kip**, : ^ ;"; * /' -- Hb £3^ &- M-. -■ -- 'i i J**" ^ 7 -¥ ._ <*>> M&f ■■v*' ,** / 1 %fc,v p sir #- *• I w .«; S #* w f 1 — "" iy EXLIBRJS |ff | ifess! i 1 ■ • ' TOUR FROM D O WJVIJVG TO AL S TON-M OOR. By THOMAS PENNANT, Esq. Hontion, Printed, at the Oriental Press, by Wilson <§• Co. FOR EDWARD HARDING, NO. 98, PALL-MALL ; AND SOLD BY WEST AND HUGHES, NO. 40, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1801. • * •. ADVERTISEMENT. The Tour from Downing to Alston Moor, now presented to the Public, was performed by Mr. Pen- nant in 1773. At the conclusion it connects with his Scots Tour, and forms an introductory Volume to that excellent Work, equally if not more interesting to the English Reader and to the Antiquary. The Author, in his Literary Life, p. 18, thus describes the Work : " The subject of part of this Journey will be found among my Posthumous Works, illustrated with Drawings by Moses Griffith. This; will take in the space from Downing to Orford ; from thence to Knowsley, Sefton, Ormskirk, Latham, and (crossing the country) to Blackburn, Whalley-abbey , Roches- ter, Mitton, Waddington-hall and Clithero, most of them in the County of Lancashire. In that of York I visited Salley - abbey , Solton-hall, Malham Coves, Settle, Giggleswick and Ingleton. I then crossed the Lune to Kirkby -Lonsdale, and visited all the parts of West- R70539 VI Westmoreland and Cumberland omitted in my printed Tours of 1769 and 177£; arid, finally, I finished this MS. Volume at Alston, near the Borders of Durham ." Notwithstanding his former determination, (see Lit. Life, p. 17,1. 19,) the Editor has the satisfaction to find, that Mr. Pennant, in the last years of his active life, not only prepared for the Press the Tour now offered, but also its Continuation by Hackfall and Fountains Abbey to Harrogate and Brambam Crags. This Work, he hopes, at some future period, to have permission to add to the List of Publications of that valuable Author. Vll ITINERARY. Downing. Rock Savage, page 1 Runcorn Canal, 2 Norton, 4 Mere, 5 Warrington, 9 Gropen-hall, 12 Thelwall, 13 Lymme, 14 Milbank, 15. LANCASHIRE. Warrington, 9 Bewsey-hall, 19 Prescot, 21 Knowsley, 21 Croxteth, 47 Sefton, 47 Lydiate Chapel, 51 Ormskirk, 5 1 Burscough Priory, 53 Latham, 54 Ley land, 61 Brindle, 63 Houghton Tower, 64 Blackburn, 65 Whalley Abbey, 68 Clithero, 75 Standen-hall, 81 Mitton, 82 Stoneyhurst, 82 Bashal, 86 Waddington-hall, 87 Waddow-hall, 89 Salebury-hall, 91 Ribchester, 92. YORKSHIRE. Salley- Abbey, 100 Bolton -hall, 103 Gisburn Park, 106 Swindon, 107 Malham, 108 Settle, 111 Giggleswick, 112 Ingleton, 114. WESTMORELAND. Kirkby- Lonsdale, 117 Kendal, 119 Kirkby-Stephen, 123 Wharton-hall, 129 Lamerside-hall, 131 Pendragon-castle, 131 Brough-castle, 136 Helbec-hall, 137 Warcop-hall, 138 Appleby, 139 Clippergate, 148 Crakenthorpe, 148 Kirkby-Thor, 149 Burwens, or Whelp- Castle, 150 Temple-Sowerby, 151 Three-brother Tree, 152 Anne Clifford's Column, 154 Brougham-castle, 155 Eimont-bridge, 158. CUMBERLAND. Penrith, 158 Eden-hall, 160 Long Meg, 164 Deadman's Stack, 166 Kirk-Oswald, 167 Croglin, I69 Brampton, 171 Naworth-eastle, 1 73 Llanercost, 177 Askerton-hall, 180 Beucastle, 180 Stapleton, 182 Netherby, 182 Long-town, 183 Burgh Marsh, 183 Corbie-castle, 186 Castle- Carrock, 186 Cumrew, 186 Carlatton, 186 •Alston-Moor town, 187- vui LIST OF PLATES. Painted Glass at Warrington Page 1 1 Orford-hall 12 Tomb of Sir Thomas Boteler 20 Edward Earl of' Derby 26 Charlotte Countess of Derby 37 Sefton Church 48 Lydiate Chapel 51 Houghton Tower 64, Sir Edward Osbadiston • • • 66 Clithero Castle 76 Ancient Altar at Ribchester 93 Kirkby-Lonsdale Bridge 117 Dr. Shaw 120 Overton Church 122 Tomb of Sir de Musgrave, &c 124 Wharton Hall 129 Philip Duke of Wharton 130 Lamerside-hall 131 Pendragon Castle 131 Brough Church 137 Appleby Castle 1 39 Tomb of the Countess of Cumberland 144. Three-brother Tree 152 Anne Clifford's Column i54 Naworth Castle 173 Llanercost Priory 1 77 Beu Castle 1 80 TOUR TO ALSTON MOOR, 1773. * * • 2 ' »» j ,>_,»" *" .Desire of health from exercise, and thirst after informa- tion respecting the almost latent curiosities of our island* induced me this year to undertake another journey, into the North of England. I left my own house the 3d of August, passed through Chester, the village of Traffbrd, and over Dunham on the hill, and from thence to Frodesham. After crossing the We-ver, and passing over a small common, I turned into a by-road, and visited, on an eminence on the left, the recent ruins of the once noble seat of Rock-Savage, built in the Rock Savage. b reign ROCK-SAVAGE— RUNCORN. reign of Queen Elizabeth, by Sir John Savage. By the marriage of Lady Elizabeth Savage, daughter and heir of Richard earl Rivers, with James earl of Barrymore, the house and estate passed into that family.. The possession was very transient; for, by the run-away mateh of his daughter, the Lady Penelope Barry, with General Cholmon- deley, they were transferred into a new race, and are now possessed by the Earl of Cholmondeley, the General's great nephew. . After the marriage, the place was neglected, and so fell; into: sad decay : a gentleman, who was born in the house, lived to draw a pack of fox-hounds through it in quest of game. H alton. From hence I made another visit to Halton Castle, to hang over, once more, the much admired prospect; from Runcorn, which I descended about a mile to Runcorn, to see the grand termination of the Duke of Bridgewaters Canal, which there falls into a broad bay of the Mersey, a little way below the pretty peninsula which juts from the Lan- cashire side, and forms the narrow gut called Rwicorn-gap. The fall into the river is sixty-nine feet, which is eased by the help of a series of five double locks and a single one ; and through these passes the commerce between the Ger- man ocean and Irish sea. This CANAL. This vast undertaking arose from a small beginning : the original intention of that useful Peer was to get an Act of Parliament, in 1 758 and 1 759, only to cut a Canal from the Canal. collieries at Worsley to Manchester, with a branch extend- ing to Cheshire. As soon as the practicability of this was ascertained, a design was formed of continuing the canal from Manchester to the Mersey, below Warrington, not only for the purpose of enlarging the sale of the JDuke's coals, but to furnish the country with a cheaper conveni- ency of water-carriage than that on the Irwal and Mersey.. After some variations in the plan, it was executed in the following manner: From . Manchester a canal is made in a direction from South-west, and from near Altringham goes almost West to the Mersey below Runcorn-gap. The length of this course is twenty-eight miles and a half, and is carried over the Mersey and Bollan. This canal is joined about four miles from Manchester, by a branch which crosses the Ir- wal, by the fine aqueduct at Barton-bridge, and extends to the great collieries at Worsley, in all about six miles : the only locks are at Runcorn. I must not leave that place without mentioning, that b 2 the 4 RUNCORN CHURCH.— NORTON. the heroine Ethelfleda, in Q 1 6, founded here a town and castle: its glory is now passed away, and only an inconsi- derable village remains. The scite of the castle is very evi- dent in a piece of land which juts into the river exactly at Runcorn Cas- the gap, and still bears the name of the Castle-rock, being TLE. protected on the water side by ledges of rocks and broken precipices: the area is of a triangular form, flat, but sur- rounded with a mound of earth, and on the land side v guarded by a ditch at least six yards wide. Nothing could be more judicious than the situation ; for it is placed at the mouth of the gap, and must have been an effectual check to the naval inroads of the Danes up the Mersey, at a pe- riod in which they were such a pest to the kingdom. Church. The church lies above the Castle-rock; its foundation was perhaps coeval : it was certainly prior to the Conquest, for Nigel, baron of Halton, bestowed it, in the reign of the Conqueror, on his brother Wolfwith, a priest. It became afterwards the property of Norton Abbey, and on the dis- solution was bestowed on Christ-church, Oxford. An abbev of Canons regular or Angus tines, was originally founded here by JVilliam the son of Nigel, in 1133; but it was Norton, removed by his son William, constable of Chester, to Nor- ton, about two miles to the East. On December 10, 1545, Richard COUNTY OF LANCASTER. 5 Richard Brook, esq. purchased the manor and its appurte- nances from the king # . The present Sir Richard Brook rebuilt the house in a very handsome style, and having the good fortune to lie in the course of the Duke of Bridge- water's canal, his grounds are most beautifully improved by the meandering of the water in view of the house. I kept along a flat and wet country, leaving on the left the fine meadows washed by the Mersey ; and went through the hamlet of Mere, a. fee of Halton, bestowed by Roger Mere. Lacy, baron of Halton, on his brother Richard, who died leprous, and was buried at Norton. I then quitted Cheshire, after crossing the bridge at Warrington, and entered the County of LANCASTER. This county, with those of Westmoreland, Cumberland, Durham and Yorkshire, formed, at the coming of the Ro- mans, the country of the Brigantes, a warlike people, and much distinguished by their queen Cartismandua, who, after betraying Caractacus to the Romans, dethroned her husband, and took his armour-bearer to her bed; which occasioned the restoration of her husband by her foreign friends, and her disgraceful abdication-^. After * Leicester, 325. f Tacit. Hist. lib. iii. LANCASHIRE.— THANES. After the Saxon invasion, this county was called Lancas- terscire, from the capital Lancaster or La?icaster, the castle, on the river Lone or Lune. The new conquerors divided it into six hundreds, altered since in names, but not in numbers. That which I enter is Derby, which takes its title from a small village, once a regal manor, and before the arrival of the Normans held (with Leyland) by Edward the Confessor. This hundred comprises the track between the Ribble and the Mersey, and was granted by the Conqueror to Roger of Poictiers, who was styled Lord of the Honour of Lancaster. This nobleman was son of Roger of Mont- gomery, and received the addition to his name on account of having a wife out of Poictiers : his reign was short, being deprived on account of his disloyalty. Thanes. The Tains, Thanes, or gentry, who held of the king dur- ing the Saxon period, in this track, held their teinland, by payment of two orte for every plough-land; by assisting in building the houses of the king, in the same manner as if they had been villeyns \ in making the fisheries, and the * inclosures and toils within the woods : if they failed, they forfeited two shillings, and after that were obliged to attend till the work, whatsoever it was, was completed. They were also to send, for one day in the month of Au- gust, men to cut the royal corn, or forfeit the like sum. 3 The THANES. The royal manor was at that period at Derby, and con- tained six berewicks or townships; had fifteen caracae*, or plough-lands, a forest two leagues long and one broad, and an aerie of hawks. If any of these Thanes committed a theft, or foresteM, i. e. obstruct any one on the way, probably for the purpose of forestalling, or committed heinfar, i. e. flies his country on the commission of any crime, or broke the peace of the king, he forfeited forty shillings. If any of them either drew blood from, or ravished a woman, or did not attend the Scyre-mote, or County-court, without a reasonable excuse, they were fined in ten shil- lings ; and if they departed out of their hundred, and did not answer at the Court, on being summoned by the Pro- positus^, or Hundred-greve, forfeited five shillings. This Court appears to me to have been the Folc-mote, where all the freemen of the kingdom were obliged to appear an- nually, with their arms, according to their degrees, for the inspection of their officer, who was to examine whether they were in good order. If * Verstegan, 233. f Doomsday-book. 8 THANES. - . If the Hundred-greve directed any of them to do his service, and he refused, a fine was imposed of four shil- lings. If any of them was desirous of quitting the royal lands, he might, on payment of forty shillings, be at liberty to go wheresoever he pleased. If any wished to succeed to the lands of his father, he must pay an acknowledgment of forty shillings; which if he refused to do, both land and money fell to the king. These Thanes were the gentry of the Saxon times. — They were not created, but received rank according to in- crease of property. At that period there were Eorls and C earls, (Earls and Churls,) Thegn and Theode?i, Thanes and IJnder-Thanes. " For, if a Churl thrived so as that he had " fully five hides of his own land, a church, a kitchen, a 44 bell-house and a gate, a seat and several offices in the I* king's hall, then was he henceforth the Thein's right 4t worthie. And if a Thein so thrive that he served the 44 king, and on his progresse ryd in his housholde ; if then, 44 he had a Thein that followed him; the which to the king's 44 five hides (ploughlands) had, and in the king's palace his 44 lord THANES. o " lord served, and thrice with his errand had gone to the " king, he might afterwards, with his fore othe his Lord's " part play at any great need. And if a Thein did thrive " so that he became an Earl, then was he afterwards wor- " thie the rights of an Earl; and if a Merchant so thrived " that he passed thrice over the wide sea by his own crafe, " he was thenceforth a Thein right worthy*." Let me add, that, so late as the reign of Henry I. they were placed in rank immediately after earls, and before the knights -j*. By this we may see a wise policy in those early times, by the great encouragement given to industry; that pro- motion attended frugal ambition, and sloth was punished with a continuance in a low and servile state. Verstegan, p. 233, translates Theyn or Thegn, as free servants. " Hence," says he, " cometh Thyen or Thiene, To serve ; and that the Prince of Wales's motto, Ich dien, I serve, is derived from the word Ik thian, d and th in our more ancient language being indifferently used," The few things omitted in my former account of War- Warrington. ringto?i, may be mentioned here. If this place had been the head of the Saxo?i hundred, Walling t on % mentioned in the c Doomsday- * Lambard's Peramb. Kent, 551. f Madox's Antiq. Exch. 1. 8. 10 WARRINGTON. Doomsday-book, the patron saint must have been changed : that ancient record makes it St. Elfin ; the present is St. Helena, noted in British story. The chief manor belonged to the king, and had dependent on it thirty-four other ma- nors, and the same number of Drenghs, i. e. vassals who held their manors by military services, and also, as Spelman conjectures, might have been the king's body-guard when called out into actual service*. This hundred was after- m wards incorporated with the present hundred of West Derby* • I say nothing of the Roman antiquity of this place ; the proofs rest on the probability of there having been a station at the head of Latcliford, the usual passage, at low water, into the town, before the building of the bridge, a place no longer fordable. It is said also, that vestiges of Roman roads have been seen in digging near the west end of the town : and of late the conjecture has been strengthened by the discovery of many hundred of brass coins in a pot at Statham near Tlielwall, many of them of Claudius ; so that it is possible here might have been a station, and, from the similarity of sound, that station might have been the Veraiins of the Ravenna chorographer. I must reject the learned Whitaker\ proof of a Roman road passing over the river at Latckford, drawn from a rampart flung up, as he * Spelman's Glossary, 184. • ... • • • • . . > . Painted Gt,a.££ at Warhingt oasr ■ ■■;•/„■ I/.,,,,-,,,, .*„ ,.„,/ mr/i WARRINGTON. 1 1 he says, by the Romans on the Warrington side, the said rampart having been thrown up by my honest friend, Mat- thew Lyon, to form an elevated retreat for sheep in time of high floods, as his worthy son, John Lyon, esq. is ready to aver upon oath if any doubts exist. But a little north- west of the church is a much stronger evidence — a mount of a circular form, with a considerable area in the middle, and a ditch round the base, which probably had on it a castellum to protect the road. Among Holme $ manuscripts, in the British Museum, I discovered some drawings relative to the church of War- rington. It represents three figures on the painted glass of the windows, probably benefactors. The first is a Ba- nister, with a shield in one hand, with his arms, a cross fleury sable in field argent. The next has a sword in one hand, a flag in the other ; which, by the arms, shew him to be a Holland, a once potent family in this county*. Round his head is a baronial fillet, which makes it probable that this personage was designed for Robert Holland, who was sum- moned to Parliament in the reign of Edward II. The third is his unfortunate master, Thomas earl of Lancaster, to whom he proved so treacherous : this Earl has likewise a flag. All are armed in mail, clothed with long robes. c 2 During « Tour Scotl. 1773, Part 1, 19. 12 GROPEN-HALL. During my stay at Orford, I made an excursion across Warrington-bridge into Cheshire.. At the foot, in a suburb called Latchford, is now building a good street, and church Gropen-hall. dependent on Gropen-halL This beginning might possibly have grown into a new town, had it not been checked by the evil times. I passed over Gropen-hall, and Latchford heaths, re- cently inclosed, and now made worth 31. the Cheshire acre. On the right is Gropen-hall church, dedicated to St. Wilfrid, a rectory in the gift of the Rev. Edmund Taylor ', both patron and incumbent; but the advowson is upon sale. This manor, and several others, was held, after the Con- quest, by Osborn Fit%-Tezzo?i, bestowed on him by Hugh hupus. This Osborn was ancestor of the Boydels, of Dod- dleston, whose posterity held it for some centuries. In 1312, the sixth of Edward II. the king granted to William Boydel, free warren in his lands of Doddleston and this pa- rish. His grand-daughters, co-heiresses, conveyed it to Owen Voel and Sir John Daniel; but How el ap Owen released his share to Sir John. From him it passed, in the female line, in moieties, to several other families, which I decline men- tioning, in pursuance of my rule to avoid a minute detail of parochial antiquities. 2 AJittle A M i -* ■i - *> 4: 9, S s "3 { p ■3 H ;> -« % k "to « % 3 c N 4 ;i + - • • ♦ ... ■ • ' * * * \ THELWALL. 13 A little farther is the hamlet of Thelwall, noted in Saxon Thelwall. days for the town built by Edward the elder, in Q20 # , and fortified with a precinct made of stakes^, from which it took its name; Thell signifying a stake, and wall its pre- sent meaning. This he garrisoned, and committed to the custody of his knights, as a security to his new conquests. Roger of Poictiers gave the fishery, on the Lancashire* side of the Mersey, to the Abbot of Shrewsbury ', in the reign of Henry I. That on the Cheshire side was bestowed by William, third baron of Halton, on the Prior of Norton. — This place was of the fee of the Honour of Halton : the same William gave one-third of it. to the Abbey of Salop, with all its appurtenances. The other two-thirds were granted in the reign of Hen- ry III. by Edmund Lacy baron of Halton, to Galfrid de Dutton ancestor of IVarburton of Arley, and also all the land he had of the Abbey of Evesham in Thelwall, by the service of yielding annually a pair of gloves, lined with the fur of a stag, on Michaelmas-day. After passing through various successions, it was purchased, in 1622, by Robert Pickering counsellor at law, and now belongs to Henry Pickering esq. one of his descendants. Near the house is a small * Saxon Chr. 110. f Polychron. ccxxxiii. 14 LIMME. a small ruinous chapel, which, with many others in this diocese, are said never to have been consecrated; were ori- ginally only domestic, and have often fallen into disuse*. In this township are very considerable powder-mills. The little town of himme is a relief to the dull unvaried flat from Warrington to this place, being seated on a pretty inequality of sand-stone, and commanding a picturesque view down a dell. The living is a rectory dedicated to St. Mary, and under the patronage of Sir Peter Warburton and Egerto?i Leigh esq. — each presents a minister, who serve alternately, Sunday by Sunday. This division has existed ever since the days of the Conqueror, when Gilbert Venables, baron of Kinderton, had one half of the town, held before by one TTfoiet ; and Osborn, son of Tezzon, the other. They also divided the patronage of the church, which, served by a Presbyter, existed in the time of the Confessor. From whence I descended to a flat congenial with the former, and reached Warburton, a village and chapel. The first, on the Conquest, divided between William Fitz-Nigel baron of Halton, and Osborn son of Tezzon. About the time of Richard I. Adam, younger son of Hugh Dutto7i, of * Ecton, 571. WARBURTON.— MILL-BANK. 1 5 of Dutton, became possessed of the whole; part in right of his wife, part by the gift of John baron of Halton. This Adam was ancestor of the Warburtons of Arley. Peter, a descendant of his, residing here in the reign of Edward II. assumed the name of the place, which they have retained to this day. From hence I rode along the steep sandy banks of the Mersey, and passed some agreeable hours with my worthy friend John Lyon esq. at his neat house, Mill- bank, near Hollin s-ferry , a horse passage into the county of Lancaster. * Near the house are two mills; one for the manufacture of paper, the other for slitting and rolling of iron. The Mersey is by no means a pleasing water, running usually far beneath its banks. It takes its rise in the very extremity of Cheshire, near the borders of Yorkshire, and is, as the name imports, the march or boundary between the kingdoms of Northumberland and Mercia, and divides the counties of Lancashire and Cheshire-, notwithstanding, it does not take the name of Mersey till it has passed Stock- port, above which it is called the Tame. It flows useless for navigation till it reaches the Irwal, five miles below Manchester, when both streams receive artificial 10 THE MERSEY. artificial depth by the help of nine locks between that town . and Warrington. They were made navigable under pow- ers of an Act of Parliament obtained in 1 720, when it was undertaken successfully by several adventurers. The na- vigation is never interrupted by droughts, as it can be sup- plied with water between lock and lock, by flushing or let- ing off back-water reserved for that purpose : floods and frost often render it unnavigable. It carries vessels of thirty-five to forty tons burden; and such is the increase of manufactures at Manchester, there are more . employed than ever, notwithstanding the completion of the Duke of Bridgewaters Canal to that town. But the public receives great benefit, not only by the choice of conveyance, but by the fall of the freight from ten shillings to six shillings and eight-pence a ton On the Mersey. The fish of this river are salmon, smelts, a few trout, pike, perch, bream, chub, dace, graining, gudgeons, sticklebacks, lampries, lamperns, and eels. After crossing the river I resumed my journey and re- turned through Warrington: at the western end of the town passed by Bank, the seat of Thomas Patten esq. a new house raised entirely upon copper. The foundations are the stags from the adjacent furnaces, the property of that SANKEY CANAL. 1 7 that gentleman, cast in moulds, into squares for the pur- pose. About a mile and a half farther I crossed Sankey Brook Navigation; which, from its junction with the Mersey, ex- tends near twelve miles into the country. Originally the only water inlet was a brook, which at spring-tides ad- mitted small vessels about half a mile from the mouth to a warehouse at Sankey -bridges, which is still in use. But far the greater number of vessels pass into the river by a new canal from the bridges, a mile and a half westward to Fidler s-ferry , the common passage over the estuary into Cheshire. The present useful canal was formed in consequence of an Act passed in 17^5, empowering certain undertakers to make the Sankey stream navigable : or, to speak with more precision, to cut a canal near that inconsiderable rivulet, and to render it fit for all the purposes of inland naviga- tion. This is the most ancient we have in our island, that runs distinct from the natural beds of other rivers, since the revival of these great works; for we must not forget the Roman Foss-dike, and the opening of it again in the time of Henry II. d The 18 SANKEY CANAL. The present state of this canal is as follows: — It runs entirely separate from Sankey-brook, except in one place, where it crosses, and for a small space mixes with it. Its length from Fidler's-ferry to a place where it separates into three branches, is nine miles and a quarter: from thence it is carried to Penny '-bridge and Gerard's --bridge, and there terminates; but from Boardman s-bridge it extends two thousand yards, making the whole distance from the Mersey eleven miles three-quarters. In that course there are eight single and two double locks, and the fall is about sixty feet. The chief article carried on it is coal, of which, in the year 177U 45,568 tons were conveyed to Liverpool; and to Warrington, Northwich and other places, 44,152 tons. There are besides slates and corn brought down; and deal, paving, and lime-stones (purloined from the coast of North Wales), carried up. Near the northern end of the canal is seated the im- portant manufacture of plate glass, lately introduced into this kingdom, and which rivals that of the famous work in the Rue de St. Antoine at Paris. Let us acknowledge that we owe the success to some capital persons seduced from thence : this seems to be among all nations a reciprocation of this species of artifice. At Ravenhead, not remote from 3 the SANKEY CANAL.— BEWSEY-HALL. 1 9 the former, much of the copper ore from the vast mine of Paris mountain is smelted, and, when fused, brought down again by the same channel, and conveyed in a metallic form to Holywell, and other battering works, the property of the great companies. It is the plenty of coal which first tempted them to settle in those parts. From the year 1758 to the present time three hundred and seventeen vessels of about thirty-four or thirty -five tons have navigated upon the canal: these in general belong to private persons. The highest spring-tides rise within a foot of the level of the mouth of the canal or the lowest lock. Loaded vessels are generally neaped about three days; but the empty can pass to and from the river every tide. I am the more full in my account of this canal, as it seems as yet unnoticed, in common with the general his- tory of this important county. Liverpool alone has as yet had its historian. About half a mile north of Sanhey bridges stand the re- mains of Bewsey-hall, the seat of the ancient family of the Bewsey-hall. Botelers. Robert, the first who assumed the name, took it from his office of Butler to Hanulf de Gernons or Mes- clunes earl of Chester, in 1 120. He had large possessions in this county, and his descendants were great benefactors n 2 to 20 ,i BEWSEY-HALL. to the town of Warrington. Sir Thomas, I believe the last of the name, was, with his Lady, murdered in this house, by assassins, who in the night crossed the moat in leathern boats, or coracles, to perpetrate this villainy. The unfor- tunate pair lie represented magnificently in alabaster in the parish church; and the sides of the tomb are finely orna- mented with various saintly figures. This seat passed after to the Irelands, the Athertons, and lastly to the Gwillims, who now possess the estate ; the moat and part of the house still remain. In the house is a singular picture on board, of an assemblage of the Florent'me wits and poets, from Guido Cavalcanti, who died in 1 300, to Marsilius Ficinus, who died in 14QQ. Dante is placed sitting with a book in his uplifted hand, as if reading to Cavalcanti, who stands behind. Petrarch stands leaning forward, as if applying to Dante ; is dressed in a white cap, in a blue dress over his shoulders, and a white vest: behind him is Boccace, represented bald: all these with laureated heads. Behind them are Angelus Poliiianus in a blue cap, and Ficinus in a red gown — a group of illus- trious not to be paralleled in the same space in scarcely any country. Bold-hall. On the right of the road is Bold-hall, the seat of the 4 ancient p H H o w H »i B X o i I i. .3 ..... ■ ■ • - PRESCOT. 