r;n3;: Mv^-v'-M *--'■ ^.- •*----•■ --^'^ '---^ *'***' ■^'■-:: jtnT*'*^ "'''^^^Tji? ui'^'zt'^'" rW^'if'-w- ."jr, ■*t^■>ft^'-*-*'■•rv*^''■*^-■^•"'.»■»^^-^J-.r*-«»^'-y•'»' .*-.'^»* '*»N*"fi*'> v^^^M-**' «.■"*•-. *v/*^ W«^*TfOi*v-.^— » -.•■-/-• . ^ ffiSrSKu'rxt; t^;;;:;;^^;: UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA AT LOS ANGELES iG e iG 1 TIIK l,.\M> OF TIM, \I1I>\I(;HT SIN 8UMMi:U AM) WINTKK JOUHNKYS SWEDEN. NOHWAY. LArLAM». \\1> NOHTHKIIN FINLAND. Wmi DiBC»IPTKiN> »'» THE IXXU UFE OP THE rtOI'Lt, THUK MA>MJtS AXD COSTOMflk THE PfUMITlVE AKTIVCITIDI. m-. Hv PAI I. i: I»l- riiAiLLi', I - .1 * MMWumAitatm a nrAitMOAt ArmtcA," ' * >oK%»wn to aciu»oi> laxu," rra IX TXO Vnu*MES.-Voi. II. WITH MAP AND 235 ILLUSTRATIONS yOVUTII KDITIUS LONDON: JOHN MriniAY. ALIJEMAIM.K STREET. 1888. 1\» rtplkt tif Tf*mtlaliiwra and sons. uMirrD crr>MF<>iiD truf.frt axd riiAmso cii« Trivdlinj;. — lev in ibo FjurU.^-<.'bi i»u*i Author Lh ri<»t Korvottfii. — 1 ■• Lii4 of ihv lir»l I>.i ■ ... I UIAITKIC III. I>«-jvirUjro from rhri*tl \r<' \ F-v:- n^ jh,- Mj<>n. — A Small Slcijjh. — rntrrfnmilias nvily to Start. — ^' .n. — Kew.ycar'a Day. — The tliurch. — The Kc Maidti of Tofte. — Aneient FIou(«e«. — The Author'ii (Jinrtcr* — I! .... j.i.^jjj Karmrn). — A Jolly EvminR. — Hondo Pride. — Nuiii. r..;i- -els. — A Surpri.«eparty. — Tiie Tliirtoonth Duy of Vulo. — I 1 arui. — .V I)ani»el-|».irty. — (ludljranii.-^djil'H Heautie.«. — A Jcalou..< ' at Skjfn.1. — Uunnoi;. — Anc, who fish with a sin- gle hook or line. The fishing -grounds in Lofoden are di- vided into twenty-one districts ; at each of these all the boats have to start together, and all must return the same day, and about the same time, if possible. Every fishing district has its own letter, and each boat has a number; the name of every fisherman being registered, with his place of residence, birth, etc., so that in cases of disaster the crew of any missing craft can be identified. Formerly the men were obliged to remain during the whole season in the fishing district they had chos- en ; but now they can go from one district to another, tliough they must report at once before beginning to fish. I was surprised at the very comfortable clothing of the fish- ermen ; none suffered from cold on account of the thinness of 122 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. their garments, nor were any ragged ; all wore thick stock- ings, and had water-proof clothing, tarpaulins, and comfortable sea-boots. It spoke well for the humble households of these fishermen, and for the thrift and industry of their families, that almost everything they had was home-made; they all had homes, however humble, either on the fjords by the coast, or on some little island. Every one retired early. The steadi- ness and good behavior of those hardy sons of the sea I have never seen equalled in any other country. During my sojourn in IIenningsva3r there was never any fighting or quarrelling, and the lensmand was the only man there to preserve law and order. At all these fishing-stations everything is as safe as on shore ; the doors are left open, chests are never locked, and no one would ever think of stealing the fish that were drying. Two kinds of boats are used ; one is open, from thirty to thirty-five feet long, and six to six and one-half feet beam ; the Finmarken boats are longer — they have a house on the poop — being from thirty-five to forty feet and more in length, and from seven to seven and one-half feet beam ; a pole sev- eral feet long is attached to the rudder, and held by the last rower, who steers as well as pulls, thus saving the labor of one man. Their cabins are about eight or nine feet long, afford- ing protection at sea and sleeping accommodations, as the men do not return to land every day. The engraving from one of my photographs (given opposite this page) shows the struct- ure of the boats. There are also little craft used for trans- porting the fish from the shore to the vessels ; these are not more than nine feet long by four feet wide. The morning after my arrival I was up at four o'clock to witness the start of the fishing fieet. I stood by the flag-staff on the highest point of the island. No one is allowed to leave before the flag is hoisted. The fishermen came one by one, and all were seated in their boats for some time before the signal was given. At five precisely the flag was hauled up by the lensmand, and the air was filled with a heavy booming sound from several thousand oars dipping into the water at the same time, and working with astonishing regularity, which THE EETVRN OF THE FISHING-BOATS. 123 continued for quite awhile. As they moved away tlie boats began to scatter, and by the time they reached the fishing banks — about seven or eight miles from Ilenningsvser, and covered with from sixty to one hundred fathoms of water— they were widely apart. From the height I could see the light-house on the island of Hellandso, which lies opposite, and forms the canal-like port. Lonely indeed now seemed the low islands ; the landscape, so beautiful when seen from a distance, was melancholy and dreary when near at hand. At ten o'clock, one by one, the boats came back, and by noon the whole fieet was in, with an immense number of fish. Life had returned to Henningsvier. Boats moved to and fro, going from vessel to vessel, the fishermen trying to make the best bargains they could, and everybody was busy.. On the decks were piled the fish just caught ; these were clean- ed on board, washed, salted, and laid in the hold one on top of another. These vessels would, after the fishing season, go home to some solitary farm by the fjord, and their cargo would be dried on the rocks. The price of the fish varied somewhat every day, according to the catch ; that day it was seven ]^or- wegian dollars" per hundred, without livers, eggs, and heads; it is sometimes less. Great numbei"S of ducks and gulls were feeding upon the mass of offal thrown upon the water. On that day the catch was said to ^^ liave reached nearly three £ hundred and fifty thou- sand codfish : I have been , -3 told that sometimes it <- " goes as high as half a million a day. Many boats landed their loads along the shore, where men were busy preparing the fish. Those engaged in this work were dressed in large pantaloons. 'ST'St EIDEE-DL'OK. * The XorweKian dollar is worth 81 12. 124 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. aprons, and cuffs of leather. One man cut off tlie heads ; another took out the intestines, and cast them on one side ; others put the heads, the livers, and the eggs by themselves ; the latter were carefully put in barrels and salted — a barrel containing the ova of 300 iish ; these were sold for nine dol- lars : they are sent to France or Italy, where they are used for catching sardines. The livers were put in barrels by them- selves, sold to the merchants, and kept till rotten, when cod- liver oil is made from them. Two barrels of fat livers are said to yield a barrel of brown oil. The tongues were salted, and kept by the fishermen for their own use. The heads were scattered on the rocks to dry, to be used to feed the cattle at home, or to be sold with the bones for fish manure, a man- ufactory of which is close at hand, on another island. A few days ago I was roaming over mountains covered with snow, and on frozen lakes and rivers; my coursers were rein- deer, and my dress that of a Laplander. Kow I was clad like a ISTorwegian fisherman. I had deliberately made up my mind from the time I landed in Scandinavia to see everything fur mj-self, and not to trust to hearsay for descriptions, so I concluded to go on fishing excursions. The lensniand kindly chose the craft in which I should go. When I came out a profound silence reigned over the fishermen's houses, and nothing was heard but the shrill cry of the gulls; the boats were by the shore, ready to start. The quietness of the scene soon changed ; the men came, and within a short time all was activity. I was fortunate in my arrival here, for it was the first fine weather of the winter. Before this there was a continuous series of gales and snow-storms, and the year had been one of the most tempestuous known for a long time. My boat had upon it the letter II — which signified that it came from TIenningsvser — bore the number 87, and was manned by six persons. It be- longed to Evert Arntsen Kildal, from Melo, a place on the Nordland coast. He was a leading man in the church, and had the reputation of being a good Christian. The crew was composed of two strong elderly men, two younger, of about twenty, and one boy fourteen years of age, who was serving i FiAISIXO THE FISEIXG-XETS. 125 his apprenticeship. These fisheries of JS'orway are splendid schools for the making of sailors, and it is no wonder that they are considered among the best by the maritime nations of the "world, not only for seamanship but for their honesty, good temper, and respect for discipline. All eyes were watching the Hag-staff. Suddenly the flag was hoisted, and tliousands of oars struck the water. "We pulled to get out of the channel, and, as the wind was favorable, the boats steadily approached their fishing-grounds. The crew were guided entirely by the positions of the surrounding mountains, and with great accu- racy came to their lines. Every fisherman has his distinct buoys, representing the different objects that he may need to recognize. We went to the first one — a pine roller about four feet long — to the centre of which was tied the thick line which held the net. As the line was pulled in, two men stood by, each drawing one side of the net into the boat, which is the hardest work ; two others behind placed the nets in good order; near the pullers there was a man who hooked the fish and threw them into the boat. There were some twenty nets tied together in fours, each net twenty fathoms long, and two to three in depth. Eight min- utes were passed in raising one set to the surface, and it re- quired fifty minutes to hoist the whole number. The length of time in hauling depends, of course, on the number of fish caught, and on the weather. Though some cod were taken, they were not plentiful, partial migration to some other ground having taken place. We caught only a few more than three hundred, the catch sometimes being more than double this, and heavily loading the boats. A consultation was now held as to where to cast anew, and seeing others going towards a northern point our crew con- cluded to go that way also, and leave their nets there for the night. In what direction fish will migrate is only a matter for conjecture, and success during the season depends entirely upon striking the right places. The wind was ahead, and our destination was about ten miles distant; it was a hard pull, consuming five hours in reaching the ground. The boats were evidently too heavy for the crew to row, and they would 12G THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. sometimes take advantage of or beat against the wind. Dur- ing this time the men inspected their nets, and four, with their drawing-lines, were replaced bj new ones that had been brought. Then we began to sound : the first trial showed no bottom at one hundred and twenty fathoms, the length of the sounding-line; the second, a little farther on, gave one hun- dred fathoms. All along the nets at intervals there were glass balls, about four and a half inches in diameter, each securely enclosed, and attached by a cord about three feet long ; these were to keep the nets afloat, while stones at the bottom kept the lower part downward. We finished by casting the first buoy, one man throwing the net while another threw the float from the stern of the boat. When they reached the last of the nets it was let down, with a heavy stone attached, four buoys being arranged on the upper surface, there to remain till the next day. At three o'clock we reached IIenningsva3r, none of us having touched a mouthful of food since our start. The fortunate ones that day were those who had lines. The average of each of such boats was about three hundred cod- fish. In the nets two salmon had been caught — a not uncom- mon circumstance. I was invited to spend the remainder of the day witli my new friends, three other boat's-crews being in the same house. I accepted on the condition that I should partake of their reg- ular fare. The dinner was composed of a sort of porridge or pudding made of ship-bread, liver, and fish. I put on the best face I could, but cannot say I enjoyed the meal. Wood is very scarce and dear, as it is brought from the other islands or from the main-land ; they use as little as pos- sible, and mix pieces of fat with it to promote combustion. Some of the men treated me to a cup of coffee, which I could not refuse. We spoke about the prospect for the fishing sea- son now about to close ; they calculated that the fisliermen would average sixty or seventy dollars each ; in some very fort- imate boats the men would make ninety or a hundred dollars. The captain, or one who owns the boat, is entitled to a certain number of fish, and those who own the nets also have a share. We talked over fishing adventures, the terrible storms often GOING LINE-FISHING. 127 encountered, and tlic narrow escapes they frequently had. Two or three years before one hundred and twenty-three men were drowned in less than an hour. All spoke very kindly of my hostess, and exclaimed " God bless her !" I learned that in one part of her house she had a store-room, and many a poor fellow went in there by the back-door. She kept flour, coifee, sugar, bread, and many other things ; and often when the men could not obtain credit from her husband they came to her. She had friends among the fishermen, and knew those who were poor and had large families to support : many had left that house slyly with a parcel of sugar, coffee, or bread, and not unfrequently a little money for the wife. " She does everything so quietly," said they, "that nobody knows any- thing about it; but when we see some one leave her house by the back-door, we always know that she has been doing some good deed." One of the beautiful characteristics of the Xorwegian fish- erman or seaman who has never left his native land is his reverence for God ; he is seldom heard to utter an oath. Dur- ing the years I have been in the country I never heard any one of them swear, no matter how angry he may have been, or how great the provocation. They reprove the offender without cursing him. In this respect they are better than their brethren of Southern Sweden, and more docile withal. The next day I went hook-fishing, and consequently had to take another kind of boat, and go with another set of men. Each of these craft generally carries twenty -four lines. The captain with whom I went was Hans Mikel Nikolaisen, from Tennevold, in Ebestad, a place not far distant from Tromso. He was a married man, with three children, and his eyes glowed with happiness when he talked to me of his wife and little ones. His boat was much smaller than the other one, the fishing by hook being much lighter work, and the whole crew consisted of two Sea Laplanders and three strong men. The Lapps were easily recognized by their short reindeer cos- tumes, with hair inside, and Finland boots. The wind was good from the very start, and we rapidly passed the light-house on the island of Hellandso. Abont a thousand boats were 128 TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUX. scattered within a few square miles, near Ilenningsvaer, for there were boats from other stations; after four hours we came to the place where our lines were and lowered the sail. Several buoys were taken into the boat, and then began the hauling of the lines by the help of the little roller along-side. Tlicre were four lines attached to one another, each being one hundred fathoms long ; the hooks were four to six feet apart, generally one hundred and twenty on each line, and at inter- vals a buoy was attached to the line to prevent it from getting snarled, and sinking too deeply. The lines of all those who fished by hook contained on an average, per boat, about twenty- four hundred fathoms in all. An immense number of these lines are cast into the sea every day with the nets, occupying the waters for miles. We had not pulled in over two hundred fathoms of our own when we found they had drifted into a net, and that some of our hooks had caught it — an awkward yet common accident — but we were able to free the hooks without much trouble. We continued to haul in the fish, wdiich were very abundant. Once again a part of our line became entan- gled, this time with three or four belonging to other fisher- men, and great care was necessary to separate them. The men know well their own lines, as, for greater certainty, each one is marked from place to place with the letter of the district and the number of the boat. The work was hard and tedious, for the tides and currents had done considerable twisting for several different fishermen. After the lines had been sep- arated they were thrown back into the water with the fish attached to them. The end of our third one came to the sur- face, and we saw that it had been cut by a knife, and the rest lost with all its fish, probably about seventy-five. Sometimes, when too badly mixed up, lines have to be cut and hauled into the boat ; in that case the men bring them ashore, and give the fish found on them to the owner, who is always known by the marks on his tackle. We then went to the other buoys, and hauled in another line, capturing in all three hundred and seventy-three large codfish. After our fishing was over we went to several of the boats near us, and made inquiries about our lost line. In one or two THE FISHIXa SETTLEMENT OF STAMSUXD. 121) cases, as we came along-side of the boats, my men looked sus- piciously into them. Sometimes, when they find lines en- tangled in their nets, they draw everything on board, being obliged to do so to separate them, and return the fish. Some of the boats had parts of lines not belonging to them, which they intended to take ashore. When the fish are stolen the tackle is thrown away, but this very seldom happens. Evi- dently many of the crews mistrusted each other, and I was told that some fishermen would take fish that did not belong to them simply by way of retaliation, thinking that others who had found their lines had done the same. Of course it is very difficult to prove any theft of this kind ; but, when caught, the culprits are severely punished by the judges. We cast out again, our hooks being baited with young heri-ings cut in two. There was a general complaint this year of the scarcity and dearness of the bait. There are men whose only business is to catch bait and sell it to the fishermen; my host had a small steamer employed for this purpose during the fishing-season. When the fishing-ground is near the line fishermen return to the shore and go again, and so also do those with nets. Another sail, two hours long, from Ilenningsvser, brouglit us to Stamsund. The dark rocky hills which tower over the little fishing settlement give it a gloomy appearance, though there are several farms on the island. The harbor is made perfect by many small islands near the shore, among which boats wind their way. Here the fishing-boats were few, for most of the fish on the banks near the islands had migrated, and they seldom return the same season ; only a few small vessels were completing their cargoes before leaving. I noted a comfortable house, owned by the leading merchant of the place, used also as an inn. Several buildings were supported partly on piles near the water's edge, and dwellings built of logs were scattered here and there between the rocks at the foot of the hills, and near the boulder masses that have been torn from the side. Vessels and boats were at anchor in the narrow basin, or among the islands, and the place presented a far wilder aspect than Henningsv?er. There were birch-trees on the island, and they are said to be common in one of the VOL. 11. K 130 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. valleys. Near the settlement by the sea is a low dale with two or three farms. My object in coming to Stamsund was to visit Ilerr M , a celebrated manufacturer of cod-liver oil which enjoys such great and well-deserved reputation in the United States. The room where the oil is made was not very large, but everything was extremely clean. Several men were engaged in separat- ing the good livers from the bad ; all were fresh from fish caught that day. The fat and healthy livers were whitish, while the diseased ones were greenish, and the lean ones red. I was surprised to see the number of diseased and lean livers. The season for the best ones would soon be over, and it hap- pens that the cod arrive at Lofoden when their livers are in the finest condition. The men were very particular in select- ing the choicest kinds. After they had been assorted they were put into a large tank, washed thoroughly in warm water, and then placed over an open wire net to let the water drip away. I noticed that extreme care was taken in all stages of the preparation of the oil. There were five large, high, round- ed kettles or vessels, surrounded by steam at a pressure never exceeding five pounds. By this process the livers boil very slowly for eight hours, after which the oil is filtered twice through cotton, and put in large tin vessels tightly soldered. The product was clear and white, and appeared to me per- fectly pure ; but the process does not end here. The oil is shipped to Ciiristiania, where it undergoes chemical treatment which frees it from the microscopic globules of blood, and from stearine ; it is then filtered through paper, and is ready for the market. Some sort of brown oil is made from most of the residue, and what is left after this is manufactured into a fertilizer, said to be very rich. The process has nothing of the repulsiveness of the method by which brown oil is usually made, namely, by letting the livers rot, skimming the oil, and afterwards boiling it. I wished very much to visit the most southern of the islands, the inhabitants of which are said to be very primitive ; but steamers touch there but two or three times a year, and then only during the fishing- season, so I preferred returning to SrXDAY AT HEXXIXGSrJ^E. 131 ITenningsv£er ; for, though the weather had every appearance of remaining fair, the falling of the barometer indicated that a change was at hand. I busied myself in taking views of the Lofoden, and of the fishing-quarters. One evening I witnessed one of the grandest displays of the aurora borealis that I ever saw in the North ; the corona was superb, and its brilliant red crown seemed to hang over these islands. There is a church at Henningsvagr, and, during the short fishing-season, a resident clergyman. On Saturday no nets or lines are put out, the law not allowing sufficient time in which to return to and raise them on Sunday. Buying and selling cease ; the captains come ashore ; the fishermen shave them- selves and put on their best clothes; and all feel that a day of rest has come. Sunday, April 6th, the last service of the season took place on the island of HenningsvaBr. The church was crowded with over three thousand fishermen, every one with his Church-ser- vice book. None wore amulets or pictures, for they trusted first in God and then in themselves in the hour of danger. The clergyman gave a most impressive sermon. It was to be the last of the season, and the congregation would soon be scattered ; and when it returned in another year, he said, some then present might be missing. With tears flowing down his cheeks, showing the depth of his feeling (for he was a thoroughly good man, with no sham about him), he told them that after this life there was another; that soon death might come, and they must think of their souls, putting their trust in the Lord Jesus Christ. He finished with an earnest ex- hortation to love God, to hate sin, and follow after righteous- ness : it brought tears to many eyes, and made every one thoughtful as he went away. It was really beautiful to see so many men, bred among the rocks of the North amidst storms and privations, come to pay homage to the Creator. I doubt very much if such a sight could be seen in any other Christian country. There was not a fisherman on Henningsvser in his cabin on that day, unless detained by sickness. In the afternoon the room of the worthy pastor, who, by -the -way, was a very handsome man, K 2 132 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. was crowded with fishermen, who came to say good-bye, to thank him for his teachings, or to make some religious inqui- ries. I also made him a visit, and admired his urbanity to these hardy sons of tlie sea; he was, indeed, a gentleman. During our conversation he told me that he had sold that sea- son 15 large Bibles, at 4 marks ; 15 Testaments, at 20 skill- ings; and 150 books of Psalms, at G skillings.* Sunday was the day on which they generally bought them, and willingly, with their hard earnings. They are too proud to ask for one as a gift, but now and then, in a delicate way, the good cler- gyman would say to a man with a very large family, or who liad had an unsuccessful fishing season, " 1 want you to give this Bible, Testament, or hymn-book to your wife, as a little remembrance from me." The afternoon was passed in social enjoyment ; neighbors visited each other, and talked of home. The younger folks paid their attentions to the maids of Ilerr D , and to two others in the neighboring houses. Women were at a great premium, for these few were all — the fishermen not having brought wives or daughters ; so the girls had many admirers on Saturday evening and Sunday afternoon ; lads, wherever there was an opportunity, would pass before the houses to catch a glimpse of the fair ones; if so fortunate as to meet one, they would address their compliments to her and try to make love, for which there was little chance, as some person on the watch for a favorable time would be sure to interrupt, IS^ature, in this respect, is the same all the world over. The fisherman's life is arduous. At dawn of day ho goes out, and, when he has to row against a head-wind, often comes back tired and weary. On their return, after the first meal, all are very busy outside ; those who do not clean and prepare the fish cut bait for the lines, replace the lost tackle, and re- pair the nets. The barometer was not mistaken, for the threatened storm came on the 8th, with a very high wind, at times almost a hur- * The new coinage at that time was not in use — 5 marks, or 120 skillings, made one dollar. I MILD CLIMATE OF THE LOFODEX. 133 ricane. No boat was allowed to leave. Dark clouds gathered in the north-west, and violent squalls drove them overhead ; snow fell heavily, and after awhile the land was covered with a thick white mantle to the sea. I went to the highest point of Ilenningsvfer, where I could see the angry waves, as they struck against the rocky cliffs, breaking in fuaniing spray along the shore, and then dashing themselves into a thousand atoms, apparently harmless ; but every billow that struck against that shore was stronger than the rock, and left its mark behind. On the point of Hellandso the light-house stood unharmed, for the surf could not reach it ; and, when night came, its bright light shone like a star over the horizon. Everything in the port was still ; the sea there was sihooth ; the M'ind blew over the masts of the vessels, and no one would have dreamed, in looking on that quiet narrow channel between Ilenningsvser and Hellandso, that outside a tempest was sweeping over a heaving sea. Part of the channel, however, is not well pro- tected against a south wind. At Easter the gale was still un- abated, and on the following Sunday it raged with a fury that made one feel thankful to be on land. The climate in these islands is subject to great variations ; violent storms are succeeded by very fine weather, and still, clear days. The temperature was remarkable for this season of the year, being milder than on the main-land. On the 31st of March the snow at the foot of the hills on the latter extended to the sea, while in the Lofoden it was several hundred feet above. On the 1st of April, on deck, the mercury stood at 52° while we traversed the Raftsund; in 1871, in the same re- gion, at the end of July, the mercury stood at 40°, and 48° at the warmest time of the day, with the wind blowing from the north-east. In some of the sheltered nooks at the base of the mountains at Stamsund, where the stones reflected the heat of the sun's rays, daisies blossomed on the Tth of April ; and I was assured that the year previous some were in bloom at the end of February. For the last six days the thermometer ranged in Henningsvser from 42° to 45°, and one day reached 52° in the shade, without any influence whatever from the sun's rays; and on the Tth of April, at Stamsund, the lowest 134 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. point was from 38° to 40°. This was the finest and warmest weather they had had that year. The steamer JVordstJerjien (Star of the I^orth) had arrived in the midst of a very tempestuous time, and ky quietly at anchor outside, protected by the mountains there. The sea was smooth, though the wind swept between the islands witli great force ; but there was no space for it to rise. For four days no one was allowed to go fishing. The catches even be- fore had been small, and the fishermen who were going north had already left by hundreds, many of them intending to stop for Easter at Tromso. Hard, indeed, would be their journey in their little open boats — gales and snow-storms, rain and sleet, cold and wet these hardy sons of Norway must encoun- ter ; but the sea is their element, and the wind the music they love. They are still the true descendants of the Vikings. The steamer waited for the storm to moderate ; the gale was at its height on Friday and Saturday, 11th and 12th. I left the Lofoden on the 13th of April, bidding farewell to those who had been so good and kind to me. The deck of the vessel was literally packed with fishermen, and their heavy wooden chests were piled everywhere ; so also were numerous nets and lines, and cooking utensils. Every one "U'as good-nat- ured — laughing, talking, and looking forward to the Finmar- ken fisheries. They were going to sleep wherever they could on deck, for hardly any of them had taken second-class tickets ; they wanted to save their money, and were satisfied with third- class. In a few days the Lofoden would be entirely deserted — boats and fishermen gone — and on the shores of many an island not one would be left to watch the sea. THE GULF-STREAM. 135 CHAPTER X. Climate of Scandinavia. — The Gulf-stream. — Temperature of the Sea. — Summer Heat. — A Temperate Strip of Land. — Prevalent Winds. — Table Showing the Temperature beyond the Arctic Circle. — Highest Temperature on the Norwegian Coast. — The Coldest and Warmest Months. — Number of Rainy and Snowy Days. — Foggy Days. — Thunder-storms. — Temperature of Northern and Southern Swe- den. — Temperature of the Wells. — Fall of Rain in Sweden. — General Remarks on the Temperature between Haparanda, Stockholm, Petersburg, Copenhagen, Christiansund, Yarmouth, and Valentia. In the first volume we have spoken of the vegetation of Scandinavia. "We will now, before proceeding farther, give a general idea of the climate, which is remarkable, especially in the far K^orth, when compared with that of other lands in the same latitude. In countries like Xorwaj and Sweden, which reach from lat. 55° 20' to North Cape, 71° 10' — an extent as great as that from the most northern part of the State of Maine to Florida — one must, of course, find a great diversity of climate and vegetation. The boundaries include more ter- ritory than those of any other country in Europe except Rus- sia, its total area amounting to 294,000 English square miles. An oblique line from Northern Germany through France and Spain would equal the length of the Scandinavian pen- insula, but its greatest width is not more than seven hundred miles. The Gulf- stream sweejDS along the Norwegian coast and prevents the formation of ice ; only the upper extremity of the fjords are frozen in winter, this being due to the lesser density and greater freshness of the water from incoming streams. On the two following pages are the maps showing the temperature of the sea between Norway, Sweden, Scot- land, and Iceland. The sea is warmer than the air from Sep- tember to May, the reverse being true from June until the 13G THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUX. 8EA-TEMrEKATDUE IN DEOE.MUEB, JANUARY, AMI) FEISEUARY. end of August. The Gulf- stream is warmest in summer in tlio south, the mean temperature of the water during the months of June, July, and August averaging, on tlie Skager Rack, 62° ; in some places I have found it 75° near the shore. It flows BEA-TEMrEUATUEE IN MAKOII, Al'KlL, AND MAY. CHARTS OF SEA-TEMPERAIVllE. 137 BEA-TEMPEBATCEE IN JUUE, JUXY, AND AUGUST. more rapidly as it proceeds northward, and is warmest on the coast of Norway, between Lindesnses and Lyster, in Lit. 5T° 59' and 58° 6', where the mean temperature is 4S° or 49°, falling gradually to 46° or 45° as it reaches North Cape, and thence 6EA-TE.MrEEATUBE IN SEPTEMIiEK, OOTOBEB, -VND NOVE.MUEE. 138 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. losing its heat farther east. The temjjerature of the sea is at its maximum in August, and minimum in February — both, therefore, coming later than the extremes of the air temper- ature : the yearly variation in the former is greatest on the southern coast of Norway, and smallest farther out where the sea is deeper. It is especially in winter that the influence of the Gulf-stream is felt. In summer the sun's heat regulates the motions of the atmosphere ; the effect of this is greater inland than on the coast, thus causing a variation of pressure and northward air-currents. During: the autumn the warmth of the sea diminishes : at North Cape in September and October, and November being about 43°. Later the reverse is the case; the temperature of the sea on the Skager Rack is about that of the air, 38°; and the Christiania and some other fjords grow gi-adually warmer as the current flows northward to Helliso, lat. 60° 45', attaining there a mean temperature of 42° to 43°. At North Cape the w^ater is the coldest in March and April, its mean temperature being 48°. The absolute temperature variation of the air in inner Fin- marken and South-east Norway is 126°; at Finmarken fjords, on Dovre, and in Christiania, 108° ; on the Finmarken coast, Nordland fjords, the north side of Dovre, along the Lange f jelds and mouth of Christiania fjord, 90° ; on the coast from Tromso to Christiansund, and Bergen to Lindesnass, 40° ; on the whole west coast, 54°. The number of days having a daily mean below 32° follow the same course. On a narrow strip of the coast from Folden fjord to Lindes- Hfes the mean daily temperature never sinks below the freez- ing-point. In Central Scandinavia the daily temperature is be- low zero during more than seven months ; thence this num- ber decreases, so that at the Bothnia and on the Finmark coast it is six months ; at Yester&len, along the Nordland coast, Trondhjem, in inner Sogne, at Christiania, and Stockholm, four months ; and, finally, at the outer Trondhjem fjord, Romsdal fjord, Sogne, Hardanger, and Arendal, two months. This shows the warming influence of the sea. On the west coast, in Northern Norwaj', and at the Chris- ^^•J.V TEMrERATURE BEYOND TEE ARCTIC CIRCLE. 139 tiania fjord, southerly to south-westerly winds are prevalent. In the whole country to the south-west the prevailing breezes are from the south, although easterly winds occasionally oc- cur. The average warmth generally lessens as one gets far- ther north, but in Norway the heat decreases most towards the east ; thus, on the west coast, from Stadt to Lyster, the yearly average is 45°, which in Sweden is found only as far north as Gothenburg and Wexio. The contrast between the inland and coast climate is most apparent when observing the yearly variation of temperature in different places. Though the summers in the far North are short, there are days when the heat is greater than that of the country farther to the south. THE RESULT OP TEN YEARS' OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE BEYOND THE ARCTIC CIRCLE. Lati- tude. c 3 1-5 j= a Deg. 't, p. < Deg. Deg. o c 3 Deg. 3 >-3 Deg. ti 3 < Deg. ■Jl Deg. o Deg. Deg. a Moan of the Year. Deg. Min. Deg. Deg. Deg. Deg. Vardo 70 22 18 20 23 29 35 41 47 48 41 29 26 21 32 Hamnierfest . . 70 40 23 22 26 30 37 46 53 51 45 36 31 24 30 Kafjord 69 57 18 15 20 29 39 48 54 54 45 39 25 22 34 Tromso 69 39 22 21 25 31 38 48 49 50 45 87 28 23 35 Bodo 67 17 26 37 29 30 41 50 54 54 49 41 31 28 89 The heat in the sun is far greater in proportion to the shade than in any other country, sometimes being twice as much. The days of the year when the temperature is the same be- yond the arctic circle are about as follows : Vardo April 27 October 27 Hammerfest May 5 .... October 15 Kafjord April 25 .... v^ctober 1 2 Tromso May 2 .... November 1 Bodo May 3 October 22 The greater heat in summer and the greater cold in winter are both found inland, while the coast has milder winters and cooler summers. The smallest variation on the Scandinavian peninsula, 12°, is observed from Stadt to Hiteren and Lofoden. On the coast of Norway the highest temperature in the sum- mer may reach 77° to 80°, while a short distance inland it is 82° to 86° ; at Christiania, 88° ; and even on the top of Dovre, 140 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 2098 feet above the sea, 84°. Near the Justedalsbrteen, in winter, the climate is pretty mild, in consequence of the large rainfall caused by the glacier, which comes down in the shape of snow. In the far Kortli the cold reaches 40° to 45° below zero, and in Central Sweden sometimes 40°. The coldest days occur generally between the middle of January and the middle of February, and earlier in the east than the west ; the hottest weather is between the middle of July and the middle of August. The part of the country having the greatest rain and snow fall is from Sogne fjord to Stadt, where the yearly fall is Y2 inches, while Christiania has only 20 and Dovre about 13 inches. On the coast the great- est fall occurs in autumn — in Christiania, in August. The number of days with rain or snow is in Dovre only 90 ; on the coast of Skager Rack, 100 ; in Bodo, Tromso, and Yardo, about 120 ; Christiania, Komsdal, and the Ilelgeland coast, 140 ; Bergen and fjords to the north, and Vesteralen, 160 ; and Lofoden, ISO days in the year: while inland it rains or snows every fourth day, it does so at Lofoden every other day; inVardo it rains 54 days, and snows 71; in Dovre there are 42 rainy and 48 snowy days; in Christiania there are twice as many rainy days as those in which snow falls ; in Bergen, five times ; and in Lofoden, one and a half times as many. Finmarken is generally free from snow in summer. Vardo and Bodo in July and August have no falls of snow, but it has been known to fall in July. In Lofoden snow has fallen three or four times in July within ten years. In Dovre and Yardo it falls as frequently in May as in October ; in other places this happens only in April and November; and on the west coast only in March. The fall of snow varies each year considerably. I have known more to fall in one week in my trip northward than during the rest of the winter, and found much less in the Dovre fjelds in January than in September of the previous year. Measurement of its depth is quite difficult, being greatly affected by the temperature ; for, though much in quantity, it is often light and spongy ; while at other times, though less in bulk, it is dry and com- pact, and affords excellent sleighing. DURATION OF ICE ON THE LAKES. 141 The iniinber of foggy days is, at Yardo, 18; Lofoden, 13; Christiansund, T; Dovre, 10 ; Alesund, Skudenaes, Maudal, and Sandosuiid, 20 ; Bergen, 40 ; and Christiania, 62. A marked yearly peculiarity must be noted here. In the east, from Lin- desnses to Christiania, most foggy days occur in winter; on the west coast, on the contrary, almost exclusively in summer ; in Bergen they are divided pretty evenly the year round, but occur most often in June. Thunder-storms are rare, occurring on the west coast only in winter, and after strong westerly winds, generally near the sea ; but in South-eastern Xorway they take place only in sum- mer, and as often inland as near the coast. Beyond the polar circle they are seldom noted. I learned that snow and hail, which generall}^ accompany the thunder-showers, do very lit- tle damage, and that the lightning rarely strikes. In Sweden the mean temperature for the year in the far North is 34°, while in the South it is from 44° to 46°. At Stockholm it is 41° to 43°. The wells, which give a pretty ac- curate idea of the earth's temperature, show about the same figures ; in Central Sweden they have a yearly average of about 43° ; while in the north they are often found covered with ice all summer, and swamps are frozen hard to a depth of five to six feet. Lakes are ice-bound in the south for about 115 days, in the central part 150, and in the north 230. The annual fall of rain is less than in I^orway, and is, as a general rule, pretty evenly distributed throughout the country. On tlie west coast it is about 21 inches ; in the interior, in the cen- tral part, 16 ; on the south-east coast 13 ; and in the north 12. In the southern part of Sweden the winter climate is quite even, and might be compared with that of parts of Western and Northern New York, but in the summer the nights are much cooler than in the United States, and the heat of the sun is not so powerful ; consequently Indian-corn does not ripen. From the meteorological observations noted down in the daily records (1879) — for Haparanda, Stockholm, St. Peters- burg, Copenhagen, Christiansund (Norway), Yarmouth, and Yalentia (Spain) — I note the following remarkable facts : in June, 1879, the warmest average weather for the month was 142 TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. experienced in these places in the following order: first at Stockholm, then Copenhagen, St. Petersburg, Yarmouth, Va- lentia, Haparanda, and Christiansund. The hottest day, how- ever, was in Haparanda, on the 5th of June, 66°. In July the latter place had the highest mean temperature of the month, though I have only the records from the 1st to the 15th ; it had also the highest mean of a day, 68°. In August, Stockholm, Christiansund, and Copenhagen had the highest temperature, being 62° — Yalentia, St. Petersburg, and Hapa- randa being the lowest. In September, Copenhagen, Yar- mouth, and Yalentia were the warmest. For October, 1878, I have only the data of the last half of the month : Haparanda was the coldest, then Stockholm ; next followed Copenhagen, then Valentia, Yarmouth coming fifth in the scale. In Janu- ary of that year St. Petersburg, Haparanda, and Copenhagen were the coldest ; Yalentia and Yarmouth the warmest. As a general rule, Haparanda is the coldest locality during the winter. SCENEEY OF THE COAST. 143 CHAPTER XI. NOEDLAND, TEOMSO, AND FINMAEKEN PROVINCES. The three Northern Proviuces of Norway. — Tlie Wildest Scenery on the Coast. — Population. — Products of the Soil. — Occupation of the People. — Fishing. — Great Number of Fishermen. — Homes on the Coast. — Steamers everywhere. — Impor- tance of the Cod-tisheries. — Number of Cod caught. — The Herring-fisheries. — Number of Men employed. — Spring Fisheries. — Migration of the Herring. — How Herring are caught. — Immense Catch of Herring. — Summer Fisheries. — Number of Herring caught. — The Spitzbergen and Nova Zembla Fisheries. — A Sea-faring People. — Norwegian and Swedish Mercantile Navy. NoEWEGiAjsT Kordland includes that part of the coiiiitiy which extends from about lat. 65° to 70° on the coast, and comprises the old province known under the name of Haloga- land, and which is now divided into ISTordland and Tromso provinces, while Finmarken is farther north. The scenery on the shores is the wildest on the coast of Norway, and culmi- nates in its savage and weird grandeur between the cities of Bodo and Tromso ; there the loftiest mountains are found ; the highest being between the Lyngeu and Ulfs fjords, with an altitude of 6500 feet, and present the characteristics of the Alps. Glaciers and snow-clad peaks are seen from the sea. The abrupt sides of these elevations often cause landslides and avalanches of snow. At the bases of these wild, abrupt, and jagged slopes are sometimes rich wooded land and luxuriant pastures, with here and there a driving -road, and sometimes wild bridle-paths, leading from one fjord to another. Sailing along that apparently forsaken coast, noting the tow- ering dreary mountains in the background, and remembering how short are the summers and long and stormy the winters, one can hardly believe that fine agricultural land and extended forests are to be found there. In Nordland the population is about 100,000, of whom 7000 are fishermen, and 15,000 144 THE LAND Or THE MIDXIGHT SUN. farmers. The number of horses is 7500 ; of cattle, 65,000 ; of slieep, 108,000 ; of goats, 24,000 ; of swine, 5433. Nordland produces 850,000 bushels of grain, and 1,100,000 bushels of potatoes. In the province of Tromso there are about 53,000 inhabitants, among whom are over 5000 fishermen, and as many farmers. There are over 26,500 head of cattle, 58,000 sheep, 4500 horses, 1800 pigs, and 10,000 goats. An average of 120,000 bushels of grain and 400,000 bushels of potatoes are raised yearly. This part of the country was settled by the Vikings, several of the chiefs being mentioned in the sagas. There are also several old churches of stone, among which are those of Ibestad and Trondenties. Contiguous to Tromso lies Finmarken, the most northern province of J^Torway. The Arctic Sea washes its rocky shores on three sides; its territory has an extent of coast, not includ- ing the fjords, of about 350 miles, and covers an area of 2600 square miles, or the seventh part of the territory of Norway. Finmarken proper commences at about lat. 70°, at a point be- tween Kvsenangen and Alten fjords, and extends along the coast to the Russian boundary by Jakob River. Its most southern point inland lies near the mountain Beldovado, while the most northerly is North Cape. A straight line from Bel- dovado to North Cape measures about 190 miles. In compari- son with the country farther south Finmarken is a low land, as its greatest area lies less than 1000 feet above the sea. The highest mountains are the Gaiser range, reaching about 3000 feet, but they are entirely without snow in summer. In the interior of this province bare rocks are not very common, being generally covered by glacial gravel ; while in the river- bottoms nearest to the sea fine sand is quite prevalent. In the Tana, Alten, Laxe, and Eiby rivers gold is found, though not in paying quantities. Five large fjords wind their \vay far inland — the Alten, the Porsanger, the Laxe, the Tana, and the Varanger — and between each tw^o lies a huge stretch of rocky land, forming peninsulas, upon which the Laplander and their reindeer roam. On the Alten and Laxe rivers there are quite considerable deltas, with clay beds rich in phosphoric acid, mak- ing them very fertile for the growth of grass. STATISTICS OF POPULATIOX. 145 Islands dot the sea, in many places protecting the coast, which appears from a distance to belong to a land of desola- tion entirely uninhabited. On the boundary between Tromso and Finmarken is the Jokel glacier, the only one in Scandina- via which, like those found in Greenland, sheds pieces. The Tana is the largest river, and is navigable by boats as far as Ulvefos, 210 miles from the sea ; its longest tributary is the Karasjoki. The Alten and Pasvig rivers are considerable wa- ters, the latter rising in Enare Lake. The lakes north of the Gaiser mountains empty into the Porsanger fjord through the Laxe Kiver. This bleak province has nearly 24,000 inhabitants, which number includes 6700 fishermen and 2800 farmers. There are over 9000 head of cattle, 20,000 sheep, 2500 goats, and 400 pigs. Not much grain is raised, but over 30,000 bushels of potatoes. In these two most northerly provinces twenty- eight per cent, of the population are pure Lapps and Finns. Of Lapps proper there are in Norway 17,178; of Finlanders, 7637 ; of Lapp and Finnish half-breeds, 909 ; mixed Norwe- gians, Finns, and Lapps, 2961, among whom the Nomads are only 1577; the merchants are almost always Norwegians. The yearly average of marriages according to population was in Finmarken seven and six -tenths for every thousand inhabitants ; in Tromso, six and one-fifth. The people inter- marry closely, and the mixed offspring of the three nation- alities form an excellent race. The inhabitants of the Lyngen, Alten, and Skjaervo parishes are better educated, and have finer dwellings. Fishing is the chief occupation of the inhabitants : many of the farms are owned by fishermen. "Wherever there is a good harbor one is sure to see some houses, or a fishing-village con- sistins: of several families who have settled toarether. Each, merchant owns several homes for fishermen, resembling those of Lofoden ; every man pays one dollar for the season, and when four or five merchants are settled together there is quite a village. Sometimes two or three families dwell in one place all the year round : they have a few cows, goats, or sheep, which feed chiefly on the heads of fish, which are cooked for them. VOL. II. L 146 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. In other places the settlement consists of a single merchant's family, with his own men and servants; the warehouse stands on piles by tlie sea, and the effect is that of a little hamlet. The larger steamers stop during the fishing season at many such places, and tliere are smaller ones of lighter draught whicli ply among the fjords and land at the various establish- ments. The cod-fislieries are of the utmost importance to Norway; the people live, and even get rich, by them. There are three varieties of the common species, namely, the sea cod {Gadus morrhua), the fjord cod {Gadus vireris), and the ling {3folva mdgaris), also of the cod family ; the last two are often very large, frequently attaining a length of six feet. In Tromso the number caught averages 5,000,000, and in Finmarken 12,000,000 ; including the Lofoden fisheries, the catch aver- ages about 38,000,000 or 40,000,000 ; on the whole Norwegian coast, 50,000,000 : these figures are for the season. A great deal of brown cod-liver oil is made. Next in importance are the herring fisheries. The herring {Chcpea harengus) is plentiful all along the Norwegian coast, but only on that part lying between Lindesnses and Lofoden is it the object of any extended fishing. As far back as his- tory goes, or from about the ninth century, these fisheries have been of great value ; but they have also been subject to great- er variations tlian the cod-fisheries, and only at a comparative- ly later period did they yield any proper article of trade. In 1416 a Hollander, Beuckel, devised the art of salting the her- ring, and, when soon afterwards the knowledge reached Nor- way, this industry at once attained great prominence. They are divided into two principal classes : the spring or large herring -fisheries, which take place in the beginning of the year, when the herring, in immense shoals, go inshore to shed their roes, and the summer and autumn fisheries, at whicli time the fish is smaller, when they run in near land to feed on the enormous masses of Cope/poda (very small crawfish), Annelida.^ and Molhisca, which are plentiful at that time of the year on certain parts of the coast. The spring fisheries extend from latitude 57° 59' to 60° 25'; THE nEniilXG-FISnEIlT. 14:7 the herring rarely goes east of Lindesnoes, and but seldom north of Stadt. The time and places of their arrival are very irregular, but usually their season is from January till March. At the same time, also, occurs the fishery for large herring, but generally only on the Nordland coast and by Lofoden. The summer herring-fishery is still more uncertain, and occurs at different dates here and there along the coast from Lofoden to the southward ; it very much depends on the whereabouts of the food sought by the fish. In this season the herring has, as said, no roe or milt, but fat, and is therefore called fat herring : it is also smaller than the spring herring. The different names and sizes of the herring depend, ac- cording to Professor G. O. Tars, on their various ages ; the largest, the "storsild," being six years old. The irregularity in the time of the arrival of the herring, and its periodical dis- appearance from long stretches of the coast, are hardly caused by any decrease in the mass of fish, as the number caught by man is insignificant in comparison with what is eaten by other enemies of the fish. There is very little iDrobabilitj'- of its having taken to other runs or sought another coast, but it is more likely that in summer it has found its food farther out at sea, and about the shedding period has not had time to get inshore, and therefore has been obliged to shed its roe on the more distant banks (where the fish has been seen lately) when it did not appear on the west coast at the usual time. The herring is caught with nets, the meshes of which are about an inch in diameter. These nets are 60 to 75 feet long and 12 feet deep, and are kept at a proper depth by stones and floats, generally of cork. These nets are tied together, set at night, and taken up in the morning. A series of three yields ten, twelve, and sometimes as high as twenty barrels of her- ring, but the average catch is about six bai*rels. Each boat carries five to eight series, or fifteen to twenty-four nets. The crew consists of four or five men and boys. Another mode of catching the herring is with a seine about 750 feet in length and from 90 to 120 feet in depth, which is used to enclose the immense shoals. Several small boats and L 2 148 TEE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGET SUN. a larger vessel, in wliicli the men lodge — generally twenty- five to thirty — form a seine gang. The foreman having charge of the work, and often owning the whole or part of the equipment, is called the seine boss. The complete fishing outfit costs from 6000 to 8000 kronor. The work is done in the following manner : when the herring comes inshore, in a bay or sound, the seine is drawn around the mass of fish, whereby a so-called herring-lock {sildelds) is formed. The ap- proach of the herring is generally indicated by the large fish or birds following the shoals, or in the night by a lead and line, with which a trained fisherman can feel if they have arrived in sufficient numbers. The catch depends, in a great decree, on the skill of the seine boss. When two or more seine gangs have worked at making the lock, the catch belongs to that gang which first gets down its seines. Disputes are settled immediately by the opsi/nsmmid. When the lierring is locked, the men hurry to empty the enclosure by means of a smaller seine or drag-net, which is drawn towards tlie shore, where the fish are taken up with hand-nets and emptied into the boats, which, after being filled, are sent out, and the fish sold to owners of trading-vessels. It is by no means rare that several thousand barrels are enclosed within the seines, and it has happened that 20,000 to 30,000 barrels have been taken in a single catch, the value of which is very considera- ble. Sometimes, however, the seines are torn to pieces when bad weather occurs before they are emptied. Part of the fisheries have of late been managed by vessels of 40 to 60 tons, each carrying four to five boats'-crews, and accompanying tlie latter over whatever course the fish may take. The spring fisliery is often attended by risks, though perhaps not so much so as that for the cod, and is generally more uncertain than the latter. Many a time the fishermen lay-to and consume their provisions, waiting in vain for the herring, and finally have to go home empty-handed, while at times the fishing is so rich that small fortunes are made. The fish are usually sold immediately to merchants, who, with their vessels, are always lying in wait for the fishermen ; and as soon as these little vessels, holding from 400 to 500 bar- THE SUMMER FISHERIES. 149 rels, are full, tliej repair at once to the saltin£^ establishments, erected cither in tlie towns or near tlie best iishing-grounds. Here tlie tish are gilled, which is done by making a cut with a sharp knife over the throat of the herring, whereupon the windpipe and entrails are drawn out with a quick motion, and a little blood escapes. This process is usually done by women. Tlie fish are then packed between layers of salt, in barrels which hold about 480 : for a barrel, one-quarter barrel of salt is used. Two skilled gillers can clean and fill thirty barrels a day. Later, the herrings are sorted and repacked. The summer fisheries, or those for fat herring, begin shortly after the close of the spring fisheries; but the best herring appear in August and September ; the fish are then caught partly by nets and partly with seines. Those taken by the latter are left enclosed a couple of days before being removed, so as -to allow them to get rid of their food. As the sum- mer herrings are smaller, the nets and seines have smaller meshes, generally three-quarters of an inch in diameter. The nets are 90 feet long and 24 feet deep, and six nets are tied together. When using the seines, the fishermen have to pay the owners of the adjoining coast a percentage of their catch for the right of drawing to the shore, and also have to in- demnify such owners for any damage done to their crops. This percentage in the Bergen provinces is six per cent, of the catch — in all other places three per cent. The aggregate number of barrels of herring caught an- nually is 1,312,000— it has reached as high as 1,800,000 ; of sprats {Clupea sjprattus — hriding), 342,000; the number of mackerel caught is about 5,000,000. The average value of the catch is : cod, $5,000,000 ; herring, $3,503,000 ; other fisheries, $193,000; total, $8,696,000. To Spitzbergen and Kova Zembla are sent yearly about 30 vessels for seal-fishing, with 268 men, the value of the catch being 44,778 specie dollars ; for seal-catching at Jan Mayen Land were sent 15 vessels with 684 men, the value of the catch being 184,000 specie dollars: 1,200,000 lobsters were exported alive to England, and also 140 tons of salmon on ice. The number of seals caught was 63,700 ; and of whales, 36. 150 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. The licrring migrates, and is known to have disappeared for years from many districts, but sometimes appears in immense numbers on the west coast of Sweden. The herring fisheries along the east coast are carried on by more tlian 3000 boats, and in 1873 the catch was about 150,000 bai-rcls. On the isLmd of Gotland 2000 people with 600 boats are engaged in these fisheries. The Baltic herring is a smaller variety of the common kind. On the banks in the Kattegat or the North Sea are eniployed vessels of 65 to 200 tons burden, with crews of 12 to 14 men. The mackerel-fishery is carried on along the west coast by about 1500 men with nearly 400 boats. The number of men employed in the fisheries for cod is about 60,000, in the lierring- fisheries 50,000, and then come the mackerel-fisheries with 3000, making, with the sailors of the merchant marine, a grand total of nearly eight per cent, of the whole population who live by maritime pursuits. The Norwegians are pre-eminently a seafaring people, and outrank every other nation in Europe in that respect. Eng- land employs a far greater number of seamen in her mercan- tile navy; but many of the crews of her ships are often chiefly composed of men alien to her soil ; besides, many Norsemen are found in foreign bottoms, and vessels on the great Amer- ican lakes are frequently manned by them. But it is in her fishermen, wdio are the most hardy of sailors, that Norway out- strips her rival, who is popularly knoAvn as the " Mistress of the Seas." Besides the thousands engaged in the large fish- eries, there is a numerous home population that almost sub- sists by fishing. From the latest statistics (1877) the merchant navy con- sisted of 8064 vessels, with an aggregate carrying capacity of 1,493,041 tons: 7791 were sailing-vessels, with a tonnage of 1,446,172 tons, and 273 were steamers, of 46,869 tons. In that year of commercial depression the ships earned by foreign freights 98,444,000 kronor, or about 26,600,000 dollars. Of this sum, 21,000,000 kronor represent the freights of the car- rying-trade between Norway and foreign countries ; between the United States and other countries, 25,000,000 kronor ; and N0IiJrEGIA2i AND SWEDISH MERCANTILE NAVY. 151 last year more than 1000 Xorwegian vessels came to tlie port of New York, at one time more than 250 barks being seen Ijing along-side the docks. The foreign trade was carried by 5049 sailing-vessels with a capacity of 1,371,300 tons ; 95 steamers " " 38,974 " Only 47 vessels had a tonnage of over 1,000 " " 1 vessel " " 1,500 " " 2 steamers " " 1 ,500 " In domestic traffic were engaged 1(33 steamers, only two exceeding 500 tons, the greater number carrying between 20 and 100 tons. Engaged in the whale and seal fishery were 15 steamers with a capacity of 3643 tons ;• 55 sailing-vessels " " 2200 " The sailing-vessels were manned by 58,911 men ; the steam- ers by 3229. The coasting trade is open to ressels of all nationalities, npon the same conditions as of Xorway, and people are at liberty to buy their ships anywhere. The mercantile navy of Sweden is much smaller than that of Xorway. At the end of 1873 it consisted of 3900 vessels of 434,310 tons, manned by 24,750 men ; of these vessels 5G5, carrying 51,590 tons, were steamers. This only included ves- sels of ten tons and over. 152 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XIL Continuous Snow-storms. — Difficult Navigation. — Ports of Refuge. — Hammerfest in Winter. — Tlie Magero Sound. — Fishing Settlements on Magero. — Immense Num- ber of Birds. — The Laxe Fjord. — Finkirken. — Cape Nordkyn. — Vardo. — An Old Fort. — Reception at the Fort. — Vadso. — Religious Excitement. — The Catching of Bait. — Finns in Vadso. — Long Days coming. — The Varanger Fjord. — Remark- able Vegetation and Forests. — The Norwegian and Russian Boundary. — Nyborg. — An Obliging Lensmand. — No Reindeer to be had. — Lapp Houses. The trip by steamer from the Lofoden was a continuation of gales and snow-storms, against wliicli our vessel with diffi- culty made its way. We had occasionally to cast anchor for a few hours, both by day and by night, being unable to pro- ceed. This voyage of a day in fair weather often takes a week in a gale. At Tromso we had to stop until a snow- storm abated. There were there several thousand fishermen, who were waiting for safer wind in order to continue the journey northward with their boats, or for steamers, either to go home or to some fishing- place on the coast of Fin- marken. Many evidently were making up for the solitary life they had led, and I thought the sudden increase of pop- ulation was not very conducive to the good of the place. The lower part of the town, by the fjord, was entirely in pos- session of the new-comers, many of whom spent their money freely, to the joy of the store-keepers and others. At the important fishing-village of Skjservo, which possesses a splendid harbor — the best between Ilannnerfest and Tromso — we were obliged to cast anchor, on account of a violent wind and snow-storm. Thence w^e steamed slowly towards the fish- ing settlement of Loppen, on the island of that name ; across to Hasvik, on the island of Soro ; and then up the long sound to Hammerfest. The streets of Hammerfest were filled with snow, and the port with fishing-boats at anchor; tliese had A DESOLATE COAST. 153 come from the south and the Lofoden, and were waiting for the storm to abate so that thej might continue their voyage along tlie coast. The streets were crowded with idle fisher- men and Sea Laplanders, in their dresses of reindeer skins. They did not know what to do with themselves while waiting for a change. The thermometer seldom falls to 20° below zero ; even in the depth of winter it stands for consecutive days several degrees above freezing-point. The discharge of a gun on board the steamer at midnight notified our passengers to go on board; the stars were shining; it was the first clear weath- er for several Aveeks here, and the tenth day of an almost con- tinuous snow-storm. But the improvement was maintained only a few hours. We also had to wait for a lull in the storm. The route in winter is through the Magero Sound, steam- ers not doubling Korth Cape. On the little island of Fruhol- men, latitude 71° 5' 45", is situated the most northerly light- house on the globe, guiding the mariner along that desolate and dangerous coast, and warning him of danger. We passed a fine mountain, called Kjerringen (old woman), and Cape Stikkelvaagnseringen, with its sharp pjn'amidal mountain peaks. An indescribable feeling of utter desolation impressed me as I looked on that bleak land ; the steep sides of the mountain seemed striped with black and white, which made the scene appear still wilder. The whole coast, from a distance, seemed to rise vertically. The dark gray sky was in unison with the dreary landscape; the wind was cold and piercing. But even on that bleak island of Magero the Norsemen have settlements. Suddenly masts of vessels appeared ; fish- ing-boats were seen at anchor, and houses stood near the shore. It was the fishing-station of Honningsvaag. Kjelvig is the most eastern station on the island ; and its church, vessels, and houses soon came in sight. Though the sound was quiet the wind blew a gale on the mountain-tops ; there the snow flew in thick clouds, which suddenly came together, whirling, like a water- spout, in a spiral column, which, in turn becoming broken, sent its particles from Magero far over the sea. Here are the highest tides on the Scandinavian coast. At 154 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. the Kattegat the tides are feeble, but they increase gradually towards the nortli. At Stavanger they rise three feet ; at Trondhjem, eight, and at the North Cape and Vadso, nine feet. From Kjelvig we sailed across the Porsanger fjord to Cape Svserholdtklubben. This fjord extends southward as far as 70° latitude, and is the largest within the arctic circle, having a length of about 85 miles ; its shores are dreary ; here and there one sees a Lapp hut. Farther inland some of the hills are clad with small birches. There are two or three fishing settlements and two churches. Cape SvaBrholdtklubben forms the extremity of a long peninsula, dividing the Porsanger from the Laxe fjord, averaging a height of about 1000 feet at its eastern extremity. The scenery is wild near the cape ; rag- ged mountains rise like walls near the abrupt shore, torn in many places, and with huge masses of rock piled up at their base. As we rounded the caj^e an immense number of small gulls, frightened by our steamer, ilew wildly above and around us; the air was thick and every crevice in the rocks white with them ; I had never before seen such numbers of birds to- gether; there must have been hundreds of thousands, perhaps millions. The fishermen there ask, " Who is the biggest king in the world?" "The king of Svserholdt; because he has the most subjects." This bird, the Larus tridadylus, is the small- est species of gull, and the number of eggs they lay in the crevices of the mountains and on the plateaus must be simply innumerable. The captain fired a gun, and the view above our heads became extraordinary^, in some places the birds be- ing so numerous as to hide the sky. Then we came to the little fishing settlement of Svserholdt, which takes its name from the cape, and is protected by it ; with north or north-west wind the landing is difticult. A sin- gle family dwells here all the year round. The year before, in mid-winter, their house was burned, and one of the chil- dren was lost ; no trace whatever of him was found ; the peo- ple to this day do not know whether, in the darkness of the night, he fell into the water or was burned. On the eastern shore of the Laxe fjord, near its entrance, TWO MOST NORTHERN CHURCHES OF EUROPE. 155 and almost opposite Cape Svferlioldtkliibben, is a narrow baj- like arm of the sea, called the Eids fjord. From the deck of the vessel we conld see beyond a narrow low tract of land, the Hops fjord, a small eastern branch of the Tana fjord : the Eids is shallow, while tlie Hops is deep. The distance between these two being very small, the Storthing has been asked to make an appropriation to cut a canal to connect them ; this would be of great advantage to the fisheries in bad weather. The configuration of the land reminded me forcibly of that of the island of Magero, and showed tliat, when the country was still beneath the sea, the Kjorgosj IS^jarg, the name of the massive rock, which is indented with bays and fjords, was an island. On the Laxe fjord is the thrifty fisliing settlement of Lebes- by, with a church. The northern coast of the Kjorgosj Njarg is the wildest in Finmarken, the cliffs being very nigged. The strata of the rocks were seen distinctly ; masses had fallen down near and into the sea in large slabs. One of the great sights is the gammel Finkirken (old Lapp church), situated at the foot of the higli hills near the sea. I took this at first for the ruins of an old stone church or monastery, the end walls of which still remained, and I really believed it was an ancient ruin, whose pillars or walls only were standing. The illusion was complete until I came near it ; then I noted quite a distance between the two walls, though the slab structure gave the appearance of masonry : it was simply nature resem- bling the work of man. Finkirken certainly is one of the greatest curiosities of Northern Europe. At the head of the Kjolle fjord a picturesque wooden church and a few houses formed the settlement. The church is at about lat, 70° 55' ; this, with that of Kjelvig, are the two most northern churches in Europe. Continuing to skirt the shores, one doubles Nordkyn, lat. 71° 6' 50", the northern extremity. Kjorgosj Njarg is the most northern point of Europe, and is over 700 feet high. In the distance, westward, is North Cape, appearing like a black mass rising perpendicularly from the sea. From Nordkyn tlie coast gradually becomes lower, and ice was thick at the head of the 156 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. fjords. Fisliing-stations, where there are a few vessels, con- tinue to be seen, wliile bright-painted churches testify that the seafaring popuhition has places of worship on that oft-desolate coast. Then one enters the Tana fjord, which pierces through the mass of rocks for a distance of about forty-five miles ; its mountains are high, in some places reaching a height of from 2000 to 2300 feet. Here the geological formation is chiefly of sandstone quartz, of white, red, and yellow strata, and is crum- bling everywhere. Its upper end is filled with sand -banks formed by the Tana River. This fjord is remarkable for the forest of birches lining its shores to the south ; it has several branches. Crossing the Tana fjord, one sails along the Yargack Njarg, another huge knoll, bounded on the west by the Tana fjord and river, the sea, and the Yaranger fjord. From Tana Horn the elevation of the coast continues to decrease, and is not more than three or four hundred feet. Some fishing-stations are passed, and one conies to Yardo, the most important town on the coast of Finmarken. "We entered that crowded port in the midst of a violent snow-storm. The place is built chiefly on two bays extending in opposite directions, separated only by a narrow tract of land in the shape of an elongated prom- ontory; an island farther at sea partly protects the shores. The two harbors afford protection, one from the south-east- ern, the other from the north-western gales. The port is not good, and it is said to be the most unsheltered town on the whole of that northern coast : to judge by the strong wind blowing through its streets, and the huge snow-drifts, I should say that its reputation is well deserved. It is the coldest place in Finmarken, the mean temperature of the 3'ear being only a fraction of a degree above freezing-point ; but in cold winters it is exceeded by K§,fjord and Nyborg — the latter situated at the inner end of the Yaranger fjord. There were but few vessels, but hundreds of fishing-boats were stranded on the shores, and a great number were at anchor. The fleet had been unable to get out for more than three weeks on account of storms, and no bait had been caught. The place has a population of about 1200 inhabitants, anddur- 1 AN ECONOMICAL COMMANDANT. 