THE LIFE OF SIR FREDERICK WELD G.C.M.G. G r . THE LIFE OF SIR FREDERICK WELD G.C.M.G. A PIONEER OF EMPIRE BY ALICE, LADY LOVAT s WITH A PREFACE BY SIR HUGH CLIFFORD, K.C.M.G. " LET all the ends thou aim'st at be thy country's, thy God's, and truth's." SHAKESPEARE. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W. 1914 All rights reserved TO THE TEN SURVIVING CHILDREN OF SIR FREDERICK AND LADY WELD AND TO THE MEMORY OF THEIR SONS DOM JOSEPH BASIL WELD OF THE ORDER OF ST. BENEDICT WHO DIED IN THE SERVICE OF GOD ON FEBRUARY 27, 1908 AND TO OSMUND OF THE COLONIAL CIVIL SERVICE WHO DIED IN THE SERVICE OF HIS COUNTRY ON JULY 14, 1910 FOREWORD SIR FREDERICK WELD'S career is set forth with sufficient terseness and no undue flattery in the obituary notices of the three countries New Zealand, Australia, and the Malay Peninsula in which his life's work lay. They are the justification for the claim the author makes for him of ranking as a Pioneer of Empire. In the leading newspaper of the first of these countries it is said that : " In 1844 he arrived in New Zealand, and was returned to Parliament at its first session, held in Auckland in 1854. The same year he was appointed a member of the Executive Council. In 1860 he was made Native Minister, but resigned in 1861. In 1864 he was entrusted with the formation of a ministry ; his policy of self-reliance, which involved his sending back to England the Imperial troops, was accepted by the Secretary of State and favourably commented on by both Houses of Parliament in England. In 1865 he again resigned office. He was the first to explore the province of Nelson, and some of the uninhabited districts of the Middle Island. He was the author of several papers and pamphlets, etc. Hints to Intending Sheep Farmers in New Zealand, which has passed through two or three editions ; ' On the great Volcanic Eruption of Mauna Loa (Sandwich Islands), 1885, and the ascent of that Mountain,' published in the Journal of the Geological viii FOREWORD Society. Also ' Notes on New Zealand Affairs, 1869.' It was said of him that ' he introduced the self- reliant policy into New Zealand, dispensing with the aid of British troops, which, while costing the British ratepayer about two and a half millions a year, embittered the relation between the Mother Country and the Colony, and was entailing heavy burdens and imminent bankruptcy upon the latter. He be- lieved in using small bodies of men trained to bush fighting, in making roads, and in removing grievances that might exist.'" l We take a similar record of Sir Frederick's life in Australia from a West Australian paper : " Sir Frederick Weld possessed all the qualities to make him an ideal governor of a new and struggling colony. A skilful administrator, a clever statesman, an explorer of no mean repute, and a practical farmer and squatter, the care which he gave to the pre- paration of many beneficial projects was only equalled by his firmness in carrying them out. In Western Australia his abilities had ample scope. At his coming he found the country in a lethargic condition, knowing almost nothing, and caring as little about the rest of the world. He at once took up the work of bettering her position, inspiring her to higher ambitions, stirring her to a more active life, and bringing to the task an indomitable will and all the gathered wisdom of a rarely varied career, he achieved a success that can be looked upon as little less than wonderful. Short as his tenure of office was, he was able to say of the Colony long before its close, ' At last she moves' a statement which describes a course of progress due to his enlightened policy, then visibly beginning and which has never been entirely inter- 1 Morning Post, Wellington, New Zealand. FOREWORD ix rupted. Sir Frederick Weld was the originator of the movement which has conferred upon us the free Constitution we now enjoy ; he gave to the country its first telegraph line, its first steamboat service, and its first railway line." * The following testimony is given to Sir Frederick Weld's work in the Straits Settlements : " Perhaps the greatest claim that he has upon the gratitude of the people of the Colony is the extra- ordinary success which has resulted from the vigorous but careful policy which he has pursued with un- flagging energy in the Native States. Few of our readers can realise the state of anarchy in which these States were plunged when Sir Frederick Weld assumed the reins of government. It appears incredible to the traveller, as he steps into his carriage at the railway station on the lines of the Native States, that such a short time has elapsed since nearly the whole peninsula suffered under the misgovernment of native rulers. Sir Frederick Weld has withstood with his usual cheerful courtesy a certain amount of hostile criticism. ... He has made a bloodless conquest of the Peninsula, and roads and railways have been among his most trusted agents in achieving his peace- ful victories. . . . Singapore has been wonderfully improved of late years. A number of important buildings which were much wanted have been erected, and the place fortified, thanks to the persistent efforts of Sir Frederick Weld in impressing on the Home Government the absolute necessity of providing us with adequate means of defence. We have also to report great improvements made in the lighting of the Straits, and the establishment of a Forestry De- partment, and of European and Sikh contingents." 1 Western Australian Record, Perth. x FOREWORD The author gratefully acknowledges the help and encouragement given her by Sir Hugh Clifford, K.C.M.G. She has also been much indebted to the late Rev. Dom Basil Weld, O.S.B., for the materials for his father's biography collected by him, and to his researches into the Weld pedigree ; and to the author of Lulworth Castle and its Neighbourhood ; and to Sir Henry McCallum, G.C.M.G. She has also made great use in the Life of Sir Frederick Weld of the following books : Swainson's New Zealand and its Colonisation ; Fox's War in New Zealand] Major Richardson's Our Constitutional History ; Whitmore's Last Maori War ; Wise's Australian Commonwealth ; Fenton's Tas- mania ; Sir Frank Swettenham's The Real Malay ; McNair's Per ok and the Malays ; Sir Stamford Raffles 's Memoirs, and the Journal of the Royal Colonial Institute. PREFACE AT Lady Lovat's request, and almost at a moment's notice, I furnish a preface to this biography ; and I am glad that the task has been assigned to me, because an opportunity is thus afforded to me of paying a tribute of love and respect to one of my father's oldest friends, to the first Colonial Governor under whom I ever served, and to a man to whom I was deeply attached. Though the author of this book has been mainly concerned with the delineation of the personality of Sir Frederick Weld, the incidents of her hero's life were of such a character that the story of it forms naturally a series of chapters in the early history of some of Great Britain's most interesting and im- portant Colonies and Possessions. Young Weld went out to New Zealand as a squatter at a time when the Maori was still in full possession of the lands of his ancestors. He left it twenty-six years later after having filled the post of Premier of the Colony at a season of peculiar difficulty and danger leaving behind him as a heritage the memory of the " Weld or self-reliant policy," the keynote of which was the theory that a colony capable of self-government must trust to itself and to its own resources, courage, and energy, and cannot for ever, without loss of self- respect, continue to look to Great Britain to fight for, protect, and mother it. He was appointed successively Governor of Western Australia and Governor of Tasmania, and xii PREFACE held these posts for five and a half and for six years respectively. Finally, in 1880, he became Governor of the Straits Settlements, and filled that position, save for one year's leave in England his first return to his home for a decade and a half until the middle of 1887. Thus from the age of twenty, until he was a man of sixty-four, his life and his life's work were bound up successively with the history of the Colony which he helped to make, and with that of those other Colonies over which he was set to rule and whose destiny he did much to fashion. Leaving aside, therefore, the personality of the man and to those who knew Sir Frederick Weld his personality was the supreme attraction the record of his life has inevitably attaching to it a wider, larger interest than is to be inspired ordinarily by even the most vivid portrait of a fine and noble character. The statesman is born. The administrator is made. For the task of administration (or so some of us think) is as much an acquired craft or trade as the science of the electrical engineer, or the skill of the expert fashioner of patent-leather boots. It is a hazy appreciation of this fact that has led Great Britain which has, the gods be praised, a happy knack of stumbling and blundering into the only safe path to entrust the work of administration for the most part to her permanent officials, and to confide questions of statesmanship to their Parlia- mentary Chiefs. Weld, there can, I think, be little doubt, was far more a statesman than an adminis- trator. It was the statesman's instinct, rather than the skilled hand and the tempered experience of the administrator, which stood him and his successive Colonies in the best stead. It w r as this gift of states- manlike vision which directed the course he shaped, and persuaded others to follow, during the troublous times that beset New Zealand in its most critical PREFACE xiii period of transition. It was this, above all, that enabled him to view the essentials in the problems of the Protected Malay States, during a peculiarly critical moment in their somewhat tempestuous infancy, to see so clearly, through all the obscuring littlenesses of that time, the brilliant future which we know to-day, and with imaginative brain and calm, steady hand, to order all things for the attain- ment of that future. And it was part of the superlative good fortune which has almost invariably attended the now Federated Malay States (their very balance-sheet reads like a fairy-tale, no less), that with the hour of their need came the man. Nay, not the man, but the men. What an exceptionally strong combination of outstanding men he had at his disposal. As I look back across the gulf of thirty years which divides me from those days, it seems to me that then there were giants in the land. To aid him in the Colony, Weld had Sir Cecil Clementi Smith, " out and away the best Colonial Secretary that I have ever had," was the late Lord Stanmore's verdict on him, spoken to the present writer, the late Sir William Maxwell, one of my predecessors on the Gold Coast, a man of quite exceptional administrative and literary ability, whose sad and premature death robbed the Empire of a great servant. In the Native States he had Sir Hugh Low, Resident of Perak from 1877 to 1889, who reimported into the Peninsula from Borneo the cult of dealing with Malays, which had been transmitted to him from Stamford Raffles through the first Rajah Brooke ; and such men as the late Sir John Rodger (another of my predecessors on the Gold Coast), as poor Martin Lister, most lovable of mankind, as Sir Frank Swettenham, who himself afterwards rose to be Governor of the Straits, and a host of others. Yet it was Sir Frederick Weld's vivid and personal xiv PREFACE interest in the affairs and politics of the Malay States ; his long journeys through our jungles ; his indefatigable efforts to acquaint himself with all that was going forward, of all that was doing, or all that remained to be done ; his generous appreciation of good work, and his hatred of the shirker and the inefficient, which drew from all the best of his officers the best of which they were capable. Before he had been a year in the country he had grasped the essential fact that for a prolonged period the administration of these new, raw lands would call for a greater measure of elasticity than can, alas, be secured under the more rigid and precise Crown Colony system ; and seeing this, he pronounced a definite and authorita- tive opinion against annexation. He perceived quite clearly that, at the long last, the internal adminis- tration of the Native States would have to be assimilated very closely to that of the Colony ; and in our own time that process of assimilation has been made practically complete. He made it his business to see, however, that it should be a slow, a gradual, and a natural growth ; and to this unquestionably is due in a large measure the phenomenal rapidity with which the Native States were developed, and the cordial understanding which has long subsisted between the Malay rajas and chiefs and their white advisers. Annexation would have transformed them into our unforgiving enemies. I have said that Sir Frederick Weld was a states- man rather than an administrator ; and during the years of his tenure of the Governorship of Singapore the opinion was held by not a few malcontents that the Colony and its affairs were receiving scant attention, and that the Native States bulked too big upon the Governor's mental horizon. There was some truth in this contention ; but while Sir Cecil Clementi Smith filled the post of Colonial Secretary, PREFACE xv there was no grievance, since all felt that the guidance of purely colonial politics was in very safe and very capable hands. Later, however, though the Native States continued to "swear by" Sir Fred- erick Weld, it is undeniable that his reputation in the Colony suffered some eclipse during the last two years of his administration. But the statesman was ever busy, hand and heart and brain, building more surely than perhaps even he knew, the foundations upon which such a stupendous monument of success has since been reared. He had little time to give to gross details of administration ; yet, in the view of some of the smaller folk around him, these were the problems which should have claimed priority over all mere Native States' affairs. But it is of Sir Frederick Weld, the man, rather than of Sir Frederick Weld, the statesman, that I would here write. Very tall, slim and erect, with great ease and grace of carriage, he looked all men in the face, with a certain modest yet frank self-confidence which betrayed itself in the most naive ways. It is only Sir Fred, I fancy, who would have had at once the nerve and the simplicity to read Tennyson's Ode on the Death of the Duke of Wellington aloud to the poet, in order to compare his own and his host's elocu- tionary styles, and fearlessly to demand the great man's verdict thereon. He was remarkably handsome, when I knew him as a man of over sixty, with his white hair and white Dundreary whiskers, his fine figure, his calm, honest, pale blue eyes, the transparent case- ments out of which there looked a soul utterly at peace with its God, with its neighbours, and with itself. He had more brains, more experience, and fewer sorrows than Colonel Newcome ; but the essential character of the man was singularly like that xvi PREFACE with which Thackeray endowed his hero. Incapable of a meanness or of deception himself, he was apt to read into those about him finer qualities than they in fact possessed. It was as though a glamour shed from his own purity of thought and intention illumined others, in his eyes, with the glow of virtues to which they could lay no claim ; and even as a boy, I remember registering the silent opinion that he was a singularly bad judge of men. But on the whole, I think, this betrayed him into few mistakes. No one who came in contact with him could withstand the spell of his peculiar charm, the innate nobility of his character, the principles so exalted, by which his life was guided, that any departure from them by so much as a hair's breadth, never, I think, presented itself to his imagination in the light of a possibility. And for such a man other men will usually work well, impelled by shame, it may be, if they be not stimulated by example. To me, when I joined the Civil Service of the Malay State of Perak as a lad of seventeen, he and his were more than kind and welcoming ; and I loved this splendid old fellow with all a boy's enthusi- asm. Practical man of action though he had been all his days, he delighted in poetry and literature of all kinds; and this too was a bond between us. I was fortunate, moreover, in that he gave me the opportunity to serve him in 1887, by obtaining the Sultan of Pahang's promise to conclude a treaty with the British Government, which eventually led to the protection of that large State. He had been rather severely criticised for having had the boldness to entrust a special mission of some delicacy and difficulty to so young a man I was at that time not quite one-and-twenty and I think I can see him now, dressed in sleeping- jacket and sarong, and with disordered hair, tramping about his bedroom in PREFACE xvii exclamatory delight when, having arrived in Singa- pore unexpectedly in the middle of the night, after an absence of three months, I woke him up to tell him the result of my mission just as the dawn was breaking. A statesman, honest, fearless, noble, kind ; inspired by a wonderful and perfectly unostenta- tious piety ; and beyond all things simple, so that the boy's heart in him was never subdued, and the purity of the boy never tarnished, he dwells in my memory, and so must always dwell, as perhaps the finest gentleman that I have ever known. HUGH CLIFFORD. CHRISTIANSBORG CASTLE, THE GOLD COAST. CONTENTS PAGE THE WELD PEDIGREE xxvii CHAPTER I Frederick Weld's early recollections, at home and abroad His college life He completes his education at the Friburg University Hesitations over a career Decides on colonisa- tion in New Zealand i CHAPTER II He embarks in a sailing vessel Adventures on board Lands at New Plymouth Meets with relations at Wellington They start for the bush Vavasour and Weld drive the first flock of sheep ever landed in New Zealand Their ex- periences as sheep-managers The colonists are threat- ened with starvation, and inundations Bush life in the Wairarapa 14 CHAPTER III Description of New Zealand : its colonisation Discouragement given to the New Zealand Company The cause of it The Treaty of Waitangi The Massacre of Wairau In- glorious ending of the New Zealand Company Character- istics of the Maori nation Their passion for war Partial pacification of natives between 1848 and 1860 ... 32 CHAPTER IV Weld takes a share in a sheep-station Description of Warekaka Exploration in search of ground for a sheep-run A native pah The Tangi Ware-homa, the house of losing Troubles with the Maories Heki's attack on the settlement in the Bay of Islands : subsequent bloodshed Fitzroy is succeeded as Governor by Grey Hutt campaign Weld's adventures at the Muka-Muka pah More adventures with natives, and explorations The new station of Flaxbourne . 48 CHAPTER V Sporting experiences at Flaxbourne by land, lake, and sea The political situation in New Zealand Sir George Grey postpones the grant of Representative government to the xix xx CONTENTS PAGE colony Weld refuses a seat on nominee Council Takes a leading part in an association for the defence of settlers' rights More explorations Starts a new run, Stonyhurst Embarks for England His joy at seeing his family and resuming his old habits Death of his father Return to New Zealand Representative government given to the colony Weld is elected for Wairau Colonel Wynyard sends for Fitzgerald, and he invites Weld, Dillon-Bell, and Sewell to join him Ministry falls through tenacity of the "old gang" Weld starts with Hon. J. Wortley for the hot springs Visits Ohinemutu The pink and blue stalactite terraces They make the ascent of the Mauna Loa He returns to Wellington Sails for England Meets Miss de Lisle Phillipps They are engaged and married He nearly dies of typhoid fever They return (1860) to New Zealand 76 CHAPTER VI The Maori point of view Results of native land league Governor Gore Browne holds a meeting at Taranaki Teira defies land league War declared by the Maories A dissolution enables Weld to get into Parliament He is appointed minister for native affairs A patched-up peace with the natives Gore Browne replaced by Sir George Grey The " flour and sugar " government Grey's seizure of Tataraimaka, followed by declaration of war General Cameron takes the field with 15,000 men Meeting of General Assembly Native affairs by order of the Colonial Office are handed over to colonists The Assembly votes ^3,000,000 to carry on the war Weld maintains an in- dependent part in politics Varying fortunes of the war Outbreak (1864) of the Hau Hau fanaticism Horrors com- mitted by the Maories Desperate financial difficulties of the colony Grey sends for Weld to ask his assistance in "saving the country" He consents on his own terms The " self-reliant " policy He forms a ministry, and secures large majority in both Houses Prosecution of the war Colonial forces carry all before them Parliament meets Various beneficial measures are carried Weld breaks down in health Is defeated on a question of taxation Resigns He is succeeded by Stafford Weld's last speech in the House He returns an invalid to Brackenfield Collapse of the Stafford administration A coalition Weld and his family embark for England in 1867 Summing up of his career in New Zealand 105 CONTENTS xxi CHAPTER VII PAGE Weld's continued interest in New Zealand Appeal to him from the Press to return there The last Maori war Weld accepts Governorship of Western Australia (1869) Dinner given to him before his departure He and his family set out for Sydney Breakdown of s.s. Baldutha on their way to King George's Sound Received with much acclaim at the seat of Government, and at Fremantle Letters to Right Hon. W. Monsell, describing the situation in Western Australia A sketch of the land laws in Australia 144 CHAPTER VIII Early history of the Swan River Colony Its first Governor The expansion of its bounds It is forced by poverty to apply for convicts Success of the experiment A blot on the annals of the colony The loss to the community when it ceased to be a penal settlement Trade depression, at an acute stage when Weld was appointed Governor He starts on a tour through the settled districts : York, Northam, Newcastle, and New Norcia Sketch of the Benedictine Settlement Weld's horse falls under him He continues journey with a broken rib Inspects the Geraldine copper mines, and the Murchison district Returns to Perth in December Starts in January 1870 for the Black wood district Weld sums up his opinions of the prospects of the colony, after visiting these settlements, in a speech at Bunbury Dispatch to Lord Kimberley describing the features of the country Weld equips expedition headed by Mr. John Forrest to explore the hinterland of the Great Australian Bight A Bill is passed giving Representative government to the colony - . 162 CHAPTER IX A year's progress by Western Australia Opposition headed by " convict press " Weld encourages immigration He sums up causes for stagnancy in the colony An Education Bill passed Letter from Sir James Ferguson The (so-called) Disestablishment Bill A dispatch describing Albany and its neighbourhood The Governor takes a journey to the north-west, visiting Roebourne on his way He is laid up on his return by severe fit of gout Visit of British squadron to Australian waters H.M.S's Clio and Cossack Officers are treated to kangaroo hunt, balls, and races Trial of a settler for murder of native His condemnation, followed by commutation of sentence Continued progress of Western Australia commented upon by the Governor in his message to the Legislative Council ....... 192 xxii CONTENTS CHAPTER X PAGE Letter to Lord Kimberley from Victoria plains A black post- mistress Weld visits coal seam discovered by Gregory early in the century Also lead and silver mines Inspects site of proposed railway between Champion Bay and Northampton Weld's New Zealand affairs He asks for leave to go to New Zealand to settle matters between him- self and partner He starts in February 1874 Spends a week at Sydney the guest of Sir H. Robinson Lands at Lyttelton ; is given a very friendly reception Describes changes in New Zealand His affairs are satisfactorily con- cluded He is given a dinner at Wellington His former colleague Fitzgerald makes flattering allusion to his services to the colony He returns to Western Australia and is appointed to governorship of Tasmania His summing up to Secretary of State for Colonial Affairs, and to Legis- lative Council, of his five years' governorship Last addresses Tribute paid twenty years later by Sir T. Cockburn-Campbell to his work in Western Australia . 213 ACHAPTER XI Discovery and colonisation of Tasmania Early difficulties ol colonists, from soil, natives, and bushrangers The Black War G. A. Robinson, protector of the blacks A peaceful solution of the native question A fresh departure in the annals of Tasmania Responsible government Favourable terms accorded by the Crown to her colonies Effects of gold and tin discoveries Weld describes his arrival His anxiety about his wife She charters a loo-ton schooner and makes a voyage of 2000 miles in it The Governor is made C.M.G. Salmon-fishing in Tasmania Ministers . 233 CHAPTER XII Weld's encouragement of the Volunteer movement Black out- look in Eastern Europe in the year 1876-7 Fears of Russian aggression A Memo, for Ministers on the subject of the undefended state of Tasmania The Governor gives prize for encouragement of rifle-shooting He makes a speech on the subject of the duty of citizens to arm themselves in defence of their country Sir Frederick Young on the cause of " Unity " Further remarks to ministers on Federal action Weld's travels in Tasmania Mrs. Weld presents colours to the Tasmanian Rifles The Governor re- christens newly-discovered gold mine of Brandy Creek He is appointed to Straits Settlements Voyage to Singapore 249 CONTENTS xxiii CHAPTER XIII PAGE " The golden Chersonese "Sir Stamford Raffles Sir Andrew Clarke, and the establishment of the Resident system in Malaya The murder of Birch, and Perak War The problem before the Governor of the Straits Settlements A dispute on the Malacca frontier settled by him Visit from Prince Henry of Prussia Weld starts on a tour of the provinces Malacca Races Voyage on the Pluto The Bindings Visit to Captain Murray, Seramban A Chinese play The Sultan of Selangor Kuala Lumpur A shooting party The great cave at Batu Dinner with the Capitan China An alligator shoot A visit to the Resident of Perak Thaiping Review of Sikh force A durbar The Regent of Perak A fishing expedition A canoe journey up the Kinta Leper hospital Reception at Penang Hill bungalow, Penang Visit to Sultan of Kedah Fish-spearing at Anak Bukit Return journey . . 265 CHAPTER XIV Causes for Weld's success with Eastern races Dispatch on the subject of policy to be pursued in the native States The Bendahara of Pahang Rajah Mahdi gives trouble Visit to Maharajah of Johore A paper on the land question Proposed remedies for existing chaos Malay character- isticsThe Governor visits Perak Returns to Singapore and is laid up with gout He holds a meeting with the chiefs of Rembau at Bukit Putus Pass, and lectures the Yam Tuan on his duties Royal visitors to Singapore King David of Sandwich Islands Regent of Siam The Welds go to the Hill Bungalow, Penang Sir Frederick and Captain McCallum make the ascent of Mount Ophir King of Siam's half-brother visits Singapore Also Duke of Clarence and Prince George of Wales The festivities given to celebrate the royal visit 311 CHAPTER XV Boundary disputes Hill Bungalow Excursions to neighbour- ing States Disputes in the Chinese camps Journey to Tanjong Kinkong The village goes out fishing Blanja on the river Perak Debt-bondage the crying sin of Malay States A visit from an intriguing Ranee More trouble with the Chinese A smuggling conspiracy ending with banishment of two Chinese leaders The Rembau chiefs are summoned to Malacca The Yam Tuan formally xxiv CONTENTS PAGE deposed for complicity in crimes The Governor accepts Serun bin Saidin as his successor The State of Jellabu ask for a Resident Summing up of progress in the Straits Settlements A letter to The Times 344 CHAPTER XVI Sir Frederick's health breaks down He and family embark for England Reception at Chideock He reads a paper on British Malaya at the Royal Institute, which is followed by a discussion Death of his eldest brother He receives two years' extension of governorship Is made G.C.M.G. Sir Frederick and Lady Weld return to Singapore He gives an account of his experiences amongst the natives to an old friend His criticisms on the naval and other defences of Singapore Intrigues and disturbances on the Siamese frontier Dispatch to Lord Derby on the subject Corre- spondence with Mr. E. Satow Marriage of Sir Frederick's daughter to Lieut. Jasper Mayne The opening of the Selangor railway He appoints Mr. Lister to the post of Commissioner to Sri Menanti Wilderness Cottage The successful issue of Mr. Clifford's mission to Pahang Expedition to Brunei to decide three-cornered quarrel between its Sultan, the rebels of Limbang, and Rajah Brooke A Venice on stilts Interview with rebels Shooting expedition at Kudat, North Borneo Intrigues at Borneo Governor delivers his ultimatum The Sultan accepts his terms Visit to Sarawak Return to Singapore Queen Victoria's Jubilee The Governor cuts first sod of railway, Seramban Farewell visits from native chiefs Sails for England 374 CHAPTER XVII Chideock described Ancient memories Modern developments Meeting of Imperial Federation Impetus given to the movement in 1889 in Canada and England Lord Rose- bery and Lord Carnarvon on Imperial Federation Sir Frederick on the same subject Weld joins pilgrimage to Palestine Duke of Norfolk's letter to Sir H. Ponsonby The Queen's message in reply Sir Frederick starts for Malay States in the interests of the Pahang Development Company He is attacked by fever in Pahang Returns to Singapore in dying condition Recovers sufficiently to em- bark for England Reaches London, and after some weeks gets back to Chideock He dies there on the 2oth of July 1891 An appreciation 405 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS SIR FREDERICK WELD, G.C.M.G. (Photogravure) . Frontispiece FACING PAGE KAIKORA MOUNTAINS. 23RD DECEMBER 1850 . . 86 From the camp on the Avatere. "TE TERATA," LAKE ROTOMAHANA. STH OCTOBER 1854 . 98 GREAT ERUPTION OF MAUNA LOA, HAWAII. i6TH NOVEMBER 1855 ........ 102 SIR FREDERICK AND LADY WELD . . . .104 MOUNT EGMONT, "TARANAKI." 1861 . . . .114 MOUNT ODIN, "TAPUAENUKU." 1861 . . . .124 GOVERNMENT HOUSE, PERTH, WESTERN AUSTRALIA . 188 WEST AUSTRALIAN VEGETATION. 1869 . . . 204 ROTTNEST ISLAND . . . . . .212 From the Government House. GOVERNMENT HOUSE, HOBART, TASMANIA . . . 236 THE DERWENT RIVER, TASMANIA. 1878 . . 242 GROUP AT GOVERNMENT HOUSE, SINGAPORE. JANUARY 1882 . . . . . . 340 THE WELD FAMILY THE pedigree of the Weld family has been on more than one occasion the object of antiquarian and genealogical research. But had this plea for a brief account of it been wanting, a stronger one could be urged and that is the keen interest that was taken in it by the subject of this biography. Few would be tempted to deny that a long line of ancestry is an incentive to honourable ambitions, and this sentiment, which is in some degree common to most men possessed of this advantage, was in a special manner characteristic of Frederick Weld. The Welds, like so many other families, have what may be called a traditional or legendary origin and an historical one. Strong evidence in their case may be given for the traditional, as their claim to be descended from Edric the son of Alfric, who was brother to Edric, Duke of Mercia, is supported by the authority of Camden. Alfric (whose wife, Edina, was a daughter of King Ethelred) was killed at the battle of Assendun, 1016 A.D. fighting for Edmund Ironside against the invader Canute. His son is styled Edric Childe in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, a name which denotes his close relationship to the royal family. Simon of Durham alludes to him as " a very powerful thegn." Freeman says : " He was a chief leader in the resistance to the Norman Con- quest on the Herefordshire border . . . holding out in woods and difficult places, whence the Normans called him Wylde or Sylvaticus." The opposition xxviii THE WELD FAMILY offered by Edric to the invaders seems to have lasted the greater part of his life, for in the next mention we find of him it is said " that William the Conqueror deprived Sylvaticus of all the land in the Marches, that is to say, in or on the borders of Wales at Melinnith (quandam terram quce vocatur Melenyth), which he had held before and during the Conquest, and handed it over as a perpetual inheritance to one Ralph de Mortuo Mari or Mortimer." 1 Freeman remarks that with Edric 's submission (circa 1070) all resistance was over in the West. 2 There seems to be strong presumptive evidence that William received him (or possibly a son of the same name) into favour, as we find that he was accompanied in his campaign in Scotland by Edric, and that a part of the lands possessed by the family was restored to them. Mention is made more than once of the Wylde family in the reign of King John, and in the Cartulary of the Monastery of St. Peter of Gloucester, dated 1263-84, a deed is given in which the Abbas et conventus hand over a piece of arable land to one William Touch of Slymbridge, two acres of which joined the property of Elias le Wilde. In 1299, notice is entered in the Roll papers that Agnes de Assheleye and Avice de Wilde, nuns of St. Mary's, Winchester, bring news of the death of Christina, their Abbess, and have letters of licence to elect a successor. William de Wylde appears in the Cartularies of the time of Henry in. as under Forester of the Royal forest of Mara 3 in Cheshire, of which a small portion of afforested land still survives in the forest of Delamere. Apparently this office was hereditary, as Omerod, in his standard History of Cheshire, after noticing that the name of 1 Monasticon Anglicanum, Dugdale, pt. xlvi. vol. i, pt. v. p. 349. 2 Short History of England, p. 105. 3 The Blundevilles, Palatine Earls of Chester, were hereditary Foresters of this forest, which was of enormous extent, covering two Hundreds. THE WELD FAMILY xxix William Wylde occurs on the Plea Rolls (temp. 40-46 Henry in.), says : " He was perhaps succeeded by Wm. Wylde de Crouton, who, with Ralph his brother (67 Ed. n.), was presented by the Coroner of the Hundred for having feloniously slain Richard de Acton and Wm. de Shakelok, this probably happened in the execution of his duty as Forester." Omerod l goes on to remark : " but no evidence occurs of this very ancient family having earlier than Henry in., if so early, any property in this parish." To conclude the evidence of the connection of the Welds with Edric the Wylde : a tombstone erected to Sir John Weld's memory in the East Lulworth churchyard i n 1 674 gives the descent from Edric through nine generations to William the High Sheriff of London. With William Wilde the family to which he belonged emerges into historical daylight. Early in the fourteenth century he fared forth to London, and in the year 1330 we find his name (Willielmus atte Wylde) as representing the borough of Marl- borough in Parliament. He was engaged in commerce as well as in politics, and in the year 1352 he was made High Sheriff of London. He is mentioned as Alderman of Coleman Street in the year 1 349, again in 1372. He married his countrywoman, Agnes 2 de Whettenhall, a granddaughter, on the spindle side, of the famous soldier and condottiere Sir Hugh 1 Omerod sees in the fact of the Wylde family occupying this post a proof against their being descendants of Edric arguing that the Noman conquerors were not likely to give it to any but their friends. T. Parr Henning, per contra, writes that "though the matter of the Weld pedigree was one which was both difficult and intricate," and one " which had hitherto defied the united efforts of heralds, anti- quarians and archaeologists," yet that, in his opinion, "there was legal presumptive evidence that Edric the Saxon was the progenitor of this ancient and venerable gentle House." (Notes and Queries, 5.8. I. 347.) 2 Anne, according to Omerod, but William Wylde in his will (enrolled in the Hustings Court, London, May 1371) makes a bequest to his wife Agnes. xxx THE WELD FAMILY Calverley, and as Agnes was a co-heiress we find that their son, on William Wylde 's death, returned to Cheshire, and settled at Eaton, 1 a property which he inherited through his mother. Here the family remained till the reign of Charles n. A member of the family Ingeramus Wilde is mentioned in a charter of James iv. as the owner of land in Edin- burgh, adjoining certain lands of Holy Cross Abbey ; and the name of William Wylde occurs in the list of squires who followed Henry v. in his French cam- paign, where it is mentioned that he had two foot- archers as his attendants. On April loth, 1552, we find a charter from Sir Gilbert Dethick, Garter King-at-Arms, granting a crest to John Weld of Eaton. In this document Dethick refers to " William Weld, Alderman and Sheriff of London in the XXVI Ilth yeare of King Edwarde the thyrde, whos auncestors have byn the bearers of thers tokens and auncient armes of honnor." 2 " This extract from Dethick," says the eminent genealogist, T. Parr Henning, " uncontro- vertibly establishes the fact that William Weld had a long line of predecessors previous to the fourteenth century." The coat of arms confirmed not granted by Sir Gilbert Dethick to John Weld of Eaton has been considered, not without grounds for the opinion, to bear reference to the Saxon outlaw, Edric the Wylde. The shield has a field azure, fesse nebule and three crescents ; the former pointing to his banish- ment beyond seas, and the latter to Edric's three midnight attacks on the city of Shrewsbury. The crest is a wyvern issuing from a ducal coronet. John Weld married Joan, daughter and heiress of John 1 This property is not to be confused with the estate of the same name owned by the Grosvenor family the latter from its commanding the ferry over the Dee being known, anciently, as Eaton boat. 8 The decree was confirmed by Flower Norroy in 1579. THE WELD FAMILY xxxi Fitz-Hugh of Congleton, by whom he had four sons. The eldest, Robert (of Eaton), succeeded to his father, but" after two generations the family failed in the male line and became merged in that of Lowndes. John, the second brother, upon whom the Shropshire property of Willey devolved, was an ardent Royalist, and both he and his eldest son joined the standard of Charles i. when he raised it at Nottingham. They were knighted by the King for their services to his cause, the father at Wellington on the igth of September 1642, the son (of the same name) three days later, at Shrewsbury, 22nd September. Sir John Weld, senior, was High Sheriff of Salop in 1642, and was fined 2555 for his loyalty to the King. Charles n. reinstated him as Town Clerk of London after the Restoration, a post which he held till his death in 1666. His son married Elizabeth, daughter of Sir George Whitmore of Balmes, also a great Royalist. George, their son, was numbered amongst those present at the ill-fated surrender at Worcester in 1651, and became (in 1670) deputy lieutenant of the Tower of London. He left no heirs male, and the Willey branch of the Weld family is represented by the Weld-Foresters. 1 The Weld family in the male line was carried on by the fourth son, Humphrey. Like his ancestor, he made his way at an early age to London, and, like him, made his fortune there. He married Mary, the daughter of Sir Stephen Slaney, who was Lord Mayor in 1 595-96, and was made High Sheriff of London in the last year of the reign of Queen Eliza- beth. James i. named him to the council of what was known as the Virginia charter a board whose duty it was to regulate the settlement of the new Colony. Knighted at Whitehall by King James in the third year of his reign, Sir Humphrey Weld became Lord 1 Lord Forester is the head of this family. xxxii THE WELD FAMILY Mayor in 1609. He died in 1610, leaving large property in London and the estate of Ludwick Manor, Hertfordshire, in the Hundred of Broadwick, to his eldest son John, by his second wife, 1 Anne Wheler. Sir John Weld as he became in 1617, when he was knighted by James i. married Frances, daughter of William Whitmore. He acquired the property of Arnolds in Middlesex, and was succeeded by his son Humphrey, in 1622. Humphrey, in the early part of his life, seems to have enjoyed the favour of the King, as he was appointed by him Governor of two strong places on the southern coast, Portland and Sandesfoot Castles. In 1641 he bought Lul- worth Castle and the large property belonging to it from Lord Howard de Walden, the grandson and heir of Thomas, Earl of Suffolk, and ten years later Weld House in Drury Lane, as a London residence. Humphrey Weld did not remain long in peaceful enjoyment of his Dorsetshire property, as the Castle fell into the hands of the Roundheads in 1643-44, who garrisoned it and committed various depreda- tions upon it, such as carrying off the leaden pipes and much of the wainscoting of the rooms. " By the account of Captain Thomas Hughes the Governor, 3 tons of lead were sold and 2 more delivered for the use of the garrisons at Weymouth, Poole, and for the siege of Corfe Castle." 2 1 Anne, who was a Protestant, left directions in her will that she should be buried six feet deeper than her popish relations, a fact which leads one to believe that they conformed only outwardly to the new religion. It seems probable, considering the positions occupied by Sir Humphrey Weld and his son during three reigns when the penal laws were administered in all their severity, that they abandoned the practices of their Church, and if they were secretly Catholics that they were not recognised as such by their contemporaries. 2 Lulworth and its Neighbourhood, by M. F. Heathcote, p. 28. Lulworth Castle is described as follows by Blome in his Britannia, 1673. He says, " Lulworth Castell is esteemed the best seat in the^whole country as well as for Beauty and Fairness, as a pleasant scituation and prospect into the Sea, having the accommodation of a large Park well provided THE WELD FAMILY xxxiii In 1638, Humphrey married Clare, daughter of Thomas, Lord Arundell of Wardour. In the latter years of his life he appears to have fallen into disgrace at Court, as he was deprived after the Re- storation of his governorships. Whether this was due to his connection by marriage with a family who, though they had given the utmost proof of loyalty to Charles i., were made to bear the full brunt of religious persecution during the reign of his son, or because Weld had thrown off a thin disguise and owned himself what he undoubtedly was, a Catholic, is unknown. He died in 1685, leaving one daughter, who was married to Nicholas, Earl of Carlingford, and bequeathing all his property to his widow for her lifetime. The Titus Gates plot breaking out soon afterwards, the Weld property suffered in the general wreckage of everything appertaining to the Catholic faith or name. Weld House, which had been let to the Spanish Ambassador, was utterly destroyed its site was occupied later by Great and Little Wild Streets. An estimate is extant among the family papers of the " Goods plundered and taken away by force by the Rable when they broak open and puld downe Weld House." l Amongst the items " which ye Earle of Carelingford not in England (owned) ye value of his goods, not well knowne but supposed to be, worth 500. Sir Josia Chylde's goods stood in ye appartment value 100. Lady Weld's goods value 120," and so forth. Lulworth Castle seems to have had a narrow escape from a similar fate, and been saved by the presence of mind of a neighbour and the fidelity of its guardian, Joseph Tomes. The latter writes : " God has been pleased to raise up a with Dear." The foundations were laid in 1588, and it was finished in 1609. Inigo Jones is said to have furnished the plans. 1 Lulworth and its Neighbourhood, pp. 15, 16. 3 xxxiv THE WELD FAMILY friend of allmost an enemy, Mr. Culliford, after haveing on ye i5th instant checked the Rable at Wareham . . . sent next day for Mr. Willis, being informed that he was here, and afterwards for me, and proposed to me the searching the Castle for Armes, which I willingly accepted and desired certificate of it to show in case any disorderly psons should attempt the house, which ye next day was accordingly performed, and the discourse of it which we sent abroad has so far appeased the multitude that I hope wee are out of danger," and much more of the same sort. Two years later an appeal was again made for protection by the agent (William Willis) to Sir John Morton and Mr. Turbevoile, gentlemen, and, doubtless, magistrates of Dorset. On this occasion also the danger was averted ; but the petty persecutions, constant fines, and liability to imprisonment on the smallest pretext lasted nearly a hundred years longer. Sir William Weld of Compton Basset succeeded to Lulworth Castle on the death of his uncle's widow. He married the daughter of Sir Richard Shireburn, and at the death of her niece, the Duchess of Norfolk (who was the only child of the last baronet of that name), he inherited the Shireburn estates in Lancashire. He was succeeded by his son Humphrey, who married Margaret the daughter and heiress of Sir John Simeon, and through her the Welds became the representatives on the female side of the very ancient and honourable family of Heveningham, who, accord- ing to Fuller, could count twenty-eight knights in unbroken succession. In 1745 an attempt was made to implicate John Weld, grandson of the above, in a Jacobite plot. It was alleged that an anonymous letter addressed to him at Lulworth had been mislaid by him and picked up at Poole, which proved his complicity with the King's enemies. Weld was THE WELD FAMILY xxxv summoned to London in order to clear himself, and gives the following succinct account of his journey in his diary. On 30th September 1745 we find the letter en- dorsed : " Copy of ye letter found near Pooll." " October, 2nd. Mr. Bond called here; the six coach-horses sent to Mr. fframpton's. " Sunday, 6th. Col. Dury, Capt. Biron, ye two messengers Ward and Tomson and 4 soldiers came about seven at night. 11 7/A. I sett out for London w r ith them. " gth. Arrived inTown at Ward ye Messengers, ye corner of St. Martin's Churchyard. " i2th. I was examined at Lord Harring- ton's, by ye Duke of Newcastle and Lord Harrington. " \$th. I was carried down to ye Cockpit and there discharged by ye D. of New- castle, and went to my sister Betty's." 1 Thomas Weld, son of the above, succeeded his brother (who died childless in 1775) at the age of twenty-five. His was to some degree an arresting figure. He is represented in a fine portrait at Lulworth as a tall and exceedingly good-looking man holding in his hand, the plan of the chapel built by him in the grounds the first destined to be used for the services of the Catholic Church since the Reformation. 2 He died at Stonyhurst, the old mansion-house of the Shireburns, which he had made over to the Jesuits on the Feast of St. Ignatius, after making his annual retreat there. He left a property to each of his six sons. Lul- w r orth to Thomas, his eldest son, who was first married, 1 Lulworth and its Neighbourhood, p. 21. 