21 ancient family of the Bolds, now extinct in the male line. The parish of Prescot commences at Sankey bridges: Prescot. eight miles farther is the town, seated on a hill, and well- built and flourishing ; the intervening country flat, and full of hedge-rows ; and the whole parish rich in collieries. The town abounds in manufacturers of certain branches of hard-ware, particularly the best and almost all the watch- movements used in E?igland, and the best files in Europe. Here is, besides, a manufacture of coarse earthen mugs, and of late another of sail-cloth. The church is large, and has in it an organ, procured from the cathedral of St. Asaph when the new one was erected. Against an outside wall is an upright figure, in stone, of John Ogle of Prescot-hall, with beard and whis- kers, in a short jacket and great trunk breeches ; with the motto, Veritas vincit. About a mile and a half from Prescot lies Knowsley, the Knowsley. residence of the Earls of Derby, seated in a park high and much exposed to the fury of the west winds; for, distant as this place is from the sea, the effect is visible in the shorn form of the trees. This was a manor appertaining to 22 KNOWSLEY. to Latham, and, in the time of Edward II. was held from the lordship of Wydenesse, in this county, an appurtenance to the Honour of Halton, by Robert de Latham, who paid one knight's fee and a relief of five pounds, the money paid by a ward to his superior on coming of age. The house consists of two parts, joining to each other at right angles ; the more ancient is of stone, in which are two small round towers. This was built by Thomas first earl of Derby, for the reception of his son-in-law Henry VII. ; the other part, which is of brick, by the late and present Earls. Portraits. I surveyed with great pleasure the numerous portraits of this illustrious family, an ancient race, long uncontaminated by vice or folly. The late venerable Peer, Edward earl of Derby, supported the dignity of his family ; aged as he was, there was not a person in his neighbourhood but wished that his years could be doubled. The country was de- prived of this worthy Peer, at the age of 87, on Feb. 23, 177^, and his Countess followed him within two days. The first portrait is the head of Thomas Lord Stanley, afterwards Earl of Derby, dressed in black, with the George in a bonnet, small ruff, and with a white wand. This nobleman KNOWSLEY. 23 nobleman was an active character in the reigns of Edward IV. Richard HI. and Henry VII., and a gallant soldier from his earliest days. He first distinguished himself at the siege of Berwick, under Richard then duke of Gloucester, which he took by storm: his fidelity to Edward, and af- terwards to his children, procured him the hatred of the Usurper. He narrowly escaped death by assassination at the Council Board, at the instant his friend Hastings was dragged from it to execution. It is pretended that the last might have avoided his fate, had he attended to a dream of Stanley, that a Boar had gored them both, ' alluding to the crest or cognizance of Gloucester. On the invasion of Richmond, he was directed to raise his dependents in sup- port of Richard, who, distrusting his fidelity, obliged him to leave his son George as a hostage. At the battle of Bosworth he joined Henry; his son escaped the threatened danger, and he had the honour of crowning the Earl with the coronet torn from the brows of the slain tyrant. The succeeding monarch created him Earl of Derby, and accumulated on him merited honours. He died in 1504, and was buried at Burs cough, beneath a tomb pro- vided by himself; with his own figure, and that of his two wives. His second consort, Margaret countess of Richmond, is repre- 24 KNOWSLEY. represented in a religious habit, praying : the Earl was her third husband. The good Lady, satiated with the vain pleasures of this life, requested and obtained of her spouse a license of chastity, which she vowed according to form in presence of Bishop Fisher-, after which, she led a life of mortification, and wore girdles and shifts of hair, even to the dilacerating of her tender skin. Her works of piety were considerable, among which may be reckoned the founding of St. John's College in Cambridge. She dedicated her leisure hours to translations of religious books ; and produced the " Forthe boke of the followinge Jesn Chryste, and of the Contepning of the World, and the Mirroure of Goldefor the sinfull Soule — emprynted by Pynson" a very rare book, with suitable figures. She was daughter to John Beaufort duke of Somerset : was first married to Edmund earl of Richmond, uterine brother to Henry VI. and afterwards to to Sir Henry Stafford, second son to Humphrey duke of Buck- ingham. She wavered in her first choice — irresolute whe- ther she should take Edmund, or the son of De la Pole duke of Suffolk. In this distress, by advice of an old lady, she applied to St. Nicholas, Patron of Virgins, who appeared to her, and decided in favour of the former. By him she had Henry VII. She died June 2Q, 150Q, and was buried beneath a most beautiful monument in the Chapel of her son Henry VII. in Westminster Abbey. The KNOWSLEY. 25 The portrait of his son George is preserved here, dressed George, Lord like the Earl, with the Order of the Garter, and ermine robing to his gown. He died in the life of his father; poisoned through jealousy at a banquet, and was interred in St. Botolph's Church, London. His talents were em- ployed both in the cabinet and the field : he was appointed Commissioner to treat with the Scots in the reign of Ed- ward, and in, that of Henry was very instrumental in the overthrow of the Yorkists in the conclusive battle of Stoke. His son, a second Thomas, is placed near him, habited Thomas, se- t condEarlof like the former, with a white wand, and with the addition derby. of red feathers to his bonnet. His chief deeds were, being surety in 50,0001. for the performance of the marriage contract between Mary, third daughter of Henry VII, and the Prince of Spain, afterwards Charles V. being present at the battle of the Spurs with Henry VIII. and being one of the Peers who sat on the trial of the ill-fated Stafford duke of Buckingham. His successor Edward, third Earl, is represented in a Edward, third bonnet and furred gown, painted by Holbein. I cannot BY learn who was the artist to whom we owe the three pre- ceding. It is probable that the two first were the work of e the 2(3 KNOWSLEY. the elder Holbein, the supposed uncle* to the other, who painted in E?igland in the reign of Henry VII. This Earl was the greatest character of his time, and ■ . lived in four reigns with distinguished honour, and loyalty to his Sovereigns ; but, what is far more meritorious, useful to all whom Providence had placed under his immediate protection. " His greatness," says Lloyd, " supported his goodness; and his goodness, his greatness -f\" He is the finest example of the ancient independent English noble- men that remains on record. He lived among his people ready to sacrifice his life in the cause of his Prince, when popular tempests arose; not to insult him with imperti- nence, faction and ingratitude, like the independents of later days. " His house was a college of discipline, not " the receptacle of buffoons, gamesters and profligates. — " It was a palace for entertainment; his servants being so " many young gentlemen trained up to govern themselves " by observing him ; who knew their master, and under- " stood themselves:}:." As he lived, so he died, among his people at Latham, ia * Mr. Walpok's Anecd. Painting, 1. 46. t Lloyd's State Worthies, 1. 433. % Ibid. 1 "" ' ' ' E dwa«d Earl of Derby "y ■ '"" » » * * . 4 * _ KNOWSLEY. 27 in October 1574 : his funeral was celebrated with uncom- mon splendour. I leave the reader to consult Collins* for the description; but must, for my own, as well as his en- tertainment, transcribe from honest Stow^ the amiable character that once animated the poor remains to whom these funebrious respects were paid. " His life and death," says the historian, " deserving " commendation, and craving memory to be .mitated, was *' such as followeth. His fidelity unto two kings and *' two queens, in dangerous times, and great rebellions, in " which time, and always as cause served, he was Lieuie- " nant of Lancashire and Cheshire-, and lately offered " 10,000 men unto the Queen's Majesty, of his own *' charge, for the suppression of the last rebellion. His " godly disposition to his tenants, never forcing any service " at their hands, but due payment of their rent. His li- *' berality to strangers, and such as shewed themselves " grateful to him; his famous house-keeping, and eleven " score in checkroll, never discontinuing the space of " twelve years. His feeding, especially of aged persons, " twice a day, three score and odd; besides all comers ** thrice a week appointed for his dealing days; and every " Good Friday, these thirty-five years, one with another, e 2 " two * Peerage 11. 459. t Annates, 6/3. 28 KNOWSLEY. two thousand seven hundred, with meat, drink, money, and money's worth. There was never a gentleman, or other, that waited in his service, but had allowance from him, to have as well wages as otherwise for horse and man. His yearly portion, for the expences of his house, 40001. His cunning in setting bones disjointed or broken, his surgery, and desire to help the poor; his de- livery of the George and Seal to the Lord Strange, with exhortation that he might keep it so unspotted in fidelity to his Prince as he had ; and his joy that he died in the Queen's favour. His joyful parting this world; his taking leave of all his servants, by shaking of hands ; and his re^ membrance to the last day." Henry, fourth Earlof Derby. To this nobleman succeeded his son Henry. He is painted also on wood, in a bonnet, with the George pen- dant from a gold chain. He had the honour of the em- bassy to invest Henry III. of France with the Order of the Garter, and the mortification of being appointed one of the Judges of Mary Stuart. He married three wives, got three natural children, and died in the year 1593. Ferdinand, His son Ferdinand appears on canvas in black, with long fifth Earlof Derby. hair, and a turn-over. This Earl was cut off, in the bloom of life, by poison, as supposed in revenge for bringing to justice KNOWSLEY. 29 justice one Richard Hesket, agent to the Jesuits. This man had in vain endeavoured to persuade his Lordship to revolt against- Elizabeth, and to claim the crown in right of his great grandmother Mary, daughter to Henry VII. — Ferdinand not only refused to listen to his offer of supplies of men and money ; but, unterrified with his menaces of revenge, caused him to be apprehended. In four months the miscreant's threats seemed to have taken effect; the Earl was seized with most horrible symptoms, and died, with all the appearance of falling a victim to poison, on April 16, 15Q4. His Master of the Horse fled as soon as his Lord began to sicken. In order to divert suspicion of the true cause of his death, the contriver of it left in his chamber a waxen image with hair of the same colour with the Earl's thrust into its belly. This was to encourage a popular superstition of the age, that his end was owing to witchcraft*. No notion was more common than that the dealers * Cambden's Annals of Elizabeth, years 1593, 1594; or Kennet, ri. 574, 580. The account inserted in the Appendix taken out of Lord Somers's- Tracts will serve to shew the wild notions of that age. " An. Reg. Eliz. 36, 1594, the 16th of April, Ferdlnando earl of Derby deceased at Latham, whose strange sickness and death, gathered by those who were present with him at the time thereof, was such as followeth: — His apparent diseases were, vomiting of sower or rustie matter with blood, the yellow jaundies, melting of his fat, swelling and hardness of his spleen, a 30 KNOWSLEY. dealers in that art could cause a sympathy between a waxen image placed before a fire, and the body of any person on whom they wished to wreak their malice. In proportion as the former melted, so would the constitution of the ob- ject aimed at dissolve away. This species of incantation is a vehement hickcough, and, four days before he died, stopping of his water. The causes of all his diseases were thought by the physicians to be partly a surfeit, and partly a most violent distempering himself with vehement exercise taken four days together in the Easter-week. " The 5th of April, about six o'clock at night, he fell sick at Luoxvsby, where he vomited thrice. 1 ' The 6th. he returned to Latham, and feeling his health to sink more and more, sent to Chester for a doctor of physick. " The 7th, before the coming of the doctor, he had cast seven times; the colour of his vomits like to sooty or rusty iron, the substance very gross and fattie, the quantity about seven pints, the smell not without offence ; his waters were, in colour, smell and substance, not unlike his vo- mits. The same night he took a glyster to draw the course of the humours downward, which wrought five times and gave some ease. " The 8th he took a gentle infusion of rhubarb and manna in a draught of chicken broth, which wrought very well nine times. '■' The .9th, because of his continual bleeding by mouth with his vomits, he was instantly intreated to be let blood, to divert and stay the course thereof, but he could by no means be perswaded thereunto, wherefore that day only fomentations and oils and plasters were outwardly applied to stay and comfort his stomach. *' The 10th he took one other glyster, which wrought well six times. "The 11th he took one other purge, which wrought with great ease nine times upon the humours. The same night he took a little diascor- 3 dium, KNOWSLEY. 31 is extremely ancient, as old at least as the days of Theocri- tus ; with this difference — our Sorcerers made use of the little image as an instrument of revenge — the Sicilian Fair, to recall the affections of their lovers. dium, with the syrup of lemons and scabious water, which somewhat stayed his stomach and gave him some rest. " The 12th, because his vomiting continued still, he was moved to take a vomit, that thereby the bottom of his stomach migbt be scoured and cleansed from so vile and loathsome matter wherewith he was troubled, but by no perswasion would he yield thereunto ; notwithstanding the same day he took a medicine to procure sweat, but prevailed not. The very same night his water stopp'd upon a sudden, to the astonishment of all. " The 13th all means were offered to provoke water, as glyster, drinks, plasters, fomentations, oils, pultises, stirrings ; but nothing happily suc- ceeded. " The 14th and 15th was used an instrument called a catheter, which being conveyed into his bladder was strongly sucked by the surgeon ; but no water followed. " The 16th, about five o'clock at night, he most devoutly yielded his soul to God. ' ' In all the time of his sickness he often took Bezoar stone and Uni- corn's horn: his pulse were very good, his strength indifferent; the num- ber of vomits were 52, and of his stools 29 J his physicians were Dr. Canon, Dr. Joyner, Dr. Bate, and Dr. Case. " A true Report of such Reasons and Conjectures as caused many Learned Men to suppose him to be bewitched. •' The first of April, before his Honour fell sick, a woman offered unto him a supplication or petition, wherein her request was, that it would please him 32 KNOWSLEY. " fig tvtov rov Kctgov, tyca vvv fioupovi txku, " Of TxttoiP vu £f>ooTog o Mvvtiiog ctVTixa, AsXp/f." * V As melts this waxen form by fire defaced, " So in love's flames may Myndian Delphis waste !" William, His brother William succeeded this unfortunate Peer. — sixth Earl, of Derby. He him to give or assign her a dwelling-place near unto himself, that she might from time to time reveal unto him such things with speed which God revealed unto her for his good. This petition was thought vain, therefore refused. " On the 4th of April he dreamed that his Lady was most dangerously sick to death ; and in his sleep being sore troubled therewith, he wept, sud- denly cried out, started from his bed, called for help, sought about the chamber betwixt sleeping and waking, but being fully awaked, was com- forted because he found her well. Here we omit strange dreams or di- vinations of divers great men, which happened before or about the time of his sickness. ' ' On the 5th of April, in his chamber at Kronstey, about six o'clock at night, there appeared suddenly a tall man with a ghastly and threatening- countenance, who twice or thrice seemed to cross him as he was passing through the chamber ; and when he came to the same part of the chamber where this shadow appeared, he presently fell sick, and there vomited thrice. And yet Goborne, one of his secretaries attending then upon him, saAy nothing, which more amazed him. The same night he dreamed he was in fighting twice or thrice stabbed to the heart, also wounded in many other places of his body. " The 10th of April, about midnight, was found in his bed-chamber, by one master Halsall, an image of wax with hair, like unto the hair of his Honour's * Idyll, KNOWSLEY. 33 He is represented here at full length, in a high-crowned hat, and in the dress of the time of James I. His death in 1 (342 made way for his illustrious son Ja?nes, the seventh James, seventh Earl of Derby. Earl, distinguished by his hospitality, courage, loyalty, and tragical end. He was so esteemed in his country, that, when Honour's head, twisted through the belly thereof, from the navel to the secrets. This image was spotted, as master Halsall reported unto master Smyth, one of his secretaries, a day before any pain grew, and spots ap- peared on his sides and belly. This image was hastily cast into the fire by Mr. Halsall before it was viewed, because he thought, by burning there- of, as he said, he should relieve his Lord from witchcraft, and burn the witch who so much tormented his Lord ; but it fell out contrary to his love and affection, for, after the melting thereof, he more and more declined. "The 12th of April, owe Jane, a witch, demanded of Mr. Goborne, Avhe- therhis Honour felt no pain in his lower parts, and whether he made water as yet or no ? and at that very time his water utterly stopped, and so re- mained till he died. " Sir Edward Filton, who with other Justices examined certain witches, reporteth, that one of them being bidden to say the Lord's Prayer, said it well; but being conjured in the name of Jesus, that if she had bewitched his Honour she should be able to say the same, she never could repeat that petition, Forgive us our trespasses ! no, not although it was repeated unto her. " A homely woman, about the age of fifty, was found mumbling in. a corner of his Honour's chamber; but what, God knoweth. " This wise woman (as they termed her) seemed often to ease his Honour both of his vomiting and hickcough ; but so it fell out, which was strange, that when so long as he was eased the woman herself was troubled most vehemently in the same manner, the matter which she vomited being like f also 34 KNOWSLEY. -when he was directed, in 1042, to assemble his friends in -the county of Lancaster, he had an appearance, on three heaths near Bury, Ormskirk, and Presto?i, of twenty thou- sand men on each. At this time it was resolved to erect the royal standard at Warrington : by a fatal change of councils, however, the place was altered to that of Nottingham, and the opportunity lost of benefiting by the great interest of this family. The Earl was afterwards sent back to raise his dependents: but in the interim the tide of loyalty turned; numbers determined to stand neuter, and others embraced the opposite party. Still he raised three regi- ments also unto that which passed from him. But at last, when this woman was found tempering and blessing (after her manner) the juice of certain herbs, her pot, wherein she strained the juice, was tumbled down by the same doc- tor, she rated out of the chamber, notwithstanding she did still say that she would not cease to ease him, although she could not perfectly help him, because he was so strangely bewitched. All physic wrought very well, yet had he none or little ease thereby ; his diseases were many, and his vomits with stopping his water grievous, yet ever his pulse remained as good and perfect as ever it did in time of his best health, till one quarter of an hour before he died. " He himself, in all the time of his sickness, cried out that the doctors laboured in vain, because he was certainly bewitched. He fell twice into a trance, not able to move hand, head or foot, when he would have taken physic to do him good. In the end he cried out against all witches and witchcraft, reposing his only hope of salvation upon the merits of Christ Jesus his saviour. << One KNOWSLEY. 35 merits of foot, and three troops of horse, at his own expence, and delivered them to his Majesty, to be commanded as he thought proper. He returned to the county, then possessed by the enemy, took hancaster and Preston by storm, and fortified his house at Latham, which afterwards found such long employ, under his brave Countess, to the Parliament Army. His valour never shone so bright as at his defeat in Wigan-lane, in his attempt, in 1 65 1, to restore the son of his murdered Sovereign ; for with only six hundred horse he maintained a fight of two hours against three thousand troops led on by the determined hilhirne. Misfortune seemed to exalt his eloquence, as well as his courage. — When he was forced to take refuge in the Isle of Man, in l64Q, with what animated disdain did he return an answer to Iretoii's proposal for the surrender! I will again repeat f 2 his " One excellent speech amongst many cannot be omitted in the time of his sickness : — The day before he departed, at which time he desired one of his doctors, whom he especially loved, to perswade him no longer to live; because, saith he, although out of thy love thou wouldst stir up hopes of life, and dost employ all thy wit, art and travel to that end ; yet, knowing for a certainty that I must now die, I pray thee cease, for I am resolved presently to die, and to take with me only one part of my arms, I mean the eagle's wings, so will I fly swiftly into the bosom of Christ my only saviour ; and with that he sent for his Lady, and gave her his last farewell, desiring her to take away and love his doctor, and also to give him some jewel with his arms and name, that he might be remembered ; Avhich thing immediately after his death was most honourably performed. His spiritual physicians were, the Bishop of Chester, and Mr. Lee his chaplain." 30 KNOWSLEY. his gallant reply; for, as Mr. Walpole has before remarked, such a model of brave natural eloquence cannot be thought tedious. \ 44 I received your letter with indignation, and with scorn 44 I return you this answer — That I cannot but wonder ** whence you should gather any hopes from me, that I " should (like you) prove treacherous to my Sovereign; 44 since you cannot be insensible of my former actings in " his late Majesty's service, from which principle of loyalty 44 I am no way departed. " I scorn your proffers ; I disdain your favours ; I abhor 44 your treasons; and am so far from delivering this island 44 to your advantage, that I will keep it to the utmost of 44 my power to your destruction. 44 Take this final answer, and forbear any further solici- 44 tations; for, if you trouble me with any more messages 44 upon this occasion, I will burn the paper and hang the 44 bearer. 44 This is the immutable resolution, and shall be the 44 undoubted practice of him who accounts it the chiefest 44 glory to be 44 His Majesty's most loyal 44 and obedient Subject, 44 Derby." Castle-Town, July 12, 16-19. The * .. . 1 4 • »!»• • ••• ••. .. . ■ • • ••• . . - . Charlotte. Counters of Derby From, art Or'i'&vna.l JPi-c£i4-r*ie a.t JCnoussle^ e y 2*x*& /un< / t407 by JEstw Jfa.rt£iny *& JPall ^TaZI KNOWSLEY, 37 The treatment he met with, after he was taken at the battle of Worcester, was such as might be expected from a vindictive, ungenerous enemy; with whom his very virtues were strong pleas against mercy. He was taken under promise of quarter, yet was carried before a court-martial at Chester, who not only condemned him to death, regard- less of the officer's honour to whom he surrendered, but had even the barbarity to send him to Bolton, a town of his own, in order to be executed; where he fell with the piety of a Christian, and the firmness of a Soldier. The likeness of his congenial Lady, the celebrated Char- His Countess. lotte de la Tremouille, is preserved here — a half length sit- ting, dressed in black, with a white kerchief on her head, and a long black veil. She is here represented in advanced age: but there is a Head of her painted much younger; the dress white, with a string of pearls over her shoulders. This heroine was the daughter of Claude de la Tremouille, duke and peer of France, by his duchess, daughter to Wll- Ham prince of Orange, founder of the Dutch Republic. — She proved herself worthy of her illustrious parents,- by a series of gallant actions. Her defence of Latham-house, m 1044, from February 28th to May the 2/th, may be ranked amongst the bravest actions of those unhappy times. She 6 formed 38 KNOWSLEY. formed her garrison, appointed her officers, and herself commanded in chief during the whole siege, till it was raised by her loyal Lord, by the defeat of the enemy at Bolt o?i. A bomb fell into the room where she and her children were at dinner, and burst without doing any in- . jury. She immediately ordered a sally, beat the foes from their trenches, and took the mortar that was so nearly working her destruction. In the course of the siege, she received a summons to surrender. She caught the spirit of her husband : " Tell, fellow," says she, " the insolent re- u bel who sent you, that if he presumes to send another " summons within these walls, I will cause the messenger " to be hanged up at the gates." This is commemorated by a picture on the staircase, representing her Ladyship sitting with the letter in her hand, delivering to a fanatical drummer the gallant answer: the last is blind-folded, and dressed in red. An officer of the garrison, in blue, stands by, admiring the heroism of his brave mistress. Her Lady- ship retired afterwards to the Earl in the Isle of Man, and continued there till after his unfortunate end, when she was betrayed and imprisoned, and reduced to such distress as to live on the alms of the impoverished royalists till the Restoration, which she survived four years. Her Mother. The portrait of her mother, Charlotte B?~abantine de Nassau, KNOWSLEY. 39 Nassau, youngest daughter to William I. prince of Orange; the dress black, and her ruff of an enormous size. His son Charles was successor to his title and loyalty. — Charles, He joined Sir George Booth and other insurgents in 165C). Derby On the defeat of that enterprize, he was taken prisoner, and confined, till the following year gave freedom, but not con- tent, to the long-depressed royalists. On the Restoration, the Lords attempted to do justice to those who had been deprived of their fortunes by the usurping powers. They formed a private bill for the purpose of restoring this loyal Peer to those estates which he had lost: this was strongly opposed, and at length laid aside, without ever coming to a second reading # . The King was innocent of the rejec- tion, for it never came before him for his assent ; yet an ill- judged resentment of the son of this noble Earl induced him to cause this calumniating inscription to be placed over one of the doors of Knowsley : " James earl of Derby, lord of Man and the Isles, and '-' grandson of James earl of Derby, and of Charlotte daugh- " ter of Claude duke de la Tremouille, whose husband, " James, was beheaded at Bolton, 15th October 1052, for " strenuously adhering to Charles II. who refused a Bill " passed * See Tour in Wales, 95. Drakes Parliam. Hist, xxiii. 50, 53. I ( 40 KNOWSLEY. ** passed unanimously by both Houses of Parliament, for " restoring to the family the estate lost by the family for " their loyalty." We may allow the family to be a little out of humour with its misfortunes ; for William earl of Derby used to say, that he never passed by any estate of his in Yorkshire, Westmoreland, Cumberland, Warwickshire, Lancashire, Che- shire, or Wales, but he saw a greater near it lost by the fidelity of his ancestor to the royal cause. Here is a portrait, on wood, of Henry of Cross-hall and Bickerstajf- — a sour figure in a ruff and bonnet. The date is 1582, his age 67. This gentleman was son to Sir James Stanley, second son of George lord Strange, and took his addition from his marriage with Mary, sole heiress of Peter Stanley of Bickerstajf, whose figure is also preserved here, dressed in a black cap, small ruff, and enriched with gold chains. From them the present worthy Earl derives his descent. A very bad painting by Hamlet Winstanley, represents the late worthy Earl, his Lady, and their eight children. — There is also a portrait of his son, the late Lord Strange, by Hudson, dressed by the painter injudiciously half mo- dern KNOWSLEY. 