THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES A HANDBOOK OF NEW ENGLAND *g i^anfrfrooh Published THE BEST PRIVATE SCHOOLS, 1915 AMERICAN PRIVATE SCHOOLS, 1916 NEW ENGLAND, 1916 In Preparation COLLEGES AND UNIVERSITIES A Critical Study and-Appraisal THE MIDDLE STATES Uniform with New England BUDDHISM ROME >argent'0 J A HANDBOOK OF NEW ENGLAND AN ANNUAL PUBLICATION PORTER E. SARGENT BOSTON COPYRIGHT, 1910, BY PORTER E. SARGENT Map Library Z.3 Hi* TO THOSE WELL-INFORMED AND PUBLIC-SPIRITED NEW ENGLANDERS WHOSE CORDIAL COOPERATION HAS MADE POSSIBLE THIS BOOK 625814 PUBLISHER'S NOTE Strange as it may seem, this Handbook covers a field as yet unoc- cupied. No single book exists which serves to acquaint visitor and resident alike with New England as a whole. There is the greater need of it as New England is America's most frequented summer playground. Hundreds of thousands of visitors come every summer. Though no accurate count is possible, Syl- vester Baxter estimates the number at 1,500,000. Sixty per cent of the summer tourists to New England, the railroads estimate, come by automobile. For all these there has been no adequate guide-book that would properly inform them of what lay along the way. This is the first of a series of Handbooks on the United States which, if well received, will eventually cover the country. Already material has been accumulated for a similar Handbook of the Middle States. It is intended to make them humanized Baedekers, descriptive of town and country along the chief routes of automobile travel. With today 2,400,000 automobiles in the country, an average of about one to each forty inhabitants, the State and National Highways will become more and more the chief routes of travel. It is aimed to fill these books with human interest information, to make them in a way a new kind of journalism, to be rewritten and republished annually. Only through such continual revision can a Handbook covering so many details be made accurate and up-to-date. The revision of this Handbook for the 1917 edition will begin imme- diately. Correction of errors and notification of important omissions will be gratefully received. It has been impossible to carry out in this first edition many features projected. In the 1917 edition the maps will be greatly increased in number and value. The illustra- tions, the purpose of which is to attract the attention or assist in iden- tifying objects of interest, will be multiplied. Additional introduc- tory chapters will be added. The New England Coast will be treated also from the yachtsman's point of view, and there will be added a Yachtsman's Directory. This is the second volume of the Sargent Handbook Series to appear. The first, the Best Private Schools, met with the most enthusiastic and cordial reception. In the first six months 7500 copies of the edition of 10,000 were distributed. A second edition, revised and enlarged with many new features, appears simultaneously with this volume. Other volumes of the Series are in preparation. (6) TABLE OF CONTENTS INTRODUCTORY PAGE How THIS BOOK WAS MADE 17 NEW ENGLAND IN THE LARGE 21 Generalizations on Many Topics. OLD NEW ENGLAND 24 A Geological Interpretation and Retrospect. THE NEW ENGLAND CLIMATE 30 Tributes of Poets, Pessimists, and Philosophers. THE FLORA OF NEW ENGLAND 31 Characteristic Trees, Shrubs, and Plants. ABORIGINES AND SLAVERY 33 The Indian Lords of the Soil and their Fate. THE NEW ENGLANDER 36 His Character, his Conscience, and his God. THE LANGUAGE OF NEW ENGLAND 38 Usages and Survivals, on the Map and on the Tongue. THE NEW ENGLAND VILLAGE 40 As a Social Community; Origins of Democracy. ROADS AND HIGHWAYS 43 From Indian Trails to Boulevards. NEW ENGLAND ARCHITECTURE 46 Colonial, Georgian, Roman, Gothic, and Municipal. THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND- 51 Their Individuality and Origin. MAINE 51 NEW HAMPSHIRE 53 VERMONT 55 MASSACHUSETTS 57 RHODE ISLAND 59 CONNECTICUT 61 HOW TO USE THIS HANDBOOK 64 (7) TABLE OF CONTENTS ROUTES PAGE 1. NEW YORK VIA SPRINGFIELD TO BOSTON 65 1 New York to New Haven 66 2 New Haven to Hartford 106 3 Hartford to Springfield 118 4 Springfield to Worcester , 130 5 Worcester to Boston 140 2. NEW HAVEN VIA NEW LONDON TO BOSTON 150 1 New Haven to New London 150 2 New London to Providence 166 3 Providence to Boston 193 3. NEW YORK VIA WILLIMANTIC TO BOSTON 203 1 New York via Danbury to Hartford 203 2 Hartford via Willimantic to Boston 212 4. NEW YORK VIA THE HUDSON TO ALBANY WITH ENTRANCE ROUTES INTO NEW ENGLAND 222 1 New York to Poughkeepsie 222 2 Poughkeepsie to Albany 23 1 5. NEW YORK TO THE BERKSHIRES AND MONTREAL 234 1 New York to Pittsfield 234 2 Pittsfield to Williamstown 253 3 Williamstown to Manchester 257 4 Manchester to Rutland 262 5 Rutland to Burlington 263 6 Burlington to Montreal 272 6. NORWALK TO LlTCHFIELD AND TORRINGTON 275 7. STRATFORD TO WATERBURY AND WINSTED 279 8. SALISBURY TO CANAAN, WINSTED, AND HARTFORD 286 9. DERBY TO NEW MILFORD, CORNWALL, AND CANAAN 288 10. THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY ROUTES 290 1 West Bank: Saybrook to Hartford 291 East Bank: Old Lyme to Hartford 299 2 East Bank: Hartford to Springfield 303 West Bank: Hartford to Springfield 304 3 West Bank : Springfield to Greenfield 309 East Bank: Springfield to Millers Falls * 321 4 West Bank: Greenfield to Bellows Falls 328 East Bank: Millers Falls to Charlestown 334 5 West Bank: Bellows Falls to White River Jet. 340 East Bank: Charlestown to West Lebanon 345 6 West Bank: White River Jet. to Colebrook 354 East Bank: West Lebanon to Bretton Woods 360 7 East Bank: Bret ton .Woods to Colebrook 364 TABLE OF CONTENTS PACE 11. NORWICH TO WILLIMANTIC AND WORCESTER 366 12. NEW LONDON TO WORCESTER AND CONCORD, N.H. 369 1 New London to Worcester 369 2 Worcester to Concord, N.H. 375 13. ALBANY VIA PITTSFIELD AND SPRINGFIELD TO BOSTON 381 1 Albany to Pittsneld 381 2 Pittsneld to Springfield 386 14. PITTSFIELD TO ASHFIELD AND NORTHAMPTON 397 15. ALBANY VIA GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 401 1 Albany to Williamstown 401 2 Williamstown to Greenfield 409 3 Greenfield to Boston 415 16. PROVIDENCE TO TAUNTON AND PLYMOUTH 431 17. PROVIDENCE VIA FALL RIVER TO BUZZARDS BAY 434 18. PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT 439 19. PROVIDENCE TO WORCESTER AND TICONDEROGA 443 1 Providence to Worcester 443 2 Worcester to Brattleboro 445 3 Brattleboro to Manchester 448 4 Manchester to Ticonderoga 450 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 451 21. ROUND ABOUT METROPOLITAN BOSTON 475 22. BOSTON TO WEYMOUTH, HANOVER, AND PLYMOUTH 483 23. BOSTON TO BRIDGE WATER AND MANSFIELD 484 RETURNING VIA WALPOLE AND NORWOOD I 24. BOSTON TO W T ELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, AND GRAFTON 485 RETURNING VIA MEDFIELD AND DOVER 25. BOSTON TO HARVARD, PRINCETON, AND CLINTON 499 RETURNING VIA HUDSON AND SUDBURY 26. BOSTON TO BEDFORD, GROTON, AND ASHBY 506 27. BOSTON TO BILLERICA AND LOWELL 508 28. BOSTON TO READING, ANDOVER, AND HAVERHILL 509 29. BOSTON TO W T AKEFIELD, PEABODY, TOPSFIELD, GEORGETOWN, AND HAVERHILL 514 30. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH AND PROVINCETOWN 517 1 Boston via Cohasset to Plymouth 517 2 Plymouth to Provincetown 542 31. BOSTON TO BUZZARDS BAY AND CHATHAM 557 1 Boston to Buzzards Bay 557 2 Buzzards Bay to Chatham 564 32. BOSTON TO FALL RIVER AND NEWPORT 572 TABLE OF CONTENTS PACE 33. BOSTON TO FITCHBURG, KEENE, AND RUTLAND 596 1 Boston to Bellows Falls 596 2 Bellows Falls to Rutland 598 34. BOSTON TO CONCORD, N.H., LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE, BRETTON WOODS, AND THE WHITE Mrs. 600 35. BOSTON TO PORTSMOUTH 625 Via the Newburyport Turnpike and the Lafay- ette Road. 36. BOSTON TO PORTSMOUTH AND PORTLAND 627 1 Boston to Newburyport 627 2 Newburyport to Portsmouth 663 3 Portsmouth to Portland 671 37. SALEM VIA DANVERS TO LAWRENCE 690 38. NEWBURYPORT TO LOWELL AND LITTLETON 694 Via Amesbury, Haverhill, and Lawrence. 39. PORTSMOUTH TO EXETER AND MANCHESTER 702 40. NASHUA TO PETERBORO AND KEENE 704 41. BRATTLEBORO TO BENNINGTON 706 42. PORTSMOUTH TO DOVER, OSSIPEE, THE WHITE MTS., GORHAM, AND THE DlXVILLE NOTCH 708 43. PLYMOUTH, N.H., TO LAKE SUNAPEE, CLAREMONT, MANCHESTER, VT., AND SARATOGA SPRINGS 719 44. WHITE RIVER JUNCTION TO LAKE GEORGE 726 Via the Ottaquechee valley and Rutland. 45. WHITE RIVER JUNCTION TO MONTPELIER 729 46. BRETTON WOODS TO MONTPELIER AND BURLINGTON 731 Via St. Johnsbury and Waterbury. 47. BURLINGTON TO NEWPORT, LAKE MEMPHREMAGOG, WlLLOUGHBY, AND Si. JOHNSBURY 735 48. FRANKLIN, N.H., to WEST LEBANON 739 49. BRETTON WOODS TO BANGOR 740 Via Bethel, Rumford, and Skowhegan. 50. PORTLAND TO SEBAGO LAKE, NORTH CONWAY, CRAW- FORD NOTCH AND BRETTON WOODS 742 51. PORTLAND TO POLAND SPRING, BETHEL, GORHAM, AND BRETTON WOODS 749 52. PORTLAND TO AUBURN, FARMINGTON, AND RANGELEY 753 RETURNING VIA SKOWHEGAN TO BANGOR 53. PORTLAND TO AUGUSTA, W T ATERVILLE, AND BANGOR 757 Via Auburn, Belgrade Lakes, and the Kennebec. TABLE OF CONTENTS 54. PORTLAND ALONG THE MAINE COAST TO CALAIS 763 1 Portland to Ellsworth 763 2 Ellsworth to Calais 779 55. BRUNSWICK TO GARDINER, AUGUSTA, AND QUEBEC 783 Via Waterville, Skowhegan, and Jackman. 56. NEWPORT TO DOVER AND MOOSEHEAD LAKE 786 RETURNING VIA KENDUSKEAG TO BANGOR 57. BELFAST TO BANGOR AND HOULTON 788 Via the Penobscot, Old Town, and Patten. DIRECTORIES FERRIES AND STEAMSHIPS 791 DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, TEA ROOMS, GARAGES, REAL ESTATE DEALERS, SHOPS, ETC. 794 NEW ENGLAND SCHOOLS 810 NEW ENGLAND SUMMER CAMPS FOR BOYS AND GIRLS 813 PUBLISHERS' ANNOUNCEMENTS 816 FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND 817 HIGHWAY CONSTRUCTION 825 INDEX 828 SARGENT'S HANDBOOK SERIES 844 LIST OF MAPS Key Map of New England, inside front cover; Key Map of Eastern Mass., inside back cover; Plan of New Haven, 96; Plan of Hartford, 112; Plan of Providence, 185; Exit routes from New York City, 221; Route Map of Connecticut region, 284-5; Plan of Concord, Mass., 425; Route Map of Rhode Island region, 433; Plan of Cambridge and Harvard Univer- sity, 470; Entrance routes to Boston, 482; Plan of Newport, 589- LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE THE TOM PAINE HOUSE, NEW ROCHELLE 69 THE HISTORIC BURR MANSION, F AIRFIELD 84 THE ROMANTIC OLD ELY MANSION, LONGMEADOW 121 THE SALISBURY HOUSE, WORCESTER 138 THE OLD STONE HOUSE, GUILFORD 153 THE SULLIVAN DORR HOUSE, PROVIDENCE 187 THE FAIRBANKS HOUSE, DEDHAM, 1636, THE OLDEST WOODEN HOUSE IN AMERICA 2OI THE VAN CORTLANDT MANSION, VAN CORTLANDT PARK, NEW YORK 203 THE HISTORIC PHILIPSE MANOR, YONKERS 224 "FOR GOD AND COUNTRY." THE OLD FIRST CHURCH AND BATTLE MONUMENT, BENNINGTON 259 THE OLD GOVERNOR OLIVER WOLCOTT MANSION, LITCH- FIELD 277 THE WEBB HOUSE, 'HOSPITALITY HALL,' WETHERSFIELD 297 HIGH-BOY SCROLL DOORWAY OF THE ELEAZER PORTER HOUSE 324 THE MEETING HOUSE, LENOX 389 THE BOYHOOD HOME OF CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER, CHARLEMONT 413 THE WAYSIDE, CONCORD 426 THE DE WOLF-COLT MANSION, BRISTOL. DESIGNED BY RUSSELL WARREN 441 PAUL REVERE HOUSE, BOSTON 461 THE CRAIGIE-LONGFELLOW HOUSE, CAMBRIDGE 465 MASSACHUSETTS HALL, 1720, HARVARD COLLEGE 467 THE FIFTH MEETING HOUSE, LANCASTER. DESIGNED BY BULFINCH 5OI PRINCETON FROM JONES HILL, LOOKING TOWARD MT. WACHUSETT 503 THE PARSON CAPEN HOUSE, TOPSFIELD 515 THE QUINCY MANSION, KNOWN AS THE DOROTHY Q. HOUSE, QUINCY 521 THE OLD SHIP CHURCH, HINGHAM, 1681 525 THE STANDISH COTTAGE, DUXBURY 535 THE STARK MONUMENT, MANCHESTER, N.H. 607 THE BALCH HOUSE, BEVERLY, 1638 651 THE WHIPPLE HOUSE (1650), IPSWICH 654 THE WARNER HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH 668 FORT MCCLARY, KITTERY, ME. 672 THE PAGE HOUSE, DANVERS 691 W'HITTIER'S BIRTHPLACE, HAVERHILL 697 EDGECOMB BLOCKHOUSE, EDGECOMB, ME. 768 FORT GEORGE, CASTINE, ME. 775 (12) INTRODUCTORY IN PREPARATION For the Second Edition, 1917 Local Authorities and others interested are re- quested to send notifications of errors and important omissions that will be of assistance in making the 1917 Revision more accurate and better proportioned. Photographs for illustrations of notable old houses, antique doorways and important monuments, town and local maps, uncopy righted, or with permission to use in compiling new maps will be appreciated and acknowledged. EDITORIAL FOREWORD In defense of this book the editor wishes to make it clear that this is a first edition, a beginning, not an end. The present book is frankly an inadequate treatment of a great and worthy theme. Revised editions must appear before an adequate result is attained. This Handbook of New England has not been made primarily for the intellectual divertissement of New Englanders. The visitor, on the other hand, the stranger from without our gates, the "Man from Missouri," has been kept constantly in mind. The desire has been to divulge in a large way to the possible or actual visitor what New England holds for him. To attempt to enlighten the intelligent New Englander in regard to the history, antiquities, or modern developments of his own town is wholly beyond the limitations of this volume. We have sought only to bring together what the casual visitor or tourist most wants to know, what the well-informed resident knows, about a town, why it is on the map, who made it, and what it now makes. The tests of what should be included, what omitted, have been frankly journalistic. The desire has been to select human interest information of contemporary value. While the publisher has had every desire to tell of the 'live' things of today rather than to dwell upon the past, he has not always been able to share the enthusiasm of the local citizen for "our new $30,000 gas plant" or the "new model concrete shoe factory," to the featuring this rather than some really great citizen or event of economic importance in the past. One purpose steadily kept in mind has been to present New Eng- land in an all-round way with a critical eye and a sense of proportion and with something of vision. For vision is perhaps what we most lack, and the accumulated and coordinated facts on which to base it. The New England of today, the New England that is really new, has been kept in the foreground. What a community is doing today, its industries, the people who live there, have been regarded as of first importance. What there is to say of antiquities, old houses, modern buildings, natural features, and the story connected there- with has been proportionately treated. But all this to have meaning must have added the background of the past. The New England of the Puritans with its origins of American institutions, brought to mind by ancient houses and his- torical landmarks, must always loom large in the imagination of any visitor. Eighteenth-century Colonial New England with its epi- sodes of the Revolution, its battle fields, historical monuments, and reminiscences of Tory and Patriot, will have prime interest for every American. The New England of the nineteenth century, of Daniel Webster, of William Lloyd Garrison, the period of upbuilding of our modern factory industries, will appeal to all interested in the development of American institutions. (IS) 1 6 EDITORIAL FOREWORD Much will be encountered in these pages which fails to coincide with accepted traditions. If by quoting reliable contemporary authorities, the falsity of generally accepted views can be shown, it is believed that some service will have been done. Many legends of New England, magnified by numerous repetitions, are dissipated by inquiry. The bleakness of New England, the barrenness of New England soil, the wickedness of the Tories and the sanctity of the Sons of Liberty, the self-abnegation of the Puritans, all are sub- jects worthy of elimination. It is natural enough to regard the past as more virtuous, to bestow a halo on characters of the past, but human nature in its fundamentals has not changed since the first settlement of New England, and any clear understanding of Colonial times must recognize that there was present the same desire for gain, for wealth and power as today. As anything like adequate treatment of the Commonwealths of New England was, of course, impossible in the brief compass per- mitted, a light, swift treatment has been given which may prove illuminating. Boston, too, would of course require a volume for adequate treatment, and has therefore been handled somewhat briskly. In treating of the great universities, again we have been somewhat appalled by the largeness of the theme, and so have been led to approach the subject in the naive manner of one who assumes nothing as granted. The purpose of the Introductory Chapters has been to illumine some particular phases of New England and its life, past or present, more completely than could be attained in the route descriptions. Anything like an encyclopedic treatise of the subject has been furthest from our purpose. The intent has been rather to touch upon the 'high spots,' each subject in a more or less journalistic way. As historical backgrounds are necessary, so it may not be too presumptuous to claim that no one can know his New England inti- mately unless he sees it with the vision of a million years. The chapter on the Geology has as its only purpose that of interpreting the physical features of New England in terms of the geologic past. The Editor is fully aware of more defects and shortcomings in this Handbook than the most captious critic is likely to discover. It is anticipated that there will be some local grumbling at criticism or inadequate treatment, which, if unfair, will be righted in future editions. All that is hoped for is that the volume may be recognized as having sufficient merit to warrant its being improved in successive annual editions. HOW THIS BOOK WAS MADE This is not a one-man book. Upward of a thousand live New Englanders have contributed to its making and the writings of at least as many dead ones. Without the generous assistance of public-spirited citizens throughout New England, the great mass of up-to-date matter could never have been brought together. The task of accumulating this information has been even larger than was origi- nally anticipated. Incidentally, it has necessitated the use of some 50,000 postage stamps. A little more than a year ago the work of accumulating material was begun. A reconnaissance was first made of all that had been published. Hundreds of lineal feet of classified shelves on New England and its history in the great libraries of Boston and New York were examined. Hundreds of books were listed and ran- sacked and periodical literature was searched for fugitive articles. All the more useful material was reduced to a card catalog of refer- ences and abstracts. Meanwhile a circular letter with a prospectus of the volume was sent to 3000 local authorities throughout New England, appealing for information, local contributions, references to literature, and the names of those specially interested in the history, antiquities, or in promoting the interests of their communities. This brought a wealth of information, and was the beginning of an extensive correspondence. A plan was worked out, a sketch map of routes with lists of towns made up, a file of clippings, maps, contributions, photographs, local booklets, pamphlets, and board of trade publications accumulated. From all this material preliminary ' copy ' was prepared in which many questions were asked and further requests for information made. This was sent to about five hundred correspondents in every locality, requesting corrections and additions. From the material which then flowed in and further accumulations from the files of local New England magazines, the remarkable 'morgue' of the "Youth's Companion," and from library investigation, the original manuscript was elaborated and rewritten. This was again sent out to local authorities for further correction and annotation, portions of the routes having in this way been successively revised and rewritten many times. The Introductory Chapters are similarly a composite work for which contributions have been received from many. Especially helpful has been the assistance of Messrs. Sylvester Baxter and Nathan Haskell Dole, and the constructive criticism of Messrs. Henry A. Barker and James P. Taylor. Nothing has been published which has not been submitted to local authorities. ' Some of the manuscript has been critically read by a score or more of those locally interested. Similarly the proof sheets, as rapidly as they were ready, have been again sent out. Chambers (17) l8 HOW THIS BOOK WAS MADE of Commerce, Publicity Bureaus, Librarians, Local Historians, Pub- licity Departments of leading firms and manufacturers, Editors of local newspapers, State Highway Commissions, Heads of Private Schools and Colleges have all contributed. In all, somewhat over a thousand individual contributions have been so elicited. Acknowledgment is gratefully made to the Houghton Mifflin Company for their courtesy in granting permission to use quotations from their copyrighted editions of the New England Poets, and to Little, Brown & Co., and others for similar privileges. A staff of investigators and writers, in all about twenty, has been engaged in bringing together and putting in shape this accumulation of material. Mr. Edgar W. Anthony, Jr., Harvard '12, did a large part of the preliminary investigation. Miss Cecilia Rogers has had general charge of the material on northern New England, and Miss Marguerite Waldmyer (Wellesley, sp.), of southern New England. The technical details of standardization and presswork have been in the hands of Mr. John Chilton Scammell, Harvard '07. In the final editing, the assistance has been secured of such well- known authors and publicists as Mr. George Gladden and Miss Sarah Comstock for the region near New York, Mr. Oscar Fay Adams for eastern Massachusetts, Mr. Sylvester Baxter for Metro- politan Boston, and Mr. Nathan Haskell Dole for portions of Maine. Grateful acknowledgment must be made to the hundreds of public- spirited New Englanders who by contributions, corrections, and constructive criticism have greatly aided in the making of this book. To Mr. Henry A. Barker and his sister, Mrs. Gardner, belong a large degree of any credit that may attach to the Rhode Island sections of this book. The Rev. Frank S. Child of Fairfield, Conn., has been untiring in his assistance. Mr. Leonard Withington of Portland, Me., and Mrs. F. E. Chadwick of Newport, R.I., also deserve special recognition for their contributions. Among others to whom acknowledgment is due, the following are but representative: MAINE. Cyrus C. Babb, Dist. Engineer, Geol. Survey, Augusta; C. B. Bolles, Editor, Bar Harbor; George B. Dorr, Bar Harbor; Charles H. Fogg, Third Vice Pres. Me. Autom. Assoc., Houlton; Maurice W. Hamblen, Bridgton; Mrs. Emma J. Hosmer, Lib'n, Camden Pub. Lib.; Fritz H. Jordan, W. S. Jordan & Co., Portland; W. F. Livingston, Asst. Lib'n, Maine State Lib., Augusta; Paul D. Sargent, Chf. Engineer State Highway Comm., Augusta; H. L. Shepherd, Pres. S. E. & H. L. Shepherd Co., Rockport; Frank D. Tubbs, Dept. of Geol. & Astronomy, Bates College, Lewiston; Rev. Daniel Munro Wilson, Kennebunk; Leonard Withington, Sec. Chamber of Commerce, Portland. NEW HAMPSHIRE. Ernest Harold Baynes, Gen. Mgr., The Meriden Bird Club, Meriden; Edward A. Benner, Dir. Camp Wellesley, Ossipee; George Waldo Browne, Author and Editor, Manchester; Daniel W. Cole, Sec. Board of Trade, Hillsboro; Olin S. Davis, Pub. Lib., Laconia; Frederic E. Everett, State Highway Comm., Concord; Miss Mary Morison, Trustee Peterboro Town Lib., Peterboro; E. Bertram Pike, Pres. Pike Mfg. Co., Pike; George Israel Putnam, U.S.A., Charlestown; F. W. Shelton, Pres. Board of Trade, Henniker; Mrs. Jere L. Smith, Smithtown. HOW THIS BOOK WAS MADE 19 VERMONT. Guy W. Bailey, Sec. of State, Essex Junction; Willard W. Bartlett, Sec. Vt. Improvement As., Bennington; S. B. Bates, State Highway Comm., Franklin; Warwick S. Carpenter, Wood- ford; Winston Churchill, Novelist, Windsor; Sherman Evarts, Windsor; Edward T. Fairbanks, Lib'n St. Johnsbury Athenaeum, St. Johnsbury; C. J. Farnsworth, Camp Hanoum, Thetford; Percy MacKaye, Dramatist, Windsor; A. C. Mason, Sec. Rutland Bus. Men's As., Rutland; Prof. G. H. Perkins, State Geologist, Burling- ton; Homer Saint-Gaudens, Windsor; James P. Taylor, Greater Vt. As., Burlington; John M. Thomas, Pres., Middlebury Coll., Middlebury; E. Lee Whitney, Vt. State Lib., Montpelier. MASSACHUSETTS. Frederick S. Allis, Alumni Council, Amherst Coll., Amherst; Prof. L. B. Allyn, the McClure Publications, West- field; William Sumner Appleton, Cor. Sec. of Soc. for Pres. of N.E. Antiquities, Boston; Roger W. Babson, Wellesley Hills; Bertha E. Blakeley, Mt. Holyoke College, South Hadley; Charles B. Blanch- ard, Brookline; E. J. Carpenter, Sec. Cape Cod Pilgrim Mem. As., Provincetown; O. B. Carson, American Optical Co., Southbridge; Mrs. William Catto, Nahant; Rev. W. L. Chaffin, North Easton; Walter Channing, Dover; F. L. Claflin, Pres. First National Bank, Marlboro; Charles H. Clark, W. G. Clark & Co., North Attleboro; George E. Coates, Sec. Chamber of Commerce, Lynn; Samuel B. Corr, Sec. Cape Cod Board of Trade, Sandwich; Sarah E. Getting, Lib'n, Marlboro; Mrs. Mary P. Cushman, Brookline; A. W. Dean, State Highway Comm., Boston; George Francis Dow, Sec. Essex Inst., Salem; Dr. Gilman A. Drew, Dir. Marine Biological Lab., Woods Hole; Walter Pritchard Eaton, Dramatic Critic, Stock- bridge; Frederick L. Emery, Lexington; George E. Foss, Sec. Board of Trade, Springfield; Dr. J. M. French, Milford; C. W. Frye, Scituate; Dr. Claude M. Fuess, Phillips Andover Academy, Andover; Augustus A. Galloupe, Beverly; Albert E. Hale, Newbury- port; Hon. John O. Hall, Sec. Board of Trade, Quincy; Gerard Hallock, Head Master Hallock School, Great Barrington; Frank Hosmer, Pres. Board of Trade, Amherst; Clifton Johnson, Hadley; Miss Clara A. Jones, Free Lib., Warwick; William Littler, Sec. Chamber of Commerce, Brockton; William G. Lord, Athol; Dr. John S. Lyon, Chamber of Commerce, Holyoke; Miss Katharine P. Loring, Prides Crossing; Prof. Wm. E. McElfresh, Williams Coll., Williamstown; Ambert G. Moody, Treas. Northfield Schools, East Northfield; Prof. Anson D. Morse, Amherst Coll., Amherst; Wallace Nutting, Art Photographer, Framingham; Professor George Herbert Palmer, Harvard Univ., Cambridge; Dr. Fred S. Piper, Lexington; Edgar Potter, Framingham; Rev. L. M. Powers, Gloucester; R. D. Redfern, Sec. Board of Trade, Fitchburg; John Ritchie, Jr., M.I.T., Boston; Porter Sargent, Pres. Powow Na- tional Bank, Amesbury; Horace S. Sears, Weston; Mrs. George Sheldon, Deerfield; Arthur A. Shurtleff, Landscape Architect, Bos- ton; F. E. Smith, Editor, Newburyport; Dr. F. H. Smith, Hadley; Gen. Luther Stephenson, Hingham; Samuel D. Stevens, North Andover, Mass.; Howard E. Taylor, Sec. Board of Trade, Pittsfield; Louis B. Thacher, Boston; John E. Thayer, Ornithologist, Lancas- ter; Eben Francis Thompson, Worcester; F. N. Thompson, Green- 20 HOW THIS BOOK WAS MADE field; Fred W. Tibbets, Sec. Board of Trade, Gloucester; George P. Tilton, Newburyport; Harold S. Walker, Lynn; Dr. George E. Waterman, Boston; Mrs. G. F. Welsh, Sec. D.A.R., North Scituate; Frank H. Whitmore, Brockton Pub. Lib., Brockton; Dr. D. M. Wilcox, Lee; Miss Susan Willard, Hingham; Miss Mabel L. Wood- fall, Rockport; Miss Emma Woolley, Pres. Holyoke Coll., Holyoke. RHODE ISLAND. Prof. Charles W. Brown, Brown University, Providence; Mrs. F. E. Chadwick, Vice-Pres. Soc. for Pres. of N.E. Ant., Newport; Caroline Hazard, Ex-pres. Wellesley Coll., Peace- dale; Irving W. Patterson, Chf. Eng., State Board Pub. Roads, Providence; Mrs. Henry Wharton, Saunderstown. CONNECTICUT. Helen B. Alford, Lib'n, Shelton; Elizabeth M. Avery, Groton; Miss Celeste E. Bush, Sec. East Lyme Hist. Soc., Niantic; Prof. Guy S. Callender, Yale Univ., New Haven; Walter Camp, Pres. New Haven Clock Co., New Haven; W. S. Chase, Mil- ford; Rev. F. S. Child, Historian, Fairfield; Miss Elvira C. Clapp, East Windsor; George L. Clark, author "History of Connecticut," Wethersfield; Charles H. Dilworth, Sec. Chamber of Commerce. Norwalk; R. H. Fisk, Stafford Springs; Abbot Foster, Litchfield; Miss Jeannette Gaylord, Gaylordsville; George S. Godard, State Lib.. Hartford; John Calvin Goddard, Sec. Board of Trustees, Hotchkiss School, Lakeville; Mrs. Mary Hoadley Griswold, Guilford; Her- mann Hagedorn, Poet, Fairfield; A. B. Hall, Hotchkiss School, Lakeville; G. E. Hamlin, Highway Comm., Hartford; Judge Fred- erick A. Hubbard, author of "Other Days in Greenwich," Green- wich; Dr. Nelson H. Hume, Canterbury School, New Milford; John Humphrey, Sec. Chamber of Commerce, New London; N. R. Jesup, Sec. Board of Trade, Stamford; Charles E. Julin, Sec. Cham- ber of Commerce, New Haven; Simon Lake, Pres. The Lake Tor- pedo Boat Co., Bridgeport; Daniel D. Lovelace, Exec. Sec. Chamber of Commerce, Danbury; W. B. McCarthy, Pres. Rostand Mfg. Co., Milford; Mrs. Wm. T. Marsh, Litchfield; N. W. Munn, New Hart- ford; C. G. Nichols, Chief Clerk, State Highway Comm., Hartford; Norris Osburn, editor the "Journal-Courier," New Haven; Mrs. Sarah Ely Parsons, The Ely School, Greenwich; Miss Theodate Pope, Vice-Pres. Soc. for Pres. of N. E. Ant., Farmington; M. D. Rudd, Lakeville; Henry B. Sargent, Pres. Sargent & Co., New Haven; George Seymour, Lawyer, New Haven; Rev. S. O. Seymour, Litchfield; W. G. Snow, Adv. Mgr. International Silver Co., Meri- den; Jonathan Trumbull, Otis Lib., Norwich; E. M. Warner, Put- nam; Judge George M. Woodruff, Litchfield. NEW YORK. W. W. Baldwin, Jr., Gen. Pass. Agt., N.Y., West- chester & Boston Ry. Co., New York City; W. E. Collins, New York City; Jay Downer, Eng. & Sec. Bronx Parkway Comm., New York City; Albert H. Ely, Jr., New York City; Will S. Hadaway, New Rochelle; Irving J. Morris, Sec. State Highway Comm., Albany; Henry R. Towne, Dir. Yale & Towne Mfg. Co., New York City. NEW ENGLAND IN THE LARGE New England may be tucked up in a corner of the United States, but it has been the cornerstone of the nation, veritably "tin- head- stone of the corner." It is more than a provincial section, more than an arbitrary division of six States, more than a body of tradition. New England has always been an influence, a force that continues to make itself felt throughout the country and beyond. The New England settlers were pioneers and their descendants have never ceased pioneering. The expansion of New England has largely made the West. The first settlers of the Northwest Terri- tory and Texas were New Englanders. It is New England's energy and wealth, her capital and brains, which have largely developed the resources of the country. The New England district is the most distinctly marked physio- graphic region of North America. Except for a narrow isthmus less than three miles wide between the headwaters of the Hudson and Lake George, it is separated from the rest of the continent by the Champlain, Hudson, and St. Lawrence valleys. From Albany to New York only one bridge, at Poughkeepsie, spans the river, so that an invading force holding the Hudson and Champlain valleys could completely isolate New England. Nature thrust New England out into the ocean in such a manner that the Pilgrims on their way from Holland to the Delaware were lured to a landfall by the beckoning arm of Cape Cod. Storm-bat- tered and fog-bound in the harbor of Provincetown they entered into the famous compact in which the wanderers "do solemnly and mutually in the presence of God and of one another covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic for our better ordering and preservation." And so the character and his- tory of New England was determined. The Puritans followed, "the seed sifted from a whole nation for this planting." So it was that New England became a Puritan land, a land of dis- senters, a land of pioneers. From the first, New England has led the nation in education. She had the first Colonial grammar school, the first college, the first free elementary school, the first academy, the first high school, and the first normal school. Today New England's schools and col- leges are still first. Her teachers have been educational mission- aries. Even in Colonial times the Connecticut school master taught school all over the country. New England has led in the founding of the nation's educational institutions. The academies and colleges in the Northwest Terri- tory, Oberlin, Knox, and Beloit, were established by New England- ers. Millions of dollars have been contributed to the South for the support of Hampton, Berea, Fisk, and Tuskegee. In the last half of the nineteenth century, George Peabody of Danvers, John F. Slater of Norwich, and Daniel Hand of Guilford gave over $5,000,000 (21) 22 NEW ENGLAND IN THE LARGE for education in the South. Rockefeller has merely followed in their footsteps. New England's educational influence spreading beyond the nation's borders founded the Huguenot Seminary in South Africa, and Robert College at Constantinople, which has been such a potent influence in the making of modern Bulgaria. Amer- ica's four greatest educators of the nineteenth century, Horace Mann, Henry Barnard, William T. Harris, and Charles W. Eliot, were New Englanders. The pioneers in woman's education, Emma Willard, Mary Lyon, Sarah Pierce, Catherine Beecher, were all of New England. During the first three quarters of the nineteenth century, the number of distinguished men New England produced was out of all proportion to its population. Though no longer in the same rela- tive position, New England is still in the ascendant as a producer of American leaders. Of men worthy to be included in "Who's Who" New England shows the largest number in proportion to population, with Vermont first for the States and Cambridge for the cities. Scott Nearing in his "The Younger Generation of American Genius," restricting his study to 2000 born since 1869, finds that Cambridge has 47.5 to the 100,000 population, closely followed by Nashville, Tenn., with 34.5; Columbus, O., with 26.5; Lynn, Mass., with 24.8; and Washington, D.C., with 20.2. The population of New England according to the 1910 U.S. Census was 6,552,681, about one third that of New York and Pennsylvania combined. 40.3 per cent were of native parentage, 31.7 per cent of foreign parentage and 28 per cent foreign-born, or nearly 60 per cent were of foreign-born parents. With 7 per cent of the pop- ulation of the country, New England contained 13.6 per cent of the foreign-born, 25 per cent of all the Irish, 16 per cent of all the Greeks, and 30 per cent of all the Turks. "Bleak New England" is a phrase that has been parroted from Puritan times. It may have seemed bleak to the grim Puritan who toted his gun to the meeting house and suspected a tomahawking savage hiding behind every tree, when muttering witches rode on restive brooms, or swung from the gallows. But to any sunny- minded person New England is not bleak, was not, and never will be. In simple and varied natural beauty, few portions of the Foot- stool can compare with it. On her summer climate and scenic beauty New England realizes heavily. Together they are responsible for the tremendous numbers of summer visitors, resulting in a summer increase in the population of probably 25 per cent. Caring for summer visitors brings New England an annual income of over $60,000,000, greater than the annual income yield of Alaska's gold mines. The whole coast from the Connecticut shore around Cape Cod, along the Massachusetts and Maine coast to Mount Desert, is one almost continuous summer pleasure ground lined with cottages, residences, estates, and hotels. The Litchfield hills, the Berkshires, southern New Hampshire, Vermont, the upper Connecticut valley, the White Mountains, have innumerable summer colonies. Alto- gether the capital invested in summer homes and summer resorts in New England represents hundreds of millions. NEW ENGLAND IN THE LARGE 23 The "barren rocky soil of New England" is another legend that has been prevalent since the first perfervid patriotic orators used it to magnify the virtues and sacrifices of the Pilgrim forefathers. The conception is fundamentally untrue. Nowhere on the face of the earth are there richer agricultural lands than the meadows of the Connecticut, Farmington, and other New England rivers. Nowhere else in the United States can a tobacco crop be produced that sells for $3.50 per pound, and for a whole State averages a net yield of $300 an acre. The acreage valuation of New England's farm land according to the 1910 U.S. Census was $24, as against $95 in Illinois and $82 in Iowa. This is evidence of the cheapness of the land rather than of its low worth when properly cultivated. Every acre of improved farm land in New England produces annually a product worth $7 more than a similar acre in Illinois or Iowa. The value of New England farm property in the past decade has increased nearly 75 per cent and the increase will continue. The agricultural crops of New England according to the 1910 Census were worth $141,000,000, an increase of 48 per cent over the previous decade. New England excelled all other divisions in the United States in the average yield per acre of corn, wheat, vege- tables, and tobacco. Dairying is the largest single agricultural business in New England. There are probably 100,000 farmers producing milk for sale and the annual value of dairy products is about $50,000,000. The "decadence of New England," a popular fiction a decade ago, was based largely on the abandoned farm. Most of these have since been snapped up and made over into summer recuperating places for professional and business men. New England has been the nursery of American literature, art, and music, and now that these have grown to man's estate they still thrive rather better on their native soil than elsewhere. But New England is an industrial community. The output of the factories far exceeds in value all other products. Early initiative, innate inventiveness, waterpower, seaports, and an abundant sup- ply of foreign cheap labor, coupled with New England thrift and capital and a willingness to risk it on any paying venture, have kept New England to the fore. The textile center of the country, its cotton and woolen mills rep- resent an investment of $630,000,000 with an annual output of $523,000,000. New England makes half the shoes of the country and is the leading shoe and leather center of the world. The great- est jewelry and silverware producing center is in New England. It is the home of paper-making. New England still remains 'new'; still has great potentialities, and the capital, brains, and energy to realize on them. OLD NEW ENGLAND A Geological Interpretation and Retrospect Cut off by the Hudson, Champlain, and St. Lawrence valleys, the New England section of North America is one of the most distinctly marked of all the many geographic regions of the continent. It presents a variety and detail of physical features paralleled only in northern Europe. This peculiarly varied surface of New England has been the result of a long combination of geological events. The New England district has been more frequently and for a longer aggregate time above the level of the sea than any other part of the region south of the Great Lakes. This has resulted in the erosion of the unchanged later rocks, thereby exposing the deep- lying metamorphic and crystalline rocks. The topography and the consequent diversified areas of fertile soil have nowhere more com- pletely controlled the history of a region than in New England. The site of the earliest settlements, and the later growth of industries and centers of population, have been determined and controlled in the most intimate way by the geological history. To the visitor coming to New England from the Mohawk valley of central New York where the rock strata lie horizontal, or from the Appalachian region of Pennsylvania where there is a distinct order to the folded strata of the parallel mountain ridges, the varied scenery of New England presents a peculiar charm. Usually seen from the limited point of view of valley or lowland, it produces an impression of tumbled hills and rock ridges, of lakes and rivers, without order or system. Something of its charm lies in this element of the unexpected. But there is, perhaps, an even greater satisfac- tion and pleasure to be gained in seeing the country more discern- ingly as revealing a harmony and order of successive events through geologic time which have made it what it is. The trained eye of the geologist or geographer, looking over the landscape of New England, sees it with a vision extending back into time long before history began. The sculptured forms of the hills and valleys speak to him of processes that have been going on through geologic time. From this point of view no one can intimately know and comprehend New England whose acquaintance with it does not extend back at least a few million years. It is worth while to at- tempt to see New England through such long-vision glasses. Standing on a hilltop almost anywhere in New England on a clear day, and looking around at the horizon, one notices that the high- level surfaces of one hill after another, approach the plane of the circular skyline. It requires but little imagination to recognize in the successive hilltops the remains of a once even and continuous surface of what was once a great plain, from which the valleys of (24) OLD NEW ENGLAND '25 today have been carved out by the erosive action of flowing water. This is most easily recognized from a considerable elevation. Es- pecially in the broad upland high level areas of western Massachu- setts at Whitcombs Summit on the Mohawk Trail is this apparent. Southern New England is, in truth, a 'dissected upland,' gently slanting upward from sea level in the south and east, and rising, in northwestern Massachusetts, to elevations of several thousand feet. About a score or more million years ago, in what geologists call the Cretaceous period, all of southern New England had been worn down by the eon-long erosion of water and atmosphere until it was for the most part a plain almost at sea level. Geographers call this a 'peneplain,' bearing the same relation to a plain as a peninsula does to an island. This plain was not worn down evenly, because the rocky mass that goes to make up the crust of this region of the earth varies greatly in its resistance. Those isolated resistant masses of hard rock, like the Blue Hills, Mt. Wachusett, and Mt. Monadnock, are called in general by the modern geographer 'monadnocks.' South of the Blue Hills there are few of these in New England. Durfee Hill in north-central Rhode Island, the highest in that State, is one of these monadnocks which must be looked on as old mountain masses worn down to mere stumps. The Blue Hills have probably had removed from their slopes and summits, by the slow action of the water, thousands of feet of rock. Mt. Everett, and Greylock in the Berkshires, the White Mountains, Katahdin, and the Green Mountain peaks are remnants of mountains once Alpine-high. Since that time this land has been tilted until in the region of North Adams the whole area has been elevated a couple of thousand feet, and as this tilting went on new valleys have been worn by the water. Those of western New England are deeper because as the land has been more elevated, the rivers have cut more deeply. Some of these trenched valleys are quite canyon-like. The Deerfield valley is already, startling as it may seem, one fourth as deep as the Grand Canyon. The Naugatuck valley, near Waterbury, is a narrow, trenched valley which has been cut to a depth of five hundred feet below the general level of the surrounding country. The breadth of these valleys has been determined by the relative resistance of the rocks to wear. The upper portion of the Housatonic valley in Massachusetts, where it is broad and generally known as the Berkshire valley, lies along a belt of weak limestones which have wasted away under the erosive action of the weather and water. The lower Housatonic in western Connecticut cuts through a region of hard crystalline rocks and here its sides are steep and bold. Through this region the Housatonic descends five hundred and sixty feet, affording waterpowers which recently have been largely utilized. The valley of Millers River, which enters the Connecticut river in northern Massachusetts, varies in width as it crosses belts of harder or weaker crystalline rocks. Between Athol and Orange, where the rocks are weak, the valley is wide; above and below where its course is through harder rocks, it has been able to wear only a narrow gorge. The Connecticut river, from its source to northern Massachusetts, flows through a region of hard crystalline rocks in which it has during 26 OLD NEW ENGLAND millions of years worn a long narrow valley. From northern Massa- chusetts southward to the Sound, a distance of ninety miles, the valley is from fifteen to eighteen miles in width. This increased breadth is not due to the greater size of the river but to the relative weakness of the rocks through which it flows. The rocks of the Connecticut Basin are unlike those of any other portion of New England. They consist of sandstones and shales of a reddish or brown color, due to small quantities of iron. The brown sandstone, so generally utilized some decades ago for the house fronts of respecta- bility in both New York and Boston, is a Connecticut sandstone, for the most part quarried at Portland. The soils of the lower Con- necticut valley have a prevailing reddish tinge because of the rocks from which they have been formed. The Connecticut lowland is not primarily the valley of the Con- necticut river, but consists of the wide open confluent valleys of a number of streams of which the Connecticut is the master. The lowland extends southward to New Haven, but the river at Middle- town turns eastward and flows through a narrow valley in the hard crystalline rocks of the eastern upland, entering the Sound at Say- brook. Seen from the margin of the upland, this Connecticut lowland appears a long, deep trough. The crystalline highlands mark the level at which the peneplain extended across the valley. Originally the lowland was a geosyncline or down-folding of rock strata forming a trough which in Mesozoic time became filled with strata of relatively soft sandstone and shale. At the time these sediments were accumulating, the lowland was a great lake or estuary and on its broad mud flats reptilians of the time have left the so-called 'bird tracks' so numerous at Turners Falls, of which there is a most extraordinary collection in the Amherst College Museum. These softer rocks have been worn away by water action more rapidly than the harder rocks of the uplands to form the present broad trough of the Connecticut valley lowland. The terraces which are so characteristic along the Connecticut and Merrimack valleys are also to be noted in the valleys of all the major streams of New England. They mark remaining portions of successive flood plains which the river formed as the result of changes in the level of the land. They are not, as Hitchcock supposed and as is still popularly believed, due in any considerable measure to glacial action in the Glacial time, but are the result of oscillations of the land level, successive subsidence and elevation. The floor of the Connecticut valley lowland is relatively level, a peneplain of the second generation. From the valley floor stand out ridges and masses of hard trap rock like Mt. Tom, near North- ampton, and the Hanging Hills of Meriden. All of them are steep- faced to the westward. They are fragments of faulted and tilted lava sheets which were formed interstratified with the beds of shale and sandstone. Mt. Carmel, north of New Haven, is probably a volcanic 'neck,' the stump of the ancient volcano from which some of these lava sheets were poured forth. Near Meriden, on the slope of Lamentation Mountain, is a locality known as the 'ash bed' where may be seen the volcanic ash of one of these eruptions, now hardened into rock. Imbedded in it are fragments of scorea and OLD NEW ENGLAND 27 'volcanic bombs,' rounded masses which fell into the ash bed in a half-molten form. There were three successive flows of lava of which the second was the greatest, having a thickness of 500 feet. Its uptilted fragments form the highest of the mountains of the Connecticut valley. These sheets of volcanic trap are interstratified with sheets of shale, sand- stone, and conglomerate, evidence that between the periods of vol- canic action there was subsidence and deposition. After this period further great movements in the earth's crust resulted in the fracturing of these strata of lava and sandstone and tilting them to the angle at which they now lie. The softer shales and sandstones were worn away and the edges of the lava sheets left in high relief where they constitute the characteristic ridges and hills of the Connecticut valley extending from East and West Rocks near New Haven northward to Mt. Holyoke and Mt. Tom. The region of Narragansett Bay is similar to the Connecticut valley, a geosynclinal down-folding in which during the Carboniferous period there was deposition. These Carboniferous strata extending up into Massachusetts contain some fossils and in Rhode Island considerable beds of coal which have at various times been exploited but have proved too hard to be of actual commercial value. The Boston Basin is also a region in which are some stratified rocks still more ancient, probably chiefly Cambrian. Near Weymouth at Hayward's Quarry is a famous locality where fossil trilobites, relatives of our modern horseshoe crabs, have been found, eighteen inches in length. The Taconic and the Green Mountains are an extension of the Appalachian Mountain system, probably formed at the same time. Their folded and highly metamorphosed strata are probably Silurian or earlier. The upper portion of the Connecticut valley occupies a syncline in the metamorphosed schists. The course of the river, like that of most of the major streams in New England, was deter- mined at the close of the Cretaceous period. .The misconception which popularly exists that stream courses have been largely de- veloped since the Glacial time is quite incorrect. Even the minor stream valleys in the hard crystallines of New England are of vastly greater age. The ice sheet which covered New England during the Glacial time was thick enough to cover hills as well as valleys. In eastern Massa- chusetts it certainly was 2000 feet thick and its front lay out in the sea at least fifty miles to the east of Boston. In the successive ad- vances and retreat of the edge of the ice sheet, it scraped up loose soil, wore down rock surfaces, deepened valleys, transported boulders, gravel and detritus, and left the country mantled with a sheet of glacial drift or till. It blocked stream courses and formed the many lakes and ponds which dot New England. . Along its southern boundary it left great ridges of detritus, known as terminal moraines. In southern New England there are three distinct terminal moraines that may be distinguished. The outer one lies along Nantucket, Marthas Vineyard, and the hills of Long Island. The second ex- tends along Cape Cod, the Elizabeth Islands, and from Point Judith across southern Rhode Island and Connecticut. The third line 28 OLD NEW ENGLAND stretches from the Manomet hills, below. Plymouth, westward to the Hudson river. But the popular view that Nantucket, Marthas Vineyard, and Cape Cod are formed merely from such glacial de- tritus is incorrect. Professor Shaler first showed that underlying these glacial deposits there are strata of much earlier age, and at Gay Head on Marthas Vineyard the highly colored strata which give the name are as old as the Cretaceous. Throughout eastern New England, from Maine to Connecticut, are characteristic lenticular hills, known as drumlins. These were probably formed under the ice sheet where it met with impediment in its progress, which caused it to deposit its detritus. Such drumlins are especially noted at Ipswich, Groton, Boston Harbor, and in the neighborhood of Pomfret. Near the margin of the ice sheet there were formed irregular hills of washed and partially stratified drift known as kames. The cliffs at Scituate are of this formation. Long ridges extending generally north to south, of glacial material without stratification, known as eskers, are found from Maine to Massachusetts. These mark the course of sub-glacial streams in the bed of which detritus washed from the glacier was deposited. With the accompanying table it may be possible to briefly sum- marize what has happened in New England these last hundred million years or so. During the Paleozoic period, New England was a moun- tainous region of Alpine heights. About the Boston Basin, especiall}- at Weymouth, we have a portion of its shore with the trilobites that inhabited its mud flats still preserved. The age-long action of frost and water wore away the mountains. During the Carboniferous period along the shores of Narragansett Bay, which then extended up into Massachusetts, were marshlands where grew a primitive vegetation of cycads and horsetails from which were formed the coal beds of Rhode Island. At the close of the Paleozoic that great earth contraction which formed the Appalachian wrinkles resulted in the Taconic and Green Mountains. With the dawn of the Mesozoic there were down-foldings of the earth's crust forming the long trough of the present Connecticut valley, accompanied by the uplift of neighboring areas. Sediments from the upland accumulated in the troughs. A somber vegetation, devoid of flowers, spread over the lands. Primitive reptiles and in- sects developed. On the mud flats of the Connecticut valley the dinosaur, the phytosaur, and the aetosaur left their tracks as they hopped or crawled. Ninety-nine species of these reptilians have been made out in these deposits which accumulated to a depth of 10,000 feet. The great accumulation of deposit washed from the surrounding highlands overloaded the earth's crust and weakened it, so that volcanoes broke forth and lava-flows overspread the region. This occurred at three successive intervals. At the close of the Jurassic, further earth movements resulted in the fracture and tilting of these interstratified beds of lava and sand- stones. During the following Cretaceous period these irregularities were worn down by the slow action of the elements until all southern New England was reduced to base level, forming a peneplain from which stood up monadnocks of the harder, more resistant rock. After the close of the Cretaceous period further earth contractions resulted OLD NEW ENGLAND in the tipping or tilting of this plain, bringing the level in western Massachusetts to an altitude of 2000 feet above sea level. In the following Tertiary period, mammals first made their appearance. The drainage from the higher slopes now began to wear out the deep river valleys as they are today. Not only the Connecticut and the Housatonic, but the smaller streams gradually had their courses determined for all time, and as the tilting gradually became accented, wore their way deeper into the rock. From the eastern brink of the Mohawk Trail, if one looks over the land, the level of the Cretaceous peneplain and the work that the Deerfield and other streams have accomplished since are apparent. Through this time, while the valleys were being carved out, the mastodon (see Northboro) and many other creatures that would startle one to encounter today, roamed over New England. In this glance backward, the coming of the ice sheet which lasted perhaps 100,000 years is but an incident, the historic period of man almost negligible. A TABULAR VIEW Of what has been doing in New England in the Past Million Years. LENGTH IN GEOLOGIC NAME ANIMALS OF STRATIGRAFHIC OROGENIC YEARS OF THE ERA THE TIME (What was made) (What made it) 30,000 PSYCHOZOIC Man Terraces, Lakes, Subsidence Human Waterfalls, Elevation Harbors Subsidence Glacial Glacial Deposits 3,000,000 CENOZOIC Mammals Tertiary Mastodons Gentle inclined uplift Q, OOO.OOO MESOZOIC Reptiles Course of N.E. rivers deter- mined Cretaceous Dinosaurs Gay Head Strata All N.E. a pene- plain Faulting Jurassic Volcanoes and lava-flows in Central N.E. Triassic Conn. Sand- Central lowland stone a brackish es- Metamorphism tuary 36,OOO,OOO PALEOZOIC Taconic Mts. Carboniferous Amphibians Narragansett formed Basin rocks deposited Devonian Fishes Western N.E. a land area Silurian Invertebrates Boston Basin Western N.E. a Strata sea Cambrian Trilobites Housatonic Volcanoes in limestone Eastern N.E. land area IOO,OOO,OOO PROTEROZOIC Primitive Formation of Mountain- invertebrates crystalline rocks building forces ARCHEOZOIC Protozoa form N.E. Alps. THE NEW ENGLAND CLIMATE New England has as glorious a climate as any region in the world. "What is so rare as a day in June" was of course written of the New England climate. It has inspired tributes from orators, humor- ists, poets, pessimists. One of the famous products of New England is its weather, and it's never out of mind. There is no monotony about it. It is a constant stimulus, not only to conversation, but to the boundless energy of the New Englander. It keeps the thermometer on the jump. The mercury has more ups and downs than Wall Street. It undergoes more vertical vicissitudes than the lifts of all the sky- scrapers. But in the coldest weather, mere mercury hibernates in the bulb. Then, only alcohol stays on the job. Again, on a summer day Boston thermometers will aspire to Chicago levels until a 'sea- turn' and then the east wind sends the silver thread scuttling. The New England climate is a serious matter. It has an economic value. It helps the Ice Trust. In winter the rivers and ponds are sawed up and huge sky-blue hunks stored away in great ice-houses which have a curious propensity to burn down. If the ice does not burn up it later tinkles in the festive cocktail, freezes well-flavored cream, enriches the Trust, and provides occupation in the gentle art of trust-busting for young U.S. Assistant District Attorneys. The summer climate of seashore and mountains with a little ad- mixture of view and garden truck is marketed to an ever-increasing horde of summer boarders. There used to be a course at Harvard on 'Appreciation of the Weather Report.' Most probably it is still running. The Univer- sity evidently felt that the callow undergraduates from the South and West needed some preparation for a thorough appreciation of the blessings to which they were being subjected. Halliday Witherspoon works off his grouches on the weather. In one of his fits of depression he wrote: "Somebody has said that if America had been discovered on the west coast that New England would still be a howling wilderness. I believe it. And nobody but the Pilgrim Fathers would have stuck as it was. ... So it happened that the 'Mayflower' brought exactly the right sort of people. I figure that our early settlers had kind of soured on themselves and maybe rather liked New England weather than not." One thing is certain: the stranger meeting New England weather for the first time will be sure to recognize it: it cannot be mistaken for anything else. New England weather is like a fascinating woman. Its very caprice makes it fascinating. Then why complain about it? Re- member the old proverb, "Talk of weather is the discourse of fools." Yet that old bear, Dr. Samuel Johnson, declared that when- ever two Englishmen met, their conversation was first and always on the weather. THE FLORA OF NEW ENGLAND The trees of New England are its crowning glory. Stripped of its foliage, the country would be bare and bleak indeed. To fully appreciate how large a part of New England is still wooded one should journey across it by balloon or aeroplane, and yet the gen- erally accepted view that before the coming of the white man the whole country was completely mantled with primeval forests is incorrect. There were stretches of open meadows along the river valleys, and, as today, great expanses of salt marsh along the coast. Verazzano in 1524 describes in the Narragansett Bay region "open plains twenty-five or thirty leagues in extent entirely free from trees." Each portion of New England has its characteristic trees. Enter- ing from the south or west the transition from the plant growth of New York and the Middle States will be gradual. The chestnut, an especially beautiful tree when in bloom, is predominant. The chestnut blight which is spreading from Pennsylvania northward into New England is working havoc with the chestnuts, and the forestry experts tell us that they will soon be a thing of the past. The commercial loss in many areas is heavy, as one in every six of our timber trees is a chestnut. The elm is perhaps the most beautiful and characteristic of New England's trees. It stands like a sentinel in the meadows or arches the village street in a friendly way. In the rich alluvial soil of the Connecticut valley it grows to prodigious size. The famous old elm at Wethersfield, twenty-six and a half feet in girth, is perhaps the largest. example of plant growth east of the Rockies. Numerous other magnificent examples of elms have attained a circumference of twenty-five feet and a height of over ninety. The American elm in New England presents a great variety of forms. There are the vase and the wineglass types. The vine elm has its slender trunk clothed in its own delicate foliage as with a vine. Others take on the manner of growth of apple or oak trees. The elm, too, has its enemies, the elm leaf beetle, which eats the leaves, and the leopard moth, which bores into the young twigs. New Haven, 'The Elm City,' is now almost devoid of elms, as is the Harvard Yard, whose beauty was due to its arching elms. New England's broad-girthed oaks are more like the English tree than those elsewhere in this country. The white oak is the noblest of the family. The Waverley oaks near Boston are the best known group of these, calculated by Professor Shaler to be a hundred years old. Beaman's oak, at Lancaster, Mass., is a notable specimen of the white oak, twenty-nine feet in circumference, and in the same town is the largest red oak in the country, sixteen feet in girth. Although by no means exclusively a New England tree the maple is one of the principal hardwood growths, and the sugar maple of the upper Connecticut valley yields Vermont's most popular product. (31) 32 THE FLORA OF NEW ENGLAND Through the middle belt of New England the white pine, the most beautiful of its family, grows more happily than elsewhere. Old Timothy D wight, who missed nothing, wrote a century ago: "The white pine is the noblest forest tree in New England, and probably in the world. . . . The sound of the wind in a grove of white pines has all the magnificence which attends the distant roar of the ocean." It is the most valuable timber tree of New England and many a farmer has found the growth of pine in a neglected wood lot or overgrown pasture the means of raising his mortgage. It is a tree of rapid growth and well repays planting. In Massa- chusetts large areas have been planted to white pine by the State, by corporations and individuals. A few of the primeval pines with a girth of upward of fifteen feet still stand at Carlisle, near Boston, and in the Pisgah primeval forest in southwestern New Hampshire. The white or canoe birch generally associated with the white pine is a tree of feminine attractiveness which makes a strong appeal to the eye of the artist. The gray birches are weaker sisters, growing farther south and on sterile soil, but even more languishingly graceful. The yellow birch is sturdier and less interesting. Northern New England is a region of spruce, whence comes the wood pulp for our papers. During the spring, the rivers of Maine and the Connecticut are clogged with huge drives of spruce logs. Along the Maine coast is Sarah Orne Jewett's "country of the pointed firs." On the drumlins and hills along the shores of Massa- chusetts Bay, the savin, or red cedar, vigorously points its spires. The mountain laurel, one of the most beautiful plants of the Ameri- can flora, grows in a belt across the middle of New England. For a few weeks in early summer it makes the woods indescribably lovely with its clusters of pink and white blossoms. The Cape has its own characteristic plant life, the scrub pine, the Christmas holly, the cranberry, and the bayberry, which yields a fragrant wax from which the early settlers made candles, an industry now revived. The arbutus is the most-sought-for flower in the spring. It is New England's mayflower, so named by the Pilgrims at Plymouth, although other flowers bear that name in other States. It comes almost before the snow is off the ground. There is such demand in the cities for its fragrant perfumed bunches that the Portuguese children have gathered it almost to extermination in some localities. Weedier and shabbier except when in bloom, the blue-flowered chic- ory abounds chiefly on the outskirts of Boston. Many of New England's most familiar shrubs and plants are immigrants. The buckthorn, the English hawthorn, the barberry, as well as the Black-eyed Susans and the ox-eye daisies which dot the meadows with blossoms, and the hordes of weeds that grow about our yards and barnyards, are almost all European in origin. ABORIGINES AND SLAVERY The Indians of New England have been so long gone as to be almost forgotten. In a few spots, at Gay Head, Mashpee, Orono, and Kingston, some descendants of mixed blood still survive. When in 1524 Verazzano, one of the first European visitors to the New England coast, sailed into Narragansett Bay, some twenty canoes full of natives greeted him. Delighted with their reception he stayed there a fortnight, making excursions into the interior. He describes their houses of split logs, nicely thatched, the abund- ance of copper ornaments, and well cultivated fields. The happy state of the aborigines pictured by Verazzano did not last. Shortly before 1600 the fierce Mohicans from the Hudson river fought their way through New England, subduing and levying tribute upon the tribes. Some of them, under the name of Pequots, finally settled in southeastern Connecticut. But the voyagers coast- ing these shores in the ensuing years found the shores of the bays and estuaries well peopled. Gosnold, in 1602 cruising along the coast of Cape Cod and Marthas Vineyard, has much to say of the natives, of their apparent prosperity, and gives a full and circumstantial account of their customs. When Martin Pring in 1603 sailed into Plymouth harbor, the natives were numerous. One hundred and twenty of them visited his men at one time. Champlain, in 1605 coasting as far south as Cape Cod Bay, tells of the natives and their well-tilled gardens where they grew corn, beans, squashes, pumpkins, and tobacco. In the following ten years Weymouth, Captain John Smith, and others left records of cruises along the New England coast. They all speak of the abundant native life. Weymouth kidnapped five Indians and carried them to England. Such practices made the Europeans un- popular with the natives. In the chronicles of the Pilgrim Fathers we read of the Cape Cod Indians: "These people are ill affected towards the English by reason of one Hunt, a master of a ship, who deceived the people and got them, under color of trucking with them, twenty out of this very place where we inhabit, and seven men from the Nausites, and carried them away, and sold them for slaves, like a wretched man (for twenty pound a man) that cares not what mischief he doth for his profit." In 1617 a frightful pestilence swept over New England, exterminat- ing half the natives. This was measles or smallpox, or both, proba- bly contracted from contact with the English. Eastern Massachu- setts was depopulated so that when the Pilgrims arrived at Plymouth, where Pring and Champlain had found a numerous population, the few timorous natives left were slow in making an appearance. The old Indian fields, cleared and fallow, lay ready to their hands. The Indians taught them how to plant their corn in hills and fer- tilize with fish. Bradford relates that in April, 1621, "They began (33) 34 ABORIGINES AND SLAVERY to plant their corne, in which service Squanto stood them in great stead, showing ye manner how to set it and after how to dress and tend it. And he tould them, excepte they got fish and set with it (in these old grounds) it would come to nothing." Thomas Morton in his "New England's Canaan" says, "You may see in one town- ship a hundred acres together set with fish, every acre taking 1000 of them, & an acre thus dressed will produce and yield as much corn as 3 acres without fish." From the Indians they learned how to store their corn in cribs set on posts, how to preserve the corn on the cob by braiding the husks, how to braid the corn-husks into mats, and how to pound the corn, for hominy, in a mortar, and many ways of durably staining and dyeing fabrics. The settlers received from the Indians as gifts of their long cultiva- tion, maize, squashes, pumpkins, beans, and tobacco. The art of maple sugar making had long been cultivated by the Indians, and an account of their methods was published in the Transactions of the Royal Society as early as 1634. The Indians taught the colonists how to make the brain-tanned deerskins, so soft and flexible for gar- ments. They learned from the Indians the use of hot steam baths and the sweating hut in illness. But the good Puritans did not take so kindly to such rigorous and cleansing methods of restoring health as they did to the Indian 'medicine man's' herbs. The Indian doctor was early called upon by the settlers for medical aid. Lobelia, witch hazel, cascara, Indian hemp were all derived from the native New England Indian materia medica. Wampum, the medium of exchange with the Indian tribes, soon be- came the common currency of the white settlers. Governor Winslow speaks of it as "their goulde." When he sent the spoils of King Philip to the King of England, he described them as "being his Crowne, his Gorge, and two Belts of their own making of their goulde or silver." Not only did the settlers quickly adopt the Indian mode of scouting and concealment in warfare, usages which have since become so widespread, but they learned from them methods of hunt- ing and trapping. The opportunities for profit in the new country created a demand for labor difficult to meet. The New England Indian was a creature of the wild; the Puritans wanted to make him a laborer. Soon the colonists were fining and imprisoning the natives for petty mis- demeanors, and utilizing their forced labor. Excuses which would not meet modern criticism were deemed sufficient to compel them to service. In 1634 a special grant of one Indian was made to Winthrop and another to his son. In 1637 Hugh Peter, hearing of dividends of women and children from the captives of the Pequot War, wrote to John Winthrop, Jr., that he would like "a young woman or girl or boy, if you think good. Also some boys for Ber- mudas." These latter of course were merely so much merchandise to be sold for profit. The New England Indians continued to be enslaved until the eighteenth century, or as long as the local tribes lasted. As the supply failed, Indians were imported from the Carolinas and they in turn were later supplanted by negroes. Though the records show a negro boy in Hartford as early as 1639, importation of negroes on a ABORIGINES AND SLAVERY 35 large scale did not begin until toward the end of the seventeenth century. In 1696 the brigantine "Sea Flower" of Boston, Thomas Winsor, master, imported from Africa to Rhode Island forty-seven negroes. Fourteen were there sold at thirty pounds per head, and the rest he carried by land "to Boston where their owners lived." Thereafter the rum and 'nigger' traffic of Rhode Island prospered. Governor Hopkins stated that for thirty years prior to 1764 Rhode Island annually sent eighteen vessels carrying rum to the slave coast. The trade was so profitable that Boston and Salem merchants naturally engaged in it, and many respectable names both in history and in present day affairs owed their rise to prominence to the fortunes so acquired. Boston was a considerable mart for negroes. In the "Boston News Letter" of 1736 were advertised "just imported from Guinea a parcel of likely young negro boys and girls." In 1762 were ad- vertised a "number of prime Goree and Senegal slaves." A writer in the "Boston News Letter" in 1769 claimed that "upon examining the imports of negroes, 23.743 were brought into this province" during the decade from 1756 to 1766. New England thrift swelled the profits of the trade. We see an example of it in the crafty instructions of Captain Simeon Potter of Bristol to his supercargo as to the African trade: "Worter ye Rum as much as possible and sell as much by the short mesuer as you can." 'The Cradle of Liberty' was in part built from profits of the slave trade which Peter Faneuil pursued successfully if not too scrupulously. The vessels engaged in the trade were mostly of small tonnage, one hundred tons and less. The space allowed the negroes during the voyage was from ten to twelve inches wide and three feet, nine inches high. All classes entered into the trade. A respectable elder whose ventures had proved successful returned thanks on Sunday "that an overruling Providence had been pleased to bring to this land of freedom another cargo of benighted heathen, to enjoy the blessing of a Gospel dispensation." The Rev. Ezra Stiles, later President of Yale College, and one of the first vigorous advocates of emancipa- tion, in his early days "sent a barrel of rum to Africa to be exchanged for a negro slave," claiming "it is a great privilege for the poor negroes to be taken from the ignorant and wicked people of Guiney and placed in a Christian land." Slavery flourished in portions of New England up to the time of the Revolution and continued to exist for half a century more. In 1756 there were 3636 slaves, one to every thirty-five whites. In 1774 the number had been doubled, one to every twenty-nine whites. As late as 1800 there were 4330 slaves in New England. In 1774 the Connecticut "Gazetteer "carried the following advertisement : "TEN DOLLARS REWARD. Run away from the subscriber in Can- terbury, a Mulatto slave. He is a slender built fellow, has thick Lips, a curled mulatto Head of Hair uncut, and goes stooping forward." Not until 1848, when slavery had proved so unprofitable that there were but six slaves left in the State, did Connecticut pass an act of emancipation. THE NEW ENGLANDER The stranger to New England will naturally be desirous to see and study the ' typical New Englander,' for the reputation of that interesting character has gone all over the land. He will have heard sung the praises of the New Englander, his character, his conscience, and his God. But as the type, though perhaps not so rare as the Simon-pure Yankee dialect o the "Biglow Papers," may be difficult to discover and identify, a few ' pointers ' may not be amiss. The New England character has been the theme of orators and essayists. Dr. Holmes himself, High Priest of Bostonian Brahmins, ascribed it to a diet of codfish and the influence of the east wind. The same stock which the New England climate and diet has tough-, ened to make the New Englander, has in the enervating shelter of the Blue Ridge degenerated into the poor white 'cracker' of the southern mountains. Who has not heard of the New England conscience? It has been even more exploited and advertised than Cotuit oysters or Duxbury clams. It is a matter of pride, an assumption of superior moral standards, perhaps an atavistic survival of the Puritan joy of mar- tyrdom and love of 'mortifying the flesh.' Providence is the strong support of the New Englander, his Hope, his Faith, in ages past. However nefarious the scheme, it is for the special protection of Providence he prays. A capital city has been named in gratitude to this local god. New England thrift, which flourishes so prodigally in this climate, proves less thrifty when transplanted to more generous climes. It is in part a pinching of the penny in hand and in part seeing two pennies where there was but one before. "Take care of the pence," said Ben Franklin, "and the pounds will take care of themselves." New England thrift has not changed from the time of the wooden nutmeg and the sawdust ham. The New England farmer has not changed his spots although he has learned to take summer boarders and swap horses for second-hand Fords. The New Englander is an individualist; in his vigorous virility, a Radical. The first New Englanders became New Englanders because they were insurgents and couldn't get along comfortably in old England. In his pride of descent, after some generations of prosperity, the New Englander stiffens into a Conservative, devel- oping a hard, calcareous, and spiny shell, as does the crab after molting. An individualist in religion, the New Englander lias evolved Congregationalism, Unitarianism, Christian Science, the Holy Ghost and Us Society, and a host of other heterogeneous heterodoxies which once established have a tendency to develop through insti- tutionalism to 'stand-patism.' (36) THE NEW ENGLANDER 37 Matthew Arnold described the life of New England as "unfeeling," but what did he mean by that, and how could he tell? He also asserted that there was nothing picturesque in this part of America, both of which remarks give little evidence of "sweetness and light." The New Englanders have been considered, however, by other Americans and by Europeans, too, as provincial, an aspersion they are inclined to resent. New England is not to blame for all its characteristics. Some of them are a heritage. The New England breakfast of apple pie and cheese is native to Norfolk and Suffolk Counties in old England, as is also the Maine dialect pronunciation "ro-ad" and "stun" (stone). When some one remonstrated with Emerson for living in what has been called the pie-belt and following its custom, he opened his blue eyes in wonder and exclaimed, "Why, what is pie for if not to eat?" An enthusiastic Middle Western school master, writing home of his first trip to Boston, said he could feel the literary atmosphere the moment he stepped off the train at the Back Bay Station. The Bostonian would probably have noted only that the atmosphere was chill and smoky. Much of this sort of thing passes for 'liter- ary atmosphere.' Throughout the country Boston is best known for its baked beans, as is Vermont for its maple sugar or the South for its beaten biscuit. As for the accusation that the New Englander exploits a line of goods known as 'culture,' that is to confuse New England with Cambridge, Mass., or New Haven, Conn; which is again to confuse those towns with Harvard and Yale Colleges; which is again to confuse the majority of their students with a small minority. New England is a manufacturing community with a large foreign population. Cambridge and New Haven are industrial towns whose factory populace crave no more in the 'movies' than the people of any town in the Middle West. To know the New Englander of today, one must know Fall River as well as Boston, the Finnish community of Fitchburg as well as the old families of Salem, Jew as well as Gentile, politician as well as Puritan. One can't sense New England as a whole in a Back Bay drawing-room or get its local flavor from the windows of a railway train. Once a New Englander, always a New Englander. Even travel abroad or residence elsewhere may modify his austerity or stimulate his imagination but never radically alter his spirit. Though a generation transplanted, still he remains a New Englander in spirit. He sojourns in Europe, in the West, in California, in more salubrious climes, but in due time the yearning for her rock-ribbed hills and dales brings him home. New England has thousands of citizens today who, having either made or failed to make their fortunes in the West or elsewhere, have returned to dwell in their New England home village. THE LANGUAGE OF NEW ENGLAND If you study a map of New England you will see that the names of the towns, the counties, and the political divisions generally, the States only excepted, are English. The early settlers, remembering their homeland, plastered New England with the names of places from which they had emigrated. Thoreau in his "Week on the Concord" writes: "The white man comes with a list of ancient Saxon, Norman, and Celtic names and strews them up and down this river, Framingham, Sudbury, Bedford, Carlisle, Billerica, Chelmsford, and this is new Angle- land, and these are the West Saxons, whom the red men call, not Angle-ish or English, but Yengeese, and so at last they are known for Yankees." So we find the Roman castra, Colchester, Worcester, Lancaster, Gloucester, Dorchester, Manchester; the English counties, Essex, Kent, Derby, Norfolk, Suffolk, Hampshire, Berkshire, Somerset. The map of New England brings to mind grand old English cathedrals, York, Winchester, Wells, Salisbury, Peterborough; de- lightful little hamlets, Wilton, Lyme, Newport, Woodstock, Bolton. Biblical names Goshen, Canaan, Rehoboth, Bethlehem, and Lebanon are frequent. Providence and Concord remind us of Puritan thought. Winthrop and Brewster perpetuate the names of Puritan leaders. In the State of Maine one finds the most incongruous agglomera- tion of European place names. In strange proximity lie Denmark, China, Paris, Naples, and Peru. Some of the towns that sprang up later were named for English statesmen popular in America, as Walpole, Barre, Pittsfield, and Sunderland. A few town names have only local significance, Fairfield, Springfield, Middleboro. Only a few retain the Indian names, as Kittery, Ogunquit, Norridgewock, and Scituate. The names of the States show great variety of origin. Two are Indian, one is Latin, another good old English, still another probably a corruption of the Dutch, and the sixth is French or what you please. The natural features, on the other hand, the rivers, Connecticut, Merrimack, Housatonic, Kennebec; the mountains, Monadnock, Wachusett, Hoosac, Taconic; the bays, Casco, Passamaquoddy, Penobscot; the lakes, Winnepesaukee, Asquam, Waramaug, Moose- lookmeguntic, Molechunkemunk, Chaubunagoungamaug, are all the original Indian names. Old English geographic terms survive locally. On the southern coast of Massachusetts, in the region of Vineyard Sound, every channel between islands, or an island and the mainland, through which the tide rushes is called a 'hole,' Woods Hole, Robinsons Hole. On the eastern coast of Massachusetts a similar channel is called a 'gut,' as Hull Gut and Shirley Gut. Farther north, on the (38) THE LANGUAGE OF NEW ENGLAND 39 coast of Maine, the term similarly used is 'thoroughfare,' or 'reach,' as Eggemoggin Reach. The word 'gulf in the Miltonian sense, as applied to an 'aweful chasm,' a deep, rocky valley, survives on the map in Vermont, the only place where it is known today, Williamstown Gulf, Otta- quechee Gulf. The native Vermonters speak colloquially of such as a 'gulch,' but when interrogated, self-consciously correct themselves to 'gulf.' In the California of the 'forty-niners,' 'gulch' appears as a geographic term on the map, and is perpetuated in literature by Bret Harte's tale of Dead Man's Gulch. 'Branch,' as applied to a tributary of a river, is a good old English term, surviving generally in the southern States. In New England it is to be found only in parts of Vermont and Maine. Similarly, the term 'run' for a small stream that dries up in summer survives in only one locality in New England. George Herbert Palmer in writ- ing of Boxford, Mass., says: "Our largest current is the Topsfield river; in the second grade of things that flow we put our many brooks; and that which runs swiftly a part of the year, and shows a dry bed for the remainder, we fittingly call a 'run.' I do not know if the word occurs elsewhere between us and Bull Run." All the 'brooks' of America are in New England. To quote Professor Palmer again: "West of New York everything that runs is called a 'creek.' Brook, as a spoken word, is gone the most regrettable loss the English language has suffered in America. With us a creek does not run, but is a crack or inlet of the sea." The beautiful term 'intervale,' as applied to the meadowed floor of a mountain valley, is used in northern New England and particu- larly along the upper Saco river in the southern White Mountains. There it also gives its descriptive name to a specific locality famed as a summer resort. Not only have the Indian place names for the natural features generally survived in New England, but the New England Indian names of many animals and plants new to the settlers have been adopted into the English language. Some of the most characteristic are skunk, chipmunk, woodchuck, squash, cascara. Succotash, mugwump, moccasin are also Indian. Many expressions adopted by the early settlers are of similar origin, Indian file, Indian sum- mer, Indian corn, .'to bury the hatchet,' 'the happy hunting grounds.' Colloquial New England speech shows many characteristic sur- vivals of Elizabethan usage. New England not only has its char- acteristic dialectical peculiarities, but many local varieties. Some of these show traces of the dialect of those English counties from which the settlers came, which in turn can be traced back to Danish, Saxon, or Norman sources. The summer boarder, the telephone, and the schools are fast elimi- nating these local colloquialisms. The dialect of "The Biglow Papers" is now difficult to localize; yet rural research will reveal many delectable bits. The old lady who, on being asked if she were going to a village entertainment, replied, "No, I don't never go to no such places," was using the Elizabethan double negative in a way perhaps not peculiar to New England, but you are certain she meant what she said. THE NEW ENGLAND VILLAGE In strongest contrast to the rush of modern American life is the peace of the oldtime New England village. In its perfection, un- sullied by modern industrial life, it is about the most beautiful thing New England has to present. A century ago President D wight of Yale wrote: "A succession of New England villages, composed of neat houses, surrounding neat school houses and churches, adorned with gardens, meadows, and orchards, and exhibiting the universally easy circumstances of the inhabitants, is, at least in my opinion, one of the most delightful prospects which this world can afford." The New England village with unaccountable spontaneity achieves a unique charm unlike anything to be seen in other parts. They have always something in common, and yet the types are most diverse. They take form naturally from the topography, nestling in a valley, or standing placidly on a plain, or boldly on a breezy hilltop, or cuddling about the margin of a salt-water cove. The late Frederick Law Olmsted ascribed their beauty to the fact that there was "one consistent expression of character, and that character, simple, unsophisticated, respectable. What was the ancient beauty of an American village, with its bare, bleak, cheap utilitarian structures, its cramped dooryards, its meagre and com- mon ornaments, its fences and straight-lacedness? " The answer Mr. Olmsted finds in the perfect adaptation to conditions such as was exhibited by the Clipper Ship. "By far the highest and choic- est beauty," says Mr. Olmsted, "is that of inherent and compre- hensive character and qualities, and whatever of decoration hides this, or withholds attention from it, however beautiful in itself, is in itself a blemish." The earliest New England towns did not grow from villages, but began definitely as trade centers with urban intentions. Both town and village in some instances came into being at the start, the town indeed taking precedence. Salem had its Salem Village, the scene of the witchcraft, now known as the town of Danvers. Lynn had its Lynn Village, now Lynnfield. Charlestown Village is now Woburn. All these villages were some miles from the parent town, but included in the township. The name "village" was also applied to the chief center of population. In rural communities they still speak of 'going to the village.' The name survives as a permanent desig- nation in the case of Brookline Village, which originally was known as Muddy River Hamlet. The seaport towns in the early days served their immediate hinter- land. The sea was the source of wealth, and every seaport had its fisheries and a share in the West India trade. It was due to the limi- tations of land transportation that Salem, Newburyport, Ports- mouth, and Portland long remained nearly equal in population and trade; and well into the nineteenth century the three largest towns THE NEW ENGLAND VILLAGE 41 of Massachusetts were Boston, Salem, and Nantucket. The latter, remote on its island, was as urban in type as. Salem. New England villages were generally laid out on a definite plan at the time of their first settlement. The Connecticut valley type had as a distinctive feature a broad, central street. Deerfield is a surpassingly fine example of the one-street type of village. Some- times in Connecticut towns this street was so broad as to be the town common. This is true also of Lynn, where the ancient common is simply a broad, main thoroughfare with a central space of grass and trees between the two roadways. But every town had its village common or green, which in later development has become the civic center. Lexington with its ancient village green is an excellent example. The Green early became the center of community life. Here one of the first duties of the authorities was always to erect a whipping post. Later came the meeting house, the jail, and the school house, and the ordinary, or inn. Here the townsmen gathered in meeting house or town hall to discuss public matters and exercise the right to vote. Here the train band and militia were drilled, the regulation days being festive occasions drawing people together for gossip and trade. The early Colonial meeting house facing the village green was well named. It was not merely a place of worship. It was the communal meeting place, the Court of Justice, the civic center. Here at least annually met all the citizens, rich and poor, to discuss questions of town administration and to elect the numerous town officers. The town clerk in New England was a village worthy of an impor- tance not quite understood in the other States. The pound-keeper protected the townsmen's fields from stray cattle. The chimney- viewer was the primitive fire-marshal, for chimneys catching fire were likely to ignite the thatch of adjacent houses. To look after other important interests, there were fence-viewers, deer-reeves, and hog-reeves. Where the town meeting has survived in modern days, it is not unusual as the annual joke to elect to this latter office some officious citizen. The town bull, too, was not the least valued of the community's institutions. The early New England town was not a mere place of abode nor a collection of ordinances. The freemen, each with his obligation to the community, to his church, formed in truth a community with a communal sense and something of the spirit of communism. The average citizen came in contact with scarcely any portion of the government machinery outside the town and its officers. He was born to citizenship or achieved it by paying taxes. The town registered his birth, his marriage, and his death. Residence in the town and admission to the community were rigidly and jealously guarded. Dorchester in 1634 enacted that "no man within the Plantation shall sell his house or lott to any man without the Plan- tation, whome they shall dislike off." Not only did the freeman have his home lot, but the valuable right of commonage. Woodlands and pasture were owned in com- mon. Boston Common was a public cow pasture well into the nineteenth century. In Dorchester, the ancient Calf Pasture is still 42 THE NEW ENGLAND VILLAGE public land and known by its original name. The Stone Horse Pasture, Lynn Woods, jecalls where the stallions were kept apart. The New England town was neither purely a civic organization nor wholly an ecclesiastical unit. It had elements of both. The Puritans and Pilgrims came from England, not to found a democ- racy nor to establish a state where there should be freedom of wor- ship, but to establish a community which should coincide with their own religious tenets. Both the Bay Colony and Connecticut were religious hierarchies. American democracy has, however, grown from the humble begin- ning of the New England town meeting. Mr. Bryce has aptly termed the town meeting, "the school as well as source of democ- racy." He points out that the English settlers were largely towns- folk, accustomed in England to municipal life and vestry meeting. Thomas Jefferson, though he disliked New England, admired its fundamental institution and wished to see its like in Virginia. He wrote: "Townships in New England are the vital principles of their Governments and have proved themselves the widest invention ever devised by the wit of man for the perfect exercise of self-gov- ernment and for its preservation." De Tocqueville wrote in 1835: "The average state of the town- ships of New England is in general a happy one. No trace exists of a distinction of rank. The native of New England is attached to his township because it is independent and free; its affairs insure his attachment to its interest. He takes a part in every occurrence in the place. He practices the art of government in the small within his reach." In the larger towns today, the difficulty of getting all the voters together for the consideration of public business makes the system unwieldy. For this reason the elections are usually held in the several villages, made precincts for the purpose, while town business is transacted in town meeting as before. Boston remained a town until it became nearly as large as its famous and wealthy suburb of Brookline is today. The latter, though distinctly an urban com- munity, still clings with pride to its town meeting. The town system is similar throughout the northern New England States. In Connecticut the towns are even more important as politi- cal units. In the election of representatives to the legislature they all stand on a parity, a small town of a few hundred inhabitants hav- ing the same representation as the largest cities. Connecticut villages and cities are also incorporated boroughs within the townships. The city of Hartford for instance is within the Hartford township. But the community unit, the township, that gave New England democracy has never become an institution in other sections, where the county, lacking the same intimate identity between the social and political, is the unit of government. Hence the New England town meeting as a social institution remains unique, its only modern parallel the correspondingly pure democracy of the Swiss Cantons. ROADS AND HIGHWAYS The Mohawk Trail, that excellent automobile road over the Hoosacs, opened in 1915, follows the old route that the fierce Mo- hawks took on their raids from the Hudson into the Connecticut valley. All New England was covered with a network of Indian trails which had been worn by the natives in the centuries before the coming of the white men. As the earliest settlements were along the coast, communication between them was first maintained by water. As settlements multiplied, it was by the Indian trails that the pioneers made their way from one settlement to another, and it was along the Indian trails that they penetrated to the inte- rior. The most available of these in time became the Colonial Bridle Paths which eventually widened into roads. Many of our present highways and railroads today follow in gen- eral the course of the Indian trails. That explains why many of our old roads are so steep and difficult for teams and automobiles. In winter the Indian trails followed along the solid ice of rivers and ponds which furnished a convenient path. The summer trails often went over steep ridges to avoid the dense growth of the lowlands. The story of how the Colonial Bridle Paths developed from the Indian trails would make an interesting volume itself. The 'Old Connecticut Path' first became known to the English from the Indians who brought corn from the Connecticut valley to sell in Boston. John Oldham was the first to traverse it and over it trav- eled the emigrants from Boston to settle at Windsor and Wethers- field. Starting from Cambridge, it followed the Charles river to Waltham, thence it went through Weston, Hopkinton, and Grafton into 'the Wabbaquasset Country' across the Connecticut line to Woodstock, reaching the Connecticut river opposite Hartford. The 'Connecticut Trail,' first noted by Winthrop in his journal in 1648, left the Old Connecticut Path at Weston and ran through Sudbury Center, Stow, Lancaster, and Princeton, through West Brookfield, Warren, and Brimfield, to Springfield. It avoided the hills, and is in part traversed today by the Massachusetts Central. The ' Bay Path,' most famous of Colonial highways and so known since 1673, started at Watertown and from South Framingham ran through Marlboro, Lancaster, Worcester, and Brookfield, where it joined the Connecticut Trail to Springfield. From it, at Brookfield, turned off the 'Hadley Path.' The first reference to a road in New England appears in the Con- necticut Records in 1638, when it was ordered that a road be made to Windsor, which is probably the oldest in the State. In 1673 the first mail upon the continent of America was dispatched by post riders from New York to Boston by way of New Haven, Hartford, Springfield, and Worcester. In 1679 the Connecticut General Court ordered that once a year the inhabitants should clear a roadway a rod wide on the "King's Highway." In 1684 "great neglect was (43) 44 ROADS AND HIGHWAYS f owned in mayntaining of the highways between towne and towne; the wayes being incumbered with dirty slowes, bushes, trees and stones." In 1687 John Munson of New Haven was granted the monopoly for seven years of transporting persons and goods between New Haven and Hartford. This was probably the earliest regular established transportation line. Shortly after, in the more thickly settled portions, highways began to be laid out, but for a half-century this was little more than a reservation of the land for them. Wheeled vehicles, at first un- known, were hardly practicable outside the towns before 1700, though in Boston John Winthrop had a coach as early as 1685 and Governor Andros had one in 1687. A form of four-wheeled vehicle known as ' the chariot ' was gradually introduced as roads developed, but even up to the middle of the eighteenth century the inhabitants of the remoter regions of Connecticut had never seen a wheeled vehicle, and there are many records of crowds gathered in some village to see the first coach or chaise. Such things were regarded as particularly hard on the horses. One narrative relates that " the horse dragging it was fagged nearly to death." Benevolent farmers kept oxen yoked in 'mud time' to relieve teams that had mired. Taverns came early, in the eighteenth century improved, and some of them before the Revolution became famous for their hos- pitality. One of the most famous was the Black Horse Tavern at Hartford, the great coaching center with 26 lines of coaches. Tim- othy Dwight wrote a century ago: "Every innkeeper in Connecticut must be recommended by the selectmen and civil authority, con- stables and grand jurors of the town in which he resides; and then licensed at the court of common pleas. Substantially in the same manner is the business regulated in Massachusetts and New Hamp- shire. In consequence of this system, men of no small personal respectability have ever kept inns in this country." The Peases were a famous family not only in hotel management, but in transportation. John Adams wrote: "Gated and drank tea at Peases a smart house and landlord truly." Captain Levi Pease, born at Enfield in 1 740, was the most famous stage driver in his day. He started a line of stage routes from Boston to Hartford. This in turn led him to such efforts toward the improvement of roads that he has generally been called ' Father of the American Turnpike.' The New London Turnpike Company was chartered in 1800 to build and maintain a road between Hartford and New London. Other turnpikes followed rapidly. Privately owned, they proved the popular investment of the time. They were constructed gener- ally in straight lines between important centers without regard to gravity, ascending hills and crossing swamps. The invention of the Scotchman MacAdam early in the nineteenth century brought in a better type of road, eminently satisfactory until the advent of the motor car. The invention about the middle of the nineteenth century of the Blake Stone Breaker by Eli Whitney Blake of New Haven, a relative of the cotton gin inventor, did much for the cause of good macadam roads. In the ten years between 1862 and 1872 the direct labor-saving due to the five hun- dred breakers then in use was computed at over $50,000,000. ROADS AND HIGHWAYS 45 It was the bicycle, together with a growing appreciation for the open country, taking the citizens out of the narrow confines of their town to explore the countryside, which resulted in the discovery that good roads paid. The knowledge that bad roads were wasteful of energy had doubtless long been common in the horse world. But hard pedaling over sandy and rutty roads did much to make it com- prehensible to human intelligence and bring men to a willingness to pay taxes for good roads. New England has led in highway improvement and Massachusetts has shown the way. The Bay State had the first Highway Com- mission, and Governor Ames inaugurated the policy of having the State financially aid in road building. Up to 1893 all road work in New England was done in hit-or-miss fashion, as it still is in remote rural districts where the natives turn out at 'road working' to avoid paying the road taxes and have a sociable time. When Nathaniel Southgate Shaler, Professor of Geology at Har- vard, was appointed Chairman of the Massachusetts Highway Commission, in 1893, he not only kept it wholly out of politics, but gave it a standing for efficient organization and scientific improve- ment in road construction, resulting in an impetus to the good roads movement which it has never gotten over. Moreover, he established at Harvard in charge of his nephew, Walter Page, a laboratory for testing road materials from which has developed the national office of Public Roads at Washington. Since then Massachusetts has expended $8,500,000 on nine hundred miles of State Road. Waterbound macadam was all very well until the automobile came along and tore the surface to pieces. The road builders were filled with consternation, travelers with dust. The automobile has necessitated new methods of road building. Waterbound is being largely displaced by bituminous macadam. New Hampshire several years ago adopted a system of marking the new State Trunk Highways so that they might be the more .readily followed by means of uniform colored bands on telegraph poles along the road. New Hampshire has continuously developed this policy. As each State Road has been completed, its course has been marked by a new color. Some dozen colors in all are thus utilized, making quite unnecessary the usual automobile road book directions when traveling along any of these routes. It was some years before Massachusetts and Connecticut adopted a similar system. In these States a tricolor system is used. East and west trunk lines are marked by red bands on telegraph poles and fence posts, north and south routes by blue bands, and diagonal routes of secondary importance by yellow bands. This tricolor system is under consideration for adoption in Rhode Island, Vermont, and Maine, and will doubtless be put into effect as soon as appro- priations make it possible. On highways so marked no route direc- tions are needed or can be of any avail in following the course of the route. NEW ENGLAND ARCHITECTURE Not the least of the charms of the present-day New England lies in the quaint examples of Colonial architecture still to be found along its byways and in its villages, and in the later beautiful Georgian structures whose harmony of proportion and beauty of detail are the inspiration or despair of modern architects. New England architecture of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries is eminently satisfying. It fits the landscape; it seems characteristic of the time and place. Derived and adapted it may be, but its worthiest examples are not mere imitation but have a certain indigenous quality. Moreover, to the careful student a progressive development through Colonial time, an always human- ized relation to the environment, becomes apparent. The architecture of Colonial America presents two distinct types, definitely and sharply marked off from one another, though the distinction has been too generally ignored. Passing by the log cabin stage as a mere makeshift, the term ' Colonial ' may appro- priately be applied to the architecture characteristic of the earliest period in New England up to the eighteenth century. From about 1720 we find a marked change in the character of architecture in trie colonies. More settled conditions and increased wealth made possible the adoption of a new style of architecture which was developing in England. This ' Georgian ' architecture, as it is appropriately and generally called, the New Englanders adopted and adapted to their own ends. The Georgian may be interpreted as the English Renaissance. After the close of the eighteenth century, much more pretentious structures were erected in New England, but, except in so far as the Colonial tradition survived, little or nothing has since been produced in architecture that is essentially characteristic of the region. The waves of Neo- Classicism, Gothic, and Romanesque revivals that have swept over the land, though variously interpreted by men of New England birth and training, have failed to absorb or assimilate anything from their environment. If architecture is "frozen music" as has been said, it falls into as many schools as music itself. That of early New England would from this point of view be akin to folk music, rude and vigorous in its sturdy adaptation to the rough conditions of the life of the time. Georgian architecture, on the other hand, rather suggests the balanced measures and courtly grace of the days of the minuet, the polished artificiality and balance of rhythm defined in Mozart and his school. However this may be, an indigenous architecture is always the mirror of history reflecting in permanent form the conditions of life which created it. There can be no understanding of early New England architecture without a clear picture of its historic back- (46) NEW ENGLAND ARCHITECTURE 47 grounds, without comprehension of the social and economic life that called it into existence. Just as truly as the first log cabin stage was the result of the im- mediate pressing need for shelter such as could be shaped from the rude materials at hand, so the houses of the seventeenth century, built after the fields had been cleared and the more pressing needs of food and shelter had been met, were the result of traditions brought from England, modified by local necessities or conditions. A typical example of such adaptation to a local need is seen in the seaport towns, where the dwellings of the wealthy ship-owners almost invariably have glazed cupolas whence the proprietors could scan the horizon for the sails of their returning argosies. The Colonial architecture of the seventeenth century was evolved from English prototypes adapted to local conditions in the new world. It evolved characteristic forms in New England as the result of local needs and conditions. Its structures show an indigenous flavor, a stanch resourcefulness and adaptiveness with local varia- tions, the result sometimes of climatic and material differences in the north and south of New England, on the sea-coast or in the interior. There is an expression of rugged comfort about the dwell- ings. Utilitarian aims are constantly in mind in the plan and arrangement. The typical seventeenth century dwelling, while a model of utilization of space, would hardly have met with the approval of the modern tenement house inspector. The number of bedrooms would today be considered totally inadequate for the large families and numerous children. As many as three slept in one bed, often with several beds in a low-studded room. To comprehend the limitations of space in many of these seventeenth century houses we must divest them, as they stand, of their recent additions. In this rigorous climate of long winters, the fireplace became all important, the hearthstone had a significance now lost. In a common type of seventeenth century dwelling, the chimney was the core around which the house was built. It supplied not only heat and light but on its crane and in its Dutch oven the cooking was done. Around the great open fireplace the indoor activities centered. Here the family gathered, the elder in the inglenooks and choicer spots, the younger in the more remote and draughty places. Here the lads and lasses did their courting through a courting stick, a long wooden tube with mouth and ear pieces. The most obvious characteristic of New England structures is that they are of wood. Except for Russia, Scandinavia, and Japan, nowhere else does wood so dominate. General Washington coming to New England from the South, where stone and brick prevailed, marveled at the houses "being built almost entirely of wood ... as the country is full of stone, and good clay for bricks." The builders had the English half-timber tradition. The rigorous New England winters proved the necessity of protecting such poor plaster as was then made and many of the earlier houses had their clapboard casing added at a later period. The origin of the name ' clapboard ' is itself significant, for the earlier form was ' clayboard.' As lime-mortar was little used, clay mixed with straw was the sub- 48 NEW ENGLAND ARCHITECTURE stitute and the 'clay-boards' were placed over this to prevent weathering. This was equally true hi America and England. We find the first cargo from Plymouth was of split-pine clapboards. The " Fortune," a small ship of fifty-five tons, arriving from England in November, 1621, was "speedily dispatcht away, being laden with good clapboard as full as she could stowe, and 2 hogsheads of beaver and other skins." As the quality of plaster has improved in England the necessity for clapboards has decreased. Still the clapboard tradition has been so firmly established in New England that frequently brick walls are still so encased. The earliest meeting houses in New England were crude, cabin- like affairs. The earliest extant, the old Ship Church of Hing- ham, 1680, so called because its timbers were framed by ship car- penters, is typical and characteristic of the best of the early houses of worship. Its square form gives maximum of spaciousness at minimum expense of wall surface. The outlines with the truncated hipped roof are of severe plainness without the slightest architectural pretension. It is the only house for public or religious purposes of the early Colonial period in New England that has survived. The Georgian architecture of old England was of course carried out in stone. Transplanted to New England the local tradition of clapboard or wood casing was followed. The change of material necessarily resulted in a repression of many architectural adornments and a concentration of ornament about the entrance doorway and the windows with an elaboration of ornamental detail in the interiors. In its first phases in New England up to the middle of the eighteenth century the Georgian architecture is characterized by rather heavy proportions, and by segmental curved pediments above the door- ways. The old Dummer House at Byfield, 1715, the Warner House in Portsmouth, 1723, and the Royall House at Medford, 1728, are excellent examples of this first stage of the development of the Georgian in New England. Belonging to this period too is the old Boston State House, 1728, a structure excellent in its propor- tions and pleasing in its poise, whose stepped gables are perhaps suggestive of the old Guild Houses of Holland. It has shared in the happy tendency of recent years to scrape the paint off old Boston and the pleasing tones of the dull hued old red brick add not a little to its elderly charm. Faneuil Hall, 1 741 , designed by John Smibert, displays the Georgian architecture in its more fully developed characteristics. Less appreciated architecturally because of the difficulties the observer has in seeing it, surrounded as it is by market stalls, it is further marred by successive dirty coats of paint. Its restoration is now being agitated, a fearsome thing under Mayor Curley's administra- tion. The Newport State House, 1743, designed by Richard Mundy, and Market House, 1762, of Peter Harrison are other notable examples of this period. Inigo Jones, the first to introduce the mode of formal classicism, had spent much time in Italy and had been employed to design a villa at Vicenza, where he came under the influence of Palladio. About the middle of the century Palladian influence became more pronounced. Exterior curves gave way to straight lines, the pro- NEW ENGLAND ARCHITECTURE 49 portions more harmonious, the whole showing greater poise. The old Lee house, 1768, at Marblehead, illustrates this phase. Under Sir Christopher Wren, who during the period of his edu- cation had traveled extensively on the Continent, the rich heritage of the Renaissance transmitted through Palladio blossomed into new adaptations of graceful proportions and beauty of detail. This development of Georgian architecture is characterized by a balanced formality of symmetry with refinement of classic detail. It is not the cold and adamant formality of the later classic revival, but is a living and local adaptation of classic forms breathing the true spirit of the Renaissance. It is the architecture of a society of increased wealth and culture reflecting improved economic conditions and the development of social life and amenities. It evidences a new order of society, an era of peace and prosperity. About the time of the Revolution the influence of the Brothers Adam, best known for their influence on the furniture of the era, penetrated to New England, strongly influencing the architects of the time. Charles Bulfinch of Boston and Samuel Mclntire of Salem both elaborated the Adam tradition. The latter by attenuation of pillars and pilasters gave a new grace to the classic. Bulfinch, generally re- garded as one of the most probable fathers of American architecture, has more indelibly left his stamp upon the architecture of New Eng- land than any one other. A graduate of Harvard, he traveled extensively in Europe, studying architecture. His most notable creation is, of course, the State House, 1795, on Beacon Hill, which in all its lines and features marks the transition from the Adamesque Georgian to the classic revival. Despite the massive wings which it has grown of late, despite successive coats of paint which conceal the harmonious colors of the red brick beneath, making all al- lowance for its superb position, the Bulfinch State House is still a structure of dignity, of poise and beauty. University Hall at Harvard is another of his creations, which in spite of severity of line accents the horrors of its later nineteenth century neighbors, and casts doubt upon the authenticity of its twentieth century parvenus. The period following the close of the Revolution on the whole marks a decline in taste. The loyalists, who had been in large part the people of wealth and refinement, were discredited or driven out, and the wealth and power in many cases was in the hands of persons who in the turmoil had come up rapidly from a lower social status. These nouveaux-riches, who owed their advancement to their radical and Revolutionary enthusiasms, built with less dis- criminating taste. The Georgian tradition, however, had become deeply ingrained and was perpetuated by the carpenter builders of New England well into the nineteenth century. In the dwellings and meeting houses constructed by these artificers, for the most part nameless, they showed in many cases a rare degree of taste and adaptability. Among them Isaac Damon of Northampton, some of whose churches still stand at Hartford, may well be designated "architect." To Russell Warren is due the architectural distinction of many of the residential mansions built by the wealthy residents and ship- owners of Rhode Island, especially of Bristol. A distinctive feature SO NEW ENGLAND ARCHITECTURE of his work is the well-proportioned cornice or parapet rail and the artistic devices lavished on the decorations of the doorways. "Here in a charming geometric group, pilasters, fan-light, panels, and hood, with all their chaste embellishment, form a focal centre." Asher Benjamin of Greenfield published in 1796 a compilation of designs and drawings, "The Country Builders' Society," which like the pattern books of Sheraton and Adam in furniture, exerted a wide influence on the carpenter builders of the tune. The classic revival, largely an influence direct from France, led to porticoes and pediments, stiff and wooden, obsequiously placed in front of buildings or court houses without any feeling or adaptation. The classicism of the revival adopted forms without meaning. It reproduced however incongruously, without regard to relations. Doric porticoes and colonnades of Corinthian columns were attached to public buildings because the appropriation permitted, or on the fronts of dwellings because the owner had the price. The early Gothic revival which followed the neo-classicism of the first part of the nineteenth century produced only horrors. H. H. Richardson with his transplantation of the Romanesque forms of western France produced buildings perhaps overmuch admired in his time but which cannot be denied a certain satisfying quality however exotic. Trinity Church in Copley Square is his chef d'ceuvre, but his prolificness is attested by Romanesque churches, libraries, and railway stations throughout New England. Richard- son's work though so clearly an adaptation displays genuine indi- viduality and came near to establishing a school. Since his day New England has witnessed adaptations and repro- ductions of almost every possible kind of architecture, exhibiting varying degrees of success and failure. In the period following the Civil War, the French Renaissance as interpreted by Government architects and imitated by their fellows ran riot in granite and cast iron fronts. In the '7o's and '8o's, Boston had an epidemic of Saracenic architecture. About Copley Square, the Old South Church, the Hotel Victoria, the curiously domed skyline of lower Huntington Avenue assumed form when Mohammedan influence prevailed. The greater architectural efforts in New England during the twentieth century have followed more or less completely either the Roman or the Gothic tradition. In the former mode, Guy Lowell has in the Boston Museum of Fine Arts and similar buildings achieved distinction. But the Gothic has attained an even greater success. Its chief exponent is Ralph Adams Cram, whose ardor has made of the Gothic a propaganda and whose genius has produced structures of beauty with something of the spirit of the times from which they are adapted. R. Clipston Sturgis in his notable Gothic Group for the new Perkins Institution at Watertown has shown the same facility in the reproduction of Gothic forms that he has in the classic. Worthy as have been the efforts of recent generations, New Eng- land architecture still connotes the Colonial and the Georgian. THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND All New England was divided into four parts in the time of the Revolution. To the original four colonies, Vermont, the four- teenth, and Maine, the twenty-third State, have since been added. New England is an entity, a natural physiographic region, and the interests of its people are one, but it still remains divided into six parts. There is little cooperation between the states and there is lacking a feeling of unity among the people. "Wake up, New England," "Get Together, New England," and "Boom New Eng- land" are slogans which have been sounded without very much permanent result. The traditions, local prejudices, the prosperity and the let-well- enough-alone spirit offer large obstacles to the development of any unity of action. No actual consolidation, of course, is possible or has ever been projected. The pride of the people in their home states, the entrenchment of privilege, and the fact that local leaders and local politicians would thereby lose control of their bailiwicks make such a plan unthinkable in this plutocratic democracy. MAINE The State of Maine stands at the very top. Nothing east of the Mississippi reaches nearly so far north. The 'Man from Missouri' usually thinks of Maine as a knob on the New England corner of the map, sticking up into Canada. If you come from Massachusetts, they are likely to tell you up in Maine that "you can put the whole Commonwealth of Massachusetts down in the north woods so that even a Maine guide couldn't find it." This seems rather a reflection on the Maine guides. It is, however, a matter of sober statistics. Maine has an area equal to the five other New England States com- bined with a total population about that of Suffolk County, Mass. Its size, however, is less than that of any State in the Union outside New England, excepting only Delaware, Maryland, New Jersey, and West Virginia. The Maine coast on the map is as ragged as a frayed and tattered garment, but for the yachtsman it is a paradise, unrivaled in beauty. Though only 278 miles by aeroplane from Kittery Point to Quoddy Head, its coast line of 2400 miles is almost as long as all the rest of the east coast. There are almost countless islands. Some Maine man has said that there are 13,000; whether he dropped or added a cipher, or counted the pebbles, doesn't much matter. Maine has 1800 lakes and 5000 streams, more than all the other forty-seven States in the Union. One tenth of the total area is covered with water. No wonder the State goes dry by a small majority. Equidistant between the equator and the poles, there is nothing equable about the climate. The Penobscot is frozen 145 days in the year, and they take advantage of its condition to saw it up in chunks and consign it to warmer places. (sD 52 THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND The Maine winters were formerly considered a liability, but the commercial optimism of the Mainiacs is endeavoring to realize on them as an asset. A Maine man reminds us that the winter before the war broke out, Switzerland, only half as large as Maine, had half a million tourists within her boundaries, and that, though the Maine hills are not so high, there are more of them. As there is no question about the snow, the "Down Easters" are out for the winter business. St. Moritz, they say, got its fame through advertising, and they propose to have some of that same commodity by the same popular method. The first attempts to settle New England were made in Maine. DeMonts in 1604, Weymouth the following year, and several others after one sample of the Maine winter became discouraged and went back home. When Captain John Smith came cruising along the coast in 1608 he found almost as many inhabitants on Monhegan as there are now. He saw them sitting on the rocks, catching cun- ners and rock cod, just as they do today.