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 HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, 13, GT. MAELBOROUCK ST.
 
 LIBRARY 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 RIVFRSIDF 
 
 Ex Libris 
 ISAAC FOOT
 
 DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE 
 
 OF 
 
 JOHN EVELYN, F.KS. 
 
 VOL. I.

 
 . . 
 
 "x ' # 
 
 
 u 
 
 /' / /:' o^) 
 
 '7<>
 
 A R Y 
 
 CORRESPONDENCE 
 
 JOHN EVELYN, F.R.S., 
 
 AUTHOR OF THE " SYLVA." 
 TO WHICH IS 8UBJOJNBD 
 
 Efje Pribate (tarespontence 
 
 BETWEEN 
 
 KING CHARLES I. AND SIR EDWARD NICHOLAS, 
 
 AND BETWEEN 
 
 SIR EDWARD HYDE, AFTERWARDS EARL OF CLARENDON, 
 AND SIR RICHARD BROWNE. 
 
 EDITED FROM THE ORIGINAL MSS. AT WOTTON. 
 
 . BY WILLIAM BRAY, ESQ., F.A.S. 
 A NEW EDITION, IN FOUR VOLUMES. 
 
 CORRECTED, REVISED, AND ENLARGED. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON : 
 HENRY COLBURN, PUBLISHER, 
 
 GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 
 1850.
 
 J)Aii7 
 
 E3J3 
 1X50 
 
 LONDON : 
 BRADPURV AND EVANS, PRINTKRS, WHITKFKIAP.S.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 . PAGB 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT TO THE PRESENT EDITION ..... vii 
 
 ORIGINAL DEDICATION ...... x j 
 
 - PREFACE ......... xili 
 
 - INTRODUCTION ...... t xv jj 
 
 DIARY; FROM 1620 10 1665 .... 
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES 
 APPENDIX
 
 ILLUSTBATIONS. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 PORTRAIT OP JOHN EVELYN, FROM THE PAINTING BY SIR 
 
 GODFREY KNELLER FuonTiimci. 
 
 VIEW OF WOTTON, IN SURREY, THE SEAT OF JOHN EVELYN To face Page 1. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 PORTRAIT OF MARY, WIFE OF JOHN EVELYN . . . FBOKTHPIECB. 
 PEDIGREE OF THE EVELYN FAMILY . . . At the end of the volume.
 
 ADVERTISEMENT 
 
 PBESENT EDITION OF EVELYN'S DIAEY. 
 
 THIS work has been out of print for many years ; 
 and little more is necessary, in presenting to the 
 public an Edition which has been long required, than 
 to indicate such differences as will be found to exist 
 between the present and former publications. 
 
 The Dedication, Preface, and Introduction, are 
 reprinted from those which appeared in the Quarto 
 Editions of 1818, and in the Octavo Edition of 1827. 
 
 In compliance with a wish very generally ex~ 
 pressed, the spelling of the Diary has been modern- 
 ized. No other change will be found in the text, 
 except such as a fresh examination of the original 
 manuscript had rendered essential to its correctness 
 and completeness. 
 
 The Diary of Evelyn does not, in all respects, 
 strictly fulfil what the term implies. Information is
 
 Vlll ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 continually found in it (introduced by such expres- 
 sions as "afterwards," "since," "now"), which it 
 could not have contained if written from day to day. 
 Mistakes are also made which the writer must have 
 escaped, if the record had been always entered on the 
 day, and in the place, to which it refers. In the 
 Additional Notes appended to the present Edition 
 particular mention is made of some few of these ; and 
 as a slight, but perfectly satisfactory, evidence that 
 the form in which we have received the work is not 
 that in which it was originally written, it may be 
 worth adding, in this place, that the notice of " Jeru- 
 salem Church" (vol. i., p. 32), slipped by accident 
 into the entries which refer to Antwerp, belongs to 
 those of Bruges, where the church, so called from its 
 containing a facsimile of the Holy Sepulchre, is still 
 shown, and the legend told of the citizen whose journeys 
 to the Holy Land enabled him to complete it. 
 
 The truth appears to be, that Evelyn's Diary, as 
 found among the papers at Wotton, had been copied 
 by the writer from memoranda made at the time 
 of the occurrences noted in it, and had received 
 occasional alterations and additions in the course 
 of transcription. Evelyn has himself told us in 
 what way the book originated. "In imitation of 
 " what I had seen my father do," he remarks, when 
 speaking of himself in his twelfth year, " I began to 
 " observe matters more punctually, which I did use 
 " to set down in a blank almanack." If we suppose
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. IX 
 
 the matters thus observed to have been gradually 
 transferred by Evelyn from the blank almanacks to 
 the quarto volume in which they were found, and 
 from which the volumes before the reader are printed, 
 the circumstance will explain discrepancies otherwise 
 not easily reconciled, and will account for differing 
 descriptions of the same objects and occurrences 
 which have occasionally been found in the manuscript 
 thus compiled. The quarto, still at Wotton, consists 
 of seven hundred pages written clearly by Evelyn in 
 a very small close hand, and containing the continuous 
 records of fifty-six years. 
 
 The reader will observe, in the original preface to 
 the Diary, acknowledgments of the great and mate- 
 rial assistance rendered to its Editor by Mr. Upcott. 
 The interest taken by the latter gentleman in the pub- 
 lication of this delightful book, continued unabated 
 until his death ; and the latest literary labour in which 
 he was engaged, was the revision and preparation of 
 the present edition. He lived to complete, for this 
 purpose, a fresh and careful comparison of the edition 
 printed in octavo in 1827 (which he had himself, 
 with the exception of the earliest sheets of the first 
 volume, superintended for the press) with the original 
 manuscript ; by which many material omissions in 
 the earlier quartos were supplied, and other not 
 unimportant corrections made, 
 
 It is due to Mr. Upcott to add that these additions 
 would not so long have been withheld, if the early 
 
 VOL. T. b
 
 X ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 sheets of the first volume of the octavo edition had 
 not been printed off before its formal revision was 
 undertaken by him. The octavo and the quartos are 
 only in agreement at the outset. Many curious dis- 
 crepancies are afterwards observable, which resulted 
 from Mr. Upcott's anxiety, as soon as the opportunity 
 was offered him, to bring the text of the octavo into 
 more exact agreement with the original. 
 
 "While engaged in this labour he was permitted to 
 have access to the manuscripts preserved at Wotton ; 
 and, desiring to complete the selections from Evelyn's 
 Correspondence, originally published with the Diary, 
 he transcribed many new and hitherto unpublished 
 letters, also with a view to this edition, and added 
 several others derived from private sources. The 
 Evelyn Correspondence, thus enriched by many ori- 
 ginal letters of great interest, will occupy the same 
 space as the Diary. 
 
 January, 1850.
 
 DEDICATION. 
 
 TO JOHN EVELYN, ESQ. 
 
 OF WOTTON, IN SUBBEY. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 THE last sheets of this Work, with a Dedication to the 
 late LADY EVELYN, under whose permission it was to be 
 given to the Public, were in the hands of the Printer, when 
 it pleased God to release her from a long and painful 
 illness, which she had borne with the greatest fortitude 
 and resignation to the Divine Will. 
 
 These papers descended with the estate, from the cele- 
 brated JOHN EVELYN, Esq. (a relative of your immediate 
 ancestor) to his great-great-grandson, the late Sir Frederick 
 Evelyn, Bart. This gentleman dying without issue, 
 entrusted the whole to his Lady, whose loss we have now 
 to lament; of whose worth, and of the value of whose 
 friendship, I have happily had long knowledge and expe- 
 rience. Alive to the honour of the family, of which she 
 was thus made the representative, she maintained it in 
 every point, and with the most active benevolence ; and 
 her care extended to every part of the property attached 
 to the domain. Mr. Evelyn had formed in his own mind 
 a plan of what he called an " Elysium Britannicum," 
 in which the Librar and Garden were intended to be
 
 Xll DEDICATION. 
 
 the principal objects : could he return and visit this his 
 beloved Seat, he would find his idea realised by the 
 arrangement and addition which her Ladyship had made to 
 his library, and by the disposition of the flower-garden 
 and greenhouse, which she had embellished with the 
 most beautiful and curious flowers and plants, both 
 native and exotic. 
 
 In completion and full justification of the confidence 
 thus reposed in her, her Ladyship has returned the Estate 
 with its valuable appendages, to the family, in your 
 person. 
 
 I have, therefore; now to offer these Volumes to you, 
 Sir ; with a wish, that you and your posterity may long 
 njoy the possessions, and continue the line of a family so 
 much distinguished, in many of its branches, for superior 
 worth and eminence. 
 
 I am, Sir, 
 Your most obedient, 
 
 And most humble servant, 
 
 WILLIAM BRAY. 
 Shere. 2nd Jan., 1818.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THE following pages are taken from the Journal of 
 JOHX EVELYN, Esq. author (amongst many other works) 
 of the celebrated Sylva, a Treatise on Forest-Trees, and 
 from which he has often been known by the name of 
 " The Sylva Evelyn." The Journal is written by him in 
 a very small, close hand, in a quarto volume containing 
 700 pages, which commences in 1641, and is continued 
 to the end of 1697; and from thence is carried on in a 
 smaller book till within about three weeks of his death, 
 which happened 27th Feb., 1705-6, in the 86th year of 
 his age. 
 
 These books, with numberless other papers in his hand- 
 Avriting, are in the valuable library at "VYotton, which was 
 chiefly collected by him. Lady Evelyn, the late possessor 
 of that very respectable old Mansion, after much solicita- 
 tion from many persons, consented to favour the Public
 
 XIV PREFACE. 
 
 with this communication. The last sheets were in the 
 hands of the Printer, when the death of that Lady 
 happened. 
 
 The Editor who has been intrusted with the preparation 
 of the work for the Press, is fully diffident of his com- 
 petence to make a proper selection; and is even aware 
 that many things will be found in its pages which, in the 
 opinion of some, and not injudicious, Critics, may appear 
 too unimportant to meet the public eye. But it has been 
 thought that some information, at least some amusement, 
 would be furnished by the publication ; and it has been 
 supposed that some curious particulars of persons and 
 transactions would be found in the accompanying notes. 
 Though these papers may not be of importance enough 
 to appear in the pages of an Historian of the Kingdom, 
 they may, in some particulars, set even such an one right ; 
 and, though the notices are short, they may, as to persons, 
 give some hints to Biographers, or at least may gratify 
 the curiosity of those who are inquisitive after the mode 
 in which their ancestors conducted business, or passed 
 their time. It is hoped that such will not be altogether 
 disappointed. 
 
 Thus, when mention is made of great men going after 
 dinner to attend a Council of State, or the business of
 
 PREFACE. XV 
 
 their particular Offices, or the Bowling-Green, or even 
 the Church ; of an Hour's Sermon being of a moderate 
 length ; of ladies painting their faces being a novelty ; or 
 of their receiving visits of Gentlemen whilst dressing, 
 after having just risen out of bed ; of the female attendant 
 of & lady of fashion travelling on a pillion behind one of 
 the footmen, and the footmen riding with swords ; such 
 things, in the view above-mentioned, may not be altogether 
 incurious. 
 
 For many corrections and many of the Notes the Editor 
 acknowledges, with great pleasure and regard, that he is 
 indebted to James Bindley, Esq.,* of Somerset-House, a 
 Gentleman who possesses an invaluable Collection of the 
 most rare Books and Pamphlets, and whose liberality in 
 communications is equal to the ability afforded by such 
 a collection. 
 
 He has also most cheerfully to acknowledge how much 
 he is obliged for many historical notes and elucidations 
 to a literary Gentleman very conversant with English 
 History, whose name he would gladly give, were it not 
 withheld by particular request, and whose research, 
 
 * Since the first edition of this Work, the Editor has to lament the loss of 
 this valuable Friend ; who died in the 81st year of his age, Sept. 11, 1818, 
 just as the printing of the Second Edition was begun.
 
 XVI PREFACE. 
 
 through upwards of seven hundred contemporary volumes 
 of Manuscripts and Tracts, has doubtless given additional 
 interest to many of the Letters. 
 
 The Editor returns his best thanks also to Mr. Upcott, 
 of the London Institution, for the great and material 
 assistance received from him in this Publication, besides 
 his attention to the superintendence of the Press.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 MR. EVELYN lived in the busy and important times of 
 King Charles I., Oliver Cromwell, King Charles II., King 
 James II., and King William, and early accustomed him- 
 self to note such things as occurred, which he thought 
 worthy of remembrance. He was known to, and had 
 much personal intercourse with the Kings Charles II. and 
 James II. ; and he was in habits of great intimacy with 
 many of the ministers of these two monarchs, and with 
 many of the eminent men of those days, as well amongst 
 the clergy as the laity. Foreigners distinguished for 
 learning, or arts, who came to England, did not leave it 
 without visiting him. 
 
 In the first edition of the " Biographia Britannica," in 
 folio, Dr. Campbell has given a long article relating to this 
 gentleman. Dr. Hunter, in his edition of the " Sylva," in 
 1776, has copied great part of what Dr. Campbell had writ- 
 ten. Dr. Kippis added several particulars in the Second 
 Edition of the "Biographia," in 1793; and Mr. Chal- 
 mers gives some farther information in his " Biographical 
 Dictionary/' in 8vo. (1816). But the following pages will 
 still contribute more extensive and important particulars 
 of this eminent man. They will show that he did not 
 travel merely to count steeples, as he expresses himself in 
 one of his Letters : they will develop his private character 
 as one of the most amiable kind. With a strong predilec- 
 tion for monarchy, with a personal attachment to Kings
 
 XV111 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Charles II. and James II., formed when they resided at 
 Paris, he was yet utterly averse to the arbitrary measures 
 of these monarchs. 
 
 Strongly and steadily attached to the doctrine and 
 practice of the Church of England, he yet felt the most 
 liberal sentiments for those who differed from him in 
 opinion. He lived in intimacy with men of all persuasions; 
 nor did he think it necessary to break connexion with 
 any one who had even been induced to desert the Church 
 of England, and embrace the doctrines of that of Rome. 
 In writing to the brother of a gentleman thus circum- 
 stanced, in 1659, he expresses himself in this admirable 
 manner : " For the rest, we must commit to Providence 
 the success of times and mitigation of proselytical fervours ; 
 having for my own particular a very great charity for all 
 who sincerely adore the Blessed Jesus, our common and 
 dear Saviour, as being full of hope that God (however the 
 present zeal of some, and the scandals taken by others at 
 the instant [present] affliction of the Church of England 
 may transport them) will at last compassionate our infir- 
 mities, clarify our judgments, and make abatement for our 
 ignorances, superstructures, passions, and errors of corrupt 
 times and interests, of which the Romish persuasion can 
 no way acquit herself, whatever the present prosperity and 
 secular polity may pretend. But God will make all things 
 manifest in his own time, only let us possess ourselves in 
 patience and charity. This will cover a multitude of 
 imperfections ." 
 
 He speaks with great moderation of the Roman Catholics 
 in general, admitting that some of the laws enacted against 
 them might be mitigated ; but of the Jesuits he had the 
 very worst opinion, considering them as a most dangerous 
 Society, and the principal authors of the misfortunes which 
 befel King James II., and of the horrible persecutions of 
 the Protestants in France and Savoy.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XIX 
 
 He must have conducted himself with uncommon pru- 
 dence and address : for he had personal friends in the 
 Court of Cromwell, at the same time that he was corre- 
 sponding with his father-in-law, Sir Richard Browne, the 
 ambassador of King Charles II. at Paris ; and at the same 
 period that he paid his court to the king, he maintained 
 his intimacy with a disgraced minister. 
 
 In his travels, he made acquaintance not only with men 
 eminent for learning, but with men ingenious in every art 
 and profession. 
 
 His manners we may presume to have been most agree- 
 able : for his company was sought by the greatest men, not 
 merely by inviting him to their own tables, but by their 
 repeated visits to him at his own house; and this was 
 equally the case with regard to the ladies, of many of 
 whom he speaks in the highest style of admiration, affec- 
 tion, and respect. He was master of the French, Italian, 
 and Spanish languages. That he had read a great deal is 
 manifest ; but at what time he found opportunities for 
 study, it is not easy to say. He acknowledges himself to 
 have been idle, while at Oxford ; and, when on his travels, 
 he had little time for reading, except when he stayed about 
 nineteen weeks in France, and at Padua, where he was 
 likewise stationary for several months. At Rome, he 
 remained a considerable time ; but, whilst there, he was so 
 continually engaged in viewing the great variety of inte- 
 resting objects to be seen in that city, that he could have 
 found little leisure for reading. When resident in England, 
 he was so much occupied in the business of his numerous 
 offices, in paying visits, in receiving company at home, 
 and in examining whatever was deemed worthy of curiosity, 
 or of scientific observation, that it is astonishing how he 
 found the opportunity to compose the numerous books 
 which he published, and the much greater number of 
 Papers, on almost every subject, which still remain in
 
 XX INTRODUCTION. 
 
 manuscript ; * to say nothing of the very extensive and 
 voluminous correspondence which he appears to have car- 
 ried on during his long life, with men of the greatest 
 eminence in Church and State, and the most distinguished 
 for learning, both Englishmen and foreigners. In this 
 correspondence, he does not seem to have made use of an 
 amanuensis ; and he has left transcripts in his own hand of 
 great numbers of letters both received and sent. He 
 observes, indeed, in one of these, that he seldom went to 
 bed before twelve, or closed his eyes before one o'clock. 
 
 He was happy in a wife of congenial dispositions with 
 his own, of an enlightened mind, who had read much, and 
 was skilled in etching and painting, yet attentive to the 
 domestic concerns of her household, and a most affec- 
 tionate mother. Of her personal attractions an idea may 
 be formed from the print accompanying this work, 
 engraved from a most exquisite drawing, in pencil, by 
 that celebrated French artist, Nanteuil, in 1650. 
 
 So many particulars of Mr. Evelyn have been given in 
 the " Biographia Britannica/'f and in Mr. Chalmers's 
 valuable memoir in the " Biographical Dictionary/' that it 
 is unnecessary to repeat them ; but some circumstances 
 have been there omitted, and others, which are mentioned, 
 admit of elucidation, or addition. Such it is proposed to 
 notice here, in addition to the foregoing personal sketch. 
 
 His grandfather, George, was not the first of the family 
 who settled in Surrey. John, father of this George, was 
 of Kingston, in 1520, and married a daughter of David 
 Vincent, Esq., Lord of the Manor of Long Ditton, near 
 Kingston, which afterwards came into the hands of 
 George, who there carried on the manufacture of gun- 
 
 * Amongst these is a Bible bound in three volumes, the pages filled with 
 notes. See Appendix to the Second Volume of this Edition for a list of 
 Evelyn's published and unpublished writings, as far as it has been possible 
 to ascertain them. f Second Edition, 1793, vol. v.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXI 
 
 powder. He purchased very considerable estates in 
 Surrey, and three of his sons became heads of three 
 families, viz., Thomas, his eldest son, at Long Ditton ; 
 John at Godstone, and Richard at Wottou. Each of 
 these three families had the title of Baronet conferred on 
 them at different times, viz., at Godstone, in 1660; Long 
 Ditton, in 1683 ; and Wotton, in 1713. 
 
 The manufacture of gunpowder was carried on at God- 
 stone as well as at Long Ditton; but it does not appear 
 that there ever was any mill at Wotton, or that the pur- 
 chase of that place was made with such a view. Nor does 
 it appear, from the words quoted in the " Biographia," 
 that Mr. Evelyn's grandfather planted the timber, with 
 which Wotton was, and always has been, so well stored. 
 The soil produces it naturally, and, in addition to what has 
 been planted, it has at all times been carefully preserved. 
 
 It may be not altogether incurious to observe that, 
 though Mr. Evelyn's father was a man of very considerable 
 fortune, the first rudiments of this son's learning were 
 acquired from the village schoolmaster over the porch of 
 Wotton Church. Of his progress at another school, and 
 at College, he himself speaks with great humility; nor 
 did he add much to his stock of knowledge, whilst he 
 resided in the Middle Temple, to which his father sent 
 him, with the intention that he should apply to what he 
 calls " an impolished study/' which he says he never liked. 
 More will be said of this in a subsequent page. 
 
 The " Biographia " does not notice his tour in France, 
 Flanders, and Holland, in 1641, when he made a short 
 campaign as a volunteer in an English regiment then in 
 service in Flanders.* 
 
 * This expression is, perhaps, hardly applicable to the fact of Evelyn's 
 having witnessed a siege merely as a curious spectator. He reached the 
 camp on the 2nd, and left it on the 8th of August, 1641. It is certain, how- 
 ever, that during these six days he took his turn on duty, and trailed a pike. 
 See Diary, v. i., p. 19. [u.]
 
 XX11 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Nor does it notice his having set out, with intent to 
 join King Charles I. at Brentford ; and subsequently 
 desisting when the result of that battle became known, on 
 the ground that his brother's as well as his own estates 
 were so near London as to be fully in the power of the 
 Parliament, and that their continued adherence would 
 have been certain ruin to themselves without any advan- 
 tage to his Majesty. In this dangerous conjuncture he 
 asked and obtained the King's leave to travel. Of these 
 travels, and the observations he made therein, an ample 
 account is given in this Diary. 
 
 The national troubles coming on before he had engaged 
 in any settled plan for his future life, it appears that he 
 had thoughts of living in the most private manner, and 
 that, with his brother's permission, he had even begun to 
 prepare a place for retirement at Wotton. Nor did he 
 afterwards wholly abandon his intention, if the plan of a 
 college, which he sent to Mr. Boyle in 1659, was really 
 formed on a serious idea. This scheme is given at length 
 in the " Biographia/' and in Dr. Hunter's edition of the 
 "Sylva" in 1776; but it maybe observed that he pro- 
 poses it should not be more than twenty-five miles from 
 London. 
 
 As to his answer to Sir George Mackenzie's panegyric 
 on Solitude, in which Mr. Evelyn takes the opposite part, 
 and urges the preference to which public employment and 
 an active life is entitled, it may be considered as the 
 playful essay of one who, for the sake of argument, would 
 controvert another's position, though in reality agreeing 
 with his own opinion ; if we think him serious in two 
 letters to Mr. Abraham Cowley, dated 12th March and 
 24th August, 1666, in the former of which he writes: 
 " You had reason to be astonished at the presumption, not 
 to name it affront, that I, who have so highly celebrated 
 recess, and envied it in others, should become an advocate
 
 INTRODUCTION. XX111 
 
 for the enemy, which of all others it abhors and flies from. 
 I conjure you to believe that I am still of the same mind, 
 and that there is no person alive who does more honour 
 and breathe after the life and repose you so happily 
 cultivate and advance by your example ; but, as those who 
 praised dirt, a flea, and the gout, so have I public employ- 
 ment in that trifling Essay, and that in so weak a style 
 compared with my antagonist's, as by that alone it will 
 appear I neither was nor could be serious, and I hope you 
 believe I speak my very soul to you. 
 
 ' Sunt enim Musis sua ludicra, mista Camoenis 
 Otia sunt ' " 
 
 In the other, he says, " I pronounce it to you from my 
 heart as oft as I consider it, that I look on your fruitions 
 with inexpressible emulation, and should think myself 
 more happy than crowned heads, were I, as you, the arbiter 
 of mine own life, and could break from those gilded toys 
 to taste your well-described joys with such a wife and such 
 a friend, whose conversation exceeds all that the mistaken 
 world calls happiness." But, in truth, Mr. Evelyn's mind 
 was too active to admit of solitude at all times, however 
 desirable it might appear to him in theory. 
 
 After he had settled at Deptford, which was in the time 
 of Cromwell, he kept up a constant correspondence with 
 Sir Eichard Browne (his father-in-law), the King's Am- 
 bassador at Paris ; and though his connexion must have 
 been known, it does not appear that he met with any 
 interruption from the government here. Indeed, though 
 he remained a decided loyalist, he managed so well as 
 to have intimate friends even amongst those nearly con- 
 nected with Cromwell; and to this we may attribute his 
 being able to avoid taking the Covenant, which he says he 
 never did take. In 1659, he published " An Apology for 
 the Royal Party ;" and soon after printed a paper which
 
 XXIV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 was of great service to the King, entitled " The late News, 
 or Message from Brussels Unmasked," which was an 
 answer to a pamphlet designed to represent the King in 
 the worst light. 
 
 On the Restoration, we find him very frequently at 
 Court ; and he became engaged in many public employ- 
 ments, still attending to his studies and literary pursuits. 
 Amongst these, is particularly to be mentioned the Royal 
 Society, in the establishment and conduct of which he 
 took a very active part. He procured Mr. Howard's 
 library to be given to them ; and by his influence, in 1667, 
 the Arundelian Marbles were obtained for the University 
 of Oxford. 
 
 His first appointment to a public office was in 1662, as 
 a Commissioner for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, 
 and incumbrances, and regulating hackney-coaches in 
 London. In the same year, he sat as a Commissioner on 
 an enquiry into the conduct of the Lord Mayor, &c., 
 concerning Sir Thomas Gresham's charities. In 1664, he 
 was in a commission for regulating the Mint; in the 
 same year, was appointed one of the Commissioners for 
 the care of the Sick and Wounded in the Dutch war; and 
 he was continued in the same employment in the second 
 war with that country. 
 
 He was one of the Commissioners for the repair of 
 St. Paul's Cathedral, shortly before it was burnt, in 1666. 
 In that year, he was also in a commission for regulating 
 the farming and making saltpetre; and in 1671, we find 
 him a Commissioner of Plantations on the establishment 
 of the Board, to which the Council of Trade was added 
 in 1672. 
 
 In 1685, he was one of the Commissioners of the Privy 
 Seal, during the absence of the Earl of Clarendon (who 
 held that office), on his going Lord Lieutenant to Ireland. 
 On the foundation of Greenwich Hospital, in 1695, he
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXV 
 
 was one of the Commissioners; and, on 30th June, 1696, 
 laid the first stone of that building. He was also appointed 
 Treasurer, with a salary of 200 a year ; but he says that 
 it was a long time before he received any part of it. 
 
 When the Czar of Muscovy came to England, in 1698, 
 proposing to instruct himself in the art of ship-building, 
 he was desirous of having the use of Sayes Court, in conse- 
 quence of its vicinity to the King's dock-yard at Deptford. 
 This was conceded ; but during his stay he did so much 
 damage, that Mr. Evelyn had an allowance of 150 for it. 
 He especially regrets the mischief done to his famous 
 holly-hedge, which might have been thought beyond the 
 reach of damage. But one of Czar Peter's favourite recrea- 
 tions had been, to demolish the hedges by riding through 
 them in a wheel-barrow. 
 
 October, 1699, his elder brother, George Evelyn, dying 
 without male issue, aged eighty -three, he succeeded to the 
 paternal estate ; and, in May following, he quitted Sayes 
 Court, and went to Wotton, where he passed the remainder 
 of his life, with the exception of occasional visits to London, 
 where he retained a house. In the great storm of 1708, 
 he mentions in his last Edition of the " Sylva," above 
 1000 trees were blown down in sight of his residence. 
 
 He died at his house in London, 27th February, 1705-8, 
 in the eighty-sixth year of his age, and was buried at 
 Wotton. His lady survived him nearly three years, dying 
 9th February, 1708-9, in her seventy-fourth year, and was 
 buried near him at Wotton. The inscriptions on their 
 tombs, and on those of hte father and mother, are sub- 
 joined. His personal character was truly amiable. In the 
 relative duties of father, husband, and friend, few could 
 exceed him. 
 
 Of Mr. Evelyn's children, a son, who died at the age of 
 five, and a daughter, who died at the age of nineteen, were 
 almost prodigies. The particulars of their extraordinary
 
 XXVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 endowments, and the profound manner in which he was 
 affected at their deaths, may be seen in these volumes, 
 and cannot be read without exciting the most tender 
 emotions. 
 
 One daughter was well and happily settled; another 
 less so ; but she did not survive her marriage more than a 
 few months. The only son who lived to the age of man- 
 hood, inherited his father's love of learning, and distin- 
 guished himself by several publications. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn's employment as a Commissioner for the care 
 of the Sick and Wounded was very laborious ; and, from 
 the nature of it, must have been extremely unpleasant. 
 Almost the whole labour was in his department, which 
 included all the ports between the river Thames and Ports- 
 mouth ; and he had to travel in all seasons and weathers, 
 by land and by water, in the execution of his office, to 
 which he gave the strictest attention. It was rendered 
 still more disagreeable by the great difficulty which he 
 found in procuring money for support of the prisoners. 
 In the library at Wotton, are copies of numerous letters 
 to the Lord Treasurer and Officers of State, representing, 
 in the strongest terms, the great distress of the poor men, 
 and of those who had furnished lodging and necessaries 
 for them. At one time, there were such arrears of 
 payment to the victuallers that, on landing additional sick 
 and wounded, they lay some time in the streets, the 
 publicans refusing to receive them, and shutting up their 
 houses. After all this trouble and fatigue, he found as 
 great difficulty in getting his accounts settled.* In 
 
 * 2nd October, 1665, be writes to the Lord Chancellor, Lord Arlington, 
 Sir William Coventry, and Sir Philip Warwick, complaining of want of money 
 for the prisoners ; praying that whilst he and his brother-Commissioners 
 adventure their persons and all that is dear to them, in this uncomfortable 
 service, they may not be exposed to ruin, and to a necessity of abandoning 
 their care ; and adding that they have lost their officers and servants by the 
 pestilence, aiid are hourly environed with the saddest objects of perishing
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXV11 
 
 January, 1665-6, he formed a plan for an Infirmary at 
 Chatham, which he sent to Mr. Pepys, to be laid before 
 the Admiralty, with his reasons for recommending it ; but 
 it does not appear that it was carried into execution. 
 
 His employments, in connection with the repair of 
 St. Paul's (which, however, occupied him but a brief time), 
 as in the Commission of Trade and Plantations, and in the 
 building of Greenwich Hospital, were much better adapted 
 to his inclinations and pursuits. 
 
 As a Commissioner of the Privy Seal in the reign or 
 King James II., he had a difficult task to perform. He 
 was most steadily attached to the Church of England, and 
 the King required the Seal to be affixed to many things 
 incompatible with the welfare of that Church. This, on 
 some occasions, he refused to do, particularly to a license 
 to Dr. Obadiah Walker to print Popish books ;* and on 
 other occasions he absented himself, leaving it to his 
 brother-Commissioners to act as they thought fit. Such, 
 however, was the King's estimation of him, that no dis- 
 pleasure was evinced on this account. 
 
 Of Mr. Evelyn's attempt to bring Colonel Morley 
 (Cromwell's Lieutenant of the Tower immediately pre- 
 ceding the Restoration) over to the King's interest, an im- 
 perfect account is given in the " Biographia/' partly taken 
 from the additions to " Baker's Chronicle," which was pub- 
 lished with a continuation in 1696. The fact is, that there 
 was great friendship between these gentlemen, and Mr. 
 Evelyn did endeavour to engage the Colonel in the King's 
 interest. He saw him several times, and put his life into 
 
 people. " I have," says he, " fifteen places full of sick men, where they put 
 me to unspeakable trouble ; the magistrates and justices, who should further 
 us in our exigencies, hindering the people from giving us quarters, jealous of 
 the contagion, and causing them to shut the doors at our approach." 
 
 * Dr. Walker had been a member of the Church of England, but had re 
 nounced it, and turned Papist
 
 XXV111 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 his hands by writing to him on 12th January, 1659-60; * 
 he did not succeed, and Colonel Morley was too much his 
 friend to betray him : but so far from the Colonel having 
 settled matters privately with Sir Anthony Ashley Cooper, 
 or General Monk,t as there described, he was obliged, when 
 the Restoration took place, actually to apply to Mr. Evelyn 
 to procure his pardon; who obtained it accordingly, 
 though, as he states, the Colonel was obliged to pay a large 
 sum of money for it. This could not have happened, if there 
 had been any previous negotiation with General Monk. 
 
 There are some mistakes in the " Biographia " as to 
 Mr. Evelyn's Works.J Dr. Campbell, who wrote in the 
 original edition, took some pains to vindicate Mr. Evelyn's 
 book, entitled, "Navigation and Commerce, their Origin 
 and Progress/' from the charge of being an imperfect 
 work, unequal to the expectation excited by the title. 
 But the Doctor, who had not the information which this 
 Journal so amply affords on this subject, was not aware 
 that what was so printed was nothing more than an 
 Introduction to the History of the Dutch War; a work 
 undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express command of 
 King Charles II., and the materials for which were 
 furnished by the Officers of State. The completion of 
 this work, after considerable progress had been made in 
 it, was put a stop to by the King himself, for what reason 
 does not appear; but perhaps it was found that Mr. 
 Evelyn was inclined to tell too much of the truth con- 
 cerning a transaction, which it will be seen by his Journal 
 
 * A copy of this letter, with a note of Mr. Evelyn's subjoined, is given 
 among the illustrations. 
 
 } Colonel Morley's name is scarcely mentioned in the account of General 
 Monk's conduct on this occasion, written by John Price, D.D. (who was 
 sent to him on the king's behalf, and had continual intercourse with him), 
 published in 1680, and reprinted by Baron Maseres, in 1815. 
 
 J For an attempt to draw out a correct list of such as have been published, 
 see Illustrations in the Appendix to vol. ii. of the present Edition.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXIX 
 
 that he utterly reprobated. His copy of the History, as far 
 as he had proceeded, he put into the hands of his friend, 
 Mr. Pepys, of the Admiralty, who did not return it; but 
 as the books and manuscripts belonging to Mr. Pepys 
 passed into the possession of Magdalen College, Cambridge, 
 it was hoped it might be there preserved. The Editor 
 went to Cambridge for the purpose of seeing it ; and was 
 favoured with access to the library, and with the most 
 obliging personal attendance of the Hon. Mr. Fortescue, 
 one of the Fellows of the College ; but, after a diligent 
 search for several hours, it could not be found. 
 
 Dr. Campbell understood " The Mystery of Jesuitism " 
 to be a single volume ; but there were three published 
 in different years. The translation of the second was 
 undertaken by Mr. Evelyn at the express desire of Lord 
 Clarendon and his son, as appears by a letter of Mr. 
 Evelyn to Lord Cornbury, dated 9 February, 1664. The 
 third was translated by Dr. Tonge for Mr. Evelyn ; but a 
 fuller statement of this will be found in a note to one 
 of the entries of the Diary.* 
 
 In giving a list of his publications, the authors of the 
 "Biographia" say, "As several of these treatises were 
 printed before the author's return to England, and others 
 without his name, we must depend on the general opinion 
 of the world, and the authority of Mr. Wood for their being 
 his ; yet there is no great reason to suspect a mistake/' t 
 They add, " We know nothing of the ' Mundus Muliebris ; 
 or, the Ladies' Dressing Room unlocked/ except that it 
 has had a place in the Catalogue of our Author's Works, 
 from which therefore we have no right to remove it." J 
 
 There is no doubt of his being the author. Under 1685, 
 Mr. Evelyn, in his account of his daughter Mary, says, 
 she " put in many pretty symbols in the ' Mundus 
 
 Vol. i., p. 387. f Biog. Brit., vol. v., 2nd edit., p. 611, note E. 
 
 J Ibid. p. 624, note S.
 
 XXX INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Muliebris/ wherein is an enumeration of the immense 
 variety of the modes and ornaments belonging to the 
 sex/' 
 
 In a letter to Lord Cornbury, dated 9th February, 1664, 
 he speaks of having written a Play. 
 
 The authors of the " Biographia " remark of his resi- 
 dence abroad, that " The account, which Mr. Boyle received 
 from Mr. Evelyn,* of the method used by the Italians 
 for preserving snow in pits, is an admirable specimen of 
 that care with which he registered his discoveries, as well 
 as the curiosity which prompted him to inquire into every 
 thing worthy of notice, either natural or artificial, in the 
 countries through which he passed. It is much to be 
 regretted that a work so entertaining and instructive as 
 a History of his Travels would have been, appeared, even 
 to so indefatigable a person as he was, a task too laborious 
 for him to undertake; for, we should then have seen, in 
 a clear and true light, many things in reference to Italy 
 which are now very indistinctly and partially represented; 
 and we should also have met with much new matter never 
 touched before, and of which we shall now probably never 
 hear at all." t 
 
 What is thus said of Mr. Evelyn's travels is partly 
 supplied in the present Diary, but not so fully as could 
 be wished. That he made many observations which will 
 not be found here, appears by the above quotation from 
 Mr. Boyle ; and by an account of the manner of making 
 bread in France, which he communicated to Mr. Hough- 
 ton, a Fellow of the Royal Society, who published it in 
 some papers which he printed in 1681, and following years. 
 
 From the numerous authors who have spoken in high 
 terms of Mr. Evelyn, we will select the two following 
 notices of him. 
 
 In the " Biographia/' Dr. Campbell says, " It is certain 
 
 * Boyle's Works, vol. ii., p. 306. f Biog. Brit., vol. v., p. 610, note D.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXXI 
 
 that very few authors who have written in our language 
 deserve the character of able and agreeable writers so well 
 as Mr. Evelyn, who, though he was acquainted with most 
 sciences, and wrote upon many different subjects, yet was 
 very far, indeed the farthest of most men of his time, from 
 being a superficial writer. He had genius, he had taste, he 
 had learning ; and he knew how to give all these a proper 
 place in his works, so as never to pass for a pedant, even with 
 such as were least in love with literature, and to be justly 
 esteemed a polite author by those who knew it best." * 
 
 Horace Walpole (afterwards Earl of Orford), in his 
 Catalogue of Engravers, gives us the following admirably 
 drawn character, pp. 85, 86 : " If Mr. Evelyn had not 
 been an artist himself, as I think I can prove he was, 
 I should yet have found it difficult to deny myself the 
 pleasure of allotting him a place among the arts he loved, 
 promoted, patronised; and it would be but justice to 
 inscribe his name with due panegyric in these records, 
 as I have once or twice taken the liberty to criticise 
 him. But they are trifling blemishes compared with 
 his amiable virtues and beneficence; and it may be 
 remarked, that tVie worst I have said of him is, that he 
 knew more than he always communicated. It is no 
 unwelcome satire to say, that a man's intelligence and 
 philosophy is inexhaustible. I mean not to write his life, 
 which may be found detailed in the new edition of his 
 1 Sculptura/ in ' Collins's Baronetage/ in the ' General 
 Dictionary/ and in the new ' Biographical Dictionary ; } 
 but I must observe, that his life, which was extended to 
 eighty-six years, was a course of inquiry, study, curiosity, 
 instruction, and benevolence. The works of the Creator, 
 and the minute labours of the creature, were all objects of 
 his pursuit. He unfolded the perfection of the one, and 
 assisted the imperfection of the other. He adored from 
 
 * Bio<r. Brit., vol. v., p. 614, note I.
 
 XXX11 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 examination ; was a courtier that nattered only by inform- 
 ing his Prince, and by pointing out what was worthy of 
 him to countenance ; and really was the neighbour of the 
 Gospel, for there was no man that might not have been 
 the better for him. Whoever peruses a list of his works, 
 will subscribe to my assertion. He was one of the first 
 promoters of the Royal Society ; a patron of the ingenious 
 and the indigent ; and peculiarly serviceable to the lettered 
 world ; for, besides his writings and discoveries, he obtained 
 the Arundelian Marbles for the University of Oxford, and 
 the Arundelian Library for the Royal Society. Nor is it 
 the least part of his praise, that he, who proposed to 
 Mr. Boyle the erection of a Philosophical College for 
 retired and speculative persons, had the honesty to write 
 in defence of active life against Sir George Mackenzie's 
 ( Essay on Solitude/ He knew that retirement, in his 
 own hands, was industry and benefit to mankind ; but in 
 those of others, laziness and inutility." 
 
 His son, Mr. John Evelyn, was of Trinity College, 
 Oxford, and, when about fifteen years old, wrote that 
 elegant Greek Poem which is prefixed to the second 
 Edition of the " Sylva." He translated Rapin on Gardens, 
 in four books, written in Latin verse. His father annexed 
 the second book of this to the second edition of his "Sylva." 
 He also translated from the Greek of Plutarch the life of 
 Alexander the Great, printed in the fourth volume of 
 " Plutarch's Lives, by several Hands ; " and from the 
 French, the History of the Grand Viziers Mahomet and 
 Achmet Coprogli. There are several poems of his, of 
 which some are printed in " Dryden's Miscellanies," and 
 more in " Nicols's Collection of Poems." 
 
 In December, 1688, he was presented to the Prince of 
 Orange, at Abington, by Colonel Sidney and Colonel 
 Berkley; and was one of the volunteers in Lord Lovelace's 
 troop, when his lordship secured Oxford for the Prince.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXX111 
 
 In 1690, he purchased the place of chief clerk of the Trea- 
 sury ; but, in the next year, he was by some means removed 
 from it by Mr. Guy, who succeeded in that office. In 
 August, 1692, he was made one of the Commissioners of 
 the Revenue in Ireland, from whence he returned to 
 England in 1696, in very ill health, and died 24th March, 
 1698, in his father's lifetime. 
 
 He married Martha, daughter and coheir of Richard 
 Spencer, Esq., a Turkey merchant, by whom he had 
 two sons and three daughters. The eldest son, and the 
 eldest daughter, Martha-Mary, and youngest daughter, 
 Jane, died infants. The surviving daughter, Elizabeth, 
 married Simon Harcourt, Esq., son of the Lord Chancel- 
 lor Harcourt. September 18th, 1705, the son John, who 
 had succeeded his grandfather at Wotton, married Anne, 
 daughter of Edward Boscawen, Esq., of the county of 
 Cornwall; and, by letters patent, dated 30 July, 1713, 
 was created a Baronet. He inherited the virtue and the 
 taste for learning, as well as the patrimony, of his ances- 
 tors; and lived at Wotton universally loved and respected. 
 He built a library there, forty-five feet long, fourteen wide, 
 and as many high, for the reception of the large and 
 curious collection of books made by his grandfather, father, 
 and himself; and where they now remain. He was a Fellow 
 of the Royal Society, was long the first Commissioner of 
 the Customs, and died 15th July, 1763, in the eighty- 
 second year of his age. 
 
 By his lady, who died before him, he had several 
 children, and was succeeded by John the eldest, who 
 married Mary, daughter of Hugh Boscawen, Viscount Fal- 
 mouth, and died llth June, 1767, in the 61st year of his 
 age. He was Clerk of the Green Cloth to Frederick Prince 
 of Wales, father of George III., and to that King when 
 Prince of Wales, and after he came to the Crown. He 
 represented the Borough of Helston in several Parliaments,
 
 XXXIV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and to the time of his death, He had only one son, 
 Frederick, who succeeded to the title and estate, and 
 three daughters. Of the daughters, two died unmarried; 
 the third, Augusta, married the Rev. Dr. Henry Jenkin, 
 Rector of Wotton and Abinger; but she died without 
 issue. Sir Frederick was in the army in the early part of 
 his life ; and was in Elliot's Light-Horse, when that 
 regiment so highly distinguished themselves in the famous 
 Battle of Minden, in Germany, in 1759. He married 
 Mary, daughter of William Turton, Esq. of Staffordshire, 
 and, dying without issue in 1812, he left his estate to his 
 Lady. She lived at Wotton, where she fully maintained 
 the honour and great respect which had so long attended 
 the family there. Her taste for botany was displayed in 
 her .garden and greenhouse, where she had a curious 
 collection of exotic, as well as native, shrubs and flowers. 
 The library shared her attention. Besides making addi- 
 tions to it, she had a complete Catalogue arranged by 
 Mr. Upcott, of the London Institution. 
 
 This lady by her will returned the estate to the family, 
 devising it to John Evelyn, Esq., descended from George 
 Evelyn, the purchaser of the estate in 1579. 
 
 The following are epitaphs to the memory of the writer 
 of this Diary, and part of his family, interred in the 
 Dormitory adjoining Wotton Church. 
 
 For his Grandfather, who settled at Wotton, on an 
 alabaster monument, written by Dr. Comber, Master of 
 Trinity College, Cambridge, and afterwards Dean of 
 
 Durham : 
 
 D. 0. M. S. 
 
 Georgio Eveline, Arm. non minus 
 Vitse et Morum exemplo, quam dignitate
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXXV 
 
 conspicuo, quern plenum annis (inoffensse 
 
 vitse decurso itinere, quale sibi opta- 
 
 verint Magni illi, qui inanem strepitum 
 
 tranquillitati posthabendum putarunt) 
 
 Mors immatura abstulit, namq ; 
 rebus omnibus, Deo omnia bcne vertente, 
 
 affluens, quibus vita beata efficitur, 
 repetito non infelici delectu matrimo- 
 
 nio, Liberos ad filios 16 octoque 
 filias, pene octogenarius decessit senex : 
 
 Parent! charissimo, et bene merenti 
 Richardus Evelinus, filiorum natu minimus, 
 
 Monumentum cum carmine moerens 
 
 posuit, quod non tarn Patris vivo hominum 
 
 ore victuri, quam proprioe Pietatis 
 
 testimonium esset. 
 
 Obiit 30 die Mali, An. Com. 1603. 
 
 JEtatis suse 73. 
 
 On another alabaster monument, are the figures of a 
 man and his wife kneeling, and five children; below is 
 this inscription : 
 
 Epitaphium 
 
 vere generosi, et prsenobilis Viri, D. Richardi 
 
 Evelini armigeri, in agro Surriensi, hie 
 
 subter in ternt conditi. 
 
 Quern Pietas, Probitas, claris natalibus ortura, 
 
 Prolis amor dulcis, Vitaq. labe carens, 
 Religionis opus, quern Vota Precesq; suorum, 
 
 Et morum niveus candor, aperta manus, 
 Reddebant olim charum patriseq; suisq; 
 
 Vertitur in cineres hac Evelinus humo. 
 Lector, ne doleas, cum sis mortalis, abito, 
 
 Et sortis non sis immemor ipse tuse. 
 
 Obiit Quinquagenarius 
 corporis statu vegeto, vicesimo die Decembris anno
 
 XXXVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Salutls humanae 
 
 1640, Liberorum quiuq. Pater, 
 
 relictis quatuor superstitibus, tribus 
 
 scil. filiis cum 
 
 unica tantum filia. 
 
 Festinantes sequimur, 
 
 On another monument, fixed to the same wall : 
 
 To 
 
 the precious memory of 
 
 ELLEN EVELYN, 
 
 the dearly beloved wife of Richard Evelyn, Esq. 
 a rare example of Piety, Loyalty, Prudence, and Charity, 
 
 a happy Mother of five Children, 
 
 George, John, Richard, Elizabeth, and Jane ; 
 
 who in the 37th year of her age, 
 
 the 22d of her marriage, 
 and the 1635th of Man's Redemption, 
 
 put on Immortality, 
 
 leaving her name as a monument of her perfections, 
 and her Perfections as a precedent for imitation. 
 Of her great worth to know, who seeketh more, 
 Must mount to Heaven, where she is gone before. 
 
 On a white marble, covering a tomb shaped like a coffin 
 raised about three feet above the floor, is inscribed : 
 
 Here lies the Body 
 
 of JOHN EVELYN, Esq. 
 
 of this place, second son 
 
 of Richard Evelyn, Esq. ; 
 
 who having serv'd the Publick 
 
 in several employments, of which that 
 
 of Commissioner of the Privy-Seal in the 
 
 Reign of King James the 2d was most 
 
 honourable, and perpetuated his fame 
 
 by far more lasting monuments than 
 
 those of Stone or Brass, his learned
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXXV11 
 
 and usefull Works, fell asleep the 27 day 
 of February 1705-6, being the 86 year 
 
 of his age, in full hope of a glorious 
 
 Resurrection, thro' Faith in Jesus Christ. 
 
 Living in an age of extraordinary 
 
 Events and Revolutions, he learnt 
 
 (as himself asserted) this Truth, 
 
 which pursuant to his intention 
 
 is here declared 
 
 That all is vanity which is not honest, 
 and that there is no solid wisdom 
 
 but in real Piety. 
 Of five Sons and three Daughters 
 born to him from his most 
 vertuous and excellent Wife, 
 Mary, sole daughter and heiress 
 of Sir Rich. Browne of Sayes 
 Court near Deptford in Kent, 
 onely one daughter, Susanna, 
 married to William Draper 
 Esq., of Adscomb in this 
 County, survived him ; the 
 two others dying in the 
 flower of their age, and 
 all the Sons very young ex- 
 cept one named John, who 
 deceased 24 March, 1698-9, 
 in the 45 year of his age, 
 leaving one son, John, and 
 one daughter, Elizabeth. 
 
 On another monument at the head of, and like the 
 former : 
 
 MAKY EVELYN, 
 the best Daughter, Wife, 
 
 and Mother, 
 
 the most accomplished of women, 
 beloved, esteemed, admired,
 
 XXXV111 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and regretted, by all who knew her, 
 
 is deposited in this stone coffin, 
 
 according to her own desire, as near 
 
 as could be to her dear Husband 
 
 JOHN EVELYN, 
 with whom she lived almost 
 
 Threescore years, 
 
 and survived not quite three, dying 
 
 at London, the 9 of Feb. 1708-9, 
 
 in the 74th year of her age. 
 
 In the Church of St. Nicholas, Deptford, on the east- 
 wall, to the south of the altar, is a marble mural tablet, 
 with the following inscription to the two children of Mr. 
 Evelyn, whose early loss he has so feelingly lamented in 
 
 his Diary : 
 
 R. EVELYN. I. F. 
 
 Quiescit hoc sub marmore, 
 Una quiescit quicquid est amabile, 
 Patres quod optent, aut quod orbi lugeant ; 
 Genas decentes non, ut ante, risus 
 
 Lepore condit amplius ; 
 Morurn venustas, quanta paucis contigit, 
 
 Desideratur omnibus. 
 
 Linguae, Latina, Gallica, 
 Quas imbibit cum lacte materno, taceut. 
 Tentarat Artes, artiumque principiis 
 
 Pietatis elementa hauserat. 
 Libris inhsesit improbo labore 
 
 Ut sola mors divelleret. 
 Quod indoles, quod disciplina, quod labor 
 
 Possint, ab uno disceres. 
 Puer stupendus, qualis hie esset senex 
 Si fata vitro submiuistrassent iter ! 
 
 Sed aliter est visum Deo : 
 Correptus ille febricula levi jacet, 
 Jacent tot una spes Parentum !
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXXIX 
 
 Vixit Ann. V. M. V. Ill super D. 
 
 Eheu ! delicias breves. 
 Quicquid placet mortale, non placet diu, 
 Quicquid placet mortale, ne placeat nimis. 
 
 MARY EVELYN, 
 
 eldest daughter of John Evelyn, 
 and Mary his wife, borne the last day of 
 
 September 1665, att Wootton in 
 
 the County of Snrrey. A beautifull 
 
 young woman, endowed with shining 
 
 Qualities both of body and mind, infinitly 
 
 pious, the delight of her Parents and Friends. 
 
 She dyed 17 March 1685 at the 
 
 age of 19 years, 5 months, 17 dayes, 
 
 regretted by all persons of worth 
 
 that knew her value. 
 
 A tablet adjoining the foregoing, is thus inscribed : 
 
 M. S. 
 
 Neere this place are deposited y e bodys 
 
 of Sir RICHARD BROWNE of Sayes-Court in Deptford, Knt ; 
 
 Of his wife Dame Joanna Vigorus of Langham in Essex, 
 
 deceased in Nov. 1618 aged 74 years. 
 
 This Richard was younger son of an ancient family of 
 
 Hitcham in Suffolk, seated afterwards at Horsly in Essex, who 
 
 being 
 Student in the Temple, was by Robert Dudley, the great Earle of 
 
 Leicester, 
 
 taken into the service of the Crowne when he went 
 Governor of the United Netherlands, and was afterwards 
 by Queene Elizabeth made Clearke of the Greene Cloth, 
 which honorable office he also continued under King James 
 
 untill the 
 time of hia death, May 1604, aged 65 years :
 
 Xl INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Of Christopher Browne, Esq., son and heire of Sir Richard, who 
 
 deceased in March 1645, aged 70 years ; 
 
 Of Thomasin his wife, da r of Benjamin Gonson of Much Bado 
 in Essex, Esq. whose grandfather William Gonson, and father 
 
 Benjamin, 
 were successively Treasurers of the Navy to King Hen. VIII. , 
 
 to K. Ed. VI., 
 to Queene Mary, and Q. Elizabeth ; and died June 1638, aged 
 
 75 years ; 
 Of Sir Richard Browne, Knt. and Baronet, onely son of 
 
 Christopher ; 
 
 Of his wife Dame Elizabeth, daughter of Sir John Pretyman of 
 Dry-field in Glocester shire, who deceased vi Octob r 
 
 1652, aged 42 years. 
 
 This Sir Richard was Gentleman of the Privy Chamber to 
 K. Charles y e First, and Cleark of the Council of his Ma*y, and to 
 K. Charles y e Second, and (after several foraigne and honorable 
 
 employments) 
 continued Resident in the Court of France from K. Cha. the I. 
 
 and 
 from K. Char. II d to the French-Kings LEWES XIII. and 
 
 LEWES XIV. from 
 the years 1641 (the beginning of our un-natural civile-warr) 
 
 untill the happy 
 Restauration of K. Cha. y e IF 1660 ; deceased xn Feb. A 
 
 1682-3 aged 78 y rs ; 
 and (according to ancient custome) willed to be interred in this 
 
 place. 
 
 These all deceasing in the true Faith of Christ, 
 
 hope, through his merits, for a joyfull and blessed 
 
 Resurrection. X. A. P. D.
 
 DIARY 
 
 OF 
 
 JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 I WAS born (at "Wotton, in the County of Surrey,) 
 about twenty minutes past two in the morning, being on 
 Tuesday the 31st and last of October, 1620, after my 
 father had been married about seven years, * and that my 
 mother had borne him three children ; viz. two daughters 
 and one son, about the 33rd year of his age, and the 23rd 
 of my mother's. 
 
 My father, named Richard, was of a sanguine com- 
 plexion, mixed with a dash of choler: his hair inclining to 
 light, which, though exceeding thick, became hoary by 
 that time he had attained to thirty years of age ; it was 
 somewhat curled towards the extremities; his beard, 
 which he wore a little peaked, as the mode was, of a 
 brownish colour, and so continued to the last, save that 
 it was somewhat mingled with grey hairs about his 
 cheeks; which, with his countenance, were clear and 
 fresh-coloured, his eyes extraordinary quick and piercing ; 
 an ample forehead, in sum, a very well composed visage 
 and manly aspect : for the rest, he was but low of stature, 
 yet very strong. He was, for his life, so exact and 
 
 * He was married at St. Thomas's, South wark, 27th January, 1613. My 
 sister Eliza was born at nine at night, 28th November, 1614 ; Jane, at 
 four in the morning, 16th February, 1616 ; my brother George at nine 
 at night, Wednesday, 18th June, 1617 ; and my brother Richard, 9th 
 November, 1622. 
 
 VOL. I. B
 
 2 DIARY OP [TVOTTON, 
 
 temperate, that I have heard he had never been surprised 
 by excess, being ascetic and sparing. His wisdom was 
 great, and his judgment most acute ; of solid discourse, 
 affable, humble, and in nothing affected; of a thriving, 
 neat, silent, and methodical genius ; discreetly severe, yet 
 liberal upon all just occasions, both to his children, to 
 strangers, and servants; a lover of hospitality, and, in 
 brief, of a singular and Christian moderation in all his 
 actions; not illiterate, nor obscure, as having continued 
 Justice of the Peace and of the Quorum, he served his 
 country as High Sheriff, being, as I take it, the last 
 dignified with that office for Sussex and Surrey together, 
 the same year, before their separation.* He was yet a 
 studious decliner of honours and titles; being already 
 in that esteem with his country, that they could have 
 added little to him besides their burthen. He was a 
 person of that rare conversation that, upon frequent 
 recollection, and calling to mind passages of his life 
 and discourse, I could never charge him with the least 
 passion, or inadvertency. His estate was esteemed about 
 4000 per annum, well wooded, and full of timber. 
 
 My mother's name was Eleanor, f sole daughter and 
 heiress of John Standsfield, Esq., of an ancient and 
 honourable family (though now extinct) in Shropshire, 
 by his wife Eleanor Comber, of a good and well-known 
 house in Sussex. She was of proper personage, of a 
 brown complexion ; her eyes and hair of a lovely black ; 
 of constitution more inclined to a religious melancholy, 
 or pious sadness ; of a rare memory, and most exemplary 
 life ; for economy and prudence, esteemed one of the most 
 conspicuous in her country : which rendered her loss 
 much deplored both by those who knew, and such as 
 only heard of her. 
 
 Thus much, in brief, touching my parents ; nor was it 
 reasonable I should speak less of them to whom I owe 
 so much. 
 
 The place of my birth was "Wotton, in the parish of 
 Wotton, or Blackheath, in the county of Surrey, the then 
 
 * Formerly the two counties had, in general, only one sheriff, though 
 sometimes distinct ones. Ju 1637, each county had its sheriff, and so it 
 has continued ever since. 
 
 f She was born 17th November, 1598, in Sussex, near to Lewes.
 
 1620.] JOHN EVELYN. $ 
 
 mansion-house of my father, left him by my grand- 
 father, afterwards and now my eldest brother's. It is 
 situated in the most southern part of the shire; and, 
 though in a valley, yet really upon part of Leith Hill, one 
 of the most eminent in England for the prodigious pros- 
 pect to be seen from its summit,* though by few 
 observed ; from it may be discerned twelve or thirteen 
 counties, with part of the sea on the coast of Sussex, 
 in a serene day. The house is large and ancient, suitable 
 to those hospitable times, and so sweetly environed with 
 those delicious streams and venerable woods, as in the 
 judgment of strangers as well as Englishmen, it may be 
 compared to one of the most tempting and pleasant seats 
 in the nation, and most tempting for a great person 
 and a wanton purse, to render it conspicuous. It has 
 rising grounds, meadows, woods, and water, in abundance. 
 The distance from London little more than twenty 
 miles,f and yet so securely placed, as if it were one 
 hundred ; three miles from Dorking, which serves it abun- 
 dantly with provisions as well of land as sea; six from 
 Guildford, twelve from Kingston. { I "will say nothing 
 of the air, because the pre-eminence is universally given 
 to Surrey, the soil being dry and sandy ; but I should 
 speak much of the gardens, fountains, and groves that 
 adorn it, were they not as generally known to be amongst 
 the most natural, and (till this later and universal luxury 
 of the whole nation, since abounding in such expenses) 
 the most magnificent that England afforded, and which 
 indeed gave one of the first examples to that elegancy, 
 since so much in vogue and followed, for the managing 
 of their waters, and other elegancies of that nature. 
 Let me add, the contiguity of five or six manors, the 
 patronage of the livings about it, and what Themistocles 
 pronounced for none of the least advantages the good 
 neighbourhood: all which conspire here to render it an 
 honourable and handsome royalty, fit for the present 
 possessor, my worthy brother, and his noble lady, || whose 
 
 * 993 feet. 
 
 t Computed miles ; it is a little more than twenty-six measured miles. 
 
 J Eight, and fourteen. 
 
 Seven manors, two advowsons, and a chapel of ease. 
 
 || Lady Cotton, widow. 
 
 B 2
 
 4 DIARY OP [WOTTON, 
 
 constant liberality gives them title both to the place and 
 the affections of all that know them. Thus, with the 
 poet: 
 
 Nescio qu& natale solum dulcedine cunctos 
 Due-it, et immemores non sinet esse sui. 
 
 I had given me the name of my grandfather, my 
 mother's father, who, together with a sister of Sir Thomas 
 Evelyn of Long Ditton, and Mr. Comber, a near relation 
 of my mother, were my susceptors. The solemnity (yet 
 upon what accident I know not, unless some indisposition 
 in me) was performed in the dining-room by Parson 
 Higham, the present incumbent of the parish, according 
 to the forms prescribed by the then glorious Church of 
 England.* 
 
 I was now (in regard to my mother's weakness, or 
 rather custom of persons of quality) put to nurse to one 
 Peter, a neighbour's wife and tenant, of a good, comely, 
 brown, wholesome complexion, and in a most sweet place 
 towards the hills, flanked with wood and refreshed with 
 streams ; the affection to which kind of solitude I sucked 
 in with my very milk. It appears, by a note of my 
 father's, that I sucked till 17th January, 1622; or at least 
 I came not home before. 
 
 The very first thing that I can call to memory, and 
 from which time forward I began to observe, was this 
 year (1623) my youngest brother being in his nurse's 
 arms, who being then 1 two years and nine days younger 
 than myself, was the last child of my dear parents. 
 
 1624. I was not initiated into any rudiments till near 
 four years of age, and then one Frier taught us at the 
 church-porch of Wotton; and I do perfectly remember 
 the great talk and stir about II Conde Gundamar, now 
 Ambassador from Spain (for near about this time was 
 the match of our Prince with the Infanta proposed), and 
 the effects of that comet, 1618, still working in the prodi- 
 gious revolutions now beginning in Europe, especially 
 in Germany, whose sad commotions sprang from the 
 Bohemians' defection from the Emperor Matthias ; upon 
 which quarrel the Swedes broke in, giving umbrage to 
 
 * I had given me two handsome pieces of very curiously wrought and gilt 
 plate.
 
 1624-8.] JOHN EVELYN. 5 
 
 the rest of the princes, and the whole Christian world 
 cause to deplore it, as never since enjoying perfect tran- 
 quillity. 
 
 1625. I was this year (being the first of the reign of 
 King Charles) sent by my father to Lewes, in Sussex, to be 
 with my grandfather, Standsfield, with whom I passed my 
 childhood. This was the year in which the pestilence 
 was so epidemical, that there died in London 5000 
 a-week, and I well remember the strict watches and 
 examinations upon the ways as we passed; and I was 
 shortly after so dangerously sick of a fever, that (as I have 
 heard) the physicians despaired of me. 
 
 1626. My picture was drawn in oil by one Chanterell, 
 no ill painter. 
 
 1627. My grandfather, Standsfield, died this year, on 
 the 5th of February : I remember perfectly the solemnity 
 at his funeral. He was buried in the parish church of All 
 Souls, where my grandmother, his second wife, erected 
 him a pious monument. About this time, was the con- 
 secration of the Church of South Mailing, near Lewes, 
 by Dr. Field, Bishop of Oxford; one Mr. Coxhall preached, 
 who was afterwards minister; the building whereof was 
 chiefly procured by my grandfather, who having the im- 
 propriation, gave 20/. a-year out of it to* this churdh. I 
 afterwards sold the impropriation. I laid one of the 
 first stones at the building of the church. 
 
 It was not till the year 1628, that I was put to learn 
 my Latin rudiments, and to write, of one Citolin, a 
 Frenchman, in Lewes. I very well remember that 
 general muster previous to the Isle of Re's expedition, 
 and that I was one day awakened in the morning with 
 the news of the Duke of Buckingham being slain by that 
 wretch, Felton, after our disgrace before La Rochelle. 
 And I now took so extraordinary a fancy to drawing and 
 designing, that I could never after wean my inclinations 
 from it, to the expense of much precious time, which might 
 have been more advantageously employed. I was now 
 put to school to one Mr. Potts, in the Cliff, at Lewes,from 
 whom, on the 7th of January, 1630, being the day after 
 Epiphany, I went to the free-school at Southover, near the 
 town, of which one Agnes Morley had been the foundress, 
 and now Edward Snatt was the master, under whom I
 
 6 DIARY OF [LEWES, 
 
 remained till I was sent to the University.* This year, 
 my grandmother (with whom I sojourned) being married 
 to one Mr. Newton, a learned and most religious gentle- 
 man, we went from the Cliff to dwell at his house in 
 Southover. I do most perfectly remember the jubilee 
 which was universally expressed for the happy birth of 
 the Prince of Wales, 29th of May, now Charles the 
 Second, our most gracious Sovereign. 
 
 1631. There happened now an extraordinary dearth in 
 England, corn bearing an excessive price ; and, in imi- 
 tation of what I had seen my father do, I began to observe 
 matters more punctually, which I did use to set down in 
 a blank almanack. The Lord of Castlehaven's arraignment 
 for many shameful exorbitances was now all the talk, and 
 the birth of the Princess Mary, afterwards Princess of 
 Orange. 
 
 21st October, 1632. My eldest sister was married to 
 Edward Darcy, Esq., who little deserved so excellent a 
 person, a woman of so rare virtue. I was not present at 
 the nuptials ; but I was soon afterwards sent for into 
 Surrey, and my father would willingly have weaned me 
 from my fondness of my too indulgent grandmother, 
 intending to have placed me at Eton; but, not being 
 so provident for* my own benefit, and unreasonably ter- 
 rified with the report of the severe discipline there, I was 
 sent back to Lewes : which perverseness of mine I have 
 since a thousand times deplored. This was the first time 
 that ever my parents had seen all their children together 
 in prosperity. While I was now trifling at home, I saw 
 London, where I lay one night only. The next day, I 
 dined at Beddington,f where I was much delighted with 
 the gardens and curiosities. Thence, we returned to the 
 Lady Darcy's, at Sutton, thence to Wotton ; and, on the 
 16th of August following, 1633, back to Lewes. 
 
 November 3rd, 1633. This year my father was ap- 
 pointed Sheriff, the last, as I think, who served in that 
 honourable office for Surrey and Sussex, before they were 
 disjoined. He had 116 servants in liveries, every one 
 
 * Long after, Mr. Evelyn paid great respect to this gentleman, as appears 
 by his letters. 
 
 t The ancient and once magnificent seat of the noble family of the 
 Carews.
 
 1633-4.] JOHN EVELYN. 7 
 
 liveried in green satin doublets ; divers gentlemen and 
 persons of quality waited on him in the same garb and 
 habit, which at that time (when thirty or forty was the 
 usual retinue of the High Sheriff) was esteemed a great 
 matter. Nor was this out of the least vanity that my 
 father exceeded (who was one of the greatest decliners 
 of it) ; but because he could not refuse the civility of 
 his friends and relations, who voluntarily came themselves, 
 or sent in their servants. But my father was afterwards 
 most unjustly and spitefully molested by that jeering 
 judge, Kichardson,* for reprieving the execution of a 
 woman, to gratify my Lord of Lindsey, then Admiral; but 
 out of this he emerged with as much honour as trouble. 
 The king made this year his progress into Scotland, and 
 Duke James was born. 
 
 15th December, 1634. My dear sister, Darcy, departed 
 this life, being arrived to her 20th year of age ; in virtue 
 advanced beyond her years, or the merit of her husband, 
 the worst of men. She had been brought to bed the 2nd 
 of June before, but the infant died soon after her, the 
 24th of December; I was therefore sent for home the 
 second time, to celebrate the obsequies of my sister, who 
 was interred in a very honourable manner in our dormi- 
 tory joining to the parish church,f where now her monu- 
 ment stands. 
 
 1635. But my dear mother being now dangerously 
 sick, I was, on the 3rd of September following, sent for 
 to "Wotton, whom I found so far spent, that all human 
 assistance failing, she in a most heavenly manner de- 
 parted this life upon the 29th of the same month, about 
 eight in the evening of Michaelmas-day. It was a malig- 
 nant fever which took her away, about the 37th of her age, 
 and 22nd of her marriage, to our irreparable loss, and the 
 regret of all that knew her. Certain it is, that the visible 
 
 * He was made a Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1 626, and of the 
 King's Bench in 1631. There is a Monument for him in Westminster Abbey. 
 Fuller says he lived too near the time to speak fully of him. He took on 
 him to issue an order against keeping wakes on Sundays, which Laud, 
 then Bishop of Bath and Wells, took up as an infringement of the rights of 
 bishops, and got him severely reprimanded at the Council-table. He was 
 owner of Starborough Castle, in Lingfield, in Surrey. Manning and Bray's 
 Jlistory of Surrey, rol. ii. p. 345. 
 
 f Of Wotton.
 
 g DIARY OP [OXFORD 
 
 cause of her indisposition proceeded from grief upon the 
 loss of her daughter, and the infant, that followed it ; 
 and it is as certain, that when she perceived the peril 
 whereto its excess had engaged her, she strove to compose 
 herself and allay it ; but it was too late, and she was forced 
 to succumb. Therefore, summoning all her children then 
 living (I shall never forget it), she expressed herself in a 
 manner so heavenly, with instructions so pious and 
 Christian, as made us strangely sensible of the extras 
 ordinary loss then imminent ; after which, embracing every 
 one of us, she gave to each a ring with her blessing, and 
 dismissed us. Then, taking my father by the hand, she 
 recommended us to his care; and, because she was ex- 
 tremely zealous for the education of my younger brother, 
 she requested my father that he might be sent with me 
 to Lewes ; and so, having importuned him that what he 
 designed to bestow on her funeral, he would rather dis- 
 pose among the poor, she laboured to compose herself 
 for the blessed change which she now expected. There 
 was not a servant in the house whom she did not 
 expressly send for, advise, and infinitely affect with her 
 counsel : thus she continued to employ her intervals, 
 either instructing her relations, or preparing of herself. 
 
 Though her physicians, Dr. Meverell, Dr. Clement and 
 Dr. Rand, had given over all hopes of her recovery, and 
 Sir Sanders Duncombe had tried his celebrated and famous 
 powder, yet she was many days impairing, and endured 
 the sharpest conflicts of her sickness with admirable 
 patience and most Christian resignation, retaining both 
 her intellectuals and ardent affections for her dissolution, 
 to the very article of her departure. When near her dis- 
 solution, she laid her hand on every one of her children ; 
 and, taking solemn leave of my father, with elevated 
 heart and eyes, she quietly expired, and resigned her soul 
 to God. Thus ended that prudent and pious woman, in 
 the flower of her age, to the inconsolable affliction of her 
 husband, irreparable loss of her children, and universal 
 regret of all that knew her. She was interred, as near as- 
 might be, to her daughter, Darcy, the 3rd of October, at 
 night, but with no mean ceremony. 
 
 It was the 3rd of the ensuing November, after my 
 brother George was gone back to Oxford, ere I returned
 
 1637.] JOHN EVELYN. 9 
 
 to Lewes, when I made way, according to instructions 
 received of my father, for my brother Richard, who was 
 sent the 12th after. 
 
 1636. This year being extremely dry, the pestilence 
 much increased in London, and divers parts of England. 
 
 13th February, 1637. I was especially admitted (and, as 
 I remember, my other brother) into the Middle Temple, 
 London, though absent, and as yet at school. There 
 were now large contributions to the distressed Palatinates. 
 
 The 10th of December my father sent a servant to 
 bring us necessaries, and the plague beginning now to 
 cease, on the 3rd of April, 1637, I left school, where, till 
 about the last year, I had been extremely remiss in my 
 studies ; so as I went to the University rather out of 
 shame of abiding longer at school, than for any fitness, 
 as by sad experience I found ; which put me to re-learn 
 all that I had neglected, or but perfunctorily gained. 
 
 10th of May. I was admitted a Fellow-commoner of 
 Baliol College, Oxford ; and, on the 29th, I was matricu- 
 lated in the vestry of St. Mary's, where I subscribed the 
 Articles, and took the oaths ; Dr. Baily, head of St. John's, 
 being vice-chancellor, afterwards bishop. It appears by 
 a letter of my father's, that he was upon treaty with one 
 Mr. Bathurst (afterwards Doctor and President), of 
 Trinity College, who should have been my tutor ; but, lest 
 my brother's tutor, Dr. Hobbs, more zealous in his life 
 than industrious to his pupils, should receive it as an 
 affront, and especially for that Fellow-commoners in Baliol 
 were no more exempt from exercise than the meanest 
 scholars there, my father sent me thither to one Mr. 
 George Bradshaw (nomen invisum ! yet the son of an excel- 
 lent father, beneficed in Surrey).* I ever thought my 
 tutor had parts enough ; but, as his ambition made him 
 much suspected of the College, so his grudge to Dr. 
 Lawrence, the governor of it (whom he afterwards sup- 
 planted), took up so much of his time, that he seldom or 
 never had the opportunity to discharge his duty to his 
 scholars. This I perceiving, associated myself with one 
 Mr. James Thicknesse (then a young man of the founda- 
 tion, afterwards a Fellow of the house), by whose learned 
 and friendly conversation I received great advantage. At 
 
 * Rector of Ockham.
 
 10 DIARY OP [OXFORD, 
 
 my first arrival, Dr. Parkhurst was Master ; and, after his 
 decease, Dr. Lawrence, a chaplain of his Majesty's and 
 Margaret Professor, succeeded, an acute and learned per- 
 son; nor do I much reproach his severity, considering 
 that the extraordinary remissness of discipline had (till 
 his coming) much detracted from the reputation of that 
 College. 
 
 There came in my time to the College one Nathaniel 
 Conopios, out of Greece, from Cyrill, the patriarch of 
 Constantinople, who, returning many years after, was made 
 (as I understand) Bishop of Smyrna. He was the first 
 I ever saw drink coffee ; which custom came not into 
 England till thirty years after. 
 
 After I was somewhat settled there in my formalities, 
 (for then was the University exceedingly regular, under 
 the exact discipline of William Laud, Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury, then Chancellor,) I added, as benefactor to the 
 library of the College, these books, "ex dono Johannis 
 Evelyni hujus Coll. Socio-Commensalis, filii Richardi 
 Evelyni, e com. Surrice, armig r ." 
 
 Zanchii Opera, vols. 1, 2, 3. 
 
 Granado in Thomarh Aquinatem, vols. 1, 2, 3. 
 
 Novarini Electa Sacra, and Cresolii Anthologia Sacra; 
 authors, it seems, much desired by the students of 
 divinity there. 
 
 Upon the 2nd of July, being the first Sunday of the 
 month, I first received the blessed Sacrament of the Lord's 
 Supper, in the college chapel, one Mr. Cooper, a Fellow 
 of the house, preaching; and at this time was the Church 
 of England in her greatest splendour, all things decent, 
 and becoming the Peace, and the persons that governed. 
 The most of the following week I spent in visiting the 
 Colleges, and several rarities of the University, which do 
 very much affect young comers. 
 
 18th July. I accompanied my eldest brother, who 
 then quitted Oxford, into the country ; and, on the 9th of 
 August, went to visit my friends at Lewes, whence I re- 
 turned the 12th to Wotton. On the 17th of September, 
 I received the blessed Sacrament at Wotton church, and 
 23rd of October went back to Oxford. 
 
 5th November. I received again the Holy Communion 
 in our college chapel, one Prouse, a Fellow (but a mad 
 one), preaching.
 
 1638.] JOHN EVELYN. ]_]_ 
 
 December 9th. I offered at my first exercise in the Hall, 
 and answered my opponent ; and, upon the llth following, 
 declaimed in the chapel before the Master, Fellows, and 
 Scholars, according to the custom. The 15th after, I first 
 of all opposed in the Hall. 
 
 The Christmas ensuing, being at a Comedy which the 
 gentlemen of Exeter College presented to the Univer- 
 sity, and standing, for the better advantage of seeing, 
 upon a table in the Hall, which was near to another, 
 in the dark, being constrained by the extraordinary press 
 to quit my station, in leaping down to save myself I 
 dashed my right leg with such violence against the sharp 
 edge of the other board, as gave me a hurt which held 
 me in cure till almost Easter, and confined me to my 
 study. 
 
 1638. 22nd January. I would needs be admitted into 
 the dancing and vaulting schools ; of which late activity 
 one Stokes, the master, did afterwards set forth a pretty 
 book, which was published, with many witty elogies 
 before it.* 
 
 February 4th. One Mr. Warmer preached in our 
 chapel ; and, on the 25th, Mr. Wentworth, a kinsman ot 
 the Earl of Strafford; after which followed the blessed 
 Sacrament. 
 
 April 13th. My father ordered that I should begin to 
 manage my own expenses, which till then my tutor had 
 done ; at which I was much satisfied. 
 
 9th July. I went home to visit my friends, and, on 
 the 26th, with my brother and sister to Lewes, where 
 we abode till the 31st ; and thence to one Mr. Michael's, 
 of Houghton, near Arundel, where we were very well 
 treated ; and, on the 2nd of August, to Portsmouth, and 
 thence, having surveyed the fortifications (a great rarity 
 in that blessed halcyon time in England), we passed 
 
 * It having now become extremely scarce, the title of it is here given : 
 " The Vaulting Master, or the Art of Vaulting ; reduced to a method com- 
 prized under certain rules. Illustrated by examples, and now primarily 
 set forth, by Will. Stokes. Printed for Richard Davis, in Oxon, 1665. 5 ' 
 A small oblong quarto, with the author's portrait prefixed, and a number of 
 plates beautifully engraved, (most probably by Glover,) representing feats 
 of activity on horseback, that appear extraordinary ones at this time of 
 day. (From the communication of James Bindley, Esq., a gentleman whose 
 collection of scarce and valuable books is perhaps hardly to be equalled.)
 
 }2 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 into the Isle of Wight, to the house of my Lady Richards, 
 in a place called Yaverland; but we returned the following 
 day to Chichester, where, having viewed the city and fair 
 cathedral, we returned home. 
 
 About the beginning of September, I was so afflicted 
 with a quartan ague, that I could by no means get rid of 
 it till the December following. This was the fatal year 
 wherein the rebellious Scots opposed the King, upon the 
 pretence of the introduction of some new ceremonies 
 and the Book of Common Prayer, and madly began our 
 confusions, and their own destruction, too, as it proved in 
 event. 
 
 January 14th, 1639. I came back to Oxford, after my 
 tedious indisposition, and to the infinite loss of my time ; 
 and now I began to look upon the rudiments of music, 
 in which I afterwards arrived to some formal knowledge, 
 though to small perfection of hand, because I was so 
 frequently diverted with inclinations to newer trifles. 
 
 20th May. Accompanied with one Mr. J. Crafford 
 (who afterwards being my fellow-traveller in Italy, there 
 changed his religion), I took a journey of pleasure to see 
 the Somersetshire baths, Bristol, Cirencester, Malmesbury, 
 Abingdon, and divers other towns of lesser note; and 
 returned the 25th. 
 
 8th October. I went back to Oxford. 
 
 14th December. According to injunctions from the 
 Heads of Colleges, I went (amongst the rest) to the 
 Confirmation in St. Mary's, where, after sermon, the 
 Bishop of Oxford laid his hands upon us, with the usual 
 form of benediction prescribed : but this, received (I fear) 
 for the more part out of curiosity, rather than with that 
 due preparation and advice which had been requisite, 
 could not be so effectual as otherwise that admirable and 
 useful institution might have been, and as I have since 
 deplored it. 
 
 1640, January 21st. Came my brother, Richard, from 
 school, to be my chamber-fellow at the University. He 
 was admitted the next day, and matriculated the 31st. 
 
 llth April. I went to London to see the solemnity of 
 his Majesty's riding through the city in state to the short 
 Parliament, which began the 13th following, a very 
 glorious and magnificent sight, the King circled with his
 
 140.] JOHN EVELYN. 13 
 
 royal diadem and the affections of his people; but the day 
 after I returned to Wotton again, where I stayed, my 
 father's indisposition suffering great intervals, till April 
 27th, when I was sent to London to be first resident at 
 the Middle Temple ; so as my being at the University, in 
 regard of these avocations, was of very small benefit to 
 me. Upon May the 5th following, was the Parliament 
 unhappily dissolved; and, on the 20th, I returned with 
 my brother, George, to Wotton, who, on the 28th of the 
 same month, was married at Albury to Mrs. Caldwell 
 (an heiress of an ancient Leicestershire family *), where 
 part of the nuptials was celebrated. 
 
 10th June. I repaired with my brother to the Term, to 
 go into our new lodgings (that were formerly in Essex- 
 court), being a very handsome apartment just over 
 against the Hall-court, but four pair of stairs high, 
 which gave us the advantage of the fairer prospect ; but 
 did not much contribute to the love of that impolished 
 study, to which (I suppose) my father had designed 
 me, when he paid 145/. to purchase our present lives, 
 and assignments afterwards. 
 
 London, and especially the Court, were at this period in 
 frequent disorders, and great insolences were committed 
 by the abused and too happy City; in particular, the 
 Bishop of Canterbury's Palace at Lambeth was assaulted 
 by a rude rabble from South wark, my Lord Chamber- 
 lain imprisoned, and many scandalous libels and invec- 
 tives scattered about the streets, to the reproach of 
 Government, and the fermentation of our since distrac- 
 tions : so that, upon the 25th of June, I was sent for to 
 Wotton, and the 27th after, my father's indisposition 
 augmenting, by advice of the physicians, he repaired to 
 Bath. 
 
 7th July. My brother George and I, understanding the 
 peril my father was in upon a sudden attack of his in- 
 firmity, rode post from Guildford towards him, and found 
 him extraordinary weak; yet so as that, continuing his 
 course, he held out till the 8th of September, when I 
 returned home with him in his litter. 
 
 * A daughter of Daniel Caldwell, Esq., by Mary, daughter of George 
 Duncomb, Esq., of Albury. She died 15th May, 1644, and he afterwards 
 married the widow of Sir John Cotton.
 
 14 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 15th October. I went to the Temple, it being Mi- 
 chaelmas Term.* 
 
 30th. I saw his Majesty (coming from his northern 
 expedition) ride in pomp and a kind of ovation, with all 
 the marks of a happy peace, restored to the affections 
 of his people, being conducted through London with a 
 most splendid cavalcade ; and, on the 3rd November 
 following (a day never to be mentioned without a curse), 
 to that long ungrateful, foolish, and fatal Parliament, the 
 beginning of all our sorrows for twenty years after, and 
 the period of the most happy monarch in the world: 
 Quis taliafando I f 
 
 But my father being by this time entered into a dropsy, 
 an indisposition the most unsuspected, being a person so 
 exemplarily temperate, and of admirable regimen, hastened 
 me back to Wotton, December the 12th ; where, the 24th 
 following, between twelve and one o'clock at noon, departed 
 this life that excellent man and indulgent parent, retain- 
 ing his senses and piety to the last, which he most tenderly 
 expressed in blessing us, whom he now left to the world 
 and the worst of times, whilst he was taken from the evil 
 to come. 
 
 1641. It was a sad and lugubrious beginning of the 
 year, when, on the 2nd of January, 1640-1, we at night 
 followed the mourning hearse to the church at Wotton ; 
 when, after a sermon and funeral oration by the minister, 
 my father was interred near his formerly erected monu- 
 ment, and mingled with the ashes of our mother, his dear 
 wife. Thus we were bereft of both our parents in a 
 period when we most of all stood in need of their counsel 
 and assistance, especially myself, of a raw, vain, uncertain, 
 and very unwary inclination; but so it pleased God to 
 make trial of my conduct in a conjuncture of the greatest 
 and most prodigious hazard that ever the youth of England 
 saw ; and, if I did not amidst all this impeach my liberty 
 nor my virtue with the rest who made shipwreck of both, 
 it was more the infinite goodness and mercy of God than 
 the least providence or discretion of mine own, who now 
 
 * The Term then be#an in October. 
 
 f Notwithstanding this expression, it will afterwards appear, that Mr. 
 Evelyn by 110 means approved of arbitrary, or tyrannical measures.
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 15 
 
 thought of nothing but the pursuit of vanity, and the 
 confused imaginations of young men. 
 
 15th. I repaired to London to hear and see the famous 
 trial of the Earl of Strafford, Lord-Deputy of Ireland, who, 
 on the 22nd of March, had been summoned before both 
 Houses of Parliament, and now appeared in Westminster- 
 hall, which was prepared with scaffolds for the Lords and 
 Commons, who, together with the King, Queen, Prince, 
 and flower of the noblesse, were spectators and auditors of 
 the greatest malice and the greatest innocency that ever 
 met before so illustrious an assembly. It was Thomas 
 Earl of Arundel and Surrey, Earl Marshal of England, 
 who was made High Steward upon this occasion ; and the 
 sequel is too well known to need any notice of the event. 
 
 On the 27th, came over out of Holland the young 
 Prince of Orange, with a splendid equipage, to make love 
 to his Majesty's eldest daughter, the now Princess Royal. 
 
 That evening, was celebrated the pompous funeral of 
 the Duke of Richmond, who was carried in effigy, with all 
 the ensigns of that illustrious family, in an open chariot, 
 in great solemnity, through London to Westminster 
 Abbey. 
 
 On the 12th of May, I beheld on Tower-hill the fatal 
 stroke which severed the wisest head in England from the 
 shoulders of the Earl of Strafford, whose crime coming 
 under the cognizance of no human law, or statute, a new 
 one was made, not to be a precedent, but his destruction. 
 With what reluctancy the King signed the execution, 
 he has sufficiently expressed; to which he imputes his 
 own unjust suffering to such exorbitancy were things 
 arrived. 
 
 On the 24th, I returned to Wotton; and, on the 28th of 
 June, I went to London with my sister Jane, and the day 
 after sat to one Vanderborcht for my picture in oil, at 
 Arundel-house, whose servant that excellent painter was, 
 brought out of Germany when the Earl returned from 
 Vienna (whither he was sent Ambassador-extraordinary, 
 with great pomp and charge, though without any effect, 
 through the artifice of the Jesuited Spaniard, who governed 
 all in that conjuncture) . With Vanderborcht, the painter, 
 he brought over Winceslaus Hollar, the sculptor, who 
 engraved not only this unhappy Deputy's trial in West-
 
 1(5 DIARY OP. [ORATESEND, 
 
 minster-hall, but his decapitation ; as he did several other 
 historical things, then relating to the accidents happening 
 during the Rebellion in England, with great skill, besides 
 many cities, towns, and landscapes, not only of this nation, 
 but of foreign parts, and divers portraits of famous persons 
 then in being; and things designed from the best pieces 
 of the rare paintings and masters of which the Earl of 
 Arundel was possessor, purchased and collected in his 
 travels with incredible expense; so as, though Hollar's 
 were but etched in aqua-fortis, I account the collection to 
 be the most authentic and useful extant. Hollar was the 
 son of a gentleman near Prague, in Bohemia, and my very 
 good friend, perverted at last by the Jesuits at Antwerp to 
 change his religion ; a very honest, simple, well-meaning 
 man, who at last came over again into England, where he 
 died. We have the whole history of the king's reign, from 
 his trial in Westminster-hall and before, to the restoration 
 of King Charles II., represented in several sculptures, 
 with that also of Archbishop Laud, by this indefatigable 
 artist, besides innumerable sculptures in the works of 
 Dugdale, Ashmole, and other historical and useful works. 
 I am the more particular upon this for the fruit of that 
 collection, which I wish I had entire. 
 
 This picture* I presented to my sister, being at her 
 request, on my resolution to absent myself from this ill 
 face of things at home, which gave umbrage to wiser 
 than myself, that the medal was reversing, and our cala- 
 mities but yet in their infancy; so that, on the 15th 
 of July, having procured a pass at the Custom-house, 
 where I repeated my oath of allegiance, I went from 
 London to Gravesend, accompanied with one Mr. Caryll, 
 a Surrey gentleman, and our servants, where we arrived 
 by six o'clock that evening, with a purpose to take the 
 first opportunity of a passage for Holland. But the 
 wind as yet not favourable, we had time to view the 
 Block-house of that town, which answered to another 
 over against it at Tilbury, famous for the rendezvous 
 of Queen Elizabeth, in the year 1588, which we found 
 stored with twenty pieces of cannon, and other ammuni- 
 tion proportionable. On the 19th, we made a short excur- 
 sion to Rochester, and having seen the cathedral, went 
 
 His own portrait.
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. J7 
 
 to Chatham to see the Royal Sovereign, a glorious vessel 
 of burden lately built there, being for defence and orna- 
 ment, the richest that ever spread cloth before the wind.* 
 She carried an hundred brass cannon, and was 1200 tons; 
 a rare sailer, the work of the famous Phineas Pett, in- 
 ventor of the frigate-fashion of building, to this day 
 practised. But what is to be deplored as to this vessel is, 
 that it cost his Majesty the affections of his subjects, 
 perverted by the malcontent great ones, who took occasion 
 to quarrel for his having raised a very slight tax for the 
 building of this, and equipping the rest of the navy with- 
 out an act of Parliament ; though, by the suffrages of the 
 major part of the Judges, the King might legally do in 
 times of imminent danger, of which his Majesty was best 
 apprised. But this not satisfying a jealous party, it was 
 condemned as unprecedential, and not justifiable as to the 
 Royal prerogative; and, accordingly, the Judges were 
 removed out of their places, fined, and imprisoned. 
 
 "We returned again this evening, and on the 21st em- 
 barked in a Dutch frigate, bound for Flushing, convoyed 
 and accompanied by five other stout vessels, whereof one 
 was a man-of-war. The next day, at noon, we landed at 
 Flushing. 
 
 Being desirous to overtake the Leagure,t which was 
 then before Genep,J ere the summer should be too far 
 spent, we went this evening from Flushing to Middleburg, 
 another fine town in this island, to De Vere, whence the 
 most ancient and illustrious Earls of Oxford derive their 
 family, who have spent so much blood in assisting the 
 state during their wars. From De Vere we passed over 
 many towns, houses, and ruins of demolished suburbs, &c., 
 which have formerly been swallowed up by the sea; at 
 what time no less than eight of those islands had been 
 irrecoverably lost. 
 
 Accidentally burnt at Chatham, in 1696. 
 
 f Mr. Evelyn means by this expression, to be in time to witness the 
 siege, &c. 
 
 On the Waal, a place which, having been greatly strengthened by the 
 Cardinal Infante D. Fernando, in 1635, was at this time besieged by the 
 French and Dutch. There is a full account of the siege hi the great work 
 of Aitzema, a man who with extraordinary patience compiled materials 
 for the history of the United Provinces, during the greater part of the 
 seventeenth century. One of his brothers was mortally wounded at this siege. 
 
 VOL. I. C
 
 13 DIARY OP [HAGUE, 
 
 The next day, we arrived at Dort, the first town of 
 Holland, furnished with all German commodities, and 
 especially Rhenish wines and timber. It hath almost at 
 the extremity a very spacious and venerable church ; a 
 stately senate-house, wherein was holden that famous 
 synod against the Armmians in 1618, and in that hall 
 hangeth a picture of The Passion, an exceeding rare and 
 much-esteemed piece. 
 
 Prom Dort, being desirous to hasten towards the army, 
 I took waggon this afternoon to Rotterdam, whither we 
 were hurried in less than an hour, though it be ten miles 
 distant ; so furiously do these foremen drive. I went first 
 to visit the great church, the Doole, the Bourse, and the 
 public statue of the learned Erasmus, of brass. They 
 showed us his house, or rather the mean cottage, wherein 
 he was born, over which there are extant these lines, in 
 capital letters : 
 
 JSDIBUS HIS ORTUS, MUNDUM DECORAVIT ERASMUS 
 ARTIBUS, INGENIO, RELIGIONS, FIDE. 
 
 The 26th, I passed by a straight and commodious river 
 through Delft to the Hague; in which journey I observed 
 divers leprous poor creatures dwelling in solitary huts on 
 the brink of the water, and permitted to ask the charity 
 of passengers, which is conveyed to them in a floating box 
 that they cast out. 
 
 Arrived at the Hague, I went first to the Queen of 
 Bohemia's Court, where I had the honour to kiss her 
 Majesty's hand, and several of the Princesses' her daugh- 
 ters. Prince Maurice was also there, newly come out of 
 Germany, and my Lord Pinch, not long before fled out 
 of England from the fury of the Parliament. It was a 
 fasting-day with the Queen for the unfortunate death of 
 her husband, and the presence-chamber had been hung 
 with black velvet ever since his decease. 
 
 The 28th I Avent to Leyden ; and the 29th to Utrecht, 
 being thirty English miles distant, (as they reckon by 
 hours). It was now Kermas, or a fair, in this town, the 
 streets swarming with boors and rudeness, so that early 
 the next morning, having visited the ancient Bishop's 
 court, and the two famous churches, I satisfied my curiosity 
 till my return, and better leisure. We then came to
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 19 
 
 Rynen, where the Queen of Bohemia hath a neat and 
 well-built palace, or country-house, after the Italian man- 
 ner, as I remember; and so, crossing the Rhine, upon 
 which this villa is situated, lodged that night in a coun- 
 tryman's house. The 31st to Nimeguen: and on the 
 2nd of August we arrived at the Leagure, where was then 
 the whole army encamped about Genep, a very strong 
 castle situated on the river Waal ; but, being taken four 
 or five days before, we had only a sight of the demolitions. 
 The next Sunday was the thanksgiving sermons per- 
 formed in Colonel Goring* s regiment (eldest son of the since 
 Earl of Norwich) by Mr. Goffe, his chaplain (now turned 
 Roman, and father-confessor to 'the Queen-mother) . The 
 evening was spent in firing cannon, and other expressions 
 of military triumphs. 
 
 Now, according to the compliment, I was received a 
 volunteer in the company of Captain Apsley, of whose 
 Captain-lieutenant, Honywood, (Apsley being absent,) I 
 received many civilities. 
 
 3rd August, at night, we rode about the lines of circum- 
 vallation, the general being then in the field. The next 
 day, I was accommodated with a very spacious and com- 
 modious tent for my lodging, as before I was with a horse, 
 which I had at command, and a hut, which during the 
 excessive heats was a great convenience ; for the sun 
 piercing the canvass of the tent, it \ras during the day 
 unsufferable, and at night not seldom infested with mists 
 and fog, which ascended from the river. 
 
 6th . As the turn came about, we were ordered 
 to watch on a horn- work near our quarters, and trail a 
 pike, being the next morning relieved by a company of 
 French. This was our continual duty till the castle was 
 re-fortified, and all danger of quitting that station secured; 
 whence I went to see a Convent of Franciscan Friars, not 
 far from our quarters, where we found both the chapel and 
 refectory full, crowded with the goods of such poor people 
 as at the approach of the army had fled with them thither 
 for sanctuary. On the day following, I went to view all 
 the trenches, approaches, and mines of the besiegers ; and, 
 in particular, I took special notice of the wheel-bridge, 
 which engine his Excellency had made to run over the 
 moat when they stormed the castle, as it is since described 
 
 c2
 
 20 DIARY OF [ROTTERDAM, 
 
 (with all the other particulars of this siege) by the author 
 of " Hollandia Illustrata." The walls and ramparts of 
 earth, which a mine had broken and crumbled, were of 
 prodigious thickness. 
 
 Upon the 8th, I dined in the horse-quarters with Sir 
 Robert Stone and his lady, Sir William Stradling, and 
 divers cavaliers, where there was very good cheer, but hot 
 service for a young drinker, as then I was ; so that being 
 pretty well satisfied with the confusion of armies and 
 sieges (if such that of the United Provinces may be called,, 
 where their quarters and encampments are so admirably 
 regular, and orders so exactly observed, as few cities, the 
 best governed in time of peace, exceed it for all con- 
 veniences), I took my leave of the Leagure and Camerades; 
 and, on the 12th of August, I embarked on the Waal, in 
 company with three grave divines, who entertained us a 
 great part of our passage with a long dispute concerning 
 the lawfulness of church-music. We now sailed by Teil,. 
 where we landed some of our freight, and about five 
 o'clock we touched at a pretty town named Bommell, that 
 had divers English in garrison. It stands upon Contribu- 
 tion-land, which subjects the environs to the Spanish 
 incursions. We sailed also by an exceeding strong fort 
 called Lovestein,* famous for the escape of the learned 
 Hugo Grotius, who, being in durance as a capital offender, 
 as was the unhappy Barneveldt, by the stratagem of his 
 lady, was conveyed in a trunk supposed to be filled with 
 books only. We lay at Gorcum, a very strong and con- 
 siderable frontier. 
 
 13th. We arrived late at Rotterdam, where was their 
 annual mart or fair, so furnished with pictures, (especially 
 landscapes and drolleries, as they call those clownish repre- 
 sentations,) that I was amazed. Some of these I bought, 
 and sent into England. The reason of this store of pictures, 
 and their cheapness, proceeds from their want of land to 
 employ their stock, so that it is an ordinary thing to find 
 a common farmer lay out two or three thousand pounds 
 in this commodity. Their houses are full of them, and 
 they vend them at their fairs to very great gains. Here I 
 first saw an elephant, who was extremely well disciplined 
 and obedient. It was a beast of a monstrous size, yet as 
 
 * The appellation of ft well-known party in Holland.
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 21 
 
 flexible and nimble in the joints, contrary to the vulgar 
 tradition, as could be imagined from so prodigious a bulk 
 and strange fabric; but I most of all admired the dexterity 
 and strength of its proboscis, on which it was able to sup- 
 port two or three men, and by which it took and reached 
 whatever was offered to it ; its teeth were but short, being 
 a female, and not old. I was also shown a pelican, or ono- 
 cratulas of Pliny, with its large gullets, in which he kept his 
 reserve of fish : the plumage was white, legs red, flat, and 
 film-footed : likewise a cock with four legs, two rumps 
 and vents ; also a hen which had two large spurs growing 
 out of her sides, penetrating the feathers of her wings. 
 
 17th . I passed again through Delft, and visited 
 the church in which was the monument of Prince William 
 of Nassau, the first of the Williams, and saviour (as they 
 call him) of their liberty, which cost him his life by a 
 vile assassination. It is a piece of rare art, consisting of 
 several figures, as big as the life, in copper. There is in the 
 same place a magnificent tomb of his son and successor, 
 Maurice. The Senate-house hath a very stately portico, 
 supported with choice columns of black marble, as I 
 remember, of one entire stone. Within, there hangs a 
 weighty vessel of wood, not unlike a butter-churn, which 
 the adventurous woman that hath two husbands at one 
 time is to wear on her shoulders, her head peeping out at 
 the top only, and so led about the town, as a penance for 
 her incontinence. From hence, we went the next day to 
 Hyswick, a stately country-house of the Prince of Orange, 
 for nothing more remarkable than the delicious walks 
 planted with lime trees, and the modern paintings within. 
 
 19th . We returned to the Hague, and went to 
 visit the Hoff, or Prince's Court, with the adjoining 
 gardens full of ornament, close walks, statues, marbles, 
 grots, fountains, and artificial music.* There is to this 
 palace a stately hall, not much inferior to ours of West- 
 minster, hung round with colours and other trophies taken 
 from the Spaniards; and the sides below are furnished 
 with shops.f Next day (the 20th) I returned to Delft, 
 thence to Rotterdam, the Hague, and Leyden, where 
 
 * As at Enstone, in Oxfordshire ; see afterwards. 
 
 f Westminster-hall used to be so in Term-time, and the sitting of Par- 
 liament, in the beginning of the reign of George III.
 
 22 DIARY OP [AMSTERDAM, 
 
 immediately I mounted a waggon, which that night, late 
 as it was, brought us to Haerlem. About seven in the 
 morning, after I came to Amsterdam, where being pro- 
 vided with a lodging, the first thing I went to see was a 
 Synagogue of the Jews (being Saturday), whose ceremo- 
 nies, ornaments, lamps, law, and schools, afforded matter 
 for my contemplation. The women were secluded from 
 the men, being seated in galleries above, shut with lattices, 
 having their heads muffled with linen, after a fantastical 
 and somewhat extraordinary fashion ; the men, wearing a 
 large calico mantle, yellow coloured, over their hats, all 
 the while waving their bodies, whilst at their devotions. 
 From thence, I went to a place without the town, called 
 Overkirk, where they have a spacious field assigned them 
 to bury their dead, full of sepulchres with Hebraic inscrip- 
 tions, some of them stately and costly. Looking through 
 one of these monuments, where the stones were disjointed, 
 I perceived divers books and papers lie about a corpse ; for 
 it seems, when any learned Rabbi dies, they bury some of 
 his books with him. With the help of a stick, I raked out 
 several, written in Hebrew characters, but much impaired. 
 As we returned, we stepped in to see the Spin-house, a 
 kind of bridewell, where incorrigible and lewd women are 
 kept in discipline and labour, but all neat. We were 
 showed an hospital for poor travellers and pilgrims, built 
 by Queen Elizabeth of England ; and another maintained 
 by the city. 
 
 The State or Senate-house of this town, if the design be 
 perfected, will be one of the most costly and magnificent 
 pieces of architecture in Europe, especially for the materials 
 and the carvings. In the Doole is painted, on a very large 
 table, the bust of Marie de Medicis, supported by four royal 
 diadems, the work of one Vanderdall, who hath set his name 
 thereon, 1st September, 1638. 
 
 On Sunday, I heard an English sermon at the Presby- 
 terian congregation, where they had chalked upon a slate 
 the psalms that were to be sung, so that all the congre- 
 gation might see it without the bidding of a clerk. I was- 
 told, that after such an age no minister was permitted to 
 preach, but had his maintenance continued during life. 
 
 I purposely changed my lodgings, being desirous ta 
 converse with the sectaries that swarmed in this city, out
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 23 
 
 of whose spawn came those almost innumerable broods in 
 England afterwards. It was at a Brownist's house, where 
 we had an extraordinary good table. There was in pension 
 with us my Lord Keeper, Finch, and one Sir J. Fotherbee. 
 Here I also found an English Carmelite, who was going 
 through Germany with an Irish gentleman. I now went 
 to see the Weese-house, a foundation like our Charter- 
 house, for the education of decayed persons, orphans, and 
 poor children, where they are taught several occupations. 
 The girls are so well brought up to housewifery, that men 
 of good worth, who seek that chiefly in a woman, fre- 
 quently take then 1 wives from this hospital. Thence to the 
 Hasp-house, where the lusty knaves are compelled to work; 
 and the rasping - of brasil and logwood for the dyers is very 
 hard labour. To the Dool-house, for madmen and fools. 
 But none did I so much admire, as an hospital for their 
 lame and decrepit soldiers and seamen, where the accom- 
 modations are very great, the building answerable; and, 
 indeed, for the like public charities the provisions are 
 admirable in this country, where, as no idle vagabonds are 
 suffered (as in England they are), there is hardly a child 
 of four or five years old, but they find some employment 
 for it. 
 
 It was on a Sunday morning that I went to the Bourse, 
 or Exchange, after their sermons were ended, to see the 
 Dog-market, which lasts till two in the afternoon, in this 
 place of convention of merchants from all parts of the 
 world : the building is not comparable to that of London, 
 built by that worthy citizen, Sir Thomas Gresham, yet in 
 one respect exceeding it, that vessels of considerable bur- 
 then ride at the very quay contiguous to it ; and indeed it 
 is by extraordinary industry that as well this city as gene- 
 rally all the towns of Holland, are so accommodated with 
 graffs, cuts, sluices, moles, and rivers, made by hand, that 
 nothing is more frequent, than to see a whole navy, 
 belonging to this mercantile people, riding at anchor 
 before their very doors; and yet their streets even, straight, 
 and well paved, the houses so uniform and planted with 
 lime trees, as nothing can be more beautiful. 
 
 The next day, we were entertained at a kind of tavern, 
 called the Briloft, appertaining to a rich Anabaptist, where, 
 in the upper rooms of the house, were divers pretty water-
 
 24 DIARY OF [AMSTERDAM, 
 
 works, rising 108 feet from the ground. Here were many 
 quaint devices, fountains, artificial music, noises of beasts, 
 and chirping of birds ; but what pleased me most was a 
 large pendant candlestick, branching into several sockets, 
 furnished all with ordinary candles to appearance, out of 
 the wicks spouting out streams of water, instead of flames. 
 This seemed then and was a rarity, before the philosophy 
 of compressed air made it intelligible. There was like- 
 wise a cylinder that entertained the company with a 
 variety of chimes, the hammers striking upon the brims of 
 porcelain dishes, suited to the tones and notes, without 
 cracking any of them. Many other water-works were 
 shown. 
 
 The Reiser's, or Emperor's Graft, which is an ample 
 and long street, appearing like a city in a forest ; the lime 
 trees planted just before each house, and at the margin of 
 that goodly aqueduct so curiously wharfed with Klincard 
 brick, which likewise paves the streets, than which nothing 
 can be more useful and neat. This part of Amsterdam is 
 built and gained upon the main sea, supported by piles at 
 an immense charge, and fitted for the most busy concourse 
 of traffickers and people of commerce beyond any place, or 
 mart, in the world. Nor must I forget the port of entrance 
 into and issue of this town, composed of very magnificent 
 pieces of architecture, some of the ancient and best man- 
 ner ; as are divers churches. 
 
 The turrets, or steeples, are adorned after a particular 
 manner and invention ; the chimes of bells are so rarely 
 managed, that being curious to know whether the motion 
 was from any engine, I went up to that of St. Nicholas, 
 where I found one who played all sorts of compositions 
 from the tablature before him, as if he had fingered an 
 organ; for so were the hammers fastened with wires to 
 several keys put into a frame twenty feet below the bells, 
 upon which (by help of a wooden instrument, not much 
 unlike a weaver's shuttle, that guarded his hand) he struck 
 on the keys and played to admiration: all this while, 
 through the clattering of the wires, din of the too nearly 
 sounding bells, and noise that his wooden gloves made, the 
 confusion was so great, that it was impossible for the 
 musician, or any that stood near him, to hear any thing 
 himself; yet, to those at a distance, and especially in the
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 25 
 
 streets, the harmony and the time were the most exact and 
 agreeable. 
 
 The south church is richly paved with black and white 
 marble, the west is a new fabric ; and generally all the 
 churches in Holland are furnished with organs, lamps, and 
 monuments, carefully preserved from the fury and impiety 
 of popular reformers, whose zeal has foolishly transported 
 them in other places rather to act like madmen than 
 religious. 
 
 Upon St. Bartholomew's day, I went amongst the book- 
 sellers, and visited the famous Hondius and Bleaw's shop, 
 to buy some maps, atlases, and other works of that kind. 
 At another shop, I furnished myself with some shells and 
 Indian curiosities ; and so, towards the end of August, I 
 returned again to Haerlem by the river, ten miles in 
 length, straight as a line, and of competent breadth for 
 ships to sail by one another. They showed us a cottage 
 where, they told us, dwelt a woman who had been married 
 to her twenty-fifth husband, and being now a widow, was 
 prohibited to marry in future ; yet it could not be proved 
 that she had ever made away with any of her husbands, 
 though the suspicion had brought her divers times to 
 trouble. 
 
 Haerlem is a very delicate town, and hath one of the 
 fairest churches of the Gothic design I had ever seen. 
 There hang in the steeple, which is very high, two silver 
 bells, said to have been brought from Damietta, in Egypt, 
 by an Earl of Holland, in memory of whose success they 
 are rung out every evening. In the nave, hang the 
 goodliest branches of brass for tapers that I have seen, 
 esteemed of great value for the curiosity of the work- 
 manship ; also a fair pair of organs, which I could not 
 find they made use of in divine service, or so much as to 
 assist them in singing psalms, but only for show, and 
 to recreate the people before and after their devotions, 
 whilst the burgomasters were walking and conferring 
 about their affairs. Near the west window hang two 
 models of ships, completely equipped, in memory of that 
 invention of saws under their keels, with which they cut 
 through the chain of booms, which barred the port of 
 Damietta. Having visited this church, the fish-market, 
 and made some inquiry about the printing-house, the
 
 26 DIARY OF [LEYDEN, 
 
 invention whereof is said to have been in this town, I 
 returned to Ley den. 
 
 At Leyden, I was carried up to the castle, or Pyrgus, 
 built on a very steep artificial mount, cast up (as reported) 
 by Hengist the Saxon, on his return out of England, 
 as a place to retire to, in case of any sudden inundations. 
 
 The churches are many and fair ; in one of them lies 
 buried the learned and illustrious Joseph Scaliger, with- 
 out any extraordinary inscription, Avho, having left the 
 world a monument of his worth more lasting than mar- 
 ble, needed nothing more than his own name; which I 
 think is all engraven on his sepulchre. He left his library 
 to this University. 
 
 28th . I went to see the college and schools, 
 
 which are nothing extraordinary, and was complimented 
 with a matricula by the maynificus Professor, who first in 
 Latin demanded of me where my lodging in the town was, 
 my name, age, birth, and to what Faculty I addicted myself; 
 then, recording my answers in a book, he administered an 
 oath to me that I should observe the statutes and orders 
 of the University whilst I stayed, and then delivered me 
 a ticket, by virtue whereof I was made excise-free; for 
 all which worthy privileges, and the pains of writing, he 
 accepted of a rix-dollar. 
 
 Here was now the famous Dan. Heinsius, whom I so 
 longed to see, as well as the no less famous printer, 
 Elzevir's printing-house and shop, renowned for the 
 politeness of the character and editions of what he has 
 published through Europe. Hence to the physic-garden, 
 well stored with exotic plants, if the catalogue presented 
 to me by the gardener be a faithful register. 
 
 But, amongst all the rarities of this place, I was much 
 pleased with a sight of their anatomy-school, theatre, and 
 repository adjoining, which is well furnished with natural 
 curiosities ; skeletons from the whale and elephant to the 
 fly and spider, which last is a very delicate piece of art; 
 to see how the bones (if I may so call them of so tender 
 an insect) could be separated from the mucilaginous parts 
 of that minute animal. Amongst a great variety of other 
 things, I was shown the knife newly taken out pf a 
 jlrunken Dutchman's guts, by an incision in his side, after 
 it had slipped from his fingers into his stomach. The
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 27 
 
 pictures of the chirurgeon and his patient, both living, 
 were there. 
 
 There is without the town a fair Mall, curiously planted. 
 
 Returning to my lodging, I was shewed the statue, cut 
 in stone, of the happy monk, whom they report to have 
 been the first inventor of typography, set over the door ; 
 but this is much controverted by others who strive for 
 the glory of it, besides John Guttemburgh. 
 
 I was brought acquainted Avith a Burgundian Jew, who 
 had married an apostate Kentish woman. I asked him 
 divers questions ; he told me, amongst other things, that 
 the World should never end, that our souls transmigrated, 
 and that even those of the most holy persons did penance 
 in the bodies of brutes after death, and so he interpreted 
 the banishment and savage life of Nebuchadnezzar ; that 
 all the Jews should rise again, and be led to Jerusalem ; 
 that the Romans only were the occasion of our Saviour's 
 death, whom he affirmed (as the Turks do) to be a great 
 prophet, but not the Messiah. He shewed me several 
 books of their devotion, which he had translated into 
 English, for the instruction of his wife; he told me that 
 when the Messiah came, all the ships, barks, and vessels 
 of Holland should, by the power of certain strange whirl- 
 winds, be loosed from their anchors, and transported in a 
 moment to all the desolate ports and havens throughout 
 the world, wherever the dispersion was, to convey their 
 brethren and tribes to the Holy City; with other such 
 like stuff. He was a merry drunken fellow, but would by 
 no means handle any money (for something I purchased 
 of him), it being Saturday ; but desired me to leave it in 
 the window, meaning to receive it on Sunday morning. 
 
 1st September. I went to Delft and Rotterdam, and 
 two days after back to the Hague, to bespeak a suit of 
 horseman's armour, which I caused to be made to fit me. 
 I now rode out of town to see the monument of the woman, 
 pretended to have been a Countess of Holland, reported 
 to have had as many children at one birth, as there are 
 days in the year. The basins were hung up in which they 
 were baptized, together with a large description of the 
 matter-of-fact in a frame of carved work, in the church of 
 Lysdun, a desolate place. As I returned, I diverted to 
 see one of the prince's Palaces, called the Hoff Van
 
 28 DIARY OF [DORT, 
 
 Hounslers Dyck, a very fair cloistered and quadrangular 
 building. The gallery is prettily painted with several 
 huntings, and at one end a Gordian knot, with rustical 
 instruments so artificially represented, as to deceive an 
 accurate eye to distinguish it from actual relievo. The 
 ceiling of the staircase is painted with the Rape of Gany- 
 mede, and other pendent figures, the work of F. Coven- 
 berg, of whose hand I bought an excellent drollery, which 
 I afterwards parted with to my brother George of Wotton, 
 where it now hangs.* To this palace join a fair garden 
 and park, curiously planted with limes. 
 
 8th. Returned to Rotterdam, through Delftshaven and 
 Sedan, where were at that time Colonel Goring's winter- 
 quarters. This town has heretofore been very much 
 talked of for witches. 
 
 10th. I took waggon for Dort, to be present at the re- 
 ception of the Queen-mother, Marie de Medicis, Dowager 
 of France, widow of Henry the Great, and mother to the 
 French King, Louis XIII. and the Queen of England, 
 whence she newly arrived, tossed to and fro by the various 
 fortune of her life. From this city, she designed for 
 Cologne, conducted by the Earl of Arundel and the Herr 
 Van Bredrod. At this interview, I saw the Princess of 
 Orange, and the lady her daughter, afterwards married to 
 the House of Brandenburgh. There was little remarkable 
 in this reception befitting the greatness of her person; 
 but an universal discontent, which accompanied that 
 unlucky woman wherever she went. 
 
 12th. I went towards Bois-le-Duc, where we arrived on 
 the 16th, at the time when the new citadel was advancing 
 with innumerable hands, and incomparable inventions for 
 draining off the waters out of the fens and morasses about 
 it, being by buckets, mills, cochleas, pumps, and the like ; 
 in which the Hollanders are the most expert in Europe. 
 Here were now sixteen companies and nine troops of 
 horse. They were also cutting a new river, to pass from 
 the town to a castle not far from it. Here we split our 
 skiff, falling foul upon another through negligence of the 
 master, who was fain to run aground, to our no little 
 hazard. At our arrival, a soldier conveyed us to the 
 
 * It is still there.
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 9 
 
 Governor, where our names were taken, and our persons 
 examined very strictly. 
 
 17th. I was permitted to walk the round and view the 
 works, and to visit a convent of religious women of the 
 order of St. Clara, who by the capitulation were allowed 
 to enjoy their monastery and maintenance undisturbed, at 
 the surrender of the town twelve years since, where we 
 had a collation and very civil entertainment. They had 
 a neat chapel, in which the heart of the Duke of Cleves, 
 their founder, lies inhumed under a plate of brass. 
 Within the cloister is a garden, and in the middle of it 
 an overgrown lime-tree, out of whose stem, near the 
 root, issue five upright and exceeding tall suckers, or 
 bolls, the like whereof for evenness and height I had not 
 observed. 
 
 The chief church of this city is curiously carved within 
 and without, furnished with a pair of organs, and a most 
 magnificent font of copper. 
 
 18th. I went to see that most impregnable town and 
 fort of Hysdune, where I was exceedingly obliged to one 
 Colonel Crombe, the lieutenant-governor, who would needs 
 make me accept the honour of being captain of the watch, 
 and to give the word this night. The fortification is very 
 irregular, but esteemed one of the most considerable for 
 strength and situation in the Netherlands. We departed 
 towards Gorcum. Here Sir Kenelm Digby, travelling 
 towards Cologne, met us. 
 
 The next morning, the 19th, we arrived at Dort, passing 
 by the Decoys, where they catch innumerable quantities 
 of fowl. , 
 
 22nd. I went again to Rotterdam to receive a pass 
 which I expected from Brussels, securing me through 
 Brabant and Flanders, designing to go into England 
 through those countries. The Cardinal Infante, brother 
 to the king of Spain, was then governor. By this pass, 
 having obtained another from the Prince of Orange, upon 
 the 24th of September I departed through Dort ; but met 
 with very bad tempestuous weather, being several times 
 driven back, and obliged to lie at anchor off Keele, other 
 vessels lying there waiting better weather. The 25th and 
 26th we made other essays ; but were again repulsed to the 
 harbour, where lay sixty vessels waiting to sail.^ But, 011
 
 30 DIARY OP [BERGEN-OP-ZOOM, 
 
 the 27th we, impatient of the time and inhospitableness of 
 the place, sailed again with a contrary and impetuous wind 
 and a terrible sea, in great jeopardy ; for we had much 
 ado to keep ourselves above water, the billows breaking 
 desperately on our vessel : we were driven into William- 
 stadt, a place garrisoned by the English, where the Go- 
 vernor had a fair house. The works, and especially the 
 counterscarp, are curiously hedged with quick, and planted 
 with a stately row of limes on the rampart. The church 
 is of a round structure, with a cupola, and the town 
 belongs entirely to the Prince of Orange, as does that of 
 Breda, and some other places. 
 
 28th. Failing of an appointment, I was constrained to 
 return to Dort for a bill of exchange ; but it was the 1st 
 of October ere I could get back. At Keele, I numbered 
 141 vessels, who durst not yet venture out ; but, animated 
 by the master of a stout barque, after a small encounter 
 of weather, we arrived by four that evening at Steen- 
 bergen. In the passage we sailed over a sea called the 
 Plaats, an exceeding dangerous water, by reason of two 
 contrary tides which meet there very impetuously. 
 Here, because of the many shelves, we were forced to 
 tide it along the Channel ; but, ere we could gain the 
 place, the ebb was so far spent, that we were compelled 
 to foot it at least two long miles, through a most pelting 
 shower of rain. 
 
 2nd October. With a gentleman of the Rhyngraves, 
 I went in a cart, or tumbrel (for it was no better ; no other 
 accommodation could be procured) of two wheels and 
 one horse, to Bergen-op-Zoom, meeting by the way divers 
 parties of his Highness's army now retiring towards their 
 winter quarters ; the convoy skiffs riding by thousands 
 along the harbour. The fort was heretofore built by the 
 English. 
 
 The next morning, I embarked for Lillo, having refused 
 a convoy of horse which was offered me. The tide being 
 against us, we landed short of the fort on the beach, where 
 we marched half leg deep in mud, ere we could gain the 
 dyke, which being five or six miles from Lillo, we were 
 forced to walk on foot very wet and discomposed ; and 
 then entering a boat we passed the ferry, and came to 
 the castle. Being taken before the Governor, he demanded
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 31 
 
 my pass, to which he set his hand, and asked two rix- 
 dollars for a fee, which methought appeared very exorbi- 
 tant in a soldier of his quality. I told him that I had 
 already purchased my pass of the commissaries at Rotter- 
 dam ; at which, in a great fury, snatching the paper out of my 
 hand, he flung it scornfully under the table, and bade me 
 try whether I could get to Antwerp without his permis- 
 sion ; but, I had no sooner given him the dollars, than he 
 returned the passport surlily enough, and made me pay 
 fourteen Dutch shillings to the cantone, or searcher, 
 for my contempt, which I was glad to do for fear of fur- 
 ther trouble, should he have discovered my Spanish pass, 
 in which the States were therein treated by the name of 
 rebels. Besides all these exactions, I gave the commissary 
 six shillings, to the soldiers something, and, ere perfectly 
 clear of this frontier, thirty-one stivers to the man-of-war, 
 who lay blocking up the river betwixt Lillo and the 
 opposite sconce called Lifkinshoeck. 
 
 4th. We sailed by several Spanish forts, out of one of 
 which, St. Mary's port, came a Don onboard us, to whom 
 I showed my Spanish pass, which he signed, and civilly 
 dismissed us. Hence, sailing by another man-of-war, to 
 which we lowered our topsails, we at length arrived at 
 Antwerp. 
 
 The lodgings here are very handsome and convenient. 
 I lost little time ; but, with the aid of one Mr. Lewkner, 
 our conductor, we visited divers churches, colleges, and 
 monasteries. The Church of the Jesuits is most sump- 
 tuous and magnificent; a glorious fabric without and 
 within, wholly incrusted with marble, inlaid and polished 
 into divers representations of histories, landscapes, and 
 flowers. On the high altar is placed the statue of the 
 Blessed Virgin and our Saviour in white marble, with 
 a boss in the girdle set with very fair and rich sap- 
 phires, and divers other stones of price. The choir is a 
 glorious piece of architecture ; the pulpit supported by 
 four angels, and adorned with other carvings, and rare 
 pictures by Rubens, now lately dead, and divers votive 
 tables and relics. Hence, to the Vrou Kirk, or Notre 
 Dame of Antwerp: it is a very venerable fabric, built 
 after the Gothic manner, especially the tower, which I 
 ascended, the better to take a view of the country adjacent ;
 
 32 DIARY OP [ANTWERP, 
 
 which, happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly 
 bright, and darted his rays without any interruption, 
 afforded so bright a reflection to us who were above, and 
 had a full prospect of both land and water about it, that I 
 was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of 
 some such substance as this earthly globe. Perceiving all 
 the subjacent country, at so small an horizontal distance, 
 to repercuss such a light as I could hardly look against, 
 save where the river and other large water within our view, 
 appeared of a more dark and uniform colour, resembling 
 those spots in the moon supposed to be seas there, according 
 to Hevelius, and as they appear in our late telescopes. 
 I numbered in this church thirty privileged altars, that of 
 St. Sebastian adorned with a painting of his martyrdom. 
 
 We went to see the Jerusalem Church, affirmed to have 
 been founded by one who, upon divers great wagers, 
 passed to and fro between that city and Antwerp on foot, 
 by which he procured large sums of money, which he be- 
 stowed on this pious structure. Hence, to St. Mary's 
 Chapel, where I had some conference with two English 
 Jesuits, confessors to Colonel Jaye's regiment. These fathers 
 conducted us to the Cloister of Nuns, where we heard a 
 Dutch sermon upon the exposure of the Host. The Senate- 
 house of this city is a very spacious and magnificent 
 building. 
 
 5th. I visited the Jesuits' School, which, for the fame of 
 their method, I greatly desired to see. They were divided 
 into four classes, with several inscriptions over each : as, 
 first, Ad majorem Dei gloriam ; over the second, Princeps 
 diligentice ; the third, Imperator Byzantiorum ; over the 
 fourth and uppermost, Imperator Romanorum. Under 
 these, the scholars and pupils had their places, or forms, 
 with titles and priority according to their proficiency. 
 Their dormitory and lodgings above were exceedingly 
 neat. They have a prison for the offenders and less 
 diligent ; and, in an ample court, to recreate themselves 
 in, is an aviary, and a yard where eagles, vultures, foxes, 
 monkeys, and other animals are kept, to divert the boys 
 withal at their hours of remission. To this school join the 
 music and mathematical schools, and lastly a pretty, neat 
 chapel. The great street is built after the Italian mode, 
 in the middle whereof is erected a glorious crucifix of
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 33 
 
 white and black marble, greater than the life. This is a 
 very fair and noble street, clean, well paved, and sweet to 
 admiration. 
 
 The Oesters house, belonging to the East India Com- 
 pany, is a stately palace, adorned with more than 300 
 windows. From hence walking into the Gun-garden, I 
 was allowed to see as much of the citadel as is per- 
 mitted to strangers. It is a matchless piece of modern 
 fortification, accommodated with lodgments for the sol- 
 diers and magazines. The graffs, ramparts, and plat- 
 forms are stupendous. Returning by the shop of Plantine, 
 I bought some books, for the namesake only of that famous 
 printer. 
 
 But there was nothing about this city which more 
 ravished me than those delicious shades and walks of 
 stately trees, which render the fortified works of the town 
 one of the sweetest places in Europe ; nor did I ever 
 observe a more quiet, clean, elegantly built, and civil 
 place, than this magnificent and famous city of Antwerp. 
 In the evening, I was invited to Signor Duerte's, a Portu- 
 guese by nation, an exceeding rich merchant, whose palace 
 I found to be furnished like a prince's. His three daughters 
 entertained us with rare music, vocal and instrumental, 
 which was finished with a handsome collation. I took 
 leave of the ladies and of sweet Antwerp, as late as it was, 
 embarking for Brussels on the Scheldt in a vessel, which 
 delivered us to a second boat (in another river) drawn or 
 towed by horses. In this passage, we frequently changed 
 our barge, by reason of the bridges thwarting our course. 
 Here I observed numerous families inhabiting their vessels 
 and floating dwellings, so built and divided by cabins, as 
 few houses on land enjoyed better accommodation, stored 
 with all sorts of utensils, neat chambers, a pretty parlour, 
 and kept so sweet, that nothing could be more refreshing. 
 The rivers on which they are drawn are very clear and 
 still waters, and pass through a most pleasant country on 
 both the banks. We had in our boat a very good ordinary, 
 and excellent company. The cut is straight as a line for 
 twenty English miles. What I much admired was, near 
 the midway, another artificial river, which intersects this 
 at right angles, but on an eminence of ground, and is 
 carried in an aqueduct of stone so far above the other, as 
 
 VOL. i. D
 
 34 DIARY OF [BRUSSELS, 
 
 that the waters neither mingle, nor hinder one another's 
 passage.* 
 
 We came to a town called Villefrow, where all the 
 passengers went on shore to wash at a fountain issuing 
 out of a pillar, and then came aboard again. On the 
 margin of this long tract, are abundance of shrines and 
 images, defended from the injuries of the weather by 
 niches of .stone wherein they are placed. 
 
 7th. We arrived at Brussels at nine in the morning. 
 The Stadt-house, near the market-place, is, for the carving 
 in freestone, a most laborious and finished piece, well worthy 
 observation. The flesh-shambles are also built of stone. 
 I was pleased with certain small engines, by which a girl, 
 or boy, was able to draw up, or let down, great bridges, 
 which in divers parts of this city crossed the channel for 
 the benefit of passengers. The walls of this town are very 
 entire, and full of towers at competent distances. The 
 cathedral is built upon a very high and exceeding steep 
 ascent, to which we mounted by fair steps of stone. Hence 
 I walked to a convent of English Nuns, with whom I sat 
 discoursing most part of the afternoon. 
 
 8th. Being the morning I came away, I went to see 
 the Prince's Court, an ancient, confused building, not 
 much unlike the Hofft, at the Hague : there is here like- 
 wise a very large Hall, where they vend all sorts of wares. 
 Through this we passed by the chapel, which is indeed 
 rarely arched, and in the middle of it was the hearse, or 
 catafalco, of the late Archduchess, the wise and pious Clara 
 Eugenia. Out of this we were conducted to the lodgings, 
 tapestried with incomparable arras, and adorned with 
 many excellent pieces of Rubens, old and young Breugel, 
 Titian, and Stenwick, with stories of most of the late 
 actions in the Netherlands. 
 
 By an accident, we could not see the library. There is 
 a fair terrace which looks to the vineyard, in which, on 
 pedestals, are fixed the statues of all the Spanish kings of 
 the house of Austria. The opposite walls are painted by 
 Rubens, being an history of the late tumults in Belgia : 
 in the last piece, the Archduchess shuts a great pair of 
 gates upon Mars, who is coming out of hell, armed, and in 
 a menacing posture ; which, with that other of the Infanta 
 
 * As at the Duke of Bridgewater's canal, in Lancashire.
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 35 
 
 taking leave of Don Philip the Fourth, is a most incompa- 
 rable table. 
 
 From hence, we walked into the park, which for being 
 entirely within the walls of the city is particularly 
 remarkable; nor is it less pleasant than if in the most 
 solitary recesses ; so naturally is it furnished with what- 
 ever may render it agreeable, melancholy, and country- 
 like. Here is a stately heronry, divers springs of water, 
 artificial cascades, rocks, grots, one whereof is composed 
 of the extravagant roots of trees cunningly built and 
 hung together with wires. In this park are both fallow 
 and red deer. 
 
 From hence, we were led into the Menage, and out of 
 that into a most sweet and delicious garden, where was 
 another grot of more neat and costly materials, full of 
 noble statues, and entertaining us with artificial music ; 
 but the hedge of water, in form of lattice-work, which the 
 fountaineer caused to ascend out of the earth by degrees, 
 exceedingly pleased and surprised me ; for thus with a 
 pervious wall, or rather a palisade hedge of water, was the 
 whole parterre environed. 
 
 There is likewise a fair aviary ; and in the court next 
 it are kept divers sorts of animals, rare and exotic fowl, 
 as eagles, cranes, storks, bustards, pheasants of several 
 kinds, and a duck having four wings. In another division 
 of the same close are rabbits of an almost perfect yellow 
 colour. 
 
 There was no Court now in the palace, the Infante Car- 
 dinal, who was the governor of Flanders, being dead but 
 newly, and every one in deep mourning. 
 
 At near eleven o'clock, I repaired to his Majesty's 
 agent, Sir Henry De Vic, who very courteously received 
 me, and accommodated me with a coach and six horses, 
 which carried me from Brussels to Ghent, where it was to 
 meet my Lord of Arundel, Earl Marshal of England, who 
 had requested me when I was at Antwerp to send it for 
 him, if I went not thither myself. 
 
 Thus taking leave of Brussels and a sad Court, yet full 
 of gallant persons, (for in this small city, the acquaintance 
 being universal, ladies and gentlemen, I perceived, had 
 great diversions and frequent meetings,) I hasted towards 
 Ghent. On the way, I met with divers little waggons, 
 
 D 2
 
 36 DIARY OF [GHENT, 
 
 prettily contrived and full of peddling merchandises, drawn 
 by mastiff-dogs, harnessed completely like so many coach- 
 horses ; in some four, in others six, as in Brussels itself I 
 had observed. In Antwerp I saw, as I remember, four 
 dogs draw five lusty children in a chariot : the master 
 commands them whither he pleases, crying his wares 
 about the streets. After passing through Ouse, by six in 
 the evening, I arrived at Ghent. This is a city of so great 
 a circumference, that it is reported to be seven leagues 
 round ; but there is not half of it now built, much of it 
 remaining in fields and desolate pastures even within the 
 walls, which have strong gates towards the west, and two 
 fair churches. 
 
 Here I beheld the Palace wherein John of Gaunt and 
 Charles V. were born ; whose statue stands in the market- 
 place, upon a high pillar, with his sword drawn, to which 
 (as I was told) the magistrates and burghers were wont to 
 repair upon a certain day every year with ropes about 
 their necks, in token of submission and penance for an 
 old rebellion of theirs ; but now the hemp is changed into 
 a blue ribbon. Here is planted the basilisco, or great 
 gun, so much talked of. The Lys and the Scheldt meet- 
 ing in this vast city, divide it into twenty-six islands, 
 which are united by many bridges, somewhat resembling 
 Venice. This night I supped with the Abbot of Andoyne, 
 a pleasant and courteous priest. 
 
 . I passed by boat to Bruges, taking in at a 
 
 redoubt a convoy of fourteen musketeers, because the 
 other side of the river, being Contribution-land, was sub- 
 ject to the inroads and depredations of the bordering 
 States. This river was cut by the famous Marquis 
 Spinola, and is in my judgment a wonderful piece of 
 labour, and a worthy public work, being in some places 
 forced through the main rock, to an incredible depth, for 
 thirty miles. At the end of each mile, is built a small 
 redoubt, which communicates a line to the next, and so 
 the whole way, from whence we received many volleys of 
 shot, in compliment to my Lord Marshal, who was in our 
 vessel, a passenger with us. At five that evening, we were 
 met by the magistrates of Bruges, who came out to convey 
 my Lord to his lodgings, at whose cost he was entertained 
 that night.
 
 1641.] JOHN EVELYN. 37 
 
 The morning after we went to see the Stadt house and 
 adjoining aqueduct, the church, and market-place, where 
 we saw cheeses and butter piled up in heaps; also the 
 fortifications and graffs, which are extremely large. 
 
 The 9th we arrived at Ostend by a straight and artificial 
 river. Here, with leave of the captain of the watch, I was 
 carried to survey the river and harbour, with fortifications 
 on one side thereof: the east and south are mud and 
 earth walls. It is a very strong place, and lately stood a 
 memorable siege three years, three months, three weeks, 
 and three days. I went to see the church of St. Peter, 
 and the cloisters of the Franciscans. 
 
 10th. I went by waggon, accompanied with a jovial 
 commissary, to Dunkirk, the journey being made all on the 
 sea-sands. On our arrival, we first viewed the court of 
 guards, the works, the town-house, and the new church ; 
 the latter is very beautiful within ; and another, wherein 
 they showed us an excellent piece of Our Saviour's bearing 
 tJie Cross. The harbour, in two channels, coming up to 
 the town, was choked with a multitude of prizes. 
 
 From hence, the next day, I marched three. English 
 miles towards the packet-boat, being a pretty frigate of 
 six guns, which embarked us for England about three in 
 the afternoon. 
 
 At our going off, the fort, against which our pinnace 
 anchored, saluted my Lord Marshal with twelve great 
 guns, which we answered with three. Not 'having the 
 wind favourable, we anchored that night before Calais. 
 About midnight, we weighed ; and, at four in the morning, 
 though not far from Dover, we could not make the pier 
 till four that afternoon, the wind proving contrary and 
 driving us westward ; but at last we got on shore, October 
 the 12th. 
 
 From Dover, I that night rode post to Canterbury. 
 Here I visited the cathedral, then in great splendour, 
 those famous windows being entire, since demolished by 
 the fanatics. The next morning, by Sittingbourne, I came 
 to Rochester, and thence to Gravesend, where a light- 
 horseman (as they call it) taking us in, we spent our tide 
 as far as Greenwich. From hence, after we had a little 
 refreshed ourselves at the College, (for by reason of the 
 contagion then in London we balked the inns,) we came
 
 38 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 to London Hnding at Arundel-stairs. Here I took leave 
 of his Lo d' .p, and retired to my lodgings in the Middle 
 Temple, being about two in the morning, the 14th of 
 October. 
 
 16th. I went to see my brother, at Wotton. On the 
 31st of that month (unfortunate for the Irish Rebellion, 
 which broke out on the 23rd) I was one and twenty years 
 of age. 
 
 7th November. After receiving the Sacrament at Wotton 
 church, I visited my Lord Marshal at Albury. 
 
 23rd. I returned to London; and, on the 25th, saw his 
 Majesty ride through the City after his coming out of 
 Scotland, and a Peace proclaimed, with great acclama- 
 tions and joy of the giddy people. 
 
 15th December. I was elected one of the Comptrollers of 
 the Middle Temple-revellers, as the fashion of the young 
 students and gentlemen was, the Christmas being kept 
 this year with great solemnity; but, being desirous to 
 pass it in the country, I got leave to resign my staff of 
 office, and went with my brother, Richard, to Wotton. 
 
 10th January, 1642. I gave a visit to my cousin Hatton 
 of Ditton. 
 
 19th. I went to London, where I stayed till 5th March, 
 studying a little, but dancing and fooling more. 
 
 3rd October. To Chichester, and hence the next day to 
 see the siege of Portsmouth; for now was that bloody 
 difference between the King and Parliament broken out, 
 which ended in the fatal tragedy so many many years after. 
 It was on the day of its being rendered to Sir William 
 Waller ; which gave me an opportunity of taking my leave 
 of Colonel Goring, the governor, now embarking for 
 France. This day was fought that signal battle at Edge- 
 hill. Thence I went to Southampton and Winchester, 
 where I visited the castle, school, church, and King 
 Arthur's Round Table, but especially the church and its 
 Saxon kings' monuments, which I esteemed a worthy 
 antiquity. 
 
 12th November was the battle of Brentford, surprisingly 
 fought, and to the great consternation of the City, had 
 his Majesty (as it was believed he would) pursued his 
 advantage. I came in with my horse and arms just at 
 the retreat; but was not permitted to stay longer than
 
 1642-3.] JOHN EVELYN. 39 
 
 the 15th by reason of the army marching to Gloucester; 
 which would have left both me and my brothers exposed 
 to ruin, without any advantage to his Majesty. 
 
 7th December. I went from Wotton to London, to see 
 the so much celebrated line of communication, and on the 
 ] Oth returned to Wotton, nobody knowing of my having 
 been in his Majesty's army. 
 
 1643. 10th March. I went to Hartingford-berry, to 
 visit my cousin, Keightly. 
 
 llth. I went to see my Lord of Salisbury's Palace at 
 Hatfield, where the most considerable rarity, besides the 
 house (inferior to few then in England for its architec- 
 ture,) were the garden and vineyard, rarely well watered 
 and planted. They also showed us the picture of Secre- 
 tary Cecil, in mosaic work, very well done by some Italian 
 hand. 
 