157 ing the fisliing season it is mucli larger. It had an unfinished appearance ; some of the houses were painted, others not, and, owing to the ground, there was no symmetry in the arrange- ment of the streets. The city is situated on the island of Vardo, and at the most eastern extremity of the Vargack Njarg. Here are seen three very interesting shore-lines, form- ed of large pebbles, which have been mentioned in Chapter Xyill. of the first volume. Those large fishing settlements presented a singular sight. Scattered about were hundreds of poles on which the fish were hung to dry. Xear the bay were several manufactories of brown cod-liver oil, and projecting over the M^ater were the wharf-houses of the merchants, partly built on piles. Vardo is the only fortified place on the northern coast of Norway. On the way to the fort (Vardohus) the wind was so high that we could hardly stand against it, and the flying snow so blinded us that at times we could not see our way. Over the gate leading in was the date 1737. On one side of the house of the commandant of the fort the snow was piled above the door, and the first-story windows were hidden from view. We had to enter by the kitchen, where we found the oflicial engaged in making a pair of boots for one of his children. He had a large family to support, and strict econo- my was necessary. He received us kindly, and I admired his manliness, for he was not in the least ashamed that we saw him playing shoemaker. The fort had twenty old-style cannon in battery, and the garrison was composed of twenty soldiers — seamen, no doubt, for, on account of the small pay, six of the garrison fish for the commandant, three for the lieutenant, and two for the doctor; the fish are divided between the fishermen and the respective oflicers for whom they are caught. This was prim- itive enough, and showed plainly that the I^orweglans did not wish the expenses of their army to fall heavily upon the peo- ple. The barracks reminded me much of those of the Cos- sacks on the island of Tornea. From Yardo can be seen, on the other side of the bay which forms the entrance to Yaranger fjord, Cape Njemetski, the 158 TBE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. most northern point of the Gikker Njarg — the last njarg on the coast, unless we except the Kola peninsula (almost an island), and the shores of which form one of the most desolate regions of Russia in Northern Europe. Continuing to skirt the coast, about seventy miles farther one comes to Vadso. This last town on the Norwegian shore, with a population of 1800 inhabitants, is divided into the Finn and Norwegian quarters ; there are also a few Lapps. It is the seat of a court, and the judge is the chief functionary of the place. Like all fishing-stations, it is filled with framework used to dry the fish. Cod-liver oil, and guano from fish-heads and bones, are manufactured. A small steamer is engaged in the whale fishery in an unusual wa}'. The whales — which are numerous on this part of the coast — are killed by a gun which discharges a peculiar harpoon with an explosive shell. The creatures thus taken are towed into Vadso. Many have been obtained in this way during the past few years. The large Nor- wegian coasting steamer goes no farther, but there is gener- ally a small one plying weekly in the fjords. Yadso is the last telegraphic station. AVho would think that even on this lone coast the important news of the world flashes every day over the wires, and is made known to the inhabitants? The postal telegraph has always been used, with but one uniform rate all over the country, and from this northern part of the land a message to the most southern point of Norway costs but one krona. In Sweden it is the same, and, though the dis- tances are so great, the government is no loser; the rates will become still lower as soon as the receipts allow a reduction. The schools are good ; Greek, Latin, Hebrew, French, Ger- man, and English are taught. In this district some of the teachers have to know the Norwegian, Finnish, and Lapp lan- guages. In many of the inhabitants' houses pianos, guitars, violins, and concertinas are found. The homes of the mer- chants are large and exceedingly comfortable, and their hospi- tality unbounded. I was invited by a fellow -passenger on board the steamer, Ilerr W , to stay at his house. Kind- ness to strangers seems to be the law of the land, and I was introduced everywhere. INCREASE OF EMIGRATION. 159 During winter the inhabitants, having nothing to occupy their minds, sometimes labor under intense religious excite- ment. All through the past season there had been among the Finns a time so threatening that, had it not been for fear of the law, it might have ended seriously. The clergyman was not fanatical enough for these people, so they preached in their rooms ; force and threats were used against those who did not seem to be strong in the faith ; many declared that they had the spirit of the Lord and power of prophecy ; others believed that some were possessed of devils ; the clergyman was un- willing to go with them, and in their excitement they threat- ened him. For awhile the IS^orwegian inhabitants wore sober faces, not knowing how things might terminate, and fearing that perhaps it would end in bloodshed, as it had in Kauto- keino some years before, where people were killed by the fanatics, and the soldiei-s had to be called upon to quell the disturbance and punish the assassins, who thought they were doing God's will by murdering those who did not believe as they did. History repeats itself. The catching of lodd {MaUotus arcticus) at the fishing set- tlements produces great excitement, and the young people are continually on the watch for these little fish. When the shoals are pursued by cod they take refuge near the shore. AVhile we were in Vadso an immense number of them were caught, to the great joy of the population ; they had been wait- ing for them in order to commence the fishing-season, which was late that year on account of the very stormy weather that had prevented them from going out, and without lodd they had no bait to fish with. The emigration from Finland into jSTorway is increasing, and every year new settlers establish themselves on the coast. A strong tide has begun to set towards the United States, the people coming from Finland in sleighs, and starting for America in the spring. Several hundred had left by the way of Yadso the year before, the steamers taking them either to Trondhjem, Bergen, or Christiania. The long days came on with remarkable rapidity : the sun was below the horizon in these regions till the latter part of 160 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. January ; and now, on the 25th of April, in clear weather, I could read a newspaper by the window at midnight. I found here the largest specimens of reindeer I had ever seen ; these had come from the country of the Samoides, where they are said to be larger than in Norway and Sweden. The Varanger is the last of Norway's fjords, and the only one on the coast of Finmarken which runs east and west. It lies between 69° 30' and 69° 50', and is a most remarkable one. Its northern shore is almost entirely bare of vegeta- tion, and even brush-wood is very scarce; but the southern, known under the name of Sydvaranger (South Yaranger), has a remarkable growth, and is called Rafte siden (timber side) ; many of the houses of Yadso and other places have been built of timber from that forest. Large trees have become scarce near the sea. On Kjo, Bugo, and Neiden fjords, south- ern branches of the Yaranger, birches occur, and heather covers the rocks ; the grass is luxuriant ; the trees grow larger and larger towards the ends of the fjords, and thriving forests of fir and pine are continuous. Three large rivers, the Jakob, Nei- den, and Pasvig, all abounding with salmon, throw themselves into the fjord. As one ascends the latter stream — the largest of the rivers which rise in Lake Enare — the hills are covered to their tops with trees. These forests are said to cover an area of 230 square miles, almost untouched by the axe, except near the water, and many trees are large enough for timber. One wonders at the possibility of the trees attaining dimen- sions in such a high latitude — 69° and 70° — fully compara- ble with those of more southerly parts of the country. The nearer the sea the less the altitude of the trees, and the bet- ter the quality of the wood ; the farther north, the poorer the timber becomes. Birch, alder, and asp abound, the latter often attaining three feet in circumference : in many parts fires have made sad havoc among the trees. The shores on the west side of North Cape, though less covered with forests — which doubtless were destroyed in former times — enjoy a much warmer climate than those on the eastern side ; for, as has been seen, on Alten fjord, in the same latitude as the Yaranger, barley, rye, and fruits grow, while here these are THE HARBOR OF FASVIG. 101 not planted. The water of the sea is gradually getting colder, and the winds from the east are also bleaker. The popula- tion has very much increased of late years in this extreme north-eastern part of Norway, in spite of the barren soil, on account of the fisheries and easy communication. Two new parishes have been created in South Varanger. The popula- tion, which hardly numbered 100 at one time, has increased, according to the last census (1865), to 1171 individuals, com- prising 194 Northmen, 6S Nomad Lapps, 339 Lapp farmers, 539 farmers, mostly Finlanders, and 31 of mixed races. Two churches have been built; a doctor and lensmand have been appointed ; schools have been established. The adjoining coast, known as Russian Lapland, abounds in fish. There are many settlements, employing several thou- sand boats in the fisheries. A vast number of fish are caught, even by Norwegians ; but, as the men are not allowed to land, they often encounter violent storms with great loss of prop- erty and life. Pasvig, the last regular port and fishing-station on the Nor- wegian coast, takes its name from the Lapp word basse (holy) : probably the Pasvig Lapps, in former times, had here a place for sacrifices. It has an excellent harbor, nearly circular, sur- rounded, by rocks. The entrance is narrow, but it is said that it can be entered during all winds. The most eastern part of Norway is bounded by the Pasvig Piver, which flows into the sea opposite Vadsu, and by the Jakob Riv^er, A knowledge of this region now shows that for a certain distance eastward the coast is open all the year round. In regard to the ice-bound coast of Russia, I will sim- ply say, were she so inclined, that country could establish a harbor on her own possessions ; that the Kola fjord does not freeze ; that the sea remains open, as on the Norwegian coast, for a considerable distance, and forests grow on the banks of its rivers and lakes — facts which show that it is not necessary to conquer the northern part of Norway in order to have an open port all the year round. From Yadsu to Nyborg — a hamlet made up of a few scat- tered farms on the brow of a hill, belonging to fishing Lapps, VOL. II. M 1G2 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. at tlie inner end of tlie Varanger fjord — the distance by water is abont tliirtj-tive miles. On the shores are seen two or three fisliing settlements, a few Lapp gammer, and the church of Nassby. Several boats, each with two women as rowers, came to our steamer, while at times women alone were seen crossing the fjord. On the 25th of April I found myself at the head of the Yaranger fjord ; for a distance of about three miles the sea was frozen, and our steamer had to lie along-side the ice. Sleighs were in waiting to take the mails and passengers. In a pleasant white house, not far from the shore, lived the Norwegian lensmand, Brun, with his charming family, con- sisting of wife and two grown-up daughters : books and news- papers came by the weekly or semi-monthly mail, and, with a piano, enabled them to pass the time pleasantly in their soli- tary home, for they had to depend upon themselves for society. It was very late in the season, and the Laplanders and their reindeer had left. "If you had been here only a week before, you would have had no difficulty in going south," said the lensmand. I ought not to have been later than the 1st of April. "You must stay with me for a day or two, and I will see if any Lapps are still in the neighborhood and are will- ing to take you." IIow agreeable was the hospitality of that kind-hearted family, how cosy and comfortable was my bed- room, how luxurious was the feather-bed ! I appreciated all the more the luxuries of a civilized and genteel life after the roughing of the winter. ISTear Nyborg some Sea Lapps' dwellings are seen on the ridge of a hill. "We will enter a gamme — as the sod-houses of the Lapps are called — belonging to Matis (Mathias) Johnsen Laiti — a long, narrow, low house, built entirely of sod. It M'as divided into three rooms, the entrance being through a low wooden door into a centre room, in which were winter garments hung on poles, a pile of fire -wood, and a heap of sea -weed. In the room on the left, about twelve feet long and ten wide, the family lived. It was paved with flat slabs; in one corner was a bed made of small branches of birch, kept together by large logs. At the foot of the bed was a CURIOUS FOOD FOR CATTLE. 1G3 A STONE ANT) SOD O AMME. small cow, and in the opposite corner another, each about three feet in height. The wife was seated on the bed, dressed in a coarse kind of woollen chemise with long sleeves, woollen pantaloons, and Lapp shoes, wearing on her head one of the queer cask-like caps before described. Between the cow and tlie bed was a calf: three sheep and two small children com- pleted the family, the owner being absent. Everything was scrupulously clean, and there was a little gutter to receive the dirt of the cattle. The structure of the house was tent-like; there was a strong frame of poles supporting the turf, from the middle of which, under the opening for the smoke, were four poles to which was attached a huge iron pot full of sea- weed, covered by birch-bark. This sea-weed had been cooked for the cows ; I tasted it, and found it was not at all salt. The cattle in this part of the world have learned to eat horse- dung, raw fish, dry fish-heads boiled, sea-weed and grass, and even boiled lichens. The rest of the furniture consisted of a few kettles, a coffee-pot, a lamp, and a few chests. These sod- houses often last ten or twelve years, but require frequent re- pairs, and new layers of turf. M 2 164 TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. !Not far distant from Matis's gamme was a small farm belong- ing to Mikel Iversen, a well-to-do person. The bnilding was long and narrow, one part built of logs, the remainder of lay- ers of turf. In the wooden part was the parlor, kitchen, and bedroom all in one ; the roof was made of poles covered with birch -bark, over which was placed earth. The cattle here were kept bj themselves. Two cows, two little oxen, and eight sheep formed the wealth of the family. The master with the two oxen had gone for sea-weed ; but soon after my arrival he made his appearance with a small cart, having two old-fashioned wheels of solid wood, drawn by his two oxen — dwarfish and wretched-looking creatures. Near by was the farm of Ole Persen Maja. The dwelling- house was built entirely of logs, and reminded me very much of those belonging to poor Scandinavians in other parts of Sweden and Norway ; but inside it made some pretension to luxury and comfort. The little room had two wooden beds, a cast-iron stove, a clock, and three chairs; and here, also, as among the humbler dwellings we have just seen, everything was exceedingly clean. The wife wore the nsual coarse vad- mal gown, but had a close-fitting cap npon her head, and looked wonderfully like a man. Maja was considered very rich by his neighbors ; he owned a horse, with a special stable for him, and his four cows and sheep had also a building for themselves. Being unable to procure any reindeer, the obliging lensmand concluded that he would go with me part of the way, try to see some Lapps, and help me out of my dilemma. EXTENT OF COUNTRY. 165 CHAPTER XIII. Lapland. — Extent of the Country. — Swedish and Norwegian Lapland. — Character of the Country. — Moss Tracts. — Summer and Winter Wanderings. — The Life of the Mountain Lapp. — Population of Lapland. — Numbers of Eeindeer. — Size of Herds. — Honesty of the Laplander. — His Severe Training. — Hard Life. — Physical Structure of the Lapps. — Fine Climate of Lapland. — Diseases of the Country. — Long Life of some Lapps. — Food. — Contentment of the Lapps. Before proceeding on our journey southward, we will give a general outline of the country inhabited by Laplanders, and known under the name of " The Land of Lapps," which com- prises the northern part of Scandinavia ; these people are also found in the north of Finland, and in Russia to the most east- ern extremity of the peninsula of Kola, and as far as the White Sea. Russian Lapland has an extent of about 13,000 square miles; Swedish, 10,500; Finnish, 6,000; Norwegian, 3,500: in all, 33,000 square miles. Some parts of Russian Lapland are cov- ered with lai'ge forests of coniferous trees ; these occupy about 3,000,000 acres, while the hills and vallej's towards the north are chiefly clad with dwarfed birch, but there are also exten- sive tracts of tundra, or treeless desert. In Norway and Sweden the La^^ps are found as far south as 62° in the provinces of Herjedalen and Jemtland, and in Iledemarken and Trondhjem, but very few inhabit these two large Norwegian provinces. Going northward, their number increases steadily, and by far the greatest population is found in Norway in the amts or provinces of Tromso and Finmar- ken. The Russian Lapps, according to Friis, are not nomads in the sense that they roam around with herds of reindeer, for they own but few of these; still, although they live in houses of timber or earth, every family changes its dwelling-place three or four times a year. In the spring they go to their 166 THE LA^D OF THE MIDNIGHT SUX. summer quarters, which are by a lake or the sea ; some move asain in the middle of summer to other fisheries on rivers or lakes. In August they move to their fall stations, where, be- sides fishing, they also liunt reindeer, birds, martens, squirrels, otters, and bears. About Christmas they move into their win- ter homes, which generally are in small hamlets. Their mode of living prevents tliem from having many reindeer. These Laplanders call themselves Sabme or Same (plural, Samelats) ; by the Swedes they are called Lapp (plural, Lappar) ; by the Norwegians, erroneously, Fin (plural, Finner) ; and the Fiulanders are known by them as Kvaen (plural, Kvsener). The Laplander is unlike the Esquimaux, and I have found that they differ materially from the descriptions I have read of them ; though by many regarded as branches of the same Mongolian or Turanian stock, I think, with Retzius, that the Lapps and Esquimaux are of entirely different races — the for- mer being short-headed {hrachycephalic) and straight -jawed {orthognathic), while the Esquimaux are long-headed {dolicho- cephalic) and prominent-jawed {jjrognathic). Finland is called Saomi, and the people Suoinalaiset, by the Fiulanders. These two words bear a close resemblance to the Lapp words, and suggest people of the same origin. The two languages arc said to have some similarity; but a minor people, for obvi- ous reasons, usually adopt the language of the dominant race. Physically, at this day, they are unlike, the Finlander being far the taller, and in personal appearance more allied to the Scandinavian and Teutonic races, as well as their equal in in- telligence. But, whatever may be the different characteristics of all those northern people (which it is not the object of this work to consider), the traveller is now and then surprised at finding, when least expected, some of the same features among the Scandinavians, Germans, Scotch, and other Euro- peans — namely, high cheek-bones, nose retrousse, flat between the eyes, and face short and rounded — which show resem- blances to the Mongolian type. Swedish Lapland is divided into districts, named after the provinces where the Lapps are found. The country is ex- ceedingly well watered, rivers and lakes being found in every LAW AND OllDER OBSERVED. 1G7 direction ; swamps abound, and forests cover an area of over twenty million acres. From the eastern mountain range val- leys from 150 to 200 miles long descend to the sea; the hills which separate them average from 400 to GOO feet in height, and, with the lower ground, are covered with forests and swamps. Reindeer-moss is plentiful, and there during tiie winter the Swedish Laplanders retire. We have seen that in the extensive territory occupied by the Swedish and Norwegian Lapps law and order prevail, as in other parts of the land ; lawlessness and brigandage are un- known, the wildest and least inhabited districts being as safe as any other in this most honest land. All the Laplanders be- long to certain parishes, where they pay taxes and tithes, their children receive religious instruction, births and deaths are registered, and the number of reindeer they possess is known. The moss-tracts have to be carefully husbanded, not too much time being spent at one spot, while others must be avoided, to allow a crop to mature, i have been told that it takes from seven to ten years for it to grow again, and in some districts even longer than this. The healthy and growing moss has a greenish-white tinge, and is soft and somewhat spongy. When it ceases to develop it becomes dry. The tinest I saw was on the Palajoki. There are many mountain districts in Norway and Sweden, especially in the first country, where great herds of reindeer could be pastured in summer. Year after year will a family roam over the same tract as did their ancestors, here sleep- ing with the back resting against the same boulder, there un- der a huge rock pitching the tent, partly protected from the weather. The Fjeld Lapp's time is engaged in adding to his herd, to wdiicli lie and his family devote all their energies, for their welfare depends on the growth of the animals. It is difficult to ascertain exactly the increase or decrease of reindeer accord- ing to the districts; for the people often change, and there lias been of late years in the North a large emigration of Nor- wegian Lapps to the territory of Sweden, csj>ecially to Karesu- ando ; but, taken as a whole, the population and the reindeer 1G8 THE LAND OF THE MIDXIGUT SUN. arc increasing. There is a greater number in Norway than in Sweden, owing to tlie nnmber of stationary bonder (farm- ers), and Sea Lapps, which far outnumber the Nomads. According to tlie bite census, there are In Sweden (ISvO) 6,702 Lapl:inilers, with 220,800 reindeer; " Norway (ISCr)) 17,178 " '" 101,768 " Finland (1865) 615 " " 40,200 " " Russia (1859) 2,207 " " 4,200 Witli tliose that belong to farmers and others, I think we may safely say that the reindeer number about 400,000. The Sa- moides liave the largest and finest breeds, whicli are not num- bered among those of the Lapps. In Kautokeino tliere are Lapps who own 2000 reindeer ; in Sorsele, in Sweden, one is said, to own 5000, and others 1000 and 2000. Some of the Forest Lapps have 1000. In Lulea Lappmark there are herds of over 2000 ; in Finmarken of 5000, and some Lapps have owned as many as 10,000. A lierd of 2000 to 2500 is said to give about 200 to 250 calves yearly. Every owner has his own mark branded on tlie ears of all his reindeer, and no other person has a right to have the same, as this is the lawful proof of ownership ; otherwise, when sev^- eral herds are mingled in the mountains, the separation would be impossible. According to custom no one can make a new mark, but must buy that of an extinct herd ; if these are scarce, the price paid to the families that own them is often high ; the name of the purchaser and each mark have to be recorded in court, like those of any other owner and property. The tax paid is according to the pasture-land occupied. There are sometimes hard feelings between Laplanders and Norwegian settlers in the thrifty inhabited' districts of the fjords near the coast, especially in the province of Tromso, on account of the damage done by the reindeer to the meadows or crops. I was told by some Laplanders that on the Alten fjord the farmers upon whose grounds they have to pass by the fjords, in order to go to pasture, ask an extortionate price for the right of way. I hope the Storthing will see that this abuse is remedied if the complaint be true. CHEAT ENDURANCE OF THE LAPLANDERS. 169 The Laplander is so honest that his kata is often left with no one to take care of the food, coffee, sngar, garments, silver- ware, etc., and these are at the mercy of the first thief among them that comes along. But pilfering is very rare, and tlie tent is almost held sacred. Reindeer thieves are occasionally found, and they have to be guarded against ; these are gener- ally the Fisher Lapps, or the bonder who have settled down ; it is hard for them to resist the temptation to take from a herd which is left to itself. Once two men were recom- mended to me as guides by an official ; I learned at the same time that although one of them had been in prison for steal- ing reindeer, I could trust him. I went with him over the inhabited districts with perfect safety. I never have had a disagreement with any one of them in regard to pay or any- thing else. I have often been amnsed, on my return to the Norwegian coast, at the people wondering how I dared to go alone into the mountains among the Lapjis, and in more than one instance names of persons never heard from were given to me as a warning ; but the fears were groundless, as my ex- perience amply proves. The Laplander, by the severe training he undergoes from childhood, sleeping on the bare ground, or resting against a stone, suifering hunger, and being exposed to great changes in the weather, has very great powers of endurance. In sum- mer he has constantly to follow his herd, which is for the greater part of the day on the march, as they are not then obliged to dig to get to the moss. He is also compelled to go through swamps and bogs, or to cross patches of soft deep snow, to swim or pass rivers swollen by melted snow or the flow from glaciers, as I have frequently done : often hungry, and obliged to milk a reindeer for subsistence, when he comes to the kata he is generally overcome with fatigue, and, chang- ing his wet clotlics, falls into a sleej) brought on by sheer ex- haustion. Frequently he wanders over a tract of nearly one hundred miles, remaining three or four days in a district, then moving six or seven miles farther. In winter he travels over dreary wastes, during violent storms, suffering from hunger and cold. On the watch, niglit and day, for bears, wolves, 170 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. and gluttons, perhaps lie is suddenly awakened, after sleep- iiJiT an Lour, and summoned for the protection of his stock against enemies which may scatter the herd and reduce him to poverty. All this makes the Mountain Laplander one of the hardiest of men, and his physical structure shows at once that he is equal to the demands of his life. He is of short stature, compactly but slightly built, with strong limbs — his light weight allowing him to climb, jump, and run quickly. Consumption, cancer, chills and fever, and affections of the liver and kidneys, are unknown. The water is as pure as in granitic countries, and the drinking of sour milk prevents many complaints elsewhere common. But acute diseases are preva- lent — often brought on by the perspiration which comes when ascending steep mountains being suddenly checked by the piercing winds of the summit. I am surprised, after having been subjected to such exposure on the mountains of Scandi- navia year after year, that I have yet to know wdiat a rheu- matic pain is. I have seen Lapps use the fat coming out of cheese, which they keep before the fire, to rub on their sore spots and sprains. They are subject to measles, and some- times get small-pox from the sea-shore people. Hernia is not unfrequent, owing to their driving with the legs reversed and acting as a drag on their sleighs. Ophthalmia is quite preva- lent, on account of the cold winds and the glare of the snow ; in the spring great care has to be taken with the eyes, as the I'eflection of the sun is very bright in April, May, and the be- ginning of June; without blue or green goggles one easily becomes snow-blind. The men and women are active to a great age. Their life in the open air and constant wander- ing on foot preserves the elasticity of the muscles ; their simple habits, the keen, invigorating, dry air, and the pure water (which is without lime) all contribute to secure lon- gevity to those who have been able to pass the severe or- deal of childhood. Many attain very great age, some mure than a hundred years. "When I was in their country in 1873 there were Laplanders living who were born in tlie years 1773-1775. Although the Lap])s live chiefly on animal food, barley -fluur is almost always found in the kata, to be nous LABORS OF ISAAC OLSEX. 171 used for mush, unleavened bread, or blood-pudding. They often mix their milk with sorrel -grass {Rumcx). They are great drinkers of coffee, inveterate smokers and snuff-takers. The vice of drunkenness, once so prevalent, has now almost entirely disappeared at home ; but whenever they go to a town, and can procure spirituous liquors, they generally have a frolic for a day or two. In Norway the first Christian instruction among the Lap- landers began about 1610 ; in Sweden in 1606 ; even in far- away South Yaranger a school-master named Isaac Olsen, as early as 1703, and under great difficulties, converted the Lap- landers of that district. Happy, and contented with his lot in the world, endowed with a religious nature, which a barren and lonely land contributes to intensify, the Lapp believes in God, in his Bible, in the Lord Jesus Christ as the Son of God, and in a future life. From those dreary wastes his songs of praise and prayers are uttered with a faith which ceases only with his breath, and he departs rejoicing that he is going to the "better land." TUE I'ASVIG. lUK MOST -NOUIUEP^N UIVEIt IN tCUOPE. 172 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT ^UN. CHAPTER xiy. The DifPercnt Classes ol. Lapps. — The Mountain or Nomad Lapp. — The Sea Lapp. — DwelHngs of Sea Lapps. — Appearance and Dress of Sea Lapps. — The River Lapp. — His Mode of Living. — The Forest Lapp. — Dwelling of a Forest Lapp. — His Way of Life. — Fisher Lapps. — Habits of Fisher Lapps. — The Njalla. — Lapp Villages. The Laplanders may be divided into the following classes, according to their habitat and manner of life : 1. The Moun- tain or Nomad Lapps, who live upon the increase of their herds, and wander with them all the year round from pasture to past- ure, living in tents — these possess by far the largest number of reindeer ; 2. The Sea Lapps ; 3. The Forest Lapps ; 4. The River Lapps ; 5. The Fisher Lapps. All are descended from the Mountain or !Nomad Lapps. The Sea Lapps are met along the wild coast of Nordland and Finmarken, and are principally engaged in the cod-iish- eries. They are daring and good sailors, and many are em- ployed on the boats commanded by I^orwegians. Some own their own little craft ; and I have not unf requently seen such commanded by the husband, wdiile the wife and daughter, sis- ters, or hired women, formed the crew. The women are very hardy, and excellent sailors. The dwellings of the Sea Lapps are very primitive; they are called gamine (plural gammer), and are very peculiar; they are constructed of earth, and vary in shape ; many are round, and some are conical, like summer tents; the fireplace is in the centre, and the smoke finds its way out through the aperture above ; two or three of them are sometimes together : these belong to the poorest Sea Lapps. There are others of the shape of ordinary houses, built also en- tirely of turf, including the roof; walls of stone are occasion- ally placed outside, to protect the turf and make them more A SPA HE USE OF THE COMB. 173 durable. As many have no windows, the h'ght comes only from above ; when the fire is low the smoke-aperture is cover- ed with a frame. Houses more pretentious are made entirely of logs ; in the best districts they are not distinguishable from those of the ^Norwegian farmers. To the occupation of fishing these Lapps add that of farming. Almost every one owns two or three cows, a few sheep, goats, and reindeer; patches of potatoes and grass often surround the gamme. Their principal labor, however, is fishing, which, when successful, is remunerative. The women take care of the barn and the household, often repairing the nets, putting bait on the lines, and splitting and drying the fish. In win- ter both sexes are clad in reindeer skins with the hair in- side: their head-covering, like that of all the Lapps of the mountains, consists of an enormous square cap. The women wear an extraordinary head-dress, shaped somewhat like a cask ; its form is owing to a hollow piece of wood. The sum- mer garment of the women is a kind of long chemise, with sleeves to the wrist, often without a belt, made of woollen vadmal — very much the same material as is used for the tents of the Mountain Lapps ; the color is usually blackish or gray, and rags and patches are very common. They have generally long, shaggy, dark or deep chestnut hair, with a reddish tinge, which they comb only on Sunday, and on this and their dirty garments vermin are abundant. The men are dressed in like manner, and on the head a cap of bright wool is worn. The women are so accustomed to hard work and exposure that, after a certain age, their features become so coarse as to make it difiicult to distinguish a man from a woman ; when young, it is hard to tell a girl from a boy. One can judge of the standard of the Lapps by the num- ber of families who live in houses or gammer. In Alton, Skjfervo, and Lyngen parishes the Lapps are greatly mixed by intermarriage with Norwegians and Finns, the offspring forming a good class of peoi3le. Many of them are as intelli- gent as the Norwegians, and are a valuable addition to the population of that country. The table on the following page gives the number of houses and gammer in different localities. 174 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Tliere arc in Lyngen 264 log-houses to 13 gammer ; " Skjaji-vo 225 " " 5 " " IndreAlten 38 " " 6 " «' " Kautokeino 18 " " 6 " " " Trondenses 1 " " 23 " " Maaso 1 " " 97 " " " Lebesby 2 " " 50 " " " Hammerfest 9 " " 129 " By this it will be seen that the Lapps stand highest in the first parish, and lowest in the last named. KIVER LAPPS. Ascending the streams falling into the fjords, the River Lapps are found. These differ but little in their ways of liv- ing from the Sea Lapps, and many during the fishing-season go to sea; thej are found in Norway, especially on the banks of the Tana, Karasjok, and Alten rivers, and their affluents. In summer their occupation is salmon -catching, or serving as sailors. Almost qvqyj family has a small farm, on which are kept cattle, horses, sheep, and goats ; they cultivate the soil, and during the summer their reindeer are taken care of by the Mountain Lapps ; they extend hospitality to their moun- tain brethren, and take care of them in sickness. FOKEST LAPPS. Ascending the Lnle, Pite, Byske, Skellefte, Ume, and other rivers, or near the lakes, the Forest Lapps are met here and there in the woods. Many of their dwellings are peculiar in shape ; in some districts the lower part is square, built of three or four logs well joined together, the upper portion being pyramidal, of split trees covered with birch-bark, over which boards are put. A large flat stone is in the middle for fire, at the place where the cooking is done. There is the usual hole in the centre for the escape of smoke. In some the floor is covered with stone slabs, in others with young branches of the birch, and, as in the kata, skins are spread for the fam- ily to sleep upon. Near the dwellings are large enclosures where, at a certain season of the year, the reindeer are penned every day. Many of the Forest Lapps own extensive herds, A DWELLING-PLACE OF FOREST LAPPS. 175 which are milked two or three times a day. They have k&tas built from distance to distance, for they are obliged to move in order to pasture their herds. In Herjeadalen the reindeer are sometimes allowed to roam all summer; at the breeding-time, in October, they are col- lected again, and not let loose till spring. It is often neces- sary to make fires around the enclosures, that the smoke may drive away the swarms of mosquitoes which otherwise would set the herd frantic. In the southern part of Lapland the reindeer (both in Norway and Sweden) do not go to the sea. DWET.LlNG-PLAaE OP FOREST LAPPS HET«T!F.N 8EUTNEB AND JEKFOIAUE, IN ARVIPB.JAUB. TO THE RlGllT A LUOPTE (lARBEB) : BUTOUEKING OF BEINDEEK LN THE FOKEGKOUND. The several herds are frequently mixed, but are easily sep- arated when necessary, each owner knowing his own by dis- tinctive marks. The Forest Lapps make a great deal of cheese, and smoke reindeer meat and tongues, which are bought ex- tensively by Swedes and Norwegians. The Fishing Lapps are another class, derived, like the others, from the Nomad or Mountain Lapps, who, becoming impov- erislied, and unwilling to serve, prefer to live independently. By lonely lakes and on the banks of streams these Lapps build 176 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. DWELLING OF A FI8UING LAPP FAMILY. their habitations, surrounded generally by forests of fir, pine, or birch. A family may own several kator, and when the fishing ends at one place they go to another. During the summer they subsist on fish, and smoke and salt a large num- ber for winter use, and for sale. , Besides fishing, they are engaged in several other industries — mak- ing wooden vessels, baskets, shoes, etc. Often at a place where the pasture is good and fisli abun- dant, they improve the kata, get a cow or two and a few reindeer, and become settled Laplanders. These little places during the winter are the rendezvous of the Mountain Lapps. In the parish of Arvidsjaur, on the banks of Lake Jerfojaur (which forms the upper basin of the series of lakes of which Arvidsjaur is one) and of Byske River, which flows directly into the Bothnia above Skelleftea, is the picturesque dwelling-place of a Fisher Lapp, with two TUB NJALLA. THE MOUNTAIN LAPP'S STOREHOUSE. 177 larders on posts : to tlie left is a frame for drying fish, and in the foreground a hassja for drying hay. One sees now and theft in some districts queer little houses (the njalla) built of logs, supported by a single post, or some- times by four, so high above the ground that the winter snow will not cover them, nor can the wolves, foxes, or other wild animals get into them in summer. In these the Mountain Lapp keeps the stores which he does not wish to carry with him, such as cheese, skins, and pulverized milk. A ladder is necessary to reach the door, the njalla being used, in case of emergency, as a place of refuge for the night from storms. "We have also seen that Lapps liv^e together in small hamlets. These are always situated on the shores of rivers or lakes. The church, parsonage, and school-house are the prominent build- ings of the place. These Lapps are farmers. In many dis- tricts of Sweden their houses are of peculiar shape, and re- semble those of the Forest Lapps. The following engraving shows a street in the village of Arvidsjaur, Pite Lappmark. STREET IN THE VILLAGE OF AltVIPB.I AUU, PITF, LAl'PMABK. VOL. II. N lib TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUX. CIIAPTEE XY. Departure from Varanger Fjord. — On the Way Southward. — Little Snow by the Sea. — Meeting Laplanders. — No Reindeer. — Polmak. — The Tana River. — Good- bye to the Leusmand of Nyborg. — Reindeer Coming. — Leave Polmak. — Sirma. — Difficulties of Travelling in the Spring. — The Reindeer Weak. — Slow Speed. — A Dangerous Start. — Upsetting. — Travelling on the Tana. — Utsjoki. — Dirty Quar- ters on the Way. — Segelnaes. — The Karasjoki River. — Arrival at Karasjok. — Com- fortable Quarters. — Friends in Need. — No Reindeer to be Had. — The Karasjok Lapps. — Forests. — Variations of Temperature. — A Funeral. The journey from the Tana or Varanger fjord to the Gulf of Bothnia is comparative!}'' easy in winter. There are no steep mountains to cross ; the road is on the Tana Kiver, which flows in the valley, and is only a continuation of the fjord ; after the Glommen it is the largest river in Norway. The distance to Karasjok is about 142 miles, from there to Kautokeino 126 miles, from Kautokeino to Karesuando 63 miles, and from the latter place, by the route we have followed in summer, about 260 miles more — in all, from 590 to 600 miles. Along the Yaranger fjord the snow was only about three inches in depth. Among false popular notions is one that the farther north one goes the greater is the fall of snow. Ex- plorers who have tried to penetrate towards the pole have found less and less snow as they went in that direction. The Swedish explorer, Nordenskiold, and Dr. I. I. Hayes, whose charming work many of ns have read, state that in high lati- tudes the fall of one year was sixteen inclies, and another year two feet. The snowy tracts of Norway and Sweden are not the farthest north; the great snow-belt is, as I have said, be- tween hit. 61° and 61°. From Nyborg to Polmak, on the Tana River, the distance is about eighteen miles. We wended our way, after leaving tlie fjord, tlirough a wood chiefly of birch-trees, with here and tliei-e ARRIVAL AT VOLMAK. 179 a fine asp. There was no road, so we drove slowly. After a few miles the barking of dogs, which soon came in sight, warned ns of the approach of Lapps, who shortly made their appearance, with ten loaded kerres, en route for IS^yborg. They had been upon the mountains towards IS^ordkyn, and were going to join their people. The lensmand urged them to take me, promising good pay. They finally said they would stop at Polmak as they went south. The only way left for me was to pay well, for the tariff season was now over, and no reindeer were provided at any of the post-stations ; and coax- ing only could induce people to transport a traveller from one place to another. Farther on we came to a kata, whose herd had also left ; the inhabitants were waiting for those who were coming to carry the luggage and tent ; the promise of good pay did not tempt them to undertake the trip. Both sides of the river were lined with alluvial terraces showing the elevation of the land ; here and there through the birches we could see the gammer and log-houses of the River Lapps. After a drive of a few hours we came to Pol- mak, situated at the junction of the river of that name with the Tana. The source of this little stream is a small lake, and the scenery about it is quite picturesque. The hostess and her daughter could hardly find words to express their admiration of the river. " You ought to come here in sum- mer !" " How are the mosquitoes here in July ?" " Yery thick, very thick," was the answer ; " but come after the mos- quitoes are gone." No reindeer could be procured. A gray sky warned the lensmand to leave, and, as we parted, he said, " We shall soon have the pleasure of meeting you in Nyborg again." He was mistaken ; for early the next morning two of the Lapps we had met on our way, with three reindeer, were ready to convey me to Karasjok. The Tana above Polmak forms for quite a distance the boundary between Russian Finland and Norway. The river flows through a fine hilly country clad with birch, and, high- er up, with pines and fir; the dwellers on its shores are chiefly, if not altogether, River Lapps. Farms, generally two together, N 2 180 TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. and sometimes small hamlets, far apart, were seen from time to time. The route was on the frozen river. AVe stopped at Sirma, about twenty-one miles from Polmak, where men had to go into the mountains for fresh animals — ours being ex- hausted — promising to return the following day. At this time of the year — the end of the season — the reindeer were very feeble, and it was the worst time to travel with them ; they were shedding their coats and horns, and were lean and weak from their winter digging ; they felt the heat of the sun, and seven or eight miles an hour was all they could travel in the softening snow. The place contained four or five farms ; I was left at one where the wife could speak Norwegian. The accommodations were simple enough ; there was a small room for strangers, having an open fireplace, with reindeer skins for a mattress on the bed, the wife's woollen dresses for a pillow, and skeepskins for blankets ; but we found good coffee, rein- deer meat, butter, and cow's milk. The people were compara- tively rich : the farm had three buildings, and they owned three cows, an ox, several sheep, and a number of reindeer. Before my hostess was married she used to go on fishing-boats, and in that way learned to speak I^orwegian. At this time of the year many of the men were on the coast engaged in the fisheries, so the man of the house was not at home. The fresh reindeer, apparently not very well trained, ap- peared wild, and were harnessed with great care. Before reaching the river we had to pass through a birch wood. The young man who was to be my guide seemed distrustful even at the start ; to guard against accident or a wild runaway our three kerres were tied together. I was the first seated, hold- ing the rein of my courser. As the Laplander jumped in, and before he was fairly ready, the animal started at a furious speed, but the driver managed to hold on. The second one gained on the first, mine wanted to go faster than the other two, and the spare one, instead of keeping at the back of my sleigh, went ahead. We started, therefore, in the greatest disorder, bumping against the trees; from the rapidity of our course there was constant dano-er of beiuix dashed aofainst them. I immediately unfastened the rein around my wrist, so that if I AN ACCIDEXT REPEATED. 181 upset I should not be dragged against a rock or tree. As we came near the banks of the river the reindeer became still wilder, and tliej went at a very rapid pace. Suddenly the first vehicle touched the stump of a tree, and all the dexterity of my Lapp could not prevent him from upsetting just as we reached the base of the river-bank. Ills leg became entangled in the rein, and his kerres ran over him. The second beast made a turn to the left, and the sleigh containing the baggage struck the first one, Iiappily not touching the Laplander. Mine was coming double-quick against both ; the spare reindeer be- hind rushed ahead, turning mine the wrong way, and I went broadside against one of the kerres, when, as if by magic, the animals came to a stand-still. This took place in a great deal less time than I have taken to describe it, and was the only dangerous overturning I had experienced during the winter. My guide arose, angry at the mishap but not hurt. After this we were in no danger, as we were once more on the river, where there were no trees to be guarded against, and where, if our reindeer chose to go at rail- way speed, it was all the better for us. After taking breath and adjusting the harness we jumped into our kerres. After a few miles the animals showed signs of getting tired, for the sun was warm, and the snow had be- come quite soft. We tarried at Utsjoki, the next important hamlet from Sirma, on the Finnish side ; it has a church, situ- ated by the river of that name at its junction with the Tana : it belongs to Russian Finland. Here we found Finn farmers, and one large dwelling-house ; it was also the residence of a lensmand. The number of reindeer belonging to the district then amounted to over 40,000. In the afternoon it began to freeze, and after the snow had become crisp we started again. The track continued on the river, with short cuts overland to avoid the bends. Another accident happened here. As we were driving through a birch wood one of the kerres caught in a tree, and stopped suddenly, breaking the trace. The reindeer got loose and ran for some distance, and how to capture him was the question. My Laplander attempted to lasso him, but had to be exceedingly wary, for, as he approached, the animal 182 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. quickly moved off. He stepped slyly and softly, appearing not to go specially for the beast, and finally succeeded in lassoing and re-liarnessing liim. A short time after, as we went down the steep bank of the river at great speed, a sud- den curve threw me out of my sleigh with such violence that, notwithstanding the deep snow, I saw stars, and the granulated particles left their imprint on my forehead. The traveller has great trouble in finding tolerably clean quarters, and even those in which he is finally obliged to stay are clean only by comparison. Many of the River Lapps are terribly dirty, but sheer exhaustion compels the traveller to stop in their abodes. In fair winter weather he knows exactly where he can stop and rest, free from such discomfort. At midnight we came to a single house, where we found a man fast asleep, lying quite naked between two dirty black sheepskins. The filth of the place was such, and the vermin apparently so plentiful, that I could not remain. My Lapp, who was tired, did not seem to share my feelings, as he was accustomed to dirt, and wanted to stop. After a drive of about sixty miles from Sirma I reached Port, having been fif- teen hours on the way, including four hours at Utsjoki and an hour of rest, on the river, for the reindeer. The prin- cipal room here was quite a sight, and another picture of filth. The dirty beds were filled with old hay : in one were three children, in another an old and young woman, and in the third were the husband, wife, and a child. None had clothes on ; all were wrapped in unclean sheepskins. It was not easy to arouse the man, but at last, after a good deal of shaking, I suc- ceeded. He put on a long woollen shirt, went through the entry into another room, and lighted a fire in a stove. I was glad to see the wooden bedstead bare. He took from a corner a clean reindeer skin ; if this had ever contained vermin they had been frozen out of it. My companion offered to lie by my side, but I declined without offending him ; he thought we might be warmer if we slept together. Above Utsjoki, at a distance of perhaps seven miles, I had seen a solitary fir-tree, on the right bank of the river, in the forest of birch; I kiicw by that that the fir forests were not I BARKING DOGS JXXOUXCE OUIi ARBIVAL. 183 far distant. Farther on there were two groves, and others be- came more numerous on tlie left bank of the river. Farms were seen now and then along the way, till we came to the hamlet of Segelnses, the last before reaching Karasjok. Here the house was comfortable ; but the room for travellers pre- sented a curious sight : a great number of empty beer and wine bottles were on the floor, with the remains of wax can- dles, tin plates, cups and saucers, knives and forks ; a looking- glass and a few coarse colored pictures hung on the walls. Only an old woman and two young La23p girls were at home ; they were rather good-looking, though one was freckled, and both had dark-brown hair. This was a rich man's farm, for he owned a horse. He had gone into tlie forest to get the moss they had gathered during the summer for winter use. The old lady was very much delighted with a ring I gave her, and the girls with necklaces of large beads. A short distance above Segelnass the Karasjoki opens into the Tana. Ascending that river a few miles, we came to Ka- rasjok, lat. 69° 35', and within a few miles of the longitude of North Cape — the distance by road from the Tana fjord or jS^y- borg being about 120 miles. Our arrival was announced by the furious barking of the dogs, and twice I was nearly over- taken by one more fierce than the others. The people had al- ready retired, and not a soul was to be seen ; but the smoke curling over the chimneys showed that they were not all asleep. My Lapp stopped before a large, well-built two-story log-house, the winter home of Herr F , the merchant of the place. Nobody was at home, and there were no reindeer; Herr F , with his daughter, had gone the day before to the Alton fjord with twenty-five of them. He generally went on the 1st of April, and returned by the 1st of December ; but this year he had remained later than usual. A clerk was left in charge of the place, to whom I delivered the letter I had for his em- ployer. The hospitality of the house was extended to me, and I became the sole occupant of the large comfortable building, enjoying the luxury of an excellent feather-bed, which, how- ever disagreeable in summer, is very enjoyable in this climate in winter. 184 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Karasjok is entirely a Norwegian Lapp village, with about 125 inhabitants ; it derives its importance from being one of the chief centres for Nomad Lapps. It has a church with a parsonage, whose pastor remains only in the winter time, and a school that is open six months in the year; it is also the residence of a lensmand. The hamlet is composed of about twenty farms, having 20 horses, 60 cows, 12 oxen, over 150 sheep, and a large number of reindeer. From the south, horses are found as far north as Karesnando ; from the north southward, as far as Karasjok — thus leaving about sixty miles of the inland country where the animal is not raised. Like man, horses seem to thrive in every climate. Here they are used to draw timber, and are fed on hay ; but, for travelling, reindeer only are used. The tax from Karasjok to Bosekop was one specie dollar and one mark, or almost five kroner of the present money, for every reindeer. All the houses were built of logs. The people here live, as do the River Lapps, on the products of the dairy, by raising a few horses, fishing for salmon, and on the increase of their deer. It is the only place in Swedish or Norwegian Lapland where spirits are allowed to be sold, owing to an old patent-right owned by Ilerr F . As in all small places, the arrival of a stranger created some excitement. The school-master and the under-lensmand, both of them Lapps, called upon me. I was particularly pleased with the latter, named Johnsen, for his honesty and kindness : he had received a good common-school education. The lensmand, for whom I had a letter, was not at home ; but his wife received me with true Norwegian kindness, and insisted that I should come and take my meals at her house. The plain log-house — some of the timbers forming the walls measured sixteen inches in diameter, and were from the sur- rounding forests — was a pattern of cleanliness, and, with that of the merchant, a shining example to the dirty population. In the parlor windows carnations and roses were in full bloom, and, as it were, looking down through the panes of glass at the snow, and in one corner of the room stood a piano. A family of tidy young children made the mistress forget her isolation. I I :, km I up:!'' i ' .._ ' ■HwW '7'«ii9m Fin FORESTS OWNED BY GOVERNMENT. 185 To the Lapps the spring liad come, and they were all dressed in their long woollen vadmal costumes, the women wearing no belts at home, and thus appearing as if they wore long night- gowns. The Karasjok Lapps, and those in their vicinity, are remarkable for their fine physique, and are the tallest among this strange people ; the school-master was probably six feet high : the women also are tall and strongly built ; they have high cheek-bones ; few are fair, and most have dark hair ; their eyes are generally gray or light-green, but numbers have dark eyes : blue eyes and fair hair are rare. Many of them are of mixed blood, and have the characteristics of the predominant race. The men wore square caps of bright red or blue flan- nel, lined with eider-down ; the women put a wooden frame- work in their caps which make them appear odd. The sum- mer dresses are generally blue ; some wear white, with bright colored bands. There were remarkably fine forests of fir on the banks of the Karasjok and on the Tana, some of the trees reaching eighteen to twenty inches in diameter ; they grow on the alluvial ter- races, gradually disappearing as the land rises, and reappearing on the other side of the slope towards Karesuando. Once cut, they do not grow again, as farther south, and hardly any young trees were to be seen ; under favorable circumstances two to three hundred years are required for their full growth. The country at large is covered by glacial gravel, the bottom of the river-courses and valleys with stratified materials, in some places fine sand, in others with coarse gravel. We have before said that gold is found in these regions, but no attempt has been made to utilize the discovery. The forests here belong to the government, and special permission must be obtained to fell them, the trees to be cut being marked by the lens- mand, and the people pay so much per tree. The regulations are so strict that the places for cutting are indicated, and even those to be used for fuel are marked every year. The summer is too short for the growth of cereals. The climate of Karasjok is warm in summer and exceedingly cold in win- ter, the thermometer falling sometimes to 45° and 48° below zero. At this time of the year, in these high latitudes, the 186 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. daily variations of temperature are very great. On the 29th and 30th of April at Sirma the thermometer stood at 35° for several consecutive hours during the day ; at ten p.m. it had fallen to 1° below zero — a difference of 36°. On May 2d the heat of the sun on a thermometer perfectly protected from the wind sent the mercury up to 86°, while it stood at 42° in the shade, and at night fell to 8°. These great changes were scarcely felt, as there was no wind, and the cold increased gradually and almost imperceptibly. The sun was now so hot that travelling was impossible dur- ing the day, and had to be done at night. At five in the afternoon the snow would begin to freeze ; then the reindeer could travel and the kerres would glide easily. Here at Ka- rasjok, on the 2d of May, the twilight w^as not so bright as at Vardo on the 24th of April, it being farther south. The darkest part of the night was a little after eleven o'clock, but even then one could see to read. Jupiter and Venus were seen till about half-past one, but no other stars were visible. One afternoon, just before sunset, a funeral cortege passed through Karasjok. A Laplander, who had come from a long distance, was leading a kerres, to which was attached a decked one — the coffin — and at some distance behind a young Lapp woman followed. These two people came from Gjnsjavre, a farm about sixty-three miles distant, to bury an old man, who had died at the very ripe age of ninety-six. The next morning I followed the procession to the grave; three extra men, having cords and a saw, with the man and woman, com- posed the party. The winters are so severe in Lapland, and in many parts of Scandinavia, that the ground is frozen to a considerable depth, and is as hard as a rock ; in the autumn, therefore, a deep common grave is dug, in which the dead are deposited until the spring, when tliey are removed to their re- spective family burial-places. As the cemetery was near by we walked slowly, talking until we came to the gate. The tops only of three wooden crosses could be seen above the snow; on one of these was written, in large coarse letters, M. I. D., which probably meant Marit, Ivor's daughter. The planks that covered tlic pit, to prevent the snow from filling it, A BURIAL. 187 had been removed, and at the bottom were seen four coffins; these were decked kerres, the extremities of wliich had been sawed off. They also sawed the ends off the one we had brought, lowered it down, and replaced the boards over the grave ; but not before each of us had thrown a little earth on the coffin, and engaged in silent prayer. 188 I'UE LJMJ OF THE MIDyiGUT .•SUN. CHAPTER XVI. Out of a Dilemma. — Reindeer procured. — Nils Piersen Gjnsjavre. — Leave Karas- jok. — An Unruly Reindeer. — Travelling on the Karasjoki. — Assebagli. — Sleep on the Snow. — Difficult Driving. — Gjusjavre. — Nils's Hospitality. — Good-bye to Gjusjavre. — A Warm Sun. — Deep Snow. — Birch-trees in Bloom. — Lapps' En- campments. — An Interesting Conversation. — Lapps in the United States. — The Alten River. — Birki. — Kautokeino in Winter. — The Place crowded. — Moving Season. — Toilet of Baby Lapps. — Herds of Reindeer. — A Fine Sight. — Reindeer and Lapps. — Departure from Kautokeino. — Game on the Way. — Suajiirvi. — Arrival at and Departure from Karesuando. — A Hearty Welcome at Kuttaincn. — Songamuodka. — An Honest Fellow. — Arrival at Pajala. — The First Rain of the Year. Nils Piersen Gjusjavre, who had come with the funeral party, had agreed to take me to Kautokeino. Ilerr F 's clerk was as delighted at my getting out of my dilemma as if he was to undertake the journey himself. " I know the man," said lie, " and he is reliable. The price, ten dollars, is dear ; but when he reaches his farm he will be obliged to send far to find the reindeer." I knew that I should have to pay dearly all the way, as each would tell how much he had re- ceived; moreover, the season of the tariff had passed, and travelling had become bad, and had to be done at night ; why should they not try to make a good bargain, so long as it did not amount to extortion ? The distance to Bosekop is about 130 miles ; and the fare, during the post season, one dollar, and one krona for every three reindeer. There are three fjeldstuer (houses of refuge), two of which are inhabited. The distance to Kautokeino is about the same. The lensmand's wife would not let me go without two or three loaves of bread she had baked specially for me ; and be- fore getting into my pulka insisted that I should take a cup of chocolate. Nils Piersen was tall, but not full blooded ; J AN UNRULY EEINDEEB. 189 there was something so pleasant about his face tliat I liked liini at once. His maid, who had accompanied him, was a good specimen of the Mountain Lapp — small, wiiy, and strong. The reindeer M^hicli Kils drove w'as a powerful and magnifi- cent animal with superb horns, but it had been lately trained, and was still wild and unruly. The one the girl had and mine were also splendid creatures, and well broken to the liarness. My luggage and the girl went in the same kerres ; we had no spare animal. Nils led ; his reindeer started wildly and at great speed, but would not follow the furrowed track. Two or three times he made a sudden turn back, and would then run across the river, and Nils had to get out and lead him for awhile. The wild course of the leader made our deer unruly, and as we could not proceed in that way, w^e decided to let the girl lead. "We attached our kerres to each other, that of Nils being the last; his reindeer would not follow, but went ahead, knocking my kerres against the first one, the force of the contact often threatening to throw me over. Once or twice the legs of the deer came into my sleigh. I in- sisted on having the order changed, each vehicle being free. The unruly brute was harnessed to the girl's kerres, and Nils was to lead her reindeer. This way was no more successful, for the girl could not manage the creature, not being strong enough, and she was thrown over several times. Nils, who had now rested, took him in hand again, and finally his wild capers and the powerful hold of his driver tired him out, and he became manageable. We glided swiftly over the frozen-crusted snow, our course being along a well-beaten track on the Karasjoki River; the banks were flanked with terraces, and the hills were clad with leafless birch and large fir trees. A few^ miles higher up the river was Assebagli, with its numerous haj^- houses. Here many Lapps from the hamlet of Karasjok come in summer, on account of the fine hay which is kept for the horses. A stream, the outlet of the small lake Cejnojavre," flowed into the river at this point. Farther up we left the Karasjoki * Javre or jdrvi. 100 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. and ascended tlie Jesjoki, another of its affluents. The fir- trees liad become scarcer, and loolvcd like sentinels watching over the country and the forest of birches whicli tliej over- hung. We stopped and allowed the animals to graze, making them fast by long cords, as we were afraid they would wander from the place in search of moss. Most of the reindeer belonging to Lapps will not eat moss that has been gathered, as they have not been trained to it. Nils and the girl were exhaust- ed, for they had hardly slept for three days. I covered my face with a mask and fell fast asleep on the snow, resting two or three hours. No more furrows were seen, though now and then we could perceive the traces which Nils and his funeral cortege had made on their way to Karasjok. At times our track was near the icy banks of the river, and great care was necessary to pre- vent our sleighs from sliding and going down in the deep cracks of the ice, under which we could hear the water rush- ing. The numerous boulders in the stream and the rapids made the ice so uneven that we could not follow the river- bed. After a few miles we entered the Gjusjavre, a narrow lake of which the river is the outlet, on whose banks was the farm of Nils Piersen ; it is about sixtj^-three miles from Karas- jok, and we had been seventeen hours on the way. The coun- try is undulating, and the scenery bleak and dismal ; the snow was several feet deep, and over it appeared the leafless birches, among whose branches the wind sounded mournfully, and be- yond the frozen lake the farm looked very lonely. It was snowing when we arrived, but the few flakes that fell were fine and light, for it was 5° below zero. There were fourteen old, weather-beaten, queer log-houses in the place, some supported by pillars several feet high, and all with earth-covered roofs. Several of them belonged to the Lapps, and were used as storehouses. Near the farm-house was the little Vuodasjoki. The dwelling-house was quite com- fortable, composed of two good-sized rooms, divided by a large hall, where firewood, shoes, fur garments, and other clothing were hung or laid at random. In one room the familv and I HEALTHY IXHABITAXTS AXD LARGE FAMILIES. 191 fi-iends lived, and it presented a lively appearance all day long. A bright fire was burning in the open fireplace under a large kettle full of reindeer meat. Lapps were seated on the floor, dressed in fur and skins, some eating, others smoking. At night the guests slept anywhere on the floor. Nils's wife was much older than himself, and apparently a half-breed between a Lapp and a Finn ; he had also a tall, grown-up daughter, rather handsome ; both were dressed in a loose, coarse, blue woollen garment of vadmal, described be- fore. A woman nearly ninety years old, the widow of the man who had been buried, was living with the family. I was under the impression, before visiting this part of the country, that the long-continuous daylight or dark short days must degenerate man ; I found the contrary ; the farther north I travelled in ISTorway or Sweden the more healthy seemed the people, the larger the families, and the greater the number of births according to the population ; these reaching in Tromso thirty -four and one -tenth, and in Finmarken thirty -six and three-tenths yearly, for every thousand inhabitants. It is not uncommon to see a family of fifteen and eighteen children by one wife, and sometimes, though rarely, twenty to twenty -four. Fish and milk are evidently good diet for the increase of the human race. I met many people living to a great age, show- ing them to be strong men and women. On ray arrival the mother and daughter made a general sweeping of the house, and the guest-room was thoroughly cleansed ; the floor and the windows were also washed, the ar- ticles scattered about were put in their places, fresh reindeer skins from the storehouses and new hay were put on the bed, snowy white sheepskins were spread over it, and numerous nets hanging about were put in a pile in the corner. A very hot fire was kept up in the stove in order to dry the floor quickly. Four cows, ten sheep, an ox, and one calf composed the live-stock of the farm ; Nils also possessed a herd of rein- deer. Besides, he had a small store, and sold to the Lapps flour, coffee, sugar, salt, tobacco, and matches, and bought from them skins, shoes, and gloves. He was a wide-awake and ener- getic man. " There is good salmon-fishing and fine shooting 192 THE LAND OF THE MIDXIGHT SUN. here," said he ; " there are plenty of ptarmigan, and I wish yon would come and stay with me." The clear water of the lake, the pretty little river Vuodas- joki, the grassy slopes, the beautiful foliage of the birches, and the long undulating hills were no doubt picturesque, but the mosquitoes would destroy all comfort in the summer, I could not drink sufficient milk or coffee, or eat reindeer meat, cheese, or butter enough to please this good-hearted, generous fellow. The Lapp visitors also had a lively time, for Nils had brought with him from Karasjok some spirits, and after a glass or two they seemed pleased W'ith themselves and all the world. This farm was a rendezvous for the Mountain Lapps, who liked to come and rest and smoke for a few days; they would bring their food with them, and at night sleep on the floor. Their wives and children would also come, and were sure to be welcomed at the farm. I did not wonder that Nils had a host of friends. On the 4th of May I left Gjusjavre with Nils. The day was cloudy, the thermometer standing at 15° above zero, con- sequently a capital day for travelling. The dogs followed us in spite of the vociferous shouts of recall. Our course at first was on the Yuodasjoki, where the animals went very fast; then, leaving the stream, we skirted the Lappojavre, about 1200 feet above the sea -level, the ascent having been very gentle from the fjord. The snow was perforated everywhere with deep holes which the reindeer had made to get at the moss. The surface looked as if it had been roughly ploughed, the holes having been partly refilled by the wind. The heat of the sun had begun to tell on vegetation in spite of the depth of the snow, which was in that district about five or six feet, and yet the birches were in full blossom. We had reached the top of the plateau dividing the water- shed of the Alten and the Tana rivers. Tlie Laplanders were M-andering with their herds, walking on snow-shoes, the dogs keeping the reindeer together: they were moving to new pasture-grounds, where the snow had least depth, or where it had been partly blown away. In one place we met a family on the march, some of the INTERESTED IN MY HOST'S STORY. 193 women carrying their babies on their backs in tlie hdtkem (cradle), and leading the luggage animal at the same time; then a family composed of an old man, three ^vomen, and sev- eral children, who had recently arrived, and had just put up their tent. Farther on I came to another encampment. The reindeer that had been drawing the luggage had been unhar- nessed, the children were walking around on their snow-slioes after juniper and dwarf birch for fuel, and near by was a large herd of deer, almost all of which were lying in the snow. They had come a long distance, and were evidently too tired to begin digging for moss. The dogs were crouching by the fire, apparently exhausted. We were made welcome in the tent, and then coffee, which was clarified with dry fish -skin, and milk were immediately served, and the silver spoons were taken out of a little bag. I was astonished, as the milking- season had not jQt come; The woman remarked that this was cow's milk, which her mother, living in Kautokeino, had given her the day before. " So your mother is not a Mountain Lapp," said I. " No," she replied ; " but I have married a Mountain Lapp, and I have to follow the reindeer ; but I often go to Kautokeino to see my people. I have a sister in America," said she. I thought I did not understand well. " Yes," said she again, " I have a sister in Chicago ; her name is Ella. She married a man from Tromso, and they have emigrated to Chicago. My mother will give you her address when you go to Kautokeino." I was much interested in the statement. While she talked she was busy washing the cups and spoons with water from snow which had been melted in an iron pot over the fire. After- wards she took some sugar from a little chest for my especial use, cracked it with her teeth, and filled the cup to overflow- ing; this they always do, for they dislike to appear stingy. As I left she said, " Do not forget to go and see my sister, and tell her that we are all well, and that God is kind to us. God bless her ! is often our prayer." I saw her sister in Chicago in the winter of 1878. JSTo one' would ever think her to be a Lapp ; her comely dress, her black eyes, dai'k hair, and high cheek-bones did not show it. VOL. II. o 1<>-1: THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN, Iler husband was a tailor, and they lived humbly but com- fortablj, and the piety of her northern home had followed her to her new one. Several Finmarken Laplanders have mi- grated to America, where they call themselves Norwegians. Some have become rich ; one, especially, who lives in a brown- stone house, and has a large store. Many of the Lapps are well educated, and some are merchants and teachers in Nor- way ; they are very intelligent and successful in business, and are much respected by the Norwegians. Coming to the steep hills which led to the river, Nils stop- ped and tied our kerres together, with two of the reindeer be- hind to act as a drag. lie gave me a short stick, the end of which I was to force into the snow, to steer by. Everything being ready he jumped into his kerres, with his legs out be- hind, and off we started at great speed. It would have been impossible to go directly down, for the snow was smooth and crusted, and the kerres would have run upon the legs of the reindeer ; we therefore descended in zigzag, I expecting at every sharp turn to be thrown out. We stopped at a farm called Birki, on the left bank of the river, having travelled from Gjusjavre, nearly ninety -four English miles. The farm was composed of four buildings. The dwelling-house was low and built of logs, with a roof heavily covered with earth. The room was about nine or ten feet long and seven or eight wide ; a rough chimney in one corner; a bed and a wooden chest to sit upon formed the fur- niture. The annex was built of sod, and in the entry were wood, skins, and nets, while the other room was practically empty. Another house was built entirely of turf, and con- sisted of three rooms; one room contained a large quantity of moss for the cattle and reindeer, the central room was empty, and in the third Avere three cows, a calf, and five sheep ; a huge kettle, in which moss was softening for the cows, hung beneath a large aperture in the roof. Two little log-houses, supported on wooden pillars, were the storehouses, and con- tained the flour, salt-fish, skins, clothing, and the w^orldly goods of the family. The mother and daughter fished in the river, mowed the hay, collected their winter moss, went after wood. 2I0riXG-DAY IN LAPLAND. 