1 tJht I THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ■Nl A ^ k \^»/^ RChM COMMISSION ON HISTORICAL MONVMENIS AN IiMVENTORY OF TjHE h fCAi fWONVMENfS in HERTFC SHIRE ^ ^sif^^^i This \ ulumc and all lh«- other \ olunies in (heSeiies in Ihi- LIBRARY EDITION *-an \v oluained oiih' from THE ADELPHI PUBLISHING * BOOKSELLING CO. i Bedford Couri. IJedford Street Strand, WC *4S.CtrUr/tai )9M. LONDON: PURLISHKI' HY 11!^ \' \ ' ■ ■; ! \ - T , office. To be ptucbased, either dlroclly or th m l,x^x B.C- or OLIVER HID BOYD, TWKKDDAJ.£ < „«tT HrMiV / IHIJaaA 3HT -'.' .^.k-.:^. ,ji,,jt (.lOiiraH .nuoj biolbsH «. ROYAL COMMISSION ON HISTORICAL MONXMENTS AN INVENTORY OF tHE HISfORICAL MONVMENfS in HERTFORDSHIRE /^^^JiJVJVO DNIJ3 'M'OA\XL ^^^^^^ %J.S.CurUr/i£ii jgu. LONDON: PUBLISHED BY HIS MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE. To be purchased, either directly or through any Bookseller, from WYMAN and SONS, Lxo., Fettbr Lase, E.G.; or OLIVER AND BOYD, Tweeddale Court, Edinbuboh, or E. PONSONBY, Ltd., 116, Grapton Street, DuBLm. PRlXTKn BY JAS. TltUSCOTT *Kii KDN, I.lr. . I,..si...N. E.C. 111 TABLE OF CONTENTS. PAGE List of Ii.i.usTiiATUtx.s .--.-.- iv Chairman's Pueface - - - ... . . -vii Terms of Ai'pointment ---..---ix Report ...-.-... xiii Historical Tntroduction ....-.- l Schedule A : An Inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments in the County of Hertford accredited to a date antei'ior to ] 7UU, arranged by Parishes ......... 17 Schedule B: A List of Monuments selected by the Commission as especially worthy of preservation .--...- 2Kj Glossary ....-...- 249 Index .-...--..- 250 Map 312 ni JOO. -Wt. L. ■)29a, 5/-1 J T. 4: S. IV LIST (M- ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGK. 32 34 ALDKNHAM. Tilt' Cliuicli : plan .---••-•" ANSTEY. The Church : plan - The Castle : plan --------- 37 ASHWELL. The Church : Tower auil Lycli Gate ...--- 16 ASTON. Aston Bury from the South -------- 42 BENUEO. The Churih from the South-east ----•-■ f)0 BEXINGTUN. The Church : Interior of Chancel - - - - - - - 19 BISUOP'S HATFIELD. Hattield liouse : Ground Floor plan ...... 54 „ ,, Eirst Floor plan ...... 56 ,, ,, Grand Staircase ------- 03 ,, ,, Screen iu Hall ------- 53 North front ....-.- 24 The Palace : from an old plan ....... 59 ,, ,, present plan -------- 61 ,, ,, exterior ........20 ,, ,, interior ........ 62 BISHOP'S STORTI-'ORU. Waytemore Castle : plan -..-...- 64 CHESHUNT. Waltham Cross 78 The Great House : interior -------- 76 FLACNDEX. The Church : plan ------ - - 89 GILSTON. The Church : Chancel screen ----- - - 92 GREAT BERKHAMPSTEAD. The Church : plan ..------- 94 The Castle: plan --------- 99 The Grammar School ..-.-..- 92 GREAT WYMONULEY. The Castle: plan 106 HARPENDEN. Rothauisted : Eutrauie iiout . - . . - - 108 PAOE. HEMEL HEMPSTEAD. The Church: plan ----.-... m Tlie Cliunth : interior of Chancel ---.... ]()9 HEXTON. Ravensburgh Cai^tle : plan - - - - - . - - llo HITCHIN. The Church: Screen - - - - - - . - 118 The Town : plan --------- 121 HUNSDON. The Church : Screen - - - • - - . - I'JH LITTLE HADHAM. Hadham Hall : Eiitiaiice (iateway ...... I45 LITTLE HURMEAH. The Church : North Door -.-..... 147 NORTHCHURCH. The Church : plan - ....... 157 NORTH MIMMS. North ilynims Park : House ....... i(j(j PIRTON. Toot Hill : plan - - - - . - . . - 163 REDBOURN. The Church from the South-east --..-.. lijy The Auberys : plan --.-.-,.. l(j REED. The Church : North Doorway - - - - - - - 170 Grou]) of Homestead Moats: plan ---.... 170 ROTSTON. The Cliurch : interior - - - - . - . .174 ST. ALBANS. The Abbey : plan ......... jgo ,, ,, Central Tower ....... 9 ,, ,, Triioriuiii of South Transept - - - . - 10 >, ,, North arcade of Nave --.... 173 ,, ,, South arcade of Nave, Western half .... 18I ;, ,, South arcade of Nave, Eastern half .... jyu ,, ,, South aisle of Presbytery ...... 185 ,, ,, Chamber of the Eeretrai' ...... jyy ,, Shrine of St. Alban ... ... Fruntlaplai-e ,, ,, Chantrey of Abbot Ramryge - - - - - 184 ,, ,, Rood screen --.-..-. 187 ,, ,, Gatehouse - . . . . ... 188 The Clock Tower ---...... 14 House in George Street ........ 188 VI PAGK. ST. MICHAEL. Verulam : plan .... .... 190 Roman wall ---...-. 192 The Church : interior ........ 194 ST. STEPHEN. The Church: Lectern .---...- 19 S.\NDRIDGE. The Church : Chancel arch ....... 199 SARR.\T. The Church : plan ......... 201 TEWIN. (jueen Hoo from the South ........ 23 TIIERFIELD. The Rectory ..--..... 218 WARE. The Church : Font ......... 227 Tlie Priory from tlie Norlh-enst ■ ■ ■ - • 228 Remains of 15th-ceutury House ----... 230 WESTOX. The Church : North Transept .... . . 2^7 Vll PREFACE A FEW informal words will not, I trust, be out of place by way of introduction -^T^ and may help to explain both the arrangement of these pages and the manner in which the monuments have been recorded. This volume contains (in addition to the terms of appointment and official report) a general historical introduction; an illustrated Inventory, with a concise account of the monuments visited; a list of monuments that the Commissioners have selected as especially worthy of preservation; a glossary of architectural, heraldic and archaeological terms; a map showing the topographical distribution of the scheduled monuments, and an index. Under the heads of parishes, arranged alphabetically, will be found a list of their respective monuments. The chronological sequence chosen is not perhaps scientifically perfect, but it has been found a workable basis for classification. The order adopted is as follows : — (1) Pre-historic monuments and earthworks. (2) Roman monuments and Roman earthworks. (3) English ecclesiastical monuments. (4) English secular monuments. (5) Unclassified monuments. In addition to dwelling houses, the English secular class (4) includes all such earthworks as mount and bailey castles, homestead moats, etc. To the section of unclassified monuments (5) are assigned undateable earthworks, as, for instance, unopened tumuli. Each category of monuments, as explained in the Official Report, has been under the care of separate Sub- Commissions, with Lord Plymouth, Lord Balcarres, Professor Haverfield, and myself as Chairmen. The descriptions of the monuments are of necessity much compressed, but the underlying principle on which accounts of any importance are based is the same throughout. Thus, in the case of ecclesiastical moiuiments, the description begins with a few words on the situation and material of the monument, together with a statement as to the historical development of its various parts. A second para- graph calls attention, when necessary, to its more remarkable features. This is VIU followed by a concise description, mainly architectural, of its details. A fourth paragraph deals with the fittings of churches in alphabetical order, while the con- cluding sentence gives a general statement as to structural condition. The accounts of less important buildings, whether secular or ecclesiastical, are still further compressed, and, in the case of secular monuments, consist sometimes of a single paragraph. The illustrations are derived from photographs taken expressly for the Commission, and reproduced by H.M.'s Stationery Office, whose work, I think. deserves special recognition. They have been chosen rather for their educational than for their aesthetic value. Had appearance alone been made the test of selection, many more might have been easily included. The map at the end of the Inventory shows the distribution of the monuments, and incidentally throws some light on the concentration of population in the county at various times before the year 1700. The index follows the rules laid down by a small Committee of the Com- mission, whose members, with a view to assisting in the co-ordination and correlation of archaeological indices generally, adopted in a great measure the conclusions of the Index Committee of the Congress of Archaeological Societies. In a work of such intricate detail there must be mistakes. But I hope these are neither numerous nor serious. Each account has been carefully checked, and nothing is mentioned that has not been personally examined. A further guarantee of accuracy lies in the fact that Mr. W. Page (General Editor of the Victoria County History) has served as a member of each Sub- Commission, and that Mr. C. R. Peers (Secretary to the Society of Antiquaries) has himself revised the reports of our investigators. Nevertheless, I shall heartily welcome any corrections that may be sent to me, with a view to their possible inclusion in .some future edition of this volume. BURGHCLERE. IX TERMS OF APPOINTMEXT AND OFFICIAL KFPORT. Whitehall, 28th Octobf.r. liios. The KINCJ has Ix'cii pleased tn issue a Commission under His Majesty's IJoyal Sign Manual to the following effect: — EDWARD, R. iSt I. EDWAED THE SEVENTH, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Uoniinions beyond the Seas King, Defender of the Faith, to Our right trusty and well-beloved Counsellor Herbkrt Coulstoun, B.\Rf)N Burghclere; Our right trusty and right well-beloved Cousin and Counsellor Robert George. Earl of Plymouth, Companion of Our Most Honourable Order of the Bath; Our right trusty and well-beloved Cousin Harold Arthur, Viscount Dillon ; and Our trusty and well -beloved : — David Alexander Edward Lindsay, Esquire, commonly called Lord Balcarres; Sir Henry Hoyle Howorth, Knight Commander of Our Most Eminent Order of the Indian Empire, President of the Royal Archaeological Institute of Great Britain and Ireland ; Sir John Francis Fortescue Horner, Knight Commander of Our Royal Victorian Order ; James Fitzgerald, Esquire, Companion of the Imperial Service Order, Assistant Secretary in the Office of the Commissioners of Our Works and Pulilic Buildings ; John George Neilson Clift, Esquire, Honorary Secretary of llie liritish Arch;ro logical Association; Francis John Haverfield, Es(iuire, Doctor of Laws, Camden Professor of Ancient History in the University of Oxford ; Emslie John Horniman, Esquire; and Leonard Stokes, Esquire, Vice-President of the Royal Institute of British Architects ; GREETING! Whereas We have deemed it expedient that a Connnission should forthwith issue to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Con- structions connected with "or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civilization and conditions of life of the people in England, excluding Monmouthshire, from the earliest times to the year 1700, and to specify those which seem most worthy of preservation : Now know ye, that We, reposing great trust and confidence in your knowledge and ability, have authorized and appointed, and do by these Presents authorize and appoint you, the said Herbert Coulstoun, Baron Burghclere (Chairman); Robert George, Earl of Plymouth; Harold Arthur, Viscount Dillon; David Alexander Edward Lindsay (Lord Balcarres); Sir Henry Hoyle Howorth; Sir John Francis Fortescue Horner; James Fitzgerald: John George Neilson Clift; Francis John Haverfield ; Emslic John Horniman, and Leonard Stokes, to be Our Commissioners for the purposes of the said enquiry : And for the better enabling you to carry out the purposes of this Our Coramis sion, We do by these Presents authorise you to call in the aid and co-operation of owners of ancient monuments, inviting them to assist you in furthering the objects of the Commission ; and to invite the possessors of such pai>ers as you may deem it desirable to inspect to produce them before you. And We do further give and grant unto you, or any thiee or more of you, full power to call before you such persons as you shall judge likely to afford you any information upon the subject of this Our Commission ; and also to call for, have access to and examine all such books, documents, registers and records as may afford you the fullest information on the subject, and to enquire of and concerning the premises by all other lawful ways and means whatsoever: And Wc do by these Presents authorise and empower you, ru* any three or more of you, to visit and personally inspect such places as you may deem it expedient so to inspect for the more effectual carrying out of the purposes aforesaid : And We do by these Presents will and ordain that this Our Commission shall continue in full force and virtue, and that you, Our said Commissioners, or any three or more of you, may from time to time proceed in the execution thereof, and of every matter and thing therein contained, although the same be not continued from time to time by adjournment: And We do further ordain that you, or any three or nioie of you, have libiM'ty to report your proceedings under this Our Commission from time to time if you shall judge it expedient so to do : And Our further will and pleasure is that you do, with as little delay as possible, report to Us, under your hands and seals, or under the hands and seals of any three Of more of you, your opinion upon the matters herein submitted for your con- sideration. And for the purpose of aiding you in your enquiries Wo hereby appoint Our trusty and well-beloved George Herbert Duckworth, Esquire, to be Secretary to this Our Commission. Given at Our Court at St. James's, the tw^enty-seventli day of October, one thousand nine hundred and eight, in the eighth year of Our Reign. By His Majesty's Command, H. J. GLADSTONE. EDWARD /?. & I. Edward the Seventh, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond the seas King, Defender of the Faith, To Our trusty and well-beloved Sir Schomberg Kerr McDonnell (commonly called the Honourable Sir Schojiiberg Kerr McDonnell), Knight Com- mander of Our Most Honourable Order of the Bath, Commander of Our Royal Victorian Order, Secretary to Our Commissioners of Works and Public Buildings, GREETING ! Whereas We did by Warrant under Our Royal Sign Manual bearing date the twenty-seventh day of October, one thousand nine hundred and eight appoint Com- missioners to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Constructions connected with or illustrative of the contemporary culture, civiliza- tion and conditions of life of the people in England, excluding Monmouthshire, from the earliest times to the year 1700, and to specify those which seem most worthy of preservation : And Whereas a vacancy has been caused in the body of Commissioners appointed as aforesaid, by the death of James Fitzgerald, Esquire : Now Know ye that We, reposing great confidence in you, do by these Presents appoint you the said Sir Schomberg Kerr McDonnell to be one of Our Commissioners for the purpose aforesaid, in the room of the said James Fitzgerald, deceased. Given at Our Court at St. James's, the tenth day of April, 1909; in the ninth year of Our reign By His Majesty's Command, H. J. GLADSTONE. 6 2 XII Whitehall, 30th May, 1910. The KING has been pleased to issue a Warrant under His Majesty's Royal Sitrn Manual to the following effect: — n GEORGE. R. I. GEORGE THE FIFTH, by the Grace of God, of the United Kingdom of Great Britain and Ireland and of the British Dominions beyond the Seas King, Defender of the Faith, to all to whom these Presents shall come, GREETING! Whereas it pleased His late Majesty from time to time to issue Royal Commis- sions of Enquiry for various purposes therein specified : And whereas, in the case of certain of these Commissions, namely, thoso known as — The Ancient Monuments (England) Commission, the Commissioners appointed by His late Majesty, or such of them as were then acting as Commissioners, were at the late Demise of the Crown still engaged upon the business entrusted to them : And whereas We deem it expedient that the said Commissioners should continue their labours in connection with the said Enquiries notwithstanding the late Demise of the Crown : Now know ye that We, reposing great trust and confidence in the zeal, discretion and ability of the present Members of each of the said Coiniuissions. do by these Presents authorize them to continue their labours, and do hereby in every essential particular ratify and confirm the terms of the said several Commissions. And We do further ordain that the said Commissioners do report to Us under their hands and seals, or under the hands and seals of such of their number as may be specified in the said Commissions respectively, their opinion upon the matters presented for their consideration; and that any proceedings which they or any of them may have taken under and in pursuance of the said Commissions since the late Demise of the Crown and t)ei'ore the issue of the.se Tresents shall be deemed and adjudged to have been taken under and in virtue of this Our Commission. Given at Our Court at St. James's, the twenty sixth day of May, one thousand nine hundred and ten, in the first year of Our Reign. o By His Majesty's Command, R. B. HALDANE. XIU ROYAL COMMISSION ON THK ANCIENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS AND CONSTRUCTIONS OF ENGLAND. KEPOIIT TO THE KING'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. 1. May it Please Your Majesty, We, the undersigned Commissioners, appointed to make an inventory of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Constructions connected with or illus- trative of the contemporary culture, civilization and conditions of life of the people in England, excluding Monmouthshire, from the earliest times to the year 170U, and to specify those which seem most worthy of preservation, humbly submit to Your Majesty the following First Interim Report on the work of the Conunission since its appointment. 2. We venture, before entering more fully on the matters under review, respectfully to offer our most sincere condolence on the great loss which Your Majesty and the Nation have suffered through the lamented death of His late Majesty of Revered Memory. 3. We further desire humbly to submit our deep feelings of loyalty and devotion to Your Majesty on Your Accession, and we gratefully acknowledge our re appoint- ment to continue the important and enduring task which His late Majesty had entrusted to us. The Commission was first appointed on 27th October, 1908, and the first was held on the 10th November following. Sine of the Commission and Sub-Commissions have taken place. meeting was held on the 10th November following. Since that date 35 meetings 5. The earlier meetings were devoted to the consideration of the method in which the work of the Commission would best be carried out. It was at these meetings that we became conscious of the debt we owe to the experience and enthu- siasm shown by the late Mr. Fitzgerald, whose untimely death we most sincerely deplore. 6. At its third meeting on 17th December, 1908, the Commission accepted a scheme suggested by the Chairman, in which were embodied various proposals received from the Commissioners themselves. Under this scheme it was agreed that the work should be sub-divided, and should be allotted according to the natuie of the monuments to be investigated. XIV 7. Four Sub-Commissions were accordingly appointed by the Chairman, with instructions to deal with the following categories of monuments: — (1) Pro-Roman monuments and earthwoiks other than Roman. (2) Roman monuments and Roman earthworks. (3) English ecclesiastical monuments. (4) English secular monuments. . 8. The Sub-Commissions in question were constituted by Lord Burghclere with the following Chainiien : — The Earl of Plymouth, Chairman of the Ecclesiastical Sub-Commission; Lord Balcarres, Chairman of the Sub-Commission on Earthworks; Professor Haverfield, Chairman of the Sub-Commission on Roman Monuments; while Lord Burghclere himself took charge of the Sub- Commission on Secular Monuments. 9. The Secretary to the Commission was appointed Secretary to the various Sub-Commissions, and has acted as the co-ordinating link between them. 10. It was further agreed that the County should be the unit of publication, and that the civil parish should be the unit of record within the County. n. Hertfordshire was selected as the first of the Counties to be investigated. 12. It was recognised from the outset that it would be necessary to regard the enquiries into this County in the light of an experiment, designed to reveal the method by which we should l)est be able to conduct our investigations into the remaining counties of England. 13. At the beginning of the financial year 1909-10 we were in a position to appoint our staff of investigators, and preliminary instructions were then issued as to the manner in which the monuments of the County were to be noted and catalogued. 14. In the ensuing months the Sub-Commissions met frequently to supervise the work of the investigators, while the Commission was summoned from time to time to discuss the more important recommendations of the Sub-Commissions. 15. We append to this Report a list (Schedule A) of the Ancient and Historical Monuments and Constructions in the County of Hertford which may reasonably be accredited to a date anterior to 1700. 16. This list has been referred for revision to the local Archaeological Societies, to the County Council, and to the clergy and schoolnutsters in each parish. Our endeavour throughout has lieen to frame authoritative and scientific accounts of the Monuments under review, and we are satisfied that no important example within the given period has been omitted. 17. We further append a list (Schedule B) of those of the monuments in the County which, iu our opinion, are especially worthy of preservation. 18. A fuller account of the monuments mentioned in these lists, with illus- XT trations, will be found in the Inventory which we have issued, under the advice of the Lords Conunissioncrs of the Treasury, as a separate Stationery OHice publication. 19. Additional details, including various [ilans and sketches which we have collected but have not thought it necessary to publish, will be prcseiTcd, together with a set of the photographs taken of all the inoiuuiients visited, and we hoj)e that in due course it may be found possible to make these Records accessible to students of archaeology and architectural detail. 20. We have from time to time been asked for advice and assistance with respect to the preservation of monuments which have been threatened with destruc- tion. In these cases we have tried to give such helj) as lay within our power. But, we are agreed that, having regard to the conditions under which we carry on our work, it would seriously impair the elliciency of our enquiry were it expected that we should at any moment interrupt its settled course in order to report upon the nature and value of threatened monuments in counties outside the immediate purview of the Commission. 21. Cases, however, occur where it is desirable to deal at once with imperilled monuments of historic importance, and we are of opinion that the time has come when such cases (which may often arise outside the immediate scope of our labours, or be beyond tlie [)0wers of our Commission to control) should be dealt with by a Government Department acting with the assistance of a permanent Advisoiy Board. 22. In conclusion, we desire to acknowledge our indebtedness to : (1) The owners of houses and other property in the County, who, without exception, have welcomed the visits of ourselves and our investigators to the monuments in their possession. (2) To the Bishop of St. Albans, who courteously gave us a general introduc- tion by letter to all the clergy in his diocese. (3) To the clergy, who have freely opened their churches to our inspection. (4) To the parochial schoolmasters, who have given us special assistance in the revision of our preliminary lists. (5) To the secretaries and members of the East Hertfordshire Archaeological Society and the St. Albans and Hertfordshire Archaeological Society, for their revision of the completed lists of monuments submitted to them. (6) To Mr. D. H. Montgomerie, for the assistance given in visiting and reporting on the earthworks of the County and in training an investi- gator of earthworks foi' the service of the Commission. (7) To Mr. C. E. Longniore, Clerk of the County Council, who furnished the Commission with copies of the calendared Sessions Rolls for the County. (8) To Mr TI. R. Wilton Hall, Honorary Librarian of the County Museum. who supplied a List of the Topographical Rooks of the County, and also revised the completed schedule of iiionuinents. 23. We wish further to add that we received great assistance with regard to the scope and method of our enquiry from the evidence of Mr. C. H. Read, LL.D., President of the Society of Antiquaries, who, up to this date, is the only witness who has appeared before us. 24. Jho Cominissioii also owes a deep debt of gratitude to the following Assistant Commissioners, who have freely placed their expert and technical know- ledge at the disposal of the Commission : — (1) To William Page, Esquire, F.S.A., General Editor of the \ictoria History of the Counties of England, who has acted as a member of each of the Sub-Commissions, and is largely responsible for the general introduction to the Inventory. (2) To C. E. Peers, Esquire, F.S.A., Official Inspector of Historical Monu- ments under Your Majesty's Office of Works, and Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries, who has served as a inomber of both the Eccle- siastical and Secular Sub-Conunissions, and has himself visited prac- tically all the Ecclesiastical and Secular Monuments recorded in our Inventory; and (3) To A. G. Chater, Esquire, Honorary Secretary of the Congress of Archfeo logical Societies, who has supervised the collection of detail with regard to Earthworks, and who is serving upon the Sub-Commission dealing with this type of monument. 25. We desire further to express our acknowledgment of the good work accomplished bv our executive staff in the persons of ^Ir. J. Murrav Kendall, Mr. J. W. Bloe,'Mr. C. C. Durston, Mi.ss E. M. Keate, and Miss G. Duncan. 26. Finally, we wish to record our unanimous appreciation of the services of our Secretary, Mr. George Herbert Duckworth, whose ability, resourcefulness and unfailing energy have been of the highest value to the labours of the Commission. 27. We are now engaged on the monuments of the County of Buckingham, which will form the subject of our next Inventory. Signed : BURGHCLERE {Chairman). PLYMOUTH. DILLON. BALCARRES. SCHOMBERG K. MrDOXNELL. HENRY H. HOWORTH. J. F. F. HORNER. J. G. N. CLIFT. F. HAVERFIELD. E. J. HORNIMAN. LEONARD STOKES. GEORGE H. DUCKWORTH {Secretori/.) iilh June, lUlU. HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. Hertfordshire is one of the smaller counties of England bordering on the Midland plain. Although seldom exceeding a height of 600 feet above sea level, the land on the west and north is high and forms a part of the Chiltern range. The southern and eastern fringe of the county is on London clay, but the rest, except for pockets of clay, is on chalk well covered with soil. The north is undulating down land, and has always been a corn growing district. Here are conspicuous those clumps of trees dotted on the hill tops which are so typical of down land, and here windmills and thatched cottages are found, while in the south there are water mills and tiled cottages. The west formed a part of the Chiltern Forest, and is the land of the beech and the oak, while the middle, south and east were portions of the great Middlesex forests, the characteristic trees in which are the elm, the ash and the oak, and in the central parts the beech. There is historic evidence of various kinds to show that much of this forest land remained uncleared even beyond the 14th century, and in judging the civilisation of the district in various ages this feature must always be borne in mind. Even at the present day 26,568 acres of woodland are registered in the Agricultural Returns for the county. Since the Norman Conquest, on the other hand, the proximity of Hertfordshire to London has added an artificial feature, signally affecting the natural character of its southern portion. This part of the county from early times has had a residential aspect. Country houses, parks and pleasure grounds have been common, and wealth won in London has increased the prosperity of its population. For convenience, the district now comprised in the county is in the following pages referred to as Hertfordshire, but it must be remembered that the county was probably not formed till the reign of Edgar (957-75) and the first mention of it as a shire is in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle under the year 1011. Palaeolithic Age. Ancient and historical Monuments begin with the advent of man. The earliest evidences of the human race, those of the Palaeolithic or Early Stone age, consist chiefly of flint implements. Some of them, and many such have been found in Hertfordshire, are beautifully wrought. The commonest forms are flakes employed probably as knives and scrapers, while the more carefully made oval, ovate and pointed implements were used for all purposes and were held in the hand without handle or shaft. Man of this period was a hunter. He lived in caves or the rudest of tree huts beside lakes or rivers for his water supply, and so far as we know he neither reared cattle nor tilled the soil. In Hertfordshire, Palopolithic implements have been found sparsely distributed over the county. The most important discovery of this date was that of a_ number of implements, mostly of the pointed type, found throughout a deposit of brick earth in the bed of an ancient lake at Hitchin.* A more interesti ng discovery perhaps was * ' Palffiolithic Deposits at Hitchin and their relation to the Glacial Epoch.' Proc. Eoyal Soc. LXI, 40 (1897). . HISTORICAL IXTRODTTCTION. made at Caddington, recently transferred to Bedfordshire. Here Mr. Worthington G. Smith found a factory of Pahvolitiiic implements with stores of worked and unworked flints, hroken and unfinished tools and refuse heaps. Neolithic Age. Geological and climatic conditions appear to have made a complete gap in the history of this country between the Palseolithic and Neolithic ages. During the great and unknown period which the latter age covered, many improvements in the condition of man must have occurred. Towards the close of it, at all events, he lived in villages of huts or ' hut circles,' and sometimes in dwellings built on piles in lakes and rivers. He reared cattle and made camps for his own and their protection. He tilled the ground, wove the material lor his garments, and made pottery. His implements were still of stone, many of them ground and polished, and his tools and weapons (which included the bow) were far more varied than those of his predecessor of the Palaeolithic age. He buried his dead in long chambered barrows. So far as the evidence of the remains of this period hitherto discovered in Hertfordshire show. Neolithic man made his dwelling on the high chalk lands in the north and north-west parts of the county. Here the open downs would be more suitable for his agricultural and pastoral habits than the lowlands in the south and south-east which were then probablv covered with dense wood. Implements of this period have, however, been found along the valley of the Lea about Hertford and Ware and in the valley of the Colne in the neighbourhood of TJickmansworth, where settlements possibly existed on account of the waterways or the fishing and hunting. Bronze Age. After the Neolithic age came the Bronze age, w-hich is reckoned approximately to have begun in Britain about B.C. 1800. With the use of metal, a much higher civilisation could be obtained, more serviceable tools and weapons could be wrought and more elaborate personal ornaments could be made. Some of the remains of this period reached a standard of artistic merit which it would be difficult to surpass. It may be that the use of bronze in this county was introduced by a new race who overpowered the Neolithic inhabitants. The conditions of life were much the same as in the previous age. The Bronze age people, however, buried their dead in round barrows, instead of the long barrows used in the Neolithic age. The remains of the Bronze age in Hertfordshire, though scantier than those of the Neolithic, occur in the same districts and for the same reason as that already assigned. The most important recorded find is a hoard of about 40 bronze implements discovered at Cumberlow Green in Rushden. Late Celtic Period. The date of the first use of iron, ' mans greatest step along the path of progress,' in Britain is uncertain. There was probably a period of some centuries when iron was not unknowm, but bronze continued to be the metal principally employed. Its full use did not, perhaps, begin till about r.c 500.* During the later part of this period there was an invasion of Belgic tribes, tall, fair-haired people from north-east Gaul, who overran the south-east of Britain, • British Museum Ouide to early iron age antiquities, p. 1. HISTORICAL INXHODUCTION. including what is now Hertfordshire. In the first century B.C., Cassivellaunus was the prince of the Belgic tribe of the Catuvelauni, miscalled by the MSS. of Ptolemy Catyeuchlani, whose territory extended into the present counties of Hertford, Mid- dlesex, Buckingham and Bedford. Caesar, in his second invasion (B.C. 54), directed his march to the chief stronghold of this prince, which he eventually took. It is a reasonable conjecture that this stronghold was Verulam, near St. Albans, and, indeed, it answers well to the description given of it by Ca'sar.