 I must not forget what amazed us exceedingly in the 
 night before ; viz. a shining cloud in the air, in shape 
 resembling a sword, the point reaching to the north; it 
 was as bright as the moon, the rest of the sky being very 
 serene. It began about eleven at night, and vanished not 
 till above one, being seen by all the south of England. 
 I made many journeys to and from London. 
 
 April the 15th. To Hatfield, and near the town of 
 Hertford I went to see Sir J. Harrison's house new built.* 
 Returning to London, I called to see his Majesty's house 
 and gardens at Theobald's, since demolished by the 
 rebels. 
 
 2nd May. I went from Wotton to London, where I saw 
 the furious and zealous people demolish that stately Cross 
 in Cheapside. 
 
 On the 4th I returned, with no little regret, for the 
 confusion that threatened us. Resolving to possess myself 
 in some quiet, if it might be, in a time of so great jealousy, 
 I built by my brothers permission a study, made a fish- 
 pond, an island, and some other solitudes and retirements 
 at Wotton; which gave the first occasion of improving 
 them to those waterworks and gardens which afterwards 
 succeeded them, and became at that time the most famous 
 of England. 
 
 * Now called Ball's Park, belonging to the present Marquis Townsend.
 
 40 DIARY OF [BOCLOGNK, 
 
 12th July. I sent my black menage horse and furniture 
 with a friend to his Majesty, then at Oxford. 
 
 23rd. The Covenant being pressed, I absented myself; 
 but, finding it impossible to evade the doing very unhand- 
 some things, and which had been a great cause of my 
 perpetual motions hitherto between Wotton and London, 
 October the 2nd, I obtained a license of his Majesty, dated 
 at Oxford, and signed by the King, to travel again. 
 
 6th November. Lying by the way from Wotton at Sir 
 Ralph Whitfi eld's, at Blechingley, (whither both my brothers 
 had conducted me,) I arrived at London on the 7th, and 
 two days after took boat at the Tower- wharf, which carried 
 me as far as Sittingbourne, though not without danger, I 
 being only in a pair of oars, exposed to a hideous storm ; 
 but it pleased God that we got in before the peril was 
 considerable. From thence, I went by post to Dover, 
 accompanied with one Mr. Thicknesse, a very dear friend 
 of mine.* 
 
 llth. Having a reasonable good passage, though the 
 weather was snowy and untoward enough, we came before 
 Calais, where, as we went on shore, mistaking the tide, 
 our shallop struck on the sands, with no little danger; 
 but at length we got off. 
 
 Calais is considered an extraordinary well-fortified place, 
 in the old castle and new citadel regarding the sea. The 
 haven consists of a long bank of sand, lying opposite to it. 
 The market-place and the church are remarkable things, 
 besides those relics of our former dominion there. I 
 remember there were engraven in stone upon the front of 
 an ancient dwelling which was showed us, these words in 
 English, " God save the King/' together with the name 
 of the architect and date. The walls of the town are sub- 
 stantial ; but the situation towards the land is not pleasant, 
 by reason of the marshes and low grounds about it. 
 
 12th. After dinner, we took horse with the Mes- 
 sagere, hoping to have arrived at Boulogne that night; 
 but there fell so great a snow, accompanied with hail, rain, 
 and sudden darkness, that we had much ado to gain the 
 next village ; and in this passage, being to cross a valley 
 by a causeway and a bridge built over a small river, the 
 
 * The gentleman he has already mentioned as so much assisting him. in 
 his studies at Oxford.
 
 1643.] JOHN EVELYN. 41 
 
 rain that had fallen making it an impetuous stream for 
 near a quarter of a mile, my horse slipping had almost 
 been the occasion of my perishing. We none of us went 
 to bed ; for the soldiers in those parts leaving little in the 
 villages, we had enough to do to get ourselves dry, by 
 morning, between the fire and the fresh straw. The next 
 day early, we arrived at Boulogne. 
 
 This is a double town, one part of it situate on a high 
 rock, or downs ; the other, called the lower town, is yet 
 with a great declivity towards the sea; both of them 
 defended by a strong castle, which stands on a notable 
 eminence. Under the town runs the river, which is yet 
 but an inconsiderable brook. Henry VIII. in the siege 
 of this place is said to have used those great leathern 
 guns, which I have since beheld in the Tower of London, 
 inscribed Non Marie opus est, cut non deficit Mercurius ; 
 if at least the history be true, which my Lord Herbert 
 doubts.* 
 
 The next morning, in some danger of parties [Spanish} 
 surprising us, we came to Montreuil, built on the summit 
 of a most conspicuous hill, environed with fair and ample 
 meadows ; but all the suburbs had been from time to time 
 ruined, and were now lately burnt by the Spanish inroads. 
 This town is fortified with two very deep dry ditches ; the 
 walls about the bastions and citadel are a noble piece of 
 masonry. The church is more glorious without than 
 within : the market-place large : but the inhabitants are 
 miserably poor. The next day, we came to Abbeville, 
 having passed all this way in continual expectation of the 
 volunteers, as they call them. This town affords a good 
 aspect towards the hill from whence we descended ; nor 
 does it deceive us ; for it is handsomely built, and has 
 many pleasant and useful streams passing through it, the 
 main river being the Somme, which discharges itself into 
 the sea at St. Valery, almost in view of the town. The 
 principal church is a very handsome piece of Gothic 
 architecture, and the ports and ramparts sweetly planted 
 for defence and ornament. In the morning, they brought 
 us choice of guns and pistols to sell at reasonable rates, 
 and neatly made, being here a merchandise of great 
 account, the town abounding in gun-smiths. 
 
 In his history of that lung.
 
 4# DIARY OP [ST. DENIS, 
 
 Hence we advanced to Beauvais, another town of good 
 note, and having the first vineyards we had seen. The 
 next day to Beaumont, and the morrow to Paris, having 
 taken our repast at St. Denis, two leagues from that great 
 city. St. Denis is considerable only for its stately cathe- 
 dral, and the dormitory of the French kings, there inhumed 
 as ours at Westminster Abbey. The treasury is esteemed 
 one of the richest in Europe. The church was built by 
 king Dagobert,* but since much enlarged, being now 390 
 feet long, 100 in breadth, and 80 in height, without com- 
 prehending the cover: it has also a very high shaft of 
 atone, and the gates are of brass. Here, whilst the monks 
 conducted us, we were showed the ancient and modern 
 sepulchres of their kings, beginning with the founder to 
 Louis his son, with Charles Martel and Pepin, son and 
 father of Charlemagne. These lie in the choir, and without 
 it are many more ; amongst the rest that of Bertrand du 
 Guesclin, Constable of France ; in the chapel of Charles V., 
 all his posterity, and near him the magnificent sepul- 
 chre of Francis I. with his children, wars, victories, and 
 triumphs engraven in marble. In the nave of the church 
 lies the catafalque, or hearse, of Louis XIII., Henry II., a 
 noble tomb of Francis II., and Charles IX. Above are 
 bodies of several Saints ; below, under a state of black 
 velvet, the late Louis XIII., father of this present monarch. 
 Every one of the ten chapels, or oratories, had some 
 Saints in them ; amongst the rest, one of the Holy Inno- 
 cents. The treasury is kept in the sacristy above, in 
 which are crosses of massy gold and silver, studded with 
 precious stones, one of gold three feet high, set with sap- 
 phires, rubies, and great oriental pearls. Another given 
 by Charles the Great, having a noble amethyst in the 
 middle of it, stones and pearls of inestimable value. 
 Amongst the still more valuable relics are, a nail from our 
 Saviour's Cross, in a box of gold full of precious stones ; a 
 crucifix of the true wood of the Cross, carved by Pope 
 Clement III., enchased in a crystal covered with gold ; a 
 box in which is some of the Virgin's hair ; some of the 
 linen in which our blessed Saviour was wrapped at his 
 nativity; in a huge reliquary, modelled like a church, 
 some of our Saviour's blood, hair, clothes, linen with which 
 
 * A.D. 630.
 
 1643.] JOHN EVELYN. 43 
 
 he wiped the Apostles' feet ; with many other equally 
 authentic toys, which the friar who conducted us, would 
 have us believe were authentic relics. Amongst the trea- 
 sures is the crown of Charlemagne, his seven-foot high 
 sceptre and hand of justice, the agraffe of his royal mantle, 
 beset with diamonds and rubies, his sword, belt, and spurs 
 of gold; the crown of St. Louis, covered with precious 
 stones, amongst which is one vast ruby, uncut, of inestima- 
 ble value, weighing 300 carats, (under which is set one of 
 the thorns of our blessed Saviour's crown,) his sword, seal, 
 and hand of justice. The two crowns of Henry IV., his 
 sceptre, hand of justice, and spurs. The two crowns of his 
 son, Louis. In the cloak-royal of Anne of Bretagne is a 
 very great and rare ruby. Divers books covered with 
 solid plates of gold, and studded with precious stones. 
 Two vases of beryl, two of agate, whereof one is esteemed 
 for its bigness, colour, and embossed carving, the best now 
 to be seen : by a special favour I was permitted to take the 
 measure and dimensions of it ; the story is a Bacchanalia 
 and sacrifice to Priapus ; a very holy thing truly, and fit 
 for a cloister ! It is really antique, and the noblest jewel 
 there. There is also a large gondola of chrysolite, a huge 
 urn of porphyry, another of calcedon, a vase of onyx, the 
 largest I had ever seen of that stone ; two of crystal ; a 
 morsel of one of the waterpots in which our Saviour did 
 his first miracle; the effigies of the queen of Saba, of 
 Julius Augustus, Mark Antony, Cleopatra, and others, 
 upon sapphires, topazes, agates, and cornelians, that of 
 the queen of Saba* has a Moorish face ; those of Julius 
 and Nero on agates rarely coloured and cut : a cup in 
 which Solomon was used to drink, and an Apollo on a 
 great amethyst. There lay in a window, a mirror of a 
 kind of stone said to have belonged to the poet Virgil : 
 Charlemagne's chessmen, full of Arabic characters. In 
 the press next the door, the brass lantern full of crystals, 
 said to have conducted Judas and his company to appre- 
 hend our blessed Saviour. A fair unicorn's horn, sent by 
 a king of Persia, about seven feet long. In another press 
 (over which stands the picture in oil of their Orleans 
 Amazon with her sword) the effigies of the late French 
 kings in wax, like ours in Westminster, covered with their 
 
 Or Sheba.
 
 44 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 robes ; with a world of other rarities. Having rewarded 
 our courteous friar, we took horse for Paris, where we 
 arrived about five in the afternoon. In the way were fair 
 crosses of stone carved with neur-de-lis at every furlong's 
 end, where they affirm St. Denis rested and laid down his 
 head after martyrdom, carrying it from the place where 
 this monastery is builded. We lay at Paris at the Ville de 
 Venice ; where, after I had something refreshed, I went 
 to visit Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resident with 
 the French king. 
 
 5th December. The Earl of Norwich* came as Ambas- 
 sador extraordinary : I went to meet him in a coach and six 
 horses, at the palace of Monsieur de Bassompiere, where 
 I saw that gallant person, his gardens, terraces, and rare 
 prospects. My lord was waited on by the master of the 
 ceremonies, and a very great cavalcade of men of quality, 
 to the Palais Cardinal, where on the 23rd he had audience 
 of the French king, and the queen Regent his mother, in 
 the golden chamber of presence. From thence, I con- 
 ducted him to his lodgings in Rue St. Denis, and so took 
 my leave. 
 
 24th. I went with some company to see some remarkable 
 places without the city : as the Isle, and how it is encom- 
 passed by the rivers Seine and the Ouse. The city is 
 divided into three parts, whereof the town is greatest. 
 The city lies between it and the University, in form of an 
 island. Over the Seine, is a stately bridge called Pont 
 Neuf, begun by Henry III. in 1578, finished by Henry IV., 
 his successor. It is all of hewn free-stone found under 
 the streets, but more plentifully at Montmartre, and con- 
 sists of twelve arches, in the midst of which ends the point 
 of an island, on which are built handsome artificers' 
 houses. There is one large passage for coaches, and two 
 for foot-passengers three or four feet higher, and of conve- 
 nient breadth for eight or ten to go abreast. On the 
 middle of this stately bridge, on one side stands the 
 famous statue of Henry the Great on horseback, exceed- 
 ing the natural proportion by much; and, on the four 
 faces of a stately pedestal (which is composed of various 
 sorts of polished marbles and rich mouldings) inscriptions 
 
 * George Lord Goring ; upon whom the above title had been recently 
 conferred.
 
 1643.] JOHN EVELYN. 45 
 
 of his victories and most signal actions are engraven in 
 brass. The statue and horse are of copper, the work of 
 the great John di Bologna, and sent from Florence by 
 Ferdinand the First, and Cosmo the Second, uncle and 
 cousin to Mary de Medicis, the wife of king Henry, whose 
 statue it represents. The place where it is erected, is 
 inclosed with a strong and beautiful grate of iron, about 
 which there are always mountebanks showing their feats 
 to idle passengers. From hence is a rare prospect towards 
 the Louvre and suburbs of St. Germains, the Isle du 
 Palais, and Notre Dame. At the foot of this bridge is a 
 water-house, on the front whereof, at a great height, is the 
 story of Our Saviour and the woman of Samaria pouring 
 water out of a bucket. Above is a very rare dial of several 
 motions, with a chime, &c. The water is conveyed by 
 huge wheels, pumps, and other engines, from the river 
 beneath. The confluence of the people and multitude of 
 coaches passing every moment over the bridge, to a new 
 spectator is an agreeable diversion. Other bridges there 
 are, as that of Notre Dame and the Pont-au-Change, &c., 
 fairly built, with houses of stone, which are laid over this 
 river : only the Pont St. Anne, landing the suburbs of 
 St. Germains at the Tuileries, is built of wood, having 
 likewise a water-house in the midst of it, and a statue of 
 Neptune casting water out of a whale's mouth, of lead, but 
 much inferior to the Samaritan. 
 
 The University lies south-west on higher ground, con- 
 tiguous to, but the lesser part of, Paris. They reckon no 
 less than sixty-five colleges ; but they in nothing approach 
 ours at Oxford for state and order. The booksellers dwell 
 within the University. The schools (of which more 
 hereafter) are very regular. 
 
 The suburbs are those of St. Denis, Honore, St. Marcel, 
 St. Jaques, St. Michael, St. Victoire, and St. Germains, 
 which last is the largest, and where the nobility and 
 persons of best quality are seated ; and truly Paris, com- 
 prehending the suburbs, is, for the material the houses are 
 built with, and many noble and magnificent piles, one of 
 the most gallant cities in the world ; large in circuit, of a 
 round form, very populous, but situated in a bottom, 
 environed with gentle declivities, rendering some places 
 very dirty, and making it smell as if sulphur were mingled
 
 46 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 with the mud ; yet it is paved with a kind of free-stone, 
 of near a foot square ; which renders it more easy to walk 
 on than our pebbles in London. 
 
 On Christmas eve, I went to see the Cathedral at Notre 
 Dame, erected by Philip Augustus, but begun by King 
 Robert, son of Hugh Capet. It consists of a Gothic 
 fabric, sustained with 120 pillars, which make two aisles 
 in the church round about the choir, without comprehend- 
 ing the chapels, being 174 paces long, 60 wide, and 100 
 high. The choir is inclosed with stone-work graven with 
 the sacred history, and contains forty -five chapels chancelled 
 with iron. At the front of the chief entrance are statues 
 in relievo of the kings, twenty-eight in number, from 
 Childebert to the founder, Philip ; and above them are 
 two high square towers, and another of a smaller size, 
 bearing a spire in the middle, where the body of the church 
 forms a cross. The great tower is ascended by 389 steps, 
 having twelve galleries from one to the other. They 
 greatly reverence the crucifix over the screen of the choir, 
 with an image of the Blessed Virgin. There are some 
 good modern paintings hanging on the pillars : the most con- 
 spicuous statue is the huge colossal one of St. Christopher, 
 with divers other figures of men, houses, prospects, and 
 rocks, about this gigantic piece, being of one stone, and 
 more remarkable for its bulk than any other perfection. 
 This is the prime church of France for dignity, having 
 archdeacons, vicars, canons, priests, and chaplains in good 
 store, to the number of 127. It is also the palace of the 
 archbishop. The young king was there with a great 
 and martial guard, who entered the nave of the church 
 with drums and fifes, at the ceasing of which I was enter- 
 tained with the church-music ; and so I left him. 
 
 January 4th, 1644. I passed this day with one Mr. 
 J. Wall, an Irish gentleman, who had been a friar in 
 Spain, and afterwards a reader in St. Isodore's chair, at 
 Rome ; but was, I know not how, getting away, and pre- 
 tending to be a soldier of fortune, an absolute cavalier, 
 having, as he told us, been a captain of horse in Germany. 
 It is certain he was an excellent disputant, and so strangely 
 given to it that nothing could pass him. He would needs 
 persuade me to go with him this morning to the Jesuits' 
 College, to witness his polemical talent. We found the
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 47 
 
 Fathers in their Church at the Rue St. Antoine, where one 
 of them showed us that noble fabric, which for its cupola, 
 pavings, incrustations of marble, the pulpit, altars, (espe- 
 cially the high altar,) organ, lavatorium, &c., but above all, 
 for the richly carved and incomparable front I esteem to 
 be one of the most perfect pieces of architecture in Europe, 
 emulating even some of the greatest now at Rome itself. 
 But this not being what our friar sought, he led us into 
 the adjoining convent, where having showed us the library, 
 they began a very hot dispute on some points of divinity, 
 which our cavalier contested only to show his pride, and 
 to that indiscreet height, that the Jesuits would hardly 
 bring us to our coach, they being put beside all patience. 
 The next day, we went into the University, and into the 
 College of Navarre, which is a spacious well-built quadran- 
 gle, having a very noble library. 
 
 Thence to the Sorbonne, an ancient fabric built by one 
 Robert de Sorbonne, whose name it retains, but the restora- 
 tion which the late Cardinal de Richelieu has made to it 
 renders it one of the most excellent modern buildings; 
 the sumptuous church, of admirable architecture, is far 
 superior to the rest. The cupola, portico, and whole 
 design of the church, are very magnificent. 
 
 We entered into some of the schools, and in that of 
 divinity we found a grave doctor in his chair, with a mul- 
 titude of auditors, who all write as he dictates ; and this 
 they call a Course. After we had sat a little, our cavalier 
 started up, and rudely enough began to dispute with the 
 doctor ; at which, and especially as he was clad in the 
 Spanish habit, which in Paris is the greatest bugbear 
 imaginable, the scholars and doctor fell into such a fit of 
 laughter, that nobody could be heard speak for a while ; 
 but silence being obtained, he began to speak Latin, and 
 make his apology in so good a style, that their derision 
 was turned to admiration; and, beginning to argue, he 
 so baffled the Professor, that with universal applause they 
 all rose up and did him great honours, waiting on us 
 to the very street and our coach, and testifying great 
 satisfaction. 
 
 2nd Feb. I heard the news of my nephew G-eorge's 
 birth, which was on January 15th, English style, 1644. 
 
 3rd. I went to the Exchange. The late addition to
 
 48 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 the buildings is very noble ; but the galleries where they 
 sell their petty merchandise nothing so stately as ours at 
 London, no more than the place where they walk below, 
 being only a low vault. 
 
 The Palais, as they call the upper part, was built in the 
 time of Philip the Fair, noble and spacious. The great 
 Hall annexed to it, is arched with stone, having a range of 
 pillars in the middle, round which, and at the sides, are 
 shops of all kinds, especially booksellers'. One side is full 
 of pews for the clerks of the advocates, who swarm here, 
 (as ours at Westminster). At one of the ends stands an 
 altar, at which mass is said daily. Within are several 
 chambers, courts, treasuries, &c. Above that is the most 
 rich and glorious Salle d' Audience, the chamber of St. 
 Louis, and other superior Courts where the Parliament 
 sits, richly gilt on embossed carvings and frets, and 
 exceeding beautified. 
 
 Within the place where they sell their wares, is another 
 narrower gallery, full of shops and toys, &c., which looks 
 down into the prison-yard. Descending by a large pair 
 of stairs, we passed by Sainte Chapelle, which is a church 
 built by St. Louis, 1242, after the Gothic manner; it 
 stands on another church, which is under it, sustained by 
 pillars at the sides, which seem so weak, as to appear 
 extraordinary in the artist. This chapel is most famous 
 for its relics, having, as they pretend, almost the entire 
 crown of thorns ; the agate patine, rarely sculptured, 
 judged one of the largest and best in Europe. There was 
 now a very beautiful spire erecting. The court below is 
 very spacious, capable of holding many coaches, and sur- 
 rounded with shops, especially engravers', goldsmiths', 
 and watchmakers'. In it are a fair fountain and portico. 
 The Isle du Palais consists of a triangular brick building, 
 whereof one side, looking to the river, is inhabited by 
 goldsmiths. Within the court are private dwellings. The 
 front looking on the great bridge, is possessed by mounte- 
 banks, operators, and puppet-players. On the other part, 
 is the every day's market for all sorts of provisions, espe- 
 cially bread, herbs, flowers, orange-trees, choice shrubs. 
 Here is a shop called Noah's Ark, where are sold all 
 curiosities, natural or artificial, Indian or European, for 
 luxury or use, as cabinets, shells, ivory, porcelain, dried
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 49 
 
 fishes, insects, birds, pictures, and a thousand exotic 
 extravagances. Passing hence, we viewed the port Dau- 
 phine, an arch of excellent workmanship ; the street, 
 bearing the same name, is ample and straight. 
 
 4th. I went to see the Marais de Temple, where are 
 a noble church and palace, heretofore dedicated to the 
 Knights Templars, now converted to a piazza, not much 
 unlike ours at Covent Garden; but large and not so 
 pleasant, though built all about with divers considerable 
 palaces. 
 
 The Church of St. Genevieve is a place of great devo- 
 tion, dedicated to another of their Amazons, said to have 
 delivered the city from the English; for which she is 
 esteemed the tutelary saint of Paris. It stands on a steep 
 eminence, having a very high spire, and is governed by 
 canons regular. 
 
 At the Palais Royal, Henry IV. built a fair quadrangle 
 of stately palaces, arched underneath. In the middle of 
 a spacious area, stands on a noble pedestal a brazen statue 
 of Louis XIII., which, though made in imitation of that 
 in the Roman capitol, is nothing so much esteemed as 
 that on the Pont Neuf. 
 
 The hospital of the Quinze-Vingts, in the Rue St. Honore, 
 is an excellent foundation; but above all is the Hotel 
 Dieu for men and women, near Notre Dame, a princely, 
 pious, and expensive structure. That of the Charite gave 
 me great satisfaction, in seeing how decently and chris- 
 tianly the sick people are attended, even to delicacy. 
 I have seen them served by noble persons, men and 
 women. They have also gardens, walks, and fountains. 
 Divers persons are here cut for the stone with great 
 success yearly in May. The two Chatelets (supposed to 
 have been built by Julius Caesar) are places of judicature 
 in criminal causes; to which is a strong prison. The 
 courts are spacious and magnificent. 
 
 8th . I took coach and went to see the famous 
 
 Jardine Royale, which is an enclosure walled in, consist- 
 ing of all varieties of ground for planting and culture of 
 medical simples. It is well chosen, having in it hills, 
 meadows, wood and upland, natural and artificial, and is 
 richly stored with exotic plants. In the middle of the 
 parterre, is a fair fountain. There is a very fine house, 
 
 VOL. I. E
 
 50 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 chapel, laboratory, orangery, and other accommodations 
 for the President, who is always one of the king's chief 
 physicians. 
 
 From hence, we went to the other side of the town, and 
 to some distance from it, to the Bois de Vincennes, going 
 by the Bastile, which is the fortress, tower, and magazine 
 of this great city. It is very spacious within, and there 
 the Grand Master of the artillery has his house, with fair 
 gardens and walks. 
 
 The Bois de Vincennes has in it a square and noble 
 castle, with magnificent apartments, fit for a royal court, 
 not forgetting the chapel. It is the chief prison for 
 persons of quality. About it there is a park walled in, 
 full of deer ; and in one part there is a grove of goodly 
 pine-trees. 
 
 The next day, I went to see the Louvre with more 
 attention, its several courts and pavilions. One of the 
 quadrangles, begun by Henry IV. and finished by his 
 son and grandson, is a superb, but mixed structure. The 
 cornices, mouldings, and compartments, with the inser- 
 tion of several coloured marbles, have been of great 
 expense. 
 
 We went through the long gallery, paved with white 
 and black marble, richly fretted and painted a fresco. 
 The front looking to the river, though of rare work for 
 the caning, yet wants of that magnificence which a 
 plainer and truer design would have contributed to it. 
 
 In the Cour aux Tuileries is a princely fabric; the 
 winding geometrical stone stairs, with the cupola, I take 
 to be as bold and noble a piece of architecture, as any 
 in Europe of the kind. To this is a corps de logis, 
 worthy of so great a prince. Under these buildings, 
 through a garden in which is an ample fountain, was the 
 king's printing-house, and that famous letter so much 
 esteemed. Here I bought divers of the classic authors, 
 poets, and others. 
 
 We returned through another gallery, larger, but not 
 so long, where hung the pictures of all the kings and 
 queens and prime nobility of France. 
 
 Descending hence, we were let into a lower very large 
 room, called the Salle des Antiques, which is a vaulted 
 Cimelia, destined for statues only, amongst which stands
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 51 
 
 that so celebrated Diana of the Ephesians, said to be the 
 same which uttered oracles in that renowned Temple. 
 Besides those colossean figures of marble, I must not 
 forget the huge globe suspended by chains. The pav- 
 ings, inlayings, and incrustations of this Hall, are very 
 rich. 
 
 In another more private garden towards the Queen's 
 apartment is a walk, or cloister, under arches, whose terrace 
 is paved with stones of a great breadth ; it looks towards the 
 river, and has a pleasant aviary, fountain, stately cypresses, 
 &c. On the river are seen a prodigious number of barges 
 and boats of great length, full of hay, corn, wood, wine, 
 and other commodities, which this vast city daily con- 
 sumes. Under the long gallery we have described, dwell 
 goldsmiths, painters, statuaries, and architects, who being 
 the most famous for their art in Christendom, have sti- 
 pends allowed them by the King. Into that of Monsieur 
 Saracin we entered, who was then moulding for an image 
 of a Madonna to be cast in gold of a great size, to be sent 
 by the Queen Regent to Loretto, as an offering for the 
 birth of the Dauphin, now the young King. 
 
 I finished this day with a walk in the great garden of 
 the Tuileries, rarely contrived for privacy, shade, or com- 
 pany, by groves, plantations of tall trees, especially that 
 in the middle, being of elms, the other of mulberries ; and 
 that lybrinth of cypresses ; not omitting the noble hedges 
 of pomegranates, fountains, fish-ponds, and an aviary; 
 but, above all, the artificial echo, redoubling the words so 
 distinctly; and, as it is never without some fair nymph 
 singing to its grateful returns ; standing at one of the 
 focuses, which is under a tree, or little cabinet of hedges, 
 the voice seems to descend from the clouds ; at another, 
 as if it was underground. This being at the bottom of 
 the garden, we were let into another, which being kept 
 with all imaginable accurateness as to the orangery, pre- 
 cious shrubs, and rare fruits, seemed a Paradise. From a 
 terrace in this place we saw so many coaches, as one would 
 hardly think could be maintained in the whole city, going, 
 late as it was in the year, towards the Course, which is a 
 place adjoining, of near an English mile long, planted 
 with four rows of trees, making a large circle in the 
 middle. This course is walled about, near breast high, 
 
 E 2
 
 52 DIARY OF [ST. CLOUD, 
 
 with squared freestone, and has a stately arch at the 
 entrance, with sculpture and statues about it, built by 
 Mary di Medicis. Here it is that the gallants and ladies 
 of the Court take the air and divert themselves, as with 
 us in Hyde Park, the circle being capable of containing 
 a hundred coaches to turn commodiously, and the 
 larger of the plantations for five or six coaches a-breast. 
 
 Returning through the Tuileries, we saw a building in 
 which are kept wild beasts for the King's pleasure, a bear, 
 a wolf, a wild boar, a leopard, &c. 
 
 27th . Accompanied with some English gentle- 
 men, we took horse to see St. Germains-en-Laye, a stately- 
 country-house of the King, some five leagues from Paris. 
 By the way, we alighted at St. Cloud, where, on an 
 eminence near the river, the Archbishop of Paris has a 
 garden, for the house is not very considerable, rarely 
 watered and furnished with fountains, statues, and groves; 
 the walks are very fair ; the fountain of Laocoon is in a 
 large square pool, throwing the water near forty feet high, 
 and having about it a multitude of statues and basins, 
 and is a surprising object. But nothing is more esteemed 
 than the cascade falling from the great steps into the 
 lowest and longest walk from the Mount Parnassus, which 
 consists of a grotto, or shell-house, on the summit of the 
 hill, wherein are divers waterworks and contrivances to 
 wet the spectators ; this is covered with a fair cupola, the 
 walls painted with the Muses, and statues placed thick 
 about it, whereof some are antique and good. In the 
 upper walks are two perspectives, seeming to enlarge the 
 alleys, and in this garden are many other ingenious con- 
 trivances. The palace, as I said, is not extraordinary. 
 The outer walls only painted a fresco. In the court is a 
 Volary, and the statues of Charles IX., Henry III., IV., 
 and Louis XIII. on horseback, mezzo-relievo' d in plaster. 
 In the garden is a small chapel ; and under shelter is the 
 figure of Cleopatra, taken from the Belvidere original, 
 with others. From the terrace above is a tempest well 
 painted ; and thence an excellent prospect towards Paris, 
 the meadows, and river. 
 
 At an inn in this village is a host who treats all the 
 great persons in princely lodgings for furniture and plate, 
 but they pay well for it, as I have done. Indeed, the
 
 1U44.] JOHN EVELYN. 53 
 
 entertainment is very splendid, and not unreasonable, 
 considering the excellent manner of dressing their meat, 
 and of the service. Here are many debauches and 
 excessive revellings, as being out of all noise and 
 observance. 
 
 From hence, about a league farther, we went to see 
 Cardinal Richelieu's villa, at Ruell. The house is small, 
 but fairly built, in form of a castle, moated round. The 
 offices are towards the road, and over-against it are large 
 vineyards, walled in. But, though the house is not of the 
 greatest, the gardens about it are so magnificent, that I 
 doubt whether Italy has any exceeding it for all rarities 
 of pleasure. The garden nearest the pavilion is a parterre, 
 having in the midst divers noble brass statues, perpetually 
 spouting water into an ample basin, with other figures of 
 the same metal ; but what is most admirable is the vast 
 inclosure, and variety of ground, in the large garden, con- 
 taining vineyards, corn-fields, meadows, groves (whereof 
 one is of perennial greens), and walks of vast length, so 
 accurately kept and cultivated, that nothing can be more 
 agreeable. On one of these walks, within a square of tall 
 trees, is a basilisk* of copper, which, managed by the 
 fountaineer, casts water near sixty feet high, and will of 
 itself move round so swiftly, that one can hardly escape 
 wetting. This leads to the Citronire, which is a noble 
 conserve of all those rarities ; and at the end of it is the 
 Arch of Constantine, painted on a wall in oil, as large as 
 the real one at Rome, so well done, that even a man 
 skilled in painting, may mistake it for stone and sculpture. 
 The sky and hills, which seem to be between the arches, 
 are so natural, that swallows and other birds, thinking to 
 fly through, have dashed themselves against the wall. I 
 was infinitely taken with this agreeable cheat. At the 
 further part of this walk is that plentiful, though artificial 
 cascade, which rolls down a very steep declivity, and over 
 the marble steps and basins, with an astonishing noise 
 and fury; each basin hath a jetto in it, flowing like sheets 
 of transparent glass, especially that which rises over the 
 great shell of lead, from whence it glides silently down 
 a channel through the middle of a spacious gravel walk, 
 terminating in a grotto. Here are also fountains that 
 
 * The imaginary animal, or serpent, so called.
 
 54, DIARY OP [ST. GEHMAINS, 
 
 cast water to a great height, and large ponds, two of 
 which have islands for harbour of fowls, of which there 
 is store. One of these islands has a receptacle for them 
 built of vast pieces of rock, near fifty feet high, grown 
 over with moss, ivy, &c., shaded at a competent distance 
 with tall trees : in this rupellary nidary do the fowl lay 
 eggs, and breed. We then saw a large and very rare 
 grotto of shell-work, in the shape of Satyrs, and other wild 
 fancies : in the middle stands a marble table, on which a 
 fountain plays in divers forms of glasses, cups, crosses, 
 fans, crowns, &c. Then the fountaineer represented a 
 shower of rain from the top, met by small jets from below. 
 At going out, two extravagant musketeers shot us with a 
 stream of water from their musket barrels. Before this- 
 grotto is a long pool into which ran divers spouts of water 
 from leaden escalop basins. The viewing this paradise 
 made us late at St. Germains. 
 
 The first building of this palace is of Charles V., called 
 the Sage; but Francis I. (that true virtuoso) made it 
 complete ; speaking as to the style of magnificence then 
 in fashion, which was with too great a mixture of the 
 Gothic, as may be seen in what there is remaining of his 
 in the old Castle, an irregular piece as built on the old 
 foundation, and having a moat about it. It has yet some 
 spacious and handsome rooms of state, and a chapel neatly 
 painted. The new Castle is at some distance, divided 
 from this by a court, of a lower, but more modern design, 
 built by Henry IV. To this belong six terraces, built of 
 brick and stone, descending in cascades towards the river, 
 cut out of the natural hill, having under them goodly 
 vaulted galleries; of these, four have subterranean grots 
 and rocks, where are represented several objects in the 
 manner of scenes and other motions, by force of water,, 
 shown by the light of torches only ; amongst these, is 
 Orpheus with his music, and the animals, which dance 
 after his harp ; in the second, is the King ,and Dolphin ; * 
 in the third, is Neptune sounding his trumpet, his chariot 
 drawn by sea-horses ; in the fourth, the story of Perseus 
 and Andromeda ; mills ; hermitages ; men fishing ; birds 
 chirping; and many other devices. There is also a dry 
 grot to refresh in ; all having a fine prospect towards the 
 
 * Dauphin.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 55 
 
 river, and the goodly country about it, especially the forest. 
 At the bottom, is a parterre ; the upper terrace near half 
 a mile in length, with double declivities, arched and 
 balustered with stone, of vast and royal cost. 
 
 In the pavilion of the new Castle are many fair rooms, 
 well painted, and leading into a very noble garden and park, 
 where is a pall-mall, in the midst of which, on one of the 
 sides, is a chapel, with stone cupola, though small, yet of 
 a handsome order of architecture. Out of the park you 
 go into the forest, which being very large, is stored with 
 deer, wild boars, wolves, and other wild game. The Tennis 
 Court, and Cavallerizzo, for the menaged horses, are also 
 observable. 
 
 We returned to Paris by Madrid, another villa of the 
 King's, built by Francis I. and called by that name to 
 absolve him of his oath that he would not go from Madrid 
 (in which he was prisoner), in Spain, but from whence he 
 made his escape. This house is also built in a park, and 
 walled in. We next called in at the Bonnes-homines, 
 well-situated, wih a fair chapel and library. 
 
 1 March. I went to see the Count de Liancourt's Palace 
 in the Rue de Seine, which is well built. Towards his 
 study and bedchamber joins a little garden, which, though 
 very narrow, by the addition of a well-painted perspective, 
 is to appearance greatly enlarged ; to this there is another 
 part, supported by arches, in which runs a stream of 
 water, rising in the aviary, out of a statue, and seeming to 
 flow for some miles, by being artificially continued in the 
 painting, when it sinks down at the wall. It is a very 
 agreeable deceit. At the end of this garden, is a little 
 theatre, made to change with divers pretty scenes, and 
 the stage so ordered, with figures of men and women 
 painted on light boards, and cut out, and, by a person 
 who stands underneath, made to act as if they were speak- 
 ing, by guiding them, and reciting words in different tones, 
 as the parts require. We were led into a round cabinet, 
 where was a neat invention for reflecting lights, by lining 
 divers sconces with thin shining plates of gilded copper. 
 
 In one of the rooms of state was an excellent painting 
 of Poussin, being a Satyr kneeling; over the chimney, 
 the Coronation of the Virgin, by Paulo Veronese ; another 
 Madonna over the door, and that of Joseph, by Cigali ; in
 
 56 DIARY OF [CHARENTON, 
 
 the Hall, a Cavaliero di Malta, attended by his page, said 
 to be of Michael Angelo ; the Rape of Proserpine, with a 
 very large landscape of Correggio. In the next room, are 
 some paintings of Primaticcio, especially the Helena, the 
 naked Lady brought before Alexander, well-painted, and 
 a Ceres. In the bed-chamber a picture of the Cardinal 
 de Liancourt, of Raphael, rarely coloured. In the cabinet 
 are divers pieces of Bassano, two of Polemburg, four of 
 Paulo Brill, the skies a little too blue. A Madonna of 
 Nicholao, excellently painted on a stone; a Judith of 
 Mantegna ; three women of Jeronimo ; one of Stenwick ; 
 a Madonna after Titian, and a Magdalen of the same 
 hand, as the Count esteems it : two small pieces of Paulo 
 Veronese, being the Martyrdoms of St. Justina and St. 
 Catherine ; a Madonna of Lucas Van Leyden, sent him 
 from our King ; six more of old Bassano ; two excellent 
 drawings of Albert ; a Magdalen of Leonardo da Vinci ; 
 four of Paulo ; a very rare Madonna of Titian, given him 
 also by our King ; the Ecce Homo, shut up in a frame of 
 velvet, for the life and accurate finishing exceeding all 
 description. Some curious agates, and a chaplet of ad- 
 mirable invention, the intaglios being all on fruit stones. 
 The Count was so exceeding civil, that he would needs 
 make his Lady go out of her dressing-room, that he might 
 show us the curiosities and pictures in it. 
 
 We went thence to visit one Monsieur Perishot, one of 
 the greatest virtuosos in France, for his collection of pic- 
 tures, agates, medals, and flowers, especially tulips and 
 anemonies. The chiefest of his paintings was a Sebastian, 
 of Titian. 
 
 From him we went to Monsieur Frene's, who shewed 
 us many rare drawings, a Rape of Helen in black chalk ; 
 many excellent things of Sneiders. all naked; some of 
 Julio and Michael Angelo; a Madonna of Passignano; 
 some things of Parmensis, and other masters. 
 
 The next morning, being recommended to one Monsieur 
 de Hausse, President du Parliament, and once Ambas- 
 sador at Venice for the French King, we were very civilly 
 received, and shewed his library. Amongst his paintings 
 were, a rare Venus and Adonis of Veronese, a St. Anthony, 
 after the first manner of Correggio, and a rare Madonna 
 of Palma.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 57 
 
 Sunday, the 6th. I went to Charenton, two leagues 
 from Paris, to hear and see the manner of the French 
 Protestant Church service. The place of meeting they 
 call the Temple, a very fair and spacious room, built of 
 freestone, very decently adorned with paintings of the 
 Tables of the Law, the Lord's Prayer, and Creed. The 
 pulpit stands at the upper end in the middle, having an 
 inclosure of seats about it, where the Elders, and persons 
 of greatest quality and strangers, sit ; the rest of the con- 
 gregation on forms and low stools, but none in pews, as 
 in our churches, to their great disgrace, and nothing so 
 orderly, as here the stools and other cumber are removed 
 when the assembly rises. I was greatly pleased with their 
 harmonious singing the Psalms, which they all learn per- 
 fectly well, their children being as duly taught these, as 
 their catechism. 
 
 In our passage, we went by that famous bridge over the 
 Marne, where that renowned echo returns the voice of a 
 good singer nine or ten times. 
 
 7th . I set forwards with some company towards 
 
 Fontainebleau, a sumptuous Palace of the King's, like ours 
 at Hampton Court, about fourteen leagues from the city. 
 By the way, we pass through a forest so prodigiously 
 encompassed with hideous rocks of whitish hard stone, 
 heaped one on another in mountainous heights, that I 
 think the like is nowhere to be found more horrid and 
 solitary. It abounds with stags, wolves, boars, and not 
 long after a lynx, or ounce, was killed amongst them, which 
 had devoured some passengers. On the summit of one of 
 these gloomy precipices, intermingled with trees and 
 shrubs, the stones hanging over, and menacing ruin, is 
 built an hermitage. In these solitudes, rogues frequently 
 lurk and do mischief (and for whom we were all well 
 appointed with our carabines) ; but we arrived save in the 
 evening at the village, where we lay at the Home, going 
 early next morning to the Palace. 
 
 This House is nothing so stately and uniform as Hamp- 
 ton-Court, but Francis I. began much to beautify it; 
 most of all Henry IV. (and not a little) the late King. 
 It abounds with fair halls, chambers, and galleries; in 
 the longest, which is 360 feet long, and 18 broad, are 
 painted the Victories of that great Prince, Henry IV.
 
 58 DIARY OP [FONTAINEBLEAU, 
 
 That of Francis I. called the grand Gallery, has all the 
 King's Palaces painted in it ; above these, in sixty pieces 
 of excellent work in fresco, is the History of Ulysses, 
 from Homer, by Primaticcio, in the time of Henry III., 
 esteemed the most renowned in Europe for the design. 
 The Cabinet is full of excellent pictures, especially a 
 Woman, of Raphael. In the Hall of the Guards is a 
 piece of tapestry painted on the wall, very naturally, re- 
 presenting the Victories of Charles VII. over our country- 
 men. In the Salle des Festins is a rare Chimney-piece, 
 and Henry IV. on horseback, of white marble, esteemed 
 worth 18,000 crowns; dementia and Pax, nobly done. 
 On columns of jasper, two lions of brass. The new stairs, 
 and a half circular court, are of modern and good archi- 
 tecture, as is a chapel built by Louis XIII., all of jasper, 
 with several incrustations of marble through the inside. 
 
 Having seen the rooms, we went to the volary, which has 
 a cupola in the middle of it, great trees and bushes, it 
 being full of birds who drank at two fountains. There is 
 also a fair tennis-court, and noble stables ; but the beauty 
 of all are the gardens. In the Court of the Fountains 
 stand divers antiquities and statues; especially a Mercury. 
 In the Queen's Garden is a Diana ejecting a fountain, 
 with numerous other brass statues. 
 
 The great Garden, 180 toises long and 154 wide, has in 
 the centre a fountain of Tyber of a Colossean figure of 
 brass, with the Wolf over Romulus and Remus. At each 
 corner of the garden rises a fountain. In the garden of 
 the piscina, is a Hercules of white marble : next, is that of 
 the pines, and without that a canal of an English mile in 
 length, at the end of which rise three jettos in the form 
 of a fleur-de-lis, of a great height; on the margin are 
 excellent walks planted with trees. The carps come 
 familiarly to hand [to be fed] . Hence, they brought us 
 to a spring, which they say being first discovered by a 
 dog, gave occasion of beautifying this place, both with the 
 palace and gardens. The white and terrific rocks at some 
 distance in the forest, yield one of the most august and 
 stupendous prospects imaginable. The park about this 
 place is very large, and the town full of noblemen's 
 houses. 
 
 Next morning, we were invited by a painter, who was
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 59 
 
 keeper of the pictures and rarities, to see his own col- 
 lection. We were led through a gallery of old Rosso's 
 work, at the end of which, in another cabinet, were three 
 Madonnas of Raphael, and two of Andrea del Sarto. In 
 the Academy where the Painter himself wrought, was a 
 St. Michael, of Raphael, very rare; St. John Baptist, of 
 Leonardo, and a Woman's head ; a Queen of Sicily, and 
 St. Margaret, of Raphael ; two more Madonnas, whereof 
 one very large, by the same hand; some more of del 
 Sarto; a St. Jerome, of Perino del Vaga; the Rape of 
 Proserpine, very good ; and a great number of drawings. 
 
 Returning part of our way to Paris, that day, we visited 
 a house called Maison Rouge, having an excellent prospect, 
 grot, and fountains, one whereof rises fifty feet,and resem- 
 bles the noise of a tempest, battles of guns, &c. at its issue. 
 
 Thence to Essone, a house of Monsieur Essling, who is 
 a great virtuoso; there are many good paintings in it; but 
 nothing so observable as his gardens, fountains, fish-pools, 
 especially that in a triangular form, the water cast out by 
 a multitude of heads about it ; there is a noble cascade 
 and pretty baths, with all accommodations. Under a 
 marble table is a fountain of serpents twisting about a 
 globe. 
 
 We alighted next at Corbeil, a town famous for the siege 
 by Henry IV. Here we slept, and returned next morning 
 to Paris. 
 
 18th . I went with Sir J. Cotton, a Cambridge- 
 shire Knight, a journey into Normandy. The first day, we 
 passed by Gaillon, the Archbishop of Rouen's Palace. The 
 gardens are highly commended, but we did not go in, 
 intending to reach Pontoise, by dinner. This town is 
 built in a very gallant place, has a noble bridge over the 
 Oise, and is well refreshed with fountains. 
 
 This is the first town in Normandy, and the farthest 
 that the vineyards extend to on this side of the country, 
 which is fuller of plains, wood, and enclosures, with some 
 towns towards the sea, very like England. 
 
 We lay this night at a village, called Magny. The next 
 day, descending a very steep hill, we dined at Fleury, 
 after riding five leagues down St. Catherine, to Rouen, 
 which affords a goodly prospect, to the ruins of that 
 chapel and mountain. This country so abounds with
 
 6Q DIARY OF . [ROUEN, 
 
 wolves, that a shepherd whom we met, told us one of his 
 companions was strangled by one of them the day before, 
 and that in the midst of his flock. The fields are mostly 
 planted with pears and apples, and other cider fruits. It 
 is plentifully furnished with quarries of stone and slate, 
 and hath iron in abundance. 
 
 I lay at the White Cross, in Rouen, which is a very 
 large city, on the Seine, having two smaller rivers besides, 
 called the Aubette and Robec. There stand yet the ruins 
 of a magnificent bridge of stone, now supplied by one of 
 boats only, to which come up vessels of considerable bur- 
 then. The other side of the water consists of meadows, 
 and there have the Reformed a Church. 
 
 The Cathedral Notre Dame was built, as they acknow- 
 ledge, by the English; some English words graven in 
 Gothic characters upon the front seem to confirm it. The 
 towers and whole church are full of carving. It has three 
 steeples, with a pyramid ; in one of these, I saw the famous 
 cell so much talked of, thirteen feet in height, thirty -two 
 round, the diameter eleven, weighing 40,000 pounds. 
 
 In the Chapel d'Amboise, built by a Cardinal of that 
 name, lies his body, with several fair monuments. The 
 Choir has behind it a great dragon painted on the wall, 
 which they say had done much harm to the inhabitants, 
 till vanquished by St. Romain, their Archbishop ; for which 
 there is an annual procession. It was now near Easter, 
 and many images were exposed with scenes and stories 
 representing the Passion; made up of little puppets, to 
 which there was great resort and devotion, with offerings. 
 Before the church is a fair palace. St. Ouen is another 
 goodly church and an abbey with fine gardens. Here the 
 King hath lodgings, when he makes his progress through 
 these parts. The structure, where the Court of Parliament 
 is kept, is very magnificent, containing very fair halls and 
 chambers, especially La Chambre Doree. The town- 
 house is also well built, and so are some gentlemen's 
 houses ; but most part of the rest are of timber, like our 
 merchants' in London, in the wooden part of the city. 
 
 21st . On Easter Monday, we dined at Totes, a 
 
 solitary inn between Rouen and Dieppe, at which latter 
 place we arrived. This town is situated between two
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 61 
 
 mountains, not unpleasantly, and is washed on the north 
 by our English seas. 
 
 The port is commodious ; but the entrance difficult. It 
 has one very ample and fair street, in which is a pretty 
 church. The Fort Pollet consists of a strong earth- work, 
 and commands the haven, as on the other side does the 
 castle, which is also well fortified, with the citadel before 
 it ; nor is the town itself a little strong. It abounds with 
 workmen, who make and sell curiosities of ivory and 
 tortoise-shells; and indeed whatever the East Indies 
 afford of cabinets, porcelain, natural and exotic rarities, 
 are here to be had, with abundant choice. 
 
 23rd. We passed along the coast by a very rocky and 
 rugged way, which forced us to alight many times before 
 we came to Havre de Grace, where we lay that night. 
 
 The next morning, we saw the citadel, strong and 
 regular, well stored with artillery and ammunition of all 
 sorts : the works furnished with fair brass cannon, having 
 a motto, Ratio ultima Regum. The allogements of the 
 garrison are uniform; a spacious place for drawing up 
 the soldiers, a pretty chapel, and a fair house for the 
 Governor. The Duke of Richelieu being now in the 
 fort, we went to salute him ; who received us very civilly, 
 and commanded that we should be shewed whatever we 
 desired to see. The citadel was built by the late Cardinal 
 de Richelieu, uncle of the present Duke, and may be 
 esteemed one of the strongest in France. The haven is 
 very capacious. 
 
 When we had done here, we embarked ourselves and 
 horses to pass to Honfleur, about four or five leagues 
 distant, where the Seine falls into the sea. It is a poor 
 fisher-town, remarkable for nothing so much as the odd, 
 yet useful habits which the good women wear, of bears' 
 and other skins, as of rugs at Dieppe, and all along these 
 maritime coasts. 
 
 25th. We arrived at Caen, a noble and beautiful 
 town, situate on the river Orne, which passes quite 
 through it, the two sides of the town joined only by a 
 bridge of one entire arch. We lay at the Angel, where 
 we were very well used, the place being abundantly 
 furnished with provisions, at a cheap rate. The most 
 considerable object is the great Abbey and Church, large
 
 Q2 DIARY OF [CAEN, 
 
 and rich, built after the Gothic manner, having two 
 spires and middle lantern at the west end, all of stone. 
 The choir round and large, in the centre whereof, elevated 
 on a square, handsome, but plain sepulchre, is this 
 incription : 
 
 " Hoc sepulchrum invictissimi juxta et clementissimi conquestoris, 
 Gulielrai, dum viverat Anglorum Regis, Normannorum Cenomanno- 
 rumque Principis, hujus insignis Abbatiae piissimi Fundatoris : Cum 
 anno 1562 vesano haereticorum furore direptum fuisset, pio tandem 
 nobilium ejusdem Abbatiae religiosorum gratitudinis sensu in tarn 
 beneficum largitorem, instauratum fuit, a D'ai 1642. D'no Johanne 
 de Bailhache Assaetorii proto priore. D. D." 
 
 On the other side are these monkish rhymes : 
 
 " Qui rexit rigidos Northmannos, atq. Britannos 
 
 Audacter vicit, fortiter obtinuit, 
 Et Cenomanensis virtute coercuit ensis, 
 
 Imperiique sui Legibus applicuit. 
 Rex magnus parva jacet hac Gulielm' in Urna, 
 
 Sufficit et magno parva domus Domino. 
 Ter septem gradibus te volverat atq. duobus 
 
 Virginis in gremio Phoebus, et hie obiit." 
 
 We went to the castle, which is strong and fair, and so 
 is the town-house, built on the bridge which unites the 
 two towns. Here are schools and an University for the 
 Jurists. 
 
 The whole town is handsomely built of that excellent 
 stone so well known by that name in England. I was led 
 to a pretty garden, planted with hedges of alaternus, 
 having at the entrance a skreen at an exceeding height, 
 accurately cut in topiary work, with well-understood 
 architecture, consisting of pillars, niches, friezes, and 
 other ornaments, with great curiosity; some of the 
 columns curiously wreathed, others spiral, all according 
 to art. 
 
 28th. We went towards Paris, lying the first night 
 at Evreux, a Bishop's seat, an ancient town, with a fair 
 cathedral ; so the next day we arrived at Paris. 
 
 1st April. I went to see more exactly the rooms of the 
 fine Palace of Luxemburg, in the Fauxbourg St. Germains, 
 built by Mary di Medicis, and I think one of the most 
 noble, entire, and finished piles that is to be seen, taking 
 it with the garden and all its accomplishments. The
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 63 
 
 gallery is of the painting of Rubens, being the history 
 of the Foundress's Life, rarely designed ; at the end of 
 it is 'the Duke of Orleans' library, well furnished with 
 excellent books, all bound in maroquin and gilded, the 
 valance of the shelves being of green velvet, fringed with 
 gold. In the cabinet joining to it are only the smaller 
 volumes, with six cabinets of medals, and an excellent 
 collection of shells and agates, whereof some are pro- 
 digiously rich. This Duke being very learned in medals 
 and plants, nothing of that kind escapes him. There are 
 other spacious, noble, and princely furnished rooms, which 
 look towards the gardens, which are nothing inferior to 
 the rest. 
 
 The court below is formed into a square by a corridor, 
 having over the chief entrance a stately cupola, covered 
 with stone ; the rest is cloistered and arched on pilasters 
 of rustic work. The terrace ascending before the front, 
 paved with white and black marble, is balustered with 
 white marble, exquisitely polished. 
 
 Only the hall below is low, and the staircase somewhat 
 of a heavy design, but the faccia towards the parterre, 
 which is also arched and vaulted with stone, is of 
 admirable beauty, and full of sculpture. 
 ,, The gardens are near an English mile in compass, 
 enclosed with a stately wall, and in a good air. The 
 parterre is indeed of box, but so rarely designed and 
 accurately kept cut, that the embroidery makes a won- 
 derful effect to the lodgings which front it. 'Tis divided 
 into four squares, and as many circular knots, having in 
 the centre a noble basin of marble near thirty feet 
 diameter (as I remember), in which a Triton of brass 
 holds a dolphin, that casts a girandola of water near thirty 
 feet high, playing perpetually, the water being conveyed 
 from Arceuil by an. aqueduct of stone, built after the old 
 Roman magnificence. About this ample parterre, the 
 spacious walks and all included, runs a border of freestone, 
 adorned with pedestals for pots and statues, and part of it 
 near the steps of the terrace, with a rail and baluster of 
 pure white marble. 
 
 The walks are exactly fair, long, and variously descend- 
 ing, and so justly planted with limes, elms, and other 
 trees, that nothing can be more delicious, especially that
 
 64, DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 of the horn-beam hedge, which being high and stately, 
 buts full on the fountain. 
 
 Towards the farther end, is an excavation intended for 
 a vast fish-pool, but never finished, and near it is an 
 inclosure for a garden of simples, well-kept ; and here the 
 Duke keeps tortoises in great number, who use the pool 
 of water on one side of the garden. Here is also a con- 
 servatory for snow. At the upper part, towards the palace, 
 is a grove of tall elms cut into a star, every ray being a 
 walk, whose centre is a large fountain. 
 
 The rest of the ground is made into several inclosures 
 (all hedge-work or rows of trees) of whole fields, meadows, 
 bocages, some of them containing divers -t>cres. 
 
 Next the street side, and more contiguous to the house, 
 are knots in trail, or grass work, where likewise runs a 
 fountain. Towards the grotto and stables, within a wall, is 
 a garden of choice flowers, in which the Duke spends many 
 thousand pistoles. In sum, nothing is wanting to render 
 this palace and gardens perfectly beautiful and magni- 
 ficent; nor is it one of the least diversions to see the 
 number of persons of quality, citizens and strangers, who 
 frequent it, and to whom all access is freely permitted, 
 so that you shall see some walks and retirements full of 
 gallants and ladies ; in others, melancholy friars ; in others, 
 studious scholars ; in others, jolly citizens, some sitting or 
 lying on the grass, others running and jumping; some 
 playing at bowls and ball, others dancing and singing; 
 and all this without the least disturbance, by reason of the 
 largeness of the place. 
 
 What is most admirable, you see no gardeners, or men 
 at work, and yet all is kept in such exquisite order, as if 
 they did nothing else but work ; it is so early in the 
 morning, that all is dispatched and done without the least 
 confusion. 
 
 I have been the larger in the description of this para- 
 dise, for the extraordinary delight I have taken in those 
 sweet retirements. The Cabinet and Chapel nearer the 
 garden-front have some choice pictures. All the houses 
 near this are also very noble palaces, especially Petite 
 Luxemburg. The ascent of the street is handsome from 
 its breadth, situation, and buildings. 
 
 I went next to view Paris from the top of St. Jacques'
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 65 
 
 steeple, esteemed the highest in the town, from whence I 
 had a full view of the whole city and suburbs, both which, 
 as I judge, are not so large as London : though the dis- 
 similitude of their several forms and situations, this being 
 round, London long, renders it difficult to determine; 
 but there is no comparison between the buildings, palaces, 
 and materials, this being entirely of stone and more 
 ^sumptuous, though I esteem our piazzas to exceed theirs. 
 
 Hence I took a turn in St. Innocent's churchyard, 
 where the story of the devouring quality of the ground 
 (consuming bodies in twenty -four hours), the vast charnels 
 of bones, tombs, pyramids, and sepulchres, took up much 
 of my time, together with the hieroglyphical characters of 
 Nicholas Flamel's philosophical work, who had founded 
 this church, and divers other charitable establishments, as 
 he testifies in his book. 
 
 Here divers clerks get their livelihood by inditing letters 
 for poor maids and other ignorant people who come to 
 them for advice, and to write for them into the country, 
 both to their sweethearts, parents, and friends; every 
 large grave-stone serving for a table. Joining to this 
 church is a common fountain, with good relievos upon it. 
 
 The next day, I was carried to see a French gentleman's 
 curious collection, which abounded in fair and rich jewels 
 of all sorts of precious stones, most of them of great sizes 
 and value; agates and onyxes, some of them admirably 
 coloured and antique; nor inferior were his landscapes 
 from the best hands, most of which he had caused to 
 be copied in miniature ; one of which, rarely painted on 
 stone, was broken by one of our company, by the mis- 
 chance of setting it up : but such was the temper and 
 civility of the gentleman, that it altered nothing of his 
 free and noble humour. 
 
 The next morning, I was had by a friend to the garden 
 of Monsieur Morine, who, from being an ordinary gardener, 
 is become one of the most skilful and curious persons 
 in France for his rare collection of shells, flowers, and 
 insects. 
 
 His garden is of an exact oval figure, planted with 
 cypress, cut flat and set as even as a wall : the tulips, 
 anemones, ranunculuses, crocuses, &c., are held to be of 
 the rarest, and draw all the admirers of that kind to his 
 
 VOL. I. F
 
 66 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 house during the season. He lived in a kind of hermitage 
 at one side of his garden, where his collection of porcelain 
 and coral, whereof one is carved into a large crucifix, is 
 much esteemed. He has also books of prints, by Albert 
 [Durer], Van Leyden, Callot, &c. His collection of all 
 sorts of insects, especially of butterflies, is most curious; 
 these he spreads and so medicates, that no corruption 
 invading them, he keeps them in drawers, so placed as to 
 represent a beautiful piece of tapestry. 
 
 He shewed me the remarks he had made on their pro- 
 pagation, which he promised to publish. Some of these,, 
 as also of his best flowers, he had caused to be painted in 
 miniature by rare hands, and some in oil. 
 
 6th April. I sent my sister my own picture in water- 
 colours, which she requested of me, and went to see divers 
 of the fairest palaces of the town, as that of Vendome, very 
 large and stately ; Longueville ; Guise ; Conde ; Chevereuse; 
 Nevers, esteemed one of the best in Paris towards the river. 
 
 I often went to the Palais Cardinal, bequeathed by 
 Richelieu to the King, on condition that it should be 
 called by his name ; at this time, the King resided in it, 
 because of the building of the Louvre. It is a very noble 
 house, though somewhat low; the galleries, paintings of 
 the most illustrious persons of both sexes, the Queen's 
 baths, presence-chamber with its rich carved and gilded 
 roof, theatre, and large garden, in which is an ample 
 fountain, grove, and mall, worthy of remark. Here I also 
 frequently went to see them ride and exercise the great 
 horse, especially at the Academy of Monsieur du Plessis, 
 and de Veau, whose schools of that art are frequented by 
 the nobility ; and here also young gentlemen are taught to/ 
 fence, dance, play on music, and something in fortification 
 and the mathematics. The design is admirable, some 
 keeping near a hundred brave horses, all managed to the 
 great saddle. 
 
 12th. I took coach, to see a general muster of all the 
 gens d'armes about the City, in the Bois de Boulogne, 
 before their Majesties, and all the Grandees. They were 
 reputed to be near 20,000, besides the spectators, who 
 much exceeded them in number. Here they performed 
 all their motions; and, being drawn up, horse and foot, 
 into several figures, represented a battle.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. QJ 
 
 The summer now drawing near, I determined to spend 
 the rest of it in some more remote town on the river 
 Loire ; and, on 19th April, I took leave of Paris, and, by 
 the way of the messenger, agreed for my passage to 
 Orleans. 
 
 The way from Paris to this city, as indeed most of the 
 roads in France, is paved with a small square freestone, so 
 that the country does not much molest the traveller with 
 dirt and ill way, as in England, only 'tis somewhat hard 
 to the poor horses' feet, which causes them to ride more 
 temperately, seldom going out of the trot, or grandpas, 
 as they call it. We passed divers walled towns, or villages; 
 amongst others of note, Chartres and Etampes, where we 
 lay the first night. This has a fair church. The next 
 day, we had an excellent road ; but had like to come short 
 home ; for, no sooner were we entered two or three leagues 
 into the Forest of Orleans (which extends itself many 
 miles), but the company behind us were set on by rogues, 
 who, shooting from the hedges and frequent covert, slew 
 four upon the spot. Amongst the slain, was a captain of 
 Swiss, of the regiment of Picardy, a person much lamented. 
 This disaster made such an alarm in Orleans at our 
 arrival, that the Prevot Marshal, with his assistants, going 
 in pursuit, brought in two whom they had shot, and 
 exposed them in the great market-place, to see if any 
 would take cognizance of them. I had great cause to 
 give God thanks for this escape ; when coming to Orleans 
 and lying at the White Cross, I found Mr. John Nicholas, 
 eldest son to Mr. Secretary. 
 
 21st. I went about to view the city, which is well 
 built of stone, on the side of the Loire. About the middle 
 of the river is an island, full of walks and fair trees, with 
 some houses. This is contiguous to the town by a stately 
 stone-bridge, reaching to the opposite suburbs, built like- 
 wise on the edge of a hill, from whence is a beautiful 
 prospect. At one of the extremes of the bridge are strong 
 towers, and about the middle, on one side, is the statue of 
 the Virgin Mary, or Pieta, with the dead Christ in her lap, 
 as big as the life. At one side of the cross, kneels Charles 
 VII. armed, and at the other Joan d'Arc, armed also like a 
 cavalier, with boots and spurs, her hair dishevelled, as the 
 deliveress of the town from our countrymen, when they
 
 gg DIARY OF [ORLEANS, 
 
 besieged it. The figures are all cast in copper, with a 
 pedestal full of inscriptions, as well as a fair column joining 
 it, which is all adorned with fleurs-de-lis and a crucifix, with 
 two saints proceeding (as it were) from two branches out 
 of its capital. The inscriptions on the cross are in Latin : 
 " Mors Christi in cruce nos a contagione labis et seternorum 
 morborum sanavit." On the pedestal : " Rex in hoc signo 
 hostes profligavit, et Johanna Virgo Aureliam obsidio 
 liberavit. Non diu ab impiis diruta, restituta sunt hoc 
 anno D'ni 1578. Jean Buret, m. f." " Octannoque 
 Oalliam senitute Britannica liberavit. A Domino factum 
 est illud, et est mirabile in oculis nostris ; in quorum 
 memoria hsec nostrae fidei Insignia." To this is made 
 an annual procession on 12th May, mass being sung 
 before it, attended with great ceremony and concourse of 
 people. The wine of this place is so strong, that the King's 
 cup-bearers are, as I was assured, sworn never to give the 
 King any of it ; but it is a very noble liquor, and much of 
 it transported into other countries. The town is much 
 frequented by strangers, especially Germans, for the 
 great purity of the language here spoken, as well as for 
 divers other privileges, and the University, which causes 
 the English to make no long sojourn here, except such as 
 can drink and debauch. The city stands in the county of 
 Bealse ; * was once styled a Kingdom, afterwards a Duchy, 
 as at present, belonging to the second son of France. 
 Many Councils have been held here, and some Kings 
 crowned. The University is very ancient, divided now by 
 the students into that of four nations, French, High Dutch, 
 Normans, and Picardines, who have each their respective 
 protectors, several officers, treasurers, consuls, seals, &c. 
 'There are in it two reasonable fair public libraries, 
 whence one may borrow a book to one's chamber, giving 
 but a note under hand, which is an extraordinary custom, 
 and a confidence that has cost many libraries dear. The 
 -first church I went to visit was St. Croix ; it has been a 
 stately fabric, but now much ruined by the late civil wars. 
 They report the tower of it to have been the highest in 
 France. There is the beginning of a fair reparation. 
 About this cathedral is a very spacious cemetery. The 
 town-house is also very nobly built, with a high tower to 
 
 * Blaisois.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. (59 
 
 it. The market-place and streets, some whereof are deli- 
 ciously planted with limes, are ample and straight, so well 
 paved with a kind of pebble, that I have not seen a neater 
 town in France. In fine, this city was by Francis I, 
 esteemed the most agreeable of his vast dominions. 
 
 28th. Taking boat on the Loire, I went towards 
 Blois, the passage and river being both very pleasant. 
 Passing Mehun, we dined at Baugenci, and slept at a 
 little town, called St. Dieu. Quitting our bark, we hired 
 horses to Blois, by the way of Chambord, a famous house 
 of the King's, built by Francis I. in the middle of a 
 solitary park, full of deer, enclosed with a wall. I was 
 particularly desirous of seeing this palace, from the ex- 
 travagance of the design, especially the stair-case, men- 
 tioned by Palladio. It is said that 1800 workmen were 
 constantly employed in this fabric for twelve years ; if so, 
 it is wonderful that it was not finished, it being no greater 
 than divers gentlemens' houses in England, both for room 
 and circuit. The carvings are indeed very rich and full. 
 The stair-case is devised with four entries, or ascents, 
 which cross one another, so that though four persons 
 meet, they never come in sight, but by small loop-holes, 
 till they land. It consists of 274 steps (as I remember), 
 and is an extraordinary work, but of far greater expense 
 than use or beauty. The chimneys of the house appear 
 like so many towers. About the whole is a large deep 
 moat. The country about is full of corn, and wine, with, 
 many fair noblemen's houses. 
 
 We arrived at Blois, in the evening. The town is hilly, 
 uneven, and rugged, standing on the side of the Loire, 
 having suburbs joined by a stately stone bridge, on which 
 is a pyramid with an inscription. At the entrance of the 
 castle is a stone statue of Louis XII. on horseback, as 
 large as life, under a Gothic state ; and a little below are 
 these words : 
 
 Hie ubi natus erat dextro Ludovicus Olympo, 
 
 Sumpsit honorata regia sceptra maim ; 
 Felix quae tanti fulsit Lux nuncia Regis ! 
 
 Gallica non alio principe digna fuit. 
 
 Under this is a very wide pair of gates, nailed full of 
 wolves and wild-boars' heads. Behind the castle the
 
 70 DIARY OP [BLOIS, 
 
 present Duke Gaston had begun a fair building, through 
 which we walked into a large garden, esteemed for its 
 furniture one of the fairest, especially for simples and exotic 
 plants, in which he takes extraordinary delight. On the 
 right hand, is a long gallery full of ancient statues and 
 inscriptions, both of marble and brass; the length, 300 
 paces, divides the garden into higher and lower ground, 
 having a very noble fountain. There is the portrait of a 
 hart, taken in the forest by Louis XII., which has twenty- 
 four antlers on its head. In the Collegiate Church of 
 St. Saviour, we saw many sepulchres of the Earls of Blois. 
 
 On Sunday, being May-day, we walked up into Pall 
 Mall, very long, and so noble shaded with tall trees 
 (being in the midst of a great wood), that unless that of 
 Tours, I had not seen a statelier. 
 
 From hence, we proceeded with a friend of mine through 
 the adjoining forest, to see if we could meet any wolves, 
 which are here in such numbers that they often come and 
 take children out of the very streets; yet will not the 
 Duke, who is sovereign here, permit them to be destroyed. 
 We walked five or six miles outright; but met with none; 
 yet a gentleman, who was resting himself under a tree, 
 with his horse grazing by him, told us that, half an hour 
 before, two wolves had set upon his horse, and had in 
 probability devoured him, but for a dog which lay by 
 him. At a little village at the end of this wood, we eat 
 excellent cream, and visited a castle builded on a very 
 steep cliff. 
 
 Blois is a town where the language is exactly spoken ; 
 the inhabitants very courteous ; the ah* so good, that it is 
 the ordinary nursery of the King's children. The people 
 are so ingenious, that, for goldsmiths' work and watches, 
 no place in France affords the like. The pastures by the 
 river are very rich and pleasant. 
 
 2nd May. We took boat again, passing by Channont, a 
 proud castle on the left hand ; before it is a sweet island, 
 deliciously shaded with tall trees. A little distance from 
 hence, we went on shore at Amboise, a very agreeable 
 village, built of stone, and the houses covered with blue 
 slate, as the towns on the Loire generally are; but the 
 castle chiefly invited us, the thickness of whose towers, 
 from the river to the top, was admirable. We entered by
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 71 
 
 the drawbridge, which has an invention to let one fall, if 
 not premonished. It is full of halls and spacious cham- 
 bers, and one stair-case is large enough, and sufficiently 
 commodious, to receive a coach, and land it on the very 
 tower, as they told us had been done. There is some 
 artillery in it : but that which is most observable is in the 
 ancient chapel, viz. a stag's head, or branches, hung up by 
 chains, consisting of twenty brow-antlers, the beam bigger 
 than a man's middle, and of an incredible length. Indeed, 
 it is monstrous, and yet I cannot conceive how it should 
 be artificial : they show also the ribs and vertebrae of the 
 same beast ; but these might be made of whalebone. 
 
 Leaving the castle, we passed Mont Louis, a village 
 having no houses above ground, but such only as are hewn 
 out of the main rocks of excellent freestone. Here and 
 there the funnel of a chimney appears on the surface 
 amongst the vineyards which are over them, and in this 
 manner they inhabit the caves, as it were sea-cliffs, on one 
 side of the river for many miles. 
 
 We now came within sight of Tours, where we were 
 designed for the rest of the time I had resolved to stay in 
 France, the sojournment being so agreeable. Tours is 
 situate on the easy side of a hill on the river Loire, having 
 a fair bridge of stone, called St. Edme; the streets are 
 very long, straight, spacious, well-built, and exceeding 
 clean ; the suburbs large and pleasant, joined to the city 
 by another bridge. Both the church and monastery of 
 St. Martin are large, of Gothic building, having four 
 square towers, fair organs, and a stately altar, where they 
 shew the bones and ashes of St. Martin, with other relics. 
 The Mall without comparison is the noblest in Europe 
 for length and shade, having seven rows of the tallest 
 and goodliest elms I had ever beheld, the innermost of 
 which do so embrace each other, and at such a height, 
 that nothing can be more solemn and majestical. Here 
 we played a party, or party or two, and then walked about 
 the town-walls, built of square stone, filled with earth, and 
 having a moat. No city in France exceeds it in beauty, 
 or delight, 
 
 6th. We went to St. Gatian, reported to have been 
 built by our countrymen; the dial and clock-work are 
 much esteemed. The church has two handsome towers
 
 72 DIARY OF [ST. GITIAN, 
 
 and spires of stone, and the whole fabric is very noble and 
 venerable. To this joins the Palace of the Archbishop, 
 consisting both of old and new building, with many fair 
 rooms, and a fair garden. Here I grew acquainted with 
 one Monsieur Merey, a very good musician. The Arch- 
 bishop treated me very courteously. We visited divers 
 other churches, chapels, and monasteries, for the most 
 part neatly built, and full of pretty paintings, especially 
 the Convent of the Capuchins, which has a prospect over 
 the whole city, and many fair walks. 
 
 8th. I went to see their manufactures in silk (for in 
 this town they drive a very considerable trade with silk- 
 worms), their pressing and watering the grograms and 
 camlets, with weights of an extraordinary poise, put into 
 a rolling-engine. Here I took a master of the language, 
 and studied the tongue very diligently, recreating myself 
 sometimes at the mall, and sometimes about the town. 
 The house opposite my lodging had been formerly a 
 King's palace; the outside was totally covered with fleur- 
 de-lis, embossed out of the stone. Here Mary de Medicis 
 held her Court, when she was compelled to retire from, 
 Paris by the persecution of the great Cardinal. 
 
 25th. Was the Fete Dieu, and a goodly procession of all 
 the religious orders, the whole streets hung with their 
 best tapestries, and their most precious moveables ex- 
 posed; silks, damasks, velvets, plate, and pictures in 
 abundance; the streets strewed with flowers, and full of 
 pageantry, banners, and bravery. 
 
 6th June. I went by water to visit that goodly and vener- 
 able Abbey of Marmoutiers, being one of the greatest in 
 the kingdom : to it is a very ample church of stone, with 
 a very high pyramid. Amongst other relics, the Monks 
 shewed us is the Holy Ampoulle, the same with that 
 which sacres their Kings at Rheims, this being the one 
 that anointed Henry IV. Ascending many steps, we 
 went into the Abbot's Palace, where we were shewed a 
 vast tun, (as big as that at Heidelberg), which they report 
 St. Martin (as I remember) filled from one cluster of 
 grapes growing there. 
 
 7th. We walked about two miles from the city to an 
 agreeable solitude, called Du Plessis, a house belonging to 
 the King. It has many pretty gardens, full of nightin-
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 7$ 
 
 gales : and, in the chapel, lies buried the famous poet, 
 Ronsard. 
 
 Returning, we stepped into a Convent of Franciscans, 
 called St. Cosmo, where the cloister is painted with the 
 miracles of their St. Francis a Paula, whose ashes lie in 
 their chapel, with this inscription : " Corpus Sancti Fran, 
 a Paula 1507. 13 Aprilis. concrematur vero ab Haereticis 
 anno 1562, cujus quidem ossa et cineres hie jacent." The 
 tomb has four small pyramids of marble at each corner. 
 
 9th. I was invited to a vineyard, which was so arti- 
 ficially planted and supported with arched poles, that 
 stooping down one might see from end to end, a very 
 great length, under the vines, the bunches hanging down 
 in abundance. 
 
 20th. We took horse to see certain natural caves, called 
 Gouttiere, near Colombiere, where there is a spring within 
 the bowels of the earth, very deep and so excessive cold, 
 that the drops meeting with some lapidescent matter, it 
 converts them into a hard stone, which hangs about it 
 like icicles, having many others in the form of comfitures 
 and sugar plums, as we call them. 
 
 Near this, we went under the ground almost two fur- 
 longs, lighted with candles, to see the source and spring 
 which serves the whole city, by a passage cut through the 
 main rock of freestone. 
 
 28th. I went to see the palace and gardens of Chevereux, 
 a sweet place. 
 
 30th. I walked through the vineyards as far as Roche 
 Corbe, to the ruins of an old and very strong castle said 
 to have been built by the English, of great height, on the 
 precipice of a dreadful cliff, from whence the country and 
 river yield a most incomparable prospect. 
 
 27th July. I heard excellent music at the Jesuits, who 
 have here a school and convent, but a mean chapel. We 
 had now store of those admirable melons, so much cele- 
 brated in France for the best in the kingdom. 
 
 1st August. My valet, one Garro, a Spaniard, born in 
 Biscay, having misbehaved, I was forced to discharge him ; 
 he demanded of me (besides his wages) no less than 100 
 crowns to carry him to his country ; refusing to pay it, as 
 no part of our agreement, he had the impudence to arrest 
 me ; the next day I was to appear in Court, where both
 
 74, DIARY OF [TOURS, 
 
 our avocats pleaded before the Lieutenant Civil: but it 
 was so unreasonable a pretence, that the Judge had not 
 patience to hear it out. The Judge immediately acquit- 
 ting me, after he had reproached the avocat who took part 
 with my servant, he rose from the Bench, and, making a 
 courteous excuse to me, that being a stranger I should be 
 so used, he conducted me through the court to the street- 
 door. This varlet afterwards threatened to pistol me. 
 The next day, I waited on the Lieutenant, to thank him 
 for his great civility. 
 
 18th. The Queen of England came to Tours, having 
 newly arrived in France, and going for Paris. She was 
 very nobly received by the people and clergy, who went to 
 meet her with th& trained bands. After the harangue, 
 the Archbishop entertained her at his Palace, where I 
 paid my duty to her. The 20th, she set forward to Paris. 
 
 8th September. Two of my kinsmen came from Paris to 
 this place, where I settled them in their pension and 
 exercises. 
 
 14th. We took post for Richelieu, passing by Tlsle 
 Bouchard, a village in the way. The next day, we ar- 
 rived, and went to see the Cardinal's Palace, near it. The 
 town is built in a low, marshy ground, having a narrow 
 river cut by hand, very even and straight, capable of 
 bringing up a small vessel. It consists of only one con- 
 siderable street, the houses on both sides (as indeed 
 throughout the town) built exactly uniform, after a modern 
 handsome design. It has a large goodly market-house 
 and place, opposite to which is the church built of free- 
 stone, having two pyramids of stone, which stand hollow 
 from the towers. The church is well-built, and of a 
 well-ordered architecture, within handsomely paved and 
 adorned. To this place belongs an Academy, where, 
 besides the exercise of the horse, arms, dancing, &c., all 
 the sciences are taught in the vulgar French by professors 
 stipendiated by the great Cardinal, who by this, the cheap 
 living there, and divers privileges, not only designed the 
 improvement of the vulgar language, but to draw people 
 and strangers to the town ; but since the Cardinal's death 
 it is thinly inhabited ; standing so much out of the way, 
 and in a place not well situated for health, or pleasure. 
 He was allured to build by the name of the place, and an
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 75 
 
 old house there belonging to his ancestors. This pretty 
 town is handsomely walled about and moated, with a kind 
 of slight fortification, two fair gates and draw-bridges. 
 Before the gate, towards the palace, is a spacious circle, 
 where the fair is annually kept. About a flight-shot from 
 the town is the Cardinal's house, a princely pile, though 
 on an old design, not altogether Gothic, but mixed, en- 
 vironed by a clear moat. The rooms are stately, most 
 richly furnished with tissue, damask, arras, and velvet, 
 pictures, statues, vases, and all sorts of antiquities, espe- 
 cially the Cffisars, in oriental alabaster. The long gallery 
 is painted with the famous acts of the Founder ; the roof 
 with the life of Julius Cassar ; at the e^nd of it is a cupola, 
 or singing theatre, supported by very stately pillars of 
 black marble. The chapel anciently belonged to the 
 family of the Founder. The court is very ample. The 
 gardens without are very large, and the parterres of excel- 
 lent embroidery, set with many statues of brass and 
 marble ; the groves, meadows, and walks are a real 
 Paradise. 
 
 16th. We returned to Tours, from whence, after nineteen 
 weeks' sojourn, we travelled towards the more southern 
 part of France, minding now to shape my course so, as I 
 might winter in Italy. With my friend, Mr. Thicknesse, 
 and our guide, we went the first day seven leagues to a 
 castle called Chenonceau, built by Catherine de Medicis, 
 and now belonging to the Duke de Vendome, standing on 
 a bridge. In the gallery, amongst divers other excellent 
 statues, is that of Scipio Africanus, of oriental alabaster. 
 
 21st. We passed by Villefranche, where we dined, and 
 so by Muneton, lying at Viaron-au-mouton, which was 
 twenty leagues. The next day by Murg to Bourges, four 
 leagues, where we spent the day. This is the capital of 
 Berry, an University much frequented by the Dutch, 
 situated on the river Eure. It stands high, is strong, and 
 well placed for defence; is environed with meadows and 
 vines, and the living here is very cheap. In the suburbs 
 of St. Prive, there is a fountain of sharp water which they 
 report wholesome against the stone. They shewed us a 
 vast tree which they say stands in the centre of France. 
 The French tongue is spoken with great purity in this 
 place. St. Stephen's church is the cathedral, well-built
 
 76 DIARY OF [BOURGE, 
 
 a la Gothtque, full of sepulchres without-side, with the 
 representation of the final Judgment over one of the ports. 
 Here they show the chapel of Claude de la Chastre, a 
 famous soldier, who had served six Kings of France in 
 their wars. St. Chapelle is built much like that at Paris, 
 full of relics, and containing the bones of one Briat, a 
 giant of fifteen cubits high. It was erected by John. 
 Duke of Berry, and there is shewed the coronet of the 
 dukedom. The great tower is a Pharos for defence of the 
 town, very strong, in thickness eighteen feet, fortified with 
 graffs and works ; there is a garrison in it, and a strange 
 engine for throwing great stones, and the iron cage where 
 Louis, Duke of Orleans, was kept by Charles VIII. Near 
 the Town-house stands the College of Jesuits, where was 
 heretofore an Amphitheatre. I was courteously enter- 
 tained by a Jesuit, who had us into the garden, where we 
 fell into disputation. The house of Jaques Coeur is worth 
 seeing. Bourges is an Archbishopric, and Primacy of 
 Aquitaine. I took my leave of Mr. Nicholas, and some 
 other English there ; and, on the 23rd, proceeded on my 
 journey by Pont du Charge; and lay that evening at 
 Coulaiure, thirteen leagues. 
 
 24th, by Franchesse, St. Menoux, thence to Moulins, 
 where we dined. This is the chief town of the Bourbon- 
 nois, on the river Allier, very navigable. The streets are 
 fair ; the Castle has a noble prospect, and has been the 
 seat of the Dukes. Here is a pretty park and garden. 
 After dinner, came many who offered knives and scissors 
 to sell; it being a town famous for these trifles. This 
 Duchy of Bourbon is ordinarily assigned for the dowry of 
 the Queens of France. 
 
 Hence, we took horse for Varennes, an obscure village, 
 where we lay that night. The next day, we went some- 
 what out of the way to see the town of Bourbon 1 'Ar- 
 chambaut, from whose ancient and rugged castle is derived 
 the name of the present Royal Family of France. The 
 castle stands on a flinty rock, overlooking the town. In 
 the midst of the streets are some baths of medicinal 
 waters, some of them excessive hot, but nothing so neatly 
 walled and adorned as ours in Somersetshire ; and indeed 
 they are chiefly used to drink of, our Queen being then 
 lodged there for that purpose. After dinner, I went to
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 77 
 
 see the St. Chapelle, a prime place of devotion, where is 
 kept one of the thorns of our Saviour's crown, and a piece 
 of the real cross ; excellent paintings on glass, and some 
 few statues of stone and wood, which they show for 
 curiosities. Hence, we went forward to La Palise, a 
 village that lodged us that night. 
 
 26th. We arrived at Roane, where we quitted our 
 guide, and took post for Lyons. Roane seemed to me 
 one of the pleasantest and most agreeable places ima- 
 ginable, for a retired person : for, besides the situa- 
 tion on the Loire, there are excellent provisions cheap and 
 abundant, It being late when we left this town, we rode 
 no farther than Tarare that night (passing St. Saforin), a 
 little desolate village in a valley near -a pleasant stream, 
 encompassed with fresh meadows and vineyards. The 
 hills which we rode over before we descended, and after- 
 wards, on the Lyons side of this place, are high and 
 mountainous ; fir and pines growing frequently on them. 
 The air methought was much altered, as well as the 
 manner of the houses, which are built flatter, more after 
 the eastern manner. Before I went to bed, I took a land- 
 scape of this pleasant terrace. There followed a most 
 violent tempest of thunder and lightning. 
 
 27th. We rode by Pont Charu to Lyons, which being but 
 six leagues we soon accomplished, having made eighty-five 
 leagues from Tours in seven days. Here, at the Golden 
 Lion, rue de Flandre, I met divers of my acquaintance, 
 who, coming from Paris, were designed for Italy. We 
 lost no time in seeing the city, because of being ready to 
 accompany these gentlemen in their journey. Lyons is 
 excellently situated on the confluence of the rivers Soane 
 and Rhone, which wash the walls of the city in a very 
 rapid stream ; each of these has its bridge ; that over the 
 Rhone consists of twenty-eight arches. The two high 
 cliffs, called St. Just and St. Sebastian, are very stately ; 
 on one of them stands a strong fort, garrisoned. We 
 visited the cathedral, St. Jean, where was one of the fairest 
 clocks for art and busy invention I had ever seen. The 
 fabric of the church is gothic, as are likewise those of St. 
 Etienne and St. Croix. From the top of one of the 
 towers of St. Jean (for it has four) we beheld the whole 
 city and country, with a prospect reaching to the Alps,
 
 78 DIARY OF [VIENNE, 
 
 many leagues distant. The Archbishop's Palace is fairly 
 built. The church of St. Nisier is the greatest ; that of 
 the Jacobins is well built. Here are divers other fine 
 churches and very noble buildings we had not time to 
 visit, only that of the Charite", or great hospital for poor 
 infirm people, entertaining about 1500 souls, with a school, 
 granary, gardens, and all conveniences, maintained at a 
 wonderful expense, worthy seeing. The place of the Belle 
 Cour is very spacious, observable for the view it affords, so 
 various and agreeable, of hills, rocks, vineyards, gardens, 
 precipices, and other extravagant and incomparable advan- 
 tages, presenting themselves together. The Pall Mall is 
 set with fair trees. In fine, this stately, clean, and noble 
 city, built all of stone, abounds in persons of quality and 
 rich merchants : those of Florence pbtaining great privi- 
 leges above the rest. In the Town-house, they show two 
 tables of brass, on which is engraven Claudius's speech, 
 pronounced to the Senate, concerning the franchising of 
 the town, with the Roman privileges. There are also other 
 antiquities. 
 
 30th. We bargained with a waterman to carry us to 
 Avignon on the river, and got the first night to Vienne, 
 in Dauphine. This is an Archbishopric, and the province 
 gives title to the Heir-apparent of France. Here we 
 supped and lay, having, amongst other dainties, a dish of 
 truffles, which is a certain earth-nut, found out by a hog 
 trained to it, and for which those animals are sold at a 
 great price. It is in truth an incomparable meat. We 
 were shewed the ruins of an amphitheatre, pretty entire; 
 and many handsome palaces, especially that of Pontius 
 Pilate, not far from the town, at the foot of a solitary 
 mountain, near the river, having four pinnacles. Here it 
 is reported he passed his exile, and precipitated himself 
 into the lake not far from it. The house is modern, and 
 seems to be the seat of some gentleman; being in a very 
 pleasant, though melancholy place. The cathedral of 
 Vienne is St. Maurice ; and there are many other pretty 
 buildings, but nothing more so, than the mills where they 
 hammer and polish the sword-blades. 
 
 Hence, the next morning we swam (for the river here is 
 so rapid that the boat was only steered) to a small village 
 called Them, where we dined. Over-against this is another
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 79 
 
 town, named Tournon, where is a very strong castle under 
 a high precipice. To the castle joins the Jesuits' College, 
 who have a fair library. The prospect was so tempting, 
 that I could not forbear designing it with my crayon. 
 
 We then came to Valence, a capital city carrying the 
 title of a Duchy; but the Bishop is now sole Lord tem- 
 poral of it, and the country about it. The town having a 
 University famous for the study of the civil law, is much 
 frequented; but the churches are none of the fairest, hav- 
 ing been greatly defaced in the time of the wars. The 
 streets are full of pretty fountains. The citadel is strong 
 and garrisoned. Here we passed the night, and the next 
 morning by Pont St. Esprit, which consists of twenty-two 
 arches ; in the piers of the arches are windows, as it were, 
 to receive the water when it is high and full. Here we 
 went on shore, it being very dangerous to pass the bridge 
 in a boat. 
 
 Hence, leaving our barge, we took horse, seeing at a 
 distance the town and principality of Orange ; and, lodging 
 one night on the way, we arrived at noon at Avignon. 
 This town has belonged to the Popes ever since the time 
 of Clement V. ; being, in 1352, alienated by Jane, Queen 
 of Naples and Sicily. Entering the gates, the soldiers at 
 the guard took our pistols and carbines, and examined us 
 very strictly ; after that, having obtained the Governor's 
 and the Vice-Legatees leave to tarry three days, we were 
 civilly conducted to our lodging. The city is on the 
 Rhone, and divided from the newer part, or town, which is 
 on the other side of the river, by a very fair stone bridge 
 (which has been broken) ; at one end is a very high rock, 
 on which is a strong castle well furnished with artillery. 
 The walls of the city are of large square free-stone, the 
 most neat and best in repair I ever saw. It is full of well- 
 built palaces ; those of the Vice-Legate and Archbishop 
 being the most magnificent. There are many sumptuous 
 churches, especially that of St. Magdalene and St. Martial, 
 wherein the tomb of the Cardinal d'Amboise is the most 
 observable. Clement VI. lies buried in that of the Celes- 
 tines, the altar whereof is exceeding rich: but for nothing 
 I more admired it than the tomb of Madonna Laura, the 
 celebrated mistress of Petrarch. We saw the Arsenal, the 
 Pope's Palace, and the Synagogue of the Jews, who here
 
 $0 DIARY OF [MARSEILLES, 
 
 are distinguished by their red hats. Vaucluse, so much 
 renowned for the solitude of Petrarch, we beheld from the 
 castle; but could not go to visit it for want of time, 
 being now taking mules and a guide for Marseilles. 
 
 We lay at Loumas; the next morning, came to Aix, 
 having passed that extremely rapid and dangerous river of 
 Durance. In this tract, all the heaths, or commons, are 
 covered with rosemary, lavender, lentiscus, and the like 
 sweet shrubs, for many miles together; which to me was 
 very pleasant. Aix is the chief city of Provence, being a 
 Parliament and Presidential town, with other royal Courts 
 and Metropolitan jurisdiction. It is well built, the houses 
 very high, and the streets ample. The Cathedral, St. 
 Saviour's, is a noble pile adorned with innumerable figures, 
 especially that of St. Michael ; the Baptisterie, the Palace, 
 the Court, built in a most spacious piazza, are very fair. 
 The Duke of Guise's house is worth seeing, being fur- 
 nished with many antiquities in and about it. The 
 Jesuits have here a royal College, and the City is a Uni- 
 versity. 
 
 7th October. We had a most delicious journey to Mar- 
 seilles, through a country sweetly declining to the south 
 and Mediterranean coasts, full of vineyards and olive-yards, 
 orange trees, myrtles, pomegranates, and the like sweet 
 plantations, to which belong pleasantly-situated villas to 
 the number of above 1500, built all of freestone, and in 
 prospect shewing as if they were so many heaps of snow 
 dropped out of the clouds amongst those perennial greens. 
 It was almost at the shutting of the gates that we arrived. 
 Marseilles is on the sea-coast, on a pleasant rising ground, 
 well-walled, with an excellent port for ships and galleys, 
 secured by a huge chain of iron drawn across the harbour 
 at pleasure; and there is a well-fortified tower with three 
 other forts, especially that built on a rock; but the castle 
 commanding the city is that of Notre Dame de la Garde. 
 In the chapel hung up divers crocodiles' skins. 
 
 We went then to visit the galleys, being about twenty- 
 five in number; the Capitaine of the Galley Royal gave us 
 most courteous entertainment in his cabin, the slaves in 
 the interim playing both loud and soft music very rarely. 
 Then he shewed us how he commanded their motions with 
 n nod, and his whistle making them row out. The spec-
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. ^ 
 
 tacle was to me new and strange, to see so many hundreds 
 of miserably naked persons, their heads being shaven close 
 and having only high red bonnets, a pair of coarse canvass 
 drawers, their whole backs and legs naked, doubly chained 
 about their middle and legs, in couples, and made fast to 
 their seats, and all commanded in a trice by an imperious 
 and cruel seaman. One Turk amongst the rest he much 
 favoured, who waited on him in his cabin, but with no 
 other dress than the rest, and a chain locked about his 
 leg, but not coupled. This galley was richly carved and 
 gilded, and most of the rest were very beautiful. After 
 bestowing something on the slaves, the capitaine sent a 
 band of them to give us music at dinner where we lodged. 
 I was amazed to contemplate how these miserable caitiffs 
 lie in their galley crowded together ; yet there was hardly 
 one but had some occupation, by which, as leisure and 
 calms permitted, they got some little money, insomuch as 
 some of them have, after many years of cruel servitude, 
 been able to purchase their liberty. The rising-forward 
 and falling-back at their oar, is a miserable spectacle, and 
 the noise of their chains, with the roaring of the beaten 
 waters, has something of strange and fearful in it to one 
 unaccustomed to it. They are ruled and chastised by 
 strokes on their backs and soles of their feet, on the least 
 disorder, and without the least humanity, yet are they 
 cheerful and full of knavery. 
 
 After dinner, we saw the church of St. Victoire, where 
 is that saint's head in a shrine of silver, which weighs 600 
 pounds. Thence to Notre Dame, exceedingly well-built, 
 which is the cathedral. Thence to the Duke of Guise's 
 Palace, the Palace of Justice, and the Maison du Hoi; 
 but nothing is more strange than the great number of 
 slaves working in the streets, and carrying burthens, with 
 their confused noises, and jingling of their huge chains. 
 The chief trade of the town is in silks and drugs out of 
 Africa, Syria, and Egypt, and Barbary horses, which are 
 brought hither in great numbers. The town is governed 
 by four captains, has three consuls and one assessor, three 
 judges royal; the merchants have a judge for ordinary 
 causes. Here we bought umbrellas against the heats, and 
 consulted of our journey to Cannes by land, for fear of 
 the Picaroon Turks, who make prize of many small 
 
 VOL. i. o
 
 g DIARY OF [NICK, 
 
 vessels about these parts ; we not finding a galley bound 
 for Genoa, whither we were designed. 
 
 9th. We took mules, passing the first night very 
 late in sight of St. Baume, and the solitary grot where 
 they affirm Mary Magdalen did her penance. The next 
 day, we lay at Perigueux, a city built on an old foundation ; 
 witness the ruins of a most stately amphitheatre, which I 
 went out to design, being about a flight-shot from the 
 town ; they call it now the Rolsies. There is also a strong 
 tower near the town, called the Visone, but the town and 
 city are at some distance from each other. It is a bishop- 
 ric; has a cathedral; with divers noblemen's houses in 
 sight of the sea. The place was formerly called Forum 
 Julij, well known by antiquaries. 
 
 10th. We proceeded by the ruins of a stately aqueduct. 
 The soil about the country is rocky, full of pines and rare 
 simples. 
 
 llth. We lay at Cannes, which is a small port on the 
 Mediterranean ; here we agreed with a seaman to carry us 
 to Genoa, and, having procured a bill of health (without 
 which there is no admission at any town in Italy), we 
 embarked on the 12th. We touched at the islands of St. 
 Margaret and St. Honore, lately re-taken from the Spa- 
 niards with great bravery by Prince Harcourt. Here, 
 having paid some small duty, we bought some trifles 
 offered us by the soldiers, but without going on shore. 
 Hence, we coasted within two leagues of Antibes, which is 
 the utmost town in France. Thence by Nice, a city in 
 Savoy, built all of brick, which gives it a very pleasant 
 appearance towards the sea, having a very high castle 
 which commands it. We sailed by Morgus, now called 
 Monaco, having passed Villa Franca, heretofore Portus 
 Herculis, when, arriving after the gates were shut, we were 
 forced to abide all night in the barge, which was put into 
 the haven, the wind coming contrary. In the morning, 
 we were hastened away, having no time permitted us by 
 our avaricious master to go up and see this strong and 
 considerable place, which now belongs to a prince of the 
 family of Grimaldi, of Genoa, who has put both it and 
 himself under the protection of the French. The situation 
 is on a promontory of solid stone and rock. The town- 
 walls very fair. We were told that within it was an ample
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 83 
 
 court, and a palace, furnished with the most rich and 
 princely moveables, and a collection of statues, pictures, 
 and massy plate to an immense amount. 
 
 We sailed by Menton and Ventimiglia, being the first 
 city of the republic of Genoa ; supped at Oneglia, where 
 we anchored and lay on shore. The next morning, we 
 coasted in view of the Isle of Corsica, and St. Remo, where 
 the shore is furnished with evergreens, oranges, citrons, 
 and date-trees ; we lay at Port Mauritio. The next morn- 
 ing, by Diano, Araisso, famous for the best coral fishing, 
 growing in abundance on the rocks, deep and continually 
 covered by the sea. By Albenga and Finale, a very fair 
 and strong town belonging to the king of Spain, for which 
 reason a monsieur in our vessel was extremely afraid, as was 
 the patron of our bark, for they frequently catch French 
 prizes, as they creep by these shores to go into Italy ; he 
 therefore plied both sails and oars, to get under the protec- 
 tion of a Genoese galley that passed not far before us, and 
 in whose company we sailed as far as the Cape of Savona, 
 a town built at the rise of the Apennines; for all this 
 coast (except a little of St. B/emo) is a high and steep 
 mountainous ground, consisting all of rock-marble, without 
 any grass, tree, or rivage, formidable to look on. A strange 
 object it is, to consider how some poor cottages stand fast 
 on the declivities of these precipices, and by what steps 
 the inhabitants ascend to them. The rock consists of all 
 sorts of the most precious marbles. 
 
 Here, on the 15th, forsaking our galley we encountered 
 a little foul weather, which made us creep terra, terra, as 
 they call it, and so a vessel that encountered us advised us 
 to do; but our patron, striving to double the point of 
 Savona, making out into the wind put us into great 
 hazard ; for, blowing very hard from land betwixt those 
 horrid gaps of the mountains, it set so violently, as raised 
 on the sudden so great a sea, that we could not recover 
 the weather-shore for many hours, insomuch that, what 
 with the water already entered, and the confusion of 
 fearful passengers, (of which one who was an Irish bishop, 
 and his brother, a priest, were confessing some as at the 
 article of death), we were almost abandoned to despair, 
 our pilot himself giving us up for lost. And now, as we 
 were weary with pumping and laving out the water, almost
 
 4 DIARY OF [GENOA, 
 
 sinking, it pleased God, on the sudden to appease tlie 
 wind, and with much ado and great peril we recovered the 
 shore, Avhich we now kept in view within half a league in 
 sight of those pleasant villas, and within scent of those 
 fragrant orchards which are on this coast, fall of princely 
 retirements for the sumptuousness of their buildings and 
 nobleness of the plantations, especially those at St. Pietro 
 d' Arena ; from whence, the wind blowing as it did, might 
 perfectly be smelt the peculiar joys of Italy in the perfumes- 
 of orange, citron, and jasmine flowers, for divers leagues- 
 seaward.* 
 
 16th. We got to anchor under the Pharos, or watch- 
 tower, built on a high rock at the mouth of the Mole 
 of Genoa, the weather being still so foul that for two 
 hours at least we durst not stand into the haven. Towards- 
 evening, we adventured, and came on shore by the Prat- 
 tique-house, where, after strict examination by the Syndics, 
 we were had to the Ducal Palace, and there our names- 
 being taken, we were conducted to our inn, kept by one 
 Zacharias, an Englishman. I shall never forget a story 
 of our host Zachary, who, on the relation of our peril, told 
 us another of his own, being shipwrecked, as he affirmed 
 solemnly, in the middle of a great sea somewhere in the 
 West Indies, that he swam no less than twenty-two 
 leagues to another island, with a tinder-box wrapped up 
 in his hair, which was not so much as wet all the way ;. 
 that picking up the carpenter's tools with other provisions 
 in a chest, he and the carpenter, who accompanied him, 
 (good swimmers it seems both) floated the chest before 
 them ; and, arriving at last in a place full of wood, they 
 built another vessel, and so escaped ! After this story, 
 we no more talked of our danger, Zachary put us quite 
 down. 
 
 17th. Accompanied by a most courteous marchand, called 
 Tomson, we went to view the rarities. The city is built 
 in the hollow or bosom of a mountain, whose ascent is 
 very steep, high, and rocky, so that, from the Lantern and 
 Mole to the hill, it represents the shape of a theatre ; the 
 streets and buildings so ranged one above another, as 
 
 Mr. Evelyn was so struck with this circumstance of the fragrancy of 
 the air of this coast, that he has noticed it again in his dedication of the 
 " Fumifugium " to King Charles the Second.
 
 44.] JOHN EVELYN. 85 
 
 our seats are in play-houses ; but, from their materials, 
 beauty, and structure, never was an artificial scene more 
 beautiful to the eye, nor is any place, for the size of it, 
 so full of well-designed and stately palaces, as may be 
 easily concluded by that rare book in a large folio which 
 the great virtuoso and painter, Paul Rubens, has pub- 
 lished, though it contains [the description of] only one 
 street and two or three churches. 
 
 The first palace we went to visit was that of Hieronymo 
 del Negros, to which we passed by boat across the harbour. 
 Here I could not but observe the sudden and devilish 
 passion of a seaman, who plying us was intercepted by 
 another fellow, that interposed his boat before him and 
 took us in ; for the tears gushing out of his eyes, he put 
 his finger in his mouth and almost bit it off by the joint, 
 showing it to his antagonist as an assurance to him of 
 some bloody revenge, if ever he came near that part of 
 the harbour again. Indeed, this beautiful city is more 
 stained with such horrid acts of revenge and murders, 
 than any one place in Europe, or haply in the world, where 
 there is a political government, which makes it unsafe to 
 strangers. It is made a galley matter to carry a knife 
 whose point is not broken off. 
 
 This palace of Negros is richly furnished with the rarest 
 pictures ; on the terrace, or hilly garden, there is a grove 
 of stately trees, amongst which are sheep, shepherds, and 
 wild beasts, cut very artificially in a grey stone ; fountains, 
 rocks, and fish-ponds : casting your eyes one way, you would 
 imagine yourself in a wilderness and silent country ; side- 
 ways, in the heart of a great city ; and backwards, in the 
 midst of the sea. All this is within one acre of ground. 
 In the house, I noticed those red-plaster floors which are 
 made so hard, and kept so polished, that for some time 
 one would take them for whole pieces of porphyry. I 
 have frequently wondered that we never practised this 
 {art] in England for cabinets and rooms of state,* for it 
 appears to me beyond any invention of that kind ; but by 
 their careful covering them with canvass and fine mat- 
 tresses, where there is much passage, I suppose they 
 
 There are such at Hardwick Hall, in Derbyshire, a seat of the Duke of 
 Devonshire's.
 
 Sf, DIARY OF [GENOA, 
 
 are not lasting in their glory, and haply they are often 
 repaired. 
 
 There are numerous other palaces of particular curio- 
 sities, for the marchands being very rich, have, like our 
 neighbours^ the Hollanders, little or no extent of ground 
 to employ their estates in : as those in pictures and hang- 
 ings, so these lay it out on marble houses and rich furni- 
 ture. One of the greatest here for circuit is that of the 
 Prince Doria, which reaches from the sea to the summit 
 of the mountains. The house is most magnificently built 
 without, nor less gloriously furnished within, having whole 
 tables* and bedsteads of massy silver, many of them set 
 with agates, onyxes, cornelians, lazulis, pearls, turquoises, 
 and other precious stones. The pictures and statues are 
 innumerable. To this palace belong three gardens, the 
 first whereof is beautified with a terrace, supported by 
 pillars of marble : there is a fountain of eagles, and one of 
 Neptune, with other sea-gods, all of the purest white 
 marble ; they stand in a most ample basin of the same 
 stone. At the side of this garden is such an aviary as Sir 
 Francis Bacon describes in his Sermones fidelium, or Essays, 
 wherein grow trees of more than two feet diameter, besides 
 cypress, myrtles, lentsicuses, and other rare shrubs, which 
 serve to nestle and perch all sorts of birds, who have air 
 and place enough under their airy canopy, supported with 
 huge iron work, stupendous for its fabric and the charge. 
 The other two gardens are full of orange-trees, citrons,, 
 and pomegranates, fountains, grots, and statues. One of 
 the latter is a colossal Jupiter, under which is the sepulchre 
 of a beloved dog, for the care of which one of this family 
 received of the King of Spain 500 crowns a-year, during 
 the life of that faithful animal. The reservoir of water 
 here is a most admirable piece of art ! and so is the grotto 
 over-against it. 
 
 We went hence to the Palace of the Dukes, where is 
 also the Court of Justice ; thence to the Merchant's Walk, 
 rarely covered. Nearf the Ducal Palace we saw the 
 public armoury, which was almost all new, most neatly 
 kept and ordered, sufficient for 30,000 men. We were 
 
 * One of which, Lassells says, weighed 24,000 Ibs. " Voyage through. 
 Italy," lb'70, p. 94. 
 t Lassells says, in the Palace. '
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 87 
 
 shewed many rare inventions and engines of war peculiar 
 to that armoury, as in the state when guns were first 
 put in use. The garrison of the town chiefly consists of 
 Germans and Corsicans. The famous Strada Nova, built 
 wholly of polished marble, was designed by Rubens, and 
 for stateliness of the buildings, paving, and evenness of 
 the street, is far superior to any in Europe, for the number 
 of houses ; that of Don Carlo Doria is a most magnificent 
 structure. In the gardens of the old Marquess Spinola, I 
 saw huge citrons hanging on the trees, applied like our 
 apricots to the walls. The churches are no less splendid 
 than the palaces : that of St. Francis is wholly built of 
 Parian marble ; St. Laurence, in the middle of the city, 
 of white and black polished stone, the inside wholly in- 
 crusted with marble and other precious materials ; on the 
 altar of St. John stand four sumptuous columns of por- 
 phyry ; and here we were shewed an emerald, supposed 
 to be one of the largest in the world.* The church of 
 St. Ambrosio, belonging to the Jesuits, will, when finished, 
 exceed all the rest ; and that of the Annunciada, founded 
 at the charges of one family,f in the present and future 
 design can never be outdone for cost and art. From the 
 churches we walked to the Mole, a work of solid huge 
 stone, stretching itself near 600 paces into the main sea, 
 and secures the harbour, heretofore of no safety. Of all 
 the wonders of Italy, for the art and nature of the design, 
 nothing parallels this.J We passed over to the Pharos, 
 or Lantern, a tower of very great height. Here we took 
 horses, and made the circuit of the city as far as the new 
 walls, built of a prodigious height, and with Herculean 
 industry; witness those vast pieces of whole mountains 
 which they have hewn away, and blown up with gun- 
 powder, to render them steep and inaccessible. They are 
 not much less than twenty English miles in extent, 
 
 * Lassells calls it a great dish, in which they say here that our Saviour 
 ate the Paschal Lamb with his Disciples ; but he adds that he finds no autho- 
 rity for it hi any ancient writer, and the Venerable Bede writes, that the dish 
 used by our Saviour was of silver. Of an authentic relic of St. John he 
 observes that Baronius writes credibly. 
 
 j- Two brothers, named Lomellini, allow the third part of their gains. 
 Lassells. 
 
 J The break-water at Plymouth is at least as stupendous a work. 
 
 Lassells says, finished in eighteen months, and yet six miles in com- 
 pass. P. 83.
 
 88 DIARY OF [PISA, 
 
 reaching beyond the utmost buildings of the city. From 
 one of these promontories we could easily discern the 
 island of Corsica; and from the same, eastward, we saw 
 a vale having a great torrent running through a most 
 desolate barren country ; and then turning our eyes more 
 northward, saw those delicious villas of St. Pietro d' Arena, 
 which present another Genoa to you, the ravishing retire- 
 ments of the Genoese nobility. Hence, with much pain, 
 we descended towards the Arsenal, where the galleys lie 
 in excellent order. 
 
 The inhabitants of this city are much affected to the 
 Spanish mode and stately garb.* From the narrowness 
 of the streets, they use sedans and litters, and not coaches. 
 
 19th. We embarked in a felucca for Livorno, or 
 Leghorn ; but the sea running very high, we put in at 
 Porto Venere, which we made with, peril, between two 
 narrow horrid rocks, against which the sea dashed with 
 great velocity ; but we were soon delivered into as great 
 a calm and a most ample harbour, being in the Golfo 
 di Spetia. From hence, we could see Pliny's Delphini 
 Promontorium, now called Capo fino. Here stood that 
 famous city of Luna, whence the port was named Lunaris, 
 being about two leagues over, more resembling a lake 
 than a haven, but defended by castles and excessive high 
 mountains. We landed at Lerici, where, being Sunday, 
 was a great procession, carrying the Sacrament about the 
 streets in solemn devotion. After dinner, we took post- 
 horses, passing through whole groves of olive-trees, the 
 way somewhat rugged and hilly at first, but afterwards 
 pleasant. Thus we passed through the towns of Sarzana 
 and Massa, and the vast marble quarries of Carrara, and 
 lodged in an obscure inn, at a place called Viregio. The 
 next morning, we arrived at Pisa, where I met my old 
 friend, Mr. Thomas Henshaw, who was then newly come 
 
 * Thus described by Lassells : "broad hats without hat-bands, broad 
 leather girdles with steel buckles, narrow breeches, with long-waisted doublets 
 and hanging sleeves. The great ladies go in guard infantas (child-preservers) ; 
 that is, in horrible overgrown vertigals of whalebone, which being put about 
 the waist of the lady, and full as broad on both sides as she can reach with 
 her hands, bear out her coats in such a manner, that she appears to be as 
 broad as long. The men look like tumblers that leap through hoops, and the 
 women like those that anciently danced the hobby-horse in country mummings." 
 P. 96.
 
 1644] JOHN EVELYN. S9 
 
 out of Spain, and from whose company I never parted till 
 more than a year after. 
 
 The city of Pisa is as much worth seeing, as any in 
 Italy ; it has contended with Rome, Florence, Sardinia, 
 Sicily, and even Carthage. The palace and church of 
 St. Stefano (where the order of knighthood called by that 
 name was instituted) drew first our curiosity, the outside 
 thereof being altogether of polished marble ; within, it is 
 full of tables relating to this Order; over which hang 
 divers banners and pendants, with other trophies taken by 
 them from the Turks, against whom they are particularly 
 obliged to fight ; though a religious order, they are per- 
 mitted to marry. At the front of the palace, stands a 
 fountain, and the statue of the great Duke Cosmo. The 
 Campanile, or Settezonio, built by John Venipont, a 
 German, consists of several orders of pillars, thirty in a 
 row, designed to be much higher. It stands alone on the 
 right side of the cathedral, strangely remarkable for this, 
 that the beholder would expect it to fall, being built ex- 
 ceedingly declining, by a rare address of the architect; 
 and how it is supported from falling I think would puzzle 
 a good geometrician. The Duomo, or Cathedral, standing 
 near it, is a superb structure, beautified with six columns 
 of great antiquity; the gates are of brass, of admirable 
 workmanship. The cemetery called Campo Santo, is made 
 of divers galley ladings of earth formerly brought from 
 Jerusalem, said to be of such a nature, as to consume 
 dead bodies in forty hours. 'Tis cloistered with marble 
 arches ; and here lies buried the learned Philip Decius, 
 who taught in this University. At one side of this church, 
 stands an ample and well-wrought marble vessel, which 
 heretofore contained the tribute paid yearly by the city to 
 Caesar. It is placed, as I remember, on a pillar of opal 
 stone, with divers other antique urns. Near this, and in 
 the same field, is the Baptistery of San Giovanni, built 
 of pure white marble, and covered with so artificial a 
 cupola, that the voice uttered under it seems to break out 
 of a cloud. The font and pulpit, supported by four lions, 
 is of inestimable value for the preciousness of the materials. 
 The place where these buildings stand they call the Area. 
 Hence, we went to the College, to which joins a gallery so 
 furnished with natural rarities, stones, minerals, shells,
 
 90 DIARY OP [LEGHORN, 
 
 dried animals, skeletons, &c., as is hardly to be seen in 
 Italy. To this the Physic Garden lies, where is a noble 
 palm-tree, and very fine water-works. The river Arno 
 runs through the middle of this stately city, whence the 
 main street is named Lung 'Arno. It is so ample that 
 the Duke's galleys, built in the arsenal here, are easily 
 conveyed to Livorno ; over the river is an arch, the like 
 of which, for its flatness, and serving for a bridge, is no- 
 where in Europe. The Duke has a stately Palace, before 
 which is placed the statue of Ferdinand the Third ; over 
 against it is the Exchange, built of marble. Since this 
 city came to be under the Dukes of Tuscany, it has been 
 much depopulated, though there is hardly in Italy any 
 which exceeds it for stately edifices. The situation of it 
 is low and flat ; but the inhabitants have spacious gardens, 
 and even fields within the walls. 
 
 21st. We took coach to Livorno, through the Great 
 Duke's new park full of huge cork-trees, the underwood 
 all myrtles, amongst which were many buffaloes feeding, 
 a kind of wild ox, short-nose with horns reversed ; those 
 who work with them command them, as our bear-wards 
 do the bears, with a ring through the nose, and a cord. 
 Much of this park, as well as a great part of the country 
 about it, is very fenny, and the air very bad. 
 
 Leghorn is the prime port belonging to all the Duke's 
 territories ; heretofore a very obscure town, but since 
 Duke Ferninand has strongly fortified it (after the modern 
 way), drained the marshes by cutting a channel thence to 
 Pisa navigable sixteen miles, and has raised a Mole, 
 emulating that at Genoa, to secure the shipping, it is 
 become a place of great receipt ; it has also a place for the 
 galleys, where they lie safe. Before the sea is an ample 
 piazza for the market, where are the statues in copper of 
 the four slaves, much exceeding the life for proportion, 
 and, in the judgment of most artists, one of the best 
 pieces of modern work.* Here, especially in this piazza, 
 is such a concourse of slaves, Turks, Moors, and other 
 nations, that the number and confusion is prodigious; 
 some buying, others selling, others drinking, others play- 
 
 * They had attempted to steal a galley, meaning to have rowed it them- 
 selves ; but were taken in this great enterprise. Lassdls, p. 233.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 91 
 
 ing, some working, others sleeping, fighting, singing, 
 weeping, all nearly naked, and miserably chained. Here 
 was a tent, where any idle fellow might stake his liberty 
 against a few crowns, at dice, or other hazard ; and, if he 
 lost, he was immediately chained and led away to the gal- 
 leys, where he was to serve a term of years, but from 
 whence they seldom returned : many sottish persons, in a 
 drunken bravado, would try their fortune in this way. 
 
 The houses of this neat town are very uniform, and 
 excellently painted d fresco on the outer walls, with 
 representations of many of their victories over the Turks. 
 The houses, though low on account of the earthquakes 
 which frequently happen here, (as did one during my 
 being in Italy), are very well built; the piazza is very 
 fair and commodious, and, with the church, whose four 
 columns at the portico are of black marble polished, gave 
 the first hint to the building both of the church and 
 piazza in Covent Garden with us, though very imperfectly 
 pursued. 
 
 22nd. From Livorno, I took coach to Empoly, where 
 we lay, and the next day arrived at Florence, being 
 recommended to the house of SignorBaritiere, in the Piazza 
 del Spirito Santo, where we were exceedingly well treated. 
 Florence is at the foot of the Apennines, the west part 
 full of stately groves and pleasant meadows, beautified 
 with more than a thousand houses and country palaces 
 of note, belonging to gentlemen of the town. The river 
 Arno runs through this city, in a broad, but very shallow 
 channel, dividing it, as it were, in the middle, and over it 
 are four most sumptuous bridges, of stone. On that nearest 
 to our quarter are the four Seasons, in white marble ; on 
 another are the goldsmiths' shops ; at the head of the 
 former stands a column of ophite, upon which a statue of 
 Justice, with her balance and sword, cut out of porphyry, 
 and the more remarkable for being the first which had 
 been carved out of that hard material, and brought to 
 perfection, after the art had been utterly lost ; they say 
 this was done by hardening the tools in the juice of 
 certain herbs. This statue was erected in that corner, 
 because there Cosmo was first saluted with the news of 
 Sienna being taken. 
 
 Near this is the famous Palazzo di Strozzi, a princely
 
 92 DIARY OF [FLORENCF, 
 
 piece of architecture, in a rustic manner. The Palace of 
 Pitti was built Toy that family, but of late greatly beauti- 
 fied by Cosmo with huge square stones of the Doric, 
 Ionic, and the Corinthian orders, with a terrace at each 
 side having rustic uncut balustrades, with a fountain that 
 ends in a cascade seen from the great gate, and so forming a 
 \ista to the gardens. Nothing is more admirable than 
 the vacant staircase, marbles, statues, urns, pictures, 
 court, grotto, and water-works. In the quadrangle is a 
 huge jetto of water in a volto of four faces, with noble 
 statues at each square, especially the Diana of porphyry 
 above the grotto. We were here showed a prodigious 
 great loadstone. 
 
 The garden has every variety, hills, dales, rocks, groves, 
 aviaries, vivaries, fountains, especially one of five jettos, 
 the middle basin being one of the longest stones I ever 
 saw. Here is everything to make such a Paradise 
 delightful. In the garden I saw a rose grafted on an 
 orange-tree. There was much topiary-work, and columns 
 in architecture about the hedges. The Duke has added 
 an ample laboratory, over-against which stands a fort on 
 a, hill, where they told us his treasure is kept. In this 
 Palace the Duke ordinarily resides, living with his Swiss 
 guards, after the frugal Italian way, and even selling what 
 he can spare of his wines, at the cellar under his very 
 house, wicker bottles dangling over even the chief entrance 
 into the Palace, serving for a vintner's bush. 
 
 In the Church of Santo Spirito the altar and reliquary 
 are most rich, and full of precious stones ; there are four 
 pillars of a kind of serpentine, and some of blue. Hence 
 we went to another Palace of the Duke's, called Palazzo 
 Vecchio, before which is a statue of David, by Michael 
 Angelo, and one of Hercules, killing Cacus, the work of 
 Baccio Bandinelli. The quadrangle about this is of the 
 Corinthian order, and in the hall are many rare marbles, 
 as those of Leo the Tenth and Clement VII., both Popes 
 of the Medicean family ; also the acts of Cosmo, in rare 
 painting. In the chapel is kept (as they would make one 
 believe) the original Gospel of St. John, written with his 
 own hand; and the famous Florentine Pandects, and 
 divers precious stones. Near it is another pendent Tower 
 like that of Pisa, always threatening ruin.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 93 
 
 Under the Court of Justice is a stately arcade for men 
 to walk in, and over that, the shops of divers rare artists 
 who continually work for the great Duke. Above this is 
 that renowned Ceimeliarcha, or Repository, wherein are 
 hundreds of admirable antiquities, statues of marble and 
 metal, vases of porphyry, &c. ; but amongst the statues 
 none so famous as the Scipio, the Boar, the Idol of 
 Apollo, brought from the Delphic Temple, and two tri- 
 umphant columns. Over these hang the pictures of the 
 most famous persons and illustrious men in arts or arms, 
 to the number of 300, taken out of the museum of Paulus 
 Jovius. They then led us into a large square room, in 
 the middle of which stood a cabinet of an octangular 
 form, so adorned and furnished with crystals, agates, and 
 sculptures, as exceeds any description. This cabinet is 
 called the Tribuna, and in it is a pearl as big as an hazel 
 nut.* The cabinet is of ebony, lazuli, and jasper; over 
 the door is a round of M. Angelo ; on the cabinet, Leo 
 the Tenth, with other paintings of Raphael, del Sarto, 
 Perugino, and Coreggio, viz. a St. John, a Virgin, a Boy, 
 two Apostles, two heads of Durer, rarely carved. Over 
 this cabinet is a globe of ivory, excellently carved; the 
 Labours of Hercules, in massy silver, and many incom- 
 parable pictures in small. There is another, which had 
 about it eight Oriental columns of alabaster, on each 
 whereof was placed a head of a Caesar, covered with a 
 canopy so richly set with precious stones, that they re- 
 sembled a firmament of stars. Within it was our Saviour's 
 Passion, and the twelve Apostles in amber. This cabinet 
 was valued at two hundred thousand crowns. In another, 
 with calcedon pillars, was a series of golden medals. 
 Here* is also another rich ebony cabinet cupolaed with a 
 tortoise-shell, and containing a collection of gold medals 
 esteemed worth 50,000 crowns; a wreathed pillar of ori- 
 ental alabaster, divers paintings of Da Vinci, Pontorno, 
 del Sarto, an Ecce Homo of Titian, a Boy of Bronzini, &c. 
 They shewed us a branch of coral fixed on the rock, which 
 they affirm does still grow. In another room, is kept 
 the Tabernacle appointed for the chapel of St. Laurence, 
 
 * Sir Gore Ouseley brought from Persia a picture of the Khan, which, in 
 1816, was in his house in Bruton-street, on whose dress are represented 
 pearls of such a size, as to make the one here spoken of very insignificant.
 
 94 DIARY OF [FLORENCE, 
 
 about which are placed small statues of Saints, of precious 
 materials ; a piece of such art and cost, that, having been 
 these forty years in perfecting, it is one of the most curious 
 things in the world. Here were divers tables of Pietra 
 Commesso, which is a marble ground inlaid with several 
 sorts of marbles and stones of various colours, represent- 
 ing flowers, trees, beasts, birds, and landscapes. In one is 
 represented the town of Leghorn, by the same hand who 
 inlaid the altar of St. Laurence, Domenico Benotti, of 
 whom I purchased nineteen pieces of the same work for a 
 cabinet. In a press near this they shewed an iron nail, 
 one half whereof being converted into gold by one Thurn- 
 heuser, a German chymist, is looked on as a great rarity ; 
 but it plainly appeared to have been soldered together. 
 There is a curious watch, a monstrous turquoise as big as 
 an egg, on which is carved an emperor's head. 
 
 In the armoury are kept many antique habits, as those 
 of Chinese kings ; the sword of Charlemagne ; Hannibal's 
 head-piece ; a loadstone of a yard long, which bears up 
 861bs weight, in a chain of seventeen links, such as 
 the slaves are tied to. In another room are such rare 
 turneries in ivory, as are not to be described for their 
 curiosity. There is a fair pillar of oriental alabaster; 
 twelve vast and complete services of silver plate, and one of 
 gold, all of excellent workmanship; a rich embroidered 
 saddle of pearls sent by the Emperor to this Duke ; and 
 here is that embroidered chair set with precious stones in 
 which he sits, when, on St. John's day, he receives the 
 tribute of the cities. 
 
 25th. We went to the Portico where the famous 
 statue of Judith and Holofernes stands, also the Medusa, 
 all of copper ; but what is most admirable is the Rape of 
 a Sabine, with another man under foot, the confusion and 
 turning of whose limbs is most admirable. It is of one 
 entire marble, the work of John di Bologna, and is most 
 stupendous ; this stands directly against the great piazza, 
 where, to adorn one fountain, are erected four marble 
 statues and eight of brass, representing Neptune and his 
 family of sea-gods, of a Colossean magnitude, with four 
 sea-horses, in Parian marble of Lamedrati, in the midst 
 of a very great basin; a work, I think, hardly to be 
 paralleled. Here is also the famous statue of David, by
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 95 
 
 M. Angelo ; Hercules and Cacus, by Baccio Bandinelli; the 
 Perseus, in copper, by Benevento, and the Judith of Dona- 
 telli, which stand publicly before the old Palace with the 
 Centaur of Bologna, huge Colossean figures. Near this 
 stand Cosmo di Medicis on horseback, in brass on a 
 pedestal of marble, and four copper basso-relievos by John 
 di Bologna, with divers inscriptions; the Ferdinand the 
 First, on horseback, is of Peitro Tacca. The brazen boar, 
 which serves for another public fountain, is admirable. 
 
 After dinner, we went to the Church of the Annun- 
 ciata, where the Duke and his Court were at their 
 devotions, being a place of extraordinary repute for 
 sanctity: for here is a shrine that does great miracles, 
 [proved] by innumerable votive tablets, &c. covering 
 almost the walls of the whole church. This is the image 
 of Gabriel, who saluted the Blessed Virgin, and which the 
 artist finished so well, that he was in despair of per- 
 forming the Virgin's face so well; whereupon it was 
 miraculously done for him whilst he slept ; but others say 
 it was painted by St. Luke himself. Whoever it was, 
 infinite is the devotion of both sexes to it. The altar is 
 set off with four columns of oriental alabaster, and lighted 
 by thirty great silver lamps. There are innumerable 
 other pictures by rare masters. Our Saviour's Passion in 
 brass tables inserted in marble, is the work of John di 
 Bologna and Baccio Bandinelli. 
 
 To this church joins a convent, whose cloister is painted 
 in fresco very rarely. There is also near it an hospital for 
 1000 persons, with nurse-children, and several other cha- 
 ritable accommodations. 
 
 At the Duke's Cavalerizza, the Prince has a stable of 
 the finest horses of all countries, Arabs, Turks, Barbs, 
 Gennets, English, &c., which are continually exercised in 
 the manege. 
 
 Near this is a place where are kept several wild beasts, 
 as wolves, cats, bears, tigers, and lions. They are loose 
 in a deep walled court, and therefore to be seen with 
 more pleasure than those at the Tower of London, in their 
 grates. One of the lions leaped to a surprising height, to 
 catch a joint of mutton which I caused to be hung down. 
 
 * There are many plain brick towers erected for defence, 
 
 There seems to be an omission in the MS. as to their leaving Florence 
 and going to Sienna.
 
 96 DIARY OF [SIENNA, 
 
 when this was a free state. The highest is called the 
 Mangio, standing at the foot of the piazza which we went 
 first to see after our arrival. At the entrance of this 
 tower is a chapel open towards the piazza, of marble well- 
 adorned with sculpture. 
 
 On the other side is the Signoria, or Court of Justice, 
 well built a la moderna, of brick ; indeed the bricks of 
 Sienna are so well made, that they look almost as well as. 
 porphyry itself, having a kind of natural polish. 
 
 In the Senate-House is a very fair Hall where they 
 sometimes entertain the people with public shows and 
 operas, as they call them. Towards the left are the 
 statues of Romulus and Remus with the wolf, all of 
 brass, placed on a column of ophite stone, which they 
 report was brought from the renowned Ephesian Temple. 
 These ensigns being the arms of the town, are set up in 
 divers of the streets and public ways both within and far 
 without the city. 
 
 The piazza compasses the facciata of the court and 
 chapel, and, being made with descending steps, much 
 resembles the figure of an escalop-shell. The white ranges- 
 of pavement, intermixed with the excellent bricks above 
 mentioned, with which the town is generally well paved,, 
 render it very clean. About this market-place (for so it 
 is) are many fair palaces, though not built with excess of 
 elegance. There stands an arch, the work of Baltazzar di 
 Sienna, built with wonderful ingenuity, so that it is not 
 easy to conceive how it is supported, yet it has some im- 
 perceptible contignations, which do not betray themselves 
 easily to the eye. On the edge of the piazza is a goodly 
 fountain beautified with statues, the water issuing out of 
 the wolves' mouths, being the work of Jacobo Quercei, a 
 famous artist. There are divers other public fountains in 
 the city, of good design. 
 
 After this, we walked to the Sapienza, which is the 
 University, or rather College, where the high Germans- 
 enjoy many particular privileges when they addict them- 
 selves to the civil law : and indeed this place has produced 
 many excellent scholars, besides those three Popes, Alex- 
 ander, Pius II., and III., of that name, the learned ./Eneas. 
 Sylvius ; and both were of the ancient house of the Pic- 
 colomini.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 97 
 
 The chief street is called Strada Romana, in which 
 Pius II. has built a most stately Palace of square stone 
 with an incomparable portico joining near to it. The town 
 is commanded by a castle which hath four bastions and 
 a garrison of soldiers. Near it is a list to ride horses in, 
 much frequented by the gallants in summer. 
 
 Not far from hence is the Church and Convent of the 
 Dominicans, where in the chapel of St. Catherine of 
 Sienna they show her head, the rest of her body being 
 translated to Rome. The Duomo, or Cathedral, both 
 without and within, is of large square stones of black and 
 white marble polished, of inexpressible beauty, as is the 
 front adorned with sculpture and rare statues. In the 
 middle is a stately cupola and two columns of sundry 
 streaked coloured marble. About the body of the church, 
 on a cornice within, are inserted the heads of all the 
 Popes. The pulpit is beautified with marble figures, a 
 piece of exquisite work ; but what exceeds all description 
 is the pavement, where (besides the various emblems and 
 other figures in the nave) the choir is wrought with the 
 history of the Bible, so artificially expressed in the natural 
 colours of the marbles, that few pictures exceed it. Here 
 stands a Christo, rarely cut in marble, and on the large 
 high altar is a brazen vessel of admirable invention and 
 art. The organs are exceeding sweet and well tuned. 
 On the left side of the altar is the library, where are 
 painted the acts of ^Eneas Sylvius, and others by Raphael. 
 They showed us an arm of St. John the Baptist where- 
 with, they say, he baptized our Saviour in Jordan ; it was 
 given by the King of Peloponnesus to one of the Popes, 
 as an inscription testifies. They have also St. Peter's 
 sword, with which he smote off the ear of Malchus. 
 
 Just against the cathedral, we went into the Hospital, 
 where they entertain and refresh for three or four days, 
 gratis, such pilgrims as go to Rome. In the chapel 
 belonging to it lies the body of St. Susorius, their founder, 
 as yet uncorrupted, though dead many hundreds of years. 
 They show one of the nails which pierced our Saviour, 
 and St. Chrysostom's Comment on the Gospel, written by 
 his own hand. .Below the hill stands the pool called 
 Fonte Brand e, where fish are fed for pleasure more than 
 food. 
 
 VOL. I. H
 
 gg DIARY OF [ST. QOIRICO, 
 
 St. Francis's Church is a large pile, near which, yet a 
 little without the city, grows a tree which they report in 
 their legend grew from the Saint's staff, which on going 
 to sleep he fixed in the ground, and at his waking found 
 it had grown a large tree. They affirm that the wood of 
 it in decoction cures sundry diseases. 
 
 2nd November. We went from Sienna, desirous of being 
 present at the cavalcade of the new Pope, Innocent X.* who 
 had not yet made the grand procession to St. John di Late- 
 rano. We set out by Porto Romano, the country all 
 about the town being rare for hunting and game. Wild 
 boar and venison are frequently sold in the shops in many 
 of the towns about it. We passed near Monte Oliveto, 
 where the monastery of that Order is pleasantly situated, 
 and worth seeing. Passing over a bridge, which by the 
 inscription, appears to have been built by Prince Matthias, 
 we went through Buon-Convento, famous for the death of 
 the Emperor, Henry VII., who was here poisoned with 
 the holy Eucharist. Thence, we came to Torrinieri, where 
 we dined. This village is in a sweet valley, in view of 
 Montalcino, famous for the rare Muscatello. f After 
 three miles more, we go by St. Quirico, and lay at a private 
 osteria near it, where, after we were provided of lodging, 
 came in Cardinal Donghi, a Genoese by birth, now come 
 from Home ; he was so civil as to entertain us with great 
 respect, hearing we were English, for that, he told us he 
 had been once in our country. Amongst other discourse, 
 he related how a dove had been seen to sit on the chair in the 
 Conclave at the election of Pope Innocent, which he mag- 
 nified as a great good omen, with other particulars which 
 we inquired of him, till our suppers parted us. He came 
 in great state with his own bedstead and all the furniture, 
 yet would by no means suffer us to resign the room we had 
 taken up in the lodging before his arrival. Next morning, 
 we rode by Monte Pientio, or, as vulgarly called, Monte 
 Mantumiato, which is of an excessive height, ever and anon 
 peeping above any clouds with its snowy head, till we had 
 climbed to the inn at Radicofani, built by Ferdinand, the 
 great Duke, for the necessary refreshment of travellers in 
 so inhospitable a place. As we ascended, we entered a 
 
 * John Baptista Pamphili, chosen Pope in October, 1644, died in 1655. 
 f A wine.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 99 
 
 very thick, solid, and dark body of clouds, looking like 
 rocks at a little distance, which lasted near a mile in going 
 up ; they were dry misty vapours, hanging undissolved for 
 a vast thickness, and obscuring both the sun and earth, so 
 that we seemed to be in the sea rather than in the clouds, 
 till, having pierced through it, we came into a most serene 
 heaven, as if we had been above all human conversation, 
 the mountain appearing more like a great island than 
 joined to any other hills ; for we could perceive nothing but 
 a sea of thick clouds rolling under our feet like huge waves, 
 every now and then suffering the top of some other mountain 
 to peep through, which we could discover many miles off : 
 and between some breaches of the clouds we could see 
 landscapes and villages of the subjacent country. This 
 was one of the most pleasant, new, and altogether sur- 
 prising objects that I had ever beheld. 
 
 On the summit of this horrid rock (for so it is) is built a 
 very strong fort, garrisoned, and somewhat beneath it is a 
 small town ; the provisions are drawn up with ropes and 
 engines, the precipice being otherwise inaccessible. At 
 one end of the town lie heaps of rocks so strangely broken 
 off from the rugged mountain, as would affright one with 
 their horror and menacing postures. Just opposite to the 
 inn gushed out a plentiful and most useful fountain which 
 falls into a great trough of stone, bearing the Duke of Tus- 
 cany's arms. Here we dined, and I with my black lead 
 pen took the prospect.* It is one of the utmost confines 
 of the Etrurian State towards St. Peter's Patrimony, since 
 the gift of Matilda to Gregory VII., as is pretended. 
 
 Here we pass a stone bridge, built by Pope Gregory 
 XIV., and thence immediately to Acquapendente,f a town 
 situated on a very ragged rock, down which precipitates an 
 entire river (which gives it the denomination), with a most 
 horrid roaring noise. We lay at the post-house, on which 
 is this inscription : 
 
 L'Insegna della Posta/e posta a posta, 
 In questa posta, fin che habbia a sua posta 
 Ogn' un Cavallo a Vetturi in Posta. 
 
 Before it was dark, we went to see the Monastery of the 
 
 * An etching of it, with others, is in the library at Wotton. 
 + Twelve miles from the Duke's inn, according to Lassells. 
 
 H 2
 
 [00 DIARY OF [VITEUBO, 
 
 Franciscans, famous for six learned Popes, and sundry other 
 great scholars, especially the renowned physician and ana- 
 tomist, Fabricius de Acquapendente, who was bred and born 
 there. 
 
 4th. After a little riding, we descend towards the Lake 
 of Bolsena, which, being above twenty miles in circuit, 
 yields from hence a most incomparable prospect. Hear 
 the middle of it are two small islands, in one of which 
 is a convent of melancholy Capuchins, where those of the 
 Farnesian family are interred. Pliny calls it Tarquiniensis 
 Lacus, and talks of divers floating islands about it, but they 
 did not appear to us. The lake is environed with moun- 
 tains, at one of whose sides we passed towards the town 
 Bolsena, anciently Volsinium, famous in those times, as 
 is testified by divers rare sculptures in the court of St. 
 Christiana's church, the urn, altar, and jasper columns. 
 
 After seven miles' riding, passing through a wood here- 
 tofore sacred to Juno, we came to Montefiascone, the head 
 of the Falisci, a famous people in old time, and heretofore 
 Falernum, as renowned for its excellent wine, as now for 
 the story of the Dutch Bishop, who lies buried in St. 
 Flavian's church with this epitaph : 
 
 Propter Est, Est, dominus meus mortuus est. 
 
 Because, having ordered his servant to ride before, and 
 enquire where the best wine was, and there write Est, the 
 man found some so good that he wrote Est, Est, upon the 
 vessels, and the Bishop drinking too much of it, died. 
 