- But the inhabitants then, as now, found it one of the best countries in the world to depart from, and none of these settlements proved permanent. One trouble was that both the French King and the English King laid claim to the land, neither bothering to recognize the red men. As soon as the French or English started to build nice com- fortable little cottages, the others would come and rout them out. Some descendants of the first French who settled there still live on Mount Desert, but now they don't even know how to pronounce their names. The Des Isles call themselves the "De Sizzles." Even the fashionable summer residents today pronounce the island's name as suggesting an after-dinner confection instead of Champlain's first impression of its barrenness. Thirteen years before the "Mayflower" discovered Plymouth Rock, a little colony began housekeeping at the mouth of the Saga- dahoc, and here they launched the "Virginia," the first American- built ship. And a very proper little craft she was, especially when it came to driving out the French. This was the beginning of the Maine shipbuilding industry, which still continues. The 'District of Maine' was long held in a tributary state by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts, yielding the latter a net revenue of millions of dollars. In 1820 Maine finally achieved her independence, and was admitted to the Union as the twenty-third State. Excepting only Michigan, Florida, and West Virginia, this was the last new State east of the Mississippi. Maine is the bonanza farming state, it appears from a modest little pamphlet issued by Commissioner Guptill of the State Depart- ment of Agriculture. This is chuck full of the most interesting in- formation, unbelievable though true. Here one reads that Maine exceeds all other States in acreage production of corn, oats, and potatoes. The Maine farmer gets an average of 46 bushels of corn to the acre, while the next best that can be done is in Michigan with 36 bushels, and the average of the whole country is only 25.8. In the matter of oats Maine has put it all over the other States. Here, 141,000 acres devoted to this crop yielded an average of 41 bushels, while the average for the whole country was only 29.7. Michigan THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND 53 again came second with 33.5. The average potato crop of the whole State is 260 bushels, for the whole country it is only 109.5. Maine stands first, Mr. Guptill further tells us, in the number of apple trees in proportion to the amount of land in improved farms. One of Maine's most valuable crops grows without the slightest cultivation or attention. Its blueberries are sold in baskets or in tin cans. Maine is just beginning to discover her possibilities. In 1899 only six and a half million bushels of potatoes were raised; ten years later twenty-nine million bushels. Maine people say that whereas they now raise only a paltry thirty million they might raise three hundred million bushels. Maine raises other things, hotel prices, statesmen, and boosters. The boosters have a tendency to raise still other things when they get away from their home State, and Maine statesmen are usually inclined to raise the tariff. Dingley 'got away with it' and made himself famous. Even the boys and girls in Maine have taken to raising things. Last year there were 250 boys enrolled in 30 Potato Clubs. The seventeen-year-old boy of Aroostook County who won the Potato Club sweepstakes in 1915 raised potatoes at the rate of 459 bushels to the acre, at a cost of 17 cents a bushel. The winner of the prize for raising potatoes at lowest cost turned in accounts showing a net of 15^ cents a bushel. This combination of genius on the part of the youth to lower costs, and on the part of the grown-ups to boost prices, promises great things if Federal investigation can be staved off. As a matter of fact, Uncle Sam got after the Potato Trust in this region last winter and may have jarred them a little. There are Girls' Garden Clubs as well. If the winner of the contest this past year, Miss Chrystal Waddell, aged twelve, raised beets as is alleged, at the rate of $659.60 an acre, what will she do when she grows up? Maine exports hay, potatoes, lime, lobsters, and native-born inhabitants. The United States Census tells us over 200,000 Maine- born live in other States. Something like 30,000 of the sons and daughters of Maine have gone to the Pacific Coast. No other State in the Union has contributed so many worthy citizens to other localities. This is evidence of their enterprise and desire to better conditions in other parts rather than of any dissatisfaction with their own State. Every one who ever had any connection with Maine is inordi- nately proud of it, especially if it happens to be through birth. Although the natives of the Pine Tree State move away, they never cease to boast of their origin, and come back when they have made their pile elsewhere, to be buried in the little old family graveyard or to remodel the old farmhouse or build a palatial seaside residence. NEW HAMPSHIRE Where is New Hampshire? Every schoolboy knows, and yet the question is now before the Supreme Court of the United States for decision. For more than a century the dispute has gone on between New Hampshire and Vermont as to where one State ends and the 54 THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND other begins, whether the thread of the river is the boundary or the west bank, and what part of that bank. A few years ago a workman on a bridge at Bellows Falls fell to the rocks below and was killed. The personal liability laws of Vermont and New Hampshire were so different that while the law- yers of one side maintained that he fell in Vermont, those on the other insisted that he fell in New Hampshire. This revived dormant controversy, and, after vain attempts of a commission to settle the question, Vermont is now suing New Hampshire before the Supreme Court of the United States. Millions hang upon the decision, for below Bellows Falls between high and low water, on the west side, the International Paper Com- pany has built great mills to utilize the waterpower. Both New Hampshire and Vermont have laid claim to the taxes, so meanwhile the Company has deposited a sum in a bank at Bellows Falls to be held in escrow. The rival claims date from the eighteenth century. "The West- minster War" of 1775 was due to the New Hampshire Government sending an armed force across the river to protect the New Hampshire grantees. Vermont, an independent republic until 1791, claimed territory to the thread of the river and at times parts of what is now New Hampshire. But in 1782 its legislature accepted the west bank of the river as the eastern boundary. Then the question arose, Where is the west bank line, at low water, at high water, or at the top of the bank? If the Supreme Court calendar is not too crowded, we shall in a few years know where Vermont begins and New Hampshire ends. New Hampshire is known as the 'Granite State,' though the three bordering States quarry and manufacture a far greater amount of that commodity. The rivers and streams are the most indus- trious things of the State, turning thousands of wheels and millions of spindles and providing a bare existence for hordes of Poles, Rus- sians, Italians, Syrians, Greeks, and other operatives. One of the State's first efforts in the production of statesmen resulted in Daniel Webster, but she continues to produce them in ever increasing num- bers and ever diminishing sizes. Concord is the capital, though in the days of Jethro Bass much of the State's business was done at Croydon and later the Boston & Maine R.R. saved the legislature all cerebral activity by attending to that in its Boston offices. For several decades the railroad owned and managed the State, but because of extravagant and careless methods finally lost its hold. How extravagant, was shown in a recent legislative inquiry in an item for $35,000 paid an attorney for a "conversation," which somebody figured out was at the rate of $70 a word, a pretty high rate, though Colonel Harvey is said to have once paid the Pope $8 a word for an article for the "North American Review." The White Mountains are prominent a little north of the center of the State. Now that they have been skinned of their timber, they have been unloaded upon the Government by thrifty citizens for a 'Forest Reserve.' The Appalachian Mountain Club has THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND 55 built gently graded paths all through the mountains, so that inva- lids and old ladies can scale the most precipitous and inaccessible peaks. The State has twenty-five peaks over 2500 feet high, and some of its hotel prices are even higher, but, in order to neglect none, it also has summer resorts at a dollar a day. The 'Old Man of the Mountains' gave its name to the Profile Notch and gave inspiration to an enthusiastic New Hampshirite to write, "Way up in New Hampshire God hung a gigantic stone man high on a mountain side, to indicate that there He makes men." If this is true, this is the earliest case of hanging on record. New Hampshire was early a pioneer in the summer resort business and today shows a larger turnover on the capital invested than any other State. 400,000 summer visitors yield her an annual income of $50,000,000, her most prosperous industry. The State is some- times advertised as 'The Switzerland of America' because of its Presidential Range of mountains. Some recent booster speaks of the State as the "green pharmacy of nature, a resting-place for the million, as well as for the millionaire." There is something about the New Hampshire hills that produces a great number of highly suc- cessful farmers who, however, migrate in the winter to eke out an existence in Boston or New York, running railroads or banks, or manipulating the stock market. VERMONT Vermont and Texas are two States that have something in common. Both were independent countries at one time, with a more or less reputable form of government. Vermont had a hard time breaking into the Union. Congress twice refused its appeal for admission, though the Green Mountain Boys had rendered valiant service at Bennington and in the capture of Ticonderoga and at Crown Point. In fact the first severe blow dealt the British forces was at Benning- ton. This victory led to Burgoyne's surrender and established the reputation of the Continental troops so that France recognized our independence. Vermont had a hard time of it in those years. The territory that is now Vermont was claimed by both Massachusetts and New York, and later, when New Hampshire was set off from Massachu- setts as a separate royal province, New Hampshire made even more vehement claims of sovereignty. Governor Benning Wentworth, in his large-handed way, granted to prospective land exploiters a good part of Vermont, always, of course, reserving a portion of each grant for himself. It was not until 1791, after paying New York $30,000 blackmail in liquidation of all her claims, that Vermont finally broke into the Union as the fourteenth State. The Green Mountain Boys were Connecticut Yankees transplanted. Vermont might well be considered the offspring of a single Connecti- cut county, for Ethan Allen and a good part of his 'boys' were natives of Litchfield county. When a government was established in 1777, it was natural that the State should take the name of 'New Connecticut,' but a year later some poetically minded man wished upon the State a Latin name, the only one in the Union, all the other States having good Indian, Mexican, or English names. 56 THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND The map of Vermont is thickly spotted with the names of Con- necticut towns without even an apologetic 'New.' When Massachu- setts men transplanted the names of their native towns to New Hamp- shire, they had the modesty to at least prefix a 'New' to 'Boston ' or 'Ipswich.' The first Governor and forty-five of her Governors in all have been natives of Connecticut. Twenty-one of her Supreme Court judges and eleven of her United States Senators were born on Connecticut soil. Vermont is a wedge-shaped State with its narrower end toward the south. This may be due to its having to push so hard to get into the Union. On its northern boundary is Lake Memphremagog, with a name so long that it has to lap over into Canada. Vermont makes four fifths of the maple sugar in New England, and quite as large a proportion of its tombstones. The sap is boiled every Spring in the upper Deerfield valley and in almost every other part of the State. The tombstones hold down perpetually the deceased throughout the whole U.S.A. A good part of Vermont's mountain ridges are of solid marble, which can be cut into memorial tablets as death creates a demand. Vermont originated the Morgan mare and a large crop of Middle Western statesmen. All of her native sons who moved to the Middle West early enough seem to have become millionaires, rail- road magnates, or at least United States Senators. Vermont is pre-eminently a dairy state. Taking the area and population into account, no other State in the Union is in the same class with it. Of the 202 creameries in New England, 107 are in Vermont. Even such distinguished citizens as Theodore Vail, who only play at farming, maintain a dairy to uphold their reputation in the State. Vermont is public-spirited. Its people have pride of place. Con- sidering its wealth and sparse population, its roads are perhaps the best in the Union. It was the first State to have an educational survey, and the committee in charge wisely turned it over to the Carnegie Foundation, thus getting a thorough job instead of political jobbery. For 113 years Walton's Annual Directory and Register of Vermont has been published. This brings together information vital to all Vermonters and has served to give unity to the interests and sym- pathy of the people. In all that century the great and wealthy Commonwealth of Massachusetts has not yet learned to do the same. Vermonters are conservative as well as progressive. Once con- verted to an idea, they stick to it. When the Republican Party was born, it appealed to the voters, and since then the State has gone Republican 'hell bent for election.' Only once, when the still-born Progressive Party came forth, did they show even a doubt. In 1852 Vermont went prohibition and for exactly half a century remained dry. Even today most of the rural communities are dry enough, though public opinion is sometimes nicely balanced. The little town of Glastonbury, for instance, with twenty-nine inhabitants, at the last election voted on the license question, yes, 2; no, 3. Some years ago a master at Vermont Academy who loved the THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND 57 mountains and the outdoors undertook to impart something of his own enthusiasm for these things to the boys under him. It was not long before he had them taking twenty-mile hikes across country, in their week-end vacations traveling halfway across the State to climb some new peak. Out of this grew the Green Mountain Club, which has in the past few years awakened enthusiasm for pedestrian- ism, inspired hundreds of pairs of unused legs to activity, stimulated the pride of the whole State, and built some 150 miles or more of mountain trail almost through the length of the state. The man was James P. Taylor. The Green Mountain Club did not half absorb his energies. He created the Greater Vermont Association, the scope of which is as wide as the State. Its great result has been to awaken pride in the State and to stimulate every man, woman, and child Vermonter to work for the common weal. And it has done it. Vermont may well be proud of having the only organization of this kind in New England. MASSACHUSETTS "God save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts," proclaims the Secretary of State upon every official occasion. Of course it isn't his business to express any such wish for neighboring States or for the whole country, so he doesn't do it. The careful historian would doubtless tell one that this is only a relic of Puritan times, wholly meaningless today. Yet ministers have been known in reading Thanksgiving Day proclamations to give a somewhat sinister and significant turn to those words by undue accent when God had not in his infinite wisdom seen fit to save the State from an unworthy Governor. But this self-centered attitude is perhaps characteristic of all Massachusettians. Massachusetts is first in so many things that a list of them all would seem like a reflection on the rest of the country. The achieve- ments of the old Bay State are so great and varied that there is some reason for the self-satisfaction which makes her rather care- less of rivalry and complacent as to the security of her leadership. Massachusetts leads in culture with a capital C, not the German variety with a K. She mothers more schools and colleges of national repute than any other State. Not that she has so many colleges. Any little State in the Middle West can show a score to her one. But then Harvard is in Massachusetts. The State spends twenty millions a year on its public schools and in spite of the large and recent foreign influx has only a little over five per cent of illiteracy. But what its knowing ones know makes quite unimportant what its ignoramuses don't know. Massachusetts is the home of about three and a half million people, the great majority of whom are very busy making things for the other hundred million or so of the country. It probably does more in proportion to its size and says less about it than any other State in the Union and yet it is the best advertised of all. It 'got on the job ' early, and has kept at it ever since. Even the people in Okla- homa and Oregon cannot long remain unconscious of the spotlight which rests upon the Bay State. 58 THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND Massachusetts has the most interesting history. It was early appropriated by the Puritan and Pilgrim emigrants who came here to set themselves apart from other men who were not so good and so pious as they were. They tried hard to keep out all wicked inter- lopers. They drove out the Antinomians and the Baptists, they lashed the invading Quakers, men and women, especially the latter, at the cart's tail from town to town, and drove them in dead of winter into the wilderness. All in all, the State has done queerer things than can be put in books, but it never burned any witches, and if you dare to suggest it to any Massachusetts man, he will rise up in wrath. They hanged them. Brooks Adams in his "Emancipation of Massachusetts" remarks: "Massachusetts was a petty state, too feeble for independence, yet ruled by an autocratic priesthood whose power rested upon legislation antagonistic to English law." The State finally broke away from the control of the hierarchy of minis- ters who "had grown arrogant from long impunity." Massachusetts was the chief trouble maker for King George III, "stuffy old drone from the German hive." At that time, Massa- chusetts had the two only citizens on whose heads George III thought it worth while to put a price. But John Hancock and Samuel Adams were cautious and crafty enough to save the King from spending his money so foolishly. Massachusetts once seethed with Revolutionary movements. It had the habit, like a South American Republic. Shays' Rebellion followed close upon the heels of the war with Britain. The aboli- tion movement started here. Massachusetts gave birth to Foreign Mission Societies, to the Societies for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals and to Children. The Pilgrim Fathers have been suffi- ciently exploited. Of the Pilgrim Mothers little has been said, while other mothers are more famous. Here was the mother of all Women's Clubs; here is the Mother Church of the Christian Scientists. Mas- sachusetts might be called the grandmother of Mormonism for Joseph Smith's father and his ancestors lived at Georgetown, Mass., before he moved westward. Massachusetts is the original oriental font of American religions. Here started not only the Simon-pure brand of Unitarianism, but also the now widely spread and happiness-securing brand of Chris- tian Science. New Thought, Esoteric Buddhism, the Emmanuel Movement, all originated in the Bay State. One of the chief products of Massachusetts is statesmen. They grow wild in every village, but are easily cultivated and transplanted. Sent to Washington they have always breathed the odor of sanctity and protection. Daniel Webster, though born in New Hampshire, hailed from Boston and drank brandy out of a three-cornered cup- board in Marshfield. In one of his perfervid orations on his native State he exclaimed, -"Massachusetts, there she stands!" And still she stands pat in most things in spite of George Fred Williams, Charles Sumner Bird, and other insurgents. Later statesmen have carried on the glorious traditions, and Senator Henry Cabot Lodge, the Tsar of Nahant, that promontory haunted by the well-attested sea-serpent which any one who has taken enough cordial can see any summer day, has been for years Senior THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND 59 Senator and Chairman of Foreign Relations. During recent years he has shared his arduous labors with other millionaires, Senator Crane from the Berkshires, who makes the paper for the govern- ment's money and Senator Weeks of Hornb lower & Weeks, the Boston brokerage firm. His place is coveted by 'Honey Fitz,' the Anti-Good-Government-Association Mayor of Boston, who is ready to carry on the traditions of the millions. Boston is the Athens of America, the Hub of the Universe, and the greatest Irish city in the world. Some of the neighboring mill towns like Lawrence, Lowell, and Fall River ought to have U.S. consuls appointed to them. Taken in all, Massachusetts is the greatest and most famous State in the Union, and the self-praise which 'goes a great ways' has been genuinely echoed wherever the fame of the State has gone. RHODE ISLAND Rhode Island is a small body of water almost surrounded by land, and a large part of its land is entirely surrounded by water. The State is smaller and has a longer shore line, excepting Maine, than any other State in the Union. It has, moreover, the longest official name, which if placed on the map would stretch across the Atlantic. The "State of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations" is still the official title. "But where," asks the inquirer after truth, "are the Providence Plantations?" They exist in the preamble of the Constitution and in certain legal forms only. Evidently a real estate exploitation which never materialized was here forecasted. Some of its territory seems to have drifted far away, for Block Island, sixty miles to the southwest, is a portion of the county of Newport. Fisher's Island, on the other hand, though only three miles from the Rhode Island mainland, is a part of New York State. It's a wonder the Rhode Islanders did not swap with the Dutch, but the latter always were cautious. Rhode Island is about the size of a small Western ranch, with an extreme length of forty-seven and a half miles. It is the most densely populated State in the Union, with 508 to the square mile. Yet one fourth of the State is woodland, and five sixths of it has a population of less than fifty to the square mile. Ninety per cent of the population is concentrated in one sixth of its area. In the decade from 1899 to 1909, Rhode Island had a greater increase (26.6%) than any other eastern State except New Jersey. Narragansett Bay is the chief asset of the State, making possible both Providence and Newport. Verazzano, its first European ex- plorer, who chanced here in 1520, stayed for some time in the Bay in friendly converse with the Indians and waxed enthusiastic over the region and its "five small islands of great fertility and beauty covered with lofty trees." In place of the "lofty trees" we now have bare rocks, but the beauty of color and water has not departed. Rhode Island has always been different. It was founded by the people driven out of the Bay Colony, and grew through an influx of Baptists, Quakers, Jews, and others who were not tolerated in the neighboring regions. "The smallest of the New England colo- 60 THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND nies had features all its own," wrote Francis Parkman, "the rest were substantially one in nature and origin." James Bryce says, "Of all the American states, Rhode Island is that one which best deserves the study of the philosophic historian." She ought to have her historic novelist, too, for there is much neglected material for romance. The "triangular trade" in molasses, rum, and niggers, the eighteenth-century feudal life of her lords in velvet coats on their great plantations cultivated by slave labor, the romance of her naval heroes, are all worthy themes unsung. Eighteenth-cen- tury life in Rhode Island, especially in "South County," had much in common with Virginia. The climate and soil, the flora, wild rhododendrons and holly, the great plantations, must have floated up from the southern commonwealth in some unrecorded era. Rhode Island's Colonial assembly declared its independence of Great Britain on May 4, 1776, two months prior to the famous Act in Philadelphia. Rhode Island fired the first gun against the domin- ion of the British Crown; the first blood of the war of the Revolu- tion was spilled in Narragansett Bay. Four years before Boston's 'Tea Party,' six years before the Battle of Lexington, the men of Newport sank his Royal Majesty's armed sloop "Liberty," and in 1772 they burned H. M. S. "Gaspee." Rhode Island was the first State to create a navy of her own. Its command was turned over to Abraham Whipple, who fired the first cannon in the Revolution, June 15, 1775, and captured the first prize, the tender of the British frigate "Rose" then off Newport. The State, elated by its success, was the first to urge upon Congress the establishment of a Continental navy, and Congress designated Rhode Island to execute the plans. The commander-in-chief and three fourths of all the officers were Rhode Islanders. The State has given us two of our foremost naval heroes, the brothers Oliver Hazard Perry, the victor of Lake Erie, and Matthew Galbraith Perry, who opened up Japan. Rhode Island was founded as a "lively experiment" in the science of government, the first democracy based on religious freedom, and absolute separation of church and state. This was too fast a pace to keep up, and for the last century or so the State has been of the most conservative tendencies. The citizens of Rhode Island enjoy a limited suffrage, but it has been their custom to depute minor political affairs to the blind boss Brayton, and its national affairs have been generally managed by its senior senator. With such training it is no wonder that the late Senator Aldrich finally became the General Manager of the U.S.A. If Rhode Island is not soon relieved of its stigma of reaction, it will not be the fault of the present "Governor of Rhode Island and Providence Plantations." Largely to his credit is the recent record for liberal legislation of this wealthy little Commonwealth. There have been placed upon the statute books a parole law, a juvenile court law, a stronger employers' liability law, and more recently Governor Beeckman has recommended the eliminatiQn of the prop- erty qualification for suffrage. THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND 6 1 CONNECTICUT Connecticut extends along the Sound for a hundred miles on the turnpike between the great 'Commonwealth' and the 'Empire State.' The State is in contact with Rhode Island for forty-five miles and with New York for seventy-two. Within these modest limits lies the land of the Connecticut Yankee, thrifty, inventive, with a keen eye for the main chance, a peddler now as always. Before the Revolution the Connecticut peddler sold his goods from Quebec to Mobile. Today not a country in the world escapes. The etymology of Connecticut is interesting. The legend runs that it is derived from 'connect' and 'ticket,' perennial topics of conversation with its citizens, especially those in the southwestern part of the State who use Connecticut as a bedroom and live in New York. The usual assumption that the State is named from the river seems rather paradoxical, for the river 'connects' nothing, though it certainly does 'cut' the State in half. 'The Land of Steady Habits' takes its sobriquet, the 'Nutmeg State,' complacently, knowing that without the thrift and inventive genius which gave us the wooden nutmeg and the sawdust ham, the Connecticut Yankee could never have produced the innumerable manufactures that now carry the name of Connecticut to every country on the face of the globe. The Connecticut Yankee's mind is inventive. To him we owe vulcanized rubber, the cotton gin, the Colt revolver, and innumer- able other things handy in a civilization like ours. Connecticut holds the first place for the number of patents issued in comparison with the total population. In recent years there has been issued annually one patent to every thousand inhabitants. In 1912, 4251 manufacturing establishments with 233,871 workers produced from $257,000,000 worth of raw material manufactured products worth $490,000,000. Connecticut produces half the brass of the country, two thirds of the clocks, corsets, firearms, and plated ware. The State is a hive of industries, and since the war boom, of muni- tions factories. Bridgeport now prides itself on being the American Essen. Hartford is the capital of the State and of the insurance world. Every fire alarm is heard in Hartford, and whenever a wealthy man dies, Hartford weeps. The nineteen fire and life insur- ance companies have total assets of about $500,000,000. In 1614 Adriaen Block in his i6-ton yacht the "Restless," which he had built at New Amsterdam, cruised along the Connecticut shore, poking into every nook and cove, and sailed up the "Quaneh- ta-cut" river as far as Enfield, where he found a village of the Se- quins. Continuing around Cape Cod, he met another Dutch ship bound for Holland, left his yacht, took passage home on her and organized a company to exploit the Connecticut region. For eighteen years this company monopolized the Connecticut river trade until a talkative Dutch skipper in Plymouth harbor shortsightedly told the Pilgrims of the soft snap. It was no time at all before the Pilgrims sent one of their number to spy out the land, and that doughty adventurer John Oldham came along soon after. The same year that Harvard College was founded (but 62 THE STATES OF NEW ENGLAND probably not for that reason) there was a great exodus of Cambridge people to the valley. The Dutch failed to appreciate their new neighbors, and Knickerbocker's History describes them as "a squat- ting, bundling, guessing, questioning, swapping, pumpkin-eating, molasses-daubing, shingle-splitting, cider-watering, horse-jockeying, notion-peddling crew." Although pre-eminently a manufacturing State, Connecticut today produces 4,000,000 bushels of oysters, and $6,000,000 worth of to- bacco, an average yield of over $300 to the acre. Before the Revo- lution an agricultural state, the produce of her soil was exported to West Indian markets in her own bottoms. Every little town along the coast and up the Connecticut as far as Windsor not only had a foreign trade, but a shipbuilding industry. The War of 1812 killed its trade, and with the decline of agriculture the population came to a standstill. But with the growth of factory industries, about 1850, immigration began, and today the State is largely populated by Italians, Greeks, Russians, and the nondescript hordes of south- eastern Europe. Poultney Bigelow's " In Darkest Connecticut" says : "The Americans have disappeared like the red men. The overwhelm- ing majority of those we saw by the roadside here were Italians." Before the days of the railway, live stock which provided its own transportation on the hoof was an important export. Great herds of mules were raised and driven south to the Virginia markets. John Randolph, seeing a drove of mules passing through Washing- ton, remarked genially to Congressman Tracy of Connecticut, "Tracy, there go a lot of your constituents." "Y-es," said Tracy. "Goin' down to Virginia to teach school." Not only did Connecticut supply school masters and school mis- tresses who went all over the country, but the text books, too, were of Connecticut origin. In addition to his "Dictionary," Noah Webster wrote a "Speller" which in the first half-century sold twenty million copies. Jedediah Morse of Woodstock published in 1784 the first "American Geography," which after mention of the " Great American Desert" added this sage remark: "It has been supposed that all settlers who go beyond the Mississippi will be for- ever lost to the United States." Connecticut early began its export of men and ideas. Dartmouth College is a Connecticut institution transplanted, for Eleazar Wheel- ock began his school for Indians in Williams County and moved northward to New Hampshire as pupils became scarce. Connec- ticut has given citizens and soldiers and college presidents to all the Middle Western States. The first Vermonters, the "Green Moun- tain boys," were nearly all Connecticutters, from Litchfield County. Yale is the daughter of Connecticut and the 'Mother of Colleges.' Yale is so largely patronized by the sons of Yale men that her prosperity largely depends upon the rate at which they propagate. Perhaps it is to encourage this that at all the great Yale celebrations the wives and children are so much in evidence. All this was recognized on the facade of the Connecticut Building at the Chicago Exposition in the legend above the entrance to the agricultural exhibit which read, "Connecticut's best crops are her sons and daughters." ROUTES HOW TO USE THIS HANDBOOK Towns, places, people are arranged alphabetically in the indexes. A Town and City Directory, alphabetically arranged, lists hotels, real estate dealers, shops, etc., of interest to tourists. To find any Route consult the Key Maps on the inside covers, or the Table of Contents. The routes have been made as contin- uous as possible to avoid the intricacy of hundreds of minor routes. In the first ten routes are comprised the entrance routes and those in Connecticut. In the second decade are those running northward from Connecticut, the great east and west routes across Massa- chusetts, and the minor routes radiating from Providence. Routes in the 2o's have to do with Boston and the shorter excursions there- from. The 3o's are the remaining longer routes from Boston; the 4o's are New Hampshire and Vermont routes, while the 50*3 are Maine routes. The longer routes are divided into sections between junction points with other routes, each section having its mileage separately given, facilitating combinations of sections. The Key Maps on the front and back covers illustrate the general arrangement of the routes. The colors on the map are the same as the color-markers on the telegraph poles and fence posts along the roads. In Massachusetts and Connecticut, State Highway Commissions have adopted a tricolor system, north and south, blue; east and west, red; secondary routes, yellow. In New Hamp- shire a distinctive color is used for each State Highway. The text of the route descriptions has been set in four different types enabling the reader quickly to pick out routes and section headings, towns and their statistical data. Matters of antiquarian detail and of lesser interest have been set in a smaller type that the hasty reader may more readily pass them over. Numerous cross references and full indexes aid in following a subject. The statistical data of towns in boldface italics follows a fixed order. The altitude (alt) is usually taken from Gannett's "Dic- tionary of Altitudes in the U.S." (U.S. G. S. Bull. 274). Where not there given, it is from the U.S. G. S. Topographic Atlas Sheets. (Usually the altitude of the railroad station or the town center is given.) The population (pop) is in every case from the U.S. 1910 Census. For Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and New York the State Census figure of 1915 is also given. For lesser towns the population is that of the township (twp), otherwise for the in- corporated borough or city. The date of settlement, or else of incorporation (inc.), and the Indian name are usually derived from town histories or verified by local authorities. Industrial products (mfg.) are given in the order of their relative importance. The value of the product and the payroll are from the 1910 U.S. Census; in Massachusetts from the State Report for 1913. (64) R. 1. NEW YORK TO BOSTON. 233 m. Via NEW HAVEN, HARTFORD, SPRINGFIELD, and WORCESTER. The main entrance to New England from the south, this is the chief route of travel between New York and Boston and affords an almost continuous stretch of bituminous macadam. The country traversed is of great and varied natural beauty, including the shore of the Sound, 'the Connecticut Valley, and the heart of Massachusetts, a region of great wealth and in- dustrial activity. Reference to the key maps on the inside covers and to the Connecticut and Rhode Island route maps will suggest many variations of the route from New York to Boston: via Danbury and Hartford, Route 3 via Pawling, Salisbury, Pittsfield, and Springfield, Routes 5 and 13; from New Haven, via the shore, New London, and Providence, Route 2; or via Durham and Middletown, Route la; from New London, via Norwich and Worcester, Route 1 2 ; from Saunders- town, via Newport, Route 2 n, and Route 32. The route follows the Old Boston Post Road from New Rochelle to Springfield with only slight deviations. The road naturally was laid out on the course of the old Indian trails, which the early settlers wore into bridle paths. From Springfield to Boston it follows the course of the Old Bay Path. The first mail between New York and Boston was carried over this course in January, 1673. As the chief line of communication between New England and the rest of the country, it played a thrilling and unique part in Revolutionary his- tory and was one of the important features in the country's early development. In 1753 the sites of the milestones on the Post Road were marked by Benjamin Franklin, then Postmaster-general, who measured the miles by the revolution of his wagon wheels, and super- vised the erection of some of the stones. Washington followed this road when he took command of the Continental Army at Cambridge in 1775 and on his tour of New England in a coach and four in 1789, just after his inauguration. It has been marked by the National Society of the Sons of the American Revolution with arrows and notices, "Washington Route." Many of the taverns along the routes preserve memories and relics of his visits. Connecticut and Massachusetts have, following the earlier lead of New Hampshire, recently instituted a system of marking trunk high- ways by color bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. In the two former states a tri-color system has been adopted, red designat- ing east and west routes, blue north and south, and yellow diagonal or secondary routes. Four poles are banded at either side of the intersection of roads to clearly direct the traveler along the main route. Between intersec- tions color bands are placed to define the route. This system of color bands is reinforced by arrow direction markers of the same color with the name of the next large town in four-inch letters. Occasionally two route colors are carried over the same section of the road for short distances. For illustrations of this system see map on front cover of this book. This route is marked by red bands from the Connecticut line at Greenwich to New Haven, with blue bands thence to Springfield, and with red from Springfield to Boston. (65) 66 NEW YORK PELHAM MANOR R. 1 1. New York to New Haven. 74.5 m. Via the GRAND CONCOURSE AND PELHAM PARKWAY, STAM- FORD, and BRIDGEPORT. STATE ROAD all the way. Marked from GREENWICH to NEW HAVEN with red bands on posts and with red arrows. This is one of the principal motor routes in America; be- tween one and two thousand automobiles pass over it every day. It is an excellent road, stretches of block pavement, asphalt, and oiled macadam alternating. The route out of New York as here described follows recently constructed boulevards, avoiding the Old Post Road until the shore is reached at New Rochelle. The Old Boston Post Road originally commenced at the Battery and led through the Bowery and along what is now Third Avenue to Harlem, thence through Morrisania and East Chester to New Ro- chelle. As this district is now practically included within the bounds of New York City there are many streets and routes laid out by which New Rochelle is to be reached, which are preferable to the rather sordid modern conditions along the Boston Road. Note. The following is the best exit from New York to New Rochelle. Other ways are via Boston Road following more nearly the Old Post Road; also via Queensboro Bridge, Flushing, Broadway, and the North Hempstead Turnpike to Roslyn, thence along the east shore of Hempstead Harbor to Sea Cliff, thence by ferry to New Rochelle or Rye, or via the north shore road on Long Island to Port Jefferson and thence by ferry to Bridgeport. From the Plaza, with St. Gaudens' equestrian statue of Gen- eral Sherman, 5Qth St. and Fifth Ave., or Columbus Circle, 5Qth St. and Eighth Ave., the winding driveways through Central Park are followed, keeping to the left of the Mall, to Webster's statue. Thence, keeping to the right of the reservoir, follow Seventh Ave., a broad boulevard, to i4$th St. Here turn right and cross Harlem river by Central Bridge, with a sharp left turn into Mott Ave. (5.0); leaving the statue of General Franz Sigel on left, continue on Grand Boulevard and Con- course; at 9.5 turn right into Pelham Ave., which becomes Pelham Parkway. In Poe Park, to the left from the Con- course, is the Poe Cottage, where the poet lived (1846-49). In the struggle to live within his means and to find pure country air for his invalid wife, he moved to this little house in the Bronx. Here he wrote "Eureka," "Annabel Lee," and "Ulalume." Although the picture of a raven was afterward painted on the gable end of the house, he did not write "The Raven" here, but in an old house in West 84th St. Opposite the cottage is a bust of the poet erected by the Bronx Society of Arts and Sciences. Above is St. John's College, R.C. The route leads across Bronx Park where are extensive zoological and botanical gardens and the old Lorillard mansion. (To the left, White Plains Road and Boston Road are alternatives to New Ro- R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 67 chelle, the latter being the shortest route and offering an ex- cellent surface.) The Pelham Parkway, with asphalt block pavement, is the only road in New York City restricted solely to motor travel. It turns left into the Shore Road, across the head of East Chester Bay, and so connects Bronx Park with Pelham Bay Park. The latter is the largest park in Greater New York and has over seven miles of waterfront on the Sound and Pelham Bay. The battle of Pell's Point in the Revolutionary War took place within the present confines of Pelham Bay Park. On the left of the highway connecting the Shore Road with City Island a large boulder bears a tablet with the following inscription: "Glover's Rock. ... In memory of the 550 patriots who, led by Col. John Glover, held Gen. Howe's Army in check at the battle of Pell's Point, Oct. 18, 1776, thus aiding Washington in his retreat to White Plains. Fame is the perfume of heroic deeds." The retreat was by way of the Split Rock Road, which leaves the Shore Road to the left just beyond the City Island highway. The split rock lies west of the road to which it gives its name and attracts attention as the site of the former house of Anne Hutchinson; recall- ing her turbulent experiences in Boston, her expulsion from the Massa- chusetts Bay Colony, and finally the massacre by the Indians of her- self and her family. In the Sound, off Pelham Bay Park, are City Island, a rendezvous for yachtsmen, Travers Island, the home of the New York Athletic Club, and Glen Island, long a popular excursion resort. To the south is Fort Schuyler on Throg's Neck; the Havemeyer and Collis P. Huntington estates are near the end of the Neck, and along the shore is the Westchester Country Club. Within the club grounds stands the famous old Ferris house, occupied by Lord Howe and his officers, one of whom rode his horse through the hall from front door to back, to prove his lord-and-mastery. Mrs. Charity Ferris is said to have pre- vented a bombardment of the house by walking up and down the veranda, and she remained at home during the British occupancy, ostensibly to cook for the officers, in reality putting valuable informa- tion into Washington's hands by means of a little darkey whom she sent to the village on 'errands.' In the distance rises the great steel arch, joined in 1915, of the new Hell Gate railroad bridge, by which a through route from Boston to the West and South will be afforded via New York without change. 16.0 PELHAM MANOR. Pop 1115 (1915). Settled 1654. The name recalls the Pell family whose classic mansion with its stately portico still stands in Pelham Bay Park. It was in 1654 that Thomas Pell bought from the Indians this large tract of about 9000 acres. Yet Pelham Manor has only recently begun to wear an urban air. It is a highly restricted settlement in spite of rapid development, and the houses and grounds show expenditure of great wealth. The country here is naturally a beautiful one with wooded hills, rocky ledges, and parklike areas studded with magnificent trees. The route continues along the Shore Road across a narrow strip of Pelham Manor and into New Rochelle, curving at its 68 PELHAM MANOR NEW ROCHELLE end to the left into Echo Ave. and again to the right into Main St. Shortly after reaching Main St., at its junction with Huguenot St., is a monument bearing a tablet inscribed: "This tablet is erected to indicate the 'Old Post Road' extending from New York to Boston, originally an Indian trail; opened by Royal Commission in 1672 as the road to New England. It was known in Colonial days as 'The King's Highway.' On that portion called Huguenot Street within this city are located the sites of the first church, school, tavern, and dwellings of the ancient village of New Rochelle. Over this road Paul Revere carried the news of the battle of Lexing- ton and General Washington hastened to take command of the Ameri- can Army at Cambridge in 1775. One of the first recognized mail routes in the colonies, its dust was hallowed by the tread of Patriots' feet all through the war of the Revolution." 18.0 NEW ROCHELLE. Alt 72 ft. Pop 28,867 (1910), 31,758 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled 1689. Mfg. scales and delicate weighing machines, speedometers, motion picture films; printing. Ferry to Sea Cliff, L.I. This 'city in the country' occupies a beautiful stretch of land with a perfect harbor protected by the long peninsula of Davenport Neck and is a favorite yachting center with four yacht clubs. The region is one of rapid expansion and new houses. Near the railroad is the extensive plant of the Knicker- bocker Press. The Thanhouser moving picture films are made here, on Main St. near the junction of Echo Ave. The New York element for the most part occupies several residential parks, among which are Rochelle, Neptune, Beechmont, Resi- dence, and Wykagyl. The College of New Rochelle, for girls, is located here; the buildings cover more than a block between Castle Place and Liberty Ave. Leland Castle, the main building, was erected about 1858 by Smith Leland and is decorated with frescoes and colored marbles. New Rochelle is a favorite haunt for Thespians. Mrs. Vernon Castle is a native, while George Randolph Chester, the creator of "Get Rich Quick Wallingford," Eddie Foy, the Broadway comedian, and Marc Klaw, the theatrical manager, reside here. John Mason, for many years with Mrs. Fiske, and more recently a star in his own right, and also Charles H. Niehaus, the sculptor, have homes in the neighborhood. Stella Mayhew, the musical comedy star, is the honorary third assistant 'Chief' of the Fire Department. Overlooking Echo Bay on the point by Hudson Park are many of the estates of the Iselin family, who are mainly re- sponsible for the local interest in yachting, centering in the New Rochelle and Larchmont Yacht Clubs. They likewise provided funds for the erection of St. Gabriel's Church, R.C. Frank X. Leyendecker, who does "Vogue" covers and Arrow Collar ads, has a handsome estate on Mt. Tom road. Other R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 69 illustrators identified with the town are Coles Phillips, designer of original magazine covers; Kemble, whose 'coons' have delighted a generation; and the late Frederick Remington, painter of cowboys and Indians, who lived in the oldfashioned house in Remington Place. A monument in Hudson Park on the waterfront marks the place where the first Huguenot settlers landed from La Rochelle, France. This bears a tablet on which are inscribed " French Huguenot Family Names identified with the History of New Rochelle prior to 1750"; many of these are borne by residents of New Rochelle today. THE TOM PAINE HOUSE, NOW THE HUGUENOT MUSEUM Some miles back from the shore, at the entrance to Wykagyl Park, on North Ave., laid out in 1693, anf l beyond Beechmont Park, stands the house of 'Tom' Paine, now the headquarters and museum of the Huguenot Association of New Rochelle. This is on his farm, pre- sented to him in 1784 by the State of New York for his services in the cause of American liberty. It had formerly been the estate of a Tory and was therefore confiscated. Before the house stands the monu- ment placed over his grave in 1839, surmounted by a bust. On the same land stands the first school house in the town, more than a century old. Thomas Paine was the son of an English Quaker and came to this country in 1774. In 1776 he wrote a pamphlet entitled "Common Sense," urging the separation of the colonies from the mother country. This won him the friendship of Washington, Franklin, and other patriots. His pamphlet "The Crisis" began with the celebrated line, ''These are the times that try men's souls." Anathematized by the patriots for religious views, then liberal, which would today be con- sidered conservative, he was refused burial in consecrated ground and 70 NEW ROCHELLE RYE was buried on his farm. William Cobbett, the English political economist, a great admirer of Paine, in i8ig caused Paine's remains to be exhumed and carried to England. His resting place is now unknown, though some bones and clothing were brought back many years ago. Some distance from the town center was the farm of Benjamin Fannel, or Faneuil, one of the earliest settlers. Benjamin had a brother Andrew in Boston, a bachelor and wealthy merchant, who sent word that he would like one of his numerous nephews to come and learn his business and become his heir, with the one proviso that he must remain single. The oldest son went, but disappointed his uncle by getting married. Another son, Peter, who followed, lived up to the requirement, became his uncle's heir, and in due course through thrifty rascality and trade in rum and niggers the most wealthy, powerful, and luxurious merchant in Boston. When he was 'fat and forty' he fell a victim to feminine charms, but, unsuccessful in his wooing, remained a bachelor. It was this Peter Faneuil who in 1741 gave Boston her marketplace and the Hall which became the 'Cradle of Liberty.' In 1689 Jacob Leisler, a resident of this region, became interested in the persecuted Huguenots, who had been driven out of France in 1685 by the revocation of the Edict of Nantes. He bought from John Pell, the manor-lord of Pelham, 6000 acres of land, "to have and to hold . . . unto the said Jacob Leisler . . . forever yielding and paying unto the said John Pell, his heirs and assigns, lords of the said Manor of 'Pelham . . . one fat calf on every four and twentieth day of June, yearly and every year forever if demanded." A bronze statue on North Ave. near the Paine House does tardy honor to Leisler, who unjustly suffered death by hanging in 1691; the attainder of treason against this victim of political jealousy was after- ward removed and his innocence declared. The first Huguenot settlers came here in 1686 or 1687, followed by a considerable number brought from the West Indies the next year. It was still popularly known in Revolutionary times as the 'French Towne.' Dr. Dwight, writing in 1818, says: "The old French houses, long buildings of stone, of one story, with few and small windows, and high, steep roofs, are very ill-suited to the appearance of this fine ground. Nor is the church, built by the same people in the same style, at all more ornamental. There are, however, several good English houses." The towns of Larchmont, Mamaroneck, Rye, and Port Chester, through which the road now takes us, form practically one continuous community of New York country residents. Yacht clubs are very numerous along the shore here, taking advantage of the many harbors. 19.7 LARCHMONT. Alt 42 ft. Pop 1958 (1910), 2060 (1915). Westchester Co. This is a modern town wellknown to yachtsmen. Its yacht club ranks high in wealth and the character of the yachts representing it and is the headquarters for social gayety. On the right upon entering the village is the massive stone chimney of the Disbrow House, built in 1677 and destroyed by a fire about thirty years ago, in which Cooper's hero of "The Spy," Harvey Birch, is supposed to have been secreted. R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 71 This locality, formerly known as Munroe's Neck, became the property in 1845 of a Mr. Collins, who called it Larchmont from a group of larch trees which he planted. Larchmont Manor is to the south of the road on a broad promontory ending in Umbrella Point on the west side of the harbor. Heathcote Hill, to the north of the Post Road, is now cov- ered with dwellings, but is rich in both historic and literary associations. It was named from Colonel Heathcote, who built a large brick mansion burned before the Revolution. The post-Revolutionary Heathcote Hall is now a road house. In 1776 it was the scene of a surprise attack by a Delaware regiment upon the Queen's Rangers, a battalion of Loyalist Americans, who were worsted. This is interesting as an occasion where Americans fought Americans. The dead were buried near the hill in a common grave, "Rider and horse. friend and foe, in one red burial blent." A great-grandson of Colonel Heathcote's, Judge DeLancey, who succeeded to the estate, had two daughters, one of whom married John MacAdam, the inventor of the road which bears his name, and the other, James Fenimore Cooper. Cooper lived for some time on the slope of the hill and here were written his first two novels, "Precaution" (1820) and "The Spy." The scenes of the latter are almost wholly in this 'Neutral Ground,' which lay between New Rochelle and Stamford, where were respec- tively the lines of the British and the Continental armies. 21.5 MAMARONECK. Pop 5607 (1910), 7290 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled 1676. Mfg. raincoats. The name is Indian and is said to mean "place of the winged heart." The spelling has been changed seven times since the white men began to use it. The government has undertaken harbor improvements which will afford shipping facilities. Here at 'Sunny Gables,' Blanche Ring, the popular actress, spends her leisure days. Beyond the village to the right is the classic Jay mansion with tall white columns. The Jays were Huguenots who bought this property in 1745, and here John Jay, the great statesman and jurist, spent his youth. Orienta Point, a broad peninsula projecting into the Sound, is a residential region. Here is Oaksmere, Mrs. Merrill's School for Girls. From the Mamaroneck river to Rye and on to Port Chester the road is paved with asphalt blocks. 25.0 RYE. Alt 49 ft. Pop 3964 (1910), 5339 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled by the Dutch 1640. Indian name Apawamis. A fashionable New York residential town. Ferry from Oakland Beach to Sea Cliff, L.I. The village green and the historic Episcopal parish date from 1702. At the junction of the Post Road and Purchase St., near the colonial Public Library, is a building with the sign, "Village of Rye, Municipal Hall." Originally a Post Road tavern, successively known as The Square House, Pennfield's, 72 RYE PORT CHESTER and during the Revolution, Haviland's Inn, among its guests were John Adams, on his way to attend the Continental Congress of 1774, Washington on his New England- journey in 1789, who said, "We proceeded to a tavern kept by a Mrs. Haviland, at Rye, who keeps a very neat and decent inn," and Lafayette, who slept here on his way from New York to Boston in 1824. Christ Church, established in 1695, when the Puritans of Massachusetts and New Haven looked askance at the word "Church," has in its possession a chalice and cover of silver presented by Queen Anne. James Fenimore Cooper attended its service for a time. Rye Seminary, a boarding school for girls, is one of the oldest schools on the Connecticut shore. Rye and Oakland Beaches, on the shore near the village Park, are popular local resorts. The Dutch bought this region from the Indians in 1640, but it re- mained a debatable land and some Greenwich men about 1660 settled on Manursing Island. In 1662, at the Restoration, they made this record of their allegiance: "That inhabitants of Minnussing Island . . . therefore doe proclayme Charles the Second ovr lawful lord and king; . . . We doe agree that for ovr land bought on the mayn land, called in the Indian Peningoe, and in English Biaram land, lying between the aforesaid Biaram river and the Blind Brook, bounded east and west with those two rivers, and on the north with Westchester path, and on the south with the sea, for a plantation, and the name of the towne to be called Hastings." A most religious community at first, even before the Revolution it had fallen from grace and was a famously rakish horse-racing resort. Not until 1671 was it safe to settle on the mainland. Then Manurs- ing Island, now a region of aristocratic homes, was practically de- serted. Some of the new settlers of the mainland came from Rye, England, and named their new village "Rye within the Bounds of Hastings." Leaving Rye the road forks right at flagpole, crosses R.R., a mile further on leads under R.R., and left with trolley to 26.7 PORT CHESTER. Pop (Rye twp) 12,809 (1910), 15,129 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled by 1732. Mfg. bolts, nuts, gaso- line motors, and wood molding. This is the last town in New York State, the boundary line being the Byram river. It is a region of parklike expanses, great oaks, and beautiful residences, and has been a favorite ground for real estate exploiters. The Methodist Church, built of white concrete, is a remarkable edifice with a Russian cast of countenance. In Colonial times it was known as Rye Port, as a ferry was operated here even in 1739 for service to Oyster Bay on the Long Island shore. Up to 1837 it was called Saw Pit Landing, from the shipyard in one part of the settlement. During the Revolution the Tories, who were numerous in these parts, endeavored to supply New York with food at the time of the British occupation, but their attempts were brought to nothing by the activities of the 'whaleboat men' from nearby rivers R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 73 and brooks. The place was of little importance until the railroad was put through in 1848, when there was quickly established a manufact- uring interest which remains to this day. The Byram river is the Connecticut boundary, finally established only after almost interminable disputes between the Dutch and Eng- lish and later between the Colonies and the States. Tradition has it that the river was originally called 'Buy-Rum' from certain trans- actions between the early inhabitants and the Indians. Though from here on the country is a part of New England and under Connecticut jurisdiction it is still a region of New Yorkers. As Poultney Bigelow says: "The shore line of Connecticut is a marine esplanade of costly residences built by men from the big cities and the factories to whom the history of Connecticut is as strange as that of ancient Chaldea." "The Coast of Yankee Land extends from Quoddy Head to the Byram river." As is evidenced by the narratives of the early settlers, Verazzano, Gosnold, Smith, and others, this coast was an almost continuous succession of Indian villages, thickly populated before the pestilence that swept them away just preceding the settlement. In Colonial times nearly every strategic point was the scene of fierce encounters with the Indians. Today there is an almost uninter- rupted stretch of summer seaside residences and pleasure resorts, and each portion of the coast has its own particular charm. Hardly a mile of all this thousand miles of shore but is now held at real estate prices for residences and hotels. It has become the great summer refreshment place of the nation, attracting colonies from Pittsburgh, Chicago, St. Louis, and beyond. Nearly every town has a touch of civic pride. Each has its soldiers' monument, for every village and hamlet took its share in the Civil War as in the Revolution. And not a town but has its public library, generally memorials of some son or daughter who feels pride in the ancestral home. Passing from New York into Connecticut we leave the region where the county is the administrative unit of local government. In New England it is the township. Thomas Anburey, an officer under General Burgoyne, coming here as a captive, notes: "Most of the places you pass through in Connecticut are called townships, which are not regular towns as in England, but a number of houses dispersed over a large tract of ground, belonging to one cor- poration, that sends members to the General Assembly of the States. About the centre of these townships stands the meeting-house or church, with a few surrounding houses; sometimes the church stands singly. It is no little mortification, when fatigued, after a long day's journey, on enquiring how far it is to such a town, to be informed you are there at present; but on enquiring for the church, or any particular tavern, you are informed it is seven or eight miles further." The Post Road generally follows its oldtime route, but in portions has varied its course, particularly as bridges made possible a shorter route. Following the Indian trails it originally went around ob- stacles. Then the county roads were laid out more regularly on prop- erty lines. The turnpikes, beginning about 1800, were generally laid out on the geometric axiom that "a straight line is the shortest distance between two points," and without much respect for gravity went to the very hilltops in pursuance of this principle. Within the last quarter of a century has co_me the state road, built by practical engineers who recognize gravitation as a human factor, and calculate grades in per cents. The present road, then, follows only in general the Indian Trail and the Post Road. From this point it is marked by red bands on poles and posts at all doubtful points. 74 GREENWICH 29.7 GREENWICH. Pop (borough) 3886, (twp) 16,463. Fairfield Co., Conn. Settled 1640. Indian name Moakewego. Mfg. belting, woolens, tinners' hardware. This beautiful town boasts fifty millionaires and is second in wealth among all the towns of the country. It claims, too, the highest land within a mile of shore between Maine and New Jersey. Beautiful hills, wooded, rocky dells, and an in- teresting and diversified coast line broken by deep harbors, early made this a favorite place of residence with wealthy New Yorkers. From an oldfashioned New England village with an historical background it has in fifty years developed into an up-to-date, bustling, critical city of wealth with all the appurtenances thereto. The cotton merchant who did most to promote the present prosperity of the town is generously commemorated in the Bruce mansion, Bruce Art Museum, and Bruce Memorial Park, the latter, on the shore south of the railroad, diversified with rocks, salt pools, and green lawns. In it is the rock cave known as Addington House, which during the Revolution was used as a place of concealment. Magnificent estates crown its hills and line its shores. Belle Haven is the abode of New York brokers and bankers. In- dian Harbor, Smith Cove, and Greenwich Cove are lined with residences. Field Point, well out from the shore, is perhaps the most exclusive section. Northward, Rock Ridge, Edge- wood Park, and Round Hill (500 ft) are dotted with resi- dential parks, some a thousand acres in extent. The Post Road continues along the ridge through a resi- dential section; the business center is on the lower slope to the south. Behind the Soldiers' Monument is the Congregational Church, opposite which is Millbank, a large country estate, once the home of 'Bill' Tweed, the political boss of the '6o's, now the home of Mrs. A. A. Anderson, the philanthropist. North Street, the old 'North Way,' runs for miles along the crest of a ridge and leads to some of the more magnificent estates, which rival those of Lenox and Newport. Bordering on it are the estates of Frederic W. Lincoln, Mrs. Wm. A. Evans, the house a copy of the Petit Trianon, the Zabruskie and Grey Villas, and Ely Court, all of which have a broad view over the Mianus valley. In the valley are the estates of John Flagler, Raymond Boiling, and Emil Boas. On Lake Ave., running north from the Presbyterian Church along another ridge, are the estates of Wm. Rockefeller, Percy A. Rockefeller, Isaac Phelps Stokes, John R. French, and Rosemary Hall. Six miles out is the i2oo-acre estate of Edmund C. Converse, the steel magnate, which is reputed to have cost $12,000,000. Greenwich has a number of interesting and out-of-the-ordi- nary private schools. The Brunswick School, for boys, is a R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 75 model of its kind. The Ely School for Girls, formerly of New York, occupies the estate known as Ely Court on North St. Rosemary Hall is another girls' school. Wabanaki, the Wood- craft School, an open-air school maintained by Mrs. Charles Tarbell Dudley on the Stokes estate, is now building a model open-air school on land recently purchased from the estate of Mr. Ernest Thompson Seton on the Round Hill Road. The Fairhope Summer School is conducted by Mrs. J. F. Johnson, who has developed novel and promising educational methods, in the Greenwich Academy building on Maple Ave. Putnam Cottage with a cannon in front of it stands on the Post Road opposite the Episcopal Church. It is the old Knapp Tavern dating from 1731 and since 1906 in care of the D.A.R. Within are Colonial relics and portraits of 'Old Put.' Just beyond are the steps recut in the rocky slope when the D.A.R. erected a monument in 1902 to mark the site of Putnam's leap, the whole locality being reserved as Putnam Hill Park. It was at this tavern, the legend runs, in 1779 on the morning after a dance to which he had taken pretty Mistress Bush behind him on his pillion, that Putnam was startled by the cry that the British cavalry were at hand. Dropping his razor he dashed down stairs, leaped to his horse and was away, with the enemy in hot pursuit. Hard pressed, he left the main road and raced down a breakneck rocky slope in which were cut a flight of steps. However this may be, Putnam, who was in command of the Continentals here, was sur- prised by Tryon's raiders. In his own words he reports, "A detach- ment from the enemy," including 1700 British regulars and Hessians, "marched from their lines for Horseneck with an intention of surpris- ing the troops at that place and destroying the salt works." The next day, however, Putnam hastily brought up reinforcements from Stamford, drove out the British, took thirty-five men prisoners, and captured two baggage wagons. Cos COB (31 .2), on low level land bordering the Mianus river, was formerly known as Strickland Plains, and now bears the name of Chief Coscob of the Indian village, where in early times an all-day fight broke the Indian power. Up the river is the estate of Ernest Thompson Seton, which he has made into a park of remarkable beauty, and in which, as one might surmise, the animals of the wild find a pleasant home. Here too lives Julian Street, whose flitting ''Travels at Home" are tinged with seriousness of insight. At Riverside, east of the Mianus, on the railroad south of the Post Road, is Thrushwood, the home of Irving Bacheller, the novelist. The beautiful white building is the yacht club. Sound Beach, also shoreward of the Post Road, is the Green- wich 'Old Town,' the site of the first settlement. From the railway a residential section extends south on a long J-shaped headland running two miles into the Sound, and enclosing Greenwich Cove in its sheltering arm. 76 GREENWICH STAMFORD Settled in 1640 from Watertown, Mass., this location had previously been the site of an important Mohican village. The English settlers grew indignant at the Puritanical government forced upon them by the New Haven colony and in 1642 placed themselves under the Dutch government of the New Netherlands. For twenty-two years Green- wich remained a Dutch patroonship and served as a Gretna Green for eloping couples as well as a harbor for refugees from the Connecticut Blue Laws. In 1644 Captain John Underbill, an adventurer who had been banished from the Bay Colony, in the service of the Dutch, attacked the stockaded Indian village in Strickland Plain on the east side of the Mianus river. Between six hundred and a thousand braves perished. The twelve survivors captured were sold into slavery. "And the heart of Boston was glad to hear How he harried the foe on the long frontier, And heaped on the land against him barred The coals of his generous watch and ward. Frailest and bravest! the Bay State still Counts with her worthies John Underbill." WHITTIER. The bodies were heaped together and covered with rubbish, forming mounds long visible near Cos Cob, from which have been taken many arrow and javelin heads and tomahawks. About a mile from Cos Cob on the Post Road is Laddin's Rock Park, the private property of Mr. William L. Marks, through whose courtesy it is daily open to the public. Laddin's Rock is a steep precipice where it is said that an old Dutchman, Cornelius Labden, coming through the woods on horseback, was pursued by three Indians on foot, and rather than be captured rode his horse at full speed over the precipice. 35.0 STAMFORD. Pop 25,128, (twp) 28,386. Fairfield Co. Settled 1641. Indian name Rippowams. Mfg. Yale locks, Blick- ensderfer typewriters, dye stuffs, extracts, machinery, bronzes, pottery, chocolate, furs, camphor, pianos, insulated wire, etc. Daily steamer to New York. Stamford is an important industrial center and has for many years been a residential town for New York business men. The residential and manufacturing centers are so far segregated that wealthy New York commuters live here for years, scarcely seeing a factory. A spacious civic center, dignified public buildings, wealthy residents, and beautiful estates make Stamford with her seven hills and her varied shore line one of the favorite places. The recent electrifica- tion of the New Haven R.R. between New York and New Haven with over eighty trains a day from the metropolis and beyond has made it even more desirable as a place of residence for New York business men. Although the city has Con- necticut's traditional diversity of industries, Stamford is in other respects more of a New York community. Atlantic Square on which face the beautiful new Town Hall and the new Federal Building has been the business center since the earliest days. R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 77 Among the artistic and literary residents are Gutzon Borglum, the sculptor; Henry Miller, the actor, whose model dairy at Sky Meadows and Sound View Farm, are famous; William Long, author of many books, who inspired from Theodore Roosevelt polemics against nature fakers; and Bliss Carman, author of "Songs from Vagabondia" and "Pipes of Pan." Shippan Point, extending far into the Sound, was the site of a settlement as early as 1640. It was from here that Major Benjamin Tallmadge by a night raid across the Sound sur- prised and captured a superior British force at Lloyds Neck, L.I. This same Tallmadge, now a Colonel, the following year caused the arrest of Major Andre. Shippan Point is today a place of beautiful shore residences, the Stamford Yacht Club, and Miss Low and Miss Heywood's School for girls. Toward the north the hill country, with widespreading oaks, is thickly taken up with parklike private estates. Straw- berry Hill and Ravonah Manor to the north and Hubbard Heights to the west are favorite sections. Here among others is the intentionally uncultivated 4co-acre wildwood estate of the distinguished New York surgeon and naturalist whose cross- fertilization of nut trees has produced wonderful results. The hinterland, with ridges rising to 500 feet running north and south, between which flows the Rippowam river, is one of luxurious country seats with little farmhouses and bungalows of New York folk. The rural terrain to the north is traversed by five main highways leading off toward North Stamford and New Canaan, the Long Ridge, High Road, Newfield, Springdale, and Glen- brook Roads, two of which are traversed by auto-bus. Stam- ford has a number of small parks, some in the heart of the city, but its pride is Halloween Park on the seashore, which in ad- dition to the usual park features has boat and canoe houses, bath houses, athletic fields, and tennis courts. The segregated manufacturing center on the harbor front seems to manufacture everything from pianos and play-o-graphs to motors and mineral grinders. The chief industry is that of the Yale & Towne Mfg. Co., whose extensive works, employing 5000 hands, are south of the railroad and near the station. Here are manufactured Yale Locks of every kind from a tiny padlock to the massive bank lock, as well as builders' hardware, door closers, etc. The business, removed from Shelburne Falls (R. 15), was established in Stamford in 1868 by Linus Yale, Jr., the inventor, and Henry R. Towne. Since the death of the former in 1868 the latter has controlled and directed the business and has been a pioneer in modern scientific management. Among other industries are the Blickensderfer Mfg. Co., of typewriter fame, the Atlantic Insulated Wire and Cable Company, and the Stollwerk Chocolate works, the only branch of this foreign corporation located in the U.S. The Stamford Foundry Company has been making stoves and furnaces here since 1830. In 1640 Captain Turner of the New Haven Colony purchased the 78 STAMFORD DARIEN land hereabouts from the Indians for a consideration of sundry coats, hats, blankets, wampum, etc. Various deeds were duly executed and signed by the local Sagamores with their ' marks.' The first settle- ment was made in 1641 by a party of twenty-nine from Wethersfield, who immediately got into 'hot water' with their New Haven neigh- bors. But they had come from a contentious community and were well able to weather the storm of protest they raised, though a few of less hardihood moved to Long Island to enjoy a more peaceful life under the Dutch rule. In 1657 the town issued an edict against "the cursed sect of heretics risen in the world which are commonly called Quakers," two of whom wandering through this country about this time have left us the fol- lowing account of their experiences: "Came yt Evneing to a town Caled Stamford in Conacktecok Colny it being a prety large bvt dark town; not a frind living in all yt provence; they being all Rigid prespetrions or independents ... so we went to an Inn. I asked ye woman of ye hows if yt she woold be willing to sufer a meeting to be in her hows. She said yes, she would not deny no sivel Company from coming to her hows . . . and therfor I sent those frinds yt war with us to go and invite ye peopel to come to our inn, for we ware of those people Caled quekers, and we had somthing to say to them," but the authorities got wind of the meeting, broke it up and drove them out of town. For more than two hundred years Stamford was hardly more than a hamlet in the midst of an agricultural district, yet played its part in local and Colonial affairs. On the memorable Dark Day, May 17, 1780, great fear fell on the Connecticut Legislature, then in session; and in anticipation of the approach of the Day of judgment an ad- journment was moved. Colonel Abraham Davenport, "a man of stern integrity and generous benevolence," who had for twenty-five years been in the State Legislature, arose and spoke: "I am against an adjournment. The Day of Judgment is either approaching, or it is not. If it is not, there is no cause for an adjournment. If it is, I choose to be found doing my duty. I wish, therefore, that candles may be brought." The brave old man calmed the fears of the legisla- tors and the session continued. Whittier made this incident the theme of a poem and the Davenport Hotel perpetuates the name. In 1838 Stamford was a small hamlet of but 700. The era of rail- road construction a decade later was the signal for a remarkable in- dustrial and residential development, as with many towns along this shore. The opening of the first factory of the Yale Lock Company in 1868 marked another important step in Stamford's industrial progress. Stamford was formerly the home of a number prominent in the theatrical profession, among them Lester Wallack, whose place was at The Cove, A. M. Palmer, whose place was at Stillwater, and the Frohmans, on Noroton Hill. Note- Eight miles to the north of Stamford lies the quiet vil- lage of NEW CANAAN. This is one of the modern artistic and literary shrines of Connecticut. Its village Green, old Colonial houses, meeting house steeples, and Old Mill are a lure to which many lovers of peace and quiet respond as year-round or summer residents. There is a lake, Wampanaw by name, for the 'compleat angler,' Indian Rocks have geological fascination for the would-be scientist, and a bit of bohemian flavor and democracy lends the finishing touch of romantic effect. From the Square in Stamford the route leaves the Town Hall at the right, following the red markers. To the north on the railroad is Glenbrook, a suburb of Stamford. The road R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 79 crosses the Noroton river to NOROTON (38.0), a typical New England village. Here is the Wee Barn Country Club with its famous golf course. Bordering the road is the Spring Grove Cemetery. The systematic arrangement of the rows of tombstones of the old soldiers at once attracts attention. The country is hilly and wooded with outcropping ledges. A half mile to the right is the old Gorham Tide Mill near the shore, to which the farmers for centuries brought their grain to be ground. Beyond is Noroton Neck, long a region of sea- side residences. The houses along the road here are so evenly distributed that it is difficult to tell where one town begins and another ends. 39.5 DARIEN. Alt 66 ft. Pop (twp) 3946. Fair field Co. Inc. 1820. Mfg. pins, pianos, combs, keys, dairy machinery, etc. This town boasts that for its size it is the wealthiest town in Connecticut, and the general appearance of the estates would justify the acceptance of this claim. Men of wealth make this their year-round home, and as one cleverly expresses it, "Whenever I am in town you will find me out here in the country." Its rural inhabitants have been accustomed to pronounce the name Dairy Ann, and dairy machinery is still made in the village. The present square-towered, porticoed Congregational Church, erected in 1837, bears on its facade a D.A.R. tablet worth reading. It tells how while services were going on in an earlier church on the site, in 1781, a band of Tories surrounded it and took fifty of the men prisoners. With their venerable pastor at their head, the prisoners were marched to boats and taken to Lloyds Neck on Long Island and thence to the Provost Prison in New York, where some of them died. The aged pastor would have shared the same fate had he not been supplied with comforts and necessaries by the mother of Washington Irving. One of the prisoners, Peter St. John, who survived the brutali- ties, thus relates in doggerel verse his experience of the Provost Prison: "I must conclude that in this place We found the worst of Adam's race; One of our men found, to his cost, Three pounds York money he had lost; His pockets picked, I guess before We had been there one single hour." The whaleboat men of this town had been active and daring during the Revolution in their attacks upon vessels in the Sound, carrying supplies to New York, and making raids on the Tories on Long Island, until they were "hoist upon their own petard" as above related. East of Darien is the musical and literary shore colony of Tokeneke, exploited by a corporation, which now includes in its representative membership such wellknown people as David Bispham, the singer, Richard Le Gallienne, the poet, a retired evangelist of world fame, a Broadway matinee idol, playwrights, and a sprinkling of men whose hobby is business. The countryside from the top of the rocky peninsula to the 8o DARIEN NORWALK hills of the hinterland is dotted with homes. To the south of the Post Road nearer the shore is Rowayton, prettily situated at the head of Five Mile river. Here it is alleged some artists have sequestered themselves. 43.S NORWALK. Pop 24,211. Fairfield Co. Settled 1650. Mfg. corsets, shirts, silks, hats, laces, automobile tires, air com- pressors, and builders' hardware. The attractive city of Norwalk is the first of the larger Con- necticut towns on this road to present the characteristic New England appearance, with the three white meeting houses on the elm-shaded Green. The city has many fine specimens of old Colonial domestic architecture, among which is the Royal James Inn, with a dignified portico and lofty wing. Formerly there were as many Norwalks as Oranges or Newtons, but in 1913 the present municipality was formed, which combined not only Norwalk, South, East, and West, but Rowayton and Winnipauk. It is a public-spirited community with a live Chamber of Commerce which heralds it as 'The Gem City' and as 'A City of Parts.' Coming into the town the Hospital is on the right. At the foot of the hill on West Ave., opposite the State Armory is a beautiful drinking fountain inscribed by the D.A.R. to Nathan Hale, with his last words, "I regret that I have but one life to lose for my country." In the disguise of a Dutch school master he took a boat from Norwalk across to Long Island, the enemy's country, on the mission which resulted in his cap- ture and death. The route follows the trolley past the Library and the old Norwalk Hotel, built in 1775, a famous hostelry in the old coaching days, when it was known as the Connecticut House. Leaving the center of Norwalk our road crosses the Norwalk river and ascends the Mill Hill. On the right is the Town Hall, built in 1835, a squat, red brick building with a cupola, which looks like a little old school house, and at the next turn is the Green mentioned above. North of Norwalk the artists have congregated at Silver Mine, and here lives Solon Borglum, the sculptor, brother of the Stamford artist. On the outskirts of the town is the Hillside School for Girls, some of the buildings of which have been used for school purposes for a half-century. South Norwalk, south of the Post Road on the main line of the railroad, on the good harbor furnished by the broad estuary of the Norwalk river, is naturally a modern industrial center, whose products show a most surprising variety. The secretary of the Chamber of Commerce gives first on the list the interesting combination of "oysters, corsets, and air com- R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 8 1 pressors." The nationally known Cluett-Peabody Company has a plant here. Here, too, is the R. & G. Company, known to the readers of women's magazines. The Norwalk Iron Works Company makes air and gas compressors. Oystering is an industry of some importance. The harbor and the coast off shore are studded with islands which add to its beauty. Toward the Sound there are beautiful residential sections. Roton Point, formerly an excursion resort, is a beautiful spot with rocky headlands and sandy beaches. Here is the Norwalk Yacht Club, and further out on Wilson's Point is the Knob Outing Club. Overlooking the Sound is the half-timber Eliza- bethan summer residence of James A. Farrell, president of the Steel Trust. The so-called Yankee Doodle House, constructed 1763, was the home of the Revolutionary Colonel Thomas Fitch, locally known as 'Yankee Doodle' Fitch, who is said to have incited the famous verses. East Norwalk is on the eastern shore of the harbor, with a yacht club, country club, and several residential sections of its own. The Roger Ludlow monument marks the spot where Ludlow made the treaty with the Indians for the purchase of the territory of Norwalk. The name "Norwalk" is derived from Norowake or Norwaake, an Indian chief, though another and more fanciful explanation is that the original purchase of land from the Indians extended a day's north walk from the salt water. Roger Ludlow negotiated this bargain, the 'price' including the usual assortment of coats, hatchets, hoes, also " 10 seizers, 10 juseharps, and some 3 kettles of six hands about." There were some Huguenots among the first settlers; in a record pre- served of the date of 1678 there is evidence of both a desire for educa- tion and a commendable thrift, and "it was voted and agreed to hier a scole master to teach all the childring in the towne to learn to Reade and write; & that Mr. Cornish shall be hierd for that service & the townsmen are to hier him upon as reasonable terms as they can." It was at the mouth of the Norwalk river that Tryon landed his forces July 10, 1779, a few days after the destruction of Fairfield. A tablet on a hilltop north of the town marks the spot where according to tradition Tryon watched the burning of Norwalk. Washington has left us a description of the Norwalk of his time in his diary: "At Norwalk ... we made a halt to feed our Horses. To the lower end of this town Sea Vessels come, and at the other end are Mills, Stores, and an Episcopal and Presbiterian Church. . . . The superb Landscape, however, which is to be seen from the meeting house of the latter is a rich regalia. The Destructive evidences of British cruelty are yet visible both in Norwalk and Fairfield, as there are the chimneys of many burnt houses standing in them yet. The principal export ... is Horses and Cattle . . . salted Beef and Port- Lumber and Indian Corn to the West Indies." The route leaves Norwalk by Westport Ave. and follows the red markers past the peat swamp, where in the early days robbers lurked to rob the mail coaches. Just within the West- port town line, near the Country Club, an old well marks the site 82 NORWALKF AIRFIELD where stood the tavern kept by Major Ozias Marvin, a Revolu- tionary officer. The present house is owned and occupied by his great-great-grandson, John J. Marvin 2d. On Nov. n, 1789, Washington noted in his diary: "lodged at a Maj. Marvin's, 9 miles farther; which is not a good house, though the people of it were disposed to do all they could to accommodate me." The Saugatuck river is navigable for a greater distance than any other stream in Fairfield County, and as there was no fordable place nearer the coast than Westport, the Post Road here runs well inland. The old post road leaves the present road through the village at Nash's Corner, and con- tinues along King's Highway to the upper bridge which spans the Old Ford where the British crossed on their way to sack Danbury in 1777. 46.8 WESTPORT. Pop (twp) 4259. Fairfield Co. Settled 1645. Mfg. cotton twine, buttons, mattresses, starch, and em- balming fluid. This oldtime, thriving village wears an air of quiet leisure and has been chosen as a place of residence by a colony of well- known artists and literary folk. The old farms in the sur- rounding country are rapidly becoming country homes of taste and culture. The former sea trade ceased with the War of 1812, from which time date its cotton and hat industries. In 1805 John Scribner here set up the first carding machine operated in America. Opposite Ludlow Road stands the Stringham House, one of the oldest and the most charming houses of Westport. Fol- lowing the Washington route arrows, we come to the ivy- covered Trinity Church. To the left is the simple and unique Colonial house of Ebenezer Jesup, one of the men who en- gaged in sea trade prior to 1812. The Jesup-Sherwood Me- morial Library is the gift of the late Morris K. Jesup, the patron of natural history and numerous geographical expedi- tions, as a memorial to his two grandfathers. At Compo St., opposite the Westport Sanitarium, stands a granite boulder marking the site of the first skirmish between the English and the Colonists after Tryon landed his forces. A bronze statue of the Minute Man, the work of the sculptor Daniel Webster, marks the place where the Colonists lay in wait for the English on their return from Danbury, and the guns at the point on the beach mark the British place of land- ing. The bathing pavilion, owned by the town, is the center of amusement and town pride. Along the shore roads, as on Compo St., are beautiful gardens, and notably the estates of Mr. Lewis, Mr. Schleat, and the perfect example of formal Colonial architecture owned by Mr. William P. Eno. Here R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 83 also are the Bedford estates. Across the broad lawns before Mrs. Bedford's mansion are elaborate sunken gardens. From Westport the route continues inland. On the left is the tapering spire of the old colonial Congregational Church at Green's Farms, a village which bears the name of one of the first settlers. Across Sasco Brook, the boundary between Westport and Southport, to the right, opposite the Pequot Poultry Farm, stands a granite monument backed by willows, commemorating the great swamp fight of 1637 in which the remnant of the Pequots who had fled from Mystic were sur- rounded by Captain John Mason and his men in what he calls a "hideous swamp," since drained. Twenty were killed, but one hundred and eighty, mostly women and children, were captured and divided between the Massachusetts and Con- necticut men as slaves, many being sold in the West Indies. "Here on this field the dusky savage felt The iron heel of Angle and of Celt; For English Mason and Irish Patrick came, And made the Pequot nothing but a name." SOUTHPORT (51.0) is the business center and most settled portion of the town of Fairfield. Sasco Hill, named from the Indian Sasqua, overlooks the harbor. The Pequot Library on the Marquand estate, the gift of Mrs. Elbert Munroe, is par- ticularly rich in rare Americana. The Wakeman Memorial, endowed by Miss Frances Wakeman, is a handsome building with quarters for several boys' and girls' clubs. 52.5 FAIRFIELD. Pop (twp) 6134. County-seat of Fairfield Co. Settled 1639. Indian name Uncoa. Mfg. chemicals, wire, rubber goods, aluminum, automobile lamps, and flat silver and tin ware. Fairfield, named from its fair fields, in Colonial times one of the four largest towns in Connecticut, is today a beautiful residential town. In the village and on the hills are many handsome and elaborate estates of wealthy New York families. Near the station the route turns to the right, passing the Memorial Library and a stone fountain. Just north of the station is the old barrel-roofed stone powder house. Beyond the Library is a stone set by "David Barlow, cidevant, farmer, 1791." In front of the Town Hall stands a boulder with a bronze tablet recording Tryon's Raid, July 7, 1779, when the Hessian Yagers returning from the pillage of New Haven burned two hundred houses. "Tryon achieved the deeds malign, Tryon, the name for every sin. Hell's blackest fiends the flame surveyed And smiled to see destruction spread; While Satan, blushing deep, looked on, And infamy disowned her son." FAIRFIELD The Town Green is the center today as in the past. Fronting it stands the old Sun Tavern, where Washington 'baited his horses' and tarried all night Oct. 16, 1789, on his Grand Tour. On the Green itself stands the ancient whipping post, now serving as a bulletin board. The town records show how one and another offender was sentenced to be whipped twenty or thirty lashes, or to be confined in the stocks three hours a day. Unseemly carriage, profanation of the Sabbath, witch work, and unlicensed use of tobacco, as well as other crimes, were expiated. On the west side of the Green was a pond in which Mercy Disbrow and Elizabeth Clausen, reputed witches, were thrust to determine whether or not they were daughters of Belial. The records tell us "that they buoyed up like a cork," positive evi- dence to the onlookers that they had sold themselves to the devil. THE HISTORIC BURR MANSION, FAIRFIELD Benson's Tavern of stage coach days, now a private house, still stands on the main street. This was a favorite stop. The stage changed horses at Stamford but at Fairfield was supper. Famous travelers have sat about its board, Macready, Edwin Booth, and Fanny Kemble. Souvenirs of distinguished men decorate the walls of the dining room and in the living room is Peter Parley's chair. The ivy-mantled, gothic St. Paul's Church now stands where the gaol stood until the burning of the town. The Norman Church opposite is on the site of the original log meeting house of 1640 and five successive edifices. Southeast of the Green on the road to the beach lies the ancient God's-Acre, entered by a beautiful stone lich-gate. The oldest stone bears the date of 1687. The Silliman monu- R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 85 ment commemorates the distinguished family which in suc- cessive generations gave many sons to public and university life. Here, too, are buried members of the Burr family. The present fine old Burr mansion on the main street is the successor of the one burned by the drunken troops in spite of Tryon's written protection in the Sack of 1779. The present homestead, by John Hancock's request, was patterned some- what on the Hancock mansion at Boston, since torn down. In Colonial days the Burr family was most notable in these parts. The Burr mansion in its palmy days was the center of hospitality and about it cluster the local traditions. It was built about 1700 by Chief Justice Peter Burr, one of the earliest graduates of Harvard, and stood somewhat back from the village main street under a canopy of elms, a manorial structure. Its oldfashioned garden with an ancient arbor-vitae hedge, dates to Colonial days. Washington, Franklin, Lafayette, John and Samuel Adams, and Dr. Dwight were frequent guests, and here Trumbull and Copley painted full length portraits, still preserved, of their host and hostess. After the Battle of Lexington in June, 1775, Governor John Hancock, fleeing from British justice, followed his affianced bride, Dorothy Quincy, the celebrated belle of Boston, who sought refuge in the house of Thaddeus Burr. The gossips say that while John was in Philadelphia attending the Continental Congress, Aaron Burr, a handsome youth of twenty, came to visit his cousin Thaddeus. There at once began a flirtation which greatly disturbed Hancock's peace of mind, as his letters plainly show. But for the intervention of Aunt Lydia Hancock it might have resulted disastrously, but Aaron was packed off to Litchfield to enter the law school of Judge Reeve (R. 6). John and Dorothy were later married here in the old house. On the Post Road is the Sherman House, the spacious resi- dence of Judge Roger M. Sherman, nephew of the Roger who signed the Declaration of Independence. He willed it to the Prime Ancient Society for a parsonage. It is known as The House of Sixty Closets, the title given a story about the por- traits of the Judge and his wife which still hang in the east drawing room. Today it is the home of the Rev. Frank S. Child, the loyal historian of the countryside. There are many fine old estates in Fairfield and the neighbor- hood. Mailands, situated on Osborn Hill, an old signal sta- tion of the Indians, is the extensive country seat of Mr. Oliver G. Jennings. Verna Farm is the country place of Hon. Lloyd C. Griscom, former Ambassador to Italy. Round Hill, another Indian signal station, is a commanding eminence belonging to Mr. Frederick Sturges. Sunnie Holme is the country estate of Miss Annie B. Jennings, and has gardens that are among the most beautiful and elaborate in the State. The house of Hermann Hagedorn, a poet and dramatist taking honorable place among the younger writers, is at Sunny top Farm, a hill not far distant from the place where the first President Dwight wrote poetry, cultivated strawberries, and conducted his re- 86 F AIRFIELD BRIDGEPORT markable school. Waldstein is the home of Mrs. Mabel Os- good Wright, President of the State Audubon Society, and author of numerous works of fiction and books on nature. A generous friend has recently given to the State Audubon Society a Bird Sanctuary, some fifteen acres of diversified, well-wooded park land situated on the edge of the village, commanding a fine view of the Sound. Near the entrance is the rustic cottage of the curator and opposite is the quaint museum filled with several hundred specimens of our native birds. The Fairfield Historical Society has an interesting collection of antiquities and rare books in its hall. It has published some fifteen brochures on local history. Fairfield Beach, extending for three miles, is one of the most attractive along this coast. Near the beach is the Fairfield Fresh Air Home, which cares for more than one hundred and twenty-five city children each summer season. Here, too, is the Gould Vacation Home for self-supporting women, a beauti- ful Colonial estate endowed by the Gould sisters. Grover's Hill projects boldly into the sea on the east of Ash Creek. This was the site of a fort in Revolutionary times; today it is a private estate, Shoonhoven Park, containing some of the finest country residences in Connecticut. Ash Creek in Colo- nial days had several tide mills upon it. Here it was the British landed the night they captured General Silliman, whose house was on Holland Hill. To the east is Black Rock Harbor. In 1777 nine Tories crossed the Sound by boat and captured the Continental General Silliman and his son, who was then quartered in his own house, and took them to Oyster Bay. In retaliation a few months later a band of twenty-five Southport men crossed to Oyster Bay and seized the Tory Judge Jones and a young man named Hewlett, while a dance was going on in the Judge's house, and brought them back as prisoners, where Mrs. Silliman entertained them. Later the four prisoners were exchanged. In the suburbs of Bridgeport on Fairfield Ave. at the corner of Brewster St. is a milestone inscribed "XXM to NH," which being interpreted indicates that it is twenty miles to New Haven. Just beyond is the Protestant Orphan Asylum and the Bur- roughs Home for Widows. Where the road passes under the railway occurred the wreck of the Federal Express, fourteen killed and forty injured, July n, 1911. In the short stretch of track between here and North Haven the New Haven Road has succeeded in wrecking five trains in five years, with a loss of fifty-seven lives and two hundred injured. Passing under the railway we come to the winter quarters of the Barnum and Bailey circus, now owned by the Ringling Brothers, which occupy several acres. The winter quarters of Buffalo Bill's Wild West Show were formerly somewhere R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 87 within the city limits. The old house of P. T. Barnum, America's greatest showman, is almost opposite Clinton Ave. In front of the house stands a statue of a sea god. Barnum made his great hit in 1849 when he paid $150,000 to Jenny Lind for 150 concerts, a figure that was something stupendous for the time. Another of his stars, General Tom Thumb, was born in Bridge- port in 1832 and weighed nine pounds at birth, but after his seventh month he ceased to jjrow, and remained through life but twenty-eight inches high. In 1863 he married Miss Lavinia Warren of Middleboro, Massachusetts, who, like himself, was a dwarf (R. 31). Barnum starred General and Mrs. Tom Thumb through Europe, where they were re- ceived by "all the crowned heads." One of the Ringlings married a daughter of Barnum and inherited the circus business. Barnum was a great benefactor of Bridgeport and through the city we find evidence of it, Barnum Public School, the Barnum Building, and Barnum Ave., so that Bridgeport is a sort of Barnum Museum itself. Barnum Institute is the head- quarters of the Historical and Scientific Society, contains col- lections, and is used for lectures. But his greatest gift was Seaside Park, a beautiful tract on the shore, in which there is, properly enough, a statue of the great circus man himself. At the corner of Park Ave. opposite St. John's Episcopal Church is a beautiful memorial fountain to Nathaniel Wheeler, the originator of the Wheeler & Wilson Sewing Machine. 