195 and worked as hard as any man ; a faithful dog was their con- stant companion and protector. It was late when we reached Kautokeino, and though it was the 7tli of May the twilight was dimmer than at Yardo twelve days before. 1 did not recognize the Kautokeino of summer in the winter hamlet. I could not have come at a better season of the year; a week sooner or later would have been inopportune for my purpose. The beginning of May here is the moving season of the Laplanders. They were leaving their winter pasture-grounds, in the low lands by the rivers and woods, and were on their way to the higher lands and summer pastures near the fjords. It was important that they should leave before the thawing of the snow which floods the lower lands. Over sixty-five thousand reindeer are in the province of Finmarken alone. Many reindeer passed before the hamlet. The sight of a large number moving on the vast snow-clad and trackless hills is very fine, especially when several herds are following each other. In the distance I often mistook them for black patches made by the tops of the birch-trees buried in the snow, and was undeceived only by discovering that the dark masses were moving forward. From the bluff overlooking the river, and 920 feet above the sea, I could see the Lapp girls and the men on snow-shoes urging on the herds, while the dogs brought the stragglers into the ranks, the mass gradually advancing till it appeared in the twilight like a black cloud on the horizon. The hamlet was full of life. In summer, as we have seen, no one is at home. Every house was full of Laplanders, coming to see their friends and relatives, or to leave what they did not wish, to transport, and to buy flour, coffee, sugar, etc. They slept as usual on the flooi*, on skins : the houses at that time being very full, were particularly dirty, and could not be cleaned till the crowd had left. In each room half a score of people had quartered themselves with the family, where they cooked their meat and fish, the bones and refuse of which were often thrown on the floor ; all were either smokinn^ or snuffing (for they are great snuff-takers), o 2 190 THE LAND OF TUB MIDNIGHT SUN. singing, playing cards, laughing, or talking. The welcome to their friends was hearty, because several months would elapse before they would meet again. On such visits the guests bring their own provisions. The hospitality of the host is unbounded concerning lodgings ; he generally receives a large piece of reindeer meat, or a pair of gloves or shoes, wlien a friend goes away. During his stay the guest treats liis host and family to coffee, and they return the compliment with the same beverage; when they are very good friends, the wife will bake bread for them: the principal food is rein- deer meat, but bread, butter, and cheese are also used. The amount of coffee drank by the Laplanders is very great, the coffee -kettle being, constantly on the fire. The great bustle in Kautokeino begins at Easter, and continues till the 10th or middle of May. It always annised me to see the Lapp babies in their katkem or komse. These are made of a single piece of wood, and are LAPP OEADLB. about two and a half feet long by fifteen or eighteen inches wide, and are slung around the mother's shoulders, who often endures fearful storms in her winter wanderings. In cold weather an extra skin is thrown over it. The infants are kept in these cradles most of the time till they begin to walk. A LAPP NURSERY. 197 The Lapp babies were kept very clean, each being thor- oughly washed every day. Entering one of the houses, I saw a youngster lying on a skin on the floor, crying furiously. His mother, a tall, rather handsome woman, with dark chestnut hair and deep blue eyes, was standing by his side, and making preparation for the little fellow's toilet before putting him to sleep in his cradle. The mother had before her a large wood- en vase filled with warm water, in which she was dipping her hand to test its warmth, occasionally adding some that w^as cold. When all was ready she undressed the child, and, put- ting him in a long oval wooden basin or wash-tub, spread on it a cotton sheet ; she then laid him in the sheet, the sturdy fellow yelling lustily all the time, when she sprinkled water over him, which acted like a charm, and he stopped crying at once ; she washed him all over with her hand, and then rubbed him dry very gently. The cradle was covered at the bottom with line, soft, well-dried lichens, over which a little cotton sheet was spread. The babe, stark naked, was laid in, the sheet turned down, with a coarse piece of vadmal and sheepskin over it ; the whole w^as made fast by a cord laced through holes on each side of the cradle. This process did not entirely suit him, and he kept on crying till all was fin- ished, and he was quieted by being nursed. Every day in summer the child went through the same process, which kept it free from vermin. Late in April and early in May is the reindeers' calving season ; the period of gestation is thirty-three weeks: the lit- tle ones are either carried or put into a sleigh. When the reindeer cows call for their young they utter a peculiar grunt, which is answered by the calves. Many of the animals had already dropped their horns. The large ones resembled those of stags, but they are smaller : the reindeer is clumsier than the deer, with stouter limbs, shorter head, and a larger and wider muzzle, more like that of a cow; the hoofs are broader and much larger. The hair is gray, very coarse and thick, especially in winter, and sometimes two inches in length ; the color is much darker on the back, and almost white under the belly; the young are lighter-hued than the adults. Tlie color 198 THE LAND OF THE MIDXIGUT SUX. often varies considerably among different Lerds, and frequent- \y by this the ownership can be known. The reindeer are never housed, for they like cold weather and snow. Food is never given them, and they will not touch the moss that has been gathered, unless brought up to do so. NOBWEGIAN L' They often will nCo even raise their heads as you approach them, ancl remain quiet when the Lapps pitch their tents, Tis we have seen. Some years prove unfavorable to their in- crease on account of the amount of snow, Avhich prevents them from digging for food ; the herd then becomes weak and ema- ciated, and many die. The spring is also a bad time for them ; the snow melts during the day and a thick crust forms at SPEED OF EEIXDEER. 109 night, so that their feet break through, causing lameness and disease. The horns of the males, which often weigh forty pounds, attain the full size at the age of live or six years, those of the cow at about four years. The time of dropping the liorns in a herd varies from March to May ; in the adult ani- mal they attain their full size in September or at the begin- ning of October. After the age of eight years the branches gradually drop off. The shoulder-blades appear a little high, occasioning a slight hump or protuberance. Without the rein- deer the Laplander could not exist in those northern regions : it is his horse, his beast of burden, his food, his clothing, his shoes, and his gloves. Domestic reindeer are a curious admixture of wildness and tameness. In some respects they are greatly superior to other cattle ; in a herd they ai'e very easily managed ; they usually keep close together, and in the winter season remain where they have been left to feed. When on the march, with the lielp of dogs, they go in a solid mass, and a herd does not scat- ter unless wolves are after them ; but in summer they often wander a long distance when left by themselves, as is often the case. When harnessed they become uneasy and distrustful, and great caution has to be taken not to startle them. Often trained reindeer, like horses, become refractory or vicious and very difficult to manage, and then the Lapp shows his skill. In rutting time the meeting of two herds is very imposing, the bulls of each herd often advancing to charge each other. The speed of the reindeer varies very much according to the time of the year, October, November, and December being the months in which they are fleetest, as then they are fresh f i-om their summer pasture ; the cold weather strengthens them, and they are not exhausted from digging the snow, not yet very deep, to procure their food. The rapidity of their gait de- pends much on the state of the surface. If this is well packed or crusted, and if previous furrows have been made, they go very fast. Much depends, too, upon the distance, and whether the country is hilly or not, with a long range of slopes. On the rivers, over well-packed snow and a good track, the ani- mals can go twelve or fifteen miles the first hour, and down a 200 THE LAND OF THE MWXIGHT SUX. long mountain slope twenty miles, and even more. They can travel five or six hours without stopping; the first hour rap- idly, the second more slowly, and towards the fifth or sixth quite slowly, for by that time they require rest and food. Early in the winter, when they are in good condition, one can travel with a swift reindeer one hundred and fifty miles in a day, where the country is not very hilly and the way good, and easily enough one hundred miles ; the colder the weather the greater is the speed : seventy or eighty miles is ^a good average, but they were slow at the season of which I write. From Kautokeino to Karesuando the country I had crossed in summer was left to the eastward. Time was so precious that I did not dare to go and see old Adam Triumf, and Kris- tina his wife; besides, Henrik Pintha, my guide, was in a hur- ry, for he knew that no time should be lost. We crossed the plateau dividing the waters of the Alton from those of the Muonio, the hills being sparsely clad with birch ; and again, as in the summer, we passed over that part of Finland which is wedged between Norway and Sweden. "We came across hun- dreds of ptarmigan on the route; they were losing their white feathers and turning gray, as also w^ere the hares. The Lapp is naturally a hunter, and from his youth knows how to handle a gun. Often after a heavy fall of snow he pursues the wolf on his snow-shoes and overtakes it, as the animal cannot run fast through the soft mass, and it is either shot, speared, or clubbed. In the North are numerous foxes, of which there are several varieties — the red, the white, the blue, and the black ; the latter becomes tipped with white, and is then commonly known as the silver fox, while the blue becomes white in winter. The bears are superb, and vary in the color of their fur, some being black, but generally of dif- ferent shades of brown. Birds of prey are not uncommon — among them the celebrated hunting falcon {Falco gyrfalcd)', this bird is very rare ; but the finest of all is the royal eagle {Aquila chrysaetos). There are several varieties of owls, in- cluding the snow-owl (Strix nyctea). The Swedish statistics for the province of Norbotten alone show that during ten years the government paid a premium on 257 bears, 437 SHOOTING PTARMIGAN. 201 wolves, and 787 gluttons. Tliese wild animals are quite com- mon in Norway. There had been killed over 5000 reindeer, and a large number of cows and sheep. Our reindeer were not in the least afraid of guns, remaining perfectly still wliile the birds were shot from our kerres. The air was so rarefied, and the firing of our pieces made so little noise, that I thought they had been scantily loaded, until I saw the game fired at, a good distance off, fall dead. The birds were so little frightened that they would allow us to approach to within a few yards of them. The number of ptarmigan within the arctic circle is enormous ; in Kautokeino alone the Lapps often trap and carry to the coast over ten thousand. When the sun began to thaw the snow we stopped at one of the lonely farms found in these northern wastes, on the banks of a small lake called Suajiirvi, and bought a few ermines that had been trapped the night before. As we descended the slopes towards the Muonio fir-trees once more made their ap- pearance. We crossed the river, and after a journey of twenty- four hours without sleep we reached Karesuando. On the 10th of May I left Karesuando for the south. The weather was very stormy, snow falling heavily. My pesh, or fur dress, too warm the day previous, was comfortable now. Large herds of reindeer were met on the Swedish side, and now and then Laplanders with their baggage. Like the men the women walked, some carrying babies, who were carefully protected from the cold. These were the last Laplanders I was to see on this winter trip. I had already met over G0,000 reindeer ; in a short time they would be unable to draw sledges, and the luggage would have to be carried as the en- graving (from a photograph) represents, and the animals led in the manner I iiave described in the first volume (pages 131, 132). In the midst of the storm I reached Kuttainen. I had to stop at the farm of good Ephraim Person, who had helped me so much on the journey across the mountains from Karesuando to Norway. The reader may remember how he cared for me then — how he deprived himself of his own bear-skin for my sake, for he had an idea that I suffered in that great storm. 1 202 THE LAND UF THE MIDXIGIIT STX. had promised to make him a visit on my return, and I conld not pass the noble fellow's home without saying farewell. The welcome was hearty, and nothing was too good for me. The hamlet was composed of ten or twelve farms, Math about eighty head of cattle, six horses, and a large number of sheep. KEINDEEK AND PACK, WITU LAP!' DUIVER. The ice cracks and breaks were already numerons, and in many places the river was nnsafe, though the snow was still deep on the surface. The sun was warm, and melted the upper crust, and the w\ater filtered through. Numerous detours had to be made to avoid the dangerous places. Ephraim's horse often floundered in the soft mass, though at night the ther- mometer stood at 22°. As it now became hazardous to travel with a horse, Ephraim and I had to part. I stopped at Songamnodka, where fortunately the farmer had reindeer at home. Here I had still another illustration of the great honesty of the people. More than an honr after I left the farm the next morning I heard loud shouts behind, and saw a man coming towards us as fast as he could on snow- shoes ; he was in a dripping perspiration, for the surface was in a condition to make walking very fatiguing. lie brought APmOACH OF SUMMER. 203 me my gold watch and chain, wliich I had left under my pil- low ; the honest fellow had come eight or ten miles to over- take me. I had some difficulty in making him accept a small sum of money for his trouble, and I succeeded only by show- ing that I paid him for his loss of time, and not because he returned what did not belong to him. I journeyed south as far as I could, fearing every day the breaking of the ice on the river. We had for a short time stopped wearing our winter shoes, they being only good for cold dry weather, when the surface is crisp, otherwise the skin becomes wet and soft. The summer foot -covering is made of leather prepared against moisture, and is of the same shape as the others, having a band to fasten above the ankle. On the ITtli of May I crossed the Torne, and breathed freely when I reached Pajala and the high-road. There was at least four feet of snow ill the surrounding forest, but it was fast disappearing at the time of my arrival ; and near the hamlet the fields were already bare. Dur- ing the day the mercury reached -1:5° and 48° in the shade, and 86° and 88° in the sun ; the nights were still cold, tlie thermometer marking 20° above zero, but every day the weath- er became milder. On the 22d of May it snowed, but the flakes were large and damp. On the 23d it rained, the first rain of the year, a thick mist falling all day, with the thermometer at 42°. This day was the advent of spring, which comes on quickl3^ I had about a month to spare before the first steamer of the season would come to Haparanda. I could now converse in Finnish, though not so fluently as I wished, and I accordingly LAPP BUM.MEK SUUKS. 204 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. wandered among the hamlets of the kind and hospitable Fin- landers. I was no longer a stranger among them, but was everywhere treated like a friend, and brother, and I learned more of their ways and language in that month than I had. during all my preceding journeys or visits to that part of the country. OLD-TIME BATm^a. 205 CHAPTER XYII. Primitive Customs. — "Evil to Him who Evil thinks." — An Arcadian People. — The Sauna or Badstuga. — The Custom of Bathing every Saturday. — My First Steam- bath. — A Remarkable Sight. — Running for the Badstuga. — Inside the Badstuga. — Terrible Heat. — Raising more Steam. — Cold Water. — Flagellating each other. — Leaving the Badstuga. — The Delightful Sensation in the Cold Air. — Rolling on the Snow. — Back to the Farm. — Visitors to my Room. — A Primitive Scene, The primitive customs described in this chapter exist in the most northern part of Sweden, E'orway, and Finland, and are still met in some out-of-the-way places in other provinces, more especially in the region between the Gulf of Bothnia and North Cape, though formerly they were prevalent farther south, and probably all over Scandinavia. Some of them showed an innocent simplicity, which at first astonished me. What struck me most forcibly was that the people did not see the slightest immodesty in them, and there was an utter un- consciousness of any harm ; which brought to my mind the English motto, Umii soit qui mal y pense — " Evil to him who evil thinks ;" and on the principle of this motto the reader is requested to read this chapter. I am simply describing things I have seen during my travels. These customs, like many others, will disappear, and I wish to put on record what will soon be a thing of the past. Had I been only once or twice on a visit to this country, unless staying very long each time, I should have been en- tirely ignorant of many of its customs. What I here state is not from hearsay, but the result of my own personal observa- tions, which verify the fact that the more removed people are from the great centres of civilization the more primitive they are, the more strange their habits, and the more honest and simple their ways. Wherever I went I was received with demonstrations of joy or shouts of gladness. "Welcome back, 20§ TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SDN. Panlus, from among; the Lapps !" were the first words that greeted me at tlie farms or hamlets where I had tarried sev- eral times before. My way of living among the people as if I were a native, had won their confidence and esteem. In various ways tliey had heard who I was, and if any fear had ever come into their minds it had been entirely banished. Only as a friend and brother can one enter the privacy of the household, and get an actual insight into their real life. My usual experience ran thus : I express the wish to take a warm bath, and at once the preparation begins. The cow- house undergoes a complete transformation ; the great iron pot, encased in solid masonry in a corner, used to cook food for the cattle, is thoroughly cleansed and filled with water ; when this has become heated the fire is extinguished ; every- thing has been thoroughly swept, and new straw is spread around for me to step upon, so I shall not soil my feet: 1 am just in the kettle when a stout girl of twenty summers, more or less, jumps in, dress and all, saying, " Paukis, I have come to help you." The words are hardly spoken before she begins to rub me with soap in a most forcible manner, and then to switch me with birch-twigs ! The only thing to be done is to consider myself her little brother, and I submit in the meekest possible manner. I have been subjected to the same treatment, minus tlie switching, in Stockholm and other places, but by women old enough to be my grandmother. One of the most characteristic institutions of the country is the Sauna (bath-house), called Badstuga in Swedish. It is a small log-house, built very tight, with no windows, having a single aperture above to let the smoke out ; in the centre is an oven-like structure built of loose stones, under which a fire is kept burning till they are very hot ; then the fire is extin- guished, and the women clean the place thoroughly of ashes and soot, the smoke-hole having been in the mean time closed. A large vessel filled with water is placed within; a number of slender twigs, generally of young birch-trees, are put into it, to be used as switches. The bath-house stands by itself, and at some distance from the other buildings, for safety in case it should take fire. Every Saturday evening, summer BATHING EX FAMILLE. 207 and winter, all over that iiortliern country smoke is seen issu- ing from tliese structures. It is the invariable custom for all the household, on that day, to take a bath, for the work of the week is ended and the beginning of Sunday has come. After washing, all put on clean linen and their best clothes. The stranger, the passing inhabitant of the cities, does not bathe with the people, for they are shy : he may have his bath, but all alone. It was only when they had come to regard me as one of themselves that I was allowed to accompany them ; then the neighbors, old and young, would often come to bathe and keep company with Paulus. I remember well my first bath enfmnille. One Saturday afternoon a couple of young fellows, friends of mine, as the girls were giving the last touches in cleaning the badstuga, shouted, "Paulus, take a bath with us to-day !" " Yes, do," exclaimed the rest of the company, among whom were the father and mother of the large family. The weather was piercing cold, the ground covered with snow, and I was glad that the bathing-place was within a stone's-throw of the dwelling. From my window I noticed several maidens wending their way with rapid steps towards it, in a costume that reminded me of Africa, minus the color. I did not wonder at their speed, for the thermome- ter stood below zero. Soon three rather elderly women took the same route from a neighboring farm, but the two oldest were clothed with old skirts around their waists; other young women followed, and all were quickly lost to sight behind the door, which they at once shut. They must be about to hold a sort of levee in the bath, thought I. Several aged men then made their appearance, followed in quick succession by young- er ones, and children of all sizes ; none had on any clothing whatever, and they also joined the throng inside. When I saw the field clear, I thought it was time to make a rush for the building. I emerged from my room at a run- ning pace, for I was dressed as scantily as those who had pre- ceded me. I hastily pushed the door open, and was welcomed by the voices of all the company as I closed it behind me. The heat was so intense that I could hardly breathe, and I begged them not to raise any more steam for awhile; the sudden 208 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. transition from twenty degrees below zero to such an atmos- phere overpowered me. As mj eyes became accustomed to the darkness of the place, by the dim light which came through the cracks of the door I began to recognize the faces of my friends. There were more people than usual, for all the neighbors had come to have a bath with Paulus. At first I seated myself on one of the lower benches built around, after awhile getting on the other above. More water was poured on the hot stones, and such a volume of steam arose that I could not endure it, so I jumped down again, and reclined in a half seated posture in order to breathe more freely. In a short time I was in a most profuse perspiration ; again and again steam was raised by pouring water on the stones, till at last the hot air and steam became extremely oppressive. Now and then w^e poured water on each other, which caused a delightful sensation of relief ; then with boughs every one's back and loins were switched till they smarted severely. "Let me give you a switching, Paulus," a fair-haired damsel or a young fellow would say ; " and after you get yours I want you to give me one." This operation is beneficial, as it quickens the circulation of the blood in the skin. In about half an hour the people began to depart, first submitting to a final flagel- lation, after which cold water was poured upon the body ; then all went home as naked as they came. As I emerged from the hut the sensation was delightful, the breathing of the cold air imparting fresh vigor and exhilarating my spirits ; I rolled myself in the snow, as did some others, and afterwards ran as fast as I could to the farm-house. In some places the men and women, as if by agreement, do not return together, and the old women wear something around their loins as they go to or come from the bath. I have gone out of the bath-house with the mercury at thirty-two degrees below zero. It is not dangerous to walk a short distance, as long as the perspiration is not suddenly and entirely checked. On returning one does not dress at once, for he must get cool gradually and check the dripping perspiration. I had hardly been fifteen minutes in my room, when suddenly the door opened (the people here, as is the case in most parts AFTER THE BATH. 209 of Sweden, uever knock at the door) and the wife, who had dressed herself, came in, and was not in the least abashed at mj appearance ; she talked with me as if I were in my morn- ing-gown. The door opened again, and a grown daughter en- tered, and then another. 1 began to fear that all the neigh- bors were coming, as if to a reception. Though they did not seem in the least troubled, I was ; I seated myself on a chair, however, and for a short time we carried on a rambling con- versation ; they then left, and I dressed myself and went into the stuga, or family room. At first I could hardly keep my countenance, for the sight was extremely ludicrous. There was a crowd of visitors, neighbors of different ages, and among them three old fellows — a grandfather, father, and an uncle — who were sitting upon one of the benches with legs crossed, minus a particle of clothing, shaving themselves without a looking-glass. Kobody seemed to mind them, for the women were knitting, weaving, and chatting. This was certainly a scene primitive enough. When the men had finished shav- ing clean shirts were brought, and they then dressed them- selves while seated. The men usually shave once a week, oftener when courting, and always after the bath, for the beard then becomes soft. These people are the only peasantry in Europe who take a bath every week, and they are very healthy. I never failed to bathe every Saturday-. The custom described has come down from olden times ; the ISTorsemen called Saturday Lauga- clag (washing-day), later Logadag, and at present Lordag^ but it is now chiefly observed in the regions of Scandinavia which we had crossed during the winter. Such habits can prevail only in a neighborhood remote from cities, where simplicity of manner has not been tampered with or modified by what are called higher types of civilization, and where a dissolute life is entirely unknown. From childhood the people have gone to the bath together, and their children are brought up in the same way ; innocent of guile, they no more imagine harm in what they do while at the bath than if they sat down together at dinner in the customary way ; still moi"e, the statistics show no more moral a people in Europe After the bath the wom- VOL. II. P 210 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. c!i wear high-necked dresses, and are very particular in their deportment; no debased woman would be tolerated in any lianilet in that part of tiie country. The custom of promiscuous bathing is a very ancient one in Europe, and prevailed extensively among our forefathers. Csesar, in his Commentaries, speaks of the Germans of his time as follows: "Those who remain chaste the longest bear the highest reputation among them ; tliis tliey consider in- sures stature to some, to others manliness and strength. * ^ * They all bathe promiscuously in rivers, without distinction of sex, and wear skins or slight coverings of deer hides, a large part of the body being nude ;"^ and Tacitus, Poniponius, and other Latin writers add their testimony to the chastity and purity of the people. Here, as in many districts of Norway and Sweden, the fam- ily, including even the men-servants, sleep in the same room ; the women wear garments with long sleeves, and rest with their skirts on, while the men remain partly dressed. A man- servant would feel himself greatly insulted, and believe the people of the farm thought hira an unworthy person, if a special room were set apart for him, and no one would be wil- ling to serve such a master. Servants, especially the girls, ex- pect to be treated as members of the family. ~No farmer in those regions would venture to break through this long-estab- lished custom of equal rights, for it would raise a great outcry against him, and he would appear proud and haughty in the eyes of his neighbors. I asked the wife why she had not a special room for her working-man. He answered me him- self : " Do you think I would remain in a family where I was treated like a dog, and sent to sleep in a room all alone, as if I were a villain ? No, indeed ; I will sleep only where the family does." We must not be too hasty in condemning what we have * " Qui diutissime impuberes pennanserunt, maximam inter suos ferunt laudem : hoc all staturam, ali hoc vires nervosque confimiari, putant. Intra annum vero vicesimum foeniinae notitiani habuisse, in turpissiniis habent rebus : cujus rei nulla est occultatio, quod et promiscue in fluminibus perluuntur, et pellibus aut parvis rhenonum tcgimentis utuntur. magna corporis parte nuda." "HOXI SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE." 211 outgrown, or never known. Ever}- day we witness customs wliicli are not according to our ideas of propriety. We at times see a mother nursing her babe in public, but tliat cer- tainly does not make her a woman deserving of reproach. In considering the subject we should bear in mind that if much has been gained by our advancing civilization, our ancestors were free from many of the vices which are the outgrowth of some civilized habits. V '> 212 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XVIII. The Advent of Spring within the Polar Circle. — Rapid Transition. — Farmer's busy. — AVhit-Sunday. — Emotional Religion in Church. — At Sattajarvi once more. — Whit-Monday. — A Warm Welcome. — Leave Sattajarvi. — Touching Parting. — The Farm of Varra Perrai. — Welcome Back everywhere. — A Fine Singer. — End of the Winter Journey. — Arrival at Haparanda. The spring was coining now with rapid strides, altliougli earlier than usual. On the 29th of May the highest tempera- ture was 63° in the shade and 10-A° in the sun ; on the 30th, %Q° in the shade and 105° in the sun, with about the same temperature on the 31st; and the last three nights had been without white frost, which the people said was over. The grass in sheltered spots by the rocks was green ; swallows made their appearance, and cuckoos were heard in the woods. These were the forerunners of summer, and the people hailed their appearance with joy. The birches were yet leafless, but the buds were ready to burst forth, and the pines and firs had already started with new life. People were busy every- where, ploughing and manuring the fields. At the farm of Yarra Perrai, about nine miles south of Pajala, I saw on the 29th of May the men ploughing, and a mother, two daughters, and myself sowed barley. The Varra Perrai farm was said to be more forward than those around Haparanda. The last week in May had been a hard one for the farmers. When Saturday came all were well-nigh exhausted, and the day of rest was waited for as the day of relief. May 31st was Pingst (Whit-Sunday). I went to church at Pajala, and witnessed there a striking scene of emotional relig- ion. As the pastor was preaching a woman became greatly excited ; she wept, shouted, and fell into a sort of hysterical fit; she thought her sins would never be forgiven, and that I OXCE AGAIN AMOXG OLD FBIEXDS. 213 slie was doomed to everlasting punishment. Those near her tried to pacify and comfort her, but she only laid her head upon their shoulders and wept bitterly. During this time the clergyman was not in the least disturbed, but continued his sermon, in which there was nothing at all emotional or sensa- tional. Even here persons sometimes become insane from religious excitement. After the service I wended my way southward to the ham- let of Sattajiirvi, where I was received w^ith expressions of great joy. The natives of this place and myself had formed a mutual liking for each other from the first, and there is no village in the far l^orth which has left more pleasant impres- sions of primitive simplicity and truthfulness on my mind than this one. These were the people who, in 1871, wanted Kris- tina to go to America with me, and who, this last winter, had brought Elsa Karoliua to me as my interpreter and guide over the mountains to Norway. Father, mother, sons, and daugh- ters were all very glad to see me again, and often would say, " Paulus, yon are no more a stranger among us, and we think of you as one of ourselves." "Come dine with us to-day, Paulus," one would say, "for we have very nice fish, which we have just caught." (Enormous pike are found in those small lakes ; they sometimes attain the size of four feet; there was a case in Kajana Lake where a man was bitten by one while swimming.) "Come and dine with us to-morrow," another exclaimed ; and as I passed by, " Come in, Paulus, I have cooked a cup of coffee for you," would call some kind poor mother who could not afford more. Still others would bake fresh bread and make waffles, and the milk that had the thickest cream was sure to be for Paulus. Monday was also kept as a holiday ; no one was in the fields, and, as in many other hamlets, the young people en- joyed such innocent pastimes as blind-man's-buff, tag, singing in chorus, leaping, and a little flirting. I joined in the amuse- ments, and was glad to find that none of the young farmers could leap as far as I did. On the 4th of June there was quite a commotion in the place, for I was to leave that morning. They had come 214 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. from far and near to say good-bye, and many were to accom- pany me along the road for some distance ; this was, indeed, a great compliment, for at that time of the year every hour was precious and could hardly be spared. When the horse and cart were ready, I was greatly touched by their demonstrative friendship — the warm clasping of hands, and the tears flowing down the cheeks of several mothers. They were really sorry I was leaving, and I felt sorry also. As we started the people shouted, " Farewell, Paulus ! farewell, Paulus !" " Happy jour- ney to America !" " God be with you, Paulus !" " Come again to Sattajiirvi — come again !" As I passed the farm of Yarra Perrai, the farmer Johan and his wife Brita Kajsa, witli Eva Mathilda, their daughter-in-law, and the two daughters, Brita Kajsa and Sophia Helena, were watching for me. " Come in, Paulus, come in !" they cried ; " you cannot pass Varra Peri-ai without eating," and I had to tarry awhile ; and so it went all the way. Wherever I was known I was requested to stop, either to take a meal or drink a cup of coffee, and was en- treated to remain for the night, so that the journey of a couple of days took two weeks. Silver rings, buttons, scarf- pins, brooches, photographs, were given to me as mementos and keepsakes ; and these, however humble they were, I have kept as souvenirs of this simple people. Remains of heavy drifts were common on the hilly coun- try between Kunsijiirvi and Ruokojiirvi. At Ruskola I was warmly welcomed by Grape and his wife. Farther on I spent a Sunday ; in the afternoon we all met at one of the farms, and a young girl, eighteen years of age, delighted us with her sweet voice ; she sang song after song, and I tliought it was the sweetest and most pleasing uncultivated voice I had ever heard, wliich is saying a great deal for one who has trav- elled in Sweden. The journey was drawing to a close. The last few days impressed me with the sudden cliange of the season ; tlie heavy mass of snow disappeared very quickly, especially on the protected fields. Vegetation seemed to grow visibly ; tliree days ago there were no leaves on the birches, now their buds had opened, the meadows were green almost all over, nature SUMMER ARRIVES SUDDENLY. 215 smiled everywhere, and one could hardly credit the sudden transformation. The spring burst into summer at once; and the birds heralded joyously the advent of the short and beau- tiful season of that northern land. The cattle were let loose in the woods by the roads, to feed on the dry old grass of the preceding year; insect life appeared, and I even heard the hissing sound of the snok {Coluber Icevis) — a snake two or three feet long, of a grayish color, which I had never met but in summer — as it crawled from under the stones which still protected a little patch of snow. On the 16th of June I was once more in Ilaparanda. My winter journey was ended. Only a few snow-drifts, protected by the rocks, were here to be seen ; on many of the fields the barley had now germinated, and the birches, with their young leaves, presented a charming sight. We were but a few days in advance of the season I had spent here in 1871, when on my way north. We have wandered together, dear reader, in summer and in winter in these high latitudes, and I have gained my object if I have been able to give you a correct idea of " The Land of the Midnight Sun." 216 THE LAND OF THE MIDMOUT SUX. CHAPTER XIX. Dalecarlia. — Remarkable Characteristics of the Dalecarhans. — Independence of the People.— Their Beautiful Traits.— Their Simple Life.— Children Tolls.— Falun. — The Copper-mines. — Reception by the Governor. — A General Letter of Intro- duction to the People. — From Falun to Leksand. — Thrifty Small Farms. — The Crowded Inn at Leksand. — A Friend in Need. — A Cordial Reception at Brums. — Superb Specimens of Manhood. — Costume of Leksand. Theke is a beautiful province in Central Sweden, lying north of the great lakes, called Dalecarlia,'^ with nearly two hundred thousand inhabitants. The people are peculiar and primitive, adhering with great tenacity to their old customs and national costume, and are the handsomest of the peninsu- lar population of Scandinavia. I know of no peasantry or people in Europe who present a prouder bearing or possess a more independent spirit. They are manly, honest, and kind- hearted ; proud of their ancient history, and of the warlike deeds of their forefathers, who, under the lead of Engelbrekt the Stnres, and later led by a Wasa, expelled the invaders un- der whose yoke Sweden groaned. They are fond of equality, addressing every one, even their king, by the prefix du (thou). Their representatives in the Diet come to Stockholm dressed in the costume of their parish, and go in like manner to the re- ceptions of the court. Entailed estates are unheard of among them ; the t&rpare of the south of Sweden and the husmand of Norway are not known. Perfect social equality has always prevailed. Every parish has its church, and each has a cos- tume which distinguishes its people from all others ; one of their peculiarities that struck me was that the people of one parish very seldom marry with those of another. They arc imbued with a deep religious feeling, and from their earli- * Called by the Swedes Dalanie. CHARACTERISTICS OF THE DALECAELIAXS. 217 est cliildliood are taught to do right because it is right, and to hate wrong because it is wrong ; and as, in their poor coun- try, there are no great temptations to pursue wealth, they fol- low the even tenor of a simple and virtuous life. Though shy of strangers, their confidence won, they are kind and warm- hearted. To gain their affections one nnist put aside all pride and presumption, and, in a word, be like one of them. Quick to appreciate a kindness, they are grateful for even the small- est token of friendship. When admitted to their intimacy and regard, a stranger is heartily welcomed to their homes; lie has hardly entered before the wife or the daughter is busy arranging on the table a simple meal of the best they have, of wdiicli he is earnestly requested to partake, and entreated to eat more. I was constantly hearing such expressions as, "Paul, you must eat more; you must drink more; you must not be bashful." The best room and bed were invariably for me. They are not rich, for the farms are small and poor in most districts, and the families are large ; but they are very thrifty and happy in their simple life, and merry when the hours of work are over. Often on a summer evening- one hears in the distance the sound of music (an accordeon or a violin), for the young men are on their way from farm to farm to serenade the maidens. On Sunday morning crowds are seen driving or walking to the large parish churches; in the afternoon visits are made ; and in the evening the young folks often indulge in innocent plays or in a dance. One should visit the country between the middle of May and midsummer, for after that the hamlets and farms are de- serted, and especially should one spend Sunday there. To the tourist the four most interesting parishes are Leksand, Rjittvik, Mora, and Orsa, for in these the people have preserved a more Arcadian simplicity ; I know of no other j^rovince in Scandi- navia that has left on me a more delightful impression. The landscape in Dalecarlia is soft and sylvan ; many of the hills are clad w^ith woods, and streams and lakes abound; there are also large tracts of swamp-land covered with forests. As you drive through the charming and diversified district, and lux- uriant fields dotted by farm-houses, you are suddenly arrested 218 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. by a gate built across the road to prevent the cattle from stray- ino-, and to protect the distant fields and meadows ; as you ap- proach, the children, who have been on the watch, are seen comino- to open the gate, and as you pass they range them- selves in a line, trying to look unconcerned, but really greatly excited. Their looks seem to say, " We have been here all day long, and you have not been obliged to get out and open the gate yourself." On giving them a few ore as a reward, an amicable scramble occurs for their possession ; but there is no quarrelling, and an honest division takes place. Three days before midsummer I found myself in the clean little city of Falun, with a population of about six thousand ; it is the chief town of Dalecarlia, celebrated for its copper mines, which have given the liin the name of Stora Koppar- berg (big copper hills). These mines are among the oldest in Europe, and are known to have been worked for more than six hundred years. In a document of King Magnus Smek, seen in the Museum at Stockholm, dated 1347 — which begins, "Mag- nus, King of Norway, Sweden, and Skilne" — these mines are mentioned as very ancient, and certain privileges are granted to the miners. In old times the master miners considered themselves equal to the highest of the land, and were called hergsadel (mining nobles); many of their properties were ex- empt from taxes, except in men or horses for the king's army. At that period the miners came out early on Saturday, bathed themselves, and on Sunday followed their bergsmiin to the church. It is said that at weddings or feasts each wealthy noble came with his retinue of miners. Some of the mine- masters were very rich, and their horses are said to have been shod with silver. The city of Falun is comparatively modern, and was found- ed by Queen Kristina in 1641. Charles XI. took great interest in the well-being of the miners, and in their spii-itual welfare. He composed a prayer expressly for the mining population. After his death, Charles XII. sent a number of texts, chosen by his father, as the subjects most fit to be preached to them, viz. : Gen. iii. 17-19 ; Deut. viii. 7-9 ; Deut. xxxiii. 19 ; Gen. xlix. 25 ; Deut. xxxiii. 25 ; Job xxii. 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28 ; KINDNESS OF THE GO VEEN OB. 219 Job xxviii. 1, 2, 3, 9, 10 ; Psa. xxiii. 4 ; Psa. Ixvii. G, 7, 8 ; Psa. xc. 17; Psa. xci. 11, 12; Psa. cvii. 21, 22. A museum connected with the mines is well filled ; and the mines themselves are well worth visiting, as the most im- proved machinery is used. The fumes from the sinelting-house destroyed for a considerable distance all kinds of vegetation ; but the same inliueuce, as a compensation, has hitherto pre- served this region from the cholera and other pestilences. I tarried awhile in the city, in order to present my letter of introduction to Herr De Mare, the Governor of the prov- ince, who received me with the unjjretending but none the less earnest Swedish manner, and expressed much pleasure at meeting me before his departui'e, on a vacation, for the south- ern part of the country. Like myself, the Governor was of French descent; he was also of Huguenot extraction. Ilis accomplished consort, like himself, spoke English and French. "When do you intend to start?" inquired he. "Immediate- ly after my visit to you," said I. " We cannot let you go without taking a quiet Sunday dinner with us to-morrow," he said, adding, " it will give me time to write some letters of introduction for you ; and then we can talk quietly together, and I may perhaps give you some good advice." I gladly accepted the kind offer, saying that I should feel obliged if the letters were addressed chiefly to the Dalecarlian bonder, for I wanted very much to become acquainted with them. The next day I spent some delightful hours at his residence. Three friends had been invited to meet me, and I found, as I always did in Swedish gentlemen's homes, that affable simplicity of manner which refinement and good-breeding only can give, and which makes the stranger feel at ease at once. When I left, the Governor handed me five letters, explaining for whom they were; and, besides, gave me a general letter of introduc- tion to every one in the province : As the bearer hei-eof, Mr. Du Cliailiu, from New York, world-renowned both for his travels of exploration (undertaken especially into the interior of Africa), and as an author, has the intention of going through Dalecarlia and spending some time there, in order to acquire a knowledge of its nature, country, and people, it is therefore my friendly request to every one of its inhabitants, whom Mr. Du Cliailiu 220 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. may solicit, to extend to him all the assistance and all the information he may re- quire for the attainment of the object of his visit, and to make his sojourn in Dale- carlia an agreeable one to him. ^ ,, , De Mabe, Governor of Stora Kopparbcrgs Liin, Fai.un, June '22d. The high-road to Leksand, just after leaving Fahin, presents for some distance a very barren aspect, because of the masses of mineral refuse piled there for centuries, and the absence of vegetation due to the fumes of sulphur; but after awhile the landscape becomes cheerful, and all the more beautiful from the sudden contrast. The farms are numerous, their buildings painted red with white borders ; the houses are not large, but look tidj and thrifty, being often surrounded by or- chards of apple-trees, and little plantations of hops; luxuriant fields of wheat, rye, barley, oats, potatoes, flax, and hemp, and wooded hills gladdened the eye. Many vehicles of all sorts and carts loaded with goods were passing along the dusty road. Hours had to be spent at the post-station by those who had not ordered in advance a forbud, and even by some who had : it was amusing to watch those who upon their arrival expected to get a horse or two at once, and who with smiling faces made the request: the sudden change of countenance when told that they would have to wait six or eight hours, or per- haps till the following morning, seemed not to indicate satis- faction. The perfume of that beautiful little flower, the Linncea hore- alis, at this time filled the atmosphere; wuld raspberries and brambles lined the roads, and the yellow anemone and other wild-flowers enlivened the landscape. After driving through a charming country for about thirty-five miles I crossed the Osterviken on a floating bridge, and alighted before the com- fortable inn at Leksand. The place was crowded by Swedish tourists who had come to see the midsummer festival, and 1 could obtain only a small room with two other travellers. Knowing the dread Swedish people have of open windows and draughts for ventilation, and being certain, as the weather was very warm, that no fresh air would be allowed to enter at night, I concluded that, as the choice of evils, I would rather FIIiST MEETING WITH DALECABLIANS. 221 sleep under a tree, wrapped in a blanket, or in a liay-barn, I declined, therefore, the accommodations at the inn, and the landlord expressed hitnself as being very sorry not to be able to provide for me. In my dilemma I suddenly remembered that one of my let- ters of introduction was to a farmer by the name of Broms Olof Larson, who, I had been told, lived not far from the church. In Dalarne, as in Norway, every farm has a name, but here it is put before the name of the person. His house was near the bridge I had crossed ; so, leaving my luggage at the inn, I inquired the way there. When I reached the place, I was shown up-stairs, and found myself in the midst of a gathering of Leksand farmers, who impressed me at once by their noble bearing ; they seemed astonished at my sudden ar- rival, as they knew me at once to be a foreigner. " Is Broms Olof Larson here?" I inquired. A liandsome man came to- wards me, and said, " Here I am." I gave him tlie letter of the Governor, after reading which he shook hands cordially, and bade me welcome to Broms, the name of his farm. "Wel- come to Dalarne," they all said, after I had been presented to each. Swedish punch and wine were served, and in the course of conversation I mentioned that I could not get a room at the inn. " You shall have one here," said Broms Olof. " "Where is your baggage ?" " At the giistif vareg§,rd." " Wait a lit- tle," said he ; " we will go with you ; we have some business to transact relating to the affairs of our parish." Such was my first acquaintance with Dalecarlia. I could not help admiring the men who surrounded me, as I was in- troduced to one after the other, for some of the handsomest specimens of Dalecarlian manhood were here represented. " I have a letter for the riksdagsman of the present Diet, Liss Olof Larson." " There he is," said my host, pointing to a man six feet three inches in height, and stout in proportion, with beautiful and expressive eyes, and honest face, l^ear him stood his father, who had formerly been riksdagsman, still taller — within a fraction of six feet four inches. Broms Olof himself was of medium height, w^itli regular features, bright ej^es, and exceedingly intelligent expression of countenance. 222 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Soon afterwards Eroms Olof, tlie riksdagsman, and I were on our way to the inn for m j luggage ; both insisted on carry- ing it themselves, and no others, not even myself, were allowed to touch it. MOB A WINTER OOSTITMB. The holiday costume of the men of Leksand is sombre : t]iey wear long dark -blue or black coats, falling below tlie knee, knee-breeches of the natural color of the hides, a w^aist- coat of the same material, or sometimes of cloth, thick white woollen stockings, shoes — many now wear the modern laced boots — and a woollen scarf around the neck ; they part their DALECARLTAN COSTUMES. 223 liair in the middle, and wear round felt hats ; as they leave the church on a Sunday in this costume they look veiy de- mure. On week-days they wear a long yellow leather apron, which hangs from the neck. The Leksand woman's skirt, of a thick blue-black wool, near- ly reaches the ankles, allowing the shoes and white stockings to be seen ; the body of the dress is made either of leather, red wool, or silk, disclosing the white sleeves of the chemise ; the apron is of a bright color, with longitudinal or transverse bands. The head-dress is ungraceful, as the cap fits closely to the head and hides all the hair in front and back ; it is of a bright color, with a white border ; on Sundays or festive days those of married women are of white linen. The children, both boys and girls, are most picturesquely dressed in canary -col- ored clothes, with little caps, from under which the hair hangs on the back. In winter the Dalecarlians of both sexes, of the four parishes I have mentioned, wear sheepskin coats with the wool inside. I was not long in making friends in Leksand. The news spread that an American had come with letters from the Gov- ernor to Broms Olof and the riksdagsman, and that he had been welcomed at the parsonage, and had dined there. Those who had relatives in America wished me to come and see them, and consequently it was natural that I should easily win the regard of these kindly people, and gain a hearty welcome during my different visits in their country ; and if the many hundred letters I have received in America — some of them breathing most intense friendship, as the reader will see here- after — are any proof of love and regard, I can truly say that I entirely succeeded in gaining their affections. 224 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN CHAPTER XX. Midsummer in Sweden. — Gala Appearance all over the Country.— The Majstang, or May-pole. — Where to be on a Midsummer-day. — Midsummer by Lake Siljan. — The Boats coming towards the Church. — The People flocking to Church. — An Impressive Sight. — Communion-service. — Babies in Church. — A Special Room for Babies. — A Large Parish. — Leaving the Church. — The Parsonage at Lek- sand. — Akero. — The Farm of Knubb. — A Characteristic Room. — Going to the Fair. — On a little Steamer. — Good-natured Folks. — Mora. — A Crowded Inn. — Comfortable Quarters at a Farm. — The Parish Church of Mora. — A Represen- tation of the Devil. — Utmeland a Sacred Spot. — The Mora Costume. — The Fair. — The Crowded Booths. — The Goldsmiths' Booths. — Warm Weather. — A Coun- try Show. — A Tame Bear. — A Lull at the Fair. — The People Feeding. — Love- making. — A Hilarious Crowd. — The End of the Fair. Midsummer (2-itli of June) is, after Christmas, Sweden's most meny festival ; the longest days have come, and the whole population seem to be bent on celebrating the advent of summer. At the seaports vessels are dressed with boughs of birch ; in the towns the horses, driving-wagons, omnibuses, and other veliicles are clad with branches of trees ; but it is in the country that the festival is most popular, and there the people flock in great numbers towards the Majstang (May- pole), which is raised in every hamlet and village. On mid- summer-eve the maidens and lads adorn it with evergreens and garlands of flowers, and in some districts with colored egg- shells, gilded hearts, and festoons of light paper. On this occasion the traveller in the country sees every- where signs of gladness; on the porches of the farm-houses, around the windows, at the gates leading to the lanes, green boughs and festoons are conspicuously displayed. He hears music in every direction, and sees crowds of merry dancers around the May- poles. There are no parts of Scandinavia where the midsummer-day is more interesting than on the shores of Lake Siljan, in the parishes of Leksand, Tiiittvik, MIDSUMMER BY LAKE SILJAX. 225 Mora, and Orsa, on account of the great number of people who crowd the large churches, and the stranger should not fail to be at one of these places for this festival. All over Dalecarlia, on midsummer-eve, the dalJculla (young woman) comes with flowers, and the dalkarl (young man) with evergreens, to adorn the May-poles, amidst joyous shouts and merry-making. The fervid religious nature of the Scandina- vian rural population leads them to celebrate all festivals by first going to church. Early morning found me in a fir grove on a bluff over- looking Lake Siljan ; the Leksand church, though near, being hidden from view. The weather was delightful, the water of the lake without a ripple, and like a sheet of glass. At five o'clock I was watching the boats from the hamlets rowing along the shore on their way to the church. Many were so distant that they appeared at first like black spots, which grad- ually became larger as they came nearer, and the number in- creased rapidly ; then the moving of oars could be seen, and the shapes of the boats distinguished : the red bodices of the women's dresses shone brightly as their wearers also assisted in the pulling. As they came to the shore I saw that the boats were thirty-five to forty-five feet in length, and crowded, some containing as many as seventy persons. Now and then from a boat came a whole family, from grandfather to great- grandchildren, and babies in arms : all looked as demure as Quakers as they wended their way towards the church, whith- er I followed the crowd. By land, also, vehicle after vehicle discharged its load of people, the horses being hitched around the church. Many were seen coming on foot ; every girl car- ried in one hand a little bouquet of wild-flowers, while in the other was her prayer-book, carefully wrapped in a handker- chief which she had herself embroidered ; this handkerchief is thick, and frequently partakes somewhat of the character of a small table-cloth. From her apron hung a pouch, also adorned with embroidery, containing a lunch of bread, butter, cheese, and a few young onions, of which the people are very fond. The leather strings of the apron are sometimes worked with colored wools, ending in leather tassels or pieces of gaudy silk. VOL. ir. Q 226 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. The church-yard was crowded with men and women, each sex by itself, waiting for the service to begin — some wander- ing among the tombs to place flowers on the grave of a rela- tive or friend. On the shady side of the church, near one of the entrances, some people were busy reading their prayer- books while the children were playing. The scene was strik- ingly like that of the painting by Exner, of which I give a copy, and no sketch could be more trutliful. The women who were to participate in the communion were especially sol- emn ; they wore a peculiar broad white cap, somewhat simi- lar in shape to those worn in Ilardanger as a sign of mourn- ing, to indicate that they were sorry for their sins. The young maidens are so particular at this time that their lovers for a week beforehand do not venture to visit them, and even a few daj'^s must elapse after the ceremony before they are allowed to continue their courtship. The parish church at Leksand is in the shape of a Greek cross, and is an imposing structure ; it is situated on the south- eastern side of Lake Siljan, near its outlet, where its white walls, embowered in shady trees, glisten in the rays of the sun. About five thousand persons were in the sacred edifice, which can seat nearly four thousand people, the women and the men apart. I was in the gallery facing the altar, in the pew of the old riksdagsman, who now and then showed me where I could follow the service in my book. The sight was very impressive; during the singing the whole congregation accompanied the organ with a fervor which could not be sur- passed; and the colors of the dress of the women, with the sober costume of the men, made a scene picturesque in the extreme. The sermon was listened to with attention ; even the shrill cries of several babies — of whom there were, per- haps, two hundred in the church — did not seem in the least to disturb the worthy pastor or his congregation, who evi- dently were accustomed to that accompaniment of the service. Mothers would often get up and go to the room which was built especially for their use, and which is entered from the church, to minister to the wants of the little creatures. On account of the great extent of the parish, and the large PARTAKING OF TEE COMMUNION. 227 number of parishioners, the communion is administered every Sunday. A great many advance to the altar — an equal num- ber of men and women — each sex taking half of the space at the railing, and after partaking of the bread and wine retir- ing, with bowed heads, to their seats. During the ceremony the whole congregation participates in chanting the old tunes used at the time of the Reformation. On some occasions only a very few people were seen at the communion-table, for those who partook of the sacrament could not engage in the festivities of tlie day. At the conclusion of the service the vast congregation retired, slowly and quietly, in a most demure and sober manner. Beyond the church-yard groups were formed, greeting each other, and many protected them- selves from the sun beneath the shade of a very fine avenue of birch-trees. Others went to pay their respects to the pastor, who, with his wife, welcomed all with a pleasant smile, in- quired about their families, congratulated some on their good fortune, or had a word of sympathy for those who were sor- rowful, while two or three of the leading farmers were invited to remain for dinner. The parsonage was a fine building, sur- rounded by extensive grounds, and having an excellent view of the river. The living was considered one of the best in Sweden. As the parish is large, the pastor has two or three assistants to aid him in his duties. The people of Leksand are among the most thrifty and prosperous in Dalecarlia ; their soil is pretty good, and the farmers are quite energetic ; some of the more far-seeing had succeeded in buying in various parishes (from their more simple brethren) large wooded tracts at comparatively small prices : this sj)ecies of property had risen so much at one time that some had thereby become wealthy, much to the cha- grin of those who disposed of their land and trees at a time when prices were lower. The farms are models of tidiness ; the houses are painted a bright red, with white borders around the windows, and porches have tiled or shingled roofs; nearly all houses have a kitchen-garden, with gooseberries and cur- rants, and often an apple-orchard. The people are exceedingly fond of onions, and every one cultivates a bed or two of these. q2 22S THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. Before ^oing farther, let us wander awhile among the people of Lcksaiid. On the other side of Sodra JSToret is the hamlet of Akerij, and among its farms are Knubb, LSng, and Ersters. Knubb may be considered a typical farm of the parish. The buildings form a square, entered through a porch, on one side of which is a dwelling-house, witli two rooms exclusively for guests ; opposite is the hay-barn, used for threshing grain, etc. ; here also is a porch. The dwelling-house proper is entered by a small hall, from which a door near the front opens into the daughter's room. On the sides of the hall are two doors, leading into large rooms which form the rest of the house ; that on the left is the dagllgstuga (or family-room), in which is a lai-ge loom for weaving linen or wool and two or three spinning-wheels ; in one corner is the open fireplace where the cooking is done ; also a table of plain boards, with a few benches and chairs. In the chamber on the right, where the clothing of the family is kept, are some chests and a looking-glass ; and on one wall, written on a piece of paper, " The congratulation of Erik to his wife," commemorative of one of her birthdays. On poles hang numerous woven skirts belonging to the wife, many of them, new, with bodies of the dresses in bright colors or skin, and some belonging to the daughters, with stockings, under- garments, white bodices, aprons, and bright embroidered hand- kerchiefs in which to carry prayer-books to church. The girls had taken several years to weave these, and felt great pride in their wardrobes, the products of their own industry, which are always ready when they are about to be married, that they may have a trousseau worthy of their station and the wealth of the family. Several rolls of broadcloth, to be made into garments, the Sunday clothes of the husband and boys, and others for the daily use of the children, are distributed in an orderly manner; and winter garments of sheepskin, as soft as chamois, some trimmed with fur, have their appropriate places. On the other side, opposite the porch, is a house, the lower floor of which is used as a store or larder; the upper part, reached by steep, ladder -like stairs, is the weaving-room in A TRIP ON LAKE SILJAN. 229 winter, and in summer serves for a bedroom, the beds being generally built one above another, like the berths on ships. A.n other building, which is used as stable and cow-house, com- pletes the square. Knubb Erik Andersson, the father, is a true type of the Dalecarlian; his wife is Anna Mattsdotter; the eldest daugh- ter, called after her mother, Anna Ersdotter, is a bright, blue- eyed, good-hearted girl ; Margareta and Karin and Maria, and the youngest of all, a fine lad, Anders Ersson, constitute the family. At this time of the year the people were out in the woods getting hay, but many returned on Saturday evening to spend Sunday on the farm, to go to church, and to meet friends who, like themselves, came for the day. iNot far from Knubb dwelt Ersters Erik Mattsson and his wife, Karin Mattsdotter — a fine specimen of an old couple. Their daughter Karin had a husband in America, and two small children at home : Daniel was a cunning boy, dressed in canary-colored clothes ; little Anna was a perfect beauty ; no peach ever rivalled the color of her rosy cheeks, and she was as loving and confiding with me as if I were her papa ; Ker- stin, the other daughter, was a strong, rather masculine girl, but with as good a heart as one could wish to find, A week after midsummer I was on my way to the fair which was to take place at Mora. I found myself, with sev- eral friends whom I had invited to go with me and be my guests, on board the small steamer which plies between Lek- sand and Mora, which is situated some thirty miles distant, on the extreme northern part of the Siljan Lake, a beautiful sheet of water, flanked with gently sloping hills, dotted here and there with hamlets and farms ; four parish churches are found on its shores — Leksand, Kilttvik, Sollero, and Mora. The fair begins on the first of July, lasting three days. The steamer was crowded with Dalecarlians of both sexes, and the deck was so encumbered with goods that it was with difliculty that one could move from one part to another. Among the passengers were a number of merchants who were going to the fair with their goods, and several Swedish tourists 230 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. bound for the same place. Besides others with whom I became actpainted was a young lady from Stockhohn, full of naivete, who told me that she had been watching my doings with my peasant friends ; then said, abruptly, " Ilerr Du Chaillu, I like you." I made a bow, and asked how I had created such a good impression upon her. She replied, "It is because you are so eccentric ;" and for this I made another bow. Twice we passed vast numbers of logs, enclosed in floating triangular frames of beams, being towed by a steamer to the outlet of the lake ; we saw others at anchor, waiting for a tug. Everybody seemed bound to have a good time ; and the hilarity became general, after a certain amount of refresh- ment had been taken by almost every one on board. One of the farmers from Mora, whom I treated to a glass of beer, was so much pleased that he insisted on my coming to stay at his farm, and offered rae, in return, a pinch of snuff. The sail was delightful ; and as the white church appeared nearer and nearer the young men combed their hair, and arranged it in what they considered the most attractive way. I did not wonder at these preparations, for the jetty was crowded with fair maidens who had come to witness the landing of the pas- sengers. Numerous vehicles had already arrived, and the peo- ple were lodged at the hamlets near the fair grounds, whole families sleeping wherever there was space — even the barns were filled by the crowd. No room could be had at the comfort- able inn of the place, the grounds of which were very pretty, with numerous summer-houses under the shade of which peo- ple could take their meals or refreshments; and I was there- fore delighted by the invitation of Johansson, with whom I found excellent quarters at Noret, receiving a hearty welcome from his old father and mother. Not far from the landing stands the parish church, much less capacious than that of Leksand, with whitewashed walls shining in the sun. It contains some curious paintings, among which is a representation of the devil on a large scale, with a tremendous horn. This picture gives, I suppose, a good idea of what the people thought the monster was like at the time it was painted, and of the popular estimate of the prince of darkness. THE SHRINE AT UTMELAKD. 231 At a short distance, on the other side of the river, is Utme- land, so dear to the Swedish lieart, for there the great Gus- taf, founder of the Vasa dynasty, was hidden in a cellar by Matts Larson's wife. When those who were seeking his life arrived the wife was brewing tlie yule ale, and she placed a vat over the trap-door leading below. The vault is the only thing that remains of the old farm-house, but over it a shrine has been built, enriched with historical paintings, one of which is by Carl XV. It was with no little emotion that I descend- ed into this small cellar, as I recollected the history of the monarch and his descendants who have thrown such a halo of glory around their country's name — not among the least the great Gustavus Adolphus, the hero of the Thirty Years' War. THE ORNASSTUGA. Every place where Gustavus Vasa was sheltered or hidden when he came to Dalecarlia is pointed out with pride. There is a house in Orniis, on Lake Runn, south of Falun, still stand- ing, in which Gustavus slept overnight ; but its owner, Arendt Persson, an old friend of his, tried to betray him to the Danes, when again he was saved by the traitor's wife, Barbro Stigs- dotter, who provided him with conveyance to the pastor at Sviirdsjo, where he was safe for the time being. The Mora costume is picturescpie ; the women M'ear red 232 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. instead of white stockings, and shorter dresses than those in Leksand, and evidently are not averse to showing the sym- metry of their limbs. The skirt is of black homespun wool, often bordered with yellow, and the waist is red ; the apron is generally of the color of the skirt, with two or three bright bands at the bottom. On the head they wear a neat handker- chief of calico, nicely ironed, and take great pride in properly tying the knot under the chin. The women part their hair on the back of the head, and the two locks thus formed are wrapped their whole length with ribbons — of a white color in the case of wives, and red for the maidens — and these are bound around the top of the head, forming a sort of crown. The men wear a bluish coat, shorter than that of Leksand, knee-breeches, dark -blue stockings instead of white, and on week-days the vest and long apron. Very early in the morning the road was crowded with ve- hicles loaded with people, and with pedestrians on their way to the fair; by ten o'clock at least three thousand were on the ground, and the scene presented a most animated appear- ance, and very striking from the variety of costume. Over the doors hung skins, shoes, etc., as signs ; there were also hardware and dry goods stores, the latter crowded with pretty girls in search of the printed head-kerchiefs worn in Mora and Orsa. Groceries, wool, and even salt pork from America, were bought and sold. The centre of greatest attraction was the jewellery booths, where thousands of silver rings, plain and ornamented, were displayed ; for if there is anything a dal- kulla likes it is to see her fingers well adorned with rings. A large assortment of brooches, thimbles, spoons, and fancy arti- cles was a tempting sight. Few girls bought gold rings, as they were too expensive for their slender means. I gave away hundreds of silver rings to my fair friends. At the inn I kept open table, inviting many to partake of refreshment, and before the evening had over a hundred invitations to dif- ferent farms. The heat of the sun was intense, and the cool places where lager and wines were sold were literally packed with people. A popular feature was a large tent, where a big bear was on exhibition. A LIVELY SCENE AT THE FAIR. 233 During the afternoon, while among the horses and vehi- cles, where numerous groups of people were seated on the grass eating their dinners, my attention was drawn to a young couple commencing a flirtation ; he ostensibly feeding his horse, she coming to her cart close by, apparently to get something that she had forgotten. Furtive glances were cast around to see if they were watched, for tliey would have no peace among their neighbors if they were suspected of courting: heretofore somebody had always been in the way, and their eyes only could meet, speaking tender messages ; now they could have a little talk. When she said good-bye, the words iche sd hrcid- tom (not so hasty) made her tarry as long as she could without exciting susj^icion. But he will come some Saturday evening (the lover's day) to her father's farm, and show the maiden that her beau of the fair has not forgotten her. Spirits being sold at Mora, many men had gone to that place to fill their flasks or bottles to take home ; but their good intentions were not carried out at the proper time, as the contents had disappeared during intercourse with friends, who in their turn thought themselves bound to return the compliment ; the consequence was that soon they all began to feel the effects, and before the close of the day King Alcohol had most of the men as his subjects ; but though exhilarated, and some even intoxicated, they were good-natured, and the younger men wanted to make love to all the girls they met, acting as if they were going to kiss them, and often walking with their arms around the maidens' waists. I noticed that none were so far gone as not to be able to distinguish the good-looking ones ; but the dalkulla is no weak creature — she is fully equal to resisting approaches in a joking way, or sud- denly disappearing among the crowd. It was a jovial and characteristic scene, with hardly any disagreeable features — certainly with none of the quarrelling, coarseness, and boister- ousness usually accompanying such a festive occasion in more favored southern climes. There are only two fairs in a year, and every one wanted a good time. By seven o'clock the peo- ple began to leave, and by eleven the place was deserted. So passed the first and by far the more lively part of the fair. 234 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XXL A Wedding in Dalecarlia. — Arrival at Westanor. — ^Welcome at Liss. — Preparations for a Wedding. — The Larder well stocked. — Drinliables abundant. — The Bride- groom and the Bride. — Great Number of Guests. — Lodging the Guests. — My Quarters. — Dressing the Bride. — Leaving for the Church. — The Procession. — Imposing Sight in the Church. — Many Bride'smaids. — The Nuptial Ceremony. — Return to Westanor. — Congratulating the Bride and Bridegroom. — The First Meal. — Dancing. — A Lull. — A Week of Festivities. — End of the Wedding-feast. — Giving Presents to the Bride. On a bright midsummer-eve I found myself again in Dale- carlia, and in the parish of Leksand, very weary, having travel- led night and day from UmeS, Lappmark, over a distance of nearly six hundred miles. I arrived just in time for a wed- ding to which I had been invited, and which was to take place the following day. Towards the close of a brilliant sunset I entered the hamlet of Westanor, and alighted before the farm of Liss. The tall forms of the old riksdagsman and his eldest son appeared on the threshold, with warm words of welcome. Carl, another son, and expectant groom, said, "Paul, I was afraid that you would not be here for my wedding." I as- sured him that I should have been greatly disappointed had I arrived too late for the ceremony. I was no stranger at Westanor and the adjacent hamlet of Smedby, and all my friends were glad to see me again. Not the least among them were dear old Timgubb Ole Andersson and his good wife Brita, with their young daughter Anna, and the good people of Skaft, Olars, Nyg&rd, and other farms. A wedding in Dalarne, when the betrothed belong to the families of wealthy bonder, is no small affair, especially if the parents of the bride and bridegroom rank high socially among their neighbors and in the parish. Invitations are extended personally, by members of the respective families, about two ' THE WEDDING PREPARATIONS. 