 From Montefiascone, we travel a plain and pleasant 
 champain to Viterbo, which presents itself with much state 
 afar off, in regard of her many lofty pinnacles and towers ; 
 neither does it deceive our expectation ; for it is exceedingly 
 beautified with public fountains, especially that at the 
 entrance, which is all of brass and adorned with many rare 
 figures, and salutes the passenger with a most agreeable 
 object and refreshing waters. There are many Popes 
 buried in this city, and in the palace is this odd inscription : 
 
 " Osiridis victoriam in Gigantas litteris historiographicis in hoc anti- 
 <juissimo mat-more inscriptam, ex Herculis olim, nunc Divi Laurentij 
 Templo translatam, ad conversanda : vetustiss : patriae monumenta atq' 
 decora hie locandum statuit S.P.Q.V."
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 101 
 
 Under it : 
 
 Sum Osiris Rex Ju- Sum Osiris Rex qui Sum Osiris Rex qui 
 
 piter universe in terra- ab Itala in Gigantes terrarum pacata Ita- 
 
 rum orbe. exercitus veni, vidi, et liamdecema'nos quo- 
 
 vici. rum inventor fui. 
 
 Near the town is a sulphureous fountain, which conti- 
 nually boils. After dinner, we took horse by the new way 
 of Capranica, and so passing near Mount Ciminus and the 
 Lake, we began to enter the plains of Rome; at which 
 sight my thoughts were strangely elevated, but soon 
 allayed by so violent a shower which fell just as we were 
 contemplating that proud Mistress of the world, and 
 descending by the Vatican (for at that gate we entered), 
 that before we got into the city, I was wet to the skin. 
 
 I came to Rome on the 4th November, 1644, about five 
 at night ; and, being perplexed for a convenient lodging, 
 wandered up and down on horseback, till at last one con- 
 ducted us to Monsieur Petit's, a Frenchman, near the 
 Piazza Spagnola. Here I alighted, and, having bargained 
 with my host for twenty crowns a month, I caused a good 
 fire to be made in my chamber and went to bed, being so 
 very wet. The next morning (for I was resolved to spend 
 no time idly here) I got acquainted with several persons 
 who had long lived at Rome. I was especially recommended 
 to Father John, a Benedictine monk and Superior of his 
 Order for the English College of Douay, a person of sin- 
 gular learning, religion, and humanity ; also to Mr. Patrick 
 Gary, an Abbot, brother to our learned Lord Falkland, a 
 witty young priest, who afterwards came over to our 
 church ; Dr. Bacon and Dr. Gibbs,* physicians who had 
 dependence on Cardinal Caponi, the latter being an excel- 
 lent poet ; Father Courtney, the Chief of the Jesuits in the 
 English College; my Lord of Somerset, brother to the 
 Marquis of Worcester; and some others, from whom I 
 received instructions how to behave in town, with directions 
 
 James Alban Gibbs, a Scotchman bred at Oxford, who resided many 
 years at Rome, where he died 1677, and was buried in the Pantheon there, 
 with an epitaph to his memory under a marble bust of him. He was an 
 extraordinary character. In Wood's Athense is a long account of him, and 
 also some curious particulars in Warton's Life of Dr. Bathurst ; he was a 
 great writer of Latin poetry, a small collection of which he published at Rome, 
 to which is prefixed his portrait neatly engraved.
 
 102 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 to masters and books to take in search of the anti- 
 quities, churches, collections, &c. Accordingly, the next 
 day, November 6, I began to be very pragmatical.* 
 
 In the first place, our Sights-manf (for so they name 
 certain persons here who get their living by leading 
 strangers about to see the city) went to the Palace Farnese, 
 a magnificent square structure, built by Michael Angelo, 
 of the three orders of columns after the ancient manner, 
 and when architecture was but newly recovered from the 
 Gothic barbarity. The court is square and terraced, having 
 two pair of stairs which lead to the upper rooms, and con- 
 ducted us to that famous gallery painted by Augustine 
 Caracci, than which nothing is more rare of that art ; so 
 deep and well-studied are all the figures, that it would 
 require more judgment than I confess I had, to determine 
 whether they were flat, or embossed. Thence, we passed 
 into another, painted in chiaroscuro, representing the 
 fabulous history of Hercules. We went out on a terrace, 
 where was a pretty garden on the leads, for it is built in a 
 place that has no extent of ground backwards. The 
 great hall is wrought by Salviati and Zuccharo, furnished 
 with statues, one of which being modern is the figure of a 
 Farnese, in a triumphant posture, of white marble, worthy 
 of admiration. Here, we were showed the Museum of 
 Fulvius Ursinos, replete with innumerable collections ; but 
 the Major-Domo being absent, we could not at this time 
 see all we wished. Descending into the court, we with 
 astonishment contemplated those two incomparable statues 
 of Hercules and Flora, so much celebrated by Pliny, and 
 indeed by all antiquity, as two of the most rare pieces in 
 the world : there likewise stands a modern statue of Her- 
 cules and two Gladiators, not to be despised. In a second 
 court was a temporary shelter of boards over the most stu- 
 pendous and never-to-be-sufficiently-admired Torso of Am- 
 phion and Dirce, represented in five figures, exceeding the 
 life in magnitude, of the purest white marble, the contend- 
 ing work of those famous statuaries, Apollonius and Tau- 
 risco, in the time of Augustus, hewed out of one entire 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn must mean this in a good sense, very active and full of busi- 
 ness, viz. what he came upon, to view the antiquities and beauties of Rome. 
 
 + The present name for these gentlemen is with the Italians a Cicerone, 
 but they affect universally the title of antiquaries.
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 103 
 
 stone, and remaining unblemished, to be valued beyond all 
 the marbles of the world for its antiquity and workmanship. 
 There are divers other heads and busts. At the entrance 
 of this stately palace stand two rare and vast fountains of 
 garnito stone, brought into this piazza out of Titus' s Baths. 
 Here, in summer, the gentlemen of Rome take the fresco in 
 their coaches and on foot. At the sides of this court, we 
 visited the Palace of Signor Pichini, who has a good collec- 
 tion of antiquities, especially the Adonis of Parian marble, 
 which my Lord Arundel would once have purchased, if a 
 great price would have been taken for it. 
 
 We went into the Campo Vaccino, by the ruins of the 
 Temple of Peace, built by Titus Vespasianus, and thought 
 to be the largest as well as the most richly furnished of all 
 the Roman dedicated places : it is now a heap rather than 
 a temple, yet the roof and volto continue firm, showing it 
 to have been formerly of incomparable workmanship. 
 This goodly structure was, none knows how, consumed by 
 fire the very night, by all computation, that our Blessed 
 Saviour was born. 
 
 From hence, we passed by the place into which Curtius 
 precipitated himself for the love of his country, now with- 
 out any sign of a lake, or vorago. Near this stand some 
 columns of white marble, of exquisite work, supposed to be 
 part of the Temple of Jupiter Tonans, built by Augustus ; 
 the work of the capitals (being Corinthian) and architrave 
 is excellent, full of sacrificing utensils. There are three 
 other of Jupiter Stator. Opposite to these, are the ora- 
 tories, or churches, of St. Cosmo and Damiano, heretofore 
 the Temples of Romulus ; a pretty odd fabric, with a tri- 
 bunal, or tholus within, wrought all of Mosaic. The gates 
 before it are brass, and the whole much obliged to Pope 
 Urban VIII. In this sacred place lie the bodies of those 
 two martyrs ; and, in a chapel on the right hand, is a rare 
 painting of Cavaliere Baglioni. 
 
 We next entered St. Lorenzo in Miranda. The portico 
 is supported by a range of most stately columns; the 
 inscription cut in the architrave shows it to have been the 
 Temple of Faustina. It is now made a fair church, and 
 has an hospital which joins it. On the same side is St. 
 Adriano, heretofore dedicated to Saturn. Before this was 
 pnce placed a milliary column, supposed to be set in the
 
 104 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 centre of the city, from whence they used to compute the 
 distance of all the cities and places of note under the 
 dominion of those universal monarchs. To this church are 
 likewise brazen gates and a noble front : just opposite we 
 saw the heaps and ruins of Cicero's Palace. Hence we went 
 towards Mons Capitolinus, at the foot of which stands the 
 arch of Septimius Sever us, full and entire, save where the 
 pedestal and some of the lower members are choked up 
 with ruins and earth. This arch is exceedingly enriched 
 with sculpture and trophies, with a large inscription. In 
 the terrestrial and naval battles here graven, is seen the 
 Roman Aries [the battering-ram] ; and this was the first 
 triumphal arch set up in Borne. The Capitol, to which 
 we climbed by very broad steps, is built about a square 
 court, at the right hand of which, going up from Campo 
 Vaccino, gushes a plentiful stream from the statue of 
 Tyber, in porphyry, very antique, and another representing 
 Rome ; but, above all, is the admirable figure of Marforius, 
 casting water into a most ample concha. The front of this 
 court is crowned with an excellent fabric containing the 
 Courts of Justice, and where the Criminal Notary sits, and 
 others. In one of the halls they show the statues of 
 Gregory XIII. and Paul III., with several others. To 
 this joins a handsome tower, the whole facciata adorned with 
 noble statues, both on the outside and on the battlements, 
 ascended by a double pair of stairs, and a stately Posario. 
 In the centre of the court stands that incomparable 
 horse bearing the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, as big as the 
 life, of Corinthian metal, placed on a pedestal of marble, 
 esteemed one of the noblest pieces of work now extant, 
 antique and very rare. There is also a vast head of a 
 colossean magnitude, of white marble fixed in the wall. 
 At the descending stairs are set two horses of white marble 
 governed by two naked slaves, taken to be Castor and 
 Pollux, brought from Pompey's Theatre. On the balus- 
 trade, the trophies of Marius against the Cmibrians, very 
 ancient and instructive. At the foot of the steps towards 
 the left hand is that Colonna Miliaria, with the globe of 
 brass on it, mentioned to have been formerly set in Campo 
 Vaccino. On the same hand, is the Palace of the Segniori 
 Conservator!, or three Consuls, now the civil governors of 
 the city, containing the fraternities, or halls and guilds.,
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 105 
 
 (as we call them) of sundry companies, and other offices 
 of state. Under the portico within, are the statues of 
 Augustus Caesar, a Bacchus, and the so renowned Colonna 
 Rostrata of Duillius, with the excellent bassi relievi. In 
 a smaller court, the statue of Constantine, on a fountain, a 
 Minerva's head of brass, and that of Commodus, to which 
 belongs a hand, the thumb whereof is at least an ell long, 
 and yet proportionable ; but the rest of the Colosse is lost. 
 In the corner of this court stand a horse and lion fighting, 
 as big as life, in white marble, exceedingly valued ; like- 
 wise the Rape of the Sabines ; two cumbent figures of 
 Alexander and Mammea ; two monstrous feet of a colosse 
 of Apollo ; the sepulchre of Agrippina ; and the standard, 
 or antique measure, of the Roman foot. Ascending by the 
 steps of the other corner, are inserted four basso-relievos, 
 viz. the triumph and sacrifice of Marcus Aurelius, which 
 last, for the antiquity and rareness of the work, I caused 
 my painter, Carlo Neapolitano, to copy. There are also 
 two statues of the Muses, and one of Adrian, the Emperor : 
 above stands the figure of Marius, and by the wall Marsyas 
 bound tS a tree ; all of them excellent and antique. Above, 
 in the lobby, are inserted into the walls those ancient laws, 
 on brass, called the Twelve Tables ; a fair Madonna of 
 Pietro Perugino, painted on the wall ; near which are the 
 archives, full of ancient records. 
 
 In the great hall are divers excellent paintings of Cava- 
 liero Giuseppe d'Arpino, a statue in brass of Sextus V. 
 and of Leo X., of marble. In another hall, are many 
 modern statues of their late Consuls and Governors, set 
 about with fine antique heads; others are painted by 
 excellent masters, representing the actions of M. Scaevola, 
 Horatius Codes, &c. The room where the Conservator! 
 now feast upon solemn days, is tapestried with crimson 
 damask, embroidered with gold, having a state or baldu- 
 quino of crimson velvet, very rich ; the frieze above rarely 
 painted. Here are in brass, Romulus and Remus sucking 
 the wolf, of brass, with the Shepherd, Faustulus, by them; 
 also the boy plucking the thorn out of his foot, of brass, so 
 much admired by artists. There are also holy statues and 
 heads of Saints. In a gallery near adjoining are the names 
 of the ancient Consuls, Praetors, and Fasti Romani, so 
 celebrated by the learned ; also the figure of an old woman;
 
 106 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 two others representing Poverty ; and more in fragments. 
 In another large room, furnished with velvet, are the 
 statue of Adonis, very rare, and divers antique heads. In 
 the next chamber, is an old statue of Cicero, one of another 
 Consul, a Hercules in brass, two women's heads of incom- 
 parable work, six other statues ; and, over the chimney, a 
 very rare basso-relievo, and other figures. In a little 
 lobby before the chapel, is the statue of Hannibal, a 
 Bacchus very antique, bustos of Pan and Mercury, with 
 other old heads. All these noble statues, &c., belong to 
 the city, and cannot be disposed of to any private person, 
 or removed hence, but are preserved for the honour of the 
 place, though great sums have been offered for them by 
 divers Princes, lovers of art and antiquity. We now left 
 the Capitol, certainly one of the most renowned places in 
 the world, even as now built by the design of the famous 
 M. Angelo. 
 
 Returning home by Ara Coeli, we mounted to it by 
 more than 100 marble steps, not in devotion, as I observed 
 some to do on their bare knees, but to see those two 
 famous statues of Constantine, in white marble, placed 
 there out of his baths. In this Church is a Madonna, 
 reported to be painted by St. Luke, and a column, on 
 which we saw the print of a foot, which they affirm to have 
 been that of the Angel, seen on the Castle of St. Angelo. 
 Here the feast of our Blessed Saviour's nativity being 
 yearly celebrated with divers pageants, they began to make 
 the preparation. Having viewed the Palace and fountain, 
 at the other side of the stairs, we returned weary to our 
 lodgings. 
 
 On the 7th, we went again near the Capitol, towards 
 the Tarpeian rock, where it has a goodly prospect of the 
 Tyber. Thence, descending by the Tullianum, where 
 they told us St. Peter was imprisoned, they showed us a 
 chapel (S. Pietro de Vincoli) in which a rocky side of it 
 bears the impression of his face. In the nave of the 
 church gushes a fountain, which they say was caused by 
 the Apostle's prayers, when having converted some of his 
 fellow -captives he wanted water to make them Christians. 
 The painting of the Ascension is by Raphael. We 
 then Avalked about Mount Palatinus and the Aventine, 
 and thence to the Circus Maximus, capable of holding
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 107 
 
 40,000 spectators, now a heap of ruins, converted into 
 gardens. Then, by the Forum Boarium, where they have 
 a tradition that Hercules slew Cacus, some ruins of his 
 temple remaining. The Temple of Janus Quadrifrons, 
 having four arches, importing the four Seasons, and on 
 each side niches for the months, is still a substantial and 
 pretty entire antiquity. Near to this is the Arcus Argen- 
 tariorum. Bending now towards the Tyber, we went into 
 the Theatre of Marcellus, which would hold 80,000 per- 
 sons, built by Augustus, and dedicated to his nephew ; the 
 architecture, from what remains, appears to be inferior to 
 none. It is now wholly converted into the house of the 
 Savelli, one of the old Roman families. The people were 
 now generally busy in erecting temporary triumphs and 
 arches with statues and flattering inscriptions against his 
 Holiness's grand procession to St. John di Laterani, 
 amongst which the Jews also began one in testimony of 
 gratitude for their protection under the Papal State. The 
 Palazzo Barberini, designed by the present Pope's archi- 
 tect, Cavaliero Bernini, seems from the size to be as princely 
 an object, as any modern building in Europe. It has a 
 double portico, at the end of which we ascended by two 
 pair of oval stairs, all of stone, and void in the well. One of 
 these led us into a stately hall, the volto whereof was newly 
 painted a fresco, by the rare hand of Pietro Berretini il 
 Cortone. To this is annexed a gallery completely fur- 
 nished with whatever art can call rare and singular, and a 
 library full of worthy collections, medals, marbles, and 
 manuscripts ; but, above all, an Egyptian Osyris, remark- 
 able for its unknown material and antiquity. In one of 
 the rooms near this hangs the Sposaliccio of St. Sebastian, 
 the original of Annibal Caracci, of which I procured a 
 copy, little inferior to the prototype ; a table, in my judg- 
 ment, superior to anything I had seen in Rome. In the 
 court is a vast broken guglia, or obelisk, having divers 
 hieroglyphics cut on it. 
 
 8th. We visited the Jesuit's Church, the front whereof 
 is esteemed a noble piece of architecture, the design 
 of Jacomo della Porta, and the famous Vignola. In this 
 church lies the body of their renowned Ignatius Loyola, 
 an arm of Xaverius, their other Apostle; and, at the 
 right end of their high altar, their champion, Cardinal
 
 108 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 Bellarmine. Here, Father Kircher (professor of Mathe- 
 matics and the oriental tongues) showed us many singular 
 courtesies, leading us into their refectory, dispensatory, 
 laboratory, gardens, and finally (through a hall hung 
 round with pictures of such of their order as had been 
 executed for their pragmatical and busy adventures) into 
 his own study, where, with Dutch patience, he showed us 
 his perpetual motions, catoptrics, magnetical experiments, 
 models, and a thousand other crotchets and devices, most 
 of them since published by himself, or his industrious 
 scholar, Schotti. 
 
 Returning home, we had time to view the Palazzo de 
 Medicis, which was an house 'of the Duke of Florence 
 near our lodging, upon the brow of Mons Pincius, having 
 a fine prospect towards the Campo Marzo. It is a magni- 
 ficent, strong building, with a substruction very remarkable, 
 and a portico supported with columns towards the gardens, 
 with two huge lions, of marble, at the end of the balustrade. 
 The whole outside of ihefacciata is incrusted with antique 
 and rare basso-relievos and statues. Descending into the 
 garden, is a noble fountain governed by a Mercury of 
 brass. At a little distance, on the left, is a lodge full of 
 fine statues, amongst which the Sabines, antique and 
 singularly rare. In the arcade near this stand twenty- 
 four statues of great price, and hard by is a mount planted 
 with cypresses, representing a fortress, with a goodly 
 fountain in the middle. Here is also a row balustred with 
 white marble, covered over with the natural shrubs, ivy, 
 and other perennial greens, divers statues and heads being 
 placed as in niches. At a little distance, are those famed 
 statues of Niobe and her family, in all fifteen, as large as 
 the life, of which we have ample mention in Pliny, esteemed 
 among the best pieces of work in the world for the passions 
 they express, and all other perfections of that stupendous 
 art. There is likewise in this garden a fair obelisk, full of 
 hieroglyphics. In going out, the fountain before the front 
 casts water near fifty feet in height, when it is received in 
 a most ample marble basin. Here they usually rode the 
 great horse every morning ; which gave me much diversion 
 from the terrace of my own chamber, where I could see all 
 their motions. This evening, I was invited to hear rare 
 music at the Chie'sa Nova ; the black marble pillars within
 
 1C44.] JOHN EVELYN. 109 
 
 led us to that most precious oratory of Philippus Nerius, 
 their founder ; they being of the oratory of secular priests, 
 under no vow. There are in it divers good pictures, as 
 the Assumption of Girolamo Mutiano ; the Crucifix ; the 
 Visitation of Elizabeth ; the Presentation of the Blessed 
 Virgin; Christo Sepolto, of Guido Rheno, Caravaggio, 
 Arpino, and others. This fair church consists of fourteen 
 altars, and as many chapels. In it is buried (besides their 
 Saint) Caesar Baronius, the great annalist. Through this, 
 we went into the sacrista, where, the tapers being lighted, 
 one of the Order preached ; after him stepped up a child 
 of eight, or nine years old, who pronounced an oration 
 with so much grace, that I never was better pleased than 
 to hear Italian so well and so intelligently spoken. This 
 course it seems they frequently use, to bring their scholars 
 to a habit of speaking distinctly, and forming their action 
 and assurance, which none so much want as ours in 
 England. This being finished, began their motettos, which, 
 in a lofty cupola richly painted, were sung by eunuchs, 
 and other rare voices, accompanied by theorboes, harpsi- 
 chords, and viols, so that we were even ravished with the 
 entertainment of the evening. This room is painted by 
 Cortona, and has in it two figures in the niches, and the 
 church stands in one of the most stately streets of Rome. 
 
 10th. We went to see Prince Ludovisio's villa, where 
 was formerly the Viridartum of the poet, Sallust. The 
 house is very magnificent, and the extent of the ground 
 exceedingly large, considering that it is in a city ; in 
 every quarter of the garden are antique statues, and walks 
 planted with cypress. To this garden belongs a house 
 of retirement, built in the figure of a cross, after a par- 
 ticular ordonnance, especially the staircase. The whiteness 
 and smoothness of the excellent pargeting was a thing 
 I much observed, being almost as even and polished, as if 
 it had been of marble. Above, is a fair prospect of the 
 city. In one of the chambers hang two famous pieces of 
 Bassano, the one a Vulcan, the other a Nativity ; there is 
 a German clock full of rare and extraordinary motions ; 
 and, in a little room below, are many precious marbles, 
 columns, urns, vases, and noble statues of porphyry, oriental 
 alabaster, and other rare materials. About this fabric is 
 an ample area, environed with sixteen vast jars of red
 
 1JO DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 earth, wherein the Romans used to preserve their oil, or 
 wine rather, which they buried, and such as are properly 
 called testa. In the Palace I must never forget the famous 
 statue of the Gladiator, spoken of by Pliny, so much 
 followed by all the rare artists as the many copies testify, 
 dispersed through almost all Europe, both in stone and 
 metal. There is also a Hercules^a head of porphyry, and 
 one of Marcus Aurelius. In the villa-house is a man's 
 body flesh and all, petrified, and even converted to marble, 
 as it was found in the Alps, and sent by the Emperor to 
 one of the Popes ; it lay in a chest, or coffin, lined with 
 black velvet, and one of the arms being broken, you may 
 see the perfect bone from the flesh which remains entire. 
 The Rape of Proserpine, in marble, is of the purest white, 
 the work of Bernini. In the cabinet near it are innume- 
 rable small brass figures, and other curiosities. But what 
 some look upon as exceeding all the rest, is a very rich 
 bedstead (which sort of gross furniture the Italians much 
 glory in, as formerly did our grandfathers in England in 
 their inlaid wooden ones) inlaid with all sorts of precious 
 stones and antique heads, onyxes, agates, and cornelians, 
 esteemed to be worth 80 or 90,000 crowns. Here are also 
 divers cabinets and tables of the Florence work, besides 
 pictures in the gallery, especially the Apollo a conceited 
 chair to sleep in with the legs stretched out, with hooks, 
 and pieces of wood to draw out longer or shorter. 
 
 From this villa, we went to see Signor Angeloni's study, 
 who very courteously showed us such a collection of rare 
 medals as is hardly to be paralleled ; divers good pictures, 
 and many outlandish and Indian curiosities, and things 
 of nature. 
 
 From him, we walked to Monte Cavallo, heretofore 
 called Mons Quirinalis, where we saw those two rare 
 horses, the work of the rivals Phidias and Praxiteles, 
 as they were sent to Nero [by Tiridates King] out of 
 Armenia. They were placed on pedestals of white marble 
 by Sextus V., by whom I suppose their injuries were 
 repaired, and are governed by four naked slaves, like 
 those at the foot of the Capitol. Here runs a most noble 
 fountain, regarding four of the most stately streets for 
 building and beauty to be seen in any city of Europe. 
 Opposite to these statues is the Pope's summer palace,
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. ]_]_]_ 
 
 built by Gregory XIII.; and, in ray opinion, it is, for 
 largeness and the architecture, one of the most conspicuous 
 in Rome, having a stately portico which leads round the 
 court under columns, in the centre of which there runs a 
 beautiful fountain. The chapel is incrusted with such 
 precious materials, that nothing can be more rich, or 
 glorious, nor are the other ornaments and moveables about 
 it at all inferior. The hall is painted by Lanfranci, and 
 others. The garden, which is called the Belvedere di 
 Monte Cavallo, in emulation to that of the Vatican, is 
 most excellent for air and prospect ; its exquisite fountains, 
 close walks, grots, piscinas, or stews for fish, planted 
 about with venerable cypresses, and refreshed with water- 
 music, aviaries, and other rarities. 
 
 1 2th. We saw Dioclesian's Baths, whoseruins testify the 
 vastness of the original foundation and magnificence; 
 by what M. Angelo took from the ornaments about it, 
 'tis said he restored the then almost lostart of archi- 
 tecture. This monstrous pile was built by the labour of 
 the primitive Christians, then under one of the ten great 
 persecutions. The Church of St. Bernardo is made out 
 of one only of these ruinous cupolas, and is in the form 
 of an urn with a cover. 
 
 Opposite to this, is the Fontana delle Therme, otherwise 
 called Fans Felix ; in it is a basso-relievo of white marble, 
 representing Moses striking the rock, which is adorned 
 with camels, men, women, and children drinking, as large 
 as life ; a work for the design and vastness truly magnifi- 
 cent. The water is conveyed no less than twenty-two 
 miles in an aqueduct by Sextus V. ex agro Columna, by 
 way of Prseneste as the inscription testifies. It gushes 
 into three ample lavers raised about with stone, before 
 which are placed two lions of a strange black stone, very 
 rare and antique. Near this are the store-houses for the 
 city's corn, and over-against it the Church of St. Susanna, 
 where were the gardens of Sallust. The facciata of this 
 church is noble, the soffito within gilded and full of 
 pictures ; especially famous is that of Susanna, by Baldassa 
 di Bologna. The tribunal of the high altar is of exquisite 
 work, from whose marble steps you descend under-ground 
 to the repository of divers Saints. The picture over this
 
 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 altar is the work of Jacomo Siciliano. The foundation is 
 for Bernadine Nuns. 
 
 Santa Maria della Vittoria presents us with the most 
 ravishing front. In this church was sung the Te Deum 
 by Gregory XV., after the signal victory of the Emperor 
 at Prague ; the standards then taken still hang up, and 
 the impress waving this motto over the Pope's arms, 
 Extirpentur, I observed that the high altar was much 
 frequented for an image of the Virgin. It has some rare 
 statues : as Paul ravished into the third heaven, by Fia- 
 mingo, and some good pictures. From this, we bent 
 towards Dioclesian's Baths, never satisfied with contem- 
 plating that immense pile, in building which 150,000 
 Christians were destined to labour fourteen years, and 
 were then all murdered. Here is a monastery of Carthu- 
 sians, called Santa Maria degli Angeli, the architecture of 
 M. Angelo, and the cloister encompassing walls in an 
 ample garden. 
 
 Mont Alto's villa is entered by a stately gate of stone 
 built on the Viminalis, and is no other than a spacious 
 park full of fountains, especially that which salutes us at the 
 front ; stews for fish ; the cypress walks are so beset with 
 statues, inscriptions, relievos, and other ancient marbles, 
 that nothing can be more stately and solemn. The citron 
 trees are uncommonly large. In the Palace joining to it 
 are innumerable collections of value. Returning, we 
 stepped into St. Agnes church, where there is a tribunal of 
 antique mosaic, and on the altar a most rich ciborio of 
 brass, with a statue of St. Agnes in oriental alabaster. 
 The church of Santa Constanza has a noble cupola. Here 
 they showed us a stone ship borne on a column heretofore 
 sacred to Bacchus, as the relievo intimates by the drunken 
 emblems and instruments wrought upon it. The altar is 
 of rich porphyry, as I remember. Looking back, we had 
 the entire view of the Via Pia down to the two horses 
 before the Monte Cavallo, before mentioned, one of the 
 most glorious sights for state and magnificence that any 
 city can shoAV a traveller. We returned by Porta Pia and 
 the Via Salaria, near Campo Scelerato, in whose gloomy 
 caves the wanton Vestals were heretofore immured alive. 
 
 Thence to Via Felix, a straight and noble street, but
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 113 
 
 very precipitous, till we came to the four fountains of 
 Lepidus, built at the abutments of four stately ways, 
 making an exact cross of right angles; and, at the 
 fountains, are as many cumbent figures of marble, under 
 very large niches of stone, the water pouring into huge 
 basins. The church of St. Carlo is a singular fabric for 
 neatness, of an oval design, built of a new white stone ; 
 the columns are worth notice. Under it is another church 
 of a structure nothing less admirable. 
 
 Next, we came to Santa Maria Maggiore, built upon the 
 Esquiline Mountain, which gives it a most conspicuous 
 face to the street at a great distance. The design is mixed, 
 partly antique, partly modern. Here they affirm that the 
 Blessed Virgin appearing, showed where it should be built 
 300 years since. The first pavement is rare and antique ; 
 so is the portico built by P. P. Eugenius II. The ciborio 
 is the work of Paris Romano, and the tribunal of Mosaic. 
 
 We were showed in the church a concha of porphyry, 
 wherein they say Patricius, the founder, lies. This is one 
 of the most famous of the seven Roman Churches, and is, 
 in my opinion at least, after St. Peter's, the most magnifi- 
 cent. Above all, for incomparable glory and materials, 
 are the two chapels of Sextus V. and Paulus V. That of 
 Sextus was designed by Dom. Fontana, in which are two 
 rare great statues, and some good pieces of painting ; anr 1 
 here they pretended to show some of the Holy Innocents* 
 bodies slain by Herod : as also that renowned tabernacle 
 of metal, gilt, sustained by four angels, holding as many 
 tapers, placed on the altar. In this chapel is the statue of 
 Sextus, in copper, with basso-relievos of most of his famous 
 acts, in Parian marble ; but that of P. Paulus, which we 
 next entered, opposite to this, is beyond all imagination 
 glorious, and above description. It is so encircled with 
 agates, and other most precious materials, as to dazzle and 
 confound the beholders. The basso-relievos are for the 
 most part of pure snowy marble, intermixed with figures of 
 molten brass, double gilt, on lapis lazuli. The altar is a 
 most stupendous piece; but most incomparable is the 
 cupola painted by Giuseppe Rheni, and the present Bagli- 
 oni, full of exquisite sculptures. There is a most sumptuous 
 sacristia ; and the piece over the altar was by the hand of 
 St. Luke; if you will believe it. Paulus V. hath here 
 
 VOL. I. I
 
 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 likewise built two other altars ; under the one lie the bones 
 of the Apostle, St. Matthias. In another oratory, is the 
 statue of this Pope, and the head of the Congo Ambassador, 
 who was converted at Rome, and died here. In a third 
 chapel, designed by Michael Angelo, lie the bodies of Platina, 
 and the Cardinal of Toledo, Honorius III., Nicephorus IV., 
 the ashes of St. Hierom, and many others. In that of 
 Sextus V., before mentioned, was showed us part of the 
 crib in which Christ was swaddled at Bethlehem ; there is 
 also the statue of Pius V. ; and, going out at the further 
 end, is the resurrection of Lazarus, by a very rare hand. 
 In the portico, is this late inscription : " Cardinal Antonio 
 Barberino Archypresbytero, aream marmoream quam 
 Christianorum pietas exsculpsit, laborante sub Tyrannis 
 ecclesia, ut esset loci sanctitate venerabilior, Franciscus 
 Gualdus Arm. Eques S. Stephani e suis sedibus hue trans- 
 tulit et ornavit, 1632." Just before this portico, stands a 
 very sublime and stately Corinthian column, of white 
 marble, translated hither for an ornament from the old 
 Temple of Peace, built by Vespasian, having on the plinth 
 of the capital the image of our Lady, gilt on metal ; at the 
 pedestal runs a fountain. Going down the hill, we saw the 
 obelisk taken from the Mausoleum of Augustus, and 
 erected in this place by Domenico Fontana, with this 
 epigraph : " Sextus V. Pont. Max. Obeliscum ex Egypto 
 advectum, Augusti in Mausoleo dicatum, eversum, deinde 
 et in plures confractum partes, in via ad S. Rochum 
 jacentem, in pristinam faciem restitution Salutiferse Cruci 
 felicius hie erigi jussit, anno MDLXXXVIII., Pont. Ill" : 
 and so we came weary to our lodgings. 
 
 At the foot of this hill, is the Church of St. Prudentia, 
 in which is a well filled with the blood and bones of several 
 martyrs, but grated over with iron, and visited by many 
 devotees. Near this stands the church of her sister, 
 S. Praxedeis, much frequented for the same reason. In a 
 little obscure place, cancelled in with iron work, is the 
 pillar, or stump, at which they relate our Blessed Saviour 
 was scourged, being full of bloody spots, at which the 
 devout sex are always rubbing their chaplets, and convey 
 their kisses by a stick having a tassel on it. Here, besides 
 a noble statue of St. Peter, is the tomb of the famous 
 Cardinal Cajetan, an excellent piece : and here they hold
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 115 
 
 that St. Peter said his first mass at Rome, with the same 
 altar and the stone he kneeled on, he having been first 
 lodged in this house, as they compute about the forty- 
 fourth year of the Incarnation. They also show many 
 relics, or rather rags, of his mantle. St. Laurence in 
 Panisperna did next invite us, where that martyr was 
 cruelly broiled on the gridiron, there yet remaining. St. 
 Bridget is buried in this church under a stately monument. 
 In the front of the pile is the suffering of St. Laurence 
 painted a fresco on the wall. The fabric is nothing but 
 Gothic. On the left, is the Therma Novatii ; and, on the 
 right, Agrippina's Lavacrum. 
 
 14th. We passed again through the stately Capitol and 
 Campo Vaccino towards the Amphitheatre of Vespasian, 
 but first stayed to look at Titus's Triumphal Arch, erected 
 by the people of Rome, in honour of his victory at Jerusa- 
 lem ; on the left hand whereof he is represented drawn in 
 a chariot with four horses abreast ; on the right-hand, or 
 side of the arch within, is sculptured in figures, or basso- 
 relievo as big as the life (and in one entire marble) the Ark 
 of the Covenant, on which stands the seven-branched 
 candlestick described in Leviticus, as also the two Tables 
 of the Law, all borne on men's shoulders by the bars, as 
 they are described in some of St. Hierom's bibles ; before 
 this, go many crowned and laureated figures, and twelve 
 Roman fasces, with other sacred vessels. This much con- 
 firmed the idea I before had ; and, therefore, for the light 
 it gave to the Holy History, I caused my painter, Carlo, to 
 copy it exactly. The rest of the work of the Arch is of the 
 noblest, best understood composita ; and the inscription is 
 this, in capital letters : 
 
 S. P. Q. R. 
 D. TITO. D. VESPASIANI, F. VESPASIANI AVGVSTO. 
 
 Santa Maria Nova is on the place where they told us 
 Simon Magus fell out of the air at St. Peter's prayer, and 
 burst himself to pieces on a flint. Near this is a marble 
 monument, erected by the people of Rome in memory of 
 the Pope's return from Avignon. 
 
 Being now passed the ruins of Meta-Sudante (which 
 stood before the Colosseum, so called, because there once 
 stood here the statue of Commodus provided to refresh 
 the gladiators), we enter the mighty ruins of the Vespasian 
 
 i 2
 
 DIARY OF [ROWET, 
 
 Amphitheatre, begun by Vespasian, and finished by that 
 excellent prince, Titus. It is 830 Roman palms in length,. 
 (i. e. 130 paces), 90 in breadth at the area, with caves for 
 the wild beasts which used to be baited by men instead of 
 dogs ; the whole oval periphery 2888^ palms, and capable 
 of containing 87,000 spectators with ease and all accom- 
 modation: the three rows of circles are yet entire; the 
 first was for the senators, the middle for the nobility, the 
 third for the people. At the dedication of this place were 
 5000 wild beasts slain in three months during which the 
 feast lasted, to the expense of ten millions of gold. It 
 was built of Tiburtine stone, a vast height, with the five 
 orders of architecture, by 30,000 captive Jews. It is 
 without, of a perfect circle, and was once adorned thick 
 with statues, and remained entire, till of late that some of 
 the stones were carried away to repair the city -walls and 
 build the Farnesian Palace. That which still appears 
 most admirable is, the contrivance of the porticos, vaults, 
 and stairs, with the excessive altitude, which well deserves 
 this distich of the poet : 
 
 Omnis Caesareo cedat labor Amphitheatre ; 
 Unum pro cunctis fama loquatur opus. 
 
 Near it is a small chapel called Santa Maria della Pieta 
 nel Colisseo, which is erected on the steps, or stages, very 
 lofty at one of its sides, or ranges, within, and where there 
 lives only a melancholy hermit. I ascended to the very 
 top of it with wonderful admiration. 
 
 The Arch of Constantine the Great is close by the Meta- 
 Sudante, before mentioned, at the beginning of the Via 
 Appia, on one side Monte Celio, and is perfectly entire, 
 erected by the people in memory of his victory over 
 Maxentius, at the Pons Milvius, now Ponte Mole. In the 
 front is this inscription : 
 
 IMP. CAES. FL. CONSTANTINO MAXIMO 
 
 P. F. AVOVSTO S. P. Q. R. 
 QUOD 1NSTINCTV DIVINITATIS MENTIS 
 
 MAONITVDINE CVM EXERCITV SVO 
 
 JAM DE TYRANNO QVAM DE OMNI EIVS 
 
 FACTIONE VNO TEMPORE IVSTIS 
 
 REMPVBLICAM VLTVS EST ARMIS 
 
 ARCVM TRIVMPHIS INSIGNEM DICAVIT. 
 
 Hence, we went to St. Gregorio, in Monte Celio, where
 
 J644.] JOHN EVELYN. 117 
 
 are many privileged altars, and there they showed us an 
 arm of that saint, and other relics. Before this church 
 stands a very noble portico. 
 
 15th. Was very wet, and I stirred not out, and the 16th 
 I went to visit Father John, Provincial of the Benedictines. 
 
 17th. I walked to Villa Borghese, a house and ample 
 garden on Mons Pincius, yet somewhat without the city- 
 walls, circumscribed by another wall full of small turrets 
 and banqueting-houses ; which makes it appear at a 
 distance like a little town. Within it is an elysium of 
 delight, having in the centre of it a noble palace ; but the 
 entrance of the garden presents us with a very glorious 
 fabric, or rather door-case, adorned with divers excellent 
 marble statues. This garden abounded with all sorts of 
 delicious fruit and exotic simples, fountains of sundry 
 inventions, groves, and small rivulets. There is also ad- 
 joining to it a vivarium for ostriches, peacocks, swans, 
 cranes, &c. and divers strange beasts, deer, and hares. 
 The grotto is* very rare, and represents, among other 
 devices, artificial rain, and sundry shapes of vessels, flowers, 
 &c. ; which is effected by changing the heads of the foun- 
 tains. The groves are of cypress, laurel, pine, myrtle, and 
 olive. The four sphinxes are very antique, and worthy 
 observation. To this is a volary, full of curious birds. 
 The house is square with turrets, from which the prospect is 
 excellent towards Rome, and the environing hills, covered 
 as they now are with snow, which indeed commonly con- 
 tinues even a great part of the summer, affording sweet 
 refreshment. Bound the house is a baluster of white 
 marble, with frequent jettos of water, and adorned with 
 a multitude of statues. The walls of the house are covered 
 with antique incrustations of history, as that of Curtius, 
 the Rape of Europa, Leda, &c. The cornices above con- 
 sist of fruitages and festoons, between which are niches 
 furnished with statues, which order is observed to the very 
 roof. In the lodge, at the entry, are divers good statues 
 of Consuls, &c., with two pieces of field-artillery upon 
 carriages, (a mode much practised in Italy before the great 
 men's houses) which they look on as a piece of state more 
 than defence. In the first hall within, are the twelve 
 Roman Emperors, of excellent marble; betwixt them 
 stand porphyry columns, and other precious stones of
 
 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 vast height and magnitude, with urns of oriental alabaster. 
 Tables of pietra-commessa : and here is that renowned 
 Diana which Pompey worshipped, of eastern marble ; the 
 most incomparable Seneca of touch, bleeding in an huge 
 vase of porphyry, resembling the drops of his blood ; the 
 so famous Gladiator, and the Hermaphrodite upon a quilt 
 of stone. The new piece of Daphne, and David, of Cava- 
 liero Bernini, is observable for the pure whiteness of the 
 stone, and the art of the statuary plainly stupendous. 
 There is a multitude of rare pictures of infinite value, by 
 the best masters; huge tables of porphyry, and two ex- 
 quisitely wrought vases of the same. In another chamber, 
 are divers sorts of instruments of music : amongst other 
 toys that of a satyr, which so artificially expressed a human 
 voice, with the motion of eyes and head, that it might 
 easily affright one who was not prepared for that most ex- 
 travagant sight. They showed us also a chair that catches 
 fast any who sits down in it, so as not to be able to stir 
 out, by certain springs concealed in the arms and back 
 thereof, which at sitting down surprises a man on the 
 sudden, locking him in by the arms and thighs, after a 
 true treacherous Italian guise. The perspective is also 
 considerable, composed by the position of looking-glasses,, 
 which render a strange multiplication of things resembling 
 divers most richly furnished rooms. Here stands a rare- 
 clock of German work; in a word, nothing but what is 
 magnificent is to be seen in this Paradise. 
 
 The next day, I went to the Vatican, where, in the 
 morning, I saw the ceremony of Pamfilio, the Pope's 
 nephew, receiving a Cardinal's hat ; this was the first time 
 I had seen his Holiness in pontificalibus. After the Car- 
 dinals and Princes had met in the consistory, the ceremony 
 was in the Pope's chapel, where he was at the altar invested 
 with most pompous rites. 
 
 19th. I visited St. Peter's, that most stupendous and 
 incomparable Basilica, far surpassing any now extant in 
 the world, and perhaps, Solomon's Temple excepted, any 
 that was ever built. The largeness of the piazza before- 
 the portico is worth observing, because it affords a noble 
 prospect of the church, not crowded up as for the most 
 part is the case in other places where great churches are 
 erected. In this is a fountain, out of which gushes a river
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 119 
 
 rather than a stream which, ascending a good height, 
 breaks upon a round emboss of marble into millions of 
 pearls that fall into the subjacent basins with great noise ; 
 I esteem this one of the goodliest fountains I ever saw. 
 
 Next is the obelisk transported out of Egypt, and dedi- 
 cated by Octavius Augustus to Julius Caesar, whose ashes 
 it formerly bore on the summit; but, being since over- 
 turned by the barbarians, was re-erected with vast cost 
 and a most stupendous invention by Domenico Fontana, 
 architect to Sextus V. The obelisk consists of one entire 
 square stone without hieroglyphics, in height seventy-two 
 feet, but comprehending the base and all it is 108 feet 
 high, and rests on four Lions of gilded copper, so as you 
 may see through the base of the obelisk and plinth of the 
 pedestal. 
 
 Upon two faces of the obelisk is engraven : 
 
 DIVO CAES. DIVI 
 
 IVLII F. AVGVSTO 
 
 TI. CAES. DIVI AVG. 
 
 F. AVG VS. SACRVM. 
 
 It now bears on the top a cross in which it is said that 
 Sextus V. inclosed some of the holy wood ; and under it is 
 to be read by good eyes : 
 
 SANCT1SSIMAE CRVCI 
 SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX.. 
 
 CONSECKAVIT. 
 
 E PRIORE SEDE AVVLSVM 
 
 ET CAESS. AVG. AC TIB. 
 
 I. E. ABLATUM M.D.LXXXVI. 
 
 On the four faces of the base below : 
 
 1. CHRIST VS VINCIT. 
 
 CHRISTVS REGNAT. 
 
 CHRIST VS IMPERAT. 
 
 CHRISTVS AB OMNI MALO 
 
 PLEBEM SVAM DEFENDAT. 
 
 2. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 OBELISCVM VATICANVM DIIS GENTIVM 
 
 IMPIO CVLTV DICATVM 
 
 AD APOSTOLORVM LIMINA 
 
 OPEROSO LAHORE TRANSTVLIT 
 
 AN. M.D.LXXXVI. PONT. II.
 
 120 DIARY OF , [ROME, 
 
 3. KCCE CRVX DOMINI 
 
 FVGITK PARTES 
 
 ADVERSAE 
 
 VINCIT LEO 
 
 DE TRIBV IVDA. 
 
 4. SEXTVS V. PONT. MAX. 
 
 CRVCI INVICTAE 
 
 OBELISCVM VATICANVM 
 
 AB IMPIA SVPERSTITIONE 
 
 EXPIATVM IVSTIVS 
 
 BT FELICIVS CONSECRAVIT 
 
 AN. M.D.L.XXXVI. PONT. II. 
 
 A little lower : 
 
 DOMINICVS FONTANA EX PAGO MILIAGRI NOVOCOMENSIS TRANSTYLIT 
 ET EREXIT.* 
 
 It is reported to have taken a year in erecting, to have 
 cost 37,975 crowns, the labour of 907 men, and 75 horses; 
 this being the first of the four Egyptian obelisks set up at 
 Rome, and one of the forty-two brought to the city out of 
 Egypt, set up in several places, but thrown down by the 
 Goths, Barbarians, and earthquakes, t Some coaches stood 
 before the steps of the ascent, whereof one, belonging to 
 Cardinal Medici, had all the metal work of massy silver, 
 viz. the bow behind and other places. The coaches at 
 Rome, as well as covered waggons also much in use, are 
 generally the richest and largest I ever saw. Before the 
 facciata of the church is an ample pavement. The church 
 was first begun by St. Anacletus, when rather a chapel, on 
 a foundation, as they give out, of Constantine the Great, 
 who, in honour of the Apostles, carried twelve baskets full 
 of sand to the work. After him, Julius II. took it in 
 hand, to which all his successors have contributed more 
 or less. 
 
 The front is supposed to be the largest and best-studied 
 piece of architecture in the world ; to this we went up by 
 four steps of marble. The first entrance is supported by 
 huge pilasters ; the volto within is the richest possible, and 
 overlaid with gold. Between the five large anti-ports are 
 
 * In 1589, this eminent architect published a folio volume, with engravings, 
 descriptive of the manner of removing and re-erecting this famous monument 
 of antiquity, entitled u Del modo tenuto nel trasportare 1'Obelisco Vaticano ;" 
 with his portrait in the title-page, holding a model of this column. 
 
 t See Platina in Vita Pontiff, p. 315.
 
 1C44.] JOHN EVELYN. 121 
 
 columns of enormous height and compass, with as many 
 gates of brass, the work and sculpture of Pollaivola, the 
 Florentine, full of cast figures and histories in a deep 
 relievo. Over this runs a terrace of like amplitude and 
 ornament, where the Pope, at solemn times, bestows his 
 Benediction on the vulgar. On each side of this portico, 
 are two campaniles, or towers, whereof there was but one 
 perfected, of admirable art. On the top of all, runs a 
 balustrade which edges it quite round, and upon this at 
 equal distances are Christ and the [twelve Disciples, of 
 gigantic size and stature, yet below showing no greater 
 than the life. Entering the church, admirable is the 
 breadth of the volto, or roof, which is all carved with 
 foliage and roses overlaid with gold in nature of a deep 
 basso-relievo, a I' antique. The nave, or body, is in form of 
 a cross, whereof the foot-part is the longest ; and, at the 
 internodium of the transept, rises the cupola, which being 
 all of stone and of prodigious height is more in compass 
 than that of the Pantheon (which was the largest amongst 
 the old Romans, and is yet entire) or any other known. 
 The inside, or concave, is covered with most exquisite 
 Mosaic, representing the Celestial Hierarchy, by Giuseppe 
 d'Arpino, full of stars of gold; the convex, or outside, 
 exposed to the air, is covered with lead, with great ribs of 
 metal double gilt (as are also the ten other lesser cupolas, 
 for no fewer adorn this glorious structure), which gives a 
 great and admirable splendour in all parts of the city. 
 On the summit of this is fixed a brazen globe gilt, capable 
 of receiving thirty-five persons. This I entered, and en- 
 graved my name amongst other travellers. Lastly, is the 
 cross, the access to which is between the leaden covering 
 and the stone convex, or arch- work ; a most truly astonish- 
 ing piece of art ! On the battlements of the church, also 
 all overlaid with lead and marble, you would imagine 
 yourself in a town, so many are the cupolas, pinnacles, 
 towers, juttings, and not a few houses inhabited by men 
 who dwell there, and have enough to do to look after the 
 vast reparations which continually employ them. 
 
 Having seen this, we descended into the body of the 
 church, full of collateral chapels and large oratories, most 
 of them exceeding the size of ordinary churches ; but the 
 principal are four incrusted with most precious marbles
 
 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 and stones of various colours, adorned with an infinity of 
 statues, pictures, stately altars, and innumerable relics. 
 The altar-piece of St. Michael being of Mosaic, I could 
 not pass without particular note, as one of the best of that 
 kind. The chapel of Gregory XIII., where he is buried, 
 is most splendid. Under the cupola, and in the centre of 
 the church, stands the high altar, consecrated first by 
 Clement VIII., adorned by Paul V., and lately covered 
 by Pope Urban VIII. ; with that stupendous canopy of 
 Corinthian brass, which heretofore was brought from the 
 Pantheon; it consists of four wreathed columns, partly 
 channelled and encircled with vines, on which hang little 
 puti, birds and bees (the arms of the Barberini), sustaining 
 a baldacchina, of the same metal. The four columns weigh 
 an hundred and ten thousand pounds, all over richly gilt ; 
 this, with the pedestals, crown, and statues about it, form 
 a thing of that art, vastness, and magnificence, as is beyond 
 all that man's industry has produced of the kind ; it is the 
 work of Bernini, a Florentine sculptor, architect, painter, 
 and poet, who, a little before my coming to the city, gave 
 a public opera (for so they call shows of that kind), wherein 
 he painted the scenes, cut the statues, invented the engines, 
 composed the music, writ the comedy, and built the 
 theatre. Opposite to either of these pillars, under those 
 niches which with their columns support the weighty 
 cupola, are placed four exquisite statues of Parian marble, 
 to which are four altars ; that of St. Veronica, made by 
 Fra. Mochi, has over it the reliquary, where they showed 
 us the miraculous Sudarium indued with the picture of 
 our Saviour's face, with this inscription : " Salvatoris 
 imaginem Veronicas Sudario exceptam ut loci majestas 
 decenter custodiret, Urbanus VIII. Pont. Max. Marmo- 
 reum signum et Altare addidit, Conditorium extruxit et 
 ornavit." 
 
 Right against this is that of Longinus, of a Colossean 
 magnitude, also by Bernini, and over him the conservatory 
 of the iron lance inserted in a most precious crystal, with 
 this epigraph : " Longini Lanceam quam Innocentius VIII. 
 a Bajazete Turcarum Tyranno accepit, Urbanus VIII. 
 statu& apposit^, et Sacello substructo, in exornatum Con- 
 ditorium transtulit." 
 
 The third chapel has over the altar the statue of our
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 123 
 
 countrywoman, St. Helena, the mother of Constantino the 
 Great; the work of Boggi, an excellent sculptor; and 
 here is preserved a great piece of the pretended wood of 
 the holy cross, which she 'is said to have first detected 
 miraculously in the Holy Land. It was placed here by 
 the late Pope with this inscription : " Partem Crucis quam 
 Helena Imperatrix e Calvario in Urbem adduxit, Urbanus 
 VIII. Pont. Max. e Sissoriana Basilica desumptam, addi- 
 tis ard et statua, hie in Vaticano collocavit." 
 
 The fourth hath over the altar, and opposite to that 
 of St. Veronica, the statue of St. Andrew, the work of 
 Fiamingo, admirable above all the other; above is pre- 
 served the head of that Apostle, richly enchased. It is 
 said that this excellent sculptor died mad to see his statue 
 placed in a disadvantageous light by Bernini, the chief 
 architect, who found himself outdone by this artist. The 
 inscription over it is this : 
 
 St. Andres caput quod Pius II. ex Achaia in Vaticanum asportan- 
 dum curavit, Urbanus VIII. novis hie ornamentis decoratum sacrisque 
 statuae ac Sacelli honoribus coli voluit. 
 
 The Relics showed and kept in this church are without 
 number, as are also the precious vessels of gold, silver, and 
 gems, with the vests and services to be seen in the Sacristy, 
 which they showed us. Under the high altar is an ample 
 grot inlaid with pietra-commessa, wherein half of the bodies 
 of St. Peter and St. Paul are preserved; before hang 
 divers great lamps of the richest plate, burning continually. 
 About this and contiguous to the altar, runs a balustrade, 
 in form of a theatre, of black marble. Towards the left, 
 as you go out of the church by the portico, a little beneath 
 the high altar, is an old brass statue of St. Peter sitting, 
 under the soles of whose feet many devout persons rub 
 their heads, and touch their chaplets. This was formerly 
 cast from a statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. In another 
 place, stands a column grated about with iron, whereon 
 they report that our Blessed Saviour was often wont to 
 lean as he preached in the Temple. In the work of the 
 reliquary under the cupola there are eight wreathed 
 columns brought from the Temple of Solomon. In 
 another chapel, they showed us the chair of St. Peter, or, 
 as they name it, the Apostolical Throne. But amongst
 
 124 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 all the chapels the one most glorious has for an altar-piece 
 a Madonna bearing a dead Christ on her knees, in white 
 marble, the work of Michael Angelo. At the upper end of 
 the Cathedral, are several stately monuments, especially 
 that of Urban VIII. Bound the cupola, and in many 
 other places in the church, are confession-seats for all lan- 
 gua'ges, Hebrew, Greek, Latin, Spanish, Italian, French, 
 English, Irish, Welsh, Sclavonian, Dutch, &c., as it is 
 written on their friezes in golden capitals, and there are 
 still at confessions some of all nations. Towards the 
 lower end of the church, and on the side of a vast pillar 
 sustaining a weighty roof, is the depositum and statue of 
 the Countess Matilda, a rare piece, with basso-relievos 
 about it of white marble, the work of Bernini. Here are 
 also those of Sextus IV. and Paulus III., &c. Amongst 
 the exquisite pieces in this sumptuous fabric is that of the 
 ship with St. Peter held up from sinking by our Saviour ; 
 the emblems about it are the Mosaic of the famous Giotto, 
 who restored and made it perfect after it had been defaced 
 by the Barbarians. Nor is the pavement under the cupola 
 to be passed over without observation, which with the rest 
 of the body and walls of the whole church, are all inlaid 
 with the richest of pietra-commessa, in the most splendid 
 colours of polished marbles, agates, serpentine, porphyry, 
 calcedon, &c., wholly incrusted to the very roof. Coming 
 out by the portico at which we entered, we were showed 
 the Porta Santa, never opened but at the year of jubilee. 
 This glorious foundation hath belonging to it thirty 
 canons, thirty-six beneficiates, twenty-eight clerks bene- 
 ficed, with innumerable chaplains, &c., a Cardinal being 
 always arch-priest ; the present Cardinal was Francisco 
 Barberini, who also styled himself Protector of the English, 
 to whom he was indeed very courteous. 
 
 20th. I went to visit that ancient See and Cathedral 
 of St. John di Laterano, and the holy places there- 
 about. This is a church of extraordinary devotion, though, 
 for outward form, not comparable to St. Peter's, being 
 of Gothic ordonnance. Before we went into the cathe- 
 dral, the Baptistery of St. John Baptist presented itself, 
 being formerly part of the Great Constantino's Palace, 
 and, as it is said, his chamber where by St. Silvester 
 he was made a Christian. It is of an octagonal shape,
 
 1644.J JOHN EVELYN. 125 
 
 having before the entrance eight fairpillars of rich porphyry, 
 each of one entire piece, their capitals of divers orders 
 supporting lesser columns of white marble, and these sup- 
 porting a noble cupola, the moulding whereof is excellently 
 wrought. In the chapel which they affirm to have been 
 the lodging place of this Emperor, all women are prohi- 
 bited from entering, for the malice of Herodias who 
 caused him to lose his head. Here are deposited several 
 sacred relics of St. James, Mary Magdalen, St. Matthew, 
 &c., and two goodly pictures. Another chapel, or oratory 
 near it, is called St. John the Evangelist, well adorned 
 with marbles and tables, especially those of Cavaliere 
 Giuseppe, and of Tempesta, in fresco. We went hence 
 into another called St. Venantius, in which is a tribunal 
 all of Mosaic in figures of Popes. Here is also an altar 
 of the Madonna, much visited, and divers Sclavonish 
 saints, companions of Pope John IV. The portico of the 
 church is built of materials brought from Pontius Pilate's 
 house in Jerusalem. 
 
 The next sight which attracted our attention, was a 
 wonderful concourse of people at their devotions before a 
 place called Scala Sancta, to which is built a noble front. 
 Entering the portico, we saw those large marble stairs, 
 twenty-eight in number, which are never ascended but on 
 the knees, some lip-devotion being used on every step ; on 
 which you may perceive divers red specks of blood under a 
 grate, which they affirm to have been drops of our Blessed 
 Saviour, at the time he was so barbarously misused by 
 Herod's soldiers ; for these stairs are reported to have been 
 translated hither from his Palace in Jerusalem. At the 
 top of them is a chapel, whereat they enter (but we could 
 not be permitted) by gates of marble, being the same our 
 Saviour passed when he went out of Herod's house. This 
 they name the Sanctum Sanctorum, and over it we read this 
 epigraph : 
 
 Non est in toto sanctior orbe locus. 
 
 Here, through a grate, we saw that picture of Christ 
 painted (as they say) by the hand of St. Luke, to the life. 
 Descending again, we saw before the church the obelisk, 
 which is indeed most worthy of admiration. It formerly 
 lay in the Circo Maximo, and was erected here by Sextus V., 
 in 1587, being 112 feet in height without the base or
 
 126 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 pedestal ; at the foot nine and a half one way and eight 
 the other. This pillar was first brought from Thebes at 
 the utmost confines of Egypt, to Alexandria, from thence 
 to Constantinople, thence to Rome, and is said by Ammi- 
 anus Marcellinus to have been dedicated to Rameses, King 
 of Egypt. It was transferred to this city by Constantine 
 the son of the Great, and is full of hieroglyphics, serpents, 
 men, owls, falcons, oxen, instruments, &c., containing (as 
 Father Kircher the Jesuit will shortly tell us in a book 
 which he is ready to publish) all the recondite and abstruse 
 learning of that people. The vessel, galley, or float, that 
 brought it to Rome so many hundred leagues must needs 
 have been of wonderful bigness and strange fabric. The 
 stone is one and entire, and [having been thrown down] 
 was erected by the famous Dom. Fontana for that magni- 
 ficent Pope, Sextus V., as the rest were ; it is now cracked 
 in many places, but solidly joined. The obelisk is thus 
 inscribed at the several facciatas : 
 
 Fl. Constantinus Augustus, Constantini August! F. Obeliscum a patre 
 suo motum diuq; Alexandria jacentem, trecentorum remigum impo- 
 situm navimirandsevastitatis per mare Tyberimq ; magnismolibusRomam 
 convectum in Circo Max. ponendura S.P.Q.R.D.D. 
 
 On the second square : 
 
 PI. Constantinus Max : Aug : Christians fidei Vindex & Assertor, 
 Obeliscum ab JEgyptio Rege impure voto Soli dicatum, sedibus avulsum 
 suis per Nilum transfer. Alexandriam, ut novam Romam ab se tune 
 conditam eo decoraret monumento. 
 
 On the third : 
 
 Sextus V. Pontifex Max : Obeliscum hunc specie eximia tempornm 
 calamitate f ractum, Circi Maximi minis humo, limoq ; alte demersum, 
 multa impensa extraxit, hunc in 'locum magno labore transtulit, 
 formaq ; pristina accurate vestitum, Cruci invictissimse dicavit anno 
 M.D.LXXXVIIL Pont. IIII. 
 
 On the fourth : 
 
 Constantinus per Crucem Victor a Silvestro hie Baptizatus Crucis 
 gloriam propagavit. 
 
 Leaving this wonderful monument, (before which is a 
 stately public fountain, with a statue of St. John in the 
 middle of it) we visited his Holiness's Palace, being a 
 little on the left hand, the design of Fontana, architect to 
 Sextus V. This I take to be one of the best Palaces in
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 12? 
 
 Borne ; but not staying, we entered the church of St. John 
 di Laterano, which is properly the Cathedral of the Roman 
 See, as I learned by these verses engraven upon the archi- 
 trave of the portico : 
 
 Dogmate Papali datnr, et simul Imperial! 
 
 Quod sim cunctarum mater caput Ecclesiaru 
 
 Hinc Salvatoris coelestia regna datoris 
 
 Nomine Sanxerunt, cum cuncta peracta fuerunt ; 
 
 Sic vos ex toto conversi supplice voto 
 
 Nostra quod haec sedes ; tibi Christe sit inclyta sedes. 
 
 It is called Lateran, from a noble family formerly dwell- 
 ing it seems hereabouts, on Mons Cselius. The church is 
 Gothic, and hath a stately tribunal ; the paintings are of 
 Pietro Pisano. It was the first church that was conse- 
 crated with the ceremonies now introduced, and where 
 altars of stone supplied those of wood heretofore in use, 
 and made like large chests for the easier removal in times 
 of persecution ; such an altar is still the great one here 
 preserved, as being that on which (they hold) St. Peter 
 celebrated mass at Rome ; for which reason none but the 
 Pope may now presume to make that use of it. The 
 pavement is of all sorts of precious marbles, and so are 
 the walls to a great height, over which it is painted a fresco 
 with the life and acts of Constantine the Great, by most 
 excellent masters. The organs are rare, supported by four 
 columns. The soffito is all richly gilded, and full of 
 pictures. Opposite to the porta is an altar of exquisite 
 architecture with a tabernacle on it all of precious stones, 
 the work of Targoni ; on this is a coena of plate, the in- 
 vention of Curtius Vanni, of exceeding value ; the tables 
 hanging over it are of Giuseppe d'Arpino. About this 
 are four excellent columns transported out of Asia by the 
 Emperor Titus, of brass double gilt, about twelve feet in 
 height ; the walls between them are incrusted with marble 
 and set with statues in niches, the vacuum reported to be 
 filled with holy earth, which St. Helena sent from Jeru- 
 salem to her son, Constantine, who set these pillars where 
 they now stand. At one side of this is an oratory full of 
 rare paintings and monuments, especially those* of the 
 great Connestabile Colonna. Out of this we came into 
 the Sacristia, full of good pictures of Albert and others. 
 At the end of the church is a flat stone supported by four
 
 128 DIARY OP [ROME, 
 
 pillars which they affirm to have been the exact height of 
 our Blessed Saviour, and say they never fitted any mortal 
 man that tried it, but he was either taller or shorter ; two 
 columns of the veil of the Temple which rent at his 
 passion ; the stone on which they threw lots for his seam- 
 less vesture; and the pillar on which the cock crowed, 
 after Peter's denial; and, to omit no fine thing, the just 
 length of the Virgin Mary's foot as it seems her shoemaker 
 affirmed ! Here is a sumptuous cross beset with precious 
 stones, containing some of the very wood of the holy 
 cross itself; with many other things of this sort : also 
 numerous most magnificent monuments, especially those 
 of St. Helena, of porphyry; Cardinal Farneze; Martin I., 
 of copper ; the pictures of Mary Magdalen, Martin V., 
 Laurentius Valla, &c., are of Gaetano; the Nunciata, 
 designed by M. Angelo ; and the great crucifix of Ser- 
 moneta. In a chapel at one end of the porch is a statue 
 of Henry IV. of France, in brass, standing in a dark hole, 
 and so has done many years ; perhaps from not believing 
 him a thorough proselyte. The two famous (Ecumenical 
 Councils were celebrated in this Church by Pope Simachus, 
 Martin I., Stephen, &c. 
 
 Leaving this venerable church, (for in truth it has a 
 certain majesty in it) we passed through a fair and large 
 hospital of good architecture, having some inscriptions 
 put up by Barberini, the late Pope's nephew. We then 
 went by St. Sylvia, where is a noble statue of St. Gre- 
 gory P., begun by M. Angelo ; a St. Andrew, and the 
 bath of St. Cecilia. In this church are some rare paint- 
 ings, especially that story on the wall of Guido Rheni. 
 Thence, to St. Giovanni e Paula, where the friars are 
 reputed to be great chymists. The choir, roof, and paint- 
 ings in the tribuna are excellent. 
 
 Descending the Mons Cselius, we came against the 
 vestiges of the Palazzo Maggiore, heretofore the Golden 
 House of Nero ; now nothing but a heap of vast and 
 confused ruins, to show what time and the vicissitude of 
 human things does change from the most glorious and 
 magnificent to the most deformed and confused. We next 
 went into St. Sebastian's Church, which has a handsome 
 front : then we passed by the place where Romulus and 
 Remus were taken up by Faustulus, the Forum Romanum,
 
 1C44.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 and so by the edge of the Mons Palatinus ; where we 
 saw the ruins of Pompey's house, and the Church of 
 St. Anacletus ; and so into the Circus Maximus, heretofore 
 capable of containing a hundred and sixty thousand 
 spectators, but now all one entire heap of rubbish, part of 
 it converted into a garden of pot-herbs. We concluded 
 this evening with hearing the rare voices and music at the 
 Chiesa Nova. 
 
 21st. I was carried to see a great virtuoso, Cavaliero 
 Pozzo, who showed us a rare collection of all kind of 
 antiquities, and a choice library, over which are the effigies 
 of most of our late men of polite literature. He had a 
 great collection of the antique basso-relievos about Rome, 
 which this curious man had caused to be designed in 
 several folios : many fine medals ; the stone which Pliny 
 calls Enhydros ; it had plainly in it the quantity of half 
 a spoonful of water, of a yellow pebble colour, of the 
 bigness of a walnut. A stone paler than an amethyst, 
 which yet he affirmed to be the true carbuncle, and harder 
 than a diamond; it was set in a ring, without foil, or 
 anything at the bottom, so as it was transparent, of 
 a greenish yellow, more lustrous than a diamond. He 
 had very pretty things painted on crimson velvet, designed 
 in black, and shaded and heightened with white, set in 
 frames ; also a number of choice designs and drawings. 
 
 Hence, we walked to the Suburra and ^Erarium Saturni, 
 where yet remain some ruins and an inscription. From 
 thence to St. Pietro in vinculis, one of the seven churches 
 on the Esquiline, an old and much-frequented place of 
 great devotion for the relics there, especially the bodies of 
 the seven Maccabean brethren, which lie under the altar. 
 On the wall is a St. Sebastian, of mosaic, after the Greek 
 manner: but what I chiefly regarded, was, that noble 
 sepulchre of Pope Julius II., the work of M. Angelo; with 
 that never-sufficiently-to-be-admired statue of Moses, in 
 white marble, and those of Vita Contemplativa and Activa, 
 by the same incomparable hand. To this church belongs 
 a monastery, in the court of whose cloisters grow two tall 
 and very stately palm-trees. Behind these, we walked a 
 turn amongst the Baths of Titus, admiring the strange 
 and prodigious receptacles for water, which the vulgar call 
 the Setti Sali, now all in heaps.
 
 130 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 22nd. Was the solemn and greatest ceremony of all 
 the State Ecclesiastical, viz., the procession of the Pope 
 (Innocent X.) to St. John di Laterano, which, standing 
 on the steps of Ara Celi, near the Capitol, I saw pass in 
 this manner: First went a guard of Switzers to make 
 way, and divers of the avant-guard of horse carrying 
 lances. Next followed those who carried the robes of the 
 Cardinals, two and two ; then the Cardinal's mace-bearers; 
 the caudatari, on mules ; the masters of their horse ; the 
 Pope's barber, tailor, baker, gardener, and other domestic 
 officers, all on horseback, in rich liveries ; the squires be- 
 longing to the Guard; five men in rich liveries led five 
 noble Neapolitan horses, white as snow, covered to the 
 ground, with trappings richly embroidered ; which is a 
 service paid by the King of Spain for the kingdoms of 
 Naples and Sicily, pretended feudatories to the Pope ; 
 three mules of exquisite beauty and price, trapped in 
 crimson velvet ; next followed three rich litters with 
 mules, the litters empty ; the master of the horse alone, 
 with his squires ; five trumpeters ; the armerieri estra 
 muros ; the fiscal and consistorial advocates ; capellani, 
 camerieri de honore, cubiculari and chamberlains, called 
 secreti. 
 
 Then followed four other camerieri, with four caps 
 of the dignity-pontifical, which were Cardinals' hats car- 
 ried on staves ; four trumpets ; after them, a number of 
 noble Romans and gentlemen of quality, very rich, and 
 followed by innumerable staffieri and pages ; the secreta- 
 ries of the chancellaria, abbreviatori-accoliti in their long 
 robes, and on mules ; auditori di rota ; the dean of the 
 roti and master of the sacred palace, on mules, with grave, 
 but rich foot-clothes, and in flat episcopal hats ; then went 
 more of the Roman and other nobility and courtiers, with 
 divers pages in most rich liveries on horseback ; fourteen 
 drums belonging to the Capitol ; the marshals with their 
 staves ; the two syndics ; the conservators of the city, in 
 robes of crimson damask; the knight-confalionier and 
 prior of the R. R., in velvet toques ; six of his Holiness's 
 mace-bearers ; then the captain, or governor, of the Castle 
 of St. Angelo, upon a brave prancer ; the governor of the 
 city ; on both sides of these two long ranks of Switzers ; 
 the masters of the ceremonies ; the cross-bearer on horse-
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 back, with two priests at each, hand on foot ; pages, foot- 
 men, and guards, in abundance. Then came the Pope 
 himself, carried in a litter, or rather open chair, of crimson 
 velvet, richly embroidered, and borne by two stately 
 mules ; as he went, he held up two fingers, blessing the 
 multitude who were on their knees, or looking out of their 
 windows and houses, with loud vivas and acclamations of 
 felicity to their new Prince. This chair was followed by 
 the master of his chamber, cup-bearer, secretary, and phy- 
 sician ; then came the Cardinal-Bishops, Cardinal- Priests, 
 Cardinal-Deacons, Patriarchs, Archbishops, and Bishops, 
 all in their several and distinct habits, some in red, others 
 in green flat hats with tassels, all on gallant mules richly- 
 trapped with velvet, and led by their servants in great 
 state and multitudes ; after them, the apostolical protono- 
 tari, auditor, treasurer, and referendaries ; lastly, the 
 trumpets of the rear-guard, two pages of arms in helmets 
 with feathers and carrying lances ; two captains ; the pon- 
 tifical standard of the Church ; the two alfieri, or cornets, 
 of the Pope's light horse, who all followed in armour and 
 carrying lances; which, with innumerable rich coaches, 
 litters, and people, made up the procession. What they 
 did at St. John di Laterano, I could not see, by reason of 
 the prodigious crowd ; so I spent most of the day in view- 
 ing the two triumphal arches which had been purposely 
 erected a few days before, and till now covered ; the one 
 by the Duke of Parma, in the Foro Romano, the other by 
 the Jews in the Capitol, with nattering inscriptions. They 
 were of excellent architecture, decorated with statues and 
 abundance of ornaments proper for the occasion, since they 
 were but temporary, and made up of boards, cloth, &c., 
 painted and framed on the sudden, but as to outward 
 appearance solid and very stately. The night ended with 
 fire-works. What I saw was that which was built before 
 the Spanish Ambassador's house, in the Piazza del Trinita, 
 and another, before that of the French. The first ap- 
 peared to be a mighty rock, bearing the Pope's Arms, 
 a dragon, and divers figures, which being set on fire by 
 one who flung a rocket at it, kindled immediately, yet 
 preserving the figure both of the rock and statues a very 
 long time ; insomuch as it was deemed ten thousand 
 reports of squibs and crackers spent themselves in order. 
 
 K2
 
 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 That before the French Ambassador's Palace was a Diana 
 drawn in a chariot by her dogs, with abundance of other 
 figures as large as the life, which played with fire in the 
 same manner. In the mean time, the windows of the 
 whole city were set with tapers put into lanterns, or 
 sconces, of several coloured oiled paper, that the wind 
 might not annoy them; this rendered a most glorious 
 show. Besides these, there were at least twenty other 
 fire-works of vast charge and rare art for their invention 
 before divers Ambassadors, Princes, and Cardinals' Palaces, 
 especially that on the castle of St. Angelo, being a pyramid 
 of lights, of great height, fastened to the ropes and cables 
 which support the standard-pole. The streets were this 
 night as light as day, full of bonfires, cannon roaring, 
 music playing, fountains running wine, in all excess of joy 
 and triumph. 
 
 23rd. I went to the Jesuits' College again, the front 
 whereof gives place to few for its architecture, most of 
 its ornaments being of rich marble. It has within a 
 noble portico and court, sustained by stately columns, as 
 is the corridor over the portico, at the sides of which are 
 the schools for arts and sciences, which are here taught 
 as at the University. Here I heard Father Athanasius 
 Kircher upon a part of Euclid, which he expounded. To 
 this joins a glorious and ample church for the students ; 
 a second is not fully finished ; and there are two noble 
 libraries, where I was showed that famous wit and histo- 
 rian, Famianus Strada. Hence, we went to the house 
 of Hippolito Vitellesco, (afterwards bibliothecary of the 
 Vatican library,) who showed us one of the best collections 
 of statues in Rome, to which he frequently talks as if 
 they were living, pronouncing now and then orations, 
 sentences, and verses, sometimes kissing and embracing 
 them. He has a head of Brutus scarred in the face by 
 order of the Senate for killing Julius; this is much 
 esteemed. Also a Minerva, and others of great value. 
 This gentleman not long since purchased land in the 
 kingdom of Naples, in hope, by digging the ground, to 
 find more statues; which it seems so far succeeded, as 
 to be much more worth than the purchase. We spent 
 the evening at the Chiesa Nova, where was excellent 
 music; but, before that began, the courteous fathers led
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 133 
 
 me into a nobly furnished library, contiguous to their most 
 beautiful convent. 
 
 28th. I went to see the garden and house of the Aldo- 
 brandini, now Cardinal Borghese's. This Palace is, for 
 architecture, magnificence, pomp, and state, one of the 
 most considerable about the city. It has four fronts, and 
 a noble piazza before it. Within the courts, under arches 
 supported by marble columns, are many excellent statues. 
 Ascending the stairs, there is a rare figure of Diana, of 
 white marble. The St. Sebastian and Hermaphrodite 
 are of stupendous art. For paintings, Our Saviour's Head, 
 by Coreggio ; several pieces of Raphael, some of which are 
 small; some of Bassano Veronese; the Leda, and two 
 admirable Venuses, are of Titian's pencil; so is the Psyche 
 and Cupid ; the Head of St. John, borne by Herodias ; two 
 heads of Albert Durer, very exquisite. We were shown 
 here a fine cabinet and tables of Florence-work in stone. 
 In the gardens are many fine fountains, the walls covered 
 with citron-trees, which, being rarely spread, invest the 
 stone-work entirely; and, towards the street, at a back- 
 gate, the port is so handsomely clothed with ivy as much 
 pleased me. About this palace are many noble antique 
 bassi-relievi : two especially are placed on the ground, 
 representing armour, and other military furniture of the Ro- 
 mans; beside these, stand about the garden numerous rare 
 statues, altars, and urns. Above all, for antiquity and 
 curiosity (as being the only rarity of that nature now 
 known to remain) is that piece of old Roman painting 
 representing the Roman Sponsalia, or celebration of their 
 marriage, judged to be 1400 years old, yet are the colours 
 very lively and the design very entire, though found 
 deep in the ground. For this morsel of painting's sake 
 only, it is said the Borghesi purchased the house, be- 
 cause this being on a wall in a kind of banqueting- 
 house in the garden, could not be removed, but passes with 
 the inheritance. 
 
 29th. I a second time visited the Medicean Palace, 
 being near my lodging, the more exactly to have a view 
 of the noble collections that adorn it, especially the bassi- 
 relievi and antique friezes inserted about the stone-work 
 of the house. The Saturn, of metal, standing in the por- 
 tico, is a rare piece ; so is the Jupiter and Apollo, in the
 
 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 hall. We were now led into those rooms above we could 
 not see before, full of incomparable statues and antiquities; 
 above all, and haply preferable to any in the world, are 
 the Two Wrestlers, for the inextricable mixture with each 
 others' arms and legs is stupendous. In the great chamber 
 is the Gladiator, whetting a knife ; but the Venus is with- 
 out parallel, being the master-piece of one whose name 
 you see graven under it in old Greek characters ; nothing 
 in sculpture ever approached this miracle of art. To this 
 add Marcius, Ganymede, a little Apollo playing on a pipe; 
 some relievi incrusted on the palace-walls ; and an antique 
 vasa of marble, near six feet high. Among the pictures 
 may be mentioned the Magdalen and St. Peter, weeping. 
 I pass over the cabinets and tables of pietra commessa, 
 being the proper invention of the Florentines. In one of 
 the chambers is a whimsical chair, which folded into so 
 many varieties, as to turn into a bed, a bolster, a table, or 
 a couch. I had another walk in the garden, where are 
 two huge vasas, or baths of stone. 
 
 I went farther up the hill to the Pope's Palaces at 
 Monte Cavallo, where I now saw the garden more exactly, 
 and found it to be one of the most magnificent and plea- 
 sant in Rome. I am told the gardener is annually allowed 
 2000 scudi for the keeping of it. Here I observed hedges 
 of myrtle above a man's height ; others of laurel, oranges, 
 nay, of ivy and juniper; the close walks, and rustic grotto; 
 a cryptall, of which the laver, or basin, is of one vast, 
 entire, antique porphyry, and below this flows a plentiful 
 cascade; the steps of the grotto and the roofs being of rich 
 mosaic. Here are hydraulic organs, a fish-pond, and an 
 ample bath. From hence, we went to taste some rare 
 Greco ; and so home. 
 
 Being now pretty weary of continual walking, I kept 
 within, for the most part, till the 6th December; and, 
 during this time, I entertained one Signor Alessandro, 
 who gave me some lessons on the theorbo. 
 
 The next excursion was over the Tiber, which I crossed 
 in a ferry-boat, to see the Palazzo di Ghisi, standing 
 in Transtevere, fairly built, but famous only for the paint- 
 ing a fresco on the volto of the portico towards the garden; 
 the story is the Amours of Cupid and Psyche, by the 
 hand of the celebrated Raphael d'Urbino. Here you
 
 1644.] JOHN EVELYN. 135 
 
 always see painters designing and copying after it, being 
 esteemed one of the rarest pieces of that art in the world ; 
 and with great reason. I must not omit that incomparable 
 table of Galatea (as I remember), so carefully preserved in 
 the cupboard at one of the ends of this walk, to protect it 
 from the air, being a most lively painting. There are 
 likewise excellent things of Baldassare, and others. 
 
 Thence we went to the noble house of the Duke of 
 Bracciano, fairly built, with a stately court and fountain. 
 
 Next, we walked to St. Mary's Church, where was the 
 Taberna Meritoria, where the old Roman soldiers received 
 their triumphal garland, which they ever after wore. The 
 high altar is very fair, adorned with columns of porphyry : 
 here is also some mosaic work about the choir, and the 
 Assumption is an esteemed piece. It is said that this 
 church was the first that was dedicated to the Virgin at 
 Rome. In the opposite piazza is a very sumptuous 
 fountain. 
 
 12th December. I went again to St. Peter's, to see the 
 chapels, churches, and grots under the whole church (like 
 our St. Faith's under Paul's), in which lie interred a multi- 
 tude of Saints, Martyrs, and Popes; amongst them our 
 countryman, Adrian IV., (Nicholas Brekespere) in a chest 
 of porphyry; St. J. Chrysostom ; Petronella; the heads of 
 St. James Minor, St. Luke, St. Sebastian, and our Thomas 
 & Becket; a shoulder of St. Christopher; an arm of 
 Joseph of Arimathea; Longinus; besides 134 more 
 Bishops, Soldiers, Princes, Scholars, Cardinals, Kings, 
 Emperors, their wives ; too long to particularize. 
 
 Hence we walked into the cemetery, called Campo 
 Santo, the earth consisting of several ship-loads of mould, 
 transported from Jerusalem, which consumes a carcase in 
 twenty-four hours. To this joins that rare hospital, where 
 once was Nero's Circus ; the next to this is the Inquisition- 
 house and prison, the inside whereof, I thank God, I was 
 not curious to see. To this joins his Holiness's Horse- 
 guards. 
 
 On Christmas-eve, I went not to bed, being desirous of 
 seeing the many extraordinary ceremonies performed then 
 in their churches, as midnight masses and sermons. I 
 walked from church to church the whole night in admira- 
 tion at the multitude of scenes and pageantry which the
 
 136 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 friars had with much industry and craft set out, to catch 
 the devout women and superstitious sort of people, who 
 never parted without dropping some money into a vessel 
 set on purpose ; but especially observable was the puppetry 
 in the Church of the Minerva, representing the Nativity. 
 I thence went and heard a sermon at the Apollinare ; by 
 which time it was morning. On Christmas-day, his Holi- 
 ness sang mass, the artillery at St. Angelo went off, and 
 all this day was exposed the cradle of our Lord. 
 
 29th. We were invited by the English Jesuits to dinner, 
 being their great feast of Thomas [a Becket] of Canter- 
 bury. We dined in their common refectory, and after- 
 wards saw an Italian comedy acted by their alumni before 
 the Cardinals. 
 
 1645. January. We saw pass the new officers of the 
 people of Rome ; especially, for their noble habits were 
 most conspicuous, the three Consuls, now called Conserva- 
 tors, who take their places in the Capitol, having been 
 sworn the day before between the hands of the Pope. We 
 ended the day with the rare music at the Chiesa Nova. 
 
 6th. Was the ceremony of our Saviour's baptism in 
 the Church of St. Athanasius, and at Ara Cell was 
 a great procession, del Bambino, as they call it, where 
 were all the magistrates, and a wonderful concourse of 
 people. 
 
 7th. A sermon was preached to the Jews, at Ponte Sisto, 
 who are constrained to sit till the hour is done ; but it is 
 with so much malice in their countenances, spitting, hum- 
 ming, coughing, and motion, that it is almost impossible 
 they should hear a word from the preacher. A conversion 
 is very rare. 
 
 14th. The heads of St. Peter and St. Paul are exposed 
 at St. John Laterano. 
 
 15th. The zitelle, or young wenches, which are to have 
 portions given them by the Pope, being poor, and to marry 
 them, walked in procession to St. Peter's, where the 
 Veronica was showed. 
 
 I went to the Ghetto, where the Jews dwell as in a 
 suburb by themselves; being invited by a Jew of my 
 acquaintance to see a circumcision. I passed by the 
 Piazza Judea, where their seraglio begins; for, being 
 environed with walls, they are locked up every night. In
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 137 
 
 this place remains yet part of a stately fabric, which my 
 Jew told me had been a palace of theirs for the ambassador 
 of their nation, when their country was subject to the 
 Romans. Being led through the Synagogue into a pri- 
 vate house, I found a world of people in a chamber : by 
 and bye came an old man, who prepared and laid in order 
 divers instruments brought by a little child of about seven 
 years old in a box. These the man laid in a silver basin ; 
 the knife was much like a short razor to shut into the 
 haft. Then they burnt some incense in a censer, which 
 perfumed the room all the while the ceremony was per- 
 forming. In the basin was a little cap made of white 
 paper like a capuchin's hood, not bigger than the finger ; 
 also a paper of a red astringent powder, I suppose of bole; 
 a small instrument of silver, cleft in the middle at one end 
 to take up the prepuce withal ; a fine linen cloth wrapped 
 up. These being all in order, the women brought the 
 infant swaddled, out of another chamber, and delivered it 
 to the Rabbi, who carried and presented it before an altar, 
 or cupboard, dressed up, on which lay the five Books of 
 Moses, and the Commandments, a little unrolled. Before 
 this, with profound reverence, and mumbling a few words, 
 he waved the child to and fro awhile ; then he delivered it 
 to another Rabbi, who sate all this time upon a table. 
 Whilst the ceremony was performing, all the company fell 
 singing a Hebrew hymn, in a barbarous tone, waving 
 themselves to and fro; a ceremony they observe in all 
 their devotions. The Jews in Rome all wear yellow hats, 
 live only upon brokage and usury, very poor and despicable, 
 beyond what they are in other territories of Princes where 
 they are permitted. 
 
 18th. I went to see the Pope's Palace, the Vatican, 
 where he for the most part keeps his Court. It was 
 first built by Pope Simachus, and since augmented to a 
 vast pile of building by his successors. That part of it 
 added by Sextus V. is most magnificent. This leads us 
 into divers terraces arched sub dio, painted by Raphael 
 with the Histories of the Bible, so esteemed, that artists 
 come from all parts of Europe to make their studies from 
 these designs. The foliage and grotesque about some of 
 the compartments are admirable.* In another room are 
 
 * Painted by John of Udine, scholar of Raphael, from the designs of 
 Raphael. Painter's Voyage of Italy, p. 17.
 
 138 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 represented at large, maps and plots of most countries in 
 the world, in vast tables, with brief descriptions. The 
 stairs which ascend out of St. Peter's portico into the first 
 hall, are rarely contrived for ease ; these lead into the hall of 
 Gregory XIII., the walls whereof, half way to the roof, are 
 incrusted with most precious marbles of various colours 
 and works. So is also the pavement inlaid work ; but 
 what exceeds description is, the volta, or roof itself, which 
 is so exquisitely painted, that it is almost impossible for the 
 skilfullest eye to discern whether it be the work of the 
 pencil upon a flat, or of a tool cut deep in stone.' The 
 B/ota dentata, in this admirable perspective, on the left 
 hand as one goes out, the Stella, &c., are things of art 
 incomparable. Certainly this is one of the most superb 
 and royal apartments in the world, much too beautiful for 
 a guard of gigantic Switzers, who do nothing but drink 
 and play at cards in it. Going up these stairs is a 
 painting of St. Peter, walking on the sea towards our 
 Saviour. 
 
 Out of this I went into another hall, just before the 
 chapel, called the Sala del Conclave, full of admirable 
 paintings ; amongst others, is the Assassination of Coligni, 
 the great [Protestant] French Admiral, murdered by the 
 Duke of Guise, in the Parisian massacre at the nuptials of 
 Henry IV. with Queen Margaret; under it is written, 
 "Coligni et sociorum csedes:" on the other side, "Rex 
 Coligi necem probat." 
 
 There is another very large picture, under which is 
 inscribed : 
 
 "Alexander Papa III., Frederic! Primi Imperatoris iram et impetum 
 fugiens, abdidit se Venetijs ; cognitum et a senatu perhonorifice suscep- 
 tum, Othone Imperatoris filio navali pralio victo captoq ; Fredericus, 
 pace facta, supplex adorat ; fidem et obedientiaiu pollicitus. Ita Pon- 
 tifici sua dignitas Venet. Reip. beneficio restituta JICLXXVIII."* 
 
 This inscription I the rather took notice of, because 
 Urban VIII. had caused it to be blotted out during the 
 difference between him and that State; but it was now 
 
 * " Pope Alexander III., flying from the wrath and violence of the Emperor 
 Frederick I., took shelter at Venice, where he was acknowledged, and most 
 honourably received by the Senate. The Emperor's son, Otho, being con- 
 quered and taken in a naval battle, the Emperor, having made peace, became 
 a suppliant to the Pope, promising fealty and obedience. Thus his dignity 
 was restored to the Pontiff, by the aid of the Republic of Venice, MCLXXYIII."
 
 IC45.] JOHN EVELYN. 139 
 
 restored and refreshed by his successor, to the great 
 honour of the Venetians. The battle of Lepanto is another 
 fair piece here. 
 
 Now we came into the Pope's chapel, so much cele- 
 brated for the Last Judgment painted by M. Angelo 
 Buonarotti. It is a painting in fresco, upon a dead wall 
 at the upper end of the chapel, just over the high altar, of 
 a vast design and miraculous fancy, considering the multi- 
 tude of naked figures and variety of posture. The roof 
 also is full of rare work. Hence, we went into the sacristia, 
 where were showed all the most precious vestments, copes, 
 and furniture of the chapel. One priestly cope, with the 
 whole suite, had been sent from one of our English Henrys, 
 and is shown for a great rarity. There were divers of the 
 Pope's pantoufles that are kissed on his foot, having rich 
 jewels embroidered on the instep, covered with crimson 
 velvet; also his tiara, or triple crown, divers mitres, 
 crosiers, &c., all bestudded with precious stones, gold, and 
 pearl, to a very great value ; a very large cross, carved (as 
 they affirm) out of the holy wood itself; numerous uten- 
 sils of crj'stal, gold, agate, amber, and other costly materials 
 for the altar. 
 
 We then went into those chambers painted with the 
 Histories of the burning of Rome, quenched by the pro- 
 cession of a Crucifix ; the victory of Constantine over 
 Maxentius ; St. Peter's delivery out of Prison ; all by 
 Julio Romano,* and are therefore called the Painters' 
 Academy, because you always find some young men or 
 other designing from them ; a civility which is not refused 
 in Italy, where any rare pieces of the old and best masters 
 are extant, and which is the occasion of breeding up many 
 excellent men in that profession. 
 
 The Sala Clementina's Suffito is painted by Cherubin 
 Alberti, with an ample landscape of Paul Bril's. 
 
 We were then conducted into a new gallery, whose sides 
 were painted with views of the most famous places, towns, 
 and territories in Italy, rarely done, and upon the roof 
 the chief Acts of the Roman Church since St. Peter's pre- 
 tended See there. It is doubtless one of the most magni- 
 ficent galleries in Europe. Out of this we came into the 
 Consistory, a noble room, the volto painted in grotesque, 
 
 * A famous scholar of Raphael.
 
 140 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 as I remember. At the upper end, is an elevated throne 
 and a baldacchino, or canopy of state, for his Holiness, 
 over it. 
 
 From thence, through a very long gallery (longer, I 
 think, than the French Kings at the Louvre), but only of 
 bare walls, we were brought into the Vatican Library. 
 This passage was now full of poor people, to each of 
 whom, in his passage to St. Peter's, the Pope gave a mezzo 
 grosse. I believe they were in number near 1500 or 2000 
 persons. 
 
 This library is the most nobly built, furnished, and 
 beautified of any in the world ; ample, stately, light, and 
 cheerful, looking into a most pleasant garden. The walls 
 and roof are painted, not with antiques and grotesques, 
 like our Bodleian at Oxford, but emblems, figures, dia- 
 grams, and the like learned inventions, found out by the 
 wit and industry of famous men, of which there are now 
 whole volumes extant. There were likewise the effigies of 
 the most illustrious men of letters and fathers of the 
 church, with divers noble statues, in white marble, at the 
 entrance, viz., Hippolytus and Aristides. The General 
 Councils are painted on the side-walls. As to the ranging 
 of the books, they are all shut up in presses of wainscot, 
 and not exposed on shelves to the open air, nor are the 
 most precious mixed amongst the more ordinary, which are 
 showed to the curious only ; such are those two Virgils 
 written on parchment, of more than a thousand years old ; 
 the like, a Terence; the Acts of the Apostles in golden 
 capital letters ; Petrarch's Epigrams, written with his own 
 hand ; also a Hebrew parchment, made up in the ancient 
 manner, from whence they were first called Volumina, with 
 the Cornua; but what we English do much inquire after, 
 the book which our Henry VIII. writ against Luther.* 
 
 The largest room is 100 paces long; at the end is the 
 gallery of printed books ; then the gallery of the Duke of 
 Urban's library, in which are MSS. of remarkable minia- 
 
 * This very book, by one of those curious chances that occasionally happen, 
 has recently been brought to England, where the Editor has seen it ; and, 
 what is very remarkable, wherever the title of Defender of the Faith is sub- 
 joined to the name of Henry, the Pope has drawn his pen through the title. 
 The name of the King occurs in his own hand-writing both at the beginning 
 and end ; and, on the binding, are the Royal Arms. The present possessor 
 purchased it in Italy for a few shillings from an old book-stall.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 ture, and divers China, Mexican, Samaritan, Abyssinian, 
 and other oriental books. 
 
 In another wing of the edifice, 200 paces long, were all 
 the books taken from Heidelberg, of which the learned 
 Gruter, and other great scholars, had been keepers. These 
 walls and volto are painted with representations of the 
 machines invented by Domenico Fontana for erection of 
 the obelisks ; and the true design of Mahomet's sepulchre, 
 at Mecca. 
 
 Out of this we went to see the Conclave, where, during 
 a vacancy, the Cardinals are shut up till they are agreed 
 upon a new election ; the whole manner whereof was 
 described to us. 
 
 Hence we went into the Pope's Armoury, under the 
 Library. Over the door is this inscription : 
 
 TTRBANUS VIII. LITTERIS ARMA, ARMA LITTERIS. 
 
 I hardly believe any Prince in Europe is able to show a 
 more completely furnished library of Mars, for the quality 
 and quantity, which is 40,000 complete for horse and foot, 
 and neatly kept. Out of this we passed again by the long 
 gallery, and at the lower end of it down a very large pair 
 of stairs, round, without any steps as usually, but descend- 
 ing with an evenness so ample and easy, that a horse-litter, 
 or coach, may with ease be drawn up ; the sides of the 
 vacuity are set with columns : those at Amboise, on the 
 Loire, in France, are something of this invention, but 
 nothing so spruce. By these, we descended into the 
 Vatican gardens, called Belvedere, where entering first 
 into a kind of court, we were showed those incomparable 
 statues (so famed by Pliny and others) of Laocoon with 
 his three sons embraced by a huge serpent, all of one 
 entire Parian stone, very white and perfect, somewhat 
 bigger than the life, the work of those three celebrated 
 sculptors, Agesandrus, Polydorus, and Artemidorus, Rho- 
 dians ; it was found amongst the ruins of Titus's Baths, 
 and placed here. Pliny says this statue is to be esteemed 
 before all pictures and statues in the world ; and I am of 
 his opinion, for I never beheld anything of art approach it. 
 Here are also those two famous images of Nilus with the 
 Children playing about him, and that of Tyber ; Romulus 
 and Remus with the "Wolf; the dying Cleopatra; the
 
 142 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 Venus and Cupid, rare pieces; the Mercury; Cybel; 
 Hercules ; Apollo ; Antinolis : most of which are, for 
 defence against the weather, shut up in niches with wainscot 
 doors. We were likewise showed the relics of the Hadrian 
 Moles, viz. the Pine, a vast piece of metal which stood on 
 the summit of that mausoleum ; also a peacock of copper, 
 supposed to have been part of Scipio's monument. 
 
 In the garden without this (which contains a vast circuit 
 of ground) are many stately fountains, especially two 
 casting water into antique lavers, brought from Titus's 
 Baths; some fair grots and water-works, that noble cascade 
 where the ship dances, with divers other pleasant inven- 
 tions, walks, terraces, meanders, fruit-trees, and a most 
 goodly prospect over the greatest part of the city. One 
 fountain under the gate I must not omit, consisting of 
 three jettos of water gushing out of the mouths or probosces 
 of bees (the arms of the late Pope), because of the 
 inscription : 
 
 Quid miraris Apem, quse mel de floribus haurit ? 
 Si tibi mellitam gutture fundit aquam. 
 
 23rd. We went without the walls of the city to visit 
 St. Paul's, to which place it is said the Apostle bore his own 
 head after Nero had caused it to be cut off. The church 
 was founded by the Great Constantine ; the main roof is 
 supported by 100 vast columns of marble, and the mosaic 
 work of the great arch is wrought with a very ancient 
 story A 440 ; as is likewise that of the facciata. The gates 
 are brass, made at Constantinople in 1070, as you may 
 read by those Greek verses engraven on them. The church is 
 near 500 feet long and 258 in breadth, and has five great 
 aisles joined to it, on the basis of one of whose columns is 
 this odd title : " PI. Eugenius Asellus C. C. Prsef. Urbis 
 V. S.I. reparavit." Here they showed us that miraculous 
 Crucifix which they say spake to St. Bridget : and, just 
 before the Ciborio, stand two excellent statues. Here are 
 buried part of the bodies of St. Paul and St. Peter. The 
 pavement is richly interwoven with precious oriental 
 marbles about the high altar, where are also four excel- 
 lent paintings, whereof one, representing the stoning of 
 St. Stephen, is by the hand of a Bolognian lady, named 
 Lavinia. The tabernacle on this altar is of excellent
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 143 
 
 architecture, and the pictures in the Chapel del Sacramento 
 are of Lanfranco. Divers other relics there be also in this 
 venerable church, as a part of St. Anna ; the head of the 
 Woman of Samaria ; the chain which bound St. Paul, and 
 the Eculeus used in tormenting the primitive Christians. 
 The church stands in the Via Ositensis, about a mile from 
 the walls of the city, separated from any buildings near it 
 except the Trie Fontana, to which (leaving our coach) we 
 walked, going over the mountain or little rising, upon 
 which story says a hundred seventy and four thousand 
 Christians had been martyred by Maximianus, Dioclesian, 
 and other bloody tyrants. On this stand St. Vincent's 
 and St. Anastasius; likewise the Church of St. Maria 
 Scala del Cielo, in whose Tribuna is a very fair mosaic 
 work. The Church of the Trie Fontana (as they are 
 called) is perfectly well built, though but small (whereas 
 that of St. Paul is but Gothic), having a noble cupola in 
 the middle ; in this they show the pillar to which St. Paul 
 was bound, when his head was cut off, and from whence 
 it made three prodigious leaps, where there immediately 
 broke out the three remaining fountains, which give 
 denomination to this church. The waters are reported to 
 be medicinal ; over each is erected an altar and a chained 
 ladle, for better tasting of the waters. That most excellent 
 picture of St. Peter's Crucifixion is of Guido. 
 
 25th. I went again to the Palazzo Farnese, to see some 
 certain statues and antiquities which, by reason of the 
 Major-Domo not being within, I could not formerly obtain. 
 In the hall stands that triumphant Colosse of one of the 
 family, upon three figures, a modern, but rare piece. About 
 it stood some Gladiators ; and, at the entrance into one of 
 the first chambers, are two cumbent figures of Age and 
 Youth, brought hither from St. Peter's, to make room for 
 the Longinus under the cupola. Here was the statue of a 
 ram running at a man on horseback, a most incomparable 
 expression of Fury, cut in stone ; and a table of pietra- 
 commessa, very curious. The next chamber was all painted 
 a fresco, by a rare hand, as was the carving in wood of the 
 ceiling, which, as I remember, was in cedar, as the Italian 
 mode is, and not poor plaster, as ours are ; some of them 
 most richly gilt. In a third room, stood the famous 
 Venus, and the child Hercules strangling a serpent, of
 
 144 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 Corinthian brass, antique, on a very curious basso-relievo ; 
 the sacrifice to Priapus ; the Egyptian Isis, in the hard black 
 ophite stone, taken out of the Pantheon, greatly celebrated 
 by the antiquaries : likewise two tables of brass, containing 
 divers old Roman laws. At another side of this chamber, 
 was the statue of a wounded Amazon falling from her 
 horse, worthy the name of the excellent sculptor, whoever 
 the artist was. Near this was a bass-relievo of a Baccha- 
 nalia, with a most curious Silenus. The fourth room was 
 totally environed with statues ; especially observable was 
 that so renowned piece of a Venus looking backward over 
 her shoulder, and divers other naked figures, by the old 
 Greek masters. Over the doors are two Venuses, one of 
 them looking on her face in a glass, by M. Angelo ; the 
 other is painted by Caracci. I never saw finer faces, 
 especially that under the mask, whose beauty and art are 
 not to be described by words. The next chamber is also 
 full of statues ; most of them the heads of Philosophers, 
 very antique. One of the Csesars and another of Hannibal 
 cost 1200 crowns. Now I had a second view of that never- 
 to-be- sufficiently-admired gallery, painted in deep relievo, 
 the work of ten years' study, for a trifling reward. In the 
 wardrobe above they showed us fine wrought plate, porce- 
 lain, mazers of beaten and solid gold, set with diamonds, 
 rubies, and emeralds ; a treasure, especially the workman- 
 ship considered, of inestimable value. This is all the Duke 
 of Parma's. Nothing seemed to be more curious and rare 
 in its kind than the complete service of the purest crystal, 
 for the altar of the chapel, the very bell, cover of a book, 
 sprinkler, &c., were all of the rock, incomparably sculptured, 
 with the holy story in deep Levati ; thus was also wrought 
 the crucifix, chalice, vases, flower-pots, the largest and 
 purest crystal that my eyes ever beheld. Truly I looked 
 on this as one of the greatest curiosities I had seen in 
 Rome. In another part, were presses furnished, with 
 antique arms, German clocks, perpetual motions, watches, 
 and curiosities of Indian works. A very ancient picture 
 of Pope Eugenius ; a St. Bernard ; and a head of marble 
 found long since, supposed to be a true portrait of our 
 Blessed Saviour's face. 
 
 Hence, we went to see Dr. Gibbs, a famous poet and 
 countryman of ours, who had some intendency in an
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 Hospital built on the Via Triumphalis, called Christ's 
 Hospital, which he showed us. The Infirmatory, where 
 the sick lay, was paved with various coloured marbles, and 
 the walls hung with noble pieces ; the beds are very fair ; 
 in the middle is a stately cupola, under which is an altar 
 decked with divers marble statues, all in sight of the sick, 
 who may both see and hear mass, as they lie in their beds. 
 The organs are very fine, and frequently played on to 
 recreate the people in pain. To this joins an apartment 
 destined for the orphans; and there is a school: the 
 children wear blue, like ours in London, at an hospital of 
 the same appellation. Here are forty nurses, who give 
 suck to such children as are accidentally found exposed and 
 abandoned. In another quarter, are children of a bigger 
 growth, 450 in number, who are taught letters. In another, 
 500 girls, under the tuition of divers religious matrons, in a 
 monastery, as it were, by itself. I was assured there were 
 at least 2000 more maintained in other places. I think 
 one apartment had in it near 1000 beds; these are in a 
 very long room, having an inner passage for those who 
 attend, with as much care, sweetness, and conveniency as 
 can be imagined, the Italians being generally very neat. 
 Under the portico, the sick may walk out and take the air. 
 Opposite to this, are other chambers for such as are sick of 
 maladies of a more rare and difficult cure, and they have 
 rooms apart. At the end of the long corridor is an apothe- 
 cary's shop, fair and very well stored; near which are cham- 
 bers for persons of better quality, who are yet necessitous. 
 Whatever the poor bring is, at their coming in, delivered to- 
 a treasurer, who makes an inventory, and is accountable 
 to them, or their representatives, if they die. 
 
 To this building joins the house of the commendator, 
 who, with his officers attending the sick, make up ninety 
 persons ; besides a convent and an ample church for the 
 friars and priests who daily attend. The church is 
 extremely neat, and the sacristia is very rich. Indeed it is 
 altogether one of the most pious and worthy foundations I 
 ever saw. Nor is the benefit small which divers young 
 physicians and chirurgeons reap by the experience they 
 learn here amongst the sick, to whom those students have 
 free access. Hence, we ascended a very steep hill, near 
 the Port St. Pancratio, to that stately fountain called Acqua 
 Paula, being the aqueduct which Augustus had brought to 
 
 VOL. I. L
 
 146 WARY OP [8ERMONETTA, 
 
 Rome, now re-edified by Paulus V. ; a rare piece of archi- 
 tecture, and which serves the city after a journey of thirty- 
 five miles, here pouring itself into divers ample lavers, out 
 of the mouths of swans and dragons, the arms of this Pope. 
 Situate on a very high mount, it makes a most glorious 
 show to the city, especially when the sun darts on the 
 waters as it gusheth out. The inscriptions on it are : 
 
 Paulus V.RomanusPontifex Opt. Max. Aquaeductus ab AugustoCaesare 
 extructos, ssvi longinqua vetustate collapsos, in ampliorem formam 
 restituit anno salutis M. D. CIX. Pont. V. 
 
 And, towards the fields, 
 
 Paulus V. Rom. Pontifex Optimus Maximus, priori ductu longissimi 
 temporis injuria pene diruto, sublimiorem 
 
 ***** 
 
 [One or more leaves are here wanting in Mr. Evelyn's MS. descrip- 
 tive of other parts of Rome, and of his leaving the City.] 
 
 Thence to Velletri, a town heretofore of the Volsci, where 
 is a public and fair statue of P. Urban VIII., in brass, and 
 a stately fountain in the street. Here we lay, and drank 
 excellent wine. 
 
 28th. We dined at Sermonetta, descending all this 
 morning down a stony mountain, unpleasant, yet full 
 of olive-trees ; and, anon, pass a tower built on a rock, 
 kept by a small guard against the banditti who infest these 
 parts, daily robbing and killing passengers, as my Lord 
 Banbury and his company found to their cost a little 
 before. To this guard we gave some money, and so were 
 suffered to pass, which was still on the Appian to the Tres 
 Taberna (whither the brethren came from Rome to meet 
 "St. Paul, Acts, c. 28) ; the ruins whereof are yet very fair, 
 resembling the remainder of some considerable edifice, as 
 may be judged by the vast stones and fairness of the arched 
 work. The country environing this passage is hilly, but 
 rich ; on the right hand stretches an ample plain, being 
 the Pomptini Campi. We reposed this night at Piperno, 
 in the post-house without the town ; and here I was 
 extremely troubled with a sore hand, from a mischance at 
 Rome, which now began to fester, upon my base, unlucky, 
 stiff-necked, trotting, carrion mule ; which are the most 
 wretched beasts in the world. In this town was the poet 
 Virgil's Camilla born. 
 
 The day following, we were fain to hire a strong convoy
 
 J645.] JOHN EVELYN. 147 
 
 of about thirty firelocks, to guard us through the cork- 
 woods (much infested with the banditti) as far as Fossa 
 Nuova, where was the Forum Appii, and now stands a 
 church with a great monastery, the place where Thomas 
 Aquinas both studied and lies buried. Here we all 
 alighted, and were most courteously received by the Monks, 
 who showed us many relics of their learned Saint, and at 
 the high altar the print forsooth of the mule's hoof which 
 he caused to kneel before the Host. The church is old, 
 built after the Gothic manner; but the place is very 
 agreeably melancholy. After this, pursuing the same 
 noble [Appian] way (which we had before left a little), we 
 found it to stretch from Capua to Rome itself, and after- 
 wards as far as Brundusium. It was built by that famous 
 Consul, twenty-five feet broad, every twelve feet some- 
 thing ascending for the ease and firmer footing of horse 
 and man ; both the sides are also a little raised for those 
 who travel on foot. The whole is paved with a kind of 
 beach-stone, and, as I said, ever and anon adorned with 
 ome old ruin, sepulchre, or broken statue. In one of 
 these monuments Pancirollus tells us that, in the time of 
 Paul III., there was found the body of a young lady, 
 swimming in a kind of bath of precious oil, or liquor, fresh 
 and entire as if she had been living, neither her face dis- 
 coloured, nor her hair disordered; at her feet burnt a 
 lamp, which suddenly expired at the opening of the vault ; 
 having flamed, as was computed, now 1500 years, by the 
 conjecture that she was Tulliola, the daughter of Cicero, 
 whose body was thus found, and as the inscription testified. 
 We dined this day at Terracina, heretofore the famous 
 Anxur, which stands upon a very eminent promontory, 
 the Cercean by name. Whilst meat was preparing, I 
 went up into the town, and viewed the fair remainders of 
 Jupiter's Temple, now converted into a church, adorned 
 with most stately columns ; its architecture has been ex- 
 cellent, as may be deduced from the goodly cornices, 
 mouldings, and huge white marbles of which it is built. 
 Before the portico stands a pillar thus inscribed : 
 
 Inclyta Gothorum Regis monumenta vetusta 
 Anxuri hoc Oculos exposuere loco. 
 
 for, it seems, Theodoric drained their marches. 
 
 L 2
 
 DIARY OF [FONDP, 
 
 On another more ancient : 
 
 Imp. Csesar Divi Nervae Filius Nerva Trojanus Aug. Germanicu* 
 Dacicus. Pontif. Max. Trib. Pop. xvm. Imp. vi. Cos. v. p. p. xvm. 
 Silices sua pecunia stravit. 
 
 Meaning, doubtless, some part of the Via Appia. Then, 
 
 Tit. Upio. Aug. optato Pontano Procurator! et Prefect. Classis. Ti, 
 Julius. T. Fab. optatus n vir. 
 
 Here is likewise a Columna Milliaria, with something 
 engraven on it, but I could not stay to consider it. Com- 
 ing down again, I went towards the sea-side to contem- 
 plate that stupendous strange rock and promontory, cleft 
 by hand, I suppose, for the better passage. Within this 
 is the Cercean Cave, which I went into a good way ; it 
 makes a dreadful noise, by reason of the roaring and 
 impetuous waves continually assaulting the beach, and 
 that in an unusual manner. At the top, at an excessive- 
 height, stands an old and very great castle. We arrived 
 this night at Fondi, a most dangerous passage for robbing; 
 and so we passed by Galba's villa, and anon entered the 
 kingdom of Naples, where, at the gate, this epigraph saluted 
 us : " Hospes, hie sunt fines Regni Neopolitani; si amicus 
 advenis, pacate omnia invenies, et mails moribus pulsis, 
 bonas leges." The Via Appia is here a noble prospect ; 
 having before considered how it was carried through vast 
 mountains of rocks for many miles, by most stupendous 
 labour : here it is infinitely pleasant, beset with sepulchres 
 and antiquities, full of sweet shrubs in the environing 
 hedges. At Fondi, we had oranges and citrons for nothing, 
 the trees growing in every corner, charged with fruit. 
 
 29th. We descried Mount Caecubus, famous for the 
 generous wine it heretofore produced, and so rid onward 
 the Appian Way, beset with myrtles, lentiscus's, bays, 
 pomegranates, and whole groves of orange-trees, and most 
 delicious shrubs, till we came to Formiana [Formise], 
 where they showed us Cicero's Tomb, standing in an olive 
 grove, now a rude heap of stones, without form or beauty ; 
 for here that incomparable orator was murdered. I shall 
 never forget how exceedingly I was delighted with the 
 sweetness of this passage, the sepulchre mixed amongst all 
 sorts of verdure ; besides being now come within sight of 
 the noble city, Cajeta [Gaieta], which gives a surprising
 
 1545.] JOHN EVELYN. 149 
 
 prospect along the Tyrrhene Sea, in manner of a theatre : 
 and here we beheld that strangely cleft rock, a frightful 
 spectacle, which they say happened upon the passion of 
 -our Blessed Saviour ; but the haste of our procaccio did not 
 suft'er us to dwell so long on these objects, and the many 
 antiquities of this town, as we desired. 
 
 At Formi, we saw Cicero's grot, dining at Mola, and 
 passing Sinuessa, Garigliano (once the city Mintern), and 
 beheld the ruins of that vast amphitheatre and aqueduct 
 yet standing; the river Liris, which bounded the old 
 Latium, Falernus, or Mons Massicus, celebrated for its 
 wine, now named Garo ; and this night we lodged at a 
 little village, called St. Agatha, in the Falernian Fields, 
 near to Aurunca and Sessa. 
 
 The next day, having passed [the river] Vulturnus, we 
 come by the Torre di Francolisi, where Hannibal, in dan- 
 ger from Fabius Maximus, escaped by debauching his 
 enemies; and so at last we entered the most pleasant 
 plains of Campania, now called Terra di Lavoro ; in very 
 truth, I think, the most fertile spot that ever the sun 
 shone upon. Here we saw the slender ruins of the once 
 mighty Capua, contending at once both with Rome and 
 Carthage, for splendour and empire, now nothing but a 
 heap of rubbish, except showing some vestige of its former 
 magnificence in pieces of temples, arches, theatres, columns, 
 ports, vaults, colosses, &c., confounded together by the 
 barbarous Goths and Longobards; there is, however, a 
 new city, nearer to the road by two miles, fairly raised out 
 of these heaps. The passage from this town to Naples 
 (which is about ten or twelve English post miles) is as 
 straight as a line, of great breadth, fuller of travellers than 
 I remember any of our greatest and most frequented roads 
 near London ; but, what is extremely pleasing, is the great 
 fertility of the fields, planted with fruit-trees, whose boles 
 are serpented with excellent vines, and they so exuberant, 
 that it is commonly reported one vine will load five mules 
 with its grapes. What adds much to the pleasure of the 
 sight is, that the vines, climbing to the summit of the trees, 
 reach in festoons and fruitages from one tree to another, 
 planted at exact distances, forming a more delightful pic- 
 ture than painting can describe. Here grow rice, canes 
 for sugar, olives, pomegranates, mulberries, citrons, oranges,
 
 150 DIARY OP [NAPLES, 
 
 figs, and other sorts of rare fruits. About the middle of 
 the way is the town A versa, whither came three or four 
 coaches to meet our lady-travellers, of whom we now took 
 leave, having been very merry by the way with them and 
 the capitano, their gallant. 
 
 31st. About noon, we entered the city of Naples,. 
 alighting at the Three Kings, where we found the most 
 plentiful fare all the time we were in Naples. Provi- 
 sions are wonderfully cheap; we seldom sat down to- 
 fewer than eighteen or twenty dishes of exquisite meat 
 and fruits. 
 
 The morrow after our arrival, in the afternoon, we hired 
 a coach to carry us about the town. First, we went to the 
 castle of St. Elmo, built on a very high rock, whence we 
 had an entire prospect of the whole city, which lies in 
 shape of a theatre upon the sea-brink, with all the circum- 
 jacent islands, as far as Caprese, famous for the debauched 
 recesses of Tiberius. This fort is the bridle of the whole 
 city, and was well stored and garrisoned with native 
 Spaniards. The strangeness of the precipice and rareness 
 of the prospect of so many magnificent and stately palaces, 
 churches, and monasteries, with the Arsenal, the Mole, 
 and Mount Vesuvius in the distance, all in full command 
 of the eye, make it one of the richest landscapes in the 
 world. 
 
 Hence, we descended to another strong castle, called 
 II Castello Nuovo, which protects the shore ; but they 
 would by no entreaty permit us to go in ; the outward 
 defence seems to consist but in four towers, very high, 
 and an exceeding deep graff, with thick walls. Opposite to 
 this is the tower of St. Vincent, which is also very strong. 
 
 Then we went to the very noble Palace of the Viceroy, 
 partly old, and part of a newer work ; but we did not stay 
 long here. Towards the evening, we took the air upon 
 the Mole, a street on the rampart, or bank, raised in the 
 sea for security of their galleys in port, built as that of 
 Genoa. Here I observed a rich fountain in the middle of 
 the piazza, and adorned with divers rare statues of copper, 
 representing the Sirens, or Deities, of the Parthenope, 
 spouting large streams of water into an ample shell, all of 
 cast metal, and of great cost. This stands at the entrance 
 of the Mole, where M r e met many of the nobility both on
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 horseback and in their coaches to take the fresco from the 
 sea, as the manner is, it being in the most advantageous 
 quarter for good air, delight, and prospect. Here we saw 
 divers goodly horses who handsomely become their riders, 
 the Neapolitan gentlemen. This Mole is about 500 paces 
 in length, and paved with a square hewn stone. From the 
 Mole, we ascend to a church, of great antiquity, formerly 
 sacred to Castor and Pollux, as the Greek letters carved 
 on the architrave and the busts of their two statues testify. 
 It is now converted into a stately oratory by the Theatines. 
 
 The Cathedral is a most magnificent pile, and, except 
 St. Peter's in Rome, Naples exceeds all cities for stately 
 churches and monasteries. We were told that this day 
 the blood of St. Januarius and his head should be exposed, 
 and so we found it, but obtained not to see the miracle of 
 the boiling of this blood. The next we went to see was 
 St. Peter's, richly adorned, the chapel especially, where 
 that Apostle said mass, as is testified on the wall. 
 
 After dinner, we went to St. Dominic, where they 
 showed us the crucifix that is reported to have said these 
 words to St. Thomas, " Bene de me scripsisti, Thoma." 
 Hence, to the Padri Olivetani, famous for the monument 
 of the learned Alexander-ab-Alexandro. 
 
 We proceeded, the next day, to visit the church of Santa 
 Maria Maggiore, where we spent much time in surveying 
 the chapel of Joh. Jov. Pontanus, and in it the several 
 and excellent sentences and epitaphs on himself, wife, 
 children, and friends, full of rare wit, and worthy of record- 
 ing, as we find them in several writers. In the same 
 chapel is showed an arm of Titus Livius, with this epi- 
 graph : " Titi Livij brachium quod Anton. Panormita a 
 Patavinis impetravit, Jo. Jovianus Pontanus multos post 
 annos hoc in loco ponendum curavit." 
 
 Climbing a steep hill, we came to the monastery and 
 church of the Carthusians, from whence is a most goodly 
 prospect towards the sea and city, the one full of galleys 
 and ships, the other of stately palaces, churches, monas- 
 teries, castles, gardens, delicious fields and meadows, 
 Mount Vesuvius smoking, the Promontory of Minerva 
 and Misenum, Capreae, Prochyta, Ischia, Pausilipum, Pu- 
 teoli, and the rest, doubtless one of the most divertissant
 
 152 DIARY OP [NAPLES, 
 
 and considerable vistas in the world, The church is most 
 elegantly built ; the very pavements of the common clois- 
 ter being all laid with variously polished marbles, richly 
 figured. They showed us a massy cross of silver, much 
 celebrated for the workmanship and carving, and said to 
 have been fourteen years in perfecting. The choir also 
 is of rare art; but above all to be admired, is, the yet 
 unfinished church of the Jesuits, certainly, if accomplished, 
 not to be equalled in Europe. Hence, we passed by the 
 Palazzo Caraifi, full of ancient and very noble statues : 
 also the Palace of the Orsini. The next day, we did little 
 but visit some friends, English merchants, resident for 
 their negotiation ; only this morning at the Viceroy's 
 Cavalerizza I saw the noblest horses that I had ever 
 beheld, one of his sons riding the menage with that 
 address and dexterity as I had never seen any thing 
 approach it. 
 
 4th February. We were invited to the collection of exotic 
 rarities in the Museum of Ferdinando Imperati, a Neapo- 
 litan nobleman, and one of the most observable palaces in 
 the city, the repository of incomparable rarities. Amongst 
 the natural herbals most remarkable was the Byssus marina 
 and Pinna marina; the male and female chamelion; an 
 Onocrotatus ; an extraordinary great crocodile ; some of 
 the Orcades Anates, held here for a great rarity ; likewise 
 a salamander; the male and female Manucordiata, the 
 male having a hollow in the back, in which it is reported 
 the female both lays and hatches her egg ; the mandrago- 
 ras, of both sexes ; Papyrus, made of several reeds, and 
 some of silk ; tables of the rinds of trees, written with 
 Japonic characters ; another of the branches of palm ; 
 many Indian fruits; a crystal that had a quantity of 
 uncongealed water within its cavity; a petrified fisher's 
 net ; divers sorts of tarantulas, being a monstrous spider, 
 with lark-like claws, and somewhat bigger. 
 
 5th. This day we beheld the Vice-king's procession, 
 which was very splendid for the relics, banners, and music 
 that accompanied the Blessed Sacrament. The ceremony 
 took up most of the morning. 
 
 6th. We went by coach to take the air, and see the 
 diversions, or rather madness, of the Carnival; the
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 153 
 
 courtesans (who swarm in this city to the number, as we 
 are told, of 30,000, registered and paying a tax to the 
 State) flinging eggs of sweet water into our coach, as we 
 passed by the houses and windows. Indeed, the town is 
 so pestered with these cattle, that there needs no small 
 mortification to preserve from their enchantment, whilst 
 they display all their natural and artificial beauty, play, 
 sing, feign compliment, and by a thousand studied devices 
 seek to inveigle foolish young men. 
 
 7th. The next day, being Saturday, we went four miles 
 out of town on mules, to see that famous volcano, Mount 
 Vesuvius. Here we pass a fair fountain, called Labulla, 
 which continually boils, supposed to proceed from Vesu- 
 vius, and thence over a river and bridge, where, on a large 
 upright stone, is engraven a notable inscription relative to 
 the memorable eruption in 1630.* 
 
 Approaching the hill, as we were able with our mules, 
 we alighted, crawling up the rest of the proclivity with 
 great difficulty, now with our feet, now with our hands, 
 not without many untoward slips which did much bruise 
 us on the various coloured cinders, with which the whole 
 mountain is covered, some like pitch, others full of perfect 
 brimstone, others metallic, interspersed with innumerable 
 pumices (of all which I made a collection), we at the last 
 gained the summit of an excessive altitude. Turning our 
 faces towards Naples, it presents one of the goodliest 
 prospects in the world ; all the Baise, Cuma, Elysian 
 Fields, Caprese, Ischia, Prochyta, Misenus, Puteoli, that 
 goodly city, with a great portion of the Tyrrhene Sea, 
 offering themselves to your view at once, and at so agree- 
 able a distance, as nothing can be more delightful. The 
 mountain consists of a double top, the one pointed very 
 sharp, and commonly appearing above any clouds, the 
 other blunt. Here, as we approached, we met many large 
 gaping clefts and chasms, out of which issued such sul- 
 phureous blasts and smoke, that we durst not stand long 
 near them. Having gained the very summit, I laid myself 
 down to look over into that most frightful and terrible 
 vorago, a stupendous pit of near three miles in circuit, 
 and half a mile in depth, by a perpendicular hollow cliff 
 
 * It may be seeii at length in Wright's Travels, and in Misson's New Voyage 
 to Italy, vol. i., p. 431.
 
 154 DIARY OF [VESUVIUS,. 
 
 (like that from the highest part of Dover Castle), with now 
 and then a craggy prominency jetting out. The area at 
 the bottom is plane, like an even floor, which seems to be 
 made by the winds circling the ashes by its eddy blasts. 
 In the middle and centre is a hill, shaped like a great 
 brown loaf, appearing to consist of sulphureous matter,, 
 continually vomiting a foggy exhalation, and ejecting 
 huge stones with an impetuous noise and roaring, like the 
 report of many muskets discharging. This horrid bara- 
 thrum engaged our attention for some hours, both for the 
 strangeness of the spectacle and the mention which the 
 old histories make of it, as one of the most stupendous 
 curiosities in nature, and which made the learned and 
 inquisitive Pliny adventure his life to detect the causes, 
 and to lose it in too desperate an approach. It is likewise 
 famous for the stratagem of the rebel, Spartacus, who did 
 so much mischief to the State, lurking amongst, and pro- 
 tected by, these horrid caverns, when it was more acces- 
 sible and less dangerous than it is now ; but especially 
 notorious it is for the last conflagration, when, in anno 
 1630, it burst out beyond what it had ever done in the 
 memory of history ; throwing out huge stones and fiery 
 pumices in such quantity, as not only environed the 
 whole mountain, but totally buried and overwhelmed divers 
 towns and their inhabitants, scattering the ashes more 
 than a hundred miles, and utterly devastating all those 
 vineyards, where formerly grew the most incomparable 
 Greco ; when, bursting through the bowels of the earth, 
 it absorbed the very sea, and, with its whirling waters, 
 drew in divers galleys and other vessels to their destruc- 
 tion, as is faithfully recorded. We descended with more 
 ease than we climbed up, through a deep valley of pure 
 ashes, which at the late eruption was a flowing river of 
 melted and burning brimstone, and so came to our mules 
 at the foot of the mountain. 
 
 On Sunday, we with our guide visited the so much cele- 
 brated Baia, and natural rarities of the places adjacent. 
 Here we entered the mountain Pausilypus, at the left 
 hand of which they showed us Virgil's sepulchre erected 
 on a steep rock, in form of a small rotunda, or cupolated 
 column, but almost overgrown with bushes and wild bay 
 trees. At the entrance, is this inscription :
 
 1G45.] JOHN EVELYN. 155 
 
 Stanisi Cencovius. 
 
 1589. 
 
 Qui cineres ? Tumuli hsec vestigia, conditur olim 
 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit Pascua, Rura, Duces. 
 
 Can Ree MDLIIL* 
 
 After we were advanced into this noble and altogether 
 wonderful crypt, consisting of a passage spacious enough 
 for two coaches to go abreast, cut through a rocky moun- 
 tain near three quarters of a mile (by the ancient Cimmerii 
 as reported, but as others say by L. Cocceius, who em- 
 ployed a hundred thousand men on it), we came to the 
 midway, where there is a well bored through the diameter 
 of this vast mountain, which admits the light into a pretty 
 chapel, hewn out of the natural rock, wherein hang divers 
 lamps, perpetually burning. The way is paved under foot, 
 but it does not hinder the dust, which rises so excessively 
 in this much-frequented passage, that we were forced at 
 mid-day to use a torch. At length, we were delivered from 
 the bowels of the earth into one of the most delicious 
 plains in the world : the oranges, lemons, promegranates,. 
 and other fruits, blushing yet on the perpetually green 
 trees; for the summer is here eternal, caused by the 
 natural and adventitious heat of the earth, warmed 
 through the subterranean fires, as was shown us by our 
 guide, who alighted, and, cutting tip a turf with his knife, 
 and delivering it to me, it was so hot, I was hardly able to- 
 hold it in my hands. This mountain is exceedingly fruitful 
 in vines, and exotics grow readily. 
 
 "We now came to a lake, of about two miles in circum- 
 ference, environed with hills ; the water of it is fresh and 
 sweet on the surface, but salt at bottom ; some mineral salt 
 conjectured to be the cause, and it is reported of that pro- 
 funditude in the middle that it is bottomless. The people 
 call it Lago d'Agnano, from the multitude of serpents 
 which, involved together about the spring, fall down from 
 the cliffy hills into it. It has no fish, nor will any live in 
 
 * Such is the inscription, as copied by Mr. Evelyn ; but, as its sense is not 
 very clear, and as the Diary contains instances of incorrectness in tran- 
 scribing, the Editor has thought it desirable to subjoin the distich said 
 (by Keysler in his Travels, vol. ii., p. 433) to be the only one in the whole- 
 mausoleum : 
 
 Quse cineris tumulo hsec vestigia { conditur olim 
 Ille hoc qui cecinit pascua, rura, duces.
 
 DIARY OF [LAGO D'AGNANO, 
 
 it. We tried the old experiment on a dog in the Grotto 
 del Cane, or Charon's Cave ; it is not above three or four 
 paces deep, and about the height of a man, nor very broad. 
 Whatever having life enters it, presently expires. Of 
 this, we made trial with two dogs, one of which we bound 
 to a short pole to guide him the more directly into the 
 further part of the den, where he was no sooner entered, 
 but without the least noise, or so much as a struggle, 
 except that he panted for breath, lolling out his tongue, 
 his eyes being fixed ; we drew him out dead to all appear- 
 ance ; but immediately plunging him into the adjoining 
 lake, within less than half an hour he recovered, and, 
 swimming to shore, ran away from us. We tried the same 
 on another dog, without the application of the water, and 
 left him quite dead. The experiment has been made on 
 men, as on that poor creature whom Peter of Toledo 
 caused to go in ; likewise on some Turkish slaves ; two 
 soldiers, and other fool-hardy persons, who all perished, 
 and could never be recovered by the water of the lake, as 
 are dogs; for which many learned reasons have been 
 offered, as Simon Majolus in his book of the Canicular- 
 days has mentioned, colloq. 15. And certainly the most 
 likely is, the effect of those hot and dry vapours which 
 ascend out of the earth, and are condensed by the ambient 
 cold, as appears by their converting into crystalline drops 
 on the top, whilst at the bottom it is so excessively hot, 
 that a torch being extinguished near it, and lifted a little 
 distance, was suddenly re-lighted. 
 
 Near to this cave are the natural stoves of St. Germain, 
 of the nature of sudatories, in certain chambers partitioned 
 with stone for the sick to sweat in, the vapours here being 
 exceedingly hot, and of admirable success in the gout, and 
 other cold distempers of the nerves. Hence, we climbed 
 up a hill, the very highway in several places even smoking 
 with heat like a furnace. The mountains were by the 
 Greeks called Leucogaei, and the fields Phlegraean. Her- 
 cules here vanquished the Giants, assisted with lightning. 
 We now came to the Court of Vulcan, consisting of a 
 valley near a quarter of a mile in breadth, the margent 
 environed with steep cliffs, out of whose sides and foot 
 break forth fire and smoke in abundance, making a noise 
 like a tempest of water, and sometimes discharging in loud
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 137 
 
 reports, like so many guns. The heat of this place is won- 
 derful, the earth itself being almost unsufferable, and 
 which the subterranean fires have made so hollow, by 
 having wasted the matter for so many years, that it sounds 
 like a drum to those who walk upon it; and the water 
 thus struggling with those fires, bubbles and spouts aloft 
 into the air. The mouths of these spiracles are bestrewed 
 with variously-coloured cinders, which rise with the vapour, 
 as do many coloured stones, according to the quality of 
 the combustible matter, insomuch as it is no little adven- 
 ture to approach them. They are, however, daily fre- 
 quented both by sick and well ; the former receiving the 
 fumes, have been recovered of diseases esteemed incurable. 
 Here we found a great deal of sulphur made, which they 
 refine in certain houses near the place, casting it into 
 canes, to a very great value. Near this we were showed a 
 hill of alum, where is one of the best mineries, yielding a 
 considerable revenue. Some flowers of brass are found 
 here; but I could not but smile at those who persuade 
 themselves that here are the gates of purgatory (for which 
 it may be they have erected, very near it, a convent, and 
 named it St. Januarius), reporting to have often heard 
 screeches and horrible lamentations proceeding from these 
 caverns and volcanoes ; with other legends of birds that are 
 never seen, save on Sundays, which cast themselves into 
 the lake at night, appearing no more all the week after. 
 
 We now approached the ruins of a very stately temple, 
 or theatre, of 172 feet in length, and about eighty in 
 breadth, thrown down by an earthquake, not long since ; 
 it was consecrated to Vulcan, and under the ground are 
 many strange meanders ; from which it is named the 
 Labyrinth ; this place is so haunted with bats, that their 
 perpetual fluttering endangered the putting-out our links. 
 
 Hence, we passed again those boiling and smoking 
 hills, till we came to Pozzolo, formerly the famous Puteoli, 
 the landing-place of St. Paul, when he came into Italy, 
 after the tempest described in the Acts of the Apostles. 
 Here we made a good dinner, and bought divers medals, 
 antiquities, and other curiosities, of the country-people, 
 who daily find such things amongst the very old ruins of 
 those places. This town was formerly a Greek colony, 
 built by the Samians, a reasonable commodious port, and
 
 153 DIARY OF [POZZOLO, 
 
 full of observable antiquities. We saw the ruins of 
 Neptune's Temple, to whom this place was sacred, and 
 near it the stately Palace and gardens of Peter de Toledo, 
 formerly mentioned. Afterwards, we visited that admirably 
 built Temple of Augustus, seeming to have been hewn 
 out of an entire rock, though indeed consisting of several 
 square stones. The inscription remains thus : " L. Cal- 
 phurnius L. F. Templum Augusto cum ornamentis D.D. ; " 
 and under it; "L. Coccejus L. C. Postumi L. Auctus 
 Architectus." It is now converted into a church, in which 
 they showed us huge bones, which they affirm to have 
 been of some giant. 
 
 We went to see the ruins of the old haven, so compact 
 with that bituminous sand in which the materials are laid, 
 as the like is hardly to be found, though all this has not 
 been sufficient to protect it from the fatal concussions of 
 several earthquakes (frequent here) which have^ almost 
 demolished it, thirteen vast piles of marble only remain- 
 ing ; a stupendous work in the bosom of Neptune ! To 
 this joins the bridge of Caligula, by which (having now 
 embarked ourselves) we sailed to the pleasant Baia, almost 
 four miles in length, all which way that proud Emperor 
 would pass in triumph. Here we rowed along towards a 
 villa of the orator Cicero's, where we were showed the 
 ruins of his Academy ; and, at the foot of a rock, his Baths, 
 the waters reciprocating their tides with the neighbouring 
 sea. Hard at hand, rises Mount Gaurus, being, as I 
 conceived, nothing save a heap of pumices, which here 
 float in abundance on the sea, exhausted of all inflammable 
 matter by the fire, which renders them light and porous, 
 so as the beds of nitre, which lie deep under them, having 
 taken fire, do easily eject them. They dig much for 
 fancied treasure said to be concealed about this place. 
 From hence, we coasted near the ruins of Portus Julius, 
 where we might see divers stately palaces that had been 
 swallowed up by the sea after earthquakes. Coming to 
 shore, we pass by the Lucrine Lake, so famous heretofore 
 for its delicious oysters, now producing few or none, being 
 divided from the sea by a bank of incredible labour, the 
 supposed work of Hercules ; it is now half choked up with 
 rubbish, and by part of the new mountain, which rose 
 partly out of it, and partly out of the sea, and that in the
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 159 
 
 space of one night and a day, to a very great altitude, on 
 the 29th September, 1538, after many terrible earthquakes, 
 which ruined divers places thereabout, when at midnight 
 the sea retiring near 200 paces, and yawning on the sud- 
 den, it continued to vomit forth flames and fiery stones in 
 such quantity, as produced this whole mountain by their 
 fall, making the inhabitants of Pozzolo to leave their 
 habitations, supposing the end of the world had been 
 come. 
 
 From the left part of this, we walked to the Lake 
 Avernus, of a round form, and totally environed with 
 mountains. This lake was feigned by the Poet for the 
 gates of hell, by which JEneas made his descent, and 
 where he sacrificed to Pluto and the Manes. The waters 
 are of a remarkable black colour ; but I tasted of them 
 without danger ; hence, they feign that the river Styx has 
 its source. At one side, stand the handsome ruins of a 
 temple dedicated to Apollo, or rather Pluto, but it is con- 
 troverted. Opposite to this, having new lighted our 
 torches, we enter a vast cave, in which having gone about 
 two hundred paces, we pass a narrow entry which leads us 
 into a room of about ten paces long, proportionable broad 
 and high ; the side walls and roof retain still the golden 
 mosaic, though now exceedingly decayed by time. Here 
 is a short cell, or rather niche, cut out of the solid rock, 
 somewhat resembling a couch, in which they report 
 that the Sibylla lay, and uttered her Oracles; but it is 
 supposed by most to have been a bath only. This subter- 
 ranean grot leads quite through to Cuma, but is in some 
 places obstructed by the earth which has sunk in, so as we 
 were constrained back again, and to creep on our bellies, 
 before we came to the light. It is reported Nero had 
 once resolved to cut a channel for two great galleys that 
 should have extended to Ostia, 150 miles distant. The 
 people now call it Licola. 
 
 From hence, we ascended to that most ancient city of 
 Italy, the renowned Cuma, built by the Grecians. It 
 stands on a very eminent promontory, but is now a heap 
 of ruins. A little below, stands the Arco Felice, hereto- 
 fore part of Apollo's Temple, with the foundations of divers 
 goodly buildings; amongst whose heaps are frequently 
 found statues and other antiquities, by such as dig for
 
 1(50 DIARY OP [MISENUS, 
 
 them. Near this is the Lake Acherutia, and Acheron. 
 Returning to the shore, we came to the Bagni de Tritoli 
 and Diana, which are only long narrow passages cut 
 through the main rock, where the vapours ascend so hot, 
 that entering with the body erect you will even faint with 
 excessive perspiration; but, stooping lower, as sudden a 
 cold surprises. These sudatories are much in request 
 for many infirmities. Now we entered the haven of the 
 Baise, where once stood that famous town, so called from 
 the companion of Ulysses here buried not without great 
 reason celebrated for one of the most delicious places that 
 the sun shines on, according to that of Horace : 
 
 Nullus in Orbe locus Bails prselucet amcenis. 
 