2 He was given permission to build this chapel by George in., who, however, stipulated that it should bear as little resemblance as possible to a religious edifice. xxxvi THE WELD FAMILY then after his wife's death entered Holy Orders, and was raised to the dignity of Cardinal by Gregory xvi. in 1829. To Joseph, the second, he bequeathed Pyle- well in Hampshire ; Chideock, to Humphrey ; Britwell, in Oxfordshire, to James ; Hodder, to John (the Jesuit) ; and Leagram, in Lancashire, to his youngest son, George. Frederick Aloysius, third son of Humphrey Weld of Chideock, was born on May Qth, 1823. THE LIFE OF SIR FREDERICK WELD CHAPTER I SIR FREDERICK WELD begins the reminiscences which he wrote for his children partly in 1886 and partly in the last year of his life as follows : " Chideock, where I was born, belonged to my father, Humphrey Weld. He was a younger son of Thomas Weld of Lulworth Castle and of his wife Mary, daughter of Sir John Massey Stanley of Hooton Hall. My mother was Maria Christina, daughter of Charles Lord Clifford of Chudleigh and of his wife Mary Eleanor, daughter of Henry Lord Arundell, all old Catholic families who had rendered good service to the Church and State in trying times, and had been distinguished for their loyalty as well as for their religion. ' My grandfather Weld had a very large property. He owned land in Lancashire and Hampshire as well as in Dorsetshire. He founded Stonyhurst College, and many convents and missions, and brought over refugees to this country (amongst others Trappist monks and Franciscan nuns) during the French Revolution. He obtained for doing so the personal assent and support of King George m., who showed much favour, and even affection, for him and his family. Holy in his life, patriotic, high-minded and generous to an extreme degree, magnificent when occasion required it though personally remarkably self-denying fulfilling all the duties of a great country 2 1.AU1.V RECOLLECTIONS gentleman, equally to his king, by raising men for defence during the \var, and to his neighbour by his support of field sports and his hospitality, Thomas Weld might have been looked upon as an ideal pro- prietor, yet not even the personal favour of his Protestant king could place him in his proper position while the penal laws were yet unrepealed. Chideock, an old Arundell property, was bought by my grand- fat her Weld from my maternal great-grandfather Arundell. It was in a neglected state. Its old eastle had been destroyed by Sir Edward Hungerford and his Roundheads at'ier the gallant resistance of old Daniel the steward, whose body lies in Chideock churchyard. All that was left was a priest's house, which included a little chapel, where Chideock now stands. My father built the house, and greatly improved the property. These outlays and the bringing up of a large family kept him comparatively poor, and prevented him from doing more than leading a quiet life in the country where, however, he die! an immensity of good amongst the poor, as magistrate and in other ways. He and my mother were models of every virtue. She sold her finest jewels (which she loved, as they had belonged to her mother) for the poor, in the Irish famine. Her life was a series of good works. Most of my early re- eolleetions are connected with Chideock and Ugbrooke and, a little later, with Lulworth. I remember particularly how I used to wish to sleep out at night under a certain old tree at Ugbrooke, and the scorn of the nurses who failed to recognise the early develop- ment of my ' bush ' instincts. " When 1 was not quite five years old we went to France and my uncle Clifford came to live at Chideock. Our route would probably have been from Chideock to Lulworth by Dorchester, whence we sailed in my uncle. Joseph Wold's yacht, the Arrow, to Ports- mouth. \\e went across from Portsmouth to Havre do Clraoo in a steamer. I can remember the nurses were rather frightened of thorn, and the Chideock fishermen used to say that they would frighten all the fish out of the Channel. " From Havre we went up the Seine to Rouen. I remember the chestnut tree avenue there, the VERSA 1 1. LI - IN 1828 3 glorious old cathedral, ;ml the smell of the tanneries. From thence we went t ll< -s and lived in a house in the I 'hue d'Arnu's. Here I was in my glory, as there were reviews, parades, and drilling going on under my eyes all day lone. Nearly every day we unit to walk in the Palace Gardens, which were open in the absence of the King and court. I remember well the fou nt. -i ins and statues and the smell of the violets in the bosquets. I have been told since that I always saluted the sentries, and that some of them much amused no doubt when no one was looking would saiutr in return. My military ardour ran so hii^li that when my brother Edmund was born I got all ready to drill him. At last, when after two hour us suspense I was allowed to go and see him, I was shocked at his diminutive size and asked to see his feet ; on beholding tin -in I said, ' With such littlr fritt he could never be drilled,' and wept and would not be comforted." As a youth Frederick Weld was exceedingly delicate, and whilst at Versailles his life was despaired of by the doctors from an attack of ague following after typhoid fever. That he recovered he ever be- lieved was due to his mother's prayers. The memoir goes on to say : " We remained that winter at Versailles, and then went to Paris and stayed a few days in the Rue St. Honore*, opposite the Tuileries gardens, where I saw Charles x. That was the spring of 1828. Two years later he was driven into exile, and was received by my father and mother at Poole, and lunched at Upton on his way to Lulworth, where he stayed, with the Duchess d'Angouleme and the rest of the royal family, for some weeks till the English Government offered him a refuge at Molvrood. After a short stay in Paris we took a small house at Honfleur and there spent several happy months. I was gradually re- covering my strength, and I used to enjoy working in the garden, digging out ponds and trying to make them hold water. Charles, my eldest brother, came 4 CATHOLIC EMANCIPATION to us there from Stonyhurst where he was at school ; and so did my second brother, William, fromSt.Acheul, a school near Amiens, and my eldest sister, Eleanor, from the Sacre Cceur Convent at Paris then the fashionable place of education for the daughters of families of the ancien regime, many of whom had been for generations friends of our families. Apollonia and Chrissie were there too, Edmund was the baby. Amy and Lucy were born after our return to England. I was still a poor weakly thing, and even after leaving France, when we got back to Lulworth, I remember when my mother left me, as she sometimes did, I used to fear lest I should suddenly die during her absence. At Pylewell and at Lulworth I used to Elay at regattas with my cousin Mary, and I saw md drew a picture of) the Champion Cup being won by my uncle's yacht Alarm, which beat the Duke of Norfolk's Arundell, Lord Belfast's Louisa, and Lord Durham's Albatross ." Catholic Emancipation became law whilst he was staying with his parents at Ugbrooke : " when we " (this is his comment upon it) " who had been born legal helots in that England which had been made by Catholics, and whose Constitution was built up and is still maintained on Catholic principles, by means of Catholic traditions, became once more free. My grandfather left Ugbrooke to take his seat in the House of Lords, and a great reception was given to him on his return." The recollections which follow show that he was gradually outgrowing the delicacy of his early youth, by the evidence it gives of the keenness with which he threw himself into every boyish game and sport an ardour to succeed in everything which he under- took, which followed him through life, and was one of his strongest characteristics. Fishing was his passion, both in the brook which ran close to his home and in the sea, where, he notes, " under the care of a steady old fisherman from the village I was sometimes SCHOOL LIFE 5 allowed to go out boating and fishing." The same keenness attended him in his other pursuits, playing at soldiering was one of these, also reading and draw- ing. At last the moment came for him to go to school. He felt it deeply, he tells us : ' I can still remember as if it were yesterday looking back through the gateway and gaps in the hedges to get a last glimpse of Chideock. We must have been at least a week getting to Stonyhurst, where my school-life was spent. I knew a good deal of English history and was charmed beyond measure at recognising the battlefields Tewkesbury, for instance and various abbeys and castles which I had read about ; and almost equally so with the rich beauty of the scenery. I remember making a drawing of the Tor at Glastonbury, and of the Wellington Monument at Wellington, to send home in my letter." He went first to Hodder, which is the preparatory school for Stonyhurst, and only removed from it by a distance of a mile, and followed on, with the rest of his class in his second year, to Stonyhurst. He was not a hard worker, he tells us, except where his special tastes were concerned. These were history, languages, and geography. He had also a turn for versification, and generally carried off the prize for poetry. ' For my age," he writes, " I was well up in English literature. I had a good general knowledge of our poets, and nothing delighted me more than to discuss my favourite passages with my friends. My political ideas have always remained much the same. I have deeply loved true liberty, based on Catholic principle, and combined with reverence for authority. I have always been able to enter into the views and feelings of an antagonist with respect, when such was merited by honesty. I have always recognised that simple and absolute truth was divine and not attainable in the human sphere attainable in religion therefore 6 LIFE-LONG FRIENDSHIPS with a divine guide, but not in politics ; that there is a spiritual and temporal sphere, each with their special mission ; that each should support the other as far as circumstances render it possible ; that neither should invade the province of the other, but that the moral should nevertheless rule the political, and that the exposition of the moral law though not the direction of matters in purely temporal exigencies- must rest with divinely constituted spiritual authority. My views in this respect have never altered, and after I left Stonyhurst they were much developed by Fr. Freudenfeldt, the Professor of Philosophy at Friburg. Moreover, I was always an ardent admirer of the English character when seen at its best, and I believe I have understood it as well as appreciated it. To this much of my success in life is due. God made me an Englishman heart and soul ; thus only could I approach the ideal which was ever before me, and thus only deal with my fellow-countrymen." Fred Weld made many friends while he was at Stonyhurst, some of whom were lifelong ones. Such, for instance, was his friendship with Simon Scrope, and he was also on terms of close intimacy with A. Macdonell, Count Charles de Croisy, and Henry and William Clifford, and Alfred Weld the three last being his first cousins. His recollections go on to tell of keen competitions for a first prize in poetry and composition (in these he generally came out victorious), and his love for games, especially football. But such reminiscences may be looked upon as of greater interest to his own family than to the general public. His vacations were spent either at home or at Lulworth or Ugbrooke, in the enjoyment of the sports he loved, such as fish- ing, shooting, and even on rare occasions hunting, when he was lucky enough to get a mount. On one occasion, his parents having gone abroad, he spent the winter vacation with his relations the Arundells of Wardour. He was then seventeen and a half years VACATIONS 7 of age, and a conversation he had with Lord Arundell one night in the smoking-room for the first time set him thinking that the pleasant holiday life he was leading could not go on for ever. " One day we were sitting together after dinner, whilst he smoked his nightly cigar, and he said to me, ' Fred, you are growing up ; what do you intend to be? ' ' I answered that I had not made up my mind, but that I should like to be a soldier. He replied, 'That is an expensive profession nowadays. But listen to me : none of your family have taken to professions, and the penal laws while they existed debarred Catholics from many. But all that is altered now. Remember this : If you vegetate on a small allowance you will go to London for the season and get through your money in no time ; then your relations will take pity on you and say, ' Poor fellow, we must ask him here for some shooting ; and we shall feel we are conferring a benefit on you.' But if you take to a profession and work hard at it, it will be the other way. We shall say, ' He is a busy man, I wonder if he could spare time to run down and have a day's shooting ? and then you will be doing us a favour.' ' These words from my shrewd old cousin made a great impression on me, and years afterwards I recalled this conversation to him, and pleased him much by telling him the effect it had had on me." The following year Fred's father took him away from Stonyhurst, and sent him to complete his studies at the University of Friburg in Switzerland. He tells us he was very sorry to leave the " dear old place," to which, in nine years, he had got deeply attached. The reason which influenced his father in making this change was, in the first place, because he would have better opportunities of following up the higher studies at Friburg under distinguished pro- 8 A SWISS UNIVERSITY fessors than existed in those days at Stonyhurst ; secondly, because at Friburg he would be given the advantage of cultivating foreign languages, for which he had already shown a marked aptitude. He could at this time speak and read French with facility, had mastered Italian sufficiently to read Dante in the original, and he also knew a little Spanish. Later on he added German to the list of languages with which he was familiar. Fred found some of his Stonyhurst companions at Friburg, amongst others Henry Clifford, who had preceded him there by a few weeks, Philip Vavasour, and Alfred Weld. He says : " We formed a small English colony in the midst of eight hundred students of all nationalities. I was in philosophy, and worked at metaphysics, logic, ontology and physiology under Fr. Rothenflue, and at the philosophy of history under Fr. Freuden- feldt. The latter became my great friend, and I received lasting benefit from my studies under him. I also attended a course of modern law, and one of chemistry and natural philosophy. I did not like Friburg nearly so well as Stonyhurst. The exceed- ingly strict continental method of supervision was very irksome to Englishmen, and I am afraid that insular pride and pugnacity led some of us to assume airs of superiority, and to resent affronts that were not always intentional. Matters culminated when, avowedly in defiance of the Frenchmen, we gave a Waterloo banquet in a summer-house in the play- ground, to which we invited our friends, a few Belgians, Poles, and Hungarians. We formed a small but enthusiastic party, and the French assembled in front and hooted us. Whereupon we charged with nearly as much effect as the Guards did on the day we were celebrating, and sauve qui pent in the enemy's ranks was the order of the day. The next morning we were sent for into the august presence of the Father Rector, himself a Frenchman. With great firmness and kindness he pointed out the impropriety of our conduct and the subversion of law and order which must result from such outbreaks. He ended by FR. FREUDENFELDT 9 putting us on our honour never to repeat these pro- vocations, and sent us away completely subdued and determined to show that an Englishman put on his honour can be trusted anywhere. After that we had no more rows. With Fr. Freudenfeldt, who had been specially recommended to us by the Rector as guardian and mentor, I formed perhaps the greatest friendship of my life, and I may almost say I still think of him daily, and never without love and gratitude. He was the wisest man and the best adviser and held the widest views, as well as the most just ones, of any man I have ever known. Also, he had the keenest insight into character. " His life had been a remarkable one. At an early age he had been attached as tutor or governor to the person of the two royal princes of Prussia, of whom the elder of the two became King Frederick ii. He was for a time lecturer on the literature of Southern Europe at the University of Gottingen. Then when Germany was crushed under the foot of the first Napoleon after the battle of Jena, Freuden- feldt was one of the patriotic poets who by their war- songs roused the spirit of the German people. And when the hour arrived to strike a blow for liberty he helped to raise and joined a ' students corps.' He was A.D.C. to General Liethen commanding the ist Prussian Division in 1815, and on the day of Ligny (called by the Germans Fleurus) he was temporarily attached to Bliicher's staff. He was present in his capacity of A.D.C. at Waterloo, and was one of the first to enter Paris when it was taken possession of by the allied troops. After peace was declared Freuden- feldt, in spite of great inducements being offered to him to remain in the army, returned to his literary pursuits. He accepted the chair of Professor of the Philosophy of History at Bonn University, stipulating that he should be free to express his opinion on re- ligious subjects in the University, which was half Catholic and half Protestant. The result was such as might have been expected, and as he himself partly anticipated. When it came to such burning questions as the Reformation, and the causes that led to it, and the consequences that followed from it, though supported by his own pupils, his opinions led to dis- io WATERLOO turbances which, in the absence of support from the University authorities, led to his resignation. He had other trials of a domestic nature of a deeply trying kind, and finally he sought consolation in religion and joined the Jesuit novitiate. " I left Friburg at Easter 1843. I had talked much with Fr. Freudenfeldt about my future. My own wish was to go into the army, but he dis- suaded me from it as he thought that with no prospect of war the life was an idle one. I was sorry to leave Friburg and to part with many friends whom I could hardly hope ever to see again ; nevertheless I was delighted to return to England. I travelled by diligence to Basle, thence by rail, newly opened, to Strasburg and down the Rhine by Liege to Brussels, where I found many friends and relations. I enjoyed myself very much there and visited Ghent, Bruges and Mechlin, also Louvain, where my uncle George Weld and his family were living at that time. I visited, of course, Waterloo, and read and learned every possible particular regarding it, besides thor- oughly studying the plan of the battle. I went over the field with Sergeant Cotton, and asked him what were his impressions of the battle. He had been a light-cavalry man. He said that in the morning the English were struck by the immense extent of the French front as it deployed into line, and at the number of their batteries. Also that they knew that they could not count on most of the continental contingents that made up a considerable part of our army. Nor did they know what support they would get from Bliicher ; but they had immense faith in their leader, the great Duke, and the old soldiers who had been in the Peninsular War inspired the young recruits who filled our ranks with implicit confidence that somehow or other they would be able to beat the French. Such were the impressions of one of the rank and file in the great battle that decided the fate of Europe for more than half a century." Fred Weld's return home after two and a half years' absence was a joyful one. He found the CHOICE OF A PROFESSION n family party nearly complete, the only exceptions being that of his eldest sister, who had gone to be a nun at the Visitation Convent of Westbury, and of his eldest brother, Charles, who had settled down to an artist's life in Rome. " To me (he says) home life, varied with visits to my friends, for instance to Simon Scrope, or Henry Clifford, and to my relations, fishing and shooting and going to Cowes regatta with my father, appeared at that time a dream of perfect happi- ness. But I knew it could not last. Lord ArundelPs advice was ever before my mind, and I felt I could not bear to be a burden to my father, or a hanger-on on my relations. It was proposed that I should be an engineer and go to the United States, but civil engineering was not in my line, and I objected to going outside the shadow of the British flag. For the same reason also because my father was opposed to it I did not accept a nomination in the Austrian Army which was offered to me through my brother Charles, by the Austrian Ambassador in Rome. I had thought of the Bar, but I doubted whether I had the special talents necessary for success. My natural tendency was towards the Army, but in those days the Army was a very expensive profession, and men for the most part entered it as a means of leading a pleasant life and rising by purchase to high posi- tions rather than for any other reason. People seemed to think there would be no more wars so long had peace lasted. One profession remained which had always had an attraction for me, and that was colonisation in a new country. 11 My cousin Henry Clifford and I had often wished that our lot in life should be the same, and we had always put a life of adventure in a new country as an alternative to the Army. He entered the Rifle Brigade and I went to New Zealand : such was the outcome of our dreams. To leave my family and all I loved in England for years (for it could be no less) cost me the deepest pangs ; but the more I thought about it the more I inclined that way. I saw in that course a probable means of at 12 COLONISATION once becoming self-supporting, and at all events of being a burden on no one. Then the excitement that must attend on pioneering in a wild country, of adventures with savages, ' hairbreadth escapes by land and flood/ all told on my imagination, and I thought, and still think, that what Bacon calls ' the heroic work of colonisation ' is one worthy of the keenest minds and the stoutest hearts. To help to tame the wilderness, and build up a young nation, to bring knowledge of the truth to savages, and extend the rule of the British Empire are no unworthy objects ; and if any one should doubt what colonists many of whom were animated by similar aspira- tions have done, let him look at a map of the world of the sixteenth century and contrast it with one of the nineteenth, and notice the great nations that have arisen in that interval ; and how religion, com- merce, the arts, and civilisation have followed in the footsteps of the colonist. If my early or perhaps it would be better to say my lifelong aspirations were dreams, it may at least be admitted that they bore fruit and were not idle ones. ' They call us enthusiasts/ said John Godley, himself a great colonist, at a farewell dinner given in his honour at Wellington, New Zealand, ' but I should like to know when anything was ever achieved without enthusiasm/ " The reasons which turned Fred Weld's thoughts towards New Zealand were as follows : It was a country with a future before it, and three young men, Henry Petre, Charles Clifford, and William Vavasour, of whom two were relations, had preceded him there the year before. Also a friend, Frederick Jerningham, a member of a family well known to the Welds and connected with them, was at that moment occupied at Weymouth in getting recruits in the shape of labouring men to take out with him to that country. Fred therefore, at his father's suggestion, went to Weymouth and got all the in- formation he could collect from the intending colonist to the British nation. Six months later Weld received an intimation from the Secretary of State for the Colonies that he had been appointed, when his term of service in Tasmania expired, to the Governorship of the Straits Settlements. Tasmania was not behind Western Australia in its appreciation of the merits and services of Governor Weld ; thus the last days of his stay there were filled up with engagements of the usual kind, including addresses and complimentary dinners. A very handsome presentation was also made to Mrs. Weld by the ladies of Tasmania. The Welds embarked on the 5th of April 1880, crossed to Sydney, where they were the guests of Lord and Lady Augustus Loftus at Government House, and started on the i7th for Singapore. Weld gave the following description of his new residence in a letter to a friend a month after his arrival at Singapore : " What has struck us most on arriving here was the extraordinarily vivid green of the vegetation. The Emerald Isle is nothing to the Straits Settlements ; our eyes are hardly used to it yet . We are very much pleased with our surroundings ; the grounds are 264 SINGAPORE beautiful, with a terraced flower-garden, and a croquet and lawn-tennis ground, with an army of natives to keep them in order. The park is also kept as smooth as a lawn. The house is perfect for a tropical country ; the rooms of great size, and all opening on to a huge colonnade, so as to give a free current of air, but divided by numberless screens. The house is considerably bigger than our Tasmanian one, the colonnade in front being 354 feet long ; the latter is paved with cream-coloured marble. " We have seen a good deal of the Maharajah of Johore, who has always been on most friendly terms with my predecessors here. He is a Mohammedan, of course, like all the Malays, but very civilised quiet, with exceedingly pleasant manners ; in fact, a superior man. I shall go and pay him a visit as soon as I have time, and his new palace at Johore is finished. It is on the mainland, at about fifteen miles distance from Singapore. I have given up all idea of asking for leave now, as there is much to be done here, and the work is most interesting. I trust my family will be able to stand the climate ; so far we have not felt the heat much, though this is said to be the hottest month in the year. It does not approach what I have felt in Western Australia, or even occasionally in Tasmania, or in a New Zealand nor 'wester. Here 82 in the shade is considered hot, but there are frequent showers (a shower for every day in the year, one is told) and constant thunderstorms. The nights, too, are never oppressive. What is trying to the European constitution is the absence of all cold weather ; and that this is a trial is proved by the fact that many, even the strongest, after a time break down under it." CHAPTER XI I I " Revolutions arise from great causes but out of small incidents." ARISTOTLE: THE Malay Peninsula in these days of ubiquitous globe-trotters is almost too well known to need description. Of its history perhaps less is known, though it is one of great interest to the Imperialist as demonstrating the astounding growth of British influence in the Far East in the course of last century. Milton's sonorous line : " Down in the golden Chersonese " l in Paradise Lost is one of the few early references to it in English poetry or prose. 2 More than a century sooner, however, it had become at least nominally the appanage of a European power. For in 1511, Albuquerque, the great Captain-General of the Portuguese possessions in the East, after a successful campaign in India passed on to Malacca, to avenge the treatment which had been meted out to Diego Lopez de Siquiera by its Sultan. Malacca was at that time the great emporium of South-eastern Asia, and Albuquerque, having after some fighting established the Portuguese power in this important town, thereafter contented himself with sending peaceful embassies to Siam and China and to the Moluccas. By this means he secured for over a hundred years the monopoly of the spice trade and 1 The Aurea Chersonesus of Ptolemy and Pliny. 2 Three expeditions undertaken successively by Thomas Stephens in 1579, by Ralph in 1583, and another in 1591, prove that the com- mercial possibilities of the East Indies were not unknown to British traders and navigators. 265 266 THE EAST INDIA COMPANY commerce of those countries to the Crown of Portugal. The seventeenth century witnessed the decay of Portuguese influence in the Straits and Malayan Archipelago, and the growth of the power of the Netherlands. In 1641, Malacca was seized by the Dutch, in whose possession it remained till we took it from them in 1795. After the Treaty of Vienna we ceded it to them, but resumed possession in 1824 in exchange for Benkulen, and have held it ever since. The East India Company, which had been for some time stretching out feelers in the direction of the China seas, purchased in 1786 the island of of Penang l (at the suggestion of Captain Light) from the Rajah of Kedah. This was followed in 1 798 by the acquisition by the same Company of the province of Wellesley, and in 1819 by that of Singa- pore, the latter being the capital of what was after- wards known as the Straits Settlements. Singapore will be associated in men's minds as long as the British rule lasts in the Far East with the name of Sir Stamford Raffles, and as long as that name is remembered it will stand for a line of conduct which we are proud to think marks British officialdom in her oversea possessions with good faith, and clean hands, and an earnest desire to extend the benefits of law and justice to the races who have invoked her assistance or submitted to her rule. His life has another claim on our interest, it coincides with the growth and extension of British influence and dominion in the East Indies. Stamford Raffles was born in 1781, and having passed into the civil service was sent by the East India Company to Penang in 1805. He was a good linguist, and before long had acquired a proficiency in the Malay language which brought him under notice 1 In Malay : Pulau Pinang, Betel-nut Island. SIR STAMFORD RAFFLES 267 of the Asiatic Society in Calcutta, and through that Society, of Lord Minto, who was at that time Governor- General. After he had been five or six years in Penang his health broke down from over- work, and he went to Malacca to recruit. Whilst he was there he was so much struck with the capabilities of the country that in consequence of his representations Lord Minto resolved on retaining it to the Crown, though its surrender had been previously decided upon. When the Governor-General embarked shortly afterwards on an expedition against the island of Java, relying on Raffles' knowledge of the native States, he sent him as agent to Malacca. After the expedition had come to a successful conclusion Raffles was appointed Lieutenant-Governor of Java, where he was confronted with a task of colossal difficulty, as his rule extended over six million natives, led by turbulent chiefs, the greater number of whom had never submitted to European rule, the Dutch authority whom we had superseded having extended over little more than a third of the island. One of his first acts was to abolish forced native labour, and re-model on British lines the administra- tion of justice, and ways of levying the revenue. Crawfurd (his successor in the government of the Malay States) speaks of him as an " intrepid inno- vator," and his career from first to last shows that he was never wanting in the courage of his opinions. In 1812 he organised and dispatched an expedition to the island of Bantam, which from the information he had received of its wealth in minerals he judged would be a valuable addition to British possessions in the East Indies. Three years later the British Government, in spite of vehement protests and remonstrances from its Governor, resolved to cede Java to the Dutch. Lord Minto, in view of this catastrophe, had, before leaving India, appointed 268 SINGAPORE him to the Residency of Fort Maryborough in Ben- kulen, but Raffles had by this time broken down in health, and instead of taking possession of the post he returned to England to rest and recruit. In 1817 he returned to the East and took up his new job, the Board of Directors having confirmed the appoint- ment. Here again he devoted himself to administra- tion and philanthropic work. He began by emanci- pating the negro slaves owned by the East India Company, reorganised the police, started native schools, and established friendly relations with the neighbouring chiefs. He also found time to explore the little-known interior of the country, and by his scientific discoveries and collections he made great additions to the knowledge of the savants of Europe of the flora and fauna of those remote regions. The report having reached Benkulen that the Dutch had designs on the Malay States, Raffles started at once for Calcutta, and succeeded in im- pressing on the Governor-General, Lord Hastings, their paramount importance to the British Crown. He especially singled out Singapore, as holding the key of the situation in the Far East. The East India Company, acting under his advice, bought Singapore from the Sultan of Johore, and Sir Stamford Raffles l raised the British flag there on 29th February 1819. He had now reached the apex of his fortunes. His further plans for extending the Empire brought only failure and disappointment. In 1821, on his own initiative, he bought the island of Pulau Nias, princi- pally with the object of putting an end to the slave trade, of which it was the headquarters. For this he was censured by the Directors of the East India Company. His health, which had always been delicate, broke down. In 1823 he threw up his appointment, 1 He was made K.C.M.G. in 1817. SIR ANDREW CLARKE 269 and embarked for England. On his return journey the ship he sailed in was wrecked and an absolutely unique collection, which he had spent a lifetime in acquiring, of birds, beasts, insects and flowers, of the value of twenty or thirty thousand pounds, also memoirs, and notes for a History of Borneo and Sumatra which he had intended to write, were all lost. He survived this last blow of fortune only two years, and died at the comparatively early age of forty-five in 1826. For the fifty years which followed the death of its first Governor the history of Singapore was un- eventful. With the province of Wellesley, Penang, and Malacca it formed one of the Indian Presidencies, till, in the year 1867, it was made a separate Crown colony under the name of the Straits Settlement, and was handed over to the Colonial Office. Pros- perity was slow in coming to it, the obvious cause being the disturbed state of the native states in its vicinity. In 1873 the guerilla fights between the people of Perak and the Chinese engaged in the mines, and the constant acts of piracy inflicted on our trade by both Chinese and Malays, brought matters to a crisis. Sir Andrew Clarke, R.E., was appointed Governor of Singapore with orders to protect our interests in the peninsula, and to use his influence with his unruly neighbours with the object of ensuring peace and better government. Sir Andrew began by summoning the Perak chiefs to a meeting at Pulau Pangkor, and after examining into the rival claims of the two pretenders, Sultans Ismail and Abdullah, he decided in favour of the latter. Then acting on the instructions he had received, and following out the same policy that had been pursued in India, the Governor imposed a Resident on Abdullah, who was to advise him on matters of state and instruct him in the arts of civilised government. Whether the 20 270 THE PERAK WAR Sultan underrated the power behind Sir Andrew Clarke, or whether Mr. Birch (who had no personal knowledge of Malays) did not use sufficient tact in his difficult and dangerous office, is a moot point, but before long he incurred the jealousy and hatred of Abdullah, and in 1876 was foully murdered by his followers. The Perak war followed : a short campaign in which two thousand British troops were employed, several native villages suspected of complicity with the crime were burnt down, and a good many officers and men lost their lives. In the end the murderers were given up, and either hanged or deported to the Seychelles. Abdullah was of the latter number, and Jusuf was installed in his place. British influence maintained by Residents, begun in Sir Andrew Clarke's time, was during his successor Sir W. Jervois's governorship extended to Selangor and the state of Sungei Ujong. Thus at the time of Weld's appointment the Straits Settlements comprised the island of Singapore with its chief town of the same name, in which Government House was situated, Penang, and Province Wellesley and Malacca. Also the protected states of Perak, Selangor, and Sungei Ujong. The latter included a kind of suzerainty over a cluster of small states which now form with it the Negri Zembilan, or Nine Counties. To sum up the situation from the political and social point of view : to the outward eye all seemed peace and harmony amidst these heterogeneous races when Weld was called upon to assume the reins of office in the Straits Settlements. True, a " little war " was simmering in the region of the Negri Sembilan, but in those days a native dispute was synonymous with a recourse to arms, and this was a mere ripple on the waters. The country was steadily growing in riches and prosperity. The Residents, each at their posts, were, according to their instructions/ ' advising," THE RESIDENT SYSTEM 271 and yet doing their utmost to make their up-to-date and painfully enlightened advice as little unpalatable as possible to, the rulers, who were no longer trusted to rule. The system was in full operation. Still much, it would be scarce an exaggeration to say everything, remained to be done. The foundations were laid, but the edifice had to be built up. The tradition of hundreds of years of corrupt dealings and foul living had to be broken through and lived down. The new way had to be demonstrated not only as the better and higher way, but as the one which would be, if necessary, enforced by British gun-boats, which could not be infringed upon with impunity, but which, if embraced with zeal and loyalty, might mean and here " comes the rub " a new heaven and a new earth : for the Sultan, chief or Penghulu, 1 prosperity and immunity from civil war, and an increasing revenue ; to the baser sort, release from the horrors of debt bondage, the security of equality before the law, and a hundred privileges hitherto denied to them. To see this thing through was the problem, or rather undertaking, put before the Governor of the Straits Settlements. To assist him in his task, though they took nothing from his responsibility, the Governor had an Executive Council consisting of ten members and a Legislative Council, also composed of the same number of members, holding ex-ofncio seats ; this included the Chief Justice, the officer in command of the troops, and six other members who were nominated by the Governor subject to Her Majesty's approval. This Council was presided over by the Governor. The first question of importance which claimed Weld's attention on his arrival was the dispute in the protected state of Sungei Ujong. 1 Head-man, 272 REMBAU Accordingly we find the following entry in his journal : " May i ith. Mr. Cecil Smith l (Colonial Secretary) here this morning as usual. Went into question of native affairs in the Peninsula. The Datoh of Rembau has a dispute with Seyd Hamed on our Malacca frontier. Directed that a letter should be written to the belligerents to lay down their arms and submit their case to my decision. " May i2th. Received H.E. Chow Phya, Pleni- potentiary and Ambassador Extraordinary from the King of Siam to the Court of St. James' and his suite. A stout ugly man, ill-dressed in European clothes, but with pleasant smile and manner. He is also Minister for Foreign Affairs of Siam, and is going to arrange a treaty and present the Order of the White Elephant to Her Majesty. "May iSth. Meeting of the Executive Council, stated my view on the Sungei Ujong succession, with which members concurred. "May igth. Interview with the Datoh Perba of Rembau i I asked him what induced him to resort to arms, and why he had not consulted the British Government. He replied that he had consulted it. On being further questioned he said that General Anson (who was then administering) had told him to send his demands to Seyd Hamed. He (the Datoh) then inquired what he was to do if they were refused. Anson's reply was, ' You must take your own course, but mind I don't authorise you to use force.' This he repeated to me a second time before the Colonial Secretary. " May 2gth. Received telegram from Lord Kim- berley, Secretary of State for the Colonies, announcing that the Queen, on his recommendation, had given me the K.C.M.G. and Mr. C. C. Smith the C.M.G. " June ist. In accordance with my orders, Rembau men have evacuated Tampan. "June i&th. Legislative Council. In the after- noon German man-of-war Prinz Adalbert arrived, with Prince Henry of Prussia, second son of the Crown Prince and our Princess Royal. 1 Afterwards Sir Cecil Clement! Smith, K.C.M.G. PRINCE HENRY OF PRUSSIA 273 " June 2 ist. Sent carriage, i p.m., to meet Prince Henry and suite at landing-place. We had a big official luncheon to meet him, about forty-five people. I received him at the steps of the grand entrance and took him up to the drawing-room where I presented the naval, military, and civil authorities to him. He wore the gold collar, ribbon, and badge of the Grand Cross of some Prussian order, and full naval uniform. After the dinner he proposed the Queen's health and I the Emperor's, and in doing so I said a few words of welcome to our guest . ( I had been asked previously not to propose his health). Everything went off well. I took the Prince afterwards for a drive in the four-in- hand, and drove him past Tanglin and back via River Valley Road to the Esplanade, where we alighted, and walked to see the view from the water- works. In the evening we had a sort of informal repast, at which Lady Sidgreaves (the Chief Justice was absent), Mr. 1 and Mrs. Swettenham, Major Gray, Lieut. Cosmo Huntly Gordon, A.D.C., Lieut .-Colonel Parnell, Captain Cumming, R.N., and the Prince's suite, Baron von Seckendorff, and two other Prussian officers were present. The Prince and Baron von Seckendorff remained for some time after the others left , chatting and smoking, and seemed quite sorry to go . "June 22nd. Went with the Prince and Baron von Seckendorff early to Johnston's pier to see him off in the Pluto. The yacht took him to Johore to lunch with the Maharajah ; and in the afternoon I drove my team to Bukit Timah to meet them on their return. They arrived about up to time in the Maharajah's carriage, with four horses and pos- tilions quite a good turnout. I took the Prince on the box of my drag and drove him to Johnston's pier, where they embarked. We parted with cordial expressions of regard on both sides, and regret on theirs (which seemed sincere) that they could not make a longer stay. Prince Henry is a very nice young fellow, straight-forward and unaffected, and with a decided sense of humour." On the following day (23rd June) the Governor started on the steam-yacht Pluto for a tour of in- 1 Now Sir Frank Swetteuham, K.C.M.G. 274 MALACCA spection of the provinces under his charge, beginning with Malacca. His letters to Lady Weld give a detailed history of his experiences : " Mr. Irving, the Resident Councillor of Malacca/' he writes, ''came off to meet me on board the Pluto and took me ashore, in a boat with awnings towed by a steam-launch. Malacca is exceedingly pretty, with wooded islands, and an open roadstead which, however, must have silted up and shoaled a good deal since the Portuguese used it as a trysting-place for fleets and armies, and the basis of their operations in the East. As I passed rapidly ashore over a sea as smooth as glass I could not help thinking of the saints and of the sinners, of the apostolic mission- aries, and the wild adventurers, soldiers of fortune, and men greedy for gold (as the others were of souls) who had stepped ashore on that white beach fringed with palms and shady trees. The town is crowded down to the water's edge, and is very picturesque with its quaint red-tiled houses ; some curious looking sheds being built on piles right into the sea. A grassy hill rises in the centre of the town, on which stands the still massive ruins of the first Catholic Cathedral in the Far East, in which the body of St. Francis Xavier reposed for several years before it was finally translated to Goa. We landed at stone steps under spreading trees which led to a broad grass esplanade. A guard of honour, of the 3rd Buffs, was drawn up, and presented arms ; some presenta- tions were then made of principal residents, some officials, a Rajah or two, and one or two leading Chinese, and we then drove about a hundred yards to the Stadthaus, the former residence of the Dutch Governors who conquered the place from the Portu- guese. It is an interesting old house, built at the foot of the hill, and close to a canal-like river which no doubt attracted the Dutch, as reminiscent of home. It contains some good rooms, which are mostly used as offices ; some are kept for the use of the Governors, and are just now occupied by the Chief Justice, who is here on circuit. There is also a fine carved wood staircase, and a picture (a bad one) of Lord Minto, who took the town in person and THE CATHEDRAL 275 burnt certain Dutch instruments of torture in public": said instruments are portrayed in the background. " I walked up the hill afterwards with Mr. Irving to his bungalow, which is a very good house in a fine situation with a glorious view from it. I must now go to breakfast. I have been writing this in the balcony of the police station at Machap with a Malay policeman standing * at attention ' over me. I sug- gested to Mr. Swettenham that it was unnecessary, but was informed that the man was enjoying him- self thoroughly, and felt he was performing duty as body-guard, so I allowed him to remain." The letter is resumed the following day on Sir Frederick's return to Malacca : " I have just returned from Machap, and am more struck than ever by the beauty of the view from this bungalow. The hill it stands on is about a hundred and fifty feet above the sea, so one looks on to the roadstead with its gay shipping of Chinese junks and curious Malay sampans (a fine Russian frigate has, I see, just come in !). Above us are the ruins of the old Cathedral with a lighthouse built on to it ; and on either side stretches out the picturesque old town of Malacca. Here and there, nestling amongst palm- trees, one sees detached bungalows, the minarets of some mosques, and the kiosk-like roofs of the joss- houses, and beyond a perfect sea of verdure. The town is surrounded by low hills, but Mount Ophir and the Rembau mountains rise in the distance to a considerable height ; the former is about four thousand feet high. There is no view at Singapore to compare with it. I have charming rooms here, and Mrs. Irving is exceedingly kind ; they have asked me to stay with them as long as I am in the town. " June 26th. I have been going over the Cathedral with Irving. There are several fine tombs on the grass- grown floor of the nave. One of a Bishop Paul, S.J., ' the second Bishop of Japan,' dated 15 A.D. (the rest of the date effaced). The greater number of tombs, however, are Dutch, and belong to the seventeenth century. The building is roofless ; and I am told it was much disfigured by the Dutch. There is a large 276 A RECEPTION chancel at the east end, which was walled up. I noticed the introduction of some Renaissance pillars and decorations ; the church was supposed to have been built about the year 1555. A lighthouse tower quite modern has been built into the wall on the west end. I got the key and penetrated into the chancel, hoping to find the aisle of the High Altar, and the spot where St. Francis Xavier's shrine, or coffin, was kept. There was a division in the place, and stone supports on which I thought at first the coffin might have stood, but after a careful inspection I am inclined to think that the Dutch had pulled down the former chancel, and the place where the altar and shrine stood, and built a guard-room or something of the kind on the site. It has been used as a powder magazine quite within recent times. The hill on which the Cathedral stands is surrounded by a high wall, so no doubt in its day it was considered a strong place ; one gate alone remains, a very picturesque one, and a fortified well a precaution against the Malays poisoning the springs. " In the evening I went to the Chinese burial- ground to meet a deputation from the municipality, and from the Chinese, who had come to me to have a knotty point settled in which there were so many interests and rights involved, and sanatory con- siderations to be taken into account not to mention ancient concessions, and Government proclamations that I thought we should never get at the bottom of the story. However, I studied it on the ground and heard all the arguments and then delivered my verdict, which I think will meet the case, and they all professed to be satisfied though whether they were so, is a different thing. In the evening the Irvings gave a reception at which a good number of people were present ; amongst others there were two little boys, 1 sons of Sultan Abdullah, who is pur prisoner at the Seychelles for complicity in Birch's murder. Also some Chinese in full fig, some descendants of old Portuguese and Dutch families, and various officials. There was some singing too, in parts ; altogether we had quite a pleasant evening. " June 2$th. Drove to our boundary, by Alor 1 Rajah Ngah Mansur and Chulan of Perak, > ATHLETIC SPORTS 277 Gajah, and crossed into Tampan. Met Seyd Mahomed on his way to see me ; he turned back and took us to his house. I examined the stockade recently built by the Datoh Perba of Rembau's people when they took it. The Datoh had carried off all Seyd Mahomed's furniture, in fact wrecked the place. The latter appeared to have about thirty followers. He drew up a guard of honour (men all armed with rifles), and would have fired a salute with some small cannon he had got, but I told him my visit was unofficial ! He seemed very grateful for what I had done for him, and as I had sent back the Datoh Perba, and restored to him what was left of his house, he had every right to be. " June 2jth. I was up early this morning, and went to Mass at the Cathedral, which is modern and larger than the one at Singapore, but not so clean or well- kept. Mass was said by a Chinese priest, so rever- ently and quietly ; he had a light thin moustache and, I think, a pigtail under his chasuble. He is a confessor, having been imprisoned and condemned to death, and finally banished for the faith. After Mass was over I went into the sacristy and asked him for his blessing. I had a talk also with Fr. Delonette, who told me several things about St. Francis Xavier which I had not known before. " In the afternoon I went to see the athletic sports a great concourse of people of all shades of skin, and every kind of colour and costume. The 3rd Buffs did most of the racing. Captain Howarth won the foot race (Ladies' Prize), to the great delight of his wife. I gave three prizes first, second, and third for a 300 yards foot race, and it was the closest and best race of the day. I stayed till dusk and gave away the prizes. There was immense excitement over a tug-of-war, when the Malay police pulled against a team of Klings, 1 and equal excitement when the soldiers