57.0 BRIDGEPORT. Pop 102,054 (1910); more than one third for- eign-born, Irish, Hungarian, German, English. One of the County-seats of Fairfield Co. Settled 1659. Indian name Pequonnock. Port of entry. Mfg. firearms, munitions, sub- marines, machine shop products, general hardware, corsets, graphophones, electric fixtures, brass and bronze goods, sewing machines, automobiles, and typewriters. Value of Product (1909), $28,909,000; 1915, ??? Steamboat daily for New York, and ferry to Port Jefferson, L.I. Bridgeport today brings to mind war, munitions, shells, rifles, and an ever-increasing number of Bridgeport million- aires, who will take the shine all off Pittsburgh. Bridgeport has gone sky-high on war orders. In November, 1915, it was reported that Bridgeport had $200,000,000 of war orders, with 25,000 operatives at work making munitions. In six months the population is said to have increased from 102,000 to 150,000. The Remington Arms-Union Metallic Cartridge Company in the latter part of 1915 erected a mile and a quarter of new factory buildings; and 1200 buildings for two, four, and six families, at a cost of $8,000,000. The Lake Torpedo Boat Company at the same time was expanding and to get space dredged the channel of Johnsons Creek for the length of 1000 feet and width of 200 feet and filled in the marsh for building sites. All the factories were running twenty-four hours on eight-hour shifts, for the strikes of the operatives had BRIDGEPORT STRATFORD won them the eight-hour day. Even the corset factories were running over time to supply the domestic trade, for the supply from France had been cut off. The city fathers were worried at providing for this rapid growth. A new city plan had just been developed, but the rapid and unexpected development of the northeastern part of the city had put the carefully devised plan of John Nolen all out of key. Before the world went insane, Bridgeport was a manufactur- ing city of great promise, with rather more than the usual Con- necticut variety of industries. It had already justified the title of 'The Industrial Capital of Connecticut,' now it claims to be 'The Essen of America.' How much of the mushroom growth of 1915 will prove to be permanent and beneficial remains to be seen. Bridgeport is a port of entry with a daily steamboat line to New York, as well as a good coasting trade. The harbor is formed by the estuary of the Pequonnock river and the inlet of Yellow Mill Pond. Between these lies the peninsula of East Bridgeport, the site of many factories. The manufacturing belt also extends westward along the railroad, behind which are, successively, the wholesale, the retail, and the residential districts of the city. Old Mill Green, once the village center, is two miles up the river, east of the ford where the Post Road used to cross. It is a widened section of the Post Road, Boston Ave., at East Main St. At its eastern end is the immense Remington Arms plant. Near here are a few relics of the old hamlet of pre- Revolutionary days. In the park is one of the milestones which marked the King's Highway of 1687, the Old Post Road, now North and Boston Aves., which was laid out on the line of the old Indian trail. At the corner of East Main St. and Boston Ave. there is found still standing an old house built in 1700 by William Pixley. Six generations of the name occupied the house which was Harpin's Tavern and about 1840 became the residence of Rev. William Silliman. 'The Park City' is Bridgeport's middle name. It is a center for athletic and outdoor organizations; among these are the Bridgeport Yacht Club, overlooking Black Rock Harbor; the Park City Yacht Club, on Yellow Mill Harbor; the Roof tree Club, at Lordship Manor; the Sea Side Club; the Brooklawn Country Club; there is also an eighteen-hole golf course at Beardsley Park, north of the city. Seaside Park, to the west of the harbor entrance, contains several monuments and is bordered by some of the city's handsomest residences. When the first settlers came here the Peguesset Indians of this locality had a village of more than a hundred wigwams on Golden Hill, which is now the best residential section of Bridgeport. In 1685 portions of R. i I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 89 the towns of Fairfield and Stratford, on either side of the Pequonnock river, were united to form a new community. In 1694 the little settlement was known as Stratfield, the combination of Stratford and Fairfield, portions of which were separated to form the new town. During the Revolutionary period, Bridgeport, like its neighbor New Haven, was a privateering center. Modern Bridgeport dates its career from the bridging of the Pequon- nock river in 1798. The Post Office was immediately opened and the mail from New York was brought in the four-horse coach which arrived at the close of the day when it set out from New York. In 1790 it had a population of one hundred and ten. The industries of Bridgeport began with the Salt Works in 1800, and after the opening of 'the railroad in 1849 its growth as an industrial center was rapid. The sewing machine factories of Elias Howe and of Wheeler and Wilson were among the first manufacturing plants opened here, the former dating from 1863. This still continues to be one of the principal industries of Bridgeport, and today the Singer Company has one of its great plants here. In the manufacture of corsets Bridgeport leads the country, more than 10,000 dozen a week being made by Warner Brothers alone. The Lake Torpedo Boat Company and the Remington Arms-Union Metallic Cartridge Com- pany are the leading war babies. Locomobiles, Columbia Grapho- phones, Ives mechanical toys, and the electrical specialties of the Bryant and the Harvey Hubbell Companies are other interesting products. Automobile specialties are turned out in great variety by several factories. This is the home of the Weed Anti-Skids and the Raybestos brake-linings. The oyster industry of Bridgeport is represented by three of the largest propagators and growers in the world. The steady growth of the industry dates from half a century ago when oysters were first planted in the Gut outside Bridgeport Harbor. Connecticut was one of the first States to encourage the cultivation of oysters through private ownership of the grounds; property in these underwater flats is recorded and taxes levied as with dry land real estate. Along this coast are natural oyster beds which have been extended by planting. In 1902, 70,000 acres were under cultivation, 65,000 of which were privately planted and 5000 natural beds. Large fleets of boats are kept busy working and watching the grounds, and contribute greatly to the life and importance of Bridgeport Harbor. In the Bridgeport and Stratford 'setting grounds' the 'spat,' or free-swimming young oysters, which come largely from Chesapeake Bay, are planted on the flats previously strewn with oyster shells to which they become attached, or 'set.' In about two years they have grown to market size. They are then placed in brackish water to bleach and bloat to satisfy the depraved taste of most consumers, who don't know the joy of 'eating 'em alive.' 60.5 STRATFORD. Pop 5712. Fairfield Co. Settled 1639. Indian name Cupheag. This quiet country village at the mouth of the Housatonic river is in striking contrast to its busy neighbor, Bridgeport. Its name was bestowed upon it by emigrants from Shake- speare's birthplace. Many of the houses and magnificent elms antedate the Revolution. The Blakeman Memorial Library, as the tablet states, com- memorates Rev. Adam Blakeman and Deacon John Birdseye, who established the first settlement. The Weatoque Country 90 STRATFORD MILFORD Club, a recent organization with a fine new club house, offers the usual non-resident short term membership to visitors. There is a nine-hole golf course, tennis, etc. The Housatonic and the Pootatuc Yacht Clubs also add to Stratford's gayety. Inland on the rising ground of Putney Heights and Oronoque, and also on Stratford Point, which extends into the Sound, are summer homes of people both of moderate resources and of extreme wealth. There are pleasant drives up the Housatonic and into the hinterland beyond the Oronoque. In 1651 the witch epidemic reached here with the result that poor Goody Basset was hanged. Dr. Samuel Johnson, namesake of his celebrated uncle, was the first Episcopal rector here, from 1723 until i754> when he resigned to become the first President of King's, now Columbia, College. He lies buried here at Christ Church. During the Revolution the church was closed, as the minister insisted on reading the usual prayer for the king after the Battle of Lexington and dismissed his flock when they protested. Two of the most famous post riders were Stratford men, Andrew, who died at the age of 89, and Ebenezer Hurd, who for fifty-six years before the Revolution rode fortnightly from New York to Saybrook, never missing a trip. Between Stratford and Milford are several little inns scattered along the road. The milestones were set by order of Postmaster-general Benjamin Franklin. Close to Milford, on the left of the road, is a large rock, on which is incised the word "Liberty," and the date, "1766." This was done by Peter Pierrott, a Huguenot inhabitant of the town. The boulder was popularly known as 'Hog Rock,' from the gircum- stances narrated in the following lines from an old ditty: "Once four young men upon ye rock Sate down at shuffle board one daye; When ye Deuill appearde in shape of a hogg, And frightened ym so they scampered awaye And left Olde Nick to finish ye playe." 65.0 MILFORD. Pop (twp) 4366 (summer 13,000). New Haven Co. Settled 1639. Indian name Wopowage. Mfg. straw hats, vacuum cleaners, gas meters, car trimmings, and auto windshields; oysters and garden seeds. The long elm-shaded Green bordering on the Post Road for half a mile, the Colonial meeting houses with old homesteads clustered about, and the mossy stone dam of the mill pond render Milford inimitably quaint. The name is derived from the town in England whence the early settlers came, and also from the ford across the Wepawaug where the first grist mill in the New Haven Colony, erected in 1639, was operated for more than 250 years. The first bridge was built in 1640 on the site of the stone Memorial Bridge with the tower, built in 1889 to commemorate the town's 25oth anniversary. It is a, counterpart of one in Milford, England. The knocker on the tower door is from the house on whose porch, in 1770, George Whitefield preached; and the tablet at the foot of the tower is in memory of Governor R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 91 Robert Treat. The present mill at the end of the bridge, built to honor the 275th anniversary, in 1914, is on the site of the orig- inal Fowler's Mill established in 1639, and the millstone by it is reputed to be the first used there, roughly dressed by the miller to serve until another came from England. The old homestead on the island by the mill, until recently in possession of a descendant of the first miller, William Fowler, is now owned by Simon Lake. The first tavern, built here in 1644, is still standing on the Old Post Road just west of the First Church. In 1789 Wash- ington stopped here and wrote in his diary: " From the Housatonic ferry it is about 3 miles to Milford. . . . In this place there is but one Church, or in other words, but one steeple but there are Grist and Saw Mills, and a hand- some Cascade over the Tumbling dam." A little way down Wharf St. to the right is the Stephen Stow House, built about 1670 by Major Samuel Eells. In 1777 the Stows cared for 250 sick American soldiers who were brought from a British prison ship in New York Harbor and suddenly cast upon the Milford shore. In spite of watchful nursing forty-six of the unfortunates died, as well as Mr. Stow, and were buried in a common grave in the old grave- yard, where a shaft of Portland freestone commemorates them. Pond House, erected by George Clark, the first to be built outside the Palisades and dating from 1700, is on the Bridgeport Turnpike. Simon Lake, the inventor of the even keel submersible sub- marine, lives at Milford. His "Argonaut," built in 1897, was the first craft of this kind to navigate the open sea success- fully. He has been retained by the governments of England, Germany, and Russia to design and supervise the construc- tion of many submarines, and is a member of many foreign societies of naval architects as well as of American naval associations. A considerable number of the U.S. submarines have been built by him at his works in Bridgeport. Wilcox Park, formerly known as Harbor Woods, is a part of the large Indian grant containing some of the springs which the red men valued so highly. At the harbor mouth is Fort Trumbull Beach where for- merly stood an earthwork of the Revolutionary period. On its site is The Elms, the residence of Thomas J. Falls. On the westerly side of the harbor is the Milford Yacht Club House. The shipbuilding industry flourished until the harbor silted up in the beginning of the last century. The oyster beds have afforded a profitable business since 1752, and the Sealshipt Oyster Company, which has wharves and packing house here, 92 MILFORD is reputed a profitable stock selling scheme. The eighteen miles of shore is a succession of beaches and popular summer resorts. Half a mile off shore is Charles Island, where that most noted of buccaneers, Captain Kidd, is reported to have buried at least part of his treasure. As it is readily accessible at low tide by means of a sand bar, hosts of people spend a holiday on the island, some digging vainly for pieces of eight, but most of them more joyously engaged. The settlers of Milford came from New Haven in 1639 by the In- dian trails, driving their cattle before them, while their other posses- sions were carried around by boat. The land was purchased from the Indians for the customary barter of coats, blankets, hatchets, hoes, knives, mirrors, and a kettle, in return for which the Indians gave the English a turf and a twig, seizin in token of the surrender of the soil and all that grew thereon. The settlers built a community house facing the Green, where they all dwelt for a time. Their earliest records of 1640 contain the fol- lowing resolutions, put forth with Puritan seriousness, unconscious of their sublime egotism: "Voted, That the earth is the Lord's, and the fulness thereof. Voted, That the earth is given to the saints. Voted, That we are the saints." There was Puritan seriousness, too, in their observance of the law. In 1649 Mr. Birdseye was discovered in the shameful act of kissing his wife on Sunday, which was in violation of the law. He was tried on Monday and sentenced to the whipping post. But he escaped from the town officers, ran to the Housatonic, swam across, and from the Stratford side shook his fists at his pursuers. His wife followed later, and they lived ever after in Stratford, where they begot numerous descendants. Goffe and Whalley, the regicides, were concealed at Milford at two separate times. They were two of the judges who signed the death warrant of Charles I and both were related to Cromwell, in whose army they had held important positions. In 1660, after the restoration of the House of Stuart to the English throne, they fled to Boston and thence to New Haven, whither they were pursued by the royal messengers. Thanks to the sympathy of the Deputy-governor Leete and the New Haven magistrates, they were concealed in the old mill at Milford for two days until a place, now known as the Judges' Cave, was prepared for them at West Rock, where they remained three months (p 93). As winter approached they were again taken to Milford and lived two years in secrecy in a cellar, dug out of a solid rock, of the Tompkins House, which formerly stood on the southeast corner of the Central School grounds. The house still exists but has been moved from its former site (see Hadley). The mills of Milford in Colonial times were of considerable im- portance; there were three mill dams which supplied valuable power. The town owned large flocks of sheep and for nearly a century paid part of their expenses with the profits. Milford also carried on coast trade and commerce until 1821. Straw hats, oysters, gas meters, vacuum cleaners, hardware, and seeds are Milford's products today. Recently it has become the distributing center for the Gulf Refining Company. Note. On leaving Milford the road straight ahead at the end of the Park leads to New Haven along the shore via R. I i. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 93 Woodmont and Savin Rock, the latter a summer amusement park with a White City. Continuing on New Haven Ave., over the Memorial Bridge we turn into Gulf St. South, skirt- ing the shore, where there is an excellent view of the bay and Charles Island. The residence of Mr. Clark Wilcox is at the left, and The Piers, the residence of Mr. Nicholas Pond, is in front. Turning east over a fair country road the route enters Bay View, where is Schermerhorn House, a fresh-air resort maintained by Trinity Church of New York. At the sign- board " Morningside " the road turns sharp right and follows the shore along Far View Beach, Bruwell's Beach, Debonair Beach, to Merrimans, passing on the right the beautiful Italian villa of Mr. Poli and a succession of cottages, and continues through Woodmont and Savin Rock. The direct route to New Haven via the State Road turns left at the end of the Park in Milford with red markers through the township of Orange, this portion of which is known as West Haven. West Rock soon comes in sight, which, like East Rock, on the other side of New Haven, is a conspicuous landmark for miles along the coast. The summits of both of these rocks have been made into parks. Both East and West Rocks are abrupt cliff-like terminations of lava sheets, which in the case of West Rock continues northward as a long ridge. Adriaen Block, the Dutch navigator, sailing along this coast from New Amsterdam in 1614, first noted these landmarks, and be- cause of their reddish appearance he named the place Rodenberg, or Red Hill. These lava sheets are intrusive; that is, as molten lava they flowed in between layers of sandstone when at a depth below the surface (p 24). Inspection of the West Rock cliff above and below shows, in places, the hard baked sandstone indurated by the great heat. The trap of these rocks is very dense, of the kind known to petrographers as dolorite. Its thickness is about 200 ft. On the face of the cliff the columnar structure is plainly visible, due to the contraction of the central portions of the lava sheet after the upper and lower portions had solidified. West Rock (405 ft) affords a fine view of the Sound and the country to the west of New Haven. Here is the so-called 'Judges' Cave,' a cluster of rocks in which Goffe and Whalley were concealed in 1661. The most direct road to the Judges' Cave lies from the center of the city by Whalley Ave. to West- ville, thence past Springside Home to the Park. Whalley Ave., Dixwell Ave., and Goffe St., all leading from Broadway toward West Rock and the Judges' Cave, are named after the three regicides. An excellent road with a gentle slope winds through the Park to the cave and precipice. On the face of one of the great boulders forming the cave is a bronze tablet bearing the inscription: 94 MILFORD NEW HAVEN "Here May 15, 1661, and for some weeks thereafter Edward Whalley and his son-in-law, William Goffe, members of Parliament, General officers in the army of the Commonwealth and signers of the death warrant of King Charles I, found shelter and concealment from the officers of the Crown after the restoration. "Opposition to tyrants is obedience to God." Marvelwood, south of West Rock, is a fine wooded estate of 600 acres belonging to Mr. J. M. Griest. The group of hem- locks to the left of the house were set out by Donald G. Mitchell, known to the world as ' Ik Marvel,' the gentle author of "Dream Life" and "Reveries of a Bachelor." His residence, Edge- wood, is not far away, on Forest St., Westville. Edgewood Park, at the end of Edgewood Ave., is a pleasant spot between West Rock and Yale Athletic Field, with elaborate gardens. Nearer New Haven, on the left, is Yale Athletic Field, the huge Yale Bowl, with a seating capacity for 67,000 spectators. Its external appearance is not so impressive as would be ex- pected from these figures, owing to its being excavated from or half sunk in the ground. The true size is only apparent when it is seen from within. Yale had the Bowl ready for the dedi- cation in November, 1914, when Harvard supplied 'punch' (Score 36-0). On October 21 an historical pageant will be held here to celebrate the 2ooth anniversary of the coming of Yale to New Haven. We enter New Haven by way of Davenport and College Sts. At the corner of the Green stands the Hotel Taft oppo- site the entrance to Yale College Grounds. 74.5 NEW HAVEN. Pop 133,605 (1910); one fourth foreign-born, Irish, Italian, German, Russian, Swede. County-seat of New Haven Co. Settled 1638. Indian name Quinnipiac. Port of Entry. Seat of Yale University. 800 manufacturing es- tablishments: Value of Product, $51,000,000; Payroll, $16,000,000. Mfg. firearms and ammunition, rubber goods, hardware, clocks, plumbers' supplies, tooth paste, corsets, underwear, automobile bodies and carriages, auto specialties, machine shop products, wire, etc. Steamships to New York; ferry to Port Jefferson, L.I. New Haven, the seat of Yale University and a great indus- trial center, second only to Bridgeport in the value of its factory products, has long been the principal city of Connecti- cut, though Hartford rivals it closely in population and Bridgeport with its recent mushroom growth has perhaps surpassed it. It is built on a level sandy plain between East Rock and West Rock, which stand up like sentinels on either side, giving a setting unique among American cities. The city lies about four miles from the Sound, and its harbor has a twenty-foot channel with considerable coastwise com- merce. The head offices of the New Haven railroad are lo- cated here, six divisions of which radiate north, east, and west. R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 95 The city centers at the Green, altogether its most striking and interesting physical feature. Aside from Boston Common it presents the most characteristic New England scene to be found in any large city. The Green is a sixteen-acre square, around which was the original settlement. Until recently it was shaded by such magnificent elms as gave New Haven the name of 'The Elm City.' The elms have now largely disap- peared, killed by elm-leaf beetles and neglect. On the Green stand the three oldest churches of the community, built about one hundred years ago, interesting types of New England meeting house architecture. Here on a Sunday morning the gathering of the people to the three churches while the bells are 'ringing them in' still presents the oldtime New Eng- land scene. The pulpits of two of these churches have since Colonial times been influential in religious thought in New England. The streets of the original city immediately sur- rounding the Green are laid out in squares, and from this central portion 'radiate the streets to the outlying districts. West of the Green are the principal buildings of Yale Uni- versity. South and east are the more important civic build- ings and the business district. The Green has been the historical center of New Haven's life and history, the heart of New Haven, for nearly 300 years. As soon as the forest was cleared, the punishment of offenders was attended to. With Puritan conscientiousness and rigor the whipping post and the stocks, the jail and the court house were first built. The year after their landing the first meeting house was erected, where the flagpole now stands, and then the school house. Planned as a market place the Green was for 200 years used as a Common for pasturing cattle. ' With the first enthusiastic flush of the Revolution the Liberty Pole was set up here in 1774, and when the news of Lexington arrived Benedict Arnold, a druggist of the town, drew up his little army and demanded of the Royal authorities the keys of the powder house. Here Washington on his way to take command of the Continental Army at Cambridge reviewed the patriotic company of Yale students, and Lafayette reviewed the State Militia. The three churches, the United, Center, and Trinity, now standing on the Green were erected in the year 1814. The Center Church, modeled after St. Martins-in-the-Fields in London, was erected on the site of the burial ground. In the crypt beneath (open to the public on Saturday afternoons and at other times by applying to the sexton) are 140 tombstones dated before 1797. The other tomb- stones were removed to Grove Street Cemetery. Just back of Center Church is a monument to John Dixwell, the regicide, who for many years lived in New Haven and was buried on the Green. At the southeast corner of the Green is the Bennett Fountain, designed after the monument of Lysicrates at Athens. In the northwest part of the Green opposite the present Phelps Gateway and between Center and Trinity Churches stood until 1889 the State House, a Greek-temple-like structure erected in 1763, which shared with Hartford for more than a hundred years the primacy of the State. "It was standing when I was in college and makes the background for the first picture of my class," says Ex-president Taft. NEW HAVEN To the south of the Green on Church St. is the new million- dollar Federal Building of classic architecture. At the north- east corner of Elm and Church Sts. is the new Court House, another example of a Roman temple. On Church St., on the way up from the railway station, we pass the Connecticut Savings Institution, still a third modern Roman temple. The first impression the visitor today gets of New Haven is that the gods have showered temples, gleaming white and brand- new, upon this ancient academic and industrial city. They are, however, excellent examples of their type. 1 Trinity Ch. 2 Center " ^ United " 4 Federal Bldg. 5 Court Ho. 6 Pierpont Ho. 7 Ives Libra ry 8 Hist. Soc. 9 Grove St. Cem. 10 Battle site 11 Trowbridge Ho. 12 Pierson-Sage Sq. 13 Yale Campus 14 R.R. Station North of the Green the most prominent building is the new Ives Memorial Library, a distinguished example of modern Colonial architecture. It is the design of Mr. Cass Gilbert, and the gift of Mrs. Mary Ives. On Elm St. facing the Green is the Pierpont House, 1764, used as a British hospital in 1779. Now the home of the Rev. Anson Phelps Stokes, Secretary of Yale, it is filled with Yale memorabilia and rare prints. Just to the east is the Jarvis House of 1767. The house of the Rev. James Pierpont, a founder of Yale, is now occupied by The Graduate Club of Yale. The Jones House, 37 Elm St., was built in 1755 on the site of the original house of Theophilus Eaton. The Tory Tavern, 87 Elm St., has recently been pur- chased by the Elihu Club. R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 97 In the old cemetery on Grove St. are buried Roger Sherman, signer of the Declaration of Independence; Lyman Beecher, theologian and preacher; Noah Webster, compiler of the dictionary; Charles Goodyear, inventor of vulcanized rubber; Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin; and many other men of prominence. Whitney first came to New Haven in 1789 and took his degree at Yale in 1792. In 1793 he hit upon the cotton gin idea while practicing law in Savannah. Losing money in his endeavor to prevent infringements of his patent he returned to New Haven in 1798 and took up the firearms manufacture. The Eli Whitney homestead, on Huntington St., near Whitney Ave., is now the Agricultural Experiment Station. The New Haven Colony Historical Society Building, on Grove St., at the foot of Hillhouse Ave., contains interesting relics of Colonial days. Here are preserved Benjamin Franklin's Ley- den jars, the table on which Noah Webster wrote his diction- ary, a silver spoon that belonged to Commodore Isaac Hull, Benedict Arnold's account book, medicine chest, mortar and pestle, and the sign "B. Arnold Druggist / Book-Seller &c / From London / Sibi Totique." The Benedict Arnold house was on Water St. Webster began his dictionary there, but later moved to the Trowbridge house, the oldest in the town (1642), on the corner of Grove and Temple Sts. Hillhouse Avenue leads to the most desired residential quarter, and the Hillhouse family mansion. The Avenue was laid out by James Hillhouse, a wealthy merchant and U.S. Senator, who when Roger Sherman was Mayor in 1784 insti- tuted many civic improvements. Resembling an Indian he was popularly known as 'The Sachem,' which sobriquet is pre- served in Sachem St. and the former Sachem Woods, now Pierson-Sage Square, occupied by the Sloan and the Osborn laboratories of the university. The streets were then given their present names, and the elms which have given the city its second name were then planted. In the summer of 1637 there arrived in Boston a company of about 250 men, women, and children, who had been recruited in England by Theophilus Eaton and the Rev. John Davenport for the purpose of founding a Puritan settlement in America. Eaton and Davenport had been schoolmates. Eaton had become wealthy trading with the Baltic countries. As the pressure on the Puritans in England in- creased they conspired to leave England unbeknownst, for Eaton was rich and his goods would surely have been confiscated had the plan been suspected. In Boston inducements were held out by the local real estate magnates of the time, as they would be today, but Eaton there heard of a fair region of Quinnipiac which Boston men had hit upon in their pursuit of the Pequots. In the spring of 1638 the whole party, joined by some Boston recruits, sailed around the Cape, and on a Friday in April their craft was moored by the shore. Saturday they landed and made ready for the Sabbath rest. A tablet now marks the 98 NEW HAVEN spot where the party landed. On their first Sunday Davenport preached on "Temptations of the Wilderness" beneath an oak tree which stood at what is now the corner of College and George Sts., where later Lyman Beecher's father, a descendant of one of the first settlers, opened his blacksmith shop. The old Lyman Beecher House, 261 George St., was built in 1764. The town was laid out in nine equal quadrilaterals with a central open square for a market by John Brockett, a young surveyor whose love of a Puritan maiden had led him to cross the seas. The dwellings ranged from mere huts to grand mansions, as befitted the varying rank and wealth of the newcomers. Eaton's house was a huge one with nineteen fireplaces, furnished with carved tables and ' Turkey ' carpets, altogether more luxurious than we usually picture the habitations of these first settlers. Eaton thriftily bought of the Indians the land now covered by New Haven and the surrounding towns for "one dozen coats, one dozen spoons, one dozen hoes, one dozen hatchets, one dozen porengers, two dozen knives, and four cases of French knives and scissors." The plantation retained its Indian name, Quinnipiac, until 1640, when the present name was adopted. The government had nothing of democracy to hamper its efficiency. It was a veritable ecclesiastical hierarchy whose rigor is today com- memorated in the legend of the Blue Laws (see Hartford, R. i) and whose first act was to erect the instruments of punishment on the Green. "The wprde of God was adopted as the onely rule to be attended unto in ordering the affayres of government in this plantation." Character- istic of Puritan inflexibility and sternness was the magistrate, Richard Malbon, who sat at the trial of his daughter, Martha, and condemned her to be flogged at the whipping post, which act was carried out in the market place. Indicative, too, of the stern manner in which justice was dispensed is the story of how one of the settlers having been found murdered in the woods, an Indian was captured; his guilt sufficiently established, he was laid over a log and his head chopped off and placed on a pole in the market place. Eaton was a merchant and his aim was gain. Trade was at once begun with the Barbadoes and trading posts established on the Dela- ware. A ship, richly freighted, dispatched to England, was never heard from, but the legend telling of the specter of the ship sailing into the harbor in the teeth of a gale inspired Whittier's poem. New Haven remained strictly Puritan and at the Restoration its authorities did not hesitate to give aid and comfort to the regicides, Goffe, Whalley, and Dixwell. His Majesty's Governor a little later was treated with contempt by many of the townsfolk, who made a handsome living by smuggling. The evasion of the navigation laws and customs duties was regarded as a virtue rather than a crime. On July 5, 1770, a British force landed at West Haven and at Lighthouse Point. The militia including a company of Yale students fought a pitched battle with them at the corner of Broadway and York St. The British occupied the town, camping on the Green. Dr. Daggett, the President of the College, was taken captive and forced to act as guide. When all but dead from fatigue and repeated bayonet wounds, he was asked, "Will you fight again?" He is said to have answered, "I rather believe I shall if I have an opportunity." When he was forced to pray for the King, it was as follows: "O Lord, bless Thy servant, King George, and grant him wisdom, for Thou knowest, O Lord, he needs it." The intent was to burn the town, but the next day, after destroying much shipping, they re-embarked and went to Fairfield. A monument on Allingtown Heights, southwest of the city, commemorates the humanity of the British commander, Adjutant William Campbell, who protected the helpless and prevented any R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 99 needless destruction, but was shot in the midst of his kindly work. On his monument are the words: "Blessed Are The Merciful." YALE UNIVERSITY is, of course, the chief interest in New Haven both to visitors and residents, for the features of student and academic life add much that is picturesque, spec- tacular, and recreative to the life of the city. Among North American colleges the third in age and second perhaps in standing, she still justifies the title of 'Mother of Colleges.' Yale's conservatism and the growth of other institutions have resulted in her dropping, in the last twenty years, from second place in numbers to twentieth. The University in its various departments enrolls 3300 students. Among her 16,000 living graduates are a former Chief Magistrate, hosts of U.S. Sena- tors and Representatives, many Governors, Mayors, Legisla- tors, and College Presidents in every State in the Union. The claim that she "trains men for public service" is attested by Theodore Roosevelt, a Harvard alumnus, who has said that in every work he ever undertook for civic or legislative better- ment he always found a Yale man shoulder to shoulder with him, ready to do his full share of the work. Yale men claim with justice a more democratic spirit than prevails at Harvard, her older and closest rival. The Yale view of the contrast is well expressed in the following interchange of toasts. Samuel C. Bushnell of Boston, a Yale alumnus, recently wrote: "Here's to the city of Boston, The home of the bean and the cod, Where the Cabots speak only to Lowells, And the Lowells only with God." He sent this to Dean Jones of Yale College, who after con- sulting the Yale motto, "Lux et Veritas," wrote back: "Here's to the town of New Haven, The home of the Truth and the Light, Where God talks to Jones In the very same tones That he uses with Hadley and Dwight." The sixty or more buildings of Yale University lie mostly to the north and west of the Green. Guides may sometimes be found at the Phelps Gateway. Facing the Green, where formerly stood the lamented 'Old Fence' across which for two centuries the College from her bower of trees looked out upon the Green, is now a long row of modern buildings of varied and doubtful architecture, mostly college dormitories. In the center of this long fagade rises the Phelps Gateway. To the right on Elm St. is Battell Chapel. The College Catalog blandly explains that "the privileges of The Church of Christ in Yale University are extended to students," and then goes on to explain that daily attendance at services is required. At the opposite end, on Chapel St., 100 NEW HAVEN is Osborn Hall, a squat rotunda-like affair of brownstone in- tended for lectures. Entering through Phelps Gateway we are on the college Campus, stretching the length of which is the 'New Fence,' where the events of 'Tap Day' center. To the left stands Connecticut Hall, long known as Old South Middle (1750), a plain brick building of beautiful proportions, the only one of the Old Brick Row remaining. At the left of the campus is Vanderbilt Hall, a beneficence of the family, which still retains in it a suite of rooms for their occasional use. At the extreme northwest corner of the campus is the Art School whose galleries contain the Jarves collection of early Italian painting, the most notable collection of Italian primi- tives in this country. In the Trumbull Gallery are over fifty paintings by Trumbull, Connecticut's earliest and most distinguished painter, mostly representing events of the American Revolution. Beneath the building is the artist's tomb with the inscription: "Colonel John Trumbull, Patriot and Artist, Friend and Aid of Washington, lies beside his wife beneath this Gallery of Art. Lebanon (Conn.), i75o-New York, 1843" (adm. free in term; summer, 250.). On the north side of the campus is the old library in the style of King's College Chapel at Oxford, connected with which to the left are later incongruous additions. The ivy here has been planted by the graduating classes, and on Commencement Day the venerable survivors of classes whose ivies were planted fifty years before gather round and sing their Latin ivy odes. On the campus are statues of the first Yale president and other worthies. At the northeast angle of the campus are Dwight Hall, headquarters of the College Y.M.C.A., and Wright Hall, a dormitory. On the opposite corner is the Peabody Museum of Natural History (adm. free daily and Sun. aft.), in which the mineralogical and paleonto- logical collections are especially noteworthy. On the opposite side of Elm St., to the left, is the Gymnasium and swimming pool. To the right on Elm St. is the block of dormitories known as Berkeley Oval, and just beyond the quadrangle of the Divinity School. Still farther along Elm St. beyond the Methodist Church is the Law School, a detached city block seemingly with nothing to lean against. At the corner of College and Grove Sts. are the Bicentennial Buildings, Memorial Hall, containing the Civil War Memorial, to the left of which is Woolsey Hall with a great organ and to the right the great Dining Hall. The buildings of the Sheffield Scientific School are opposite and continue to the east. The great block of buildings facing College and Elm Sts. and enclosing Vanderbilt Square have R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN IOI all been donated by Frederick Vanderbilt. They are of that modification of the French chateau architectural style which has become naturalized along upper Fifth Ave. The corner is occupied by St. Anthony Hall, otherwise known as 'T Company,' a Sheff Greek Letter Fraternity. Behind on either side of Hillhouse Ave. are the more im- portant Laboratory and Lecture Buildings of Sheff. On Hill- house Ave. in the center to the left is the Electrical Engineer- ing Laboratory and opposite the Mason and Mechanical En- gineering Laboratory. A white sandstone building on the left bears on its front the inscription "Leet Oliver Memorial Anno Domini M CM VII." The student whose name is here commemorated some years ago after Commencement Day festivities, as a faculty member tersely expressed it, "ran his motor car off a nearby bridge and broke his neck." His mother gave $350,000 for this building in memoriam. Yale seems to have suffered a number of such misfortunes. The Walter Husted Scholarship commemorates another student who was similarly killed in a motor accident, and the George Benedict Sherman Scholarship was founded by the mother of a student who was killed by falling off West Rock. Yale men are proud of their traditions, by which they seem to mean their ancient ways of doing things. So the Yale "News" and the Yale "Lit" still appear with the artificially florid heading of Victorian time. The student life, especially in the clubs and fraternities, cherishes traditions. A better understanding of Yale may be gained, therefore, by some under- standing of the customs and clubs than by looking at the bare walls of lecture halls and dormitories. The ambition of every Yale man, apart from the making of the athletic teams, is to be taken into one of the three great senior societies. 'Tap Day ' is the most eventful day in the life of the Yale man. At five o'clock on the second Thursday in May the members of the three senior societies who have been in solemn conclave during the afternoon issue one by one solemnly from their 'tombs' and proceed direct to the 'New Fence' on the campus. Here are assembled, lolling about the lawn with suppressed anxiety, all the members of the Junior Class. Now all visitors are excluded, but formerly an assemblage of under- graduates, pretty girls, fathers and mothers looked down from the windows of the dormitories about. One by one each mem- ber of a senior society wends his way through the crowd until he spies the man he is looking for. He brusquely slaps him on the shoulder with a "go to your room," and thus announces to the undergraduate world and admiring friends that this man has made a 'success' of his undergraduate career. 102 NEW HAVEN Each of the senior societies has fifteen members, and each holds weekly meetings on Thursday night. All the societies, both the academic and Sheff, have society houses which are called 'tombs,' usually windowless and wearing an air of mystery. The Sheff fraternities have dormitories or luxurious club houses as well, often named after their patron saint, and vying with each other in the weirdness of their architecture. The Skull and Bones is the oldest and was long the fore- most of the senior societies. The 'Bones Tomb' on High St. is a sepulchral, windowless, ivyclad building with iron doors. 'Bones' men are usually leaders in athletics or re- ligious activities. The Scroll and Keys tomb is at Wall and College Sts. 'Keys' has the reputation of recruiting its men from the wealthy and aristocratic. In recent years it has rather come to supplant 'Bones' in social primacy. Here at 12.30 A.M. every Friday morning on the breakup of the weekly meeting, sleepers in the neighborhood are roused by the lusty singing of the Troubador Song. The Wolf's Head, the third senior society, is socially somewhat like the Pi Eta at Harvard. Its tomb, rather Dutch in architecture, is out on Prospect St., but a new tomb is about to be erected on College St. York Street was formerly the scene of the tumultuous fresh- man sophomore rush which followed the time-honored torchlight procession and the wrestling matches on the campus. This series of events, the night before college opened, was the real Yale 'Commencement' and night of convivial reunion. On York St. is the 'Deke' House, a junior society famous for its singing. At High and Grove Sts., opposite the Egyptian gate- way to the old cemetery, a costly Greek marble temple, its two columns surmounted by Ionic capitals, is the tomb of the Sheff society, The Book and Snake. Its dormitory, The Cloister, a little below and opposite on Grove St. at the corner of Hillhouse Ave., is an attractive brownstone house whose luxurious deep bay-window seats give some suggestion of the strenuous life led by the 'Sheff frat' man. The Colony Club, on Hillhouse Ave., may sound feminine to a New Yorker, but at Yale it indicates a Sheff society with a luxurious Colonial brick dormitory with columned portico. Their tomb, Ber- zelius, is on the corner of Whitney Ave., Trumbull, and Temple Sts. York Hall, on Wall near College Sts., looks like an imitation of the Palace of the Doges, but is really the headquarters of a Sheff society. The Elizabethan Club, on College St. between Elm and Wall, occupies an inconspicuous building. It is unique among R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 103 Yale institutions in that here a taste for literature, art, and afternoon tea may be openly avowed without fear of philistine contempt or charges of priggishness. When Yale began and where is a little difficult to say. The intent was early, for John Davenport, the first minister, believed a college necessary in a State "whose design is religion," and the famous Ezekiel Cheever was early imported from London "for the better training up of youth in this town, that through God's blessing they may be fitted for public service." In 1657 there died in London an Edward Hopkins who had been Governor of Connecticut and amassed a fortune in colonial trade. In his will he left 1400 and a "negar" for the "breading up of hopeful youths in New England." The money was divided between Hadley, Harvard, where it still supports "Deturs," and New Haven, where the Hopkins Grammar School still survives. But for more than half a century New Haven not only sent her future ministers to be trained at Harvard College, but every person "whose hart was willing" contributed a peck of "college corn," sent yearly to Cambridge for their support. In 1700 ten clergymen met at Branford and donated forty books toward the founding of a college that they might "educate ministers in our own way." The next year this Collegiate School was chartered, and the trustees decided to locate it at Saybrook, then a convenient point of access midway on the water route from Hartford to New Haven. Thus it came about that Yale was founded by Connecticut Harvard graduates who wanted a ministerial training establishment nearer home. This is still celebrated in the song: "Old Harvard was old Harvard When Yale was but a pup." In 1702, before the new college had had a student, it celebrated its first Commencement, at which degrees were conferred upon five Harvard graduates. Its first president, Abraham Pierson, was the minister at Killingworth, a few miles away, where the students went for instruc- tion (R. 2). When Pierson died in 1707 the senior class went to Milford to study with the new rector, who was minister there. The students complained of Saybrook as being a dull town, and in 1716 some of them went to Guilford and others to Wethersfield. Of course a college split up in this way was under difficulties and something had to be done. Hartford and New Haven both made bids for the college, but the latter's was the highest, eight acres given by the town and about forty more contributed by individuals. The greatest op- position, however, was raised by the rivals, and when an attempt was made to remove the library from Wethersfield, where it then was, the sheriff had to be called in. After the books were loaded on the carts the wheels were removed, the bridges broken down, and consequently many books were lost. The students at Wethersfield, a " very vicious and tur- bulent set of fellows," set up a rival college, and bad feeling ran high until 1726, when Mr. Williams of the Wethersfield college was elected president of the New Haven institution, thus uniting their fortunes. Elihu Yale, a man of great wealth in London, was through the in- fluence of Mr. Dummer, the agent for the colony in England, induced to aid the new colony. David Yale, his father, had been one of the first settlers in New Haven in 1638, and Elihu had been born in Bos- ton. As a young man he went to India and in course of time became Governor of Madras, where his extortionate methods with the natives won him a great fortune as well as great opprobrium. Elihu Yale sent to the College some books, a picture of the King of England, and a quantity of East India goods which were sold for its benefit. Thus cheaply he achieved an immortal fame as a benefactor, though in 104 NEW HAVEN Madras he is still remembered as a tyrant and a grafter. The epitaph on his tombstone in the Wrexham churchyard is frank: "Under this tomb lyes interred Elihu Yale, of Plas Gronow, Esq.: born sth of April, 1648, and dyed the 8th of July, 1721, aged 73 years. "Born in America, in Europe bred, In Africa travel'd, and in Asia wed, Where long he liv'd and thriv'd; at London dead. Much good, some ill he did; so hope all even, And that his soul through mercy's gone to heaven. You that survive and read, take care For this most certain exit to prepare, For only the actions of the just Smell sweet and blossom in the dust." The first building for the College was erected at New Haven in 1717, and at its dedication the following year the trustees adopted this minute: "We, the trustees, do with one consent determine and ordain that our college house shall be called by the name of its munificent patron and shall be named Yale College." This college house stood about where was the old college row, torn down a few years ago, in spite of the protest of Yale men, to make room for the present "archi- tectural excrescences," as a devoted alumnus has termed them. To the clergy who controlled the college, theology was the basis of the "arts and sciences." Every effort was made to preserve the doctrinal purity of Calvinism unsullied. In 1722 Rector Cutler was dismissed because of a leaning toward Episcopacy. In 1744 two students on returning to college were suspended for attending during vacation a church other than Congregational. Refusing to confess, they were expelled and their fellow students forbidden from even speaking to them from fear of corruption, so zealously were the morals of Yale youth guarded. Corporal punishment, the system of fines, and the practice of printing students' names according to social rank disappeared about the time of the Revolution. Among Yale's more famous alumni, not already mentioned, have been John C. Calhoun, the statesman and orator; S. F. B. Morse, in- ventor of the telegraph; Jonathan Edwards, Calvinist theologian; Timothy Dwight, first President of Yale of that name, who a century ago wrote the first guide book of New England. 'One reads of the long list of poets and authors Yale has sent forth. Among them were Fenimore Cooper, who entered Yale at the age of thirteen and was rusticated during his junior year, when he joined the Navy, and Ed- mund Clarence Stedman, who entered college at fifteen and at seven- teen was suspended for irregularities. Of course New Haven swarms with the variety of savants common to university towns. Among those who are better known to the multi- tude are: W. H. Taft, twenty-seventh President of the United States; Arthur T. Hadley, the modest President of Yale; Irving Fisher, who figures as a political economist among his brethren, but to the magazine-reading world is the man who knows all about the cost of living; William L. Phelps, who discovered that the novel is a profitable field for academic courses; Hiram Bingham, the South American explorer, excavator of Inca cities and revealer of the Monroe Doctrine as an obsolete shibboleth; Timothy Dwight, the second of that name to be President of Yale University; Eli Whitney, like ex-President Dwight in that he is also the third of his name, a financier if not an inventor, and president or vice president of several important New Haven companies. New Haven is more than a university town and owes its greatness as much to Eli Whitney as to Eli Yale, for her im- R. I I. NEW YORK TO NEW HAVEN 105 portance as an industrial center dates from Whitney's govern- ment contract of 125 years ago for the manufacture of fire- arms. The use of 'interchangeable parts,' now fundamental in the construction of all kinds of machinery, is due to Whitney. Because of this and his invention of the cotton gin, Barnard says in his "American Industrial History" that Whitney's in- ventive genius "changed the industrial history of a nation." New Haven has remained a center for the manufacture of small arms. The mammoth plant where Winchester guns and cartridges are made employs over 17,500 people. Including proving ground and terminals it covers 781 acres. More than 25,000,000 rounds of ammunition are fired here every year in testing their output. The Marlin Firearms Corporation makes sporting guns of high quality. Both companies are now busy night and day on large war orders for the Allies. Clock-making is an industry which developed and has prospered especially in Connecticut. The earlier clocks were fashioned entirely of wood. Eli Terry may perhaps be re- garded as the founder of the modern clock industry. He was the first to make parts to gauge and patented a model clock in 1797. At the beginning of the nineteenth century he was manufacturing clocks by the thousand. The clock now on the Center Church was made in New Haven in 1814. The New Haven Clock Company, established in 1817, is today one of the largest establishments in the city. Its president is Walter Camp, wellknown throughout the country as an authority on athletics. New Haven's clocks go all over the world. Rubber shoes and other goods were first manufactured in New Haven in 1842. The first license to manufacture rubber shoes under his new process of vulcanization was granted by Charles Goodyear to Leverett Candee. Mr. Candee enlisted the financial aid of Henry and Lucius Hotchkiss, prominent local merchants whose family is still actively identified with the New Haven Rubber Industry. The first rubber shoes were received with many doubts and suspicions and it was a long time before the public could be convinced that a new article was being marketed which, far from being a luxury, would become an indispensable necessity. In 1848 a new im- petus was given to the business by decisions upholding the validity of the Goodyear patent and confirming the licensees in their rights. It is interesting to note that in this litigation Daniel Webster represented the licensees, of which at this time there were a number, including the Goodyear India Rubber Glove Mfg. Co. and the Goodyear Metallic Rubber Shoe Company of Naugatuck. Webster received a fee of $10,000, which at that time was deemed colossal. 106 NEW HAVEN WALLINGFORD When the United States Rubber Company, the second of the large industrial corporations, was organized in 1892 the Candee Company was one of the most important units around which the 'rubber trust' was formed. Today this company em- ploys over 54,000 people and its annual business exceeds $100,000,000. The manufacture of hardware is represented by several firms, the most important being Sargent & Company, started in 1834, and now grown to be one of the greatest industrial plants in the world. They have 4000 employees and turn out 60,000 different articles sold almost entirely to the hard- ware trade. The H. B. Ives Company, established in 1872 'by Hobert B. Ives, who is still head of the company, is another large manufacturer of builders' hardware. The New Haven Chamber of Commerce, founded in 1794, is the second oldest in the country and has taken an active part in extending the industries of the city and broadening the mar- kets for other products. It occupies a fine new building south of the Green and at 673 Chapel St. maintains a free exhibit of "Made in New Haven Products" together with an informa- tion bureau and a reading room with files of papers. R. 1 2. New Haven to Hartford. 37.0 m. Via MERIDEN. STATE ROAD throughout. This shortest and most direct route, marked with blue bands on poles, follows the Old Boston Post Road along the levels of the Quinnipiac river. An alternate route passes through Durham, Middletown, and Wethersfield (p no). From the Green we follow Elm, Orange, Lawrence, and State Sts. At the bridge over Mill River is the best view of East Rock, crowned by the Soldiers' Monument. It is said that the regicides hid beneath this bridge on one occasion while their pursuers crossed above. Skirting East Rock Park, just beyond the car barns where the trolley forks, turn right over the R.R. and cross the Quin- nipiac river. From here to Wallingford is a level run parallel with the trolley. This is the old Turnpike and a straight road of oiled macadam and bituminous concrete. (Exit from New Haven may also be made from the Green, following Whitney Ave. to the north of East Rock, joining the Turnpike at North Haven.) We pass through the village of Montowese, which perpetuates the name of the Indian Sachem from whom these lands were purchased in 1638, and follow the blue markers to R. I 2. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD 107 8.5 NORTH HAVEN. Pop (twp) 2254. New Haven Co. Settled 1638. Mfg. bricks and carriage woodwork. The clay deposits here underlying the meadows have fur- nished materials for brick-making since 1720. In the early days of the New Haven Colony this was known as North Farms. In the coaching days, before the railroad, the town was of some importance as a posting station. An old ceme- tery occupies a portion of the village green. The oldest epitaph is of one who "dyed Augye 21, 1736": "Reder stop your space & stay & harken unto what I say, Our lives but cobwebs tho' near so gay, And death ye brome yt sweeps away." The road follows the level plain of the valley of the Quin- nipiac and parallels the railroad. The railroad cuttings here show the rock to be a red sandstone, friable and weathered. On the upland are grown grapes and peaches. As we approach Wallingford, and about a mile west of the little village of Quinnipiac, among the low rounded and wooded hills is Mt. Carmel. The rock composing these hills is of volcanic origin but different from the trap ridges hereabouts. Professor William Morris Davis, the Harvard geographer who has unraveled the geological history of this region, has identi- fied here the stump of an ancient volcano. He says: "Mt. Carmel and the Blue Hills, southwest of Wallingford, have a peculiar interest from marking the site of great dikes or ' necks ' of lava. In all probability they are the roots of the volcano or volcanoes from which the lava sheets of the Meriden dis- trict were erupted." The region about Waltingf ord is a characteristic ' sand plain ' where, at the close of the Glacial Period, the waters from the melting ice sheet spread out widely over the country, deposit- ing the material in a low delta, often with sharply defined and steep margins. The barren acres of cleanly washed sand support scarcely any vegetation except scrub pine and oak. The road to the left, two miles before reaching Wallingford, leads in a half mile to the old Oakdale Tavern (1769) whose proprietor advertises it as "The only Inn in New England where Washington did not stop." The blue-marked road does not pass through but leaves somewhat to the east the town of 13.5 WALLINGFORD. Alt 76 ft. Pop (twp) 11,155, (borough) 8690. New Haven Co. Settled 1667. Mfg. silver and plated ware, brass and rubber goods, and fireworks. The business center of the town lies on a ridge to the right of the direct route. It is a busy town of varied industries, with a large population of Italians and Poles. On the edge of the rolling country to the east is The Choate School for Boys. 108 WALLINGFORD BERLIN Wallingford orchards market a quarter million baskets of peaches, a million peach trees, and a half million apple trees annually. The town bears the name of the English village from which some of its settlers came. It was the center of Revolutionary protest, and at a meeting in 1767 protesting the Stamp Act it was resolved, "Whereas it appears from ancient Records and other Memorials of Incontesti- ble Validity that our Ancestors with a great Sum Purchased said township, with great Peril possessed and Defended the Same, we are Born free (having never been in bondage to any), an inheritance of Inestimable Value." And a fine of one pound sterling was imposed on any who should use the objectionable stamped paper. One of Wallingford's citizens, Dr. Lyman Hall, was a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and the town remained throughout the Revolution a hotbed of patriotism. Here Washington spent the night in 1789, making the following entry in his Diary: "Left New Haven at 6 o'clock and arrived at Wallingford (13 miles) by half after eight o'clock, when we breakfasted, and took a walk through the town. ... At this place we see the white Mulberry grow- ing, raised from the seed, to feed the Silkworm. We also saw samples of lustring (exceeding good) which had been manufactured from the Cacoon raised in this Town, and silk thread very fine. This, except the weaving, is the work of private families." In the middle of the nineteenth century a branch of the Oneida Community was located here, but its property was afterward taken over for the Masonic Home. Beyond Wallingford to the northwest are the Hanging Hills of Meriden. The three sharp peaks (1000 ft) with a gentle slope to the northward are tilted and faulted trap ridges. The central peak, Castle Craig, has a round observation tower. Northeast is the long, wooded Lamentation Mountain, another trap ridge, so called from the tradition that an early settler was lost on the mountain and never found, which caused his friends to lament. The excellent roads of this region are largely due to the abundant supply of hard trap rock. Yalesville to the west, formerly Tylers Mills, was renamed in honor of Charles Yale, who had won a fortune making tin- ware and selling it in the South. He established here, about 1810, a pioneer factory for pewter and britannia wares. Three miles from Wallingford we pass with a sharp turn under the railroad bridge and join the old turnpike which runs on the west side of the Quinnipiac, passing the village of Tracy, a suburb of Meriden. We enter the city by Old Colony and Cook Aves., passing on the west Hanover Park, a popular pleasure resort with a casino and a large lake. 20.0 MERIDEN. Alt ISO ft. Pop 27,265 (1910), loc. est. 40,000 (1915); nearly one third foreign-born. New Haven Co. Settled 1661. Mfg. silver, nickel, britannia and plated ware, granite and agate enamel ware, cut glass, firearms, cutlery, lamps and electric fixtures, and other metal goods. Value of Product, $16J16,000; Payroll, $5,428,000. R. I 2. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD 109 The 'Silver City' is well named, for it produces more than half the plated ware manufactured in the State and a good deal of solid silver as well. It is essentially an industrial city, but with well-shaded streets, attractive public buildings, and beautiful parks. The City Park and Brookside Park are near the center of the town. Hubbard Park, on the outskirts, the gift of one of Meriden's leading citizens, is an attractive reservation of 1000 acres at the foot of the Hanging Hills. Meriden, originally a portion of Wallingford, was settled by Captain Andrew Belcher, who named it for his home in Warwickshire, England. This was about a mile east of the present business center, which was then a swampy region known as "Pilgromes Harbor" because Goffe and Whalley, the regicides, fleeing from Milford, here lay hidden for several days. The coming of the railroad in 1830 met with such op- position that it was obliged to avoid the town and was built along the valley of Harbor Brook. Since then the town has moved to it. Exactly half way between Hartford and New Haven, this was in coaching days a favorite stopping-place. Most famous of its inns was the old Half Way House, formerly located at the junction of Broad and East Main Sts., which in consequence of its convivial hospitality and loca- tion was called the 'Merry Den.' The manufacture of pewter and britannia ware was begun here by Samuel Yale in 1794. One of the earliest trusts was formed in 1854 by the combination of most of the firms in the Meriden Britannia Company. In 1898 with sixteen others it was absorbed by the In- ternational Silver Company, which has its general offices and some of its principal plants in Meriden, with factories in other Connecticut cities and Canada. This company manufactures the famous "1847 Rogers Bros." brand of silverware. Its Meriden plants employ 7000 skilled workmen and turn out a product valued at $15,000,000. Meri- den is the home of the mechanical piano player. The Angelus Player Piano, a pioneer of its kind, and a development, the Vocalion, are both made here. The Edward Miller, the Bradley & Hubbard, and the Handel plants turn out millions of lamps and electrical fixtures. Charles Parker & Co. are large manufacturers of hardware, and the firm of Parker Brothers have been making guns since 1862. Cut glass is made by the I. D. Bergen, the Meriden Cut Glass, and the Silver City Cut Glass companies. Leaving the center of the town by North Colony St. we pass the old Goffe House, built in 1711; on a slope to the left is the State School for Boys. A mile and a half beyond the town we cross the line between New Haven and Hartford counties. To the northwest is the manufacturing town of New Britain. 26.0 BERLIN. Alt 64 ft. Pop 3728. Hartford Co. Settled 1686. Mfg. structural iron, pressed brick, paper boxes, and bags. A small industrial town and railroad junction, Berlin pre- sents an ungracious appearance, though the street along the Old Post Road evidences age and respectability. Here was born in 1787 Emma Hart (Willard), and here she began her career as a teacher at the age of seventeen. Famous as an educator, she is less known as the author of "Rocked in the Cradle of the Deep." HO BERLIN HARTFORD Berlin has, moreover, played an important part in the devel- opment of Connecticut industries and trade. About 1740 there came to Berlin from County Tyrone, Ireland, William and Edward Patterson, skilled in the art of shaping tin plate into small ware. Establishing a workshop they produced quantities of pans, pails, and dippers, which they peddled in hand-carts and by pack-horses through the surrounding coun- tryside, where their goods were eagerly bought as luxuries. Thus originated the Connecticut tin peddler who carried his Yankee products in gayly painted wagons from Quebec to the Mississippi. The infant industry throve so that Dr. Dwight tells us, in 1815 "ten thousand boxes of tinned plates were manufactured into culinary utensils in the town of Berlin in one year." But the lusty 'infant' was clamoring for 'pro- tection' a century later. Iron bridges were the chief output of Berlin for years, till the works, acquired by the trust, were diverted to other uses. The Turnpike trends northeasterly; it leaves the trap ridge and passes through low, rolling country. Beyond Newington Junction (31.0) to the east are the wooded heights of Glaston- bury. On the outskirts of Hartford is Trinity College on a ridge to the left. Route 10 from Saybrook and Middletown joins this route, entering Maple Ave. from Wethersfield Ave. on the right. 37.0 HARTFORD (R. 1, p 111). Alternate route, New Haven to Hartford. 41.0 m. Via DURHAM, MIDDLETOWN, and WETHERSFIELD. STATE ROAD marked in yellow to Durham, thence in blue. This route, though four miles longer and over an excellent macadam but less traveled road, is well worth taking because of the beautiful old towns through which it passes, contrasting strongly with the industrial towns on the direct route. Leaving New Haven by way of Elm and State Sts. the route crosses Mill River to East Haven, and passes immediately beneath East Rock, continuing along Middletown Ave. across the Quinnipiac by iron bridge; leaving the trolley to the right it continues straight to 9.5 NORTHFORD. Alt 76 ft. (In the town of North Branford.) Its Indian name was Paug, and here about 1720 the farmers of Branford established a summer settlement during the crop- growing season, returning to Branford in the winter. The first permanent settlement here was in 1775. I n posting days there were several taverns here, and it was an industrial town with fulling mills and tanneries. Today combs, tin and wooden articles are manufactured. R. I 2. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD III Beyond Northford the route follows the yellow markers to the right. To the south is Totoket Mountain. To the north as it crosses the boundary line into Middlesex County is Pista- paug Pond and Mountain. After nine miles of almost straight road it enters Durham Center and turns left along the principal elm-shaded street, which follows the crest of a ridge with fine views off on either side. The broad expanse of Durham Mead- ows are on the left of the small bridge over Mill Brook. 20. 5 DURHAM. Alt 529 ft. Pop(twp)997. Middlesex Co. Settled 1698. Indian name Coginchaug, "the long swamp." Mfg. cash and safe deposit boxes. The village with its one main street is one of the most beauti- ful and best preserved of eighteenth century village communi- ties, unspoiled by the influx of modern industries or foreign population. In 1774 its population was 1076; in 1810, noi; in 1910, 997, but like so many New England villages it has given liberally to the nation of its sons. Austin, the capital city of Texas, is named for a native of Durham, Moses Austin, who, in 1820, inaugurated a scheme for the colonization of Texas. Durham established the first public library in Con- necticut in 1733. On the main street still stands the pleasant maple-shaded old Swathel Inn, an important posting hostel in old stage coach days, where Washington was entertained. A carved stone in its cellar bears the date of its construction, "June 15, 1730." To the north is Bear Rock, from which there is a fine view. This was a favorite hunting ground of the Matta- besett Indians, and many Indian relics have been found. In 1905 twenty arrow heads were dug up in a spring here. The main street of Durham continues straight on as a State Road, Durham Ave., through a well cultivated peach-growing country. The yellow bands on the poles mark the way to 30.0 MIDDLE! OWN (R. 10). 37.0 HARTFORD. Alt 38 ft. Pop 98,915 (1910), 115,000 (loc. est. 1915); about one fourth foreign-born; one half foreign parentage, including Irish, Germans, Russians, Italians, Swedes, and English. State capital, County-seat of Hartford Co. Indian name Suckeag. Port of Entry. Insurance and banking center, tobacco market. Mfg. firearms, ma- chinery, hardware, silver plate, typewriters, rubber tires, and electrical goods. Insurance assets, about $500,000,000; Value of Products (1915), $60,680,000; Payroll, $20,000,000. Hartford, a beautiful and historic city of wealth, has been well called 'The Queen City of New England.' Built on land rising from a curving bend of the Connecticut, its broad shaded streets, substantial public buildings, prosperous resi- dences, accessible well-kept parks lead the visitor to decide HARTFORD it the second most beautiful of American cities, his own civic pride, of course, reserving his home town for first place. As in the seventeenth century, "Hartford is a gallant town, and many rich men in it." There is less of newness and a more prosperously settled look about its streets than is generally characteristic of our cities, as befits the two and a half cen- turies of historic and literary associations. 1 City Hall Square 2 Charter Oak Site 3 BushnellPark 4 Capitol 5 Keney Memorial 6 Trinity College 7 Elizabeth Park 8 Goodwin Park q Riverside Park Occupying a commercially strategic position on the lower Connecticut valley, fifty miles from the Sound, its present importance was first established by river trade and has been maintained by the railroads, which radiate in five directions. Today Hartford is not only the capital city of Connecticut, but an important center of the insurance business, a city of important manufacturing industries, and a tobacco market. City Hall Square, the heart of the city, was originally the 'Meeting House Yard,' or Green, and of greater extent. The R. I 2. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD 113 trolleys now center at the forum of the colonists, where they assembled yearly to elect their officers, and here were wit- nessed and celebrated many historic events. The Square presents interesting traditions of oldtime and modern archi- tecture. The stately old brick City Hall, completed in 1796 with funds raised in part by a lottery, was used as the State Capitol for nearly a hundred years. It is one of the best examples of the work of Bulfinch, New England's first and greatest architect. In it was held the Hartford Convention during the War of 1812 at which the secession of New England from the Union was more than hinted at. On Main St. a block south is the old Center Church, a fine example of meeting house architecture with a Christopher Wren spire. This 'First Church' was organized in 1632 in Cambridge. The present beautiful edifice was completed in 1807 and the interior has been little changed. The early settlers lie in the ancient burying ground. The epitaph of Samuel Stone, a divine who died in 1663, begins, "New England's glory and her radient crowne Was he, who now on softest bed of downe, Till glorious resurrection morn appeare, Doth safely, sweetly sleepe in Jesus here." Opposite the church is the castellated front of the Wads- worth Athenaeum, built in 1842 on the site of the founder's house, where Washington and Rochambeau had their first conference. On the Green is a statue of Nathan Hale. Within are valuable libraries, an historical museum, a bird collection, and an art collection, including canvases by Stuart, Trumbull, West, and Sargent. The beautiful Morgan Art Gallery next the Athenaeum was completed in 1913 and presented to the city by J. Pierpont Morgan as a memorial to his father, Junius Spencer Morgan, a native of Hartford. Hartford's handsome new Municipal Building was dedicated in November, 1915. Colt Memorial forms the connecting link between the Athe- naeum and the Morgan Memorial and contains memorials of the Colt family, including a collection of firearms gathered by Colonel Samuel Colt. Adjacent are the buildings of the ^Etna Fire and ^Etna Life Insurance Companies, and nearby are the Phoenix, Hart- ford, and Connecticut Mutual. The Travelers Insurance Building stands on the site of Zachary Sanford's tavern, and it was here in 1687 when Governor Andros called in session the General Court for the purpose, so it was mooted, of de- priving them of their charter of liberties, that the candles were suddenly extinguished and the charter spirited away. Just across the Park river, on Charter Oak Place off Main St., a tablet marks the site of the Charter Oak in the hollow of 114 HARTFORD which the charter was secreted. The tree stood on the Gover- nor Wyllis homestead, and was thirty-three feet in circumfer- ence when it was blown down in 1856. Mark Twain asserted that he had since seen made from the wood: "a walking stick, dog collar, needle case, three legged stool, boot jack, dinner table, ten pin alley, tooth pick, and enough Charter Oak to build a plank road from Hartford to Salt Lake City." At the further end of Main St. in Tunnel Park at the junction of High St. and Windsor Ave. is the Keney Memorial Tower, with a chime clock. On the river nearby is the beauti- ful Riverside Park. In the center of the city is Bushnell Park, a beautiful undulat- ing tract of fifty acres bordering the Park river, and reclaimed in 1859 from an unsightly spot through the good citizenship of the great preacher Horace Bushnell (d. 1876). It is en- tered through a turreted gateway, a memorial to soldiers of the Civil War. The city's outdoor sculpture exhibit here includes J. Q. A. Ward's statue of General Israel Putnam. Adjoining are the Capitol Grounds, formerly the Campus of Trinity College. The State Capitol, a conspicuous object in all views of the town, is of Upjohn Gothic architecture, com- pleted in 1880 at a cost of over $3,300,000. Within are Civil War trophies, and statues and busts of Connecticut worthies. The dome (250 ft) commands an extensive view. Facing the Capitol Grounds are the new State Arsenal and Armory of granite, completed in 1910, and the Connecticut State Library, completed in 1914 at a cost of $1,500,000. The latter is a beautiful and dignified example of Italian Renaissance architecture. The archives include many ancient and im- portant documents and charters, the oldest bearing the auto- graph of King Charles II. In Memorial Hall at the south end hangs Stuart's celebrated full length portrait of Washing- ton, and beneath in a cabinet is preserved the famous charter which for a time was secreted in the Charter Oak. In the floor of Memorial Hall there is a central tile panel showing a col- lection of seals used by the State of Connecticut at various periods. Here is the Mitchelson numismatic collection com- plete for all U.S. coinages and issues. The Hartford Theological Seminary, founded in 1733 at Windsor and transferred to Hartford in 1865, is near the Capitol on Broad St. It has a famous theological library of 100,000 volumes and includes the Kennedy School of Missions and the School of Religious Pedagogy. A tract of thirty acres has been purchased in the western part of Hartford, to which it will move from its present quarters. Above Bushnell Park on Asylum Ave. to the right is the R. I 2. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD 115 Deaf and Dumb Asylum founded in 1817 by Dr. Gallaudet who inaugurated the education of deaf mutes. Farmington Avenue, a handsome residential road, is rich in literary associations. A mile and a quarter from the center of the city Mark Twain's house stands on a knoll beside an oak grove well back from the Avenue, and with its kitchen and laundry toward the street. The author maintained that by this unusual arrangement he had solved the servant problem for so long a time as policemen should continue to wear their uniforms with grace and sauntering superiority. The house, gabled and vine embowered, is built of many kinds of colored brick in elaborate and fantastical design. Next to the south, while they lived there, joined by a well-worn footpath, is the spacious dwelling where Charles Dudley Warner (1829-1900) lived while editor of the "Hartford Courant." Samuel Langhorne Clemens, who endeared himself to the American people as Mark Twain, after the success of his "In- nocents Abroad" came to Hartford in 1871 and lived first in a "rambling Gothic cottage" just off Forest St. Adjoining was the "little red brick cottage embowered in green" where Warner then lived, with the garden at the back, which in- spired his first book, "My Summer in a Garden." It was here, too, that he wrote his "Backlog Studies." Nearby was the slate-roofed cottage among the trees and shrubs where Mrs. H. B. Stowe came to live in the early '7o's and which re- mained her home until her death in 1896, and here came her ad- mirers from all quarters to pay homage. Near the top of Van- derbilt Hill, on Farmington Ave., is the residence of Ira Dimock, erected by Cornelius Vanderbilt 2d, son of Cornelius ist. The Trinity College buildings, designed by Surges of Lon- don in early English style, stand out on Rocky Hill to the south of the city. The earliest Episcopalian college, it was chartered in 1823 as Washington College, and became Trinity in 1845. The steep side of the quarry behind the buildings shows clearly the interesting structure of the hill, consisting of trap rock overlying the horizontal red sandstones. Hartford has been lavishly supplied with parks of unusual beauty through the foresight and generosity of her citizens. They number twenty-one and aggregate 1335 acres. Keney Park, an extensive wild tract of land of 680 acres in the north of the city, is the gift of Henry Keney. Elizabeth Park, to the west, famous for its rose gardens, floral displays, and at- tractive landscaping, is the gift of Charles M. Pond, and named for his wife. Goodwin Park (200 acres), Colt Park (106 acres), the gift of Colonel Colt's widow, and Pope Park (90 acres) are to the south. Charter Oak Park, so called, is a Il6 HARTFORD trotting park and fair grounds. There are also charming drives to Tumbledown Brook and Talcott Mountain. The first settlement on the site of Hartford was made in 1633 by the Dutch from New Amsterdam who built a two gun fort "The Hirse of Good Hope" at the junction of the Park and Connecticut rivers, to this day known as Dutch Point. Two years later appeared on the scene, much to the disgust of the Dutch, a whole congregation from Newtowne (now Cambridge), Mass., led by Thomas Hooker, that "rich pearl which Europe gave to America." They came over- land, driving their cattle before them, but sent their goods by sea. At first they called their settlement Newtowne. A year later it re- ceived its present name in honor of Hooker's companion, Samuel Stone, whose birthplace was Hertford, England. The discrepancy in spelling does not imply a similar difference in pronunciation, for in England the "er" in "clerk" is pronounced as "ar" in "dark." Hartford immediately became a place of significance and the meeting place of the first General Court of the Connecticut Colony. Here in 1639 the planters of the neighboring settlements assembled and adopted "The Fundamental Orders," the first written constitution in history. Under the influence of the stern Puritan pastors the laws of this time prescribed the death penalty for idolatry, witchcraft, blasphemy, rebellion, and numerous similarly heinous offenses. The famous version of the Blue Laws which makes such interesting reading was due to Samuel Peters, an Episcopal minister whose stanch loyalty to the crown so provoked the 'Sons of Liberty' that he was mobbed, threatened with tar and feathers, and driven out of town. With vengeance in his heart he published anonymously in London in 1781, "A General History of Connecticut, Including a Description of the Country, And many curious and interesting Anecdotes." In this he gave the long accepted but spurious version of the Blue Laws. Some of these, as he gave them, stipulated that "No woman shall kiss her child on the Sabbath or Fasting Days," "No minister shall keep school," "No one shall travel, make beds, cook, sweep house, shave, or cut hair on the Sabbath," "No one shall read the common prayer, keep Christmas or Saints' Days, make minced pies, dance, play cards, or play on any instrument of music except it be the drum, trumpet, or a Jewsharp." Peters presented a somewhat distorted and biased portrait of the Connecticut Puritans, who, he said, "out-pop'd the Pope, out-king'd the King, and out-bishop'd the Bishops." 'Blue Laws,' as a matter of fact, were common to all the Colonies. For example, Massachusetts in 1647 banished Quakers under penalty of death if they returned, while New Haven more mercifully never threatened Quakers with death, but gave them the choice of im- prisonment, banishment, whipping, and branding, with the thrifty proviso that the expense was to be paid by the victim. Puritan seriousness interfered with the enjoyment of a joke as appears in a Connecticut record of 1648, as follows: "The Court ad- judgeth Peter Bussaker for his filthy and profane expressions (namely, that he hoped to meete some of the members of the church in hell ere long, and he did not but question that he should) to be committed to prison, there to be kept in safe custody, till the sermon, and then to stand the time thereof in the pillory, and after to be severely whipped." Forty years before Salem became interested in the hunting down and exterminating of witches the Land of Steady Habits entered upon such a campaign. In 1662 quite an epidemic of witch-hanging broke out in Hartford. Among those caught in the net at this time were Nathaniel Greensmith of Hartford and his wife, who lived on the R. I 2. NEW HAVEN TO HARTFORD 117 present Wethersfield Ave. He was a well-to-do farmer, though he had been occasionally convicted of theft, assault, and lying, and his wife Rebecca was described by Rev. John Whiting as a "lewd, ig- norant, and considerably aged woman." They each seemed to sus- pect the other of familiarity with Satan, and as a result of this and other suspicions were hanged in 1662 on Gallows Hill about where Trinity College now stands, from which the crowd in the meadows could witness the show. Washington came to Hartford from the Hudson by way of Litch- field with a guard of twenty-two dragoons in September, 1780, to confer with Rochambeau, whose aide-de-camp wrote of Washington on this occasion: "This most illustrious man of our century. His majestic, handsome countenance is stamped with an honesty and a gentleness which correspond well with his moral qualities. He looks like a hero; ... he is very cold, speaks little, but is frank and courteous in manner; a tinge of melancholy affects his whole bearing, which renders him, if possible, more interesting." It was during Wash- ington's absence at this time that Benedict Arnold betrayed West Point to the enemy, and it was the patrol of farmers formed to insure Washington's safe journey to Hartford on this occasion who were directly responsible for the capture of Major Andre. Some time after the Revolution Hartford became perhaps the chief literary center of the country because of the 'Hartford Wits,' an in- fluential group of literary men who were the publicists of the Feder- alist Party. They were a group of nine young Yale graduates who banded together for the cultivation of letters and for a time resided in Hartford. John Trumbull, Timothy Dwight, and Joel Barlow were the leaders. Timothy Dwight wrote an epic in twelve books, "The Conquest of Canaan," and his "Travels in New England," the first guide book to this region, is good reading. In addition to celebri- ties previously mentioned are John Fiske, historian, Gideon Welles, Secretary of the Navy under President Lincoln, and Frederick Law Olmsted. Hiram P. Maxim, the inventor of the Maxim silencer, and son of the inventor of the Maxim gun, is a native of the city and one of the most prominent residents of the present day. Up to the nineteenth century Hartford's commerce was her chief source of wealth, but the advent of the railroads brought a change, and manufacturing and insurance have since been the chief source of income. The manufacture of woolens commenced with the erection of the first woolen -mill in New England in 1788. In 1846, or there- abouts, the Rogers process of electro-silver plating was invented and patented here. Not long afterward the manufacture of firearms be- came another leading industry. This was due to the efforts of Colonel Samuel Colt, born at Hartford, July 19, 1814. He was hardly more than a lad when he sailed before the mast to Calcutta and back. On the voyage he worked out the idea of his famous revolver and made a wooden model of it. Upon his return he was unable to secure the interest or financial backing necessary. To obtain funds he toured the country delivering lectures on chemistry. In 1858, 60,000 re- volvers were made. Today the Colt Patent Firearms Company is one of the leading firms in this city, manufacturing revolvers, auto- matic pistols, and automatic machine guns. Connecticut produces four fifths of the total value of ammunition of the United States, and one fourth of the value of firearms. Underwood and Royal Type- writers, the machine tools of the Pratt and Whitney Company, church organs, engines, harnesses, and horseshoe nails are local products. In the business world Hartford ranks first of all as an insurance center. The origin of the insurance business dates from Colonial days, when the merchant traders whose ships sailed to the West Indies Il8 HARTFORD EAST WINDSOR and the Spanish Main realized the value of having their cargoes underwritten or insured against the depredations of the buccaneers and pirates who thronged the seas. In 1794 the following card ap- peared in the "Hartford Courant": "HARTFORD FIRE INSURANCE OFFICE. The subscribers have this day opened an office for the purpose of insuring Houses, Household Furniture, Goods, Wares, Merchandise etc. against Fire. Sanford and Wadsworth. Hartford, loth March, 1794." In 1810 a charter was secured by the Hartford Fire Insurance Com- pany with a capital of $150,000. It is now the second oldest stock fire insurance company in America. The growth of this business continued steadily until now there are a dozen or more companies that have been born and brought up here. Among these are the Hartford Fire, which issued a policy as early as 1794, Hartford Life, /Etna (fire), JEtna, Life, Phoenix Fire, Phoenix Mutual Life, Travelers, National Fire, Connecticut General Life, Connecticut Mutual Life, and Connecticut Fire. The assets of the Hartford companies total about $500,000,000. Since the beginning of fire insurance in this city, $340,000,000 have been paid out. The San Francisco Fire occasioned payments of $18,000,000 by Hartford companies. More than 5000 people in Hartford live by insurance. The main route follows the east bank of the Connecticut from this point to Springfield. For the route along the west bank see Route 10. R. 1 3. Hartford to Springfield. 27.0 m. Via ENFIELD. STATE ROAD with blue markers. From City Hall go east on Central Row and State St. and north on the Boulevard to the river and the magnificent new $3,000,000 nine arch stone bridge, completed in 1908, on the site of the old wooden toll bridge burned in 1895. From the bridge down stream is the great plant of the Colt Firearms Com- pany, above are Riverside Park and the Keney Memorial Tower. From EAST HARTFORD (1.8) a trunk line State Road marked in red, Route 3, runs eastward to Willimantic, Putnam, etc. The route to Springfield turns north following the trunk line State Road, marked in blue, on the east bank of the Connec- ticut, and generally parallel with and half a mile from the river bank. It is a succession of village streets almost completely lined with houses and tobacco farms. East Hartford was the home of a man who more than any other had to do with the settlement of Connecticut valley. He was Wah- quinnacut, a leader of the Podunks, who went to Boston and Plymouth in 1631 to urge the English to come to settle in his beautiful valley with its rich meadows and abundant fur and fish. The Podunks had a stronghold on Fort Hill to the east of the present Main St., and lived peaceably enough with the white settlers until King Philip's War. A few of them continued to live near the Podunk river until the middle of the eighteenth century. Two miles to the east is the little factory hamlet of Burnside, at the falls of the Hockanum river, where since 1784 paper has been made R. I 3- HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 1 19 on the site now occupied by the East Hartford Mfg. Co., makers of fine writing papers. Originally this was known as Pitkins Falls, from a family of that name which early established a fulling mill here. Colonel Joseph Pitkin had an iron forge here, but in 1750, when the British trade regu- lations stopped iron working in the Colonies, he transformed it into a factory for the manufacture of gunpowder by a grim sort of justice, to be used against the home government in 1775. 6.0 SOUTH WINDSOR. Alt 70 ft. Pop (twp) 2251. Hartford Co. Settled 1640. Tobacco. The village was formerly part of East Windsor, and East Windsor Hill Post Office today is in South Windsor. During the Revolution many prisoners of war were sent here for safe keeping, among them William Franklin, Royal Governor of New Jersey, and son of Dr. Franklin. Governor Franklin was quartered at the house of Lieutenant Diggin, about a mile south of the Congre- gational Church, where he lived in princely style. He was extremely fond of sour punch, and in a retired bower near Podunk Brook he pre- pared and served his favorite beverage to his French visitors, for Lafayette after the abandonment of the project for invading Canada made his headquarters here in the house of Mr. Porter. The ancient elms still bordering the road were planted by British and Hessian prisoners at the suggestion and under the direction of Lafayette. John Fitch, the inventor of the first steamboat, was born here in 1743. The Fitches were early settlers in Windsor. John's unhappy childhood under a grim taskmaster of a father was followed by an equally unhappy life. Apprenticed to Timothy Cheney to learn clock-making, he was kept at ignoble tasks instead of being taught the trade. In the Revolution his efforts to serve his country were unappreciated. As early as 1785 he constructed a brass model of a small paddle-wheel steamboat which he tried out with entire success. In 1788 he obtained patents from four States and in 1791 from the U.S. Federal Government, covering the application of steam as a motive power for marine purposes. His first boat, built in 1787, maintained a speed of eight miles an hour over a course of one mile and later made a whole day's run of eighty miles at Philadelphia. Fitch predicted that in time to come the Atlantic would be crossed in steamboats. He was too early for his time, however, and misfortune followed him. On the trial trip of a new boat with three paddle-wheels and a tubular boiler, the boiler burst. He went to France to introduce his invention, but, the French Revolution coming on, his enterprise proved a failure. After vain attempts to interest capitalists, and a period of wandering in the Ohio river country during which he was taken captive by Indians and his health impaired by exposure, he died a suicide in 1798 in Kentucky. The site of his birthplace is marked by a monument on the old King's Highway, a quarter mile east of the route. At East Windsor Hill near the northern limits of South Windsor on the right side of the road near the old cemetery was the birthplace of Jonathan Edwards, the celebrated divine of the eighteenth century, who discovered that "hell is paved with infants' skulls." 8.0 EAST WINDSOR. Alt 86 ft. Pop (twp) 3362. Hartford Co. Settled 1638. Mfg. silks and woolens. Two miles north of Podunk River is the old Grant family house, with a highboy doorway. This was the ancestral home 120 EAST WINDSOR SPRINGFIELD of Gen. U. S. Grant's forefathers. The old brick buildings on the same side of the street were formerly occupied by the Theological Seminary, now removed to Hartford. At Warehouse Point (13.5) in 1638 William Pynchon built a warehouse at the foot of the falls, where furs and merchan- dise were loaded on sea-going vessels. The site has been located by antiquaries about a hundred yards below the present ferry. Rye gin is extensively made here. On the wide Toll Bridge from Warehouse Point to Windsor Locks is the quaint sign of the ancient East Windsor Ferry: "Each ox or other neat kine .o6J^c Each sheep swine or goat 7 mills 'No Trust'" 17.5 ENFIELD. Alt 78 ft. Pop (twp) 9719. Hartford Co. Settled 1681. Mfg. carpets and coffin hardware. The situation on a level terrace of the Connecticut commands a broad view. The Shaker village in the valley to the east was established here in 1788. Near it is the village of Haz- ardville, where there are extensive powder mills. Settled by people from Salem, Enfield remained within the jurisdiction of Massachusetts until 1752 because of a mistake of the early surveyors in setting the boundary line of Massachusetts too far south. As we cross Fresh Water Brook on the left is the manufac- turing town of THOMPSONVILLE (18.5) with long-established carpet works and factories for the production of printing presses. The father of local manufacturing interests is Orrin Thompson, who served an apprenticeship in a New York carpet store, returned to his home town, set up a factory for manufacturing carpets in 1828, and so founded an industry which thrives to this day. Just beyond Conchusett Farm (20.5) the road crosses the Massachusetts State Line at which is State Line Park. 22.2 LONGMEADOW. Alt 64 ft. Pop 1084 (1910), 1782 (1915). Hampden Co. Mfg. brick and tile. The long, narrow village Green is to the right. The church on the Green has a bell cast in 1810 by Paul Revere. At the end of the village, with a brown sandstone mile post in front, is the romantic old Ely Mansion, built about 1774 by Deacon Nathaniel Ely, Jr., from brick baked in front of the site. Here were spent five years of the boyhood of the Dauphin of France, as Eleazar Williams later supposed himself to be. To the deacon came for their education in 1800 two young kinsmen, Eleazar and John Williams, grandsons of Eunice Williams of Deerfield (R. 10). John showed every evidence of Indian blood and failed to profit by his associations and study. Eleazar was a lovable boy, courtly and noble in his bearing. Not until much later, as the result of accumulated evidence, did he come to believe himself the lost son of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. Much of his later life was spent as a mission- ary with the Oneida Indians, with whom he became a strong influence. R. I 3. HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 12 1 Leaving Longmeadow there is a view ahead of Springfield, with Mt. Tom and the Holyoke range to the north. To the left is the white tower of the new City Hall. On entering Springfield on Pecousic Ave., Forest Park lies to the right, with a monument to President McKinley and the Barney mausoleum and residence. At the fork bear to the right, across the Mill river into Main St., the center of the city, meet- ing Route 13 from_theJ3erkshires and the West. THE ROMANTIC OLD ELY MANSION, LONGMEADOW 27.0 SPRINGFIELD. Alt 100 ft. Pop 88,926 (1910), 102,103 (1915); 28,000 foreign-born. County-seat of Hampden Co. Settled 1636. Indian name Agaam or Agawam, "meadow." Distrib- uting center. Waterpower from Mill River. Mfg. firearms, skates, paper, toys, foundry and machine-shop products, tex- tiles, machinery, automobiles, motorcycles, railroad cars; meat packing. Value of Product (1913), $43,509,000; Payroll, $9,948,000. Springfield, the chief city of western Massachusetts, rivals Hartford in population, wealth, civic pride, and the natural beauty and advantages of its situation. Many examples of fine architecture give the city a dignity which is well main- tained by its spacious parks, beautifully shaded streets, and the excellence of its educational and public institutions. Dur- ing the past few years there has been a good deal of agitation for the reclamation of the picturesque waterfront, now marred by railway tracks. The city is built on a sandy plain along the east bank of the Connecticut and on a series of terrace-like slopes which rise to an altitude of about 150 feet above the sea. The situation at the junction of the Boston & Albany and the New York, New Haven, & Hartford railroads makes it the important distributing center for the middle Connecticut valley region. SPRINGFIELD Large slaughter-houses and meat-packing plants are situated here, and there is a wide diversity of local industries; but to the outer world Springfield brings to mind the historic Arsenal, Smith & Wesson Revolvers, and Barney & Berry Skates. Court Square, shaded by many noble old elm trees, is the civic and historic center. The plot was bought in 1820 for $3000 by a group of citizens, and was presented to Hampden County. Here in the Colonial days stood the stocks and the whipping post. Next the meeting house was the old Parsons Tavern, where Washington drank his flip. "Reached Spring- field by 4 o'clock," he wrote in his Diary under the date of Oct. 21, 1789, "and while dinner was getting, examined the Continental Stores at this place. . . . Gen. Shepherd, Mr. Lyman and many other Gentlemen sat an hour or two with me in the evening at Parsons's Tavern, where I lodged, and which is a good House." In the Square stands the sturdy bronze figure of Sergeant Miles Morgan, with bell-mouthed gun over his shoulder and hoe in hand, who came from Bristol, England, in 1636, and later settled in Springfield. He became the progenitor of the multi-millionaire New York financiers. The Court House (1874), at the southwest corner of the Square, was one of the first buildings designed by Henry H. Richardson, the famous architect. The First Congregational Church, a fine example of the old New England meeting house, built in 1819, is the fourth edifice of this congregation, organized in 1637. The copper weathercock which surmounts the spire was made in England, and has looked down upon the town for over a cen- tury and a half. The new Municipal Buildings, facing Court Square, consti- tute one of the finest architectural groups in the country. It consists of two classic structures of Indiana limestone, with colonnades of ten forty-foot Corinthian columns, completed in the fall of 1913 at a cost of $2,000,000. In the building on the right are the city offices, and on the left the Auditorium, with a seating capacity of 4200. Between them stands the Campanile, or clock tower (300 ft), from which there is an extensive view of the Connecticut valley. The twelve bells in the tower chime the ' Cambridge Quarters ' of Handel and are also used for ringing carillons. Main Street, a prosaic business thoroughfare, is the industrial artery of the city. It follows the course of the old Indian trail along which were built the log huts of the first settlers. Some of the most notable buildings fronting on it are the Post Office and Customs House, the Third National Bank Building, the Union Trust Company, and the Massachusetts R. I 3- HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 123 Mutual Life Insurance Company. North of the Square is the shopping district, and south is the State Armory. The " Springfield Republican " has a national reputation. On the front of the building at Main St. and Harrison Ave. is a bronze relief of Samuel Bowles by Daniel Chester French. The paper was established in 1824 by Samuel Bowles, whose son (d. 1878), grandson (d. 1915) of the same name, and great-grandson, Sherman Bowles, have carried on his tradi- tions of editorship. At first a weekly, in 1844 it became a daily, and in 1878 the first Sunday issue appeared. In 1849 Dr. J. G. Holland became the editor and gave the "Republican" a literary flavor it long retained. He bought an interest, and his intimate association with it extended through seventeen years. Holland's home where he wrote the best of his his- toric romances, "The Bay Path," was at 115 High St. His grave in the Springfield Cemetery is marked with a bronze bas-relief by Saint-Gaudens. The railroad is carried across Main St. on a massive stone arch of fine architectural lines. The station building was de- signed by H. H. Richardson, but has an inefficient track ar- rangement and inadequate platform facilities. Opposite the station, on a blank brick wall, during the summer of 1915, was displayed this flamboyant legend in lines sixty feet long, and letters two feet high: "Some one has said that when the Creator had made all the good things there still remained some work to do; so he made beasts and reptiles and poisonous insects, and when he had finished there were some scraps left; so he put all these together, covered it with suspicion, marked it with a yellow streak, and called it a Knocker. "This product was so fearful to contemplate that he had to make something to counteract it; so he took a sunbeam, put in it the heart of a child, the brains of a man, wrapped these in civic pride, covered it with brotherly love, gave it a mask of velvet and a grasp of steel and called it a Booster." At either end of the gigantic legend are two marvelous bits of 'still life'; a twenty-foot peach basket out of which roll brilliant peaches two feet in diameter, and a cantaloupe twenty feet in diameter, enticingly cut open. Hampden Park, a one-time race track, is now a baseball ground. It originated from a horse show held here in 1852 and was opened with an oration by Henry Ward Beecher. Four bridges span the river, the most ancient of which is the Old Toll Bridge, a covered wooden structure originally built in 1805 by Isaac Damon with funds raised in part by lottery and rebuilt in 1816. The project was considered a great en- gineering enterprise and met with violent opposition. In town meeting one of the local bigwigs solemnly declared, " Gentlemen, you might just as well undertake to bridge the Atlantic!'' 124 SPRINGFIELD State Street extends across the city from the river, its con- tinuation eastward being known as Boston Road. It is a broad and dignified thoroughfare, delightfully shaded and bordered by some of the city's most notable institutions. The new City Library on State St. was the gift of Andrew Carnegie ($200,000) and 378 Springfield citizens ($155,000). It is a beautiful and stately example of Italian Renaissance architecture in Vermont marble, designed by Edward L. Tilton. At present the Library contains 200,000 books and has capacity for half a million. It has an enviable reputation for the liberality and efficiency of its management. In Merrick Park, adjoining the Library grounds, stands Saint- Gaudens' vigorous and masterly statue "The Puritan," osten- sibly a representation of Deacon Samuel Chapin. As Supreme Court Jiistice Hughes together with his friend were being shown about the sculptor's studio at Cornish by Mrs. Saint- Gaudens, they paused before the statue of "The Puritan," typical in garb and pose of the austerity and sternness of the type. Gazing up into his hard-lined face, the friend broke the silence with the platitude, "Ah, that was the kind of men that made America." Judge Hughes came back quickly: "Thank God they made only a little part of it." The Art Museum, adjacent to the Library, is in the same general style of architecture. In panels on the end walls are set in metal letters the names of the world's great artists, in- cluding those of China and Japan. The George Walter Vincent Smith collection of Oriental porcelains, cloisonnes, bronzes, jades, lacquers, etc., occupy many rooms. There are also interesting Mohammedan manuscripts and an excel- lent collection of ancient Oriental rugs. Mrs. Smith's collec- tion of laces and embroideries fills many cases. Springfield's advanced position in the art world is largely due to the in- fluence and inspiration of George W. V. Smith, a traveler and connoisseur who had exceptional opportunities for bringing together an unusual collection of Japanese and Chinese art. On his offering to bequeath his collections to the City Library Association a building was provided by the subscriptions of the public-spirited citizens. The Science Museum, a low building with a Doric portico, back of the Art Museum, con- tains natural history collections. At 49 Chestnut St. is the house in which George Bancroft, the historian, lived during his three years' residence in Springfield, 1835-38. Nearly opposite the Library and Museum is a notable group of school buildings, the new million-dollar High School of Commerce, the great Technical High School, one of the largest in New England, and the Central High School. Throughout R. I 3- HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 125 the city the school buildings are conspicuous. Springfield early took rank in the educational world through the influence of Dr. Thomas M. Balliet, who from 1888 to 1904 was in charge of the school system, and put Springfield on the map of the educational world. The American International College, located since 1888 on upper State St., trains foreign young men and women of twenty nationalities in American ideals and gives them a command of the English language. The Y.M.C.A. Training College, where secretaries and gymnasium instructors are prepared for their special work, is the only one of the kind. The Mac- Dufne School occupies the homestead of the father of the late Samuel Bowles on Crescent Hill. The Church of the Unity, on State St., opposite the Library, which is adorned with some splendid Tiffany windows, and the North Congregational Church, two blocks north on Salem St., are the work of H. H. Richardson. In the parish house of Christ Church, Chestnut St. near State, is another notable work of art, the painted glass window of Mary at the Tomb, by John La Farge. The Holy Family Church, on Eastern Ave., a fine example of the Early English Perpendicular, con- tains carvings by Kirchmayer of Oberammergau. The old Rockingham House, a relic of stage coach days, still stands at the corner of State and Walnut Sts. Opposite it, in Benton Park, is a curious guide stone, erected in 1763 by Joseph Wait, a Brookfield merchant who lost his way here in a blinding snow-storm. Masonic emblems are carved on the stone, which is scarred by bullets fired by General Shepard's troops at Shays' insurgent forces, and bears the inscription, "For the benefit of travellers," above which appears the motto, "Virtus est sua merces." The United States Arsenal, established by Congress in 1794, occupies a part of 74 acres on the left of State St. The spacious and well kept grounds are entered at the south corner and are open to the public during working hours. (Passes must be procured at the office.) The venerable buildings are of simple and agreeable proportions, standing on a slight elevation. The main building is a reproduction of the East India house in London and was built in 1846. Its low four-square tower commands a view of the Connecticut valley that elicited such enthusiastic praise from Thackeray. Toward the north is the Mt. Holyoke range, with Mt. Tom in the foreground and the Connecticut winding between fertile meadows; to the south is the lovely Pecousic valley and the old village of Longmeadow; eastward are the hills of Wilbraham; and to the west the Berk- shire Hills; the city itself is almost hidden in masses of foliage. 