 Though, as to the stately fabrics, there now remain little 
 save the ruins, whereof the most entire is that of Diana's 
 Temple, and another of Venus. Here were those famous 
 poles of lampreys that would come to hand when called by 
 name, as Martial tells us. On the summit of the rock 
 stands a strong castle garrisoned to protect the shore from 
 Turkish pirates. It was once the retiring place of Julius 
 Caesar. 
 
 Passing by the shore again, we entered Bauli, obser- 
 vable from the monstrous murder of Nero committed on 
 his mother Agrippina. Her sepulchre was yet showed us 
 in the rock, which we entered, being covered with sundry 
 heads and figures of ^beasts. We saw there the roots of a 
 tree turned into stone, and are continually dropping. 
 
 Thus having viewed the foundations of the old Cimmeria, 
 the palaces of Marius, Pompey, Nero, Hortensius, and 
 other villas and antiquities, we proceeded towards the 
 promontory of Misenus, renowned for the sepulchre 
 of ^Eneas's Trumpeter. It was once a great city, now 
 hardly a ruin, said to have been built from this place 
 to the promontory of Minerva, fifty miles distant, now 
 discontinued and demolished by the frequent earth- 
 quakes. Here was the villa of Caius Marius, where Tibe- 
 rius Caesar died ; and here runs the Aqueduct, thought to 
 be dug by Nero, a stupendous passage, heretofore nobly 
 arched with marble, as the ruins testify. Hence, we 
 walked to those receptacles of water called Piscina Mira- 
 bilis, being a vault of 500 feet long, and twenty-two in
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 breadth, the roof propped up with four ranks of square 
 pillars, twelve in a row ; the walls are brick, plastered over 
 with such a composition as for strength and politure 
 resembles white marble. 'Tis conceived to have been 
 built by Nero, as a conservatory for fresh water ; as were 
 also the Centi Camerelli, into which we were next led. 
 All these crypta being now almost sunk into the earth, 
 show yet their former amplitude and magnificence. 
 
 Returning towards the Baia, we again pass the Elysian 
 Fields, so celebrated by the poets, nor unworthily, for their 
 situation and verdure, being full of myrtles and sweet 
 shrubs, and having a most delightful prospect towards the 
 "Tyrrhene Sea. Upon the verge of these remain the ruins 
 of the Mercato di Saboto, formerly a Circus ; over the 
 arches stand divers urns, full of Roman ashes. 
 
 Having well satisfied our curiosity among these antiqui- 
 ties, we retired to our felucca, which rowed us back again 
 towards Pozzolo, at the very place of St. Paul's landing. 
 Keeping along the shore, they showed us a place where 
 "the sea-water and sands did exceedingly boil. Thence, to 
 the island Nesis, once the fabulous Nymph ; and thus we 
 leave the Baia, so renowned for the sweet retirements of 
 ihe most opulent and voluptuous Romans. They certainly 
 were places of uncommon amenity, as their yet tempting 
 -site, and other circumstances of natural curiosities, easily 
 invite me to believe, since there is not in the world so 
 many stupendous rarities to be met with, as in the circle of 
 a few miles which environ these blissful abodes. 
 
 8th. Returned to Naples, we went to see the Arsenal, 
 well furnished with galleys and other vessels. The city 
 is crowded with inhabitants, gentlemen and merchants. 
 The government is held of the Pope by an annual 
 tribute of 40,000 ducats and a white jennet; but the 
 Spaniard trusts more to the power of those his natural 
 subjects there ; Apulia and Calabria yielding him near 
 four millions of crowns yearly to maintain it. The country 
 is divided into thirteen Provinces, twenty Archbishops, 
 and one-hundred-and-seven Bishops ; the estates of the 
 nobility, in default of the male line, reverting to the King. 
 Besides the Vice-Roy, there is amongst the Chief Magis- 
 trates a High Constable, Admiral, Chief Justice, Great 
 Chamberlain, and Chancellor, with a Secretary; these 
 
 VOL. I. M
 
 1(52 DIARY OF [NAPLES, 
 
 being prodigiously avaricious, do wonderfully enrich them- 
 selves out of the miserable people's labour, silks, manna, 
 sugar, oil, wine, rice, sulphur, and alum ; for with all these 
 riches is this delicious country blest. The manna falls at 
 certain seasons on the adjoining hills in form of a thick 
 dew. The very winter here is a summer, ever fruitful, so 
 that in the middle of February we had melons, cherries, 
 apricots, and many other sorts of fruit. 
 
 The building of the city is for the size the most magni- 
 ficent of any in Europe, the streets exceeding large, well- 
 paved, having many vaults and conveyances under them 
 for the sulliage ; which renders them very sweet and clean, 
 even in the midst of winter. To it belongeth more than 
 3000 churches and monasteries, and these the best built 
 and adorned of any in Italy. They greatly affect the 
 Spanish gravity in their habit ; delight in good horses ; 
 the streets are full of gallants on horseback, in coaches and 
 sedans, from hence brought first into England by Sir 
 Sanders Duncomb. The women are generally well-featured, 
 but excessively libidinous. The country-people so jovial 
 and addicted to music, that the very husbandmen almost 
 universally play on the guitar, singing and composing songs 
 in praise of their sweethearts, and will commonly go to the 
 field with their fiddle ; they are merry, witty, and genial ; 
 all which I much attribute to the excellent quality of the 
 air. They have a deadly hatred to the French, so that 
 some of our company were flouted at for wearing red cloaks, 
 as the mode then was. 
 
 This I made the non ultra of my travels, sufficiently 
 sated with rolling up and down, and resolving within 
 myself to be no longer an individuum vagum, if ever I got 
 home again ; since, from the report of clivers experienced 
 and curious persons, I had been assured there was little 
 more to be seen in the rest of the civil world, after Italy, 
 France, Flanders, and the Low Countries, but plain and 
 prodigious barbarism. 
 
 Thus, about the 7th of February, we set out on our re- 
 turn to Rome by the same way we came, not daring to 
 adventure by sea, as some of our company were inclined to 
 do, for fear of Turkish pirates hovering on that coast ; nor 
 made we any stay save at Albano, to view the celebrated 
 place and sepulchre of the famous duellists who decided the
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 163 
 
 ancient quarrel between their imperious neighbours with 
 the loss of their lives. These brothers, the Horatii and 
 Curiatii, lie buried near the highway, under two ancient 
 pyramids of stone, now somewhat decayed and overgrown 
 with rubbish. We took the opportunity of tasting the 
 wine here, which is famous. 
 
 Being arrived at Rome on the 13th February, we were 
 again invited to Signor Angeloni's study,* where with 
 greater leisure we surveyed the rarities, as his cabinet and 
 medals especially, esteemed one of the best collections of 
 them in Europe. He also showed us two antique lamps, 
 one of them dedicated to Pallas, the other Laribus Sacru', 
 as appeared by their inscriptions ; some old Roman rings 
 and keys ; the Egyptian Isis, cast in iron ; sundry rare 
 basso-relievos; good pieces of painting, principally the 
 Christ of Correggio, with this painter's own face admirably 
 done by himself; divers of both the Bassanos ; a great 
 number of pieces by Titian, particularly the Triumphs ; 
 an infinity of natural rarities, dried animals, Indian habits 
 and weapons, shells, &c. ; divers very antique statues of 
 brass ; some lamps of so fine an earth, that they resembled 
 cornelians, for transparency and colour ; hinges of Corin- 
 thian brass, and one great nail of the same metal found in 
 the ruins of Nero's golden house. 
 
 In the afternoon, we ferried over to Transtevere, to the 
 Palace of Gichi,f to review the works of Raphael : and, 
 returning by St. Angelo, we saw the castle as far as was 
 permitted, and on the other side considered those admirable 
 pilasters supposed to be of the foundation of the Pons 
 Sublicius, over which Horatius Codes passed ; here anchor 
 three or four water-mills, invented by Belizarius : and 
 thence had another sight of the Farnesi's gardens, J and 
 of the terrace where is that admirable painting of Raphael, 
 being a Cupid playing with a Dolphin, wrought a fresco, 
 preserved in shutters of wainscot, as well it merits, being 
 certainly one of the most wonderful pieces of work in the 
 world. 
 
 14th. I went to Santa Cecilia, a church built and 
 endowed by Cardinal Sfrondaeti, who has erected a 
 stately altar near the body of this martyr, not long before 
 found in a vesture of silk girt about, a veil on her head, 
 
 *See p. 110. f See. p. 134. JSee p. 102.
 
 164 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 and the bloody scars of three wounds on the neck ; the 
 body is now in a silver chest, with her statue over it, in 
 snow-white marble. Other Saints lie here, decorated with 
 splendid ornaments, lamps, and incensories of great cost. 
 A little farther, they show us the Bath of St. Cecilia, to 
 which joins a Convent of Friars, where is the picture of the 
 Flagellation by Vanni, and the columns of the portico, 
 taken from the Baths of Septimius Severus. 
 
 15th. Mr. Henshaw and I walked by the Tyber, and 
 visited the Stola Tybertiua (now St. Bartholomew's), 
 formerly cut in the shape of a ship, and wharfed with 
 marble, in which a lofty obelisk represented the mast. 
 In the Church of St. Bartholomew is the body of the 
 Apostle. Here are the ruins of the Temple of j?Escula- 
 pius, now converted into a stately hospital and a pretty 
 convent. Opposite to it, is the convent and church of St. 
 John Calabita, where I saw nothing remarkable, save an old 
 broken altar. Here was the Temple of Fortuna Virilis. 
 Hence, we went to a cupola, now a church, formerly dedi- 
 cated to the Sun. Opposite to it, Santa Maria Schola 
 Grseca, where formerly that tongue was taught, said to 
 be the second church dedicated in Rome to the Blessed 
 Virgin, bearing also the title of a Cardinalate. Behind 
 this stands the great altar of Hercules, much demolished. 
 Near this, being at the foot of Mount Aventine, are the 
 Pope's salt-houses. Ascending the hill, we came to St. 
 Sabina, an ancient fabric, formerly sacred to Diana; 
 there, in a chapel, is an admirable picture, the work of 
 Li via Fontana, set about with columns of alabaster, and 
 in the middle of the church is a stone, cast, as they report, 
 by the Devil at St. Dominic, whilst he was at mass. Hence, 
 we travelled towards a heap of rubbish, called the Marmo- 
 rata, on the bank of the Tyber, a magazine of stones, and 
 near which formerly stood a triumphal arch, in honour of 
 Horatius vanquishing the Tuscans. The ruins of the 
 bridge yet appear. 
 
 We were now got to Mons Testaceus, an heap of pot- 
 sherds, almost 200 feet high, thought to have been thrown 
 there and amassed by the subjects of the Commonwealth 
 bringing their tribute in earthen vessels, others (more 
 probably) that it was a quarter of the town where potters 
 lived; at the summit Rome affords a noble prospect.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 165 
 
 Before it is a spacious green, called the Hippodrome, 
 where Olympic games were celebrated, and the people 
 mustered, as in our London Artillery-ground. Going 
 hence, to the old wall of the city, we much admired the 
 pyramid, or tomb, of Caius Cestius, of white marble, one 
 of the most ancient entire monuments, inserted in the 
 wall, with this inscription : 
 
 "C. Cestius L. F. Fob. Epulo (an order of priests) Pr. Tr. pi. VII. 
 Vir. Epulonum." 
 
 And a little beneath : 
 
 " Opus absolutum ex testamento diebus CCCXXX. arbitratu. Ponti 
 P. F. Cla. Melse Heredis et Pothi L." 
 
 At the left hand, is the Port of St. Paul, once Ter- 
 gemina, out of which the three Horatii passed to encounter 
 the Curiatii of Albano. Hence, bending homewards by 
 St. Saba, by Antoninus's Baths (which we entered) is the 
 marble Sepulchre of Vespasian. The thickness of the 
 walls and stately ruins show the enormous magnitude of 
 these baths. Passing by a corner of the Circus Maximus, 
 we viewed the place where stood the Septizonium, demo- 
 lished by Sextus V., for fear of its falling. Going by 
 Mons. Coelius, we beheld the devotions of St. Maria in 
 Navicula, so named from a ship carved out in white 
 marble standing on a pedestal before it, supposed to be the 
 vow of one escaped from shipwreck. It has a glorious 
 front to the street. Adjoining to this are the Horti 
 Mathsei, which only of all the places about the city I 
 omitted visiting, though I was told inferior to no garden 
 in Rome for statues, ancient monuments, aviaries, foun- 
 tains, groves, and especially a noble obelisk, and main- 
 tained in beauty at an expense of 6000 crowns yearly, 
 which, if not expended to keep up its beauty, forfeits the 
 possession of a greater revenue to another family; so 
 curious are they in their villas and places of pleasure, even 
 to excess. 
 
 The next day, we went to the once famous Circus Cara- 
 calla, in the midst of which there now lay prostrate one 
 of the most stately and ancient obelisks, full of Egyptian 
 hieroglyphics. It was broken into four pieces, when over- 
 thrown by the Barbarians, and would have been purchased 
 and transported into England by the magnificent Thomas
 
 166 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 Earl of Arundel, could it have been well removed to the 
 sea. This is since set together and placed on the stupen- 
 dous artificial rock made by Innocent X., and serving for 
 a fountain in Piazza Navona, the work of Bernini, the 
 Pope's architect. Near this is the Sepulchre of Metellus, 
 of massy stone, pretty entire, now called Capo di Bove. 
 Hence, to a small oratory, named Domine quo vadis, 
 where the tradition is, that our Blessed Saviour met St. 
 Peter as he fled, and turned him back again. 
 
 St. Sebastian's was the next, a mean structure (the 
 facciata excepted), but is venerable, especially for the 
 relics and grots in which lie the ashes of many holy men. 
 Here is kept the pontifical chair sprinkled with the blood 
 of Pope Stephen, to which great devotion is paid ; also a 
 well full of martyrs' bones, and the sepulchre of St. Sebas- 
 tian, with one of the arrows [used in shooting him]. 
 These are preserved by the Fulgentine Monks, who have 
 here their monastery, and who led us down into a grotto 
 which they affirmed went divers furlongs under ground ; 
 the sides, or walls, which we passed were filled with bones 
 and dead bodies, laid (as it were) on shelves, whereof some 
 were shut np with broad stones, and now and then a cross, 
 or a palm, cut in them. At the end of some of these sub- 
 terranean passages, were square rooms with altars in them, 
 said to have been the receptacles of primitive Christians, 
 in the times of persecution, nor seems it improbable. 
 
 17th. I was invited, after dinner, to the Academy 
 of the Humorists, kept in a spacious hall belonging 
 to Signer Mancini, where the wits of the town meet 
 on certain days to recite poems, and debate on several 
 subjects. The first that speaks is called the Lord, and 
 stands in an eminent place, and then the rest of the Vir- 
 tuosi recite in order. By these ingenious exercises, besides 
 the learned discourses, is the purity of the Italian tongue 
 daily improved. The room is hung round with devices, or 
 emblems, with mottoes under them. There are several 
 other Academies of this nature, bearing like fantastical 
 titles. In this of the Humorists is the picture of Guarini, 
 the famous author of the Pastor Fido, once of this society. 
 The chief part of the day we spent in hearing the academic 
 exercises. 
 
 18th. We walked to St. Nicholas in Carcere; it has
 
 1645. J JOHN EVELYN. 167 
 
 a fair front, and within are parts of the bodies of St. 
 Mark and Marcellino; on the Tribuna is a painting of 
 Gentileschi, and the altar of Caval ; Baglioni, with some 
 other rare paintings. Coming round from hence, we 
 passed by the Circus Flaminius, formerly very large, now 
 totally in ruins. In the afternoon, we visited the English 
 Jesuits, with whose Superior, P. Stafford, I was well ac- 
 quainted; who received us courteously. They call their 
 church and college St. Thomasso de gli Inglesi, and is a 
 seminary. Amongst other trifles, they show the relics of 
 Becket, their reputed martyr. Of paintings there is one 
 of Durante, and many representing the sufferings of 
 several of their society executed in England, especially 
 F. Campion. 
 
 In the Hospital of the Pelerini della S. Trinita, I had 
 seen the feet of many pilgrims washed by Princes, Cardi- 
 nals, and noble Romans, and served at table, as the ladies 
 and noble women did to other poor creatures in another 
 room. It was told us that no less than 444,000 men had 
 been thus treated in the Jubilee of 1600, and 25,500 
 women, as appears by the register, which brings store of 
 money. 
 
 Returning homeward, I saw the Palace of Cardinal 
 Spada, where is a most magnificent hall painted by Daniel 
 da Volterra and Giulio Piacentino, who made the fret in 
 the little Court ; but the rare perspectives are of Bolognesi. 
 Near this is the Monte Pieta, instituted as a bank for the 
 poor, who, if the sum be not great, may have money upon 
 pawns. To this joins St. Martino, to which belongs a 
 Schola, or Corporation, that do many works of charity. 
 Hence, we came through Campo di Fiori, or herb-market, 
 in the midst of which is a fountain casting water out of a 
 dolphin, in copper ; and in this piazza is common execu- 
 tion done. 
 
 19th. I went, this afternoon, to visit my Lord John 
 Somerset, brother to the Marquis of Worcester, who had 
 his apartment in Palazzo della Cancellaria, belonging to 
 Cardinal Francesco Barberini, as Vice-chancellor of the 
 Church of Rome, and Protector of the English. The 
 building is of the famous architect, Bramante, of incrusted 
 marble, with four ranks of noble lights; the principal 
 entrance is of Fontana's design, and all marble; the
 
 168 DIARY OP [ROME, 
 
 portico within sustained by massy columns ; on the second 
 peristyle above, the chambers are rarely painted by Sal- 
 viati and Vasari ; and so ample is this Palace, that six 
 princes with their families have been received in it at one 
 time, without incommoding each other. 
 
 20th. I went as was my usual custom and spent an 
 afternoon in Piazza Navona, as well to see what anti- 
 quities I could purchase among the people who hold 
 market there for medals, pictures, and such curiosities, as 
 to hear the Mountebanks prate, and distribute their medi- 
 cines. This was formerly the Circus, or Agonales, dedi- 
 cated to sports and pastimes, and is now the greatest mar- 
 ket of the city, having three most noble fountains, and 
 the stately palaces of the Pamfilii, St. Giacomo de Spag- 
 noli belonging to that nation, to which add two convents 
 for Friars and Nuns, all Spanish. In this church was. 
 erected a most stately Catafalco, or Capella ardente, for 
 the death of the Queen of Spain ; the church was hung 
 with black, and here I heard a Spanish sermon, or funebral 
 oration, and observed the statues, devices, and impresses 
 hung about the walls, the church and pyramid stuck with 
 thousands of lights and tapers, which made a glorious 
 show. The statue of St. James is by Sansovino ; there are 
 also some good pictures of Caracci. The facciata, too, is 
 fair. Returning home, I passed by the stumps of old 
 Pasquin, at the corner of a street, called Strada Pontificia ; 
 here they still paste up their drolling lampoons and scur- 
 rilous papers. This had formerly been one of the best 
 statues for workmanship and art in all the city, as th& 
 remaining bust does still show. 
 
 21st. I walked in the morning up the hill towards 
 the Capuchins, where was then Cardinal Oimfrio (brother 
 to the late Pope Urban VIII.) of the same order. 
 He built them a pretty church, full of rare pictures, and 
 there lies the body of St. Felix, that they say still does 
 miracles. The piece at the great altar is by Lanfranc. 
 It is a lofty edifice, with a beautiful avenue of trees, and in 
 a good air. After dinner, passing along the Strada del 
 Corso, I observed the column of Antoninus, passing under 
 Arco Portugallo, which is but a relic, heretofore erected 
 in honour of Domitian, called now Portugallo, from a Car- 
 dinal living near it. A little further on the right hand,
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 169 
 
 stands the column in a small piazza, heretofore set up in 
 honour of M. Aurelius Antoninus, comprehending in a 
 basso-relievo of white marble his hostile acts against the 
 Parthians, Armenians, Germans, &c. ; but it is now some- 
 what decayed. On the summit has been placed the image 
 of St. Paul, of gilded copper. The pillar is said to be 161 
 feet high, ascended by 207 steps, receiving light by fifty- 
 six apertures, without defacing the sculpture. 
 
 At a little distance, are the relics of the Emperor's 
 Palace, the heads of whose pillars show them to have been 
 Corinthian. 
 
 Turning a little down, we came to another piazza, in 
 which stands a sumptuous vase of porphyry, and a fair 
 fountain ; but the grace of this market, and indeed the 
 admiration of the whole world, is the Pantheon, now 
 called S. Maria della Rotonda, formerly sacred to all 
 the Gods, and still remaining the most entire antiquity of 
 the city. It was built by Marcus Agrippa, as testifies the 
 architrave of the portico, sustained by thirteen pillars of 
 Thebau marble,'six feet thick, and fifty-three in height, of 
 one entire stone. In this porch is an old inscription. 
 
 Entering the church, we admire the fabric, wholly 
 covered with one cupola, seemingly suspended in the air, 
 and receiving light by a hole in the middle only. The 
 structure is near as high as broad, viz. 144 feet, not count- 
 ing the thickness of the walls, which is twenty-two more 
 to the top, all of white marble, and till Urban VIII. con- 
 verted part of the metal into ordnance of war against the 
 Duke of Parma, and part to make the high altar in St. 
 Peter's, it was all over covered with Corinthian brass, 
 ascending by forty degrees within the roof, or convex, of 
 the cupola, richly carved with octagons in the stone. 
 There are niches in the walls, in which stood heretofore 
 the statues of Jupiter and the other Gods and Goddesses ; 
 for here was that Venus which had hung in her ear the 
 other Union* that Cleopatra was about to dissolve and 
 
 And in the cup an union shall he throw, 
 Richer than that which four successive kings 
 In Denmark's crown have worn. 
 
 Shakspeare, Hamlet, Act v. Sc. 2, 
 ed. Johnson and Steevens. 
 
 Theobald says, an union is the finest sort of pearl, and has its place in all
 
 170 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 drink up, as she had done its fellow. There are several of 
 these niches, one above another, for the celestial, terrestrial, 
 and subterranean deities ; but the place is now converted 
 into a church dedicated to the Blessed Virgin and all the 
 Saints. The pavement is excellent, and the vast folding- 
 gates, of Corinthian brass. In a word, it is of all the 
 Roman antiquities the most worthy of notice. There lie 
 interred in this Temple the famous Raphael di Urbino, 
 Perino del Vaga, F. Zuccharo, and other painters. 
 
 Returning home, we pass by Cardinal Cajetan's Palace, 
 a noble piece of architecture of Vincenzo Ammanatti, 
 which is the grace of the whole Corso. 
 
 22nd. I went to Trinita del Monte, a monastery 
 of French, a noble church built by Louis XI. and 
 Charles VIII., the chapels well painted, especially that 
 by Zuccari, Volterra, and the cloister with the miracles 
 of their St. Francis de Paulo, and the heads of the French 
 Kings. In the pergolo above, the walls are wrought with 
 excellent perspective, especially the St. John; there are 
 the Babylonish dials, invented by Kircher, the Jesuit. 
 This convent, so eminently situated on Mons Pincius, has 
 the entire prospect of Campus Martius, and has a fair 
 garden which joins to the Palazzo di Medici. 
 
 23rd. I went to hear a sermon at St. Giacomo de gli 
 Incurabili, a fair church built by F. Volaterra, of good 
 architecture, and so is the hospital, where only desperate 
 patients are brought. I passed the evening at St. Maria 
 del Popolo, heretofore Nero's sepulchre, where his ashes 
 lay many years in a marble chest. To this church joins 
 the monastery of St. Augustine, which has pretty gardens 
 on Mons Pincius, and in the church is the miraculous 
 shrine of the Madonna which Pope Paul III. brought 
 barefooted to the place, supplicating for a victory over 
 the Turks, in 1464. In a chapel of the Ghisi, are some 
 rare paintings of Raphael, and noble sculptures. Those 
 two in the choir are by Sansovino, and in the chapel de 
 Cerasii, a piece of Caravaggio. Here lie buried many great 
 
 crowns and coronets. Steevens cites from Soliman and Persida " Ay, were 
 it Cleopatra's imion" adding the following elucidation of the term from P. 
 Holland's Translation of Pliny's Natural History : " And hereupon it is that 
 our dainties and delicates here at Rome, &c. call them unions, as a man would 
 say singular and by themselves alone." EDIT.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 scholars and artists, of which I took notice of this inscrip- 
 tion: 
 
 Hospes, disce novum mortis genus; improba felis, 
 Dum trahitur, digitum inordet, et intereo. 
 
 Opposite to the facciata of the church is a superb 
 obelisk full of hieroglyphics, the same that Sennesertus, 
 King of Egypt, dedicated to the Sun, brought to Rome by 
 Augustus, erected in the Circus Maximus, and since 
 placed here by Pope Sextus V. It is eighty-eight feet 
 high, of one entire stone, and placed with great art and 
 engines by the famous Domenico Fontana. 
 
 Hence, turning on the right out of the Porto del Popolo, 
 we came to Justinian's gardens, near the Muro Torto, so 
 prominently built as threatening every moment to fall, yet 
 standing so for these thousand years. Under this is the 
 burying-place for the common prostitutes, where they are 
 put into the ground, sans ceremonie. 
 
 24th. We walked to St. Roche's and Martinets, 
 near the brink of the Tyber, a large hospital for both 
 sexes. Hence, to the Mausoleum Augusti, betwixt the 
 Tyber and the Via Flaminia, now much ruined, which had 
 formerly contended for its sumptuous architecture. It was 
 intended as a cemetery for the Roman Emperors, had 
 twelve ports, and was covered with a cupola of white 
 marble, environed with stately trees and innumerable 
 statues, all of it now converted into a garden. We passed 
 the afternoon at the Sapienza, a very stately building full 
 of good marbles, especially the portico, of admirable archi- 
 tecture. These are properly the University Schools, 
 where lectures are read on Law, Medicine, and Anatomy, 
 and students perform their exercises. 
 
 Hence, we walked to the church of St. Andrea della 
 Valle, near the former Theatre of Pompey, and the famous 
 Piccolomini, but given to this church and the Order, who 
 are Theatins. The Barberini have in this place a chapel, 
 of curious incrusted marbles of several sorts, and rare 
 paintings. Under it is the place where St. Sebastian is 
 said to have been beaten with rods before he was shot with 
 darts. The cupola is painted by Lanfranc, an inestimable 
 work, and the whole fabric and monastery adjoining are 
 admirable.
 
 172 DIARY OP [ROMK, 
 
 25th. I was invited by a Dominican Friar, whom 
 we usually heard preach to a number of Jews, to be 
 god-father to a converted Turk and Jew. The ceremony 
 was performed in the Church of Santa Maria sopra la 
 Minerva, near the Capitol. They were clad in white; 
 then exorcised at their entering the church with abund- 
 ance of ceremonies, and, when led into the choir, were 
 baptized by a Bishop, in pontificalibus. The Turk lived 
 afterwards in Rome, sold hot waters, and would bring us 
 presents when he met us, kneeling and kissing the hems 
 of our cloaks ; but the Jew was believed to be a counter- 
 feit. This church, situated on a spacious rising, was 
 formerly consecrated to Minerva. It was well built and 
 richly adorned, and the body of St. Catharine di Sienna 
 lies buried here. The paintings of the chapel are by 
 Marcello Venuti; the Madonna over the altar is by 
 Giovanni di Fiesole, called the Angelic Painter, who was of 
 the Order of these Monks. There are many charities dealt 
 publicly here, especially at the procession on the Annun- 
 ciation, when I saw his Holiness, with all the Cardinals, 
 Prelates, &c., in pontificalibus ; dowries being given to 300 
 poor girls all clad in white. The Pope had his tiara on 
 his head, and was carried on men's shoulders in an open 
 arm-chair, blessing the people as he passed. The statue 
 of Christ, at the Columna, is esteemed one of the master- 
 pieces of M. Angelo : innumerable are the paintings by 
 the best artists, and the organ is accounted one of the 
 sweetest in Rome. Cardinal Bembo is interred here. We 
 returned by St. Mark's, a stately church, with an excel- 
 lent pavement, and a fine piece by Perugino, of the Two 
 Martyrs. Adjoining to this is a noble palace built by the 
 famous Bramante. 
 
 26th. Ascending the hill, we came to the Forum 
 Trajanum, where his column stands yet entire, wrought 
 with admirable basso-relievo recording the Dacian war, 
 the figures at the upper part appearing of the same 
 proportion with those below. It is ascended by 192 steps, 
 enlightened with 44 apertures, or windows, artificially 
 disposed ; in height from the pedestal 140 feet. 
 
 It had once the ashes of Trajan and his statue, where 
 now stands St. Peter's, of gilt brass, erected by Pope 
 Sextus V. The sculpture of this stupendous pillar is.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 173 
 
 thought to be the work of Apollodorus ; but what is very 
 observable is, the descent to the plinth of the pedestal, 
 showing how this ancient city lies now buried in her ruins ; 
 this monument being at first set up on a rising ground. 
 After dinner, we took the air in Cardinal Bentivoglio's 
 delicious gardens, now but newly deceased. He had a 
 fair palace built by several good masters on part of the 
 ruins of Constantino's Baths : well adorned with columns 
 and paintings, especially those of Guido Rheni. 
 
 27th. In the morning, Mr. Henshaw and myself 
 walked to the Trophies of Marius, erected in honour 
 of his victory over the Cimbrians, but these now taken 
 out of their niches are placed on the balusters of the 
 Capitol, so that their ancient station is now a ruin. 
 Keeping on our way, we came to St. Croce of Jerusalem, 
 built by Constantine over the demolition of the Temple of 
 Venus and Cupid, which he threw down ; and it was here 
 they report he deposited the wood of the true Cross found 
 by his mother, Helena ; in honour whereof this church was 
 built, and in memory of his victory over Maxentius when 
 that holy sign appeared to him. The edifice without 
 is Gothic, but very glorious within, especially the roof, and 
 one tribuna (gallery) well painted. Here is a chapel dedi- 
 cated to St. Helena, the floor whereof is of earth brought 
 from Jerusalem ; the walls are of fair mosaic, in which 
 they suffer no women to enter, save once a year. Under 
 the high altar of the Church is buried St. Anastasius, in 
 Lydian marble, and Benedict VII. ; and they show a 
 number of relics, exposed at our request, with a phial 
 of our blessed Saviour's blood ; two thorns of his crown ; 
 three chips of the real cross ; one of the nails, wanting a 
 point ; St. Thomas's doubting finger ; and a fragment of 
 the title [put on the cross], being part of a thin board; 
 some of Judas' s pieces of silver ; and many more, if one 
 had faith to believe it. To this venerable Church joins a 
 Monastery, the gardens taking up the space of an ancient 
 amphitheatre. 
 
 Hence, we passed beyond the walls out at the Port 
 of St. Laurence, to that Saint's church, and where 
 his ashes are enshrined. This was also built by the 
 same great Constantine, famous for the coronation of 
 Pietro Altissiodorensis, Emperor of Constantinople, by 
 Honorius the Second. It is said the corpse of St.
 
 DIARY OF [HOME, 
 
 Stephen, the proto-martyr, was deposited here by that of 
 St. Sebastian, which it had no sooner touched, but Sebas- 
 tian gave it place of its own accord. The Church has no 
 less than seven privileged altars, and excellent pictures. 
 About the walls are painted this martyr's sufferin gs ; and, when 
 they built them, the bones of divers saints were translated to 
 other churches. The front is Gothic. In our return, we 
 saw a small ruin of an aqueduct built by Quintus Marcius, 
 the praetor; and so passed through that incomparable straight 
 street leading to Santa Maria Maggiore, to our lodging, 
 sufficiently tired. 
 
 We were taken up next morning in seeing the imperti- 
 nences of the Carnival, when all the world are as mad at 
 Home as at other places ; but the most remarkable were the 
 three races of the Barbary horses, that run in the Strada 
 del Corso without riders, only having spurs so placed on 
 their backs, and hanging down by their sides, as by their 
 motion to stimulate them ; then of mares, then of asses, 
 of buffalos, naked men, old and young, and boys, and 
 abundance of idle ridiculous pastime. One thing is 
 remarkable, their acting comedies on a stage placed on 
 a cart, or plaustrum, where the scene, or tiring-place, is 
 made of boughs in a rural manner, which they drive from 
 street to street with a yoke or two of oxen, after the ancient 
 guise. The streets swarm with prostitutes, buffoons, and 
 all manner of rabble. 
 
 1st March. At the Greek Church, \ve saw the Eastern 
 ceremonies performed by a Bishop, &c., in that tongue. 
 Here the unfortunate Duke and Duchess of Bouillon 
 received their ashes, it being the first day of Lent ; there was 
 now as much trudging up and down of devotees, as the day 
 before of licentious people ; all saints alike to appearance. 
 The gardens of Justinian, which we next visited, are very 
 full of statues and antiquities, especially urns; amongst 
 which is that of Minutius Felix ; a terminus that formerly 
 stood in the Appian way, and a huge colosse of the Emperor 
 Justinian. There is a delicate aviary on the hill; the 
 whole gardens furnished with rare collections, fresh, shady, 
 and adorned with noble fountains. Continuing our walk 
 a mile farther, we came to Pons Milvius, now Mela, where 
 Constantine overthrew Maxentius, and saw the miraculous 
 sign of the cross, In hoc signo vinces. It was a sweet 
 morning, and the bushes were full of nightingales. Hence,
 
 1C45.] JOHN EVELYN. 175 
 
 to Aqua Claudia again, an aqueduct finished by that 
 Emperor at the expense of eight millions. In the afternoon, 
 to Farnese's gardens, near the Campo Vaccino ; and upon 
 the Palatine Mount to survey the ruins of Juno's Temple, 
 in the Piscina, a piazza so called near the famous bridge 
 built by Antoninus Pius, and re-edified by Pope Sextus IV. 
 
 The rest of this week, we went to the Vatican, to hear 
 the sermons, at St. Peter's, of the most famous preachers, 
 who discourse on the same subjects and texts yearly, full 
 of Italian eloquence and action. On our Lady-day, 25th 
 March, we saw the Pope and Cardinals ride in pomp to the 
 Minerva, the great guns of the Castle St. Angelo being 
 fired, when he gives portions to 500 zitelle [young women] , 
 who kiss his feet in procession, some destined to marry, 
 some to be nuns ; the scholars of the college celebrating 
 the blessed Virgin with their compositions. The next day, 
 his Holiness was busied in blessing golden roses, to be sent 
 to several great Princes ; the Procurator of the Carmelites 
 preaching on our Saviour's feeding the multitude with five 
 loaves, the ceremony ends. The sacrament being this day 
 exposed, and the relics of the Holy Cross, the concourse 
 about the streets is extraordinary. On Palm-Sunday, 
 there was a great procession, after a papal mass. 
 
 llth April. St. Veronica's handkerchief [with the 
 impression of our Saviour's face] was exposed, and the next 
 day the spear, with a world of ceremony. On Holy Thurs- 
 day, the Pope said mass, and afterwards carried the Host 
 in procession about the chapel, with an infinity of tapers. 
 This finished, his Holiness was carried in his open chair on 
 men's shoulders to the place where, reading the Bull 
 in Ccend Domini, he both curses and blesses all in a breath ; 
 then the guns are again fired. Hence, he went to the 
 Ducal hall of the Vatican, where he washed the feet of 
 twelve poor men, with almost the same ceremony as it is 
 done at Whitehall; they have clothes, a dinner, and alms, 
 which he gives with his own hands, and serves at their 
 table; they have also gold and silver medals, but their 
 garments are of white woollen long robes, as we paint the 
 Apostles. The same ceremonies are done by the Conser- 
 vators and other officers of state at St. John di Lateran ; 
 and now the table on which they say our blessed Lord 
 celebrated his last supper is set out, and the heads of the
 
 176 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 Apostles. In every famous church they are busy in dres- 
 sing up their pageantries to represent the Holy Sepulchre, 
 of which we went to visit divers. 
 
 On Good Friday, we went again to St. Peter's, where 
 the handkerchief, lance, and cross were all exposed, and 
 worshipped together. All the confession-seats were filled 
 with devout people, and at night was a procession of several 
 who most lamentably whipped themselves till the blood 
 stained their clothes, for some had shirts, others upon the 
 bare back, having visors and masks on their faces ; at every 
 three or four steps dashing the knotted and ravelled whip- 
 cord over their shoulders, as hard as they could lay it on ; 
 whilst some of the religious orders and fraternities sung 
 in a dismal tone, the lights and crosses going before, 
 making altogether a horrible and indeed heathenish 
 pomp. 
 
 The next day, there was much ceremony at St. John di 
 Lateran, so as the whole week was spent in running from 
 church to church, all the town in busy devotion, great 
 silence, and unimaginable superstition. 
 
 Easter-day, I was awakened by the guns from St. Angelo: 
 we went to St. Peter's, where the Pope himself celebrated 
 mass, showed the relics before-named, and gave a public 
 Benediction. 
 
 Monday, we went to hear music in the Chiesa Nova, 
 and though there were abundance of ceremonies at the 
 other great churches, and great exposure of relics ; yet 
 being wearied with sights of this nature, and the season of 
 the year, summer, at Rome being very dangerous, by 
 reason of the heats minding us of returning northwards, 
 we spent the rest of our time in visiting such places as we 
 had not yet sufficiently seen ; only I do not forget the 
 Pope's benediction of the Con/alone, or Standard, and 
 giving the hallowed palms ; and, on May-day, the great 
 procession of the University and the muleteers at St. 
 Antony's, and their setting up a foolish May-pole in the 
 Capitol, very ridiculous. We therefore now took coach a 
 little out of town, to visit the famous Roma Soterranea, 
 being much like what we had seen at St. Sebastian's. 
 Here, in a corn-field, guided by two torches, we crept on 
 our bellies into a little hole, about twenty paces, which 
 delivered us into a large entry that led us into several
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 177 
 
 streets, or alleys, a good depth in the bowels of the earth, a 
 strange and fearful passage for divers miles, as Bosio has 
 measured and described them in his book.* We ever and 
 anon came into pretty square rooms, that seemed to be 
 chapels with altars, and some adorned with very ordinary 
 ancient painting. Many skeletons and bodies are placed 
 on the sides one above the other in degrees like shelves, 
 whereof some are shut up with a coarse flat stone, having 
 engraven on them Pro Christo, or a cross and palms, which 
 are supposed to have been martyrs. Here, in all likeli- 
 hood, were the meetings of the primitive Christians during 
 the persecutions, as Pliny the younger describes them. 
 As I was prying about, I found a glass phial, filled (as was 
 conjectured) with dried blood, and two lachrymatories. 
 Many of the bodies, or rather bones (for there appeared 
 nothing else) lay so entire, as if placed by the art of the 
 chirurgeon, but being only touched fell all to dust. Thus, 
 after wandering two or three miles in this subterranean 
 meander, we returned almost blind when we came into the 
 day-light, and even choked by the smoke of the torches. 
 It is said that a French bishop and his retinue adventuring 
 too far in these dens, their lights going out, were never 
 heard of more. 
 
 We were entertained at night with an English play at 
 the Jesuits', where we before had dined ; and the next day 
 at Prince Galicano's, who himself composed the music to 
 a magnificent opera, where were present Cardinal Pam- 
 philio, the Pope's nephew, the Governors of Borne, the 
 cardinals, ambassadors, ladies, and a number of nobility 
 and strangers. There had been in the morning a joust 
 and tournament of several young gentlemen on a formal 
 defy, to which we had been invited ; the prizes being dis- 
 tributed by the ladies, after the knight-errantry way. The 
 lancers and swordsmen running at tilt against the barriers, 
 with a great deal of clatter, but without any bloodshed, 
 giving much diversion to the spectators, and was new to us 
 travellers. 
 
 The next day, Mr. Henshaw and I spent the morning 
 in attending the entrance and cavalcade of Cardinal Medici, 
 the ambassador from the Grand Duke of Florence, by the 
 
 * Intituled, Roma Sotteitfnea, folio, Rom. 1632. 
 VOL. I. N
 
 DIARY OP [ROME, 
 
 Via Flaminia. After dinner, we went again to the Villa 
 Borghese, about a mile without the city; the garden is 
 rather a park, or Paradise, contrived and planted with 
 walks and shades of myrtles, cypress, and other trees, and 
 groves, with abundance of fountains, statues, and bass- 
 relievos, and several pretty murmuring rivulets. Here 
 they had hung large nets to catch woodcocks. There was 
 also a vivary, where, amongst other exotic fowls, was an 
 ostrich ; besides a most capacious aviary ; and, in another 
 inclosed part, a herd of deer. Before the Palace (which 
 might become the court of a great prince) stands a noble 
 fountain, of white marble, enriched with statues. The 
 outer walls of the house are encrusted with excellent 
 antique bass-relievos, of the same marble, incornished with 
 festoons and niches set with statues from the foundation 
 to the roof. A stately portico joins the Palace, full of 
 statues and columns of marble, urns, and other curiosities 
 of sculpture. In the first hall were the Twelve Caesars, of 
 antique marble, and the whole apartments furnished with 
 pictures of the most celebrated masters, and two rare tables 
 of porphyry, of great value. But of this already ; * for I 
 often visited this delicious place. 
 
 This night were glorious fire-works at the Palace of 
 Cardinal Medici before the gate, and lights of several 
 colours all about the windows through the city, which 
 they contrive by setting the candles in little paper lanterns 
 dyed with various colours, placing hundreds of them from 
 story to story ; which renders a gallant show. 
 
 May 4th. Having seen the entry of the ambassador of 
 Lucca, I went to the Vatican, where, by favour of our 
 Cardinal Protector, Fran. Barberini, I was admitted into 
 the consistory, heard the ambassador make his oration in 
 Latin to the Pope, sitting on an elevated state, or throne, 
 and changing two pontifical mitres; after which, I was 
 presented to kiss his toe, that is, his embroidered slipper, 
 two Cardinals holding up his vest and surplice, and then 
 being sufficiently blessed with his thumb and two fingers 
 for that day, I returned home to dinner. 
 
 We went again to see the medals of Signor Gotefredi, 
 which are absolutely the best collection in Rome. 
 
 Passing the Ludovisia Villa, where the petrified human 
 
 * See p. 117.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 179 
 
 figure lies, found on the snowy Alps ; I measured the 
 hydra, and found it not a foot long ; the three necks and 
 fifteen heads seem to be but patched up with several pieces 
 of serpents' skins. 
 
 5th. We took coach, and went fifteen miles out of 
 the city to Frascati, formerly Tusculum, a villa of Cardinal 
 Aldobrandini, built for a country-house ; but surpassing, 
 in my opinion, the most delicious places I ever beheld for 
 its situation, elegance, plentiful water, groves, ascents, and 
 prospects. Just behind the Palace (which is of excellent 
 architecture) in the centre of the enclosure, rises a high 
 hill, or mountain, all over clad with tall wood, and so 
 formed by nature, as if it had been cut out by art, from 
 the summit whereof falls a cascade, seeming rather a great 
 river than a stream precipitating into a large theatre of 
 water, representing an exact and perfect rainbow, when 
 the sun shines out. Under this, is made an artificial grot, 
 wherein are curious rocks, hydraulic organs, and all sorts 
 of singing birds, moving and chirping by force of the 
 water, with several other pageants and surprising inven- 
 tions. In the centre of one of these rooms, rises a copper 
 ball that continually dances about three feet above the 
 pavement, by virtue of a wind conveyed secretly to a hole 
 beneath it with many other devices to wet the unwary 
 spectators, so that one can hardly step without wetting to 
 the skin. In one of these theatres of water, is an Atlas 
 spouting up the stream to a very great height; and 
 another monster makes a terrible roaring with a horn ; 
 but, above all, the representation of a storm is most 
 natural, with such fury of rain, wind and thunder, as one 
 would imagine oneself in some extreme tempest. The 
 garden has excellent walks and shady groves, abundance 
 of rare fruit, oranges, lemons, &c., and the goodly pros- 
 pect of Rome, above all description, so as I do not wonder 
 that Cicero and others have celebrated this place with 
 such encomiums. The Palace is indeed built more like a 
 cabinet than anything composed of stone and mortar ; it 
 has in the middle a hall furnished with excellent marbles 
 and rare pictures, especially those of Gioseppino d'Arpino; 
 the moveables are princely and rich. This was the last 
 piece of architecture finished by Giacomo della Porta, who
 
 130 DIARY OF [TITOLI, 
 
 built it for Pietro Cardinal Aldobrandini, in the time of 
 Clement VIII.* 
 
 We went hence to another house and garden not far 
 distant, on the side of a hill called Mondragone, finished 
 by Cardinal Scipio Borghese, an ample and kingly edifice. 
 It has a very long gallery, and at the end a theatre for 
 pastimes, spacious courts, rare grots, vineyards, olive- 
 grounds, groves, and solitudes. The air is so fresh and 
 sweet, as few parts of Italy exceed it ; nor is it inferior to 
 any palace in the city itself for statues, pictures, and fur- 
 niture ; but, it growing late, we could not take such par- 
 ticular notice of these things as they deserved. 
 
 6th. We rested ourselves; and, next day, in a coach, 
 took our last farewell of visiting the circumjacent places, 
 going to Tivoli, or the old Tiburtum. At about six miles 
 from Rome, we pass the Teverone, a bridge built by Mam- 
 mea, the mother of Severus, and so by divers ancient 
 sepulchres, amongst others that of Valerius Volusi ; and 
 near it pass the stinking sulphureous river over the Ponte 
 Lucano, where we found a heap, or turret, full of inscrip- 
 tions, now called the Tomb of Plautius. Arrived at Tivoli, 
 we went first to see the Palace d'Este, erected on a plain, 
 but where was formerly an hill. The Palace is very ample 
 and stately. In the garden, on the right hand, are sixteen 
 vast conchas of marble, jetting out waters ; in the midst 
 of these stands a Janus quadrifrons, that cast forth four 
 girandolas, called from the resemblance [to a particular 
 exhibition in fire-works so named] the Fontana di Speccho 
 [looking-glass] . Near this is a place for tilting. Before 
 the ascent of the palace is the famous fountain of Leda, 
 and not far from that, four sweet and delicious gardens. 
 Descending thence are two pyramids of water, and in a 
 grove of trees near it the fountains of Tethys, Esculapius, 
 Arethusa, Pandora, Pomona, and Flora; then the pranc- 
 ing Pegasus, Bacchus, the Grot of Venus, the two Colosses 
 of Melicerta and Sibylla Tiburtina, all of exquisite marble, 
 copper, and other suitable adornments. The Cupids 
 pouring out water are especially most rare, and the urns 
 on which are placed the ten nymphs. The grots are richly 
 paved with pietra-commessa, shells, coral, &c. 
 
 * Cardinal Hippolito Aldobrandini was elected Pope in January, 1592, by 
 the name of Clement VIII., and died in March, 1605.
 
 4645.] JOHN EVELYN. 181 
 
 Towards Roma Triumphans, leads a long and spacious 
 walk, full of fountains, under which is historized the whole 
 Ovidian Metamorphosis, in rarely sculptured mezzo relievo. 
 At the end of this, next the wall, is the city of Rome as it 
 was in its beauty, of small models, representing that city, 
 with its amphitheatres; naumachi, thermae, temples, arches, 
 aqueducts, streets, and other magnificences, with a little 
 stream running through it for the Tiber, gushing out of 
 an urn next the statue of the river. In another garden, 
 is a noble aviary, the birds artificial, and singing till an 
 owl appears, on which they suddenly change their notes. 
 Near this is the fountain of Dragons, casting out large 
 streams of water with great noise. In another grotto, 
 called Grotto di Natura, is an hydraulic organ ; and, below 
 this, are divers stews and fish-ponds, in one of which is 
 the statue of Neptune in his chariot on a sea-horse, in 
 another a Triton ; and, lastly, a garden of simples. There 
 are besides in the palace many rare statues and pictures, 
 bedsteads richly inlaid, and sundry other precious move- 
 ables : the whole is said to have cost the best part of a 
 million. 
 
 Having gratified our curiosity with these artificial 
 miracles, and dined, we went to see the so famous natural 
 precipice and cascade of the river Anio, rushing down 
 from the mountains of Tivoli with that fury that, what 
 with the mist it perpetually casts up by the breaking of 
 the water against the rocks, and what with the sun shining 
 on it and forming a natural Iris, and the prodigious depth 
 of the gulf below, it is enough to astonish one that looks 
 on it. Upon the summit of this rock stand the ruins and 
 some pillars and cornices of the Temple of Sibylla Tybur- 
 tina, or Albunea, a round fabric, still discovering some of 
 its pristine beauty. Here was a great deal of gunpowder 
 drying in the sun, and a little beneath, mills belonging to 
 the Pope. 
 
 And now we returned to Rome. By the way, we were 
 showed, at some distance, the city Praeneste, and the 
 Hadrian villa, now only a heap of ruins ; and so came 
 late to our lodging. 
 
 We now determined to desist from visiting any more 
 curiosities, except what should happen to come in our 
 way, when my companion, Mr. Henshaw, or myself should
 
 182 DIARY OF [ROME, 
 
 go to take the air ; only I may not omit that one after- 
 noon, diverting ourselves in the Piazza Navona, a mounte- 
 bank there to allure curious strangers, taking off a ring 
 from his finger, which seemed set with a dull, dark stone, 
 a little swelling out, like what we call (though untruly) a 
 toadstone, and wetting his finger a little in his mouth and 
 then touching it, it emitted a luculent flame as bright and 
 large as a small wax candle ; then, blowing it out, repeated 
 this several times. I have much regretted that I did not 
 purchase the receipt of him for making that composition 
 at what price soever ; for though there is a process in Jo. 
 Baptista Porta and others how to do it, yet on several 
 trials they none of them have succeeded. 
 
 Amongst other observations I made in Rome are these : 
 as to coins and medals, ten asses make the Roman dena- 
 rius, five the quinarius, ten denarii an aureus ; which 
 accompt runs almost exactly with what is now in use of 
 quatrini, baiocs, julios, and scudi, each exceeding the other 
 in the proportion of ten. The sestertius was a small silver 
 coin marked H. s. or rather LL S , valued two 'pounds and a 
 half of silver, viz. 250 denarii, about twenty-five golden 
 ducati. The stamp of the Roman denarius varied, having 
 sometimes a Janus bifrons, the head of Roma armed, or 
 with a chariot and two horses, which were called bigi ; if 
 with four, quadrigi ; if with a Victoria, so named. The 
 mark of the denarius was distinguished >\^ thus, or X ; 
 the quinarius of half value, had, on one side, the head of 
 Rome and V; the reverse, Castor and Pollux on horseback, 
 inscribed Roma, &c. 
 
 I observed that in the Greek church they made the 
 sign of the cross from the right hand to the left ; contrary 
 to the Latins and the schismatic Greeks ; gave the bene- 
 diction with the first, second, and little finger stretched 
 out, retaining the third bent down, expressing a distance 
 of the third Person of the Holy Trinity from the first two. 
 
 For sculptors and architects, we found Bernini and 
 Algardi were in the greatest esteem; Fiamingo, as a 
 statuary, who made the Andrea in St. Peter's, and is said 
 to have died mad because it was placed in an ill light. 
 Amongst the painters, Antonio de la Cornea, who has 
 such an address of counterfeiting the hands of the ancient 
 masters so well as to make his copies pass for originals ;
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 183 
 
 Pietro de Cortone, Monsieur Poussin, a Frenchman, and 
 innumerable more. Fioravanti, for armour, plate, dead 
 life, tapestry, &c. The chief masters of music, after Marc 
 Antonio, the best treble, is Cavalier Lauretto, an eunuch ; 
 the next Cardinal Bichi's eunuch, Bianchi, tenor, and 
 Nicholai, base. The Jews in Rome wore red hats, till the 
 Cardinal of Lyons, being short-sighted, lately saluted one 
 of them, thinking him to be a Cardinal as he passed by 
 his coach; on which an order was made, that they should 
 use only the yellow colour. There was now at Rome one 
 Mrs. Ward, an English devotee, who much solicited for an 
 order of Jesuitesses. 
 
 At executions I saw one, a gentleman, hanged in his 
 cloak and hat for murder. They struck the malefactor 
 with a club that first stunned him, and then cut his throat. 
 At Naples, they use a frame, like ours at Halifax (a 
 guillotine). 
 
 It is reported that Rome has been once no less than 
 fifty miles in compass, now not thirteen, containing in it 
 3000 churches and chapels, monasteries, &c. It is divided 
 into fourteen regions, or wards ; has seven mountains, and 
 as many campi, or valleys; in these are fair parks, or 
 gardens, called villas, being only places of recess and 
 pleasure, at some distance from the streets, yet within the 
 walls. 
 
 The bills of exchange I took up from my first entering 
 Italy till I went from Rome, amounted but to 616 ducati 
 di banco, though I purchased many books, pictures, and 
 curiosities. 
 
 18th. I intended to have seen Loretto, but, being 
 disappointed of monies long expected, I was forced to 
 return by the same way I came, desiring, if possible, to be 
 at Venice by the Ascension, and therefore I diverted to 
 take Leghorn in the way, as well to furnish me with credit 
 by a merchant there, as to take order for transporting 
 such collections as I had made at Rome. When on my 
 way, turning about to behold this once and yet glorious 
 city, from an eminence, I did not, without some regret, 
 give it my last farewell. 
 
 Having taken leave of our friends at Rome, where I had 
 sojourned now about seven months, autumn, winter, and 
 spring, I took coach, in company with two courteous Italian
 
 184 DIARY OF [SIENNA, 
 
 gentlemen. In the afternoon, we arrived at a house, or 
 rather castle, belonging to the Duke of Parma, called 
 Caprarola,* situate on the brow of a hill, that overlooks a 
 little town, or rather a natural and stupendous rock ; wit- 
 ness those vast caves serving now for cellarage, where we 
 were entertained with most generous wine of several sorts, 
 being just under the foundation. The Palace was built by 
 the famous architect, Vignola, at the cost of Cardinal Alex. 
 Farnese, in form of an octagon, the court in the middle 
 being exactly round, so as rather to resemble a fort, or 
 castle ; yet the chambers within are all of them square, 
 which makes the walls exceedingly thick. One of these 
 rooms is so artificially contrived, that from the two opposite 
 angles may be heard the least whisper; they say any 
 perfect square does it. Most of the paintings are by 
 Zuccari. It has a stately entry, on which spouts an arti- 
 ficial fountain within the porch. The hall, chapel, and 
 great number of lodging chambers are remarkable ; but 
 most of all the pictures and witty inventions of Hannibal 
 Caracci; the Dead Christ is incomparable. Behind are 
 the gardens full of statues and noble fountains, especially 
 that of the Shepherds. After dinner, we took horse, and 
 lay that night at Monte Kossi, twenty miles from Rome. 
 
 19th. We dined at Viterbo, and lay at St. Lau- 
 renzo. Next day, at Kadicofani, and slept at Turnera. 
 
 21st. We dined at Sienna, where we could not pass 
 admiring the great church f built entirely both within and 
 without with white and black marble in polished squares, 
 by Macarino, showing so beautiful after a shower has 
 fallen. The floor within is of various coloured marbles, 
 representing the story of both Testaments, admirably 
 wrought. Here lies Pius the Second. The biblioteca is 
 painted by P. Perrugino and Eaphael. The life of ^Eneas 
 Sylvius is in fresco ; in the middle are the Three Graces, 
 in antique marble, very curious, and the front of this 
 building, though Gothic, is yet very fine. Amongst other 
 things, they show St. Catharine's disciplining cell, the 
 door whereof is half cut out into chips by the pilgrims and 
 devotees, being of deal wood. 
 
 Caprarola. There is a large descriptive account published of this Palace, 
 with magnificent plates of the buildings, pictures, and statues, 
 t See p. 97.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 185 
 
 Setting out hence for Pisa, we went again to see the 
 Duomo in which the Emperor Henry VII. lies buried, 
 poisoned by a monk in the Eucharist. The bending tower 
 was built by Busqueto Delichio, a Grecian architect, and 
 is a stupendous piece of art.* In the gallery of curiosities 
 is a fair mummy ; the tail of a sea-horse : coral growing 
 on a man's skull ; a chariot automaton ; two pieces of rock 
 crystal, in one of which is a drop of water, in the other 
 three or four small worms ; two embalmed children ; divers 
 petrifactions, &c. The garden of simples is well furnished, 
 and has in it the deadly yew, or taxus, of the ancients ; 
 which Dr. Belluccio, the superintendant, affirms that his 
 workmen cannot endure to clip for above the space of half 
 an hour at a time, from the pain of the head which sur- 
 prises them. 
 
 We went hence for Leghorn, by coach, where I took 
 up ninety crowns for the rest of my journey, with letters 
 of credit for Venice, after I had sufficiently complained of 
 my defeat of correspondence at Rome. 
 
 The next day, I came to Lucca, a small but pretty ter- 
 ritory and state of itself. The city is neat and well- 
 fortified, with noble and pleasant walks of trees on the 
 works, where the gentry and ladies use to take the air. It 
 is situate on an ample plain by the river Serchio, yet the 
 country about it is hilly. The Senate-house is magni- 
 ficent. The church of St. Michael is a noble piece, as is 
 also St. Fredian, more remarkable to us for the corpse of 
 St. Richard, an English king,f who died here in his pilgrim- 
 age towards Rome. This epitaph is on his tomb : 
 
 Hie rex Richardus requiescit, sceptifer, almus : 
 Rex fuit Anglorum ; regnum tenet iste Polorum. 
 Regnum demisit ; pro Christo cuncta reliquit. 
 Ergo, Richardum nobis dedit Anglia sanctum. 
 Hie genitor Sanctse Wulburgse Virginis almae 
 Est Vrillebaldi sancti simul et Vinebaldi, 
 Suffragium quorum nobis det regna Polorum. 
 
 Next this, we visited St. Croce, an excellent structure 
 all of marble both without and within, and so adorned as 
 may vie with many of the fairest even in Rome ; witness 
 the huge cross, valued at 15,000, above all venerable for 
 
 * See pp. 89, 92, for other hanging towers at Pisa and Florence. 
 ( Who this Richard King of England was, it is impossible to say ; the tomb 
 still exists, and has long been a crux to antiquaries and travellers. EDITOR.
 
 186 DIARY OP [PISTOIA, 
 
 that sacred volto which (as tradition goes) was miracu- 
 lously put on the image of Christ, and made by Nicodemus, 
 whilst the artist, finishing the rest of the body, was medi- 
 tating what face to set on it. The inhabitants are 
 exceedingly civil to strangers, above all places in Italy, 
 and they speak the purest Italian. It is also cheap living, 
 which causes travellers to set up their rest here more than 
 in Florence, though a more celebrated city; besides, the 
 ladies here are very conversable, and the religious women 
 not at all reserved ; of these we bought gloves and em- 
 broidered stomachers, generally worn by gentlemen in 
 these countries. The circuit of this state is but two easy 
 days' journey, and lies mixed with the Duke of Tuscany' s, 
 but having Spain for a protector (though the least bigoted 
 of all Roman Catholics), and being one of the fortified 
 cities in Italy, it remains in peace. The whole country 
 abounds in excellent olives, &c. 
 
 Going hence for Florence, we dined at Pistoia, where, 
 besides one church, there was little observable : only in 
 the highway we crossed a rivulet of salt water, though 
 many miles from the sea. The country is extremely 
 pleasant, full of gardens, and the roads straight as a line 
 for the best part of that whole day, the hedges planted 
 with trees at equal distances, watered with clear and 
 plentiful streams. 
 
 Rising early the next morning, we alighted at Poggio 
 Imperiale, being a Palace of the Great Duke, not far from 
 the city, having omitted it in my passage to Rome. The 
 ascent to the house is by a stately gallery as it were of 
 tall and overgrown cypress trees for near half a mile. At 
 the entrance of these ranges, are placed statues of the 
 Tyber and Arno, of marble ; those also of Virgil, Ovid, 
 Petrarch, and Dante. The building is sumptuous, and 
 curiously furnished within with cabinets of pietra-com- 
 messa in tables, pavements, &c., which is a magnificence, 
 or work, particularly affected at Florence. The pictures 
 are, Adam and Eve by Albert Durer, very excellent ; as is 
 that piece of carving in wood by the same hand standing 
 in a cupboard. Here is painted the whole Austrian line ; 
 the Duke's mother, sister to the Emperor, the foundress 
 of this palace, than which there is none in Italy that I had 
 seen more magnificently adorned, or furnished.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 We could not omit in our passage to re-visit the same, 
 and other curiosities which we had neglected on our first 
 being at Florence. We went, therefore, to see the famous 
 piece of Andrea del Sarto, in the Annunciata ; the story is, 
 that the painter in a time of dearth borrowed a sack of 
 corn of the religious of that convent, and re-payment being 
 demanded, he wrought it out in this picture, which repre- 
 sents Joseph sitting on a sack of corn and reading to the 
 Blessed Virgin ; a piece infinitely valued. There fell down 
 in the cloister an old man's face painted on the wall in 
 fresco, greatly esteemed, and brake into crumbs; the 
 Duke sent his best painters to make another instead of it, 
 but none of them would presume to touch a pencil where 
 Andrea had wrought, like another Apelles; but one of 
 them was so industrious and patient, that, picking up the 
 fragments, he laid and fastened them so artificially toge- 
 ther, that the injury it had received was hardly discern- 
 ible. Andrea del Sarto lies buried in the same place. 
 Here is also that picture of Bartolomeo, who having 
 spent his utmost skill in the face of the angel Gabriel, and 
 being troubled that he could not exceed it in the Virgin, 
 he began the body and to finish the clothes, and so left it, 
 minding in the morning to work on the face ; but, when 
 he came, no sooner had he drawn away the cloth that was 
 hung before it to preserve it from the dust, than an admir- 
 able and ravishing face was found ready painted ; at which 
 miracle all the city came in to worship ; it is now kept in 
 the chapel of the Salutation, a place so enriched by the 
 devotees, that none in Italy, save Loretto, is said to exceed 
 it. This picture is always covered with three shutters, one 
 of which is of massy silver ; methinks it is very brown, the 
 forehead and cheeks whiter, as if it had been scraped. 
 They report that those who have the honour of seeing it 
 never lose their sight happy then we! Belonging to 
 this church is a world of plate, some whole statues of it, 
 and lamps innumerable, besides the costly vows hung up, 
 some of gold, and a cabinet of precious stones. 
 
 Visiting the Duke's repository again, we told at least 
 forty ranks of porphyry and other statues, and twenty- 
 eight whole figures, many rare paintings and relievos, two 
 square columns with trophies. In one of the galleries, 
 twenty-four figures, and fifty antique heads ; a Bacchus of
 
 188 DIARY OF [FLORENCB, 
 
 M. Angelo, and one of Bandinelli ; a head of Bernini, and 
 a most lovely Cupid, of Parian marble ; at the further end, 
 two admirable women sitting, and a man fighting with a 
 centaur ; three figures in little of Andrea : a huge candle- 
 stick of amber ; a table of Titian's painting, and another 
 representing God the Father sitting in the air on the 
 Four Evangelists ; animals ; divers smaller pieces of Ra- 
 phael ; a piece of pure virgin gold, as big as an egg. In 
 the third chamber of rarities is the square cabinet, valued 
 at 80,000 crowns, showing, on every front, a variety of 
 curious work ; one of birds and flowers, of pietra-comessa ; 
 one, a descent from the cross, of M. Angelo ; on the third, 
 our Blessed Saviour and the Apostles, of amber ; and, on 
 the fourth, a crucifix of the same. Betwixt the pictures, 
 two naked Venuses, by Titian ; Adam and Eve, by Durer ; 
 and several pieces of Pordenone, and del Frate. There is 
 aj globe of six feet diameter. In the Armoury, were an 
 entire elk, a crocodile, and, amongst the harness, several 
 targets and antique horse-arms, as that of Charles V.; 
 two set with turquoises, and other precious stones; a 
 horse's tail, of a wonderful length. Then, passing the Old 
 Palace, which has a very great hall for feasts and come- 
 dies, the roof rarely painted, and the side-walls with six 
 very large pictures representing battles, the work of Gio. 
 Vassari. Here is a magazine full of plate ; a harness of 
 emeralds ; the furnitures of an altar four feet high, and six 
 in length, of massy gold; in the middle, is placed the 
 statue of Cosmo II.; the bass-relievo is of precious stones, 
 his breeches covered with diamonds; the mouldings of 
 this statue, and other ornaments, festoons, &c. are gar- 
 nished with jewels and great pearls, dedicated to St. 
 Charles, with this inscription, in rubies : 
 
 Cosimus Secundus Dei gratia Magnus Dux Etrurise ex voto. 
 
 There is also a King on horseback, of massy gold, two feet 
 high, and an infinity of such like rarities. Looking at the 
 Justice, in copper, set up on a column by Cosmo, in 1555, 
 after the victory over Sienna, we were told that the Duke, 
 asking a gentleman how he liked the piece, he answered, 
 that he liked it very well, but that it stood too high for 
 poor men to come at it. 
 
 Prince Leopold has, in this city, a very excellent collec-
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 189 
 
 tion of paintings, especially a St. Catharine of P. Veronese; 
 a Venus of marble, veiled from the middle to the feet, 
 esteemed to be of that Greek workman who made the 
 Venus at the Medicis' Palace in Rome, altogether as good, 
 and better preserved, an inestimable statue, not long since 
 found about Bologna. 
 
 Signer Gaddi is a lettered person, and has divers rarities, 
 statues, and pictures of the best masters, and one bust of 
 marble as much esteemed as the most antique in Italy, and 
 many curious manuscripts ; his best paintings are, a Virgin 
 of del Sarto, mentioned by Vassari, a St. John by Raphael, 
 and an Ecce Homo, by Titian. 
 
 The hall of the Academy de la Crusca is hung about 
 with impresses and devices painted, all of them relating 
 to corn sifted from the bran ; the seats are made like bread- 
 baskets and other rustic instruments used about wheat, and 
 the cushions of satin, like sacks. 
 
 We took our farewell of St. Laurence, more particularly 
 noticing that piece of the Resurrection, which consists of 
 a prodigious number of naked figures, the work of Pon- 
 tormo. On the left hand, is the Martyrdom of St. Lau- 
 rence, by Bronzino, rarely painted indeed. In a chapel is 
 the tomb of Pietro di Medici, and his brother John, of 
 copper, excellently designed, standing on two lions' feet, 
 which end in foliage, the work of M. Angelo. Over against 
 this, are sepulchres of all the ducal family. The altar has 
 a statue of the Virgin giving suck, and two Apostles. 
 Paulus Jovius has the honour to be buried in the cloister. 
 Behind the choir is the superb chapel of Ferdinand I., 
 consisting of eight faces, four plain, four a little hollowed; 
 in the other are to be the sepulchres, and a niche of paragon, 
 for the statue of the Prince now living, all of copper gilt ; 
 above, is a large table of porphyry, for an inscription for the 
 Duke, in letters of jasper. The whole chapel, walls, pave- 
 ment, and roof, are full of precious stones united with the 
 mouldings, which are also of gilded copper, and so are the 
 bases and capitals of the columns. The tabernacle, with 
 the whole altar, is inlaid with cornelians, lazuli, serpentine, 
 agates, onyxes, &c. On the other side, are six very large 
 columns of rock crystal, eight figures of precious stones of 
 several colours, inlaid in natural figures, not inferior to the 
 best paintings, amongst which are many pearls, diamonds,
 
 190 DIARY OF [FLORENCE, 
 
 amethysts, topazes, sumptuous and sparkling beyond de- 
 scription. The windows without side are of white marble. 
 The library is the architecture of Raphael ; before the port 
 is a square vestibule of excellent art, of all the orders, 
 without confusion ; the ascent to it from the library is 
 excellent. "We numbered eighty-eight shelves, all MSS. 
 and bound in red, chained; in all about 3500 volumes, 
 as they told us. 
 
 The Arsenal has sufficient to arm 70,000 men, accurately 
 preserved and kept, with divers lusty pieces of ordnance, 
 whereof one is for a ball of 300 pounds weight, and another 
 for 160, which weighs 72,500 pounds. 
 
 When I was at Florence, the celebrated masters were, 
 for pietra-commessa (a kind of mosaic, or inlaying, of va- 
 rious coloured marble, and other more precious stones) 
 Dominico Benetti, and Mazzotti: the best statuary, Vin- 
 centio Brochi. This statuary makes those small figures in 
 plaster and pasteboard, which so resemble copper that, till 
 one handles them, they cannot be distinguished, lie has so 
 rare an art of bronzing them ; I bought four of him : the 
 best painter, Pietro Beretino di Cortona. 
 
 This Duke has a daily tribute for every courtezan, or 
 prostitute, allowed to practise that infamous trade in his 
 dominions, and so has his Holiness the Pope, but not so 
 much in value. 
 
 Taking leave of our two jolly companions, Signor Gio- 
 vanni and his fellow, we took horses for Bologna; and, by 
 the way, alighted at a villa of the Grand Duke's, called 
 Pratolino. The house is a square of four pavilions, with a 
 fair platform about it, balustred with stone, situate in a 
 large meadow, ascending like an amphitheatre, having at 
 the bottom a huge rock, with water running in a small 
 channel, like a cascade ; on the other side, are the gardens. 
 The whole place seems consecrated to pleasure and summer 
 retirement. The inside of the Palace may compare with 
 any in Italy for furniture of tapestry, beds, &c., and the 
 gardens are delicious, and full of fountains. In the grove 
 sits Pan feeding his flock, the water making a melodious 
 sound through his pipe ; and a Hercules, whose club yields 
 a shower of water, which, falling into a great shell, has a 
 naked woman riding on the backs of dolphins. In another 
 grotto, is Vulcan and his family, the walls richly composed
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 191 
 
 of corals, shells, copper, and marble figures, with the hunt- 
 ing of several beasts, moving by the force of water. Here, 
 having been well washed for our curiosity, we went down 
 a large walk, at the sides whereof several slender streams 
 of water gush out of pipes concealed underneath, that 
 interchangeably fall into each other's channels, making a 
 lofty and perfect arch, so that a man on horseback may 
 ride under it, and not receive one drop of wet. This 
 canopy, or arch of water, I thought one of the most sur- 
 prising magnificences I had ever seen, and very refreshing 
 in the heat of the summer. At the end of this very long 
 walk, stands a woman in white marble, in posture of a 
 laundress wringing water out of a piece of linen, very 
 naturally formed, into a vast laver, the work and invention 
 of M. Angelo Buonarotti. Hence, we ascended Mount 
 Parnassus, where the Muses played to us on hydraulic 
 organs. Near this is a great aviary. All these waters 
 came from the rock in the garden, on which is the statue 
 of a giant representing the Apennines, at the foot of which 
 stands this villa. Last of all, we came to the labyrinth, in 
 which a huge colosse of Jupiter throws out a stream over 
 the garden. This is fifty feet in height, having in his body 
 a square chamber, his eyes and mouth serving for windows 
 and door. 
 
 We took horse and supped that night at II Ponte, 
 passing a dreadful ridge of the Apennines, in many places 
 capped with snow, which covers them the whole summer. 
 We then descended into a luxurious and rich plain. The 
 next day, we passed through Scarperia, mounting the 
 hills again, where the passage is so straight and precipitous 
 towards the right hand, that we climbed them with much 
 care and danger ; lodging at Firenzuolo, which is a fort 
 built amongst the rocks, and defending the confines of the 
 Great Duke's territories. 
 
 The next day, we passed by the Pietramala, a burning 
 mountain. At the summit of this prodigious mass of 
 hills, we had an unpleasant way to Pianura, where we slept 
 that night and were entertained with excellent wine. Hence 
 to Scargalasino, and to bed at Loiano. This plain begins 
 about six miles from Bologna. 
 
 Bologna belongs to the Pope, and is a famous Univer- 
 sity, situate in one of the richest spots of Europe for all
 
 192 DIABY OF [BOLOGNA, 
 
 sorts of provisions. It is built like a ship, whereof the 
 Torre (TAsinelli may go for the mainmast. The city is of 
 no great strength, having a trifling wall about it, in circuit 
 near five miles, and two in length. This Torre d'Asinelli, 
 ascended by 447 steps of a foot rise, seems exceedingly 
 high, is very narrow, and the more conspicuous from 
 another tower called Garisendi, so artificially built of brick, 
 (which increases the wonder) that it seems ready to fall : 
 it is not now so high as the other ; but they say the upper 
 part was formerly taken down for fear it should really fall, 
 and do mischief. 
 
 Next, we went to see an imperfect church, called 
 St. Petronius, showing the intent of the founder, had he 
 gone on. From this, our guide led us to the schools, 
 which indeed are very magnificent. Thence to St. Domi- 
 nic' s, where that saint's body lies richly enshrined. The 
 stalls, or seats, of this goodly church have the history of 
 the Bible inlaid with several woods, very curiously done, 
 the work of one Fr. Damiano di Bergamo, and a friar of 
 that order. Amongst other relics, they show the two 
 books of Esdras, written with his own hand. Here lie 
 buried Jac. Andreas, and divers other learned persons. To 
 the church joins the convent, in the quadrangle whereof 
 are old cypresses, said to have been planted by their saint. 
 
 Then, we went to the Palace of the Legate, a fair brick 
 building, as are most of the houses and buildings, full of 
 excellent carving and mouldings, so as nothing in stone 
 seems to be better finished, or more ornamental ; witness 
 those excellent columns to be seen in many of their 
 churches, convents, and public buildings; for the whole 
 town is so cloistered, that one may pass from house to 
 house through the streets without being exposed either to 
 rain, or sun. 
 
 Before the stately hall of this Palace stands the statue 
 of Paul IV. and divers others; also the monument of 
 the coronation of Charles V. The piazza before it is the 
 most stately in Italy, St. Mark's at Venice only excepted. 
 In the centre of it is a fountain of Neptune, a noble figure 
 in copper. Here I saw a Persian walking about in a rich 
 vest of cloth of tissue, and several other ornaments, 
 according to the fashion of his country, which much pleased 
 me ; he was a young handsome person, of the most stately 
 mien.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 193 
 
 I would fain have seen the library of St. Saviour, 
 famous for the number of rare manuscripts ; but could not, 
 so we went to St. Francis, a glorious pile, and exceedingly 
 adorned within. 
 
 After dinner, I enquired out a priest and Dr. Montalbano, 
 to whom I brought recommendations from Rome; this 
 learned person invented, or found out, the composition of 
 the lapis illuminabilis, or phosphorus. He showed me their 
 property (for he had several), being to retain the light of 
 the sun for some competent time, by a kind of imbibition, 
 by a particular way of calcination. Some of these pre- 
 sented a blue colour, like the flame of brimstone, others 
 like coals of a kitchen-fire. The rest of the afternoon was 
 taken up in St. Michael in Bosco, built on a steep hill on 
 the edge of the city, for its fabric, pleasant shade and 
 groves, cellars, dormitory, and prospects, one of the most 
 delicious retirements I ever saw ; art and nature contend- 
 ing which shall exceed ; so as till now I never envied the life 
 of a friar. The whole town and country to a vast extent 
 are under command of their eyes, almost as far as Venice 
 itself. In this convent there are many excellent paint- 
 ings of Guido Reni ; above all, the little cloister of eight 
 faces, painted by Caracci in fresco. The carvings in wood, 
 in the sacristy, are admirable, as is the inlaid work about 
 the chapel, which even emulates the best paintings ; the 
 work is so delicate and tender. The paintings of the 
 Saviour are of Caracci and Leonardo, and there are excel- 
 lent things of Raphael which we could not see. 
 
 In the Church of St. John is a fine piece of St. Cecilia, 
 by Raphael. As to other paintings, there is in the Church 
 of St. Gregory an excellent picture of a Bishop giving the 
 habit of St. Bernard to an armed soldier, with several 
 other figures in the piecCj the work of Guerchino. Indeed, 
 this city is full of rare pieces, especially of Guido, 
 Domenico, and a virgin named Isabella Sirani, now living, 
 who has painted many excellent pieces, and imitates Guido 
 so well, that many skilful artists have been deceived. 
 
 At the Mendicants are the Miracles of St. Eloy, by 
 
 Reni, after the manner of Caravaggio, but better; and 
 
 here they showed us that famous piece of Christ calling 
 
 St. Matthew, by Annibal Caracci. The Marquis Magniani 
 
 VOL. i. o
 
 194 
 
 DIARY OF 
 
 [BOLOGNA, 
 
 has the whole frieze of his hall painted in fresco by the 
 same hand. 
 
 Many of the religious men nourish those lap-dogs which 
 the ladies are so fond of, and which they here sell. They 
 are a pigmy sort of spaniels, whose noses they break when 
 puppies ; which, in my opinion, deforms them. 
 
 At the end of the turning in one of the wings of the 
 dormitory of St. Michael, I found a paper pasted near the 
 window, containing the dimensions of most of the famous 
 churches in Italy compared with their towers here, and the 
 length of this gallery, a copy whereof I took. 
 
 St. Pietro di Roma, longo 
 Cupola del muro, alta 
 Torre d'Asinello, alto 
 Dormitorio de St. Mich, a 
 Bologn. longo. . . 
 
 Braccia.* 
 
 Piedi diBolognia. 
 
 Canna di 
 Roma. 
 
 284 
 210 
 208 
 
 254 
 
 473 
 350 
 
 348 
 
 423 
 
 84 
 60 
 59pr. mi 6 
 
 724- 
 
 From hence, being brought to a subterranean territory 
 of cellars, the courteous friars made us taste a variety of 
 excellent wines ; and so we departed to our inn. 
 
 This city is famous also for sausages ; and here is sold 
 great quantities of Parmegiano cheese, with Botargo,. 
 Caviare, &c. which makes some of their shops perfume the 
 streets with no agreeable smell. We furnished ourselves 
 with wash-balls, the best being made here, and being a 
 considerable commodity. This place has also been cele- 
 brated for lutes made by the old masters, Mollen, Hans 
 Prey, and Nicholas Sconvelt, which were of extraordinary 
 price; the workmen were chiefly Germans. The cattle 
 used for draught in this country (which is very rich and 
 fertile, especially in pasturage) are covered with housings 
 of linen fringed at the bottom, that dangle about them, 
 preserving them from flies, which in summer are very 
 troublesome. 
 
 From this pleasant city, we proceeded towards Ferrara, 
 carrying with us a bulletino, or bill of health (customary 
 in all these parts of Italy, especially in the State of Venice), 
 and so put ourselves into a boat that was towed with 
 
 A measure of half an ell.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 195 
 
 horses, often interrupted by the sluices, (inventions there 
 to raise the water for the use of mills, and to fill the 
 artificial canals) at every of which we stayed till passage 
 was made. "We went by the Castle Bentivoglio, and, 
 about night, arrived at an ugly inn called Mai Albergo, 
 agreeable to its name, whence, after we had supped, we 
 embarked and passed that night through the Fens, where 
 we were so pestered with those flying glow-worms, called 
 Luccioli, that one who had never heard of them, would 
 think the country full of sparks of fire ; beating some of 
 them down, and applying them to a book, I could read in 
 the dark by the light they afforded. 
 
 Quitting our boat, we took coach, and by morning got 
 to Ferrara, where, before we could gain entrance, our 
 guns and arms were taken from us of custom, the lock 
 being taken off before, as we were advised. The city is in 
 a low marshy country, and therefore well fortified. The 
 houses and streets have nothing of beauty, except the 
 palace and church of St. Benedict, where Ariosto lies 
 buried ; and there are some good statues, the palazzo del 
 Diamante, citadel, church of St. Dominico. The market- 
 place is very spacious, having in its centre the figure of 
 Nicholao Olao, once Duke of Ferrara, on horseback, in 
 copper. It is, in a word, a dirty town, and, though the 
 streets be large, they remain ill paved; yet it is a 
 University, and now belongs to the Pope. Though there 
 are not many fine houses in the city, the inn where we 
 lodged was a very noble palace, having an Angel for its 
 sign. 
 
 We parted from hence about three in the afternoon, and 
 went some of our way on the canal, and then embarked on 
 the Po, or Padus, by the poets called Eridanus, where they 
 feign Phseton to have fallen after his rash attempt, and 
 where lo was metamorphosed into a cow. There was in 
 our company, amongst others, a Polonian Bishop, who was 
 exceeding civil to me in this passage, and afterwards did me 
 many kindnesses at Venice. We supped this night at a place 
 called Corbua, near the ruins of the ancient city, Adria, 
 which gives name to the Gulf, or Sea. After three miles, 
 having passed thirty on the Po, we embarked in a stout 
 vessel, and through an artificial canal, very straight, we 
 entered the Adige, which carried us by break of day into 
 
 o2
 
 196 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 the Adriatic, and so sailing prosperously by Chioza (a town 
 upon an island in this sea,) and Palestina, we came over 
 against Malamocco (the chief port and anchorage where 
 our English merchantmen lie that trade to Venice) about 
 seven at night, after we had stayed at least two hours for 
 permission to land, our bill of health being delivered, 
 according to custom. So soon as we came on shore, we 
 were conducted to the Dogana, where our portmanteaus 
 were visited, and then we got to our lodging, which was at 
 honest Signer Paulo Rhodomante's at the Black Eagle, 
 near the Rialto, one of the best quarters of the town. 
 This journey from Rome to Venice cost me seven pistoles, 
 and thirteen julios. 
 
 June. The next morning, finding myself extremely 
 weary and beaten with my journey, I went to one of their 
 bagnios, where you are treated after the eastern manner, 
 washing with hot and cold water, with oils, and being 
 rubbed with a kind of strigil of seaVs-skin, put on the 
 operator's hand like a glove. This bath did so open my 
 pores, that it cost me one of the greatest colds I ever had 
 in my life, for want of necessary caution in keeping myself 
 warm for some time after ; for, coming out, I immediately 
 began to visit the famous places of the city ; and travellers 
 who come into Italy do nothing but run up and down to 
 see sights, and this city well deserved our admiration, being 
 the most wonderfully placed of any in the world, built on 
 so many hundred islands, in the very sea, and at good dis- 
 tance from the continent. It has no fresh water, except 
 what is reserved in cisterns from rain, and such as is 
 daily brought from terra firma in boats, yet there was no 
 want of it, and all sorts of excellent provisions were very 
 cheap. 
 
 It is said that when the Huns over-ran Italy some mean 
 fishermen and others left the main land, and fled for shelter 
 to these despicable and muddy islands, which, in process of 
 time, by industry, are grown to the greatness of one of the 
 most considerable States, considered as a Republic, and 
 having now subsisted longer than any of the four ancient 
 Monarchies, flourishing in great state, wealth, and glory, 
 by the conquest of great territories in Italy, Dacia, Greece, 
 Candia, Rhodes, and Sclavonia, and at present challenging 
 the empire of all the Adriatic Sea, which they yearly
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 197 
 
 espouse by casting a gold ring into it with great pomp and 
 ceremony, on Ascension-day ; the desire of seeing this, was 
 one of the reasons that hastened us from Rome. 
 
 The Doge, having heard mass in his robes of state (which 
 are very particular, after the eastern fashion), together 
 with the Senate in their gowns, embarked in their glori- 
 ously painted, carved, and gilded Bucentora, environed and 
 followed by innumerable galleys, gondolas, and boats, filled 
 with spectators, some dressed in masquerade, trumpets, 
 music, and cannons. Having rowed about a league into the 
 Gulf, the Duke, at the prow, casts a gold ring and cup into 
 the sea, at which a loud acclamation is echoed from the 
 great guns of the Arsenal, and at the Liddo. We then 
 returned. 
 
 Two days after, taking a gondola, which is their water- 
 coach (for land ones there are many old men in this city 
 who never saw one, or rarely a horse), we rowed up and 
 down the channels, which answer to our streets. These ves- 
 sels are built very long and narrow, having necks and tails of 
 steel, somewhat spreading at the beak like a fish's tail, and 
 kept so exceedingly polished as to give a great lustre ; 
 some are adorned with carving, others lined with velvet, 
 (commonly black), with curtains and tassels, and the seats 
 like couches, to He stretched on, while he who rows, stands 
 upright on the very edge of the boat, and, with one oar 
 bending forward as if he would fall into the sea, rows and 
 turns with incredible dexterity ; thus passing from channel 
 to channel, landing his fare, or patron, at what house he 
 pleases. The beaks of these vessels are not unlike the 
 ancient Roman rostrums. 
 
 The first public building I went to see, was the Rialto, a 
 bridge of one arch over the grand canal, so large as to 
 admit a galley to row under it, built of good marble, and 
 having on it, besides many pretty shops, three ample and 
 stately passages for people without any inconvenience, the 
 two outmost nobly balustred with the same stone ; a piece 
 of architecture much to be admired. It was evening, and 
 the canal where the Noblesse go to take the air, as in our 
 Hyde-park, was full of ladies and gentlemen. There are 
 many times dangerous stops, by reason of the multitude of 
 gondolas ready to sink one another; and indeed they 
 affect to lean them on one side, that one who is not
 
 ]98 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 accustomed to it, would be afraid of over-setting. Here 
 they were singing, playing on harpsichords, and other 
 music, and serenading their mistresses ; in another place, 
 racing, and other pastimes on the water, it being now 
 exceeding hot. 
 
 Next day, I went to their Exchange, a place like ours, 
 frequented by merchants, but nothing so magnificent : 
 from thence, my guide led me to the Fondigo di Todeschi, 
 which is their magazine, and here many of the merchants, 
 especially Germans, have their lodging and diet as in a 
 college. The outside of this stately fabric is painted by 
 Giorgione da Castelfranco, and Titian himself. 
 
 Hence, I passed through the Mercera, one -of the most 
 delicious streets in the world for the sweetness of it, and 
 is all the way on both sides tapestred as it were with cloth 
 of gold, rich damasks and other silks, which the shops 
 expose and hang before their houses from the first floor, 
 and with that variety that for near hah the year spent 
 chiefly in this city, I hardly remember to have seen the 
 same piece twice exposed ; to this add the perfumes, apo- 
 thecaries' shops, and the innumerable cages of nightingales 
 which they keep, that entertain you with their melody 
 from shop to shop, so that shutting your eyes you. would 
 imagine yourself in the country, when indeed you are in 
 the middle of the sea. It is almost as silent as the middle 
 of a field, there being neither rattling of coaches nor 
 trampling of horses. This street, paved with brick, and 
 exceedingly clean, brought us through an arch into the 
 famous piazza of St. Mark. 
 
 Over this porch, stands that admirable Clock, celebrated 
 next to that of Strasburg for its many movements ; amongst 
 which, about twelve and six, which are their hours of Ave 
 Maria, when all the town are on their knees, come forth 
 the three Kings led by a star, and passing by the image of 
 Christ in his Mother's arms, do their reverence, and enter 
 into the clock by another door. At the top of this turret, 
 another automaton strikes the quarters. An honest mer- 
 chant told me that one day, walking in the piazza, he saw 
 the fellow who kept the clock struck with this hammer so 
 forcibly, as he was stooping his head near the bell to 
 mend something amiss at the instant of striking, that being 
 stunned he reeled over the battlements, and broke his
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 199 
 
 neck. The buildings in this piazza are all arched, on 
 pillars, paved within with black and white polished marble, 
 even to the shops, the rest of the fabric as stately as any in 
 Europe, being not only marble, but the architecture is of 
 the famous Sansovini, who lies buried in St. Jacomo, at the 
 end of the piazza. The battlements of this noble range of 
 building are railed with stone, and thick-set with excellent 
 statues, which add a great ornament. One of the sides is 
 yet much more Roman-like than the other which regards 
 the sea, and where the church is placed. The other range 
 is plainly Gothic : and so we entered into St. Mark's 
 Church, before which stand two brass pedestals exquisitely 
 cast and figured, which bear as many tall masts painted 
 red, on which upon great festivals they hang flags and 
 streamers. The church is also Gothic; yet for the pre- 
 ciousness of the materials, being of several rich marbles, 
 abundance of porphyry, serpentine, &c., far exceeding any 
 in Rome, St. Peter's hardly excepted. I much admired 
 the splendid history of our blessed Saviour composed all of 
 mosaic over the facciata, below which and over the chief 
 gate are cast four horses in copper as big as the life, the 
 same that formerly were transported from Rome by Con- 
 stantine to Byzantium, and thence by the Venetians 
 hither.* They are supported by eight porphyry columns, 
 of very great size and value. Being come into the Church, 
 you see nothing, and tread on nothing, but what is precious. 
 The floor is all inlaid with agates, lazulis, chalcedons, jas- 
 pers, porphyries, and other rich marbles, admirable also for 
 the work ; the walls sumptuously incrusted, and presenting 
 to the imagination the shapes of men, birds, houses, flowers, 
 and a thousand varieties. The roof is of most excellent 
 mosaic ; but what most persons admire is the new work of 
 the emblematic tree at the other passage out of the church. 
 In the midst of this rich volto rise five cupolas, the middle 
 very large and sustained by thirty-six marble columns, 
 eight of which are of precious marbles : under these 
 cupolas is the high altar, on which is a reliquary of several 
 sorts of jewels, engraven with figures, after the Greek 
 manner, and set together with plates of pure gold. The 
 altar is covered with a canopy of ophite, on which is 
 
 * They were taken away by Buonaparte to Paris ; but, in 1815, were sent 
 back to Venice. EDIT.
 
 200 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 sculptured the story of the Bible, and so on the pillars, which 
 are of Parian marble, that support it. Behind these, are 
 four other columns of transparent and true oriental ala- 
 baster, brought hither out of the mines of Solomon's 
 Temple, as they report. There are many chapels and 
 notable monuments of illustrious persons, dukes, cardinals,. 
 &c., as Zeno, J. Soranzi, and others : there is likewise 
 a vast baptistery, of copper. Among other venerable relics 
 is a stone, on which they say our blessed Lord stood 
 preaching to those of Tyre and Sidon, and near the door is 
 an image of Christ, much adored, esteeming it very sacred, 
 for that a rude fellow striking it, they say, there gushed out 
 a torrent of blood. In one of the corners lies the body of 
 St. Isidore, brought hither 500 years since from the island 
 of Chios. A little farther, they show the picture of 
 St. Dominic and Francis, affirmed to have been made by 
 the Abbot Joachim (many years before any of them were 
 born). Going out of the Church, tbey showed us the 
 stone where Alexander III. trod on the neck of the Emperor 
 Frederick Barbarossa, pronouncing that verse of the psalm, 
 " super basiliscum" &c. The doors of the Church are of 
 massy copper. There are near 500 pillars in this building, 
 most of them porphyry and serpentine, and brought chiefly 
 from Athens, and other parts of Greece, formerly in their 
 power. At the corner of the Church, are inserted into the 
 main wall four figures, as big as life, cut in porphyry, 
 which they say are the images of four brothers who 
 poisoned one another, by which means there escheated to 
 the Republic that vast treasury of relics now belonging to 
 the Church. At the other entrance that looks towards- 
 the sea, stands in a small chapel that statue of our Lady, 
 made (as they affirm) of the same stone, or rock, out of 
 which Moses brought water to the murmuring Israelites at 
 Horeb, or Meriba. 
 
 After all that is said, this church is, in my opinion, much 
 too dark and dismal, and of heavy work ; the fabric, as is 
 much of Venice, both for buildings and other fashions and 
 circumstances, after the Greeks, their next neighbours. 
 
 The next day, by favour of the French Ambassador, I 
 had admittance with him to view the Reliquary, called 
 here Tesoro di San Marco, which very few, even of tra- 
 vellers, are admitted to see. It is a large chamber full of
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 201 
 
 presses. There are twelve breast-plates, or pieces of pure 
 golden armour, studded with precious stones, and as many 
 crowns dedicated to St. Mark by so many noble Venetians, 
 who had recovered their wives taken at sea by the Sara- 
 cens ; many curious vases of agates ; the cap, or coronet, 
 of the Dukes of Venice, one of which had a ruby set on it, 
 esteemed worth 200,000 crowns; two unicorns' horns; 
 numerous vases and dishes of agate, set thick with pre- 
 cious stones and vast pearls ; divers heads of Saints, 
 enchased in gold ; a small ampulla, or glass, with our 
 Saviour's blood ; a great morsel of the real cross ; one of 
 the nails ; a thorn ; a fragment of the column to which 
 our Lord was bound, when scourged; the standard, or 
 ensign, of Constantine ; a piece of St. Luke's arm ; a rib 
 of St. Stephen ; a finger of Mary Magdalene ; numerous 
 other things, which I could not remember ; but a priest, 
 first vesting himself in his sacerdotals, with the stole 
 about his neck, showed us the Gospel of St. Mark (their 
 tutelar patron) written by his own hand, and whose body 
 they show buried in the church, brought hither from 
 Alexandria many years ago. 
 
 The Religious de li Servi have fine paintings of Paolo 
 Veronese, especially the Magdalen. 
 
 A French gentleman and myself went to the Courts of 
 Justice, the Senate-house, and Ducal Palace. The first 
 court near this church is almost wholly built of several 
 coloured sorts of marble, like chequer- work on the outside; 
 this is sustained by vast pillars, not very shapely, but 
 observable for their capitals, and that out of thirty-three 
 no two are alike. Under this fabric is the cloister where 
 merchants meet morning and evening, as also the grave 
 senators and gentlemen, to confer of state-affairs, in their 
 gowns and caps, like so many philosophers ; it is a very 
 noble and solemn spectacle. In another quadrangle, stood 
 two square columns of white marble, carved, which they 
 said had been erected to hang one of their Dukes on, who 
 designed to make himself Sovereign. Going through a 
 stately arch, there were standing in niches divers statues 
 of great value, amongst which is the so celebrated Eve, 
 esteemed worth its weight in gold ; it is just opposite to 
 the stairs where are two Colossuses of Mars and Neptune, 
 by Sansovino. We went up into a Corridor built with
 
 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 several Tribunals and Courts of Justice ; and by a well- 
 contrived staircase were landed in the Senate-hall, which 
 appears to be one of the most noble and spacious rooms in 
 Europe, being seventy-six paces long, and thirty-two in 
 breadth. At the upper end, are the Tribunals of the Doge, 
 Council of Ten, and Assistants ; in the body of the hall, 
 are lower ranks of seats, capable of containing 1500 Sena- 
 tors ; for they consist of no fewer on grand debates. Over 
 the Duke's throne are the paintings of the FinalJudgment, 
 by Tintoret, esteemed amongst the best pieces in Europe. 
 On the roof are the famous Acts of the Republic, painted 
 by several excellent masters, especially Bassano ; next 
 them, are the effigies of the several Dukes, with their 
 Elogies. Then, we turned into a great Court painted with 
 the Battle of Lepanto, an excellent piece ; afterwards, into 
 the Chamber of the Council of Ten, painted by the most 
 celebrated masters. From hence, by the special favour 
 of an Illustrissimo, we were carried to see the private 
 Armoury of the Palace, and so to the same Court we first 
 entered, nobly built of polished white marble, part of 
 which is the Duke's Court, pro tempore; there are two 
 wells adorned with excellent work, in copper. This led us 
 to the sea-side, where stand those columns of ophite-stone 
 in the entire piece, of a great height, one bearing St. 
 Mark's Lion, the other St. Theodorus ; these pillars were 
 brought from Greece, and set up by Nicholas Baraterius, 
 the architect ; between them public executions are per- 
 formed. 
 
 Having fed our eyes with the noble prospect of the 
 Island of St. George, the galleys, gondolas, and other 
 vessels passing to and fro, we walked under the cloister 
 on the other side of this goodly piazza, being a most mag- 
 nificent building, the design of Sansovino. Here we went 
 into the Zecca, or Mint ; at the entrance, stand two pro- 
 digious giants, or Hercules, of white marble : we saw them 
 melt, beat, and coin silver, gold, and copper. We then, 
 went up into the Procuratory, and a library of excellent 
 MSS. and books belonging to it and the public. After this, 
 we climbed up the tower of St. Mark, which we might 
 have done on horseback, as it is said one of the French 
 Kings did, there being no stairs, or steps, but returns that 
 take up an entire square on the arches forty feet, broad
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 203 
 
 enough for a coacli. This steeple stands by itself, without 
 any church near it, and is rather a watch tower in the 
 corner of the great piazza, 230 feet in height, the founda- 
 tion exceeding deep; on the top, is an angel, that turns 
 with the wind; and from hence is a prospect down the 
 Adriatic, as far as Istria and the Dalmatian side, with the 
 surprising sight of this miraculous city, lying in the bosom 
 of the sea, in the shape of a lute, the numberless Islands 
 tacked together by no fewer than 450 bridges. At the 
 foot of this tower, is a public tribunal of excellent work, in 
 white marble polished, adorned with several brass statues 
 and figures of stone in mezzo-relievo, the performance of 
 some rare artist. 
 
 It was now Ascension- Week, and the great mart, or 
 fair, of the whole year was kept, every body at liberty and 
 jolly. The noblemen stalking with their ladies on chop- 
 pines ; these are high-heeled shoes, particularly affected 
 by these proud dames, or, as some say, invented to keep 
 them at home, it being very difficult to walk with them ; 
 whence one being asked how he liked the Venetian dames, 
 replied, they were mezzo carne, mezzo legno, half flesh, 
 half wood ; and he would have none of them. The truth 
 is, their garb is very odd, as seeming always in masquerade; 
 their other habits also totally different from all nations. 
 They wear very long crisp hair, of several streaks and 
 colours, which they make so by a wash, dishevelling it on 
 the brims of a broad hat that has no crown, but a hole to 
 put out their heads by ; they dry them in the sun, as one 
 may see them at their windows. In their tire, they set 
 silk flowers and sparkling stones, their petticoats coming 
 from their very arm-pits, so that they are near three 
 quarters and a half apron ; their sleeves are made exceed- 
 ing wide, under which their shift- sleeves as wide, and 
 commonly tucked up to the shoulder, showing their naked 
 arms, through false sleeves of tiffany, girt with a bracelet 
 or two, with knots of points richly tagged about their 
 shoulders and other places of their body, which they 
 usually cover with a kind of yellow veil, of lawn, very 
 transparent. Thus attired, they set their hands on the 
 heads of two matron-like servants, or old women, to sup- 
 port them, who are mumbling their beads. It is ridicu- 
 lous to see how these ladies crawl in and out of their
 
 04 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 gondolas, by reason of their choppines, and what dwarfs 
 they appear, when taken down from their wooden scaffolds; 
 of these, I saw near thirty together, stalking half as high 
 again as the rest of the world; for courtezans, or the 
 citizens, may not wear choppines, but cover their bodies 
 and faces with a veil of a certain glittering taffeta, or 
 lustree, out of which they now and then dart a glance of 
 their eye, the whole face being otherwise entirely hid with 
 it ; nor may the common misses take this habit ; but go 
 abroad barefaced. To the corners of these virgin-veils- 
 hang broad but flat tassels of curious Point de Venice. 
 The married women go in black veils. The nobility wear 
 the same colour, but of fine cloth lined with taffeta, in 
 summer, with fur of the bellies of squirrels, in the winter, 
 which all put on at a certain day girt with a girdle em- 
 bossed with silver ; the vest not much different from what 
 our Bachelors of Arts wear in Oxford, and a hood of cloth, 
 made like a sack, cast over their left shoulder, and a round 
 cloth black cap fringed with wool, which is not so comely ; 
 they also wear their collar open, to show the diamond 
 button of the stock of their shirt. I have never seen pearl 
 for colour and bigness comparable to what the ladies wear, 
 most of the noble families being very rich in jewels, espe- 
 cially pearls, which are always left to the son, or brother, 
 who is destined to marry ; which the eldest seldom do. 
 The Doge's vest is of crimson velvet, the Procurator's, &c. 
 of damask, very stately. Nor was I less surprised with the 
 strange variety of the several nations seen every day in 
 the streets and piazzas ; Jews, Turks, Armenians, Persians, 
 Moors, Greeks, Sclavonians, some with their targets and 
 bucklers, and all in their native fashions, negociating in 
 this famous Emporium, which is always crowded with 
 strangers. 
 
 This night, having with my Lord Bruce taken our places- 
 before, we went to the Opera, where comedies and other 
 plays are represented in recitative music, by the most 
 excellent musicians, vocal and instrumental, with variety 
 of scenes painted and contrived with no less art of per- 
 spective, and machines for flying in the air, and other 
 wonderful motions ; taken together, it is one of the most 
 magnificent and expensive diversions the wit of man can 
 invent. The history was, Hercules in Lydia; the scenes
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 205 
 
 changed thirteen times. The famous voices Anna Rencia, 
 a Roman, and reputed the best treble of women; but 
 there was an eunuch who, in my opinion, surpassed her ; 
 also a Genoese that sung an incomparable base. This 
 held us by the eyes and ears till two in the morning, 
 when we went to the Ghetto de san Felice, to see the 
 noblemen and their ladies at basset, a game at cards which 
 is much used; but they play not in public, and all that 
 have inclination to it are in masquerade, without speaking 
 one word, and so they come in, play, lose, or gain, and go 
 away as they please. This time of licence is only in Car- 
 nival and this Ascension- Week ; neither are their theatres 
 open for that other magnificence, or for ordinary comedians, 
 save on these solemnities, they being a frugal and wise 
 people, and exact observers of all sumptuary laws. 
 
 There being at this time a ship bound for the Holy 
 Land, I had resolved to embark, intending to see Jerusalem, 
 and other parts of Syria, Egypt, and Turkey ; but, after I 
 had provided all necessaries, laid in snow to cool our drink, 
 bought some sheep, poultry, biscuit, spirits, and a little 
 cabinet of drugs, in case of sickness, our vessel (whereof 
 Captain Powell was master) happened to be pressed for the 
 service of the State, to carry provisions to Candia, now 
 newly attacked by the Turks ; which altogether frustrated 
 my design, to my great mortification. 
 
 On the . . . June, we went to Padua, to the Fair of their 
 St. Anthony, in company of divers passengers. The first 
 terra firma we landed at, was Fusina, being only an inn, 
 where we changed our barge, and were then drawn up by 
 horses through the river Brenta, a straight channel as even 
 as a line for twenty miles, the country on both sides 
 deliciously adorned with country villas and gentlemen's 
 retirements, gardens planted with oranges, figs, and other 
 fruit, belonging to the Venetians. At one of these villas, 
 we went ashore to see a pretty contrived palace. Observ- 
 able in this passage was buying their water of those who 
 farm the sluices ; for this artificial river is in some places 
 so shallow, that reserves of water are kept with sluices, 
 which they open and shut with a most ingenious invention, 
 or engine, governed even by a child. Thus they keep up 
 the water, or let it go, till the next channel be either filled 
 by the stop, or abated to the level of the other ; for which
 
 206 DIARY OF [PADUA, 
 
 every boat pays a certain duty. Thus, we stayed near half 
 an hour and more, at three several places, so as it was 
 evening before we got to Padua. This is a very ancient 
 city, if the tradition of Antenor's being the founder be not 
 a fiction; but thus speaks the inscription over a stately 
 gate: 
 
 Hanc antiquissimam urbem literarum omnium asylum, cujns agrum 
 fertilitatis Lumen Natura esse voluit, Antenor condidit anno ante 
 Christum natum M.Cxviii ; Senatus autem Venetus his belli propugna- 
 culis ornavit. 
 
 The town stands on the river Padus, whence its name, 
 and is generally built like Bologna, on arches and on brick, 
 so that one may walk all round it, dry, and in the shade ; 
 which is very convenient in these hot countries, and I 
 think I was never sensible of so burning a heat as I was 
 this season, especially the next day, which was that of the 
 fair, filled with noble Venetians, by reason of a great and 
 solemn procession to their famous cathedral. Passing by 
 St. Lorenzo, I met with this subscription : 
 
 Inclytus Antenor patriam vox nisa quietem* 
 Transtulit hue Henetum Dardanidumq ; fuga, 
 
 Expulit Euganeos, Patavinam condidit urbem, 
 Quern tegit hie humili marmore csesa domus. 
 
 Under the tomb, was a cobbler at his work. Being now 
 come to St. Antony's (the street most of the way straight, 
 well-built, and outsides excellently painted in fresco) we 
 surveyed the spacious piazza, in which is erected a noble 
 statue of copper of a man on horseback, in memory of one 
 Catta Malata,f a renowned captain. The church, a la 
 Greca, consists of five handsome cupolas, leaded. At the 
 left hand within, is the tomb of St. Antony and his altar, 
 about which a mezzo-relievo of the miracles ascribed to 
 him is exquisitely wrought in white marble by the three 
 famous sculptors, Tullius Lombardus, Jacobus Sansovinus, 
 and Hieronymus Compagno. A little higher is the choir, 
 walled parapet-fashion, with sundry coloured stone, half 
 relievo, the work of Andrea Reccij. The altar within is 
 
 * Keysler very justly observes, that the first line of this inscription conveys 
 no meaning. Vol. III., p. 220. 
 
 t Lassells calls him Gatta Mela, the Venetian General, nicknamed Gate, 
 because of his watchfulness. P. 429.
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 07 
 
 of the same metal which, with the candlestick and bases, 
 is, in my opinion, as magnificent as any in Italy. The 
 wainscot of the choir is rarely inlaid and carved. Here 
 are the sepulchres of many famous persons, as of Rodolphus 
 Fulgosi, &c. ; and, among the rest, one for an exploit at sea, 
 has a galley exquisitely carved thereon. The procession 
 bore the banners with all the treasure of the cloister, which 
 was a very fine sight. 
 
 Hence, walking over the Prato delle Valle, I went to 
 see the convent of St. Justina, than which I never beheld 
 one more magnificent. The church is an excellent piece 
 of architecture, of Andrea Palladio, richly paved, with a 
 stately cupola that covers the high altar enshrining the 
 ashes of that saint. It is of pietra-commessa, consisting of 
 flowers very naturally done. The choir is inlaid with 
 several sorts of wood representing the holy history, finished 
 with exceeding industry. At the far end, is that rare 
 painting of St. Justina's Martyrdom, by Paolo Veronese ; 
 and a stone on which they told us divers primitive Chris- 
 tians had been decapitated. In another place (to which 
 leads a small cloister well-painted) is a dry well, covered 
 with a brass-work grate, wherein are the bones of divers 
 martyrs. They show also the bones of St. Luke, in an old 
 alabaster coffin ; three of the Holy Innocents ; and the 
 Bodies of St. Maximus and Prosdocimus.* The dormitory 
 above is exceeding commodious and stately; but, what 
 most pleased me, was the old cloister so well painted with 
 the legendary saints, mingled with many ancient inscrip- 
 tions, and pieces of urns dug up, it seems, at the foundation 
 of the church. Thus, having spent the day in rambles, I 
 returned the next day to Venice. 
 
 The arsenal is thought to be one of the best-furnished 
 in the world. We entered by a strong port, always 
 guarded, and, ascending a spacious gallery, saw arms of 
 back, breast, and head, for many thousands ; in another, 
 were saddles ; over them, ensigns taken from the Turks. 
 Another hall is for the meeting of the Senate; passing 
 a graff, are the smiths' forges, where they are continually 
 employed on anchors and iron work. Near it is a well of 
 fresh water, which they impute to two rhinoceros's horns 
 
 * St. Peter's disciple, first Bishop of Padua. Lassells, p. 430.
 
 203 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 which they say lie in it, and will preserve it from ever 
 being empoisoned. Then we came to where the carpenters 
 were building their magazines of oars, masts, &c., for an 
 hundred galleys and ships, which have all their apparel 
 and furniture near them. Then the foundery, where they 
 cast ordnance; the forge is 450 paces long, and one of 
 them has thirteen furnaces. There is one cannon weigh- 
 ing 16,573 Ibs., cast whilst Henry the Third dined, and 
 put into a galley built, rigged, and fitted for launching 
 within that time. They have also arms for twelve galeasses, 
 which are vessels to row, of almost 150 feet long and 
 thirty wide, not counting prow, or poop, and contain 
 twenty-eight banks of oars, each seven men, and to carry 
 1300 men, with three masts. In another, a magazine for 
 fifty galleys, and place for some hundreds more. Here 
 stands the Bucentaur, with a most ample deck, and so 
 contrived that the slaves are not seen, having on the poop 
 a throne for the Doge to sit, when he goes in triumph to 
 espouse the Adriatic. Here is also a gallery of 200 yards 
 long for cables, and above that a magazine of hemp. 
 Opposite these, are the saltpetre houses, and a large row 
 of cells, or houses, to protect their galleys from the weather. 
 Over the gate, as we go out, is a room full of great and 
 small guns, some of which discharge six times at once. 
 Then, there is a court full of cannon, bullets, chains, grap- 
 ples, grenadoes, &c., and over that arms for 800,000 men, 
 and by themselves arms for 400, taken from some that 
 were in a plot against the State ; together with weapons 
 of offence and defence for sixty-two ships ; thirty-two 
 pieces of ordnance, on carriages taken from the Turks, and 
 one prodigious mortar-piece. In a word, it is not to be 
 reckoned up what this large place contains of this sort. 
 There were now twenty- three galleys, and four gally- 
 grossi, of 100 oars of a side. The whole arsenal is walled 
 about, and may be in compass about three miles, with 
 twelve towers for the watch, besides that the sea environs 
 it. The workmen, who are ordinarily 500, march out in 
 military order, and every evening receive their pay through 
 a small hole in the gate where the governor lives. 
 
 The next day, I saw a wretch executed, who had mur- 
 dered his master, for which he had his head chopped off
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 09 
 
 by an axe that slid down a frame of timber, * between the 
 two tall columns in St. Mark's piazza, at the sea-brink; 
 the executioner striking on the axe with a beetle ; and so 
 the head fell off the block. 
 
 Hence, by Gudala, we went to see Grimani's Palace, 
 the portico whereof is excellent work. Indeed, the world 
 cannot show a city of more stately buildings, considering 
 the extent of it, all of square stone, and as chargeable in 
 their foundations) as superstructure, being all built on 
 piles at an immense cost. We returned home by the 
 church of St. Johanne and Paulo, before which is, in cop- 
 per, the statue of Bartolomeo Colone, on horseback, double 
 gilt, on a stately pedestal, the work of Andrea Verrochio, 
 a Florentine ! This is a very fine church, and has in it 
 many rare altar-pieces of the best masters, especially that 
 on the left hand, of the Two Friars slain, which is of 
 Titian. 
 
 The day after, being Sunday, I went over to St. George's 
 to the ceremony of the schismatic Greeks, who are per- 
 mitted to have their church, though they are at defiance 
 with Rome. They allow no carved images, but many 
 painted, especially the story of their patron and his dragon. 
 Their rites differ not much from the Latins, save that of 
 communicating in both species, and distribution of the 
 holy bread. We afterwards fell into a dispute with a 
 Candiot, concerning the procession of the Holy Ghost. 
 The church is a noble fabric. 
 
 The church of St. Zachary is of Greek building, by 
 Leo IV. Emperor, and has in it the bones of that prophet, 
 with divers other saints. Near this, we visited St. Luke's, 
 famous for the tomb of Aretm.f 
 
 Tuesday, we visited several other churches, as Santa 
 Maria, newly incrusted with marble on the outside, and 
 adorned with porphyry, ophite, and Spartan stone. Near 
 the altar and under the organ, are sculptures, that are said 
 to be of the famous artist, Praxiteles. To that of St. Paul 
 
 The maiden at Halifax, in Yorkshire, and the guillotine in France, were 
 made after the same manner. 
 
 t This epitaph has been made on the above satirist and atheist : 
 
 Here lies the man who no man spared) 
 
 When the angry fit was on him ; 
 Nor God himself had better fared, 
 
 If An/tin had known him. 
 
 VOL. I. P
 
 0]Q DIARY OF [PADUA, 
 
 I went purposely, to see the tomb of Titian. Then, to 
 St. John the Evangelist, where, amongst other heroes, lies 
 Andrea Baldarius, the inventor of oars applied to great 
 vessels for fighting. 
 
 We also saw St. Roche, the roof whereof is, with the 
 school, or hall, of that rich confraternity, admirably painted 
 by Tintoretto, especially the Crucifix in the sacristia. We 
 saw also the church of St. Sebastian, and Carmelites' 
 monastery. 
 
 Next day, taking our gondola at St. Mark's, I passed to 
 the island of St. George Maggiore, where is a Convent of 
 Benedictines, and a well-built church of Andrea Palladio, 
 the great architect. The pavement, cupola, choir, and 
 pictures, very rich and sumptuous. The cloister has a 
 fine garden to it, which is a rare thing at Venice, though 
 this is an island a little distant from the city ; it has also 
 an olive-orchard, all environed by the sea. The new clois- 
 ter now building has a noble stair-case paved with white 
 and black marble. 
 
 From hence, we visited St. Spirito and St. Laurence, 
 fair churches in several islands ; but most remarkable is 
 that of the Padri Olivetani, in St. Helen's island, for the 
 rare paintings and carvings, with inlaid work, &c. 
 
 The next morning, we went again to Padua, where, on 
 the following day, we visited the market, which is plenti- 
 fully furnished, and exceedingly cheap. Here we saw the 
 great hall, built in a spacious piazza, and one of the most 
 magnificent in Europe ; its ascent is by steps a good 
 height, of a reddish marble polished, much used in these 
 parts, and happily found not far off"; it is almost 200 paces 
 long, and forty in breadth, all covered with lead, without 
 any support of columns. At the farther end, stands the 
 bust, in white marble, of Titus Livius, the historian. In 
 this town is the house wherein he was born, full of in- 
 scriptions and pretty fair. 
 
 Near to the monument of Speron Speroni, is painted on 
 the ceiling the celestial zodiac, and other astronomical 
 figures ; without side, there is a corridor, in manner of a 
 balcony, of the same stone ; and at the entry of each of 
 the three gates is the head of some famous person, as 
 Albert Eremitano, Julio Paullo (lawyers), and Peter Apo- 
 nius. In the piazza is the Podesta's and Capitano Grande's
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 211 
 
 Palace, well-built ; but, above all, the Monte Pieta, the 
 front whereof is of most excellent architecture. This is a 
 foundation of which there is one in most of the cities in 
 Italy, where there is a continual bank of money to assist 
 the poorer sort, on any pawn, and at reasonable interest, 
 together with magazines for deposit of goods, till redeemed. 
 
 Hence, to the Schools of this nourishing and ancient 
 University, especially for the study of physic and anatomy. 
 They are fairly built in quadrangle, with cloisters beneath, 
 and above with columns. Over the great gate are the 
 arms of the Venetian State, and under the lion of St. 
 Mark: 
 
 Sic ingredere, ut teipso quotidie doctior ; sic egredere nt indies 
 Patrise Christianseq ; Republics utilior evadas ; ita demum Gymnasium 
 a te feliciter se ornatum existimabit. 
 
 CIO.IX. 
 
 About the court-walls, are carved in stone and painted 
 the blazons of the Consuls of all the nations, that from 
 time to time have had that charge and honour in the 
 University, which at my being there was my worthy friend 
 Dr. Rogers, who here took that degree. 
 
 The Schools for the lectures of the several sciences are 
 above, but none of them comparable, or so much fre- 
 quented, as the theatre for anatomy, which is excellently 
 contrived both for the dissector and spectators. I was 
 this day invited to dinner, and, in the afternoon, (30th July) 
 received my matricula, being resolved to spend some 
 months here at study, especially physic and anatomy, of 
 both which there were now the most famous professors in 
 Europe. My matricula contained a clause, that I, my 
 goods, servants, and messengers, should be free from all 
 tolls and reprises, and that we might come, pass, return, 
 buy, or sell, without any toll, &c. 
 
 The next morning, I saw the garden of simples, rarely 
 furnished with plants, and gave order to the gardener to 
 make me a collection of them for an hortus hyemalis, by 
 permission of the Cavalier Dr. Veslingius, then Prefect and 
 Botanic Professor as well as of Anatomy. 
 
 This morning, the Earl of Arundel,* now in this city, a 
 
 * The celebrated Thomas, Earl of Arundel, part of whose collection was 
 eventually procured for the University of Oxford by Mr. Evelyn, and is dis- 
 tinguished by the name of Marmora, Arunddiana. 
 
 p 2
 
 212 DIARY OP [MURANO, 
 
 famous collector of paintings and antiquities, invited me 
 to go with him to see the garden of Mantua, where, as one 
 enters, stands a huge colosse of Hercules. From hence to 
 a place where was a room covered with a noble cupola, 
 built purposely for music ; the fillings up, or cove, betwixt 
 the walls, were of urns and earthen pots, for the better 
 sounding; it was also well-painted. After dinner, we 
 walked to the Palace of Foscari all' Arena, there remain- 
 ing yet some appearances of an ancient theatre, though 
 serving now for a court only before the house. There were 
 now kept in it two eagles, a crane, a Mauritanian sheep, 
 a stag, and sundry fowls, as in a vivary. 
 
 Three days after, I returned to Venice, and passed over 
 to Murano, famous for the best glasses in the world, 
 where having viewed their furnaces and seen their work, 
 I made a collection of divers curiosities and glasses, which 
 I sent for England by long sea. It is the white flints they 
 have from Pavia, which they pound and sift exceedingly 
 small, and mix with ashes made of a sea- weed brought out 
 of Syria, and a white sand, that causes this manufacture 
 to excel. The town is a Podestaria by itself, at some 
 miles distant on the sea from Venice, and like it built 
 upon several small islands. In this place, are excellent 
 oysters, small and well-tasted like our Colchester, and 
 they were the first, as I remember, that I ever could eat ; 
 for I had naturally an aversion to them. 
 
 At our return to Venice, we met several gondolas full 
 of Venetian ladies, who come thus far in fine weather to 
 take the air, with music and other refreshments. Besides 
 that, Murano is itself a very nobly built town, and has 
 divers noblemen's palaces in it, and handsome gardens. 
 
 In coming back, we saw the islands of St. Christopher 
 and St. Michael, the last of which has a church enriched 
 and incrusted with marbles and other architectonic orna- 
 ments, which the monks very courteously showed us. It 
 was built and founded by Margaret Emiliana of Verona, a 
 famous courtezan, who purchased a great estate, and by 
 this foundation hoped to commute for her sins. We then 
 rowed by the isles of St. Nicholas, whose church, with the 
 monuments of the Justinian family, entertained us awhile : 
 and then got home. 
 
 The next morning, Captain Powell, in whose ship I was
 
 ]645.] JOHN EVELYN. 213 
 
 to embark towards Turkey, invited me on board, lying 
 about ten miles from Venice, where we had a dinner of 
 English powdered beef and other good meat, with store of 
 wine and great guns, as the manner is. After dinner, 
 the Captain presented me with a stone he had lately 
 brought from Grand Cairo, which he took from the 
 mummy-pits, full of hieroglyphics ; I drew it on paper 
 with the true dimensions, and sent it in a letter to Mr. 
 Henshaw to communicate to Father Kircher, who was 
 then setting forth his great work " Obeliscus Pamphilius," 
 where it is described, but without mentioning my name. 
 The stone was afterwards brought for me into England, 
 and landed at Wapping, where, before I could hear of it, 
 it was broken into several fragments, and utterly defaced, 
 to my no small disappointment. 
 
 The boatswain of the ship also gave me a hand and foot 
 of a mummy, the nails whereof had been overlaid with 
 thin plates of gold, and the whole body was perfect, when 
 he brought it out of Egypt ; but the avarice of the ship's 
 crew broke it to pieces, and divided the body among them. 
 He presented me also with two Egyptian idols, and some 
 loaves of the bread which the Coptics use in the holy 
 Sacrament, with other curiosities. 
 
 8th August. I had news from Padua of my election to 
 be Syndicus Artistarum, which caused me, after two days' 
 idling in a country villa with the Consul of Venice, to 
 hasten thither, that I might discharge myself of that 
 honour, because it was not only chargeable, but would have 
 hindered my progress, and they chose a Dutch gentleman 
 in my place, which did not well please my countrymen, 
 who had laboured not a little to do me the greatest 
 honour a stranger is capable of in that University. Being 
 freed from this impediment, and having taken leave of 
 Dr. Janicius, a Polonian, who was going physician in the 
 Venetian galleys to Candia, I went again to Venice, and 
 made a collection of several books and some toys. Three 
 days after, I returned to Padua, where I studied hard till 
 the arrival of Mr. Henshaw, Bramstone, and some other 
 English gentlemen whom I had left at Borne, and who 
 made me go back to Venice, where I spent some time in 
 showing them what I had seen there. 
 
 26th September. My dear friend, and till now my
 
 DIARY OF [PADUA, 
 
 constant fellow-traveller, Mr. Thicknesse, being obliged to 
 return to England upon bis particular concern, and who 
 had served his Majesty in the wars, I accompanied him 
 part of his way, and, on the 28th, returned to Venice. 
 
 29th. Michaelmas-day, I went with my Lord Mowbray 
 (eldest son to the Earl of Arundel, and a most worthy 
 person) to see the collection of a noble Venetian, Signor 
 E/ugini. He has a stately Palace, richly furnished with 
 statues and heads of Roman Emperors, all placed in an 
 ample room. In the next, was a cabinet of medals, both 
 Latin and Greek, with divers curious shells and two fair 
 pearls in two of them ; but, above all, he abounded in 
 things petrified, walnuts, eggs in which the yolk rattled/ a 
 pear, a piece of beef with the bones in it, a whole hedge- 
 hog, a plaice on a wooden trencher turned into stone and 
 very perfect, charcoal, a morsel of cork yet retaining its 
 levity, sponges, and a piece of taffety, part rolled up, with 
 innumerable more. In another cabinet, supported by 
 twelve pillars of oriental agate, and railed about with 
 crystal, he showed us several noble intaglios of agate, 
 especially a head of Tiberius, a woman in a bath with her 
 dog, some rare cornelians, onyxes, crystals, &c., in one of 
 which was a drop of water not congealed, but moving up 
 and down, when shaken ; above all, a diamond which had 
 a very fair ruby growing in it; divers pieces of amber, 
 wherein were several insects, in particular one cut like a 
 heart that contained in it a salamander without the least 
 defect, and many pieces of mosaic. The fabric of this 
 cabinet was very ingenious, set thick with agates, tur- 
 quoises, and other precious stones, in the midst of which 
 was an antique of a dog in stone scratching his ear, very 
 rarely cut, and comparable to the greatest curiosity I had 
 ever seen of that kind for the accurateness of the work. 
 The next chamber had a bedstead all inlaid with agates, 
 crystals, cornelians, lazuli, &c., esteemed worth 16,000 
 crowns ; but, for the most part, the bedsteads in Italy are 
 of forged iron gilded, since it is impossible to keep the 
 wooden ones from the cimices. 
 
 From hence, I returned to Padua, when that town was 
 so infested with soldiers, that many houses were broken 
 open in the night, some murders committed, and the nuns 
 next our lodging disturbed, so as we were forced to be on
 
 1645.] JOHN EVELYN. 215 
 
 our guard with pistols and other fire-arms to defend our 
 doors ; and indeed the students themselves take a barba- 
 rous liberty in the evenings when they go to their strum- 
 pets, to stop all that pass by the house where any of their 
 companions in folly are with them. This custom they call 
 chi vali, so as the streets are very dangerous, when the 
 evenings grow dark ; nor is it easy to reform this intole- 
 rable usage, where there are so many strangers of several 
 nations. 
 
 Using to drink my wine cooled with snow and ice, as 
 the manner here is, I was so afflicted with an angina and 
 sore-throat, that it had almost cost me my life. After all 
 the remedies Cavalier Veslingius, chief professor here, 
 could apply, old Salvatico (that famous physician) being 
 called, made me be cupped, and scarified in the back in four 
 places ; which began to give me breath, and consequently 
 life; for I was in the utmost danger; but, God being 
 merciful to me, I was after a fortnight abroad again; 
 when, changing my lodging, I went over against Pozzo 
 Pinto, where I bought for winter provision 3000 weight of 
 excellent grapes, and pressed my own wine, which proved 
 incomparable liquor. 
 
 This was on 10th October. Soon after came to visit 
 me from Venice Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to the 
 Earl of Arundel, Mr. Bramstone, son to the Lord Chief 
 Justice, and Mr. Henshaw, with whom I went to another 
 part of the city to lodge near St. Catherine's, over-against 
 the monastery of nuns, where we hired the whole house, 
 and lived very nobly. Here I learned to play on the 
 theorb, taught by Signor Dominico Bassano, who had a 
 daughter married to a doctor of laws, that played and sung 
 to nine several instruments, with that skill and address as 
 few masters in Italy exceeded her ; she likewise composed 
 divers excellent pieces. I had never seen any play on the 
 Naples viol before. She presented me afterwards with 
 two recitatives of hers, both words and music. 
 
 31st October. Being my birth-day, the nuns of St. 
 Catherine's sent me flowers of silk-work. We were very 
 studious all this winter till Christmas, when, on Twelfth- 
 day, we invited all the English and Scots in town to a 
 feast, which sunk our excellent wine considerably. 
 
 1645-6. In January, Signor Molino was chosen Doge
 
 216 DIARY OF [PADUA, 
 
 of Venice, but the extreme snow that fell, and the cold, 
 hindered my going to see the solemnity, so as I stirred not 
 from Padua till Shrovetide, when all the world repair to 
 Venice, to see the folly and madness of the Carnival ; the 
 women, men, and persons of all conditions disguising 
 themselves in antique dresses, with extravagant music and 
 a thousand gambols, traversing the streets from house to 
 house, all places being then accessible and free to enter. 
 Abroad, they fling eggs filled with sweet water, but some- 
 times not over-sweet. They also have a barbarous custom 
 of hunting bulls about the streets and piazzas, which is 
 very dangerous, the passages being generally narrow. 
 The youth of the several wards and parishes contend in 
 other masteries and pastimes, so that it is impossible to 
 recount the universal madness of this place during this 
 time of license. The great banks are set up for those who 
 will play at bassett ; the comedians have liberty, and the 
 operas are open ; witty pasquils are thrown about, and the 
 mountebanks have their stages at every corner. The 
 diversion which chiefly took me up was three noble operas, 
 where were excellent voices and music, the most cele- 
 brated of which was the famous Anna Rencha, whom we 
 invited to a fish-dinner after four days in Lent, when they 
 had given over at the theatre. Accompanied with an 
 eunuch whom she brought with her, she entertained us 
 with rare music, both of them singing to a harpsichord. 
 It growing late, a gentleman of Venice came for her, to 
 show her the galleys, now ready to sail for Candia. This 
 entertainment produced a second, given us by the English 
 consul of the merchants, inviting us to his house, where he 
 had the Genoese, the most celebrated base in Italy, who 
 was one of the late opera-band. This diversion held us so 
 late at night, that, conveying a gentlewoman who had 
 supped with us to her gondola at the usual place of land- 
 ing, we were shot at by two carbines from another gondola, 
 in which were a noble Venetian and his courtezan un- 
 willing to be disturbed, which made us run in and fetch 
 other weapons, not knowing what the matter was, till we 
 were informed of the danger we might incur by pursuing 
 it farther. 
 
 Three days after this, I took my leave of Venice, and 
 went to Padua, to be present at the famous anatomy lee-
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 217 
 
 ture, celebrated here with extraordinary apparatus, lasting 
 almost a whole month. During this time, I saw a woman, 
 a child, and a man dissected with all the manual opera- 
 tions of the chirurgeon on the human body. The one was 
 performed by Cavalier Veslingius and Dr. Jo. Athelsteinus 
 Leonaenas, of whom I purchased those rare tables of veins 
 and nerves, and caused him to prepare a third of the 
 lungs, liver, and nervi sexti par: with the gastric veins, 
 which I sent into England, and afterwards presented to 
 the K/oyal Society, being the first of that kind that had 
 been seen there, and, for aught I know, in the world, 
 though afterwards there were others. When the anatomy 
 lectures, which were in the mornings, were ended, I went 
 to see cures done in the hospitals ; and certainly as there 
 are the greatest helps and the most skilful physicians, so 
 there are the most miserable and deplorable objects to exer- 
 cise upon. Nor is there any, I should think, so powerful an 
 argument against the vice reigning in this licentious 
 country, as to be spectator of the misery these poor creatures 
 undergo. They are indeed very carefully attended, and 
 with extraordinary charity. 
 
 20th March. I returned to Venice, where I took leave 
 of my friends. 
 
 22nd. I was invited to excellent English potted venison, 
 at Mr. Hobbson's, a worthy merchant. 
 
 23rd. I took my leave of the Patriarch and the Prince 
 of Wirtemberg, and Monsieur Grotius (son of the learned 
 Hugo) now going as commander to Candia ; and, in the 
 afternoon, received of Vandervoort, my merchant, my bills 
 of exchange of 300 ducats for my journey. He showed me 
 his rare collection of Italian books, esteemed very curious, 
 and of good value. 
 
 The next day, I was conducted to the Ghetta, where the 
 Jews dwell together in as a tribe, or ward, where I was pre- 
 sent at a marriage. The bride was clad in white, sitting 
 in a lofty chair, and covered with a white veil ; then two 
 old Rabbis joined them together, one of them holding a 
 glass of wine in his hand, which, in the midst of the cere- 
 mony, pretending to deliver to the woman, he let fall, the 
 breaking whereof was to signify the frailty of our nature, 
 and that we must expect disasters and crosses amidst all 
 enjoyments. This done, we had a fine banquet, and were
 
 218 DIARY OF [VENICE, 
 
 brought into the bride-chamber, where the bed was dressed 
 up with flowers, and the counterpane strewed in works. 
 At this ceremony, we saw divers very beautiful Portuguese 
 Jewesses, with whom we had some conversation. 
 
 I went to the Spanish Ambassador with Bonifacio, his 
 confessor, and obtained his pass to serve me in the Spanish 
 dominions; without which I was not to travel, in this 
 pompous form : 
 
 " Don Gaspar de Teves y Guzman, Marques de la Fuente, Senor Le 
 Lerena y Verazuza, Comendador de Colos, en la Orden de Sant Yago, 
 Alcalde Mayor perpetuo y Escrivano Mayor de la Ciudad de Sevilla, 
 Gentilhombre de la Camara de S. M. su Azimilero Mayor, de su Consejo, 
 su Embaxador extraordinario a los Principes de Italia, y Alemania, y a 
 esta serenissima Republica de Venetia, &c. Haviendo de partir de esta. 
 Ciudad para LaMilan el Signior Cavallero Evelyn Ingles, con un Criado, 
 mi ban pedido Passa-porte para los Estates de su M. Le he mandado 
 dar el presente, firmado de mi mano, y sellado con el sello de mis armas, 
 por el qual encargo a todos los menestros de S. M. antes quien le presen- 
 tase y a los que no lo son, supplico les dare passar libramente sin per- 
 mitir que se le haya vexacion alguna antes mandar le las favor para 
 continuar su viage. Fecho en Venecia a 24 del mes de Marzo dell 
 an'o 1646. Mar. de la Fuentes, &c." 
 
 Having packed up my purchases of books> pictures, 
 casts, treacle, &c., (the making and extraordinary cere- 
 mony whereof I had been curious to observe, for it is 
 extremely pompous and worth seeing) I departed from 
 Venice, accompanied with Mr. Waller (the celebrated 
 poet), now newly gotten out of England, after the Parlia- 
 ment had extremely worried him for attempting to put in 
 execution the commission of Array, and for which the rest 
 of his colleagues were hanged by the rebels. 
 
 The next day, I took leave of my comrades at Padua, 
 and receiving some directions from Dr. Salvatico as to 
 the care of my health, I prepared for my journey towards 
 Milan. 
 
 It was Easter-Monday that I was invited to breakfast 
 at the Earl of Arundel's.* I took my leave of him in his 
 bed, where I left that great and excellent man in tears on 
 some private discourse of crosses that had befallen his 
 
 * Laseells, who travelled a short time after Mr. Evelyn, says, that the Earl 
 died here, and that his bowels are buried under a black marble stone, inscribed, 
 " Interiora Thomse Howard Comitis Arondelise." P. 429.
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 219 
 
 illustrious family, particularly the undutifulness of his 
 grandson Philip's turning Dominican Friar (since Cardinal 
 of Norfolk), and the misery of his country now embroiled 
 in civil war. He caused his gentleman to give me direc- 
 tions, all written with his own hand, what curiosities I 
 should inquire after in my journey ; and so, enjoining me 
 to write sometimes to him, I departed. There stayed for 
 me below, Mr. Henry Howard (afterwards Duke of Nor- 
 folk), Mr. J. Digby, son of Sir Kenelm Digby, and other 
 gentlemen, who conducted me to the coach. 
 
 The famous lapidaries of Venice for false stones and 
 pastes, so as to emulate the best diamonds, rubies, &c., were 
 Marco Terrasso, and Gilbert. 
 
 An accompt of what Bills of Exchange I took up at Venice since my 
 coming from Rome, till my departure from Padua. 
 
 llth Aug., 1645 . . .200 
 
 7th Sept. . .. . . . 135 
 
 1st Oct. . . . .100 
 
 15th Jan., 1646 . . . . 100 
 
 23rd April . . . .300 
 
 835 Ducati di Banco. 
 
 In company, then, with Mr. Waller, one Captain Wray 
 (son of Sir Christopher, whose father had been in arms 
 against his Majesty, and therefore by no means welcome 
 to us), with Mr. Abdy, a modest and learned man, we got 
 that night to Vicenza, passing by the Euganean hills, cele- 
 brated for the prospects and furniture of rare simples, 
 which we found growing about them. The ways were 
 something deep, the whole country flat and even as a 
 bowling-green. The common fields lie square, and are 
 orderly planted with fruit-trees, which the vines run and 
 embrace, for many miles, with delicious streams creeping 
 along the ranges. 
 
 Vicenza is a city in the Marquisate of Treviso, yet ap- 
 pertaining to the Venetians, full of gentlemen and splendid 
 palaces, to which the famous Palladio, born here, has 
 exceedingly contributed, having been the architect. Most 
 conspicuous is the Hall of Justice ; it has a tower of 
 excellent work ; the lower pillars are of the first order ; 
 those in the three upper corridors are Doric ; under them, 
 are shops in a spacious piazza. The hall was built in
 
 220 DIARY OF [VICENZA, 
 
 imitation of that at Padua, but of a nobler design, a la 
 moderna. The next morning, we visited the theatre, as 
 being of that kind the most perfect now standing, and 
 built by Palladio, in exact imitation of the ancient Romans, 
 and capable of containing 5000 spectators. The scene, 
 which is all of stone, represents an imperial city, the order 
 Corinthian, decorated with statues. Over the Scenario, is 
 inscribed, "Virtuti ac Genio Olympior: Academia Thea- 
 trum hoc a fundamentis erexit Palladio Architect: 1584." 
 The scene declines eleven feet, the soffito painted with 
 clouds. To this, there joins a spacious hall for solemn days 
 to ballot in, and a second for the Academics. In the 
 Piazza, is also the podesta, or governor's house, the facdata 
 being of the Corinthian order, very noble. The Piazza 
 itself is so large as to be capable of jousts and tournaments, 
 the nobility of this city being exceedingly addicted to this 
 knight-errantry, and other martial diversions. In this 
 place, are two pillars in imitation of those at St Mark's at 
 Venice, bearing one of them a winged lion, the other the 
 statue of St. John the Baptist. 
 
