ON MULEBAL THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA ' ^^0) ' James M. Taylor i> V THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES \ ] Bro. Taylor Traveling on Mule Through Central America. ON MULEBACK THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA BY JAMES M. TAYLOR, Missionary Evangelist. Editor of The Missionary Reporter and author of thirty-one Books and Booklets on various subjects. Cloth, 50c., Paper, 25c. JAMES M. TAYLOR. Publisher. 807 Deery Street, KNOXVILLE, TENN. ^ Of To Makgaret Netta Taylor, My Wife, And true companion, who carried the burden of the home, the care of our child, the management of the office and homebase of the work, standing nobly by the 'iielm" while we traveled through Central America on muleback, this book is lovingly dedicated. James Milbuen Taylor. 1523380 CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGE. T. — ^My Fourth Missionary Evangelistic Cam- paign 7 II. — The Great Idol of Central America 10 III. — Guatemala 17 IV.— Romanism in Guatemala 23 V. — Taking the Gospel to Lake Yzabal 26 VI. — Three Days in the Saddle 30 VII.— One Million Slaves 34 VIII.— A Visit to San Cristobal 37 IX. — A Heathen Eoman Feaet 42 X. — The Censer of a Heathen Roman Feast 46 XI. — Today or Never 50 XII. — Baja Vera Paz . . a 52 XIII.— An Indian Feast 56 XIV.— Through Baja Vera Paz 58 XV. — One Gospel 63 XVI. — Strangers in a Strange Land, Among a Strange People, with a Strange Tongue GG XVIL— My Last Night . . 70 XVIII.— The Friends Caamp 73 XIX. — A Noon Meeting 77 XX. — Ordered Away in Twenty-four Hours . . 80 XXL— Under Arrest 84 XXII.— In the Hands of Robbers 87 XXIII. — Honduras from the Interior 93 XXIV.— Eaten Alive 96 XXV.— Hotels by the Way 99 XXVI.— Our Beds 102 XXVII.— Our Mules 104 XXVIII.— What We Ate 110 XXIX. — ^Building Houses 113 XXX.— Dying Without Friend, Home or God 117 XXXI. — The American's Influence in Central America 119 XXXII.^Panama Today 133 XXXIII. — Panama Tomorrow 125 XXXIV.— Incidents 128 XXXV.— Simeon 136 XXXVI.— Seriaeo and Antonio 138 XXXVIL— "Don Juan." 141 XXXVIIL— Good-bye 145 CHAPTER I. MY FOURTIT MISSIONARY EVANGELISTIC CAMPAIGN. (For the convenience of those who have not pre- viously known of our interdenominational missionary work.) Since 189G the author and Mrs. Taylor have felc the hand of the Lord upon them for missionary evangelistic work, on mission fields, in connection with various mission stations of different churches. Three of these missionary evangelistic campaigns have carried us through the West India Islands and parts of South America, where thousands of people have sought the 'Lord. During these campaigns it has been the privilege of the author to come face to face with needs on the fields as only the missionary ever faces them. In connection with these trips, we have at va- rious times gone into unevangelized parts as yet untouched by missionaries of any organization. On returning to the homeland we have given mission- ary addresses, conducted missionary convention-, written for various papers, and scattered thousands of tracts and booklets, putting before the church of Jesus Christ, to the best of our ability, needs as we saw them. This has brought to us missionary money from various sources with instructions that it be used in meeting these needs. Without any organization of our own, and feel- 7 8 ON MULEABCK ing that the Lord of the harvest would not have us start a new organization or do an independent work, we decided in placing workers (whether American or native) whose support we undertook, to put them in connection with some organization already at work on the field. In doing this we have selected organizations that have sufficient backing in the homeland to guarantee the future of the work that may be accomplished. The reader would no doubt be surprised to know the calls we have received, and continue to receivj from every part of the world, begging for mission- ary evangelistic work. Many missionaries write us that this is their greatest need. Through correspondence with workers in Central America we became interested in the work of that land. On November 13, 1913, we sailed from New Orleans, La., for our Fourth Missionary Evangelit- tic Campaign through Central America, with a band of workers. Our party consisted of two breth- ren who were to remain on the field to do mission- ary work, Eev. Sidney W. Edwards as interpreter', and song evangelist James V. Reid, who filled the place of singer in our services, and secretary to the writer. Our first stop was in Guatemala, the most north- em republic of Central America. From there we passed on sowing by all waters, trying to go through this needy country and preach the gospel to every creature. THEOUOH CENTRAL AMEEICA. 9 This, our Fourth Missionary Evangelistic Cam- paign, carried us from Guatemala to the Republic of Panama and into the Canal Zone. It was dur- during this Campaign, while on the field, spending much time in Indian huts, traveling on muleback and afoot, that the Lord gave us the various chap- tei's of this book. 10 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER II. THE GEEAT IDOL OF CENTRAL AMERICA. In all Central America there is no one thing standing in the way of the gospel so much, and we doubt if all other things hinder the gospel as much as the Esquipulas idol. Two times each year tens of thousands come on long pilgrimages to worship "Our Divine Lord of Esquipulas," as it is termed. The priest in charge told the writer that they did not only come from all over Central America and Mexico, but from South America and the United States and Europe. The writer must confess that he went on a long pilgrimage also. He saw the idol and preached the gospel. In the winter season the pilgrimages are from January 1 to 15. The 15th being the great day, we arranged to arrive on that morning by arising at 2 o'clock and making a long ride before 10 a. m. The shrine or temple where the idol is kept is in the outer edge of the town of Esquipulas, near the Honduras border, between two very high moun- tains. The idol is an image of Jesus Christ ona yard and a half tall. This being the Spanish meas- urement of 33 inches to the yard, makes the idol 49 1-2 inches hi2;h. In color it is black. The THEOUGH CENTEAL AMEEICA. 11 priest told us that this was the color of Christ when the blood coagulated. It is generally spoken of as the ^Tilack Christ." It is said to be more than 300 years old, and is kept in the rear of the large tem- ple. There are images of two women kneeling at the foot of the cross weeping, and the three figures are in a large glass case. On either iide there is a door with steps leading up to c'lc ear-e, and room for passage through, it just back of the three figures. The lir?: puir of steps are climbed by the pilgrims on their knees with hands up, or folded. Those who are most holy, or have the most devout spirit go on their knees clear through the long stone-floored church ; others begin on the rough cobble stones on the street and reacn the idol with both elbows and knees bleeding and raw. We had to weep as we watched two little pale-faced girls in rags going on their sore knees, with eyes set in the direction of the image. After climbing the stairs the worshippers pass through the glass case behind the images on their knees, kissing the images and ithe foot of the cross on which the 'Talack Christ" is hanging. As they pass out they throw their offerings in a vessel from which it slides off and is taken by the priest. Some having no money bring an ear of corn or some oth- er offering. When the last kiss is given they spring to their feet and it is all over. Follow the crowd to the front of the temple and there they are found gamb- 12 ON MULEBACK ling in the street, drinking liquor and carousing. Just to the right of the temple is a small house which can be reached through a side door of the Shrine. There four men sell small images of "Eequipulas." (The priest calls it "our divine Lord of Esquipulas," but it is generally called "Es- quipulas/' or "The Black Christ,") We had a rare privilege, for the old priest seeing us, took us in charge and brought us around in front of the im- age, had the curtain raised, which always hangs down, and showed us everything. When he put up the curtain the priest whirled to the multitude and waving hie hand, growled out at them to kneel be- fore "Our Lord of Esquipulas," and every one but the priest, my friend and myself dropped to their knees. Of course the priest was too holy to kneel and we were, I suppose, not good enough. We entered the room where they were selling idols, but they were slow to give us any information when we asked about the large piles of images, numbering thousands. After some conversation they were convinced that we were not foes, so the} told us they had all been blessed, and were very fine in cases of sickness, or to keep evil spirits away. Some of them were especially good for children when teething, if they were worn around the neck. We purchased some with the solemn promise on their part that the priest had already blessed them in a way that they could be worn for anything, and get good results. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 13 Thonsands of these poor, bare-footed, ragged, hungry wretches walk hundreds of miles, sleep on the bare ground by the roadside night after night to get there, and then invest what money they have in one of these idols for each member of the family, being made to believe they carry with them certain virtues. On our way to Esquipulas we asked many pil- grims who were on their way back, if Esquipu- las was doing many miracles this year, and they would tell us, "Yes, yes, many." They said people, long blind, were receiving their sight. Pasted in the shrine we saw several statements by those who said they had been healed by this idol. These of course, were con- coctions of the priest for the delusion of the igno- rant multitudes. The reader should understand that it is not our Jesus they pray to, but this image; for those who come to worship pray only to the "Lord of Esqui- pulas." The crowds are so great that on all roads for at least a hundred or more miles in every di- rection there are brush covered sheds erected, and cooking places arranged, so the pilgrims can be fed and cared for. We saw these in Guatemala, Hon- duras and Salvador. As one nears the shrine on the mountain tops will be seen large piles of stones, some of the heaps as large as a small hut. These stones are carried 14 ON MULEBAOK there by the pilgrims, to do penance; we were told that many were carried even from Mexico. As we neared the city we met a crowd, and with it an old woman possibly eighty years of age. We inquired how far they had to go, and learned they lived between 200 and 300 hundred miles distant, but on they went through the mud and rain, with the poor old woman following. When she reached home she would have walked 600 miles to pray to a piece of wood 49 1-3 inches high, but her heart would still be heavy and her soul unrelieved. The priest complained to us that the receipts were not so great now as they were many years ago. On the roads we passed thousands of pilgrims; many of them were old people and mothere with a pack on their head and a child tied on the back. We rented a building, set up our stereopticon at night and preached the gospel, while two priests stood at the door calling to the people, "do not go in there; those are Protestants." But the spell h wearing off and they cannot control the people is they once did, so many came in and seemed eager for gospel light. The first thing to greet us on our arrival in the town was a large crowd of Indians with packs on their backs, kneeling at the edge of the public square in the mouth of the street which led across the valley to the door of the shrine. They were kneeling in the street with faces toward the shrine, chanting a prayer to the "Lord of Esquipulas." The THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 15 sun was hot; they were ragged, bare-footed and dirty, starting on a tramp of possibly a few hun- dred miles and must now say good-bye to Esqui- pulas. We moved around in front to take their picture, and watched them leave with tears drip- ping off their faces. Nothing is left undone to keep these poor people in ignorance and superstition. Everything is be- ing done to make things, even life itself, have a ghostly, mysterious aspect. As we neared Esquipulas, the natives with us stopped and said, "Out there where those people arc, is the last place of worship when leaving the city." We stepped aside about seventy-five feet from the road and found the people around a large stone. Others as they passed would stop, "make the sign of the cross," and leave a stick, stone or flower. We saw where loads of candles had been burned, and began to inquire about it. We were told first by a native preacher whom we knew well, and second by two Indians who traveled with us; then by many of the pilgrims themselves, the same story. The priests say those two large stones were a man and woman at one time. The woman was the man's god-mother. The priest came along there, so they said, and found them committing adultery. He cursed them and they both turned to stone immediately, and every year on the day when this miracle was performed the priest comes out and says "mass" over them. Of course, our 16 ON MULEBAOK native preacher and two Indians were laughing about such delusion, but the other people were giv- ing it as facts they believed. We do not say the priest really teaches this; though we do not for a moment doubt it; but the people in general believe it, and we ourselves saw the worship carried on. Where is the God of Abraham and Isaac ? Where is Elijah's God who answers by fire? Do we want this superstition to continue? If we do not why not do something? This is the greatest place on the Western Hemisphere for a great camp meeting. Think of the thousands of tracts and testaments that could be sent to every part of Central America. Here is the place for a hard working missionary. The greatest good that could come to Central Amer- ica would be to destroy faith in Esqvipulas; and that place is the point to work from, for the people who have that faith come there. THKOUCIH CENTT^AL AMERICA. 17 CHAPTER III. GUATEMALA. One of the most important of the seven Central American countries is the Republic of Guatemala, lying just south of British Honduras and Mexico. It is a republic of twenty-one states, and the con- stitution provides for a government much like our own, but at its best it is little more than a monar- chial government. They say bullets are the tickets by which a man is elected. I have been told that on election day these Indians and the more igno- rant Spanish natives are marched to the polls and asked what their names are, and the men in charge of the polls do the rest. They simply register the man for the candidate they want elected. The land here is very fertile and the climate ideal. Much of Guatemala is mountainous, with many leading towms and cities four to five thousand feet high. On account of this we have real cool weather, though we are in the tropics. I have found an overcoat very acceptable, and heavy cover is a luxury at night. The ideal climate and fertile soil make it an exceptionally good coffee country. Porto Rico cof- fee is high priced, though it grows well there be- cause it must be shaded while growing; so coffee is only found in Porto Rico growing among large 18 ON MULEBACK trees. Not so in Guatemala. The coffee groves are like well-kept orchards, with nothing but coffee — unless it be bananas planted between the trees. Not only do they save the trouble and expense of shading the coffee trees, but the fertile soil not hav- ing to produce shade for the trees, grows a far heavier crop of the coffee beau. It is common to see coffee trees loaded so that it is necessary to prop the limbs. Good crops of corn, cane, etc., are also raised here. The great trouble is lack of development and capital. I am writing from Coban, the capital of the state of Alta Vera Paz, and the geographical center of the Eepublic. But to get here I had to travel more than one hundred miles on little boats, then thirty miles on a little railroad; (that is the full length of the railroad line). We then came over the mountains for sixty miles on horseback, and the only mode of transferring our baggage WdS on the backs of eleven Indians. There are times during the year when a two-wheeled ox-cart can go over this mountain trail, but in this way and on the backs of mules all the freight is carried. The cof- fee goes to Europe by Indian-back and S. S. Com- pany. Land down here, now selling for a few cents per acre, with mahogany forests and fertile soil, would be worth many dollars per acre in one week's time if the American flag was put up. Guatemala has a population of 1,500,000 or 2,000,000 people; more than 00 per cent of this THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. 19 number are of illegitimate birth, and very few can read or write. The state language is Spanish, but about G6 per cent of the population are Indians, most of them speaking one of their own many lan- guages. Guatemala City, the capital, is a city of 76,000 inhabitants, with two missions of the Presbyterian church and one church. There are many towns and cities of from four to nine thousand people, many of them Indian towns, with no church or mis- sionar}-; even the Roman church in a number of these places is tumbling down, having no resident priest. Thousands of these Indians in the interior work on plantations where they are kept in debt to the planters, so they do not dare leave, and their wages run from 2 cents to G cents per day in many places. This Republic of nearly two million souls has a few churches and mit=sions doing a little something for the souls of the people, but the combined work of all only amounts to forty congregations. The corruption of the Priesthood is too vile to mention. Rev. ]\Ir. Haymaker, the Presbyterian Missionary, told the writer of one of their Bible women who is the daughter of a Roman priest ; and before she heard of Christ, she herself became the mother of a child whose father is a priest. Think of it ; this woman's child is the daughter and grand- daughter of Roman Catholic priests, who are sup- 20 ON MULEBAOK posed to be so pure and holy that they must not even marry. A brother missionary told us of his family phy- sician, whose brother is a Roman prieet. This priest's own brother told our missionary friend that his brother, the priest, was the father of twen- ty-three children; yet these priests are the spiritual advisers of the people, and supposed to never do wrong or make a mistake. If the Central American Eomanism was good, Guatemala does not have it, for even Eome has not reached the people; they have no work whatever in many places. There are perhaps eight or ten thousand English speaking people on the Atlantic coast alone. They are working for the United Fruit Company and the railroad, both of which are American corporations. For a missionary the door is wide open and the field is white unto the harvest. They have "Stat- utory Eeligious Liberty," and the greatest liberty is given the preaching of the gospel. The Eoman priests are not allowed to go out of the church ex- cept with civilian's clothes on. They have very fine gold mines in this country. One is owned by a lady from Tennessee and is said to be the best producer in the country. The people, like all Lat- in countries, are the most courteous and obliging. The capital in all places I have yet visited is largely German, except the railroad and banana plantations owned by the United Fruit Company. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 21 In this Republic are about one million Indians who are ignorant, superstitious and helpless. They are little more in practical life than slaves. They are compelled by the authorities to work, and on these large fanns they only get 3 to 6 cents per day. The four who are to leave here tomorrow with my baggage for a sixty-mile journey, were loaned to me as a favor by a man who owns a large farm and has many Indians. Each Indian carries one hundred pounds of baggage, a large part of the way being over rocky, muddy mountain trails. On the farm when they work regularly they receive 3 3-4c per day. and one of them is the head of a family. With good American schools .all through Guate- mala and the people forced to send their children and with sufficient capital invested to thoroughly develop the natural wealth of this country, it would soon become a paradise. 