* The Trinobantes, another Belgic tribe whose chief town was at Camulodunum or Colchester, inhabited the present county of Essex and probably the eastern parts of Hertfordshire. Besides Verulam, it would seem from the number of ancient British coins and other objects found, that there were ' Late Celtic ' settlements in the county at Braughing, Welwyn and Hitchin. The ' Late Celtic ' people developed a native art of high merit. Its chief characteristic was a M'onderful mastery of line, and although the modelling of human and animal forms was weak, the boldness of the designs approached the classic. This art was adapted principally for metal work and pottery, and survived and developed through the Roman occupation. Some specimens have been found in Hertfordshire, but considering the prominence of the ' Late Celtic ' people in the county, many may yet lie hidden in the ground. Bronze helmets have been found at Verulam and Tring, and other objects at Verulam and Wehvyn. Some tapering ' cordoned ' urns, probably copied from prototypes in metal and characteristic of this period, have been discovered at Hitchin. Perhaps it was this people who brought coinage from Gaul into south-east Britain about B.C. 200. The coins were at first rude imitations of the gold stater of Philip II. of Macedon and being uninscribed, there is considerable doubt as to their date. The earliest inscribed coins are those of Tasciovanus, bearing his name and ' Ver.' for Verulam, which were struck at Verulam in gold, silver and lironze from B.C. 30 to A.D. 5. A considerable number of these and other early British coins have been found in Hertfordshire. Romano-British Period. In A.D. 43 began the conquest of the country by the Emperor Claudius under Aulus Plautius. The history- of that conquest does not concern us, but we may briefly describe its results on what is now Hertfordshire and the character of the civilisation which, in consequence, overspread the district for 350 years. The chief Komano-British town in the region was Verulam. This must have become Romanised at a very early date, and consequently during the revolt of the Iceni under their queen, Boadicea, in a.d. 62, received the full fury of the Britons, who probably left it in ruins, like the 'colonia' at Colchester and the trading town at London. Tacitus speaks of Verulam at this date as a ' municii)ium ' or town whose citizens held the Roman political franchise, and enjoyed privileges of self govern- ment. If destroyed, it rose from its ashes and, though overshadowed by ' Londinium,' seems to have been ahvays a considerable place. Its buildings, though as yet im- perfectly known to us, indicate some wealth and splendour and cover an area nearly two miles in circumference. Among these buildings may be mentioned the forum, lately excavated in part, which seems to have been like similar buildings elsewhere. This forum mav have been Dc Belh, Gallicu, Bk. II, 21. A2 niSl^OEICAL INTRODUCTION. laid out before ad. 62, when the place received municipal rank. From the evidence discovered during its excavation, it was manifestly destroyed by fire at some time, but whether this conflagration occurred in 62, or later, is not known. Certainly it was afterwards repaired (though somewhat roughly) and partially re-built. The Komau theatre, the foundations of which have been found to the west of the building last referred to, is notable as the only Roman theatre which has yet been discovered in Britain. There are also extensive and substantial remains of town walls whose precise age is uncertain. The town can hardly have been walled when the Iceni took it in a.d. 62. It has been pointed out that in the western provinces of the Roman Empire, town walls began generally to be erected or re-erected after about A.D. 250, when barbarian invasions were becoming frequent. The walls of \ erulam may well have been erected late in the history of the Empire. They were manned, probably, not by Roman soldiers, but by the citizens of the town. In any case, these walls are among the most noted relics of the Roman age surviving in the south-east of England. Ihey deserve and demand adequate preservation and attention. These remains are, of course, only fragments of former splendour. Syste- matic excavation would, beyond all doubt, add vastly to their number and enlarge our whole knowledge of the history of this Romano-British city and, indeed, of Roman Britain generally. At present it can only be said that the town seems to have survived throughout the Roman period. It was still inhabited by Romanised Britons when Germanus came to this island in a.d. 429 to combat the Pelagian heretics, for (so his biographer relates) he saw the shrine or tomb of St. Alban, and that can hardly have been anj^vhere but at Verulam. It must have been conquered by the English some years later. When Gildas wrote in the sixth century it had long been "lost, and its site has remained bare and unoccupied to this day. On the arrival of the English, they built their houses, as was their custom, outside the Roman walls, on the hill at Kingsbury to the northward, and this settlement in time gave place to the present town of St. Albans. The next most important Romano-British settlement to Verulani in the county was probably Braughing, near the crossing of Ermine Street and the Roman road from Colchester and Bishop's Stortford to Bigglesw.ade. Here are apparently traces of a settlement of uncertain size. Its name is unkno^^•n : Bertram, in the forged itinerary of Richard of Cirencester, calls it 'Ad Fines,' but without authority. Some remains of a tesselated pavement in a plantation called Larksfield, and a cemetery in a field called Wickliams to the south of the railway station hiive been discovered. Coins, including British of Tasciovanus and Cunobeline, and pottery are constantly turned up here, but few records of them seem to have been kept. On the whole the remains seem to be rather numerous for a single country house or farm, though exploration is needed to reveal their exact nature. Roman settlements have also been ascribed to Cheshunt, Baldock, Royston and Bishop's Stortford, but on inadequate evidence. ' Villas,' that is, countrv houses or farms of Roman date, have been discovered near King's Langley Station in the parish of Abbot's Langley, at Boxmoor House in Bovingdon, at Boxmoor Railway Station in Ilemel Hempstead, at Sarratt, at Youngsbury in Standon, at the Rectory, Welwyn, and at Purwell Mill in Great Wyraondlev, and probably at Wigginton. It is likely, from the quantity ofRoman wins, pottery, etc., which have been brought to light in many parts of the county that other Romano-British dwellings lie hidden underground. Potterv kilns have been discovered at Hitchin and at Radlett near Alden- UISTOEICAL LNiaODUCTlON. ham, the latter being of interest as it revealed the name of a local potter ' Castus,' presumably a Romanised Jiriton. The Roman rule over Britain ceased about 410, and the province became a prey to the Picts from the North and the Saxons from over the seas. To sum up, the Roman remains of Hertfordshire present a fair specimen of the more civilised parts of Roman Britain. Of military occupation, there is no trace. Instead, a good-sized country town, a number of country houses and farms around it, and an adequate supply of roads. The town was built in Roman fashion and, although its inhabitants were not Romans but Romanised Britons, contained the public buildings proper to a Roman municipality. The rural dwellings, so far as they have been excavated, show, like the town, Roman patterns, Roman mosaic floors, Roman warming-systems, and so forth, but were doubtless also inhabited by Romanised Britons rather than by actual Romans. They are not very numerous. In a woodland area estates may well have been very large and houses and villages comparatively few. But in some other counties, such as Warwick and Buckingham, which were also woodland districts, the traces of houses in the country are far less. One feature is beyond mistake. The influence of London has not yet begun. The forests which lay round the north of London have not yet been pierced, Verulam is an independent town, not (as to-day) an annexe of the capital, and the country houses and farms around it are rural dwellings and not residences of wealthy Londoners. Pre-Norjian Earthworks. In the present state of our knowledge of the subject it is dangerous to give any opinion as to the date of pre-Norman earthworks. It may, however, be remarked that the fine hill fortress called Ravensburgh Castle, near the northern escarpment of the Chilterns, in .Hexton parish, is probably the best specimen of a pre-Roman camp in the county. It commands a remarkable view to the north-east over Bedford- shire, and, being protected by deep ravines on tliree sides, it must have been a formidable entrenchment. Of the earthworks and site of Verulam, the chief town of the Catuvelauni who arrived in Britain late in the Early Iron Age, it may be said that within that area no object of a date before the ' Late Celtic ' period has \ et been found. The earthworks at the Auberys, in Redbourn parish, resemble those at Verulam on a smaller scale. The camp at Arbury Banks, in Ashwell, has been almost obliterated. The object and date of the great dykes at Beach Jiottom, the Devils Dyke and the Slad at Sandridge are quite unknown. Grims Ditch or Graemes Dyke, portions of which pass through Tring, Wigginton, Northchurch and Great Berkhampstead, is supposed to be part of a great boundary bank which goes through Buckinghamshire by Lee, Woodlands Park, Great Hampden and Lacey Green on to Bradenham. So many gaps, however, occur in its course that the purpose of it is difficult to understand. The fosse is on the south-cast side, so that it was probably made by those holding the land on the north-west. Hence its origin has been attributed to a people retiring before those Belgic invaders who made Verulam their chief town. A vallum at Chcshunt, called the Bank, is said to have formed the boundary between Mercia and Essex. There are about thirty round barrows scattei-ed over the county, and one long barrow in Therfield parish. Of the former the following have been opened : — Easneye, near Ware, by Sir John Evans, who supposed it to be pre-Roman; Six Hills, in Stevenage, one at Youngsbury in Standnn, and another in Knebworth, UISTOBICAL INTHODUCTION. which are said to be Roman; and Broxbornebury, opened by Sir John Evans, who thought it was Danish. Anglo-Saxon Period. The Saxons probably made their way into the eastern side of the county in the hitter part of the (ith century from the east, by way of the Rivers Lea and Stort and their tributaries. It was, however, a long time before they penetrated into the forest lantls of south Hertfordshire. The western side of the county was, probably in the first half of the 6th century, within the territory of the Chilternssetna,* who inhabited the Chiltern country in liucks, and are mentioned in the Tribal Hidage. At what period this side of the county was subdued by the Saxons is not definitely known, but the country adjoining Watling Street and Akeman Street was too important to be left long in the hands of the Britons. Burials, probably of the first half of the 7th century, at Wheathampstead and Redbourn, parishes bordering on Watling Street, possibly point to a connection with Kent.t That at Wheat- hampstead brought to light a bronze ewer, which is unique as regards this country, and that at Redlwurn is the onl\ Saxon barrow examined in the county, and was sup- posed to have contained the relics of St. Amphibalus. It is related by the monks of St. Albans that their patron saint in 1178 directed the way to two mounds called the Hills of the Banners, where the people used to meet, and indicated one as the burial- place of St. Amphibalus. Excavations were made by the monks, and the bones of the supposed saint discovered, carried off with reverence and enshrined in the Abbey Church, where the pedestal for his shrine still remains. A minute description is given of the mounds and the position of the bones and other objects, from which it is clear that the Hills of the Banners were two Saxon barrows, and the bones, supposed to belong to the mythical saint, Amphibalus, were those probably of a pagan Saxon.| The eastern side of the county lay in the kingdom of Essex, and we are told by the Venerable Bede that Sebert, King of the East Saxons, and all his people, were converted to Christianity in 604 by Mellitus, afterwards their bishop. On the death of Sebert, however, in 616, the people reverted to paganism, and did not again become Christians till 649, when Segebert, their King, was baptized, and St. Cead became their bishop. On the western side of the county, which was in the Kingdom of Mercia, Peada, son of Penda, was converted to Christianity about 650, and shortly afterwards Diuma was consecrated the first bishop of the Mercians. The whole of the district now forming the county, so far as it was settled, probably became Chris- tian soon after the middle of the 7th century. The division between the Mercian diocese of Dorchester, afterwards Lincoln, and the East Saxon diocese of London, was in all probability identical with the boundary between the East Saxon and Mercian kingdoms. The diocesan boundary, as regards Hertfordshire, passed from Royston down Ermine Street to Throcking, then by the Rib to its junction with the Lea, thence approximatoly to the county boundary at Northaw-. This gives the larger portion of the county to the Mercians. Anglo-Saxon Settlement of the County. Few existing towns or villages in Hertfordshire can show a continuity of habi- tation from a time before the coming of the Anglo-Saxons. Profe.ssor Skeat points out that all the suffixes to place names in the county (upwards of thirty in number) * See Mr. Reginald Smith in Victnria Count 1/ History, Herts, I, 251. + Victoria Cnunty Hisloii/, Herts, I, 25.>6. + Aichaeologin XXXIII, 264. HISTOKKAI. IXTKODVCTIOX. are of Old English origin, which he states 'at once shows how peculiarly English the inhabitants ot this county were in early times before the Conquest.'* He remarks further, ' that in the overwhelming number of instances the place names of Hertford- shire belong to the speech of the Early Mercian Angles.' Professor Maitlandt calls attention to two distinct types of vills or towns, one the nucleated or concentrated village, which owes its origin to Germanic settlers, containing a cluster of houses in the midst of its fields; the other, which may be a survival of Celtic arrangements, or, it may be added, the result of later settlements in a forest district, consisting of small groups of houses or hamlets scattered over a parish. Hertfordshire can show many examples of nucleated villages, particularly on its north-eastern side, Avhere there yet remains so much unenclosed land. The typical Hertfordshire village is formed of a collection of houses (usually including a smithy, a survival of the earlier community) erected round a triangular green, the meeting-place of its inhabitants. Here may often be found a pond, the village well and the pound, and sometimes on the green or close at hand, as at Aldbury, Brent Pelham, Great Amwell, Datchworth and Thorley, the stocks and the whipping-post. The lock-up, as at Shenley and Anstey, where it forms part of the lichgate, still occa- sionally exists. The village fire-hook, a survival of the time of half-timbered and thatched houses, yet hangs on the church house, now the police-station, at Welwyn. In many instances the church lies a short distance from tlie village, and adjoins the court or hall which in almost all Hertfordshire parishes retains the Anglo- Saxon title of ' bury,' as Wallingtonbury, Thundridgcbury, etc. This arrangement originated probably at the time when the lord of the settlement built the church on the demesne land which surrounded his dwelling, and the parish priest was depen- dent upon him. In other cases the church is either in the middle or at one end of the village, an arrangement which occasionally occurs in Hertfordshire at places where in early times there was no resident lord, such as in the lands of tlie Abbots of St. Albans and Westminster in the west of the county.| The interesting group of unenclosed parishes, Bygrave, Clothall and Walling- ton, are excellent examples of mediaeval vills, although there is now little or no survival of the village comniTinity. They show the enclosed pastures lying imme- diately round the village, and beyond them the great common arable fields without hedges, but divided bv turf balks or unploughed strips of land, covering in the case of Clothall about 600 acres. The original villages, except in the forest districts, in order that they might be surrounded by their territories, are usually to be found a little way off the high roads. As the traffic through the main roads increased, inns and houses sprang up along the road frontage near to the original villages. Some of these roadside settlements, made in the 12th and 13th centuries, and even earlier, have grown into towns which completely overshadow the ancient villages. Instances of thfs are to be found at Eoyston (not a parish till 1540), formerly in Therfield parish, Buntingford in Layston, Whitwell in St. Paul's Walden, Street town as distinguished from Church town at Eedbourn, and also, among many other places, at Stevenage, Braughing, Graveley, and Watton-at-Stone. * The Flare Names of Hertfordshire (East Herts, Arch. Soc), 12. t Domesday Book and Beyond, 1.5 ; see also ^feitzcn, Si'pdehoig und Agraru'esen der Oermniien II, 119, eic. X It may be that the type of vill, with tlie liall and church adjoining separated from tlie village, was the earlier Saxon arrangement, as it occurs mostly on the eastern side of the county, where the settlement was earlier. The type with the church in the village is more frequent in the Hundred of Cashio and the Danish Hundred of Dacorum, on the western aide, where the settlements were made in forest land and were probably later. This point cannot, however, be decided upon the evidence of a single county. 8 HISTORICAL INTROOrCTION. Towns came into existence where opportunities of trade arose such as those which occurred at a crossing of roads, a ford or bridge, a castle, a religious house, or a place of pilgrimage. Trade being the essential qualification for a town, the market place was the most important spot within it. On one side of the market place, which is usually triangular, generally stands the church, and on the others the moot, or town hall, and the houses and shops of the townsmen. The three most important of the early boroughs are Hertford, St. Albans, and Berkhaanpstcad, while Cheshunt, Ashwell, and Stanstead Abbots were becoming considerable market towns at the time of the Domesday Survey. Hertford consisted of two separate towns, both built by Edward the Elder in 913, the one on the north and the other on the south of the Lea.* Each had its market place, that on the north at the Old Cross and that on the south on the site of the present market place. A similar arrangement of towns on the opposite banks of a river existed at York, Nottingham, Stamford, Buckingham, and elsewhere, and in some cases one town was inhabited by a Saxon, and the other by a Danish community. St. Albans, we know from the St. Albans Chronicles, was established by Abbot Wulsin about 950. The original plan can still be traced. Immediately north of the Abbey precinct a large triangular mai-ket place was laid out, reaching, at its southern end in the present High Street, from the west side of French Row to the east side of Chequer Street, and northward up St. Peter's Street. The market place was at an early date much built over at first by stalls and then by permanent shops. Around it and along the roads, leading one to the west and another to the south, houses were bi;ilt with back premises extending to a ditch called Tonmans Dyke, which formed the old borough boundary. The old borough of Berkhampstead apparently stood near the church at Northchurch, and was of importance in the Saxon period, receiving as it did, privileges from Edward the Confessor. The present borough apparently arose under the walls of the Castle in the 11th or 12th centurl^ Here again we have the church at the south end of a triangular market place, which has been encroached upon by a row of shops as at St. Albans. The present market towns of Barnet, Bishop's Stortford, Hemel Hempstead, Hitchin, Hoddesdon, Tring, and Watford have all grown up as such since the Conquest, but similar developments can be traced in most of them. F0UND.\TI0N OF St. AlB.\n's AbBEY. The end of the 8th century marks an important episode in the history of Hertfordshire which has influenced its history ever since. The prosperity of Uie Mercian Kingdom reached its height in the reign of King Ofta II., who, when an old man, desired to found a monastery in atonement for the murder of Ethelbcrt, King of the East Angles, the suitor for the hand of his daughter, Elfleda. Being uncertain where to fix the site of the proposed religious house, it is related that, while at Bath, an angel visited him in a dream and enjoined him to raise the relics of St. Alban and place them in a more worthy shrine. He therefore started for the Roman city of Verulam with Higbert, Archbishop of Lichfield, and his two suffragans, but on arriving he found that the site of the Christian church there had been forgotten. This dilficulty, however, was overcome by the appearance of a ray of light which guided them to the spot. The relics of the saint were found and carried to the little church built by the British converts on the site of the martyrdom, which had been preserved from destruction by the pagan English owing to its smallness. Offa • Anglo-Saxon Chronicle (Rolls Series), II, 78. There was however an earlier town at Hertford. ST. AI.I'.ANS CATIIKDKAI,. t'KNTKAI. TOWKK (1 iTlilKN III; V) I'ltdM TIIK siil III WKST. HISTORICAL INTRODUCTIOX. restored this little church and then took a journey to Rome to obtain from Pope Adrian I. privileges for his proposed monastery. On his return, in 793, he founded the monastery, which he and his son Egfrith endowed with great possessions in its vicinity, retaining, however, the site of the city of Verulam and lands on its north side. The abbey was what is known as a double monastery, that is, it included both men and women ; but the nuns who lived in the almonry were only allowed into the greater, or probably the outer, church. It was founded under the Benedictine rule, which at that time meant merely that the monks lived a close communal life, sleeping in one doi'mitory, in distinction to the separate cells and the hereditary character of the Celtic monasteries. Of what the Saxon church and monastery consisted, or what it was like, we do not know. We have mention of a greater church, which may imply the preservation of the little church of the early British converts and of a cloister and almonry. The only remains of the Saxon church now existing are the baluster shafts in the north and south transepts. The fortihed town of Kingsbury, to the west of St. .Mban's Abbey, was probably established before the foundation of the al)bey, for althouirh its site almost adjoins the abbey precincts, it was not included in the original endo\\Tnent. It did not finally become the possession of the abbey till the 12th century. Kingsbnrv was destroyed about 1000, with the exception of a fortified bastion at the south corner, which w^as not demolished till the reign of Stephen. Although much built over in modern times, the earthworks can still be traced. The Formation of Parishes. As has already been suggested, the settlement of Hertfordshire, particularly of the western side, was for the most part late. The formation of parishes began at the end of the 7tli or early in the 8th century, was going on during the hundred years preceding the Conquest, and continued till long after that date. About 950, the Abbot of St. Albans built the churches, and probably at the same time created the parishes of St. Peter, St. Michael, and St. Stephen in the district round the abbey. It was soon found that the church of St. Peter was inadequate for the needs of that great parish, and the chapclries of Sandridge, Ridge, and Northaw were probably formed within it in the 12th century. Shortly after the assessment for Pope Nicholas's Taxation (1291) these chapelries had become separate parishes. Berkhampstead St. Peter, Bushey and Flamstead were carved out of Berkhanipstead St. Mary or Northchurch, Watford and Redbourn respectively in the 12th century, and Thundridge out of Ware in the 13th centurv; while, according to Pope Nicholas's Taxation, Pirton was a chapelry in Ickleford, Great Wymondley in Hitchin. and Wigginton in Tring. Ippolitts was apparently formerly in Hitchin parish and Great Amwell included the greater part of Hnddosdon and probably St. Margaret le Thele. Elstree did not become a parish till the Ifith century, and until recently Totteridge remained a detached chapelry of Hatfield and Bayford of Essendon. With the exception of the St. Albans churches above referred to, Bushey and one or two others, we have little documentary information as to the date of the first erection of Hertfordshire churches. Danish Invasion. Hertfordshire, north of the Lea, was included in the Danish Territorv about 885*, and the Danes harried the country between the Lea and St. Albans in the time * Thorpe, A7icf. Lairs and Tintf. of "Engl. I, G6.' 10 HISTORICAL INTEODUCTIOM. of Athelstan (925-941). The Danish invasions, however, left few permanent marks in Hertfordshire bevond the towns at Hertford and the survival, possibly, of place names such as the Hundred of Dacorum, Danesbury, Daneswich, Danes End and Odsey. Early Ecclesiastical Buildings. A few years hence it may be possible to show the remains of a Romano-British church brought to light in the impending excavation of Verulam, but at present the oldest fragments of Christian architecture in the county are the turned stone balusters in the transepts of St. Albans Cathedral, which may perhaps be assigned to the end of the Sth century. They are of Barnack stone and are doubtless re-used material from the Roman city close by. This, however, is no argument against the probability of the import of similar oolite freestone into the county in Saxon times; and, indeed, the only two Hertfordshire churches which can show the Saxon "long and short" quoins at their angles — Reed and Westmill — have these quoins of Barnack stone. The most easily obtainable freestone — a clunch of various degrees of softness, of which the Tott'ernhoe stone of Bedfordshire is typical — stands the weather badly, and may be the cause of the disappearance of many other masonry-built Saxon churches. Reed, which preserves the north doorway and all four angles of its Saxon nave, is probably an early 11th-century building, and Westmill is not likely to be of very different date. At Walkern the walls of the nave are probably Saxon, and in the south wall is an early figure, formerly, it would seem, over the Saxon south doorway, which was destroyed by a 12th-century arcade. A cable-moulded impost used up in the arcade is probably also Saxon, and another like it occurs at Little Munden, where Saxon work also exists. At Great Amwell the existence of a double-splayed window in the apsidal sanctuan>' is hardly suflficient to prove a pre-Conquest date, but evidence of a very uncommon and early tj^pe of building is to be found at North- church, the mother parish of Great Berkhampstead. The characteristic feature is a square chamber at the west end of the nave, equal in ^^•idth to it. but with thicker walls: the Saxon church of Daglingworth in Gloucestershire, and the Old Minster, of doubtful but early date, at South Elmham in Suffolk, are other examples. Roman brick quoins and arches occur in a group of early churches, St. Michael's and St. Stephen's at St. Albans, Sandridge, and Great Gaddesden; but none of these, with the possible exception of St. Michael's, are likely to be older than the close of the 11th century at earliest. It must, however, be noted that a good many churches in the county probably preserve in their narrow naves the dimensions of simple aisle-, less buildings of Saxon date, now superseded by later work. The Norman Conquest. The Norman Conquest brought great changes to this county, as it did else- where. After the Battle of Hastings, William marched northward and, crossing the Thames at Wallingford, laid waste the country till he came to Berkhampstead. Here, there can be little doubt, he hastily threw up the nucleus of the earthworks which form the castle, and here the Norman Conquest 'received the formal ratification of the conquered.' Edgar Atheling, Aldred Archbishop of York, Earls Edwin and Morcar, with all the chief men of London, came to Berkhampstead to meet the Conqueror, ' and then from necessity submitted when the greatest harm had been done; and it was very imprudent that it was not done earlier as God would not v. H HISTOttlCAL INTHODUCTION. 11 better it for our sins : and they gave hostages, and swore oaths to him ; and he promised them that he would be a kind lord to them.' * William then went on to Westminster, where he was crowned ' on Mid-winter day.' Notwithstanding his promises to be ' a kind lord,' William continued to lay waste the country and dispossess the chief landowners. We learn from the Domes- day Book, as Professor Maitland and Mr. J. H. Round have observed, that Hertfordshire before the Conquest had been 'the home of liberty' — a land of sochmen or tenants of a peculiarly free kind, particularly in the north-east of the county. We do not know what had become of these tenants when the Domesday Book was compiled (1086), but Mr. Round suggests that they had probably sunk to the level of villeins. Norman Castles. The Normans had come as conquerors with a determination to enrich them- selves at the expense of the conquered. They brought with them new ideas and new methods, and, obtaining wealth by exaction from the English, they expended large sums in building churches and castles. They introduced a new type of military fort or castle, consisting of a mound, or ' motte ' as it was termed, raised to a height of from 10 feet to 100 feet, upon which stood a timber tower with access by a steep bridge over a fosse or ditch which surrounded the ' motte.' Attached to the ' motte ' was generally one or more baileys or courts, also surrounded by a fosse or ditch. It was not till some fifty years or more later that this type of castle received masonry defences. Two of these castles with which the Conqueror designed to encircle London were situated in Hertfordshire, namely Berkhampstead and Hertford. The earth- works of Berkhampstead, which, it would seem, William had already thrown up, were probably strengthened, and the castle was handed over to Count Robert of Mortain, half-brother of the Conqueror, who here, as Mr. Round thinks, had his personal residence, t The earth and timber defences continued till 1155, when the castle was in the charge of Thomas Becket, then Chancellor and afterwards Archbishop of Canterbury. Entries on the Pipe Rolls at this date show that the masonry work, including the circular keep and the existing curtain walls of the bailey, was then built. One of the charges against Becket when he fell into royal disfavour was as to his expenditure on Berkhampstead Castle. The castle was afterwards attached to the Duchy of Cornwall and so became the property of the Princes of Wales. Besides the 12th-century curtain walls the sites of gates and towers can still be identified. We have little information about the early history of Hertford Castle, but the earthworks are probably of the time of the Conqueror. Large sums of money appear on the Pipe Rolls from 1170 to 1174 for the works of the castle and the king's houses in it, and it may perhaps be inferred that this was the date at which the masonry castle was built. Of the medifcval castle a length of plain flint walling, with part of an octagonal turret and a brick gatehouse of later date, alone remain. With the exception of the Bishop of London's castle at Waytemore in Bishop's Stortford, the origin of which is unknown, the lesser castles of the county came into existence possibly at the time of the Anarchy in Stephen's reign (1135-54), when many adulterine or unlicensed castles were built. They are all in the northern and eastern side of the county, within the sphere of influence of the unscrupulous * Anglo-Saxon Chronicle (Rolls Series), II, 168-9. t Victoria County History, Herts, 1, 280. 12 HISTORICAL INTKODUCTIOM. Geoffrey de Mandeville, who obtained from Stepheu in ilil, and later from Maud, the oilites of Justice and Siierilf of Essex and lierts and of London and Middlesex, together with the tustodv of the Tower of Loudon. Thus, with his stronghold at ^Valden, now SaiTron Wa'lden in Essex, a little over the Hertfordshire border, he had almost supreme power in this compact and all-important corner of England, a supremacy which enabled him to authorise the erection of such castles. These were possibly some of the strong castles around London Avhich, in 1141, the Empress Maud gave him licence to retain.* These castles seem to have been of the nature of manorial strongholds, their sites having been chosen rather as the chief seats of their owners than for any strategical reasons. The only castle in the district of which Geoffrey de Mandeville had not control was Waytemore or IJishop's Stortford, lying in the direct route of communication from London to Walden. Of this little more than the foundations of the keep now remain. All his endeavours to obtain possession of it through the Empress Maud proved fruitless. It was, however, during the Barons' War of John's reign that the Hertford- shire castles took a prominent part, lierkhampstcad and Hertford were in the King's hands, but the great landowners for the most part sided with the barons. John seized Bishop s Stortford Castle in 1207 on account of the bishop's opposition to the election of Stephen Langton to Canterbury, and may have dismantled it, as the bishop received licence to repair it in 1213. Berkhampstead and Hertford castles were in 1216 besieged by Louis of France and the barons, and both places were con- siderably damaged by siege engines. The two most important of the lesser castles were Benington and Anstey. Benington had been the head of a Saxon Lordship which was held before the Conquest by the thegn ^thelnuer. William I. granted it to Peter de Valognes, and it became the head of the Valognes barony in Hertfordshire. Roger de Valognes was apparently a partisan of Geoffrey de Mandeville and was present with him at Stephen's celebrated Easter Court in 1136. On the Pipe Roll for 1177 is a charge for 100 picks for throwing down the keep {tnrrivi) of Benington, which j^oints to the keep having been at that time of stone, for, had it been of wood, it would probably have been burnt, and picks would have been unnecessary for its demolition. The stump of a small 12th-century keep still remains. Anstey Castle is a formidable stronghold. The great mount with its deep ditches still filled with water is perhaps the finest example of a ' niotte ' in the county. Unfortunately its early history has not been traced. At the time of Domesday, Count Eustace of Boulogne held Anstey in his own hands, and tradition has it that he built the castle. By the end of the 12th century it was held by a family bearing the name of Anstey. In 1218 Nicholas de Anstey was given till mid-Lent to throw down the castle so that nothing should remain of it except that which was built before the Barons' war.t What was destroyed may have been the masonry keep, indication of which apparently came to light during some excavations made in 1903 by Mr. R. T. Andrews and Mr. W. B. Gerish. In 1225 the castle was in the King's hands and the custody of it was given to the Archbishop of Canterbury.