235 weeks before the ceremony, and each guest gives a small meas- ure of malt to make ale for the feast. For several weeks preparations had been made at the Liss and Olars farms for the coming festivities, and kniickebrod had been baked in large quantities ; for the last two or three days several girls had busied themselves in making soft bread. Parties had been sent fishing, and returned with the results of their trip. Many sheep and an ox had been slaughtered ; there was also an abundance of bacon, butter, and cheese : barrels after barrels of potatoes were lying in rows. Looking at the huge piles of bread and other provisions, I wondered if it would ever be possible for the guests to eat all. The drink- ables, which constitute so important a part of a wedding-feast, had not been forgotten, and a large supply was on hand. A great deal of dark and strong ale had been brewed and was stored in barrels, near which were numerous kegs of briinvin, sherry, port-wine, and Swedish punch, and bottles without end. Though I knew from former experience how much would dis- appear, I felt sure that nothing would run short on this occa- sion. One of the ancient customs still prevalent is that called "forning." It consists of each guest bringing or sending a contribution in eatables or drinkables to help carry on the feast. Puddings and cakes of all kinds had been sent by neighbors and invited guests. A large arbor of branches of birch-trees had been erected in the yard of each farm, to pro- tect the guests from the rays of the sun, and arches had been built over the gates and doors. Liss Lars Olsson, the father of the bridegroom, was not only a wealthy farmer (said to be worth about twenty or thirty thousand dollars), but, as we have seen in a former chapter, had been for many years one of the riksdagsmen who repre- sented Dalecarlia ; his eldest son, Liss Olof Larsson, had now succeeded hira, and was considered a very able man. He was a bank commissioner of the Diet — an office of great trust — and also ndmndeman (juryman).* No two men were more re- * In each harad (judicial district) there are twelve jurymen, elected by the land- owners of the district, who, with the district judge, decide certain cases. 236 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. spected in Leksand. ■ The father of the bride, Olars Anders Olsson, a neighbor, was also very much esteemed, and the owner of a large number of acres of good laud and forests. The wedding was particularly agreeable to the two families, for a sister of the bridegroom had married a brother of the bride. Generally the wedding-feast is given only by the father of the bridegroom ; but in this case, as it was to be on a grand scale, and the father of the bride was a neighbor, the festivi- ties were to be held at the two farms at the same time. One could hear continually the rattling of plates and dishes, the clatter of knives, forks, and spoons, and the tinkling of glasses sent by neighbors and friends, for no one household could furnish crockery enough for such an entertainment. Tailors and shoemakers had finished their work, especially for this occasion, and the last preparations were taking place. It was no easy matter to lodge all the guests ; but the neighbors came forward, and every dwelling in the hamlet was turned into a lodging-house. There is such pride in re- gard to hospitality shown to honored guests, that each family did its best; the finest linen sheets and pillow-cases were taken from the storehouse, for it would never do for people to return home with unpleasant remarks on the hospitality of Farmer So-and-so, or to be able to call him and his wife mean people. A small bright-red house, containing a single room, was assigned to me during the week of the festivities. The furniture consisted of two fixed beds, opposite each, other, with a window between ; but, on account of the great number of guests who had arrived from a distance, a temporary couch also had been put in. I was the first to retire, and had hardly done so when the bride and the sister of the bridegroom came in, and said, " Paul, are you asleep ?" On my saying no, each added, " I hope you will have a good time during the wedding;" and taking oft" their shoes, and partly dressed, they lay down to rest on the bed opposite mine. This was true Dalarne hos- pitality — a mark of honor and respect. I was trusted as if I were a Dalecarlian, for the girls said, " We come here to keep you company ; we do not want you to feel lonely, for it is not A WEDDING COSTUME. 237 pleasant to be all alone in a house," Soon after a dalkarl, and a handsome dalkulla to whom he was engaged, came in, and both lay, fully dressed, on the other couch, and fell asleep in each other's arms. At three o'clock I was awakened by the bride, who had risen and was putting on her shoes ; she was going to the house of her future father-in-law to begin her toilet, as several hours are required for this ceremony in Dalecarlia. I got up soon after and asked Carl, the bridegroom, and the old folks if I could go into the room where the bride was being dressed, and all at once said, " Certainly, Paul, you can go." The girl was seated on a chair, surrounded by several of her companions, every one of whom was either making a sugges- tion or helping in her toilet. Then would cojne a pause, and a final judgment be rendered on what had been done. In front of the bride a looking-glass was held by an admiring friend. Now and then the old riksdagsman's wife would come in to see how things were progressing, and to remind the party that the hour for going to church was near at hand. The wedding costume is like that ordinarily worn by the women of the parish, except that a large quantity of artificial flowers and beads are sewed on the body of the dress ; all the brooches that have been given the bride are fastened in front, and for the first time she wears on her head the white close- fitting cap which designates the married state. The groom is distinguished only by a broad white collar falling over his coat ; this, with the wedding-shirt, is the gift of the bride. As the time to depart for the church approached I dressed myself, and for this especial occasion, in the costume worn by the men of the parish of Leksand : when I peeped into the glass to see myself a glow of satisfaction overspread my face, and, with a feeling of vanity natural to men on such an occa- sion, I really thought I was not ill-looking. When I appeared out-of-doors a shout of delight greeted me, and they said, "Look at Paul — he is not proud ; he is now like one of ns." I had no idea that this freak of mine would produce such a good effect on my Dalecarlian friends. As the wedding-hour drew near cart after cart appeared. 238 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. A bridal party must be accompanied by a great number of vehicles — the more tlierc are of these, tlie greater the compli- ment to the families; every friend is expected to come on wheels, so that the show on the way to and from church may be worthy of the station of the bride. The scene in the lane and around Liss was of a most lively character. A procession was formed, the ex-riksdagsman with one of his married daugh- ters taking the lead ; the second carriage, drawn by two horses — a very unusual thing — contained the bride (who held in her hand the psalm-book, carefully wrapped in a large silk hand- kerchief, which, according to custom, had been given to her a few days before by her intended husband), the groom, and myself : more than one hundred vehicles followed, loaded with people. As we drove along the high-road and passed the farm-houses many people were out to see the procession, and I could hear them say, " Look at Paul in a dalkarl's dress." The church of Leksand that day presented a most brilliant appearance ; it was literally packed, and there was hardly standing-room; even the aisles were crowded, and over five thousand people must have been there. As the Midsummer- day is a very popular one for weddings, six other couples were to be united in the bonds of matrimony. From the upper gallery the view was very striking. The couples were near the altar, and the bride'smaids collectively numbered over one hundred and tifty; they were scattered in different groups, however, instead of being near the brides and bridegrooms. They were easily recognized by the artificial flowers and beads on the bodies of their dresses — although these were in lesser quantity than on those of the brides — and by their red maiden caps. The service commenced with a hymn of praise, sung by thousands of voices, accompanied by the great organ ; after this all couples to be married went under a red canopy before the altar, where the marriage ceremony was performed with the exchanging of rings. "When all was over, the bridal par- ties and guests got into their respective carriages, and, after a little confusion, our procession started back, the newly-wedded pair now taking the lead, the rest following in the same order as before. MODESTY OF THE HONORED GUESTS. 239 After arriving at Liss, the happy couple were congratulated by the guests, who shook hands with the bride, she receiving all with becoming modesty. In the mean time food had been cooked for more than five hundred persons by the respective parents of the newly -married pair, who were to keep open house the whole of the week. It being impossible for all to eat at once, the most honored guests and nearest relatives were first invited, and I among them. Then came the usual scenes characteristic of Scandinavia : all those specially invited kept themselves modestly in the yard, or in a corner of the room ; M'hen any name was called by the host or hostess, the person had to be dragged to the place assigned, often with some difii- culty, each thinking the end of the table good enough for him : it is considered very rude to go at once. When my turn came, I imitated the natives — I resisted manfully, and it took five minutes to get me to ray proper seat ; which taken, I became as gentle as a lamb. The mothers and sisters were in the kitchen, surrounded by servants, serving up and sending in the dishes ; the sons saw to it that the guests had enough to drink. Dishes after dishes were passed around, and all were constantly urged to eat more : it seemed to be firmly believed that on a wedding-day one can eat for hours without ceasing, and can drink at least four times as much as on ordinary oc- casions without feeling the effects. Among the guests were a couple having a fine farm but no children ; and as the fish was passed around I suggested that they should not let it go by, but help themselves, adding that I had come from the North, where the people eat much fish and have large families. This was taken up by the guests in the midst of uproarious laughter, and all shouted and urged them to help themselves, which they did bountifully, amidst general merriment. I had hardly left the table, and was taking breath in the yard, when I was seized by the father of the bride, who in- sisted on my following him to his house to take another meal. In vain I expostulated and resisted — eat I must, and drink I must ; they would not take no for an answer, and I soon had occasion to ask myself if I could continue this way of liv^- 240 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. ing for six days more. Bj seven o'clock the hamlet was de- cidedly exhilarated ; everybody was happy — very happy — for all had on this festive occasion drank many times to tlie health of the bride. As it was vacation, the school-house, by permis- sion, had been transformed into a ball-room ; three musicians played on violins in one corner, and here hundreds of guests had been invited. Drinking was indulged in ad libitam, the young men of the respective families being the bar-tenders, and freely giving whatever was asked for. The dancing continued all night, the bride having to dance with every man ; but the bridegroom, who was not in good health, was allowed to go home, otherwise he would have been obliged to do likewise with every woman. The second day dancing began in the af- ternoon, and again the bride had to be present and dance with her friends. She had laid aside the flowers which adorned her bridal - dress, and instead wore the silk handkerchief in which was wrapped her psalm-book the day of the wedding. On the third day there was a lull in the festivities for a time, for many of the guests were very tired, some having taken rest only now and then; others had violent headaches, produced by want of sleep or excessive eating and drinking, and were groaning under the pain. This peculiar headache is called Jcopparslagare, as the throbbing pain in the region of the temples is said to remind the sufferer of the thumps given by a coppersmith on a vessel he is mending. I suffered some discomfort from such promiscuous eating and drinking, for with all my care I could not always refuse to skSl with a friend — here with a glass of wine, there with beer, then with something else. I stole away to a neighboring farm with friends who also felt exhausted. In one room was a bed where the mother and father lay, and I threw myself upon the other where the daughter was fast asleep. On the fourth day there was a revival, and things went on in the old way till Saturday noon ; but nothing was wanting, and food and drink were apparently as plentiful as on the first day. In the afternoon the bride and bridegroom stood in the main room of the largest dwelling-house of Liss, where the guests, who had made preparations to return home, one after BIDDING GOOD-BTE TO THE BRIDE. 241 another came to bid them good-bje, and thank them for the pleasant time they had had. Every one, as lie left, put in the hands of the bride some bank-bills, which, withont looking at, she dropped into the big linen pouch hung, on that occasion, at her side: this was the parting gift, and every guest, accord- ing to his means, gave money to the bride. The girls of the hamlet had held a meeting, and all had agreed that each should give exactly the same sum. A popular bride often gets a considerable amount in this manner, which enables her and her husband to begin life quite cheerfully. I thought the custom good, and most practical ; so I made an offering, said good-bye, wishing the happy pair long life and happiness, and departed. VOL. n. 242 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTEE XXII. Again in Dalecarlia. — On the Road to Orsa. — Pleasant Travelling Companions. — Lof Kislin. — Vangsgiirde. — Skradder Anders. — Welcomed at Kaplans. — Palack. — Marts. — The Church Hamlet of Orsa. — Consequences of giving a Gold Ring. — Costume of Orsa. — Dalecarlian Names. — The Church of Orsa. — A Handsome People. — Exquisite Complexion of the Young Women. — Orsa a Poor Parish. — The Stock of a Farm. — Hamlets away from the High-road. — My First Introduc- tion among them. — We are great Friends. — Their Loving Letters. — Their great Kindness. — Three Friends. — Large Numbers of Widows. — The Farm of Guns. — Leaving for the Fabodar. One year had passed away since the wedding of the old riksdagsman's son, and I found myself again in Dalecarlia. The fair at Mora was over, and once more I was on my way to Orsa — and to this day there arc no parts of Scandina- via more pleasantly remembered by me. There was in the vehicle Lof Kistin, Per's dotter, a poor widow witli a small farm, having more children than heads of cattle, who could by working hard just get along ; but, in spite of poverty, she was kind-hearted, and her weather-beaten face was the image of honesty. The other was Smids Kisti, from Stenberg, a pleas- ant girl, who was returning with the proceeds of a sucking- pig, barely two weeks old, which she had sold at the fair for six kroner — a pretty good price. She was delighted at the thought of swelling the little sum b}^ the proceeds of the fare she was to receive for driving me : she had taken up poor Kistin, who had come to the fair all the -way on foot in the morning. "VVe chatted merrily as we drove along ; it was late, so the road was not crowded, and we met only a few women — some carrying their babies slung on their backs by leather bands — or gayly- dressed girls, and young men on the way to their farms. As I journeyed towards Orsa, to see my old friends, I A WARM-HEABTED FARMER. 243 noticed everywhere the remains of midsummer festoons hang- ing over the porches, and the faded flowers on the May-poles. After a drive of eight miles we left Lof Kistin before her humble home ; as we parted she said, " Paul, no cattle are on the farms now; but I have a milch cow at home, and the children to-morrow will bring you sweet milk and cream." A little farther I entered the hamlet of Yilngsgarde, where, on my former visit, I had been stopped on the highway, while passing liis blacksmith shop, by Skriidder Anders Hansson, w^ho owned a fine farm here. He shouted, "Amerikanare, stop your horse — sleep here ! you will be welcome on my farm ; I have caught some nice fish in the lake, and yon will have a good supper. I have a brother in America, and I want you to stop with me. Please tarry, even if it is only for a night ; I have a fine horse, and a good honse close by, and I will take you to-morrow where you like ; I will also give all the milk you can drink." I could not resist his earnest in- vitation, and my cart wheeled to his farm, amidst the joyous shouts of those around. I was treated royally by Anders and his wife Kirstin. Unfortunately, she spoke only the old dal- sjyraket (language), and it was very hard for me to understand her. Anders was one of the best-hearted fellows I ever met. Soon we were quite intimate. There was nothing too good for me, and I passed the night in a little house by the porch lead- ing to the lane. Skriidder was a fair farm ; but, besides, my friend was an excellent blacksmith, and his trade yielded him a good living ; he had the reputation of being one of the best fishermen, and also somewhat of a hunter. He invited me to come and visit him as often as I liked. " Paul," said he, " I will build an upper story, and there will be your rooms, and you will have a fine view over the Orsa Lake." But this year the large gate leading into the yard of Skrad- der was barred ; nobody was at home. Continuing my way, I entered Holn, an adjacent hamlet, and alighted before Kap- lans, where my friends, Per Persson and his good wife Kisten, Lars's dotter, received me with open arms, their faces beaming with joy, for they had been looking for me for some days, having heard that I vras in Dalarue : little Kisten, a sweet, deli- R 2 24:4: THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUK cate child, who was as fond of me as I was of her, soon climbed into my lap, and their sons. Per and Hans, were asking me all sorts of questions. Skriidder Anders had left word that he was obliged to go to the meadows to mow the hay, and that I must not fail to come and see him there. In my turn I inquired for my friends : who had been mar- ried, and who had died since my last visit; what were the prospects of the crop ; wliile all the time little Kisten was sitting on my lap, and showing me the photograph I had sent to her parents. Meanwiiile the mother was preparing a hearty meal for me, and, as I was expected, they had dried some new hay for my bed, which was to be in the loft of the barn. Fresh sheepskins and homespun blankets had been spread over, and when I retired tliey all said, "Paul, no fleas will come and trouble you." Early the next morning Lof Kistin arrived with a pail of sweet milk. Many a farmer has a trade. Skriidder Anders, as we have seen, was a blacksmith ; Kaplans Per was a tailor, and had earned quite a reputation for the making of leather knee- breeches. His small house and farm were neat, and his wife an excellent house-keeper ; they were so fond of me that they wanted me to take a meal at least every two hours. These w^ere, of course, very simple, for no cloth covered the plain board ; the frying-pan was often put on the table, the butter was served in its pail, to make sure that I should have enough, and there was bread for at least ten persons ; they all seemed delighted that they could give me milk, cream, wild raspber- ries, and other things they knew I liked. Contiguous to Per Persson's farm was another of the same name which belonged to Hans Olsson, whose family was com- posed of Anna, Lars's dotter, his wife, a son called Hans, two daughters called Kirstin and Anna, and a young school-master. Near by was Palack. Here the husband was dead, and had left a widow with six children — four girls and two boys ; the three eldest daughters, Anna, Kerstin, and Margit, were grown up, and helped in the varied work of the farm ; while the younger children, Karin, Anders, and Lars, assisted in their way. I admired the two little fellows : they never grumbled THE CHURCH HAMLET OF OESA. 245 at what they were told to do, and seemed always eager to help their mother and sisters. Another farm, almost facing Kaplans, on the other side of the road, was Ullars, belonging to Per Hansson ; and farther than Skriidder were the farms of Borbos, Bruks, MSngsa, Bogg, and others. By the shores of Orsa Lake was the hamlet of Lnnden. I was very fond of going there to visit MS,rts, a poor farm, owned by a worthy widow, Anna Anders's dotter, dearly loved by my friends of Kaplans. Time had furrowed her bronzed but honest face, for she and her daughter Kerstin had to work hard, as the farm was small and its products were not always enough to support them ; but they always insisted on my par- taking of the best they had. Kerstin has since married a man- ly fellow, who I trust is worthy of her ; but a letter I have re- ceived from them tells me that good old Anna is dead. About two miles from Holn is Orsa Kyrkoby (The Church hamlet), a peculiarly ugly place, consisting of sixty or seventy farms or homesteads, close together, without fields between, and with very narrow streets. In summer the stables attract swarms of flies, which bite so persistently that after three in the morning one cannot sleep. The people do not take any measures to guard against them, and nets are unknown. Mos- quitoes are also numerous, and fleas abundant, except at the station. Should a fire occur, with a high wind, the place would be entirely destroyed. The watchman constantly w^alks the streets while the people sleep, and cries the hours of tlie night. I was always amused by the old fellow, who had for his companion a young and handsome girl. The inhabitants of this hamlet were far less hospitable than in others, on account of the crowd, and no milk or food were offered to the stranger. The inn was at that time much fre- quented ; many had come to buy provisions before leaving for their farms. There were several stores, some being licensed to sell beer and wine. The jDlace was a general rendezvous of purchasers, and many of the men rarely returned till they had indulged in several glasses of beer, or in a beverage called Norwegian wine, made of berries, containing so much alcohol 246 TEE LAND OF TUB MID^UGHT SUN. that it took but little to make one tipsy. As the sale of spirits was forbidden, the wine had to be strong. One day the sur- ronndino-s of the inn were more boisterous than usual. The youno- men of the beviiring had come back, and were celebrat- ing their return home by freely drinking w^ith their friends either of the liquors they bought in the village or the briinvin they had brought with them. The beviiring is a military or- ganization, composed of young men between twenty-one and twenty-five years of age, and during that time they have to drill for three weeks the first two years. On my first visit here I had discovered that the giving of a gold ring to a maiden meant a great deal. Among the many friends I had made at the fair at Mora was a kulla from one of the hamlets of the parish of Orsa, on whose engage- ment-finger, without knowing its significance, I had placed a ring. A few days afterwards, late one night, I came to that part of the parish near which her family lived ; but the affair had entirely left my mind. At the early hour of four o'clock in the morning I was aroused from slumber by a knock at the door. Bidding the person enter — though grumbling at the same time at the disturbance — I recognized a friend at the fair and the father of the girl whose finger I had adorned. " Good -morning, Paul," said he, in a very friendly voice; " I am glad to see you in Orsa. You must come and see us ; we live only half a mile from here." Approaching my bed he said, in a confidential voice, " Paul, there is a stoi' sprdk (big talk) in our village in regard to the ring you gave to my daughter ; I come to ask you what is your meaning. Do you really think of marrying her ?" I had no such inten- tion, and no idea that I had created such an excitement. The girl was very pretty, and her fair complexion and unexceptional bearing had attracted my attention; from my giving her the ring the good people thought I had fallen desperately in love with her at first sight, and the family had no objection to the match, especially as many from that hamlet had emigrated to the United States. My answer was simply, " We do not mar- ry so hastily in America, and do not bind ourselves in such a way. Your daughter is a very fine girl, and I gave her that THE ORSA COSTUME. 247 ring simply as a token of friendship. I have given many such as souvenirs to remember me by." Nothing more was said, and the good fellow made me promise to come and see him. When I went to the farm I was received most cor- dially ; but the excitement was great among the neighbors, who thought I had come to ask the hand of the fair Dalecar- lian, notwithstanding my protestations to the contrary. After- wards I was very particular when I gave a gold ring, and took the precaution to give several in the same hamlet, to prevent any gossiping. The costume of Orsa is very unlike that of other parishes. The coats of the men are of white homespun cloth, and short ; Generally two are worn, the under one being without sleeves ; this is done for better fitting. Knee-breeches of white leath- er and dark -blue stockings are worn. All part their hair in the middle. The body of the dress of the women is of bright scarlet wool, allowing the long white sleeves of their chemises, which come to the wrist, to be seen. The skirt is of bluish-black thick woollen cloth, often ruffled in weaving, over which is a tine yellow leather apron, with a border of black cloth at the bottom, or one made of the same material as the dress. The stockings are of white wool ; and often queer shoes, with the heel in the centre, are worn. They fasten the hair so tight that in the course of time it be- comes very thin at the parting ; their head-dress is a colored handkerchief, always smoothly ironed, the knot being tied with great care. There are but very few names in Dalecarlia, as it is custom- ary there, as well as in many other districts of Scandinavia, to call the children first after their father or mother, then after their grandparents and other relations. Among females Anna is by far the most common ; then comes Kristina, Margaretha, Katharina, and Birgitta. These names, except Anna, are spell- ed in different ways by the Dalecarlians : Kirstin, Kirsten, Kestin, Kisten, Kistin, Stina, Margit, Marget, Margreta, Greta. No one is ever called Katharina — but Karen, Karin, Carin, Kari. Birgitta is always shortened into Brita or Britta. These four names, with few exceptions, are those of almost all the 24S TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. women ; and the only way to distinguish one from another is by the name of the farm. The same may be said of the names given to men. Anders, Lars, Hans, Olof, Erik or Erick, Jons, Per or Pehr, and Daniel constitute almost the entire list — the first five being very common. The parish church, close to the village, and not far from Orsa Lake, is about ten miles distant from that of Mora, and is reached from the latter place by the picturesque highway passing through some of the hamlets we liave mentioned. The edifice is of stone, plastered over, and is kept dazzling white inside and outside. The cemetery which surrounds it is also enclosed by a white wall. Sunday is the day on which the tourist can get the best idea of the physical development of the Dalecarlians, The people of Orsa are, I think, the handsomest in Dalecar- lia. The graceful costumes of the men show off their fair proportions. They are strong, tall, and active, as befits the hilly character of their parish. Many of their maidens have that peculiar Swedish complexion which, for clearness, fair- ness, and freshness, surpasses any I have seen elsewhere. The rose-tints which suffuse their cheeks are as delicate as those of the apple-blossom floating in milk. Add to this the deep- blue eyes, cherry lips, fine teeth — kept very white by chewing the Mda (gum from the fir-tree) — fair and silky hair, and you have what may be considered a type of beauty found only in Sweden. In no other countries where the blonde complex- ion predominates has the blush of the cheeks that exquisitely pink tinge, which gradually melts and diffuses itself into the extremely white skin. This complexion is probably produced by the peculiar climate. But if the people are handsome their parish is poor, for the farms are small and the families large ; very few of their houses are painted, and they are not kept as clean and tidy as those of Leksand, and have no gardens or orchards near them. Few farms have more than five cows — many have but two, with some goats, sheep, and a pig or two. Poor, indeed, is the family that does not own a horse; and the ambition of those who have none is to become so rich that they may buy one. MY INTRODUCTION IN WIBORG. 249 On tlie highway from Mora to Skattungen Lake branch many narrow, rough roads, leading to numerous hamlets, hid- den from sight by intervening hills or woods. There the people are still more primitive and trusty. Among those I have visited are Sandbiick, Wiborg, Oljonsby, Torvol, MaggSs, Kail mora, Stackmora, Orsbleck, and others. Even now me- thinks I hear the voices of welcome which greeted me at the threshold of every farm-house. The first time I visited one of these was with Skradder Anders, who wished to introduce me to one of his friends, Gubb Ole Andersson, the owner of a very good farm in Wiboi'g. What a welcome I received, and how great was the excitement of the neigh.bors who crowded around me when Anders gave the most minute details of his acquaintance witli me — of what he heard the riksdagsman of Leksand and many others of that parish say of me at the fair of Mora. He also spoke of the special letters the governor had given me, among which was one for M^ngs Hans Ersson, of their own parish, a well-known bonde of Stackmora; and, to crown all, he assured them that I was one of the best fellows in the world. Such were my credentials on my first acquaintance, and the warm welcome I received from all proved that his speech had the desired effect, and that his friends believed his words. ISTo introductions were now required in Orsa or anywhere near. Wherever I visited there was joy in the household ; I was treated like one of their loved relatives, and the inner life of this warm-hearted people freely made known to me. The broad Atlantic divides us ; months and years have rolled by, but the same warm Dalecarlian hearts beat; the old friends still think of me and love me. Often my thoughts wander back to tlie days gone by — to tliat pure and loving and trust- ing nature still found here and there in the midst of our rest- ive and busy world, but especially in Scandinavia. If we can- not see each other we can at least write one to another: and how beautiful are their simple letters ! There is no hiding of tlioughts, no studied phrases ; they come right out and say what they feel, and I never knew how much they loved me until we were parted. How endearing are their expressions ! 250 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. SO mncli so, that, if it were not for the signature, I would often mistake a letter from a man for that of a woman. I have re- ceived as many as three or four hundred letters a year from Scandinavia, many of which I have preserved, and sometimes I love to read them over again, as they bring back vividly to luy mind friends that are far away, but who are not forgotten. All of them begin with some affectionate expression, of which I give a few examples : "My good friend Paul Du Chaillu;" "Best friend Paul Du Ciiaillu ;" " Good Paul ;" " My dear friend Paul ;" " My dear and kind Paul ;" " My dear friend and brother Paul Du Chaillu ;" " Best Paul ;" " My best friend Paul ;" " My kind and never-forgotten Paul, who has a heart which reaches as far as to Dalarne ;" " My good friend Paul Du Chaillu ;" " Kind Paul Du Chaillu ;" " Beloved Paul Du Chaillu ;" " My kind Paul;" "My kind friend Paul;" "Always remembered friend Paul;" "My beloved and kind friend Paul;" "Ten- derly beloved Paul Du Chaillu ;" " My unforgotten friend Paul ;" " My beloved friend Paul ;" " My dear and beloved friend Paul ;" " My dear and kind friend Paul ;" " My affec- tionate, tenderly-beloved friend Paul." The letters are signed in the same loving spirit, showing the place which I still retain in their affection. I append a few signatures : "To our beloved and much remembered friend Paul, for what we have received we sign our names;" "May God grant thee a happy voyage here. I never forget friend Paul;" " We never forget friend Paul ;" " Be so kind as to accept this letter with friendly hand, sweet Paul;" " Faithfully and friendly I sign my name ;" " Live well, friend Paul. Amen." "Farewell for this time. Signed by a humble friend;" "Many greetings from all thy friends;" "Live well, my dear Paul;" "Most hearty and dear greeting to ray most humble and amiable Paul. Good-bye — live well;" "Do not forget thy friend;" "Signs with great friendship;" "Most friendly greeted from thy true friend ;" " With friendship from thy true friend ;" " Accept affectionate greetings from a humble friend;" "Good-bye for this time, my kind Paul, signs thy ENDEARING EXPRESSIONS. 251 faithful and never-forgotten ;" " A thousand, thousand thanks for the letter — it pleased me very much ;" " I heard that thou hadst not forgotten me, and I had also not forgotten thee ;" " Now I end my humble letter with a thousand-fold dear and frequent greeting from a true friend;" "Forget-me-not — I have certainly not forgotten thee, my friend ;" " With great frieudsliip signs thy — ;" " ISTever forget thy friend;" "Most friendly I sign my name ;" " I can never forget thee, but I often think of thee;" "I now must end my letter with a thousand-fold dear greeting to thee, Paul Du Chaillu, and all thy friends;" "And may God guard thee over the ocean, if thou wilt travel to us. Live well — be happy ;" " Paul, thou hast promised us that if God gives us life and health we shall meet next summer ;" " Live and feel well, my dear and beloved friend;" "Most faithful and affectionate friend Paul;" "Most sincere and dearest greetings to my heartiest and most amiable friend Paul, Good-bye — live well;" "Best friend Paul, I never forget thee. Live well ;" " Kow I send my humble letter with a thousand-fold dear and repeated greeting from a faithful friend." From the perusal of the above the reader may imagine the friendly greetings I received when visiting Dalecarlia. On a warm summer day I bade good-bye to Holn and Vangsgiirde, and a pleasant walk brought me to the hamlets of Oljonsby and Wiborg, situated about two miles from tlie main road. The farms of these two places are scattered here and there, and a stranger does not know when he enters one and leaves the other. In many parishes or judicial districts there is a public piece of land, like the English common, called allmdning, where the people of a hamlet have a right to pasture their flocks and herds. There are also forest commons {skogsaUindning). If any one in the parish, wishing to build a house, can show that he does not possess the forest required for his purpose, he makes an official request to the district judge, when he is holding court, who will then issue an order to the jiigmastare and to two members of the communal council to have the wood cut for his use. 252 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Almost all the farms were owned by friends of mine, and it would be difficult for me to say where I was the most wel- come. I only remember that it was impossible for me to become hungry, for I could not call at any house without hav- ing a meal set before me, and to refuse to eat was out of the question ; I could not have dared to do so without running the risk of incurring the displeasure of the family. I had eaten with a neighbor, and I had to do likewise with the next, no matter if the repast had been taken but one hour before. There seemed to be a rivalry among all to do the best they could, and outdo each other in kindness to me. When I called at a farm, immediately the husband and wife, the son and daughter, insisted that I should spend the night ; and if I had promised some one else before, they insisted that I should not leave their hamlet without doing likewise with them. They wanted their dear friend Paul to be happy, for Paul was \n frdmmande land (a foreign country), and they were afraid he would feel lonely and sad. Their love was returned by me, and I also tried my best to please them in a hundred little ways. The simple tokens of remembrance I gave them were appreciated tlie same as if they had been gifts of the greatest value ; and often I think of the hamlets of Oljonsby, Wiborg, Torvol, Sandbiick, Maggys, and of the farms of Gubb, Jemp- ters, Benjamin, Mikols, Ryttar, Bartas, Guns, Hanser, Backer, Karins, Briitt, Lagger, Agdur, Nissa, Finspers, Jemt, and many others, where so many pleasant hours have been spent in the study of those primitive natures, in which I detected every day traits and characteristics which were entirely unknown to me before. One peculiarity of the country was that whenever I met a dalkulla she would, as a sign of friendship, pull out of her pocket a piece of rock candy and give it to me, or insist that I should take at least a bite ; or take out of her mouth a piece of the kfida she chewed, and give it to me to do likewise : to refuse the latter would have been a breach of etiquette. Agdur Anders, Bartas Hans, Benjamins Per and I were great chums, and when their work was over we would often meet and pay visits together ; once or twice we went and sere- A LARGE NUMBER OF WIDOWS. 253 naded the fair Dalecarlian damsels, wliose parents, after awliile, would invite us to come in, and offer little glasses of spirits; and, a cliat over, we would depart and visit another farm. At other times we would go to The Church hamlet to buy some- thing, and then before returning would join in a glass of beer. Agdur Anders and Biirtas Hans are now married. Benjamins Per and friend Paul are still single. I was struck while in Orsa by the great number of widows I knew. It was indeed sad to see so many large families under the care of poor mothers. " How is it ?" I inquired. " Paul," they would answer, " money is hard to get ; our farms are poor, our children are numerous, and our husbands are obliged to work at the quarries of grindstones ; the dust breathed is very unhealthy, and brings on sickness and early death : that is the reason you see so many widows." The mother, in these cases, takes charge of the farm, and the children, always duti- ful, help her to the best of their abilities. Among my good friends, for whom I was full of sympathy, were those of the Guns. This farm was owned by Anna, who had been left with five daughters, who bore the names of Margit, Caren, Brita, Lispet (Elizabeth), and Kisten. Margit and Caren, the eldest, Avere respectively twenty and eighteen years of age, and, with the rest of the family, carried on all the work of the farm except ploughing and threshing. How hard tlie older ones labored during the summer, especially during the harvest and mowing time ! how happy they seemed when I lielped them to stack the hay ! The time to leave the hamlet finally came. The people had collected and dried the alder leaves, as shown by their stained hands ; the fields had been weeded, and the furrows for potatoes had been ploughed ; and every day many left for the fabodar or sseters. We will now wind our way among the hills, and spend a few weeks amidst the fragrance of the pines, visiting the Orsa and Riittvik fabodar. Each of these has a name, and those we have visited are called Ecksjo, SkafS,sen, EskSsen, Ilamra- sen, Utengs Bleck,Huhes, Hjerpasen,Grunneberg, Horenberga, Spirisby, Talllies, and Fjiiskn. 254 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CIIAPTEE XXIII. The Fiibodar or Sseters of Sweden.— Wild Tastures of Dalecarlia. — The Dalecar- lians's Fabodar. — Girls following the Cattle. — Departure for a Fabod. — On the Koad. — Arrival at Hemrasen. — Life at the Fiibodar. — Life by the Swamp-mead, ows. — Aker Jonas Fabod. — A Sunday at Riittvik. — Bright and Picturesque Costume of Riittvik. — Social Enjoyments. — Eskasen. — Departure. The fabodar (sseters) of Sweden occur in very few prov- inces, as the country is not mountainous, and only north of Stockholm. In Dalecarlia they are very numerous in the forest -clad hills, among which are rich pastures, chiefly in marsh or wet land, which dries up as the summer advances, and along the shores of lakes and ponds : as the water retires, the horse-tail {Equisetmn vulgare) grows thickly, and of this the cattle are very fond, and are allowed to eat it, though it gives a disagreeable taste to the milk. In these lakelets cat- tle are sometimes fatally mired in the soft mud, and hence require constant watching by the girls. In many parts of Dalecarlia the forests are almost inaccessible on account of the swamps, and there the moose {Alces malchis) roams at will, be- ing hunted for only six wrecks in the year. The fabodar of Dalecarlia are in many respects unlike the Norwegian saeters, resembling rather hamlets in the forests surrounded by large fenced fields of grass and grain, the cat- tle often remaining with some of the family till after Christ- mas, to avoid the transporting of hay. The houses are com- fortable and well built, wnth fireplaces, beds, and necessary out- buildings; in reality they are forest-farms. During the day the cattle, sheep, and goats are taken to the pasture-land under the charge of a girl, who leads and guides them either by her voice or the sound of a horn (for dogs are not used either in Norway or Sweden at the sseters). HOW PROPERTY HAS BECOME TOO MUCH DIVIDED. 255 A pocket containing salt hangs from her waist ; she knows every one by name, and if perchance one be missing, slie calls the absent one by name, and rewards its coming by the gift of a little salt. As she walks along she knits a pair of stockings, for none of her time is idly spent. When a good pasture- ground is reached she seats herself on the trunk of a dead tree or upon a stone, in some dry spot in the shade, knitting as she sings a psalm or a lov^e- ditty, and watches the sun, at whose setting she retraces her steps to the fiibod, where the cows are milked and the cattle housed for the night. To see from the hills a herd pasturing in the swamps and meadows, and hear the tinkling of their bells, brought vividly to mind the charms of pastoral life. The farm property in Dalecarlia is very much divided ; as it is distributed equally among all the children, the division is often so small that it is hardly worth having. With the inter- marriages which have taken place, it has become so mixed up, and each piece of land is so far away from the main farm, that much is wasted to secure a small crop. The government has taken the matter in hand, and is trying to make the farmers exchange properties, so as to unite them all in one. When a farm includes extensive marshes and meadows far away from the fiibodar, the only shelter for the hay-cutters is a shed of bark to protect them from the rain. Goats follow them and supply them with milk ; and the hay is stacked, to be removed in winter on sleighs to the farm. I saw in North-eastern Dalecarlia some fiibodar of a some- what different character. A fence enclosed a few acres of pas- ture-land, which often produces very fine hay; around this were several cattle-pens belonging to different farmers, who club to- gether and put their cattle, sheep, and goats under the care of girls, who on alternate days go to pasture the cows, or remain at the fiibod to make butter and cheese. The price is about one krona and fifty ore for each milch cow for the season, from June to the end of September ; there is also a stipula- ted price for the care of dry cows, goats, and sheep. Our party from Oljonsby consisted of Per, his wife Kirstin, and Karen and Marcjreta, her sisters. We had two horses 25G THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGUT SUN. loaded with bread, flour, cooking utensils, salt for the cattle, and blankets, ten goats and one pig — the latter proving the most troublesome of the party. Per took the lead with the horses, Margreta had charge of the goats, Karen of the pig, and Kirstin carried her baby. At about half way we stopped to eat our simple dinner and make a cup of coffee. The road, though very rough on account of numerous cobble-stones, was passable for carts used for transportation ; rude bridges span- ned the streams, and, where the ground was swampy, branches or trunks of trees had been laid close together across the road, as on our so-called corduroy roads. I found the weather in these forests very warm at raid-day, and was glad to rest awhile at Grunneberg, at the fiibod of my friend Agdur An- ders ; and, besides, it would have been a great slight to pass without partaking of the hospitality of his family. Before dark we reached Hemrasen, which has quite a number of houses scattered here and there, with hay-fields fenced around. Soon after our arrival the neighbors — all women — came and welcomed us. As my friends had to go to work the next day, we retired early to the barn, where we at once spread skins on a little hay, and slept in them ; for, though the days were warm, the nights were cool. The life at the fiibodar is a very laborious one. At daylight Per and the women were up and busy sharpening the hand- scythes, and after a meal taken in a hurry went out to mow a meadow about three miles distant, returning in the evening just at dusk. Often from early dawn till evening not a soul remained at Hemrasen, although every house was left open. One day, having lost myself in a swampy forest, and feeling exhausted on my return, I retired in one of the untenanted houses and fell into a long sleep. Great was my astonish- ment the next morning when I was roused from a profound fil umber by Jemt Anna, Per's dotter, from Maggils. How she learned that I was there I could not tell. She said, " Paul, there will be no one here until night, and I did not wish to go before giving you something to eat." There were daj's when a great number of people came to tarry only for the night, on the way to some grass-fields. One GOING TO EATIVIK. 257 day came friends Biieker Anna and her brother Hans, with six goats, on their way to a distant meadow, fairly loaded with the food they had taken for the whole week and the scythe?,. The goats, which were to provide them with milk, followed like dogs. We agreed that in a few days we would meet at Eskasen. Among the fabodar was one belonging to Aker Jonas An- dersson from Riittvik, who, at the time of my visit, was there with Brita his wife ; both of them spent their days in mow- ing grass. The cattle and dairy were under the care of two kullor, one being a daughter and the other Dunkkol's Karin. How pretty these maidens looked in the picturesque costume of their parish — one busy at churning butter, and the other standing before the hearth and attending to the making of cheese, or roasting coffee, while the big brass kettle hung above the fire. When Saturday evening came, Aker's Brita suggested that Dunkkol's Karin, Finsper's Per and his wife, with her two sisters and myself, should go to Riittvik and spend Sunday at the farm of her father. This suggestion was accepted at once by all of us, and at daylight on Sunday morning we were on the way. After a tramp of several hours, chiefly through swampy meadow-land and forests, we reached a lovely tract of country and a good road, which passed through an exceedingly rural and beautiful landscape till we reached Aker in Gullerasen, where we were received with the usual warm-hearted Dalecarlian hospitality. The costume of the women of Kiittvik is the gayest and the most picturesque of Dalecarlia. The skirt is of a bluish color with a green border ; the waist is dark ; the woollen apron is gorgeous with transverse bands of white, green, yel- low, or blue. The dress is short, in order to display the stock- ings, or rather leggings, embroidered at the bottom in designs of showy colors, like those worn in ^Norway at Theleraarken and at Sseterdal. The cap is very graceful — black with red trimmings, or sometimes of snowy-white lineii, w^ith two balls falling on the back. The afternoon was passed in social enjoyment ; and I no- ticed here, as I have in many other parts of Scandinavia, the VOL. II. s 258 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. fondness of the old folks for the young people. Often one sees a grandfather playing the fiddle for his small grandchil- dren, who enjoy a dance amazingly. After leaving Kiittvik I wandered from one fabod to an- other ; I went frequently all alone, surprised that I did not get lost every day in the forests, for many paths led only to swampy meadows. The silence of the woods was broken only by the shrill voices of maids in charge of the cattle, or now and then by the tapping of a woodpecker on a hollow tree. One Saturday afternoon I found myself at the fabod of Es- kt1,sen ; in the evening the people began to come in from every direction, from their week's work, and early on Sunday every- body was dressed, as if ready to go to church. Each friend insisted that I should come to his fiibod and partake of his cheer ; and if anybody had told me the amount of milk and cream and buttermilk I could drink in a day, I could not have believed it. I did not fail to go and see Skradder Anders, and there I saw the plain wooden cradle in which he had been rocked, with his ancestors before him, with the date cut into the wood, showing it to be two hundred and fifty years old ; after which I made visits to most all my friends. It was, indeed, a great luxury to me to sleep in the barn on the newly gathered hay, and to feed on milk, cream, and the plain food of these hardy farmers, and I felt that my body and mind were strengthened by such a life. As July drew to its close, many returned to their hamlets to mow the grass and harvest the grain ; so, bidding good-bye to the Orsa and Rjittvik fiibodar, I wended my way once more towards Orsa Kyrkoby, and thence over to Norway. NORTR-WESTEBN DALECABLIA. 259 CHAPTER XXIY. North-western Dalecarlia. — Leaving Orsa for Norway. — Garberg. — Elfdal and its Porphyry Works. — The Election of a Pastor. — Contrast between the Elfdal and Orsa People. — Asen. — From Asen to Sarna. — Crossing the Elfdal River. — In the Woods. — A Storm. — A Leaking Roof. — A Fabod. — Mosquitoes. — Grund Olof. — Eistin and Charlotte. — Solitary Farms. — Sarna. — The Church at Sarna. — Remains of Primitive Church Customs. — Jealousy of Parishes or of Provinces. — The last Hamlet of Western Dalecarlia. — Reception by the Pastor. — End of the Carriage Road. — Going to Roros. — A Boggy and Forest Tract. — The Elg-sjo. — An Aged Rower. — Storbo-sjo. — Meeting Fishermen. — Flotning-sjo. — Attempt at Extortion. — The Fa?mund-sj6. — Comfortable Quarters. — Old Torbert Mikkelssen. — An Old Farm-house. — On the Faemund-sjo. — Roros. The north-western part of Dalecarlia is covered with large forests, containing extensive swamps and bogs, which make this part of the country difficult of access. The Eastdal Eiver, so called to distinguish it from the Westdal, flows through a very thinly settled country, falling into Lake Siljan, near Mora Church. Leaving Orsa, I had for fellow-traveller a captain of the Swedish army, a most delightful companion, who was going a part of the way, and we had agreed to travel together to ren- der the drive less tedious, as the country to be traversed was very uninteresting. At first the road was very sandy. TVe changed horses at the pretty hamlet of Garberg, with its red-painted houses scattered amidst verdant meadows, waving fields, and groves of trees, in the midst of which flowed a stream of clear water, running fast towards the river below. The next hamlet of importance is Elfdal, with an excellent inn, near which are celebrated porphyry works. The most common variety is of a dark-brown color, containing reddish crystals of felspar ; other varieties of stones are also worked, especially by peri te and granite. The greatest production of s 2 2G0 THE LAND OF THE MIDMCUT SUN. the place is the colossal vase before the royal summer coun- try-seat of Ilosendal. All the labor is done by the country people living in the vicinity. Here, as in many other parts of Sweden, the living of the church is not in the gift of the Crown, but the pastor is elected by the land -owners. I was there when an election took place ; three candidates for the office had preached on the preceding Sundays, for the living was worth having. The excitement was intense, and the church was crowded ; the con- test was so close between two of the aspirants, that the success of either depended entirely on a gentleman who, being a large property-owner, had several votes to cast, and whose preference no one had been able to ascertain. Though I was not interest- ed in the result, I was in the people assembled, for they cer- tainly did not belong to the fine Dalecarlian stock. The dif- ference was very striking, though only fifteen or twenty miles separated them from the pai-ishes of Orsa and Mora ; they showed evident signs of mixture with a Lapp ancestry, for they were short of stature, particularly the women, with prominent cheek-bones and the Lapp nose ; there was hardly a good-looking man, and not a handsome woman in the crowded congregation. Beyond Elfdal the country became more thinly inhabited. Ten miles farther up is Asen, having a chapel where services take place only a few times during the year, to allow the old and infirm to go to communion. Here I parted from my companion, who recommended me to Soldaten Smed, owner of one of the best farms in the place. From Asen to Siirna was a long stretch of six Swedish miles, and there was no hamlet between the two places where a post- station could be established. I travelled from there with the soldat's son-in-law, his wife, and their little four-year-old daugh- ter, Maria (who took a great fancy to me), and a deaf and dumb girl, named Kirstin. We had two carts loaded with scythes, food, and blankets, for the family were going to the meadows for two or three weeks. After crossing the Elfdal River at a ferry, and after a long drive, we left the road and went through thi") forest till we came to a large meadow, fenced all around with several hay-houses, one of which be- A MONOTONOUS LIFE. 261 longed to my friend. We arrived just in time to escape the rain, wliicli soon fell in torrents. We all slept close together, on account of the cold and wet, for the roof was leaking bad- ly. Mosquitoes were as abundant as within the arctic circle. Early in the morning we separated, man and wife going to mow in the meadows, while Kirstin and I went to a fjibod, where the goats had been left, to bring them back to give milk for the mowers. We found there a large en^jlosure with cattle-pen and houses, and perhaps one hundred head of cat- tle. All the girls at this place slept on the floor in one house, and Kirstin and I in the evening joined the throng and did the same. On our return with the goats we moved to a shelter roofed with bark, in a part of the forest not far from extensive swamp meadows. The mosquitoes were so numerous that we collected firewood and made as much smoke as we could, to drive them off. The following morn- ing I was left entirely alone in the camp, but not before little Maria was put to sleep and left under my care. They were not gone one hour when she awoke. I succeeded for awhile in amusing her ; but finally she began to cry for her mamma. In order to quiet her, I had to carry her and walk in the forest, making her believe that we were going after mamma, and, coming back, to play with her ; but I was fast reaching my wit's end to amuse the child, when happily her mother came back, wondering that she did not find her asleep, and when I told her what had happened, she laughed and said, " Paul, you would make a good nurse." Two days of this monotonous life was all I could bear ; so, returning to the main road, I found Grund Olof Olsson, who had come that day from Asen, according to our agreement, and was waiting for me with a vehicle to take me to Siirna. I soon came to Nybodo, a fabod near the highway, in charge of two maids, called Kirstin and Charlotte, the first being old, and the last young and handsome. Olof recom.mended me to the care of these women, told them that they must show me the way to the farms, and left. Charlotte could play superbly on the horn, and when she followed the cattle the forest re- sounded with the airs she knew. 262 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. I remained a few days to visit, the solitary farms of these woods, in order to study the effect of this sechided life on the character of man. At some distance from Nybodo, on the other side of the road, I came to such a farm, called Eiis, surrounded by a few fields and meadows. I could not help thinking how lonely was the life of these people. The old folks were not at home, but a daughter, an intelligent girl, received me very kindly, and prepared a meal for me ; she was not afraid, as she had seen me before with Charlotte and Kirstin. Two of her brothers were imbeciles. Siirna is prettily situated on the banks of the river, which here had widened into a lake. It has a parish church, a good inn, and an excellent school, open from October to the end of June. The pastor had been settled here for twenty -seven years, and visited the old church with me. Ascending the pulpit, I saw near the Bible what resembled a policeman's club, at the end of which was a thick piece of leather, the whole reminding one of a martinet. This had been used, un- til within a few years, to awake the sleepers, the parson strik- ing the pulpit with it very forcibly, thus compelling atten- tion. Near the pulpit was a long pole, rounded at the end, with which the sexton, it appears, used to poke the ribs of sleepers. These two implements, intended to keep the con- gregations awake, were used extensively in many out-of-the- way places in Sweden twenty or thirty years ago, and here till within a few years, but were discontinued by the present pastor. Now pinches of strong snuff are often offered to the sleeper, who, after sneezing for a considerable time, finds his drowsiness entirely gone. In one place, where I had been particularly well received, I got a good illustration of the fact that the young men dislike to see the girls of their parish marry witli the people of another. Asking my friend who had introduced me if he observed how charming the daughter was, he said, " No, indeed ! would you believe it, Paul, she is going to marry a man from Yermland, who came here to get his living, and made love to her on the sly. It is a great shame that she should take for a husband a stranger; as if there were no fine fellows in our parish." AN AGED BO WEB. 263 After traversing a distance of over three Swedish miles I came to Idre, a poor hamlet with a few farms scattered far apart. I found the clergyman mowing his field of hay, for he could not afford to pay a man three kronor a day to help liim. Leaving his work, he invited me to his house, and presented me to his wife. I was urged to partake of his simple dinner, which I enjoyed very much. Here the carriage road ends, and the traveller wishing to go to Norway must follow the forest paths over the hills. Wishing to cross the peninsula again from sea to sea, I con- cluded to go to Roros, a town noted for its copper-mines, and as being one of the coldest places in Central Norway. Swamps are numerous, and planed logs, often two or three abreast, are laid over the most boggy parts, for horses and people to go over. The first farm we reached was on the shore of a small lake, the Elg-sjo (Elk Lake). As a deep narrow stream had to be crossed in order to reach the house, ray guide shouted for a boat, but apparently in vain, and I was about to cross on horseback, when a boat came in sight, rowed by an old woman over eighty, but strong and healthy ; she had with her two great-grandchildren, who had been left in her care. I offered to row, but she said " no," and pulled both oars with a will and strength which astonished me. Arriving at the farm she shouted, and a girl soon came out of the wood, whom she sent for a horse. Here my guide from Idre left me, and accompanied by the girl, and with another horse, I continued my way through the forest, crossing many swamps. After two hours we came to the Storbo-sjo, whose flat banks are cov- ered with reeds. She hailed a fisherman, who agreed to take me across in his boat, and bade me good-bye by a hearty shak- ing of the hand after she had received her pay. I was glad to land, for the boat was old, and leaked like a sieve. A few poor farms are scattered on the shores, in one of which I met two idiotic children, one having the goitre — the second case I had seen. At the Flotning-sjo I experienced an attempt at extortion very uncommon in this country. I spent the night there, having for supper only a bowl of sour milk ; on asking the 2G4 TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. price, old Jonas said, " one dollar." I declined to pay it ; and when I asked liini why he charged so much, he answered that he thought I had so much money that I did not know what to do with it, and he fell from one dollar to about twen- ty cents. It should be said that the owner of the farm w^as not at home. I crossed the Norwegian frontier without knowing it, and came to the poor hamlet of Drcvsjohytte, whence there is a road to Faeraund-sjo. The Foemund-sjo is 2150 feet above the sea, and thirty-five miles long ; its outlet, the river Klar (clear), flows into Lake Wenern. This beautiful sheet has peculiar sce- nery, not possessed by any other Norwegian or Swedish lake ; its shores are not abrupt, and in many places are thinly clad with fir and birch trees and fine reindeer-moss; the water is clear, contrasting singularly with that of the dark lakes we had passed, and swarms with fish. I saw several wild reindeer browsing upon its shores. About three miles from its south- ern extremity is a hamlet composed of four old farm-houses, one of which had been burned to the ground the winter before my arrival. The people were old-fashioned folks, who knew little of the outer world. Torbert Mikkelsen was the nabob of the place, and a fine old man he was; his ruddy face was sur- rounded by bushy whiskers gray with age ; he was dressed in knee-breeches, wdiite woollen stockings, double-breasted waist- coat with shining brass buttons, and a red Phrygian woollen cap. Berit, his wife, was as good as himself, and a true picture of an old matron ; her white hair was partly hidden under a graceful peculiar little black cap, -worn in that part of the country. The house was large and comfortable, the walls of the general room were painted green, and in one corner was the cheerful open fireplace. Old porcelain dishes and cups, heirlooms of the family, were on a sideboard, a lantern hung from one of the beams of the ceiling, and an old clock stood near the bed ; poles adorned Avith good family linen ; a table, two or three chairs, a couple of benches, a loom, and a spin- ning-wheel constituted the furniture. My bedroom was quaint. The walls were painted yellow (evidently old Torbert loved bright colors), with a red border about three feet from the LAKE MJOSEN. 205 floor, the ceiling yellowish white, and the cross-beams and my bedstead were red. Torbert was a thrifty farmer, and took pride in having everything in perfect order ; he owned eighteen cows, three horses, and thirty sheep ; his land was good, and his summer pasture excellent. When I left he would take no money, for I had giv^en a fine silk handkerchief to his wife, and was urged to come again. A row of about twenty miles took me to the north shore of the lake, which was reached after passing through swamp meadows, and where I remained for a day. The road to Roros went through a very picturesque coun- try, and here and there we met a few farms. Eoros, or Roraas, is a quiet little town of 1900 inhabitants, situated 2000 feet above the level of the sea, w^ith many comfortable houses painted red, and clean streets. It derives its chief impor- tance from the copper-mines, which were worked as far back as 1644. The Storvarts mines are at an elevation of 2800 feet. The Hitter River flow's through the centre of the town, the two parts of which are connected by picturesque wooden bridges of construction peculiar to Norway. The logs are supported by the filling at the ends, and also by the braces, as the engraving shows. From Roros I travelled leisurely down the Osterdal valley, often along the shores of the Glommen — the largest river of ]S'orwa3^ On the last day of August I entered the town of Ila- mar, on the shores of Lake Mjosen. It had a forlorn appear- ance ; grass was growing in its wide streets ; weeds clustered about the church, and the growth of the place seemed entirely checked. In former times it was of great importance, but M-as destroyed by the Swedes in 1567. Not far from it are interesting ruins — all that remains of its cathedral. The ]\Ijosen is the largest lake in Norway. It is four hun- dred feet above the sea, about sixty-six miles long, varying much in breadth, its widest part being ten miles. The greatest depth of water is two hundred and forty fathoms — much below the level of the sea. At the time of the great earthquake in 2GG TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Lisbon, in 1755, it rose suddenly twenty feet, and fell back al- most instantly to its level. In the spring it attains its largest volume, from which it falls eighteen to twenty feet. It has none of the weird aspect characteristic of Norwegian lakes, for the hills slope gently to the water, and are dotted with numerous farms and fields, churches and hamlets ; the scenery is pastoral, but not remarkable. Passenger steamers, and oth- ers for freight or towing logs, ply upon its waters. In sum- mer this trip is delightfuL Its chief places of importance are the small towns of Hamar, Gjovik, and Lillehammer. The old teacher of the free-school at Hamar reminded me of some old painting. He wore an old-fashioned frock-coat, a waistcoat buttoned to the neck, and queer-shaped high col- lar, surrounded by a thick white kerchief with a large clumsy knot. When we entered he was playing the violin. On the black-board the notes of the musical scale were chalked, with the words of a song below them, which the boj's and girls were singing to his accompaniment. The regions of the Mjosen and the Osterdal are among the finest agricultural districts of Norway. Many of the people could hardly be called peasants ; they had the air of Ameri- can farmers. They had large, comfortable, well-painted houses, furnislied with cushioned chairs, sofas, pianos, and books ; sur- rounded by pleasure-grounds, gardens with summer-houses, and fine barns. They took pleasure in improving their herds of cattle, sheep, and swine ; went every year with their fami- lies on a visit to Cliristiania, and set their tables in city fash- ion. Their linen was starched, and, in fact, many of them might be called gentlemen -farmers, fond of their horses, of fishing, and shooting, and only superintending the work done on their estates. At the upper end of the lake, on a high hill, is the quiet village of Lillehammer, consisting of three streets, the prin- cipal one crossing the river Mesna by a bridge. It contains about 1700 inhabitants, and is a centre of trade, as it stands at the beginning of the high-road to Trondhjem, at the ter- mination of the valley of Gudbrandsdal, of which the lake is a continuation; and there was a hospital — a well-built two- CUNNIXG OF STATION-HOUSES. 