22 ON MULEiBAOK CHAPTEE IV. ROMANISM IN GUATEMALA. For centuries the great problem for missions iu Eoman Catholic countries has been, "What ad- vance will they allow us to make?" This, however, is no longer the question in Gua- temala, Central America. That has been answered by the government. The only question now is, ^'What will the Church of Jesus Christ do, and how will we Americans answer the Macedonian cry coming to us from a neighboring country without the gospel, but open to it?" In this Eepublic there are two parties, the "Con- servatives" and the "Liberals." The former is pre- eminently a Eoman party ; but the endeavor of the latter is to drive out tyranny and ignorance and give place to education and elevation. *lt is estimated that in the whole of Guatemala there were probably more than one hundred priests and many of them practically idle. The days of their political power is passed. Under the rule of President Barrioe, in 1872, the first decisive step was taken, permanently establishing religious lib- erty. General Barrios ruled the country with an iron hand for more than a dozen years, and was practically dictator during that time. He expelleJ the Jesuits from Guatemala by a law which is THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 23 strictly enforced. A minister, before being per- mitted to enter Guatemala, must swear that he is not a Jesuit. President Barrios confiscated the monasteries and convents, banishing their inhab- itants from the land, and left only the churcli buildings, under certain rental privileges, to the Catholic Church. He also made it a misdemeanor for the priests to appear on the streets in their cler- ical robes. It was under Barrios that Protestant mission work was started in Guatemala. Although his re- quest may have been a political move to play the Protestants against the Catholics, it is still a fact that he persuaded the Presbyterian Board to open a mission, paid the traveling expenses of the mis- sionary, provided him and his family with accom- modations, and sent his own children to school, ad- vising other officials to do the same. This gives to Protestant, and particularly to Presbyterian mis- sions, a distinct advantage in pursuing religious work in Guatemala. The representative of mis- sion work today has free access and favor of all the officials, from the President down. All over the country Catholic -churches are fall- ing into decay from neglect, others injured by earth- quakes, some more and some less, but no effort is being made to repair them. They are seldom vis- ited by a priest, and are very scantily attended. Churches that twenty-five years ago were well at- 24 ON MULEBACK tended and well stocked with nicely clothed wooden saints, are now almost abandoned. In pnblic compaign addresses the priests and the Roman Church are bemeaned and exposed. The governors and mayors allow Protestants to use the school houses, theatres and court houses for ser- vices. Not that they are religious, nor are they Protestants, but they are tired of Eoman ignorance, tyranny and superstition. The reader must not decide that the other party or the Eoman Church, are dead, for they are not, and it will no doubt only be a question of time un- til the Conservative party will be in power, or the Eoman Church will bring icomplaint before the present party about the liberties allowed the Pro- testants, and things will be very different. The hope of the gospel, not Protestantism, but the gospel — is for the church of Jesus Christ to pour men and money in here NOW; to put in schools, hospitals, publishing plants, orphanages, etc., and let the general public see that the hope of the country is the gospel. It can be done a great deal cheaper and with less effort now than ever again in the future. Guatemala furnishes the Church an opportunity to help build. a Christian Eepublic. Shall we ac- cept the challenge and march forward to victory? The state of Baja Vera Paz, with twenty villages, towns and cities, eadh of which should demand one or more pastors, has not a missionary or native THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. 35 worker, while 50,000 people bow down to images, not knowing God, and with no opportunity to hear or learn about Him, 'We visited one place where the Roman church had been burned and no steps were taken to rebuild. Responsible citizens declared that without doubt, the last two priests, and possibly the last three, had died with delirium tremens. There were a few thousand people without a shepherd. We saw them dance, drink rum and burn incense "before God," and cry in their drunken hilarity as they drank, "Here's to God." They called it religion and Christianity. This is the natural, untrammeled stamp of Rome; of the type for which America is preparing the way. We have passed more than once the hut of an old priest who had carried drunken- ness and uncleanness to such excess he was turned out of the Church. The priests charge large prices for a mass and accept the money these ignorant Indians raise in their drunken feasts, held for this purpose. The field is ours, protection will be given; we can have even more liberty than the church that has been here for 400 years, and failed. We can give them an illustration of what light, liberty, education, elevation and the gospel will bring if we will only pray, give and go. What we do must be done quickly. WHAT WILL WE DO? 26 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER V. TAKING THE GOSPEL TO LAKE YZAEAL. The lake is about forty miles inland from the coast, and empties into the Gulf of Honduras through the Eio Duke. It is about fifteen by fifty miles, and in the early history of Guatemala the town of Yzabal on the lake from which it takes its name, was the only port of enh'y on the Atlantic side of the Eepublic. This location was chosen that they might keep in hiding from the pirates w^ho at that time roamed the seas. Mrs. Potts, an American lady, who, for nearly fifty years, has made her home on this lake, gave us much inter- esting history about the early days of the lake. To get to Coban and other points in the interior we must pass through the lake to the Pio Polochic. The river boat, 'Vesper," was to leave Livingston Monday morning, so we chartered a little launch, "The Jobo," and left on Saturday. The scenery up the Dulce river to Lake Yzabal was most pictur- esque. As we passed through the first mountains the cliffs towered above us on each bank like mass- ive masonry, a few hundred feet high, with names of visitors written along here and there. After a delightful voyage of several hours we reached Bacadia, an Indian town, where we stopped for a service. From all we could learn through the THROUGH CEXTEAL AMERICA. 27 natives and Mrs. Potts we were the first to preach Jesus at this point. We sang to them in Spanish, preached for a while and then offered our Spanish Testaments and Gospels for sale, several of which they bought. They seemed delighted with the ser- vice, and several held up their hands that they' wanted us to pray our Jesus to save them. They seemed glad for the privilege of coming out to our boat for us, and taking us back again in their little canoes. The little village is made up of trash cov- ered huts with mud floors. Our next point was San Felipe. Here are the ruins of the old fort that guarded Lake Yzabal, for San Felipe is right at the mouth of the Lake whero it empties into the Rio Dulce. Dark had overtaken us, but Bro. Butler climbed out on the old landing and met the "comandante," the officer in charge of the place. After telling him who we were and what our business was, he gave us a cordial recep- tion, and offered to have the soldiers clean out the mud floored, trash covered school house, so we could preach and use our stereopticon with views of Christ. The entire town turned out to hear and see. Many kneeled with us for prayers, and we sold several portions of God's word. Some of our party slept ashore on the floor of a native home, while the others piled in the little boat, Jobo. The next morning before daylight we pulled out for "Jocolo." Here we were invited to Mrs. Potts' comfortable 28 ON MULEBACK American home for breakfast. While this good lady, more than seventy years of age, has spent nearly fifty years in this country, she has not for- gotten how to make a bunch of American boys feel at home. After eating she assisted us in calling all her Indians together on her front porch for a service. Mrs. Potts told us that she knew the gos- pel had never been preached on the Lake before. Leaving Jocolo at 9 :30 a. m. we crossed to Yza- bal, a two and a half hours trip. We were soon ashore and held a short service and announced the night meeting, when we would use the stereopticon. We then started for Los Limones where we held a very profitable service on the beach. Here they really clamored for Testaments. The service at Yzabal that night was fine; God was there. The first time the gospel was preached at that place will never be forgotten. Monday morning we were up at 3 o'clock and sailed for Los Eetor. Arriving at 7 we found the usual reception by the "comandante," who had the street swept and dhairs set out. God was pleased to smile upon our efforts again, and we then set out for the middle of the Lake where we were to meet the boat on which we would be carried up the Polochic river. Brothers Jackson and Dunkum told us good-bye here and went back to Livingston and Port Barrios. The separation was in no way pleasant, for our hearts had become closely knit THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 29 together. They go back to begin real missionary life, and we press on in our evangelistic work. We waved and wept as long as we could see each other. In thirty minutes we had entered the Polo- chic river, which feeds the lake, and the Gospel had been given for the first time to Lake Yzabal. 50 ON iMULKBACK CHAPTER VI. THREE DAYS IN THE SADDLE. We were met at Ponchajche by Brother Tito with six horses and nine Indians. The latter were to carry our baggage by taking 100 pounds each, and we were to mount the horses and mules. Sixty miles lay out before us and every mile through the mountains. We were to start at an elevation of about 60 or 75 feet, and finish our journey at Coban, Gaut., 4,000 feet above eea level. At two points were to cross mountain passes more than 5,000 feet high. Our freight and baggage was finally repacked and put up in one-hundred pound cargoes, and the nine Indians were started. Later we mounted our animals with one pack mule loaded with suoh things as we must have right along, but could not tie to our own saddles. This extra luggage consisted of our typewriter, stereopticon, one case of slides, ham- mock and blankets. Before starting we went to an Indian hut where we got something warm to eat. Mr. Peid and the writer lay down for a few min- utes rest. We were finally called, mounted our hor- ses and started on the journey. It was only a little while until it began a pouring rain, but we just unstrapped our rain-coats and um- brellas and kept on at a good trot. The horse on which the writer rode lost his footing in a big mud TTTPtOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 31 hole and went clown. The other members of the party helped us grunt and looked on until we were out, and then enjoyed the laugh at our expense. The sun slipped away without saying ''^good night," and dark stole upon us without being invited. With our pack inule in front we turned our animals loose, Indian fashion, the first following the pack mule, and each following the other; up and down hills, through gushing streams and deep mud holes we plunged on.- An hour or two of dark had elapsed before we found a mountain village well lighted by candles and lanterns. One of the first things we passed was a hut wide open with a large "Image," before which burned several candles. In front of another house we sat in our saddles, while the rain poured, begging for a place to spend the night. Finally two houses were opened where we could have cots, and the "]\Iayor" agreed to feed us. He lived in a mud-floored, trash covered cabin, but we were thankful for such favors. We sat at the table eat- ing while they cut up a hog in 18 inches of us. Leaving Tucuru at 9 :30 a. m. we had real moun- tain trails to Tamahu, where we stopped for dinner. At 'this place we went into an old dilapidated Roman Church. The crosses and idols were piled in on both sides. We read on one large cross the date when the Pope had sent it out from Rome, and that any- one who kissed it with reverence would be granted one hundred days indulgence. Do not forget that 32 ON MULEiBACK it was well cased up with glass, and a goodly sum of money was nece?i5ary ito have the privilege of kiss- ing it. After dinner we only rode a little while until we passed a shed covered with trash, standing by the roadside, under which stood three half rotten cros- ses. Before them were burned eandles and withered flowers. These crosses we found along the entire route. Then came a pack train of loaded mules, twenty-eeven strong. Hard riding, which- neariy laid some of us up, brought us to Tactie by dark. The rooms had four cots each, but the dirt floors were covered with pine needles. They were having a religious "fiesta" at this town, 60 we went up to see. In front of the church the music was furnished by four boys beating on a *^Marimba." It is a crude looking instrument made of wood on which they beat with a stick, making really beautiful music. While the women were on the inside praying, the men were in front firing ofl torpedoes and the boys were screaming and fighting. We passed on to see the Indian carriers lying on the paved streets sleeping on the stones. Arising before daylight we climbed into our saddles again for the third day, to com- plete our journey. Several miles out from Coban, Brother Anderson, one of the Co- ban missionaries, met us on the little trail. It was a happy meeting. Those whose labors have not called them to places where they never see a Chris- 3 n CO «<^ cT •-t o 3 o o THEOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 33 tian face or especially an American face, can nev^er know the blessing of a miesionary visit. Nothing of special interest took place the last clay, except when we would have a race to catch some brother's animal that would get away while a girt was being mended, or oranges were being gathered by the wayside. Many were the old songs we sang and the testimonies given along the way. On arriving we were sore and tired, but strong in faith, and rejoicing that He had brought us safe thus far. ,"^4 ON MTHLEiBACK CHAPTER VII. ONE MILLION SLAVES. The population of Guatemala, C. A., k estimated at one and one-half to two million people; from 66% to TO"/" of this number are Indians. We are safe, therefore, in the statement that the Indian population of the Republic of Guatemala exceeds one million. Their condition in every respect is far worse than it was four hundred years ago. In the first place, they are without the gospel of Jesus Christ. In the second place, they are in reality nothing but slaves. In each municipality there is an officer who looks after the Indian la- borers. If any one desiring help fails to secure it, all he has to do is apply to this oflficer, state the number of "mosos" he wants and pay him the money; the officer sends to the huts of the In- dians out in the hills for them. If they are busy hoeing in their garden or have a sick wife or child and should give this as an excuse they will likely be beaten, for by law they can be compelled to go. Of course, they are paid, but what of that? They are not consulted as to what it will be or whether they want to go or not. The officer decides all of this and they have to go. The freight to the interior towns is carried by them. We wired to a certain point when we would THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 35 an-ive in about sixty miles of the place; a man went out 'to hunt ten Indians to send for our trunks, beds, etc., but could not get a man. He went to the officer in charge of that work, but was told there were none. He then went to 'the "jefe"-tlie gover- nor who simply sent a message to the officer to bring the Indians at once-, and they were brought. The price was asked, and it was about 60c American money. The trip for our baggage and back would require fully one week, and each man must carry at least one hundred pounds through the mountains, follow trails over rocks and through mud, board themselves, and sleep wherever night overtook them. Seven days doing the work of a mule for 60c, and board themselves and families. Of course, we added enough to this to make each man feel good, but they had to do it. The wealthiest man in the place from which we write, pays his Indians three and one-half cents per day and they board them- selves and families. This, however, is not the worst. W'hen a contract is made with an Indian man to move onto a farm with his family, to work for i certain amount per day or month, the owner of the place will loan him money or sell him something and thus get him in debt. His wages will never enable him to pay the debt. Then there is a law that as long as the debt is unpaid 'he can be held with his family, and even his children after him; and should they run away they can be hunted up with officers and brought back. 36 ON MULEBAOK Poor Indian ! he is down-trodden, hated by the world, and neglected by the church. We have passed scores of them in the road who would not raise their head or turn their eyes toward us. Here they are one million strong, and no one to tell them that Jesus cares. Americans and Europeans come down here to work them, and to beat and curse them when they don't work. But no American or European has come to tell them about Jesus. Will you pray the Lord of the harvest to send forth reapers to this Indian harvest? THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 37 CHAPTER VIII. A VISIT TO SAN CRISTOBAL. l^e place is named for Christopher Columbus, who has lately been made a "Saint" and is now worshipped there. We had sent a native worker over to open the way, and on Saturday before Christmas we mounted about 10 a. m. for a ride of four leagues over mountain trails for a visit to this town. The writer had some advantage over the other five members of the party, for while the others laughed at my horse-whieh happened to be a mule- because he did not look quite so fancy as other members of the caravan, he made up for it all when we started up and down steep mountain sides and cliffs; for he could climb or descend them like a squirrel. "Bill and I" became famous for our climb- ing and sure-footedness. Along the entire journey we passed Indians walk- ing a'long the road with their load of corn, coffee, lumber, wood, or some other cargo on their backs, and fastened to the head, all as "Tjeasts of burden." No one in the homeland can imagine how our hearts bled for them — no God, no home, no missionary. We had only gone the distance of about a mile when we began passing "god houses,"-little trash covered sheds six or eight feet square, with three 38 ON MULEBACK or more old wooden crosses inside ; several of them had a few flowers left by some poor hungry-hearted Indian. We passed such sheds all along the way, and when near San Cristobal we found a more substantial cabin by the roadside which was walled up and had a stout door. We dismounted and en- tered the place, where we found some old rotten "saints;" several crosses had half rotted and fallen down. Sitting around on the ground were the "saints,"-images of various cliaracters they worship. But the reader must remember that whoever the character may be, it is a particular image they worship; for with one image of the same name in their own town we have known them to walk more than a week to get before another image of the same saint which "had more power." On our arrival at the town we found the "Com- mandante,"-the head officer of the place, who had arranged everything for us, and as the school house was small he decided to have the services held in the large porch of the Court House. Do not decide that he was a Christian; no, not at all, but like many officers and others we meet in these countries, they are anxious to show every courtesy and kind- ness to the preaching of the gospel. The officer had his soldiers carry in seats at night and return them the next morning; he also kept soldiers on guard each night to see that the curtain for our stereopticon and other things were not mo- lested. On Sunday night he had the government THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 39 brass band of sixteen instruments to play for the service. This is a small city of a few thousand people, but no spiritual help of any kind. The Roman Churcn had burned six months before our visit and the last priest, we are told, had died with delirium tremens. In fact, we heard that the last three had died the same way. Of course, there are "saint houses" all over town, but it is not possible for the writer to give the American reader the faintest idea of what they are. In one of these "saint houses" we saw several of those wooden images that had been in the church when it burned. Now those old charred chunks of wood with no semblance of hands or face left, are prayed to with the earnestness we would pray to Christ. But why not, for they have onc^i been "blessed" by the priest, and now have great power. The crowds were large at all the services we held, and the interest such that, though we had intended closing Sunday night, we felt constrained to con- tinue until Monday night. 'Sunday and Monday we visited the people over the town in their homes and saloons. During the service one night, a prominent lady who was under deep conviction, asked one of our party, "Do you really believe that in this religion one could find peace and comfort ?" When assured it was true she told how she was about to lose her mind because of her troubled, burdened heart. 40 ON MULEBAOK Some converts from the meeting in Coban came over and were used of the Lord. One of them, a Spanish lady from one of the very best native fam- ilies, testified and told the people they knew her and had known her father, who had been the leading general. Then she explained how she got hold of a Bible, and as she read the Spirit convicted her of sin, and that Jesus had forgiven her sins and she knew it. Then she urged them to give up their idol worship and let Christ come into their hearts. Another was the daughter of a wealthy German merchant of Coban. When she gave her clear-cut testimony a friend in San Cristobal who knew not Christ, listened attentively, and as they walked to the hotel together this friend told her good-bye and said, "I know after what you said in your talk you do not need friends like me so this will have to be good-bye." The next morning the lady came to tell our young convert good-bye again before she left the city, and asked her not to drop her but to pray for her. She expressed the wish that our meeting had not closed for she believed the Lord miglit have saved her and given her the peace the others had found. We stayed three days and the trip there and back with our board amounted to $13.00. But oh, how we did need to remain for ten days, which could have been done for less than $50.00. It hurts us to know our hands are tied and we cannot do what we would like. We had to leave them in the hands THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 41 of heathen people and heathen customs. It would require very little t^acrifice on the part of some of our friends to put a ten days' meeting in many of these places. Just think, my dear reader, we have here scores of towns with a population varying from five to twenty-five thousand and not a missionary, or even a Catholic priest. We ])elieve God would wonderfully hless the person who would make post^i- hle the way of salvation to these cursed and benight- ed people. On our return, after a few hours in the saddle, w^e reached a spring on the mountainside where we stopped for dinner. x\s we sat on the ground to eat we watched the poor Indians pass the trail with loads of freight on their backs and thanked God for a message of deliverance for this people. As we began singing and testifying there on the mountain how the Lord did come upon us until we shouted and wept together. The only sign of humanity was a few little trash covered huts and these poor In- dian beasts of burden passing at intervals along the road. We were soon back in the saddle and on our way to Cohan where we w^ere to hold a Christmas eve service. 