 In a word, this sweet town has more well-built palaces 
 than any of its dimensions in all Italy, besides a number 
 begun and not yet finished (but of stately design) by 
 reason of the domestic dissensions betwixt them and those 
 of Brescia, fomented by the sage Venetians, lest by combin- 
 ing, they might think of recovering their ancient liberty. 
 For this reason, also, are permitted those disorders and 
 insolences committed at Padua among the youth of these 
 two territories. It is no dishonour in this country to be 
 some generations in finishing their palaces, that without 
 exhausting themselves by a vast expense at once, they may 
 at last erect a sumptuous pile. Count Oleine's Palace is 
 near perfected in this manner. Count Ulmarini * is more 
 famous for his gardens, being without the walls, especially 
 his cedrario, or conserve of oranges, eleven score of my 
 paces long, set in order and ranges, making a canopy all 
 the way by their intermixing branches for more than 200 
 of my single paces, and which, being full of fruit and blos- 
 soms, was a most delicious sight. In the middle of this 
 garden, was a cupola made of wire, supported by slender 
 pillars of brick, so closely covered with ivy, both without 
 
 * Lassells calls him Valmerana, p. 435.
 
 164G.] JOHN EVELYN. 21 
 
 and within, that nothing was to be perceived but green ; 
 betwixt the arches, there dangled festoons of the same. 
 Here is likewise a most inextricable labyrinth. 
 
 I had in this town recommendation to a very civil and 
 ingenious apothecary, called Angelico, who had a pretty 
 collection of paintings. I would fain have visited a Palace, 
 called the Rotunda, which was a mile out of town, belong- 
 ing to Count Martio Capra ; but one of our companions 
 hastening to be gone, and little minding anything save 
 drinking and folly, caused us to take coach sooner than we 
 should have done. 
 
 A little from the town, we passed the Campo Martio, 
 set out in imitation of ancient Rome, wherein the nobles 
 exercise their horses, and the ladies make the Corso ; it is 
 entered by a stately triumphal arch, the invention of 
 Palladio. 
 
 Being now set out for Verona, about midway we dined 
 at Ostaria Nova, and came late to our resting-place, which 
 was the Cavaletto, just over the monument of the Scala- 
 geri,* formerly Princes of Verona, adorned with many 
 devices in stone of ladders, alluding to the name. 
 
 Early next morning, we went about the city, which 
 is built on the gentle declivity and bottom of a hill, envi- 
 roned in part with some considerable mountains and downs 
 of fine grass, like some places in the south of England; and, 
 on the other side, having the rich plain where Caius Marius 
 overthrew the Cimbrians. The city is divided in the midst 
 by the river Adige, over which are divers stately bridges, 
 and on its banks are many goodly palaces, whereof one is 
 well painted in chiaro-oscuro on the outside, as are divers 
 in this dry climate of Italy. 
 
 The first thing that engaged our attention and wonder, 
 too, was the amphitheatre, which is the most entire of 
 ancient remains now extant. The inhabitants call it the 
 Arena : it has two porticos, one within the other, and is 
 thirty-four rods long, twenty-two in breadth, with forty-two 
 ranks of stone benches, or seats, which reach to the top. 
 The vastness of the marble stones is stupendous. " L. V. 
 Flaminius, Consul, anno. urb. con. LIU." This I esteem to 
 be one of the noblest antiquities in Europe, it is so vast 
 * Or della Scala.
 
 222 DIARY OF [VERONA, 
 
 and entire, having escaped the ruins of so many other 
 public buildings for above 1400 years. 
 
 There are other arches, as that of the victory of Marius ; 
 temples, aqueducts, &c., showing still considerable remains 
 in several places of the town, and how magnificent it has 
 formerly been. It has three strong castles, and a large and 
 noble wall. Indeed, the whole city is bravely built, espe- 
 cially the Senate-house, where we saw those celebrated sta- 
 tues of Cornelius Nepos, ^milius Marcus, Plinius, and 
 Vitruvius, all having honoured Verona by their birth; and, 
 of later date, Julius Csesar Scaliger, that prodigy of 
 learning. 
 
 In the evening, we saw the garden of Count Crnsti's 
 villa, where are walks cut out of the main rock, from whence 
 we had the pleasant prospect of Mantua and Parma, though 
 at great distance. At the entrance of this garden, grows 
 the goodliest cypress, I fancy, in Europe, cut in a pyramid ; 
 it is a prodigious tree both for breadth and height, entirely 
 covered, and thick to the base. 
 
 Dr. Cortone, a civilian, showed us, amongst other rarities, 
 a St. Dorothea, of Raphael. We could not see the rare 
 drawings, especially of Parmensis, belonging to Dr. Mar- 
 cello, another advocate, on account of his absence. 
 
 Verona deserved all those elogies Scaliger has honoured 
 it with; for, in my opinion, the situation is the most 
 delightful I ever saw, it is so sweetly mixed with rising 
 ground and valleys, so elegantly planted with trees on which 
 Bacchus seems riding as it were in triumph every autumn, 
 for the vines reach from tree to tree ; here, of all places I 
 have seen in Italy, would I fix a residence. Well has that 
 learned man given it the name of the very eye of the 
 world : 
 
 Ocelle mundi, Sidus Itali coeli, 
 
 Flos Urbium, flos corniculumq' amoenum, 
 
 Quot sunt, eruntve, quot fuere, Verona. 
 
 The next morning, we travelled over the downs where 
 Marius fought, and fancied ourselves about Winchester, 
 and the country towards Dorsetshire. We dined at an inn, 
 called Cavalli Caschieri, near Peschiera, a very strong fort 
 of the Venetian Republic, and near the Lago di Garda,
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 23 
 
 which disembogues into that of Mantua, near forty miles 
 in length, highly spoken of by my Lord Arundel to me, as 
 the most pleasant spot in Italy, for which reason I observed 
 it with the more diligence, ah' gh ting out of the coach, and 
 going up to a grove of cypresses growing about a gentle- 
 man's country-house, from whence indeed it presents a 
 most surprising prospect. The hills and gentle risings 
 about it produce oranges, citrons, olives, figs, and other 
 tempting fruits, and the waters abound in excellent fish, 
 especially trouts. In the middle of this lake, stands Ser- 
 monea, on an island ; here Captain Wray bought a pretty 
 nag of the master of our inn where we dined, for eight 
 pistoles, which his wife, our hostess, was so unwilling to 
 part with, that she did nothing but kiss and weep and hang 
 about the horse's neck, till the captain rode away. 
 
 We came this evening to Brescia, which next morning 
 we traversed, according to our custom, in search of anti- 
 quities and new sights. Here, I purchased of old Lazarino 
 Cominazzo my fine carbine, which cost me nine pistoles, 
 this city being famous for these fire-arms, and that work- 
 man, with Jo. Bap. Franco, the best esteemed. The city 
 consists most in artists, every shop abounding in guns, 
 swords, armourers, &c. Most of the workmen come out 
 of Germany. It stands in a fertile plain, yet the castle 
 is built on a hilL The streets abound in fair fountains. 
 The Torre della Pallada is of a noble Tuscan order, and 
 the Senate-house is inferior to few. The piazza is but 
 indifferent ; some of the houses arched as at Padua. The 
 Cathedral was under repair. We would from hence have 
 visited Parma, Piacenza, Mantua, &c. ; but the banditti, 
 and other dangerous parties being abroad, committing many 
 enormities, we were contented with a Pisgah sight of them. 
 
 We dined next day at Ursa Vecchia, and, after dinner, 
 passed by an exceeding strong fort of the Venetians, called 
 Ursa Nova, on their frontier. Then by the river Oglio, and 
 so by Sonano, where we enter the Spanish dominions, and 
 that night arrived at Crema, which belongs to Venice, and 
 is well-defended. The Podesta's Palace is finely built, and 
 so is the Duomo, or Cathedral, and the tower to it, with 
 an ample piazza. 
 
 Early next day, after four miles' riding, we entered into
 
 224 DIARY OF [MILAN, 
 
 the State of Milan, and passed by Lodi,* a great city 
 famous for cheese, little short of the best Parmeggiano. 
 We dined at Marignano, ten miles before coming to Milan, 
 where we met half-a-dozen suspicious cavaliers, who yet 
 did us no harm. Then, passing as through a continual 
 garden, we went on with exceeding pleasure; for it is 
 the Paradise of Lombardy, the highways as even and 
 straight as a line, the fields to a vast extent planted with 
 fruit about the enclosures, vines to every tree at equal dis- 
 tances, and watered with frequent streams. There was 
 likewise much corn, and olives in abundance. At approach 
 of the city, some of our company, in dread of the Inquisi- 
 tion, (severer here than in all Spain), thought of throwing 
 away some Protestant books and papers. We arrived 
 about three in the afternoon, when the officers searched us 
 thoroughly for prohibited goods ; but, finding we were only 
 gentlemen travellers, dismissed us for a small reward, and 
 we went quietly to our inn, the Three Kings, where, for that 
 day, we refreshed ourselves, as we had need. The next 
 morning, we delivered our letters of recommendation to 
 the learned and courteous Ferrarius, a Doctor of the 
 Ambrosian College, who conducted us to all the remark- 
 able places of the town, the first of which was the famous 
 Cathedral. We entered by a portico so little inferior to 
 that of Rome that, when it is finished, it will be hard to 
 say which is the fairest ; the materials are all of white and 
 black marble, with columns of great height, of Egyptian 
 granite. The outside of the church is so full of sculpture, 
 that you may number 4000 statues, all of white marble, 
 amongst which that of St. Bartholomew is esteemed a 
 masterpiece. The church is very spacious, almost as long 
 as St. Peter's at Rome, but not so large. About the choir, 
 the sacred Story is finely sculptured, in snow-white marble, 
 nor know I where it is exceeded. About the body of the 
 church are the miracles of St. Charles Borromeo, and in 
 the vault beneath is his body before the high altar, grated, 
 and enclosed, in one of the largest crystals in Europe. To 
 this also belongs a rich treasure. The cupola is all of 
 marble within and without, and even covered with great 
 
 * Celebrated for the victory gained by Euonnparte over the Austrians, 
 in 17DG.
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 225 
 
 planks of marble, in the Gothic design. The windows are 
 most beautifully painted. Here are two very fair and 
 excellent organs. The fabric is erected in the midst of a 
 fair piazza, and in the centre of the city. 
 
 Hence, we went to the Palace of the Archbishop, which 
 is a quadrangle, the architecture of Theobaldi, who designed 
 much for Philip II. in the Escurial, and has built much in 
 Milan. Hence, into the Governor's Palace, who was Con- 
 stable of Castile. Tempted by the glorious tapestries and 
 pictures, I adventured so far alone, that peeping into 
 a chamber where the great man was under the barber's 
 hands, he sent one of his negroes (a slave) to know what I 
 was. I made the best excuse I could, and that I was only 
 admiring the pictures, which he returning and telling his 
 lord, I heard the Governor reply that I was a spy; on which I 
 retired with all the speed I could, passed the guard of 
 Swiss, got into the street, and in a moment to my com- 
 pany, who were gone to the Jesuits' Church, which in truth 
 is a noble structure, the front especially, after the modern. 
 After dinner, we were conducted to St. Celso, a church of 
 Tare architecture, built by Bramante ; the carvings of the 
 marble facciata are by Annibal Fontana, whom they esteem 
 at Milan equal to the best of the ancients. In a room 
 joining to the Church, is a marble Madonna, like a Colosse, 
 of the same sculptor's work, which they will not expose to 
 the air. There are two sacristias, in one of which is a fine 
 Virgin, of Leonardo da Vinci; in the other, is one of Raphael 
 d'Urbino, a piece which all the world admires. The 
 Sacristan showed us a world of rich plate, jewels, and 
 embroidered copes, which are kept in presses. 
 
 Next, we went to see the Great Hospital, a quadrangular 
 cloister of a vast compass, a truly royal fabric, with an 
 annual endowment of 50,000 crowns of gold. There is in 
 the middle of it a cross building for the sick, and, just under 
 it, an altar so placed as to be seen in all places of the 
 Infirmary. 
 
 There are divers colleges built in this quarter, richly pro- 
 vided for by the same Borromeo and his nephew, the last 
 Cardinal Frederico, some not yet finished, but of excellent 
 design. 
 
 In St. Eustorgio, they tell us, formerly lay the bodies of 
 the three Magi, since translated to Cologne, in Germany ; 
 
 VOL. I. Q
 
 26 DIARY OF [MILAN, 
 
 they however preserve the tomb, which is a square stone, 
 on which is engraven a star, and under it, " Sepulchrum 
 trium Magorum." 
 
 Passing by St. Laurence, we saw sixteen columns of 
 marble, and the ruins of a Temple of Hercules, with this 
 inscription yet standing : 
 
 Imp. Caesari L. Aurelio Vero Aug. Arminiaco Medio Parthico 
 Max. Trib. Pot. VII. Imp. IIII. Cos. El. P. P. Divi Antonini Pij Divi 
 Hadrian! Nepoti Divi Trajani Parthici Pro-Nepoti Divi Nervse Abnepoti 
 Dec. Dec. 
 
 We concluded this day's wandering at the Monastery of 
 Madonna delle Grazie, and in the refectory admired that 
 celebrated Ccena Domini of Leonardo da Vinci, which 
 takes up the entire wall at the end, and is the same that 
 the great virtuoso, Francis the First of France, was so ena- 
 moured of, that he consulted to remove the whole wall by 
 binding it about with ribs of iron and timber, to convey it 
 into France. It is indeed one of the rarest paintings that 
 was ever executed by Leonardo, who was long in the service 
 of that Prince, and so dear to him that the King coming 
 to visit him in his old age and sickness, he expired in his 
 arms. But this incomparable piece is now exceedingly 
 impaired.* 
 
 Early next morning, came the learned Dr. Ferrarius to 
 visit us, and took us in his coach to see the Ambrosian 
 Library, where Cardinal Fred. Borromeo has expended so 
 vast a sum on this building, and in furnishing with curiosi- 
 ties, especially paintings and drawings of inestimable value 
 amongst painters. It is a school fit to make the ablest 
 artists. There are many rare things of Hans Breugel, and 
 amongst them the Four Elements. In this room, stands 
 the glorious [boasting] inscription of Cavaliero Galeazzo 
 Arconati, valuing his gift to the library of several drawings 
 by Da Vinci, but these we could not see, the keeper of 
 
 * It is not noticed in the Painter's Voyage of Italy, published 1679, pro- 
 bably from its decay. The painting is still there, but, having been often 
 retouched, on account of the dampness of the wall, is certainly not what it 
 once was. The picture has been again drawn into notice in England, from 
 the magnificent print of it lately engraved in Italy by Raphael Morghen, which 
 is esteemed one of the finest works of art in this kind that has ever been 
 executed. There is also an old engraving from it by Peter Soutman, but 
 which by no means exhibits a true delineation of the characters of the piece, 
 as designed by Leonardo.
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 227 
 
 them being out of town, and he always carrying the keys 
 with him ; but my Lord Marshal, who had seen them, told 
 me all but one book are small, that a huge folio contained 
 400 leaves full of scratches of Indians, &c. ; but whereas 
 the inscription pretends that our King Charles had offered 
 1000/. for them, the truth is, and my Lord himself told 
 me, that it was he who treated with Galeazzo for himself, 
 in the name and by permission of the King, and that the 
 Duke of Feria, who was then Governor, should make the 
 bargain ; but my Lord, having seen them since, did not 
 think them of so much worth. 
 
 In the great room, where is a goodly library, on the 
 right hand of the door, is a small wainscot closet fur- 
 nished with rare manuscripts. Two original letters of the 
 Grand Signor were showed us, sent to two Popes, one 
 of which was (as I remember) to Alexander VI. [Borgia], 
 and the other mentioning the head of the lance which 
 pierced our Blessed Saviour's side as a present to the 
 Pope : I would fain have gotten a copy of them, but could 
 not; I hear, however, that they are since translated into 
 Italian, and that therein is a most honourable mention of 
 Christ. 
 
 We re-visited St. Ambrose's church. The high altar is 
 supported by four porphyry columns, and under it lie the 
 remains of that holy man. Near it they showed us a pit, 
 or well (an obscure place it is), where they say St. Ambrose 
 baptized St. Augustine, and recited the Te Deum ; for so 
 imports the inscription. The place is also famous for some 
 Councils that have been held here, and for the coronation 
 of divers Italian Kings and Emperors, receiving the iron 
 crown from the Archbishop of this See.* They show the 
 History by Josephus, written on the bark of trees. The 
 high altar is wonderfully rich. 
 
 Milan is one of the most princely cities in Europe : it 
 has no suburbs, but is circled with a stately wall for ten 
 miles, in the centre of a country that seems to flow with 
 milk and honey. The air is excellent ; the fields fruitful 
 to admiration, the market abounding with all sorts of pro- 
 visions. In the city are near 100 churches, 71 monasteries, 
 and 40,000 inhabitants; it is of a circular figure, fortified 
 
 * Buonaparte took it and put it on his own head.
 
 228 DIARY OF [MILAN, 
 
 with bastions, full of sumptuous palaces and rare artists, 
 especially for works in crystal, which is here cheap, being 
 found among the Alps. They have curious straw-work 
 among the nuns, even to admiration. It has a good river, 
 and a citadel at some small distance from the city, com- 
 manding it, of great strength for its works and munition 
 of all kinds. It was built by Galeatius the Second, and 
 consists of four bastions, and works at the angles and 
 fronts; the graff is faced with brick to a very great depth; 
 has two strong towers as one enters, and within is another 
 fort, and spacious lodgings for the soldiers, and for exercis- 
 ing them. No accommodation for strength is wanting, 
 and all exactly uniform. They have here also all sorts of 
 work and tradesmen, a great magazine of arms and pro- 
 visions. The fosse is of spring water, with a mill for 
 grinding corn, and the ramparts vaulted underneath. Don 
 Juan Vasques Coronada was now Governor ; the garrison 
 Spaniards only. 
 
 There is nothing better worth seeing than the collec- 
 tion of Signor Septalla,* a canon of St. Ambrose, famous 
 over Christendom for his learning and virtues. Amongst 
 other things, he showed us an Indian wood, that has the 
 perfect scent of civet ; a flint, or pebble, that has a quan- 
 tity of water in it, which is plainly to be seen, it being 
 clear as agate ; divers crystals that have water moving in 
 them, some of them having plants, leaves, and hog's bristles 
 in them ; much amber full of insects, and divers things of 
 woven amianthus.f 
 
 Milan is a sweet place, and, though the streets are 
 narrow, >they abound in rich coaches, and are full of 
 noblesse/~who frequent the course every night. Walking 
 a turn itt the portico before the dome, a cavaliero who 
 passed by, ; hearing some of us speaking English, looked a 
 good while earnestly on us, and by and bye sending his 
 
 * The Painter's Voyage particularizes 85 pictures in this Collection, but 
 few of them by great masters. 
 
 t There are two descriptive Catalogues of the Museum, in its day one of 
 the most celebrated in all Italy ; both are in small quarto, the one in Latin, 
 the later and most complete one, in Italian. To this is prefixed a large inside 
 view of the Museum, exhibiting its curious contents of busts, statues, pictures, 
 urns, and every kind of rarity, natural and artificial. 
 
 Keysler, in his Travels, laments the not being able to see it, on account of a 
 law-suit then depending, and it has been long since dispersed, probably in con- 
 sequence of it.
 
 1C46.] JOHN EVELYN. 229 
 
 servant, desired we would honour him the next day at 
 dinner. We looked on this as an odd invitation, he not 
 speaking to us himself, but we returned his civility with 
 thanks, though not fully resolved what to do, or indeed 
 what might be the meaning of it in this jealous place; but, 
 on enquiry, it was told us he was a Scots Colonel, who had 
 an honourable command in the city, so that we agreed to 
 go. This afternoon, we were wholly taken up in seeing an 
 opera represented by some Neapolitans, performed all in 
 excellent music with rare scenes, in which there acted a 
 celebrated beauty. 
 
 Next morning, we went to the Colonel's, who had sent 
 his servant again to conduct us to his house, which we 
 found to be a noble palace, richly furnished. There were 
 other guests, all soldiers, one of them a Scotchman, but we 
 could not learn one of their names. At dinner, he excused 
 his rudeness that he had not himself spoken to us, telling 
 us it was his custom, when he heard of any English 
 travellers (who but rarely would be known to pass through 
 that city for fear of the Inquisition), to invite them to his 
 house, where they might be free. We had a sumptuous 
 dinner, and the wine was so tempting that after some 
 healths had gone about, and we had risen from table, the 
 Colonel led us into his hall, where there hung up divers 
 colours, saddles, bridles, pistols, and other arms, being 
 trophies which he had taken with his own hands from the 
 enemy ; amongst them, he would needs bestow a pair of 
 pistols on Captain Wray, one of our fellow-travellers and a 
 good drinking gentleman, and on me a Turkish bridle 
 woven with silk and very curiously embossed, with other 
 silk trappings, to which hung a half moon finely wrought, 
 which he had taken from a bashaw whom he had slain. 
 With this glorious spoil, I rid the rest of my journey as 
 far as Paris, and brought it afterwards into England. He 
 then showed us a stable of brave horses, with his menage 
 and cavalerizzo. Some of the horses he caused to be 
 brought out, which he mounted, and performed all the 
 motions of an excellent horseman. When this was done, 
 and he had alighted, contrary to the advice of his groom 
 and page, who knew the nature of the beast, and that their 
 master was a little spirited with wine, he would have a 
 fiery horse that had not yet been managed and was very
 
 230 DIARY OF [SESTO, 
 
 ungovernable, but was otherwise a very beautiful creature ; 
 this, he mounting, the horse getting the reins in a full 
 carrier, rose so desperately that he fell quite back, crushing 
 the Colonel so forcibly against the wall of the menage, 
 that though he sat on him like a Centaur, yet recovering the 
 jade on all fours again, he desired to be taken down and 
 so led in, where he cast himself on a pallet, and, with infi- 
 nite lamentations, after some time we took leave of him, 
 being now speechless. The next morning, going to visit 
 him, we found before the door the canopy which they 
 usually carry over the host, and some with lighted tapers ; 
 which made us suspect he was in very sad condition, and 
 so indeed we found him, an Irish Friar standing by his 
 bedside as confessing him, or at least disguising a confes- 
 sion, and other ceremonies used in extremis, for we after- 
 wards learned that the gentleman was a Protestant, and 
 had this Friar, his confidant ; which was a dangerous thing 
 at Milan, had it been but suspected. At our entrance, he 
 sighed grievously, and held up his hands, but was not able 
 to speak. After vomiting some blood, he kindly took us 
 all by the hand, and made signs that he should see us no 
 more, which made us take our leave of him with extreme 
 reluctancy and affliction for the accident. This sad disaster 
 made us consult about our departure as soon as we could, 
 not knowing how we might be inquired after, or engaged, 
 the Inquisition being so cruelly formidable and inevitable, 
 on the least suspicion. The next morning, therefore, dis- 
 charging our lodgings, we agreed for a coach to carry us 
 to the foot of the Alps, not a little concerned for the death 
 of the Colonel, which we now heard of, and who had so 
 courteously entertained us. 
 
 The first day, we got as far as Castellanza, by which 
 runs a considerable river into Lago Maggiore; here, at 
 dinner, were two or three Jesuits, who were very prag- 
 matical and inquisitive, whom we declined conversation 
 with as decently as we could : so we pursued our journey 
 through a most fruitful plain, but the weather was wet and 
 uncomfortable. At night, we lay at Sesto. 
 
 The next morning, leaving our coach, we embarked in a 
 boat to carry us over the lake (being one of the largest in 
 Europe), and whence we could see the towering Alps, and 
 amongst them the great San Bernardo, esteemed the
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 31 
 
 highest mountain in Europe, appearing to be some miles 
 above the clouds. Through this vast water, passes the river 
 Ticinus, which discharges itself into the Po, by which 
 means Helvetia transports her merchandizes into Italy, 
 which we now begin to leave behind us. 
 
 Having now sailed about two leagues, we were hauled 
 ashore at Arona, a strong town belonging to the Duchy 
 of Milan, where, being examined by the Governor, and 
 paying a small duty, we were dismissed. Opposite to this 
 fort, is Angiera, another small town, the passage very 
 pleasant with the prospect of the Alps covered with pine 
 and fir-trees, and above them snow. We passed the pretty 
 Island Isabella,* about the middle of the lake, on which is 
 a fair house built on a mount ; indeed, the whole island is 
 a mount ascended by several terraces and walks all set 
 above with orange and citron trees. 
 
 The next we saw was Isola,* and we left on our right 
 hand the Isle of St. Jovanni ; * and so sailing by another 
 small town built also on an island, we arrived at night at 
 Margazzo, an obscure village at the end of the lake, and 
 at the very foot of the Alps, which now rise as it were 
 suddenly after some hundreds of miles of the most even 
 country in the world, and where there is hardly a stone to 
 be found, as if Nature had here swept up the rubbish of 
 the earth in the Alps, to form and clear the plains of 
 Lombardy, which we had hitherto passed since our coming 
 from Venice. In this wretched place, I lay on a bed 
 stuffed with leaves, which made such a crackling, and did 
 so prick my skin through the tick, that I could not sleep. 
 The next morning, I was furnished with an ass, for we 
 could not get horses ; instead of stirrups, we had ropes tied 
 with a loop to put our feet in, which supplied the place of 
 other trappings. Thus, with my gallant steed, bridled with 
 my Turkish present, we passed through a reasonably plea- 
 sant but very narrow valley, till we came to Duomo, 
 where we rested, and, having showed the Spanish pass, the 
 Governor would press another on us, that his Secretary 
 might get a crown. Here, we exchanged our asses for 
 mules, sure-footed on the hills and precipices, being accus- 
 tomed to pass them. Hiring a guide, we were brought 
 
 * These are called " the Borromean Islands in the Lago Maggiore, belong- 
 ing to the great Milanese family of Borromeo."
 
 032 DIARY OF [VEDK*, 
 
 that night through very steep, craggy and dangerous 
 passages to a village called Vedra, being the last of the 
 King of Spain's dominions in the Duchy of Milan. We 
 had a very infamous wretched lodging. 
 
 The next morning, we mounted again through strange, 
 horrid, and fearful crags and tracts, abounding in pine- 
 trees, and only inhabited by bears, wolves, and wild goats \ 
 nor could we anywhere see above a pistol-shot before us, 
 the horizon being terminated with rocks and mountains, 
 whose tops, covered with snow, seemed to touch the skies, 
 and in many places pierced the clouds. Some of these 
 vast mountains were but one entire stone, betwixt whose 
 clefts now and then precipitated great cataracts of melted 
 snow, and other waters, which made a terrible roaring, 
 echoing from the rocks and cavities ; and these waters in. 
 some places breaking in the fall, wet us as if we had passed 
 through a mist, so as we could neither see nor hear one 
 another, but, trusting to our honest mules, we jogged on 
 our way. The narrow bridges, in some places made only 
 by felling huge fir-trees, and laying them athwart from 
 mountain to mountain, over cataracts of stupendous depth, 
 are very dangerous, and so are the passages and edges 
 made by cutting away the main rock ; others in steps ; 
 and in some places we pass between mountains that have 
 been broken and fallen on one another; which is very 
 terrible, and one had need of a sure foot and steady head 
 to climb some of these precipices, besides that they are har- 
 bours for bears and wolves, who have sometimes assaulted 
 travellers. In these straits, we frequently alighted, now 
 freezing in the snow, and anon frying by the reverberation 
 of the sun against the cliffs as we descend lower, when we 
 meet now and then a few miserable cottages so built upon 
 the declining of the rocks, as one would expect their 
 sliding down. Amongst these, inhabit a goodly sort of 
 people, having monstrous gullets, or wens of flesh, growing 
 to their throats, some of which I have seen as big as an 
 hundred pound bag of silver hanging under their chins ; 
 among the women, especially, and that so ponderous, as 
 that to ease them, many wear linen cloth bound about 
 their head, and coming under the chin to support it; but 
 guis tumidum guttur miratur in Alpibus ? Their drinking 
 so much snow-water, is thought to be the cause of it ; the
 
 164G.] JOHN EVELYN. 233 
 
 men, using more wine, are not so strumous as the women. 
 The truth is, they are a peculiar race of people, and 
 many great water-drinkers here have not these prodigious 
 tumours ; it runs, as we say, in the blood, and is a vice in 
 the race, and renders them so ugly, shrivelled, and deformed 
 by its drawing the skin of the face down, that nothing can 
 be more frightful; to this add a strange puffing dress, furs, 
 and that barbarous language, being a mixture of corrupt 
 High German, French, and Italian. The people are of 
 great stature, extremely fierce and rude, yet very honest 
 and trusty. 
 
 This night, through almost inaccessible heights, we came 
 in prospect of Mons Sempronius, now Mount Sampion, 
 which has on its summit a few huts and a chapel. Ap- 
 proaching this, Captain Wray's water-spaniel (a huge filthy 
 cur that had followed him out of England) hunted a herd 
 of goats down the rocks into a river made by the melting 
 of the snow. Arrived at our cold harbour (though the 
 house had a stove in every room) and, supping on cheese 
 and milk with wretched wine, we went to bed in cupboards* 
 so high from the floor, that we climbed them by a ladder ; 
 we were covered with feathers, that is, we lay between two 
 ticks stuffed with them, and all little enough to keep one 
 warm. The ceilings of the rooms are strangely low for 
 those tall people. The house was now (in September) half 
 covered with snow, nor is there a tree, or a bush, growing 
 within many miles. 
 
 From this uncomfortable place, we prepared to hasten, 
 away the next morning ; but, as we were getting on our 
 mules, comes a huge young fellow demanding money for 
 a goat which he affirmed that Captain Wray's dog had 
 killed; expostulating the matter, and impatient of staying 
 in the cold, we set spurs and endeavoured to ride away, 
 when a multitude of people being by this time gotten 
 together about us, (for it being Sunday morning and 
 attending for the priest to say mass) they stopped our 
 mules, beat us off our saddles, and, disarming us of our 
 carbines, drew us into one of the rooms of our lodging, 
 and set a guard upon us. Thus, we continued prisoners 
 till mass was ended, and then came half a score grim 
 
 * They have such in Wales.
 
 234 DIARY OF [MOUNT SAMPION, 
 
 Swiss, who, taking on them to be magistrates, sate down on 
 the table, and condemned us to pay a pistole for the goat, 
 and ten more for attempting to ride away, threatening 
 that if we did not pay it speedily, they would send us to 
 prison, and keep us to a day of public justice, where, as 
 they perhaps would have exaggerated the crime, for they 
 pretended we had primed our carbines and would have 
 shot some of them, (as indeed the Captain was about to 
 do) we might have had our heads cut off, as we were told 
 afterwards, for that amongst these rude people a very small 
 misdemeanour does often meet that sentence. Though 
 the proceedings appeared highly unjust,* on consultation 
 among ourselves, we thought it safer to rid ourselves out 
 of their hands, and the trouble we were brought into ; and 
 therefore we patiently laid down the money, and with fierce 
 countenances had our mules and arms delivered to us, and 
 glad we were to escape as we did. This was cold enter- 
 tainment, but our journey after was colder, the rest of the 
 way having been (as they told us) covered with snow since 
 the Creation ; no man remembered it to be without ; and 
 because, by the frequent snowing, the tracts are continually 
 filled up, we passed by several tall masts set up to guide 
 travellers, so as for many miles they stand in ken of one 
 another, like to our beacons. In some places, where there 
 is a cleft between two mountains, the snow fills it up, 
 whilst the bottom, being thawed, leaves as it were a frozen 
 arch of snow, and that so hard as to bear the greatest 
 weight ; for as it snows often, so it perpetually freezes, of 
 which I was so sensible that it flawed the very skin of my 
 face. 
 
 Beginning now to descend a little, Captain Wray's horse 
 (that was our sumpter and carried all our baggage) plunging 
 through a bank of loose snow, slid down a frightful precipice, 
 which so incensed the choleric cavalier, his master, that 
 he was sending a brace of bullets into the poor beast, lest 
 our guide should recover him, and run away with his 
 burden ; but, just as he was lifting up his carbine, we gave 
 such a shout, and so pelted the horse with snow-balls, as 
 with all his might plunging through the snow, he fell from 
 another steep place into another bottom, near a path we 
 
 * Surely these poor people were right, and this is not expressed with 
 Mr. Evelyn's usual liberality.
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 235 
 
 were to pass. It was yet a good while ere we got to him, 
 but at last we recovered the place, and, easing him of his 
 charge, hauled him out of the snow, where he had been 
 certainly frozen in, if we had not prevented it, before night. 
 It was as we judged almost two miles that he had slid and 
 fallen, yet without any other harm than the benumbing 
 of his limbs for the present, but, with lusty rubbing and 
 chafing he began to move, and, after a little walking, per- 
 formed his journey well enough. All this way, affrighted 
 with the disaster of this horse, we trudged on foot, driving 
 our mules before us; sometimes we fell, sometimes we 
 slid, through this ocean of snow, which after October is 
 impassable. Towards night, we came into a larger way, 
 through vast woods of pines, which clothe the middle parts 
 of these rocks. Here, they were burning some to make 
 pitch and rosin, peeling the knotty branches, as we do to 
 make charcoal, reserving what melts from them, which 
 hardens into pitch. We passed several cascades of dis- 
 solved snow, that had made channels of formidable depth 
 in the crevices of the mountains, and with such a fearful 
 roaring as we could hear it for seven long miles. It is 
 from these sources that the Rhone and the Rhine, which 
 pass through all France and Germany, derive their originals. 
 Late at night, we got to a town called Briga, at the foot 
 of the Alps, in the Valteline. Almost every door had 
 nailed on the outside and next the street a bear's, wolfs, 
 or fox's head, and divers of them all three ; a savage kind 
 of sight, but, as the Alps are full of the beasts, the people 
 often kill them. The next morning, we returned to our 
 guide, and took fresh mules, and another to conduct us to 
 the Lake of Geneva, passing through as pleasant a country 
 as that we had just travelled was melancholy and trouble- 
 some. A strange and sudden change it seemed, for the 
 reverberation of the sun-beams from the mountains and 
 rocks that like walls range it on both sides, not above two 
 flight-shots in breadth, for a very great number of miles, 
 renders the passage excessively hot. Through such ex- 
 tremes we continued our journey, that goodly river, the 
 Rhone, gliding by us in a narrow and quiet channel almost 
 in the middle of this Canton, fertilizing the country for 
 grass and corn, which grow here in abundance. 
 
 "We arrived this night at Sion, a pretty town and city, a
 
 236 DIARY OF [siov, 
 
 bishop's seat, and the head of Yalesia. There is a castle, 
 and the Bishop who resides in it, has both civil and eccle- 
 siastical jurisdiction. Our host, as the custom of these 
 Cantons is, was one of the chiefest of the town, and had 
 been a Colonel in France ; he treated us with extreme 
 civility, and was so displeased at the usage we received at 
 Mount Sampion, that he would needs give us a letter to 
 the Governor of the country, who resided at St. Maurice, 
 which was in our way to Geneva, to revenge the affront. 
 This was a true old blade, and had been a very curious 
 virtuoso, as we found by a handsome collection of books, 
 medals, pictures, shells, and other antiquities. He showed 
 two heads and horns of the true Capricorn, which animal he 
 told us was frequently killed among the mountains ; one 
 branch of them was as much as I could well lift, and near 
 as high as my head, not much unlike the greater sort of 
 goat's, save that they bent forwards, by help whereof they 
 climb up and hang on inaccessible rocks, from whence the 
 inhabitants now and then shoot them. They speak pro- 
 digious things of their leaping from crag to crag, and of 
 their sure footing, notwithstanding their being cloven- 
 footed, unapt (one would think) to take hold and walk so 
 steadily on those horrible ridges as they do. The Colonel 
 would have given me one of these beams, but the want of 
 a convenience to carry it along with me, caused me to 
 refuse his courtesy. He told me that in the castle there 
 were some Roman and Christian antiquities, and he had 
 some inscriptions in his own garden. He invited us to 
 his country-house, where he said he had better pictures, 
 and other rarities ; but, our time being short, I could not 
 persuade my companions to stay and visit the places he 
 would have had us seen, nor the offer he made to show us 
 the hunting of the bear, wolf, and other wild beasts. 
 The next morning, having presented his daughter, a pretty 
 well-fashioned young woman, with a small ruby ring, we 
 parted somewhat late from our generous host. 
 
 Passing through the same pleasant valley between the 
 horrid mountains on either hand, like a gallery many miles 
 in length, we got to Martigni, where also we were well 
 entertained. The houses in this country are all built of 
 fir boards, planed within, low, and seldom above one story. 
 The people very clownish and rusticly clad, after a very
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 037 
 
 odd fashion, for the most part in blue cloth, very whole 
 and warm, with little variety or distinction betwixt the 
 gentleman and common sort, by a law of their country 
 being exceedingly frugal. Add to this, their great honesty 
 and fidelity, though exacting enough for what they part 
 with. I saw not one beggar. We paid the value of 
 twenty shillings English, for a day's hire of one horse. 
 Every man goes with a sword by his side, the whole 
 country well-disciplined, and indeed impregnable, which 
 made the Romans have such ill success against them ; one 
 lusty Swiss at their narrow passages is sufficient to repel 
 a legion. It is a frequent thing here for a young trades- 
 man, or farmer, to leave his wife and children for twelve or 
 fifteen years, and seek his fortune in the wars in Spain, 
 France, Italy, or Germany, and then return again to 
 work. I look upon this country to be the safest spot of 
 all Europe, neither envied, nor envying ; nor are any of 
 them rich, nor poor; they live in great simplicity and 
 tranquillity ; and, though of the fourteen Cantons half be 
 Roman Catholics, the rest Reformed, yet they mutually 
 agree, and are confederate with Geneva, and are its only 
 security against its potent neighbours, as they themselves 
 are from being attacked by the greater potentates, by the 
 mutual jealousy of their neighbours, as either of them 
 would be overbalanced, should the Swiss, who are wholly 
 mercenary and auxiliaries, be subjected to France, or 
 Spain. 
 
 We were now arrived at St. Maurice, a large handsome 
 town and residence of the President, where justice is done. 
 To him, we presented our letter from Sion, and made 
 known the ill usage we had received for killing a wretched 
 goat, which so incensed him, as he sware if we would stay 
 he would not only help us to our money again, but most 
 severely punish the whole rabble ; but our desire of revenge 
 had by this time subsided, and glad we were to be gotten 
 so near France, which we reckoned as good as home. He 
 courteously invited us to dine with him ; but we excused 
 ourselves, and, returning to our inn, whilst we were eating 
 something before we took horse, the Governor had caused 
 two pages to bring us a present of two great vessels of 
 -covered plate full of excellent wine, in which we drank his 
 health, and rewarded the youths ; they were two vast
 
 DIARY OF [BEVERETTA, 
 
 bowls supported by two Swisses, handsomely wrought 
 after the German manner. This civility and that of our 
 host at Sion, perfectly reconciled us to the highlanders ; 
 and so, proceeding on our journey, we passed this afternoon 
 through the gate which divides the Valais from the Duchy 
 of Savoy, into which we were now entering, and so, through 
 Montei, we arrived that evening at Beveretta. Being ex- 
 tremely weary and complaining of my head, and finding 
 little accommodation in the house., I caused one of our 
 hostess's daughters to be removed out of her bed, and went 
 immediately into it whilst it was yet warm, being so heavy 
 with pain and drowsiness that I would not stay to have 
 the sheets changed ; but I shortly after paid dearly for my 
 impatience, falling sick of the small-pox so soon as I came 
 to Geneva, for by the smell of frankincense and the tale 
 the good woman told me of her daughter having had an 
 ague, I afterwards concluded she had been newly recovered 
 of the small-pox. Notwithstanding this, I went with my 
 company, the next day, hiring a bark to carry us over the 
 lake ; and indeed sick as I was, the weather was so serene 
 and bright, the water so calm, and air so temperate, that 
 never had travellers a sweeter passage. Thus, we sailed 
 the whole length of the lake, about thirty miles, the coun- 
 tries bordering on it (Savoy and Berne) affording one 
 of the most delightful prospects in the world, the Alps 
 covered with snow, though at a great distance, yet show- 
 ing their aspiring tops. Through this lake, the river 
 Rhodanus passes with that velocity as not to mingle with 
 its exceeding deep waters, which are very clear, and breed 
 the most celebrated trout for largeness and goodness of 
 any in Europe. I have ordinarily seen one of three feet 
 in length sold in the market for a small price, and such 
 we had in the lodging where we abode, which was at the 
 White Cross. All this while, I held up tolerably, and the 
 next morning having a letter for Signer John Diodati, the 
 famous Italian minister and translator of the Holy Bible 
 into that language, I went to his house, and had a great 
 deal of discourse with that learned person. He told me 
 he had been in England, driven by tempest into Deal, 
 wliilst sailing for Holland, that he had seen London, and 
 was exceedingly taken with the civilities he received. He 
 so much approved of our Church-government by Bishops,
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 39 
 
 that he told me the French Protestants would make no 
 scruple to submit to it and all its pomp, had they a King 
 of the Keformed Religion as we had. He exceedingly 
 deplored the difference now between his Majesty and the 
 Parliament. After dinner, came one Monsieur Saladine, 
 with his little pupil, the Earl of Caernarvon, to visit us, 
 offering to carry us to the principal places of the town ; 
 but, being now no more able to hold up my head, I was 
 constrained to keep my chamber, imagining that my very 
 eyes would have dropped out ; and this night I felt such 
 a stinging about me, that I could not sleep. In the morn- 
 ing, I was very ill, but sending for a doctor he persuaded 
 me to be let blood. He was a very learned old man, and, 
 as he said, he had been physician to Gustavus the Great, 
 King of Sweden, when he passed this way into Italy, under 
 the name of Monsieur Gars, the initial letters of Gustavus 
 Adolphus Rex Suecia3, and of our famous Duke of Buck- 
 ingham, on his returning out of Italy. He afterwards 
 acknowledged that he should not have bled me, had he 
 suspected the small-pox, which brake out a day after. 
 He afterwards purged me, and applied leeches, and God 
 knows what this^ould have produced, if the spots had not 
 appeared, for he was thinking of blooding me again. They 
 now kept me warm in bed for sixteen days, tended by a 
 vigilant Swiss matron, whose monstrous throat, when I 
 sometimes awaked out of unquiet slumbers, would affright 
 me. After the pimples were come forth, which were not 
 many, I had much ease as to pain, but infinitely afflicted 
 with heat and noisomeness. By God's mercy, after five 
 weeks' keeping my chamber, I went abroad. Monsieur 
 Saladine and his lady sent me many refreshments. Mon- 
 sieur Le Chat, my physician, to excuse his letting me 
 blood, told me it was so burnt and vicious as it would have 
 proved the plague, or spotted fever, had he proceeded by 
 any other method. On my recovering sufficiently to go 
 abroad, I dined at Monsieur Saladine's, and, in the after- 
 noon, went across the water on the side of the lake, and 
 took a lodging that stood exceedingly pleasant, about half 
 a mile from the city for the better airing ; but I stayed 
 only one night, having no company there, save my pipe ; 
 so, the next day, I caused them to row me about the lake 
 as far as the great stone, which they call Neptune's Rock,
 
 240 DIARY OF [GENEVA, 
 
 and on which they say sacrifice was anciently offered to 
 him. Thence, I landed at certain cherry-gardens and 
 pretty villas by the side of the lake, and exceedingly 
 pleasant. Returning, I visited their conservatories of fish ; 
 in which were trouts of six and seven feet long, as they 
 affirmed. 
 
 The Rhone, which parts the city in the midst, dips into 
 a cavern underground, about six miles from it, and after- 
 wards rises again, and runs its open course, like our Mole, 
 or Swallow, by Dorking, in Surrey. The next morning, 
 (being Thursday) I heard Dr. Diodati preach in Italian, 
 many of that country, especially of Lucca, his native 
 place, being inhabitants of Geneva, and of the Reformed 
 Religion. 
 
 The town, lying between Germany, France, and Italy, 
 those three tongues are familiarly spoken by the inhabi- 
 tants. It is a strong well-fortified city, part of it built on 
 a rising ground. The houses are not despicable, but the 
 high pent-houses, (for I can hardly call them cloisters, 
 being all of wood) through which the people pass dry and 
 in the shade, winter and summer, exceedingly deform the 
 fronts of the buildings. Here are abundance of book- 
 sellers ; but their books are of ill impressions ; these, with 
 watches (of which store are made here), crystal, and excel- 
 lent screwed guns, are the staple commodities. All pro- 
 visions are good and cheap. 
 
 The town-house is fairly built of stone ; the portico has 
 four black marble columns ; and, on a table of the same, 
 tinder the city arms, a demi-eagle and cross, between 
 cross-keys, is a motto, " Post Tenebras Lux," and this 
 inscription : 
 
 Quum anno 1535 [profligata Romana Anti-Christi : Tyrannide, abro- 
 gatisq ; ejus superstitionibus, sacro-sancta Christ! Religio hie in suam 
 puritatem, Ecclesia in meliorem ordinem singular! Dei beneficio reposita, 
 et simul pulsis fugatisq ; hostibus, urbs ipsa in suam libertatem, non 
 sine insigni miraculo, restituta fuerit ; Senatus Populusq ; Genevensis 
 Monumentum hoc perpetuae memorise causa, fieri atque hoc loco erigi 
 <:uravit, quod suam erga Deum gratitudinem ad posteros testatum fuerit. 
 
 The territories about the town are not so large as many 
 ordinary gentlemen have about their country -farms, for 
 which cause they are in continual watch, especially on the
 
 1C4C.] JOHN EVELYN. 241 
 
 Savoy side ; but, in case of any siege the Swiss are at 
 hand, as this inscription in the same place shows, toward 
 
 the street : 
 
 D.O.M.S. 
 
 Anno a vera Religione divinitus cum veteri Libertate Genevse resti- 
 tuta, et quasi novo Jubilseo ineunte, plurimis vitatis domi et foris 
 insidiis et superatis tempestatibus, et cum Helvetiorum Primari Tigurini 
 sequo jure in societatem perpetuam nobiscum venerint, et veteres fidis- 
 simi socii Bernenses prius vinculum novo adstrinxerint, S.P.Q.G. quod 
 felix esse velit D. 0. M. tanti benificii monumentum consecrarunt, anno 
 temporis ultimi cio.io.xxxiv. 
 
 In the Senate-house, were fourteen ancient urns, dug up 
 as they were removing earth in the fortifications. 
 
 A little out of the town, is a spacious field, which they 
 call Campus Martius ; and well it may be so termed, with 
 better reason, than that at Rome at present (which is no 
 more a field, but all built into streets), for here on every 
 Sunday, after the evening devotions, this precise people 
 permit their youths to exercise arms, and shoot in guns, 
 and in the long and cross bows, in which they are exceed- 
 ingly expert, reputed to be as dexterous as any people in 
 the world. To encourage this, they yearly elect him who 
 has won most prizes at the mark, to be their king, as the 
 king of the long-bow, gun, or cross-bow. He then wears 
 that weapon in his hat in gold, with a crown over it, made 
 fast to the hat like a brooch. In this field, is a long house 
 wherein their arms and furniture are kept in several 
 places very neatly. To this joins a hall where, at certain 
 times, they meet and feast ; in the glass- windows are the 
 arms and names of their kings [of arms] . At the side of 
 the field, is a very noble Pali-Mall, but it turns with an 
 elbow. There is also a bowling-place, a tavern, and a 
 trey-table, and here they ride their menaged horses. It 
 is also the usual place of public execution of those who 
 suffer for any capital crime, though committed in another 
 country, by which law divers fugitives have been put to 
 death, who have fled hither to escape punishment in their 
 own country. Amongst other severe punishments here, 
 adultery is death. Having seen this field, and played a 
 game at mall, I supped withMr. Saladine. 
 
 On Sunday, I heard Dr. Diodati preach in French, and 
 after the French mode, in a gown with a cape, and his hat 
 VOL. T. R
 
 42 DIARY OF [GENEVA, 
 
 on. The Church Government is severely Presbyterian, 
 after the discipline of Calvin and Beza, who set it up, but 
 nothing so rigid as either our Scots or English sectaries of 
 that denomination. In the afternoon, Monsieur Morice, 
 a most learned young person and excellent poet, chief 
 Professor of the University, preached at St. Peter's, a spa- 
 cious Gothic fabric. This was heretofore a cathedral and 
 a reverend pile. It has four turrets, on one of which 
 stands a continual sentinel; in another, cannons are 
 mounted. The church is very decent within ; nor have 
 they at all defaced the painted windows, which are full of 
 pictures of saints ; nor the stalls, which are all carved with 
 the history of our Blessed Saviour. 
 
 In the afternoon, I went to see the young townsmen 
 exercise in Mars' Field, where the prizes were pewter- 
 plates and dishes ; 'tis said that some have gained compe- 
 tent estates by what they have thus won. Here, I first 
 saw huge balistse, or cross-bows, shot in, being such as they 
 formerly used in wars, before great guns were known; they 
 were placed in frames, and had great screws to bend them, 
 doing execution at an incredible distance. They were 
 most accurate at the long-bow and musket, rarely missing 
 the smallest mark. I was as busy with the carbine I 
 brought from Brescia, as any of them. After every shot, 
 I found them go into a long house, and cleanse their guns 
 before they charged again. 
 
 On Monday, I was invited to a little garden without 
 the works, where were many rare tulips, anemones, and 
 other choice flowers. The Uhone running athwart the 
 town out of the Lake, makes half the city a suburb, which, 
 in imitation of Paris, they call St. Germain's Fauxbourg, 
 and it has a church of the same name. On two wooden 
 bridges that cross the river are several water-mills, and 
 shops of trades, especially smiths and cutlers ; between 
 the bridges is an island, in the midst of which is a very 
 ancient tower, said to have been built by Julius Caesar. 
 At the end of the other bridge is the mint, and a fair 
 sun-dial. 
 
 Passing again by the Town-house, I saw a large croco- 
 dile hanging in chains ; and against the wall of one of the 
 chambers, seven judges were painted without hands, except 
 one in the middle, who has but one hand ; I know not the
 
 1646.] JOHN EVELYN. 243 
 
 story. The Arsenal is at the end of this building, well- 
 furnished and kept. 
 
 After dinner, Mr. Morice led us to the college, a fair 
 structure ; in the lower part are the schools, which consist 
 of nine classes; and a hall above, where the students 
 assemble ; also a good library. They showed us a very 
 ancient Bible, of about 300 years old, in the vulgar French, 
 and a MS. in the old Monkish character : here have the 
 Professors their lodgings. I also went to the Hospital, 
 which is very commodious but the Bishop's Palace is now 
 a prison. 
 
 This town is not much celebrated for beautiful women, 
 for, even at this distance from the Alps; the gentlewomen 
 have something full throats, but our Captain Wray (after- 
 wards Sir William, eldest son of that Sir Christopher, who 
 had both been in arms against his Majesty for the Parlia- 
 ment) fell so mightily in love with one of Monsieur Saladine's 
 daughters that, with much persuasion, he could not be pre- 
 vailed on to think on his journey into France, the season 
 now coming on extremely hot. 
 
 My sickness and abode here cost me forty-five pistoles 
 of gold to my host, and five to my honest doctor, who for 
 six weeks' attendance and the apothecary thought it so 
 generous a reward that, at my taking leave, he presented 
 me with his advice for the regimen of my health, written 
 with his own hand in Latin. This regimen I much 
 observed, and I bless God passed the journey without 
 inconvenience from sickness, but it was an extraordinarily 
 hot unpleasant season and journey, by reason of the 
 craggy ways. 
 
 5th July. We took, or rather purchased, a boat, for it 
 could not be brought back against the stream of the 
 Rhone. We were two days going to Lyons, passing 
 many admirable prospects of rocks and cliffs, and near 
 the town down a very steep declivity of water for a full 
 mile. From Lyons, we proceeded the next morning, 
 taking horse to Roanne, and lay that night at Feurs. At 
 Roanne, we indulged ourselves with the best that all France 
 affords, for here the provisions are choice and plentiful, 
 so as the supper we had might have satisfied a prince. 
 We lay in damask beds, and were treated like emperors. 
 The town is one of the neatest built in all France, on the 
 
 R 2
 
 244 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 brink of the Loire ; and here we agreed with an old fisher 
 to row us as far as Orleans. The first night, we came as 
 far as Nevers, early enough to see the town, the Cathedral 
 (St. Gyre), the Jesuits' College, and the Castle, a Palace 
 of the Duke's, with the bridge to it nobly built. 
 
 The next day, we passed by La Charite, a pretty town, 
 somewhat distant from the river. Here I lost my faithful 
 spaniel (Piccioli), who had followed me from Rome; it 
 seems he had been taken up by some of the Governor's; 
 pages, or footmen, without recovery; which was a great dis- 
 pleasure to me, because the cur had many useful qualities. 
 
 The next day, we arrived at Orleans, taking our turns 
 to row, of which I reckon my share came to little less than: 
 twenty leagues. Sometimes, we footed it through pleasant 
 fields and meadows ; sometimes, we shot at fowls, and other 
 birds ; nothing came amiss : sometimes, we played at 
 cards, whilst others sung, or were composing verses ; for 
 we had the great poet, Mr. Waller, in our company, and 
 some other ingenious persons. 
 
 At Orleans, we abode but one day ; the next, leaving 
 our mad Captain behind us, I arrived at Paris, rejoiced 
 that, after so many disasters and accidents in a tedious 
 peregrination, I was gotten so near home, and here I 
 resolved to rest myself before I went further. 
 
 It was now October, and the only time that in my whole 
 life I spent most idly, tempted from my more profitable 
 recesses ; but I soon recovered my better resolutions and 
 fell to my study, learning the High Dutch and Spanish 
 tongues, and now and then refreshing my dancing, and 
 such exercises as I had long omitted, and which are not in. 
 much reputation amongst the sober Italians. 
 
 1647, 28th January. I changed my lodging in the Place 
 de Monsieur de Metz, near the Abbey of St. Germains ; 
 and thence, on the 12th February, to another in Rue 
 Columbier, where I had a very fair apartment, which cost 
 me four pistoles per month. The 18th, I frequented a 
 course of Chemistry, the famous Monsieur Le Febure 
 operating upon most of the nobler processes. March 3rd, 
 Monsieur Mercure began to teach me on the lute, though 
 to small perfection. 
 
 In May, I fell sick, and had very weak eyes ; for which 
 I was four times let blood.
 
 1647.] JOHN EVELYN. 245 
 
 22nd May. My valet (Herbert) robbed me of clothes 
 and plate, to the value of threescore pounds; but, through 
 the diligence of Sir Richard Browne, his Majesty's Resi- 
 dent at the Court of France, and with whose lady and 
 family I had contracted a great friendship (and particularly 
 set my affections on a daughter), I recovered most of them, 
 obtaining of the Judge, with no small difficulty, that the 
 process against the thief should not concern his life, being 
 his first offence. 
 
 10th June. We concluded about my marriage, in order 
 to which I went to St. Germains, where his Majesty, then 
 Prince of Wales, had his court, to desire of Dr. Earle, 
 then one of his chaplains (since Dean of Westminster, 
 Clerk of the Closet, and Bishop of Salisbury) that he 
 would accompany me to Paris, which he did; and, on 
 Thursday, 27th June, 1647, he married us in Sir Richard 
 Browne's chapel, betwixt the hours of eleven and twelve, 
 some few select friends being present : and this being 
 Corpus Christi feast was solemnly observed in this country ; 
 the streets were sumptuously hung with tapestry, and 
 strewed with flowers. 
 
 10th September. Being called into England, to settle 
 my affairs after an absence of four years, I took leave of 
 the Prince and Queen, leaving my Wife, yet very young, 
 under the care of an excellent lady and prudent mother. 
 
 4th October. I sealed and declared my Will, and that 
 morning went from Paris, taking my journey through 
 Rouen, Dieppe, Yille-dieu, and St. Vallerie, where I stayed 
 one day with Mr. Waller, with whom I had some affairs, 
 and for which cause I took this circle to Calais, where I 
 arrived on the llth, and that night embarking in the 
 packet-boat, was by one o'clock got safe to Dover; for 
 which I heartily put up my thanks to God who had con- 
 ducted me safe to my own country, and been merciful to 
 me through so many aberrations. Hence, taking post, I 
 arrived at London the next day at evening, being the 
 second of October, new style. 
 
 5th. I came to Wotton, the place of my birth, to 
 my brother, and on the 10th to Hampton Court, where 
 I had the honour to kiss his Majesty's hand, and give him 
 an account of several things I had in charge, he being 
 now in the power of those execrable villains who not long
 
 246 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 after murdered him. I lay at my cousin, Serjeant Hat- 
 ton's, at Thames Ditton, whence, on the 13th, I went to 
 London. 
 
 14th. To Sayes Court, at Deptford, in Kent (since my 
 house), where I found Mr. Pretyman, my Wife's uncle, 
 who had charge of it and the estate about it, during my 
 father-in-law's residence in France. On the 15th, I again 
 occupied my own chambers in the Middle Temple. 
 
 9th November. My sister opened to me her marriage 
 with Mr. Glanville. 
 
 1647-8, 14th January. From London, I went to Wot- 
 ton, to see my young Nephew ; and thence to Baynards, 
 [in Ewhurst] to visit my Brother Richard. 
 
 5th February. Saw a tragi-comedy acted in the Cock- 
 pit, after there had been none of these diversions for many 
 years during the war. 
 
 28th. I went with my noble friend, Sir William Ducy, 
 (afterwards Lord Downe) to Thistleworth, where we dined 
 with Sir Clepesby Crew, and afterwards to see the rare 
 miniatures of Peter Oliver, and rounds of plaster, and 
 then the curious flowers of Mr. Barill's garden, who has 
 some good medals and pictures. Sir Clepesby has fine 
 Indian hangings, and a very good chimney-piece of water- 
 colours, by Breughel, which I bought for him. 
 
 26th April. There was a great uproar in London, that 
 the rebel army quartering at Whitehall, would plunder 
 the City, on which there was published a Proclamation 
 for all to stand on their guard. 
 
 4th May. Came up the Essex petitioners for an agree- 
 ment betwixt his Majesty and the rebels. The 16th, the 
 Surrey men addressed the Parliament for the same ; of 
 which some of them were slain and murdered by Crom- 
 well's guards, in the new Palace Yard. I now sold the 
 impropriation of South Mailing, near Lewes, in Sussex, to 
 Mr. Kemp and Alcock, for 3000/. 
 
 30th. There was a rising now in Kent, my Lord 
 of Norwich being at the head of them. Their first ren- 
 dezvous was in Broome-field next my house at Sayes 
 Court, whence they went to Maidstone, and so to Col- 
 chester, where was that memorable siege. 
 
 27th June. I purchased the manor of Hurcott, in. 
 Worcestershire, of my brother George, for 3,300/.
 
 1648.] JOHN EVELYN. 247 
 
 1st July. I sate for ray picture, in which there is a 
 Death's head, to Mr. Walker, that excellent painter. 
 
 10th. News was brought me of my Lord Francis Villiers 
 being slain by the rebels near Kingston. 
 
 16th August. I went to Woodcote (in Epsom) to the 
 wedding of my Brother, Richard, who married the daughter 
 and co-heir of Esquire Minn, lately deceased ; by which 
 he had a great estate both in land and money on the 
 death of a brother. The coach in which the bride and 
 bridegroom were, was overturned in coming home; but 
 no harm was done. 
 
 28th. To London from Sayes Court, and saw the cele- 
 brated follies of Bartholomew Fair. 
 
 16th September. Came my lately married Brother, 
 Richard, and his Wife, to visit me, when I showed them 
 Greenwich, and her Majesty's Palace, now possessed by 
 the rebels. 
 
 28th. I went to Albury, to visit the Countess of 
 Arundel, and returned to Wotton. 
 
 31st October. I went to see my manor of Preston 
 Beckhelvyn, and the Cliff house. 
 
 29th November. Myself, with Mr. Thomas Offley, and 
 Lady Gerrard, christened my Niece Mary, eldest daughter 
 of my Brother, George Evelyn, by my Lady Cotton, his 
 second wife. I presented my Niece a piece of plate which 
 cost me 18/., and caused this inscription to be set on it : 
 
 In memoriam facti : 
 
 Anno clo.lx.xlnx. Cal. Decem. vin. Virginum castiss : Xtianorum inno- 
 centiss : Nept : suavis : Marise, Johan : Evelynus Avunculus et Sus- 
 ceptor Vasculum hoc cum Epigraphe L. M. Q. D. 
 
 Ave Maria Gratia sis plena ; Dominus tecum. 
 
 2nd December. This day I sold my manor of Hurcott 
 for 3,400/. to one Mr. Bridges. 
 
 13th. The Parliament now sat up the whole night, and 
 endeavoured to have concluded the Isle of Wight Treaty ; 
 but were surprised by the rebel army ; the Members dis- 
 persed, and great confusion every where in expectation of 
 what would be next. 
 
 17th. I heard an Italian sermon, in Mercers' Chapel, 
 one Dr. Middleton, an acquaintance of mine, preaching.
 
 048 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 18th. I got privately into the council of the rebel 
 army, at Whitehall, where I heard horrid villanies. 
 
 This was a most exceeding wet year, neither frost nor 
 snow all the winter for more than six days in all. Cattle 
 died every where of a murrain. 
 
 1648-9, 1st January. I had a lodging and some books at 
 my father-in-law's house, Sayes Court. 
 
 2nd. I went to see my old friend and fellow-traveller, Mr. 
 Henshaw,whohadtwo rarepieces of Stenwyck's perspective. 
 
 17th. To London. I heard the rebel, Peters, incite the 
 rebel powers met in the Painted Chamber, to destroy his 
 Majesty, and saw that archtraitor, Bradshaw, who not long 
 after condemned him. 
 
 19th. I returned home, passing an extraordinary danger 
 of being drowned by our wherries falling foul in the night 
 on another vessel then at anchor, shooting the bridge at 
 three quarters' ebb, for which His mercy God Almighty be 
 praised. 
 
 21st. Was published my translation of Liberty and Ser- 
 vitude, for the preface of which I was severely threatened. 
 
 22nd. I went through a course of chymistry, at Sayes 
 Court. Now was the Thames frozen over, and horrid 
 tempests of wind. 
 
 The villany of the rebels proceeding now so far as to try, 
 condemn, and murder our excellent King on the 30th of 
 this month, struck me with such horror, that I kept the 
 day of his martyrdom a fast, and would not be present at 
 that execrable wickedness, receiving the sad account of it 
 from my brother George, and Mr. Owen, who came to visit 
 me this afternoon, and recounted all the circumstances. 
 
 1st February. Now were Duke Hamilton, the Earl of 
 Norwich, Lord Capell, &c. at their trial before the rebels' 
 New Court of Injustice. 
 
 15th. I went to see the collection of one Trean, a rich 
 merchant, who had some good pictures, especially a rare 
 perspective of Stenwyck ; from thence, to other virtuosos. 
 
 The painter, La Neve, has an Andromeda, but I think it 
 a copy after Vandyke from Titian, for the original is in 
 France. Webb, at the Exchange, has some rare things in 
 miniature of Breughel's, also Putti,* in twelve squares, that 
 were plundered from Sir James Palmer. 
 
 * Putti Boys' Heads.
 
 1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 249 
 
 At Du Bois, we saw two tables of Putti, that were gotten, 
 I know not how, out of the Castle of St. Angelo, by old 
 Petit, thought to be Titian's ; he had some good heads of 
 Palma, and one of Stenwyck. Bellcar showed us an excel- 
 lent copy of his Majesty's Sleeping Venus and the Satyr, 
 with other figures ; for now they had plundered, sold, and 
 dispersed a world of rare paintings of the King's, and his 
 loyal subjects. After all, Sir William Ducy showed me 
 some excellent things in miniature, and in oil of Holbein's, 
 Sir Thomas More's head, and a whole length figure of 
 Edward VI., which were certainly his Majesty's ; also a 
 picture of Queen Elizabeth ; the Lady Isabella Thynne > a 
 .rare painting of Rothenhamer, being a Susanna ; and a 
 Magdalen, of Quintin, the blacksmith; also a Henry VIII., 
 of Holbein; and Francis the First, rare indeed, but of 
 whose hand I know not. 
 
 16th. Paris being now strictly besieged by the Prince de 
 Conde, my Wife being shut up with her Father and 
 Mother, I wrote a letter of consolation to her : and, on the 
 22nd, having recommended Obadiah Walker,* a learned 
 and most ingenious person, to be tutor to, and travel with 
 Mr. Hillyard's two sons, returned to Sayes Court. 
 
 25th. Came to visit me Dr. Joyliffe, discoverer of the 
 lymphatic vessels, and an excellent anatomist. 
 
 26th. Came to see me Captain George Evelyn,f my kins- 
 man, the great traveller, and one who believed himself a 
 better architect than really he was ; witness the portico in 
 the garden at Wotton ; yet the great room at Albury is 
 somewhat better understood. He had a large mind, but 
 over-built every thing. 
 
 27th. Came out of France my Wife's Uncle (Paris still 
 besieged) being robbed at sea by the Dunkirk pirates : I 
 lost, among other goods, my Wife's picture, painted by 
 Monsieur Bourdon. 
 
 5th March. Now were the Lords murdered in the Palace- 
 Yard.J 
 
 18th. Mr. Owen, a sequestered and learned minister, 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn has added in the margin against Walker's name, " Since an 
 apostate." He was Master of University College, Oxford. 
 
 + Son of Sir John Evelyn, of Godstone : see Pedigree in the History of 
 Surrey, vol. II., p. 150 ; but where he is by mistake stated to be brother of 
 Sir John. 
 
 J Duke Hamilton, the Earl of Holland, and Lord Capel.
 
 250 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 preached in my parlour, and gave us the Blessed Sacrament, 
 now wholly out of use in the parish churches, on which the 
 Presbyterians and fanatics had usurped. 
 
 21st. I received letters from Paris from my Wife, and 
 from Sir Richard [Browne] , with whom I kept a political 
 correspondence, with no small danger of being discovered. 
 
 25th. I heard the Common Prayer (a rare thing in 
 these days) in St. Peter's, at Paul's Wharf, London ; and, 
 in the morning, the Archbishop of Armagh, that pious 
 person and learned man, Usher, in Lincoln's Inn Chapel. 
 
 April 2nd. To London, and inventoried my moveables 
 that had hitherto been dispersed for fear of plundering : 
 wrote into France, touching my sudden resolutions of 
 coming over to them. On the 8th, again heard an excel- 
 lent discourse from Archbishop Usher, on Ephes. 4., 
 v. 26-27. 
 
 My Italian collection being now arrived, came Moulins, 
 the great chirurgeon, to see and admire the Tables of 
 Veins and Arteries, which I purchased and caused to be 
 drawn out of several human bodies at Padua. 
 
 llth. Received news out of France that peace was con- 
 cluded ; dined with Sir Joseph Evelyn, at Westminster ; 
 and on thelSth, I sawa private dissection, atMoulins'house. 
 
 1 7th. I fell dangerously ill of my head ; was blistered 
 and let blood behind the ears and forehead ; on the 23rd 
 began to have ease by using the fumes of camomile on 
 embers applied to my ears, after all the physicians had done 
 their best. 
 
 29th. I saw in London a huge ox bred in Kent, 17 feet 
 in length, and much higher than I could reach. 
 
 12th May. I purchased the Manor of Warley Magna, in 
 Essex : in the afternoon, went to see Gildron's collections 
 of paintings, where I found Mr. Endymion Porter, of his 
 late Majesty's Bedchamber. 
 
 17th. Went to Putney by water, in the barge with divers 
 ladies, to see the Schools, or Colleges, of the young gentle- 
 women.* 
 
 19th. To see a rare cabinet of one Delabarr, who had 
 some good paintings, especially a monk at his beads. 
 
 * Kept probably by Mrs. Bathsua Makins, the most learned woman of her 
 time ; she had been tutoress to the Princess Elizabeth, King Charles's second 
 daughter. There is a very rare portrait of her, by Marshall.
 
 1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 51 
 
 30th. Un-kingship was proclaimed, and his Majesty's 
 statues thrown down at St. Paul's Portico, and the 
 Exchange. 
 
 7th June. I visited Sir Arthur Hopton (brother to Sir 
 Ralph, Lord Hopton, that noble hero), who having been 
 Ambassador Extraordinary in Spain, sojourned some time 
 with my Father-in-law, at Paris ; a most excellent person. 
 Also Signdra Lucretia, a Greek Lady, whom I knew in 
 Italy, now come over with her husband, an English gentle- 
 man. Also, the Earl and Countess of Arundel, taking leave 
 of them and other friends now ready to depart for France. 
 This night was a scuffle between some rebel soldiers and 
 gentlemen about the Temple. 
 
 10th. Preached the Archbishop of Armagh in Lincoln's- 
 Inn, from Romans 5, verse' 13. I received the Blessed 
 Sacrament, preparatory to my journey. 
 
 13th. I dined with my worthy friend, Sir John Owen, 
 newly freed from sentence of death among the Lords that 
 suffered. With him was one Carew, who played incompa- 
 rably on the Welsh harp : afterwards, I treated divers ladies 
 of my relations, in Spring Garden. 
 
 This night was buried with great pomp, Dorislaus, slain 
 at the Hague, the villain who managed the trial against his 
 sacred Majesty. 
 
 17th. I got a pass from the rebel, Bradshaw, then in 
 great power. 
 
 20th. I went to Putney, and other places on the Thames, 
 to take prospects in crayon, to carry into France, where I 
 thought to have them engraved.* 
 
 2nd July. I went from Wotton to Godstone (the resi- 
 dence of Sir John Evelyn), where was also Sir John Evelyn 
 of Wilts, when I took leave of both Sir Johns and their 
 ladies. Mem. the prodigious memory of Sir John of Wilts 
 daughter, since married to Mr. W. Pierrepont, and mother 
 of the present Earl of Kingston. I returned to Sayes 
 Court, this night. 
 
 4th. Visited Lady Hatton, her Lord sojourning at Paris 
 with my father-in-law. 
 
 9th. Dined with Sir Walter Pye, and my good friend, 
 Mr. Eaton, afterwards a judge, who corresponded with me 
 in France. 
 
 * One of these he etched himself. The plate is now at Wotton.
 
 252 DIARY OF [GIUVESEND, 
 
 llth. Came to see me old Alexander Rosse, the divine 
 historian and poet ; Mr. Henshaw, Mr. Scudamore, and 
 other friends, to take leave of me. 
 
 12th. It was about three in the afternoon, I took oars 
 for Gravesend, accompanied by my cousin, Stephens, and 
 sister, Glanville, who there supped with me and returned ; 
 whence I took post immediately to Dover, where I arrived 
 by nine in the morning; and, about eleven that night, went 
 on board a bark guarded by a pinnace of eight guns ; this 
 being the first time the Packet-boat had obtained a convoy, 
 having several times before been pillaged. We had a good 
 passage, though chased for some hours by a pirate, but he 
 durst not attack our frigate, and we then chased him till 
 he got under the protection of the Castle at Calais. It was 
 a small privateer belonging to the Prince of Wales. I car- 
 ried over with me my servant, Richard Hoare, an incom- 
 parable writer of several hands, whom I afterwards pre- 
 ierred in the Prerogative Office* at the return of his 
 Majesty. Lady Catherine Scott, daughter of the Earl of 
 Norwich, followed us in a shallop, with Mr. Arthur Slingsby, 
 who left England incognito. At the entrance of the town, 
 the Lieutenant- Governor, being on his horse with the 
 .guards, let us pass courteously. I visited Sir Richard Lloyd, 
 an English gentleman, and walked in the church, where 
 the ornament about the high altar of black marble is very 
 fine, and there is a good picture of the Assumption. The 
 citadel seems to be impregnable, and the whole country 
 about it to be laid under water by sluices for many miles. 
 
 16th. We departed for Paris, in company with that very 
 pleasant lady (Lady Catharine Scott) and others. In all 
 this journey we were greatly apprehensive of parties, which 
 caused us to alight often out of our coach and walk sepa- 
 rately on foot, with our guns on our shoulders, in all 
 suspected places. 
 
 1st August. At three in the afternoon, we came to St. 
 Denis, saw the rarities of the church and treasury ; and 
 so to Paris that evening. 
 
 The next day, came to welcome me at dinner the Lord 
 High Treasurer Cottington, Sir Edward Hyde, Chancellor, 
 Sir Edward Nicholas, Secretary of State, Sir George Car- 
 
 * Where specimens of his writing in the entry of wills about this date may 
 now be seen.
 
 1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 253 
 
 teret, Governor of Jersey, and Dr. Earle, having now been 
 absent from my Wife above a year and a half. 
 
 18th. I went to St. Germains, to kiss his Majesty's 
 hand ; in the coach, which was my Lord Wilmot's, went 
 Mrs. Barlow, the King's mistress and mother to the Duke 
 of Monmouth, a brown, beautiful, bold, but insipid creature. 
 
 19th. I went to salute the French King and the Queen 
 Dowager; and, on the 21st, returned in one of the Queen's 
 coaches with my Lord Germain, Duke of Buckingham, 
 Lord Wentworth, and Mr. Croftes, since Lord Croftes. 
 
 7th September. Went with my Wife and dear Cousin 
 to St. Germains, and kissed the Queen-mother's hand; 
 dined with my Lord Keeper and Lord Hatton. Divers of 
 the great men of France came to see the King. The next 
 day, came the Prince of Conde. Returning to Paris, we 
 went to see the President Maison's palace, built castle- 
 wise, of a milk-white fine freestone ; the house not vast, 
 but well contrived, especially the stair-case, and the orna- 
 ments of Putti, about it. It is environed in a dry moat, 
 the offices under-ground, the gardens very excellent with 
 extraordinary long walks, set with elms, and a noble pros- 
 pect towards the forest, and on the Seine towards Paris. 
 Take it altogether, the meadows, walks, river, forest, corn- 
 ground, and vineyards, I hardly saw anything in Italy 
 exceed it. The iron gates are very magnificent. He has 
 pulled down a whole village to make room for his pleasure 
 about it. 
 
 12th. Dr. Crighton, a Scotchman, and one of his Majes- 
 ties chaplains, a learned Grecian who set out the Council 
 of Florence, preached. 
 
 13th. The King invited the Prince of Conde to supper 
 at St. Cloud ; there I kissed the Duke of York's hand in 
 the tennis-court, where I saw a famous match betwixt 
 Monsieur Saumeurs and Colonel Cooke, and so returned 
 to Paris. It was noised about that I was knighted, a 
 dignity I often declined. 
 
 1st October. Went with my cousin, Tuke (afterwards 
 Sir Samuel), to see the fountains of St. Cloud and Ruel; 
 and, after dinner, to talk with the poor ignorant and super- 
 stitious anchorite at Mount Calvary, and so to Paris. 
 
 2nd. Came Mr. William Coventry (afterward Sir Wil- 
 liam) and the Duke's secretary, &c., to visit me.
 
 254 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 5th. Dined with Sir George Radcliffe, the great favourite 
 of the late Earl of Straffbrd, formerly Lord Deputy of 
 Ireland, decapitated. 
 
 7th. To the Louvre, to visit the Countess of Moreton, 
 Governess to Madame. 
 
 15th. Came news of Drogheda being taken by the 
 rebels, and all put to the sword, which made us very sad, 
 fore-running the loss of all Ireland. 
 
 21st. I went to hear Dr. D'Avinson's lecture in the 
 physical garden, and see his laboratory, he being Prefect 
 of that excellent garden, and Professor Botanicus. 
 
 30th. I was at the funeral of one Mr. Downes, a sober 
 English gentleman. We accompanied his corpse to Cha- 
 renton, where he was interred in a cabbage- garden, yet 
 with the office of our church, which was said before in our 
 chapel at Paris. Here I saw also where they buried the 
 great soldier, Gassion, who had a tomb built over him like 
 a fountain, the design and materials mean enough. I 
 returned to Paris with Sir Philip Musgrave and Sir Mar- 
 maduke Langdale, since Lord Langdale. Memorandum. 
 This was a very sickly and mortal autumn. 
 
 5th November. I received divers letters out of England, 
 requiring me to come over about settling some of my 
 concerns. 
 
 7th. Dr. George Morley (since Bishop of Winchester) 
 preached in our chapel on Matthew iv., verse 3. 
 
 18th. I went with my father-in-law to his audience at 
 the French court, whe"re next the Pope's Nuncio he was 
 introduced by the master of ceremonies, and, after delivery 
 of his credentials, as from our King, since his Father's 
 murder, he was most graciously received by the King of 
 France and his mother, with whom he had a long audience. 
 This was in the Palais Cardinal. 
 
 After this, being presented to his Majesty and the 
 Queen Regent, I went to see the house built by the late 
 great Cardinal de Richelieu. The most observable thing 
 is the gallery, painted with the portraits of the most illus- 
 trious persons and signal actions in France, with innu- 
 merable emblems betwixt every table. In the middle of 
 the gallery, is a neat chapel, rarely paved in work and 
 devices of several sorts of marble, besides the altar-piece 
 and two statues of white marble, one of St. John, the
 
 1649.] JOHN EVELYN. 255 
 
 other of the Virgin Mary, by Bernini. The rest of the 
 apartments are rarely gilded and carved, with some good 
 modern paintings. In the presence hang three huge 
 branches of crystal. In the French King's bed-chamber, 
 is an alcove like another chamber, set as it were in a 
 chamber like a moveable box, with a rich embroidered 
 bed. The fabric of the palace is not magnificent, being 
 but of two stories; but the garden is so spacious as to 
 contain a noble basin and fountain continually playing, 
 and there is a mall, with an elbow, or turning, to protract 
 it. So I left his Majesty on the terrace, busy in seeing a 
 bull-baiting, and returned home in Prince Edward's coach 
 with Mr. Paul, the Prince Elector's agent. 
 
 19th. Visited Mr. Waller, where meeting Dr. Holden, 
 an English Sorbonne divine, we fell into some discourse 
 about religion. 
 
 28th December. Going to wait on Mr. Waller, I viewed 
 St. Stephen's church ; the building, though Gothic, is full 
 of carving ; within it is beautiful, especially the choir and 
 winding stairs. The glass is well painted, and the tapestry 
 hung up this day about the choir, representing the con- 
 version of Constantine, was exceeding rich. 
 
 I went to that excellent engraver, Du Bosse, for his 
 instruction about some difficulties in perspective which 
 were delivered in his book. 
 
 I concluded this year in health, for which I gave solemn 
 thanks to Almighty God.* 
 
 29th. I christened Sir Hugh Rilie's child with Sir 
 George Hadcliffe in our chapel, the parents being so poor 
 that they had provided no gossips, so as several of us 
 drawing lots it fell on me, the Dean of Peterborough (Dr. 
 Cosin) officiating : we named it Andrew, being on the eve 
 of that Apostle's day. 
 
 1649-50. 1st January. I began this Jubilee with the 
 public office in our chapel : dined at my Lady Herbert's, 
 wife of Sir Edward Herbert, afterwards Lord Keeper. 
 
 18th. This night was the Prince of Conde and his 
 brother carried prisoners to the Bois de Vincennes. 
 
 6th February. In the evening, came Signer Alessandro, 
 one of the Cardinal Mazarine's musicians, and a person of 
 
 * This he does not fail to repeat at the end of every year, but it will not 
 always be necessary to insert it in this work.
 
 256 DIARY OP [PARIS, 
 
 great name for his knowledge in that art, to visit my wife, 
 and sung before divers persons of quality in my chamber. 
 
 1st March. I went to see the masquerades, which was 
 very fantastic ; but nothing so quiet and solemn, as I found 
 it at Venice. 
 
 13th. Saw a triumph in Monsieur del Camp's Academy, 
 where divers of the French and English noblesse, especially 
 my Lord of Ossory, and Kichard, sons to the Marquis of 
 Ormond (afterwards Duke), did their exercises on horse- 
 back in noble equipage, before a world of spectators and 
 great persons, men and ladies. It ended in a collation. 
 
 25th April. I went out of town to see Madrid, a palace 
 so called, built by Francis the First. It is observable only 
 for its open manner of architecture, being much of terraces 
 and galleries one over another to the very roof, and for the 
 materials, which are most of earth painted like Porcelain, 
 or China-ware, whose colours appear very fresh, but is 
 very fragile. There are whole statues and relievos of this 
 pottery, chimney-pieces, and columns both within and 
 without. Under the chapel, is a chimney in the midst of 
 a room parted from the Salle des Gardes. The house is 
 fortified with a deep ditch, and has an admirable vista 
 towards the Bois de Boulogne and river. 
 
 30th. I went to see the collection of the famous 
 sculptor, Steffano de la Bella, returning now into Italy, 
 and bought some prints : and likewise visited Perelle, the 
 landscape graver. 
 
 3rd May. At the hospital of La Charite, I saw the ope- 
 ration of cutting for the stone. A child of eight or nine 
 years old underwent the operation with most extraordinary 
 patience, and expressing great joy when he saw the stone 
 was drawn. The use I made of it was, to give Almighty 
 God hearty thanks that I had not been subject to this 
 deplorable infirmity. 
 
 7th. I went with Sir Richard Browne's lady and my 
 wife, together with the Earl of Chesterfield, Lord Ossory 
 and his brother, to Vamber, a place near the city famous 
 for butter; when, coming homewards, being on foot, a 
 quarrel arose between Lord Ossory and a man in a garden, 
 who thrust Lord Ossory from the gate with uncivil lan- 
 guage ; on which our young gallants struck the fellow on 
 the pate, and bid him ask pardon, which he did with much
 
 1650.] JOHN EVELYN. 257 
 
 submission, and so we parted. But we were not gone far 
 before we heard a noise behind us, and saw people coming 
 with guns, swords, staves, and forks, and who followed, 
 flinging stones ; on which, we turned and were forced to 
 engage, and with our swords, stones, and the help of our 
 servants (one of whom had a pistol) made our retreat for near 
 a quarter of a mile, when we took shelter in a house, where 
 we were besieged, and at length forced to submit to be 
 prisoners. Lord Hatton, with some others, were taken 
 prisoners in the flight, and his lordship was confined under 
 three locks and as many doors in this rude fellow's master's 
 house, who pretended to be steward to Monsieur St. 
 Germain, one of the presidents of the Grand Chambre du 
 Parlement, 'and a canon of Notre Dame. Several of us 
 were much hurt. One of our lackeys escaping to Paris, 
 caused the bailiif of St. Germain to come with his guard 
 and rescue us. Immediately afterwards, came Monsieur 
 St. Germain himself, in great wrath on hearing that his 
 housekeeper was assaulted ; but, when he saw the King's 
 officers, the gentlemen and noblemen, with his Majesty's 
 Resident, and understood the occasion, he was ashamed 
 of the accident, requesting the fellow's pardon, and desir- 
 ing the ladies to accept their submission and a supper at 
 his house. It was ten o'clock at night ere we got to Paris, 
 guarded by Prince Griffith, (a Welch hero going under 
 that name, and well known in England for his extrava- 
 gances), together with the scholars of two academies, who 
 came forth to assist and meet us on horseback, and would 
 fain have alarmed the town we received the affront from ; 
 which, with much ado, we prevented. 
 
 12th. Complaint being come to the Queen and Court 
 of France of the affront we had received, the President 
 was ordered to ask pardon of Sir R. Browne, his Majesty's 
 Resident, and the fellow to make submission, and be dis- 
 missed. There came along with him the President de 
 Thou, son of the great Thuanus [the historian] , and so all 
 was composed. But I have often heard that gallant 
 gentleman, my Lord Ossory, affirm solemnly that in all 
 the conflicts he ever was in at sea or on land, (in the most 
 desperate of both which he had often been) he believed he 
 was never in so much danger as when these people rose 
 against us. He used to call it the bataille de Vambre, and 
 
 VOL. T. s
 
 253 DIARY OP [PARIS* 
 
 remember it with a great deal of mirth as an adventure, 
 en cavalier. 
 
 24th. We were invited by the Noble Academies to a 
 running at the ring, where were 'many brave horses, 
 gallants, and ladies, my Lord Stanhope entertaining us with 
 a collation. 
 
 12th June. Being Trinity-Sunday, the Dean of Peter- 
 borough preached ; after which, there was an ordination of 
 two divines, Durell and Brevent (the one was afterwards 
 Dean of Windsor, the other of Durham, both very learned 
 persons). The Bishop of Galloway officiated with great 
 gravity, after a pious and learned exhortation declaring 
 the weight and dignity of their function, especially now in 
 a time of the poor Church of England's affliction. He 
 magnified the sublimity of the calling, from the object, 
 viz., the salvation of men's souls, and the glory of God ; 
 producing many human instances of the transitoriness and 
 vanity of all other dignities ; that of all the triumphs the 
 Roman conquerors made, none was comparable to that of 
 our Blessed Saviour's, when he led captivity captive, and 
 gave gifts to men, namely, that of the Holy Spirit, by 
 which his faithful and painful ministers triumphed over 
 Satan as oft as they reduced a sinner from the error of 
 his ways. He then proceeded to the ordination. They 
 were presented by the Dean in their surplices before the 
 altar, the Bishop sitting in a chair at one side; and so 
 were made both Deacons and Priests at the same time, in 
 regard to the necessity of the times, there being so few 
 Bishops left in England, and consequently danger of a 
 failure of both functions. Lastly, they proceeded to the 
 Communion. This was all performed in Sir Richard 
 Browne's chapel, at Paris. 
 
 13th. I sate to the famous sculptor, Nanteuil, who was 
 afterwards made a knight by the French King for his art. 
 He engraved my picture in copper. At a future time, 
 he presented me with my own picture,* done all with his 
 pen ; an extraordinary curiosity. 
 
 21st. I went to see the Samaritan, or Pump, at the end 
 of the Pont Neuf, which, though to appearance promising 
 
 * Also those of his Lady and Sir R. Browne, most beautifully executed, 
 which are at Wotton.
 
 1650.] JOHN EVELYN. 059 
 
 no great matter, is, besides the machine, furnished with 
 innumerable rarities both of art and nature; especially 
 the costly grotto, where are the fairest corals, growing out 
 of the very rock, that I have seen ; also great pieces of 
 crystals, amethysts, gold in the mine, and other metals 
 and marcasites, with two great conchas, which the owner 
 told us cost him 200 crowns at Amsterdam. He showed us 
 many landscapes and prospects, very rarely painted in 
 miniature, some with the pen and crayon ; divers anti- 
 quities and relievos of Rome ; above all, that of the inside 
 of the Amphitheatre of Titus, incomparably drawn by 
 Monsieur St. Clere * himself; two boys and three skele- 
 tons, moulded by Fiamingo ; a book of statues, with the 
 pen made for Henry IV., rarely executed, and by which 
 one may discover many errors in the taille-douce of Perrier, 
 who has added divers conceits of his own that are not in 
 the originals. He has likewise an infinite collection of 
 taille-douces, richly bound in morocco. 
 
 He led us into a stately chamber furnished to have 
 entertained a prince, with pictures of the greatest masters, 
 especially a Venus of Perino del Vaga ; the Putti carved 
 in the chimney-piece by the Fleming; the vases of por- 
 celain, and many designed by Raphael ; some paintings of 
 Poussin, and Fioravanti ; antiques in brass ; the looking- 
 glass and stands rarely carved. In a word, all was great,, 
 choice and magnificent, and not to be passed by as I had 
 often done, without the least suspicion that there were 
 such rare things to be seen in that place. At a future 
 visit, he showed a new grotto and a bathing place, hewn 
 through the battlements of the arches of Pont Neuf, into 
 a wide vault at the intercolumniation, so that the coaches 
 and horses thundered over our heads. 
 
 27th. I made my will, and, taking leave of my wife and 
 other friends, took horse for England, paying the messager 
 eight pistoles for me and my servant to Calais, setting out: 
 with seventeen in company well-armed, some Portuguese, 
 Swiss, and French, whereof six were captains and officers. 
 We came the first night to Beaumont ; next day, to Beau- 
 vais, and lay at Pois, and the next, without dining, reached 
 Abbeville ; next, dined at Montreuil, and proceeding met 
 
 This was the name of the owner.
 
 260 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 a company on foot (being now within the inroads of the 
 parties which dangerously infest this day's journey from 
 St. Omers and the frontiers) which we drew very near 
 to, ready and resolute to charge through, and accordingly 
 were ordered and led by a captain of our train ; but, as 
 we were on the speed, they called out, and proved to be 
 Scotchmen, newly raised and landed, and few among them 
 armed. This night, we were well treated at Boulogne. 
 The next day, we marched in good order, the passage 
 being now exceeding dangerous, and got to Calais, by a 
 little after two. The sun so scorched my face, that it 
 made the skin peel off. 
 
 I dined with Mr. Booth, his Majesty's agent; and, about 
 three in the afternoon, embarked in the packet-boat ; 
 hearing there was a pirate then also setting sail, we had 
 security from molestation, and so with a fair S. W. wind 
 in seven hours we landed at Dover. The busy watchman 
 would have us to the Mayor to be searched, but the gen- 
 tleman being in bed, we were dismissed. 
 
 Next day, being Sunday, they would not permit us to 
 ride post, so that afternoon our trunks were visited. 
 
 The next morning by four, we set out for Canterbury, 
 where I met with my Lady Catherine Scott, whom that 
 very day twelve months before I met at sea going for 
 France ; she had been visiting Sir Thomas Peyton, not far 
 off, and would needs carry me in her coach to Gravesend. 
 We dined at Sittingbourne, came late to Gravesend, and 
 so to Deptford, taking leave of my lady about four the 
 next morning. 
 
 5th July. I supped in the city with my Lady Cathe- 
 rine Scott, at one Mr. Dubois', where was a gentlewoman 
 called Everard, who was a very great chymist. 
 
 Sunday 7th. In the afternoon, having a mind to see 
 what was doing among the Rebels, then in full possession 
 at Whitehall, I went thither and found one at exercise in 
 the chapel, after their way ; thence, to St. James's, where 
 another was preaching in the court abroad. 
 
 17th. I went to London to obtain a pass,* intending 
 but a short stay in England. 
 
 * As follows : " These are to will and require you to permit and suffer the 
 bearer thereof, John Evelyn, Esq., to transport himself, two servants, and 
 other necessaries, unto any port of France, without any your lets or moles-
 
 1G50.] JOHN EVELYN. 61 
 
 25th. I went by Epsom to Wotton, saluting Sir Ro- 
 bert Cook and my sister Glanville ; the country was now 
 much molested by soldiers, who took away gentlemen's 
 horses for the service of the State, as then called. 
 
 4th August. I heard a sermon at the Rolls ; and, in 
 the afternoon, wandered to divers churches, the pulpits full 
 of novices and novelties. 
 
 6th. To Mr. Walker's, a good painter, who showed me 
 an excellent copy of Titian. 
 
 12th. Set out for Paris, taking post at Gravesend, and 
 so that night to Canterbury, where being surprised by the 
 soldiers, and having only an antiquated pass, with some 
 fortunate dexterity I got clear of them, though not with- 
 out extraordinary hazard, having before counterfeited one 
 with success, it being so difficult to procure one of the 
 Rebels without entering into oaths, which I never would 
 do. At Dover, money to the searchers and officers was as 
 authentic as the hand and seal of Bradshawe, himself, where 
 I had not so much as my trunk opened. 
 
 13th. At six in the evening, set sail for Calais; the 
 wind not favourable, I was very sea-sick, coming to an 
 anchor about one o'clock ; about five in the morning, we 
 had a long boat to carry us to land, though at a good dis- 
 tance ; this we willingly entered, because two vessels were 
 chasing us ; but, being now almost at the harbour's mouth, 
 through inadvertency there brake in upon us two such 
 heavy seas, as had almost sunk the boat, I being near the 
 middle up in water. Our steersman, it seems, apprehen- 
 sive of the danger, was preparing to leap into the sea and 
 trust to swimming, but seeing the vessel emerge, he put 
 her into the pier, and so, God be thanked ! we got to 
 Calais, though wet. 
 
 tations, of which you are not to fail, and for which this shall be your sufficient 
 warrant. Given at the Council of State at Whitehall this 25th of June, 1650. 
 " Signed in the Name and by Order of the Council of State, 
 appointed by authority of Parliament, 
 
 " Jo. BRADSHAWE, President 
 
 ' " To all Customers, Comptrollers, and Searchers, and 
 
 all other officers of the Ports, or Customs." 
 
 Subjoined to the signature, Evelyn has added in his own writing, " The 
 hand of that villain who sentenced our Charles I. of B[lessed] M[emory]." 
 Endorsed by Evelyn, " The Pass from the Council of State, 1 650."
 
 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 Here I waited for company, the passage towards Paris 
 being still infested with volunteers from the Spanish fron- 
 tiers. 
 
 16th. The Regiment of Picardy, consisting of about 
 1400 horse and foot (amongst them was a captain whom I 
 knew), being come to town, I took horses for myself and 
 servant, and marched under their protection to Boulogne. 
 It was a miserable spectacle to see how these tattered sol- 
 diers pillaged the poor people of their sheep, poultry, corn, 
 cattle, and whatever came in their way ; but they had such 
 ill pay, that they were ready themselves to starve. 
 
 As we passed St. Denis, the people were in uproar, the 
 guards doubled, and everybody running with their move- 
 ables to Paris, on an alarm that the enemy was within 
 five leagues of them ; so miserably exposed was even this 
 part of France at this time. 
 
 The 30th, I got to Paris, after an absence of two months 
 only. 
 
 1st September. My Lady Herbert invited me to dinner; 
 Paris, and indeed all France, being full of loyal fugitives. 
 
 Came Mr. Waller to see me, about a child of his which 
 the Popish midwife had baptized. 
 
 October 15th. Sir Thomas Osborne (afterwards Lord 
 Treasurer) and Lord Stanhope shot for a wager of five 
 louis, to be spent on a treat ; they shot so exact, that it was 
 a drawn match. 
 
 November 1st. Took leave of my Lord Stanhope, going 
 on his journey towards Italy ; also visited my Lord Hatton, 
 Comptroller of his Majesty's Household, the Countess of 
 Morton, Governess to the Lady Henrietta, and Mrs. Gard- 
 ner, one of the Queen's Maids of Honour. 
 
 6th. Sir Thomas Osborne supping with us, his groom 
 was set upon in the street before our house, and received 
 two wounds, but gave the assassin nine, who was carried 
 off" to the Charite Hospital. Sir Thomas went for England 
 on the 8th, and carried divers letters for me to my 
 friends. 
 
 16th. I went to Monsieur Visse's, the French King's 
 Secretary, to a concert of French music and voices, con- 
 sisting of twenty -four, two theorbos, and but one bass viol, 
 being a rehearsal of what was to be sung at Tespers at 
 St. Cecilia's, on her feast, she being patroness of Musicians.
 
 1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 263 
 
 News arrived of the death of the Princess of Orange of 
 the small pox. 
 
 14th December. I went to visit Mr. RatclifFe, in whose 
 lodging was an impostor that had like to have imposed 
 upon us a pretended secret of multiplying gold ; it is cer- 
 tain he had lived some time in Paris in extraordinary 
 splendour, but I found him to be an egregious cheat. 
 
 22nd. Came the learned Dr. Boet to visit me. 
 
 31st. I gave God thanks for his mercy and protection 
 the past year, and made up my accounts, which came this 
 year to 7,015 livres, near 600 sterling. 
 
 1650-1. 1st January. I wrote to my brother at Wotton, 
 about his garden and fountains. After evening prayer, 
 Mr. Wainsford called on me : he had long been Consul at 
 Aleppo, and told me many strange things of those coun- 
 tries, the Arabs especially. 
 
 27th. Ihadletters of the death of Mrs. Newton, my grand- 
 mother-in-law ; she had a most tender care of me during 
 my childhood, and was a woman of extraordinary charity 
 and piety. 
 
 29th. Dr. Duncan preached on 8 Matt. v. 34, showing 
 the mischief of covetousness. My Lord Marquis of Or- 
 mond and Inchiquin, come newly out of Ireland, were this 
 day at chapel. 
 
 9th February. Cardinal Mazarine was proscribed by 
 Arret du Parlement, and great commotions began in Paris. 
 
 23rd. I went to see the Bonnes Hommes, a convent 
 that has a fair cloister painted with the lives of Hermits ; 
 a glorious altar now erecting in the chapel; the garden 
 on the rock with divers descents, with a fine vineyard and 
 a delicate prospect toward the city. 
 
 24th. I went to see a dromedary, a very monstrous 
 beast, much like the camel, but larger. There was also 
 dancing on the rope ; but, above all, surprising to those 
 who were ignorant of the address, was the water-spouter,* 
 who, drinking only fountain-water, rendered out of his 
 mouth in several glasses all sorts of wine and sweet waters. 
 For a piece of money, he discovered the secret to me. I 
 "waited on Friar Nicholas at the convent at Chaillot, who, 
 being an excellent chymist, showed me his laboratory, and 
 
 *^Floriand Marchand. He afterwards exhibited himself in England. Pre- 
 fixed to an Account of his exploits, is a woodcut of him.
 
 DIARY OP [PARIS, 
 
 rare collection of spagyrical remedies. He was both phy- 
 sician and apothecary of the convent, and, instead of the 
 names of his drugs, he painted his boxes and pots with 
 the figure of the drug, or simple, contained in them. He 
 showed me as a rarity some $ of antimony:* he had 
 cured Monsieur Senatan of a desperate sickness, for which 
 there was building a monumental altar that was to cost 
 1500. 
 
 llth March. I went to the Chatelet, or prison, where 
 a malefactor was to have the question, or torture, given to 
 him, he refusing to confess the robbery with which he 
 was charged, which was thus : they first bound his wrist 
 with a strong rope, or small cable, and one end of it to an 
 iron ring made fast to the wall, about four feet from the 
 floor, and then his feet with another cable, fastened about 
 five feet farther than his utmost length to another ring on 
 the floor of the room. Thus suspended, and yet lying but 
 aslant, they slid a horse of wood under the rope which 
 bound his feet which so exceedingly stiffened it, as severed 
 the fellow's joints in miserable sort, drawing him out at 
 length in an extraordinary manner, he having only a pair 
 of linen drawers on his naked body. Then, they questioned 
 him of a robbery (the Lieutenant being present, and a 
 clerk that wrote), which not confessing, they put a higher 
 horse under the rope, to increase the torture and exten- 
 sion. In this agony, confessing nothing, the executioner 
 with a horn (just such as they drench horses with) stuck 
 the end of it into his mouth, and poured the quantity of 
 two buckets of water down his throat and over him, which 
 so prodigiously swelled him, as would have pitied and 
 affrighted any one to see it ; for all this, he denied all that 
 was charged to him. They then let him down, and carried 
 him before a warm fire to bring him to himself, being now 
 to all appearance dead with pain. What became of him, I 
 know not ; but the gentleman whom he robbed constantly 
 averred him to be the man, and the fellow's suspicious 
 pale looks, before he knew he should be racked, betrayed 
 some guilt ; the Lieutenant was also of that opinion, and 
 told us at first sight (for he was a lean, dry, black young 
 man) he would conquer the torture ; and so it seems they 
 
 * Qu. Some preparation of if, since perfected by Dr. James, whose jiamo 
 it now bears.
 
 1G5L] JOHN EVELYN. 265 
 
 could not hang him, but did use in such cases, where the 
 evidence is very presumptive, to send them to the galleys, 
 which is as bad as death. 
 
 There was another malefactor to succeed, but the spec- 
 tacle was so uncomfortable, that I was not able to stay the 
 sight of another. It represented yet to me, the intolerable 
 sufferings which our Blessed Saviour must needs undergo 
 when his body was hanging with all its weight upon the 
 nails on the cross. 
 
 20th. I went this night with my wife to a ball at the 
 Marquis de Crevecoeur's, where were divers Princes, Dukes, 
 and great persons; but what appeared to me very mean 
 was, that it began with a puppet-play. 
 
 6th May. I attended the Ambassador to a masque at 
 Court, where the French King in person danced five 
 entries : but being engaged in discourse and better enter- 
 tained with one of the Queen-Regent's Secretaries, I soon 
 left the entertainment. 
 
 llth. To the Palace Cardinal, where the Master of the 
 Ceremonies placed me to see the royal masque, or opera. 
 The first scene represented a chariot of singers composed 
 of the rarest voices that could be procured, representing 
 Cornaro * and Temperance ; this was overthrown by 
 Bacchus and his Revellers ; the rest consisted of several 
 entries and pageants of excess, by all the Elements. A 
 masque representing fire was admirable ; then came a 
 Venus out of the clouds. The conclusion was a heaven, 
 whither all ascended. But the glory of the masque was 
 the great persons performing in it, the French King, his 
 brother the Duke of Anjou, with all the Grandees of the 
 Court, the King performing to the admiration of all. The 
 music was twenty-nine violins, vested a V antique, but the 
 habits of the masquers were stupendously rich and glorious. 
 
 23rd. I went to take leave of the Ambassadors for 
 Spain, which were my Lord Treasurer Cottington and Sir 
 Edward Hyde ; and, as I returned, I visited Mr. Morine'sf 
 garden, and his other rarities, especially corals, minerals, 
 stones, and natural curiosities; crabs of the Red Sea, the body 
 no bigger than a small bird's egg, but flatter, and the two 
 
 * The famous Venetian writer on Temperance, 
 f See page 65.
 
 66 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 legs, or claws, a foot in length. He had abundance of 
 shells, at least 1000 sorts, which furnished a cabinet of 
 great price; and had a very curious collection of scara- 
 bees, and insects, of which he was compiling a natural 
 history. He had also the pictures of his choice flowers 
 and plants in miniature. He told me there were 10,000 
 sorts of tulips only. He had taille-douces out of number ; 
 the head of the Rhinoceros bird, which was very extrava- 
 gant, and one butterfly resembling a perfect bird. 
 
 25th. I went to visit Mr. Thomas White, a learned 
 priest and famous philosopher, author of the book " De 
 Mundo," with whose worthy brother I was well acquainted 
 at Rome. I was showed a cabinet of Maroquin, or Turkey 
 leather, so curiously inlaid with other leather, and gilding, 
 that the workman demanded for it 800 livres. 
 
 The Dean (of Peterborough) preached on the feast of 
 Pentecost, perstringing those of Geneva for their irre- 
 verence of the Blessed Virgin. 
 
 4th June. Trinity- Sunday, I was absent from church in 
 the afternoon on a charitable affair for the Abbess of Bou- 
 charvant, who but for me had been abused by that chymist, 
 Du Menie.* Returning, I stept into the Grand Jesuits, 
 who had this high day exposed their Cibarium, made all of 
 solid gold and imagery, a piece of infinite cost. Dr. Croy- 
 don, coming out of Italy and from Padua, came to see me, 
 on his return to England. 
 
 5th. I accompanied my Lord Strafford, and some other 
 noble persons, to hear Madame Lavaran sing, which she 
 did both in French and Italian excellently well, but her 
 voice was not strong. 
 
 7th. Corpus Christi Day, there was a grand procession, 
 all the streets tapestried, several altars erected there, full 
 of images, and other rich furniture, especially that before 
 the Court, of a rare design and architecture. There were 
 abundance of excellent pictures and great vases of silver. 
 
 13th. I went to see the collection of one Monsieur 
 Poignant, which for variety of agates, crystals, onyxes, 
 porcelain, medals, statues, relievos, paintings, taille-douces, 
 and antiquities, might compare with the Italian virtuosos. 
 
 * Q,u. The person mentioned in page 263, as pretending to have found out 
 the art of multiplying gold ?
 
 1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 057 
 
 21st. I became acquainted with Sieur William Curtius, 
 a very learned and judicious person of the Palatinate. 
 He had been scholar to Alstedius, the Encyclopedist, was 
 well advanced in years, and now Resident for his Majesty 
 at Frankfort. 
 
 2nd July. Came to see me the Earl of Strafford, Lord 
 Ossory and his Brother, Sir John Southcott, Sir Edward 
 Stawell, two of my Lord Spencer's sons, and Dr. Stewart, 
 Dean of St. Paul's, a learned and pious man, where we 
 entertained the time upon several subjects, especially the 
 affairs of England, and the lamentable condition of our 
 Church. The Lord Gerrard also called to see my collection 
 of sieges and battles. 
 
 21st. An extraordinary fast was celebrated in our 
 Chapel, Dr. Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's, preaching. 
 
 2nd August. I went with my wife to Conflans, where 
 were abundance of ladies and others bathing in the river ; 
 the ladies had their tents spread on the water for privacy. 
 
 29th. "Was kept as a solemn fast for the calamities of 
 our poor Church, now trampled on by the rebels. Mr. 
 Waller, being at St. Germains, desired me to send him a 
 coach from Paris, to bring my wife's god-daughter to Paris, 
 to be buried by the Common Prayer. 
 
 6th September. I went with my wife to St. Germains, 
 to condole with Mr. Waller's loss. I carried with me and 
 treated at dinner that excellent and pious person the Dean 
 of St. Paul's, Dr. Stewart, and Sir Lewis Dives (half- 
 brother to the Earl of Bristol), who entertained us with 
 his wonderful escape out of prison in Whitehall, the very 
 evening before he was to have been put to death, leaping 
 down out of a jakes two stories high into the Thames at 
 high water, in the coldest of winter, and at night ; so as by 
 swimming he got to a boat that attended for him, though 
 he was guarded by six musketeers. After this, he went 
 about in women's habit, and then in a small-coal-man's, 
 travelling 200 miles on foot, embarked for Scotland with 
 some men he had raised, who coming on shore were all 
 surprised and imprisoned on the Marquis of Montrose's 
 score ; he not knowing anything of their barbarous murder 
 of that hero. This he told us was his fifth escape, and 
 none less miraculous ; with this note, that the charging 
 through 1000 men armed, or whatever danger could befall
 
 DIARY OF [PARIS 
 
 a man, he believed could not more confound and distract 
 a man's thoughts than the execution of a premeditated 
 escape, the passions of hope and fear being so strong. 
 This knight was indeed a valiant gentleman; but not a 
 little given to romance, when he spake of himself. I 
 returned to Paris, the same evening. 
 
 7th. I went to visit Mr. Hobbes, the famous philosopher 
 of Malmesbury, with whom I had long acquaintance. 
 From his window, we saw the whole equipage and glorious 
 cavalcade of the young French Monarch, Louis XIV., 
 passing to Parliament, when first he took the kingly govern- 
 ment on him, now being in his 14th year, out of his 
 minority and the Queen Regent's pupillage. First, came 
 the captain of the King's Aids, at the head of 50 richly 
 liveried; next, the Queen-Mother's light Horse, 100, 
 the lieutenant being all over covered with embroidery and 
 ribbons, having before him four trumpets habited in black 
 velvet, full of lace, and casques of the same. Then, the 
 King's Light Horse, 200, richly habited, with four trumpets 
 in blue velvet embroidered with gold, before whom rid the 
 Count d'Olonne coronet [cornet], whose belt was set with 
 pearl. Next went the grand PreVot's company on foot, 
 with the Pre'vot on horseback; after them, the Swiss in 
 black velvet toques, led by two gallant cavaliers habited in 
 scarlet-coloured satin, after their country fashion, which is 
 very fantastic ; he had in his cap a pennach of heron, with 
 a band of diamonds, and about him twelve little Swiss 
 boys, with halberds. Then, came the Aide des Ceremonies ; 
 next, the grandees of court, governors of places, and 
 lieutenants-general of provinces, magnificently habited and 
 mounted, among whom I must not forget the Chevalier 
 Paul, famous for many sea-fights and signal exploits there, 
 because it is said he had never been an Academist, and 
 yet governed a very unruly horse, and besides his rich 
 suit, his Malta Cross was esteemed at 10,000 crowns. 
 These were headed by two trumpets, and the whole troop, 
 covered with gold, jewels, and rich caparisons, were fol- 
 lowed by six trumpets in blue velvet also, preceding as 
 many heralds in blue velvet semee with fleurs-de-lis, 
 caduces in their hands, and velvet caps on their heads ; 
 behind them, came one of the masters of the ceremonies; 
 then, divers marshals and many of the nobility, exceeding
 
 1C5L] JOHN EVELYN. 269 
 
 splendid ; behind them Count d'Harcourt, grand Ecuyer, 
 alone, carrying the King's sword in a scarf, which he held 
 up in a blue sheath studded with fleurs-de-lis ; his horse 
 had for reins two scarfs of black taffata. 
 
 Then, came abundance of footmen and pages of the 
 King, new-liveried with white and red feathers ; next, the 
 garde du corps and other officers ; and, lastly, appeared the 
 King himself on an Isabella barb, on which a housing 
 semee with crosses of the Order of the Holy Ghost, and 
 fleurs-de-lis ; the King himself, like a young Apollo, was 
 in a suit so covered with rich embroidery, that one could 
 perceive nothing of the stuff under it ; he went almost 
 the whole way with his hat in hand, saluting the ladies 
 and acclamators, who had filled the windows with their 
 beauty, and the air with Vive le Roi. He seemed a prince 
 of a grave yet sweet countenance. After the King, followed 
 divers great persons of the Court, exceeding splendid, also 
 his esquires ; masters of horse, on foot ; then, the company 
 of Exempts des Gardes, and six guards of Scotch. Betwixt 
 their files, were divers princes of the blood, dukes, and 
 lords ; after all these, the Queen's guard of Swiss, pages, 
 and footmen ; then, the Queen-Mother herself, in a rich 
 coach, with Monsieur the King's brother, the Duke of 
 Orleans, and some other lords and ladies of honour. 
 About the coach, marched her Exempts des Gardes ; then, 
 the company of the King's Gens d'armes, well mounted, 
 150, with four trumpets, and as many of the Queen's; 
 lastly, an innumerable company of coaches full of ladies 
 and gallants. In this equipage, passed the monarch to the 
 Parliament, henceforth exercising his kingly government. 
 
 15th. I accompanied Sir Richard Browne, my father- 
 in-law, to the French Court, when he had a favourable 
 audience of the French King and the Queen, his mother, 
 congratulating the one on his coming to the exercise of 
 his royal charge, and the other's prudent and happy admi- 
 nistration during her late regency, desiring both to 
 preserve the same amity for his master, our King, as they 
 had hitherto done, which they both promised, with many 
 civil expressions and words of course upon such occasions. 
 We were accompanied both going and returning by the 
 Inttoductor of Ambassadors and Aid of Ceremonies. I 
 also saw the audience of Morosini, the Ambassador of
 
 270 DIARY OF [PARIS, 
 
 Venice, and divers other Ministers of State from German 
 Princes, Savoy, &c. Afterwards, I took a walk in the 
 King's gardens, where I observed that the mall goes the 
 whole square thereof next the wall, and bends with an 
 angle so made as to glance the wall ; the angle is of stone. 
 There is a basin at the end of the garden fed by a noble 
 fountain and high jetto. There were in it two or three 
 boats, in which the King now and then rows about. In 
 another part is a complete fort, made with bastions, graft, 
 half-moons, ravelins, and furnished with great guns cast 
 on purpose to instruct the King in fortification. 
 
 22nd. Arrived the news of the fatal battle at Worcester, 
 which exceedingly mortified our expectations. 
 
 28th. I was showed a collection of books and prints, 
 made for the Duke of York. 
 
 1st October. The Dean of Peterborough [Dr. Cosin] 
 preached on Job xiii., verse 15, encouraging our trust in 
 God on all events and extremities, and for establishing 
 and comforting some ladies of great quality, who were 
 then to be discharged from our Queen-Mother's service, 
 unless they would go over to the Romish Mass. 
 
 The Dean, dining this day at our house, told me the 
 occasion of publishing those Offices, which among the 
 Puritans were wont to be called Cosin's cozening Devo- 
 tions,* by way of derision. At the first coming of the 
 Queen into England, she and her French ladies were often 
 upbraiding our religion, that had neither appointed nor 
 set forth any hours of prayer, or breviaries, by which ladies 
 and courtiers, who have much spare time, might edify and 
 be in devotion, as they had. Our Protestant ladies, 
 scandalized it seems at this, moved the matter to the 
 King, whereupon his Majesty presently called Bishop 
 White to him, and asked his thoughts of it, and whether 
 there might not be found some forms of prayer proper on 
 such occasions, collected out of some already approved 
 forms, that so the court-ladies and others (who spend 
 
 * So called by Mr. Prynne, in his brief survey of this book. The Dean was 
 sequestered from all his preferments by the Parliament, and went abroad to 
 Paris, 1 643. He kept up the service of the Church of England in Sir Richard 
 Browne's chapel there, see pp. 258, 266. On the Restoration, he was made 
 Bishop of Durham, to which see, as well as to Peter-House, at Cambridge, of 
 which he had been Master, he was a most munificent benefactor. He died 
 in 1671. See Biog. Brit., the new edition by Dr. Kippis.
 
 1651.] JOHN EVELYN. 271 
 
 much time in trifling) might at least appear as devout, and 
 be so too, as the new-come-over French ladies, who took 
 occasion to reproach our want of zeal and religion. On 
 which, the Bishop told his Majesty that it might be done 
 easily, and was very necessary ; whereupon, the King com- 
 manded him to employ some person of the clergy to 
 compile such a Work, and presently the Bishop naming 
 Dr. Cosin, the King enjoined him to charge the Doctor in 
 his name to set about it immediately. This the Dean 
 told me he did, arid three months after, bringing the book 
 to the King, he commanded the Bishop of London to read 
 it over, and make his report ; this was so well liked, that 
 (contrary to former custom of doing it by a chaplain) he 
 would needs give it an imprimatur under his own hand. 
 Upon this, there were at first only 200 copies printed ; nor, 
 said he, was there anything in the whole book of my own 
 composure, nor did I set any name as author to it, but 
 those necessary prefaces, &c. out of the Fathers, touching 
 the times and seasons of prayer, all the rest being entirely 
 translated and collected out of an Office, published by 
 authority of Queen Elizabeth, anno 1560, and our own 
 Liturgy. This I rather mention to justify that industrious 
 and Pious Dean, who had exceedingly suffered by it, as if 
 he had done it of his own head to introduce Popery, from 
 which no man was more averse, and one who in this time 
 of temptation and apostacy held and confirmed many to 
 our Church.* 
 
 29th. Came news and letters to the Queen and Sir 
 Richard Browne (who was the first that had intelligence 
 of it) of his Majesty's miraculous escape after the fight 
 at Worcester ; which exceedingly rejoiced us. 
 
 7th November. I visited Sir Kenelm Digby, with whom 
 I had much discourse of chemical matters. I showed him 
 a particular way of extracting oil of sulphur, and he gave 
 me a certain powder with which he affirmed that he had 
 fixed (mercury) before the late King. He advised me 
 to try and digest a little better, and gave me a water 
 
 * The Clergy who attended the English Court in France at this time, and 
 are mentioned to have officiated in Sir Richard Browne's Chapel were : The 
 Bishop of Galloway ; Dr. George Morley, afterwards Bishop of Winchester ; 
 Dr.- Cosin, Dean of Peterborough, afterwards Bishop of Durham ; Dr. 
 Stewart, Dean of St. Paul's ; Dr. Earle ; Dr. Clare ; Dr. Wolley, no great 
 preacher ; Mr. Crowder ; Dr. Lloyd ; Mr. Hamilton ; Dr. Duncan.
 
 DIARY OF [PAUIS, 
 
 which he said was only rain-water of the autumnal equinox, 
 exceedingly rectified, very volatile ; it had a taste of a 
 strong vitriolic, and smelt like aqua-fortis. He intended 
 it for a dissolvent of calx of gold ; but the truth is, Sir 
 Kenelm was an errant mountebank. Came news of the 
 gallant Earl of Derby's execution by the rebels. 
 
 14th. Dr. Clare preached on Genesis xxviii. verses 20, 21, 
 2, upon Jacob's vow, which he appositely applied, it 
 being the first Sunday his Majesty came to chapel after 
 his escape. I went, in the afternoon, to visit the Earl of 
 Norwich ; he lay at the Lord of Aubigny's. 
 
 16th. Visited Dean Stewart, who had been sick about 
 two days ; when going up to his lodging I found him 
 dead; which affected me much, as besides his particular 
 affection and love to me, he was of incomparable parts and 
 great learning, of exemplary life, and a very great loss to 
 the whole church. He was buried the next day with all 
 our church's ceremonies, many noble persons accompany- 
 ing the corpse. 
 
 17th. I went to congratulate the marriage of Mrs. 
 Gardner, maid of honour, lately married to that odd 
 person, Sir Henry Wood : but riches do many things. 
 
 To see Monsieur Febur's course of chymistry, where I 
 found Sir Kenelm Digby, and divers curious persons of 
 learning and quality. It was his first opening the course 
 and preliminaries, in order to operations. 
 
 1st December. I now resolved to return into England. 
 
 3rd. Sir Lewis Dives dined with us, who relating some 
 of his adventures, showed me divers pieces of broad gold, 
 which, being in his pocket in a fight, preserved his life by 
 receiving a musket-bullet on them, which deadened its 
 violence, so that it went no further; but made such a 
 stroke on the gold as fixed the impressions upon one 
 another, battering and bending several of them ; the bullet 
 itself was flatted, and retained on it the colour of the gold. 
 He assured us that of a hundred of them, which it seems 
 he then had in his pocket, not one escaped without some 
 blemish. He affirmed that his being protected by a Nea- 
 politan Prince, who connived at his bringing some horses 
 into France, contrary to the order of the Viceroy, by 
 assistance of some banditti, was the occasion of a difference 
 between those great men, and consequently of the late
 
 1G52.] JOPIN EVELYN. 073 
 
 civil war in that kingdom, the Viceroy having killed the 
 Prince standing on his defence at his own castle. He told 
 me that the second time of the Scots coming into England, 
 the King was six times their number, and might easily 
 have beaten them ; but was betrayed, as were all other 
 his designs and counsels, by some, even of his bed-chamber, 
 meaning M. Hamilton, who copied Montrosfi's letters 
 from time to time when his Majesty was asleep. 
 
 llth. Came to visit me, Mr. Obadiah Walker, of Uni- 
 versity College, with his two pupils, the sons of my worthy 
 friend, Henry Hyldiard, Esq.,* whom I had recommended 
 to his care. 
 
 21st. Came to visit my wife, Mrs. Lane, the lady who 
 conveyed the King to the sea-side at his escape from 
 "Worcester. Mr. John Cosin, son to the Dean, debauched 
 by the priests, wrote a letter to me to mediate for him, 
 with his father. I prepared for my last journey, being 
 now resolved to leave France altogether. 
 
 25th. The King and Duke received the Sacrament first 
 by themselves, the Lords Byron and Wilmot holding the 
 long towel all along the altar. 
 
 26th. Came news of the death of that rebel, Ireton. 
 31st. Preached Dr. Wolley, after which was celebrated 
 the Holy Communion, which I received also, preparative 
 of my journey, being now resolved to leave France 
 altogether, and to return God Almighty thanks for His 
 gracious protection of me this past year. 
 
 1651-2. 2nd January. News of my sister Glanville's 
 death in childbed, which exceedingly affected me. 
 
 I went to one Mark Antonio, an incomparable artist in 
 enamelling. He wrought by the lamp figures in boss, of a 
 large size, even to the life, so that nothing could be better 
 moulded. He told us stories of a Genoese jeweller, who 
 had the great arcanum, and had made projection before 
 him several times. He met him at Cyprus travelling into 
 Egypt ; in his return from whence, he died at sea, and the 
 secret with him, that else he had promised to have left it 
 to him ; that all his effects were seized on, and dissipated 
 by the Greeks in the vessel, to an immense value. He 
 also affirmed, that being in a goldsmith's shop at Amster- 
 dam, a person of very low stature came in, and desired 
 
 * Of East Horsley, in Surrey. 
 VOL. I. T
 
 74; DIARY OF [CALAIS, 
 
 the goldsmith to melt him a pound of lead ; which done, 
 he unscrewed the pommel of his sword, and, taking out of 
 a little box a small quantity of powder, casting it into the 
 crucible, poured an ingot out, which, when cold, he took 
 up, saying, " Sir, you will be paid for your lead in the 
 crucible," and so went out immediately. When he was 
 gone, the goldsmith found four ounces of good gold in it, 
 but could never set eye again on the little man, though he 
 sought all the city for him. Antonio asserted this with 
 great obtestation ; nor know I what to think of it, there 
 are so many impostors and people who love to tell strange 
 stories, as this artist did, who had been a great rover, and 
 spoke ten different languages. 
 
 13th. I took leave of Mr. Waller who, having been 
 proscribed by the rebels, had obtained of them permission 
 to return, was going to England. 
 
 29th. Abundance of my French and English friends 
 and some Germans, came to take leave of me, and I set 
 out in a coach for Calais, in an exceeding hard frost which 
 had continued some time. We got that night to Beau- 
 mont ; 30th, to Beauvais ; 31st, we found the ways very 
 deep with snow, and it was exceeding cold ; dined at Pois ; 
 lay at Pernee, a miserable cottage of miserable people in a 
 wood, wholly unfurnished, but in a little time we had 
 sorry beds and some provision, which they told me they 
 hid in the wood for fear of the frontier enemy, the garri- 
 sons near them continually plundering what they had. 
 They were often infested with wolves. I cannot remember 
 that I ever saw more miserable creatures. 
 
 1st February. I dined at Abbeville; 2nd, dined at 
 Montreuil, lay at Boulogne ; 3rd, came to Calais, by eleven 
 in the morning; I thought to have embarked in the 
 evening, but, for fear of pirates plying near the coast, I 
 durst not trust our small vessel, and stayed till Monday 
 following, when two or three lusty vessels were to depart. 
 
 I brought with me from Paris Mr. Christopher Wase, 
 sometime before made to resign his fellowship in King's 
 College, Cambridge, because he would not take the Cove- 
 nant. He had been a soldier in Flanders, and came 
 miserable to Paris. From his excellent learning, and 
 some relation he had to Sir R. Browne, I bore his charges 
 into England, and clad and provided for him, till he
 
 1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 275 
 
 should find some better condition ; and he was worthy of 
 it.* There came with us also Captain Griffith, Mr. Tyrell, 
 brother to Sir Timothy Tyrell, of Shotover (near Oxford). 
 
 At Calais, I dined with my Lord Wentworth, and met 
 with Mr. Heath, Sir Richard Lloyd, Captain Paine, and 
 divers of our banished friends, of whom understanding 
 that the Count de la Strade, Governor of Dunkirk, was in 
 the town, who had bought my wife's picture, taken 1 by 
 pirates at sea the year before (my wife having sent it for 
 me in England,) as my Lord of Norwich had informed 
 me at Paris, I made my address to him, who frankly told 
 me that he had such a picture in his own bed-chamber 
 amongst other ladies, and how he came by it; seeming 
 well pleased that it was his fortune to preserve it for me, 
 and he generously promised to send it to any friend I had 
 at Dover ; I mentioned a French merchant there, and so 
 took my leave.f 
 
 6th. I embarked early in the packet-boat, but put my 
 goods in a stouter vessel. It was calm, so that we got 
 not to Dover till eight at night. I took horse for Canter- 
 bury, and lay at Rochester ; next day, to Gravesend, took 
 a pair of oars, and landed at Saves Court, where I stayed 
 three days to refresh and look after my packet and goods, 
 sent by a stouter vessel. I went to visit my cousin, Richard 
 Fanshawe, and divers other friends. 
 
 6th March. Saw the magnificent funeral of that arch- 
 rebel, Ireton, carried in pomp from Somerset House to 
 Westminster,accompaniedwith divers regiments of soldiers, 
 horse and foot; then, marched the mourners, General 
 Cromwell (his father-in-law), his mock-parliament-men, 
 officers, and forty poor men in gowns, three led horses in 
 housings of black cloth, two led in black velvet, and his 
 charging-horse, all covered over with embroidery and gold, 
 on crimson velvet ; then the guidons, ensigns, four heralds, 
 carrying the arms of the State (as they called it), namely, 
 the red cross and Ireland, with the casque, wreath, sword, 
 spurs, &c. ; next, a chariot canopied of black velvet and 
 six horses, in which was the corpse ; the pall held up by 
 the mourners on foot ; the mace and sword, with other 
 marks of his charge in Ireland (where he died of the 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn did afterwards procure him a situation, 
 j- The picture was afterwards sent accordingly, see p. 277. 
 T 2
 
 07(5 DIARY OF [DEPTFORI*, 
 
 plague), carried before in black scarfs. Thus, in a grave 
 pace, drums covered with cloth, soldiers reversing their 
 arms, they proceeded through the streets in a very solemn 
 manner. This Ireton was a stout rebel, and had been 
 very bloody to the King's party, witness his severity at 
 Colchester, when in cold blood he put to death those 
 gallant gentlemen, Sir Charles Lucas and Sir George 
 Lisle. My cousin, E/. Fanshawe, came to visit me, and 
 inform me of many considerable affairs. Sir Henry Herbert 
 presented me with his brother, mv Lord Cherbury's book, 
 " De Veritate." 
 
 9th. I went to Deptford, where I made preparation for 
 my settlement, no more intending to go out of Englandj 
 but endeavour a settled life, either in this or some other 
 place, there being now so little appearance of any change 
 for the better, all being entirely in the rebels' hands, and 
 this particular habitation and the estate contiguous to it 
 (belonging to my father-in-law, actually in his Majesty's 
 service) very much suffering for want of some friend to 
 rescue it out of the power of the usurpers, so as to preserve 
 our interest, and take some care of my other concerns ; 
 by the advice and endeavour of my friends, I was advised 
 to reside in it, and compound with the soldiers. This I 
 was besides authorised by his Majesty to do, and encou- 
 raged with a promise that what was in lease from the 
 Crown, if ever it pleased God to restore him, he would 
 secure to us in fee-farm. I had also addresses and cyphers, 
 to correspond with his Majesty and Ministers abroad : 
 upon all which inducements, I was persuaded to settle 
 henceforth in England, having now run about the M r orld, 
 most part out of my own country, near ten years. I 
 therefore now likewise meditated sending over for my 
 wife, whom as yet I had left at Paris. 
 
 14th. I went to Lewisham, where I heard an honest 
 sermon on 1 Cor. ii. 5 7, being the first Sunday I had 
 been at church since my return, it being now a rare thing 
 to find a priest of the Church of England in a parish 
 pulpit, most of which were filled with Independents and 
 Fanatics. 
 
 15th. I saw the Diamond and Ruby launched in the 
 Dock at Deptford, carrying forty-eight brass cannon each ; 
 Cromwell and his grandees present, with great acclama- 
 tions.
 
 1C52.] JOHN EVELYN. 077 
 
 18th. That worthy divine, Mr. Owen, of Eltham, a 
 sequestered person, came to visit me. 
 
 19th. Invited by Lady Gerrard, I went to London, where 
 we had a great supper ; all the vessels, which were innu- 
 merable, were of porcelain, she having the most ample and 
 richest collection of that curiosity in England. 
 
 22nd. I went with my brother Evelyn to Wotton, to give 
 him what directions I was able about his garden, which he 
 was now desirous to put into some form ; but for which he 
 was to remove a mountain overgrown with huge trees and 
 thicket, with a moat within ten yards of the house. This 
 my brother immediately attempted, and that without great 
 cost, for more than a hundred yards south, by digging 
 down the mountain, and flinging it into a rapid stream : it 
 not only carried away the sand, &c. but filled up the moat, 
 and levelled that noble area, where now the garden and 
 fountain is.* The first occasion of my brother making 
 this alteration was my building the little retiring place 
 between the great wood eastward next the meadow, where, 
 some time after my father's death, I made a triangular 
 pond, or little stew, with an artificial rock, after my coming 
 out of Flanders. 
 
 29th. I heard that excellent prelate, the Primate of Ire- 
 land (Jacobus Usher) preach in Lincoln's Inn, on Heb. iv. 
 16, encouraging of penitent sinners. 
 
 5th April. My brother George brought to Sayes Court 
 Cromwell's Act of Oblivion to all that would submit to the 
 Government. 
 
 13th. News was brought me that Lady Cotton, my bro- 
 ther George's wife, was delivered of a son. 
 
 I was moved by a letter out of France to publish the 
 letter which some time since I sent to Dean Cosin's prose- 
 lyted son ; but I did not conceive it convenient, for fear of 
 displeasing her Majesty, the Queen. 
 
 15th. I wrote to the Dean, touching my buying his 
 library, which was one of the choicest collections of any 
 private person in England. 
 
 The Count de Strade most generously and handsomely 
 sent me the picture of my wife from Dunkirk (see pp. 249, 
 275) in a large tin case, without any charge. It is of 
 
 * The fountain still remains.
 
 78 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Mr. Bourdon, and is that which has the dog in it, and is to 
 the knees, but it has been something spoiled by washing 
 it ignorautly with soap-suds. 
 
 25th. I went to visit Alderman Kendrick, a fanatic Lord 
 Mayor, who had married a relation of ours, where I met 
 with a Captain who had been thirteen times to the East 
 Indies. 
 
 29th. Was that celebrated eclipse of the sun, so much 
 threatened by the astrologers, and which had so exceedingly 
 alarmed the whole nation that hardly any one would work, 
 nor stir out of their houses. So ridiculously were they 
 abused by knavish and ignorant star-gazers ! 
 
 We went this afternoon to see the Queen's house at 
 Greenwich, now given by the rebels to Bulstrode White- 
 lock, one of their unhappy counsellors, and keeper of pre- 
 tended liberties. 
 
 10th May. Passing by Smithfield, I saw a miserable 
 creature burning, who had murdered her husband. I went 
 to see some 'workmanship of that admirable artist, Reeves, 
 famous for perspective, and turning curiosities in ivory. 
 
 29th. I went to give order about a coach to be made 
 against my wife's coming, being my first coach, the pattern 
 whereof I brought out of Paris. 
 
 30th. I went to obtain of my Lord Devonshire that my 
 nephew, George, might be brought up with my young Lord, 
 his son, to whom I was recommending Mr. Wase. I also 
 inspected the manner of camletting silk and grogramsatone 
 Monsieur La Dorees in Moor-fields, and thence to Colonel 
 Morley, one of their Council of State, as then called, wha 
 had been my schoolfellow, to request a pass for my wife's 
 safe landing, and the goods she was to bring with her out 
 of France ; which he courteously granted, and did me 
 many other kindnesses, that was a great matter in those 
 days. 
 
 In the afternoon, at Charlton church, where I heard a 
 Rabinical sermon. Here is a fair monument in black 
 marble of Sir Adam Newton, who built that fair house 
 near it for Prince Henry, and where my noble friend, Sir 
 Henry Newton, succeeded him. 
 
 3rd June. I received a letter from Colonel Morley to the 
 Magistrates and Searchers at Rye, to assist my wife at her 
 landing, and show her all civility.
 
 1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 279 
 
 4th. I set out to meet her now on her journey from 
 Paris, after she had obtained leave to come out of that city, 
 which had now been besieged some time by the Prince of 
 Conde's army in the time of the rebellion, and after she 
 had been now near twelve years from her own country, 
 that is, since five years of age, at which time she went over. 
 I went to Rye to meet her, where was an embargo on 
 occasion of the late conflict with the Holland fleet, the two 
 nations being now in war, and which made sailing very 
 unsafe. 
 
 On Whit Sunday, I went to the church (which is a very 
 fair one), and heard one of the canters, who dismissed the 
 assembly rudely, and without any blessing. Here, I stayed 
 till the 10th with no small impatience, when I walked over 
 to survey the ruins of Winchelsea, that ancient cinq-port, 
 which by the remains and ruins of ancient streets and 
 public structures, discovers it to have been formerly a con- 
 siderable and large city. There are to be seen vast caves 
 and vaults, walls and towers, ruins of monasteries and of a 
 sumptuous church, in which are some handsome monu- 
 ments, especially of the Templars, buried just in the 
 manner of those in the Temple at London. This place 
 being now all in rubbish, and a few despicable hovels and 
 cottages only standing, hath yet a Mayor. The sea, which 
 formerly rendered it a rich and commodious port, has now 
 forsaken it. 
 
 1 1th. About four in the afternoon, being at bowls on the 
 green, we discovered a vessel, which proved to be that in 
 which my wife was, and which got into the harbour about 
 eight that evening, to my no small joy. They had been 
 three days at sea, and escaped the Dutch fleet, through 
 which they passed, taken for fishers, which was great good 
 fortune, there being seventeen bales of furniture and other 
 rich plunder, which I bless God came all safe to land, 
 together with my wife, and my Lady Browne, her mother, 
 who accompanied her. My wife being discomposed by 
 having been so long at sea, we set not forth towards home 
 till the 14th, when hearing the small-pox was very rife in 
 and about London, and Lady Browne having a desire to 
 drink Tunbridge waters, I carried them thither, and stayed 
 in a very sweet place, private and refreshing, and took the 
 waters myself till the 23rd, when I went to prepare for
 
 230 DIARY OF [TCNBRIDGE, 
 
 their reception, leaving them for the present in their little 
 cottage by the Wells. 
 
 The weather being hot, and having sent my man on 
 before, I rode negligently under favour of the shade, till, 
 within three miles of Bromley, at a place called the Pro- 
 cession Oak, two cut-throats started out, and striking with 
 long staves at the horse and taking hold of the reins, threw 
 me down, took my sword, and hauled me into a deep 
 thicket, some quarter of a mile from the highway, where 
 they might securely rob me, as they soon did. What they 
 got of money, was not considerable, but they took two 
 rings, the one an emerald with diamonds, the other an 
 onyx, and a pair of buckles set with rubies and diamonds, 
 which were of value, and after all bound my hands behind 
 me, and my feet, having before pulled off my boots ; they 
 then set me up against an oak, with most bloody threats 
 to cut my throat if I offered to cry out, or make any noise ; 
 for they should be within hearing, I not being the person 
 they looked for. I told them if they had not basely sur- 
 prised me they should not have had so easy a prize, and 
 that it would teach me never to ride near a hedge, since, 
 had I been in the mid-way, they durst not have adventured 
 on me ; at which, they cocked their pistols, and told me 
 they had long guns, too, and were fourteen companions. I 
 begged for my onyx, and told them it being engraved with 
 my arms would betray them ; but nothing prevailed. My 
 horse's bridle they slipped, and searched the saddle, which 
 they pulled off, but let the horse graze, and then turning 
 again bridled him and tied him to a tree, yet so as he 
 might graze, and thus left me bound. My horse was per- 
 haps not taken, because he was marked and cropped on 
 both ears, and well known on that road. Left in this 
 manner, grievously was I tormented with flies, ants, and 
 the sun, nor was my anxiety little how I should get loose 
 in that solitary place, where I could neither hear nor see 
 any creature but my poor horse and a few sheep straggling 
 in the copse. 
 
 After near two hours attempting, I got my hands to 
 turn palm to palm, having been tied back to back, and 
 then it was long before I could slip the cord over my wrists 
 to my thumb, which at last I did, and then soon unbound 
 my feet, and saddling my horse and roaming a while about,
 
 1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 281 
 
 I at last perceived dust to rise, and soon after heard the 
 rattling of a cart, towards which I made, and, by the help 
 of two countrymen I got back into the highway. I rode 
 to Colonel Blount's, a great justiciary of the times, who 
 sent out hue and cry immediately. The next morning, 
 sore as my wrists and arms were, I went to London, and 
 got 500 tickets printed and dispersed by an officer of Gold- 
 smiths' Hall, and within two days had tidings of all I had 
 lost, except my sword, which had a silver hilt, and some 
 trifles. The rogues had pawned one of my rings for a 
 trifle to a goldsmith's servant, before the tickets came to 
 the shop, by which means they escaped ; the other ring 
 was bought by a victualler, who brought it to a goldsmith, 
 but he having seen the ticket, seized the man. I after- 
 wards discharged him on his protestation of innocence. 
 Thus, did God deliver me from these villains, and not only 
 so, but restored what they took, as twice before he had 
 graciously done, both at sea and land ; I mean when I had 
 been robbed by pirates, and was in danger of a consi- 
 derable loss at Amsterdam ; for which, and many, many 
 signal preservations, I am extremely obliged to give thanks 
 to God my Saviour. 
 