2G7 story log-liouse, with large rooms sixteen feet in height, witli six beds in each. There were only two patients. It was free to those who were unable to pay, and was under the direction of the government doctor. The bath-rooms and the kitchen were very clean, and it was exceedingly creditable to those who had it in charge. I was particularly fortunate in seeing the " Fall " of Lille- hammer, as the stream was much swollen by rains, and de- scended in magnificent cascades. The river Mesna, for sev- eral hundred yards, tumbled down from a height of hundreds of feet in a sheet of white foam, and in one place passed through a channel only ten feet wide; while the current of air sent the spray flying above the trees and meadows to a great distance. Though far more south than Trondhjem stift, the harvest in this part of Norway is more backward even than beyond the arctic circle. In the first week in September I saw a great deal of rye and barley still uncut ; and in the garden of the doctor a few cherries were still on the trees ; currants and gooseberries were ripe, and the apple-trees were loaded with fruit. Once more I found myself driving towards the transverse valleys of the Gudbrandsdal. The weather was now beauti- ful. I was jolting along slowly, for at the end of the summer season the horses are completely worn out. I had one which, with all my coaxing, would hardly go more than three miles an hour. These station-horses, when there is so much travel- ling, are very cunning, and are trained to go but four or five miles an hour. They seem to laugh at the harmless whip which is given to the traveller, who gets tired before they do. My main object in coming so late was to see the old farm- houses. In some of the narrow valleys the harvest was further advanced than in broader ones. The people were busy digging potatoes — men, women, and children being em- ployed ; these were assorted as they were gathered, the small- er being put aside for the swine, and the otliers spread out to dry before being stored in a dark cellar. Every farm had many extra hands, often employed only to help the poor neighbors ; but the pay was very small— the men getting only 2G8 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. twelve, and the women eight skillings per day, with food : many preferred being paid in potatoes. It was a busy time for the farmer's wife and her maid in the kitchen, for many extra months had to be fed. Bread was made in great quan- tity, the loaves being of such a size that one was given to each man for his allowance on bread-day. Ironing is done in a very particular manner: the articles are carefully wrapped around a wooden roller, about four inches in diameter and two and a half feet long, and smoothed by an implement call- ed a mangle, of the same size, graceful in sliape, elaborately carved, and somewhat resembling a carpenter's plane. In the Gudbrandsdal valley the farms vary considerably in size ; the houses were of one story, with covered porch, consisting of the main room, with two smaller ones, and of a guest-house. The people are poor indeed, some of them pos- sessing neither land nor cows, and having to work by the day ; but, I repeat, one never meets any emaciated from hunger; they are strong and healthy, though living on coarse bread, potatoes, sour milk, and now and then butter, but rarely tast- ing meat. Leaving the highway just above Laurgaard, in the wild Hus- ton gorge, I followed a rude mountain-road along the Ilovring- dal, which led to the mountains where the sseters of that name were situated. The ascent was continuous ; at a height of four thousand feet the firs were still fine ; I do not know of any other part of Norway where these trees grow at such an elevation. My astonishment was still greater, after reaching the plateau, to see several fields where rye and barley had been harvested. The situation of the Ilovring soeters is one of the finest in I^orway; there were thirty-five of them, but most of these were deserted, with the doors of the houses strongly fastened. The silence which reigned over these places, and the faded color of the grass, plainly showed that the summer had departed, and that the winter storms would soon blow fiercely over the mountains. I know of no place in Norway so easy of access, and which combines so many advantages for invalids, as this saeter. Visitors can walk long distances without getting into bogs or ascending tiresome hills; GREAT NUMBER OF LEMMINGS. 269 and horseback rides can be taken to a height of ahnost five thousand feet. On the 13th of September we had a foretaste of the winter. The wind blew a gale at times, accompanied by heavy show- ers ; but towards night tiie sky suddenly cleared, and the weather became quite cold ; before sunset snow fell. Three men came here with two carts, loaded with ploughs, axes, and other implements of husbandry ; they had been sent to plough some of the fields for the following year, and on their depart- ure were to convey to the farm all the butter and cheese which had been produced during the season, and such articles as were not to be left at tlie sa^ter during the winter. They arrived just in time to cut a fresh supply of firewood for cheese- making; they wore their best clothes, for, of course, they wanted on their arrival to appear well to the girls of the Salter: one was desperately in love with Ingeborg, but she did not seem in the least to reciprocate it. They lost no time, but put on their working-garments ; in the evening Ingeborg left them in possession of her s?eter, and came to spend the night at ours. In the morning the mercury stood at 23°. There was not a cloud in the sky, and the air was still ; long icicles were hang- ing around the roofs of the houses, and the ice was nearly half an inch thick on the shores of the stream where the water was quiet. The following day the few occupants of the s^eters were to return to their farms. I reluctantly bade farewell to Marit, Britte, and Ingeborg, and wended my way alone to tlie valley. The number of lemmings {Myodes lemmui) I met on the road and in the mountains was enormous; many had been trampled by horses' feet or crushed by the wheels of vehicles ; and, while walking, I stepped continually upon them. They resemble very much a field-mouse ; are about five or six inches long, of reddish-brown color, with blackish stripes, thick bodies, and short legs. Twice during my travels in Scandinavia I had met them in untold numbers, covering vast tracts of country on their migration from north-west to south-east, on their way to the sea, in wliicli multitudes are drowned. Their niiirra- 270 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. tion is periodical, and always from the north ; they live in the mountains, and nothing seems to stop them on their onward march except insurmountable obstacles. They live in holes, I have met them as far as 70° 30' North. Where they have passed, the country is bare ; the grass, the moss, the leaves, and even the branches of the dwarf-birch and willow are eaten up. In the valley of Selsdal there are several farms near its junction with Gudbrandsdal. Among the principal ones is Ulsvold, which I had hardly entered when home-made beer was brought to me in a solid silver tankard — an heirloom in the family for several generations. While I was drinking, the district doctor made his appearance, having travelled a long distance in a drenching storm. Ilis arrival caused a great stir in the household. A pair of new thick stockings was immediately handed to him to replace his wet ones, and a cup of fresh coffee was prepared. It would have been a breach of hospitality if he had been allowed to depart without hav- ing food or refreshment offered. How primitive is the love-making in many of the regions of Scandinavia ! One evening while at a farm, the old folks, the rest of the family, and myself were awakened by knoek- ings at the door, and we heard a voice which we recognized as that of one of the many suitors to the hand of the fair daugh- ter of the house. The following dialogue took place : "Sigrid, will you not open the door for me ?" No sound was heard from within ; more gentle knockings and supplications ; the maiden still remained silent. "Sigrid," continued the lover, "you are such a nice girl ! you know that if I did not admire you I would not come so far to see you ! can you be so hard- hearted as to send me away ? There are no girls in the parish I admire so much as yourself. Please, please open the door ; the wind is chilly; I am very tired; I come only to talk a little while with you, then I will go away." Sigrid at last relented, and he was admitted. OLD FARM-BUILDINGS. 271 CHAPTEE XXY. Old Farm -Buildings. — Great Durability of Norwegian Log-houses. — Antiquity of many Norwegian Farms. — Runic Inscription found upon Houses. — Primitive Fireplaces. — Houses without Chimneys. — The Rogovn the next most Primitive Fireplace. — Introduction of Chimneys. — The Pels, another Form of Fireplace. — Improvements in Buildings. — New Forms of Houses. — The Xystue, or New House. — Increase of Buildings on a Farm. — Different Use of Houses. — Introduc- tion of Corridors and Covered Piazzas. — Great Care in the Construction of Houses. — The Ramloft House. — The Barfro House. — The Opstugu House. — Age of some Ancient Stone Churches. — An Old House in Valders. Theee are no houses of Mediaeval Europe that can rival in antiquity the fann-buildings of IS^orwaj ; their log walls, which have stood tlie wear of centuries, have proved more durable than those of stone; they seem to defy the ravages of time. They were built of fir-trees from the primitive for- ests, and some of them date back before the year 1000, and from the seventh and eighth centuries ; and some even are of older and unknown ages. The timber has become so hard- ened that the axe has hardly any effect upon it, for the resin has been absorbed by the fibres of the wood. The logs are often of great width, showing a size of trees not at present prevalent in Scandinavia, Several of these old houses are found with Runic inscriptions — among them one in Numeda- len, on the farm Raudland, in Opdals parish, high up in the mountains: here the door-posts are ornamented with carv- ings like those seen on the stave churches ; and in the tim- ber over tlie door is written the name of the builder, with " Thorgaut built me." Many of these old farms have remained in the possession of the same family from that remote period to this day, and in this respect exceeding in age any other landed estates in Europe. The reason why Norway can boast of so many 272 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. very old houses is that its inaccessible mountains have been secured from the devastation of wars ; and when these took place, the conflicts were chiefly on the water or on the shores of the sea. As there are, within the historic period at least, no remains of buildings anterior to these of wood, it is prob- able that the earlier inhabitants of Scandinavia lived in tem- porary structures; their houses were probably made of turf, perhaps variously combined with wood or stone, which have disappeared from decay or various disturbances of the surface. As the people advanced in civilization — the country being covered in most parts with forests — they began to build wood- en dwellings. Most all of those ancient houses are situated in valleys and dales, which, but a few years ago, were accessible only by bri- dle-paths, and often in out-of-the-way places, chiefly inland — in the Hedemarken, Hallingdal, Sastersdal, Pledal, Yaage, and Lorn, in Hardanger and in Jggderen. To this day the life of the people of these regions is most primitive. It was always a source of pleasure not only to study the in- habitants of the valleys, but also to look at the weather-beaten houses, to see their interior arrangements, and to trace step by step the improvements that have taken place in the art of building. The most ancient form was called the ildhus (house with a fireplace), or rdfjstue (house without chimney, rog meaning smoke). They are yet found, though very rarely, in differr cut parts of the country. Another building, 5wr, hod^ or mnat- hod, where the food and clothing were kept, stood near. The ildhus contained only one room, with a stone hearth in the centre of the floor ; in the roof above was a large open- ing called Ijo7'e (light-hole), for the smoke to escape. In bad weather, when the hole was partly shut, the smoke became al- most unbearable. The hearth is about six feet long and four feet wide ; some- times a high flat stone is put up endways on the side towards the door, designed to prevent the gusts of wind from blowing too hard on the fire. The cooking-pot or boiling-kettle hangs from a swingino^ beam. In one house of this kind in Eken PRIMITIVE FIREPLACES. 273 parish this beam ends in a dragon's head as an ornament. The furniture in such a house was and is of the simplest descrip- tion : a couple of fixed bedsteads, fastened to the wall ; a long table, usually of a single board surrounded by benches, attach- ed to the wall, and a few wooden chairs. These are very an- cient, and made of the trunks of single trees (as shown in the engraving) of peculiar form, and are still used in many places. FIKE-H0U6E, WITH AABE (UEABTIl). The next most primitive form of fireplace in the rogstue was called rogovn. In front of the hole is a projection of the masonry, and when the wood is burned out the embers are raked into a little recess on this shelf, thus allowing the heat to radiate into the room. The rogovn is a piece of stone- work of the height of a man, and wide enough to admit of a bed being placed on the side of it. When the rogovnstue is to be heated in the winter, it is done in the following manner: In the morning a suitable quantity of wood is put into the oven — preferably branches, as they burn more fiercely, and throw out the heat quickest; the wood having been piled care- fully, so as to give a good draught, the flame soon issues from VOL. II. T 274 THE LAND OF TUE MIDNIGHT SUN. BO&OVN (SMaKE-OVEN). FIEEPLA.OE WITUOUI OUIMNEY. the opening of the oven and runs up along the sooty roof in a, manner to frighten any one not accustomed to it. When the tire has burned down the embers are raked out on the shelf, as above stated. These consumed less fuel, and were used near the coast, where wood was scarce — the first being more common inland. The next improvement, and a great one, was the open fireplace with chim- ney. This form was called pels, sjnSy ovn, grue, mwr, sten, and skorsten, in dif- ferent parts of the country ; it is open, with a flue for cari7- ing off the smoke. In the year 1493 an inspection was made on the king's farm in Jemtland, which at that time was a Norwegian prov- ince ; and in the record from the same it is mentioned that the last tenant had built a new dwelling-house, with sTcorsteii (chimney, or open fireplace) and all belonging to it. This skorsten was undoubtedly the same as the present pels — standing in the every-day room, and used both for cooking, warming, and lighting it ; and this is the earliest informa- tion found of that kind of fireplace in Norway. The latter is placed at some distance from the wall, and is open on two sides, as shown in the engraving. Sometimes a pels is found in the room up-stairs, so that guests in winter could have a warm sleeping-room. This peis is the form of open fire- place still found everywhere. As is seen in some of the pict- ures of the book, it is almost always at the corner of a room. No other form will throw out such an amount of heat; but it consumes a great quantity of wood. In many districts, as wood became scarce, stoves of tiles or iron were introduced. The tile-stove, of which we have spoken before, is of much more recent origin — probably by several A DESCRIPTION OF OLDEX TIMES. THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. beautiful shield of the great eiuperor Charles V., which was taken in Prague when that city was sacked by the Swedes. The state apartments are hung with old tapestry — the gift of Louis XIY. of France ; others are hung with gilt skins. A great delight is the old-fashioned chimney, reaching to the ceiling, with beautifully- carved armorial designs. The walls are adorned with portraits, Venetian mirrors, cabinets inlaid with ivory, amber, and blood-stone; china and great KNUTBY OIIUEOII, IN UPLAND. numbers of objects of art are arranged in huge cabinets in the so-called King's Hall, the ceiling of which is a masterpiece of the plasterer's art. In historical paintings Skokloster ranks next to Gripsholm. The collection of portraits here also is very tine, including the THE PROVINCE OF SODEBMANLAND. 327 families of Wrangel, Brahe, Koaigsmark, and Bjelke. There is a splendid library, containing over 30,000 volumes, and many valuable manuscripts and letters, among which is one of Erik XI Y., in which he orders negotiations for a marriage with Mary Stuart, which he denied when he wished to wed the English queen, Elizabeth. One is never wearied in looking at the wonderful treasures : nearly every object has a tale to tell. From the paintings we return to the cabinets, and back again to the paintings, being loath to part from this most fascinating collection, which it is hoped will never leave the country. "We will bid adieu to the Malar, upon whose shores we have lingered many a day dreaming of the past. From the Malar some time may be spent pleasantly in visit- ing the castles, chateaux, and churches of Upland, many of which are full of interest. The province of Sodermanland is bounded on the north by the southern shores of the Malar, and partly on the west by Lake Hjelmar. The landscape is in many districts well wood- ed and picturesque, with lakes and streams in every direction ; the coniferous forests of the north are often replaced by ti-ees of a greater variety, the foliage of which adds to the beauty of the country. The linden, the elm, and the horse-chestnut at- tain large growth, while the oaks are often of superb size ; many of the hills and dales are clad with those pre-eminent- ly Scandinavian trees, the birch and the fir. In the western part of the province — Wingaker — most of the people still ad- here to their national costume, which is for the men composed of a long woollen white homespun coat, coming down to the ankle, with crimson bar lining, blue cuffs, leather knee-breech- es, and short waistcoats. The women's head-dress is a high red roll, which on Sunday is covered with a ruffled cap of varied colors and forms, according as the wearer is maiden, betrothed, wife, or mother. Numerous estates are scattered here and there, with fine old chateaux situated in lovely retired spots. On the eastern end of the Hjelmaren is the magnificent estate of Stora Sundby, belonging to the family of De Geer. The castle is imposing, with turrets ; tlie apartments are of royal splendor. 328 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Near Wingfiker is Siifstaliohii, entailed in the family of Bonde. The chateau is surrounded by rural scenery; its apartments are adorned with Italian and Dutch paintings, and others of great merit ; the library is very valuable, and some of the archives date back to 1300. 6T0R.\ SITNDUY, IN 80T>EEM\NLANT). The finest estate, not only in regard to size, but on account also of its beautiful situation, and grand ancestral home, is Eriksberg, which is entailed in another branch of the family of Bonde. The castle, which is abont two hundred years old, occupies a commanding position on a hill overlooking the charming little Eriksberg Lake. The main building, showing unmistakable traces of the master-hand of Tessin, is of stone, three stories high, with ground -floor and four wings. Its rooms contain choice objects of art from the period during which it was built. The south-western wing includes a richly and tastefully decorated chapel. The elegant halls are orna- mented with valuable portraits and paintings. The former TRE CHATEAU OF ERIKSBERG. 329 so-called audience-hall is now occupied bj a library of 10,000 volumes — as regards Scandinavian history, one of the most complete in Sweden. The grounds are in harmony with the whole. Between the two southern wings rises the castle ter- race, ornamented with statues, and directly in front of tliis is a bronze fountain. Bounded on two sides by shady old linden alleys, a spacious lawn stretches in front of the castle with flower groups, hosques, und parterres. One of the most prettily-situated estates of this province is that of Sparreholm, on the shores of the charming little Lake BMven. Its mansion, although it cannot compare in grandeur with some others, presents to the visitor a most cheerful and inviting appearance. It has a fine library, a collection of coins, and also some good paintings of native and foreign masters. A few miles distant is the interesting old chateau of Sten- hammar. It lies by Lake Valdemaren, surrounded by extensive parks, in which may be seen stately old oaks and other decidu- ous trees. The beauty of the place is greatly enhanced by the ever-changing panorama of the lake, with its maze of islets and winding passages. The estate is mentioned as early as the year 1300. The whole neighborhood is one of the most charm- ing in Scidermanland, and is rich in memorials from by-gone days. 330 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XXX. Across Sweden by Water. — Interesting Water-route. — The Gota Canal. — From the Malar to the Baltic. — Osrao Church. — Soderkoping. — Lake Roxen. — Ruins of Stjernarp. — Wreta Church. — Tombs of the Tenth Century. — The Boren Lake. — The Estate of Ulfasa. — A Story of the Past. — Lake Wettern or Vettern. — The Town of Vadstena. — The Cloister of Vadstena. — St. Birgitta. — Its Monks. — High Birth of its Nuns. — The Church of Vadstena. — Tomb of Queen Philippa of Eng- land and others. — Bo Jousson. — Immense Wealth of Bo Jonsson. — Karl Niklas- son. — His Death. — Bo Jonsson's Tomb. — The Castle of Vadstena. — Alvastra. — Jonkoping, Grenna. — Visingso Island. — From Carlsborg Inland. — Lake Viken. — Lake Ymsen. — Scandinavia's largest Lake. — Towns on the Wcnern. — The Church of Rada- Karlstad. — The Iron-works of Uddeholms. — Kinnekulle. — The Chateau of Borstorp. — Ancient Jewels. — The Church of Husaby. — Olaf Skcit- konung. — Kollandsi). — The Falls of Trollhiittan. — Terminus of the Canal. A CHARMING summer journey is that of crossing tlie penin- sula, from sea to sea, by the Gota Canal and the lakes connect- ing the Baltic with the N^orth Sea. Linger here and there in the midst of the romantic scenery found on the banks of some lonely river, or on the shores of lovely lakes ; tarry awhile in some clean, quiet, thrifty town, with castle, cathe- dral, or church dating from mediaeval times ; visit some spot where remains of the stone and bronze age are to be found ; and stop at some old chateau which brings recollections of the by-gone centuries. This beautiful water-way, crossing the central part of Swe- den, is about 259 miles long, with 74 locks ; the highest level reached is 308 feet 2 inches, on the Lake Viken, between the Wettern and the Wenern. The canal is 10 feet deep, gen- erally 48 feet wide at the bottom and 88 feet at the sur- face; the locks are 123 feet in length and 24 feet in width; there are more than 30 bridges over its course. The traffic is considerable, the number of vessels cleared from the l^orth Sea to the Wenern averaging yearly betw^een six and seven thousand, and between the lake and the Baltic about three THE ESTATE OF TLLLGAIIX. 331 thousand. This superb work shows iu several instances great engineering skill ; in many places locks after locks are cut out of solid granite hills. The construction is made to last, and the banks have been so built that they are secured against dangers from steam navigation. Comfortable steamers make the journey direct, and are generally two or three days on the way, according to the number of stoppages to discharge or take cargoes ; others ply on their respective lakes from one city to another, stopj^ing at intermediate places. From Stockholm the steamer follows the southern sliore of the Malar to Telge-viken, and ere long enters the Sodertelge Canal, which connects the lake with the Baltic. Down the 6UIP OAEKYINa ST. EKIK TO I'lNLAND. fjord, and not far from the shore, about sixteen miles south of Sodertelge, is the old and interesting church of Osmo, wliich possesses many very old and grotesque paintings; one of them represents the devil as the people believed him to be in those days. Beyond is the royal chateau of Tulhjarn, an imposing edifice, surrounded by parks and gardens, luxuriously decorated by the Swedish artist Ilillerstrom. The estate, which formerly belonged to some of Sweden's most famous noble families, such as Brahe, Bonde, Sture, Oxenstjerna, and De la Gardie, was in 1772 sold to the Crown, and has since been used as a summer residence for members of the royal family. To the south, one enters the Sliitbaken fjord, and soon after 332 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. looms up the tower of Stegeborg, a fine niin by the sea. The former castle was mentioned in the thirteenth century, when King Birger used it as his residence. In its early history it was many times besieged — taken and retaken by Swedes and Danes. The tower is the only portion remaining. About ten miles from Stegeborg the entrance to the Gota Canal is reached. Three miles beyond is the small town of Soderkoping, once a place of considerable importance, and boasting in olden times of a castle, four churches, and two monasteries; of its churches only two remain, St. Lars and St. Drothems. Continuing the journey, at about fifteen miles from the sea the boat enters the charming Koxen, with its wooded and hilly shores. The lake is 109 feet above the Baltic, has a length of about 15 and a breadth of between 6 and 7 miles. It has three considerable streams — the Motala, the outlet of Lake Wettern, the SvartEn, and the Stang^n. Along its shores are a number of large estates. Among the historical ruins are those of Stjernarp, formerly the dwelling of the Scotch earl, Kobert Douglas, who entered Gustavus Adolphus's service in 1631, and by his military genius rose to great distinction. The castle was built in 1654, and withstood the ravages of time well, until a fire in May, 1789, laid it in ashes. It lies in a magnificent situation overlooking the lake and surrounded by trees. The two wings escaped destruction ; in one of them is the chapel, and the other is still occupied. The court-yard is apparently square. On the north side the ruin is four stories in height, with nine windows in width, and the middle part, with three windows, rises two stories higher. In the portal one can see traces of the beauty of the old building. On the eastern shore of the lake, at the port of Berg, the canal is continued, and sixteen locks have to be passed, which makes the ascent tedious. Overlooking the lake near Berg is the Wreta church, built on the ruins of the old monastery which belonged to the Benedictines, and later to the Ber- nardines, who sent out nuns all over the country. Here are the tombs of Inge the younger, who reigned between 1118 and 1130, and his queen, Helena ; of King Ragwald Knap- hofde (1130-1133), belonging to the Stenkil, and King Valde- A BIT OF HISTORY. 333 mar Birgersson, of the Folkunga dynasties, besides other men great in their daj', but now forgotten. In the Folkunga family was a renowned chieftain, Folke Digre (the stout), who died about 1100; his posterity be- came very powerful. One of his great-grandsons was Birger Jarl, who for a long time governed Sweden with a strong hand, and was the founder of Stockholm. His son Valdemar, who in 1250 became first King of Sweden through his father, was so only in name. The descendants occupied the Swedish throne until 1389. The canal skirts the shores of the Kungs Norrby Lake, which is below, and beyond this enters the Boren Lake, 245 feet above the sea, and 136 above the Koxen, which we have left behind. This charming sheet of water is about nine miles long, clear as crystal, and with beautiful shores. In Ekby- borna church -tower is seen the chamber where St. Birgitta dwelt. Near by is the old estate of Ulfasa, which belonged to the Folkunga family in the twelfth century. Among the his- torical facts connected with them is one that is most pleasant- ly remembered, as follows : Bengt, a brother of the powerful Birger Jarl, was lagman (judge) of Ostergotland, and lived at Ulfasa. All the other brothers of the family had married women of the highest no- bility, and thus satisfied the pride of Bii-ger Jarl. Bengt, however, had fallen in love with a young girl of a family of much less repute, but of such uncommon beauty that she was generally called Sigrid the Fair. He had also married her clandestinely, which greatly angered the proud Jarl. He therefore sent Sigrid, as a wedding present, a cloak, half of which was made of gold cloth, while the other half was of coarse woollen material (vadmal), in order to thereby signify how little suitable was a union between two persons of such unequal stations, as was the case with Sigrid and Bengt. As an answer Bengt returned the cloak to the Jarl, after first having had the vadmal portion covered with gold, pearls, and pre- cious stones, so that this part of the cloak became much more valuable than the other. Birger, still further enraged by this constancy of his brother, promised to come and have a talk :]34 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. with Bengt himself, and soon after journeyed to UlfS,sa. Wlien Bengt heard of his coming he went away from liome, and told Sio-rid to receive the Jarl. She therefore dressed herself in a manner to heighten her great charms. On the arrival of Bir- ger, Sigrid met him, greeted him most reverently, and bade liim welcome. When the Jarl saw her, he was so enchanted by her beauty, and modest though dignified demeanor, that he forgot all his anger, embraced and then kissed her, saying that if his brother had left this undone, he would have to do it himself. Bengt was now sent for, and the brothers were reconciled. Bengt had by Sigrid a daughter, called Ingeborg, who was married to Birger Persson Brahe of Finsta, lagman of Upland. Their daughter was Birgitta, who afterwards be- came a seeress and prophetess, and founded the cloister of Yadstena, and finally was made a saint : people even from foreign lands came in pilgrimage to her tomb. In the cathedral of Upsala is shown to this day the slab un- der which Birger Persson and Ingeborg were buried. The in- scription, which commences at the left foot of Birger, reads: " Here lie the noble knight Sir Birger Persson, Upland's lag- man, and his wife, Lady Ingeborg, with their children ; whose souls may rest in peace. Pray for us." On the shield is seen the coat-of-arms of Birger (two down-turned wings), and on the sides of the stone his seven children, with their names. Sir Birger died in 1328, and his wife. Lady Ingeborg, in 1314. During the oldest times the people were their own judges in their Things, their lagman explaining the laws to them. Later, this lagman, who was chosen by the people, but whose office often descended from father to son, acted as judge, as well as speaker in the Things within the provinces ; and for his decision were submitted a multitude of questions, not only judicial, but also purely economical. Gradually the kings as- sumed the right of appointing the lagman, and the functions of his office changed, until they became purely judicial, correspond- ing with those of the present hdradshofdings (district judges). The royal jury (Jcungsndmoid), similar to the present hd- radsndmnd (district jury), formerly in some instances judged cases in place of the king, without his presence or that of any INDEPENDENCE OF THE OLD PEOVINCES. 335 one in his stead. Their number was twelve in each judicial district. The ruler during those times travelled around in the different provinces, and personally heard and judged cases submitted to him. Every province then was an independent oRgee -PRO j^is-t^eo/ eivs » yxSoa BLAB OVER TIIK GE.WE OF LAG.MAJJ BIEGER PEKSSON AND U18 WIFE, I^'GEBOBG. state, which had its own laws and its separate taxation ; and the king on his accession to the throne had to go to every one of them separately, and there receive the oath of allegiance of their diiferent populations. Just as the kingdom was a union 336 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. of independent states or provinces, every province was a union of smaller districts ; while the district was a union of several families, who joined together for mutual protection. The members of the family not only had a common origin, but also were joined togetlier for mutual assistance and respon- sibility. If one member was killed, the whole kindred was obliged to avenge his death, and had the right to receive an indemnity in lieu thereof, which in the latter case was dis- tributed equally between the members. The land was divided in the same manner; but in case of a sale the relatives of the seller had the first right of bid- ding in the property. These free owners of the land were the safeguards of society ; over them stood at the end of the heathen age only the jarlar (earls) and the king. It is the general idea that the inhabitants of Sweden in olden times enjoyed a complete political equality ; this is, however, a mis- take ; for among them, as other nations, only the free possess- or of the soil, who had not entered the military service of any one, had complete political rights. Leaving the Boren, the ascent is by five connecting locks. The distance between the lake and the Yettern is about two miles, and presents most charming views. On the south of the water-way runs the outlet of Vettern, the Motala Eiver forming occasionally small falls, which set mills and forges in motion. Motala is near the mouth of the Gota Canal on Lake Vettern, and is a village of some 1800 inliabitants, not counting the employes of the iron works a little higher up in its course. These works have the largest machine-shops in Sweden, and are of great importance to the country ; they em- ploy about 1700 people ; for whom are established schools, dwelling-houses, hospitals, etc. Twelve miles north of Mo- tala are, in an exceedingly pretty neighborhood, the mineral springs of Medevi. Tliese waters were known as early as the first periods of Christianity, but did not attract general notice until 1674, when they were opened for the public. Medevi resembles a little town, with church, post-office, hos- pital, a large number of dwellings for patients, fine parks, promenades, etc. TEE CLOISTER OF VABSTENA. 337 The Yettern is the second largest lake in Scandinavia ; it has a length of 8-i miles, and in its widest part a breadth of over 20 ; its level is 297 feet above the Baltic, and its greatest depth is 427 feet, showing its bottom to be much below the sea-line. It is fed by a large number of small streams. It is so clear and blue that when smooth it looks like a mirror of blue glass. But the mariner at times dreads its surface, which is very sensitive, and without warning is often stirred up without any apparent cause. It is also noted for its eddies, whirlpools, and mirages. It is encircled by four provinces — Nerike, Ostergotland, Smiland, and Yes- tergotland. It has but few islands, the largest being Yisingso. Upon the shores are five towns — Yadstena, Grenna, Jonko- ping, Askersund, and Hjo. On the eastern shore, a few miles south, is the famous town of Yadstena, with 2500 inhabitants ; it exports grain, lumber, iron, and spirits. The place, celebrated in old Catholic times, had a cloister in the eleventh century. In 1383 a tine mon- astery was founded by St. Birgitta (St. Birgit), and consecrated with great ceremony. This establishment was then the rich- est one in Sweden, receiving gifts of money and land from all parts of the countr3^ To be buried within its precincts insured the entrance into heaven, and large offerings were given for that object. The con.vent of Yadstena was in constant communication with Italy. The house in Rome in which Birgitta had dwelt had been given to these monks, and was often used by them and their people during their visits to the holy city. But the intercourse was not limited to travels by its monks. From Florence came, in 1405, a request that it should send some one to the latter city to found a Birgittine cloister, which later was called Paradise. Pilgrimages were made to the shrine from foreign countries ; and these pious devotees, who always left some token of their visit, greatly increased the wealth of the fathers. The Swedish clergy and monks during these times consisted mostly of sons from the families of common people, or at least not from the higher strata of society. Among the nuns it was, however, quite different ; for many of the sisters VOL, II, z 33S THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. wci-G danghters of the high nobility. The nuns of Vadstena convent were, however, not of Swedish birth onl}^, but many WANVlVViX'K SLAB OVEK TUE GRAVE OF QDEEN PlllLIPPA. were from Denmark, Norway, and surrounding countries. The noble families showed their concern for the place by acquir- ing the right of having their remains buried within the holy OLD AND INTERESTIXa TOMBS. 339 precincts of its church. It was not the intention that the cloister should become rich in silver and gold ; but presents were nevertheless not refused. Queen Philippa gave to the church two golden crowns, ornamented with precious stones, the value of which was 1771 marks, a golden necklace, a gold- en girdle, and a golden tablet worth 1080 marks. In 1412 it received from the two brothers, Sten and Ture Bjelke, a shrine for preserving the bones of St. Birgitta, made out of pure sil- ver, weighing 428f marks, worth at that time about $40,000 of our present money — a very large sum. The wealth of the nobles at that period must have been enormous, for it is mentioned that Karl Knutsson at a feast had on his table 1400 silver plates, besides innumerable other ornaments of gold and silver. The monks and nuns lived well in those days. It is re- corded that twenty-five moidcs and one hundred and sixty nuns consumed yearly 480 bushels of rye, 96 bushels of wheat, 1152 bushels of malt, 192 bushels of barley, 26 barrels of butter, 120 oxen, 300 sheep, 3600 pounds of pork, 2000 pounds of cheese, a large amount of fish, and other things in proportion. Among the interesting remains of the cloister is the church of St. Birgitta — built of cut blue stone, and in good order — begun in 1395 and finished in 1424. It is 220 feet long, 110 wide, and 55 high, and had formerly a square chancel to the west, and entrances to the east. To this day, in spite of the many changes it has undergone, the greater part of the floor of the church is composed of slabs engraved with the coat- of-arms of the nobles who had their places of burial there. Here are the remains of Queen Philippa of England and the beautiful Katarina, the first the queen of Erik XIIL, who reigned 1396-1439, and the last of Charles VIII., 1448-1457. The inscription on Queen Philippa's gravestone is the follow- ing in Latin: "Here rests her Highness Queen Philippa, wife of Erik, formerly King of Sweden, Gcitaland, Denmark, and Korway, and Duke of Pomerania — daughter of Henry lY., King of England, France, and Ireland — who died on the 5th of January, 1430." Formerly St. Birgitta and her daughter, St. Katarina, were z 2 ;54() THE LAM) OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. hiid ill a heavy silver sliriiie, but King John III. melted it for coining money ; now these are preserved in a casket covered with red velvet. Great men of their day, Gustaf Olofson iStcnbock, Josse Eriksson, and others are here buried. Prince Magnus, the insane son of Gustaf Wasa, lies under a fine monument, supported by fourteen Corinthian pillars. VAIlRTENA OlUmCII. Among the notable persons here entombed is Bo Jonsson Grip, who died in 138G, and left the greatest fortune ever owned by any man in Sweden. At his death he possessed Xjkopings Castle with South-eastern Sodermanland ; Stock- holm Castle, and South-eastern Upland; a part of Vestman- land, with the niining districts and Dalarne ; Kalmar Castle, and the greater part of the present Kalmar liin ; Aby, Yiborg, Easeborg, Tavastehus, and Korsholms castles, with the whole of Finland; Oresten and Opensten castles — also Mark and Kind districts of Vestergotland ; Forsholms Castle, and part of the southern shore of the Wennern. He further owned the whole of Norrland (in which at that time was not reckoned Gestrickland), Eingstadholm, and other castles, with a large part of (")stergr)tland ; Stiikeholm Castle, with Tjust district in A VERY liWH MAX. o41 Smaiand ; Ydre and Kind districts in Ostcrgotland ; and Paini- laborg Castle, with Northern Sraaiand and JunkOping. Besides these were large estates all over the kingdom, partly inherited. INTERIOR OF VAD6TENA CUT7K0H. partly acquired ; and one may imagine the extent of his wealth in personal property w^hen told that he willed away 57,500 ounces of silver, which at that time was a fabulous fortune ; 342 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. and also an immense amount of ready money. He also owned Gripsliolm, which got its name from him. No private man ever had so much land in Enrope. There was not much of the country left for the king, and of this great slices were in the hands of other men. The reputation of Bo Jons- son reached even outside of Sweden. Once he declared war on the powerful Hanseatic town of Dantzic, and Liibeck's burghers advised its council to make peace with him. REFECTOKY IN VAD8TENA OLOISTEB. In 1383 this extraordinary man made his will, wherein he left all bis liefs and a part of his estates in trust to ten persons, Avho should manage all this until the debts which he had incurred on behalf of the kingdom were paid. AVith these fiefs his law- ful heirs should have nothing to do. He was so anxious that this provision should be enforced, that he selected alternates, who should serve in case any of the original trustees died. Though he had inherited great wealth, he during his life used all sorts of means for increasing the same. "When bis first M-ife, Margaretha Porse, died pregnant, he caused her to BO JONSSON. 343 be opened in the presence of witnesses to show that her child was still alive; and he, according to Swedish law, inherited her property through her child, which had, however, never been born. The clergy considered this act a great sin, and Bishop [Nils, of Linkoping, sharply took him to task therefor. To appease- him, Bo Jonsson gave to Vadstena cloister twelve farms and two hundred and fifty marks in money. iiMMBln^SpSMS^llipBliSfii! CUUOIFIX. C^KVEI) IN Wo 111, IN VAUKTENA OllLRCI. Bo Jonsson had raised and educated a poor young noble- man, Karl Niklasson, and also had him kniglited on account of his prowess, and manly and noble qualities. He also gave him tlie estate of Fiirla, and many others in Ostergotland and SU THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. other provinces. This youth was betrothed to a beautiful young girl by the name of Margaretha, her father being a noble°nan by the name of Lambert Eriksson, living on his estate of Rimstad, on the shores of Lake Roxen. One day Bo Jonsson happened to see her, and at once be- came enamored, and demanded her in marriage from her par- ents ; they did not dare to refuse the all-powerful Riksdrots (chancellor of the realm), who sent the lover away on busi- ness, and married the girl during his absence. When the young knight returned and found he had been robbed of his most precious treasure by his benefactor, his wrath knew no bounds, and he went up to Bo Jonsson's residence in Stock- holm, and, appearing before his former betrothed, accused her of having betrayed him. She, however, pleaded with him most earnestly, and showed him that she could have acted in no oth- er way, and at the same time exacted of him a promise that he never would draw sword against Bo Jonsson. After hav- ing done this she gave him her hand, and he kneeled, cover- ins: it with most fervent kisses. At this moment Bo Jonsson entered, and seeing the young knight in such a position, ac- cused him of trying to seduce his wife, and drew his sword, calling upon Karl to defend himself. But the latter, true to his promise, refused to draw against his former protector, and retired through the door into the hall-way and thence into the street, followed by the enraged chancellor. Thinking he would be safe in the church, he ran into the cloister of the Gray friars — the present Iliddarholms church — closely pursued by Bo Jonsson, who, beside himself with rage, forgot the re- spect due to the sanctity of the place. At the high altar he came up to Karl, and gave the latter thrust after thrust, until he fell a corpse on the floor beside the sanctuary. This sacri- legious murder caused the deepest indignation ; and in order to gain the pardon of the Chnrcli, Bo Jonsson had to give 1200 marks to Upsala Cathedral, 600 to Linkoping, 500 to Strengnas, 500 to YesterSs, and 600 to Abo ; he gave, also, five marks to the church in every parish where he had estates, besides five marks to the parish priest. During his time he used to meet the people on the Boslatten (Boplain), when he TEE BO STONE. 315 talked to tlie multitude from the so-called Bostone, which still exists. Then, when the mighty nobles were nearly exclusive- ly the governing power, the masses, who most felt the conse- quences of every measure, had the greatest need of know- ing what in the future they must hope or fear. Except on such occasions, the common people had little or no chance of learning what was taking place on the heights of the social structure. The name of Bo Jonsson was a power not only among the nobles, but still more so among the people. The knowledge that not only the highest authorities, but the king himself, were forced to obey his will, drew the masses towards him. Around those who dared to speak out their meaning, the oppressed people of mediaeval times always ral- lied. Bo Jonsson kept up the Swedish custom of some- times calling out the populace for a consultation about meas- ures of importance — to talk with them and let them give their opinion. Although he well knew how to lead their judgments and resolutions to his own ends, he made them believe that they ^participated therein, and were valued accordingly. Probably no Swede either before or since has wielded a greater power than he did ; and, although about five hundred years have disappeared since he lived, his name is still upon the lips of the people. Siiby, on the StSngan River, was one of his favorite castles. The island upon which it was built is still called Bosholmen. Formerly, from the northern side of this place, a road led to a meadow a short distance from the river, and there stands to this day a high stone, somewhat resembling a chair, called Bo's stone, now surrounded by three grand old oaks. Here Bo Jonsson held his meetings with the people, and addressed them. It is worthy of note that, although the meadow is now cultivated, and a ditch ought to pass where the above BO JONSoON'b ooat-of-aems. 340 THE LAXD OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. bl-Al> OVEll THE GB.VVE OF liO JO^SSOM AND 1118 SON. Bo Jonssou's road runs, the people on the estate could not be persuaded to open the former — such is the reverence for the memory of the great Bo. He owned, among others, the castle and estate of Gripsholm, built and named by him ; THE CASTLE OF VADSTENA. 347 there he resided in royal splendor, holding diets and meet- ings of nobles. In Ostergotland he had the castles of Bro- kiud, Sabj, and Vesterbj, besides many more of greater or less importance. On the slab under which he was buried in the church the inscription, in Latin, reads as follows: HERE LIE THE SWEDISH CHANCELLOR, BO JONSSON, IN SAFETY BUKIEU, AND HIS SON, SIR CANUTE. AKMAGARD, THY WIFE, FOLLOWS TUBE, CANUTE. Here is also the tomb of his son-in-law and daughter. Sir Algot Magnusson and Margareta, with the following inscription, with the date of the latter incomplete : UNDER THIS STONE ARE HIDDEN THE BODIES OF THE NOBLE PERSONS, SIR ALGOT MAGNUSSON, AND HIS BELOVED WIFE, LADY MARGARETA BOSDOTTER, WHO DIED IN 1414, AT EASTER, WHILE HE DIED IN 14—. The castle of Yadstena consists of an oblong square main building, enclosed in a rectangular court, and flanked by four round towers. The middle 23art rises like a high tower, sur- mounted by a lofty spire. The whole is surrounded by the Wettern, and the moats which are filled by its water. The neighborhood has been much changed, but the old castle has been kept in repair, and stands pretty much the same as dur- ing the days of Gustaf Wasa I. It was begun in 1545, and finished in 1552. In it the old king celebrated his third wed- ding, with Catharina Stenbock. Here also Prince Magnus, in an attack of insanity, threw himself from one of the palace windows into the "Wettern, tempted by the siren -song of the water-nymph; and here, after a separation of sixteen years, Charles XII. again met his sister, Ulrika Eleonora. Little remains to tell of the great splendor of this fine castle ; the Knights' Hall must have been in its day a magnificent room. After the death of Gustaf Wasa, Vadstena came into the possession of his son Magnus. 348 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. About ten miles from Vadstena is Omberg hill, 574 feet above Lake Wettern, and 871 above the ocean. On the sloping VADSTENA OA8TLE— I,AN1> SIDE. side grows a luxuriant forest, through which streams of lim- pid water find their way to the lake. At the foot of Omberg, VADSTKMA (JASTLB— LAKE iiUlK. about seventeen miles from Yadstena, is Alvastra, the finest ruin of ISweden. The cloister, the oldest and one of the largest THE CLOISTER OF ALVASTRA. 349 and most renowned, was built in the middle of the twelfth century, probably by Alfhild, queen of King Sverker (there- fore Alfhilstad, Alvastra); it was in the possession of Beruar- dine monks, and finally was given up to nuns. Here rest the remains of the kings Sverker I., Karl YII., Sverker II., and Johan I., all of the _ , __ Sverker Dynasty ; and also Birger Brosa,Ulf Gndmar- son, the husband of St. Bir- gitta, with others. At the Reformation the cloister came into the possession of the Crown, and part of the buildings unfortunate- ly have been taken down and used in the^ construc- tion of the castles of Vad- stena and Yisingsborg. One of the oldest churches standing is Heda Church, not far from the rocky side of the Omberg towards the Wettern Lake, which is called the red gable, and from which the stone for the church is said to have been taken. At the southern end of the lake is the city of Jonkoping, with a population of 15,000, and a commodious harbor, protect- ed by a regular breakwater. Its communications with different parts of the country are excellent, the railroads of the State here forming a net-work whose terminal points are Malmo, Gciteborg, Christiania, and Stockliolm, and through branch roads to several of the coast towns of Southern Sweden. "Water communication with Stockholm is effected by three or four steamers, which go and return every week ; with Goteborg by three others, and with the ports on the Wettern by a smaller one. The industrial establishments are numerous, embracing pa- per and linen mills, steam dyeing works, manufactories of snuff, cigars, wall-papers, and chemicals, machine shop, iron-foun- K\LL8T.\D OUUEOII, AI!Ol"T SIX -MILES SOUTU OF TAU8TENA. 350 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. dery, and match factory. The situation of the city is very pretty, being cliiefly between the Wettern and two Likes, a canal communicating with one of them. At a distance of about ten miles is Taberg, 1129 feet above the sea, an iron -moun- tain which, with a few others found in Lapland, are the only ones in Europe where the ore is broken or blasted above ground. A few miles east of the city lies the factory of ITusqvarna, where rifles and sewing-machines are made; its employes number about one thousand. To the south, a short distance from the shore of the Wettern, and between Alvastra and the foot of a mountain range, em- bosomed in luxurious fruit - groves, is the town of Grenna, with about 1500 inhabitants, who export grain and potatoes. It was built in 16.52, by Count Pelir Brahe the younger, and is especially noted for its beautiful site. One mile from Grenna is Visingsci, Wettern's largest island, about ten miles long and two wide, the property of the State, and rich in relics be- lonsine to the iron age. On the south side are the ruins of Niisbo, an ancient castle, still seen under the water. Here have been found graves in great numbers from different periods, whence it has been concluded that the island was employed as a burial-ground by the tribes aronnd it ; before the founding of Stockholm Yisingso was often used as a resi- dence for the kings. Here lived and died Karl YII., who reigned 1160-1168, Erik X., Johan I., and Magnus Ladul3,s. In 1561 the island came into the possession of the Brahe family, who built the splendid fortified castle of Yisingborg, completed in 1657. At the " reduction " it became the proper- ty of the Crown. The structure was burned in 1718, and noth- ing of its former splendor remains but ruins. The church, of cut stone, finished in 1636, has a fine portal, and is ornamented by numerous paintings, among which a couple on copper are said to have been done by Catharina Stenbock, the third queen of Gustaf Wasa. Highly gilt silver tablets shine on the walls, and the church contains other curiosities. In its chancel are the marble statues of Pehr Brahe the younger and his countess. Under the church are the burial-vaults of the Brahe family. LAKE WEXEEN. 351 Crossing the Wettern from Yadstena to Carlsborg, a forti- fied place intended as a base for the defence of the country, one enters the Bottensjo, which may be considered a bay, and, sailing through this, reaches Forsvik, where the canal is again continued, and, by means of a lock, an ascent of eleven feet takes place ; after which Lake Yiken is entered. This is the highest water on the route, being 308 feet above the Baltic, and 160 above the Wenern. The Ymsen is a lake midway between the Wenern and Wettern, with pretty (formerly oak-clad) shores. On the top of a promontory are still seen ruins of the eight -feet -thick walls of a castle, the remnants of a well cut through the rock in its central part, and, sur- rounding all this, remains of breastworks and ditches. Gold cliains and rings have been found in the ground around these old ruins, which date from 1229. From Viken the canal runs in a north-westerly direction towards the Wenern, and for several miles is perfectly level, in one place being carried through the rocks. The steamer wends its way slowly on ac- count of the locks, and finally reaches Sjotorp on tlie Wenern, with its spacious basins, docks for repairs, and workshops. The Wenern is the largest lake of Scandinavia, its length being ninety-three miles, and its widest part forty-seven ; its greatest depth, 359 feet, is found north of a group of islands called Luro ; its level varies sometimes ten feet, according to the amount of water poured into it in the spring by the rivers. It has but few large islands, the most important being Kol- landso, near the southern shore ; Hammeron and Amon on the north, and Forso and Bromo on the south. The banks of this inland fresh-water sea are beautiful and picturesque, with its bays, fjords, archipelago of islands, wooded hills, cities, ham- lets, churches, farms, and historical castles. It is supplied by more than thirty rivers. Sailing-vessels and steamers plough its surface in every direction ; more than forty light- houses have been erected, to warn the mariner of danger, or show him the approaches to his port of destination. Along its rivers and shores are numerous saw-mills and iron-foun- dries. In its north-eastern corner is the town of Kristine- hamn, with a population of over 4000; it is connected by 352 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. railways and canals with Filipstad, and other mining districts of the province of Vennland ; it exports bar and cast iron, and ores, timber, and grain. Every year, in April, is held the fair, when contracts for iron and timber are made between producers and exporters. It has a match factory, tanneries, machine shops, etc. Filipstad was founded by Charles IX., and has a mining-school supported by the iron-masters' asso- ciation. In its neighborhood, especially north of it, are situated a large number of iron mines, smelting furnaces and works, making it one of the most important places in Sweden. All these are connected with the new railroad, either by tram-ways or lake transportation, thus getting their products to the sea. In the southern part of Vermland, on the Skagen, about sixteen miles from Kristinehamn, stands the church of R^da, one of the oldest wooden ones of Scandinavia, built in the be- ginning of the fourteenth century. The outside of the edifice presents no special features, but the interior is very interest- ing. Odd paintings illustrate the Scriptures; those of the chancel dating from 1323, and of the nave from 1495. There is one porch, which in olden times was used as a depository for weapons during the services ; for at that period men came armed, as if ready for a fra}'. AVest of Kristinehamn is the town of Karlstad, on the shores of the lake and of the Klar River, with a population of 7000. In 1865 a fire laid almost the whole city in ashes; it is now entirely rebuilt, and looks handsomer than before, with wide streets, boulevards planted with several rows of trees, large squares, stately buildings, and fine stores. Quite a num- ber of manufactories have a permanent exhibition of the prod- ucts of the province, near tlie city park. Along the river, north of the city, are a number of iron-founderies, saw-mills, and other factories, among which the Uddeholms works are the most important. These consist of seven iron-works and four smelting-f urnaees, the estate embracing an area of nearly half a million acres, and employing more than 10,000 workmen. The forests are exceedingly well managed, so that their new growth is properly cared for. JVEXEILX WATER-WAYS. 353 The next valley west of the Klar Eiver is Fryksdal, with Lake Frjkeii, skirted on both sides by ranges of hills. This, as well as that of the Klar River, constitutes one of the large arteries in which the industrial life of the province of Verm- land pulsates; but the former is in a higher degree than the lat- ter distinguished for its beauty. Steamers ascend the By River tSTEUlOK OK BAUA CUUKOU, VEBML.VND. and tlie Seffle Canal, and far into the interior of "West Yerm- land. There is another and most charming route by the Dais- land Canal, and a series of lakes which bring one to the fron- tier of Norway. The scenery is at times extremely beautiful, and the canal in many places displays great engineering skill, especially near Hafverud. Hemmed in on either side by per- pendicular rocks, there is a cataract, beyond which the vessels must be carried. To build this canal and locks on the left side was always considered impossible, as there was no safe VOL. II. 2 A 354 THE LAXD OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. bottom ; to lay tlicni on the right was also exceedingly dif- ficult, the rocks above the cataracts being of such a nature that a cutting could not be made through them without enor- mous expense. The engineer overcame these obstacles by plac- ing the lower part of the canal and the locks on the right side, but carrying the u]iper part first over the cataract in a colossal hanging aqueduct of iron, 122 feet long and 15| feet wide ; and then, in an obtuse angle, following the left bank of the stream, against which one wall was built, while the other was blasted out of the rock. When the vessels are in the aqueduct, they seem, as it were, to swing in the air. Among the most lovely spots on the lake are the hills of Kinnekulle, rising several hundred feet, from which a mag- nificent view of the Kinne Bay and the surrounding country can be had. At the base is Hellekis — a large estate, with a fine mansion. In the southern part of the bay is the town of Lidkuping, where the Lidan River empties itself into the lake : it has a population of over 4000. A few miles south of the entrance to the canal is the cha- teau of Borstorp, built by Baron Falkenberg : iron letters show the name of the builder, and the date of its construc- tion, 1646. In one room hangs a remarkable little painting, representing the daughter of King Magnus Ladul{l,s, named Elna. In the border of this picture, which is an original portrait, is written : " Elna des Koniges Magni Ladlos Toch- ter zu Schweden, ihr herr Yater hat sie in St. Clara gegeben. Anno 1288 da sie nicht ihr Tte Jahre erreichtet ist ge-Contre —fait. Anno 1299." A royal shield with three crowns rests by the foot of the princess, who is ornamented with two chains, which she got from her father, and which she always carried while a nun in St. Clara convent. From her these chains de- scended, and were worn by the abbesses in tlie convent, and when this was abolished by Gustavus I., they remained in the possession of the last abbess, Anna Reinholdsdotter Leuhu- sen, in whose family the estate fell. One of the chains is com- posed of 98 rings of pure gold, and weighs about 400 penny- weights ; the other is a rosary, consisting of 101 little balls of silver, seven of gold, all of filigree work, 45 still smaller JX ANCIENT JEWEL. 355 BOBSTORr. IN Vr.8TKn(iUTL.VNl>. golden balls, and an ornament of the same with a few small images of apostles — altogether weighing about three ounces. The ornament is completed by two very finely-worked ear- pendants of gold ; in each of which there is a pair of scissors, and a knife and fork, all of steel. They liave been in the Leuhusen family three liundred years, and are carefully kept in a large case, and are, with the very rich library, entailed to the eldest son. If to these three centuries, during which these valuables belonged to the pious abbesses of St. Clara convent, are added those in which they have been in posses- sion of the Leuhusen family, we have an aggregate of six hundred 3'ears, during which they liave descended regularly from hand to hand. „ 2 A 2 35G THE LAND OF THE MIDXIGUT SUX. There is no country in Europe where so many old stone churches of the eleventh, twelfth, and thirteenth centuries are found as in Sweden ; they are abundant from the cen- tral part to its southern extremity. Their spires and towers, rounded and pointed arches, present most graceful propor- tions; many are perfect specimens of the architecture of those periods, with doors of exquisite design. A few are peculiar, and no doubt were parts of heathen temples, to which addi- tions have been made. These often appear when least ex- pected, as they are embosomed in groves. In them are found KEMO 8UKINE OP WOOD, OOVEKED WITH EMBOSSED AND OII.DEI) OOPPEU, FKO.M TUB KNU OF TUE TWICLKTU CENTCKY — EEIKSBEBUA OUUKCU. many mementos of those days, in the shape of crude paintings illustrating the Scriptures, or wooden carvings on the same subject; baptismal fonts of stone, with odd sculptured fig- ures or designs, surrounded by Latin or Runic inscriptions; RELICS FOUND IN CHURCHES. 357 embroideries of remarkable pattern, shrines chased and cov- ered with enamelled copper, or of solid silver, wood-carvings, old altars, and other relics too numerous to mention, many of which are now kept in the museum of the State. Here KEPEF.bENT.VTlON OF THE CUUCIIIXION ON A OMilNET, FBO-M OSTESaKEK OIICUOII, UPLAND. and there one sees a sJMmpallen (shame stool) ; persons con- victed of crime or misdemeanor, against either Church or State, were formerly condemned to stand upon it in front of 358 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. tlie lii*--!! altar, so that the delinquent might be seen by the M-hole con«TCgation. The reason why these structures have remained untouched is that, even during their intestine wars, the churches and tombs of former enemies were always re- spected ; and when the Reformation took place there were few Vandals willing to burn and destroy them. The accom- panying illustrations are representations of some of these rel- ics, and a volume might be filled with them : The relic shrine is from Eriksberga church, in Vester- gotland, near Falkoping ; the inscription, two lines on all four sides, enumerates the relics kept therein : of St. An- drew, Holy Cross, St. Pancratius, blood of St. Vincent, etc. liAPTISMAl. FONT OF STONE FROM NORUM CIIUUOU. The baptismal font is from JSTorum cliurch, in Bohusliin, now in the historical museum of the State. The Runic in- scription reads: Sviin Kiirthe (Swain made the font); the signification of the last five characters is not known. Below the inscription is seen a man surrounded by four snakes, who seems to rest with his feet on a harp, or something similar. Probably this is meant to represent Gunnar in the snake-pit, a scene from the Eddaic sagas of the Volsungar and Gjukungar. TheM'Ooden door with iron monntings is in the clmrcli of Ver- sas, in Vestergotland. The inscription in Runic characters on a strip of iron reads : Asmnnter giirthi dyr (Asmund made the door). The same name also occnrs on similar doors in the THE OLDEST CRURCR OF SWEDEN. 359 cliurclies of Visingso, on the island of that name in the Wet- tern Lake, and Viifversunda in Ostergothmd, on the shore of the Wettern, about eight miles south of Vadstena. Near the southern border of the bay of Kinne is IIus- aby church, one of the most historical and the oldest of Swe- den, situated at the foot of the hills, on the southerly side, about twenty-five miles from the town of Mariestad. The ancient graves, the stones with Runic inscriptions, and other relics bear testimony to the antiquity of the place, whicli dates from the dawn of Christian- ity upon the land. It was here that Olaf Skutkonung, born about 965, and who died in 1024 (the first Christian King of Sweden), was bap- tized by Sigfrid, sent by King Ethelred about the year 1001. The castles of the kings in olden times were called hu^ (house), and after his conver- sion Olaf Skotkonung estab lished his court in Husaby, which was long before his time a king's farm ; for he would not live among his subjects in the province of Upland, who clung with great tenacity to the religion of their forefathers. A few years later he gave this farm as a residence to the first Bishop of Vestergotland, and it became chiefly the abode of his successors, while the cathedral of Skara was being erected on the site of a great heathen temple. From the king's house rose the Ilusaby church, which still possesses the original three towers belonging to the old ^ES^ ■WOODEN DOOK OF VEESA8 OHrKOH, 300 TUE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN Kungshns. This cdifiec is about thirty-two feet wide, and, with tlie chancel, 105 feet long, and was the cathedral of the bishops for nearly one hundred and forty years, and until the Cathedral of Skara was inaugurated. The towers are three, one beside IICS.VCY OUUROII. the other, on the west end of the church, and are seen with their spiral stairways, from which there are doors opening to four stories; the two side towers were the entrances to tlie castle, of which the middle tower tlien was a part. The old stone sculptured baptismal font, the stakes to which torches were fastened at bridal-parties, the altars, the bishop's chair, and other relies of the Catholic Church remain. There are TOMB OF OLAF SKOTKOXUXG AXD QUEEN ASTRID. 361 queer epitaphs on the old sUibs over the tombs inside and outside the edifice. Ainono; the most remarkable tombs are TOMB OF OLAr SKOTKONUNQ. tliose of King Olaf Skotkonung, and of his queen Astrid, just outside the west end, and nearly nine centuries old. One of these is wholly without inscription, while the other has on the east end two animals, which seem to meet in any- thing but a friendly mood; on the west end two others, wliich ts^ , . (i^lfiillK, ..11 -I tow lUe.VIiV <-|llKCll-VAEl>, WITU TOMUS OK KI.NO ol.AK SKOTKONl'NO AND Ql'EE.N ASTKlt'. 302 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. ai.i)ear to tlcvom- a human head ; on one side two persons hoKlin^i? a chalice and a bahmce, a bishop w^ith a cross and a fish"another who with one hand receives a key from a hand extended from above, and in the other holds a bishop's staff— two children sitting ou the border of a well-house, near which is an altar on whicii a chalice is put, and a person with outstretched arms; on the north side two dragons, against which two men armed with swords and shields are battling— '53 ^ ENU VIEW OF TUE TO.MU OF KING OLAF SliOTKONUNO, one with a short dress seeming to be a layman, whose foot a dragon has taken hold of, while the other, with a long wide robe (an ecclesiastic), thrusts his sword into the mouth of the monster. These are symbols of the Law, the Gospel, the Bap- tism, the Lord's Supper, and the battle between Christendom and Heathendom. Tradition indicates that Olaf Skotkonuns: was baptized in St. Sigfrid's spring, which is situated east of the church ; and several places in the vicinity bear the name of Sifffrid. INVASION OF ENGLAND BT SVEN TVESEAGG. 363 Olaf was called lap-king, because he was chosen a king while a child in his mother's lap. lie, with King Sven Tveskagg of Denmark, defeated Olaf Trjggvason of Korvvay at the famous naval battle of Svolder. After this battle Sven Tveskjigg's hands were free to renew his expedition to England, where he had been twice before. An occasion soon arose, giving him a pretext for going. On the 13th of November, 1002, the Englisli had agreed to the general destruction of all the Northmen then living in the country; this resolve they put into execution, killing the great- er portion of them ; even Gunhild, the sister of Sven, who was married to the English earl Paling, was also murdered. Angered in a high degree by this treachery, Sven equipped a large army and landed on the English coast, continuing his rav- ages until 1007, when the weak King Ethel red paid 36,000 pounds to obtain peace from the invadei's; but the desired peace he did not gain, for other chiefs continued to plunder the country. Sven died the 2d of February, 1014, and Ethel- red thought it a good cliance to recover his entire kingdom ; and after having bought the assistance of the Danish chief, Thorkil the High, for 21,000 pounds, he managed to expel the young Canute, the son of Sven. But he did not long- enjoy this state of peace, for, in the latter part of 1015, Canute returned with a large army and a splendid fleet, and soon drove Ethelred away ; and, finally, after many hard- fought battles, Canute was, at the end of the year 1017, in sole possession of the kingdom, which he kept till his death, November 12th, 1042, He reigned over England, Denmark, Norway, and the southern part of Sweden. One of the most interesting places between the Wettern and the Wenern is the town of Skara, an ancient trading and offering centre on the Vcstgota plain. This place M'as, before Christianity, the centre of heathendom in Gotaland, just as Upsala was in Svealand. The cathedral, next to that of Husaby the oldest in Sweden, was consecrated in 1151 by Bishop Odgrim ; of its many towers only two are left. The town has a fine elementary scliool-building, and a new library with 20,000 volumes. Tliere is also a seminary for female 304 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUK teacliers of the folkskolor, and a veterinary college ; it lias about 3000 inhabitants. I'etween Skara and Falkoping is Gud- heni, during the heathen age a great sacrificing place, later a cloister for nuns, of which, however, now only a few ruins are left. About six miles east of Skara stretches Axevalla heath, now used as a field of manoeuvring or drill for the military ; but in olden times a great burial-place, to which numerous passage -graves and other reminiscences bear witness. Not quite three miles east of Axevalla, near the base of Billingen, is the old cloister-church of Varnhem, originally built in 1150 by King Sverker the elder; the structure, in which several kings rest, was burned by the Danes in 1566, but was restored to its original state by Count Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie, 1668-1671. It is in shape a Gothic-cross Avith three towers, and is one of the handsomest in Sweden. The old royal tombs were restored by the above-mentioned art-loving magnate, who in the church built a magnificent mausoleum for his family. Near KinnekuUe is the historic island of Kollandso, which forms part of the bay, and is almost contiguous to the shore, upon which stands the interesting castle of Lecko, com- menced in 1298 by Bishop Brynolf of Skara. The structure is on a high cliff on the north-eastern corner of the island. It was occupied by the Catholic bishops of Skara, and Bry- nolf Gerlachsson at the end of the fifteenth century extended and strongly fortified it. From one of these bishops, Didrick Slaghok, it was captured by Gustaf Wasa I. ; afterwards, in 1527, it was confiscated by the Crown from Bishop Magnus Somnuir, and was, in 1615, wnth three districts, made a county for Jakob Pontusson de la Gardie. Not only the latter, but also his son, Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie, greatly improved the castle, which had been burned by the Danes in 1566 ; scarcely more than the foundation and a wall of the orio-inal structure were remaining; finally it had as many as seven towers: it was seized for the Crown by Charles XI. Although with all its irregular additions presenting a certain disorder, it is still a stately square building with four towers, and surrounded by a garden, and a moat blasted out of the rock separates it from the island. THE TROLLHATTAN FALLS. 