43 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER IX. A HEATHEN ROMAN" FEAST. 'Roman Catholics cannot, and it is next to im- possible for American Protestants to grasp the full meaning of the now common expression, ''Baptized Paganism." To understand what it really means, and to find that the term is none too strong, it is necessary to travel through Latin America. The principal or important part of Romanism in South and Central America are the feasts. They are, in a sense, similar to what is meant in Protestantism by a "revival meeting," or "camp meeting." These are the times when crowds are attracted and all members are required to be present, provided they are "good Catholics." Those who are better ac- quainted with this organization declare there are scores of feasts in a year. During the week before Christmas and up to January 6, most of the time is spent in these feasts. The writer spent December 22 and 23 of 1912 in San Cristobal, Guatemala, C. A. At the time of our visit the Indians were observing their nine-day feast. We saw "baptized paganism" demonstrated. Palm covered houses had been built for the occa- sion; some were used for selling rum; some for dancing, others for sacrificing to the "saints," while still others were kept for cooking, eating and sleep- THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 43 ing. During these nine days all work is suspended by the participants, and some move in from miles away. Everything is done in the name of religion, or religious worehip. Of course, these Indians do not worship their gods of pottery and clay any longer, for they have been "Christianized." That is, they have had the old clay gods taken from them and images of Jesus, Mary and other saints have been given instead. True, they do not know who the saint was, when or where he lived, or what he did, but what of that ? They only know of the little piece of wood and they worship these "saints" just as they once worshipped their old gods. At the feast we visited, "twelve apostles" were in charge. They had one room where they skpt and another where they spent the time while not waving the censer in burning incense, or dancing. We have been in some vile places, but this room was literally blue with smoke, and these apostles were all drinking, some of them so drunk they could not sit up. We watched them as in their turn they would take the censer and go waving it before the various "saints" — the images. They would stagger from one to the other with the censer in one hand, while with the other they would accept another glass of liquor and drink it, saying, "Here is to the health of God." This we saw repeatedly. Just across the yard under a shed the musicians, with their doleful music, both night and day fur- 44 ON MULEBACK nished "time" for the dancers. It was a soft mud floor. By the side of the musicians were the im- ages, the principal one being of God, and it was before him they were dancing. The liquor glass was continually being passed among them, and we often eaw them so drunk they could not hold the glass; one woman dancer would hold the head of another, while a third would try to pour the rum down her throat as she muttered in her delirium, "Here's to the health of God." Every little while a piece of money was thrown at the foot of the image of God by tho^e dancing. We saw them dance and drink until they were so drunk they fell in the mud and had to be dragged out. But the reader must remember this is Latin American Ee- ligion, and Rome claims it as her own. We saw one person fight as many as three people while thus dancing before "God." We visited 'this feast on three occasions and asked all questions possible, and found that the money se- cured through the offerings made by the dancers was to be used in paying the priest for a mass which was to cost $200, including the music. How much these poor barefooted, half-clad Indians, who are little better than slaves, need this kind of "religion" we leave the reader to judge. While looking at their images they would explain to us who they were, but no two of them would tell the same thing. We have talked to many and find they do not look beyond the image to a higher power, but pray THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 45 to the piece of wood itself and believe it will help them. On our way back to the hotel we stopped in a little store and found a picture of Jesus on the cross hanging in the store. We asked the woman about it and she told us it had been blessed by the priest and therefore had great power, and she had hung it there to protect the store in her absence. If American Roman Catholics could see what we have they would give money to send Christian mis- sionaries to these countries, to give the people the gospel. Could our reader see these poor wretched people as we have seen them, kissing the images, or the tables on which they were set, and then get down and kiss the dirt floor before them we be- lieve the gospel would be given to the South and Central American people. Are they Christians? Do they need help ? The answer must be ours. 46 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER X. THE CENSER OF A HEATHEN ROMAN FEAST. The censer is made of a small pottery bowl with two handles like the bail of a bucket crossing each other some six inches above the bowl at right an- gles. Fastened to these handles is a piece of wire six or eight inches long. The priest, or chief who officiates, holds to the wire while the little vessel containing burning coals, with a foul smelling incense, is swung in front of the various images. The images always include one of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and sometimes God, the Father and God the Holy Ghost, with dozens of other "saints" heard and unheard of. In front of all these this censer is swung, being carried from one thatched roof shed or hut to another where the various im- ages are located. Of course, dozens of candles are being burned before the saints, more of them being found in front of the "saint" most highly respected by the particular community giving the feast. These feasts last nine days, and it was on the eighth day we visited one. By that time those par- ticipating in the ceremonies were beastly drunk, for they begin drinking rum the first day of the feast. Rum, cigarettes, and cigars seemed to make up the necessities and luxuries of these gatherings. The censer was always earned by a man too THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 47 drunk to walk steadily. In fact, we liave seen him stumble and go down with it. But as lie staggered from one image to another he would swing the cen- ser and kiss the table supporting the image, many times kissing the dirt or stone floor. As he passed about in the midst of the crowd, various "worship- ers" would stop him to pour more rum down his throat. The rum is free to everyone participating in the ceremonies and they fake advantage of this free, but coveted article. , As they swallow the rum from time to time they can be heard to say in their drunken, maudlin groans, "Here is to the health of God." Our read- er must remember this is "Christian ( ?) worship," and these are "Christian ( ?) people,'' because thej are part of the 350 million who belong to the only church of God on earth, the Roman Catholic Church. Yes^ they are everyone counted by the priest as members of the organization. In fact, the feast is held for the purpose of carrying forward the teachings, and financing the church. In order that one whole family may have the full benefits of the feast and not have their happiness impaired they arrange between themselves that the husband is to get drunk one day and night and the wife keeps sober, so she can take care of the hus- band and get him home, or to their camp. The next day and night the husband must keep sob^-T in order to care for his wife and the children while they take their turn at the rum. 48 ON MULEBACK We saw the wife with one arm around the neck of her husband carrying a child under the other arm, perhaps assisted by the older children, leading the husband, beastly drunk, from this place of worship. Again we saw the woman so drunk she was unable to maintain her equilibrium while dancing before the images, and after falling in the mud in raving delirium the husband would drag her away to be stretched out and covered up, more like animals than human beings. Our Catholic friends in America with all sleepy Protestants, must remember this thing is not done in a corner. This is not an uncommon occurrence, but a very common one. When we entered the room of the "dignitaries," the chiefs and their principal men who took the leading part in the worship, they received us very cordially and invited the writer and his interpreter to have a seat. The room was blue with smoke, and some of these leading Indians were too drunk to sit alone. They immediately offered us rum, then cigars and cigarettes, which of course were courteously refused. After the old chief had swung his censer from one room to another and returned again, we asked him to sell us the censer, which he stoutly refused to do. We begged him for some of the incentse, which is a native rosin. They held a conference and at first refused this, as it had been already cr n n n n W n ?r &] c/i o 3 O 3 3 THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 49 "measured," which made it very holy; but they finally decided to give us each a large spoonful. After thanking them for this favor we took our departure, but later when they were too drunk to remember whether the censer was yet holy or not, we asked another man to sell us the particular one they were using in their worship. He told us we could have it the next day after the feast was over ; but we insisted we had to leave and urged that we have the privilege of carrying the censer with us. One of the head men was very drunk and ordered us away, but when he left the room two others final- ly consented to sell us this "holy vessel." It was the one they were using in their "Roman Catholic" worship, but surely if heathen worship can be found, this is heathen. They were drinking in a beastly carousal, drinking to the health of God; they kissed the feet of these dirty wooden images, kissed the tables on which they sat, and kissed the ground in front of them. As we questioned them about the images they would tell us what great power they had. No, they do not worship the gods of clay; they did 400 years ago. But the images worshipped now are worshipped in the same spirit as the gods of their fathers centuries ago. May God pity, and His people pray for the bap- tized paganism in Central America. 50 ON MULEBAOK CHAPTER XI. TODAY OR NEVER. 'For four hundred years there hae not been the favorable opportunity for missionary work in Guate- mala, C. A., there is today. 'But the thing that should concern all interested in these benio-hteJ souls is that a few more years will in all probability close this wide open door. The Radical party is now in power, and they are ruling with an iron hand. This party hates the present system of Ro- manism, and in their public gatherings the politi- cians utter the most scathing words against the Ro- man priests, such as "Get rid of them; they hinder progress," etc. As Protestant missionaries advocate and help "with progress they are encouraged by being allowed to preach in school houses and other public build- ings. All papers and tracts printed here in the Re- public can be sent through the mails anywhere in the Republic and throughout Central America ab- solutely free. Brother Butler was allowed to hold meetings in an old Convent, which had been taken from the Roman Church by the Government when they drove the priest out of the place for drunken- ness. , At the present, Rome is making little or no prog- ress. Their churches are dilapidated piles of stone THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 51 and mortar, badly kept. In many towns of a few thousand population their large stone churches are tumbling down, and a. priest only comes once in one or three months. Some c'hurches, destroyed by earthquakes a few years ago, have never been re- built. It is only a question of a few years until the Conservative Party will get in power and then these golden opportunities will cease. Or even with the present party in power, the Roman authorities will soon make a howl about the favors being shown to Protestants, which will close many doors now open. Our hope is to "strike while the iron is hot."' We must, for the glory of God, get a good strong foot- hold now, so we will have influence when doors be- gin to close. We must get good schools and hos- pitals started and show the public we do not only believe in progress, but actually help with it. Tliose on the field who are prayerfully studying conditions here believe that if all the men and money that would be put in Guatemala in the next twenty-five years could be put in during the next three years, it would bring twenty-five times the re- sults by the end of the twenty-five years. The needs are appalling; the opportunities are golden; the neglect in the homeland is criminal. Pray ye therefore the Lord of the harvest to send forth reapers. 52 ON MULEBACOs: CHAPTER XII. BAJA VERA PAZ. Guatemala, C. A., being a Republic, is divided into twenty-three states. In the central part of the Republic one very important state is that of Baja Vera Paz. The location will not miss the geo- graphical center far. The name means "Low True Peace/' while the next door neighbor is the state of Alta Vera Paz, which means "High True Peace.'' In coming from Coban, the capital of Alta Vera Paz, to Baja Vera Paz, a distance of more than fifty miles, the traveler will have his choice of walk- ing or taking the saddle ; in either case three moun- tain ranges must be crossed, each one bringing him into a lower district. We left Coban in very rainy, chilly, muddy weather, but the second day out we tied our coats on the saddles while traveling through dust under a hot tropical sun, with everything about us having the appearance of a great desert. On reaching the top of the third mountain we saw the heart of Baja Vera Paz stretching out in front of us in a great basin-valley with twenty towais, cities and villages. Salama, a city of 12,000 people, is the capital of ■the state, and in fact it is a beautiful little place, well watered, but full of images, with no gospel or salvation. The state is, on the whole, very com- THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 53 pact. While of course there are a few thousand people scattered through the mountains, the greater part of the population will be found in the twenty towns. The writer left Salama one morning at 10 o'clock for Cubulca, thirty-five miles away. We passed through San Meguil Chica, a town of 1,500, and Ravinal, a much larger place, and reached Cubulca that evening in time for a service. Traveling in the opposite direction from the Capital it is only about one hour's ride to San Jeronemo, a place nearly as large as the capital. In all, this state contains more than 50,000 people, and there is not a missionary or native worker in all the territory, though it is within five days' travel of the United States. A good man with a consecrated wife could live In Salama and reach any part of the state on hort=e- back for a service the evening of the same day he left home. The population of the state is, we be- lieve, largely Indian. They are the most accessible Indians we have met, and very kind. The district has one great advantage, and that is, the Indians as well as the 'Tadinos," all speak Spanish ; one tongue puts the missionary in touch with all the people. The question is not "will the people hear the gospel since they are all Catholics?" That has been answered ; they are tired of being deluded, and want some light. The government is decidedly in favor of anything that offers light, elevation and 54 ON MUiLEBACiK help for the people. The governor "has shown us every kindness. We have been given the use of school houses, government theatres, and while in Salama the Governor himself came out to the ser- vice and spoke freely about these things.. One day'i ride from the railroad will take one to the center Qf the district. y Some one who is praying for the Lord to give him a place to work in Hie service can find it in Baja Vera Paz, The work will be hard and the results slow, but a people who are dying without God, with no hope of hearing about Him would hear. Only yesterday we rode up to a hut and asked for some *'tortella and frijoles" — ^beans and ashcakes. We sat on the dirt floor and ate our dinner. The old grandfather, 76 years of age, told one of our party that he knew nothing about how to get to heaven. He is tottering on the brink of the grave, living a few miles from a Roman Church, and no doubt has his name recorded as a member, but absolutely had no idea of salvation. >/ The Indians are even in a worse state, for they are hardly civilized. We have met scores of them in the road and had them run out and climb the rocks and banks to keep away from us, like fright- ened animals. To go to this district would mean hardships, but the people will get the gospel ; to stay in the United States there will be comforts, but this people will THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 55 live in ignorance and sin, die without hope and wake up in hell. Baja Vera Paz needs the gospel, and some man or woman must bring it. ^^As ye would the heathen should do unto you if you were where the heathen are, and the heathen were where you are, so do ye unto the heathen." 50 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER XIII. AN INDIAN FEAST. Just before reaching San Megiiil Chica we mcit two half-savage Indians who were bloody all over. One of them had his head tied up with a bloody cloth, and the other had a hole three inches long cut in his hat where he had been strack with a big knife. As we reached the town we came to a square given over to an Indian feast. How their red clothes did shine in the sun; dozens of them were cooking, others dancing, and all were there to "wor- ship." After tying our horses outside we went into the enclosure; we found them nearly all drinking, and a goodly number quite drunk. But our re- ception could not have been kinder. We went about in their midst shaking hands with them. After a while we were asked to eat. As our appetites had been somewhat encouraged we sat down on the ground, took our dinner in a gourd, and tried to do it justice, without either knife, fork or spoon. The crowd was very large, and the opportunities at such places are great. When we reached the central point of the feaet we spoke to the old chief in charge and entered a dark little hovel to find images of Jesus and others. Before these images they did their drinking and dancing. They bought a large number of Testaments and Gospels, but on account of the twenty-five miles lying ahead of us THEOUGH CENTEAL AMEEICA. 57 to be covered by night we could spend but little time with them. We had only gone a few squares until we met several men coming in a march, each carrying a doll in hic5 arms. We stopped them and learned that these were the 'Things" who went to see the Infant Jesus, and these men w'ere on a solemn religious march. As to why they did this, and what the results would be no one could tell. One of the men was old and blind, some were drunk, but we halted the procession and one of our party began reading to them, and urged them to flee from the wrath to come. Some who stopped a half square away gradually slipped down closer until they joined the crowd. In passing through the town we went into the Eoman Church and found the same things there we had found elsew^here. Over the old church men and women were burning candles, or waving an earthen pot with fire and burning rosin. We asked why they did it, but could scarcely get two answers alike. It must be remembered that most of these people who indulge in this kind of wort^hip are so ignorant they cannot read. The priests' services are '^few and far between," and generally in Latin. These poor wretches are almost in a hopeless state unless some one can take the time to go to them and read the Bible, explain it and tell them what to do, and why they are doing the things they now call worship. 