pulled over the Malay police, who had defeated the Klings. I believe, however, that Malays could beat an ordinary man-of-war's crew in a long pull on the water. They have been known to row forty-five miles in one night. ... By the way, do you know that our friend (and your friend's husband) 1 The name given by the Malays for the Tamils of Southern India, 278 JAKUN SCHOOL-GIRLS Rajah Mahdi was, in his time, a famous pirate, and quiet as he looks has killed his dozen or so men ? " With regard to my journeys, they have been very interesting but not specially eventful. The roads are tolerable, in some parts excellent. Most of the flat ground is taken up with the cultivation of rice. The Malays use a very primitive plough, and it is dragged by that most antediluvian-looking animal, the water buffalo man and buffalo generally working up to their knees in mud and water. All the flats are dotted over with clumps of coco-nuts, palms, and bananas, and each clump contains a dwelling, and yet, in spite of living in a marsh, fever and malaria are unknown here. 1 The richness of vegetation on the higher ground is indescribable ; one sees every kind of palm-tree, and orchids and wonderful flowering creepers, many of which were quite new to me. In the clearings one comes on to the plantations of tapioca and pineapples growing wild. I saw some of the latter growing out of the tiles of an old roof. The houses are very picturesque, with deep caves like Swiss chalets, but even quainter. They are generally raised high off the ground on posts. " June 2%th. Yesterday, after the mail had left, I went to visit the convent, which is a nice bungalow house with large grounds planted with coco-nut trees stretching down to the sea. There were about one hundred and twenty children, but a good many were absent on account of its being Sunday ; of these about thirty were paying scholars. The Rev. Mother pointed out les sauvages to me Jakun girls. There were about a dozen of them ; one of whom Fr. Delonette described as being une ires bonne fille, and said she was going to be a lay-sister ; but as they have a way of running off to the woods when they are grown up, I should think they could hardly count on her vocation. I asked if there were any descend- ants of the Portuguese amongst them, and about fifty were made to stand forward all quite dark. Swettenham tells me that they seldom intermarry with the natives, though their appearance would 1 Sir Frederick must have been misinformed on this point, as they are very prevalent. ST. JOHN'S FORT 279 lead one to think so. It is sad, however, to see these children who bear some of the noblest historical names in the world, such as D' Albuquerque, De Castro, De Souza, Gonzales, and Pereira the latter being probably of the same family as St. Francis Xavier's great friend, merchant princes in their day so poor that they can hardly pay a few cents for their schooling, and are often clothed out of charity. The nuns asked if I could give them increased Government assistance, and I hope to be able to do so. They have a number of Chinese orphans, but hardly any Malays. I drove afterwards with Fr. Delonette to the priest's house to call on 'Fr . De Souza, who welcomed me warmly, and told me I was the first Catholic Governor to enter the church (which is hideously renovated outside) since the Portuguese lost Malacca two hundred and fifty years ago. I called afterwards on the officers' quarters, and later on drove with Swettenham into the old town and saw some exceedingly curious old houses, and the interior of a Chinese temple or joss-house. We also called on two rich Chinese, and had tea with them, and saw all kinds of beautiful and rare curios. These houses were charming, with open courts, and gardens. Whampoa's house is cjuite European by comparison, and not half so interesting. " June 28th. Up at 5 a.m., and off at 6 to drive to Kessang, Swettenham and I in one carriage, Gordon and Superintendent of Police in another. We visited hot springs and Government forest reserves ; also a French naturalist, who insisted on making me accept a magnificent collection of bird-skins, for which I shall have to make him a magnificent present ! He also pressed a most fascinating little monkey on me, but this I refused. She was long-haired, and her affection for her master was so great as to be almost ludicrous. She put her arm round his neck, and cried when he made her leave him, though she obeyed him all the same. " On my way back I climbed up a hill to see a fine old fort called St. John's. It was quite perfect and very interesting ; I could trace the side from which the attack was made, the bullets and shot marks being still visible ; it was taken from the 280 RETURN TO THE PLUTO Portuguese by the Dutch. I also visited the hospital and gaol. " 2gth. Very tired last night, and slept till 8 a.m. Mass was at 9 at the Cathedral. Then in- spected military hospital, and chose a new site. Settled also question of new site for a school, and went on to see a curious Armenian tomb in the Protestant Church. A good many Government matters came before me, and had to be decided upon. I also pardoned two men ; the wife and children of one of them came to implore me to let him off, and I found on investigating the case that the husband and his fellow-culprit had been punished enough already (it was not a very serious offence), so I cut short the punishment, which will save the family from desti- tution. One has so often to refuse, that it is pleasant to be able sometimes to act according to the dictates of mercy, and one's own inclinations. " I start this afternoon for Pangkalan Balak. It is possible that I may go to Purang first, as there has been an outbreak of the beri-beri sickness in that district, and if Dr. Mackinnon thinks my presence there would be of any use I should visit it first. " July I5 ^ Before leaving Malacca a great number of Chinese merchants came to visit me in order to wish me good-bye. I suggested to them that as the new school will be much used by their com- patriots, they might subscribe and pay for the site, and I would have a tablet put up with the names of the donors, They seemed to approve of the idea. That night, Swettenham and I embarked from a little native village twenty miles north of Malacca after a delightful drive, much of it through jungle and high trees ; a good road, and very shady and pleasant. We walked about a mile from the police station to the beach. The boat was waiting for us on a smooth sandy shore, and a number of strange- shaped boats and vessels were pulled up on the beach, and equally strange natives in quaint cos- tumes were assembled to see us go on board. We pulled off for a mile or two past fishing stakes stretching far into the sea, and reached the Pluto. The sunset was a beautiful one the sea a dead calm, and of a purplish-leaden hue, the promontory and island to A CHINESE BEAUTY 281 our north, a low streak of dark neutral tint, and, where the sun had set, crimson light against a deep blue sky. We dined on deck under an awning ; I had one cigar afterwards, and slept comfortably a cool night till morning. We had anchored at the mouth of the Linggi River, and at an early hour we left the Pluto to come in at high tide, and got into a boat with awnings, and were towed up the stream past Sampang, till we got to Permatang Passir. The latter is quite a town on a small scale, and they had made great preparations for our arrival ; the houses were all decorated with red stuffs, and a canopy stretched for me to sit under, and a great firing off of crackers, and salute of small cannons greeted us on landing. Here we were met by Captain Murray, the Resident, who took us part of the way on horseback, and afterwards in his wagonette, for about twenty miles till we reached the Residency, which is a good-sized bungalow on the top of a hill. About two miles before we got there, we passed through a town called Kassa, inhabited by Chinese and Malays, and were met outside it by the principal Malay chiefs, the Datoh Klana and Datoh Bandar, dressed up in gala costumes. When we got inside the town we were received by Malays with banners and standards of feathers, and a procession of Chinese with tom-toms. The prettiest part of the show was a procession of eight little Chinese girls, dressed in gorgeous silks and brocades the children themselves being beautifully painted like little china figures ; one was perfectly lovely with almond-shaped eyes and long eye-lashes. I had no idea a Chinese could be so exquisitely pretty. She looked about ten or twelve years of age. The firing off of cannon and crackers was perfectly deafening, and they threw handfuls of crackers under the very feet of the horses, who, strange to say, did not seem to mind it the least. The journey, to-day, lav through a richly wooded country with plantations and villages at considerable intervals from each other. Six years ago no white man had ever penetrated so far into the interior, and there were only a few Malays living in the jungle and scarcely any of the ground was cultivated. When we reached the Presidency, 282 A BATTLE-SCENE the police force which numbers about thirty strong, and whose parade-ground is overlooked by it fired a salute from seventeen field-guns. There are a good many tin ' washings ' in this neighbourhood. The country rises into high wooded hills behind the Residency, and nutmeg trees, coffee and many other curious plants, including ipecacuanha, grow in the gardens which surround it. " July 2nd. This morning, after first breakfast, we started to ride to a hilltop about eleven miles from here ; when we had nearly reached the summit we dismounted and walked up about three hundred steps, which brought us to a little bungalow built of palm leaves and bamboos. The hill is about 1 500 feet above the sea, and there is a magnificent view from it. The Pahang Peak in the Bendahara's country on the east side of the Peninsula is visible from here, and southwards one can see almost as far as Malacca, and northwards towards Selangor. The blues, and lilacs, and pearly tints were softened in the distance with a delicate haze, and here and there a curl of white smoke, or patch of yellowish-greenish cultivated ground, relieved the brilliant green of the jungle in the middle distance. At our feet was a deep precipice overgrown with wild plantain (banana) and fern. We have just been watching a huge centipede hunted by hundreds of black ants. It lasted over half an hour, and was a most curious sight. The ants would have killed him, but the middle and tail of the pack came across another party of ants, and a desperate fight ensued. Ulti- mately the centipede, after many doubles in which he contrived to throw most of his pursuers off the scent was only followed by a few of the leading hounds, finally only by one, and he, after running back for assistance, and not getting any, gave up the chase. The centipede was thick and scaly, and nearly four inches long. He made a good fight for life, and deserved to get off, though he did so by a narrow squeak. At one time he had hundreds of ants after him, and twenty or thirty on his body, biting his eyes and ears ; if the ants had had a good whipper- in they must have killed him. We have seen three flying lizards since we came here, and some horn- SEREMBAN 283 bills. This house is built on high posts ; it only contains one bedroom, a bathroom, dining-room, and a balcony. We (Swettenham and I) are going to sleep here to-night, and return to the Residency to-morrow afternoon. I wanted a day's complete rest in order to work up my correspondence, which is in arrears. I have also been colouring some sketches in the Malacca country. There is to be a bonfire on the peak which will be seen for miles round, in honour of my visit. As the hut is so small, Gordon remained at the Residency with Mr. Lister (Lord Ribblesdale's son) who is staying with Captain Murray. " July yd. The bonfire last night was a beautiful sight. This morning the noise of the monkeys and birds, bull-frogs, and some kind of cicala at daybreak, was indescribable. I took a long rest and did not get up till 8 a.m. A great fog came rolling up from the sea whilst I was dressing the effect of it was rather fine ; it looked almost like the smoke of a bush-fire. I had just got out of my bath and the temperature went down so much that I was glad to put on my warmest clothes. " July 4th. We came down from the hill yester- day, leaving the temperature at 73 in the shade, and returned to the Residency at Seremban. I went in the afternoon to look at the ' experimental garden,' which was very interesting, and to see the police shooting at a target. In the evening, after dinner, we went to see a play at the Chinese theatre a very funny performance. Some of the actors' dresses were most gorgeous, brocades covered with gold and silver embroidery. Tom-toms and gongs were strummed upon all the time, marking the inflection of the voice like an accompaniment. The stage voices especially in the ladies' parts were raised to a sort of squeak, which had the funniest effect. We stayed there nearly two hours, and left the wicked Rajah engaged in making love to an Empress or she to him she sitting on a chair of state behind a table with a red cloth on it, whilst he was perched up on something which looked like a baby's chair at the other end of the stage. People went in and put all the time and did not seem to take much interest in the performance. The story was the old, 284 A STAG-HUNT old one of the wicked Baron (or Rajah) making love to the virtuous peasant's wife, with an Emperor and Empress thrown in the former dressed like an absolute nightmare. There was a good deal of pantomime introduced, acrobatic feats, etc. One Chinaman pulled himself up to a beam by his own pigtail, passing afterwards over it. I thought his scalp would have come off, and I noticed he held on to his head when the performance was over, as if he had found it rather uncomfortable. On our return through the village to the Residency we saw numbers of Chinese gambling in the market- place. I should have liked to have stopped to have seen a little more of it, but of course could not do so. ' This morning 5th July we started, on horse- back, to shoot sambur (red deer), Captain Murray having organised a great hunt ; but there was only one seen, and nobody got a shot at it. There are elephants in the neighbouring jungles one was seen here not very long ago, but they can only be got at by studying their haunts, and giving more time to it then I have to spare. This evening some chiefs from the State of Sri Menanti, which is not very far from here, came to me to complain of their ruler, and of the interference of the Maharajah of Johore. I told them that if they wished, and the ruler agreed, the British Government would advise them on matters of policy, also on their internal economy, and that such advice would probably lead to peace, and a more stable government, " July ^th. Steam-yacht Pluto. Off mouth of Klang River. I have just heard that a mail is waiting at Klang for our letters. We left the Seremban Resid- ency yesterday ; I inspected the hospital and gaol at Rasak and wished the Datoh Klana and Datoh Banda good-bye. Captain Murray drove us four or five miles, as far as the Datoh Banda 's place ; then we mounted and rode by a jungle path through thick forests to Lukut. We hardly saw a living creature all the way, and had to go slowly as the ground in places was very boggy, almost under water. Mr. Douglas, Resident of Selangor, came in a beautiful steam-yacht of about 40 or 50 tons to meet me at the mouth of the river at Lukut, and to take me THE SULTAN OF SELANGOR 285 to the Pluto. In the night we steamed up the coast to Jugra in order to pay our respects to the old Sultan of Selangor. The river at that part is still and deep with forests of mangrove on either side. There is a curious hill at Jugra like a pyramid with a flattened apex ; all the surrounding country is covered with dense jungle. The Sultan, who is a very queer old fellow, sent his ghari to meet us, and we partly drove and partly walked to his house, through a rather pretty scattered village. We were saluted here by some small guns, and his son, Rajah Musa, met us, and led me into the enclosure, and up to a reception-house, on the steps of which I was met by the Sultan, Abdul Samat. He was splendidly got up, with a magnificent sword which had been presented to him by the Queen, and wore a kind of hussar jacket, a rich sarong, slippers, and some fine diamond rings. The reception-house was a handsome building, carpeted inside, and with a table in the centre covered with fruit, flowers, and silver. We sat around it on a raised platform. The room was surrounded by a verandah, but separ- ated from it by screens, so that the people could see all that was going on without pressing too closely. The Sultan appeared to be exceedingly pleased at my visit, and at my congratulations on the improved state of the country of late years, etc. etc. He struck me as being in his dotage, but the Resident told me he thought he was only very nervous. However, he seemed much delighted, and after some talking he subsided, and sat chattering in a low voice to himself. " After taking leave of the Sultan we got on board the boat again and were towed by the steam- launch over a very shallow bar to the Pluto, where I was glad to get a bath and second breakfast. We saw some bright blue crabs, a small crocodile, and walking fish, on the banks of the river. Poor Rajah Mahdi is here ; he is very ill indeed ; we are going to land him this afternoon in his own country I believe to die. We are now steaming into the Klang River, and shall soon arrive at the village of Klang, where we sleep to-night at Captain Douglas's house. To-morrow we go on to Kuala Lumpur, and shall 21 286 KUALA LUMPUR stay there and make excursions in the neighbour- hood till the 1 2th, when we return to Klang. So far the expedition has been a most successful one, and I have enjoyed it immensely. Mr. Swettenham is a very pleasant companion ; he is fond of this kind of life, and knows all about the country and the people, besides talking the language perfectly. " July 9th. I have just heard that a vessel is leaving, and this letter, if sent off within an hour, may catch it. When I last wrote we were in the straits of Klang ; we steamed up the river between green wooded banks till we reached the town, where we were received with a salute from an old fort erected on a hill commanding the river. This fort was formerly held by our friend the old Rajah Mahdi, and is supposed to be the scene of many wild exploits in the old piratical days. The jetty was decorated with every kind of gay hangings, and I drove up from there to the Residency, where I was received by Mrs. Douglas and her daughters, and I after- wards made a circuit of the town with Captain Douglas. It is a pretty little town, but is being deserted for Kuala Lumpur, which is farther inland. " loth. We left early, and were towed by a steam-launch up the river. We saw a kingfisher with a brilliant orange head and red and blue wings, some pigeons, but no alligators ; the banks were thickly wooded, and the river got very muddy and narrow as we advanced, till, reaching Demarsarah, we left the boats and took to the saddle. From thence we rode to Kuala Lumpur, where a grand reception awaited us. Some thousands of people turned out, and the streets were decorated with strips of coloured cloth and bunting and triumphal arches. "This morning (nth) we were up early, and Mr. Swettenham, Captain Douglas, Daly, and I went out shooting after deer but, alas, we saw none. I missed a little pig and got three jungle fowl. The latter are said to be the ancestors of our barn-door fowls, and certainly resemble them very much, but they fly like pheasants. We saw lots of tracks of elephants, mostly about ten days old. The jungle is extraordinarily interesting such a A BUFFALO-DRIVE 287 variety of bird- and insect-life. I saw a man who had been attacked by a tiger on the road, and been badly clawed by him, and would undoubtedly have been killed had not his little boy (of six or seven years of age) thrown his basket at the tiger, where- upon the tiger retreated ! The man's wounds are now healed, but he was ill for a long time from the shock. Tigers seldom attack men, never a man on horseback ; they have, however, a special fancy for Chinamen. " July i 2th. We were in the saddle yesterday at 5.30, on our way to Batu. The country we passed through was thinly populated; undulating, with occasional views of distant hills, the foreground mostly jungle. We stopped for a short time at Batu, where a Malay chief, a native of Pahang, had made great preparations for our arrival, decorated the village (the people of which are mostly Sakais l ), and got a chair of state ready for me in his house, which was also prettily decorated. After leaving Batu we got into thick jungle with fine forest trees, a path had been cut for us through it, so it was rideable. There was an endless variety of beautiful flowers I longed for you to see them. After pro- ceeding for some miles, we suddenly came on to a huge rock, about four or five hundred feet high, absolutely perpendicular and rising like a great fort or castle out of the forest, with trees and twisted roots growing out of it and clasping and crowning it. I have never seen anything resembling it. It seemed like an island in the vast forest, and its up- heaval was probably due to volcanic action. There is another rock very similar to this one in Perak, they tell me, called Gunong Pondok. A river was running at its feet and partly surrounded it. We had now come to our hunting ground ; so we separated, Mr. Douglas, Swettenham and I forming one party, under the guidance of the village chief and two Sakais. We tracked a herd of buffalo (Bos sondai-. acus) for fully an hour, but never saw them. They had been on the ground that morning, as the blades of grass they had bitten and trodden down had not yet withered. We saw nothing to shoot except a bird 1 One of the original tribes of the Peninsula. 288 A MAMMOTH CAVE about as big as a guinea-fowl, and very like one in shape, but of a most gorgeous colour, peacock green, gold, and orange ; it ran along the ground close to me. The hen-bird seemed dark ; if I had had my shot-gun with me I could have killed them both. After walking for three hours in the forest, we returned to the big rock where we had left Dr. Mackinnon and Miss Douglas. The other party, consisting of Captain Rhodes, Dr. Barrington of the Buffs, and Mr. Taylor, an officer of the Ordnance Department, had not been more successful than we were. We then climbed up a steep path, and at the height of about a hundred feet above the level ground we found ourselves at the mouth of a huge cave, in which luncheon had been got ready. " I must describe it : picture to yourself a huge banqueting-hall, with a dome-shaped roof about 300 feet high, and at least 150 feet long, with great apertures in the roof through which the light streamed, softened into green and gold by the overhanging trees. The Malays have a legend that a fairy princess lives in the summit of this great crag into which no human foot has penetrated and that when she shows herself to a man she brings him good fortune. I can imagine no more appropriate spot for a fairy dwelling-place. Standing within the cave, and looking out of its dark framework of stalactite pillars and buttresses into the sunlight, and wealth of tropical vegetation stretching away for miles below me, I really felt that it was worth while making the tour of the globe if only to see that sight. " Having got very wet and hot in our tramp in the forest, I was very glad to be able to change my wet clothes in a recess of the cave. I was attended by two Malays, who watched the operation with much earnestness and reverence, as if they were witnessing a religious ceremonial ; probably they thought it was one ! Luncheon followed, which was a most picturesque affair, groups of Malays and Sakais in every kind of dress, and undress, in marvellous variety of colour, some armed with parangs, 1 and other curiously shaped weapons, stood or squatted around us. It was like a scene in a play stage i Cutlass. A MALAY SCENE 289 brigands and all complete. After luncheon we explored the caves by torchlight ; thousands of bats, disturbed by the light, flew over our heads. I shot one or two for Dr. Barrington, and the noise of the reverberations through the caves was very grand. When we came to the last one they gave three cheers for ' the Governor ' the first one who had ever penetrated into these wilds. We afterwards went down to the river, and I tried to catch a fish, with both fly and minnow. It was no good ; so the Malays (who are not particular how they get their fish) threw the root of a plant called ' tuba ' into the water, which has the effect of stupefying them, and before long they come to the top. Such a scene followed ; the Malays shouted and yelled, throwing themselves into the water and hitting the fish with sticks, and laughing just like a heap of schoolboys. They killed about a hundred or two small fish, like our roach. There was one rather larger, of about 4 or 5 Ib. weight, and a few that looked like barbel, of from i to 3 Ib. weight. Though it was poaching, it was great fun, and reminded me of fishing the brooks at Stony- hurst on ' good days.' We got home in time for me to have a short nap after my bath before dinner. We dined at the Capitan China's, 1 and it was a great function. The reception-hall I described in my last letter was, I find, built expressly for this occasion. As I entered, with Mrs. Daly, the military police, who numbered about forty, presented arms, and the bugles sounded. This was the signal for the explosion of Chinese crackers a performance which lasted fully a quarter of an hour. The Capitan's expenditure in crackers must have been portentous. The dinner began with birds' nest soup, the rest of the dinner was European. When it was over the Capitan proposed the health of the Queen Empress, then mine ; after which I proposed that of the Sultan of Selangor, and Douglas the Capitan's ; all short speeches. " After this I should not have been sorry to have been allowed to go to bed, but the Chinese had got up an entertainment in my honour at their theatre, so I had to go. It was allegorical, and 1 The head Chinese of a State goes by that name. 2 9 o CHINESE ENTERTAINMENT represented all the rival Rajahs, headed by the Sultan, giving up their quarrels and putting them- selves under the Governor's protection, and doing him homage. The absurd part of it was that in spite of there being an actor on the stage who represented the Governor they, perpetually, one after the other, bowed down before me. Afterwards they sang an ode of welcome in which they wished me every kind of prosperity, a long reign as Governor, and so forth. I can't describe the gorgeousness of the principal personages, Rajahs, Sultan, Governor, etc., with their banners and dresses of the most brilliant colours, and rich materials, stiff with embroideries in gold and silver. Also women who were supposed to be riding on hobby-horses of which the heads only were visible, the rest being hidden by masses of rich drapery. Then there were tumblers executing wonderful antics in scarlet trousers and blue jackets. One was constantly reminded of the medieval pageants which one reads of in history. I was glad to leave as soon as the part addressed to me was over, and got to bed about 12 p.m. after a very hard day's work. ' July i^th. In the morning I went over a tapioca factory. I also received a Malay deputation and inspected the government offices. The Malay spokesman was eloquent about the good my coming would do in this country, and said that it was clear that I took an interest in the people and wished them well, and that they all hoped I should long be Governor, and should return shortly to see them again ; and after I had replied, and said that the Queen took much interest in the welfare of all the countries under her protection, they answered that they knew she must be good, and anxious to help them, for, whereas formerly they had suffered much from wars and rapine and oppression, now they lived in happiness and security. I also received a Chinese deputation about mining and other busi- ness. July 1 4th. On board s.s. Pluto at anchor, mouth of Klang River. We started this morning on horseback at 5.30. As we rode through the town (Kuala Lumpur), we stopped to visit the gaol CROCODILE-SHOOTING 2 9 1 a temporary one and found the sentry, musket in hand, fast asleep in an easy-chair ! I had to settle the site of a new fort and Residency there ; after this was done we rode on to Damansara through the usual forest scenes, hearing but not seeing a number of hornbills who made a great noise in the trees over our heads. We got on board steam- launch at Damansara, and on to the Pluto at Klang, but did not land to take leave of Mrs. Douglas as I had a slight touch of gout. The Ranee Mahdi came off to see me, with presents for you and Minnie and a petition for me. The old man is very ill. We have dropped down the river, and shall lie at the mouth of the straits to-night, as we expect a steamer with Singapore letters. " J u fy i$th. Gout better this morning, having been doctored by Mackinnon. Proceeded north- wards along the coast to Sungei Buloh, a little archi- pelago of rocky islands which have been lately populated by fishing people who say that they are safe from pirates now that they are under the Queen's protection ; formerly their wives and daughters and they themselves ran the risk of being carried off into slavery. We anchored, and went up a river to shoot crocodiles a very narrow and muddy creek with slimy banks overhung by mangroves which sometimes almost met over our heads. It was full of crocodiles, and before long we caught a glimpse of the ' wake ' of one in the water, but did not get a shot till we passed the village ; then as we rounded a point two big brutes rushed, or rather tumbled, out of the jungle over the slimy banks into the water, but the point of land prevented my getting a shot. The next minute two more came down off the mud on the other side, and I managed to shoot them both, right and left. I had two more shots, and I believe both were hit, but they got down into the water and were lost. Captain Rhodes hit one, Gordon did not get a shot, and Mr. Swettenham gave me his chance. We are now about to land at an ancient Dutch fort at Selangor, which is in ruins. We were to have made an expedition to shoot water buffaloes to-morrow, but it is very tame work, almost like shooting cows, and as I have still some 292 A DUTCH FORTRESS gout about me it is not worth while to risk a wetting in the marshes, so I have given it up. " Jufy 1 6th. Selangor River. 11 I have just been ashore at Kuala Selangor, which was once an important place but now is only a collection of huts. The police quarters are in the Dutch fort, a very interesting old place on a hill overlooking a wide stretch of sea-straits, and miles of forest and jungle tenanted by elephants, and tigers, and all kinds of wild animals. The earth- works were planted with senna trees by the Dutch and they have now attained a great size. Some guns are still there, and the remains of the gate, and some of the outworks. The Dutch built the fort about two hundred years ago, and used to levy blackmail on the traders on the river ; the Malays stormed it, and took it from them. Rajah Mahdi held it for some time against our troops in the late war, and put many shot-holes into H.M.S. Rinaldo from his guns ; but the Rinaldo was pluckily handled by Captain Robinson (a brother of our friend Sir Hercules), and he shelled the outer fort from the sea, and stormed it, and then boldly ran up the river and attacked the position at close quarters, and the old Rajah had to give in. " July ijth. Steam-yacht Pluto, Dindings. " In my last letter I told you about the old Dutch fort. I forgot to mention that in front of the gateway stands a large flat stone upon which the Sultans of Selangor are installed on their accession just like the famous stone of Scone which was afterwards brought to Westminster Abbey. Captain Douglas, the Resident, left us to-day after dinner. I gave him permission to keep the old Residency at Kuala Lumpur as a guest-house, and for the use of the Sultan when he was there. It seems singular to present the Sultan with a house in his own country, but without this permission he would not think of taking it. There are reasons of policy which make it advisable that he should have a suitable house at Selangor, and Douglas says that the permission to make use of it will please him very much, and he will look upon it as a great mark of friendship. We entered the Bernam River this morning a very THE BINDINGS 293 wild country covered with jungle, and with hardly any inhabitants visible on its banks. We steamed for sixteen miles to Sabah, a small village where I was received on landing by Rajah Hitam, who has the reputation of being a troublesome man, and by his brother Rajah Indor, who has that of being a very good fellow. The manner and appearance of the latter were very prepossessing, and Mr. Swettenham speaks highly of his services to us in the late war. We went afterwards to the court-house (police- station) and then to Rajah Indor's house. When I asked Rajah Hitam if they had any grievances to complain of, he expressed himself as quite satisfied ; I found, however, that it was possible to make one or two changes in the revenue, especially in abolishing a tax on salt fish, which presses heavily on the poor ; its abolition will be of considerable service to the lower classes in the district. I spent most of the afternoon finishing and colouring some sketches. I have got one of Malacca, another of a sunset after leaving Malacca territory, two of Sungei Ujong, and one, a large sized one, taken from Mr. Kaye's plantation. I also took one this morning at Sabah. When we got out of the river we steered northwards to the Bindings. There was rather a heavy sea and a fine dark red and yellow sunset behind the islands, so we put off dinner till we got into smooth water between the largest island, Pulau Pangkor, and the mainland. Properly speaking, it is the mainland which is called Binding, the word meaning wall, because the coast at that spot is high and precipitous. The entrance to the river is a very fine one, with a good harbour ; here we anchored for the night. Mr. Bruce, the Superintendent and the Penghulu, Hadji Hakim, a very nice old man, came off to us. " July 1 8th. I got up at daybreak this morning, and painted, and wrote a dispatch before breakfast. We went on shore afterwards, and were received by a military police guard of Sikhs. A lovely spot, such fine wooded hills and bold rocks, and a smooth beach with coco-nut trees, and a mosque, and clear brook with a bridge over it all embosomed in foliage. The population is very small, mostly fishermen, and, when we saw it, looked peaceful enough ; two years 294 A GAY RECEPTION ago, however, it was the scene of a tragedy. Some Chinese pirates came over to the island, killed Captain Lloyd the superintendent, wounded his wife who luckily escaped and left another woman, a Mrs. Innes, to all appearance dead, though she afterwards recovered. We looked at sites for a new Residency, and then went to another bay to examine the ruins of an old Dutch fort which had been visited by Dampier the great navigator early in the seventeenth century. On returning to the Pluto we steamed up the Binding River or, rather, arm of the sea a most beautiful view, with hills in the background like a Scottish sea-loch. I made a sketch of it, and must now go on deck to see the last of this lovely scenery before it gets dark. After dinner we shall land Hadji Hakim and Mr. Bruce, and then steam on to Larut. The Hadji considers himself badly used by the Regent of Kedah, and I have had to make peace between them. " July iQth. Thaiping, Perak. ' This morning I woke at 4 a.m., went on deck, had coffee and biscuits and a smoke, and enjoyed the nice cool breeze in an easy-chair and seeing the sun rise. We arrived at Lukut before breakfast- shoal banks no vessel drawing more water than the Pluto could get in. About 10 p.m. she missed the channel, and got stuck in the mud. We took a boat and soon after met Mr. Low, 1 the Resident, steaming out in his launch to meet us. We were towed by the launch to Teluk Kertang, and after passing through various villages arrived at Thaiping. We visited a hospital, custom-house, the old Mantri's house which it is proposed to turn into a prison, and a police-station on the way. The village and roads we passed were decorated with flags and arches, and flowery wreaths, and complimentary mottoes in English and Malay. At Thaiping a great crowd had assembled, and a salute of artillery was fired, and the military police, all Sikhs (in dark turbans, red tunics, and white trousers), formed a guard of honour. Few regiments could equal them in appearance with their handsome bronze faces, soldierly bearing, and fine physique. Thaiping is quite a little town, being 1 The late Sir Hugh Low, K.C.M.G. TIN MINES AT KAMUNTING 295 sorrounded with tin mines ; part of it was burnt down very recently, and I authorised a loan to help to rebuild it, much to the satisfaction of the people. The Residency is on a round knoll above the town ; the tin diggings and washings are close by, beyond that come small cultivations, and, farther still, high wooded hills. 1 July 22nd. Residency, Kuala Kangsa. " In the evening of the day I dispatched my letter to you (iQth) we walked round some villages and mines, and inspected a hospital which had been extemporised for the beri-beri cases. The patients are ordered spirits, and had an extra glass given to them to commemorate my visit. We visited several places with a view to investigating the origin of this mysterious disease. So far no theory can account for it. The mines are exceedingly interesting. They are nearly all worked by water ; the mineral riches in tin of this country are practically inex- haustible. The local Capitan China owns several mines ; in one alone he employs over 1000 coolies. Mr. Caulfield, an engineer, took me over the mines, and Mr. Low drove me afterwards to see the principal Chinese village here called Kamunting. The next day (20th) I drove in the morning before breakfast to see some more mines, and a cottage hospital for coolie miners, and chose a site for a new one. Also went to see the market-place. Received a deputation of Chinese, with a few Malays, on the subject of tenure of lands ; also on rebuilding houses, and some other questions. Late in the afternoon I drove to the parade ground, and saw the military police, infantry and artillery parade under Major Swin- bourne, and Mr. Walker 1 of the 28th, the latter was A. B.C. at one time to Sir William Robinson. I never saw anything better than the appearance of the troops. The Sikhs are many of them six foot high, well-made, and very good-looking. Their uniform is all blue with white belts (when on guard of honour, red with white trousers) and black turbans with a scarlet tag. The native officers also wear black and gold pugarees hanging down their backs 1 Colonel R. S. Walker, C.M.G., for many years Commandant of the Malay Sikh Guides. 296 THE SIKH FORCE from their turbans, and sashes. The artillerymen were a smaller lot ; they had two brass howitzers and one Krupp 6-pounder. They were very smart indeed ; the evolutions, especially skirmishing and bayonet practice, was excellent. Though only about 130 men were on the ground, it was really a fine sight. I sat most of the time in an arm-chair with a Sikh orderly holding an umbrella over my head. Then we returned to the barracks and saw the Sikhs wrestle. It was quite a scientific performance in its way. The bronze-like figures of the men, their graceful postures, and lithe, wiry, and yet often muscular limbs, would have made a splendid study for a sculptor or painter. Their activity is really wonderful ; some couples were more than half an hour before one threw the other, or before one laid the other on his back a feat which is necessary for victory. " July 2 $rd (Sunday). I went to early Mass, 7 a.m. It was lucky my gout was gone, for I had to walk a little way there being no road, only a path to the mission-house and church. The Chinese sang hymns and litanies nearly all the time Mass was being said, and three or four Eurasians sang the Ave Maris Stella. The church was poor but neat, the congregation consisting of about four or five hundred Chinese, but the church could hardly hold them. After Mass I had a cup of chocolate with Fr. Allard, and was met on my way back to the Residency by Mr. Low who took me to see the gaol. It was beautifully clean, and very well arranged, dry, and in a good situation. I cannot understand why beri-beri should have broken out here. They gave the men extra rations of meat in hopes of stopping it, but nothing had any effect. The sick are now being removed to the temporary hospital at Kamun- ting. " On Friday night a tiger which has often been seen prowling about the village, and which had killed a deer in the garden, at about 7 p.m. jumped out of the bush into the road on to some Chinese who were returning from the mines and ' played with them like a kitten ' I was informed. The Chinese were terribly alarmed, and shrieked and made such a row that the tiger left them and ran away. One ran KUALA KANGSA 297 into the dhobi's house which was close by, so we asked the man to show us the tiger's footprints. They were quite distinct on the roadside, and the impression of his claws in the clay where he had jumped, across a little brook, was as strong as if it had been taken in plaster of Paris . His foot was about as broad as a cheese plate, I could not quite span it with my outstretched hand. " After breakfast we went to look at the military police hospital : a fort is to be built here, the site was chosen by Captain Rhodes ; it commands the town and barracks, and the road from Kamunting. Later on we started inland for Kuala Kangsa a beautiful drive, by a good, but unfinished road. Mr. Low has had broad drains made by the side of the road, a plan I much approve of. After a short time we got amongst the hills into lovely wooded country. We saw several ponds covered with the broad leaves and exquisite flowers of the pink lotus, or water-lily, the flower which in India is sacred to Buddha. The villages (two or three) which we passed through were prettily decorated. The distance to Kuala Kangsa was about twenty- two miles, and after we had come about seventeen in a pony carriage, we were met by elephants which had been sent to take us the rest of the way. One, a huge fellow with grand tusks, was destined for me and Mr. Low to ride. We climbed slowly over the narrow pass, still traversing beautiful hill and forest country, a clear stream flowing over rocks at one side, when we saw suddenly in front of us a huge, isolated rock about 400 feet high resembling the hill containing the caves which I described to you in Selangor. I took a rough sketch of it from the elephant's back. A little later on we met another elephant with a load of coco-nuts on his back, whose tusks had been cut off. He seemed rather alarmed at our elephant (who took no notice of him) and still more so at a pony that followed in the ghari. It is a singular thing that a huge animal like an elephant should be frightened at ponies, and still more so at the smallest dog. A few miles farther on we came to a coffee plantation owned by a Mr. Wrey, where we stopped for a short time and went to see his 298 EASTERN ETIQUETTE nursery-garden with some fine tea plants ; three or four miles more brought us to Kuala Kangsa. Kuala signifying river mouth, for here the little Kangsa River flows into the Perak River. We found great preparations there for my reception. The village street and the path leading up to the Residency, which stands on a slight eminence, was decorated with arches, crimson hangings, and inscriptions. The military police were drawn up at regular in- tervals, presenting arms as we passed, and all the people turned out and much salaaming and bowing ensued, whilst the cannon fired a salute of seventeen guns. The Rajah Jusup, the acting Sultan of Perak, Rajah Idris, Chief Justice, and about twenty Rajahs and Penghulus chiefs of districts received me in the centre of the town, where we dismounted, and walked up all together to the Residency. You can imagine what a striking picture it made the gay show and brilliant uniform and dresses, with the background of quaint Malay houses, buried in palms and coco-nut trees, the broad river, 300 yards wide, and, in the distance, a beautiful view of mountains. All the native ladies had congregated in a kind of open pavilion close to the Residency, in order to see the procession up to it. I was told afterwards that they would have been highly pleased if I had gone in and spoken to them. The ' Robber Datoh/ Toh Sri Lela, told me he would have made no objection ; however, on such a complicated subject as the Eastern code of etiquette it was better to keep on the safe side ! " I held a durbar on my arrival with the Regent and other chiefs which went off very well, and I am told gave great satisfaction. " This is such a comfortable house, a charming view from it, and everything so well done. I hear they are trying to arrange an elephant-shoot for me. The difficulty is that their haunts are at a considerable distance from here (three or four days' journey), so they have been trying to attract them to this neighbourhood by turning out some lovely young she-elephants ; however, so far the stratagem does not seem to have succeeded. " July 2^ih. Mr, Low and I took a walk round THE ROBBER CHIEF 299 the town very early this morning. I saw the nursery gardens, police quarters, and lock-up, and had a talk with two Malay youths who were imprisoned there. One was very good-looking, with such a pleasant face. He said l good-morning, Tuan,' * with a smile, when I entered his cell. These two, and two more who are at large, have been convicted of the murder of a Chinese pedlar, and there can be no question about it, as they have confessed the crime. The fact is, Malays think no more of killing a Chinese than a tiger does, and yet we thanks to Mr. Low's admirable tact, courage, and good manage- ment, and the great affection they bear him are beginning to inaugurate an entirely new era in which crimes such as this, though they have not ceased, are very infrequent. When I congratulated Jusup on the law and order that prevailed, he said it was entirely due to the good counsels of the English (i.e. Mr. Low's). The two murderers who have not yet been arrested are brothers of chiefs belong- ing to this district, so there was a meeting of Rajahs to-day at the Residency to consider the case. The ' Robber chief ' told Mr. Low that he had killed so many men himself that he understood all about it, and that he did not intend to authorise such proceedings again, and agreed to have the murderers given up. He said to me, ' I am a man of few words, but what I say I do.' It is only four years ago (1876) since this man and his people made General Ross and his staff and a handful of sailors and soldiers run for their lives, close to this spot, and four or five soldiers, an officer, and a sailor were shot down before they reached their boats. The ' Robber chief ' said to me, ' You must not think, Tuan Besar, 2 that my village is as bad as men make out ; things have been said of us that we don't deserve.' It is said in the case I speak of that the village was plundered by the soldiers and sailors, and a man unjustly hanged, which was the cause of the natives' attack. There is no doubt General Ross was repri- manded for hanging the man, and the inhabitants of the village (which belongs to Toh Sri Lela) even now fear treachery, and all wore their krisses when 1 Master. 2 Great Master. 