126 SPRINGFIELD To the southeast are the barracks, guard house, middle and eastern arsenal. To the north is the long building occupied by the ordnance storekeeper, general offices, and milling depart- ment; and fronting Federal St. are the machine, polishing, carpenter, and paint shops. The main arsenal has a storage capacity of 50x3,000 Springfield rifles; with the other buildings the capacity is 1,000,000. The U.S. Watershops, where the forging and heavier work on the Springfield rifles is done, are about a mile southeast of the Armory. The plant normally employs 1300 workmen and has a capacity of 140,000 Spring- field rifles a year. When on their wedding journey from Pittsfield, Longfellow and his second wife visited the Arsenal. The polished rifle barrels arranged in tiers against the walls prompted Mrs. Longfellow to compare them to organ pipes. It was this that later inspired the lines: "This is the arsenal. From floor to ceiling, Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms; But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing Startles the villages with strange alarms. Ah! what a sound will rise, how wild and dreary, When the death-angel touches those swift keys; What loud lament and dismal Miserere Will mingle with their awful symphonies!" Maple Street, shaded by elms and maples, leads to Crescent Hill, which commands another inspiring view of the city and the valley. Along this street are many handsome modern and Colonial residences with ample and tasteful grounds. The palatial million-dollar stone residence of Daniel B. Wesson was recently sold to the Colony Club for $60,000. The Cynthia Wesson Memorial Hospital, on High St., with its projecting cor- nice, suggests a Florentine palazzo. Off Maple St. is also the Springfield Cemetery, wherein is the grave of Mary Pynchon Holyoke, a daughter of William Pynchon, marked with a stone bearing this quaint inscription: "HERE LYETH THE BODY OF MARI THE WIFE OF ELIZUR HOLYOKE WHO DIED OCTOBER 26 1657. " Shee yt lyes here was while shee stood A very glory of womanhood Even here was sowne most precious dust Which surely shall rise with the just." At the southern entrance to the city is Forest Park, a beauti- fully wooded and picturesquely watered land of over 500 acres. The park was begun in 1884 by a gift of sixty-five acres of land from 0. H. Greenleaf. To this Everett Barney, the skate manufacturer, added 104 acres from his adjoining estate, and there have been several subsequent additions. It contains some beautiful gardens, an elaborate collection of lotus and other Oriental plants, and a zoological collection. R. I 3. HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 127 Through the Barney estate flows Pecousic Brook forming fantastic water gardens. The Barney & Berry Skate factory is near at hand and conspicuous from the railroad. The Annual Music Festival, now held in the new Municipal Auditorium, dates from 1889 and is one of the principal musical events of western New England. It brings to Springfield the world's famous operatic and concert stars. The National Dairy Show will be held from October 1 2th to 2ist on the grounds of the Eastern States Agricultural and Industrial Exposition, West Springfield (R. 10). Industrial conditions of Springfield are more settled than in most industrial centers. The city is practically free from slums, and even the factory operatives have homes of their own with space for gardens and outdoor life. The modern principle of wage regulation and a short working day was laid down by the first settlers of Springfield, who provided that, "All teames consisting of 4 cattill with one man, shall not take above 6 shillings a day wages: From May till October to work eight hours, and the other part of the year six hours for theyre day's worke." The city's best known manufactured products include re- volvers and automatic pistols, made by Smith & Wesson, es- tablished in 1857; the Barney & Berry Skates, made here since 1864, the Hendee Manufacturing Company's Indian Motor- cycle, Knox Tractors, the Bosch Magneto, Milton Bradley's kindergarten supplies, the Tabor-Prang Art Company's publica- tions, G. & C. Merriam's Webster's Dictionaries, and the Orange Judd Company's agricultural publications. Among other in- dustrial firms of importance are the Wason Mfg. Co. (steel R.R. and trolley cars), the Package Machinery Company, Cheney Bigelow Wire Works, and the U.S. Envelope Com- pany. Springfield, too, is an insurance center second only to Hartford in New England. The two most important firms are the Massachusetts Mutual Life Insurance Company and the Springfield Fire and Marine Insurance Company. When John Oldham and his companions in 1633 pushed westward over the Indian trail they reached "the Long River," where Spring- field now is. There they found a village of the Agawam Indians, whose Sachem "used them kindly" and gave them some beaver. The following year William Pynchon and his son probably visited this region. Pynchon, a man of gentle birth, had been a landed proprietor at Springfield, England, and was the founder in 1630 of Roxbury, Mass. He was too broad and open-minded to get on comfortably with the Bay Colony leaders, and after a brief period of uneasiness determined to move west. In the summer of 1635 he sent two men to the Connecticut valley to prepare a house at the place called Agawam. This first house was built on the site of West Springfield, but when Pynchon and his company arrived in the spring of 1636 he was advised by the friendly Indians that at high water that 128 SPRINGFIELD region was overflowed and consequently their settlement was estab- lished on the east bank. This was made a month before the 'Hooker- ites,' who reached Connecticut by another route, the old Connecticut Path, settled at Hartford. William Pynchon was an unusual man for his time. He wrote a book, "The Meritorious Price of Our Redemption," which was pub- lished in England. The General Court at Boston, suspecting hetero- dox opinions, tried the Book and it was condemned and executed by public burning in the Boston Market Place (1650), a holy orgy that must have delighted those narrow-minded bigots who thought they were thus serving God. This intolerance of the lovers of 'religious liberty' finally drove Pynchon back to England in 1652. His son, John Pynchon, however, remained the leading spirit of the settlement. His account books, still preserved in the city library, record that from 1652 to 1657 he bought from the Indians and shipped to London 9434 beaver skins, 320 otter skins, and other skins and furs in great quantity. The fur trade with the Indians afforded huge profits, even to hundreds per cent, and suggests that the desire for gain was as potent then as now. Springfield has the distinction of having discovered the first re- corded case of witchcraft in New England. Hugh Parsons was a somewhat cantankerous carpenter whose sharp tongue had made him enemies. Goody Parsons, his wife, no more sweet-tempered than her husband, made enemies on her own account. She was afflicted with occasional attacks of what we would today call insanity, which con- vinced her neighbors of her social intimacy with the devil. At her trial in 1651 she and her husband mutually accused each other of witchcraft, but both were acquitted of that charge. This episode has been utilized in Holland's story "The Bay Path." It was ten years later that witchcraft broke out at Hartford and Wethersfield, and forty years before the epidemic reached Salem. The Agawam Indians lived amicably with the settlers, and even at the outbreak of King Philip's War (1675) protested friendship. Their fort on Long Hill, a mile south of the settlement, stood on a plateau at the head of a ravine near the present Forest Park. They yielded to Philip's machinations, and, plotting to attack the settlement, secretly admitted 300 hostiles to their fort. The plot was revealed by Toto, a domesticated Indian in the household of the Walcott_ family at Windsor. A messenger was immediately dispatched to Springfield to warn the inhabitants, and Lieutenant Cooper and Thomas Miller rode out to the fort as scouts. As they approached, both were fired upon, Miller was killed, and Cooper, though mortally wounded, suc- ceeded in keeping his seat until he reached one of the fortified houses, where he fell dead. The Indians immediately fell upon the settlement, which then consisted of about forty dwellings mostly with thatched roofs. Pynchon and his train-band were then away in Hadley, and the settlers took refuge in the three fortified garrison houses. That of Major John Pynchon, built in 1660, was of brick with walls two feet thick, and stood an interesting relic of Colonial times until torn down by his descendants in 1831. Most of the houses and all of the barns and mills were burned. So great was the terror that the inhabitants were inclined to abandon the settlement, but Major Pynchon and the Bay State Governor stood strong for its maintenance as an outpost, and the male inhabitants were enrolled as state militia. The danger was so great that all that winter no one at Longmeadpw attempted to come to Springfield to church. Early _ the following spring a party of sixteen men on horseback with their women and children riding on pillions started from Longmeadow to attend church at Springfield under the escort of Captain Nixon and a party of soldiers. R. I 3. HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 129 At the foot of Long Hill where the road crosses Pecousic Brook they were attacked. The escort fled precipitately, but later, when it was learned how few were the Indians that caused this ambush, the mili- tary escort came in for sharp censure. The Captain's conduct was characterized as "a matter of great shame, humbling to us," and in- spired the couplet: "Seven Indians, and one without a Gun, Caused Captain Nixon and forty men to run." When the Rev. Robert Breck was called to the First Congregational Church in 1734 theological controversy had another inning at Spring- field. It became known to the Orthodox ministers that he had once had the temerity to say: "What will become of the heathen who never heard of the Gospel I do not pretend to say; but I cannot but indulge a hope that God, in his boundless benevolence, will find a way whereby those heathen who act up to the light they have may be saved." This shocking heresy caused an uproar of protest against , the installation of Breck. One of the most bitter of his opponents was the great Jonathan Edwards, author of the inviting picture of a hell paved with the skulls of unbaptized infants, and other pleasing studies in Calvinism. The controversy raged for two years, but Breck's friends stood by him bravely, with the result that he was eventually installed as pastor of the church. The hard times following the Revolution created much discontent among the poor farmers and bankrupt merchants of the Connecticut valley, and caused one uprising which threatened for a time to have serious consequences. Led by Daniel Shays, a farmer of the town of Pelham, near Amherst, this was known as "Shays' Rebellion." He had been a captain in the Continental Army, and conspicuous for personal bravery at Bunker Hill and Stony Point. In 1786 the Shays forces made a demonstration at Springfield in front of the Court House, the purpose being to prevent the meeting of the Court of Common Pleas. But there was no fighting, and the effort failed. On Jan. 25, 1786, Shays and his followers, to the number of about 1900, advanced on the Arsenal, which had been occupied by General William Shepard with about 1000 men, but at the first fire of the regulars the insurgents, who had advanced along the Boston road to about the present line of Federal St., broke and fled, leaving three dead. This was the end of the insurrection in any organized form. John Brown of Harper's Ferry fame lived at 31 Franklin St. from 1846 to 1849. Springfield contemporaries describe him as a mild-man- nered, smooth-faced man, with heavy black hair brushed straight back from his forehead. He was already very bold and bitter in his de- nunciation of slavery and was sure to speak at every meeting in the city at which that subject was discussed. He organized the 'Spring- field Gileadites' to resist the capture of fugitive slaves, and did much to make Springfield an important station on the famous 'Underground Railway' from Southern Slavery to Canadian Freedom. Many writers of more than local fame have lived a part or all of their lives in Springfield. Dr. Holland, whose connection with the "Republican" has already been mentioned, first published in that paper the "Timothy Titcomb Papers," " Gold Foil," his "History of Western Massachusetts," and a "Life of Lincoln." George Bancroft wrote the second volume of his "History of the United States" in the law offices of Judge Bosworth on Elm St., and the Rev. Dr. Washing- ton Gladden published several of his books and edited the "Sunday Afternoon" while he was pastor of the North Congregational Church (1874-82). But the best known literary achievement associated with Springfield undoubtedly is Webster's Dictionary, first published in 130 SPRINGFIELD PALMER 1828. When Webster died, in 1843, George and Charles Merriam bought the copyright of the Dictionary, which is still published here by the G. & C. Merriam Company. Route 13 enters Springfield from the Berkshires by way of the Westfield valley, and Route 10 continues up the Connecti- cut by the east and the west banks. R. 1 4. Springfield to Worcester. 51.0 m. Via PALMER and SPENCER. STATE ROAD, with red markers. This is a section of one of the principal east and west trunk lines through New England from the Hudson valley via Pitts- field to Boston. Carrying the traffic of two important trunk lines it is perhaps traversed by more vehicles than any one other route in the heart of New England. The splendid State Road all the way is unmistakable, marked by red bands on the telegraph poles. A few miles from Springfield the route enters the hills of the ancient crystalline highlands and follows the deep narrow valley of the Quaboag, the waterpower of which is utilized in a series of small industrial towns, then follows through a farming country with shoe towns to Worcester. Leave Springfield by State St., past the Library and the Arsenal, and at the fork of the two trolley lines follow the red bands on the telegraph poles. The barren sand plain covered with scrub growth on either side of the highway was originally called Springfield Plain. Just outside of Springfield, Athol Junction on the B. & A. R.R. marks the western terminus of those twin streaks of rust, formerly the Hampden Railroad, which though only fourteen miles long cost more than $3,300,000, the most expensive road per mile ever built in New England. It has stood for years completely equipped but never used, one more monument to the folly of Mellen management. The Hampden Railroad was built by the Woronoco Construction Company operating in connection with the Hampden Investment Company, both of which were controlled and financed by those who formerly had to do with other New Haven jobberies. Large loans were made on Mellen's verbal promises 'rubber stamped' by the B. & M. directors. Its purpose was to shorten by a few miles the direct route and bring the Central Massachusetts into use, and at the same time pay for obligations attaching to an unsuccessful New York enterprise, or, as they say, to kill two cows with one locomotive. Beyond St. Michael's Cemetery a road leads to the left to Indian Orchard, an industrial center; among its numerous plants The Chapman Valve Manufacturing Company is of national significance. The village received its name from the fact that after the attack in 1676 on Springfield 600 Indians bivouacked here for the night. The highway skirts Five Mile Pond and beyond Ludlow, the site of extensive twine and yarn mills, reaches the Chicopee river, which furnishes valuable water- R. I 4- SPRINGFIELD TO WORCESTER 131 power. Washington wrote in his Diary of this part of the route: "A little before the road descends to Chicopee river, it is hilly, rocky, and steep, and continues so for several miles; the country being stony and barren with a mixture of pine and oak till we come to Palmer." 10.0 NORTH WILBRAHAM. Alt 86 ft. (In Wilbraham twp.) Hampden Co. Mfg. paper and wood pulp. In stage coach days this was a favorite stopping place after the long climb up from the Connecticut valley. Near the North Wilbraham Station is the old Bliss Tavern, another of Washington's stopping places. On the floor of the former bar room, which was patronized freely by the Revolutionary soldiers, are pointed out the scars of the musket butts. Note. About two miles to the south lies WILBRAHAM. Pop (twp) 2332 (1910), 2521 (1915). Settled 1730. Indian name Minnechaug, "berry-land." This little town, originally called Springfield Mountain, is strung along at the foot of the Wilbraham Mountains, which rise sharply behind the town to a height of 900 feet, and the broad meadows before it give the place a setting of remarkable beauty. The country hereabout is one of the best peach dis- tricts in New England. The State Game Farm specializes in pheasants, but also raises some quail and wild turkeys, and makes shipments of eggs for breeding. In 1915 about 5000 birds were put forth. Wilbraham Academy, now a boys' school, had its beginnings in 1817 as one of the first Methodist coeducational schools. Between North Wilbraham and Palmer the road leaves the river and runs through a narrow valley in the hills. There are several dangerous railroad, crossings and bridges. For several miles on either side of Palmer we have constantly in sight a newly constructed railroad road-bed, deep cuttings, and high embankments, constructed at enormous expense but without rails or other equipment. This Southern New England R.R. was planned to reach tidewater at Providence or New London, but was finally killed by the machinations of railroad directors who controlled New England's destinies. Just before entering Palmer a great elm is passed, under which, according to the inscription, Washington addressed the townspeople in 1775. 15.5 PALMER. Alt 332 ft. Pop (twp) 8610 (1910), 9468 (1915). Hampden Co. Settled 1716. Mfg. carpets, copper, tin, and sheet iron products, cotton goods, and wire. Palmer though an industrial town has a mellow, almost elderly appearance. Its mills and factories are strung along the course of the stream wherever waterpower is available. 132 PALMER BROOKFIELD The hills rise abruptly above the narrow valley to a height of from 700 to 900 feet. Bald Peak to the south is the highest, but Mt. Dumpling to the north is striking in its abruptness. At the State Fish Hatchery here nine kinds of game fish are reared, among them trout, salmon, perch, pike, and bass. The enormous pine, known as 'Bear Tree,' next the Catholic parish house is 17 ft in circumference and 100 ft high. Tradition accounts for its name with the tale that Thomas King, the son of the earliest settler, shot a bear in this tree on his way to church and was brought to task for violating the Puritan Sabbath. Emigrants from Ireland settled here at 'The Elbows' in 1727 when the town was renamed for Chief Justice Palmer. In 1748 the town was called Kingston to perpetuate the name of the first settler, and at various times it bore the names of Kingstown, Kingsfield, and New Marlborough. Just beyond Palmer a side valley opens to the south, through which runs the railroad to New London. On the slope of Chicopee Mountain is the State Farm and Alms House, a col- lection of 'institution-like' buildings with a factory chimney. The highway follows the narrow valley of the Quaboag river and affords picturesque views of the river with its dams and small factories. Of this road, Washington says in his Diary, "From Palmer to Brookfield, to one Hitchcock's is 17 miles; part of which is pretty good, and part (crossing the hills) very bad; but when over, the ground begins to get tolerably good and the country better cultivated." This portion of the valley is especially narrow and deep. Cook's Mountain (1000 ft) is an abrupt hill on the right. Just beyond West Warren (24.5) is isolated Mark's Mountain (noo ft). 26.7 WARREN. Alt 596 ft. Pop (twp) 4188 (1910), 4268 (1915). Worcester Co. Originally called Western. Inc. 1740. Mfg. cotton goods, paper, and machine shop products. The most conspicuous object in the town here is the yellow brick Town Hall. Two miles of factories extend along the valley, the principal plant being that of the International Steam Pump Works. Perhaps the town's most interesting institution is that surviving from earlier times, "The Warren Thief-Catching Society," formed in the days following the Revolution to assist in the maintenance of law and order. It has in its later days become a social institution, restricting its membership to those who can show reasonably law-abiding tendencies for several generations. The Quaboags were the aboriginal tribe, and when they were as- sailed by other stronger tribes they appealed to Massasoit for help and he came to live with them as sachem until his death in 1661. During his regime the locality was known as Squapauke, or Squabaug, mean- ing "red water place," in reference to the peculiar color of the ponds which are so frequent in this vicinity. The land was first known to the white men in 1647, when the Indians made a request to the colonists R. I 4- SPRINGFIELD TO WORCESTER 133 for help against the attacks of the bloodthirsty members of other tribes, probably the Narragansetts and Monhegans. Nathan Reed, a native of the town, was the first man to apply for a patent under the Constitution for the first machine for making nails. He also was among the first to apply steam to locomotives. Crossing R.R. the route proceeds along the fairly level road with hills rising to 1000 feet on the right and the Quaboag river about two miles to the left. 30.0 WEST BROOKFIELD. Alt 604 ft. Pop (twp) 1327 (1910), 1288 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1665. Mfg. corsets. Here George and Charles Merriam carried on their print- ing and publishing business in a brick building opposite the Library, erected by their father a century ago, and here they issued several hundred thousand volumes before moving their plant to Springfield. In the Library, presented to the town by the Merriams, is an interesting historical collection. A short distance beyond is the Town Hall, and at the further end of Quaboag Park stands Hitchcock's Tavern (Ye Old Tavern), which opened in 1765 and has never since closed its doors. The oil paintings of the first proprietors may be seen at the rooms of the West Brookfield Historical Society at the Library. Here Washington and Lafayette were guests. Just beyond is the house in which Professor Phelps, the father of Elizabeth Stuart Phelps Ward, used to live. Lucy Stone Blackwell, one of the earliest woman suffragists, was born on Coy's Hill. Foster Hill, east of the village, was the site of the first settle- ment. The tavern of Sergeant John Ayres which stood on the top of the hill was once the object of Indian attack which lasted for several days. The present road winds around the hill, but the Old Post Road went over the top past Indian Rock Farm where sites of the first houses are marked by tablets. There is also a boulder marked "Whitefield Rock, 1740," in memory of George Whitefield, the evangelist, who addressed the townspeople here in 1741. The old D wight Tavern stood a little further down the road. The road from here follows the red markers through a broad open valley whose rich farm lands early attracted settlers. Before entering Brookfield on the right stands the Brookfield Inn, a relic of Colonial days. 33.0 BROOKFIELD. Alt 606ft. Pop (twp) 2204 (1910), 2059 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1665. Indian name Quaboag. Mfg. shoes, paper goods, and woolen and cotton goods. The village of Brookfield lies in the midst of broad meadows on a slight elevation overlooking them and the surrounding ponds. The Common, presented to the town by Seth and Solomon Bannister in 1773, was the rallying place of the patriots. The Town Hall and Memorial Library have since 134 BROOKFIELD LEICESTER been given to the town by other members of the Bannister family. Brookfield was at one time the home of Rufus Put- nam (see Rutland, R. 19), whom Washington declared to be the best engineer in the whole of his army. In 1660 the General Court granted to some Ipswich petitioners "a place near Quaboag ponds provided they have twenty familyes there resident within 3 yeares & they have an able minister settled there within the same term." The Indians made compliance with these terms impossible and it was not until 1665 that any attempt at settle- ment was made. From 1665 to 1675 whites and reds led a peaceful existence, and many of the latter were followers of John Eliot, but Philip and the restless Nipmucks in 1675 induced most of them to join an attack upon the little settlement. Four or five settlers were killed at Mendon in July, and the powers at Boston sent Captain Hutchinson, son of Anne, and a company of men to confer with the Indians and bring about an amicable settlement, but they were ambushed, several were killed in- cluding Captain Hutchinson, and the settlement attacked. Among the attacking party were many of John Eliot's Christian Indians, and of them Captain Wheeler wrote: "The next day being August 3rd they continued shooting and shouting and proceeded in their former wickedness, blaspheming the name of the Lord and reproaching us, his afflicted servants, scoffing at our prayers as they were sending in shot upon all quarters of the house and many of them went to the town's meeting house, who mocked, saying, 'come and pray and sing psalms.'" The relieving forces finally came to the rescue of the beleaguered settlers, but not until many of the houses as well as their live stock had been destroyed, and it was necessary to temporarily abandon the town. Leaving Brookfield the road crosses Dunn Brook, which flows into Quaboag Pond. Just before entering East Brook- field (621 ft), Furnace Pond is passed on the left, and Teneriffe Hill (880 ft) rises to the right. Spencer is seen from a long distance as we approach it. Like all these New England hill manufacturing towns its most conspicuous features are the huge Catholic Churches, two in number, one for the French, the other for the Irish. Just outside the town in the Bemis Memorial Park are two monu- ments, one marking the location of the first frame house in .Spencer, built by Samuel Bemis in 1721, the other in honor of Edmund Bemis, who served at Louisburg. 40.0 SPENCER. Alt 900 ft. Pop (twp) 6740 (1910), 5994 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1713. Mfg. shoes, boxes, and wire. Spencer, though high on the hills and far from the main rail- way, is a thriving shoe town with a large foreign population. On Main St. opposite the Hotel Massasoit a granite marker indi- cates the site of the old Jenks Tavern and the fact that in 1776 Washington stopped there overnight. Opposite the Town Hall is the handsome Howe memorial with bronze medallions of the three inventors and a bronze relief of the house in which they were born in the south of the town. Tyler Howe (b. 1800) R. I 4- SPRINGFIELD TO WORCESTER 135 invented the spring bed, William Howe (b. 1803), his brother, was the inventor of the truss frame used in bridges and roofs, and Elias'Howe (b. 1819), a nephew of the former, was the inventor of the sewing machine. Elias spent many years en- deavoring to popularize and protect his invention. His visits to England, his financial support of the Federal Government in the Civil War, and his eventual success and acquirement of a large fortune make an interesting romance in the history of industry. The Pope Mansion, built in 1745, was the lodging place of the colonel of a Hessian regiment of Burgoyne's army when on the way to Boston as a prisoner of war. The pioneer of the boot industry in Spencer was Josiah Green, who before 1812 used to peddle the shoes he had made, in Boston. The War of 1812 stimulated his business and it grew to large proportions. The Proutys have, however, for three generations dominated the shoe industry in this town, and still operate here one of the largest shoe factories in the country, employing 1500 hands. . A mile from Spencer is Wire Village, where for nearly a century there have been wire mills. In the old coaching days Spencer was a famous stopping place. It had three taverns which did a_ thriving business. The oldest was built in 1754 by John Flagg, and in 1775 it came into the hands of Isaac Jenks, who made it famous. It was described by a traveler in 1788: "The chambers were neat, the beds good, the sheets clean, the supper passable; cider, tea, punch, and all for fourteen pence per head." East of Spencer, Moose Hill (1050 ft), a gently swelling drumlin bare of trees, is crowned by the Sibley residence. The rounded drumlin hills in this region usually have their summits cleared while their lower slopes are wooded. This bears evi- dence to the fact, early discovered by New England settlers, that these drumlins afforded good plow lands. The red- marked State Road between Spencer and Leicester crosses the highest land east of the Connecticut valley, but the only steep hill is just before entering Leicester. 45.0 LEICESTER. Alt 1080 ft. Pop (twp) 3237 (1910), 3322 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1713. Indian name Towtaid. Mfg. woolens and worsteds. This pleasant old town is now almost wholly residential, al- though there are some factories in villages connected with the town. This, the central village, is located in a sightly situation on the top of a high hill. The Mansion House on Mt. Pleasant was built in 1772 by Joseph Henshaw and in 1795 became the property of James Swan, who set up an estate of such mag- nificence as to dazzle all beholders. However, his wealth failed and he withdrew to France, where he was imprisoned for debt hi Paris for thirty-two years and one day, all of which he spent in the same room in the Debtors' Prison. 136 LEICESTER WORCESTER Leicester was purchased from Sachem Orakaso for fifteen pounds by "Nine Gentlemen from Roxbury" in 1686. Seven years later, when the settlement was finally established, there was a solitary hermit by the name of Arthur Casey found in a cave which he had made in the side of the hill that to this day bears his name. As late as 1740, pits were dug for the capture of wolves. In 1777 a colony of seventy Jews from Newport, disliking the warlike atmosphere of their Rhode Island home, settled here for a time, but returned to Newport at the close of the war. The first representative to the General Court was Judge John Menzies, who served three terms without pay, and when his successor was chosen the town voted that he "should be paid the same as Judge Menzies, and no other." The Old Post Road, sometimes called the Great Post Road, or the County Road, which ran between Boston and Albany, went through the town, although its course has been greatly changed in the last few years. Over this road the volunteers from the western part of the State marched through the night to Lexington, and the people of the town kept their houses lighted and their doors open to cheer them on their way. One of the patriots, Thomas Earle, had a home-made gun which General Washington admired so that Earle made a duplicate of it and walked to New York to present it to his commander-in-chief. Leicester Academy, established in 1784, was one of the earliest and most notable of the New England academies, for here were introduced many educational innovations. From Leicester the road descends gradually to Worcester, in the southern part of which was located Jones's Tavern, a famous oldtime coaching place. Main Street in Worcester fol- lows the course of the Old Post Road as far as Lincoln Square. 51.0 WORCESTER. Alt 482 ft (City Hall). Pop 145,986 (1910), 160,117 (1915); about one third foreign-born. Seat of Worcester Co. Settled 1713. Indian name Quinsigamond , "pickerel fishing place." Mfg. wire, machine tools, grinding wheels, drop forges, carpets, leather, corsets, shoes, looms, envelopes, skates, vacuum cleaners, electric cars, elevators. Value of Product (1913), $89,707,000; Payroll, $19,887,000. Worcester, the 'Heart of the Commonwealth,' as it loves to call itself, is second only to Boston among Massachusetts cities and third among New England cities. Both as an in- dustrial and educational center it manifests vigorous enter- prise and great diversity, with products ranging from en- velopes to organs, and providing instruction in such diverse subjects as child psychology and mechanical engineering. In the past two decades it has doubled in wealth and population and tripled the value of its products. This development has been greatly stimulated by the activity of the Chamber of Commerce, which publishes the "Worcester Magazine" dis- tributing 30,000 copies annually, sending one to every U.S. consul as well as to purchasing agents all over the world. The city has spread from its original level site upon the sur- rounding higher land, and now boasts that like Rome it is R. I 4- SPRINGFIELD TO WORCESTER 137 built on its Seven Hills. The numerous parks aggregate noo acres in area. As the first city in the country to purchase and set aside land for park purposes Worcester deserves the com- pliments of the nation. The Blackstone river provides some power for manufacturing purposes. The largest industry is that of the American Steel & Wire Com- pany. Its plant has three divisions : the North Works, on Grove St.; the Central Works, on Kansas St.; and the South Works, on Millbury St. The industry dates from 1834, when Ichabod Washburn and Benjamin Goddard first started the manufac- ture of wire with half a dozen men. It was the hoop skirt that made his fortune. During the height of the fashion he made thirty tons of hoop skirt wire a week. About 6000 hands are employed and the maximum output for a single year approxi- mates 200,000 tons with a value of over $12,000,000. The Crompton & Knowles Loom Works has the largest plant of its kind, and its success is based on the inventive skill of its founders. The Norton Company is the largest manufacturer of abrasives and grinding wheels in the world. The Royal Worcester Corset Company is another important industry. Seventy-five per cent of the drop-forged automobile crank shafts and eighty per cent of all the bicycle chains made in America are Worcester productions. The first envelopes made in America were folded here, and the industry continues. The Old Common, in the center of the city, was the training ground of the Minute Men. In the center is a marble memorial to Colonel Timothy Bigelow, a Revolutionary officer, and a Soldiers' Monument. At the upper end of the Common is the City Hall, a dignified granite building in front of which is Daniel Chester French's statue of Worcester's famous adopted son, the late Senator George Frisbie Hoar. It was near the site of this statue that the Declaration of Independence was first read to the people in the State of Massachusetts. At the north end of Main St. is the County Court House, standing somewhat back upon a granite terrace on which is a statue of General D evens, a Worcester lawyer who won his military laurels in the Civil War and later became Attorney- general of the United States. Close by is a tablet marking the site of the school where John Adams taught. Opposite is the Exchange Hotel where Washington put up. On Elm St. near Main St., a tablet on the wall of Poli's Theatre marks the site of the Stearns Tavern, famous in pre- Revolutionary times. Further up this street are many fine old houses, among them the Lincoln, Bullock, and Thayer mansions, and the Burnside and Foster houses. Lincoln Square, which perpetuates the name of the Lincoln 138 WORCESTER family, among Worcester's most prominent citizens, was long the center of trade and of civic and religious life. On the north side of the square is the old Salisbury mansion, a fine type of Colonial house whose liberal breadth gives it a hos- pitable appearance, now the property of the Art Museum. On Salisbury St. to the left above Lincoln Square is a group of fine buildings including the Armory, the Worcester Society of Antiquity, a library chiefly of town histories and genealogies, and the Women's Club. The Art Museum, close by, is third in the United States in endowment. Its collections contain some especially choice examples of European and American art, among which are works by Copley, Herrera, Inness, Mo- reelse, Raeburn, and Gilbert Stuart, as well as rare engravings, and the Bancroft Japanese collection. The summer loan exhibitions of the work of American artists are notable. The new building of the American Antiquarian Soci- ety, at the corner of Salisbury St. and Park Ave., founded in 1812, was erected from funds left by the late Stephen Salisbury. It contains a priceless collection of Ameri- SALISBURY HOUSE, WORCESTER cana and is especially rich in files of old newspapers. On this same street, opposite Massachusetts Ave., is a tablet marking the site of the house of George Bancroft, the Ameri- can historian. On the summit of the hill, in Bancroft Park, which includes the old Bancroft farm, is Bancroft Tower, from which there is an extensive view including Mt. Wachusett and Mt. Monadnock to the north. Worcester has seven important educational institutions. Clark University, a mile and a half south of the center of the city on Main St., was founded in 1887 for the purpose of re- search. Its President is Dr. G. Stanley Hall, the psychologist and educational authority, under whose regime the University has attained a high reputation for its investigation of child psychology. Clark College for undergraduates was opened in 1902. The College of the Holy Cross, a Jesuit institution, with a preparatory school, founded in 1843, is on Mt. St. James, or Packachoag Hill. Worcester Polytechnic Institute, one of the leading technical schools of the country, on Boynton St. opposite Institute Park, was founded in 1865 by a gift of $100,000 from John Boynton, and was opened in 1868. Its R. I 4- SPRINGFIELD TO WORCESTER 139 President is Dr. Ira N. Hollis, who was formerly in the Navy and later professor of engineering at Harvard College. It special- izes in the scientific management of manufacturing industries: the course requires both theory and practice, books and shop- work; time cards, payrolls, and lost motion in employees as well as in machines are among its subjects of study and re- search. The Worcester Boys' Trade School in Armory Square, supported by State and city, is the largest and best school of its kind in the country on a free basis. Worcester Academy, on Providence St., is a large boys' preparatory school. The State Normal School and its ally the Kindergarten Training School are on Normal St. and Eastern Ave. An annual institution in Worcester is the Music Festival, held every year since 1858, for a larger number of years than any other annual festival in the country. Elm Park, at the junction of Highland and Pleasant Sts., was the first tract of land purchased with public funds for park purposes by any municipality in the United States. Green Hill Park, off Lincoln St., is one of the prettiest natural pleasure grounds in the State; it was formerly a private estate, and the mansion house is a social center, rented for parties and lectures at a nominal charge. Worcester and the country within a radius of fifteen miles have given to the world Eli Whitney, inventor of the cotton gin; Ichabod Washburn, who made the first piano wire drawn in America; Erastus Bigelow, inventor of the carpet machine; Thomas Blanchard, in- ventor of the machine lathe for turning irregular forms; George Crompton, inventor of the power loom for weaving fancy cottons; Charles Thurber, who invented the first typewriter, 1843; J. C. Stoddard, who invented the first steam calliope; Asa Hapgood, who invented the upper berth in the sleeping car; Osgood Bradley, who established the first car works still in existence in America. Among Worcester's famous residents was Elihu Burritt, the learned black- smith, who knew more than fifty languages ancient and modern, but deserves greater fame as the organizer of the first international peace conference, Brussels, 1848. John B. Gough, though born in England, reached his greatest depths of degradation in Worcester and likewise began the reformation which resulted in his remarkable career as a successful temperance lecturer. As a scientific and literary center the city today is the home of Dr. W. E. Storey, the mathematician; Dr. A. G. Webster, the scientist; Harry Worcester Smith, the financier and horseman; Eben Francis Thompson, the translator of Omar Khayyam; William B. Scofield, the sculptor-poet; and Harry H. Chamberlin, the poet. Edward Everett Hale, Thomas Wentworth Higginson, Eli Thayer, who saved Kansas to the Union, and Clara Barton, founder of the Red Cross, have also lived in Worcester. The first grant of land in this part of the Blackstone valley was made in 1657, and the town, called Quinsigamond, was laid out in 1688. On the outbreak of King Philip's War it was abandoned, and though the settlers made several attempts to return it was not until 1713 that settlement became permanent. By 1722 Worcester was in- corporated as a town, receiving its name from Worcester, England, whence some of its first inhabitants came. The rugged turnpike was 140 WORCESTER SHREWSBURY opened all the way to Boston and travel was fairly frequent, but packs of wolves roamed close to the town as late as 1734. In 1755 a small band of exiles from Acadie, the 'land of Evangeline,' was located here. After the Revolution, in the feeble strife of Shays' Rebellion, traces of which have followed us hither from Springfield, the town was taken by the insurgents, who closed the courts and held sway for a short time. Brissot de Warville, the French traveler, visiting Worces- ter in 1788, says: "This town is elegant and well peopled. The printer, Isaiah Thomas, has rendered it famous throughout the Conti- nent of America. He has printed a large part of the works which ap- pear, and it is acknowledged that his editions are correct and well edited. Thomas is the Didot of the United States." Dwight a few years later indorsed this opinion. Route 12 from New London to Peterboro and Concord, N.H., and Route 19 from Providence to Manchester, Vt., and Fort Ticonderoga pass through Worcester, and Route n, from Stafford Springs and Southbridge, terminates here. R. 1 5. Worcester to Boston. 44.0 m. Via MARLBORO. STATE ROAD with red markers. The route from Worcester to Boston traverses an undulating region, largely given over to agriculture and residential es- tates, Marlboro being the one industrial town of importance. Routes 19 and 24 combined afford a pleasant variant. The State Road follows closely the course of the Old Boston Post Road which was built in 1808 by John Pease, who obtained the first State charter for a turnpike. Before that time the Post Road was a county road which followed the original course of the Indian trails regardless of bounds or compass. The new turnpike was built almost parallel to the old road and in Shrewsbury about a mile from it. Notwithstanding the increased tolls it was such an improvement over the old that it soon became the more traveled, and numerous taverns sprang up along its course. Leaving Worcester City Hall the route follows Front St. under R.R. On the right is the new Union Station erected in 1913 at a cost of $1,500,000. Providence St. to the right leads to Worcester Academy, a large boys' preparatory school originally founded by the Baptists in 1832. At Wash- ington Square the road bears left with trolley past the tall square granite tower of the old railway station, erected in 1875. Beyond the road widens appreciably and is divided by a grass plot through which the trolley runs. The road ascends a long grade. On Millstone Hill to the left are the beautiful buildings and grounds of the State Hospital for the Insane. This was the first State Asylum in the country, its establish- ment following the suggestion of Horace Mann in 1829 that the State should care for the insane, who previously had been confined in county jails. Lake Quinsigamond is crossed by a causeway at about its middle. The lake is a strip of water about six miles long with an area of over 1000 acres and a R. I 5- WORCESTER TO BOSTON 141 maximum depth of ninety feet. It is a popular canoeing place, and on its shores are many summer homes and camps. On the Shrewsbury side is the White City, a local amusement resort. The Harvard- Yale boat races were held here (1860- 69) in the days when 'Prexy' Eliot was a member of the crew. Now the only racing is by the crews of local clubs and high schools. The road ascends Shrewsbury Hill (600 ft). To the north there is a fine view of Mt. Wachusett (2000 ft) with a house on the summit. On the left is the large estate of C. H. Hutchins, president of the Crompton & Knowles Loom Works. 5.5 SHREWSBURY. Alt 700 ft. Pop 2794. Worcester Co. Settled 1717. Mfg. leather. Though primarily a residential suburb of Worcester, with large farms on its borders, there still lingers here some manu- facturing. On the Common in the center of the town is a little brick school house which has been in use since 1830, and at the opposite end a boulder in front of the Town Hall com- memorates the march of 128 men from the town in response to the alarm at Lexington. In the church beside the old school house, John B. Gough, the noted temperance lecturer of the nineteenth century, delivered his first lecture. For many years all events, social and political, were held in the vestry of the old church, which later became the Lyceum when that institution became popular. Further on, a tablet on the right marks the site where "Luther Goddard, a noted clock maker, established the first factory for the making of American watches, about 1790." The leather factory across the road has been in continuous operation since 1803. Near the foot of the hill stands General Artemas Ward's house. Ward at the outbreak of the Revolution was in com- mand of the Massachusetts troops until the arrival of Wash- ington. It was Ward who suggested and executed the fortifica- tion of Dorchester Heights. After the Battle of Bunker Hill he was severely censured for his failure to send troops to the sup- port of Prescott, but he really showed wisdom and caution in not risking the whole of the provincial fores at Bunker Hill. Half a mile beyond at a fork in the roads stands Farrar's Tavern, the most historic of the three old taverns of the town. It originally belonged to John Farrar, whose little daughter when Washington first stopped there exclaimed in disappoint- ment: "Why, he is nothing but a man!" The inn was later bought by Levi Pease, the 'Father of the Stage Coach' and the most famous innkeeper, stage driver and owner of the coaching days. He it was who in 1783 opened the first coach line from Boston to Hartford, which was later extended 142 SHREWSBURY MARLBORO through to New York. Before long he made the journey from Boston to Worcester in one day and through to New York in six. The fare was at first fourpence, and later threepence a mile, making the charge between $18 and $20 through to New York. It was through his influence and his example that the turnpike roads, a great improvement over the old highway, were instituted. He drove the coach until old age forced him to retire, just before his death in 1824. Shrewsbury was settled by people from Marlboro in 1717 under a grant which provided that "they number forty families, build them- selves houses and settle an orthodox minister within three years." In the eighteenth century there were some eccentric characters in the town. 'Old Brazil' (Basil Mann) was an Indian who had spent his early days as a pirate. Another was one Tombolin about whom many rhymes and doggerels were made: "Tombolin had no breeches to wear, So he got his mother to make him a pair Flesh side out and wool side in, They're warmer so, says Tombolin." Richard Grimes of Hubbardston used to come over to Shrewsbury for convivial purposes, and his memory has been perpetuated in the verses of Albert C. Green, the first of which follows: "Old Grimes is dead, that good old man, We ne'er shall see him more, He used to wear a long-tailed coat All buttoned down before." During stage coach days there were three good inns here. Probably the oldest of these was Baldwin's, where in 1727 General Artemas Ward was born. It later became the rendezvous of sympathizers with Shays' Rebellion, who used the lawn in front as a drill ground. 10.0 NORTHBORO. Alt 311 ft. Pop (twp) 1713 (1910), 1797 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1700. Mfg. shoddy, woolens and worsteds, foundry and machine shop products. The highway to Boston is the main street of the village and is lined on either side by fine old homes and spreading elms. This old town on the Assabet river is given over largely to dairy farming and the raising of apples, industries which have attracted a considerable number of French Canadians. In 1884 a portion of the skeleton of a mastodon was un- earthed about six feet below the surface on the property of W. U. Maynard, not far from the Shrewsbury line. This is the first and only proof of the existence of the mastodon in the country east of the Hudson (p 29). About two miles beyond the town a tablet on the right marks the site of the Goodnow Garrison House. A large boulder with one side suitably engraved, on the sidehill about 300 yards southeast of the site, marks the spot where Mary Goodnow was killed by Indians. In August, 1707, two women, Mrs. Fay and Mary Goodnow, were culling herbs in the meadow when a party of twenty-four Indians R. I 5- WORCESTER TO BOSTON 143 approached them from the woods. Mrs. Fay made her escape to the garrison and aided the sentinel on duty to defend it until the arrival of the townsmen who were at work in the fields. The following day in a furious conflict at Sterling nine of the Indians were killed. In the pack of one was found the scalp of Mary Goodnow, whose lameness had prevented her escape on the previous day. Soon afterward her body was found and buried here. The route lies through a verdant farming country. To the north is the village of Chapinville, part of Northboro, at the confluence of the Assabet river and Stirrup Brook. On the left appear the stone arches of the Metropolitan aqueduct. The road, marked in red, ascends a gently sloping hill (400 ft) and follows the shore of Lake Williams. On the shore to the right is the old Gates Tavern established in 1662, the oldest commercial house in the country. The original house was built in 1662 but was burned by the Indians in 1676. The present building was erected the following year by Lieutenant Abraham Williams and called Williams Tavern except for a period during the nineteenth century when it was called the Gates House. It became one of the three stopping places between Boston and Worcester when the second stage coach line in the country was established in 1772. For some years the front parlor served as the court room and in the cellar are two brick cells where prisoners were confined. Captain Edward Hutchinson, who was mortally wounded by the Indians at Brookfield, was brought here to die. His was the first grave in the old churchyard. The Due de la Rochefoucauld stopped here for five days during an illness, and in his diary pays tribute to the kind treatment he received. Washington on his trium- phal tour of 1789 was entertained here by the town authorities. 15. S MARLBORO. Alt 400 ft. Pop 14,579 (1910), 15,250 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1656. Indian names Ockoocangan- sett and Whipsuppenicke. Highest city in the State. Mfg. shoes, shoe dies, boxes, foundry and machine shop products; printing and publishing. Value of Product (19 13), $9, 48 1,000; Payroll, $2,027,000. This busy little city with its attractive streets and hand- some public buildings is said to be the world's sixth shoe town. It is the most western city of the Massachusetts shoe belt and the Rice & Hutchins, Ashby-Crawford, John A. Frye, O'Keefe, and Howe Shoe Companies have factories here which turn out approximately 20,000 pairs a day. In 1905 the value of the shoe output was $7,468,000. Entering the city from the west, on the left at the corner of Main and Pleasant Sts. is the Rev. Aaron Smith house. The Library stands on the site of the house of Rev. Asa Packard, father of the celebrated entomologist of Brown University. Opposite the Soldiers' Monument in Monument Square is the G.A.R. Hall, in front of which is the John Brown bell, brought from Harper's Ferry, which he planned to ring to signal the rising of the slaves. In 1861 it was seized by Fed- eral soldiers from Marlboro, who left it at Williamsport, Va., 144 MARLBORO SOUTH SUDBURY where it remained until the G.A.R. reunion at Washington, 1892. Some of the veterans recalled the incident and went to Williamsport in search of it. Finding it intact they shipped it home in triumph. Ockoocangansett Hill to the north is said to have been an Indian burying ground and 'planting field.' To the southeast is Pine Hill on the shores of Reservoir Number Five of the Metropolitan Water System. At some time previous to 1665 the apostle Eliot had secured a grant of land from the General Court to the Indians, quaintly enough, where some of his converts built a village called Ockoocangansett, on the hill still known by this name. It was one of the seven principal 'praying towns' of Rev. John Eliot's Indians. Daniel Gookin wrote in 1676: "This village contains about ten families, and consequently about fifty souls. It hath several good orchards on it planted by the In- dians. Their ruler here was Onomog who is lately deceased." Fol- lowing the prevailing custom of the time the first meeting house was built upon a hill. In March, 1676, the Rev. Asa Packard says, "On the Sabbath when Mr. Brimsmead was in sermon, the worshipping assembly was suddenly dispersed by an outcry of 'Indians at the door' . . . but the God whom they were worshipping shielded their lives and limbs, excepting the arm of one Moses Newton. In a few minutes they were sheltered in their fort, with the mutual feelings peculiar to such a scene." From the garrison house they witnessed the destruc- tion of their homes, though powerless to act. Following this event the town was deserted for a time, but the following year the settlers re- turned. After the abandonment of Brookfield this was the western- most town till the Connecticut was reached. Some of the early spellings of the town, "Marlberg" and "Marlbridge," would indicate that the name was derived from the presence of marl in the neighborhood. The route follows Main St. past the City Hall, on the right, and one of the large shoe factories. At the end of the street the road to the right leads to Southboro where the Southboro Arms is located. Our route follows a branch trolley line to the left as indicated by the red bands on the telegraph poles. The road emerges from the woods and crosses a drowsy little brook into a sylvan opening studded with enormous oaks. "A region of repose it seems, A place of slumber and of dreams, Remote among the wooded hills." In the midst of a sparsely settled tract far from other houses, back from the road, which some years ago was altered to afford dooryard, stands The Wayside Inn (20.6) in the town of Sudbury. A famous old tavern in Colonial days, Longfellow by his "Tales of a Wayside Inn" has made it better known than any other American hostelry. "As ancient is this hostelry As any in the land may be, Built in the old Colonial day, When men lived in a grander way, With ampler hospitality." R. I 5- WORCESTER TO BOSTON 145 Here are shown the historic chambers occupied by Washing- ton, Lafayette, and Longfellow, furnished in the style of the period. The interesting old tap room retains its original form. The proprietor since 1897, Edward R. Lemon, is an anti- quarian who has here brought together an interesting collec- tion of oldtime furniture, utensils, books, and prints. About 1700 David Howe received a grant of 130 acres here and began the erection of a house. The Howes, who came of good English stock, lost their fortune and took to inn-keeping. Colonel Ezekiel Howe succeeded in 1746 and reigned as landlord for half a century. He hung out the sign board with the red horse, and Howe's Tavern be- came the Red Horse Tavern. During the French and Indian Wars, as it was on the main route from Boston to Albany, it was frequently the halting place for troops. In 1706 Adam Howe became the pro- prietor and in 1836 was succeeded by Lyman Howe, who died in 1860, when the old house ceased to be a tavern, after a record of 160 years under four landlords. It was the last Howe who greeted Longfellow when he came to the inn. "Grave in his aspect and attire; A man of ancient pedigree, A Justice of the Peace was he, Known in all Sudbury as 'The Squire.'" The poet's first visit was in 1840 of which he writes: "The stage left Boston at about three o'clock in the morning, reaching the Sudbury tavern for breakfast, a considerable portion of the route being travelling in total darkness, and without your having the least idea who your companion inside might be." The cheer he met brought him frequently thereafter, and he made this the scene of the Canterbury Tales of American literature. The narrators of the "Tales" have been identified as the poet's friends who gathered here with him: Henry Wales was the "Student of old books and ways"; Luigi Monti, American consul at Palermo, the young Sicilian, "in sight of Etna born and bred"; Professor Treadwell, the "Theologian, from the school of Cambridge on the Charles"; T. W. Parsons, translator of Dante, was the poet; and Ole Bull, the famous violinist, was the blue-eyed Norseman who sang "The Saga of King Olaf" and played his Stradivarius, "a marvel of the lutist's art." Beyond the Inn, by the roadside a tablet marks the site of the old Parmenter garrison house, built before 1686. To the south Nobscot Hill (602 ft), a mountainous, wooded mass, rises precipitately. On its slopes is a famous spring whose waters are extensively bottled. 23.0 SOUTH SUDBURY. Alt 130 ft. Pop (Sudbury twp) 1120 (1910), 1206 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1638. Indian name Musketaquid. South Sudbury is probably the most important of the Sud- bury villages. On Green Hill to the northeast are two monuments commemorating the massacre of 1676. The earlier was erected by President Wadsworth of Harvard Col- lege, whose father was captain of the ambushed troops. In 1852, the second of these, a granite shaft, was erected bear- ing this inscription: "This monument is erected by the Com- 146 SOUTH SUDBURY WESTON monwealth of Massachusetts and by the town of Sudbury in grateful remembrance of the service and sufferings of the founders of the state . . . who fell near this spot . . . while de- fending the frontier settlement against the allied Indian forces of Philip of Pokanoket." Sudbury Center lies a mile and a half to the north. A mile to the north of this is Whitehall, the summer home of Ralph Adams Cram, the Boston architect, whose cult is the Gothic, and who has demonstrated his genius notably at Princeton and West Point. Like the surrounding towns Sudbury is rapidly being transformed from an agricultural community into a region of gentlemen's suburban estates. Joe Chandler, restorer of the Old South Church and the Old State House, lives here. Some men of Watertown complaining of the "straightness of ac- commodation and want of meadow" were granted land here in 1638. The first settlement was on the east side of Sudbury river, in what is now Wayland. On the outbreak of King Philip's War, the day after the Indians had burned the deserted houses at Marlboro they attacked Sudbury, then a frontier town, killed several, and burned a number of houses and barns. In the graphic words of Mather, "Mischief was done and several lives cut off by the Indians." Captain Wadsworth with seventy men who had been sent to the aid of Marlboro learned that the Indians had turned on Sudbury. Marching post haste in that direction he was led into an ambush on Green Hill near the site of the monument. The woods were set on fire, the little band sur- rounded, and only about twelve of them escaped. Many of those captured were subjected to horrible tortures. In 1776 Sudbury was the most populous town in Middlesex County and took a prominent part in the pre-Revolutionary events. More Revolutionary soldiers lie buried in Sudbury cemetery than in any other in the State. From South Sudbury the route lies across the marshy meadows of the Sudbury river. To the south of the road and just west of the river is Heard 's Island, a low drumlin with Heard's Pond on one side and the river on the other. The old homestead here, built in 1714, now the residence of Edmund H. Sears, has been carefully restored. The doorway is from Oliver Wendell Holmes' birthplace. Before this stands one of the largest elms in Massachusetts. At a distance of five feet from the ground it measures 21 feet in circumference, and its pendant branches touch the ground at a distance of 65 feet from the trunk, thus covering a space 130 feet in diameter. 26.0 WAYLAND. Alt 128 ft. Pop (twp) 2206 (1910), 2033 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1638. Once a rich agricultural town, most of the valuable farms have been taken up in the last decade for the homes of Boston pro- fessional and business men. The Library was the first free public library in Massachu- setts. It was founded in 1848, though a circulating library R. I 5- WORCESTER TO BOSTON 147 association had been formed as early as 1795. One of the founders of the library was President Francis Wayland of Brown University, for whom the town was named in 1835. The Unitarian Church, in the Bulfinch style, built in 1815, has not been modernized, and still retains its old bell cast by Paul Revere, double windows, and huge shoe scrapers on the en- trance porch. Across the street is the little white building formerly the law office of Judge Mellen, the last presiding judge of the Court of Common Pleas. At his death in 1875 his office was sealed and has never been opened since. The Wayland Inn since its establishment in 1771 has con- stantly kept its latch string out. It was patronized by Wash- ington on his way to take command of the Continental Army in 1775. For a time it was called the Pequod House. On Bow Road just outside the village stood the Parmenter Tavern. The farm is still in the family, no deed ever having been passed since 1638 when it was granted to John Parmenter. Here too were located most of the early houses, because the General Court in 1635 ordered that no dwelling be built over half a mile from the meeting house in any new plantation. The old Morse House of 1758 is a splendid example of the square homestead with the huge center chimney. Another notable estate in Wayland is that of Francis Shaw, The Five Paths, on Overthrow Hill, comprising some thousand acres. The house is an exact copy of one of Bulfinch's finest Colonial mansions built by him near Boston. On one of the highest hilltops of Wayland is Perkins Farm, the summer home of the Misses Loring of Boston, covering about five hundred acres, from whose beautiful house half of Massachu- setts is visible. The house has stood for over a hundred years. From Wayland the route follows the red markers through a country of beautifully diversified stretches of meadow with meandering streams alternating with wooded hills and rocky ledges. The road is lined with an ever increasing number of residences of Boston people. Among these is the fine century-old Hayward house, stand- ing back from the road on rising ground surrounded by wide- spreading lawns dotted with noble oaks, which once sheltered the Indians. The winding avenue is shaded by great lindens. Mrs. Hayward, its present mistress, is more widely known as 'Beatrice Herford,' whose monologues have achieved an in- ternational fame. 29.5 WESTON. Alt 161 ft. Pop (twp) 2106 (1910), 2342 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1630. Mfg. organs. This is one of the most attractive of the old towns about the fringe of greater Boston and has become a favorite residential 148 WESTON BOSTON region with numerous beautiful estates upon its outskirts. The stone church in the village square has a bell cast by Paul Revere in 1801. Not far from the square is the Sears place, the Italian gardens of which can be glimpsed from the road. Nearly all the quaint Colonial houses have been remodeled by Boston business and professional men for residences. The most interesting of the ancient buildings in the town is the old Golden Ball Tavern on Central Ave., erected in 1751 by Colonel Elisha Jones. He was an ardent Tory in constant communication with the headquarters of General Gage in Boston, who frequently came here with his staff for convivial suppers. It was here that John Howe, one of Gage's spies, disguised as a Yankee farmer, was discovered by the patriotic townspeople, but with the inn-keeper's aid escaped. On this trip he went as far as Worcester, returning by way of Concord, where he learned of the military stores that had been gath- ered there. He informed General Gage that any attempt to send artillery over the Weston Road would be disastrous. Howe's information was the direct cause of the Lexington and Concord fights. The early settlement at Weston was known as the Farms or the Farm Lands. The site at the junction of Charles River and Stony Brook was originally selected by Winthrop for the capital city of the Bay Colony and a palisaded wall was begun, but fearing attacks from the French the work was stopped and the present site of Boston was selected instead. From Weston the Old Connecticut Path to the Connecticut Valley plunged into the wilderness. The pleasantest and most direct of the various routes into Boston is by way of Commonwealth Ave. From the Vil- lage Square, turn sharp right into Newton St. which runs across a pleasant hill country overlooking the Charles river. The road passes over the western slopes of Doublet Hill (360 ft) on which is an equalizing reservoir of the Metropolitan Water Board. On South Ave. turn left, crossing the Charles river by the old Weston stone bridge which is to be rebuilt in 1916. The Charles river here is a favorite canoeing resort. To the right upstream are the Riverside Recreation Ground and the boathouses of numerous canoe clubs. Half a mile to the left, on the western side of the river, a wood road leads to Norumbega Tower, erected by Eben N. Horsford, professor of chemistry at Harvard, who made a fortune from Acid Phosphate, a simple chemical compound sold as a proprietary article. As the elaborate inscription on the tower indicates, Horsford believed this to be the site of a Norse settlement of about the year 1000, mentioned in the Saga of Eric the Red. Commonwealth Ave., laid out about twenty-five years ago, R. I 5- WORCESTER TO BOSTON 149 runs in graceful sweeping curves from the Weston bridge through the Newtons into the heart of 44.0 BOSTON (R. 20). From Weston the State Highway, with red markers, con- tinues along the course of the Old Post Road to WALTHAM (33.0), on Route 21. Note. The North Shore, avoiding Boston, is reached via Route 21, following Trapelo Road and Pleasant St., through Medford and Middlesex Fells to Stoneham, Saugus, and Lynn, there joining Route 36. From Waltham the Post Road continues on Main St. to 36.0 WATERTOWN. Alt 19 ft. Pop 12,875 (1910), 16,515 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1630. Indian name Pequasset. Mfg. woolen and knit goods, rubber boots, paint, soap, stoves, and machine shop products. The stone bridge over the Charles commemorates the visit of the Norsemen, whose mounds, earthworks, and foundations Professor Horsford believed are found in the town, both above the bridge at Norumbega and below near Mt. Auburn Ceme- tery. The sole relics of the town's early days are the old bury- ing grounds, one on Grove St., first used in 1642, the other at the site of the First Parish Church. Harriet G. Hosmer, the sculptor, was a native of the town. The Government Arsenal is the most notable institution here. One of the oldest towns of the Bay Colony, at first called Salton- stalls Plantation, this was the source of many other settlements, for its discontented inhabitants soon finding themselves crowded estab- lished Wethersfield, Conn., called the mother of towns. Here occurred the first recorded American protest against taxation without representation, in 1632, when the inhabitants objected to paying for the erection of a fort in Cambridge without having had a voice in the matter. The Provincial Congress met in the First Parish Church, April-July, 1775. From the Square in Watertown, various routes lead into Boston, i, via North Beacon St. along the river into Brighton and Allston and Commonwealth Ave.; 2, via Arsenal St. and Central Square, Cambridge, into Cambridge and across Harvard Bridge, Boston; 3, via Mt. Auburn St. and Harvard Square. The second route passes the U.S. Arsenal, occupying about one hundred acres, between Arsenal St. and the river. Car- riages for the largest pieces of artillery are manufactured here. Permission to enter must be obtained at the Commandant's office. Just below is the notable group of Gothic buildings of the Perkins Institution for the Blind. The third route follows Mt. Auburn St., which diverges from Watertown Square to the left of the other two, passing Mt. Auburn Cemetery and Harvard University, reaching Boston by Harvard Bridge (R. 20). R. 2 1. NEW HAVEN to BOSTON. 167.5 m. Via NEW LONDON and PROVIDENCE. STATE ROAD throughout. Of the four chief routes from New York to Boston this Shore Route is perhaps of second importance after the Springfield Route, as it was second in historical development. Following the shore of the Sound and Narragansett Bay, it offers many attractions, and passes a succession of summer resorts of which Watch Hill, Narragansett Pier, and Newport are best known. The road follows the "Pequot Path," an ancient Indian trail along which the Colonists pursued the Indians in the Pequot War in 1637. It was first used by the post riders from Boston to New York because of obstructions on the main post road through Springfield and Hart- ford. In 1693 a weekly post from Boston to New York was established through Saybrook. Through the Revolution this was known as the "Lower Road," or "Old Post Road," to distinguish it from the "Upper Road," followed by Route i, through Hartford and Springfield, and the "Middle Road," Route 3, through Hartford and Pomfret. The "Lower Road" was generally used by travelers, not as a 'through' route, but as the way from New York to Rhode Island. R. 2 1. New Haven to New London. 52.5 m. Via GUILFORD and SAYBROOK. STATE ROAD with red markers. The main road usually runs inland through the larger vil- lages. But frequently by taking a road nearer the shore, which is not likely to be so well surfaced, we get more enticing views of the sea, its coves and headlands. The beautiful south shore holds countless pictures in every mile. Along no similar stretch of road in America are there so many houses of the Colonial period. Branford, Guilford, and Saybrook, settled before 1644, have escaped the influx of manufacturing and consequent foreign population, and preserve much of their ancient character. The Connecticut shore from Branford on is a characteristic stretch of country. It is what geographers call a drowned coast, clearly show- ing evidence of subsidence and of the silting up of valleys along the shore front to form salt marshes. The coast is an ever changing panorama of rocky headlands and islets, protecting smooth sand beaches. Along the route nubbly hillocks of hard granite and gneiss, sometimes with quarries opened in their sides, are often shrouded in a dense growth of oak, cherry, and deciduous trees. Intermittently we cross areas of salt marshes traversed by winding tidal creeks or broad estuaries. The salt marshes afforded the early settlers a ready supply of salt hay, which was valued by them more highly than it is now. Today they afford a brilliant sequence in coloring from the brilliant greens of early Spring to the umbers and browns of late Fall. From the New Haven Green turn east on Chapel St. (i.o), through the least attractive portion of this city, cross the mouth of Mill River, and at Ferry St. with trolley turn sharply to the right, crossing the Quinnipiac by the iron drawbridge, R. 2 i. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 151 and at Forbes Corners, by the brick church, turn left on Main St., following the red markers. The road straight ahead leads to Morris Cove. 4.3 EAST HAVEN. Pop (twp) 1795. New Haven Co. Settled 1638. On the broad village Green shaded with giant buttonwood trees is a venerable stone church. In the early days East Haven was a resort of the Indians for clams and oysters, and as early as 1665 the colonists here established iron works. From East Haven we bear left at the Green, leaving the trolley. To the north is Lake Saltonstall in a quietly attrac- tive country, where the Yale boat races were formerly rowed. To the south, Short Beach with its rocky islands and little bays is a favorite place for shore dinners. This region is noted for its fine shell roads. 7.5 BRANFORD. Pop (twp) 6047, (borough) 2560. New Haven Co. Settled 1644. Indian name Totoket. Mfg. malleable and gal- vanized iron, steel castings, pipe fittings, and drawn wire. Branford is an ancient village whose shores have been trans- formed into a long-drawn-out summer resort, lined with hotels and cottages, including Indian Neck, Double Beach, Crescent Bluff, Short Beach, and Stony Creek. As we enter Branford on the left is the Blackstone Memorial Library, a handsome building of Tennessee marble, in classic Greek style, erected in 1896 by Timothy Blackstone, a native of the town and former president of the Chicago and Alton Railroad. Interesting frescoes by O. D. Grover of Chicago, por- traying the development of book printing, decorate the interior of the dome. The village Green is fringed by huge elms. The site of the Russell Parsonage, where Yale College was founded, is on Montowese St., to the right. Near the shore is the large plant of the Malleable Iron Fittings Company (p 800) . The town was named from Brentford, England. When in 1665 the colonies of Hartford and New Haven were united, the disgusted citizens of Branford, who had bitterly opposed this union, with obstinacy collected their household effects, and, headed by their pastor, moved in a body to Newark, N.J. Between Branford and Guilford the main route runs inland at some distance from the shore. Along the shore between Branford and Guilford are several villages at intervals of a mile or two. Pine Orchard comprises several cottage colonies, some handsome estates, summer hotels, and the eighteen-hole course of the Pine Orchard Golf Club. Horse Pasture Hill, a quarter of a mile back from the shore, affords a fine view. Stony Creek is a little fishing village and summer resort nestling among the inlets of the Sound. The Thimble Islands, reported to number 365, lie off the mouth of the harbor. To 152 BRANFORD MADISON Money Island there clings a legend of a treasure buried by Captain Kidd. Summer residences dot the isles, and a casino here is a center of the social life. Leetes Island, an island only at high tide, has the summer colonies of Harrison Point, Little Harbor, Great Harbor, and others overlooking the Sound. Here the British landed in 1781, burning one house and two barns. There are granite quarries in the vicinity, and hereabout is found the red and yellow ocher from which the Indians made their colors. Just before reaching Guilford we cross the base of the peninsula of Sachem's Head. At the tip of the rocky penin- sula, where there is a splendid little harbor, is a summer colony including a summer hotel, a yacht club house, and a casino. Here are the cottage colonies of Chimney Corner and Vineyard Point with Mulberry Point a mile and a half east- ward. The peninsula's name is accounted for by the legend that during the Pequot War in 1637, when the Pequots were exterminated, the Mohegan Sachem Uncas after the battle of Bloody Cove Beach pursued a Pequot chief who was at- tempting to escape by swimming to a bluff opposite, and shot him, placing the head in the fork of an oak tree, where it re- mained for many years. From Sachem's Head in 1777 Colonel Meigs led an expedition in whaleboats against Sag Harbor, L.I., which burned all the British vessels, bringing about British reprisals at Sachem's Head a month later. 16.0 GUILFORD. Pop (twp) 3001, (borough) 1608. New Haven Co. Settled 1639. Indian name Menuncatuk. Mfg. school furniture, iron castings, wagon wheels, canned goods, ex- tract of birch. Guilford is an ancient town of quaint Colonial houses and quiet elm-shaded streets. Old Guilford claims with ap- parent justice more than a hundred pre-Revolutionary houses. Entering the village, the route bears left round the pretty, tree-studded Green. On the site of the old Fitz-Greene Halleck House, opposite the Green, stands the present Hotel Halleck with stores below. Fitz-Greene Halleck, one of the first American poets, was a native of this town and served as a clerk in the village store until called to the counting room of the Astors, and after almost half a century as a social lion in New York returned here to spend his last days under his native elms. In the Alderbrook Cemetery on the Madison Road, a mile from the Green, his granite monument bears the simple inscription, "Fitz-Greene Halleck, 1790-1867," with a couplet from his "Marco Bozzaris": "One of the few, the immortal names That are not born to die." R. 2 I. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 153 The Old Stone House on Whitfield St., a quarter mile south of the Green, built in 1639 by the Rev. Henry Whitfield, is said to be the oldest stone house in the United States outside St. Augustine, Fla. It is preserved by the State as a historical museum, and is well worth seeing (adm. free). It contains a twelve-foot fireplace, fine old furniture, and historical relics. Notable among other ancient houses of the town is the Grace Starr house, the second oldest, built before 1668, on Crooked Lane, otherwise State St., and the Acadian House on Union St., which connects Crooked Lane and Boston St. Here the town sheltered destitute Acadian peasants set ashore in Guilford from a British ship in the autumn of 1755 after the destruc- tion of Grand Pre, N.S. One may still see the cellar where Goffe and Whalley were con- cealed in June, 1661, beneath Governor Leete's storehouse, while the King's officers were searching for them in New Haven. Near the northern corner of the Guilford Green was the homestead of Eli Foote, who married Roxana, daughter of General Andrew Ward of Nutplains, whom Washington left to keep the campfires burning at Trenton while he withdrew his forces. General Ward was a son of Colonel Andrew Ward, a long- THE OLD STONE HOUSE lived, thrifty soul who when he served in the French War took his grog rations in silver and brought home six tablespoons engraved " Louisbourg." The second of General Andrew Ward's ten grandchildren, named for her mother, Roxana, married the famous Lyman Beecher of Litchfield, and became the mother of Harriet Beecher Stowe and Henry Ward Beecher. Nutplains so called because of the abundance of hickory and walnut trees is a serenely beautiful hamlet a mile and a half northeast of Guilford in the valley of Kuttawoo Brook, or East River. Leaving Guilford, just west of the Alderbrook Cemetery on the right is the famous 'Black House.' Its Huguenot owner painted it black when he learned the news of the execution of Louis XVI, and it was never repainted until a few years ago. The East river separates the townships of Guilford and Madison and gives its name to the village of East River (19.0). 21.0 MADISON. Pop (twp) 1534. New Haven Co. Settled 1639. Mfg. school apparatus. Madison is a quiet old village, the center of a number of beach resorts. The main street is lined by a quadruple row of huge elms and bordered by fine old houses, many of which date from Colonial times. The town buildings are grouped about the village Green. 154 MADISON WESTBROOK Boston Street is a broad, shady thoroughfare lined with old houses. The oldest still standing are the James Meigs-Bishop house (1690), Noah Bradley homestead (1680), Deacon John Grave house (1680), now the residence of Miss Mary E. Red- field, Captain Grifnn-Scranton house (1759), and the Deacon John French-Captain Meigs house (1675). When the first meeting house was erected here in 1705, "between John Grave's house and Jonathan Hoit's," John Grave was chosen to beat the drum "for twenty shillings a year." After the Deerfield Massacre some of the Colonists moved from that dangerous region to Madison, then East Guilford, among them Ebenezer Field, whose family had suffered se- verely, many having been "captivated" and taken to Canada. David Dudley Field, one of the four famous brothers of this family, was born at Madison. A century ago the village was the center of a thriving coasting trade and shipped cargoes to Nantucket, New York, and the South. From East River Beach extend Crescent, Middle, Hammon- asset, and Sea Farm Beach colonies, more than five miles of splendid shore line. Tuxis Island lies off the shore directly opposite Madison and between Hogshead and Webster Points. From Webster Point the mile-long stretch of Hammonasset Beach runs out to the point of that name. Three miles beyond Madison is the Hammonasset river, the boundary between New Haven and Middlesex counties, on which is a fishing preserve. 25.0 CLINTON. Pop (twp) 1274. Middlesex Co. Settled 1667. Indian name Hammonasset. Clinton, with three miles of shore front and a back country of forest-covered hills, is the center of a thriving summer colony largely from New York, Hartford, and Springfield. It is the home of "Pond's Extract " distilled from the witch-hazel, a shrub which abounds in the region round about. To the Indians known as Hammonasset, it was named from Kenil- worth, England, corrupted to Killingworth, a form which sur- vives in the town to the north, from which Clinton was set apart in 1838. One of Longfellow's "Tales of a Wayside Inn," "The Birds of Killingworth," is reminiscent of this. On the Green there is a column surmounted by a pile of books, marking the site where the earliest classes of Yale Col- lege were instructed by the first President, Rev. Abraham Pierson, who was pastor of Killingworth. Though the College was officially at Saybrook (pp 103, 1 58), he required his students to come to him here. Beyond the Green on the left is a large Colonial house with the John Stanton Collection of Connecticut Antiquities. Before the Morgan School, also on the left, are R. 2 I. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON '155 statues of Charles Morgan, founder of the School, and Abraham Pierson, Yale's first President. The old Redfield house was built in 1706 and is now occu- pied by the seventh generation, direct descendants of John and Priscilla Alden, celebrated by Longfellow. It has subcellars where valuables were hidden during the British raids. The Jared Eliot homestead stands on the site of the original house, built by the son of the Indian apostle (Natick, R. 24) . The Rev. Jared Eliot was an unusual man for his time, whose first essay attracted Benjamin Franklin's attention so that he purchased fifty copies. He taught the people how to drain swamps and introduced mulberry trees and silk culture. His most dis- tinguished pupil was the Rev. Samuel Johnson, Jr., nephew of the great Dr. Johnson, whom Bishop Berkeley considered "one of the finest wits in America." Johnson afterward became the first President of King's College, later Columbia, and he did much to introduce the Church of England service in Connecticut. His favorite pupil was Fitz-Greene Halleck. Grove Beach, two miles beyond Clinton, is a summer colony. The bluff, one of the highest on this shore, gives a splendid view. Duck Island breakwater here is the largest on the Con- necticut coast. Beyond Grove Beach the route crosses the Menunketesuck and the Patchogue rivers. 29.5 WESTBROOK. Pop (twp) 951. Middlesex Co. Settled 1644. Indian name Menunketeset. The village is half a mile from the Sound, but there are several summer colonies along its shore line, Menunketesuck Point, Quotonsett Beach with the Quotonsett Golf Club, Stannard Beach, Money Point, and Kelsey Point. Money Point is another of the numerous places where Captain Kidd's treasure is searched for, with no known profit. This was the site of a permanent Indian village of the Nehantic tribe, as is indicated by the large number of arrow heads yet found. The first settlers, the three Chalker brothers, built their houses on the little hill at the foot of which flows a brook, the dividing line between Saybrook and Westbrook since 1840, that crosses the Post Road. The oldest house is on the south side of the road, so modernized as to have lost any appearance of age. Before 1700 there was an iron- works at Pond Meadow where ore obtained in Mine Swamp was smelted and made into anchors and nails. The inventor of the submarine, David Bushnell, a native of West- brook, was born in 1742. At the age of twenty-seven he entered Yale at a time when most students were entering at the age of fourteen and fifteen, and graduated in 1775, on the eve of the Revolution. He conceived the possibility of destroying Britain's fleets by an invention of his which he called the "American Turtle." In 1777 he informed the Connecticut Governor, Trumbull, Washington's 'Brother Jona- than,' and the original of 'Uncle Sam' as he is depicted, that he was prepared to build an "American Turtle" that would blow up the Brit- 156 WESTBROOK OLD SAYBROOK ish Navy. First he had to convince the doubters that it would be possible to explode gunpowder under water. Its construction was carried out at Saybropk Ferry. The Turtle was made of oak, just large enough to hold within a man to operate the paddle wheels. The magazine which carried 150 pounds of powder was detachable, to be screwed' against" the bottom of the vessel before exploding. The Turtle was completed and actually sank a vessel in New London harbor, and so terrorized the British that they offered a reward for Bushnell, dead or alive. As a matter of fact Bushnell was taken prisoner, but the captors did not know his identity, and he, feigning to be of weak mind, easily outwitted them and escaped. Why the Turtle was not made more use of remains a mystery. Its remains were long treasured on the Bushnell Farm in Westbrook. Robert Fulton later invented a submarine as he did a steamboat, on ideas derived from others. 33.0 OLD SAYBROOK. Pop (twp) 1516. Middlesex Co. Settled 1635. Old Saybrook today is a quiet, elm-shaded village with an air of conservative oldtime wealth. The streets of the town wear an old-world look, with their many interesting old houses and historic landmarks. But in early Colonial history it played a leading role, and had the Puritan Revolution in England re- sulted otherwise it might today be the leading city of the State with Oliver Cromwell the great man of its past. Through Colonial days, when the river navigation was important, Say- brook occupied a strategic position, at the mouth of the Con- necticut river, and later was prominent in the East India trade. Its importance was early increased by becoming the 'half-way stop' for the Boston Post. Near the Inn is an ancient, red sandstone milestone, recording the distance to Hartford as forty-one miles. The white, square-towered old church bears on its front a bronze plate in- forming the reader that it was organized in "The Great Hall of the Fort" in the summer of 1646. The Hart Mansion was built in 1783 by Captain Elisha Hart, whose seven daughters here entertained Washington Irving, Fitz-Greene Halleck, and other notables. Famous beauties of their time, two of them married Commodores Isaac and Joseph Hull of War of 1812 renown. A third, Jeannette, fell in love with the South American patriot Bolivar when he was entertained here, till her father put a stop to the romance. The Whittlesley house was defended by William Tully against eight Tories at the time of the Revolution. "Ye Old Saybrooke Inn" was the home of Captain Morgan, a mariner of "genial earnestness," whose portrait Dickens has preserved, with name slightly disguised, as his hero Captain Jorgan in "A Message from the Sea." Old Saybrook is the center of many summer colonies. Say- brook Manor lies back from the Sound on high land, a region of residential parks. Saybrook Park, on the Connecticut, is a R. 2 i. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 157 center of motor boating. Saybrook Heights overlooks the Cove, famous as a fishing ground. The Connecticut river shad industry furnishes a livelihood for many here. The fish are taken as far up the river as Middletown and shipped to all parts of the country. It is worth while to make a circuit by excellent roads to Say- brook Point around South Cove back to Old Saybrook. Be- side the road leading to the Point, on the site of the first wind- mill which ground grist, lies the original millstone, said to have been brought over from Holland. Saybrook Point, facing the harbor at the mouth of the river, was in days of the West India trade a place of swarm- ing wharves. Here is the picturesque Black Horse Tavern in spite of its 200 years, stanch in hand-hewn beams, burnt oystershell plaster, and chimney of English bricks. A granite boulder marks the site of the Saybrook parsonage where the assembled ministers of the region met in 1701 and founded the college since known as Yale. Here the first solemn Commencements were held with simple theological ceremony. From the Point the State Road crosses the mouth of South Cove on a half-mile long spile bridge. Lynde's Point, at the river's mouth, has a number of attractive summer cottages. Timothy D wight more than a century ago found "Lynde's Point an estate of great value, belonging to a gentleman of that name. The surface is beautiful, and the soil rich. It is also nearly surrounded by water, and therefore freed from the expense of an artificial enclosure. . . . Very few landed estates in this country are equally productive, or equally pleasing to the eye." At the extreme point of land is the tall, hexagonal white lighthouse, and, beyond, the government jetties keep the channel open. Just to the east lies Fenwick with many charm- ing summer residences and shaded streets. At Cornfield Point is a magnificent estate which has several times been considered for the summer 'White House.' Off shore is the Cornfield Point lightship. From here we make a circuit due north two miles to Saybrook. Saybrook derived its name from Lord Saye and Sele and Lord Brooke, leading stockholders of the company which also included Hampden and Pym. The King's grant to the Earl of Warwick was purchased to found a Puritan Colony and refuge in America. The generous terms of His Majesty's charter gave them the territory "Lying west from Narragansett River, a hundred and twenty miles on the seacoast, and from hence in latitude and breadth aforesaid to the South Sea." In 1635 John Winthrop, son of Massachusetts' famous Governor, was deputed to build a fort at Saybrook Point. Lieutenant Lion Gardner, a skilled English engineer, was sent over by the titled pro- prietors to take charge of the laying out of the town and the building 158 OLD SAYBROOK OLD LYME of the fort, the site of which can still be distinguished on a little emi- nence commanding the mouth of the river. The palisade was built across the neck of land, and between it and the fort, house lots were assigned to those "gentlemen of distinction and figure" who were ex- pected to come out. Macaulay gives this account of how Cromwell and Hampden actually embarked but were prevented from sailing: "Hampden determined to leave England. Beyond the Atlantic Ocean a few of the persecuted Puritans had formed in the wilderness of the Connecticut a settlement. . . . Lord Saye and Lord Brooke were the original projectors of this scheme of emigration. Hampden had been early consulted respecting it. ... He was accompanied by his kinsman, Oliver Cromwell, over whom he possessed great influence. . . . The cousins took their passage on a vessel which lay in the Thames, and which was bound for North America. They were actually on board when an order of council appeared, by which the ship was pro- hibited from sailing. . . . Hampden and Cromwell remained; and with them remained the Evil Genius of the house of Stuart." In 1639 Gardner, discouraged with conditions, moved to the island east of Long Island which has since borne his name. The same year Colonel Fenwick, accompanied by his wife, Lady Fenwick, was sent out from England as governor of the Plantation. Lady Fenwick died here five years after and was buried a few yards southwest of the fort on an eminence still known as Tomb Hill. Her tombstone, since removed, is still to be seen in the Point Cemetery. When the planta- tion was sold to the Colony of Connecticut, Fenwick returned to England and later figured in history as one of the judges of Charles I. The fort long stood guard at the river's mouth. It successfully re- sisted attacks of the Dutch, and round it the waves of Pequot and Narragansett warfare surged through half a century. Moving tales of siege, ambush, captivity, and torture are told of events about it. Through Colonial times the fort continued to command the important river navigation. It closed the river to the Dutch in 1675 and pre- vented the fleet of Sir Edmund Andros from entering. A toll was levied on all vessels entering the river, which Springfield vessels re- fused to pay. The Bay Colony retaliated by levying a heavy toll on all Connecticut vessels entering Boston Harbor until this brought about reciprocity. The collegiate school of Connecticut which fifteen years after its organization received the name of Yale College continued here more or less intermittently until 1716. Up to this time most of the Com- mencements were here, though until 1708 the teaching was largely at Killingworth. The home of the , future Yale College during this period was a long, low, one-story structure between the fort and the palisade. The removal of the College was indignantly resisted by the people of Saybrook, who continued to hold the library. After the first Commencement at New Haven the aid of the Governor was in- voked and the sheriff sent with a warrant to seize the books. Not only did he find the house where the books were kept barred, and meet with resistance, but when they had been loaded in carts the bridges were broken down and other obstacles raised, so that when the remnant of the library reached New Haven 250 of the books were missing. Something of the conditions of the roads and travel at this time are re- flected by Madame Knight's account of her horseback journey from Boston to New York in 1704. She writes: "Wee advanced on the town of Seabrook. The Rodes all along this way are very bad. Incumbered with Rocks and mountainos passages, which were very disagreeable to my tired carcass. In going over a Bridge, Under which the River Run very swift, my hors stumbled, and very narrowly 'scaped falling over into the water; which extremely R. 2 i. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 159 frightened me. But through God's goodness I met with no harm, and mounting agen, in about half a miles Rideing came to an ordinary, was well entertained by a woman of about seventy and advantage, but of as sound Intellectuals as one of seventeen." Up to 1707 there were none but Congregational churches, which all taxpayers supported. Later, as other churches were established, it became possible to 'sign off' with the consent of the town govern- ment if one belonged to another approved church. Presbyterians, however, were not permitted this freedom. They must support the Congregational church as well as their own. On one occasion when the town clerk refused to draw up such a paper for a citizen whose taxable value was considerable, the citizen drew the document him- self, which read with a touch of sarcasm: "I hereby renounce the Christian religion that I may join the Episcopal Church." From the center of Old Saybrook the State Road turns left at the fountain, continues on the main street, and half a mile beyond turns right at the fork. We cross the broad mouth of the Connecticut by a steel toll bridge (35-50 cts.), 1800 ft long, built by the State. The extended view includes Calves Island, Saybrook Light, Tautummahead, a summer colony of New Yorkers on the east bank, and Saybrook Park on the west. To the right of the State Road and its red markers is the greater part of the beautiful village of 34.5 OLDLYME. Pop (twp) 1181. New London Co. Settled 1645. Old Lyme is an ancient and prosperous village, beautifully situated opposite the old town of Saybrook on higher land, whence came the first settlers. It has always remained a resi- dential town of wealth and refinement, and perhaps no town in the State has retained more of its oldtime character. Some one has indicted this region in the following terms: "Charm- ing old Lyme, mother of lawyers, judges, statesmen, diplomats, and multi-millionaire financiers." The varied attractions of seaside and inland scenery, the Connecticut river, a good bathing beach on the Sound, charming lakes, wooded drives, and walks have made it the delight of artists, so that it is the home of an artist colony and the Lyme Art School, which has its headquarters in the Boxwood Manor School. Henry W. Ranger was the pioneer of the artist colony (1899); later came Louis Paul Dessar, Frank Du Mond, Childe Hassam, and others. The September art exhibitions in the Memorial Library are notable. Before he came to the White House, President Wilson spent three summers in Lyme. From the Connecticut bridge, following the red markers, we reach the beautiful meeting house, a replica completed in 1910 of the old church built in 1817 in the style of Sir Christo- pher Wren on the site of the original meeting house of 1668. The main route forks left with red markers (p 162). l6o OLD LYME Detour by the Shore Route through Niantic to New London. From Old Lyme Church the road runs to the right, following the windings of the marshy shore to Black Hall (3.0), for six generations the seat of the famous Griswold family, and one of the best examples in the country of a family estate kept up in the fashion of an old English manor. Matthew Griswold received a grant here from George Fenwick in 1645, and was the first settler in what was then East Saybropk in 1667. He himself became Governor of the State as did many of his descend- ants. Some interesting stories of his courtship survive. He courted a young woman in Durham who had another string to her bow, the town physician, whom she rather preferred, but was unwilling to loose the first string until she was sure of the other. One day Matthew brought matters to a head by demanding an immediate reply to his oft repeated proposal. Again he got the answer that she would like a little more time, to which he replied, "Madame, I will give you a life- time." It is said she died a spinster. His experience with his cousin, Ursula Wolcott, a guest at Black Hall, with whom he became smitten, was quite different. She loved Matthew and suspected that he loved her. One day, meeting on the stairs, she asked, "What did you say, Cousin Matthew?" "I did not say anything," he replied. Several times the question and reply were repeated, until one day to his customary reply Ursula added tartly, "It is time you did." So she became Mrs. Griswold and dis- pensed hospitality at Black Hall. Her eight spirited daughters, known as the 'Black Hall Boys,' achieved some notoriety in that con- servative age, for they seem to have been the prototypes of the modern athletic girl. The shore from Black Hall is a succession of summer re- sorts, Howard Beach, Brighton-by-the-Sea, Hawkes Nest, Sound View, Hatchetts Point, and Giants Neck, the latter the seat of the younger or New York branch of the Griswolds. Just before crossing Four-Mile River Bridge is the birth- place of Chief Justice Morrison Waite, and at Maple Wait a famous well located by Benjamin Franklin. From the sharp rise of Dorr Hill the road descends into Bride Brook valley, an early boundary between Lyme and New London. The marsh lands were valued for their hay crop, and there was a valuable strip of them in dispute as to which town they belonged. Not worthy of a law suit, it was decided to "leave it to the Lord," and the method whereby the Lord was to announce his decision was in giving the victory to the two champions that fought for each town. The champions of Lyme were William Ely and Matthew Griswold, not " What-did-you-say-Cousin-Matthew," but another. The Lord decided it in favor of Lyme, and the boundary has ever since been at the Niantic river. The name of Bride Brook is accounted for by a romantic story. Two lovers would wed, but no minister was available. It was not lawful for them to go to New London nor for the New London magis- trate, John Winthrop, to marry them in Lyme, so the lovers stood on one side of the stream, the Governor on the other, and the matrimonial knot was tied across the running water. The Thomas Lee House beyond the brook was built in 1680 R. 2 I. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 161 and recently purchased by the local historical society for preser- vation. The resident hostess, at the Andrew Griswold place nearly opposite, opens the house to visitors and serves tea if desired. With its heavy timbers, ancient paneling, and period furniture it is a rare picture of the earliest Colonial days. Among the many romances clustering about this venerable house is that of the wooing of Betty Lee by Captain Reynold Marvin. Betty's father was opposed to the match, but one day when Betty was en- gaged as was Nausicaa on the appearance of Ulysses the eccentric militia captain rode up, reigned in his horse, and without preface an- nounced, "Betty, the Lord has commanded me to marry you." Whereupon Betty looked modestly down and said, "The Lord's will be done." Marvin published the banns by posting on the church door the following verse: "Reynold Marvin and Betty Lee Do intend to marry, And though her dad op-pos-ed be, They can no longer tarry." They were married, lived happily, and brought up a large family. This same Marvin continued to write verse, as witness this epitaph which he wrote for his father's tombstone: "This Deacon, aged sixty-eight, Is freed on earth from sarvin. May for a crown no longer wait Lyme's Captain Reynold Marvin." Just beyond the Lee house is the Little Boston School, famous of yore as a seat of learning. Here came young men who had made deep sea voyages as mates of vessels to spend the winter term studying navigation and surveying and the higher mathematics under a famous old master, Samuel Corn- stock, whose son, Dr. John Comstock, wrote the first text- book on physics in this country. At the small Pataguanset river a road runs south to Black Point, now the seat of three large summer colonies, once the reservation of the Niantic Indians, who originally owned all the territory from the Connecticut river to the Thames. Be- tween Black Point and Millstone Point lies Niantic Bay. In the angle formed by the river and bay lies Niantic Plain, once known as the Soldier's Bounty, because it was bestowed on one of Captain Mason's men for his services in the Pequot War. The upper part of this plain, owned by the State as a camp ground for its militia, is considered one of the best mili- tary fields in the country. At the mouth of the Niantic river is the village of Niantic (10.0). Across the Niantic river the road runs over a sandy bar and a bridge, still called the Rope Ferry from the ancient manner of crossing, into the town of Waterford (13.0), on Jordan Creek. Goshen Point to the south was formerly the seat of the Rogerene Quakers. By way of Bank St. it enters the center of NEW LONDON (17.0). 162 OLD LYME NEW LONDON From Old Lyme the shorter Trunk Line State Road, with the red markers, follows the trolley north through historic Lyme Street. It runs inland via Laysville and East Lyme along the course of the Old Post Road, which still has some of the old milestones set when Benjamin Franklin, as Postmaster- general of the Colonies, so much improved the post roads. The Street, or Olde Lyme Street, as the main street of the vil- lage is called, with its fine old historical houses under cathedral arches of ancient elms, is one of the most beautiful rural streets in New England or elsewhere. Just beyond the church is the Ludington place, once the home of Samuel Parsons Holden. Nearby is the McCurdy mansion, built in 1730, where both Washington and Lafayette have been entertained. A mile beyond the church, where the elms give place to maples, is the William Noyes House (1818), with a fine portico, the residence of Miss Florence Griswold, literally a museum of visiting artists who have decorated its interior even to the door panels. In the vicinity are the homes of many artists of the Lyme colony. A little beyond is the residence of Judge Walter Chadwick Noyes, once the home of Rev. Moses Noyes, the first minister in Lyme. Will Howe Foote has a white house nearby with grounds sloping down to the Lieutenant river. Harry Hoffman has an attractive hilltop house. Beyond Laysville (37.7) is Rogers Lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by wooded hills. On the high ground over- looking the lake are many estates and summer residences. For several miles the road runs through a wooded, uninhabited country, where Yale University has a large tract used as a school of surveying. The Morton F. Plant State Game Pre- serve (40.0) lies on both sides of the road, which then skirts the lower end of Pataguanset Lake. A side road and branch trolley turns south to Niantic. 4S.S FLANDERS VILLAGE (East Lyme twp). This was probably so called because it was an early cloth- weaving center. Here are several eighteenth century houses, one of them being the Caulkins Tavern, where Washington and Lafayette both have stopped for refreshments. Eastward from this point the road crosses the Niantic river, a tidal estu- ary whose shores are thickly set with summer colonies. At the head of the river is Golden Spur Park, a summer colony with a casino, boating, and fishing attractions. The Silver Buckle is an ancient tavern here. The Oswegatchie House at Sandy Point farther down the river is a great social center. From the Niantic river the road runs over Fog Plain to New London, entering on Bank St. R. 2 I. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 163 52.5 NEW LONDON. Pop 19,659. One of the County -seats of New London County, the other being Norwich. Settled 1646. Indian name Nameaug. Port of Entry. Mfg. silks, machinery, machine tools, cotton gins, printing presses, bed comfortables, brass and copper tubing; shipbuilding. Value of Product (1909), $4,483,000. Steamboats to Nor- wich, New York, Sag Harbor, and Greenport daily; Block Island, Fisher's Island, Watch Hill, and shore resorts in summer. Southern terminus of Grand Trunk R.R. New London, three miles above the mouth of the Thames, has a wonderful situation on hills rising from the harbor. The Thames river, really an estuary and a beautiful example of a drowned river valley, is tidal and navigable to Norwich, four- teen miles above. The harbor is one of the best sheltered on the coast, with water for vessels of twenty-five foot draft. Contemplated improvements will enable vessels of thirty-five foot draft to be accommodated. The Connecticut Legislature has appropriated a million dollars for a State-owned pier, rapidly approaching completion. On account of its strategic situation, New London is the headquarters of the U.S. Artillery District embracing the forts which command the eastern en- trance of Long Island Sound. Two miles above the bridge is a U.S. Naval Station occupying about eighty acres, now used as a base for submarines. The Harvard-Yale boat race the last of June attracts thousands of visitors. The course extends four miles upstream above the railroad bridge. The adjoining shore resorts make it a vacation center and in summer the beautiful harbor is filled with yachts. Frequent ferry service connects Fisher's Island, a summer suburb and site of Fort Wright. On Bank St. to the left entering the town is the old Colonial Shaw mansion, built in 1756 by the labor of Acadian peasant exiles. In the -burning of the town by the British this house was saved by tapping a pipe of vinegar in the garret. "In the stress of wartimes, Mistress Lucretia Shaw filled her home with cots for our soldiers." In 1907 it was purchased by the New London County Historical Society for its permanent home. Within there is an exhibition of historical relics (25 cts; free Wed. aft.). The White Room contains the mahogany four- poster in which Washington slept. The center of civic life is the Parade at the foot of State St., with a parklet and a Soldiers and Sailors' Monument. On Main St., about a mile from the Parade, by the side of a rocky glen at the head of Winthrop Cove where Briggs Brook comes tumbling down, is the Old Town Mill, with its great over- shot wheel still in use; one of the most picturesque antiquities in Connecticut. The original was built in 1650 by John Winthrop the younger, founder of the town, who held the ex- 1 64 NEW LONDON elusive privilege of grinding corn for the colony. Necessary repairs from time to time have not changed its appearance. On Meeting House Hill in the northwest part of the city is "Ye Ancientiest Buring Ground," laid out as early as 1645 and restored in 1855. An old fractured slab of red sandstone bears this inscription: "An epitaph on Captaine Richard Lord, deceased May 17, 1662, Aetatis svae 51. "... Bright starre of ovr chivallrie lies here To the state a covnsellorr fvll deare And to ye trvth a friend of sweete content To Hartford towne a silver ornament Who can deny to poore he was reliefe And in composing paroxyies he was chiefe To Marchantes as a patterne he might stand Adventring dangers new by sea and land." A stone marks the grave of Miss Sarah Knight who in later life kept an inn near Norwich. Many inscriptions record pathetic memories of the old whaling days and those lost at sea. In a corner of the burying ground, where it was moved in 1901, there now stands the little old red school house where Nathan Hale taught before he served his country as a spy. It is used as a museum for Revolutionary relics, open to the public two afternoons a week during the summer months. In the chancel of St. James' Episcopal Church at the corner of Federal St. are "the ashes of Samuel Seabury, the first Anglican bishop in the United States." At the outbreak of the Revolution he remained loyal to the crown, and protesting his "abhorrence of all unlawful congresses and committees," was promptly jailed. At the head of State St. stands the old Court House, a wooden building of pleasing architecture bearing upon its pediment the date 1784. Opposite is the Public Library, built in 1890 of Milford granite and brown- stone, from the design of H. H. Richardson. On Jay St. is the old Huguenot house, covered with Virginia creeper, with a quaint old gambrel roof. Near it on Hempstead St. is the venerable Hempstead home. Built in 1678, it was fortified to resist Indian attacks. The Connecticut College for Women, chartered in 1911 and opened in 1915, occupies an elevated tract of 340 acres on the northern limits of the town bordering the Thames and overlooking the Sound. The townspeople raised by sub- scription $135,000. Morton F. Plant of Groton has given a million dollars for endowment, and additional funds for Plant House and Blackstone House, dormitories in the Tudor style. The obsolete Fort Trumbull, of massive masonry, is now the U.S. Revenue-Cutter Service School of Instruction. Just below is Pequot Point with a casino and the attractions of good fishing and bathing. Many of the residents of the Pequot R. 2 i. NEW HAVEN TO NEW LONDON 165 Colony spend the whole year there and even the summer visitors stay until late in the fall. At the mouth of the harbor, on the extremity of Fisher's Island, is the Race Rock lighthouse, built by the late F. Hop- kinson Smith. The lighthouse and the region round about form the principal scene for his novel "Caleb West." The original of Captain Joe in this story was Thomas A. Scott, who died in 1907. He attained fame and wealth through the successful handling of his wrecking apparatus, which is always ready to succor ships aground and in distress. At the present time the T. A. Scott Company has a fleet of about fifty tug boats and lighters, and has in its employ several hundred men. It takes large contracts for bridge and construction work all along the Atlantic coast. It is the contractor for $250,000 of work on the State pier now building. The Thames Tow Boat Company, the first to tow a barge east of Cape Cod, has been in business here since 1865. It has one of the largest ship railways in New England. New London has had many vicissitudes in her history. After a long period of sleepiness the town has in recent years had an industrial awakening. Among the older manu- facturers are the Brainerd & Armstrong Company, established in 1867, and still under the original management. Their three large plants employ a thousand operatives and produce wash silks, embroidery silks, and satin linings. Palmer Brothers ship bed comfortables all over the world. The Brown Cotton Gin Company builds cotton machinery and Babcock Printing Presses come from here. On State St., the Mohican Hotel was built by Frank Munsey for his publishing business, but he has since transformed it into an up-to-date hotel. New London, including Groton, was settled in 1645 by John Win- throp the younger, son of Governor Winthrop of Massachusetts, under the Indian name of Nameaug, or Pequot Harbor. In 1658 the Con- necticut Assembly resolved: "Whereas this court considering . . . that they might thereby leave to posterity the memory of that renowned city of London, from whence we had our transportation, have thought fit, in honor of that famous city, to call the said Plantation, New London." The Mohegan river was at the same time renamed the Thames. New Londoners were mariners from the first, not mere fishermen, and shipbuilding was carried on here from the middle of the seven- teenth century. In the palmy days of the West India trade, from 1720 till the Revolution, New London was a bustling seaport, export- ing the local products of the country round about, corn, hams, pork, butter, and cheese, and importing the sugar, molasses, and rum of the West Indies. With the closing of the Colonial Era the West India traffic passed. In the Revolution this was the chief port of the Connecticut navy of twenty-six vessels and many privateers, and New London ware- houses were packed with spoils from British prizes. The American 1 66 NEW LONDON GROTON fleet which raided the Bahamas was outfitted here, and here were brought their prisoners and plunder. In retaliation, on Sept. 5, 1781, the British fleet appeared off the town with a large force of troops in command of the renegade, Benedict Arnold. On the rock where the British landed now stands the "stone castle," the residence of former Governor Thomas M. Waller. Forts Trumbull and Griswold had been hastily prepared under the command of Colonel William Led- yard. Fort Trumbull was taken with a rush, and Ledyard gathered his men at Fort Griswold across the river. Arnold's part in this was especially atrocious, as he was born only thirteen miles from here in Norwich. He had won distinction at Quebec, Plattsburg, and Sara- toga, and the eulogy of Washington. From the heights of Meeting House Hill he watched the destruction of the houses of his boyhood acquaintance and the attack on Fort Griswold on the Groton Heights. A contemporary native, one Zab. Rogers, writing a friend the day after the sack, says: "I have the Unhappiness to acquaint you, Genl. Arnold with about 1500 or 2000 Men Landed Here Yesterday Morn- ing & have Burnt this Town from the Court House to Nathl. Shaw House which was Sav'd & from Giles Mumfords House to Capt. Richards store. . . . They have Burnt Your House & All Your Stores at Groton & Most of the Houses on the Bank." The trade of the port was almost destroyed by the Revolution and an epidemic of yellow fever in 1798 further reduced the population. The whaling days brought a revival, and again the harbor and the wharves swarmed with vessels unloading or outloading. In the early forties of the nineteenth century, when the industry was at its prime, 150 whalers hailed from New London, and an annual revenue of $2,000,- ooo poured into the coffers of the town. Seventy-one ships and barks, one brig, and six schooners were owned here at that time, and 3000 men were employed. New London whalers gathered their harvests among the islands of the Pacific, in the Arctic, and south of Good Hope. R. 2 2. New London to Providence. 70.0 m. (ALTERNATE ROUTES via NORWICH, NOOSENECK HILL, WATCH HILL, and NARRAGANSETT PIER.) Via STONINGTON, WESTERLY, and WICKFORD. From New London to Providence and Boston there are several alternatives to the Shore Road, all over modern State Highways. (See Conn, and R.I. maps.) Note. Route 12, with blue markers, leads north, up the valley of the Thames to Norwich (13.0), thence up the valley of the Quinebaug to Central Village. Here leaving R. 12, a State Road, marked by red bands to the Rhode Island line, leads eastward, via Wauregan, Coventry, and Washington. From Washington a State Road leads southward to Westerly. The group of mill villages making up the Rhode Island townships of Coventry and West Warwick are known as the 'Valley Villages' and contain a combined population of about 22,000, with a sparsely settled region to the north and south. From Washington the route runs through the busy but un- attractive villages of Pawtuxet valley, over Sockanosset Hill, R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 167 past the Rhode Island "State Institution" whence the view is worthy of appreciation, and by way of Reservoir Ave. enters Providence, 66.4 m. from New London. The State Road, marked in red as far as Westerly, takes us along the shores of a broken, hilly country indented by estu- aries, and dotted with ponds and swamps, the scene of the early Indian wars. Today many prosperous industrial towns and some of the most populous and popular of the summer shore resorts are along this coast. The guide boards from New London eastward are frequently mis- leading as to distances, the mileages as stated, especially on the older ones, apparently having reference to the route via Narragansett Pier, which for a number of years was the only continuously built State Road. It is puzzling to the tourist who is proceeding correctly on his way to be confronted by a board that assures him he is from five to ten miles farther from his destination than he was at the previous stopping place. Leaving New London by the Groton Ferry at the foot of State St., upstream is the railroad bridge, 1423 ft long, from Winthrop Neck to Groton shore. It has the longest double track draw (503 ft) in the world, it is claimed. The present bridge will be utilized for highway purposes when the new R.R. bridge is completed. "Ye ferry over Great River, . . . being a scow with both sails and oars, was leased to Gary Latham," the first settler on "Groton Bank." In 1705 the rents of the ferry were assigned to the support of the grammar school to pay part of the master's "Yearly sallery, provided nevertheless, that the inhabitants of the town on Lords days, Thanks- giving days, and days of humiliation, shall be ferriage free." 0.5 GROTON. Pop (twp) 6495, (borough) 1895. Inc. 1704. Base for U.S. submarine fleet. Mfg. marine engines; shipbuilding. This historic town after a long period of peaceful rest has of recent years shared in the industrial revival of New London, which her frontage on a wonderful harbor justifies. On Groton Heights rises the Monument (134 ft), a granite shaft built in part with the proceeds of a lottery. A marble tablet placed above its entrance is inscribed: "In Memory of the Brave Patriots/ who fell in the massacre of Fort Griswold, near this spot,/ on the 6th of September, A.D. i78i,/ when the British, under the command of the Traitor,/ BENEDICT ARNOLD,/ burnt the towns of New London and Groton, and spread/ desolation and woe throughout this region." The battle ground south of the monument has been pre- sented by the Federal Government to the State. Here was the scene of the fiercest fighting in Connecticut during the Revolution. The defenders gathered from the country round about, and when at night the firing ceased only one male member of the old church was left alive. The house at the 1 68 GROTON MYSTIC foot of the hill is marked as the one to which the wounded were carried. From the top of the monument there is a splendid view over "breezy ridges and sunny valleys." New London and the Navy Yard are to the west and north, the hills of Groton and Fort Hill to the north and east, and to the south the mouth of the Thames with its forts, lighthouses, hotels, and cottages. Under the shadow of the monument is the home of the Anna Warner Bailey Chapter D.A.R., an interesting resting place filled with relics of the past. Just to the north stands the Bill Memorial Library constructed of Stony Greek granite trimmed with Maynard red freestone. In the immediate neighborhood is the Groton Heights Public School, also the gift of Frederic Bill to the town. Detour to Eastern Point and Poquonock. 6.0 m. From the lower street, or ferry, the righthand road leading south follows the river to the junction of Eastern Point Road, at the fountain erected in memory of Captain William Latham of Fort Griswold fame, whose ancient homestead stands on the hill opposite. On the Groton shore opposite New London were launched in 1903 and 1904 the Northern Pacific steamships "Minnesota" and "Dakota," each of 33,000 tons displacement, the largest steamers ever built in America. They were built for the then promising^ Pacific trade with China and Manchuria, since wrecked by our feeble and futile diplomacy and lack of foreign policy. The "Dakota's" rusting skeleton now lies on the rocks off the Japan coast, saved from the humiliating fate of its American sister ships on the Pacific, due to the crass ignorance, however well meaning, of Senator LaFollette's Seaman's Bill. The site of their launching is now occupied by the rapidly expanding New London Ship & Engine Company, who make Diesel engines that are used in U.S. submarines. Here, too, are the plants of the Electric Boat Company and the Vanadium Metals Company. Eastern Point (3.0), at the entrance of New London harbor, opposite the Pequot Colony, is one of the yachting centers of America. The Griswold, one of the most luxurious hotels on the coast, the frequent visits of naval officers from the war- ships customarily stationed here, the Shenecossett Golf Links, and the other usual means of recreation combine to make Eastern Point one of the gayest spots in Connecticut during the summer. On the shore to the east of the Point is the well- kept estate and the huge stone mansion of Morton F. Plant. The conservatory and the Italian gardens have a well-deserved reputation. From Eastern Point a circuit may be made re- R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 169 joining the direct route at the village of Poquonock (6.0), where the road turns right, crossing the Poquonock river. From Groton the shorter route follows the State Road, marked in red, direct to Poquonock Bridge (3.2). Just be- yond the bridge on the right is the Town Hall of Groton, located in the geographical center of the township. The road climbs the long grade of Fort Hill from the summit of which, at the second burying ground, is a fine view. To the southeast lies the little seaside village of Noank on Mystic Harbor, a shipbuilding center; to the east lie Stonington and Watch Hill; below is the Mystic river, with Fisher's Island beyond; and to the west, Groton, at the mouth of the Thames, with the Hotel Griswold and the Groton monument. Between the two burying grounds on this hill stood the fort of Sassacus, sachem of the Pequots. The main fort, a few miles to the northeast, on Pequot Hill, overlooking the Mystic river, consisted of a long palisade having two entrances, within which were the wigwams. It was attacked by Captain John Mason in 1637 with ninety men of Hartford, Windsor, and Wethersfield, and 400 Indian allies under the Sachem Uncas. Surprised before daylight, the wigwams were set on fire. The pious Captain reported: "But God was above them, who laughed his enemies and the enemies of His People to scorn, making them as a firey oven. . . . And thus in little more than one hour's space was their impregnable Fort with themselves utterly destroyed to the number of 600 or 700, as some of themselves confessed. There were only seven taken captive, and about seven escaped." Cotton Mather, the celebrated Boston divine, writing contem- poraneously, thus vividly describes the scene: "The greatness and violence of the fire, the flashing and roaring of the arms, the shrieks and yells of men, women, and children within the Fort, and the shout- ings of Indians without, just at the dawning of the morning, exhibited a grand and awful scene. ... It was a fearful sight to see them frying in the fire, and the streams of blood quenching the same, and horrible was the stink and scent thereof; but the victory seemed a sweet sacri- fice, and they gave the praise thereof to God." Sassacus from his camp on Fort Hill, hearing of the attack, sent 300 of his warriors, too late to assist, but causing the Colonial forces great loss in their retreat. But the pursuit of the Pequots continued; one band half famished were surrounded in a swamp in Groton. Of the hundred taken, the men were dispatched, and the women and children, eighty in number, were distributed as slaves among the troops. Of those taken to Massachusetts, some were sold in the West Indies. (See p 33.) 8.0 MYSTIC (Stonington twp}. New London Co. Settled 1650. Mfg. book-binders' machinery, gas engines, silks, velvets, and woolens, menhaden oil, and fertilizer. The Mystic river, which runs through the village, was formerly the boundary line between the colonies of Connecti- cut and Massachusetts, and is now the boundary of the town- ships of Groton and Stonington. The upper reaches of the river are very beautiful with wooded, curving shores and 170 MYSTIC WESTERLY green meadows. The roads on either side following the curves lead up a narrow valley through meadows and vales to the top of Lantern Hill. The view is superb, including Montauk Point to the south, and east and west the Rhode Island and Connecticut shores. The mouth of the Mystic river is studded with islands, one of which, the Isle of Quish, is the scene of Arthur Henry's "An Island Cabin." Fisher's Island Sound from Ram Island to Fisher's Island is only two miles across, and through here the tide races. The natural attractions of the region have drawn summer colonies to Old Mystic, Lord's Point, Wamphassett, Willow Point, and Mason's Island, the southwest corner of the town. An artist colony has developed here in recent years, with an an- nual exhibition in August, usually in the assembly room of the Broadway School. On one of the rugged cliffs facing the river is Fort Rachel, where during the War of 1812 a force of twenty men drove off a British ship of war and prevented the capture of the town. Mystic is the home of Packer's Tar Soap (p 800), Lathrop's Gasoline Marine Engines, and the Standard Machinery Company, one of the oldest makers of book-binders' machinery. In the middle of the nineteenth century Mystic was a busy, bustling place of shipbuilding and launched some of the finest ships that ever rounded the Horn. The firm of George Greenman & Co. built 125 sloops, brigs, barks, and clippers for the Southern and California trade, and employed a hundred calkers, joiners, carpenters, and blacksmiths. Another firm, Irons & Grinnell, who began operations in 1840, built in all scores of vessels, including a number of Spanish gunboats. 12.5 STONINGTON. Pop (twp) 9154, (borough) 2083. New Lon- don Co. Settled 1649. Mfg. silk, machinery, velvet, and thread. Steamers to Watch Hill. Stonington, a quaint old town of quiet streets, and a popu- lar summer resort, is situated on a narrow rocky point. The first settlers came from Rehoboth, Mass., and evidently fell from grace, for according to Dr. Dwight, who wrote in 1801, "Stonington and all its vicinity suffers in religion from the nearness of Rhode Island." In August, 1814, the town was bombarded for three days by a British fleet, and sixty tons of iron were thrown into it. Iron relics of 1814 are yet to be seen about the town. Until 1815 the chief industry of Stonington Borough was the coast trade and sealing, which after 1830 was superseded by whaling. For a time Stonington Borough was New Bedford's rival. The com- fortable houses of the old shipmasters, one or two shipyards and a fishing fleet are all that remain to remind us of those days. Beyond Stonington the route passes through the village of Wequetequock River and the salt marshes bearing round the foot of Hinckley Hill, on the left just outside Westerly. The R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 171 road crosses the Pawcatuck river, the boundary between Connecticut and Rhode Island, where the red markers cease to be used. 77.5 WESTERLY. Pop 10,175. Washington Co., R.I. Settled 1665. Indian name Kichamaug. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods, thread, and printing presses; extensive greenhouses. Westerly is the center of the granite industry of Rhode Island, employing about 2000 men. This prosperous town is situated at the head of navigation on the Pawcatuck river. A tablet on the river bridge reminds us that this is "the Indian wading place, called Kitchamaug." Wilcox Park and the ' civic center ' of public buildings in the very heart of the town are pleasant features. In 1671 a division of the Newport church moved here and embraced the tenets of the Seventh-Day Baptists. For this reason some of the stores close on Saturday and open on Sunday. The "Westerly Daily Sun," established by the late Governor Utter of Rhode Island, is the only paper in the country that publishes a Sunday evening edition instead of a Saturday one. The Westerly granite is a fine-grained rock which occurs along the Eastern Connecticut Shore and extends into Rhode Island. Two varieties occur: a finely grained crystalline gray rock showing minor variations in color and texture th Westerly granite of commerce; and a light red, coarse granite. The fine and even texture of the gray variety makes it especially adapted for carved work, sculptural monu- ments, Gothic crosses, etc. The main-traveled route is described on the next page. See Rhode Island map. Note. The shortest route to Providence (43.9 m. from Westerly) turns inland following High St. and continuing through Ashaway, Hope Valley, and several more primitive hamlets. Many miles of this road lead through an apparently wild and uninhabited forest country that one would scarcely expect to find in Rhode Island, the "most thickly settled of all the States of the Union." It is a region growing in favor with those who appreciate the charm of primitive scenes and a comparative freedom from the congestion of traffic that exists on the better known ways. This route leads over Nooseneck Hill, commanding an extended view to Washing- ton. Here it joins the road from Moosup (R. 12, note). Detour to Watch Hill and Haversham. 12.5 m. A route eight miles longer than the main route described below, leads south on Elm St. along the beautiful waterfront drive. WATCH HILL (6.0), on a promontory boldly jutting into the ocean at the southwestern extremity of Rhode Island. It is a popular summer resort. 172 WESTERLY Its attractions include an ocean beach, still waters for sailing and bathing, and a most equable climate, and also a public library, good golf links, and several large hotels. The villas of many wealthy western and southern people adorn Sunset Hill and the neighboring shores. The residence of Mrs. Mary Thaw Thompson, daughter of Mrs. William Thaw of Pitts- burgh, has the appearance of a medieval castle, and the gardens have been painstakingly devised to heighten the effect of age. To the east runs Narragansett Beach, and to the west, more protected, is Napatree Beach. Near at hand, Napatree Point, shaped like a sickle, stretches westward a mile and a half to Fort Mansfield. Far to the southeast we see Block Island, and to the southwest Fisher's Island and Stonington; Montauk Point, at the eastern extremity of Long Island, lies along the southern horizon. The name is derived from the fact that watch-fires were kindled here as a signal during the Revolution. The roads about Watch Hill are in fine condition, so that it makes a good touring center. It is perhaps the most conven- ient point from which to reach Block Island, by taking the steamer which leaves New London and calls at Watch Hill. From Watch Hill the route skirts the foot of the hills which overlook the great salt ponds and lagoons that lie back of the beaches, along this shore, joining the main route, beyond the hamlet of Haversham (12.5). From Westerly the direct road bears right on Granite St. and again right at top of hill, coming into the Queen Anne Post Road, meeting Watch Hill Detour (4.5). Along the ocean front across these protected waters are numerous summer settlements, like Ocean View, Weekapaug, and Quonochon- taug. Opposite Weekapaug (22.0) we turn inland, and half a mile beyond bear east again upon the Old Post Road. Three and a half miles further along, near the road that leads down to Quonochontaug Beach, on the right stands a monument to General Stanton, the first senator from Rhode Island. Four miles beyond, on the right, the route curves by the interesting country estate known as the King Tom farm, with its historic mansion, originally built by a spendthrift Indian monarch, and tiny lake, between which is the large flat-topped boulder called Coronation Rock. About half a mile more brings us to Charlestown P.O. (29.7) in the hamlet locally known as Cross's Mills. To the south lies Pawauget, or 'Charlestown Pond,' as the modern race of pale-faces calls it, the largest of the many salt water lagoons along this south shore. Charlestown Beach, which is seen in the distance, separates it from the ocean. The remains of an old fort said to have been successively held by the Indians, the Dutch, and R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 173 the English occupy an enclosure upon a commanding knoll above the water, not far from the village crossroads. A large boulder erected near the middle of the old fort bears this in- scription: "Fort Ninigret, Memorial of the Narragansett and Niantic Indians, the Unwavering Friends and Allies of our Fathers, Erected by the State of Rhode Island." After the Great Swamp Fight at South Kingston in 1675 the remnant of the Narragansetts joined the more peaceable Niantics and were subsequently established upon what became known as the Charlestown Reservation. As late as 1822 407 remained, and 158 in 1838. In 1881 the reservation was sold for the benefit of the Indians and they were placed on the same footing as other citizens. The State still cares for the old burial ground of the Narragansett sachems, on the summit of Burial Hill. During the last century the remnants of the tribe have intermarried with the ex-slaves who were liberated by the abolition of human bondage in Rhode Island, but the several hundred negroid descendants still retain many of the characteristics of the red men. Their annual festival, known as "August Meeting," is attended by many interesting ceremonies. One mile beyond Cross's Mills, on the left, is the old Gen- eral Stanton Inn, a quaint structure of the eighteenth century, and three miles farther on is the post office of Perryville (33 7) , which bears the name of the famous Rhode Island family that gave the nation two of its greatest naval heroes. Off to the left of the Post Road, beyond Matunuck, was the home of Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, who at the age of twenty-seven won the great victory of Put-in-Bay on Lake Erie in 1813. Beside him on that bloody day was his young brother, Matthew, who later won greater fame through his tact and diplomacy in opening up the ports of Japan to the outer world. The Perry family had been mariners for generations. The father of the two commodores, Chris- topher Perry, took to the water at an early age, and it was under his command, aboard a United States frigate, that his son Oliver began his naval career as a midshipmite. Oliver's first command was the United States frigate "Revenge," which was wrecked in a dense fog on the coast near Watch Hill, but on his demanding a court-martial he was not only exonerated but praised for his able conduct under the most difficult circumstances. The route continues through a region of tumbled morainic hills, ponds, and salt marshes, with fine views of the shore and Point Judith. About two miles north of Perryville lies Worden's Pond, the largest in this region, and partly surrounded by swamps that' are still densely wooded and practically impene- trable except by canoeists. It was in the neighborhood north of Worden's Pond that the Great Swamp Fight, which ended King Philip's War, took place in 1675. A tall granite shaft marks the place where the Narragansetts, under their chief, Canonchet, were crushed by the men of Salem, under Governor Josiah Winslow. The horrors committed by the pious Puri- tans are said to have exceeded the cruelties of the Indians 174 WESTERLY WAKEFIELD themselves. Between Worden's Pond and the Post Road is a marvelous region of wild rhododendron groves surrounding more than a score of little lakes. A mile beyond Perryville, a road turning sharp to the right (35.0) leads to the little seaside hamlet of Matoonoc, or Matu- nuck, Beach, in the center of an almost unbroken twenty mile sweep of beach. At this corner, on the right, is the interesting fountain in memory of Wager Weeden, and on a knoll across the road is the house where during the latter years of his life the generosity of one of his Providence friends provided Edward Everett Hale with a summer home overlooking Point Judith, Block Island, and the southern shore nearly to Watch Hill. This was especially appreciated by him, and in his "Tarry-at-Home Travels" he says: "I like to live in New England and I like to live in the South. . . . Providence has, therefore, chosen for me this summer home of mine so far south as one can go and stay in New England." Hale was a lineal descendant of John Hull and Judith Sewall, and further on lets us into something of the inner life of the potentates of their time, and reveals a solution for the much-disputed origin of the name Point Judith. "Dear old John Hull, the same who coined the first silver money for Massachusetts and showed Cromwell and King Charles and the Sachems of New England that Massachusetts had the sovereign rights of coining money, this same John Hull had a daughter Judith. If you are well up in your Hawthorne, you know that the night Samuel Sewall (afterward Chief Justice, the same .who hanged the witches) married Judith Hull, John Hull, her father, put her into one scale of the balance and poured pine-tree shillings into the other, enough to weigh her down. One hundred twenty-five pounds sterling, the girl weighed, if you will trust me who have read the same in the manuscript ledger of her new husband. This, according to Hawthorne, was her dower. Well, this same John Hull and his some-time son-in-law Sewall went into a fine speculation in the southwestern part of Rhode Island and bought the Pataquamscut Purchase from the Indians. . . . Well, dear old John Hull wanted to give this outlying point a name and he gave Judith Hull's name, before she was Judith Sewall." Continuing on past the Matunuck road, the way leads on through South Kingston. This township, like Charlestown on the west and Narragansett on the east, is crossed by the morainic line of tumbled kames (p 24) stretching from Point Judith to Groton, spotted with ponds and swamps in the old glacial kettle holes and bordered by lagoons and long stretches of smooth white beach. The elder Winthrop thus described this Narragansett country in 1634: "The country on the west of the bay of Narragansett is all champain for many miles, but very stony and full of Indians." This region was exploited by two rival land companies fathered in Boston by John Hull and Humphrey Atherton. In 1657 "what was known as the Pettaquamscott purchase was made by John Hull and his companions." This included Point Judith. The Atherton company a little later secured land about Wickford. All this 'South County' is a region of marked individuality and charm. Facing the warm ocean and the Gulf Stream it has a more R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 175 equable climate than any other portion of New England, and here, among pines and scrub oak, wild rhododendron and holly bloom, and the luxuriant flora, is very suggestive of the South. Perhaps it was natural that here in Colonial days the life and customs should more closely resemble that of the Virginia plantations than the Puritan farms. The land was owned by a comparatively small number of families who lived in almost feudal manner. Estates of five, six, and even ten miles square existed with great flocks and herds, and produc- ing great crops for export, cultivated by slave labor, Indian and negro. The planters had great wealth and spacious mansions and lived luxuriously, lordly gentlemen in velvet coats. In 1730 the township of South Kingston, of which the present population is 5497, contained 960 whites, 333 negroes, and 193 Indians. We find evidence of the rigor with which the numerous slaves were controlled in the law: "No negroes or Indians, freemen or slaves, are to be abroad at night on penalty of not exceeding fifteen stripes." These good old days have passed, but the fields are still smiling and the lakes and bay are as beautiful as of yore, and much more appreciated, while in the wilds, reached only by cart track, enthusiastic devotees of the country have built many camps and bungalows beside the still waters of its forest- bordered lakes, and along the shore are summer resorts of every sort. Between Matunuck and Wakefield, four and a half miles beyond, the road looks out over broad stretches of salt pond and sea, and leads past numerous fine country estates of Provi- dence citizens, on many of which the old Colonial mansions have been restored to present usefulness, while the ones newly built are generally in keeping with local traditions, 39.7 WAKEFIELD. Pop (South Kingston twp) 5176 (1910), 5497 (1915). Washington Co. Settled 1670. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods. The village lies partly on the hills overlooking the long stretch of Point Judith Pond. A mile north of Wakefield Station and part of the same settlement is the busy manufac- turing village of Peacedale with woolen and worsted mills and an interesting natural history museum. Two miles beyond, in the quaint old village of Kingston Hill, is the rapidly growing State College of Agriculture and Mechanic Arts. The main route to Wickford and Providence continues on the State Road (p 1 77) . Both this route and the detour below contain many good stretches of tarvia (p 800). Detour to Narragansett Pier, Saunderstown, (Ferry to New- port) and Wickford. 14.5 m. Another road to Providence perhaps the most popular drive in the State leads through Narragansett Pier by a route which is 3.7 miles longer. To follow this turn to the right from the Tower Hill road half a mile beyond the center of Wakefield, and leaving the trolley and crossing the railroad, proceed by the shore of Silver Lake, turning shortly to the left (2.3). The road ahead leads to Point Judith and the Country Club. 176 NARRAGANSETT PIER 2.5 NARRAGANSETT PIER. Pop 1250 (1910), 1431 (1915). Wash- ington Co. Settled 1700. Narragansett Pier, a fashionable summer watering place with huge hotels and a large cottage colony, is a gay place during the short 'season' in July and August. The mile-long beach of firm sand is the center of life, and here at high noon many a Venus may be seen rising from the water. The smooth beach, the color and beauty of the summer seascape continue to attract, and without ever having obtained the social status of Newport or Bar Harbor the Pier has for more than thirty years held its own as an exalted New England summer version of Atlantic City. "The first thing that a new-comer to Narragansett Pier does," writes Brander Matthews, "is ask for the Pier itself; and he is always surprised when he is told that Narragansett has no Pier. Science informs us that there is no soda in soda water and no lead in lead pencils; so, also, is there no Pier at Narragansett Pier." Narragansett Pier was so named from two piers erected here late in the eighteenth century to provide a port for south- ern Rhode Island. The region at that time was one of agri- cultural and maritime wealth, and vast plantations. In 1856 a Philadelphia family came to this lonely waste and boarded at a farmhouse. Then there was nothing but a little straggling village and the ramshackle wharf where coal barges unloaded. The following year a few friends came with them, and the farm was called the Narragansett Boarding House. Ten years later there were four hotels, and in the decade following 1870 the Pier came to be a more compact mushroom town with inns and hotels of varying size and comfort. During the last quarter of a century it has been 'the Trouville of America.' The New Casino stands on a point of land thrust out from the end of the beach, with Italian gardens extending from the pavilion to the'sea. The old Casino was burned down in 1900, but its stone arch, a picturesque reminder, recently restored, still spans the ocean road. Back of the beach behind the lagoon amid great trees is Canonchet, the celebrated estate of the Sprague family, but the historic mansion, where so much of comedy and tragedy was enacted during several decades, has been de- stroyed by fire. A splendid view of the bay from Providence to Point Judith, and including Fall River, Jamestown, and Newport, is obtained from Narragansett Heights. Ocean Road runs through rocky open country commanding views over the bay and open sea to Point Judith, five miles to the south. The finest estates are on the Rocks on the way out to the Point, Hazard Castle, a stalwart stone structure with its tall tower rising from a thick growth of trees, and R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 177 Dunmere with a little lake and gardens overlooking the sea. A pleasant walk follows along the Rocks close to the shore. The Point Judith Country Club is on a ridge overlooking the ocean and commands a beautiful view. The polo tourna- ments held here in July and August are the most important social events in the summer. To the west of the Point the Federal Government has built extensive and costly break- waters for a harbor of refuge, still incomplete, though exten- sively used by coastwise vessels. From Narragansett the road runs north, curves right and crosses the Pettaquamscott by an ancient covered bridge (4.0) and ascends the ridge of Boston Neck. In the valley to the west lies the little hamlet of Bridgeton. Turning right and crossing trolley (8.0) the route bears left and then forks right (9.1) into SAUNDERSTOWN (9.3), a summer place of much beauty and quiet charm, with several hotels and many cottages. Note. Saunderstown to Newport, Providence, Boston, or Cape Cod. The ferry from Saunderstown to Jamestown on Conanicut Island (R. 32), thence across the island by the road, and again by ferry to Newport, offers perhaps the most interest- ing route from here to Providence or Cape Cod (see maps). Between Saur derstown and Jamestown the ferry passes Dutch Island, which is owned by the U.S. Government and occupied by the extensive works of Fort Greble. Just south of Saunders- town on the left is the great weather-beaten house of "the unfortunate Hannah Robinson," once the finest mansion for miles around, and beyond Saunderstown to the north is Barbers Height (200 ft), commanding a glorious outlook. To the west of Barbers Height in the valley at the head of the Petta- quamscott, on a dam near the outlet of Pausacaco Pond, still stands the house in which the famous artist Gilbert Stuart was born in 1755. It was long used as a snuff mill and later as a grist mill. The Narragansett Detour continues by Hamilton village (12.6) with a right and left turn across the Nannacatucket river, crossing the trolley and the R.R. near Wickford Sta- tion. Just beyond the iron bridge bear right on Bridge St. and left on Main St. into Wickford (14.5). From Wakefield the direct road follows the line of the old Indian 'Pequot Trail' along the crest of Tower and Mc- Sparren Hills, commanding far-reaching views of Narragan- sett Bay from Point Judith past Beavertail to Newport and Sakonnet Light. Along the foot of the ridge the Petta- quamscott river with its chain of lakes winds through a green expanse of salt marshes. Across the valley to the east 178 NARRAGANSETT PIER EAST GREENWICH is Boston Neck, a bold ridge bordering the water. The Neck was the home of the Hazards, a famous family in this region during the eighteenth century, of whom there were so many of the name of Tom that each had his separate sobriquet. To 'Shepard Tom' South County is indebted for much of its fascinating literature, the wellknown "Johnny Cake Papers" perhaps being the most famous contribution. Tower Hill, indeed, has much Colonial history. Here, two centuries ago, dwelt the scholarly Dr. McSparren, first minister of the first Episcopal Church in New England, and here at an earlier date George Fox, the great Quaker preacher, gathered many of his faith in the house of Jireh Bull on the hill, where the company of Friends regularly met until the house was burned by the Indians in 1676. It was this outrage that led in retaliation to the Great Swamp Fight nearby which broke the power of the Narragansetts. The route continues along the State Road over McSparren Hill, turning left (46.5) and right into Shadylea and across R.R. at Belleville Station (50.0). Passing through Coalition Corners (50.2) the route joins the Detour from Narragansett Pier on Main St. (50.8). 51.0 WICKFORD. Pop (North Kingston twp) 4048 (1910), 3931 (1915). Washington Co. Settled 1637. U.S. Shellfish Hatchery. Steamer to Newport (R. 32). A village of about 1500 permanent inhabitants and with several times as many summer residents, Wickford is the principal village in the town of North Kingston. This ancient and attractive village, replete with traditions of the past when her far-flung fleets brought to her the wealth of the Indies, lies on the shore of a deeply indented bay, and the waters so much enter into the life and outlook that it has been fantastically called the 'Venice of America.' Its old houses and quiet streets are full of local color to reward the artist. At the edge of the village is the curious square church of St. Paul's. This "old Narragansett Church," originally built on McSparren Hill in 1707, was removed to its present site in 1800. Within is a tablet commemorating Gilbert Stuart. Not far north of Wickford is the Great Grave where forty soldiers, victims of the Great Swamp Fight in King Philip's War, were buried, and here, close to the line of the trolley and fronting the bay, is the Babbitt farmhouse, a low-spreading structure with massive hewn oaken beams within. This is the Richard Smith Blockhouse, at Cocumcussuc, built about 1680 by Richard Smith, Jr., partly from the materials and upon the original foundation of the old garrison house which had been burned by the Indians during King Philip's War. The roof is apparently of later construction than the rest of the house. The original trading post, built in 1637 by Richard R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 179 Smith, was burned in King Philip's War. The present struc- ture continued to be occupied by his descendants until through intermarriage it came to the Opdykes, a family of Dutch ori- gin who long prospered in this neighborhood. The road north, into East Greenwich and beyond, follows in a large part the old Pequot Trail through North Kingston, and crosses the Potowomut river. To the right is Potowomut Neck on which are fine country estates, and the birthplace of General Nathanael Greene, second in command to Washing- ton in the War of the Revolution, is close by. The State Road rounds the head of Green Cove and enters 57.5 EAST GREENWICH. Pop (twp) 3420 (1910), 3604 (1915). Kent Co. Settled 1641. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods. This is a pleasant old town overlooking Cowesett Bay, with an oldfashioned conservative atmosphere. As one strolls along the quiet, shaded streets one gains the impression of cool white walls, green blinds, and .brass knockers. Upon the hill above the intersection of the two principal streets are the finest of the old houses, standing beneath venerable trees which were there when Generals Sullivan, Greene, and Lafayette walked these same streets. Just south of the Corners is a handsome white Court House with a cupola, built in Colonial times. This and the General Varnum house are perhaps the best examples of Colonial architecture in the town. The chief inn opposite still has the old village tavern sign, a wooden bunch of grapes. The Greene Memorial House, marked by a plate upon its front, stands on the northern side of Division St., half a mile up the hill to the east of Main St., and was built about 1684, but successive generations have added to it here and there, so that now it is a large, rambling, oldfashioned structure, the older portion in the center being marked by a large stone chimney. This was the home of Governor Silas Greene, the birthplace of General Francis Greene of Gettysburg fame, and former Police Commissioner Greene of New York. The old county jail at the corner of Marlborough and Queen Sts. has been transformed into a dwelling. Southwest in a commanding position are the buildings of the East Greenwich Academy, a famous Methodist school established 1802, and the Quaker Meeting House, no longer used. A trading post and an inn were erected in this neighborhood in 1641. Here the Massachusetts and Plymouth forces met before the Great Swamp Fight in 1675. The greatest of the sons of East Greenwich was Nathanael Greene, who in the Revolution stood next to Washington in ability and author- ity, and on whom Washington leaned with confidence and affection. He was born on Potowomut Neck in 1742, and sprang, like so many fighting men, of Quaker stock. l8o EAST GREENWICH PROVIDENCE Beyond East Greenwich the route follows the trolley in general northward along the line of the Old Pequot Trail. On the shore of Greenwich Bay is an old Indian shell heap, several hundred feet in extent, where the Indians manufac- tured wampum from the blue part of the clam shells. There are a number of Indian burial grounds in this vicinity, in which the bodies are always found buried in a sitting posture. The beautiful elm-bordered street passes close to the little stations of Cowesett and Chippewanoxett. At Apponaug (60.3) the route turns square to the right at four corners near the substantial Town Hall and Court House. One mile southwest of the Town Hall is a boulder known as Drum Rock, so hidden in the bushes that it needs a guide to find it. It is so poised that it can be rocked by the hand with- out overturning, making a deep bell-like sound. This was used by the Indians as an alarm signal. Beyond the Apponaug Town Hall the popular route to Providence turns left with trolley (see next page). Note. The poorer road straight ahead leads to the city via Pontiac and the State Institutions, and the fine road to the left connects with the Nooseneck Hill Road in the populous center of the 'Valley Villages.' I Detour via Old Warwick to Providence. 14.0 m. The right fork which runs under the steam railroad tracks at Apponaug Station leads to Nausauket and numerous summer colonies, passing through OLD WARWICK (3.0). Today this is but a village, although at one time the seat of government of the third town of importance in Rhode Island. At a crossroad is the old, almost cubical, dilapidated Assembly House with the date 1726 over the door; and the old inn where the British General Prescott was taken the day following his capture still exists. The name of Warwick is due to this land having been granted to the Earl of Warwick in 1631. The shores about here, from East Greenwich all the way to Providence, are closely lined with summer settlements, from south to north, Nausauket, Buttonwoods, and Oakland Beach on Greenwich Bay, and Long Meadow, Bay Side, River View, Shawomet, Conimicut, Lakewood, and Pawtuxet on the east shore of Narragansett Bay. Warwick Neck, extending to the south and separating Green- wich Bay from the broader Narragansett Bay, is a fashionable place of summer residence, with some fine estates. A promi- nent landmark on the Neck, visible from almost every hill in Rhode Island, is the stone tower on the estate of the late Sena- tor Aldrich, who was popularly known as the ' General Man- R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 181 ager ' of the United States. To the east of the Neck is Rocky Point, a popular excursion resort, famous for its clambakes. The Detour leads on up the shore into Providence via Aliens Ave., and Eddy St. to Exchange Place (14.0). From Apponaug, unless we wish to make the detour through these shore settlements, we follow the trolley to the left, pass- ing Gorton's Pond and Greenwood Station, where there is a sharp and somewhat dangerous turn to the right and another to the left, just beyond the railroad bridge, and passing through Hill's Grove and Lincoln Park we bear to the left with branch- ing telegraph lines into Elmwood Ave., and continue through Norwood and over the Pawtuxet river through the Auburn district of the suburban city of Cranston. Crossing Park Ave. we enter the city of Providence and presently pass Roger Williams Park, which must be visited later (p 192). The original portion of the park (about one quarter of its present area) was deeded to the city in 1871 by Betsy Williams, a direct descendant of Roger Williams. Her house, built in 1775, stands in the grounds, and the Williams family burying ground is close by. A small portion of the park lake with the bandstand and casino are visible on the right, and the Anna H. Man gates guard the main entrance. A mile beyond the park is Columbus Triangle with its monument, and another mile farther Elmwood Ave. leads into Broad St. at Trinity Square. We proceed down Broad St. and on through Wey- bosset St. to Market Square, or turn left on Dorrance St. to Exchange Place, the civic center. 70.0 PROVIDENCE. Pop 224,326 (1910), 247,660 (1915); 70,000 foreign-born. State Capital, and County-seat of Providence Co. Settled 1636. Port of Entry. Second largest city in New England. Important manufacturing center. Mfg. jew- elry and silverware, bronze, textiles, tools, engines, files, stoves, cigars, chemicals, etc. Value of Product, $120,380,000; Payroll, $30,099,000. Steamers to New York, Philadelphia, Baltimore, Norfolk, and foreign ports; and in season to Block Island and all Narragansett Bay points. Providence, the city of Roger Williams and the capital of the State, is situated on the Providence river (the northern arm of Narragansett Bay) at its confluence with the Seekonk and at the head of deep water navigation. Its commanding position at the head of the bay and its central situation in the midst of the great industrial population have given it the name of 'The Southern Gateway of New England.' It has been stated that the Providence Metropolitan District ranks sixth among American communities in the amount of products of its factories and fifth in the size of its annual payroll to the 1 82 PROVIDENCE operatives. It has some 3000 factories and plants, employing about 50,000 operatives. This is the first city in the country in the manufacture of woolens and worsteds, jewelry and silverware, the latter two combined producing $35,000,000 worth of manufactured goods and employing 12,000 people. A twenty-mile circuit with the Providence City Hall as center encloses the largest textile manufacturing district on the continent. Chief among these concerns are the mills owned by B. B. and R. Knight. The late Robert Knight was the largest individual cotton mill owner in the world, controlling in Rhode Island alone about a score of mills together with their surrounding villages. Provi- dence is said to have the largest mechanical tool factory (Brown and Sharpe Company), the largest file factory (Nicholson File Company), the largest engine factory (Corliss Engine Com- pany), the largest screw factory (American Screw Company), and the largest silverware factory (the Gorham Mfg. Co.) in the world, and the quality of the water in the small fresh water rivers near at hand makes it a national center for the bleaching and finishing of fabrics. Few cities in the country have more landmarks of prime historic interest or such a collection of notable examples of Colonial architecture. The museums and libraries are particu- larly interesting, and several of the parks unusually attractive. It is the seat of Brown University, one of the oldest and best- known American colleges. The populous suburbs constitute a 'metropolitan district,' ranking eleventh among America's communities and second in New England, with a population of over half a million. Providence was founded in 1636 by Roger Williams, the first suc- cessful apostle in America, if not in the world, of the theory of Freedom of Conscience and of the separation of Church and State, and the first to assert the right of the native Indians to their lands. Banished from Massachusetts owing to his advanced ideas, he settled on the east bank of the Seekonk river, near the spot now marked by a tablet on the shore of Omega Pond, but warned from there by the Governor of Plymouth he dropped down the river in a canoe with five companions. As they passed a cove near the present India Street Bridge they were hailed by some Indians assembled on Slate Rock, with the words, "What Cheer, Netop [friend]?" This rock now lies buried under Roger Williams Square, near Power St. Continuing on round Fox Point, and through the broad "Salt River," where the business dis- trict of the city now stands, the little company paddled up the Moshas- suck and landed at a bubbling spring which is said to have decided Roger Williams to choose the site; it still runs in the basement of a house on North Main St., near St. John's Church, as a tablet indicates. Roger Williams named the new settlement Providence, "In grateful remembrance of God's merciful Providence to me in my distress." He received from the Sachems Canonicus and Miantonomoh a grant, now in the City Hall, to the lands of " Moshassuc," but aggression and ill-will on the part of Massachusetts and Connecticut, both of whom R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 183 claimed ownership to the shores of Narragansett Bay, made it necessary for him in 1644 to go to England to obtain a royal charter for the new colony. While there he published his famous Indian Dictionary, or "Key into the Language of America," and, it is said, partly supported himself by reading Dutch to John Milton. Previous to this, however, the men of Providence had in 1638 drawn up their celebrated "Com- pact," little realizing that it was destined to revolutionize the whole science of- civilized government. The ancient parchment, now treas- ured in the City Hall, is perhaps the most precious in existence, for "under it the doctrine of religious liberty was given to the world." Though the settlers of Rhode Island had always maintained friendly intercourse with the Indians, the struggling settlement was nearly de- stroyed during King Philip's War, when it became the battle ground upon which the two neighboring colonies fought the red man. By the time of the Revolution Providence had developed into a thriving commercial city, especially in regard to the China and India trade. The names of many of the streets Pound, Sovereign, Shilling, Dollar, Benevolent, Friendship, Peace- reflect this early commercial importance and also a strong Quaker element. "There grew up several families in Providence- notably that of the four Brown brothers, Nicholas, Joseph, John, and Moses who showed a commercial grasp and daring in the East India trade which made them leaders in the community; the Brown family alone em- ployed eighty-four vessels in operations reaching all parts of the world." Among their other activities they practically controlled the spermaceti market and the candle manufacturers of all the colonies in the days when candles were the only means of illumination. The British schooner "Gaspee" chasing a Providence packet boat ran aground at what is known as Gaspee Point (p 192). John Brown and his brothers planned the capture of the schooner. A party of men led by Abraham Whipple approached the stranded "Gaspee" with' muffled oars under cover of the darkness, seized and carried off the crew, and burned the vessel. This incident was planned in James Sabin's old tavern, and the room has since been cut out and trans- ferred intact to the Talbot House, 209 Williams St. History records the following letter: "You, Abraham Whipple on the loth day of June 1772, burned His Majesty's vessel, the Gaspee, and I will hang you at the yard arm"; and the reply: "Sir James Wallace Always catch a man before you hang him." Thus, say Providence folk, was spilled the first blood of the Revolution. This, however, was not the only act to indicate that the independent spirit of the founder still prevailed in the community, for the "People of Providence in Town Meeting Assembled" was the first authorized body to recommend the permanent establishment of a Continental Congress, May 17, 1774, and the General Assembly of Rhode Island on June 15 of the same year appointed Samuel Ward and Esek Hop- kins as delegates thereto. As commemorated by the tablet on the Chamber of Commerce building, the people of Providence effectively protested against unjust taxation by burning British-taxed tea on the night of March 2, 1775, and by deliberate act of the General Assembly on May 4, 1776, just two months before the Declaration of Independence at Philadelphia, Rhode Island, in her own "Independence Hall" which still stands as the Sixth District Court House in Providence, "struck the name of the King from the Charter of her liberties," and boldly stood forth as a free and independent State. The versatile Esek Hopkins was the first Admiral and Commander- in-chief of the American Navy, though Rhode Island had some time previously blazed the way by providing for a navy of its own with 1 84 PROVIDENCE Abraham Whipple in command. He promptly captured as his first prize the tender of the British frigate "Rose," then off Newport, and fired the first cannon at the Royal Navy, June 15, 1775. Although at one time early in the nineteenth century Providence possessed more ships than did even the city of New York, the commerce of the port declined greatly after the War of 1812, but the textile in- dustries of Providence had grown with such amazing rapidity that she turned aside from the ocean to tend her looms and spinning-frames. It is said that cotton manufacturing in America began in Providence in 1788 when Peck, Dexter, and Anthony set up the first spinning- jenny. Soon afterward Moses Brown secured the services of Samuel Slater, who in 1790 set up from memory a replica of the new spinning machinery of Arkwright in the old stone mill on the Pawtucket river (p 194). This laid the foundations of America's textile industries. "Forty years later the Brown family had sold its last trading vessel and identified itself with the manufacture of cotton goods." Today Rhode Island leads in the production per head of textiles. And now again Providence bids fair to become a world port. The City, State, and Federal Government have cooperated to deepen and straighten the channel, piers have been built, and transatlantic liners sail to the very gates of the city. In the near future Providence will have direct rail connection with the Pacific Coast. It is several days nearer to Panama than is San Francisco, and, with the exception of Key West, is the nearest of the U.S. Atlantic Coast cities to the entire east coast of South America, while the population and industries within easy reach by automobile truck delivery are exceeded on the western hemisphere only by those within equal distance of New York and Philadelphia (i.e., over 5,000,000 people within 80 miles). Explorations in Providence. The city is laid out, or rather has developed itself, in some- what the form of an eccentric spider's web, or a wheel with somewhat bent and crooked spokes extending from Exchange Place, the civic center, in about every direction. From this point radiate the State Road and Highway systems of Rhode Island and parts of Connecticut and Massachusetts, and about sixty-three car lines have their terminus here. Most of the important highways are overcrowded and much too narrow, though many millions are now being spent on improvements. CIVIC CENTER AND CAPITOL HILL. The open square of Exchange Place, in the heart of the city, with its beautiful Mall and City Hall Park, is at present the finest entrance plaza in America. On the north side is the Union Station, which is used by an average of 35,000 to 40,000 passengers per day. It cost about $4,500,000, and has been called by railroad experts "the most efficient operating station ever built in America." On the west is the City Hall, which with recent improvements has cost about $1,300,000, and on the east is the new Federal Building erected in 1908 at a cost of approximately the same amount. Statues of Colonel Henry H. Young, Chief of Scouts under General Sheridan, and R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 185 of General Burnside, the Bajnotti Fountain, and the Soldiers' and Sailors' Monument, adorn the square. North of the station and beyond a future public garden, in a commanding situation on Capitol Hill, is the State House, a masterpiece by McKim, Mead & White. It is a huge Renais- sance structure of Georgia marble surmounted by one of the few marble domes in the world (235 ft, fine view). The pur- pose for which the colony was founded is expressed in the in- scription over the south portico, "To set forth a lively experi- ment that a most flourishing civil State may stand and best be maintained with full liberty in religious concernments." In the State Chamber are the famous full-length portrait of 1 86 PROVIDENCE Washington by Gilbert Stuart, and portraits of General Nathanael Greene and Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry by Gari Melchers. The State House grounds cover twenty-seven acres, and the building was completed in 1903 at a cost of $3,200,000. Providence has been the sole capital of Rhode Island since 1900; before that time it divided the honor with Newport. Beyond the State House, and likewise surrounded by exten- sive grounds, is the fine State Normal School. The building cost $500,000. West of the Normal School is the great plant of the Brown and Sharpe Company, manufacturers of fine machin- ery and measuring instruments, occupying over twenty-four acres of floor space and employing about 5500 operatives. Their products go to all parts of the civilized world. THE EAST SIDE TOUR. Returning to Exchange Place we take Dorrance St., passing the City Hall on the right, and crossing Westminster St., the chief business thoroughfare, we turn left, into Weybosset. On the left is the Arcade, built 1828, a portico of huge Ionic columns with shops, which leads through to Westminster St. We pass through 'Turks Head,' with its tall office buildings, where Weybosset and Westminster Sts. converge, into Market Square, called the widest bridge for its length in the world. On the right, the picturesque line of old warehouses is a visible reminder of the early days of maritime activity. Be- hind these buildings, on South Main St., is the Joseph Brown house (1774), now occupied by the oldest bank in New Eng- land, the Providence National. Its round gable is a distinc- tive type of Rhode Island architecture. Straight ahead is the Old Market House (1773), now occu- pied by the Chamber of Commerce, bearing a tablet commem- orating the burning of British-taxed tea, March 2, 1775. Pass- ing to the left of the building, we turn into North Main, or 'Cheapside,' which with South Main formed the original 'Towne Streete' of the settlement. It was a shore road, its western side washed by the waters of the Great Salt Bay. The houses of Roger Williams and his companions were built on the eastern side, their orchards running up the hillside. Just before reaching the tunnel entrance we pass the new Textile building of the School of Design, on our right, and over the tunnel is the main building of the institution. The First Baptist Meeting House, founded by Roger Will- iams, is the oldest Baptist Church and one of the finest ex- amples of Colonial architecture in the country. The present building dates from 1775, and from the belfry the curfew is still rung every evening at nine. The church was built from one of R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 187 the alternative plans drawn by the English architect James Gibbs for the church of St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, London. Joseph Brown, who with William Sumner was its architect, was one of the 'Four Brothers' who accomplished so much for the material prosperity of Providence. He also designed his own house, previously mentioned, now the home of the Provi- dence National Bank, and that of his brother John at 52 Power St. On Commencement Day the graduates of Brown march down College Hill to receive their diplomas in this church. Just beyond the overhead tracks, to the right, on Meeting St. is a small brick building, the first free school in Provi- dence (1768) and the first open-air school in America. A block further on is the Old State House (Independence Hall, 1762), where the Rhode Island Colonial Assembly declared its independence of Great Britain on May 4, 1776, two months prior to the famous act in Philadelphia. A tablet on the right, at the corner of Howland St., marks the site of Roger Williams' house. Another tablet on the left announces that the Roger William Spring still flows in the basement of the house No. 244, corner of Alamo Lane. St. John's Church was built in 1810. Curving upgrade on North Main St. we come into Benefit St., where we turn sharply to the right. This street, laid out for the "benefit " of those who had houses on the sidehill, ran through their orchards and graveyards. We pass several dignified old houses with good doorways. At the corner of Bowen St., on our left, is the Sulli- van Dorr house (1809), rich in Colonial detail and mural decorations. Roger Williams was buried in the yard. It was built by the father of Thomas W. Dorr, hero and victim of Dorr's Rebellion. As champion of the people's party in the struggle for equal suffrage against the limited suffrage clause in the charter of 1662 Dorr was elected Governor by irregular and illegitimate voting. Refused recog- nition by the Supreme Court of the State and by President Tyler, Dorr and a few enthusiasts mustered to arms and vainly attempted to seize the arsenal. Convicted of high treason and sentenced to life im- prisonment, Dorr was released shortly after and soon restored to citizen- ship. His cause triumphed in the main, though its details are still a source of party strife. We pass the Old State House on our right, and on the left, the Golden Ball Inn, now the Mansion House, opened 1784. THE SULLIVAN DORR HOUSE 1 88 PROVIDENCE President Washington and Thomas Jefferson made it their headquarters on August 21, 1790, while General Lafayette was entertained here in 1784 and again forty years later. To the right, on Thomas St., are the quaint little Art Club and the Fleur de Lis Studios. On our left, at the corner of Angell St., is the Supreme Court House. Again passing the First Baptist Meeting House, on the right is the Rhode Island School of Design with a notable museum and a school of applied art. It owns practically all of the square bounded by Waterman, Benefit, North Main, and College Sts. It has about noo students, and nearly 100,000 persons a year visit its galleries. At n Waterman St. is the main building, containing noteworthy collections of Japanese pottery, textiles, paintings, casts, etc. Reached through this building, but facing on Benefit St., is Colonial House, a fireproof Georgian mansion built to hold the superb Charles L. Pendleton collec- tion of antique furnishings. It is absolutely unique as a museum, reproducing perfectly the luxurious home of an eighteenth-century gentleman. Beyond Colonial House is Memorial Hall, which belongs to the School of Design. On our left, at the corner of Waterman St., we pass the Uni- versity Club. On the left, corner of College St., is the Handi- craft Club with an interesting courtyard. On two opposite corners are the County Court House and the Athenaeum. The latter, founded 1753, is one of the few remaining proprietary libraries in the country. It has a small collection of paintings, including portraits by Reynolds and Van Dyke, and "The Hours," Malbone's celebrated miniature executed in 1801. Poe and Mrs. Whitman carried on their literary courtship in .the alcoves of the Athenaeum. In the Art Room is a portrait of Mrs. Whitman by Cephas Thompson. Sarah Helen Whitman, the Rhode Island poetess, is chiefly cele- brated on account of her romance with Poe, who declared her to be "pre-eminent in refinement of art, enthusiasm, imagination, and genius." After the death of his wife he met Mrs. Whitman and a conditional engagement took place, which she later reluctantly broke because of his habits. Poe died soon after and Mrs. Whitman wrote a volume in his praise. On one of their visits to the Athenaeum in 1848 Mrs. Whitman showed him a charming poem called "Ulalume," in the "American Review" for December, 1847. When Poe smilingly admitted that he himself was the author, the librarian brought the magazine, and Foe's signature to the verse was secured. This is the heart of the Colonial district for which Provi- dence is famous, and of which a prominent Boston archi- tect recently wrote: "The group on College Hill remains the most truly aristocratic and most beautiful examples of a style that in New England has never elsewhere flowered to so full a fruition of intelligence, aristocracy, and beauty." R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE 189 While the mansions give evidence of the generous hospitality and wealth of Colonial days, the distinction of Providence rests in its preservation of so many examples of all grades of the Colonial from those of simplest design to the most elaborate. A remarkable feature of Providence is that "fashion has never drifted from its original moorings. Wealth and the delight of old associations, quaintness and modern elegance combine to beautify today the same sites that were claimed by the aristocracy of the city's childhood." The steepness of the slopes has saved the residence district and diverted business along the valleys and out over the more level West Side. The detached red brick houses of Colonial architecture with marble trimmings and white wooden pillars usually stand well back from the street. "I see," said James Russell Lowell when in Providence, "you have fifty feet of self-respect be- tween your houses and the street." Continuing along Benefit St. we cross Hopkins St. Here at No. 9, in a plain and unpretentious house built in 1742, lived Stephen Hopkins, nine times Governor of Rhode Island, Chief Justice, and Signer of the Declaration of Independence, and here on April 6, 1776, Washington was his guest. On Benevo- lent St., at the left, is the Hope Club, and next above, the Crawford Allen House (1820). The First Congregational Church, occupying the corner formed by Benevolent and Benefit Sts., was built in 1816. At the corner of Benefit and Power Sts. (52 Power) is the John Brown House (1786), re- ferred to by John Quincy Adams as "the most magnificent and elegant private mansion that I have ever seen on this continent." The house was designed for John Brown by his brother Joseph. It is now the residence of the capitalist Marsden J. Perry, whose collection of Shakespeariana is only rivaled by that of the British Museum. Next beyond, at 357 Benefit St., is the John Carter Brown House (1791). Turning left into Williams St. we pass (No. 66) the Carrington House (1813), one of the most picturesque mansions on the hill. Just beyond, we turn left through a lane, and again left into Power St., and right into Brown. On the righthand corner is the T. P. Ives House (1804) with an interesting portico. The Annmary Brown Memorial is a plain white marble building containing ancient and modern paintings, personal and family relics, and a notable exhibit of early printing, wood engraving, and illuminated books. Mr. Alfred W. Pollard of the British Museum considers that this collection offers a better idea of the development of early printing than any other in the world. At the end of the street is the Middle Campus of Brown 1 90 PROVIDENCE University. Here is the John Carter Brown Library, said to contain the very finest collection of Americana in the world. The building was designed by Shepley, Rutan & Coolidge. The college was founded at Warren in 1764 under the name of Rhode Island College, and removed to Providence in 1770. Nicholas Brown and others of that family greatly aided the college, and in 1804 the name was changed in their honor. We turn left into George St., and right into Prospect, past the Front Campus. The college has beautiful memorial gates, and among the interesting buildings are University Hall (1770), which served as a hospital for the Franco-American army dur- ing a great part of the Revolution; Hope College (1822); the John Hay Memorial Library of white marble on the left; the John Carter Brown Library, already mentioned, and the Carrie Clock Tower, erected in 1904 by an Italian, Paul Bajnotti, in memory of his wife, who was one of the Brown heiresses. Turning right into Waterman St., past the Historical Society (No. 66) and Edward Dexter House (1796), the second building beyond, we enter a newer residential district. We turn right into Hope St. (President's house on right, on corner of Manning), left into Young Orchard Ave., left into Cooke St., left into Angell St., left into Hope St., and left into Waterman St., which we follow for about one mile. Just be- fore reaching Red Bridge we turn left on East River St., and curve to the right downgrade along the Seekonk shore and past Blackstone Park. Blackstone Park with a picturesque ravine and native foliage but no artificial attractions runs along the shore for a mile and a half. We curve left upgrade on Irving Ave., and immediately right on Loring Ave., which swings around to the left into Grotto Ave., on which we turn to the right, then left into Lincoln Ave., and to the right on Blackstone Boulevard in a new residential district. On the right is Butler Hospital for nervous and mental dis- orders. It is richly endowed, and its grounds (120 acres), laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted, are open to the public. The pathway through the 'grotto' to the Seekonk river is particularly attractive. We turn right into Rochambeau Ave., which bisects Swan Point Cemetery. About three fifths of a mile further on we turn left, going out through the main gates, and turn southward along the Boulevard (becoming Butler Ave.), past the Lincoln School on the left. We turn right into Orchard Ave., left into Wayland, and right into Angell St. Beyond the Dexter Asylum stone wall we turn sharp right into Stimpson Ave., which curves to the left, and then turn right, on Hope St. Opposite is Miss Wheeler's School, for girls. We pass on the R. 2 2. NEW LONDON TO PROVIDENCE IQI right Dexter Asylum, founded in 1828, an almshouse for those who have been former taxpayers. It is the oldest charitable institution in the city, and remarkable in being one of the few great public benefactions in the world that is self-sustaining for running expenses. Its attractive and highly cultivated farm of some twenty acres, formerly far out in the country, is now surrounded by a fashionable residence district. Just beyond on the right is the side entrance to the Moses Brown School, which has a spacious and beautiful campus. Moses Brown was famous among the founders of American cotton manufacturing, and an influential member of the Society of Friends, by whom the school was established. Further on we pass the East Side High School (the other four high schools are on the west side of the city) and Hope Reservoir. Here we turn right into Olney St., which brings us to another of the new residential districts. At the end of the street we turn right into Arlington Ave., and again right into Lloyd, passing between Dexter Asylum grounds on the left and Moses Brown Front Campus on our right. Crossing Hope St., we next turn left into Prospect St., passing the Christian Science Church on our left, then left into Angell St., and left into Brown St. On Angell St. near Brown St. is Churchill House, the home of the Women's Club. East of the college campus, Brook St., in a depression, follows the valley of a former stream along which were the quarters of the numerous slaves, and today many negro dwellings still exist in this region. At the right, on Meeting and Gushing Sts., are the five buildings of the Women's College in Brown University. We turn left into Bowen St., cross Prospect St., proceed down the hill, and turn left into Congdon St. From Prospect Terrace with its fine elms, on the right, there is a fine view of the city below the slope of College Hill and out over the West Side. We continue down Congdon St., turn right into Angell, and cross Benefit St. diagonally to the left, turning down Water- man St., across Post Office Square to Exchange Place. THE WEST SIDE TOUR. For Roger Williams Park and the objects of interest on the West, Side we start northwest on Dorrance St., turn left into Fountain St., and cross La Salle Square diagonally to the right, into -Broadway. The interesting district of 'Little Italy' may be reached by any cross street to the right from Broadway. One mile further on we turn left into Tobey St., left into Westminster, and right into Parade, past Dexter Training Ground. At the State Armory on Cranston St., said to contain the largest hall in New England, we turn left and 192 PROVIDENCE immediately right into Dexter, left into Sprague, and right into Elmwood Ave., which we follow to Roger Williams Park, noting the Columbus Statue on the way and a glimpse of the great silverware and bronze-casting establishment of the Gorham Manufacturing Company beyond. Roger Williams Park is one of the finest city parks in the country. It comprises 432 acres of forest and hills with a natural chain of lakes, and about nine miles of drives. The original portion of this park was deeded to the city by Betsy Williams, a direct descendant of Roger Williams. Her house, built 1775, stands in the grounds and contains articles of historic interest. There are also a casino, a natural history museum, with valuable collections, tennis courts, and amuse- ments for children. Entering the park gates we swing to the right past the Casino, the Williams Statue, and the Betsy Williams Cottage; turn right downhill and immediately to the right across a bridge. Beyond a second bridge we curve left, passing the boathouse on left, and cross another bridge to the island, where there are lovely rose gardens to be explored. Keeping the Superintend- ent's house and gardens on our right, we curve left and cross a fourth bridge, immediately turning right along the park boule- vard. Seven tenths of a mile further on we turn left into Nor- wood Ave. We turn right into Broad St., which we follow, keep- ing left at a fork just beyond, past the entrance to Rhodes Place with its enormous dance hall and canoe clubs and boathouses, to the bridge in old Pawtuxet. To the right are the falls of the Pawtuxet river. Pawtuxet Neck is across the cove to the left. The road straight ahead leads to Metropolitan Park Reservations on the bay, and the historic Gaspee Point (p 183). We turn back two blocks, right into Sheldon St., left into Fort Ave., jog left into Ocean St., and immediately right into Narragansett Boulevard around Stillhouse Cove, which is now a part of the Metropolitan Park System. On the right is the Rhode Island Yacht Club, and beyond are the Edgewood and Washington Park Yacht Clubs. Edgewood is a fashion- able residence district between Roger Williams Park and the bay. One mile further and two blocks to the right is Edge- wood Beach, the busiest bathing place in the State. We turn right into New York Ave., curving left around base of Fort Independence (1775). There is a magnificent view from the top of the fort; in the foreground is the new City Quay and the largest precipitation plant and sewage disposal establish- ment in the country, more interesting to the tourist than might be imagined. To the north is the State Pier and a fine pros- pect over the harbor; directly opposite, Kettle Point and Bar- R. 2 3- PROVIDENCE TO BOSTON 193 rington Parkway; and to the south, Narragansett Bay and its many islands, and boats by the thousands. Returning via New York Ave., we turn right into Aliens Ave., past warehouses and piers. A mile and a half beyond we turn left into Blackstone St., right into Eddy, and left through the gates of Rhode Island Hospital, the second largest in New England. We pass through the extensive and beautiful hospital grounds, turn left into Lockwood St., and right into Plain St. to Hayward Park. Curving left around the park, we take Beacon Ave. to Broad St. with the Y.M.C.A. on the left. We turn right, passing St. Francis Xavier Acad- emy, and just before reaching the Beneficent Congregational Church, erected in 1810 and familiarly known as 'Round Top,' we turn sharp left into Weybosset by reverse fork. At Cathedral Square is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of SS. Peter and Paul, and the statue of Thomas A. Doyle, for eigh- teen years Mayor of Providence, to whose efforts the city water and sewer systems are due. We turn right, across West- minster St., through Jackson, right into Washington past the Y.W.C.A. on the righthand corner; on the left is the fine new building of the Order of Elks, and next to it the Providence Public Library, housed in an Italian Renaissance building erected in 1900 at a cost of $500,000. Straight ahead is Ex- change Place. From Providence, State Roads lead to Taunton and Plym- outh, Route 16; Fall River, New Bedford, and Buzzards Bay, Route 17; Newport, Route 18; and Woonsocket, Worcester, and Vermont, Route 19. R. 2 3. Providence to Boston. 45.0 m. Via PAWTUCKET, NORTH ATTLEBORO, WALPOLE, and DEDHAM. This route, following State Roads, marked in blue from the Massachusetts line, just outside Pawtucket, goes by way of North Attleboro, a prosperous jewelry town, and continues through farming country to Walpole and Norwood, a book- making town; thence through historic and residential Ded- ham, and by the parkways to Boston. An optional route leads through Mansfield and Sharon (p 202). The direct route from Providence to Pawtucket via North Main St. and Pawtucket Ave. is rendered disagreeable by the cobblestones, car tracks, and heavy traffic. The following, via the Blackstone Boulevard, is but little further and will be found much more attractive. From Exchange Place pass between the Federal Building and Central Fire Station, crossing Post Office Square, and con- 1 94 PROVIDENCE NORTH ATTLEBORO tinue directly ahead through Waterman St., going up the hill and passing Brown University on the right, to the intersec- tion of Butler Ave. Turn to the left on Butler Ave. and con- tinue past Blackstone Park into Blackstone Boulevard. Pass Butler Hospital grounds and the Swan Point Cemetery on the right, enter East Ave. and follow it over the long steep hill to Main St., in the center of Pawtucket. 4.5 PAWTUCKET. Pop 51,600 (1910), 55,335 (1915); one third foreign-born. Providence Co. Settled 1670. Indian name, "at the little falls." Mfg. thread, cotton and woolen goods, textile and other machinery, tennis rackets, paper, spools, soap, celluloid, and clocks; bleaching and dyeing. Pawtucket, a thriving city of diversified manufacturing in- terests, is on the Blackstone river, which below the falls here is known as the Pawtucket, or Seekonk. J. & P. Coats, Inc., thread plant is the largest concern in the city, employing about 2000 hands. The Lorraine Manufacturing Company, the Jenckes Spinning Company, the Royal Weaving Com- pany, the Hope Webbing Company, the United States Finish- ing Company, and the Goff braid mills are textile manu- facturers or dyers. Fales & Jenks and Potter & Johnston manufacture textile machinery. The Phillips Insulated Wire Company and the Slater mills are also large plants. The Narragansett Machine Company was the pioneer in this country in the manufacture of gymnasium apparatus. Under the Main Street stone bridge are the falls which gave the city its name. President Dwight said at the beginning of the last century: "Directly under the bridge commences a romantic fall which, extending obliquely down the river, fur- nishes a number of excellent mill-seats. Of this advantage the inhabitants have availed themselves. There is probably no spot in New England, of the same extent, in which the same quantity or variety of manufacturing business is carried on." The most interesting old landmark in Pawtucket is the stone Slater Mill where in 1793 Samuel Slater established the cotton industry of America. Slater Memorial Park, two miles east of Main Street bridge, is an attractive pleasure ground containing the historic Daggett mansion. Central Falls, ad- joining Pawtucket on the north and to all appearances a part of it, is a congested little city of 23,708 people, and Valley Falls with 5000 to 6000 more is just beyond. The first settler of Pawtucket is said to have been Joseph Jenks, an iron manufacturer. Six years later the little hamlet was the scene of an Indian raid in which Captain Pierce and his seventy men were killed. The town was set off from Rehoboth in 1812. Samuel Slater, "the father of cotton manufacture in America," came to Pawtucket in 1790, and with the help of David Wilkinson R. 2 3- PROVIDENCE TO BOSTON IQ5 and Sylvanus Brown constructed in the Slater Mill, still standing on the Blackstone, the first successful cotton-spinning machinery made in America. In 1814 John Thorpe, a Pawtucket mechanic, invented the power loom. Stephen Jenks made arms for the Continental troops during the Revolution and in 1811 took a contract from the govern- ment to make 10,000 muskets. President Madison at his second inauguration on March 4, 1813, wore a suit of woolen cloth made in a Pawtucket factory. It was the first time that a high public official had worn a suit of American-made goods, and the news was spread broadcast to boom Pawtucket industries. Continue down Main St. through the heart of the business section of Pawtucket. As we cross the bridge we have a good view of the falls and gain a striking impression of the industrial activity of the place from the huge mills which line both sides of the river. The sole fatality of Dorr's Rebellion of 1842 (p 187) occurred during a riot on the Main Street bridge. The Slater mill is conspicuous, upstream on the left. After crossing the bridge, fork left with trolley and follow Broadway across R.R. and Massachusetts State Line, where blue markers indicate the route to 12.S NORTH ATTLEBORO. Alt 195 ft. Pop (twp) 9562 (1910), 9398 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1640. Mfg. jewelry, paper boxes, and machinery. In the midst of a pleasant rolling country North Attleboro, in spite of its numerous factories, is a pleasant little town steadily planning for progress in attractiveness as well as in business. With Attleboro (p 202) it forms a part of the largest jewelry center of the United States, with over sixty firms engaged in this industry. The Richards Memorial Library is a cozy, ivy-covered building; the Oldtown Congregational Church, and the Bap- tist Church on the Common, are of the simple, dignified meet- ing house style. On Main St. diagonally opposite the old burial ground is the site of the Woodcock Garrison, where John Woodcock, the first white settler, built his home in 1669. About 1770 the Woodcock Garrison was purchased by Israel Hatch and kept open for many years as a public house. Here stopped Washington, President Monroe, and Lafayette. A signboard used on the Hatch House, and many family relics, are still carefully preserved. This is one of the oldest towns in the Commonwealth, having been settled in 1640, and was known originally as the Rehoboth North Purchase (1643), which included Attleboro and Cumberland and Pawtucket. The first Attleboro burial ground, where the earliest settlers were buried, and the region of the bloody Pierce's Fight in King Philip's War (1676) are both in North Attleboro. There are many Attleboros, due to the development of centers of population and industry around waterpowers. The old Foxboro poet and peddler Daddy Martin, narrating the growth of the town, recog- nized this feature: 196 NORTH ATTLEBORO NORWOOD "The shoddy mill is running still, South Attleboro is growing. A new house built, another will Ere long be upward going." Washington Street is the old Post Road which followed the course of the Indian trail. It has been the chief route of travel north and south from Massachusetts to Narragansett Bay for hundreds of years. When in 1802 the Turnpike was built, the curious rock formation of Red Rock Hill was uncovered. It attracted the attention of Pro- fessor Hitchcock of Amherst and finally led to the geological survey of the whole State. This was the first government survey of an entire State ever made. Following the blue markers through Plainville (14.0) the route turns right at the four corners into 19.0 WRENTHAM. Alt 240 ft. Pop (twp) 1743 (1910), 2414 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1673. Mfg. straw hats and tools. Wrentham is a quiet village with a lovely Green in the midst of a lake-studded region. The beautiful ponds in the vicinity were once the favorite resort of the Indians of Massa- soit and King Philip. The best known are King Philip's Pond and Wollomonapoag. For many years Helen Keller and Mr. and Mrs. John Macy (Miss Sullivan) have made their home here in a simple village house. Miss Keller, deaf and blind since babyhood, under the tutelage of her wonderful teacher, now Mrs. Macy, and further inspired by Mr. Macy, has become through her writ- ings and lectures a figure of national interest. Wrentham and the neighboring town of Franklin originated from an offshoot of the settlement at Dedham. An early settlement at Wol- lomonapoag was incorporated in 1673 and called Wrentham because some of the families came from the English town of that name. The industry of straw weaving was started here more than a century ago. In 1798 one Mrs. Naomi Whipple with characteristic New England enterprise unbraided some European hats and learned the secret of making straw braid. From this beginning Wrentham bonnets soon acquired a wide reputation, partly because they were exploited by the young ladies of Day's Academy, a 'female academy' here, which at this time had an extensive patronage. The route now passes through a hilly and rather fertile country, though much overgrown with underbrush. In the Pondville district we pass the large duck farm of the Weber brothers, extending for many acres on both sides of the road. There are often as many as 20,000 ducks here. 25.7 WALPOLE. Alt 177 ft. Pop (twp) 4892. Norfolk Co. Settled 1647. Mfg. leather, rubber goods, machinery, paper prod- ucts, and hospital supplies. The pretty tree-shaded village Green with a bandstand and fountain lies between the old Unitarian meeting house, on the left, and the Methodist, on the right, of later date. The R. 2 3. PROVIDENCE TO BOSTON 197 Public Library, given by Andrew Carnegie, F. W. Bird, and Mary Bird, is a handsome little building nearby. Settlers came to the neighborhood from Dedham in 1647, and for many years Walpole was a part of the older town. It was incorporated in 1724 and named in honor of Sir Robert Walpole, then at the height of his fame as a statesman in England. Note. At East Walpole, three miles east, is the plant of Bird & Son, important makers of the wellknown Neponset building papers, shingles, and roofing materials, established in 1795. The Bird family has always been prominent in the town and has done much to promote its welfare. Charles Sumner Bird, the present head of the firm, one of the leaders of the Progressive Party, has long been a prominent figure in the public life of the State. Other concerns at East Walpole are the American Glue Company, and Hollingsworth & Vose Company, manufacturers of paper. At the foot of the hill (28.5), just before entering Norwood, is Hawes Brook and an ancient mill pond. At the top of a rather steep hill, on the corner of Chestnut St., is the home of Herbert Plimpton, of the Plimpton Press. The view here, to the southeast, is bounded by the Sharon hills, five or six miles away. In the valley are the marshes of the Neponset river with the ink mills of Geo. Morrill & Co., one of a chain of plants from Boston to the Pacific Coast. Just beyond is Berwick Park, presented to the town by James Berwick. A club house and athletic grounds are es- pecially for the use of the employees of the Norwood Press, in which Mr. Berwick has a large interest. Opposite the park is Mr. Berwick's estate with some rich flower gardens and a long, low house with a French roof. Beyond Berwick Park, to the southeast, are the brick buildings of the Norwood Press, easily recognized by the clock tower. Just before reaching Main St. we pass the George Morrill Library. 300 NORWOOD. Alt 149 ft. Pop (twp) 8014 (1910), 10,977 (1915). Settled 1730. Mfg. ink, leather, iron products; book-making. Norwood has been for many years a book-making center. .Here are located the Norwood and the Plimpton Presses, two of the largest in the country, and the activities of the town are centered about these establishments. The Norwood Press, on Main St., makes a specialty of scientific and text books, using twelve tons of paper a day in the manufacture of 700,000 books a year, and employing over 600 people. The Plimpton Press, opposite the railway station, established by Herbert M. Plimpton of Norwood, also does complete book work of almost 198 NORWOOD DEDHAM every description. The other industries of the town, ink factories and tanneries, are related to book-making. The tannery of the Smith Company is one of the largest in the world. These industries call for a good deal of highly skilled labor, reflected in the generally prosperous aspect of the place and the number of well-to-do homes. Norwood has made a num- ber of striking innovations in town government and 'hires' a Town Manager to look after its affairs. He is required to be a technical engineer, and is the purchasing agent. A mile out of Norwood we reach a stretch of new road from which there is a splendid view of Purgatory Swamp, Ponka- pog, and the Blue Hills, with Great Blue Hill to the left. The new country home of Cameron Forbes, former Governor- general of the Philippines, has been recently built on the hill- side among the cedars and birches. 34.0 DEDHAM. Alt 119ft. Pop (twp) 9284 (1910), 11,043 (1915). County-seat of Norfolk Co. Settled 1636. Indian name Tist. Mfg. woolens, carpets, and pottery. Dedham is one of the pleasant residential and historic towns in Boston's vicinity. The beauty of the environs has attracted prominent Boston families ever since its "twenty-two proprie- tors from Watertown and Roxbury" took possession in 1636. Along High St., leading westward from Dedham Square through the center of the village, are most of the interesting buildings. On the corner of Church St. to the left, the low brick structure with arched portal is the home of the Dedham Historical Society, one of the oldest and best in the vicinity of Boston, with a large library and collection. A few rods to the west, and opposite, is the Dr. Nathaniel Ames house, built in 1772. Just off High St., in Ames St., is the site of the Woodward Tavern, where the Suffolk Convention of Sept. 6, 1774, was held. Three days later, the famous Suffolk Re- solves, partly drawn up here, were adopted at an adjourned meeting in the Vose house at Milton (R. 30). Ames Street leads across the river to the right. A most interesting landmark, the old 'Powder House,' stands on a high ledge, just back of the Boat House, across the Charles, close to the street. It was built by the town in 1766 "on a Great Rock in Aaron Fuller's Land." Here is the four-arch bridge; by the Pumping Station, further up, is the three-arch Cart Bridge, and almost in Needham, the one-arch bridge. At the Church Green on High St. is a tablet which marks the site of the first free public school to be maintained by general taxation of which there is a record, established by a vote in town meeting assembled, Jan. i, 1644-45. A stone nearby bears the following inscription: R. 2 3. PROVIDENCE TO BOSTON 199 "The Pillar of Liberty Erected by the Sons of Liberty in this Vicinity. Laus Deo Regi et Imunitatm Autoribusq, maxime Patrono Pitt, qui Rempub. rursum evulsit Faucibus Orci." This monument is the only one extant which was erected by that early patriotic association, the Sons of Liberty; the in- scription was incised July n or 12, 1766. A wooden bust, on a wooden column ten or twelve feet high, of the 'Great Com- moner,' Pitt, formerly surmounted this stone. On the Green stands the meeting house of the First Church. This is the third building, somewhat remodeled, on the site of the original edifice (1638). In this house all the civil and religious meetings of the town were held until the building of the first town house nearby in 1828. At this point, just beyond Ames St. on the right, is the handsome Samuel Haven house, built in 1795. The beautiful elms, brought from England, were set out by Judge Haven in 1789. Opposite these houses and the Church Green is the modern granite Court House, the second since Dedham became the shire town of the county (1793). The Registry Building opposite was completed in 1905 at a cost of $350,000. The Ames homestead, where Fisher Ames was born and died, formerly on this site, has been moved back to the banks of the Charles river and remodeled. It is now called Three Rivers and is the summer home of F. J. Stimson, 'J. S. of Dale,' ambassador to the Argentine Republic. On the right of High St., beyond the Orthodox Church, is the fine old Dexter house, built about 1762 by Samuel Dexter. This is one of the finest examples of Colonial archi- tecture in the vicinity of Boston, a third story has been added. General Washington spent the night of April 4, 1776, here on his way to New York after the evacuation of Boston. Continuing westward toward Needham we pass the pump- ing station, also the house where Arthur Foote, the composer, lived before moving to Brookline. A little to the left on Chestnut St. is the home of George Fred Williams, the 'Sage of Dedham,' the original Bryanite of Massachusetts, who recently achieved further distinction as the 'Albanian Byron' while Minister to Greece and Montenegro. On High St., west of Chestnut St., is the Dowse house, better known as the Quincy house from its occupancy by Edmund Quincy. It was built about 1800 by Edward Dowse, a Boston merchant who amassed a fortune in the China trade. James Russell Lowell, who often visited Quincy here, christened the place Bankside, and wrote: 200 DEDHAM "You are still lovely in your new-leaved green; The brimming river soothes his grassy shore, The bridge is there, the rock with lichens hoar, And the same shadows on the water lean, Outlasting us." Further on we pass the polo grounds at Karlstein, also some fine old houses. One across the Charles, occupied by the late Albert W. Nickerson, on Motley's Pond, is easily the finest and largest house in Dedham. It is nearly on the site of John Lothrop Motley's boyhood home. Village Avenue is a fine residential street. At Court and Church Sts. stood the house in which Horace Mann had his law offices (1828-35). In East Dedham, which lies to the northeast of the Square, a mile off the main route, is the site of the first mill built for the waterpower furnished by Mother Brook, produced by the pioneer canal of the continent (1639). This first instance of the utilization of waterpower in New England is worth con- sideration. East Brook flows through East Dedham into the Neponset river, which lies about sixty feet below the drainage basin of the Charles river at Dedham. The connection of the Charles river and East Brook by this canal furnished a head of power that has been profitably used ever since. The original mudsill at the entrance still remains. In all, be- tween Dedham and Hyde Park there are three mill privileges depending on the water of Mother Brook, as the canal is called. The Dedham Pottery, formerly the Chelsea Pottery, is a brick building back from High St., west of Boyden Square, East Dedham. It is operated by a son of the inventor, William A. Robertson. The process is a secret one, producing a rather heavy blue and white ware with a decided crackle, the only successful imitation of the old Chinese crackle ware. To the right of Dedham Square, at the junction of Eastern Ave. and East St., is the Fairbanks house, the oldest in Ded- ham, a part of which is said to have been built soon after Jonathan Fairbanks came to Dedham in 1637. Years ago an Indian arrow projected from the roof, and whence it came no one knows. One day it was pulled out in re-shingling and disappeared. By some this is thought to be the oldest frame homestead in America. It has ever since been in the family, except during 1896-1903, and is now its 'historic home.' On East St. is the famous Avery Oak, older than the town. The trunk of the huge tree is over sixteen feet in circumference. The builders of the frigate "Constitution" tried to buy this oak and offered seventy dollars, a very large sum for that time, but the owner would not sell. It is now the property of the Dedham Historical Society. R. 2 3- PROVIDENCE TO BOSTON Note. This eastward road, Route 21, goes to Ponkapog, a very beautiful lane through the woods of Green Lodge and arches of thickly set willows. Dedham dates from. September, 1635, the same day that Concord was incorporated. It was settled by twenty proprietors, who moved here from Watertown and Roxbury. They gave their new home the quaint name of Contentment, only to change it to that of the English town of Dedham, Essex, in 1636. THE FAIRBANKS HOUSE, 1636, THE OLDEST WOODEN HOUSE IN AMERICA Major Lusher, one of these pioneers, was a representative to the General Court, whose influence is summed up by a local bard: "When Lusher was in office, all things went well; But how they go since it shames us to tell." The first white man who fell in King Philip's War was shot in Ded- ham woods, though the village was never attacked. Fisher Ames, a statesman of the Revolution, was born here in 1758. The highway over which we have been traveling between Providence and Boston formed a part of the Post Road from Portsmouth, N.H., to the Virginias, over which the Dedham authorities claim that mail service was never suspended from May i, 1693, when the first letters were carried through, until the railroad took over the service. From Dedham the direct route to Boston follows Washington St. to Forest Hills (39.0), turning left under the Elevated and R.R. viaducts, and along the Arborway (R. 21), Jamaicaway, Riverway, and Fenway to Commonwealth Ave. and Copley or Park Squares. An alternate route, almost as direct, turns right from High St. on Ames St., crossing the Charles river, and continuing on Spring St. and Center St., to Jamaica Pond, where it joins Jamaicaway and the above route. 45.0 BOSTON (R. 20). 202 PAWTUCKET CANTON Note. From Pawtucket an alternative route leads via Cottage St. to Mansfield, Sharon, and Boston (53.5). This route is devious and the roads are not especially good. 12.0 ATTLEBORO. Alt 137 ft. Pop (twp) 16,215 (1910), 18,480 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1694. Mfg. jewelry, clocks, buttons, and cotton goods. The Attleboros, with Providence, constitute the largest jewelry center in the United States, the jewelry district of New Jersey and New York ranking second. The Attleboros have about one hundred jewelry factories and ten silversmith establishments, employing 5000 men. In 1905 the total fac- tory products were worth $5, 544, 285, more than half jewelry. Attleboro was named for the English Attleboro, whence some of the early settlers had come, and a small stream here is called Bungay after a river in the English town. The first manufacturer of jewelry was a Frenchman who had a small shop here late in the eighteenth century. In 1810 Colonel Obed Robinson made jewelry at Robinsonville, a suburb, and later this became the firm of Daniel Evans and Son, manufac- turers of gilt buttons, etc. About 1845 plated jewelry became im- portant, and this was the foundation of its present varied and artistic output of gold, silver, and enamel. At Mansfield (23.0), on Route 23, turn left at the Tavern and cross R.R., following trolley to Foxboro (26.5), and there turn right at the Green to 32.0 SHARON. Alt 234 ft. Pop (twp) 2310 (1910), 2468 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1637. Mfg. cutlery and trowels. Sharon is a quiet village in the pine woods on a hilly plateau. Its bracing air has made it popular as a health resort, and a summer residence for Boston and Providence business men. Lake Massapoag, a pretty pond, is at Sharon Heights. Cobb's Tavern on Bay St. is a hostelry of stage coach days, where Daniel Webster often stopped to relax. The road follows the trolley through the woodland to 35.8 CANTON. Alt 113 ft. Pop (twp) 4797 (1910), 5623 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1797. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods, jackets, patent leather, carriage cloth, stove polish, fire hose, fish lines, shovels, and iron goods. This pleasant manufacturing village is the older part of the town of Stoughton, divided in 1797, though strangely enough it then took a new name. Paul Revere, the hero of Lexing- ton, here set up the first copper rolling mill in the country (1801), and a foundry for casting bells, many of which still hang today in the old meeting houses. Beyond Canton the road passes through Ponkapog (38.8), joining Route 32, leading to BOSTON (53.5) by way of Great Blue Hill and Mattapan. R. 3. NEW YORK to BOSTON. 252.5 m. Via WATERBURY, HARTFORD, WILLIMANTIC, and WOONSOCKET. This route, though little used today as a direct route from New York to Boston, offers a pleasing variation and many attractions and interests. It is an historic route, known in Colonial times as the 'Middle Road,' and more recently as the 'Air Line,' because, except for minor variations, it follows the straightest route between the two terminal cities. It follows State Roads throughout, which in Connecticut and Massachu- setts are marked in red or blue (p 64). R. 3 1. New York to Hartford. 127.0 m. Via WHITE PLAINS, DANBURY, and WATERBURY. In New York State the route runs through the historic, region about White Plains, and the Kensico district, a country of gentlemen's estates now being transformed by gigantic reservoirs, extending into Connecticut. Thence the route passes through typical Connecticut industrial towns with in- tervening stretches of inter- esting rocky country. From the Connecticut State line, near Mill Plain, Conn., to Newtown, the route is indi- cated with red markers on poles and fences; thence by blue to Woodbury, with red from there to Milldale, with blue to Plain- ville and Farmington, and thence red to Hartford; or from Plainville with red via THE VAN CORTLANDT MANSION New Britain to Hartford. From the Plaza or Columbus Circle the route runs north- ward through Central Park and over the Grand Boulevard and Concourse. Routes i and 5 turn eastward, to the right, at Pel- ham Ave. (9.5); the latter route is alternative from this point to Hart's Corners (21.2). To the left is Jerome Reservoir on the site of the famous old race course. At the end of the Con- course (10.0) the route jogs left and right into Jerome Ave. across a long concrete viaduct over Mosholu Parkway which leads to the left to Van Cortlandt Park (1132 acres). Here is the old Van Cortlandt mansion (1748), which was Washing- ton's headquarters at one period of the Revolution. It is now a Revolutionary museum in charge of the Colonial Dames. Woodlawn Cemetery and the Empire City Race Track are (203) 204 NEW YORK BEDFORD on the right of Central Ave., on which the route leads northward through Hart's Corners (21.2). Near the cross- roads occurred one of the encounters, and an amusing one, that preceded the Battle of White Plains. General Spencer, with 2000 troops, had gone forth to check the enemy's ad- vance, and the meeting took place on the old York road. They greeted the oncoming Hessians with a full discharge of musketry, and punished them severely; but were so overcome with stage-fright at their successful attempt that they fled to the hills near Chatterton's. The episode was dubbed "the rout of the bashful New Englanders." From the end of Central Ave. the route turns right on Central Park Ave., crossing the Bronx River Parkway Reser- vation into Main St. 23. 