 25th. After a drought of near four months, there fell so 
 violent a tempest of hail, rain, wind, thunder, and light- 
 ning, as no man had seen the like in his age ; the hail 
 being in some places four or five inches about, brake all 
 glass about London, especially at Deptford, and more at 
 Greenwich. 
 
 29th. I returned to Tunbridge, and again drank the 
 water, till 10th July. 
 
 We went to see the house of my Lord Clanrickarde at 
 Summer-hill, near Tunbridge (now given to that villain, 
 Bradshawe, who condemned the King). 'Tis situated on 
 an eminent hill, with a park ; but has nothing else extra- 
 ordinary. 
 
 4th July. I heard a sermon at Mr. Packer's* chapel at 
 Groomsbridge,t a pretty melancholy seat, well wooded and 
 watered. In this house was one of the French Kings J 
 
 * Clerk of the Privy Seal to King Charles I. 
 
 ( In the parish of Speldhurst, in Kent, four miles from Tunbridge. 
 J The Duke of Orleans, taken at the battle of Agincourt, 4 Hen. V. by 
 Richard Waller, then owner of this place. Hasted's Kent, vol. I., p. 431.
 
 282 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 kept prisoner. The chapel was built by Mr. Packer's 
 father, in remembrance of King Charles the First's safe 
 return out of Spain.* 
 
 9th. We went to see Penshurst, the Earl of Leicester's, 
 famous once for its gardens and excellent fruit, and for the 
 noble conversation which was wont to meet there, cele- 
 brt/^d by that illustrious person,' ; Sir Philip Sidney, who 
 there composed divers of his pieces. It stands in a park, 
 is finely watered, and was now full of company, on the 
 marriage of my old fellow collegiate, Mr. Robert Smith, 
 who married my Lady Dorothy Sidney, f widow of the 
 Earl of Sunderland. 
 
 One of the men who robbed me was taken; I was 
 accordingly summoned to appear against him, and, on the 
 12th, was in Westminster Hall, but not being bound over, 
 nor willing to hang the fellow, I did not appear, coming 
 only to save a friend's bail; but the bill being found, he 
 was turned over to the Old Bailey. In the mean time, I 
 received a petition from the prisoner, whose father I under- 
 stood was an honest old farmer in Kent. He was charged 
 with other crimes, and condemned, but reprieved. I heard 
 afterwards that, had it not been for his companion, a 
 younger man, he would probably have killed me. He was 
 afterwards charged with some other crime, but, refusing to 
 plead, was pressed to death. 
 
 23rd. Came my old friend, Mr. Spencer, to visit me. 
 
 30th. I took advice about purchasing Sir Richard's 
 [Browne] interest of those who had bought Sayes Court. 
 
 1st August. Came old Jerome Lennier, of Greenwich, a 
 man skilled in painting and music, and another rare 
 musician, called Mell. I went to see his collection of pic- 
 tures, especially those of Julio Romano, which surely had 
 been the King's, and an Egyptian figure, &c. There were 
 also excellent things of Polydore, Gruido, Raphael, and 
 Tintoretto. Lennier had been a domestic of Queen Eliza- 
 beth, and showed me her head, an intaglio in a rare 
 sardonyx, cut by a famous Italian, which he assured me 
 was exceeding like her. 
 
 * With this inscription over the door, "D. 0. M. 1625. ob. felicissimum 
 Caroli Principle ex Hispaiiia reditum Sacellum hoc D. D. I. P. ; " over it_the 
 device of the Prince of Wales. Hasted's Kent, vol. I., p. 432. 
 
 f Mr. Waller's Sacharissa, daughter of Philip, Earl of Leicester.
 
 1652.] JOHN EVELYN. 283 
 
 24th. My first child, a son, was born precisely at one 
 o'clock. 
 
 2nd September. Mr. Owen, the sequestered divine of 
 Eltham, christened my son by the name of Richard. 
 
 22nd. I went to Woodcott, where Lady Browne was 
 taken with a scarlet fever, and died. She was carried to 
 Deptford, and interred in the church near Sir Richard's 
 relations with all decent ceremonies, and according to the 
 church-office, for which I obtained permission, after it had 
 not been used in that church for seven years. Thus ended 
 an excellent and virtuous lady, universally lamented, having 
 been so obliging on all occasions to those who continually 
 frequented her house in Paris, which was not only an hos- 
 pital, but an asylum to all our persecuted and afflicted 
 countrymen, during eleven years' residence there in that 
 honourable situation. 
 
 25th. I went to see Dr. Mason's house, so famous for the 
 prospect (for the house is a wretched one) and description 
 of Barclay's Icon Animarum.* 
 
 5th November. To London, to visit some friends, but the 
 insolences were so great in the streets that I could not 
 return till the next day. 
 
 Dr. Scarborough was instant with me to give the Tables 
 of Veins and Arteries to the College of Physicians, pre- 
 tending he would not only read upon them, but celebrate 
 my curiosity as being the first who caused them to be com- 
 pleted in that manner, and with that cost ; but I was not 
 so willing yet to part with them, as to lend them to the 
 College during their anatomical lectures; which I did, 
 accordingly. 
 
 22nd. I went to London, where was proposed to me 
 the promoting that great \vork, (since accomplished by 
 Dr. Walton, Bishop of Chester) Biblia Polyglotta, by 
 Mr. Pierson, that most learned divine. 
 
 25th December. Christmas-day, no sermon any where, 
 
 The book here referred to is in the British Museum, entitled, Joannis 
 Barclaii Icon Animarum," printed at London, 1614, small 12mo. It is written 
 in Latin, and is dedicated to Lewis XIII. of France, for what reason does 
 not appear, the author speaking of himself as a subject of this country. It 
 mentions the necessity of forming the minds of youth, as a skilful gardener 
 forms his trees ; the different dispositions of men, in different nations ; English, 
 Scotch, and Irish, &c. Cap. 2, contains a florid description of the beautiful 
 scenery about Greenwich ; but does not mention Dr. Mason, or his house.
 
 284 DIARY OF [SAYKS-COURT, 
 
 no church being permitted to be open, so observed it at 
 home. The next day, we went to Lewisham, where an 
 honest divine preached. 
 
 31st. I adjusted all accompts, and rendered thanks to 
 Almighty God for his mercies to me the year past. 
 
 1st January, 1652-3. I set apart in preparation for the 
 Blessed Sacrament, which the next day Mr. Owen admi- 
 nistered to me and all my family in Sayes Court, preach- 
 ing on John, vi. 32, 33, showing the exceeding benefits 
 of our Blessed Saviour taking our nature upon him; He 
 had christened my son and churched my wife in our own 
 house, as before noticed. 
 
 17th. I began to set out the oval garden at Sayes Court, 
 which was before a rude orchard, and all the rest one entire 
 field of 100 acres, without any hedge, except the hither 
 holly-hedge joining to the bank of the mount walk. This 
 was the beginning of all the succeeding gardens, walks, 
 groves, enclosures, and plantations there. 
 
 21st. I went to London, and sealed some of the writings 
 of my purchase of Sayes Court. 
 
 30th. At our own parish-church, a stranger preached. 
 There was now and then an honest orthodox man got into 
 the pulpit, and, though the present incumbent was some- 
 what of the Independent, yet he ordinarily preached sound 
 doctrine, and was a peaceable man ; which was an extra- 
 ordinary felicity in this age. 
 
 1st February. Old Alexander Rosse (author of " Virgil- 
 ius Evangelizans," and many other little books) presented 
 me with his book against Mr. Hobbes's " Leviathan." 
 
 19th. I planted the orchard at Sayes Court; new moon, 
 wind west. 
 
 22nd. Was perfected the sealing, livery and seisin of 
 my purchase of Sayes Court. My brother, George Glan- 
 ville, Mr. Scudamore, Mr. Offley, Co. William Glanville 
 (son to Serjeant Glanville, sometime Speaker of the 
 House of Commons), Co. Stephens, and several of my 
 friends, dining with me. I had bargained for 3200/., but 
 I paid 3500/. 
 
 25th March. Came to see me that rare graver in taille- 
 douce, Monsieur llichett ; he was sent by Cardinal Maza- 
 rine to make a collection of pictures. 
 
 llth April. I went to take the air in Hyde Park, where
 
 1653.] JOHN EVELYN. 2S5 
 
 every coach was made to pay a shilling, and horse sixpence, 
 by the sordid fellow who had purchased it of the State, as 
 they were called. 
 
 17th May. My servant, Hoare, who wrote those exqui- 
 site several hands, fell of a fit of an apoplexy, caused, as I 
 suppose, by tampering with ? (mercury) about an experi- 
 ment in gold. 
 
 29th. I went to London, to take my last leave of my 
 honest friend, Mr. Barton, now dying : it was a great loss 
 to me and to my affairs. On the sixth of June, I attended 
 his funeral. 
 
 8th June. Came my brother George, Captain Evelyn, 
 the great traveller, Mr. Muschamp, my cousin, Thomas 
 Keightly, and a virtuoso, fantastical Simons,* who had the 
 talent of embossing so to the life. 
 
 9th. I went to visit my worthy neighbour, Sir Henry 
 Newton [at Charlton] , and consider the prospect, which is 
 doubtless for city, river, ships, meadows, hill, woods, and 
 all other amenities, one of the most noble in the world ; 
 so as, had the house running water, it were a princely seat. 
 Mr. Henshaw and his brother-in-law, came to visit me, and 
 he presented me with a seleniscope. 
 
 19th. This day, I paid all my debts to a farthing; oh, 
 blessed day ! 
 
 21st. My Lady Gerrard and one Esquire Knight, a very 
 rich gentleman, living in Northamptonshire, visited me. 
 
 23rd. Mr. Lombart, a famous graver, came to see my 
 collections. 
 
 27th. Monsieur Koupel sent me a small phial of his 
 aurum pOtabile, with a letter showing the way of adminis- 
 tering it, and the stupendous cures it had done at Paris ; 
 but, ere it came to me, by what accident I know not, it 
 was all run out. 
 
 17th August. I went to visit Mr. Hyldiard, at his house 
 at Horsley (formerly the great Sir Walter Raleigh's f), 
 where met me Mr. Oughtred, the famous mathematician ; 
 he showed me a box, or golden case, of divers rich and 
 aromatic balsams, which a chymist, a scholar of his, had 
 sent him out of Germany. 
 
 * Thomas Simons, a strange character, but most excellent modeller after 
 life, and engraver of medals. 
 
 f This is a mistake ; Mr. Hyldiard was of East Horsley, Sir Walter of 
 West.
 
 DIARY OF SAYES-COURT, 
 
 2lst. I heard that good old man, Mr. Higham, the 
 parson of the parish of Wottoii where I was born, and 
 who had baptized me, preach after his very plain way on 
 Luke, comparing this troublesome world to the sea, the 
 ministers to the fishermen, and the saints to the fish. 
 
 22nd. We all went to Guildford, to rejoice at the 
 famous inn, the Red Lion, and to see the Hospital, and 
 the monument of Archbishop Abbot, the founder, who 
 lies buried in the chapel of his endowment. 
 
 28th September. At Greenwich, preached that holy 
 martyr, Dr. Hewer, on Psalm xc. 11, magnifying the 
 grace of God to penitents, and threatening the extinction 
 of his Gospel light for the prodigious impiety of the age. 
 
 llth October. My son, John Stansfield, was born, being 
 my second child, and christened by the name of my 
 mother's father, that name now quite extinct, being of 
 Cheshire. Christened by Mr. Owen, in my library at 
 Sayes Court, where he afterwards churched my wife, I 
 always making use of him on these occasions, because the 
 parish minister durst not have officiated according to the 
 form and usage of the Church of England, to which I 
 always adhered. 
 
 25th. Mr. Owen preached in my library at Sayes Court 
 on Luke, xviii. 7, 8, an excellent discourse on the unjust 
 judge, showing why Almighty God would sometimes be 
 compared by such similitudes. He afterwards adminis- 
 tered to us all the Holy Sacrament. 
 
 28th. Went to London, to visit my Lady Gerrard, where 
 I saw that cursed woman called the Lady Norton, of whom 
 it was reported that she spit in our King's face as he went 
 to the scaffold. Indeed, her talk and discourse was like an 
 impudent woman. 
 
 21st November. I went to London, to speak with Sir 
 John Evelyn, my kinsman, about. the purchase of an 
 estate of Mr. Lambard's at Westeram, which afterwards 
 Sir John himself bought for his son-in-law, Leech. 
 
 4th December. Going this day to our church, I was 
 surprised to see a tradesman, a mechanic, step up ; I was 
 resolved yet to stay and see what he would make of it. 
 His text was from 2 Sam. xxiii. 20 : " And Benaiah 
 went down also and slew a lion in the midst of a pit in the 
 time of snow ; " the purport was, that no danger was to be
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 287 
 
 thought difficult when God called for shedding of blood, 
 inferring that now the saints were called to destroy tem- 
 poral governments ; with such feculent stuff; so dangerous 
 a crisis were things grown to ! 
 
 25th. Christmas-day. No churches, or public assembly. 
 I was fain to pass the devotions of that Blessed day with 
 my family at home. 
 
 1653-4. 20th January. Came to see me my old ac- 
 quaintance and the most incomparable player on the Irish 
 harp, Mr. Clarke,* after his travels. He was an excellent 
 musician, a discreet gentleman, born in Devonshire (as I 
 remember). Such music before or since did I never hear, 
 that instrument being neglected for its extraordinary dif- 
 ficulty; but, in my judgment, far superior to the lute itself, 
 or whatever speaks with strings. 
 
 25th. Died my son, J. Standsfield, of convulsion-fits; 
 buried at Deptford on the east corner of the church, near 
 his mother's great-grandfather, and other relatives. 
 
 8th February. Ash- Wednesday. In contradiction to all 
 custom and decency, the usurper, Cromwell, feasted at the 
 Lord Mayor's, riding in triumph through the city. 
 
 14th. I saw a tame lion play familiarly with a lamb ; he 
 was a huge beast, and I thrust my hand into his mouth 
 and found his tongue rough like a cat's ; a sheep also with 
 six legs, which made use of five of them to walk ; a goose 
 that had four legs, two crops, and as many vents. 
 
 29th March. That excellent man, Mr. Owen, preached 
 in my library on Matt, xxviii. 6, a resurrection-sermon, and 
 after it we all received the Holy Communion. 
 
 6th April. Came my Lord Herbert, Sir Kenelm Digby, 
 Mr. Denham, and other friends, to see me. 
 
 15th. I went to London, to hear the famous Dr. Jeremy 
 Taylor (since Bishop of Down and Connor) at St. Gre- 
 gory's (near St. Paul's) on Matt. vi. 48, concerning 
 evangelical perfection. 
 
 5th May. I bound my lackey, Thomas Headly, appren- 
 tice to a carpenter, giving with him five pounds and new 
 clothing ; he thrived very well, and became rich. 
 
 8th. I went to Hackney, to see Lady Brook's garden, 
 which was one of the neatest and most celebrated in Eng- 
 land, the house well furnished, but a despicable building. 
 
 * See under the year 1668, November.
 
 288 DIARY OF [WINDSOR, 
 
 Returning, visited one Mr. Tomb's garden ; it has large 
 and noble walks, some modern statues, a vineyard, planted 
 in strawberry borders, staked at ten feet distances ; the 
 banqueting-house of cedar, where the couch and scats were 
 carved a V antique ; some good pictures in the house, espe- 
 cially one of Vandyke's, being a man in his shirt ; also 
 some of Stenwyck. I also called at Mr. Ducie's, who has 
 indeed a rare collection of the best masters, and one of 
 the largest stories of H. Holbein. I also saw Sir Thomas 
 Fowler's aviary, which is a poor business. 
 
 10th. My Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Gar- 
 den,* now the only place of refreshment about the town 
 for persons of the best quality to be exceedingly cheated 
 at ; Cromwell and his partisans having shut up and seized 
 on Spring Garden, which, till now, had been the usual 
 rendezvous for the ladies and gallants at this season. 
 
 llth. I now observed how the women began to paint 
 themselves, formerly a most ignominious thing, and used 
 only by prostitutes. 
 
 14th. There being no such thing as church-annivers- 
 aries in the parochial assemblies, I was forced to provide at 
 home for Whit Sunday. 
 
 15th. Came Sir Robert Stapylton, the translator of 
 " Juvenal/' to visit me. 
 
 8th June. My wife and I set out in a coach and four 
 horses, in our way to visit relations of hers in Wiltshire, 
 and other parts, where we resolved to spend some months. 
 We dined at Windsor, saw the Castle and Chapel of 
 St. George, where they have laid our blessed Martyr, King 
 Charles, in the vault just before the altar. The church and 
 workmanship in stone is admirable. The Castle itself is 
 large in circumference ; but the rooms melancholy, and of 
 ancient magnificence. The keep, or mount, hath, besides 
 its incomparable prospect, a very profound well ; and the 
 terrace towards Eaton, with the park, meandering Thames, 
 and sweet meadows, yield one of the most delightful pros- 
 pects. That night, we lay at Reading. Saw my Lord 
 
 Buckingham House (now the Royal Palace) was built on the site of these 
 gardens : see Dr. King, III. 73, ed. 1776 ; Malcolm's Londinium Redivivum, 
 IV. 263 ; but the latter afterwards, p. 327, says that the piece of ground 
 called the Mulberry Garden was granted by Charles II., in 1 672, to Henry, 
 Earl of Arlington ; in that case, it would be what is now called Arlington 
 Street, unless it extended up to the Royal Palace.
 
 1634.] JOHN EVELYN. 89 
 
 Craven's house at Causam Caversham, now in ruins, his 
 goodly woods felling by the Rebels. 
 
 9th. Dined at Marlborough, which having been lately 
 fired, was now new built. At one end of this town, we 
 saw my Lord Seymour's house,* but nothing observable 
 save the Mount, to which we ascended by windings for 
 near half a mile. It seems to have been cast up by hand. 
 We passed by Colonel Popham's, a noble seat, park, and 
 river. Thence, to Newbury, a considerable town, and 
 Donnington, famous for its battle, siege, and castle : this 
 last had been in the possession of old Geoffrey Chaucer. 
 Then to Aldermaston, a house of Sir Humphry Forster's, 
 built a la moderne. Also, that exceedingly beautiful seat 
 of my Lord Pembroke, on the ascent of a hill, flanked 
 with wood, and regarding the river; and so, at night, to 
 Cadenham, the mansion of Edward Hungerford, Esq., 
 uncle to my wife, where we made some stay. The rest of 
 the week we did nothing but feast and make good cheer, 
 to welcome my wife. 
 
 27th. We all went to see Bath, where I bathed in the 
 cross bath. Amongst the rest of the idle diversions of the 
 town, one musician was famous for acting a changeling, 
 which indeed he personated strangely. 
 
 The facciata of this cathedral is remarkable for its his- 
 torical carving. The King's Bath is esteemed the fairest 
 in Europe. The town is entirely built of stone, but the 
 streets narrow, uneven, and unpleasant. Here, we trifled 
 and bathed, and inter-visited with the company who fre- 
 quent the place for health, till the 30th, and then went to 
 Bristol, a city emulating London, not for its large extent, 
 but manner of building, shops, bridge, traffic, exchange, 
 market-place, &c. The governor showed us the castle, of 
 no great concernment. The city wholly mercantile, as 
 standing near the famous Severn, commodiously for Ireland, 
 and the Western world. Here, I first saw the manner 
 of refining sugar and casting it into loaves, where we had 
 a collation of eggs fried in the sugar furnace, f together 
 with excellent Spanish wine. But, what appeared most 
 
 * Now the famous inn there. 
 
 f A kind of entertainment like that we have of eating beef-steaks drest 
 on the stoker's shovel, and drinking porter at the famous brewhouses in 
 London. 
 
 VOL. I. U
 
 290 DIARY OP [OXFORD, 
 
 stupendous to me, was the rock of St. Vincent, a little dis- 
 tance from the town, the precipice whereof is equal to any- 
 thing of that nature I have seen in the most confragose 
 cataracts of the Alps, the river gliding between them at an 
 extraordinary depth. Here, we went searching for diamonds, 
 and to the Hot Wells, at its foot. There is also on the side 
 of this horrid Alp a very romantic seat : and so we returned 
 to Bath in the evening, and July 1 to Cadenham. 
 
 4th July. On a letter from my wife's uncle, Mr. 
 Pretyman, I waited back on her to London, passing by 
 Hungerford, a town famous for its trouts, and the next day 
 arrived at Deptford, which was 60 miles, in the extremity 
 of heat. f 
 
 6th. I went early to London, and the following day met 
 my wife and company at Oxford, the eve of the Act. 
 
 8th. Was spent in hearing several exercises in the 
 schools ; and, after dinner, the Proctor opened the Act at 
 St. Mary's (according to custom), and the Prevaricators, 
 their drollery. Then, the Doctors disputed. We supped 
 at Wadham College. 
 
 9th. Dr. French preached at St. Mary's, on Matt. xii. 
 42, advising the students the search after true wisdom, 
 not to be had in the books of philosophers, but in the 
 Scriptures alone. In the afternoon, the famous Inde- 
 pendent, Dr. Owen, perstringing Episcopacy. He was now 
 Cromwell's Vice-Chancellor. We dined with Dr. Ward, 
 Mathematical Professor (since Bishop of Sarum), and at 
 night supped in Baliol College Hall, where I had once 
 been student and fellow-commoner, and where they made 
 me extraordinarily welcome. 
 
 10th. On Monday, I went again to the schools, to hear 
 the several faculties, and in the afternoon tarried out the 
 whole Act in St. Mary's, the long speeches of the Proctors, 
 the Vice-Chancellor, the several Professors, creation of 
 Doctors, by the cap, ring, kiss, &c., those ancient ceremo- 
 nies and institution being as yet not wholly abolished. 
 Dr. Kendal, now Inceptor amongst others, performing his 
 Act incomparably well, concluded it with an excellent 
 oration, abating his Presbyterian animosities, which he 
 withheld, not even against that learned and pious divine, 
 Dr. Hammond. The Act was closed with the speech of 
 the Vice-Chancellor, there being but four in theology, and
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 291 
 
 three in medicine, which was thought a considerable 
 matter, the times considered. I dined at one Monsieur 
 Fiat's, a student of Exeter College, and supped at a mag- 
 nificent entertainment at Wadham Hall, invited by my 
 dear and excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins, then Warden 
 (after, Bishop of Chester). 
 
 llth. Was the Latin sermon, which I could not be at, 
 though invited, being taken up at All Souls, where we had 
 music, voices, and theorbos, performed by some ingenious 
 scholars. After dinner, I visited that miracle of a youth, 
 Mr. Christopher Wren, nephew to the Bishop of Ely. 
 Then Mr. Barlow (since Bishop of Lincoln), bibliothecarius 
 of the Bodleian Library, my most learned friend. He 
 showed us the rarities of that most famous place, manu- 
 scripts, medals, and other curiosities. Amongst the MSS. 
 an old English Bible, wherein the Eunuch mentioned to 
 be baptized by Philip, is called the Gelding : " and Philip 
 and the Gelding went down into the water," &c. The 
 original Acts of the Council of Basil 900 years since, with 
 the bulla, or leaden affix, which has a silken cord passing 
 through every parchment; a MS. of Venerable Bede of 
 800 years' antiquity ; the old Ritual secundum usum Sarum, 
 exceeding voluminous; then, among the nicer curiosities, 
 the Proverbs of Solomon, written in French by a lady,* 
 every chapter of a several character, or hand, the most 
 exquisite imaginable; an hieroglyphical table, or carta, 
 folded up like a map ; I suppose it painted on asses' hide, 
 extremely rare ; but, what is most illustrious, there were no 
 less than 1000 MSS., in nineteen languages, especially 
 oriental, furnishing that new part of the library built by 
 Archbishop Laud, from a design of Sir Kenelm Digby and 
 the Earl of Pembroke. In the closet of the tower, they 
 show some Indian weapons, urns, lamps, &c., but the 
 rarest is the whole Alcoran, written on one large sheet of 
 calico, made up in a priest's vesture, or cope, after the 
 Turkish and Arabic character, so exquisitely written, as no 
 printed letter comes near it ; also, a roll of magical charms, 
 divers talismans, and some medals. 
 
 Then, I led my wife into the Convocation-House, finely 
 
 * Mrs. Esther Inglish, married to Bartholomew Kello, rector of Willing- 
 hall Spain, in Essex. See an account of her curious penmanship, in Massey'a 
 Origin and Progress of Letters. 
 
 17 2
 
 292 DIARY OF [OXFORD, 
 
 wainscoted; the Divinity School and Gothic carved roof; 
 the Physic, or Anatomy School, adorned with some rarities 
 of natural things ; but nothing extraordinary save the skin 
 of a jackal, a rarely-coloured jacatoo, or prodigious large 
 parrot, two humming birds, not much bigger than our 
 humble-bee, which indeed I had not seen before, that I 
 remember. 
 
 1 2th. We went to St. John's, saw the library and the 
 two skeletons, which are finely cleansed and put together ; 
 observable is here also the store of mathematical instru- 
 ments, chiefly given by the late Archbishop Laud, who 
 built here a handsome quadrangle. 
 
 Thence, we went to New College, where the chapel was 
 in its ancient garb, notwithstanding the scrupulosity of 
 the times. Thence, to Christ's Church, in whose library 
 was showed us an Office of Henry VIII., the writing, 
 miniatures, and gilding whereof is equal, if not surpassing, 
 any curiosity I had seen of that kind ; it was given by 
 their founder, Cardinal Wolsey. The glass windows of 
 the cathedral (famous in my time) I found much abused. 
 The ample hall and column, that spreads its capital to 
 sustain the roof as one goes up the stairs, is very 
 remarkable. 
 
 Next, we walked to Magdalen College, where we saw 
 the library and chapel, which was likewise in pontifical 
 order, the altar only I think turned tablewise, and there 
 was still the double organ, which abominations (as now 
 esteemed) were almost universally demolished; Mr. Gibbon, 
 that famous musician, giving us a taste of his skill and 
 talents on that instrument. 
 
 Hence, to the Physic Garden, where the sensitive plant 
 was showed us for a great wonder. There grew canes, 
 olive-trees, rhubarb, but no extraordinary curiosities, besides 
 very good fruit, which, when the ladies had tasted, we 
 returned in our coach to our lodgings. 
 
 13th. We all dined at that most obliging and universally- 
 curious Dr. Wilkins's, at Wadham College. He was the 
 first who showed me the transparent apiaries, which he 
 had built like castles and palaces, and so ordered them one 
 upon another, as to take the honey without destroying the 
 bees. These were adorned with a variety of dials, little 
 statues, vanes, &c. ; and, he was so abundantly civil, find-
 
 1C54.] JOHN EVELYN. 293 
 
 ing me pleased with them, to present me with one of the 
 hives which he had empty, and which I afterwards had in 
 my garden at Sayes Court, where it continued many years, 
 and which his Majesty came on purpose to see and con- 
 template with much satisfaction. He had also contrived a 
 hollow statue, which gave a voice and uttered words by a 
 long concealed pipe that went to its mouth,* whilst one 
 speaks through it at a good distance. He had, above in 
 his lodgings and gallery, variety of shadows, dials, perspec- 
 tives, and many other artificial, mathematical, and magical 
 curiosities, a way-wiser, a thermometer, a monstrous mag- 
 net, conic, and other sections, a balance on a demi-circle, 
 most of them of his own, and that prodigious young scholar 
 Mr. Christopher Wren, who presented me with a piece of 
 white marble, which he had stained with a lively red, very 
 deep, as beautiful as if it had been natural. 
 
 Thus satisfied with the civilities of Oxford, we left it, 
 dining at Farringdon, a town which had been newly fired 
 during the wars ; and, passing near the seat of Sir Walter 
 Pye,f we came to Cadenham. 
 
 16th. We went to another uncle and relative of my 
 wife's, Sir John Glanville, a famous lawyer, formerly 
 Speaker of the House of Commons ; his seat is at Broad- 
 Hinton, where he now lived, but in the Gatehouse, his 
 very fair dwelling-house having been burnt by his own 
 hands, to prevent the rebels making a garrison of it. Here, 
 my cousin William Glanville's eldest son showed me such 
 a lock for a door, that for its filing and rare contrivances 
 was a master-piece, yet made by a country-blacksmith. 
 But, we have seen watches made by another with as much 
 curiosity as the best of that profession can brag of; and, 
 not many years after, there was nothing more frequent 
 than all sorts of iron-work more exquisitely wrought and 
 polished than in any part of Europe, so as a door-lock of a 
 tolerable price was esteemed a curiosity even among foreign 
 princes. 
 
 Went back to Cadenham, and, on the 19th, to Sir Edward 
 Baynton's at Spie Park, a place capable of being made a 
 noble* seat ; but the humorous old Knight has built a long 
 
 * This reminds us of the speaking figures so long exhibited in Spring 
 Gardens, and in Leicester Fields, many years ago. 
 f Ancestor of the Poet-Laureate.
 
 094 DIARY OF [SALISBURY, 
 
 single house of two low stories on the precipice of an in- 
 comparable prospect, and landing on a bowling-green in 
 the park. The house is like a long barn, and has not a 
 window on the prospect side. After dinner, they went to 
 bowls, and, in the meantime, our coachmen were made so 
 exceeding drunk, that in returning home we escaped great 
 dangers. This, it seems, was by order of the Knight, that 
 all gentlemen's servants be so treated ; but the custom is 
 barbarous, and much unbecoming a Knight, still less a 
 Christian. 
 
 20th. We proceeded to Salisbury ; the cathedral I take 
 to be the completest piece of Gothic work in Europe, 
 taken in all its uniformity. The pillars, reputed to be 
 cast, are of stone manifestly cut out of the quarry ; most 
 observable are those in the chapter-house. There are 
 some remarkable monuments, particularly the ancient 
 Bishops, founders of the Church, Knights Templars, the 
 Marquis of Hertford's, the cloisters of the palace and 
 garden, and the great mural dial. 
 
 In the afternoon, we went to Wilton, a fine house of the 
 Earl of Pembroke, in which the most observable are the 
 dining-room in the modern-built part towards the garden, 
 richly gilded and painted with story, by De Creete ; also, 
 some other apartments, as that of hunting-landscapes, by 
 Pierce ; some magnificent chimney-pieces, after the best 
 French manner ; a pair of artificial winding-stairs, of stone, 
 and divers rare pictures. The garden, heretofore esteemed 
 the noblest in England, is a large handsome plain, with a 
 grotto and water-works, which might be made much more 
 pleasant, were the river that passes through cleansed and 
 raised ; for all is effected by a mere force. It has a flower 
 garden, not inelegant. But, after all, that which renders 
 the seat delightful is, its being so near the downs and noble 
 plains about the country contiguous to it. The stables 
 are well ordered and yield a graceful front, by reason of 
 the walks of lime-trees, with the court and fountain of the 
 stables adorned with the Caesar's heads. 
 
 We returned this evening by the plain, and 14-mile 
 race, where out of my lord's hare-warren we were enter- 
 tained with a long course of a hare for near two miles in 
 sight. Near this, is a pergola, or stand, built to view the 
 sports: and so we came to Salisbury, and saw the most
 
 1C54.] JOHN EVELYN. , 295 
 
 considerable parts of the city. The market-place, with 
 most of the streets, are watered by a quick current and 
 pure stream running through the middle of them, but are 
 negligently kept, when with small charge they might be 
 purged and rendered infinitely agreeable, and this made 
 one of the sweetest towns, but now the common buildings 
 are despicable, and the streets dirty. 
 
 22nd. We departed and dined at a farm of my Uncle 
 Hungerford's, called Darneford Magna, situate in a valley 
 under the plain, most sweetly watered, abounding in trouts 
 catched by spear in the night, when they come attracted 
 by a light set in the stern of a boat. 
 
 After dinner, continuing our return, we passed over the 
 goodly plain, or rather sea of carpet, which I think for 
 evenness, extent, verdure, and innumerable flocks, to be 
 one of the most delightful prospects in nature, and re- 
 minded me of the pleasant lives of shepherds we read of 
 in romances. 
 
 Now we were arrived at Stone-henge, indeed a stupend- 
 ous monument, appearing at a distance like a castle ; how 
 so many and huge pillars of stone should have been 
 brought together, some erect, others transverse on the tops 
 of them, in a circular area as rudely representing a cloister 
 or heathen and more natural temple, is wonderful. The 
 stone is so exceeding hard, that all my strength with a 
 hammer could not break a fragment ; which hardness I 
 impute to their so long exposure. To number them ex- 
 actly is very difficult, they lie in such variety of postures 
 and confusion, though they seemed not to exceed 100 ; 
 we counted only 95. As to their being brought thither, 
 there being no navigable river near, is by some admired ; 
 but for the stone, there seems to be the same kind about 
 20 miles distant, some of which appear above ground. 
 About the same hills, are divers mounts raised, conceived 
 to be ancient intrenchments, or places of burial, after bloody 
 fights. We now went by the Devizes, a reasonable large 
 town, and came late to Cadenham. 
 
 27th. To the hunting of a sorel deer, and had excellent 
 chace for four or five hours, but the venison little worth. 
 
 29th. I went to Langford, to see my cousin, Stephens. 
 I also saw Dryfield, the house heretofore of Sir John 
 Pretyman, grandfather to my wife, and sold by her uncle ;
 
 96 DIARY OP [GLOUCESTER, 
 
 both the seat and house very honourable and well-built, 
 much after the modern fashion. 
 
 31st. Taking leave of Cadenham, where we had been 
 long and nobly entertained, we went a compass into Leices- 
 tershire, where dwelt another relation of my wife's; for 
 I indeed made these excursions to show her the most con- 
 siderable parts of her native country, who, from her child- 
 hood, had lived altogether in France, as well as for my own 
 curiosity and information. 
 
 About two miles before coming to Gloucester, we have 
 a prospect from woody hills into a most goodly vale and 
 country. Gloucester is a handsome city, considerable for 
 the church and monuments. The Minster is indeed a 
 noble fabric. The whispering gallery is rare, being through 
 a passage of twenty-five yards, in a many-angled cloister, 
 and was, I suppose, either to show the skill of the architect, 
 or- some invention of a cunning priest, who, standing un- 
 seen in a recess in the middle of the chapel, might hear 
 whatever was spoken at either end. This is above the 
 choir, in which lies buried King Stephen* under a monu- 
 ment of Irish oak, not ill carved considering the age. The 
 new library is a noble though a private design. I was 
 likewise pleased with the Severn gliding so sweetly by it. 
 The Duke's house, the castle works, are now almost quite 
 dismantled ; nor yet without sad thoughts did I see the 
 town, considering how fatal the siege had been a few years, 
 before to our good King. 
 
 1st August. We set out towards Worcester, by a way 
 thick planted with cider-fruit. We deviated to the Holy 
 Wells, trickling out of a valley through a steep declivity 
 towards the foot of the great Malvern Hills ; they are said 
 to heal many infirmities, as king's evil, leprosy, sore 
 eyes, &c. Ascending a great height above them to the 
 trench dividing England from South Wales, we had the 
 prospect of all Herefordshire, Radnor, Brecknock, Mon- 
 mouth, Worcester, Gloucester, Shropshire, Warwick, Derby 
 shires, and many more. We could discern Tewkesbury,, 
 Kings-road, towards Bristol, &c. ; so as I esteem it one of 
 the goodliest vistas in England. 
 
 2nd. This evening, we arrived at Worcester, the Judges 
 
 * King Stephen was buried at Feversham. The effigy here alluded to is. 
 that of Robert Curthose, Duke of Normandy.
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 297 
 
 of Assize and Sheriff just entering as we did. Viewing the 
 town the next day, we found the cathedral much ruined 
 by the late wars, otherwise a noble structure. The town 
 is neatly paved and very 'dean, the goodly river Severn 
 running by it, and standing in a most fertile country. 
 
 3rd. We passed next through Warwick, and saw the cas- 
 tle, the dwelling-house of the Lord Brook, and the furniture 
 noble. It is built on an eminent rock which gives prospect 
 into a most goodly green, a woody and plentifully watered 
 country ; the river running so delightfully under it, that 
 it may pass for one of the most surprising seats one should 
 meet with. The gardens are prettily disposed ; but might 
 be much improved. Here they show us Sir Guy's great 
 two-handed sword, staff, horse-arms, pot, and other relics 
 of that famous knight-errant. Warwick is a fair old town, 
 and hath one church full of ancient monuments. 
 
 Having viewed these, I went to visit my worthy friend, 
 Sir H. Puckering, at the Abbey, and, though a melancholy 
 old seat, yet in a rich soil. 
 
 Hence, to Sir Guy's grot, where they say he did his 
 penances, and died. It is a squalid den made in the rock, 
 crowned yet with venerable oaks and looking on a goodly 
 stream, so as, were it improved as it might be, it were 
 capable of being made a most romantic and pleasant place. 
 Near this, we were showed his chapel and gigantic statue 
 hewn out of the solid rock, out of which there are likewise 
 divers other caves cut, and some very capacious. 
 
 The next place to Coventry. The Cross is remarkable 
 for Gothic work and rich gilding, comparable to any I 
 had ever seen, except that of Cheapside in London, now 
 demolished. This city has many handsome churches, a 
 beautiful wall, a fair free-school and library to it; the 
 streets full of great shops, clean and well-paved. At going 
 forth the gate, they show us the bone, or rib, of a wild 
 boar, said to have been killed by Sir Guy, but which I take 
 to be the chine of a whale. 
 
 4th. Hence, riding through a considerable part of Lei- 
 cestershire, an open, rich, but unpleasant country, we came 
 late in the evening to Horninghold, a seat of my wife's 
 uncle [not named] .* 
 
 * Probably Hungerford (seep. 289). Sir Edward Hungerford, K.B., pre- 
 sented to the vicarage of Horninghold, in 1676.
 
 298 DIARY OF [OAKHAM, 
 
 7th. Went to Uppingham, the shire-town of Rutland, 
 pretty and well-built of stone, which is a rarity in that 
 part of England, where most of the rural parishes are but 
 of mud, and the people living as wretchedly as in the 
 most impoverished parts of France, which they much 
 resemble, being idle and sluttish. The country (especially 
 Leicestershire) much in common ; the gentry free drinkers. 
 
 9th. To the old and ragged city of Leicester, large and 
 pleasantly seated, but despicably built, the chimney-flues 
 like so many smiths' forges ; however, famous for the tomb 
 of the tyrant, Richard the Third, which is now converted 
 to a cistern, at which (I think) cattle drink. Also, here 
 in one of the churches lies buried the magnificent Cardinal 
 Wolsey. John of Gaunt has here also built a large but 
 poor Hospital, near which a wretch has made him a house 
 out of the ruins of a stately church. Saw the rains of an 
 old Roman Temple, thought to be of Janus. Entertained 
 at a very fine collection of fruits, such as I did not expect 
 to meet with so far North, especially very good melons. 
 We returned to my uncle's. 
 
 14th. I took a journey into the Northern parts, riding 
 through Oakham, a pretty town in Rutlandshire, famous 
 for the tenure of the Barons (Ferrers), who hold it by 
 taking off a shoe from every nobleman's horse that passes 
 with his lord through the street, unless redeemed with a 
 certain piece of money. In token of this, are several gilded 
 shoes nailed up on the castle-gate,* which seems to have 
 been large and fair. Hence, we went by Brook, a very 
 sweet seat and park of the old Lady Camden's. Next, by 
 Burleigh House, belonging to the Duke of Buckingham,t 
 and worthily reckoned among the noblest seats in Eng- 
 land, situate on the brow of a hill, built a la moderne near 
 a park walled in, and a fine wood at the descent. 
 
 Now we were come to Cottsmore, a pretty seat belong- 
 ing to Mr. Heath, son to the late Lord Chief Justice of 
 that name. Here, after dinner, parting with the company 
 that conducted us thus far, I passed that evening by 
 Belvoir Castle, built on a round mount at the point of a 
 
 A shoe was paid for by the Duke of York, in 1788. 
 
 f Called Burleigh-on-the-Hill, for distinction from the Earl of Exeter's, 
 near Stamford. The Duke of Buckingham sold it to the family of Finch, now 
 Earl of Winchelsea and Nottingham, to whom it belongs.
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 99 
 
 long ridge of hills, which affords a stately prospect, and 
 is famous for its strenuous resistance in the late civil 
 war. 
 
 Went by Newark-on-Trent, a brave town and garrison. 
 Next, by Wharton House, belonging to the Lord Chaworth, 
 a handsome seat : then, by Home, a noble place belonging 
 to the Marquis of Dorchester, and passed the famous river 
 Trent, which divides the South from the North of Eng- 
 land ; and so lay that night at Nottingham. 
 
 This whole town and county seems to be but one 
 entire rock, as it were, an exceeding pleasant shire, full of 
 gentry. Here, I observed divers to live in the rocks and 
 caves, much after the manner as about Tours, in France.* 
 The church is well built on an eminence ; there is a fair 
 house of the Lord Clare's, another of Pierrepont's ; an 
 ample market-place ; large streets, full of crosses ; the 
 relics of an ancient castle hollowed, beneath which are 
 many caverns, especially that of the Scots' King, and his 
 work whilst there. 
 
 This place is remarkable for being the place where his 
 Majesty first erected his standard at the beginning of 
 our late unhappy differences. The prospects from this 
 city towards the river and meadows are most delightful. 
 
 15th. We passed next through Sherwood Forest, ac- 
 counted the most extensive in England. Then, Paple- 
 wick, an incomparable vista with the pretty castle near it. 
 Thence, we saw Newstead Abbey, belonging to the Lord 
 Byron, situated much like Fontainebleau, in France, t capa- 
 ble of being made a noble seat, accommodated as it is with 
 brave woods and streams ; it has yet remaining the front 
 of a glorious abbey church. Next, by Mansfield town ; 
 then Welbeck, the house of the Marquis of Newcastle, 
 seated in a bottom in a park, and environed with woods, a 
 noble yet melancholy seat. The palace is a handsome and 
 stately building. Next to Worksop Abbey, almost demo- 
 lished; the church has a double flat tower entire, and 
 a pretty gate. The manor belongs to the Earl of Arundel, 
 and has to it a fair house at the foot of a hill in a park 
 that affords a delicate prospect. Tickel, a town and 
 castle, has a very noble prospect. All these in Notting- 
 hamshire. 
 
 See p. 71. t See p. 57.
 
 300 DIARY OF [YORK, 
 
 16th. We arrived at Doncaster, where we lay this night; 
 it is a large fair town, famous for great wax-lights, and 
 good stockings. 
 
 17th. Passed through Pontefract ; the castle, famous for 
 many sieges both of late and ancient times, and the death 
 of that unhappy King murdered in it (Richard II.), was 
 now demolishing by the Rebels ; it stands on a mount, and 
 makes a goodly show at a distance. The Queen has a, 
 house here, and there are many fair seats near it, especially 
 Mr. Pierrepont's, built at the foot of a hill out of the castle 
 ruins. We all alighted in the highway to drink at a crystal 
 spring, which they call Robin Hood's Well ; near it, is a 
 stone chair, and an iron ladle to drink out of, chained to 
 the seat. We rode to Tadcaster, at the side of which we 
 have prospect of the Archbishop's Palace (which is a noble 
 seat), and in sight of divers other gentlemen's fair houses. 
 This tract is a goodly, fertile, well-watered and wooded 
 country, abounding with pasture and plenty of provisions. 
 
 To York, the second city of England, fairly walled, of a 
 circular form, watered by the brave river Ouse, bearing 
 vessels of considerable burthen on it ; over it is a stone 
 bridge emulating that of London, and built on ; the middle 
 arch is larger than any I have seen in England, with a 
 wharf of hewn stone, which makes the river appear very 
 neat. But most remarkable and worthy seeing is St. Peter's 
 Cathedral, which of all the great churches in England 
 had been best preserved from the fury of the sacrilegious,* 
 by composition with the Rebels when they took the city, 
 during the many incursions of Scotch and others. It is a 
 most entire magnificent piece of Gothic architecture. The 
 screen before the choir is of stone carved with flowers > 
 running work, and statues of the old kings. Many of the 
 monuments are very ancient. Here, as a great rarity in 
 these days and at this time, they showed me a Bible and 
 Common Prayer-Book covered with crimson velvet, and 
 richly embossed with silver gilt; also a service for the 
 altar of gilt wrought plate, flagons, basin, ewer, chalices, 
 patins, &c., with a gorgeous covering for the altar and 
 pulpit, carefully preserved in the vestry, in the hollow wall 
 whereof rises a plentiful spring of excellent water. I got 
 up to the tower, whence we had a prospect towards Dur- 
 
 * By Sir Thomas Fairfax.
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 301 
 
 ham, and could see Ripon, part of Lancashire, the famous 
 and fatal Marston Moor, the Spas of Knaresborough, and 
 
 all the environs of that admirable country. Sir 
 
 Ingoldsby has here a large house, gardens, and tennis 
 court ; also the King's house and church near the castle, 
 which was modernly fortified with a palisade and bas- 
 tions. The streets are narrow and ill-paved, the shops like 
 London. 
 
 18th. We went to Beverley, a large town with two 
 stately churches, St. John's and St. Mary's, not much 
 inferior to the best of our cathedrals. Here a very old 
 woman showed us the monuments, and, being above 100 
 years of age, spake the language of Queen Mary's days, in 
 whose time she was born ; she was widow of a sexton who 
 had belonged to the church a hundred years. 
 
 Hence, we passed through a fenny but rich country to 
 Hull, situate like Calais, modernly and strongly fortified 
 with three block-houses of brick and earth. It has a good 
 market-place and harbour for ships. Famous also (or 
 rather infamous) is this town for Hotham's refusing en- 
 trance to his Majesty. The water-house is worth seeing. 
 And here ends the South of Yorkshire. 
 
 19th. We pass the Humber, an arm of the sea of about 
 two leagues breadth. The weather was bad, but we crossed 
 it in a good barge to Barton, the first town in that part of 
 Lincolnshire. All marsh ground till we came to Brigg, 
 famous for the plantations of licorice, and then had brave 
 pleasant riding to Lincoln, much resembling Salisbury 
 Plain. Lincoln is an old confused town, very long, uneven, 
 steep, and ragged ; formerly full of good houses, especially 
 churches and abbeys. The Minster almost comparable to 
 that of York itself, abounding with marble pillars, and 
 having a fair front. Herein was interred Queen Eleanora, 
 the loyal and loving wife who sucked the poison out of her 
 husband's wound ; the abbot, founder, with rare carving 
 in the stone ; the great bell, or Tom, as they call it ; I 
 went up the steeple, from whence is a goodly prospect all 
 over the country. The soldiers had lately knocked oft* 
 most of the brasses from the grave-stones, so as few inscrip- 
 tions were left ; they told us that these men went in with 
 axes and hammers, and shut themselves in, till they had 
 rent and torn off some barge-loads of metal, not sparing
 
 302 DIARY OF [PETERBOROUGH, 
 
 even the monuments of the dead ; so hellish an avarice 
 possessed them : besides which, they exceedingly ruined 
 the city. 
 
 Here, I saw a tall woman six feet two inches high, comely, 
 middle-aged, and well-proportioned, who kept a very neat 
 and clean ale-house, and got most by people's coming to 
 see her on account of her height. 
 
 20th. From hence we had a most pleasant ride over a 
 large heath open like Salisbury Plain, to Grantham, a 
 pretty town, so well situated on the side of a bottom, which 
 is large and at a distance environed with ascending grounds, 
 that for pleasure I consider it comparable to most inland 
 places of England ; famous is the steeple for the exceeding 
 height of the shaft, which is of stone. 
 
 About eighteen miles South, we pass by a noble seat, 
 and see Boston, at a distance. Here, we came to a parish 
 of which the parson hath tithe ale. 
 
 Thence through Rutland, we brought night to Horning- 
 hold, from whence I set out on this excursion. 
 
 22nd. I went a setting and hawking, where we had 
 tolerable sport. 
 
 25th. To see Kirby, a very noble house of my Lord 
 Hatton's, in Northamptonshire, built a la moderne ; the 
 garden and stables agreeable, but the avenue ungraceful, 
 and the seat naked : returned that evening. 
 
 27th. Mr. Allington preached an excellent discourse 
 from Romans vi. 19. This was he who published those 
 bold sermons of the members warring against the mind, 
 or the Jews crucifying Christ, applied to the wicked 
 regicides ; for which he was ruined. We had no sermon 
 in the afternoon. 
 
 80th. Taking leave of my friends, who had now feasted 
 me more than a month, I, with my wife, &c., set our faces 
 towards home, and got this evening to Peterborough, 
 passing by a stately palace (Thorpe) of St. John's (one 
 deep in the blood of our good King), built out of the 
 ruins of the Bishop's palace and cloister. The church is 
 exceeding fair, full of monuments of great antiquity. Here 
 lies Queen Catharine, the unhappy wife of Henry VIII., 
 and the no less unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scots. On 
 the steeple, we viewed the fens of Lincolnshire, now much 
 inclosed and drained with infinite expense, and by many
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 303 
 
 sluices, cuts, mounds, and ingenious mills, and the like 
 inventions ; at which the city and country about it, con- 
 sisting of a poor and very lazy sort of people, were much 
 displeased. 
 
 Peterborough is a handsome town, and hath another 
 well-built church. 
 
 31st. Through part of Huntingdonshire, we passed that 
 town, fair and ancient, a river running by it. The country 
 about it so abounds in wheat that, when any King of 
 England passes through it, they have a custom to meet 
 him with a hundred ploughs. 
 
 This evening, to Cambridge ; and went first to St. John's 
 College, well built of brick, and library, which I think is 
 the fairest of that University. One Mr. Benlowes * has 
 given it all the ornaments of pietra commessa,f whereof 
 a table and one piece of perspective is very fine ; other 
 trifles there also be of no great value, besides a vast old 
 song-book, or Service, and some fair manuscripts. There 
 hangs in the library the picture of John Williams, Arch- 
 bishop of York, sometime Lord Keeper, my kinsman, and 
 their great benefactor. 
 
 Trinity College is said by some to be the fairest quad- 
 rangle of any University in Europe j but in truth is far 
 inferior to that of Christ Church, in Oxford; the hall is 
 ample and of stone, the fountain in the quadrangle is 
 graceful, the chapel and library fair. There, they showed 
 us the prophetic manuscript of the famous Grebner, but 
 the passage and emblem which they would apply to our 
 late King, is manifestly relating to the Swedish ; in truth, 
 it seems to be a mere fantastic rhapsody, however the title 
 may bespeak strange revelations. There is an office in 
 manuscript with fine miniatures, and some other antiquities 
 given by the Countess of Richmond, mother of Henry VII., 
 and the before-mentioned Archbishop Williams, when 
 Bishop of Lincoln. The library is pretty well stored. 
 The Greek Professor had me into another large quadrangle 
 cloistered and well-built, and gave us a handsome collation 
 in his own chamber. 
 
 Thence to Caius, and afterwards to King's College, 
 
 * Edward Benlowes, Esq., a writer of Divine Poesy, of a good family in 
 Essex, and of a good estate, but which he wasted by improvident liberality, 
 and buying curiosities, as Wood says. Wood's Fasti, 876. 
 
 t Marble, inlaid of various colours, representing flowers, birds, &c.
 
 304 DIARY OF [CAMBRIDGE, 
 
 where I found the chapel altogether answered expectation, 
 especially the roof all of stone, which for the flatness of 
 its laying and carving may, I conceive, vie with any in 
 Christendom. The contignation of the roof (which I 
 went upon), weight, and artificial joining of the stones, is 
 admirable. The lights are also very fair. In one aisle, 
 lies the famous Dr. Collins, so celebrated for his fluency in 
 the Latin tongue. From this roof, we could descry Ely, 
 and the encampment of Sturbridge fair now beginning to 
 set up their tents and booths ; also Royston, Newmarket, 
 &c., houses belonging to the King. The library is too 
 narrow. 
 
 Clare-Hall is of a new and noble design, but not finished. 
 
 Peter-House, formerly under the government of my 
 worthy friend, Dr. Joseph Cosin, Dean of Peterborough;* 
 a pretty neat college, having a delicate chapel. Next to 
 Sidney, a fine college. 
 
 Catharine-Hall, though a mean structure, is yet famous 
 for the learned Bishop Andrews, once Master. Emanuel 
 College, that zealous house, where to the hall they have a 
 parlour for the Fellows. The chapel is reformed, ab origine, 
 built north and south, and meanly erected, as is the 
 library. 
 
 Jesus-College, one of the best built, but in a melancholy 
 situation. Next to Christ-College, a very noble erection, 
 especially the modern part, built without the quadrangle 
 towards the gardens, of exact architecture. 
 
 The Schools are very despicable, and Public Library 
 but mean, though somewhat improved by the wainscoting 
 and books lately added by the Bishop Bancroft's library, 
 -and MSS. They showed us little of antiquity, only 
 King James's Works, being his own gift, and kept very 
 reverently. 
 
 The market-place is very ample, and remarkable for old 
 Hobson the pleasant carrier's beneficence of a fountain.t 
 But the whole town is situate in a low dirty unpleasant 
 place, the streets ill-paved, the air thick and infected by 
 the fens, nor are its churches (of which St. Mary's is the 
 best) anything considerable, in compare to Oxford.J 
 
 Ejected from all his preferments, in 1640, or 1641. Afterwards, Bishop 
 of Durham. 
 
 + It is rather a conduit. 
 J The reader must remember that an Oxford man is speaking.
 
 1654.] JOHN EVELYN. 305 
 
 From Cambridge, we went to Audley-End, and spent 
 some time in seeing that goodly palace built by Howard, 
 Earl of Suffolk, once Lord Treasurer. It is a mixed fabric, 
 betwixt antique and modern, but observable for its being 
 completely finished, and without comparison is one of the 
 stateliest palaces in the kingdom. It consists of two 
 courts, the first very large, winged with cloisters. The 
 front had a double entrance ; the hall is fair, but some- 
 what too small for so august a pile. The kitchen is very 
 large, as are the cellars arched with stone, very neat and 
 well disposed ; these offices are joined by a wing out of the 
 way very handsomely. The gallery is the most cheerful, 
 and I think one of the best in England; a fair dining- 
 room, and the rest of the lodgings answerable, with a 
 pretty chapel. The gardens are not in order, though well 
 inclosed. It has also a bowling-alley, a nobly well-walled, 
 wooded, and watered park, full of fine collines and ponds : 
 the river glides before the palace, to which is an avenue of 
 lime-trees, but all this is much diminished by its being 
 placed in an obscure bottom. For the rest, it is a perfectly 
 uniform structure, and shows without like a diadem, by 
 the decorations of the cupolas and other ornaments on the 
 pavilions ; instead of rails and balusters, there is a border 
 of capital letters, as was lately also on Suffolk-House, near 
 Charing-Cross, built by the same Lord Treasurer.* 
 
 This house stands in the parish of Saffron Walden, 
 famous for the abundance of saffron there cultivated, and 
 esteemed the best of any foreign country. 
 
 3rd October. Having dined here, we passed through 
 Bishop Stortford, a pretty watered town, and so by 
 London, late home to Sayes Court, after a journey of 700 
 miles, but for the variety an agreeable refreshment after 
 my turmoil and building. 
 
 10th. To my brother at "Wotton, who had been sick. 
 
 14th. I went to visit my noble friend, Mr. Hyldiard, 
 where I met that learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier, 
 and Dr. Stokes, one of his Majesty's Chaplains. 
 
 15th. To Betchworth Castle, to Sir Ambrose Browne, 
 and other gentlemen of my sweet and native country. 
 
 24th. The good old parson, Higham, preached at 
 
 * Where Suffolk Street stood. 
 VOL. I. X
 
 306 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 Wotton Church : a plain preacher, but innocent and 
 honest man. 
 
 23rd November. I went to London, to visit my cousin 
 Fanshawe, and this day I saw one of the rarest collections 
 of agates, onyxes, and intaglios, that I had ever seen 
 either at home or abroad, collected by a conceited old hat- 
 maker in Blackfriars, especially one agate vase, hereto- 
 fore the great Earl of Leicester's. 
 
 28th. Came Lady Langham, a kinswoman of mine, to 
 visit us ; also one Captain Cooke, esteemed the best singer, 
 after the Italian manner, of any in England; he entertained 
 us with his voice and theorbo. 
 
 31st. My birth-day, being the 34th year of my age : 
 blessing God for His providence, I went to London to visit 
 my brother. 
 
 3rd December. Advent Sunday. There being no Office 
 at the church but extemporary prayers after the Presbyte- 
 rian way, for now all forms were prohibited, and most of 
 the preachers were usurpers, I seldom went to church 
 upon solemn feasts ; but, either went to London, where 
 some of the orthodox sequestered Divines did privately use 
 the Common Prayer, administer sacraments, &c., or else I 
 procured one to officiate in my house ; wherefore, on the 
 10th, Dr. Richard Owen, the sequestered minister of 
 Eltham, preached to my family in my library, and gave 
 us the holy Communion. 
 
 25th. Christmas-day. No public offices in churches, but 
 penalties on observers, so as I was constrained to celebrate 
 it at home. 
 
 1654-5. 1st January. Having with my family performed 
 the public offices of the day, and begged a blessing on the 
 year I was now entering, I went to keep the rest of 
 Christmas at my brother's, R. Evelyn, at Woodcot. 
 
 19th. My wife was brought to bed of another son, being 
 my third, but second living. Christened on the 26th by the 
 name of John. 
 
 28th. A stranger preached from Colossians, iii. 2, 
 inciting our affections to the obtaining heavenly things. 
 I understood afterwards that this man had been both 
 Chaplain and Lieutenant to Admiral Penn, using both 
 swords, whether ordained or not I cannot say ; into such 
 times were we fallen !
 
 1655.] JOHN EVELYN. 307 
 
 24th February. I was showed a table-clock whose balance 
 was only a crystal ball, sliding on parallel wires, without 
 being at all fixed, but rolling from stage to stage till fall- 
 ing on a spring concealed from sight, it was thrown up to 
 the upmost channel again, made with an imperceptible 
 declivity, in this continual vicissitude of motion prettily 
 entertaining the eye every half minute, and the next half 
 giving progress to the hand that showed the hour, and 
 giving notice by a small bell, so as in 120 half minutes, or 
 periods, of the bullet's falling on the ejaculatory spring, the 
 clock-part struck. This very extraordinary piece (richly 
 adorned) had been presented by some German Prince to 
 our late King, and was now in possession of the Usurper; 
 valued at 200/. 
 
 2nd March. Mr. Simpson, the King's jeweller, showed 
 me a most rich agate cup, of an escalop-shape, and having 
 a figure of Cleopatra at the scroll, her body, hair, mantle, 
 and veil, of the several natural colours. It was supported 
 by a half Mark Antony, the colours rarely natural, and the 
 work truly antique, but I conceived they were of several 
 pieces ; had they been all of one stone, it were invaluable. 
 
 18th. Went to London, on purpose to hear that excellent 
 preacher, Dr. Jeremy Taylor, on Matt. xiv. 17, showing 
 what were the conditions of obtaining eternal life : also, 
 concerning abatements for unavoidable infirmities, how 
 cast on the accounts of the cross. On the 31st, I made a 
 visit to Dr. Jeremy Taylor, to confer with him about some 
 spiritual matters, using him thenceforward as my ghostly 
 father. I beseech God Almighty to make me ever mindful 
 of, and thankful for, His heavenly assistances ! 
 
 2nd April, This was the first week that my uncle, 
 Pretyman, being parted with his family from me, I began 
 housekeeping, till now sojourning with him in my own 
 house. 
 
 9th. I went to see the great ship newly built by the 
 Usurper, Oliver, carrying ninety-six brass guns, and 1000 
 tons burthen. In the prow was Oliver on horseback, 
 trampling six nations under foot, a Scot, Irishman, Dutch- 
 man, Frenchman, Spaniard, and English, as was easily 
 made out by their several habits. A Fame held a laurel 
 over his insulting head ; the word, God with us. 
 
 15th. I went to London with my family, to celebrate the
 
 OQg DIARY OF [RYEGATE, 
 
 feast of Easter. Dr. Wild preached at St. Gregory's; the 
 ruling Powers conniving at the use of the Liturgy, &c., in 
 this church alone. In the afternoon, Mr. Pierson (since 
 Bishop of Chester) preached at Eastcheap,butwas disturbed 
 by an alarm of fire, which about this time was very frequent 
 in the City. 
 
 29th May. I sold Preston to Colonel Morley. 
 
 17th June. There was a collection for the persecuted 
 churches and Christians in Savoy, remnants of the ancient 
 Albigenses. 
 
 3rd July. I was showed a pretty Terella, described with 
 all the circles, and showing all the magnetic deviations. 
 
 14th. Came Mr. Pratt, my old acquaintance at Rome, 
 also Sir Edward Hales, Sir Joseph Tufton, with Mr. 
 Seymour. 
 
 1st August. I went to Dorking, to see Mr. Charles 
 Howard's amphitheatre, garden, or solitary recess,* being 
 fifteen acres environed by a hill. He showed us divers rare 
 plants, caves, and an elaboratory. 
 
 10th. To Albury, to visit Mr. Howard, who had begun 
 to build, and alter the gardens much. He showed me many 
 rare pictures, particularly the Moor on horseback; Erasmus, 
 as big as the life, by Holbein ; a Madonna, in miniature, 
 by Oliver; but, above all, the Skull, carved in wood, by 
 Albert Durer, for which his father was offered 100/. ; also 
 Albert's head, by himself, with divers rare agates, intaglios, 
 and other curiosities. 
 
 21st. I went to Ryegate, to visit Mrs. Gary, at my Lady 
 Peterborough's, in an ancient monastery well in repair, but 
 the park much defaced; the house is nobly furnished. 
 The chimney-piece in the great chamber, carved in wood, 
 was of Henry VIII., and was taken from an house of his 
 in Blechingley. At Ryegate, was now the Archbishop of 
 Armagh, the learned James Usher, whom I went to visit. 
 He received me exceeding kindly. In discourse with him, 
 he told me how great the loss of time was to study much 
 the Eastern languages ; that, excepting Hebrew, there was 
 little fruit to be gathered of exceeding labour ; that, besides 
 some mathematical books, the Arabic itself had little con- 
 siderable ; that the best text was the Hebrew Bible ; that 
 
 Called Deepden, the property of Thomas Hope, Esq.
 
 1655.] JOHN EVELYN. 309 
 
 the Septuagint was finished in seventy days, but full of 
 errors, about which he was then writing; that St. Hierome's 
 was to be valued next the Hebrew ; also that the seventy 
 translated the Pentateuch only, the rest was finished by 
 others ; that the Italians at present understood but little 
 Greek, and Kircherwas a mountebank; that Mr. Selden's 
 best book was his " Titles of Honour ; " that the Church 
 would be destroyed by sectaries, who would in all likeli- 
 hood bring in Popery. In conclusion, he recommended 
 to me the study of philology, above all human studies; 
 and so, with his blessing, I took my leave of this excellent 
 person, and returned to Wotton. 
 
 27th. I went to Boxhill, to see those rare natural bowers, 
 cabinets, and shady walks in the box-copses : hence, we 
 walked to Mickleham, and saw Sir F. Stidolph's seat, 
 environed with elm-trees and walnuts innumerable, and of 
 which last he told us they received a considerable revenue. 
 Here are such goodly walks and hills shaded with yew and 
 box, as render the place extremely agreeable, it seeming 
 from these ever-greens to be summer all the winter. 
 
 28th. Camethatrenownedmathematician,Mr. Oughtred* 
 to see me, I sending my coach to bring him to Wotton, 
 being now very aged. Amongst other discourse, he told 
 me he thought water to be the philosopher's first matter, 
 and that he was well persuaded of the possibility of their 
 elixir ; he believed the sun to be a material fire, the moon 
 a continent, as appears by the late Selenographers ; he had 
 strong apprehensions of some extraordinary event to happen 
 the following year, from the calculation of coincidence with 
 the diluvian period ; and added that it might possibly be 
 to convert the Jews by our Saviour's visible appearance, or 
 to judge the world ; and, therefore, his word was, Par ate in 
 occursum ; he said original sin was not met with in the 
 Greek Fathers, yet he believed the thing ; this was from 
 some discourse on Dr. Taylor's late book, which Iliad lent 
 him. 
 
 16th September. Preached at St. Gregory's one Darnel, 
 on Psalm iv. 4, concerning the benefit of self-examination ; 
 more learning in so short a time as an hour I have seldom 
 heard. 
 
 * Rector of Albury, of whom there are several excellent engravings by 
 W. Hollar.
 
 31Q DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 17th. Received 26007. of Mr. Hurt, for the Manor of 
 Warley Magna, in Essex, purchased by me some time since. 
 The taxes were so intolerable that they eat up the rents, &c., 
 surcharged as that county had been above all others during 
 our unnatural war. 
 
 19th. Came to see me Sir Edward Hales, Mr. Ashmole, 
 Mr. Harlakenton, and Mr. Thornhill : and, the next day, 
 I visited Sir Henry Newton, at Charlton, where I met the 
 Earl of Winchelsea and Lady Beauchamp, daughter to the 
 Lord Capel. 
 
 On Sunday afternoon, I frequently staid at home to 
 catechise and instruct my family, those exercises univer- 
 sally ceasing in the parish churches, so as people had no 
 principles, and grew very ignorant of even the common 
 points of Christianity ; all devotion being now placed in 
 hearing sermons and discourses of speculative and notional 
 things. 
 
 26th. I went to see Colonel Blount's subterranean war- 
 ren, and drank of the wine of his vineyard, which was good 
 for little. 
 
 31st. Sir Nicholas Crisp came to treat with me about 
 his vast design of a mole * to be made for ships in part of 
 my grounds at Sayes Court. 
 
 3rd November. I had accidentally discourse withaPersian 
 and a Greek concerning the devastation of Poland by the 
 late incursion of the Swedes. 
 
 27th. To London, about Sir Nicholas Crisp's designs. 
 
 I went to see York House and gardens, belonging to the 
 former great Buckingham, but now much ruined through 
 neglect, f 
 
 Thence, to visit honest and learned Mr. Hartlib,J a 
 public spirited and ingenious person, who had propagated 
 many useful things and arts. He told me of the castles 
 which they set for ornament on their stoves in Germany 
 
 * See hereafter, under 1662, January. 
 
 t The Duke's names and titles are still preserved in the buildings erected 
 on the site ; viz. George Street, Villiers Street, Duke Street, Off Alley, Buck- 
 ingham Street. 
 
 J Samuel Hartlib. Milton's Tractate of Education is addressed to him. 
 Mr. Todd, in his Life of that Poet, prefixed to the last Edition of his Poetical 
 Works, observes that " a Life of Hartlib is a desideratum in English Bio- 
 graphy : " there are ample materials for it in the publications of the time.
 
 1655.] JOHN EVELYN. 311 
 
 (he himself being a Lithuanian, as I remember), which are 
 furnished with small ordnance of silver on the battlements, 
 out of which they discharge excellent perfumes about the 
 rooms, charging them with a little powder to set them on 
 fire, and disperse the smoke ; and, in truth, no more than 
 need ; for their stoves are sufficiently nasty. He told me 
 of an ink that would give a dozen copies, moist sheets of 
 paper being pressed on it, and remain perfect ; and a 
 receipt how to take off any print without the least injury 
 to the original. This gentleman was master of innumerable 
 curiosities, and very communicative. I returned home 
 that evening by water, and was afflicted for it with a cold 
 that had almost killed me. 
 
 This day, came forth the Protector's Edict, or Proclama- 
 tion, prohibiting all ministers of the Church of England 
 from preaching or teaching any schools, in which he imi- 
 tated the apostate, Julian ; with the decimation of all the 
 royal party's revenues throughout England. 
 
 14th December. I visited Mr. Hobbes, the famous phi- 
 losopher of Malmesbury, with whom I had been long 
 acquainted in France. 
 
 Now were the Jews admitted. 
 
 25th. There was no more notice taken of Christmas- 
 day in churches. 
 
 I went to London, where Dr. Wild preached the funeral 
 sermon of Preaching, this being the last day ; after which, 
 Cromwell's proclamation was to take place, that none of 
 the Church of England should dare either to preach, or 
 administer Sacraments, teach school, &c., on pain of 
 imprisonment, or exile. So this was the mournfullest day 
 that in my life I had seen, or the Church of England her- 
 self, since the Reformation ; to the great rejoicing of both 
 Papist and Presbyter.* So pathetic was his discourse, 
 that it drew many tears from the auditory. Myself, wife, 
 and some of our family, received the Communion ; God 
 make me thankful, who hath hitherto provided forus thefood 
 of our souls as well as bodies ! The Lord Jesus pity our 
 distressed Church, and bring back the captivity of Zion ! 
 
 * The text was 2 Cor. xiii. 9. That, however persecution dealt with the 
 Ministers of God's Word, they were still to pray for the flopk, and wish their 
 perfection, as it was the flock to pray for and assist their pastors, by the 
 example of St. Paul. J. E.
 
 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 1655-6. 5th January. Came to visit me my Lord Lisle, 
 son to the Earl of Leicester, with Sir Charles Ouseley, two 
 of the Usurper's council; Mr. John Hervey, and John 
 Denham, the poet. 
 
 18th. Went to Eltham on foot, being a great frost, hut 
 a mist falling as I returned, gave me such a rheum as kept 
 me within doors near a whole month after. 
 
 5th February. "Was showed me a pretty perspective and 
 well represented in a triangular box, the great Church of 
 Haarlem in Holland, to be seen through a small hole at one 
 of the corners, and contrived into a handsome cabinet. It 
 was so rarely done, that all the artists and painters in town 
 nocked to see and admire it. 
 
 10th. I heard Dr. Wilkins* preach before the Lord 
 Mayor in St. Paul's, showing how obedience was prefer- 
 able to sacrifice. He was a most obliging person, who 
 had married the Protector's sister, and took great pains to 
 preserve the Universities from the ignorant sacrilegious 
 commanders and soldiers, who would fain have demolished 
 all places and persons that pretended to learning. 
 
 llth. I ventured to go to Whitehall, wiiere of many 
 years I had not been, and found it very glorious and well- 
 furnished, as far as I could safely go, and was glad to find 
 they had not much defaced that rare piece of Henry VII,, 
 &c., done on the walls of the King's privy chamber. 
 
 14th. I dined with Mr. Berkeley, son of Lord Berkeley, 
 of Berkeley Castle, where I renewed my acquaintance with 
 my Lord Bruce, my fellow-traveller in Italy. 
 
 19th. Went with Dr. Wilkinsto see Barlow, the famous 
 painter of fowls, beasts, and birds. 
 
 4th March. This night I was invited by Mr. Roger 
 L'Estrange to hear the incomparable Lubicer on the violin. 
 His variety on a few notes and plain ground, with that 
 wonderful dexterity, was admirable. Though a young 
 man, yet so perfect and skilful, that there was nothing, 
 however cross and perplexed, brought to him by our artists, 
 which he did not play off at sight Avith ravishing sweetness 
 and improvements, to the astonishment of our best masters. 
 In sum, he played on the single instrument a full concert, 
 so as the rest flung down their instruments, acknowledging 
 
 Afterwards, Bishop of Chester.
 
 1656.] JOHN EVELYN. 313 
 
 the victory. As to my own particular, I stand to this 
 hour amazed that God should give so great perfection to 
 so young a person. There were at that time as excellent 
 in their profession as any were thought to be in Europe, 
 Paul Wheeler, Mr. Mell, and others, till this prodigy 
 appeared. I can no longer question the eifects we read of 
 in David's harp to charm evil spirits, or what is said some 
 particular notes produced in the passions of Alexander, and 
 that King of Denmark. 
 
 12th April. Mr. Berkeley and Mr. Kobert Boyle (that 
 excellent person and great virtuoso), Dr. Taylor, and Dr. 
 Wilkins, dined with me at Sayes Court, when I presented 
 Dr. Wilkins with my rare burning-glass. In the after- 
 noon, we all went to Colonel Blount' s, to see his new-invented 
 ploughs. 
 
 22nd. Came to see Mr. Henshaw and Sir William Pas- 
 ton's son, since Earl of Yarmouth. Afterwards, I went to 
 see his Majesty's house at Eltham, both palace and chapel 
 in miserable ruins, the noble woods and park destroyed by 
 Rich, the rebel. 
 
 6th May. I brought Monsieur le Franc, a young French 
 Sorbonnist, a proselyte, to converse with Dr. Taylor ; they 
 fell to dispute on original sin, in Latin, upon a book 
 newly published by the Doctor, who was much satisfied 
 with the young man. Thence, to see Mr. Dugdale, our 
 learned antiquary and herald. Returning, I was showed 
 the three vast volumes of Father Kircher's, "Obeliscus 
 Pamphilius" and " jEgyptiacus ;" in the second volume, I 
 found the hieroglyphic I first communicated and sent to 
 him at Rome by the hands of Mr. Henshaw, whom he 
 mentions. I designed it from the stone itse,lf brought me 
 to Venice from Cairo by Captain Powell.* 
 
 7th. I visited Dr. Taylor, and prevailed on him to pro- 
 pose Monsieur le Franc to the Bishop that he might have 
 Orders, I having sometime before brought him to a full 
 consent to the Church of England, her doctrine and dis- 
 cipline, in which he had till of late made some difficulty ; 
 so he was this day ordained both deacon and priest by the 
 Bishop of Meath. I paid the fees to his lordship, w r ho was 
 very poor and in great want ; to that necessity were our 
 
 * See pp. 212, 213.
 
 DIARY OF [COLCHESTER, 
 
 clergy reduced ! In the afternoon, I met Alderman 
 Robinson, to treat with Mr. Papillion about the marriage 
 of my cousin, George Tuke, with Mrs. Fontaine. 
 
 8th. I went to yisit Dr. Wilkins, at Whitehall, when I 
 first met with Sir P. Neale, famous for his optic glasses. 
 Greatorix, the mathematical instrument-maker, showed 
 me his excellent invention to quench fire. 
 
 12th. Was published my Essay on Lucretius,* with 
 innumerable errata by the negligence of Mr. Triplet, who 
 undertook the correction of the press in my absence. Little 
 of the Epicurean philosophy Avas then known amongst us. 
 
 28th. I dined with Nieuport, the Holland Ambassador, 
 who received me with extraordinary courtesy. I found 
 him a judicious, crafty, and wise man. He gave me 
 excellent cautions as to the danger of the times, and the 
 circumstances our nation was in. I remember the obser- 
 vation he made upon the ill success of our former Par- 
 liaments, and their private animosities, and little care of 
 the public. 
 
 Came to visit me the old Marquis of Argyle (since 
 executed), Lord Lothian, and some other Scotch noble- 
 men, all strangers to me. Note, the Marquis took the 
 turtle-doves in the aviary for owls. 
 
 The Earl of Southampton (since Treasurer) and Mr. 
 Spencer, brother to the Earl of Sunderland, came to see 
 my garden. 
 
 7th July. I began my journey to see some parts of the 
 north-east of England; but the weather was so excessive 
 hot and dusty, I shortened my progress. 
 
 8th. To Colchester, a fair town, but now wretchedly 
 demolished by the late siege, especially the suburbs, which 
 were all burnt, but were then repairing. The town is 
 built on a rising ground, having fair meadows on one side, 
 
 * A translation into English verse of the first book only, the frontispiece 
 to which was designed by Mr. Evelyn's lady. Prefixed to the copy in 
 the library at Wotton, is this note in his own handwriting : " Never was book 
 so abominably misused by printer : never copy so negligently surveyed by 
 one who undertook to look over the proof-sheets with all exactness and care ; 
 namely, Dr. Triplet, well known for his ability, and who pretended to oblige 
 me in my absence, and so readily offered himself. This good yet I received 
 by it, that publishing it vainly, its ill success at the printer's discouraged me 
 with troubling the world with the rest."
 
 1656.] JOHN EVELYN. 315 
 
 and a river with a strong ancient castle, said to have been 
 built by King Coilus, father of Helena, mother of Con- 
 stantine the Great, of whom I find no memory save at the 
 pinnacle of one of their wool-staple houses, where is a 
 statue of Coilus, in wood, wretchedly carved. The walls 
 are exceeding strong, deeply trenched, and filled with 
 earth. It has six gates, and some watch-towers, and some 
 handsome churches. But what was showed us as a kind 
 of miracle, at the outside of the Castle, the wall where Sir 
 Charles Lucas and Sir George Lisle, those valiant and 
 noble persons who so bravely behaved themselves in the 
 last siege, were barbarously shot, murdered by Ireton in 
 cold blood, after surrendering on articles; having been 
 disappointed of relief from the Scotch army, which had 
 been defeated with the King at Worcester. The place 
 was bare of grass for a large space, all the rest of it 
 abounding with herbage. For the rest, this is a ragged 
 and factious town, now swarming with sectaries. Their 
 trading is in cloth with the Dutch, and baize and says with 
 Spain ; it is the only place in England where these stuffs 
 are made unsophisticated. It is also famous for oysters 
 and eringo-root, growing hereabout, and candied for sale. 
 
 Went to Dedham, a pretty country town, having a very 
 fair church, finely situated, the valley well watered. Here, 
 I met with Dr. Stokes, a young gentleman, but an excel- 
 lent mathematician. This is a clothing town, as most are 
 in Essex, but lies in the unwholesome hundreds. 
 
 Hence to Ipswich, doubtless one of the sweetest, most 
 pleasant, well-built towns in England. It has twelve fair 
 churches, many noble houses, especially the Lord Devereux's; 
 a brave quay, and commodious harbour, being about seven 
 miles from the main ; an ample market-place. Here was 
 born the great Cardinal Wolsey, who began a palace here, 
 which was not finished. 
 
 I had the curiosity to visit some Quakers here in prison; 
 a new fanatic sect, of dangerous principles, who show no 
 respect to any man, magistrate, or other, and seem a 
 melancholy, proud sort of people, and exceedingly ignorant. 
 One of these was said to have fasted twenty days; but 
 another, endeavouring to do the like, perished on the 10th, 
 when he would have eaten, but could not. 
 
 10th. I returned homeward, passing again through
 
 310 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Colchester; and, by the way, near the ancient town of 
 Chelmsford, saw New Hall, built in a park by Henry VII. 
 and VIII., and given by Queen Elizabeth to the Earl of 
 Sussex, who sold it to the late great Duke of Buckingham, 
 and since seized on by Oliver Cromwell (pretended Pro- 
 tector) . It is a fair old house, built with brick, low, being 
 only of two stories, as the manner then was ; the gate- 
 house, better ; the court, large and pretty ; the staircase, 
 of extraordinary wideness, with a piece representing Sir 
 Francis Drake's action in the year 1580, an excellent sea- 
 piece; the galleries are trifling; the hall is noble; the 
 garden a fair plot, and the whole Seat well accommodated 
 with water; but, above all, I admired the fair avenue 
 planted with stately lime trees, in four rows, for near a 
 mile in length. It has three descents, which is the only 
 fault, and may be reformed. There is another fair walk of 
 the same at the mall and wilderness, with a tennis-court, 
 and pleasant terrace towards the park, which was well 
 stored with deer and ponds. 
 
 llth. Came home by Greenwich ferry, where I saw Sir 
 J. Winter's project of charring sea-coal, to burn out the 
 sulphur, and render it sweet. He did it by burning the 
 coals in such earthen pots as the glass-men melt their 
 metal, so firing them without consuming them, using a 
 bar of iron in each crucible, or pot, which bar has a hook 
 at one end, that so the coals being melted in a furnace 
 with other crude sea-coals under them, may be drawn out 
 of the pots sticking to the iron, whence they are beaten off 
 in great half-exhausted cinders, which being re-kindled 
 make a clear pleasant chamber-fire, deprived of their 
 sulphur and arsenic malignity. What success it may have, 
 time will discover.* 
 
 3rd August. I went to London, to receive the Blessed 
 Sacrament, the first time the Church of England was 
 reduced to a chamber and conventicle ; so sharp was the 
 persecution. The parish-churches were filled with sectaries 
 of all sorts, blasphemous and ignorant mechanics usurping 
 the pulpits everywhere. Dr. Wildf preached in a private 
 
 * Many years ago, Lord Dundonald, a Scotch nobleman, revived the pro- 
 ject, but with the proposed improvement of extracting and saving the tar. 
 Unfortunately, his Lordship did not profit by it. The Gas Companies sell the 
 coal thus charred, by the name of coke, as fuel for many purposes. 
 
 f See note, p. 334.
 
 165G.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 house in Fleet-street, where we had a great meeting of 
 zealous Christians, who were generally much more devout 
 and religious than in our greatest prosperity. In the 
 afternoon, I went to the French Church in the Savoy, where 
 I heard Monsieur d'Espagne catechise, and so returned to 
 my house. 
 
 20th. Was a confused election of Parliament called by 
 the Usurper. 
 
 7th September. I went to take leave of my excellent 
 neighbour and friend, Sir H. Newton and lady, now going 
 to dwell at Warwick ; and Mr. Needham, my dear and 
 learned friend, came to visit me. 
 
 14th. Now was old Sir Henry Vane sent to Carisbrook 
 Castle, in Wight, for a foolish book he published; the pre- 
 tended Protector fortifying himself exceedingly, and send- 
 ing many to prison. 
 
 2nd October. Came to visit me my cousin, Stephens, and 
 Mr. Pierce (since Head of Magdalen College, Oxford), a 
 learned minister of Brington, in Northamptonshire, and 
 Captain Cooke, both excellent musicians. 
 
 2nd November. There was now nothing practical 
 preached, or that pressed reformation of life, but high 
 and speculative points and strains that few understood, 
 which left people very ignorant, and of no steady principles,, 
 the source of all our sects and divisions, for there was 
 much envy and uncharity in the world ; God of his mercy 
 amend it ! Now, indeed, that I went at all to church, 
 whilst these usurpers possessed the pulpits, was that I 
 might not be suspected for a Papist, and that, though the 
 minister was Presbyterianly affected, he yet was as I 
 understood duly ordained, and preached sound doctrine 
 after their way, and besides was an humble, harmless, and 
 peaceable man. 
 
 25th December. I went to London, to receive the Blessed 
 Communion this holy festival at Dr. Wild's lodgings, 
 where I rejoiced to find so full an assembly of devout and 
 sober Christians. 
 
 26th. I invited some of my neighbours and tenants, 
 according to custom, and to preserve hospitality and 
 charity. 
 
 28th. A stranger preached on Luke xviii. 7, 8, on which
 
 318 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 he made a confused discourse, with a great deal of Greek 
 and ostentation of learning, to but little purpose. 
 
 30th. Dined with me Sir William Paston's son, Mr. 
 Henshaw, and Mr. Clayton. 
 
 31st. I begged God's blessing and mercies for his good- 
 ness to me the past year, and set my domestic affairs in 
 order. 
 
 1656-7. 1st January. Having prayed with my family, and 
 celebrated the anniversary, I spent some time in imploring 
 God's blessing the year I was entered into. 
 
 7th. Came Mr. Matthew Wren (since secretary to the 
 Duke), slain in the Dutch war, eldest son to the Bishop of 
 Ely, now a prisoner in the Tower; a most worthy and 
 learned gentleman. 
 
 10th. Came Dr. Joyliffe, that famous physician and ana- 
 tomist, first detector of the lymphatic veins ; also the old 
 Marquis of Argyle, and another Scotch Earl. 
 
 5th February. Dined at the Holland Ambassador's ; he 
 told me the East India Company of Holland had constantly 
 a stock of 400,000/. in India, and forty-eight men-of-war 
 there: he spoke of their exact and just keeping their 
 books and correspondence, so as no adventurer's stock 
 could possibly be lost, or defeated ; that it was a vulgar 
 error that the Hollanders furnished their enemies with 
 powder and ammunition for their money, though engaged 
 in a cruel war, but that they used to merchandize indiffer- 
 ently, and were permitted to sell to the friends of their 
 enemies. He laughed at our Committee of Trade, as com- 
 posed of men wholly ignorant of it, and how they were the 
 ruin of commerce, by gratifying some for private ends. 
 
 10th. I went to visit the Governor of Havannah, a brave, 
 sober, valiant Spanish gentleman, taken by Captain Young, 
 of Deptford, when, after twenty years being in the Indies, 
 and amassing great wealth, his lady and whole family, 
 except two sons, were burnt, destroyed, and taken within 
 sight of Spain, his eldest son, daughter, and wife, perishing 
 with immense treasure.* One son, of about seventeen 
 years old, with his brother of one year old, were the only 
 ones saved. The young gentleman, about seventeen, was 
 a well-complexioned youth, not olive-coloured ; he spake 
 
 * This disastrous event is particularly noticed in Waller's poem on a War 
 with Spain. Fight at Sea, by General Montague, 1656.
 
 1657.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 Latin handsomely, was extremely well-bred, and born in 
 the Caraccas, 1000 miles south of the Equinoctial, near 
 the mountains of Potosij he had never been in Europe 
 before. The Governor was an ancient gentleman of great 
 courage, of the order of St. Jago, sore wounded in his arm, 
 and his ribs broken; he lost for his own share 100,000/. 
 sterling, which he seemed to bear with exceeding indiffer- 
 ence, and nothing dejected. After some discourse, I went 
 with them to Arundel- House, where they dined. They 
 were now going back into Spain, having obtained their 
 liberty from Cromwell. An example of human vicissitude ! 
 
 14th. To London, where I found Mrs. Gary ; next day, 
 came Mr. Mordaunt (since Viscount Mordaunt), younger 
 son to the Countess of Peterborough, to see his mistress, 
 bringing with him two of my Lord of Dover's daughters : 
 so, after dinner, they all departed. 
 
 5th March. Dr. Rand, a learned physician, dedicated to 
 me his version of Gassendi's Vita Peiriskii. 
 
 25th. Dr. Taylor showed me his MS. of Cases of Con- 
 science, or Ductor dubitantium, now fitted for the Press. 
 
 The Protector, Oliver, now affecting kingship, is petitioned 
 to take the title on him by all his new-made sycophant 
 lords, &c. ; but dares not, for fear of the fanatics, not 
 thoroughly purged out of his rebel army. 
 
 21st April. Came Sir Thomas Hanmer, of Hanmer, in 
 Wales, to see me. I then waited on my Lord Hatton, 
 with whom I dined : at my return, I stepped into Bedlam, 
 where I saw several poor miserable creatures in chains ; 
 one of them was mad with making verses. I also visited 
 the Charter-house, formerly belonging to the Carthusians, 
 now an old neat fresh solitary college for decayed gentle- 
 men. It has a grove, bowling-green, garden, chapel, and 
 a hall where they eat in common. I likewise saw Christ- 
 church and Hospital, a very goodly Gothic building ; the 
 hall, school, and lodgings in great order for bringing up 
 many hundreds of poor children of both sexes; it is an 
 exemplary charity. There is a large picture at one end of 
 the hall, representing the governors, founders, and the 
 institution. 
 
 25th. I had a dangerous fall out of the coach in Covent 
 Garden, going to my brother's, but without harm; the 
 Lord be praised !
 
 320 DIARY OP [GREENWICH, 
 
 1st May. Divers soldiers were quartered at my house; but 
 I thank God went away the next day towards Flanders. 
 
 5th. I went with my cousin, George Tuke, to see Bay- 
 nard, in Surrey, a house of my brother Richard's, which he 
 would have hired. This is a very fair noble residence, built 
 in a park, and having one of the goodliest avenues of oaks 
 up to it that ever I saw; there is a pond* of 60 acres 
 near it ; the windows of the chief rooms are of very fine 
 painted glass. The situation is excessively dirty and 
 melancholy-t 
 
 15th. Laurence, President of Oliver's Council, and some 
 other of his Court-Lords, came in the afternoon to see my 
 garden and plantations. 
 
 7th June. My fourth son was born, christened George, 
 (after my grandfather) ; Dr. Jeremy Taylor officiating in 
 the drawing-room. 
 
 18th. At Greenwich, I saw a sort of cat J brought from 
 the East Indies, shaped and snouted much like the Egyp- 
 tian racoon, in the body like a monkey, and so footed ; the 
 ears and tail like a cat, only the tail much longer, and the 
 skin variously ringed with black and white ; with the tail 
 it wound up its body like a serpent, and so got up into 
 trees, and with it would wrap its whole body round. Its 
 hair was woolly like a lamb ; it was exceedingly nimble, 
 gentle, and purred as does the cat. 
 
 16th July. On Dr. Jeremy Taylor's recommendation, I 
 went to Eltham, to help one Moody, a young man, to that 
 living, by my interest with the patron. 
 
 August 6th. I went to see Colonel Blount, who showed 
 me the application of the way-wiser to a coach, exactly 
 measuring the miles, and showing them by an index as we 
 went on. It had three circles, one pointing to the number 
 of rods, another to the miles, by 10 to 1000, with all the 
 subdivisions of quarters ; very pretty and useful. 
 
 10th. Our vicar, from John xviii. 36, declaimed against 
 
 * This pond belongs to Vachery in Cranley. 
 
 f It is in the lower part of the parish of Ewhurst, in Surrey, adjoining to 
 Rudgwick, in Sussex, in a deep clay soil. It was formerly the seat of Sir 
 Edward Bray, and afterwards belonged to the Earl of Onslow, who carried the 
 painted glass to his seat at Clandon. 
 
 J This was probably the animal called a Mocock (maucauco), well known 
 at present.
 
 1S7.] JOHN EVELYN. 321 
 
 the folly of a sort of enthusiasts and desperate zealots, 
 called the Fifth-Monarchy-Men, pretending to set up the 
 kingdom of Christ with the sword. To this pass was 
 this age arrived when we had no King in Israel. 
 
 21st. Fell a most prodigious rain in London, and the 
 year was very sickly in the country. 
 
 1st September. I visited Sir Edmund Bowyer, at his 
 melancholy seat at Camberwell. He has a very pretty 
 grove of oaks, and hedges of yew in his garden, and a 
 handsome row of tall elms before his court. 
 
 15th. Going to London with some company, we stept 
 in to see a famous rope-dancer, called the Turk. * I saw 
 even to astonishment the agility with which he performed ; 
 he walked barefooted, taking hold by his toes only of a 
 rope almost perpendicular, and without so much as touch- 
 ing it with his hands; he danced blindfold on the high 
 rope, and with a boy of twelve years old tied to one of his 
 feet about twenty feet beneath him, dangling as he danced, 
 yet he moved as nimbly as if it had been but a feather. 
 Lastly, he stood on his head, on the top of a very high 
 mast, danced on a small rope that was very slack, and 
 finally flew down the perpendicular, on his breast, his 
 head foremost, his legs and arms extended, with divers 
 other activities. I saw the hairy woman, f twenty years 
 old, whom I had before seen when a child. She was born 
 at Augsburg, in Germany. Her very eye-brows were 
 combed upwards, and all her forehead as thick and even 
 as grows on any woman's head, neatly dressed; a very 
 long lock of hair out of each ear; she had also a most 
 prolix beard, and mustachios, with long locks growing on 
 the middle of her nose, like an Iceland dog exactly, the 
 colour of a bright brown, fine as well-dressed flax. She 
 was now married, and told me she had one child that was 
 not hairy, nor were any of her parents, or relations. She 
 was very well shaped, and played well on the harpsichord. 
 
 17th. To see Sir Robert Needham, at Lambeth, a 
 relation of mine ; and thence to John Tradescant's museum, 
 
 * Mr. Evelyn again mentions this person in his Numismata, under the 
 name of the Funamble Turk. 
 
 f- Barbara Vanbeck. There are two portraits of her, one a line engraving, 
 the other in mezzotinto, described by Mr. Granger in his Biography. There 
 is also another representation of her in some German Book of Natural 
 History. 
 
 VOL. I. Y
 
 222 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 in which the chiefest rarities were, in my opinion, the 
 ancient Roman, Indian, and other nations' armour, shields, 
 and weapons ; some habits of curiously-coloured and 
 wrought feathers, one from the phenix wing, as tradition 
 goes. Other innumerable things there were, printed in 
 his catalogue by Mr. Ashmole, to whom after the death of 
 the widow they are bequeathed, and by him designed as a 
 gift to Oxford.* 
 
 19th October. I went to see divers gardens about Lon- 
 don : returning, I saw at Dr. Joyliffe's two Virginian 
 rattle-snakes alive, exceeding a yard in length, small heads, 
 slender tails, but in the middle nearly the size of my leg ; 
 when vexed, swiftly vibrating and shaking their tails, as 
 loud as a child's rattle : this, by the collision of certain 
 gristly skins curiously jointed, yet loose, and transparent 
 as parchment, by which they give warning : a providential 
 caution for other creatures to avoid them. The Doctor 
 tried their biting on rats and mice, which they immediately 
 killed: but their vigour must needs be much exhausted 
 here, in another climate, and kept only in a barrel of 
 bran. 
 
 22nd. To town, to visit the Holland Ambassador, with 
 whom I had now contracted much friendly correspondence, 
 useful to the intelligence I constantly gave his Majesty 
 abroad. 
 
 26th November. I went to London, to a court of the 
 East India Company on its new union, in Merchant- 
 Taylors' Hall, where was much disorder by reason of the 
 Anabaptists, who would have the adventurers obliged only 
 by an engagement, without swearing, that they still might 
 pursue their private trade ; but it was carried against 
 them. Wednesday was fixed on for a General Court for 
 election of officers, after a sermon and prayers for good 
 success. The Stock resolved on was 800,000/. 
 
 27th. I took the oath at the East India House, sub- 
 scribing 500/. 
 
 2nd December. Dr. Eaynolds (since Bishop of Norwich) 
 preached before the company at St. Andrew Under-shaft, 
 on Nehemiah xiii. 31, showing, by the example of Nehe- 
 miah, all the perfections of a trusty person in public affairs, 
 
 * Where they now are in the Ashmolean Museum. See hereafter, under 
 July, 1678.
 
 1657.] JOHN EVELYN. 323 
 
 with many good precepts apposite to the occasion, ending 
 with a prayer for God's blessing on the company and the 
 undertaking. 
 
 3rd. Mr. Gunning preached on John iii. 3, against the 
 Anabaptists, showing the effect and necessity of the sacra- 
 ment of baptism. This sect was now wonderfully spread. 
 
 25th. I went to- London with my wife, to celebrate 
 Christmas-day, Mr. Gunning preaching in Exeter chapel, 
 on Michah vii. 2. Sermon ended, as he was giving us 
 the Holy Sacrament, the chapel was surrounded with 
 soldiers, and all the communicants and assembly surprised 
 and kept prisoners by them, some in the house, others 
 carried away. It fell to my share to be confined to a 
 room in the house, where yet I was permitted to dine with 
 the master of it, the Countess of Dorset, Lady Hatton, 
 and some others of quality who invited me. In the after- 
 noon, came Colonel Whalley, Goffe, and others, from 
 Whitehall, to examine us one by one; some they com- 
 mitted to the Marshal, some to prison. "When I came 
 before them, they took my name and abode, examined me 
 why, contrary to the ordinance made, that none should 
 any longer observe the superstitious time of the Nativity 
 (so esteemed by them), I durst offend, and particularly be 
 at Common Prayers, which they told me was but the mass 
 in English, and particularly pray for Charles Stuart ; for 
 which we had no Scripture. I told them we did not pray 
 for Charles Stuart, but for all Christian Kings, Princes, 
 and Governors. They replied, in so doing we prayed for 
 the King of Spain, too, who was their enemy and a Papist, 
 with other frivolous and ensnaring questions, and much 
 threatening ; and, finding no colour to detain me, they 
 dismissed me with much pity of my ignorance. These 
 were men of high flight and above ordinances, and spake 
 spiteful things of our Lord's Nativity. As we went up to 
 receive the Sacrament, the miscreants held their muskets 
 against us, as if they would have shot us at the altar, but 
 yet suffering us to finish the office of Communion, as per- 
 haps not having instructions what to do, in case they 
 found us in that action. So I got home late the next day ; 
 blessed be God ! 
 
 1657-8. 27th January. After six fits of a quartan ague, 
 with which it pleased God to visit him, died my dear son, 
 
 Y 2 
 
 I tfW
 
 324 DIARY OF [SAYES-COURT, 
 
 Bichard, to our inexpressible grief and affliction, five years 
 and three days old only, but at that tender age a prodigy 
 for wit and understanding; for beauty of body, a very 
 angel; for endowment of mind, of incredible and rare 
 hopes. To give only a little taste of them, and thereby 
 glory to God, who " out of the mouths of babes and infants 
 does sometimes perfect his praises," he had learned all his 
 catechism ; at two years and a half old, he could perfectly 
 read any of the English, Latin, French, or Gothic letters, 
 pronouncing the three first languages exactly. He had, 
 before the fifth year, or in that year, not only skill to read 
 most written hands, but to decline all the nouns, conjugate 
 the verbs regular, and most of the irregular ; learned out 
 " Puerilis," got by heart almost the entire vocabulary of 
 Latin and French primitives and words, could make con- 
 gruous syntax, turn English into Latin, and vice versa, 
 construe and prove what he read, and did the government 
 and use of relatives, verbs, substantives, ellipses, and many 
 figures and tropes, and made a considerable progress in 
 Comenius's Janua; began himself to write legibly, and 
 had a strong passion for Greek. The number of verses 
 he could recite was prodigious, and what he remembered 
 of the parts of plays, which he would also act ; and, when 
 seeing a Plautus in one's hand, he asked what book it was, 
 and, being told it was comedy, and too difficult for him, 
 he wept for sorrow. Strange was his apt and ingenious 
 application of fables and morals ; for he had read ^Esop ; 
 he had a wonderful disposition to mathematics, having by 
 heart divers propositions of Euclid that were read to him 
 in play, and he would make lines and demonstrate them. 
 AS to his piety, astonishing were his applications of Scrip- 
 ture upon occasion, and his sense of God ; he had learned 
 all his Catechism early, and understood the historical part 
 of the Bible and New Testament to a wonder, how Christ 
 came to redeem mankind, and how, comprehending these 
 necessaries himself, his godfathers were discharged of their 
 promise. 
 
 These and the like illuminations, far exceeding his age 
 and experience, considering the prettiness of his address 
 and behaviour, cannot but leave impressions in me at the 
 memory of him. When one told him how many days a 
 Quaker had fasted, he replied that was no wonder ; for
 
 1658.] JOHN EVELYN. 325 
 
 Christ had said that man should not live by bread alone, 
 but by the Word of God. He would of himself select the 
 most pathetic psalms, and chapters out of Job, to read to 
 his maid during his sickness, telling her, when she pitied 
 him, that all God's children must suffer affliction. He 
 declaimed against the vanities of the world, before he had 
 seen any. Often he would desire those who came to see 
 him to pray by him, and a year before he fell sick, to kneel 
 and pray with him alone in some corner. How thankfully 
 would he receive admonition ! how soon be reconciled ! 
 how indifferent, yet continually cheerful ! He would 
 give grave advice to his brother, John, bear with his im- 
 pertinences, and say he was but a child. If he heard of 
 or saw any new thing, he was unquiet till he was told how 
 it was made ; he brought to us all such difficulties as he 
 found in books, to be expounded. He had learned by 
 heart divers sentences in Latin and Greek which, on oc- 
 casion, he would produce even to wonder. He was all life, 
 all prettiness, far from morose, sullen, or childish in any 
 thing he said or did. The last time he had been at church, 
 (which was at Greenwich), I asked him, according to cus- 
 tom, what he remembered of the sermon; two good 
 things, Father, said he, bonum gratice and bonum gloria, 
 with a just account of what the preacher said. 
 
 The day before he died, he called to me ; and, in a more 
 serious manner than usual, told me that for all I loved him 
 so dearly, I should give my house, land, and all my fine 
 things, to his brother Jack, he should have none of them; 
 and, next morning, when he found himself ill, and that I 
 persuaded him to keep his hands in bed, he demanded 
 whether he might pray to God with his hands unjoined; 
 and a little after, whilst in great agony, whether he should 
 not offend God by using his holy name so often calling for 
 ease. What shall I say of his frequent pathetical ejacula- 
 tions uttered of himself: "Sweet Jesus save me, deliver 
 me, pardon my sins, let thine angels receive me ! " So 
 early knowledge, so much piety and perfection ! But 
 thus God, having dressed up a saint fit for himself, would 
 not longer permit him with us, unworthy of the future 
 fruits of this incomparable hopeful blossom. Such a child 
 I never saw : for such a child I bless God, in whose bosom 
 he is ! May I and mine become as this little child, who
 
 DIARY OF [SAYES-COURT, 
 
 now follows the child Jesus that Lamb of God in a white 
 robe, whithersoever he goes; even so, Lord Jesus, fiat 
 voluntas tua I Thou gavest him to us, Thou hast taken 
 him from us, blessed be the name of the Lord ! That I 
 had any thing acceptable to Thee was from thy grace 
 alone, since from me he had nothing but sin, but that 
 Thou hast pardoned ! blessed be my God for ever, Amen! 
 
 In my opinion, he was suffocated by the women and 
 maids that tended him, and covered him too hot with 
 blankets as he lay in a cradle, near an excessive hot fire in 
 a close room. I suffered him to be opened, when they 
 found that he was what is vulgarly called liver-grown. I 
 caused his body to be coffined in lead, and reposited on 
 the 30th at eight o'clock that night in the church at Dept- 
 ford, accompanied with divers of my relations and neigh- 
 bours, among whom I distributed rings with this motto : 
 Dominus abstulit ; intending, God willing, to have him 
 transported with my own body to be interred in our dor- 
 mitory in Wotton Church, in my dear native county of 
 Surrey, and to lay my bones and mingle my dust with my 
 fathers, if God be gracious to me, and make me as fit for 
 Him as this blessed child was. The Lord Jesus sanctify 
 this and all other my afflictions, Amen !* 
 
 Here ends the joy of my life, and for which I go even 
 mourning to the grave. 
 
 15th February. The afflicting hand of God being still 
 upon us, it pleased Him also to take away from us this 
 morning my youngest Son, George, now seven weeks lan- 
 guishing at nurse, breeding teeth, and ending in a dropsy. 
 God's holy will be done! He was buried in Deptford 
 church, the 17th following. 
 
 25th. Came Dr. Jeremy Taylor, and my brothers, with 
 other friends, to visit and condole with us. 
 
 7th March. To London, to hear Dr. Taylor in a private 
 house on Luke xiii. 23, 24. After the sermon, followed 
 the blessed Communion, of which I participated. In the 
 afternoon, Dr. Gunning, at Exeter House, expounding part 
 of the Creed. 
 
 In the Preface to his Translation of the "Golden Book of St. Chrysostom, 
 concerning the Education of Children,' ' is likewise given a very interesting 
 account of this amiable and promising child. See Mr. Evelyn's " Miscella- 
 neous Writings," 4to. 1825,*p. 105.
 
 1658.] JOHN EVELYN. 327 
 
 This had been the severest winter that any man alive 
 had known in England. The crows' feet were frozen to 
 their prey. Islands of ice inclosed both fish and fowl 
 frozen, and some persons in their boats. 
 
 15th May, was a public fast, to avert an epidemical 
 sickness, very mortal this spring. 
 
 20th. I went to see a coach-race in Hyde Park, and col- 
 lationed in Spring Garden. 
 
 23rd. Dr. Manton, the famous Presbyterian, preached 
 at Covent Garden, on Matthew vi. 10, showing what the 
 kingdom of God was, how pray for it, &c. 
 
 There was now a collection for persecuted and seques- 
 tered Ministers of the Church of England, whereof divers 
 are in prison. A sad day ! The Church now in dens and 
 caves of the earth. 
 
 31st. I went to visit my Lady Peterborough, whose son, 
 Mr. Mordaunt, prisoner in the Tower, was now on his 
 trial, and acquitted but by one voice; but that holy 
 martyr, Dr. Hewer, was condemned to die, without law, 
 jury, or justice, but by a mock Council of State, as they 
 called it. A dangerous, treacherous time ! 
 
 2nd June. An extraordinary storm of hail and rain, 
 the season as cold as winter, the wind northerly near six 
 months. 
 
 3rd. A large whale was taken betwixt my land abutting 
 on the Thames and Greenwich, which drew an infinite 
 concourse to see it, by water, horse, coach, and on foot, 
 from London, and all parts. It appeared first below Green- 
 wich at low water, for at high water it would have destroyed 
 all the boats, but lying now in shallow water encompassed 
 with boats, after a long conflict, it was killed with a harp- 
 ing iron, struck in the head, out of which spouted blood 
 and water by two tunnels; and, after a horrid groan, it ran 
 quite on shore, and died. Its length was fifty-eight feet, 
 height sixteen; black- skinned, like coach-leather, very 
 small eyes, great tail, only two small fins, a peaked snout, 
 and a mouth so wide, that divers men might have stood 
 upright in it; no teeth, but sucked the slime only as 
 through a grate of that bone which we call whale-bone ; 
 the throat yet so narrow, as would not have admitted the 
 least of fishes. The extremes of the cetaceous bones hang 
 downwards from the upper jaw, and are hairy towards the
 
 328 DIARY OF [GODSTONE, 
 
 ends and bottom within side : all of it prodigious ; but in 
 nothing more wonderful than that an animal of so great 
 a bulk should be nourished only by slime through those 
 grates. 
 
 8th. That excellent preacher and holy man, Dr. Hewer, 
 was martyred for having intelligence with his Majesty,* 
 through the Lord Marquis of Ormond. 
 
 9th. I went to see the Earl of Northumberland's pic- 
 tures, whereof that of the Venetian Senators f was one of 
 the best of Titian's, and another of Andrea del Sarto, 
 viz. a Madonna, Christ, St. John, and an Old Woman; a 
 St. Catharine of Da Vinci, with divers portraits of Van- 
 dyck; a Nativity of Georgioni; the last of our blessed 
 Kings (Charles I.), and the Duke of York, by Lely, a 
 Rosary, by the famous Jesuits of Brussels, and several 
 more. This was in Suffolk House : the new front towards 
 the gardens is tolerable, were it not drowned by a too- 
 massy and clumsy pair of stairs of stone, without any neat 
 invention. 
 
 10th. I went to see the Medical Garden, at Westminster, 
 well stored with plants, under Morgan, a very skilful 
 botanist. 
 
 26th. To Eltham, to visit honest Mr. Owen. 
 
 3rd July. To London, and dined with Mr. Henshaw, 
 Mr. Dorell, and Mr. Ashmole, founder of the Oxford 
 repository of rarities, with divers doctors of physic and 
 virtuosos. 
 
 15th. Came to see my Lord Kilmurry and Lady, Sir 
 Robert Needham, Mr. Offley, and two daughters of my 
 Lord Willoughby, of Parham. 
 
 3rd August. Went to Sir John Evelyn, at Godstone. 
 The place is excellent, but might be improved by turning 
 some offices of the house, and removing the garden. Th& 
 house being a noble fabric, though not comparable to 
 what was first built by my uncle, who was master of all 
 the powder-mills. 
 
 5th. We went to Squirriesf to visit my Cousin Leech, 
 
 He was Minister of St. Gregory's, London, and was beheaded on Tower<- 
 Hill. 
 
 ) The Cornaro family, still one of the grand ornaments of Northumberland- 
 House. There is a fine print of it engraved by Baron. 
 
 J At Westerham, in Kent.
 
 1658.] JOHN EVELYN. 329 
 
 daughter to Sir John ; a pretty, finely wooded, well 
 watered seat, the stables good, the house old, but con- 
 venient. 6th. Returned to Wotton. 
 
 10th. I dined at Mr. Carew Raleigh's, at Horsley, son 
 to the famous Sir Walter. 
 
 14th. We went to Durdans [at Epsom] to a challenged 
 match at bowls for 10/., which we won. 
 
 18th, To Sir Ambrose Browne, at Betch worth Castle, in 
 that tempestuous wind which threw down my greatest 
 trees at Sayes Court, and did so much mischief all over 
 England. It continued the whole night ; and, till three in 
 the afternoon of the next day, in the south-west, and 
 destroyed all our winter fruit. 
 
 3rd September. Died that arch-rebel, Oliver Cromwell, 
 called Protector. 
 
 16th. Was published my " Translation of St. Chrysos- 
 tom on Education of Children," which I dedicated to both 
 my brothers, to comfort them on the loss of their children. 
 
 21st. My Lord Berkeley, of Berkeley Castle, invited 
 me to dinner. 
 
 26th. Mr. King preached at Ashted, on Proverbs xv. 
 24 j a Quaker would have disputed with him. In the 
 afternoon, we heard Dr. Racket (since Bishop of Litch- 
 field) at Cheam, where the family of the Lumleys lie buried. 
 
 27th. To Beddington, that ancient seat of the Carews, 
 a fine old hall, but a scambling house, famous for the first 
 orange-gardens in England, being now overgrown trees, 
 planted in the ground, and secured in winter with a 
 wooden tabernacle and stoves. This seat is rarely watered, 
 lying low, and environed with good pastures. The pome- 
 granates bear here. To the house is also added a fine 
 park. Thence, to Carshalton, excellently watered, and 
 capable of being made a most delicious seat, being on the 
 sweet downs, and a champain about it full planted with 
 walnut and cherry-trees, which afford a considerable rent. 
 
 Riding over these downs, and discoursing with the 
 shepherds, I found that digging about the bottom near 
 Sir Christopher Buckle's,* near Banstead, divers medals 
 
 This house is not far from the course of the Roman road from Chichester, 
 through Sussex, passing through Ockley, and Dorking church-yard. 
 Considerable remains of a Roman building have been found on Walton-heath, 
 south of this house.
 
 330 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 have been found, both copper and silver, with foundations 
 of houses, urns, &c. Here, indeed, anciently stood a city 
 of the Romans. See Antonine's Itinerary. 
 
 29th. I returned home, after ten weeks' absence. 
 
 2nd October. I went to London, to receive the Holy 
 Sacrament. 
 
 On the 3rd, Dr. Wild preached in a private place 
 on Isaiah i. 4, showing the parallel betwixt the sins 
 of Israel and those of England. In the afternoon, 
 Mr. Hall (son to Joseph, Bishop of Norwich) on 1 Cor. 
 vi. 2, of the dignity of the Saints ; a most excellent dis- 
 course. 
 
 4th. I dined with the Holland Ambassador, at Derby 
 House : returning, I diverted to see a very white raven, 
 bred in Cumberland ; also a porcupine, of that kind that 
 shoots its quills, of which see Claudian ; it was headed like 
 a rat, the fore feet like a badger, the hind feet like a 
 bear. 
 
 19th. I was summoned to London, by the Commissioners 
 for new buildings; afterwards, to the Commission of Sewers; 
 but because there was an oath to be taken of fidelity to the 
 Government as now constituted without a King, I got to 
 be excused, and returned home. 
 
 22nd. Saw the superb funeral of the Protector. He 
 was carried from Somerset-House in a velvet bed of state, 
 drawn by six horses, housed with the same ; the pall held 
 by his new Lords ; Oliver lying in effigy, in royal robes, 
 and crowned with a crown, sceptre, and globe, like a king. 
 The pendants and guidons were carried by the officers of 
 the army ; the Imperial banners, achievements, &c. by the 
 heralds in their coats ; a rich caparisoned horse, embroi- 
 dered all over with gold ; a knight of honour, armed cap- 
 a-pie, and, after all, his guards, soldiers, and innumerable 
 mourners. In this equipage, they proceeded to Westmin- 
 ster : but it was the joyfullest funeral I ever saw ; for 
 there were none that cried but dogs, which the soldiers 
 hooted away with a barbarous noise, drinking and taking 
 tobacco in the streets as they went. 
 
 I returned not home till the 17th November. 
 
 I was summoned again to London by the Commissioners 
 for new foundations to be erected within such a distance 
 of London.
 
 1659.] JOHN EVELYN. 331 
 
 6th December. Now was published my " French Gar- 
 dener/'* the first and best of the kind that introduced 
 the use of the Olitory garden to any purpose. 
 
 23rd. I went with my wife to keep Christmas at my 
 cousin, George Tuke's, at dressing Temple, in Essex. Lay 
 that night at Brentwood. 
 
 25th. Here was no public service, but what we privately 
 used. I blessed God for His mercies the year past ; and, 
 1st January, begged a continuance of them. Thus, for 
 three Sundays, by reason of the incumbent's death, here 
 was neither praying nor preaching, though there was a 
 chapel in the house. 
 
 1658-9. 17th January. Our old vicar preached, taking 
 leave of the parish in a pathetical speech, to go to a living 
 in the City. 
 
 24th March. I went to London, to speak to the patron, 
 Alderman Guttler, about presenting a fit pastor for our 
 destitute parish-church. 
 
 5th April. Came the Earl of Northampton and the 
 famous painter, Mr. Wright, f to visit me. 
 
 10th. One Mr. Littler, being now presented to the 
 living of our parish, preached on John vi. 55, a sermon 
 preparatory to the Holy Sacrament. 
 
 25th. A wonderful and sudden change in the face of 
 the public ; the new Protector, Richard, slighted ; several 
 pretenders and parties strive for the government : all 
 anarchy and confusion ; Lord have mercy on us ! 
 
 5th May. I went to visit my brother in London; and, 
 next day, to see a new opera, J after the Italian way, in 
 recitative music and scenes, much inferior to the Italian 
 composure and magnificence ; but it was prodigious that 
 in a time of such public consternation such a vanity should 
 be kept up, or permitted. I, being engaged with company, 
 could not decently resist the going to see it, though my 
 heart smote me for it. 
 
 * The " Epistle Dedicatory to the French Gardener" is reprinted in " Mis- 
 cellaneous Writings," 4to., 1 825, p. 97. 
 
 f- Mr. Michael Wright, who painted the twelve Judges in Guildhall, after 
 the great fire. There is a long account of him in " Walpole's Anecdotes of 
 Painting." See more of him under October 1662. 
 
 J Probably, Sir William Davenant's Opera, in which the cruelty of the Spa- 
 niards in Peru was expressed by instrumental and vocal music, and by art of 
 perspective in scenes, 4to, 1658. See the u Biographia Dramatica."
 
 332 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 7th. Came the Ambassador of Holland and his Lady to 
 visit me, and staid the whole afternoon. 
 
 ]2th. I returned the visit, discoursing much of the 
 revolutions, &c. 
 
 19th. Came to dine with me my Lord Galloway and 
 his son, a Scotch Lord and learned ; also my brother and 
 his Lady, Lord Berkeley and his Lady, Mrs. Shirley, and 
 the famous singer, Mrs. Knight,* and other friends. 
 
 23rd. I went to B/ookwood,f and dined with Sir William 
 Hicks, where was a great feast and much company. It is 
 a melancholy old house, environed with trees and rooks. 
 
 26th. Came to see me my Lord George Berkeley, Sir 
 William Ducie, and Sir George Pott's son of Norfolk. 
 
 29th. The nation was now in extreme confusion and 
 unsettled, between the Armies and the Sectaries, the poor 
 Church of England breathing as it were her last ; so sad a 
 face of things had overspread us. 
 
 7th June. To London, to take leave of my brother, and 
 see the foundations now laying for a long street and build- 
 ings in Hatton-Garden, designed for a little town, lately 
 an ample garden. 
 
 1st September. I communicated to Mr. Kobert Boyle, 
 son to the Earl of Cork, my proposal for erecting a philo- 
 sophic and mathematic college. 
 
 15th. Came to see me Mr. Brereton, a very learned 
 gentleman, son to my Lord Brereton, with his and divers 
 other ladies. Also, Henry Howard of Norfolk, since Duke 
 of Norfolk. 
 
 30th. I went to visit Sir William Ducie and Colonel 
 Blount, where I met Sir Henry Blount, the famous tra- 
 veller and water-drinker. 
 
 10th October. I came with my wife and family to 
 
 * Afterwards, one of Charles the Second's mistresses. 
 
 ) This was a house in Lay ton, in Essex, better known by the name of Rock- 
 holt, or Ruckholt, built by Mr. Parvish, a former owner of the estate ; but a 
 new house was afterwards erected near the site of the former by the family 
 of Hicks, of whom William was created a baronet, in 1619. King Charles II. 
 was entertained here one day when he was hunting, and knighted William, 
 the son of the Baronet. Morant, in his " History of Essex," vol. I., p. 24, 
 printed 1768, speaks of the new house as baring been a beautiful one, pulled 
 down some years ago. Previously to this, it had been a place of public 
 entertainment in a morning, at which visitors were regaled with tea and 
 music, which is not mentioned by Morant.
 
 1659.] JOHN EVELYN. 333 
 
 London : took lodgings at the Three Feathers, in Russell 
 Street, Covent Garden, for the winter, my son being very 
 unwell. 
 
 llth. Came to visit me Mr. William Coventry (since 
 Secretary to the Duke), son to the Lord Keeper, a wise 
 and witty gentleman. 
 
 The Army now turned out the Parliament. We had 
 now no government in the nation ; all in confusion ; no 
 magistrate, either owned or pretended, but the soldiers, 
 and they not agreed. God Almighty have mercy on, and 
 settle us ! 
 
 17th. I visited Mr. Howard, at Arundel-house, who 
 gave me a fair onyx set in gold, and showed me his design 
 of a palace there. 
 
 21st. A private Fast was kept by the Church of Eng- 
 land Protestants in town, to beg of God the removal of 
 His judgments, with devout prayers for His mercy to our 
 calamitous Church. 
 
 7th November. Was published my bold " Apology for 
 the King" * in this time of danger, when it was capital 
 to speak or write in favour of him. It was twice printed; 
 so universally it took. 
 
 9th. We observed our solemn Fast for the calamity of 
 our Church. 
 
 12th. I went to see the several drugs for the confection 
 of treacle, dioscordium, and other electuaries, which an 
 ingenious apothecary had not only prepared and ranged 
 on a large and very long table, but covered every ingre- 
 dient with a sheet of paper, on which was very lively 
 painted the thing in miniature, well to the life, were it 
 plant, flower, animal, or other exotic drug. 
 
 15th. Dined with the Dutch Ambassador. He did in 
 a manner acknowledge that his nation mind only their 
 own profit, do nothing out of gratitude, but collaterally as 
 it relates to their gain, or security ; and therefore the Eng- 
 lish were to look for nothing of assistance to the banished 
 King. This was to me no very grateful discourse, though 
 an ingenuous confession. 
 
 18th. Mr. Gunning celebrated the wonted Fast, and 
 preached on Phil. ii. 12, 13. 
 
 24th. Sir John Evelyn [of Godstone] invited us to the 
 
 * Reprinted in Evelyn's "Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1 825, pp. 1 691 92.
 
 334 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 forty-first wedding-day feast, where was much company of 
 friends. 
 
 26th. I was introduced into the acquaintance of divers 
 learned and worthy persons, Sir John Marsham, Mr. 
 Dugdale, Mr. Stanley, and others. 
 
 9th December. I supped with Mr. Gunning, it being 
 our fast-day, Dr. Fearne, Mr. Thrisco, Mr. Chamberlain, 
 Dr. Henchman, Dr. Wild,* and other devout and learned 
 divines, firm confessors, and excellent persons. Note: 
 Most of them since made bishops. 
 
 10th. I treated privately with Colonel Morley,t then 
 Lieutenant of the Tower, and in great trust and power, 
 concerning delivering it to the King, and the bringing 
 of him in, to the great hazard of my Hfe, but the Colonel 
 had been my school-fellow, and I knew would not 
 betray me. 
 
 12th. I spent in public concerns for his Majesty, pur- 
 suing the point to bring over Colonel Morley, and his bro- 
 ther-in-law, Fay, Governor of Portsmouth. 
 
 18th. Preached that famous divine, Dr. Sanderson, 
 (since Bishop of Lincoln), now eighty years old, on 
 Jer. xxx. 13, concerning the evil of forsaking God. 
 
 29th. Came my Lord Count Arundel of Wardour, to 
 visit me. I went also to see my Lord Viscount Montague. 
 
 31st. Settling my domestic affairs in order, blessed God 
 for his infinite mercies and preservations the past year. 
 
 ANNUS MIRABILIS, 1659-60. January 1. Begging God's 
 blessings for the following year, I went to Exeter Chapel, 
 when Mr. Gunning began the year on Galatians iv. 8 7, 
 showing the love of Christ in shedding his blood so 
 early for us. 
 
 12th. Wrote to Colonel Morley again to declare for his 
 Majesty. 
 
 22nd. I went this afternoon to visit Colonel Morley. 
 After dinner, I discoursed with him; but he was very 
 jealous, and would not believe that Monk came in to do 
 
 * See p. 316. He was of St. John's College, Oxford, Chaplain to Arch- 
 bishop Laud, Vicar of St. Giles's, Reading. Adhering to the King, he 
 preached before the Parliament, at Oxford. After the Restoration, he was 
 made Bishop of Londonderry, in Ireland. He had kept up a religious meet- 
 ing for the Royalists, in Fleet Street. Wood's Athenee, vol. II., p. 251. 
 
 f* See the detailed account of Mr. Evelyn's communications with Colonel 
 Morley, in the Illustrations hereafter, No. II.
 
 1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 335 
 
 the King any service ; I told him he might do it without 
 him, and have all the honour. He was still doubtful, and 
 would resolve on nothing yet, so I took leave.* 
 
 3rd February. Kept the Fast. General Monk came 
 now to London out of Scotland ; but no man knew what 
 he would do, or declare, yet he was met on his way by the 
 gentlemen of all the counties which he passed, with peti- 
 tions that he would recall the old long interrupted Parlia- 
 ment, and settle the nation in some order, being at this 
 time in most prodigious confusion, and under no govern- 
 ment, everybody expecting what would be next, and what 
 he would do. 
 
 10th. Now were the gates of the city broken down by 
 General Monk ; which exceedingly exasperated the city, 
 the soldiers marching up and down as triumphing over it, 
 and all the old army of the fanatics put out of their posts, 
 and sent out of town. 
 
 llth. A signal day. Monk, perceiving how infamous 
 and wretched a pack of knaves would have still usurped 
 the supreme power, and having intelligence that they 
 intended to take away his commission, repenting of what 
 he had done to the city, and where he and his forces were 
 quartered, marches to Whitehall, dissipates that nest of 
 robbers, and convenes the old Parliament, the Rump 
 Parliament (so called as retaining some few rotten mem- 
 bers of the other) being dissolved; and for joy whereof 
 were many thousand of rumps roasted publicly in the 
 streets at the bonfires this night, f with ringing of bells, 
 and universal jubilee. This was the first good omen. 
 
 From 17th February to 5th April, I was detained in bed 
 with a kind of double tertian, the cruel effects of the 
 spleen and other distempers, in that extremity that my 
 physicians, Drs. Wetherborn, Needham, and Claude, were 
 in great doubt of my recovery; but it pleased God to 
 deliver me out of this affliction, for which I render him 
 hearty thanks ; going to church the 8th, and receiving the 
 blessed Eucharist. 
 
 During this sickness, came divers of my relations and 
 friends to visit me, and it retarded my going into the 
 country longer than I intended; however, I writ and 
 
 See Note in the preceding page. 
 
 f- Pamphlets with cuts representing this, were printed at the time.
 
 336 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 printed a letter, in defence of his Majesty,* against a 
 wicked forged Paper, pretended to be sent from Brussels 
 to defame his Majesty's person and virtues, and render 
 him odious, now when everybody was in hope and expec- 
 tation of the General and Parliament recalling him, and 
 establishing the Government on its ancient and right 
 basis. The doing this towards the decline of my sickness, 
 and sitting up long in my bed, had caused a small relapse, 
 out of which it yet pleased God also to free me, so as by 
 the 14th I was able to go into the country, which I did to 
 my sweet and native air at Wotton. 
 
 3rd May. Came the most happy tidings of his Majesty's 
 gracious declaration and applications to the Parliament, 
 General, and People, and their dutiful acceptance and 
 acknowledgment, after a most bloody and unreasonable 
 rebellion of near twenty years. Praised be for ever the 
 Lord of Heaven, who only doeth wondrous things, because 
 His mercy endureth for ever ! 
 
 8th. This day was his Majesty proclaimed in Lon- 
 don, &c. 
 
 9th. I was desired and designed to accompany my 
 Lord Berkeley with the public Address of the Parliament, 
 General, &c. to the King, and invite him to come over 
 and assume his Kingly Government, he being now at 
 Breda ; but I was yet so weak, I could not make that 
 journey by sea, which was not a little to my detriment, so 
 I went to London to excuse myself, returning the 10th, 
 having yet received a gracious message from his Majesty 
 by Major Scot and Colonel Tuke. 
 
 24th. Came to me Colonel Morley, about procuring his 
 pardon, now too late, seeing his error and neglect of the 
 counsel I gave him, by which, if he had taken it, he had 
 certainly done the great work with the same ease that 
 Monk did it, who was then in Scotland, and Morley in a 
 post to have done what he pleased, but his jealousy and 
 fear kept him from that blessing and honour. I addressed 
 him to Lord Mordaunt, then in great favour, for his par- 
 don, which he obtained at the cost of 1000/., as I heard. 
 O the sottish omission of this gentleman ! what did I not 
 
 * The title of it is, " The late News, or Message from Brussels, unmasked." 
 This, and the pamphlet which gave occasion for it, are reprinted in Evelyn's 
 Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, pp. 193204.
 
 1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 337 
 
 undergo of danger in this negociation, to have brought 
 him over to his Majesty's interest, when it was entirely in 
 his hands ! 
 
 29th. This day, his Majesty Charles the Second came to 
 London, after a sad and long exile and calamitous suffer- 
 ing both of the King and Church, being seventeen years. 
 This was also his birth-day, and with a triumph of above 
 20,000 horse and foot, brandishing their swords, and shout- 
 ing, with inexpressible joy; the ways strewed with flowers, 
 the bells ringing, the streets hung with tapestry, fountains 
 running with wine; the Mayor, Aldermen, and all the 
 Companies, in their liveries, chains of gold, and banners ; 
 Lords and Nobles, clad in cloth of silver, gold, and velvet ; 
 the windows and balconies, all set with ladies ; trumpets, 
 music, and myriads of people flocking, even so far as 
 from Rochester, so as they were seven hours in passing 
 the city, even from two in the afternoon till nine at night. 
 
 I stood in the Strand and beheld it, and blessed God. 
 And all this was done without one drop of blood shed, 
 and by that very army which rebelled against him ; but it 
 was the Lord's doing, for such a restoration was never 
 mentioned in any history, ancient or modern, since the 
 return of the Jews from the Babylonish captivity ; nor so 
 joyful a day and so bright ever seen in this nation, this 
 happening when to expect or effect it was past all human 
 policy. 
 
 4th June. I received letters of Sir Richard Browne's 
 landing at Dover, and also letters from the Queen, which 
 I was to deliver at Whitehall, not as yet presenting my- 
 self to his Majesty, by reason of the infinite concourse of" 
 people. The eagerness of men, women, and children, to 
 see his Majesty, and kiss his hands, was so great, that he 
 had scarce leisure to eat for some days, coming as they 
 did from all parts of the nation ; and the King^ being as 
 willing to give them that satisfaction, would have none 
 kept out, but gave free access to all sorts of people. 
 
 Addressing myself to the Duke, I was carried to his- 
 Majesty, when very few noblemen were with him, and 
 kissed his hands, being very graciously received. I then 
 returned home, to meet Sir Richard Browne, who came 
 not till the 8th, after nineteen years exile, during all which 
 time he kept up in his chapel the liturgy and offices of the 
 
 VOL. i. z
 
 338 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Church of England, to his no small honour, and in a time 
 when it was so low, and as many thought utterly lost, that 
 in various controversies both with Papists and Sectaries, 
 our divines used to argue for the visibility of the Church, 
 from his chapel and congregation. 
 
 I was all this week to and fro at Court, about business. 
 
 16th. The French, Italian, and Dutch Ministers, came 
 to make their address to his Majesty, one Monsieur Stoope 
 pronouncing the harangue with great eloquence. 
 
 18th. I proposed the embassy of Constantinople for 
 Mr. Henshaw ; but my Lord Winchelsea struck in.* 
 
 Goods that had been pillaged from Whitehall during the 
 Rebellion, were now daily brought in, and restored upon 
 proclamation ; as plate, hangings, pictures, &c. 
 
 21st. The Warwickshire gentlemen (as did all the shires 
 and chief towns in all the three nations) presented their 
 congratulatory Address. It was carried by my Lord 
 Northampton. 
 
 30th. The Sussex gentlemen presented their Address, 
 to which was my hand. I went with it, and kissed his 
 Majesty' s hand, who was pleased to own me more particu- 
 larly by calling me his old acquaintance, and speaking very 
 graciously to me. 
 
 3rd July. I went to Hyde-park, where was his Majesty, 
 and abundance of gallantry. 
 
 4th. I heard Sir Samuel Tuke harangue to the House 
 of Lords, in behalf of the Roman Catholics, and his ac- 
 count of the transaction at Colchester in murdering Lord 
 Capel, and the rest of those brave men that suffered in 
 cold blood, after articles of rendition. 
 
 5th. I saw his Majesty go with as much pomp and 
 splendour as any earthly prince could do to the great City 
 feast, the first they had invited him to since his return ; 
 but the exceeding rain which fell all that day much eclipsed 
 its lustres. This was at Guildhall, and there was also all 
 the Parliament-men, both Lords and Commons. The 
 streets were adorned with pageants, at immense cost. 
 
 6th. His Majesty began first to touch for the evil, 
 
 * It was on his return from this embassy that his Lordship, visiting Sicily, 
 was an eye-witness of the dreadful eruption of Mount Etna, in 1669, a short 
 account of which was afterwards published in a small pamphlet, with a cut by 
 Hollar, of the mountain, &c.
 
 1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 339 
 
 according to custom, thus : his Majesty sitting under his 
 state in the Banqueting-house, the chirurgeons cause the 
 sick to be brought, or led, up to the throne, where they 
 kneeling, the King strokes their faces, or cheeks, with both 
 his hands at once, at which instant a chaplain in his for- 
 malities says, " He put his hands upon them, and he 
 healed them." This is said to every one in particular. 
 When they have been all touched, they come up again in 
 the same order, and the other chaplain kneeling, and hav- 
 ing angel gold* strung on white ribbon 011 his arm, delivers 
 them one by one to his Majesty, who puts them about the 
 necks of the touched as they pass, whilst the first chaplain 
 repeats, " That is the true light who came into the world." 
 Then follows, an epistle (as at first a Gospel) with the 
 Liturgy, prayers for the sick, with some alteration; lastly, 
 the blessing; and then the Lord Chamberlain and the 
 Comptroller of the Household bring a basin, ewer and 
 towel, for his Majesty to wash. 
 
 The King received a congratulatory address from the 
 city of Cologne, in Germany, where he- had been some 
 time in his exile ; his Majesty saying they were the best 
 people in the world, the most kind and worthy to him that 
 he ever met with. 
 
 I recommended Monsieur Messeray to be Judge Advo- 
 cate in Jersey, by the Vice-Chamberlain's mediation with 
 the Earl of St. Alban's; and saluted my excellent and 
 worthy noble friend, my Lord Ossory, son to the Marquis 
 of Ormond, after many years' absence returned home. 
 
 8th. Mr. Henchman preached on Ephes. v. 5, concern- 
 ing Christian circumspection. From henceforth, was the 
 Liturgy publicly used in our churches, whence it had been 
 for so many years banished. 
 
 15th. Came Sir George Carteret and Lady, to visit us : 
 he was now Treasurer of the Navy. 
 
 28th. I heard his Majesty's speech in the Lords' House, 
 on passing the Bills of Tonnage and Poundage ; restoration 
 of my Lord Ormond to his estate in Ireland ; concerning 
 the Commission of Sewers, and continuance of the Excise. 
 In the afternoon, I saluted my old friend, the Archbishop 
 of Armagh, formerly of Londonderry (Dr. Bramhall). He 
 presented several Irish divines to be promoted as Bishops 
 
 * Pieces of money, so called from having the figure of an angel on them.
 
 g},0 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 in that kingdom, most of the Bishops in the three kingdom* 
 being now almost worn out, and the sees vacant. 
 
 31st. I went to visit Sir Philip Warwick, now Secretary 
 to the Lord Treasurer, at his house in North Cray. 
 
 19th August. Our Vicar read the Thirty-nine Articles to 
 the congregation, the national assemblies beginning now to 
 settle, and wanting instruction. 
 
 23rd. Came Duke Hamilton, Lord Lothian, and several 
 Scottish Lords, to see my garden. 
 
 25th. Colonel Spencer, Colonel of a regiment of horse 
 in our county of Kent, sent to me, and entreated that I 
 would take a commission for a troop of horse, and that I 
 would nominate my Lieutenant and Ensigns ; I thanked 
 him for the honour intended me ; but would by no means- 
 undertake the trouble. 
 
 4th September. I was invited to an ordination by the 
 Bishop of Bangor, in Henry VII/s Chapel, Westminster, 
 and afterwards saw the audience of an Envoyee from the 
 Duke of Anjou, sent to compliment his Majesty's return. 
 
 5th. Came to visit and dine with me the Envoyee of the 
 King of Poland, and Resident of the King of Denmark, &c. 
 
 7th. I went to Chelsea, to visit Mr. Boyle, and see his 
 pneumatic engine perform divers experiments. Thence, to 
 Kensington, to visit Mr. Henshaw, returning home that 
 evening. 
 
 13th. I saw in Southwark, at St. Margaret's fair, 
 monkeys and apes dance, and do other feats of activity, on 
 the high rope ; they were gallantly clad d la monde, went 
 upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their 
 hats ; they saluted one another with as good a grace, as if 
 instructed by a dancing-master; they turned heels over 
 head with a basket having eggs in it, without breaking 
 any; also, with lighted candles in their hands, and on their 
 heads, without extinguishing them,andwith vessels of water 
 without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian wench dance, 
 and perform all the tricks on the high rope, to admiration ; 
 all the Court went to see her. Likewise, here was a man 
 who took up a piece of iron cannon of about 400 Ib. weight 
 with the hair of his head only. 
 
 17th. Went to London, to see the splendid entry of the 
 Prince de Ligne, Ambassador extraordinary from Spain ; 
 he was General of the Spanish King's horse in Flanders,
 
 1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 341 
 
 and was accompanied with divers great persons from thence, 
 and an innumerable retinue. His train consisted of seven- 
 teen coaches, with six horses of his own, besides a great 
 number of English, &c. Greater bravery had I never seen. 
 He was received in the Banqueting House in exceeding 
 state, all the great officers of Court attending. 
 
 13th. In the midst of all this joy and jubilee, the Duke 
 of Gloucester died of the small-pox, in the prime of youth, 
 and a prince of extraordinary hopes. 
 
 27th. The King received the merchants' addresses in 
 his closet, giving them assurances of his persisting to keep 
 Jamaica, choosing Sir Edward Massey, Governor. In the 
 afternoon, the Danish Ambassador's condolences were pre- 
 sented, on the death of the Duke of Gloucester. This 
 evening, I saw the Princess Royal, mother to the Prince of 
 Orange, now come out of Holland in a fatal period. 
 
 6th October. I paid the great tax of poll-money, levied 
 for disbanding the army, till now kept up. I paid as an 
 Esquire 10/., and one shilling for every servant in my 
 house. 
 