300 A DURBAR they came to see me. I rather like the chief, and would have gone to see him and his village, but Mr. Low thinks it would be unadvisable to do so till the murderers have been given up. " July 2$th. I broke this off yesterday, as Rajah Muda came to take me out fishing. He had a boat with a roof ready for me, and boatmen got up in black and yellow ; he went in another boat, Mr. Low in another, and Mackinnon in a third. We rowed about a mile down the river and I killed a sebarau, a kind of roach, with a minnow. The Rajah fished with a casting net, so did the other Rajahs. They had men beating the water and throwing in bait to attract the fish. They only got some very small fish ; mine was the biggest, and it was only about half a pound weight at most. The scenery just below the Rajah's house is very beautiful ; we saw a huge tame elephant fanning away the flies from her young one which was lying down, and every now and then sprinkling sand over it the said baby being about the size of a bullock. At night after dinner we went by invitation to see a theatrical performance, given by Rajah Muda, of dancing girls, though they could hardly be said to dance. The principal actors were a girl and her husband, who kept up a kind of dialogue he being a clown and rather funny. It was eminently decorous but rather slow, and we all got very sleepy, and were glad when we were allowed to go to bed. " 26th. I have just been holding a durbar. It took place in a court with a kind of open hall. We were met by the Capitan China, and quite a thousand people were present ; a guard of military police presented arms, and kept the space clear round a raised chair which I occupied, with carpeted steps ; the Resident and the rest had lesser seats round me. First, compliments were exchanged ; then we proceeded to business, which was mostly con- cerning mining disputes ; petitions were presented, and so on. To-morrow we go and see some caves, Sunday will be a quiet day, and then we embark for the Binding Islands on our way to Penang. The Malays have just turned up in large numbers SAKAIS 301 with a band of native instruments ; two curious drums, played on one end with a stick and on the other with the hand, a kind of gong, and a board with round pieces of metal (rather pleasant in tone), struck with a stick. We had speeches and com- pliments, a present of fowls and bananas, and then dancing ; a sword dance, a wrestling dance, an umbrella dance, and a kris dance. The performers moved slowly round each other twisting their wrists and hands, and moving their bodies and limbs into curious slow attitudes in very good time with the music. The performers, who danced two at a time, were all men. Now I am going to choose a site for a new fort, so must conclude. " July 2%th. The day after I last wrote was very wet, so I remained at home and transacted business all day. Some Sakais (aborigines) came to see me, and shot at a mark with their sumpitans, i.e. blow-pipes with arrows, which are poisoned when they are in pursuit of game or their enemies. The following day (2ist), we started at about 8.30 in seven fine boats, the decks protected from the sun by palm-leaves, and my crew dressed in yellow and black the latter came from the village which belongs to my friend the Robber chief, and seemed very good fellows. The Dragon (my boat) was formerly owned by Birch, the Resident whose murder was the cause of the Perak War. I have just finished a sketch of the river and of some Malay boats. The river is most beautiful ; it narrows a little when one gets below Kuala Kangsa, and hills rise to either side. In the evening we went ashore and I held an audience in a hut on piles at a place called Blanja. We slept on board the boats, and with a mattress and a mosquito-net we were very comfortable. " Early this morning (29th) I went out shooting on a marsh, or pond, covered with pink lotus, and azure blue water-lilies, or bog-beans. I shot a magnificent crane or heron, and had some long shots at teal and ducks. I was in a canoe; Mr. Swetten- ham, who walked, got three teal. They were ' shepherding ' a tiger for me to shoot at Blanja, but after it had killed two Chinese they thought it was time to put an end to it, so they destroyed it 22 302 ON THE RIVER KANGSA with a spring gun. We have been going down the river all the morning, and I have been finishing a sketch I began yesterday. I fear I shall have to defer my return for another week in order to go on from Perak to Penang. It is necessary I should see the Regent of Kedah ; he is a feudatory half-vassal of the King of Siam, and I have several matters to arrange with him, such as a boundary question, and a treaty for the extradition of murderers ; also about some land in dispute between him and the Penghulu of Pulau Pangkor. The Regent is a pensioner of ours, so I have a good hold over him. I have promised to send the Bendahara of Pahang some kangaroo dogs which he wants, by a messenger who takes him an elephant from the Perak authorities. Government will pay for the dogs in return for the elephant tusks he sent to Singapore. " July 3oth. I wrote the last page on board the Dragon : we did not reach Durian Sabatang till after dark last night. We passed to-day the spot where Birch was murdered. He was bathing in one of the little native bathing tanks, which are walled round with palm-leaves, and was stabbed whilst in the water, so he had no means of defending himself. When the punitive expedition was sent out, the Sultan's fort and the village were destroyed, and trees cut down, and in reprobation of the crime no one now is allowed to plant or build there. A little lower down the river we were shown the place where Captain Innes, R.E., was killed, and two officers who were with him were wounded in an attempt to storm a fort, which was afterwards taken and de- stroyed, like Abdullah's. Mr. Swettenham was in that affair. We slept at the Residency, which was occupied by Mr. Paul, who is superintendent of Lower Perak. It was late when we arrived, and we were up before daylight and walked round the town, which is a horrible hole almost under water. I was glad to get away to the steam-launch, and after re- ascending the river about three miles we entered the mouth of the Kinta River. We reached Kuala Teja that night and slept at the Residency, which is a charming house with walls made of rough attap woven into a pattern. Though the house only cost AN UNINVITED GUEST 303 one thousand dollars to build it is quite a fair size, the woodwork very good and solid, with six or seven rooms on the top storey, and a large verandah and balcony. A tiger was walking about the night we were there ; with any luck we should have seen him, as we were sitting out in the verandah smoking in bright moonlight. Now comes the strange part of the story ; the tiger who often prowls about the village on this occasion went into a small cottage, not above ten paces from the guard-house, and slept there in company with an old woman. She only woke up to find out who had been her visitor when he had gone, but there were unmistakable marks where he had curled himself up to sleep. " Juty 3 is/. We descended the river early in the morning in the same way we came up it, after frater- nising with a rather nice old fellow who is known to have committed a particularly villainous murder in the ' good old ' bad days when nobody took account of such trifles. The Kinta is narrow but deep enough to be the highway for tin and passengers. We are improving it, and I am authorising money to be raised for a road from Kota Baru, to lead in an opposite direction to Bhota on the Perak River half-way between Kuala Kangsa and Durian Sabatang. Ulti- mately we shall connect Bhota with the Binding River at a spot a little above Kota Siam. The Kinta runs through a jungle which formerly was so dense that a high-roofed boat could with difficulty get through. The vegetation is the richest I have yet come across. We have seen gangs of monkeys both here and on the Perak River. They look very pretty throwing themselves from tree to tree with an almost incredible agility. We also saw hornbills, some beautiful kingfishers, eagles, kites, and buzzards. We reached Durian Sabatong that evening at 4 p.m. and got on board the launch again, and steamed about six miles down till we found the Pluto at a spot where we are going to make a canal, about three- quarters of a mile long, to Durian Sabatong. By so doing six miles of navigation will be cut off, and it will afford a good situation for a dock which is much required, and a better site for a town than the one at present occupied by D urian Sabatong /which accordingly 304 A LEPER HOSPITAL will be moved there. After settling these matters we walked a little way along a new road which is being made, then went on board, and had a bath and dinner whilst we steamed down the fine broad river, and made for our old anchorage at Palau Pangkor. " I am much pleased with all that I have seen at Perak. It is a grand country with plenty of rich fertile land, and immense mineral resources. As to Mr. Low the Resident, he is a man after my own heart a noble fellow with a true sense of duty, an Englishman of the best type. "August ist. Steam-yacht Pluto, off Palau Pangkor (Sunday). " We are having a quiet morning at anchor here. The Penghulu and his wife and daughters came off, by invitation, to see the ship. We have settled upon a site for the house and residency here for the super- intendent, Mr. Bruce. In the evening w T e went ashore and had a hunt. I had one shot at a wild boar in the bushes, but did not stop him ; he looked rather like a tame pig. The wild boars here do not seem half as big or savage as the New Zealand ones, of which I have killed dozens with only a couple of dogs and my hunting-knife. The Punghulu also had a shot, but was unsuccessful. After dinner Mr. Low left. I was sorry to part with him ; he told me that my knowledge of Maori ways made me understand the native questions here, which I think is true. " August 2nd. We put off last night, and this morning were steaming up to Penang,and on our way we landed at Pulau Jerajah to inspect the leper hospital. It was not a pleasant duty, as some of the poor people were terrible to look at, mere wrecks of humanity, but it was a duty, and I was very glad afterwards that I had been there, and that I had had Dr. Mackinnon with whom to consult. The hospital was built by the Chinese by subscription. It stands on a flat with wooded hills in the background, and the white sandy beach in front. The building is a fine one with a central hall, and long tiled corridors and wards stretching out on either side. It is very cool and well arranged. Rows of coco-nut trees line the beach, and the view from it is most beautiful. We went through the wards and all over the premises. PENANG 305 The patients made no complaints, but after making inquiries I was able to order various improvements in their diet and so forth. After consulting with Mackinnon, and at their request, I trebled their very small allowance of tea, and we arranged, in some special cases, that the dose of opium should be in- creased. They seemed very grateful. The doctor in charge appeared an intelligent man, and Mackinnon thought well of his treatment of the patients. The view was quite lovely as we neared Penang, fine hills rising above the red-tiled roofs of the town, and quantities of boats and shipping all ( dressed,' and crowds of people in gay native costumes lining the shores. In the far distance, thirty miles off, one could just perceive the outline of the grand peak of Kedah. General Anson came off to meet me, the Buffs furnished a guard of honour, and we landed in the midst of a great clatter of guns and drove to the General's house, where I found a number of letters from you awaiting me. " August 6th. Hill Bungalow, Penang. " I have had two very busy days at Penang while staying with the Ansons at Suffolk House, and was very glad to come off here to rest, and tackle my correspondence. The day after we landed I opened the town-hall, and held an informal levee at the government offices, inspected gaol, and looked at sites for one or two new buildings. The next day we had races, which were very good. I also spent a long morning at the Missionary College. It was most interesting : there were Siamese, Chinese, Tamils, Indians and Japanese, some of them sons of martyrs, and, no doubt, some of them will be martyrs themselves. They presented me with an address, and verses in Latin. I had a very pleasant breakfast with the Fathers, who were all most kind and friendly. I went afterwards to visit the convent where there is an orphanage for girls, principally Chinese. They looked so nice in their red dresses, and had charming manners. I also saw the boys' school, where they read me an address. An addition is much required to both institutions, as though very clean and well-kept they are much too small ; I hope to be able to do something to help them. 306 THE HILL BUNGALOW ' Yesterday morning I again went to the races, and in the afternoon had business to transact at the government offices. This morning we drove off here, in order to see whether the house will be suitable (and large enough) for us to use as summer quarters. We drove to the foot of the hill, and then rode four miles up a steep though good road to the bungalow. It stands in a glorious situation with exquisite views on every side. The house consists of two cottages joined together by a very long open corridor roofed in with attap the whole containing, I should think, quite enough accommoda- tion, of the cottage kind, for our family. There are capital places for children to play in, under cover. The rooms are not large, of course, but quite as big as ordinary English bedrooms. The house stands on a peak, with paths and terraces extending in every direction and masses of palms and tree-ferns, and lovely flowers of every description, orchids, and poinciana, 1 and even some roses and geraniums. I send you a tiny rose-bud and some poor little violets to remind you of England or Brackenfield. The view from the verandah is very fine sea, straits, river, islands, and mainland with distant hills, all stretched out at one's feet. You could not fail to be enchanted with the place. The air, too, is delight- ful; and feels quite fresh and invigorating after the stifling heat of the plains. " August 7th. Kota Star, Kedah. ' I sent off an unfinished letter by the harbour- master at Penang the day before yesterday, as I heard a mail was just starting. We arrived at Kedah on the 3rd, and anchored at a roadstead some way off from the shore. Kedah, though the population is Malay, is under the protection of Siam. It was conquered by the Siamese early this century, and they have never quite loosened their hold over it. We bought Penang and Province Wellesley from a former Sultan of Kedah, and still pay a yearly sum of two thousand pounds for Penang. We also give a pension to the Regent Tunku Udin. The Rajah Yacub came off in a steam-launch to receive me. There were three boats, the launch, a very 1 Poinciana Regia : in English, " the flame of the forest," THE SULTAN OF KEDAH 307 long Siamese boat or canoe painted black and made out of a single tree, with a deck-house in the centre with silk curtains and a European boat with an awning. Rajah Yacub asked me which boat I pre- ferred, and I chose the Siamese one. There was rather a heavy ground swell, but no break on the bar, which was very shallow, their tug touched the mud slightly. We then entered the mouth of a fine river with low flat banks, swarming with croco- diles ; a curious hill, shaped exactly like an elephant lying down, in which there are caves visible in the distance. The town is situated some way up the river, at the junction of two streams. It has a good court-house and offices, and other rather fine buildings. Some Chinese junks and Malay proas lay alongside the wharves, and I also noticed a government schooner built on English lines, a smart- looking craft, amongst the shipping. We landed at a platform, which was carpeted and decorated, amidst much noise of guns firing, and a considerable crowd of spectators. The Regent received me on the steps and we drove off to a house which had been got ready for us, which is extremely comfortable and well furnished. Here the Sultan, a youth of about eighteen, received me. We sat and conversed for a short time, and then they left, and we sat down to an excellent breakfast. Rajah Yacub and his brother the Regent and the young Sultan who was a nice-looking and pleasant mannered youth wore London-made clothes with a sarong, and were very civilised in appearance. In the afternoon the Regent and Rajah Yacub came, and drove us to see the town, and later on took us to shoot alligators up the river in a boat with an awning. I missed my first shot at a small one, about five or six feet long, the shot just going over his head, but he came up again, and this time I hit him in the brain, and he never moved again. My next shot was at a very big one lying on a steep bank. I knocked him right over and he rolled down into the river. My next chance was lost, as the cartridge missed fire. After returning to Kota Star (which we did in the steam- launch) we drove with the Regent about four miles out of the town to see a charming country residence 308 ANAK BUKIT with an orange grove, belonging to the Sultan, called Anak Bukit. The house, which was a fine one, was built on a little eminence and surrounded with terraces. To one side of it there was a large pond or tank full of Ikan Kaluai, a kind of carp, the Gouremier of the Mauritius. They came to be fed with bits of orange, and seemed quite tame ; then some fish spears were produced and we (very treacherously) proceeded to open an attack upon them. At my request the Regent took the first shot, and missed. I tried twice; my second throw was a good one, just shaving his head. Mr. Swetten- ham's second went right through the fish's head, and he pulled him in, spear and all, by the string which is fastened to the spear and looped round the wrist. After this the fish either lost confidence in us or went to bed, the sun having set, so we gave it up and drove home. On our way to the carriages we passed through the gardens and admired the trees laden with oranges and limes, and peeping out of a round hole in a dead branch we saw a lovely woodpecker, with a black and white and crimson head. We also found a chameleon on the same tree. Our drive home was through padi fields, and we passed some elephants on the road. The people all squat down in these native states, as a mark of respect, when the Sultan or other ' big man ' passes. The road was an excellent one ; it runs for about sixty or eighty miles to the first town on the Siamese frontier. It is strange to think of being so near that almost unknown country Siam that one could drive a four-in-hand into it. The Regent, who is not a strict Mahommedan, dined with us. We sat for a long time afterwards and talked business. The conversation was a friendly one and will, I think, lead to satisfactory results. I have reason to think that the Regent was pleased with the tone of my remarks, and manner of dealing with him, and that I have done some good by coming here. " August Sth. Drove early this morning to Anak Bukit, where we met Yacub, and got into a charming canoe with small painted cabin and paddled up a tiny stream under trees and arched SCENES IN KEDAH 309 roots a kind of by-lane embedded in delicate ferns, orchids, and palms, in short of vegetation such as one never sees out of the tropics. Fancy paddling up the orchid- or palm-house at Kew, with monkeys gambolling about, apparently quite tame, and gorgeous kingfishers and butterflies darting through the trees like animated jewels ! Here and there we came upon cottages nestling amongst the trees, and passed bridges made of bamboos for the people to cross the stream, or canoes, where sometimes there was only just room for two to pass each other. On one occasion we met a boat full of women; who all turned their faces to the jungle, as was right and proper, in passing us. But (wondering to myself whether Eve was not curious here) I looked suddenly around, and found Eve was looking, and was very much abashed indeed, so I turned away quickly. We saw some lovely little otters playing on the banks. The climb up the hill to the caves was a very steep one, over all kinds of creepers and gnarled and twisted trunks of trees. My long legs and Swetten- ham's gave us a great advantage in climbing, and I think we rather astonished the natives. The caves were magnificent, and being lit by torchlight, which exaggerated the wild effects produced by the swarthy natives in every costume, and want of costume, the scene was very striking ; I have seldom seen a more picturesque one, exceeding anything ever painted by Dore. The caves were not unlike those at Selangor, so haying described those I will say no more. Then back again in boat and carriage to the house. 8 p.m. We have just dined and are going to start down the river and join the Pluto as soon as the Regent is ready. I am going to give him a passage to Penang. Our people are giving a ball there, and a Siamese grandee is to be present whom he is anxious to meet. It must be very galling to the reigning family here to be under subjection to Siam. They have fallen in the world, but unquestionably they are of royal descent, and have reigned over this country for many hundred years ; they claim to be descended from Alexander the Great ! To-morrow morning we touch at Penang, and go on to Province Wellesley ; drive in a southerly direction as far as the 310 CONCLUSION OF TOUR Krian River, and sleep at Parit Buntar, a magistrate's station on the Perak border. The following day (loth) I am going to inspect hospitals and police- stations, and see over a sugar plantation, and sleep on board the Pluto off Butterworth pier. On the nth we go to look at the Malakoff tapioca estate, then to Penang where we have a mess dinner followed by a ball sleep on board that night, and get back to Singapore either that day or the following one. At latest I shall be with you on the i3th. CHAPTER XIV "Life with all it yields of joy and woe, And hope and fear, Is just our chance o' the prize of learning love, How love might be, hath been indeed, and is." BROWNING. THE tour made by Sir Frederick Weld in the pro- vinces under his rule, and recorded in the last chapter, was useful to him from more than one point of view. Its first and most obvious advantage was that it enabled him to study at first hand the characteristics both in the upper and lower strata of society of the people whom he was called upon to govern. Also, by a happy chance he was enabled to do this under most favourable auspices. For in Mr. Low, the Resident of Perak, and Mr. Frank Swettenham he found helpers and advisers who, by their familiar knowledge of the Malay language and their intimate acquaintance with all the complications and intrigues entailed by the mixture of races Chinese, Malay, Kling, and Tamil of which these provinces were composed, were able on many occasions to supply him with the key to difficult situations. In addition to these advantages (of which the wise administrator is always ready to avail himself) Weld brought certain merits to the discharge of his task which were wholly his own. One of these was a manner distinguished by mingled dignity, sauvity and firmness which was peculiarly adapted to impressing the people with whom he had to deal, who, like all the Eastern races, are very susceptible to such influences. The 312 THE GOVERNOR'S PROGRAMME Malay in particular deeply resent an uncourteous and offhand manner, and one of their familiar sa3dngs is : " The Rajah may take my life, but he has no right to speak loudly (i.e. rudely) to me." The elaborate courtesy of past generations does not find much favour in these though it would not be difficult to find advocates even now to defend it but a courteous manner born of a kindly disposition can never be out of date, and will be a mark of good breeding as long as the world lasts. Such Sir Frederick Weld possessed in an eminent degree. He had also the faculty of inspiring affection in those who served under him. It has been said that to be popular you must be loved, and the easiest way of inspiring love is by loving. In these words we have the secret of Weld's influence over the native races. Several subjects of importance claimed the Governor's attention on his return to Singapore. One of these was the adoption of a settled policy with regard to the " protected " and native States, and another the re-settlement of the land-tenure question in the colony. Besides these there were other subjects of minor, but still of considerable importance ; foremost amongst these was the re- modelling of the police force, the encouragement of Indian immigration, and the consideration of measures to be taken for the defence of Singapore. In a dispatch dated 2ist October 1880, Weld asks for instructions from the Secretary of State for the Colonies, and formulates his own opinions on the question of the future treatment of the native States. He writes as follows : " My recent tour in the Malayan Peninsula, whilst viewing the present, led me to consider the future of the native ' Protected States/ and I will now lay before your Lordship some considerations on the subject. A CONSISTENT POLICY 313 " It seems self-evident that interests affecting not only the welfare and position of large popu- lations but of a country which is the key to the Far East should not be left to chance dealing. I may therefore presume that the Home Government has considered or is considering its future policy with regard to the native States of the Peninsula. Nevertheless, no indication of that policy has (as far as I am aware) reached my predecessors even con- fidentially. Yet a Governor would gain immeasur- ably when determining on a course of action, which he frequently has to do suddenly on an emergency, if he knew what was to be the future conduct of the Crown with regard to these States. Consequently it appears to me that your Lordship cannot be kept too exactly informed on the views held by Her Majesty's representative in this colony and the grounds on which he holds them, if only as affording materials for a policy which would enable cases to be dealt with as they arise, and so lead to a con- sistent line of action. " My diffidence in addressing your Lordship so soon after my appointment to the Governorship of the Straits Settlements would have been even greater had I not found that my opinions were in complete agreement with those of Mr. Low, the Resident of Perak, of whose judgment I have formed a high estimate, and who has had exceptional opportunities of getting reliable information on native matters. Moreover, Sir William Robinson, my predecessor, having addressed an able confidential memorandum to the Colonial Office, was informed that he was at liberty to show it to me ; from this it appears prob- able that you might expect at an early period to be put in possession of my views on the same subject. The native protected States are now unquestionably in a satisfactory position, and every year of peace and progress renders it less likely that the status quo should be disturbed ; still, years must elapse before good government can be said to be established on a firm basis. A slight matter, the indiscretion of a Resident or even of a subordinate, might lead to com- plications, and it is impossible with the men and means at our command to be sure that no such 314 ROCKS AHEAD accident may occur. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that advantageous as the present regime is for the people who are rescued from oppression, good government, though it means security for the op- pressed, is a restriction, not a relief, to the oppressor. Consequently, though gratified, I was not surprised to see the loyalty of the people to our rule, when making my tour in the native State, but I was pleased and astonished to find Rajahs, such as the Rajah Idris 1 of Perak, not only working with us, but taking a real interest in the work, apart from mere motives of self-interest. Yet it must be remembered that when the memory of past oppression has somewhat died out amongst the people, it is not unlikely that the native princes, who will still doubtless cherish the recollection of past power and dignity, and resent the forced obedience to foreign rulers, may make an effort to regain what they have lost, and that a quarrel between native chiefs, or a Chinese faction fight, might serve as a spark to light a widespread fire. " The present theory of the native States govern- ment is that we advise, and do not assume the possi- bility of our advice not being taken ; but no hard and fast rule can be given for such advice. The Administrator, just before my arrival, acting on in- structions from England, declined to allow the Resident of Sunjei Ujong to give any advice in regard to the election of the Datph Klana. In that case there were reasons for leaving the election free, but some guarded indications of the views of the Govern- ment might often be given with advantage, and cases might arise in which decided action would be abso- lutely necessary. On this occasion the question arose : If the Resident will not advise on the election of the ruler, on what ground does he advise on the levy of the taxes, or prevent us the chiefs of Sunjei Ujong from exacting imposts from the people ? The only answer is, that in one case it was not thought advisable at headquarters to do so, and in the other it was. " Our advice, as a matter of fact, in criminal cases, and financial questions, in the prevention of oppression of debtors and slaves, is often taken 1 Now H.H. Sultan Idris of Perak, G.C.M.G. THREE ALTERNATIVES 315 merely because it is supposed that what weTadvise will have to be done ; and it is recognised that"we are powerful enough to enforce our decisions. " Again, a very large and increasing ^Chinese population, containing a large proportion of the lowest classes, is an element of considerable danger in the country, and will require firm and careful handling. Looking hopefully, as I do, on the ex- cellent work which is being accomplished in the Peninsula, and never doubting its success, still it is impossible to ignore the fact that we are, and have been, relying on something more than mere advice, and unless we are prepared to evacuate, the country must continue working on the same lines in the future. Three courses are open to us : " i . To prepare gradually for retiring from the native States. "2. To annex them. '3. Gradually to increase our influence, as occasions arise, over the States south of Siam, though not necessarily with a view of any immediate ex- tension of the Residential system. And with regard to the protected States, to show no signs of relaxing our hold upon them, and to continue working through the native rulers by advice discreetly given but firmly administered. ' With regard to the first course : I concur with Sir William Robinson in thinking that did we abandon them now their plight would probably be worse than it was when we first interfered. I do not think anything would justify us in leaving them to anarchy, and pur own interests as well as theirs forbid it. Nothing that we have done so far has taught them to govern themselves, we are merely teaching them to co-operate with us and govern under our guidance. To teach men to govern themselves you must throw them on their own resources. We are necessarily doing the very reverse. Moreover, I doubt if Asiatics can ever be taught to govern themselves ; it is contrary to the genius of their race, to what we know of their past history, and to tendencies created by their religious systems. What suits them is a mild and equitable despotism ; that we can give them, but in the present circumstances, 316 ANNEXATION having regard to all the discordant elements existing in the Malay Peninsula, they would be unable to give themselves. Johore might be quoted against this view, but the position of that State is quite exceptional. Nine-tenths of the population of Johore are Chinese or European. Capital has been invested in the State because of its close proximity to Singa- pore, and also because the Maharajah is always advised by the Governor, and by his own European agents and lawyers. He himself has spent all his life amongst Europeans, has been on intimate terms with successive Governors, and been much influenced by them. But even in this case no one can count on what line might be taken by his successor. Good rulers may arise in all countries, but, judging from the past, good native government seems not to be a plant congenial to the soil, and every year native rulers are confronted with greater difficulties owing to the growth of a foreign, and especially a huge Chinese population. Moreover, it must be borne in mind that not only has European capital been encouraged to flow into the native States owing to the order we have established there but a large field has been opened to European and Chinese settlements for agricultural and other purposes ; this capital is being invested in the confidence that we shall not retire from the ' protected ' States. Both Malays and other races accept our rule in these States, and the majority, I doubt not, do so grate- fully ; and further, the British government is both by chiefs and people looked upon as the supreme arbiter in disputes in the purely native States, and thus accepted as guardian of the peace in the Peninsula. " If this be conceded, the next point to be con- sidered is the advisability of annexation : not, of course, a sudden one, but proximate, should circum- stances lead up to it ; also the framing of our policy so as to lead to that end. " Setting aside any unforeseen and exceptional case, I am not prepared to advocate such policy. I think to continue as we are doing now is more to our advantage and that of the people we govern. Complications may arise, but I fail to see why they BENDAHARA OF PAHANG 317 may not be as effectually dealt with under the present system as any other ; whilst the development of the resources of the States, and the influx of European capital, is not likely to be arrested as long as it is known that we have no intention of receding from our present position. Countries in the position of the Malay States require a somewhat elastic form of government ; justice and firmness should be tempered by tact and discretion, and great care be given to the selection of Residents and even of sub- ordinate agents. The native States are not, in my opinion, ready for a system which approaches more nearly the purely British one which prevails in our Colonies. The Residential one is more fitted for them, and should their rulers learn wisdom in time they have the opportunity of imitating the example of their Residents and working out their own good. It is more likely, however, that the contrast between their rulers and our representatives will lead to the spread of a desire among the people which has already shown itself at Sri Menanti to throw them- selves on us for protection. " It may not be irrelevant to add that the Bendahara of Pahang a State which is situated on the east coast and marches with Selangor and Perak has just intimated to me his desire to visit me at Singapore should it be my pleasure to receive him. I had a short time ago expressed to envoys sent to me by him my desire to maintain friendly relations with him, and I accordingly welcome this overture on his part. Though invited several times to Singapore by my predecessors, the Bendahara has never yet visited Government House since he obtained supreme power in Pahang. I heard (con- fidentially) during my recent tour in the native States that the Bendahara had a great wish to come to Singapore to seek my advice, and looking to the important position of Pahang with regard to the Western States, 1 improved relations between him and the British Government would lead to good results on both sides. I am inclined to think that he has been led to take this step by comparing the 1 Pahang is situated on the east coast and marches with Johol, the Negri Zembilan, Selangor, and Perak. 23 3i8 AN ENTENTE CORDIALE increased prosperity of the neighbouring States with the stagnation which in spite of great natural resources he cannot fail to perceive in his own. Owing to its geographical position an alliance with the ruler of Pahang would do much to consolidate our position and influence in the Malay Peninsula." The entries in Sir Frederick Weld's journal show that this projected visit was carried out within a fortnight of its announcement. He mentions it as follows : " October 2Oth. The Bendahara of Pahang arrived this morning. I sent a message to him to say that the Maharajah was expecting him at Johore, also that I should be pleased to receive him here leaving him free to make his choice. He settled to go first to Johore, as had been previously arranged. He came in the Maharajah's steam-yacht, accompanied by about three hundred followers in small crafts. " October 26th. Maharajah of Johore called to-day. I had a long and satisfactory conversation with him. One of his remarks struck me. He said : ' If I saw a thing as clearly as the sun in the heavens, and you saw differently, I would yield (my opinion) to you. You are my Father, and I wish always to take advice from you.' Very oriental, but I think he meant it. " October 2jth. Much preparation made for the Bendahara 's visit. Sent four-in-hand to Reservoir to meet him. He arrived with the Maharajah and a large retinue. His kris-bearer and another official followed him everywhere ; he also had a large train of attendants. He is a slight, elderly man with a pleasant expression of countenance and smile ; very shabbily dressed for a man of his power and riches, but I am told that is not unusual amongst the great Malay chiefs. We had an official dinner, followed by an ' at home ' and music, at which Carlotta Patti sang." The Bendahara, after spending a day or two at Government House, followed up these friendly pro- ceedings by electing to take up his residence in the RAJAH MAHDI AGAIN 319 city of Singapore. While the house was being pre- pared for his reception, he returned to Johore. A week later we read in Sir Frederick's journal : " November ist. Bendahara of Pahang landed in state from the Pluto, which I had sent to Johore to convey him here. He received a salute of fifteen guns ; and as it was a wet evening I sent a carriage to meet him. On his arrival at Government House he was met at the entrance by a guard of honour in red coats, with a band playing, and by me in full uniform on the staircase. He was dressed in black velvet coat and cap, with a sarong, and splendid diamond rings. He brought his little boy (aged about five years I should say) who behaved ad- mirably, salaaming and squatting down in front of us as we sat on a sofa in the big saloon. The Maha- rajah's brother was also there. After exchanging compliments, I took him back to the entrance hall, and he proceeded, in my carriage, to the house which has been prepared for him and his very numerous followers." Three days later the following entry occurs in Weld's journal : " November 4th. Drove the Bendahara in four- in-hand to the Reservoir. He told me he should like to visit Singapore every two or three years. Also that he thought he could, by acting on my advice, do much to improve the state of his country^ to which I replied that though I obtruded my advice on no one I was glad to give it when asked." The Rajah Mahdi, of whom we last heard as being in a moribund condition, and taken to his native land to die, apparently on reaching it made a rapid recovery and returned to his previous tricks as we find mentioned in the diary. " November $th. Rajah Mahdi was to have come here to-day, but did not do so, as he had been told that I had heard of his intrigues in Selangor. He 320 JOHORE has behaved very badly, and will have to be kept in Singapore in future. " November 6th. Rajah Mahdi came this morning. He denied that he had been agitating at Klang, or elsewhere ; though his version of the story was plausible, there is strong evidence against him. I do not believe, however, that it was more than an attempt to lead me to recognise him as Rajah of Klang, by proving the support he would receive from the people there. But this in itself would create trouble and might lead to much more. I cannot let him return to Klang, as it would be at the risk of unsettling everything. " November 12th. The Bendahara called, and asked to see all the children. He made Mena and them presents ; to Mena he gave a necklace and bangles, and to the rest (including Gordon * and de Lisle 2 ) packets of gold dust. Of course the presents go to the Treasury, but I shall buy back the necklace as a souvenir. The gold was afterwards valued at 120." Though Sir Frederick Weld had more than once visited the Maharajah of Johore (Johore being only separated by narrow straits from the island of Singapore) the latter had excused himself from asking Lady Weld till the palace which was in course of erection on the Welds' arrival at Singapore was ready for the reception of guests. We find an account in the diary of their first official visit, which may be of interest to those who are curious in country-house visiting, and would like to know how these things are managed in the East. " November i$th. We started this morning in two parties for our visit to Johore ; Mena and Edwin de Lisle and all the children left in the Maha- rajah's steam-yacht Panti at 8.30. We started an hour later and got on board H.M.S. Cura$oa at 9.30. They went round by the West passage and arrived 1 A.D.C. z Private Secretary ; afterwards M.P. for Loughborough. ISTANA 321 some time before we did. The Curacoa on arriving saluted the Malay flag. I landed at 4.30 with the Datoh Bandar and the Maharajah's brother, who came off to meet me. Captains Grey and McCallum, 1 extra A.D.C.'s, and Lieut. Cosmo Gordon and a number of officers accompanied me, all in full uniform. An address in Malay was presented to me on landing, the quays being decorated with flags and a triumphal arch. A flag-pole fell on my head as I was replying, but did no harm as my cocked hat broke the fall. Drove through the town to the foot of the hill where the Maharajah and Bendahara met me, and led me up some steps till we reached the entrance of the palace, where I received more addresses from Planters and the Chinese colony. The palace is a large and fine one ; we have a whole wing to ourselves. A number of guests here, including the Sidgreaves, Shelf ords, etc. We sat down forty-five at dinner. " November i6th. Ladies went out driving. We had a shooting expedition, and de Lisle bagged a deer ; it was not found till following day, no one else got a shot. We went in the afternoon to look at the Maharajah's tea and coffee plantation, which appears very promising. A large dinner-party. " November ijth. Boys went out fishing. Most of the party went to Mr. Watson's bungalow for tea. Full dress official dinner about seventy people. Maharajah made a speech to which I responded. It was followed by theatricals, the trial scene in The Merchant of Venice and a farce called The Rough Diamond. 11 November iSth. I was up early and crossed over to Singapore with Mr. C. Clementi Smith and Captain McCallum. Meeting of the Legislative Council ; passed the Estimates, and then returned to Johore reaching the palace at 6 p.m. Dinner at 7.30, at which sixty people were present ; it was followed by a concert and a ball. " November igth. Very tired, but had to get up to see naval brigade paraded ashore, and making sham attack on Istana. Rinking the rest of the morning. The children went out fishing. In the afternoon we went up the river with the Maharajah 1 Afterwards Sir Henry McCallum, G.C.M.G., Governor of Ceylon. 322 A LAND ACT WANTED in a steam-launch. Dinner party as usual, suc- ceeded by conjuring tricks. The evening concluded with a ball which lasted till a very late hour. 11 November 2oth. Mena and the children left this morning in the Pluto amidst much cheering and waving of handkerchiefs. The Maharajah went to see them off and on board. I stayed till after dinner, for the regatta, and left at about 11 p.m. by torchlight the bearers (wearing yellow and red) lit up the grounds, and there were Chinese fireworks ; a very fine scenic effect. We got home at 1.30 after a very enjoyable but fatiguing week." I This somewhat exhausting holiday over, Weld set himself to work to tackle a job which had con- fronted all his predecessors in turn, but which so far had never been successfully dealt with. This was to reduce to order the chaos which prevailed in the land courts owing to the diversity of land tenure in the Straits Settlements. Writing privately to the Under Secretary of State for the Colonies, Sir Fred- erick says : " Everybody told me on my arrival here, If you can only put the land affairs in order you will be the greatest benefactor the colony has ever had." To this difficult and intricate task Weld brought a great power of work, and the very useful qualifica- tions of a considerable knowledge of the working of Land Acts in three different colonies. A few points gathered from a " Paper to be laid before the Legislative Council " by the Governor may be of interest to the general reader, though it does not pretend to be exhaustive : ' The question divides itself into two branches the administrative and the legislative. I will take the former first, because bad administration, or rather the want of it, is at the source of a state of affairs which I think is without a parallel in our Colonies. We have, as I shall hereafter show, fairly workable laws based on defined principles, A REIGN OF CONFUSION 323 but what we have wanted is a Land Department strong enough to work them. ... I will commence by taking Penang and Province Wellesley. The arrears due in those settlements for rent amounted to over one hundred and thirty-eight million dollars. Many lands held by leases or permits have been sold in fee-simple by Government, others have been abandoned, and are now undistinguishable from the surrounding jungle, others again have been sur- rendered. No account has been kept of such trans- actions, so that it is impossible to ascertain from any record what proportion of that sum is recoverable, or indeed due, and not a mere debt on paper. Over sixty-eight millions of dollars are due on permits alone for unsuryeyed land, and I am told by Mr. Penney that it is impossible to identify most of the lots. ... In Malacca the energy of Major Squirl has mended matters, as he was a man physically able, and willing, to use personal exertion in visiting allotments and settling claims on the spot ; still, much remains to be done. There are in Malacca about 10,000 acres of revenue survey still awaiting completion ; 14,227 allotments already surveyed, containing nearly 37,500 acres of which no leases have been issued owing to the want of draughtsmen to plot the surveys. Books have long been allowed to fall into confusion owing to the staff being so much below strength, and great loss to revenue, besides much confusion, have resulted. On Singapore island, owing to the presence of the head of the Department, matters have been somewhat better, but here also the staff has been unable to keep pace with the work ; lands lie waste and abandoned, and public interests have suffered. . . . The effects of the starvation of the Department are summed up in the words of Mr. Swettenham thus : ' No one who has not been some time at work in one of the three land offices can have any conception of the terrible confusion into which matters have got ; I believe it is so bad that no legislation can put matters to rights except by making an entirely new start.' He then instances the unreliability of the rent-rolls, of the want of landmarks, of discrepancies between the areas occupied and those named in leases, of sub- 324 TENANT-RIGHT divisions unknown to the land offices, of confusion of titles, and great losses consequently to the Govern- ment. In Penang the land question was at first almost entirely neglected, and devoid of system. In Malacca it appears to have been dealt with in a less arbitrary way, owing to its being a populous country with land customs and prescriptive rights under ancient royal families. The Malay customs, which appear to have been recognised as the basis of our own procedure, admitted the right of the cultivator to occupy the soil permanently as long as he paid Government a tenth of its produce and continued to cultivate it. Tenant-right, in fact, exists there in its fullest form. " After the Portuguese and Dutch conquests much land was allowed to lie waste, owing to the decrease of the population, which led to certain seignoral rights being given to individuals by the Dutch Government. These, when the country first fell into our hands, were looked upon by the East Indian Government as being of greater value than they really were, and have since been compromised for annuities. " The first attempt to deal effectively with the land question was in 1839, when Mr. Young was sent as special commissioner from India to study and report upon it. An Act was then passed which would have given the country all that it required, if men and money had been given to work it, though it does not perhaps carry the system of registration far enough. In 1861 an Indian Act vested the Malacca lands in the Crown in fee-simple, saving the rights of cultivators or occupants * as long as they pay one-tenth of its produce in rent.' Provisions were also made for commutation of title, for issue of per- petual leases, for survey, and examination of titles and other necessary matters. The Land Office was too weak to carry out the Act, so nothing was done. In 1876 an Act was passed against unauthorised squatting, and to carry put the objects of the Act of 1 86 1 and facilitate its working. This Act re- mained inoperative from the same cause. ... I now come to remedial measures. The first and most obvious is to increase the surveying staff and to MALAY CUSTOMS 325 push forward surveys. The immediate completion of the revenue service is essential, and would be self- paying at once ; but before a revenue survey can be made the areas must be fixed. In India the Collectors of Revenue are high officials who decide matters on the spot which is the only way they can be decided. Also, they must be done by officials whose position places them above suspicion, and whose physical powers enable them to travel and to walk in jungles, and in the mud and water of the padi fields ; but it is not always that such men (to whom these offices are given as rewards for long services) are capable of such exertions in a tropical climate, or if they are remain so long. Thus we are met with a great practical difficulty, as, owing to the puacity of European officers not on leave, many Departments are being extra worked at an expenditure of energy which must in the course of nature lead to further applications for leave. . . . A good knowledge of Malay is of great importance in a Land Commissioner, as interpreters might easily be bribed into giving a colour to one side or other ; it is even more important that he should be a man of high character, possessed of good sense, a judicial mind, and physical endurance in