^ Dionisia, daughter and heir of Nicholas de Anstey, married William de Munchensy and their daughter and heir Dionisia married Hugh de Vere. • Round, Geoff', de ManJeville, pp. 16in, 17-t. 17."). t Close Roll, 2 Hen. III. J Calendar of Patent Bollt, 1216-25, 543. HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. 13 Walkern Castle was the head of the St. Clare barony in Hertfordshire. Hamo de St. Clare was present with Geoffrey de Mandeville at Stephen's Easter Court in 1136, and it may be to him that the castle is due. It passed with his grand daughter to the Lanvaleys. There is no masonry now to be seen, and probably none ever existed. Pirton Castle (' Toot Hill ), which was the head of the Limesi barony in Hertfordshire, and passed by an heiress to the Oddingsells, has a large but not very high 'motte,' and the remains of a puzzling series of banks and ditches which enclose the church. Nothing is known of its history, and there is no evidence that it ever had any masonry defences. Great Wymondley Castle, which adjoins the church, was probably the head of the Argentine barony in Herts. John de Argentine sided with Stephen, and may have thrown up the castle in the time of the Anarchy. There is no evidence that it ever had masonry walls. The little castle near Barkway seems to have belonged to the Scales or Eschallers family who had a manor there named after them, and now known as Challers. Eeligious Houses. The wave of religious enthusiasm, partly aroused by the Crusades, which swept over Europe in the 12th century, has left in most parts of England a record of its existence in the ruins of monastic buildings containing souie of the finest architecture of which this country can boast, in Hertfordshire, however, few such marks of its influence exist. The great Benedictine monastery of St. Alban, with its immense possessions in the south and west of the county, the Benedictine monks of Westminster, and the canons of St. Paul, with their possessions in the north and east, excluded all houses of Cistercian monks and other orders of regulars. Cells of St. Alban's Abbey were founded in the 12th century at Sopwell, Hertford, Redbourn, St. Giles in the Wood and Markyate, but no vestiges of them now apparently remain, except the stones of Sopwell embedded in the wall of the Tudor park along the London Road, St. Albans, which show 12th and 15th-century details. Small houses of Benedictine nuns were also founded at Cheshunt, Flamstead and Rowhenny in Great Munden, a cell of Westminster Abbey at Sawbridgeworth, and a little alien priory at Ware. A house of Austin or Black Canons was founded at Royston, a preceptory of the Templars at Temple Dinnesley in Hitchin, and a commandery of Hospitallers at Standon, while lazar houses were established at St. Julians and St. Alary de Pray, botli near St. Albans. Of none of these, except Royston Priory, does an5rthing remain, nor is any of the work at Royston — the eastern part of the priory church, now the parish church — of the 12th century. Few houses of regular monks were founded in England after the 12th century, but a house of Austin Canons was founded in the 13th century at Little W^-mondley in this county, some remains of which still exist in the farm house there. Those who, in that century, desired to found religious houses, usually established friaries or hospitals. But the same influence which kept out the Cistercian order limited the introduction of friaries into the county. The Dominicans, Friars Preachers or Black Friars, who arrived in England in 1220 were the earliest to establish them- selves in Hertfordshire. They had a house at King's Langley, the ruins of which, dating from the beginning of the 14th century, still survive." Tliey wore followed by the Franciscans, or Grey Friars, at Ware, of whose buildings the f rater and the 14 HISTOHICAL INTRODUCTION. great hall remain, much altered, and the Carmelites, or White Friars, at Hitchin, where portions of the cloister exist. Hospitals were also founded in this century at Baldock, Clothall and Royston, and others later at Anstey, Berkhampstead and Hoddesdon. but no remains of their buildings are now in existence. \Vith the 1-ith century came the founding of colleges and chantries. Of the former there was a small house at Stanstead le Thele or St. Margarets, built in 1315. Chantries were also established at this period, sometimes at an altar in a parish church, and occasionally at a chapel some distance off. They existed in almost every parish in Hertfordshire, and continued to be founded till the close of the reign of Henry VIII. HoMESTE.vD Moats. Notwithstanding the disturbed condition of England during the reigns of Richard I., John and Henry III. (1189-1272), there was a growing demand for land by a wealthy middle class. Large landowners who had been impoverished by the Barons' Wars gladly met this demand by subinfeudation. New manors were created and knights' fees split up, a system w'hich brought confusion and led to the enactment of the Statute of ' Quia Emptores " in 1290. The tenants of these new holdings, who required security for their possessions in those disturbed times, were the makers of many of the homestead moats, of which there are 139 in the county, mostly on the eastern side. Some of these are possibly earlier than the reign of Richard I., while, on the other hand, many are considerably later, as the practice of constructing moats continued into the 16th century. The moats were always wet, and consequently were usually placed on low ground, but they are occasionally found on high land fed by springs. Their shape was generally four- sided, although they vary considerably in this respect. The earth from the moat was thrown on the inside and spread over the island thus formed, upon which was built the house, with its barns and cattle sheds Religious houses, as Wymondley Priory, founded at the beginning of the 13th century, and Colney Cnapel, in Shenley, founded towards the end of the 12th century, were often surrounded by moats. The Wars of the Roses. Three of the principal battles in the Wars of the Roses took place in Hert- fordshire. The first was fought at St. Albans on 22nd May, 1455, and ended in a victory for the Yorkists. The alarm for it was rung from the clock tower there, which, with its original bell, still exists. The second, which resulted in favour of Queen Margaret's forces, was also fought at St. Albans on l7th February, 1460, and the third at Barnet on Easter day, 1471. This last battle, in which Warwick the King-maker was killed, replaced Edward IV. on the throne. A monument erected in 1740 is supposed to mark the spot where Warwick died. With the mingling of the red and white roses in the Tudors, Henry VII. was enabled to dismantle Berkhampstead Castle and allow Hertford Castle to fall to decay. Economic Disturbances. Throughout the 14th century Hertfordshire was convulsed with economic and industrial disturbances. In the early part of the century serious trouble between the Abbot of St. Albans and his tenants aroused a feeling of unrest throughout a great part of the county. In the middle of the century (1349) the Black Death ST. AI^BANS. THK CLOCK TdWKi;, I4(i3-141-?. HISTOEICAL INTEODUCTION. 16 made great ravages on all classes. At St. Alban's Abbey, out of about sixty monks, forty-seven died of it. The plague was followed by the Peasants' Revolt of 1381, and St. Albans was one of its principal centres. Houses and mills were burnt and court rolls and other records destroyed. The doors of the Great Gate of the Abbey at which the populace clamoured, survive, stored away in the abbey church. John Ball, the priest famous for the text of his sermon, ' When Adam delved and Eve span, where was then the gentleman,' William Gryndcobbe, a substantial citizen of St. Albans, and some dozen other leaders, were hanged at St. Albans. The rebellion was quelled but the rebels' cause, the manumission of the villeins, Avas gained as a natural result of the economic progress of society. The effect of these industrial disturbances was to make agriculture which required labour unprofitable, and hence in the 15th century the landowners began the well-known system ot inclosing, for the purpose of converting the arable lands into pasture. Thus, as sheep farms did not require the labour which was necessary for tillage, the lack of labourers in the fourteenth century was converted into the great dearth of employ- ment in the sixteenth. The conversion of arable land into pasture was severely felt fn Hertfordshire. Six hundred acres were inclosed in 1426 to form Moor Park, and in 1428 a large area was taken to form Bushey Hall Park. About 1440 Robert Whittingliani built a large house at Pendley, in Tring parish, and inclosed much land for pasture, for which purpose he destroyed 'a great town' where there were 'above thirteen ploughs, besides divers handicrafts-men as tailors, shoemakers and card- makers, with divers others.' The inclosures diminished the number of small landowners, and consequently lessened the number of cottages in the villages. At the same time they brought into existence the sheep farmer, for whom a better type of house, often situated some way from the village, was required. They also caused accumulation of great wealth in the hands of the graziers, owing to the flourishing condition of the wool trade ; the expenditure of this wealth on Hertford- shire churches is apparent in the architecture. Jhe inclosure riots at Nortliaw and Cheshunt in Hertfordshire in 1548, according to John Hales, were the beginning of the insurrection which spread over all southern England in the following year. Post Conquest Ecclesiastical Architecture. The most important architectural work in the county during the half-century after the Conquest was the rebuilding of St. Alban's Abbey, but there was no doubt as great an activity in this period with regard to the smaller churches here as else- where. Most of the simple buildings of the time have been enlarged again and again till hardly a stone of them remains to witness to their existence, but a certain number, beside those already noted, are still recognisable. Aspenden, Ippollitts, Norton, Redbourn and Tewin all contain work of the end of the 11th century or the early years of the 12th, and other early 12th-century work exists at Bengeo and Great Wymondley (the only churches in the countv, except (xreat Amwell, with apsidal chancels), Great Munden, Stanstead, St. IVfargaret's, Willian, Wormley, Meesden, IMrton, Flamstead, Barley, East Barnet, Walkern and, perhaps, Codicote. Later 12th-century work is to be seen at Ickleford, Little Hormead, Knebworth, Stapleford, Stevenage, Weston, Hemel Hempstead and Sandridge, and to the closing years of that century belong the nave arcades of Abbots Langley, 16 niSTOEICAL INTRODVCTION. Kimpton and King's Walden, where scalloped capitals and trefoiled foliage occur together, marking the last stage of the transition from the Romanesque style. Heinel Hempstead, a cruciform church of 1140-80, with a central tower and vaulted chancel, is the finest 12th-century parish church in the county, but before their rebuilding there nmst have been large churches of this period at Ilitchin, Stevenage, Flanistead, Anstey and Wheathampstead, amongst other places. The late 12th-century church of Sarratt has a very unusual and interesting plan, but has been much altered. The great Abbey Church of St. Alban is the only one of the first rank in the county. liegun in 1077 and consecrated in 111"), it retains the central tower, transepts and naAe of the original work in sufficiently perfectly condition to make it possible to judge of its general aspect when it left the builders' hands. The Roman bricks and flints of which it is built make for extreme simplicity of detail, and it was originally plastered and whitewashed within and without, and depended for its ornament chiefly on the painted masonry patterns which still exist on its walls. But in size it far surpassed its prototype at Caen, being one of the largest churches of its time, and before the end of the i2th century had been still further enlarged by Abbot John de Cella. The doorways, chancel arches, fonts, etc., which are such notable features of 12th-century work in other counties, are but poorly represented in Hertfordshire There is not one sculptured tympanum in the county, and the west doorway of Hemel Hempstead is the only doorway which is of other than ordinary merit; while the fonts are chiefly represented by the late marble type with plainly arcaded rectangular bowl carried on a central and four smaller shafts, which is common to many parts of England. The font at Anstey, however, is a notable exception, being carved with grotesque figures. A fine piece of wrought ironwork of this date also remains on the north door of Little Hormead, and possibly that on the south door of Codicote is of this period. Thirteenth-century building is well represented in Hertfordshire churches, not only at St. Alban's Abbey in the beautiful work of Abbots de Cella and Trump- ington, dating from the early years of the century, and of their successors, John de Hertford, Roger de Norton, and John de Berkhamstead, from 1257 onwards, but in many of the parish churches. The foliate capitals of the nave arcades of Flamstead, Great Gaddesden, and Offley, carrying on the story of the late 12th-century work already mentioned, are exceedingly beautiful, and features such as the chancel arches of Standon and Eastwick, and the fine arcaded windows of the Priory church at Royston, rise to a high level of excellence. The chancels of a large number of churches were rebuilt at this time, generally round the lines of older work, so that their width became equal to that of the nave, and this proportion is occasionally observed in churches which were completely built during this period, as at Gilston. Some of the largest churches in the county date from this century, as Great Berk- hampstead, and it is clear that important churches such as Ware, Hertingfordbury, Hatfield, Tring, and Watford are but little larger now than they were in the time of Edward I. The addition of Ladv chapels on the south side is chni'acteristic of the period, and examples occur at Hatfield (south transept), and St. Michael's and St. Stephen's at St. Albans. Thorley is almost entirely of c. 1220, and the remarkable little church of Flaunden, whose plan is an equal armed cross with an interior length of 36 feet, dates from c. 1230. A number of fine piscin.T of this date exist in the county, and several good fonts, as at Stevenage and Standon, but the ASHWKLI.: 1>AHISI1 ("HURCH OF ST. MARY. WKST TOWEl!, 14th CENTrilV, .WD I. Veil (i.VTK. l'l!i>ll.Vlll.V l.)TH-( ■KXTl-l!V. HISTOHICAL INiaOIJUCnON. 17 most remarkable survivals are the remains of a wooden chancel screen of c. 1270 at Gilston, and some misericords of slightly later date at Anstey. In the fourteenth century, as in those preceding it, St. Albans Abbey was the scene of the tinest architectural work in the county. The early years of the century saw the completion of the I.ady chapel with its vestibule and the new pedestal of St. Albans shrine, work which, apart from its beauty and richness, has a special architectural interest, since it furnishes the earliest dated example of net tracery in England. The fall of part of the nave in 1323 led to its rebuilding in very beautiful style during the next twenty years, and to the second half of the century belong the rood screen in the nave and the door which once opened to the east walk of the cloister. Elsewhere in the county the best example of the time is the cruciform church of Anstey, which, with the exception of the lower stage of the central tower, was gradually rebuilt between 1300 and 1350. Brent Pelham is a simple and dignified aisleless church of c. 1350, and a good instance of the breadth of style which village churches of the period often show; the Lady chapel of Abbots Langley, c. 1300, is another case in i)oint. The churches of Baldock, Sawbridgeworth and Stevenage have much work of the first half of the 14th century, and other good specimens are the north chapel of Ayot St. Lawrence (ruined), the south chapel of Great Berkhampstead, the north transept of Wheathampstead, the chancel of I'lamstoad, and the nave nrcades of PuttenhMin and St. Paul's Wiilden. Benington has sojne rich work of c. 1320 in the north arcade of the chancel, and there are many examples of the beautiful window tracery of 1300-1350, as at Standon, St. Albans, St. Paul's Walden and elsewhere. Evidence of exact date, apart from considerations of style, is found at Flamstead, north-east window of north ai.sle, 1332; North Mimms, North chapel, 1328; Buckland, built 1348, and the chancels of Sandridge and Abbots Langley, 1396-1401. The stone chancel screen of Sandridge, under- building the early chancel arch of Roman brick, is particularly interesting, and at North Mimms an abandonment of a projected central tower may be one of those traces of the Black Death which are to be seen here and there in all [jurts of England. At Great Hormead work seems to have l)een broken off about the same time. Of the later years of the century, c. 1340 SO, the splendid church of Ashwell, on the Cam- bridgeshire border, is a nota])le example, but is rather an outlying specimen of East Anglian type than chara(;teristic of the comity. Among tlio fonts of this century may be mentioned the fine one at Ware and those at I^ittle Hormead and OfTley. Very little woodwork of this period remains; the roof of the eastern part of the Jiorth aisle of Tlitcliin belongs to the middle of the fourteenth century, sonie tracery of c. 1320 is used up in the pulpit of Graveley, and there is a very fine early 14th-century chest in the room over the vestry ai Broxbnunio. The stalls at Stevenage may also date from the end of this century. The later phases of Gothic architecture, dating from the 15th and 16th-cen turies, are well represented in the county both in masonry and woodwork, a large majority of the church towers belonging to this period. Bishop's Stortford has a fine church begun probably about 1400, and its west tower was being built in 1430-35 ; the nave arcades of "Ware are further examples of good early 15th century building, and those of St. Peter's, St. All)ans, c. 1440, are of very good proportion. At Tring the nave arcades, though the pillars have been renewed, are worthy of note for the grotesque carvings in tlie spandrels, from which slender shafts rise to the clearstorey. Cheshunt church was rebuilt between 1418 and 1448, and thechurchof Newnham was repaired c. 1430, during the first abbacy of John of Wheathampstead, the famous abbot of St. Albans, the tracery of the east window at Newnham is of unusual 18 HISTORICAI, INTROOtJCTlOX. character for the time, and may owe its design to tlie magister operum of the Abbey. At St. Albans the most important pieces of lyth-centuiy work are the feretrar's chamber, c. 1400, and the splendid high altar screen, c. 1480. Redbourn has a south chapel of c. 1450, with a cornice of moulded red brick probably of somewhat later date, c. 1480; there is similar work in the old vicarage at Rickmausworth, but it is of very rare occurrence in the district. Eroxbourne has a good 15th-century church, and an interesting two-storeyed vestry of 1522. Caldecote has a small village church entirely of the 15th century, with a tower set over the west bay of the nave, and Watton church is another instance of a 15th-century rebuilding. The nave arcades there, as at Barkway, are very well designed. Cottered has very fine and well-proportioned windows of this time, but here, as elsewhere in the county, the loss of the original glass destroys the full effect of the 15th-century tracery. Fur- neux Pelham has a south chapel of 1518, and Wyddial a north aisle and arcade of red brick of 1532. A large number of fonts of this period remain in the county, one of the finest, perhaps, being that at Hitchin ; there is another good example at St. Stephen's, St. Albans, and at the same church there is a fine lectern of early 16th- century date. There are several late survivals of Gothic work in the county, as Oxhey chapel, 1612, the tower of Rickmansworth, 1630, and the curious red brick church of Buntingford, 1615. Stanstead Abbots has a red brick north chapel of 1577, the Essex chapel at Watford is of 1595, and the Salisbury chapel at Bishop's Hatfield of 1610. The south arcades of the last two chapels, and the arcade between the chancel and south chapel of Aspenden, 1622, are good specimens of Jacobean work, and the south porch of Broxbourne is 17th-century work of simple and dignified character, not unworthy of Inigo Jones himself. A considerable number of 15th and 16th-century wooden screens still remain in the Hertfordshire churches, the best being perhaps those at Hitchin, but only a few, as at Redbourn and Kimpton, retain the coved canopy below the rood loft, and not a single loft has been preserved. A good deal of plain oak seating of this period remains, and the pulpits at Hitchin and Walkern are of c. 1500. At Digswell there is a little early renaissance woodwork of c. 1540, the only survival in Hertfordshire churches of a peculiarly interesting phase of the history of English architecture, but the number of Elizabethan and Jacobean pulpits is fairly large. In Hunsdon church is a very fine early 17th-century screen, there is another at Wyddial, and the 18th century chancel screen of St. Paul's Walden has fortunately escaped the modern Gothic ' restorer.' Many churches retain their 15th-centurA' roofs, though none can be compared with the splendid East .\nglian work; but those of Bushej% Puttenham, Braughing. and Hitchin, among others, are worthy of mention. Spires are not common in the county, the absence of stone spires being explained by the scarcity of good freestone, and w^th a few exceptions, such as the fine spire at Hemel Hempstead, the wooden spires are small. The commonest form is a short but slender leaded fleche known as the Hertfordshire Spike, which is not a very satis- factory finish to a square tower of masonry. In the north-east of the county a larger variety of this occurs, the fleche springing from an octagonal lantern; the best example is perhaps that on the fine tow^er of Ashwell church. The central tower of St. .Mbans Cathedral had at one time a ' spike,' and a very interesting record exists of the erection there early in the 13th century of a tall octagonal wooden spire, which has long since vanished. BENINUTUN ; rAIJlSII ClirHril OK ST. I'KTKK. IXTKRIOH OF CHAXlKl, LOOKINd XoKTH-KAST, SHOWING 14th and IAtb-CENTUKV ARCHKS AND TOMBS. ST. STKl'llK.NS (.<•!'. AI-HAXS; CHURCH OK SI'. STKI'HKN. LECTKKN; li-.Tii-rKNTniY.; HISTOEICAI, INTHODUCnOW. 19 The sepulchral monuments of the county are numerous, and in many cases of great interest. There are a coiisiilerable number of medi;eval elhgies, ranging between the 13th and the early part of the Kith centuries, of which three are of alabaster. There are two siiiaU ligures, probably denoting heart burials, one of c. 1290 at Letchvvorth, the othei- of c. 1340 at Therheld, and there was formerly a small wooden efligy at Ayot St. Lawi'eiice. The earliest ligures are those of knights at Bishops Hatlield, ilitchin, Eastwick, and Walkern, tbe last being a I'urbeck marble hgure wearing a helm over a coif of mail ; all are of the 13th century. There ai'e 14th century elhgies at .Vlbuiy, Aldenham, Anstey, Beiiiiigttm, (ireat Herk- hampstead (ulabastei), ilitchin, Little Munden, and Koyston ^alabaster), and 15th- century ligures remain at Aldbujy, Ayot St. Lawrence, Benington, Bovingdon, Flani.stead, and Little Munden. Of the brasses, tlio earliest are those of John Pecok and his wife, r. 1330, and a cross-brass without inscription, c. 1350, at St. Michael's, St. Albans, the brasses of Richard and Alargaret Torriugton, 135(j, at (Jreat Berkhaiiii)stead. with several others in tLie same church, Robert Albyn at Hemel Hempstead, two symbolic roundels at Albury, of c. 1340, that "of Sir Philip Peletoot, 1301, at Watton (much restored), and that of Thomas ITorton, priest, of c. 1360, at North Minnus. This, like the splendid brass of Abbot de la Mare at St. Albans, of c. 1370, is Flemish work. The late 15th-century brass of Sir John Say at Broxbourne is notable for retaining much of its coloured inlay, and a little remains on that of Sir Robert Clyfl'oi'd, 1508, at Aspenden. A certain number of early tomb slabs have been preserved, the most inter- esting being one of black marble, richly carved in late 13th-century style, in Brent Pelham church. It is, by tradition, the monument of a mythical 11th-century hero. Piers Shonks. At Sawbridgeworth there is an early 14th-century slab of Purbeck marble, with the incised hgure of a woman, and 14th-century slabs, with inscriptions still legible, exist at Tewin, Watton, Sawbridgeworth and elsewhere. In Watton there is also an alabaster slab with incised figures, inlaid with black composition, to John Boteler, 1471, and his two wives, and another alabaster slab, on a torn!) of Elizabethan date, to a lady of the Barford family is at North Minnus. The finest monuments in the county are, of course, the tomb chapels at St. Albans, of Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and Abbots Ramryge and Wheathamp- stead (or perhaps Wallingford), but others of note are Edmund de Langley's tomb at Kings Langley (from the destro)ed Friars' church). Sir Richard Whittingham's at Aldbury (from Ashridge), the two'tombs on the north side of the chancel at Bening- ton, etc., and there are imposing 10th and 17th-century monuments at Hunsdon, Broxbourne, Hertingfordbury. Bishop's Hatfield, etc. The late 15th and 16th- century raised tombs of Purbeck marble, generally with canopies, which seem to have been made in large quantities in London, occur at Aldbury (Sir Ralph Verney, 1546), Aspenden (Sir Robert Clyfford, 1508), and Sawbridgeworth (uninscribed). A few late 17th-century headstones to graves exist in some of the churchyards on the eastern side of the county. The remains of mediaeval stained glass are not important. There are 14th-century fragments at Buckland, Clothall and Offley, while 15th century glass, more or less perfect, is to be seen at Much Hadham, Little Hadhani, Caldccote, St. Peter's at St. Albans, etc., and part of an interesting 15th-century Jesse window at Barkway. St. Albans Cathedral has a very remarkable series of wall paintings of 13th to KUh-century date, but with this exception there is little work of the kind in the county, the only remains of much interest being at Abbots Langley, Bengeo, c 2 20 HISTORICAL INTEOUUCTION. Flamstead, Much Hadham, Sarratt and Widford. Paintings of St. Christopher occur at Cottered and Ridge. Tlie glazed HcK)r tiles, of whidi a few sur\ ive here and there in the county, belong for the most part to a type probably made in London in the 14th and 15th centuries, but in the chancel of Meesdcu there are some early 14th-century shaped tiles of a far rarer and more interesting kind, of whiih the best examples are to be seen in Prior Craudene's chapel at Ely. The Dissolution of the Monasteries. The dissolution of the monasteries greatly affected Hertfordshire where so nuich land was held by religious houses. Wolscy began by dissolving the little nunnery of St. Mary de Pray in order to endow his Cardinal's Colleges; then followed the dissolution of the smaller houses in 1536, and on 5th December, 1539, the great abbey of St. Alban was surrendered to the crown. The abbey church, the longest in England, with the exception of Winchester and Glastonbury, was sold to the mayor and corporation of St. Albans in 1553 and was converted into their parish church, the parochial chapel of St. Andrew being pulled down. The main- tenance of its great fabric frequently baffled the resources of the townsmen, till its restoration was undertaken by public subscription and otherwise in the 19th century, before the church assumed the dignity of a cathedral in 1877. The dissolution of the colleges and chantries under the Act of 1547 causetl further destruction of historical monuments in the county and placed more land in lay hands. The fall of the religious houses gave an opportunity to a wealthy middle class to acquire estates, build houses, and found families. Hertfordshire had many attractions for this class, notably its nearness to London, the fertility of its soil and the favour shown to it by royalty. Henry Wll. acquired Hatfield House from the Bishop of Ely and resided theie on frequent occasions. There also Maiy sjient some unhappy years after her mother's divorce, as lady in-waiting to her infant sister. Edward VI. and Elizabeth spent much of their childhood at Hatfield, and Elizabeth nmst have had both pleasant and painful memories of that historic resi- dence. There it was that under a tree in the park (according to Sir Robert Naunton) Sir William Cecil and others told her of her accession to the crown, whereupon she fell on her knees exclaiming .1 Domino fact urn est illud et est mirahrle in oculis nostris. Henry VIII. occasionally visited Tyttenhanger, a house of the abbot of St. Albans, and Moor Park, a residence of Wolsey. He i-ejiaired Hei'tford Castle, and there and at llunsdon House and Ashridge his cliildren frequently stayed. Schools .\nd Almshouses. With the dissolution of the religious houses and chantries the care of the aged and education of the young were considerably diminished. Some of the hospitals which escaped suppression survived as almshouses. In Hertfordshire the practice of building almshouses did not come into use till the 17th century. Good examples of these, mostly of red brick, are to be found at St. Peter's, Cheshunt, Hitchiii, Buntingford, Baldock and Flamstead. Hertfordshire can boast of three pre-Reformation schools. At St. Albans a school existed as early as the 9th century, and in the 12th century it is said that there scarcely could be found in England a better school or one fuller of scholars. In the reign of Edward VI. the Lady (^hapel of the abbey church was appropriated HISTOBICAL INTRODUCTION. 21 to the use of the school, and there it continued till 1871, when it was moved to the Great Gate House of the monastery. Berkhampstead School was built by Dr. John lucent, dean of St. Paul's, in 1.544. His long red brick school house, witli the master's house at one end and the usher's at the other, still remains. There wa.s a school at Stevenage in the 14th century, but the present buildings are of the 16tli century and modern. There are 17th-century school buildings at Huntingford, Cheshunt, Hertford, Stanstead Abbots, and Ware. Restriction in Building. The Act of 1589 forbidding the building of cottages without assigning four acres of land to each of them* was evidently passed in the interest of the conunoners, but it entailed great hardship upon the agricultural labourer, and every ])Ossible attempt was made to evade its provisions. It was not repealetl till 1775, t although it does not seem to have lx;en enforced after the early part of the 18th century. During the time it was in existence theie was little develo])mont in the villages. Cottages were occasionally rebuilt, but few were erected ujion new sites. Under the provisions of the Act justices of the peace were empowered to license the erection of cottages on the waste land for pau}x>r.-;, hence it is that so many cottages at the present day exist on the road-side waste. Secular Architecture. The lack of good building stone, which tells against the survival of early ecclesiastical buildings, is even more destructive to secular work. Timber, its substitute, though durable enough, is more easily destroyed than masonry, and though it is possible that in the framework of some Hertfordshire houses portions as ancient as the 13th century may sui-vive, they cannot now be identified, and, apart from the scanty remains of the castles, no secular building now standing in the county shows details of earlier date than the second half of the 14th century. The Abbey Gatehouse at St. Albans, rebuilt soon after the great storm of 1363, and the Clock Tower, also at St. Albans, built c. 1410, are the two oldest existing secular buildings to which a dehnite date can be given. Of actual dwelling houses a considerable number dating from the 15th century are still recognisable, especially in the towns, where more may yet remain to be discovered. At St. Albans, indeed, the destruction of part of the old Fleur-de-I.is Inn some years ago revealed an early 14th-century two-light window of wood, now in the Hertfordshire Museum, but nothing of so early a period appears to exist elsewhere. The great mediaeval houses of the county, such as the Palace at King's Langley and the Earl of Salisbury's house at Bushey, are utt<^rly gone, and those which incorporated or occupied the site of suppi'cssed monastic buildings, such as Ashridge, Markyate, Sopwell, and Beechwood, are now destroyed oi- lebuilt. The splendid country house of the Abbots of St. Albans at Tyttenhanger, and Wolsey's house of the 'More' at Kickmansworth, perished in the 17th century; the palace of the bishops of London at Much Hadham was altered and re-cased in the same century, while of Bishop Morton's palace of Hatfield, the western wing remains, and is to-day the finest piece of mediaeval brickwork in the county. * Stat. 31, Eliz. cap. 7. t Stat. 15, Geo. Ill, cap. 32. 