365 From Lecko the channel runs through the rocky passage north of Kollandso, and then out into the open Wenern, or rather that part of it called Dalbo Lake, and thence in a south- westerly direction. To the right are seen the shores of Dais- land, and to the left Hinna light -house. Tlie "Wenern now gets more and more narrow towards the end. Soon comes in sight the hill Halleberg (290 feet above the lake), and beyond the Ilunneberg, both with perpendicular walls, after which is shortly reached the port of Wenersborg. From Wenersborg the journey westward continues to be very interesting. First the vessel enters Lake Yassbotten, and from this through a canal into the Gota River, thus avoiding the cascade of Ronnum, 19 feet in height. At last the fa- mous Trollhattan (witches' caps) falls are reached ; these are 111 feet in height, but are divided into four large cascades and rapids called GuUo, Toppo, Stampestroms, and Ilel votes, extending altogether nearly a mile. First comes the Gullo, with a height of 26 feet ; then the Toppo, where the river, which liere attains a considerable width, throws itself down 41 feet on both sides of the islet of Toppo, which can be reached by a frail bridge, and from which a very good view of the scene can be had. Here is also situated the so-called "King's Grotto," an excavation in the rock, where many royal person- ages — Gustaf III., and Gustaf Adolf, Karl Johan, Desideria, Oscar, and Josefina — have had their names cut. Next after the Toppo fall comes that of the Stampestrom, nine feet high, and immediately east thereof the water is seen to rusli through the Polhems lock, 61 feet deep, with the assistance of which it was the intention to pass both the Toppo and Stampestrom ; it therefore had to be of colossal dimensions, with floodgates of not less than 53 feet in height. Below Stampestrom the river forms a still-water, called Hiijumsvarp; but it soon again gets narrower ; and then follow each other with terrific speed the three Helvetes falls (falls of hell), together, however, only 28 feet in height. Finally, 1000 feet farther, the river forms another cascade near Flottbergsstrominen four feet high. The canal, most of which, is blasted out of the rock, first runs G600 feet to Akersjo (129 feet above the sea), and then through ;300 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. eleven locks of 24 feet in widtli and 10 feet in depth, down to Akersvass, wliei-c it ends. These are tlie new locks, the old ones, eight in number, which are still used for smaller ves- sels, lying close by the new ; they were opened in 1800. The journey is then continued on the quiet river, which here is only 19 feet above the sea, past Skiirsbo down to Aker- strom, where a fall of three and a half feet necessitates an- other lock ; then past Torpa, remarkable for a salt spring — one of the very few in Sweden — until the village of Little Edet is reached. Here the river gets narrower, and forms a fall of 10 feet, to avoid which, near the fine estate of Strom, commences the so-called Stroms Canal, 4000 feet long, with two locks ; beyond this the stream runs along smoothly until it empties into the North Sea. Upon its shores many his- toric events have occurred. Near Foxerna church two bat- tles took place between Inge the elder. King of Sweden, and Magnus Barefoot of Norway. Not far from the fall of Little Edet is the ancient town of Liodhus or Lodose, once powerful, rich, and strongly fortified, several times besieged and plundered, but now an insignificant hamlet with a ship-wharf, A little beyond is the village of Kongelf, with about 900 inhabitants, remarkable for the his- toric memories which cluster around it. In Northern his- tory it is often mentioned as the proud and mighty KongluUl, formerly Konungahiilla, /, t^., the Kings' Hall, so called on ac- count of the many meetings of kings held there. By reason of its situation on the former boundary between Norway and Sweden, it constantly was the scene of remarkable events. J lore was held the fatal meeting between King Olaf Tryggva- son and Sigrid the Proud ; here Inge the elder met the kings of Dennuirk and Norway. In the beginning of the twelfth century Sigurd Jorsalafar intended to make Konghall, which was then tiie most powerful town of Norway, and whose fleets sailed to the Mediterranean, his permanent residence; but in 1135, five years after the death of this king, the place, although strong, was completely destroyed by the Vandalians, and never afterwards regained its former greatness. On an island oppo- site are the remains of the old fort of Bohus. A HOME OF VIKINGS. 367 CHAPTER XXXI. The Provinces of Halland and Bohusliin. — Rivers abounding with Salmon. — Halm- stad. — Bohuslan. — An Ancient Viking Place. — Its numerous Relics of the Stone, Bronze, and Viking Ages. — Extensive Fishing. — Bathing-places on the Coast. — Saro. — Life at Saro. — Marstrand. — A Fashionable Bathing Resort. On its west coast Sweden lias two provinces, Halland and Boliusliin ; the latter in olden times belonged to Norway. They were ceded to Sweden by Denmark in 1658, by the Peace of Roeskilde, between Charles X. and Frederick III. Before this the only territory owned by Sweden on the North Sea was a narrow tract of land belonging to Westergotland, lying between the two provinces. The shores of Halland are bathed by the Skagerrack and Kattegat ; its rivers abound in salmon, said to be superior in flavor to those of the other rivers of Sweden, especially those caught on the Nissa. Most of the fish are smoked by a pe- culiar process, giving to them a flavor much relished by the Swedes. Numerous flshing-villages are found on the coast. Tlie seaport of Ilalmstad, on the shores of the Nissa, with 8000 inhabitants, is the capital of the province. Here, in 1062, a fierce naval fight took place between the Danes, led by Sven, a grandson of Canute the Great, and the Norwegians under King Harald Hardrade, in which the latter were victorious. The church was built about 1-100, and ruins of old cloisters and of the fortifications still exist. Bohusliin was, in ancient times, a province -where many a Viking resided, and well chosen was their abode. The shore is indented everywhere by deep fjords ; innumerable islands of all sizes guard the coast, the most dangerous in Sweden ; these hide from view the rivers and bays, where the pirate chiefs assembled their fleets unknown to their enemies, or from 3G8 THE LAND OF THE MIDXIGUT SUX. which tliey sailed for distant hinds in search of booty. There is no part of Scandinavia where so many tombs of tlie stone, bronze, and iron ages, with their relics, are to be found, and weeks and months can be spent in their examination. I have given an account of some of them in the chapters on these n-raves (Vol. I.). How thoughtfully I have stood before these tokens of the past, which so well illustrate the littleness of moil (JllANOKI,. II,\I.M8T,M> OllUKOU. man, and show Iiow quickly he is forgotten when the usages and manners of his time have passed away! His remains, once buried with great honor and deep religious feeling, are dis- tm-bed and taken away as objects of curiosity for the people of distant lands, who care nothing for, and know little of, his deeds. The bare rounded hills contrast singularly in summer with SEA-BATHIXa PLACES. 369 the blue skj above ; wliile in winter the waves dashed by the tempests seem to sing a sad, long wail on the dark gray coast, which then partakes of tlie color of the clouds. The islands act as reefs, guarding the shores and giving safe anchorage. Some of them are inhabited ; and ia protected places there are green meadows and fields of gi'ain, with now and then a windmill, a red-painted farm-house, or a fishermairs cottage, roofed with red tiles. Fishing is carried on extensively, es- pecially that of herrings and sprats ; lobsters and o^^sters are abundant. From Bohuslan northward the ble2.k shores of Norway come into view ; the scenery increases in grandeur and rug- gedness, and presents the character before described. On the frontier is Fredrikshald, at the siege of whose fortress Charles XII. met his death. Tlie most important town of the prov- ince, after Goteborg, is Uddevalla, with 6000 inhabitants, at the end of the By fjord, which is fifty miles long. On the coast there are a number of very pleasant bathing resorts, among which is the village of Grebbestad, in whose vicinity is the large battle-field of Greby, studded with a great variety of grave-stones, raised, according to the saga, over the remains of Scots who, after a plundering expedition to the Bullar lakes, were here overtaken by their pursuers and slain. Stromstad is the most northerly town on the Swedisli coast, with a population of about 2000. Lysekil is another fishing and bathing village. Gustafsberg is a cliarming spot. Tlie two most fashionable resorts of Sweden are Sard and Marstrand. On a warm July day I sailed from the river Gota towards Saro, the islands rapidly increasing in number south- ward ; seals were basking in the sun upon tlie rocks, and wild ducks swimming quietly, surrounded by their broods ; gulls were flying above our heads or resting upon the water, while here and there on some deserted islands w'ere sheep left to browse for the summer. In August and September there is capital sport here in seal-hunting. A whistle from the steamer announced to the inhabitants its approach, though there was nothing but rocks in sight. Trees soon after made their appearance, and in a sliort time VOL. II. 2 B 870 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. we came to the wharf of Siiro. A few ladies, dressed in the lieii^lit of siiuiinei- fashion, with their children qiieerlj accou- tred in sea-side costumes, were waiting to meet their husbands or friends. Siiro is an ishmd connected with the main-hmd hy a causeway, and is a peculiar sea-bathing place, no house over- looking the water. Less than a hundred yards from the shore groves of large oak-trees, often from ten to twelve feet in circumference, with long spreading branches, and other trees, formed a park, in which were scattered charming villas of different sizes, some containing only two rooms, surrounded by gardens. Paths led in diiierent directions, ever3' rock and bit of ground being used to advantage. Life was very quiet, there being no bustle, and very little driving ; the cottages were rented for the season, and chiefly occupied by the in- habitants of Goteborg. In Sweden ladies and gentlemen do not bathe in company, and here do not get sight of each other, the respective places being separated by a promontoiy. The beach for men is in the hollow of a rocky cove, where the sea is so clear that one can see the bottom at a great depth. The people wear no bathing-costume. The water was 73° Fahrenheit, and I found it too warm to be refreshing. Marstrand is on an island of the Kattegat, and at the en- trance of the By fjord. It looms up in the distance, with its castles of Gustafsborg, Fredriksborg, and Carlsten, which were considered formidable before the invention of modern artil- lery. The town was founded in 1220 by the Norwegian king, Ilakon Hakonson; during the sixteenth century it became one of the most flourishing places of the north on account of its herring fisheries, but now depends for its support on the sum- mer visitors. About 2000 persons come to spend the summer here, ladies being in greater number than gentlemen. I no- ticed that tlie former were attired more fashionably than at any of the other watering-places ; the dresses, in warm weath- er, were chiefly of whhe or light-colored muslin, with long and broad silk scarfs around their waists. Graceful hats part- ly hid their blue eyes and smiling faces; no one wore a silk robe, for the sea-shore was not the place, according to Swedish notions, to wear costly fabrics, the salt air ruining them. The LIFE AT TEE SEASIDE. 371 gentlemen were clad in summer suits, cand everybody had an appearance of refinement. The bathing season lasts from the 1st of June to the end of August. There were restaurants and hotels, and houses were rented for the season. There was also a small ball and concert room, in which was dancing twice a week, on AVednesday and Sunday evenings, besides concerts and other entertainments given by actors or artists. Almost all the visitors rented rooms and took their meals at the restaurants, of which there were two. There was no driving, and the people amused them- selves by walking, boating, and fishing, while fiirtations by the seaside took place here as well as elsewhere. The bathing-place was peculiar, being enclosed with a fence in a sandy spot where the sea was as quiet as a pond, and where the bathers could not be seen from the outside. There were several rooms for the use of gentlemen, but no bathing costumes were worn. The ladies had their own place also, and as I saw no wet garments di-ying, I suppose they bathe in the same fashion as the sterner sex. The water was 71^°, and consequently a little cooler than at Saro. Among the bathers were a few Russians, Norwegians, Danes, and Fiidanders. The arrival of the steamer was always an event, and all Marstrand was out. The Swedish ladies looked very pretty, and many of the men were really handsome ; I was especially attracted by their pleasant manners. There is a church in the village, and a shaded promenade of tine trees. Among the curiosities are so-called "giant holes," which were, no doubt, made by water. I fared well, for the friends who had received me so kindly on my arrival in Swe- den had made known to their wives my intended visit, and their reception was most affable. With great trouble they had been able to secure a room for me at the hotel ; for in the height of the season, unless one has done this in advance, the chances are that he will spend the first night walking through the streets or contemplating the sea. 2 B 2 372 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XXXII. The Province of Ostergotland.— Risiuge Church. — An Historical Battle-field.— Tho City of Norrkoping. — The largest Manufacturing Town iu Sweden. — How the Artisans live. — Comfortable Dwellings. — The Iron-works of Finspong. — Law.s concerning the Employment of the Young. — Intelligent Citizens. — Fine Schools. — Interesting Ceremony at the closing of Schools. — A Teachers' Sociable. South of Sodermaiiland we enter Ostergotland, one of tho most fertile provinces of Sweden, whose territory lies chietly between Lake Wettern and the Baltic. From the north tho traveller on his waj to Korrkoping passes near the ancient Risinge church, remarkable for its wood-carving and painted ceilings of mediaeval times. As he nears the coast, and ap- proaches the BrS,viken fjord, he comes to BrS,valla heath, the scene in pagan history of the bloody battle which took place, about the year 740, between Ilarald Ilildetand and Sigui'd Ring. The city of Norrkoping, with a population of 27,000, near the head of the Bi-3,viken fjord, is built on both sides of the Motala River, whose rapids furnish apparently an almost un- limited water-power to the numerous manufactories located on its banks. Vessels ascend the stream as far as the lower bridge, and quays are erected on both sides ; the streets are wide, and some are far superior to those of Stockholm, large slabs forming the pavement of the sidewalks. The town is clean. Most of the houses are of wood, painted, and not more than two stories in height. This city is the principal manufacturing centre on the pen- insula of Scandinavia. There are paper-mills, lithographic es- tablishments, machine shops, tobacco, soap, and match facto- ries, tanneries, breweries, sugar refineries, chemical, hosiery, and starch manufactories; three ship-building docks, one of MANUFACTURES OF NORBKOPING. 373 wliicli belongs to the Motala iron-works; extensive woollen and cotton mills — some employing from five to seven or eight hundred liands. The manufacturers have discovered INTKEIOE OF BISINGE OIIUKCII. tliat the greater the power of production the cheaper is the cost of the goods; they have awakened to the importance of adopting the latest improvements in machinery devised in England, America, France, and Germany. There is a great 37i THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUX. deal of enterprise, which I have no doubt will in time greatly enlarge the industries of the place. Tlie working population is thrifty, and their houses ex- ceedingly clean ; indeed, cleanliness is one of the characteris- tics of the Swedish artisans. They live generally in flats, of three to five rooms. In some cases tlie owners of the mills have liouses which they rent for a stipulated sura to their hands. I met no beggars ; and altogether was delighted with this little Manchester of Sweden. I was particularly pleased, in visiting the manufacturing establishments, to see the order, and, as a rule, the tidiness of the women ; and only in the lithographic works did I notice a few girls twelve years of age. Eighteen miles north-west of Norrkoping is the magnificent estate of Finspong, with iron- works and a cannon-fonndjy. It has a very fine castle, erected in 1668, with a chapel, and it also contains a valuable library, a theatre, and a number of paintings, among them some by Titian, Guido Reni, Eubens, and other masters. The parks are beautiful ; the iron-works and foundry are near the castle. The works, established dur- ing the sixteenth century by the Crown, were, in 1641, sold to the renowned Louis de Geer; in 1685, during the "reduction" of Chnrles XI., the estate was again taken by the State, but it was the year after given back to Louis de Geer the younger and his heirs or assigns, in consideration of certain yearly con- tributions which are still in force. The property, which by late purchases has been greatly increased, now covers an area of over 96,000 acres. The laws concerning the employment of the young are rig- orously enforced ; no child, nuile or female, being engaged in a store or factory, or in any handicraft, unless over twelve years of age. In manufacturing establishments or workshops, no one under eighteen years is employed between nine o'clock in the evening and five o'clock in the morning. No labor may in- terfere with the school, and the children who work during the day must attend the evening classes. But the statutes, how- ever beneficent, compared with those of other countries, are capable of in)provement. Children above twelve years have often to work here ten hours a day in close rooms ; this is THE HIGH-SCHOOL OF NORBKOPING. 375 Giitirely too long a time, especially as they have besides to attend the evening school. The merchants have their country-seats in the suburbs. Some of these retreats are beautiful, hidden in glens and shaded nooks. The villa of the gentleman to whom I am in- debted for much of the pleasure I enjoyed in Norrkoping is situated in a romantic spot, in the midst of fine groves of birches, firs, and pines, by the side of a narrow dale, with meadows flanked on either side by a ridge of granite. The citizens are most intelligent and liberal in their views. The schools are among the finest in Sweden, and this is saying much. There is a technological institute, also an excellent high-school standing in the midst of open ground, and com- manding a grand view ; this is an ornament and a credit to the town, and would compare favorably with any in the Unit- ed States. One of the rooms is 80 feet long, 40 wide, and 25 high ; there is plenty of light, and the ventilation is good ; the scholars meet there daily before the hours of study. A chapter of the Bible is read at the opening of the school, and one of the scholars reads the prayer for the day. This room is also used for musical entertainments, for there is a musical society belonging to the school. There is a small museum, furnished with zoological and mineralogical specimens, skele- tons and skulls, shells, eggs, corals, fish, turtles, etc. ; also a library stored with scientific works and books of reference. French, English, and German literature are well represented by the works of Thackeray and Dickens, Napier's " History of the Peninsular War," Thiers's " Consulate and Empire," the works of St. Eeuve, Lamartine, Balzac, and Jules Janin, and even those of Voltaire, and the " Biographie Universelle." The school also possesses a good laboratory for the study of chemistry ; and one room is used for the instruction of classes in drawing. The number of teachers and professors is between twenty and twenty -four. The gymnasium hall stands at some distance from the main building. There are several free-schools, all occupying good buildings, showing the intelligence of the people and the interest taken in education. There are also one or two private schools. 370 'rUE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. By Ilerr E , director of one of the banks, to whom I had a letter of introduction, I was received most kindly. "You have come just in time to see the closing of the free-school; would you like to go with me?" I assented, and went. The ciiildren had gathered in a large hall, and numbered about 1500 girls and boys belonging to the working-class. All were dressed in their best ; and if I had not known I was in Sweden, I nu^j-ht have thought myself in one of the large school-rooms in an American city. I found that Ilerr E was a man of large and extended views. He thought it might prove advantageous to educate boys and girls together, and he also believed that there should be more female teachers; that women ought to be paid the same price as men for the same work ; and that the high- school should be as free to young women as to their broth- ers. I was presented to the superintendent, who was on the platform with two clergymen, members of the Board of Edu- catioi?, and several ladies ; the children sang Swedish hymns and songs ; and a few prizes, consisting of books, were given to the best scholars in the different classes. Then one of the clergymen made an address, directing his remarks especially to the girls who had finished tlie course of study prescribed by law, and who would not return the following term. He exhorted them to remain pure in thought, to love and fear God, to cultivate virtue, and to believe in the atonement of the Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ. The superintendent kindly invited me to attend a little sociable given by him to all the teachers. The party was held in one of the Folkskolor, and there were thirty lady and eight gentlemen teachers present. Most of the former were young, and all were attractive in ap- pearance, and modest, and some of them quite handsome. I be- gan to feel after awhile that the place might prove dangerous to a bachelor like myself ; perhaps I might not be able to re- sist the smiles of so many pretty Swedes. Several of the gen- tlemen present were married, and their wives were teachers also — a step in the right direction, which might be imitated elsewhere with great advantage to the comfort of the house- hold. I could not at first induce the superintendent to talk A SUBTERFUGE. 377 in any foreign language; and, in order to draw him out, I said, "I find that tlie students in Upsala can speak foreign languages better than in Lund." The Doctor was a graduate of Lund, and this was a little too much for him. My remark had the desired effect, and he replied in English that the graduates of Lund could speak other tongues as well as those of Upsala, and then lausrhed heartily over my subterfuge. 378 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XXXIII. The Schools of Sweden. — Fine Buildings. — Regulations. — Teaching considered a High Calling. — How Teachers are regarded. — Respect shown to Governesses. — Compulsory Education since 1842. — Large Attendance of Children in Schools. — Number of School-houses. — Studies in the different Grades of Schools. — Gym- nastic and Military Exercises. — Standard of Studies before entering some of the Schools. — A Small Fee required for some Schools. — How Schools are support- ed. — Ambulatory Schools. — Supervision over Schools. — Professional and Trade Schools. — Seminaries to prepare Male and Female Teachers. — Industrial Schools. — Technical Schools. — Institutions for the Deaf, Dumb, and Blind. — The Agri- cultural Colleges. — The Schools of Norway. — Universities of Sweden and Norway. — Scientific Institution of Learning. What most forcibly strikes a stranger travelling in Swe- den is to see the fine school-buildings scattered all over the kingdom, even to the farthest noi-th. Entering a town or vil- lage, almost invariably the structure that is the most conspicu- ous is the school-house, in which the people take great pride. When he gains a better acquaintance with the country, he is astonished at the number of institutions of learning it con- tains. He wonders that in that far away and barren corner of Europe the people, though poor, have such a love of knowledge; that the study of the sciences and foreign languages is very common, and that the inhabitants strive to root out ignorance from their land. Visiting the scliools, he is surprised to see how well managed they are, and that a gymnastic hall, fully equipped, is attached to each one, showing that the body is as well taken care of as the mind. He finds that, among the regulations, the younger children have to go out of the build- ing every hour for an airing, and play in the yard for about ten minutes. Every school has a library, provided from a fund, and additions of books are made at each terra. I have seen in some more than 30,000 volumes. Many besides have FIXE SCHOOL BUILDINGS. 379 museums, with zoological, geological, and botanical collections. The smaller scholars learn from the black-board to read music. Tlie children of the poor are neatly dressed, for the parents feel that it would be a shame to send them otherwise. It has always been a cause of sorrow to me, while travelling in Europe, to come in contact with communities where the great 8CUOOL-UOU8E AT HAPAEANDA. mass of the people did not care for education until quite re- centlj^ preferring to see their government or their cities spend in the construction of theatres enormous sums of money, which could have built thousands of school-houses in the midst of a vast population that could neither read nor write. I am not speaking here against theatres, for I myself attend them, nor against amusements, for they are necessary for the health of the body as well as of the mind ; only I would have the school -house first, and should prefer to live in the poorest town provided with one, where children can be \vell educated, rather than in a beautiful city without any. No country can 380 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. thoronglily love education unless the people sincerely respect those wlio instruct its youth ; and I was particularly glad to notice in Scandinavia how much the teachers were esteemed, their calling being considered a high one: the educating of the future generation is fully appreciated. This is partly due to the fact that the school-teachers are unusually prohcient, most of them being graduates of the universities. In dis- tricts where the population is sparse, the country school-mas- ter, a peasant himself, not a graduate, nor knowing enough to enable him to teach the studies the law requires, is neverthe- less held in high regard by the good farmers, and is always welcome in the family circle. I was specially pleased to see tlie consideration shown by parents to the governesses of their children. They are generally highly educated, and regarded as part of the family, and, as well as tutors, are treated by all with a great deal of respect. Compulsory education has been enforced for a long time in Scandinavia. A law was passed by the Swedish Diet in 1842, requiring every child to attend a school, or to receive instruc- tion at home, from the ninth year to the time of confirma- tion at home, from the ninth year to the time of confirmation. Norway followed the lead of her consort in 1848, making edu- cation compulsory between the ages of eight and fifteen. By the census of 1873 the population of Sweden was 4,297,972;* of which, according to the latest statistics, the whole number of children of school age was 734,165, or 17 per cent. Of this numl)er 371,622 were boys, and 362,543 girls. Nearly 83 per cent., or 607,986 children, attended the primary and people's schools : of these, 239,517 the stationary, 149,565 the ambulatory, 218,616 the primary, and only 288 the hogi-e folkskolor. In other public schools 9293 were instructed; in private ones 29,405; at home, 68,682; altogether, nearly 15 per cent, of the children of school age. The grand total, therefore, was 715,366, or over 97 per cent, of all the chil- dren of that age. Those who, for one cause or another, did not attend school, were 18,799. The number of people's schools was 3973, of which 2805 were stationary, and 1168 ambulatory, besides 414 3 nursery, and 10 higher people's * III 1879 it was 4,578,l)0h THE SCHOOL SYSTEM. 381 schools, making a total of 812G, or about one for every 529 inhabitants. The teachers numbered 5039 males and 2776 females. Of the former 3444, and of the latter 564, were employed in the people's schools; 1585 males and 2212 females in the primary; and at the higher people's schools, 10 males. Of the male teachers 3215, and of females 485, had graduated at a semi- nary of learning. The population of Norway in 1875 was 1,817,000, and the whole number of school children was 267,000, of whom 211,000 were instructed in the stationary ; in ambulatory, 30,000 ; in private schools of the same scope as the almue- skolor (people's schools), 4000 ; in the higher ones and under private teachers, 17,000 ; while 5000, from various causes, re- ceived no instruction. The instruction was given by 3900 teachers, male and female. The whole number of stationary people's schools was 4470, with 2266 teachers. The ambula- tory numbered 1911, with 999 teachers. Of higher people's schools there were 19, with 467 pupils, besides 20 people's high-schools, with about 400 pupils. The lower schools of the towns were attended by 33,200 children, with 638 teachers. The average salary of a Norwegian or Swedish country teacher is about 500 kronor, besides which he gets a house and a piece of land to cultivate. The educational system of Sweden, as well as that of Nor- way, is worthy of great praise. The f I'ee-schools include Sm^- barnsskolor, or primaries, which instruct children under the school age in the rudiments of religion, reading, writing, men- tal arithmetic, and singing. The folkskolor (people's schools) are of two kinds, the stationary and the ambulatory ; the lat- ter being under the care of teachers, as we have seen in the course of these volumes, who go from place to place at stated periods. The instruction in the folkskolor is reading, religion, and Biblical history, Bible reading, and the memorizing of hymns and selected pieces out of a Reader, combining natural his- tory, the elements of natural sciences, and the history of the country, besides singing, writing, reading, written arithmetic. 382 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. and, if circumstances allow, gymnastics and military exercises. The School Board can, if so disposed, extend this curriculum also to grammar, geography, history, natural sciences, drawing, surveying — and, for girls, needle-work — and, in the country dis- tricts, liorticulture or gardening. These schools are generally open for eight months in the year in the southern part of the country, and nine or ten months elsewhere. In most places instruction is given every week-day, but in others only on live days; and in the ambulatory schools the pupils are examined on the sixth day. The daily period of attendance is from five to six hours. The folkhogskolor (people's high-schools) have only lately come into existence ; their object being to instruct young men and women of the working-classes, who have already attained an age far beyond that required by law for attending school. The studies here pursued comprise a more extended course of the subjects taught in the free-schools, besides the elements of useful sciences and their application. There are fourteen of them. For the instruction a small fee is charged, the schools mainly deriving their support from private subscrip- tions, and from appropriations by the county or the State. The nation is continually progressing, and the lujgre fulk- skolor, or higher people's schools, which were established in 1858, in 1875 numbered ten, with ten teachers. They are open only during the winter months, and their purpose is to give to such children of the working-classes as are endowed witli greater capacities and desire for learning an opportunity to acquire a higher degree of knowledge, without detriment to their occupation. The course of instruction is the same as in the folkskolor, book-keeping and free-hand drawing being added, but the studies are extended. The teachers are required to be graduates from one of the universities. The State con- siders itself bound to give free education only so far as is provided by these institutions. The elementary schools are divided into two grades, the lower and higlier; the smaller towns having only the former, which has five classes or less; the higher, seven. In both, the studies are the same in the corresponding sections, but schol- STUDIES IN ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS. SSS ars of the lower grade liav^e to go through tlie course of study of the last two classes of the higher school to enter one of the universities. The course requires live years for the lirst five classes, and four years for the last two, the scholastic year being divided into two terms of eighteen weeks each. The number of these schools amounts to 9S, with 967 teachers. The object of these institutions, which also receive support from the State, is to impart a general education, and knowledge of the sciences higher than that of the people's schools. The morning exercises begin with prayer, the reading of the Bible, and the singing of hymns, which occupy half an liour. The studies are in relis-ion, in the Swedish lano^uaffe, mathematics, geometry, writing, natural philosophy, history, geography, singing, drawing, Latin, French, German, and Eng- lish ; but tliose who study Latin cannot be instructed in Eng- lish. The tasks of the two higher classes embrace a more ex- tended consideration of the same subjects, with the addition of Greek, philosophy, natural history, physics, chemistry, min- eralogy, and geology, Hebrew being optional. Instruction in gymnastics and military exercises is given to all the seven classes for half an hour every day ; besides which the fifth class is instructed for one hour, and the sixth and seventh for two hours each week, in the use of arms. At the begin- ning and end of each school year a more extended course of training is given in drill, target- shooting, and Held manoeu- vres, for eight or ten weeks, to the scholars of the sixth and seventh classes. These elementary schools are so situated that the people who desire that their children shall receive a good education are not compelled to travel very far ; for ex- ample, in the far North, Lulea has a complete institution of this kind, with seven classes. To be accepted as a puj)il in this grade of schools a boy must be not more than ten years of age, and shall pass an examination in the reading of the Swedish language, both in the Gothic and Koman characters, and be able to repeat any passage read to hiin, write a plain hand, spell tolerably, know the simple rules of arithmetic, practise mental calculation, and possess a knowledge of the geography of Norway, Sweden, and Denmark. The degrees of progress 384 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. ill study and standing in tlio class are recorded daily, ten be- ing the highest mark in each subject; and every year the pu- pils are examined. Every scholar has to pay an entrance fee of 6 kroner, and 12 kronor 50 ore per term ; so that for the modest sum of 25 kronor, or about six dollars a year, a young man can prepare himself for the University. He has, how- ever, to pay for his books. At the suggestion of the faculty of the school, the superin- tendent may exempt a poor scholar from a part or the whole of the fees required. In order to become an instructor in an elementary school, it is necessary to have taken the degree of doctor of philosophy, to have taught on trial for one year, and to have passed a competitive examination. Neglect to send a child of the prescribed age to school, or in some other manner to provide the instruction required by law, is punishable by fine in Norway ; and, in case of opposi- tion from the parents, the child can be taken away and be left at their expense with another family. In Sweden no fine is exacted. Factory owners, who employ children, regulate their work so as not to interfere with their education. The folkskolor are supported by the districts, but also re- ceive aid from the State, and are governed by a school board chosen by the people, whose president is the pastor of the par- ish, or, in the towns, a minister selected by the bishop. In the country, if farms are situated near enough together to enable thirty scholars to attend school every day, a house is erected or rented for such a purpose. Where the farms are far apart the school is ambulatory, and it is the duty of the farmers to provide rooms for the pupils and teacher, as well as board for the latter during the time the instruction lasts. In this are also embraced such holidays as may fall within this period. In Sweden the board consists of at least four members be- sides the president, elected by the voters of the parish for four years. The bishop and consistory of the bishopric have gen- eral supervision of school affairs, and are obliged to report every tliird year to the ecclesiastical department, which has supretno control of the schools. The supervision of the folks- kolor is exercised by a school inspector appointed by the head HOW THE COST OF SCHOOL IS DEFEATED. 385 of the same department. The inspectors are appointed for five years. In Norway there is one in every stift or bishop- ric. Their salaries are paid by the State, and are proportion- ate to the size of the district. They are also allowed travel- ling expenses. The private schools are under the general supervision of the public board, which, if the instruction does not come up to the standard prescribed by law, can order the children to be trans- ferred to some other institution. The cost of the school is defrayed as follows : for the erec- tion of school-houses it is procured in the same manner as for the building of churches, by taxing the real estate ; and for the pay of the teachers and necessary expenses, by an indi- vidual tax, "which cannot exceed eighteen ore for each tax- payer ; and, if this is not sufficient, and there are no other means of obtaining the amount, then the contributions are made over again in the same manner as the communal assess- ments. Under certain conditions, when the cost of the schools exceeds the limits of taxation, the government grants a sub- vention, which is principally invested to pay the teachers, who advance by a system of promotion which prevents favoritism. The highest salary is attained after twenty years of faithful service, an increase being made every five years. Once a year, in Norway and Sweden, all the boys of the free-schools are collected, and go through a great military pa- rade. Each school has its place; some of them even have a band of music, and show the public on drill day what they have learned. They are cheered by the people, who prepare a feast for them, for great interest is taken in the evolutions, especially the exercises with wooden guns. Besides the public schools there are some private schools in the towns, the graduates from a few of which have the right of admission to the universities. There are also a large num- ber of public and private professional and trades schools, in some of which fees are charged for instruction, while in oth- ers it is free. There are also seminaries for the education of male and female teachers, to which a primary school is gen- erally attached, where the future instructor has an opportunity VOL. II. 2 c 386 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. of learning liis art, and in which the tuition is free. For girls there are, besides the national schools, a large number of pri- vate elementary, and also public and private itidustrial schools. There are in the country eleven free folkskolldra7'e-semi- naricr, which are seminaries for teachers of folkskolor — seven for males and four for females. These seminaries have three classes, and the course in each class is one year ; the year con- sisting of 30 weeks, divided into two terms, with 36 hours of instruction weekly. The studies include religion, the Swedish language, arithmetic, geometry, geography, history, natural philosophy, the science of teaching writing, drawing, music, singing, gymnastics, the manual of arms, horticulture, and cul- tivation of trees. The number of students in 1875 was 780, of whom 588 were males and 192 females; and the number of graduates was 193, of whom 146 were males and 47 fe- males. In the new female seminaries there are special classes to prepare instructors for the primary schools. The " Seminarium for bildande of lararinnor " (seminary for the education of female teachers) was established in 1861, and has a corps of instructors 18 in number. In this the pupils have to go through a course of three years, but no charge is made. Instruction is given in religion, Church history, the Swedish language, including the mythology of the North, Ice- landic, French, German, and English, the history of the North, universal history, geography, natural science, hygiene, mathe- matics, and the art of teaching, besides singing, drawing, and gymnastics; and, at the option of the pupils, botany, zoology, and chemistry, natural philosophy, physiology, geometry, al- gebra, and English and German speaking exercises, etc. This institution has connected with it a normal school for girls. In the industrial schools, which are found only in the towns, instruction in different trades is given ; and in that for girls there are regular lessons in needle-work, etc. In some of the larger cities the girls also learn the common household arts of baking, washing, ironing, mending, etc. There are technical elementary schools, where young men intending to learn a trade receive, without charge, a theoreti- cal and practical education. The course lasts three years, and rOLTTECHNIC SCHOOLS. 387 comprises instruction in mathematics, linear and free-hand drawing, modelling, mechanics, mechanical technology, engi- neering, natural philosophy, chemistry, botany, zoology, mod- ern languages, book-keeping, and commerce. The number of teachers in these is from six to nine, and of pupils exceeds a thousand. There are in several towns free evening and Sunday classes, where the pupils are taught mechanical trades, and two high- er technical schools, where a tuition fee is charged. The Teknologiska Institutet (Polytechnic Institute) at Stockholm, founded in 1798, was established to give scientific education to young men intending to follow some technical business as a profession. The studies are mathematics, geodesy and to- pography, theoretical and practical mechanics, descriptive ge- ometry, physics, elementary chemistry, chemical and mechan- ical technology, geology, road and canal construction, draw- ing, mining, metallurgy, and smelting. The course continues for three years. In 1875 there were 17 professors and tutors, and 218 students pursuing the entire course, while 52 were studying only certain branches. The Chalmerska Slojdskolan (Chalmer Polytechnic School) in Gothenburg, founded in 1811, has the same course of stud- ies, except those belonging to the branch of mining. It had, in 1875, 10 teachers, one of whom was the principal. The number of scholars was 119. Two elementary raining schools are established at Falun and Filipstad, which are, properly speaking, private enterprises, be- ing supported either by the society of miners or by the Iron- masters' Association (Jernkontoret). As I have before mentioned, there are 27 agricultural schools and 2 agricultural colleges. I have given an account of the former in the first volume, with the studies required. Of the latter, one is situated at Ultuna, near Upsala, and the other at Alnarp, near Lund, in the southern part of Sweden. The first I have visited. In the colleges the studies are agri- culture and rural economy, cattle-raising, anatomy and physi- ology, diseases of domestic animals, geology, chemistry, natural philosophy, forestry, gardening, laud laws, book-keeping, farm 2 c 2 388 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. architecture, practical mechanics, machinery and map-drawings, surveying, and management of the dairy. Tlie students also have to participate in actual farm-work. The number of pu- pils in 1875 was 63, with 20 teachers. The charge for board and tuition is 600 kronor per annum, and at each college there are four free scholarships. The course is for two years. There are large tracts of land connected with Ultuna. This institution sends out some of the very best practical farm- ers in the country. Distinguished professors and teachers de- liver lectures to tlie students ; a veterinary surgeon instructs them in the diseases of cattle, and a museum, stocked with skeletons and other specimens, illustrates their lectures. Nu- merous scientific works on chemistry and agriculture are in the library; and there is a fine laboratory, in which chemistry applied to agriculture is thoroughly taught. There is also a botanical garden, where cereals of different countries are grown, and where experiments with fertilizers are made, be- sides a vegetable and fruit garden ; but the fruit-trees seemed to be neglected, it is said, on account of the poor ground. Special care is taken in the breeding and crossing of stock, and fine horses and cows are raised, many of which are sold. There is also a dairy, where great attention is paid to the making of butter and cheese. A prerequisite of admission is that the applicant must have passed the examination necessary for matriculation at the universities, or a similar one at the college. The colleges are supported exclusively by the State. There are two dairy- schools for women, where they receive theoretical and prac- tical instruction. Good care is taken of the deaf, dumb, and blind. In Swe- den there is a very fine institution, the Manilla, in Stockholm, with 208 pupils ; besides 13 smaller ones, situated in different parts of the country, with 308 inmates. In Norway there is a special institution for the blind, and four for the deaf and dumb. In Norway the scope and regulations of the Almueskolor (common people's schools) are about the same as those in Sweden. The School Board also can establish sewinor and NORWEGIAN HIGH-SCHOOLS. 389 other industrial schools, as ^vell as otliers for children under the legal school age. The higher people's schools and peo- ple's high-schools are similar to those of Sweden, except that the latter are free, although supported by private means. In the mountain districts, where, in consequence of the sparsitj of the population, even ambulatory teaching cannot be ar- ranged, the Board is empowered to provide for the instruc- tion of the children in some other manner. The Norwegian high-schools correspond very nearly to the Swedish elementary schools, the studies and the time of in- struction being the same. They, however, differ in the fact that the separate branches generally have independent schools. Of State high-schools there are 16, with 195 teachers and 2122 pupils. Of private high-schools there are 4, with 1266 schol- ars. There are 11 seminaries for the training of male teach- ers, with 313 students ; but for female teachers there is only one, situated in Christiania. In the country districts there are 100 free evening classes, most of which receive support from the State. In the towns there are 35 communal middle schools, with 173 teachers and 26,345 scholars; and 126 pri- vate middle schools, with 5592 pupils. Of private high-schools only a comparatively small number are established, owing, no doubt, to the excellence of the public schools, and these are found mostly in the largest towns. For girls there are no public schools corresponding to the elementary schools, but a considerable number of private in- stitutions, supported principally by the fees paid by the schol- ars, only a few of whom receive aid from the State. From these the graduates have the privilege of admission to the uni- versities. The yearly school time of Norway is far too short to give a practical education ; and in this respect it falls far behind that of Sweden. The Norwegian school year in the rural districts must be at least 12 weeks per annum, or, where the school is divided into classes getting instruction at different times, 9 weeks — each week being reckoned at 6 days, and every day at 6 hours, thus giving instruction for 432 — or 324 hours yearly. It is also required that in every factory employing on an av- 390 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. erage 30 men or more in steady labor, as well as in a collec- tion of smaller works lying near each other, which together have that number of workmen, there shall be constrncted and organized classes for the children of the laborers, if the own- ers of the works cannot agree with the School Board in regard to the use of the schools already in existence. In the larger towns one or more classes are organized with separate depart- ments for boys and girls, and they have to be kept open daily — each child receiving at least 12 hours' instruction each week. As a rule, no teacher may instruct more than 60 pupils at one time. A yearly examination is held in presence of the pastor of the parish and the members of the School Board. At visi- tations of bishop or pastor the children are examined in their religious knowledge. Kefractory children receive marks for bad conduct ; after which they are warned by the principal of the school twice, and if they then do not improve, they receive corporal pun- ishment. Sweden has two universities: that of Upsala was inaugu- rated September 21st, 1477, and of Lund, January 28th, 1668. The former was already a seat of learning in 12-19. At that time there was a college where the studies of theology, phil- osophy, and medicine were pursued. In 1875 the number of professors and students at Upsala were as follows : Theological Faculty. . . Law " . . . . Professors. 10 9 students. 382 142 Medical " . . . . 14 151 Philosophical " . . . . -71 104 855 Total .... 1480 The University of Lund in the same year had the following : Professors. Students. Theological Faculty 7 112 Law " 6 54 Medical " 9 44 Philosophical " 47 313 Total 69 523 GENERAL REMARKS. 391 Norway Las one universitj at Christiania, inaugurated in ISll, before "svliicli time Norwegians who desired a higher education had to go to the University of Copenhagen, that city having been for centuries the common capital of the two countries. There are 46 professors and 831 students. Tlie whole number of university students in the two coun- tries amounted to 2834, witli 219 professors. There are numerous scientific and other institutions, some of which have been described in these volumes — schools of midwifery for women, colleges of medicine, veterinary sur- gery, pharmacy, and forestry, etc., etc. Teachers, after thirty years of service, receive a pension. In Sweden each school district is bound to pay to the pen- sion fund four per cent, of the salary of every teacher. In Norway they are pensioned by the State. The system of education is so perfect that there are no private boarding- schools in either country. I have dwelt particularly upon the educational system, be- cause I consider that it has been developed to meet the re- quirements of the people in an extraordinary degree ; and, as I leave the subject, I cannot refrain from the expression of an opinion that the exam^jle so well set might be followed with favorable results by other countries which make much greater pretensions in this direction without producing so substantial an effect. 392 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XXXIV. Linkoping. — Its Cathedral.— A Water-way through South Ostergotland. — Superb Trees. — Atvidaberg. — A Night Watchman. — The Estate of Adelsnas. — A Pleas- ant Welcome. — The Manor of Adelsnas. — Unpretending Life. — Our Host and Hostess. — The Copper-mines of Atvidaberg. — Wages of Miners. — The Miners' Homes. — Kindly Manners towards the Artisans. — Politeness to Inferiors. — The Village Dancing-place. — Good Feelings. — A School for the Miners' Children. From Norrkoping* one of the highways leads to Linkoping, an inland and very old town on the shores of the Stt^ngEn River, with a population of about 8000. The cathedral, begun about 1150, has a length of 329 feet ; Roman in style, with twenty large pillars in two rows to support the roof. An- other church, St. Lawrence (St. Lars), also dates from the twelfth century. The castle, built between 1470 and 1500, is a massive but not handsome building. In the old element- ary school is a library of over 30,000 volumes, together with coins, portraits, and antiquities. From Linkoping an interesting trip is by water south, through the remaining part of Ostergotland, a distance of over one hundred miles. A canal connects the lakes with each other, and steamers make the passage every alternate day. On the way are seen some large estates with fine chateaux — among them Sturefors, one of the largest of the province ; Saby, on the Rangen Lake ; Brokind, with its fine collection of paint- ings and library, and whose park occupies several islands. Taking one of the highways which leads south of Norr- koping, I saw, a few miles from that city, the chateau of Lofsta, on a hill overlooking the road and a small lake, with its fine and shaded grounds. Farther on, after passing Fil- In one part of Sweden the names of quite a number of towns end in hoping —as Malmkoping, Nykoping, Norrkijping (norr, north), Soderkoping {soder mean- ing south), Linkoping, Lidkoping, Falkoping, and Jonkoping. A NIGHT-WATCHMAN'S SONG. 393 linge, I entered a splendid wood of pines and firs, among the finest in Sweden, and as yet untouched by tlie axe. A pict- uresque scene suddenly came into view. The fields of wheat and rye were bright with poppies, while buttercups and dan- delions relieved the green of the meadows. The weather was quite warm, and the time passed so rapidly among these beau- ties of nature tliat before I knew it I reached the station of Orsiiter, where we stopped to allow the horse to rest. As we approached the copper-mines and smelting-furnaces of Atvidaberg the distant hills looked dark and desolate, for the sulphurous smoke, carried day after day by the wind, had destroyed vegetation. I saw on a hill the family vault in which the barons of Adelswiird are buried. Soou afterwards I came to Atvidaberg, a small hamlet consisting of a row of white- plastered houses, with vegetable gardens attached. It had a comfortable hotel, which, like all the other liouses of the place, belonged to the estate. In the valley were the smelt- ing-furnaces, around which clustered the dwellings of the oper- atives — the whole forming a street of red-painted log-houses, roofed with red tiles, with a public square, and a pond with a bathing-house for the people. At some distance was a brick- yard, a foundry where iron pipes were made, and a black- smith's shop where the tools were mended. The village was silent, for its inhabitants had gone to rest. The night was beautiful; the rays of the moon mirrored themselves in the pond; the music of the water, as it plashed down from the mill, added its charm ; the smoke from the high chimneys rested among the hills in bluish streaks. The blowing of the horn of the watchman — an otficer who is found in every Swedish village — warned me that the clock had just struck, and I heard him sing, " God keep Houses and the land From fire and burning, The hour of eleven has struck. God keep The house and the land From fire and burning. The hour of eleven has struck." 394 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Atvidaberg is part of the large estate of Adelsniis, which is entailed in the family of the Baron of Adelswiird, and em- braces nine parishes ; that part which is in Ostergotland alone contains over 41,000 acres, and is one of the largest and most valuable properties in the country, on account of its copper- mines. The family dwelling is about two miles from the ham- let, on the farther shore of a small lake. On my approach- ing the water, a young girl, thirteen or fourteen years of age, rowed towards me. She was tidy and clean, her complexion fair, and thoroughly northern, her hair blonde, braided and twisted back of her head, and she was barefooted. The child ferried me over to the house. Two ladies and two gentle- men were playing croquet on the lawn, while another gentle- man was seated on the piazza. With him I exchanged saluta- tions, and presenting my letter of introduction, was welcomed in excellent English. He said his father was not at home, but received me with the air of a polished man of the world ; as I afterwards discovered, he had been in America for nine months, besides having travelled in England and in many other parts of Europe, often " roughing it," as many English noblemen do. The game of croquet seemed to be disturbed for awhile by ni}^ arrival. I was presented to the guests and the members of the family; and refreshments having been brought in, we kept up a pleasant conversation. The charm- ing hostess, a model of simplicity, was attired in a pretty cal- ico dress, fitting like a glove, with a plain white collar, and a ribbon fastened with a simple brooch. The other ladies were dressed in the same unostentatious fashion. An atmosphere of repose surrounded this unpretending abode. The view of the lake, a shady walk under a row of tall trees, beds of flowers, large spreading oaks, and white- trunked birch and other trees, and the green grass, gave a great charm to the place. Near the mansion were the graperies and hot-houses, which, among other things, contain- ed apricots and peaches on trellises; also forced strawbei-ries, cherries, and raspberries. A long white house, with only one story and roofed with tiles, contained bedrooms for guests. At the manor the life was simple and unostentatious. Dur- J nOME SCENE. 3D5 ing the warm days the drawing-room windows were open, to let in the bahny air, and to enable the mother or attendants to watch the children playing upon the lawn; their school- days were now over, vacation had come, and the tutor of the boys and the governess of the girls were soon to leave on a visit to their friends. The merry laugh of the young peo- ple fell pleasantly upon the ear, and now and then the half- hidden smile of the mother showed that she could hear and was enjoying the happiness of her little ones. Industry is part of a lady's education in Sweden, and idle habits are very seldom indulged in, even by members of the aristocracy. The duties of house-keeping are not considered below the dignity of the high-born or of the wealthy. They are often busy with their needle- work, which does not pre- vent their taking part in agreeable conversation. Dinner was social, and the table was adorned with a beau- tiful silver vase — given by Gustaf III. to the family of the baron — in which was a large bouquet of fresh flowers. There was no formality ; the conversation was pleasant and varied ; and nothing was wanting that could make the repast agree- able. The governess was also at the table. After coffee, a drive or walk wound up the day. The hostess and myself occupied one carriage. The good lady, as I learned, always provided herself with a bag of new pennies for the little children who were watching at the gates on the road to open them for travellers. The largest of the Atvidaberg mines is that at Bersbo, with a depth of 1286 feet, while that of Mormorsgrufvan attains a depth of 1360 feet, the greatest in Sweden. These are the most important, but there are several smaller ones. According to appointment, the baron in his carriage drove me to the copper -mines of Bersbo, six English miles from the smelting- furnaces, the ore being transported by a rail- way. I declined the invitation to go 1200 feet under- ground, and wind my way through the dark galleries and narrow passages. The mine employed from -±00 to 500 per- sons, whose wages ranged that year from 40 to 60 kroner a month each. Women, girls, and boys were also employed 396 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. to assort and treat the ore preparatory to smelting, making from four to six kronor weekly. The women were work- ing, while their children played around ; some of the mothers had left their babies under the care of elder sisters. None appeared coarse or dirty. Some two hundred females and quite a number of children were employed; for among the poorer classes of the Swedes, as with the thrifty French and Germans, every member of a household helps in its support. Besides their pay, each family received every year ten cords of wood and lodging free. The rooms in the cottages were about 18 feet long by 14 or 15 wide; a spacious hall ran through each dwelling, and each had an upper story, with a detached store-house for wood and provisions. The floors in all I visited were very neat, and everything about the houses was exceed- ingly tidy. Sewing-machines were quite common : the furni- ture was plain ; a few wooden chairs, a clock, simple pictures, a bed or two, and a stove, made up the frugal appointments. Many of the houses contained looms, with which the mother or the elder daughter wove cloth for the family, when they had time to spare. On the walls of some of the rooms hung tin boxes, used to keep leaves or flowers collected by the miners' children on their botanical excursions, for the love of botany is extensively cultivated in Sweden. In one cottage a poor widow was quietly weaving, and by her side a bright- looking lad was studying, in preparation for entering the high-school in Linkoping : a part of the little money left by the father was appropriated to the education of this lad. I was struck with the kindly manner with which everybody was treated. Now and then a poor barefooted working-wom- an came to the superintendent to make some inquiries; as soon as he was addressed he at once uncovered his head, notwithstanding a very warm sun, and listened to her, paying attention to her remarks, and showing no sign of impatience ; his answers were made in a quiet and polite way. It would be well if the higher classes everywhere should give the example of good-breeding to the humble. The baron never entered a miner's cottage without uncovering and remaining so while he was under the roof of his workman. A RURAL SCENE. 397 When the miners or their families fell ill, they were cared for at the expense of the baron ; and if a man was killed, a pension was given to his family. When I asked the superin- tendent, "Do you not turn away the wife and children of a deceased miner, and leave them to shift for themselves?" his answer was, " No, indeed !" with a look of disgust, as if the very thought of such a selfish act had never been entertained by the owner of the estate, and would be considered wicked by himself and the community. Now what are the results of the support of schools, and of a certain degree of education among the working-people? To what does this politeness of all classes towards each other tend? Simply this: to bring about a better state of feeling in all the different elements of society, and to produce mutual consideration. A few strikes have taken place in Sweden, but only within late years ; ordinarily, a disagreement and the causes of a dispute are talked over by employer and employ- ed as among intelligent rational beings ; there are no threats of intimidation, no arson, no carrying of arms, no murder, no lying in ambush, and beating of those who do not wish to join the strike ; no armed bands parading streets and districts with looks of anger and hate ; no hooting, no vulgar language, no oaths debasing the children who hear them, and brutalizing still more those who utter them. There is a pleasant spot near the church, shaded by fine old oak-trees, under the branches of which the workmen, their wives, and the village people meet, and, seated on the grass, listen to the music. All the musicians are either miners or workmen. A circular dancing -floor had also been built on this place by the baron's father especially for the use of the people — an act which showed the kindly feeling that existed. The baron and his family rarely failed to come to the social meeting. I noticed the politeness, and at the same time the manliness of the villagers, of the miners, and working-men who were present ; there was none of that extreme obsequi- ousness from the humble to their superiors which one so often meets in many countries ; while at the same time there was not the slightest show of authority or display of pride 308 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. on the part of the latter, who, by their position, might have thought themselves entitled to receive homage from those they employed. A visit to the public school showed the beneficial influence it exerted morally, socially, and intellectually. These miners' children were all very attentive to their studies, and tidy in their persons. Each girl had a colored calico handkerchief over her head, in true Swedish fashion, with the hair nicely combed, and face and hands clean ; they attended the classes for three days in the week, and none of them seemed to be overworked. The boys were all barefooted, but their feet were clean, being washed often during the day ; they all looked happy, and evidently enjoyed the exercises of the hour: the marching and countermarching was regulated by the stroke of a bell. In one of the rooms music was written on a black- board, and the children sang from these notes, the teacher pointing with a wand from bar to bar ; in this way they learned to read music at sight. One class was composed of girls and boys, the girls occupying all the front seats and the boys the rear. Some children of seven years of age wrote sentences on their slates for me, and their bright eyes shone merrily as I read them. It was with regret that I parted from this Arcadian spot, where the wealthy and the mining population were so friend- ly. I do not know of any place in any part of the world, either in a mining or manufacturing district, wdiere the feel- ing is so cordial between employer and employes. It left a deep impression upon my mind, and reflects great credit on the noble rich family of Adelswiird : may their descendants follow their example. THE PROVINCE OF SM ALAND. 399 CIIxVPTER XXXY. The Province of Sra&land. — A Thrifty Population. — ^Vexio. — Poor Stations. — Gam- leby. — Westervik. — Visits at the Parsonage. — A Festive Occasion. — A Concert by Ladies. — Oscarshamn. — Kalmar. — A Holiday. — Bad Temper of tlie People. — A Beautiful Highway. — Grand Beech and Oak Trees. — Great Variety of Mush- rooms. — Poor Food at the Stations. — The Churches of Hagby and Voxtorp. — Nearing Blekinge. A FEW miles east from Atvidaberg one enters SinSland, a large but a very poor province of Sweden. Many parts arc either barren or covered with moorland, forests, and also nu- merous lakes — of which the chief is the Asnen, whose shores are extremely picturesque. The people are so frugal that it is a saying among the Swedes, " Put a Snifdander on a barren rock in the sea, and he will manage to make his living," There are a number of seaports, among them Westervik, Oscarshamn, MonsterS,s, and Kalmar. Tliere is only one inland town of importance, Yexio, with a population of a little over 4000 inhabitants. The place is prettily situated on the shores of a lake, and a small rivulet runs through it. It has an ex- cellent elementary school. Its cathedral was built about 1300, and contains the grave of St. Sigfried, one of the apostles of the l^orth. In the church-yard is a monument over the grave of the poet Tegner, who was bishop of Vexio. Near the town are the episcopal residence and the central hospital. On an island in the lake are the ruins of the castle of Kronoberg. The town is connected by a short railway with the trunk line which traverses the country from Mai mo in the south to Stockholm. The morning of my departure from Atvidaberg was clear and bracing ; the country was the more beautiful for the rain of the day before ; everything looked fresh, though some of 400 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. tlie rye, whicli here grows very high, was prostrated. Travel- ling was very pleasant, as the roads were not dusty. Beyond, a chain of small hikes ran towards the Baltic in a south-easterly direction. At a short distance from the village a cross-country road, with a post station, led from the main high- way through a charming country as far as the village of Gam- leby, on the sea. The cross-roads increase largely in number to- wards the south, and often pass in so many directions that the VEXIO OATUEDKAL, FUOM THE SOUTH-WEST. traveller is at a loss which to choose when desirous of getting out of the more direct highway. The landscape continued to become more picturesque ; the rocky hills were covered with trees, the fields were in fine condition, and the banks of the lakes were dotted with small thriving farms. At Ofverum there was a large manufactory of agricultural implements; mowing and threshing-machines and ploughs were made here, the machinery being moved by w\ater-power. It was late in the afternoon when I entered Gamleby. The A FEAST AT A PARSONAGE. 401 situation of this village is quite picturesque, at the head of a narrow fjord ; a small stream runs through it, upon the banks of which a saw and two other mills are kept busy during the summer months. There was a Tingshus, or court-house, built of stone, which was used partly as a hotel ; the station was good. Some of the houses were painted white or light green, but the greatest number were red, and roofed with red tiles ; numerous pots with flowers in bloom ornamented the win- dows. From here one can go to Westervik either by land or water ; but in order to take the road it is necessary to be fer- ried over the fjord. A small steamer runs daily between the two places, leaving every morning at half-past six o'clock. After a pleasant sail of an hour and a half we came along- side the quay of Westervik, a town of 5500 inhabitants, and possessing two ship-yards and some factories. The streets are paved with very small cobble-stones put close together, and walking is difhcult and fatiguing to those unaccustomed to such pavements, unless they wear thick -soled shoes. The houses are spacious and airy, with large yards. If relay-sta- tions are bad as regards food, one is sure to find in a town a comfortable hotel where the table is good, and this place was no exception to the rule. At Atvidaberg a letter of introduction had been kindly- given me to Dr. B , a learned jDrofessor living in "Wester- vik, who did all he could to make my stay agreeable. I was invited by the pastor to join a party of gentlemen at dinner, and was received very warmly and hospitably by him and his wife. The entertainment was given in honor of the School Board of Examiners ; thirty gentlemen were present, nearly all of whom could speak French, German, and English ; and the so- ciable and pleasant manners of the company were very agree- able. According to the custom, where so great a number of guests are assembled together, we helped ourselves, and took seats at little tables in the different rooms. A toast was pro- posed by the pastor in honor of the School Board of Examiners, and we all exchanged bows with them before sipping the wine. Afterwards the host kindly proposed my health, and paid me ■the high compliment of saying that I was known in Sweden, VOL. II. ' " 2d 402 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. and was welcome in the country. I felt uncomfortable at such pointed remarks, but again we all bowed to each other. Coffee was, served under the trees in the garden, and then we separated. During the summer months musicians and theatri- cal bands travel through the country, and on this evening a concert was given in the high-school building, which began at seven o'clock. The performers w^ere three ladies, one of whom played on the violin, another on the violoncello, and the third on the piano ; they were excellent musicians, and one sang finely. The audience was large, for Westervik seemed to have turned out in a body on this occasion. From Westervik the sail along the shore is pleasant, as it generally is in summer on the tranquil waters of the Baltic ; for at this season the sea is seldom rough. Either by land or by steamer one may reach Oscarshamn, on a small bay protected by numerous islands, with a j)opula- tion of 5500 inhabitants ; it has ship-yards, a machine-shop, and a foundry. Farther south is the port of Kalmar, the most im- portant in Sniilland, with a population of about 10,000. The situation of the city is very picturesque. The streets are wide and clean, and paved with cobble-stones ; the houses are gener- ally two stories in height, with large rooms ; and on the public square is the church, a fine, spacious building. The streets extend at right angles from the square, and lead to everj part of the town and to the old fortifications. At intervals you see some queer old-fashioned pumps, which supply the people with Avater. The old ramparts are the pride of the place. Upon them a park-like garden has been created ; the ample ground being tastefully laid out with beautiful lawns, grov^es, hedges ten feet high, and chestnut, elm, maple, apple, and other trees, and a flower-garden. From this can be seen the Baltic, the island of Oland, and the vessels at anchor. The ancient Kalmar during heathen times was a great mar- ket-place, and afterwards was known by the expedition, the so- called Kalmare Ledung, of Sigurd Jorsalafar to Smaiand. It was long the greatest city of Southern Sweden, and for centu- ries was considered the key to the country, being strongly for- tified. Among the many historical events which have taken II THE CASTLE OF KALMAli. 403 place within its walls was the Diet of 1332, when Skjinc, Ilal- land, and Blekinge submitted to the Swedish Crown ; hut a sum of 70,000 marks had to be paid to the Duke of Ilolstein and others, who held these provinces as pledges for money loaned to the King of Denmark. In 1397 there was a Diet, when the so-called Kalmar Union was concluded. It contained the following provisions : 1. That all three kingdoms should alwaj's be united, and have one and the same king. 2. A new king should be cho- sen by the councils of tlie three united king- : doms, together and unanimously, but not by each kingdom sejv arately. 3. Each king- dom should be gov- erned by its own laws and customs. Besides these, there were sev- eral similar articles. This covenant was written on parchment in duplicates, which are preserved. f\r, • -1 .