4 1 dern Fandyek. This useful Nobleman gave his active life to Parliamentary business, and died, regretted by his coun- try, June 1, 1771 • On the stair-case is a gigantic figure of John Middleton, commonly called the Child of Hale, who was born in 1578, and buried in 1628, at Hale, in this neighbourhood. A picture is preserved of him at Hale-hall; another in the Museum at Oxford; but we learn no more of him than that his height was eight feet. Besides the portraits, here is preserved a most capital collection of pictures, by the greatest masters. The ra- pidity with which I was hurried through the house prevents me from giving so full an account of them as they deserve. I was extremely struck with a Holy Family, by Titian, full of the great tenderness of the parents and the sweet inno- cency of the children. A most admirable picture of the Feast of Belshazzar, by Rembrandt; the horror of the king, and the fears of his luxurious attendants at the appearance of the hand-writing, are expressed in the most affecting manner. • The Roman Augur\ a fine piece, by Sahator Rosa. Banditti, by the same master; the rocky scenery and trees in his best manner. g Two 12 KNOWSLEY. Two most curious and beautiful studies of his, stained on wood : one is the History of the Good Samaritan ; the other the Temptation of our Saviour in the Wilderness. It is sin- gular that a good Catholic should represent the Devil in the habit of a monk. The oaks very magnificent. Hagar and Ishmael with the Angela by the same. The Book with Seven Seals ; a subject taken from the Revelations. The Almighty, the Lamb, Angels, Altars and People, placed on the clouds, form this very singular com- position. The Angel driving Adam and Eve out of Paradise, by Denis Calvart, a Flemish painter, but by travel improved into the best manner of the Italian school. Hunting the Wild Boar, a joint work of Rubens and Sny- ders. These two great painters often worked in conjunc- tion, each being sensible of their respective excellencies. The Arts inquiring of the Genius of Rome the Cause of their Decline. The latter points to the clouds, where are sitting, Time, Famine, and War. A Flight into Egypt — The Holy Family on the point of taking boat ; numbers of Angels floating in the air : by Luca Jordano. Another by Ponte Bassano, and a third by Castiglione, with abundance of furniture, pots, .and dead game lying on the ground. 6 A KNOWSLEY. 43 A large Piece of Ruins. A fine Landscape by Poussin, with a mountain, castle, and distant view. fH& Feast, by Paul Veronese, in a gallery. The princi- pal figures are our Saviour and his Disciples. Most gro- tesque figures of Dwarfs are introduced in conformity to the custom of the age of the painter. A Holy Family, consisting of the Virgin, Joseph, our Sa- viour, and St. John-, and an old woman instructing our Saviour to read. Our Saviour delivering the Keys to Peter, a capital piece by Vandyck. The Virgin, with our Saviour in her arms', placed in the clouds, surrounded with Angels — a most divine look in the face of the Virgin. The Wife of Pilate interceding with her Husband for the Life of our Saviour. — They appear descending from the hall of judgment. The woman seems to apply with great zeal and earnestness to Pilate, who appears going down the steps in full armour. — By Paid Veronese. Some of the Cartoons in water colours. A Nativity, and the Shepherds bringing gifts. The awk- ward rusticity of the country people admirably expressed. A Circumcision, with great devotion in the looks of all the assistants. g 2 A 44 KNOWSLEY. A beautiful Madona, leaning with inexpressible affection over her child sleeping in her lap : above is an Angel. The Head of a Woman in high devotion. A fine picture of the Brazen Serpent, with numbers of figures, many dead, others eagerly looking at the saving image. The fable of Glaucus and Scylla, a small but fine piece by S. Rosa. The Lady flies, as might be expected, from the monstrous deity. The scenery and figure answer faithr fully to the description left us by the Poet : " Ante fretum est ingens apicem collectus in unam, " Longe sine arboribus convexus ad Eequora vertex, " Constitit hie : et tuta loco monstrumne, Deusne, " Hie sit ignorans, admiraturque colorem : " Ceesariemque humeros subjectaque terga tenentem/. " Ultimaque excipiat quod tortilis inguinas piscis." " Steep shelving to the margin of the flood, - " A neighb'ring mountain bare and woodless stood : " Here, by the place secured, her steps she stay'd, " And trembling stilL her lover's form survey'd : *.* His shape, his hue, her troubled sense appall, " And dropping locks that q]er his shoulders fall : " She sees his face divine, and manly brow, " End in a fish's wreathy tail below." Rowe. Jacob KNOWSLEY. 45 Jacob a?id his Flock, by Ponte Bassano. Our Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, by the sweet and high-finishing pencil of Adrian Vanderwerf. A most exquisite small painting of Horses drinking, by Wouverman. A large picture of a Descent from the Cross, by Vandyck. The Host of Pharaoh in the Red Sea, and the Israelites on the Shore — a gay picture, by old Franks. The Love of the Arts, represented by a beautiful Cupid leaning over rich armour, musical instruments, pictures and sculptures; said by Winstanley to be the joint work of Sny— ders and Vandyck. An AngeVs, Head, by Guido. A most horribly fine picture of St. Bartholomew. The painter, Spagnolet, who dealt in dreadful subjects, and par- ticularly in martyrdoms, to please the gloom and supersti- tion of his cotemporary countrymen, has selected the in- stant when the executioner had begun that of the Saint, who is tied by one leg and one arm to the stumps of some ancient trees. The Bourreau had begun the incision in the arm, stuck his knife in one of the trees, and having intro- duced his finger under the skin, seems to begin the opera- tion with a savage grin and delight. Two Pieces by candle-light, Schalken. Judith and her Maid, with the Head of Holofemes. Two 46 KNOWSLEY. Two Philosophers studying, leaning on a Sphere. The Death of Seneca. hot and his Daughters ; a fine ebriety in the Face of the -old man. Nicodemus communing with our Saviour by night ; a ca- pital piece by Tintoret. The Madona and Chilk attended by Angels. Our Sa- viour is made guilty of a very common anachronism in these pious subjects, delivering a lily to St. Francis. Four large pieces painted on gilt leather, by Borgognme, have, since my first visit to this place, been added to the collection. Two are Battle-pieces; the third, a Turkish March; and the fourth, the Destruction of Pharaoh m the Red Sea. Almost the whole of this valuable collection was formed by James earl of Derby, who sent Mr. Winstanley abroad for that purpose. In the years 1728 and 172Q, this cele- brated painter etched twenty of the finest of these pic- tures. i here take the liberty of correcting a mistake of Mr. Walpole, who was misled, by the similitude of name, to confound Winstanley the engineer, who built the Eddy- stone CROXTETH.— SEFTON. 47 stone light-house, with this person. The painter was a native of Warrington, second son of William Wi?ista?iley ; was brought up a painter, and patronised by James earl of Derby. He was buried in the church-yard at Warrington, dying, as his epitaph informs us, on the 20th of May 1 75(3, aged sixty. After leaving K?iowsley, I took a descending course north- west. On the left lies Croxteth, a large stone house, re- Croxteth. built by William Lord Molyneux, grandfather to the pre- sent Lord Sefton, and is the residence of the family; and descended into a dull flat, which continues for some miles, in one place enlivened by the canal now forming to give the distant Leeds a port for its flourishing woollen manufacture, and to benefit a tract of country of a hundred and eight miles extent by a water communication with the port of Liverpool. Besides Leeds, Bradford, Keighly, Skipton, Co hi, Clithero, Blackburn, Preston, Wigan and Qrmskirk will share in some measure the advantage. By noon I reached the village of Sefton, placed on a vast sefton. range of fine meadows, that reach almost to the sea, and jn a great measure supply Liverpool with hay. It is wa- tered by the Alt, a small trout stream ; but, after the first winter 48 ; SEFTON. winter flood, is covered with water the whole season, by reason of want of fall to convey it away. Here stood the ancient seat of the Molynenxes, where their Norman ancestor, William de Moulins, settled on the grant made him by Roger de Poictiers, to whom the Con- queror had given all the lands between the Ribble and the Mersey. Before that event this manor was held by five Thanes: here was one hide worth sixteen shillings*. The church is a large and handsome edifice ; consisting of a body, and two ailes battlemented and crenelled. The steeple is an elegant spire, injured by four short clumsy pyramids at its base : the windows are obtuse, Gothic. The present church was built in the time of Henry VIII., as is said, by Anthony Molyneux, rector of the place, a celebrated preacher, and distinguished for his acts of piety -J\ The chancel is divided by a screen from the body of the church, and contains sixteen stalls of elegant sculp- ture. Here, for a series of ages, has been the sepulture of the family ; and still are preserved the monumental me- morials of several of this respectable race. Names are wanting # Doomsday Book. f Br. Magna, ii. 1282. Lodge's Irish Peerage. 3 » * * j 6 SEFTON. 49 wanting to two cross-legged figures in stone, with shields tri- angular, expressive of their profession of Knights Templars. These effigies are drawn in a book in the Heralds' Office, from a fine pedigree sent there by Lord Sefton. Around an altar-tomb, of white marble, is an inscription in memory of Sir Richard Molyneux, who died in 143Q, and Joan his Wife. He was Lord of Bradley, Haydike, Warrington, Newton, Burton-wode, and Newton-in-tke-dale ; distinguished him- self in the battle of Agincoart, and received the honour of knighthood from Henry V, The figures of Sir William Molyneux, his two Wives, and thirteen Children, are expressed in brass plates. I am too much pleased with the simplicity of the epitaph, not to transcribe it: " Sir Richarde Molyneux, and Dame Elenore, his Wyffe, " whose Soules GOD p'don ! " Dame Worshope was my guide in life, " And did my doinges guide ; " Dame Wertue left me not alone, " When Soule from Bodye hyed. " And thoughe that Deathe with dinte of darte, " Hath brought my corps on sleepe, " The eternall God my eternall Soule " Eternally doeth kepe." H This 50 SEFTON. This gentleman was knighted at the coronation of Queen Mary, and died in 15(38. My pen has carried me on so rapidly that I omitted in its place the mention of the valiant father of the last, another William, who also appears, with his two wives, in brass. He distinguished himself in three actions against the Scots in the , time of Henry VIII. and in that of Floddon with his own hand took two banners. The Lancashire archers contri- buted much to the victory ; and He?iry, under his own seal, sent Sir William a letter of thanks for his share in it. He died in 1548. On a flat stone is preserved the memory of Caryl lord Molyneux, an eminent but unsuccessful royalist: his fa- mily raised a regiment of foot and another of horse in sup- port of Charles I. This brought on him, during the usurp- ation, heavy penalties ; and, on the accession of James IL those honours by which the bigoted Prince distinguished such who retained the ancient religion. Here are other inscriptions in the broken painted glass of the windows, recording their respective makers. Among them are one to Molyneux, dated 1542; another to Mar- garet ■ i 1 1 « • • • , * .:•/ S < s LYDIATE CHAPEL. 5 1 garet Bulcley, daughter to Sir Richard Molyneux, date 1543 ; and a third to an Ireland of Lydiate, dated 1540. A ride of two miles from hence brought me to the ruins of Lydiate Chapel, a small but most beautiful building with a tower steeple, with pinnacles and battlements venerably overgrown in many parts with ivy. It had been a Chapel of Ease to the parish church of Halsal, dedicated to St. Ca- therine, and supposed to have been founded by one of the Ir elands of Lydiate-hall : over the door are the letters L. I. for Lawrence Ireland probably the founder. It is at present owned by Henry Blundell esq. of Ince, by descent from the heiress of the estate. Four miles farther lies Ormskirk, a neat town, with four ormskirk. well-built streets crossing each other. Its only trade is the spinning of cotton for the Manchester manufactures, and thread for sail-cloth. If has long been in possession of a fair and market, by virtue of a grant of Edward I. (con- firmed by Edward II.) to the Canons of Burscough, to whom the church and manor belonged ; given them by Robert Fitzhe?iry lord of Latham *. In lieu of toll and stallage, they were bound to pay annually, at Liverpool, for the use of Edmund earl of Lancaster, one mark, as long as h 2 the * Dugdade, 11, 304. 52 ORMSKIRK. the market endured. This manor now belongs to the Earl of Derby. The church is seated at the upper end of the town, and is remarkable for its two steeples, placed contiguous; the one a tower, the other a squat spire. In a chapel is the vault of the Derby family, the deposit of its illustrious dust since the dissolution of monasteries. That I might lose nothing that was to be seen, the sexton flung open both the folding doors, and presented the humiliating sight of coffin piled on coffin, with such an eruption of musty air as thoroughly confirmed me in my opinion of the impro- priety of this species of interment. Two figures of StanJies ; short hair, hands closed, he- ralds' mantles and arms. Two Ladies in close-bodied gowns ; one with an Earl's coronet. A Scaresbrick, on an altar-tomb, in a herald's mantle, with arms in shields on the sides. The four first were removed from Burscough priory at the time of the dissolution. These probably were the first Earl of Derby and his two wives ; the Lady with the coro- net, his second wife, the Countess of Richmond-, for the first, ORMSKIRK.— BURSCOUGH PRIORY. 53 first, who was sister to the famous Richard earl of War- wick, died before he was created Earl. The Earl, in his will, mentions personages which he had caused to be made for his father, mother, grandfather and grandmother, at Burscough. Probably all, except the above, were destroyed at the dissolution. At about two miles distant from Ormskirk I turned into a field to visit the site of the Priory of Burscough, founded burscough; in the time of Richard I. by Robert Fitzhenry lord of La- tha?n, under the tutelage of St, Nicholas. At the time of the dissolution it maintained a Prior and five Canons of the Augustine order, and forty servants ; endowed, according to one valuation, with 80l. 7s. 6d. annual income ; to another, with 1221. 5s. (3d.; or, as Speed has it, with 12Ql. Is. 10d.* Nothing is left of this pile but part of the centre arch of the church; and, instead of the magnificent tombs of the Stanlies, which till the reformation graced the place, a few modern grave-stones peep through the grass, memorials of poor Catholics, who fondly prefer this now violated spot. ' Robert endowed it with considerable property, emoluments, and alms; for the sake of the souls of Henry II. , of John earl of Morton, his own, and that of his wife, and those of all his ancestors, wishing the kingdom of Heave/? to all that * Tanner, 231. 54 BURSCOUGH PRIORY.— LATHAM. that would increase these deeds of charity, and giving to the devil and his angels any that should be so impious as to infringe his bequests*. John Barf o?i, the last Prior, was among those who sub- scribed to the King's supremacy, and received a pension of 1 31. 6s. 8d: which was paid in trust, for his use, to Rannlph Poole and James Skaresbroke, as late as 1553. At that time there remained in charge, out of the revenues of the house, 11. 13s. 4d. in annuities, and a pension of 131. 6s. 8d. to one Hugh Huxley "j-*. At a little distance east of Burscotigh, on an eminence, stands Latham-hall, a palace built by Sir Thomas Booth knight, Chancellor to Frederick late Prince of Wales. He was bred to the law, and raised by his profession vast wealth. He, dying a bachelor, left his estates to his bro- ther, who had been captain of an East India ship, whose only daughter transferred them into the honourable House of Wilbraham, by marrying with Richard, son of the honest advocate Randle Wilbraham, a cadet of the House of Towns end oi Nantwich, who had raised a large fortune with a most unblemished character. Latham * Dugdale 11, 304. t Willis' s Abbies, 11, 105. LATHAM. 55 Latham is placed on a most barren spot, and commands a view as extensive as dull. The back-front was begun by William earl of Derby ; the rest completed in a most mag- nificent manner by Sir Thomas Beetle. The house consists of a ground floor, principal, and attic ; has a rustic base- ment, with a double flight of steps to the first story. The front extends a hundred and fifty-six feet, and has nine windows on each floor: the offices are joined to it, by a corridor supported by pillars of the Ionic order. The hall is nearly a square — 40 feet by 42; its height 36; the saloon 3Q by 24. On this floor are thirteen apart- ments. The ancient Latham, the celebrated seat of nobility and hospitality, stood between the north-east offices of the pre- sent house and the kitchen-garden. This place, with vast property, belonged to the Lathams till the year 130Q, when, by the death of Sir Thomas de Latham, it fell to Sir John Stanley, knight of the garter, second brother of Sir William Stanley of Hooton, in right of Isabel daughter of Sir Thomas, who married into the fortunate house, and laid the foundation of its greatness. Notice has before been taken of the share his grandson,, 3 Sir 56 LATHAM. Sir Thomas first earl of Derby, had in the placing on the throne Henry VII. In his absence, during the preceding commotions, ballad authority tells me that the old house of Latham was ruined, and that, on his return, he rebuilt it with great magnificence. " When place and weete and wisdom called " Home this Earle to rest, " He viewed his antient seate, and saw " The ruines of his nest : " And pull'd it downe, and from the ground " New-builded Lalham-hall, " So spatious that it can receive " Two kings, their trains and all." The Bard appears to have a strong partiality to the place, by the following lines, after mentioning the visit the Earl was honoured with by his son-in-law Henry VII. who was so struck with the place as to build a palace on the same model : " At his home cominge pull'd downe Richmont, V Faire in men's estimation, " And built it new in all respects, " Like Latham-hall in fashion." The form of this house may in a great measure be col- lected from the state it was in immediately before the noted LATHAM. 57 noted siege in the last century. In the centre was a lofty tower called the Eagles : it had two courts ; for mention is made of a strong and high gateway before the first.— The whole was surrounded with a wall two yards thick, flanked by nine towers, and this again guarded by a moat eight yards wide and two deep. Such was its situation in February 1644, when it was possessed by the heroic Countess ; who, receiving a sum- mons from Sir Thomas Fairfax, with an offer of most ho- nourable terms, replied, " That she was there in a double " trust — of faith to her husband, and allegiance to her So- " vereign; and that she meant to preserve her honour and " obedience, though in her own ruin." She was as good as her word; for, during the space of sixteen months, with the assistance of a set of gallant officers appointed and commanded by herself, she repelled every effort to reduce the place. Colonel Edward Chisenhall was one of the gallant officers who commanded under her. Hearing that the enemy boasted of their store of provision, he sallied out, and, as the expression was, " stole their dinner." With a fortitude beyond her sex, she endured all the miseries of a siege, and beheld, with as little emotion as Charles XII a bomb fall through the room where she and her children were at dinner. At length she was relieved by the royal 1 forces 58 LATHAM. forces under Prince Rupert and her Lord, when she re- tired from the place, recommending, as Governor, Captain Edward Raws thorn*, who, with the spirit of his Mistress, endured another siege till the ruin of the royal cause ; and, - by the royal command, he yielded up the house to Colonel Booth, December 5, 1645. The reduction was thought of such importance that public thanks were, by order of Parliament, given by the Ministers of London in all the churches^. The place was dismantled the following year: all the floors and wainscotting were sold for 541. 7s. 10d. Knowsley was, by order of the ruling powers, repaired with the lead from hence. On the Restoration it was repossessed by the family; was repaired, and even inhabited the beginning of this cen- tury, when the Eagle Tower and some parts of the wooden house were standing. The house, and this part of the estate, were transferred to John lord Ashburnham, by his marriage in 1714 with Henrietta daughter of WilUam ninth earl of Derby. Lord Ashbiimham sold it to a Fur- ness, who soon disposed of it to Sir Thomas Bootle. > I have more than once heard a relation, which, if well founded, is a wonderful instance of the retribution of Providence, the instability of all human tenure, and the strange changes of * Hist. Stanley Fam. 112. t Whitelock, 182. LATHAM. 59 of fortune in families, which ought to instil a most humiliat- ing lesson into the Great. Previous to the siege of La- tham, one Booth (said to have been ancestor to Sir Thomas) was porter to the Noble owner. He is said to have taken . a voluntary oath of loyalty, but afterwards sided with the Parliament. At the storming of Bolton, he had a Captain's command in the town; when surrounded by the royalists, and seeing his old master near him, he applied to his Lord- ship for quarter: the fellow perished in the rage of the as- sault. His descendants possess the most ancient property of the Peer, to whom he had sued in vain. Another singular anecdote is preserved, serving to shew the pride of high lineage, and the vanity of low. The late Earl of Derby had on sale a place near Liverpool called Booth, which Sir Thomas was particularly desirous of, through the ambition of being thought to have been de- rived from some antient stock. The Earl refused to part with it to this new man, who with proper spirit sent his Lordship word, (Latham being then to be sold,) that if he would not let him be Booth of Booth, he was resolved to be Booth of Latham. Possibly the family of the Booties may have been, through envy, depreciated ; for, when Sir William Dugdah made his 1 2 visitation 60 LATHAM. visitation of Lancashire, in 1(504, Thomas Booth of Mel- ling was summoned, with other Gentry of the county, and entered his pedigree. It appeared that they had then been settled there four generations, though a family ?wn arma gerens, those they assumed being the property of Ponsonby earl of Besborough. This Thomas was either grandfather or great-grandfather of Sir Thomas Bootle, knight. Alms-houses. 6 Near the house is a small chapel and some alms-houses, founded, I think, by one of the Stanleys. A chaplain be-r longs to them, who bears the title of Almoner of Latham. Before I quit Latham I must not forget the romance of Oskytel, the person to whom the Stanleys owe the cogni- zance of the Eagle and Child. A certain Sir Thomas de Latham, in a century uncertain, found himself, in a very advanced age, childless, and in possession of an antiquated lady. In hopes of posterity, he entered on an intrigue with a fair vassal in the neighbourhood, who, in consequence, bore to him a son. It was the wish of Sir Thomas to adopt the child, and to introduce him into the family. In order to do it unsuspected by the lady, he caused it to be placed well swaddled in an eagle's nest in Terston-wood, immediately before he had artfully drawn his wife on a walk that way. The cries of the infant were soon heard : it was relieved from LATHAM.— ECCLESTON. 6 1 from its situation, pitied by the lady, who considered it as a heaven-sent gift in compassion to her sterility, took it home, and, ignorant of the deceit, educated it with all the fondness of a natural mother. From Latham I descended and passed over Hosier-moss, leaving on the right some beautiful hills wooded and well cultivated ; crossed the river Douglas at Newburgh, and here began to ascend: passed through a little village called Hell- in -Mods ley, and by Eccleston, a small church; near which I crossed the Yarrow, and soon after refreshed myself and horses at Rose Whittles, an inn on the great road between Preston and Warrington. This is in the parish of Ley- land, from whence the hundred takes its name, and which in former times was one of the five little shires into which this county was subdivided, viz. West Derby, Salford, Ley- land, Blackburn, and Territorium de Lancaster* \ The village of Leyland is pleasant and dry : the church, dedicated to St. Andrew, is a noble room of sixty-five feet by thirty-three, a fine arch without a single pillar ; the living is a vicarage: the impropriate rectory did belong to the abbey of Penworthan. In the church are several mo- numents of the Farringtons. Shaw-hall, the seat of Sir . .' : William * Discourses of Em. Antiquaiies, 1. £5. 62 LEYLAND.— SHAW-HALL. William Farrington, stands at a small distance from Ley- land, highly improved by the worthy owner. The house is large, but not regular; yet has some fine apartments, such as a saloon thirty-three by twenty-four, the great room sixty-seven by thirty-three, and a gallery fitting up for a Museum for a considerable collection of Natural His- tory. Among the pictures are some very valuable; such as a Noli me tangere, a large piece by Titian, a very fine Land- scape by Baptiste, three Sea Views by Vaiidervelt, one remarkably well done ; a cartoon of Holbein s Head, by himself, highly esteemed ; a fine picture of Fowls, by Hon* decotes-, two by Woottoji — one of Sir William Farrington s Father, with a favourite horse, a huntsman, and some dogs-, the other a most beautiful Landscape. A good copy of the Aldobrandine Marriage ; the more valuable, as the original is going fast to decay. In the hall are some curious paintings al fresco, taken from the walls of Hercuhmeum, with the colours most surprisingly preserved, notwithstanding they are now seventeen hundred years old ; and over the fire-place of the eating-room is a portrait of the present Lady Hesketh, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, with the co- lours most surprisingly faded, cadaverous before death. 6 • In *, SHAW-HALL. 63 In other apartments are a Sleeping Venus, with a Satyr drawing aside the Mantle, by Rubens. A Venus and two Cupids, by Romanelli. Several of the family of the Farringtons by Vandyck, and one by Jansen ; a portrait of Robert duke of Ancaster, and his second wife Albinia Farrington ; another of the Earl of Derby, and his son the late Lord Strange: and finally, a Head of Sir Thomas More, (from whom the Farringtons are regularly descended,) painted by Holbein, the well-known protected artist of that honoured character. Near this place I turned east out of the great road, near which the country begins to grow hilly. From an emi- nence in Brin-hill*, or Brindle-parish, I had a pretty view of the rich vale of the Ribble, and to the west its estuary, the Setantiorum Forties of Ptolemy. My curiosity led me to view the little church of Brindle, seated in a deep bottom. I observed on an outside wall an impression resembling a shoe with a great heel : a communi- cative inhabitant informed me of the cause, by saying that here happened a learned dispute between a Protestant and a Popish * Here appears the British name Bryn, from the hilliness of the coun- try, with the needless tautology of the English word hill. 64 BRINDLE. Popish Divine concerning the truth of their respective tenets. The last, in the*heat of controversy, wished his foot (which he had placed against a stone) might sink into it if his doc- trine was not true. The reforming stone instantly dissolved, and received the papistical foot — to be released from its stocks in a manner my informant left me ignorant of. About a mile farther, on the summit of a bold hill, with the Derwent flowing in a deep hollow beneath, stands HoOghton Houghton Tower, a great pile consisting of two courts, with three square towers in the front ; beneath the mid- dlemost is the gateway. The first court contains the offices; the second, the dwelling apartments, numerous, but very ruinous. The draw-well is suitable to the height of the situation, being eighty yards deep. This place was garrisoned during the civil wars, and part of it blown up accidentally, but afterwards repaired*. It is the property of Sir Henry Houghton, to whose fa- mily it has belonged since the reign of Henry II. at which time it was called Hocton, and gave name to the first men- tioned in history, Adam de Hocton. In a short time after leaving Houghton, I reached Black- bum, * Collin's Baronets, 1. £0. » > > » *#•* £ * c E o K a BLACKBURN. & burn, the capital of a district that formerly had the addition of shire, and, according to Camden, took the name from the blackness of its waters. This whole territory was be- stowed by the Conqueror* on Ilbert de Laci, one of his potent followers. He and his descendants parcelled it out again to their dependants, and most of the estates in this hundred derive their titles from them. The family of As- pinal of Standen, near Clithero, still possesses, its original grant made in the reign of King John, to an ancestor Wil- liam Fitz-Fulk, marshal to Roger de Laci, constable of Chester, and lord of Blachburnshire. The Townleys of Townley, Nowels of Read, Osbadistons, Hackings, and many others derive their estates from the same grants. The town is seated in a bottom surrounded by hills : it Blackburn. is at present rising into greatness, resulting from the over- flow of manufactures in Manchester ; for the artificers re- treat to cheaper places, and less populous. The manufac- tures are cottons : — considerable quantities are printed here ; others are sent to London. The fields around are whitened with the materials which are bleached on them : the thread, which must be ranked with them, is brought from Ireland. The streets are irregular; but some good houses, the k effect * Dugdale's Barony 1. 