 7th. There dined with me a French Count, with Sir 
 George Tuke, who came to take leave of me, being sent 
 over to the Queen-Mother, to break the marriage of the 
 Duke with the daughter of Chancellor Hyde. The Queen 
 would fain have undone it, but it seems matters were 
 reconciled on great offers of the Chancellor's to befriend 
 the Queen, who was much in debt, and was now to have 
 the settlement of her affairs go through his hands. 
 
 llth. The regicides who sat on the life of our late King, 
 were brought to trial in the Old Bailey, before a commission 
 of Oyer and Terminer. 
 
 14th. Axtall, Carew, Clement, Hacker, Hewson, and 
 Peters, were executed. 
 
 17th. Scot, Scroope, Cook, and Jones, suffered for 
 reward of their iniquities at Charing Cross, in sight of the 
 place where they put to death their natural Prince, and in 
 the presence of the King his son, whom they also sought 
 to kill. I saw not their execution, but met their quarters, 
 mangled, and cut, and reeking, as they were brought from 
 the gallows in baskets on the hurdle. Oh, the miraculous 
 providence of God ! 
 
 28th. His Majesty went to meet the Queen-Mother.
 
 342 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 29th. Going to London, my Lord Mayor's show stopped 
 me in Cheapside ; one of the pageants represented a great 
 wood, with the royal oak, and history of his Majesty's 
 miraculous escape, at Boscobel. 
 
 31st. Arrived now to my fortieth year, I rendered to 
 Almighty God my due and hearty thanks. 
 
 1st' November. I went with some of my relations to 
 Court, to show them his Majesty's cabinet and closet of 
 rarities ; the rare miniatures of Peter Oliver, after Raphael, 
 Titian, and other masters, which I infinitely esteem ; also, 
 that large piece of the Duchess of Lennox, done in enamel, 
 by Petitot, and a vast number of agates, onyxes, and 
 intaglios, especially a medallion of Caesar, as broad as my 
 hand ; likewise, rare cabinets of pietra-commessa ; a land- 
 scape of needlework, formerly presented by the Dutch to 
 King Charles the First. Here I saw a vast book of maps, 
 in a volume near four yards large ; a curious ship model ; 
 and, amongst the clocks, one that showed the rising and 
 setting of the sun in the zodiac; the sun represented by a face 
 and rays of gold, upon an azure sky, observing the diurnal 
 and annual motion, rising and setting behind a landscape 
 of hills, the work of our famous Fromantil ; and several 
 other rarities. 
 
 3rd. Arrived the Queen-Mother in England, whence 
 she had been banished almost twenty years ; together with 
 her illustrious daughter, the Princess Henrietta, divers 
 Princes and Noblemen, accompanying them. 
 
 15th. I kissed the Queen-Mother's hand. 
 
 20th. I dined at the Clerk Comptroller's of the Green 
 Cloth, being the first day of the re-establishment of the 
 Court diet, and settling of his Majesty's household. 
 
 23rd. Being this day in the bedchamber of the Princess 
 Henrietta, where were many great beauties and noblemen, 
 I saluted divers of my old friends and acquaintances abroad; 
 his Majesty carrying my Wife to salute the Queen and 
 Princess, and then led her into his closet, and with his own 
 hands showed her divers curiosities. 
 
 25th. Dr. Rainbow preached before the King, on Luke, 
 ii. 14, of the glory to be given God for all His mercies, 
 especially for restoring the Church and government ; now 
 the service was performed with music, voices, &c., as 
 formerly.
 
 1660.] JOHN EVELYN. 343 
 
 27th. Came down the Clerk Comptroller [of the Green 
 Cloth] hy the Lord Steward's appointment, to survey the 
 land at Sayes Court, on which I had pretence, and to make 
 his report.* 
 
 6th December. I waited on my Brother and Sister 
 Evelyn to Court. Now were presented to his Majesty 
 those two rare pieces of drollery, or rather a Dutch Kitchen, 
 painted by Dowe, so finely as hardly to be distinguished 
 from enamel. I was also showed divers rich jewels and 
 crystal vases ; the rare head of Jo. Bellino, Titian's master; 
 Christ in the Garden, by Hannibal Caracci ; two incom- 
 parable heads, by Holbein; the Queen-Mother in aminiature, 
 almost as big as the life ; an exquisite piece of carving ; 
 two unicorn's horns, &c. This in the closet. 
 
 13th. I presented my Son, John, to the Queen-Mother, 
 who kissed him, talked with and made extraordinary much 
 of him. 
 
 14th. I visited my Lady Chancellor, the Marchioness of 
 Ormond, and Countess of Guildford, all of whom we had 
 known abroad in exile. 
 
 18th. I carried Mr. Spellman, a most ingenious 
 gentleman, grandchild to the learned Sir Henry, to my 
 Lord Mordaunt, to whom I had recommended him as 
 Secretary. 
 
 21st. This day died the Princess of Orange, of the small- 
 pox, which entirely altered the face and gallantry of the 
 whole Court. 
 
 22nd. The marriage of the Chancellor's daughter being 
 now newly owned, I went to see her, she being Sir Richard 
 Browne's intimate acquaintance when she waited on the 
 Princess of Orange; she was now at her father's, at 
 Worcester-House, in the Strand. We all kissed her hand, 
 as did also my Lord Chamberlain (Manchester) and 
 Countess of Northumberland. This was a strange change 
 can it succeed well? I spent the evening at St. 
 James's, whither the Princess Henrietta was retired 
 during the fatal sickness of her sister, the Princess of 
 
 * The King's Household used to be supplied with corn and cattle from the 
 different counties : and, oxen being sent up, pasture-grounds of the King, near 
 town, were allotted for them : amongst these, were lands at Deptford and 
 Tottenham-Court, which were under the direction of the Lord Steward and 
 Board of Green Cloth. Sir Richard Browne had the keeping of the lands at 
 Deptford.
 
 344 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Orange, now come over to salute the King her brother. 
 The Princess gave ray Wife an extraordinary^compliment 
 and gracious acceptance, for the "Character"* she had 
 presented her the day before, and which was afterwards 
 printed. 
 
 25th. Preached at the Abbey, Dr. Earle, Clerk of his 
 Majesty's Closet, and my dear friend, now Dean of West- 
 minster, on Luke ii. 13, 14, condoling the breach made in 
 the public joy by the lamented death of the Princess. 
 
 30th. I dined at Court with Mr. Crane, Clerk of the 
 Green Cloth. 
 
 31st. I gave God thanks for his many signal mercies to 
 myself, church, and nation, this wonderful year. 
 
 1660-1. 2nd January. The Queen-Mother, with the 
 Princess Henrietta, began her journey to Portsmouth, in 
 order to her return into France. 
 
 5th. I visited my Lord Chancellor Clarendon, with whom 
 I had been well acquainted abroad. 
 
 6th. Dr. Allestree preached at the Abbey, after which 
 four Bishops were consecrated, Hereford, Norwich, .... 
 
 This night was suppressed a bloody insurrection of some 
 Fifth-Monarchy enthusiasts. Some of them were examined 
 at the Council the next day; but could say nothing to 
 extenuate their madness and unwarrantable zeal. 
 
 I was now chosen (and nominated by his Majesty for 
 one of the Council) by suffrage of the rest of the Members, 
 a Fellow of the Philosophic Society now meeting at 
 Gresham College, where was an assembly of divers learned 
 gentlemen. This being the first meeting since the King's 
 return ; but it had been begun some years before at Oxford, 
 and was continued with interruption here in London during 
 the Rebellion. 
 
 There was another rising of the fanatics, in which some 
 were slain. 
 
 16th. I went to the Philosophic Club, where was examined 
 the Torricellian experiment. I presented my Circle of 
 Mechanical Trades, and had recommended to me the 
 publishing what I had written of Chalcography, f 
 
 25th. After divers years since I had seen any play, I 
 
 * " A Character of England," reprinted in Evelyn's " Miscellaneous 
 Writings," 4to, 1825, pp. 141167. 
 
 f See hereafter, under June 10th, 1C62.
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 345 
 
 went to see acted " The Scornful Lady," at a new theatre 
 in Lincoln's-Inn-Fields. 
 
 30th. Was the first solemn fast and day of humiliation 
 to deplore the sins which so long had provoked God against 
 this afflicted church and people, ordered by Parliament to 
 he annually celebrated to expiate the guilt of the execrable 
 murder of the late King. 
 
 This day (O the stupendous and inscrutable judgments 
 of God !) were the carcases of those arch-rebels, Cromwell, 
 Bradshawe, (the judge who condemned his Majesty), and 
 Ireton (son-in-law to the Usurper), dragged out of their 
 superb tombs in Westminster among the Kings, to Tyburn, 
 and hanged on the gallows there from nine in the morning 
 till six at night, and then buried under that fatal and 
 ignominious monument in a deep pit ; thousands of people 
 who had seen them in all their pride being spectators. Look 
 back at October 22, 1658,* [Oliver's funeral], and be asto- 
 nished ! and fear God and honour the King ; but meddle 
 not with them who are given to change ! 
 
 6th February. To London, to our Society, where I gave 
 notice of the visit of the Danish Ambassador-Extraordinary, 
 and was ordered to return him their acceptance of that 
 honour, and to invite him the next meeting day. 
 
 10th. Dr. Baldero preached at Ely-House, on Matthew 
 vi., 33, of seeking early the kingdom of God; after 
 sermon, the Bishop (Dr. Wren) gave us the blessing, very 
 pontifically. 
 
 13th. I conducted the Danish Ambassador to our meeting 
 at Gresham College, where were showed him various 
 experiments in vacuo, and other curiosities. 
 
 21st. Prince Rupert first showed me how to grave in 
 mezzo Unto. 
 
 26th. I went to Lord Mordaunt's, at Parson's Green.f 
 
 27th. Ash- Wednesday. Preached before the King the 
 Bishop of London (Dr. Sheldon) on Matthew xviii. 25, 
 concerning charity and forgiveness. 
 
 8th. March. I went to my Lord Chancellor's, and 
 
 * P. 330. 
 
 f This house remained in the family till 37.., when the Earl of Peter- 
 borough sold it to Mr. Heaviside, who a few years after sold it to Mr. 
 Merrick, an army agent ; he pulled down the old house, and built that now 
 standing there.
 
 346 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 delivered to him the state of my concernment at Saves 
 Court. 
 
 9th. I went with that excellent person and philosopher, 
 Sir Robert Murray, to visit Mr. Boyle at Chelsea, and saw 
 divers effects of the eolipile for weighing air. 
 
 13th. I went to Lambeth, with Sir R. Browne's pretence 
 to the Wardenship of Merton College, Oxford, to which, as 
 having been about forty years before a student of that 
 House, he was elected by the votes of every Fellow except 
 one : but the statutes of the House being so that, unless 
 every Fellow agree, the election devolves to the Visitor, 
 who is the Archbishop of Canterbury (Dr. Juxon), his 
 Grace gave his nomination to Sir T. Clayton, resident 
 there, and the Physic Professor ; for which I was not at all 
 displeased, because, though Sir Richard missed it by much 
 ingratitude and wrong of the Archbishop (Clayton being 
 no Fellow), yet it would have hindered Sir Richard from 
 attending at Court to settle his greater concerns, and so 
 have prejudiced me, though he was much inclined to have 
 passed his time in a collegiate life, very unfit for him at 
 that time, for many reasons. So I took leave of his 
 Grace, who was formerly Lord Treasurer in the reign of 
 Charles I. 
 
 This afternoon, Prince Rupert showed me, with his own 
 hands, the new way of graving, called mezzo tinto, which 
 afterwards, by his permission, I published in my " History 
 of Chalcography;"* this set so many artists on work, that 
 they soon arrived to the perfection it is since come to, 
 emulating the tenderest miniatures. 
 
 Our Society now gave in my relation of the Peak of 
 Teneriffe, in the Great Canaries, to be added to more 
 queries concerning divers natural things reported of that 
 island. 
 
 I returned home with my Cousin, Tuke, now going for 
 France, as sent by his Majesty to condole the death of that 
 great Minister and politician, Cardinal Mazarine. 
 
 29th. Dr. Heylin (author of the Geography) preached 
 at the Abbey, on Cant. v. 25, concerning friendship and 
 charity ; he was, I think, at this time quite dark, and so 
 had been for some years. 
 
 31st. This night, his Majesty promised to make my Wife 
 
 See hereafter, under June 10, 1662.
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 347 
 
 Lady of the Jewels (a very honourable charge) to the future 
 Queen (but which he never performed). 
 
 1st April. I dined with that great mathematician and 
 virtuoso, Monsieur Zulichem,* inventor of the pendule 
 clock, and discoverer of the phenomenon of Saturn's 
 annulus : he was elected into our Society. 
 
 19th. To London, and saw the bathing and rest of the 
 ceremonies of the Knights of the Bath, preparatory to the 
 coronation ; it was in the Painted Chamber, Westminster. 
 I might have received this honour ; but declined it. The 
 rest of the ceremony was in the chapel at Whitehall, when 
 their swords being laid on the altar, the Bishop delivered 
 them. 
 
 22nd. Was the splendid cavalcade of his Majesty from 
 the Tower of London to Whitehall, when I saw him in 
 the Banquetting House create six Earls, and as many 
 Barons, viz. 
 
 Edward Lord Hyde,f Lord Chancellor, Earl of Claren- 
 don; supported by the Earls of Northumberland and 
 Sussex ; the Earl of Bedford, carried the cap and coronet, 
 the Earl of Warwick, the sword, the Earl of Newport, the 
 mantle. 
 
 Next, was Capel, created Earl of Essex ; 
 
 Brudenell, . . . Cardigan; 
 
 Valentia, .... Anglesea; 
 
 Greenvill, .... Bath; and 
 
 Howard, Earl of Carlisle. 
 
 The Barons were : Denzill Holies ; Cornwallis ; Booth ; 
 Townsend ; Cooper ; Crew ; who were all led up by several 
 Peers, with Garter and officers of arms before them ; when, 
 after obedience on their several approaches to the throne, 
 their patents were presented by Garter King-at-Arms, 
 
 See hereafter, under July, 1664. 
 
 t In 1656, or 1657, attempts were made to remove the Chancellor (Hyde), 
 by accusing him of betraying his Majesty's Counsels, and holding correspond- 
 ence with Cromwell ; but these allegations were so trivial and frivolous, that 
 they manifestly appeared to be nothing but the effects of malice against him, 
 and therefore produced the contrary effects to those which some desired, and 
 strengthened the King's kindness to him ; as giving him just occasion to 
 believe that these suggestions against him proceeded all from one and the 
 same cause, namely, from the ambition which some people had to enter in his 
 room into the first trust of his Majesty's affairs, if once they could remove 
 him from his station. Life of King James II., from his own papers, 1816, 
 vol. I., p. 274.
 
 348 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 which being received by the Lord Chamberlain, and 
 delivered to his Majesty, and by him to the Secretary 
 of State, were read, and then again delivered to his 
 Majesty, and by him to the several Lords created; they 
 were then robed, their coronets and collars put on by his 
 Majesty, and they were placed in rank on both sides the 
 state and throne ; but the Barons put off their caps and 
 circles, and held them in their hands, the Earls keeping on 
 their coronets, as cousins to the King. 
 
 I spent the rest of the evening in seeing the several 
 arch-triumphals built in the streets at several eminent 
 places through which his Majesty was next day to pass, 
 some of which, though temporary, and to stand but one 
 year, were of good invention and architecture, with 
 inscriptions. 
 
 23rd. Was the Coronation of his Majesty Charles the 
 Second in the Abbey-Church of Westminster ; at all which 
 ceremony I was present. The King and his Nobility went 
 to the Tower, I accompanying my Lord Viscount Mordaunt 
 part of the way ; this was on Sunday, the 22nd ; but indeed 
 his Majesty went not till early this morning, and proceeded 
 from thence to Westminster, in this order :* 
 
 First, went the Duke of York's Horse Guards. Mes- 
 sengers of the Chamber. 136 Esquires to the Knights 
 of the Bath, each of whom had two, most richly habited. 
 The Knight Harbinger. Serjeant Porter. Sewers of the 
 Chamber. Quarter Waiters. Six Clerks of Chancery. 
 Clerk of the Signet. Clerk of the Privy Seal. Clerks of 
 the Council, of the Parliament, and of the Crown. Chap- 
 lains in ordinary having dignities, 10. King's Advocates and 
 Remembrancer. Council at Law. Masters of the Chan- 
 cery. Puisne Serjeants. King's Attorney and Solicitor. 
 King's eldest Serjeant. Secretaries of the French and 
 Latin tongue. Gentlemen Ushers, Daily Waiters, Sewers, 
 Carvers, and Cupbearers in ordinary. Esquires of the 
 Body, 4. Masters of standing offices, being no Coun- 
 sellors, viz., of the Tents, Revels,, Ceremonies, Armoury, 
 Wardrobe, Ordnance, Requests. Chamberlain of the 
 Exchequer. Barons of the Exchequer. Judges. Lord Chief- 
 
 * There is a full account of this ceremony, with fine sculptures, in a folio 
 volume, published by John Ogilby, 1662. " A circumstantial Account of the 
 Coronation," by Sir E. Walker, Garter, was published in 1820.
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 349 
 
 Baron. Lord Chief- Justice of the Common Pleas. Master 
 of the Rolls. Lord Chief-Justice of England. Trumpets. 
 Gentlemen of the Privy Chamber. Knights of the Bath, 
 68, in crimson robes, exceeding rich, and the noblest show 
 of the whole cavalcade, his Majesty excepted. Knight 
 Marshal. Treasurer of the Chamber. Master of the 
 Jewels. Lords of the Privy Council. Comptroller of the 
 Household. Treasurer of the Household. Trumpets. 
 Serjeant Trumpet. Two Pursuivants at Arms. Barons. 
 Two Pursuivants at Arms. Viscounts. Two Heralds. 
 Earls. Lord Chamberlain of the Household. Two He- 
 ralds. Marquises. Dukes. Heralds Clarencieux and Nor- 
 roy. Lord Chancellor. Lord High Steward of England. 
 Two persons representing the Dukes of Normandy and 
 Acquitaine, viz., Sir Richard Fanshawe and Sir Herbert 
 Price, in fantastic habits of the time. Gentlemen Ushers. 
 Garter. Lord Mayor of London. The Duke of York 
 alone (the rest by two's). Lord High Constable of 
 England. Lord Great Chamberlain of England. The 
 sword borne by the Earl Marshal of England. The KING, 
 in royal robes and equipage. Afterwards, followed equer- 
 ries, footmen, gentlemen pensioners. Master of the Horse, 
 leading a horse richly caparisoned. Vice-Chamberlain. 
 Captain of the Pensioners. Captain of the Guard. The 
 Guard. The Horse- Guard. The troop of Volunteers, 
 with many other officers and gentlemen. 
 
 This magnificent train on horseback, as rich as em- 
 broidery, velvet, cloth of gold and silver, and jewels, could 
 make them and their prancing horses, proceeded through 
 the streets strewed with flowers, houses hung with rich 
 tapestry, windows and balconies full of ladies ; the London 
 militia lining the ways, and the several companies, with 
 their banners and loud music, ranked in their orders ; the 
 fountains running wine, bells ringing, with speeches made 
 at the several triumphal arches ; at that of the Temple 
 Bar (near which I stood) the Lord Mayor was received by 
 the Bailiff of Westminster, who, in a scarlet robe, made a 
 speech. Thence, with joyful acclamations, his Majesty 
 passed to Whitehall. Bonfires at njght. 
 
 The next day, being St. George's, he went by water to 
 Westminster Abbey. When his Majesty was entered, the 
 Dean and Prebendaries brought all the regalia, and
 
 350 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 delivered them to several noblemen to bear before the 
 King, who met them at the west door of the church, 
 singing an anthem, to the choir. Then, came the peers, in 
 their robes, and coronets in their hands, till his Majesty 
 was placed on a throne elevated before the altar. After- 
 wards, the Bishop of London (the Archbishop of Canterbury 
 being sick) went to every side of the throne to present the 
 King to the people, asking if they would have him for 
 their King, and do him homage ; at this, they shouted four 
 times " God save King Charles the Second ! " Then, an 
 anthem was sung. His Majesty, attended by three Bishops, 
 went up to the altar, and he offered a pall and a pound of 
 gold. Afterwards, he sate down in another chair during 
 the sermon, which was preached by Dr. Morley, Bishop of 
 Worcester. 
 
 After sermon, the King took his oath before the altar 
 to maintain the religion, Magna Charta, and laws of the 
 land. The hymn Veni S. Sp. followed, and then the 
 Litany by two Bishops. Then, the Archbishop of Canter- 
 bury, present but much indisposed and weak, said " Lift 
 up your hearts ; " at which, the King rose up, and put off 
 his robes and upper garments, and was in a waistcoat so 
 opened in divers places, that the Archbishop might com- 
 modiously anoint him, first in the palms of his hands, 
 when an anthem was sung, and a prayer read ; then, his 
 breast and betwixt the shoulders, bending of both arms; and, 
 lastly, on the crown of the head, with apposite hymns and 
 prayers at each anointing ; this done, the Dean closed and 
 buttoned up the waistcoat. After which, was a coif put 
 on, and the cobbium, sindon or dalmatic, and over this a 
 super-tunic of cloth of gold, with buskins and sandals of 
 the same, spurs, and the sword ; a prayer being first said 
 over it by the Archbishop on the altar, before it was girt 
 on by the Lord Chamberlain. Then, the armill, mantle, &c. 
 Then, the Archbishop placed the crown-imperial on the 
 altar, prayed over it, and set it on his Majesty's head, at 
 which all the Peers put on their coronets. Anthems, and 
 rare music, with lutes, viols, trumpets, organs, and voices, 
 were then heard, and the Archbishop put a ring on his 
 Majesty's finger. The King next offered his sword on the 
 altar, which being redeemed, was drawn, and borne before 
 him. Then, the Archbishop delivered him the sceptre, with
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 351 
 
 the dove in one hand, and, in the other, the sceptre with 
 the globe. The King kneeling, the Archbishop pronounced 
 the blessing. His Majesty then ascending again his royal 
 throne, whilst Te Deum was singing, all the Peers did their 
 homage, by every one touching his crown. The Arch- 
 bishop, and the rest of the Bishops, first kissing the King ; 
 who received the Holy Sacrament, and so disrobed, yet 
 with the crown-imperial on his head, and accompanied 
 with all the nobility in the former order, he went on foot 
 upon blue cloth, which was spread and reached from the 
 west door of the Abbey to Westminster stairs, when he 
 took water in a triumphal barge to Whitehall, where was 
 extraordinary feasting. 
 
 24th. I presented his Majesty with his " Panegyric " * 
 in the Privy Chamber, which he was pleased to accept 
 most graciously ; I gave copies to the Lord Chancellor, 
 and most of the noblemen who came to me for it. I dined 
 at the Marquis of Ormondes, where was a magnificent feast, 
 and many great persons. 
 
 1st May. I went to Hyde Park to take the air, where 
 was his Majesty and an innumerable appearance of gal- 
 lants and rich coaches, being now a time of universal 
 festivity and joy. 
 
 2nd. I had audience of my Lord Chancellor about my 
 title to Sayes Court. 
 
 3rd. I went to see the wonderful engine for weaving 
 silk stockings, said to have been the invention of an Oxford 
 scholar forty years since ; and I returned by Fromantil's, 
 the famous clock-maker, to see some pendules, Monsieur 
 Zulichem being with us. 
 
 This evening, I was with my Lord Brouncker, Sir Robert 
 Murray, Sir Patrick Neill, Monsieur Zulichem, and Bull 
 (all of them of our Society, and excellent mathematicians), 
 to show his Majesty, who was present, Saturn's annulus, 
 as some thought, but as Zulichem affirmed with his balteus 
 (as that learned gentleman had published), very near 
 eclipsed by the moon, near the Mons Porphyritis ; also, 
 Jupiter and satellites, through his Majesty's great telescope, 
 drawing thirty-five feet ; on which were divers discourses. 
 
 8th. His Majesty rode in state, with his imperial crown 
 
 * Viz. a Poem on his Majesty's Coronation, the 23rd of April, 1661, being 
 St. George's day.
 
 352 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 on, and all the peers in their robes, in great pomp to the 
 parliament now newly chosen (the old one being dissolved) ; 
 and, that evening, declared in council his intention to marry 
 the Infanta of Portugal. 
 
 9th. At Sir Robert Murray' s, where I met Dr. Wallis, 
 Professor of Geometry in Oxford, where was discourse of 
 several mathematical subjects. 
 
 llth. My Wife presented to his Majesty the Madonna 
 she had copied in miniature from P. Oliver's painting, 
 after Raphael, which she wrought with extraordinary pains 
 and judgment. The King was infinitely pleased with it, 
 and caused it to be placed in his cabinet amongst his best 
 paintings. 
 
 13th. I heard and saw such exercises at the election of 
 scholars at Westminster School to be sent to the Univer- 
 sity in Latin, Greek, Hebrew, and Arabic, in themes and 
 extemporary verses, as wonderfully astonished me in such 
 youths, with such readiness and wit, some of them not 
 above twelve, or thirteen years of age. Pity it is, that 
 what they attain here so ripely, they either do not retain, 
 or do not improve more considerably when they come to 
 be men, though many of them do ; and no less is to be 
 blamed their odd pronouncing of Latin, so that out of 
 England none were able to understand, or endure it. The 
 examinants, or posers, were, Dr. Duport, Greek Professor 
 at Cambridge ; Dr. Fell, Dean of Christ-Church, Oxford ; 
 Dr. Pierson, Dr. Allestree, Dean of Westminster, and any 
 that would. 
 
 14th. His Majesty was pleased to discourse with me 
 concerning several particulars relating to our Society, and 
 the planet, Saturn, &c., as he sate at supper in the with- 
 drawing-room to his bed-chamber. 
 
 16th. I dined with Mr. Garmus, the resident from 
 Hamburgh, who continued his feast near nine whole 
 hours, according to the custom of his country, though 
 there was no great excess of drinking, no man being; 
 obliged to take more than he liked. 
 
 22nd. The Scotch Covenant was burnt by the common 
 hangman in divers places in London. Oh, prodigious 
 change ! 
 
 29th. This was the first anniversary appointed by Act 
 of Parliament to be observed as a day of General Thanks-
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 353 
 
 giving for the miraculous restoration of his Majesty : our 
 vicar preaching on Psalm cxviii. 24, requiring us to be 
 thankful and rejoice, as indeed we had cause. 
 
 4th June. Came Sir Charles Harbord, his Majesty's 
 surveyor, to take an account of what grounds I challenged 
 at Sayes Court. 
 
 27th. I saw the Portugal Ambassador at dinner with 
 bis Majesty in state, where was excellent music. 
 
 2nd July. I went to see the New Spring-Garden, at 
 Lambeth, a pretty contrived plantation. 
 
 19th. We tried our Diving-Bell, or engine, in the water- 
 dock at Deptford, in which our curator continued half an 
 hour under water; it was made of cast lead, let down 
 with a strong cable. 
 
 3rd August. Came my Lord Hatton, Comptroller of 
 his Majesty's household, to visit me. 
 
 9th. I tried several experiments on the sensitive plant 
 and humilis, which contracted with the least touch of the 
 sun through a burning-glass, though it rises and opens 
 only when it shines on it. 
 
 I first saw the famous Queen Pine* brought from Bar- 
 badoes, and presented to his Majesty ; but the first that 
 were ever seen in England were those sent to Cromwell 
 four years since. 
 
 I dined at Mr. Palmer's in Gray's Inn, whose curiosity 
 excelled in clocks and pendules, especially one that had 
 innumerable motions, and played nine or ten tunes on the 
 bells very finely, some of them set in parts ; which was 
 very harmonious. It was wound up but once in a quarter. 
 He had also good telescopes and mathematical instru- 
 ments, choice pictures, and other curiosities. Thence, we 
 went to that famous mountebank, Jo. Punteus. 
 
 Sir Kenelm Digby presented every one of us his Dis- 
 course of the Vegetation of Plants; and Mr. Henshaw, 
 his History of Salt-Petre and Gunpowder. I assisted 
 him to procure his place of French Secretaiy to the King, 
 which he purchased of Sir Henry De Vic. 
 
 * An excellent print in the line manner, 13 inches by 12, was engraved, in 
 1823, by Robert Grave, from the picture at Strawberry-Hill, of King Charles 
 II., receiving this species of fruit from Rose, his gardener, who is presenting 
 it on his knees, at Dawney Court, Buckinghamshire, the seat of the celebrated 
 Duchess of Cleveland. See hereafter, under 1668, August. 
 VOL. I. A A
 
 354 DIARY OF [GREENWICH, 
 
 I went to that famous physician, Sir Fr. Prujean, who 
 showed me his laboratory, his work-house for turning, and 
 other mechanics ; also many excellent pictures, especially 
 the Magdalen of Caracci ; and some incomparable pay sages 
 done in distemper ; he played to me likewise on the poly- 
 thore, an instrument having something of the harp, lute, 
 and theorbo; by none known in England, nor described 
 by any author, nor used, but by this skilful and learned 
 Doctor. 
 
 15th. I went to Tunbridge- Wells, my wife being there 
 for the benefit of her health. Walking about the solitudes, 
 I greatly admired the extravagant turnings, insinuations, 
 and growth of certain birch-trees among the rocks. 
 
 13th September. I presented my " Fumifugium," * 
 dedicated to his Majesty, who was pleased that I should 
 publish it by his special commands, being much gratified 
 with it. 
 
 18th. This day was read our petition to his Majesty for 
 his royal grant, authorizing our Society to meet as a cor- 
 poration, with several privileges. 
 
 An exceeding sickly, wet autumn. 
 
 1st October. I sailed this morning with his Majesty in 
 one of his yachts (or pleasure-boats), vessels not known 
 among us till the Dutch East India Company presented 
 that curious piece to the King ; being very excellent sailing 
 vessels. It was on a wager between his other new pleasure- 
 boat, built frigate-like, and one of the Duke of York's ; 
 the wager 100/. ; the race from Greenwich to Gravesend 
 and back. The King lost it going, the wind being 
 contrary, but saved stakes in returning. There were 
 divers noble persons and lords on board, his Majesty some- 
 times steering himself. His barge and kitchen boat 
 attended. I brake fast this morning with the King at 
 return in his smaller vessel, he being pleased to take me 
 and only four more, who were noblemen, with him ; but 
 dined in his yacht, where we all eat together with his 
 Majesty. In this passage he was pleased to discourse to 
 me about my book inveighing against the nuisance of 
 the smoke of London, and proposing expedients how, by 
 
 * This pamphlet having become scarce, was reprinted for Messrs. White, 
 in Fleet Street, in 4to, in 1772, and is incorporated in Evelyn's " Miscellaneous 
 Writings," edited by W. Upcott, of the London Institution, in 1825, 4to.
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 355 
 
 removing those particulars I mentioned,* it might be re- 
 formed; commanding me to prepare a Bill against the 
 next session of Parliament, being, as he said, resolved to 
 have something done in it. Then he discoursed to me of 
 the improvement of gardens and buildings, now very rare 
 in England comparatively to other countries. He then 
 commanded me to draw up the matter of fact happening 
 at the bloody encounter which then had newly happened 
 between the French and Spanish Ambassadors near the 
 Tower, contending for precedency, at the reception of the 
 Swedish Ambassador ; giving me order to consult Sir 
 William Compton, Master of the Ordnance, to inform me 
 of what he knew of it, and with his favourite, Sir Charles 
 Berkeley, f captain of the Duke's life-guard, then present 
 with his troop and three foot-companies ; with some other 
 reflections and instructions, to be prepared with a declara- 
 tion to take off the reports which went about of his 
 Majesty's partiality in the affairs, and of his officers' and 
 spectators' rudeness whilst the conflict lasted. So I came 
 home that night, and went next morning to London, 
 where from the officers of the Tower, Sir William Compton, 
 Sir Charles Berkeley, and others who were attending at 
 this meeting of the Ambassadors three days before, having 
 collected what I could, I drew up a Narrative in vindica- 
 tion of his Majesty, and the carriage of his officers and 
 standers-by. 
 
 On Thursday, his Majesty sent one of the pages of the 
 back stairs for me to wait on him with my papers, in his 
 cabinet, where was present only Sir Henry Bennett J 
 (Privy-Purse), when beginning to read to his Majesty 
 what I had drawn up, by the time I had read half a page, 
 came in Mr. Secretary Morice with a large paper, desiring 
 to speak with his Majesty, who told him he was now very 
 busy, and therefore ordered him to come again some other 
 time ; the Secretary replied that what he had in his hand 
 was of extraordinary importance. So the King rose up, 
 and, commanding me to stay, went aside to a corner of the 
 room with the Secretary; after a while, the Secretary 
 
 * In the Fumifugium, before mentioned. 
 
 + Afterwards Earl of Falmouth, who was killed by the side of the Duke of 
 York, in the first Dutch war. 
 
 t Afterwards Secretary of State, Earl of Arlington, and Lord Chamberlain. 
 A A 2
 
 356 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 being despatched, his Majesty returning to me at the 
 table, a letter was brought him from Madame out of 
 France ; this he read and then bid me proceed from where 
 I left off. This I did till I had ended all the narrative, to 
 his Majesty's great satisfaction ; and, after I had inserted 
 one or two more clauses, in which his Majesty instructed 
 me, commanded that it should that night be sent to the 
 Post-house, directed to the Lord Ambassador at Paris 
 (the Earl of St. Alban's) and then at leisure to prepare 
 him a copy, which he would publish.* This I did, and 
 immediately sent my papers to the Secretary of State, 
 with his Majesty's express command of despatching them 
 that night for France. Before I went out of the King's 
 closet, he called me back to show me some ivory statues, 
 and other curiosities that I had not seen before. 
 
 3rd. Next evening, being in the withdrawing-room 
 adjoining the bedchamber, his Majesty espying me came 
 to me from a great crowd of noblemen standing near the 
 fire, and asked me if I had done ; and told me he feared 
 it might be a little too sharp, on second thoughts ; for he 
 had that morning spoken with the French Ambassador, 
 who it seems had palliated the matter, and was very tame ; 
 and therefore directed me where I should soften a period 
 or two, before it was published (as afterwards it was).f 
 This night also he spake to me to give him a sight of what 
 was sent, and to bring it to him in his bed-chamber; 
 which I did, and received it again from him at dinner, 
 next day. By Saturday, having finished it with all his 
 Majesty's notes, the King being gone abroad, I sent the 
 papers to Sir Henry Bennett (Privy Purse and a great 
 favourite), and slipped home, being myself much indisposed 
 and harassed with going about, and sitting up to write. 
 
 19th. I went to London, to visit my Lord of Bristol, 
 having been with Sir John Denham (his Majesty's sur- 
 veyor) to consult with him about the placing of his palace 
 at Greenwich, which I would have had built between the 
 river and the Queen's house, so as a large square cut should 
 
 The Narrative is reprinted hereafter. 
 
 t Notwithstanding this positive assertion, it is very extraordinary that it 
 has never been inserted in any Library, or Auction Catalogue, that a gentle- 
 man of the greatest research (Mr. Bindley) ever saw. Perhaps it was 
 recalled.
 
 1661.] JOHN EVELYN. 357 
 
 have let in the Thames like a bay ; but Sir John was for 
 setting it on piles at the very brink of the water, which I 
 did not assent to ; and so came away, knowing Sir John 
 to be a better poet than architect, though he had Mr. Webb 
 (Inigo Jones's man) to assist him.* 
 
 29th. I saw the Lord May or f pass in his water triumph 
 to Westminster, being the first solemnity of this nature 
 after twenty years. 
 
 2nd November. Came Sir Henry Bennett, since Lord 
 Arlington, to visit me, and to acquaint me that his Majesty 
 would do me the honour to come and see my garden ; but, 
 it being then late, it was deferred. 
 
 3rd. One Mr. Breton J preached his probation-sermon 
 at our parish-church, and indeed made a most excellent 
 discourse on John i. 29, of God's free grace to penitents, 
 so that I could not but recommend him to the patron. 
 
 10th. In the afternoon, preached at the Abbey Dr. 
 Basire, that great traveller, or rather French Apostle, who 
 had been planting the Church of England in divers parts 
 of the Levant and Asia. He showed that the Church of 
 England was, for purity of doctrine, substance, decency, 
 and beauty, the most perfect under Heaven ; that England 
 was the very land of Goshen. 
 
 llth. I was so idle as to go to see a play called " Love 
 and Honour." Dined at Arundel House ; and that 
 evening discoursed with his Majesty about shipping, in 
 which he was exceeding skilful. 
 
 1 5th. I dined with the Duke of Ormond, who told me 
 there were no moles in Ireland, nor any rats till of late, and 
 that but in one county ; but it was a mistake that spiders 
 would not live there, only they were not poisonous. Also, 
 that they frequently took salmon with dogs. 
 
 16th. I presented my Translation of " Naudaeus con- 
 cerning Libraries" to my Lord Chancellor; but it was 
 miserably false printed. 
 
 * See p. 361. 
 
 f Sir John Frederick. The pageant for this day was called " London's 
 Triumph, at the Charges of the Grocers' Company. By John Tatham." See 
 the Gentleman's Magazine, xciv. ii. 517. 
 
 J He obtained the living. 
 
 A Tragi-Comedy, by Sir William Davenant ; the performance appears to 
 have been in the morning.
 
 358 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 1 7th. Dr. Creighton, a Scot, author of the " Florentine 
 Council," and a most eloquent man and admirable Grecian, 
 preached on Cant. vi. 13, celebrating the return and 
 restoration of the Church and King. 
 
 20th. At the Royal Society, Sir William Petty proposed 
 divers things for the improvement of shipping ; a versatile 
 keel that should be on hinges, and concerning sheathing 
 ships with thin lead.* 
 
 24th. This night his Majesty fell into discourse with me 
 concerning bees, &c. 
 
 26th. I saw Hamlet Prince of Denmark played ; but now 
 the old plays began to disgust this refined age, since his 
 Majesty's being so long abroad. 
 
 28th. I dined at Chiffinch's house-warming, in St. 
 James's Park ; he was his Majesty's closet-keeper, and had 
 his new house full of good pictures, &c. There dined with 
 us Russell, Popish Bishop of Cape Verd, who was sent out 
 to negotiate his Majesty's match with the Infanta of 
 Portugal, after the Ambassador was returned. 
 
 29th. I dined at the Countess of Peterborough's, and 
 went that evening to Parson's Green with my Lord 
 Mordaunt, with whom I stayed that night. 
 
 1st December. I took leave of my Lord Peterborough, 
 going now to Tangier, which was to be delivered to the 
 English on the match with Portugal. 
 
 3rd. By universal suffrage of our philosophic assembly, 
 an order was made and registered, that I should receive 
 their public thanks for the honourable mention I made of 
 them by the name of Royal Society, in my Epistle dedica- 
 tory to the Lord Chancellor, before my Traduction of 
 Naudseus. Too great an honour for a trifle. 
 
 4th. I had much discourse with the Duke of York, con- 
 cerning strange cures he affirmed of a woman who swallowed 
 a whole ear of barley, which worked out at her side. I 
 told him of the knife swallowed f, and the pins. 
 
 I took leave of the Bishop of Cape Verd, now going in 
 the fleet to bring over our new Queen. 
 
 * Of which see more hereafter. 
 
 f This refers to the Dutchman, p. 26, and to an extraordinary case, con- 
 tained in a " miraculous cure of the Prussian Swallow Knife, &c., by Dan. 
 Lakin, P. C." quarto, London, 1642, with a woodcut representing the object 
 himself, and the size of the knife.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 359 
 
 7th. I dined at Arundel House, the day when the great 
 contest in Parliament was concerning the restoring the 
 Duke of Norfolk ; however, it was carried for him. I also 
 presented my little trifle of Sumptuary Laws, entitled 
 " Tyrannus " [or " The Mode."] 
 
 14th. I saw otter-hunting with the King, and killed one. 
 
 16th. I saw a French Comedy acted at Whitehall. 
 
 20th. The Bishop of Gloucester* preached at the Abbey, 
 at the funeral of the Bishop of Hereford, brother to the 
 Duke of Albemarle. It was a decent solemnity. There 
 was a silver mitre, with episcopal robes, borne by the 
 herald before the hearse, which was followed by the Duke 
 his brother, and all the Bishops, with divers noblemen. 
 
 23rd. I heard an Italian play and sing to the guitar with 
 extraordinary skill before the Duke. 
 
 1661-2. 1st January. I went to London, invited to the 
 solemn foolery of the Prince de la Grange, at Lincoln's 
 Inn, where came the King, Duke, &c. It began with a 
 grand masque, and a formal pleading before the mock 
 Princes, Grandees, Nobles, and Knights of the Sun. He 
 had his Lord Chancellor, Chamberlain, Treasurer, and other 
 Royal Officers, gloriously clad and attended. It ended in 
 a magnificent banquet. One Mr. Lort was the young 
 spark who maintained the pageantry. 
 
 6th. This evening, according to custom, his Majesty 
 opened the revels of that night by throwing the dice him- 
 self in the privy-chamber, where was a table set on 
 purpose, and lost his 100/. (The year before he won 1500/.) 
 The ladies also played very deep. I came away when the 
 Duke of Ormond had won about 1000/., and left them 
 still at passage, cards, &c. At other tables, both there and 
 at the Groom-porter's, observing the wicked folly and 
 monstrous excess of passion amongst some losers ; sorry 
 am I that such a wretched custom as play to that excess 
 should be countenanced in a Court, which ought to be an 
 example of virtue to the rest of the kingdom. 
 
 9th. I saw acted The Third Part of the Siege of 
 Rhodes." In this acted the fair and famous comedian 
 called Roxalana from the part she performed ; and I think 
 it was the last, she being taken to be the Earl of Oxford's 
 
 * Dr. William Nicholson.
 
 360 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Miss (as at this time they began to call lewd women). It 
 was in recitative music. 
 
 10th. Being called into his Majesty's closet when Mr. 
 Cooper, the rare limner, was crayoning of the King's face 
 and head, to make the stamps for the new milled money now 
 contriving, I had the honour to hold the candle whilst it 
 was doing, he choosing the night and candle-light for the 
 better finding out the shadows. During this, his Majesty 
 discoursed with me on several things relating to painting 
 and graving. 
 
 llth. I dined at Arundel House, where I heard excellent 
 music performed by the ablest masters, both French and 
 English, on theorbos, viols, organs, and voices, as an exer- 
 cise against the coming of the Queen, purposely composed 
 for her chapel. Afterwards, my Lord Aubigny (her Majesty's 
 Almoner to be) showed us his elegant lodging, and his 
 wheel-chair for ease and motion, with divers other curi- 
 osities ; especially a kind of artificial glass, or porcelain, 
 adorned with relievos of paste, hard and beautiful. Lord 
 Aubigny (brother to the Duke of Lennox) was a person of 
 good sense, but wholly abandoned to ease and effeminacy. 
 
 I received of Sir Peter Ball, the Queen's Attorney, a 
 draught of an Act against the nuisance of the smoke of 
 London, to be reformed by removing several trades which 
 are the cause of it, and endanger the health of the King 
 and his people. It was to have been offered to the Parlia- 
 ment, as his Majesty commanded. 
 
 12th. AtSt. James's chapel preached, or rather harangued, 
 the famous orator, Monsieur Morus,* in French. There 
 were present the King, Duke, French Ambassador, Lord 
 Aubigny, Earl of Bristol, and a world of Roman Catholics, 
 drawn thither to hear this eloquent Protestant. 
 
 15th. There was a general fast through the whole 
 nation, and now celebrated in London, to avert God's heavy 
 judgments on this land. Great rain had fallen without any 
 frost, or seasonable cold, not only in England, but in 
 Sweden, and the most northern parts, being here near as 
 warm as at Midsummer in some years. 
 
 This solemn fast was held for the House of Commons at 
 
 * Probably, the famous Alexander Morus (the antagonist of Milton) who 
 was here in 1662. He was a very eloquent and much-admired preacher.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 3d 
 
 St. Margaret's. Dr. Reeves, Dean of Windsor, preached 
 on Joshua, vii. 12, showing how the neglect of exacting 
 justice on offenders (by which he insinuated such of the 
 old King's murderers as were yet reprieved and in the 
 Tower) was a main cause of God's punishing a land. He 
 brought in that of the Gibeonites, as well as Achan and 
 others, concluding with an eulogy of the Parliament for 
 their loyalty in restoring the Bishops and Clergy, and 
 vindicating the Church from sacrilege. 
 
 16th. Having notice of the Duke of York's intention to 
 visit my poor habitation and garden this day, I returned, 
 when he was pleased to do me that honour of his own 
 accord, and to stay some time viewing such things as I 
 had to entertain his curiosity. Afterwards, he caused me 
 to dine with him at the Treasurer of the Navy's house, 
 and to sit with him covered at the same table. There 
 were his Highness, the Duke of Ormoiid, and several 
 Lords. Then they viewed some of my grounds .about a 
 project for a receptacle for ships to be moored in, which 
 was laid aside as a fancy of Sir Nicholas Crisp. After this, 
 I accompanied the Duke to an East India vessel that 
 lay at Blackwall, where we had entertainment of several 
 curiosities. Amongst other spirituous drinks, as punch, 
 &c., they gave us Canary that had been carried to and 
 brought from the Indies, which was indeed incomparably 
 good. I returned to London with his Highness. This night 
 was acted before his Majesty " The Widow," a lewd play. 
 
 18th. I came home to be private a little, not at all 
 affecting the life and hurry of Court. 
 
 24th. His Majesty entertained me with his intentions 
 of building his Palace of Greenwich, and quite demolish- 
 ing the old one ; on which I declared my thoughts. 
 
 25th. I dined with the Trinity-Company at their house, 
 that Corporation being by charter fixed at Deptford. 
 
 3rd February. I went to Chelsea, to see Sir Arthur 
 Gorges' house. 
 
 llth. I saw a comedy acted before the Duchess of York 
 at the Cockpit. The King was not at it. 
 
 17th. I went with my Lord of Bristol to see his house 
 at Wimbledon,* newly bought of the Queen-Mother, to 
 
 It devolved afterwards to Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, who built a
 
 362 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 help contrive the garden after the modern. It is a deli- 
 cious place for prospect and the thickets, but the soil cold 
 and weeping clay. Returned that evening with Sir Henry 
 Bennett. 
 
 This night was huried in Westminster- Abbey the Queen 
 of Bohemia,* after all her sorrows and afflictions being 
 come to die in the arms of her nephew, the King : also 
 this night and the next day fell such a storm of hail, 
 thunder, and lightning, as never was seen the like in any 
 man's memory, especially the tempest of wind, being south- 
 west, which subverted, besides huge trees, many houses, 
 innumerable chimneys (amongst others that of my parlour 
 at Sayes Court), and made such havoc at land and sea, 
 that several perished on both. Divers lamentable fires 
 were also kindled at this time ; so exceedingly was God's 
 hand against this ungrateful and vicious nation and Court. 
 
 20th. I returned home to repair my house, miserably 
 shattered by the late tempest. 
 
 24th March. I returned home with my whole family, 
 which had been most part of the winter, since October, at 
 London, in lodgings near the Abbey of Westminster. 
 
 6th ApriL Being of the Vestry, in the afternoon we 
 ordered that the communion-table should be set (as usual) 
 altar-wise, with a decent rail in front, as before the 
 Rebellion. 
 
 17th. The young Marquis of Argyle, whose turbulent 
 father was executed in Scotland, came to see my garden. 
 He seemed a man of parts. 
 
 7th May. I waited on Prince Rupert to our Assembly, 
 where were tried several experiments in Mr. Boyle's vacuum. 
 A man thrusting in his arm, upon exhaustion of the air, 
 had his flesh immediately swelled so as the blood was near 
 bursting the veins: he, drawing it out, we found it all 
 speckled. 
 
 14th. To London, being chosen one of the Commis- 
 sioners for reforming the buildings, ways, streets, and 
 incumbrances, and regulating the hackney coaches in the 
 
 new house there, burnt down many years since. The property now belongs 
 to Earl Spencer, who has built a smaller honse. There are two scarce and 
 curious views of the old house, engraved by Winstanley. 
 
 * Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, daughter of James I., a woman of excellent 
 understanding, and most amiable disposition.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 363 
 
 City of London, taking my oath before my Lord Chan- 
 cellor, and then went to his Majesty's Surveyor's Office, in 
 Scotland- Yard, about naming and establishing officers, 
 adjourning till the 16th, when I went to view how St. 
 Martin's Lane might be made more passable into the 
 Strand. There were divers gentlemen of quality in this 
 commission. 
 
 25th. I went this evening to London, in order to our 
 journey to Hampton Court, to see the new Queen, who, 
 having landed at Portsmouth, had been married to the 
 King a week before by the Bishop of London. 
 
 30th. The Queen arrived with a train of Portuguese 
 ladies in their monstrous fardingales, or guard-infantes, 
 their complexions olivader * and sufficiently unagreeable. 
 Her Majesty in the same habit, her fore-top long and 
 turned aside very strangely. She was yet of the hand- 
 somest countenance of all the rest, and, though low of 
 stature, prettily shaped, languishing and excellent eyes, 
 her teeth wronging her mouth by sticking a little too far 
 out ; for the rest lovely enough. 
 
 31st. I saw the Queen at dinner ; the Judges 'came 
 to compliment her arrival, and, after them, the Duke of 
 Ormond brought me to kiss her hand. 
 
 2nd June. The Lord Mayor and Aldermen made their 
 addresses to the Queen, presenting her 1000/. in gold. 
 Now saw I her Portuguese ladies, and the Guarda-damas, 
 or Mother of her Maids, f and the old knight, a lock of 
 whose hair quite covered the rest of his bald pate, bound 
 on by a thread, very oddly. I saw the rich gondola sent 
 to his Majesty from the State of Venice ; but it was not 
 comparable for swiftness to our common wherries, though 
 managed by Venetians. 
 
 4th. Went to visit the Earl of Bristol, at Wimbledon. 
 
 8th. I saw her Majesty at supper privately in her bed- 
 chamber. 
 
 * Of a dark olive complexion. It has been noticed in other accounts that 
 the Queen's Portuguese Ladies of Honour, who came over with her, were 
 uncommonly ill-favoured, and disagreeable in their appearance. See Faithorne's 
 curious print of her Majesty in the costume here described. 
 
 f- The Maids of Honour had a Mother at least as early as the reign of 
 Elizabeth. The office is supposed to have been abolished about the period of 
 the Revolution of 1668. Lodge's Illustrations of British History, III. 227. .
 
 3(54, . DIARY OP [HAMPTON COURT, 
 
 9th. I heard the Queen's Portugal music, consisting of 
 pipes, harps, and very ill voices. 
 
 Hampton Court is as noble and uniform a pile, and as 
 capacious as any Gothic architecture can have made it. 
 There is an incomparable furniture in it, especially hang- 
 ings designed by Raphael, very rich with gold ; also many 
 rare pictures, especially the Csesarean Triumphs of Andrea 
 Mantegna, formerly the Duke of Mantua's ; of the tapes- 
 tries, I believe the world can show nothing nobler of the 
 kind than the stories of Abraham and Tobit. The gallery 
 of horns is very particular for the vast beams of stags, 
 elks, antelopes, &c. The Queen's bed was an embroidery 
 of silver on crimson velvet, and cost 80 OO/., being a pre- 
 sent made by the States of Holland when his Majesty 
 returned, and had formerly been given by them to our 
 King's sister, the Princess of Orange, and, being bought of 
 her again, was now presented to the King. The great 
 looking-glass and toilet, of beaten and massive gold, was 
 given by the Queen-Mother. The Queen brought over 
 with her from Portugal such Indian cabinets as had never 
 before been seen here. The great hall is a most magnifi- 
 cent room. The chapel-roof excellently fretted and gilt. 
 I was also curious to visit the wardrobe and tents, and 
 other furniture of state. The park, formerly a flat and 
 naked piece of ground, now planted with sweet rows of 
 lime trees ; and the canal for water now near perfected ; 
 also the air-park. In the garden is a rich and noble foun- 
 tain, with Sirens, statues, &c., cast in copper, by Fanelli ; 
 but no plenty of water. The cradle-work of horn beam 
 in the garden is, for the perplexed twining of the trees, 
 very observable. There is a parterre which they call Para- 
 dise, in which is a pretty banqueting-house set over a 
 cave, or cellar. All these gardens might be exceedingly 
 improved, as being too narrow for such a palace. 
 
 10th. I returned to London, and presented my " His- 
 tory of Chalcography " (dedicated to Mr. Boyle) to our 
 Society.* 
 
 19th. I went to Albury, to visit Mr. Henry Howard, 
 soon after he had procured the dukedom to be restored. 
 This gentleman had now compounded a debt of 200,000/., 
 
 See Evelyn's "Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, p. 243.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 365 
 
 contracted by his grandfather. I was much obliged to that 
 great virtuoso, and to this young gentleman, with whom I 
 stayed a fortnight. 
 
 2nd July. We hunted and killed a buck in the park, 
 Mr. Howard inviting most of the gentlemen of the country 
 near him. 
 
 3rd. My wife met me at Woodcot, whither Mr. Howard 
 accompanied me to see my son John, who had been much 
 brought up amongst Mr. Howard's children at Arundel 
 House, till, for fear of their perverting him in the Catholic 
 religion, I was forced to take him home. 
 
 8th. To London, to take leave of the Duke and Duchess 
 of Ormond, going then into Ireland with an extraordinary 
 retinue. 
 
 13th. Spent some time with the Lord Chancellor, 
 where I had discourse with my Lord Willoughby, Gover- 
 nor of Barbadoes, concerning divers particulars of that 
 colony. 
 
 28th. His Majesty going to sea to meet the Queen- 
 Mother, now coming again for England, met with such ill 
 weather as greatly endangered him. I went to Greenwich, 
 to wait on the Queen, now landed. 
 
 30th. To London, where was a meeting about Charitable 
 Uses, and particularly to inquire how the City had dis- 
 posed of the revenues of Gresham College, and why the 
 salaries of the professors there were no better improved. 
 I was on this commission, with divers Bishops and Lords 
 of the Council; but little was the progress we could 
 make. 
 
 31st. I sat with the Commissioners about reforming 
 buildings and streets of London, and we ordered the pav- 
 ing of the way from St. James's North, which was a quag- 
 mire, and also of the Haymarket about Piqudillo [Picca- 
 dilly], and agreed upon instructions to be printed and 
 published for the better keeping the streets clean. 
 
 1st August. Mr. H. Howard, his brothers Charles, 
 Edward, Bernard, Philip* now the Queen's Almoner, (all 
 brothers of the Duke of Norfolk, still in Italy), came with 
 a great train, and dined with me ; Mr. H. Howard leaving 
 with me his eldest and youngest sons, Henry and Thomas, 
 
 * Since Cardinal at Rome.
 
 366 DIARY OP ;: [LONDON, 
 
 for three or four days, my son, John, having been sometime 
 bred up in their father's house. 
 
 4th. Came to see me the old Countess of Devonshire,* 
 with that excellent and worthy person, my Lord, her son, 
 from Roehampton. 
 
 5th. To London, and next day to Hampton Court, about 
 my purchase, and took leave of Sir R. Fanshawe, now going 
 Ambassador to Portugal. 
 
 13th. Our Charter being now passed under the broad 
 Seal, constituting us a corporation under the name of The 
 Royal Society for the improvement of natural knowledge 
 by experiment, was this day read, and was all that was done 
 this afternoon, being very large. 
 
 14th. I sat on the commission for Charitable Uses, the 
 Lord Mayor and others of the Mercers' Company being 
 summoned, to answer some complaints of the Professors, 
 grounded on a clause in the will of Sir Thomas Gresham, 
 the founder. 
 
 This afternoon, the Queen-Mother, with the Earl of St. 
 Alban's and many great ladies and persons, was pleased to 
 honour my poor villa with her presence, and to accept of 
 a collation. She was exceedingly pleased, and staid till 
 very late in the evening. 
 
 15th. Came my Lord Chancellor (the Earl of Claren- 
 don) and his lady, his purse and mace borne before him, 
 to visit me. They were likewise collationed with us, and 
 were very merry. They had all been our old acquaintance 
 in exile, and indeed this great person had ever been my 
 friend. His son, Lord Cornbury, was here, too. 
 
 17th. Being the Sunday when the Common Prayer- 
 Book, reformed and ordered to be used for the future, was 
 appointed to be read, and the solemn League and Covenant 
 to be abjured by all the incumbents of England under 
 penalty of losing their livings; our vicar read it this 
 morning. 
 
 20th. There were strong guards in the city this day, 
 
 * Christian, Countess of Devonshire. She was of considerable celebrity for 
 her devotion, hospitality, her great care in the management of her son's 
 affairs ; and as a patroness of the wits of the age, who frequently met at her 
 house : also for her loyalty and correspondence to promote the restoration. 
 King Charles II. frequently visited her at this place with the Queeii-Mother 
 and the Royal Family. There is a life of this lady, written by Mr. Pomfret.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 367 
 
 apprehending some tumults, many of the Presbyterian 
 ministers not conforming. I dined with the Vice- 
 Chamberlain, and then went to see the Queen-Mother, 
 who was pleased to give me many thanks for the enter- 
 tainment she received at my house, when she recounted to 
 me many observable stories of the sagacity of some dogs 
 she formerly had. 
 
 21st. I was admitted and then sworn one of the Council 
 of the Royal Society, being nominated in his Majesty's 
 original grant to be of this Council for the regulation of 
 the Society, and making laws and statutes conducible to 
 its establishment and progress, for which we now set apart 
 every Wednesday morning till they were all finished. 
 Lord Viscount Brouncker (that excellent mathematician) 
 was also by his Majesty, our founder, nominated our first 
 President. The King gave us the arms of England to be 
 borne in a canton in our arms, and sent us a mace of 
 silver gilt, of the sameTashion and bigness as those carried 
 before his Majesty, to be borne before our president on 
 meeting days. It was brought by Sir Gilbert Talbot, 
 Master of his Majesty's Jewel-house. 
 
 22nd. I dined with my Lord Brouncker and Sir Robert 
 Murray, and then went to consult about a new-modelled 
 ship at Lambeth, the intention being to reduce that art 
 to as certain a method as any other part of architecture. 
 
 23rd. I was spectator of the most magnificent triumph 
 that ever floated on the Thames,* considering the innu- 
 merable boats and vessels, dressed and adorned with 
 all [imaginable pomp, but, above all, the thrones, arches, 
 pageants, and other representations, stately barges of the 
 Lord Mayor and Companies, with various inventions, 
 music and peals of ordnance both from the vessels and the 
 shore, going to meet and conduct the new Queen from 
 Hampton Court to Whitehall, at the first time of her 
 coming to town. In my opinion, it far exceeded all the 
 Venetian Bucentoras, &c., on the Ascension, when they 
 go to espouse the Adriatic. His Majesty and the Queen 
 
 * An account of this solemnity was published in ** Aqua Triumphalis ; being 
 a true relation of the honourable City of London entertaining their sacred 
 Majesties upon the River of Thames, and welcoming them from Hampton 
 Court to Whitehall, &c. Engraved by John Tatham," folio, 1662. See 
 Gentleman's Magazine, vol. xciv. ii. 516.
 
 308 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 came in an antique-shaped open vessel, covered with a 
 state, or canopy, of cloth of gold, made in form of a cupola, 
 supported with high Corinthian pillars, wreathed with 
 flowers, festoons, and garlands. I was in our new-built 
 vessel, sailing amongst them. 
 
 29th. The Council and Fellows of the Royal Society 
 went in a body to Whitehall, to acknowledge his Majesty's 
 royal grace in granting our Charter, and vouchsafing to be 
 himself our Founder ; when the President made an elo- 
 quent speech, to which his Majesty gave a gracious reply, 
 and we all kissed his hand. Next day, we went in like 
 manner with our address to my Lord Chancellor, who had 
 much promoted our patent : he received us with extraordi- 
 nary favour. In the evening, I went to the Queen-Mother's 
 Court, and had much discourse with her. 
 
 1st September. Being invited by Lord Berkeley, I went 
 to Durdans,* where dined his Majesty, the Queen, Duke, 
 Duchess, Prince Rupert, Prince Edward, and abundance of 
 noblemen. I went, after dinner, to visit my brother of 
 Woodcot, my sister having been delivered of a son a little 
 before, but who had now been two days dead. 
 
 4th. Commission for Charitable Uses, my Lord Mayor 
 and Aldermen being again summoned, and the improve- 
 ments of Sir Thomas Gresham's estate examined. There 
 were present the Bishop of London, the Lord Chief Justice, 
 and the King's Attorney. 
 
 6th. Dined with me Sir Edward Walker, Garter King- 
 at-Arms, Mr. Slingsby, Master of the Mint, and several 
 others. 
 
 17th. We now resolved that the Arms of the Society 
 should be, a field Argent, with a canton of the arms of 
 England ; the supporters two talbots Argent ; Crest, an 
 eagle Or holding a shield with the like arms of England, 
 viz., three lions. The words Nullius in verbd. It was 
 presented to his Majesty for his approbation, and orders 
 given to Garter King-at-Arms to pass the diploma of their 
 office for it. 
 
 20th. I presented a petition to his Majesty about my 
 own concerns, and afterwards accompanied him to Monsieur 
 Febure, his chymist (and who had formerly been my 
 master in Paris), to see his accurate preparation for the 
 
 * At Epsom.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 369 
 
 composing Sir "Walter Raleigh's rare cordial ; he made a 
 learned discourse before his Majesty in French on each 
 ingredient, 
 
 27th. Came to visit me Sir George Saville,* grandson 
 to the learned Sir Henry Saville, who published St. Chry- 
 sostom. Sir George was a witty gentleman, if not a little 
 too prompt and daring. 
 
 3rd October. I was invited to the College of Physicians, 
 where Dr. Meret, a learned man and library-keeper, 
 showed me the library, theatre for anatomy, and divers 
 natural curiosities; the statue and epigraph under it of 
 that renowned physician, Dr. Harvey, discoverer of the 
 circulation of the blood. There I saw Dr. Gilbert, Sir 
 William Paddy's, and other pictures of men famous in 
 their faculty. 
 
 Visited Mr. Wright, f a Scotsman, who had lived long at 
 Rome, and was esteemed a good painter. The pictures of 
 the Judges at Guildhall are of his hand, and so are some 
 pieces in Whitehall, as the roof in his Majesty's old bed- 
 chamber, being Astraea, the St. Catherine, and a chimney- 
 piece in the Queen's privy chamber ; but his best, in my 
 opinion, is Lacy, the famous Roscius or comedian, whom 
 he has painted in three dresses, as a gallant, a Presbyterian 
 minister, and a Scotch highlander in his plaid. J It is in 
 his Majesty's dining-room, at Windsor. He had at his 
 house an excellent collection, especially that small piece of 
 Correggio, Scotus of de la Marca, a design of Paulo ; and, 
 above all, those ruins of Polydore, with some good agates 
 and medals, especially a Scipio, and a Caesar's head of gold. 
 
 15th. I this day delivered my " Discourse concerning 
 Forest-Trees " to the Society, upon occasion of certain 
 queries sent to us by the Commissioners of his Majesty's 
 Navy, being the first book that was printed by order of the 
 Society, and by their printer, since it was a Corporation. 
 
 16th. I saw "Volpone" acted at Court before their 
 Majesties. 
 
 21st. To the Queen-Mother's Court, where her Majesty 
 
 * Afterwards, the celebrated Marquis of Halifax. t See p. 331. 
 
 J A private etching from this picture was made in 1825, by William Hop- 
 kins, one of the pages to Princess Elizabeth. Mr. John Lacy is represented 
 in his three principal characters, viz. Teague, in the Committee ; Scruple, in 
 the Cheats ; and GaUiard, hi the Variety. He died hi 1681. 
 VOL. I. B B
 
 370 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 related to us divers passages of her escapes during the 
 Rebellion and wars in England. 
 
 28th. To Court in the evening, where the Queen-Mother, 
 the Queen-Consort, and his Majesty, being advertised of 
 some disturbance, forebore to go to the Lord Mayor's show 
 and feast appointed next day, the new Queen not having 
 yet seen that triumph. 
 
 29th. Was my Lord Mayor's* Show, with a number of 
 sumptuous pageants, speeches, and verses. I was standing 
 in a house in Cheapside against the place prepared for 
 their Majesties. The Prince and heir of Denmark was 
 there, but not our King. There were also the maids of 
 honour. I went to Court this evening, anql had much dis- 
 , course with Dr. Basiers,f one of his Majesty's chaplains, 
 the great traveller, who showed me the syngraphs and 
 original subscriptions of divers eastern patriarchs and 
 Asian churches to our confession. 
 
 4th November. I was invited to the wedding of the 
 daughter of Sir George Carteret, (the Treasurer of the Navy 
 and King's Vice-Chamberlain), married to Sir Nicholas 
 Slaning, Knight of the Bath, by the Bishop of London, in 
 the Savoy chapel; after which, was an extraordinary feast. 
 
 5th. The Council of the Royal Society met to amend 
 the Statutes, and dined together : afterwards meeting at 
 Gresham College, where was a discourse suggested by me, 
 concerning planting his Majesty's Forest of Dean with oak, 
 now so much exhausted of the choicest ship-timber in the 
 world. 
 
 20th. Dined with the Comptroller, Sir Hugh Pollard; 
 afterwards, saw " The Young Admiral " J acted before the 
 King. 
 
 21st. Spent the evening at Court, Sir Kenelm Digby 
 giving me great thanks for my Sylva. 
 
 27th. Went to London to see the entrance of the Russian 
 Ambassador, whom his Majesty ordered to be received with 
 
 * Sir John Robinson, Knt. and Bart. Clothworker. The pageant on this 
 occasion, which was the same as in the preceding year (see note, p. 357), was 
 at the charge of the Clothworker's Company. 
 
 t Isaac Basire. See p. 357, and an account of him in Wood's " Athense 
 Oxonienses." 
 
 $ A Tragi-Comedy by James Shirley. 
 
 " Discourse on Forest- Trees." See preceding page.
 
 1662.] JOHN EVELYN. 37 ]_ 
 
 much state, the Emperor not only having been kind to his 
 Majesty in his distress, but banishing all commerce with 
 our nation during the Rebellion. 
 
 First, the City Companies and Trained Bands were all 
 in their stations : his Majesty's Army and Guards in great 
 order. His Excellency came in a very rich coach, with 
 some of his chief attendants ; many of the rest on horse- 
 back, clad in their vests, after the Eastern manner, rich 
 furs, caps, and carrying the presents, some carrying hawks, 
 furs, teeth, bows, &c. It was a very magnificent show. 
 
 I dined with the Master of the Mint,* where was old 
 Sir Ralph Freeman ; t passing my evening at the Queen- 
 Mother's Court; at night, saw acted "The Committee/' a 
 ridiculous play of Sir R. Howard, where the mimic, Lacy, 
 acted the Irish footman to admiration. 
 
 30th. St. Andrew's day. Invited by the Dean of West- 
 minster { to his consecration-dinner and ceremony, on his 
 being made Bishop of Worcester. Dr. Boltou preached 
 in the Abbey Church ; then followed the consecration by 
 the Bishops of London, Chichester, Winchester, Sali sbury, 
 &c. After this, was one of the most plentiful and magni- 
 ficent dinners that in my life I ever saw; it cost near 600/. 
 as I was informed. Here were the Judges, nobility, clergy, 
 and gentlemen innumerable, this Bishop being universally 
 beloved for his sweet and gentle disposition. He was author 
 of those Characters which go under the name of Blount. 
 He translated his late Majesty's Icon into Latin, was 
 Clerk of his Closet, Chaplain, Dean of Westminster, and 
 yet a most humble, meek, but cheerful man, an excellent 
 scholar, and rare preacher. I had the honour to be loved 
 by him. He married me at Paris, during his Majesty's 
 and the Church's exile. When I took leave of him, he 
 brought me to the cloisters in his episcopal habit. I then 
 went to prayers at Whitehall, where I passed that evening. 
 
 1st December. Having seen the strange and wonderful 
 dexterity of the sliders on the new canal in St. James's 
 Park, performed before their Majesties by divers gentlemen 
 
 * Mr. SJingsby. 
 ) Of Betchworth, in Surrey. 
 
 J Dr. John Earle. Translated afterwards to Salisbury. 
 These Characters were several times printed, and 'are still read with 
 some interest. 
 
 B B 2
 
 372 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 and others with skates, after the manner of the Hollanders, 
 with what swiftness they pass, how suddenly they stop in 
 full career upon the ice ; I went home by water, but not 
 without exceeding difficulty, the Thames being frozen, great 
 flakes of ice encompassing our boat. 
 
 17th. I saw acted before the King " The Law against 
 Lovers." * 
 
 21st. One of his Majesty's chaplains preached; after 
 which, instead of the ancient, grave, and solemn wind 
 music accompanying the organ, was introduced a concert 
 of twenty-four violins between every pause, after the French 
 fantastical light way, better suiting a tavern, or playhouse, 
 than a church. This was the first time of change, and now 
 we no more heard the cornet which gave life to the organ ; 
 that instrument quite left off in which the English were so 
 skilful. I dined at Mr. Povey's, where I talked with Cromer, 
 a great musician. 
 
 23rd. I went with Sir George Tuke, to hear the come- 
 dians con and repeat his new comedy, "The Adventures of 
 Five Hours," a play whose plot was taken out of the famous 
 Spanish poet, Calderon. 
 
 27th. I visited Sir Theophilus Biddulph. 
 
 29th. Saw the audience of the Muscovy Ambassador, 
 which was with extraordinary state, his retinue being 
 numerous, all clad in vests of several colours, with buskins, 
 after the Eastern manner ; their caps of fur ; tunics, richly 
 embroidered with gold and pearls, made a glorious show. 
 The King being seated under a canopy in the Banqueting- 
 house, the Secretary of the Embassy went before the 
 Ambassador in a grave march, holding up his master's 
 letters of credence in a crimson taffeta scarf before his 
 forehead. The Ambassador then delivered it with a pro- 
 found reverence to the King, who gave it to our Secretary 
 of State ; it was written in a long and lofty style. Then 
 came in the presents, borne by 165 of his retinue, consisting 
 of mantles and other large pieces lined with sable, black 
 fox, and ermine; Persian carpets, the ground cloth of gold 
 and velvet ; hawks, such as they said never came the like ; 
 horses said to be Persian ; bows and arrows, &c. These 
 
 * A Tragi-Comedy, by Sir William Davenant, taken almost entirely from 
 Shakspeare's " Measure for Measure," and " Much Ado about Nothing/' 
 blended together.
 
 1663.] JOHN EVELYN. 373 
 
 borne by so long a train rendered it very extraordinary. 
 Wind music played all the while in the galleries above. 
 This finished, the Ambassador was conveyed by the Master 
 of the Ceremonies to York-House, where he was treated 
 with a banquet which cost 200?. as I was assured.* 
 
 1662-3. 7th January. At night, I saw the ball, in which 
 his Majesty danced with several great ladies. 
 
 8th. I went to see my kinsman, Sir George Tuke's, 
 comedy acted at the Duke's theatre, which took so univer- 
 sally, that it was acted for some weeks every day, and it 
 was believed it would be worth to the comedians 40 01. or 
 500/. The plot was incomparable; but the language stiff 
 and formal. 
 
 10th. I saw a ball again at Court, danced by the King, 
 the Duke, and ladies, in great pomp. 
 
 21st. Dined at Mr. Treasurer's of the Household, Sir 
 Charles Berkeley's, where were the Earl of Oxford, Lord 
 Bellassis, Lord Gerard, Sir Andrew Scrope, Sir William 
 Coventry, Dr. Fraser, Mr. Windham, and others. 
 
 5th February. I saw " The Wild Gallant," a comedy ; f 
 and was at the great ball at Court, where his Majesty, the 
 Queen, &c., danced. 
 
 6th. Dined at my Lord Mayor's, Sir John Robinson, 
 Lieutenant of the Tower. 
 
 15th. This night some villains brake into my house and 
 study below, and robbed me to the value of 60/. in plate, 
 money, and goods ; this being the third time I have been 
 thus plundered. 
 
 26th March. I sat at the Commission of Sewers, where 
 
 * " The Czar of Muscovy sent an Ambassador to compliment King Charles 
 II. on his Restoration. The King sent the Earl of Carlisle as his Ambas- 
 sador to Moscow, to desire the re-establishment of the ancient privileges of 
 the English merchants at Archangel, which had been taken away by the Czar, 
 who, abhorring the murder of the King's father, accused them as favourers 
 of it. But, by the means of the Czar's ministers, his Lordship was very ill 
 received, and met with what he deemed affronts, and had no success as to his 
 demands, so that at coming away he refused the presents sent him by the 
 Czar. The Czar sent an Ambassador to England to complain of Lord 
 Carlisle's conduct ; but his Lordship vindicated himself so well, that the King 
 told the Ambassador he saw no reason to condemn his Lordship's conduct." 
 Relation of this Embassy by G. M ., authenticated by Lord Carlisle, printed 
 1669. 
 
 f By Mr. Dryden. It did not succeed on the first representation, but was 
 considerably altered to the form in which it now appears.
 
 374 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 was a great case pleaded by his Majesty's counsel; he, 
 having built a wall over a water-course, denied the juris- 
 diction of the Court. The verdict went for the Plaintiff 
 [i.e. against the King]. 
 
 30th April. Came his Majesty to honour my poor villa 
 with his presence, viewing the gardens and< even every room 
 of the house, and was pleased to take a small refreshment. 
 There were with him the Duke of Richmond, Earl of St. 
 Alban's, Lord Lauderdale, and several persons of quality. 
 
 14th Mar. Dined with my Lord Mordaunt, and thence 
 went to Barnes, to visit my excellent and ingenious friend, 
 Abraham Cowley. 
 
 17th. I saluted the old Bishop of Durham, Dr. Cosin, to 
 whom I had been land, and assisted in his exile ; but which 
 he little remembered in his greatness. 
 
 29th. Dr. Creighton preached his extravagant sermon 
 at St. Margaret's, before the House of C6mmons. 
 
 30th. This morning was passed my lease of Sayes Court 
 from the Crown, for the finishing of Avhich I had been 
 obliged to make such frequent journeys to London. I 
 returned this evening, having seen the Russian Ambassador 
 take leave of their Majesties with great solemnity. 
 
 2nd July. I saw the great Masque at Court, and lay that 
 night at Arundel-house. 
 
 4th. I saw lu's Majesty's Guards, being of horse and foot 
 4000, led by the General, the Duke of Albemarle, in extra- 
 ordinary equipage and gallantry, consisting of gentlemen 
 of quality and veteran soldiers, excellently clad, mounted, 
 and ordered, drawn up in battalia before their Majesties 
 in Hyde Park, where the old Earl of Cleveland trailed a 
 pike, and led the right-hand file in a foot-company, com- 
 manded by the Lord Wentworth, his son; a worthy 
 spectacle and example, being both of them old and valiant 
 soldiers. This was to show the French Ambassador, 
 Monsieur Comminges; there being a great assembly of 
 coaches, &c., in the park. 
 
 7th. Dined at the Comptroller's; after dinner, we met 
 at the Commission about the streets, and to regulate hack- 
 ney-coaches, also to make up our accounts to pass the 
 Exchequer. 
 
 16th. A most extraordinary wet and cold season. 
 
 Sir George Carteret, Treasurer of. the Navy, had now
 
 1663.] JOHN EVELYN. 375 
 
 married his daughter, Caroline, to Sir Thomas Scott, of 
 Scott's-hall, in Kent.* This gentleman was thought to 
 be the son of Prince Rupert. 
 
 2nd August. This evening, I accompanied Mr. Treasurer 
 and Vice-Chamberlain Carteret to his lately married son- 
 in-law^, Sir Thomas Scott, to Scott's-hall. We took barge 
 as far as Gravesend, thence by post to Rochester, whence 
 in coach and six horses to ScottVhall ; a right noble seat, 
 uniformly built, with a handsome gallery. It stands in a 
 park well stored, the land fat and good. We were exceed- 
 ingly feasted by the young knight, and in his pretty chapel 
 heard an excellent sermon by his chaplain. In the after- 
 noon, preached the learned Sir Norton Knatchbull,f (who 
 has a noble seat hard by, and a plantation of stately fir- 
 trees) . In the church-yard of the parish church I measured 
 an over-grown yew-tree, that was eighteen of my paces in 
 compass, out of some branches of which, torn off by the 
 winds, were sawed divers goodly planks. 
 
 10th. We returned by Sir Norton's, whose house is 
 likewise in a park. This gentleman is a worthy person, 
 and learned critic, especially in Greek and Hebrew. Passing 
 by Chatham, we saw his Majesty's Royal Navy, and dined 
 at Commissioner Pett's, J master-builder there, who showed 
 me his study and models, with other curiosities belonging 
 to his art. He is esteemed for the most skilful ship- 
 builder in the world. He hath a pretty garden and 
 banqueting-house, pots, statues, cypresses, resembling some 
 villas about Rome. After a great feast, we rode post to 
 Gravesend, and, sending the coach to London, came by 
 barge home that night. 
 
 18th. To London, to see my Lord Chancellor, where I 
 had discourse with my Lord Archbishop of Canterbury and 
 the Bishop of Winchester, who enjoined me to write to 
 
 * See Hasted's Kent," Vol. III., p. 293. 
 
 f Hasted's " Kent," Vol. II., p. 444. 
 
 J There is a monument for him in Deptford church, with a most pompous 
 inscription : " Q,ui fuit patriao decus, patrise sure magnum munimentum ;" he 
 not only restored our naval affairs, but he invented that excellent and new 
 ornament of the Navy which we call Frigate, formidable to our enemies, to us 
 most useful and safe : he was the Noah of his age, by this invention, like the 
 Ark, having almost snatched our dominion of the seas and our rights from 
 shipwreck.
 
 376 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Dr. Pierce, President of Magdalen College, Oxford, about 
 a letter sent him by Dr. Goff, a Romish Oratorian, con- 
 cerning an answer to Dean Cressy's late book.* 
 
 20th. I dined at the Comptroller's [of the Household] 
 with the Earl of Oxford and Mr. Ashburnham ; it was said 
 it should be the last of the public diets, or tables, at Court, 
 it being determined to put down the old hospitality, at 
 which was great murmuring, considering his Majesty's 
 vast revenue and the plenty of the nation. Hence, I went 
 to sit in a Committee, to consider about the regulation of 
 the Mint at the Tower; in which some small progress 
 was made. 
 
 27th. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's, Secretary to my 
 Lord Treasurer, who showed me the accounts and other 
 private matters relating to the revenue. Thence, to the 
 Commissioners of the Mint, particularly about coinage, 
 and bringing his Majesty's rate from fifteen to ten shillings 
 for every pound weight of gold. 
 
 31st. I was invited to the translation of Dr. Sheldon, 
 Bishop of London, from that see to Canterbury, the cere- 
 mony performed at Lambeth. First, went his Grace's 
 mace-bearer, steward, treasurer, comptroller, all in their 
 gowns, and with white staves ; next, the Bishops in their 
 habits, eight in number; Dr. Sweate, Dean of the Arches, 
 Dr. Exton, Judge of the Admiralty, Sir William Merick, 
 Judge of the Prerogative Court, with divers advocates in 
 scarlet. After divine service in the chapel, performed 
 with music extraordinary, Dr. French and Dr. Stradling 
 (his Grace's chaplains) said prayers. The Archbishop in 
 a private room looking into the chapel, the Bishops who 
 were Commissioners went up to a table placed before the 
 altar, and sat round it in chairs. Then, Dr. Chaworth 
 presented the commission under the broad seal to the 
 Bishop of Winchester, and it was read by Dr. Sweate. 
 
 * Of Dr. Pierce, who was also Dean of Salisbury, Wood gives a very unfa- 
 vourable account in his " Fasti." He appears to have been engaged in dis- 
 putes both in his College and at Salisbury. Dean Cressy was bred hi the 
 Church of England, and was appointed Canon of Windsor and Dean of 
 Leighlin, in Ireland, in the time of King Charles I., but from the troubles of 
 that time, had no benefit from either ; he afterwards became a Papist. The 
 book here referred to is " Exomologetis," or the motives of his conversion. 
 Wood's Fasti.
 
 1663.] JOHN EVELYN. 377 
 
 After which, the Vicar- General went to the vestry, and 
 brought his Grace into the chapel, his other officers march- 
 ing before. He being presented to the Commissioners, 
 was seated in a great arm-chair at one end of the table, 
 when the definitive sentence was read by the Bishop of 
 "Winchester, and subscribed by all the Bishops, and pro- 
 clamation was three times made at the chapel door, which 
 was then set open for any to enter, and give their excep- 
 tions ; if any they had. This done, we all went to dinner 
 in the great hall to a mighty feast. There were present 
 all the nobility in town, the Lord Mayor of London, 
 Sheriffs, Duke of Albemarle, &c. My Lord Archbishop 
 did in particular most civilly welcome me. So going to 
 visit my Lady Needham, who lived at Lambeth, I went 
 over to London. 
 
 10th September. I dined with Mr. Treasurer of the 
 Navy, where, sitting by Mr. Secretary Morice, we had 
 much discourse about books and authors, he being a 
 learned man, and had a good collection. 
 
 2ith October. Mr. Edward Phillips came to be my son's 
 preceptor: this gentleman was nephew to Milton, who 
 wrote against Salmasius's " Defensio ; " but was not at all 
 infected with his principles, though brought up by him.* 
 
 5th November. Dr. South, my Lord Chancellor's chap- 
 lain, preached at Westminster Abbey an excellent discourse 
 concerning obedience to magistrates, against the pontifi- 
 cians and sectaries. I afterwards dined at Sir Philip 
 Warwick's, where was much company. 
 
 6th. To Court, to get Sir John Evelyn of Godstone off 
 from being Sheriff of Surrey, f 
 
 30th. Was the first anniversary of our Society for the 
 choice of new officers, according to the tenour of our patent 
 and institution. It being St. Andrew's day, who was our 
 patron, each fellow wore a St. Andrew's cross of ribbon 
 on the crown of his hat. After the election, we dined 
 together, his Majesty sending us venison. 
 
 16th December. To our Society, where Mr. P. Balle, 
 our Treasurer at the late election, presented the Society 
 
 * The lives of Edward and John Phillips, nephews and pupils of the poet, 
 were published in 1815, by William Godwin, 4to. 
 f In which he succeeded.
 
 378 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 with an iron chest, having three locks, and in it 100Z. 
 as a gift. 
 
 18th. Dined with the gentlemen of his Majesty V bed- 
 chamber at Whitehall. 
 
 1663-4. 2nd January. To Barne Elms, to see Abraham 
 Cowley after his sickness ; and returned that evening to 
 London. ;< 
 
 4th February. Dined at Sir Philip Warwick's ; thence, 
 to Court, where I had discourse with the King about an 
 invention of glass-grenades, and several other subjects.- 
 
 5th. I saw " The Indian Queen " acted, a tragedy well 
 written,* so beautiful with rich scenes as the like had 
 never been seen here, or haply (except rarely) elsewhere 
 on a mercenary theatre. 
 
 16th. I presented my "Sylva" to the Society; and 
 next day to his Majesty, to whom it was dedicated ; also 
 to the Lord Treasurer and the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 24th. My Lord George Berkeley, of Durdans, and Sir 
 Samuel Tuke, came to visit me. We went on board Sir 
 William Pettv^s double-bottomed vessel, and so to London. 
 
 26th. Dined with my Lord Chancellor ; and thence to 
 Court, where I had great thanks for my " Sylva," and 
 long discourse with the King of divers particulars. 
 
 2nd March. Went to London, to distribute some of my 
 books amongst friends. 
 
 4th. Came to dine with me the Earl of Lauderdale, his 
 Majesty's great favourite, and Secretary of Scotland ; the 
 Earl of Teviot ; my Lord Viscount Brouncker, President 
 of the Royal Society ; Dr. Wilkins, Dean of Ripon ; Sir 
 Robert Murray, and Mr. Hooke, Curator to the Society. 
 
 This spring, I planted the Home-field and West-field 
 about Sayes Court with elms, being the same year that the 
 elms were planted by his Majesty in Greenwich Park. 
 
 9th. I went to the Tower, to sit in commission about 
 regulating the Mint ; and now it was that the fine 
 new-milled coin, both of white money and guineas, was 
 established. 
 
 26th. It pleased God to take away my son, Richard, 
 now a month old, yet without any sickness of danger 
 perceivably, being to all appearance a most likely child ; 
 
 * By Sir Robert Howard and Mr. Dryden.
 
 1664.] JOHN EVELYN. 379 
 
 we suspected much the nurse had over-lain him to our 
 extreme sorrow, being now again reduced to one : but 
 God's will be done ! 
 
 29th. After evening prayers, was my child buried near 
 the rest of his brothers my very dear children. 
 
 27th April. Saw a facetious comedy, called " Love in a 
 Tub ; " and supped at Mr. Secretary Bennett's. 
 
 3rd May. Came the Earl of Kent, my kinsman, and his 
 lady, to visit us. 
 
 5th. Went with some company a journey of pleasure 
 on the water, in a barge, with music, and at Mortlake had 
 a great banquet, returning late. The occasion was, Sir 
 Robert Carr now courting Mrs. Bennett, sister to the 
 Secretary of State. 
 
 6th. Went to see Mr. Wright the painter's collection of 
 rare shells, &c. 
 
 8th June. To our Society, to which his Majesty had 
 sent that wonderful horn of the fish which struck a dan- 
 gerous hole in the keel of a ship in the India sea, which, 
 being broken off with the violence of the fish, and left in 
 the timber, preserved it from foundering. 
 
 9th. Sir Samuel Tuke * being this morning married to 
 a lady, kinswoman to my Lord Arundel of Wardour, by 
 the Queen's Lord Almoner, L. Aubigny, in St. James's 
 chapel, solemnized his wedding-night at my house with 
 much company. 
 
 22nd. One Tomson, a Jesuit, showed me such a collection 
 of rarities, sent from the Jesuits of Japan and China to 
 their Order at Paris, as a present to be reserved in their 
 repository, but brought to London by the East India ships 
 for them, as in my life I had not seen. The chief things 
 were, rhinoceros's horns ; glorious vests, wrought and em- 
 broidered on cloth of gold, but with such lively colours, 
 that for splendour and vividness we have nothing in Europe 
 that approaches it ; a girdle studded with agates and rubies 
 of great value and size ; knives, of so keen an edge as one 
 could not touch them, nor was the metal of our colour, 
 but more pale and livid ; fans, like those our ladies use, 
 but much larger, and with long handles curiously carved 
 and filled with Chinese characters : a sort of paper very 
 
 * A Roman Catholic.
 
 380 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 broad, thin, and fine like abortive parchment, and exqui- 
 sitely polished, of an amber yellow, exceeding glorious 
 and pretty to look on, and seeming to be like that which 
 my Lord Verulam describes in his "Nova Atlantis;" 
 several other sorts of paper, some written, others printed ; 
 prints of landscapes, their idols, saints, pagods, of most 
 ugly serpentine monstrous and hideous shapes, to which 
 they paid devotion ; pictures of men and countries, rarely 
 painted on a sort of gummed calico, transparent as glass ; 
 flowers, trees, beasts, birds, &c., excellently wrought in a 
 kind of sleeve silk, very natural; divers drugs that our 
 druggists and physicians could make nothing of, especially 
 one which the Jesuit called Lac Tigridis : it looked like a 
 fungus, but was weighty like metal, yet was a concretion, 
 or coagulation, of some other matter ; several book MSS.; 
 a grammar of the language written in Spanish ; with innu- 
 merable other rarities. 
 
 1st July. Went to see Mr. Povey's * elegant house in 
 Lincoln's-Inn-Fields, where the perspective in his court, 
 painted by Streeter, is indeed excellent, with the vases in 
 imitation of porphyry, and fountains ; the inlaying of his 
 closet; above all, his pretty cellar and ranging of his 
 wine-bottles. 
 
 7th. To Court, where I subscribed to Sir Arthur 
 Slingsby's lottery, a desperate debt owing me long since 
 in Paris. 
 
 14th. I went to take leave of the two Mr. Howards, 
 now going for Paris, and brought them as far as Bromley; 
 thence, to Eltham, to see Sir John Shaw's new house, now 
 building; the place is pleasant, if not too wet, but the 
 house not well contrived, especially the roof and rooms too 
 low pitched, and the kitchen where the cellars should be ; 
 the orangery and aviary handsome, and a very large plan- 
 tation about it. 
 
 19th. To London, to see the event of the lottery which 
 his Majestyhad permitted Sir Arthur Slingsby to set up 
 for one day in the Banqueting-House, at Whitehall; I 
 gaining only a trifle, as well as did the King, Queen- 
 
 * A Mr. Povey, lived at Bellsize House, in Harapstead, in 171 8, who was a 
 coal-merchant, though not trained to the business ; he wrote many books, 
 some discovering indirect practices in the coal-trade, in government-offices, 
 &c. (See under 1676, Feb.) Park's Hist, of Hampstead, p. 156.
 
 1664.] JOHN EVELYN. 381 
 
 Consort, and Queen-Mother, for near thirty lots ; which 
 was thought to be contrived very unhandsomely by the 
 master of it, who was, in truth, a mere shark. 
 
 21st. I dined with my Lord Treasurer at Southampton- 
 House, where his Lordship used me with singular huma- 
 nity. I went in the afternoon to Chelsea, to wait on the 
 Duke of Ormond, and returned to London. 
 
 28th. Came to see me Monsieur Zuylichem, Secretary 
 to the Prince of Orange, an excellent Latin poet, a rare 
 lutinist, with Monsieur Oudart. 
 
 3rd August. To London ; a concert of excellent musi- 
 cians, especially one Mr. Berkenshaw, that rare artist, who 
 invented a mathematical way of composure very extraor- 
 dinary, true as to the exact rules of art, but without much 
 harmony. 
 
 8th. Came the sad and unexpected news of the death of 
 Lady Cotton, wife to my brother, George, a most excellent 
 lady. 
 
 9th. Went with my Brother Richard to Wotton, to visit 
 and comfort my disconsolate brother; and, on the 13th, 
 saw my friend, Mr. Charles Howard, at Dipden, near 
 Dorking. 
 
 16th. I went to see Sir William Ducie's house at Charl- 
 ton, which he purchased of my excellent friend, Sir Henry 
 Newton, now nobly furnished. 
 
 22nd. I went from London to Wotton, to assist at the 
 funeral of my sister-in-law, the Lady Cotton, buried in 
 our dormitory there, she being put up in lead. Dr. Owen 
 made a profitable and pathetic discourse, concluding with 
 an eulogy of that virtuous, pious, and deserving lady. It 
 was a very solemn funeral, with about fifty mourners. I 
 came back next day with my wife to London. 
 
 2nd September. Came Constantine Huygens, Signor de 
 Zuylichem, Sir Robert Morris, Mr. Oudart, Mr. Carew, 
 and other friends, to spend the day with us. 
 
 5th October. To our Society. There was brought a 
 new-invented instrument of music, being a harpsichord 
 with gut-strings, sounding like a concert of viols with an 
 organ, made vocal by a wheel, and a zone of parchment 
 that rubbed horizontally against the strings. 
 
 6th. I heard the anniversary oration in praise of Dr.
 
 382 DIARY OF [OXFORD, 
 
 Harvey, in the Anatomy Theatre in the College of Physi- 
 cians ; after which, I was invited by Dr. Alston, the Pre- 
 sident, to a magnificent feast. 
 
 7th. I dined at Sir Nicholas Strood's, one of the Masters 
 of Chancery, in Great St. Bartholomew's; passing the 
 evening at Whitehall with the Queen, &c. 
 
 8th. Sir William Curtius, his Majesty's Resident in 
 Germany, came to visit me; he was a wise and learned 
 gentleman, and, as he told me, scholar to Henry Alstedius, 
 the Encyclopedist. 
 
 15th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, where was the 
 Duke of Ormond, Earl of Cork, and Bishop of Winchester. 
 After dinner, my Lord Chancellor and his lady carried me 
 in their coach to see their palace* (for he now lived at 
 Worcester-House, in the Strand), building at the upper 
 end of St. James's-street, and to project the garden. In 
 the evening, I presented him with my book on Architec- 
 ture,! as before I had done to his Majesty and the Queen- 
 Mother. His lordship caused me to stay with him in his 
 bed-chamber, discoursing of several matters very late, even 
 till he was going into his bed. 
 
 17th. I went with my Lord Viscount Cornbury to Corn- 
 bury, in Oxfordshire, to assist him in the planting of the 
 park, and bear him company, with Mr. Belin and Mr. May, 
 in a coach with six horses; dined at Uxbridge, lay at 
 Wycombe. 
 
 18th. At Oxford. Went through Woodstock, where we 
 beheld the destruction of that royal seat and park by the 
 late rebels, and arrived that evening at Cornbury, a house 
 lately built by the Earl of Denbigh, in the middle of a 
 sweet park, walled with a dry wall.J The house is of 
 excellent freestone, abounding in that part, (a stone that 
 is fine, but never sweats, or casts any damp) ; it is of ample 
 
 * There is a large view of it engraved. The Chancellor, in the Continuation 
 of his Life, laments the having built it, on account of the great cost, and the 
 unpopularity which its magnificence created. He had little enjoyment of it, 
 as will be seen hereafter. 
 
 f " Parallel between Ancient and Modern Architecture, originally written 
 in French, by Roland Freart, Sieur de Chambray," and translated by Evelyn. 
 See his " Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, pp. 337348. 
 
 J This mansion was some years since the residence of Francis Almeric, 
 created Baron Churchill, brother of George, late Duke of Marlborough. a _
 
 1664.J JOHN EVELYN. . 383 
 
 dimensions, has goodly cellars, the paving of the hall 
 admirable for its close laying. We designed a handsome 
 chapel that was yet wanting : as Mr. May had the stables, 
 which indeed are very fair, having set out the walks in the 
 park and gardens. The lodge is a pretty solitude, and the 
 ponds very convenient ; the park well stored. 
 
 20th. Hence, to see the famous wells, natural and artificial 
 grots and fountains, called Bushell' s Wells, at Enstone.* 
 This Bushell had been secretary to my Lord Verulam. It 
 is an extraordinary solitude. There he had two mummies ; 
 a grot where he lay in a hammock, like an Indian. Hence, 
 we went to Dichley, an ancient seat of the Lees, now Sir 
 Henry Lee's; it is a low ancient timber-house, with a 
 pretty bowling-green. My Lady gave us an extraordinary 
 dinner. This gentleman's mother was Countess of Roches- 
 ter, who was also there, and Sir Walter St. John. There 
 were some pictures of their ancestors, not ill painted ; the 
 great-grand father had been Knight of the Garter : there 
 was the picture of a Pope, and our Saviour's head. So we 
 returned to Cornbury. 
 
 24th. We dined at Sir Timothy TyrilTs, at Shotover. 
 This gentleman married the daughter and heir of Dr. James 
 Usher, Archbishop of Armagh, that learned prelate. There 
 is here in the grove a fountain of the coldest water I ever 
 felt, and very clear. His plantation of oaks and other 
 timber is very commendable. We went in the evening to 
 Oxford, lay at Dr. Hyde's, Principal of Magdalen- Hall, 
 (related to the Lord Chancellor), brother to the Lord 
 Chief-Justice and that Sir Henry Hyde, who lost his head 
 for his loyalty. We were handsomely entertained two 
 days. The Vice-Chancellor, who with Dr. Fell, Dean of 
 Christ Church, the learned Dr. Barlow, Warden of Queen's, 
 and several Heads of houses, came to visit Lord Gorubury 
 (his father being now Chancellor of the University), and 
 next day invited us all to dinner. I went to visit Mr. Boyle 
 (now here), whom I found with Dr. Wallis and Dr. Chris- 
 topher Wren, in the tower of the schools, with an inverted 
 tube, or telescope, observing the discus of the sun for the 
 
 Bushell published a pamphlet respecting his contrivances here ; and, in 
 Plott's Oxfordshire, is an engraving of the rock, the fountains, &c., belonging 
 to it. See an account of him in the History of Surrey, Vol. III., p. 523, and 
 Appendix cxlix.
 
 384 DIARY OF [OXFORD, 
 
 passing of Mercury that day before it ; but the latitude 
 was so great that nothing appeared ; so we went to see the 
 rarities in the Library, where the keepers showed me my 
 name among the benefactors. They have a cabinet of 
 some medals, and pictures of the muscular parts of man's 
 body. Thence, to the new Theatre, now building at an 
 exceeding and royal expense by the Lord Archbishop of 
 Canterbury [Sheldon], to keep the Acts in for the future, 
 till now being in St. Mary's church. The foundation had 
 been newly laid, and the whole designed by that incom- 
 parable genius my worthy friend, Dr. Christopher Wren, 
 who showed me the model, not disdaining my advice in 
 some particulars. Thence, to see the picture on iSie wall 
 over the altar at All Souls, being the largest piece of fresco- 
 painting (or rather in imitation of it, for it is in oil of 
 turpentine) in England, not ill designed by the hand of 
 one Fuller ; yet I fear it will not hold long. It seems too 
 full of nakeds for a chapel. 
 
 Thence, to New College, and the painting of Magdalen 
 chapel, which is on blue cloth in chiar oscuro, by one 
 Greenborow, being a Ccena Domini, and a Last Judgment 
 on the wall by Fuller, as is the other, but somewhat 
 varied. , 
 
 Next to Wadham, and the Physic Garden, where were 
 two large locust-trees, and as many platani (plane-trees), 
 and some rare plants under the culture of old Bobart.* 
 
 26th. We came back to Beaconsfield; next day, to 
 London, where we dined at the Lord Chancellor's, with 
 my Lord Bellasis. 
 
 27th. Being casually in the privy gallery at Whitehall, 
 his Majesty gave me thanks before divers lords and noble- 
 men for my book of Architecture, and again for my 
 " Sylva," saying they were the best designed and useful 
 
 * Jacob Bobart, a German, was appointed the first keeper of the Physic 
 Garden, at Oxford. There is a fine print of him, after Loggan, by Burghers, 
 dated 1675. Also a small whole-length in the frontispiece of Vertumnus, a 
 poem on that garden. In this he is dressed in a long vest, with a beard. 
 One of this family was bred up at college in Oxford ; but quitted his studies 
 for the profession of the Whip, driving one of the Oxford coaches (his own 
 property) for many years with great credit. In 181 3, he broke his leg by an 
 accident ; and, in 1814, from the respect he had acquired by his good con- 
 duct, he was appointed by the University to the place of one of the Esquire 
 Beadles.
 
 16G4.] JOHN EVELYN. 385 
 
 for the matter and subject, the best printed and designed 
 (meaning the taille-douces of the Parallel of Architecture) 
 that he had seen. He then caused me to follow him alone 
 to one of the windows, and asked me if I had any paper 
 about me unwritten, and a crayon ; I presented him with 
 both, and then laying it on the window-stool, he with his 
 own hands designed to me the plot for the future building 
 of Whitehall, together with the rooms of state, and other 
 particulars. After this, he talked with me of several 
 matters, asking my advice, in which I find his Majesty had 
 an extraordinary talent becoming a magnificent prince. 
 
 The same day at Council, there being Commissioners to 
 be made to take care of such sick and wounded and 
 prisoners of war, as might be expected upon occasion of a 
 succeeding war and action at sea, war being already 
 declared against the Hollanders, his Majesty was pleased 
 to nominate me to be one, with three other gentlemen, 
 parliament-men, viz. Sir William Doily, Knt. and Bart., 
 Sir Thomas Clifford,* and Bullein B-heymes, Esq. ; with a 
 salary of 1200/. a year amongst us, besides extraordinaries 
 for our care and attention in time of station, each of us 
 being appointed to a particular district, mine falling out 
 to be Kent and Sussex, with power to constitute officers, 
 physicians, chirurgeons, provost-marshals, and to dispose 
 of half of the hospitals through England. After the 
 council, we kissed his Majesty's hand. At this council, I 
 heard Mr. Solicitor Finch f plead most elegantly for the 
 merchants trading to the Canaries, praying for a new 
 Charter. 
 
 29th. Was the most magnificent triumph by water and 
 land of the Lord Mayor. J I dined at Guildhall at the 
 upper table, placed next to Sir H. Bennett, Secretary of 
 State, opposite to my Lord Chancellor and the Duke of 
 Buckingham, who sate between Monsieur Comminges, the 
 French Ambassador, Lord Treasurer, the Dukes of Ormond 
 and Albemarle, Earl of Manchester, Lord-Chamberlain, 
 and the rest of the great officers of state. My Lord Mayor 
 came twice up to us, first drinking in the golden goblet his 
 
 * Since, Lord Treasurer of England, 
 f Afterwards, Earl of Nottingham, Lord Chancellor. 
 J Sir John Lawrence. The pageant for the day was at the cost of the 
 Haberdashers' Company. 
 
 VOL. I. C C
 
 386 1)1 ARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Majesty's health, then the French King's, as a compliment 
 to the Ambassador ; we returned my Lord Mayor's health, 
 the trumpets and drums sounding. The cheer was not to 
 be imagined for the plenty and rarity, with an infinite 
 number of persons at the rest of the tables in that ample 
 hall. The feast was said to cost 1 OOO/. I slipped away 
 in the crowd, and came home late. 
 
 31st. I was this day 44 years of age; for which I 
 returned thanks to Almighty God, begging His merciful 
 protection for the year to come. 
 
 2nd November. Her Majesty, the Queen-Mother, came 
 across the gallery in Whitehall to give me thanks for my 
 book of Architecture, which I had presented to her, with 
 a compliment that I did by no means deserve. 
 
 16th. We chose our treasurer, clerks, and messengers, 
 and appointed our seal, which I ordered should be the 
 good Samaritan, with this motto, Fac similiter. Painters' 
 Hall was lent us to meet in. In the great room were 
 divers pictures, some reasonably good, that had been given 
 to the Company by several of the wardens and masters of 
 the Company. 
 
 23rd. Our statutes now finished, were read before a full 
 assembly of the Royal Society. 
 
 24th. His Majesty was pleased to tell me what the 
 conference was with the Holland Ambassador, which, as 
 after I found, was the heads of the speech he made at the 
 re-convention of the Parliament, which now began. 
 
 2nd December. We delivered the Privy Council's letters 
 to the Governors of St. Thomas's Hospital, in Southwark, 
 that a moiety of the house should be reserved for such 
 sick and wounded, as should from time to time be sent 
 from the fleet during the war. This being delivered at 
 their Court, the President and several Aldermen, Governors 
 of that Hospital, invited us to a great feast in Fishmongers' 
 Hall. 
 
 20th. To London, onr last sitting, taking order for our 
 personal visiting our several districts. I dined at Captain 
 Cocke's (our Treasurer), with that most ingenious gentle- 
 man, Matthew Wren, son to the Bishop of Ely, and 
 Mr. Joseph Williamson, since Secretary of State.* 
 
 Afterwards, Sir Joseph Williamson, P. R. S., an eminent legislator and 
 still greater statesman. He represented Thetford and Rochester hi several
 
 1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 
 
 22nd. I went to the launching of a new ship of two 
 bottoms, invented by Sir William Petty, on which were 
 various opinions ; his Majesty being present, gave her the 
 name of the Experiment : so I returned home, where I 
 found Sir Humphry Winch, who spent the day with me. 
 
 This year I planted the lower grove next the pond at 
 Sayes Court. It was now exceeding cold, and a hard 
 long frosty season, and the comet was very visible. 
 
 28th. Some of my poor neighbours dined with me, and 
 others of my tenants, according to my annual custom. 
 
 31st. Set my affairs in order, gave God praise for His 
 mercies the past year, and prepared for the reception of 
 the Holy Sacrament, which I partook of the next day, 
 after hearing our minister on the 4th of Galatians, 
 verses 4. 5., of the mystery of our Blessed Saviour's 
 Incarnation. 
 
 1664-5. 2nd January. This day was published by me that 
 part of "The Mystery of Jesuitism"* translated and 
 
 parliaments. A considerable part of his wealth was expended in useful "cha- 
 rities, or in promoting learning ; and the places for which he had been 
 member received much of his bounty. At his death, he left 6,000?. to 
 Queen's College, Oxford, where he was educated, and at Rochester he 
 founded & mathematical school, in which Garrick was placed under the first 
 master, Mr. John Colson, afterwards mathematical professor at Cambridge. 
 A whole-length portrait in oil of this benevolent character is still hanging in 
 the Town-hall, at Rochester. 
 
 * In a letter to Lord Cornbury, 2 Jan., 1664, Mr. Evelyn says, " I came to 
 present your Lordship with your own book [in the margin is written, ' The 
 other part of the Mystery of Jesuitism translated and published by me'] : I 
 left it with my Lord your father, because I would not suifer it to be public 
 till he had first seen it, who, on your Lordship's score, has so just a title to it. 
 The particulars, which you will find added after the 4th letter, are extracted 
 out of several curious papers and passages lying by me, which for being very 
 apposite to the controversy, I thought fit to annex, in danger otherwise to 
 have never been produced." In another letter to Lord Cornbury, 9 Feb., 
 1664, Mr. Evelyn says he undertook the translation by command of his Lord- 
 ship, and of his father, the Lord Chancellor. 
 
 The authors of the "Biographia Britannica" speak of " The Mystery of 
 Jesuitism " as one volume ; but in the library at Wotton there are three^in 
 duodecimo, with the following titles and contents : the second in order is that 
 translated by Mr. Evelyn. 
 
 1. Les Provinciales, or, the Mystery of Jesuitism, discovered in certain 
 lettersjwritten upon occasion of the present difference at Sorbonne between 
 the Jansenists and the Molinists, displaying the pernicious Maxims of the 
 late Casuists. The second edition corrected, with large additiouals. Sicut 
 
 C C 2
 
 388 DIARY OF [DOVER, 
 
 collected by me, though without my name, containing the 
 Imaginary Heresy, with four letters and other pieces. 
 
 4th. I went in a coach, it being excessive sharp frost 
 and snow, towards Dover and other parts of Kent, to settle 
 physicians, chirurgeons, agents, marshals, and other officers 
 in all the sea-ports, to take care of such as should be set 
 on shore, wounded, sick, or prisoners, in pursuance of our 
 commission reaching from the North Foreland, in Kent, 
 to Portsmouth, in Hampshire. The rest of the ports in 
 England were allotted to the other Commissioners. That 
 evening, I came to Rochester, where I delivered the Privy 
 Council's letter to the Mayor to receive orders from me. 
 
 5th. I arrived at Canterbury, and went to the cathedral, 
 exceedingly well repaired since his Majesty's return. 
 
 6th. To Dover, where Colonel Stroode, Lieutenant of the 
 Castle, having received the letter I brought him from the 
 Duke of Albemarle, made me lodge in it, and I was 
 splendidly treated, assisting me from place to place. Here 
 I settled my first Deputy. The Mayor and officers of the 
 Customs were very civil to me. 
 
 9th. To Deal. 10th. To Sandwich, a pretty town, about 
 two miles from the sea. The Mayor and officers of the 
 Customs were very diligent to serve me. I visited the forts 
 in the way, and returned that night to Canterbury. 
 
 Serpentes. London : Printed for Richard Royston, and are to be sold by 
 Robert Clave at the Stag's Head near St. Gregorie's church in St. Paul's 
 
 Church-yard, 1658 pp. 360. Additionals, pp. 147. At the end are the 
 
 names of some of the most eminent Casuists. 
 
 2. Mixrrijpioj' -rrjs 'Avofj.las. That is, Another Part of the Mystery of 
 Jesuitism ;or, the new Heresy of the Jesuits, publicly maintained at Paris, in 
 the College of Clermont, the xii of December MDCLXI. declared to all the 
 Bishops of France. According to the copy printed at Paris. Together with 
 the Imaginary Heresy, in three Letters, with divers other particulars relating 
 to the abominable Mystery. Never before published in English. London : 
 Printed by James Flesher, for Richard Royston, bookseller to his most sacred 
 Majesty, 1664. 3 letters, pp. 206. Copy of a Letter from the Reverend 
 Father Valerian, a Capuchin, to Pope Alexander 7th, pp. 207239. The 
 sense of the French Church, pp. 240254. 
 
 3. The Moral Practice of the Jesuits demonstrated by many remarkable 
 histories of their actions in all parts of the world. Collected either from 
 books of the greatest authority, or most certain and unquestionable records 
 and memorials. By the Doctors of the Sorbonne. Faithfully translated into 
 English (by Dr. Tongue; see hereafter, under 1678, Oct. 1). London: 
 Printed for Simon Miller, at the Star at the west end of St. Paul's, 1670. 
 See Evelyn's Miscellaneous Writings," 4to, 1825, p. 499.
 
 1C65.] JOHN EVELYN. 389 
 
 llth. To Rochester, when I took order to settle officers 
 at Chatham. 
 
 1 2th. To Gravesend, and returned home. A cold, busy, 
 but not unpleasant journey. 
 
 25th. This night being at Whitehall, his Majesty came 
 to me standing in the withdrawing-room, and gave me 
 thanks for publishing " The Mystery of Jesuitism," which 
 he said he had carried two days in his pocket, read it, and 
 encouraged me; at which I did not a little wonder; I 
 suppose Sir Robert Murray had given it to him. 
 
 27th. Dined at the Lord Chancellor's, who caused me 
 after dinner to sit two or three hours alone with him in his 
 bedchamber. 
 
 2nd February. I saw a Masque performed at Court, by 
 six gentlemen and six ladies, surprising his Majesty, it 
 being Candlemas-day. 
 
 8th. Ash- Wednesday. I visited our prisoners at Chelsea 
 College, and to examine how the marshal and sutlers 
 behaved. These were prisoners taken in the war; they 
 only complained that their bread was too fine. I dined at 
 Sir Henry Herbert's, Master of the Revels. 
 
 9th. Dined at my Lord Treasurer's, the Earl of South- 
 ampton, in Bloomsbury, where he was building a noble 
 square, or piazza, * a little town ; his own house stands too 
 low, some noble rooms, a pretty cedar chapel, a naked 
 garden to the north, but good air.f I had much discourse 
 with his lordship, whom I found to be a person of extraor- 
 dinary parts, but a valetudinarian. I went to St. James's 
 Park, where I saw various animals, and examined the 
 throat of the Onocrotylus, or pelican, a fowl between a 
 stork and a swan ; a melancholy water-fowl, brought from 
 Astracan by the Russian Ambassador ; it was diverting to 
 see how he would toss up and turn a flat fish, plaice, or 
 flounder, to get it right into his gullet at its lower beak 
 which, being filmy, stretches to a prodigious wideness, when 
 it devours a great fish. Here was also a small water-fowl, 
 
 * The Italians do not mean what we do by piazza ; they only mean a 
 square. 
 
 J- Afterwards, it was called Bedford-House, being the town residence for 
 many years of the Russell family, but was pulled down in 1 800 ; and, on the 
 site and the adjoining fields, were erected many handsome houses, now called 
 Russell-Square, Bedford Place, Russell Place, &c.
 
 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 not bigger than a moorhen, that went almost quite erect,like 
 the penguin of America; it would eat as much fish as its 
 whole body weighed ; I never saw so unsatiable a devourer, 
 yet the body did not appear to swell the bigger. The 
 Solan geese here are also great devourers, and are said soon 
 to exhaust all the fish in a pond. Here was a curious sort 
 of poultry not much exceeding the size of a tame pigeon, 
 with legs so short as their crops seemed to touch the 
 earth ; a milk-white raven ; a stork, which was a rarity at 
 this season, seeing he was loose, and could fly loftily ; two 
 Balearian cranes, one of which having had one of his legs 
 broken and cut off above the knee, had a wooden or boxen 
 leg and thigh, with a joint so accurately made that the 
 creature could walk and use it as well as if it had been 
 natural ; it was made by a soldier. The park was at this 
 time stored with numerous flocks of several sorts of ordinary 
 and extraordinary wild fowl, breeding about the Decoy, 
 which for being near so great a city, and among such a con- 
 course of soldiers and people, is a singular and diverting 
 thing. There were also deer of several countries, white ; 
 spotted like leopards ; antelopes, an elk, red deer, roe- 
 bucks, stags, Guinea goats, Arabian sheep, &c. There were 
 withy-pots, or nests, for the wild fowl to lay their eggs in, 
 a little above the surface of the water. 
 
 23rd. I was invited to a great feast at Mr. Rich's (a 
 relation of my Wife's, now Reader at Lincoln's Inn) ; 
 where was the Duke of Monmouth, the Archbishop of 
 Canterbury, Bishops of London and Winchester, the 
 Speaker of the House of Commons, divers of the Judges, 
 and several other great men. 
 
 24th. Dr. Fell, Canon of Christ Church, preached 
 before the King, on 15 ch. Romans, v. 2, a very formal 
 discourse, and in blank verse, according to his manner ; 
 however, he is a good man. Mr. Phillips, preceptor to my 
 son, went to be with the Earl of Pembroke's son, my Lord 
 Herbert. 
 
 2nd March. I went with his Majesty into the lobby 
 behind the House of Lords, where I saw the King and 
 the rest of the Lords robe themselves, and got into the 
 House of Lords in a corner near the woolsack, on which 
 the Lord Chancellor sits next below the throne : the King 
 sate in all the regalia, the crown- imperial on his head, the
 
 1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 391 
 
 sceptre and globe, &c. The Duke of Albemarle bare the 
 sword, the Duke of Ormond, the cap of dignity. The 
 rest of the Lords robed and in their places : a most 
 splendid and august convention. Then came the Speaker 
 and the House of Commons, and at the bar made a speech, 
 and afterwards presented several bills, a nod only passing 
 them, the clerk saying, Le Roy le veult, as to public bills ; 
 as to private, Soit faite comme il est desire. Then, his 
 Majesty made a handsome but short speech, commanding 
 my Lord Privy Seal to prorogue the Parliament, which he 
 did, the Chancellor being ill and absent. I had not 
 before seen this ceremony. 
 
 9th. I went to receive the poor creatures that were 
 saved out of the London frigate, blown up by accident- 
 with above 200 men. 
 
 29th. "Went to Goring House,* now Mr. Secretary 
 Bennett's, ill built, but the place capable of being made a 
 pretty villa. His Majesty was now finishing the Decoy in 
 the Park. 
 
 2nd April. Took order about some prisoners sent from 
 Captain Allen's ship, taken in the Solomon, viz., the brave 
 men who defended her so gallantly. 
 
 5th. Was a day of public humiliation and for success of 
 this terrible war, begun doubtless at secret instigation of 
 the French to weaken the States and Protestant interest. 
 Prodigious preparations on both sides. 
 
 6th. In the afternoon, I saw acted "Mustapha," a 
 tragedy written by the Earl of Orrery. 
 
 llth. To London, being now left the only Commissioner 
 to take all necessary orders how to exchange, remove, and 
 keep prisoners, dispose of hospitals, &c. ; the rest of the 
 Commissioners being gone to their several districts, in 
 expectation of a sudden engagement. 
 
 19th. Invited to a great dinner at the Trinity House, 
 where I had business with the Commissioners of the Navy, 
 and to receive the second 500 OZ. impressed for the service 
 of the sick and wounded prisoners. 
 
 20th. To Whitehall to the King, who called me into 
 his bed-chamber as he was dressing, to whom I showed 
 
 On the site whereof Buckingham Palace is now built. There is a small 
 print of this house.
 
 892 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 the letter written to me from the Duke of York from the 
 fleet, giving me notice of young Evertzen, and some con- 
 siderable commanders newly taken in fight with the Dart- 
 mouth and Diamond frigates,* whom he had sent me as 
 prisoners at war; I went to know of his Majesty how he 
 would have me treat them, when he commanded me to 
 bring the young captain to him, and to take the word of 
 the Dutch Ambassador (who yet remained here) for the 
 other, that he should render himself to me whenever I 
 called on him, and not stir without leave. Upon which, 
 I desired more guards, the prison being Chelsea House. 
 
 * In the publication of the Life of King James II. from his own papers 
 (printed 1816) after describing the engagement with the Dutch fleet in 1665, 
 he says, " Soon after this, three Dutch men-of-war, which had been seen for 
 some time to the windward of us, and were looking out for their own fleet, 
 bore down in order to join it. One of them was a great ship of above 80 
 guns, which for want of some repairs had been left by Cornelius Evertzento 
 his son, with orders to follow ; the other two were not of the same force. 
 These being to windward, endeavoured to join the head of their fleet, and 
 young Evertzen, being a mettled man, and having a mind to distinguish him- 
 self, resolved to run on board of the Plymouth, hoping to bear her down ; but 
 Sir Thomas Allen, perceiving by Evertzen's working what his design was, 
 brought his ship to at once, so that Evertzen missed his aim, though he came 
 so near it that the yard-arms of both ships touched, and they gave each other 
 a severe broadside in passing ; after which, Evertzen and the other two made 
 a shift to join their own fleet, and Sir Thomas Allen continued leading as 
 before, till finding himself extremely disabled, he was forced to lie by." P. 
 410. " After this engagement was over, and the Dutch had retired to their 
 own ports, the Duke of York had brought back the English fleet to the Nore, 
 he took care to have his scouts abroad, two of which, the Diamond, Captain 
 Golding, and the Yarmouth, Captain Aylifle, being sent to observe the 
 motions of the Dutch, they happened to meet with two of the direction-ships 
 (as the Dutch call them) of 40 odd guns each ; the biggest was commanded 
 by one Masters, the other by young Cornelius Evertzen who, though ours 
 were of somewhat better force, did not avoid engaging. At the first broad- 
 side, Golding was slain ; but his Lieutenant, Davis, managed the fight so well, 
 as did the captain of the Yarmouth, that after some hours' dispute, both the 
 Dutch ships were taken, though bravely defended, for they lost many men, 
 and were very much disabled, before they struck. The Duke gave young 
 Evertzen his liberty,f in consideration of his father, Cornelius, who had per- 
 formed several services for the King before his Restoration ; and his 
 R. H. freed also the other captain for having defended himself so well,"and 
 made Lieutenant Davis captain of one of those prizes." P. 419. 
 
 t i. e. he recommended it to the King to do so ; for we see he was sent to 
 London, and presented to the King by Mr. Evelyn.
 
 1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 393 
 
 I went also to Lord Arlington (the Secretary Bennett lately 
 made a Lord) about other business. Dined at my Lord 
 Chancellor's; none with him but Sir Sackville Crowe, 
 formerly Ambassador at Constantinople ; we were very 
 cheerful and merry. 
 
 24th. I presented young Captain Evertzen (eldest son 
 of Cornelius, Vice- Admiral of Zealand, and nephew of 
 John, now Admiral, a most valiant person) to his Majesty 
 in his bedchamber. The King gave him his hand to kiss, 
 and restored him his liberty ; asked many questions con- 
 cerning the fight (it being the first blood drawn), his 
 Majesty remembering the many civilities he had formerly 
 received from his relations abroad, who had now so much 
 interest in that considerable Province. Then, I was com- 
 manded to go with him to the Holland Ambassador, 
 where he was to stay for his passport, and I was to give 
 him fifty pieces in broad gold. Next day, I had the Am- 
 bassador's parole for the other Captain, taken in Captain 
 Allen's fight before Calais. I gave the King an account 
 of what I had done, and afterwards asked the same favour 
 for another Captain, which his Majesty gave me. 
 
 28th. I went to Tunbridge, to see a solemn exercise at 
 the free-school there.* 
 
 Having taken orders with my marshal about my pri- 
 soners, and with the doctor and chirurgeon to attend the 
 wounded enemies, and of our own men, I went to London 
 again and visited my charge, several with legs and arms 
 off; miserable objects, God knows ! 
 
 16th May. To London, to consider of the poor orphans 
 and widows made by this bloody beginning, and whose 
 husbands and relations perished in the London frigate, of 
 which there were fifty widows, and forty-five of them with 
 child. 
 
 26th. To treat with the Holland Ambassador at Chelsea, 
 for release of divers prisoners of war in Holland on 
 exchange here. After dinner, being called into the Council- 
 
 There is an annual visitation of the Skinners' Company of London, who 
 are the patrons, at which verses, themes, &c. are spoken before them by the 
 senior scholars. The Rev. Vicesimus Knox (D. D. by an American Uni- 
 versity), author of many works, some of which have gone through many 
 editions, was master from about 1779 to 181 2, when he resigned in favour of 
 his son, the Rev. Thomas Knox.
 
 394 DIARY OF [LONDON, 
 
 Chamber at Whitehall, I gave his Majesty an account 
 of what I had done, informing him of the vast charge 
 upon us, now amounting to no less than 1000/. weekly. 
 
 29th. I went with my little boy to my district in Kent, 
 to make up accounts with my officers. Visited the 
 Governor at Dover Castle, where were some of my pri- 
 soners. 
 
 3rd June. In my return, went to Gravesend ; the fleets 
 being just now engaged, gave special orders for my officers 
 to be ready to receive the wounded and prisoners. 
 
 5th. To London, to speak with his Majesty and the 
 Duke of Albemarle for horse and foot guards for the pri- 
 soners at war, committed more particularly to my charge 
 by a commission apart. 
 
 8th. I went again to his Grace, thence to the Council, 
 and moved for another privy seal for 20,000/., and that I 
 might have the disposal of the Savoy Hospital for the 
 sick and wounded ; all which was granted. Hence to the 
 Royal Society, to refresh among the philosophers. 
 
 Came news of his Highnesses victory, which indeed 
 might have been a complete one, and at once ended the 
 war, had it been pursued, but the cowardice of some, or 
 treachery, or both, frustrated that. We had, however, 
 bonfires, bells, and rejoicing in the city. ISext day, the 
 9th, I had instant orders to repair to the Downs, so as I 
 got to Rochester this evening. Next day, I lay at Deal, 
 where I found all in readiness ; but, the fleet being 
 hindered by contrary winds, I came away on the 12th, 
 and went to Dover, and returned to Deal; and, on the 
 13th, hearing the fleet was at Solbay, I went homeward, 
 and lay at Chatham, and, on the 14th, I got home. On 
 the 15th, came the eldest son of the present Secretary of 
 State to the French King, with much other company, to 
 dine with me. After dinner, I went with him to London, 
 to speak to my Lord General for more guards, and gave 
 his Majesty an account of my journey to the coasts under 
 my inspection. I also waited on his Royal Highness, now 
 come triumphant from the fleet, gotten into repair. See 
 the whole history of this conflict in my " History of the 
 Dutch War." * 
 
 20th. To London, and represented the state of the sick 
 
 See likewise Pepys' Diary, edited by Lord Braybrooke.
 
 1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 395 
 
 and wounded to his Majesty in Council, for want of 
 money ; he ordered I should apply to my Lord Treasurer 
 and Chancellor of the Exchequer, upon what funds to raise 
 the money promised. We also presented to his Majesty 
 divers expedients for retrenchment of the charge. 
 
 This evening making my court to the Duke, I spake to 
 Monsieur Comminges, the French Ambassador, and his 
 Highness granted me six prisoners, Embdeners, who were 
 desirous to go to the Barbadoes with a merchant. 
 
 22nd. We waited on the Chancellor of the Exchequer, 
 and got an Order of Council for our money to be paid to 
 the Treasurer of the Navy for our Receivers. 
 
 23rd. I dined with Sir Robert Paston, since Earl of 
 Yarmouth, and saw the Duke of Verneuille, base brother 
 to the Queen-Mother, a handsome old man, a great hunter. 
 
 The Duke of York told us that, when we were in fight, 
 his dog sought out absolutely the very securest place in all 
 the vessel. In the afternoon, I saw the pompous recep- 
 tion and audience of El Conde de Molino, the Spanish 
 Ambassador, in the Banqueting-house, both their Majesties 
 sitting together under the canopy of state. 
 
 30th. To Chatham ; and, 1st July, to the fleet with Lord 
 Sandwich, now Admiral, with whom I went in a pinnace 
 to the Buoy of the Nore, where the whole fleet rode at 
 anchor ; went on board the Prince, of ninety brass ord- 
 nance, haply the best ship in the world both for building 
 and sailing; she had 700 men. They made a great huzza, 
 or shout, at our approach, three times. Here we dined 
 with many noblemen, gentlemen, and volunteers, served 
 in plate and excellent meat of all sorts. After dinner, 
 came his Majesty, the Duke, and Prince Rupert. Here I 
 saw the King knight Captain Custance for behaving so 
 bravely in the late fight. It was surprising to behold the 
 good order, decency, and plenty of all things in a vessel 
 so full of men. The ship received a hundred cannon shot 
 in her body. Then I went on board the Charles, to which, 
 after a gun was shot off, came all the flag-ofiicers to his 
 Majesty, who there held a General Council, which deter- 
 mined that his Royal Highness should adventure himself 
 no more this summer. I came away late, having seen the 
 most glorious fleet that ever spread sails. We returned 
 in his Majesty's yacht with my Lord Sandwich and
 
 396 DIARY OP [LONDON, 
 
 Mr. Vice-Chamberlain, landing at Chatham on Sunday 
 morning. 
 
 5th July. I took order for 150 men, who had been 
 recovered of their wounds, to be carried on board the 
 Clove Tree, Carolus Quintus, and Zealand, ships that had 
 been taken by us in the fight ; and so returned home. 
 
 7th. To London, to Sir William Coventry ; and so to 
 Sion, where his Majesty sat at Council during the contagion; 
 when business was over, I viewed that seat belonging to 
 the Earl of Northumberland, built out of an old nunnery, 
 of stone, and fair enough, but more celebrated for the 
 garden than it deserves : yet there is excellent wall-fruit, 
 and a pretty fountain ; nothing else extraordinary. 
 
 9th. I went to Hampton-Court, where now the whole 
 Court was, to solicit for money ; to carry intercepted 
 letters; confer again with Sir William Coventry, the 
 Duke's secretary; and so home, having dined with Mr. 
 Secretary Morice. 
 
 16th. There died of the plague in London this week 
 1100; and, in the week following, above 2000. Two houses 
 were shut up in our parish. 
 
 2nd August. A solemn Fast through England to de- 
 precate God's displeasure against the land by pestilence 
 and war; our Doctor preaching on 26 Levit. v. 41, 42, 
 that the means to obtain remission of punishment was not 
 to repine at it ; but humbly to submit to it. 
 
 3rd. Came his Grace the Duke of Albemarle, Lord 
 General of all his Majesty's Forces, to visit me, and 
 carried me to dine with him. 
 
 4th. I went to Wotton with my Son and his tutor, 
 Mr. Bohun, Fellow of New College (recommended to me 
 by Dr. Wilkins, and the President of New College, 
 Oxford), for fear of the pestilence, still increasing in Lon- 
 don and its environs. On my return, I called at Durdans, 
 where I found Dr. Wilkins, Sir William Petty, and Mr. 
 Hooke, contriving chariots, new rigging for ships, a wheel 
 for one to run races in, and other mechanical inventions ; 
 perhaps three such persons together were not to be found 
 elsewhere in Europe for parts and ingenuity. 
 
 8th. I waited on the Duke of Albemarle, who was re- 
 solved to stay at the Cock-pit, in St. James's Park. Died 
 this week in London 4000.
 
 1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 397 
 
 15th. There perished this week 5000. 
 
 28th. The contagion still increasing, and growing now 
 all about us, I sent my Wife and whole family (two or 
 three necessary servants excepted) to my brother's at 
 Wotton, being resolved to stay at my house myself, and 
 to look after my charge, trusting in the providence and 
 goodness of God. 
 
 5th September. To Chatham, to inspect my charge, with 
 900/. in my coach. 
 
 7th. Came home, there perishing near 10,000 poor 
 creatures weekly ; however, I went all along the city and 
 suburbs from Kent Street to St. James's, a dismal pas- 
 sage, and dangerous to see so many coffins exposed in the 
 streets, now thin of people ; the shops shut up, and all in 
 mournful silence, not knowing whose turn might be next. 
 I went to the Duke of Albemarle for a pest-ship, to wait on 
 our infected men, who were not a few. 
 
 14th. I went to Wotton ; and, on 16th September, to 
 visit old Secretary Nicholas, being now at his new pur- 
 chase of West Horsley, once mortgaged to me by Lord 
 Viscount Montague : a pretty dry seat on the Down. 
 Returned to Wotton. 
 
 17th. Receiving a letter from Lord Sandwich of a de- 
 feat given to the Dutch, I was forced to travel all Sunday. 
 I was exceedingly perplexed to find that near 3000 priso- 
 ners were sent to me to dispose of, being more than I had 
 places fit to receive and guard. 
 
 25th. My Lord-Admiral being come from the fleet to 
 Greenwich, I went thence with him to the Cock-pit, to 
 consult with the Duke of Albemarle. I was peremptory 
 that, unless we had 10,000/. immediately, the prisoners 
 would starve, and it was proposed it should be raised out 
 of the East India prizes now taken by Lord Sandwich. 
 They being but two of the commission, and so not em- 
 powered to determine, sent an express to his Majesty and 
 Council, to know what they should do. In the meantime, 
 I had five vessels, with competent guards, to keep the pri- 
 soners in for the present, to be placed as I should think best. 
 After dinner (which was at the General's) I went over to 
 visit his Grace the Archbishop of Canterbury, at Lambeth. 
 
 28th. To the General again, to acquaint him of the
 
 398 DIARY OP [GRAVESEND, 
 
 deplorable state of our men for want of provisions : 
 returned with orders. 
 
 29th. To Erith, to quicken the sale of the prizes lying 
 there, with order to the commissioner who lay on board till 
 they should be disposed of, 5000/. being proportioned for 
 my quarter. Then I delivered the Dutch Vice-Admiral, 
 
 who was my prisoner, to Mr. Lo * of the Marshalsea, he 
 
 giving me bond in 500/. to produce him at my call. I 
 exceedingly pitied this brave unhappy person, who had 
 lost with these prizes 40,OOOJ. after 20 years' negotiation 
 [trading] in the East Indies. I dined in one of these 
 vessels, of 1200 tons, full of riches. 
 
 1st October. This afternoon, whilst at evening prayers, 
 tidings were brought me of the birth of a Daughter at 
 Wotton, after six Sons, in the same chamber I had first 
 took breath in, and at the first day of that month, as I 
 was on the last, 45 years before. 
 
 4th. The monthly Fast. 
 
 llth. To London, and went through the whole City, 
 having occasion to alight out of the coach in several places 
 about business of money, when I was environed with mul- 
 titudes of poor pestiferous creatures begging alms : the 
 shops universally shut up, a dreadful prospect ! I dined 
 with my Lord General; was to receive 10,0007., and had 
 guards to convey both myself and it, and so returned 
 home, through God's infinite mercy. 
 
 17th. I went to Gravesend; next day to Chatham ; thence, 
 to Maidstone, in order to the march of 500 prisoners to 
 Leeds Castle, which I had hired of Lord Culpeper. I was 
 earnestly desired by the learned Sir Roger Twisden, and 
 Deputy-Lieutenants, to spare Maidstone from quartering 
 any of my sick flock. Here, Sir Edward Brett sent me 
 some horse to bring up the rear. This country, from 
 Rochester to Maidstone and the Downs, is very agreeable 
 for the prospect. 
 
 21st. I came from Gravesend, where Sir J. Griffith, the 
 Governor of the Fort, entertained me very handsomely. 
 
 81st. I was this day 45 years of age, wonderfully pre- 
 served ; for which I blessed God for His infinite goodness 
 towards me. 
 
 * Mr. Lowman.
 
 1665.] JOHN EVELYN. 399 
 
 23rd November. Went home, the contagion having now 
 decreased considerably. 
 
 27th. The Duke of Albemarle was going to Oxford, 
 where both Court and Parliament had been most part of 
 the summer. There was no small suspicion of my Lord 
 Sandwich having permitted divers commanders, who were 
 at the taking of the East India prizes, to break bulk, and 
 take to themselves jewels, silks, &c. : though I believe 
 some whom I could name filled their pockets, my Lord 
 Sandwich himself had the least share. However, he un- 
 derwent the blame, and it created him enemies, and pre- 
 possessed the Lord General, for he spake to me of it with 
 much zeal and concern, and I believe laid load enough on 
 Lord Sandwich at Oxford. 
 
 8th December. To my Lord of Albemarle (now returned 
 from Oxford), who was declared General at Sea, to the no 
 small mortification of that excellent person the Earl of 
 Sandwich, whom the Duke of Albemarle not only sus- 
 pected faulty about the prizes, but less valiant ; himself 
 imagining how easy a thing it were to confound the Hol- 
 landers, as well now as heretofore he fought against them 
 upon a more disloyal interest. 
 
 25th. Kept Christmas with my hospitable Brother, at 
 Wotton. 
 
 30th. To Woodcot, where I supped at my Lady Mor- 
 daunt's at Ashted, where was a room hung with pintado, 
 full of figures great and small, prettily representing sundry 
 trades and occupations of the Indians, with their habits ; 
 here supped also Dr. Duke, a learned and facetious gen- 
 tleman. 
 
 31st. Now blessed be God for His extraordinary mercies 
 and preservation of me this year, when thousands, and 
 ten thousands, perished, and were swept away on each 
 side of me, there dying in our parish this year 406 of the 
 pestilence !
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 Page 4, line 2 from bottom. " The Bohemians 1 defection from the 
 Emperor Matthias." 
 
 Evelyn alludes to the insurrection of the Bohemians on the 12th of May, 
 1618. The Emperor died soon after, and the revolted Bohemians offered 
 the crown to the Elector Palatine Frederic, who had married Elizabeth, 
 daughter of James I. ; whereupon there was great excitement throughout 
 England, in consequence of the backwardness of the king to assist his son-in- 
 law in the struggle for a kingdom, for which the people willingly, as Evelyn 
 in a subsequent page informs us, made " large contributions." This is the 
 " talk and stir" to which Evelyn has just alluded in connection with Count 
 Gondomar, whose influence had been used with James to withdraw him from 
 the Protestant cause. 
 
 Page 6, line 13. " The Lord of Castlehaven." 
 
 Mervyn Touchet, second Earl of Castlehaven ; convicted by a court of 
 twenty-seven lords, with the Lord Keeper, sitting in Westminster Hall, of 
 crimes of the grossest description ; and in pursuance of their sentence, 
 executed on Tower Hill, May 14, 1631. 
 
 Page 7, line 12. " My Lord of Lindsey, then Admiral." 
 
 Robert Bertie, tenth Baron Willoughby d'Eresby, subsequently created 
 Earl of Lindsey, a Knight of the Garter. He was at different times Lord 
 High Chamberlain, Lord High Admiral, Constable of England, and Governor 
 of Berwick ; and was general of the king's forces at the breaking out of 
 the Civil War. He was in command at the Battle of Edgehill, in 1642 ; but, 
 opposing Prince Rupert's pretensions, he surrendered a responsibility which 
 the weakness of Charles would have had him divide with a " boy," put himself 
 at the head of his regiment, fought with heroic gallantry, and fell covered with 
 wounds. 
 
 Page 10. 
 
 Evelyn should have said u till twenty years after," not thirty. Coffee was 
 introduced into England, and coffee-houses set up in 1658. 
 
 Page 15. Vanderborcht" and " Hollar." 
 