jungle-work. ' I now come to the second part of my subject : the changes in laws and regulations that are required. ' ' There can be little doubt , if we take Malay customs , the acceptance of those customs by our Government in a long series of years, Eastern modes of thought, and the peculiarities of the country into considera- tion, that we must assume as a starting-point that the Crown remains in ordinary cases at least the land- lord, whilst the tenants as long as they pay rent and cultivate the ground are to have fixity of tenure. " The question then arises, what length of lease should be given ? on what terms should renewals be granted ? Should leaseholds be put up to auction, or sold by fixed premium ? And are periodical assessments advisable ? Ultimately the question resolves itself into this : Is it the Government's object to make the most it can out of its land, or to get the land settled and worked in the best possible way, avoiding many difficulties, and trusting to find 326 LAND SALES a sufficient if not a larger revenue accruing from the progress of the country, and fixed and moderate land payments ? " I incline to the latter course, and think that the more legitimate function of a government is fulfilled by it. The Government is not a dealer seeking to make a fortune by getting the highest prices for his wares ; it seeks to raise sufficient revenue for certain requirements only, and to raise that revenue in the manner least vexatious to the people, and least likely to raise friction between itself and the races it governs . " I consequently propose to grant leases of 999 years under strict conditions as to payment of quit-rent and beneficial occupation of the land, non-fulfilment of these conditions to entail forfeiture. A scale of premiums to be fixed for ten years for town, village, and country lands by districts. Town lands to be put up to auction, the fixed premium being the upset price. The scale of premiums may from time to time be revised by a board to be appointed by the Governor, and a new rate may be fixed by him in Executive Council. This revision of the scale will only affect land yet unsold, or falling into hand, and will be a reasonable advantage to give to the revenue if the progress of the colony warrants it. Very different would be the effect of periodical assessment of land as advocated by the Attorney-General in an able report which I append, and with which I concur on all points excepting this one. I think a sense of security is much weakened where there is a prospect of reassessment. Not only would a man abstain from permanent improvements, but many would take successive crops of an exhausting character out of the soil when awaiting the assessor ; also a number of assessors must be paid by Government who would certainly be offered bribes by the lease-holders, of which much corruption would result and small gain to the land revenue. " My reasons for preferring a fixed price to auction in disposing of country lands are as follows : Auction gives an undue advantage to the capitalist and speculator or the peasant cultivator, and Govern- ment in many cases does not get the real value because the poorer man will not bid against a known THE TORRENS ACT 327 capitalist. Moreover, a man is deterred from ap- plying for Goyernment land because of the fear of delays and being outbidden, and so gives a higher price to a speculator with whom he at least runs no risk. Another objection is that when there are few competitors private bargains are made to the detri- ment of the Government. The land being sold, registration should follow and be the title. A complete system of compulsory registration on the Torrens principle seems to me the most obvious remedy of all our difficulties. As titles are presented for registration, back rents and dues would be re- covered, simplification, easy transfers and mortgage would be an equal boon to the tenant and to Govern- ment, which, once their system was established, would work on oiled wheels. " To establish this principle it would be necessary to have a Land Titles Registration Commissioners, who should have a complete knowledge of the working of the Torrens Act. . . . Little difficulty will be found in fixing the premium for town or village lands yet in the hands of Government, but a very serious question has arisen in respect to be taken regarding town lands which have been leased, and some of which are now of great value, and will ere long fall into the hands of Government. In regard to this question, I consider that while Government is entitled to a substantial premium and increase of quit-rent on giving a 999 years' lease, it should deal liberally with men who are representatives of those who have made the colony, or who may themselves have helped to make it. I propose subject to modifications that a Commission be appointed to divide the towns into districts, to take the municipal roll as their basis, and to assess the letable value of the holdings upon them." After discussing some other points in connection with the assessment, Sir Frederick Weld draws attention to Major McNair's report in which the Surveyor-General anticipates with the assistance of staff (surveyor and draughtsmen), which the Government of Ceylon had put at their disposal, that he will be able to bring up 328 A COMPARISON WITH INDIA arrears of surveys, and place the revenue surveys of this colony on a satisfactory footing at a cost (as set forth in his Memo.) of $23,264 for the first year, $21,764 for the second year, and $10,932 for the third. The Governor concludes with some suggestions with regard to the staff which would be required to carry out the proposed changes in the working of the Land Departments. Lord Kimberley, acknowledging the dispatch on on the 2Oth of January 1882, remarks that the argu- ments for and against a permanent settlement of the lands held for the State " are set forth in it with great ability." He enters into a detailed commentary upon all the points set down in the document, and dwells especially on the question of reassessment, comparing the Governor's views and recommendations with the practice in India, in the following words : " Rents are reassessed in the greater part of British India at intervals of thirty years. This appears to me a sufficient term, coinciding as it very nearly does with a generation, but I shall not object to its extension within narrow limits if, in your opinion, the particular circumstances of the Straits Settlements make a somewhat longer term desirable. In fixing the new assessment no account should be taken of the improvements affected by the occupier : the increase, if any, must be made dependent upon the rise in the value of land, which is due to the making of roads and consequent ac- cessibility of markets and to the general development of an industrial community or to other causes." He concludes as follows : "In thus explaining to you the views I entertain on the subject of the Govern- ment lands in the Straits Settlements, I would add it is in my opinion of paramount importance that the regulations that may be laid down should be, as far as possible, in harmony with the practice, habits, and ideas of the inhabitants, and I desire that you will report to me at your early convenience any facts that have a bearing on this aspect of the subject." FALSE ECONOMY 329 A glance over the Governor's correspondence at this time shows that his remarks on the short-sighted- ness of over-working officials were not misplaced. He writes as follows to Mr. Meade 1 : "X. has applied for leave. I am told his head is affected. Mr. Edward Irving must go instantly he is in a dangerous state of health. I shall give him short leave before his resignation, and Mr. Knight, his second in command, can keep things going in the Audit Office till the reply comes to my present dis- patch. . . . The extension of leave to Mr. Kinnersley is unfortunate, as Mr. Isemonger's case is urgent ; we really are killing off our men too fast." A letter to Mr. Hugh Low, written a month later (27th April), shows that the health of that hard-working (and hard-worked) official was suffering from the usual cause : " I must write to beg, entreat, or use whatever pressure is required to prevent your going to Kinta before you have perfectly recovered. The royal family have quarrelled for years, they may be re- quested to proclaim a truce till you are well again. If they decline they will only remain in their normal state for a little longer, and I will take all the blame but I will not take the blame of letting you injure your health." One of the difficulties under which the pioneer settlers in the Malay States struggled was scarcity of labour. The Malays may be said to be the aristo- crats of our Eastern colonies . They have a civilisation of their own ; 2 their manners would have been no disgrace to them in any circle, however distinguished, 1 Under-Secretary of State for the Colonies. 2 The Malays have undoubted claims to be numbered among civilised races. They live in houses showing a considerable amount of taste. They are a settled and agricultural people ; they are skilful in some of the arts, especially in gold- and metal -working. The upper classes are educated, and their laws and systems of government show a knowledge of the principles of equity such as prevail in civilised communities. 330 INDIAN IMMIGRATION and their dislike of manual labour was probably as great as that of any member of such circles. The rich soil yielded its fruit to them with hardly an effort, and their requirements were few ; it need not cause surprise, therefore, that, living in a very enervating climate, they enjoyed their idle life and refused to be moved from it. The " hewers of wood and drawers of water " of the Peninsula were almost exclusively Chinese. Finding the Malay States a profitable field for their energies the Chinese had practically captured its trade and labour market, especially in the mining districts. The Chinese population x at the time of Weld's appointment outnumbered the Malayan at the rate of four to one, and the stream of immigration was still setting steadily towards the States ; but in spite of this influx, labour in the country districts was scarce and dear. To supplement the coolie element, which for this and other reasons was deemed advisable, the Governor turned his attention to the teeming popula- tion of the provinces of Bengal, and tried to attract them to the Malay States. In a private letter to Lord Kimberley (28th April) he writes : " Pray allow me to beg of you to consider very care- fully my dispatch of this mail upon Indian immigration to native States. I can assure your Lordship that with the large powers the Executive has in the native States it will be more easy for me to guarantee that the coolies from India will be well treated there than it could be even in our own settlements. The question is of very great importance, no less than opening out a most magnificent field of industry and commerce, securing a future revenue to the States, and a comfortable home to thousands of poor people in a country which exactly suits their tastes 1 In the returns of the census for the island of Singapore in 1881 the population is given as 139,208, the Chinese numbered 86,766 and the Malay 22,114, the remainder being made up of European and other nationalities. EXPEDITION UP COUNTRY 331 and requirements a people, too, who are exposed to misery and starvation in the homes they are seeking to leave." Early in this same spring Weld joined Mr. Low at Perak and made a shooting expedition with him to the confines of the Siamese territory. His journal contains the following account of it : " February 4th. (Residency). Started up the river in a fleet of boats Low and I in the Dragon, Regent Jusup in another boat. Elephants and guards of honour went by jungle track. Stopped at mid- day to sketch the tomb of the ancestor of the Perak royal family, who is said to have sprung from the foam of the mouth of a cow. Arrived that night at Chigar Gala ; Rajah Muda went to track a wild rogue elephant. The head-man Seyed showed me his pedi- gree, with his descent (35th) from Mahomet. " $th. ^ Tracked elephant without success. Edwin de Lisle killed some beautiful pigeons on an island at the mouth of the Plus. f< 6th. Started early and paddled up the Perak River till we came to the junction with the Plus. The river is about a hundred yards wide here, though at a distance of 140 miles from the sea. We continued our journey up the Plus River, the way lying through rich jungle with some cultivated land here and there. We passed some not|very formidable rapids, the crew working well and cheerfully. Reached Lasak at sunset. ' jth. Low and I went about eleven miles up Plus River, passing the junction of the Korbu. We were now in the Sakei country. Great number of tracks of wild animals visible on the banks. The jungle is very beautiful here with coloured foliage plants, and much rich land. Returned to Lasak, and went about three miles up the river bank on elephants to some sulphur springs called Sira Char, and watched all night in a hut built in a tree over a pool for Rajah Muda, but no big game came. " 8th. We saw a lot of fish rising in the pool at sunrise, probably carp or roach. When we got back to Lasak we saw the tracks of a wild elephant which 332 THE JUNGLES OF PERAK had crossed in the night. Low and I went afterwards to the salt-licks and waited in a boat all night at a ford where big game were supposed to cross. I slept in the dark hours just before sunrise, and got a chill which brought on an attack of gout. We saw nothing. " gth. Gout in left foot from sleeping barefoot in heavy dew. Saw a number of Sakei at Kuala Kerbau who were on their way to see me. Got one to make some throws with his casting net, but he caught nothing. We were told that a tiger and rhinoceros had been walking about at night tracks of the latter were visible on a small island in the river, but neither were to be found. Low and I went on elephants to Bangdang, the Siam salt-springs. Gordon and de Lisle had got there the night before. The noises of wild animals and birds at night are most curious and interesting. At sunrise the monkeys made sounds like a pack of hounds in full cry. " loth. Before starting down the river I dis- tributed presents amongst about sixty Sakeis who had come to see me. They are the aboriginal tribe of the Peninsula, and live in the mountains. They do not resemble the Malays at all ; the latter are supposed to have come from Sumatra and to have conquered the country in the eleventh or twelfth century. The Sakeis are small about 4 feet 4 or 6 inches high, and active, and have light-coloured complexions, with low foreheads, and curly hair, and pleasant expressions. They seem cheerful and good-tempered. They said since we came the Malays no longer steal their children and carry their wives off to captivity. Managed to get back to the Re- sidency, though with considerable difficulty, owing to gout and a great thunder-storm. " 1 1 th. Started late in the afternoon for Matang. Met young Wrey at the top of the pass, who asked about Indian immigration. I told him I had been doing my utmost to encourage it, and would con- tinue to do so. Mr. Low and the others walked over pass. Changed horse on the other side ; a jolt threw Low right out of the ghari, and the pony started off at a gallop the reins hanging on the ground. I leant over the pony and got one rein SUNGEI UJONG 333 with one hand, then fished the other up with a stick, and managed to pull up the pony. No one hurt, luckily. We were given a fresh pony at the next change, which first refused to start, and then bolted off at full gallop. Reached Malang all right after dark supported into the s.s. Kinta, and dined on board, Major Swinburne and Mr.Wynn (collector) joining us. " 1 2th. Steamed along the Trong inlet, passed Chinese settlement amidst endless mangroves. Some lovely views of distant mountains. This network of creeks and mangrove swamps was once a nest of pirates and bad characters ; it is now as safe as any part of the country. Passed Pasir I tarn. Took bearings over the westernmost point of Bruas River, which bounds our territory, to find inland boundary, which from information received to-day from the Penghulu of Pangkor I believe to be established beyond dispute. Steamed to Pulau Pangkor, where we were met by Mr. Douglas and the Penghulu and anchored for the night." Sir Frederick's attack of gout having become considerably worse, he was forced to give up the rest of his expedition and return to Singapore, where he was laid up for over a month. Six weeks after his return from Perak he started for Sungei Ujong, where his presence was required to settle disputes between the native chiefs of that district. The day after his arrival at Malacca he writes : " March 2jth. Steamed up Linggi River to Permatang Passir. Lunched at Mr. Lister's l planta- tion and went on to Residency (Captain Murray). The Datoh Klana and Datoh Bandor came to see me in the afternoon, and later on the Capitan China. " 2%th. Started at 9.30 for Bukit Putus Pass to meet the chiefs. Captain Murray drove me a mile or two ; I was then carried in a chair by Chinamen past the scene of the repulse of the loth Regiment. At the foot of the Pass I got on to one of Murray's horses and rode about three miles. A police station 1 Mr. Lister did not join the Public Service till 1884. 24 334 WARIS' RIGHTS on the summit of the Pass, and stockade which was stormed by Captain Channer who won the V.C. at this action. I was received here by the Yam Tuan, 1 Ungku Bongsu, the Datoh Moui, and other chiefs, and about six hundred people, all armed wdth the kris, and a guard of honour numbering one hundred and twenty men. I had a long, and I think satis- factory, talk with the chiefs. I spoke my mind very plainly to the Yam Tuan told him that the advice of the British Government was that he should govern his people in accordance with the old Malay customs as long as those customs were good and just. I advised him to reinstate Ungku Bongsu, and went into the question of the quarrel between the chiefs, and (as far as I could see) convinced him I was speaking for his good. I then caused two buffaloes to be distributed among the crowd of followers. Old Ungku Bongsu came to me afterwards and actually wept over his treatment by the Yam Tuan, and expressed his gratitude and affection for Captain Douglas and me. 11 April ist. I had a long talk with some Waris 2 and others about ' Waris' rights/ with regard to taking grants of land and taxes, and reminded them that formerly any Rajah could do what he liked with the people. What would their rights have been worth) under the rule of Mahmoud or Mahdi ? Now that the British Government protected them, and saw that justice was done to high and low, they should be willing to pay something towards its maintenance. Still I did not insist on their taking grants of land, but told them if they did not choose to do so they must not expect the same security as others enjoyed who had taken them. ".2nd. Startedfearly from Residency, and spent an hour with Lister at his plantation. After leaving him visited large tapioca farm belonging to Sie Bong Tiong. Out of 5000 acres he has got about 2500 in cultivation ; he is said to have spent 15,000 on it and to have got the principal back in five or six years. There is a manufactory here on a large 1 Paramount Chief. 2 Literally " heirs " ; the title given in the Negri Sembilan to the representatives of certain leading clans. ROYAL VISITORS 335 scale ; alter lunch they paraded about four hundred coolies, who as I left formed in a double line and 1 presented ' chunkals (hoes). I stopped again at another plantation, belonging to Tang Tek Cham, of 2000 acres. Got back that night to steam-launch at Permatang Passir. " ?>rd. Rajah Baud of Sungei Ujong came off. News had reached me that the officials who farm the revenue had been guilty of a good deal of ' squeez- ing ' of late ; this I have put a stop to. Things have been going wrong for some time in the newly ' pro- tected ' territory, and I think my visit here will be of considerable benefit to the poor people. Later on in the day the Datph Bandar of Sungei Ujong and the Datoh Muda of Linggi with one or two other chiefs came on board, followed by the Datoh Perba of Rembau, and some boat-loads of retinue. We had a long conference, and after thoroughly sifting the case I decided the boundary question between the two States. The case seemed clear enough, and I was satisfied myself with the decision, and both parties accepted it without observation.'* The following day Sir Frederick returned to Singapore. A few days later (igth April) we find an entry in his diary to the effect that he " heard with deepest regret the news by telegram of Lord Beaconsfield's death, the greatest statesman of our day/' The Straits Settlements during this summer seem to have been the meeting-place of many royalties and semi-royalties, all of whom were received with much hospitality by the Governor and Lady Weld at Government House. The first to arrive was H.R.H. the Duke of Genoa, brother to the Queen of Italy, who called, spent some hours there, visited the " lions" of the town and continued his voyage the following day. On the 9th of May, King David Kalakana of the Sandwich Islands arrived from Bangkok and spent two or three days at Singapore. A dinner and 336 MORE EXPEDITIONS reception was given in his honour, after which he departed on a visit to the Maharajah of Johore. A visit also is mentioned from the Regent of Siam the Siamese royal family being on terms of much friendliness with the representative of Great Britain at this time. In June the Welds moved in force to the Hill Bungalow in Penang, and remained there three months. These months were for all the family the holiday of the year, and consequently deeply en- joyed by them. Though Sir Frederick's letters and official work followed him there, he still found time for much congenial occupation ; chief amongst these was sketching. Gardening also was the source of the greatest enjoyment to him, and reading. Here he found time to interest himself in his daughters' education ; the two eldest had inherited his taste for drawing, and accordingly we find frequent mention in his journal of sketching expeditions, and of the lessons he was giving them in that gentle art. On 29th October, Sir Frederick started on a journey up country, east of Malacca. He writes about it as follows : " October 24th. Malacca. Set off at 7 a.m. with McCallum in gharies to see some boundaries in dispute inland. Arrived at Pular Sebang, and interviewed the Penghulu. Great loss of cattle by disease in this district. No ploughing-bullocks available for padi land, and much lying uncultivated in consequence. " 2$th. Rode on by Dusun Kasar to Kuala Sungor. A nice old Penghulu met me with spear- man, carrying his ' spear of office.' He wishes to retire but could not suggest a successor. No loss of buffaloes in this secluded spot, where they have hardly any communication with the outer world. This (Ulu *) is a beautiful country, fine, grassy glades, and sago palms ; it is hilly, but with some 1 Interior. ASCENT OF MOUNT OPHIR 337 cultivated (padi) fields. Rode on to police station at Nyalas ; arrived there very hot and tired, stopped to eat, then continued our journey to Chabau at the foot of Mount Ophir. Here we found Mr. Skinner and Dudley Harvey, 1 with huts and food prepared for our arrival. " 26th. Some delay in starting owing to trouble with coolies as to distribution of loads. Got off at 8 a.m. on foot, first crossing padi fields, then a path through a wood, then cultivation and a few houses, where we met one of our surveyors. We stopped at a cottage about five or six miles from Chabau, where we had water poured on our heads and backs the heat of the sun now being intense, the hills which we were nearing shutting out all the air. Saw ruined cottages, and orchards which had been abandoned and destroyed by the Maharajah's people during the Muar disturbances. We now got to a river, with fine timber on its banks, at the foot of Mount Ophir. We bathed and rested, and at about 2.30 started up the mountain, reaching a hut which had been prepared for us at Batu Padang (two-thirds of the way up) at sunset, drenched to the skin. " 27th. We made an early start. McCallum and I reached Gunong Tundok, a lower but twin peak to the west of Sidang (Ophir), in about forty minutes (height 3550 feet). We had a good view of Ophir from here ; then came a dip of 150 feet, and an ascent of 650, very steep, but not difficult, as there were plenty of tough bushes to pull oneself up by, and reached the summit, which we made out by one aneroid to be 4050 feet, and by another 3960 feet above the sea. About a hundred feet from the top of the mountain is a huge overhanging mass of rocks, under which travellers sometimes camp, and where we found a spring. We spent some time there and made tea. The view from the top of the mountain is very fine forests spreading in all directions, towards Malacca we could see some open land. The sea and the islands, and even the old cathedral, were distinctly visible. I noticed some pitcher-plants, Melaleucas and Dachrydiums on our way up. We were told we were in luck to have had 1 Resident Councillor of Malacca. 338 SIAMESE ROYALTIES such a fine view, as, owing to the moisture of the climate, the summit is generally wreathed in mist. McCallum and I made a rapid descent, halted for a bathe at Lobok Kedongdong, and reached Chabau about 3.30." The year 1882 opened with a visit from two Siamese princes, one a half-brother of the King and the other a brother of the Queen of Siam, who were bearers of letters and presents for Queen Victoria. The visit of the royal envoys was so timed as to coincide with that of Prince Edward (the Duke of Clarence) and Prince George of Wales, who were making the " grand tour " in a squadron under the command of Admiral Lord Clanwilliam and who arrived a few days later. Sir Frederick's diary records it as follows : " Captain Tunnard went off to the Siamese yacht to arrange about landing of the princes. They are bearers of autograph letters to Lord Clanwilliam, as Commander of the detached squadron to the Duke of Clarence and Prince George to whom the Queen of Siam is presenting gold caskets of Siamese work- manship. In the afternoon the princes landed; they received a royal salute and a guard of honour of a hundred men (Buffs). I sent down three car- riages to bring them and their suite up to Govern- ment House, and received them at the foot of the staircase in full uniform. H.R.H. presented me with an autograph letter from the King of Siam, and then civil speeches and compliments followed. Their uniforms were of some kind of gold brocade very handsome. :< In the evening at 5 p.m. I went on board the Siamese yacht Vesatri to return their call wore by arrangement only frock coat, so that I might drive Prince Devawongsa in my four-in-hand. Salute was fired when we landed, and I drove the two princes to the Botanical Gardens, etc., getting them back to the yacht at dusk. The King's brother talks English admirably, and is very intelligent and agreeable. He is much pleased with Singapore, and MORE ROYAL VISITORS 339 anxious to examine all our institutions . I have placed Mr. Talbot at his service to act as cicerone. He told me he admired our success in governing the natives." The following day Lord Clanwilliam arrived by the Messageries, 1 and called at Government House to arrange about the reception of the Duke of Clar- ence and Prince George, who were to arrive two days later. Sir Frederick describes the visit in a letter to his brother in these terms : " We had the flag-staff ' dressed ' for the Duke of Clarence's birthday on the 8th, when the ships were due, but they did not arriye till the next even- ing, about 4 p.m., as I was starting for the first day's races. It is not etiquette for the Governor to make the first call, so I sent my A.D.C. and the Colonial Secretary with letters to Lord Charles Scott, Captain of the Bacchante, and Captain Durrant of the Cleopatra, and the Reverend J. Dalton, the Princes 1 governor, welcoming them, and giving them a sketch of my proposed arrangements, with copy of address to various nationalities, and so forth. No one came ashore that night. The next morning (loth) Lord Charles Scott, Captain Durrant and Mr. Dalton came and took up their quarters here, and I arranged everything with the latter, who is a first- rate fellow. He agreed to the Princes receiving an address on landing on condition there should be no salute nor guard of honour. At 4 p.m. I drove down to the jetty ; the town and bridge were beauti- fully decorated, arches and flags and awnings of every colour under the sun. As I arrived, with my two extra A.D.C.'s, a man-of-war's boat pulled up with the two Princes in plain midshipman's uniform and Mr. Dalton. He introduced and delivered them over to me, and I conducted them to a raised dais, and introduced the deputation. The address was duly read, and Prince Edward read the reply ; he was shy but dignified, and did it very well. The immense crowd of every nationality (and dress), the 1 Lord Clanwilliam had been obliged on account of his health to give up command of the Squadron, and was on his way home on sick leave, 340 SINGAPORE EN F&TE decorations, and strange boats and shipping on the river seemed to please them very much. Prince George particularly was highly amused. This was their first visit to the East, so that they had never seen anything of the sort before. They were soon quite at their ease with me, and long before we reached Government House they talked as if they had known me for years. Mena, with Chrissy and Cecily and the private secretary, were waiting to receive them on our arrival, and we took them into the drawing-room, where they amused themselves looking through a big telescope and talking to Sir Harry Parkes and his daughters. Sir Harry is, as you know, our Japanese ambassador, and a very nice fellow. Soon afterwards the King of Siam's brother arrived with another Siamese prince at- tended by a magnificent suite. The ladies then had to take up a less advanced position, and Prince George having been dragged away with difficulty from the telescope, I ushered up the Siamese royalties and presented them to the Princes, and a great exchange of civil speeches and presentation of gifts followed . After that some Malay grandees came to pay their respects, with an interpreter, and there was again an exchange of pretty speeches. When the levee was over the royal middies rushed off to change their uniforms for plain clothes and play lawn-tennis. Before it was time to dress for dinner they had been all over the place, playing with the tame pets (a delightful monkey and a puppy who romp together all day), and in fact seemed perfectly at home. We had a big dinner that evening of about forty-five people. I took our two Princes, and Mena followed with the King of Siam's brother. All went off very well ; Prince George got a little bored before the end, but he managed to smuggle a plate full of crackers on to his lap, and after that he was quite happy pulling them with Cecily, who sat next to him. In the evening we drove round to the principal Chinese streets, a procession of five or six carriages. The two Princes went with me in the first carriage, and we drove slowly so that the people could all see them. The streets were canopied over with coloured stuffs and hanging lanterns, and all the sides of the houses A DEER-DRIVE 341 lighted and decorated some in very quaint fashion. It was a very striking sight, a great crowd of natives, mostly Chinese, lining the thoroughfares, and though a very animated one it was exceedingly orderly ; fa very few policemen being all that was necessary to keep order in the streets. The next morning (iith) we had a shooting expedition. I drove the Princes in my four-in-hand to Bukit Timah police station, the rest of the party, which consisted of Lord Charles Scott, Captain Durrant, Captain Stopford, and a young middy, George Hardinge (a son of Lord Hardinge 's), and A.D.C.'s, following in the break. Here we were met by Mr. Thompson, who had got beaters, trackers, and so forth ready for the fray, and we proceeded to beat the jungle for deer or pig. Prince Edward came with me, and Prince George with Durrant, and Captain Tunnard was told off to look after little Hardinge, and see he did not shoot anybody. Two deer broke cover near our stand, but I could not get Prince Edward to see one when it would have been an easy chance, and by the time he got on to it the deer was off into the bushes ; the other was out of shot. Captain Durrant killed a boar. In the next beat Prince Edward had a shot at a deer and hit it, but not in a fatal place so it got away. We had to omit the last beat to give time for the Princes to return, get a bath, change into uniforms, get something to eat, and go off to receive the Siamese envoys on board the Bacchante. They were to have returned for the races at 4 p.m., but the Siamese were an hour behind their time, so, to the great disappointment of the people, they did not get back till the races were over. We had another large dinner-party in the evening to finish off all the notabilities. Before dinner Prince George asked me if I would not have the number of dishes cut down, so that dancing might begin sooner ; I an- swered I would give orders that they should be served as quickly as possible, which pleased him greatly. We had a little dance afterwards. On the morning of the i2th the Princes each planted a tree in front of the house. I was doing office-work all the morning, trying to make up for lost time, and they played billiards and lawn-tennis. In the after- 342 A FANCY-DRESS BALL noon we visited the ' lions ' ; the Botanical Gardens, and Fort Channing, in order to see the view. In the evening we had a fancy-dress ball, which was a huge success. The Siamese envoys came, as usual, a mass of gold embroidery, the Maharajah of Johore in black velvet with diamonds, and many of the Malay chiefs in their national dress. Besides this we had Chinese in gorgeous array, some Arabs, officers in naval and military uniforms, and the rest in every character under the sun. Mena and I alone did not dress up. Chrissy wore a Watteau frock, and Cecily appeared as Lady Rowena a very pretty and becoming fancy-dress. There were about four hundred people present, no crowding, and lots of room for everybody to see everybody else. The Rajah Dris, the Mahometan Chief Justice of Perak, who came as representative of that State and had never seen a ball before, was immensely struck by the performance. He told some one afterwards that he supposed half the ladies were the Governor's wives ! The illuminations of the house and grounds were a very pretty sight. There were about five thousand Chinese lanterns hung in festoons among the trees, and the effect of the lines of lights standing out against the heavy foliaged trees was quite fairylike, and in keeping with the scene within. "On the 1 3th the whole house-party started to spend a day and night at Johore. The ladies in the Maharajah's yacht, and I driving the four-in-hand, with two other carriages for the rest of the party went to Bukit Timah, crossed the straits (about a mile and a half wide there) in long Malay boats, manned by about eleven sailors. The Maharajah met us at the jetty ; addresses were read, to which, as they were unexpected, I had to reply on behalf of the Princes. There was a regatta and boat-races, and some lawn-tennis, followed by a dinner at which seventy-four guests were present. The evening con- cluded with juggling tricks. The Maharajah is a charming host, and I think the Princes were pleased with their reception. On the i4th we had a Malay sailing regatta, a very pretty sight, and after a late breakfast or early luncheon we recrossed the straits, and I drove Prince Edward to the races, DEPARTURE OF SQUADRON 343 Prince George following in the Maharajah's four-in- hand. I had a long and serious talk with the Prince on this occasion, and was very much struck'lby the good sense he showed in our discussion of various subjects. He asked me many questions about my career and future plans, and so forth. I never met any youth of his age who showed more thought for the feelings and convenience of other people. He has charming manners, and although rather shy has a good deal of dignity. In appearance he resembles the Princess of Wales ; Prince George is very like the pictures of George the Third, and is full of life and good-humour. I believe they were quite sorry when the time came for their departure. The Duke of Clarence repeated more than once that he would have enjoyed so much spending another week quietly with us. In the evening there were fireworks, and the town was illuminated. The squadron left at an early hour the next morning. " CHAPTER XV " The camel-driver has his thoughts : and the camel he has his." ARAB SAYING, BOUNDARY disputes seem to have taken up a great deal of the Governor's time and been the subject of much correspondence during the course of the year 1882 ; for in spite of the chiefs of Rembau having in the previous year accepted his award, they returned once more to the charge. Sir Frederick Weld's diary records that on I4th February : " The Datoh Perba of Rembau came with Swetten- ham about the Malacca boundary at the giant's grave, but made out no case. Indu Ismail, one of the Maharajah's people, came with him, and admitted that the view I took was the reasonable one. I told him that the decision must stand, but that if he had got hold of any real evidence I should be ready to listen to it. I also pointed out that the maintenance intact of the treaty was for his benefit as well as ours ; and that when in the Johol Treaty we found that we had by mistake claimed more than we had a right to, I had acquainted the Datoh of Johol with the fact, and given up some land, in the interest of justice. 1 ' In May, the Governor and his family having moved up to their summer quarters at the Hill Bungalow, Penang, Sir Frederick made it a basis for expeditions to different parts of the Peninsula. On the 8th of June he left Penang with Mr. Low in the s.s. Kinta after dinner, and arrived at an early hour the next day at the mouth of the Krian River. 344 BOTANICAL NOTES 345 " We reached," he writes in his journal, " Parit Buntar just after sunrise, Mr. Pemberton, the surveyor, and Mr. Landes, a cadet, met us here. I inspected police quarters and hospital, and at about 2.30 p.m. we entered the steam-launch, and started up the river. We landed at the spot where a canal is being made which will connect the road by water with the sea, and inspected a new sugar Elantation. Then ascended Sungei Semagoja to enambu ; all the country is a rich flat about here, an immense deal having been done lately in sugar clearing. The river very deep and about thirty yards wide at Semaba. " June loth. Started at 6 a.m., and continued our journey up the river. I was much pleased to see the rapid progress this part of the country is making. The survey department is doing good work. Passed Kuala Semagoja, and continued up the Krian River ; dense vegetation here ; I noticed a very handsome tree with mauve-coloured flowers, called by natives Bunya Bunas. 1 Also the Alpinea, a plant belonging to the ginger tribe white and orange, with chocolate spotted flowers, as nearly as I could see in passing, something like an orchid. The river was so full of snags at this point that we decided on sending the launch back to await us, and going on in small canoes. The stream was now pretty strong, the country flat and wooded, but only a few fine forest trees here and there. Our boat with luggage being left a good way behind, we decided to camp at Dusun Timan, a deserted clearing on the Kedah side. Made a fire, and dined by its light ; a fine Rembrandt-like effect, which would have made a very effective sketch. I noticed a large caladian standing alone and growing out of the mud bank. " nth. Up early, and reached Salama at about 9 a.m., where Mr. Brewster (the officer in charge) and Che Karrim, with about 1 800 Malays and Chinese miners, received us with a tom-tom band, flags flying, arches, and so forth ; a singular sight in such a remote spot, and one in which Europeans have so lately set foot. In the afternoon I visited the mines ; some of the tin is found in disintegrated 1 Lagerstroemia regia. 346 LAND DEVELOPMENT granite, and some in pipe-clay. The mines are of different character, I should say, to those at Larut, and not so rich in ore. " 1 2th. Up at daybreak, and went off to get a shot at pigs. Saw none, but bagged seven large brown and yellow pigeons. Low got a hornbill. More discussions re boundary ; the Kedah people making absurd claims, and in order to support them falsified names of rivers ; but resulted in failure, as the witnesses, after being coached, broke down in con- versation and unguardedly used the right names. " i$th. Started early, and shot pigeons on the way down, one very fine one lost. We heard a wild elephant in the jungle, but could not find him ; rejoined steam-launch and reached Parit Buntor at 3 p.m., about 30 miles by river, 14 as the crow flies. Memo. : there should be more police in this district, and Mr. Brewster (who seems the right sort of young fellow, very hard working) ought to have a pony, and Mr. Leech one too. 1 1 4th. Up at 4.30, a good many letters to write before starting at six. Low, Tunnard, Leech, and I leaving the ' boundary ditch ' by a fairly good road on ponies. The country nearly all cultivated. Crossed the canal three miles farther, and got to F. Hab's colony (rich land), then into forests where elephants and rhinoceros are still plentiful ; a she rhinoceros killed a man on the road a short time ago, and elephants do much damage to crops. The rapid development of this country is quite astonishing. In the last three years about 6000 acres have been taken into cultivation : sugar-cane 1300 acres, padi about 4000 acres, and the rest fruit and garden produce. Reached village of Bagan Serai on Kurau River about 9 p.m. Steamed about fourteen miles up the river, and landed at a place where Mr. Dew had a camp. The forest here exceedingly dense, but no very heavy timber ; returned to B. Serai, and continued journey down-stream, passing a large sugar clearing (2000 acres concession, Jim Hwee) and fishing village of Kuda Kurau ; very dirty and evil-smelling. The Kurau is a very fine river, deep and rather sluggish. Rich and fertile district from B. Serai to Kuala about fourteen miles by river, MORE JOURNEYS BY WATER 347 eight by road. The proposed road from F. Hab's colony is also a coast road from K. Krian through large padi-fields chiefly. Got on board Kinta at 7 p.m., and slept there. Boat went on to Port Weld, and anchored there. " i$th. Got under way early from anchorage. Port Weld is a lake-like expanse of water with inlets stretching in every direction. There is water and plenty of room for vessels drawing 15 feet, at high tide. " A Penghulu who owns some houses close to the future town has got a tame crocodile ; i.e. the brute comes to be fed with fish when he is called ! Steamed up to crossing of new Krian and Thaipeng road all this mangrove flat country will grow sugar, etc., magnificently when cleared. Steamed to Teluk Kiotang, and landed there. After luncheon inspected the police-station and two hospitals. Beri-beri raging amongst the coolie miners ; 500 cases in hospitals. " i6th. Captain McCallum, R.E., arrived from Penang to look over the works at the Fort with me. He entirely agrees with the objections I have made to what had been done under the direction of Lieut. Rhodes, R.E., and in the principle of the remedies I wish to see applied. With his usual quickness he at once grasped the situation and the lines to work upon. We then went to the prison, saw the carpenters', stone- cutters' sheds, and so forth. The prisoners looked well and contented ; afterwards to the gaol, which was in excellent order, no beri-beri here, or any sickness ; this is attributed to plenty of nitrogenous food being given. From the prison we went part of the way in gharies, and part on foot to the cascade and new waterworks. Left Thaipeng and got back later to the Kinta, and steamed back to Penang, where we arrived early next day." Sir Frederick's sojourn at the Hill Bungalow (it could hardly be called a holiday, as he worked nearly as hard there as in Singapore) was interrupted this summer by a disturbance in the Chinese camps. Though both European and Malay welcomed the presence of the Chinese in the colony, it was not 348 A CHINESE PLOT unattended with drawbacks. One of these was the constant state of internecine bickering in which they lived. So continual were these disputes owing to almost every Chinaman being a member of a secret society, or belonging in his own country to a tribe which was at enmity with another that it was frequently only the presence of the armed representative of British law and order which prevented their flying at each other's throats. On this occasion a deep- laid plot had been concocted by one faction to get its opponent into disgrace by giving information about a supposed conspiracy to murder and plunder the European rulers. The plotters were fortunately outwitted, and the accused liberated owing to informa- tion given by a Government officer of the name of Pickering, who filled the post of protector to the Chinese in the Peninsula. Weld's reference to this embroglio in his diary is as follows : " July 7th. A deputation of Chinese arrived this morning, introduced by Mr. Pickering. One of the men spoke who had been accused, and afterwards acquitted, in the late got-up conspiracy affair. I answered, and gave them my opinion very frankly, and did not mince matters. I told them that by placing a single gunboat off the port I could starve them all out of the country in a week. That they were indebted to the British Government for all they had, the protection they enjoyed, and the money they were making. And that as the Chinese had always lived happily under our rule, neither I nor the Resident took them for such fools as to believe they would get up conspiracies against us. But ignorant Sinkheys 1 might easily be led away by designing people, and men on the look-out for plunder also false accusations were often caused by jealousy. It was the duty of government to punish the guilty and protect the innocent, even when the guilty occupied high places. But as we were strong we did nothing in haste, or through fear ; accordingly those who had 1 Coolies who are still in their indentures. PERAK RIVER 349 been accused were acquitted, and now the informers were going to be tried, and this would be a good occasion for all who knew the truth to come out with it. Pickering told me this interview would do good." A fortnight later Sir Frederick Weld started with two of his daughters on an expedition up the Perak River. He gives the following account of it in his diary : " July nth. We got off early this morning in nine boats, and poled up the river to the kampong near Toh Sri Lela, which is a pretty place. The road, or track, which I shall take next week in going to Selak and Kinta starts from here. " i2th. Breakfasted at our old camp on the island above Chiga Gala. An Axis deer was tracked to a cover, and we beat for it, but it broke back. We found it again in a small clump, from whence it bolted for the river about forty yards from where Minnie and I were placed. She had a shot at it, with a pea-rifle, but missed, this being her first running shot, so I fired and put a bullet through its shoulder, which dropped it dead instantly. " i*$th. Left Passir Sudu early in a thick fog. As we got higher up the river we came on to some slight rapids, which, however, presented little difficulty, the banks always thickly wooded with secondary jungle, and kampongs and cottages here and there. Stopped at an island, where we shot two plovers, and I noticed some very flourishing tobacco of the kind we used to call ' Virginian ' in New Zealand about half an acre of it. Hills on either side, about 2000 feet in height. ' 1 4th. Started early, and arrived at Kota Tempan at 8 a.m. River here is 150 yards wide, and about 3 feet deep being very low. After breakfast Low and I went half a mile up it to rapids, which we ascended and descended in a small canoe. They are more than a mile long ; the river is very rocky here, and when it is higher must appear a sheet of foam. They cannot compare in difficulty to the Wanganui rapids or many other New Zealand ones, 25 350 THE KINTA which I used to navigate in my canoe. On our way back I rode with Minnie on Sri Kaga, the little elephant we caught last year ; then embarked back to K. Tampan. " \$th. Up at early dawn, and off to the island, but did not see anything. I took Cicely and Edie to shoot larks along the open space by the shore ; Edie got two larks and a beautiful bee-eater." After returning to Kuala Kangsa, and spending three or four days there in transacting business, and writing for the English mail, Sir Frederick started again eastward to visit the Kinta district. Started early from Kepayang ; very slow at getting off, owing to our having 23 elephants. Track through a forest ; some very fine trees. Passed a deserted Malay smelting shed ; an offering to the spirits was hanging up ; i.e. a neat kind of little cradle, with wooden models of all the tools used by miners attached to it. The forest we passed through is supposed to be haunted by a peculiarly malignant race of demons. Entered the plain of Chemar before dusk ; a very pretty view of distant hills seen from this spot. Datoh Panglina Kinta came to meet us here a nice old fellow, very lively and intelligent. " 24th. Left early on elephants ; passing through forest a great game was started everybody pelting each other with wild fruit. I confined myself to collecting ammunition from off my elephant which led the procession, and giving it to the Alang Lampa, who with her companion was on the second elephant. She had quite lost her shyness, and was in high spirits, having reached her own country and people. Passed a tin mine at Kinding, and not long after- wards got to the Kinta (a stream like the Hodder, only smaller). We followed some way down its banks through open jungle and woods very pretty country then stopped, and all hands set to work to fish. I got six or eight large ' klah,' which are like carp only reddish, of from 8 to 12 Ib. weight. Passed Gunong Timrank, one of the remarkable limestone hills common in the Peninsula, and arrived at Tanjong FISH-SPEARING 351 Kinkong. Here we put up at the Datoh's house, a large Malay hut, raised high on posts amongst fruit trees and close to the river. " 2$th. We went fishing, some on elephants, some in boats, I in a canoe. All the village turned out, and it was great fun. I speared six great klah, and a roach. Twenty big fish were caught weighing from 10 to 15 Ib. ; one of them was a sebarah. I was surprised to find that this fish, which takes a minnow, is leather-mouthed and barbed. It is darker and bluer than the klah, and like it has very large scales, and is toothless. Another fish called the tapa * was caught, but unluckily I did not see it ; according to the Datoh, it grows to a great size, and is excellent eating. I went head over heels into the water over-balancing myself in the canoe in a moment of excitement and loud were the shouts when the Tuan Governor Besar disappeared under the water, and great the rush to the rescue. How- ever, I was not out of my depth, so I soon came to the surface amidst sympathetic yells from the spectators. " 26th. Heavy rain in the night and flood on the river, which carried away bathing-house and the canoe in which I was to have descended it. Started down river, and frequently crossed it, on elephants ; the country fertile, and open with isolated limestone hills on each side of the valley ; reached Ipoh, which is a large straggling village, at about noon. The two head-men, Datoh Muda and Datoh Husin, met me a short way from the village ; and the people were assembled outside the joss-house with bands of music, flags, and the usual demonstrations. The Datoh's head wife received me at the foot of the staircase, and took me up to the room which had been prepared for me a very pretty one hung in silk, carpeted, and with lovely embroidered cushions. I gave a buffalo to be killed for the people to feast upon, and a goat for the Sikhs. Went to see the new road we are making to Kuala Kangsa ; it is eight feet and a half wide, and eleven miles of it are already finished. Also saw the Sungei Raja road on the opposite side of the village, which has just been commenced. This road will cost 250 dollars a 1 A kind of fresh- water shark. 