98. , 66 BLACKBURN. effect of wealth, begin to appear here and there in several places. The church, before the Reformation, belonged to the monastery of Whalley : the Archbishop of Canterbury is Rector. The living is served by a Vicar, who has seven chapelries in his gift, but independent of him in point of revenue ; one is ninety pounds a year : four have been aug- mented by Queen Anne's bounty. In the town is a free school, founded by Queen Elizabeth : the Master has a sti- pend of fifty pounds a year. In the church, in two of the windows over the seat of the Claytons, (late the Osbadistons of OsbadistonJ is much miscellaneous painted glass, collected by one of the family. Among the panes are four pieces of great beauty — Our Sa- viour, St. James the greater and the less, and St. Matthew. Against the walls are two brasses ; one with the bald head of an old man with a great beard, his body armed ; inscribed — " Here lyeth the body of Sir Edward Osbadil- ston, a charitable, courteous, and valiant knight ; qui obiit A. D. 1636,*?/. 63." The epitaph is concise, but contains a character replete with $ir Edward OjSbadiston .,,• ? • • \/-K; :>l fall !/->/•' *..■'"• BLACKBURN. 67 with all the requisites of chivalry in its period of utmost purity. The other brass is in memory of another Osbadil- ston, which acquaints us with nothing farther than that he died in 166Q, aged 38. The congregation of this mother-church consists of about two thousand. The ground about the town is very barren, and much of it sandy : coal is found in plenty in the south end of the parish, and in several parts much stone slate, which is used as a cover to the houses. In one of the hills there is alum- stone, which Fuller says was worked in his time, but had long been neglected on account of the expence of taking off the incumbent strata, which increased so as to deprive the adventurers of all profit. When Sir George Colebrooke's monopolizing alum project took place, he purchased and worked these mines ; but, since his failure, they have been again neglected. I continued my journey over a hilly tract, very moorish and barren, and had a fine view of the eastern part of the Vale of Ribble, with a sight of Clithero and its castle. In the middle of a plain varied with groves and hedge-rows, watered by the Ribble, the Hodder and the Calder, I de- k 2 scended 68 • WHALLEY-ABBEY. scended a paved road of uncommon steepness and depth, and, after crossing the western Calder, a fine stream that rushes out I of a narrow valley from the right, entered on the precincts of the Abbey of Whalley, seated on the river's side, on the very edge of the plain beneath, the awful shade of a lofty brow clothed with trees impending over the op- posite side of the river. The boundaries of this religious house were very large : two square towers yet remain, with pointed gateways. Beneath are the ancient entrances to the place : one is finely vaulted, and the arch secured with stone ribs, curiously intersecting each other. Here still remains part of the conventual church, and some of the old dwelling part of the abbey, perhaps the abbot's lodgings. — On a bow window are cut in stone several coats of arms, of founders or benefactors, such as a lion rampant, that of the Lacies earls of Lincoln ; the legs of a man and the eagle's claws, the arms and badge of the Stanleys ; a griffin, three roses, &c. After the dissolution the place was granted by Edward VI. to Richard Ashton of Darcy Lever, a branch of the house of Middleton, with the greatest part of the demesne ; the rest to John Braddyl of Braddyl in this parish, whose an- cestors were settled in these parts since the time of Ed- ward II. which his descendant still possesses. Ashton 6 made WHALLEY-ABBEY. Og made the abbey his residence : considerable buildings were added, that still continue, (but very ruinous,) a good speci- men of old splendour. The gallery is a hundred and fifty feet long, wainscotted, and most coarsely painted ; with a large frize above, of most rude sculpture # . Beyond, are the ruins of very considerable parts of this religious house : a vast length of room, perhaps the refectory, with windows on each side, some rounded, others pointed : above this had been the lodging-rooms. A great court lies to the west of these, and on one side a vast pile with two rows of rounded windows, with gothic stone-work within. In the hall is a strange portrait of the Orkney hermaphro- dite, Anne Macallame, born in 1 6 1 5 ; dressed in a long plaid fastened with a broch, a red petticoat, and a white apron ; the chin is furnished with a vast beard, the virile part of the figure — but at its feet, to denote the duplicity of sex, appear the figures of a cock and hen. This Epiccene had the honour of being presented at Court in 1 662. The name of this place, in the Saxon age, was Valeleg. Angus tin, the monk who was sent on a mission to preach the gospel to this kingdom about the year 5^0, published the glad tidings even in this remote corner. A church was founded * Pulled down since I visited the place. 70 WHALLEY-ABBEY. founded here at this period, dedicated to all the Saints, and then became and continued for many years parochial to the vast tract of Blackbornshire, and all Boland : the church at that time was called the White Church under Legh. As converts increased, the necessity of more places of worship gave rise to three others in a very little time; those of Blachborn, Chepyn, and Ribchester. These were served in a singular manner : the churches had no particular patrons ; the lords of the soil in which they lay took the care of them, and appointed any of his relations or friends to the cure, after receiving institution from the Bishop of Lich- field: they were styled Rectors of Whalley or Blackbom ; were married men, and persons of property. The country was at this time very thinly inhabited, and almost a den of wild beasts. The Bishops, therefore, for want of a supply of clergy, left the government of these churches to the owners of the place, with the power of deans ; so that they came to be styled by the people deans, not parsons. Thus affairs continued for four hundred and seventy years, till the time of the Conquest, and the office was hereditary for all that space. It continued the same till the reign of William Rufus, when Roger, son of Galfrid, (the last mar- ried dean,) being prohibited matrimony by one of the coun- cils, made vows of chastity. He likewise was the last dean ; for, finding by the said council that the hereditary succes- 2 sion WHALLEY-ABBEY* 71 sion was no longer to be continued, he conveyed the presenta- tion of Whalley and its chapels to his relation John, consta- ble of Chester, lord of Blackborn, and founder of Stanlaw abbey in Cheshire, who bestowed them on one Peter of Chester. Henry Lacy earl of Lincoln, a successor to John, bestowed this church on the White Monks of Stanlaw in Wiral, and by that means gave occasion to the foundation of this abbey. He bound them to present to that cure the person that he or his heirs should nominate; and, in case they could procure the impropriation, and augment the num- ber of monks to sixty, which before was forty, they were to remove the abbey from Stanlaw to Whalley *. This was ef- fected by the munificence of the Earl in 12Q6, who at the same time caused to be translated to the new convent the bones of all his ancestors which had been interred at Stan- law^-. Another reason was assigned for the removal of the monks, which was the inconveniency of their first si- tuation, liable to be. overflowed by the great tides. The removal soon gave umbrage to the neighbouring abbey of Salley. The last complained that this new house was, contrary to the institutions of the Order, placed too near to the other ; that it raised the market ; and, by the ad- vanced prices of corn, salt, butter, cheese, and other arti- cles, * Dugdale Monast. 1. 898. f Dugdale Baron. 1. 105. 72 WHALLEY-ABBEY. cles, they suffered annually to the amount of twenty-six pounds ten shillings. At length, in 1 305, by the mediation of the abbots of Revesby and Swineshed, the affair was com- promised in a General Chapter of the Order*. Among the grants to this abbey is a singular one by Henry duke of Lancaster, of two cottages, seven acres of land, (I suppose arable,) a hundred and eighty-three acres of pasturage, and two hundred of wood in Blachborn chase; and another grant of the same nature in the neighbourhood, for the support of a female recluse and two women servants within the parish church-yard of Whalley, who were per- petually to pray for the souls of the Duke and all his pos- terity. The Convent was to repair their habitation, and to provide a chaplain and a clerk to sing mass to them in the chapel belonging to their retreat ; to bestow on them weekly seventeen loaves, weighing fifty soudz de sterling a- piece, of such bread as was used in the abbey ; seven loaves of the second sort ; eight gallons of the better sort of beer, and three-pence for their food. All this must have been surely intended to enable them to keep hospitality. Be- sides, they had annually, on the Feast of All Saints, ten large stock-fish, a bushel of oatmeal for pottage, a bushel of rye, two gallons of oil for their lamps, one pound of tal- low , * Dugdale Mon. 1, 897, 898. /WH ALLEY- ABBEY. 73 low for candles, six loads of turf and one of faggots for their fuel *. Upon the death of these recluses, the Duke or his Heirs were to appoint successors. This abbey flourished till the year 1536, when, encou- raged by Ashe's rebellion, or the pilgrimage of Grace, the abbots and monks of several convents, who had before either surrendered their houses, or been driven out, repos- sessed themselves of their ancient seats, and resumed their functions. Among them were the religious of this House of Salley, Norto?i and Hexham : their reign, however, was but short ; the Earl of Shrewsbury, who commanded the army against the rebels, ordered them to be taken out and mar- tial law to be executed on them^. John Pas/aw, the twenty-fifth abbey of Whalley, and one of his monks, were hanged at Lancaster, and another monk in a field adjacent to -the abbey. On the dissolution, the revenues were found to be, according to Dugdale, 3211. Qs. Id.; to Speed, 5511. ' 4 s. 6d. The house and manor continued the property of the Ashtons till the present century, when it was transferred to the Curxons, by the marriage of Mary, coheir of Sir Ralph Ashton, with the late Sir Nathaniel Curzon, and at present is the property of their second son, Ashton Curzon, esq. l The * Dugdale Mon. ]. 903. 1 Herbert's Life Henry FIJI. Ml. 74 WHALLEY-CHURCH. The parish church lies at a little distance from the ab- - bey, and had thirteen chapels belonging to it; now only twelve, that of Clithero-castle being demolished. The nearest is three miles from the church : the living is a vi- carage, in the gift of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who has the rectory, which he lets out upon fines on leases for lives. Archbishop Juxofi left to the vicar and curates 1 201. per annum. The Vicar had anciently a very considerable endowment; but in the year 1330, upon a complaint that he had too great a share of the property, to the prejudice of the monastery, Roger Northborough, bishop of Liclifield and Coventry, (in whose diocese it then was,) ordered that he should only receive sixty-six marks and four quarters of oats, and hay sufficient for his horse ; which was confirmed by the Archdeacon of Chester in 1332, who in those days had great power delegated to him by the Bishops. The salary is at present only 801. a year. Here is a small school, founded by Edward VI. with twenty marks a year salary, but since has received some small augmentation by several donations. There are thir- teen scholarships in Brazen-noze College, Oxford, given to scholars from this school, Middleton and Burnley. In 1643, the sad effects, of civil discords were felt at this 1 place. WHALLEY-CHURCH. 75 place. James earl of Derby had made himself master of Conflict here. the place, and posted his men in the church and steeple; but the people of the country, being zealous Parliamenta- rians, rose in arms, and with great slaughter expelled the Royalists. In the church-yard are three remarkable crosses; two are carved in form similar to that of Much Achwyfan in Flintshire : the third is so eccentric, that I give an en- graving of it, more expressive than any verbal description. Certain stones were erected in the time of St. Augustine the monk, and were called the Crosses of the Blessed Au- gustine : but that these are the identical pillars, I will not dare to assert ; yet if I did, I should be supported by the opinion of the able Dugdale # . From Whalley there is a pleasant ride of five miles along clithxro. the plain to Clithero, a small borough town seated on an insulated eminence, with a high lime-stone rock at one end, crowned by the little castle, whose remains are a square tower, surrounded at a distance by a strong wall. It was possessed by the Royalists the latter end of the Civil Wars, and was, in 1()49, ordered by Parliament to be dismantled. l 2 The * Monast. i. 898. 7Q CLITHERO. The town had been entirely moated round except on the inaccessible parts. Sir William Dugdale supposes it to have been built by Robert Laci, who died in 1 1Q3 ; but I find both the castle and chapel are mentioned before that time, in a grant to the Priory at Pontefract, by Hugh de la Fal*, who, on the flight of his elder brother Roger Laci in 1025, for his con- cern in Mowbray s rebellion, had a grant made him of this place by William Rufus, for his faithful adherence to the royal cause. The latter repossessed themselves during the troubles of Stephen, and afterwards, by agreement, secured their an- cient domain -f\ It does not appear that they ever made this castle their residence, but intended it only as a garri- son to secure their vast property in these parts, for their chief residence was. in the castle of Pontefract. This expired in Henry Laci, last earl of Lincoln of that name. His daughter Alice transferred it by marriage to Thomas Plantagenet earl of Lancaster. This Lady was of loose * Dugdale Monast. 1. 649. f Dugdate Baron- 1, 99. Among the Prints published by the Antiqua- lian Society is one representing this Castle in an entire state. . i » » » i , » r,i Rs H < £ *•-}« CLITHERO. 77 loose life, for she lived in great familiarity with Eubulo le Strange, whom she afterwards married without the King's licence. Edward II. took advantage of this, and, seizing on all her fortunes, obliged her to resign those of her inheri- tance which she possessed in this, county and Yorkshire. — ■ These were bestowed on Henry earl of Lancaster, her hus- band's brother, on her death in 1348 # . He was also cre- ated Earl of Lincoln; by which means this lordship, being part of that earldom, became a parcel of the duchy of Lancaster. It became also, in compliment to the Blood- Royal, one of those great seigniories called an Honour,' on which lesser lordships or manors depended, by perform- ance of customs and services to the lord paramount. Such were some of the ancient feudal baronies, or such which had been in the hands of the Crown ^. This continued in the same line till Henry of Lancaster became King of Eng- land. It was vested from that time in the Crown, till the Restoration, when it was made part of the reward of George Monk duke of Albemarle, from whom it came to the Family ©f the Duke of Montague, in which it rests. The chapel mentioned in Hugh de la VaTs grant was within the castle, and was called St. Michael's : it was first built for the use of the Baron, his family, tenants and. fo- resters.. * Dugdale Baron. 1, 782. \ Blackstone's Com. 11, 91. 4to ecL 78 CLITHERO. Testers. The monks of Whalley at length prevailed to have it annexed to their church ; but Henry earl of Lincohi reclaimed it, seized on the revenues, and nominated the minister. At length, after many petitions to the King and Parliament, it was restored to the abbey, and the revenues now go along with those of Whalley, on leases. The cha- pel is totally ruined, yet has always been considered as a parish church, and is so named in the ancient deeds be- longing to the neighbouring gentry. It is said to have been a donative, with the chapels of Pendley, Whitewell, Rossendale and Goodshaw under it; and there is testimony that the forests of Trawden, Rossendale, Bolland t and Pen- die, were within its limits # . The church is a chapelry belonging to Whalley. It has not any thing remarkable in it, except the alabaster figures of a Knight and his Lady. The coat of arms on the breast • of the Knight are much defaced, but seem to have been three garbs on a bend, the ancient bearing of the Heskeths before they changed it to an eagle displayed. The house in this town, called the Alleys, was formerly the property Of that family. This place had a very ample charter from the first Henry de * Bishop GastreV* MSS. CLITHERO. 79 de Lacy, who granted the same privileges with the citizens of Chester, which was confirmed by another charter by Edward I. The town is governed by two Bailiffs, who jointly have the power of one Justice of Peace. They are the returning officers of the borough, which sends two Representatives. It is not incorporated; but the voters are the resident owners of the houses, or, according to the resolution of the House of Commons in 1661, such free- holders only who had estates for life or in fee. It did not send Members till the 1 st of Elizabeth, when Thomas Green- acre and Walter Hoot on were returned. PeJidle-hill makes a conspicuous figure on the south side of the plain : the sides are verdant, the top moorish and very extensive. On this stood Malhin Tower, celebrated in 1633 for being the rendezvous of witches. Seventeen poor wretches were condemned, on perjured evidence : the affair was scrutinized into, and the poor convicts set at li- berty # . A witness swore he saw them go into a barn and pull at six ropes, down which fell flesh smoking, butter in lumps, and milk as it were flying from the said ropes, all falling into six basons placed beneath : and yet, mortifying reflection 1 the great Sir Thomas Brown, author of the book against vulgar errors — and Glanvil, one of the first pro- moters i *' Webster on Witchcraft, 277, &e. 80 CLITHERO. moters of the Royal Society, which was instituted ex- pressly for the detection of error and establishment of truth, were sad instances of credulity in the most absurd of all circumstances. On this hill are two large cams, about a mile distant from each other : these were more probably the ruins of some ancient Speculce, or beacon towers erected by Agricola after the conquest of the country. There is another, of more modern date, which answers to one on Ingleborough- hill, twenty miles to the north. From this may be seen a most amazing extent of country : York-minster is very vi- sible, and the land towards the German ocean as far as the powers of the eye can extend. Towards the west the sea is very distinguishable, and even the Isle of Man by the assistance of glasses: to the north, the vast mountains of Ingleborough, Wharnside, and other of the British Apen- nines. The other views are the vales of Ribble, Hoddcr and Colder, (the first extends thirty miles,) which afford a most delicious prospect, varied with numberless objects of rivers, houses, woods, and rich pastures covered with cat- tle ; and in the midst of this fine vale rises the town of Clitliero, with the castle at one end, and the church at the other, elevated on a rocky scar : the abbey of Whalley about four miles to the south, and that of Salley as much to the 4 north, CLITHERO. 81 the north, with the addition of many gentlemen's seats scattered over the vale, give the whole a variety and rich- ness rarely to be found in any rural prospects. It is also enlivened with some degree of commerce, in the multitude of the cattle, the carriage of the lime, and the busy noise of the spinners engaged in the service of the woollen ma- nufacture of the cloathing towns. In 1 138, when David I. king of Scotland, invaded Eng- land, an inroad was made into these parts by William, son of his bastard-brother Duncan, who headed a band of Gal- wegians. Near this place they were opposed by a consi- derable body of English. By the first impetuous onset of the Galwegians the latter were overthrown, numbers slain and made prisoners, and vast ravages committed by the conquerors*. From Clithero I paid my respects to John Aspinal, esq. of Standen-hall, about a mile south of the town, to whose hospitality and attention I think myself highly indebted. In order to enable me to fulfil the end of my journey, he did me the favour of pointing out several neighbouring places extremely worth visiting. I had the pleasure of attending him, on a very pleasant ride down the vale, and m for * Sir David Dalrymple's Annals of Scotland. 1. 72. §2 ROMAN ROAD. for a considerable way along a Roman road, that runs, very visibly elevated, from Clithero Moor, through the fields of Standen Hay, Little Mitton, and to Whalley Moor, and is supposed to cross the Calder at Potter's-ford, and go by Salesbury-hall, pointing to the eastern gate of Ribchester, It takes a northerly direction from Clithero, Moor, and goes by Gisburn towards Gargrave, a supposed camp of Agri- cola, where a fine tessulated pavement has been found*, and from Skipton by llkly, or Olicana, over RamwalcCs Moor, and from llkly to York\. We forded the Ribble, opposite to Great Mitto?i, a vil- lage in YORKSHIRE, with a church, seated on a high bank above the river. The church is dedicated to St. Michael-, is a vicarage in the presentation of Edward Weld, esq. Within is a pro- fusion of magnificent tombs in memory of the Sherbornes oi Stanihurst, in this parish. The most antient now re- maining is of Sir Richard Sherborne, and Maude his wife, daughter of Sir Richard Bold. He was Master Forester of Rowland Forest, Steward of the Manor of Sladebum, and Lieu- * Rauthmelfs Antiq. Breinetonacenses, 16. 42. f Drake's Hist. Fork, 1$. MITTON. 83 Lieutenant of the Isle of Man, He died in 15QQ; she in 1588. They both lie recumbent in alabaster — he in ar- mour, with short hair and long flowing beard. In the last century was remaining at Mitton a more an- cient tomb than any here mentioned, for Sherborne, thus inscribed : — " Orate pro anima Ric: de Sher bourn, et pro " anima Hamerton uxoris suae, AS. MSGCCCXLi. " Obiit prsefatus Ric : et erat hie tumulatus in die As- " sensionis Dni nostri Jesu Christi, cujus anjmae propitie- " tur Deus, Amen!"— (MSS. in Bibl. /. C. Brooke de Coll. Arm.) A mural monument of another Sir Richard Sherbom and his Lady, kneeling : he armed : she in a ruff, with a black hood turning from behind over the top of her head; her dress black, with hanging sleeves. Three altar-tombs, with recumbent figures in white marble, with long hair, and loose gowns over their coats : one has his Lady lying by him. All of them are of the name of Richard, and each is spurred and placed cross- legged ; but I doubt whether any one had obtained the privilege by a visit to the Holy Land : probably it meant no more than that they lived and died good Catholics. These m 2 tombs 84 MITTON. tombs were erected by Isabel, the wife of one of them, whose effigy makes the fourth figure. Against the wall is the figure of another Richard, a. child standing and contemplating a scull and other bones scat- tered on a cushion beneath. He was born in 16Q3, and died in 1 702. A long inscription on a mural monument records the good done by his father Sir Nicholas Sherborn, who took much pains to have his poor neighbours in- structed in the art of spinning. He was created a baronet by James II. ; the title was extinct with him in 1717- His daughter Mary, wife to Thomas duke of Norfolk, inherited his fortune : she set up this monument, and another to the Honourable Peregrine Widdrington, whose epitaph she com- posed. It is supposed that after the death of the Duke she was privately married to him, but, through pride, kept her marriage concealed, notwithstanding they cohabited till the day of his death. All the epitaphs on these masses of marble are uncommonly dull. The manor of Mitton was formerly the property of the Family of Sotheron. Thomas le Sotheron was returned as Lord thereof in the record called Nomina Villarum, made 9 Ed. II. 1316. Sir John Sotheron, knt. had an only daughter, Isabel, his heir, married about 41 Ed. HI. to Walter MITTON.— STONYHURST. 85 Walter de Hawkesworth of Hawkesworth, near Otley, who had with her, besides this manor, eighty marks in portion. In this ancient family it continued till Walter Hawkesworth of Hawkesworth esq. sold it to Mr. Serjeant Aspinal, a short time before that gentleman's death. From Mitton I rode a little north, and crossed into Lan- cashire over the rapid river Hodder, which falls into the Ribble a little below the village, and, with the Calder, gave rise to this distich : " The Hodder, the Calder, the Ribble and rain, " All meet in a point on Mitton desmen." The house of the Sherboms lies about one mile from Hodder --bridge \ in an advantageous situation. It is a lofty and large building of different periods, with a court in the middle. The gateway is very magnificent, ornamented with the pillars of the different orders, placed in pairs one above the other. This part is said to have been built by Sir Nicholas. The apartments in the house are large : here is a vast hall, and a larger gallery, eighty-six feet in length, and above that another of far greater dimensions. This house appears to have been built in the reign of Elizabeth, when greatness more than conveniency was consulted: the 2 gardens 66 BASHAL-HALL.-- WADDINGTON. gardens are in the old taste, and decorated with statues. The place (with 70001. a year) was left by the Duchess of Nor/oik, (who died in 1754,) to her heirs at law, the Welds of Lulworth-castle, in Dorsetshire, descended from the only sister of her father, Sir Nicholas Sherborn, bart. This place is now deserted for Lulworth-castle, the more eligible and noble residence # , in the west of England. I repassed the Hodder into Yorkshire, and rode towards BashaUhall, once the property of the Lacies, and granted by them to their relations the Talbot s, who enjoyed it many centuries. It afterwards passed to the Ferrers and the Walmslies ; and by the marriage of the daughter of the last of that name with Joh?i Lloyd, esq. of Gwerklds in Merionethshire, is in the possession of my countryman. The view from this part is very beautiful, into the vales of Ribble, Hodder and Calder. The first divided into num- bers of wooded risings, bounded at a distance by lofty bar- ren mountains, among which Pendle-hill, Penygent, and the more distant Wharnside, soar pre-eminent. The road from hence is singular, along the top of a great ridge, with sloping fields on each hand. A mile from Bashal- hall, in the bottom, lies Waddington, a small village with a church and hall of the same name. The church is a cha- pelry * See the View of it in Hut chin's, Dorsetsh. 1. 140. WADDINGTON-HALL. 87 pelry to Mitton, dedicated to St. Helen. Here is a neat alms-house for several poor widows, founded in 1700 by Robert Parker, esq. a second son of the House of Brows- holm in this parish, and endowed by him with a consider- able estate. The hall is a stone-house with some small ancient windows, and a narrow winding staircase within, now inhabited by several poor families ; yet formerly gave shelter to a Royal Guest. The meek usurper, Henry VI. after the fatal battle of Hexham in 1463, was conveyed into this county, where he was concealed by his vassals for an entire twelvemonth, notwithstanding the most dili- gent search was made after him. At length he was sur- prised at dinner in Waddington-hall, and taken near Bun- gerley Hipping-stones f% in Cletherwood, , The account which heland\ gives from an ancient Chronicle concurs with the tradition of the country, that he was deceived, i. e. be- trayed by Thomas Talbot, son and heir to Sir Edmund Talbot of Bashal, and John his cousin of Colebry. The house was beset; but the King found means to get out, and ran across the fields below Waddow-hall, and passed the Rib- ble, on the stepping-stones, now called Brungalay Hippens, into a wood on the Lancashire side, called Christian Pightle j but being closely pursued, was there taken. From hence he * Stepping Stones. t Collect. 11. 500. He is copied by Holinshed 666, and Stow 419. 