5 WHITE PLAINS. Alt 201 ft. Pop 19,287 (1915). County- seat of Westchester Co. Settled 1683. Indian name Quar- ropas. White Plains, in the valley of the Bronx, is a beautiful resi- dential suburb of New York, with broad, elm-shaded streets and well-kept lawns. In the village are the Westchester County buildings, Muldoon's Hygienic Institute, and the Bloomingdale Hospital for the Insane (1821). Here also are the Century Country Club, the Knollwood Golf and Country Club, and the Westchester County Fair Association. Halfway between the main town and North White Plains stands a unique monument, the actual mortar used here in the battle, mounted upon a solid base bearing this inscription: "This mortar and this remnant of the Revolutionary entrenchments of October, 1776, mark the final stand by General Washington at the end of his long retreat; the abandonment by General Howe of his purpose to capture the American army, and the revival of the hopes for national independence." At North White Plains is the old Miller house, occupied by Washington as his headquarters before the Battle of White Plains and again in the summer of 1778. Near here is 'Mt. Misery' of old days, identified with the battle. Just to the north are the Kensico Hills and the great Kensico Reservoir. South of the town is the Gedney Farm Country Club, and nearby the Gedney Farm Hotel, an all-the-year-round hostelry with many attractions. The country is attractive, consisting of rolling wooded hills and meadow lands in the valleys of the Bronx and the Mamaroneck. Near the village are Silver, Kensico, and Rye lakes. The entire section along the Bronx river is being developed as part of the Bronx River Parkway. From Main St. the route leads north on Broadway, past Battle Hill Park, occupying the highest section of White Plains, overlooking Bronx Parkway. This was formerly known R. 3 I. NEW YORK TO HARTFORD 205 as Chatterton's Hill, and was the scene of the Revolutionary engagement. Just beyond White Plains is the 'millionaire district' of Purchase, where many beautiful homes are found, among them Ophir Farm of Hon. Whitelaw Reid, and the home of W. A. Read. There is a more modest but charming house which belonged to the late Charles Frohman, and has opened its hospitable doors to many a struggling actor. A garden club promotes the raising of wonderful flowers. Known to the Indians as Quarropas on account of the quantity of corn raised about here, the Dutch traders called it White Plains from the thickets of white balsam. Connecticut Puritans coming from Rye were the first settlers in 1683. The town was the scene of several im- portant events of the Revolution. In the summer of 1776 the Third Provincial Congress convened in the Court House. The site of this building on South Broadway is marked by a tablet in front of the Armory. In October of the same year Washington concentrated his army near White Plains after Lord Howe had landed at Throg's Neck. Washington's right wing was lined up on the Bronx river and he hastily threw up earthworks at Chatterton's Hill on the west bank. Howe attacked on October 28 with a force of 4000. In the ensuing conflict the Americans finally withdrew in good order, and the severe losses of the British prevented them from following. Washington retired to North Castle and fortified himself more securely. In 1779 a Continental force under Aaron Burr was encamped here for a time, and in 1781 a part of the forces of Lauzun and Rochambeau occupied the region during some months. The route bears right, passing (27.0) the Kensico Dam, and follows along the shore of the reservoir, crossing a long, high concrete bridge with a fine view of the reservoir and dam. The concrete road straight ahead (30.5) leads to Mt. Kisco. Bear right to 31.5 ARMONK. Alt 3fO ft. Pop 300. Westchester Co. Indian name, "fishing place." This is a quiet residential and farming region. The road bears right, then left, passing Byram Lake on the left, to 39.5 BEDFORD. Alt 280 ft. Pop (twp) 5629. Westchester Co. The residential colony of Bedford Hills lies to the west. Bedford is a part of the Torquams tract, bought from the Indians in 1640 by Captain Nathaniel Turner. The tract extended for about eight miles along Long Island Sound, and for sixteen miles into the then wilderness. On the outskirts of the village, in February, 1644, a force of English and Dutch troops commanded by Captain John Underbill, the redoubtable Indian fighter from New England, fell upon an Indian encampment and slaughtered some 500 of the savages, leaving their bodies lying in the snow. This massacre is believed to have occurred at the base of what is still called Indian Hill, about a half mile east of Bedford Court House. As late as 1765 mounds at the base of this hill were pointed out as the graves of the butchered red men. The first settlement here was established 206 BEDFORD DANBURY in 1680, the permission being granted by the town of Stamford (also within the Turner tract) to twenty-two men who bought from Katonah, Rockaway, and other Indian chiefs for 46 6d a tract of 7673 acres, which became known as 'Bedford Three Miles Square.' Nearly all of these pioneers were sons of founders of the Massachusetts Bay Colony. The route circles around the end of Cross River Reservoir into the village of Cross River (45.0). Note. A mile and a half beyond the village, an alternative route to Danbury turns to the right, through South Salem, with its ancient tavern, and Ridgefield (R. 6). A hard, winding road leads off from the highway to the left through the Titicus Reservation to the top of Titicus Mountain (969 ft) and the popular motor inn, the 'Port of Missing Men.' It commands a beautiful view over the surrounding country. Continue straight ahead past Waccabuc Lake on the right, through the Titicus Hills, a region of charming scenery, where the road attains a maximum of 620 feet. At Salem Center (51.0) is North Salem Academy (inc. 1790), one of the oldest schools in the State. A half mile to the west is the Titicus Reservoir, three miles long, one of the largest in the region. The road turns sharp right, following the Titicus valley to 52.5 NORTH SALEM. Alt 500 ft. Pop (twp) 1096 (1915). West- chester Co. The route turns to the left, passing Peach Lake on the left, to the East Branch Reservoir, where the route turns sharply to the right, joining the route from Brewster and Beacon along the valley of Still River, and crossing the Connecticut boundary. From this point the route follows the Connecticut Trunk Line State Highway, and is clearly marked by red bands on poles and fences. 60.0 MILL PLAIN, Conn. Alt 464 ft. Pop (Danbury twp) 23,502. f 'airfield Co. The route continues to follow the valley of the Still river, entering Lake Ave., which crosses a bridge into West St., con- tinuing to the City Hall, corner of Main, in 64.0 DANBURY. Alt 371 ft. Pop 20,234; about one fifth foreign- born. One of the county-seats of Fairfield Co. Settled 1684. Mfg. hats, hat-making machinery, metal novelties, electric light fixtures, iron making tools, ball and roller bearings, and laundry machinery. Danbury is the greatest center of the fur felt hat industry in the United States. About fifty factories are engaged in this industry, turning out a product valued at over $6,000,000, which is about 17 per cent of the total value of the city's manu- factures and about 16 per cent of the total value of all hats produced in the United States. The materials furs for the R. 3 I. NEW YORK TO HARTFORD 207 felt are largely imported, but fur cutting and the manufac- ture of machinery and accessories is carried on here. Metal novelties and lighting fixtures, manufactured by the Rogers Silver Plating Company, are other important products. The hat industry was begun here in 1780, and during the Revolution Zadoc Benedict, one of the pioneer hatters, turned out as many as three hats a day. From 1840 to 1850 silk hats were largely made here, but that branch has now been given up and the chief product is soft and stiff hats. The hat plants of the Von Gal Company, E. A. Mallory and Sons, and the Lee Hat Factory are among the largest and best equipped. The Loewe firm has been widely advertised because of the celebrated Danbury Hat Case, which has figured in the public prints for the past thirteen years. The industry calls for skilled labor, and is an unhealthy one because of the danger of mercurial poisoning and fetid steam atmosphere in which the employees work. Of recent years the hat manufacturers of Danbury have led in remedying these conditions, so that a great im- provement is noted in conditions affecting the health of em- ployees. It is one of the most completely unionized crafts. In 1902 the Loewe firm declared for an open shop. A strike began, was followed by a boycott, the firm suffered, and in successive courts was able to prove damages to the amount of $80,000. This has been carried from court to court until, in 1915, it was finally decided by the Supreme Court of the United States and a judgment of $300,000 brought against the 186 hatters who conspired, as a result of which their houses have been sold at auction to meet the judgment. Such has been the fate of the mad hatters of Danbury. The original settlers of Danbury came from Norwalk in 1684, and three years later it was named in honor of a town in Essex, England. In 1766 a large amount of supplies for the Continental Army were stored here. In April, 1777, Governor William Tryon of New York raided the town (p 81), and destroyed the supplies and much prop- erty. During his retreat he was attacked and defeated at Ridgefield by General David Wooster, who was killed in the conflict and succeeded by Benedict Arnold. A monument to Wooster was erected in Dan- bury in 1854. Enoch Crosby, a native of Danbury, is said to be the original of Harvey Birch, the hero of Cooper's "Spy" (p 70). This was also the home of James Montgomery Bailey (1841-94), the 'Danbury News Man,' whose humorous sketches published in the "News" made both him and his town justly famous. Note. A Trunk Line State Highway (R. 6), marked by blue bands, runs north from Norwalk to Litchfield and Tor- rington, entering Danbury from the south on Park Ave., and leaving northward on Main St. From the Danbury City Hall and Soldiers' Monument, turning left, the route follows Main St. past the Library on the 208 DANBURY WATERBURY left, and turns sharply to the right on White St., passing the State Normal School on the left. Bear right at fork of road after leaving trolley. The route as far as Newtown follows the State Road, marked by red bands on poles and posts. 73.5 NEWTOWN. Alt 396 ft. Pop 434. Fair field Co. Inc. 1711. Mfg. buttons, lace, and fire hose. At the Stone Church the route turns left under the R.R., downgrade through the hamlets of Sandy Hook (75.0) and Rocky Glen, crossing the Housatonic river (R. 9) at Bennetts Bridge, where an island divides the river. The Housatonic valley is here a narrow gorge, with an average width of about a mile, which has been worn through the hard resistant rock to a depth of 500 feet below the surrounding hilltops. From Newtown to Woodbury the route runs northward from Bridgeport and is marked by blue bands on poles and posts. The road leads over Georges River and follows the valley of the Pomperaug, parallel with the New England R.R. 81.S SOUTHBURY. Alt 200 ft. Pop (twp) 1233. New Haven Co. Inc. 1787. Mfg. steel traps, organ springs, tacks, and paper. The route continues to follow the blue markers up the valley with the ridge of East Hill (580 ft) to the west. 855 WOODBURY. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 1860. Litch field Co. Named 1674. Mfg. pocket knives, and shears. From Woodbury through Waterbury to Milldale, the State Highway, marked by red bands on poles and posts, is a portion of the east and the west Trunk Line, running westward from Middletown. The route follows the old Middlebury Road, running to the south of Quassapaug Pond to Middlebury (91.0), a quiet country village. Beyond the Green on the right is the Westover School, a fashionable school for girls. The route now turns right, to the east again, and follows the State Road, with red markers, along the Middlebury Road, crossing the Naugatuck and entering Main St. and crossing Route 7. 96.5 WATERBURY. Alt 260 ft (R.R.). Pop 73,141; one fourth foreign-born, mostly Irish, Italian, French Canadian, Russian, and French. New Haven Co. Settled 1677. Indian name Mattatuck. Mfg. brass, copper, german silver, wire, pins, clocks, and watches. Value of Product, $50,350,000; Pay- roll, $13,170,000. This is sometimes known as 'The Brass City,' for it is the center of the brass industries of Connecticut and perhaps the largest brass producer in the world. According to its aggres- sive and enterprising Chamber of Commerce, Waterbury has "Something on Everybody." By this they mean that on R. 3 I. NEW YORK TO HARTFORD 209 every person who wears clothing, some button, hook, eye, fastener, or other attachment is to be found, manufactured in this town. Up to the time that the war boom deranged statistics and resulted in a frantic expansion of industrial towns, Waterbury was the fourth city in population in the State, and the third in the value of its manufactures. Waterbury is a fine old city, beautifully situated in the heart of the Naugatuck valley, where it is joined by Mad River. In the center of the city is the beautiful Green, facing which is the Hotel Elton, whose progressive proprietor originated the "Ideal Tour" and made the Naugatuck valley one of the gateways of New England. Opposite is the Mattatuck His- torical Building, with collections illustrating the early history of Connecticut. Waterbury has a fine new City Hall of pleasing Georgian architecture with well-designed fountains and bas reliefs. Its railway station is marked by a tower re- producing the Torre del Mangia of Siena. Opposite the station is Library Park, iconoclastically created on the site of an old burying ground. Facing upon it is the Silas Bronson Library, munificently endowed by the New York business man of Waterbury origin whose name it bears. Here the Chamber of Commerce displays to passing travelers, in electric lights of red, white, and blue, its aggressive but justifiable slogan. A tract of land ten by eighteen miles was purchased from the Indi- ans for the sum of nine pounds by a group of men from Farmington. In 1708 the colony voted fifteen pounds to build two forts here and the town arranged for the expense of the construction of a third. Rocham- beau and his French forces remained in encampment here through a winter during the Revolution. The site of this encampment is now marked by a monument. The waterpowers of the Naugatuck and Mad rivers were early put to use. In 1680 Stephen Hopkins built a grist mill, which was oper- ated for 1 60 years on the site now occupied by the Scoville Mfg. Co. The most important early industry here was button making, established in 1850 by Joseph Hopkins. This led in 1802 to the making of brass buttons and the introduction of the brass industry. The town presented Lafayette on his visit here in 1824 with a set of gold buttons. During the Civil War most of the brass buttons used on Federal uniforms were here made. The variety of brass articles produced in the factories of Waterbury is almost endless. The cheap watch made Water- bury famous, and the New England Watch Company still turns out 600,000 watches yearly. The Ingersoll Watch Company, whose factories are also here, turns out an enormous number of watches. Copper coins for South American coun- tries and the blanks for United States nickels are here made. Waterbury can deal in many superlatives. It produces more brazed and seamless tubing than any other city, has the largest button industry and the largest clock factory 'in the world.' Both German silver and silver ware are manufactured here. 2 io WATERBURY FARMINGTON The International Silver Company is a successor of the original Rogers Bros. From the Green the route follows East Main St. south, and at Hamilton Park turns square left on the Meriden road. The route is clearly marked by red bands on poles and posts. Skirting the Waterbury Reservoir, which lies to the north, the road descends the long slopes of Southington Mountain, from the 700 to the 200 foot level, through the villages of Marion (103.5) an d Milldale (104.5). Here the State Road straight ahead, with red bands, leads to Middletown. The Hartford route turns square left, follow- ing blue bands on poles and posts to Plantsville (102.4) ar >d 108.5 SOUTHINGTON. Alt 149 ft. Pop 3714. Hartford Co. Settled 1697. Mfg. hardware, pocket cutlery, tinners' tools, wood screws, carriage hardware, rolled iron, wire, and paper bags. This typical industrial town on the Quinnipiac river, which supplies some of the waterpower, manufactures the greatest variety of hardware. The name is a contraction of South Farmington, of which it was originally a part. In 1724 it be- came an independent parish under the name of Panthorn. 113.5 PLAINVILLE. Alt 191 ft. Pop (twp) 2882. Hartford Co. Settled 1640. Mfg. knit underwear, saddlers' hardware, homes, watchmakers' tools, spun and cast brass goods. This is an outlying industrial village on the borders of Forestville and Bristol, to the west, between the Quinnipiac and the Pequabuck rivers. Note. At Plainville, the east and west State Highway, marked by red bands from Thomaston, runs east via New Britain to Hartford. From Plainville, this road ascends, pass- ing through a gap in the north and south trap ridge. To the north is Rattlesnake Mountain. 4.5 NEW BRITAIN. Alt 200 ft, R.R. Pop (twp) 43,916; one third foreign-born, Irish and Swedish. Hartford Co. Settled 1687. Mfg. hardware specialties, locks, cutlery, iron beds, metal furniture, cotton and woolen underwear, and hosiery. New Britain is the center of the hardware manufacturing of New England, and is sometimes called the 'Hardware City.' It has had a rapid growth in the last two decades, due to the prosperity of its industries. It was one of the first cities in the country to build a municipal subway for electric light, tele- phone, and telegraph wires. A State Normal School was early established, largely through the efforts of Henry Barnard. New Britain is the home of the Corbin Locks; the plant employs 6000 hands. Landers, Frary & Clark have manu- factured cutlery here for half a century. R. 3 I. NEW YORK TO HARTFORD Though early settled, this territory, originally a part of Farmington, was made part of Berlin, and not incorporated as a separate town until 1850. There are a few old houses antedating the Revolution, notably the Hart house on Kensington St. and the Nathan Booth house on Arch St. The pioneer of New Britain's industry was James North, who made brass buckles, andirons, etc. His five sons each entered into different trades. One made bells and clocks, peddling his products from his saddle bags. Elihu Burritt, 'the learned blacksmith,' is perhaps the most distinguished product of New Britain. Born herein 1811, at the age of sixteen he was apprenticed to a blacksmith, and while practicing his trade mastered Greek and Hebrew by evening studies, and at the age of thirty he could read nearly fifty languages. In 1837 he removed to Worcester, took to lecturing, became an ardent advocate of universal peace, and traveled extensively in America and Europe. He died at New Britain in 1879. From New Britain the route continues to follow the State Highway, marked by red bands, entering Hartford (15.0) by New Britain Ave. and Washington St. From Plainville the main route continues to follow the blue banded posts and poles along the valley of the Pequabuck river, skirting Rattlesnake Mountain (700 ft), on the right. 118.0 FARMINGTON. Alt 245 ft. Pop 897, (twp) 3748 Hartford Co. Settled 1640. Mfg. cutlery, rules, levels, and paper. Farmington is a beautiful old town with wide elm-lined streets and some fine old houses which give evidence of the former importance and wealth of the place. The Thomas Cowles house was designed by a young officer of Burgoyne's army while he was held a prisoner here. On top of the hill is the munificent estate of the late A. A. Pope, the house being the best and purest evolution of the Mt. Vernon type, with an extensive formal garden. At the entrance is an "Odds and Ends Shop," established by Miss Theodate Pope for charity. At the south end of Main St. is the Lodge, owned by the pupils, past and present, of Miss Porter's School, and maintained for the benefit of working girls who come here throughout the year, although chiefly for the summer months. Farmington was on one of the chief Colonial highways between New York and Boston. The inhabitants were prosperous, for in addition to agricultural pursuits they owned vessels engaged in East Indian trade. The first settlers named the village from the English town. They were attracted here by the fertility of the meadows, although it was already inhabited by the Tunxis Indians, who had given their name to the river, Tunxis, meaning "crane." The settlers got on fairly peaceably with the Indians. In 1657, however, John Hartford and all his family were burnt to death in his house, which had been fired by the Indians. As a penalty for this the Indians were required to pay eighty fathoms of wampum a year for seven years. Farmington was the home of Governor John Treadwell, who was prominent in public life during the Revolutionary period and in the administrative affairs of Yale during that time. It was the home, FA RMINGTON MANCHESTER CENTER too, of the Porters. Noah Porter, President of Yale, and Samuel Porter, who spent much time and thought on the earlier editions of Webster's Unabridged Dictionary, were brothers of Miss Sarah Porter, whose school has made Farmington famous. Miss Porter opened her school for girls in 1844, and "in its long history it has probably exerted a greater influence on American womanhood than any other educa- tional institution except perhaps Mt. Holyoke under Miss Lyon." Farmington overlooks the broad and fertile valley of Farmington River, which is here joined by the Pequabuck. The rich alluvial soils of this valley a little further on are largely given over to the production of wrapper tobacco. From Farmington the route turns right, following the red markers on Farmington Ave., which ascends the hills to West Hartford (123.0). This community is chiefly occupied in tobacco farming, market gardening, and the growing of flowers under glass. Brick and bent pipe are also manufactured here, and a large quantity of ice is annually stored for the outside market. Noah Webster was born here in 1758. His fame largely rests on his Dictionary, but he was a potent force in the life of the young repub- lic during its formative years. He left Yale in his Junior year to join the Revolutionary army. Later he studied the law, but elected to teach school, and devised his famous spelling book and grammar, published at Hartford, which marked a great advance in school text- books. In that bitter campaign, waged so fiercely against the second election of Washington, he espoused his cause, and the_ result was in no small measure due to the speeches he made in stumping the country. A pamphlet he wrote in 1784 was the first definite proposal for a constitution to take the place of the "Articles of Confederation." The following year he made the first advocacy for copyright laws. His love of precision in the use of words was well displayed when his wife, to her horror, discovered him kissing a pretty kitchen maid; to his wife's cry of "Noah, I am surprised!" the lexicographer immedi- ately corrected, "No, my dear, you are astonished; I am surprised." The route continues on Farmington Ave. into Hartford, passing on the right the State Capitol and then along Asylum St. to the City Hall. Route 8 enters from the left. 127.0 HARTFORD (R. 1, p 111). R. 3 2. Hartford to Boston. 125.5 m. Via WILLIMANTIC, PUTNAM, WOONSOCKET, and FRAMINGHAM or DOVER. STATE ROAD throughout. This route, the Middle Road of Colonial times, traverses the eastern Connecticut highland through the industrial districts of Manchester, the home of Cheney Silks, and Willimantic, the thread city. Thence it passes through the northwestern part of Connecticut, hilly land sparsely settled. From the north- western portion of Rhode Island with its mill centers we may turn east to Providence (85.0), or continue over an interest- ing route through southern Massachusetts direct to Boston. R. 3 2. HARTFORD TO BOSTON 213 The route leaves Hartford (R. i) by the magnificent new stone bridge over the Connecticut and passes through East Hartford. From East Hartford turn right from the route to Springfield with branch trolley, following the Connecticut Trunk Line State Road, marked with red bands on poles and posts, eastward along Burnside Ave. through Burnside (4.0). This little manufacturing hamlet lies just to the south of the State Road on the Hockanum river, which fur- nishes waterpower for the paper industry that has here flour- ished since Revolutionary times. Note. The State Road branching off to the left (6.5) leads north through Tolland and Stafford Springs (R. 1 1) to Worcester. Halfway between Hartford and Manchester we pass Laurel Park, the prettiest spot in the Hockanum valley. This is a region of natural picturesqueness, with ravines and cliffs. In this region, near Manchester, was found in 1884 a considerable part of the skeleton of a dinosaur, and a few years later, in the same locality, a complete skeleton of another species, so perfect as to afford the Yale paleontologist, Professor Marsh, satisfactory data for a com- plete restoration of the animal. The remains of still a third species of dinosaur have been found in this vicinity. 8.8 MANCHESTER CENTER. Alt 170 ft. Pop (twp) 13,641. Hartford Co. Settled 1672. Mfg. silk, woolens, paper, soap, and needles. A mile to the north is the village of Manchester. The township has four centers of population, the largest community in the State operating under a town government, but its charter gives it most of the powers exercised by cities. SOUTH MANCHESTER lies a mile and a half to the south of Manchester Center and the State Road. Here are located the great silk mills of the firm of Cheney Brothers, which employ 4500 people. The first settlement was made in 1672 near Hop Brook, as a part of Hartford. The settlement at the Green was first called Five Miles, and later, Orford Parish. The exclusive privilege of making glass in the Connecticut colony was granted to the Pitkins here. The pic- turesque ruins of their glassworks may still be seen. Timothy Cheney, one of the first of the family, was a maker of wooden clocks, to whom John Fitch (p 119) was apprenticed to learn the clock-making trade. Though Cheney made reliable clocks Fitch thought he treated him unfairly. Mulberry trees were first planted and silkworm culture instituted in Connecticut in 1732, both at Mansfield and at Cheshire. President Stiles of Yale was much interested in silk culture, and his Commence- ment gown in 1789 was Connecticut grown and manufactured. The Legislature encouraged silk production by offering a bounty on the raising of mulberry trees and raw silk. Half an ounce of mulberry seed was distributed to each parish. In 1785 the Connecticut Silk Society was incorporated in New Haven to encourage silk culture and manufacture. Mansfield, to the north of Willimantic, became 214 MANCHESTER CENTER POMFRET the center of the industry, and in 1793 her inhabitants received a bounty on 265 pounds of raw silk. In 1829 a silk company built a factory at Mansfield to produce sewing silk. In 1836 Frank and Ralph Cheney, descendants of Timothy Cheney, laid the foundation of the largest silk industry in the State at South Manchester, beginning to manufacture silk thread from imported raw material. There are forty-seven silk manufactories in the State, with a total production of $21,000,000 in 1909. The Bon Ami Company, manufacturers of the soap which, like a newly hatched chick, "hasn't scratched yet," have their factory here. There are also paper mills, woolen mills, a needle factory, and a knitting factory. The Alcott grass garden, in which individual grasses from all parts of the world are grown, was the property of Frederick W. Taylor, of scientific management fame. The State Road continues straight through Manchester Green (10.0). Highland Park, two miles east of Manchester, is a beautiful bit of country. The Bolton Hills (590 ft) about here make this one of the most charming regions of New England. Note. The left fork, with red markers, is an alternate route via Coventry to Willimantic; it is of about equal length but less attractive. The main route forks right, and is marked with red bands, through the romantic Bolton Notch (13.0), descending a steep grade. The town of Bolton lies a mile or so south. 18.5 ANDOVER. Alt 320 ft. Pop (twp) 371 (1910). Tolland Co. Inc. 1848. The Town Hall is on the right. The fine new State High- way of macadam pavement continues through a sparsely settled region eastward to 29.0 WILLIMANTIC. Alt 247 ft. Pop 12,206 (1910); one fourth foreign-born. Windham Co. Settled 1822. Indian name, "good lookout," or "good cedar swamp." Mfg. spool cotton, silk twist, silk and cotton fabrics, velvet, and silk machinery. Willimantic is a thriving manufacturing town at the head- waters of the Shetucket river, formed here by the joining of the Willimantic and the Natchaug. It is one of the chief thread- making centers of the country. Willimantic is the geographic center of eastern Connecticut and the distributing center for the farming region which surrounds it. Manufacturing is car- ried on in the outlying villages, South Coventry, Chaffee- ville, North Windham, etc. The annual factory product is valued at over $5,000,000. There are extensive granite quar- ries in the vicinity, and most of the large mills are built of this local material. The Willimantic river falls a hundred feet in a mile, forming one of the most valuable waterpowers in eastern Connecticut. R. 3 2. HARTFORD TO BOSTON 215 Here is the principal plant of the American Thread Company, which employs 2500 persons. Here also are the large plants of the Quidnick-Windham Manufacturing Company, makers of prints and twills. The silk industry is important, including the Holland Mills (silk thread), the Windham Silk Company (dress goods), the Chaffee Company, and the A. G. Turner Silk-Throwing Mill. The Vanderman Foundries and the Willi- mantic Machine Company build silk machinery. Windham Center, three miles east, was an important and prosperous town during the Colonial period and still has some fine old houses. The legend of the Frogs of Windham has been related by a local poet in a batrachian epic of thirty stanzas, telling of a battle between hordes of migrating frogs. The hill country of northeastern Connecticut and adjacent Rhode Island presents points of sociological interest. A prosperous region in Colonial days, it has gone backward and the inhabitants have retrograded rather than advanced. This has remained a sort of 'backwater' of New England civiliza- tion, where the standards of living have been very low. It is averred that in some neighborhoods food for the entire week is cooked at one time and eaten thereafter as appetite inclines. Recent improvements in education, agriculture, better roads, etc., have done much to change these conditions. Route n, from Norwich to Stafford Springs and Worcester, crosses the route here. Leaving Willimantic we cross the Natchaug river by an iron bridge. The State Highway traverses a sparsely inhabited region to North Windham (34.0), a mere hamlet, and follows the valley of the Natchaug, crossing the river before entering the village of Chaplin (37.0). The route continues to Phcenix- ville (43.0), where it leaves the Natchaug valley and turns east through Abington (48.0) to 51.0 POMFRET. Alt 389 ft. Pop (twp) 1857 (1910). Windham Co. Settled 1687. Pomfret is a pleasant old country town with fine old houses and churches surrounded by rolling hills, famous for its mem- ories of Israel Putnam. The Ben Grosvenor Inn (1765) faces the Green. Opposite is the Pomfret School, for boys, founded in 1894. Pomfret has become increasingly popular as a sum- mer resort on account of its fine situation. There are some attractive country places in the vicinity. Rathlin, the exten- sive estate of George Lothrop Bradley of Washington, D.C., overlooks the Brooklyn and Abington valleys. Courtlands, the home of Mrs. Courtland Hoppin, and Elsinore, that of Mrs. Randolph M. Clark, can be seen across the picturesque Para- dise valley; while Marcus M. Kimball of Boston and the 216 POMFRET WOONSOCKET Perkins brothers of New York have attractive places further to the east. The Thomas S. Harrison place on the main street is one of the original homesteads modernized. The early settlers came from Roxbury, and the place attained con- siderable importance in Colonial times. It was an important stopping place on the Middle Road. One of the old inns is still standing with very little change, and is now the home of Dr. S. B. Overlock, at the four corners. After the Revolution the town sank into quiet and par- tial obscurity. About 1875 the sleepy little village was brought into notice by some Providence people, and through the efforts of Dr. Alexander H. Vinton and the Hoppin family it has been transformed into a wide-awake residential resort. The countless ridges and hills overlooking the pleasant valley of the winding Quinebaug afford ideal sites for estates. General Israel Putnam lived and was buried at Brooklyn, some miles to the south. On the failing of his finances, his former residence was turned into an inn in 1767. At the side of the house today is a great bronze equestrian statue of the General. On the road between Brooklyn and Pomfret, on a craggy, precipi- tous hill with a tangled forest, is the historic Wolf's Den. One morning seventy sheep and goats were reported killed. Putnam had a bloodhound of great strength, and with five neighbors he agreed to watch until the wolf was killed. It was in the winter of 1742-43, when a light snowfall enabled them to track the wolf to his den, that his famous exploit occurred. A day was spent in fruitless endeavor to persuade the beast to come out, but finally Putnam threw off his coat and waistcoat, and with a rope around his body and a gun in his hand he was lowered into the cave until he saw the glaring eyeballs. He shot the wolf and was pulled out with it. The road from Pomfret north to Woodstock, a beautifully situated village in a mountainous country, is a fine New England elm-shaded street preserving the Colonial flavor. 56.5 PUTNAM. Pop 6637 (1910); one third foreign-born. Wind- ham Co. Inc. 1855. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods, steam heaters, and castings. This is a manufacturing village, utilizing the fine water- power of the Quinebaug and Mill rivers, and named for General Putnam. Route 12, from New London to Worcester, passes through the city. From Putnam the route follows gravel and macadam roads, with red markers, through a sparsely inhabited country. About three miles from Putnam we cross the State line into Rhode Island, where the color markers cease, and pass through the hamlet of West Gloucester, skirting Bowdish Reservoir, to 70.0 CHEPACHET. Alt 395ft. Pop (Gloucester twp) 1491 (1915). Providence Co. Inc. 1731 From here the straight road continues to Providence (85.0). The road to Woonsocket turns to the left, following a good State Road. At Mapleville (71.5), bear left, and at fork, right, crossing R.R., through the hamlet of Oakland. South of the village of Glendale, which we avoid, we cross a wood bridge R. 3 2. HARTFORD TO BOSTON to Nasonville (74.5). The route now follows the trolley, skirting a series of lakes through Slatersville (76.8), entering, via Main St., the city of 81. S WOONSOCKET. Alt 162 ft. Pop 38,350 (1910), 40,075 (1915); three fifths foreign extraction. Providence Co. Settled 1666. Mfg. cotton, woolens, yarn, rubber shoes, and ma- chinery. Value of Product, $28,218,000; Payroll, $5,675,000. Woonsocket, situated at the most valuable waterpower on the Blackstone river, is a thriving industrial center which has long been famed for the manufacture of worsteds, rubber goods, etc. The Woonsocket of the present day is, however, a French city. Over 60 p?r cent of the population is French Canadian, employed in the numerous mills. They almost control the politics, and one of Woonsocket's French citizens has been Governor of the State. The industrial development has been largely modern, al- though jnills existed from early times at the falls of the Black- stone. There are over thirty-five large manufacturing plants here besides many smaller concerns. The cotton and woolen mills have a wide reputation, and it is one of the largest centers for the manufacture of woolen and worsted yarns by the French, Belgian, and Bradford processes. It is the home of American Harris tweeds. The rubber mills and wringer works are among the largest in the country. Additional water- power is obtained from the tributaries of the Blackstone, the Mill and Peters rivers. Probably the most striking buildings of Woonsocket are the Catholic Churches. The Harris Institute was given to the city by the wellknown manufacturer of the worsteds which bear his name. It contains a large hall and a library. Woonsocket Hill (588 ft) is one of the highest in the State and commands a fine view of the busy valley. The Blackstone river is the best developed waterpower in the country (see R. 19, Intro.). It is named for William Blackstone, the first settler on the site of Boston, who retired to this part of Rhode Island in 1634 (see Lonsdale, R. 19). Two miles northwest of Woonsocket is the busy little town of Blackstone (settled 1700) with important cotton, woolen, and rubber mills. Further up the river are Millville, part of the town of Blackstone, with its rubber boot plant; the textile village of Uxbridge; Whitinsville with its famous cotton ma- chinery plant established by the Whitin family; Northbridge, Millbury, and other manufacturing centers. In the days be- fore the railroads the Blackstone Canal furnished transporta- tion through this valley, connecting \Vorcester and Providence. The Indians applied the name 'Woonsocket' to the hill and the falls here. The first white settler was Richard Arnold of Providence, who 218 WOONSOCKET MILFORD arrived in 1666 and built a saw mill on the bank of the Blackstone. It became largely a settlement of Quakers, who dwelt to the south and west of the present city, and some of the old meeting houses remain to- day. South of the city is a large quartz hill which contains iron of the purest type, but the extreme hardness of the deposit has prevented its usefulness on account of the absence of a satisfactory flux in this part of the world. From Monument Square, Route 19 leads to Worcester via Blackstone St., to the left. The Boston route follows Social St., in two miles crossing the State Line into Massachusetts, leading by a recently con- structed State Highway to 88.0 BELLINGHAM. Alt 240 ft. Pop (twp) 1696 (1910), 1953 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1719. Mfg. woolens. Bellingham lies on the height of land from which the waters turn northward into the Charles river and southward into the Blackstone. The town derives its name from the Earl of Bellingham, to whom the land was granted when governor of the colony by Charles II. He gave his own name to the town, and that of his benefactor to the river flowing northward. Note. From the Bellingham Town Hall a State Road leads to the right through Franklin to Wrentham (9.0), where it joins Route 2, from Providence to Boston. The distance to Boston by this route is 35.0 m. from Bellingham. 4.8 FRANKLIN. Alt 301 ft. Pop (twp) 5641 (1910), 6440 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1778. Mfg. shoddy, woolens, felt, pianos, and straw hats. Franklin is a busy town of diversified manufactures in the midst of a farming country. The manufacture of straw hats was long the most characteristic industry of the place, as both Franklin and Wrentham were early centers in this line. On the left toward the Common is the Ray Memorial Library, given to the town by the daughters of Joseph Gordon Ray as a memorial to their father. Architecturally this is one of the most significant library buildings in New England on account of the consistency with which the Greek ideal has been carried out. It was designed by H. H. Gallison of Boston. The fine frescoes of the interior, representing Greek scenes, are by Tommaso Juglaris, an Italian. The books presented to the town by Franklin are now preserved here. Opposite are the buildings of Dean Academy, a coeducational school founded and endowed in 1865 by Dr. Oliver Dean, a citizen of the town who made a fortune in the Amoskeag Manufacturing Com- pany at Manchester, N.H. The town was originally a part of Wrentham, and its early history is connected with that place. A battle with the Indians took place here in 1676. In 1778 the town was separated from Wrentham and R. 3 2. HARTFORD TO BOSTON 219 i named in honor of Benjamin Franklin. A hint was conveyed to Franklin, at that time in Paris, that the gift of a church bell would be very acceptable. Franklin sent a gift of 125 books, observing that the people were probably "more fond of sense than sound." Between Franklin and Wrentham lies a rolling farming country. The old Colonial homestead in Mann's Plain where Horace Mann was born in 1796 is still standing, but it is large- ly spoiled by the 'renovations' of a quarter of a century ago. Passing along the shores of Wollomonapoag and King Philip's Ponds, now cheapened by the names of Lake Pearl and Lake Archer, the route enters Wrentham (9.0), joining Route 2 (p 196), to Boston, 35.0 m. From the Bellingham Town Hall, turning left with the trolley on macadam road, the route leads to South Milford (90.3). At the four corners continue straight through, and half a mile beyond bear right with trolley to 93.0 MILFORD. Alt 266 ft. Pop (twp) 13,055 (1910), 13,642 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1667. Indian name Quinshipaug. Mfg. shoes, straw and rubber goods, machinery; granite. Milford, the first of the 'shoe towns' of Massachusetts to be reached in coming from the south, is a thriving community with several important industries. The shoe industry was begun here in 1795 by Arial Bragg. Milford pink granite is a fine-grained granite, beautiful in color and texture, for building purposes. It has been quarried here for nearly a century. Two firms are chiefly engaged in the work, Norcross Bros, and the Massachusetts Pink Granite Company. Many buildings in the town are constructed of it, including Memorial Hall, St. Mary's Church, the High School, the Universalist Church, and the new Post Office, a federal building erected in 1913-14. A conspicuous shaft erected in St. Mary's Cemetery by Father Cuddihy as a replica of a famous Irish round tower, is constructed of Milford granite, as is also the Perry Memorial recently erected at Put-in-Bay, Lake Erie. The quarries and mills have brought to Milford a large foreign population, mainly Italian, but including many other nationalities. Note. Route 24, following East Main St. through Medway and Dover, leads to Boston (125.5). Westward it leads to Hopedale and Grafton. From Main and Exchange Sts., Milford, the route keeps to the right with the trolley. A mile from the town, where the trolleys fork, bear to the left, following macadam State High- way into Washington St., which passes through the village of Metcalf, the home of Kate Sanborn, the writer and lecturer. MILFORD FRAMINGHAM Half a mile beyond, from Phipps Hill, we see to the right Lake Wennakeening, "a pleasant smile." To the left of the road is the great Pittsfield Poultry Company's plant. Further on, on the right on Highland St., are the Winthrop Nurseries, maintained by Miss Mary E. Cutler, a lecturer and authority on farming. Adjoining is the Wennakeening Farm, which has been in the Cutler family since the early settlement. On the left of Washington St. is the Linda Vista farm, the mag- nificent estate of L. E. P. Smith, New England manager of the Metropolitan Life Insurance Company. 99.5 HOLLISTON. Alt 200 ft. Pop (twp) 2711 (1910), 2788 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1724. Mfg. woolen goods, copper pumps, shoes, army blankets, and wax paper; dairy products, nursery stock. Holliston is a prosperous residential country town with some diversity of manufacturing interests, mostly on a small scale. Originally part of Sherborn, it was incorporated in 1724 and named after Thomas Hollis, the donor of Hollis Hall, Harvard College. Washington Street is the main thoroughfare, with rows of especially fine trees and a number of handsome residences. There are several good examples of those classic porticoes so much in favor at the beginning of the last century. At East Holliston the road leaves Washington St. and follows Concord St. with the trolley past the Travis Farm, the ancient house of which was the scene of the first town meeting in 1724. Along the road many of the eighteenth century farmhouses, white with green blinds, have the dates of erections above their doorways. Concord Street passes the extensive plant of the Boston Ice Company, coming into Irving Square, joining Route 24, which leads to Boston (125.5), at 105.0 FRAMINGHAM (R. 24). (221) R. 4. NEW YORK to ALBANY. 147.5 m. Via the EAST BANK of the HUDSON. This route follows the course of the Hudson river valley along the eastern side of the Hudson river, but keeps the river in view for only short distances. It is a hilly, almost moun- tainous region through which the gorge of the Hudson makes its way, a land rich in the romance of its history, which has long been a residential region for the wealthy of New York. It follows in general the course of the old Albany Post Road. As was customary in the history of roads, the old Albany Post Road began its life as an Indian trail, winding along near the Hudson river and making a more or less indirect course to Albany. Gradually, as it came to be used by the white people, its line was straightened, it was widened for the use of wagons, and it passed from a path into a genuine road. In 1703 an act was passed by the Colonial assembly for "Regulateing Clearing and preserving Publick Comon highways thro'out this Colony," including one to "Extend from Kings Bridge in the County of Westchester through the same County of West- chester, Dutchess County, and the County of Albany." When Frederick Philipse, the 'Dutch millionaire' as he was called, built the bridge over Spuyten Duyvil Creek, he became, as manor lord, responsible for the maintenance of the road which led to the bridge, the Albany Post Road. About 1806 the Highland Turnpike Company got control of the road, improved and straightened it, put up toll gates, and it entered upon what may be called its professional life, being brought into fairly permanent shape and much as we now know it. For years thereafter it was known to many as the Highland Turnpike. The route appropriately belongs in a book on New England because from it branch off to the east at various points a num- ber of good State Roads which offer several pleasing entrances to New England, the following of which are briefly described: Tarry town to Port Chester; connecting with Route 5, to the Berkshires, Route 3, to Danbury and Hartford, and Route i, to Bridgeport and New Haven. Beacon to Pawling via Fishkill. Poughkeepsie to Amenia and the Berkshires. Rhinecliff to Lakeville, Conn. Hudson to South Egremont and the Berkshires. R. 4 1. New York to Poughkeepsie. 73.5 m. Via YONKERS and FISHKILL. This section of the route follows Riverside Drive and North Broadway, commanding beautiful views of the Hudson and the Berkshires. Beyond Peekskill it follows the new State Road through the hills, away from the river. From the Plaza or Columbus Circle, the winding drives of Central Park are followed keeping left of the Mall and the (222) R. 4 I. NEW YORK TO POUGHKEEPSIE 223 Webster statue and emerging into y2nd St., which is followed into Riverside Drive, past the Soldiers' Monument and Grant's Tomb, and across the Viaduct into Broadway, which leads across the Ship Canal. The United States Ship Canal was the work of the U.S. Govern- ment, which planned its construction and undertook the great task of putting it through to completion. Before the year 1817 there were two small brooks running where now the line of the center of the bridge's swing span is, and these streams were developed by Curtis and John Bolton into a canal, beside which they established their quarries and marble mill. This little canal was the seed from which the later canal on so much larger a scale sprang. The original swing span was single, and not until igo6 was this replaced by the double deck swing span which is now in use. Cross Spuyten Duyvil Creek. Irving tells us in his Knick- erbocker History of the legend of the Dutch trumpeter, Anthony van Corlear, who swore he would swim across it "en spijt den duyvile," but drowned in the attempt. During the Revolution this was the southern boundary of the "neutral ground" (p 71). Forts Washington and Lee were the twin guardians of the Hudson river at the time of the Revolution. The former, on the east shore, stood at about iSist St., the latter on the Jersey shore directly oppo- site. Washington was in the habit of crossing between them at what is now Fort Washington Point. A public ferry, called Burdette's, operated by Peter Burdette of Fort Lee, was also a means of crossing, and the descendants of Burdette are still living in the town of Fort Lee. It was in 1776 that the two forts figured prominently in United States history. In November, soon after the battle of White Plains, Howe opened his attack upon Fort Washington and summoned Colonel Magaw to surrender. The American officer thereupon made his famous reply, "Actuated by the most glorious cause that mankind ever fought in, I am determined to defend this post to the very last extremity." Although Howe persisted, the British losses were five to one when they finally took the fort and its entire troops on November 16, sending them to the Sugar House and other dreadful prisons in New York City. Washington with his general officers stood weeping on the opposite shore while he saw the fortress fall. The abandon- ment of Fort Lee was now inevitable, and one of the most tragic hours of the whole war followed. Camp kettles were left on the fires, over four hundred tents left standing, and provisions enough to last 3000 men for three months were abandoned. What little baggage could be taken in wagons was hauled off while the American troops marched hurriedly back to Hackensack, barefooted, ragged, exposed to the cold November rain. The retreat left Fort Lee open to Cornwallis, who came down the west shore, and both forts were now British possessions. The route passes through Riverdale, which lies on a rocky plateau high up above the Hudson. Here is the Riverdale Country School for Boys. The Palisades on the opposite bank of the Hudson are here at their best. They extend for about fifteen miles with a height of 200 to 500 feet, and consist of a basaltic rock with a columnar formation. This trap rock was intruded as molten lava into the Triassic sandstones and developed prismatic jointing on cooling. 224 NEW YORK DOBBS FERRY A mile and a half before arriving at Yonkers the route passes Mount St. Vincent, a convent which is the American head- quarters of the Sisters of Charity. The buildings include Forthill, formerly the home of the famous actor Edwin Forrest. 13.0 YONKERS. Alt 10 ft, R.R. Pop 93,383 (1910), 90,948 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled 1646. Mfg. carpets, hats, ma- chine products, rubber goods, electrical supplies, elevators, electric motors, and sugar. Value of Product, $33,548,000. Yonkers is both a manufacturing center and a rapidly grow- ing residential suburb of New York. There are two chief resi- dential sections. The one to the north includes Amackassin Heights and Glenwood. Here is the old Colgate mansion and Greystone, on North Broadway, now the residence of Samuel Untermeyer, but formerly the home of Samuel J. Tilden, the New York politician who made such a stirring campaign for the Presidency. The other residential region lies to the south and includes Ludlow, Cortlandt Terrace, and Park Hill ad- joining Riverdale. St. Joseph's Theological Seminary (R.C., 1896) and the Halsted School for Girls, founded in 1874, are located here. Two blocks west of Getty Square is the historic Philipse Manor House (1642). The mansion was enlarged to its present size in 1745 and was confiscated in 1779 during the Revolution because its owner, Frederick Philipse, was suspected of Tory- ism. It was later used as the City Hall, but is now owned by the State and maintained as a museum for Colonial relics. Here lived the pretty Mary Philipse, who, it is said, was Wash- ington's first love. R. 4 I. NEW YORK TO POUGHKEEPSIE 225 On the site of Yonkers stood the Indian settlement of Nappecka- mack, "rapid water settlement," centering around the rock at the mouth of Nepperhan Creek, where the natives worshiped. In 1639 it was included in the "Keskeskick" purchase made by the Dutch West India Company. In 1646 it was granted to Adriaen van der Donck, New Netherland's earliest historian and jurist. His grant was known as "Colen Donck" (Donck's colony), and his settlement be- came known as "De Jonkherr's land" (young lord's land). The latter was taken over by Frederick Philipse for his manor of Philipsburgh. Washington's army occupied a portion of the land early in the Revo- lution and fought several skirmishes hereabouts. The route bears left across Getty Square and turns right on North Broadway upgrade. At three corners at stone gates (16.5) bear left. The gates belong to the quaint old mansion recently remodeled as Long Vue Inn. 17.5 HASTINGS. Alt 12 ft. Pop (twp) 4552 (1910), 5461 (1915). Westchester Co. Mfg. wire cable and asphalt blocks. Part of town of Greenburg. Here are the great works of the National Cable and Conduit Company, where wire and tubing are drawn and insulated wire and cables made. The road we have come over, from New York to Dobbs Ferry, except for a short stretch on either side of Yonkers, is paved with asphalt blocks of the Hastings Pavement Company, whose plant is located in Hastings. The town of Hastings was once the estate of Peter Post, who occu- pied a little stone house here in the late eighteenth century. He was a patriot and assisted Colonel Sheldon in surprising a party of Hes- sians by giving them to understand that the Americans were in one direction whereas they were in reality in the other and ready to dash forth when the Hessians passed. The success of the ruse left every enemy dead except one, who reported Post's act, to the end that poor Post was beaten within an inch of his life. After the Revolution his house became a wellknown iavern and stood for many years. Opposite Hastings is Indian Head, the highest point of the Palisades. A half mile beyond, on the opposite shore, is the boundary between New Jersey and New York. The top of the Hudson terrace above for miles and miles is occupied by mag- nificent estates commanding beautiful views of the river. 18.5 DOBBS FERRY. Alt 12 ft. Pop (twp) 3455 (1910), 4030 (1915). Westchester Co. Mfg. gas burners, lager beer. This picturesque little village, which was the scene of much military activity during the Revolution because of its position on the Hudson, contains many fine country places, one of which was once Bob Ingersoll's. The Livingston Manor House, where Washington had his headquarters and where in 1783 General Washington and Sir Guy Carleton met for the final settlement of the terms on which England recognized American independence, is situated here. The room is preserved where the evacuation papers were 226 DOBBS FERRY TARRYTOWN signed, and also the rosewood table at which Lafayette dined, which used to be stretched diagonally across this room when many distinguished guests were gathered at its groaning board. In front of this house is the Washington-Rochambeau Monu- ment, erected in 1894, where, as the inscription states, on July 6, 1781, the French allies under Rochambeau joined the American Army. The Misses Masters School for Girls is so identified with this place that the school is usually referred to by its patrons as 'Dobbs Ferry.' At the end of the eighteenth century Jeremiah Dobbs, a Delaware Swede, set up a ferry maintained by the family for a century and more. Dobbs Ferry had been a part of Philipse Manor and consequently was forfeited in the Revolution. In 1776 the British occupied this point and in the following year General Benjamin Lincoln, command- ing the Continental Division, made this his headquarters. July 4, 1781, Washington encamped here with his army. To the left is the Ardsley Country Club (20.5), and just beyond, Nevis, built by the son of Alexander Hamilton and named after his father's birthplace in the West Indies. 21.0 IRVINGTON. Alt 9 ft. Pop (twp) 2319 (1910), 2379 (1915). Westchester Co. Named in honor of Washington Irving. About Irvington are a considerable number of castellated residences of half a century ago. Miss Mason's School for Girls occupies one of these buildings. To the right is the notable estate of the late Daniel G. Reed, a famous Wall Street operator. This was formerly Miss Bennett's School, now at Milford. Beyond Irvington, the road to the left leads to Sunnyside, the old home of Washington Irving. The house is covered with ivy grown from a sprig from Abbotsford, given to Irving by Sir Walter Scott. The Palisades here become less prominent and the Hudson expands into the lake-like Tappan Zee, ten miles long, and three to four miles wide. Just before reaching Tarrytown, on the left is Lyndhurst, and the Repton School for Boys, the estate of Mrs. Finley J. Shepard (Helen M. Gould). 24.5 TARRYTOWN. Alt 7 ft. Pop (twp) 5600 (1910), 5752 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled 1645. Mfg. drills and automo- biles. Ferry to Nyack. Tarrytown has developed from a long straggling village on both sides of Broadway, which was part of the old Albany Post Road, to a residential suburb. The residential section extends over high land commanding beautiful views of the Hudson. Northeast of the town is Kaakout (Dutch, "Kigkuit," "look- out"), the estate of John D. Rockefeller, and to the southeast in a beautiful situation high on the hills is the Hackley School R. 4 I. NEW YORK TO POUGHKEEPSIE 227 for Boys. Opposite is Nyack, N.Y., reached by steam ferry (3.0) across the Tappan Zee. The Knox School, the Misses Metcalf's School for Girls, and Marymount are located here. Tarrytown is a modification of its former name "tarwen dorp," "wheat town," on account of the large crops of wheat. It was built on the site of the Indian village Alipconk, "place of elms," burned by the Dutch in 1644. Soon after it was settled it became part of the great Philipse Manor and a manor house was built at Kingsland's Point, north of the present town. Dr. Hamilton Wright Mabie says, "There is probably no other locality in America, taking into account history, tradition, the old church, the manor house, and the mill, which so entirely conserves the form and spirit of Dutch civilization in the New World." Major John Andre was captured on the Post Road on the way from Tarrytown in 1780. A marble shaft surmounted by a bronze statue of a Continental soldier marks the spot. Wash- ington Irving was long warden of Christ Church here. Note. A route leads southeast from Broadway, forking left from trolley to Port Chester. At Elmsford Station (3.5) this route crosses Route 5 (p 236) to Mt. Kisco, Brewster, Pawling, the Berkshires, and Vermont. At White Plains (7.0) the route crosses Route 3 (p 204) to Bedford, Danbury, Waterbury, Hartford, and Boston. From White Plains the route follows the macadam to Port Chester (13.5) on Route i (p 72) to Bridgeport, New Haven, and Boston. Beyond Tarrytown at the brick church, in the fork, bear left. The righthand road, which is perhaps the more attractive way, leads through the estate of John D. Rockefeller to Briar- cliff. Just beyond on the right is Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, the graveyard of the Old Dutch Church, which was built in 1699 with bricks brought from Holland. It is traversed by Pocantico or Mill Brook with the bridge across which Ichabod Crane rushed when pursued by the Headless Horseman. Both Washington Irving and Carl Schurz (1829-1906) are buried in this cemetery. To the left of the church and bridge lies the land of the earlier Philipse manor, antedating the one at Yonkers. The spreading old white manor house still stands. In its yard is the well with the long balancing sweep described by Irving, and until recently the old mill stood, a ruin beside the creek. The actual bridge over which Ichabod Crane rode long ago fell to ruin, being a flimsy wooden affair, but its exact span was bridged by a new structure in 1912, the gift of William Rockefeller, as a permanent memorial to Irving's famous tale. Nearby is Rockwood Hall, the home of William Rockefeller. The route next passes through Scarboro (27.5). At this point a good road leaves the river, winding up among the Pocantico Hills to Briarcliff Manor. Mrs. Dow's School is located here. 228 OSSINING FISHKILL VILLAGE 29.5 OSSINING. Alt 8 ft. Pop (twp) 11,480 (1910), 10,326 (1915). Westchester Co. Settled 1700. Mfg. stoves, metal ware, porous plasters, underwear, and marine engines The village is finely situated, overlooking the Tappan Zee. It is a residential town for people of moderate means. Here are a number of wellknown private schools, The Dr. Hoi- brook School for Boys, Mt. Pleasant Academy, and the Ossin- ing School for Girls. Ossining has most varied industries, including Rand McNally's press and the Alcock Porou; Plaster plant. On the river front is the famous Sing Sing State Prison, which has been the scene of so much disgraceful political corruption and the courageous effort of Thomas Mott Osborne to reform the institution and introduce modern methods in spite of the determined opposition of the political gangsters. This locality derives its name from the Sin-Sinck Indians. For- merly known as Sing Sing, its name was changed in 1901 to differ- entiate the town from the penitentiary. The territory about here was a part of Philipse Manor, first settled about 1700. Two miles beyond Ossining, the road crosses Croton River, the waters of which are stored and diverted by a dam a few miles above and conducted by the Croton Aqueduct to New York. Near Ossining this is carried across a ravine by a stone arch with an 8o-foot span. Just beyond the Croton river, Croton Point extends out into the Hudson for a distance of one and a half miles, ending in Tellers Point. It was off here that the British man-of-war "Vulture" lay at anchor, await- ing the return of Andre from his conference with Benedict Arnold on the other side of the river. A party of Americans, seeing the "Vulture" lying within range, brought down a cannon from Verplanck's Point and used it so well that the vessel was compelled to drop down stream. This prevented Andre from returning on board, so he crossed at King's Ferry to Verplanck's Point arid made the attempt to reach New York by land which resulted in his capture. The route passes through Harmon (32.5), a new residential town in the course of development, and just beyond reaches 33.5 CROTON-ON-HUDSON. Alt 9 ft. Pop (twp) 1086 (1910), 2243 (1915). Westchester Co. To the west lie the Kitchawan Hills. Here the Hudson is at its widest and is known as Haverstraw Bay from the town opposite, which lies at the base of High Tor (820 ft). Three miles above is Stony Point, marked by a lighthouse. The fort here was taken by the British and six weeks later was suc- cessfully stormed in one of the most brilliant exploits of the Revolution by 'Mad Anthony' Wayne, on the night of July 15, 1779. Croton perpetuates the name of an Indian chief, Kenoten, "wind." R. 4 I. NEW YORK TO POUGHKEEPSIE 22Q The route runs inland, cutting off the bend in the river where Verplanck's Point projects opposite Stony Point. It was here in 1778 that Baron Steuben, the Prussian officer, effectually taught the Continental soldiers the efficiency of drill. Passing through Montrose, the route turns right on South St., curving left into Division St., to 41.5 PEEKSKILL. Alt 10 ft. Pop (twp) 15,245 (1910), 15,502 (1915). Westchester Co. Mfg. stoves, boilers, brick machines, hats, underwear, and yeast cakes. Value of Product, $7,251,000. Peekskill is the home of many New York business men and a number of private schools. Its manufactures are of consid- erable importance. Peekskill ("kill" "brook" or "creek") was named for Jan Peek, a Dutch seventeenth century mariner who followed Peekskill Creek, thinking he was on the Hudson, until his ship ran aground. Jan was a tapster who had headquarters on Broadway, and whose character was so "scandalous" that the sheriff reported that he found "drinking clubs on divers nights at the house of Jan Peek with dancing and jump- ing and entertainment of disorderly people." In spite of this, the village named for him grew to be a godly place and has boasted many fine churches. Opposite is Dunderberg, at the foot of which Captain Kidd deposited a portion of that burdensome treasure which he spread so generously over the land, if all the local traditions are to be believed. Just south of it is Tompkins Cover with limestone quarries. To the north of Dunderberg is lona Island with stores of naval ammunition. From here north- ward, the Hudson enters the section known as the Highlands, and the route runs inland, cutting off a bend in the river, and takes the right fork (46.0) on the new State Road which runs inland to Fishkill. Note. The lefthand route leads to Garrison-on-the-Hudson (62.0), which lies opposite West Point, with which it is con- nected by steam ferry. Just above are Constitution Island and Cold Spring at the foot of Mt. Forest (1425 ft), opposite Storm King Mountain (1530 ft). 61.0 FISHKILL VILLAGE. Alt 223 ft, R.R. Pop (twp) 516 (1910), 531(1915). Dutchess Co. Ferry to Newburgh. The village lies in the valley of Fishkill Creek among the hills, four miles back from the Hudson. Here there are two fine old eighteenth century churches. Cooper made this vil- lage the scene of many of the incidents in "The Spy." To the south is Mt. Beacon (1585 ft). An inclined railway ascends to the summit, where there is a casino commanding surpassing views over the valley of the Hudson and the sur- rounding hills and mountains. During the Revolution beacon fires were kindled here to signal the approach of the British. 230 FISHKILL VILLAGE RHI NEB KCK Note. To the left are Matteawan and Beacon, the latter formerly called Fishkill Landing, lying opposite Newburgh, with which it is connected by a steam ferry. One of the principal routes from Pennsylvania and the West to New England crosses the Hudson by this ferry and passes through Fishkill Village, bearing left at the three corners by the church. Crossing the R.R. a mile and a half beyond, it continues over the iron bridge, turning left and following macadam to Hope- well (15.0 from Beacon). Here the route bears left on mac- adam with the Pawling signs, past West Pawling (22.0), into Pawling (26.0). Here it joins Route 5 (p 239) to Salis- bury and the Berkshires, where it connects with various routes for the principal New England points. 66.0 WAPPINGERS FALLS. Alt 100 ft. Pop (twp) 3195 (1910), 3742 (1915). Dutchess Co. Mfg. prints and overalls. Wappinger Creek here furnishes valuable waterpower and there are large print works and manufactories of overalls here. The name is derived from that of an Indian tribe. Here the route rejoins the valley road from Beacon. 73.5 POUGHKEEPSIE. Alt 170 ft. Pop 29,598 (1910), 32,714 (1915). Dutchess Co. Settled 1698. Mfg. pig iron, mow- ing machines, horseshoes, automobiles, glassware, and gas- oline engines. Ferry to Highland. Poughkeepsie is built on the terraces facing the Hudson, rising 200 feet above the river and, in part, on the level plateau above. It is the scene in June of the intercollegiate boat races, in which the chief American colleges, except Yale and Harvard, have rowed annually since 1895. On the outskirts of the town, along the banks of the river, are many handsome residences and beautiful estates, some of which are still in the possession of the original Knickerbocker families. The Hudson is crossed at Poughkeepsie by the great cantilever railway bridge, con- structed 1886-89. It is one and a half miles long and the rails are 200 feet above high water. Poughkeepsie is a considerable educational center. Two miles east of the city center is Vassar College, the grounds of which include an area of over 400 acres. It is the oldest and perhaps the best known of American women's colleges and has just celebrated its fiftieth anniversary. It was founded in 1861 by Matthew Vassar, an Englishman and a wealthy brewer. There are a number of private schools, including Putnam Hall and Glen Eden Seminary, both for girls, and the long estab- lished Riverview Academy. Poughkeepsie was settled by the Dutch about i6g8 and its name is derived from the Indian word " Apokeepsing," "a safe harbor." The New York legislature met here for many years during the latter part R. 4 2. POUGHKEEPSIE TO ALBANY 231 of the eighteenth century, and in 1780 the Federal Constitution was ratified here by the New York Convention. Note. A State Highway leads from Poughkeepsie to Amenia and the Berkshires. At the corner of Main and Market Sts., turn east with trolley on Main St., forking left at blacksmith shop (2.0) and passing on the left the De Witt Clinton man- sion, to Pleasant Valley (7.0), a region of handsome estates. Continue through Washington Hollow. At the crossroads, the route turns to the left, passing the Bennett School for Girls, directly on the left, and an eighth of a mile beyond, on the right, the Millbrook Inn. After crossing R.R., pass directly through Millbrook (15.5), the main street of which leads to the lodge at the entrance to Daheim, the Dietrich estate. Here turn to the right on the State Highway which continues over the hills through the hamlets of Mabbettsville (17.5) and Lithgow (21.0), to Amenia (26.0), where the road joins Route 5 (p 241). R. 4 2. Poughkeepsie to Albany. 74.0 m. Leaving Poughkeepsie by way of Washington St., we pass under the eastern approaches of the great Hudson river bridge and by numerous residential estates. 6.0 HYDE PARK. Alt 8 ft, R.R. Pop. 3019. Dutchess Co. From here on, the river banks become much lower and the Catskills are a prominent feature in the distance across the river. Just beyond the village on the river front is the F. W. Vanderbilt estate and on the opposite bank is the home of John Burroughs. Just beyond Staatsburg (10.0) on the right is Dinsmore Point and the residence of the late William B. Dinsmore, once president of the Adams Express Company. The route runs inland, following the State Road to Rhinebeck. The river road passes through Rhinecliff, near which is the estate of Vincent Astor. 16.0 RHINEBECK. Alt 203 ft. Pop (twp) 1548 (1910), 1580 (1915}. Dutchess Co. Mfg. carriages and shellac; violet- growing. Ferry to Kingston. Rhinebeck is the center of the violet-growing industry, to which twenty-five square miles are given over. It is also the distributing center of the region round about. The name is combined from William Beckman, who founded the town, and his native Rhineland. The Beckman House is a fine example of seventeenth century Dutch architecture. Two miles to the west is Rhinecliff, which is connected with Kingston, opposite, by a steam ferry (toll 30 or 35 cts, pas- sengers 13 cts). 232 RHINEBECK ALBANY Note. From Rhinecliff a cross-country route leads to Lakeville, Conn., and the Berkshires or the Connecticut region. Passing through Rhinebeck (2.0), on East Market St. the route forks left at the blacksmith's shop (5.5), leading through Rock City (8.5), Lafayette (13.0), into Pine Plains (19.5). Here the lefthand road leads to Great Barrington. Continu- ing straight on, along Church St., and crossing R.R., the route leads through Culvers Corners (23.5). Bearing right across R.R. and then left on the macadam road through Millerton (29.5), it forks left over R.R. (31.5) to Lakeville (33.5) on Route 5 (p 242). 21.S RED HOOK. Alt 217 ft. Pop 960. Dutchess Co. Mfg. chocolate; tobacco. This village is in the midst of a farming district and has tobacco factories. The name is derived from Roode Hoeck which the Dutch applied to a nearby marsh covered with cranberries. The route runs still further inland through Upper Red Hook (25.0). Five miles to the west, on the Hudson, is North Bay, where Fulton built the "Clermont." At the fork, bear left across the county line, immediately passing through Nevis (27.0), named from Alexander Hamilton's birthplace. 29.0 CLERMONT. Alt 226 ft. Pop (twp) 800. Columbia Co. It was the original seat of the Livingstons, and Chancellor Livingston, the friend of Fulton, named it for the first Ameri- can steamboat. Opposite is Maiden, above which is Kaater- skill Mountain (2145 ft), with its summer hotels. Beyond take left fork, following State Highway straight through Blue Stores (30.5), a crossroads hamlet. 33.5 LIVINGSTON. Alt 198 ft. Pop (twp) 1620. Columbia Co. This town was named for Robert R. Livingston. There is a fine view across the river of the 'Man in the Mountain' in the Catskills. Catskill, on the west bank, is at the mouth of Catskill Creek, and is a good entrance to the mountains. This was the highest point reached by Hudson's ship, the "Half Moon," but he sent small boats up to Waterloo. 42.0 HUDSON. Alt 150 ft Pop 11,417 (1910), 11,544 (1915). County-seat of Columbia Co. Settled 1784. Mfg. clothing, car wheels, furniture, paper boxes, ice-handling machines, knit goods, foundry products, bricks, tiles, paper, and beer. Ferry to Athens. The city is picturesquely situated on the slope of Prospect Hill. Promenade Park on the bluff above the steamboat land- ing commands a fine view of the river and the Catskill Moun- tains. The town has a river trade and important manufac- tures with a total value of factory products of over $4,000,000, and here are located two large Portland cement works. R. 4 2. POUGHKEEPSIE TO ALBANY 233 Hudson was settled by thrifty New Englanders from Nantucket and Marthas Vineyard, and though 115 miles from the ocean, it success- fully carried on a whaling industry and considerable foreign commerce, both of which were destroyed in the War of 1812. Note. From Hudson a State Highway leads eastward to South Egremont and the Berkshires. From the Ferry it crosses the city by Front and Warren Sts., at the public square turning left on Columbia St. which is continued as Columbia Turnpike. Claverack (5.0) was probably named for the Dutch "klaver-akker," "clover-field"; but " klaver " may mean "opening" or "side gorge," the latter referring to the creek which here joins the Hudson. The Dutch skippers divided the Hudson into thirteen "racks" or "reaches." The route then goes over the hills through the hamlet of Hollowville, and Martindale (n.o), following a narrow tribu- tary valley into the broader upper valley of Taghkanick to Craryville (15.0) and Hillsdale (18.0). Here the road rises and on the right is a fine view of Mt. Everett (2624 ft). At (24.0) South Egremont, Mass., it joins Route 5 (p 245). From the Public Square in Hudson, the main route follows Columbia St. and Green St. to the macadam State Highway over R.R., through the little hamlet of Stottville (45.0), and descends to Stockport (47.5). Here the route turns right, crossing Claverack Creek, and follows along the valley of Kinderhook Creek through Chittenden Falls to Stuyvesant Falls (50.5). Crossing Kinderhook Creek it continues to 54.2 KINDERHOOK. Alt 240 ft. Pop 827 (1915). Columbia Co. Mfg. knit hoods. Kinderhook was an important coaching center before the railroad came. The isyth milestone still remains by the grove not far from the cemetery. One of the finest of the Dutch Colonial houses is that built by Stephen van Alen (1721), on the right as we approach the village. Across the road from the Brick Church is the Van Schaack mansion where Burgoyne was entertained after his capture. A mile or more beyond the village on the Post Road is the Van Alen Homestead (1737), where Katrina van Tassel lived. Still further on is Lindenwald, originally the Van Ness homestead, enlarged and improved by President Van Buren. 56.0 VALATIE. Alt 245 ft. Pop (twp) 1219 (1910), 1410 (1915). Columbia Co. Mfg. upholsterers' gimp, paper, and knit goods. The route continues north, with the Taconic range to the east. 66.0 SCHODACK CENTER. The road follows Route 13 to Rensselaer and 74.0 ALBANY (R. 13). R. 5. NEW YORK to the BERKSHIRES, VERMONT, and MONTREAL 412.0 m. Via PAWLING, SALISBURY, PITTSFIELD, and BENNINGTON. This most direct route from New York to the Berkshires and Vermont affords also an interesting entrance to New England. It is a route much used by tourists from Pennsyl- vania and the South who wish to avoid New York City. They may cross the Hudson from Nyack to Tarry town, joining the route at Eastview (p 227), or, crossing at Newburgh, may join the route further north at Pawling (p 230), or, crossing at Poughkeepsie, join it at Amenia (p 231). From Canaan one may turn eastward to Hartford, Route 8, or from Lenox through the western Berkshires to Springfield, Route 13, or from North Adams via the Mohawk Trail to Greenfield and Boston and the New England Coast, Route 15. This popular inland route follows in general the course of the Harlem valley northward through the Westchester hills and the southern spurs of the Taconic range. Entering Con- necticut, the Litchfield hills become mountains, rising to an altitude of over 2000 feet. Thence the course is through the heart of the Berkshires and the Green Mountain region past historic Bennington and Manchester, the mecca of summer auto tourists, down the valley of Otter Creek to Burlington. From there the route leads across the islands of Lake Cham- plain, joining the King Edward Highway to Montreal. The route follows State Highways throughout its course. In New York this is generally macadam, with the white fences characteristic of State Highways and frequent sign posts erected by the Highway Commission making the route clear. From the Connecticut boundary, excepting the short section Salisbury-Canaan, yellow bands, the route throughout to the northern boundary of Massachusetts follows State Highway, marked with blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. R. 5 1. New York City to Pittsfield, Mass. 145.5 m. Via ELMSFORD, KATONAH, BREWSTER, PAWLING, AMENIA, SALISBURY, GREAT BARRINGTON, and STOCKBRIDGE. The route leads northward through the pleasant hills of Westchester and Kensico, a region undergoing great topo- graphical change owing to the tremendous excavations that are being made for great reservoirs which in conjunction with the Catskill Reservoir system are to furnish New York with a greatly increased water supply. Thence it follows the so- called Harlem valley, through which runs the Harlem division (234) R. 5 I. NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 235 of the New Haven railroad, but which in truth is drained by various streams, some flowing into the Housatonic and some into the Hudson. The Croton valley with its numerous reservoirs and lakelets has become in the last decade a region of gentlemen's country estates. The Harlem valley is fol- lowed to Dover Plains and thence the route continues through the southern spurs of the Taconic range to Amenia and across the Connecticut State line to the beautiful old town of Sharon. The route leaves the Plaza, 59th St. and Fifth Ave., passing through Central Park, left of the Mall, to Webster's statue; thence by Seventh Ave. to i45th St. There turn right, crossing Harlem River by Central Bridge, and then turn sharp left into Mott Ave. (5.0). Leaving the General Franz Sigel statue on the left follow Grand Boulevard and Concourse. Straight ahead is Route 3 (p 203), an alternative to Hart's Corners (21.2). We turn right (9.5) into Pelham Ave. In Poe Park on the left of the Concourse is the home of the poet; further to the left is St. John's College, R.C. The route now crosses Bronx Park between the Zoological Gardens on the right and the Botanical Gardens on the left. At the forks on the further side (10.5) turn left on White Plains Road through the suburban villages of Mt. Vernon, Bronxville, Tuckahoe, and Crest wood, paralleling the Bronx Parkway. See map (p 221). The Bronx Parkway was first conceived about 1895 as a piece of sanitary reclamation to free the Bronx river from pollution; more recently the value of extended park systems has been recognized. Thanks to public-spirited land owners and far-sighted real estate com- panies, the greater part of the road bordering the Bronx from the Botanical Gardens to Valhalla on the new Kensico Reservoir, a distance of fifteen and one half miles, has been obtained at an unusually low expense. A great proportion has been parked; tracts have been set apart for athletic fields and playgrounds, and disfiguring features have been almost wholly eradicated. When the new roadway is completed in iQi8 this will undoubtedly become New York's chief northern artery of travel. The total cost, running into several millions, will be almost trivial as compared with the benefit to the public. 19.0 SCARSDALE. Alt 200 ft. Pop 2717 (1915). Westchester Co. This is a growing residential district, named for a town in Derbyshire, England. The Wayside Inn, used before the Revolution, stands beside the road and is now a tea house. It was patronized by early drovers from the 'far West,' meaning Ohio, on their way into New York, and was a stopping place for the mail coach, being on the post road. The visitor of today is shown saber marks on the door, said to have been made during a siege by the British, when all was destroyed save the Bible and the cow, which the owner had hidden down cellar, they being his most valuable property. Near this building stands one of the original milestones of the old post 236 SCARSDALE PLEASANTVILLE road, protected from the elements by a screening boulder. The inscription is almost erased by time, but the date " 1771 " is partially visible. Among the original settlers of this town were the Heathcote and Tompkins families. The former gave it the name of their old English home, meaning "a dale enclosed with rocks," "scarrs" being "crags." To the latter belonged Daniel D. Tompkins, who became Vice President of the United States, and Judge Caleb Tompkins, a famous patriot of the Revolution, who was driven from his home by the British, but preserved his life by wading into a swamp and staying there up to his ears until the pursuers passed by. Fenimore Cooper once had a chateau here. At Hartsdale (21.0) the route turns left on Fenimore Road, crossing the Bronx Parkway near the Italian Sunken Gardens and the Tennis Club, and continues westward along Hartsdale Road through Hartsdale Corners. 24.2 ELMSFORD. Alt 173 ft. Pop (twp) 1380 (1915). Westchester Co. This village, where the valley of Sawmill River broadens among the hills, is rapidly becoming one of suburban homes. Here lives Col. J. C. L. Hamilton, the great-grandson of Alexander Hamilton on one side and of Cornelius van Tassel on the other, himself a veteran of the Civil War. His house contains a large collection of valuable historic relics, among them such articles as letters and documents of Revolutionary officers, ancient firearms, the andirons which stood in the gigantic fireplace of the old Van Tassel home, furniture of both old families, and the pewter basin which, according to tradi- tion, served Andre on the day of his capture for a bowl of bread and milk. In the yard of the old Dutch church stands a monument to Isaac Van Wart, one of the captors of Andre. The inscription states that in September, 1780, "Isaac van Wart accompanied by John Paulding and David Will- iams, all farmers in the county, intercepted Major Andre on his return from the American lines in the character of a spy, and, notwithstand- ing the large bribes offered them for his release, nobly disdaining to sacrifice their country for gold, secured and carried him to the com- mander of the district, whereby the dangerous and traitorous con- spiracy of Arnold was brought to light, the insidious designs of the enemy baffled, the American army saved, and our beloved country, now free and independent, rescued from most imminent peril." A mile south of the village is the home of Cornelius Van Tassel, whose original house was burned by the British at the time he was carried off a prisoner to the old Sugar House in New York. In a house now known by the name of Feather- stone, Washington and Rochambeau held conferences during important maneuvers. At the Four Corners occurred many of the scenes in Cooper's "Spy," and here stood Betty Flan- nigan's Tavern, where the soldiers refreshed themselves. The route continues north, avoiding crossing R.R., and R. 5 I. NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 237 follows the hills above the valley of Sawmill River to Eastview (26.5), where we pass the beautiful Butler estate and cross the Croton Aqueduct and turn right on the road from Tarrytown, continuing along the valley of the Sawmill river to Neperhan (29.0). This is a region of bungalows recently taken up for real estate exploitation. The first purchaser, Adriaen van der Donck, in 1639, vainly tried to Hollandize the Indian name into "Nepperheim." 32.0 PLEASANTVILLE. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 2464 (1915). This is an old settled community in the midst of pleasant country. It was the 'Clark's Corners' of early days, when Henry Clark and his wife Rachel conveyed by deed to the trustees of the Methodist Episcopal Church the land for its use. Here the new reservoir system can be clearly traced as it travels over miles of hill and valley. The route leads over the hills above the Sawmill river valley and through the outskirts of Chappaqua (33.5). The village lies chiefly about the station in the valley below to the left. It is on the divide separating the waters of Sawmill River and those of the Croton valley. To the north is Chap- paqua Mountain (739 ft). Russet apples, and cucumbers for pickles, long ago made Chappaqua famous as a farming local- ity. Near the station is a bronze statue of Mr. Greeley, erected through the efforts of the Chappaqua Historical Society, and on the State Road, north of the station, is the Old Quaker Meeting House (1764) used as a hospital after the battle of White Plains. In 1851 Horace Greeley, while editor of the "Tribune," bought a tract of seventy-five acres, on the western edge of which stands the present railroad station. To this retreat, Greeley said, he would "steal from the city's labors and anxieties, at least one day in each week, to revive as a farmer the memories of my childhood's humble home." He drained a swamp, turned it into a model farm, and made it famous as "Greeley Swamp," celebrating it in his famous book, "What I Know About Farming." On election day he would travel several miles to the nearest polling place and there gather a crowd of country people around him from far and near, while he gave impromptu orations on live topics. At his farm he received the crushing news of his defeat by Grant in the Presidential election of 1872. From this disappointment Greeley never recovered, and he died at the home of his friend, Dr. Choate, near his farm, on Nov. 2g, 1872. The Greeley Homestead, like the Jay Homestead, near Katonah, was a well- known station on the 'Underground Railway,' by which many hundreds of runaway slaves journeyed from bondage in the South to freedom in Canada. The house was burned several years ago, but was converted into a residence and is now the summer home of Mr. Greeley's daughter. The road leads on through the hamlet of Newcastle (37.3). This vicinity was an old Quaker headquarters, and the Friends rode horseback or traveled in droll, oldfashioned vehicles 238 PLEASANTVILLE PAWLING from the farms around to hold First-Day service in the three meeting houses erected near by. During the Revolution New- castle was included in the "Neutral Ground" and was plun- dered and harassed. Washington crossed through Newcastle Corners and Mt. Kisco on his way from the battle of White Plains. The Indian chief Wampus had his wigwam near here, and the deed by which he and his associates conveyed the land to Colonel Caleb Heathcote granted him the "tene- ments, gardens, orchards, arable lands, pastures, feedings, woods, underwoods, meadows, marshes, lakes, ponds, rivers, rivulets, mines, minerals (royal mines only excepted), fishing, fowling, hunting, and hawking rights," from which it will be seen that the country is extremely rich by nature. 38.0 MT. KISCO. Alt 280ft. Pop (twp) 2802 (1910), 2902 (1915). Westchester Co. The village spreads through the valley up on the surround- ing hills. The height above, adjacent to Kisco Mountain (620 ft), is a region of attractive homes. There are a number of pretty lakes in the vicinity. The route follows parallel with the R.R. past Bedford Hills Station (40.5). In the hills about here there are many farms which have been made into beauti- ful residential estates. The Bedford School for Boys is located here. Many Indian relics have been found hereabout. 43.0 KATONAH. Alt 300 ft. Pop 950. Westchester Co. Named for an Indian chief. The village lies in the valley of Cross River near where it joins the Croton. The construction of the new Croton Reser- voir occasioned the rebuilding of the village in an attractive situation one mile south of the old site. The country about here and eastward to Ridgefield, Conn., seven miles distant, is one of the country estates of New York residents. Two miles east of Katonah is the Jay Homestead, residence of John Jay, first Chief Justice of the United States Supreme Court. The estate has been owned by the Jay family since 1743, when Mary, wife of Peter Jay and mother of the Chief Justice, inherited it from her father, Colonel Jacobus van Cortlandt. The Chief Justice built the greater part of the present house, made it his permanent home in 1801 after he had served two terms as Governor of New York, and lived here in retirement until his death in 1829. The noble elms and maples along the nearby roads were set out by him. Like Horace Greeley's farm, near Chappaqua, the Jay Homestead was a 'station' on the 'Underground Railway' by which fugitive slaves made their way to Canada. From Katonah turn right across the R.R., and at fork bear left. Goldens Bridge (45.8) is a crossroads hamlet in a R. 5 i. NEW YORK CITY TO PTTTSFIELD, MASS. 239 dairying region on the crest of the ridge overlooking the Croton valley. The valleys are everywhere occupied by reservoirs of the Croton system, and the region is owned and maintained by the city of New York. From the Four Corners turn left across R.R. and long iron bridge over the Croton river. Bearing right along the mac- adam road the route leads to 48.5 SOMERS. Alt 300 ft. Westchester Co. Settled 1736. Somers has long been the winter home of circus performers. The curious Elephant Monument at the fork commemorates 'Old Bet,' said to have been the first member of her tribe to be brought to this land, and imported in 1815 by Hachaliah Bailey, a resident of Somers, credited with being the originator of the traveling menagerie in this country. For years Bet was 'the whole show' that Bailey had to offer, and never failed to "amaze the gazing rustics ranged around." Bailey was also a popular Boniface in his day, and kept the Elephant Hotel, which stood opposite the monument. Somers was part of the old Cortlandt Manor. First called Stephen Town, it was changed in 1808 in honor of Captain Richard Somers of Tripolitan War fame. One of the early inhabitants was John Hemp- stead, who, according to his tombstone in the Somers Plain burying ground, lived to the good old age of 107 years, 5 months, and 21 days. Keeping to the left of the monument, at the watering trough one quarter of a mile beyond take left fork. Two miles beyond turn right and bear left along the Croton valley into 54.5 BREWSTER. Alt 420 ft. Pop 1296 (1910), 1402 (1915). Put- nam Co. Mfg. condensed milk; R.R. repair shops. Brewster lies in the midst of attractive lakes and reservoirs among the hills, and is famous for its fishing. The iron mines in the vicinity were formerly of some importance. Mining in a small way was carried on as early as 1806. The Tilly Foster mine has a special interest. In 1830 one Tilly Foster bought a tract of iron deposits, but not until 1853, eleven years after his death, was it developed. In 1870 a cave-in killed six men, and in 1805 thirteen similarly lost their lives, whereupon the State forbade further operation. It is now owned by the Lackawanna Steel Company. The new macadam State Road from Brewster to Pawling and northward is almost unmistakably identified by white rail fences and frequent signs. From Brewster R.R. station turn right, and three quarters of a mile beyond cross bridge and turn left. At watering trough at fork bear left along winding macadam road with heavy grades into 67.5 PAWLING. Alt 450 ft. Pop (twp) 848 (1910), 1050 (1915). Dutchess Co. Pawling is a pleasant village among the hills and charming lakes of Dutchess Co. On the west is Mt. Tom (1000 ft), and 240 PAWLING SHARON on the east, Purgatory Hill (900 ft). On Mizzentop (1300 ft), east of Purgatory Hill, is the Mizzentop Hotel, commanding an extended view. At the entrance to the village and opposite the golf grounds stands a tree which marks the site of Wash- ington's headquarters from Sept. 12 to Nov. 27, 1778. During this period a wing of the Continental Army encamped on Quaker Hill, three miles to the east. On Quaker Hill, formerly called the 'Oblong Meeting,' by the Quakers, is the old Quaker Meeting House which was used as a military hospital during the Revolution. The house occupied by Washington and Lafayette remains here, but slightly altered. To the right, leaving the village, are the handsome buildings of the Pawling School for Boys. The route follows northward through the valley of Swamp River. Just before reaching Wingdale we pass the site of the proposed State Prison, which changes of administration and policy have left unbuilt. On the corner at the right in Wingdale (74.0) is the brick Colonial homestead of the Wing family, which sheltered Wash- ington on one occasion. Near the station, half a mile to the left, are marble working shops, the stone for which is quarried in the hills about three miles to the northeast. These quarries in the past ten years have furnished the beautiful white marble for the Tiffany Building, the U.S. Treasury, and the Stock Exchange in New York City, and for the Senate Building in Washington. From the west enters Route 4n (p 230). The route climbs a hill, continuing straight northward along the valley of Ten Mile River. The road to the right with trolley leads to Webotuck, and beyond to the valley of the Housatonic. At South Dover (75.0), in the hills to the left is Dover Furnace, where iron was smelted in Colonial times and up to forty years ago. 81.5 DOVER PLAINS. Alt 400 ft. Pop (twp) 800. Dutchess Co. The village at the end of the Harlem division has a consid- erable population of railway men. On the corner at the right of Main St. is a century-old building, now a tea house. To the west is Chestnut Ridge (1200 ft), part of the water- shed between the Hudson and the Housatonic rivers. About a mile southwest of the village a stream flowing down from the western hills in a succession of cascades has worn at the falls by the action of revolving stones smooth round holes in the limestone rock, called The Wells. Higher up in a wooded gorge is The Old Stone Church, an extensive cavern in the form of a Gothic arch with a span of about 25 feet. "The massive, sombre archway of the cave, the pulpit rock, the walls almost perfectly arched, covered with R. 5 I. NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 241 green moss and white lichen, the sound of falling water, all contribute to make it a church of Nature's own fashioning, a little cathedral not made with hands." A mile beyond Dover Plains the road to the left leads over Plymouth Hill to Millbrook and Poughkeepsie. The main route, straight ahead, follows the valley of Ten Mile River and forks left with the R.R. through a narrow gorge worn by Wassaic Creek, the hills rising on either side to 1300 feet. The village of Wassaic (87.3), whose Indian name means "difficult," or "hard working," lies at the entrance of the narrow valley to the left, called Turkey Hollow. Here is one of the earliest established of Borden's Condensed Milk factories. 90.5 AMENIA. Alt 573 ft. Pop 300. Dutchess Co. The name of this village was devised from the Latin word meaning "pleasant," by the same early scholar who also gave Vermont its Latin name. The iron ores of the region were still smelted here in a single furnace up to a few years ago. The old Academy in Amenia was famous in its time, as was its autumnal agricultural fair. Route 4n (p 231) enters here. Bearing right across the R.R. (92.7), past Sharon Station, a mile beyond the route crosses the boundary line of Con- necticut, marked by a stone post. From this point on the route is clearly marked by the Connecticut Highway Commis- sion with blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. Note. An alternate route to Lakeville follows the R.R. north to Millerton (99.5), thence eastward with the Central N. E. R.R. to Lakeville (103.5). 95.4 SHARON. Alt 780 ft. Pop (twp) 1880. Litchfield Co., Conn. Settled 1732. Indian name Poconnuck. This is a village of rural loveliness which attracts many summer boarders. The 'Street,' 200 feet wide and two miles long, is bordered by grand old elms forming a natural arbor. The Soldiers' Monument with a stone cannon, and a stone clock tower are the modern features of the village. The Gov- ernor John Cotton Smith House, a fine specimen of Georgian architecture, is still perfectly preserved. The fine old George King brick house (1800) is at the head of the street. The C. C. Tiffany house (1757) is perhaps the oldest in the town. The old Pardee brick house (1782) stands by the Stone Bridge. The Prindle house is a spacious gambrel-roof dwelling on Gay St. near the charming lakelet which furnishes a natural reservoir for the village water supply. The picturesque old Gay House has the builder's initials "M. G. 1765" on a stone in the gable. In the early days Sharon was a place of busy and varied industries. Iron was manufactured here as early as 1743, and continued an im- 242 SHARON SALISBURY portant industry up to fifty years ago. During the Civil War muni- tions were made here, and it was then in the shops of the Hotchkiss Company in this village that the Hotchkiss explosive shell for rifled guns was invented, which led to the expansion of the company and its removal to Bridgeport. To the north of the village is Mudge Pond, or Crystal Lake, and beyond, Indian Mountain (1200 ft). At the western foot of the mountain, on the State line, lies Indian Pond, now called Wequagnock Lake. On the edge of this lake was an Indian village where the Moravians early established a mission that did great work among the Indians. To the Moravians it was known as "Gnadensee," the Lake of Grace. From Sharon the route runs northward past Lake Wononpa- kook and Lake Wononskopomuc, the latter an Indian word meaning "sparkling water." Between the lakes, as the road forks right, is situated the widely known Hotchkiss School, for boys, an important feeder to Yale. On the right, half a mile from Lakeville, is the residence of Hon. Wm. Travers Jerome, formerly District Attorney of New York City. 101 .5 LAKEVILLE. Alt 800 ft. Pop 1050. Litchfield Co. Lakeville is beautifully situated, with mountains rising all about it to more than 2000 feet. There are some fine old Colonial residences in and about the village. The mansion with Ionic portico was built in 1808 by John Milton Holley. Holleywood, the residence of Governor Holley, was built in 1852. Cloverly, built by General Elisha Sterling before 1800, is now the residence of Mrs. Fiske Arons. The residence of William B. Perry was built in 1795 for the village tavern, by Peter Farnam, and has recently been restored as the Farnam Tavern. Many modern summer cottages overlook the lake. Route 4n enters from the west (p 232). The early prosperity of Lakeville was due to the iron ore in this vicinity, which was first mined in 1734. Ore Hill, just to the west of Lake Wononskopomuc, and Red Mountain and Mine Mountain to the south, all indicate by their names the presence of mineral ores. The brown hematite, or limonite, ore occurs in the so-called Stockbridge limestone which underlies Salisbury. This is of lower Ordovician age, and has a thickness of 500 feet, overlying the Berkshire Hudson schist which forms the mass of Bear Mountain, Salisbury. Smelted with charcoal it furnishes a very pure iron, much valued for its toughness. Most of the mining today is done at Ore Hill and the product smelted at Lime Rock, chiefly by the Barnum & Richardson Company, who produce a high grade charcoal iron, the demand for which is greatly in excess of the supply. Ethan Allen lived here in his youth and later was interested in the iron works, as was also Robert Livingston, who purchased the Jabez Swift house of 1773 on Old Town Hill, occupied for a time by the wife of General Montgomery. Cornelius Knickerbocker and other Dutch- men from New York also made their homes here. From Lakeville the route continues northward, keeping to R. 5 I. NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 243 the left of the railway underpass. As from the beginning of the Connecticut line, the route as far as Salisbury is marked by blue bands on the telegraph poles and fence posts. 103.5 SALISBURY. Alt 685 ft. Pop (twp) 3522. Litchfield Co. Settled 1720. Indian name Weatogue. Mfg. iron, car wheels, and knife handles. On the shady main street of the village are some fine old houses. The John Churchill Cofnng homestead is now the residence of Hon. Donald T. Warner. The old Bushnell Tavern stands in striking contrast to the Scoville Memorial Library, an attractive building of gray granite with a square tower. The old Stiles House of 1772 still stands on Salisbury St. At the northern end of the village is the Thomas Ball homestead of 1745, near Ball Brook. The Salisbury School for boys is located on a hilltop overlooking the town. To the east of Salisbury lies Mt. Prospect (1475 ft). To the west is the great mountain mass of Mt. Riga, culminating in Bear Mountain (2355 ft), the highest point in Connecticut, in the extreme northwest corner of the State. On its summit is a monument with a gilded globe, erected by Robbins Battell of Norfolk. Several roads lead up Mt. Riga, where formerly the iron mines were extensively worked, and where there were furnaces for smelting the ore. The road from Salisbury to the old furnace winds for four miles along a tumbling brook. Its Indian name was Wachocastinook, but it also bears the Dutch name of Fellkill. Near the old furnace is the Pettee homestead, built by one of the old iron masters of a century ago. From Salisbury a road leads down the valley of the Salmon Creek to Lime Rock, where are the iron smelt- ing works. A mile above are the falls of the Housatonic, sometimes called Canaan Falls, which have a drop of about 60 feet. The township of Salisbury, the most northwesterly and the highest in Connecticut, was settled by Dutchmen from Livingston manor. It was in 1720 that, attracted by the deposits of iron thus early dis- covered, they bought a tract of land bordering the Housatonic, called Weatogue, "the wigwam place." This lay on the Irtdian trail which ran from the Stockbridge wigwams to those of the Schaghticokes, below the village of Kent. The English Puritans from Windsor followed a year later, likewise attracted by the ore deposits. The first furnace and forge was erected in 1734, and in 1762 another extensive plant was organized by Ethan Allen. There was relatively as great excitement on the Connecticut border over Ore Hill and Mt. Riga as over the California gold fields in '49. Skilled workmen from Russia and Switzerland were imported to smelt the ores, and it still remains an open question as to whether the mountain was named from Mt. Rigi in Switzerland or from Riga whence the Russians came in 1781 to work at Balls Forge. These foreigners have left some in- teresting place names round about here. Barack Matiff is the name applied to a mountain near Salisbury under the shadow of which 244 SALISBURY CANAAN Alexander Hamilton studied civil engineering at the home of Samuel Moore, an eminent mathematician of the time. Copper, too, was mined in Salisbury in Revolutionary times, and the first copper cents were coined here. At the outbreak of the Revolu- tion the iron works of Salisbury were taken over by the Government. Here were cast the cannon for the frigate "Constitution," also shot, shell, anchors, and other war materials as well as the iron from which was made the chain stretched across the Hudson at West, Point to bar the British fleet. General Knox was for a time in charge here of casting cannon for the Continental Army. Just after the Revolution these ore beds were thought to be the most important in the country, and Salisbury looked forward to becoming the 'Birmingham of America.' After 1800, however, Pennsylvania came to the front and the Connecticut production rapidly dwindled in significance. THE HOUSA TONIC VALLEY both above and below Canaan clearly shows the different effects of the same stream working on softer and harder rock. "The upper valley, generally called the Berkshire valley, is broadly open along a belt of weak limestones which have wasted away on either side of the hard rocks that enclose them on the east and west ; the lower valley crosses the upland of western Connecticut, a region chiefly composed of resistant crystalline rocks, and here the side slopes are for the most part bold and steep. Indeed, here the rocks are so resistant that the river has not yet been able to cut down all of its channel to a smooth and gentle grade. In its course of fifty-seven miles from Falls Village, where it leaves the limestone belt, to Derby, where it meets tidewater, this strong stream descends 560 feet. It is on account of so great a distance over which the lower Housatonic has to cut its way across hard rocks that its upper course, even on the weak rocks of the Berkshire valley, is still held almost 1000 feet above sea level. "The Berkshire valley is also varied by a number of isolated hills or mountains. Here they consist of resistant schists that stand above the limestone floor. Greylock is the chief of these; for its summit not only rises above the Berkshire valley, but dominates the upland levels on the east and west as well, reaching the greatest altitude of any mountain in Massachu- setts. Smaller and lower residuals are seen south of Pitts- field, where they contribute largely to the attraction of the picturesque district about Stockbridge and Great Barrington. Bear Mountain, in the extreme northwestern part of Con- necticut, the highest summit in the State, may be for our purposes likened to Greylock." WM. MORRIS DAVIS. "From Salisbury to Williamstown and thence to Benning- ton," wrote Henry Ward Beecher, "there stretches a country of valleys and lakes and mountains that is to be as celebrated as the English lake district or the hill country of Palestine." The broad limestone valley extending northward from Salis- 5 I- NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 245 bury and Canaan, Conn., to Pittsfield is a notable topographic feature and a distinctive agricultural region with a rich lime- stone soil. Route 8 leads east to Winsted and Hartford. Alternate route via Under Mountain Road to Great Barring- ton, 17.5 m. From the monument in the fork, bear to the left. The route with yellow markers to the right leads to Canaan. To the left is the Lion's Head, a spur of Mt. Riga. To the east of Chapinville is Grassland Farms, the summer estate of Robert and Herbert Scoville of New York City, famous for its Guern- seys. Near at hand are the twin lakes, Panaheconnok and. Hokonkamok, or Washining and Washinee, the "Laughing Water" and the "Smiling Water." On the shores are many summer camps. North of the lakes rises Babes Hill, east is Miles Mountain and bold Tom's Barack. To the west the summit of Bear Mountain rises sheer 1800 feet above us at a lateral distance of less than one mile from the road. At the State boundary one may turn aside to the left to visit Sage's Ravine. The road (800 ft) runs parallel with the summit line of the Taconic range at a sufficient dis- tance to command a fine perspective. It passes the foot of Mt. Everett (2624 ft), the second highest peak in Massachusetts, the summit of which is less than two miles distant. Locally it is known as The Dome and dominates the country round about. There has here been created a State Reservation of several hundred acres through which run practicable roads. Four miles to the west are the famous Bash Bish Falls, a cascade of fascinating beauty. As the mountain recedes from the road, to the left in a natural amphitheatre is the Berkshire School for Boys (p 800). The road to the right leads to Sheffield. 13.0 SOUTH EGREMONT. Alt 750 ft. Pop (twp) 605 (1910), 599 (1915). Berkshire Co. One of the most serious engagements of Shays' Rebellion took place here. Route 4n (p 233) enters from the left. The route bears right, crossing a small iron bridge, following signs to Great Barrington. In a small park to the right is a Newsboys' Monument. The route crosses the R.R. into Maple Ave., turning into Main St. 17.5 GREAT BARRINGTON (p 247). From Salisbury to Canaan, the main route, a portion of the East and West Connecticut State Trunk Highway running through to Winsted and Hartford, is marked by yellow bands on poles and posts. From Canaan northward, through the Berkshires into Vermont, the route is marked by blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts, except for the short stretch, 246 CANAAN GREAT HARRINGTON Lenox to Pittsfield, which lying on the east and west route from Albany to Boston is marked by red bands. From Salisbury bear right at the monument in the fork, crossing R.R., following the yellow bands on poles and posts, and crossing by a long wooden bridge the Housatonic river. 111.5 CANAAN. Alt 694 ft, R.R. Pop (twp) 702. Litchfield Co. Inc. 1739. Named as the "Promised Land." Mfg. iron and dairy products; marble and lime. Canaan is a rural village and summer resort at the southern gateway of the Berkshires in the valley of the Blackberry river, or Bromfoxit, surrounded by undulating hills. To the south lies the rugged mass of Canaan Mountain, culminating in Bradford Mountain (1927 ft). The Boy Scouts of Canaan have blazed a trail up the mountain, the summit of which commands a splendid view. The first turnpike between Boston and the Hudson passed through Canaan. The Tavern which was erected in 1751 by Capt. I. Lawrence is still standing. Its broad stone doorstep is a memorial to Isaac Lawrence and his family. "At Canaan, before the Tavern," Hawthorne wrote in his notes in 1838, "there is a doorstep two or three paces large in each of its di- mensions; and on this is inscribed the date when the builder of the house came to the town, namely, 1741. . . . Then fol- lows the age and death of the patriarch (at over 90). ... It would seem as if they were buried there; and many people take that idea. It is odd to put a family record on a spot where it is sure to be trampled under foot." On the Blackberry river stands the house (1747) of an iron- master pioneer, Squire Samuel Forbes; it is now the home of Mrs. Mary G. Adam. In the old Douglass place, south of the village, a company of Hessians were housed as prisoners for some days on their way from New York to Boston. North- west of the town is the old Jonathan Gillette house. Note. At Falls Village in the township of Canaan, three miles south, were the railroad repair shops, on the site of the old Ames foundries which produced some of the heaviest fortress cannon during the Revolutionary War. Asaph Hall, astrono- mer, and discoverer of the moons of Mars, has a summer residence here. The great Falls of the Housatonic near the village plunge over rocky ledges for about 60 feet. A $ i ,000,000 hydro-electric plant here furnishes power to Hartford and Bristol. From Canaan, follow blue markers northward across R.R. and over the broadening intervales of the Housatonic to Ashley Falls (114.0). Here we cross the Konkapot river, which comes down from Monterey and the highlands to the east. R. 5 I. NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 247 About a mile or so south of the village center of Sheffield is the site of the old Sheffield Inn mentioned by Holmes in "The Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." At the forks of the road as one comes to the village is an enormous elm tree around which it was the custom for many years to hold memorial exercises. 