352 A CHINESE SETTLEMENT mile, owing to heavy stumps ; over the open padi- land it will only cost 160 more, of course, in swamp. " 27th. Took leave of the Che Utih, who was very pleased when I told her she must come and see my wife and daughters when she goes to Singapore. Maxwell 1 and I rode on elephants, following the course of the new road, which is finished almost up to S. Raja. The country is flat and very fertile, and in places the scenery pretty, particularly on approaching S. Raja. We were met there by Toh Dombu and Mr. Crawford. The former took me to his house, which was prettily decorated, his wife and every one most friendly. I hear he is considered a first-rate man. I had a good deal of talk with Hewitt yesterday, and with Maxwell to-day, about forced labour, pensions to the lesser officers in native states, and other matters. Continued our journey eastward through a more hilly country till we reached Gopeng, in the centre of a large mining district. About fifteen hundred Chinese here ; we were met by a great crowd, and the usual accompaniment of crackers. Received deputation, and inspected tin mines, which extend to a great distance in all directions. " 2&th. Made an early start on elephants, and travelled through undulating country, chiefly secondary jungle, and some clearings. Reached the banks of the Kinta about 7 a.m., and embarked in canoes. Arrived at Batu Gaja at noon, landed, and went to Mr. Hewitt's bungalow, where we lunched with his wife and sister-in-law. Inspected his new line of road which is to go to K. Kangsa, and then mounted our elephants again, and after a rather hot ride on a good road reached Papan, where we were met by a crowd of miners, and volcanoes of crackers. Slept in a balek 2 ; a little boy, son of Rajah Bilah, insisted on giving me a tame black monkey. " 2gth. Six hours through dense forest (fine trees) took us to Blanja on the Perak. Rajah Hadgi, Penghulu of Blanja, who had accompanied us during the journey, took me to his house, and intro- 1 Afterwards Sir William Maxwell, K.C.M.G. At that time Assist- ant Resident^of Perak. He became' Governor of the Gold Coast Colony, and died in 1908. 2 Court-house. DEBT-BONDAGE 353 duced his wife to me. We went afterwards to the balek, where all the chiefs assembled, at my invita- tion. I spoke to them and wished them good-bye. (N.B. My parting with the Datoh Panglina Kinta was quite affectionate.) Embarked on the river, slept on board, reaching K. Kangsa next morning. " 30/A. Rajah Muda came to call upon me. We had a long talk about debt-slavery ; he wishes to have it settled at once, to which I willingly assented. Started in the afternoon for Penang, which I reached the following day." Debt-bondage was the crying sin of the Malays as a nation ; and as it was bound up with all their habits and tastes, and had existed for untold genera- tions, and, moreover, was one of the " customs " which the Government in taking over the protection of the native States had agreed to tolerate, no forcible measures could be used for its extirpation. The traveller's tales told of the horrors inflicted not only on debtors, but on their wives and children, and their descendants (for till the debt was repaid these also were forfeit), almost exceed belief. No doubt in some cases they were exaggerated the Malays, unless roused to fury by wrongs, real or imaginary, being a kindly and peaceable race. Unfortunately for both the slave and the owner, this custom ap- pealed to all the worst and weakest points of the Datoh or Rajah. It enabled him to live at ease, whilst his slave laboured in the padi-field, or rowed his barge of state, or performed the menial tasks of his house. Even more important, slaves swelled the number of his followers when he went to war, added to his importance, and ministered to his vanity or his lust. Forbearance and the greatest tact had to be exercised to persuade the rulers that so valuable a national institution must in time give way before what probably they called European prejudice, and we, enlightenment. No greater testimony to the 354 RANEE MAHDI efficiency of the Residential system can be given than that before it had been ten years at work the native chiefs should not only have agreed to the abolition of this custom but have petitioned for it. An entry in Sir Frederick's diary on his return to Singapore shows that the women of the East are not quite such puppets and sinecures as they are ranked in the estimation of their sisters of the Western hemisphere. " October $th. Ranee Mahdi called about her house and allowance, and pressed to see me. I was very busy with the Colonial Secretary (the following being mail-day), but I consented to let her have a five minutes' interview. She began by throwing herself at my feet, and as she is very fat and no light weight I had considerable difficulty in dragging her up and getting her into a chair. She then talked volubly rolling her big black eyes the while. She is the cleverest woman I believe in the Malay peninsula, and a great political plotter. I fancy she must have given the old warrior enough to do to manage her. Her object this morning was to complain about her house, which was letting in water, roof gone, and so on. I said I would have it put right. She argued with vivacity and many gestures, but with a pleasing modulated voice, like a lady." The end of this year brought a great sorrow to Sir Frederick the prospect of the approaching death of his cousin and the friend of his youth, Sir Henry Clifford. 1 He mentions it thus in his diary : " Got up early and wrote to Henry Clifford. I fear this closes my lifelong friendship with dear Henry, and will be my last communication with him till we meet in the next world. Though we haye passed most of our lives, since manhood, apart, his life has always seemed a part of mine, and now he has gone to die of a painful disease at dear old Ugbrooke, where we used to play as boys together. God's will be done." 1 Major-General the Hon. Sir Henry Clifford, V.C., K.C.B. A MALAY SQUIRE 355 In a letter from Weld to his brother and sister-in- law to whom he wishes a happy New Year he reviews his work in pacifying the native States, a subject which, apart from private joys and sorrows, seems to have been the principal object of his thoughts and interests at this time : " I am glad to say that my interview with the chiefs at Bukit Putus a year and a half ago has borne fruit ; all goes on there as quietly as possible. I was up in that country just before Christmas, and an old fellow called Bongsu came to see me who is. a kind of ' squire ' of his village, or parish. He is hideously ugly, decidedly violent and cantankerous with his neighbours, but very popular with his own people. He loves me and the late Resident of our Protected State with enthusiasm, and expresses it with ' effusion ' ! His heart's desire is that we should assume the protectorate over the group of States to which he belongs. About eight years ago they attacked us and were beaten at B. Putus, and we occupied all their country, and the old man was wounded whilst fighting against us, and delights in showing his wound. ' I didn't know you then,' he told me, ' I didn't know the kind of people you were, or I would never have fought against you. Why did you go away ? it would have been much better for us if you had stayed.' The fact is, after we had beaten them, an officer, Captain Murray, was sent there as Resident, who was much loved by the Malays. Then after a year we gave up the country, and a chief or overlord of the Heptarchy was elected, and acknow- ledged by us. He has not been a success, and there had been much disputing till I went up and lectured them at B. Putus last year the Yam Tuan on ad- ministering with justice and clemency, and keeping good order in his States, and his subjects on the duties of submission to him. I don't know how long it will last, but it shows what can be done with these people by tact and kindness. Old Bongsu brought me some rice, and said he could not possibly swallow a grain of his new crop till I had eaten some. He said the Yam Tuan had never troubled him since I had spoken, 356 OPIUM SMUGGLING but when I asked him if they were friends he opened a mouth like a cavern, and made a face of disgust which was quite inimitable, and said that he and the Yam Tuan had met in the street and that he the Rajah had cut him ! " Though Sir Frederick Weld constantly testifies how his efforts to ameliorate the lives of the people under his sway were backed up by his subordinates, how loyal they were to him, and anxious to carry out his views, it would be foolish to deny that he did not encounter now and then disillusionment. Thus on one occasion he met with nothing but annoyance on a visit to Kuala Lumpor. The hospital was in a " disgraceful state, dirty, the patients neglected, and for want of a little care and attention the water was pouring in through the roof on to one of the wards." Inquiries elicited the fact that the doctor was continually drunk. He was got rid of. The Resident also had been slack. Weld remarks in his diary : " Half the orders I gave on my last visit here have not been carried out, and those that have been carried out, not properly, or to my satisfaction. It is a singular fact that I have had to dismiss two-thirds of the staff of officials here, since I came, for inefficiency." The Chinese population also gave much trouble during the early months of the year 1883. A smuggling conspiracy was discovered which had, through a system of terrorism peculiar to that nation, defied even the knowledge and experience of the " Protec- tor of the Chinese," Mr. Pickering, to run to ground. When it was finally brought home to the delinquents, a great effort was made to get them off, some of them holding high positions in the colony. A petition was addressed to Lord Derby (Secretary of State for the Colonies) to have their sentence of banishment from A GREAT DURBAR 357 the country commuted. The Governor also sent his views on the case, and received the message in reply that Lord Derby left the decision with him. Weld's comment in his diary is as follows : " February 2%th. Meeting of Legislative Council. I made a very outspoken statement re my policy and action on the opium conspiracy. I hit straight from the shoulder, and quite carried the House. Ex. Council decided to send both banished men back to China." The affairs of Rembau, which had long been in an unsatisfactory state owing to the deserved unpopu- larity of the Datoh Penghulu, reached a crisis in the March of this year owing to a murder which was un- mistakably traced to that chieftain. It was time to take strong measures ; accordingly the Governor summoned the peccant ruler with the other members of his family and heads of tribes to meet him at a grand durbar at Malacca to hear his fate. Sir Frederick left Singapore on the 26th of March, accom- panied by Lord Clifford, who was on a visit to him at Government House, his secretary, Mr. Browne, and his A.D.C's., Capt. Tunnard and Lieut. Hugh Cholmondeley. The Governor on landing at Malacca was received by a salute of seventeen guns. He was met by the Hon. Dudley Hervey, Resident Councillor; Mr. Paul, H.M.'s Resident at Sungei Ujong ; Mr. Swetten- ham, H.M.'s Resident at Selangor ; His Highness Rajah Dris, Chief Judge of Perak ; Tungku Antar, the Yam Tuan of Sri Menanti ; Kahar, son of the Sultan of Selangor ; Dolah, son of the late Sultan of Selangor ; Lela Stia, the Datoh Klana of Sungei Ujong ; Ahmed, the Datoh Bandar of Sungei Ujong ; the Datoh Muda of Linggi ; and all the principal Government officials. A large number of the Rem- bau people was also present, a guard of honour of Sikh Police being drawn up on the quay. 358 A STRONG CASE The object of the Governor's visit to Malacca was to endeavour to finally settle the differences which have existed in the State of Rembau for a lengthened period, and with that object in view His Excellency appointed the Hon. Dudley Hervey, Mr. Swettenham, and His Highness Rajah Dris, Commissioners to collect information, take evidence of witnesses, and report to him on arrival. Accord- ingly, in the afternoon of Friday, the 3Oth of March, the Commissioners having concluded their labours, and carried out the various points of inquiry directed by the Governor, His Excellency summoned Hadji Sahil, Syed Hamed, and their respective followers, to meet him at the Stadt Haus that evening. At the appointed hour, the Governor, who was accompanied by Lord Clifford and the officers of His Excellency's personal staff, the Resident Councillor of Malacca the Residents of Sungei Ujong and Selangor, and His Highness Rajah Dris, entered the Audience Chamber at 8.30 p.m. A large number of the Rembau men was assembled, and Hadji Sahil and Syed Hamed were both present. After the Governor and suit had taken their places on the dais, His Excellency proceeded to explain to those assembled the object of calling them together, and then ascertained who amongst those present had a right to vote on the election or deposition of a Datoh Penghulu of Rembau ; the voters being almost without exception in the Hall. Mr. Swettenham, who acted as interpreter, then read over to Datoh Hadji Sahil the charges which had been laid against him by the people of Rembau of misgovernment exemplified by fourteen cases of murder, in which justice had not been done, and which were inquired into seriatim. The evidence of Karim, the assassin of Laksamana Budin, was next read ; it was most precise and full of detail, and directly implicated the Datoh Penghulu. To some of the RULER DEPOSED 359 charges he pleaded forgetfulness, and to others he gave a flat denial. The voters, namely, the four Orang Besar, the eight Suku Datohs, and the twelve Sukus, then remained to deliberate, and the rest of the assembly were requested to withdraw. A large part of those present, chiefly those who had been supporters of Hadji Sahil, the Datoh Penghulu, stated that they had by letter offered the country to the Governor, and had asked for the Residential system, and that they left the decision to His Excellency. The Governor replied that he had good reason to believe that the letter in question had been signed with very imperfect knowledge of its real import and consequences ; the prosperity of the native States under the Residential system could only be attained by the introduction of taxation, and of other institutions with which they were unfamiliar ; that later, after knowing us better, and profiting by our advice, if they should really wish for the Residential system and ask for it, then it might be considered, but that at present they were not ripe for it. Many chiefs, most friendly to our Govern- ment, were opposed to the introduction of the Resi- dential system at present, and it was not the real wish of the country that it should be introduced now. He also informed them that the question of appoint- ing a Rajah Muda or Yam Tuan Besar l could not then be considered, as clearly a very large part of the voters and country were opposed to it ; the question therefore was the appointment of a Datoh Penghulu. The Governor was strongly pressed to decide whether Hadji Sahil should be deposed, and either a new Datoh Penghulu elected or the rival Penghulu, Hadji Mustapha, recognised, receiving the assurance that the electors would unanimously assent to His Excellency's decision. The Governor told them that 1 Rajah Muda, i.e. heir to the Yam Tuan, or paramount chief. 360 ELECTION OF SUCCESSOR from what they had heard and seen that evening, it was perfectly certain that Hadji Sahil had grossly misgoverned the country, even if any doubted his complicity in grave crimes ; that Hadji Mustapha was strongly opposed by large numbers, and had never been recognised by the British Government, and that therefore they must elect a new Datoh Penghulu whom all must support, and who, if accepted, would be assisted and supported, and on occasions of difficulty advised, by the Governor, and who could at any time communicate with the Resident Councillor at Malacca. They all willingly bound themselves to this, and shook hands as a token that former enmities were ended. They then urgently begged the Governor to suggest a name, and, in answer to repeated requests, His Excellency indicated Mahomed Hasan, the Maharajah Mantri Lela Perkasa, as an apparently sensible and moderate man, who appeared to be on good terms with both parties. The voters were then left alone to consult together. After a long interval, His Excellency re-entered the Hall, when it appeared that a constitu- tional point had been raised as to whether the Maharajah Mantri was eligible for election, as he was of the Jakun tribe, that of the deposed Datoh Penghulu ; it was admitted that if a Datoh Penghulu is deposed, one of his own tribe succeeds ; but if two depositions take place, it was argued that they were equivalent to a death, and that consequently accord- ing to law the succession would pass to the other tribe, the " Jawa." This point was put to the vote, and held to be good by a large majority. The Datoh Mangkabuni Abdul Samat, a young chief, was then pre- sented to the Governor to be elected, but he modestly declined the honour. Finally, Serun Bin Syed, the Shahbandar, was elected by a large majority, and all signed their names to an undertaking to support him. A PRONOUNCEMENT 361 Hadji Sahil, the ex-Penghulu, having been called into the room and informed by the Governor that he had been deposed, and that he could not be per- mitted, for the present, to return to Rembau, the proceedings closed shortly after 4 a.m. At 4 o'clock in the afternoon of Saturday, the 3ist March, His Excellency held a General Meeting in the courtyard of the Stadt Haus, which was decor- ated with flags and flowers on the occasion, for the purpose of announcing the decision at which he had arrived. Punctually at the hour named, the Gover- nor, who appeared in full uniform, and was accom- panied by the Officers of the Staff, ascended the dais, on which seats were reserved for the Rajahs and others of high rank, and made the following address : " ' Rajahs, Datohs, and all here assembled <( ' I meet you now to announce my decision upon the subjects which have been brought before me in regard to the troubles in Rembau. " ' I have been asked to take over Rembau and to place a Resident there, but that is not the wish of the whole people, and it is not my desire to come here to arrange difficulties at the request of many of the people of Rembau, and then to take over the govern- ment of the country to myself. Later, when the minds of the people of Rembau are calmer, it will be time enough for them to express such wishes, and for the Governor to consider them. " ' I have been asked to give to Rembau a Rajah, but this is not at present the desire of the whole people of Rembau, nor is it necessary, for they have the Governor to appeal to if they wish ; I have not thought that it is desirable to give them a Rajah now. " ' But with regard to a Datoh Penghulu, it was necessary that action should be taken, to prevent discord and to secure better government. It was im- possible that Rembau should be allowed to remain without right or justice or observance of good rule, and Jt_ is an evil thing to see a country divided in 362 THE CUSTOMS OF REMBAU itself, and a trouble to its neighbours; and its ruler gravely accused, and incapable of uniting his people and governing wisely. ' For these reasons, I have agreed that Haji Sahil be deposed ; nor should Haji Mustapha, his rival, succeed him, for trouble will ensue, and the people will be divided in either case. " ' But I willingly elect Serun Bin Saidin, who has been elected by the free votes of the proper electors the four Orang Besar, the eight Datohs Sukus, and the twelve Sukus of Rembau. " ( I warn him to respect the good customs of Rem- bau, and to consult his proper advisers and Datohs, and to do justice, and to remember that the head-men of Rembau are now united and have shaken hands. He is not to favour one party above another, but to show equal justice and friendship to all, and if he has difficulties he will ask advice from the Governor, and thus he will be helped and supported, and establish peace and prosperity in his country. u< And now I thank the Rajah and chiefs, who from Perak, Selangor, Sungei Ujong, Sri Menanti, and elsewhere, have come to meet me and who will witness the arrangement that we now make in testi- mony of the desire of Malay States to help one another and repress evil under the shield of the Government of Her Majesty the Queen and Empres ." " The following treaty was then signed. "' i. Whereas difficulties have arisen in Rembau, and the people of Rembau have repeatedly com- plained to the Government of the Straits Settlements that their old customs were not being followed, that injustice was done, crimes committed without due punishment of the guilty, and generally that they were not satisfied with present arrangements and all the chiefs concerned having now assembled at Malacca on this date, and it having been made evident that the Penghulu of Rembau, Haji Sahil, disregards the established customs and laws of Rembau, and has committed many unjustifiable acts, and that many of his head-men and chiefs are determined no longer to follow his rule, they do now, with the consent FAVOURABLE RESULTS 363 of the Government, depose Haji Sahil, and he is no longer the Penghulu of Rembau. u< 2. The elective chiefs and people of Rembau do now unanimously select Serun bin Saidin to be the Penghulu of Rembau, and His Excellency the Governor, on behalf of the British Government, hereby acknowledges Serun bin Saidin to be the Penghulu of Rembau. "'3. In all cases of difficulty or difference, the Signatories to this engagement agree to refer to the Governor of the Straits Settlements, and to abide by his decision. '"4. It is hereby agreed by all whose seals or signatures are affixed to this document, that they will abide by the terms of this engagement, and will mutually assist in maintaining its provisions and in punishing any one who contravenes any of the afore- said articles. "'I approve. (Signed) ' FRED. A. WELD, " Governor and Commander-in-Chief, S.S.' " To this document were appended the signatures or marks of the ten principal Datohs of Rembau and of the Rajahs representing Sri Menanti, Perak, Selan- gor, and Sungei Ujong." 1 An immediate result of this treaty was that the new Datoh Penghulu and his chiefs invited the Resident Councillor to make arrangements with the opium farmers with regard to the Rembau dues, a measure which served at once to check the smuggling in that and the surrounding districts. The people of Rembau gave further proof of goodwill by volunteering to show the Government officials the landmarks of our posses- sions on the Naning frontier, about which there had been much dispute, and by which we now by their own admission gained an accession of territory. The Malay States at this time seem to have been attacked with what might almost be termed an 1 Taken from the Straits Times, April 1883. 364 JELABU epidemic of attachment to the British Crown. A fortnight later the following entry occurs in Weld's diary : 11 April 12th. I had a long interview this morning with the Datoh Penghulu of Jelabu and his waris. They earnestly] invited me to undertake the govern- ment of that little State, and settle their difficulties. I explained to them that as the representative of the British Government I could not accept their offer to take over their country, but that I would do what I could to help them and get them out of their diffi- culties.' 1 r mm Later on in the month the Governor made an expedition to Perak to see how certain works that he had set in hand were progressing. He writes on 29th April. " Arrived at 5 a.m. at Teluk Anson, and found the place immensely im- proved ; walked round and inspected barracks, police-station, and hospital. Walked across the isthmus to the site of the old D. Sabatang, and back by the side of the canal (flood-gates not up yet). Very much pleased with the progress of the new town wide streets and some good buildings. " April $oth. Low arrived early in the Kinta ; after a talk with him went to breakfast with Denison, who has a charming house and collection of swords, krisses and other curios, also some interesting old books. A great number of Rajahs and Penghulus came to be presented to me. Rajah Dris was pre- vented by illness. The emancipation of slaves is going on splendidly. I have been struck by the apparent good feeling which exists between the head- men and their slaves. What is very remarkable is that many have set them free ' for the love of God,' and have refused all payment from Government, saying, ' Can we sell those we love for money like buffaloes ? ' The slaves also almost universally refuse to leave their masters ; it is quite common, I am told, for the slave-children to call their mistress mother when they have lost their own, and to look COLONIAL PROSPECTS 365 upon them in all respects as such. Still the system was unquestionably a bad one, and in many cases it led to gross abuses." This summer was in many respects a sad one for Sir Frederick Weld. In the spring he heard of the dangerous illness of his youngest sister, to whom he was tenderly attached, and shortly afterwards the news of her death. His greatest and earliest friend, Sir Henry Clifford, died in April. His own health was also bad. There are constant references in his diary to severe attacks of gout and neuralgia. More than once a very new thing for him he complains of overwork ; and remarks that the doctor has threatened him with a complete breakdown unless he curtails his six or seven daily hours of office work. After repeated warnings of this kind he wrote to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, and having repre- sented to him that he had been fifteen years Governor without a break he requested a year's leave to return to England and recruit. He received a very kind and complimentary letter from Lord Derby in reply, coupled with the permission to take a year's leave from the spring of 1884. The prospects of the Colony and of the protected States were never brighter than this year, and at the July meeting of the Legislative Council, when the Governor summed up the proceedings of the past year and produced his estimates for the coming one, there was nothing to be noted but progress in every department. After the usual preamble he remarks : " I can look forward with increased confidence to the future a confidence based on the sustained improvement of all branches of revenue ; the general increase of trade and means of communication ; the influx of foreign capital and machinery, and also by more intimate and friendly relations with the smaller Malay States and closer co-operation for 26 366 OVER-CENTRALISATION peace and good order in the Peninsula of the ' pro- tected ' ones. " I next propose with your assistance and the sanction of Her Majesty's Secretary of State to take steps towards bringing the native races in our country districts into closer contact with the Government by means of local officers, acting where possible in co- operation with native head-men Malay or Chinese. At present they know us (amongst the mass of the people at least) chiefly as tax-gatherers and as police ; it is my policy to let them also know us as taking an interest in their general welfare, as arbiters in their petty disputes, as their friends and advisers. This has been done to a considerable extent in pro- tected States. In the Straits Settlements we have not had resident Government Agents, and the Peng- hulu system has been neglected. The process will be necessarily slow and tentative, but with the races with which we have to deal (who, properly treated, are very amenable) it can be accomplished ; thus our in some respects over-centralised administra- tion may be to a certain extent at least rendered more local and more congenial to the habits and feelings of the native races. I shall also ask you to vote a moderate sum of money to enable me to assist independent native States to make roads, to open mineral and agricultural country, and afford communication with our territories and between territories under our influence ; for the promotion, in short, of commerce and order. Since the settlement of the Rembau difficulty, and the election of a Datoh willing to take our advice and that of his chiefs in accordance with the customs of his country, and who appears desirous of keeping order and improving the condition of his people, a great change for the better has taken place in the adjoining territories. Many small States have applied to me for advice, more especially in regard to raising a settled revenue, to suppressing robberies and murder, to opening mines and making roads, and I have lately held conversa- tions on the subject with Tunku Antar the Yam Tuan of Sri Menanti, with the Yam Tuan of Jelabu, with Syed Hamed of Tampin, with the Datohs of Inas and Gemincheh, the Datoh Jenang of Johol ; and FRONTIER DISPUTES 367 many others. I propose meeting the Datoh Serun of Rembau and his chiefs in Rembau very shortly, and to walk across his territory to Linggi by the line of a road which is intended to unite Lubok China in Malacca with Linggi in Sungei Ujong. Besides this, Tunku Antar and Syed Hamed are also not only willing but anxious that a road should be made from our Malacca boundary through Tampin Teratchi and Sri Menanti to the Bukit Putus pass. From that pass a road now leads to the Residency in Sungei Ujong. I need not dilate on the great advantage these roads would be to the Colony, In the same way Jelabu wants assistance, and as it is exceedingly rich in minerals it would soon be able, and is per- fectly willing, to repay advances. But the increased trade to Sungei Ujong and thence would in itself repay any small help that might be given to these people. " 4. The condition of the protected States is good. The progress of Perak is unprecedented ; a slight difficulty lately arose in one district (owing perhaps to its containing many of the relations and former dependents of the murderers of Mr. Birch, the first Resident, and to want of intercourse with European officers) when armed resistance was threatened to a tax imposed by the State Council. I mention this incident that I may bear testimony to the judicious firmness and moderation of Sir Hugh Low, backed by his officers and his military police, which resulted not only in the submission of the tribe, but in the establishment of friendly relations. " 5. I have, with the sanction of the Home Govern- ment, entered, through Her Majesty's Agency at Bangkok, into negotiations with the King of Siam regarding the upper portion of Perak valley, which has, for some time, been encroached upon by Siamese authorities, to the great detriment of order, and of the State of Perak, to which it properly belongs. Her Majesty's Acting Agent's representations have been received in the best spirit, and I have every hope that the friendly disposition and sense of justice of His Majesty the King of Siam will enable the Commission which has been appointed, to make arrangements which will be not only satisfactory 368 RAILWAY SURVEYS to Perak, but to the inhabitants of the district themselves. "6. The first short section of railway connecting Port Weld with Thaipeng will soon be opened, and will be the first line running in the Malay Peninsula. The Perak railway will thence be gradually extended in northerly and south-easterly directions, opening extremely valuable tracts of agricultural and mineral country. "7. Selangor is making a very marked advance, and preliminary surveys for a railway, which is most essentially necessary to the proper development of its resources, are in progress. "8. Sungei Ujong has less mineral resources, but its roads now reach within a few miles of Jelabu, and if the Jelabu mines are opened, both States will make an immediate advance in revenue and in population. " I have already had occasion to congratulate you and the Colony on the decision regarding Indian immigration arrived at by H.E. the Governor- General. I am glad to be able to inform you that Mr. Buck, on the part of the Government of India, and Major Fischer, on the part of that of Madras, have been deputed to visit this Colony and confer with me on the question. I have directed that every facility should be given them to acquire full infor- mation ; and I entertain no doubt but that the interests of the Indians themselves no less than those, of our planters will best be consulted by an increased and free immigration under proper safe- guards. It does not affect our planting interests only, much as it affects them. It goes beyond that ; it is the question whether we shall facilitate or impede the exodus of a race which, overcrowded and starved in their own country, is seeking a natural outlet by establishing them in a country where they would be enabled by the fruits of their industry to live in comfort and prosperity under favourable conditions, and in a congenial climate. I doubt not that a satisfactory solution of the question will shortly be arrived at." The Governor then proceeded to lay before the Council the estimates for the following year. He A FORECAST 369 sums up his message by recapitulating the various works which were to be begun or completed during the course of the year. Amongst these the most important were the new general hospital at Singapore at the Sepoy lines ; landing-place and boat accommo- dation, and extension at Fort Fullerton ; extension of the Raffles' girls' school ; new European and native hospitals in Penang and Province Wellesley ; telephone communication throughout the Province and Penang, including Muka Head Lighthouse and Pula Jerajah ; the leper asylum ; and a duplicate cable laid across the Straits between the island and the Province ; and the construction of Muka Head Lighthouse. The Governor also gave a list of works which were approaching completion. In the month of August, Sir Frederick carried out his intention of visiting the interior of the peninsula. An account of this journey was given by an eye-witness, and appeared in The Times of 28th August 1884, from which the following extracts are taken : 1 The chief credit of the astonishing progress made by the protected States must be given to the Governor, Sir Frederick Weld. Unlike the majority of our colonial rulers, he is not satisfied with the mere perusal of reports, or even with the cheap labour of occasional visits paid to the headquarters of district officers. During the summer of 1883 he made a three months' journey up the interior of the peninsula from Malacca to Perak, keeping the central range of mountains on his right, and crossing the rivers at their upper waters. This tract had never been previously traversed in its entirety by one man, and the results likely to follow from such a rapid general view can- not fail to afford valuable material for the future connecting together of the various States. The Governor's journey, though it was not marked by any very startling incidents, and though the density of the jungle prevented him at times from obtaining a 370 RIVER- WAYS good view of the country, has yet demonstrated that no difficulty exists to making a good inland road. This would run along the base of the mountain chain which divides the east from the west of the peninsula. There is no serious obstacle existing even to the con- struction of a railway from the southern Malacca boundary on the Kessang to the northern frontier of Perak on the Muda River. Thus would be con- structed a very considerable section of the railway which the Singapore people hope will some day connect them with Burmah, possibly with India, and not at all improbably with Siam and China. As a matter of fact another year will see a bridle path running the entire length of Sir Frederick's route. Tin districts lie all along the line, and these will be thus connected with one another, while millions of acres of excellent agricultural low-lying land, as well as plantation country on the uplands, will be made accessible. At present the population is very thin, and, as is invariably the custom in Eastern countries, is established only on the rivers, many of which only require a little clearing and straightening to make them easily navigable by native boats. Not a few are even now open to craft of ten tons to distances of from 50 to 80 miles. The Perak and Bernam rivers will float sea-going ships to a very considerable way into the interior. Natural routes for trade, therefore, already exist, and the riding paths and roads being pushed forward everywhere will rapidly open up new districts to commercial enterprise. One railway that from Port Weld to the great Chinese tin mines at Thaipeng in Larut, the northern annexe of Perak is already all but finished, and within the last six months another from Selangor to the tin centre at Kuala Lumpor has been commenced. But the riches of these native States do not exist only in tin. Almost every kind of tropical produce does well coffee, cinchona, sago, tapioca, tea, cacao, sugar, indigo, rice, only require to be cultivated to grow luxuriantly. The tobacco which thrives so well on the other side of the Straits at Deli and other places in Sumatra, is found to do equally well in Perak. Not far from Kuala Lumpor, the proposed terminus of the railway just begun, Sir Frederick Weld passed through an ex- A DISMAL SWAMP 371 tensive forest of camphor trees, many of which were over 200 feet high. As this forest must become of enormous value, the Governor gave directions that it should be reserved to the State and that only single trees should be sold as they were required. Cinchona and Arabian coffee are found to do particularly well on the inland and other mountains, while Siberian coffee thrives more especially in the lowlands. No better idea of the future of the native States can be given than by pointing out what has happened in our possessions on the mainland. Province Wellesley has been in our hands so long that the contrast is almost too strong. Well-made roads, far better than most country roads in England, extend from end to end. Almost the entire area is under cultivation. It seems almost beyond belief that at the beginning of the century this wealthy and prosperous province was part mangrove swamp, part impenetrable jungle. But in the strip of land immediately to the south of it we can see this transformation actually going on under our eyes. Ten years ago the Krian district, ceded to us by the Treaty of Pangkor, was a dismal marsh, where the Nipah palm sprang out of the salt swamp, and molluscs grew on the slimy roots of the mangrove, and little clumps of them occasionally broke hold and went drifting up and down with the tide. Not a living thing was to be seen except alli- gators and sea-snakes, with sometimes a troop of monkeys who came down to feed on the sea shells left behind at low water. A little farther inland, where the ground was firmer, came the casuarina, the wild cotton-tree, palms of all kinds, feathery bamboo clumps, wait-a-bit thorns the whole bound into an impenetrable mass by the wealth of creepers, so that nothing but the elephant or the rhinoceros could force a way through. This dense jungle has within five years been suddenly transformed into a highly cultivated and populous plain, traversed by broad drains, and embankments, which them- selves are in process of conversion into canals and roads. ( There is no reason why what is possible in our territory should not be equally possible in the native States. The only difficulty is that capitalists are not 372 THE CHINESE QUESTION so ready to embark their money in a country where there is not the stability of British rule. Just now everything is going well, but it is possible that at some future time things might not go on so pleasantly. Fortunately the Malay is very easy to rule. The popular opinion of him as an individual addicted to piracy and ' running amok ' is even more wrong than is usually the case with popular notions. He is a grave and dignified personage who cannot understand a joke ; he requires to be dealt with very patiently, and must not on any account be hurried when he has a story to tell you. Probably a personal knowledge of their ruler has more influence with the Malays than with any other nation, and Sir Frederick Weld's excursions through the native States have therefore a particular value. Nevertheless everything seems to indicate that the whole of the western half of the peninsula will in time become our territory. The possible conflict between the native ruler and his adviser is the great danger of the Straits system, and it is one that can never be finally got rid of. Another circumstance which points inevitably to annexation is the sparse population of the Malay States. This has been brought about by debt slavery, and by the poverty of the people, caused by the grinding rule of the Rajahs and subordinate chiefs. If we had to trust to the Malays themselves it would be many a year before the country was cultivated. But there is no lack of immigrants. The Chinaman, of course, as everywhere else in the East, flocks there in ship- loads and makes himself thoroughly at home. Sir Frederick Weld is very anxious for Indian immigra- tion, and has encouraged settlement in the native States as much as possible. In the Straits the Indians find everything congenial to them. The character of the country does not differ greatly from that of their own, and they get on very well with the Malays. It is also particularly to be desired that the country should not become exclusively Chinese, as it undoubtedly would in time if we were to withdraw. It would be bad enough if the Chinamen were all from one province of the Celestial empire. But as a matter of fact they belong to a great variety of clans, and the enmity between the Cantonese and the Amoy I TRIBAL DISPUTES 373 men, the Macaos and the Fuhkinese, is quite incredible to those who have not witnessed it. ... It is there- fore obvious that it is not by any means desirable to let the Chinamen obtain too exclusive a possession of the peninsula." CHAPTER XVI " Thou who of Thy free grace didst build up this Brittanick Empire to a glorious and enviable Height, with all her Daughter Islands about Her, stay us in this Felicitie." MILTON. THE last three months before Sir Frederick Weld's departure were busily occupied by him in gathering together the strings of the many works in which he was engaged before handing them over to Mr. C. dementi Smith, upon whom, as Colonial Secretary, devolved the post of Acting Governor in his absence. His health at this time made him physically unfit for these, or any, exertions, and the result was that he more than once broke down under them. Early in January 1884, when he was slowly recovering from a severe attack of gout, his doctor having advised him to try change of air, he started for Pangkor with his daughter Maud and Mr. Hugh Clifford 1 a young cadet who had lately joined the service, and the eldest son of his old friend, Sir Henry Clifford. He was met there by Sir Hugh Low, who came by appoint- ment to discuss Siamese affairs with him, Dutch intrigues in that country having given cause for grave anxiety. Weld notes in his diary : " Low persuaded me that it was best both for my health and for the public service that I should take a few days of rest and fresh air on his hill. I agreed, and accordingly we steamed on the same day to Teluk Kertang, and after landing there drove on with Mr. Wynne to the Residency at Thaipeng. Felt very weak and tired after the journey. a Now Sir Hugh Clifford, K.C.M.G., Governor of the Gold Coast Colony. 