22 HISTOHICAL INTKODUCTION. Another notable survival is the 15th-century hall of the Great House at Cheshuut, Mow tased iji Iblii century biickwoik ajid standing i'orlorn among acres of market gardens, llunsdon House, originally built in 1447, is so nuich altered and repaired that little of its historical intei-est exists; it is of red brick, with early IGth-century additions, hut a good deal of the old work was destroyed in 1SU4. Of smaller houses there are, however, a fair innnber which can show 15th or early IGth century woik, the vast majority Ijeing timber built. Two exceiitions to tins lule are the old rectory at Therliel'd and Hin'xworth IMace, both built of wrought stone. Neitiier is complete; at Hinxwoith the much altered hall and pait of one wing of an H-shaped house remain, and at Therfiekl there is only the east wing of what was probably a liouse of similar plan. Of the two, Therfield Rectory is by far the more ijnportant, the work being very good of its kind. On the first floor are a solar and a cliapel, and on the groutid floor a iloorway. now opening w'estward into an 18th-century building, demon.strates the former existence of a 15th-century buihling in this position, prcsumalily the hall. The usual media'val plan of an open-roofed hall with two-storeyed wings at each end (the H plan) is the type to which the 15th century country houses chiefly belong, though only two halls of this date, those of the Palace at Hatfield and of the Oreat House at Chesliiint, remain open to the roof. Part of the hall roof at Cottered Lordship, now a farm-house, still exists, though the hall is divided into two storeys, while at Thorley Hall there is one bay of a fine hall roof of c. 1430, also hidden by an inserted floor. The majority, however, of the 15th-century houses of the county are found in the towns. There are three or four in Hitchin with halls originally open roofed, while others belong to a dilTerent type, having the principal room or hall on the first floor. The Brotherhood House at Hitchin is a good instance of this, and an outlying example is John of Gaddesden's House at Little Gaddesden. It is very diflicailt to give a date to the many small timber-built houses and cottages which occur throughout the county, though a considerable number may be of the 15th century. In many parishes houses of this description abut on the churchyard and are probably the old church houses. The fine range of timber- built houses, now used as the village school, on the south side of Standon church- yard, probably dates from the end of the 15th century, and may belong to this category. The 16th century was an age of great houses, of which Hertfordshire had its share, though, as has already been said, time has dealt unkindly with them. They w^ere as a rule in four ranges built round a rectangular courtyard, and remains of such houses exist at The Lordship, Standon, built in 1546 by Sir Ralph Sadleir. Little Hadham Hall, built c. 1575 by the Capels; Berkhampstead Place, built c. 1580 by Sir Edward Carey, and Gorhambury, built 1563-80 by Sir Nicholas Bacon. At Standon part of the west wing remains, with a gateway flanked by turrets; and at Hadham all the west wing, with a gateway of similar design but in more perfect condition, and part of the south wing remain. Both these houses are brick built, with nnillioned sfjuare headed windows, while Berkhampstead Place, of which only the north west wing remains, is built of flint with a chequer work facing of flint and clunch. All three are still inhabited. Corhambury, on the other hand, has been a ruin for over a century, and nothing but the walls of the brick-built hall, with a beautiful two-storeyed porch of stone, and parts of the west wing, with the base of an octagonal stair-turret, exist. .\nother great house, the Rye House at Stanstead Abbots, has fallen on evil days, and retains little m(tre than TKWIN. grKKX Hut), FUOM THK .SOUTH; Kil U-CE.NTUUY. fllSTOHICAL INTEODCCTION. 23 the 16th-centiiry gatehouse. The fashion of varying the brickwork with lozenge patterns in darker bricks, characteristic of the first half of the lOth century, is to be seen in the gatehouse of the outer court at Hadham Hall, at Clintons in Little Hadham, and at Queen Hoo, Tewin; and in the latter part of the century stepped copings to the gables came into use, as at Hadham Hall, the Brick House at dreat Hormead, Furneaux Pelham Hall, and elsewhere. The brick chimney shafts of this date are often of excellent design, being octagonal, with moulded caps and bases, and shafts ornamented with lozenges, spiral curves, etc. ; the Hertfordshire examples are chiefly found on the north-west side of the county. Taken a.s a whole, the early brickwork of Hertfordshire is not as fine as that of Essex f)r Suffolk, due allowance being made for the small number of brick houses of the best period. The late 15th-century brick cornices of Redbourn Church, and the similar work in the old vicarage of Rickmansworth, are the only examples of a very decora- tive treatment which is common enough in Essex. An instance of an open-roofed hall divided into two storeys occurs at Much Hadham Palace where the 16th-century roof is blocked by 17th-century floors. In the smaller 16th-century houses brick and timber contiiuiod to l»e the usual materials. The H type continues to be conunon, but many of the simpler build ings are of the L type, which did not go out of fashion till the 18th century. Their most prominent feature is the big chimney stack between hall and kitchen, taking the hall and kitchen flues and tho.se of the first floor rooms over them. ^Many of the country inns date in part from the 16th century; a well-preserved example of c. 1540, with the original doors still hanging in its arched gateway, is the Crown and Falcon at Puckeridge, near-Braughing. The Peahen at St. Albans was till lately a very interesting early 16th-century building, but is so no longer, and in most of the larger towns, but particularly at St. Albans, moulded beams of 16th-century date are to be seen in the ceilings of many houses which have been refronted in the 18th or 10th century. The splendid house of the Cecils at Hatfield, finished in 1611, is the finest secular building in the county, and overshadows all other works of its time, but there is a large number of houses of less importance, the most noteworthy being North Afymms, built by Sir Ralph Coningsby c. 1600; Rnthamsted, a 16th-century timber-built house, enlarged, probably for the second time, c. 1650; Highdown, Pirton, built of flint and stone, with stone window mullions, and dated 1613; Tytten- hanger, rebuilt about 1654; Sali.sbury Hall, Shenley, c. 1680; Mackerye End and Turncis Hall, late 16th-century houses, enlarged in the l7th century; Ayot Place, 1615; Letchworth Hall, c. 1620; Pirton Hall, Brent Pelham Hall, and many others. The great Cecil house, Theobalds, is now represented only by an angle of one of its buildings, and ' King James's Palace,' at Royston, whatever may have been its original condition, is now a building of moderate size. Nearly all these houses are built of brick, and generally speaking, red brick becomes the normal building material during the 17th century, though there are many survivals of the old fashion of timber construction. The traditional open-roofed hall g(X^s out ()f use with the rise in the standard of comfort, and during the centni-v the transition from mediaeval to modern house planning is nearly accomplished. The modified H-plan is still that most commonly used, and the L-plan for smaller btiildings, bnt variations from the established types become frequent, and reflect the new con ditions created by the rise of the individual architect, of whom Tnigo Jones is the first T'lnglish example, and the di.sappearance of the 16th-century ' surveyor.' Abnormal buildings like the Brick House at Great Hormead are, however, outside 24 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. any scheme of classification, and must be due to the fancy of an eccentric owner Carved and moulded wood chinuiey-pieces, screens, and panelling were to be found in all but the smallest houses, and fortunately a good deal of fine woodwork yet remains, though every year becoming rarer by reason of Wardour Street and its agents. Except in the best houses, there is not much ornamental plaster-work of this century, as far as regards the interiors, but towards the end of the century external pargetting becomes common, showing a variety of types of combed work and ornamental panelling in low relief, and many house fronts bear conventional devices of crowned eagles, fleurs-de-lis, roses, 'carbuncles,' etc., of such similarity of style that they clearly have a common origin in the stock-in-trade of a local plasterer. From the time of Elizabeth onwards, llortfordsliirc. like other home counties, Ix'came a resort for rich London merchants, and a fair number of the fine houses which they built have survived, though now for the most part involved in the expansion of the city from which their Imildeis sought to escape. Such hou.ses are peculiarly liable to destruction at the present time, being entirely out of keeping with their surroundings, and their careful enumeration is, tlierclore, a matter of much importance. Eighteenth century buildings do not fall within the scope of the Commission, and must be pa.s.sed over with a mere reference to the number of fine specimens in the tow-ns and countryside, well deserving of full notice in the records of county societies, and of careful preservation by local authorities. Condition. The condition of the moniunents of Hertfordshire is, on the whole, good. The County Council and the Urban District Councils are alive to the advantage of preserving the ancient monuments in the county, and have exercised their powers by acquiring and protecting, among others, Waltham Cross (Cheshunt), the remains of the cross at Kelshall, and Waytemore Castle (Bishop's Stortford). The majority of the churches are in a sound state of repair; many, perhaps, have suffered less from neglect than from over-zealous restoration, too often carried further than was required by either practical or artistic considerations. The Totternhoe stone or clunch used in the old work weathers badly, and this has led to the patching of ex- ternal stone-work with plaster or cement, which is an unsatisfactory mode of repair, since it is, at the best, of a temporary nature, and when it fails, as in the course of time it is bound to do, the cement in peeling off carries some of the old stone-work with it. Thus, from the practical and, of course, from the artistic and archaeological points of view, this use of cement is to be regretted. The old churches at Ayot St. Lawrence and Thundridge, and the ancient chapels at Chesfield in (Jraveley, Flaun- den near Tfemel Hempstead, Long .\Iarston in Tring, Minsden in Langley, and St. Mary Magdalene in Northchurch for some time have been disused and are in ruins. There is a tendency to neglect the remains of these buildings, which, in the case of Ayot St. Lawrence and Flaunden, are of peculiar interest. The church of St. James, Stanstead Abbots, is also now disused, and there is a danger of its being likewise neglected. Some careful repairs are needed on the churches of A.shwell, Hinxworth, Kelshall, King's Walden, Letchworth, Redbourn, Wallington, Willian and Wyddial, and the unrestricted growth of ivy is doing damage to the walls of the churches of Aspenden, Little Hormead, Throcking and elsewhere. '/^ HISTOHICAI. INTRODrCTION. ^1 The ancient secular buildings which remain are, for the most part, well cared for, but the repairs and alterations carried out in the early part of the last century and later have tended to detract from the interest of many of them from the archae- ologist's point of view. The walls of Berkhampstcad Castle and the remains of the Eoyal Palace and Dominican Friary at King's Langley require attention. A not uncommon cause of damage to secular buildings, more especially the smaller houses of c. 1600, is the constant demand for old panelling, staircases and mantelpieces, despite the fact that these fittings lose much of their charm and value when trans- ferred to buildings of later or modern date. The remains of the walls of the Romano-British town of Verulam, near St. Albans, are fairly well protected, but the trees and vegetation growing over and near them require watching, as they may endanger the masonry. Many of the earth- works have been much damaged in the past, but there is little destniction threatened at the present time except at Ravensburgh Castle, Avhere young trees and under- growth have recently been planted, which in time will do considerable harm and largely destroy the archaeological interest of this very fine fortress. British and Roman Roads. IcKNiKLD Way : An old road or route can be traced across Hertfordshire, along the scarp of the downs in the north of the county. Its antiquity is shown by the fact that parish and county boundaries follow its course for 18 miles out of 22^ miles, the total length of its route in the count}-, and that it has been Icnown since the 12th century as Icknield Street. The course of the route, as generally understood, is that given on the Ordnance Survey Map. It enters the county near Mortgrove in Hexton parish, and forms the parish Iwundary loetween Hexton and Lilly. It then becomes the county boundary on the north of Offley parish and the parish boundary between Offley and Pirton to Punches Cross. Thence it runs a little to the north of the River Oughton to Ickleford village. Passing to the south of Willbury Hill it follows the line of the parish boundary between Holwell (detached) and Norton on the north, and Walsworth, Letchworth and Willian on the south, almost to Baldock. It skirts the north of Baldock town and forms the boundary between the parishes of Bygrave and Ashwell on the north and Clothall, Wallington and Sandon on the south. Thence it becomes the county boundary to the north of Kelshall and Therfield (except for half a mile on the north-west of Kel-^hall, whe."e the county boundary lies just north of the road) till it reaches Royston parish. It passes through Royston town, and on leaving the parish it again forms the county boundary to the north of Barkway and Barley parishes, and so passes out of the county. Watling Street : This road leaves London by the Edgware Road, enters the county at Elstree, and passes through Radlett to St. Stephen's village. There the present road branches off to the north-east to St. Albans, while the Roman road has been traced continuing across the fields to Verulam, which it entered at the East Gate and passed out at the West Gate. For a short distance it follows the Gorham- bury Drive, and its course can be traced across the fields to Bow Bridge on the main road from St. Albans to Dunstable, which it then joins and passes out of the county at Markyate. Akeman Street : A small part of this road from Aylesbury through Tring and Berkhampstcad to Boxmoor can be traced. The modern road southward from Boxmoor is too erratic in its direction to suggest Roman construction. D 26 HISTORICAL INTRODUCTION. Ermine Street : The Roman road from London to Lincoln enters the county at a hamlet called Bull Cross in the parish of Cheshunt, a little east of the Great North Road, and follows the existing road to Flamstead End. Here it disappears for a couple of miles and is found again at Cold Hall in Broxbourne parish, and can be traced through the woods to a point near the parish boundary between Brox- bourne and Hoddesdon. Thence it follo\vs the existing road by Elbow Lane and Hertford Heath to Little Amwell, then by a cart road to Rush Green Farm and a hedge to a lock on the River Lea, which it crosses, taking a more easterly direction to Bury Field and joining the North Road at Ware Vicarage. It follows the North Road to Braughing, where the Roman road from Colchester probably crossed it, and so on northward by Buntingford to Royston, where it leaves the county. St.axe Street : This road from Colchester is so called in its eastern parts. It enters the county at Bishop's Stortford and can be traced by pieces of roads, foot- paths and parish boundaries through Little Hadham to Braughing, where it crosses Ermine Street and passes by Hare Street in Cottered Parish, through Clothall to Baldock. and then along the high road to Biggleswade in Bedfordshire. There may have been a road connecting Verulam with Colchester. In general its course has been lost, but portions of a road from Sandridge through Coleman Green to Ayot and Welwyn may give some indication of it. This road might be expected to join the Stane Street at Braugliiug. Another road branched from Watling Street westward. Bibliography. Among the hooks and calendars of documents consulted in compiling the Inventorv, the following were found most useful : — Cussans' Histonj of Hertford- shire (1870-1881); the Victoria County History of Hertfordshire (1902-1907); the Transactions of the East Hertfordshire Archaeological Society and of the St. Albans and Hertfordshire Architectural and Archaeological Society (1884-1908); Sir John Evans' A rchceological Siirvey of Hertfordshire (1892); The Sessions Rolls of Hert- fordshire (1581-1698, pub. 1905); and the Chronicles of the Monastery of St. Alhans (from the 8th to the 15th century; Rolls Series, pub. 1863-1873). Some use has also been made of Haines' Handbook of Monumental Brasses (1861); Andrews' Monumental Brasses in Hertfordshire (1903); North and Stahlschmidt's Church Bells of Hertfordshire (1886); and Keyser's Buildings with Mural Decorations in Great Britain (1883). The older county histories and numerous smaller local publications have also been examined. 27 SOUEDTJLE ^^. AN INVENTORY OF THE ANQENT AND HISTORICAL MONUMENTS IN THE COUNTY OF HERTFORD ACCREDITED TO A DATE ANTERIOR TO 1700, arranged by Parishes. 1. ABBOTS LANGLEY. (U.S. 6 in. (")xxxix. N.W. Wxxxix. S.W.) Roman:— *" (1). Dwelling House, about 200 yards N.W. of King's Langley railway station, was found about 1825. (Jondition — No remains above ground. Ecclesiastical:— "(2). 1'arish Church of St. Lawrence, stands 'on liigli ground a little N. of the village. It is built ot Hint rubble with Tottornhoe stone dressings, and is roofed with tiles. The earliest part is the Nave, with its late 12th-ceutury arcades. The West Tower was added c. 1200, the South Chapel early in the 14th century, and the Chancel was rebuilt c. 1400. In the 15th century tiie upper part of the tower, and possibly tlie outer walls of the Aisles, were rebuilt. In the IGth century the; chancel arch was destroyed, and a skew arch was built at the E. end of the S. arcade of the nave to give better access to the chapel. Tlie South Porch was added, or rebuilt, in the 18th century, and tiie present chancel arch was built probaljly about the same time. The 12th-century arcades of the nave are especially interesting on account of their early date, and the windows of the S. ciiapel are tine examples of 14th-contury work. Architectural Description — The Chancel (39| ft. by 141 ft.t) has an E. window of three lights. In the N. wall are tliree windows of two lights each, with simple 15th-centurv tracery, restored, and a plain N. doorway. On the S. side a 14th-centurY arcade opens into the chapel ; it is of two bays, with pointed * The letters a, b, c, etc., refer to the 6 in. Ordnauce Survey slieets. f Diniftisiiins. Unless otherwise stated, the dimeusious given in the Inventory are internal. arches, octagonal shafts and moulded capitals and bases. The earlier chancel arch has been replaced by a much flattened arch, probably of the 18th century. The South Chapel (40 ft. by 22 ft.) has an E. window of three lights with tracery, and, in the S. wall, plainer two-light windows; all of the 14th century. The Nave (43 ft. by 19 ft.) has N. and S. arcades of two bays, with circular columns and square, scal- loped and foliated capitals; E. of the S. arcade a 16th-century archway leads to the chapel. The clearstorey has two windows of two lights each on the N., and three on the S., all of the 15th century. The North Aisle (9^ ft. wide) has a plain doorway and two squarc-lieaded windows of two lights in the N. wall, and a similar window restored, in the E. wall. The South Aisle (9| ft. wide) has live windows like those in the N. aisle, and a 15th-century S. doorway. The Tower (10 ft. by 15 ft.) is of two stages, with 15th-century diagonal buttresses and an enbattled parapet. The KJth century tower arch is of two moulded orders with a rhamfered label, and has half-round responds with square bases and foliated capitals, and in the N. and S. walls of the ground stage are 13th-century lancets. The AV. window and doorway are of the 15th century. The Noofs of the nave and aisles are also of the 15th century; those of the chancel and chapel are modern. Fittings — Brasses and Indents : in S. chapel, indent of liaufle llorwode, 1498, and brasses of his two wives and six chiidern : indent of a man in armour: in the nave, brass of Thomas Cogdell, IGOT. and his two wives. Font: with octagonal panelled bowl and stem, bearing traces of paint and gilding, 15th century. Glass: in a N. window of the clearstorey, frament representing the half-figure of St. Lawrence. Momtmcnt : on S. wall of chapel, to Anne Combe, 1040. of marble, with etfigy. D 2 28 INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFOUDSHIHE. Paintings : on E. wall of chapel, remains of ligures of two Bishops, auJ on 8. wull a series of panels, ilefacetl, 14lli-i ciilurv : near .\. doorway iu elianeel, fragment of a painted tigure : in N . aisK', tahlf of t'oiiiuiaii(lineut.s, and cfligies in clunch of a knight in bascinet with hinge for vizor, ornamented aventail, short hauberk, ornamented leg and arm pieces of plate, orna- mented gypon and plate gauntlets, head on helm with angel crest and lambrekin; and lady in sideless gown and wearing elaborate hair- net; late Htli-ceuturj'', no inscvi])tion ; tlie figures have lost their arms and hands except the upper part of the knight's left arm and the tips of his fingers : in the nave, floor slabs to Sir Leventhorpe Franke, 1()57, and to John Scroggs and his wife Elizabetli, 1692. Plate: includes a cup of 1020. riscinti : in S. wall of chancel, 14th-century, with ogee trefoiled head, and hood-mould with crockets and finial ; bowl modern. Pulpit : made up of early 17th- century panelling with the arms of Leventhori) and others inlaid in wood. Rood Screen : 15th- century, with tracery in the head; the closed panels below the middle rail are pierced by small circular holes. Stoup : E. of S. doorway of S. aisle. Condition — The stonework of the S.E. win- dow of the S. aisle and the jambs of the W. doorway of the tower are much decayed. The quoins and window tracery of the tower are all new. The church is now being repaired, the S. wall of the S. aisle has been rebuilt, vnd most of the windows have now external stone- work. Secular:— « (2). Homestead Moat, in the garden of Patmore Hall, fragment. To the S. and S.E. are indications of earthworks. * (3). Upwick Hall, about 1^ miles S.E. of the church, is modern, but a stone on the E. front bears the initials and date TS 1046, and two ground floor rooms contain some oak panel- ling of that date • one of the doorways lias an oak frame with a flat Tudor arch, evidently earlier than 1040; in the gardener's cottage (see below) are two similar doorways. Condition — Good . '' (4). Garijener'.s Cottage, near Upwick Hall, is a fragment of an L-shuped building of late 15th-century date. It is a rectangular block with an overhanging upper storey, and faces N. The walls have plain upright timbers with plaster filling, and are without struts or cross-pieces, those of the lower storey being almost covered with weather-boarding. In the N. front is a blocked doorway with a Hat four-centred arch, and there is another in a jiartition inside. Near the W. end is a red biick chimney stack, probably inserted in the 17th century, with two large lireplaee openings back to back, spanned with wood lintels; the stack, which has been reduced in height, has square shafts set diagonally. In the roof is a 15th-ceutury arched truss, but the window frames art; modern. Condition — Poor; the whole building has sunk about a foot at the end, and looks unstable. " (5). HorsE, S.E. of the church, is possibly of the Kith century, but much altered and patched in the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, it is of two storc^ys, built of timber, partly j)lastered and partly brick-nogged; the roof is tiled, and ridged from end to end. The plan is rectangular, divided into tenements by cross partitions. The S. elevation was re-plastered hite in tlie 17tli. or early in the 18th ceuturv, in panels divided by cabIe-mouldi>d styles and rails. The N. elevation is much patched and a straight joint towards the AV. suggests a 17th- century addition. The E. elevation is close set with much-weathered, brick-nogged studding, possibly of the 10th century or even earlier, and over it sham angle braces have been painted. The W. elevation is plastered and in the gable is an oval panel in which, modelled in low relief, is a form of crowned carbuncle, aj)parently a local stock pattern of the 17tli century. The inside of the house has been much altered. A few old metal casements with simple furniture remain. Condition — Fairly good; much patched and repaired. * (6) . Albury Lodge, a farmhouse about ^' mile S.E. of the church, was built of timber c. 1000, but completely faced with brick, generally altered and enlarged in the 19th century. The roofs are tiled. The original plan \vas of a modified E type; the main block, facing E., probably contained a hall and 30 INVBNTOETf OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE. parlour, with extra parlours in the S. wing and domestic offices in the N. wing. On the W. is a projecting staircase wing, possibly original. The projecting porch on the E. has a wooden arched entrance with arabesques in the span- drels. Several rooms have original panelling, re-set, and on the hrst floor landing is a pilaster with arabesque panels. The small garden E. of the house has a 17th-century brick wall with a moulded brick plinth. In this is a gateway with a rusticated arch flanked by ('ousoles, all in brick. (.'oudition — Good ; much altered. 3. ALDBURY. (O.S. 6 in. (a)xxv. N.E. Wxxv. Ecclesiastical i— '■(1). r.\Ki.sn (JiiURCH OF St. John S.E.) THE B.tPTisT stands near the centre of the village. It is built of flint with stone dressings, tlie latter chiefly modern; the roofs are covered with lead. The narrow Nave pro- bably retains the width of an original nave, a break in the masonry of the S. arcade marking its eastern limit. About 1220 the pieseiit Cliancel was built on tlie E. of tlie older chancel, the area of which was thrown into the nave. The nave arcades and probal)ly the Aisle walls are of early 14th-century date, but may replace older work. The eastern part of the N. aisle is wider than the rest, and this may be connected with the foundation of a chantry here in l.'-i.35. The North C/iafx I was built probably early in the 14th century, but has been much restored. The lower part of the West Tower is of late 14th-century date; the upper part was rebuilt in the 15th century. Tlio SotitJi Porch with U])|)er chamber was coin- jilefely restored in flie lOtli century. The Whittingham monument, with effigies and heraldic shields, and the screen enclosing- it are especially fine examples of IBth-century work of this cliaracter. Architectural Description — The Chancel (27 ft. by 13J- ft.) has one l.lth-century lancet window in the N. wall, and a second, low in tlie S. wall, restored outside. Tlie N. arcjide, tlic E. window, and a window and doorway in tlie S. wall, are modern. At the S.W. is a squint to llie S. aisle. The North Chnpel (27 ft. by l.T ft.) has an E. window of three lijjlits, and n N. window of two lights; in both the tracery has been renewed. The Nar^e (5G ft. by \'^l ft.) has arcades of five bays with arches of two hollow-chamfered orders and octagonal pillars; the two eastern bays of the N. arcade are modern ; only the interiors of the clearstorey windows are old. The North Aisle (\\] ft. at the E. end and 10] ft. at the W.) lias a 14th-ceutury arch at the E. end iipeniug to tlie chapel, and on the N.E. a window, originally of tiiree trefoiled lights of the i4th century, with a fourth light added lu the 15th century. In the N. wall are also two square-headed windows, each of two lights, and a plain doorway; in the W. wall is a window of two lights with tracery; all the stone work of windows and doorway is modern. In the South Aisle (10] ft. wide) the E. bay is cut off by a 15th-century stone screen, enclosing a tomb, both brought from Ash- ridge in 1575. In the S. wall is a window of lour lights, and on each side of the S. doorway a window of two lights, with another in the W. wall, all of modern stonework. The West Tower (13 ft. by 11 It.) is of three stages, with embattled parapet; the tower arch is of the 14th century; the windows of the bell-chamber are modern. The South Porch retains its old stone benches and ])ointed eiitiante, nnich restored. Fittings— Z/cZ/jf .• 1st 1034, 2ud 1(J55, tenor 1G83 ; framework 1081 . Brasses and Tntlents : on E. respond of N. arcade in nave, of John Da vies (■'), 1478, small figure with inscription : in S. aisle, inscription recording the history of the Whittingham monument (see below) and its removal from Ashridge: in N. aisle, slab with indents of a shield and inscription. (iliiss : in window W . ol N. doorway, remains of canopies and lignre subjects, 15th and Idth-centurv. Le» — H I ' 5 c Ale ot Feet |>SOO ■Bl4jO |tSOO I I wodem lUtli-centuiy W. window oi three lights. The ,69, inscription and arm.s only : of Edward Brisko. 1608, and his wife, with inscription : of a man and his wife, two sons and six daughters. IGth-ccntury, no in- siri])tinii : in ihc S. chapel, nf .Tane TTanicr. a child and part of inscription. 16th-century : of a civilian (bead missing), his two wives and two children, early 16th-century, no inscrip- tion : of a civilian and his wife, early 16th- centurv, no inscription : of a woman, without inscription. 16th-century: indents of a man, his wife and children, 16th-century; with brasses of two other wives, imperfect, one with- out u head and the other without feet : of a civilian, the head missing, 16th-century, no in- scription : indents of a tigure, three shields and a scroll : in the nave, a shield with the arms of Stepney and indents of a knight and another shield : indents of a man, wife and inscription, much worn : in the vestry, two pieces of a brass with part of an inscription of 1538, said to be to John Long and his wife, palimpsest, on a 15th-century plate. There are other indents in the S. chapel and N. aisle. Chest: in the tower, large, ironbound. Communion Table: now in the vestry, 17th-century. Font : of Pur- beck marble, with a square bowl on a central stem and four shafts, 13th-century. Monuments and Floor Slabs : in the S. chapel, late 14th-cen- tury monument, consisting of two canopied altar tombs, each with the effigy of a lady; the arms and quarterings of Crowmer carved in the panelled front have been damaged by restora- tion : on the E. tomb, in front, (1) Crowmer, (2) a fesse on which throe roses between six crosslets fitchy, (3) roughly incised cross, prob- ably modern; on the W. tomb, in front, (1) a fesse between throe saltircs engrailed, (2) the same quartered with the second coat on the other tomb, (3) as (1) but wfth a label bearing cross- lots fitchy; in the E. spandrel of canopy, coats (1) and (2) of the E. tomb, quarterly; in the W. spandrel, coat (1) of the W. tomb : in the same X.if-'.— The plan is ro|irodiice\ ft. by 18 ft.) has restored triple lancet windows on the E. and S., a modern double lancet over that on the S., and a single original pointed light on the W. There is a 15th-century arch to the aisle, and on the 8.W. is a circular turret lighted by a cross loop, with stairs to a room once over the transept; its floor level, like that of a similar room once over the N. transe])t, is clearly marked. The Nave (4G| ft. by 13 ft.) is of four bavs, willi moulded dro]i arclies on columns of four clustered shafts having ])lainly moulded capitals and bases. There are three quatre- foil openings in the clearstorey on each side, of tlie same date as the arcades. The W. window is of the 14th century, but has 15th- century tracery; the W. doorway, a rather wide opening, is also original, with moulded jambs and head. The North Aisle (U ft. wide) has two INVENTORY OF TUE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIEE. 35 15th-century windows of two lights on the N., and one on the W.; the original 14th-century N. doorway is now blocked. The South Aisle (10 ft. wide) ha.s the same arrangement of windows, but the S. doorway is of late 15th- century date. The South Porch has E. and "\V. windows of two lights, and walls ornamented with cusped panelling inside; the parapet is embattled, and the four-centred entrance arch is moulded and shafted. The Hoof of the N. aisle is of the 15th century, with moulded principals, etc., and the ceiling of the ground stage of the tower is also of the 15th century, with moulded beams and wall-plates. Fittings— Ce/Z.? .• six; 1st 1700, 4th IGIG, 5t]i 1616, 6th probably 16th-century. Bracket for image: in ttie 8. transept, on N.E., small, 15th-century. Brans Indent : in the N. tran- sept, large cross and marginal inscription, probably early 15th-century. Chests : two; one iron bound, once covered with skin, ])robably raedia!val; the other, plain, possibly l-'Uh-cen- tury. Communion Table : in the N. transept, early 17th-century. fo«f .• square with rounded corners, ornamented with curious figures of two-tailed mermen or figures holding up cloths, late 12th-century. Glass : in W. window of aisle, fragments, white and gold, 15th-century. Monuments : in S. transept on E. side, tomb, with traceried canopy, much defaced, and an effigy of a civilian in a long j-obe, early 14th-con- tury : in N. aisle, to Ralph Jermin. 