58 ON MUlLEBACK CHAPTEE XIV. THROUGH BAJA VERA PAZ. We entered the state away back in the mountainb perhaps twenty miles before reaching the capital, Salama. As we passed through a village we looked up the long valley and saw two others, but our real campaign of the state did not begin unt;l we reached the capital. The governor very kindly gave us the use of the government theater for our services, and honored us with his presence; we doubt if we had a more in- terested person present. He talked at length after the service, expressing his desires for his people and the Eepublic he loves. In this place we found some interested, and in fact a few who, through the work of a native broth- er, had professed to accept Christ. After two nights in Salama we decided to push west for thirty- five or forty miles across two mountains. Our start was rather late, and we had the journey to make after 10 a. m. Three of our party arrived about 7:30 p. m., the other two about 9 p. m., after a long ride through unknown bushes. This was Cubulca, a place of considerable im- portance, with a few thousand people. Our visit occurred on New Year's eve, and everything was hilarious. Three men had arranged for our coming. These brethren gave every evidence of enjoying a o THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 59 good walk with their Master. One of them is the tailor who was led to Christ through reading the Gospel of Luke. They had rented and seated a large dirt-floored room where we held the service. Next door to us a Roman family had a dance all night in their saloon, where they had an image of Christ. About two doors on the other side of us we had another dance. These were two out of seven we counted that ran all night. At daylight the next morning we could see wives leading their drunken husbands home; husbands leading their wives, children their parents, and what seemed still worse, parents were leading their drunk children eight to fourteen years old. In our service the attention was good ; many heard the Word, and early the next morning while we were dressing there came a poor old drunken Romanist to ask more light on the Bible teaching of salvation. After the crowd had dispersed our friends carried in three cots and two of our party turned seats to- gether, so we were all in bed in a short time. This place where we held the service can be rented regu- larly for less than $1 per month, but there is no missionary to occupy it. Our breakfast next morning, where we ate and what we had is a profound secret. We had very little rest and less sleep during the night on account of the screams and cries of the drunken and fighting Indians. At midnight a very large procession led by torches on long poles, went out to bring in the 60 ON MULEIBAOK new city officials to take the place of those who were at that hour retiring from service. We bought one meal from one of the retiring officials and he expressed great interest in the Bible and its teach- ings. Leaving Cubulca Bro. Butler fell in with a na- tive boy 17 or 18 years old, who walked .as fast as we rode. As Bro. Butler talked to him about the advantages of knowing how to read, having an edu- cation, and giving his heart to God, he said he did hope the way would open for him to do it. He finally reached his home, a little trash hut on the bank of the river a short distance out of the city; and there we left him in ignorance and sin. On the way to Eavinal there was nothing of spe- cial importance. Arriving rather late we hurried at once to the government theater where the Lord blessed the service. Arising again at 4 a. m. next morning we were soon in the saddle and off for a long journey over high and steep mountains. At 2 p. m. we called at a native home and they con- sented to furnish us some "frijoles and tortellas." Our spread was prepared for us on the dirt floor of the porch where we sat on the ground and ate with- out "table tools." We soon found they knew noth- ing of Jesus Christ and the plan of salvation. One of the family, who had neared the four-score mile- stone, declared he knew nothing about how to get to heaven. In ascending the mountain we had to turn our THEOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 61 liorses loose and drive them while we walked for over an hour right up the steeps. As we turned down the other side the writer discovered that a trouble he is having with circulation in his limbs made it necessary for him to get off and walk down also. Passing through San Meguil Chica we reached Salama in time for dinner, then journeyed on to San Jeronemo. We passed through acres of terri- tory with walls around it which was once watered by great aqueducts and owned by the monks, but all is decay and ruin now. Tyranny, the desire t) maintain ignorance, and the covetous spirit have all been reaping what they eowed. After a service at San Jeronemo arrangements were made for government mules to take us to the railroad, a distance of about forty miles through the mountains. Bro. Butler, who had been with us since we landed in Port Barrios on November IG, took our four horses and returned to Coban. After an affectionate good-bye we separated, he to climb one mountain, we another, going in opposite direc- tions. We asked ithe government for three mules to ride and one to pack our baggage; but they said we could have the three to ride, and they would give us an Indian to carry our things. The Indian was a soldier and got nothing personally from them for what he did, though he carried a heavy load on his back for forty or fifty miles right through the &2 ON MULEBACK mountains. He kept right up with us though we pushed our mules at a good gait. We took great pleasure in giving him his meals, which we were not expected to do, and at the end of the journey gave him money for his personal use. The last day of the journey just after daylight we passed through a good sized village where there was a family of believers. The man and his wife •came to the gate with an affectionate greeting and begged us to stop and have breakfast, or at least wait for them to bring up the cow and get us a glass of milk. As we started on the man assured us that they and all they had was at our service for the Lord. We arrived at El Eancho about 9 a. m. where we took the train and traveled thirty-nine miles by rail as second class passengers to Zacapa, where we took other horses to continue our journey to Chiquimula to hold the camp meeting for the Friends Church. Simeon, one of our native Indian workers, has ac- companied us on foot and is going to the camp also. He has come 160 miles, having traveled 120 of it on foot. At the depot in Zacapa Bro. Conway Anderson, a missionary, met us. We had expected Bros. Jack- son and Dunkum, but heard Bro. Dunkum was in bed with fever, and Bro. Jackson had just had a siege of it. Through all they are keeping their spirits up, and their faith in God. No one but the missionary knows the trials, tet=itings and disap- pointments of a missionary. God bless them all. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. G3 CHAPTER XV. ONE GOSPEL." Touching incidents illustrating the profit of scat- tering the word of God in print are continually be- fore the writer. One of our native preachers in Guatemala, C. A., called on a tailor who, of course, was a Romanist. He asked the tailor to buy a copy of the gospel of Luke, which he was selling for three-fourths of a cent. The man was entirely in- different and refused to pay any attention to the matter. Before leaving the place Brother Tito gave him the copy of Luke's gospel, asking him to read it, which the man would not promise to do; but after the missionary was gone, the tailor said, "I am going to see what thgit is, for everybody says it is a lie." He began to read and could not stop until he had read it through. He then sent to a Christian in the town for the Gospel of Matthew, but the man knowing the tailor's reputation, refused to send it to him. He sent for it a second and a third timo, and finally went in person. After reading it he bought the entire Testament and professed to get saved. After a few weeks he got drunk. He then prayed harder than ever and seemed to really find God. When the native preacher returned the man bore a good testimony, and asked the people pub- CA. ON MULEBACK licly whether or not he was living a Christian life. This is one of many like incidents we could give as a testimony to the profit of spreading the printed Word. During the last eight days we have entered eight towns where, so far as we were able to learn, there had never been a Christian service, and if there had been a copy of God's word sold or given away we did not hear of it. In connection with our services we urged the people to buy a Testament or Gospel : the latter we sold for one "real," which is five- eighths of a cent. We prefer selling them because they value it much higher if they pay for it. They do not only buy them but read them. At Sarstoon, upon the Eiver Sarstoon, we only had thirty minutes to stay, and just before leaving Bro. Butler went to one side of the town to buy some bread. There he found a man sitting in front of his hut reading the Testament he had bought only ten or fifteen minutes before. When we have heard workers from these fields speak of how many portions of scriptures they had sold in a day we have been inclined to criticise ; but now that we have learned what they knew, we can say that no greater work can be accomplished in these Eoman countries than to scatter the printed Word. Money invested in cheap Testaments, and in the support of a worker to travel about holding services and selling the Word, will tell in eternity. In addition to Bibles, Testaments and Gospels, Some who Walked over loo Miles to Hear The Gospel. TTTEOUGII CENTRAL z\MEETCA. 05 the natives beg for books and tracts in their own language. They could not pay the full price, l)ut would gladly pay some price if they bad the oppor- tunity. Nine-tenths of theee deluded people are in this present plight because they have had Roman priests do their tliinling for them for the past four hundred years. They are now tired of it and want liberty. The hope of this people and the church of Jesus Christ in their midst is the spread of the Bi- ble and Bible literature to open their eyes, and then they cannot remain true to Rome. fiC) ON MULEBACK CHAPTER XVI. STRANGERS^ IN A STRANGE LAND, AMONG A STRANGE PEOPLE, WITH A STRANGE TONGUE. Americans who have always been surrounded by English speaking people, have very little idea what it means to be among a people whose language they do not know, and whose customs are strange. For instance, among Spanish speaking people, if you motion with the hand as we Americans do when we want some one to come to us, it means "go," "be- gone," or "go on." While if you want the person to come to you, it is necessary to wave back at them as we do when we want a person to go. The same is true of the motion of the head. The writer and Brother James V. Eeid had an experience on the night of December 31, the last night of the old year. Our party consisting of five men, left Salama, the capital of Baja Vera Paz, for another city thirty-ifive miles distant, across two mountains. We planned to reach the pilace at 7 :30 p. m. and had sent word they should arrange for a service as there were two believers in the place. Brother Eeid and the writer got ahead in the journey after dinner and pushed on, even when dark had overtaken us. Near 7 :30 we saw signs of a village or town, but was it Cubulca? Halting at an Indian hut .we called and called. We thought we knew a few words of the language, so tried to THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 07 say, "Excuse me, Senor; excuse me, Senora," Some one finally appeared at the front with a pine torch, and we asked what we hoped was, "Is this the road to Cubulca ?" Three Indian woaien having marched out, we repeated our question, to which they re- plied with great signs and lying wonders, motion- ing every part of the compass, even including heav- enly directions and the other also. We thought they finished by pointing on up the road, and feel- ing somewhat confident, but still with many mis- givings, we spurred up and galloped off. Passing some pedestrians we tried the same question on them and received the same answer, or at least an answer that looked the same. In a little while we called at another Indian hut and exhausted our vo- cabulary on them, hoping we had asked correctly, but we have both decided to go down to the silent tomb (if He delays His coming) not knowing Just what we asked, or exactly what reply we received. A little further on Brother Reid asked an old In- dian the road and how far it was to Cubulca, in great glee he replied, "Yes, yes." We next met n drunken man riding a sober horse, while his wife-or a woman to whom he should have been married — walked with a large child on her back. We asked this gentleman of leisure, "Is this the road to Cu- bulca?" He also seemed to encourage us, so we pushed on. Our road, which was once a cart road, had degen- erated into a bridle trail, which finally led us to 68 ON MULEBACK the bank of a mountain stream, along which we traveled peacefnlly until the little gray steed of the writer saw himself, in the water, and not being pleased with the likeness traveled (side ways) up into a patch of thorns. As a result we had to have the knife (a pocket one) applied the next morning to remove "the thorn in the flesh." After dis- mounting we tried to coax, persuade and uje corpo- ral punishment, but found nothing effective; t-o as a 'last resort we took position on the upper side of the bank and with all our strength pushed our animal into the path again, where he discovered that the trouble was not real, but imaginary, and all caused by himself. At last our path lost itself in the bed of the stream which we followed as long as there was footing for the animals. The writer said, "Eeid, this will never take us to Cubulca." He replied, "What do you suppose the folks at home would say ?" The reader will un- derstand this was only a. small part of the conver- sation we held, for after halting — ^when our animals refused to go further — we dismounted there in a wilderness of rocks and brush at the base of a moun- tain — and had conversations not lawful to mention. After our animals had refused to respond further to our urgent persuadings, we dismounted and looked ahead and found we were ready to plunge over some rocks which would have meant work for a hospita'l. We held council between ourselves and decided if that was Cubulca it was time to leave, THEOU'GH CENTRAL AMEEICA. G9 and if it was not Cubulca it was time to find the town. On taking observations we found that wliile we had traveled al;l evening facing the evening star, we were now going with our backs to it, until we had ceased going at all. After retracing our steps until w^e found the trail again, the writer said, "Reid, I hadn't men- tioned it, but the thing that pried my hat up and made me feel funny was the fact that there are all kinds of wild animals in this region." Reid re- plied, "Well, don't say anything about it for a little while, until we get out of here." We did not think seriously until we were talking the next day and were told that a large bear had even ventured into town a few days before. After returning to the point where we first asked the direction we found that we were even in the edge of Cubulca, and did not know it. After reach- ing the town the next question was to find the place where the service was to be held, for we did not know where to stop. The whole town was in a hila- rious uproar of music, daijcing and celebration, and •we were quite at a loss to 'find our brethren. But after wending our way through one street and an- other, again putting to the test our Spanish vocab- ulary, we were finally directed to where the "Pro- testants were showing their vistas," and found the brethren in the midst of the service. We retired that night somewhat weary from our extended ride, but the richer in experience and illustrations. 70 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER XVII. MY LAST NIGHT. After spending several days and nights in the state of Baja Vera Paz we left early one morning for the last town we were to visit. Ten miles brought us to the abrupt beginning of a high and steep mountain. Our mules were large, fresh gov- ernment mules, and well able for the trip. The plain below was hot and dry, but we had not climbed more than thirty minutes before we wanted our coats, and in a little while our rain coats and finally umbrellas, for we were right in the clouds, where the wind was heavy and uncomfortably cool. From the heights we could look down where vve were a short time before and see a hot tropical sun scorching all vegetation. A little after 12 o'clock we halted in front of two Indian huts and asked for some food. The huts, standing side by side, we cannot describe suf- ficiently to give the reader a good idea of them. A few litle poles were used for sides. One point in favor of the place was fresh air. The floors were mother earth. The huts were about 8x10 feet, and occupied by twelve Indians. When we began eat- ing one of the brethren said the dirt was clean, so if that be decided upon we need not fear. The women and children were dressed for the hottest THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. 71 weather, provided they stayed in the shade. Our dinner was principally "frijoles and tortellas," i. e., black beans and corn cakes, made of crashed corn with no other ingredient but water. Having no knife, fork or spoon we found our fingers conven- ient. After brashing away bugs, etc., and fighting off a bunch of dogs, we ate a much desired dinner and told the people about Jesus, bade them good-bye and left one of our party reading the Tes- tament to them. He sold them a Testament and two Gospels. We then rode off trusting we might have as good for supper — but we did not, and it \'. best not to undertake a description. The afternoon carried us down the valley and along near the foot of a mountain. We passed through several villages of 20 to 40 huts, but no missionary or gospel. It was about night when we rode into Morazon, our last town in the state. Af- ter finding our lodging place we dismounted, walked into the dirt-floored porch, pushed our way through a bunch of dogs and around a large hog eating Jn the middle of the floor. We were disappointed to find that all the citv officials were out of town on a fishing trip and we could not arrange for a public building that night. But our landlady gladly of- fered us her largest room, which did the four- fold work of office, sitting-room, bedroom and bar-room. We stretched the screen in one end and began the service. The people came and the service was in- deed a success. At the close the mayor who had 72 ON MULEBACK returned, came forward and expressed his regrets at not being there early enough to open a public build- ing, and said, "You are preaching my religion and this town is at your service. We are glad to have you help us out of this ignorance and darkness." With many words he assured us of his hearty sym- pathy, begging us to return. We slept there on cots made of strings stretched across wooden frames, with a palm mat on each one. Just before 4 o'clock next morning we arose, ate some "frijoles and tortellas" and were in the saddle at 5 a. m. ready for a fifteen mile ride to catch a train. At the close of a:ll such services they begged for tracts and papers, bought testaments and gospels, and asked for more light on the Bible. The reader will agree with us that such people should not be wholly neglected, but who is to go, or who will send those who are willing to go? After they are there who will pray for tliem? THEOUGH CENTEAL AMEEICA. 73 CHAPTEE XVIII. THE FRIENDS CAMP. Before leaving the states it had been planned for us to attend the annual conference and camp meet- ing of the Friends Mission in Chiquimula, Guate- mala. The date arranged for was Januaiy 7 to 13. We had to travel on horseback from the northern part of the country to a point on the little railroad. Thence thirty-nine miles by rail as second class pas- sengers; then twenty-five miles again in the saddle. We arose at 2 o'clock in the morning to make ready for this last stretch of the trip, and arrived about 8 a. m. The battle opened at once. This was their regular annual meeting and well attended fron various parts of Central America. We counted ten persons who came one hundred miles or more, and so far as we were able to learn only one of them rode. He came on a mule. In the absence of Miss Smith, the Superintendent, who was in the United Statet? on account of her healtli, Miss Burke was in charge of the work. Her rare ability to manage and direct the work in general and the camp in particular, was indeed noticeable. The services were at 8 :30 a. m., 2 :30 and 7 p. m. 