374 THE HILL RESIDENCY 375 " January 4th. Still weak but better, but did not go out. Maud went for two and a half miles down the new railway line on a truck with Mr. Creagh. " 5 th. Better. We left Thaipeng and drove to 1 Lady Weld's ' rest-house. Met Hugh Clifford there, and Mr. Bozzolo. Maud x rode with Hugh on an elephant to see the men get some fish, with dynamite, for specimens for the museum. They secured a con- siderable number of various kinds some curious and interesting ones. Maud's elephant took fright at the noise of the explosion and bolted, and could not be stopped till he had crossed the stream a good bit farther down. Maud was very brave, and lay quite still on his back, and did what she was told. Luckily he ran away down the same jungle track that they had passed in coming up, which the driver had already cleared of overhanging branches, so she was none the worse." The next four or five days were spent at Sir Hugh's hill Residency, with great benefit to the Governor's health. He notes as follows : " January gih. Much better. At work all day at dispatches and other business. " loth. Started early to go down the hill and reached K. Kangsa at noon. Went to the opening of the State Council, at which H.H. the Regent of Perak made a really excellent impromptu speech, very kind and cordial ; it was well delivered, and with dignity. I wished every one good-bye, and received many friendly wishes for voyage and safe return. ' 1 1 th. Left early after long talk with Low. Arrived at Thaipeng at midday ; inspected Sikh recruits, the horses, cavalry, and men, afterwards had lance-drill at the barracks. Drove to Teluk Kertang ; wished good-bye to Creagh, Mr. Wynne, Mr. Welman Caulfield, etc., and embarked with Maud and little Rajah Chulan, ex-Sultan Abdullah's son, and started for Malacca and Singapore." On Weld's return he found Captain Jekyll, R.E., awaiting him, who had been sent by the Home Govern- ment to inspect and report on the fortifications of t. ten or eleven, 376 TYERSALL Singapore. This was a subject in which he was keenly interested, accordingly we find more than one allusion to it in his diary. The time for the Governor's departure was now drawing near, and we find mention of many farewell dinners, a last ball given at Govern- ment House at which he was unable to be present through ill-health, and a leave-taking of the Johore family of which he writes as follows : " March i$th. In the evening drove with Mena and Edie to Tyersall, found the Maharajah out, but were invited to go upstairs to look at the curios which he had brought back from his recent visit to Japan, and which are very fine and valuable. To my great surprise the Maharanee appeared and showed us over her rooms, which are filled with all sorts of beautiful objects. I had never seen her before ; she is half- Chinese and half-Malay, coarse-featured and square- built ; in fact, very homely in appearance, but pleas- ing in manner and quite unaffected. She had bare feet, and was dressed in a loose cape, which was secured under the chin with a single diamond." Dutch intrigues and conspiracies occupied his attention up to the moment before he sailed ; thus he notes in his diary : " March 2%th. My last act was to telegraph as well as write to the Dutch Governor-General protest- ing in the name of the British Government (having been authorised to do so) against the proposed murder of Rajah Imam Muda by Nja Hadgi. I had already taken every possible means to prevent it, and Mr. Maxwell, my envoy, had protested in my name. The Dutch Governor of Acheen had said that he dis- approved, but I have since heard that it was a very lame disapproval. I have now done all I can. " We embarked this afternoon at Tanjong Pagar, a guard of honour of the Inniskilling Fusiliers, and a great crowd of natives, all the officials and principal people, the Maharajah, Mr. and Mrs. C. C. Smith, and A.D.C.'s coming to see us off, and wish us a good HOMEWARD BOUND 377 journey and safe return. We sailed in the s.s. Laertes at 5.30." The sea voyage, which was not signalised by any event of special interest, lasted a little less than five weeks, and on the ist of May, Sir Frederick notes that when daylight came they found themselves off the Start. " We reached Portland about 10 a.m. Hum- phrey, Everard, and Freddy, with their uncle Edwin de Lisle, came off in a steamer to us a very happy meeting. At the pier we found Mary, who had just arrived by train from Chideock ; Charles, I am sorry to say, was not well enough to accompany her. Mrs. de Lisle arrived at 4, another happy meeting ; also Charlie and Henry Weld-Blundell from Lulworth. We sat down a party of eighteen at lunch. " May 2nd. Went to Lulworth. A large party. Charlie Weld-Blundell came to meet us at the station with his four-in-hand and drove us up to the Castle. In the afternoon we walked to the lake and back, and then drove to Wool and reached Weymouth that night, where we slept. A most delightful day. " May ^rd. The next day we went to Bridport, and drove from there to Chideock. A large crowd met us on the top of Chideock hill, where an arch had been put up. When we got to the village the men took the horses out of the carriage and dragged us up to the house. The village was decorated with evergreens, and flags flying in all directions. Every- body most cordial, and I think pleased to see us back." The summer and autumn that ensued were very happy ones for Sir Frederick Weld, and not less so for his wife and children. There was, in the first place, the great gap of fifteen years' absence to be bridged over, and to all that meant much. To the younger members of the family, England, home, had existed hitherto only in the imagination. To the elder ones these names were but as the " figments of 378 IMPERIAL DEFENCES a dream." How much, therefore, was there for each one to see, to do, and to experience 1 Old haunts to revisit, old friends to renew acquaintance with, fresh ones to make and all seen through the glamour of those magical words : Home and England. On the loth of June, Weld went up to London to dine with the Committee of the Royal Institute. The dinner was followed by a meeting, in which the Rt. Hon. W. E. Forster was in the chair, when, at the request of the secretary, Mr. Frederick Young, Weld read a paper on British Malaya. This paper an exceedingly interesting one con- cluded, a discussion followed in which Sir Hugh Low, Mr. Bulkeley Johnson, and Captain Colomb, R.E., took part. The point of most general interest taken up by the speakers was the defences of Singapore. Sir Frederick had remarked in his paper that they were receiving the attention of Government, to which Mr. Johnson answered : " That, sir, is a very con- venient phrase for Her Majesty's Government. The question has been nominally receiving attention for years and no result has come, and no result will come until the constituencies bring pressure to bear on the proper quarter. The late Lord Beaconsfield some years ago called attention to the chain of fortresses which unites the British Empire in the East with these islands. . . . But Aden is not capable of resisting modern artillery. Trincomalee and Colombo and Penang are open roadsteads. On the so-called batteries of Singapore and Hong Kong there is not mounted a single armour-piercing gun ! I hope public attention will be called to this question. I trust we shall never be involved in war, especially with a first-class naval power ; but if unhappily we are, I believe we should be found unprepared, and that on that eve of some calamitous disaster the nation will wake up with an exceeding bitter cry and BRITISH SEA-POWER 379 say that it has been betrayed by its politicians and deceived by its press." Captain Colomb, R.E., having been invited to speak on a subject in which he had expert knowledge, continued the discussion. He said : "I would draw attention to the figures Governor Weld has given as to the entrances and clearances at the single port of Singapore, which exceed 4,000,000 tons, being about equal to the Clyde. He also reminds us that Singapore is the centre of a sea area over which passes some 250 millions sterling in British goods in one year, being nearly equivalent to a quarter of the British annual sea trade, which is over 1000 million. He has also told us that there are some 300,000 tons of coal there. I could name many other places where we store British coal ; and unless that coal is secured, not merely for men-of-war but for the merchant fleet, by means of local defence, we must acquiesce at its being lost if not damaged in war. . . . I say without fear of contradiction, that if we con- tinue to neglect and to leave defenceless these keys of the Empire, we must expect to lose suddenly our empire of the sea. We happen for good or for evil to be possessed of the greatest centres of the trade of the world. When we are involved in war those ports will be ports of a belligerent, not of a neutral power, and our merchant vessels will find no place of safety in unprotected Singapore, but will merely be rushing together to meet one common destruction unless that place is defended." Captain Colomb concluded by an earnest entreaty to the party in power to establish Imperial defence on a surer basis. The autumn following on Sir Frederick Weld's return to England was spent either at his Dorset- shire home or in its neighbourhood, or at shooting parties with various friends and relations. The beginning of the year 1885 brought Weld a 380 'THE OLD ORDER CHANGETH ' great sorrow in the death, on the 28th of January, of Charles, his only surviving brother. As he died childless the property of Chideock devolved upon Sir Frederick. Shortly afterwards he was officially informed by the Colonial Office that he had been given two years' extension of his term of Governor- ship of the Straits Settlements, coupled with the intimation that he would be expected to return to Singapore in the October of the same year. The manor-house having been left to the widow for her life, he and his family remained on in the Warren, a small house in the village of Chideock which they had made their headquarters during their stay in England. 1 The following summer, Sir Frederick and Lady Weld rented a house in Bryanston Square, and they and their daughters took part in various gay doings during the London season. In June we find mention in his diary of an official announcement that the Queen had promoted him to the dignity of a Knight Grand Cross of the Order of St. Michael and St. George, and on the 4th of July he went down to Windsor to receive the insignia from the hands of Her Majesty. Perhaps few of the acquaintances made by Sir Frederick Weld during his stay in England on this occasion must have given him greater pleasure than that of the poet Tennyson. He mentions in his diary that he was asked by Dean Stanley, with whom Tennyson was staying, to meet him at the Westminster Deanery. " After luncheon, Lord Tennyson read me his ode on the death of the Duke of Wellington very impres- sively. He considers it, as I do, one of his finest works. I afterwards read it to him, and he said I read 1 Two years later, on Sir Frederick's retirement from active service, Mrs. Charles Weld made over the manor-house to him. LEAVE-TAKINGS 381 it better than ninety-nine men out of a hundred ; he pointed out one or two defects on minor points in the way I rendered it. He said of himself that he read it more " ponderously." The early part of the autumn was passed in leave- takings, one a very sad one, for they were leaving a much-loved daughter, Minnie, at the Convent of Newton Abbot where she had become a nun. His six sons also were left in England to continue their education, the four eldest at Stonyhurst, and the two younger ones at the Benedictine College of Fort Augustus. Other changes in the family circle were imminent, as Sir Frederick's second daughter, Cicely, was engaged to be married to Jasper Mayne of the Inniskillings. The last days of their stay in England were spent in Lancashire at Ince Blundell, and on loth October they embarked on the Titan, at Liverpool, for Singapore. The first few months of the Governor's return to Singapore were taken up with the usual routine work, varied by journeys to the native States. In a letter to an old friend, 1 dated the 22nd of February, after mentioning with pardonable pride that the result of the policy he had adopted with regard to the protected States was beginning to tell in the friendly attitude taken up by the rulers of the Independent provinces, showing itself in their desire to refer their disputes to him and ask his advice in their difficulties, he remarks : " I was staying with a chief some weeks ago in the interior, where Europeans had hardly ever penetrated before, and at night I said to him, ' My Sikhs are tired/ I had only half a dozen and one European with me, ' they have done a hard day's work, I will not keep 1 Mr. Scrope of Danby. 27 382 THE PACIFIC SQUADRON a sentry at my door. If you like you may put one of your own men on guard.' Of course he was much flattered. A day or two later I was sleeping in a native hut, and it had been prepared with hangings, embroidered cushions, and so forth for the occasion ; and when I went to bed they displayed the insignia of office, state umbrella, sword, and krisses against my door in token of homage. This was done in the centre of the Rembau district, which has been re- nowned for its turbulence ever since the days of the Portuguese, and till quite recently was not sup- posed to be safe for travellers unless armed and with a large escort. I found also the greatest apprecia- tion on the part of the people for what had been done for them. Lately, I was coming down from the mountain ranges through the woods on to the culti- vated rice-lands walking at the head of my party and the natives in the first village I reached had drawn up in two lines to salute and salaam me as I passed down the street ; when I had done so I shook hands with the man who appeared to be the village chief, whereupon the whole mob rushed to shake hands, quite pleased, apparently, to give expression to their friendly feelings. It was the same wher- ever we went ; the people coming to make us little presents of fruit, or curry prepared by their wives, and the chiefs offering goats, and on one or two occasions killing a buffalo to make a feast to celebrate the occasion. " Since I got back to Singapore we have had a visit from my old New Zealand friend, Admiral Vesey Hamilton, who commands the squadron. He had the Audacious as his flagship, that will neither steam nor sail, and with both combined can hardly do 7 knots an hour, and the Agamemnon, which won't steer ; and it is to these we have to trust to defend this part of the world. We have, however, just got a good cruiser, the Leander." A little later he writes to the same correspondent : " We have two Japanese ironclads of a very superior type, built at Newcastle, stopping here. They are boats of about 3000 tons, and can SIAMESE INTRIGUES 383 steam 18 or 19 knots, carry a great quantity of coal, and can keep up 10 knots with one engine (they have, I think, 4 engines) at a very small con- sumption of coal. They carry two 26-ton guns, and 8 or 10 other powerful broadside guns, very superior torpedo apparatus, an improved torpedo netting that can be lowered in a remarkably short time, iron tortoise-back decks, electric lights, and have officers trained in the British navy. Nothing in these parts could look at them. One of our naval men who went over them said either was worth all our fleet in these seas which is made up of the greatest rubbish put together, if it came to a fight. However we are not likely to have a row with Japan. We are getting on very fast with our fortifications ; and two officers, an engineer and an artillery man, sent out specially to report say that we are well ahead of any others both in quality of work and speed of execution, only they are slow in England about sending out the guns. The work has been carried out by our colonial engineer, an R.E., at the cost of the Colony, England supplying the guns only. The town itself is but ill-defended, and the Admiralty is very slow in making a move with regard to the big dock." Sir Frederick Weld's diary and letter-book are full of allusion in the spring and summer of the year 1886 to unrest on the Siamese frontier. The dis- turbances arising there were due to several causes ; one was the Siamese encroachments on the frontier of Upper Perak, another their interference with the trade and internal affairs of the native States of Raman and Trengganu, over which the kingdom of Siam claimed suzerainty. Weld in a dispatch to the Secretary of State for the Colonies explains his views on the question as follows : ' The territory in question belongs to Perak, and we have engaged by treaty to prevent the occup- ation of Perak territory by the Siamese. Hitherto, as the land encroached upon was in the possession of 384 A FORECAST the Rajah of Raman and Malay, we have treated it as a domestic quarrel between Malays and not inter- fered ; but Perak through her Regent and State Council is now appealing to us to maintain and uphold her rights. " It has been objected that if we do our duty to our friends and fulfil our obligations to our protected State of Perak we may lose, or fail to regain, in- fluence at the Court of Siam, and thus throw that country into the hands of the French. This would be to repeat what was done in the days of the East India Company, when they weakly I might almost say treacherously delivered our friend and ally the Sultan of Kedah into the hands of his enemy the King of Siam, allowing the Siamese to take the whole of his territory, except that which he had given us as the price of our friendship : a policy which has never been forgotten, and tells against us even to this day. I ask that we may not repeat that error with consequences which I fear might be even more far-reaching. It is quite possible that we may at some future time be pressed by Russia on one frontier and France on the other. We should then be in the position of the continental Powers, forced to be armed to the teeth in order to repel possible aggression. We are within measurable distance of such a condition of affairs now, and every weak step taken by us whereby we alienate or dis- courage our friends, and lead neutrals to undervalue our alliance, brings that step nearer. Three years ago I unofficially drew attention to the fact that frequent visits of French and Russian squadrons to Siam, and certain mysterious movements of Russian ships between Russia and British Burmah, pointed to a desire on the part of those nations to impress the Siamese with their power ; and I know that those demonstrations had a considerable effect on the public mind, coupled as they were with the absence of any considerable British force. Recent events have strengthened the conclusions I then came to, and I believe our true policy is to extend our influence over all the Malay States of the Peninsula up to British Burmah, so that in the event of Siam falling under French influence, we should be in SIAMESE POLITICS 385 the position of demonstrating that interference with the Malay States would be equivalent to a breach with us. " It may be said : admitting all this, would it not be safer to back up Siam ? To do so would be to bolster up the weakest, and, in its outlying Malay provinces at any rate, one of the most corrupt, tyrannical, and profligate governments in the world, a government which, in spite of some superficial varnish of civilisation at Bangkok and a well- meaning king, contains every element of disintegra- tion, and which would crumble at the touch of a strong hand, unless supported by a foreign Pow r er. Again, by yielding to the Siamese on a point in which we have right on our side, and weakly deserting our friends in order to curry favour with their oppressors, we should not only lose prestige with the Malays, but with the Siamese government as well. Nothing is more futile than to expect to gain the goodwill of a semi-civilised race by yielding to them in such a way as to forfeit their respect, and their confidence in your word and determination to uphold treaty engagements. The Malay States are looking on this boundary question as a test of our willingness and our power to protect them against Siamese aggres- sion. The Siamese will view it in much the same light, and they will unquestionably contrast any sign of surrender on our part with the forward and aggres- sive policy of other nations." A correspondence with Mr. Satow, 1 British Minis- ter at the Court of Siam, shows that Sir Frederick was pushing his views with our representative there as well as with the authorities at home. He writes on the i pth of May 1886 as follows : " I have this moment received your official letter of 1 3th May. Reading between the lines, I see in the answer of H.R.H. the Siamese Minister strong confirmation of my suspicion that he is trying to hoodwink us, and that Siamese troops are going to occupy the country whilst we are being amused 1 Afterwards Sir Ernest Satow, K.C.M.G. 386 FRONTIER ENCROACHMENTS with negotiations. I have not hitherto moved a man or a gun, even into our acknowledged territory, but he may easily render it necessary for us to do both. I do not object to his moving his men into Petani, and he cannot object to me moving mine up to our acknowledged boundary ; but if his men advance into the territory under dispute by one foot it will be at his own risk, and I shall then hold myself at liberty to move men and guns forward also into disputed territory. Do not think there is any in- tention on my part to do this unless I am ordered to do so by the Home Government, or unless sudden action on the part of the Siamese renders sudden action on my part imperative. You may give any assurances you like in accordance with what I have written ; I have no intention of moving my force even to our acknowledged frontier, unless Siamese action obliges me to do so, and I shall defer it as long as I can. The remark made by His Royal Highness that * if any signs of encroachment were observed, he could not guarantee that the people of Raman would not protect their frontier ' is dishonest and absurd. I have no complaint to make against the action of the people of Raman. They would welcome us with open arms, and if we advance H.R.H. would soon see whose side they would take. All that these poor people desire is to be relieved from Siamese tyranny. What I alluded to was the preparations being made for a body of troops, foreign to the district, who, it is said, are to be moved in to Upper Perak by the Siamese Governor of Senggora, to occupy our old forts in order to coerce the people, and oblige them to submit to Siamese oppression." Sir Frederick's next letter to Mr. Satow displays a much less belligerent spirit the Siamese having apparently climbed down. He writes on the 3Oth of May in the following terms : " Yours of the 25th May reached me yesterday. The intention, whatever it was, regarding movement of troops by the Siamese has, I believe, now been abandoned. A good number came with the Chokoon A PEACEFUL SETTLEMENT 387 of Senggora, and I hear they have been making in- quiries about the Perak force, and are much impressed by what they have learnt. They must also have cuiite satisfied themselves that we are not contemplat- ing any use of force unless they provoke it. The men who came with the Chokoon (who also brought a hundred elephants) returned with him after a friendly conference which was held by the Bangkok Com- missioner, the Rajah of Raman, the Chokoon, and Mr. Bozzolo, our Perak officer, who knows the people and country well and who went to meet them. The latter travelled quietly with only a few men and elephants, so this must have conveyed the impression to the Chokoon that he had no desire to bully ; it also implied confidence. The cases I complained of were gone into, and all concurred in admitting that they were perfectly clear. Apart from the Perak ques- tion, it is we who to a great extent keep the native States quiet ; for if a Malay wants to rise against his ruler he sends to me and asks if he may do so, and I say : No. I may tell you in strict confidence that the Rajah of Raman has asked our officer to take over his revenue farms ; moreover, the Siamese am- bassador in London asked us if we would administer some of the King of Siam's outlying Malay States and advance money to develop them. Now, if we did this by degrees, and on terms that would not affect the king's claims, or his suzerainty, would it not reconcile our rival interests, give peace to the country, put money into the pockets of both rajahs and king, in short, settle all difficulties, and keep out our rivals which last is my main object." In the June of 1886, Sir Frederick Weld, accom- panied by Sir Hugh Low, Mr. Rodger, 1 Acting Resident of Selangor, Mr. Martin Lister, Mr. Hugh Clifford, the latter acting as the Governor's interpreter, paid a visit in the Seabelle to the independent native States of Pahang, Trengganu, and Kelantan on the east coast of the Peninsula. This was the first journey of 1 Afterwards Sir John Rodger, K.C.M.G., Governor of the Gold Coast. He died in 1910. 388 A FAMILY WEDDING the kind undertaken by the Governor of the Straits for many years. On the 2nd of August of this year Sir Frederick Weld's second daughter, Cicely, was married in the Catholic Cathedral, Singapore, to Lieut. Jasper Mayne of the Inniskilling Fusiliers. In his journal, after recording the event, he notes : " We had early Mass at Government House, and all went to Communion. The whole affair went off splendidly. The Cathedral was crowded, but all so orderly and devotional. The Bishop gave the Pope's special blessing afterwards most impressively. There were about 250 guests at the wedding breakfast." The Ma50ies, after a week's honeymoon at a bungalow which had been lent to them in the country, started for a journey to Japan. They returned six weeks later to Singapore, when Mayne took up the duties of A.D.C. to Sir Frederick Weld. There were many changes in the Governor's staff about this time. Mr. Dickson 1 took Sir Cecil C. Smith's place as colonial secretary, the latter having been sent to Ceylon, and the Hon. Gerard Wallop became private secretary. The end of the month of August found the Welds on a visit to Sir Hugh and Lady Low at Thaipeng. We read in the diary : " August 26th. Landed in the Mena (Sir Hugh's steam launch) 'at 9 a.m. Went by rail to Thaipeng. Mena and Edie went on to Thaipeng with Lady Low, Chrissy and I stayed at the Creaghs. Inspected the fort and magazine and hospital. The Sikhs did some very fine brigade drill. " 27th. Up before daylight and had a sham fight near the rifle range. Chrissy and I went with the troops over very rough ground, swamps, and brooks, Sir Hugh with us. It was a very pretty 1 Afterwards Sir Frederick Dickson, K.C.M.G. THE PERAK VALLEY 389 sight and exceedingly well done. I addressed the troops afterwards on the parade ground when it was over." A few days later Sir Frederick rode up the country to inspect some new roads that had been made up the valley, between Blanja and Batu Gajah in Perak territory. He also inspected mines in the same neigh- bourhood one belonging to a French Company, ' de Morgan ' on the road to Gopeng. On 7th September he writes in his diary : " Left Ipoh, crossed the Kinta and Perak rivers and rode up the dividing range between the valleys (of the same name) by a capital bridle road to a stopping place where Mr. Rathbone had put up a nice temporary shelter ; beautiful mountain scenery, and fine forests : height about 1500 feet above sea-level. " %th. Rode on this morning to the top of the pass ; fine forest and rock scenery. About 1800 feet at the summit. Rode down into the Perak valley through steep dells, a clear mountain torrent breaking into numerous waterfalls by the side of the road. Rained heavily when we reached the valley ; we arrived at the Residency drenched to the skin." A few days later the Welds left Thaipeng in the steam launch and reached the Government yacht Seabelle, which was at anchor outside the bar, and steamed to the Bindings. On the i4th they started for Selangor, where a great event no less than the opening of the new railway was impending. Weld notes : " Got under way at about 6 a.m., arrived at Klang Straits, and anchored at 5 in the afternoon. Mr. Rodger, acting Resident of Selangor, with Lister, Magistrate of Ulu-Selangor, anchored by us in the State steamer Abdul Samat, and came on board and dined. (< 1 5 th. We left the Seabelle at 6 a.m., went up the river in the Abdul Samat, and landed at Klang. I found the town much improved. We took the Sultan 390 SELANGOR AFFAIRS on board here with his suite all in great state. He was splendidly got up in Malay fashion, and was accompanied by chiefs carrying the Royal insignia. We landed at Bukit Kuda and got into the railway, reaching K. Lumpor in an hour and a half. We had to go rather slowly in places, the line being new, and not all metalled yet. The distance is 20 miles. Great preparations had been made at K. Lumpor, and addresses were read from Malay and Chinese. " 1 6th. Business all the morning. In the even- ing I invested the Sultan, by Her Majesty's command, with the K.C.M.G., a rather elaborate ceremonial. The troops were drawn up, and a salute fired ; a great crowd of spectators filling the hall which was very handsomely decorated. H.H. was evidently much gratified by the honours paid to him. When the ceremony was over, the Malay chiefs of Royal blood were brought up and presented to me. The Sultan and I sat on two chairs of state ; Mena and Chrissy and Edie sat near us." A letter written by the Governor soon after his return to Singapore gives proof of the care he exer- cised in choosing his instruments for the peaceful subjugation of the Peninsula. It is addressed to Mr. Rodger, the Acting Resident of Selangor, and after expressing his regrets at asking a sacrifice of him, he says : " I want you to let me have Lister. 1 If I had a man in the Straits service who would undertake this job I would not ask for him, but I find that it is too much to expect from young officers of the Cadet S.S. class to manage affairs such as those of Sri Menanti and Johol. They have neither the experience nor do they carry weight enough, and no amount of cramming, or success at com- petitive examinations, will teach a man how to manage natives and win their confidence. Matters 1 These letters have a special interest, referring as they do to a young man of singular promise, Hon. Martin Lister, who died at an early age at Aden on his way home, invalided ; a victim of tropical climates and devotion to the service of his country. NEGRI ZEMBILAN 391 in those States require firm and gentle handling. Action has been taken there without my sanction, in fact, in a manner opposed to my policy ; some chiefs that I wished to conciliate have been alienated, and an impression has gone abroad that we are back- ing, right or wrong, the Yam Tuan. As to the people, when I was there they appeared friendly and well- disposed, like all the Malays in the inland States. I think Datoh Beginda Tona Mas, the Johol Prime Minister, a capital man to work with, and he is by far the most influential man in the country. The Yam Tuan is full of good professions and possibly intentions, but he is flighty and unreliable. He has no following to speak of. I fear Lister would not be so comfortable as he is at Ulu Selangor, but I might possibly be able to let him go back before the end of the year. He would go to Sri Menanti as a Commissioner, to advise and organise, as well as to act as Magistrate and Collector. I have no time to write to Lister, so I have put everything into this letter, which I will ask you to forward to him." A month later this letter was followed up by one to Mr. Lister, in which the Governor writes : ' I have read your letter carefully, and with very great interest. Your estimate of Tungku Antar is correct add flighty. I approve of your going to Rembau, and have made a minute to that effect. . . . As to Johol's relations with the Yam Tuan, that is very delicate ground, and you will have to get the con- fidence of both the Yam Tuan and Datoh Beginda Mas first. I think Johol is perhaps the stronger ; it is premature to judge, and events must develop themselves. The Yam Tuan was given his present position by the Home Government after the war. When he opposed us and was driven out, I think the proper course would have been to have relied on the Penghulus, and not to have re-established any Yam Tuan, and to have placed an officer in the district ; now we are bound to him ; but we are also bound to respect and preserve the liberties of the States, of which Johol is first in rank. You will remark one thing in Rembau, and in all these States, 392 WILDERNESS COTTAGE and that is their extreme sensitiveness about "Con- stitutional " questions and rights. That feeling, based though it may be on self-interest, is worthy of respect, and should be turned to good and not discouraged. I see you are taking the right line and grasping the situation. I like a full journal giving information on all points, if you have time to write it. I read every journal of every Resident or District Officer in the Peninsula that reaches me, so don't be afraid of boring me by long letters." In December, Sir Frederick Weld returned to Thaipeng and spent three weeks at " Wilderness Cottage," a bungalow on the top of one of the high hills in that neighbourhood. This spot, which was about 4400 feet above the sea, must have been an ideal one for what in these days would be called a rest-cure. The Governor's time, when not taken up with the correspondence and business which followed him there, was spent in laying out the grounds and gardening. He mentions the following as his occupation of one day : " December gth. Up before breakfast, reading and working in the garden. Sowed some yellow primrose seeds. After lunch I planted the first oats that I imagine have ever been sown in the Peninsula. At this height they ought to do well." On the last day of his stay there he writes : " 1 8th. We leave the hill this afternoon.. My stay here has done me a wonderful amount of good. Most of the time we have been here it has been like English April weather, without the harsh winds. We had fires every evening, and I have had one to go to bed with, not that the cold made it necessary, but because it looked bright and cheery. I took a last look at my oats and wheat, which appear very promising." A severe attack of ophthalmia interfered with Sir Frederick Weld's plans for some weeks in the early spring of the year 1887, and condemned him to a dark PAHANG 393 room and an invalid's life. He was beginning to recover in the month of April, when Mr. Hugh Clifford, whom he had dispatched overland to Pahang in the middle of January, returned by sea to Singapore, bearing a letter from the Sultan asking that a treaty might be concluded with him whereby a European officer would be permanently stationed at his court to assist him in the administration of his country. He announces the fact to the Finance Committee in the following memo. : " The successful issue of Mr. Clifford's mission to Pahang opens up a State richer and larger than Perak, possessing great mineral and agricultural wealth, and offering a great field for commercial enterprise. At present there is no settled administration in Pahang ; and as European and other miners are flocking into the country troubles have arisen, and, in at least one case, a collision has been narrowly averted. The Rajah, with whom I have been long in communica- tion, has at last become alive to the gravity of the situation, and has applied to me for assistance, asking for a treaty like that with Johor, and a British Agent. This, with the recent arrangements made in regard to Sri Menanti, Rembau, and Jelebu, has consolidated British influence over the whole Peninsula east and west, south of the States in which Siam claims a right of interference." Sir Frederick follows up this announcement with suggestions in considerable detail of roads which might be made to open up the rich mining districts of Ulu (or upper) Pahang so as to connect them with Perak and Selangor. He continues : " It is of great importance to have good overland communication with Pahang, as the east coast is closed by the monsoon for six months in the year ; moreover, all our experience in the native States goes to prove that population is attracted, and agricultural and mining enterprise encouraged, directly roads are made, and security given for life and property. To do this a 394 A SUCCESSFUL POLICY large expenditure will be required ; more will be needed should H.H. the Rajah of Pahang ask the Agent's advice with regard to police, collection of revenue, its distribution, land and mining administra- tion, and other branches of the service. Mr. Clifford, pending the appointment of a permanent Agent, will be sent back to Pahang. Two Malay chiefs belonging to the native States will be attached to Mr. Clifford." Sir Frederick Weld then enters into the question of the sums required for carrying out these projects, and submits them to the consideration of the Finance Committee. In a letter to a friend he enlarges on the satisfaction which this event has caused him : " I have lately scored a great success as a result of my policy in this country ; the rich and powerful State of Pahang on the east coast has asked for a treaty and a government agent. This is the seventh State that has voluntarily put itself under British protection, and asked me to undertake its affairs. All the southern part of the Peninsula is now under British influence, and one may add open to com- merce, peace, and civilisation. The task of introduc- ing these elements into Pahang, which is utterly disorganised, is one that will require much tact, prudence, and firmness. Young Clifford was the instrument of bringing this about, and he has shown all these qualities, and great physical powers of endurance in arduous and even to some extent dangerous journeys, often living on native food for weeks together. He is now stationed as my emissary in the palace of the Rajah of Pahang, a mild-mannered and amiable old gentleman, who having got into serious trouble with his own people, who are in a state of anarchy, and with the Europeans to whom he foolishly gave concessions of tin and gold mines, is asking our help to get him out of his difficulties. His only idea of government is to order some one to be fined or assassinated, and of pleasure to smoke opium, shoot a little, and amuse himself with his numerous wives. The people are terribly oppressed, and look to us to save them ; they are being plundered, and , A MISSION FROM THE F.O. 395 their wives and daughters are at the mercy of their chiefs. And yet the position of the chiefs is so precarious that even they welcome our coming. I cannot help regretting that I shall have left the country before my plans for its reorganisation can be fully carried out. It will take time, as we shall have to gain the confidence of the Rajah and of his chiefs, and make them see where their interest lies. I am going shortly to Borneo on a mission from the P.O., to settle some disputes in that quarter. I expect my instructions next week. It is in reference to difficulties which have risen between the Sultan of Brunei and Rajah Brooke of Sarawak, and the N. Borneo Company. Also the little colony of Labuan is mixed up in it. I shall probably offend all these parties but one, and the chances are that I shall satisfy none of them.' 1 The expedition foreshadowed in Sir Frederick Weld's letter started on the i3th of May for Borneo. The Governor took with him Mr. Paul, Resident of Sungei Ujong, to interpret and conduct negotiations, Mr. Kynnersley, first magistrate of Penang, and his private secretary, Hon. Gerard Wallop. He sailed in the Government yacht Seabelle, and on his arrival at Labuan on the i/th was joined by H.M. s.s. the Wanderer and Espoir. The following two days were taken up with " parleys " with Governor Leys and Rajah Brooke the former being Governor of Labuan. On the 20th of May, Sir Frederick started for Brunei. He gives the following account of his journey there in his diary : ' Under way at 4 or 5 a.m. The Espoir being slower, the Seabelle preceded us, and we found her at anchor off the Maura under the lee of Sapo Point. We led over the bar and up the intricate channel, having barely water, though we were in light trim, as it was not high tide by nearly an hour. The channel is winding and narrow. The Brunei River, or inlet, is easier navigation. It is about half a mile 396 BRUNEI wide ; green hills rise on either side, partly wooded and partly cultivated." Sir Frederick describes the town of Brunei in a letter to Lady Weld, dated 2$th May : " The river opens out into a kind of lake as one approaches Brunei. The houses are all raised high on piles, so that when the tide is up the town looks as if it was sitting on the water. There are said to be about 15,000 inhabitants. We are anchored in what would be called the ' Grand Canal ' if we were at Venice, or if we were on land the High Street ; the Espoir near us, and the Sultan's 1st ana, 1 which is a very poor affair, opposite. The town is very interesting, the streets all water-ways ; the market is held on boats on the water. All the land visible are two or three small islets a few yards square, in which there are half a dozen palms or coco-nut trees. The children seem extraordinarily numerous, and almost live in the water, swimming and paddling about in little canoes ; a baby of about two came up to the ship sitting fravely in a tiny canoe, and paddled by a small rother very little bigger than himself. They come in dozens to examine the figure-head, which seems to amuse them very much, as they go into fits of laughter over it. They appear to be a very cheerful people; they sing a good deal in their boats. I like to hear it, as it reminds me of the Maori songs, which these resemble somewhat. It is certainly a very picturesque town like a Venice on stilts. The first morning after our arrival I visited the Sultan in state, self and suite in full uniform. The Sultan though very un- well came to the door to meet me, accompanied by sword and kris bearers, also the betel-nut gold box bearer. He gave us tea and monster cigarettes, the tobacco enclosed in a reed or palm leaf rather neat and clean it looked, and wasn't half bad to smoke. The interview went off very well, and he seemed pleased to hear that I was going to take time, and do nothing in a hurry. Next day the Sultan returned my visit, and two of the principal magnates at the court called also. Paul's time has been fully 1 Palace. THE REBELS 397 employed since we arrived in interviewing people and taking down evidence ; my occupation will come later. After two days spent in this way I started with Paul at 5.30 a.m. to meet the ' rebels ' up the Limbang river at a place called Donan. We passed what the Sultan called a fort, the said fort con- sisting of a shed stuck up on poles in the middle of the river, surrounded with a weak fence, like stakes for fishing nets. The river banks are covered with rich vegetation and thickets of bamboo. We passed the Sultan's fleet of boats, or prahus, all of which are thatched over, and protected, with their crews, by bamboo shielding which is pierced to enable the men to fire at the enemy without exposing themselves. The ships carried about fifty guns, and were moored under a bank. I would have undertaken, had I com- manded the rebels, to have set fire to and routed the whole lot ; there was not even a proper look-out kept. We were on board a large steam launch lent us by the N. Borneo Co., as the Seabelle and Espoir could not go up the river, and when we got opposite the rebel outpost we took some of them on with us. At i p.m. we arrived at Donan, where the rebels had been summoned to meet us. It was the queerest sight imaginable. The men, about a hundred and fifty in number, were all armed to the teeth, with muskets, rifles, spears, shields, and krises of every imaginable shape some of the latter very beautiful. No two were dressed alike ; the only recognised national distinction being an absence of trousers. One man wore a flat square tail made of deer's skin, others had long feathers, and wonderful head-gears ; skins and tags were very much the fashion, and some of the costumes were very warlike and impressive. They did not exhibit any of the 108 human heads that they are said to have taken from the Sultan's Eepple. On being invited to come on board (there eing no proper shelter from the scorching midday sun ashore), they responded so heartily to the invita- tion that there was hardly standing room left. We managed just to keep a small space clear where I reclined in a (deck) chair of state. They seemed hugely pleased at being allowed to air their grievances, and asked at once for a white man to govern them 28 398 A CONFERENCE any white man. If the Queen would send one, all would be well ; and if the Governor of Singapore would come and see how things were getting on now and then, he might bring all the ships and men-of-war he liked, but they would never allow the smallest boat belong- ing to the Sultan to come up the river. Rajah Brooke would do just as well, he might govern them ; he was a white man, and had nothing to do with the Sultan. As for the Sultan, never would they submit to him again ; he had oppressed them beyond endur- ance, and if his men left their boats and went into the jungle they would kill them all. " This was the substance of their talk. They were quite amused when I said the Sultan wanted compensation for the lives and property of his sub- jects which they had made away with ; in fact they laughed pleasantly, as if quite tickled with the idea, and evidently expected me to see it, too, in the light of a joke. They then said that the Sultan had (figura- tively speaking) made the water in the river shallow by his exactions choking it with their goods and their dead bodies. After this they consulted me about a murder, which they said had been committed by a party of ' wild men ' in the interior of the island. This was getting on to very delicate ground. " When the conference was over we started once more down the river, and after some delay, owing to the intricate nature of the channel, reached the Sea- belle at i a.m. On the 25th (yesterday) we did business, and this morning came to Muara on Brunei Bay. We go next to Labuan, then on the 28th to Padas, where there are some land claims to be decided, after that we return to Brunei. " May 27th, Muara Bay. I shall finish my letter now, as I shall have no time at Labuan. We are taking in coal here. We reached this place yesterday, but as it was a very wet evening I did not go ashore. I was up at 4.30 a.m. and spent the morning ex- amining the coal mines. I walked through a tunnel 2000 feet long of solid coal ; there must have been millions of tons of coal in that one seam. We went afterwards about three miles into the country to examine another coal mine which is of equal extent. It was very hot when we got back to the ship, but as L ABU AN 399 I wore a helmet and goggles my eyes are none the worse. " May loth. At sea amongst the islands in the passage north of Borneo. " I wrote to you last from Labuan. We left it at 3.30 and made the fastest passage on record to Kudat in Maruda Bay, passing the north cape of Borneo about sunrise and anchoring at Kudat about 8 a.m. Kudat is a pretty spot, with a Residency bungalow on a promontory in a beautiful situation. The rest of the houses consist of a collector's and doctor's bungalow, a hospital and police quarters, and a row of attap and tiled houses. The bay is a very fine one. The Resident, or what we should call district officer, is away ; a Dutch Java planter and his wife, who are establishing a tobacco factory here, were staying at the Residency. They came on board, and seemed rather pleasant people. After lunch we went up the river on a shooting expedition in boats towed by one small steam launch ; we saw a number of long-nosed monkeys. The ground where we were supposed to shoot was hilly, and covered with long grass and scrub. I got a long quick shot at a deer running away from me over the brow of a hill, distant about 200 yards. I thought I hit him, and he stopped galloping ; but it is hard to kill a beast dead when he is going away from you, so he managed to get on through the bushes ; and though we were twice quite close to him he crawled away, and having, of course, no dog we never got him. I was very sorry for the poor beast. He was nearly black, and so big when we first saw him we took him for one of the native cattle. We got back to the Seabelle at 8 p.m. and were under way early this morning. At sunrise we had a grand view of Kina Balu, which is 13,700 feet high. ' June loth. Seabelle off Labuan. " We arrived here from Padas (and Brunei) this morning and anchored at sunrise. I went ashore and up to Government House, and asked the Governor and Mrs. Leys to lunch on board. Then I took Lt. Dudgeon, who is a very nice lad, with me, and we had a good walk round by Sir Hugh Low's old place, which is exceedingly pretty, with some fine flower- 400 A TREATY WITH BRUNEI ing bushes and trees. I last wrote from Sandakan, and I think you will get that letter at the same time as this one. We had a very pleasant voyage back, landing at the northernmost cape of Borneo, and looking in at the settlement at Gaza Bay. The scenery there is very grand ; it is only about twenty- five miles distant from the great mountain Kina Balu. On 3rd June we looked in at Labuan for a few hours, and I got your letter and a telegram from Lord Salisbury. The latter a satisfactory one for it told me to carry out a policy that I had already taken on myself to decide upon with regard to a somewhat doubtful point. On the 8th we anchored once more on our old ground in the ' High Street ' of Brunei. The Court here has been a hotbed of intrigues, and I have had difficulties of all sorts to contend with. On my arrival I got a letter from the Sultan which boded ill for the success of my mission. I wrote a very stiff answer, insisting on a definite reply to my demands, and threatening to leave next day if I did not get it. This produced a satisfactory letter from the Sultan, promising an answer on the following day. The day came, but no answer (I heard after- wards the delay was from no fault of his), so I dropped down the river and anchored a mile below the town, partly on account of the horrible stench from the low tides, and partly to show him that I was pre- pared to carry out my threat. The next day the letter I was waiting for arrived, so we steamed back again at high tide to the town, and I went to wish the Sultan good-bye. He was very gracious, and I presented him at parting with a diamond ring. I also gave another, a smaller one, to his Prime Minister. The upshot of our negotiations is that he refuses to cede land, as was proposed by the Home Government, either to Rajah Brooke or anybody else. This point I did not press, as I saw no pressure short of using actual force would have availed ; also I think he was quite within his rights. He asks for a treaty, and the protection of the British Govern- ment. He has consented to hand over the manage- ment of Limbang to the Resident, and he has at once recalled his fleet from Limbang. I have settled also the Padas claim to everybody's satisfaction. The SARAWAK 401 only person who I fear will not be pleased is the Rajah of Sarawak, but he was quite prepared for a decision adverse to his claims. I am going to Sara- wak on leaving this and shall be back at Singapore on the 20th or 2ist of the month." An entry in Sir Frederick Weld's diary a few days before (3Oth May) notes the following : " I had a long talk last night with Rajah Brooke, and showed him my letters to the Sultan. He wants Limbang and Labuan ; but he saw the force of my arguments, and is quite reasonable about the whole question, which time, possibly, will solve in a direction favourable to his wishes." l On leaving Brunei the Seabelle put in at Muara to coal, then after calling at Padas and Labuan, where Sir Frederick Weld landed and took leave of Governor Leys and Mrs. Leys, steered her course to Sarawak. The diary mentions the arrival as follows : " June 1 2th. Made the Sarawak light about 4 p.m., or rather the headland on which it stands. Anchored inside the heads about 6 p.m. A beautiful sunset ; very fine effects of light and shade on the distant mountains ; the river is broad, with nipah palms, like many Malay rivers. " June i$th. Got under way about 9 a.m. and steamed up the river to Kuching, the capital. Much struck with our first view of the town. Was met on landing by the Rajah and by the Ranee on the door- step of their house, which is a very nice roomy one. * i^th. Made a tour of inspection with R. Brooke of dispensary, prison, government offices, court-house (with a fine collection of Lelas 2 ), and museum. I visited the convent school with Paul in the afternoon, and on our return painted scenes for theatricals . Called on the Bishop with R. Brooke, and saw his school and hospital. " it>th. Went to Mission very early for Mass. 1 The annexation of Limbang by the Rajah of Sarawak took place in 1890. 