 Henry Vanderborcht, a painter, of Brussels, lived at Frankendale. Lord 
 Arundel, finding his son Henry at Frankfort, sent him to Mr. Petty, then 
 collecting for him in Italy, and afterwards kept him in his service as long as 
 he lived. Vauderborcht, the younger, was both painter and engraver; he drew
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 401 
 
 many of the Arundelian curiosities, and etched several things, both in that 
 and the Royal Collection. A book of his drawings from the former, con- 
 taining 567 pieces, is preserved at Paris ; and is described in the catalogue 
 of L'Orangerie, p. 199. After the death of the Earl, the younger Henry 
 entered into the service of the Prince of Wales, afterwards Charles II., and 
 lived in esteem in London for a considerable time ; but returned to Ant- 
 werp, and died there. See Horace Walpole's Anecdotes of Painting. Win- 
 ceslaus Hollar was born at Prague, in Bohemia, in the year 1 607, and came 
 to England in the suite of the Earl of Arundel, in the year 1 636. In the 
 troubles he distinguished himself as a Royalist, for which he was imprisoned 
 by the Parliament. He escaped to the continent, but returned at the 
 Restoration, and died in great distress, March 28th, 1677. 
 
 Paye 15. Entries of 25th and 27th April, and 12th of May. 
 
 The reader may here remark the circumstance, that between the entries 
 which relate to Lord Strafford, the young Prince of Orange came over to 
 make love to the Princess Royal, then twelve years old ; and that the 
 marriage was subsequently celebrated amid extraordinary Court rejoicings 
 and festivities, in which the King took a prominent part, in the short interval 
 which elapsed between the sentence and execution of the King's great and 
 unfortunate minister. It may not be out of place here to indicate the more 
 important passages printed for the first time in the present edition of the 
 Diary) the minor alterations need not be pointed out), and which occur chiefly 
 in the commencing forty pages. They will be found at pp. 1, 3, 4, 5, 10, 1 1 , 
 12, ] 5, 16, 17, 18, 20, 21, 27, and 29. 
 
 Page 18. " Queen of Bohemia's Court." 
 
 Elizabeth, daughter of James I , mother of the Princes Maurice and 
 Rupert ; her youngest daughter was Sophia, Electoress of Hanover, whose 
 eldest son was George I. 
 
 Page 18. "Lord Finch." 
 
 Sir John Finch, Speaker of the House of Commons in 1627; Attorney- 
 General to the Queen (Henrietta Maria) in 1635 ; the following year 
 promoted to be Judge of the Common Pleas ; afterwards Lord Chief 
 Justice; thence promoted to be Lord Keeper of the Great Seal in 1637 ; 
 and in April, 1 640, advanced to the peerage as Baron Finch. He died in 
 1660. 
 
 Page 1 9. " Colonel Goring." 
 
 This was George, distinguished in the Civil Wars as General Goring, for 
 his military services in the cause of the King. He subsequently obtained 
 additional reputation as a lieutenant-general in the army of the King of 
 Spain employed in the Netherlands. He was the eldest son of Sir George 
 Goring, in 1632 created Baron Goring, and in 1644 raised to the Earldom 
 of Norwich, for his services to Charles I., before and after the troubles. 
 General Goring died before his father, in 1662. 
 
 Page 23. 
 
 In the early editions of this Diary, the entry relating to the Amsterdam 
 Hospital stood thus : u But none did I so much admire as an hospital for 
 their lame and decrepid soldiers, it being for state, order, and accommoda- 
 tions, one of the worthiest things that the world can show of that nature. 
 Indeed it is most remarkable what provisions are here made and maintain'd 
 for publick and charitable purposes, and to protect the poor from misery, 
 and the country from beggars." The passage in the text would appear to 
 
 VOL. I. D D
 
 402 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 have received Evelyn's later correction. The reader will remember with 
 some interest, in connexion with this remark on the hospital of Amsterdam, 
 that the first stone of Greenwich Hospital was afterwards laid by Evelyn. 
 
 Page 23. 
 
 Some slight differences may be marked in the description of the Dutch 
 towns as it stands in the earlier editions. These and other discrepancies 
 are explained in the preface to the present edition ; and, in all the more 
 important passages, the text as first printed is preserved in these notes. 
 "... sluices, moles, and rivers, that nothing is more frequent than to see 
 a whole navy of merchants and others environ'd with streets and houses, 
 every man's bark or vessel at anchor before his very door ; and yet the 
 street so exactly strait, even, and uniform, that nothing can be more pleasing, 
 especially being so frequently planted and shaded with the beautiful lime-trees, 
 set in rows before every man's house." 
 
 Page 24. 
 
 The description of the Briloft is thus given in the earlier editions : 
 u There was a lamp of brass, with eight sockets from the middle stem, 
 like those we use in churches, having counterfeit tapers in them, streams of 
 water issuing as out of their wicks, the whole branch hanging loose upon a 
 tack in the midst of a beam, and without any other perceptible commerce 
 with any pipe, so that, unless it were by compression of the air with a 
 syringe, I could not comprehend how it should be done. There was a chime 
 of porcelain dishes, which fitted to clock-work and rung many ohanges and 
 tunes." That of the Reiser's Graft stands thus : " The Reiser's Graft, or 
 Emperor's Street, appears a city in a wood through the goodly ranges of 
 the stately lime-trees planted before each man's door, and at the margin 
 of that goodly aquse-duct, or river, so curiously wharfed with clincars (a kind 
 of white sun-bak'd brick), and of which material the spacious streets on 
 either side are paved. This part of Amsterdam is gained upon the main 
 sea, supported by piles at an immense charge. Prodigious it is to consider 
 the multitude of vessels which continually ride before this City, which is 
 certainly the most busy concourse of mortals now upon the whole earth, 
 and the most addicted to commerce." 
 
 Page 25. 
 
 The entry as to the booksellers is thus expressed in the earlier editions : 
 " I went to Hundius's shop to buy some maps, greatly pleased with the 
 designs of that indefatigable person. Mr. Bleaw, the setter forth of the 
 Atlas's and other works of that kind, is worthy seeing." 
 
 Page 26. " The famous Dan Heinsius." 
 
 Daniel Heinsius, a scholar and critic, who edited numerous editions 
 of the Classics. He was chosen professor of history at Leyden ; then 
 secretary and librarian of the University. In 1619, he was appointed secre- 
 tary to the states of Holland, at the Synod of Dort ; and the fame of his 
 learning became so diffused, that the Pope endeavoured to draw him to 
 Rome. He was made a Rnight of St. Mark by the Republic of Venice, and 
 the Ring of Sweden honoured him with the title of Counsellor. He died in 
 January, 1 655. The Elzevir printers are well known. 
 
 Page 32, line 52. Sir Henry De Vic." 
 
 For twenty years resident at Brussels for Charles II ; also Chancellor 
 of the Order of the Garter ; and in 1 662 appointed Comptroller of the 
 Household of the Duke of York. He died in 1672.
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 403 
 
 Page 32. 
 
 In the earlier editions of the Diary, the entry descriptive of the tower of 
 Antwerp Cathedral was taken from Evelyn's earlier text. " It is a very 
 venerable fabric, built after the Gothic manner ; the tower is of an excessive 
 height. This I ascended, that I might the better take a view of the country 
 about it, which happening on a day when the sun shone exceedingly hot, 
 and darted the rays without any interruption, afforded so bright a reflection 
 to us who were above, and had a full prospect of both land and water about it, 
 that I was much confirmed in my opinion of the moon's being of some such 
 substance as this earthly globe consists of ; perceiving all the adjacent country 
 at so small a horizontal distance, to repercuss such a light as I could hardly 
 look against, save where the river, and other large water within our view, 
 appeared of a more dark and uniform colour, resembling those spots in the 
 moon supposed to be seas there, according to our new philosophy, and 
 viewed by optical glasses. I numbered in this church 30 privileged altars, 
 whereof that of St. Sebastian's was rarely painted." 
 
 Page 51, line 17. "Monsieur Saracin." 
 
 James Sarazin, a celebrated sculptor, much employed by the royal family 
 of France. For Cardinal Richelieu he executed, in silver and gold, Anne 
 of Austria's offering to the Chapel of Loretto, in the form of a group 
 representing the dauphin's presentation to the Virgin Mary. Born 1590, 
 died 1660. 
 
 Page 66. 
 
 In the first and second quarto editions of the Diary many trifling personal 
 details, such as this mention of the author having sent his own picture in 
 watercolours to his sister, were omitted ; but they were restored by Mr. 
 Upcott in the subsequent octavos. It is not necessary to point them out in 
 detail. They are always of this personal character (for other examples, the 
 mention of the wet weather preventing the diarist from stirring out, at 
 p. 117, and that of his coming weary to his lodgings, at p. 114, might be 
 cited), and seldom of any importance. There is only one passage in the 
 quarto editions which has not been repeated in the octavos, and it would be 
 difficult to say what induced Mr. Upcott to omit in the latter the incident it 
 describes ; unless Evelyn's apparent confusion as to the name of the inn at 
 Orleans where the adventure occurred (for he calls it the White Lion as 
 well as the White Cross) may have caused him to doubt the miracle alto- 
 gether. It occurs in the mention of his coming to Orleans (at p. 67), 
 where, as printed in the quarto, he adds, " I lay at the White Lion, where I 
 found Mr. John Nicholas, eldest son to Mr. Secretary. In the night a cat 
 kittened on my bed, and left on it a young one having six ears, eight legs, 
 two bodies from the middle downwards, and two tails. I found it dead, but 
 warm, in the morning when I awaked." 
 
 Page 101, line 3 from bottom. " My Lord of Somerset." 
 
 Thomas, third son of Edward fourth Earl of Worcester, made a Knight of 
 the Bath, by King James, and in 1626 created Viscount Somerset, of Cashel, 
 in Ireland. He died in 1651. 
 
 Page 1 08. Father Kircher." 
 
 Athanasius Kircher was born at Fulda, in Germany, early in the seven- 
 teenth century. He received his education at Wurtzburg, and in 1635 
 entered the College of Jesuits, at Avignon. He became a good scholar in 
 Oriental literature, and an admirable mathematician ; but he directed his 
 
 D D 2
 
 404 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 attention particularly to the study of hieroglyphics. Father Kircher's works 
 on various abstruse subjects amount to twenty folio volumes, for which he 
 acquired great renown in his day. On Evelyn's visit to Rome, he was con- 
 sidered one of the greatest mathematicians and Hebrew scholars of which 
 the metropolis of Christianity then the head quarters of learning could 
 boast. He died there in 1680. See subsequent passages in the Diary, 
 p. 313. 
 
 Page 108. " Schotti." 
 
 Caspar Schott, a native of Wurtzburg, where he was born in 1608, who 
 had the advantage of being the favourite pupil of Father Kircher. He 
 taught philosophy and mathematics at Rome and Palermo, and published 
 several curious and erudite works in philosophy and natural history ; but 
 they have long since ceased to possess any authority. He died in 1666. 
 
 Page 132, Urn 28. " Famianus Strada." 
 
 Born at Rome, in 1572 ; after joining the Society of Jesus, in 1592, 
 appointed professor of rhetoric in their college in Home ; and known to 
 the English reader by his " Prolusiones Academicse," in which he intro- 
 duced clever imitations of the Latin poets, translations of several of which 
 Addison published in the ' Guardian.' He died at Rome, in 1649. 
 
 Page 193. " Isabella Sirani." 
 
 Giovanni Andrea Sirani, a Bolognese artist, had three daughters. The 
 most celebrated, Elizabetta, born 1638, and died August 1657, is the lady 
 alluded to by Evelyn as having been so famous a copyist of Guido, of whom 
 her father was a pupil, and imitator. Her sisters, Anna and Barbara, were 
 also artists, but never reached the excellence of Elizabetta. 
 
 Page 204. Lord Bruce." 
 
 Thomas Bruce, first Earl of Elgin, in Scotland ; created by Charles I., 
 on the 13th of July, 1640, Baron Bruce, of Whorlton, Yorkshire, in the 
 English peerage. He died in 1663. 
 
 Page 21 1. The Cavalier Dr. Veslingius." 
 
 John Vesling was born at Minden, in Germany, in 1598 ; and became 
 Professor of Anatomy in the University of Padua. Evelyn says that at 
 his visit he was anatomical and botanical professor, and prefect. He had the 
 care of the botanical garden, and published a catalogue of its plants. He 
 wrote also " Syntagma Anatomicum," and shortly afterwards travelled 
 into Egypt, where he seems to have paid a good deal of attention to the 
 artificial means of hatching poultry, then an Egyptian marvel, lately a 
 common exhibition in London. He wrote many other works, and died 
 in 1 649. 
 
 Page 214. Lord Mowbray, eldest son to the Earl of Arundel." 
 
 James Lord Mowbray and Maltravers, the eldest son of Lord Arundel, 
 died before his father. Evelyn's friend was Henry Frederick, the Earl's 
 second son, who, on his father's death in Italy, succeeded to the earldom of 
 Arundel. He married, in 1626, Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Esme Stuart, 
 Earl of March, and afterwards Duke of Lennox ; who will be found noticed 
 occasionally by Evelyn. He died April 7, 1652.
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 405 
 
 Page 215. " Mr. Henry Howard, grandchild to the Earl of Arundel." 
 
 Second son of the preceding. He succeeded his elder brother, Thomas, who 
 had been restored to the dukedom of Norfolk, as sixth duke, though he had 
 previously been created Baron Howard and Earl of Norwich. Also created 
 Earl Marshal of England, and died January 11, 1683-4. Evelyn often 
 mentions this family. 
 
 Page 219. " Lord Arundel's grandson Philip, turning Dominican friar, 
 since Cardinal of Norfolk." 
 
 Philip was the third son of Henry Frederick Baron Mowbray. He 
 entered the Church of Rome, as stated by Evelyn, and afterwards rose to 
 the dignity of Cardinal and became Lord Almoner to Catherine, consort of 
 Charles II. He died in 1694. 
 
 Page 224. " Ferrarius, a Doctor of the Ambrosian College." 
 
 Francisco Bernardino Ferrari, born in 1577, and for his extensive know- 
 ledge of books selected by Frederick Borromeo, Archbishop of Milan, as 
 a proper person to travel and collect books and manuscripts for a noble 
 library he was desirous of founding in that city. He collected a great 
 number of works in all classes of literature, which, with later additions, has 
 since been known as the Ambrosian Library. He died in 1669. 
 
 Page 239. " His little pupil, the Earl of Carnarvon." 
 
 Charles, third Baron Dormer, succeeded, in September, 1643, as second 
 Earl of Carnarvon ; his father having been killed at Newbury, where he was 
 in arms for the King as a General of Horse. He died on the 29th of Sep- 
 tember, 1709. 
 
 Page 245. " Dr. Earle." 
 
 John Earle was born at York in 1601, and finished his education at Mer- 
 ton College, Oxford, where he took his degree of Doctor of Divinity. He was 
 appointed sub-tutor to Prince Charles, son of Charles I., whom he afterwards 
 attended when abroad, as chaplain. Returning to England at the Restora- 
 tion, he was successively made Dean of Westminster, Clerk of the Closet, 
 Bishop of Worcester, and Bishop of Salisbury. He was the author of a 
 Latin translation of the " Eikon Basilike," of " Microsmography, or a piece 
 of the World discovered in Essays and Characters," and of " An Elegy on 
 Mr. Francis Beaumont." He died at Oxford in 1665. 
 
 Page 246. " Sir William Ducy [Ducie], afterwards Lord Downe." 
 
 The son of Sir Robert Ducie, the wealthy Lord Mayor, created a baronet 
 by Charles ; his only return for about 80,OOOL which Chai-les had borrowed 
 from him. Sir William was made one of the Knights. of the Bath, and 
 created Viscount Downe at the coronation of Charles II. Dying without 
 issue, his estates descended to the only daughter of his younger brother, 
 whose son was Lord Ducie in 1720, and from him descended the present 
 Earl of Ducie. 
 
 Page 248. La Neve." 
 
 Probably the artist mentioned by Walpole as Cornelius Neve, who drew a 
 portrait of Ashmole. 
 
 Page 251. " Sir Arthur Hopton, brother to Sir Ralph Lord 11 op ton, 
 that noble hero." 
 
 Sir Arthur Hopton was uncle, not brother, to Lord Hopton (so well known 
 for his services to Charles in the course of the Civil War) ; and would have
 
 4,06 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 succeeded his Lordship in the title, as the latter died childless, but that Sir 
 Arthur had himself died two years before him, without issue, in the year 
 1650. The title became extinct. 
 
 Page 251. "My worthy friend, Sir John Owen." 
 
 A Royalist officer, whose life had been forfeited for the part he took 
 against the Parliament, but was sared by the timely interposition of 
 Colonel Hutchinson. The latter humanely spoke for him in the House, though 
 Sir John was a perfect stranger to him, because he perceived, while the great 
 noblemen, his companions, found earnest intercessors, no one seemed to know 
 anything of the Knight, or would offer a word in favour of him. Sir John 
 Owen afterwards proved himself ungrateful. 
 
 Page 251. Lady Hatton." 
 
 Elizabeth, eldest daughter of Sir Charles Montague, and niece of Henry 
 Earl of Manchester. She married Sir Christopher Hatton made a Knight 
 of the Bath at the coronation of Charles I., who, on the 20th of July, 1643, 
 created him Baron Hatton, of Kirby, for his devotion to the royal cause. 
 After the Restoration, he was sworn of the Privy Council, and appointed 
 governor of Guernsey. He died in 1 670. 
 
 Page 252. Old Alexander Rosse." 
 Immortalised in Butler's couplet : 
 
 " There was an ancient sage Philosopher ; 
 Who had read Alexander Ross over." 
 
 He was a Scotchman, born in 1591 ; and after receiving an education for 
 the church, took orders, became master of a free school at Southampton, 
 and preached, wrote, and taught with a diligence that ought to have obtained 
 him other reputation than Butler's ludicrous lines have bestowed upon him. 
 He died in 1654. 
 
 Page 252. " Lady Catherine Scott, Daughter of the Earl of Norwich." 
 
 His youngest daughter ; married to James Scott, Esq., of Scott's Hall, 
 Kent, supposed to have been a son of Prince Rupert. 
 
 Page 252. * Sir George Cartaret, Governor of Jersey." 
 
 George was son and heir to Helier Cartaret, Esq., Deputy-governor of 
 Jersey, and grandson of Sir Philip Cartaret, who in the reign of Elizabeth 
 planted a colony in the island (in which his ancestors, from the time of Ed- 
 ward I., had held lands) to secure it from the French, who had fre- 
 quently sought to obtain possession of it. The son of the Deputy-governor 
 entered the navy at an early age ; greatly distinguished himself in the 
 service ; and attracting the attention of the Duke of Buckingham, received 
 the appointment from Charles I., of Joint-governor of Jersey, and Comp- 
 troller of the Navy. Having served the King during the civil wars, at 
 the Restoration he was returned to Parliament for Portsmouth, and filled 
 the office of Treasurer of the Navy. He died January 13th, 1674. Several 
 members of his family distinguished themselves in the wars of the seventeenth 
 century, and one of his descendants became a celebrated statesman under 
 the first and second Georges. 
 
 Page 253. My Lord Wilmot." 
 
 Henry, only son of Charles Viscount Wilmot, of Athlone, raised to the 
 English Peerage by Charles I., in June 29, 1643, as Baron Wilmot, of 
 Adderbury. He held a command in the King's cavalry, in which he served
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 407 
 
 with distinction at the battle of Roundway Doune ; subsequently assisting 
 Charles II. to escape from the field of Worcester ; though, according to the 
 King's statement to Pepys, it was rather in the way of hiding from, than in 
 combating with, his enemies. Nevertheless he was created Earl of Roches- 
 ter, December 13, 1652, at Paris, where Charles for a short time assumed 
 the privilege of sovereignty. He died at Dunkirk in 1659, and was suc- 
 ceeded by his only surviving son, afterwards the notorious Rochester. 
 
 Page 253. " Mrs. Barlow, the King's mistress, and mother to the Duke 
 of Monmouth." 
 
 The lady here referred to was Lucy, daughter of Richard Walters, Esq., 
 of Haverfordwest. (See Evelyn's striking mention of her in a later passage, 
 vol. ii., p. 229.) She had two children by the King ; James, subsequently 
 so celebrated as the Duke of Monmouth, and Mary, whose lot was obscure in 
 comparison with that of her brother, but of course infinitely happier. She 
 married a Mr. William Sarsfield, of Ireland, and after his death, William 
 Fanshawe, Esq. 
 
 Page 253. " Mr. William Coventry, afterwards Sir William." 
 
 A member of the Privy Council of Charles II., and Commissioner of the 
 Treasury, but dismissed the Court for sending a challenge to the Duke of 
 Buckingham. " He was a man," says Burnet, " of great notions and eminent 
 virtues ; the best speaker in the House of Commons, and capable of bearing 
 the chief ministry, as it was once thought he was very near it, and deserved 
 it more than all the rest did." Evelyn, in a subsequent mention in his 
 journal, characterises him as "a wise and witty gentleman." 
 
 Page 256. M My Lord of Ossory, and Richard, sons to the Marquis 
 of Onnonde." 
 
 James Butler, Marquis of Ormonde, and Earl of Ossory in the Irish 
 Peerage, first brought himself into notice when Ireland had for her Lord- 
 Deputy the Earl of Strafford. A Parliament had been summoned to meet at 
 Dublin Castle with strict injunctions that the members were to come 
 unarmed, and the young Marquis not having attended to this when he pre- 
 sented himself at the door, the Usher of the Black Rod demanded his 
 sword ; whereupon the other fiercely replied, that if he had his sword at all, he 
 should have it "in his guts." The Lord-Deputy summoned the Marquis of 
 Ormonde before him in the evening to account for this conduct ; when his 
 Lordship produced the King's writ summoning him to Parliament " cinctus 
 cum gladio." Upon this Strafford fancied so resolute a man would be better 
 as a friend than as an enemy, resolved to attach him to the King's service and 
 to his own, and appointed him a member of the Council. The Marquis 
 was afterwards a staunch friend of Strafford, even in his adversity, and an 
 equally earnest partizan of the King, who bestowed upon him the Order of 
 the Garter, and appointed him Lord-Deputy of Ireland, and Lord Steward of 
 the Household. In the Civil Wars he exerted himself zealously in the cause of 
 his master, till obliged to seek safety with his family in exile. He returned at 
 the Restoration, and Charles II., on the 20th of July, 1660, raised him to the 
 English Peerage by the titles of Baron Butler and Earl of Brecknock, advanced 
 him in the Irish Peerage to the Dukedom of Ormonde, and again appointed 
 him to the Lord Lieutenancy of Ireland. He died in 1688. Bishop Burnet 
 has left a sort of negative character of the Duke, for he describes him as 
 " a man of great expense, but decent even in his vices, for he always kept 
 up the forms of religion." He seems to have made himself more accept- 
 able to Grammont, who neither alludes to his vices nor to his religion
 
 408 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 but, discovering a resemblance in the turn of his wit and the nobility of 
 his manners to his own relative, the Marshal de Grammont, thinks that he 
 is bound to estimate the Duke at the highest possible appreciation. Of the 
 sons mentioned by Evelyn, the first was the Duke's second son, Thomas, 
 Earl of Ossory, who proved himself an efficient commander both by sea and 
 land, an able statesman, and an accomplished man of letters. According to 
 Anthony Wood, his heroism in the sea fight with the Dutch, in 1 673, was 
 " beyond the fiction of romance ; " and Evelyn's correspondence contains 
 earnest tributes to his character. On the 24th of September, 1666, he was 
 summoned to Parliament as Lord Butler, of Moor Park ; and was after- 
 wards employed as General of the Horse, as member of the Privy Council, and 
 as deputy for his father in his Irish government. He died July 30, 1680. 
 Richard, the younger brother of Thomas, also referred to by Evelyn, 
 was created an Irish Peer in 1662, by the titles of Baron Butler, Viscount 
 Tullogh, and Earl of Arran ; and became an English Peer in 1673, by the 
 title of Baron Butler, of Weston. He also was deputy for his father, and 
 distinguished himself both by sea and land, particularly in the naval engage- 
 ment with the Dutch in 1673, and against the mutinous garrison of Carrick- 
 fergus. He died in 1685. Evelyn highly esteemed this family, and makes 
 frequent allusion to them. 
 
 Page 256. Earl of Chesterfield." 
 
 Sir Philip Stanhope, created November 7, 1616, Baron Stanhope of Shel- 
 ford ; and on the 4th August, 1628, Earl of Chesterfield. At the breaking 
 out of hostilities with the Parliament, his lordship became a determined 
 partisan for the King, and garrisoned his house at Shelford, where his son 
 Philip lost his life, and the place was stormed and burned to the ground. 
 Lord Chesterfield at last found safety in flight, and retired to France. He 
 died September 12, 1756. 
 
 Page 258. Lord Stanhope." 
 
 Charles, second Baron Stanhope, of Harrington. He died in 1677. Henry, 
 son of Philip, first Earl of Chesterfield, and his son Philip (subsequently 
 second Earl), also in succession bore the title of Lord Stanhope. 
 
 Page 258. " The famous sculptor Nanteuil." 
 
 Robert Nanteuil, who drew cleverly in crayons, and was an admirable 
 engraver. Born at Rheims, in 1630, and died at Paris in 1678. 
 
 Page 262. u Sir Thomas Osborne, afterwards Lord Treasurer." 
 
 The only son of Sir Edward Osborne, Vice-President of the Council 
 for the north of England, and Lieutenant-General of the Northern Forces. 
 Sir Edward had devoted himself to the cause of Charles I., and his son 
 followed his example. He shared the same fortune as other exiles during 
 the Protectorate, but at the Restoration was amply rewarded, dignities and 
 titles being showered upon him with excessive liberality. Lord High 
 Treasurer, and Knight of the Garter, he was successively created Baron 
 Osborne, of Kiveton, and Viscount Latimer, of Danby; Earl of Danby, 
 Marquis of Carmarthen, and Duke of Leeds, in the English Peerage ; and 
 Viscount Dumblane, in the Peerage of Scotland. He died July 26, 1712. 
 The vicissitudes of his official career are well known. 
 
 Page 266. " Mr. Thomas White, a learned Priest, and famous philosopher." 
 
 A native of Essex, who was born in 1582, educated abroad, and, his family 
 being Catholic, became a priest of that church, and sub-rector of the college
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 409 
 
 at Douay. He advocated the Cartesian philosophy, and this brought him 
 into an extensive correspondence with Hobbes and Descartes, in the course 
 of which he Latinised his name into Thomas Albius, or De Albis. He died 
 in 1676. 
 
 Page 266. Lord Strafford." 
 
 This was William, the eldest son of the Earl who was executed ; but 
 he was not restored to his father's titles till the Restoration. He died in 
 1 695. The " Lord Wentworth " adverted to by Evelyn in a preceding page 
 (253), was the son of the Earl of Cleveland. 
 
 Page 267. " The Lord Gerrard." 
 
 Charles, son of Sir Charles Gerard, having served for some time in the 
 Netherlands, returned to England in time to join King Charles, when 
 his dispute with the Parliament was referred to the sword. He was made a 
 general officer, and eminently distinguished himself on several occasions, for 
 which the King appointed him lieutenant-general of his horse, and created 
 him Baron Gerard, of Brandon, on the 8th of November, 1 645. By Charles II. 
 he was raised to the dignity of Viscount Brandon, and Earl of Macclesfield, 
 on the 23d of July, 1679 ; but by James II. he was sent to the Tower, in 
 company with the Lords Stamford and Delamere, and condemned to death, 
 though afterwards pardoned. He lived five years beyond the Revolution. 
 
 Page 273. Mrs. Lane." 
 
 Sister of Colonel Lane, an English officer in the army of Charles II. dis- 
 persed at the battle of Worcester. She assisted the King in effecting his 
 escape after that battle, his Majesty travelling with her disguised as her 
 serving-man, William Jackson.. 
 
 Page 278. " My Lord Devonshire." 
 
 William, third Earl. He died in 1684. " My young lord," with whom 
 Evelyn desired that his nephew George might be " brought up," was his only 
 son, William, created on the 12th of May 1694 Marquis of Harlington and 
 Duke of Devonshire. He was also Knight of the Garter and Lord Steward 
 of the Household. 
 
 Page 278. " Sir Adam Newton." 
 
 Tutor and afterwards secretary to Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of 
 James I., who, in April, 1620, created him a baronet. An admirable 
 scholar. After the death of Prince Henry, Sir Adam Newton was 
 appointed treasurer to Prince Charles, and in 1628 succeeded Lord Brooke 
 as secretary to the Marches of Wales. He died in 1629-30, leaving one son 
 Evelyn's " noble friend" Sir Henry Newton, who, on the decease of the 
 last surviving daughter of his uncle, Sir Thomas Pickering, succeeded to his 
 estate and assumed his name. 
 
 Page 283. Dr. Scarborough." 
 
 Sir Charles Scarborough was educated at Caius College, Cambridge, where 
 he obtained a Fellowship. He afterwards studied medicine ; but making 
 himself too conspicuous as a Royalist during the troubles, was deprived of 
 his Fellowship, and found it necessary to retire to Oxford. Subsequently 
 he practised in London as a physician, and at the Restoration received the 
 honour of knighthood, and was named one of the King's physicians. He 
 succeeded Harvey at Surgeons' Hall as lecturer.
 
 410 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 Page 288. " Sir Robert Stapylton." 
 
 A member of a Yorkshire Catholic family, who obtained the post 
 of Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Prince Charles (Charles II.), occasion- 
 ally varying his duties by fighting against the Parliamentarians and writing 
 books. For his services at Edgehill, Charles I. conferred on him the honour 
 of knighthood ; and, at about the same period, he was made LL.D at Oxford. 
 At the Restoration, Sir Robert Stapylton appeared as a writer of plays, 
 poems, and translations. He died in 1669. 
 
 Pages 2889. My Lord Craven." 
 
 William, eldest son of Sir William Craven, Lord Mayor of London, who, 
 after a good deal of service under Gustavus Adolphus and Henry Prince of 
 Orange, distinguished himself against the forces of the Parliament, and was 
 created by Charles I., in 1663, Viscount and Earl Craven. He survived 
 all the changes of the government, and, in the latter years of his life, 
 acquired some celebrity from an odd peculiarity of taste. He was so sure 
 to be at any conflagration that occurred in London, that the people said his 
 horse "smelt a fire as soon as it happened." He died, April 9th, 1697, 
 at the advanced age of eighty-eight. (The word " Caversham," in the first 
 line of p. 289, should have been printed between brackets.) 
 
 Page 288. Note upon Buckingham House. 
 
 This note is not correct. The first house on the site of the present 
 Buckingham Palace was called Goring House ; the second, Arlington House ; 
 the third, Buckingham House, afterwards called the Queen's House, and 
 pulled down to erect the present Buckingham Palace. 
 
 Page 290. " Dr. Ward, Mathematical Professor." 
 
 Seth Ward, the son of an attorney, was born in 1617, at Bantingford, 
 in Hertfordshire, and finished his education at Sidney College, Cambridge, 
 where he obtained a fellowship, but was expelled the university in 1744, for 
 refusing the covenant. Oxford, as usual, received him ; where he succeeded 
 Greaves, the Savilian Professor of Astronomy ; and in 1654, obtained the 
 degree of Doctor of Divinity. He was intimately acquainted with the ab- 
 stract sciences, and was one of that limited band of scholars at whose 
 meetings first arose the idea of the Royal Society, in which Evelyn took 
 so deep an interest and so active a part. He was elected Master of Trinity 
 in 1659, which, however, he resigned, when presented with the Rectory of 
 St. Lawrence Jewry, London. In succession he also became Precentor of 
 Exeter, Dean, and Bishop, from which see, in 1 667, he was translated to 
 Salisbury, and was named Chancellor of the Order of the Garter. Dr. Ward 
 wrote numerous works illustrative of mathematical science and of astronomy, 
 and opposed Hobbes in a Latin Treatise : he also published several sermons, 
 and a Philosophical Essay on the Being and Attributes of God. He died in 
 1689, having for some years outlived his faculties. 
 
 Page 291. " My dear and excellent friend, Dr. Wilkins." 
 
 John Wilkins was the son of an Oxford goldsmith, and was born in 1614, 
 at Paisley, near Daventry, in the house of his grandfather, John Dodd, a 
 celebrated nonconformist divine, and author of a work on the Commandments, 
 which obtained him the name of the Decalogist. Young Wilkins was edu- 
 cated at Oxford, for the ministry, matriculated at New Inn Hall, in 1627, 
 and afterwards graduated at Magdalen Hall. Aubrey says he was as eager 
 for experimental philosophy at Oxford as Lord Bacon had been at Cambridge.
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 411 
 
 As a divine he was early in repute, and received the domestic chaplaincy of the 
 Count Palatine of the Rhine ; but this did not prevent him from subsequently 
 adopting the covenant. He then took part with the republic, and by his 
 discourses entirely gained the confidence of its leaders ; through whose 
 influence he was elected head of Wadbani College, and, obtaining a privi- 
 lege to dispense with the condition of celibacy attached to that particular 
 mastership, married in 1656, Robinia, the sister of Oliver Cromwell. 
 Even his popular sympathies, however, failed to withdraw him from the 
 cultivation of science ; for at the most troubled period preceding the 
 execution of Charles, he established a philosophical club, held weekly 
 at the Bull's Head Tavern, Cheapside, of which the principal rule was a 
 prohibition of " all discourses of divinity, of state affairs, and of news, other 
 than what concerned our business of philosophy." Again assisted by 
 his wife's relations, hi 1659, he was appointed to the headship of Trinity 
 College, Cambridge ; but this proved the last of their good offices, the restora- 
 tion of the King ensuing in the following year. Dr. Wilkins had mean- 
 while propitiated the Church party by acts of care and kindness for the 
 privileges of his university while he was in power, and he had no difficulty, 
 when he had intimated the necessary change in his opinions, in obtaining 
 the favour of Vilh'ers, Duke of Buckingham, and the means of Church 
 advancement. He was first appointed preacher to the societies of Gray's- 
 Inn; then rector of St. Lawrence, Old Jewry; afterwards dean of Ripon; and 
 finally, in 1668, bishop of Chester. In the course of these duties he found 
 leisure to write several works, both scientific and religious ; and no one ac- 
 quainted with the peculiarities of thinking in his age, will consider it any grave 
 imputation on his love for philosophy and practical science that he should 
 have advocated the practicability of a passage to the moon, in a work published 
 in 1638, under the title of " The Discovery of a New World, or a Discourse 
 on the World in the Moon," which he followed in 1640 with a treatise 
 striving to prove the earth a new planet. His other scientific writings were 
 entitled "Mercury, or the Secret and Swift Messenger," published in 1641, 
 " Mathematical Magic, or the Wonders to be performed by Mechanical Geo- 
 metry," published hi 1648, and "An Essay towards a real Character and 
 Philosophical Language." His religious works were, " Ecclesiastes, or the 
 gift of Preaching," " A Discourse concerning Providence," an essay " On 
 the Principles and Duties of Natural Religion," and another " On the Gift 
 of Prayer." Bishop Wilkins also materially assisted in the establishment of 
 the Royal Society (the first germ of which may be said to have existed in 
 the Bull's Head Club) ; and devoted himself to the advancement of religion and 
 science till his death, which took place November 19, 1672, in Chancery- 
 Lane, at the house of his daughter, who had married a still more eminent 
 member of the church, Dr. (afterwards Archbishop) Tillotson. Evelyn was 
 strongly attached to Wilkins, notwithstanding his early connection with the 
 revolutionary party ; and the feeling was more than justified by the many 
 estimable qualities of this remarkable man. 
 
 Page 294. Pierce." 
 
 Edward Pierce, a celebrated painter of history, landscape, and architecture, 
 who worked under Vandyke. He died a few years after the Restoration. 
 One of his sons, John, was also a painter. 
 
 Page 305. " That learned gentleman, my Lord Aungier." 
 Gerald, eldest son of Sir Francis Aungier, Master of the Rolls in 1609, 
 and created Baron Aungier in the Irish Peerage in 1621. He died in 1655, 
 and was succeeded by his nephew, Francis, afterwards created Earl of 
 Longford. Evelyn more than once celebrates his learning.
 
 412 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 Page 305. u Where Suffolk-street stood." For this note substitute 
 the following : 
 
 Suffolk House, afterwards Northumberland House. At the funeral of Anne 
 of Denmark, a young man was killed by the fall of the letter S from the 
 border of capital letters mentioned by Evelyn. 
 
 Page 310. Honest and learned Mr. Hartlib." 
 
 Samuel Hartlib is believed to have been born in Poland. He arrived', in 
 England about the year 1630, and attained some celebrity in 1641 by the 
 publication of a work describing some recent attempts to create a .general 
 union of Protestants of all denominations. Cromwell, gratified with his 
 labours for the advancement of civilisation, presented him with an annual 
 pension of 10U/., subsequently augmented to 3001. With this assistance he 
 founded a school for the education of gentlemen's sons ; and published 
 several works on agriculture. But he had thus exhausted his resources ; 
 and at the Restoration, when his pension was stopped, he fell into great 
 distress. Many of his contemporaries regarded Hartlib with the same 
 admiration as Evelyn, and Milton addressed to him his " Tractate on 
 Education." Subsequent mention will be made of him in the notes to 
 Evelyn's correspondence. 
 
 Page 312. " Barlow, the famous painter of fowls, beasts, and birds.." 
 Francis Barlow. He occasionally painted portraits. He died in 1702. 
 
 Page 312. Mr. Roger 1'Estrange," 
 
 Afterwards knighted ; and licenser of the press to Charles II., and 
 James II., in whose Parliament he was returned for Winchester. He was 
 the author of several works, chiefly translations ; was a fierce and reckless 
 advocate of high Church principles ; and established a newspaper called 
 the Public Intelligencer, which he afterwards changed to London Gazette, 
 and ultimately to a paper called the Observator. In the latter he so excelled 
 even himself in the fury of his assaults on the Whigs, that Evelyn, who hated 
 intemperance in all parties, became obliged to confess, though he thought 
 L'Estrange " a person of excellent parts, abating some affectations," that his 
 "pretence to serve the Church of England" involved a still stronger sus- 
 picion of " gratifying another party." He possessed courage enough to 
 oppose the infamous Titus Gates, when that worthy was terrifying every 
 one (including the King) that held opposite opinions to himself ; and when 
 James II., whom he had supported in his claim to a dispensing power, 
 assumed the mask of toleration, L'Estrange quarrelled also with him. 
 Pepys describes him as a man of fine conversation, most courtly, and full 
 of compliments ; but seeking his society for the purpose of obtaining news. 
 He was known among the courtiers by the sobriquet of " Oliver's fiddler," 
 owing to a report, which he strenuously denied, that he had once performed 
 on the violin in the presence of the Protector. Queen Mary entertained 
 a great antipathy to him, and, by transposing the letters of his name, 
 gave him the appellation of "Lying Strange Roger." He died in 1704, 
 aged eighty-eight. 
 
 Page 313. " Mr. Robert Boyle, that excellent person and great virtuoso."' 
 
 Fifth surviving son of Richard Boyle, styled "the great Earl of 
 Cork," and bora at Lismore, in Ireland, January 25, 1626-7. He was 
 travelling on the continent, when the death of his father, who had be- 
 queathed to him the Dorsetshire property and other estates, brought him
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 413 
 
 back to England, in 1644, and the remainder of his life was spent in the 
 study of natural philosophy, wherein he made many important discoveries, 
 and obtained the reputation, both at home and abroad, of being one of the 
 greatest philosophers of his age. He died December 30, 1691. His name 
 occurs too frequently in the Diary, and in the letters of Evelyn (one of which 
 contains a most elaborate and finished picture of this " friend of forty 
 years"), to justify any further allusion to him in this place. 
 
 Page 313. * Sir William Paston's son, since Earl of Yarmouth." 
 
 Sir Robert Paston, Bart., who obtained great reputation as a Royalist 
 commander, and for whose services, Charles II., on 15th August, 1673, 
 created him Baron Paston, and Viscount Yarmouth. And in 1674 he was 
 made Earl of Yarmouth, and died July 30 of the same year. He was 
 reputed a good scholar. 
 
 Page 314. " The old Marquis of Argyle, since executed." 
 
 Archibald, eighth Earl, created Marquis of Argyle, November 15, 1641. 
 In the subsequent troubles he took his place at the head of the Scotch 
 Covenanters, and did so much damage to Charles I.'s cause, that the wrong 
 was not considered to have been expiated by his subsequent proclamation of 
 Charles II. Evelyn, who knew him well, calls him a " turbulent" man ; 
 and at the Restoration, having been convicted of high treason, he had his 
 head struck off by the maiden, at the market-cross of Edinburgh, on the 
 27th of May, 1661. 
 
 Page 314. u The Earl of Southampton, since Treasurer." 
 
 Thomas Wriothesley, fourth Earl, a distinguished Royalist, who at the 
 Restoration was created a Knight of the Garter, and appointed Lord Trea- 
 surer. His second daughter, Rachel, was the wife of the patriot Lord Wil- 
 liam Russell. He married three times. By his second wife, Frances, 
 daughter of Francis Earl of Chichester, who died in 1644, he succeeded to 
 that title; but dying without male issue, May 1 6, 1667, all his honours became 
 extinct. Evelyn enjoyed much of his hospitality, and characterises him as a 
 person of extraordinary parts, but a valetudinarian. 
 
 Page 317. " Mr. Needham, my dear and learned friend." 
 
 Jasper Needham, a physician of great repute, and one of Evelyn's oldest 
 friends. For apathetic mention of his death, see the Diary, voL u'., p. 135. 
 
 Page 317. " Old Sir Henry Vane." 
 
 This was " Vane, young in years, but in sage counsel old," the nobleness 
 and independence of whose character, as well as his claims to the affection of 
 posterity, are not ill expressed in the two facts recorded by Evelyn his 
 imprisonment by Cromwell, and his judicial murder by Charles the Second. 
 
 Page 31 9. Mr. Mordaunt." 
 
 John, second son of John, fifth Baron Mordaunt, and first Earl of Peter- 
 borough. He was a zealous Royalist ; an offence for which he was tried, 
 and, as Evelyn relates in a subsequent page, acquitted by one vote, under 
 the Commonwealth. Nevertheless; he still exerted himself to bring back 
 Charles II., who, on the 10th of July, 1659, created him Baron Mordaunt of 
 Reigate, and Viscount Mordaunt of Avalon, and appointed him Constable of 
 Windsor Castle, and Custos Rotulorum of the County of Surrey. Many foul 
 charges were afterwards brought against him in connection with his com-
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 mand at Windsor. See vol. ii., p. 19. With his mother and his wife, Evelyn 
 was extremely intimate, frequently mentioning both with enthusiasm ; and 
 taking an active part, as many passages of the Diary will show, in the business 
 affairs of the family. 
 
 Page 319. " Two of my Lord Dover's daughters." 
 
 Henry Carey, fourth Baron Hunsdon, created Viscount Rochford and 
 Earl^of Dover, and who died in 1668, had three daughters Mary, married 
 to Sir Thomas Wharton, Judith, and Philadelphia. 
 
 Page 320. Way-wiser." 
 
 Beckmann, in his " History of Inventions," has written an account of 
 the different instruments applied to carriages to measure the distance 
 they pass over. He places the first introduction of the adometer in England 
 at about the end of the sevententh century, instead of about the middle, 
 and states it to have been the invention of an ingenious artist named 
 Butterfield. 
 
 Page 321. " John Tradescant's museum." 
 
 The tomb-stone of the family in Lambeth church-yard declares, that 
 u Beneath this stone lie John Tradescant, grandsire, father, and son." 
 They were all eminent gardeners, travellers, and collectors of curiosities. 
 The first two came into this county in the reign of James I., and the second 
 and third were employed in the Royal Gardens by Charles I. They had a 
 house at Lambeth, which, being filled with rarities of every description, 
 passed by the name of Tradescant's Ark, and was much resorted to by the 
 lovers of the curious. It formed the foundation of the Ashmolean Museum 
 at Oxford, and a catalogue of its contents was printed by the youngest John 
 Tradescant, in 1656, with the title of " Museum Tradescantianum." He 
 died in 1652. See the Diary, vol. ii., pp. 119120. 
 
 Page 328. The Earl of Northumberland." 
 
 Algernon, tenth Earl. He was a Knight of the Garter ; and though 
 conspicuously opposed to Charles I. during the Civil Wars, promoted the 
 Restoration. He was one of our first collectors of pictures, and his gallery 
 at Suffolk, since Northumberland, House, was greatly admired, not only by 
 Evelyn, but by all connoisseurs. He died Oct. 1 3, 1668. 
 
 Page 332. " Mr. Brereton, a very learned gentleman." 
 
 William, afterwards third Lord Brereton ; a nobleman of extensive 
 acquirements, who assisted Evelyn in establishing the Royal Society. He 
 died in 1679. 
 
 Page 332. Sir Henry Blount, the famous traveller and water-drinker." 
 
 The second son of Sir Thomas Pope Blount, of Tittenhanger, in 
 Hertfordshire, born December 15, 1602. After entering himself a 
 member of the Society of Gray's Inn, he started in 1634 on a tour 
 in Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, which lasted four years, and on his return 
 published the results under the title of " A Voyage to the Levant, with 
 Observations concerning the Modern Condition of the Turks," which passed 
 through many editions. In 1638 he succeeded to the family estate, Blount's 
 Hall, Staffordshire, and the next year received the honour of knighthood. 
 On the breaking out of the troubles, Sir Henry Blount became a cavalier 
 officer, and fought under the royal banner at Edgehill. He afterwards
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 415 
 
 changed sides, was employed by Cromwell as a commissioner for reforming 
 the criminal code, and was engaged in trying the brother of the Portuguese 
 ambassador for murder. On the death of his brother in 1 654, Sir Henry 
 succeeded to another estate at Tittenhanger, and became High Sheriff of 
 Hertfordshire in 1661. On the return of Charles II. he found no difficulty 
 in making his peace, and entertained his subsequent leisure with the com- 
 position of comedies and other fugitive productions. 
 
 Page 334. " My Lord Viscount Montague." 
 
 Francis Brown, third Viscount, a zealous royalist. He died Novem- 
 ber 2, 1682. 
 
 Page 339. Dr. Bramhall." 
 
 John Bramhall, born in 1593, at Pontefract, in Yorkshire. Studying 
 for the Church, he obtained his Doctor's degree in 1638, and became chap- 
 lain to Archbishop Matthews ; then prebendary of York ; and subsequently of 
 Ripon. He went to Ireland on the invitation of Lord Wentwortb, and was 
 made Bishop of Derry ; but in 1641 his conduct laid him open to charges 
 of high treason, and he found it necessary to quit the country, till the return 
 of Charles II., when he was created Archbishop of Armagh. He died 
 in 1677, in which year there was a publication of his works, in one 
 volume, folio. Evelyn subsequently refers (see tin& Diary, \o\. ii., p. 252) to 
 a curious letter of his on the Irish Catholics, which caused the suppression 
 of the book in which it appeared. 
 
 Page 340. " Sir Philip Warwick, now Secretary to the Lord Treasurer." 
 
 He was born at Westminster, went to school at Eton, and afterwards pro- 
 ceeded to Geneva. On his return to England, he attached himself to the 
 Court, and obtained a seat in Parliament, where he opposed Strafford's 
 impeachment, and subsequently went to Oxford with the King, who employed 
 him in 1646 as one of his commissioners to treat with the Parliament, 
 and afterwards retained him as his secretary at the Isle of Wight. He was 
 returned for Middlesex at the Restoration, and obtained the office of, 
 Secretary to the Lord Treasurer, which brought him into frequent com- 
 munication with Evelyn. His death occurred in 1682. He had found time 
 to write " A Discourse on Government," and " Memoirs of King Charles," 
 the last containing some curious anecdotes, and the most graphic existing 
 account of Cromwell's first speech in the House of Commons. 
 
 Page 343. Countess of Guildford." 
 
 Elizabeth, daughter of William, first Earl of Denbigh, married to Lewis, 
 Viscount Boyle, who fell at the Battle of Liscarroll, in 1642. She was 
 advanced to the Peerage for life, on the 14th July, 1660, as Countess of 
 Guildford, and died in 1673. 
 
 Page 347. Grenville, Earl of Bath." 
 
 Son of the celebrated Royalist general, Sir Bevill Grenville, by whose side 
 he fought in several battles with great gallantry, though a mere youth. He 
 was afterwards Gentleman of the Bedchamber to Charles II., whom he 
 attended in his exile, and for whom he negotiated with Monk. In consider- 
 ation of his services he was raised to the peerage by the titles of Baron and 
 Viscount Grenville and Earl of Bath. He died in 1701.
 
 416 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 Paye 347. " Howard, Earl of Carlisle." 
 
 Charles, created Baron Dacre, Viscount and Earl of Carlisle, held several 
 important offices. He was Ambassador to the Czar of Muscovy, and was 
 afterwards sent with the Order of the Garter to Charles XII., King of 
 Sweden. He was also Governor of Jamaica. He died February 24th, 1684. 
 
 Page 347. Denzill Holies." 
 
 He was second son of John, first Earl of Clare, and at the commencement 
 of his career vigorously opposed in Parliament the arbitrary measures of 
 Charles I. ; but during the Commonwealth he sought to restore the monarchy, 
 for which he was created Baron Holies, and was employed as Ambassador 
 Extraordinary to the Court of France, and Plenipotentiary at the Treaty of 
 Breda. Nevertheless, he afterwards went round to his old opinions, and was 
 considered a patriot for the rest of his life, which terminated on the 17th 
 February, 1679-80. 
 
 Paye 347. " Cornwallis." 
 
 Sir Frederick Cornwallis, Bart., for his faithful services to Charles I. and 
 Charles II., created Baron Cornwallis, of Eye. He died in 1662. 
 
 Paye 351. " Lord Brouncker." 
 
 Sir William, the second Viscount Brounker, was the first President of the 
 Royal Society ; and several mathematical papers written by him are to be 
 found in their transactions. He died April 5th, 1684. He was also Chan- 
 cellor to Queen Catherine of Braganza, a Commissioner of the Admiralty, 
 and Master of St. Katherine's Hospital. 
 
 Paye 352. "Dr. Wallis." 
 
 John Wallis, born in 1616, at Ashford, in Kent, of which place his father 
 was minister. Adopting the same profession, he took his degree of Doctor 
 of Divinity, became chaplain to a Yorkshire baronet in 1641, and obtained 
 the living of St. Gabriel, Fenchurch-street, London, in 1643. As we learn 
 from Evelyn, he was one of the earliest members of the Royal Society, to the 
 transactions of which he contributed many valuable papers, and wrote several 
 mathematical and theological works. He was appointed chaplain to Charles 
 II., and had been employed in decyphering intercepted correspondence, in 
 which he was considered remarkably clever. He died October, 1703, at 
 Oxford, where his works had previously been published in three volumes 
 folio. 
 
 Page 352. Dr. Duport." 
 
 James Duport, son of the Master of Jesus' College, Cambridge, where he 
 was born in the year 1 606. He finished his education at Trinity, and was 
 appointed llegius Professor of Greek in 1632, but was deprived in 1656 for 
 refusing the engagement. He was Prebendary of Lincoln and Archdeacon 
 of Stow in 1641, and in 1660 chaplain to Charles II., when he was restored 
 to his Greek Professorship, created Doctor of Divinity, made Dean of 
 Peterborough, and, in 1668, elected Master of Magdalen College. He was 
 a good classical scholar. 
 
 Page 352. Dr. Fell." 
 
 John Fell, born June 23rd, 1625, at Longworth, in Berkshire, was son of 
 the Dean of Christchurch. He was removed from the grammar-school at 
 Thame, when only eleven years of age, to become a student at Christchurch, 
 Oxford, his father being at the time Vice-Chancellor of the University. Of 
 this appointment the elder Fell was deprived by the Parliament, and his son
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 417 
 
 expelled from his College, for having been in arms for the King. The father 
 died upon hearing of the execution of Charles, but the son was not over- 
 looked at the Restoration, receiving a stall at Chichester, and afterwards 
 a more valuable one at Christchurch. He served the office of Vice-Chancellor 
 of the University in 1666, and, in 1676, was made Bishop of Oxford. Bishop 
 Fell was a voluminous author. He died in 1686. 
 
 Page 353. " The New Spring-Garden at Lambeth a pretty contrived 
 plantation." 
 
 Since so well known under the name of Vauxhall Gardens. 
 
 Page 356. " Madame out of France." 
 Henrietta Maria. 
 
 Page 356. " My Lord of Bristol." 
 
 George Digby, second Earl, had suffered much for Royalty, but was made 
 Knight of the Garter, and might have held important employments, had he not, 
 when abroad, become a Catholic. He died in 1 6'. 6. Horace Walpole thus smartly 
 sums up his character : " He wrote against Popery, and embraced it. He was 
 a zealous opposer of the Court, and a sacrifice for it : was conscientiously con- 
 verted in the midst of his prosecution of Lord Strafford, and was most unconsci- 
 entiously a prosecutor of Lord Clarendon. With great parts, he always hurt 
 himself and his friends. With romantic bravery, he was always an unsuccessful 
 commander. He spoke for the Test Act, though a Roman Catholic; and 
 addicted himself to astrology on the birth-day of true philosophy." (Royal 
 and Noble Authors, Vol. II., p. 25.) Grammont mentions him, but in terms 
 far from respectful ; nor does " my lord of Bristol" appear to more advan- 
 tage in the annals of Bussy, or hi the continuation of his life by Clarendon. 
 
 Page 357. " Dr. Basire, that Great Traveller." 
 
 Isaac Basire, born in the Island of Jersey, in 1 607 ; was educated for the 
 Church ; for some time officiated as Master of the Free School at Guernsey ; 
 and then as chaplain to Morton, Bishop of Durham, who presented him with 
 a rectory and a vicarage. Preferments and honours promised to flow rapidly 
 upon him, when the disturbed state of the country induced him to quit 
 England, and he traveUed in the Morea, to the Holy Land, and to Con- 
 stantinople. On his return, Charles II. appointed Dr Basire his Chaplain 
 in Ordinary. He died in 1676. His sermons obtained a deserved celebrity. 
 He wrote also a History of the English and Scottish Presbytery. 
 
 Page 358. " Dr. Creighton." 
 
 Afterwards Bishop of Bath and Wells. His son, Dr. Robert Creighton, 
 while attending Charles II. in his exile, studied music, in which he became 
 such a proficient that his anthem, " I will arise and go to my Father," 
 and a service in the key of E., still maintain a high reputation with the lovers 
 of sacred music. He died at Wells in the year 1736. 
 
 Page 358. Sir William Petty." 
 
 One of the celebrities of the seventeenth century, born at Ramsey, in 
 Hampshire, in 1 623. He was the son of a clothier, who sent him to the gram- 
 mar school of his native town ; but at the age of fifteen, he was removed to 
 the University of Caen, in Normandy. On his return to England, he ac- 
 cepted an appointment in the navy; but with the object only of raising 
 
 VOL. I. E E
 
 418 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 
 
 enough money to enable him to travel,and complete his education his own way. 
 He proceeded to the University of Holland in 1643 ; thence to Paris, study- 
 ing anatomy and medicine ; and was again in England in 1646. In 1647, he 
 took out a patent for a copying-machine, which attracted towards the inventor 
 the notice of many men of science. Then he practised as a physician, and re- 
 sided at Oxford, where he was appointed assistant professor, and afterwards 
 Professorof Anatomy. He was a Fellow of Brasenose, created M.D. in 1649, 
 and admitted into the College of Physicians in the following year. He was, 
 at about the same period, Professor of Music in Gresham College ; Physician 
 to the Army in Ireland, and to the Lord Deputy Commissioner for the division 
 of the lands forfeited by the Rebels ; Secretary to the Lord Deputy ; and 
 Clerk of the Council. But having been elected for East Loo in the Parliament 
 of 1658, he was impeached for high crimes and misdemeanours in his Irish 
 commission a few months afterwards, and this ended in a deprivation of all 
 his employments. At the Restoration, however, he again appeared upon the 
 scene as prominently as ever. He was Commissioner of the Court of Claims ; 
 physician, philosopher, author, and projector ; opened lead mines, established 
 pilchard fisheries, and assisted in the councils of the Royal Society ; invented 
 the double-bottomed ship to go against wind and tide, mentioned by Evelyn ; 
 wrote a method for equalising taxation, and acted as president to a philoso- 
 phical society established in Dublin. So numerous is the list of things he did, 
 and the books he wrote, that it is impossible to notice half of them. But the 
 best and most amusing character of him is to be found in the text. He died 
 December 16th, 1687. 
 
 Page 360. Cooper." 
 
 There were two artists of this name, brothers, Alexander and Samue 
 Cooper. The former painted landscapes and portraits, resided at Amster- 
 dam, and entered into the service of Queen Christina of Sweden : the other 
 was a fashionable portrait painter, well known by his characteristic likeness 
 of Cromwell, and obtained in France and Holland, where he li ved for several 
 years, not less reputation than he had acquired in England. His head is 
 engraved in Walpole's Anecdotes, where there is a notice of him. He was 
 born in 1604, and died in 1672. 
 
 Page 362. " The young Marquis of Argyle." 
 
 Archibald, ninth Earl, who, notwithstanding his father's attainder, which 
 forfeited the marquisate, was permitted to inherit the ancient Earldom of his 
 family. Evelyn seems at once to have discovered him in this interview to 
 be " a man of parts," and he greatly deplored his subsequent fate. This has 
 been too strikingly and beautifully told by Mr. Macaulay in his recent his- 
 tory (vol. i., pp. 537-565) to require further allusion here. The reader 
 may be also referred to Lord Lindsay's entertaining Lives of the Lindsays, 
 voL ii., pp. 146-155. ^ 
 
 Page 363. " Our New Queen." 
 Katherine of Braganza. 
 
 Page 366. Sir R. Fanshawe. 
 
 Sir Richard Fanshawe, equally eminent at this period as a diplomatist 
 and as a poet. In the former position he acted as ambassador to the courts 
 of Spain and Portugal ; in the latter translated the Pastor Fido of Guarini, 
 and the Lusiad of Camoens. Born 1608 ; died 1666. His wife- was Anne, 
 eldest daughter of Sir John Harrison, of Balls, Hertfordshire.
 
 ADDITIONAL NOTES. 419 
 
 Page 369. Dr. Meret." 
 
 Christopher Merret, a celebrated physician and naturalist, and fellow of 
 the Royal Society. 
 
 Page 370. Earl of Oxford." 
 
 Aubrey de Vere, twentieth and last Earl. He had served as a military 
 officer, both at home and abroad ; and his services were rewarded at the Re- 
 storation by a seat at the Privy Council, the dignity of Knight of the Garter, 
 and the appointment of Lord- Lieutenant of Essex. He died in 1702, leaving 
 an only daughter, married to the Duke of St. Alban's. 
 
 Page 378. Mr. Hooke." 
 
 Robert Hooke, born in 1635. He pursued his studies in the abstract sciences 
 with singular success, obtaining a great reputation among his most learned 
 contemporaries. He was Professor of Geometry in Gresham College, wrote 
 several treatises on different branches of philosophy, and entered into con- 
 troversies with Hevelius, and on Newton's Theology of Light and Colours. 
 Created M.D. in 1691, and died in March, 1702-3. 
 
 Page 381, line 12. " Mr. Berkenshaw." 
 
 The music master of Pepys, who states that he gave him five pounds 
 for five weeks' instruction. 
 
 E 2
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 i. 
 
 (See Pages 8,9.) 
 
 THE following Letter from George Evelyn, Esq., elder brother of Mr. J. E. 
 when at College, to his father Richard at Wotton, 26 Sept., 1636, giving 
 an account of the Visit made by the King and Queen to the University 
 of Oxford, with some particulars respecting himself, contains some 
 curious matter. 
 
 " I know you have long desired to hear of my welfare, and the total series 
 of his Majesty's entertainment whilst he was fixed in the centre of our 
 Academy. 
 
 " The Archbishop our Lord Chancellor [Laud] and many Bishops, Doctor 
 Bayley our Vice-Chancellor, with the rest of the Doctors of the University, 
 together with the Mayor of the City, and his brethren, rode out in state to 
 meet his Majesty, the Bishops in their pontifical robes, the Doctors in their 
 scarlet gowns and their black caps (being the habit of the University), the 
 Mayor and Aldermen in their scarlet gowns, and sixty other townsmen all 
 in black satin doublets and in old fashion jackets. At the appropinquation 
 of the King, after the beadles' staves were delivered up to his Majesty in token 
 that they yielded up all their authority to him, the Vice-Chancellor spoke a 
 speech to the King, and presented him with a Bible in the University's 
 behalf, the Queen with Camden's Britannia in English, and the Prince Elect 
 (as I took it) with Croke's Politics ; all of them with gloves (because Oxford 
 is famous for gloves.*) A little nigher the City where the City bounds are 
 terminated, the Mayor presented his Majesty with a large gilt cup, et tenet 
 vicinitatem opinio, the Recorder of the City made a speech to his Majesty. 
 In the entrance of the University, at St. John's College, he was detained 
 with another speech made by a Fellow of the house. The speech being 
 ended, he went to Christ-church, scholars standing on both sides of the 
 street, according to their degrees, and in their formalities, clamantes, Vivat 
 Hex natter Carolus f Being entered Christ-church, he had another speech 
 
 * Gloves always made part of a present from Corporate Bodies at that time, 
 more or less ornamented with rich fringes according to the quality of the persons to 
 whom they were offered.
 
 APPENDIX. 421 
 
 made by the University orator, and student of the same house : the subject 
 of all which speeches being this, expressing their joy and his welcome to the 
 University. Then, retiring himself a little, he went to prayers ; they being 
 ended, soon after to supper, and then to the play, whose subject was the 
 Calming of the Passions ; but it was generally misliked of the Court, because 
 it was so grave ; but especially because they understood it not. This was the 
 first day's entertainment. 
 
 " The next morning, he had a sermon in Christ-church, preached by 
 Browne, the Proctor of the University, and a student of the house. The 
 sermon being ended, the Prince Elect and Prince Rupert went to St. Mary's, 
 where there was a congregation, and Prince Rupert created Master of Arts, 
 also many nobles with him. The reason why the Prince Elect was not created 
 Master of Arts, was because Cambridge our sister had created him before. 
 The congregation done, the King, Queen, and all the nobles went to the 
 Schools (the glory of Christendom) where in the public Library, his Majesty 
 heard another speech, spoken by my Lord Chamberlain's third son, and of 
 Exeter College, which speech the King liked well. From the schools the 
 King went to St. John's to dinner, where the Archbishop entertained his 
 Majesty with a magnificent dinner and costly banquet [dessert]. Then with 
 a play made by the same house. The play being ended, he went to Christ- 
 church ; and, after supper, to another play, called the Royal Slave,* all 
 the actors performing in a Persian habit, which play much delighted his 
 Majesty and all the nobles, commending it for the best that ever was acted. 
 
 " The next morning, he departed from the University, all the Doctors 
 kissing his hand, his Majesty expressing his kingly love to the University, 
 and his countenance demonstrating unto us, that he was well pleased with 
 this his entertainment made by us scholars. 
 
 " After the King's departure, there was a Congregation called, where many 
 Doctors, some Masters of Art, and a few Bachelors were created, they 
 procuring it by making friends to the Palsgrave. There were very few that 
 went out that are now resident, most of them were Lords and gentlemen. 
 A Doctor of Divinity and Bachelor of Arts were created of our house 
 [Trinity], but they made special friends to get it. 
 
 " With the 30 you sent me I have furnished me with those necessaries I 
 wanted, and have made me two suits, one of them being a black satin doublet 
 and black cloth breeches, the other a white satin doublet and scarlet hose ; 
 the scarlet hose I shall wear but little here, but it will be comely for me to 
 wear in the country. 
 
 " Your desire was that I should be as frugal in my expenses as I could, and 
 I assure you, honoured Sir, I have been ; I have spent none of it in riot or 
 toys. You hoped it would be sufficient to furnish me and discharge my 
 battels for this quarter ; but I fear it will not, therefore I humbly entreat 
 you to send me 6. I know what I have already, and with this I send for, 
 will be more than enough to discharge these months ; but I know not what 
 occasion may fall out. 
 
 Trin. Coll. Oxon, 26 July, 1636." 
 
 * By William Cartwright, a student of that College. In this play one of his 
 fellow-students (afterwards the famous Dr. Busby) performed a part (that of Cra- 
 tander) so excellently well, and with so much applause, that it is said he had almost 
 determined to commence actor on the public stage.
 
 422 APPENDIX. 
 
 II. 
 (See Page 334.) 
 
 In the Edition of Sir Richard Baker's Chronicle, published with additions 
 by Edward Philips (Milton's nephew), there is an account of the transactions 
 between Mr. Evelyn and Colonel Morley, relative to the latter'a being urged 
 by Mr. Evelyn, after Cromwell's death, to declare for the King. In a subse- 
 quent edition, in 1730, this account is considerably altered. Amongst Mr. 
 Evelyn's papers at Wotton, there is the original account drawn up by Sir 
 Thomas Clarges, and sent to Mr. Philips ; it is in Sir Thomas's own hand- 
 writing, was evidently sent to Mr. Evelyn for his perusal, and is thus indorsed 
 by him : 
 
 " Sir Thomas Clarges's (brother-in-law to the Duke of Albemarle) insertion 
 of what concerned Mr. Evelyn and Colonel Morley in continuation of the 
 History written by Mr. Philips, and added to Sir Rich. Baker's Chronicle. 
 Note that my letter to Colonel Morley was not rightly copied ; there was 
 likewise too much said concerning me, which is better, and as it ought to be 
 in the second impression, 1664." 
 
 Mr. Philips's account is as follows : 
 
 " In the seven hundred and nineteenth page of this History we omitted to 
 insert a very material negociation for the King's service, attempted upon the 
 interruption given to the Parliament by Colonel Lambert and those that 
 joined with him therein, which was managed by Mr. Evelin, of Says Court, 
 by Deptford, in Kent, an active, vigilant, and very industrious agent on all 
 occasions for his Majesty's Restoration ; who, supposing the members of 
 this suppositious Parliament could not but ill resent that affront, thought to 
 make advantage of fixing the impression of it to the ruin of the Army, for 
 the effecting whereof he applied himself to Colonel Herbert Morley, then 
 newly constituted one of the five Commissioners for the command of the 
 Army, as a person by his birth, education, and interest, unlikely to be cor- 
 dially inclined to prostitute himself to the ruin of his country and the infamy 
 of his posterity. 
 
 " Mr. Evelin gave him some visits to tempt his affection by degrees to a 
 confidence in him, and then by consequence to engage him in his designs ; 
 and to induce him the more powerfully thereunto, he put into his hands an 
 excellent and unanswerable hardy treatise by him written, called ' An 
 Apology for the Royal Party,' which he backed with so good arguments and 
 a very dextrous address in the prosecution of them, that the Colonel was 
 wholly convinced, and recommended to him the procurement of the King's 
 pardon for him, his brother-in-law, Mr. Fagg, and one or two more of his 
 relations. This Mr. Evelin faithfully promised to endeavour, and taking the 
 opportunity of Sir Samuel Tuke's going at that time into France, he by him 
 acquainted the King (being then at Pontoise) with the relation of this 
 affair, wherewith he was so well pleased as to declare if Colonel Morley, and 
 those for whom he interceded, were not of those execrable judges of his 
 blessed Royal father, they should have his pardon, and he receive such other 
 reward as his services should deserve. Upon the sending this advice to the 
 King, the Colonel left London, because of the jealousy which Fleetwood and 
 Lambert had of him ; but, before he went, he desired Mr. Evelin to cor- 
 respond with him in Sussex, by means of Mr. Fagg, his brother-in-law, who 
 then lay in the Mews. 
 
 " Mr. Evelin had good reason to believe Colonel Morley very capable of 
 serving the King at this time ; for he had a much better interest in Sussex 
 than any of his party ; whereby he might have facilitated his Majesty's
 
 APPENDIX. 423 
 
 reception in that county, in case his affairs had required his landing there ; 
 but, besides his power in Sussex, he had (as he said) an influence on two of 
 the best regiments of the Army, and good credit with many of the Officers of 
 the Fleet. 
 
 " But, before the return from France of the King's resolution in this 
 matter, there intervened many little changes in the posture of affairs. 
 
 " Upon the advance of General Monk in favour of the Parliament, and the 
 general inclination of the Army to him, Colonel Morley expected the restitu- 
 tion of that power, and with it of his own authority, and was leagued with 
 Walton and Hazlerig in a private treaty with Colonel Whetham, the Governor 
 of Portsmouth, for the delivery of that garrison to them ; and Fagg went 
 privately from London to raise a regiment in Sussex, to promote these 
 designs ; but was suppressed before he got any considerable number of men 
 together. 
 
 " Mr. Evelin, not knowing of these intrigues, in rain endeavoured by all 
 imaginable ways to communicate the King's pleasure to Morley, who was by 
 this time in the garrison of Portsmouth. 
 
 " But, when the Parliament resumed their power, and he [Morley] was 
 placed in the government of the Tower, he [Evelin] thought it expedient to 
 renew the former negociation betwixt them for his Majesty's service, and in 
 order thereunto, he often by visits made application to him, but could never 
 but once procure access ; and then he dismissed him with a faint answer, 
 ' That he would shortly wait upon him at his lodging.' 
 
 " This put Mr. Eveliii into so much passion that he resolved to surmount 
 the difficulty of access by writing freely to him, which he did in this 
 manner : 
 
 ' TO COLONEL MORLEY, LIEUTENANT OF THE TOWEE. 
 'SIR, 
 
 ' For many obligations, but especially for the last testimonies of 
 your confidence in my friendship, begun so long since, and considered so 
 When I trans- inv'o^bly through so many changes, and in so universal a 
 acted with him decadence of honour, and all that is sacred amongst men, 
 for deli very of i he I come with this profound acknowledgment of the favours 
 Tower of London, vou nave ,jone me . an j ] la( j a great desire to have made 
 ana to declare , . , ... , , . , . 
 
 for the King, a tms a personal recognition and to congratulate your return, 
 little before Ge- and the dignities which your merits have acquired, and for 
 neral Monk's, and which none does more sincerely rejoice ; could I promise 
 done, he had re! m yself the happiness of finding you in your station at any 
 ceived the honour season wherein the Public, and more weighty concernments 
 that great man did afford you the leisure of receiving a visit from a person 
 SSTio 1 ^: inconsiderable as myself 
 
 ' But, since I may not hope for that good fortune, and 
 such an opportunity of conveying my respects and the great affections which 
 I owe you, I did presume to transmit this express ; and by it, to present you 
 with the worthiest indications of my zeal to continue in the possession of 
 your good graces, by assuring yon of my great desires to serve you in what- 
 soever may best conduce to your honour, and to a stability of it, beyond all 
 that any future contingencies of things can promise : because I am confident 
 that you have a nobler prospect upon the success of your designs than to 
 prostitute your virtues and your conduct to serve the passions, or avarice, of 
 any particular persons whatsoever; being (as you are) free and incontaminate, 
 well-born, and abhorring to dishonour or enrich yourself with the spoils 
 which by others have been ravished from our miserable, yet dearest country; 
 and which renders them so zealous to pursue the ruin of it, by labouring to 
 
 * The letter following is taken from Mr. Evelyn's own copy.
 
 424 APPENDIX. 
 
 involve men of the best natures and reputation into their own inextricable 
 labyrinths, and to gratify that which will pay them with so much infamy in 
 the event of things, and with so inevitable a perdition of their precious souls, 
 when all these uncertainties (how specious soever at present) shall vanish 
 and come to nothing. 
 
 ' There is now, Sir, an opportunity put into your hands, by improving 
 whereof you may securely act for the good of your country, and the redemp- 
 tion of it from the insupportable tyrannies, injustice, and impieties under 
 which it has now groaned for so many years, through the treachery of many 
 wicked, and the mistakes of some few good men. For by this, Sir, you shall 
 best do honour to God, and merit of your country ; by this you shall secure 
 yourself, and make your name great to succeeding ages : by this you shall 
 crown yourself with real and lasting dignities. In sum, by this, you shall 
 oblige even those whom you may mistake to be your greatest enemies, to 
 embrace and cherish you as a person becoming the honour of a brave and 
 worthy patriot, and to be rewarded with the noblest expression of it ; when, 
 by the best interpretations of your charity and obedience to the dictates of a 
 Christian, you shall thus heap coals of fire upon their head ; and which will 
 at once give both light and warmth to this afflicted Nation, Church, and 
 People, not to be extinguished by any more of those impostors whom God 
 has so signally blown off the stage, to place such in their stead, as have 
 opportunities given them of restoring us to our ancient known laws, native 
 and most happy liberties. It is this, Sir, which I am obliged to wish to 
 encourage you in, and to pronounce as the worthiest testimony of my congra- 
 tulations for your return ; and which, you may assure yourself, has the 
 suffrages of the solidest and best ingredient of this whole nation. 
 
 ' And having said thus much, I am sure you will not look upon this letter 
 as a servile address ; but, if you still retain that favour and goodness for the 
 person who presents it, that I have reason to promise myself, from the 
 integrity which I have hitherto observed in all your professions ; I conjure 
 you to believe, that you have made a perfect acquisition of my service ; and, 
 that (however events succeed) I am still the same person, greedy of an 
 opportunity to recommend the sincerity of my affection, by doing you what- 
 soever service lies in my power ; and I hope you shall not find me without 
 some capacities of expressing it in effects, as well as in the words of 
 
 ' Honourable Sir, &c. 
 * COVENT GARDEN, 
 
 12th Jan. 1659-60.' 
 
 " In a note he adds : ' Morley was at this time Lieutenant of the Tower of 
 London, was absolute master of the City, there being very few of the rebel 
 army anywhere near it, save at Somerset- House a trifling garrison which was 
 marching out to re-enforce Lambert, who was marching upon the news of 
 Monk's coming out of Scotland. He was Lieutenant of all the confederate 
 counties of Sussex, Surrey, Hampshire, &c. ; his brother-in-law Governor of 
 Portsmouth and Hampshire ; his own brother William Morley Governor of 
 Arundel Castle ; in sum, he had all the advantages he could have desired to 
 have raised the well-affected of the City and Country universally breathing 
 after a deliverer (uncertain as to what Monk intended), and so had absolutely 
 prevented any [other] person or power whatever (in all appearance) from 
 having the honour of bringing in the King, before those who were in motion 
 could have snatched it out of his hand. Of all this I made him so sensible, 
 when I was with him at the Tower, that nothing but his fatal diffidence of 
 Monk's having no design to bring in his Majesty because he had [not] dis- 
 covered it whilst matters were yet in the dark (but the design certainly 
 resolved on) kept him wavering and so irresolute (though he saw the game
 
 APPENDIX. 425 
 
 sufficiently in his hands) as to sit still and put it off, till Lambert and his 
 forces being scattered and taken, Monk marched into the City triumphant 
 with his wearied army, possessed the gates, and with no great cunning and 
 little difficulty, finding how the people and magistrates were disposed (what- 
 ever his general intentions were, or at first seemed to be), boldly and 
 fortunately brought to pass that noble Revolution, following it to his eternal 
 honour by restoring a banished Prince and the people's freedom. This poor 
 Morley saw, and implored my interest by what means he might secure 
 himself and obtain his pardon. This is, in short, a true account of that 
 remarkable affair.' " 
 
 Mr. Philips goes on thus from Sir Thomas Clarges's paper : 
 " We shall not here determine what it was that induced Colonel Morley 
 (at the time of his being Lieutenant of the Tower) to decline commerce with 
 Mr. Evelyn for the King's service ; whether it was that he doubted of the 
 concurrence of his officers and soldiers, who had been long trained up in an 
 aversion to monarchy, or whether, by the entire subjection of the Army to 
 Monk, and their unity thereupon, he thought that work now too difficult, 
 which was more feasible in the time of their division. But it is most certain 
 that he took such impressions from Mr. Evelyn's discourses and this letter, 
 that ever after he appeared very moderate in his counsels, and was one of 
 the forwardest to embrace all opportunities for the good of his country ; as 
 was evident by his vigorous and hazardous opposition in Parliament to that 
 impious oath of abjuration to the King's family and line (hereafter men- 
 tioned), before it was safe for General Monk to discover how he was inclined ; 
 and by his willing conjunction and confederacy after with the General for the 
 admission of the secluded members, in proclamation for a free Parliament 
 for the King's restoration."* 
 
 * In 1815 Baron Maseres republished some Tracts relating to the Civil War 
 in England in the time of King Charles I., amongst which is " The Mystery and 
 Method of his Majesty's happy Restoration, by the Rev. Dr. John Price, one of the 
 late Duke of Albemarle's chaplains, who was privy to all the secret passages and 
 particularities of that Glorious Revolution." Printed in 1680. In this tract it is 
 stated that Monk's officers being dissatisfied with the conduct of the Rump Parlia- 
 ment, pressed him to come to some decision, whereupon, on 11 Feb. 1660, they 
 sent the letter to the Parliament, desiring them first to fill up the vacancies, and 
 then to determine their own sitting, and call a new Parliament. Dr. Price then 
 says, " The General yielded at length to their fears and counsels, and the rather, 
 for that he was assured of the Tower of London, the Lieutenant of it (Col. Morley) 
 having before offered it to him. This the noble Colonel had done in the City, 
 pitying the consternation of the citizens, when he saw what work was doing, 
 [Monk's pulling down the City-gates a few days before by order of the Rump Par- 
 liament] and what influence it would have on the country." He adds, " that 
 though the Rump did not dare to take away the General's commission as one of 
 their Commissioners for governing the Army, they struck out bis name from the 
 quorum of them, which virtually did take away his authority, and he and Morley 
 were left to stem the tide against Hazlerigg, Alured, and Walton." 
 
 These are the only mentions which he makes of Morley, by which it seems that 
 the first communication between him and Monk was when the latter had broken 
 down the City-gates, on the 9th February. 
 
 Had there been any previous concert between Monk and Morley, the latter 
 would not have wanted Mr. Evelyn's assistance to obtain his pardon, which how- 
 ever he did want, and obtained through Mr. Evelyn. See p. 336 of the present 
 volume.
 
 426 APPENDIX. 
 
 III. 
 (See Page 356.) 
 
 Narrative of the Encounter between the French and Spanish Ambassadors, at 
 the landing oftfie Swedish Ambassador, September 30, 1661.* 
 
 " There had been many troubles and disputes between the Ambassadors of 
 France and Spain for precedence in the Courts of foreign Princes, and 
 amongst these there was none more remarkable than that on Tower-hill, on 
 the lauding of an Ambassador for Sweden, 30th September, 1 660, which was 
 so premeditated a business on both sides, that the King, foreseeing it would 
 come to a quarrel, and being willing to carry himself with indifference 
 towards both, which could not be otherwise done than by leaving them at 
 liberty to take what methods they thought proper for supporting their 
 respective pretences ; but to show at the same time his concern for the 
 public tranquillity, orders were given for a strict guard to be kept upon the 
 place, and all his Majesty's subjects were enjoined not to intermeddle, or 
 take part with either side. The King was further pleased to command that 
 Mr. Evelyn should, after diligent inquiry made, draw up and present him a 
 distinct narrative of the whole affair.'' ) 
 
 This was done accordingly, and printed, but not being now to be met with, 
 except in the additions to the Biograpkia Britarmica, begun by the late 
 Dr. Kippis, and this being a work which has not been completed, and is in 
 few hands, it may not be amiss to print it from Mr. Evelyn's own copy. 
 
 A FAITHFUL AND IMPARTIAL NARRATIVE OF WHAT PASSED AT THE LANDING 
 OF THE SWEDISH AMBASSADOR. 
 
 Upon Monday last, being the 30th of September, 1661, about ten in the 
 morning, the Spanish Ambassador's coach, in which were his Chaplain with 
 some of his gentlemen, attended by about forty more of his own servants in 
 liveries, was sent down to the Tower wharf, and there placed itself near about 
 the point where the ranks of ordnance determine, towards the gate leading 
 into the bulwark. Next after him came the Dutch, and (twelve o'clock past) 
 the Swedish coach of honour, disposing of themselves according to their 
 places. About two hours after this (in company with his Majesty's coach 
 royal) appeared that of the French Ambassador, wherein were Le Marquis 
 d'Estrade, son to the French Ambassador, with several more of his 
 gentlemen, and as near as might be computed, near 150 in train, whereof 
 above forty were horsemen well appointed with pistols, and some of them 
 with carabines, musquetoons, or fuzees ; in this posture and equipage stood 
 they expecting upon the wharf, and, as near as might be, approaching to his 
 Majesty's coach, which was opposite to the stairs. About three in the after- 
 noon, the bwedish Ambassador being landed and received into his Majesty's 
 coach, which moved leisurely before the rest, and was followed by that of the 
 Swede's, the French Ambassador's coach endeavoured to go the next, 
 driving as close as possibly they could, and advancing their party with their 
 swords drawn, to force the Spaniards from the guard of their own coach, 
 which was also putting in for precedence next the King's. His Majesty's 
 coach now passed the Spaniards, who held as yet their rapiers undrawn in 
 their hands, stepping nimbly on either side of the hindmost wheels of their 
 Minister's coach, drew their weapons and shouted, which caused the French 
 coach-horses to make a pause ; but, when they observed the advantage which 
 
 * Sec page 356. "f Continuation of Heath's Chronicle.
 
 APPENDIX. 427 
 
 by this the Spanish Ambassador's coach had gained, being now in file after 
 the Swede's, they came up very near to the Spaniards, and at once pouring in 
 their shot upon them, together with their foot, then got before their coach, 
 fell to it with their swords, both which the Spaniards received without 
 removing one jot from their stations. 
 
 During this demcsle (in which the French received some repulse, and were 
 put to a second stand) a bold and dexterous fellow, and, as most affirm, with 
 a particular instrument as well as address, stooping under the bellies of the 
 French Ambassador's coach-horses, cut the ham-strings of two of them, and 
 wounded a third, which immediately falling, the coach for the present was 
 disabled from advancing farther, the coachman forced out of his box, and 
 the postillion mortally wounded, who, falling into the arms of an English 
 gentleman that stepped in to his succour, was by a Spaniard pierced through 
 his thigh. This disorder (wherein several were wounded and some slain) 
 caused those in the French coach to alight, and so enraged their party, that 
 it occasioned a second brisk assault both of horse and foot, which being 
 received with extraordinary gallantry, many of their horses retreated, and 
 wheeled off towards St. Katharine's. 
 
 It was in this skirmish that some brickbats were thrown from the edge of 
 the wharf, which by a mistake are said to have been provided by the Spanish 
 Ambassador's order the day before. 
 
 In this interim, then (which was near half an hour) the Spanish coach went 
 forward after his Majesty's with about twenty of his retinue following, who 
 still kept their countenance towards the French as long as they abode on the 
 wharf, and that narrow part of the bulwark (where the contest was very 
 fierce) without disorder ; so as the first which appeared on Tower-hill, where 
 now they were entering, was his Majesty's coach followed by the Swede's 
 Ambassador's, and next by that of Spain, with about twenty-four or thirty 
 of his liveries still disputing it with a less number of French, who came after 
 them in the rear. 
 
 And here, besides what were slain with bullets on the wharf and near the 
 bulwark whereof one was a valet de chambre of the Spanish Ambassador's, 
 and six more, amongst which were a poor English plasterer, and near forty 
 wounded, fell one of the French, who was killed just before his Highness's 
 life-guard. No one person of the numerous spectators intermeddling, 
 or so much as making the least noise or tumult, people or soldiers, whereof 
 there were three companies of foot, which stood on the hill opposite to the 
 Guards of Horse, 'twixt whom the antagonists lightly skirmished, some fresh 
 parties of French coming out of several places and protected by the English, 
 amongst whom they found shelter till the Spanish Ambassador's coach hav- 
 ing gained and passed the chain which leads in Crutched Friars, they desisted 
 and gave them over. 
 
 Near half an hour after this, came the French coach (left all this while in 
 disorder on the wharf), with two horses and a coachman, who had a cara- 
 bine by his side, and, as the officers think, only a footman in the coach, and a 
 loose horse running by. Next to him, went the Holland Ambassador's coach, 
 then the Swede's second coach. These being all advanced upon the hill, the 
 Duke of Albemarle's coach, with the rest of the English, were stopped by 
 interposition of his Royal Highness's Life-guard, which had express order to 
 march immediately after the last Ambassador's coach ; and so they went on, 
 without any farther interruption. 
 
 This is the most accurate relation of what passed, as to matter of fact, 
 from honourable, most ingenuous, and disinterested eye-witnesses ; as by his 
 Majesty's command it was taken, and is here set down. 
 
 But there is yet something behind which was necessary to be inserted into 
 this Narrative, in reference to the preamble ; and, as it tends to the utter
 
 428 APPENDIX. 
 
 dissolving of those oblique suspicions, which have any aspect on his Majesty's 
 subjects, whether spectators, or others : and therefore it is to be taken notice, 
 that, at the arrival of the Venetian Ambassador, some months since, the 
 Ambassadors of France and Spain, intending to send both their coaches to 
 introduce him, the Ambassador of Spain having before agreed with the 
 Count de Soissons that they should assist at no public ceremonies, but, upon 
 all such casual encounters, pass on their way as they fortuned to meet ; it 
 had been wished that this expedient might still have taken place. But 
 Monsieur de Strade having, it seems, received positive commands from his 
 master, that notwithstanding any such accord, he should nothing abate of his 
 pretence, or the usual respect showed upon all such occasions, he insisted on 
 putting this injunction of the king his master in execution, at arrival of the 
 Swedish Ambassador. His Majesty, notwithstanding all the just pretences 
 which he might have taken, reflecting on the disorders that might possibly 
 arise in this city, in which for several nights he had been forced to place 
 extraordinary guards ; and, because he would not seem to take upon him the 
 decision of this punctilio, in prejudice of either Ambassador, as his charitable 
 interposition might be interpreted ; his Majesty declaring himself withal no 
 umpire in this unpleasing and invidious controversy, permitted that, both 
 their coaches going, they might put their servants and dependents into such 
 a posture as they should think fittest, and most becoming their respective 
 pretences : but in the meantime commanded (upon pain of his highest dis- 
 pleasure), that none of his Majesty's subjects, of what degree soever, should 
 presume to interpose in their differences. But, in truth, the care of his offi- 
 cers, and especially that of Sir Charles Barclay, captain of his Royal High- 
 ness's life-guard (which attended this service), was so eminent and particular, 
 that they permitted not a man of the spectators so much as with a switch in 
 his hand, whom they did not chastise severely. 
 
 As to that which some have refined upon, concerning the shower of bricks 
 which fell in this contest (whether industriously placed there or no, for some 
 others of the Spanish party assigned to that post), 'tis affirmed by the con- 
 current suffrage of all the spectators, that none of them were cast by any of 
 his Majesty's subjects, till, being incensed by the wounds which they received 
 from the shot which came in amongst them (and whereof some of them 'tis 
 said, are since dead), and not divining to what farther excess this new and 
 unexpected compliment might rise, a few of the rabble, and such as stood on 
 that side of the wharf, were forced to defend themselves with what they found 
 at hand ; and to which, 'tis reported, some of them were animated by a fresh 
 remembrance of the treatment they received at Chelsea, and not long since 
 in Covent-garden, which might very well qualify this article from having any- 
 thing of design that may reflect on their superiors ; nor were it reasonable 
 that they should stand charged for the rudeness of such sort of people, as in 
 all countries upon like occasions, and in such a confusion is inevitable. 
 Those who observed the armed multitudes of French which rushed in near 
 the chain on Tower-hill, issuing out of several houses there, and corning in 
 such a tumultuous and indecent manner amongst the peaceable spectators, 
 would have seen that, but for the temper of the officers, and presence of the 
 Guards, into how great an inconveniency they had engaged themselves. Nor 
 have they at all to accuse any for the ill success which attended, if the French 
 would a little reflect upon the several advantages which their antagonists had 
 consulted, to equal that by stratagem which they themselves had gained by 
 numbers, and might still have preserved, with the least of circumspection. 
 
 It was evidently the conduct of the Spaniards, not their arms, which was 
 decisive here ; nor had his Majesty, or his people, the least part in it, but 
 what the French have infinite obligations to ; since, without this extraordi- 
 nary indulgence and care to protect them, they had, in all probability, drawn
 
 APPENDIX. 429 
 
 a worse inconveniency upon them, by appearing with so little respect to the 
 forms which are used upon all such occasions. 
 
 There need, then, no other arguments to silence the mistakes which fly 
 about, that his Majesty's subjects should have had so much as the least 
 temptation to mingle in this contest, not only because they knew better what is 
 their duty, for reverence to his Majesty's commands (which were now most 
 express) . and whose Guards were ready to interpose where any such inclina- 
 tion had in the least appeared, so as to do right to the good people spectators 
 (whose curiosity on all such occasions compose no small part of these solem- 
 nities), that report which would signify their misbehaviour is an egregious 
 mistake, and worthy to be reproved. Nor becomes it the French (of all the 
 nations under Heaven) to suspect his Majesty of partiality in this affair, 
 whose extraordinary civility to them, ever since his happy restoration, has 
 appeared so signal, and is yet the greatest ingredient to this declaration, 
 because, by the disquisition of these impartial truths, he endeavours still to 
 preserve it most inviolable. 
 
 Written by Mr. Evelyn wndemeath. 
 
 This, Sir, is what I was able to collect of that contest, by his Majesty's spe- 
 cial command, from the Right Honourable Sir W. Compton, Master of the 
 Ordnance of the Tower, and of his major present, of Sir Charles Barclay, and 
 several others, all there present, and from divers of the inhabitants and other 
 spectators, whom I examined from house to house, from the spot where the 
 dispute began, to Crutched Friars, where it ended. The rest of the reflections 
 were special hints from his Majesty's own mouth, the first time I read it to 
 him, which was the second day after the contest. 
 
 Indorsed by Mr. Evelyn. The Contest 'twixt the French and Spanish 
 Ambassadors on Tower-hill for Precedency. Note, That copies of this were 
 dispatched to the Lord Ambassador in France, who was my Lord of St. 
 Alban's. Also, another was written to be laid up and kept in the Paper 
 Oflice, at Whitehall. 
 
 END OF VOL. I.
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 VoL I., p. 310, second note, for Off Alley," read " Of Alley.' 
 p. 328, second note, dele a fine." 
 p. 363, second note, for " 1668," read 1688." 
 
 Vol. II., p. 129, for Gray," read " Grey."
 
 New and^ Revised Edition, with Numerous Passages now restored from th 
 Original Manuscript, and many additional Notes. 
 
 Now complete, in live vols. post 8vo. with Portraits, &c., price 10s. Gel. each, bound, 
 
 DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE 
 
 OF 
 
 SAMUEL PEPYS, F.R.S., 
 
 SECEETAKY TO" THE ADMIRALTY IN THE KEIGNS OF CHAUI.ES II. AND JAMES II. 
 EDITED BY 
 
 EICHAED LOED BEAYBEOOKE. 
 
 The authority of PEPYS, as an historian and illustrator of a considerable 
 portion of the seventeenth century, has been so fully acknowledged by 
 every scholar and critic, that it is now scarcely necessary even to remind 
 the reader of the advantages he possessed for producing the most com- 
 plete and trustworthy record of events, and the most agreeable picture 
 of society and manners, to be found in the literature of any nation. In 
 confidential communication with the reigning sovereigns, holding high 
 official employment, placed at the head of the Scientific and Learned of 
 a period remarkable for intellectual impulse, mingling in every circle, 
 and observing everything and everybody whose characteristics were 
 worth noting down ; and possessing, moreover, an intelligence peculiarly 
 fitted for seizing the most graphic points in whatever he attempted to 
 delineate, PEPYS may be considered the most valuable as well as the 
 most entertaining of our National Historians. 
 
 A New Edition of this work, comprising the restored passages so 
 much desired, with such additional annotations as have been called for 
 by the vast advances in antiquarian and historical knowledge during the 
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 library of the general reader. 
 
 " Pepys' Diary makes us comprehend the great historical events of the age, and the 
 people who here a part in them, and gives us more clear glimpses into the true English 
 life of the times than all the other memorials of them that have come down to our own." 
 
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 of its kind in the Eng'isli language, is therefore the only true edition of the book. The new 
 matter is extremely curirus, and occasionally far more characteristic and entertaining than 
 the old. The writer is seen in a clearer light, and the reader is taken into his inmost soul. 
 Pepys' Diary is the ablest picture of the age in which the writer lived, and a work of 
 standard importance in English literature." Athenceum. 
 
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 them within the reach of the most moderate means." Weekly Chronicle. 
 
 LADY KAYE'S BEITISH HOMES AND FOEEIGN 
 WANDEEINGS, 
 
 Two vola, 21*. 
 
 " Unrivalled as these volumes are, considered as aristocratic sketches, they are not less 
 interesting on account of the romantic history with which they are interwoven." 
 
 John Bull. 
 
 ADYENTUEES OF A GEEEK LADY, 
 
 THE ADOPTED DAUGHTER OF THK LATE QUEEN CAROLINE. 
 
 Written by Herself. 2 vols., 21a. 
 
 " The chief interest of this more than ordinarily interesting book lies in the notices it 
 furnishes of the unfortunate Queen Caroline. From the close of 1814 till Her Koyal 
 Highness's return to England, the author was never absent from her for a single day. All 
 is ingenuously and artlessly told, and the plain truth finds its way at once to the reader' a 
 judgment and feelings. " Court Journal. 
 
 CAPTAIN MARRYAT'S NEW NOVEL, 
 
 YALERIE. 
 
 Two vols. 
 
 " A very life-like and interesting story. Captain Marryat's fame will lose none of its 
 brightness by the publication of this charming autobiography." Weekly Chronicle.
 
 13, Great Marlborough Street. 
 
 MR. COLBURN'S 
 LIST OF NEW WORKS. 
 
 BURKE'S 
 
 HISTORY OF THE LANDED GENTRY; 
 & Genealogical Utcttonarjj 
 
 OF THE UNTITLED ARISTOCRACY OF ENGLAND, 
 
 SCOTLAND, AND IRELAND : 
 A COMPANION TO ALL THE PEERAGES. 
 
 2 volumes, royal 8vo., beautifully printed in double columns, 2 10s. bound. 
 
 " A work in which every gentleman will find a, domestic interest, as it contains the 
 fullest account of every known family in the United Kingdom. It is a dictionary of all 
 names, families, and their origins, of every man's neighbour and friend, if not of his own 
 relatives and immediate connexions. It cannot fail to be of the greatest utility to profes- 
 sional men in their researches respecting the members of different families, heirs to 
 property, &c. Indeed, it will become as necessary as a Directory in every lawyer's office." 
 BeWs Messenger. 
 
 " A work of this kind is of a national value. Its utility is not merely temporary, but it 
 will exist and be acknowledged as long as the families whose names and genealogies are 
 recorded in it continue to form an integral portion of the English constitution. As a 
 correct record of descent, no family should be without it." Morning Post. 
 
 THE SUPPLEMENT AND INDEX 
 
 TO 
 
 BURKE'S HISTORY OF THE LANDED GENTRY; 
 
 Completing this Important National Work. 
 
 One vol., royal 8vo. (uniform with the first two volumes), 25s. bound. 
 The SUPPLEMENT comprises the History and Genealogy of 500 additional Families, with 
 new particulars respecting the Families contained in the tirst two volumes, Corrigenda, &c. 
 The INDEX comprises references to all the names of individuals (upwards of 100,000) 
 mentioned in the work. 
 
 N.B. The Index may be had separately, price 10s. 6d. 
 
 " The vast number of new names introduced into this volume greatly increases the value 
 and interest of this laborious work. The care and accuracy observable in the history and 
 genealogy of these families fully sustain the reputation of the larger publication to which 
 this volume forms an indispensable supplement. Completed by the publication of a general 
 index, it forms the most comprehensive work of reference of its class that has ever been 
 accomplished in this country." Atlas. 
 
 WHITING] [BEAITOKT HOI M .
 
 MR. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 ANECDOTES OF THE ARISTOCRACY, 
 
 AND 
 
 EPISODES IN ANCESTRAL STORY. 
 
 By J. BERNARD BURKE, Esq., 
 
 Author of " The History of the Landed Gentry," " The Peerage and Baronetage," &c. 
 SECOND EDITION, 2 vols., post 8vo., 25s. bound. 
 
 The memoirs of our great families are replete with details of the most 
 striking and romantic interest, throwing light on the occurrences of public 
 as well as domestic life, and elucidating the causes --of many important 
 national events. How little of the personal history of the Aristocracy is 
 generally known, and yet how full of amusement is the subject ! Almost 
 every eminent family has some event connected with its rise or great- 
 ness, some curious tradition interwoven with its annals, or some calamity 
 casting a gloom over the brilliancy of its achievements, which cannot fuil 
 to attract the attention of that sphere of society to which this work more 
 particularly refers, and must equally interest the general reader, with 
 whom, in this country, the records of the higher classes have always pos- 
 sessed a peculiar attraction. The anecdotes of the Aristocracy here re- 
 corded go far to show that there are more marvels in real life than in the 
 creations of fiction. Let the reader seek romance in whatever book, and 
 at whatever period he may, yet nought will he find to surpass the unex- 
 aggerated reality here unfolded. 
 
 " Mr. Burke has here given us the most curious incidents, the most stirring tales, and 
 the most remarkable circumstances connected with the histories, public and private, of our 
 noble houses and aristocratic families, and has put them into a shape which will preserve 
 them in the library, and render them the favourite study of those who are interested in 
 the romance of real life. These stories, with all the reality of established fact, read with 
 as much spirit as the tales of Boccacio, and arc as full of strange matter for reflection and 
 amazement." Britannia. 
 
 " Two of the most interesting volumes that have ever issued from the press. There are 
 no less than one hundred and twenty-three of the most stirring and captivating family 
 episodes we ever remember to have perused. The ' Anecdotes of the Aristocracy' will be 
 read from the palace to the hamlet ; and no one can rise from these volumes without 
 deriving a useful knowledge of some chapter of family history, each connected with one or 
 other of the great houses of the kingdom." British Army Despatch. 
 
 " We cannot estimate too highly the interest of Mr. Burke's entertaining and instructive 
 work. For the curious nature of the details, the extraordinary anecdotes related, the 
 strange scenes described, it would be difficult to find a parallel for it. It will be read by 
 every one." Sunday Times.
 
 HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. 
 
 THE CASTLEREAGH LETTERS AND DESPATCHES. 
 
 Now ready, in 4 vols. 8vo., price 14s. each, printed uniformly with the WELLINGTON and 
 NELSON DESPATCHES. Vols. 3 and 4 may be had separately to complete sets. 
 
 MEMOIRS AND CORRESPONDENCE 
 
 VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH. 
 
 EDITED BY HIS BROTHER, 
 
 CHARLES VANE, MARQUIS OF LONDONDERRY, 
 G.C.B., &c. 
 
 " This valuable publication gives us a new insight into history. We are always thankful 
 to get State Papers at full length. They are the true lights of history, and its best and 
 surest materials." Athenaeum. 
 
 " A work of the highest and most universal interest. It were superfluous to insist on 
 the extraordinary interest and importance which must belong to so valuable a work as this, 
 containing so many original and authentic memorials, and curious and important docu- 
 ments, written by some of the most remarkable men of an epoch the most strange and 
 eventful." Morning Chronicle. 
 
 " The most valuable contribution to modern history that we know of is to be found in 
 these Memoirs and Correspondence of Lord Castlereagh. They are, in fact, invaluable 
 records of facts, and without them it is impossible for any man to say that, up to this 
 moment, he has had the opportunity of knowing the real history of the Irish Rebellion, or 
 the arrangements for a Union. The great value of the work is the ' Correspondence' the 
 letters which passed between Lord Castlereagh and others at the very tune the great, and, 
 in many instances, awful events to which they recur, were passing. In these documents all 
 is unreservedly exposed. There have been assertions and suspicions one one side here are 
 the statements and facts on the other. Full justice never was done, and never could be 
 done, to the acts as well as the motives of Lord Castlereagh, but by a publication such as 
 now lies before us. The more widely these volumes are circulated, the more certainly will 
 truth be vindicated, falsehood exposed, and calumny refuted." Morning Herald. 
 
 " It is very remarkable that the three great leading objects and measures of Lord Castle- 
 reagh's political life a State provision for the Roman Catholic Clergy, the Union, and the 
 great European Settlement of 1815 measures of infinitely greater importance than had 
 been for near a century and a half connected with the individual responsibility of any British 
 statesman should have been, in that great chapter of accidents which bears the date of 
 1848, brought to a trkl such as no human foresight could have anticipated, and the result 
 of which no human judgment can venture to predict." Quarterly Review.
 
 MR. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 DIARY AND CORRESPONDENCE 
 
 OP 
 
 SAMUEL PEPYS, F.R.S., 
 
 SECRETARY TO THE ADMIRALTY I>* THE REIGXS OF CHARLES II. AND JAMES II. 
 
 EDITED BY LORD BRAYBROOKE. 
 
 New and Revised Edition, with numerous Passages now restored from the Original Manu- 
 script, and many Additional Notes, complete in 5 vols., post 8vo., with Portraits, &e., 
 price 10s. Gd. each, bound. 
 
 " Pepys' Diary is now to appear in its integral state. This, the third edition of the 
 best book of its kind in the English language, is therefore the only true edition of the 
 book. The new matter is extremely curious, and occasionally far more characteristic and 
 entertaining 'than the old. The writer is seen in a clearer light, and the reader is taken 
 into his inmost soul. Pepys' Diary is the ablest picture of the age in which the writer lived, 
 and a work of standard importance in English literature." Affienceum. 
 
 " Pepys' Diary makes us comprehend the great historical events of the ago, and the 
 people who bore a part in them, and gives us more clear glimpses into the true English life 
 of the times, than all the other memorials of them that have come down to our own." 
 Edinburgh Review. 
 
 " There is much in Pepys' Diary that throws a distinct and vivid light over the picture 
 of England and its government during the period succeeding the Restoration. If, quitting 
 the broad path of historv, we look for minute information concerning ancient manners and 
 customs, the progress of arts and sciences, and the various branches of antiquity, we have 
 never seen a mine so rich as these volumes. The variety of Pepys' tastes and pursuits led 
 him into almost every department of life. He was a man of business, a man of informa- 
 tion, a man of whim, and, to a certain degree, a man of pleasure. He was a statesman, 
 a bel-esprit, a virtuoso, and a connoisseur. His curiosity made him an unwearied, as well 
 as an universal, learner, and whatever he saw found its way into his tables." Quarterly 
 Review. 
 
 " We owe Pepys a debt of gratitude for the rare and curious information he has 
 bequeathed to us in this most amusing and interesting work. His Diary is valuable, as 
 depicting to us many of the most important characters of the times. Its author has 
 bequeathed us the records of his heart, the very reflection of his energetic mind ; and his 
 quaint but happy narrative clears up numerous disputed points, throws light into many of 
 tne dark corners of history, and lays bare the hidden substratum of events which gave 
 birth to, and supported the visible progress of, the nation." Taifs Magazine. 
 
 " Of ah 1 the records that have ever been published, Pepys' Diary gives us the most 
 vivid and trustworthy picture of the times, and the clearest view of the state of English 
 public affairs and of English society during the reign of Charles II. We see there, as in u 
 map, the vices of the Monarch, the intrigues of the Cabinet, the wanton follies of the 
 Court, and the many calamities to which the nation was subjected during the memo- 
 rable period of fire, plague, and general licentiousness. In the present edition ah" the 
 suppressed passages have been restored, and a large amount ot valuable explanatory 
 notes have been added. Thus tliis third edition stands alone as the only complete one. 
 Lord Braybrooke has efficiently performed the duties of editor and annotator, and has 
 conferred a lasting favour on the public by giving thorn Pepys' Diary in its integrity." 
 Morning Post.
 
 HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. 
 
 LIVES OF THE QUEENS OF ENGMNR 
 
 BY AGNES STRICKLAND. 
 DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, TO HER MAJESTY. 
 
 Complete in 12 vols., with Portraits, price 10s. 6d. each, bound. The latter volumes 
 may be had separately, to complete sets. 
 
 " These volumes have the fascination of a romance united to the integrity of history. 
 The work Is written by a lady of considerable learning, indefatigable industry, and careful 
 judgment. All these qualifications for a biographer and an historian she has brought to 
 bear upon the subject of her volumes, and from them has resulted a narrative interesting 
 to all, and more particularly interesting to that portion of the community to whom the 
 more refined researches of literature afford pleasure and instruction. The whole work 
 should be read, and no doubt will be read, by all who are anxious for information. It is a 
 lucid arrangement of facts, derived from authentic sources, exhibiting a combination of 
 industry, learning, judgment, and impartiality, not often met with in biographers of 
 crowned heads." Times. 
 
 " This remarkable, this truly great historical work, is now brought to a conclusion. In 
 this series of biographies, in which the severe truth of history takes almost the wildness of 
 romance, it is the singular merit of Miss Strickland that her research has enabled her to 
 throw new light on many doubtful passages, to bring forth fresh facts, and to render every 
 portion of our annals which she has described an interesting and valuable study. She has 
 given a most valuable contribution to the history of England, and we have no hesitation in 
 affirming that no one can be said to possess an accurate knowledge of the history of the 
 country who has not studied her ' Lives of the Queens of England.' " Morning Herald. 
 
 " A most valuable and entertaining work. There is certainly no lady of our day who 
 has devoted her pen to so beneficial a purpose as Miss Strickland. Isor is there any other 
 whose works possess a deeper or more enduring interest. Miss Strickland is to our mind 
 the first literary lady of the age." Chronicle. 
 
 " We must pronounce Miss Strickland beyond all comparison the most entertaining 
 historian in the English language. She is certainly a woman of powerful and active mind, 
 as well as of scrupulous justice and honesty of purpose." Morning Post. 
 
 " Miss Strickland has made a very judicious use of many authentic MS. authorities not 
 previously collected, and the result is a most interesting addition to our biographical 
 library." Quarterly Review. 
 
 " A valuable contribution to historical knowledge. It contains a mass of every kind of 
 historical matter of interest, which industry and research could collect. We have derived 
 much entertainment and instruction from the work." Athenteum.
 
 MR. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 CHATEAUBRIAND'S MEMOIRS, 
 
 FROM HIS BERTH, 
 
 IN 1768, 
 TELL HIS RETURN TO FRANCE 
 
 IN 1800. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. 
 COLBURN'S EDITION. One vol., price only 5s. bound. 
 
 " Chateaubriand's History of His Own Time becomes a classic as soon as published. 
 The genius of the author is not less conspicuous in his personal history than hi his imagi- 
 native writings. The price of the book is so moderate that every one may obtain it. We 
 need not say that it will be an invaluable acquisition to every collection, small or large." 
 Britannia,. 
 
 " The appearance of this curious and amusing work, from the pen of so distinguished a 
 man as Chateaubriand, is a great acquisition to our literature. It is one of the most im- 
 portant and instructive books of the present day." Morning Herald. 
 
 " A work of peculiar and extraordinary interest. We very much doubt whether this 
 last work of one whose productions have been translated into every civilised tongue, and 
 have moved the admiration and the sympathy of millions, be not the very finest, as it is 
 absolutely the most affecting, which even Francis Rene Chateaubriand ever produced. Here 
 we have not the lyric of a moment, but the epic of his life ; not a few passing treasures 
 gathered at random, but the accumulated gaza of his entire experience. It is the work in 
 which its author's deservedly celebrated genius was most at home ; and, therefore, the work 
 in which he was most unfettered and most powerful. It has, besides, another and a 
 higher interest. It is his last legacy to the literary world it is a voice from the grave. It 
 as full of words of force, beauty, solemnity, and wisdom." Morning Post. 
 
 " The great characteristic of Chateaubriand is the impassioned enthusiastic turn of his 
 mind . Master of immense information thoroughly imbued at once with the learning of 
 classical and of Catholic times gifted with a retentive memory, a poetical fancy and a 
 painter's eye he brings to bear upon every subject the force of erudition, the images of 
 poetry the charm of varied scenery and the eloquence of impassioned feeling. Hence, 
 his writings display a reach and a variety of imagery, a depth of light and shadow, a 
 vigour of thought, and an extent of illustration, to which there is nothing comparable hi 
 any other writer, ancient or modern, with whom we are acquainted. ' His style,' says 
 Napoleon, ' is not that of Racine it is that of a Prophet.' "Blackwood's Magazine.
 
 HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED BY AUTHENTIC AND CONFIDENTIAL LETTERS, FROM VARIOUS PUBLIC 
 AND PRIVATE MANUSCRIPT COLLECTIONS. 
 
 Edited, with an Introduction and numerous Notes, by the Author of " Memoirs of Sophia 
 Dorothea," 2 vols., 8vo., 28s. bound. 
 
 BY THE SAME EDITOR, 
 
 THE COURT AM) TIMES OF CHARLES I. 
 
 Including Memoirs of the Mission in England of the Capuchin Friars in the Service of 
 Queen Henrietta Maria, by Father Cyprien de Gamache. 
 
 2 vols., 8vo., with Portrait, 28s. bound. 
 
 " These works are the most valuable aids to English history that have ever appeared." 
 Jerrold's Paper. 
 
 " Works of this kind form, perhaps, the best and most attractive portion of the litera- 
 ture of the day." Morning Post. 
 
 " These works will be found most valuable so valuable that we do not think any one 
 can have an accurate idea of the state of affairs and the condition of society in the reigns 
 of James I. and Charles I. who has not perused them. With these volumes before us we 
 actually seem to live again in the times of the Stuarts. They are truly important and 
 interesting additions to English history." Morning Herald. 
 
 " Such collections as these do more to bring us familiarly acquainted with the real 
 aspect of life in bygone times than all the essayists and historians put together." John 
 Bull. 
 
 " These valuable and interesting volumes serve to illustrate the Court and Times of the 
 first Stuart kings in a very effective manner. The reader is presented with the minutest 
 details of a period wonderfully fruitful in strange events. The gossip of the Court mingles 
 with the important details of transactions of State ; a piquant anecdote is contrasted with 
 a grave conspiracy, and a momentous discussion in the House of Commons is relieved by 
 an interesting recollection of Shakspeare's Theatre, or a lively account of Ben Jonson's 
 ' Masque.' The student of history, anxious to make himself well acquainted with the 
 chronicles of the past, should not pass over without perusal these important and interesting 
 memoirs ; while to the lover of romance, or to the diversified taste of the general reader, 
 then- romantic contents will render these volumes peculiarly attractive." Sun. 
 
 " These new historical works consist of a series of authentic letters written by influen- 
 tial and well-informed persons, and containing much information respecting the important 
 transactions that were then taking place both at home and abroad; and particularly 
 detailing the movements of the great men of the Court and Parliament. Many interesting 
 details are also riven respecting the Royal Family, both before and after the execution of the 
 King, and of the private lives of a great number of the distinguished personages who 
 flourished during this important and eventful reign, and whose names figure hi almost 
 every page. The work is a most interesting, useful, and entertaining production, .and will 
 be equally acceptable to those who read for study or amusement." Messenger.
 
 MK. COLBUKN'S NEW PUHMCATlUNS. 
 
 SIR E. BULWEE LYTTON'S NEW WORK. 
 
 In 2 vols,, post 8vo., price 15s. bound, 
 
 KING ARTHUR, 
 
 BY SIR E. BULWER LYTTON, BABT., 
 
 Author of "The New Timon." 
 
 " This grand epic of ' King Arthur' must henceforth be ranked amongst our national 
 masterpieces. In it we behold the crowning achievement of the author's life. His ambi- 
 tion cannot rise to a greater altitude. He has accomplished that which once had its 
 seductions for the deathless and majestic mind of Milton. He has now assumed a place 
 among the kings of English poetry." Sun. 
 
 " We see in ' King Arthur' a consummate expression of most of those higher powers of 
 mind and thought which have been steadily and progressively developed in Sir Bulwer 
 Lytton's writings. Its design is a lofty one, and through all its most varied extremes 
 evenly sustained. It comprises a national and a religious interest. It animates with 
 living truth, with forms and faces familiar to all men, the dim figures of legendary lore. 
 It has an earnest moral purpose, never lightly forgotten or thrown aside. It is remarkable 
 for the deep and extensive knowledge it displays, and for the practical lessons of life and 
 history which it reflects in imaginative form. We have humour and wit, often closely bor- 
 dering on pathos and tragedy ; exploits of war, of love, and of chivalrous adventure, alter- 
 nate with the cheerful lightness and pleasantry of la gaie science. We meet at every turn 
 with figures of a modern day, which we laugh to recognise in antique garb ; in short, we 
 have the epic romance in all its licences and in all its extremes." Examiner. 
 
 " The great national subject of ' King Arthur,' which Milton for a long time hesitated 
 whether he should not choose in preference to that of the ' Fall of Man,' has been at last in 
 our own day treated in a way which we. think will place ' King Arthur' among the most 
 remarkable works of genius. It will be the delight of many future generations. It is one 
 of the most entrancing poems we have ever read ; full of great and rare ideas conceived 
 hi the plenary spirit of all-believing romance strange and wonderful in incident national 
 through and through a real plant of this soil, so purely the tree of England's antiquity 
 that we love it for land's sake." Morning Post. 
 
 THE NEW TIMON: 
 
 A POETICAL ROMANCE. 
 FOURTH EDITION, 1 vol., post 8vo., 6s. bound. 
 
 " One of the most remarkable poems of the present generation remarkable in a three- 
 fold degree : its conception being strictly original its language and imagery new its ten- 
 dency eminently moral. It has beauties of no ordinary lustre ; the animus of the work is 
 essentially humanising, its plot ingenious, and its effect altogether bold, harmonious, and 
 original. No poem of equal length has issued from the English press for a number of 
 years with anything approaching to the ability of ' The New Timon' it augurs a resus- 
 citation of our Bardic glories." Sun.
 
 HISTORY AND BIOGRAPHY. 
 
 MEMOIRS MD CORRESPONDENCE 
 
 OF 
 
 SIR ROBERT MURRAY KEITH, K.B., 
 
 Minister Plenipotentiary at the Courts of Dresden, Copenhagen, and Vienna, 
 from 1769 to 1793; icith 
 
 Biographical Memoirs of Queen Caroline Matilda, Sister of George III. 
 EDITED BY MRS. GILLESPIE SMYTH. 
 
 2 vols., post 8vo., with Portraits, 25s. bound. 
 
 Sir Robert Murray Keith, it will be recollected, was one of the ablest diplomatists of 
 the last century, and held the post of Ambassador at the Court of Copenhagen, when 
 Caroline Matilda, Queen of Denmark, the unfortunate sister of George III., was involved in 
 the conspiracy of Struensee, and was only saved from the severest punishment her vindic- 
 tive enemy the Queen Mother could inflict, by the spirited interposition of the British 
 Ambassador. Sir Robert Keith also for a long period represented his Sovereign at the 
 Courts of Dresden and Vienna ; and his papers, edited by a member of his family, throw 
 considerable light on the diplomatic history of the reign of George III., besides conveying 
 many curious particulars ot the great men and events of the period. Among the variety of 
 interesting documents comprised in these. volumes, will be found Letters from Frederick, 
 King of Prussia ; Caroline Matilda, Queen of Denmark ; Princes Ferdinand of Brunswick, 
 Kaunitz, and Czartoriski; the Dukes of Cumberland, York, Queensbury, Montagu, and 
 Newcastle; Lords Stormont, St. Asnph, Heathfield, Hardwicke, Darlington, Auckland, 
 Apsley, Barrington, Stair; Counts Bentinck and Rosenberg; Baron Trenck; Field-Mar- 
 shals Conway and Keith; Sirs Walter Scott, Joseph Yorke, Nathaniel Wraxall, John 
 
 home and abroad, with those of Horace Walpole himself." Court Journal. 
 
 WALPOLE'S MEMOIRS 
 
 OF 
 
 THE REIGN OF KING GEORGE THE SECOND. 
 
 Edited, with a Preface and Notes, 
 
 BY THE LATE LORD HOLLAND. 
 
 Second Edition, revised, hi three handsome vols., 8vo., with Portraits, price only 24s. bound 
 (originally published in 4to. at 51. 5s.). 
 
 " We are glad to see an octavo edition of this work. The publisher has conferred a boon 
 on the public by the republieation." Britannia. 
 
 " A work of greater interest than has been placed before the public for a considerable 
 time. The Memoirs abound in matter which is both useful and amusing. The political 
 portions of the work are of undoubted value and interest, and embody a considerable amount 
 of very curious historical information, hitherto inaccessible even to the most determined and 
 persevering student." Morning Post.
 
 10 MR. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 LIFE AND TIMES 
 
 OF 
 
 THE EIGHT HON, HENRY GRATTAN. 
 
 By his Son, HENRY GRATTAN, Esq., M.P. 
 Cheaper Edition, 5 vols. 8vo. Vols. 4 and 5 may be had separately to complete sets. 
 
 " This truly valuable work unquestionably forms one of the most important and inte- 
 resting additions to our biographical and historical literature that our own day has produced. 
 It offers us a complete history of Ireland during the period of Grattan's life, and the only 
 efficient one which has yet been pkced on record." Naval and Military Gazette. 
 
 REVELATIONS OF PRINCE TALLEYRAND. 
 
 Edited from the Papers of the late M. COLMACHE, 
 
 THE PRINCE'S PRIVATE SECRETARY. 
 2 volumes, post 8vo., with Portrait, 21s. bound. 
 
 " A more interesting work has not issued from the press for many years. It is in truth 
 a complete BosweU sketch of the greatest diplomatist of the age." Sunday Times. 
 
 COLBURN'S AUTHORISED TRANSLATION. 
 
 Now ready, VOLUME 8, price 7s., of 
 
 M. A. THIERS' HISTORY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE CONSULATE AND THE EMPIRE. 
 
 A SEQUEL TO HIS HISTORY OF THE FRENCH REVOLUTION. 
 
 Having filled at different times the high offices of Minister of the Interior, of Finance, 
 of Foreign Affairs, and President of the Council, M. Thiers has enjoyed facilities beyond 
 the reach of every other biographer of Napoleon for procuring, from exclusive and 
 authentic sources, the choicest materials for his present work. As guardian to the 
 archives of the state, he had access to diplomatic papers and other documents of the 
 highest importance, hitherto known only to a privileged few, and the publication of which 
 cannot fail to produce a great sensation. From private sources, M. Thiers, it appears, has 
 also derived much valuable information. Many interesting memoirs, diaries, and letters, 
 all hitherto unpublished, and most of them destined for political reasons to remain so, 
 have been placed at his disposal ; while all the leading characters of the empire, who were 
 alive when the author undertook the present history, have supplied him with a mass of 
 incidents and anecdotes which have never before appeared in print, and the accuracy and 
 value of which may be inferred from the fact of these parties having been themselves eye- 
 witnesses of, or actors in, the great events of the period. 
 
 %* To prevent disappointment, the public are requested to be particular in giving their 
 orders for " COLBURN s AUTHORISED TRANSLATION."
 
 HISTOKY AND BIOGRAPHY. 1 1 
 
 BURKE'S PEERAGE AND BARONETAGE; 
 
 CORRECTED THROUGHOUT FROM THE PERSONAL COMMUNI- 
 CATIONS OF THE NOBILITY, &c. 
 
 In 1 vol. (comprising as much matter as twenty ordinary volumes), with upwards of 
 
 1500 Engravings of Arms, &c., 88s. bound. 
 
 " Mr. Burke's 'Peerage and Baronetage' is the most complete, the most convenient, 
 and the cheapest work of the kind ever offered to the public." Sun. 
 
 DIARY AND MEMOIRS OF SOPHIA DOROTHEA, 
 
 CONSORT OF GEORGE I. 
 
 Now first published from the Originals. 
 Cheaper Edition, 2 vols., 8vo., with Portrait, 21s. bound. 
 
 " A work abounding in the romance of real life." Messenger. 
 
 " A book of marvellous revelations, establishing beyond all doubt the perfect innocence 
 of the beautiful, highly-gifted, and inhumanly-treated Sophia Dorothea." Naval and 
 Military Gazette, 
 
 MEMOIRS OF PRINCE CHARLES STUART, 
 
 COMMONLY CALLED " THE YOUNG PRETENDER." 
 
 With Notices of the Rebellion in 1745. 
 
 By C. L. KLOSE, Esq. 
 
 Cheaper Edition, 2 vols., 8vo., with Portrait, 21s. bound. 
 
 " This work may justly claim the credit of being the fullest and most authentic narra- 
 tive of this great era of English history." Messenger. 
 
 LETTERS OF MARY QUEEN OF SCOTS. 
 
 Edited, with an Historical Introduction and Notes, 
 
 By AGNES STRICKLAND. 
 
 Cheaper Edition, with numerous Additions, uniform with Miss Strickland's " Lives of the 
 
 Queens of England." 2 vols., post 8vo., with Portrait, &c., 21s. bound. 
 " The best collection of authentic memorials relative to the Queen of Scots that has 
 ever appeared." Morning Chronick. 
 
 MEMOIRS OF MADEMOISELLE DE MONTPENSIER. 
 
 Written by HERSELF. 
 
 3 volumes, post 8vo., with Portrait. 
 
 " One of the most delightful and deeply-interesting works we have read for a long 
 time." Weekly Chronick.
 
 12 MR COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 NARRATIVE 
 
 OF 
 
 AN OVERLAND JOURNEY ROUND THE WORLD, 
 
 By SIR GEORGE SIMPSON, 
 
 Governor~in- Chief of the Hudson's Bay Company's Territories in 
 
 North America. 
 
 2 vols., 8vo., with Map, &c., 31s. 6d. bound. 
 
 " A more valuable or instructive work, or one more full of perilous adventure and 
 heroic enterprise, we have never met with." John Bull. 
 
 " It deserves to be a standard work in all libraries, and it will become so." Messenger. 
 " The countries of which this work gives us a new knowledge are probably destined to 
 act with great power on our interests, some as the rivals of our commerce, some as the 
 depots of our manufactures, and some as the recipients of that overflow of population 
 which Europe is now pouring out from all her fields on the open wilderness of the world." 
 Blackwood's Magazine. 
 
 MR. ROSS' YACHT VOYAGE 
 
 TO 
 
 DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN, 
 
 IN LOUD RODNEY'S CUTTER " THE IRIS." 
 
 Second Edition, 1 vol., 10s. 6d. bound. 
 
 " There is not a sporting man in the country who could peruse these volumes without 
 deriving a considerable amount of pleasure and profit from their pages. No one should 
 think of visiting Norway, Denmark, or Sweden, without consulting them." Era. 
 
 FIVE YEARS IN KAFFIRLAND: 
 
 WITH SKETCHES OF 
 
 THE LATE WAR IN THAT COUNTRY. 
 
 By MRS. HARRIET WARD 
 (WIFE OF CAPTAIN WARD, 918T REGIMENT). 
 
 Second Edition, 2 vols., post 8vo., with Portraits of Col. Somerset, the Kaffir Chief 
 Sandilla, &c., 21s. bound. 
 
 " Mrs. Ward's narrative is one of deep interest, full of exciting adventures and wild and 
 graphic descriptions of scenes the most extraordinary which coul 1 be presented to the eyes 
 of a traveller." Sunday Times. 
 
 " The fullest, clearest, and most impartial account of the Cape of Good Hope and of 
 the recent war, that has yet come before the public." Naval and Military Gazette.
 
 VOYAGES AND TRAVELS. 13 
 
 THE CRESCENT AND THE CROSS; 
 
 OR, 
 
 ROMANCE 'AND REALITIES OF EASTERN TRAVEL. 
 
 By ELIOT B. G. WARBTJRTON, Esq. 
 SEVENTH EDITION, 2 vols., with numerous Illustrations, 21s. bound. 
 
 " Independently of its value as an original narrative, and its useful and interesting in- 
 formation, this work is remarkable for the colouring power and play of fancy with which 
 its descriptions are enlivened. Among its greatest and most lasting charms is its reverent 
 and serious spirit." Quarterly Review. 
 
 " We could not recommend a hotter book as a travelling companion." United Service 
 Mwjazine. 
 
 HOCHELAGA; 
 
 ENGLAND IN THE NEW WORLD. 
 
 Edited by ELIOT WAEBURTON, Esq., 
 
 Author of " The Crescent and the Cross." 
 THIRD EDITION, 2 vols., post 8vo., with Illustrations, 21s. bound. 
 
 " We recommend ' Hochelaga ' most heartily, in case any of our readers may as yet be 
 unacquainted with it." Quarterly Revieic. 
 
 " This work has already reached a third edition. We shall be surprised if it do not go 
 through many. It possesses almost every qualification of a good book grace, variety, and 
 vigour of style a concentrated power of description, which has all the effect of elaborate 
 painting information carefully collected and judiciously communicated sound and en- 
 larged views of important questions a hearty and generous love of country and the 
 whole pervaded by a refined but sometimes caustic humour, which imparts a constant 
 attraction to its pages. We can cordially recommend it to our readers, as well for the 
 amusement of its lighter portions, the vivid brilliancy of its descriptions, and the solid 
 information it contains respecting Canada, and the position generally of England in the 
 new world." John Bull 
 
 LORI) LINDSAY'S LETTERS ON THE HOLY LAND. 
 
 FOURTH EDITION, revised and corrected, 1 vol., post 8vo., 10s. Gd. bound. 
 " Lord Lindsay has felt and recorded what he saw with the wisdom of a philosopher, and 
 the faith of an enlightened Christian." Quarterly Rerieti'.
 
 14 ME. COLBUKN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 STORY OF THE PENINSULAR WAR. 
 
 A COMPANION VOLUME TO MR. GLEIG'S 
 "STOKY OF THE BATTLE OF WATERLOO." 
 
 With six Portraits and Map, 7s. 6d. bound. 
 
 " Every page of this work is fraught with undying interest. We needed such a book as 
 this ; one tnat could give to the rising generation of soldiers a clear notion of the events 
 which led to the expulsion of the French from the Peninsular." United Service Gazette. 
 
 LORD CASTLEREAGH'S NARRATIVE 
 
 OF HIS 
 
 JOURNEY TO DAMASCUS, 
 
 THROUGH EGYPT, NUBIA, ARABIA PETR^EA, PALESTINE & SYRIA. 
 
 2 vols., post 8vo., with Illustrations, bound. 
 
 " These volumes are replete with new impressions, and are especially characterised by 
 great power of lively and graphic description." New Monthly. 
 
 ADVENTURES IN BORNEO OF CHARLES 
 MEREDITH: 
 
 A TALE OF SHIPWRECK. 
 
 Second Edition, 1 vol., post 8vo., 7s. Gd. bound. 
 
 " A heart-touching story of shipwreck in the Bornean seas and captivity amongst the 
 savage Dyaks. The beauty and earnestness of style, combined with the history of the 
 many-coloured web of strange destinies undergone by the hero, young Meredyth, cannot 
 fail to recommend this volume to a large circle of readers." Morning Chronicle. 
 
 " One of the most interesting stories of real life that we have ever met with." Nautical 
 Magazine. 
 
 THE NEMESIS IN CHINA; 
 
 COMPRISING A COMPLETE 
 
 HISTORY OF THE WAR IN THAT COUNTRY; 
 
 With a Particular Account of the Colony of Hong Kong. 
 
 From Notes of Captain W. H. HALL, R.N., and Personal Observations 
 
 by W. D. BERNARD, Esq., A.M., Oxon. 
 
 CHEAPER EDITION, with a new Introduction. 
 1 vol., with Maps and Plates, 10s. 6d. bound. 
 
 " Capt. Hall's narrative of the services of the Nemesis is full of interest, and will, wo 
 are sure, be valuable hereafter, as affording most curious materials for the history of steam 
 navigation." Quarterly Review. 
 
 " A work which will take its place beside that of Captain Cook." Weekly Chronicle.
 
 MISCELLANEOUS. 15 
 
 A SEW SYSTEM OF GEOLOGY. 
 
 BY THE 
 
 VERY EEV. WILLIAM COCKBURN, D.D., DEAN OP YORK. 
 
 Dedicated to Professor Sedgwick. 
 
 Small 8vo., price 3s. Gd. 
 
 ZOOLOGICAL RECREATIONS. 
 
 By W. J. BRODERIP, Esq., F.R.S. 
 SECOND EDITION, WITH ADDITIONS, 1 vol., post 8vo., 10s. 6<L bound. 
 
 " We believe we do not exaggerate in saying that, since the publication of White's 
 ' Natural History of Selborne,' and of the ' Introduction to Entomology,' by Kirby and 
 Spence, no work in our language is better calculated than the ' Zoological Recreations' to 
 fulfil the avowed aim of its author to furnish a hand-book which may cherish or awaken 
 a love for natural history." Quarterly Review. 
 
 THE OLD JUDGE ; OR, LIFE IN A COLONY. 
 
 By the Author of " Sam Slick, the Clockmaker ;" &c. 
 
 2 vols., post 8vo., 21s. bound. 
 
 " Full of the Clockmaker's shrewdness and quaint comicalities." Examiner. 
 
 " There is a fund of wit and wisdom in these amusing volumes." Sun. 
 
 " These volumes are redolent of the hearty fun and strong masculine sense of our old 
 friend Sam Slick. The last work of Mr. Haliburton is quite equal to the first. Every page 
 of the ' Old Judge' is alive with rapid, fresli sketches of character ; droll, quaint, racy say- 
 ings; good-humoured practical jokes ; and capitally told anecdotes." Morning Chronicle. 
 
 ADVENTURES OF A MEDICAL STUDENT. 
 
 By the late R. DOUGLAS, Surgeon, R.N. 
 
 WITH A MKMOIR OF THE AUTHOR. 3 Vols. 
 
 " A most remarkable series of narratives, remarkable for the power we will not hesi- 
 tate to add, the genius with which the whole of them are treated." John Bull. 
 
 ADVENTURES OF THE GORDON HIGHLANDERS 
 
 IN SPAIN, FRANCE, AND BELGIUM. 
 
 By J. GRANT, Esq., late 62nd Regt. 
 CHEAPER EDITION, the 4 vols. bound in 2, price 21s. 
 
 " Since the days of the ' Subaltern' there has appeared no such admirable work as this." 
 Observer.
 
 16 MR. COLBURN'S NEW PUBLICATIONS. 
 
 THE MIDNIGHT SUN: A TALE. 
 
 By FREDRIKA BREMER ; 
 
 TRANSLATED by MARY HOWITT. 1 vol., post 8vo., 10s. 6d. bound. 
 
 " ' The Midnight Sun' is to be read, not so mucS'as a novel, to be galloped over at a sitting, 
 but, as we turn to the ' Vicar of Wakefield,' to ' The Exiles of Siberia,' and other stories of 
 the same class, for improvement." Critic. 
 
 " Of all Miss Bremer's tales, ' The Midnight Sun' is likely to be the most popular in 
 this country. In delineating the struggles of the heart Miss Bremer is unrivalled." 
 Britannia. 
 
 THE HALL AND THE HAMLET. 
 
 By WILLIAM HOWITT, 
 
 Author of " The Book of the Seasons," " Rural Life in England," &c., 
 CHEAPER EDITION, 2 vols., post 8vo., 12s. bound. 
 
 " This work is full of delightful sketches and sweet and enchanting pictures of rural life. 
 In these volumes there is more originality, more wit, more humour, more pathos, than in 
 any of those which have already issued from the same pen." Sunday Times. 
 
 THE ENGLISH GENTLEWOMAN; 
 
 OR, 
 
 A PRACTICAL MANUAL FOR YOUNG LADIES ON THEIR 
 ENTRANCE INTO SOCIETY. 
 
 BY A LADY. 
 
 New and cheaper Edition, 1 vol., price 5s. bound. 
 
 " Every young lady may read this volume with very great advantage so excellent, so 
 judicious, and so discriminating is the advice as to occupation, studies, dress, amusements, 
 behaviour, religious duties," &c. John Bull. 
 
 THE ENGLISH MATRON; 
 
 OB, 
 
 A PRACTICAL MANUAL FOR YOUNG WIVES. 
 
 Forming a Sequel to " The English Gentlewoman." 
 New and cheaper Edifion, 1 vol., price 5s. bound. 
 
 " The value of such a work as this is incalculable. Every chapter points the way to 
 domestic comfort, pence, and happiness ; every page is redolent of family and social blessing. 
 Our countrywomen have to thank the author for such a guide. The work treat.s of every 
 7iiatronly duty, from the days of courtship to t;.o end of all. To sum up, this i.s a volume 
 to form correct and virtuous wives, and good and affectionate mothers ; we can give no 
 higher encomium." Literary Gazette.
 
 m
 
 000 778485 3 
 
 NEW AND CHEAPER EDITIO 
 
 or 
 
 INTERESTING WORKS. 
 
 LA.TELY PUBLISHED BY MR. COLBURN. 
 
 Sir E. Bulwer Lytton's King Arthur, 1 v 10 6 
 
 Sir E. Bulwer Lytton's New Timon, 1 v 6 < 
 
 Disraeli's Conhigsby, IT 6 
 
 Disraeli's Sybil, 3 v 15 I 
 
 Disraeli's Tancred, 3 v 15 I 
 
 Disraeli's Contarini Fleming, 3 v 15 
 
 Pepy's Diary and Correspondence, 5 v. each 10 6 
 
 Warburton's Crescent aud Cross, 2 v 110 
 
 Warburton's Hochelaga, 2 v 110 
 
 Walpole's Reign of George II., 3 v 140 
 
 Lord Lindsay's Letters on the Holy Land, 1 v 7 6 
 
 Broderip's Zoological Recreations, 1 v 076 
 
 StoryofthePeninsularWar.lv 076 
 
 Lord Castlereagh's Journey to Damascus, 2 v 15 
 
 Fitzroy's Voyage Round the World, 3 v 1 11 6 
 
 Ross' Yacht Voyage to Denmark, &c., 1 > 10 6 
 
 Capt. Hall's Nemesis in China, 1 t 10 6 
 
 Howitt's Hall and Hamlet, 2 v 12 
 
 Lady Blcssington's Conversations with Byron, 1 r 070 
 
 Letters of Mary, Queen of Scots, 2 v 1 1 
 
 Ward's Five Years' in Kaffirlaud, 2 v 1 1 
 
 Revelations of Russia, 2 v 1 I 
 
 Mrs. Trollope's Travels and Travellers, 2 v 10 
 
 Letters of Illustrious Ladies, 3 v 18 
 
 Lady Hester Stanhope's Memoirs, 3 v 110 
 
 Lady Hester Stanhope's Travels, 3 v 18 
 
 Memoirs and Diary of Sophia Dorothea, 2 v 1 1 
 
 Klose's Memoirs of Prince Charles Stuart, 2 v 110 
 
 Bush's Memoirs of the Queens of France, 2 v. 012 
 
 Elwood's Literary Ladies of England, 2 v 12 
 
 Lady Morgan's Woman and her Master, 2 v 16 
 
 Lady Morgan's Life of Salvator Rosa, 2 r 16 
 
 Lady Morgan's Italy, 3 v 18 
 
 Campan's Memoirs of Marie Antoinette, 2 v 12 
 
 Life and Letters of the Empress Josephine, 3 v 15 
 
 Bourrienne's Memoircs de Napoleon (French) 5 v 1 5 
 
 Golovine's Russia under Nicholas I., 2 v 16 
 
 White's Three Years in Constantinople, 3 r 1 1 
 
 Vigne's Travels in Cashmere, 2 T 110 
 
 Townsend's Memoirs of the House of Commons, 2 v 110 
 
 Cobbold's Zenon the Martyr, 3 T 15 
 
 Cobbold's History of Margaret Catchpole, 1 r 010 6 
 
 Cobbold's Mary Anne Wellington, 1 r r J. 10 6 
 
 ^ *VO 
 HENRY COLBURN. PUBLISHER, 13, GT. MARLBOROUOU STREET.