88 WADDINGTON-HALL. he was carried to London, in the most piteous manner, on horseback, with his legs tied to the stirrups. This is the best account we have of the taking of this unfortunate Prince. Rymer has preserved the grant of a reward for this service of the estates of Sir Richard Tun- stall, a Lancastrian, to Sir James Harrington, by Ed- ward IF. dated from Westminster, July 9th, 1465 # . There is no mention in it of the Talbots, but probably Sir James having discovered Henry 's lurking-places induced the Tal- bots to assist in making him prisoner. At that time Wad- dington belonged to the Tempests, who inherited it by vir- tue of the marriage of their ancestor Sir Roger, in the reign of Edward I. with Alice daughter and heiress of Walter de Waddington. An alliance had just been made between the Tempests and the Talbots. It may be presumed, that, in order to save their estates, (which they afterwards were suffered quietly to possess,) they agreed with Sir James to give up the saintly monarch ; which was the reason that the latter had the reward for what the grant calls " his " great and laborious diligence in taking our great traitor 44 and rebel, Henry, lately called King Henry VI" But it appears that the recompense to Talbot was only deferred, * Rymer, 11. 548. WADDINGTON-HALL. 89 deferred, for in the second of Richard III. that monarch bestowed on Sir Thomas Talbot, then his servant, an an- nuity of forty pounds a year for his good services, " in taking the great adversary of ourself and our brother Edward of good memory, Henry, king in fact, but not " by right, to be paid annually out of the revenues of the " County Palatine of Lancaster*" In the east window of Waddington-chapel were formerly the effigies of Richard Tempest of Bracewell, esq. and Ro- samond his wife, daughter and heir of Tristram Boiling of Boiling, esq. kneeling, in surcoats of their arms, and this inscription : — " Orate pro anima Richardi Tempest arm. ** et ftosinte uxoris suae, necnon omnium aliorum filiorum " et filiarum praedicti Richardi et Rosince, qui istam fenes- " tram fecerunt A Dni M CCCCC°XII°." The Tempests of Bracewell and Waddington were the eldest branch of all the Tempests, but left this country for Boiling, which the above-mentioned Rosamond brought in- to the family, where they continued till ruined by the Civil Wars. A mile further is Waddow-hall, the seat of Thomas Wed- in del, * Br. Magna, 6, 423. go WADDOW-HALL. del, esq. one of the most charming situations in the north of England, placed on the side of a round and insulated hill rising out of the plain, varied with woods and beautiful sloping lawns, washed on one side by the Ribble, that runs furiously over a rocky channel. Clithero town and castle, with variety of lesser eminences clothed with trees, are among the nearer objects, while at a distance arise Pendle- liill, Penygent, and the lofty Wharnside. A succession of fine and different views appear in circuiting this happy si- tuation. We crossed the Ribble by the Hippen-stones, (which the poor Henry had hurried over,) passed through Clithero, and returned to Standen. Mr. Aspinal, in compliance with my desire of seeing the Roman station at Ribchester, did me the favour of attend- ing me there. We rode as far as Whalley, on the road I had before taken. We turned to the right, and forded the Calder half a mile beyond the abbey ; crossed Langho-gree?i, and near its small chapel dependent on Blackburn. In 798 this place was noted for the defeat of JVada, a Saxo?i leader, by Aldred king of the Northumbrians. This Wada was one of the petty princes who joined the murderers of King Ethered. After his overthrow, he fled to his castle, on a 1 hill SALEBURY-HALL. 9 1 hill near Whitby, and, dying, was interred not far from the place. Two great pillars, about twelve feet from each other, mark the spot, and bear the name of Wadas Grave. # Near it is Hacken-hall, the ancient seat of the Hackeus-, from them, by marriage of an heiress, it descended to the Walmslies, and at present is Lady Stourto?i%. We passed by Braddyl, Brockall and Dinkley-halls, now deserted seats ; and from Dinkley-moor descended a gentle slope to Sales- bury or Salebury-hall, once the Talbot s, now Sir G. War* reii's, by marriage of an ancestor with the heiress of Tal- bot of Dinkley. Our Welsh history says, that it owes its name to the founder Thomas Salebury ap Alexander ap Adam \, who lived about the time of Henry III. and whose . ancestor, Adam de Salebury, came in with the Conqueror, and made a settlement at Llewetini, near Denbigh, which their descendent possessed till it was conveyed to the Cot- tons of Cumbermere, in Cheshire, by the marriage of Hesther Salusbury, daughter and heiress of Sir Thomas Salusbury, with Sir Robert Cotton, bart. in the reign of Charles II. — The house at present is reduced into the form of a farm- house, and is seated near the Kibble, at the beginning of a plain which is continued as far as the sea J. n 2 Just * Camden, 11, 9 72. t Salesbury Pedigree. % Collins Baronets, Ed. 1720. 11. 82. In the first the house is called Salesbury Court. 92 RIBCHESTER. Just above the house the view is wonderfully romantic ; the Ribble bursts from its confined channel, between two rocks shaded picturesquely with trees, a narrow strait, through which the water gushes with great impetuosity, and forms below a pool nineteen yards deep, with a great eddy like a whirlpool, and called, from its circumgyrations, Sale Wheel, i. e. Salebury JVheel. Above this the banks are high and confined, the country rising and wooded, and the distant view is terminated in the mountainous scenery before described. I was here shewn three neat little images, one in ala- baster, the others in wood ; the first I knew to be St. An- thony, by his companion the pig. They were about ten inches long, neatly cased in wood, with folding doors, to be opened occasionally when the Saints were to be invoked. They were the Lares familiares of the former religion of our land. We crossed the New Bridge, an elegant structure of three elliptical arches. A quarter of a mile beyond stands Ribchester, a poor village, formerly a famous Ro?nan station : on its north-east side it is bounded by a little brook, on the south-east by the river Ribble, both which annually make great encroachments on the place ; the last especially, which . > * . ■ • • »• 1 • • * ■ »**• . J. . » • .. . . , • •• v. *•#« Ancient A_ltah at Ribchester RIBCHESTER. 93 which has crossed from the other side of the vale, and threatens ruin by undermining the banks on which the vil- lage stands : a row of houses and some gardens have al- ready been swept away. Except a rampart and foss near the church, there are no vestiges of the existence of the an- cient town. The evidences which remain are the multi- tude of coins and other Roman antiquities, which even to this time continue to be found there: most of them are dispersed into different places ; a few remain on the spot. Of the latter I observed the stone engraven by Mr. Horsley from the broken original. It is supposed to have been an honorary inscription to Severns and Caracalla, by the re- petition of the address. It was done by a Vexillatio of one of the Legions quartered here. A stone fixed in the wall of a small house near the church gives room to suppose that it belonged to the twentieth. The inscription is — LEG. XX VV FEC. and on one side is the sculpture of a boar, an animal I have in two other instances observed attendant on the inscriptions made by the famous Legio vicesima valens victrix. Two very curious sculptures, found here, are to be seen worked into the wall of Salesbury-court, and almost hid in the building: two sides of a very fine altar are luckily ex- posed to view ; it is dedicated to Apollo. On one front is repre- 04 RIBCHESTER. represented the Deity, elegantly leaning on one elbow, with a quiver on his back, a lyre in his hand, and a loose mantle flowing gracefully behind him. On the other front appear two of his priests in long robes and a peplum, with the head of a bull between them, ready to be sacrificed. This pillar was probably votive, either erected in gratitude for a safe voy- age made to this port, or to obtain a favourahle one from it. The next sculpture I saw was discovered in digging a grave in the church-yard of Ribchester, and is in the pos- session of Mr. Aspinal. It represents a Roman soldier car- rying the habarum vexil/um, or standard of the cavalry. — The bearer is here dismounted, as appears on the Trajan column *, that faithful record of the ancient military art. The learned reader may find in Camden and Horsley -j- the several other inscriptions, now lost. I shall only men- tion two ; one dedicated to Mars and Victory, which proves that a part of the Sarmatian cavalry was quartered here, the altar having been erected " DEO MARTI et " VICTORIA DEC . * SASIATIC AL SARMAT. "S. LL. M. I. TCC. NN." The * Jfontfaucon, iv. 103. tab. xliii. f Camden, 11, 972. Horsley, 302, &c. RIBCHESTER. g5 The other is an address to the Dece Matres, which shews that the veneration of these goddesses extended farther than was thought. The inscription runs thus : — " DEIS MATRIBVS. " M. INGENVI » VS. ASIATICVS " DEC . AL . AST "SS.LL. M." But whether they were comprehended in the religion of the officer, who was an Asiatic, or the troops also, which were Spanish, Ala astoriim, does not appear. Among other lost things, Doctor Leigh'* mentions a ruby found here — the signet, as he supposes, of some man of rank. On it was engraved Mars, with a banner in one hand, a target at his feet, and a thunder -bolt in his other hand. I rather think the Doctor mistakes the banner for a trophy, which, from several ancient gems, appears to be often carried by that deity. A ring, far more curious, was lately seen by Mr. Aspinal> in possession of a poor man, who picked it up near the river. The metal was gold, the stone a cornelian, with a bird engraven, and this tender motto — Ave, mea vita ! The * Hist. Lancashire, 82. 90 RIBCHESTER. The interpretation of Mr. Aspinal is ingenious and just. He imagines the ring to have been a present from a lover to his mistress. The bird is a raven, whom he is invoking, as Horace did the same bird, in order to have a favourable augury in behalf of his beloved Galatea* : " Antequam stantes repetat paludes " Imbrium divina avis imminentum " Oscinem coruum prece suscitabo " Solis ab ortu. " Sis licet felix ubicunque mavis, " Et memor nostri, Galatea, vivas : ** Teque nee laevus vetet ire picus. " Nee vaga cornix." " And bid good-omen' d Ravens rise, " When Phcebus gilds the orient skies, " E'er speeds the shower-boding Crow " To lakes whose languid waters cease to flow. " Happy may Galatea prove, ** Nor get unmindful of our love ! " For now no luckless Pie prevails, M Nor vagrant Crow forbids the swelling sails." Francis. The rampart and foss near the church are perhaps the remains of some strong works which guarded this ancient haven * Lib. iii. Od. 27- RIBCHESTER. 97 haven at the upper end of the Setantiorum Portus, the es- tuary of the Ribble. Not only anchors have been found here, (from which it is called Anchor -Mill) but rings of ships, and even a ship itself. The last was discovered about twelve years ago, by sinking a well for a pump. Its dimensions are not known, nor can they be found without pulling down some building with which part is now co- vered. Camden supposes this place to have been the Coccium of Antonine, and the Rigodunum of Ptolemy. Mr. Horsley in- clines to the first ; but wishes to make Warrington the an- cient Rigodunum : the learned Whitaker tells us it must be the Rerigonium of his beloved Richard of Cirencester. I will not dispute the point : it is evident it had been a Ro- man station. What we gain by these topographical disqui- sitions, is the knowledge of the means which the wise Ro- mans had of keeping so great an extent of country in sub- jection with so small a force, by the judicious choice of stations, so placed as to be a mutual aid to each other, as- sisted by roads from one to the other, so that a body of - troops could be readily assembled on any insurrection. This place was calculated for trade as well as defence. Confined as the river is now, a tide, in the time of the o Romans, 1)8 ■ RIBCHESTER. Romans, and probably long after, flowed over the whole plain, near as high as Salesbury. It apparently had been an estuary : the sight of this tract proves it on first in- spection. The flat is bounded on each side by high banks : the intervening level, on examination, proves of a different species of soil, deep, miry, and evidently adventi- tious, or of more recent formation. The retreat of the tide is supported by most excellent authority. Leland was eye- witness to its flowing more than half way between Preston and Rib chester # , at the time he made his survey, which was between the years 1530 and 1542. The tides at pre- sent never reach further than Brocket-hall, two miles above Preston, and eight from this station ; so that in less than two hundred and forty years the tides have made a retreat of three miles, the whole distance between Preston and Ribcliester being ten. What the sea has lost here, it has gained in a place not very remote ; for, in Furness, several hundred acres have been overwhelmed by that encroach ing element -f. Probably no very large ships ever came up as high as .Ribcliester, the true Portus Setantiorum,. or haven of Lan- cashire, which lay within the neb of the ness, a point which juts into the estuary not very remote from the sea, and about * Itin. iv. 23. f JV&st"s Hist. Furnese, IntrocL xxi. RIBCHESTER.— ANCIENT SEATS. 99 about ten miles from Preston. A Roman fort is said to have been on this neb, but now washed away by the fury of the tides*. Vestiges of a Roman road are to be seen pointing from Ribchester to this place, on Fulwood Moor, and also on Talwood Moor, through Freckleton\, west of Preston, which shew the intercourse there had been be- tween the Portus and the interior parts of the country. — At present the haven is in a manner lost ; the sands at the bar or mouth of the river are perpetually shifting by the high tides ; and the navigation is become so hazardous, that only small vessels venture up with coals, groceries, and other articles, which they discharge very near to Preston. Opposite to Ribchester stand several ancient seats, such as Osbaldls ton-hall, once the residence of the great family of that name, sold by the last owner about forty years ago; the remainder of the estate- he bequeathed to a distant re- lation, a friend, and a servant. A younger branch of the family still flourishes at Ilunmanby near Scarborough. A Baronet descended from this house had a fortune near Ox- ford. I remember Sir Charles, I believe the last of the title, when I was at the University, a poor profligate old fel- low, who, in all weathers, went in his waistcoat only, and, for a shilling, would at any time leap up to his neck in water. o 2 Hothersal- * Whitakcrs Manchest. 1, 180. f Wctt, 2. JVhitaker, 1. 182. 100 ANCIENT SEATS. Hothersal-hall is another, the habitation of the Mother- sals, extinct about the same time with the Osbaldistons; after the families had possessed their seats for centuries* On each side of the river are, besides numbers of other respectable houses as low down as Preston, but now de- serted, such as the Baileys of Bailey, Alstons of Alston, Radcliffs of Dilworth, Balder stone of Balderstone, South- worth of Sa?nlesbury, Hoghton of Grimsargh, Bindloss of Brockholes, and several others. It is remarkable that they all stand on the edge of the bank, embosomed once by thick woods of oak, which flourished greatly on the steep slope. This situation is another proof of a former estuary, being placed so as to be beyond the reach of the tide, and yet near enough to gain the benefit of it. The traveller who pursues the meanders of the river by Cuerdale, and from thence to Preston, cannot fail of being charmed with the beauty of the ride. I returned with Mr. Aspinal to Standen, repassed Cli- thero, and, after a ride of five miles northward, crossed a nameless brook at Smithy-bridge, and again entered the west riding of Yorkshire. ■ At a small distance from hence, near the road, stand the precincts of the Abbey of Salley, the barn, and some ivy- 5 grown SALLEY- ABBEY. 101 grown fragments. This house was of the Cistertian order, and was called De monte Sancti Andrece, founded in 1147, in the reign of Henry I. by Willi am de Perci*, son of Richard, and the same who distinguished himself so greatly in the battle of Northallerton, called the Battle of the Standard -j~. His motives were the usual ones of the time — his soul's health, and that of all his relations and friends. His endowment was small, and the situation, as his daughter Matilda countess of Warwick alleged, (at the instance of the monks,) so damp and rainy that the corn „ would not ripen ; therefore, to remove from her father the reproach of the misery and poverty of the place, (which at present is the most fertile and beautiful tract in all the country,) she enabled the monks to keep hospitality, and exert deeds of charity, by bestowing on them the church of Tadcaster, the chapel of Haslewood, and a pension out of the church of Nentho?i\. This was confirmed by her sister Ag?ies, who added, of her own gift§, pasture in her estate of Litton for a hundred and forty sheep. She after- wards gave two bovates of land in the same place, and in- creased the pasturage to sufficient for six hundred. Ma- tilda, for her merits, was considered as second founder, for the abbey was about to perish when she became its pa- troness. * Dugclale Mon. 1. 841, &c. f Dugdale Baron. 1. C?0. + Dugclale Mon. 1. 842. § Dugdale Mon. 843. 102 S ALLEY- ABBEY. troness. Her grandson, another William de Perci, was a considerable benefactor, for he bestowed on it the manor and forest of Gisborn, on payment of twenty marks annu- ally, in order to add six monks presbyters, who were to pray for his soul and that of his wife Ellen y reserving the free- holders and their services, arid the right of hunting, to him- self and heirs # . These twenty marks he afterwards be- stowed on the hospital of Sajulon in Surrey \, to maintain six chaplains for the same pious end. Other benefactors were, Robert Dapifer, or sewer to the Founder ; Robert de Laci, and John de Laci constable of Chester ; Malgerus Vavosar, Richard de Oterington, and Henry de Putcaco, sort of Matilda de Perci. The Boltons of Bolton were also great benefactors : firstly, the abbots obtained a grant of a wear upon their estates ; secondly, a moiety of the hay of Bolton ; and thirdly, in Edward T/.'s time, a fourth of the manor ^ t By the barbarous inroads of the Scots in the reign of Edward II the abbey was burnt, and the monks reduced to utter ruin. Their patron, Henry de Perci, taking pity, bestowed on them the living of Gargrave, which was con- firmed to them by the Pope on a most humble petition of Edward, * Dugdah Baron. 1. 272. t See Monast. 11, 442, and Baron. 1, 271. % Mr. Aspinal, BOLTON-HALL. 103 Edward, Dei gratia, Rex Anglice, devotus filius suns, cum devotione pedum oscula beatorum *. William Trafford, the last abbot, was executed at Lan- caster in 1538, for denying the King's supremacy. The revenues of the house were, according to Dugdale, 1471. 3s. lOd. ; to Speed, 2211. 15s. 8d. I do not find the family to which it was granted — perhaps the Greville y which had long been owner of it : the present is Mr. Wedel of Newby, who purchased it about twenty years ago from Fulke Gre-ville, esq. I crossed the Ribble at Saw ley-bridge, and, after a short ride, visited Bolton-hall. This is one of the few ancient houses which existed at least prior to the reign of Henry VI. belonging to some of the common gentry. It is a very plain building ; the hall is ascended to by several steps , it is very dark, has a timbered roof, and a narrow gallery, whose floor and staircase is formed of massy oak. The situation is on one of the collines of the country, finelv backed with wood, but little less gloomy than when it gave protection to the vagrant Henry, who by turns took shelter in the different houses of this neighbourhood. He left here behind him, as memorials, a pair of boots of brown tanned * Dugdale Monast. 1. 847. 104 BOLTON-HALL. banned leather lined with fur, the soles of a most uncom- jiion narrow form, the legs furnished with buttons in the spatterdash fashion, the tops great and high. Here are also a pair of his gloves, which shew him to have had a very small hand : these are likewise furred, but with no finer materials than the hair of the common deer. I was also shewn the spoon that Henry used to eat with; and a well, in which he is said to have bathed, which was for a long time as much venerated by the country -people as that of our St. Winifred ; for the poor Prince, from the innocency of his life, and his great sufferings, wanted nothing but canonization to make him as respectable a saint as most in the Popish calendar. This place is at present owned by Christopher Dawson, esq. in right of his mother and aunt Pudsey, heiresses of the estate. The Pudseys had been many centuries in pos- session : they came originally from Barford upon the Tees, and are said to have sprung from a natural son of Hugh Pudsey bishop of Durham, who died in 1 1Q4. In the reign of Edward II. one of his descendants married one of the co- heiresses of John de Bolton ; and from that time the family have chiefly resided here, Barford having been long since alienated. The other daughter bestowed her share of the Bolton BOLTON-CHURCH. 105 Bolton estate on Salley-abbey # . Bolton-church is about half a mile north of the hall, is dedicated to St. Peter, and a rectory in the gift of Mr. Dawson. It has in it several me- morials of the Pudsey family — such as an ancient font, said to have been brought from Forset-church in Richmondshire, in which parish stands Barford, their former seat. About the font are the arms of Percy, Clifford, Tempest and Hamer- ton. — Pudsey and Laiton quarterly ; Pudsey per se ; Banks per pale ; Pudsey and Tunstal ; and this inscription — Orate pro animabus Dni Radulphi Pudsey milit. et Rmmce uxor, ejus, et Dom. G. Pudsey, fil. ejus, quondam rector eccl. istius. A very curious altar-tomb, with a slab of black marble on the top ten feet long, five feet nine inches wide, and nine inches thick. On it is most curiously engraven the figure of a Pudsey in armour, with his arms, three mullets on his breast ; his head resting on two deer ; a vast sword hangs on one side of him, a shorter on the other. On one hand are two of his wives, on the other a third — all in mantles down to their heels ; long petticoats, vast spreading caps, and with most taper waists. Beneath the parents are three rows of their offspring, to the amount of twenty- five, distinguished by their dresses as warriors, prelates, abbots, gownsmen; besides nine daughters, in the dress of p the * Dodderidge MSS. 106 BOLTON-CHURCH. the times; and over each is the person's name, and an en- graven arch of Gothic foliage. It is probable that the tomb here described was designed for Henry Pudsey of Bolton, esq. (who had a numerous issue,) as appears by the following inscription, formerly therein : — " Hie jacet Henricus Pudsey arm. Dns de Bolton, qui " construxerat hanc cantariam M CCCCC IX° : Et Mar- " gareta, uxor ejus, quae obiit A° Dni M°CCCCC° : quor. " animabus propitietur Deus." (MSS. in Bibl. J. C. Brooke de Coll. Arm.) I continued my journey a few miles further, along a very bad road ; crossed the Ribble close to Gisburn Park, the seat of Thomas Lister, esq. member for Clithero : the ground is well wooded ; but, evening having overtaken me, I had not leisure to visit the place. The estate was (as Mr. Aspinal informed me) devised by Sir John Ashton, the last Baronet of the Lever and Whalley branch, to Thomas Lister, of Arnold Biggens, great-grandfather to the present owner, out of mere friendship. The entrance into the park is between two of the pret- tiest and richest modern Gothic lodges I ever saw, yet ap- pear full of impropriety, placed on the side of a dreadful road, GISBURN-PARK.— MALHAM-DALE. 1 07 road, and near the end of the miserable dirty little town of Gisburn, where I lay this night. There is nothing re- markable in its church, a vicarage now in the gift of the King ; formerly a propriation of the nunnery of Stainfield in Lincolnshire* : , having been bestowed by Walter arch- bishop of York, with tithes, and some lands in Swin- den \. I pursued my tour along the road to Settle, through Pay- thorne, Newso?n, and Happa, as far as Swinden, the last called a manor and township in Paghanele, in Doomsday-book; and Ghiseburne, Pathorpe, and Neuhuse, manors, in Nappar. These, and others adjoined, such as Helifield and Malham, were granted by the Conqueror to William de Perci. A little beyond Swinden I quitted the road for a more private way through Helifield, another village, between which and the next, Otterburn, is a large round tumulus. At Helifield is an ancient house called Helifield Peel, in form of a tower, with walls four or five yards thick. It is the residence of Mr. Hamerton, descended from the very ancient and wealthy family of the Hamertons of Hamerton, whose ancestor, Sir Stephen Hamerton, forfeited his estate in the time of Henry VIII. — Passed through the small p 2 town * Dugdak's Mon. 1, 506. | Tanner, 275. 108 MALHAM-DALE. town of Kirkby in Malham-dale, where there is a large and neat church, once in the gift of the Abbey of West Dere- ham in Norfolk, now of the Duke of Devonshire. The country is hilly, but not mountainous ; destitute of trees, and farm-houses and arable land, but abundant in pastur- age. The farmers live in society in the villages, and have their barns and cattle-houses in the midst of their grounds, without any adjacent dwellings; they are under one roof: here they lay up their hay, and fodder their cattle, during winter. The hills are excellent for sheep, which sell from seven to twenty pounds a score. The farms are from forty to three hundred pounds a-year. At this time were a hundred dragoon horses, which are sent here annually for the summer grass. I breakfasted at the hamlet of Malham, about a mile and a half farther ; took a walk by the side of the Air here, a rapid torrent, through a stony valley, to visit the celebrated Gordale Coves, a vast chasm open to the sky, embosomed in rock ; one side projects, and in a manner wraps round the tremendous concavity, and impends so as to form a vast hollow beneath, sloping inwards from top to bottom. The material is a solid limestone, with only fis- sures enough to admit the growth of a few large junipers above. Out of the concavity, at a vast height, bursts forth 3 a MALHAM-DALE. log a copious stream, which must have had a fine effect; but the passage having been destroyed by a great flood, much of its beauty is lost. This and another stream from Gordale- scar, a tremendous precipice a little to the west, form the river Air, which, passing by Gargrave near Skipton by heeds and Ferry-bridge, empties itself into the Qnse below Armyn-chapel. Mr. Lightfoot observed several very rare plants about these picturesque scenes. At Malham Crag, the Draba muralis, Fl. A?igl. 1, 278; and the Draba incana, Fl. Sc. 1, 338; both called in E?iglish, Whitlow-grasses, from their sup- posed virtue in that disorder of the fingers: — the Acttea spicata, or Herb Christopher, Fl. Angl. 1, 228 ; it is also called Bane-berry, a stinking plant, chiefly among the re- pellents, yet to be used with caution, as the berries are venomous ; perhaps it lies under worse repute, as toads de- light to shelter under its shade * : — the Polemonium cceru- leum, or Greek Valerian, and a variety with a white flower; the Saxifraga hypnoides, or Moss Saxifrage, FL Sc. 1 , 224 ; and the Satyrium albidum, or White Satyrion : — and on the stones of the rivulet, which issues from the crag, the Lichenoides gelatinosum foliis angustioribus uniformibus of Dillenius «J>. At f Fl. Suec. p. 181. t Hist - Muse. US, tab. ix, fig. 28. 110 MALHAM-DALE. At Gordale Cove are found also the Greek Valeria?!, and the Thalictrum minus, or small Bastard Rhubarb, or Mea- dow Rue, whose leaves, mixed with other pot-herbs, says old Gerard, do somewhat move the belly. I returned to Malham, ascended a steep hill, and crossed a range of mountains over a bad and unfrequented road, with a most dreary prospect around, of vast extent of stony mountain, mixed with scanty pasturage. Gordale-scar ap- peared to great advantage beneath, the sun shining full on it, and shewing its precipitous surface as smooth and re- splendent as glass. I saw Malham-turn in a bottom amidst the hills, a small lake about two miles round, famous for trout and perch. The waters which flow from this lake immediately sink under ground, and form a subterraneous river about half a mile in length, and appear again, in open day, bursting out from the precipice of Gordale-scar. The stones on the hills I was travelling over were abun- dantly scattered about, and of singular structure, flatted at top, and laminated beneath, evidently the work of water, and the nodular subsidences at the great event of the Deluge. Cloud SETTLE. 