2 Malayan swivel-guns. 402 JUBILEE DAY Painted scenes all the morning. In the afternoon the Rajah took me to the Fort, where there was a re- view of his troops, and gun practice in the battery. Very smart and well done. Men principally Dyaks. In the evening we had a play, Box and Cox, admir- ably acted by the Rajah's three sons, followed by Tableaux Vivants and supper. Got to bed very late. ' 1 5 th. Visited Malay school with the Ranee; the schoolmaster had composed a song, set to music, in my honour. A long drive afterwards with the Rajah and Ranee. " 1 6th. A delightful walk in the grounds, which are exceedingly pretty and well laid out, with the Rajah and Ranee. After dinner I took my leave and embarked for Singapore. My visit here was a very pleasant one, nothing could have been kinder than the Brookes. " Queen Victoria's jubilee was kept at Singapore in a manner worthy of the occasion and of the loyalty of the Colony and its Governor. The event was celebrated on the 2 7th of June, and is recorded thus in Weld's diary. " June 27 th. Jubilee Day. Parade of Royal Navy, f Marines, Artillery, and Lancashire Regiment; total of 717 officers and men. The statue of Sir Stamford Raffles was unveiled ; a very fine one by Woolner. Assisted afterwards at High Mass at the Cathedral, and walked in procession with the Bishop, after laying foundation-stone of Cathedral extension. The Bishop preached a very loyal and impressive sermon (or address) afterwards. * Loyal addresses of every kind from the planters, the Chinese, and from various races and peoples poured in during the after- noon, and 2800 children were entertained at a tea and cake feast. In the evening, Government House and grounds were illuminated, and the day ended with a great display of fireworks/' In July, Sir Frederick Weld made an expedition in the Government yacht to Pahang with a view of con- cluding the treaty which had been asked for by its Sultan some months previously. After many dis- FAREWELLS 403 cussions between the Sultan and the Governor (with Mr. Hugh Clifford acting as intermediary), in which the former stood out for impossible conditions, negotiations were broken off, and Sir Frederick Weld continued his journey to Treng- ganu. The impasse was only a temporary one, and on October 8th, 1887, a fortnight before Sir Frederick Weld left the Malay States, a treaty entirely favourable both to British interests and to those of civilisation and commerce was concluded with Pahang. A similar treaty, negotiated by Mr. Martin Lister, with the rulers of the little States of Negri Sembilan was secured to his great satis- faction, before he relinquished the Governorship of the Straits Settlements. In a last journey to Kuala Lumpor he records in his journal the improvement visible everywhere in roads and buildings, as well as in the aspect of the people. From K. Lumpor he drove to Seramban, Sunjei Ujong, and on the i2th of September he cut the first sod of the railway " an epoch," he remarks in his diary, " in the history of the State." Many of his old friends amongst the chiefs of the various States came to visit him here, to bid him fare- well; and on his return to Singapore again we read of more visits and of more farewells. The keynote of all the regrets at the Governor's approaching departure could not have been better struck than it was in a speech by Sir Frederick Dick- son, at the entertainment given by the Council and Judges to him a few days before he sailed for England. ' There was not one there present," he said, " who did not feel that in losing His Excellency he was losing a friend. There was not one there who did not feel that he was losing a bright example of English honour, that he was losing a high-minded English gentleman ; one who never shrank from responsibility, and never 404 FEDERATION OF MALAY STATES deserted his subordinates ; who never took to himself credit for anything any one else had done ; who was unmoved by obloquy, and fearless in the performance of his duty." On i /th October, amidst a great concourse of people, salutes, and cheering, Sir Frederick and Lady Weld and their family embarked in the s.s. Orestes for England. Sir Frederick was succeeded in the Governorship of Singapore by his former colonial secretary, Sir Cecil dementi Smith. The work of breaking in the native States of the Malay Peninsula to civilisation, and to a higher position in the scale of humanity and of civic life, which was begun by Sir Andrew Clark in 1873, carried on by Sir Frederick Weld from the year 1 880 to 1887, was perfected on the lines laid down by him by his successors. It culminated in 1896. In July of that year a Federation of all the Malay States was effected ; this was placed under the supreme charge of a Resident General who was responsible to the High Commissioner, an office which was invested in the Governor of the Straits Settlements. CHAPTER XVII " Catholicism and patriotism complete each other ; both present the individual with an absolutely certain foundation for action ; both command imperatively action in the name of intangible, irrational principles, laid down a priori and inde- pendently of all individual verification." CHATTERTON-HILL, The Nineteenth Century and After, July 1913. THE public life of Sir Frederick Weld ended with the last chapter ; another life now began for him. It was, as far as we can glean from the somewhat meagre record left of it, a peaceful and a happy one. He had earned his rest, and there is no reason to suppose that he did not enjoy it, for it was shared with a charming and devoted wife, and a singularly united family. To assume that he did not at times miss the more stirring incidents, the large interests and keenly-enjoyed adventures which had hitherto marked every stage of his career, would be to say that he was more than human. No doubt he did miss them, but like a wise man he bowed to the inevit- able, and fell back on the consolations which were still his to be thankful for and to enjoy. His journal, though it was now kept very irregularly, with long pauses between the entries, shows that he and his wife and family settled down to a quiet country life at Chideock, which was not without a charm for all. The present manor-house of Chideock has no pretensions of any kind. It was built, like so many semi-modern English country-houses, on a site not far removed from that of an older fortified building, of 405 406 CHIDEOCK which, in this case, some grass-grown remains are preserved, giving a faint touch of antiquity to the modern house, such as the smell of lavender gives to the empty chest to one of an imaginative tempera- ment. The Chidioc of old days is set down in Domesday Book as a King's manor, and was owned for several centuries by the descendants of Gervase de Brideport. From them it passed into the posses- sion of the De Mandevilles, and later on, in the time of Henry in., into that of a family who took their name of de Chideocke from their heritage. The last of the race was Sir John de Chideocke. He left two daughters co-heiresses, Margaret and Katherine : the elder married William, second Lord Stourton ; the younger, Katherine, 1 Sir John Arundell of Wardour. The property of Chideock fell to the share of the latter, and it was in the possession of her descendant Henry, Lord Arundell, when Thomas Weld of Lul- worth bought it for his third son in the beginning of the nineteenth century. By a singular coincidence, Sir Frederick Weld was directly descended through his mother from both the co-heiresses of Sir John de Chideocke. The sense of past times the smell of lavender clings even more strongly to the quiet little village of Chideock, set in hawthorns and apple orchards, than it does to the modern manor-house. For, three centuries ago, it was the scene of the hurried flight of Charles n., who, accompanied by his faithful fol- lowers Lord Wilmot and Colonel Wyndham, after narrowly escaping capture at Charnworth, dashed through it on his flight northwards. There are other legendary spots in this old-time village and country-side ; a path hemmed in by laurels and rhododendrons, by which, in the days of the penal laws, the score or two who were still faithful 1 Her settlement was drawn up on 5th March 1451. SOUVENIRS 407 to the " old religion " found their way from the village to the priest's house, where Mass (at great risk to life and liberty) was still occasionally celebrated. Besides these memories of the past, Sir Frederick Weld was surrounded at Chideock, both inside the house and out of it, by souvenirs, relics, gathered from all parts of the world. Amongst these were skins of the apteryx, and arms of all kinds from New Zealand, garments made of mulberry bark from the Pitcairn Island, the "execution" kris from New Guinea, and other murderous weapons presented to him by the Sultan of Brunei ; ancient match- locks, guns from Java, a stuffed " tree-tiger " from the Binding Islands, and various trophies of the chase, amongst others the horns of the Bos Gaurus. The mild Dorsetshire climate enabled him to experiment with success at growing the New Zealand Tarata, and the Cryptomeria Japonica, and the Cupressus Macrocarpa ; and many [subtropical plants flourished there as if native to the soil. Magnolias and myrtles were as much at home at Chideock as on the Riviera. Interests and occupations of many kinds grew up around Sir Frederick Weld. He became a member of the County Council, a magistrate, and the presi- dent of the Bridport Conservative Club. His eldest son had decided on the Bar as a profession, and we read, in the diary, of his having gone up to London to " eat his dinners " at the Temple. Frederick, his second son, had passed into the Civil Service, and returned, with Mr. Lister, to Singapore in the spring of 1888. His eldest daughter was engaged to be married in the same year to Captain Edward Druitt, R.E. ; the event was celebrated in the private chapel of Chideock in February 1889. Almost the last public occasion at which Weld took a prominent part, was one which he must have hailed as full of promise for the future, as it was in 408 ANTICIPATIONS furtherance of an object for which he had never ceased working in the past. The occasion was an important meeting of some of the most influential supporters of Imperial Federa- tion, with the President, Lord Rosebery, in the chair, to consider what steps could be taken with a view of promoting closer relations between the Colonies and the Mother Country. The year 1889 was marked by a very considerable advance in public opinion on the subject of Imperial Federation, both abroad and at home. A speech of Principal Grant's at Kingston, in Canada (as reported in the Toronto Daily Mail), had made a great impression in the Dominion. His theme was the attainment of " political manhood " by Canadians, and the question was how it was to be attained. Another question was : " What is the cure for our political ailments ? " The answer in both cases was the same " Full citizenship ; partnership with the Old Land ; a share in its responsibilities, risks, and dangers." He ended by saying that it would take time to develop the Federation of the Empire, and with that end in view he advised the cultivation of friendship and trade with Australia, New Zealand, West Indies and England. The great object of all Canadians should be the preservation and strengthen- ing of the bonds of unity now existing between Great Britain and her Colonies. Equally striking was a speech made by Mr. James Bull, a delegate from the N. Staffordshire Chamber, at the London Chamber of Commerce, which was given as follows in the Journal of the Imperial Federa- tion League. Mr. Bull began by observing that there were dangerous separatist tendencies observable in colonial politics. " This direction of events," Mr. Bull continued, " could be changed by drawing together the bonds THE IMPERIAL LEAGUE 409 of union which united the Mother Country to the Colonies, by enlisting them in the ranks of defence, by giving them a voice in Imperial deliberations, and conceding them advantages over the rest of the uni- verse in their commercial dealings with this country." In these words we read the substance or at least foreshadowing of Mr. Chamberlain's celebrated pro- nouncement delivered fifteen years later. Imperialism was undoubtedly in the air, and Lord Rosebery, when addressing the meeting which was held at his house in Charles Street on May 29th, 1889, to which we have alluded, chimed in with the views and aspirations of all present when he said that he looked " to the absolute predominance of the Anglo-Saxon race throughout the world, which could only be secured on the lines which this League had always followed." He was succeeded by Lord Carnarvon, who re- marked that three principal notes had been touched upon : first, the question of joint military defence ; secondly, that of trade influence ; and, thirdly, of " how far it is possible to draw our relations closer with our kinsmen across the sea. n With regard to the first point he observed : " If there are any shortcomings in this matter it is rather, I am afraid, in England that those short- comings will be found than it is in many of our Colonies. Further, I said there was trade influence. There are many modes, and many degrees and proportions, in which Federation may be accomplished, but perhaps trade is the most potent ; for, after all, trade means this it is that by which men live, and therefore is associ- ated with their nearest and dearest interests. I do not hesitate for myself to say that I regret that in this vast self-contained Empire, where all things abound, we have never yet been able to agree upon any common fiscal system of trade. . . . Practically, the different parts of this Empire, for trade purposes, are nearly as much divided from each other as if they 410 FEDERATION were strangers and aliens. What is the result ? It is that the foreigner steps in and takes what he can, to the loss of the English manufacturer and workman." Lord Carnarvon was followed by Sir John Colomb, who explained the objects of the League " as not being so much to formulate a scheme for solving the difficulties that are ahead of us, as to spread that wide knowledge which is essential to their ultimate and true solution. We are all one, here, in our object and aim. We know of no party politics and no factions, and therefore we can go through the length and breadth of the land, and ask those who now believe in the abstract doctrine of Imperial Federation to do some- thing more to join the League, and to increase its power and influence as an educating process in this country, and so we shall be doing that work which we have set ourselves to do, and some of us may live to see it carried out." The President then called upon Sir Frederick Weld to move the next resolution. Sir Frederick Weld then moved : " That this meeting regards with great satisfaction the practical advance which has been made during the past year towards the Federation of the Empire, by ( i ) the prompt action of the Legislatures of the majority of the Australian Colonies giving effect to the agreement arrived at by the Conference of 1 887 to provide for the joint defence of the Empire's sea-borne commerce in the South Pacific ; (2) the important proposals made by the Dominion of Canada to the Australasian Colonies for a Conference upon the development of their trade relations and the advancement of their mutual in- terests ; and it congratulates the League at large upon the remarkable growth of interest in the future relations of the countries of the Empire which has resulted from its exertions." He began by saying that he could have wished that it had fallen to some one to speak on this resolution ADVANCE AUSTRALIA 411 who, by having taken an active part in the proceedings of the League at home, would have been more capable of doing so than one whose life had been chiefly spent abroad ; at the same time, he felt there was a certain fitness that a colonist like himself should speak on this question, whose life he could certainly say in his case had been not only an aspiration, but a working aspiration, for the unity of the Empire. Like many others who had gone out almost as boys to the Colonies, he had always felt he was helping in a humble way to build up countries which would be inseparably united to England, and whose union with her would serve to increase her influence, her power, and her commerce. As regards this League, of which he had been a member from its very com- mencement, he expressed himself as perfectly satisfied with the success it had attained. It could not be expected to attain to success at once. Many diffi- culties, obstacles of all kinds, ignorance on both sides, especially, stood in the way. But now there was the noble example of Australia sending troops to the Soudan, " a great, practical step, emphasising a desire for union with this country, and proving that ' blood is thicker than water.' ' Another great step forward had been made in the direction of defence and commerce. The great Canadian lines of railway have joined, and steam- boats connect Australia with Canada ; the hand of friendship has been held out, and all that each wants to know is to know each other better." He ended by saying : ' I entirely agree with what has been said, that we are not going to effect Federation by a system, one springing, like Minerva, fully armed out of the brain of an Abbe Si eyes or some other student. . . . The British Constitution is not built up on paper, but by this want and that measure being brought 412 PALESTINE forward until all is blended into a harmonious whole. I remember an anecdote that was told of Charles James Fox. After the peace of Amiens he went to Paris, where Napoleon made much of him, and on one occasion when they were con- versing in his study Napoleon, pointing to a map which hung on the wall, said jeeringly : ' There is your little Island.' Fox answered : ' Yes, that is our little Island, and in that little Island we were born, and in it all Englishmen would like to die, but our life embraces the world.' That is the feeling I should like to see in all that we are working for England. I hope the lives of Englishmen, wherever the flag floats, will still continue to cover the world, and that we shall by the unity of the Empire build up a power such as will ensure its welfare and peace. Providence offers it to us, and the question for us to answer is : Shall we be worthy of the grace that is offered us, or shall we refuse it to our ruin, and, as I believe, to the great injury of the world ? " The resolution was seconded by Mr. H. Arnold- Forster. His speech was followed by one from Lord Charles Beresford and Mr. H. Lawson, M.P., after which the proceedings terminated. In April 1890, Sir Frederick Weld and his two sons, Humphrey and Joseph, left England on a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. This pilgrimage, which was both a Catholic and a National one, was interesting from more than one point of view being the first British pilgrimage on a large scale which had left these shores for Palestine since the Reformation. It was headed by Bishops Clifford and Mostyn and other distinguished prelates, and organised by the Duke of Norfolk, and numbered over two hundred souls. The pilgrims reached Jaffa on the i8th of April, and traversed the distance which separates the seaport from Jerusalem the following day. When they came in sight of the holy city they dismounted and, kneeling on the ground, recited (as how many of THE QUEEN'S MESSAGE 413 their predecessors have done before them) the 1 2 2nd Psalm : Lcetatus sum in his quce dicta sunt mihi, in domum Domini ibimus. Then passing down the " Sorrowful Way " they visited in turn the spots which tradition has associated with the Passion and death of Christ, and as they lay down to rest at night (to quote Sir Frederick's subsequent account of it), " under the hospitable roof of the Casa Nuova, we must all have felt that a great grace had been vouch- safed to us, to fructify to the end we may hope of our lives. An interesting function signalised our stay at Jerusalem, which was the pontifical High Mass sung on St. George's Day, when we sang the Domine salvam fac Reginam nostram Victoriam with great enthusiasm. No Latin pilgrimage had ever before enjoyed this privilege, and we owed it to the almost unhoped-for courtesy of the Greeks, who have a great devotion to St. George, and whose consent was necessary for the celebration." As the Duke of Norfolk wrote to Sir Henry Ponsonby: " It is the first time that such an event has taken place in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and as I am sure that it will be pleasing to the Queen to hear of such heartfelt prayers being offered up for her in this most Holy Sanctuary by her subjects, I write to tell you of the fact, and beg you to lay this letter before Her Majesty, with my humble duty." The Queen sent a gracious message in return, saying that she was much gratified by the account given her of the British pilgrimage to the Holy Land, and desiring Sir Henry Ponsonby to ask the Duke to thank the members of the pilgrimage for their kind and loyal wishes in her behalf. After spending a week in Jerusalem the pilgrims visited Mount Carmel, Nazareth, and Thabor, and the shores of Tiberias, and embarked on their return journey on the 8th of May. 29 414 FINANCIAL SCHEMES Sir Frederick Weld's thoughts and interests were a good deal occupied during the summer and autumn after his return from Palestine with schemes for the development of the protected native States of the Malay Peninsula. He had ever been a sanguine believer in the great possibilities of that country, and now that his hands were no longer tied by his official position he found leisure which he was free to use to attend to those and kindred subjects. Early in the year 1891 a proposal was made to him to go out to the Malay States in the interests of the Pahang Exploration and Development Company, of which he was a Director, to examine the means that could be taken to open out the vast mineral and lumber wealth in the interior of the country. Nothing could have been more congenial to his tastes than such an expedition. Accordingly, in spite of his health having given for some little time previously cause for anxiety, he started off in the middle of February for Singapore. He arrived there on the 5th of March. He had benefited by the sea journey, and was apparently in the best of health, and delighted to see so many familiar faces. To more than one old friend he said he felt he was like a schoolboy coming back to his old haunts. Unfortunately this happy state of things did not last. He started off for Pahang, and before he had been exposed long to the heat and the unhealthy air of the jungle he was taken ill with a very severe attack of gastric fever, followed by jaundice. He was brought back in an extremely critical state of health to Singapore, where under the hospitable roof of his old friends, Justice Goldney and his wife, he rallied sufficiently to undertake (under medical advice) the journey home. His son Frederick, who was in the Perak Civil Service, accompanied him as far as Aden, and some kind friends, Mr. and Mrs. Neaves, nursed him with A HAPPY DEATH 415 unremitting attention in his passage through the Red Sea, and never left him till he reached London, where he was anxiously awaited by Lady Weld. He rallied slightly on his return to England ; but from the beginning of his illness there was no doubt on the part of those who had attended him of the gravity of the disease from which he suffered, or its speedy termination. After spending some weeks in London in order to consult his own doctor and specialists called in by him, he was taken down to Chideock. It was the month of June. For six weeks more he lingered on ; everything that was possible was done to alleviate his sufferings and bring consolation to his heart by his devoted wife, who never left his side, and shared with no one the privilege of nursing him to the end. Those who have followed him so far through this narrative will not require to be told that the faith and confidence in God which marked every action of his life stood him in good stead in these its con- cluding trials. The consolation the Stoic is said to find in suppression of out\vard demonstration of woe and perhaps inward self-pity whilst bowing to the decrees of Fate, Sir Frederick Weld found from a deeper source : from a loving obedience to the Divine Will. The means of grace which the Catholic Church places at the disposal of her children were his during every stage of his last illness ; and the Blessed Sacrament reserved in the private chapel, the frequent Communion, and, finally, the Sacrament of Extreme Unction and the Viaticum, soothed his last moments. His children surrounded him ; to each he had a special message of loving counsel and farewell, and when the moment for the supreme parting came it found him ready to depart. He died on the 2Oth of July 1891, and was buried on the 25th in the family graveyard of Chideock, amidst a great concourse of 4i 6 AN APPRECIATION sorrowing relations and neighbours. His widow survived him twelve years. She continued for some time to live at Chideock ; eventually, her daughters having found homes of their own three were married, 1 and three had become nuns she dedicated the last years of her life to God and became an Oblate of the Order of St. Benedict at Fort Augustus, where her fourth daughter was Prioress. She died a saintly death, profoundly mourned by her children, on April 9th, 1903. It has been chiefly as a public man a man of action that we have endeavoured to make Frederick Aloysius Weld known to our readers ; but there was also another side to his life, one known to the inner circle of his friends only, of which something must be said before we conclude. It needs but a few words, for his was no complex character. Its beauty lay in its simplicity, and its leading feature might be condensed into one word : Loyalty, to his God and his religion, to all he loved, to his country and his sovereign. So strong was this innate instinct that, when death was approaching, and his voice and memory almost failing him he told his wife to take a pencil and write his last thoughts to his children, his message for his eldest son was : " ' Let all the ends thou aim'st at be thy country's, Thy God's, and ' you know the rest." This deep-seated loyalty made him proof against temptation to swerve from principles which he held on good and sufficient grounds, even when such adherence clashed with his personal interest and ambitions. Thus he twice threatened to resign when the Ministry to which he belonged in \New Zealand 1 Maud was married on ist February 1893 to Philip Radcliffe.R.E., third son of Sir Joseph and Lady Radcliffeof Rudding Park, Yorkshire. A WELL-FILLED LIFE 417 proposed bringing forward a Divorce Bill similar to the one passed in the Mother Country, and on both occasions his influence caused it to be temporarily shelved. His religion may be said to have been the paramount motive-power of his life ; but so far from being bitter or prejudiced in its exercise, he had the happy faculty of making it attractive, even in the sight of those who were ignorant of, or indifferent to, its dogmas. On one occasion only, on his first appointment as Governor of Western Australia, he ran counter to the views of his parish priest by ask- ing the Anglican Bishop of Perth to say grace at Government House. Both took their story to Rome, the too-zealous priest to denounce, and the Governor to justify his action. The answer was entirely favourable to Weld, and Pope Pius ix. shortly after- wards conferred upon him the dignity of knighthood to the Order of St. Pius in acknowledgment of his services to religion. A dispute of this, or of any kind, was not only exceptional in Sir Frederick W T eld's life, but utterly foreign to his nature. His house was ever open to all servants of his Divine Master ; and as in his early days there \vere none who shared his confidence more than Father Freudenfeldt, so in his later days, in Tasmania and afterwards in the Straits Settlements, he found an intimate friend in the learned and holy Father Julian Tennyson Wood. The practices of re- ligion with him were no empty observances. Mass, the Sacraments, and the offices of the Church \vere the great realities of his existence, to be duly pre- pared for, devoutly assisted at, and used, as they are intended to be, for the building up of the spiritual life. His innate loyalty showed itself amongst other ways in the touching remembrance which he pre- served all though his busy and chequered career of those he had lost in death. As year by year the 41 8 A GOVERNOR'S DUTY same dates recurred, they are noted thus in his diary : " My dear Father's anniversary," or, " My dear Mother's " or that of some other friend or relation, followed by the remark (when circum- stances made it possible) : " Mass was said for him (or her), and Mena and I went to Holy Communion." The anniversary of the little girl whom the Welds had lost in New Zealand, and who, though she had only lived six months, had been deeply mourned by them, was never passed without this loving com- memoration. His dependence on prayer has been already noticed in the course of this Life ; it was un- failing, and no occasion but served to bring it out. He had a particular devotion to the Holy Ghost, and he was accustomed to say that he never sat down to write upon any subject of importance with- out invoking the <( Spirit of Truth." Equally striking was his love for the poor, and it might be said of him without exaggeration that his purse was ever open to those in distress. Touching testimony was borne after his death to his great and manifold charities. Priests from Western Australia and Tasmania wrote to his widow r giving her her truest consolation by telling of the memory he had left behind in some of the remotest spots of those Colonies by the example of his piety and his generosity to the poor. It was a source of no surprise to Sir Frederick Weld's friends that he died a comparatively poor man. Neither he nor his wife were of a saving dis- position. Not only was he open-handed by instinct, but he held very decided views on a Governor's duty of spending the emoluments of office in doing good and dispensing hospitality; and, in the case of his Tasmanian Governorship, the pay being quite in- sufficient for the position he had to keep up, he had to supplement it largely from the somewhat pre- MESSAGES OF SYMPATHY 419 carious returns made to him from his New Zealand property. His affection for his children, profound and tender as it was, never made him deviate from this course of action ; and on one occasion when a near relation remonstrated with him for not exerting himself more to provide for his younger children, his answer was that he considered his first duty was to God and his country, and that being the case he had perfect confidence in his heavenly Father's care of them. Before he died, Weld had the consolation of seeing his elder sons embarked on honourable professions, with every prospect of carving out careers for them- selves in the same way as their father had done before them. His four eldest daughters were also happily settled in life. If Sir Frederick Weld left his children small store of worldly possessions, on the other hand they inherited from him an untarnished name and an example such as few could boast of. In the chorus of love and praise paid to his memory after death, both of a public and private nature, there was not one jarring note. A very touching letter from Lady Gore Browne to Lady Weld mentions that when she and her husband went to New Zealand she had heard so much in praise of Sir Frederick that she was prepared for disappointment, but that before she had known him long she found he was in truth the chevalier sans peur et sans reproche he had been made out to be. It would be tedious to go through the many tributes to his personal charm and worth which were addressed to his widow and family after his death, though doubtless each carried its message of sympathy and comfort to the house of mourning. The public expression of respect for his memory in all the Colonies with which he was connected was equally striking. In Perth and in the Straits Settlements as well as in New Zealand, the flags were hoisted half-mast high, and the minutes 420 NEW ZEALAND of the Councils recorded the high estimation in which his services were held in those countries. One of the most touching tributes to his memory was that given in the General Assembly in New Zealand by Sir George Grey, who said of him that, " having lived on terms of great friendship with him, I could truly say that he was not only able, but also noble in action, wise in counsel, a true friend, the best of husbands and fathers, in fact, distinguished in every relation in life. I have known him in many capacities, and have never seen him fail to distinguish himself in whatever position of life he was placed, though he was often placed in positions of extreme difficulty." Similar remarks of no less weight were made by his friends in the Legislative Council. The Hon. Mr. Bowen said that " Sir Frederick Weld's public life is very well known to all of us, and most of us re- member the sympathy which his chivalrous conduct of public affairs elicited even from his opponents. I will not add to what others have said on the subject except that though he was separated for many years, and by his various duties, from the land of his early efforts and affections, he never lost touch with New Zealand. The affection between Sir Frederick Weld and this colony has been shown, I think, in this last day or two to be reciprocal, and it is gratifying to see that both branches of the Legislature have thought it right to pay a tribute to the memory of a man of whom New Zealand is justly proud. Especially is it gratifying in these days, when success and ability irrespective of character are too much worshipped, that a man like Sir Frederick Weld is remembered with so much honour. And, sir, his character was, as my honourable friend said just now, such that no one ever could have suspected him of being con- nected with any unworthy cause. He was a man A POET'S VOICE 421 of whom it might truly be said, ' He reverenced his conscience as his king.' I do not believe it was possible for him to be swayed by an ignoble motive, far less to be capable of any ignoble action. And from his youth from his high-minded, chivalrous youth and throughout his active and public-spirited manhood, down to his too early death, he was honoured and trusted by every one who came into relation with him, and he was loved by all who knew him well." It is of such, of men like Frederick Weld, who have devoted their lives to the service of their country, and served her in a spirit of purest patriotism, that a great poet, Francis Thompson, wrote : "They passed, they passed, but cannot pass away, For England feels them in her blood like wine." INDEX ABDULLAH, Sultan, 269-70, 276. Aborigines, W. Australian, 164-5 ; mission to, 170-4 ; difficulties with, 207-10 ; success with, 213-14 ; Tasmanian, 234-6 ; Malayan, 278, 301, 332. Adelaide, 152, 199, 229. Alarm, The, 4, 53, 77, 87. Albany, W.A., 153-4, 2OI 22 7 229. Albuquerque, 265, 279. Anson, General, 272, 305. Arthur, Colonel, 234-6. Artillery, Launceston, 252, 258, 261. Arundell, Lord, 127, 150, 406. Atkinson, Major, 163. Auckland, N.Z., 46, 121, 123, 125, 132, 137- Augusta, W.A., 203. Australia, 108, no^, 162, 165, 188, 201, 237-8, 250, 255, 258-9, 408, 410-11. Balclutha, breakdown of, 152-3. Bangkok, 367, 385-7. Barlee, 156, 175, 178, 190. Barrington, Dr., 288-9. Bass, 233. Batu, S.S., 287, 289. Beaconsneld, Earl of, 263, 335. Bendahara of Pahang, 302, 317-21, 394, 403. Benedictines. See N. Norcia. Benkulen, 268. Birch, 270, 301-2. Birnam River, S.S., 287, 292, 370. Blackwood district, W.A., 179. Blanja, S.S., 301, 352, 389. Bongsu, Ungku, 334, 355. Borneo, 395, 402. Bo wen, Sir George, 224. Bozzolo, Mr., 375, 387. Brandy Creek, 238 ; re-christened, 263. Brooke, Rajah, 395, 400-2. Brunei, 395, 400, 407. Bukit Putus, S.S., 333. Bull, Mr. James, 408. Bunbury, Major, 36 ; town of, 179, 229. Cameron, General Sir Donald, K.C.B., 116, 121, 128-9. Campbell Town, 239. Canada, 408-11. Canterbury Association, 86 ; dis- trict of, 119. Capitan China, 289, 295, 300, 333. Card well, Mr., 128, 142. Carnarvon, Earl of, K.G., 223, 226, 409. Champion Bay, W.A., 163, 178-9, 185, 213, 216. Chideock, i, 25, 82, 89, 377, 380, 405-7, 415. Chinese population in Malay States, 330 ; intrigues, 348 ; smuggling conspiracy, 356-7 ; disputes, 372-3. Chokoon of Senggora, 386-7. Chute, General, 137, 145. Clarence, H.R.H. The Duke of, Clarke, 4 Sir Andrew, K.C.M.G., 269-70, 404. Clio, H.M.S., 208-9. Clifford, Sir Charles, Bart., 12, 19, 21, 30, 44, 48-9, 53-6i, 72-3, 80, 86-7, 90, 217-21. Clifford, General Sir Henry, V.C., K.C.B., 6, 8, n, 150, 354, 365. Clifford of Chudleigh, Lord, I, 150, 357- Clifford, Sir Hugh, K.C.M.G., r 374, 387, 393-4- Cloudy Bay, N.Z., 38, 73. Colomb, Sir John, K.C.B., 379, 410. Cook, Captain, 33, 70, 233. Cook's Straits, 19, 41, 113, 115, 200. Creagh, Mr., 375, 388. Crimean War, 93, 255. 423 424 INDEX Dale, the explorer, 163. Damansara, S.S., 291. Dampier, George, 162, 294. Darling Range, W.A., 154, 184, 216. de Lisle Phillipps, Mr., 104, 153. de Lisle, Frank, 152, 209. de Lisle, Edwin, M.P., 320-1, 331. Derby, Earl of, K.G., 249, 356, 365- Derwent (Tasmania), 233, 239, 242, 245. Dillon-Bell, Sir Francis, K.C.M.G., 19, 91, 113, 143- Dindings, S.S., 292-3, 300, 389. Donan, 397. Dongarra, W.A., 176, 216. Douglas, Captain, 284, 286-7, 28 9- Dris, H.H. Sultan, G.C.M.G., 314, 357-8, 364- Durian Sabatang, S.S., 302-3, 364. East India Co., 266, 268. Egmont, Mt., N.Z., 17, 114. Emancipation, Catholic, 4. Eucla, Port, 187. Exeter Hall, 34, 53, 210. Federation, Imperial, 258-9, 408- 12. Ferguson, Sir James, K.C.M.G., 152-3, 199, 221. Fitzgerald, James, C.M.G., 91-2, 108, 118, 125-7. Fitzherbert, Mr., 125, 138, 222. Fitzroy, Captain, R.N., 18, 42-3, 53, 64. Flaxbourne, 72-3, 77-9, 119. Forrest, Sir John.K.C.M.G., 186-8. Fox, Sir W., K.C.M.G., 46, 88, 108, 112-13, 120-1, 127-8. Franklin, Sir John, K.C.M.G., 236. Fremantle, 155, 186, 188, 190, 197. Freudenfeldt, Fr., S.J., 6-10, 417. Friburg, University of, 6-10. George of Wales, H.R.H. Prince, 338-43. Geraldine, W.A., 106, 178-9, 184. Geraldton, W.A., 176-8, 215-6, 226. Godley, John Robert, 12, 38, 86. Gore Browne, Sir Thomas, K.C.M.G., 47, 92, 106-7, 112. Gore Browne, Lady, 419. Gorst, Mr., 115. Granville, Earl of, K.G., 147, 150, 156. Grey, Sir George, K.C.M.G., 47, 64-6, 69, 83-6, 90, 109, 112-17, 121-33, 136, 150, 420. Hau Hau fanaticism, 120-1. Heki, 43, 63. Hobart-town, 239, 241-2, 255, 257, 261. Hobson, Captain, 35-6. Howick, Lord, 41-2. Hutt Valley Campaign, 43, 64-6, no. Irving, Mr., 274-5, 329. Irwin, W.A., 175-6. Ipoh, S.S., 389. Jelabu, S.S., 364, 366, 368, 393. Jerningham, Mr. Frederick, 12, M, 19, 49- Johol, S.S., 317, 366, 390-1. Johore, Maharajah (subsequently Sultan of), 264, 268, 316, 318- 22. Jugra, S.S., 285. Kalgoorlie, 232. Kamunting, S.S., 295, 297. Kangsa, Kuala, S.S., 295, 297-8, 301-3, 351. Kedah, Rajah of, 266, 302, 306-8. Kilauea (Sandwich Islands), 100-1. Kimberley, Earl of, K.G., 201, 213, 223, 328. Kingi, Wirimu, 107, in. Kinta, S.S., 349-5. 352, 389. Klang, S.S., 285-6, 290-1, 389. Klings, 277, 311. Kohimarama Conference, 36. Kota Star, S.S., 306-8 ; K. Tem- pan, 349. Krian River, S.S., 310, 345, 347. Kuran River, S.S., 346. Larut, S.S., 294, 370. Lasak, S.S., 330-1. Linggi River, S.S., 333, 335, 367. Lister, Hon. Martin, 283, 333~4 387, 390-1, 403. Low, Sir Hugh, K.C.M.G., 294, 304, 311, 313, 329, 331-2, 346, 349, 367, 394, 378, 388, 399. Lukut, S.S., 284, 294. Lulworth Castle, i, 2, 6, 13, 87, 377- INDEX 425 Lumpur, Kuala, S.S., 285, 290, 43 Lye ?o. 390, ll, Sir Charles, 100. MacCallum, Sir Henry, G.C.M.G., 321, 336-8, 347. Mackinnon, Dr., 291, 300, 304. Mahdi, Rajah, 278, 285, 292, 319-20. Makitupah, 95. Malacca, 265-7, 2 7> 2 7 2 2 74~8o, 324, 336-7, 369-7- Malay States, 265-71 ; race, 277, 281, 288-9 *> deputation, 290, 295 ; people, 299, 306, 312-6 ; Land Acts, 322-5 ; labour difficulty, 329-30 ; origin of Malay race, 232 ; improved relations with, 365-8 ; progress of, 369-73 ; relations with Siam, 384-7 ; Federation, 404. Maori ferrymen, 22 ; race, 34-5 ; opinions, 36-7 ; attack on surveyors, 38 ; defeat of settlers, 39-40 ; passion for war, 43-7 ; characteristics, 51-61 ; dis- putes with, 62-8 ; experiences with, 94-9 ; impatience of British rule, 105-8 ; attack on Taranaki, in ; war, 115-21, 128-30 ; last native war, 145 50- Maude, Colonel, 194. Mauna Loa, ascent of, 100-3. Militia, N.Z., 63, 66, no-n, 129- 30, 148-9. Missionaries, 33, 41, 61. Monsell, Rt. Hon. J., M.P., i, 143, 153, 196, 200. Negri Zembilan, 270, 317, 403. Nelson, N.Z., 18-9. Newcastle, Duke of, 88, 113, 117. New Norcia, W.A., 165, 171-4, 213-4, 228. New Zealand Co., 13, 18, 33-4, 37-8, 41-2, 88. New Zealand, early experiences in, 17-21 ; colonisation of, 32- 47 ; sheep-farming in, 4862 ; adventures in, 65-8 ; boating in, 77-8 ; sport in, 79-81 ; explorations in, 86-7 ; hot springs of, 94-9 ; critical times for, 105-9 ; financial and other difficulties in, 118-23 I adoption of self-reliant policy in, 125-33 ; resume of political situation in, 139-43 ; renewal of war in, 145-50 ; Weld's reception in, 220-3 ; tribute to him, 419-21. Ngatiporo, 45, 65. Ngatiruani tribe, 114-25. Norfolk, Duke of, E.M., 4 I2 ~3- K.G., Ohinemutu, N.Z., 95-6. Ophir, Mount, S.S., 275 ; ascent of, 337-8. Pahang, State of, 282, 317, 393-4, 403- Pakeha, 17, 106, 114. Parris, Mr., 107, 137. Petre, Lord, 34 ; Hon. Henry, 12, 19, 21, 77. Pratt, General, in. Province Wellesley, 269, 270, 306, 323. 369, 37 1 - Raffles, Sir Stamford, K.C.M.G., 266-9 ; unveiling statue of, 402. Raman, Rajah of, 384, 386-7. Ranghiaiata, 38-41, 42-5, 64. Rauperha, 38-41, 42-5, 53, 64-5. Rembau, S.S., 272, 277, 357-63, 367, 382, 391. Robinson, Sir Hercules, K.C.M.G., 219. Robinson, Sir William, K.C.M.G., 164-5, 191, 295, 313, 316. Robinson, G. A., 235-6. Roto Iti, N.Z., 95. Sakeis, S.S., 287, 301, 332. Salmon - fishing in Tasmania, 245-7- Salvado, Bishop. See N. Norcia. Scrope of Danby, Mr., 6, n, 87-8, 91, 381. Selangor, 270, 282, 284 ; Sultan of, 285 ; River, 292, 357, 362, 368, 389-90. Sewell, Mr., 91, 125. Siam, 265 ; plenipotentiary of, 272 ; kingdom of, 308-9 ; royalties, 338-42 ; intrigues, 383-7. Sikhs, 293, 295-6, 375, 381, 388. Singapore, 263-4, 3 12 , 320, 323 ; census of, 330, 335, 370 ; fortifications of, 376, 378, 381, 388, 402-4, 414. 426 INDEX Sri Menanti, 317, 357, 362-3, 366-7, 390, 393- Stafford, Mr., K.C.M.G. (after- wards Sir W.), 109, 112-3, 127, 133, 135-8, 145, 149. Stonyhurst College, i, 4, 7, 8 ; sheep-station, N.Z., 99. Straits Settlements, 263, 269-71 ; future policy considered, 312-7 ; land tenure in, 322-8 ; progress of, 365-72 ; federation of States under the Governor of, 404. Sunjei Ujong, 270-4, 335, 357~ 8 , 363, 367-8. Swettenham, Sir Frank, K.C.M.G., 273, 275, 278-80, 283, 286-7, 291, 293, 301-2, 308-9, 311, 329, 357-8- Tamihana (W. Thompson), 47, 104, in, 120. Tangi, The, 57. Taranaki, N.Z., 106-8, in, 114, 128, 130. Tasmania, Weld's appointment to Governorship of, 2234 > discoverers of, 233 ; troubles in, 234-6 ; constitution given to, 237-8 ; progress of, 238-9 ; sport in, 245-7 ; defence of, 250-9 ; Weld's journeys over, 261 ; leave-takings of, 263. Tataraimaka, N.Z., 114-5. Te Keepa (Major Kemp), 149. Te Kooti, 148, 150. Te Koro, 54-60. Thaipeng, S.S., 294-6, 347, 374~5, 388, 392. Thompson, Mr., 18, 38-40. Titokowaru, 146, 148-9. Tunnard, Captain, A.D.C., 338, 346, 357- Ugbrooke, 2, 4, 6, 13, 87, 354. Uriwera tribe, 148-9. Vavasour, Mr. (afterwards Sir William), 12, 19, 29, 48-59, 80. Victoria, Queen, 36, 262, 290, 362, 367, 378, 38o, 390, 402, 4 X 3- Victoria Plains, W.A., 163, 213, 216, 226. Waikato tribe, 45-6, 108, 114-5, I2O, 129, 148-9. Wairarapa, N.Z., 21, 24, 28, 31, 52, 62, 64, 66, 68, 71, 74, 108. Wairau, massacre of, 18, 37, 39, 40, 41, 43, 1 06 ; the plains of, 70-1, 73, 87, 90. Waitangi, treaty of, 35-7. Waitara River, in ; district of, 115-6. Wakefield, E. Gibbon, 38, 92, 159, 160. Wakefield, Captain, R.N., 18, 38, 40, 71. Ware-homa, N.Z., 54, 59-60. Ware-kaka, N.Z., 23-31, 48-9, 61, 69, 71-2, 74. Weld, Sir Frederick, G.C.M.G., childhood, 1-5 ; college life, 5-7 ; university experiences, 8-10 ; choice of profession, n- 13 ; starts for N. Zealand, 14- 17; joins friends on his arrival and starts for pioneer sheep- station, 20-2 ; life at War- kaka, 23-31; pastoral life varied by explorations, 48-65 ; adventures with natives, 65-9 ; starts new station, Flaxbourne, 71-3 ; his views on politics, 82-6 ; explorations, 86-7 ; return to England, 87 ; death of his father, 88 ; return to N.Z., 89 ; is invited to join Government, 91 ; ministry resigns, 92 ; he starts for expedition to hot springs and interior of N. Island, 94-9 ; makes the ascent of the Mauna Loa, 100-3 ; marries, 104 ; returns to N.Z., 104 ; is re- elected for Wairau and ap- pointed Minister for Native Affairs, 109-12 ; sent for by the Governor and invited to form ministry, 123; he agrees, after formulating conditions, 123-5 ; successful inaugura- tion of self-reliant policy, 127 30 ; he resigns after adverse vote on financial question, I 3 2 ~3 > breaks down in health, 136 ; summing up of career in N.Z., 139-43 ; returns to Eng- land, 144 ; he is appointed to Governorship of W. Australia, 147 ; dinner given to him, 150 ; starts for W.A., 152 ; voyage and arrival at Perth, 152-6 ; impressions of the country, 156-8 ; he visits the N.E. districts, 166-78 ; INDEX 427 speech at Bunbury, 179-83 ; describes Colony to Colonial Secretary, 183-6 ; dispatches Mr. J. Forrest to explore Southern Coast, 186-8 ; passes Bill giving Representative Government to W.A., 188-91 ; passes Education Bill, 196-9 ; visits S.E. of Colony, 201-3, and N.W., 203-8 ; he stands up for the native race, 20911 ; makes a tour in the rural districts W. of Champion Bay, 213-7 ; business takes him to N.Z., 217-22 ; reception there, 222-3 ; he is appointed to Tasmania, 223 ; summing up of his work in W.A., 224- 32 ; arrival in Tasmania, 239 ; anxiety about his wife, 241-5 ; he is made C.M.G. ; fishing experiences, 245-7 ; encourage- ment of the Volunteer move- ment, 249-50 ; Memo, to ministers on defences of the island, 251 ; speech to Volun- teer corps, 252-7 ; travels in Tasmania, 261 ; appoint- ment to Governorship of the Straits Settlements, arrives at Singapore, 263 ; the task which awaited him there, 271 ; he is made K.C.M.G., 272 ; visit of Prince Henry of Prussia, 272-3 ; starts on tour of inspection in the Pluto, 274 ; Malacca, 274- 80 ; Residency Seremban, 282- 84 ; Selangor, 284-92 ; the Bindings, 293 ; Perak, 294 ; Residency Thaipeng, 294-300 ; Durian Sabatang, 302-3 ; Panang, 305-6 ; Kedah, 306-9 ; a dispatch on policy to be pursued in the peninsula, 312- 18 ; visit to Johore, 320-2 ; a paper on the land-question, 322 - 8 ; encouragement of Indian immigration, 329-31 ; a journey up the Plus, 331-2 ; a conference with the chiefs of Rembau, 333-4 ; ascent of Mt. Ophir, 336-8 ; visit of the Duke of Clarence and Prince George of Wales to Government House, 339-43 ; more journeys to Perak, 3467 ; deputation from Chinese, 348-9 ; a shoot- ing expedition, 349-53 ; he summons durbar to depose the Chief of Rembau, 357-9 ; presides at it, 360-3 ; good results of policy in native States, 363-4 ; progress of S.S., 3 6 5-73 J ne starts for England on sick leave, 376 ; arrives on ist May 1884, 377 ; reads paper to the Royal Institute on British Malaya, 378-9 ; his eldest brother dies, 380 ; he is made G.C.M.G. ; returns to Singapore, 381 ; is much occupied with Siamese in- trigues, 383-7 ; marriage of his daughter, 388 ; records success of Mr. Hugh Clifford's mission to Pahang, 393-5 ; is sent on a mission to Brunei to settle dispute between its Sultan, Rajah Brooke, and the N. Borneo Co., 395-7 ; con- cludes treaty with Sultan, 400 ; visits Sarawak, 401, 402 ; con- cludes treaty with Pahang and the Negri Zembilan, 403 ; takes leave of S.S., 404 ; settles down at Chideock, 405 ; life there, 407-8 ; moves resolu- tion at a meeting of the League for Imperial Federation, 4102 ; makes a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, 412-3 ; he starts for Singapore and falls ill soon after arrival, 414 ; returns to England in a critical con- dition, 415 ; dies at Chideock on 2oth July 1891, 415. Weld - Blundell, H., 152, 219, 239. Wellington, N.Z., 13, 19, 21, 30-1, 49, 52 ; races, 76-8, 87, 99, 125, 132, 221-3. Western Australia, land laws of, 157-61 ; discovery of, 162 ; expansion of, 163 ; made a penal settlement, 164 ; abor- igines of, 165 ; isolation of, 166 (for description of natural features, mineral riches, etc., see pp. 166-231) ; progress after gold discoveries, 232. Wortley, Hon. James Stuart, 94-101. Wynyard, Colonel, 90-1. Young, Sir Frederick, K.C.M.G., 258, 378. 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