'Practically all the services were marked with deep conviction and seekers at the altar. Those of our readers who have never been embarrassed by trying 74 ON MULEBACK to preach with an interpreter can not sympathize with one whose heart is fired with a message and sees a hungry hearted multitude, eager for the mes- sage, but must give a sentence, and then wait for another man to repeat it. This was our lot in the greater part of our work in Central America. But Be was pleased to bless the Word even when it went in this second-handed way to the hearer. As we watched those bare-footed people press their way to the altar after they had tramped through the mountains fifty or a hundred miles, stopping by the roadside at night, our hearts would melt; and tears claimed a place when big strong Indians would kneel at the altar and literally bel- low as they cried for God to save them from their sins. The Word did indeed prove a "savor of life." Many who attended the meeting slept on the floor or on benches. One woman with two little giris, one not more than seven years old, walked about one hundred miles and slept by the roadside at nights. We know her well, and have been in her home. In fact the idol she worshipped we are carrying with us now. She and the little girl were at the altar a few hours after they arrived, and when the conference was over they arranged for work so they could stay for a while to ''learn the gospel." Little girls with divine conviction for sin came to the altar and ofttimes prayed until they could THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 75 be heard many blocks away. The part of the work that appealed to the writer was that the people really prayed through to victory. The twelve Americans present seemed to have the best time of all. How they did drink down the messages and tell of the great need of missionary evangelism. The reader must understand that work in Roman Catholic countries is slow. This great camp was the result of many years of hard aiid faithful toil on the part of the missionaries in charge. For them to see twenty-five to seventy-five people at the altar at one time was to see the fruit of their faith- ful sowing in the past. The last day of the meeting we began the morn- ing service at 8 a. m. and it lasted until 1 :30 p. m. We counted nearly a hundred at the altar in this service. There were children and white headed men and women. Most of them were bare footed and wearing few clothes; but He, who is no re- specter of persons, heard their cries. The writer has never yet listened to such clear, spontaneous testimonies. After the altar t=ervice Avould continue for a time the voluntary cries for mercy would begin to change into ringing testimo- nies, and these were also voluntary, for tliey did not have to be told when they were through. An Indian would rise to his feet and, facing the con- gregation, with his hand up would begin to preach. Oh, what sermons! Then a Spaniard or a child 76 ON MULEBACK would follow. No one was told to do it; oh no, it wasn't necessary ; they wept if they did not get the privilege. At one service a bo}', possibly twelve or thirteen years of age, stood waiting for his turn, until it looked as though the service would close before he could tell how Jesus had saved him from sin. Fearing he had lost his opportunity to testify, he began to weep bitterly. Indeed it seemed that if these could not get to speak, the stones would cry out and praise God. Some of the children are from various parts of the republic, but are there in school. The Americans present agreed that a conference in the states like this one would be counted the greatest camp in the whole country. The tired, over-worked missionaries declared they had received as much, or more, out of that meeting than the na- tives. Why not add this country to the evangelistic field of the United States? THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 77 CHAPTER XIX. A NOON MEETING. In arranofinof our muleback tour of Honduras, Salvador and Guatemala, it was found we must pass through San Alena, a small town six or eight miles from our starting point. The "believers" at San xAlena insisted on a ser- vice. We arrived about 10 a. m. and found many Indians and "Ladinos" gathered for the service. They had prepared dinner for us which we ate at once. True, the meal served would not have been very acceptable in a fashionable home in America, and the style in which it was served would hardly do justice to the "Astor House" in Xew York; but for tired missionaries with a dozen mountains and a few hundred miles of rough, hot traveling before them, it was indeed a treat. Upon our arrival we 'first unsaddled our mules and, as usual, proceed to pull off our leggings and shoes, stretched out flat on our backs to rest, and if possible, get a few moments of sleep, for we gen- erally made fifty miles or more every day, and ^o do this we had to arise from 2 to 4 o'clock in the morning. Our "noon nap" was usually under a tree by the roadside, or on a pile of corn ; perhaps in some na- tive bed — no springs, mattress or bedding, but we 78 ON MULEBACK always tried to find time to take off the saddles and let the mules roll in the dirt while we lay still, as we did not feel like rolling. After our rest and dinner, we proceeded with the service. The dress of the people in the congre- gation we will not describe. Of course, shoes are rare and odd. Many of the women were dressed much "up to date." We would not accuse these dear Indians of copying after American women, but we do believe that if our own women could see how much alike the two ends of society are dressed, the so-called upper end would quit dressing from choice like the lower end of society dress from necessity. As we preached, they wept and shouted. The presence of the Lord was very manifest. At the close of the meeting we had a great time saying good-bye. Oh, how they cling to those who carry them the gospel ! We mounted and rode off at a pretty good gallop, but found some were in front of us and others behind, but catching up. We in- quired if they lived up that way, and they said, "Oh, no, we are going with you to Zagualtipeca for the night service." But wdiat of that, it is only a littie afternoon stroll of fifteen or eighteen miles; what do they care for that ? Bare-footed women and children kept in front of us; one little boy not more than iive years old, wearing a "shirt" and nothing else, would at times get so far ahead we could not see him. Were they tired? The writer riding a good mule was tired, THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 79 but with eagerness they prayed and shouted through the niglit seniee, and then lay down on the stone floor to sleep. Others rode over and arose with us the next morning at 2 o'clock. After we were all in the saddle we told them good-bye, and as they went back to their homes wo pressed up the side of a mountain in the dark. For generations their fathers have been taught that relig- ion consists of hard pilgrimages, and when they are saved they gladly endure hardness like good soldiers and do not say anything about it. We believe the reader, like the writer, would en- joy helping those who, when they are saved, count it a privilege to suffer for Him. WTiile writing in our stopping place one day we heard one of our In- dian boys praying who had tramped over three hun- dred miles with a pack on his back; he did it all for Jesus, and when I wanted to pay him he threw up his hand and said, "No, no, it was all for Dios- God." The man who supports a missionary for one year and the missionary succeeds during the year in liringing to Christ one such soul, has certainly in- vested monev to a good advantage. 80 ON MULEBxVCK •CHAPTER XX. ORDERED AWAY IN TWENTY-FOUR HOURS. Ocotapeca, Honduras, holds the record for fanati- cism. We learned through the missionaries in Gua- temala that they had arrested and locked up work- ers in the past, one colporteur of the American Bi- ble Society having been repeatedly locked up. Fear- ing trouble on our arrival we wanted to get in early, so we left Esquipulas at 3:30 a. m. We reached the Honduras border at 8, but had many mountain miles ahead of us. To arise at 2 or 2 :30 a. m., after using coat and trousers for mattress and springs, then eat out of gourds and travel fifty miles over mountains, makes one feel much like praying or fainting. We did the former. Upon our arrival in Ocotapeca we inquired for a man of whom we had heard and had reason to think was a "T^eliever." Though we were on his street and near his house, no one could tell us where he lived. We asked one lady and she said she did, but asked with the next breath, "Do you believe with him; are you of his following?" When we answered in the affirmative she said at once she did not know the man. Finally an officer told us to go to the Chief of Police at once. Of course we obeyed orders and on our arrival he asked wliere we were from, where we were going, how long we would stay, etc. We told Come Over — Help Us. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 81 him who we were, and what we had come for, and if he would come up to the service that night he could see for himself. After taking our names he straightened up and said, "I will give you twenty- four hours to get out of town, and if you are not out in that time I will put you under arrest." We told him we expected to behave ourselves and we would stay until we got ready to go. We had in mind all the while the two American men who were killed in Honduras a few weeks be- fore, and we remembered also that the United States made the Honduras government pay heavily for it. We hoped this would help us but we did not know. We found a place where we could stay and just at night an officer came from the chief and said, "If you expect to have service tonight you must come and get license or you cannot have it." Bro. Edwards, our interpreter, ran at once to the chief's oi^ce, but he was not there. He then went to the other head officer and he was not in. We saw, of course, it was a put up job to keep us from having the meeting. AH tlie while we saw three priests going to and fro, keeping a close eye on everything. Brother Edwards then went to the Governor and told him what word we had received. He said, "Now, Governor, you have religious liberty in your constitution and we know it. They are trying to force us not to have a service but we are going to have it." 89 ON MULEBAOK "Well," replied the Governor, "you can go on, but you cannot sing." What they wanted was to prevent the service if possible, and if not, to fix !t so no one would be attracted. Brother Edwards replied, "Well, you come and see if we don't sing, and if you expect trouble you had better have officers there, for we will have the meeting. We are going to act like gentlemen, and we demand that you treat us as such." Eesults: The house was crowded to the door; the street full, and they listened with rapt atten- tion. When we finished many came to us and beg- ged us to go on, and have another service before they went home. We heard them as they left say- ing, "What do you think of that? The Protest- ants do believe in Jesus and in God both. Well, I didn't know that." We found thatHe can open and no man can shut, and indeed it proved an effectual door. All we need to do is to preach the truth, scatter Bibles and Testaments, and the Word of God itself is the worst enemy Eoman Catholicism has. We knew it would not do to leave before day- light, or we would be arrested. One of our party was taken off of his horse before daylight the morn- ing previous by an officer, and now they were mad and wanting a chance to cause us trouble. Yet we had more than fifty miles for that day, and the worst roads we had seen. Most all of these little towns are under military law or at least on that THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 83 order, and if one walks up the street after 9 p. m. or before 5 a. m., he is halted, and if a satisfactory explanation is not given for being out at that hour he is locked up. The writer has been called on to halt repeatedly, but would reply that he did not un- derstand Spanish and they let us go on thinking we did not know better. Many people in Ocotopet-a begged us to come back and remain with them ; they wanted us to tell where we were going and when we would be back to give them more of the gospel. He who is seeking an open door can find one here. It may prove a jail door soon, but they want the gospel. 84 ON MULEBACK CHAPTEE XXI. UNDEE ARREST. As the Central American republics are very small and crowded together dlosely care must be taken. Since a large per cent of the people are out to do wrong they naturally mistrust others, believing them to be dishonest also. We had pushed our mules all day, but before reaching Metapan, Salva- dor, we saw night was on us, so we applied spurs to the tired animals and went at a gallop until we reached the place. As we made a quick turn in the road we found ourse^lves in the street leading right through the little city. The sun was setting and dark already beginning to fall. We looked ahead and there stood an armed officer who stepped out in the street and told us to stop. After asking questions enough to find we were from Honduras he said he must take us to police headquarters. Brother Edwards explained that we were going to stop over night and go right on the next morn- ing, but we had to go with him. "Well," said Ed- wards, pointing to the writer, "he cannot speak 'Spanish ; let him go on and I will go for the crowd." No, not one could escape ; we must march down the street under his personal escort, and march we did. We cannot say that we particularly enjoyed it, but THEOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 85 decided to go on and let him have his way, espe- cially since we could not help ourselves. However, we fell into the hands of a fine man as Chief of Police, and he turned us loose, telling us what place to go for the night. We rode up and made a contract for a large room in w^hich we were to sleep and have the service alone. We were to get our meals and feed for the mules also. The saddles were off, and w-e were shaving when the woman of the house came to the door. It was evident she was a very strong Eomanist for we found a big "saint" in one room. 'She had no doubt received her orders from the priest, for she told us to get out at once, as she did not want to be bothered with us. We were slow to accept the orders, and especially slow to execute them. She called out the second and third time, telling us we would be very much trouble to her and to get right out at once, for she did not want us, and would not have us there. Well, what were we to do? The officer ordered us to go there, to get off the street, and now she was ordering us to leave. We did not want to sleep out in the fields, and moreover we wanted to hold a service. Bro. Edwards stepped to the door with the lather on one side of his face and the other side shaven, and said, '^e will not go. The chief of police sent us here, and we made a contract to stay, and vve are not going." "But you are much trouble to 86 ON MULEBAOK me," she replied. "Yes, and you are much trouble to us, and we are not going; we are going to pay what the contract calls for and you Just dare put us out. We are hungry and want our supper so we can have the meeting." Again the God of battles was with us and gave the victory. We stayed and the old lady invited her friends in, and we had a great service. Our Indian boys and the native preacher were out on the street and heard them talking about the meeting after it closed. They were telling how surprised they were to find what the Protestants be- lieved, and how the priests had lied to them in say- ing the Protestants did not believe in Christ or that Mary was a virgin, etc. The interest was so great they bought all the Bibles and Testaments we had. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 87 CHAPTER XXII. IN THE HANDS OF EOBBKIIS. We have spoken before of how the many revolu- tions in the Central American countries have re- sulted in the land being infested with robbers. The habit practiced in most parts of putting up a cro^s where a man has been killed has resulted in many road sides being dotted all along with crosses, the newer ones still bearing the name of the man and the date he was murdered. The farther back in the mountains the more com- mon this is. In many places we have been warned to be careful and not travel before day light or after dark. We were in Honduras the first time we really got a taste of robber life and had good reasons to wish our surroundings were different. The first incident was when we were taking a few days' trip on foot and had stopped in a village to hire a man to go along and carry our baggage. Af- ter arranging with him, he brought "his friend" who wanted to go also, as the first one felt the load would be rather heavy for him alone. So we agreed to pay a little more, board both of them and let them divide the money. The first thing naturally was to get them some food before they could start. They then came with two more who were going 88 ON MULEBACK along for company and were to board themselves. We began feeling a little uncomfortable, but said nothing. After we were on the way we discovered our men were heavily armed with revolvers belted around them and "machetes" hanging to the belts also. It was only a little while until they began inquiring if we were armed. By the time we were well out in the forest and climbing the mountains, they be- gan falling back with our baggage, until we would have to keep waiting for them. We overheard them at various times talking about us, but it 'had been our hope all along to reach the town before night. To our surprise, night ran us down juai as our streno-th was giving out, and we were in a swampy forest. No house, no friends, except our escort of four, who began insisting that we stop for the night, and renewed their questions about wheth- er we were armed. We finally opened up our rolls and with our blankets and 'olothes made such beds as we could. But our Indians would not quiet down; they kept going out in the bushes two at a time to talk. After awhile we told them they must now get to bed. Our light was out, but we had that peculiar sensation that some one was looking at us. Finally we flashed a little "electric flash light" which we carried along, and the best armed man of the crowd had his eyes wide open and was looking right at us. The "flash light" frightened them. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 89 and the fellow who was looking at us jumped, but Brother Edwards said in a quiet tone: "Never mind, go to sleep; it doesn't shoot unless we touch the trigger; that is just the light." The men said : "Buenos noehes, Senors," (good night, my lords) and they went to sleep. But the fun was not over. I have a habit of lighting a candle or the lantern long enough before the others of the party arise, to read a few chapters from His word. As we were planning to leave at 3 a. m. it was necessary for me to stir pretty early. On account of the weight of my money belt which I wore under my clothes during the hours of travel, T had taken it off after we were in bed and with my watch securely tucked away in it, I stretched the belt lengthwise between us under the cover. Awak- ening quite early I got hold of my flash light, and then quietly reached down between myself and my interpreter to get my watch out of the belt. Bro. Edwards felt me reaching for the belt and grabbed my hand with all his might, threw his arm around my own and proceeded to take me prisoner for try- ing to steal what little money we carried. I had to awaken him and assure him it was a missionary and not an Indian. After a hard ti-amp that day the writer was laid up physically and this was a good excuse for us to dispose of our traveling companions. The most serious time we had with robbers was in another part of the country. We were riding 90 ON MUIiEBACK along when.! a native came into the road by our side with a big gun strapped over his shoulder and asked where we were going, saying he was going with us. We gave him- a very cool reply as to where we were going and did not express ourselves about his company, but ju?t pushed our animals up a lit- tle. As we were entering a village we soon halted to give our animals some food and get a lunch for ourselves. The man rode up in five minutes, dis- mounted and took a lunch also. We lay down by the roadside to rest and he talked to our hostess. Brother Edwards could hear the conversation at times, though they talked very low. We heard enough to know the man was planning against us, and at one time Brother Edwards opened his eyes Just in time to find the man with his gun pointed right at him. After telling the woman in a very low voice what he would do, etc., 'be got on his mule and rode off. We soon began saddling to move on, when the woman warned us not to go or we would be robbed. Whether she was our friend, or helping to plot against us we did not know, and there was no way to find out. If we stayed was the man to return? Or was she our friend really warning us against danger ahead? We prayed and weighed the matter the best we could. Thirty miles would put us in a city with an American Consul and with officers. It was then late in the afternoon, and we had thirty miles ahead THEOUGH CENTKAL AMERICA. 91 of us right across a mountain. Our animals liad traveled until late the night before; we started at daylight that morning and had made the best time of any day's travel. We felt it best to press for- ward, trusting Jesus. It only took thirty minutes to sight our man ahead of us traveling slowly. We put spurs to our animals. Finally we found a place where a by- path led right up the side of the mountain, while the plain road went around. Our man had taken the better road so we cut across on the shorter path. Dismounting we pressed our mules, hoping to cut in ahead, but kept our eyes on our new acquaint- ance. We were looking at him when he first saw us and the moment he got his eye on us he turned immediately to the left, leaving the road, and start- ed straight through the bu^h toward us. By this time we had mounted again and were spurring up. The good Lord who has used various means to cai'e for his servants, but who has never failed to care for them in some way, brought along a "mule train" Just at that time. We knew no harm could be done while these men with the mule train were in sight, so we arranged for the writer to ride in front, Brother Edwards behind, so I could turn around and talk to him, at the same time watching our pursuer. We began to push ahead faster than ever. Get- ting a hill between us we ran our animals for some time, but to our surprise when we looked back we 92 ON MULEBACK saw him in sight. We prayed and spurred our mules, while he pursued. It is possible we were needlessly friglitened, but in speaking to an agent of the American Bible So- ciety of the occurrence he said we did well to get tfirough, for the village referred to, and one near it, were the worst places for robbers and murderers in all that part of Central America. He told us of a pitched battle there between a band of robbers and the people of the village, six of the robbers and one man from the village beino- killed. How we have thanked our heavenly Father that on those trips He verified the promise to let His angel encamp round about His own. This He has fulfilled in our case dozens of times. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 93 CHAPTER XXIII. HONDURAS FROM THE INTERIOR. After touching Honduras from the Guatemala side where we visited Oeotapeca and were given twenty-four hours to get out of the country, we went back to the coast, down to Port Cortez, and entered again at that point from the Atlantic, pressing through by Tegucigalpa the capital, and on to Amapala on the Pacific Coast. We have no doubt from what we learned that Honduras has great natural wealth. There are many gold mines and much of the land is indeed very fertile. Most anything in the way of tropical fruits can be grown with great success. Honduras extends from the Atlantic, clear across to the Pacific, with ports of entry on both coasts. It is hard in any of these countries to get anything in the way of statistics that can be relied upon. The population is variously estimated at from 700,- 000 to 1,000,000 people. Judging from what we saw, the Honduranian is principally Indian and Spanis'h-Indian, with comparatively few real Span- ish people. The language is Spanish, The In- dians, so far as we could find, all speak Spanish. Of course, the Spanish is not pure, but a rather crude sort. Down on the Atlantic coast the Eng- lish language is largely used and we were told that 94 ON MULEBACK it is rapidly jjDreadiiig. This is due to the fact that Americans are making large investments through there in fruit farms, gold mines, etc. Tegucigalpa, the new 'capital of Honduras, is in the far interior just beyond the ^^divide" on the Pa- cific slope. This puts it up a few thousand feet high, and the climate is very good. There are many Ameri(^an interests in the capital, just as in other parts of the country. We found a number of busi- ness men there from the United States, and more from Germany. In each valley as we crossed the country we would find a good sized town or small city. They were nestled down there between mountains from one to three hundred miles from tlie coast, with no pos- sible way of reaching the outside world except on foot, the back of a mule or by ox-cart. All freight must be transferred in the same way. It is a com- mon thing to meet a "mule train" coming aroun.l the side of the mountain on a little mountain trail. This mule train consists usually of twenty or thirty mules led by a man riding in front to direct the way, with two or tliree helpers following along keeping the mules in the path, and seeing that the loads are properly fastened on their backs. These cargo for eaioh mule consists perhaps of two small barrels or large kegs of rum; or it may be dry goods, groceries or hardware, for all goods must be carried in this way. This same mule train has likely taken a load of coffee or some ot^er pro- THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 95 duct of the countiy out to the port, and on their re- turn bring a load of imported products. Of course, this makes all articles not grown or made in the country very expensive. The roads vary in quality. We have ridden or walked where with reasonable ease, an auto could have been run, when all at once it changed to a bridle path so poor we could hardly distinguish it, and at times we found it extremely dangerous io take our animal over. In fact, we sometimes found it necessary to dismount and lead or drive our mules. We would not care to describe some roads we have seen used as cart roads. Had we been toid they were used for carts w^e would not have believed it, but we saw the carts being drawn by the oxen. These carts — the only vehicle we saw — were two- wheeled, and the wheels were made of solid wood with an iron tire. 90 ON MULEBACK CHAPTER XXIV. EATEN" ALIVE. The general impression about the health of Cen- tral America is misleading. Most people visiting these countries only touch the coast towns where, of course, it is low and swampy. This necessarily makes it a nest for mosquitoes, and consequently fever districts. But Central America as a whole is not swampy, nor are there many mosquitoes, for the country is mountainous. Back from the Atlantic coast the broken hill and mountain district begins; while on the Pacific side it is just like North 'and South America — the e'levation begins right at the coast. Some of the towns and cities are from four to seven thousand feet above the sea level. This does not act entirely as a quarantine against the poor, hated, despised and long fought, old mos- quito, for down on the coast they flourish; and up some of the rivers, especially in the swampy wood- land where it has not been cleared and ditched, they do not need the command in Genesis to ''be fruit- ful and multiply and replenish the earth." That is their hobby; it seems to be the purpose for which they were created. While we generally carried a mosquito bar or net- ting with us, we seldom used it away from the coast. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 97 We usually needed a blanket instead. One night, however, we did need the netting when we did not have it. After tramping all day, and until dark, we crossed the Rio Blanco — White River — and there found an Indian hut. They agreed to furnish us some corn cakes for our supper. Being so tired it seemed we could not possibly make another mile we decided to stop for the night. They had no room to offer us for sleeping, so we had to take to the woods. Bro. Edwards and the writer found a few punch- eon boards, where once there had been a bridge l)uilt across this river. On two poles we made a scaffold on which we spread our clothes and one of our cotton blankets; the other blanket we kept to cover with. We were fighting mosquitoes while erecting our quarters, but when we were once quieted down they called in all their neighbors and seemed to be say- ing, "We have met our first American tonight and must make it so warm for them they will not re- turn." There was a time when they commenced, but they never ceased. Finally we got up and went to the Indian hut, having seen a netting made of thin do- mestic, and offered the old woman $5 for the use of her "mosquito netting" until 3 o'clock the next morning. (It was $5 of their money, equaling about $2 American money.) With a sneer that would have befitted a millionaire she said, "I would 98 ON MULEBACK not be troubled witli tbem pesky things till morning for twenty dollars," and turned aiway from us. My interpreter tried to make a plea for it on the grounds that I was sick, but it did not take hold, so in our bare feet and pajamas we tunied back to our place in the woods. After trying one plan and then another, we finally pulled our blanket clear over our heads, turned our faces down and put our noses right in the crack between two of the puncheon boards. Thus we breathed through a crack in tlie bottom of our bed and kept covered up, heads and heels, except when one of us moved, and then we were promptly notified by the mosquitoes. After such a night, any physician reading these lines will not be surprised when we say that the next afternoon we began to chill and had high fever. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 99 CHAPTER XXV. HOTELS BY THE WAY. In the larger cities of Central America one who has not been used to the best cannot grumble, at the hotel accommodations. Of course, the beds are generally ^without springs and very hard, and the food is not altogether appetizing, though the prices are, as a. rule, as high as those of a first class hotel in the United States. On a long trip across the country such as we took more than once, it is often necessary to stop in small towns and villages, and even in a hut by the roadside. More than once the writer has begged the occupant of some lonely hut on the mountain side to open his door to us. In passing through from Port Cortez on the At- lantic Coast to Amapala on the Pacific we had many such experiences. One evening just as dusk was gathering, we rode up to the last hut we were to pass for another fifteen or twenty miles. The path lay through wild mountain gorges and over high peaks. We called at this little hut and were answered by a bare-footed, ragged fellow who bore the independent air of a king. He finally decided to let us remain, but after dismounting told us he could not feed us or our mules. We argued with him until he agreed to feed the animals and said 100 ON MULEBAOK lie would give us some "tortellas" — the cake made of ground corn and water. We begged and offered more money and he finally agreed to give us some "frijoles." After our supper, which we enjoyed very much, we had a good talk and then came the question oi quarters for the night. The hut had two small rooms with dirt floors and a porch. In one room the cooking was done; that room was perhaps 7x10 feet- The other room was about 10x10 feet. An old man was already in there aeleep on a puncheon board. There were two beds, such as they were. One of them had a dry, but untanned cow hide over it. When we asked for our beds we were told we could have none. We insisted and even offered to pay more, but were told in a very blunt manner we could not have a bed. The writer was very sick and had been compelled to dismount several times during the day and lie down on the roadside to rest. We felt we must get some rest. My companion hired a hammock from the Indian boy who w^as going along to take the mules back. I went in the room and crawled up on the bed with the cowhide and stretched my weary bones on old Jersey's last covering. Our host came in soon and to'ld me to get up, but I replied that I did not understand Spanish. He continued to jabber, but I held to the cowhide. Finally Mr. Edwards told him he had better let me alone and he would pay THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 101 him extra for my bed. When the "Inn Keeper" found he could not get his bed but could get some money he surrendered. My old friend on the pun- cheon board was snoring, and though he snored iu Spanish it seemed quite as annoying as in English. A deserter from the Honduras army, who had traveled with us during the day on his way, to his home, 'finally carried in another board and stretched out on it. We spent the night (?melling old Jersey's hide, turning over and over to rest the sore spots, and flashing our little electric flashlight to let them know we were not sleeping very soundly, for we had found by experience that we never knew when we were in the company of robbers. We would remind our reader that this was not our only hotel of the kind, but only one example of many in which we had to stay. 102 ON MULEBACiK CHAPTEE XXVI. OUR BEDS. It is unbecoming for one to be always heard tell- ing their troubles. But we believe there are thoee who would like to know "the other side" of mission- ary life. While leading our horses down the side of a mountain one day we remarked to Bro. Eeid, "We are sorry for the people who are pitying us,'" so do not understand that we are asking for sym- pathy. Of course, even missionaries must sleep a little now and then. But what are the beds? Much of the time the writer had as a mattress his little black alpaca coat, and as springs his trousers ; for a pillow his leather roll in which he carried a change of underclothing, etc. We had a light cotton blanket along to cover with. We learned so well to enjoy a good firm bed with no springs or padding that when we stopped one night in the home of a missionary who gave us a spring cot with two clean sheets, we found it dif- ficult to sleep on the soft bed of springs. The reader must remember we visit many towns where there 'are no hotels and no "believers," so W2 are glad to get one room in an o'ld house with no one living in it. In the states we have helped sing that song about not being able to sleep unless we had a THEOUGH CENTEAL AMEEICA. 103 good bed; but we have learned that most people on earth do not have a good bed, if indeed any at all, and we are beginning to believe that if the "soft- ness" with which we care for ourselves at home was sacrificed for some necessities to be given to our brothers in these lands we would be better able tj reach them — and perhaps sleep better ourselves. We passed down the street one night and counted sixty-five men, women and children lying on the brick side walk all in a row, with no bedding. They were getting a little rest that they might continue their hard, toilsome journey to worship a famous idol. The writer is beginning to believe that we do not need near as many things as we think we do. The reader must understand we were never lonesome at night, for our beds, hard as they were, never failed to furnish plenty of company, and the little fellows were persistent in their efforts all night long; but we have learned that even in this He can answer prayer. We had taken with us folding cots, a hammock and blankets to be used in this campaign, but on these long hard trips on muleback over the moun- tains we simply could not carry such articles of luxury, and had to be content with whatever ac- commodations we were able to 'find along the way. 104 ON MULEBACK CHAPTEE XXVII. OUR MULES. We would not have our reader understand th'-it we did all of our traveling on mulehack for some of it was on horseback. On three occasions we took short trips on little railroads. This did not in- clude the first class railroad on the Isthmus of Pan- ama. Of course, when traveling down the coast, both on the Atlantic and Pacific sides we used the steamt?hips, and up some rivers we used little launch- es and river steamers. Between 150 and 200 miles we covered on foot. There is no way of computing distance as we do in the United States, for they calculate by the league, and in some places a league is one distance and in other places it is entirely another. They told us in Guatemala a league was three miles, and in Honduras it was four miles. We are certain we are on the safe side in saying we traveled in the saddle between 1,200 and 1,500 miles, and most of this was on mountain trails, where at times there was no path whatever. We remember one occasion when we had a very large river to ford. There was no sign of a path leading into or out of it, so our only hope was to get in the best way possible and lead our animals u]) a steep bank on the opposite side and continue N^ THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 105 our search for some signs of where others had pre- ceded us. The long eared mix-up of God's species that car- ried us over these steep and stony places were five in numl^er. In keeping with the invariable record of all their ancestors, each one had their bad "mule tricks"; but on the whole they were good, faithful mules. Our mule missionary number one was "Bill." Bill was a faithful representative of the "Balaam family." He has been used for a long time by a missionary friend and was pretty well up on the trials, dutiee, burdens and hards'hips of the mission- ary. Bill was strong, a good traveler and per- fectly safe "on the whole." But the writer has found that in dealing with long-eared stock it -^ good to even sleep with one eye open and keep it fixed on the mule. We rode Bill up steep bluffs on mountain sides where a jack-rabbit would tire in climbing, but whether going up or down Bill showed more judg- ment and knowledge of mountain travel than his rider. Only on one occasion did Bill do anything for which we would be justified in criticisinof him, and he was likely not to blame even in that case. We were riding along on one of the rnuddiest roads we ever saw and were just passing a- little 6x6 foot shed with a large cross in it, placed there by the Indians and "blessed" by the priest, so it could help them when they prayed to it, while passing along 106 ON muleback: the road. Just as Bill got opposite the cross he proceeded to get down on his knees, and as he was in a gallop when he did it the crupper that held our saddle back broke loose, and we had trouble of our own about that time. Our next journey on Bill's back was from Coban to Cristobal. On this journey he gave us a safe and easy trip. While in that place our efforts were blessed. Large crowds turned out to hear the gos- pel and some of them begged us to remain. Mule number two was a government mule which we secured in Baja Vera Paz to carry us to the railroad. Wc hired three of them to supply Bro. Edwards, Bro. Ecid and the writer. We must con- fess the writer had his eye on a certain saddle, but the mules had to be divided, and just how to do it was the question. The brethren suggested that we write the color of each mule on a separate slip of paper and then draw for them. After a good laugh the names w'ere prepared and we allowed the others to draw and took what was left. The result was we got the saddle in anticipation and of course the mule that went with it. He was a great big, fat, long-eared, stout, lazy bay mule. Every time I spurred him (for I must confess with shame that I used a spur), ho would move up a little bit faster, })ut groan like he was dying. For two days and much of one night I listened to his lonesome groans except when I would get off and walk to rest my ears.. o THROUGH CENTEAL AMEEICA. 107 Mule missionary number three was "Breezy." She was really a little beauty, one of the best saddle mules I was ever on. I have ridden Breezy fifty miles through the mountains in one day and when we reached our destination she seemed as fresh as when we started in the morning. Breezy belongs to the missionaries of the Friends Church at Chiquimula, Guatemala. Mule number four we secured at Santa Cruz, Honduras. For two long hot days we had been tramping under the hot sun through the interior of Honduras, unable to get anything to ride. At Santa Cruz the writer broke completely down and we were compelled to have something to ride. We secured one poor little bony, raw-backed horse for our in- terpreter and a little mule that looked about as much like a big Jack-rabbit as a mule, for myself. His back was also sore, for these poor animals have to carry the freight, rum, coffee, etc., from the in- terior to the ports and back, distances anywhere from fifty to three hundred miles. By feeding heavy, resting often, and making short rides, this mule served us pretty well until the owner's son, who had come along to return the mules, allowed his back to get fearfully sore. He would saddle him each time without telling us Jutif w'hat condition he was in, and let me ride until I took the saddle off one evening to find his back in .i horrible condition. The only possible thing left to be done was for lus ON mulebaoe: me to find mule number five. This change was made at Floras, Honduras. The first place we found that number four's back was out of condition was where we found number five all ready for us, and it was less than twenty- four hours until we found why. Tic, whose we were and whom we serve, permitted this trouble to come upon us. We fell into the hands of a robber the next afternoon and had we not been on fresh animals there is no question but our money would have been taken, and we would have received bodily harm. The average home on mission fields is not like our American home. In Central America with most natives the wife is little more than a slave or ser- vant in the home. It is a common thing to meet a man in the road on his horse or mule while his wife (or the woman he lives with) walks by his side, or behind him with a child on her back, and possibly a bundle on her head. This, of "course, is not always the case, but it is common. In the home, we arc told, the average woman does not sit at the table (if they have a table) with her Senor — ^lord — but while he eats she serves, or sits on the floor and eats with the children. One of the hard things for the missionary to ac- complish in the home, after its members are saved, is to get the home regulated with the wife and mother having her place at the table. One mission- ary told the writer that as soon as a native family were saved, she began to drill them to act like a THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 109 "Christian family." She tells them the wife is as good as the husband, and that the wife should sit at one end of the table while the husband sits dt the other, with the children at the side. With thir^ feeling of the husband for his wife, which is prac- ticed by all and has been for centuries, it is indeed hard .for the lord of the home to confess he has wronged his wife. How we were startled, or rather how we ac- knowledged the power of the gospel, when at one service in Chiquimula camp meeting four husbands, one right after the other, stood up with tlieir wives by their sides; facing the congregation, and key- ing a hand on the wife's shoulder publicly con- fessed they had not lived with them as they should. They asked the audience to forgive them, and then while weeping begged the wife to forgive. Only the missionary to Latin America could appreciate what this meant. One of the men who thus confessed, we saw look all over the congregation to find hie wife. He then brought her to the altar where they prayed to- gether before making his public statement. This same man was a saloon keeper when we reached Central America in November. Truly the gospel of .Tesus Christ is the power of God unto Salvation. 110 ON ]\riTLEBACK CHAPTER XXVIIT. WHAT WE ATE. The writer suffered nearly all his life with a had stomach until he began missionary work. Whether, sea-sickness has helped, or prayer to God for an ap- petite to eat food we could not possibly relish, or whether it is the result of being in the center of His will, we do not know. But one thing we do know, we can enjoy today what we could not eat at all a few years ago. Ofttimes we would sit down on the ground in the back yard or on the dirt floor of a porch with our food in gourds — sometimes one gourd for the crowd to drink from. The food, when out on these trips, consisted principally of '^tortellas and frijoles."' The tortella is a corn-cake; the corn is soaked in ashes and water until it is swollen and the outer skin comes off, it is then washed and put on a stone and crushed into a doughy meal with another stone, a little water thrown on as it is thoroughly rubbed and then made into little cakes and baked. It is nothing but the corn and water, no salt, soda or milk. The frijoles (free-holies) are black beans; these with the corn -cakes, as a rule, comprised the meal set before us. Sometimes we had to kick the hogs oat of the way and knock the dogs aside. Then there was THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. Ill little certainty and much doubt about what kind of meat we ate, when we had meat at all. On one oc- casion we are certain it was not pork, beef or chick- en. The three of us who ate it were pretty well con- vinced that it had barked before we began trying to make it do missionary work. Do not blame us for we did not dare refuse to eat what they put in our gourds. No, we did not travel on Pullman cars, or eat in dining cars, (although this is not a sin, and wo would not object to doing so) but we were preach- ing the gospel to those who had no fork, table or napkins. Many of them never saw a train, but they have souls that must live while God lives. 