164(), small, mural : in chancel floor, to Benedict Beaucock, 1635. Niche: in N. wall of chancel at E. end, outside; trefoilcd, original. Piscinae: in tho chancel, large, with double drain and stone shelf, 14th-century: in N. transept, on S.E., small, 14th-century. Screen: in N. transej)t, modern, incorporating n^mains of 15th-century screen. Sedilia : in the chancel, designed to range with jiiscina and windows; first two seats formed by internal sill of window carried low, with jamb shafting, etc.; third seat formed by niche in wall. Stalls: twelve, ends plain, except one moulded and crocketted, early 14th- century; seven carved misericords of foliate and grotesque design, at least three original, and two of the 17th century; the stall fronts, with rusticated arcade in low relief, 17th-ccn- tiiry. MisreJlnnca. : at the Eectory, a purple velvet altar frontal, embroidered, with date 1637, and an early glass liottle, containing traces of human blood (possibly a reliquary), dug up near the chancel. Lych-gatr, in the clnirchyard, mediaeval, of timber, in three bays; one bay has been made into a "lock-up," with red-brick walls. Condition — Fairly good, but needs minor repairs : has been little restored ; no structural weaknesses are visible. Secular:— "(2). Anstey Castle (see illustration), in the grounds of Anstey Uall, N. of the Parish Church, stands about 40U ft. above U.D., at the end of a spur of laud projecting to the S.W. from the watershed of the rivers Stort and Uuin. This earthwork is a particularly fine example of the mount and bailey type. Detailed Description — The Keep mount, which shows no trace of masonry, is a large Uat- tojiped mount standing over 35 ft. alMjve the bottom of its ditch, and covering at its summit nearly j acre. It is surrounded by a wet ditch, from which branches a slighter ditch, also wet, embracing a large bailey on the N.E. Tlie Bailey covers about an acre, and is divided into two enclosures by a scarp, the N.W. portion being 3 ft. above the rest. There are traces of a light bank round the N.W. end of the bailey, and remains of a rampart on the counterscarp of the ditch to the N. On the S.E. face the defences have been partly obliterated by the present road and buildings. Other enclosures : there are remains of a slight enclosure to tiie N.W. of Keep mount. The Barbican mount stands at the S.E. junction of the E. mount and bailey. It is small, flat-topjwd and surrounded 1)V a ditch. Other mounts: there is trace of another small mount close by, on the S.AV. of the Barbican mount. Entrances: the position is not certain. There is an indication of a hollow road to the S.W. of the church. Dimensions — Greatest length through mount and bailey, S.W. to N.E., 550 ft. Greatest width (excluding slight outwork), N.W. to S.E., 480 ft. Condition — Very good. HoMF,sTF..\n Mo.vTS : — a (3). At Pain's End, \ mile N. of the church, a wet ditch. Roughly parallel to the S. face, at a distance of 60 ft.,' are traces of a dry ditch not recorded on the O.S. Condition — Fairly good. '' (4). Half a mile E. of the church, encloses tho Rectory. « (5) . N . of Biggin Bridge, encloses house and garden of Biggin Farm. Unclassiricd: - '■(6). Tr.MLi.is, moated, at Hales Farm. Condition — Fairly good. E 'J 3G INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF DEllTFORDSniRE. 6. ARDELEY. (O.S. 6 in. (<')xiii. >'.W. cWxiii. N.E. Wxiii. S.W. i'').\iii. S.E.) Ecclesiastical:— '(1). R^isii CiUKcu OF St. L.wvrence, stauds OQ high ground W. of tho village. It is built of Hint rubble (most of which is rough- cast) with stoue dressings; the roofs are covered withtilesand with lead. The earliest part of the church is the .Wjcc, wliicli was in existence early in the 13th century, when tho Chancel was re- built and a .VortA Aisle added. The South Aisle was built early in the 14th century, and the West Tower a little later. Towards the end of the loth century the clearstorey and North Porch were added," the aisles were partly rebuilt and new windows inserted in them. In the 19th century the chancel was almost entirely rebuilt and a North Vestry was added. Architectural Description — The Chancel (31 ft. by 15 ft.) has two lancet windows of early 13th- century date, rebuilt in the N. and S. walls. The chancel arch is plain, of two chamfered orders, and is apparently of the 14th century. The Nave (39 ft. by 21 ft.) is of three bays: on the X.E. are remains of the rood-loft stairs with a blocked upper door: on the N. is an early 13th-century arcade of three two-centred arches on octagonal columns, with plain bell capitals : the S. arca:lo is similar, but of early 14th-ceutury date, and its columns are more massive. No detail, and little but the walling over the arches, remains of the original nave. The clearstorev has six windows of two lights each. The North Aisle (10 ft. wide) has two windows of late 15th-century date in the X. wall, and E. and W. windows of an earlier date. The walls and tho N. door are of the 13th century, but the embattled parapet is a later addition. The South Aisle (10 ft. wide) has been less rebuilt than the other. Although externally the windows are of late 15tb-century date, the openings are original. The S. door is modern. The Tower (10 ft. square) is of two stages with embattled parapet. The tower arch, with shafted jambs, and the W. window are of late 14th-century date, but tho windows of the bell-chamber were inserted a centurv later. The North Porch has an entrance archway with shafted jambs and small E. and W. windows. The Roofs of tho nave and aisles are of the 15th century. The principals are moulded, and have carved bosses at their inter- sections ; at their feet are carved angels playing lutes, harps, etc., and the nave principals have traceried brackets. On a beam at the E. end of the nave are traces of colour decoration and the E. half of the first bay of the roof is panelled to form a canopj- over the rood. Fittings — Bells: six; 2nd 1G85, 3rd early 14th-century, 4th 1587, 5th 1(J13, 6th by Henry Jurdeu, late 15th-century. Brasses: on the chancel wall, of Philip Metcalife, vicar of the parish, 1515 : on S. jamb of chancel arch, of Thomas Shotbidt, his wife, four sous and two daughters : in the chancel licx>r, the lower part of a woman's figure and an inscription to John Clerk and his wife, f. 1430. Font: octagonal, of rough workmanship, probably early 15th-century : cover, early 17th-centur}-. Glass: in the windows of N. aisle, fragments, some in situ, 15th-centur3-. ilonutnents : in the chancel, at X.E., 13th-century tomb recess with shafted jambs and dog-tooth ornament, may have been used as an Easier Sepulchre; in the nave, mural monument with marble bust, to Mary Markham, 1G73. Piscina : in the chancel at S.E., with shafted jambs and dog-tooth ornament, 13th-century. Plate: includes two patens of 1078 and 1G90. Scatintj: open seats with poppy-head ends, 15th-century. Condition — Good. Secular: — *(2). HoMESTE.U) Mo.\T, at Gardners, about u mile N.E. of the church. ''-<^(3). Ardeley BfRY, house and vioat, about 5 mile W. of the church. The house is of late 16th-century date, but retains little of its original character. It is built of red brick with some flint; the roofs are tiled. The plan is L-shaped with three towers on the S.E. front. The walls of the hall, on the N.E., are covered to the height of about 6^ ft. with late 16th- century panelling in small squares. Some upper rooms are also panelled. Tho moat is wide, deep and dry, with an inner rampart on the N.W. Condition — House, goinl, much altered. Moat, good, except N.E. corner. <^ (4). The Vic.\k.vge, TV. of the church, is of early 17th-century date with modern additions on the S. The original building is a small rectangular block, plastered externally. In a ground floor room is a carved wckxI fireplace, now painted, i)robably of the 17th century. Condition — Good. a (5). Cromer II.\ll, at the N. end of Cromer village, now divided into two cottages, is of two storeys and an attic, and probably of late lOth- centurydatc. It is timber-framed and plastered, and stands on a brick base. The plan is rectangular, with a central chimney-stack, which has four engaged square shafts, set diagonally. On the "W. side is a gable, beyond which the roof slopes to the level of the ground INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEETFORDSHIRE. f9o 3oo *fo feet ANSTEY CASTLE (parish ofanstey) lllllllllll 10 ?o 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 -"-- -I I 1 I 1 I - ' ■ ■ ■5ca.le of feet for secrions NW SE. 38 IlfVENTORT OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIHE. floor ceiling. An original window, now blocked, with moulded frame, can 1)© seen in- side. The oak ceiling beams, the original stair- case, and many oak doors remain. Condition — Good. "(G). Cromer F.vrm, S. of Cromer village, is a two-storeyed timber and plaster house, on a brick base about 4 ft. high. At each end of the W. front is an overhanging gabled pro- jection. The roofs .are tiled. It was built late in the Kith or early in the 17th century, and has been little altered. The plan is L-shaped, with the hall in the centre; two rooms form the shorter wing, and are separateiii. S.E. Wiv. S.W.) Prehistoric:— '^(1). AuitiRY Banks (Hill Fort), lies ;j mile S.W. of the village, Ix'tween Claybush and Newnham hills, not quite 300 feet above 0. D., and consists of the remains of a rampart and ditch partly enclosing an area of 12J- acres. The defences were fornierlv double on tiie N.W. and S.E., but are now reduced to a single scarp, from 5 — 9 ft. high and S — IG ft. broad; this is better preserved on the S.E. and S., where it forms a bank 5 — G ft. high and 14 — 27 ft. broad. Tiiero were formerly traces of entrances on the NN.W. and SS.E., and of jiit dwellings within tho area. ])imensions — Greatest length, S.W. to N.E., 9150 ft. Greatest width, N.AV. to S.E., 770 ft. Condition — Poor. Ecclesiastical: — '' [2). 1'auisii Church of St. Mary, stands under tho hill at the edge of the great plain stretching N. and E. to Cambridge and the Fens, and is of flint rubble and clunch. The first four bays of the Nave, with clear- storey, and the chancel arch were constructed c. l-i40-5(); the Chancel, West Toirer and Aisles were built, the last bay of the nave was inserted to connect it with the tower, and the clear- storey was completed c. l.!5GO-80. A North ]'('s(n/, since destroyed, was also built in the 14th century. The South Porch, with parvise, was added c. 1420; and in the same century a North Forch was built, and some of the win- dows of the aisle were heightened. During the 19th century the chancel was repaired, and the roofs of tho chancel and nave renewed. The lofty W. tower of four stages, tho un- touched though rather dilapidated condition of the whole fabric, the Ijatiu verses commemo- rating (lie Black Death, and the drawing of wliat is sup|)osed to be old St. I'aul's, scratched on the wall of the tower, are features of peculiar interest. Architectural Description — Tho Chancel (')(tj ft. by V.)\ ft.) has an E. window of five lights, two N. windows and three S. windows, each of three lights; all are of late 14th- century date, with much repaired tracery. In the N. wall are (wo 14th-century doorways, one partly under a window, the other, which led to the vestry, now bl()ckeeen taken down. The large W. window of four lights has lost some of the head traocry, and the rest is repaired with cement. Of the sexpartite stone vault over the first stage only llie corbels and wall ribs remain. In each face of tlie third stage are two lofty w indows with a liandof much defaced tracery below them. The fourth stage, less high and of ])]ainer a])])ear- ance than the other stage, lias four wimlows each of two lights with tracery. The .\orfJi I'orch, an interesting example of 15th-century work, has nnglazed traceried windows, and holes for an oak bar remain in the doorway. Tiie i^oiith Porch, with jmrvise, has unglazed windows with iron stanchions; the stone vault is modern. The jiarvise has been restored, and the stair- turret is now entered from tho ix>rch. The Roofs of the aisles are probably of the 14th cen- tury, and the roof of the 2^. porch is of the 15th century. The chancel roof is modern, and the nave roof is almost entirely of modern timbers. Viiiin^i— Bells : six; 2nd 1094. Brackets: in E. wall N. aisle, of stone, much defaced : in E. wall S. aisle, large, moulded, much broken. Brasses anil liuleuls : in the nave, inscription to John Sell, 1(J18 : in the chancel, three slabs with indents, 15th- century : on S. th aisles, ])robably lemoved from E. end, traceried oak, 15th-cen- (ury. Stalls: remains, including two finials, incorporated in the back of the organ stool, ])ossibly 15th-conturv. Srdilia: in chancel tri|)l(>, with ciiKiuefoilcd and crocketted heads, and foliated finials, c. 1380. Misrcllanrn .- On N. wall of tower, scratched inscription as follows : — M. C ter X. penta miseranda ferox violenta superest plebs ])essima testis oc anno ifaurus in orbe tonat : with glo.sses : over first line, ' pestilencia ' with ' xlix ' over it; over i)en(a ' quinque ' : at end of second line, ' in line " (Y) ventus validus': at end of third line, M. C.C.C. Ixi. Also a drawing, apparently of old St. Paul's Cathedral. Lyrfiffatc: at the S.W. entrance to tho churchyard, of timber, )n-obal)ly 15th century. Condition — Of chancel, good ; Iracery of aisle windows much broken and decayed. Stone- work generally of aisles, and parapets, buttresses 40 INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF UERTFOHDSUIRE. and windows of tlie tower nuuh decayed and weatherworn. Secular; — ll0iIESTE.\D MoATS : 0(3). 'Mobs Hole,' 1 mile E. of Guildeu Mordeu, with a wet ditch, and a smaller moated site in the W. corner. Condition — Fairly good. *(4). N. of Love's Farm, two moats. *(5). At lilucgates Farm, fragment. <* (6). At Westbury Farm, encloses a long narrow island. Traces remain of a further extension on the N.E. High Street, S. side: — ^ (7). Cottage, formerly the ' British Queen Inn,' about \ mile from the church, at the W. end of the street, was built in the 15th century and altered in the 17th centurj'. It is a small rectangular building of two storeys with plastered walls, partly timber-framed and ])ar(lv of harder material; the roof is thatched and is gabled at the E. and W. ends; the two chimney stacks are of thin bricks, but have been restored at the fop. The N. side, facing the road, appears to have been originally the back of the house; in it, near the W. end, are the remains of a 15lh-centuiy stone window of two trefoiied lisrhts in a square bead with a moulded bibel; the E. jamb was destroyed to make room for a modern window; the kitclien, or western- most room on the ground floor, is lighted by this window, and lias a moulded oak l)eam in the ceiling wifh cable ornament on the edges. The j)rincipal entrance is in tlie S. wall opposite the chimney stack, and between the other two rooms on the ground floor; the original oak lintel of the doorway is now in an outhouse; the soffit is cut to form an ogee arch. All the internal fittings of tlie house are modern. Condition — Good. ''(^8). Tlou.tc, of ])lastered timber, was built j)robably in the 17th century, but retains little of its original character, except the two chimney stacks of red brick, with square shafts set diagonally. Condition — Fairly good. d (9). Cottages, S. of the church, on both sides of the street, built in the ITth century, of red brick and of timber and plaster, with projectinsj upper storeys supj)orted on wood brackets. On the S. side "of the street one of the cottages has a pargetted front which bears the date 1681, and the figure of a dolphin. Condition — Fairly good. * (10). F.\RMHorsE, at Ashwell End, about \ mile ^'.E. of the church, is a two-storeyed building of plastered timber, partly decorated with combed work; the roofs are tiled. It is of early 17th-century date, and of the L type. Both wings are gabled; ono contains the parlour, an enclosed staircase and domestic offices; in the other is the kitchen. Between the kitchen and parlour is the original chimney stack. In the interior the studding shows in many places, and the kitchen has a wide fire- place, partly blocked. A few of the doors are made uj) of early 17th-century panelling, and some iron casements with plain furniture remain. Condition — Fairly good. Unclassified:— •1 (11). TiMULis, on Highley Hill. Condition — Poor. 9. ASPENDEN. (O.S. G in. xiii. N.E.) Ecclesiastical:— (1). Parish Church of St. M.\ry, stands on high ground W. of the village, near As]ieiiden Hall, and is built of flint rubble with stone dressings; the roofs are tiled. The Nave and Chancel are probably of late 11th-century date, but the chancel was partly rebuilt and enlarged in the i;5th century, the new work being slightly out of line with the old. The South Aisle is of c. i;i40, and alK>ut half a century later tlic West Tower was built. In the 15tii century the South Chapelwas added, the E. wall of the nave destroyed to make room for the rood-loft, and the other walls of the nave were heigli(eneX KruV KliOM TIIK Sli|-|H; ICth-CKNTI' !! Y. AYU- INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE. 43 century a North Aisle with an arcade of two bays was added. The nave was partly, and tlin Chancel wholly rebuilt, and a North Chajtel added, early in the 14th century. At the beginning of the 15th century the N. arcade was destroyed (one arch being re-set at the W. end of the chapel), the North West Tower was added and the aisle rel)uilt a little further N., widening the nave. The church is of considerable interest on account of its complex history and architectural detail. Architectural Description — The Chancel (30| ft. by 16i ft.) has an early 14th-century moulded arch with shaftetl jambs, opening into the N. chapel. Only small fragment.s of the E. and S. walls remain. On the S.W. are the W. jambs of an internal wall recess and of a window set in it. The chancel arch has been destroyed, but the shafted jambs, of the same date as the arch of the chapel, remain. The North Chapel (30i ft. by 14i ft.) has an E. window of three lights, and two N. windows of two lights, witli hollow moulded jambs; little of the traceiy remains : in the S. wall an archway leads to the chancel, and, on the W., is the re-set arch of the 13th-century arcade ; the responds are made up of circular shafts with foliate capitals, the arch is of two moulded orders, and is badlv distorted : on the N.W. is a rough recess, with what appears to be a flue. ITie Nave (29 ft. by 18 ft.) has no structural division from the N. aisle, and the N.W. bay is covered by the tower. There are two windows in the S. wall and one in the W., all inserted in the 15th century; the tracery has been destroyed. The lower part of the internal jambs of the S. Aocir is 12th-century work, but the rest is of tiic 14th century. On the W. is a blocked door. The Aisle (14 ft. bv 15 ft.) has one 15th-century N. window, in which only part of the tracery remains. The Tower (12 ft. squaie) is of three stages, with embattled jiarapet : on the E. and S. two early 15th- centurv arches of three chamfered orders with shafted jambs, open into the aisle and the nave. On the N. is a small door and a window of two lisrhts, both of early 15th-century date: on tho W. is a blocked window, apparently the W. window of the former aisle, and on the S.W. are traces of a stair-turret now destroyed. The windows of the bell-chamber are also of early 15th-century date, and are much defaced. Tlie Roofs no longer exist, excent on the tower, which also retains an upper floor with moulded wall i)latcs. Fittings — Brachet: In the chapel, on N.E.. for imace, largo, moulded. Brass-Tnrlcnts : in the aisle, of a man and his wife, kneel- ing figures, three sous and five daughters. Font: octagonal, much broken, with a panelled l)0wl, early 15th-centur3-. Image: over the N. jamb of the W. arch of the chapel, small defaced figure inserted in the wall. Monu- ments: in the tower, altar tomb, with a panelled side and defaced remains of effigies of a knight and lady, early 15th-century: in the blocked window of the tower, of Nicholas Ihistow, 1020, with small kneeling effigies of alabaster, defaced. Piscina : in the chapel, on the S.E., ogee-headed, blocked. Plate: now in new church, includes cup of 1059 and paten of 1096. Condition — Ruinous; the N. wall of the chancel is badly out of the perpendiofed. and a North Porch built, and recently the beli- chambor of the tower has been restored. The church is especially interesting as it belongs almost entirely to one period, and also on account of the examples of 14th and 15th- century carving in stone and wood, such as the niches, aedilia, piscinsD and screens. Architectural Description — The Chancel (50i ft. by 2!i ft.) has a modern E. window of five lights, and a S. window of three lights, with restored tracery : in the E. and N. walls, out- side, are traces of windows, probably of early KJth-century date. Two bays of an unbroken arcade, continued from the nave, form the W. half of the chancel, and a break in the thickness of the X. wall marks the junction of the 13th with the 14th-century work. The arcades have two-centred arches of two chamfered orders, moulded labels on both sides with head stops at the junctions, and clustered shafts with moulded bases and capitals. The North Chapel (30 ft. by 22 ft.) has an E. window of five lights in modern stone and, in the N. wall, two 15th-century windows with repaired tracery, and 14th-century labels re-used in- side; on the E. wall is a 14th-century string course, elaborately carved. The ixx)d-loft staircase on the X.W. is replaced b)" a small modern porch, but the upper doorway, blocked, and part of the lower one remain in the aisle. In the South Chapel (28| ft. by 19 ft.) the floor seems to have been lowered : the lower part of the walls is of the 14th, and the u])per part is of the 15th century : the E. window of five lights, and the two S. windows of three lights have modern tracery. The Nave (in ft. by 22 ft.) is of six bays with 14th- century arcades continued from the chancel. Tliey diflPer slightly in detail from the bays in the chancel, the first two being lower than the others. In the X. wall is another rood-loft doorway, now blocked. The 15th-century clearstorey windows are of two lights, and are continued in the chancel. The North Aisle (72 ft. by 22 ft.) has three 15th-centurv windows with restored tracery in the X. wall : the N. doorway is modern. The W rindow is of modern stonework. llie Soutfi Aisle (71^ ft. bv 18 ft.) has windows resembling those of the X. aisle, a 14th-century S. doorway, and a 16th- centtiry doorway to the parvise staircase. A break in the line of the S. wall indicates the ])robal)le junction of the aisle with an earlier transept. Tlie West Tower (Ifjl ft. by 16 ft.) is of three stages, with an embattled ]iara])et, and a lead spire on an octagonal drum, and is now coated with Roman cement. The 14th- century tower arch is two-centred, and of four moulded orders; the W. window of three lights with tracery is of the 14th centurv, but has been restored, and the tracery of the bell- ( hamber windows is repaired with cement. Tlie South Porch has been restorem its foundations, and the Organ Chamber and Vestry were added. Architectural Descri])tion — The Chancel (35 ft. by 10 ft.) has an E. window with old inner jambs anil rear arcli, and modern tracery. In the X. wall are two blocked lancets and a three-light window, and in the S. wall, a lancet and a two-light low-side window; they are all j)robably copies of the old windows. The chancel arch, of early loth-century date, is of two moulded orders, with moulded jambs, capitals aud label. The Nave (G7 ft. by 1!) ft.) has 15th-century N. and S. arcades of six bays with carved label stops ; the capitals in the two arcades ditter slightly in detail : the corbels supporting the roof are also carved, most of them as angels with shields, while three are of men in a crouching posture, aud another is of a woman's head. The clear- storey has five windows on each side. TTie rood- loft stairs in the S.W. angle have been des- troyed, but the doorway remains. The North ;ind Soiifli Ai.ilcs (10 It. wide) have modern windows of 15th-century character, and the S. doorway has been re-worked; the roof corbels resemble those in the nave. The South Porch is modern. The West Tower (14 ft. square) retains its 15th-century archway opening into the nave. The Roofs are modern. Fittings — Brasses: in the S. aisle, of Robert Poynard, 1561, his two wives and four daughters: in the chancel, inscription to Ann, wife of John Eowley, 1613. Glass : in the E. windows of aisles, fragments of Jesse window, 15th-centurv. Flour Slah : in the chancel, to Ann. stHond wife of John IJowlev. 1050. Grare- stnncs : in the churchvard. to Richard Mills. 1698, George Grout, 1678. and Ann Grout, 1684. Piscina : in the chancel. 13th-century. Condition — Very good; much restored. INVENTOIIV 01' I'Uli ilO.NUMliMS 0£ UERliOKDSUlttE. 47 Secular:^ (2). Mount and Bailey Castle, at Peiiwiukle Uill, 2- mile W. of tlie village, stands about 5(J0 ft. alwve O.D. It is now almost level -with the surrouiidihg soil, but the plan is that of a small moated mount with a bailej^ on the N.E., jjaitly sub-dividod by a brancli ti-oni the ditch which surrounds the whole. No traces of ram- parts remain. Dimensions — Length through mount and bailey, S.W. to N.E., 280 ft.; width, 2;i0 ft. Condition — Poor; being on arable land gradual efPacement by ])lougliiiig is inevitable. ((i). Homestead Moat, at Parsonage Farm. (4). Newsells House, nearly a mile N. of the church, is a two-storeyed brick building, prob- ably of late 17th-century date, with modern additions. Tlie plan was apparently rectangular, witli two wings projecting slightly to the S., but in the 19fh century the ground floor space between tlicni was enclosed to form a hall, and other wings were added. A moulded stone cornice, enriched with brackets, and a parapet are carrie ft.) remains; it is timber-framed, on brick foundation walls, with lieavy queeu-])osl trusses of oak rea(diing to llie gabled roof: the exterior has been renewed. Condition — Good. 16. BARNET A'ALE. (O.S. 6 in. xlv. N.E.) No Monuments known. 17. BAYFORD. (O.S. fi in. xxxvi. N.TV.) Ecclesiastical ; — (1). Parish Chtrch of St. Mary, about } mile ^. of the village, was built in 1870 near the site of the old parish church, which has disappeared. Fittings from the old church — Brasses: in the N. wall of chancel, at tlie back of a modern recess, three brasses; two with figures of men in armour; one, thought to be John Knighton, 1545, is a palimpsest cut from a shrouded figiu-e : th* other, name unknown, r. 1590 : the third a shield charged wilh the arms of Knighton, harry ttf eight, on a canton a tun impaling quarterly 1 and 4 Gascoigne, on a pale a fish hauriant, 2 and 3, Pickett or Pigott, three picks; this shield and part of a fourth brass (detached) of a lady, saia to be the wife of John Knighton. 1545, are also palimpsest, both having been cut out of a Flemish brass of a foreign bishop or abbot : two more palimpsest brasses at Upminster Church in Essex, of the same date (1545) were cut from the same figure. 7^o«.<.-late 15th-century; octagonal: bow] with panelled sides ornamented with Tudor roses and a moulded under edge; the base is moulded. M onvmenl : in same I'ecess as the brasses, of George Knighton, 1612, of white marble with lecumbent effigy in armour, and wearing a ruff, trunk hose and jack-boots. Condition — Good. Secular:— (2). HoMESTE.\D Moat, \ mile E. of village. X.W. arm partly filled in, the remainder of (lie ditch is wide and still wet. (3). The Manor House, 8. of the churdi. is partly of early 17th-century date. The addi- tions and alterations made in the 19th century have completely obscuref herring- bone work. At each of the angles are the bases of two pilaster buttresses about 4 ft. in width and 2 ft. in projection, aud in the middle ot each wail is a similar buttress ; they retaiu some ol the ashlar facing which shows the diagonal tooling characteristic ot iSorman work. The remains of the Bailey on the E. consist of a bank (J ft. high, without a ditch, forming a right- aiisrleil salient. The Eidraiuts are not traceable. Dimensions — Greatest length through mount and bailey, S.W. to N.l']., 570 ft. Width across mount, ^. to S., 3aU ft. Average diameter ot Keep mount at summit, 200 ft. Width of bailey, S.W. to N.E., loO ft. Condition — Of mount, good : of keep, ruin- ous; nearly all the rubble facing has been picked off the walls; a large fragment of the W. wall has fallen inside the keep, and another fragment, part of the S. wall, has fallen outside it. The junction of the bailey with the mount, and the defences of both have been obscured on the IN', and W. by e.xtensive alterations to the house and gardens. " (3). The Kectory, about 350 yds. N. of the church, built in 1637, as indicated by a dated stone over the main entrance, is of two storeys and an attic. The plan was rectangular, but c. 1681) a wing was added at the back, making it L-shaped ; in the 19tli century additions were made on the N. and W., and the walls almost entirely re-faced with brick. On the E. front part of a moulded brick string-course remains, and a small projecting ])oreh opens into the hall, which is apparently in its original position. The old kitchen on the S. has been divided into several rooms and a passage; the original fire- place with a wood lintel now has a sale set in it, and the ceiling joists are encased in modern jilastor. On the N. of the hall is the original staircase with square newels and pendants, and turned balusters. The present kitchen is in the wing at the back. The rooms on the first floor have 18th-century panelling, and to each a small powdering closet is attached. The roof timbers in the attic are ceiled. Condition — Good. ''(4). Cottages: a row on the S. side ol llie village green, one known as 'The Priest's House': they are all of late 16th-century date, built of timber and plaster, and have old brick C'himnev stacks: the roofs are tiled. The timber work is exposed only- in the "Priest's House.' Condition — Fairly good; two of the chimueya ale out of the perpendicular. (O.S. 6 20. BISHOP'S HATFIELD. in. <■'•) xxviii. S.E. <*) xxxv. N.E. >■'> xxxv. N.W. Wxxxv. S.E.) Ecclesiastical: — ''(1). Parish Chiech of St. Etiielueeda, stands on high ground on the E. side of the town. It is built chiefly of Hint rubble with stone dress- ings, aud the roofs are tiled. The Chanctl and tho:Vor7-iiiii. INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE. 53 to it is a 15th-ceiitury doorway, inserted when the chapel was widened. The Nave (100 ft. bj' 29^ ft.) has its axial line about (J ft. 8. of that of the chancel. An archway of IJUh-century detail with modern bases and capitals opens into the chapel W. of each transept; there are three modern traceried windows in the N. wall, and three in the S. wall ; the N. doorway is of the loth century, much repaired; the 8. doorway is modern. The North Tran.st[it (25 ft. by \h\ ft.) has a four-light \. window, possibly of the 15tli century, but completely restored, and below it is a doorway; in the AV. wall is a 15th-century doorway with a pointed head, opening into the modern vestry, and S. of it a 13th-century semi-arch or Hying buttress. The Chapel has a modern W. window of two lights. The South Transept (19 ft. by 15^ ft.) contains the oldest details in the building; in the E. wall is a blocked lancet window, and N. of it a large trefoiled recess; both of the 13tli century, and set high in the wall; on the S. side is a four-light window similar to that in the N. transept; the arch in the W. wall is a fine example of work of c. 1240, and appears to have ))een rebuilt in its present position; it is of two orders, moulded with deeply undercut rolls and hollows; the responds are of three engaged round shafts .separated by dog tooth ornament, which has been much restored; the capitals are enriched with foliage, and the bases are modern. The Chnpd W. of the transept has S. and W. winr<7ri/ is of the 18th century, or modern, excejit the large black and white mai'ble mantelpiece, which is original, and is of two orders, Doric and Ionic, with detached circular columns, and, in the panel over the fireplace, a picture in mosaic of Sir Robert Cecil, dated 1608. In the King James's Bedroom is the oak mantelpiece originally in the summer drawing- room; it has square, moulded and enriched baluster columns, with three small lonii! columns above a heavy mantel shelf, and a deep enriched cornice over moulded panels with arabesques. In this room is some late 17th- century furniture completely covered with vcUow damask, g'lueefore he exchanged it for Theobalds. It was built about the four sides of a large square courtyard, with square blocks in the corners, containing staircases. The State entrance was on the E.; an elaborate gatehouse gave access to the forecourt, which occupied about the same position as the forecourt of the jiresent liouse; an archway in the E. wing of INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFOEDSHIRE. 59 I'j- >* 8- W 1^ t- XT', l^- »■ (h if \y- \ 4i &■ G~ - Kj{ !