-I Oa.VT-OF-\RMS OF KING CHRISTIAN I. OF DENMARK, SWF.DEN', VJlLen Smce naS tne ^j^.j, norwav, dttbino the time of the kalmak union. city been exposed to attacks of the enemy. The old castle, built shortly before the year 1200, is still standing, and its interior has for many years been undergoing a restoration to its original appearance. The great object of attraction is the octagon bedroom of Erik XIV., in one of the turrets. The ornamentation of the ceil- ing and inlaid floor, and other adornments of the apartment, were the work of the king's own hand. This castle was once changed into a still ; then into a granary ; and was left at last to perish, until Oscar, father of the present monarch, interposed for the preservation of this historic pile ; but, with the excep- tion of the ramparts and castle, nothing remains to indicate the antiquity of the town, for it has suffered greatly from fires. '' 2 D 2 401 THE LAND OF THE MIDNUinT SUN. The Kalmar Union was substantially in existence from 1389 to 1521, though several times interrupted by jealous M-ars. In 1521 the first Wasa appeared, and the Danish power was broken. One midsummer day found me in Kal- mar, when the ringing of the morning bells called the faithful to the church ; the edifice M'as large, but the congregation was small, and composed principally of women. The city had a gala appearance; the people were dressed in their holiday garb, and steamers were crowded with them going to Oland to spend the day. Good-looking girls were dil- igently taking passengers in their boats from one place to another, reaping a good harvest of cash. On this part of the coast the mid- summer dance is often marred by scenes of drunkenness, and the May-pole festival ends in a general fight. I was present at one, and was startled by the evident specimen of row- dyism, and the use of the knife. The people around Kalmar are among the worst charac- ters I met in Scandinavia; and, with those of Blekinge, arc noted for their fiery tempers. It was common in former days for women of the latter province, when they went to these dances, to take linen witli them in case their husbands or brothers were wounded ; people not unfrequently were killed, especially in the frontier towns. They used to wrestle with knives, the men divesting themselves of their garments, and putting a belt around their waists which encircled both ; then each holding a knife in his right hand, and with the other clasping the wrist of his opponent's knife-hand, they tried to cut each other. Among the highways leading out of the city of Kalmar the one running parallel with the shores of the Baltic southward is very charming, and passes in the midst of the most ro- mantic part of Smaiand, and for about thirty or forty miles presents a constant and ever-changing panorama, with tracts of lovely landscape ; views of the sea and the shores of Oland, OOAT-OF- ARMS OV TIIF, NIPKUTZ FAMILY, NOW EXTINOT. S ll'EliB BEECH- TREES. 405 with its windmills ; grand old beeches {Fagus sijlvatlca) and oaks, with their long, spreading branches, appear here and there. The beech-trees Avere among the finest I had seen in this or any other country ; they began to make their appear- ance on the coast only about thirty miles north of Kalmar, The great variety of the mushroom found in the forests is wonderful, the species numbering abont two thousand. Of these several hundred are not only a useful article of diet, but a great many are exceedingly palatable ; of late years they have come into general use. They arc most abundant in the north- ern forests, especially during the autumn; though this seems incredible, the data are furnished by the eminent botanist. Pro- fessor Andersson, of the Eoyal Swedish Academy of Sciences. The stations are poor, and the fare reminded me forcibly of the Swedish proverb that, "At the Smfdand stations one dines sumptuously if he has a good knapsack with him." ^.^^.'.-A &^ .\ <;;■ -^' nAGiiY oiimori. ,pf This saying can justly be applied to many other provinces than Smaland, for, as a general rule, except in cities and large villages, the food is of the plainest kind. As I had no knap- 406 TEE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. sack, and preferred to live poorly to taking one, I was content with eirgs and a piece of cold pork and coffee ; as for fresh bread, it is generally out of the question. Near one of the stations a bell was suspended to a wooden framework, above which was a cross; close by was the court-house, surrounded by a line garden ; there was also a small prison, which at that time contained no prisoners. About nine miles south of Kalmar, near the road, is the quaint and interesting church of ITagby, and, a short distance beyond, that of Voxtorp, These are very old. The middle parts or circular towers are thought to have been heathen tem- ples, which on the introduction of Christianity were altered into churches. The loop-holes in the walls were probably used to shoot arrows against enemies. The Solna church, near Stock- holm, is of the same style and period of architecture, and its tower is built of large boul- .( " ' ; ders. The earliest Swedish churches were nearly all of this shape, like the heathen temples, the priest standing in the middle, and the hearers around him ; in the same way they were accustomed to have their lagman (lawman, judge) stand in their midst and read the law to them, the people closing about him in circles The church-yards were also round, and the stones enclosing graves and mounds were generally laid in circles. These walls are still called ring -walls, al- though they now are square. When high-mass was held, the people gathered to the church from long distances ; tradesmen also came thither with the intention of selling their wares ; they had their booths erected outside of the ring- wall, which was called Bodgdnlsmur (Boothyard-wall). Among churches of circular shape there is now left only Dimbo, in Vestergot- land ; but existing foundations and remnants of others show that they formerly were common. L t /> I'LAN Ol- UAGIJY OUUUOII. as near as they could get. ^.V jy CIEM ESTATE. 407 About twenty miles south of Kalniar is the estate of Viir- iiaiiiis, which was in ancient times the seat of a jarl ; later it belonged to Gustaf Wasa, and afterwards to Axel Oxenstjerna, the chancellor of Gustavus Adulphus: at present it is owned VOXTOKP OIIUKOII AND BELFBT. by the family of Mannerskantz. There is a tine avenue of trees, about two miles long, leading to the sea. From a thick forest of pines and firs we emerged into a picturesque rolling country, and a few miles beyond entered the hamlet of Soder- akra. On approaching Blekinge, the soil becomes poorer and more sandy, erratic boulders are numerous, and the fine trees begin to disappear. i08 TRE LASV OF THE MIDSWUT SUN. CHAPTER XXXVI. The Island of Olaiid.— The Church of Albuke.— Relics of Aiicicnt Times.— The Village of Borgholm. — Imposing Ruins of Borgholm Castle. — Karl Gustaf. — The Queen's Farm. — Proud Kariu. — Celebrating the Advent of Spring. — Song wel- coming the Spring. At a short distance from the Swedish coast, near the prov- ince of SmUland, is an island called Oland, about eighty miles long and six to ten miles broad, which, with the main -land, forms a beautiful sound. A ridge with wooded slopes runs along its western shore, upon whose summit are found a great number of windmills, which add to the picturesqueness of the scene. The ridge, like the island, is of limestone, and this in the south rests on a stratum of Silurian alum slate. Often the red limestone comes to the surface, and there the soil is barren. Besides a home supply for a population of 40,000 inhabitants, the island exports from 300,000 to 350,000 bushels of grain, princij)ally wheat, every year ; is rich in apples, pears, etc., and has good hunting-grounds i it exports also lime and limestone. Formerly it was celebrated for a breed of ponies, now extinct, smaller than those of Shetland ; and it was the favorite hunt- ing resort of the Swedish king, Karl Gustaf. Few of its once superb forests of oak now remain. Some of its churches are very ancient, being of the so-called klofsadels form (saddle shape). One of these is that of Alboke. A passage from the roof connects the two towers, in one of which are rooms with the open primitive fireplace, with no chimney for the escape of smoke. In old Catholic times, when the Church owned immense tracts of land, Oland belonged to the con- vents of Yadstena and Alvastra. The island is rich in antiquities. Several ship-forms of up- raised stone are models of the vessels of the Vikings, or per- haps of more ancient inhabitants ; there are also many graves. THE EUIXS OF BORGUOLM CASTLE. 409 and numerous valuable finds, containing bronze and gold or- naments of the Koman period, some of which have been men- tioned in the chapter devoted to this subject. Euins of old castles are found, the most remarkable of which is Ismans- torp, which is mentioned in Yol. I. It is certain that Yikings dwelt on this island. The village and port of Borgholm, having a population of 800, is the most important place on the island of Oland. En- tering the harbor, we were soon moored along-side a jetty, which also acted as a breakwater. There were no vessels; the place was quiet, and only a few persons were walking in the broad streets, in which grass was growing. The old church rose above the surrounding buildings. The houses appeared comfortable, and now and then a dame or damsel looked out to see what strangers were passing by. Xear the village, on the brink of a ridge clad with bush -trees sloping rati i or abruptly to the sea, and where the limestone comes to the surface supporting a few stunted oaks, rise the ruins of the castle of Borgholm. The square court -yard is flanked by dark walls pierced with numerous windows to the third story, still intact ; but its chambers are roofless. It is a sad picture of the past. This great place once resounded with the hum of life — mighty men and beautiful women dwelt in its now deserted and crumbling remains. The ruins consist of two distinct parts. The old castle is mentioned as early as 1280, and the foundations are still extant. About the year 1312 it was occupied by Duke "Waldemar of Sweden and his con- sort, Ingeborg of Norway, daughter of King Erik (priest-hater), who married Isabel, the sister of the Scottish hero, Robert Bruce. The present castle was built by King Johan, who reigned 1568-1592. It was several times besieged and taken by the Danes — the last time in 1612 — and its possession was often an object of contention between Sweden and Denmark. Upon the walls and windows overhanging trees were grow- ing, giving to the majestic pile an aspect of desolation and silence broken only by the croak of the ravens nestling there. The view from the upper part was fine, and the beautiful day made the ruins less abloom v. 410 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Between the village and the castle was the queen's farm. It was a combination of garden and park ; the walks were lined with high hedges, formed of trees so trimmed that they re- sembled walls. Birds were hiding in the thick foliage, espe- cially nightingales ; although we were in latitude 56° 52', they were in every bush, and the air was filled with their melodies in the twilight and moonlight. Borgholm was the favorite residence of Karl Gustaf, eld- est son of Johan Casimir, the Duke of Pfalz-Zweibriick, and Catherina, daughter of Charles IX. He was at one time en- gaged to be married to his cousin Kristina, the only child of Gustavus Adolphus; but when she abandoned her intention of marrying, she selected him as her successor to the throne. Before his accession to the crown he spent most of his time at this castle, which during his residence attained the height of its glory. Karl Gustaf loved Oland, which at that time was clad with oak forests filled with deer ; and at his coronation Oland ale was served, as a compliment to his beloved island. There is an old song which still lives in the memory of the people in the neighborhood of Ismanstorp and L&nglote. There formerly lived a famous man, whose fair daughter was called "Proud Karin." She once went out with her maids — fourteen young girls, but she the fairest of them all — to en- joy themselves with songs and plays. Suddenly there came in from the sea a ship carrying a son of the Danish king. He went ashore and listened to the voice of Karin, which seemed to him like the music of a golden harp ; but when he came into the grove he was still more charmed by her beauty. He invited her to drink with him (the manner of courtship of those times), and won her assent and good-will. He then took her in his arms, carried her on board his ship, and sailed away. Proud Karin was Jarl Asbjorn's daughter, who was married to Harald, son of the Danish king, Sven Estridson, a nephew of Canute the Great. Harald, against the last wish of his fa- ther, by the cunning and power of his father-in-law, Asbjorn, excluded his brother Canute from the kingdom, who tliere- upon fled to the court of the Swedish king, Ilallstan, and re- THE EILLIXG OF CANUTE. -ill uuiiiiecl there iu peace until the death of his brother Harald in 1080. Canute had many friends in Sweden and Scania, but was not liked by the Danes. When he came to reign in Den- mark he fostered Christianity in every way; but the worldly power and distinction he gave to the clergy, calling them into his councils in preference to jarls and others of high rank, awakened against him the enmity of the most powerful men of his kingdom. This, however, would not have caused him much trouble, for the people in general were easily persuaded that it was right that the servants of God, and those who took care of souls, ought in worldly matters to be treated with more regard than the king's servants and those who had charge simply of the material affairs of the country ; but when he imposed tithes, and collected them with great severi- ty, then the peasants arose, and a rebellion was soon in full blast. The king retired to Odense, whither Jarl Asbjorn went, assuring him of bis friendship. Canute did not sus- pect any wrong, and easily agreed that Asbjorn should go to the rebels and sue for peace ; but no sooner had he met tliem than he urged an attack on the king at once, as the lat- ter had only a small force : w'hich they did. Asbjorn led the forces, and came upon the king as he was praying at the al- tar of St. Alban's Church, where he killed him. Asbjorn had red hair, and since that time red liair is in the North consid- ered indicative of a treacherous mind. One of the ancient customs preserved in some parts of Swe- den is that of welcoming the advent of spring. The evening before the first of May is called Valborg Mass-eve : in mediseval times mass was celebrated. Even before darkness has come, in many districts lads of neighboring farms are seen engaged in collecting material for bonlires, and to stack it on the top of the highest and nearest hill ; generally each hamlet has its sep- arate fire, and they vie with each other in having the brightest ; often from an eminence may be seen at once twenty or thirty of these blazing piles. The old folks remain at home, and pay special attention to the number of fires — if it is odd or even, if the sparks fly northward or southward : if odd, with a north wind, the spring will be cold ; with a southern one it will bo 412 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. M-ann. When the Avell-fed flames are at the highest, a ring is formed by the young men and Avomen ; or, if the crowd is large, two or three, and the sliing polka, a very pretty and graceful dance, wdiich varies according to the different prov- inces, is enjoyed by those who participate in the frolic ; the dancing is accompanied by singing, So did we go out on Valborg Mass-eve For to dance ; So did we upon the Iiigliest mountain go. Oil hey ! Let us be merry. I liave played on Valborg Mass-eve, Tralle-ralle-ralle-rej ; Out did I go with both hat and gloves, Hey tralle-ralle-ralle-rej. Hey, how merry it is to dance ! We as others. We all join in a ring, We all dance around ; The fire burns on the rock. Hey, how merry it is to dance ! Another spring custom is also observed in the South, though fast disappearing. The young men of the hamlets assemble on Valborg Mass-eve at dusk, and go around among the farms car- rying birch-twigs with newly opened leaves, and sing the May song before every door ; whereupon, in case they meet with a good reception, they put twigs over the porch. Baskets are also brought along, in which are collected the gifts received, consisting mostly of a liberal supply of eggs ; these are used at a feast which takes place on Whit-Sunday, w^ien, between plays and dances, abundance of pancakes and other good things are served. The May song is as follows : Good evening, if home ye are. May is welcome ! Excuse us if we wake you up. Summer is sweet for young folks. MAT soxas. 4K Now we come to your farm, May is welcome ! And ask if you will let us sing. Summer is sweet for young folks. For now we carry May into hamlet, May is welcome ! And praise it with songs new. Summer is sweet for young folks. The little lark's sweet song, May is welcome ! Goes up to the skies with May song. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. For winter's constraint now has left the land, May is welcome ! For leaves and grass now are green. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Welcome is the month of May, May is welcome ! God bless this summer mild ! Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Give us an abundant year, May is welcome ! Guard both house and farm. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Hop-vines yield on the poles, May is welcome ! Then bitter wormwood in the meadows. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Give milk and cheese so sweet, May is welcome ! Buekweat also for mush. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Give the beeswax and honey sweet. May is welcome ! For healing, food, and candles, and mead. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. 414 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. Let the hen lay eggs on plates, May is welcome ! For pancakes and egg-cakes. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Now we put sprigs on your porch, May is welcome ! That you can see to-morrow by day. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. Good-night, and thanks to you. May is welcome ! For the gift was very good. Be glad now for such a sweet summer. In case the song should not awaken any attention in the party for whom it is intended, the following end verse is sung : Then lie and lie, thou lazy ox, Till crows and ravens shall drive thee out ! This festival is a remnant of the religion of the Scandina- vians in heathen times. On that day it was the custom to sacrifice children on the top of the stendosar or cromlech (which is represented in Vol. I \ and the people danced until the sun rose. XHE rilOVIME OF BLEEINGE. 415 CHAPTER XXXVII. The Province of Blekinge. — Opening the Road-gates. — Love for Flowers. — Cleaa Cottages. — The Sin of wasting Bread. — The Horror of Perjury. — Women working in the Fields. — The Custom of Betrothal, — A Happy Population. — The Dance of the Elves. — A Beautiful Vision. — About the Elves. — A Charming Night. — The Ball of the Trees. — A Happy Maiden. — Songs. — Xot so Primitive a People. — Karlskrona. — The Swedish Navy. — The Nettraby Kiver. Feom Smaland I entered Blekinge, one of Sweden's most picturesque provinces, celebrated all over the country for tlie beauty of its women. Its landscape scenes are very diversi- fied ; here the soil is barren and stony ; there the country be- comes fruitful, and presents rural scenery of great loveliness. Though the province is not more than seventy miles in length and about twenty-five miles in its greatest breadth, more than three hundred lakes and lakelets are scattered over its surface. Luxuriant woods and groves greet the eye everywhere ; colos- sal oaks, with gigantic spreading branches, which are among the largest in Sweden, and the finest in Europe for grace and beauty, and magnificent beech-trees, excite the astonishment of the stranger. The coast makes a sudden sweep, running east and west, and its shores are indented by numerous bays, and lined with superb trees growing even to the edge of the sea. Here and there are hamlets or farms, with tiled and thatch-roofed houses painted red. In some districts the farms are large ; often the roads lead- ing to the towns are lined with trees, and the fields protected by stone walls, while others are ditched instead of being fenced. Now and then on a bare granite hill or on some charming spot stands the windmill, the sails of which move briskly to grind the grain. The house of the miller is always close at 416 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. liaiid, and there is generally a faithful dog 'patching while the fanners with their carts are waiting for their grist. Here, as in Dalecarlia, of which we have spoken, and other places, the roads are often barred by a fence to keep the cattle within bounds, and children are looking for travellers. As soon as one makes his appearance there is a general scramble, each anxious to be the first to open the gate, and earn the cop- pers which they hope to receive. OPENING TnE GATE. There is perhaps no province where the love of flowers is greater than in Blekinge. In summer the garden surrounding even the poorest house is usually gorgeous with bright col- ors ; while in many a window, through snowy muslin curtains, can be seen an array of plants loaded with blossoms, belonging to the female members of the family. It is considered a great compliment when one of these flowers is given to a friend. The poorest of the people know how to make their rooms cheerful with Nature's bounties. Under glass tumblers shoots or cuttings are raised, which, when large enough, are trans- planted with great care. On one of the latter days of June I was jolting on my way towards the road that skirts the shores of the Baltic on the GOOD HABITS OF THE PEOPLE. 417 eastern part of the province. My horse was going slowly, for the day was warm ; many of tlie wild flowers were drooping under the powerful rays of the snn. The poppies displayed their gorgeous tints among the tall, waving fields of rye and wheat in bloom, and the bright blue of the Centaurea cyanus was beautiful. Tlie air was perfumed with the fra- grance of the red and white clover; farm-houses were scat- tered about ; cows and horses were grazing in the fields, with children watching them. Now and then I met peculiar carts drawn by two oxen, or long kiirra, on their way to a farm or a hamlet. The majority even of the humblest cottages are spotlessly clean, for the peasants of Central and Southern Sweden are neat ; the floors by their whiteness attract the attention of the stranger. Everything is in place, and in summer wild flowers are displayed in cups and saucers to create a cheerful aspect. Old matrons and blooming girls are spinning, weaving, knit- ting, or doing needle-work ; and bareheaded and barefooted, blue-eyed and flaxen-haired, children are playing around their humble home, their rosy cheeks and happy faces reminding one very forcibly that wealtli is not essential to bring health and content. As I was going along I saw a woman put carefully on a stone a piece of bread wliich she had been eating; the Swede or Norwegian never tlirows bread on the ground, but, when on the road, after they have satisfied their hunger, they lay the remainder carefully on a spot where tlie passer-by, if hungry, may find and eat it. They think it sinful to cast away the gift of God. I have even seen persons when a piece of bread fell down pick it up and kiss it. Farther on I met a strapping fellow of twenty-two years of age, with a happy face, who was coming from the parsonage with a paper in his hand which he showed me with great pride. Every Swede, male or female, leaving his village or city for some other part of the country, is obliged by law to have a certificate of character, called prestbetyg (clergyman's certifi- cate). This document contains the name of the person as num- bered on the register of the parish church, his vocation, date of birtli, whether married or single, if vaccinated, and his VOL. II. 2 E 418 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. qualifications in reading and writing. There are three degrees or classes in education, and the class to which each belongs IS indicated in the certificate, as is also the rank in Christian knowledge — whether the individual has attended the husfur- hor, a meeting where all the people of a parish are examined in Scripture once a 3'ear by the pastor, whether confirmed or not, and has attended communion, and the general moral character. If one has been in prison, or had an illegitimate child, it is so stated. Among the customs of the Swedes, showing their horror of perjury, is the viirjemalsed, or " oath of defence." When the evidence against an accused person is insufiicient to convict, though there is a strong presumption of guilt, the judge gives him a chance to clear himself by the above oath. Before this can be taken, however, he is sent to his pastor, who solemnly instructs him on the nature and responsibility of an oath, and who gives him a certificate that he has been thus instructed, which he must produce to the court before he can be sworn. This may be required in cases where there is only one witness, or one unworthy of belief, or where witnesses contradict each other. Many women were busy in the fields, weeding potatoes, beets, turnips, and carrots. The meadows were being mown, and the cut -grass filled the atmosphere with its fragrance. The maidens were superb specimens of womanhood, the em- bodiment of health and strength, and often were beautiful, with that exquisite Swedish complexion already described, and which, strange as it may appear, is not burned by the sun. In consequence of the warmth, they wore only tlieir white hnen cliemises, made fast with a scarf around the waist, and a picturesque red head-dress. Their bare legs were as white as milk, and they moved gracefully about, in simple nncon- sciousness of their odd attire, as they busily raked the hay. A gay crowd of damsels and lads in their holiday dress were on their way to a neighboring farm, where a feast given in honor of a betrothal was to take place. A betrothal in Scandinavia is celebrated in a festive manner. In the coun- try districts the engaged couple often go before the clergy- .1 BETROTHAL. 419 man, wlio, in presence of the respective families, says : " Before God the All-knowing, and in presence of these witnesses, 1 ask thee if thou wilt have him (or her) for thj betrothed?" After an affirmative answer from both, rings are exchanged as a pledge; these are worn on the ring-tinger of the left hand. ■f^-'k-^' BLEKINGE MA.IDBN BAKING UAi'. The custom of going before the parson is dying out. In the cities, or among the educated classes, after a gentleman and a lady have become engaged, both their names are written on a single visiting card and sent to all their acquaintances, this being a notice of the betrothal ; it is also published in the newspapers. The lady, after her engagement is announced, is allowed to go alone with her affianced, and they are often seen 2 E 2 420 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGUT SUN. together without their families at balls or places of amusement. But even in Scandinavia engagements are sometimes broken. Nothing but a plain gold ring is given, even among the most wealthy. The wedding-token is of the same character. When a woman lias a family she wears three rings as a mark of dis- tinction, of which many feel very proud, though this last fash- ion is going somewhat into disuse. It is only in the country that weddings are interesting, for in the cities the ceremony is the same as in other lands. On Sunday afternoons, in every hamlet, on the grass un- der the trees were groups of peasants — hard-working men during the week — quietly amusing themselves ; fiddlers were playing while the people were dancing, and all were in holiday attire. I thought that in no country had I met with a more happy and contented population. One evening after sunset the singular condensed vapor call- ed by the peasants Elf dans — a "dance of the elves" — a soft mist, not heavy like a fog, but white and transparent, hung over the plain, forming a sort of veil through which the mead- ows, fields, and groves were visible in shadowy outlines. It was like a fairy cloud, making the whole landscape a scene of perfect loveliness ; I could see through it every flower and every blade of grass. People who were working in the fields looked like phantoms, and, though they were near, appeared to be far away. The white veil seemed to form a stratum only ten or twelve feet in height, apparently lianging in the air, gradually thickening towards the ground. We had emerged from this one when I drove into another precisely like it, and was startled by a new phase of the phenomenon. Fairy-like fig- ures were apparently intent upon preventing my farther prog- ress. The sight seemed supernatural but lovely. Yet these angels were only a group of flaxen-haired maidens partly shad- owed by the mist ; I saw only their heads and shoulders as in a haze, their bodies being wholly hidden by the thick lower strata. I felt like apostrophizing them : "Are you the daughters of Blekinge, so famed in Sweden for their beauty, or are you their spirits ?" My horse stopped, and I said, " Beautiful maid- ens! are you the Scandinavian valkyries who travel through J BOUT THE ELVES. 421 the air, or their spirits flying before rae ?'' but no answer came. The heads drew nearer and nearer, -when suddenly on the oth- er side of the road I saw other forms advancing. It seemed as if I were in another world ; the whole was like a vision ; I might have fancied myself in space, surrounded by the disem- bodied. Such scenes are often observed in some districts of Sweden in summer.* These phenomena are caused by the sudden con- tact of cold air with the warm surface of the earth, and the transparency is occasioned by the dryness of the atmosphere. Farther on a gentle zephyr came, and the vapor took a thou- sand fantastic shapes, which at times seemed to represent hu- man figures, and "the dance of the elves" began. In old times the people said that this dance always took place over the spots where good people had been buried, and where their spirits dwelt. The elves were gentle beings — the friends and assistants of the gods. They were divided into two classes — the light, or elves proper, which dwelt above-ground in Alfheim (elves' homes), and were fairer than the sun, and the dark elves, or dwarfs, which lived underground, beneath stones or in moun- tain caves, and were blacker than pitch. The former were held in such esteem that oiferings were made to them as to the gods. The dwarfs could not bear daylight, and during the day hid in their holes : none could make such arms and orna- ments as they did, for they were the finest smiths in the world, and as such continually executed work for the deities. These spirits, whose name is derived from the beautiful clear rivers, are the forces of nature which work for the good of mankind, either above or under ground — in the plant life that spreads over fertile plains, or the precious wealth of the mines. It is, however, natural that the light-winged, beautiful elves stood nearer to the empire of the gods than the heavy, clumsy, and ngly dwarfs ; the popular tales have also preserved the dis- tinction between them. * There is a painting in the royal palace in Stockholm which portrays the fairy- like scene with marked effect. 422 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. The elves are well-known nnder the names of Ellefolk or Elfvefolk (elve people), the small beings who dwell on the elf- mounds. The elf-maiden is extremely beautiful, like a snow- white lily ; her voice is silver-toned, and no one can withstand lier charms and her speech. She sometimes glides with the sun's rays through an opening in a house, but she may disap- pear very suddenly ; she is not to be depended on — often in- fatuating the mind of yonth with love ; but when he tries to embrace her, she becomes an empty form or a tree. One must be careful not to sleep by an elf-mound ; but happy is he who is privileged to hear their beautiful harps and songs on a sum- mer eve, to watch them dance in the moonlight, and to see them, swan-like, sporting or bathing in the waters. The dwarfs of the sagas were small and ill-shaped, delight- ing to deceive human beings, and steal from them things they like. They did, however, show gratitude; and when their women at childbirth asked their earthly sisters for hel]), they often gave the latter great treasures, for in their caves they possessed immense riches. On Yule -eve the stones which closed the mouth of their abodes were raised, as if by magic, upon four glowing pillars, and glimpses of their sumptuous homes appeared within ; one Avas then careful not to enter, for it was very difficult to return. It was especially maidens they wished, and those whom they had enticed were called " moun- tain-taken." Gradually the twilight became very dim; but far away towards the north the pale glow from the sun shone like the light of day fading away high up in the heavens. The night was so beautiful that I kept travelling. The aspens {Populus tremuld) were scattered here and there in groves, and, as I gazed, there seemed to come a carnival of joy among them ; their leaves quivered and danced like merry maids, as the breeze from the hills touched and kissed them on its journey to an adjacent lake. This was the ball of the trees ; the blue can- opy of heaven was their banqueting-hall ; the thousand stars were the lights; the murmur of the wind among the branches was the music ; the wild flowers scattered in the meadows were the spectators, and the still night presided over all. THE BALL OF THE TREES.— FOLK-SONGS. 423 The dim outlines of an old mansion rose in the distance like a spectral castle, while oaks near by looked on as silent witnesses of the past and the present. The ball of the trees drew towards its close ; the lights gradually disappeared, and the rustling of the leaves became fainter and fainter, for the wind was dying away with the expiring night. Darkness slowly merged into the twilight of morning, and the birds began to sing as harbingers of the coming day ; then clouds took on a golden hue, which was reflected in the lake ; the flowers raised their heads refreshed, after the heat of the pre- ceding afternoon. Then the great orb rose full of majesty and glory above the hills, and in the sunlight the dew-drops shone like precious gems. One by one the tillers of the soil appeared in the fields ; the songs of the lads and maidens, the hum of insects, the warbling of birds, the lowing of the cows, and the neighing of the horses, were mingled together. An- other morn was come, and nature took on new life, and only as one can behold it in the North. Approaching a cheerful little house with a flower-garden in front, I was startled by a sweet voice, fresh and clear ; I stood still, and beheld, unseen, a beautiful girl doing her morning work. I listened with delight to her song, as follows : When fourteen years I was, I believe, A little girl so merry and so gay, No woe I ever heard of, None either thought upon. Tra, la, la, la. Indeed, when seventeen I became. The sun shone, the cuckoo sang, and it was sprinp; • All was fair, the earth green, the heavens blue, But I, however, was wanting something. Tra, la, la, la. Yes, now it is no more as it was — Sometimes I am so sad, sometimes so merry, Sometimes I am so white, sometimes so red, And I want neither to live nor die. Tra, la, la, la. This was followed by another old folk-song full of senti- ment : 424 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. THE BRIDE'S QUESTION. Lovest thou for beauty's sake ? Love me not then ! Love the sun ! See, in gold Luxuriously do her curls glow in the blue. Lovest thou for my youth's sake ? Love me not then ! Love the spring ! It is full Always of fresh roses. Mine will soon vauisb. Lovest thou for treasures' sake ? Love me not then ! Love the Sea-queen ! Pearls, gold, Forests of corals does she offer thee. Lovest thou for love's own sake ? Oh, do then love me ! Love have I. Faithfully It has long been, and will eternally be thine. She had hardly finished this song when she began another folk-song of Southern Sweden. LITEN KARIN (LITTLE KARIN). And little Karin served On the young king's farm ; She shone as a star Among the gentle maidens all. She shone as a star All among the maidens small. And the young king spake To little Kariu thus : "And hear thou, little Karin ! Say, wilt thou be mine ? The gray horse and the golden saddle, Them I will give thee." "The gray horse and the golden saddle, Them I do not suit. Give them to thy young queen ; Let me with honor go." LITTLE KABIN SONG. 425 "And hear tlioti, little Kaiiul Say, wilt thou be mine? My red gold crown, That I will give thee." " Thy red golden crown, That I do not suit. Give that to thy young queen, And let nie with honor go." ''And hear thou, little Kaiin ! Say, wilt thou be mine ? Half my kingdom. That I will give thee." "Half thy kingdom, That I do not suit. Give that to thy young queen, And let me with honor go." "And hear thou, little Karin ! Wilt thou not be mine ? Then I will have thee put Into the spiked barrel." " And wilt thou have me put Into the spiked barrel ? God's little angels, they will see That I am innocent." They put little Karin Into the spiked barrel, And the pages of the king Then rolled it around. Then there came from the heavens Two white doves down ; They took little Karin, And instantly they were three. Then came two black ravens Up there from hell ; They took the young king, And instantly they were three. Little Karin was followed by another song 4:26 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. THE ALUNDA SONG. My boy he lives in Aluiida hamlet, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! Eyes has he blue as heaven's clear sky, Alunda — lunda, Alo. Goes with his scythe light as a wind, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! Little burnt by the sun, but fresh and red on his cheek. Alunda — lunda, Alo. Just he rode his horses to pasture, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! Never saw I colt better tended in stall. Alunda — lunda, Alo. He goes in to dance — modest and shy, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! Looks he at a girl, it is just done on the sly. Alunda — lunda, Alo, Whit-Sunday-eve came he to me, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! " Rosa little, hear what I will say to thee !" Alunda — lunda, Alo, " Rosa, my Rosa, lovest thou me ?" " Oh no !" Alunda, Alundalej ! "Thou will get some one else — meet thy fate so quiet!" Alunda — lunda, Alo. So he came to me on midsummer-eve, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! Went with me in the dance, light, swift, and quick, Alunda — lunda, Alo. Girls, only hush ! but own it I will, Alo — Alunda, Alundalej ! How it was, but a kiss he forced upon me. Alunda — lunda, Alo. " Rosa," he said, " shall I die of grief ?" "Oh no !" Alunda, Alundalej ! " Here thou hast my hand, I take back what I said." Alunda — lunda, Alo. A DARK DEED. 42 T Evidently the singer's repertoire was extensive, and sli« loved both lively and sentimental lays. Suddenly she sang again : High up in the heavens There sit little stars ; The friend I loved I can never get. Oh! oh! oh! oh! He fell into my mind — That I cannot help ; He swore to be to me true Unto the bleak death. Oh! oh! oh! oh! And then he went away from me, And soon I got another ; I got the one I did not want, And Sorrow was his name. Oh! oh! oh! oh! Here the maiden stopped, for she had seen me listening, and her cheeks flushed. Bowing to her, I continued on my way. On a warm afternoon I neared Karlskrona, the chief town in Blekinge ; the wind was high, and the dust flew in thick clouds, as it had not rained for many a day. The drive was dreary, the soil in many places j^oor and stony, and trees scarce. At Jemjo a tomb was pointed out to me as that of the former sheriff, who, on a dark evening, as he was seated in the station-room, was shot from the outside in cold blood ; his assassin escaped in the darkness, and has never been identified, although the authorities made great efforts to discover him. The murder was supposed to have been committed for re- venge. The station-keeper was arrested on suspicion, but soon released, his innocence being established. Approaching the city of Karlskrona, the country became more pleasant, and the highways lively. The people, where there are many small seaports, were not so good as those inland. The prisons were not empty: they talked of thieves, and doors were carefully locked : two or three times I had detected attempts at overcharging; and on 428 TRE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. my way from Ivalmar I saw a revolver lianging by the bed- side of a landlord, and drinking had become a vice. Karls- krona (lat. 56° 10') is a naval station, the most important of Sweden, and has a population of 18,000. The town is built on several islands, the largest of which is Trosso, connected by floating and other bridges, the one communicating with the main-land being of stone. The streets are very broad and regular; the dwelling-houses are large, and there are many squares, and a shaded garden or park, called Ilogland, crowd- ed every afternoon. Along the quays were boats laden with vegetables and fruits from the main- land, and in the early morning with fish. One is soon reminded of the military im- portance of the town from its geographical position : barracks, fortifications, dismantled men-of-war, piles of cannon-balls, etc., give a warlike appearance to the place. Numerous islands protect the approaches to the harbor, which are strongly forti- fied. The Swedish navy is recruited like the arm}'-, by enlistment. Certain estates and hamlets are obliged to furnish a stated number of men for the service ; and these sailors, when on duty, are treated like the soldiers, and while ashore are per- mitted to cultivate their little farms. There are no conscrip- tions, and the regular sailors voluntarily engage themselves. One branch of the service is that to which is assigned the de- fence of the coast lakes. The sailors, while on shore, are kept under strict discipline. They live here in large, clean, and well- ventilated barracks. There is a library, accessible to all. Among the fine estates of the suburbs is Johannishus, fa- mous for its oak-trees. At a short distance the little Nettraby empties into the Baltic. Small steamers ascend the stream several times a day. The shores are lined by meadows, fields, and groves; the sail is sometimes under a perfect canopy of branches overhanging the water. Steam navigation is stopped by a stone bridge, below which, on the river brink, is the an- cient parish church of Nettraby, with its shaded graveyard and old tombs. The grand trees, grassy banks, and beautiful lilies floating on the water added to the beauty of the place, while thu hum of human voices contrasted with the stillness THE SUEBOVNDINGS OF EARLSEEOXA. 429 of tlie scene. Tlie surrounding country is so charming that one might fancy himself driving in a park. About midway between Karlskrona and the seaport of Karlshamn is the cele- brated Spa of Ronneby, situated a distance of about fifteen miles from Karlskrona. The high-road thence traverses a fruit- ful country ; some of the views are exquisitely beautiful, but very few large farms are met. Most of the dwelling-houses are small, and contrast greatly with the buildings found in the northern provinces. 4:30 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. CHAPTER XXXVIII. The Village of Ronneby. — A Celebrated Spa. — Life of the Patients at the Spring. — The Resident Physician. — A Mud-bath. — A Committee of Amusements. — Hotel or Club Fare. — Djupadal. — The Manufacture of Wood Pulp. — A Strange Yearly Custom of Ronneby. — Drunkenness on Saturdays. — A Legend of Two Giants. — A Viking Burial-ground. — Karlshamn. — Funeral Ceremonies. — Family Notices of the Death of Relatives. — A Place where People killed themselves in Viking Days. — Valsjij. — A Delightful Retreat. — Fine Beech-trees. — A Lovely Ramble. — A Family Collation. — Leave Valsjo. Ronneby, in lat. 56° 13', lias a population of about 1600 ; and from its protected situation in a fertile valley and prox- imity to the sea enjoys a mild climate, which in summer is quite warm. This village is celebrated for its mineral springs. The waters are especially beneficial in anaemia, scrofula, chron- ic and intermittent fevers, rheumatism, diseases of the diges- tive and nervous systems, when accompanied by general or local weakness. The mud-baths have been found especially advantageous in rheumatism, and are very much frequented. The charge for each patient of the first class is 10 kronor, which includes contributions for the chaplain, service of water, music, and the poor. The fee to the doctor is optional. Patients of the second class pay 4.50 kronor to the establish- ment and 2 kronor to the doctor, and, when circumstances make it necessary, these charges are lessened to 2.50 kronor and 1 kronor respectively. The village is about three miles from the sea, on the banks of the Ronneby River. Above the bridge navigation is in- terrupted by a fall, while below a small steamer goes as far as the Baltic, so that visitors can enjoy the sea-batliing or boating. The same steamer takes the people to the springs and back every morning. The old church well deserves a visit. The paintings are THE SPA OF RONNEBY. 431 odd, and sometimes excite a smile. The candlesticks, with double-headed eagles, are probably spoils of the Thirty Years' War. The place was bm-ned in 1861 or 1865, and has been com- pletely rebuilt since. It would require a large hotel to accom- modate the travellers who come to the springs. Patients board in the different houses; and in the height of the sea- son, unless lodgings are secured in advance, one may not find accommodations. The cost of living is three to four kronor per day. Every one here retires early, and at five in the morn- ing the town is full of people on their way to the springs. The grounds are pleasant, and the trees furnish a grateful protection from the sun. Around the spring the visitors await patiently their turn to drink the water. A band of six mu- sicians plays lively airs. At eight o'clock the music ceases, the crowds draw together, and tlie pastor of Eonneby offers thanks to the Almighty for his goodness, beseeching him to bless those who have come in search of health. No one thinks of leaving the spring before this act of devotion. This custom prevails at all the Swedish spas. The Swedes are very methodical when they go to a spa in search of health. The resident physician was on the ground from six to eight o'clock, and was surrounded by those who wished to consult him. The doctor had a smile and a pleasant word for every patient, and, however foolish their questions or insignificant their ailments, examined into their cases. He kept a register of the invalids. The usual duration of the treatment was from three to four weeks. In one part of the grounds there was a hospital for the poor, and those who could not afford to pay drank the water and procured advice with- out charge, the doctor receiving a given sum from the parish for this duty. The amounts paid by patients are devoted to the support of the hospital, the improvement of the grounds and buildings, and of the bathing establishment; but the last was still burdened with a debt at the time of my visit. The doctor was also the health officer of the parish or dis- trict, which contained a population of 13,000. He had been in office for seven years, but had lately been promoted to that 432 TUE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. position in the province of Blekinge; liis duty being to trav el, to attend to sanitary precautions, and to hold autopsies. The governor of the province and five leading citizens were charged with the direction. "When a vacancy occurs in the health department the medical college in Stockholm is in- formed of the fact. The name of a doctor whom the local authorities would like to see appointed is called for, and the person chosen is generally accepted. There is a health officer for each province, besides one for each parish or district, all of whom have to attend to the j)Oor gratuitously and watch over the health of the people, and take precautions necessary to avoid the spread of epidemic diseases. For curiosity's sake I took a mud-bath. An old woman was in attendance, who smeared and rubbed ray body with mud, and afterwards with a soft brush ; after being washed I re- ceived a cold douche, producing a delightful sensation ; final- ly I was enveloped in a warm linen wrapper, and over this a thick blanket, and stretched myself on a sofa to rest. The bath caused a temporary prickly sensation in the skin, but the after effect was pleasant. This water is so strongly impreg- nated with iron that it is only used in baths, and is heated to 92'^ Fahrenheit. In this quiet watering-place there was no show, and no rivalry in dress. There was a committee of amusements, composed of three ladies and three gentlemen, who every day chose a spot where coffee was served, and at the foot of the stairway to the springs the name of the place selected was displayed upon a placard. The servants preceded the guests, and when the company had been gathered together innocent games and plays were indulged in. ISTo Swedish punch, spirits, or wine was allowed to be sold on the spot cho- sen, and no gambling was permitted. In the square of the village music was played until 9 p.m., and up to that time the place was crowded. At 9.30 p.m. every- body was in bed. There was very little driving, the people gen- erally preferring to walk. There was a club, where those who chose could obtain their meals — a privilege of which nearly all the guests availed themselves. Three meals were served daily. Tlie fare was simple but excellent, and calculated to produce CHEAP FARE. 433 good hygienic effects. The prices at this restaurant were won- derfullv cheap — the breakfast costing about 35 ore ; the din- ner, consisting of two dishes with soup, or three dishes with- out soup, 1 krona ; and the supper about TO ore. Wines were not generally used. A good room could be procured for 1 krona and 50 ore or 2 kronor a day. The doctor presided at one of the tables — all standing for a moment in a silent and prayerful attitude before taking their seats. The want of ven- tilation in the restaurant, however, was oppressive to one not accustomed to a stLfling atmosphere. "We have already no- ticed the great dislike of the Swedes for fresh air ; they seem to be in constant dread of draughts and rheumatism. The windows were kept closed, and at dinner every opening in the dining-rooms, which communicated with each other, was shut, though the weather was exceedingly warm — the thermometer standing at ^Q° Fahrenheit. If one window remained partly open by mistake, it was immediately closed. The universal trust in the honesty of people is prevalent here. "When one is ready to depart, he goes to the club and pays his bill, and not before : nothing would be easier than to leave without paying. I should think the visitor would be glad to get out of the place, for its life is certainly very monotonous. At Djupadal, the country-seat of Baron "Wrede, I went to see one of the mills which had lately sprung up in Sweden and IS^orway for the manufacture of the wood-pulp used in the production of paper. As this invention unfortunately causes the destruction of millions of young white-pine-trees every year, the lovers of nature, who dread the demolition of forests, regard this new industry with alarm. Taken together with the requisition for timber for mines, the increasing de- mand will eventually destroy the forests, unless a law is made to restrict the cutting down of the trees of less than a certain diameter.* In pursuance of an old custom, every year on the first * The wood used for the manufacture of paper is white pine ; the red pine, on account of its resinous quality, being unavailable. The logs are broken and ground, and the mass is passed between heavy rollers until it forms a perfect pulp, which is then dried and sent to England, where it is converted into paper. VOL. n. " 2 F 434 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. Sunday in July crowds of country-people make their way to Eonneby. A large part sleep on the way at different farms. In the suburbs many groups of maidens, sheltered under the trees, were engaged in removing the dust of travel and comb- ino- their hair, so that they might make their entrance in a be- coming and tidy manner ; hundreds arranged their toilets in this fashion, afterwards putting on their heads silk handker- chiefs which they had carefully protected on the road. More tlian 5000 peasants had arrived, and in the church to which they had flocked there was not even standing-room. It is considered a kind of betrothal-day: men and girls ar- rived with bunches of flowers ; the people came to meet their friends : if one of the men saw among the girls one whom he wished to marry, he proposed by offering to the chosen one a bouquet; if she accepted it, her act signified an aflirmative; but the custom is getting into disuse. Men seen with flowers are afraid of ridicule, and this assembly of marriageable per- sons may be said to be virtually a thing of the past, and is now only the occasion of a merry gathering. During the day long wagons, arched over with branches of birch -trees^ were packed with people bent npon a frolic — a custom which re- minded me of the " straw ride " parties common in the rural districts of the United States. The only impleasant feature in the quiet life of Ronneby is the Saturdays, when the peasants and laborers come to the vil- lage to get their supply of briinvin, and drunkenness is preva- lent. The right of granting licenses for the sale of spirituous liquors is left with the communal councils, which in most cities dispose of the privilege to companies or individuals at a stated sum per year, these again subletting this right to retailers. In some cities, however, companies have been formed consist- ing of some of the most prominent inhabitants, who, wishing to diminish the evils of drunkenness, take the sales of spirits into their own hands, paying for the licenses, and, after get- ting a fair interest — generally six per cent. — turn the surplus into the city treasury, to be used for the benefit of the poor, hospital, or other good object. It is forbidden by law to sell spirits to intoxicated persons or minors. It has been found A LEGEND OF TWO GIANTS. 435 that this system has been the means of diminishing intemper- ance to a considerable degree, as the licenses are limited. In Norway retailers of britnvin are not allowed to sell from 5 o'clock P.M. on Saturday to Monday, at 8 a.m. : the same regu- lation appliesto religious holidays. In Sweden briinvin is made from potatoes and grain, and before coming into the market must be free of fusel-oil. The yearly consumption of briinvin per head is in Sweden about three gallons ; in Norway, one and three quarter gallons. One of the favorite drives or walks is towards Djupadal, above which the Ronne Kiver rushes through a channel about 120 feet long — in one place only 5 to 6 wide ; the walls are smooth, and the water 100 feet deep. Below the mill the river breaks. Lodged between the walls is a huge rock of granite, which, according to tradition, was brought there in the folloAving manner: "In the days of old there were two giants, Ronne and Morrum, who resolved to force a passage to the sea for the water from the upper lakes. The one who first brought the water to the sea was to have his river full of fish ; while in that of the other a human being would be drowned every year. They worked away, each at his own river; but when Ronne reached the rocks at Djupadal tlie work was so hard that he rested and lay down to sleep. In the mean time Morrum got the road open to the sea for his stream. That river is now called Morrum, and it empties into the sea about seven miles from Karlshamn. When he had finished his task he sent a woman to tickle Ronne on his head to awaken him. When Ronne awoke he flew into a rage, and dashed the woman against the rocks; and some hun- dreds of years ago the mark of the place where she struck was pointed out. At the same time he took a huge stone and threw it with such force against the obstruction that it split open, and the water found its way to the sea, the rock remain- ing where it was," for tradition says it is the very one that did the work. Great abundance of salmon are found in the Mor- rum River, while the Ronne has none, and every year there are some people getting drowned in the latter. The province of Blekinge is very rich in antiquities, espe- 2 F 2 436 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. cially old graves or bantastenar. Half-way between Karlskrona and Konneby is Hjortsliaminar, on a small promontory run- niiK»- into the sea. Here are found nearly one hundred me- morial stones and ship - markings : some of these bautastenar are of considerable size. The place was evidently a Viking burial-ground, and the spot a htting resting-place for these heroes of the deep. A little farther west, north of the road, are three fine bautastenar, one of Avhich has a Runic inscrip- tion. These brave men appear always to have chosen for their final resting-places some romantic spot in the neighbor- hood of the sea. On the way to Karlshamn I passed the church of Hoby. Karlshamn has a population of about 6000; it is a thriving town, with ship-yards and factories of various kinds. It has a large square surrounded by a row of shady trees, and in the centre an old-fashioned pump, to which the people come for water. One side is fl.anked by the white wall of the church- yard, and comfortable houses adorn the three other sides. A shaded square lies at the mouth of the river on the bay. There is a park just outside of the town, on a hill called Bellevue, adorned by superb trees, among which are very fine oaks and beeches. Swedish towns are very quiet except on market-days ; as is usual on such occasions, many on their way home feel rather exhilarated, and have entirely lost the demure countenance they had on their arrival. One of the primitive sights which amused me was an an- tiquated dredge in operation, moved by two poor-looking cows, which wearily w^nt round and round. Walking through the streets I came to a house before which fir twigs were scattered. This is an old Norwegian and Swedish custom, observed on the day of burial. Often in small villages or towns these are spread from the house to the church. In the cities, in the room where the dead lies, the mirrors, as well as the front windows of the house, are cov- ered with a white sheet. The announcements of death are published in the newspapers with a black border around them, specimens of which are appended : NOTICES OF DEATHS. 437 That the ever-merciful God, in his supreme and impenetrable wisdom, has called to himself our beloved little daughter, Haxxa Yua Ebba Agnes, who, born on midsummer-night's-eve, 1878, after only a few hours of suffering, calmly and peace- fully expired at Askarod, Tuesday, March 11th, 1879, at 1.37 o'clock a.m., mourned, regretted, and bewailed by parents, a little sister, grandfather, and relations, is only in this way announced to relations and sympathizing friends. Sw. Ps. No. 477, v. 8. Agarine Pehrsson, WiLHELM Pehrsson. AekarUd, March 11th, 1879. That the grand chamberlain, commander of the Order of Vasa, knight of the Order of Nordstjernan, Count Axel Jacob de la Gardie, born April 4th, 1819, died calmly and peacefully at Maltesholm, January 16th, 1879, at 1.50 a.m., deeply mourned by the surviving wife, brothers and sisters, relations and numerous friends, is only announced in this manner. Sw. Ps. No. 91, v. 5. That it has to-day at 9 a.m. pleased God to call away by a calm and peaceable death my dearly-beloved wife, Elna Nilsdotter, after a life of thirty-seven years six months and nineteen days, mourned and regretted by me and five little chil- dren, parents, brothers, and sisters, is only in this way announced to relations and friends. Sw. Ps. Xo. 478, v. 4, Xo. 344, v. 4. Xils Person. Vestra Kattarp, February 2Sth, 1ST9. That the servant-girl Carolina Persson died calmly and peacefully in Klintarp, March 14th, 1879, at an age of fifty-five years nine months and eight days, mourn- ed by sisters and their children, is only in this manner announced to relations and friends. Sw. Ps. 478, v. 1. Huge boulders ia some parts of Blekinge are common. Near Karlshamn there are some of very great size, almost square, with rounded corners. Upon one of these are marks resembling impressions of feet, knees, and fingers which in olden times were supposed to have been made by the giants. At a short distance from the town is the hamlet of Asarum, where there is a spring called the offering spring (offerkillan). On All-hallow-eve the boys and maidens from far and wide come to make their offerings at this place, consisting of small pieces of money, bread-crusts, egg-shells, etc. This old custom was originally designed to gain the favor of the fairies, who were thought to have their homes around this spring, and who would assist them in getting sweethearts. A few miles from Karlshamn there is a beautiful spot called Yalhall, made of gigantic boulders piled one upon another, which form in one part a grotto. It is so steep that its summit 438 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. is accessible only on two sides. This was in heathen times an iittestiipa, that is, a place from which the people, when old and infirm, nsed to throw themselves, it beinj^ considered shameful to die in bed or of old age, as men ought to have died before on the battle-field, from which they were carried by the Valkyries to Odin's hall, YalhalL Of all the religions invent- ed by man, none ever taught a more utter disregard of death, or led to more reckless deeds of bravery, than that of the Northmen. On the way south is the estate of Elleholm, from whose grounds one has a most beautiful view of land and sea ; and near by is the now quiet town of Solvesborg, the ancient resi- dence of the great Viking Solve. Not far from the boundary-line between Blekinge and the province of Skane, at a short distance from Solvesborg, and near the Baltic, is the country-seat of Valsjo, entailed in the family of Count Trolle Wachtmeister, a descendant of one of the old and famous families of Sweden. From the road, as is often the case in this countrj'-, one does not dream that such a beautiful place is hidden from view. Having a letter of In- troduction to the owner, I directed my steps towards the man- sion, which was embosomed in trees. I was received with a courtesy that was the more gratefully appreciated as I w\as a stranger to all. The countess expressed her regret at the ab- sence of her husband. Near the porch stood a post-chaise ready to start ; but my unexpected arrival delayed the departure of the guests, a gentleman and two young ladies, his daughters; a cousin of the host, bearing the same name and title, who was governor of Karlskrona liin (province of Blekinge). During the short time of our acquaintance I was invited to visit them at their estate of Johannishus. The mansion at Valsjo is unpretend- ing and small; indeed, a large building would seem out of place ; but no w^ealth could give the spot its exquisite natural surroundings. It is a gem, and may be ranked as one of the prettiest places on the shores of the Baltic. There are no ex- tended lawns or majestic avenues of trees; but these, in such close proximity to the sea, would spoil the effect of the land- A LOVELY RETREAT BY THE SEA. 439 scape. The woods grow down to the very edge of the water, and when tlie sun is powerful one enjoys the shade of the superb beeches, the long branches of which spread widely from the trunks. One of these trees measured between six and seven feet in diameter. The ground was carpeted with ferns, and large boulders were covered witli a thick, green, velvet- like moss, forming natural cushions several inches deep, add- ing greatly to the beauty of the view. At times one skirts the Baltic, upon the shores of which lay large bare masses of granite, brought down by glaciers. The countess was an ad- mirer of nature, and loved Valsjo for its beautiful scenery, and a great deal more than her more pretentious chateau of Ljung- by. We sat for awhile at a favorite place where the members of the family often stopped to rest, and whence we had an ex- tended view of the coast. Soon after we came to another point, from which the sea, the islands, and the mansion could be seen, and then plunged again into the midst of a grove of splendid beech -trees, and among moss -covered rocks, until we reached a promontory of bare granite, upon which we seat- ed ourselves to enjoy the view of the bay, studded with rocky and barren islands, with a background of dark forest. Two or three fishing -smacks, with sails shining white as the sun struck upon them, were slowly moving, for it was almost calm, and not a ripple disturbed the still waters. The scenery was peculiarly Swedish, and can only be seen on the southern shores of the Baltic. We continued our ramble under beauti- ful trees until we came to groves of white-trunked birches, two of which were centuries old, with crooked limbs and hol- low trunks, covered with thick moss. Meadows and fields of winter rye lay between this grove and another wood of mag- nificent birches, and as we approached the house, which look- ed home-like, the fragrance of roses in full bloom perfumed the air. The cherries in the kitchen-garden were getting ripe as early as July 1st, and their bright red color could be seen. When I thouglit that the time allowed by etiquette for my visit had been exhausted, I rose to bid good-bye to the fami- ly ; but the hostess said, " Be so good as not to go yet ; do not be in a hurry;" and then delicious strawberries and melons 440 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. from the garden were served to ns outside the house, after which the countess insisted that I should remain, and upon sending for my trunk at Solvesborg. My engagements were such that I could not accept, but I could not leave before taking tea with the family. There was no ostentatious dis- play, but a sense of home-like comfort pervaded everything. Tiie daughter of the house, a charming young lady, poured the tea, which wuth the cups had been placed on a separate table, after which she came to join us, while the servant waited npon the guests. When the hour came to say farewell, two members of the family prepared to accompany me back to the village, and all came out to see me safely in their own carriage. I have not forgotten my kind reception at Valsjo, nor the pleasant walk under the old trees. CHATEAUX OF SKANK 441 CHAPTER XXXIX. The Province of Skane, or Scania. — The Garden of the Peninsula of Scandinavia. — Chateaux. — Ancestral Homes. — Mild Climate. — Fine Farms. — Peculiar Con- struction of the Houses. — Character of the Scanians. — Diet of Farmers. — Names given to Females and Males. — TroUe Ljungby. — An Old Drinking-horn and Whistle. — Interesting Legends. — Lake Ifo. — Its Chateaux. — Ahus. — Christian- stad. — The Estate of Eabelof. — A Fruitful Garden. — Great Numbers of Birds. — How Farm-hands are Paid. — Law concerning Master and Servant. — Home Life on a Large Estate. — Estates in the Neighborhood of Christianstad. — Ystad. — Chateaux around Ystad. Skane or Scania is tlie most southern province of Sweden, covering a space of 4300 square miles, and is justly called the Garden of Scandinavia. Large estates under high cultivation, belonging to the old nobility of Sweden, are met in every di- rection, and numerous chateaux, many of which are surround- ed by moats. Often their ancient walls are green with ivy, honeysuckle, or fruit-trees growing in espaliers ; while a gar- den in the French style, resplendent with the bright colors of many flowers, contrasts singularly with the greensward, and the majestic trees or parks which are around them. A view of the sea, sometimes seen afar over the plain, or of a neigh- boring lake, may add to the charm of those lovely homes. Graperies, hot-houses filled with flowers and exotics, are close by, perhaps hidden from sight by shrubbery or trees. The owners of many of these remain all the year round, enjoying the life of country gentlemen, and, possessing fine studs, take great interest in the improvement of stock and horses. Slioot- ing and fishing are the principal pastime.* * Among the game are Tetrao tetrix (black grouse), Ferdiz cinerea (partridge), Gallinula chloropus (moor-hen), Scohpax rusticoJa (woodcock), Gallhiago media (common snipe), GaUinago major (double snipe). Ca/jreolus caprcca (roebuck), Cemts claphus (stag). 412 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. Many of tliese ancestral homes were erected in tlie beginning or middle of the fourteenth century, when SkSne belonged to Denmark. Tlieir structure reminds one of the mode of build- ing of that period, and of the intense religious feeling of the people at that time ; over the gate-way, or under a stone arch, are often seen sculptured representations of the Trinity. The owners bear names known in the annals of history ; within their walls are libraries and archives, which are valuable to the student, and in their halls hang portraits of famous men and women of their days. The climate is comparatively mild, as the province is surrounded by the sea on three sides ; the summers are warm, the thermometer reaching 90° in the shade, and I found the rays of the sun more powerful than in England : the winters may compare with those of the State of New York, but the summers have not its intense heat. In the most southern part, at the latter end of April or begin- ning of May, the horse chestnuts unfold their leaves; and a little later the oaks are full leafed. Apple, pear, plum, mul- berry, walnut, and chestnut trees flourish, while peaches, apri- cots, and grapes do well in espaliers in many places. The landscape of the province has characteristics of its own ; the large forests are missed, except in the northern part, the country is not so well watered, lakes are few, and mostly shal- low. In the south the country is flat, and hamlets with their red-tiled roofs, the spires of churches, and farms embosomed in trees, can be seen from a long distance in the midst of waving fields. The farms vary in size from 20 to 300 acres, and the people raise grain, cattle, and horses. There are several kinds of properties in Sweden : Frdke A farm or estate upon which no direct tax to the State is levied. Fmheskatle . .\ Free from direct tax to the state, but pay an annual tax to Skattcfriilse . . y some other party. Skatte .Pay direct taxes to the State. lirono Crown estates are leased generally for twenty years. Rusthall One or several farms supporting a horseman. Rotehall One or several farms supporting a foot-soldier, or marine. SkSne is celebrated for its fine farms belonging to the peas- antry, many of whom are quite wealthy, and independent in HOUSE-BUILDING IX SKAXE. 443 tlieir politics. The mode of construction is peculiar. The farni-buildings along the roads form a perfect square, often more than 100 feet in front, with a single entrance or gate, through which the carts enter; there are no windows on the side towards the road. The dwelling-houses stand back, and often front towards the fields ; most of these are thatched — a mode of roofing almost unknown in other parts of Sweden. Generally such places have no trees around them. The smaller farms, of less pretensions, occupied by the poor- er people, are so arranged that the buildings form only two sides of a square, presenting an odd appearance. On one side is the dwelling-house, of a white color, often built of bricks plastered over, and sometimes of wood, with lathwork covered with mortar, while on the other is a long structure, gener- ally of wood, painted red, used for the cattle, for stable and cart -house, the storage of wood, and other purposes. The people here have much less capacious buildings than in the far North. On account of the scarcity of timber, they have a pe- culiar kind of house called " korsverkshus ;'' the frame is of wood, filled in with bricks, with the outside plastered. There are others besides, which are built in the following manner: the timber frame is first set up, on which boards are nailed inside and outside to a height of about three feet ; then a carefully prepared mixture of claj' and straw, three-quarters of the former and one quarter of the latter, is rammed in as tightly as possible ; then another height of board is put on, and the same process is repeated till the eaves are reached ; when the boards are taken off, the walls are left to dry, and the outside is further protected by mortar. These buildings are very comfortable, and some are to be found over two cen- turies old. The character of the SkSnians contrasts singularly with that of their northern neighbors of the provinces of Blekinge, Smiiland, Halland, and Bohusliin ; they are quiet, phlegmatic, peaceable, and good-natured. Their farmers live well; in summer, in the height of the harvesting season, they take a raeal composed of milk and soft, dark, sour rye bread and but- ter immediately after rising ; at six or half-past six conies what 44i THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. tliev call breakfast, of about the same food, with or without coffee; at half-past ten or eleven, if they have not taken food with them, they either come home or something is sent. Din- ner is at noon, when they eat either salt pork, fish, or sausages, AN OLD 11O08E IN SKANR, 155S. corned beef, or soup (according to the days), potatoes, and sour milk. At five o'clock they take another meal, consisting of cheese, butter, and bread, with a portion of dricka, a light small-beer; at eight o'clock is supper, consisting invariably of THE CHATEAU OF TBOLLE LJUXGBY. 