113 ON MULEBAOE CHAPTER XXIX. BUILDING HOUSES. The average American would be surprised to find how houses are built in these tropical countries. If they get sawed lumber it is as a rule, first hewed out to a square log and then rolled up on a big frame six to eight feet from the ground. A saw much like our cross-cut saw is taken and with one man on top the log, and one beneath it, they toil on in the hot sun, sawing out lumber for one of the better houses. But those in the interior thus built are few. After leaving the larger coast towns and the few railroads, about eight-tenths of all the houses are built by putting heavy posts in the ground. On top of these posts a piece of timber, which we will call the plate, is laid, and with bark or withes it is securely tied ; then on each side of these posts pieces of timber split out like a small rail are tied, each one opposite the other. These are some six or eight inches apart. To reinforce, other upright pieces are tied to these split pieces every few feet. In many, eases this completes the sides of the house. The rule is, however, that these split pieces of timber are first "chinked in" with stone just large enough to lodge on both sides, and after tlie stone has been filled in, a place near the side of the house and ofttimes in the house, is dug up and Two Native Workers in Central Amer- ica. One was converted while read- ing Luke's Gospel. THEOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 113 water thrown in; then with bare feet women, men and children get in and begin making mortar. After a good tramping that has thoroughly mixed the mud, the house is thoroughly daubed and plas- tered inside and out. The mud is pressed in with the stone and strips of timber until all is full, then the timber and stone are thoroughly covered over and the mud smoothed off on the inside and out. Many times a light dip of whitewash is used. There are no freezes and no frost, so the wall will stand like marble, and the smooth white appearance is really beautiful. The ground on the inside is smoothed off and beaten down so that in a few years it is very hard, and makes a nice floor. For the covering, rafters are put up, and across them to take the place of our laths or sheeting, oth- er split pieces of timber, very thin, are tied ; on these are laid the palm branches or cane tops, in order much like we put on boards or shingles, and in quantity sufficient to turn the rain. We have slept in houses where the stone and mud had not been filled in, but the latticed walls with holes six or eight inches wide were all open. In the mountains three to five thousand feet high, it is indeed very cool at night, for when the sun goes down, there is generally a heavy wind. After rid- ing all day under a scorching tropical sun we felt the change very much, with a heavy cool mountain wind blowing on us all night. 114 ON MULEBACK In the towns there are many "adobe" houses, made of the adobe brick. In fact, many of the government buildings and large Catholic Ohurcliee are built in this way. The mud for the brick is made much like that we have just described, except grass or some other similar substance is mixed 'with the mud. Then a box about 8x20 inches, and four inches deep, with no top or bottom, is set in a smooth place on the ground and filled with this mud. After the sun has been on it for a little while the box frame is pulled off and the brick allowed to remain in the sun for a few days, to bake. After they have been thoroughly sun-baked the walls are built of them. If the building is to be very high, especially have a second floor and tile roof to add weight to the lower walls, they are made from 24 to 36 inches thick. The reader would be surprised how plump they get these walls, how^ smooth the surface. Then when they are whitewashed, inside and out, it really makes a beautiful building. One good frost, a good freeze and thaw would fix it for the future, but for- tunately they are not cursed or blessed with cold weather. The better houses are ofttimes floored with a half baked brick about 8x8 inches, possibly two or three inches thick, but rarely ever floored with boards. We have stayed in hotels where they had a second and even a third floor, all of them this kind of brick. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 115 That the roofs may be in keeping with the walls, but more fire proof and permanent, they are made of tile. This is a half-burned clay in the shape of a six inch water tiling, cut in halves. The frame for the roof is prepared much as we have described for the trash roof, and the tiling is laid on this frame work. The building is generally one story high. As a rule the only thing above the head is the inside of the roof; but when they want to be more '"up-to- date," and have the house more complete, it may be ceiled over head. This is rarely ever done with lumber, though we have seen it. Usually mats, four by six feet, woven by the natives out of a heavy grass or palm leaves, are fastened across making a ceiling for the room. Again the ceiling is only a cheap cloth stretched below the rafters. These adobe houses are built in old Spanish style in square or rectangular shape around a large open court, the outside wall joining the street, and the rooms opening into this inner court. If there are not enough rooms to surround the court, the wall is continued around eight or ten feet high, to complete the square. This wall is generally whitewashed to preserve it against the rain, and as a rule the top is covered with tiling or old broken bottles set in ce- ment. The latter serves not only as a protection against rain, but makes it at the same time prac- tically insurmountable. Around the inside of this wall are the stables. no ON MULEBAOIv servant houses, wash houses, and other out build- ings. The entrance to these houses is generally a large double door allowing room to drive through. One rides in through what is really one room of the house, unfinished. When once inside with this door locked or barred, it is much like a castle. Each room has a window set in the wall, well protected with iron bars. The porch is on the inside, fronting the inner court, which of course is really the back of the house. In the private residences of the more wealthy classes, these inner courtis are converted into flow- er gardens. The privacy thus afi'orded by this style of build- ing is very desirable in these countries where peer- ing eyes and prying hands are so plentiful. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 117 CHAPTER XXX. DYING WITHOUT FRIEND, HOME OR GOD. We were just leaving our "hired house" for the "construction shed" to hold the night service when a native rushed up the narrow alley to our door and told our interpreter a dying man wanted us to come and "speak with him." We promised to go as soon as the service was over. Late at night we knocked at the door of several trash covered huts and finally found one with a candle burning, but could get no answer. We went to a window — a hole in one side of the hut — and looking in, found a man lying on a few rags. The hut was about half covered with barrel stavet=, while the remainder had a dirt floor. We found the man was not a native of Central America, but from Jamaica, and could speak Eng- lish. He had once known God, but after coming here to seek health lost God out of his heart, and there he lay on a few rags in this miserable hut, dy- ing. His only light was a candle. We found a little box on which to sit. Poor creature was too sick to speak much. While we talked to him two of his companion^; bursted in on us, raving and cursing, both so dnmk they could not stand alone. They wanted to pray for him them- selves. We finally made them sit down while we talked to the sick man, and then kneeling in the dirt 118 ON MULEBAOK and filth we told the prodigal's Father about him. It had only been two days since we were in this same hut to look at a poor fellow who had been killed; here was another at the point of death, and the two remaining men dog drank. The other night when the one was lying dead, they began work on a box to bury him in, but were too drunk to fin- ish it, and some of our party saw them early the next morning going to bury him in the rough box with no lid. They were too drunk to carry it far, and a police officer compelled some men standing by to help take it on to the burying ground. The sick man, the one who was killed, and those who were too drunk to finish his box, were all Eng- lish-speaking, and part of them were from the United States. All were here to work for a United States firm. Will we allow United States capital to go where we do not send the gospel? Will we allow men to go to places to hunt work and money where we, as His children, do not go to hunt for "diamonds in the rough?" American people go everywhere to hunt money. Will we go along and give them the gospel while we hunt for souls? THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 119 CHAPTER XXXI. THE AMERICANOS INFLUENCE IN CENTILIL AMERICA. Without any desire on our part to reflect on the character of American citizens who live in Central America, we are compelled to say, their influence is not good. We are, of course, to understand that Americans are down there for money and not to do missionary work. But that to which we refer is purely a moral question, and not in any way a religious or spiritual one. The feeling seems to prevail that they want money and will do anything to make it. This grap- pling, with ofttimes a dishonest spirit, has been practiced so long that '^America" or "American" seems to mean to the natives greed, rascality, and dishonesty. The largest percent of Americans there do not have the best code of morals to live by. It is not at all uncommon to find them living with the native women, and raising children in this way. One American man may have children he owns as his with several mothers. We eat in a train crowded with passengers and heard American men, one of them a man known by reputation all over Central America, talk to a native woman as few m^n would even talk to fallen women behind the closed doors of a brothel. 130 ON MULEBACK On another occasion my interpreter, in my pres- ence, was trying to sell a native a copy of God's Word. The train conductor, who was an Ameri- can, began with oaths to make fun, aiid declared with a sneer that the old book wasn't needed down there. Brother E. turned to the native man and told him and the others sitting by not to judge Americans by such fellows. The conductor asked to whom he referred, when Brother E. replied : "I refer to fellows who have been brought up and edu- cated as the result of what the Bible has done for us, and then come down here and go to the dogs." On the Canal Zone the same thing is true. Amer- icans who in America were prominent in church work have gone away from home restraints and given up to worldliness, and in many cases to out- ward wickedness. With a few hundred Americans wielding a bad influence it is hard for one American missionary to counteract all this for good. What is true of Americans is also true of other English-speaking people, especially the West In- dians from Jamaica, Barbados, and other British Is- lands. In many cases the very worst citizens have come and their lives there are even worse than at their homes. It is a sad comment on British and American Christianity that the very worst parts of Central America are the districts where English-speaking people are in the lead. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 121 This is not the opinion of a missionary alone, but the testimony of all who know the countries. True they do not represent the best morals of the coun- tries from which they come ! but it seems an imposi- tion on these Christless, Bibleless countries to allow the worst morals of our country to spew out there, and those of us who believe in the Bible and Christ on which our nations are founded, to stand back and do nothing to check the tide of evil. There is a great field in Central America for Christian work in the English language, and if the Church will send Christians like the business world sends the other element, we could stay the tide of evil with good. In speaking of the evil influence of English- speaking people we are reminded of an Englishman we met in Santa Cruz, Honduras. He had spent some months in the interior opening a large gold mine, and was evidently a wealthy man. He and his companions, accompanied by his daughter, spent the night in the place mentioned. Here he was a rep- resentative of one of the great Christian nations of the earth, but such profane language we scarcely ever heard. It seemed he would say things in order to take God's name in vain. These are some of the things that make missionary work hard in foreign fields. 122 ON MULEBACK CHAPTEE XXXII. PANAMA TODAY. Panama city is the capital of the new Republic of Panama. The reader is well aware of the fact that in truth the Eepublic of Panama is the Isth- mus of Panama. The two largest cities on this Ee- public are Colon on the Atlantic Coast, right at the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal, and Pana- ma City on the Pacific Coast, very near the Pacific entrance to the Panama Canal. The one city of Panama is only a few miles from the ruins of old Panama, the first city built on American soil. It lies in ruins now to be visited by the tourists. Panama, like the rest of Central America, and in fact all of Latin America, is Eoman in religion, but it is also like the rest of Central America in the fact that the glory of Eome has passed and the people are ready for light and anxious for help. In the days of Bishop William Taylor, the great untiring missionary who no doubt did more than any man of his day for the cause of missions, Pan- ama was a death trap. Bishop Taylor started work on the Isthmus, but on account of sickness and death, the missionaries sent were never able to ac- complieh much. The question of health is no lon- ger a hindrance to missionary work in this district. The United States, before breaking dirt for Pana- THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 123 ma Canal proceeded immediately to dig a grave for the awful scourges of death that had constantly swept the country for thousands of years, and today it can almost be spoken of as a health resort. But with all these more favorable circumstances the Church of Jesus Christ has not awakened to the fact that 'Panama still lies in darkness. In the entire city of Panama, to our personal knowledge, there is only one place where the gospel is preached to the Panamanian. True there are churches and missions, especially on the American side where the gospel is preached to the West In- dian in English, but in Spanish the Methodist Epis- copal Church have the only place of worship. It was our privilege to preach the gospel in this church for two weeks, during which time we saw a few score of these poor people bow at an altar of prayer, seeking God. We were told that in the city of Colon, on the Atlantic side, there is no work being conducted for Spanish people, and so far as we were able to learn the only work among the Spanish people being con- ducted anywhere in the Republic of Panama is by Brother E. L. Latham, which is not coimected with any organization. Other nations do not owe to the Panamanian wTiat America owes him. True we have gone down there with money, we brought work to their door, we have turned the attention ■ of the world toward them, but in doing this we sent them, in many in- 1^4 ON MULEBAOK stances, the worst representatives of morals we had. We have already spoken of the American's influence in this land. It is not good; to say it is bad is to speak mildly. The writer could scarcely believe that after America had practically controlled the entire Isthmui^ for eight years, there was only one mission being conducted for Spanish people. Sure- ly something should be done. THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. 125 CHAPTER XXXIII. PANAMA TO-MOBEOW, The Canal Zone is a strip of land ten miles wide, ex-tending from the city of Colon on the Atlantic ocean to the city of Panama on the Pacific ocean. This was purchased by the government of the United States from the Republic of Panama. The cities of Colon and Panama, being the largest in the Republic fell within the limits of the ten mile strip of territory, but since they were the largest cities of the Republic, arrangements were made be- tween the two governments whereby Colon and Panama are cut out of the Zone, but with the un- derstanding that any time the Panamanian police failed to properly patrol either of the cities, our officers are to step in and preserve order, and also that we are to look after the sanitation of the two cities. Through the middle of this Zone the American government is now completing the Panama Canal, said to be the greatest piece of engineering work ever accomplished by man. The Culebra Cut alone is nothing short of a miracle. As the writer s^ in Col. Goethal's private office and listened to him, as the head or real builder of the Canal, tell of their difficulties and how they coped with them, we felt that truly man had been created in the image of 12G ON MtJiLEBACK God. The reader can scarcely gather the slightest idea of the magnitude of this work. While cutting through the mountain at the high- est point of the continent divide, the weight became so heavy on either side of the canal that the pres- sure of the mountain caused the stone bed of the canal to bulge up in the center. Then they found it necessary to go higher up and literally cut off mountain peaks, and haul them away to lighten the load. The Canal not being built on sea level, it was nec- essary to put in locks to, lift the vessels up from one ocean and other locks to let them down into the other. A vessel going from the Atlantic through to the Pacific must be lifted 85 feet above the At- lantic and lowered 85 feet into the Pacific. To do this the greatest locks on earth had to be built. They are not only the largest, but the most modem ever built by man. The great steel gates from 70 to 85 feet high and about sixty feet wide will swing open and shut like the door of a bird cage, just by pressing a button. All the machinery is operated by electricity. Through the courtesy of Mr. Cole, the chief en- gineer of the Pacific division, we had the privilege of examining the locks and going through much of the Canal in his motor car, run on the tracks of the work trains, while he himself explained the work, especially the locks. All this means that to a very great extent the cen- THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. 127 ter of ttie earth is shifting toward the Canal Zone. It will only be a few years until the entire world can be reached from the Panama Canal. Ships from every nation will be pushing through this pub- lic highway. In the author's opinion five years from this time there will not be a spot on the earth not even New York or London where an influence so wide can be wielded as in this place. Ten or fifteen thousand soldiers are to be stationed there; a few thousand Americans. must be there to operate the Canal, business is already shifting in that direc- tion, and the influence exerted will be credited to the United States. If it is bad the world will say; "Tliat is what America does." For the sake of the world that will pass through Panama Canal, we ought to give the gospel of Jesus Christ to the Pana- manian and the American who labors there. Col. Gorgas, who shipped disease out and import- ed health into the Canal Zone, told the writer as we sat in his home, that there was no reason why the future Panama should not be a healthy country. The President of the Republic of Panama talked to us of plans already on foot to open up the entire Republic highways, railroads and electric cars, the latter already being built. 'Before commerce carries the worst from Protes- tant lands into these countries, will it not be possi- ble for the missionary to carry them the truth ? Go ye into the Republic of Panama and the Canal Zone and preach the gospel to every creature. 128 ON MULEBAOK CHAPTER XXXIV. INCIDENTS. THE FIRST CONVERT. About one year before our party reached Guate- mala, C. A., a Spanish business man received a tract entitled "Jetius is Coming." Through reading this tract 'he became interested in the gospel and the Bible plan of salvation. Up to this time, while he was an educated man holding a prominent position, he had never known anything whatever about the Word of God and the way of Life. With this interest awakened he invested five cents in a copy of God's Word furnished by the American Bible Society, and began reading. His interest was so intense that he opened his home for what he called religious services, inviting his friends and in- sisting on their coming to hear him read this book which he had been taught was a bad book, and to read it meant to be damned. When his interest in the Bible and his departure from the Roman faith was found out persecution began. He was persecu- ted in a general way very much, but the severest testings came through his own family. Employees of the United Fruit Company, many of them Amer- icans, cursed him because he refused to drink with them. During the first meeting we held in the Republic this man heard with delight the gospel message and stepped out boldly for his Christ. He had worship- THROUGH CENTRAL A^IERICA. 129 ed the cross and images all his life, but now he found the Christ of the cross. He owned a saloon, but proceeded at once to dispose of his businests without being spoken to about it at all. In less than a month he sold the building also, and left the place altogether. When we saw him after a few weeks take the vows of the church and receive Christian baptism we could not but proclaim "It pays." This incident gives the reader some idea of the work of a tract purchased, sent and handed out in the name of Him who said "Sow by all waters." It gives those who have never been on the field an idea of the power of the printed Word. On account of the action of the government in this country giving statutory religious liberty and driving out the Jesuit order of priests, it is easy to get the people to read the Word of God, and tracts written on the same. When we took this man by the hand after he had been baptized he told us the business he expected lo enter, but said, "I am going to spend my life in God's service." This tract was a good investment ; the Bible did good work; the worth of that meeting in which he accepted Christ can never be estimated ; for without a doubt he will be preaching the gospel in a few months. In fact, he has already been doing so. "'Cast thy bread upon the waters, for thou shalt find it after many days." "Blessed are ye that sow beside all waters." 130 ON MULEBACK MR. TAYLOR^ WHY DIDN't YOU COME HERE TWO YEAES AGO? The caiition of this article was the question of a prominent Central American young woman. She spoke in the peace of her new found joy soon after giving her heart to Christ. She is the daughter of a prominent merchant and can speak five languages. The Truth had reached her heart and the gave every evidence of being genuinely saved. While sitting at the table one evening after the night service she turned to the writer with this ques- tion: "^'Mr. Taylor, why didn't you come here two years ago?" On inquiring why she asked such a question she told us that for two years her bleeding, hungry heart, crushed by disappointment, had been crying for help and deliverance. 