«■ 0- >j- VJ- c- . (^ a- o- u- 0- V, 1(3- o- rter, and on the S. the gatehouse forms two cottages, which have been repaired; on the E. is a long shallow projection containing staircases and offices. The roof is ridged from end to end, and the r ottages aie gabled. \ few original windows remain, of two pointed lights, in moulded brick, but many 61 62 INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE, of the windows, especially ou the W., have woodeu easemeut frames, inserted iu the 17th century, and some are modern. The arch was rebuilt iu a three-ceutred form ou the W. side, iu the 18th century ; on the E. side the original cambered wood lintel remains; it has curved angle-brackets, which give the entrance a four-centred form. On the 8. and W. wall.s of the room over the archway are remains of a late IGth-ceutury tempera painting, repre- senting a lion hunt. Couditiou — Good. *(7). HoLSE, iu the Home Park, Hattield, N. of the church, formerly the Hanger's cottage, was built of timber early in the 17th century, but re-faced with brick later in the same cen- tury; the roof is tilcil. The j)lau is of the K type, with the wings projecting towards the S.; it is a modified example, as the central block is short, and without a porch; it contains the main staircase and a small hall of one storey, which was originally entered from the S. In the W. wing are two iv)oms; the room on the X. is now used as a hall, and a modern porch at the N. end opens into it; a small square projection on the E. face contained a second staircase, of which only the upper part remains; the lower part was destroyed when a drawing-rt>om was added in the 19th century. The E. wing contains the kitchen and offices. There are three gables on the N. front, and the E. and W. wings are also gabled. Only one original window remains, with moulded wood frame and mullions, much restored. A few of the other windows are of the same date as Hie brick rasing, and have transoms and high casements. Iiileiior: The original main stair- case has plain square newels with s])herical heads, a plain handrail and turned balusters. The small staircase iu the W. wing, also original, is steep and of " dog-leg " construction ; I)art of the handrail remainSj with flat balusters cut from boards. Condition — Good ; much altered and restored. '' (8). House, now two shojjs, iu Fore Street, N.AV. of the church, is of two 8tore3'8, the upper overhanging; the walls are timber-framed and ])lastcieil; the roof is tiled. It was built jircjl)- ably iu the 17th century, but has been mucl) restored. Condition — Good. *(9). The Eight Bells In.v, in Park Street. N.W. of the church, is a small house, built early in the 17th century, of plastered timber; the roof is tiled. It is of one storey, with au attic lighted by dormer windows. The interior is modem. Condition — Fairly good; much altered. Mill Green : — * (10). T/te Beehive Inn, and a Collage, ou the road to Ti'win, about a mile X.E. of the church, retain 17th-ceutury chimney stacks. Condition — ^Good; much altered. ''(11). Kentish Lane Farm, on the Esseudon Eoad, about 2 miles S.E. of the church, is a small gabled timber-framed house, built in the 17tli century, and covered with modern plaster; the back is of modern brick; the roof is tiled, with hij)ped ends. The plan is rectangular, ;ind the single chimney stack is original, with lour square engaged shafts, set diagonally. Conilition — Fairly good. 21. lilSHOPS STOUTFORD. (O.S. G in. («) xxiii. N.W. W xxiii. S.W.) Ecclesiastical: — "(1). Pakish Church of St. Michael, on rising ground S. of the High Street, has em- battled walls, built chiedy of Hint with stone dressings. It is entirely of eaily 15th-century date, but is probably on the site of an older church. The West Tower is the latest part of the church, set out beyond th(! AV. end of the .Xiirc, and then joined to it by an extra bay. In the churchwardeus' accounts there is an item for covering the walls of the W. end of the nave and tower with straw and lead in 1431, and another in the same year for levelling the floor of the church next to tiie tower, showing probably that the two ])arts were connected during that year. In the liJth century the upper part of the tower was rebuilt, the North Chancel Aisle and South Vestrji were added, the chancel arch recon- structed, the Organ Chamhtr and chancel clear- storey erected, and the whole building much restored. This ehurch is interesting on account of its unusual size and the goml detail of the inferior. It contains noticeable examples of loth-century carving, such as the quire-stalls, with carved misericords; the stone corbels of the roof. icjireseiitiiig the A])0st]es and various medijeval craftsmen; the label-stops of the arcades, and the label-stops and spandrels of the N. doorway. Architectural Description —The Chancel (43 ft. by 22 ft.) has a modern five-light E. INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE. 63 window and a three-light S. window with original inner jambs and restored tracery, in the North Chancel Aisle (i'6 ft. by 14 ft.) the E. and S.E. windows have 15th-century inner jambs of clunch, probably re-used material from the windows displaced by the chapel. The Nave (85 ft. by 20| ft.) has arcades of six bays with piers of clustered' semi-octagonal shafts and moulded arches, the labels terminating in carved stops; the westernmost piers are wider than the others and have vertical joints fiom base to capital, showing that each pier is the work of two different periods: the inner jambs of the two-light clearstorey windows are original. The North Aisle {UiH. wide) has five N. windows and one W. window, each of three lights with original inner jambs and modern tracery; the N. doorway, also original, has moulded jambs and a pointed arch in a square head; the two spandrels outside are carved in low relief, and may represent a " Doom " ; in one is the figure of a woman with a great eye looking down on her, and in the other an angel holding a trumpet and censer; the moulded labels, inside and out, have stops carved with the symbols of the Evangelists. The doorways of the rood-stair turret I'emain at the E. end of the aisle, but the stairs have been destroyed. The South Aisle (14 ft. wide) has S. and'W. windows similar to those in the N. aisle; the S. doorwav is jwinted and moulded. The Tower (17 ft. by IGft.) isof four stages, with an octagonal loaded spire;; a lofty moulded archway opens from the nave; the original stair-turret in tlie iV.W. angle is no longer used, as a modem turret has been built in the IN'.E. corner; all the stonework is modem, except the W. door- way and the loojis and doorway of the old turret. The North and South Porches have original windows, restored outside. Tlie Bonf of the chancel is dated 1668, but this may refer to repairs, as the traccried trusses are character- istic of the 15th century : the nave roof is coeval with its walls, and rests on stone corbels carved with figures of the Apostles, and angels with shields; the trusses are traceried, with a double rose or a painted shield attached to the soffits of the tie beams. The roofs of the aisles resemble that of the nave, and the stone corbels are carved w-ith human or grotesque figures, representing among others: a gardener with pruning knife and branch, a cook with bone and ladle, a woodman with bill hook and bough, a man-at-arms (?) with halberd, a washerman (y) with a bat, a yeoman, an apish creature with broom and knife or staff, a man with ragged staff, and another with short sword and buckler. Fittings— /ic//.v.- ten, the oldest llVi. Brasses: in the chancel, to Thomas, infant sou of Richard Edgcomb and Mary his wife; 1614, inscription on two brasses : to Charles Denny, 1635, inscription on two brasses. Chest : in vestry, with false lock and two jjadlocks; the real lock taking up the whole of the underside of the lid and having fourteen bolts; early 17th-century. Doors: in N. and S. entrances, original, oak, repaired. Font: I'urbeck marble ixtwl, with shallow panelled sides, late 12th- century. Monuments : in the diancel, to the children of Edward Maplesden, 1684: to -Mrs Cordelia Denny, 16IJ8. Piscinae: in the chancel, trefoiled head, 15th-century, with modern sill: in the 8. aisle, with pointed arch, and a round bowl, damaged, also 15th- century. Plate: includes silver cup of 168:!. Pulpit: oak, hexagonal, with panelled sides, on a central pillar with carved brackets, earlv 17th-centuiy. Serein : greater part of loth- century roo'.E. and S.E. angles are the remains of chambers; that on the S.E. has a ga|> in the vail. The Bailey, much altered, forms a roughly pentagonal enclosure to the S. of the mount. The surrounding ditches have been altered into narrow water channels, except tlie part between tiie mount and bailey. The ( ntrancc was probablv on the S. from the cause- way across the marsh. Condition — Of mount good; of keep. ruinous; the bailev is nearlv levelled. The 64 IN'A'ENTORT or THF. MONTMKNTS OF HEFTFOEDSH1HE. site has been aiquired by tlie I ibaii Distriit Council, and the earthworks and remains ol the shell keep are to be carctully repaired and protected. *(3). HoMEsTKAD Moat, on Piggott's Farm, fragment. " (4). Ca.stle Cott.ace, in the Causeway, near the Castle, is a timber and plaster building of 16th or 17th-century date. Condition — Good; much altered. "(5). St. Joseph's, formerly Wind Hill House, W. of the church, is an early ITth-cen- tury building of two storeys aud attics encased in iSth-century brick walls, much altered and restored in the 19th century. The plan is L- shaped, with the wings projecting to the N. and "W. Inside the house, at the junction of the wings, is an original heavy oak staircase rising to the second floor, with moulded handrail, open carved balustrade, and panelled and moulded newels, of which one (at the top) retains its original square moulded head: the others have modern deal heads. The small entrance hall E. of the staircase is part of the original large hall, and in it are the remains of an orna- mented plastered ceiling. Condition — Good. " (6). The Chantry, in Hadham Road, is a two-storevcd house of plastered timber, built late in the Ifith century; the roof is tiled. The plan is L-shaped, with modern additions to the short wing, in which is the main entrance: a wide archway pierced in the long wing leads to it. The interior has been re-modelled, but in the entrance hall arc some moulded beams of late 16th or early 17th-century date, with running designs in ))laster, and a fragment of coloured plaster work, recently discovered. In the garden the remains of a l-nth-century stone window, of six cinquef oiled lights arranged in iiairs under square heads, may indicate that there was an earlier building on the site. Condition — Good; much altered. Xorth Street, "W. side: — a (7). The White Horse Inn is a 17th-century house, of two storeys, built of brick and plastered timber. The plan is of the L type. On the front the lower storey is of plain brick; the overhanging upper storey, with its flanking gables, is plastered and decorated with square and diamond-shaped panels, con- taining designs in low relief of a ciowned foliate cross, a lion rampant, a two-headed eagle, etc. Condition — Fairly good, interior much altered. WA>TE MORE CASTLE (parish of BISHOPS STORTTORD) 30S- 3ca.lc of feet for scclions <» (8). The Half Moon Inn, is a 17th-century timber house with an original moulded beam and carved brackets under the eaves. Inside the house are some beams with chamfered edges. Condition — Good; much altered. E. side: — «(9). House, Xo. 12, probably of the 17th century, also retains some old beams. Condition — Good; much altered. High Street, N. side: — " (10). The Boar's Head Inn, oppo.er storeys, are also gabled. In the re-entering angles are quarter- circle bay windows, added in the 18th century. On the gable of the W. wing are the remains of an original cusped barge board. Nearly all the earlier windows have been replaced by sashes, but a few old metal casements remain. In the stables are a moulded beam and a defaced carved INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEHTFOEDSniHE. 65 boss of the 15th century. These are not in situ, but appear to have been inserted to repair the ceiling. Condition — Good ; much repaired and altered. o (11). House, now divided into two dwellings (Nos. 10 and 12), N.E. of the church, is a three- storeyed timber and plaster building, of c. 1(500 ; the roofs are tiled. The street front has t«o gables and both the upper storeys project; under the second floor are carved wooden brackets. On the first floor are two oriel windows, and all the windows have wooden frames and mullions. The interior is modern. Condition — Fairly good. "(12). The George Inn is a timber and plaster building of the IGth or 17th century. Condition — Good ; much altered. South Street, E. side : — « (13). TKe Grapes Inn, a house of late IGth- century date, built of timber and plaster, retains an original angle bracket, now concealed behind a square corner. Inside, behind a cup- board, is a four-centred doorway. Condition — Good; much altered. W. side : ^ "(14-15). The Reindeer Inn and Jocelyns House are of the 16th or 17th century. Condition — Of both, good ; much altered. Bridge Street : — "(16). The Bhich Lion Inn is a timber and plaster house of two storeys and an attic, built on a rectangular plan, probably early in the 16th century. On the N. front the upper storey projects, and has a moulded sill enriched with twisted ornament and carried on carved brackets ; the attic storey also projects ; it hag a canted sill with pendants at the ends, and two gables with plain barge boards, and iron scroll finials and oak pendants at the apices. On the upper floor is a row of small lights with moulded oak frames and mullions, and between them are two modern oriel windows; in the gables are small square windows. On the E. side also the iippcr storey projects, and there are two small blocked windows with oak mullions. A little panelling of early 17th- eentury date remains in an upper rocmi, but the interior is otherwise modern. Condition — Good. "(17). The Star Inn is a timber and plaster house of the 17tli century, much restored; it retains an original carved Ijrackct under tlie caves. Condition — Fairly good. " (18). House, opposite ' The Black Lion,' is probably of the 16th century, much altered, and re-modelled externally ; the roof is hipped. A ground floor room has a plaster ceiling with decorative panels, apparently of early 17th- century date. In one of the upper rooms is much 16th and 17th-century oak panelling, evidently not in situ. The panels are all worked " on the solid " ; those of the earlier period are stop-moulded, while the others have mitred mouldings. There is also a panelled door. Condition — Good; much altered. The panal- ling is not well preserved. "(19). Houses, several, opposite 'The Star' inn, built of timber and plaster, are of the 17th century. The roofs are gabled. Condition — Fairly good. HOCKERILL : — - ° (20). House, formerly ' The Old Bed Ijion ' inn, is a 16th-century timber-framed building, of two storeys, plastered externally. The upper storey projects and is carried on two original carved brackets. The beams which support the upper floor inside the house have moulded edges and stops. In one room is some late 16th-century oak panel- ling in small squares, with moulded edges, and Iretween two of the bedrooms is a panelled partition of the same date. Condition — Gooed shafts of narrow bricks. The brick cottdi/f on the S. of the house, was formerly an old pigeon house; it has beeu enlarged and is now used as a lodge. Condition — Good. "(25). TuE Church Manor House, about " mile E. by N. of the church, is of two storeys and an attic, and was built of timber and plaster, probably c. KiUO. on an L-shaped plan, but was almost completely rebuilt in brick early in the ISth century, and much altered at a later date. One window of c. UiUO remains, possibly in situ, with moulded wood mullions, and inside the house is a quantity of panelling of the same date, re-set. Condition — Good; much altered. 22. BOTIXGDOX. (O.S. 6 in. (a)xxxiii. S.E. (»'xxxviii. N.W.) Roman;— « (1). Dwelling House, on the E. side of Boxmoor House, found and planned in 1851. Koman burials have been discovered near it. Condition — Xo remains above ground. Ecclesiastical: — ''(2). P.\RisH Church of St. L.wvrence, stands on high ground on the X. side of the village. It was entirely rebuilt iu 1845, with the exception of the lower part of the walls of the W. tower. Fittings— Z^e//i : three, 1st by Chandler lOr,:',. 2nd by W. "Wbitmore, 1054. Brasses: in the chancel floor, partly hidden by the choir stalls, to Henrj' Maine, 1G05 : to Andrew Mayne, 1621: to Mary Mayne, 1041: to John Hall, 1617. Monuments and Floor Slabs: in the tower, stone effigy, early 15th- century, of a knight wearing pointed bascinet with camail and hauberk, the gypon is ap- ]>arently of leather, but the elbow cops and leg defences are of plate, the sword belt is jewelled; at the feet is a hound; the supjiorting figures at the head and hands are missing : in the chancel, several 17th-century floor slabs, one to James ^fayne, 1642, with marginal in- scription, inlaid marble. Cond it ion — Good . Secular:— '^{'^). Eextstreet Farm, about i mile S.E. of the church, is a rectangular building of timber and brick; the roof is tiled. The lower storey has closelj- spaced vertical timbers, and is possiblj- of late 16th-century date; the projecting upjior storey, with timbers further apart, was probably built at a later date. Condition — Good. 23. BEAMFIELD. (O.S. 6 in. xxix. X.W,) Ecclesiastical;— (i). i'.uusH Church of St. Andrew, stands iu the miildle of the village. The walls are probably of Hint rubble, but are now covered with plaster; the roofs are tiled. Itestorations in 1840 destroyed nearly all traces of antiquity, but the sinq)le plan of Chancel and Nave has probably remained unaltered from an early date. The West Toner was built in 1840 over an ancient well, locally said to- have been a holy well. Architectural Description — The Chancel has a three-light E. window with net tracery, in lloman cement, and two square-headed S. windows, each of two cinquefoiled lights, re- taining much of their late 15th-century stone- work; there is no chancel arch. In the Nave, only the easternmost window in the N. wall, shows any old stonework. Some of the timbers of the chancel Roof are old. Fittings — Bells : two ; 2ud late 14th-cen- tury, by William Founder, with a Latin inscription. Chest: in the vestry, 17th-century. Monument: on N. wall of chancel, of white marble, to George, Viscount Grandison, 1699. Piscina: in the chancel, with trefoiled head, 14th-century. Plate: inchules cup of 1562 ami cover paten of 1617. Condition — Good. Secular;— (2). Homestead Moat, at Bramfieldbury, fragments. 24. lUJ.MGHIXG. (O.S. 6 in. («)xiv. X.W. Wxiv. S.E. Wxiv. S.W. Wxxii. X.W.) Roman;— ill. Sec FXCL.JVSSIFTED lx>loW. Ecclesiastical:— « (2). Parish Church of St. Mary, stands in the X.E. corner of the village. The walls arc of ilint, jiartly covered with cement, and the dressings aro of chinch and stone. The Chancel was built c. 1220, the Nave, Aisles, INVENTOKY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEETFOUDSHIHE. 67 West Tower, iiud .South Porch witli parvise, are all work of the first half oi the lotli century, but possibly the nave retains a few stones of tke early l^th-century building. The North Chapel (now used as vestry and organ chamber) was added early in the 17th century, and has been repaired. Much external stone- work was renewed in the ISJth century. Architectural JJescriptiou — The Chancel (34 ft. by 16^- ft.) has two early 13th-century lancets in the jS'. wall, much repaired; one is blocked, but can be seen in the vestry, into which the other also opens. The other windows and the blocked doorway in the S. wall have been almost entirely restored^ but retain a few ot the old stones inside. The chancel arch, of two moulded orders, is of the 15th century, but the bases and capitals of the jambs are modern. In the North Chapel the E. half of the floor is raised, to cover a vault; the windows are modem. The Nave (63 ft. by IC^ ft.) has loth-century arcades of four bays with com- pound pillars having moulded capitals and bases, and two-centred arches of two orders ; in the wall E. of the N. arcade is a small tref oiled opening into the N. aisle ; in the S.E. corner are the stairs to the rood-loft, with one doorway from the aisle, a second, blocked, at the level of the former loft, and a third opening on to the roof, above which the staircase is carried up in an octagonal turret, finished with an embattled parapet. The clearstorey windows, each of three lights, have 15th- century inner jambs, but are otherwise restored. The North Aisle (12} ft. wide) has an unglazed E. window of three lights with old jambs and modern tracery, opening into the vestry; the three N. windows and the W. window are all of the 15th century, each of three lights with modern tracery; the N. doorway is blocked, and its label stops are decayed. The Smifh Aisle (15 ft. wide) has windows resembling those in the N. aisle, and an original S. doorway, with moulded jambs, a pointed arch in a square head, and a label with defaced head stops. The West Tower (14 ft. square) is of four stages, with square angle buttresses to the lower stages, an embattled parapet and a slender leaded spire. The lofty pointed tower arch is of c. 1420; in the W. wall is a square-headed doorway with traceried spandrels, and above it is a three- light window with modern tracery. The ihird stage has small quatrefoil lights, and tlie lu'll- chamber has tall two-light windows with traceried heads, all repaired. The South Porch, wnth parvisp. is higher tlian the S. aisle. It has gabled square liuttresses at the angles, and an embattled ])arappt with crocketed corner pinnacles; the doorway has a pointed arch under a square head, and the side windows are of two lights wdth traceried heads, repaired. The floor has been removed from the upper room, which has a square-headed S. window of two lights. The chancel Koof has old trussed rafters with three modern arched braces; the nave has a 15th-century roof with plastered l)anels, moulded ribs, carved bosses, and figures of angels at the feet of the intermediate trusses; the E. bay is more elaborately treated than the others and its colour decoration has been renewed; the aisles have 15th-centurj' roots of similar detail, with trusses supported on stone corbels carved as angels holding .shields; the old timlx-rs remain in the flat roof of the N. chapel, with an inscription painted on the wall plate recording the building of the chapel by Simeon Brograve (ob. 1038). ' Fittings— Belh : eight; 4th 1628, 5th 1562, 6th 1615, 7th 1653, and 8th 1631. Brasses: on the E. wall of the S. aisle, of a civilian and his wife, c. 1485 : on the floor, to Richard Grene, inscription only, 1561 : to another Richard Grene, inscription and heraldic shield, 1610 : of Barbara Hanchett, with in- scription, 1561 : lower half of woman's figure, probably late 15th-century. F07U : modern : at E. end of N. aisle, recently replaced in the church, disused font, early 14th-century, muti- lated; with flat wood cover, early I7t]i-(eii- tury, much decayed. Monuments: on K. side of chancel, to John Brograve, died 1625, and his younger brother Charles, died 1602, alabaster and marble, witii round-arched recess, in which are their recumbent effigies in armour; their armorial bearings are in a cartouche above the recess: on wall, same side, to Simeon Brograve, 1638, and Dorothy, hi.-* wife, 1645: onS. wall to Augustin Steward, 1597, alabaster, bust in armour: to Sir .John Brograve, 1593. Niches : on each side of W. doorway, niche for image, with canoi)ied iiead and foliated finial : in S. wall of parvi.so, two niches with foliated arches under square heads. Paintings : at W. end of N. aisle, large picture of the Resurrection, probably part of 17th-cen- tury altar piece, recently discovered and placed in present position. Plate: earliest pieces 1718. Seating : in the nave, a few buttressed bench ends and fronts, oak, 16fh-ccntury. Sloup: in S.E. corner of porch, with a round basin, slightly broken. Condition— Good substantially, much re- stored ; a few of the stones outside are dorayed : on the tower and S. porch is a great deal of cement, which is .scaling off the walls of the porch. 12 68 I.WEXTOUY OF TUE MOXUMEKTS OF U EETFOEDSUIRE. Secular:— Homestead Moats : — " (3). At S.W. coruer of Turk's Wood, nearly circular, with entrance on S.W. Coudition — Good. ' (4). At Hobb's Farm, fragment. *(5). At Cockbampstead. <■• '' (6). Upf Hall, house, barn, and moat, 1 mile 8.E. of the church. The house is of three storejs, and built of red brick, the roofs are tiled. The greater part is of early 17tb- century date, and is half H in plan, the wings being on the E.; the space between them has been filled in by a modei-n hall, and a modern wing has been added on the N.E. The A\^ front has two gables, with plain brick copings of later date; under the northernmost gable is the main entrance, the marks of its junction with a former porch being visible in the wall on each side; the door, with four-centred arch and good strap hinges, is original, but partly re])aircd, and is llauked by jjilasters sujjporting a pedi- ment : the plinth and two moulded string- courses which mark the first and second floor levels are cut otf square at the N. end, and the return wall is modern, indicating that the house once extended further N.: the windows on the ground and first floors are unusually wide, and have modern oak mullions and transoms : in the gables are smaller windows of three lights, with brick hood-moulds, and above them arc small bullseye openings : near the S. end is a blocked niche or hole a few feet above the ground (see also barn). The S. end of the main block and both the E. wings are gabled ; the northernmost wing contained the original stair- case, now destroye-, which was burnt down in 1891, the following': — Brasses : in the IST. transept, fragment of man's figure, feet remain, 15th-century: inscription to Thomas Boole, 145G : inscription in French to Jolin Hunger, 14-35, once Master Cook to (iuccn Katheriue, wife of Henry V. Secular:— Homestead Mo.\t : — * (2). At Brickendonbury, fragments. «(3). The Walnuts^ Castle Street, built probably c. 1650, but much altered at later dates, is a two-storeyed house of brick and timber; the roof is tiled. The plastered street front may be of late 17th or early 18th-century date; a few original metal window casements remain. Condition — Good. <» (4). Bridgem.\n House, No. 37, "West Street, is a red brick building of two storeys and an attic; the tiled roof was originally hipped at both ends. The house was built c. IGfiO-SO, and is now divided into two tenements; the plan is rectangular, with a central chimney stack; at the W. end is a modern addition, of which the face is Hush with the original N. wall. The N. front is divided into seven bays by tall shallow panels; the two containing the win- dows have segmental heads, and the others semi-circular heads, with plain ]irojecting imposts and keystones. The windows have modern mullioned frames. The ])orch in front of the principal entrance in the middle bay is original ; it is of oak, and has at the corners round pillars, with mouldeitals and bases. There is no chancel arch. The North Chapel (34 ft. by 10 ft.) has an E. window of three lights with tracery and a four-centred main head; in the N. wall are two similar windows and, between them, a door opening into the vestry; over it is a blocked window Ijn'ENTORT OF THE MONUMENTS OF nEnTFORDSniRE. originally opening into the upper floor of the vestry. There is no structural division between chapel anil aisle. The Vestnj, which is built on to the N. chapel, between the two N. windows, is of the same date and design, and both structures have a continuous parapet ornamented with cusped panels and the arms of Say, Hill and Fray. The inscription : " Pray for the welfayr of Sir Wyllyam Say kuyglit wych fodyd yis chapel in honor a ye treuete the yer of our Lord God 1522," is carried round the external and re-entering angles of the parapet. The vestry is lighted on tlie N. and W. by small traceried windows. The South Chapel (34 ft. by 10 ft.) has one traceried window on the E. and two on the S, Externally the joint between the earlier and later work is clearly visible. The Nave (68^ ft. by 17 ft.) is of four bays with N. and S. arcades in continuation of the chapel arcades, which they resemble in detail, though thev are of the same date as the aisles. The North Aisle (10 ft. wide) has a small half- octagonal turret at the E. end of the N. wall, with stairs leading to the rood-loft and the roof. In the W. wall is a small loophole and in the N. wall are four windows of two lights with tracery. The South Aisle (10 ft. wide) has, in the S. wall, four windows similar to those in the N. aisle, a small modern doorway, and an original doorway with continuously shafted jambs; the two-centred moulded "W. West Tower is of three stages with an embattled parapet, and a turret staircase on the S.W. The tower arch is of two moulded orders, with shafted jambs; the two-centred moulded TV. doorway has a square outer order, and the window over it is of four lights with tracery; the bell-chamber windows are of two lights. The South Porch lias a doorway with a semi- circular head and flanking pilasters sup- porting a seErmental pediment of classic design ; over it is a shield charged with three staffs. The Roofs of the nave and aisles are of the I'lth century, much restored; those of the chancel and N. chapel are of early Ifith-centurv date and have ])anell('d ceilings. Over the E. eiul of the nave is a ])aini('d inscriiition, ])robalilv of early lOth-ceiitury date, wliicli records the ceil- ing and painting of t!ie chancel roof by John Brvce. The floor of tlie vestrv is also original. Fittinijs— /???/«.- eight; 4th, 5th, and 7th 1015, Sth ITiTO. Brncl-ets : for images, on each side of the E. "Window of X. chapel. Brasses : in the chancel, nf a priest, in chasuble, late 15th-century, without inscription : of a priest, in cassock and amice, with symbols of the Evangelists, early lOth-century : in the nave, indent of a knight and lady, part of knight effaced : a shield, vair bordered crusily, dated 1(J30 : of a knight, carrying mace, said to bo John Borrell, Sergeant-at-Aims to Henry VIII. (See also Monuments.) Chest : in upper room of vestry, two, carved, 14th and 17th-century. Door: to the vestry, with ironwork, original. Fotd : octagonal bowl on circular shafts, bowl ornamented with round-headed panels. Pur- beck marble, late 12th-century. Glass: in S.E. window of S. chapel, shield, 15th-century. Monuments and Floor Slabs : on S. side of the chancel, altar tomb of Sir John Say and his wife, 1473, with moulded panelled plinth, and moulded slab with large brasses of the knight in elaborate plate armour with close-fitting, short-sleeved surcoat charged with his arms; and the lady, wearing butterfly head-dress, sideless gown and long mantle charged with her arms elaborately engraved, and retaining much of the original colour; two shields remain with the arms of Say, one with helm and mant- ling; the head of the knight is missing and the brass marginal inscription is imperfect. On N. side of chancel, altar tomb of Sir William Say, early 16th-century, the plinth decorated with cusped panels containing shields with indents.of ten small figures; at tlie angles are octagonal columns carrying a crested canopy; the soffit is carved to re]irescnt fan vaulting; under the canopy at the E. end is a slab with indents of the knight and ladv, etc. : in S. chapel, large monument to Sir Henry Cock, keeper of the wardrobe to Elizabeth and James I., 1009, and his wife, with recumbent effigies, in alabaster, much mutilated, under a curved jiediment ; on base, figures in relief of two daughters and their children: in chancel, mural, to AVilliam Gamble, alias Bowyer, 1558, with inscription and arras: in N. -chapel, mural, to Sir R. Skeflington, 1040: to John Baylie, 1009, his wife and children, with arms: in various parts of the church, 17th-contury floor slabs, of which many are to members of the llawdon and Monson families. Niche, for tomb, in S. chapel, late 15th-centurv. Piscina: in S. chapel, of same date as TV. bay, partly destroyed when niche for tomb was built. Plate: includes cup and cover paten, 1000, and paten, 1033. Stoups : in S. porch, of rough workmanship : in S. aisle, E. of S. door, recess for stoup. Condition — Good. much repaired; the window tracery is nearly all of modern stone. Secular:— ''(2). TiiK Ckd-aks, in the High Street, is an 18th-century house, but contains an early 17th- century n])pn well staircase, re-set, of three INVENTORY OF THK MONUMENTS OF UEUTFOUDSIIIHE. storeys, with three flights to each storey. The newels are large, square and ([uite plain, with square moulded urns and siakes as linials and jieudunts. The handrail, very heavy and not moulded, is carried on turned liahisteis of moderate size; the soffit, string, clc, aie [ilain. Condition — Good. "(3). liuoxBUENKiiURv, about u mile W.N.W. of the church, is a red brick and stone house of two storeys autl an attic ; the roofs are covered with tiles, slate and lead. It was built origin- ally at the end of the IGth century, and is of the courtyard type, the main entrance being on the E. A square block, with a simjile classical cornice, was added on the \V. late in the ITth century, and additions and alterations were made at various later dates. In the 19th cen- tury the house was almost entirely rebuilt, but fragments of old brickwork remain in the walls facing tlie courtyard. A chimney stack on the ^., with V-shaped pilasters of brick, is original, but the top has been rebuilt ; parts of the chimney stacks on the W. may also be old. All the windows are of the 18th century or modern. The interior has been almost completely altered, but the kitchen and offices in the N. wing are ju'obably in their original position. In a room on the first floor of the W. wing is a late Kith- century fireplace of clunch, which has a four- centred opening of three moulded orders, the outer order being square ; the stops on each side are splayed and the bases moulded. Condition — Good; rebuilt o (4). Baas Manor House, about a mile W. of the churcli, is a brick and ])lasterpd timber, rectangular building of early ITth-ccntury date, with gabled ends; the roof is tiled. The house is now divided into two tenements, nuuiy of the partitions being jirobably modern; the exterior is also almost completely modern; one original doorway with a chamfered four-centred head, and one window, with moulded wood mullions and frame, remain, both somewhat mutilated. Condition — In poor re])air; much defaced and altered. " (5). The Gables, on the E. side of the main road S. of the village, a two-storeyed timber house, of T-shaped plan, built c. KiOl), is now covered with ])laster, and has a modern gabled front. The two brick chimney stacks are original, but repaired at the top; the central stack has engaged square shafts, set diagonallv, the other is a i-ectangulnr block. Some of the rooms have old, exposed ceiling beams, and in one room is a wide, open fireplace. Condition— Good. !'((}). The Bull I.\n, on the W. side of the main road in tiie middle of the village, is a ITth-ccnt my building of timber and [ilaster. The plan is L-shaped, anod; veiy much restored out- side; the ivy gi-owing on tlie tower maj' do some damage in the future. Secular:— 1I0MESTE.\D Mo.\TS : 0(2). S.W. of the church, fragment of a circular moat. *(3). In Burhill Wood, a stirrup-shaped, dry ditch, with an entrance on the N. Condition — Good. 30. BUSHEY, Ri'R.4L. (O.S. (J in. (") xxxix. S.W. l'') xliv. N.E.) Ecclesiastical: — '^ (1). Parish CiiiRiu ok St. J.\mks, stands at the S.E. end of the village; the walls are of flint with stone dressings; the roofs are tiled. The Chancel was built earJy in the VM\ century, and the Nave was of the same date, but none of the original walling remains; the ireing modern ; in the western bay is a much repaired three-light window of late l;5th-centur_y date, now opening into the organ chamber. There is no chancel arch, but in its ])lace is a 15th-century cambered beam support- ing a })lasterem E. to W.) is divided from the rest of the nave by a wall which carries the E. wall of the tower, and is pierced by a two-centred moulded arch with shaftM jambs; from this dividing wall to the W. wall, within the N. and S. lines of the nave, spring arches of two cham- fered orders, which support the X. and S. walls of the tower, the W. wall 1x>ing carried by the W. wall of the nave. The Tnvrr rises one stage above the nave, and is finished with a plain parapet; the belfry windows resemble the W. window of the nave. The South Porch (9\ ft. by 7 ft.) has a moulded shafted entrance arch- wav, and two single-light windows on the E. and W. Fittings— /ie//.t.