445 grot, with either sweet or sour milk. The cows and sheep are kejjt on the farms all the year round. In the southern and in some other parts of Sweden many of the names of the women are peculiar, and some of them very prett3\ Among them are Signild, Ilildigunda, Elna, Bengta, Ebba, Ingrid, Kama, Yra, Selma, Erika, Wendela, Thekla, Ulla, Pernilla, Gerda, Bliinda, Gunilla, Helfrida, Both- ild, Signe, Gundela, Hildegard, Hedvig, Yalborg, Disa, Thyra, Ingegerd, Gothild, Astrid, Yalfrida, Yrsa, Helga, Ilillevid, Illi- ana. Magna, Estrid, Elvira, Yendela, Ilildur, Engela, Alfhild, Ilertha, Freja : Syster (sister) is often used as a surname. Among the men are the following names : Axel, Pontus, Klas, Fabian, Thure, Sixten, JMalte, Hjalmar, Henning, Didrik, Sigge (very old, Odin being called Sigge Fridolfson), Fridolf, Sven, Sigurd, Sten, Ivar, Thiodolph, Gunnar, Jesper, Thorgny, Kagnvald, Alf, GOtlie, Yalfrid, Helge, Folke, Frithiof, Gude, Hildmar, Erland, Arvid, Elof, Bengt, Tryggve, Egil, Svante, Elof, Ulf, Bjorn, Styrbjorn : Bror (brother) is also used as a surname. At a short distance from Yalsjo is the small river Sisseback, which there forms the boundary between Blekinge and Scania, which last includes the liins of Christianstad and Malmohus. About nine miles from Solvesborg, and midway between it and the seaport of Ahus, is Trolle Ljungby, the largest estate in Scania, comprising over 40,000 acres; it is entailed in the family of Count Trolle Wachtmeister. The chateau is of brick, surrounded by a moat, and in the midst of a very unpict- uresque, flat country. The oldest part of the present structure was built in 1633, and a later addition in 1787. The mansion has nothing remarkable in its architecture. Among its old family portraits is one of Count "Wacht- meister, who was Minister to England in the time of Crom- well. The collection includes those of several kings of Swe- den, presented by themselves. There are charming paintings, the work of the present countess, and one of the count, hang- ing upon the walls ; the old clocks and spoils of the Thirty Years' War are full of interest. Crossing the moat, one comes to the church, where, as usual. 446 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. the males and females sit apart ; the pew of the countess was on one side, and that of her husband on the other; but in no way different from those occupied by the people of the place. As in most of the old churches, this contained portraits of for- mer pastors and their families, as a sort of memorial. In the crypt below were coffins containing the remains of members of the family who died long ago. Two of these coffins were made of brass or copper, and among the dates I saw that of 1679. In a wooden casket I could see the shrivelled- form of a woman ; a few remnants of lace around the head and some dried flowers were all that remained to mark one of the wealthy and accomplished countesses of Wachtmeister. In many of the old chateaux of Sweden are found curious articles which, in centuries past, when superstition was rife, were held as talismans. The destruction of so many beautiful buildings by fire has taken place where these have been re- moved, that the people, without being actually credulous, keep them for good-luck. Among the objects of curiosity shown me at Trolle Ljungby was a drinking-horn and a whistle, which had the following curious history attached to them : On the road to Christianstad not far from the chateau stands a boul- der thirty feet long, twenty-four feet wide, and twenty feet in height, called Maglestone. Tradition says that at the introduc- tion of Christianity two giants resided here. A church was built in Ahus,* and the giants living in the parish of Jemshog becoming exceedingly angry at this innovation, threw at it two huge stones, called Maglestone and Tippelstone, intending to destroy it; but they failed to hit the mark. It was believed in olden times that the Trolls (witches) dwelt under this stone, and at Christmas-time raised it and supported it by pillars of gold, while they danced and feasted beneath its shadow, the peasants not daring to approach. In the year 1490 Ljungby was in the possession of Lady Sidsela Ulfstand, who, hearing that the Trolls would hold their Christmas revel under Maglestone, asked her servants if any one was willing to try to find out what they did there, * Alms is situated on tlic coast a few miles from Ljungby. THE LEGEND OF MAGLESTONE. 447 promising to giv-e as a reward her best horse and a suit of clothes. A stableman said he would try. Saddling a horse, he rode to Maglestone, and as he approached it he saw it was raised and supported by pillars of gold, resplendent with lights, and the Trolls, among whom was a Christian maid w-ho had been made a prisoner bj them, were merrj. When he was discovered, two men came towards him, one with a horn the other with a whistle, and asked him to drink to the health of the mountain king, and to blow at each end of the whistle. The Christian maid whispered to him : " Don't drink, but ride back home full speed." So he threw the contents behind him, spilling a few drops on the hip of the horse, burning the animal, and with horn and whistle galloped back to Ljungbj, pursued by the Trolls ; but Lady Sidsela ordered the draw- bridge to be raised, for Trolls cannot cross the w^ater or run over ruts and ploughed ground. The next day a deputation of the Trolls came to the castle and asked for the return of the horn and whistle, promising in exchange to make the fam- ily the richest in the laud ; but their entreaties were in vain, and they retired, leaving a curse, saying that her family should become extinct, and that every time the horn was removed Ljungby would be destroyed by lire. The stableman, who had escaped, died ; three times the horn has been removed, and three times the place has been destroyed by fire ; great mis- fortune has attended the descendants of Lady Sidsela Ulf- stand, and none of them are left. So the prophecy of the Trolls has been fulfilled. The drive from Solvesborg to Ljungby gives to the stranger a poor idea of the fertility of the province of SkSne ; the soil is in many places light and sandy, with large boulders near the sea; fields and patches of tobacco are numerous in this section. Tobacco is planted extensively in many parts of Sweden, especially in the southern provinces, and is seen even around Stockholm. That raised around Alius, and near Chris- tianstad, is highly prized by the Swedes, its good quality being attributed to the manuring of the land with sea-weed; and this cultivation has given a high value to that otherwise poor soil. A few miles north of Trolle Ljungby is Lake Ifo, on the 448 THE LAND OF TEE MIDNIGHT SUN. eastern side of which is the farm of Hofg§,rden ; the house is built over the crypt in which the Bishop of Lund, Andreas Suneson, lived while afflicted with leprosy, and is now used as a cellar. Over the entrance is cut in the stone the year 1222. On the shore are several chateaux, among them the castle of Beckaskog, a crown residence on the narrow tract of land which divides this lake from the Opmanna. This was a favorite summer residence of the late king, Charles XY. It was in former times a monastery for the Beruardine monks. Of the former monastery buildings the old church with a tower re- mains. The castle has a tower five stories high. The house is of brick, forming one side of a long square, flanked by low buildings, roofed with tiles, and used as barns and stables. Through the yard a little stream of clear water runs on its way to Lake Ifo. Beckaskog, by right the residence of the colonel of the regiment of Dragoons of SkS,ne, comprises about 1300 acres of land. The father of King Carl leased it from the colonel, and the lease continued under him. The apartments in the mansion had a cosy look, and were notable for taste and simplicity. In this quiet retreat King Carl passed a few weeks in the summer, and often received the farmers, talking and drinking beer witli them. Among the horses I saw two superb Arab stallions. There are three national stud-farms in Sweden — at Stromsholm, near Wester3,s ; at Ottenby, in Oland ; and at Flyinge, in Skane, whence the stallions are sent in summer to different parts of the country for the use of farmers who are desirous to improve their breed of horses. I was surprised to find clouds of mosquitoes, the first I had met in such numbers in the South. From the park I could see Karsholm, a castle finely situated on the opposite shore of Lake Opmanna. This property be- longed to a Danish gentleman, who had made a fortune in Norway, where he also owned quite a beautiful place on the Christiania fjord. From Ljungby the highway continues along the coast, and at almost all times views or glimpses of the sea are obtained ; following that route, one passes numerous country-seats, often hidden from view, and comes now and then to a sea-town. THE TOJVX OF CHRISTIANSTAD. 449 Alms was formerly an important trading-place, and is men- tioned in old writings as early as 1149. For a long distance the spire of the church of Christianstad is seen, as the city lies in the midst of a flat and rich marshy country, on the shores of the Helge. This place has a popula- tion of 9000, and was founded by the Danish king. Christian ly., when SkSne was under Denmark, and was made a forti- fied town ; the fortifications have now been partly pulled down Alius cnuiioii. and replaced by pleasure-grounds. It is the residence of the governor of the province, and the seat of the Superior Court for the provinces of Skilne and Blekinge. A regiment of cavalry is always stationed here, and, as in many small garri- son towns, the feeling of the civilians against the military is intense: such was the case when I visited the place. Duel- ling in the army is unknown in Sweden and Norway ; pub- lic opinion regards this custom as a relic of a barbarous age.. The church is a fine type of Renaissance architecture. The letter C and arms of King Christian are found in many places on the walls. The town is on the bank of the Helge Lake, and at its upper outlet. The lake is shallow, and extensive VOL. II. 2 (} 450 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. engineering works are now employed to drain it and turn it into fruitful land. The river has been deepened, and connects tlie city with the thriving port of Ahus. Many fine estates are also found around Christianstad. About three miles from the city is ES,belof, which covers an area of about 17,000 acres of land. Iron figures on one of the outside walls of the house show the time of its construction (163T), and the letters H. W. and F. M. W. give the initials of its former owners. In ancient times it had two towers, since destroyed by fire; almost everywhere these old country-seats have been partly burned at one time or another. Four avenues lined with trees lead from the house in different directions. The host received me with great kindness. He was of Scotch descent, and spoke English remarkably well, also Ger- man and French. He had travelled all over Europe, and in Persia, Egypt, and Algeria. The baroness spoke French ad- mirably.* I was surprised to see on the table of the parlor a number of Ilar]per''s Magazine. When I expressed my aston- ishment, my host took occasion to bestow great praise on that publication, which he said had maintained for years the same high standard of popular and interesting matter. I was glad to hear the encomiums awarded to my friends, and to see their periodical so well appreciated in this distant region. The mansion was simply furnished ; no old portraits or paintings adorned its walls, but everywhere was an air of com- fort. The front of the house overlooked a large garden pro- tected by a hedge, and redolent with flowers, a kitchen-garden, a small pond, numerous fruit-trees, a pavilion, while trees and shrubbery were abundant. On one side the carriage-way was an open gravelled space, near the ridge of which stood a large chestnut-tree with a seat. Through the trees we had a view of the lake ; behind a little lawn there was a thick grove hid- ing a large barn, while other spacious buildings were close at hand. Several huge bee-hive-like piles of fire-wood, chiefly birch, cut or sawed, were drying ; for wood is generally used * In Sweden a titled woman marrying an untitled gentleman keeps her title added to the name of her husband. TEE ESTATE OF BABELOF. 451 in well-regulated houses only when it has been cut two or three years, as it burns better and makes a wanner lire. The windows of my room overlooked the garden, and at night I heard at times the horn of the watchman, w^hose duty it was to walk around the farm to guard it against tire. This custom is prevalent on all large estates in Sweden. The watchman is required to be on duty until 4 a.m., and then he sleeps until 1 P.M., and works afterwards. But even before the specified hour, at that time of the year, as the twilight fell, a boy ap- peared in the garden, making a loud noise with a wooden rat- tle, and this was followed now and then by the firing of guns. This is done to frighten the birds, which were exceedingly numerous. The bullfinch, thrush, sparrow, oriole, several va- rieties of warblers, and many other birds peopled the wood outside of the garden, and made sad havoc with the cherries. The cooing of the wild-pigeon was also heard. This estate is charged with the support of 28 soldiers, each of whom has a cottage with four acres, which must be plough- ed by the owner of the estate. Certain farms are rented upon the agreement by the tenant that he will work for a given number of days during each year on the property. Peat is supplied to all the laborers, this fuel being extensively used, for forests are scarce in the South. There are about 150 people employed by the year ; during the busy season 400 or 500 extra hands are hired. The farm hands have a right to about half a gallon of sweet milk daily, together with an an- nual portion of thirty-two bushels of rye and barley, divided into equal parts; five more of potatoes; an allowance of ten kroner for meat and fish, and a certain amount of tobacco ; besides, three measures of flax-seed, and land enough to plant it, so that each man can produce the material for his own linen. In summer each hand has beer, and the supply of fuel is sufficient for his use the whole year. The men are lodged free, and the unmarried man can save 100 kronor a year out of the 150 he receives. Besides the great number of servants employed (and every farm or estate seems to have a greater number than is required), the children of the farm hands, and the sick and the poor, are under careful supervision. 2 G 2 4:52 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. The laws concerning masters and servants are strict in Swe- den. After engaging a servant, the employer gives a small amount of money — generally about three kronor — to seal the bargain ; when this sum has been accepted, it cannot be re- turned, the contract thereby becoming irrevocable on either side. After engaging a servant, the employer cannot send him or her away until the time of the contract expires ; if not satisfied, the master must endure, unless he can prove before a court of justice that the man he has engaged refuses to work. If sent away before the stipulated time, the servant can recov- er the full amount agreed upon, together with the equivalent of his board and lodging. In the same manner, should the servant run away, he is liable to a very heavy fine, and is com- pelled to return. This precision has a happy effect in secur- ing good service for the employer, and kind treatment towards the employed. The home life of the owners on many of these large estates is still primitive, in many respects resembling the mode of liv- ing in mediseval times. The stranger is impressed by the air of comfort perceptible among them. The landliolders make at home almost everything they require. Industrious habits characterize every one, from the master and mistress of the house to the humblest servant. The larger the farm or es- tate, the more the mistress has to superintend in the house- hold and its economy, and tliese duties are never regarded as a derogation from her dignity. f Near the mansion of Rabelof is the Economy House (name given to a building w-here home industries are carried on), a granite structure, in one of the rooms of which there are three looms. An experienced weaver, a woman, is engaged by the year to superintend the work. As I entered she was occu- pied in weaving a beautiful large linen table-cloth, while one of her assistants was making a linen cover for a carpet, and a third was busj'- on coarse sheeting for the beds of the working hands. The flax and hemp w^ere raised on the farm. There were also people employed in spinning wool, and weaving cloth and carpets— all the wool used in these fabrics being the prod- uct of the farm. The head woman-servant was paid 200 kro- I w THE SUBURBS OF CHRISTIAXSTAD. 453 nor a year ; the other females receiving from 50 to GO kronor each. There is also a brewer}^, wliere a woman made the beer, and, when not so engaged, employed herself in weaving. The hops were grown on the estate. A bakery also was sup- plied with home-made flour. The amount of winter provision necessary for the household had to be carefully attended to, in order not to run short ; but the proceeds from the sale of the produce of the kitchen-garden and orchards were large, and furnished the pin-money for the wife, as is the case on many of the estates. A short distance north-west from Christianstad is situated the estate of Araslof, belonging to Count Hamilton. It is one of the largest in Sk^ne, and is divided into a great number of fertile and well- cultivated farms. About fourteen miles farther north is the estate of Wanas, with a fine old chateau dating from the year 1566. It is surrounded by gardens and woods. Among the remarkable paintings which it contains is Ecce Homo, by Guido Reni. The sandy and monotonous region whicli surrounds Alius gives place a few miles south to a landscape which in many re- spects can well compare with the most favored parts of Skane. Maltesholm is one of the finest estates entailed in the De la Gardie family, whose armorial shields are seen in many churches and chateaux belonging to that name before the "reduction." The chateau dates only from about 1700. It is approached across a valley by a road 4650 feet long, often 24 above the ground, and in some places 35 feet wide. Farther south and near the sea is the estate and chateau of Widtskofle, with its several towers^ — a fine old structure, surrounded by a moat, dating from 1533. Above the gate-way is a represen- tation of the Trinity ; it is surrounded by grounds, parks, and gardens, said to be among the finest in Skane. South-west of Widtskofle lies the princely castle of Kristinehof, entailed in the family of Count Piper. Journeying down the coast, one comes to the port of Cim- brishamn, with a population of about 1800 inhabitants. At a short distance is the fishing -village of Kivik, wliere is seen the graves of the bronze age which I have described in Vol. I. 45i THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN Near it is the parish of Jerrestad, one of the few phices of Skane where the ancient costume is still in use among the ^-'^^^^ CO'STUMr or JEHUnTM). peasants. The men wear light yellow leather breeches, and the women woollen outside garments of variegated colors, with white shirts over the petticoats. A GBAIX-EXPOliTING TOWN. 455 A few miles south-west, near the liigh-road, is the estate of Gliuiiiunge, with a castle, oue of the two left in Sweden in its original state, showing the mode of building fortified houses during mediaeval times, and therefore one of the most remark- able, perhaps, in the country. It was built during the four- teenth century. BAPTISMAL FONT OF STONE IN TKYDE OniTKOH, 8KANE. Thirty miles south-west of Cirabrishamn is the town of Ystad (lat. 55° 25'), with a population of nearly 7000. It has a commodious harbor, and exports much grain, especially to Eng- land. There is a charming walk along the beach, a public gar- den, and a fine cemetery ; there are two churches, one dating from about 1200. The chalk cliffs of Denmark (isle of Moen) are seen, looking very white in the dazzling sun. From Ystad \:o have now entered Malmo liin, the most thickly settled and i56 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. fertile part of Sk^ne, containing a population of 181 to the square mile. On its seaboard are several thriving corn-export- ing towns. Tosterup is eight miles from Ystad, with a castle and towers, from which a magnificent view is had over the surrounding plain and the Baltic. Among the chateaux in the neighbor- hood are Charlottenlund, with pleasure-park and gardens, from which there is an extensive view of the sea ; Marvinsholm, built in 1644-48, with a moat spanned by a stone bridge ; and Krageholm, the property of Count Piper, with its trees clipped to form rooms and passages. A few miles farther north an- other branch of the same family own the estates of Snoge- holin and Sofdeborg, the latter with a chateau of the seven- teenth century, decorated and furnished in the Netherland style of the sixteenth century : here are fine historical por- traits, among them those of the Konigsmark family, including that of the fair Aurora ; the knight's hall was once of great magnificence, ornamented with copper sheets, which, when the wind struck them, made an reolian music. Farther north is Of vedskloster, with a very fine chateau and a grand forest, in which roam a peculiar breed of milk-white deer, of which there are only two or three herds in Sweden. In a more westerly direction from Ystad is Svaneholm, on an island in the beautiful Svanesjo, besides a number of other estates. From the roads, winding their tortuous ways along the shores of southern and western Scania, the eye, wandering across the water, sees the coast of Denmark, a kingdom in- habited by a race worthy of their ancestors of old. Looking at that land, the memory of the daring and mighty deeds of their forefathers came back vividly to my mind ; the brilliant record of their great past, with the grand results which followed the outgrowth of their tremendous energy, as seen in the great empires which have risen and inherited their blood, appeared in a panorama of majestic outlines. History unfolded itself. Uncovering my head reverently, I exclaimed, Land of the Danes ! Scandinavian country ! ancient home of Vikings ! I salute thee ! and equally with thy twin sisters, Sweden and Norway, I wish thee happiness and prosperity ! SKAXOE AND FALSTEliBO, 457 CHAPTER XL. A flat, low Coast. — Skanor and Falsterbo. — Their Antiquity. — Malmo. — City Hall of Malmo. — Guilds in Northern Europe. — Malmo Castle. — Landskrona. — The Island of Hven. — Birthplace of Tycho Brahe. — Helsingborg. — A Beautiful Neighborhood. — Castles, Chateaux. — The Coal-mines of Hogauiis. — The Univer- sity Town of Lund. — Cathedral of St. Lars. — Estates around Lund. — Ortofta. — Skarhult. — Loberod. — Trolleniis. — Trolleholm. — The Promontory of KuUen. — A Fine View. — Leaving Scandinavia. — Farewell. Fkom the dangerous Sandhammar reef, some seventeen miles east of Ystad, the low coast of Skane runs east and west for about seventy miles. At the fishing-village of Sinvgge (lat. 55° 20'), the most southerly point of Sweden is reached. Here the sun rises on June 23d at 3.18 a.m., and sets at 8.46 P.M. ; on September 23d it rises at 5.49 a.m., and sets at 5.55 P.M. ; while on the shortest day, December 23d, it rises at 8.31 a.m., and sets at 3.27 p.m. What a contrast be- tween this southern shore of the peninsula and the northern ! Here fruitful fields, orchards, and hamlets embosomed in trees ; there a stern, dark, rocky coast, terminating in the weird ISTorth Cape. Trelleborg (lat. 55° 22') is the most southerly town of Sweden, with a population of 2100. In the midst of two clumps of trees are seen two spires: these belong to the churches of the old towns of Skanor and Falsterbo, once rich and powerful, but now insignificant villages ; the first having a population of 750, and the second, of 300, They have a com- mon cemetery, burgomaster, and poor-house. There is neither druggist nor doctor, and sometimes a year or two passes with- out a death. For more than a generation not a person has been imprisoned even for the most trivial offence. The people are temperate; they do not allow a liquor-shop in their midst. A more primitive community can hardly be found ; but, like the rest of their countrj-men, they indulge in innocent recreations on Sunday afternoons. Both places flourished in the begin- 458 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. iiing of the Christian era, and their fairs once were among the most popuhir in Scandinavia. Hollanders and merchants of the Ilanseatic League owned large establishments. The her- ring-fisheries were very extensive, the slioals said to be often so thick that the boats could hardly row among them ; but the fish have disappeared. Their ports were deep and safe ; Falsterbo, especially, had a magnificent harbor, but in 1G31 a furious tempest swept the sand from the downs and shores, and filled it, covering, besides, the fertile lands around : dan- gerous reefs now line the coast. /"'/:t^V»; -ur. CUUKOU. It is the largest city in Southern Sweden, and is rising in im- portance yearly by the extension of its commerce and man- 460 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. ufactures. It contains a cotton-mill, a machine shop, a glove factory, and other industrial establishments. It was known in 1259 under the name of Malmenhauge ; its fortifications were finished in 1431. The Church of St. Peter, founded in 1319, and rebuilt in 1847-53, is worth a visit, its transepts being ex- tremely beautiful and light in form. It is in pure pointed- arch style, and was founded in 1319 : in this church the Lu- theran confession was first promulgated. The ESdhus (City Hall) was built in 1546, and renovated in 1867-69, in Re- naissance style. It is remarkable not only for its handsome exterior but for its magnificent festival hall, the so-called Knutshall (Canute's Hall), in which formerly the St. Knut Guild held its meetings : this is 100 feet long, 19 wide, and 12 high. The St. Knut Guild was a powerful society, every member of which was equal to six witnesses before a court of justice. These guilds were exceedingly popular in North- ern Euroj)e, and were numerous. Wisby, as has already been said, possessed many of them, each under a patron saint ; but religion comprised a very small part of the system under which they were established, conviviality being apparently the chief object of their members. The beautiful drinking-cups of the order, preserved in Malmo, furnish evidence on this point. The ancient guild of St. Knut was founded in 1100, and the branch in Malmo dates from about 1360. The regu- lations of the brotherhood bound its members to help one an- other. "When a brother was to appear before the king, a court of justice, or a bishop, twelve of his fellows accompanied him, armed to the teeth, and did not leave him until he was safe. If one of their number killed a man, all were bound to aid him in his flight, providing him with a horse or other means of escape ; for in those days the taking of human life for re- venge was not considered disgraceful, and in nothing, perhaps, has greater progress been made than in the protection of life. Kings, princes, and princesses who loved the pleasure of the table and convivial life joined these fraternities. Malmo Castle, dating from 1537, serves at present as bar- racks for the garrison of the town, and as a prison. In the castle Count Bothwell, the third husband of Mary Stuart, was HELSINGBOBG. 4G1 kept a prisoner. Towards the end of the sixteenth century the herring-fisher}', once a source of great profit, fell off. After the terrible plague which swept over the country Malmo rap- idly dwindled. At the end of the seventeenth century the town numbered only 2000 inhabitants, but it is again rising fast into prosperity. The surroundings of Malmo are flat and bare of trees, but, like the greater part of Southern Skane, very fertile. There are no large estates in its immediate neighborhood, and the farms, as a general rule, are small. But a few miles south-east are a number of estates, among them Torup, a chateau surrounded by a moat, with its pinnacled gables, and solid round and octag- onal watch-towers, which have stood the blasts of over three centuries ; it lies in a meadow encompassed by beech w^oods. Borringekloster, Skabersjo, and many others are found in that vicinity. N^orth of Malmo is the town of Landskrona, founded in 1413 by King Erik XIII., with a population of nearly 9000 inhabitants. The harbor is good ; the manufacture of beet- sugar is carried on here. The fort, built in 1513, surrounded by a moat, still remains, and is now used as a prison for crimi- nals under long sentence. These are constantly employed, and a careful register of their conduct is kept. A few miles north of the city, in the sound, is the island of Hven, where the re- nowned astronomer Tycho Brahe lived ; but few traces remain of his princely castle, Uranienborg, and observatory of Stelle- borg. About fourteen miles north-east of Landskrona lies the estate of Knutstorp, remarkable as the birthplace of Tycho Brahe. Continuing the sail, one comes to Helsingborg, with a pop- ulation of 9000, in the narrowest part of the Oresund, which here has a width of about three miles. The harbor is fine, and the town flourishing. In olden times, like other cities of the southern peninsula, it was an important trading mart, but has gradually deteriorated. The old town was situated where the tower of Kilrnan still stands ; but, after a great fire in 1425, it was rebuilt on the present site. Three miles south- east of Helsingborg, in an exceedingly pretty neighborhood. 462 THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. is the mineral spring of Ramlosa. The spring issues from a sandstone rock about eighteen feet high, and is efficacious in the cure of many diseases. The place has a beautiful park, and offers from several points very fine views. About four miles from the city is the new palace of So- fiero, tlie summer residence of the present queen. The view over the sound is magnificent. About two miles beyond one comes to the fine estate of Kulla-Gunnarstorp, belonging to Baron Platen, with an old castle erected in 15G2, and a new one which is one of the most valuable and beautiful of Swe- den. Farther on is the estate of Wrams Gunnarstorp, with con- siderable forest, and surrounded by a beautiful country. Fol- lowing the coast northward, about fifteen miles from Ilelsing- borg are the coal-mines of lloganiis, which were worked as ear- ly as 1650, and which now have a depth of 320 feet. The coal in quality is inferior to the English. The mine also yields fire-clays, from which bricks and stoneware are manufactured : the works form quite a little town. Here one sees the same thoughtful care, met everywhere in Sweden, of the employers towards their workingmen. Everything is done to elevate them; their houses are clean and healthy ; a public garden has been made for their benefit, and the miners and their families are contented and happy ; schools for them arc not forgotten, and there is also a church. Ten miles north-east of Malrao, on the line of railway to Stockholm, is the city of Lund, formerly called Lunden,"the grove," and Londinum Gothorum — the only inland city of Sk&ne except Christianstad: this place is said to have had 200,000 inhabitants. There is an old saying that when Christ was born Skanor and Lund were already in harvest, meaning that they were already prosperous. About the year 900 it is mentioned as rich and fortified. It is situated in a fertile plain, on the little river Hoje&, which formerly was naviga- ble for large vessels; during Yiking times their fleets sailed up to the town. In lO-iS it received its first bishop, Ilenrik, under whom the cathedral was commenced; in 1107 it be- came the seat of the fii'st archbishop, Asker, who was pri- mate of the North. Lund was then called Metropolis Dcmup, TUE UNIVEBSITY TOWN OF LUND. 463 and was the place of residence and coronation of many kings. After tlie mediieval age it began to decline rapidly, so that when acquired by the Swedes, in 1G52, it was little more than a village. It soon after began to rise again ; in 166S a uni- versity was inaugurated there, and at present the city is con- stantly advancing. Here are the principal hospitals of Skane, the numerous university buildings, many lower schools, and an institute for the deaf and dumb. This old university town has now a population of nearly 12,000, The chief building of interest is the Cathedral of St. Lars, 271 feet long and 72 high, in the shape of a cross, of jDure round-arched style, with two towers formerly surmounted by high spires ; it was in- augurated in 1145. The inner perspective of the church is very fine, which is probably caused by its being wider at the west end than at the east ; besides which, the floor impercep- tibly rises from the sides towards the middle about a foot and a half. The chancel is the most beautiful and majestic part of the church, with its open rows of pillars and its pin- nacles symbolizing the thorn -crown of Christ. The inner vault of the structure rests on 18 pillars, in two rows. The pulpit and altar ornaments are of the media3val ago, and are quite valuable. Perhaps more remarkable than the church itself is the crypt, extending under the entire chancel, with a length of 126 feet, 36 in width and 14 in height. It is light- ed by 10 windows, and is supported by 24 pillars ; it is one of the largest crypts in the world. The university has a fine library, and an historical museum of Northern antiquities. The country around Lund is rich in fine estates with old chateaux. On the line of the railroad, about six miles distant, is the castle of Ortofta, on the bank of the Bra Eiver. It was built at the beginning of the sixteenth century, and in public documents the estate is mentioned as early as 1381. Many historical memories are connected with it. Ortofta was the only property in Skilne whose owner had birkeriitt, i. e., full jurisdiction over his dependents and subordinates, and the right to all fines ; he was free from taxes, but instead had to main- tain a court-house and a place of execution : this right was in force as late as the seventeenth century. The estate belongs 4Gi THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. to Count Diicker. Around Ortofta are found several grave- monnds, and near it is the estate of Hviderui3, with a castle built in the sixteenth century : this has for nearly 250 years belonged to the baronial family of Ramel. South-east of Lund, between Lund and Ystad, is Dalby Church, formerly a mon- astery ; under the tower is a crypt like that of Lund ; in the church lies buried the Danish king, Harold Heine, who died in 1080. Skarhult is a good specimen of the architecture of the four- teenth century, with lofty towers, pitched roofs, and peculiar chimneys ; above the archway of the main court, and between two sculptured coats of arms, is the date (1562) when it was completed. Not far from Skarhult is the large estate of Lob- erod, with a castle, from which in clear weather one can see across the Skane plain and the Sound to Copenhagen. The estate is entailed in the De la Gardie family, which is of THE SHORES OF THE lilXGSJO. 465 French extraction, and whose history is full of romance. Few places in the country contain more objects of historical inter- est than Loberod ; they are chiefly trophies of the Thirty Years' War, including cabinets filled M'ith treasure, old furniture, and paintings of the Dutch and Flemish schools. Trolleniis, with a large mansion erected in 1559 by Tage Tott, was formerly called Nas, and has always belonged to the families of Tott and Trolle, in which latter it is now en- tailed. It has very fine parks and gardens, and traces of the former fortifications are still seen. Charles XL had his head- quarters here in April, 1677. Trolleholm, about twenty miles north of Lund, is a large estate, comprising nearly 22,000 acres. The castle has four towers, and is surrounded by a moat with two stone bridges ; the garden is large and fine. Near and on the shores of the pretty Ringsjo are situated many fine estates with old chateaux : among these are Bos- jokloster, Fulltofta, and Ousbyholm. The first is very old, and formerly was a nunnery : on this estate is found one of the largest trees in Sweden, an oak measuring forty feet in circumference near the root. One of the most picturesque places in Skane is the prom- ontory of Kullen, extending into the Oresund, and the most north-western point of the province. Its extremity was for- merly an island, separated from the main-land by a creek. The promontory is composed of several steep granite hills, rising like an amphitheatre, the highest being more than 600 feet above the sea : on this point is a light-house. At the base of the mountains on the north side near the sea is the Trollhalet (the witch-hole), a grotto about 100 feet deep. To one who has been wandering through level and monotonous plains, and along the flat shores of Skane, great, indeed, is the change to this promontory. From the highest point of Kullen the scenery is charming and the view extensive, including the shores of Skeldervik, with its fishing hamlets and farms, green hills clad with beech and oak, and fertile meadows — the Cattegat, and beyond the Oresund, whose shores are lost in the distance— the coast of Jutland, with Kroneborg and Ilelsingor. Among tlie castles in its neighborhood are Krap- VOL. II. 2 H 4GG THE LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. perup, with its towers and ramparts, park and garden ; Vegc- holm, built in 1530 on the island of that name, whose fortifi- cations have disappeared. As I stood upon the heights of Kullen, how beautiful was the scene ! Not a ripple disturbed the sea ; the sun, gorgeous- ly red, was sinking slowly below the horizon. IIow calm was that summer evening on the Cattegat, where in olden times the Yiking fleets sailed on their voyages for conquest and plunder ! As night advanced, the outlines of the coast became dimmer, and at last were lost in darkness, but with here and there a bright light to guide the mariner. Though I have left much unsaid,! must close these volumes. Farewell, Scandinavia — Land of the Midnight Sun ! I have wandered over thy country from north to south ; I hav^e seen thy gay cities and quiet villages, tliy fruitful farms, thy hum- ble cottages ; I have sailed upon thy fjords and lakes ; I have wended my way in the midst of thy beautiful valleys and dales; I have clambered over thy majestic mountains; I have gazed with awe and wonder upon thy noble glaciers; I have stood upon thy grand and rugged coasts and watched the storm- tossed sea as it dashed with fury upon thy shores. Never shall I forget the kindness and hospitality of thy people. The lofty and the lowly — king and peasant — have united to welcome the stranger who landed among them. The many happy days spent among thy good and noble people will never be forgotten. The memory of the dear friends who have been so kind to me will always be cherished. INDEX A AK ]". AaklsBiler i., iGl ; ii. Aardal fjord i. Action of ice i. Adelsuiia ii. Administration of justice i. Aduamuorlci-kortje fall i. Agricultural schools i., 156, 1G6; ii. Ahus ii. Aitijarvi i. Aland ii. Almindingeu maidens i. Alten fjord i Alien River i., 89; ii. Alundu song ii. Alvastra ii. Amtmand (governor) i., 199 Augermauiand i. Ants i. Appearance of the Lapps i., 130; ii. AraslOf ii. Arboga ii. Arctic atmosphere i. Arctic birds i. Arctic seasons i. Arctic summer climate i. Arctic sun i. Arctic vegetatiou...i., 103, 133, 13S, 148, 149 ii.,160, Areskntan i Arkavaara ii Art, works of. ii., SOS, 313, 315, 310 Arvidsjaur ii. Asiedesret (homestead right) ii. Asarum ii. Asbjiirnsen, Prof. i. Ascent of North Cape i. Asen ii. Aspo ii., 31S, Assebagli ii- Atvidaberg ii Anrland fjord i. Aurora borealis i., 1-lS ; ii., 38, Avalanches i.,235; ii. Awkward adventures i., 65 ; ii. Batistuga ii., 207 Ball of the trees ii., 422, 423 Barfro ii., 278 Baron von Diiben i., 141 Bath-house ii., 206 Beckaskog. ii., 443 Bengt ii., 333, 334 Berge i., 429 Bergen i., 203 Bersbo copper-mines ii., 395-393 Betrothals ii., 418, 419 Bird wanderer i., 106 Birds in the Arctic region i., 92 Birger jarl ii., 333, 334 Birger Persson ii., 334, 335 Bii ka ii., 312 Birki ii., 194 Birth of a child i., 405 BjOlstad ii., 286 BjoikO ii., 312 Bjorn Vand sjeter i., 292 Blekiiige ii., 415 Blekinge, character of ii., 404 Boats and boatmen i.,Tl, 86 Bodo i.,10S Bohuslan ii., 367 Bo Jonsson ii., 340-347 Bo Jonsson, his great wealth ii., 340-343 Bolkesjo i., 421 Bo-miirken i., 314 Bonde etiquette i., 400; ii., 29 Boreu Lake ii., 333 Borgholm ii., 409, 410 Borguud, church of i., 396 BOrstorp ii-, 354, 355 Bosekop i., 93 Briinvin frolic i., 425 Bread, kinds of. i., 6, 39, 394, 395 Bridal party i., 264 Brums Olof Larsou ii., 221 Bronze age graves i., 346-35S Buer-brseen glacier i., 278 Bundling i.,430; ii., 26, 66 Burial customs ii., 436 BygdiuLake ii.,305 2 II 2 468 INDEX. Camping out i., 134, 136 Canute "•. 3l>3, 411 Card parties i'-. 47 Carl XV i., 29, 35 Cariiivovous cattle i., 101 Cariole '-1^2 Castle of Upsala i. 32T Cathedral at Upsala i., 319, 322 Certificates of character ii., 417 Characteristics of the Lapps. . . .ii., 91, 93, 94, 169, 171 Chateaux, old ii., 30S Cheese, kiuds of. i-, 395, 396 Children as laborers ii., 374 Children in Lapland ii., 95 Chorus singing i., 321, 32S Christiauia i.,297; ii., 3 Christiansand i., 414 Christianstad ii., 449 Christmas in Scandinavia ii., 4-9 Church relics ii., 356-362 Cimbrishamn ii., 453 Clannishness ii., 262 Climate of Lofoden ii., 133 Climate of Scandinavia i.ii., 135 Cod-flshery ii., 117, 119, 129, 146 Cod-liver oil manufactory ii.,130 Coins, ancient i. , 308 Commuuicaiious i.,439 Copper-mines i.,95; ii., 218 Costumes i., 384, 400,411, 41 5, 41 8, 420; ii., 52, 232, 247, 257, 327, 454 Cow-houses i.,S0; ii., 56 Cromlechs i., 335, 342 Dat.abne ii., 21 6 Dalby church ii. , 464 Dalecarlia ii., 216 Dalecarlian fair ii., 232 Dalecarliau friendship ii., 249, 252 Dalecarlian wedding ii., 235 Dalecarliaua ii., 216, 242 Dance of the elves ii., 420^22 Darlcuess of the uights i., 433 Deaths, aunonncemeut of. ii., 437 Devastating fires i.,143 Difficulties of sledge-riding.. ii., 74, 75, 106, 108, 109, 180 Diseases i.,440 Diseases in Lapland ii., 170 Djiipadal ii., 433 Doctors in Scandinavia , ,ii., 113, 432 Dovre fjeld i., 194 Dr. Dunk i.,425 Drinking-horns and tankards ii., 24 Driving reindeer ii., 73 Drottningholm ii., 310 .Dwarfs ii.^ 421, 422 Easter in Lapland ii., 00 Economy Uouse ii., 452 Ediicatiou, C(mipulsory ii., 380 Eld fjord i., 271-272 El rdal ii., 259 Elg-sjo ii.,263 Eisa Karolina ii., 64 Elves ii., 421, 422 Eugelbrsli t. ii., 321-323 Epitaphs i., 172, ISO Erik, son of Gustaf Wasa ii., 317 Eriksberg ii., 32S Eskilstuna ii., 319 Evil to him who evil thinks., .ii., 205, 206. 207, 208, 209, 210, 211 Explanation of Midui.ght Sun i., 61-63 Extortion IL, 263, 42T Faarero i., 239 Fiibodar ii., 254 Fiemund-sja ii., 264 Fagerli i., 119 Fairs i., 384 ; ii., Ill, 2.^2 Falsterbo ii., 458 Falun ii., 218 Family names i., 391 Family scene i., 398 Farewell ii., 466 Farm dwellings i., 60, 154 ; ii., 223 Farmers' food . . . .' i., 394-396 ; ii., 443, 444 Farms in Norway i., S92 Farms in Sweden i., 392 Fatigue of reindeer ii., 107 Feeding birds, Christmas ii., G Feeding cattle ii., 89 Female drivers i., 55, 64, 184 ; ii., 51, 63 Filipstad ii., 3,')2 Fiiikirken ii., 155 Finmarken ii., 144 Finn winter dress ii,, 52 Finspong ii., 374 Fir fiirests ii., 185 Fish pudding i., 159 Fishermen's huts i., 81, 100; ii.,119 Fishing boats ii., 122, 127 Fishing Lapps ii., 175 Fishing season ii., 121 Pjserland i., 235 Fjords i., 219, 262 Fleas i., 113 Flint implements i., 334, 342 Folgefonn glacier i., 277 Folkhogskolor ii., 382 Folkskolor ii., 381-384, 388 Folk - songs, Swedish and Norwegian, i., 324, 325, 328, 329 ; ii., 412, 423, 427 Folkunga family ii., 333 Forest Lapps ii., 174 INDEX. 469 Freedom of the press i., 439 Fri'.so i., ISO Fniholmeu ii., 153 I'''uiieral customs L, 173, 407; ii., 1S6 Galdbbne defile i., 3S9 Giildhii ii., 303 Game i., 1S3 ; ii., 441 Gamleby ii., 400 Gamme ii., lC'2-164, 172 Garde churcli i., 315 Gardmo ii., 295 Garues farm i., 1S7 Geological changes i., 220, 31G Geology of Scaudiuavia i., 211 Gjendiu Luke ii., 305 Gjusjavre ii., 190 Glacier of Suliielma i., 123, 132 Glaciers !., 227, 238, 241 Glimmiiige ii.,455 Gold rings, meauiug of. ii., 246 GiJta caual ii., 330 Giiteborg i., 5 Gotland i., 303 Governmeut i., 435-433 Graduation at Upsala i., 320, 324 Grave-yards i., ISl, 199 Gravedal i., 266 Graves, prehistoric L, 305, 334-350, 363 Grebbestad ii., 369 Grenna ii., 350 Greta and her daughters ii., 52 Gripsholm ii., 313 Grist mills i., 120 Grod i . , 394 Giidbrandsdal ii., 13, 267 Giidvangen i., 257 Gulf of Bothnia i., 42 Gulf-stream, influence of ii., 135 Guuuarstorp ii., 462 Haakesstati ii., 295 Habits of the Lapps i., 130 ; ii., 182 Hnfverud ii., 353 Hagby church ii., 405, 406 Hagestet ii., 307 Hallaud ii., 307 Hailing dance i., 406 Halmstad ii., 367, 30S Haraar ii., 265 Hammerfest i-, 9T ; ii., 152 Hande ii., 2S1 Hans Bredevaugen ii., 26, 32 Haparanda i., 48 ; ii., 50 Haparanda school ii., 379 Harald Haarfager ii., 15 Hiirdanger fjord i., 202 Harmauger i., 171 Harness for reindeer ii., 72 Hfissja i., 160 Haugeu i., 404 Haukelid sseter i., 433 Havredal i., 433 Head-dress of Laplanders ii., 71, 91 Hedal valley ii., 2S5, 291 Heftye, Consul i., 299 Height of the Lapps ii., 95 Helge-Ands church i., 312 Helligskoveu ii., 109 Helsingborg ii., 461 Helsingland i., 171 Henningsvaer ii., IIS, 131 HerniJsaud i., 160 Herring fishery ii., 146-149 Hifih seat ii., 275 Hjerdkiu i., 195; ii., 15 Hjortshamniar ii., 430 Hoganas coal-mines ii., 462 HOgklint i., 316 Holmsuud i., 155 Honesty of the people i., 41, 167, 178 ; ii., 39, 48, 202 Horse, loss of ii., 306 Hospitality. . .i., 114, 199, 245, 299, 401, 412; ii.,118 Hou^^es of refuge i., S3; ii., 109 Hovringdal ii., 263 Hunting in Lapland ii.,200 Husaby church ii., 359-361 Husmaud i., 394 ; ii., 216 Husum i., 391 Hveu ii., i61 loK, action of i., 219 Idre ii.,263 Ildhus ii., 272 Independent provinces ii., 334 Industrial schools i., 200 Inhospitable reception i., 2S3 Innertafle school i., 158 ; ii., 44 lunervik i'-, 45 Iron Age antiquities i., 359-307 Ivor Tofte ii., 290 Jagmastare ii., 40 J;ider church ii., 319 Jemlland .i., 1T6, 1S2 Jerrestad ii., 454 Jockmock i., 141 Jonkoping ii-, 349 Jotuu Mountains ii., 302 Journey to the North Cape i., 53 July festival ii., 434 Jukka.«jarvi ii., 90 Jusledal snow-field '., 23S Jutul-stue ii., 282 470 INDEX. Kalma« ii., 402-104 Karasjok "-'1^^ Karesuaudo ii., S9, 201 Kariu, legend of ii-, 410, 424-425 Kailshamu "•' ^^^ Karlski-oua ii., 427,428 Karlstad u.,S52 T,r. „ i., 51 Katain Lapland i.,124,131; ii. Kautokeino "■ Keries ][• Killing the reindeer ii' Kilpisjiirvi ij' Kindness to animals i. Kings' mounds, Upsala •• Kitchen heaps !• Kjelvig ii- Kjokkenmoddiuger i- Kjorgosj Njarg ii Kunbb farm ii- Knutby church ii. Kungelf ii- Kongsberg '■ Korpikylii ''■ Korpilombolo ii. Korterud ii Krislinehanin ii Krokengaard i Kulleu ii Kuttaineu ii , 77 ,195 . fl , 80 ,102 , 58 ,319 ,333 ,153 ,333 ,155 ,228 , 320 ,3CG ,420 ,, 51 , 62 ,280 ,,352 ,,244 ,405 ,,201 L.eui>at,s6kek i., 384, 3S9 Landskrona ii., 4G1 Lapland dress i., 122, 127 Lapland sledges ii., 72 Lapland winter costumes ii., 69 Lapp babies ii., 197 Lapp cradle ii., 196 Lapp dogs ii., 81 Lapp encampment i., 124, 131 ; ii., 78, 193 Lapp girls ii., 93, 94, 95 Lapp hospitality i., 124; ii.,7S, 79 Lapp men ii., 96, 97 Lapp shoes ii., 203 Lapp women ii., 94, 95 Larseu and family L, 119 Laxe fjord ii., 155 Lecki.) ii., 304 Legend of ihe " brown horse " i., 427 Leiradal valley ii.,304 Leksand ii., 220-222, 220, 227, 2.^4 Lemmings ii., 209 Leprosy i., 440, 441 Letters of love ii., 250 Levanger i., 188 Life at the S3^ters i., 281, 286, 292 ; ii., 256 Life in Lapland ii., 82 Lillehanimcr ii., 266 Lindesnses i , 410 Linkoping ii., 392 Lione i., 269 Ljungby ii., 446 LOberod. ... ii., 464 Lodal glacier i., 240 Lodingen ii., 116 LodiJse, town of ii., 366 Lofodeu islands ii., 115 Liikkre ii.,300 Lorn ii., 297 Lost in the suow ii., 101 Lulea i-, 146 Lulea Lappmark i., 142 Laud ii.,462 Luudeu ii., 245 Lyngeu fjord ii., U'^ Lysne portal i.,3S9 Maoeko i.,100: ii., 153 Maglestoue ii., 446 Malar Lake i., 13 ; ii., 310 Malmij ii., 4.59 Malstrbm ii., 1 15 Maltesholra ii., 453 Mandal house ii., 283 Marriage customs i., 265 ; ii., 234 Marstnind ii., 370 Mask of ice ii., 105 May festivals ii., 411-414 Medevi ii-, 336 Mesna River ii., 267 Midnight Sun i., 2, 61-C4, 70, 73, 106, 107 Midsummer in Sweden ii., 224 Milking reindeer i.,129 MjosVand i.,424 Mji3seu, Lalie ii., 205 Moen i., 254 Molde i., 193 Molde fjord i.,197 Mora ii., 230 Mora costume ii. , 231 Mork-foss i., 255 MiJrrum River ii., 435 Mosquitoes i., 57 Moss tracts ii., 167 Motala ii., 336 Mountain storm ii., 105 Movement of glaciers i., 241 Mud-bath ii., 433 Mukkavuoma ii., 103 Muonio River i., 69 ; ii., 05 Muonioniska i., 75 Muonionalusta i., 75 ; ii., 66 Muoniovaara i., 75 ; ii., 67 Mushrooms ii., 405 Njjuo fjord i., 250 INDEX. 471 Natfodal i., 258 Nas ii., 299 !Naiues of meu and womeu i., 103 ; ii., 247, 445 Naabo ii., 360 Nertrilet. i.,405 Kettraby ii., 4'2S Niomelsaska fall i., 144 Niavvi i., 13!/ Niemis ii., 55 Nikkala ii., 49 Nils Piciseu ii., ISS Nils Tuue i., 402 Njalla ii., 177 Njuiigis i., 135 Nora i., 169 ; ii., 323 Nordkyu ii., 155 Nordlaud ii., 143 Nordvik i., IGG Norrkoping ii., 372 Norrhxnd ii., 3S Norse costnme, prehistoric i., 362 North Cape i., 103 Northmen i., 3GS Norwegian bonder, .i., 232, 4C0 ; ii., 19, 23, £7, 30 Norwegian character i., 250, 2S9 Norwegian clergymen i., 403 Norwegian etiquette i., 400, 404 Norwegian frontier i., ISO Norwegian hamlets i., 252 Norwegian households, .i., 247 ; ii., 16, 19, 23, 27 Norwegian legends i., 117 Norwegian mouutains ii., 302 Norwegian roads? i., ISO Norwegian sleighs ii., 10 Norwegian songs ii., 20 Norwegian steamers i., 233 Norwegian towns i., 412 Nybodo ii.,201 Nyborg ii., 162 Nygaard glacier i., 230 Nystne ii., 275 Nystuen i., 398 Oatu, administration of i., 413 Oath of defence ii., 418 Odalsret (allodial right) ii., 2S9 Odde i-. 434 Ofvedskloster ii., 456 Olaf SkOtkonung's tomb ii., 361 Oland ii., 40S Old buildings of Norway ii., 271 Opstngu ii., 279 Orebro ii., 320 Ornaments, prehistoric i., 352 Orsa ii., 245, 247, 249 Ortofta ii., 463 Oscar II ii., 35 OstergOtland ii., 372 Ostersuud i., 177 Ottadal valley ii., 293 Pack of the reindeer ii., 76 Pajala i., 66 Palojoki River i., 77 Parks in Stockholm i., 20 Parsonages i., 116, 167; ii., 112, 227, 29T Passage graves i., 336 Pastor, election of ii., 260 Pasvig ii., 161 Pehr Wassara ii., 85 Peis ii., 274 Piety of the Lofodeu fishermen ii., 131 Piety of the Scandinavians ii., 54, 127 Pike ii.,213 Pirtiuiemi ii., 00 Pitea ii., 46 Plague in Scandinavia i., 420-428 Polmak ii., 179 Poor laws i., 172 Porphyry ii., 259 Post-station i., 50-52 Pottery, prehistoric i., 348 Preaching peddlers i., 102 Prehistoric implements, etc i., 333, 342, 348 Prehistoric man in Scaudiuavia i., 305, 331 Prest Konow i., 402 Prices in Sweden i., 15T Primitive customs i-, 111 ; ii-, 205 Prisons i., 146 Prof. Kjerulf. i., 94, 223 Ptarmigan ii., 201 Public buildings in Stockholm i., 24 Public commons ii., 251 Public schools i., 20, 150, 166, 200 Public warm baths ii., 208 Pulkas ii., 72 Queen Piiilippa ii.,333 Qvickjock i., 137 Rabelof ii., 450 Rada church ii., 352, 353 Railroad dinner i., 10 Railroad festival i., 177 Ramloft ii., 277, 27S RamlGsa ii., 403 Rattvik ii., 257 Raudland i., 427 Red snow i., 291 Reindeer i.,137 Reindeer, characteristics of. ii., 197-199 Reindeer, number of ii., 108 Reindeer cheese i., 129 472 INDEX. Reindeer holes ii., 80 Reindeer marks ii., 1G8 Reindeer milk i., 129 Reindeer pastures ii., S-t Reindeer swimming i., 126 Ringedal-foss i., 270 Risiuge church ii., 372, 373 River Lapps ii., 174,182 Rjukaudfoss i., 422 Roads i., 439 Rock drawings i., 351,355 Rogovn Ii., 273 Rogstue ii.,272 Riildal i., 285, 434 Romsdal i., 190 Ronneby ii., 430 RiJnnog's letter ii., 31 Roros ii . , 265 Rosendal i., 203 Rosheim ii., 303 Ruius i., 300, 310 Runic alphabet i., 300 Runic stones i.,364, 371-373,377 Ruskola i., 56 ; ii., 50 Russian Lapland ii., 84, 105 Saby ii., 345 SaJters i., 280, 287, 290, 292 ; ii., 254, 208 Ssetersdal i., 414-417 Siifstaholra ii., 328 Saiwits ii., 49 Salmon i., 07, 390 Saltdal i., 110 Samson Fiskekjou i., 282 Saudbo ii. , 293 Saukt Lars church i., 311 Siirna ii. , 263 Siiro ii., 300, 370 Suttajiirvi i., 64 ; ii., C3, 213 Saturday bath ii., 209 Scandinavia, features of i., 1 Scandinavian dishes i., 159 Scandinavian geology i., 2II Scandinavian glaciers i., 22T, 238, 240, 242 Scania ii., 441 Scania, farmers of ii., 443 Scauia, houses of ii.,442 Scania, names in ii., 445 Science, the aim of i., 317 School at N(n-rkoping ii., 375 School exercises ii. 383 School statistics ii., 380, 3S1, 390 Schools i., 20, 150, 106, 206 Schools in Sweden and Norway. . .ii., 378-391 Sea-bathing resorts ii., 370, 371 Sea Lapps ii.,172 Sea markSi i. 222 316 Seal-catching ,;. yg Selsjord ii., 27 Servants i., 209, 391 Servants, laws regardin. 303 Visingsborg ii-i 350 Visits to the King i., 30, 33 Voriug-foss i-, 272 Vossevaugen 1., 260 Voxtorp church ii., 406, 407 VuokaiueD ii., 100 Waterfalls, .i., 186, 192, 197, 253, 2C0, 272, 275, 276 Wedding ii., 235 Weueru lake ii., 351 Wertmiiller ii., 310 Westanor ii., 234 Westervik ii., 401 Wettern Lake ii., 337 Whitsunday ii., 212 Widows ii., 235 WidtskOfle ii., 453 Wild auimals 1., 183 Wiugaker ii., 327 Winter amusements ii., 47 Winter night in the North !., 2 ; ii., 1 Wisby i., 303-313 Women in the fields ii., 418, 419 Wood pulp, for paper ii., 433 Wrangel family ii., 325 Wreta church ii,, 332 YSTAD ii., 455 THE END. lONDON: rUlNTED BY WILLIAM CLOWRS AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFOUD ETUEET AND CIIAKING CBOSS. 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Those who gauge a book solely by the number of amusing stories it contains will find plenty to their taste, and ye more is there to the taste of those who are interested in improving their acc|iiaintanee w ith on« of the greatest captains who has ever made war ; one of the finest characters in htiman story the bravest, truest, most unselfish, and most unswerving man who has ever served his countrj at any time in any capacity." — World. " The volume is a museum of anecdote, history, and opinion, abounding so much in gooc things that it is difficult to select, and almost impossible to abridge." — Speitator. "The whole volume is replete with reminiscences of the Great Duke of the most intercstinj description."- Morning Post. LIVES OF TWELVE GOOD MEN. By JOHN W. BX7RG0N, B.D., Late Dean of Chichester. The Learned Divine, Martin Joseph Routh. The Restorer of the Old Paths. Hugh James Rose. The Man of Saintly Life. Charles Marriott, The Great Provost. Edward Hawkins. Tlie Remodeller of the Episcopate. Samuel Wilberforce. The Humble Christian. Richard Lynch Cotton. The Faithful Steward. Richard Greswell. The Pious Librarian. Henry Octavius Coxe. The Christian Philosopher, Henry Longueville Mansel. The Singleminded Bishop, William Jacobson. The Earnest Parish Priest. Charles Page Eden. The Good Layman. Charles Longuet Higgins. Fifth Edition. 2 Vols. Crown 8vo. 24s. " Everything about Burgon, from his figure to his umbrella, suggested originality at independence of mind. Here we see displayed his tenderness of heart, his love of childre his strong sense of humour, his fund of anecdote, his independence of speech, his ferve piety, his loyalty to his friends and to his University. No student of religious life in tl country during the XlXth Century can afford to neglect so rich a collection of anecdotes, ;u no Oxonian should pass by a work which is inspired by a passionate enthusiasm for much what is best and noblest in the past or present life of Oxford."— .■Ithemrum. EN Mr. jMurrays List of New Publications. 5 VOYAGE OF THE MARGHESA CAMSCHATKA AND NEW GUINEA. ? WITH NOTICES OF FORMOSA, LIU-KIU, AND THE ISLANDS OF THE MALAY ARCHIPELAGO. b By F. H. H. GUILLEMARD, F.L.S. 'civ and Cheaper Edition. Maps and Illustrations. One Volume. Medium ^vo. 2\s. " Mr. Guillemard lias done well in publishing a cheaper edition of that admirable book of avel TAc Cruise of the Marchesa, in which he showed to so much advantage both as a nar- tor of his various experiences on his different voyages, and as a keen observer of the natural [story of the strange lands which he visited during the cruise. The present edition has the lerit of being cheaper than the original, while the merit has not been attained by any sub- antive sacrifice of attractive matter." — John Bull. ENGLISH FANS AND FAN LEAVES. COLLECTED AND DESCRIBED. By LADY CHARLOTTE SCHREIBER. With 1 60 Plates. Handsomely Bound. Folio, £"] "js. The greater number of the designs upon these fans relate to historical events of the end of the iSth and beginning of the 19th centuries. *^* The Edition is Limited to 150 Copies, THE REVISION, REVISED. I. THE NEW GREEK TEXT. II. THE NEW ENGLISH VERSION. III. WESTCOTT AND HORT'S TEXTUAL THEORY. Vith a Reply to Bishop Ellicott's Defence of the Revisers, and a Vindication of the Traditional Reading of i Timothy iii. 16. By J. W. BURGON, B.D. Late Dean of Chichester. Second Edition, ivo. l\s. Mr. Murray s List of New Ptiblications. THE voir AGE OF THE BEAGLE. A NATURALIST'S VOYAGE ROUND THE WORLD, WITH NOTES ON TliE NATURAL HISTORY AND GEOLOGY OE THt COUNTRIES VISITED. By CHARLES DARWIN, M.A., F.R.S. Cheap and Popnlar Edition. With Portrait. Croivn %vo. 35. 6(/. \yust out THREE GENERATIONS OF ENGLISH WOMEN. OR MEMOIRS OF MRS. JOHN TAYLOR— MRS. SARAH AUSTIN-AND LADY DUFF GORDON. By JANET ROSS. /'/ 'itl: Portraits. 2 Vols. Croion ?,vo. 24/. " Two chaniiiug voliuiics brimful of fresh and delightful reading. . . A more valiiabli collection of letters pf eminent men lias seldom been published."— /"<•/// Mull (j♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ OLD DECCAN DAYS; OR, HINDOO FAIRY LEGENDS CURRENT LN SOUTHERN INDLV. COLLECTED FROM ORAL TRADITION. By MARY FRERE. Witli Introduction ly the late Sir 3ARTLE FRERE, BarU Fourth EdiHoii. With 50 lUustrations. Post 2>z'0. 5.V. \ Air. Murray s List of New Pttblications. THE POLITICAL AND PRIVATE CORRESPON- DENCE OF DANIEL O'CONNELL, 1792—184;. EDITED WITH NOTICES OF HIS LIFE AND TIMES. By WM. J. FITZPATRICK, F.S.A. With Portrait. 2 Vols. %vo. 360. "Mr. Fitzpatrick, while presenting to us a collection of moderate extent, has not only oven them into a web of fair average continuity, but has, as a sculptor would, presented to s his heio 'in the round,' so that we may consider each of his qualities in each varied ght, and judge of their combinaticn into a w hole, whether it is mean or noble, consistent or aconsistent, natural or forced Few indeed, as I think, of those who give a careful )erusal to these pages, will withhold their assent from the double assertion that he (O'Connell) fas a great man, and that he was a good man. Upon this issue the volume now before us ill enable us to try him ; and in trying him to try ourselves. For who can any longer doubt hat some debt is still due to him ; that he was, to say the least, both over-censured and nder-valued ? " — Mr. Gladstonk, in The Nineteenth Ceuturw THE CAREER OF MAJOR GEORGE BROADFOOT, C.B, IN AFGHANISTAN AND THE PUNJAB. COMPILED FROM HIS PAPERS AND THOSE OF LORDS ELLENBOROUGH AND HARDINGE. By MAJOR WM, BROADFOOT, R.E. With Portrait and Maps. 8vo. 15^. "An ofticer of rare capacitv— killed in the prime of life. How high was the estimate of ieorge Broadfoot mav be gathered not only from his deeds, but from the eulogies of friends vho were competent judges. Colin Mackenzie inscribed on his grave these words, ' The fore- nostman in India,'— and, added Havelock, ' truly in intellect and resolution he was.' The anie noble soldier, speaking of the siege of Jellalabad, called him ' greater than any or all hat fought in defence of that old wall,' and spoke of his 'more than Roman self-devotion, lis tenderness of heart and ' uncompromising love of truth.' Sir Henry Lawrence said 'he lad no equal on the frontier, and perhaps few in India ; ' while Lord Hardinge wrote --■ He mited a trreater variety of admirable qualities than any other officer 1 have met with in the ndian Army.' Herbert Edwardes, commenting on the Battle of Firozshah, refers to him as foremost among the dead as he was ever foremost among the living.' ■■— Spectator. 8 Mr. Murray s List of New Publications. PRINCIPAL 8HAIRP AND HIS FRIENDS, MEMOIRS OF JOHN CAMPBELL SHAIRP, Late Professor of Poetry at Oxford. By WM. KNIGHT, i Professor of Moral Philosophy in the University of St. Andrews. | With Portrait. Svo. iqx. 1 -^ I " Nearly all those who have contributed reminiscences of Shairp arc persons whose judgments are valuable, and who possess the literary faculty in no mean measure. Froni beginning to end, in the society of ' Shairp and His Friends,' the reader will find himself in ari atmosphere of rich intellectual and spiritual life, regaled with food for the mind and pura wine for the soul. He will linger with pleasure and profit over the various stages in Shairp's life. " — Siofst??t7!!. 1 THREE COUNSELS OF THE DIVINE MASTER. FOR THE CONDUCT OF THE SPIRITUAL LIFE. I.— THE COMMENCEMENT, n.— THE VIRTUES. 111. -THE CONFLICT. By r. MEYRICK GOULBURN, D.D. Dean of Norwich. 2 Vols. Crown ?>vo. l6s. " A lY.osl devout and helpful book." — Jo'i/i Hull. A BROKEN STIRRUP-LEATHER. By CHARLES GRANVILLE, Author of "Sir Hector's Watch" Fourth Edition. Cj-own Zio. 2s, 6d. " The characters are natural and life-like, and afford opportunity for a number of anuisin or excumg mcidents. In short, the book does not lose bv comparison with the bright an takmg style that characterised his previous hook."— Morn i'li^^ Post. "A finished work in its way. The heroes and heroines are all thorough gentlemen an gentlewomen— a somewhat rare perfection in these days— and are full of individual characte told with pleasant humour."— (;//rt;v//(/«. \ I Mr. Murray's List of New Publications. 9 THE INVISIBLE POWERS OF NATURE. SOME ELEMENTARY LESSONS IN PHYSICAL SCIENCE FOR YOUNG BEGINNERS. HEAT, LIGHT, SOUND, GRAVITATION, SOLIDS, FLUIDS, ELECTRICITY, MAGNETISM, &c. By E. M. CAILLARD. 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It will be an aid in enabling us to realise the wonderful variety of light, pleasant , and excellent food now within our reach, and in making many a good vegetable- more widely known." — From the Preface. ►»♦♦♦♦♦« NEW AND TTNIFORM EDITIONS OF GROTE'S HISTORIES. I.— HISTORY OF GREECE FROM THE EARLIEST PERIOD TO THE TIME OF ALEXANDER THE GREAT. With Portrait, Map, and Plaits. 10 Vols., Poit 8vo, So.f. * * This Edition is printed from the last Library Edition, which contained the- Authors final revision. The vohwies may be had separately. II.— PLATO. AND OTHER COMPANIONS OF SOKRATES. New Edition. With the Contents so arranged that each Volume is COMPOSED OF nearly RELATED SUBJECTS. 4 Vols. Croivn Svo. 55. each. 1 2 Mr. Murray's List of New Publications, THE INFALLIBILITY OF THE CHURCH. A COURSE OF LECTURES DELIVERED IN THE DIVINITY SCHOOL OF THE UNIVERSITY OF DUBLIN. By GEORGE SALMON, D.D., Provost of Trinity College, Dublin. 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Introduction . :Esdra8 Tobit & Esther Judith Song^ of Three Children Susanna Bel and Drag-on Hanasses Wisdom Scclesiasticus Baruch & Jeremy Uaccabees George Salmon, D.D., Provost Trin. Coll., Dublin. J. H. LuPTON, M.A., Sur-master of St. Paul's School. J. M. Fuller, M.A., Professor of Ecclesiastical History, King's Coll., London. C. J. Ball, M.A., Chaplain of Lincoln's Inn. Archdeacon Farrar, D.D. Alfred Edersheim, D.D. Archdeacon Gifford, D.D. Canon Rawlinson, M.A. Edited by HENRY WAGE, D.D., Preacher of Lincoln's Inn, Prebendary of St. Paul's, and Principal of King's College, London. 2 Vols. Medium Svo. $0s, "We feel that this Commentary on the Apocrypha marks a distinct advance in English theological scholarship. We can hardly imagine that thirty or even twenty years ago any- thing of the kind would have been attempted. We are sure that it would have been executed in a very diiTerent spirit." — Record. " Dr. Wace and his able coadjutors have done their work in so thorough, scholarly, and workmanlike, luminous, and yet so readable a manner, that they have left little to be desired. It is far and away the best guide to the study of the Apocrypha yet issued from the English or American press." — Nonconfonnist. LETTERS FROM NAPLES, i THE GREAT SILVER RIVER. During the Autumn of 1884. By AXEL MUNTHE. Translated by MAUDE VALERIE WHITE. With Frontispiece. Post Zvo. bs. Notes of a Residence in Buenos Ayres. By Sir HORACE RUMBOLD, Bart., K.C.M.G., H. B. M. Minister at The Hague. With Illustrations. Crown Svo. 12s. 14 Mr. Miun-ays List of Nezv Publications. SIR HENRY LAYARD'S EARLY ADVENTURES IN PERSIA, SUSIANA, AND BABYLONIA. BEFORE THE DISCOVERY OF NINEVEH. INCLUDING AN ASCENT OF THE KARUN AND A RESIDENCE AMONG THE BAKHTIYARI AND OTHER WILD TRIBES. With Portrait and Illustrations. 2 Vols. Svo. 24s. "Whatever maybe the claims of other publications, with very many readers these two volumes will be considered the most entertaining of the season's issues — they are full of the deepest interest from cover to cover." — Field. "II est impossible de lire cet ouvrage sans eprouver un sentiment de juste admiration covers Sir H. Layard." — Revite Nouvelle. MOUNTSTUART ELPHINSTONE'S HISTORY OF INDIA. I.-HINDU AND MAHOM MEDAN PERIODS. Edited by E. B. COWELL. ^th Edition, with Map. 8vo. iSs. ii.-RISEOFTHE BRITISH POWER in the EAST. By SIR EDWARD COLEBROOKE. With Maps. Zvo. i6f. A READABLE ENGLISH DICTIONARY. ETYMOLOGICALLY ARRANGED. With a Complete Alphabetical Index. By DAVID MILNE, M.A. Croiun 8vo. 75. 6d. "The book will be found both interesting and useful to many who have not had a Classical Education. The general plan of the book appears to be good, the practical utility of etymological information being much increased when words derived from the same source are brought together for comparison. The definitions are usually well expressed."— Atliencsum. " The main purpose of this work is to provide for those who either do not get a Classical Education, or who are mere beginners in the study of Greek and Latin, an easy, interesting and instructive method of acquiring a thorough knowledge of the derivatives from these languages common in English." — Preface. Mr. Mtirray's List of New Publicatiojis. ETON COLLEGE SCHOOL BOOKS-NEW SERIES. I--ETON LATIN GRAMMAR, for the higher form. By F. H. RAWLINS, M.A., and W. R. INGE, M.A., Fellows of King's College, Cambridge, and Assistant Masters at Eton College. Crown 8vo. 6s. " A good school-booW intelligently designed, well arranged, of moderate size, and excellently printed I he word lore, often so dry and shapeless, is here reduced to intelligible and interesting accountTofrh; history and analysts of inflexional forms, each in its proper place. The accidence is generally helpful and i a good steppmg-stone to philological study."— Jour>ia/ 0/ £ciucrMo/i. ^ ' "-ETON ELEMENTARY LATIN GRAMMAR. FOR USE IN THE LOWER FORMS. Compiled, with the sanction of the Headmaster, By C. A. AINGER, M.A., and H. G. WINTLE, M.A., Trinity College, Cambridge, Christ Church, Oxford, Assistant-Masters at Eton College. Crown 8zo. ^s. 61/. iii.-ETON PREPARATORY GRAMMAR, abridged from THE ABOVE WORK. Crozan Svo. 2s. iv.-'^ETON FIRST LATIN EXERCISE BOOK, adapted TO THE LATIN GRAMMAR. Crozvn Zvo. 2s. 6d. '• Excellent in everj' respect. It makes no pretence to a scientific method of treatment, but for the purpose for which it is intended we have no hesitation in pronouncing it almost ideally perfect." yoAn Bull. v.-ETON FOURTH FORM OVID: SELECTIONS FROM OVID AND TIBULLUS. With Notes by H. G. WINTLE. Third Edition. Crown Svo. 2s. 6d. vi.-ETON HORACE: THE ODES, EPODES, AND CARMEN S.ECULARE. With Notes. By F. W. CORNISH, M.A., Assistant-Master at Eton College. In Two Paris. JVitk Maps. Crown Svo. 6s. As it is considered desirable that the notes should be used only in the preparation of tlie lesson, and not in the class, they are bound up separate from the te.xt. "The idea of publishing the notes separately seems to us a good one in the case of a text-book for schools. The notes can then be employed in preparing the lesson, while the text alone is brought into class. The Eton Horace is a thoroughly sensible and useful book. The notes are suflSciently full without sacrificing brevity, and, as far as we can see, they do not shirk difficult passages." — Literary IForlJ. vii.-^'ETON EXERCISES IN ALGEBRA, By E. P. ROUSE and A. COCKSHOTT. Assistant-Masters at Eton College. Crozun Svo. 3^, vm.--^'^ETON EXERCISES IN ARITHMETIC. By Rev. T. DALTON, M.A., Assistant-Master at Eton College. Crown Svo. t,s. * Keys may be purchased by authenticated teachers on written application to the Publisher. 1 6 Mr. Murray's List of New Publications. THE DICTIONARY OF CHRISTIAN BIOGRAPHY, LITERATURE, SECTS, DOCTRINES, &c. Containing a Comprehensive Account of the Personal, the Literary, THE Dogmatic, and the Ecclesiastical Life of the Church during THE First Eight Centuries of Christianity. Edited by WM. SMITH, D.C.L., and HENRY WAGE, D.D. 4 Vols. Medium Svo. £6 i6s. 6d. "The value of the work arises, in the first place, from the fact that the contributors to these volumes have diligently eschewed mere compilation ; and, in fact, the articles include many really important monographs by highly competent scholars, frequently adding to a summary of what had been already known the results of new and original investigations. Essays of this class deserve the better welcome on account of their comparative infrequency in this country. ... In these volumes we welcome the most important addition that has been made for a century to the historical library of the English theological student." — The Times. "This noble collection of biographies and treatises ought properly to be reviewed, as it has been compiled, by distribution amongst specialists. Many of its articles, if they were printed in larger type, would make volumes of considerable size, and supply the critic with plenty of hard work The Dictionary as it stands is a truly noble monument of the best con- temporary English scholarship, in which the two absolutely necessary elements of the perfect historical temper— the conservative and the critical — too often opposed as contraries, are happily blended." — Saturday Review. *^* Subscribers are recommended to complete their Sets. SAMUEL TAYLOR COLERIDGE And the English Romantic School. By Professor ALOIS BRANDL, Professor of English at the University of Prague. Translated by LADY EASTLAKE. fVith Portrait. Crown %vo. I2s. "Coleridge's life, character, and substan- tial work recounted, described, and estimated with uncommon geniality and fairness, and a most agreeable absence of ostentation of science and system. ... A treatise of much learning and good sense."— 5/. James's Gazette. THE CAUSES WHICH LED TO THE FRENCH REVO- LUTION, 1789, And the State of Society before it. By ALEXIS DE TOCaUEVILLE. Translated by HENRY REEVE, D.C.L. Third Edition. 8vo. I2s. CORNEY GRAIN. By HIMSELF. Post Svo. JS. Mr. Murray s List of Nczu Publications. 17 TheLAND of the MIDNIGHT SUN; Summer and Winter Journeys through Sweden, Norway, Lap- land, and Northern Finland, By PAUL B. DU CHAILLU, Author of " Explorations in Equatorial Africa," (Sic. ^th Edition. Map and Illustrations. 2 Vols. 8vo. 36J. " Mr. Du Chaillu's work is likely to become one of the most popular books of the season. " — Times. " Full of interest from beginning to end." —Pall Mall Gazette. ' ' No writer has made travel in desolate regions more attractive." — Spectator. The CAMPAIGN of the NILE. The Testimony of an Indepen- dent Eye- Witness of the Heroic efforts made for the Rescue and Relief of Gordon and Khartoum. By ALEXANDER MACDONALD. PVit/i Maps and Flans. Cro7vn Svo. I2S. ' ' We have only been able to indicate a few of the many points of interest which Mr. Macdonald has presented inhisexcellentbook. He is to be thanked for telling with candour and clearness, as well as with great literary skill, the story of our military glory and poli- tical dishonour." — St. fames' s Gazette. KUGLER'S HANDBOOK OF PAINTING, THE ITALIAN SCHOOLS. By SIR A. HENRY LAYARD, G.C.B., D.C.L., Corresponding Member of the Institut de France, Academic des Inscriptions et Belles Lettres ; Trus- tee of the National Gallerj', &c.; Author of "Nineveh and its Remains." Ft/iA Edition. Revised, -with 200 Illus- trations. Ttuo Vols. Crozvn 8vo. 30J. OLD ENGLISH PLATE: ECCLESIASTICAL, DECORATIVE, AND DOMESTIC ; ITS MAKERS AND MARKS. - With Improved Tables of the Date- Letters USED IN England, Scot- land, AND Ireland. By WILFRED J. CRIPPS, M.A., F.S.A. Thi)-d Edition, with Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Medium Svo. 2is. A GLOSSARY OF ANGLO- INDIAN COLLOQUIAL WORDS AND PHRASES, Etymological, Historical, Geo- graphical, and Discursive. By CoL YULE, C.B., and ARTHUR BURNELL, CLE. Mediu?n Svo. 26s. Half bound. THE GEOGRAPHY OF BRITISH INDIA, POLITICAL AND PHYSICAL. By GEORGE SMITH, LL.D. Maps. Post Zvo. "js. 6d. "How very practical and, at the same time, how strictly scientific the study of the new geography may be rendered in capable hands may be judged from the admirable work by a distinguished member of the Coun- cil of this Society. Dr. George Smith, whose volume is the first systematic geography of British India, a model of careful research and of able exposition, which has done more than any other book to render the physical facts of our great Eastern dependency intelligible to the British nation." — Sir IV. W. Hunter. 1 8 Mr. Murray s List of New P^tblicahoiis. SOCIETY IN ROME UNDER THE CAESARS. By WM. RALPH INGE, M.A., Fellow of King's College, Cambridge, and Assistant Master at Eton College. Cro2vn Zvo. ds. Ci7///(?«/j.-— Religion— Philosophy — Morality— The Government and Society — Literature and Art — Grades of Society — Education, Marriage, ETC. — Daily Life — Amusements — Luxury. "An exceedingly interesting volume. An ably written monograph. Its subject and the interesting manner in which that subject has been treated make it far more attractive to general readers than the common run of such productions. Mr. Inge gives a clear and striking picture of the social aspects of Rome. Its scholarship is never obtrusive, and some of the popularity which has attended Prof. Mahaffy's labours in a similar field will doubtless crown Mr. Inge's successful efforts. " — Scohwati. THE WORKS OF GEORGE BORROW. 5 I'ols. Post ^vo, 2S. 6d. each. 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