'Oh,'"' she said, "I have been wanting this very thing for more than two years and have believed all the time there was just such help for me." When we endeavored to get her to praise the Lord for saving her now her reply was, "That is all right, Mr. Taylor ; I do thank God for saving me now, but, oh how my poor heart has bled and ached during the last two years, and, oh my God ! think of what I would have been kept from if this had taken place then." She wrung her hands and with the most rending cries said again, "Oh, if I had only heard about Him two years ago." We cannot expect her words to impress the reader when they are seen in print as they impressed us THEOUGH CENTEAL AMEEICA 131 when we heard them,saw her face and wept with her. This is one of many incidents where we have found hungr}--hearted people in the foreign field, crying and "feeling after God if haply they may find Him." It will be good to give them the gospel two years from now, but oh, the sorrow, shame, disappoint- ment, heartaches and even hell itself we could save them from by making haste to give them the gospel now. ^lake no tarrying, go quickly, send quickly, for there are heavy-hearted people in the foreign field who are hunting for God, and should not be put off two years more. The young lady referred to has not only been saved herself but is now working to help others, and is planning to go to school in the United States to prepare herself for the work. American missionaries and American money are not so much needed to give the gospel to the heathen, as to search out the few who will themselves become workers. We need in the foreign field evangelists to hold meetings and find those whose hearts are hungry, who in turn will become workers and reach the greater masses. 'In coal mine disasters we have known men to work for days, one shift after another removing dirt day and night for a week or ten days, because they believed there were possibly some men under there who wanted to be rescued. We count it a manly spirit and it is commended. But the lack of it is called cowardly and selfish, and the man refusing to help is branded as a traitor to his fellows. In the 132 ON MULEBACK case we have given of the young lady, we have an il- lustration of thousands who are helplessly crying for deliverance, but because their cries do not reach our ears we neglect them. Please do not tarry lon- ger. You are no traitor to the human family, but a lover of your fellow creatures for whom Jesus Christ died, are you not? Why didn't you come two years ago? THE MAN FROM HONDURAS. His smile and cheerful face had attracted us to him before we learned who he was and where he was from. He is a poor, bare-footed man but his eager- ness for the gospel is really pathetic. This year he attended the camp meeting at Chiquimula alone. His tramp covered about 120 miles and most of it through the rain and deep mud. Last year ho brought his wife and old mother with him, and carried his two children strapped to his back. This brother is not at all an exception to the rule, for when once converted they think nothing of such a tramp if they can get new 'light on the gospel, or lead some one to accept Jesus Christ. It should be understood that many of these dear souls have no preaching at all in their own town or communityj but must take long Journeys to hear it. Each one on his return appoints himself pastor aiicf proceeds to build up a work at his own place. This is why journeys through new territory, holding one service in a place, pays so well. When they get the light, and some one accepts the gospel he turns THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 133 preacher at once, and the missionaiy is likely to re- turn in a few weeks and find services being con- ducted by one who heard and believed when he was there on his last visit. In these countries we see the truth of the Scrip- ture "My word shall not return unto me void." We know many cases where only one message was heard, and others where they only read one gospel, or the testament, and God rea<3hed their heart. THE ONLY BELIEVERS. While in a Central American town we were asked to visit a family who were "damned" because they had left off confessions and w^ere now believing in the Protestant religion. When we reached the place we found the father and mother had died and the home consisted of three daughters, possibly 23 to 45 years of age. On arriving at the hoU(?e we were heartily welcomed and they informed us that they were the only fami- ly of ^T)elievers" in town. The older one of the family, who seemed to be the head of the house, as- sured us that the house and sixteen acres of land right in the town, were all free to the missionaries, for they proposed to walk with God as He gave them light. The first thing that attracted our attention was that the only entrance to the house was to the front room, which was a bar-room. On the shelves right by the liquor w^as a Spanish Bible; pasted on the shelves and doors were tracts we had sent a native 134 0^^ MULEBACK worker, and on another shelf witli the rum were tracts they were giving out. After recovering somewhat from shock number one, they began bringing in the children, and we found that two of the women had one child each, while the other sister was the mother of three; but on looking for the husbands we could find none. A rather embarrassing home for Christianity in a new town ? Yes, but a home where it can be put to its best. True, they were selling rum, but why not ? The priest and others had always drank. What did they know of its real wrong ? On questioning them we found that in September 1912, Bro. Tito, a na- tive preacher, passed by and banded these women some tracts. They inquired if they were Protestant tracts and began talking with him about religion. He finally went back to their house and explained to them salvation hy faith. They began to manifest an eager desire to learn, and later on he visited the place with a little stereopticon, an "oil lamp," and some Bible views which he exhibited on their porch. They told the writer they had never yet heard a real sermon or attended a meeting, but wanted to attend the camp which we were to hold, perhaps 75 miles from their home. We asked if they were Protestants and they re- plied, "Yes, out and out, and the priest says we are damned because we do not go to confess, and we be- lieve with the Protestants." THROUGH CENTEAL AMERICA. 135 OPEN" AIR WORK. The Constitution of Guatemala prohibits meet- ings on the street, yet we must reach the peopie. There are no churches in this part of the Republic. An American gentleman in charge of a large pier which is being built, kindly gave ue the use of the "construction shed" for the night services. Desiring to reach the people in day time we took our drums and other instruments on our porch, which is right on the ailey, and it was only a few moments until we had the alley packed with an ea- ger throng. We shouted, sang and told them of Je- sus, and sold Testaments and Gospels. Of course, an officer soon arrived and took two of our party before the Chief, but while waiting at headquarters they sold some Testaments and wit- nessed for Jesus. Our plea was that while the peo- ple were indeed in the alley we were in our own hired house and should not be molested. The Lord gave us favor with the "powers that be," and tho Chief let us go on with the work. 136 ON MULEBACK CHAPTEE XXXV. SIMEON. He is an Indian from Guatemaila; yes, a "pure blooded," bare-footed, black-headed, straight-haired Indian. But I must not neg'lect to say a Christian Indian, and a well saved one. We were attracted to him by his humble spirit and backward disposition. Simeon is a man of few worde, but always pleasant and ready to "take hold." We met him in Coban, Guatemala. He impressed us as being a humble Christian, one who was worthy the confidence of the people. He is used of the Lord when he puts a strap of leather around his head, swings a hundred pounds of books on his back, goes on a trip through the mountains, selling God's word and exhorting the people. But Simeon is profitable in more than one way. He has learned to set type and nm the press, so that when tracts and papers are being printed for free distribution he is really at his best. His dwelling is a humble place. A large shed covered with trash stands in the yard near the print- ing office, and in the ^garret" of this shed he has fixed up a room out of old sacks and pieces of box. A little ladder carried him up to his "nest." He does his cooking in a little place about six feet square in the yard. This is also put up of boards, THEOUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 137 box lids, poles, etc. Talking with the writer he said, "I think Christians should have what they need, but I don't need shoes," so he goes barefooted. From his field of labor to the Chiquimula camp meeting it is about 175 miles, and only 30 miles can be covered by train. Simeon wanted to go to the meeting, so with a pack on his back he set out on foot. We took him with us on the train the 39 miles but the remainder of the way he tramped. Some 35 or 40 miles he had to wade mud ofttimes knee-deep but with no word of complaint. His hap- py Indian face and quiet spirit have often been an inspiration to the writer. Simeon's work of turning out tracts which are being mailed free ail over Central America to those who will distribute them can only be estimated on tliat day. 138 OX MULEBACK CHAPTER XXXYI. SERIACO AND ANTONIO. The journey was to be a long, hard one with many mountains to climb. We had good mules and had planned for nearly 50 miles each day. The only point we had not decided was how to take the stereopti- con. We would only spend one night in each place and would rarely ever get in before six p. m. To get good crowds we must have the "vistas." Hence, we must have a "moso" — Indian servant, who car- ries a load on his back by running a rope around it and fastening the rope to a strap of 'leather around his head. He must be a good one, and a strong one for this trip. 'Seriaco, a stoutly-built Indian twenty-three years old, attended the Chiquimula meeting and had a face that looked like a "^full moon"; he was always smiling. We decided he was the man, if God would give him to us . When we asked him to go he said he would gladly do so if his corn was gathered. This problem was soon solved, however, by his In- dian neighbors, who were also saved, coming to him and saying they would gather his corn. No man ever preached the gospel on a salary of $3,000.00 a year who did it with greater joy than Seriaco plod- ded on under the hot sun, climbing mountains with a heavy load. We have seen him lean over with his pack on his back, pull a big thorn out of his bare THEOUGH CEXTEAL AMERICA. 139 foot, and with the blood flowing he would praise God and press on. His bed was the stone or dirt floor of a back porch every night. He arose in the morn- ings between two and four o'clock. Antonio had gone about twenty miles on the trip with his wife and child to attend the first night ser- vice. While we were eating supper he heard us say we were going to Ocotopeca, Honduras, while on this journey. "Oh, glory- to God," he cried in Span- ish ; "I am going with you, for when I left there I told them I would come back and bring some evan- gelists with me." He hurried to hie wife and told her he was going, and she helped him shout over it, and urged him to go. True, he was starting for a tramp of a few hundred miles, but what of that? He was going to witness for Jesus. The next morning about three o'clock Antonio had taken the bimdles off our saddles so we could lighten the mules for a heavy day's journey over a mountain so high that the clouds hang around its peak al'l the while, and the misty rain is so thick one can only see a short distance. The rule was, Seriaco and Antonio were right along with us. We never had to wait for our baggage. We generally had music or shouting, for they were never too tired to shout and sing. At times we would get down under a tree on the mountain side and pray. Before we were ready to open a meeting at night thev would begin the sinking. When we closed thev would begin again, and they held the people, too. It was not uncommon for them to get ahead of us 140 ON MULEBACK in the journey, and a little later we would pass them in the road with a few natives gathered about, preaching the gospel to them. At one time we passed a few dozen pilgrims who had been off to worship a famous idol; there were our boys, stand- ing in the rain, preaching with great earnestness. As we rode out of sight we looked back, and with their hats off in the rain, they were still telling the story of Jesus. At the close of a service one night, the professor of the school in that town came with a crowd to a store where our Indians were, and boasted that he and his friends would prove there was no hell and no Bible. Others told us of the incident for Se- riaco and Antonio never referred to it. The professor and his crowd began with their, questions, and our Indians in their simple way began to answer, to testify and shout; the professor cou'ld only -stand the fire a little while until he and his crowd beat a retreat. When the journey was over and the Indians were to leave the writer before day the next morning, we asked what we should pay them, they both cried, "Nothing; we did it for our heavenly Father and do not want any pay." When we insisted on giv- ing them something for a present they put up their hands and thanked Ood for it, then bowed their heads and prayed. More than one million such Indians in Guate- mala alone are without the gospel, and worshipping they know not what. Is there no one that cares ? THEOUGH CEXTEAL AMERICA. 141 CHAPTEE XXXVII. ''don JUAX.''' We never learned the rest of his name, for every- body calls him '"'Don Juan," (pronounced Don Whan). We met him in the early morning, but it vrill be late in the evening of life before we can for- get him. And we are certain we will meet him early '"'in the morning over there." Having a long trip for the day before us, we de- cided to ride twelve miles before breakfast and stop at Tablon, a little village on the frontier of Sal- vador, for breakfast. Our Indian boys, Antonio and Seriaco, went on ahead to ask a place for us to stay, and made the arrangements for us at Don Juan's home. As we rode through the little vil- lage several people called to us and said they were coming up to Don Juan's so we could preach to them after breakfast. Upon our arrival we were met by a quaint little old Indian who had a mellowness about his face not common to that race. His greetings were hearty embraces and a "Gloria a' Dios." We rested our- selves under some trees and the people were soon coming by the dozen. Breakfast was ready and we enjoyed our proverbial "tortellas and frijoles" — un- leavened corn cakes and black beans. The crowd was near at hand all the while, for 142 ON MULEBACK where we went these Indians followed. With Bible in hand we proceeded to open the service, when old Don Juan said, "Come over to the chapel." We followed him to the other side of his little hut and ilo, he led us and the crowd into a 12 ft. shed room the full length of his humble home. Of course, the seats were rather crude, and the floor was dirt, but surely God met His people in that place. This old man had prepared for himself a chapel, a temple of his own. "How often do you have services here, Don Juan ?" In a tone and manner so modest you had to look twice to see the man who spoke, he replied, "On Sundays, Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays." "And when was there a missionary here," we asked. "jSTot since last June," was the repl}^ — nine months ago. Our host said that things were cold and much help was needed, but he was the only one who thought so, for al the neighbors had something to say about the work this man of God was doing. Being interested in the man and the work of the Lord in Tablon we decided to find what missionary had been honored of the Lord in establishing the work, so we asked him under whose preaching he first heard the gospel. To our utter surprise he told us that he was down in Metapan, a small Salvador city, and met a man selling Bibles. The man told Don Juan the books he was selling were the Word of God, so he bought a Testament and read it THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 143 through, learning about Salvation by Faith. About that time a woman came through his town with some tracts, and her tracts gave him more light on the gospel, so that he accepted Jesus and began work. The first man he won was his brother, and from that time the fire began to spread until at the time of our visit they had thirty-five believert; and many others ready to accept, he toid us. After our mules were saddled and we were about ready to mount, these men and women gathered around us and there on their knees as they looked up in our faces, they plead with us to remain for at least one more service. We found a tus^orino- at our heart. Finally they informed us that the Bible spoke of Jesus passing along, going on to another place, but the people begged him to remain, and he did it. "You may not see it, but that scripture is very clear to us and shows us you ought to remain,'- they said. After we slipped behind one of the huts for a season of prayer we fe^lt clear to press on althougli they insisted they would pay for a telegram to the next place ahead, and one of the brethren spoke up and said he would carry the telegram to the nearest office, which was twelve miles. The memory of those shining Indian faces turned up to our own, begging for "only one more service," can never be effaced. They watched us off, waved at us as we rode awav, and turned with lon^in^ hearts back to their homes. We feel sure that our / 144 0^ MULEBACK. ' reader will join us in prayer that the Lord will send some one to Don Juan to serve as pastor and help encourage the little congregations around in other vil'lages. We found they were at work on a little church, and being so interested in their work w^e asked if they would be able to finish it with their own hande, or would they like to have some help. We had told Bro. Edwards we would be glad to put a few dol- lars into the work. Don Juan's reply was that they only needed the help of God, that they could do all the work alone ; they needed the Bread of Life. THROUGH CENTRAL AMERICA. 145 CHAPTER XXXVIII. GOOD-BYE. After two Indians had spent several days with the writer, during which time we were together day and night, the time came to say good-bye. Their loads were heavy; the sun was hot; and at otlier times the roads were made muddy and slip- pery by the fast falling rain. But during the time they were with us we never saw an unholy act, heard no ■complaint, nothing that led us to believe they •'felt hurt," were "impatient," or thought they were being "slighted or imposed upon." We finished our journey and reached the railroad where they were to turn back. They spent the re- maining hours of the afternoon, and were to leave long before daylight the next morning. About nine o'clock that evening while I was writing, one of the boys knocked on my door and entered. As he be- gan talking I saw his eyes were red, I understood the words "tomorrow," and "road," so I knew they wanted to say good-bye. I called the other one in and, though I could not talk with them in their tongue, I knew how to say, "let us pray." So I got them near me and said in their language, "let us pray." We kneeled together for the last time. Each of the Indians prayed and then I prayed and cried. 14G OX MULEBACK We arose to say good-bye, and my big Indian fell on my neck, hugged me until it hurt, and began weeping like a child. He would step back and then break down again. Finailly the other took his turn and then both at once. They wept and I cried. They would lay their hands on their hearts and weep most pitifully. I rummaged through my clothes and found two nice handkerchiefs with my initials on them and gave one to each of them, hugged them good, wept like I was telling my own boy good-bye, and commit- ted them to His keeping. They are so affectionate as a people. But they have never been loved, except by Jesus, and He has not yet been able to get any one who would go and tell them He loves them. "•'Good-bye, my Indians; by the help of God, I will send you some one who will bring with them a message of love." FOUR BOOKS FORTHE UNSAVED The publisher is anxious to give them a wide cir- culation, and offers the set of four for 25c. JAMES M. TAYLOR, Missionary Evangelist. "THE JUDGMENT.'' Paper binding, 10 cents. "THE WRATH OF GOD." Paper binding, 10 cents. 'LEAPING WILD OATS." Paper binding, 10 cents. "YOUR Sm WILL FIND YOU OUT." Paper binding, 10 cents. These ser:nonp, preached by the author in cam]) meetings and revivals throughout the United States and Canada, and in missionary evangelistic cam- paigns in other countries, have touched thousands. They are now put in book form to answer the call of Christian workers for "cheap booklets to put in the hands of the unsaved." Address JAMES M. TAYLOR, Missionary Evangelist, 807 Deery St. Knoxville, Tenn. The Missionary Reporter. An Interdenominational Month- ly published in the interest of missions in ALL LANDS, The pages of The Reporter are limited to MISSIONS, Many papers give some space to MISSIONS: THE REPORTER gives all its space to MISSIONS. The Reporter Record. '•NOT A DRY LINE ON ANY PAGE" is the record THE REPORTER has already established. THE REPORTER is now one year old, and we have reached the 25,000 mark. \ James M.Taylor.Missionary Evangelist EDITORS ^ ^^^ j^^^^ ^ Taylor. Subscription price only ten cents per year;three years for twenty -five cents. Send personal check, stamps. New York draft. Money order, or cash by registered letter. Published by JAMES M. TAYLOR, 807 Deery Street, Knoxville, Tenn. UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. Form L9-Series 4939 iiMrii LiDHHnr r«tlLII Y AA 000 572 087 5