- one, by Eobert Oldfeild, H>30. Font: octagonal, 15th-century, orna- mented with traceried panels and shields bear- ing the heraldry of the Passion. Glass: in E. window, a panel, with white and gold ornament, 15th-century : in S. window of nave, part of a kneeling figure in a blue gown. Plate: includes cup of 15b!) and paten of ItilJti. Seafinff : in the nave, some plain open seats, 15th-century. Stall p : in the porch, of rough design, under a richly crocketed, spire-shaped canopy, much defaced, not in situ. Condition — Fairly good ; nnich of the old detail, especially the window tracery, has been restored with cement. Secular:— Homestead Mo.\t: — (2). At Caldecote Farm, fragment. (3). The Old Kectory, about 50 yards X.W. of the church, is a two-storeyed cottage of plastered timber, built late in the Kith century; the roof is tiled. The plan is L-shapcd, and both wings have gabled ends. The exterior has been partly re-plastered and the interior much altered ; the heavy moulded beams which carry the floor over the parlour are the only original details. Condition — Fairly good. 33. CHESIirXT. (O.S. 6 in. (")xxxvi. S.E. ('''xli. X.E. Wxli. S.E. W)xlii. N."W.) Despite the old name of Cestrehunt, no trace of permanent Koman occupation has been proved here. Ecclesiastical:— '(1). 1'aimsii Church of St. Mary, stands on the W. side of the town. The tower is built of ashlar, and the E. wall of the chancel is of flint rubble; the other walls, except in the modern parts, are also probably of flint rubble, but are coateitwith cement. The church was entirely rebuilt between 1418 and 1448, by Xicholas Dixon, Kector, as recorded on a brass in the chancel, and no details of the earlier building remain. The \orth Chapel (or Vestry) has some re-used 17th-century brickwork, but is practically modern, as are the South Chapel and South Porch. Much restoration was carried ..ut between 1872 and 1802. .\nhitectural Description — ^The Chancel (45 ft. by 21 ft.) has a large traceried E. window, uKMiern except the inner jambs: the side wal.a rHESTTTXT: THK r;Ri:.\T TiorsK. INTKKKlI; OF HALL. SHdWINC 1.')T1I-CKX'1 I" II Y ItOOF. INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE. and arcades arc also of the l!)th century; tlie 15tb-century chauiel arch has shafted jambs with moukled bases and capitals. The Nave (74 ft. by 22 ft.) has N. and S. arcades of five bays with piers liaving engaged shafts of Pur- beck marble; in the E. respond of the N. arcade is a small low 15th-eentury archway, with open tracery, wliich gave a viewof the nave altar under the rood-loft; in the ojjposite wall is a modern copy of the archway, and above it an opening to the former rood-loft. The clearstorey has two- light windows with some modern stonework. The North Aisle (9i ft. wide) has five 15th- ceutury N. windows of three lights with tracery, all repaired with cement; the W. window has been blocked by an 18th-century monument. The South Aisle (91 ft. wide) has two 15th- ceutury, and two modern S. windows resembling those opposite. The West Tower (16 ft. square) is of three stages with low buttresses, and an octagonal turret at the iS.E. angle rising above the embattled parapet, and entered from the nave : the lofty tower arch has central engaged shafts with moulded capitals and bases : the lowest stage has two side wineth Garnett, wife of Edward Collen, 1609, kneeling figure: of a woman, late 15th-centuiy, with in- dents of man, insciiption, and children : of another woman, 15th-century, no inscription : indent of a knight, and shields, late 15th-cen- tnry : on the N. wall above these slabs, to Con- stance, wife of John Parre, 1502, inscnption possibly belonging to one of the brasses. Chest : in the tower, iron bound, with three locks, probablv of late 1 fith-century date. Font: late 12th-ceniury bowl, with trefoiled panels, apparentlv modern, cut in the sides; stem and base modern. Glass: in the tracery of a window in N. aisle, white and gold roses, 15th- century. Moinimcnts : on N. side of chancel, large tomb with recess to Iloliert Dacres, erected 1543; altered and repaired by Sir Thomas IJacrcs, 1641; other names ou the tomb are George Dacres, 1580, and Sir Thomas Dacres, 1615 : in E. wall of S. cha])cl, to Henry .\tkins. pliysiciau to James I. and Charles I.. 16.'i8: on S. wall of S. aisle, to John Kobinson, 1661: on W. wall, to William liobinson, 1686, and his two wives, 1676 and 1694. Piscinae: in the chancel, with part of the bowl cut away, 15th-century: in the S. aisle, of rougher work- manshij), date uncertain. Plate: incdudes a silver cu]) anTK.\o .Mo.\Ts: — « (2). S. of Factory Farm. * (3). In Hell Wo levetted with a brick wall, and the abutments of a bridge are traceable. Condition — Good. •^(G.) S.W. of Theobalds Park Farm. '' (7). At Nunnery Farm, fragment. ''(8). J mile S.S.E. of Cheshunt Station, small dry moat. '' (9). CiiESHi'XT (JnF..\T HorsE and Moat, about J mile N.W.of the church. 'I'lie house is a rectangular two-storeyed structure of red brick, with a tiled roof. It is all that remains of a large building of courtyard type and late 15th- ceiitury dale, and oiiginally formed part of the Iv wing. A stone mullion(Ml window in the N. K'able, now blocked, indicates work of r. IfiflO, but the house has been much altered in the 18th i "ntury, and little can be made of its history. The hall is especially interesting as it retains a fine examjile of an open timber i-oof of late l')th-century date. The hall, occupying the S. half of theexisting building, is encased on the E. and W, with 78 INVENTORY OF THE MONrMENTS OF HEHTFORDSHIRE. 18th-ceuve the ground. 1 ft. 9 in. high. 1 ft. wide and 10 in. deep, with tiiangular liea and the initials (i.ll.K. Condition — Fairly good. ''(17). No. 4, Blim) Ma.n's La.ne, a house and shop, formerly a farmbouse, is a two-storeyed, red brick building of <•. I(i75; the roof is tiled, and at each end of the main front is a gable. There are two chinuiey stacks at the buck. Condition — Fairly good. ''(18). Cottages, a row at the E. cud of Church Lane, possibly of the 17tli century, have chimney stacks built of the thin bricks uf that period. Condition — Poor. Churchgate: — ''(19). House, about 100 yds. E. of the church, built of brick in the second half of the 17th century, forms three tenements; the roof is tiled. The gables at the ends have plain copings and small moulded brick kneelers. 'J'he windows, with flat wwnlen frames and transoms, have metal casements, whicii retain their original furniture. Condition — Fairly good; much altered. ''(20). Houses, several, on both sides of tlie road, E. of the church, probably of the 17th century, are timber-framed and plastered, and have overhanging xipper storeys. Condition — Good. ''(21). The Green Dnujon Inn, E. of the church, probably built in the 17th century, is timber-framed, but the outside is now encased with brick; a few of the original beams are \ isible inside the house. Condition — Good. ''(22). The Plough I.nn, at Flamstead End, on the W. side of the road, built in the 17th century, is a long, timber-framed Louse, plastered externally; it is of two storeys, the upper projecting (ui the S. siosite the church, now usests are two old stones carved with a crest, the initials J. P. and the date 1G79. Condition — Good. COD- INVENTOEY OF THE MONUMENTS OF BLEETFOUDSHIRE. 81 35. CHORLEY WOOD. (O.S. 6 in. ('')xxxviii. S.W. Wxliii. N.W. Wsliii. N.E. (*xliii. S.W. Wxliii. S.E.) No Monuments known. 36. CLOTHALL. (O.S. G in. viii. S.W.) Ecclesiastical:— (1). Paeish Chuech OF St. Maey stands near the top of the hill N.E. of the village; the walls are of Hint rubble with stone dress- ings; the roofs are tiled. The date at which the Nave, the earliest part of the church, was built is uncertain, but it was prob- ably in the 12th century; the Soxdh Chajiel was added c. 1350; a little later the Chancel was rebuilt, and a South Tower added immediately W. of the chapel, the ground stage forming a South Porch. In the 19th century the North Vestry was built, and the church considerably repaired. Architectural Description — The Chancel (27 ft. by lOi ft.) has in the S. wall a small blocked doorway; all tlie windows have been restored, but possibly retain a few 15th-century stones ; the chancel arch, probably of the 14th century, is covered with cement. The Nave (36| ft. by 19 ft.) has, in the N. wall, two win- ening into the chapel is of two bays with arches of two chamfered orders, and octagonal shafts with moulded capitals and bases. The South Chapel (17 ft. by lb\ ft.), now used as an organ chamber, has a modern E. window and S. doorway; the AY. arch and the arch opening into the nave resemble the chancel arcade in detail. The Nave (4G ft. by \~\ ft.) has, in the N. wall, a lancet window which may be of early 13th-century date, much restored ; the other windows, with those of the clear- storey, which was probably built in the 15th centurj", are of modern stonework. The S. arcade of four bays has similar detail to that of the chancel arcade, but the bases are apparently of the 13th century. The Soxith Aisle (Qi'ih ft. by 13 ft.) has three windows and a doorway of the 19th century in the S. wall, which is 3 ft. 8 in. thick, except at the western extension. The West Tower (14 ft. by 13 ft.) is of three stages, with a stair-turret at the S.W. angle rising only to the top of the ground stage, which has walls 5 ft. 2 in. thick. The heavy, 15th-century tower arch is of two orders; the W. doorway and the three-light window above it are of 19th-century stonework, and the windows of the bell-chamber are much restored. Fittings — Doors: on the S. door, iron scroll work, possibly 12th-century: on stair turret door in the tower, old strap hinges. Plate : small engraved cup, 1558, cover paten, 15()S. Pulpit: hexagonal, with carved panelling, early 17th-century. Condition — Good, owing to extensive re- storations. Secular;— * (2). The BrRT, about 200 yards S. of the church, is a red brick house, of three storeys and basement, with a plain parapet and a low- pitched roof, built about the middle of the 17th century. On the S.W., or main front, the walling of the lower storeys is divided into large arched panels, and the doorway is flanked by brick pilasters and niches, now covered with cement. The rest of the walling is quite plain. The plan is almost square, and has a room on each side of the cntranco lobby, which leads into a square hall, enlarged by a third room l)eing thrown into it. At the back are the kitchen, offices, etc. Interior — Two rooms on the ground floor and one on the first floor have 17th-century panelling and carved overmantels. One fireplace has a cast-iron tircback ornamented with Heurs- dc-lis; some of the rooms have original doors, and in the ceilings are some rough beams. The staircase, reaching from the ground to the second tieor, is of the 17th ceutuvy, and Juis square newals with ornamented tops and pendants, and a massive moulded handrail with flat carved and moulded balusters; these are all repeated on the side against the wall. Condition — Good. * (3). The George axd Dragon Inn, on the main road about \ mile S.W. of the church, is a narrow rectangular building of the 17th century; the walls are of brick and timber; the roofs are tiled. The upper storey projects at each end of the front, which is covered with modern rough-cast, and has three gables ; the back, also with three gables, retains some of the original plaster. The two brick chimney stacks have square clustered shafts, partly restored. All the windows have been restored. Inside the house are a few old beams and, in the parlour, a large open fireplace. Condition — Fairly good. * (-4). Cottage, adjoining the S. end of the ■ George and Dragon,' originally one of a group, is a small, 17th-century building, one room wide, with an overhanging upper storey; the front is plastered, and the roof is tiled. The shafts of the two chimney stacks are built of thin roofing tiles ; one is square, the other octagonal with concave sides. Condition — Both the chimney stacks need re- pointing, and one is in danger of falling over. '' (5). TSvo CoTT.\GES, on the W. side of the main street, almost opposite the ' George and Dragon,' are two-storeyed, 17th-century build- ings of brick and timber, with modem brick bases; the front of one cottage is plastered; the roofs are tiled. The only original chimney stack has two square shafts set diagonally, built of tliin bricks. Condition— Fairly good. <^(6). Drivers End Farm, about | mile N. of the church, is a small, 17th-century building of two storeys, the lower of brick, the upper of plastered timber. It is of rectangular plan, with a central chimney stack, built of thin bricks. On the ground floor are two rooms with lobby, chimney stack and staircase between them. The kitchen has an original fireplace, now reduced to take a modem grate, and with its chimney-corner seats inside small cupboards; in the ceiling is an old, heavy beam. Condition — Good. t;ui — IMVENTOEY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEBTFOBOSHIRE. 83 "(7). Lower Faem (formerly 'Troopers Stables'), nearly a mile N. of the cliurcli, is a small, two-storeyed house of late IGtli-century date, facing S.E. ; the lower storey is built of Hint with brick quoins and a brick plinth, except th© N.E. end, which is of modern brick; the S.W. wall of the upper storey is covered with rough-cast, and the other walls are of timber with brick filling ; the roofs are tiled. The plan is rectangular, with a projecting porch wing on the S.E. face, and a small wing containing the staircase at the back; the central chimney stack carries a rectangular shaft, built of thin bricks, with pilasters on both faces. A blocked door- way on the first floor and the modern brick facing on the ground floor, at the N.E. end, suggest that the building once extended further in this direction. Inside, the house retains the original fireplaces, though all, except one, are partly filled in; oak doors, some with the old strap hinges; wide oak floor boards^ and two heavy beams in the ceilings. The newel stair- case is of oak, and is also of the 16th century. In the farmyard is an old barn, timber- framed, partly brick-nogged, partly weather- boarded, with two original trusses in the roof. Condition— Of house and barn, poor. « (8). The West Lodge of Kneb worth Park is largely constructed of old material taken from Knebworth House in 1811 (see also Kneb- worth). It is of brick with stone dressings, and consists of two small blocks connected by arches spanning the drive. A stone tablet records the re-setting of these arches from the old gate house; they are four-centred, of two continuously moulded orders, and of early 16tli- century date, much restored. Two windows of the same date have also been re-set, and are of two pointed lights imder a square label. At one corner of the building an octagonal turret has a door with a four-centred moulded head, and what appears to be a rehiis on the name of Lytton in one of the spandrels. Condition — Fairly good; much defaced wfth cement. 38. COTTERED. (O.S. G in. Wxiii. N.E. (»)xiii. N.W.) Ecclesiastical; — <»(1). PAEisn CnrRcn of St. John the Baptist, near the middle of the village, is built of flint rubble with stone dressings, and is covered with cement; red brick is used in the N. wall of the vestrv; the roofs are of lead and tiles. The Chancel, Nave, West Tower and Sonth Porch were all built c. 1350; the North Chapel and the windows and roof of the nave are of the 15th century. In the IGth century the North Vestry wa« added, and the chancel windows renewed. The church was thoroughly restored, and the chancel re- roofed in the 19th century. Architectural Description — The Chancel (<35^ ft. by 16 ft.) has a modern E. window; on the N. is a 15th-century arcade with much of its stonework renewed, and in the S. wall are two square-headed windows, probably of early 16th- ceutury date, but one is inserted in a wide 15th- century window, partly blocked; in the same wall is a blocketl doorway; the chancel arch, of c. 1350, has been repaired, and its responds thrust out of the perpendicular. The North Chapel (22i ft. by 13 ft.) has two wide 15th- century windows with modern tracery, and a doorway, also of the loth century, but with a modern arch. In the S.W. corner about 6 ft. above the ground is an opening into the nave; it is probably of the 14th century, but has a modem arch. The Vestry (13 ft. by 12| ft.), E. of the chapel, has an E. window of early 16th-centurv date, with original iron stanchions. The Nave (GO ft. by 25 ft.) has three lofty 15th-century windows in the X. wall, and three in the S. wall; the tracery is repaired. Both N. and S. doorways are of c. 1350; the N. doorway is blocked, and its label and stops defaced. On the N.E., the rood-loft stair turret projects from the outer face of the wall and is continued to the roof; only the head, now blocked, of the lower inner doorway remains, and the upper doorway is also blocked. Tlie Tower (12^ ft. by 12 it.) is of three stages with an embattled parapet and an octagonal lead spire; the tower arch and the W. window of r. 1350 have been restorwl. The windows of the bell-chamber are single cusped lights, with slightly decayed stonework. The South Porch (111 ft. by i0| ft.) has two-Hglit windows on the"E. and W.', probably of early 16th-centurv date; the entrance archway is coated with cement. The Poof of the nave, the beams of the chapel roof, and some of the trusses in the chancel roof are of the 15th centurv. Fittings— Bf//,s .• five; 4th 1G51. 5th by Miles Grave, 1650. Brasses and Indents: in the rliapol, to Litton Pulter, 1C08. inscription: in the porch, slab with three indents, probably 15fh-rontury. Chest: in the vestrv, probably late 16th-contury. Doors: in the nave S. door, heavy, panelled oak, probably 15th-rcn- tury; N. door of same date, still in si/u behind the blocking: in the vestry, inner door and ironwork, probably of e. 1525. Fovt : of grey Derbyshire marble, c. 1700. Glass: m the heads of two N, windows in the nave. L 2 84 IN\'ENTORT OF TTIE UONTMENTS OF HERTFOEDSHIRE. painted, 15th-century. Painting: on N. wall of nave, a large indistinct figure of St. Christopher. I'i.n-inae : in the diancel, 14th- centurv: in the chapel, 15th-century: in the nave, fe. jamb and bowl, 14th-century. Plate: cup and cover ]>ateu. 1711. Shihs : in the chapel floor, several, inscribed, 17th-century. Stoup: in the porch, damaged. Sedile: in the chancel, with two-centred arch, 14th-een- tury. Table : in the vestry, 17th-century. Secular: - lloiTESTEAD Mo.iTS : o (2). Fragment, 200 yards S. of the rectory. o(3). "The Island," 1 mile S.E. of the village. <»(4). The Lordship (now a farmhouse) and Moat, S.E. of the church. The walls are of timber and plaster ; the roof is tiled. The house is of mid 15th-century date and of unusual interest as an example both of a mediaeval building and of the form of renova- tion considered necessarv at the beginning of the 17th century, when it was much altered. To understand the present remains it is necessary to compare them with what was almost certainly the original plan. It was probably of the H type, with the hall in the central wing, facing N. and S., and the butterv, pantry and kitchen in the E. wing; on the W. was a "solar" wing, in the destruction of which the hall may have been shortened. Early in the 17th century an upper floor was inserted in the hall, which was then divided into several rooms, a staircase was built in "the screens,'' the E. wing probably enlarged, and rooms were constructed over the buttery and pantry. In the 19th centurv two staircases were built, one to replace the 17th-century staircase, and the other in the "W. end of the hall: a lean-to structure was also added on the S.. and the whole house restored and patched. The upper storev of the E. winsr projects, and is srabled on the ?f., and in the 17th century- a smaller gable was added, of which the projection forms a porch to the front entrance; the original door remains, and has panels with cinquefoiled heads. The windows are all of the 17th century or of later date, and the chimnev stacks have been partly rebuilt. The original doorways to the kitchen passage, buttery and pantrv also remain, and have chamfered, four-centred heads and chamfered jambs. The butterv is lined with ITth-century mitred panelling, and has a carved oak overmantel. The room over the buttery has panelling of carlv 17th-centurv date, cut up and re-set ; the ceiling is plastered and has moulded oak ribs to repre- sent principals and purlins. In a loom over the hall are some linenfold panels, now covered by the wall paper. Parts of two trusses of the hall roof remain, with moulded cambered tie- beams, and octagonal king posts which have moulded capitals and bases, and curved struts ; only the tie-beams can be seen below the ceiling of the first floor; as the timbers show no traces of soot the chimney stack on the S. of the hall mav be original, though the fireplace is modern. Only a fragment remains of the moat. Condition — Fairly good; the original structure has been much altered and repaired. * (5). Beoom Faem, on the N. side of the road ill the hamlet of Hare Street, about a mile S.AV. of the church, is a timber and brick house built late in the 16th century; the roofs are tiled. The plan is L-shaped ; the long wing, facing S., contains the hall with a room on each side of it, and has a brick front, with three gables, which was added c. 1700; the main entrance, with an oak door, now painted, is on the S. In the shorter wing, facing TT., the one room was probably the kitchen and has a cellar beneath it. The main staircase is between the wings, and there are two small staircases from the upper storey to the attic. The N. and S. windows, with square leaded lights and iron fastenings, are of c. 1700; two of the attic win- dows in the gables, and two oval openings near (he main entrance are now blocked. On the W. is a window of earlv Ifith-century date, not in sitxi ; it is of three lights with four-centred heads, and has moulded, oak mullions. The chimney stacks have square shafts set diagon- ally; the stack at the X. end of the shorter wing seems to have projected beyond the wall, which is now built out to the same level, with the old narrow bricks re-used on the E. side of the fhimney. A fireplace and many of the oak Iwards and 1)enm« inside the house are original. A large barn W. of the house, of earlv 17th- century date, is of half-H plan, built of timber on a brick base, and covered with weather- boarding. Condition — Good. I I 39. DATCmvORTH. (O.S. 6 In. Wxxi. S.W. (Wxxix. N.W.) Ecclesiastical:— a (1). Paetsu Church of All Saints, stands in an isolated position about y mile N. of T)aifh worth Green. It is built of flint rubble with stone dressings; the roof is tiled. Tlie Nni^e is probablv of the 12th centurv, the North Aisle was adde<1 late in the 13th century, and the lower part of the Wc'if 7'o?rpr isof late 14th- UlVa— INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF IlEIlTPORDSnillE. 85 century date. The Chancel arcli is of c. 1480, but the rest of the chancel seems to have been entirely remodelled c. IGOO. The South I'orcli is probably also of the ITth century. In 1875 the church was restored, and the top stage of the tower rebuilt. Architectural Description — The Chancel (2:1 ft. by 14 ft.) has E. and S. windows of c. 1600. The four-centred head of the E. window is blocked, and the tracery is modern. The chancel arch has been repaired, and the bases destroyed. The Nave (:J8 ft. by 19 ft.) has a N. arcade of four bays, with two-centred arches of two orders on octagonal columns having moulded capitals and bases; the responds have detached shafts and crude foliated capitals; all much repaired. In the S. wall one window is of c. 1360, the other window has been much restored, and the doorway is of the 19th century. The North Aide (39 ft."by lOi f t. ) has a 15th-century window on the N.E.; the other windows have rear arches of late 14th-ceu- tury date and modern tracery. The Tower (11 ft. by 10| ft.) is of two stages, with a modern s])ire. The lower stage is of c. 1380, and has a lofty tower arch; the W. doorway is blocked, and the tracery in the window above it is modern. The Porch has blocked loops and a four-centred entrance archway, and is covered with cement. The Roof of the nave is of the 15th century. Fittings — Bells : six; the last four by Anthony Chandler, 1673. Bras.f : in the chancel near the altar, to William Paine, c. 1620, an inscrip- tion with symbolical device. Chair: in the chancel, 17th-century. Chest: in the vestry, oak, with three locks, 17th-century. Font: octagonal, early 15th-centurJ^ Monuments: in the nave, on S.E., a recess containing stone slab with floriated cross, 14th-century; recess repaired. Niches: over the E. window of the aisle, inside, remains of three small niches. Plate: includes cup and cover paten, 15()!i. I'onr Box: probably 17th-century. Condition — Good. The nave arcade is much out of the perpendicular, and, to prevent further deflection, a truss has been thrown across the aisle against it, supported by a buttress on the aisle wall. Secular:— HoiEESTE.Vn M(1ATS : — • "(2). In village, fragment. *(3). At Bull's Green, fragment. Datchwortii Green : — "(4). Hopfiers Hall, about h mile S. of the church, is a timber-framed and plastered build- ing of two storeys and attics; the roofs are tiled. The main building faces N., and is of c. 1640-50; the plan is rectangular, with a small central j)orch wing in front, and a staircase wing at the back. At some later date, possibly in the same century, a wing was added at the E. end, projecting to the 8., the N. wall being flush with that of the original building. The latter contains a lobby with a room on each side of it, and in the additional wing are the kitchen and dairy. There are gables at the E. and W. ends, and the wings are also gabled on the S. Opposite the porch is a central chimney stack, built of thin bricks, and at the E. end is another stack of later date, with moulded cornices. Interior — Two rooms have chamfered oak beams, with ogee stops, and wide fireplaces, reduced for modern grates; over one fireplace a jiainting in oils, of a hunting scene, is prob- ably of the same date as the main building. The kitchen fireplace has a heavy oak lintel, and several oak doors remain. The staircase, probably also original, has turned balusters, plain square newels with ball heads, and a juoulded haniliail. Condition — Good. " (5). Cherrij Tree Farm, al)Out J mile S. of the church, is a 17th-century rectangular build- ing of two storeys, with a projecting central wing at the back. The walls are of brick, covered with modern pebble-dash, but at the back of the house a little of the original plaster remains. The roof is tiled. There is a large central chimney stack with four shafts set diagonally. The double front door is moulded and panelled, and is probably of oak, now jiainted. Condition — Good. « (6). Cottages, two, on the N. side of the green, form a rectangular building of plastered timber and brick, of late 17th-century date; the roof is tiled; the front has been altered in the 19th century. Over three small, gabled dormer windows are the initials „?„ and the date 1694, in raised plaster, llie central chimnev stack is of plain brick. Condition — Fairly good. «(7). Whip/ring Post, near the cottages, i.s about 6 ft. high; the rough iron handcuifs still remain. Condition — Poor. 40, DIGSWELL. (O.S. 6 in. xxviii. N.E.) Ecclesiastical; — (1). Pahisii Church of St. Joitn', stands in the park E. of Digswell House. The walls are 86 IKVENTORT OF THE UOITUHENTS OF HERTFORDSHTRW. covered outside with cement; the roofs are tiled. The Chancel aud ?i'ave are probably of the 12th century; the iS'ortli Aisle was built c. 1280-1300, but the arcade has been destroyed. The North Chapel was rebuilt aud lengthened bj- one bay, and the Tower added W. of the aisle, c. 1510. ITie South Porch was probably built c. 1700. Many alterations were made in 1811, aud in J874 the church was restored. Architectural Description — The Chancel (22 ft. by 20 ft.) has an arch in the N. wall, opening into the chapel, of c. 1200, with a modern face on the chancel side, and in the same wall is a deep, arched recess of the 15th century, which was probably open formerly on both sides. In the S. wall is a blocked window, probably of the 13th century; the other windows have modern tracery. The Xave (31 ft. by 22 ft.) has no detail of earlier date than the loth century, part of the tracery in the two S. windows being of that period, but the walls are probably of the 12th century. A modern arch opening into the N. aisle replaces the original arcade of two bays. The North Chapel (21i ft. by Qi ft.) has two early 16th-century windows, and the North Aisle (25 ft. by 7^ it.) has two windows of the same dat«, evidently inserted when the chapel was rebuilt. The Tower (7^ ft. square), of two stages, with embattled parapet, has walls no thicker than the adjoining walls of the church. The IGth-century single-light TV. window is unglazed, but closed by a door; the foiir windows of the bell-chamber are of two liglits under square heads, and are also of the 16th century. The Porch has an embattled parapet, and is covered with cement. TTie Roof of the nave has 15th-century tie-beams, and the low- pitched, panelled oak roof of the chapel is of early 16th-century date; the other roofs are modern. Yiit'mgs—Belh : three; Ist and 2nd, 1605. Brackets: on each side of E. window in chapel, moulded stone, with shields, charged with Peryent (three crescents) quartering a cross paty. Brasses: in the chancel, of John Peryent, standard bearer to Eichard II., and his wife, who died in 1415, figures 5 ft. long, man in armour, with part of inscription and arms : of a knight in armour, said to be another .John Peryent, c. 1430, with two symbols of the Evangelists; on the same slab, inscription to Thomas Eobynson and his wife, 1492: of Thomas Hoore, 1495, his wife, four sons and eight daughters, with inscription and four shields with arms of the Mercers' Company. Iloore and a defaced coat : of Robert Battyll, 1557, his wife, four sons, and six daughters : of William Robert, auditor of the Bishop of Winchester, 14 — (date not filled in), his wife, 1484, and two sons; shrouded figures, two shields and inscription : to John Peryent, small inscription, undated : to two daughtei's of Sir Alexander Cave, 1637. Mo/iumeiits : in the chapel, mural tablets to William Sedley, 1658 : Francis Shalcrosse, 1681 : Eliza Shalcrosse, 1677 : and some 17th- centurj- floor slabs. Piscina : in the chancel, double, 13th-century. Plate : includes en- graved cup, 1563, paten, 1673; flagon, 1672. Recess : in the X. aisle, between the windows, richly moulded two-centred arch, with tracery and the figui'e of a dove in the centre; of c. 1290; lower part destroyed, tracery and mouldings well presei-ved. Screens : be- tween chancel and chapel, between chapel and aisle, lower part of both destroyed : below the tower, two doors, probably belonged to rood screen: all of oak, of c. 1540. Condition — Good. 41. EAST BARNET. (O.S. xlvi. S.W.) Ecclesiastical: — (1). P.\RisH Church of St. M.\ry, stands on a hill about 4 mile S.E. of Oakleigh Park rail- way station. The old walls are covered with rough-cast, and have stone dressings; the roofs are of tiles aud slate. The church was rebuilt in the 19th century, excejit the Nave, which is almost entirely of c. 1140; the S. doorway of that date has been re-set in the modern S. aisle, and some 16th-centui-y material re-used in the chancel. Architectural Description — The Chancel has, re-set in the N. wall, a 16th-century arch open- ing into the organ chamber, and a square- headed window of two uncusped lights, much restored. The Nave (40 ft. by 19 ft.) has walls 3 ft. thick; in the N. wall are three small original windows with round heads, and between the second and third is a blocked doorway with a similar head; all the stonework is of chinch. The westernmost window in the S. wall retains its original inner round head, but the rest of the stonework is modern. The South Aisle has a S. doorway with a plain, round head, of c. 1140, re-set; in the chamfered label is a grotesque carved head. The Roof of the nave retains its old tie-beams, and has an arched plastered ceiling. Fittings — Glass : in N. window of nave, small fragments of old glass. Plate : includes silver- gilt covered cup of 1636. Recess : in N. wall of 1 ESS- INVENTOET OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEBTFOEDSHIBE. 87 nave, probably 15th-century. Slabs : in tbe chancel floor, several of the 17th century. Condition — Fairly good ; the stonework of the old windows of the nave is decaying. 42. EASTWICK. (O.S. 6 in. Wxxx. N.E. Wxxx. S.E.) Ecclesiastical: — *(1). Parish Chuuch of St. Botolph, S.W. of the village, was rebuilt in 1872, partly on the old foundations; the double windows on the ?<'. and S. are said to mark the position of the original Transej^ts. The Tower was partly rebuilt in 1873. The ISth-centuiy effigy in the tower is an imusually perfect illustration of the armour of that period. Architectural Description — The 13th-century Chancel Arch has been rebuilt with the original materials. It is richly moulded and rests on detached shafts of Purbeck marble, with moulded capitals and bases. The Tower is of three stages, with embattled parapet. Fittings — Bells: three; 1st, with illegible in- scription, of early date: 2nd, inscribed Vox Aiiffustini Senot In Anre Dei, undated : 3rd, by John Clark, IGOl. Brasses: on tower wall, of Joan Lee, lady in Elizabethan costume; coat of arms and part of inscription, 1504; originally all on the same slab, said to be palimpsest. Monu- ment : in the tower, stone effigy of knight, cross- legged, in complete chain mail and long surcoat, with long shield; mid 13th-centui-y, well preserved. Piscina : in the chancel, bowl only, date imcertain. Condition — Good. Secular:— Homestead Moat: — " (2). In Eastwick Wood, fragment. 