118.0 SHEFFIELD. Alt 679 ft, R.R. Pop 1817 (1910), 1862 (1915). Berkshire Co. Inc. 1733. Indian name Housatonnuc, "over the mountain." Sheffield is a quiet village with one long elm-shaded main street. The Housatonic valley here is "full of rural simplicity and beauty, richly decorated with lovely valley and majestic mountain scenery." To the west, Mt. Everett, locally called The Dome (2624 ft), rises nobly, dominating the scene. The pleasant Pine Knoll Park with a bit of the primeval pine forest is a public reservation. F. A. P. Barnard, a former President of Columbia College, Rev. Orville Dewey, the wellknown Unitarian clergyman and one of the notables of the Dewey family, and George Root, the composer of "Tramp, Tramp, Tramp, the Boys are March- ing," were natives of this town. Formerly much tobacco was raised in the neighborhood, and the marble quarries in the vicinity were extensively worked. They supplied the marble used in the construction of Girard College in Philadelphia. Today this is a quiet community whose only productiveness is along agricultural lines. Our road follows the winding river valley through some of the loveliest of the Berkshire landscapes. A mile beyond the Great Barrington town line we cross the Green river, cele- brated by Bryant in one of his finest poems. 124.0 GREAT BARRINGTON. Alt 726 ft. Pop 5926 (1910), 6612 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1733. Mfg. paper, cotton yarns, bedspreads, and thermos bottles. Great Barrington is" a thriving residential town and the dis- tributing center for the southern Berkshires. The beautiful region round about has in recent years vied with Lenox and Stockbridge as a fashionable resort. " It is one of those places," said Henry Ward Beecher, "which one never enters without wishing never to leave. It rests beneath the branches of great numbers of the stateliest elms." Near the center of the village, opposite the Berkshire Inn, is Barrington House, a magnificent blue limestone mansion in French Renaissance style, erected by the late Mrs. Edward F. Searles at a cost of well over a million dollars. On the same side of the street is the handsome Congregational Church and the Hopkins Memorial Manse. The church contains an enor- mous organ of 3954 pipes and 60 speaking stops, with an echo 248 GREAT HARRINGTON STOCKBRIDGE organ concealed in the wall and operated by two and a half miles of electric wire. Further north is the Mason Public Library, one of the most attractive pieces of Colonial archi- tecture to be found anywhere. Opposite is the Colonial club house and auditorium of the Thursday Morning Club, a public welfare association of Great Harrington. Behind the Berk- shire Inn is the Henderson house, built by General Dwight, said to be the oldest in the region. At the time of the Revolu- tion it was used as a storehouse for supplies, and here, in 1777, General Burgoyne was lodged when on his way to Boston as a prisoner of war. In 1821 it was the scene of the marriage of William Cullen Bryant to Frances Fairchild of this town. William Cullen Bryant (1794-1878) was the town clerk of Great Barrington from 1815 to 1825, and many of the town records are in his writing. For a year after his marriage the poet occupied the old house on Taylor Hill, 200 yards south of the Henderson house, where many of his poems were in- spired, including "The Death of the Flowers," beginning with the much-quoted "The melancholy days are come, the saddest of the year." He put into verse the Indian legend of Oucan- nawa, the Indian maiden who, forbidden by the laws of her tribe to marry her cousin lover, leaped to her death from a precipice on Monument Mountain. On Berkshire Heights, west of the town, and the adjacent hills, there are numerous fine country estates, which, however, are so concealed by trees that little of them is seen from the road. At Edgewood Farms, the home of the late Dr. Pearson, are being carried on interesting demonstrations to stimulate the interest of surrounding farmers in the agricultural possi- bilities of the land. South from the center of the village is the Sedgwick School, moved here in 1869. About a mile and a half south from the village are the grounds of the Housatonic Agricultural Society, whose annual fair in September is a genuine oldtime country fair. In this same region is the Hallock School, a college preparatory school for boys and also Brookside Farms, the estate of William Hall Walker of New York, notable for the Walled Gardens, upon which over $200,000 have been expended. The Wyantenuck Country Club, with an eighteen-hole golf course, tennis courts, auditorium, and swimming pool, is a mile and a half southwest of the village. A settlement grew up here at the principal ford across the Housa- tonic on the trail from Springfield to Fort Orange near Albany. This followed an earlier Indian trail and was known to the Dutch as The New England Path. Originally known as the upper Housatonic Township, the settlement was after 1743 known as Sheffield North Parish until 1761, when on incorporation it was named in honor of Viscount Barrington. The "Great" was preserved to distinguish it from Barrington, R.I., which, because of the uncertainty of the State R. 5 I. NEW YORK CITY TO PITTSFIELD, MASS. 249 boundaries, was formerly considered as possibly within the limits of Massachusetts. The first trail from the Connecticut valley to Al- bany in Colonial times passed up the valley of the Westfield river through Monterey, Great Barrington, and Stockbridge. This was the course followed by Major Talcott in his pursuit of King Philip's Indians in 1766, and became the route of the military road used through the Revolution, the route over which Burgoyne and his soldiers were taken to Boston. Talcott's skirmish with the Indians is commemo- rated by a monument on Bridge St. near the Searles High School. At the eastern end of the bridge which crossed the Housatonic was an inn, kept by Landlord Root. He was the first man brought to trial in Berkshire County, it being charged that he "did wittingly and willfully suffer and permit singing, fiddling, and dancing in his dwelling house, it being a tavern and a public house." On pleading guilty he was mulcted ten shillings and costs. A Mr. Van Rensselaer, a young gentleman from Albany, rode up one evening to the inn in the pouring rain. The innkeeper, who knew him, asked him where he had crossed the river. He answered, "On the bridge." Mr. Root replied that that was impossible because it had been razed that very day and that not a plank had been laid on it. In the morning Mr. Van Rensselaer went, at the solicitation of his host, to view the bridge; and, finding it a naked frame, gazed for a moment with astonishment, and fainted. The Rev. Samuel Hopkins, the author of a system of divinity known as "Hopkinsian," was dismissed from the pastorate here in 1760 and moved to Newport. Mrs. Stowe made him the hero of her "Min- ister's Wooing." Two roads lead to Stockbridge from Great Barrington, of which the shorter, to the right, climbs through the notch south of Monument Mountain. The main road, with blue markers, however, leads north beside the R.R. to Van Deusenville (127.5). The righthand road here also leads over the pictur- esque notch above mentioned and is often preferred on account of the magnificent view. A mile up this road is the stone house (1771) of Isaac Van Deusen, the Dutch settler. Continuing on the main road we enter the intervale between Monument Mountain (1710 ft) on the right and Tom Ball Mountain (1930 ft) on the left. In the hamlet of Housatonic (128.8) are cotton factories and a hydro-electric power plant with a 28-foot dam and a fall of 46 feet, developing 3000 h.p. The Indian term Housatonic means "beyond the mountain," and was applied to this region by the Hudson River Indians; some authorities support a derivation, "proud river flowing through the rocks." In Glendale (132.5), in Stockbridge township, is the residence and studio of Daniel Chester French, sculptor of the "Concord Minute Man," and "John Harvard," and the bronze doors of the Boston Public Library. 133.6 STOCKBRIDGE. Alt 839 ft. Pop 1933 (1910), 1894 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1734. This idyllic village on the Housatonic meadows with a classic poise in its dignified neatness has been a favorite summer resort of literary and artistic people almost ever since the days 250 STOCKBRIDGE when Jonathan Edwards preached to the "good Indians." To the north it merges socially and scenically into Lenox. At the eastern end of Main St. is Laurel Hill, a park where The Laurel Hill Association was organized in 1853 with the aim of increasing the natural beauty of the village. This was the first Village Improvement Society in the United States, and was organized largely through the efforts of Mrs. John Z. Goodrich. The hill was presented to the town by the Sedg- wick family, and a rostrum has been recently erected there to the memory of Henry D. Sedgwick, one of the founders of the society whose annual meetings are held here. St. Paul's Church, a handsome Norman structure designed by McKim, is richly decorated; the Baptistry is by Saint- Gaudens, the pulpit is Florentine. One of the memorial windows is to the memory of the son of the Hon. J. H. Choate. The bell and the clock were given by M. B. Field and G. P. R. James, the English novelist, resident of Stockbridge for two years. The Red Lion Inn, opposite the church, was opened in 1773, but the present building dates from 1897. The Plumb Collection of Colonial china and pewter is on view here. Further along Main St. on the left is the Sedgwick home- stead, where Catharine Sedgwick was born and where Sedg- wicks still live. The family has always taken a prominent part in local affairs. When Longfellow was visiting Miss Appleton here he was told that the very grasshoppers cry "Sedgwick, Sedgwick, Sedgwick!" The sun-dial on the lawn of the Caldwell estate across the street marks the site of Jonathan Edwards' study, where the great divine wrote "The Freedom of the Will," still acclaimed as the intellectual master- piece of American letters. Aaron Burr, his brilliant grandson, spent much of his boyhood here. The Casino, close by, is one of the centers of social activity for the whole region. In ad- dition to dances, concerts, and the other usual entertainments there is an annual flower show, and also an annual exhibition of paintings and sculpture where all artists living or painting in the Berkshires are privileged to exhibit. On the Green near the Town Hall is the Field Memorial Tower, built by David Dudley Field in memory of his grand- children. It stands on the site of the first meeting house, and the chimes recall the hoarse conch shell used by its Indian worshipers to call the congregation. The Rev. David Dudley Field was one of the noteworthy persons of this region whose children became national figures. Cyrus W. Field was the founder of the Atlantic Cable Company; Stephen J. Field, a Supreme Court Justice; Henry M. Field, a prominent preacher and writer; David D. Field, Jr., an eminent New York jurist; and Jonathan E. Field, an eminent lawyer and War President of the Massachusetts Senate. David Dudley Field lived at Laurel Cottage R. 5 I- NEW YORK CITY TO ITTTSFIELD, MASS. 251 on Main St. and later on Prospect Hill. The Rev. Henry M. Field lived at Windymere, also on Prospect Hill, on the site of the garrison house of Colonel Ephraim Williams of Williams College and Fort Massachusetts (p 408). Joseph H. Choate, Dean of the New York bar and Ex-am- bassador to the Court of St. James, spends a good part of his year on Prospect Hill, on his 'Plantation.' Council Grove, where the Stockbridge Indians held their conclave beneath the great trees, is now the country estate of Charles S. Mellen, former president of the New Haven Railroad, who now describes himself under oath as an "agriculturist," explaining that his is a vertical farm in a notch where a railway may some day run. At the western end of Main St., facing the meeting house by the forks of the road, is the Jonathan Edwards Monument, and just beyond it is the simple monument to the Indians, standing in their ancient burial place. It is a monolith brought from Ice Glen. The Mission House on Prospect Hill on the S. H. Woodward place is the oldest house in Stockbridge. It was built by the colony for John Sergeant, who imparted both religious and industrial instruction to his charges. The Ice Glen is a curious fissure in the hillside at the foot of Laura's Tower, a spur of Bear Mountain. Ice is sometimes found here in midsummer. The Glen is reached by a short walk across the Memorial Bridge over the Housatonic. To the north is Lake Mahkeenac, or Stockbridge Bowl, set in the midst of hills and surrounded by magnificent villas. To the west is Monument Mountain, which in Bryant's words "seems a fragment of some mighty wall, Built by the hand that fashioned the old world. To separate its nations, and throw down When the flood drowned them. To the north a path Conducts you up the narrow battlement. Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild With mossy trees, and pinnacles of flint And many a hanging crag. But, to the east, Sheer to the vale go down the bare old cliffs." The climb up the rough, steep trail is repaid by the mag- nificent view of the Housatonic valley. The name is variously ascribed to a cairn of stones, since overthrown, reared by the Indians in primitive custom to the memory of an Indian maiden whose love for her cousin, forbidden by tribal law, impelled her to leap from the crags, and to the stone profile that looks eastward near the summit. The mountain is com- posed of rough masses of white quartz, one isolated mass being known as The Pulpit. Northwest, at Curtisville, is St. Helen's Home, a fresh-air place for city children, the philanthropic work of Mr. John E. Parsons, late of New York and Lenox. Near here is the small but beautiful Lake Averic. STOCKBRIDGE ADAMS In 1734, after a year at Great Harrington, John Sergeant of Yale commenced preaching to the peaceful Indian tribe in the Stockbridge meadows. So delectable was the land that settlers soon followed Sergeant hither and with laudable forethought planted the great elms that give Main Street an air of distinction superior to almost any other street in New England. The group known as The Owen Elms was planted by Timothy Edwards, son of Jonathan Edwards, in 1786. In 1750 the great Jonathan Edwards, also of Yale, felt constrained to leave his much-loved ministry of twenty-four years at Northamp- ton, owing to the laxity of views in his congregation. Inspired with an earnestness and sincerity rare even in those days, and feeling the blow of parting from his long-loved church, he took refuge in the wilderness here and carried on the mission, devoting his leisure to his famous treatise. In 1758 he was appointed President of Princeton, where he died in the early spring. Although of the most rigorous type of Calvinist, Edwards was not merely a grim personality; his letters in praise of the maid who became his wife are as tender and refreshing as any in our literature, and his life was illuminated through- out by "an inward sweet delight in God," so that he appeared to many not merely as philosopher and theologian but as saint. The school founded by Sergeant for the Indians is probably the first industrial school in the nation. The effects of the mission, un- corrupted by the rum-selling elsewhere customary, were so fruitful in their effect upon the placid tribe that even after the Revolution the natives held positions in the town government side by side with the colonists. They have been known as "the good Indians of Stock- bridge" for one hundred and fifty years. Today the remnant of the tribe, after being settled at Utica, is at Red Springs, Wis. The captive Hessians are supposed by some to have marched through Stockbridge on their way to Boston after Burgoyne's surrender, and echoes of Shays' Rebellion after the Revolution reached its seclusion. Since then it has remained undisturbed. Its literary associations additional to those mentioned above include Mark Hopkins (R. 15), who was born at Cherry Farm, Dr. Charles McBurney's place; Long- fellow, who courted Miss Appleton of Pittsfield here (R. 13), Irving, Dean Stanley, Matthew Arnold, and Hawthorne and Herman Mel- ville, who first became intimate in a thunder-storm on Monument Mountain, which drove them to shelter in a crevice too narrow to permit further shyness. Edward Bellamy, author of "Looking Back- ward," made this region the scene of his novel "The Duke of Stock- bridge," which deals with events at the time of Shays' Rebellion. Industrially Stockbridge early attained significance, which was con- tinued for but a short time. In 1794 a woolen factory operated by waterpower was established here, one of the earliest in the country, for the Federal census of 1800 mentions only three woolen factories in the United States, with a total capacity of 15,000 yards a year. Note. From Stockbridge a State Road leads eastward through South Lee to East Lee (2.5), where it joins Route 13 from Pittsfield to Springfield. Other routes from Stockbridge to Lenox run to the west of Rattlesnake Mountain via the Stockbridge Bowl. The direct route to Lenox, a State Highway, still marked by blue bands on poles and posts, runs directly north to the east of Rattlesnake Hill (1540 ft). On an elevation to the north of Laurel Lake on the right is The Perch, famous as the home of Fanny Kemble. R. 5 2. PITTSFIELD TO WILLIAMSTOWN 253 139.6 LENOX (R. 13). The route from here north to Pittsfield (R. 13) is a portion of the east and west route from Albany to Springfield and con- sequently is marked by red bands on poles and posts. 145.5 PITTSFIELD (R. 13). R. 5 2. Pittsfield via Cheshire to North Adams (22.0 m.) and Williamstown. 27 5 m. This route follows the State Highway, clearly marked, as far as North Adams, by blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. From North Adams to Williamstown it follows the east and west Highway, similarly marked with red bands. An alternate route leads via Lanesboro to Williamstown direct (see next page). Leaving Pittsfield via North St., at the House of Mercy Hospital take the right fork with the trolley on Tyler St. into Dalton Ave. At Coltsville (5.0) turn north upgrade, leaving trolley, with blue markers. The route straight on, yellow markers, leads through Windsor and Cummington to North- ampton and Ashfield (R. id). Berkshire (5.5) is a small hamlet with glass works, the sole survivor of a once prosperous industry. The Berkshire Glass Works started here in 1853 were famous for the making of window glass until the use of natural gas occasioned the re- moval of the industry westward. The route for several miles skirts a reservoir and then fol- lows the narrow valley and the headwaters of the Hoosic river. 10.5 CHESHIRE. Alt 1000 ft. Pop 150S (1910), 1535 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1766. Mfg. lime; glass-sand and iron ore. In 1 80 1 Cheshire Democrats expressed their exultation at Jefferson's election by making the 'Cheshire Cheese,' of 1235 pounds, moulded in a cider press, and hauled to Hudson Ferry by a fabulous number of oxen, whence it was safely forwarded to the new President. A road up Greylock starts on the left at Cheshire Harbor (13.0), a hamlet between Cheshire and Adams. The Pinnacle, a spur of Greylock, looms above the road to the west, and at Adams the dome of Greylock itself stands high at the head of the valley on ihe left; the Chieftain's Stairway, a scar on the mountainside, was made by a cloudburst in 1902. 16.0 ADAMS. Alt 790 ft. Pop (twp) 13,026 (1910), 13,218 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1761. Mfg. cotton, paper, and lime; marble. Named for Samuel Adams. In McKinley Square is a statue of President McKinley, who laid the cornerstone of the Memorial Library facing the statue. 254 ADAMS LANESBORO From the Forest Park Observatory, west of the square, there is a view of the town and its vicinage, with the old Quaker meeting house and graveyard, dating from the Quaker settle- ment that far outnumbered all other denominations in the early days of the town. Susan B. Anthony, pioneer of the woman's suffrage cause, was born here. Her father had taught the district school in the South Village, and Susan at the age of fifteen taught the children of Bowens Corners at her grandfather's homestead for a dollar a week apiece. In the hollows of the Ragged Mountain road are several of the oldest houses in this section, near the marble quarries; and near the river is the Government Trout Hatchery, which supplies the brooks of western Massachusetts with 250,000 fry annu- ally. Here are located the Berkshire Cotton Mills, one of the largest in the country, and the L. L. Brown Paper Company. Adams was originally known as East Hoosuc. On its incorporation in 1788 it was named in honor of Samuel Adams, 'The Father of the Revolution.' Just a century later its overgrown daughter was sepa- rated from it. The road to North Adams follows the trolley, east of the river and the railroad. Hoosac Mountain is on the right, and the Green Mountains ahead. Zylonite (18.3) is a village named from a substitute for celluloid manufactured there. In the meadows is a buried forest, submerged by the lake whose shore line is still traceable on the mountainsides. In Colonial days this section was known as Slab City. 22.0 NORTH ADAMS (R. IS). From North Adams to Williamstown reverse Route 15, marked by red bands on poles and posts, down the valley of the Hoosic. 27.5 WILLIAMSTOWN (R. 15). Alternate Route. Pittsfield to Williamstown, via Lanesboro and New Ashford. 22.0 m. This route, though not adopted as the State Trunk Highway, is chiefly State macadam with no heavy grades. From Pittsfield the route follows North St. past the Maple- wood Hotel on the right and the hospital on the left into Wahconah St. The road skirts Pontoosuc Lake to 5.5 LANESBORO. Alt 1100 ft. Pop 947 (1910), 1087 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1754. Lanesboro is still a rural village, contrasting with the trim urbanity of Lenox and Stockbridge. Originally called New Framingham, it was afterward named as a compliment to the beautiful Irish Countess of Lanesborough. R. 5 2. PITTSFIELD TO WILLIAMSTOWN 255 Near the entrance to the village on the right is the cemetery, and from the highway is seen opposite the gate; on a rise of ground, a granite boulder with the inscription, "Josh Billings." This is the grave of Henry W. Shaw (b. 1818), who under his pen name was as familiar to past generations as ' Mr. Dooley' is today. He literally rode into popularity by his "Essa on the Muel," and he won a secure position and a comfortable com- petency by his adherence to his pet saying, "Tu sta is tu win. A man can outliv a not hoal." This appeared in a comic almanac which ran to 170,000 copies and made his fortune. Half a mile further up the street on the right is the com- fortable building with the broad, double-columned stoop, now the Hillcrest Inn, which was his ancestral home. Here his father, Henry Shaw, was visited by the statesman Henry Clay. On Constitution Hill, to the west of the village, overlooking Pontoosuc Lake, was the home of Jonathan Smith for whom the hill was named. It was largely due to the speech that Smith made before the State Conference that the Federal Con- stitution was adopted. A boulder at the crossroads bears this inscription : "In memory of Jonathan Smith A plain farmer of Lanesborough who by a speech full of good sense and good feeling carried the Massachusetts convention September 1787 February 1788 by a vote of 187 to 168 in favor of ratifying The Federal Constitution. "1 have lived in a part of the country where I have known the worth of good government by the want of it. ... I had been a member of the convention to form our own State Constitution, and had learned something of the checks and balances of power; and I found them all here. . . . Take things in time. Gather fruit when it is ripe ... we sowed our seed when we sent men to the Federal Convention: now is the harvest, now is the time to reap the fruit of our labor." The first settlers chose this site because well away from the Indian trails, but nevertheless the town was destroyed in 1766 during King Philip's War, but soon after rebuilt. The glass works of Lanesboro and Lenox Furnace were once famous. They derived their material from the snow-white quartz which is found in masses in the ledges about here and is now shipped to Pittsburgh and other glass centers. Beyond the village the route keeps to the left of the fork, following the Williamstown sign. The route ascends the valley of a little stream and at New Ashford (14.0) crosses the divide and begins the descent of a tributary of the Green river. As we emerge into the broader valley of the main stream the scene that discloses itself is one of singular beauty. On the right towers Grey lock (3500 ft), which Holmes poetically called "the highest wave of the great land storm of all this 256 LANESBORO BENN1NGTON billowing region," and which Frances Ann Kemble has com- memorated in the following lines: " Greylock, cloud-girdled, from his purple throne, A voice of welcome sends, And from green sunny fields, a warbling tone The Housatonic blends." To the left is the long, beautiful line of the Taconic range, while before one stretches the broad valley of Williamstown until it meets the first swell of the Green Mountains, around whose base winds the Hoosic on its way to join the Hudson. 16.5 SOUTH WILLIAMSTOWN. Alt 1000 ft. This quiet hamlet is superbly situated in the lower Green river valley, where it broadens into the valley of the Hoosic. To the east of the village, Hopper Brook is a natural amphi- theater, known as the Hopper, formed by the combined action of frost and stream. The southern wall of the valley is known as Stony Ledge, or the 'Bald Pate' of the Lion Couchant, as Professor Albert Hopkins loved to call it. The northern side is formed by Simonds Peak of Prospect Mountain. In the upper part of the valley, sometimes called the Inner Hopper, lingers a legend of counterfeiters of Revolutionary days. Here are the Wawbeek and Sky Falls, probably the highest per- manent cascades in the State. Of them Professor Hopkins wrote: "The falls are in a dell so deep and lonely, that to most persons they are destined to remain among the myths of Greylock. Only those who have beheld the Notch and the Inner Hopper, or Hopper within the Hopper, are able to ap- preciate the tremendous powers that have nearly overthrown the Chieftain Greylock himself." The Camping Ground, near the head of Bacon Brook in the southern branch of the valley, is the site of the annual camp of the Alpine Club of Williams, founded by Professor Hopkins in 1863, the first of its kind in this country. Cloudbursts have scarred the sides of the valleys with land- slides; the air currents above the Hopper also produce strange phenomena, not only blasts of sound, like that of the famous Bellowspipe above North Adams, but also freakish drafts which suck kites and even balloonists down into the Hopper from the mountain heights. The farmers foretell the weather by the degree of mistiness in the Hopper of a morning, the clearer its outlines the better the weather, they say. 22 JO WILLIAMSTOWN (R. IS). R. 5 3- WILLIAMSTOWN TO MANCHESTER 257 R. 5 3. Williamstown to Manchester. 36.5 m. This route through Bennington to Manchester offers scenic attractions of the first order. From Williamstown the Massa- chusetts State Highway is clearly indicated by blue markers to the State Line. Through Vermont this route follows a trunk line State Road with a gravel surface. At each township boundary the names of the towns are indicated by sign posts erected by the State Highway Commission. The route leaves Williamstown by North St., taking the right fork at the foot of the hill, one half mile beyond crossing the Hoosic river, then passing under R.R. and along the north bank of the river above the picturesque intervales of Pownal Pass, with The Dome (2754 ft) on the right, following the route taken by George Washington on his visit to Benning- ton in 1790 to consult on Vermont's admission to the Union. Two and one half miles from Williamstown we cross the State line into Vermont. 4.8 POWNAL (R. 15). Bearing to the right upon entering Pownal and then taking the middle road at the triple fork the route leaves the valley of the Hoosic and climbs round the side of Mann Hill into Pownal Center (7.3), a crossroads village, and continues straight down the Jewett Brook valley with Carpenter Hill and maple-covered Mt. Anthony (2345 ft) on the left. Mt. Anthony is in Colgate's Park, through which there is a good road. It was named from the chapel- of St. Anthony, built somewhere at its foot by the fur-traders and Jesuits who came up the Walloomsac valley from Albany in 1 540. In the north- eastern face there is a cave reached through a crevice. 13.5 BENNINGTON. Alt 682 ft. Pop 6211. County-seat of Ben- nington Co. Settled 1761. Mfg. knit goods, collars and cuffs, woolens, paper, machinery, optical specialties. Bennington is picturesquely located on the Walloomsac river between Bald Mountain (2865 ft) to the east and Mt. Anthony to the west. It is a favorite summering place with broad shady streets and historic sites to increase its charm as well as the honor of supplying scenes for Owen Wister's novel "The Virginian." With native Vermont acumen the towns- people have also encouraged the growth of a surprising number of diversified industries, some of them more than a century old. Its name honors the memory of Governor Benning Wentworth of New Hampshire, who granted this land. In Bennington Center, one mile west of Bennington, at the corner of Main St. and the Parade, is the bronze figure of a catamount on a granite pedestal, facing toward New York 258 BENNINGTON State. The site of the Catamount Tavern, built in 1766 and burned in 1871, is fifty feet from it. The sign was a stuffed catamount hung at the inn door as a hint to New Yorkers of the fate that would overtake them if they persisted in their attempts to seize Bennington lands. The climax followed in a skirmish or two in 1771-75. The Councils of Safety held by the Green Mountain Boys under Ethan Allen often met in this tavern (1767-91), and General Stark's Council assem- bled here on the eve of Bennington Battle. Next door was Ethan Allen's house, whither he returned with military honors after his imprisonment in England, 1775-78. On an adjacent corner is the Walloomsac Inn, built in 1764, the oldest hostelry now open in Vermont. The builder and first landlord was the eldest son of Parson Dewey, first minister of the Old First Church, which still stands east of the inn and is the oldest in the State. The cemetery contains early graves with cherub-sculptured tombstones and curious epitaphs. West of the Walloomsac Inn on Mt. Anthony Road is the mansion built in 1792 by Isaac Tichenor, one of the first U.S. Senators, and Governor of Vermont, nicknamed the 'Jersey Slick' in reference to his ready eloquence and New Jersey birth. At the head of the Parade is the homestead of General David Robinson, which has remained in the family ever since its erection in 1796. It contains one of the finest collections of antiques in the State, including General Robinson's sword and hat and Colonel Baum's sword and camp-kettle. A granite boulder on Monument Ave. shows the site of William Lloyd Garrison's newspaper office, where the famous abolitionist edited "The Journal of the Times" in 1828. Bennington Battle Monument, the highest battle memorial in the world, is constructed of blue-gray dolomite, 37 feet square at the base and over 306 feet high, surmounted by a rod with a ten-pointed star 3 feet in diameter. Within are trophies, including Burgoyne's camp-kettle. The monument is open daily, and is ascended by a staircase with broad sloping treads similar to Michelangelo's stairway in the Farnese Palace at Rome. The outlook room is 8 feet square and 200 feet above the ground. Near its base is a stone marking the site of the storehouse which the British troops sought to seize. The battle ground is eight miles west on the road to Old Cambridge and Troy, N.Y. (R. 15). North of the Battle Monument on the road to Manchester is the Vermont Soldiers' Home. In its grounds is the highest natural single jet fountain known, registered by survey 196 feet. It is supplied from Bald Mountain, and was built by Seth B. Hunt. 5 3- WILLIAMSTOWN TO MANCHESTER 259 The Mt. Anthony Golf Club is a mile north of the Center, near the monument. Fishing is good in several streams here- abouts, owing to the activity of the Bennington County Forest, "FOR GOD AND COUNTRY" THE OLD FERST CHURCH AND BATTLE MONUMENT, BENNINGTON Fish, and Game Association, which stocks the streams annually with hundreds of thousands of trout and perch, and provides public camps at some of the best fishing centers. The Long Trail, Vermont's vaunted pedestrian path laid 260 BENNINGTON ARLINGTON out by the Green Mountain Club along the crests of the Green Mountains, begins here. At present the Trail has been completed between the Massachusetts line and Prospect Reck opposite the village of Manchester, between Killington Peak and Lincoln Mountain east of the village of Bristol, and between Camels Hump and the village of Johnson in the Lamoille Valley; arrows as well as 'blazes' mark the way at doubtful situations, and some shelter camps are provided. When finished there will be a well-marked path from the Massachusetts line near Bennington to the Canadian line near Jay Peak, North Troy, with continuations southward, it is hoped, through the Berkshires and the Litchfield Hills to the Hudson Highlands, as well as northward into the Notre Dame Mountains of Canada. Bennington's founders were veterans of the French and Indian War. The town was typical of Governor Benning Wentworth's New Hamp- shire grants with proviso that each settler develop his land, build a regulation house, and help build the meeting house, schools, mills, bridges, and roads. From 1771 to 1775 Bennington made armed resistance against New York's endeavor to claim territory. The battle of Bennington (Aug. 6, 1777) was the turning point of the Revolution. It led directly to Burgoyne's defeat, which was followed by the recognition of the United States by France and other European countries. The object of the British forces, 600 Hessians and British with 150 Indians, under Colonels Baum and Breyman, was the seizure of the Colonial stores and provisions at Bennington. They entrenched on the heights in Hoosick, N.Y., north of the Walloomsac on the Bennington-Old Cambridge road, eight miles west of the monument. Brigades of patriots mobilized at Manchester, Vt., and at Bennington, and marched upon the enemy. Three bands of 300 each were sent by General John Stark of New Hampshire to attack the British rear and both flanks; the remaining 700 under Stark attacked the front. The British were forced to retreat with a loss of 207 killed, including Baum, 658 prisoners, and four brass field pieces; the Americans, although fighting in their shirtsleeves, ill- armed, and in many cases barefoot, lost but 40 killed and 30 wounded. ' Gentleman Johnny ' Burgoyne later declared that this defeat marked the beginning of his downfall. The "fighting parson," Thomas Allen of Pittsfield, cousin of Ethan Allen, joined General Stark before dawn on the day of battle. It was dark and rainy, but Stark assured the parson, "If the Lord once more gives us sunshine, and I don't give you fighting enough, I'll never ask you to turn out again." As he led his men into position Stark cried, "There are the red- coats and they are ours or this night Molly Stark sleeps a widow!" In 1775 the first iron forge in America for making nails was opened on Mill St., and in 1811 the Doty Cotton Mill was running on the site of the E. Z. Waist factory, and woolen mills were also in operation. Today these industries appear in the manufacture of knit goods by the Cooper Manufacturing Company, H. E. Bradford & Co., and others. The Holden & Leonard Company manufacture cloaks and suitings. Deposits of white clay and ocher are found in the township. The route turns north from Main St. at Bennington Center, passing the Battle Monument and the Mt. Anthony Golf Club. R. 5 3- WILLIAMSTOWN TO MANCHESTER 261 and crossing the river by an old covered bridge. The road then climbs 200 feet in the next half mile and continues north- ward, leaving North Bennington in the valley to the west. Crossing the Bennington town line the road leads, a mile further, into 78.5 SOUTH SHAFTSBURY. Alt 711 ft. Pop (twp) 1650. Ben- nington Co. Settled 1763. Named for Earls of Shaftsbury. Mfg. squares and brush handles. The Eagle Square Manufacturing Company perpetuates the business founded about 1812 by Silas Hawes, the inventor of the steel square, and here is also one of the largest brush-handle factories in the country. This was something of a Tory hotbed at the outbreak of the Revo- lution. One of the parsons was admonished by two hundred lashes of the "Twigs of the Wilderness" to cease preaching against the patriots. In 1805 slavery in Vermont received its death blow when a Shaftsbury slave owner was ordered by Judge Theophilus Harrington to show a "Bill of Sale for his slaves from the Almighty God." The road leads on uphill through the village of Shaftsbury Center (22.0). To the left at the foot of West Mountain (2022 ft) are evidences of ancient sea beach; on the right are Hale and Trumbull Mountains. The fishing in the streams here is very good. After crossing a ridge and the town line the route descends the Warm Brook valley, crossing and recrossing the Rutland R.R. Spruce Peak (3060 ft) and The Ball (2715 ft) rise on the left. 28.5 ARLINGTON Alt 689 ft. Pop (twp) 1307. Bennington Co. Settled 1763 Mfg. chairs, refrigerators, and wooden articles. The Vermont State Seal was designed from a sketch of the westward view from Governor Chittenden's house. The gorge of the Battenkill river to the west between The Ball and Red Mountain (2869 ft) permits the summer sun to light the town for an hour after it has set north and south of this gap. Ethan Allen, the Vermont pioneer, and leader of the Green Mountain Boys, lived here for several years, collaborating with Dr. Young on an agnostic "Oracle of Man," much akin to Tom Paine's "Age of Reason," which soon after appeared. A mile and a half beyond Arlington the road forks to the left, crossing the Battenkill, which is said to be one of the best trout streams in the East. The route then passes the line of Sunderland township and, two miles beyond, that of Man- chester. The road runs along the loamy slopes of Equinox Mountain (3816 ft) overlooking the fertile intervales and farms. To the right is the home of Robert T. Lincoln, former president of the Pullman Company. Close by is the Ekwanok Country Club, whose famous links have done much to make Manchester a summer halting place. To the left is the 262 ARLINGTON RUTLAND Equinox House, an immense club of a hotel, on the flanks of the mountain, owned by the same family for a century and more. Mrs. Abraham Lincoln and Mrs. U. S. Grant summered here years ago. A good road leads past the hotel and the crowded trout pond to the summit of the mountain. On its southern slope is Skinner's Hollow, a defile through which a mysterious stream disappears without visible outlet; nearby is a thirty-five-ton rocking stone. From the crest there is a view that extends from Greylock and the Catskills to Monad- nock and the White Mountains, including also Lake George, Lake Champlain, and the Adirondacks. The name of Equinox is apparently derived from the Indian " ekwanok" rather than from any climatic considerations. 36.S MANCHESTER. Alt 694 ft. Pop (twp) 2044. Half shire town of Bennington Co. The village is one of New England's favorite summer resorts, on a plateau 1000 feet high. Its sidewalks of white marble add an air of individuality to its broad main street. As a half shire town it alternates with Bennington in sessions of the county court. There are many summer villas and residences. Route 19 from Providence, Worcester, and Brattleboro to Fort Ticonderoga, and Route 43 from Claremont to Saratoga, pass through the village. R. 5 4. Manchester to Rutland. 34.5 m. From Manchester the route follows the short cut down Otter Creek through the marble quarry region. The route leaves Manchester by the right fork at the Library, and the middle road at Manchester Center (0.5), leaving the Mettawee valley on the left. The road follows the Rutland R.R. across the town line and through the hamlets of East and North Dorset. The local white marble with faint green- ish and brownish lines was used for building the Harvard Medical School, the New York Public Library, and the U.S. Senate Office. These quarries were first opened in 1785. Edwin Lefevre is one of a group of summer residents here. To the west is Mt. ^Eolus (3436 ft), in whose eastern side there is a series of caves with stalactites. Continuing northward the road crosses into Rutland county and Mt. Tabor township between the steep ridges of Green Peak and Netop on the left and Peru and Mt. Tabor on the right. It bears left across the Danby line into the village of 13.5 DANBY. Alt 673 ft. Pop (twp) 1001. Rutland Co. Settled 1765. Mfg. marble, lumber, and maple sugar. This is an important maple sugar section. There are several R. 5 S RUTLAND TO BURLINGTON 263 streams that abound in trout, and the limestone hills contain several caverns to tempt the venturesome explorer. The route continues down the valley across the Wallingford line through South Wallingford (18.5) into 23.5 WALLINGFORD. Alt 576 ft. Pop (twp) 1719. Rutland Co. Settled 1770. Mfg. agricultural implements. The White Rocks (marble cliffs to the east), Crystal Falls (on a small stream south of the village) , and The Eyrie and The Ice Beds (craggy glens in the eastward mountains) are of in- terest to leisurely travelers. At the northern end of the village the route turns left across R.R. and the river and then bears right, crossing the town- ship of Clarendon. Two miles beyond the Clarendon-Rutland town line and at the fork in the road just outside Rutland the route turns right on River St. and crosses river and R.R. into 34.5 RUTLAND. Alt 562 ft. Pop 13,546. County -seat of Rutland Co. Settled 1769. "The Marble City." Mfg. marble, machinery, scales, dairy utensils, clay and asbestos products, and brooms. Rutland, in the heart of the largest marble region in the world, is the second city in the State. It is a manufacturing center with a diversity of industries. The Vermont Marble Company, employing 4000 men, the Howe Scale Works, em- ploying 650 men, and the F. R. Patch Manufacturing Com- pany, brass founders, are leading firms. There are golf links at the Rutland Country Club, and trout streams in the nearby hills. Killington Peak (4241 ft), to the east, is a starting point of a section of the Green Mountain Trail (p 259). Rutland was an outpost in the Revolution, with a blockhouse called Fort Ranger on the military road from Crown Point to the Connecticut river (see Springfield, Vt., R. 10). From 1784 to 1804 the city was one of the capitals of the State, and the gambrel-roofed State House on West St. is one of the oldest buildings in Vermont, erected 1784. The Rutland "Herald" founded as a weekly in 1794, is still published. The marble quarried in this region is mostly of the white variety, harder but less lustrous than the celebrated Carrara stone from Italy. This is used for building; the darker shades in blue, green, yellow, and pink are employed for ornamental purposes. Three quarters of the American marble is quarried in Rutland County. Route 33, from Boston and Bellows Falls, and Route 44, from White River Junction and Woodstock to Lake George, meet here. R. 5 5. Rutland to Burlington. 69.0 m. This route follows the valley of Otter Creek through rolling country from the Green Mountains to Lake Champlain and Burlington. The road is a trunk line State Highway, mostly good gravel with stretches of macadam, and no heavy grades. 264 RUTLAND SALISBURY Leaving Rutland by Main St., the route takes the left fork two miles out of town, crossing East Creek, which flows down from Blue Ridge Mountain (3293 ft), through the village of Mendon. On the left behind Pine Hill (1445 ft) is the town of PKOCTOR (pop 2756), named for the late Senator, first suc- cessful organizer of the marble 'industry on a large scale. This town boasts the largest single marble quarry and the greatest marble-working plant on earth, belonging to the Vermont Marble Company. Power is obtained from the 1 23-foot drop of Sutherland Falls. At the end of the road in Pittsford Mills (7.7) the route turns right and then left at once, entering 8.3 PITTSFORD. Alt 525 ft. Pop (twp) 2479. Settled 1769. Marble and marble workers' tools are the main products, and asbestos and talc are found here. The town is one of several named in honor of William Pitt, the English statesman, and at the same time commemorates the Indian ford. There is a deep ice-cave in the eastern section of the town- ship. The Vermont State Sanatorium for the treatment of incipient tuberculosis is the gift of the late Senator Redfield Proctor, founder of the Vermont Marble Company. Stone workers were especially liable to this disease until recently, when methods were devised to keep the stone dust from the lungs. The highway leads through Pittsford, and bears left at all forks. Otter Creek and the R.R. are about a mile to the left, and Chaffee Mountain (2506 ft) lifts its rounded summits on the right. Passing the Soldiers' Monument on the out- skirts of Brandon on the right, the route turns left at the end of the street, then right, taking the left fork in the center of the town, and the right on Grove St. at the Stephen A. Douglas Monument. 15.8 BRANDON. Alt 416 ft. Pop 1608. Rutland Co. Settled 1772. Mfg. marble, mineral paints, fireplaces, and butter-tubs. The double row of shade trees on Park St. is the chief adorn- ment of this pleasant Colonial village. Stephen A. Douglas, Lincoln's oratorical opponent for Congress, Charles Dana, the builder of the Erie Railroad, and Frank H. Knowlton, the botanist, were born here, and another resident was Thomas Davenport, the inventor of the electric motor, who first ap- plied electricity to the operation of railways and printing presses. Deposits of manganese, magnetic iron, kaolin, yellow ocher, slate, fossil wood, and onyx are found here. Morgan horses and Ayrshire cattle are bred in the rich meadows of the inter- vales of the Neshobe river and Otter Creek. Owing to the mineral resources, crops, and lumber, Sir Charles Lyell, the great English geologist, said, "I have yet to see, either in R. 5 5- RUTLAND TO BURLINGTON 265 Europe or America, a spot containing such a variety of unique and valuable substances placed by nature in juxtaposition." There are two caverns and an ice-well a mile and a half east of the village. To the east, Mt. Horrid is crossed by the Long Trail. Eight miles to the west is Sudbury, in the lake district of Vermont. The Crown Point military road is indi- cated by markers. The road leads straight across the Addison County line, Leicester township, and Leicester hamlet (21.5) to Salisbury through a more open country, with the swamps and meadows of Otter Creek on the left, where the hills give way. On the right is a long ridge at the foot of which nestles Fernville, on the edge of Fern Lake, a diminutive likeness of Lake Dunmore. Note. Just beyond the Leicester-Salisbury town line, at the three corners, a detour leads by the righthand road to Lake Dunmore, four miles long and one mile wide, said to have been christened by Lord Dunmore with a libation of wine in Colonial days. A good road has been made round the edge to the further side. The Liana Falls, a series of beautiful cas- cades, lead the waters of Silver Lake, 670 feet above Lake Dunmore, down to the point opposite the hotel on the lake- side. A half mile north, near the road, is Ethan Allen's Cave, marked by an inscription, where the leader of the Green Mountain Boys, with twenty of his followers, is said to have stood off a regiment of the enemy. Another cavern, possibly used by the hero, has been recently discovered in a nearby cliff. Rattlesnake Point (1900 ft), once an Indian lookout, is a spur of Mt. Moosalamoo (2659 ft), which rises behind it to the northeast. Waramaug Wigwam, one of A. S. Gregg Clarke's Keewaydin camps, is situated beside the lake shore. Continuing round the foot of Sunset Hill, the detour takes the left fork three quarters of a mile beyond the hotel, and rejoins the main highway a mile and a half beyond. Just beyond the branch road to Lake Dunmore, the route takes the left fork in 23.0 SALISBURY. Alt 440 ft. Pop (twp) 693. Addison Co. Settled 1774. Named for Salisbury, Conn. Alluvial deposits along the river and the clay and sand loams of the slopes have made farming the principal industry, with some lumbering in the woodland tracts. A monument erected by the Vermont Society of Colonial Dames marks the site of the farm of Ann Story, whose home was used by the Green Mountain Boys as a refuge. This is on the estate of the late Columbus Smith, whose large fortune, made by tracing old English estates to American heirs, was bequeathed for the sup- port of elderly people on this property. 266 SALISBURY VERGENNES Three miles from the village the Lake Dunmore road joins the highway from the right, with Mt. Bryant (1120 ft) paral- leling the route in a long ridge. A landmark to the north is the spire of the Mead Memorial Chapel of Middlebury College. Note. To the west is the scattered village of West Salisbury, and on the far side of Cedar Swamp the town of Cornwall, whose rich grass has made it rather noted for fine merino sheep. The Rev. Henry N. Hudson, the Shakespearean scholar, was a native of the town. The Samson Memorial, a D.A.R. chapter house (1915), con- tains the town library. Near the church is a Soldiers' Monument with the eloquent inscription, "Cornwall remembers." Joseph R. Andrus, a young Cornwall clergyman, led an ill-fated expedition of negroes to Africa for the American Colonization Society, and became the first American martyr to the anti-slavery cause. The cave in the river bank in which the Widow Story and her children took refuge has been marked by the D.A.R. After crossing the town line of Middlebury and the boister- ous little Middlebury river, the road bears to the left, leaving East Middlebury half a mile up the righthand road, to Bread Loaf. Following the left fork, a half mile beyond, it soon enters 33.3 MIDDLEBURY. Alt 366 ft. Pop (twp) 1866. County-seat of Addison Co. Settled 1766. Mfg. marble, lime, wood-pulp, window sashes, and doors. The village is chiefly notable as the home of Middlebury Col- lege, established 1800, one of the smaller New England insti- tutions of learning. The drive through the college grounds from the South St. entrance to Porter Athletic Field to Pearsons Hall is nearly a mile. From the latter is a good view of both Green Mountains and Adirondacks. Recent growth has caused the erection of several new buildings, among which the Mead Memorial Chapel and the Starr Library are architectur- ally noteworthy. The chapel, given by Ex-governor Mead of Rutland, is of Vermont marble, in the New England meeting house style, with a portico of six massive marble columns; the graceful spire contains a chime of bells. A large dormitory and commons for men, the gift of A. Barton Hepburn of New York City, is now building. Painter Hall, the oldest college building in Vermont, is a good example of early New England college architecture. The Sheldon Art Museum has a good collection of local an- tiquities. The grounds of the Addison County Agricultural Society are extensive and the buildings good. Middlebury contains a number of fine old Colonial residences, shaded by large elms. One of the best is opposite the hand- some Congregational Church, erected by Horatio Seymour, an early U.S. Senator from Vermont. Another, opposite the High School, was the birthplace of Edward J. Phelps, U.S. Minister to England under President Cleveland. The mansion R. 5 5- RUTLAND TO BURLINGTON 267 of Gamaliel Painter, principal founder of the village, is still standing opposite the Court House. From the stone bridge over the Otter is a good view of Middlebury Falls, one of the largest on the stream. From Middlebury the lefthand road leads to Chimney Point and thence to Point Henry, N.Y. (16.0), crossing Lake Champlain by ferry (automobile 65 cts, passengers 15 cts). Inventive genius has flourished here, though with but slight financial profit, producing a circular saw, a wool-picking machine, and methods of welding cast steel and of sawing marble and of making window sashes. Emma Willard, a pioneer in woman's higher education, estab- lished here her famous school, later moved to Troy, N.Y. It was from the scenery and historical traditions about Middlebury that Daniel P. Thompson, when a student in Middlebury College, drew his information and inspiration for the classic Vermont story, "The Green Mountain Boys." Bread Loaf Mountain (3900 ft) is reached by the road up the gorge of Middlebury River, and is highly praised for its scenery. Bread Loaf Inn is near the summit of the pass over the Green Mountains, nine miles from Middlebury. The late Joseph Battell, once the largest individual land owner in Vermont, left Bread Loaf Inn and Mountain and 20,000 acres of forest land to Middlebury College, and Camels Hump to the State. He also did much to recover the all but lost strain of the Morgan horse. Turning to the left on Washington St. and then to the right on Pleasant St., the route climbs part way up Chipman Hill, a shapely kame, from the top of which there is an extensive view of the Green Mountain range and the Adirondacks, in- cluding Mt. Marcy (5304 ft). The road dips through the hamlet of Brooksville (37.5) to cross the New Haven river. A mile and a half northwest from Middlebury village, in the town of Weybridge, is the U.S. horse breeding farm, with about seventy horses, including eight or more of the finest Morgan stallions. The farm is the gift of the late Joseph Battell. To the left of the crossroads, one mile and a half beyond Brooks- ville, is the Spring Grove Camp Ground, where Methodist camp-meetings are held in July and August. The route con- tinues straight on, following the left fork, one mile further, and crossing R.R. at New Haven Junction. Five and a half miles to the east is Bristol, in the mouth of the New Haven Notch, a gap between South Mountain (2307 ft) and Hogback Mountain (2290 ft), the principal summit of the lengthy Hogback Ridge. Lincoln Mountain (4078 ft) rears its three peaks against the skyline. Bearing left at the fork one mile beyond the Junction the highway gradually swings round westward to 46.0 VERGENNES. Alt 176 ft. Pop 1483. Addison Co. Settled 1766. Mfg. lumber, flour, screw machine products, and shade rollers. This is one of the smallest as well as one of the oldest cities in the nation. It is situated on Otter Creek at the head of 268 VERGENNES BURLINGTON navigation, on a "patch clipped from the adjoining towns." The falls of the river here total 37 feet, providing power for this city and for Burlington. It was named, through Ethan Allen's influence, in honor of the statesman Count Vergennes, as a compliment to France, the friend of the strug- gling republic. Basin Harbor, eight miles west on Lake Cham- plain, is a popular summer resort. At the mouth of Otter Creek are the ruins of Fort (^assin, which was erected to protect the building of Commodore Mac- donough's fleet in 1814. Forty days from the time that the trees were standing in the forests they were launched on Lake Champlain in the form of the "Saratoga," the Commodore's flagship. Meanwhile the soldiers at Fort Cassin had stood off the enemy, and a few months later, on Sept. n, 1814, Mac- donough defeated the enemy conclusively off Plattsburg. "This little peninsula ... is now classic in geologic literature from the number and character of the fossils found in the rocky deposits." Leaving by Main St., the road crosses the city line and keeps to the left at the fork one mile and a quarter outside the city and passes through Ferrisburg (49.0), the home of Rowland Robinson, one of the best writers in the old Vermont dialect. The country is open and tillable, and a quarry of black marble lies in the northeast part of the township. The route takes the right fork one mile beyond the village and continues straight through the crossroads, leaving North Ferrisburg on the right. Half a mile beyond is the line between Addison and Chittenden Counties, formerly the boundary between Canada and New York. Upon the point across the lake is Split Rock, the ancient bounds marker separating the Mohawks and the Algonquins. A mile to the east is Mt. Philo (1017 ft), formerly an Indian signal station and now a popular resort, with a road to the summit and a fifty-foot observation tower, from which there is a grand view of Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and the Green Mountains. Swinging to the right (57.0), between Pease Mountain and Jones Hill, the highway runs through a corner of the straggling hamlet of Charlotte and turns left up the slight ascent of Mutton Hill. Camels Hump (4088 ft) comes into sight in the east. The lefthand road at this point leads to the McNeil ferry, crossing Lake Champlain to Essex, N.Y. (7.0). Note. To the west is the town of Charlotte, the site of Horsford's Nurseries, famous for hardy plants. This is one of the finest apple regions to be found. In flavor as well as in size the fruit raised in this valley wins medals and prizes R. 5 5. RUTLAND TO BURLINGTON 269 wherever it goes. One orchard of 100 acres, that of Mr. C. T. Holmes, in a recent year produced 6000 barrels which sold for more than $20,000. 62.0 SHELBURNE. Alt 159 ft. Pop (twp) 1097. Settled 1768. Shelburne Farms, Dr. W. Seward Webb's handsome estate, west of the village, on the lake shore, is open to visitors. Byron S. Hurlbut, Dean of Harvard College, is a native of the town. The macadam road leads across the Laplatte river and along the lake shore past several summer residences. The richness of the countryside is evidenced by the dairy farms and market gardens. Two miles beyond the South Burlington line is Queen City Park (66.5), a summer settlement, to the west of which is Red Rocks, a 75-acre park of great beauty on a high, wooded bluff overlooking the lake. By the kindness of its owner, Mr. E. P. Hatch, it is open to the public, but automobiles are excluded. The Rocks are an outcrop of red sandrock such as is frequent on this shore of the lake. On the right are the links of the Waubanakee Golf Club. 69.0 BURLINGTON. Alt 208 ft (City Hall). Pop 20,468; of which one fifth is foreign-born. County -seat of Chittenden Co. Settled 1774. "The Queen City of Vermont." Port of Entry, on Lake Champlain and the Winooski river. Mfg. planing and wood-working products, cotton and woolen goods, package dyes, patent medicines, and maple syrup and sugar. Capital, $6,460,000; Payroll, $1,337,000. Steamers daily, in season, to lake ports. Burlington is happily situated on a hillside overlooking Champlain and the Adirondacks to the west and Mt. Mansfield and Camels Hump in the Green Mountains to the east. The largest city and manufacturing center in the State, it is likewise a wholesale distributing point and one of the chief markets for Canadian lumber. The Winooski river supplies waterpower. The Champlain Canal, connecting with the Hudson, and the Chambly Canal, with the St. Lawrence, provide water car- riage for freight from both the north and south. Burlington is the home of the University of Vermont and State Agri- cultural College. The most popular sports are ice-boating and yachting. The temperate climate in the summer attracts many visitors. It is one of the cleanest and best kept cities in the country. In City Hall Park at the corner of Main and St. Paul Sts. is the City Hall, and diagonally opposite on Church St. are the Post Office, the County Court House, and the State Laboratory of Hygiene. At the foot of College St. is the $20,000 club house of the Lake Champlain Yacht Club, the most important on the lake. Two blocks north, at the corner of St. Paul and Bank Sts., is St. Paul's Church. At the next 270 BURLINGTON corner, St. Paul and Cherry Sts., is the Roman Catholic Cathedral. At the foot of Pearl St., one block further north, is the Battery Park, from which there is an excellent view of the industrial section of the city, as well as of the harbor and the western shore. It consists of nine acres on a high bluff, bought by the U.S. government in 1812 and used as a camp- ground. Some 10,000 soldiers and a battery of thirteen guns were stationed there. A tablet on a boulder near the southern entrance commemorates the repulse of the British attack, June 13, 1813. Owing to the successive British defeats on Lake Champlain, of which this was not the least important, it is said that Lake Champlain surpasses in historic importance any other body of water in the western hemisphere. A mile down the harbor is the low-lying islet Rock Dunder, an Indian boundary mark separating the Six Nations from the Algonquins and Canadians. Legend has it that a pot-valiant Dutch commander mistook it for a French sloop-of-war and blazed away at it for some hours, and on discovering his error exclaimed, "It's a rock, by dunder!" Nos. 21 and 25 Pearl St. were officers' quarters in the War of 1812, and No. 21 was later the home of Mrs. Louisa Heyde, sister of the poet Walt Whitman. On the northeast corner of Pearl St. and Elmwood Ave. is the Unitarian Church (1816). At the head of Pearl St. by the College Green is No. 2 Col- chester Ave., the oldest wooden house in the city (1790); beside it is the Medical Building of the University. The College Green, some ten acres in extent, is a part of the original gift of Ira Allen, the principal founder of the Uni- versity (1791). The first brick building on the left, opposite the Green, is the President's house, next which is the Billings Library, a Romanesque sandstone structure by Richardson, who considered it his finest work. It contains 100,000 vol- umes, including the remarkable Scandinavian library of the late George P. Marsh, the Norse scholar. To the east is the Museum, with a large archeological collection and the fine Cannon oriental collection, of considerable value and interest. South of the Library is Williams Science Hall, in which the Pringle herbarium of nearly 100,000 specimens is almost unique, representing all the known flora of North America. Eastward is Converse Hall, a dormitory of Rutland marble. The view from the cupola of the main building, nicknamed 'Old Mill' by the students, confirms the opinion of Edward Everett Hale, that "so far as Nature has anything to offer to the eye, I had certainly never seen, in the travels of forty years, any position chosen for a city more likely to impress a traveler as remarkable and to live always in his memory." In front R. 5 5- RUTLAND TO BURLINGTON 271 of this building, on the Green, is a statue of Lafayette by J. Q. A. Ward, in memory of his laying the cornerstone of South College, formerly on this site. Merrill Hall is the home of the Agricultural College'. Grass Mount, the girls' dormi- tory, on the corner of Main and Summit Sts., is the best example of Colonial architecture in the city. It was built in 1804 and for a time was the home of Governor Van Ness, later U.S. Minister to Spain. Nearby are several fraternity houses. Southward along South Prospect St., past the University, there is a splendid outlook upon the Green Mountains from a point just beyond Cliff St. On a knoll in the foreground and slightly to the southeast is Fairholt, the summer home of Dr. Henry Holt, the New York publisher. Continuing along South Prospect St. a few hundred yards and turning to the right, the road leads to Overledge Outlook, from which the Champlain valley, 45 townships and more than 70 Adirondack peaks are visible; the highest is Mt. Tahawus (5344 ft). The return to the city follows South Willard St., the first street to the right below the Outlook, and turns left on College St., with its arching elms, passing the Carnegie Library at the corner of Winooski Ave. Ethan Allen Park, or Indian Rock, Ethan Allen's last home, lies one mile and a half out of town, on North Ave. Shortly beyond Battery Park are Dr. Berry's Sanitarium, the Provi- dence Orphan Asylum, and Lake View Cemetery. Not far to the north a road westward leads to Bishop Hopkins Hall, a school for girls, and Sunset Cliff, a high bluff with a command- ing prospect of lake and countryside. Half a mile further along North Ave. is the entrance to Ethan Allen's farm, between the road and the Winooski river at the foot of a tower- crowned cliff of red sandrock. This plot of twelve acres is preserved as a memorial to the leader of the Green Mountain Boys. Tradition makes the rock a lookout station used by the natives watching for their enemies. Fort Ethan Allen (R. 47) is five miles east. The first settlement at Burlington was made in 1774, but the town was abandoned from early in the Revolution until after peace was de- clared. Its name seems to be taken from the Burling family of New York State, who were among the grantees of several Vermont towns. Much of the land in this region was owned by Ethan and Ira Allen. The former is buried in Green Mount Cemetery, on the hillcrest east of the city, overlooking the Winooski. His grave is marked by a Tuscan shaft and a statue of the hero, erected by the State of Ver- mont. Through the blustering energy of these brothers, Vermont was mainly able to force her recognition as an independent State after the Revolution, partly by threatening to join Canada. Vermont remained a separate republic until 1791, so that Ethan was never a citizen of the United States (d. 1789). Ira, his brother, by far the most opulent landholder of the region, was captured and held by the British after 272 BURLINGTON NORTH HERO the close of the Revolution; the charge against him being that arms which he claimed to have bought from the French for the use of Ver- mont were intended for the Irish rebels. During his captivity his property at home was seized through tax laws, and on his liberation he had to flee from imprisonment for d"ebt in Vermont to Philadelphia, where his ungrateful commonwealth allowed him to die a pauper. In 1808 the steamboat "Vermont," only eight months younger than the "Clermont," was launched at Burlington and became the world's second steam craft to win success. The lumber market at Burlington has long been important. The Shepard & Morse Lumber Company, J. R. Booth, and the Robinson- Edwards Company are among the principal firms. Another large firm is Wells, Richardson & Co., which manufactures butter coloring and package dyes for world-wide distribution, as well as proprietary medi- cines, infant food, and cereal milk. The G. S. Blodgett Company makes portable ovens in larger quantities than any other American firm. Maple sugar is handled by Welch Brothers, and cotton goods are made by the Chace Mill and the Queen City Cotton Company. LAKE CHAMPLAIN is 130 miles long, with a maximum width of ii miles, and lies between the States of Vermont and New York, with a slight projection into Canada, at an elevation of 96 feet above sea level. The maximum depth is about 400 feet. Its outlet is the Richelieu river, flowing into the St. Lawrence. Lake George, to the south, is a tributary, and the Champlain Canal (63.0) connects it with the Hudson. Salmon, salmon-trout, and even sturgeon are found here. Points of interest in addition to those on this route are: Ticonderoga (R. 19) and Crown Point, French forts seized by the British in 1759, by the Americans in 1775, and abandoned to the British again in 1777. Split Rock (p 268) and Ausable Chasm are natural curiosities, the latter a gorge of great beauty. Plattsburg and Fort Kent are points of entrance to the Adirondack region. Seven miles north of Burling- ton is Malletts Bay, a landlocked inlet whose beautiful shores are the haunt of summer colonists and of several camps conducted by preparatory schools, such as Camps Iroquois and Champlain, for boys, and Camps Barnard and Winnahkee, for girls. Three miles further north is Winnisquam Bay, another charming inlet, where Camp Winnisquam is located. St. Albans Bay and Missisquoi Bay are wilder spots on the upper reaches of the lake. Nearly all these places are reached by steamboat from Burlington. R. 5 6. Burlington to Montreal. 99.0 m. This route traverses the islands at the head of Lake Cham- plain and leads through a sparsely settled country to Montreal. The road is good gravel to the Canadian line, and the macadam of the King Edward Highway from there on. An alternate route leads by way of St. Albans, Swanton, St. Johns, and Chambly. The latter half is fair clay, not feasible in wet weather. Leaving Burlington by Pearl St. and Colchester Ave., cross the river and the city line into Colchester township. R. 5 6. BURLINGTON TO MONTREAL 273 3.0 WINOOSKI. Alt 190 ft. Pop 4520. Chittenden Co. Settled 1774. Mfg. woolens, brick, and screens. This is an industrial village at the falls of the Winooski, near which the American Woolen Company's mills are prominent. Following Main St. the road climbs a hill and leads straight on through two crossroads. The lefthand roads lead west- ward to Malletts Bay. To the right is the village of Cok Chester Center. The road crosses several brooks, takes the left fork (n.o), and continues to bear left for two miles. After going straight through the crossroads near the hamlet of Champlain (13.0), it crosses an iron bridge and the town line of Milton, bending left and crossing Sand Bar Bridge, a long, narrow structure, to Grand Isle. The Grand Isle County line is midway between the mainland and the island. 21.0 SOUTH HERO. Alt 112 ft. Pop (twp) 60S. Grand Isle Co. Settled 1784. The town was named in honor of Ira Allen. The soil is loamy, producing excellent fruit, and the quiet charm of the countryside and lake shore brings many summer visitors. The rocks and cliffs that line the shore show curiously twisted and wrenched strata. Turning to the right the road skirts the shore of Keeler's Bay, crosses the town line, and goes straight through the village of Grand Isle (26.0). On the western shore of the lake is Plattsburg, N.Y., a garrison town, where the business men's summer military training camp is located. In the waters to the south was fought the Battle of Plattsburg. The lefthand road leads to the Plattsburg ferry (8.0). The road leads on across a long bridge to North Hero Island, a separate township, named in ,Ethan Allen's honor. It is more level than Grand Isle, and equally attractive. Several summer camps are situated on these islands. 34.0 NORTH HERO. Alt 116 ft. Pop (twp) 476. County-seat of Grand Isle Co. Settled 1783. Leaving the village the road crosses a narrow isthmus, over which the Indians carried their canoes, thereby shortening the trip across the lake. To the left is Pelois Bay, at the northern end of which is Dutchmans Point, where the British main- tained a blockhouse for thirteen years after the Revolution. Two miles beyond the bay, turn left across the island. The road now crosses the channel of Alburg Passage, reaching the mainland again in Alburg township, and heads north. Note. The lefthand road (42.0) leads to Isle la Motte, visited by Champlain in 1609. Here the Sieur de la Motte built Fort Ste. Anne in 1666, the furthermost of the chain of 274 NORTH HERO MONTREAL strongholds erected as the French base of defense from the Indians, or for attack on the colonies of Britain. General Mont- gomery made his headquarters here in 1775 on his expedition against Canada, and the British fleet stopped at this point before going to their final defeat at Plattsburg in 1814. A Roman Catholic shrine marks the site of the chapel of the old French fort. Black marble is quarried here, and building stone used in the Brooklyn Bridge, and in the Victoria Bridge at Montreal. A ferry runs from the island to Chazy Landing, N.Y. 48.0 ALBURG. Alt 100 ft. Pop (twp) 1311. Grand Isle Co. Settled by the French, 1731; by the English, 1782. Alburg is on the northwest border of Vermont. The French made a temporary settlement on Windmill Point, but it soon came into the hands of Ira Allen, for whom the town is named. In the days when mineral springs were popular, Alburg was a thriving resort. Following the lake shore to West Alburg, the motor ferry transfers travelers to Rouse's Point, N.Y. (51.5). (Toll, driver and car, $i; passengers, 15 cts.) Two miles north of the ferry, off the New York shore, is Fort Montgomery, a picturesque spot, sometimes known as ' Fort Blunder ' because the American government discovered that it had been erected on Canadian soil and had to purchase the site from Great Britain. Still heading northward, the road crosses the Canadian frontier, where a bond must be filed by motorists entering for pleasure purposes for a sojourn of not more than six months. From this point the route follows the new King Edward Highway, which has a thorough macadam construction. This country is the southern border of the arable St. Lawrence plain, inhabited by French Canadians. The population is sparse, and the road passes through only four inconsiderable villages: Lacolle (61.0), Napierville (69.0), Douglastown (84.0), and Laprairie (90.0). 99.0 MONTREAL. R. 6. NORWALK to TORRINGTON. 63.0 m. Via D ANBURY and LITCHFIELD. This route follows the valley of the Norwalk river north- ward to Branchville, thence crosses the hills to Danbury, whence it follows the valley of Still River into the Housatonic valley at New Milford. Thence it ascends the valley of the East Aspetuck river high into the Litchfield hills to the beauti- ful old town of Litchfield. Leaving Norwalk by Main St. with the trolley at the fork, bear left on Main Ave. The State Road, clearly marked by blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts, follows the valley of the Norwalk river. 6.0 WILTON. Alt 186 ft. Pop (twp) 1706. Fairfield Co. The old academy at Wilton, founded in 1817, became famous under the Olmsteads. The road continues up the valley through the village of Branchville (11.4). Note. Three miles to the east lies Ridgefield, a fine old town with an attractive main street. In the beautiful country surrounding it are many fine residential estates of New York people, including Casagmo, the estate of George M. Olcott, Wild Farms on West Lane, formerly the home of the Hon. Mahlbert B. Carey, and Grove Lawn, the residence of the Hon. Phineas C. Lounsbury, former Governor of Connecticut. There are some fine old houses in the village, including the 'Peter Parley,' built in 1797 by Peter's father, the Rev. Samuel Goodrich, and the 'Cannon-Ball' house, the home of Cass Gilbert, the architect; in its wall is a shot fired from a British fieldpiece in a skirmish here. A tamarack tree near the vil- lage is pointed out as the spot where Benedict Arnold's horse was shot under him in 1777 during the battle with the British. A mile or more to the north is the Ridgefield School for Boys. Four miles northwest of Branchville are Redding and Redding Ridge, another center of fine estates, and the former home of Mark Twain. Here is located the Sanford School for Boys. The highway, marked by blue bands, follows in general the course of the river through Sanford and West Redding, and enters on Park Ave. into 22.5 DANBURY (R. 3, p 206). From Danbury proceed north on Main St. following the blue bands along the valley of the Still river. 30.5 BROOKFIELD. Alt 285 ft. Pop (twp) 1101. Fair field Co. Mfg. shears and steel dies. The highway follows the valley of the Still river into the Housatonic, passing Lanesville and crossing the Housatonic on a long iron bridge. (275) 2 76 NEW MILFORD LITCHFIELD 38.0 NEW MILFORD. Alt 340 ft. Pop (twp) 5010. Litchfield Co. Settled 1702. Mfg. hats, silica paints, tobacco binders, upholstery, gold, silver, and plated ware, and rolled steel. New Milford is a beautiful riverside village. In the midst of a tobacco-growing region it is a center of the tobacco trade. This was the headquarters of the Indians of western Con- necticut and the chief seat of the Great Sachem Waramaug. The first settlers came from Stratford and bought these lands of Wigantenock, an Indian chief. In 1702 Milford bought these same lands of other Indians. The town was incorpo- rated in 1712 as New Milford. The Canterbury School, R.C., has recently been located here. The route now leaves the Housatonic and follows the valley of the East Aspetuck river through the villages of Northville (42.5) and Marbledale (44.5) to 45.5 NEW PRESTON. Alt 510 ft. Pop (Washington twp) 1747. Litchfield Co. Just to the north lies Lake Waramaug, a beautiful sheet of water five miles long with a woody level road skirting its shores. Above it rise the wooded slopes of Pinnacle and Tower Mountains (1200 ft). Three miles to the southeast at Washington are the Gunnery School for Boys, and Wykeham Rise, a fashionable school for girls. The route follows the blue markers beside Bee Brook through Woodville in the valley of the Shepaug river, and ascends through Bantam (53.7), a quaint little village on the Bantam river, whose falls furnish waterpower. Bantam Lake, five miles in length, is the largest sheet of water in Connecticut. The name is derived from the Indian Peantum, "he prays." On the wooded shores of the lake are Chinqueka Camp for Girls and Camp Wonponset for Boys. North of Bantam is Mt. Prospect (1365 ft), at the base of which there is a vein of pyrrhotite with small quantities of nickel and copper. 57.5 LITCHFIELD. Alt 956 ft. Pop 903. Litchfield Co. Litchfield is one of the most charming villages in New England. The beauty of its location, its quiet and seclusion, its former historic importance and literary associations, " throw over it a glamour of old romance and antiquarian splendor." Its broad streets are lined with old elms and well-kept Colonial dwellings which have a dignity and grace of architecture in keeping with the town's past social and intellectual importance. The old mansion of Governor Oliver Wolcott, erected in 1753, still stands on South St. Oliver Wolcott was the first high sheriff of the new county. From this house, the oldest standing in Litchfield, he went out to the Continental Congress as a signer of the Declaration of Independence, served in the R. 6. NORWALK TO TORRINGTON 277 Revolutionary Army as a brigadier-general, and later was a commissioner of Indian affairs. Here in 1776 the leaden statue of George III, which had been erected at Bowling Green in 1770, torn down on the outbreak of the Revolution, and cut up and brought to Litchfield, was melted into bullets for the American Army, chiefly by members of the Wolcott household. Some 42,088 so Governor Wolcott himself at- tests spheroidal fragments of the effigy of George III were here molded, with which to greet the Royal armies. The house still remains in the Wolcott family. Courtesy of Wallace Nutting THE OLD GOVERNOR OLIVER WOLCOTT MANSION, 1753 On the opposite side of the street is the old house of Judge Tapping Reeve, who here in 1784 opened the first Law School in America, which was continued by him and his successor, James Gould, for forty years. Reeve was a man who "loved law as a science and studied it as a philosopher," and here under his eye he trained the foremost legal lights of the time. Among the graduates of the school were five Cabinet ministers, two Justices of the United States Supreme Court, ten Governors of States, sixteen United States Senators, fifty members of Con- gress, forty judges of the higher State courts, eight chief justices of the State, about 1000 in all. Judge Reeve mar- ried a granddaughter of Jonathan Edwards and sister of Aaron Burr, and under this roof Burr came to study law upon the interruption of his flirtation with Dorothy Q. (p 85). 278 LITCHFIELD TORRINGTON John C. Calhoun passed three years of his checkered career here. A small wooden building, now on the grounds of the Historical Society, was the law office of Judge Reeve, in which he met his students. On North St. is the house built in 1760 by Colonel Elisha Sheldon, in the northeast room of which, when it was a tavern, Washington slept. This became the home of Judge James Gould when in 1796 he joined Judge Reeve in the manage- ment of the Law School. It is now the summer home of John Prince Elton. The Deming homestead, The Lindens, on North St., erected in 1790 from designs by a London architect, William Sprats, is architecturally one of the finest of the houses of the Georgian period. Dr. Lyman Beecher lived on the northwest corner of North and Prospect Sts. The house has been moved, but the old well and the Beecher elm are still standing. Lyman Beecher was a masterful personality, and a pioneer in a more genial theology than that which preceded him. Here were born his famous children, Henry Ward Beecher and Harriet Beecher Stowe. The old ' whipping post ' elm still stands on the corner of North and West Sts. The Sheldon-Tallmadge house (1775) is the residence of Mrs. Emily Noyes Vanderpoel, a great-granddaughter of Colonel Tallmadge, the friend of Washington and Lafayette. The Noyes Memorial building contains the Public Library and the collection of the Litchfield Historical Society. The building has some memorial windows and stands on the site of the Ebenezer Marsh house of 1759. This territory, originally called Bantam by the Indians, was bought from them in 1715 for fifteen pounds. On its incorporation four years later it was named for the old English town. It was settled by people from the Connecticut valley. In 1751 it became the county-seat and constantly gained in importance. It lay at the crossing of many post roads, and during the Revolution became an important depot for military stores. In the early part of the nineteenth century, Oliver Wolcott, Jr., set out thirteen sycamore trees in the streets of Litch- field, naming them after the thirteen original colonies. The only one now standing is 'Connecticut,' in front of the Roman Catholic Church. Litchfield has furnished to the nation and the State one signer of the Declaration of Independence, one Secretary of the Treasury, two United States Senators, ten Representatives in Congress, three Governors of Connecticut, four of the twenty Chief Justices of Con- necticut since 1793, more than any other town or city in the State, except Hartford, which also had four, besides judges of the Supreme and Superior Courts, and other State officials, and one Admiral of the United States Navy, to say nothing of Ethan Allen, Vermont's stren- uous hero. 63.0 TORRINGTON (R. 7, p 282). R. 7. STRATFORD to WINSTED. 57.0 m. Via WATERBURY and TORRINGTON. This route follows the course of the lower Housatonic to Derby and thence the valley of the Naugatuck river north- ward. Both the Housatonic and the Naugatuck rivers have worn deep gorges which offer scenic attractions. The easy grades along the river course make this not only an attractive but one of the favorite entrance routes to the Berkshires and New England, the course followed by the "Ideal Tour." The Naugatuck river furnishes valuable waterpower, and it is along this valley that the brass and the Associated Clock industries are centered. About three quarters of the total brass production of the country is centered in this State, mostly in the Naugatuck valley, in spite of the fact that there is no supply of raw materials here. This is largely due to the energy and perseverance of the pioneers, which led early to the estab- lishment of large and completely equipped plants, and to the fact that most of the skilled workmen in this industry are located in this region and it is difficult to get them to migrate. Yet for miles along the course of the valley are stretches of rugged beauty unspoiled forest and bold bluffs that reward the lover of natural beauty. The route throughout is a re- cently completed Trunk Line State Highway, marked by blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. R. 7 1. Stratford to Waterbury. 28.0 m. From Stratford (p 89) the route follows the west bank of the Housatonic river, which is here a broad tidal estuary with a seven-foot channel at low water and a number of islands in mid-stream. The Yale rowing coaches will, beginning with 1916, train their crews on this stretch of water, which offers better rowing facilities than New Haven Harbor, heretofore used. The two-mile stretch from Derby to Two Mile Island forms an ideal rowing course with picturesque shores, and the Housatonic from Derby above Shelton offers a four-mile course. The new Yale Boathouse, to be located just below Derby, can be reached from New Haven by fast trolley past the Yale fields and the Yale Golf Course in thirty minutes. 10.0 SHELTON. Pop 4807. Fairfield Co. Settled 1675. Mfg. velvets, ribbons, pianos, tacks, silverware, pins, and metal beds. Shelton lies opposite Derby at the junction of the Housa- tonic and the Naugatuck valleys. It is one of the prosperous manufacturing towns. It perpetuates the name of Edward N. Shelton, whose perseverance finally resulted in the construc- (279) 280 SHELTON THOMASTON tion of the Housatonic dam in 1870. This dam was three years in building; it is 686 feet long and 22 feet high. Among the larger factories are those of the Derby Silver Company, the Star Pin Company, and the Huntington Piano Company (p 800). From the Square turn right, across the Housatonic river bridge, turning right with trolley into Main St. 10.S DERBY. Alt 16 ft. Pop (twp) 8991. New Haven Co. Settled 1642. Indian name Paugamuc. Mfg. pins, castings, forg- ings, pianos, organs, keys, brass, and hardware. Derby, a brass town, is situated on a headland at the junction of the two rivers. This is an old town, first settled by John Wakeman on the Point between the two rivers where Birmingham now is. In 1675 the early settlers were granted "plantation privileges" and the town was named Derby. Derby Landing early became a shipping center, and as early as 1657 vessels passed regularly between Derby and Milford, and later between Derby and New York and even the West Indies. From 1750 to 1815 was a period of great commercial prosperity, but this declined, partly on account of the War of 1812, and in part because of the development of the turnpikes, which tended to shift the commerce via New Haven and Bridgeport. About this time, however, the foundations of the present manufacturing prosperity of the region were laid. A pioneer manufacturer was General David Humphreys, Wash- ington's aide, and Minister to Portugal and Spain, who was born in Derby in 1752. He founded the town of Seymour further on. Isaac Hull, the famous commander of the old frigate " Constitution," was born at Derby in 1775. Sheldon Smith built the Naugatuck dam and canal in 1833. He interested Anson G. Phelps of New York in the community and induced him to build his "Big Copper Mill" here in 1836. This mill, on the site now occupied by the Ailing Mills, marks the beginning of the copper and brass industry of this section of the valley. The manufacture of pins began at Derby in 1835 with the introduction of a machine that made a pin and its head in one opera- tion. The industry spread to the surrounding towns, and now 65 per cent of the pins used in the United States are produced in this region. The route follows Elizabeth St. upgrade, past the Monu- ment, following the west bank of the Naugatuck. There are some fine old mansions on the heights overlooking the river. On the opposite side is Ansonia, a town founded in 1838 by Anson G. Phelps and named for him. In 1869 the Phelps concern became the present Ansonia Brass & Copper Co., employing 1600 hands. 16.0 SEYMOUR. Alt 100 ft. Pop (twp) 4786. New Haven Co. Inc. 1850. Mfg. brass, copper, and hard rubber goods, plush, edged tools, horseshoe nails, telegraph cables, bicycle parts, and eyelets. In 1806 the first factory in the United States for the making of woolen goods was erected here, and in 1808 the cloth for Thomas Jefferson's inaugural suit was made in this mill. General Humphreys built some extensive woolen mills here R. 7 2. WATERBURY TO WINSTED 281 to introduce the best methods of making broadcloths, and im- ported skilled workmen from England, and merino sheep from Spain. The Humphreysville Copper Company, established here in 1849, was another enterprise of Anson Phelps, but was taken over by the New Haven Copper Company in 1855. The present Humphreysville Manufacturing Company occupies the buildings of the old concern which bore that name and took over the General Humphreys interests. At Seymour the route crosses the Naugatuck river, and, marked by blue bands, follows from here the eastern bank northward through the industrial village of Beacon Falls (19.5). 23.5 NAUGATUCK. Alt 194 ft. Pop (twp) 12,722. New Haven Co. Inc. 1844. Mfg. rubber goods, knit underwear, hosiery, buttons, copper and brass plating, gas and electric fixtures, and cut glass. Naugatuck, a pleasant old town, has given its name to the river and the valley. The word is derived from an Indian phrase, Nau-ko-tunk, "one large tree," from a lofty tree which once stood on Rock Rimmon near the Falls Station. On the outskirts of the village is the historic old Porter House where Washington once made his headquarters. The chief manu- facturers of the town are the Dunham Hosiery Company, the Goodyear Indian Rubber Glove Company, and the Goodyear Metal Rubber Shoe Company. Leaving Naugatuck the route follows trolley, beside the river, into South Main St. to Center Square. 28.0 WATERBURY (R. 3,p 208). R. 7 2. Waterbury to Winsted. 29.0 m. Leaving Waterbury, the route follows West Main St., turn- ing north on Thomaston Ave., following blue bands, along the Naugatuck river, through the hamlet of Waterville (3.0), where Hancock Brook joins the river. The valley here has a depth below the surrounding highlands of about 500 feet. This region is known in a general way as the Litchfield Hills. At 7.5 turn left across R.R., crossing the Naugatuck at Rey- nolds Bridge, and take the lefthand road to Litchfield, follow- ing blue bands. On the right is the Seth Thomas Clock factory, organized in 1853; it employs nearly 1000 hands and manufactures annually 400,000 clocks. 9.5 THOMASTON. Alt 378 ft. Pop (twp) 3533. Litchfield Co. Inc. 1875. Mfg. clocks, watches, and brass goods. Thomaston, the 'clock town,' is in the midst of some of the finest scenery of the valley. Seth Thomas (1785-1859) was a carpenter in New Haven. In 1813 he migrated to the little hamlet of Plymouth, now Thomaston, and 282 THOM ASTON WINSTED with two partners began to manufacture clocks. Later he became the sole proprietor of perhaps the largest clock factory in America, whose product is so wellknown all over the world. The route continues to follow the narrow valley of the Naugatuck through Fluteville and Campville. A mile to the east is the old town of Plymouth. Oliver Ames, progenitor of the numerous Ameses (North Easton, R. 32), was born here, and invented and manufactured a cannon of heavy iron rings welded together. The route passes through the quiet village of East Litchfield (17.0), four miles west of which is the dig- nified old town of Litchfield (p 276). Following the blue markers along the valley and crossing the river, the road leads into Main St. 20.0 TORRINGTON. Alt 593 ft. Pop (twp) 16,840; (vil) 15,483. Litchfield Co. Settled 1734. Mfg. sheet and rolled brass, gold plated goods, iron, brass, copper, and spelter castings, needles, machines, cycle spokes and pedals, nails, woolen goods, and piano hardware. Torrington is a thriving industrial town, encircled by the Litchfield Hills. The house in which John Brown of Harpers Ferry fame was born, in 1800, is still preserved in its original form by the John Brown Association. Other noteworthy natives are Samuel J. Mills, 'Father of Foreign Missions in America,' born in 1783, and Collis P. Huntington, one of the five men who built a railroad to the Pacific Coast. In 1806 this settlement was known as New Orleans Village, or 'Mast Swamp,' because of the pine trees on its hillsides, much used for ship- building. In 1813 some of the Wolcotts of Litchfield, impressed by the local waterpower, bought land and built a woolen mill, whereupon the village was called Wolcottville. It eventually became Torrington in 1881, and an incorporated borough in 1887. The town's pros- perity dates from 1863. Its principal firms are the Coe Brass Manu- facturing Company, the Turner & Seymour Manufacturing Company, the Union Hardware Company, the Excelsior Needle Company, the Hendey Machine Company, the Torrington Manufacturing Company, Hotchkiss Brothers Company, the Warrenton Woolen Company, the Standard Company, and the Progressive Manufacturing Company. Leaving Torrington by Main St., and crossing the river, the route follows the State Highway through the valley of Still River, past the hamlet of Burrville (25.0), to 29.0 WINSTED. Alt 724 ft. Pop 7754. Litchfield Co. Settled 1756. Mfg. clocks, silk goods, hosiery, cutlery, pins, tools, hardware, leather, chairs, bronzes, lamps, derricks, sashes, and doors. Winsted is a beautiful borough in the town of Winchester, among the Litchfield Hills. The name was coined from Win- chester and Barkhamsted, the name of the adjoining town- ship. The Mad river, which here unites with the Still river, furnishes valuable waterpower, supporting thriving and varied industries. R. 7 2. WATERBURY TO WINSTED 283 In the central part of the borough, in the Park, there is a sixty-foot tower in memory of the soldiers of Winsted who fell in the Civil War. In another Park there is a Soldiers' Monu- ment and a memorial fountain. The Gilbert High School and the William L. Gilbert Home for friendless children were each endowed with more than $600,000 by William L. Gilbert, a prominent citizen. The Old Mill house, built by David Austin in 1771, was the first frame house in the village. The Colonial mansion built by Solomon Rockwell in 1813 is now the home of Miss Mary P. Hinsdale. Rose Terry Cooke (1827-92), the writer of stories and poems, lived here in an old Colonial house still standing. To the southwest of the town, Highland Lake is encircled by Wakefield Boulevard, a seven-mile drive, along which are many summer cottages. Clock-making is the chief industry of ^the town. Those wooden clocks that are so highly prized as heirlooms were manufactured here as early as 1807 by Hoadley & Whiting, and the Wm. L. Gilbert Clock Company is the direct outgrowth of this earlier firm. It is one of the largest in the world exclusively devoted to clock-making. The Winsted Mfg. Company, makers of scythes, is the oldest industrial firm in the town. The plant of the New England Pin Company, on Bridge St., turns out 15,000,000 pins a day, weighing a ton. Among the other manufacturing concerns are Geo. Dudley & Son, leather manufacturers, established in 1831; the Strong Mfg. Company, undertakers' materials; the Winsted Silk Company; the Winsted Hosiery Company; and the New England Knitting Company. The State Highway running east and west from Canaan to Hartford passes through Winsted, marked by yellow bands on poles and posts. The State Highway from Stratford to Winsted is continued northward to the State line. This route is to be marked by blue bands on poles, and goes through Roberts- ville and Colebrook River, near the Massachusetts boundary, whence a Massachusetts State Highway is now being con- structed through New Boston and Otis to West Becket. (284) ISLAND SOUND THE CONNECTICUT REGION PE SAR6ENT. R. 8. SALISBURY TO HARTFORD. 49 5 m. Via CANAAN and WINSTED. This route through the Litchfield Hills and the northwestern portion of Connecticut offers much in scenic attractions and forms an important link in the entrances to New England from New York State. It is a continuation of the New York Highway from Poughkeepsie (p 231). From Salisbury to Hartford is State Highway, marked throughout its course by yellow bands on telegraph poles. The section from Salisbury to Canaan is on Route 5 (p 243). From the village of Canaan (6.5) the macadam State High- way, marked by yellow bands, follows along the terraces on the northern side of the Blackberry river, passing under R.R. to East Canaan (9.0). In the village is the fine old Stevens place. Samuel Forbes, an early iron master who had erected a forge at Lakeville in which were cast Revolutionary cannon, built a slitting mill here, the 1;hird in the country. Limestone is extensively quarried here and burnt in lime as well as dressed for building stone. The State Capitol at Hartford is built of dolomitic marble from these quarries. The route crosses Whiting River, a tributary of the Black- berry, and continues through West Norfolk (1082 ft), upgrade, with Haystack Mountain to the north, into 14.0 NORFOLK. Alt 1240 ft. Pop (twp) 1541. Litchfield Co. Inc. 1758. Norfolk is beautifully situated in the midst of delightful -scenery and is becoming yearly a more popular resort during both the summer and winter. It has been styled 'the Lenox of the Litchfield Hills. ' At the end of the village Green is a fountain of granite and bronze designed by Stanford White, the bronze by Saint-Gaudens. The old village church has a commanding situation on the summit of a hill. There are many fine residences in the town, notably that of Mr. Eldridge, and Fox Hill, the residence of the Hon. H. H. Bridgman, in the style of a French chateau, designed by J. Cleveland Cady, the grounds laid out by the Olmsteds. The Litchfield County Choral Union, which has its center at Norfolk, has a chorus of over 400, and, assisted by an orchestra of 75, gives a three days' festival in a large building erected for the purpose. The golf links on Norfolk Downs are the best in this section. Four miles southeast is Lake Wan- gum, high up on the pine-covered slope of Canaan Mountain. From Norfolk the highway follows the course of Mad (286) R. 8. SALISBURY TO HARTFORD 287 River. This highway across Litchfield County has for cen- turies been known as the 'Great Green Woods Road.' In 1752 the inhabitants of Simsbury and Farmington joined the settlers of New Hartford in a petition to build this road. It was over this that Ethan Allen marched for Ticonderoga, and patriots traversed it toward Lexington and Bunker Hill. In the Revolution, troops and munitions, and detachments of Burgoyne's army as prisoners of war passed over the road, and iron and lumber were transported from Salisbury to Hartford. Yale College received a grant in 1742. Rights to land here were sold at public auction; there was such a prejudice against the site that all the purchasers except one forfeited their rights and thereby lost their first installments of forty shillings each. The Connecticut Legislature, however, offered it for sale again in 1754, and this time settlers were induced to move in. 23.5 WINSTED (R.7,p282). The route follows Main St. with trolley into the New Hartford road, which ascends and then follows the course of Mad River into 30.0 NEW HARTFORD. Alt 419 ft. Pop (twp) 2144. Litchfield Co. Inc. 1738. Mfg. cotton goods, silk, brushes, and planes. On Town Hill, near the old landmark of Town Hill Church, is the home of Edith Wynne Matthison and her husband, Charles Rann Kennedy; Mme. Clara Louise Kellogg-Strakosch lives on a neighboring hill. Lake Wonksunkamonk is a pretty body of water three miles west of the village, with a summer colony of actors and literary folk. In Howe's shop, on the site of the New Hartford House, woman first sewed a stitch on a sewing-machine. From this point the route follows the valley of the Farming- ton river, crossing the striking Satan Kingdom Gorge. Just before reaching Collinsville the road, marked in yellow, turns eastward and away from the river. 36.5 CANTON. Alt 900 ft. Pop (twp) 2732. Hartford Co. Inc. 1806. Mfg. tools. The State Road continues across the hills through Avon (40.0) and climbs the steep slope of Talcott Mountain (1020 ft) to an elevation of 525 feet and descends the gentler eastern slope. The mountain is a double ridge of basalt formed as a lava flow, which has been tilted and left standing by the erosion of the softer Connecticut river sandstones about it. 49.5 HARTFORD (R.l,p 111). R. 9. THE LOWER HOUSATONIC VALLEY. 68.0m. From DERBY to CANAAN. The Housatonic valley through this portion of its course has worn a deep trough in the hard crystalline rocks. It is what the geologists call a "deeply trenched" valley, which has been worn to a depth of approximately 500 feet below the surrounding flat-topped hills. The floor of the valley offers a level and natural course for the trunk line highway projected. At the junction of the Housatonic and the Naugatuck, in the last half century have developed a group of important manufacturing towns specializing in brass and hardware. The road from Derby (p 280) follows the river on its north- eastern bank through a sparsely inhabited but scenically at- tractive region. On the opposite bank the road runs as far as Zoar Bridge, where it turns east through the wide valley of Half Way River. At Bennetts Bridge (15.0) the Pompa- raug river enters from the north and the Pootatuck from the south. These two valleys form a natural east and west high- way, and here Route 3 (p 208) and the Highland Division of the N. Y., N. H. & H. R.R. cross the Housatonic valley. The valley road continues to follow the river closely through a wild and little known country to STILL RIVER (31.0), a little hamlet. Here the Housatonic plunges over the Great Falls and whirls its turbulent course through a deep rock gorge. 34.0 NEW MILFORD (R. 6,p276). The valley soils about here are favorable to the growth of tobacco, and New Milford is a considerable tobacco market. The valley here is broad and fertile. To the west, Rocky River runs north for some miles parallel with the Housatonic, but in the opposite direction, joining the Housatonic at BOARDMAN BRIDGE (36.0), where lime-burning has become in the last decade a flourishing industry. To the west is the long jagged ridge of Candlewood Mountain. The Housatonic valley from New Milford to Kent is at its loveliest. The road between here and Gaylordsville was the route for the transport of arms and munitions in the Revolution. GAYLORDSVILLE (40.5) is a quiet little hamlet in the midst of broad tobacco fields. The original Gaylord homestead, now the home of Jeanette Gaylord, still stands on the left. The first William Gaylord, or Gaillard (the family originally came from Normandy), was an emigrant on the "Mary and John," and set- tling first in Dorchester, migrated to Windsor in the Connecticut valley. Ensign William Gaylord was granted 1000 acres in this vicinity. In the early deeds the Housatonic was always called "The Great River," the name Houssatunnick first appearing in a deed by William Sherman, father of Roger Sherman, to William Gaylord in 1744. When he set- tled here he found the old Schaghticoke chieftain, Siacus, living in (288) R. 9. THE LOWER HOUSATONIC VALLEY 289 a hut further up the river at what is now called Gaylords Bridge. The Schaghticokes had long cultivated apples all through this region. From Gaylordsville a good road to the west leads to Webo- tuck, N.Y., and South Dover on Route 5 (p 240). Two miles beyond, the Webotuck river enters from the west. On Scata- cook Mountain (1500 ft) there were until recently, and may be still, a few Indians who lived in huts. They were the rem- nants of the once populous village here which during the Revo- lution provided 100 warriors to fight the British. A half-breed is president of a rattlesnake club, whose spring hunt draws par- ticipants from neighboring cities to share the sport and also the dinner afterward, at which the only accepted snake-bite cure is plentifully provided. Here the Housatonic river is at its nearest point to the New York boundary, less than a mile. Within the past few years there has been a large hydro- electric development in this region. The diversion canals, conduits, and power houses are conspicuous features in this portion of the valley. 47.0 KENT. Alt 395 ft. Pop 1122. Litch field Co. Inc. 1739. Kent is a quiet old town. In the vicinity is the Kent School, for boys, maintained by the Order of the Holy Cross. The valley from Kent northward becomes narrow and wilder, the river more turbulent. Good roads on either side of this river make accessible this picturesque valley. Not far above the town the ruins of a blast furnace are seen, used for more than a century in the days when pig iron was a lead- ing local product (p 242). The waterpower is owned by the Stanley Rule and Level Company. The route passes the hamlet of Cornwall Bridge (52.0). Four miles to the eastward, near the only first-growth pine in New England south of New Hampshire, is the beautiful oldtime village of Cornwall Plains. Here is the Rumsey School, for young boys. In 1808 a Sandwich Islander founded a mission for the Indians and a few of his own race, which he maintained here until his death in 1818. 56.0 WEST CORNWALL. Alt 550 ft. Pop (twp) 1016. Inc. 1740. Four and a half miles on the right rises Barrack Mountain. Opposite, to the west where the valley of Salmon Creek enters, is the village of Lime Rock. Here limestone is quarried and the iron ore from Salisbury is smelted, especially by the firm of Barnum & Richardson Company, furnishing an iron of superior quality, the demand for which exceeds the supply. At Falls Village (62.5) a hydro-electric plant with a high dam has marred the grandeur of the 130-foot falls. 68.0 CANAAN (R. 6,p 246). R. 10. THE CONNECTICUT VALLEY ROUTES. From THE SOUND to BEETTON WOODS and COLEBROOK, WEST BANK, 322.5 m., EAST BANK, 343.5 m. THE CONNECTICUT RIVER VALLEY is not primarily a river valley, but a broad basin occupied in part by the present course of the Connecticut river. The stream, however, leaves the valley near Middletown, Conn., and has cut a steep-sided gorge through the eastern highlands. The rocks of the Con- necticut basin differ from those of a majority of the other sections of New England in that they consist of bedded sand- stones and shales, with intrusions and sheets of the basaltic rocks which form the mountain ranges within the valley proper. The sandstones and shales are generally red and give a dis- tinct color to the later deposits into which they have been re-worked. The Connecticut river is itself bordered by long, narrow stretches of meadow land throughout the greater part of its course. The meadows are overflowed from time to time, but are tilled and used for the production of farm crops. In Massachusetts the Connecticut flows through a basin of weaker Triassic shales and sandstones, and the valley broadens out, forming a part of the finest agricultural region of large extent in New England. In places, hills of harder trap rock rise so high that they are called mountains, Mt. Tom, Mt. Holyoke. For the most part the river winds among the alluvial lowlands which it has created, and the valley rises in a series of the most perfect steps or terraces in the country. These have been cut by the river in its work of removing the heavy deposits of gravel, sand, and clay that were laid down in this lowland during the closing stages of the glacial period, when great volumes of water heavily laden with sediment were poured into this valley from the receding ice front. In the course of this excavation of glacial deposit spurs of rock have been uncovered, over which the water falls and tumbles, as at South Hadley, Turners Falls, and Vernon. The river now has a scant summer traffic as far as Hartford, forty miles from its mouth, but formerly the commerce it carried was con- siderable. In 1816 we read, "The Connecticut river is navigable two hundred miles above Hartford for boats above fifteen tons and fifty miles higher for floats and pine timber." Large quantities of potash were carried down river even from the Canada line, and most of the supplies for the up-river settle- ments were carried up in flat-boats. William Pynchon of Springfield was the first to establish systematic river transportation. To facilitate movement of freight around the Enfield Rapids he built a great storage warehouse below the falls at Warehouse Point. The earliest traffic was in dug-out canoes made (290) R. 10 I. WEST BANK: SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD 291 from the trunks of single pine trees. These huge "canoe trees" were protected by a heavy penalty from those who ruthlessly cut them. We hear of a fleet of fifty Indian canoes coming from Pocumtuck (Deerfield) in the spring of 1638 heaped with Indian corn to relieve the famine down-river which followed the Pequot War. Later flat-boats came into use, which were propelled along shore by "snubbing" with "setting poles." In the eighteenth century the flat-boat traffic in the much-needed commodities of the time iron, salt, and much rum had reached considerable proportions. Before the middle of the seventeenth century the Connecticut river towns as far north as Hartford had become seaports, building and sending vessels with their wares to the Barbadoes and the Madeiras. The first quarter of the nineteenth century was a period of great activity in improving the means of transportation, both by turnpikes and canals. The companies formed for their establishment were the popular means for the investment of capital at that time. Many ambitious projects were formed for increasing the navigability of the Connecticut by building lock canals around the falls and rapids. The initial enterprise was a canal built at South Hadley in 1795- It was cut for two and a half miles from solid rock and made possible the transportation of boats or rafts forty feet long and twenty feet wide. The boats, placed on a cradle, were pulled up along an inclined plane by a cable. The Turners Falls canal was opened for service in 1800, and that of Bellows Falls in 1802. The Enfield canal was not opened until 1829, but was wisely planned to utilize the waterpower, so that, though the railroads a decade later put the boat-canals out of business, this is still in use. In the early part of the nineteenth century the type of boat was a flat-boat of stout oak about seventy feet in length and fifteen feet in width, fitted with a mast and sails. These boats had a capacity of thirty to forty tons. The up-trip from Hartford to Wells River took about twenty days, but sometimes the return trip would be made in five. The round trip between Hartford and Bellows Falls averaged about two weeks. The canals brought good dividends for a time, and there was much wildcat promotion. In 1816 a survey was made for a canal from the Merrimack to the Connecticut by way of the Contoocook and Sugar rivers. In 1825 a canal was opened, joining New Haven with the Connecticut by way of the Farm- ington river. In June, 1827, Governor Clinton of New York, the ' Great Mogul of canal matters,' who had just finished the Erie Canal, made a tour up the Connecticut river with a view to forming canal companies in New England. R. 10 1. West Bank: Saybrook to Hartford. 43.5m. This route follows the course of the Connecticut from the Sound through one of the more remote and most beautiful portions of Connecticut. It is a region of hard glacial rocks and granites through which in former geologic times the Connecticut has worn a narrow gorge to a depth of about 500 feet below the fairly even level of the adjacent flattened hill- tops which mark the river of the former 'Cretaceous Pene- plain.' The tributary streams flow precipitately from the highlands to the Connecticut, affording small but valuable waterpowers. The Connecticut itself is a tidal stream through- out this portion of its course. 