1 11 Cloud Berries * are found plentifully on the moors be- tween Malham and Settle. They take their name from their lofty situation. I have seen the berries in the High- lands of Scotland served as a desert. The Swedes and Norwegians preserve great quantities in autumn to make tarts and other confections, and esteem them as excel- lent antiscorbutics. The Laplanders bruise and eat them in the milk of rein deer, and preserve them quite fresh till spring by burying them in the snow. I descended an exceedingly tedious and steep road, having on the right a range of rocky hills with broken precipitous fronts. At the foot of a monstrous lime-stone rock, called Castleberg, that threatens destruction, lies Settle, a small town in a little vale, exactly resembling a shabby French town with a place in the middle. Numbers of coiners and filers lived about the place, at this time entirely out of work, by reason of the recent salutary law respecting the weight of gold. I dined here at the neatest and most comfortable little inn I ever was at, rendered more agreeable by the civility and attention of the landlady. This is a market town, and has a small trade in knit-worsted stockings, which are made . , here * Rubus Chamaemorus, Fl. Scot. I, 266. Hudsoji, 1, 221. 1 1 2 SETTLE.— GIGGLESWICK. here from two to five shillings a pair. The great hill of Penygent is seen from hence, and is about six miles distant. Settle is destitute of a church; its parish is that of Gig- gleswick, higher up the vale, which I passed after crossing the Ribble, which hurries from its source a few miles higher, on the back of Wharnside-hill, between Blea-moor and Snays-fell. This parish was one of the most ancient manors belong- ing to the Percies. I believe it to have been included among the eighty-six in this county granted by the Con- queror to William de Perci, one of his Norman followers # ; but the first time I find mention of the manor of Settle, as their property, is in 1230, the fifteenth of Henry III. f A little beyond the village, the road is continued on the right side of the vale, beneath a long and lofty scar of the same name. It runs for a mile in length ; the height de- creases with the ascent of the road, but preserves a level on its top the whole way. This scar is of white limestone, finely overgrown with ivy, has a mineral appearance, and bits of lead ore, found in forming the turnpike-road, give earnest of important discovery. The * Dugdale's Baron. I, £69. t The same > P- e7L EBBING WELL. 113 The famous flowing spring lies on the road side beneath Ebbing Well. this scar. It is a well of small size, which ebbs and flows once in a quarter of an hour, and sometimes with that force as to rise a foot high. I watched it for some time, but it happened to be quiescent ; my patience was ex- hausted, and I pursued my journey. The Potentilla verna, ox Vernal Cinquef oil, Fl. Sc. 1, 270, is found near this well ; and those who delight in mosses, may discover, on the adjacent rocks, the Lichen crinitus and polyrhizos, Fl. Sc. 11, 860 and 864. From this spot I had a fine view of Pendle-hill, which appeared quite insulated. On gaining the summit of the road, the Apennines of England appeared full in view ; the tops often rise into little mounts, and the sides very rocky. On the left is a flat bounded by heathy hills, and intermixed with dreary moors. I passed through the village of Clapham. The cure is a vicarage in the diocese of Chester, as most of this country are. From hence I had a full sight of Fur ness -fells, which form a magnificent mass in the distant view. a I de- 1 1 4 INGLEBOROUGH-HILL.— PLANTS. I descended to Ingleton, a small town and chapelry in the parish of Rentham, seated at the foot of the great mountain of Ingleborough, which looks like Ossa upon Pe- lion, and is well described by Camden, as stretching with its vast back rising towards the west, with another hill, as if flung upon its extremity. I had not leisure to visit it ; but was informed that it was well worth a traveller's atten- tion, on account of the immense caverns it abounds with, and the various plants very rare in other places. This is reckoned the highest ground in England in respect to the sea, and I believe with truth. Its situation is pretty cen- tral, and its cumulated acquisition of height very great. — Its name shews its pre-eminence — Ingleborough, the bo- rough, berg or hill of England. Several rivers arise with- in this chain, which take their courses into different seas : - the L#7Z any country — Thomas Shaw, the celebrated traveller, was born here in lu*Q3 : he was son of Gabriel Shaw, shearman and dyer, a reputable and profitable business. The merit of his travels in Bar bary, Egypt, and the Holy hand, are justly held in the highest estimation, and beyond the danger of being either depreciated or superseded. He became Fel- low of Queens College, Oxford, and was promoted to the Headship of Edmund-hall', and, in 1 75 1 , died in high repu- tation, for knowledge, probity, and pleasantry. His coun- tenance was grotesque, but marked most strongly with jo- cularity and good-humour, so as to diffuse into the com-, pany the full effects of his innocent and instructive mirth. The print prefixed to his works is a faithful representation of this excellent and able character. 5 The • • • •••.•- ••- •- • • • ". • •• . 1 •«•■•• " • . ••*. • : • . . °*. • •• > ••• '"&&am-Arf'?c"'' ' Thomas $hla.w. J?Zf. 2*u,b Ju.rie 7 ?B0? &ts Sdtv JfarvOn? #6 J^all MetU -v. if black and dreary mountains. I rode very near to Shap, R men- * Burn's, Hist. 1, 30, &c. Burn. 122 DOCTOR BURN. mentioned in my former Tour # , and, leaving it to the left, passed along an unpleasant tract, mostly waste, about six miles further, to Orton, or Overton ; principally induced Rev. doctor from the wish to see the Reverend Doctor Burn, author of the Justice of Peace, and joint publisher with Joseph Nicolson, esq. of the History and Antiquities of Cumberland and Westmoreland. To these Gentlemen this Journal is much indebted : to the former, every country gentleman, who assumes the useful character of the magistrate, owes the greatest obligation for the clearest and safest guide in his intricate and laborious office. I had the satisfaction of dining with the worthy author, and may add, that to other public services he encourages the inclosures of the open lands, which will give to future times cheerful and plenteous harvests, in places where poverty and negligence seem now to reign. I continued my journey across some commons towards Kirkby Stephen, about eleven miles distant. Not far from Or ton, I passed by the Lune, near the spot where it begins its southern direction ; kept to the east along a turnpike- road in a narrow vale watered by the Lune, here a small stream, which I lost again to the south, where it takes its rise * Tour in Scotland, 1769, V- 277. . » > ' ' » * B 53 XJ 4 ti 5j p 1, H 1 g i i fc ■ o . ». & •* K ^ ^ H i F % *« J . I. » • > ... . • ' ' . • ' • ■ DR. FOTHERGIL.— KIRKBY STEPHEN. 123 rise at no great distance in Greenbelt-fell ; crossed the north end of Ravenston-dale, a parish which had the ho- nour of giving birth to the late pious, benevolent, learned and humane Divine the Reverend Dr. George Fothergil, Rev. Doctor . . Tlill • r r • • FOTHERGIL. under whom 1 had the happiness or tour years tuition at Queen's College, Oxford. He was of a respectable family in this dale, and reckoned among his ancestors Sir William Fothergil, standard-bearer to Sir Thomas Wharton at the battle of Solway Moss. I reached Kirkby Stephen, a small town in a most fertile Kirkby STEPHEN' bottom, prettily wooded, and bounded by verdant hills. It consists of only one street most irregularly built, and enjoys a small manufactory of knit-worsted stockings. The place takes its title from the church, which is dedicated to St. Church. Stephen. It belonged to the same Ivo de Tailebois, who bestowed it on the Abbey of York. Notwithstanding the patron saint was St. Stephen, the old great bell was dedicated to St. Hugh — S. Hugo, or a pro nobis! On the new great bell is this memorial : ** Cum sono busta mori, cum pulpita vivere disce." On the little bell the founder wishes to immortalize him- self by these lines : — " Be it known to all men that me se, " Thomas Stafford of Penrith made me." R 2 In \ 124 KIRKBY-STEPHEN TOMBS. Tombs. J n the church are numbers of monuments : among them is one of a Knight in complete armour, neck alone bare, short hair, gauntlets on his hands; he lies on a fine altar- tomb, with six niches on each side elegantly carved, but at present robbed of the images. This is called the tomb of Sir Andrew de Harcla earl oi -Carlisle, and once owner of the neighbouring castle of the same name ; but it is not probable that such posthumous honours would have been permitted to have been paid to a person who suffered to the utmost rigour the punishment of treason. By the arms it appears to belong to a Musgrave, and possibly to Sir Tho- mas de Musgrave, purchaser of the lands of the forfeited Harcla, and who died in or about the fiftieth year of Ed- ward III. A plain altar-tomb of black marble is seen beneath an arch, on which is this inscription : — " Hie jacet Ricardus " Musgrave, miles, juxta Elizabethan! uxorem ejus, et Tho- " mam filium et hseredem eorum, qui obiit IX S die Novem- " bris anno Domini MCCCCLXIIII. cujus animse propiti- " etur Deus! Amen." On the arch are the Musgrave arms, supported by a monkey and pelican. The Lady was daughter of Sir Thomas Betham of Betham, in this county, a family of great antiquity, extinct in the reign of Hen- ry VL* On * Bum, l, Sg4. • .1 . •• ■ *,»*<# 1 •«.. >.'», * • • • ». •••• • ••• • • •• • AjSTCJLEJVT Sfiri/PTURBS aX RIB CHESTER Anciewt Tomb Stone in JOrkbyStephbn Chttuch L ,*is / '80/ iy ^du- Set-*^i V; KIRKBY-STEPHEN TOMBS, 125 On the floor is a stone, with a cross engraven on it, a shield with six annulets, the Musgrave arms, and a sword beneath it. This seems to have belonged to some religious warrior of the name, unless it commemorated a Lowther, who bore the same arms ; one of the name possessed the first grant of Harcla, after the death of the unfortunate owner. In a part of the church called Wharton-isle, belonging to Whar ton-hall, is an altar-tomb, with the effigies of Tho- mas lord Wharton on the top in armour, with short hair and a long beard. On one side of him is his first wife Eleanor daughter of Bryan Staple ton esq. of Wighill, Yorkshire ; on the other his second wife Anne daughter of George earl of Shrewsbury : the sleeves of one of the Ladies are of a most enormous length. This nobleman was Governor of Carlisle in the thirty-third of Henry VIII. and was greatly instru- mental in the infamous defeat, or rather flight, of the Scots at Solway Moss ; and in the first of the following reign, he, in concert with the Duke of Lenox, invaded Scotland, and destroyed Annan, the church of which was most obsti- nately defended *. He died in 1508. The following in- scriptions on the tomb give his history : " Thomas * Ridpatlis Border History, 563. 126 HARCLA-CASTLE. " Thomas Whartonus jaceo hie: Hie utraque conjux; " Elionora suum hinc, hinc habet Anna locum. '.' En tibi terra tuum, carnes ac ossa resume ; " Tu Caelos animas, tu Deus alme, tuum." At the east end of the tomb are these lines : " Gens IVhartona genus dat honores dextera victrix ** In Scotos. Stapletona domus mihi quam dedit uxor " Elionora fecit ter bina prola parentum : u Binam adimunt teneris, binam juvenilibus annis " Fata mihi ; dat nomen avi mihi bina superstes. " Anna secunda uxor celebri est de gente Salopum." Harcla- The castle of Harcla stood on an eminence at a small CASTLE. t distance from Kirkby Stephe?i. This, and the manor of the same name, as part of the great barony of Westmoreland, was granted by King John to Robert de Veteripont, ?l most potent baron of Norman descent, who died in great power, and highly trusted in the reign of Henry III. This barony continued in his male heirs till the death of his grandson Robert, who was slain at the battle of Evesham, where he took part with the Barons. He left two daughters, Isabella and Ivetta, oftener styled Idonea. The King committed these Ladies, being then very young, to the guardianship of Roger de Clifford of Clifford-castle in Herefordshire, and Roger HARCLA-CASTLE. * 127 Roger de Leybourne. According to the custom of the times, and the real intent of the trust, as soon as the heir- esses were of proper age, they were married to the sons of their guardians — Idonea to the son of Leybourne, and Isa- bella to Roger eldest son of Clifford. On a partition of their fortunes, Harcla-castle, among other places, fell to the last. This was the Clifford slain in the attempt to pass the Menai into Caernarvonshire, on the invasion of Wales by Edward I. * On the attainder of his grandson Roger for adhering to the faction of the Earl of Lancaster, this place, with several others in these parts, was granted by Ed- ward II. to Sir Andrew de Harcla, originally of an obscure Sir Andrew di family, which took its name from the manor and castle of Hartley or Harcla, in this parish. The rise and fall of Sir Andrew were equally rapid. He was high in favour with Edward II. was appointed Lord of the Marches, Sheriff of the county of Westmoreland, and Governor of the city of Carlisle, an honour he had also enjoyed in the preceding reign. Hearing of the march of the Earl of Lancaster, to- wards the north, to favour an invasion of the Scots, he sud- denly advanced with what forces he could collect, and, posting himself on the banks of the Ouse at Boroughbridge, checked the progress of the rebellious Prince, who at first attempted * Tour in Wales, Vol. II. 234—5. 4 1 28 SIR ANDREW DE HARCLA. attempted to corrupt Harcla by bribes, after a repulse he met with in endeavouring to pass a ford at a small distance from the town. Finding Harcla firm to his trust, and hearing that Humphrey de Bohun, earl of Hereford, was slain in a valiant effort to pass over the bridge, then made of wood, he lost all courage, was taken in a chapel in the town, and, seized with a prophetic spirit, predicted to Sir Andrew his ignominious end. Harcla, on this, was loaded with honours ; was created Earl of Carlisle, with remainder to the male heirs of his body, the first instance of the kind known; and was besides rewarded with most considerable grants. He did not enjoy his good fortune above a twelve- month; for, in 1323, envying the favour shewn by his mas- His Fall. .. ter to the D'Espensers, he most ungratefully confederated with the Scots, and, entering into a league with Robert Bruce, bound himself by writing and by oath to maintain Robert and his heirs on the throne of Scotland. It is highly suspected that he favoured the inroad of the Scots into York- shire, where Edward was very nearly taken at the abbey of Byland*. Harcla was suddenly seized by Henry Eitzhugh by order of the King, and very shortly brought to a trial, condemned to suffer the death of a traitor in all its rigour, after being formally degraded, by having his sword taken from his side, and his spurs chopped from his heels, the an- cient * Leland'% Collect. 11. 466. » ■ * > ■ .... 1 4 ft»C» ' , . , . ' * T* «• Hi Eh « 4 WHARTON-HALL. 120 cient penalty of recreant knights ; all which, on March the second, was instantly executed at Carlisle # . Scarcely a wreck is left of the castle, which stood on an eminence above the village of Hartley. On the attainder of the Earl of Carlisle, the manor was granted to Ralph Nevil baron of Raby, who sold it to Thomas de Musgrave, in the posterity of whom it still continues. The castle was enlarged and improved by Sir Richard Musgrave, Knight of the Bath, and the first Baronet of the name, who died at Naples in 1615. For a long time it was kept in good repair, and with Eden-hall alternately inhabited ; but was demolished by the late Sir Christopher Musgrave, who removed the materials to repair his other seat. One morning I took a ride to Whar ton-hall, about two Wharton- miles to the south of Kirkby, seated on the Eden, and, till the ruin of the family, in a noble park, at present occupied by farmers. This had been from very distant time the resi- dence of the well-known name of the Whartons. The anti- quity of their stock is far higher than the herald's record. A considerable family flourished here as early as the reign of Edward I. Yet the first which is mentioned in the Col- lege is Thomas de Wharton, in^the time of Henry VI. who s held # Rymer\ Feed. 111. p. 999. \ 130 WHARTON-HALL. held the manor from Thomas de Clifford. The house is almost a ruin, and had been very large. In the kitchen are two vast fire-places, and in the hall one twelve feet wide, melancholy testimonies of the former hospitality of the place, I could not avoid enquiring after the celebrated Duke " Wharton, the scorn and wonder of our days, " Whose ruling passion was the lust of praise: " Born with whate'er could win it from the wise, " Women and fools must like him or he dies : " Tho' wond'ring Senates hung on all he spoke, u The Club must hail him master of the joke. " Shall parts so various aim at nothing new? " He'll shine a Tully, and a Wilmot too. " Then turns repentant, and his God adores, " With the same spirit that he drinks and whores. " Enough if all around him but admire, " And now the Punk applaud, and now the Friar. " Thus with each gift of nature and of art, " And wanting nothing but an honest heart, " Grown all to all, from no one vice exempt, " And most contemptible to shun contempt : " His passion still to covet gen'ral praise, " His life to forfeit it a thousand ways : " A constant bounty which no friend has made ; " An angel-tongue, which no man can persuade ; tt WtTrntMivf Sc Philip Dure of Wharton iv 2>:.t\< .'/.trjtno 96 Tall Mall ■ ■ I "' . . • • - - - • • < • . . • *. s 3 b 4 4 c % B a- • »»♦ » * » • • • « * • • « . . • • . ■ ■ • • •• • •••• *• « • * ..... • •• • < M A H 3 1 i I PENDRAGON-C ASTLE. 1 3 1 " A fool, with more of wit than half mankind, " Too rash for thought, for action too refin'd : " A tyrant to the wife his heart approves ; " A rebel to the very King he loves : " He dies, sad out-cast of each Church and State, - " And harder still flagitious yet not great. " Ask you why Wharton broke thro' every rule ? " 'Twas all for fear the knaves should call him fool." I discovered that people now living well remembered this British Clodio, and bear witness to the justice of the description of the profligate part of his character ; of his affecting to hunt upon Sundays, and shewing in all his ac- tions an equal contempt of the Laws of God and Man. I proceeded along a narrow vale watered by the Eden, and passed by a very ancient square tower called Lamer side-hall, formerly by the sad name of the Dolorous Tower. Some- thing was told me of a Sir Tarquin and Sir Caledos, so that probably the place had been the subject of dire adventure. About a mile further I reached Pendr agon- castle, a small pe ND ragok- but strong square building, with great marks of age on all its parts. The foundation of this castle is ascribed to the great British hero, Uther Pe?idragon, the father of the greater Arthur. It is notorious what feats Pendragon ac- s 2 complished CASTLE. 1 32 PENDRAGON-CASTLE. complished by art-magic, assisted by his friend the sage Merlin. By his aid, he assumed the form of King Gorlois, deceived all his guards, and, during his Majesty's absence on an important siege, got access to the fair Queen Igerna, and passed a rapturous night with the unwitting charmer in the castle of Tintagal*. Notwithstanding this, the river Eden baffled all his attempts to make it surround his new fortress — a Queen was an easier conquest. " Let Uther Pendragon do what he can, " Eden will run where Eden ran." It still preserves its old course, and a deep foss on the more defenceless side supplies the place of the obstinate stream. A well near it commemorates another piece of history relative to our Prince : in this it is said the trea- cherous Saxons, who did not dare to face him in the field, flung poison ; he drank of this his favourite spring, and, with a hundred of his courtiers, fell victims to their vil- lainy *f\ I will not insist on this great antiquity of the castle ; it possibly may have been British : it is of a square form, of vast thickness, and with rudeness enough for an early period. It certainly is of very long standing, having been, as Anne Clifford informs us in her Diary, the beloved seat * Jeffrey of Monmouth, lib. viii. p. 19. \ Same, c. 24. PENDRAGON-CASTLE. 1 33 seat of Idonea, daughter of Robert de Veteripont, a lady who died either in the latter end of Henry III. or begin- ning of the reign of Edward 1. Little of its history is preserved : it was burnt in an inroad of the Scots about the year 1341 ; was restored and sunk again in that of 1541, it having, as the inscription informs us, lain ruinous from that year to 1660, when it was repaired by the celebrated heroine Anne, who relates in the same inscription that she came to lie in it herself for a little while in October l66l. We are informed in her Diary, that she took up the design as early as the year 1615, for the purpose of making it a library for a Mr. Christopher Wolridge, who probably never lived to the time in which she was able to bring it into execution. The inscription at the conclusion refers to this most apt text : " And they that shall be of thee shall build " the old waste places : thou shalt raise up the foundations " of many generations, and thou shalt be called the repairer " of the breach, the restorer of paths to dwell in." Isaiah, ch. lviii. verse 1 2. — No person ever merited the application so strongly. She restored six of the castles of her ances- tors, Brough, Brougham, Appleby, Bar den Tower, Skip- ton, and that in question. To give an easy access to the castle, she built the neighbouring bridge over the Eden, and at a small distance beneath the castle she built stables and other offices, but their place is only marked by the ruins. She 1 U WILD-BOAR-FELL. She restored seven churches or chapels ; founded one hos- pital, and repaired another; lived in great hospitality by turns in each of her castles, on the beautiful motive of find- ing occasion to lay out the produce of her vast estates among her tenants, or the indigent most deserving of her charity*. » The view from the castle southward is along a valley Wild-boar- terminating with Wild-boar -fell, which impends with a great cape-like head over the country, soaring to a great height, and at its base is the fountain of the river Ede?i. I Sten crake- returned to Kirkby over Stencrake-bridge, a single arch, of a great height, flung over the Ede?i from rock to rock : above the river it forms a lofty cataract, and rushes over a most rugged channel, shagged with trees — a most pic- turesque scene! Below the bridge is a bason of water four- teen feet deep. In the low state in which I saw it, the waters pass through so narrow a gap in the stone that I spanned the top with my hand, but just beneath it has worn the channel to a great width. Above the bridge the rock is hollowed into multitudes of circular holes, from one foot to six in diameter, and from the depth of six inches to that of two yards, according to the space in which they have been formed. The channel is quite honey-combed with * See more in Tour in Scotland, 1772, Vol. II. p. 359. BRIDGE. STENCRAKE-BRIDGE. 1 35 with these giant's-pots, as they are called in Sweden. — They certainly are not Druidical, as some have conjectured, but owe their formation to the vortiginous fury of floods, which whirls about the pebbles or gravel with such force as to bore, I may say, these singular cavities. Out of the eleven townships in this parish, only two are freehold ; the rest are what are called in this county cus- tomary tenants, holding their lands from the lord by a small but fixed acknowledgment, and a fine on the death of the possessor. None of these can vote for members of Parlia- ment ; none can sell them without consent of their lord ; none can leave them from their son by will; and, in case of want of a son, the eldest daughter is heiress. The posses- sor cannot dispose of any part by will, but must provide for his younger children by a deed. These tenures, which pervade I believe through the county, arose from grants made in ages when land was of little value, and bestowed by lords on their villains, as a relaxation of the severity of vassalage. I then left Kirkby-Stephen, and continued my journey three brough. or four miles northward to Brough ox Church Brough, a vil- lage noted for its ancient castle, probably built on the site of the Roman station Verterce, where was placed a band of 3 Directores, 136 BROUGH-CASTLE. Directores*, a sort of soldiery supposed to have been em- ployed as guides. The castle which they occupied gave the name which it retains at present, a little corrupted, the Roman appellation to their castlelets being Burgus \ ; and numbers of places abroad, as well as in Britain, retain the name, either simply or in addition, for the same reason, such as Wurtzburg, Ausburg, and others ; and the Roman mount at Leyde?i still preserves the name of the Burgh. — I cannot trace the founder of the present castle : from the square form of the towers, it was certainly of Norman origin, —probably very early, for in 1 174 it was garrisoned by the E?iglish, and taken by William king of Scotland in an in- road made by him in the absence of our great monarch Henry, but which soon after lost him his liberty, being de- feated and taken by some gallant leaders on his retreat from the siege of Alnwick. It had been a considerable place : some square towers remain ; the Keep, called Ccesars Tower, is the most considerable. At one side of the castle are the ruins of a rounder, an addition it must have received long after its foundation. It had been protected by vast fosses; those on one side are double, and have between them a high space, possibly the very site of the Roman Burgus. This castle was the property of Robert de Veteripont, and passed through * See the Notitia in Horsley. t Vegetius, lib. iv. c. 10. and the comments on it. • **• X 9 V I « 1 £-* ■ta |mr ■5) X f [J 1 5 M -1 H N w * BROUGH-CHURCH.— HELBEC-HALL. 137 through his descendants to the great family of the Cliffords. Henry lord Clifford, surnamed the Shepherd, kept here a magnificent Christmas; soon after which, in 1521, it was accidentally burnt down, and continued in ruins till it was restored by his celebrated descendant Anne Clifford, as the inscription over the gate, (similar to that at Pendragon,) before it was taken down, recorded. The church stands below the castle. It is in the gift of Casam, Queen's College, Oxford. The famous Robert de Eglesjield, Confessor to Philippa the royal consort of Edward III. and founder of that College, procured the grant of it from the King : he himself had been Rector of the living. He was prosecuted by the Bishop for non-residence; but pleading the necessity of attending the care of the royal conscience, easily obtained dispensation : ever since which time, it is said, the King's chaplains plead the same excuse; which is admitted i>y our courteous Bishops, who well know the weight of the charge. On leaving Brough, I saw, on the right, Helbec-hall, seated Helbec-hall. in a wood. This, and the manor of the same name, had been the property of the He/bees as early as the reign of Henry II. In that of Edward II. it passed into the family of the Blefikensops, by a marriage with Isabella, daughter t and 138 WARCOP-HALL. and heiress to Thomas de Hellebec, knight of the shire for the county, and last male heir of the name. The Blenken- sops flourished here till the time of Charles I. when one of * the name of Thomas alienated the estates of the family. Warcop-hall. On the left is Warcop-hall, once the property of a most ancient and considerable family, but transferred by sale, in the time of Queen Elizabeth, to the Br ait hwaites : it of late years passed into other names. I traversed Sandford -heath, over which runs the Roman road, which is continued through the county from Brotigham by Verterce, thence by Stanmore, and Maiden-castle, a small Roman fort, and again by Rerecross, where there is another small fort, near which it enters Yorkshire, pointing in a line to the station near Greata-bridge. Small encampments are still to be seen on the heath, and some ttimuli of a considerable size. The country to the right is bounded by rude rocky fells, and to the left rises prettily into small in- closed hills. From an eminence I had a fine view of Appleby-castle, and the windings of the Eden beneath its lofty wooded banks. In descending I passed by the little church of Bondgate, so called from its having been in feudal times 3 the .•> •••• ...■. * • » » • • * 1 s s Pi «1 APPLEBY. 