43. ELSTREE (O.S. 6 in. xlv. N.W.) Ecclesiastical: — (1). Parish CHURcn of St. Nicholas, near the middle of the village, was almost entirely re- built in 1853, some of the old material being re-used. The columns and ca])itals of the S. arcade of the Nave, which was rebiiilt on the old foundations, and possibly some stones in the N. arcade, are oi the 15th century, and old work also remains in the S. wall of the South Aisle. Three of the collar beams in the Roof of the nave are of the 15th century. Fittings — Font: octagonal, the stem consists of central pillar within a hollow octagonal tlrum having a pierced panel in each side ; 15th- centuiy, lower part defaced. Monument: on N. wall of N. aisle, to Olive Buck, 1603, alabaster, recently repaired and replaced in the church. Condition — Good. 44. ESSENDON. (O.S. G in. (<')xxxvi. N.W. W.xxxvi. S.W.) Ecclesiastical:— " (1). Parish Church of St. Mary, in the middle of the village, was entirely rebuilt in 1883, except the West Tower^ which is of the 15th centur}', much restored. Architectural Description — The Tower is of two stages with embattled parapet; two moulded stones in the external jambs of the W. doorway, and many of the clunch stones in the quoins are of the 15th century. The arch opening into the nave is also original, but has been repaired. Fittings— 5(7/«; six; 2nd and 4th, 1685; 0th, 1681. Brasses and Indents: on S. wall of S. aisle, three shields each charged (colours missing) quarterly ; 1. France quartering Eng- land, all within a border, quarterly charged 1 and 4: with leopards, 2 and 3 with tleurs-de-lis (for Henry, Marquis of Exeter, executed 1538) : 2. Courtney; three roundels: 3. Say; Party palewise, three cheverons : 4. Eedvers; a lion; beneath the shields a modern inscription records that they were taken from a gravestone in 1778, and that the arms are probably those of Henry Courtney, eldest son of Henry, Marquis of Exeter, by his second wife : of William Tooke, 1588, his wife Ales, daughter of Robert Barlee, of Bibbes worth, and twelve children, kneeling figures, inscription and three shields (colours missing); 1st, Tooke, party cheveronwise three griffins' heads erased (counterchanged) ; Crest, a griffin's head erased party cheveronwise holding in its beak a sword; 2nd, Tooke impaling Barlee; 3rd, Barlee quar- tering Bibbesworth: in slab in floor, shield with arms of Tooke quartering; 2, Noone or Nove (?), a cross engrailed, with a crescent thereon ; 3, Purchase or Thwaites (?), a lion, over all a fesse with three roundels thereon ; above is the crest of Tooke, and indents of shield and two inscriptions. Monuments and Floor Slabs : in S. aisle, several floor slabs, 17th-century: on S. wall, to William Prestley, 1664, of marble, flanked by twisted pilasters : on W. wall of nave, slab, to Eleanor Whithcot, 88 INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF IlERTFORDSniRE. 1(>84. Plate: includes cup and cover paten, loO'J, large paten, 1G93. Condition — Good. Secular:— HoMESTE-U) Moat : — »(2). N.E. of Coldhailxmr Farm. " (3). EssENDOx Mill, about \ mile 2s. of the church, is a house of two storeys and attics, built probably in the 17th century, but much altered at a later date. The walls were origin- ally timber-framed, but most of them are now encased in brick; the roofs are tiled. The plan is of an irregular L shape, and there is one original chimney stack. Some very large oak timbers in the floors and partitions inside the liouse are evidenth- original, and the central newel staircase on the W. side is probablj- a modern restoration or copy of the old one. Condition — Good. 45. FLAMSTEAD. (O.S. xxvii. X.W.) Ecclesiastical:— (1). i'AUisa CuuRCH OF St. Leonard, stands in the middle of the village. It is built of flint rubble with stone dressings, and is patched with brick ; the roofs are covered with tiles and lead. The West Tower is of c. 1120, and possibly some of the masonry of the Charted may be of that date. The foundations of the side walls of the contemporary iV«i-e were found in the W. bays during repairs, and showed that the internal width was not altered when the North and South Aisles and the present arcades were built in the 13th century. Three of the responds of the arcades differ from the other work in having distinct diagonal tooling, whicli suggests that preparations were made for arcades during the 12th century, even if they were not actually built until later. The tower arch was under-built in the second half of the 13th century. The chancel was remodelled c. 1330-40, when the E. end was probably re- built, and the North Vestry added; the N. aisle may also iiave been rebuilt in the 14t1i century ; in 1332 Sir William de la Zouclie founded a chantry, possibh' at the altar in the N. aisle, as the N.]']. window of the aisle is of that date. The clearstorey of the nave, the upper stage of the tower, with spire, and the rood-loft stairs were built in the 15th century ; the North and South Porches were adderch is of the loth century. The Poof of the nave is of the 15th century though restored, and rests on carved stone corbels; the roof of the chancel is also old. INVENTOHT OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEETFOEDSHIRE. 89 Fittings — Bells: six; five by Chandler, 1664, the sixth, 172D. Bracket: near N.E. comer of N. aisle, for image. Brasses and Iruhnls: in chancel, of John Oudeby, rector, 1414, in pro<^^essional vestments, over his head small canopy, indent of Virgin and Child, round it three brass shields, inscription, and indents of two more shields : figure of unknown man, his wife, and four children, probably 15th-cen- tury, indents of shield and inscription : slab with indents of figure and inscription. Com- munion Table and Rails : 17th-century. Foni : 15th-century, restored and re-tooled. Monu- ments : in third bay of N. arcade, altar tomb with effigies of a man and his wife, under crocketted canopy, probably c. 1420: on chancel wall, of Sir Bartholomew Foukc, 1604, kneeling figure, alabaster and marble : on shafts of nave arcade, three incised inscriptions record burial places of John Pace, 1596; Ffrauncys Cordell, 1597; John Grigge, 1598. Paiixfing : on E. wall of N. aisle, over bracket for image, figure of the Virgin, defaced : over E. window of N. aisle, traces of black-letter inscription to memory of a parish clerk, 1604: on arches of xV. arcade, traces of painted decoration; colour on two easternmost arches, restored. Piscinae : in chancel, 14th-century, restored: in E. respond of N. arcade, trefoiled recess : in W. wall of vestry, basin only. Plate : includes unmarked cup and paten, 17tli-century, flagon, 1690 : pewter flagon dated 1675. Recess : in N. wall of chancel, near E. end, large, shallow, with moulded jambs and arch. Screen : across thtt chancel, 15th-century, with modern beam in- stead of original vaulted loft, rood also modern. Seating : W. end of S. aisle, oak, possibly 14th- century. Scdilia : in chancel, single, cinque- foiled, 14th-century; W. of it, wider cinque- foiled recess for two seats. Miscellanea : on S. jamb of tower arch, is scratched a consecra- tion cross, recently painted. Condition — Good, owing to recent extensive repairs, but some of the stonework is still in a slate of decay. Secular;— (2). Almshouses, N. of the church, built by Thomas Saunders, of Beechwood, in 1669, form a rectangular building of red brick with gabled ends; the roof is tiled. The two chimney stacks have square shafts set diagonally, lliere are four plain windows of two lights in the front, and four round-headed doorways, over two of which are circular panels of stone with defaced carving. Condition — Good. FiAiiNDEN Church 46. FLATJNDEN. (O.S. 6 in. Wxxxviii. N.W. Wxxxviii. S.W.) Ecclesiastical:— 6 (1). Old CnuRcii of St. Mary MAGD.iLENE, ruins, \\ miles S. of the village, in a clump of fir trees on the banks of the river Chess. The remaining walls are of plastered flint rubble, with chinch dressings, and, with the gables, retain their original height, but there are no roofs. The building is small, in the form of a Greek cross, and was probably built c. 1230. The unusual plan and the traces of early mural painting in the interior make these ruins especially interesting. Architectural Description — The building measures 36 ft. from E. to W., and 37 ft. from N. to S. across the transepts; the Chancel (13 ft. wide) retains only parts of the N. and S. walls. In the N. wall is an arched recess partly destroyed bv a later opening with brick jambs; in the S. wall is the sill of a two-light window of the 15th centuiy. The Nave (13 ft. wide) has a 13th-century W. doorway with plain jambs, pointed arch and moulded label. The North Transept (10| ft. wide) has, in the N. wall, the jambs and sill of an original single-light win- dow. The South Transept (10| ft. wide) has a partly restored three-light window of the 15th century in (he S. wall. Fittings — Paintings: on E. splay of N. tran- sept window, traces, probably representing the Crucifixion; on W. splay, a diaper pattern : on E. wall of N. transept, traces of colour. Piscina: in S. wall of S. transept, 13th-century. Reredos: on E. wall of S. transept, traces, with central niche. Condition — Very bad; the ruins are loaded with heavy ivy, and much damage has been by pcrmifsion of the iV'ofc — The plan is reproduceil VicTOEiA County Histobies. M 90 INVENTORY OF THE HONrMENTS OF IIERTFORDSHIUB. done by visitors; the paintings liave sufEered much from exposure. "(2). CiuRcii OF St. M.\ry M.\(;dalexk, on a hill at the W. end of the village, was built in 1838. It contains, from the old church, the following : — Fitting."! — Bells: one, inscribed ^Gloria in exelcisc deo,' by William Knight, 1578. (Another l)ell by the same founder, and of the same date, originally at Flaunden, is now at St. John's Church, Uxbridge.) Font: bowl, octagonal, probablv 15th-century, with modern stem and base. Plate : includes cup and cover paten, 157G. Tiles : in S. porch, mediaeval. Condition — Good; tiles worn. 47. FURXEUX PELHAM. (O.S. 6 in. xlv. X.E.) Ecclesiastical; — (1). r.vKisii Cnx-RCii OF St. Mary, stands on high ground in the village. It is built chiefly of flint with oolite dressings; the X. aisle is coated with cement, and the porch has clunch dressings. The Chaneel was built c. 1260-80 ; it leans to the S. which may indicate that it is an enlargement of an earlier chancel attached to a Nave of about the same size as the present nave. The West Tower was added c. 1370, and the Xorth and South Aisles, with the arcades and dearstorej" of the nave, were built c. 1400. The South Porch was added in the 15th century, and the S. aisle was pi^obably lengthened at the same time to enclose the side of the tower. The South Chapel was built by Robert Xewport e. 1518, according to an inscription given in Wecver's Funeral Momtmciits. Many of the windows of the church were entirely renewed in the 19th century. Architectural Description — TheC/ianccZ(34tt. by 19 ft.) has a 13th-century E. window with engaged inner shafts, moulded rear arch, and label with foliage stops; the tracery is modern. In the N. wall are three lancets of the 13th cen- tury, the westernmost being a low side window with rebates and hooks for shutter; in the S. wall are two lancets of the 13th century; in both walls the easternmost window is of richer detail than the others, having engaged inner shafts with moulded capitals and bases, and a moulded rear arch with a plain label which has mask stops. In the S. wall is also a modern archway and a small cinquci'oilcd ojx'iiiiig into the S. chapel. In the S'nith Clinprl CJd ft. by ]9J ft.) only the inner jambs and rear arch of the three- light E. window and two stones in the S. door- way are old. The Nave (40 ft. by 19 ft.) has 15th-century X. and S. arcades of three bays with pointed arches; the piers each have four semi-octagonal shafts separated by a hollow chamfered order; the labels mitre at the apices with the string course below the clearstorey, which has three windows of two lights in both walls. The .XortJi Aisle (11 ft. wide) has an E. and a W. window and two N. windows, of three lights each, of modern stonework; the X. door is original, and has moulded jambs and a pointed arch in a square head with traceried spandrels and moulded label. The South Aisle (11 ft. wide) has three windows similar to those in the X. aisle; only the inner jambs of the easternmost are original; the S. doorway resembles that op])osite. but the traceried spandrels contain shields; "W. of it a small door- way opens into the staircase leading to the room above the porch. The moulded string of the parapet outside is badly decayed. Nearly all the stonework of the Sout?i Porch has been renewed in the 19th century, but some of the external quoins are original ; on two of them are scratched ancient circular sundials, one with Roman numerals; the porch is lighted by side windows and has a modern entrance archway ; in the E. wall of the upper chamber is an original single light, much decayed, with a trefoiled head; the S. and W. windows are modern. The West Toicer (9 ft. square) is of three stages with an embattled parapet and a leaded needle spire; a plain archway opens into it from the nave; the W. window, of three lights, has been re- paired with cement; the windows of the bell- chamber, of two lights each with tracery, are original, but have decayed jambs and restored heads. The high-pitched Poof of the chancel has a few old timbers; the nave has a fine, low- pitched roof of three bays of early 15th-century date; the moulded tie-beams have struts with traceried spandrels; the ceiling is divided into panels and at the feet of the ])rincipal rafters are angels carved in wootl, holding shields, of which two, on the S. side of the E. bay, are painted with coats of arms ; on one of the tie- beams is the original colour decoration. The roofs of the aisle are similar in character but plainer. Tlie chapel roof is similar but of later workmanship ; it also has angels with shields, carved bosses, etc., and retains some of the original painted ornament. Fittings— 5f//4-.- six; 3rd, 1G62; 4th, appa- rently by William Culverden. 1513-1522; 5th, 1618. Jirnsses and Lndents : in floor of S. chapel, indent of man in civilian costume, half-figure, V. itli inscription, probably loth-centurj- : indent INVENTOEY OF THE MONUMENTS OF H£aTFOaDSHIUE. 91 of knight in armour, early IGth-century, part of brass inscription to John Xevvport, date in- complete, and shield with his arms : two other slabs with indents much defaced (see Monu- ments below). Easter Sepulchre : in N. wall of chancel, recess with modern arch. Font : Pur- beck marble bowl, 13th-century. Glass: in E. window of N. aisle, fragments, 15tli-century. Monuments : atW.end of S. aisle, altai- tomb of Purbeck marble, sides of base panelled, origi- nally with shields; in the covering slab, brasses of man in civilian dress, and his widow, under a double canopy, with indents of pinnacled but- tresses, c. 1425; also indents of daughter, in- scription and four shields: in S. chapel, altar tomb of white stone with black marble slab, marble pilasters and shields with arms of Casoii and others; on the wall above it, inscription to Edward Cason, 1G24, and on an iron bracket, helmet of c. 1570-80 : on N. wall of N. aisle, Purbeck marble tablet, probably to Robert Newport, dated 1518, with brasses of man in armour, his wife, two sons and three daughters, all kneeling, and shield with arms of Newport, a lion rampant, impaling Alington, a bend between six billets; indents of two other shields. Virgin and Child, and two scrolls : in floor of S. chapel, marble coffin lid, much worn, probablv 14th-century. Piscinae: in chancel, with moulded jambs, pointed arch and 'label, quatre- foiled bowl. 13th-centurv : in S. chapel, with cinquefoiled bead, sexfoiled bowl, earlv 16th- centurv. Royal Arms : on screen at W. end of S. aisle, carved in wood, with supporters and shield, double faced: bearing the dates lfi34. 1660, and 1831. Sedilia: three, in S. wall of chancel, shafted iambs with moiildod liases and capitals, moulded trefoiled heads with labels, 13th-oentury. Stoup : in porch, E. of S. door- way, with sub-cusped trefoiled head and muti- lated bowl. Condition — Generally good, except a few ex- ternal details; much of the stonework outside is modem ; the ivy on the tower may cause damage in future. Secular:— (2). Homestead Mo.\t, at St. John's Pelham, fragment. (3). Fttrnefx Pet.iiam H.vll, about 1\ furlongs W. of the church, is a brick house of two storeys with an attic, built late in the 16th century, much altered in the second half of the ]7th century, and considerablv repaired in the 19th century; the roofs are tiled. The plan is L-shaped: one winsj faces S. and contains the principal rooms, in the other wing are the kitchen and offices. The S. and W. elevations have each three curvilinear gables, part of the ITth-century alterations, traces of the original crow-stepped gables l)oing still visible; on the N. and E. the original gables remain, and the attic windows throughout retain their plastered brick mullions. which have been replaced in all the other windows by ' flush ' sashes. The chimney stacks have been partly rebuilt, but traces remain of the moulded liases of separate octaa:onal shafts. Interior — One room on the giv)und floor is lined with fine panelling of late 17th-centuiy date in large bolection-moulded panels. Another room, on the first floor, retains much of its original panelling, with fluted pilasters and a frieze of straji-work arabesques. Condition — Good. 48. GILSTON. (O.S. in. XXX. S.E.) Ecclesiastical: — (1). Parish Chuhch of St. Mary, stands in an isolated position about J mile X. of Gilston Park and about 2 miles W. of the London and Bishop's Stortford road. It is built chiefly of flint with stone dressings, but the tower is of brick, and the chancel walls are coated with cement; the roofs are tiled. There appears to have been a former aisleless church, of which one doorway, of early 13tli-cpntury date, re- mains, but it was probably entirely rebuilt and enlarged in the second half of the 13th century; the tower seems to have been ro-constructed late in the 16th century. Since 1850 the building has been thoroughly restored, the S. aisle re- built and the vestry added. The remains of the chancel screen, of late 13th-centurv date, are of especial interest as an unusually early example of woodwork. .'Vrchitectural Description — The Chancel ("25 ft. by 12i ft.) has a modern E. window of four lights: the lancet window in the N. w.iU, and two in the S. wall, are of the 13th century, repaired; one is of sliahtlv later date than the others. The Nave (46 ft. bv 12; ft.> has N. and S.arcadesof four bays, which have clustered uiers with moulded bases and capifals, and hollow chamfered arches with laWls. The North Aisle (6 ft. wide"! has a modern E. window, and. in theN. wall, a two-light window of lafe 13th-century date, with two other windows copied from it or restored in the 19th century; the blocked N. doorwav, with shafted jambs and moulded arch, is a fine example of 92 INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIHE. early 13th-century work; the W. window appears to be contemporary with the rebuilding of the tower. The South Aisle (6 ft. wide) is modern. The West Tower (12 ft. by 11 ft.) is of two stages with a projecting stair-turret on the S., a modern embattled parapet and octagonal leaded spire; the pointed tower arch is of late IGth-century date; it is doubly cham- fered, and has in each wide jamb a single detached shaft with roughly cut capital ; the W. doorway, of late 13th-century date, has shafted jumbs, and a moulded arch of four orders ; the window over it has old double-cham- fered jambs and a modern head; the bell- chamber windows are of late 14th-century character, repaired with cement. Fittings— 5e//*' .- two; 1st, 1028; 2nd, IfiCvl. Font : bowl with panelled sides, late 12th- century; stem and base, late 14th-century. Glass.' in the W. window, 15th-centurs' shield with arras of Sir William Estfeld, Sheriff of Lon- don in 1429; sable, a cheveron ermine between three maidens' heads couped at the shoulders argent with hair dishevelled, or. Momtments : mural, in the chancel, to Sir John Gore, 1659; Bridget Gore (his daughter), 1657 : on the floor, to his daughters, Bridget, 1657; Dorothy, 1663, and another, 1670: in the N. aisle, coffin lid with floriated cross in low relief, late 13th- century. Plate : includes silver cup and cover paten of 1562, flagon of 1G9T, undated ])aten, probably ITtlwentury. I'isrii)fi and Credence combined : in chancel, two pointed arches with a central shaft of Purbeck nKiilile. enclosed under a pointed panelled head, with a rosette sinking in the spandrel, late 13th-century. Screen: between chancel and nave, oak, late 13tli-cen- tury, remains incorporated in modern screen ; the posts, of which two are original, are one inch in diameter, with moulded bases, bands, and capitals, and support trefoiled, pointed heads with roses cut in the spandrels. Seating : in the nave, some plain oak standards, 17th-century. Condition — Good; much of the stonework is modem. Secular:— (2). The Pume of Featrers Inn, Pye Corner, about | mile S.S."W. of the church, is a small, 17th-century, rectangular building of two storevs, with plastered timber-framed walls on brick foundations; it has a central porch and a massive chimney stack, with diagonal shafts; the roof is tiled. Inside the house are a few old beams. Condition — Good. 49. GRAVELEY. (O.S. 6 in. xii. N.E.) Ecclesiastical:— (1). Parisu Church of St. M.\ry, ^ mile E. of the village, is built of flint inibble, with stone dressings; the chancel is roofed with tiles and the nave witli lead. The .\ave is the earliest part, and is probably of the 12th century. The ('/lanrel was enlarged or rebuilt in the 13th cen- tury. The West Tower is of c. 1480, and the South Porch probably of the 18th century. In 1887 the church was thoroughly restored and the North Aisle and Vestry were built. Architectural Description — The Chancel (31 ft. by 16 ft.) has an E. window of c. 1500, inserted in place of 13th-ceiiturj' windows, of which the inner jambs and part of the arch, enriched with edge-roll moulding, remain on each side. In the N. wall are two windows, probably of the 13th century, and between them is a modern window; the doorway is of the 12th century, removed from the N. wall of the nave wlien tlie aisle was built. In the S. wall there is a single-light window of the 13th century; a blocked doorway and window above it are also probably of that date, and the westernmost window is of c. 1500. The chancel arch, of late 15th-cenlMry date, is of two orders, the inner supported on half-octa- gonal pilasters, with moulded capitals. The Nave (30 ft. by 19 ft.) has, in the S. wall, a window of c. 1330, with a two-centred head, and a window of the 15th century. Tlie North Aisle is modern, but in the N. wall is a 14th- centurv window, re-set. The West Totcer (11 ft. by 10 ft.) is of two stages, with embattled ])arapet. The tower arch and the "W. doorway are of late 15th-centurv date; the masonry of the W. window is modern, and the bell-chamber windows, of two lights, are repaired with cement. The low-pitched Poof of the nave is of the 15tli century, but most of the carving is modern. Yinlmxn— Bells : six; 3rd 1605. 5th 1589. Floor Slab : in nave, with illegible, incised marginal inscription, and indents of brass shields and inscription plate. Niches: in nave, at E. end of N. wall, high, with moulded edges, 15th-century. Piscinae: in the chancel, richly monlde I o (9 s g a. INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HERTFORDSHIRE. 95 later, but witli little detail to show the date. The Nave (39 ft. by 22 ft.) has four windows, all renewed outside, but with old inner jambs : the first in the N. -wall is of three lights of 14th - century character, the second is a traceried single light; the first S. window is a 13th-century lancet with widely splayed jambs ; the second is a three-light "window of the 15th century. A sloping recess in the X. wall at the E. end shows the position of the former stairs to the rood-loft. The Tower (12 ft. by 10 ft.) is of three stages, with an embattled parapet and modern spire; the tower arch is of the 15th century; in the W. wall is an arched and square-headed doorway, which re- tains the holes for the original drawbar; over it is a three-light window with modern mul- Hons; the second stage is lighted by loops, the third by traceried two-light windows with repaired mullions. The Roof of the chancel has one 15th-century tie-beam; above the round apse is a gable end to the roof; the roof of the nave is modern. Fittings — Bells: three, two undated, the third 1612. Brasses : on E. wall of nave, of a priest in alb and hood, mid 15th-centur\" no inscription: on N. wall, of a civilian (the heatl missing), his two wives and seven chil- dren; no inscription. There are said to be other brasses in the church, probably hiddr con- struction: the back is hidden by modern addi- tions. The interior has been much altered, but some nricTJnal Warns remain in tho ceilings. Condition — Good. INVENTORY OF THI; MONUMENTS OF HEETFOEDSHIRE. 99 ^» ^o o K>o aoo jo o BERKHAMPSTEAD CASTLE ^c ale of Feet '^-cent E^ iV^cent EDra 13'J'cgnl- CZ3mod« (parish OF GREAT B E R K H A MP ST CA O^ #au :;;;;;;:^ ■•■'"'^"■■' .,«.«'«"''"""" "f mn?Mnt*i""*" Pond . Inn c r J t f t h Vv fc r d S t c -^^^"'■ll!^ '-^^■"''-' y^^^'^ CiT TO g A h T Ward btCT.oN won o i o w T Section r^.«Ok^crt «ew».o NOMTH (AVr TO aOVTHWCftT N 2 100 INVliafTOHY OF TiLE MONVMENTS OF UEHTFORDSHIRE. Castle Stheet, AV. side : — (8). The Grammar School, ou the ^'. side of the churchyard, is a long rectaugular structure of brick with stoue dressiugs, founded by Jolin lucent, Dean of St. Paul's, in 1541, and built c. 1544, with large wings added in the lUth century. The building is an interesting example of work of mid Ibth-ccntury date, but of late 15th-century style. The schoolroom, in the centre, has an open timber root, and at each end is a block of two storeys with attics, gabled on the N. and S., though the gables on the N. are partly destroyed bj- the additional wings. A single- span slated roof covers the whole of the original building. Over the schoolroom are two large hexagonal brick chimney-shafts, with an arched panel in each face. The outer doorwaj's have moulded stone jambs, four- centred heads and square labels; an original door still remains on the S. side of the E. block. The schoolroom is lighted ou two sides by six windows of three lights each, with uncusped tracery in four-centred heads ; the details are of stone on the N. side, but on the S. side are of moulded brick, now cemented; the open timber king-post roof rests on carved stone corbels, some bearing the Incent arms; the arms and initials of the founder are also over the N. doorway. The terrace walls and steps in front of the house aro said to be con- temporary with the school. Condition — Good throughout. (9). Cottages, built of brick and timber in the 17th century; the roofs are tiled. One cottage has been used as a Koman Catholic chapel. Condition — Somewhat dilapidated. Back Lane : — (10). The Court House, near the N.E. corner of the church, is a small rectangular building of the 16th century; the ground storey has been re-faced with brick and flint, and the projecting upper storey is of timber; the roof is tiled. The porch, windows, doorway, and some addi- tions at the back, are modern. Interior: tlie upfK?r flfjor has been removed, and the original open timber roof can be seen, with the beam below it which formerly supported the floor. The Borough court used to be held in this house, now a church school. Condition — Good. (11). House, at the W. end of the lane, now a shop, is of 16th-century timber construction, with an overhanging upper storey; the roof is tiled. Condition — Good. Unclassified:— (12). GiiiMS Ditch, or Graemes Dyke (Boundary Bank) : the easternmost fragment of this earthwork, which reappears in ISorth- church, AViggiutou and Tring parishes in this county, lies on Berkhampstead Common on an irregular ridge, 500 to 540 ft. above O.D.; it consists of two straight arms forming a slight salient to the N. The rampart, also on the N. side, is from 3 to 4 ft. above the ground, and 7 ft. above the ditch on the S. The ditch is '6b ft. wide with a counterscarp 4 to 5 ft. high. Dimensions — Length of W. arm, 800 yds.; of E. arm, 500 yds. Condition — Fairly good ; a golf course is laid out on the common, but no actual destruction of the dyke seems to have taken place. 52. GEEAT GADDESDEN. (O.S. 6 in. ('')xxvi. S.E. Wxxxiii. N.E.) Ecclesiastical: — " (Ij. r.uiisH Church of St. John the B.4PT1ST, stands in the middle of the village, about 3 miles N.W. of ilemel Hempstead. The building is coated with plaster, except the tower, where the flint rubble walling is exposed, and the N. chapel, which is of brick; the quoins of the chancel and the short flat buttresses on the E. wall are of Koman brick. The roofs of the chancel and chapel are tiled, the otlier roofs are of low pitch and leaded. The E. wall of the Chancel is of early 12th-century date; its side walls and the E. wall of the Nave, which is 3 ft. 6 in. thick, may also retain contemporary masonry; the plan of both chancel and nave is probably of that date. The Soitth Aisle was built c. 1230, and a North Aisle was added in the 14th century. The South Porch is of the 15th century, but some 13th-centur\- stonework is re-used in it. The nave clearstorey and the West Tower were added in the 15th century, and the North Chapel was built in 1730 as a memorial chapel of the Halsey family. The tower was almost entirely rebuilt and the chancel restored in the l!Jth century. The church is especially interesting on account of the Roman brick quoins and shallow buttresses on the E. wall of the chancel, and the carved 13th-century capitals of the S. arcade of the nave. Architectural Description — The Chancel (23 ft. by 16 ft.) has an E. window of 14th- century type, but only a few stones in the jambs are old. Below the sill outside are parts of the jambs of an earlier window in Roman brick. INVENTORY OF THE MONUMENTS OF HEHTFOKDSUIRE. 101 In the N. wall a modern arcade opens into the chapel, and in the S. wall is a small 13th- century lancet window, restored externally, and a Idth-century window of two cinquef oiled lights, set low in the wall. The chancel arch is of the 13th century, and has two chamfered orders with moulded labels and capitals. The lower part of the inner order of the jambs ha« been cut away to make a wider opening. The Nave (42 ft. by 22 ft.) is of four bays; the N. arcade has pointed arches of two orders with a moulded label, and octagonal shafts with moulded capitals and bases; the 8. arcade is similar, but has 13th-century capitals with carved foliage, and the octagonal moulded bases, if contemporary, ai'e unusual. Tiie 15th-century windows of the clearstorey, four ou the N. and three on the S., are of three cinque- foiled lights under square heads. In the S.E. corner of the nave is the upper doorway of the rood-loft. The North Aisle has an E. window of c. 1280 with two uucusped lights and a trefoil over them, now uuglazed and opening into the chapel. The two N. windows have modern stonework, and under the easternmost is a blocked doorway. The W. window, of c. 1500, has two trefoiled lights under a four-centred head. The South Aide has a three-liglit E. window with modern stonework, and two 15th- century S. windows each of two cinquefoiled lights; near the W. end is an early 14th-century window of two lights, with a quatrefoil in the head, and a moulded label; the 15th-ceutury S. doorway has a moulded four-centred head and modern jambs; the moulded rear arch is of the 13th century, and is probably in situ. The So nth Porch has an outer arch with continiious mouldings; in each side wall is a single tre- foiled light of the 15th century, with a square head, and a 13th-century rear arch, which prob- ably belonged to an earlier porch. The Roofs of the nave, aisles and porch are of tlie 15tli century, that of the nave being low pitched, with moulded timbers, carved bosses, and tenons for carved figures, now missing. Fittings — Bells : five ; four of 1662 and one of 1723, all by Chandler. Bracket: at N.E. end of S. aisle, for image, with traces of colour, 15th-century. Brasses and Indents : in the chancel, of William Croke, 1506, his wife, three shields, indents of three children and a fourth shield : near tiie N. doorway, figure of woman, c. 1520, with indents of husband, children and inscription : in the N. aisle, two slabs with indents. Chests : two, in the tower, one cut out of a solid log. Communion Tables : at E. end, 17th-century: in the tower, 17fh- century. Monuments and Floor Slabs .• in the N. chapel, mural tablet to William and Letitia Halsey, 1637 and 164'J, erected in 1650, ala- baster and marble : on S. wall of chancel, of Sir John Halsey, 1670: in chancel tloor, several 17th-century slabs to members of the Halsey family. Fiscinae: in S. wall of chancel, late 14th-century, basin partly broken : in the S. aisle, 15th-century. Plate: includes cup of 1637. Miscellanea : in the N. chapel, part of stone base, early 12th-ceutury, possibly belong- ing to original nave. Under E. window of chancel, outside, stone with 1 1) 3 cut twice on it. Condition — Fairly good; the external plaster is scaling off in places and some of the stone in the windows is decaying. Secular:— * (2). Gaudesden Hall, on the W. bank of the river (iade, about j mile S.E. of the church, is a two-storeyed house, with an attic in the S. wing, and is of late 16th or early 17th-century date. The walls are of flint and brick; the roofs are tiled. The plan is L-shaped and the wings face approximately E. and S., the main entrance being on the N. side of the S. wing; a small original staircase and a modern drawing- room project on the S. face of this wing, which retains the original flint and brickwork; part of the N. wall is of 2 in. bricks on a flint base, the rest is of modern brick; the W. end is built of a mixture of flint, conglomerate and a little Totternhoe stone, with quoins and a central strip of 2 in. bricks. Of the E. wing only the S. end and a large chimney stack on the E. face are of original brickwork; the stack has a moidded brick plinth and two square shafts, set diagonally, with ovolo moulded caps. Over the staircase on the S. front are three diagonal chimney-shafts, apparently of old brick, but of later date than the others. All the windows are modern. The interior has been altered, but retains two wide fireplaces; one, now partly filled in, has moulded stone jambs, a four- centred arch, and a square head; two large nioulde