13Q the seat of the villains or bondsmen attendant on the castle. It is likewise, from its tutelar saint, called St. MichaeVs. This was one of the churches repaired by the piety of Anne Clifford. After crossing a bridge guarded by a gateway, since pulled down, I entered the small town of Appleby, Appleby. consisting of a single street irregularly built on the steep slope of a hill : on the summit is the castle. * There are no remains of the ancient structure except a square tower called C&sar's, insulated from all other buildings. The principal edifice, of a square form, was built in 1686, by Thomas earl of Thanet, out of the ruins of the old castle. In the hall is a copy of the great picture of George Clifford ear\ofCu?nber land, and his family, taken from that in Skipton. I will not re- peat what I have so fully described in another place. Here is also preserved the magnificent suit of armour worn by him in the tilt-yard as champion to his royal mistress : it is richly gilt, and ornamented with fleurs de lys ; his horse- armour, of equal splendour, lies by it. The history of this hero, and his heroic daughter Anne Clifford, is related in that of the picture. I shall only add, that she often sat in person as hereditary Sheriff of the County of Westmoreland in this castle, an honour brought into her family by her ancestress Sybilla, and which had been conferred on the great-grandfather of that lady, Robert de Veteripont, by King t 2 John, 140 APPLEBY. John, and continued to her descendant the present Earl of Thanet, who, in right of this his great ancestress, owns also Skipton, Pendragon, Brough, and Brougham-castles, and I believe Barden-tower in Yorkshire. The assizes are held in this town, and the Judges entertained at the expence of the Sheriff. I cannot trace the original founder of the castle ; but, from the style of the square tower or keep, conjecture it to have been of the same aera with that of Brough and other Norman castles of the country. Doctor Burn says, that Thomas lord Clifford built the greatest part as it now stands; but it is evident that part was the work of the last century, and the keep long before the days of that fierce Baron. — The town, and probably the castle, had suffered many mis- fortunes from the inroads of the Scots. There was a castle here in 1 1 74, which was committed by Henry II. to the care of Gospatric son of Orme, who, in 1 175, was fined five hundred marks, and several of his officers in lesser sums, for delivering it up to William the Lion, in his barbarous inva- sion of the north. In 1388 the town underwent a stroke which it never recovered, having been totally burnt and wasted by those cruel invaders ; so that, on requisition made in the reigns of Henry VIII. and of Philip and Mary, it was 4 found APPLEBY. 141 found wholly unable to pay the usual rent of twenty marks to the Crown, which was reduced in future to 26s. 8d. # The spirit of Anne Clifford appeared very fully in the be- ginning of the troubles of the last century ; for, in defiance of her disloyal simpleton, she fortified this castle for the King, and gave the government of it to her neighbour, Sir Philip Musgrave\. It remained in possession of the Loy- alists till October 1648, in which year it was surrendered to Lieutenant-General Ashton\, with five Knights, twenty- five Colonels, nine Lieutenant-Colonels, six Majors, forty- six Captains, seventeen Lieutenants, six Cornets, three En- signs, five pieces of cannon, one thousand two hundred horse, one thousand stand of arms, and all the baggage ; being the army which had blockaded Cockermouth, and which had retreated to this town on the approach of Ashton. Appleby had been a place of great extent and importance; At one period it seemed to have been put on a level with the city of York, for Henry I. bestowed on it equal privi- leges : York had its charter bestowed on it in the morning, and Appleby in the afternoon of the same day. Henry III. gave another charter, in which all things were like York §. In the reign of Edward J. it had a Mayor, and two provosts, who * Burn, 1, 309- t Burn, 1, 310. % Whiteloch, 343. § Camden 11, 990.. 142 APPLEBY. who signed the public acts with the mayor, but at present are degraded into two attendants, who follow that magis- trate with halberds. The borough sends two Members to Parliament, a privilege first obtained in the time of Ed- ward I. * The town had formerly been of vast extent ; for Burrals, i. e. borough-walls, shew its limits on that side, now a mile from the inhabited remains. Bondgate, Dungate, and Scatter gate, mark its former entrances at places at pre- • sent very distant. That a Roman station had been at or near this town, is very certain ; and most probably at the Burrals, which might preserve that name through pre-emi- nence of antiquity. The Learned differ whether Abbalaba or Galacum was the proper appellation : some contest, from similarity of sound, that it must have been the first. Mr. Horsley^, by the more certain rule of observing the dis- tances in Antonines Itinerary, proves it to have been the latter. It stands on the Roman road, and some antiquities have been found in its neighbourhood. Numbers of in- scriptions are preserved in a wall near the public school, placed there by Reginald Balnbridge the schoolmaster, in the time it was visited by Camden. There is no certainty of any of them having been found at Appleby, and several were copied * Willis's Notitia Parliam. f 454. APPLEBY. 143 V copied on stone from originals now lost, but found in other places; and many are said to have been altered according to his fancy, with a singular conceit. He has given, of his own composition, three inscriptions cut a F antique, which stand with the others. The first is historical, and settles the time in which the Romans had a station here ; then gives the time in which it suffered from the ravages of the Scots ; after that comme- morates a scourge of the pestilence, and finally the removal of the market to Gilshaughline. The last was occasioned by the plague, of which a hundred and twenty died in the town and parish. The next inscription is in memory of the founders of the school ; and the third is a tribute he pays to his own — " ABALLABA QVAM C C. " FLVIT ITVNA. STATIO FVIT " RO. TEMP. MAVR. AREL. " HANC VASTAVIT. F. F. "GVIL. R.SCOT. 1176. " HIC PESTIS SiEVIT 1598 " OPP. DESERT MERCAT " AD GILSHAVGLINE. " DEVM TIME." 144 APPLEBY. « ROBERTO LANG " TON ET MILONI « SPENSER QVI " APPLEBI^E F: F. " HANC SC " H. M. OBM. P.R.B.P." « R. BAINEBRIG "HOC^D. HIPOD " IDASCALS D.D. " IN P P. 1606." The church is at the lower end of the street, sufficiently signalized by containing the remains of Anne Clifford and her excellent mother. The last lies beneath a fine tomb, on which is her recumbent image. She is dressed in a long cloak, which quite covers her to the feet, leaving only her face and her buttoned jacket visible: on her head is a coro- net, and round her neck a small ruff. She was the mis- treated wife of the celebrated George Clifford earl of Cum- herland, a hero above the tender feelings of relationship or conjugal affection, devoted to deeds of arms, or feats of chivalry in honour of his great but romantic mistress. He paid the debt to Nature several years before his Lady, and with a penitence for his harsh usage of her, which did honour to < s V o % VL s U u i 5 1 v % .... • ««■ .,:. COUNTESS OF CUMBERLAND'S TOMB. 145 to both parties. She died at Brougham-castle on May 24, 1616. She lived his wife twenty-nine years, and survived him ten years and seven months, as the inscription imports. The monument was erected by the Daughter in the following year, on which are these lines : " Who faith, love, mercy, noble constancy, " To God, to virtue, to distress, to right, ** Observ'd, express'd, shew'd, held religiously, " Hath here this monument. Thou seest in sight " The cover of her earthly part ; but, Passenger, " Know, Heaven and Fame contain the best of her." The Earl of Cumberland was married to this Lady against his own consent, when very young, by his guardian the Earl of Bedford, whose daughter she was : they ever lived very unhappily together; and it appears by her daughter's Diary, that she had a very great spirit, and took little pains to conciliate his affection. A mural monument records the death of her illustrious daughter, who died in the same castle, after an illness of three or four days, on Mareh 22, 1(375, full of years and glory, aged 85. Beneath is an altar-tomb, without any image, or, I think, inscription. These are said to have been erected by herself, many years before her death. For u the 1 4 TOMB OF ANNE CLIFFORD. the keeping these monuments in repair, and for other uses, she purchased lands in Temple- Sower by, and, by deed dated February 2, 1650,, appointed trustees for the execution of her intent. On the tomb is the following inscription, ex- tremely inadequate to the greatness of her character : " Here lies, expecting the second coming of our Lord " and Saviour Jesus Christ, the dead body of the Lady ** Anne Clifford, daughter and sole heir to George Clifford " third Earl of Cumberland, by his blessed wife Margaret " Russel Countess of Cumberland; which Lady Anne was " born in Skipton-castle, in Craven, the 30th of January, " being Fryday, in the year 15QO, as the year begins on " New-year's-day; and by a long continued descent from " her father, and his noble ancestors, she was Baronesse " of Clifford, Westmoreland, and Vesey, High-sheriffesse of ** the county of Westmoreland, and of the honour of Skip ton- •' castle aforesaid. She married, for her first husband, Richard " Sackville earl of Dorset, and for her second husband, " Philip Herberte earl of Pembroke and Montgomery : leav- " ing behind her only two daughters that lived, which she " had by her first husband; the eldest, Margaret countesse " of Thafiet; and the youngest, Isabel countesse of North- « amp/ on. Which Lady Anne Clifford countesse dowager of " Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery, deceased at her castle . . 5 " at ALMS-HOUSE. 147 " at Brougham, the 22d day of March, in the year of our ** Lord 16*75, christianly, willing, and quietly, having V before her death seen a plentiful issue by her two ** daughters, of thirteen grand-children : And her body lyes " buried in this vault.'* Another more useful monument of her piety remains in the town, in form of an alms-house for twelve poor widows, and a superior called a mother, each of whom has a house' and garden. The mother has (according to my informa- tion) ten guineas a year, and the others eight ; and the mi- nister of Appleby for the time being, eight pounds in case he reads prayers to them, every day except Sunday, in a small chapel belonging to the house. For these purposes she bought lands in Brougham and St. Nicholas, and left them vested in trustees. At the time of the dissolution, here was a house of Car- melites or White Friars, said to have been founded by Lord Vesci, Lord Perci, and Roger Clifford, in 1281. After the suppression of the abbies, Henry granted it to Christopher Crackenthorpe of Newbiggen in this county*. A ruin ad- joining to the town-wall may possibly be the remains of the friary. ■ u 2 Heft * Tanner, 588. 148 CRAKENTHORPE. August 14. Craketn- THORPE. I left Appleby, repassed the bridge, and went through the village of Clippergate, not far from its foot. About two miles farther, I rode through Crakenthorpe, or the Village of Crows, in the northern dialect Crakes, most likely from there having been here a rookery. The hall has been the residence of the Machebs, a family noted for their gallant actions, and for never rising into the degree of knight, nor sinking into that of yeoman. The name was frequently written, in old times, Mau-chael and Machael — Latine, malus catulus — Anglice, sad puppy. From the last, the anti- quarian of the house suspects that Whelp-castle (hereafter to be mentioned) took its name from this family, and that De Whelp-dale was of kindred not remote ; which last is fully confirmed by its bearing three young greyhounds for its arms, as the Mau-chaels did, a spurious dog with a forked tail — ex Grteco et Tigride nato. He also infers, that, from the Latin name, (which was doubtlessly the ori- ginal,) they were derived from the Catuli of Rome, which gives a descent from the Conqueror of the Cimbrians, and all the illustrious race. The country in this morning's ride was far from fertile. On the right runs a long range of lofty fells, with a Pikes. row of pyramidal hills rising at their base, called here Pikes. Similar hills in different countries bear names not dissimi- 3 lar : KIRKBY-THORE. 14Q lar : the French bestow on them that of Pic ; the Italians and Spaniards, that of Pico. About four miles from Appleby, on the road side, I saw a large Roman camp, with works of defence before each a Camp. entrance. Its length is about three hundred yards, its breadth about half; and not far from it, a small fort. Near the road side, have been found, urns with ashes in them # , in the middle of a round pit lined with clay about a yard in depth, it i&Nf being customary for the Romajis to inter near the sides of the public ways. Not far from it was a pit of a like form, containing ashes and bones, without any urns ; so probably was the burial-place of some common people, as the other was of persons of better rank. At a small distance to the right is the village of ifoW'^y- Kirkby-Thori;. Thore. The addition is attributed to the supposition of a temple, dedicated to the Saxon Thor, having stood on the spot. This Deity was represented as a regal figure with crown and sceptre, and a Glory of twelve stars around his head. He was the Chief of the heavenly power, the Jupiter Tanarus of our German ancestors, the Prince of the Air, the Director of Thunder, Lightning and Tempests ; the Dispenser of Fair Weather, and consequent Plenty: — to whom * Burn, I, 351. 150 BURWENS. i whom Thursday was dedicated under the name of Thor's- day, and more expressively of his qualities under that of Thunres-deag, and in the Netherlands in more modern times Dimders-dagh. A very curious coin, or perhaps amulet, was discovered in the beginning of this century, which fully shews the form in which this Deity was figured. It has, on one side, his head with the Glory around, and a sceptre in his hand : on the reverse are Runic characters, Thur gut Laetis, i. e. The Face of the God Thor : it was of silver, and of the size of a silver groat. Such pieces it was customary for the northern nations to strike, with their Gods represented on them in form of a human face ; and these they kept by them as tu- telar deities, and preservatives from all ills*. . A place of still greater antiquity was till of late years discoverable in its neighbourhood, the Roman Brovonaccz, Burwens. which retains its sound in Burwens, the present name of its site. Whelf s-castle was another appellation, which was derived from the first Lord of this manor, Whelp, who lived in the reign of King Stephen, or that of Henry II. It remained in his posterity some centuries : in the time of Henry VI. John Wharton, supposed to have been a cadet of Wharton- * See Camden, 11, 992. Thoresbys Hist. Leeds, 339- TEMPLE-SOWERBY. 151 Wharton-hall possessed it ; and it lately remained in his descendants, two Ladies, co-heiresses of the place *. It chiefly stood near the rill Troutbeek, near the Eden ; as appears from the foundations disturbed by the plough. A square inclosure, called High Burwens, containing about eight score yards in diameter, says Doctor Burn 4-, was its area ; but the extent of the outward works reached beyond the Roman way or high street of Kirkby-Thore y most of which, as well as the manor-house, was built out of the ancient ruins. In most parts, traces of it may be seen in vaults, conduits, pavements both flagged and tiled, foundations of walls, brick and stone ; and coins, urns, altars, and other antiquities are frequently found. An altar is preserved in the walls of the old school-house at Appleby, dedicated to Belatucader, or Mars \ : " DEO BELATVCAD " RO. LIB. VOTV « M FECET. " IOLVS." About a mile further is the village of Temple-Sowerby, Temple. a manor once the property or the potent order of Knights "Templars. Their great wealth and power rendered them insolent * Burn, I, 375, 379. f 1, 379, 380. % Horslei/, 298. 1 52 THREE BROTHERS TREE. insolent and formidable. Under pretence of crimes of the most horrid nature, their persons were seized, their riches confiscated, and their order totally suppressed in 1312. — After an interval of eleven years, this manor was bestowed on the Knights Hospitallers, in whom it continued till the dissolution, when Henry VIII. granted it, with several others, to Thomas Dalsto?i esq. originally of the ancient family of that name in Cumberland. It remained in the male line till of late years, when it devolved to William Norton esq. in right of his wife Mary, sister to Sir William Dalston knight, the last male heir of this branch. Not far from thence I turned a little out of the road, to the left, to see the remains of one of the famous oaks called the Three Brothers. Only the ruins of one are to be seen at present — an almost barkless trunk about thirteen yards * in circumference, with only two branches which give any signs of life. It is hollow from bottom to top, and would make an excellent observatory for the star-gazing philosopher. The tract in which it stands is JJliinfel-park, an ancient appur- tenance to the Lords of Brougham-castle. It was in old times covered with vast and venerable oaks; but it now ap- pears a barren waste, here and there shaded with birch trees. If * According to Dr. Burn, for I did not measure it. * • • J J * * Three, Brother Tree JPub Jtt*Us 7 2S&1 by- ^dw Mardmo $8 2*0,21 MxZt ".'•:'% '. / : J/J: i FAMOUS CH ACE. 153 If the Hart-horn oak exists, it escaped my notice. Mr. Brooke, Somerset Herald, told me he had seen an ancient tree in the road leading from Penrith to Appleby, not far from Ladys Pillar, said to be Harts-horn Tree, which road is over a part of Whinj "el-park, that has been inclosed. It took its name from a pair of stag's horns nailed on it, in memory of a famous chace, in the years 1333 or 1334, be- Famous Chace. tween a greyhound named Hercules, and a stag. They are said to have run from this park to Red Kirk in Scotland, and back again : that the stag had just strength enough to leap over the pales, within which it died. Hercules, in at- tempting to follow, fell down, and died on the outside. — The horns of the stag were nailed on one of the oaks ; and, in process of time, being lost in the growth of the tree, another pair were nailed on, and, to record this wonderful chace, the following lines were inscribed : ** Hercules killed Hart a-greese, " And Hart a-greese killed Hercules.*" But Dr. Burn justly observed, that it is much more pro- bable that the chace was to Nine Kirk, or the Church of St. Ninian, a place on the Ei?not, within the verge of the forest, than to Red Kirk in Scotland, a. distance so remote as to take away all credit from the relation. x I re- * See Camden, 11, 994. Burn, 1, 3.9,8- 1 54 OCTAGONAL PILLAR. I returned into the great road, and, after a ride of two miles, saw, close to the way, a handsome octagonal pillar,, . with dials on two of the sides ; on another, six annulets, the arms of Vipount, who brought the Brougham estate into the Clifford family, and those of the noble Lady in memory of whom the pillar was erected, viz. Clifford im- paling Russel, surmounted by an Earl's coronet; and on another the following inscription, in memory of her last parting with her mother the Countess Dowager of Cumber- land, who lies interred in the church of Appleby ; " This Pillar was erected, anno l650, " By the Right Hon. Anne Countesse Dowager of " Pembroke, and sole Heir of the Right *' Honourable George Earl of Cumberland, &c. " For a memorial of her last parting in this place " With her good and pious Mother the Right Honourable " Margaret Countesse Dowager of Cumberland, " The second of April 161O. In memory whereof, " She also left an annuity of four pounds, " To be distributed to the Poor within this " Parish of Brougham, every second day of April, " For ever, upon this stone table. " Laus Deo ! ,f The column and stone-table are in good repair, and the annual ,,//•, /A A*. Stim~r\m' JV. A nv :x as C mB" pori)'^ Col xt;m jv 1 . ■ .' ■'■ r ../. '80t. &y -Et/zt- 7 fst/;/ in. ■/..<*# Pail M. i • • ' ' • ,- « . ** • * * • ■» • ■'• -'"■•: '■;■ '•:;::• : BROUGHAM-CASTLE. 1 55 annual oblation is still made, according to the will of the charitable donor. CASTLE, About a mile further stands Brougham-castle, seated on Brougham- the Eitnot, a vast and lofty pile, square, and with square towers, slightly salient from some of the corners. It had been owned by the Cliffords, and passed through their de- scendants to the present Earl of Thanet. On its site, or perhaps near to it, had been the Roman station Brovocum, or Broconiacum. The ancient fortress might have been on an artificial rising near the river, opposite to the Countess's pillar: and I conjecture, that the more modern castle was erected on the site of the old mansion owned by the Vete* ripo?its, predecessors to the Cliffords ; for, after the death of John de Veteripont, complaint was made that the Prior of Carlisle, guardian to his son, had suffered the walls and house of Brougham to go to decay for want of repairing the gutters and the roof, and that certain bercarys, or sheep-folds, had fallen down, for the length of five score feet, for want of support. Whether he began to build this castle, is uncertain : probably he had not leisure to undertake so great a work ; for, as soon as he came of age, he engaged with the rebellious Barons against his So- vereign Henry HI. and was slain, either at the battle of Lewes, or that of .Evesham. It should seem to have been x 2 founded 1 5 (3 BROUGHAM-CASTLE. founded by his son-in-law and successor Roger de Clifford. Over an inner door was the following inscription : " THIS MADE ROGER." Which by some is construed ambiguously, and to signify that his fortune was made by so great an acquisition. Yet round the castle there was no more than eight score acres of arable land, worth four-pence each; forty of meadow, worth twelve-pence ; three cotterels, or cottages, worth twelve-pence each; and a water-mill, worth twenty shillings yearly. The finishing of this noble pile was reserved for Roger de Clifford, great-grandson of the first Roger. He enjoyed his vast fortunes in peace, was a lover of archi- tecture, built the eastern part of the castle, and caused his own arms, and those of his wife Maude, daughter of Beau- champ earl of Warwick, to be cut in stone : a pool to this day bears the name of the Lady. He died in 13Q1. An upper room in one of the towers, a curious octagon, is a proof of his taste ; as is an arched apartment in another, supported by an elegant octagonal pillar, with eight ribs diverging from its capital along the roof. Francis earl of Cumberland here entertained James I. during three days, in 1 6 1 7, on his return from his last progress into Scotland. From that time it fell into decay, till it was restored by its great BROUGHAM-MANOR. great owner Anne Clifford. Here she yielded her last breath, and the ruin of this and several of her other castles quickly followed. 157 The manor was independent of the castle, and had its own lords. It was held by Odard de Burgham in the 22d of Henry II. ; a Gilbert de Burgham held it about the be- ginning of the reign of Henry III. ; from which time to I believe the present it continued, with slight interruption, either whole or divided, in the same name, or, as it was latterly written, that of Brougham ; which family is now in entire possession of the manor. Manor. Soon after I left the castle, I crossed the river Lowther near Brougham-hall, the seat of the family above mentioned. A little to the south is Clifton, out of which twenty-two quarters of oats were, in old times, annually paid to the Castle of Brougham. Similar revenues were drawn from other places, which made up for the want of territory round this strong hold. Clifton. In the short space between the Lowther and the Eimot lie the antiquities called Arthur's Round Table and May- brough-castle. In the last edition of my first Tour in Scot- land, 6 1 5 8 CUMBERLAND— PENRITH. land', I have said as much as I could collect respecting those curious remains. Eimont- I crossed Eimont-bridge. In the reign of Henry VI. there was a general contribution towards the building, or, , • perhaps, rebuilding of this bridge. The piety of the coun- try was made an instrument of so good a work ; an indul- gence of forty days was bestowed upon every well-disposed person who flung in his mite to forward the design. I then entered the County of CUMBERLAND. • On the right, finely seated on an eminence above the river, is Carle ton-haV, the property of the Carletons, who flourished here almost from the time of the Conqueror till the beginning of the present century,' when Robert Carle- ton, esq. sold the estate. The family is not extinct ; Sir Guy Carleton, the present Lord Dorchester, being of it. Penr*th. I soon reached Penrith, and can add very little to the account of this place in my Scotch Tour. I received, in this visit, every civility and information from Mr. Harrison surgeon, who introduced me to Miss Calw'm, to whose in- genuity PENRITH.— NEW OUZEL. L50 genuity I have before paid the tribute due. She was so obliging as to present me with a beautiful drawing of a sin- gular or perhaps new species of Water Ouzel, shot ,some- new Ouzel, where in this neighbourhood. It was rather superior in size to the common : the head, wings, upper part of the body, and tail, were dusky ; the chin and throat white— at the bottom of the last was a bar of dusky ; the breast, belly and thighs white, marked with short black strokes pointing downwards, most numerous towards the lower belly and . thighs ; the vent of a rusty yellow, crossed with bars of black ; legs rusty yellow. To what I may have omitted in my account of this town, let me add, that there had been here a house of Grey Friars, founded in the time of Edward II. or before, and after the dissolution granted to Thomas Tyrwhit, esq. # Agnes Den- ton\, a good widow, in the reign of Edward III. left to- wards the support of these poor monks, her mite of ten shillings-. William HI. bestowed the honour of Penrith with all its dependencies, 'with the appurtenances within the forest of Englewood, on his great favourite William Bentinck duke of Portland. His Majesty at the same time made a grant of the * Tanner, 77- f Burn, 11, 410. 1 60 PENRITH. the lordships of Denbigh, Bro?nfield, and Yala, in the princi- pality of Wales. The Welsh grew clamorous, and simply resisted the grant, till the King was obliged to revoke it. — Had it passed, it is not impossible, but, from the chances and changes in human affairs, these royal favours had been brought to market, and every squire in their neighbour- hood had a chance of accommodating himself with his con * veniency. I commenced, at this town, an acquaintance with Mr. William Hutchinson, the antiquary of Bernard-castle-, an attorney of very fair character, and author of the View of Northumberland, the History of the County of Durham, and of the Excursion to the Lakes-, works very justly esteemed. I then left Penrith, and rode eastward ; had, from an emi- nence, a most charming view of a rich bottom, watered by the river, and ornamented with Brougham-castle ; crossed part Eden-hall, of E?iglewood-forest, and reached Eden-hall, a very plain large house seated on the river Eden, amidst beautiful grounds well planted. The Stapletons held this estate dur- ing five generations. At length, Joan, daughter and one of the coheirs of Sir William Stapleton, knight, transferred it to Thomas de Musgrave, who died in the reign of Edward IV. It remains in the possession of his descendant, Sir Philip Musgrave, EDEN-HALL. 161 Musgrave, who makes the place one of his residences. I have before had occasion to speak of that respectable fa- mily. The hall is a handsome well-proportioned room, forty- two feet by twenty-four, and richly stucco'd. In the apartments I observed a Head of Sir Christopher Musgrave ; the dress, a great wig, cravat, and armour. He was early initiated in war by his heroic father Sir Philip, who bore so large a share in the transactions of the North during the Civil Wars of the last century : engaged deeply in Sir George Booth's effort to restore the Royal Family ; and after the Restoration, received, during the three Stuart reigns, rewards suitable to his loyalty. In that of Charles II. he was made Lieut. General of the Ordnance ; in that of Queen Anne, one of the Tellers of the Exchequer. He died, in an ad- vanced age, in 1704. A Head of George Legge lord Dartmouth, a gallant sea- officer, who had distinguished himself in many of the des- perate actions in the Dutch war. He was entrusted with the fleet which was to oppose the invasion of the Prince of Orange, but the winds frustrated his zeal to serve his fated Sovereign. He disapproved of his measures, yet, through excess of friendship, adhered to him at all hazards. On y the 162 EDEN-HALL. the Revolution, he was deprived of all his great offices : he continued his attachment to his late master, and offered to take the command of the French fleet, which was to assist in the new Revolution set on foot by Churchill and other unprincipled promoters of the merited deposal of the late King. On the discovery of the conspiracy, Dartmouth was committed to the Tower, where, after three months im- prisonment, he died, at the age of forty-four, on October 25, I69I. William, with true heroism, directed that the same respect should be paid to the remains of his generous enemy, as if he died in possession of every honour he enjoyed in the reign of the exiled Prince. A Head of Sir Richard Hutton, on wood. This excellent man was father-in-law to Sir Philip Musgrave, and one of the Judges of the Common Pleas in the reign of Charles I. He and Sir George Croke were the only Judges who decided against the Crown in the great cause of ship-money. He was a man of inflexible integrity ; so that Charles, not- withstanding his high notions of prerogative, used to call him " his honest Judge*." He was designed for holy or- ders ; but, by the persuasion of George earl of Cumberland, applied himself to the law. In respect to the thoughts he once * Fuller'?, British Worthies, 2 19, who says he was born at Penrith. Burn, 1, 597, calls him of Gouldsborough in Yorkshire. EDEN-HALL. 1 63 once entertained of entering into the Church, he never would take a fee of a clergyman. He died in 1638. James earl of Derby, a Head ; another of his gallant Countess. These noble personages had so high an opinion of Sir Philip Musgrave % as to intrust to him the defence of the Isle of Man, which he did to the last extremity, under the Countess : at length surrendered on honourable terms, and obtained leave to retire where he pleased into any part of England. A Head of Anne Clifford at the age of eighty, and ano- ther when she was young. I was informed that it was customary with her to present a great house-lock and her picture to all her friends in the neighbourhood. A pint glass, enamelled with colours, called the Luck Luck of Eden- IT AT | (Palladium) of Eden-hall, is carefully preserved here. The Family Legend says, that it was left on the margin of a foun- tain by a Fairy, and was to be the safeguard of the house. On the top are the letters I. H. S. which shew the sacred use from which it had been perverted. In later times it was consecrated to Bacchus. In the church are the figures of a man and woman in eden -church. y 2 brass, 1 64 EDEN-CHURCH. brass, as I mentioned before — Sir William Stapleton, knight, who died in 1458, and Margaret de t Vipont, his wife, whose daughter and coheir Joan married Thomas Musgrave of Musgrave, esq. and brought this place into the present family. Here are, besides, various mural monu- ments ; many of them cenotaphs of several of the family, who are interred in the church of the Trinity in the Mi- nor ies, London, the burial-place of the Dartmouth Family, to which the Musgraves are allied* . In a window is painted Ceolulfk'mg of the Mercians, and his admired Saint Cuthbert, to whose monastery in the isle of Lindesfarn, the pious Prince, after nine years spent in vanity, retired : there he passed the remainder of his days, and was interred close to the body of the Saint \. In the same window is the figure of a Bishop, with the head of an ancient King in his hand. t ■ Not far from hence I crossed the Eden, here a beautiful stream, and the banks finely cultivated. After riding about three miles northward, I saw, in the parish of Addingha?n, long Meg. the noted Druidical Temple called Long Meg and her daugh- ters. The circle is formed of sixty-seven rude stones placed upright, and of unequal heights : all are placed single ex- cept * Collins, 1, 82. t Crcssy's Church Hist. 592. LONG MEG. 165 cept near the entrance, where there are two stones placed without, opposite to the two which form the entrance and part of the circle. Long Meg, as the tallest stone is called, stands sixty-one feet west from the portal, and just oppo- site to it : it is eighteen feet high, #nd fourteen in its great- - est girth ; is composed of red grit stone, as the others are ' of granite, lime, and free-stone. The area of the circle was covered with corn, so I must borrow its diameter from Mr. Hutchinson, who informs us it is of three hundred feet *. I refer the curious reader to the learned Borlase^- for an account of the uses of these circles. Whether this was designed for religious purposes, for national assemblies, for election of Princes, or for the celebration of games, as cer- tain circles in Caernarvonshire are reasonably supposed to be, I cannot possibly determine. Nothing is left on which to found a conjecture. It might have stood in a sacred grove of oaks, the shade of which added solemnity to the rites, were they religious : were they political, the people might have stood without the circle of stones, prohibiting a nearer approach to the vulgar ; if the former, the Arch- Druid might have stood near the lofty stone of distinction, his entrance through the portal might be preceded by an awful * Excursion to the Lakes, 108. f Antiquities of Comical, 183. Tour in Wales, 11,309- 1 60 DEFEAT OF LEONARD DACRE. awful procession, and sacrifices and all the fourberie of priestcraft be performed in the centre of the area within sight of the trembling crowd. Deadman's After descending a hill, I passed by a wooded glen called Stack. Deadmaiis Stack, remarkable for being the spot on which DefeatofLeo- Leonard Dacre was defeated in 156Q, by Lord Hunsdon, narj) Dacre. j who put an end to his rebellion. This gentleman was of the great hoilse of Dacre, and second son of William lord Dacre, who left four sons — Thomas, Leonard, Edward and Francis. Thomas left one son and three daughters. George, the son, was killed in his childhood in 156Q, by "a fall from a wooden horse ; and the three sisters became co-heiresses, two of whom were matched by Thomas duke of Norfolk, (who married their mother,) to two of his own sons by former wives — Anne, the eldest, to Philip earl of Arundel -, and Eli- zabeth, the youngest, to his second brother Lord William. It is probable that he intended to bestow the second daughter on his second son; but she was taken away by death. Thus this vast northern property was conveyed into the house of Howard. Leonard contested, by law, the right of his niece to the estate, and lost his cause. For a time he concealed his discontent; insidiously offered his service to Elizabeth to quell some insurrections then in the north, and was in- trusted with the business. He entered into a conspiracy 4 with KIRK-OSWALD. 167 with Northumberland and other malecontents; raised forces in the Queen's name, consisting chiefly of the banditti of the Borders ; and seized on Gray stock, Naworth-castle, and other places belonging to the Dacres, under pretence of securing his own property and resisting the rebels. His designs were discovered, and Lord Hunsdon marched against him from Berwick. They met at this place, and the field was warmly contested. Leonard performed all that could be expected from the most gallant commander. At length, after great loss of men, he was obliged to retire into Scotland', from thence fled to Louvain*, where he died in great poverty, under a slender pension from the King of Spain. The vale now expands, and has a rich appearance. I reached Kirk-Oswald, a small town on the east side of the Kirk-Oswald. Eden. A considerable estate adjacent belongs to Sir Philip Musgrave, having been purchased by his father Sir Christopher from the co-heiresses ; from Le?inard lord Dacre, created Earl of Sussex by Charles, on the merit of having married a daughter of his by the Duchess of Cleaveland. Lord Dacre acquired it from a Lennard, Lennard from a Fynes, he from the Dacres-, again they from a Mutton,. Multon from Hugh de Morville, and, finally, De Morville from * Camden's Life of Queen Elizabeth, in Kennet, 11. 423. 1 68 KIRK-OSWALD. from his wife Helwise, daughter of a Stotevil. Hugh de Morville was one of the murderers of Thomas Becket, the turbulent priest of the reign of Henry II. who a thousand times had merited a legal death : but the manner was as horrible, as the scene was impious. No peculiar judgments followed the assassins, as superstition feigned; no tails issued from behind, to mark them as so many Cains, as the monks alleged; no sudden deaths overtook them. William de Tracy lived almost to the reign of King John, and Hugh de Morville till about the sixth year of that monarch*. In the second he obtained licence to inclose his woods at Kirk-Oswald, to fortify his manor-house, and to have there an annual fair and weekly market^. Nor did his remorse seem to have been very deep, if it is true that he preserved the sword with which he did the murder \. A Thomas de Multon enlarged and strengthened the castle ; John de Castro, who married his widow, gave it more security, by new works ; Thomas Dacre added a large ditch, and beau- tified it at great expence. A Mr. Sa?idford, quoted by Dr. Burn, speaks of it as a most capital grand castle, and that it was the fairest fabric that eyes ever looked on ; that the hall was an hundred yards long, and on the roof was por- trayed * Littleton, v. 354. \ DugdaWs Baron. 1. 610, 611. Burn, 11, 424. % Philemon Holland, in his edition of Camden, first mentions it. See page 777. BRITISH NAMES. 169 trayed King Brute and all his successors Kings of Eng- land. Very little of this magnificent castle remains ; some scanty ruins mark its place. Mr. Sandford speaks of it as standing in the time of the Dacre earl of Sussex, who re- ceived his title in 1 074. Not long before the dissolution, the church was turned into a College of twelve Secular Priests. All the glebe- lands and tithes are the property of the old family of the Feather stonhaughs. The college was converted into a College. mansion-house of that family, and was called by Mr. Sand- ford a noble one. I quitted the banks of the Eden, and, keeping still north- ward, crossed some black heaths, which are succeeded by a country rich in barley and oats, a narrow vale bounded by coarse hills. Those to the east are a continuation of the great fells. At their bases, the land runs parallel, in great waves. The fells are distinguished by the names of their respective parishes, such as Croglin, Cumrew, and Castle- Carrock. These, and numbers of others in this county, were Remains op genuine British. The first is slightly corrupted from Crog- BritishNames - Lly/i, or the Hanging Rock; the next, Cumrew, from Cum a small hollow or recess in a mountain, and Rhiw a z brow; 170 BRITISH NAMES. brow; and Castle-Carrock is plainly Caste ll-carr eg, or the Castle on the Rock. I will add a few more instances, such as Cam-rew, i. e. cam rhiw, or the bending brows; Cryglin, i. e. cryg llyn, or the pool of the tumulus-, Garth, or the side of the dingle-, Bl en-cairn, from blaen a point or end, and cairn a heap of stones ; Glen-carn-beck, i. e. glen cairn bach, or the little stoney valley; Galligil, i. e. gallt and cyll, or the hill of the hazel-trees ; Rig is found in several of the composed names, and signifies a barrow or tumulus; and, finally, Derwent-water is derived from derwen an oak, from the abundance of those trees which grew about that beautiful lake. This county remained under the dominion of the Britons very long after the subjection of the rest of the kingdom by the Saxons; and, like Wales, retained its own princes and language, I believe, till about the year 945, when Edmund the elder put an end to the Cambrian kingdom, and bestowed it on Malcolm king of Scotland*. I passed near Talkin Tarn, a small lake. Talhin is a corrupt Welsh word from Talcen, a front : Tarn is a piece of water, a very old northern word, derived, according to Dr. Johnson, from the Icelandic Teorne. From the road I digressed a very small distance to Gelt- bridge^ * Saxon Chron. 115. GELT-BRIDGE.— BR AMPTON. 1 7 1 bridge, a single arch over the torrent Gelt, which tumbled down, in a very picturesque manner, a deep wooded fell. About half a mile above, on the front of an ancient quarry, is an inscription, supposed to have been cut in the reign of Severus ; importing, that the Romans got some o£ the stone with which they made the neighbouring part of the famous wall from hence, and the Vexillatio was sent to assist in the work. I heard that there were other inscriptions on the neigh- * bouring quarries, but I did not think them interesting enough to be visited. After riding a mile and a half further, I reached Bramp- Brampton. ton. The town is small, and contains nothing remarkable. The alms-house, founded by Edward Howard second earl of Carlisle, for six poor men and six poor women, has been suffered to fail by one of his successors! Each of the ob- jects of the charity had, while it existed, a pension of six pounds, a gown and fuel, and an apartment. Twelve pounds a year was also allotted to a clergyman to read prayers in the chapel, which alone is kept up, the church of Brampton being a mile out of town, and too ruinous and too remote for service. 2 2 The 1 72 GILLESLAND. Castle-hill. The Moat, or the Castle-hill, is a vast circular mount near the town : not far from the top is a trench and ram- part; and on the last, in one part, is a ridge of raised earth, about fourteen feet long and four broad. As it lies so near to the wall, it was possibly exploratory, and the work of the Romans. Gillesland. This town was the capital of the great barony of Gilles> land, a tract before the Conquest possessed by one Bueth, and which took its name from Giiles Bueth, i. e. the son of Bueth. Randle de Meschines earl of Chester, after his sub- jection of this county > bestowed it on Hubert Vaulx, or d£ Vallibus, a Norman adventurer of those days. By the mar- riage of Maud, daughter of another Hubert, one of his de- scendants, cotemporary with Henry III. it fell to- her spouse Thomas de Multon. Margaret, daughter to another Thomas de Multon, who died in 1313, married, and conveyed the ba- rony to Ranulph de Dacre, of Dacre-castle, in this county. On the death of the last male heir, George lord Dacre, this part of the estate fell to Lord William Howard, by marriage with Elizabeth, youngest sister of that Nobleman, who was killed in his childhood by a fall, as before related. Naworth or N award-castle^ the usual residence of the barons • « t * ■,. ■ H a $ h H 3 vi * 4 r g •f « * « ■ 5 H •« - n 4>" ^ ' w * 4 . \ € ,vum G~*y/UA jo** L^AKERCOST PllXOli Y JuJ JU***/ /#all JMalZ PEARLS.— LLANERCOST-PRIORY. 1 77 binson. This castle is the property of the Earl of Carlisle, . derived from his ancestor Lord William Howard. About a mile farther I crossed the Irt, or Irthing, cele- brated by the Editor of Camden for its pearls*. He tells Pearls in the i-i r IRTHINTG. us, that certain gentlemen obtained a patent for the fishery, which flattered them with the hopes of enriching them- selves by those of the British river. Not far from its banks stand the remains of Llanercost Llanmcost • Priory Priory. Here are to be seen ruins of two towers and some other buildings, and an inclosure with the remains of an ancient gate. The church had been a magnificent pile, with a tower in the centre. The west door is very hand- some. The windows above, and most of the other win- dows, are high and narrow. It is now a perpetual curacy, with a small stipend, increased by Queen Anne's bounty. This religious house was a Priory of Canons Regular of St. Augustine, founded by Robert de Vallibus, son of Hugh de Vallibus, in 11 69, for the soul of Henry 11. the great benefactor to his father and himself, and for the souls of his father Hubert, his mother Grecia, and all his ancestors and successors-^. At the dissolution the revenues were, according to Speed, 7Q\. IQs. ; to Dugdale, 77^ 7s. lid. : a a at • Gibson's Camden, 11. f Dugdale Monast ii. 1 30. 1 78 LLANERCOST PRIORY. at that time there were seven Canons and the Prior. — Henry VIII. granted the house and site, and several appur- tenances, to Sir Thomas Dacre-, and Edward VI. granted him the living of Llanercost, and several other churches, tithes and emoluments belonging to the Priory. This Sir Thomas was commonly called the Bastard Dacre, being an illegitimate son of Lord Dacre of the north. He repaired the mansion-house, and caused the following lines to be painted on the windows, which were afterwards removed into the east window of the church : » " Mille et quingentos ad quinquaginta novemque " Adjice, et hoc anno condidit istud opus " Thomas Daker eques, sedem qui primus in istam " Veneret exstincta religione loci. ** Hzec Eduardus ei dederat, devoverat ante " Henriciis, longee prsemia militioe." From the Dacres it came to the Howards, and is at pre- sent possessed by the Earl of Carlisle, by virtue of a lease from the Crown, to which it reverted on failure of issue- male descended from Sir Thomas Dacre*. The burial-place of the great family of the Dacres is most scandalously neglected; overgrown with brambles, and * Bum, 11. PICTS WALL. 1 70 and exceedingly ruinous. Among the mutilated tombs is one with the Dacre arms included within a garter, which points it out to have been that of Thomas lord Dacre, knight of the garter, a most distinguished personage, who died in 1525 ; and another, under a corresponding arch, is for Mabel wife of Humphrey lord Dacre, and daughter of Sir Thomas Par of Kendal, knight. In 1784 might be discovered the remains of five other tombs of the D acres, and their ancestors, in the ruins of this church. In the church-yard, on the belly of an ancient figure, is cut a modern inscription, denoting that John Gow, aged twenty-five, broke his neck by a fall he had in climbing round the top of the ruins of the church, on March 23, 1708. At a little distance from Llanercost I passed over the site of the Picts Wall, as it is styled. Near this place are p ICT s Wall. some remains, about four feet high, on the brow of a hill, but in an adjoining vale rise to eight or ten, with very perfect facing stones on each side : the middle part is composed of small stones and mortar flung in (probably hot) with- out any order. The facing-stones are from ten to eighteen inches long, and four inches thick. Most of the castles, a a 2 religious 180 ASKERTON-HALL. religious houses, and other ancient buildings near the site of the wall, seem to have been built with the materials. I crossed a very barren unfrequented country northward, Askerton- hilly, and covered with coarse grass ; passed by Askerton- HALL. hall, an old house with two towers built by one of the Lord D acres, who placed here a garrison, under the com- mand of the Governor of Gillesland, who had the title of Land Serjeant *. Beucastle. About three miles farther is Beucastle, or Bueth Castle, so called from one Bueth, Lord of the country at the time of the Conquest, who is said to have repaired a Roman castle, and called it after his own name : his son, Gils Bueth, was slain treacherously by Robert de Vallibus, at a meeting appointed for friendly purposes. Some assert that Robert founded Llanercost, to expiate the crime; if he did, he, in his charter, drops all mention of the deed, which he certainly would not have done had the foundation been of an expiatory nature; and even coolly names Gils Bueth as former pro- prietor of certain of the lands bestowed on the house. Bueth's lands afterwards fell to the Crown. Henry II. be- stowed it on the last Hubert de Vallibus-, and by his daughter * Camden, ii. 1033. -f Dugdale Monast. 11, 130. H tf' & ->- « 1 w ■"i Its IV Ja 1 H S fl J3 J* • » • * ■ • > I * « • w t I •• *, • I 1 . BEUCASTLE. 181 daughter it came to Thomas de Multon. It passed through several hands till the fifth of Charles I. who, on consider- ation of two hundred pounds, granted it to Sir Richard Graham ; and is now, with the vast territory round, the property of the Rev. Mr. Graham of Nether by. The castle is small, square, and surrounded with a foss ; was garrisoned in the year 1 (34 1 , when it was dismantled, and the garrison removed to Carlisle. * Beucastle had been a Roman station, and garrisoned by A Roman part of the Legio Secunda Augusta-, the other part of which lay at Netherby ; and both intended to cover the workmen employed in building the famous Wall. Many vestiges still are to be seen. An extensive ditch and ram- part surround the church and castle, and between the church and public-house are remains of several buildings. Some inscriptions have been met with on the spot, one addressed to Hadr'ian the founder of the Wall * ; and many coins have been dug up at this place. Mr. Horsely con- jectures, from an inscription which he supposes to have been brought from hence, that its ancient name was Jpia- torium -J-. In * Horfely, article Cumberland, page 270. \ Ibid, pages 233, 271. 1 82 BEUCASTLE. Fine Runic In the church-yard is the celebrated Obelisk, carved with Obelisk. . r r r\ • ' figures in good taste and great power or fancy. Un it is a Runic inscription, which was copied by order of Lord Wil- liam Howard, and sent by him to Sir Henry Spelman, who again communicated it to the learned Wormius. Wormius suspects it to have been incorrect, but ventures at this reading: Rino Lapides hos runicos posuit. — It is certainly of Danish origin, but the time and cause of its erection are quite unknown. Its height is fourteen feet two inches; its breadth on the bottom of the broadest side, one foot ten; of the narrowest side, one foot seven ; on the top, one foot four. From Beucastle I rode about twenty miles along a very bad and uncultivated country, with here and there a tract of oats or barley : passed through the village and parish of Stapleton, the first place granted forth as a fee of the barony of Gillesland * ; crossed the Line, and reached Ne- tlierby, where I again experienced the hospitality of its owner, the Reverend Mr. Graham -j~. Numbers of pieces of antiquity had been collected here since my former visit to this place. From * Burn, 11, 479- f He died February 2, 1782; was succeeded by bis son Charles, wbo died soon after ; he was succeeded by his brother James, created a Baronet December 28, 1782. BURGH-MARSH. 183 From thence I took a ride through Longtoum and Ar- thuret. The last was a barony, granted by Ralph de Mes- chines to Turzent Brundey, & Fleming, which was confirmed to him by Henry I. In the reign of King John it was in the hands of the Stotevilles *, a potent family, derived from a wild adventurer from Normandy, as may be collected from the curious additions to his name, of Gron de boef, and Front de boef. I forded the Line, and, after a short ride, reached Rocliff, and there crossed the Eden, which falls into the Sokvay Frith, a^ little lower down. Small vessels come up as far as this place at high water, which makes it the port to Carlisle. From thence I visited Burgh-marsh, in a parish of the Burgh-Marsh. same name, on which Edward I. yielded his last breath, on July 7, 1307, within sight of Scotland, a country he had devoted to the sword for bravely vindicating its own inde- pendency. All his steps for some time before his death were marked with cruelty. He condemned to the gibbet persons of the first consideration in the Scottish nation, who had taken arms in behalf of their country, making no dis- tinction between the treasons of natural subjects and the resistance of those who owed him no allegiance, and who preferred the government of one of their countrymen to that of a rival prince. So animated was he against the Scots, that * Burn, 11. Dugdale's Baron. I,; 455. 1 84 BURGH-MARSH. that he left Carlisle, in a dying condition, to put himself at the head of his army, and was so weak that he could pro- ceed only six miles in four days. He reached Burgh on the sands, and expired there in the arms of his domestics the morning after his arrival. Thus died the greatest, the best, and the wisest of the English monarchs. All his ac- tions were directed to the good of his own dominions ; yet the love of truth must extort the confession, that when the conquest of Scotland became the favourite object of that end, the dictates of equity and the feelings of humanity were totally eradicated. Henry duke of Norfolk, in 1685, at that time owner of this barony, erected a square column, with a cross on the top, in memory of this prince. On one side is this brief inscription : " Memoriae aeternae " Ed ward 1 1. Regis Angliae longe " clarissimi : qui in belli apparatu " contra Scotos occupatus, hie " in castris obiit 7 Julii "A. D. 1307." On the other side the noble founder of the column by no means forgets his own importance and dignities, nor the blood of all the Howards : 3 " Nobi- BURGH-MARSH. . 185 Carlisle, Sir Andrew tie Harcla, Earl of, 124, 127 Clifford, Henry Lord, 137 Cumberland, Geo. Clifford, Earl of, 139 , Margaret, Countess of, her tomb, 144 , Francis, Earl of, 156 Clippergate, 148 Crakcntborpe, 148 Chace, a famous, 153 Clifford, Roger de, 156 Clifton, 157 Carleton-hall, 158 Castle Carrock, 186 Cross-fell, 186 Cumrew, 186 Carlatton, 186 Croglin, the River, 1 86. D Dunham, 1 Derby," Thomas first earl of, 22 , Margaret countess of, 23 ■ , Thomas second earl of, 25 , Edward third earl of, 25, 26 , Henry fourth earl of, 28 , Ferdinand fifth earl of, 28 , William sixth earl of, 32 • , James seventh earl of, 33 , Charlotte countess of, 37, 57 , Charles eighth earl of, 39 , William ninth earl of, 40 ■ , James tenth earl of, 46 Douglas, River, 61 Dorset, Anne countess of, 133, 139, 157, 163 , her tomb, 145 house, 147 , her Alms- , her Co- lumn, 154 Dartmouth, George earl of, 16 1 Deadman's Stack, 166 Dacre, Defeat of Leonard Lord, 166 , Sir Thomas, 178 — , Thomas Lord, 17.9 Dunwalloght, 186 Derwentwater Estates, 1 87. E Eccleston, 61 Ebbing Well, 113 Eden, the River, 134, 164 Egglesfield, Robert de, 137 Eimont-bridge, 158 Eden-hall, 160 , the Luck of, 163 Church, 163 Edward I. 183. Frodesham, 1 Furness-fells, 1 1 3 Fothergill, Dr. George, 123. G Gropen-hall, 12 Gisburn Park, 106 Gordal INDEX. 1$3 Gordal Coves, page 108 ■ Scar, 1 1 Giants Pots, 135 Gelt-bridge, 171 Gillesland, 172 Grouse, black, 186 Gage, Thomas lord, 1 88. H Halton-castle, 2 Henry VII., 56 Houghton Tower, 64 Hodder, the River, 85 Henry VI., 87, 103 Hacken-hall, 91 Hothersal-hall, 100 Helifield, 107 Harcla-castle, 126 , Sir Andrew de, 127 Helbec-hall, 137 Harthorn Oak, 153 Hutchinson, Mr. William, 160 Hutton, Sir Richard, 162 Howard, Lord William, 172, 174 Heskew, 186 Hartside-fell, 186. i Ingleton, 114 Ingleborough-hill, 114 Irthing, the River, 177 there, 177. Knowsley, 21 Pearl Fishery K c c Knowsley, Portraits there, 22 — , Pictures there, 41 Kirkby- Lonsdale Bridge, 117 — — Church, 118 Kendal, 119 , Monuments there, 1 19 , Barony of, 121 Kirkby-Stephen, 123 Church, 123 ■, Tombs there, 124 Kirkby-Thore, 149 Kirk-Oswald, 167. Latchford-heath, 12 Limme, 14 Lydiate Chapel, 51 Latham, 54 , Siege of, 57 Almshouses, 60 , Sir Thomas de, 60 Leyland, 61 Lulworth Castle, 86 , Langho-green, 90 Lune, the River, 117 Lamerside-hall, 131 Lowther, the River, 157 Long Meg, 164 Llanercost Priory, 177 Long Town, 1 83. M Mere, 5 Mill-bank, 15 Mersey, the, 15 Molyneux, Family of, 48 , Tombs of, 49 Mac- 194 INDEX. Macallame, Ann, Portrait of, p. 69 Malkin Tower, 79 Mitton, S2 ■ Church, 82 Malham-dale, JOS , Plants there, 109 Malham-turn, 110 Musgrave, Sir Thomas, 124 , Sir Christopher, 161 , Sir Philip, 16T Machels, Family of, 148 Maybrough-castle, 157* N Norton, 4 Nassau, Charlotte Brabantinade, 38 Norfolk, Mary duchess of, 84 Naworth-castle, 173 Netherby, 182, 186 Norfolk, Henry duke of, 184. O Orford, 12 Ormskirk, 51 , Tombs of the Derby Family there, 52 Osbadiston, Monument of Sir Ed- ward, 66 Hall, 99 , Sir Charles, 99 Orton, 122 Ouzel, new Species of, 159 Obelisk, Runic, 182. Prescot, 21 Pendk-hill, 75) Pudsey, Family of, 104 Penygent, 1 1 2 Plants, 109, 114 Pendragon Castle, 131 Pikes, 148 Penrith, 158 Picts Wall, 179, 185. R Rock Savage, 1 Runcorn, 2 Roman Road, 82, 138 Ribble, the River, 82 Ribchester, 92 , ancient Altar there, 93 — , ancient Inscriptions there, 94 Roman Camp, 149 Rocliff, 183. Sankey-brook, 17 Canal, 17 , , Plate Glass Manufactory there, 18 Strange, George lord, 25 Sefton, 47 Church, 48 Shaw-hall, 62 , Pictures there, 63 Standen-hall, 81 Sherbornes, Tombs of, 82 , House of, 85 Salebury-hall, 91 Salley-abbey, 100 Sawley-bridge, 103 Swinden, INDEX. igs Swinden, page 107 Settle, 111 Shaw, Dr. 120 Shap, 121 Stencrakc-bridge, 134 Sandford-heath, 138 Stapleton, 182. Trafford, 1 Thanes, 6 Thelwall, 13 Tempest, Family of, 89 Thornton Church, 1 1 7 Thor, the Saxon God, 149 Temple Sowerby, 151 Three-brother Tree, 152 Talkin-tarn, 170 Tyne, the River, 187. W Warrington, 9 War burton, 14 — Painted Glass there, 1 1 Winstanley Hamlet, 46 Whalley Abbey, 68 ~ > Angular Grant* to, 72 ■ Church, 74 , Conflict at, 75 , Crosses there, 75 Witches, 7g Widdrington, Honourable Peregrine 84 ° ' Waddington, 86 -Hall, 87 — , Henry VI. concealed there, 87 Waddow-hall, 89 Wharton, Thomas lord, 125 ■ — Hall, 129 . , Family of, 129 — , Philip duke of, 130 Wildboar-fell, 134 Warcop-hall, 138 Whinfell-park, 152. Yarrow, the River, 61, PRINTED, AT THE ORIENTAL PRESS, BY WILSON & COv wild-court, Lincoln's inn melds, BOOKS published by EDWARD HARDING, No. 98, Pall-Mall. DRYDEN'S FABLES, With Plates, from Drawings by Lady Diana Beauclerc, £2. 125. 6d. LEONORA: Translated from the German by R. Spencer, Esq. With Plates, after the Designs of Lady D. Beauclerc, £\. 15. THE BRITISH CABINET ; Containing Fifty Portraits of Eminent Persons, Royal Quarto, £4. As. THE SCOTTISH GALLERY : Containing Fifty Portraits of Eminent Persons, £\. 4s. 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