2Q 2 SAYBROOK HADDAM From Saybrook to Hartford a State Road, one of the main trunk lines of the system, with blue markers, follows pretty closely the course of the river for the most part at a level of about one hundred feet above the stream, commanding beauti- ful views of the river gorge with its rocky, wooded banks. It passes through interesting old villages, many of which still retain a flavor of the prosperity of old shipbuilding days and the once prosperous West India trade, and through little in- dustrial communities utilizing the waterpower from the streams that tumble down from the heights above. From the Boston Post Road at Old Saybrook the State Road runs northward through Saybrook Junction (3.0), skirt- ing South Cove to 7.5 ESSEX. Alt 32 ft. Pop (twp) 2745. Middlesex Co. Settled 1690. Indian name Potapaug. Mfg. bone and ivory goods, piano keys, augers and bits; daily steamer to New York and Hartford in season. Essex is an oldtime shipbuilding village, where war vessels were built during the Revolution; it was still of sufficient im- portance in 1812 to be raided by the British. The first settlers built their houses on Potapaug Point, and as the village grew it crept up the steep hill to the west of the lowland. The houses on the hill are approached by gently sloping terraced streets, along which one gets charming and constantly chang- ing views of the river, the coves, the islands, and the Lyme shore to the east. An old warehouse still stands on the shore, built in 1753 by Abner Parker and long owned by the Haydens, who acquired wealth in the shipbuilding and the West India trade. The old Hayden homestead (1766), just behind the warehouse, was a tavern up to 1800. It contains some fine large rooms filled with beautiful specimens of old furniture. Bone and ivory working has long been an important indus- try here. The making of combs was begun before 1800, and the Pratts, father and son, here invented the first machine for cutting the teeth of combs. Their workshop is the third house west of Pratt's Smithy on West Ave. The smithy is owned and operated by a direct descendant in the ninth gen- eration of William Pratt, the settler, who built the first shop on the same spot about 1678. The second house west of the smithy is the old Pratt homestead, the rear portion being of unknown antiquity. The Rev. Thomas Buckingham, one of the incorporators of Yale, and a successful trapper of beaver, settled in 1702 on Beaver Pond, some miles back from the river, where beaver were then abundant. The State Road runs at a distance from the river through R. 10 I. WEST BANK: SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD 293 Deep River (9.8), the principal community in what is left of the old town of Saybrook, from which have been carved out so many of the surrounding townships. The road descends to lower levels, following the blue markers beside the river near 11.0 CHESTER. Alt 17 ft. Pop (twp) 1419. Middlesex Co. Settled 1692. Mfg. auger bits, ivory, bone, and wooden goods, man- icure fittings, bright wire goods, and brushes. Chester is one of the many towns carved out of the former greater territory of Saybrook. It was incorporated as a parish in 1740, when it received its present name. The village lies a mile to the west. Its industries utilize the waterpower from Cedar Lake. As early as 1666 the fine waterpower at the outlet of Cedar Swamp was ceded by the colony to Governor Winthrop, who early "gobbled up" waterpowers throughout New England. This led to protest and litigation, and Winthrop was obliged to relinquish his claim. The first mill to utilize the valuable waterpower of the outlet of Cedar Lake was built in 1734. Between the road and the river is the Haddam R.R. station. Immediately opposite is Lords Island. Through the township of Haddam the road runs close to the river through a succession of hamlets. The first road to the right leads to Tylersville, a charming little village close to the river, from which a bridge leads to East Haddam and the East Bank Route (p 300). The first settler built his house to the north of Creek Row, where the hotel now stands, and established a ferry which until recently retained the original name of Chapman's Ferry. Goodspeed's ship- yard here turned out many vessels in the J 4o's and 'so's, which were built on the site of what is now the Gelston House. Many Con- necticut boats used in the Civil War were constructed here. Two miles beyond, the State Road passes successively through the hamlets of Shailorville, Arnolds, and 18.5 HADDAM. Alt 20 ft. Pop (twp) 1958. Middlesex Co. Settled 1662. Mfg. cotton goods and agricultural implements; stone quarrying. The village, the center of the interesting old town, is alive to present-day activities and is free from debt. Haddam was settled in 1662 by twenty-eight young men who took up land in the neighborhood. of Walkley Hill and Mill Creek. The Indian title is said to have been acquired for thirty cents. In the center of the township is a little hamlet known as Ponset from its Indian name of Cockaponset. One of the early clergy was Aaron Cleveland, great-great-grandfather of President Cleveland. He sub- sequently moved to Nova Scotia, where he became converted to the Episcopal Church. Later he returned to America and died at the home of his old friend, Benjamin Franklin, in Philadelphia. This was also the birthplace of David Dudley Field and Justice Stephen Johnson Field of the United States Supreme Court. They were the sons of David Dudley Field, another of the early parsons, who subsequently moved to Stockbridge (p 249). 294 HADDAM MIDDLETOWN The road continues close to the river to Higganum (21.0), where Ponset and Candlewood brooks tumble down to the river, supplying waterpower. The name, common in this region, comes from the Indian Higganumpus, "fishing-place." From here the route turns inland, cutting off a bend in the river and climbing between Chestnut Mountain (620 ft) and Bear Hill (650 ft) to a height of 400 feet, and descends into 28.5 MIDDLETOWN. Alt 40 ft. Pop 11,851 (1910), 20,749 (loc. est. 1916). Hartford Co. Settled 1650. Indian name Mattabesett, "carry ing -place" or "portage." Mfg. pumps and hydraulic machinery, rubber, textiles, hardware, and cutlery. Hartford and New York steamboats stop regularly during the season. Value of Product, $6,000,000; Payroll, $3,000,000 (1915). Middletown, the seat of Wesleyan University, built on land gently rising from the great bend of the Connecticut, is one of New England's most beautiful inland towns. President John Adams, traveling through the Connecticut valley, said: "Mid- dletown, I think, is the most beautiful of all ... the more I see of this town, the more I admire it." John Fiske, the historian, who spent his boyhood here, said, "In the very aspect of these broad, quiet streets, with their arching trees, their digni- fied and hospitable, sometimes quaint homesteads, we see the sweet domesticity of the old New England unimpaired." The city lies at the western margin of the Connecticut low- land. Three miles to the east the river enters a narrow, steep- walled gorge and flows between the Haddam Hills of hard, gneissic rock to the Sound at Saybrook. From Middletown the view across the lowland and Pecausett Pond to the head of the gorge, where the river enters the hills, is striking. Formerly a prosperous seaport, the town still gives some hint along Water St. of wharfage and shipyards, suggesting its former maritime prosperity. On Main St. are the public buildings and business houses, the old Custom House, a relic of the past, and the Berkeley Divinity School (Episcopal), organized in 1854. High Street, 160 feet higher than the river, lined with fine old houses and gardens and a double row of stately elms, led Charles Dickens to declare it the finest rural street he had ever seen. Fronting on it is the campus of Wesleyan University, which opened its doors in 1831, the first of the Methodist Colleges, and one of the first to offer a scientific course. Bene- factions have continued to pour in until now the plant and its endowments aggregate $3,000,000, $i,oco,oco having been added in the year 1912. The Orange Judd Hall of natural science contains valuable natural history collections. The Memorial Chapel has in the upper church memorial windows R. io I. WEST BANK: SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD 295 to those who died in the Civil War as well as to other illustri- ous alumni. The view from the tower embracing the baylike river, the city below, and the surrounding hills, is delightful. Brissot de Warville, a French tourist, wrote in 1788, "From the hill over Middletown is one of the finest and richest prospects in America." Southeast are the spacious grounds and clustered buildings of the Industrial School for Girls, and southwest the imposing buildings of the State Hospital for the Insane, with three thousand inmates. Across the river are the now aban- doned brownstone quarries of Portland. To the north the river winds its placid way. Eastward it enters through a gateway into the gorge between the Haddam Hills. Indian cemeteries and numerous relics found here attest the popu- larity of this territory with the Indians. The original Plantation, six miles on each side of the Connecticut, was purchased from the Great Sachem Sequasson, or Sowheag, in 1650 and 1673. Shipbuilding began here in 1670, and during the later Colonial days an extensive and lucrative trade was carried on with the West Indies. Coastwise trade with New York continued until the abandonment of the brownstone quarries on the opposite side of the river. In 1776 the prosperity of its trade was such that Middletown had the largest population of any town in Connecticut, 5000, as compared with New York's 23,000 and Boston's 4000. The first mill was built here in 1655, and with the nineteenth century, manufacturing industries began to supplant the declining trade. Today it is a remarkably wealthy town for its size, with thirty manufacturing plants, employing over 6000. Commodore Macdonough, a resident of the town, the hero of the naval battle of the War of 1812 at Plattsburg on Lake Champlain (p 268), is buried in the cemetery north of the R.R. station. It was Major Meigs of this town who, when with Arnold on the Kennebec Expedition, was taken prisoner at Quebec, and later, in 1777, made the brilliantly successful raid on the British at Sag Harbor. Following Main St. the road turns right at St. John's Church and Square. To our right is the Union Station. The route follows the west bank of the Connecticut for half a mile, cross- ing a small iron bridge and R.R. to the swampy lowlands of the Mattabesett, or Little, river. Cromwell (30.5), formerly known as the 'Upper Houses,' be- came a township with its present name in 1851. Near the station is a small triangular park with a memorial stone to the "Founders, Fathers, Pastors, and Patriots." The growing of flowers under glass, Easter lilies and roses in particular, is the chief industry here. William C. Redfield (b. 1789), a marine engineer of note, who discovered the progressive and rotary motion of storms, and founded the Hudson river barge sys- tem, was a merchant of this town. The road passes through a fertile country and ascends with fine views over the valley to 296 ROCKY HILL WETHERSFIELD J5.5 ROCKY HILL. Alt 46 ft. Pop (twp) 1187. Hartford Co. Inc. 1843. Mfg. iron, steel, and crushed stone. Hartford- New York steamboat daily in season. The parish, set off in 1720, bore the names successively of Lexington and Stepney until the present name was adopted in 1826. Captain Thomas Danforth manufactured tin and pew- ter here in 1785, and one of his apprentices, Ashbel Griswold, established at Meriden in 1808 the great britannia works which yielded him a fortune. The road descends through South Wethersfield to 39.S WETHERSFIELD. Alt 36 ft. Pop (twp) 3148. Hartford Co. Settled 1634. Indian name Pyquag, "open country." Mfg. tools; seeds. State prison mfg. shirts. Wethersfield today is a tranquil residential suburb of Hart- ford, with broad, elm-shaded streets and greens. It lies in the midst of a rich agricultural region, especially devoted to the growing of garden seeds; and Wethersfield onions have had a reputation for more than two centuries and are still to be noted in all seed catalogs. The present church, greatly admired by Washington, was built in 1761, modeled after the Old South in Boston. Its Christopher Wren spire lifting above the trees from among the tombstones of the churchyard presents a charming pas- toral. The Wethersfield Elm, on the east side of the Green, on Broad St., a quarter mile south of the church, is the largest American elm in existence, and perhaps the most magnificent tree east of the Rockies. It has a girth of twenty-six and a half feet five feet from the ground. The Webb House, long known as 'Hospitality Hall,' nearly opposite the Post Office on Main St., near the center of the town, dates from 1753. At the time of the Revolution Joseph Webb entertained here many famous men. A brother of the host was on the personal staff of General Washington, and here in May, 1781, was held the historic conference between General Washington and Count De Rochambeau and their suites, at which the campaign of Yorktown was planned. The house is now owned by Wallace Nutting, the artist, of Framingham. One of the rooms still has the original wall paper carefully pre- served. Adjoining is the house of Silas Deane, who married a Webb, and here attained great wealth in the West India trade. He became a member of the Continental Congress, and later was sent as agent to Paris, where through unfortu- nate events his career was wrecked, and he died impoverished. This region was occupied by the Mohegan tribe, who, pressed by the warlike Pequots, in 1631 sent several sachems to Boston from "the River Quonehtacut which lies west of Narragansett," to form an alliance with the English. One of these, Wahquinnicutt, a sagamore of the Podunk tribe, had been a servant of Sir Walter Raleigh. Their R. 10 I. WEST BANK: SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD 2 9 7 description of the fertile country led the adventurer John Oldham to come overland in 1633 to this district, where he was kindly received. In the winter of 1634-35 a company of people from Watertown, discontented with the religious and other rigorous restrictions placed upon them by the Bay Colony, and feeling that it was becoming overcrowded, mi- grated to the Connecticut valley and settled here. They evidently brought the seeds of discontent and discord with them, for from Wethersfield further migrations resulting from similar causes between 1638 and 1645 settled the towns of Milford (1639), Stamford (1640), Stratford (1640), Branford (1644), and others, so that Wethersfield came to be the mother town among new settlements. The Dutch, who had from their fort a few miles above previously enjoyed unmolested the trade of the valley, did not welcome these THE WEBB HOUSE, 'HOSPITALITY HALL/ WETHERSFIELD Puritan intruders. In Irving's "Knickerbocker's History of New York" we read: "The enemy pushed farther and farther into his territories, and assumed a most formidable appearance in the neigh- bourhood of Fort Goed Hoop. Here they founded the mighty town of Piquag, or, as it has since been called, Wethersfield, a place which, if we may credit the assertion of that worthy historian, John Josselyn, Gent., 'hath been infamous by reason of the witches therein.' And so daring did these men of Piquag become that they extended their plantations of onions, for which their town is illustrious, !under 'the very noses of the garrison of Fort Goed Hoop insomuch that the 298 WETHERSFIELD HARTFORD honest Dutchmen could not look toward that quarter without tears in their eyes." A frontier town, it was for many years exposed to the attacks of the Pequpts. In 1637 two hundred of them fell upon the settlement, kill- ing six men and three women, and carrying off captives; two* maids, daughters of William Swayne, were later rescued by a Dutch trader, ransomed by Lyon Gardiner, and restored to their relatives. Wethersfield was a prolific field for witches. In 1648 Mary Johnson, an old offender, who had been whipped for theft in 1641, was "by her owne confession" found guilty of "familiarity with the devil" and hanged; and a few years later John Carrington and his wife, proved witches, were likewise hanged. Shipbuilding and fishing for shad and salmon were important occu- pations from the early -days of the Plantation. Here in 1707 were made the first corn brooms, which soon became conspicuous in the Yankee peddler's pack. But the vast onion fields furnished the chief occupation and source of wealth. Kendall in his "Travels" in 1808 remarked that "Wethersfield has a church built of brick, and strangers are facetiously told that it was built of onions. On explanation it is said that it was built at the cost of the female part of the communit3', and out of the profits of their agriculture," and Peters in his fanciful "History" (p 116) writes in 1781 that Wethersfield parents "buy annually a silk gown for each daughter above the age of seven until she is married. The young beauty is obliged in return to weed a patch of onions with her own hands." The Nott family was prominent in the early history of Wethers- field. John Nott, from Nottingham, England, settled here in 1640. Among his descendants were Judge Tapping Reeve of the Litchfield Law School, and Nathan Hale of Revolutionary fame. Abraham Nott, one of the earliest graduates from Yale, in 1720, survives in tradition as a strong man. It is said that he could raise a barrel of cider and drink from the bung-hole. As a preacher he was irresistible, and equally so as a wrestler. One of the later John Notts settled in Weathersfield, Vt. (See Springfield, Vt., R. 43.) While Wethersfield is today proud of the fact that it has no public place of refreshment for the weary traveler, in the old days it was well supplied with taverns. In 1675 Richard Smith, the ferryman, kept a tavern at the ferry on the New London road. At Stillman's Tavern Washington in 1781 held a consultation with his officers. Leaving the town the route follows the blue markers and the trolley. The State Penitentiary, to the right, was located here in 1827, when the unfortunate prisoners were removed to it from the old copper mines and caverns at Newgate. In the chapel of the State Prison is a fresco by Miss Genevieve Cowles, who devoted more than three years to this task. Her interest was aroused when designing windows for Christ Church, New Haven, the composition of which was based upon the following ancient antiphon (O Clavis David): "O Key of David and sceptre of the House of Israel, Thou that openest and no man shutteth, and shuttest and no man openeth; come and loose the prisoner from the prison house and him that sitteth in darkness and the shadow of death." To obtain a prisoner as a model, Miss Cowles came to Wethers- field. A life prisoner was found who consented to pose, and as day by day she worked in the prison and came to sympathize with the unfortunates about her, she became a potent spiritual force among them. She then conceived the idea of painting a fresco for the chapel that might bring comfort and inspiration to the inmates. The prisoners R. 10 I. EAST BANK: OLD LYME TO HARTFORD 299 discussed the grouping of the scene and pored over their Bibles until they decided that they wished as a background the portrayal of the Sea of Galilee. To get the true atmosphere Miss Cowles spent many months in Palestine studying the Galilean landscape and native types. The lettering of the fresco is by the hand of the life prisoner who posed for Miss Cowles at the beginning of her prison work. Just beyond is a little old brick school house, still in use, on our left as we turn the corner toward Hartford, four miles away. After passing the baseball grounds, Armsmear, the estate of the Colt family, extends for some distance on the east, and bordering the river are the extensive plants of Colt's Firearms. To the left, on Rocky Hill, are the Trinity College buildings. We reach the center of Hartford via Wethersfield Ave. and Main St. 43.5 HARTFORD (R. l,p 111). R. 10 1. East Bank: Old Lyme to Hartford. 51.5 m. From Old Lyme this route runs northward through Lyme, East Haddam, Portland, and Glastonbury to East Hartford. The road is a trunk line State Road incomplete in portions. From Old Lyme the State Road follows northward over Lord Hill. To the north we look up the deep, narrow valley of the river. To the east is Rogers Lake surrounded by beautiful hills on which are numerous residences of old and modern times. To the west extends the broad estuary of the Connecticut with its numerous islands and coves. The river front is for the most part high, but is indented by Lords Cove, a famous resort for lovers of duck and rail shooting. At the summit of Lord Hill we cross the line into the town- ship of Lyme, and the road descends to the village of Hamburg (5.0), at the head of Hamburg Cove, the channel of which has recently been deepened by the Federal Government, making the village of Hamburg accessible for all small craft. Here Eight Mile River, coming down from the hills, flows into tidewater. The country to the north and east, is one of especial beauty. On Grassy Hill, two miles east, is a con- siderable colony of artists, including leading members of the profession. Nickersons Hill nearby is the highest spot in the county west of the Thames. The shores of Cedar, Norwich, Hogg, and Rogers ponds are lined with cottages and summer camps. On Rams Horn Creek is the retaining pond of the State Fish Hatchery. On Falls River there is a birch and witch hazel distillery, and a wood pulverizing mill on Eight Mile River. During the spring and fall the shad fisheries en- gage many of the men. The region, too, is noted for the pro- duction of Devon steers and working oxen. 300 HAMBURG EAST HAMPTON From Hamburg the State Road, not yet complete, approaches the river. To the west is Seldens Neck and the picturesque Selden Cove. We cross the town line into the township of East Haddam and the village of Hadlyme (9.0), with a steamer landing a mile to the west. There is a casket factory here. 12.0 EAST HADDAM. Pop (twp) 2422. Middlesex Co. Settled 1662. Mfg. cotton twine and sailcloth. Hartford-New York daily steamboat during season. The village of East Haddam lies directly on the river, where Salmon River comes down from the hills. A bridge across the Connecticut connects East Haddam and Moodus station on the valley division of the N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R. "The little old red school house," dating from about 1750, in which Nathan Hale, then eighteen, taught school in 1773, is still preserved. This is a region of especial scenic charm, and on the abruptly rising hills are many homelike-appearing residences and estates. The hills rise in Mt. Parnassus, three miles from the river, to a height of 616 feet. From East Haddam the still uncompleted State Road leads northward through the hills to Moodus (15.0). The village is situated on Moodus River, a swift stream rising from Salmon River Cove 350 feet in a distance of a little more than two and one half miles. Here was manufactured the first cotton seine twine, and that is now the principal in- dustry, although cotton duck is also made. Its name is con- tracted from the Indian Machimoodus, "the place of noises." The Rev. Stephen Hosmer in 1729 wrote to a friend in Boston, describing these strange noises: "Earthquakes have been here, as has been observed . . . for more than thirty years. . . . An old Indian was asked the reason of the noises in this place, to which he replied, that 'the Indians' God was very angry that the Englishmen's God was come there.' Now, whether there be anything diabolical in these things, I know not. ... I have myself heard eight or ten sounds suc- cessively, and imitating small arms, in the space of five minutes. I have, I suppose, heard several hundred of them within twenty years; some more, some less terrible. . . . They have in a manner ceased since the great earthquake." On the night of May 18, 1791, occurred an earthquake so violent as to be felt in both New York and Boston. Although but two shocks were felt at a distance, in Moodus there were between twenty and thirty. The ground was cracked, walls and chimneys were thrown down. An account written in 1831 by a gentleman who had resided here for "almost thirty years" tells us: "The awful noises about which Mr. Hosmer gave an account . . . continue to the present time. The effects they produce are various as the intermediate degrees between the roar of a cannon and the noise of a pistol." The early white settlers were as superstitious about this place as the Indians had been. A tradition tells of a "Dr. Steele" who imposed upon the good natives with his magic quackery whereby he sought to cure "the great carbuncle" he had discovered in the bowels of the earth, that caused these tremors. The highway, still under construction, runs northward over the hills, crossing the deep valley of Salmon River. R. 10 I. EAST BANK: OLD LYME TO HARTFORD 301 22.0 EAST HAMPTON. Alt 411 ft. Pop (twp) 2390. Middlesex Co. Inc. 1767. Mfg. bells, thread, and toys. Hartford- New York steamboat daily in season. This secluded industrial village lies a mile and a half to the east on the southern boundary of Lake Pocotopaug with its Twin Islands. In the eighteenth century East Hampton was a center of iron manu- factures, and early in the nineteenth century factories were established here for the manufacture of bells, brass kettles, pistols, and irons. Rev. John Norton, the minister here for thirty years from 1748, was one of the most famous "fighting parsons" of his time. A grad- uate of Yale, he had first served at Bernardston (p 329) and had been taken captive to Canada. In 1755 he joined the expedition to Crown Point as chaplain. The house of the Rev. Joel West, who was ordained minister here in 1702, still stands. His pretty wife Betsy was the sensation of the village. She arrived in a carriage- the first seen here, and she had the first carpet that ever came to the village. Her hair 'banged,' her gown of changeable silk over which she wore a red coat, and her swansdown-trimmed bonnet created sufficient com- ment to be recorded in the annals of the time. The cradle in which her twelve children were rocked is still preserved. The route turns left, paralleling the Willimantic division of the N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R., then enters the hamlet of Cobalt (25.0), which lies on a slope 200 feet above the river. A mile and a half to the south is Middle Haddam, formerly an im- portant boatbuilding place. From 1805 to 1835, in vessels, mostly seagoing, with a total tonnage of 27,000, were built. From Cobalt the completed State Road runs westward be- side the river and 100 feet or more above it. To the northeast is Great Hill (700 ft), about a mile north of Cobalt, which rises precipitously from the pond at its western foot. This hill was long called the ' Governor's Ring.' Governor John Winthrop was in 1661 granted the privilege of all gold mines as well as whale fishing in the neighborhood. There is little evidence that he accumulated wealth from this, but the people supposed that the gold rings he wore came from this hill. A mine was opened here in 1762 from which cobalt ore was obtained, which was exported to Europe and even to China. President Stiles of Yale wrote in his diary under date of Jan. i, 1787, the following entry: "Mr. Erkelens visited me full of his Cobalt mine and his China voyage. He some years ago bought the Governor's Ring, as it is called, or a mountain in the N.W. corner of East Haddam, comprehending about 800 acres, or about a square mile area. Here he finds plenty of Cobalt, which he manufactures into smalt; with which is made the beautiful blue on China ware, &c. Governor Trumbull has often told me that this was the place to which Governor Winthrop of N. London used to resort with his servant, and after spending three weeks in the woods of this mountain, in roasting ores and assaying metals and casting gold rings, he used to return home to New London with plenty of gold. Hence this is called the Gov. Winthrop's ring to this day." At various intervals during the first half of the nineteenth century adventurous individuals sank much good money in exploring the mineral contents of this hill. 302 PORTLAND HARTFORD 31.0 PORTLAND. Alt 90 ft. Pop (twp) 3425. Middlesex Co. Settled 1690. Mfg. shipbuilding and mineral products. This little riverside town is opposite Middletown (p 294), with which it is connected by a bridge. From here have come most of the brownstone fronts so essential to respectability in eastern cities, particularly New York and Brooklyn, during the latter half of the nineteenth century. As brownstone has become less fashionable the importance of the quarries has somewhat declined. The stone here quarried is the sandstone deposited during the Triassic period in the broad estuary that occupied the Connecticut valley lowland at that time, which because of its relative softness has weathered away more rapidly than the crystalline rock forming the Connecticut Valley lowland of today. From Portland the State Road runs northward, complete except for a stretch of a few miles near South Glastonbury (40.0). Here Roaring Brook, most picturesque of streams, comes tumbling down through a narrow gorge from the highlands above. On the river a mile west of the high road and village is the steamer landing. An oldtime ferry connects South Glastonbury with Rocky Hill. The broad meadow extending northward along the bank of the river still bears its Indian name of Hanabuc, or Nayaug, "noisy water." Everywhere there is abundant evidence of glaciation, and much of the pasture and farm land consists of a tumbled mass of washed drift in the form of irregular hills known to geologists as kames. A post- glacial terrace lying at a high level above Connecticut is very con- spicuous in the valley at Glastonbury. At the time of the white settlement Glastonbury was the site of a permanent village, near the mouth of Roaring Brook, of a small band of Mohawks located here to keep watch over the tributary Indian tribe and to make their lives a burden by the fear they inspired. They maintained two outlooks on the summit of Red Hill and Chestnut Hill, and in the bed of the brook may still be seen a pot-hole used by the Indians as a mortar for pounding samp. 45.0 GLASTONBURY. Alt 30 ft. Pop (twp) 4796. Hartford Co. Settled 1680. It was J. H. Hale, the 'Peach King,' who more than any other man in its history put Glastonbury on the map. He began in a small way with upland farms worth $10 an acre, and on this "barren" land proved that peaches could be pro- duced, unequaled in flavor, which would bring the highest prices in the nearby New England markets. Wealth has poured in upon him and is utilized in developing at Fort Valley in Georgia the greatest peach-growing industry of the world. This portion of the river is known as 'The Straits.' Its channel is deep and narrow, with the hills rising on either side abruptly to 500 feet. R. 10 2. EAST BANK: HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 303 The village lies back from the river at the base of the eastern hills. 'The Street,' lined by noble trees planted before the Revolution, has along its sides many old houses built by the early settlers, some of which are still occupied by lineal de- scendants. The Hollister and the Talcott houses have the oldtime jutting upper stories. The Welles family was one of the original proprietors of the town and has given many promi- nent men to the nation. The Welles estate was purchased by Thomas Welles from the great Indian sachem Sequasson, generally known as Sowheag, and remained in the family for more than 200 years. The beautiful old house of Gideon Welles still stands. He was a member of Lincoln's cabinet and has been brought to the public mind of late by the recent publica- tion of his journal of war times and his intimate view of inner political doings. Tobacco and peaches are important products, and the water- powers of the streams coursing down from the hills are used for various manufacturing industries. Once the Glastonburys had important shipyards and a share in the West India trade. The J. B. Williams Company, manufacturers of shaving soap and toilet articles, carry on the leading industry here today. Their plant covers several acres. A brand of men's under- wear, much illustrated in the backs of the magazines, is also made here. On the north hills are historic lead mines which supplied the Continental armies. The Glastonbury granite-gneiss forms the prominent ridges in this region, rising to heights of 600 feet. It is exposed on the hill north of the Great Hill Pond, where there is a quarry. The stone is a dark foliated gneiss of fine texture, with grains of yellow and green epidote. In the granite are pegmatite veins in which occur a great variety of minerals, some of them rare: "albite, quartz, muscovite, microcline, damourite, spodumene (and its alteration products), apatite, micro- lite, columbite, garnet, tourmaline, staurolite, eosphorite, dickinson- ite, triploidite, rhodochroside, reddingite, amblygonite (hebronite), vivianite, lithiophilite, uraninite, fairfieldite, fillowite, chabazite, kil- linite, natrophilite, hureaulite." From Glastonbury the State trunk line highway continues its level course through the meadows to 51. 5 HARTFORD (R.I, p 111). R. 10 2. East Bank: Hartford to Springfield. 27.0m. From Hartford to Springfield we may follow either the West Bank through Windsor with a possible detour through Sufneld, or the East Bank through Enfield, Thompsonville, and Long- meadow. This latter is described on Route i, 3 (p 118). Both routes are State Roads indicated by blue markers. 304 HARTFORD WINDSOR R. 10 2. West Bank: Hartford to Springfield. 26.0m. In leaving Hartford via Windsor Ave. we have the cemetery and Keney Park on our left. The highway from here was the first laid out in Connecticut, in 1638. The broad Connecticut flows placidly between fringing elms. The river terraces (p 24) are notably developed. The rich alluvial soil of the broad levels, still known as Plymouth Meadows, attracted the first settlement in this region. The land is now largely given over to market-gardening, and the houses so thickly border the road as to make almost a continuous village. 6.5 WINDSOR. Alt 61 ft. Pop 4178. Hartford Co. Settled 1633. Indian name Matianuck. Mfg. electric apparatus, hosiery, underwear, paper; market-gardening and tobacco-growing. Old Windsor is a quiet village rich in associations of the past. It is a "lovely old place, though, home of perpetual peace, a staid, frugal, dignified village," writes Edward Row- land Sill, one of Windsor's sons. The village preserves the line of the original settlement, one long street along the ter- race parallel with the river. It is divided by the Farmington river, which is crossed by a covered bridge with a long cause- way approach; to the south it is known as Broad St., to the north as Palisado Ave. South of the river is the present business center of the town and the village Green, formerly known as Bow Field Green. Facing the latter is the Campbell School for Girls and on it the Loomis Memorial fountain. The old Moore house of 1690 which formerly faced the Green now stands on Elm St. On the 'Island' south of the Farmington river is the old Loomis house, and here was opened in 1914 the Loomis Institute, incorporated in 1874, with an endowment of over $2,000,000. Near the river is the Eddy Electric Company's plant, now owned by the General Electric Company, employing about 300 hands. In the adjacent village of Poquonock are made hosiery, underwear, and paper. Across the Farmington river the tree-shaded Palisado Green is faced by some fine gambrel-roofed houses of the eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries, reminiscent of the time when Windsor was a port of entry and her merchants prosperously engaged in foreign commerce. The long, low white house where Sill was born on April 29, 1841, looks obliquely across the Green toward the old church. Here in Windsor his ancestors, maternal and paternal, lived from the foundation of the colony, when one of his forebears was the first minister of the church. Sill never lost his affec- tion for the ancient town, and in July, 1883, he writes: R. 10 2. WEST BANK: HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 305 "I am just back from a summering in the ancient and somnolent pastures of New England: some weeks at my old home, Windsor, in the Connecticut River Valley you remember how green and peaceful that region is, corn-fields and hay-fields, and elm-shaded streets and maple-shaded houses (with green blinds, mostly shut tight), and patches of their pretty woods. . . . What a dignity and placid reserve about the place! The houses all look like the country-seats of persons of great respectability who had retired on a competence and retired a great ways while they were about it. And what big houses they used to build! Used to, I say, because there isn't a house over there that looks less than a thousand years old: not that they look old as seeming worn or rickety at all, but old as being very stately and wise and im- perturbable. I am struck, all about here in Connecticut, with the well- kept-up look of the houses. Paint must be cheap no, 'tisn't that. Paint is probably pretty dear; but they believe in keeping every- thing slicked up. Yet there are a few oldest of the old houses that came out of the ark, I know." Windsor's proudest landmark is Elm wood, the Ellsworth mansion, two miles north of the Green on the right, now in the care of the Daughters of the Revolution. It stands on the homestead lot granted to Josiah Ellsworth in 1665. Originally it was the home of Oliver Ellsworth, prominent in the Con- tinental Congress, one of the framers of the Constitution, and appointed by Washington, Chief Justice of the United States. Men great in the history of the country have been entertained under its hospitable roof. Washington was a frequent visitor, and in 1789 wrote in his diary: "Wednesday, 2ist. By prom- ise 1 was to have Breakfasted at Mr. Ellsworth's at Windsor, on my way to Springfield, but the morning proving very wet, and the rain not ceasing till half after that hour. I called, however, on Mr. Ellsworth and stayed there near an hour." According to tradition Washington used to amuse the older Ellsworth children by dancing the younger ones on his crossed knee while he sang to them of the wonderful "Darby Ram." "The horns upon this ram, sir, They grew up to the moon, A man went up in January And didn't come down till June. And if you don't believe me, And think I tell a lie, Why just go down to Darbytown And see the same as I." When the early colonists of Massachusetts Bay "became like a hive overstocked with bees, and many thought of swarming into new plan- tations," as Cotton Mather said at that time, some of the more adven- turous pushed their way into the interior, and after crossing a rugged region of uplands and valleys came upon a fertile lowland through which ran the Connecticut river. Here the old settlements of Windsor, Hartford, and Wethersfield were founded. Beyond, the uplands rose even higher than before. Thus, as early as 1637 the broad depression worn down on the weak Triassic sandstones between the resistant crystalline rocks of the uplands exerted a determining influence on the history of New England. 306 WINDSOR SUFFIELD However geology may have determined the place of settlement, other causes gave impetus. The pestilential spirit of intolerance forbade the Puritans to grant any one "freedom to worship God" save after the Puritan manner. Seekers of further religious liberty were driven hither, only to repeat again the persecution which had been visited upon them. Windsor became 'The Mother of Towns,' in part because of the desire of her children to get out of leading strings; but in justice it must be added that of Windsor's original territory enough was sliced off at one time and another to make eight more townships. The first settlement was made in 1633 by the Plymouth Company in England, of which Lord Saye and Sele and John Hampden were stockholders. They equipped a "great new bark" which sailed from Plymouth, England, and up the Connecticut under the guns of the Dutch fort. An inscribed boulder marks the spot below the Farm- ington river where they landed and quickly "clapt up" the house which they had brought ready prepared. Two years later parties of malcontents from Dorchester in the Bay State began to arrive by sea and overland by the Old Connecticut Path, and not without protest from the Plymouth men settled on the rich Plymouth meadows, and their numbers, increasing more rapidly, eventually drove out the original settlers, more by might than right, though there was a more or less forced sale. Among these first settlers were Matthew Grant and Thomas Dewey, from whom were directly descended Gen. U. S. Grant and Admiral George Dewey. Windsor took the usual part of a frontier town in the Indian wars, and inaugurated witch-hanging in 1647 with one Alse Young. The Farmington river, then known as the Tunxis, the Indian name for "crane," in its time was alive with West India shipping. The macadam and concrete road from Windsor leads straight away, except for a sharp turn under R.R., beyond Windsor Green, through the rich alluvial country of the Connecticut, and paralleling the river from a quarter to a half mile from its banks. We are in the heart of the tobacco country in the region where it is so extensively grown under shade. Some of the areas of white billow- ing cloth are over 120 acres in extent. This plan of growing tobacco under shade dates only from 1901 and has brought about a revolu- tion in tobacco growing in the Connecticut valley. The Connecticut Tobacco Company, a Hartford corporation with a capitalization of $1,000,000, grows in this neighborhood some 600 acres under cloth. The purpose of shading is by tempering the effect of wind and rain to produce climatic conditions more favorable to the development of a high quality of wrapper leaf. It costs about $150 an acre to erect these cheese-cloth tents, but it pays because of the increased value of the leaf, for whereas the sun-grown may bring twenty cents per pound, shade-grown wrapper leaf brings from $1.25 to $3-00. The plants are set 1 200 to an acre and grow to a height of from seven to nine feet in shade. Each leaf is picked separately, and in the process of curing is handled some thirty-six times. Incidentally, after curing they are sorted into some twenty or more grades according to weight, size, grade, and texture. In 1914 Connecticut raised 35,754,000 pounds of tobacco, the most valuable crop in the State next to hay. 12.0 WINDSOR LOCKS. Alt 49 ft. Pop (twp) 3715. Inc. 1854. Mfg. paper, cotton warp, machinery, and underwear. This is an industrial town, utilizing the waterpower of the Connecticut, which is led to the mills through the old Enfield canal. The water is taken from the river at the dam some R. 10 2. WEST BANK: HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD 307 miles above, opposite Enfield, and discharges through the mill wheels into the Connecticut at this point. A suspension bridge connects the village with Warehouse Point opposite. A mile above is a great cantilever railroad bridge. A short half mile from the village are the Government Fish Hatcheries, where millions of speckled brook troutlings are annually hatched. This is the old 'Pine Meadow' of Colonial days. The village dates from about 1829, when a canal with locks was built around the rapids here to facilitate navigation between Hartford and Springfield. The canal is now used only to supply waterpower to the mills, but plans are on foot to open up navigation again and more fully utilize the 3O-foot head of water, which is capable of supplying electricity for half the State of Connecticut. Note. From Windsor Locks a road continues straight away, parallel with the river, through the township of Suffield, and crosses the Massachusetts State line (7.0). The blue-marked road through Suffield, a little longer, affords a better and more interesting route. At the fork beyond R.R. station leave trolley and passing under R.R. keep right, join trolley to 16.0 SUFFIELD. Alt 124 ft. Pop (twp) 3841. Inc. 1674 by Massachusetts. Mfg. cigars; tobacco-growing. Originally called Stony River, this settlement became South- field, and finally Suffield in 1674. It was spared the usual ravages of the Indian wars, for the Indians felt they had been paid a good price for the land, thirty pounds for the town site. Tobacco-growing, the secrets of which were learned from the Indians, has always been the chief interest, and as early as 1727 tobacco passed as legal tender. Here "genuine Spanish Cigars" were first made in New England by a Cuban tramp of intemperate habits who drifted here in 1810. This secluded village is said to have been the original home of the Connecticut peddlers, who even before the Revolution traveled from Quebec to Mobile, exchanging their tinware and Yankee notions for rags, which they sold to the paper mills then springing up in the Connecticut valley. Dr. Dwight, more than a century ago, observed that "A considerable number of the inhabitants of this part of the state have for many years employed themselves in peddling several kinds of articles, of small value, in many parts of this country. The pro- prietor loads with these one or more horses, and either travels himself or sends an agent, from place to place, until he has bartered or sold them. . . . The consequences of this employment, and of all others like it, are generally malignant. Men who begin life bargaining for small wares will almost invariably become sharpers." The village has a long, broad Green through its center, with the usual monument and D.A.R. memorial stone. The Con- 308 SUFFIELD WEST SPRINGFIELD necticut Literary Institution is an oldtime academy, and near it is the Kent Memorial Library. The house now used by the Ramapogue Historical Society as a museum was formerly a tavern, one of the few in this neighborhood which does not boast of having entertained George Washington. Giles Grange, a substantial Colonial dwelling with a side porch, was the home of Gideon Granger, the first Postmaster- general of the United States, and of his son Francis, who later held the same office. Dr. Sylvester Graham (1794-1851) was a native of Sufneld and an ardent vegetarian. He aroused the indignation of the bakers throughout the country by his invention and advocacy of a new kind of flour and bread which he claimed was more nutritive. Graham bread today perpetuates his name. General Phineas Lyman, the commander-in-chief of the Con- necticut troops in the French wars, though born at Durham, married and lived here. With 4000 Connecticut troops he was with Lord Amherst at the taking of Ticonderoga and Crown Point in 1759, and later on commanded the provincial troops in the disastrous campaign against Havana in 1762. From Sufneld we continue with trolley, turn right at cross- roads south of Buck Hill, rejoining the main road (19.5) about one mile south of the Massachusetts line, where the blue markers cease. Two miles beyond the State line we enter the long straggling village of Agawam (23.0). The name is Indian, meaning "meadow," and was formerly applied to all the region round about, including Springfield. Two miles west is Feeding Hills, so called because the settlers pastured their cattle on the level uplands at the foot of Proven Mountain, a long nar- row ridge of trap rock running north and south with a height of about 640 feet. The road for Springfield bears right at the end of the village and crosses the Connecticut on a long iron bridge. Above we see the North End Bridge, or Old Toll Bridge, an ancient covered wooden structure. To the south lies Forest Park, the gift of Everett Barney of Barney and Berry Skate fame, whose factory, residence, and mausoleum may be seen in the neighbor- hood. We follow Pecousic Ave. and Main St. to the heart of the city. 26.0 SPRINGFIELD (R. 1, p 121). Note. The direct route up the west bank curves left through crossroads and turns right at the hilltop beyond into Mit- tineague and West Springfield. Turn right on Elm St., and left at the bridge entrance, along the west bank. R. 10 3. WEST BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO GREENFIELD 309 R. 10 3. West Bank: Springfield to Greenfield. 37.0m. The north and south State Highway, marked by blue bands on poles and posts, crosses the river at Springfield and runs northward on the terraces high above the river and overlooking it, commanding fine views of the river and of Mts. Tom, Nonotuck, and Holyoke, peaks of the Holyoke range ahead. From the college town of Northampton the route follows northward over broad intervales, the richest agricultural region of New England. In many places the river terraces are so regular as to seem almost artificial. They show the levels of the river in prehistoric times. From Springfield follow Main St. north, bearing left on Plainfield St. and turning sharp right on West St. across the long iron bridge over the Connecticut into 1.5 WEST SPRINGFIELD. Alt 60 ft. Pop 9224 (1910), 11,339 (1915). Hampden Co. Settled 1655. Mfg. paper and wood pulp, oil and gasoline tanks, ice; market-gardening. The broad Common was used in Colonial days as a training ground and a grazing place for the village cattle. Burgoyne's captive army encamped here on their way to Boston. Beside it is the old Day house (1754), preserved by the Ramapogue Historical Society as a Colonial Museum and a center for social and historical work. On the east end of the Common was formerly a shipyard where boats were made for use on the Connecticut river. The steeple of the old white meeting house to the west on 'Mount Orthodox' is a conspicuous landmark for miles around. The church was built in 1800, and since 1900 has been used as a headquarters of the local Historical Society. A short distance above Mt. Orthodox is the home of the Springfield Country Club, a model of its kind. This is the center of the social life of greater Springfield; its grounds are on a commanding height overlooking miles upon miles of the river valley. The National Dairy Show will be held east of Chicago for the first time, from October 1 2th to 2 ist, on the grounds of the East- ern States Agricultural and Industrial Exposition, Inc. This latter is a permanent exposition intended to educate the public in New England's need of organized agriculture to increase home- grown food supplies for the millions of industrial workers in New England cities. The West Springfield freight yards are the most important clearing tracks for cars on the New York Central lines east of Buffalo and contain forty-one miles of tracks, bringing the village an annual tax of $22,000. The region about West Springfield has been well called the 310 WEST SPRINGFIELD HOLYOKE ' Garden Spot of the Valley,' as market-gardening has long been a lucrative source of income. In Thanksgiving week 125,000 roots of celery are shipped from here, much of it grown from imported French seed at $i an ounce, which proves more profit- able than native seed at 15 cents, as it gives an earlier crop. The State Highway, marked by blue bands, runs along the river through Ashley ville and Ingleside, avoiding the center of Holyoke, which lies in a bend of the river to the right (9.0). 8.7 HOLYOKE. Pop 57,730 (1910), 60,816 (1915); 20,000 foreign- born. Hampden Co. Settled 1745. Inc. 1850. Mfg. writ- ing paper, envelopes, blank books, silk, machinery, screws, wire, belting, cotton and woolen goods. Value of product, (1913) $44,470,000; Payroll, $9,186,000. Holyoke, commonly known as the 'Paper City,' is the largest producer of fine writing paper and envelopes in the United States. Over 5000 people are employed in twenty-six fac- tories, and the daily output is 500 tons in this one industry. The cotton and woolen industries located here employ 5000 hands. All of these factories take full advantage of the 30,000 h.p. of the South Hadley falls. It is also a tobacco- growing region. The South Hadley falls, which furnish the fine waterpower here, attracted the attention of Timothy Dwight early in the nineteenth century, who speaks of "the fantastic beauty and sublime majesty of these Falls." The first settlement was by a venturesome family of Rileys about a decade before the outbreak of King Philip's War. Originally a part of Spring- field, it was known as 'Ireland Parish,' but later named for Elizur Holyoke, a man of wealth and prominence in the Springfield of that time. The importance of Holyoke as an industrial center came with the' damming of the Hadley falls in 1848. Shrewd pro- moters, among whom the Perkinses, Lymans, and Dwights were conspicuously prominent, foreseeing the importance of this waterpower, gobbled it up, first securing the necessary lands from the farmers through an affable and noncommittal agent. The dam when completed in 1848 created the greatest waterpower that had up to that time ever been harnessed. It was an unprecedented undertaking and naturally met with difficulties. The story of the inauguration and collapse is graphically told in telegrams sent to the Boston office: "10 A.M. Gates just closed: water filling behind dam." "12 M. Dam leaking badly." "2 P.M. Stones of bulkhead giving way to pressure." "3.20 P.M. Your old dam's gone to hell by way of Willi- mansett." The present great stone dam, completed in 1904 at a cost R. 10 3. WEST BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO GREENFIELD 311 of $750,000, is 1020 feet long, 38 feet high, and 34 feet wide at the base. Behind it the water generates 30,000 h.p., which is distributed to the mills by a canal system five miles long. The streets of the city have been laid out largely in relation to the canal system. There is a group of handsome public buildings of which perhaps the finest is the City Hall, of rough split granite with a tower 215 feet high. Although Holyoke is a modern city there are a few landmarks of early days. Holyoke started its manufacturing career as a cotton mill city, but the combination of a great waterpower, the wood pulp of the Hoosac forests, and the waste rags of the textile industries, made it a great paper center. It is one of the most progressive cities in New England, and to the fore in civic improvements. It owns and operates the water works and gas and electric plants. The first paper mill was built by Joseph C. Parsons during the 'so's of the last century. From that time on the mills increased rapidly. In i8gg, at the height of the trust-making boom, just before trust busting became popular, seventeen paper mills of Holyoke consolidated with twelve mills located elsewhere, forming the American Writing Paper Company, with a paper capital of $25,000,000, one of the worst examples of over-capitalization and high finance inflation on record. Since then the stocks, and even the bonds, have been quoted in fractions. The United States Envelope Company of Springfield and Holyoke, representing the consolidation of eleven large factories, manu- factures more envelopes than any other concern in the world. The American Thread Company and the Skinner Silk Mills are large con- cerns in the textile industry of Holyoke. On Northampton St. is the Brown house, probably the oldest in the city, and further north the old tavern, once a half-way house on the stage route between Springfield and Northampton. Still further north on the same street is the Fairfield homestead. These houses were built in 1774 while the territory was a parish of Springfield. Just beyond Holyoke a road to the left over the shoulder of Mt. Tom leads direct to Easthampton. The blue-marked highway continues by the river and passes through the gap in the Holyoke Range. Mt. Tom (1214 ft), the highest mountain in this part of New England, rises from the river valley between Holyoke and Easthampton. This is the culmination of a long ridge of hard trap rock rising from the alluvial plain which resisted the wearing-down process of glacial action. From Holyoke there is an electric railway to the summit, where there is a hotel. The beautiful and extensive view of the Connecticut valley is justly considered to be one of the finest in Massachusetts, although perhaps it is not as striking as the view from Mt. Holyoke (954 ft) across the valley. Mountain Park with an area of 400 acres, the largest street-railway park in the world, extends from the base of Mt. Tom to the Connecticut. An inclined railway and a good road lead to the summit. 312 HOLYOKE NORTHAMPTON Note. From Mt. Tom R.R. station (14.5) a detour leads by the road to the left to Easthampton (3.0), whence there is a direct highway to Northampton (7.0). EASTHAMPTON. Pop 8524 (1910), 9845 (1915). Hampshire Co. Settled 1725. Indian name Nashawannuck. Mfg. cotton, rubber thread, artificial stone, brick and tile, felt, foundry and machine shop products, and elastic woven goods; dyeing and finishing textiles. This is a tree-shaded town in the rich intervales of the river valley, guarded on the east by Mt. Tom and on the west by Mt. Pomeroy (1233 ft), noted for the manufacture of buttons and elastic goods, and the home of Williston Seminary. With its line of factories hidden by trees Easthampton pre- sents a rare mingling of New England industrialism with New England beauty. The fine tree-lined main street leads to the Park, before which is the little Mayher fountain. At the corner of Prospect and Pleasant Sts. is the Ferry house, proba- bly the oldest in the town. The cotton mills of the West Boylston Company at the north end of the town form one of the most beautifully located plants in New England. It is on the site of the cotton mill established by Samuel Williston. About seventy-five years ago the town was waked up by Samuel Williston, who started his career by covering buttons at home, with his wife's aid. He invented machinery for the process and finally built a large button factory, founding the concern now known as the United Button Company. He also started cotton mills and the rubber thread industry here. His various enterprises brought him a large fortune. In 1841 he founded Williston Seminary, and afterwards gave large sums to Amherst College, Mount Holyoke, etc. East- hampton became a community of thriving industries, largely due to the inventive genius and energy of one man. The Nashawannuc Manufacturing Company was the first concern in the country to introduce woven threads into rubber goods to make them elastic. Other concerns are the Glendale Elastic Fabrics Company, the Co' ton Manufacturing Company, elastic goods, the Easthampton Rubber Thread Company, the Dibble & Warner Company, wellknown makers of suspenders, the West Boylston Company, cotton yarns and fabrics, and the Hampton Mills Company, bleachers and dyers. The elastic goods industry represents about half the total product. From Easthampton a State Road leads north direct to Northampton, entering on South St. The State Highway from Mt. Tom crosses the famous Ox Bow of the river. This was formerly the ship channel. 17.0 NORTHAMPTON. Alt 124 ft. Pop 19,431 (1910), 21,654 (1915). Hampshire Co. Settled 1654. Indian name Nono- tuck. Mfg. cutlery, baskets, silk stockings, and thread. Northampton, a famous educational center, and the home of R. 10 3. WEST BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO GREENFIELD 313 Smith College, is beautifully situated in the midst of the fertile intervales of the west side of the valley. This most beautiful city of the 'college county' is noted for the fine buildings of its schools, its magnificent elms, and fine old estates. The buildings of Smith College have a fine situation on a hill behind a fringe of elms and form perhaps the chief attrac- tion of Northampton. In John M. Greene Hall, one of the more recent and" conspicuous of the buildings, is the new memorial organ, said to be one of the finest in the United States. The college was founded and endowed by Miss Sophia Smith of Hatfield in 1871, and today, with an enrollment of 1724 students, it is the largest college for women in the world. Facing the college grounds are the Burnham School for Girls (p 8co) and Miss Capen's School. West of the college grounds is Paradise Pond, so named by Jenny Lind. Here the college girls enjoy canoeing in the Spring and Fall, and hold their ice carnivals in the winter. On one side is the estate of Mr. George B. McCallum, the silk stocking manufacturer. Mr. George Cable writes: "The bluffs in 'Paradise' suddenly sink to the river seventy feet below, canopied and curtained by a dense foliage of pine and hemlocks. . . . The sounds of nature alone fill the air; song of birds, chirp of insects, the rattle of the kingfisher, the soft scamper of the chipmunk, the drone of the bees, or the pretty scoldings of the red squirrel. A boat rowed by college girls may pass in silence, or with a song. ... Of trees and perennial shrubs and vines alone, I have counted in 'Paradise' more than seventy species." Here is Tarryawhile, the home of Mr. Cable, on Dryads Green, just off Elm St. It is a southern Colonial house, sur- rounded by well-ordered lawns. Mr. Cable, the master of the Creole story, deserted New Orleans for Northampton in 1886. Here he wrote "The Cavalier" and many of his later works. He has been a moving spirit in civic life, and is the honored president of the People's Institute, formerly the Home Culture Clubs. The Old College Bookstore, established in 1797, has had many famous people at its counters. Clifton Johnson, the wellknown writer, was a clerk here for a time. Like many of the cities of Europe, Northampton has a municipal theater, the only one in the United States, in its Academy of Music, which was given to the city by the late Mr. E. H. R. Lyman. Meeting House Hill was for generations the center of Northampton political and religious life. In the present Meet- ing House is a bronze memorial tablet with a bas-relief of Jonathan Edwards, who was pastor from 1727 to 1750. In the former old brick court house Webster and Choate have held forth. The beautiful old church that stood on this site 314 NORTHAMPTON HATFIELD was burned down in 1876. Jenny Lind during her triumphal tour of America gave a concert here in the old church in June, 1851. She was charmed with Northampton, and returned in January, 1852, after she had married the German pianist Otto Goldschmidt in Boston. She passed her honeymoon at the Round Hill Hotel. On Round Hill north of the college are beautiful estates. The Round Hill School, founded in 1823 by the historian George Bancroft and the author J. G. Cogswell, was located here in a building afterward used as a hotel. The two had just returned from German universities and here for the first time introduced many features of the German educational scheme which have since been adopted throughout the country in our secondary schools. Here also is the Clarke Institute for the Deaf, founded and endowed in 1867 by John C. Clarke, a wealthy merchant of the city. About a mile to the southwest is the State Hospital for the Insane, a group of fine buildings conspicuously situated on a hill which slopes gradually to Mill River. The college community has fostered the development of many interesting eating-places, The Copper Kettle, The Lonesome Pine, and the wellknown Rose Tree Inn, which "has no branches" but "blooms all the year." The latter, in the eastern part of the town, just off the trolley line to Amherst, is a long, low rustic house quite covered with rambler roses. The owner, Mme. A. de Naucaze, manifests an amusing and profitable eccentricity in such notices as "We can accommodate any number of guests at any time. If you descend in an aeroplane we will be ready for you, but we much prefer to have you telephone." "Take the cash and let the credit go." The Smith Agricultural School, opened in 1908, occupies a handsome building on Locust St. The boys receive an in- dustrial and agricultural training and the girls a training in domestic science. Oliver Smith of Hatfield died in 1845 leaving the sum of $370,000 to establish what are now known as the Smith Charities. The region known as Northampton was bought from the Indians in 1653, and granted the following year by John Pynchon, Elizur Holyoke, and Samuel Chapin, the 'three mighties' of Springfield, to the original planters, twenty-one in number. The original settlement was within the area bounded by Market, Hawley, Pleasant, and King Sts. The Indians were friendly up to the time of King Philip's War, but from then Northampton was subject to frequent raids. In 1690 the town was surrounded by palisades, and during the French and Indian War, in 1745, it was strengthened by log towers called " mounds." Northampton has produced a rare group of exceptional men and is rich in literary associations. The three Timothy D wights were natives of the town. The third became President of Yale College and wrote his interesting travels, the first guide book of New England. R. 10 3. WEST BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO GREENFIELD 315 The Whitneys, related to the Dwights, were quite as eminent. Josiah Dwight Whitney, the prominent Harvard geologist, for whom the highest mountain in the United States is named, and William D. Whitney, Yale's great philologist, were brought up in the Whitney homestead on King St., which occupies the site of Jonathan Edwards' old house, and before which stood the famous Edwards elm. On Pleasant St. is the old house erected in 1684 by Parson Stoddard, and occupied during his long ministry of fifty-seven years. Oliver Wendell Holmes was a lover of Northampton, and many of the scenes of "Elsie Venner" are laid about here. He says of the city: "She, with her fair meadows and noble stream, is lovely enough, but she owes her surpassing attraction to those twin summits which brood her like living presences, looking down into her streets as if they were her tutelary divinities. . . . Happy is the child whose first dreams of heaven are blended with the evening glories of Mount Holyoke, when the sun is firing its treetops and gilding the white walls that mark its one human dwelling!" Edmund C. Stedman, too, loved Northampton. His lines, written from High Ridge, Williamsburg, pay tribute. The two "warders" are Mt. Tom and Mt. Holyoke. "There still the giant warders stand, And watch the currents downward flow, And westward still with steady hand The river bends her silver bow." Dr. J. G. Holland chose the 'Meadow City,' as Northampton has picturesquely been called, for the opening scene of his "Kathrina": "Queen village of the meads Fronting the sunrise and in beauty throned, With jeweled homes around her lifted brow And coronal of ancient trees: Northampton sits, and rules her pleasant realm." Elm and Locust Streets lead to the suburb of Florence, and on, via Williamsburg and Cummington, to Ashfield and Pitts- field, Route 14. Bridge Street, crossing the river, follows the State Highway to Hadley and Amherst (p 323). From Northampton the route runs northward on King St., crossing under and over R.R., following the blue bands and keeping to the west of R.R. tracks. Note. Beyond Northampton (19.5) a good road leads east to Hatfield (2.5). HATFIELD. Alt 149 ft. Pop 1986 (1910), 2630 (1915). Hampshire Co. Inc. 1670. Indian name Capawonk. Mfg. electrical machinery, and foundry and machine-shop products. Hatfield, a pleasant old historic village, lies in the midst of the level meadows of the west bank of the Connecticut a short distance above Hadley, across the river. It seems to be always 'cleaned up' to make a good appearance before strangers. This region was foimcrly noted for sleek cattle and still produces fine tobacco crops. The meeting house with four beautiful Ionic columns in front was erected in 1849, replacing an earlier one which was moved from the present site and is now used as a barn behind 316 HATFIELD DEERFIELD F. H. BardwelTs residence. It was in this old church that the representatives of fifty towns met in the August convention and drew up their list of twenty-five "grievances" that pre- ceded Shays' Rebellion. There are some fine old houses with interesting doorways. At the corner of Elm and Prospect Sts. is the Hubbard resi- dence, formerly an inn, with well-proportioned rooms and fine old furniture. On Main St. is Mr. Reuben F. Wells' gambrel- roofed house, more than two centuries old. On the right at the extreme southern end of the street is the Mrs. Chloe Morton house (1750), with a fine doorway. The old Colonial residence in which Sophia Smith and her sisters lived for so many years still stands on Main St. This house, built in the architecture of about 1780, the birthplace of Sophia Smith, founder of Smith College, has lately been purchased by the Alumnae Association, restored by the Class of '96 as a reunion gift, and will be used as a place of rest and recreation for alumnae and undergraduates. Opposite is the 'Partridge' elm, now much patched with plaster. This tree is sometimes called the 'Jenny Lind' elm because of a tradition that the famous singer visited Hatfield while at Northampton, and sang a ballad to the townspeople under the tree The next house north, with the Colonial porch, was built by Sophia Smith, and here she spent the last years of her life. The next house beyond is the home of Mr. Daniel G. Wells, president of the Smith Charities. The house was formerly a tavern, and lotteries were held in it to raise money for the building of bridges across the river. Just beyond and across the street is the Billings house with a Colonial doorway. Next to this is the Memorial Hall given to the town by the late Samuel H. Dickinson, containing a collection of early town relics. The Hatfield Inn at the north end of the street was opened as a tavern about 1824. Oliver Smith, uncle of Sophia, lived at the inn. He was a thrifty country banker, charitable, but saving. He lived on about $600 a year, and on his death in 1845 he left the most of his estate, valued at some $370,000, an immense fortune for the time and place, to the "Smith Charities" (p 314). The remarkable will was contested by Mr. Smith's relatives, but they failed to break it. In this famous controversy the trustees employed Daniel Webster, and the con- testants Rufus Choate. Miss Sophia Smith, the niece, who died in 1870, left $75,000 for the building and endowment of Hatfield Academy, and $500,000 for the foundation of the famous woman's college at Northampton. The town was separated from Hadley in 1670. In 1675 Hatfield was attacked by 800 Indians and desperately defended, though many of the houses were burned. The settlers were prepared for the attack, for an old squaw taken captive had divulged the plan. Captain Moseley, who was in command, in reporting to the GovetaQI 9.1 Boston, tersely tells of her fate: R. 10 3. WEST BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO GREENFIELD 317 "The aforesaid Indian was ordered to be tourne in peeces by dogs & shee was so delt withall." The plan of attack as designed by King Philip was explained by Roger Williams, writing_ from Providence to the Bay State Governor, "by trayning, and drilling, and seeming flight" into "such places as are full of long grass, flags, sedge &c. and then environ them round with fire, smoke, and bullets." "Some say no wise soldier will be so catcht." But several of Moseley's mounted scouts were just so "catcht" and carried off as prisoners. One of the unhappy men was afterward horribly tormented. They burned his nails, and put his feet to scald against the fire, and drove a stake through one of his feet to pin him to the ground. Needless to say, he died from his torments. The State Highway continues northward parallel with R.R. and distant from the river about two miles through West Hat- field, North Hatfield, Whately, and South Deerfield (28.5). To the right are North and South Sugarloaf, isolated rock masses, the summits of which command magnificent views. On the face of South Sugarloaf a shelf of rock juts out, called King Philip's Chair, from the legend that he here watched the ambuscade of his planning. Just beyond the village the highway crosses Bloody Brook, and here a shaft of stone marks the site of where "The Flower of Essex" was annihilated. On Sept. 1 8, 1675, to quote the old chronicler, "a choice com- pany of young men, the very flower of Essex County, none of whom were ashamed to speak with the enemy in the gate, under command of Captain Lothrop," were convoying a train of ox teams hauling wheat from Deerfield to Hadley. They stopped along the way to refresh themselves from the abundance of wild grapes which grew along the stream. A thousand hidden warriors Nipmucks, Wampanoags, and Pocumtucks with fierce warwhoops suddenly poured a murderous volley upon them from the forest. Lothrop and more than sixty of his men were slain. Since then the sluggish stream has borne its crimson name. The common grave in which the dead were buried is marked by a flat stone, now in a front yard close to the sidewalk of the South Deerfield main street. At the dedi- cation of the battle monument in 1835, Edward Everett de- livered the oration, and for subsequent observances Edward Everett Hale wrote his ballad of "Bloody Brook." The highway runs through the old South Meadows bordering the Deerfield river. A great elm here, known as the Fish Fry Tree, is a favorite resort for picnickers. Across the river is Harrows Meadow. To the right is Pocumtuck Mountain (822 ft). 33.5 DEERFIELD. Alt 152 ft. Pop 2209 (1910), 2739 (1915). Franklin Co. Settled 1671. Indian name Pocumtuck. Mfg. pocketbooks. B. & M. R.R. repair shop. Old Deerfield extends along one wide thoroughfare on a ter- race overlooking the valley. It is frequently spoken of as 3l8 ' DEERFIELD GREENFIELD 'The Street,* or 'Old Street.' Its natural beauty and his- toric interest attract many visitors. Deerfield was one of the first towns to take up the modern arts and crafts movement. Since 1896 many of the old house- hold industries have been revived and made financially success- ful. Rag rugs, embroidery, wrought-iron, furniture, and metal work are annually exhibited in the village headquarters, a two- century old house. There are some fine old houses along 'The Street.' The Parson Williams house (1707) stands well back from the village street. It was moved from the site of the original parsonage of 1686 to make room for the Dickinson High School. Though the house has suffered changes some features remain un- unaltered. In 1739 this house passed to Consider Dickinson, a vigorous soul, who remarried at the age of 79. His estate, left to his wife in trust for the public welfare, went eventually to Deerfield Academy and Dickinson High School. The Pocum- tuck Valley Memorial Association, chartered in 1870, now owns and occupies the old academy building of 1797, which it secured when the new Free Dickinson Academy was estab- lished in 1878. Here has been gathered together an interest- ing and characteristic collection of Indian relics, and imple- ments, utensils, and household belongings of the early settlers. Opposite the Williams house is the birthplace of Edward Hitchcock, once President of Amherst, but more famous as a geologist. Just to the west is "the little brown house on the Albany Road," as Mr. George Sheldon of Deerfield has so aptly named it. It was once the studio of the noted artist George Fuller, and is still owned by his descendants. It has also been the home of General Hoyt, uncle of Edward Hitchcock, and it is said that the two used to sit and study Edward's lessons together in the branches of the great elm in front of the studio. The Frary house (1683-98) is the oldest in the county. In Revolutionary times it was Salah Barnard's Tavern, where in 1775 Benedict Arnold closed a contract for supplies for the army. The present church dates from 1824. It possesses interesting silver and pewter. A tablet opposite it marks the site of Ensign John Sheldon's house, which withstood the attack of 1704. The door, preserved in Memorial Hall, attests the fury of the blows dealt upon it. The gambrel-roofed extension of the Willard house dates from 1694 and the main body of the structure from 1768. This latter portion is interesting because Joseph Barnard spent thirteen years in selecting wood without knots for its con- struction. Dr. Willard, an abolitionist of the '3o's, and the first Unitarian minister in western Massachusetts, entertained R. 10 3. WEST BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO GREENFIELD 319 many distinguished guests here, among them Charles Sumner, Horace Greeley, and Emerson. Deerfield's history is one of battle, murder, and sudden death, of abductions and tortures, captures and rescues. The northwest frontier settlement of New England, it was for thirty years exposed to frequent attack. This territory, known as Pocumtuck, was granted in 1654 to the town of Dedham in exchange for land at Natick granted to the Apostle Eliot for an Indian settlement. Though the Dedham people grumbled at the exchange they accepted it, and sold their rights to John Pynchon of Springfield in 1666-67. He settled with the Pocum- tuck Indians at the rate of four pence per acre. At the outbreak of King Philip's War, Deerfield had about 125 inhabitants, whose houses were scattered the length of the 'Old Street.' There were three garrison houses, protected by palisades, and opposite the present Common stood Stockwell Fort. On the first of September, 1675, Deerfield was attacked and burned. Northfield was similarly sur- prised the following day and consequently abandoned, leaving Deer- field the only outpost. On September 12 the place was again attacked, though the savages were driven off after they had burned many houses. It was in response to these attacks that Captain Lothrop was sent to the relief of the town, resulting in the massacre at Bloody Brook as he returned. Following this Deerfield was abandoned until 1682. It was during Father Rale's War that the great Deerfield massacre occurred, of which the Rev. John Williams gives so stirring an account in "The Redeemed Captive." "On the twenty-ninth of February, 1704," he says, "not long before break of day, the enemy came in like a flood upon us; our watch being unfaithful." A force of 340 French and Indians under Sir Hertel de Rouville massacred 49 men, women, and children, burned the town, and took in captives, of whom 20 were killed on the way back to Canada. All the horror of the massacre and the torture of the long march through the snow is, with full dramatic power and much pious moralizing, brought out by the Rev. John Williams in his narrative. Mrs. Williams was murdered "by rage ye barbarous enemy" in the Leyden Gorge, four miles north of Greenfield, and other weakly captives soon shared her fate. A tablet now marks the stop where on the first Sunday of their march north John Williams preached the first sermon in the territory now Vermont, from the text, "My virgins and my young men are gone into captivity." Most of the prisoners were finally exchanged, though 28 of them, mostly children, joined the Roman Church and remained in Canada, "whence kindred blood now rattles bad French in Canada, or sputters Indian in the north and northwest." The pastor's little daughter, Eunice, who was seven years old when cap- tured, married an Indian and occasionally in after years visited her brother at Longmeadow with members of her tribe (p 120). At Cheapside the highway crosses the Deerfield river by a covered bridge a mile above its junction with the Connecticut, and bears left, crossing R.R. The road to the right leads to Montague City and Turners Falls, where it joins Route 15. 37.0 GREENFIELD. Alt 204 ft. Pop 10,427 (1910), 12,618 (1915). County-seat of Franklin Co. Settled 1687. Mfg. taps and dies, small tools, machinery, cutlery, and pocketbooks. This is the world's greatest tap and die town, and, though its manufacturing is so prosperous, the population having doubled in the last fifteen years, it is a town of quiet beauty and attrac- 320 GREENFIELD CHICOPEE tiveness. Though manufacturing has brought a large influx of foreign-born, the families of the early settlers, the Smeads, the Hinsdales, the Nashes, the Grinnells, and the Aikens are still numerous. The town is modern in appearance, but the rooms of the Historical Society contain interesting col- lections and relics. The Greenfield Tap and Die Corporation is a consolidation of three earlier firms. Though each plant is distinct, work among them is interchangeable. In addition to taps and dies, screw and thread cutting machines, reamers, gauges, etc., are manufactured. Green River flows through the town from the north into the Deerfield. Its Indian name, Picomegan, meant "boring river." Con way Street leads north (4.0) to the mouth of Leyden Gorge. At Nash's Mill, in front of the 2oo-year-old church, stands a tablet marking the spot where the brave William Turner met his death after his brilliant exploit at Turners Falls a few days before, which hastened the end of King Philip's War. Across the river and up the hill a plain granite slab bears this inscription: '"The Cruel and Bloodthirsty/ Savage who took her, slew her/ with his hatchet at one stroke.' Rev. John Williams,/ of Deerfield,/ The 'Redeemed Captive';/ so wrote of his Wife,/ Mrs. Eunice Williams,/ Who was killed at this place/ March i, 1704.7 Erected by P. V. M. A. Aug. 12, l88 4 ." Southwest of the town is the mountain mass known as Arthur's Seat (927 ft). To the east Rocky Mountain rises between the city and the Connecticut river. On its summit is a square stone observation tower at the spot called Poet's Seat (480 ft) because Frederick Tuckermann, a local bard, frequently sought the quiet and grandeur of the place. The southern end of the rocky ridge is a rugged bluff from which local tradition says King Philip watched the movements of his enemies. On the slope a little way below is a cave called the Bear's Den. Land was first taken up here in 1687, when this was a part of Deer- field. It became a separate town in 1753. Greenfield's trade dates from 1792, when the Locks' & Canals Company started a landing place at Cheapside just above the mouth of the Deerfield river. The flat- bottomed boats from Hartford were poled up, laden with East Indian goods to be exchanged for lumber and farm products, and so the East and West met in this frontier settlement. The town thus became something of a commercial center, as it is even today. Among the first manufactures was iron from the crude ore of Bernardston. The Greenfield Tap and Die Corporation and the Goodell-Pratt Company are the leading tool makers today. R. 10 3. E. BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO MILLERS FALLS 321 R. 10 3. East Bank: Springfield to Millers Falls. 40.0 m. After passing through the manufacturing towns of Chicopee Falls and South Hadley Falls, this route runs through a broken hill region dominated by the Mt. Holyoke range, in which are the quiet academic towns of South Hadley and Amherst and the beautiful village of Hadley. The route follows State and Town Roads not designated by any marking system. From Springfield follow State St. and at Federal Square turn left on St. James Ave., an excellent cement road direct to Chicopee Falls. An indifferent alternate route leads to Willimansett and the main route via Bright wood and Chicopee. 4.0 CHICOPEE FALLS. Alt 140 ft (part of Chicopee). The enormous plant of the Fisk Rubber Company, manu- facturers of automobile tires, is the most conspicuous feature. There are twenty buildings with twenty-nine acres of floor space and a capacity of 12,000 tires daily. The Westinghouse Company has taken over the plants of the former Stevens Arms and the Stevens-Duryea Automobile Companies, and has here created a great war plant for the manufacture of rifles. Edward Bellamy, whose "Looking Backward; 2000-1887" made him famous, was born here in 1850 while his father was the local Baptist minister. Two miles west, down the Chicopee river, is the busy town of CHICOPEE. Alt 130 ft. Pop 25,401 (1910), 30,138 (1915). Hamp- den Co. Settled 1638. Indian name, "birch bark place." Mfg. automobile tires, firearms, sporting goods, and cotton. Value of Products (1913), $31,126,000; Payroll, $5,390,000. Chicopee is a manufacturing town, utilizing the waterpower of the Chicopee river, which falls seventy feet in less than three miles. Two large cotton factories with 200,000 spindles em- ploy 7000 hands and annually produce three million dollars' worth of goods. The only surviving department of the Ames Manufacturing Company manufactures swords, regalia, and also padlocks. The A. G. Spalding & Bros. Company, manu- facturers of sporting goods, occupy the old Ames plant. Iron works were established here at the close of the Revolution, making use of the bog iron ore of the neighborhood. The water- power of the river was first developed about 1820 by paper and cotton mills, and later by the great Ames Manufacturing Company, which during the Civil War manufactured over a thousand cannon as well as other war material. In the bronze foundry of this company, now dis- continued, were cast the bronze doors of the Washington Capitol, almost the first work of this kind to be done in America, the bronze doors of the House of Representatives having been cast in Munich. The Concord "Minute Man" was also cast here. From the Falls an excellent road leads northward through Aldenville to Willimansett (6.8), where there is a bridge to 322 CHICOPEE HADLEY Holyoke and the West Bank, and on to South Hadley Falls (8.8), opposite the city of Holyoke (p 310). The mills close to the river of the Hampshire Paper Company, manufactur- ing Old Hampshire Bond exclusively, are conspicuous. Two State Roads continue from the Falls, the righthand leading northeast to Granby and Belchertown, the other, fol- lowing the trolley for three and a half miles in sight of Mts. Torn and Holyoke, entering the historic elm-shaded street of 12.0 SOUTH HADLEY. Alt 200 ft. Pop (twp) 4894 (1910), 5179 (1915). Hampshire Co. Settled 1720. Mfg. boxes, cotton, paper and wood pulp, brick and tile; tobacco-growing. In the heart of the village on the right are the grounds and twenty-five buildings of Mount Holyoke College, the oldest college for women in America. In 1835 Mary Lyon decided to remove her seminary from Ipswich to the Connecticut valley. Several towns competed for the honor, which South Hadley won by raising $8000, a large sum for that day. Within the first fifty years Mount Holyoke sent out 1 78 missionaries. In the 'Old White Church,' built in 1844, Mary Lyon's funeral was held. On the right are the new student alumnae hall, marked by towers and an arcade; Skinner recitation hall; the Field Memorial gateway; Mary Lyon Hall, contain- ing chapel and administration offices, on the site of the old seminary building; the library and the D wight Memorial art building on the site of the old Dwight homestead. Residence halls, science buildings, gymnasium, a central power house, and plant houses further from the street are visible through the trees. The campus of 150 acres includes wide lawns and gardens, a stream and two small lakes, and a forest-covered hill on which there is a woodland theater in which May Day and Commencement plays are given each year. At the center of the campus, in a lovely grove, is Mary Lyon's grave, back of which, on a slope, is a large open-air auditorium. On the left of the street, opposite Mary Lyon Hall, is the Gaylord Memorial Library, also Pearsons Hall, a college dormitory, and the President's house. A number of the oldest houses in the village are marked by eighteenth century dates above their doors. The oldest (1732), at the north end of the Common, was built as the first meeting house, but was later made into a dwelling house. A portion of the first parsonage ( r 733) survives as a wing of the Eastman homestead, a fine old house now owned by Joseph A. Skinner, of the Skinner silk mills in Holyoke, as is another most attractive Colonial house known as The Sycamores (1788), now rented to the college, for students. These two and Mr. Skinner's large R. 10 3. E. BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO MILLERS FALLS 323 modern residence occupy a long stretch on the left of Wood- bridge St., a half mile beyond the church. Opposite The Sycamores, and just around the corner on Silver St., is the Lovell house (1742), built for the Rev. John Woodbridge. Note. From the Common the road to the right with trolley, State Highway most of the way, leads upgrade through 'The Notch' between Bear Mountain and Norwottock of the Holyoke range direct to Amherst (9.5). The road to the left leads to the river. From its second fork, the main route to Hadley leads right, goes through the Pass of Thermopylae between the mountain and the river, skirting the wild trap rock cliff known as 'Titan's Pier.' A road diverging from this, good macadam, 20 feet wide and three quarters of a mile long, with a maximum grade of 10 per cent, leads to the summit house on Mt. Holyoke (955 ft). It may also be reached from the half way house by the incline railway, which in its 600 feet of incline rises 365 feet. It has been called "the gem of Massachusetts mountains," and the celebrated view from its summit is probably the richest in New England. This mass of trap rock, which rises 830 feet above the Connecticut, is part of the system of Triassic trap ridges stretching northward from West Rock at New Haven (p 93). The Mt. Holyoke House occupies the site of a hotel built in 1821. The view stretches down the Connecticut past Springfield and Hartford to East and West Rocks at New Haven, a distance of seventy miles. Thirty-five miles away to the east is Mt. Wachusett, and fifty miles to the northeast is Monadnock, with Amherst in the foreground. To the north is Hadley, and beyond, Mt. Toby and Sugarloaf , capped in the distance by the blue peaks of the Green Mountains. North- ampton and Mt. Tom with the Berkshires and Greylock on the horizon lie to the west. The village of Hockanum in Hadley township, at the base of Mt. Holyoke, was the scene of some of the most interesting incidents of J. G. Holland's "Kathrina." Clifton Johnson, who has so successfully combined the writing of many books about New England scenes and people with artistic photogra- phy and editing school books, lives here. 20.5 HADLEY. Alt 189 ft. Pop 1999 (1910), 2666 (1915). Hamp- shire Co. Settled 1659. Indian name Norwottuck. Mfg. brooms; tobacco and onion growing. Hadley lies in a great bend of the Connecticut opposite Northampton. It is a fine old town, famous for its "Street," 300 feet wide, running north and south across the peninsula. On its deep alluvial soil the elms grow to their greatest mag- nificence. Today in this little agricultural town the old New 324 HADLEY England stock is rapidly dwindling and there has been a great influx of Poles. Formerly Hadley had a prosperous broom industry. Broom-corn cultivation and broom-making were begun here about 1790, and in the middle of the nineteenth century immense fields of broom-corn gave winter employ- ment to its whole male population in the making of brooms. Now but one small factory remains, which obtains its broom- corn from Oklahoma. Tobacco-raising is still important, and with the Polish immigration onion culture has developed. Hadley is a favorite place of dissipation for the Smith College girls. Here they come on 'Bacon Bats' and the Had- ley cider mill in season is a favorite place of pilgrimage, so that the natives refer to them as "The tin pail brig- ade." West Street, a mile long and a hundred yards wide, with a Green down the cen- ter and double rows of fine old elms, has been called "the handsomest street by nature in New England." There are many Colonial houses on this street, and several of the doorways are decorated with ' the high-boy scroll.' On the corner of Russell St. close to the pres- ent village inn is the site of Parson John Russell's house, where the Regicides were hid- den, and nearby there still stands a portion of Colonel Elisha Porter's house, where Burgoyne spent the night while on the way to Boston after his surrender. Burgoyne was in such good spirits at the hospitality he received that he gave his handsome sword, surrendered and then restored to him at Saratoga, to his host, by whose descendants it is still preserved. Between the R.R. and the river on the east side of the 'Street' is the Eleazer Porter house (1713), the oldest in the town, with an interesting high-boy scroll over the door. A few paces further north is another Porter house, where in 1866 Miss Charlotte Porter established her boarding school for girls, but which for the last thirty-four years has been HIGH-BOY SCROLL DOORWAY OF THE ELEAZER PORTER HOUSE R. 10 3. E. BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO MILLERS FALLS 325 continued at Springfield. Nearly opposite, and shaded by a magnificent elm, is the site, marked by a tablet, of the house in which 'Fighting Joe' Hooker, the famous general in the Mexican and Civil Wars, was born in 1814. On Middle St. next the town hall, is the Old Meeting House, dating from 1808, a simple masterpiece of Colonial architec- ture. The weathercock, imported from London for an earlier church, has looked down from its lofty perch upon Hadley since 1753. Julia Taft Bayne, cousin of Ex-president Taft, and wife of a former pastor of the church, has thus voiced the feeling of this old weathercock: "On Hadley steeple proud I sit, Steadfast and true, I never flit. Summer and winter, night and day, The merry winds around me play, And far below my gilded feet The generations come and go, In one unceasing ebb and flow, Year after year in Hadley street. I nothing care, I only know, God sits above, He wills it so; While roundabout and roundabout and roundabout I go, The way o' the wind, the changing wind, the way o' the wind to show." The old Ben Smith Tavern stands at the corner of Middle St. and Bay Road, the "Olde Bay Path" of Colonial days. This tavern on the post road between Boston and Albany was a very popular hostelry in the eighteenth century. Major John Pynchon purchased this territory from three Indian sachems, whose names are worthy of preservation, Chickwallop, Umpanchala, and Quonquont. The price paid, 700 feet of wampum, was the highest rate that had been paid the Indians for their real estate up to that time. The first settlers were "Strict Congregation- alists" from Hartford and Wethersfield who migrated because of church difficulties. Some of these recalling their English home of Hadleigh so named the town. Hopkins Academy, established here in 1664, was perhaps the earliest school founded by private benefaction in New England. Edward Hopkins, a London merchant converted to Puritanism, came to America in 1638 and long resided at Hartford, where he amassed wealth in the West India trade. Dying in London in 1657 he left his fortune "to give some encouragement in their foreign plantations for the breeding up of hopeful youths in a way of learning, both at the grammar school and college, for the public service of the country in future times." One of the trustees of the fund became a resident of Hadley, which resulted in the academy being established here. The school founded at New Haven on the same bequest still continues its moribund existence, and a portion of the funds given to Harvard College still provide the "Deturs." When in 1664 New Haven became too hot for the Regicides (p 03), a refuge was prepared for them in this remote frontier town. Goffe and Whalley arrived by night and were secreted in the house of Mr. Russell. Except for one appearance and the visits of a few confidential 326 HADLEY AMHERST friends, Whalley so lived here for ten years till his death, and Goffe for at least five years longer. The only appearance of the latter as the 'Angel of Hadley ' was most dramatic. The frontier settlement was protected by a palisade, though subject to frequent Indian attacks. In September, 1675, the inhabitants were keeping a fast, when the Indians, taking advantage of their devotion, fell upon them. In the suddenness of the assault all was confusion. All seemed lost when an unknown man of advanced years, in ancient garb, with flowing white hair, suddenly appeared, and in commanding tones directed the defence. His authoritative words of command instantly restored con- fidence. With pike and musket the invaders were driven in headlong flight. When order was restored, the 'Angel of Hadley' had disap- peared. Nor did scarce any man know that it was General Goffe, who from his hiding had seen the Indians approach, that gracious Provi- dence had interposed for their rescue. Note. Two miles north is North Hadley, near the river, on the road to which one passes the birthplace and cherished home of Bishop F. D. Huntington (1819-1904), now the property of a grandson. The State Highway runs from Northampton eastward through Hadley, direct to 24.5 AMHERST. Alt 241 ft, R.R. Sta. Pop 5112 (1910), 5558 (1915). Hampshire Co. Settled 1727. Mfg. boxes, brick, straw hats, mercerized silk; dyeing and finishing textiles. Amherst is a quiet academic town in the midst of some of the most pleasing scenery of the whole valley. It is beauti- fully situated on a plateau about 200 feet above the Connecti- cut, in a setting of wooded mountains. To the north are Mt. Toby and Sugarloaf, to the east the Pelham Hills, to the south the Holyoke range, and to the west the river and the distant Berkshire and Hampshire hills. The name of the town is synonymous with the college to the outer world, but in ad- dition to being an educational center there is some manufac- turing. There are two concerns, employing about 500 hands, engaged in the manufacture of the type of straw hat worn extensively in the South and West. The material used is im- ported, chiefly from China and South America. The region abc ut is one of the finest fruit-growing portions of New Eng- land, and there are great orchards, such as those of the Bay Road Fruit Company. Shade-grown tobacco is another im- portant product, and onions, grown by the Polanders on the share system, yield large profits. The grounds of Amherst College lie on the hill at the south- ern end of the village Common. Walker Hall is the adminis- trative building, north of which are the Fayerweather Labora- tory and the Morris Pratt Memorial Dormitory. Barrett Hall, to the east, formerly Barrett Gymnasium (1860), was the first college gymnasium in the country. Johnson Chapel (1827) and the College Church stand on opposite sides of the campus, the Pratt Gymnasium and Natatorium and the Biological and Geological Laboratories on the south border. R. 10 3. E. BANK: SPRINGFIELD TO MILLERS FALLS 327 The biology museum contains a part of Audubon's celebrated collection of birds. In the geology museum is the Hitchcock Ichnological Collection of some twenty thousand reptilian tracks in stone, and casts of living and extinct sp.cies. In Appleton Cabinet is the anthropological collection, rich in Indian relics. The Mather Art Museum occupies the third floor of Williston Hall, directly north of North College. At the south end of Pleasant St., the main thoroughfare of the town, are the President's house, the Library and College Hall; the latter, once the village church, is now the main assembly hall of the college. North and South College, built in 1828 and 1820, are the oldest buildings. About five min- utes' walk from the campus are the Observatory, Pratt Field, and Pratt Skating Rink. The Fraternity Houses, most of which are on or near the campus, are an important part of the college dormitory system, and some of the new ones are fine examples of modern New England Colonial architecture. The Psi Upsilon House, facing the Common at the corner of Northampton Road, is one of the most attractive. The town centers about the Common, and there are a number of interesting old houses. The Strong house (1744), under its giant buttonwood, is now the headquarters of the Amherst Historical Society, and the interior preserves much of its oldtime appearance. On South Pleasant St. is the old How- land house, better known as the home of Edward Hitchcock, the famous geologist, at one time President of Amherst Col- lege. Nearby is the birthplace of Helen Hunt Jackson. On the Old Bay Road in the south part of the town is the Bridge- man Tavern, famous in the days of the stage coaches. Eugene Field and his brother Roswell made this their playground when attending Miss Howland s private school close by. North of the Agricultural College is the old Dickinson estate. The Massachusetts Agricultural College, incorporated 1863, is about a mile north of the Common. The buildings are on the edge of a sloping meadow with fine views of the moun- tains to the south and west. Among the buildings are Stone Chapel; Draper Hall, the college commons; the Flint Labora- tory, one of the best equipped dairy buildings in the United States; French Hall, devoted to floriculture and market- gardening; Stockbridge Hall, devoted to agriculture; and the modern concrete barns, cattle sheds, etc., of the experimental farm. Under the enterprising direction of President Kenyon L. Butterfield the college is attempting to serve the whole State in the promotion of improved methods of developing the soil and its productions. Frequent demonstrations are given which are attractive to farmers and stock growers. 328 AMHERST VERNON The town was named in honor of General Jeffrey Amherst (1717- 97), English commander of the expedition against Louisburg, and under whom many of the early settlers fought. In 1746 the town voted "to give John Nash forty shillings to sound ye kunk for this year." This was the substitute for a church bell until 1793, when a bell which weighed 932 pounds took its place. In Revolutionary days the town seems to have been evenly divided in sentime_nt, but on one occasion when Mr. Parsons, the minister, was obliged to read a proclamation, issued by the newly created State of Massachu- setts, ending with "God save the Commonwealth of Massachusetts," he added, "but I say, 'God save the King.'" Whereupon Nat Dick- inson sprang up in his pew and shouted, "And I say you are a damned rascal." Noah Webster lived here from 1812 to 1822, while working on his Dictionary, and Silas Wright, statesman, and Governor of New York, was born here. The route leads straight through Pleasant St., passing the Massachusetts Agricultural College, and follows the State Highway to North Amherst (27.0). Note. The left fork leads to the Connecticut and the West Bank Route through the township and village of Sun- derland (5.0). The neighborhood was called by the early settlers "Plumtrees" from the wild plums which then abounded. Here is the old Hubbard Tavern (1763), which still retains much of the quaint aspect of former times. To the north is Mt. Toby (1000 ft), a mass of conglomerate rock, on the slopes of which are several cascades and a remark- able cavern 150 feet long. The bridge leads over the river to Deerfield (p 317). The main route takes the right fork, following the course of the R.R. in the valley east of Mt. Toby to 35.5 MONTAGUE. Alt 228 ft. Pop 6866 (1910), 7925 (1915). Franklin Co. Inc. 1754. Mfg. brick and sporting goods. Montague was named for the commander of the "Mer- maid" at the taking of Cape Breton. It was called "Mon- tague City" after the construction of the canal of the Upper Locks Company in 1753, when it was hoped that a little city would quickly develop. At the crossroads turn sharp right over a little bridge and then sharp left beside R.R. 40.0 MILLERS FALLS (R. IS, p 414). R. 10 4. West Bank: Greenfield to Bellows Falls. 43.0m. This route follows State Highways, marked with blue as far as Bernardston, northward across country direct to Brattle- boro. The route leaves Greenfield by Federal St. and follows the blue markers, with Fall River on the right, to R. 10 4. W. BANK: GREENFIELD TO BELLOWS FALLS 329 6.5 BERNARDSTON. Alt 365 ft. Pop (twp) 741 (1910), 790 (1915). Franklin Co. Settled 1738. Mfg. taps and dies. This quiet little town, the most northerly in Franklin County, is situated between the Fall and Connecticut rivers. It is primarily an agricultural town, but there are also several good limestone quarries. The territory was first granted to the heirs of some of the men engaged in the Falls Fight which took place at Turners Falls in 1676, and for many years it was known as Fallstown. It was renamed in honor of Governor Bernard when incorporated in 1762. The first four houses were built of hewn logs, with portholes in the walls as a safeguard against Indian attack. The leading man among the settlers was Major John Burke, whose epitaph says: "Were I so tall to reach the pole Or grasp the ocean with my span I must be measured by my soul. The mind's the standard of the man." Note. A detour through Mt. Hermon and Vernon to Brat- tleboro, five miles longer, follows the blue markers to the right, passing the beautiful grounds of Mount Hermon School (3.0), founded in 1881. Its most striking feature is the industrial system by which nearly all of the work of the farm and houses is done by the boys. After leaving the school a large proportion of the students engage in mission work. The Memorial Chapel is a conspicuous object for miles up and down the valley; the funds for its erection were raised by the friends of Dwight L. Moody, the famous evangelist of Northfield and founder of the school, on his sixtieth birthday (1897). At this point the blue-marked road forks to the right, across the Connecticut, to the East Bank Route at Northfield (p 335). We follow the left fork, passing Sawyer and Lily Ponds on the left, and continue through West Northfield. The State line is marked by a granite shaft. The valley of the Connecticut in Vermont was settled 125 years later than the Massachusetts portion of the river. This was largely because it was nearer to Canada and consequently more exposed to danger from the French and Indians as the main route which the French would take in attempting to reach the lower settlements. Fort Dummer at Brattleboro, the first white outpost in Vermont, was built in 1724. At South Vernon (7.0), just beyond the State line and opposite Hinsdale, the Connecticut Power Company has built a concrete dam 30 feet high and 650 feet long across the river at an expense of $3,500,000. This is one of the group of power plants in the region, supplying electricity to manufacturing centers. It generates 27,000 h.p. 10.5 VERNON. Alt 310 ft. Pop 606. Windham Co. Settled 1690. Vernon is a quiet village on the level terraces of the river, with the Green Mountains for a background. The township was a part of the Northfield grant of 1672. Here was the first settlement within the limits of the present State of Ver- 33 VERNON BRATTLEBORO mont. People from Northfield are said to have been here not later than 1600. When Governor Wentworth granted a charter to Hins- dale, N.H., a part of this town was included, and what is now known as Vernon was called Hinsdale till 1802. Sortwell's Fort, built in 1737. stood here for nearly a century. Fort Bridgman, a little further south, was attacked and destroyed by the Indians in 1746 and again in 1755. Among the captives were Mrs. Jemima Howe and her seven children, her husband having been killed, and her youngest, a baby, perishing on the trip to Canada. Mrs. Howe, however, survived captivity and three husbands. A son of her third husband died from the effects of inoculation. His tomb- stone in the Vernon Cemetery has an interesting epitaph written by the Rev. Bunker Gay: "Here lies cut down, like unripe fruit, A son of Mr. Amos Tute. "To death he fell a helpless prey, On April V and Twentieth Day, In Seventeen Hundred Seventy-Seven, Quitting this world, we hope, for Heaven. "Behold the amazing alteration. Effected by inoculation; The means empowered his life to save, Hurried him headlong to the grave." A century or more ago Vernon was notable as a sort of Gretna Green. Here runaway couples were married by Dr. Cyrus Washburn, a Justice of the Peace in Vernon for fifty-six years. During this time he is said to have united 853 couples by many forms of ceremony of his own invention, which included such original verse as: "Parties and relatives being agreed, To solemn joyous rites we will proceed." From Vernon the road continues along the bank of the river at the foot of several hills into Brattleboro (18.0). From Bernardston the main route passes straight through the village. Just beyond is a bad left curve. Crossing the Vermont line, the road follows the base of East Mountain into 17.5 GUILFORD. Alt 410 ft. Pop 679. Windham Co. Settled 1761. Mfg. slate, flagging, sleds. General John W. Phelps, who, like Robert Gould Shaw of Boston, organized several colored regiments during the Civil War, was a native and spent most of his life here. The town was settled in 1761. By the terms of a grant, in 1764 the grantees were accountable only to the British Parliament, so for several years it was virtually a little republic, and it was not until 1776, when the authority of the Continental Congress was recognized, that Guil- ford became a political part of the colonies. In its early days it was one of the most populous Vermont towns and for several years a bone of contention between New York and Vermont. Two sets of town officers were elected, one under the authority of each government. In 1773 Vermont ordered General Ethan Allen to call out the militia to suppress an insurrection. Coming from Bennington with a force of one hundred of his Green Mountain Boys he issued the follow- ing proclamation: "I, Ethan Allen, declare that unless the people of Guilford peaceably submit to the authority of Vermont the town shall be made as desolate as were the cities of Sodom and Gomorrah." The New York people were driven out and martial law established. R. 10 4. W. BANK: GREENFIELD TO BELLOWS FALLS 331 Some of the inhabitants thought that Ethan Allen was "more to be feared than death with all its terrors." The township of Bainbridge in New York was almost wholly settled by those who fled from here. 20.0 BRATTLEBORO. Alt 226 ft. Pop 7541. Windham Co. Settled 1762. Mfg. canned corn, cotton goods, extracts, machinery, chemicals, furniture, and marble and granite. This is a thriving little manufacturing city and one of the first English settlements in Vermont. It is a well built town, picturesquely situated on an undulating plateau above the river, surrounded by an amphitheater of heavily wooded hills. Main Street, the principal thoroughfare, runs parallel with the river and one hundred feet above it. At the north end of the town is a park on the edge of a plateau which commands a beautiful view of the mountains and the valley below. Be- low the park, in the valley, is the Vermont Asylum for the Insane. In the southern part of the town is Whetstone Brook with its numerous factories, and further south Cemetery Hill from which there is a view of the town. The Vernon dam has backed up the waters of the Connecticut into a twenty-mile lake, on which there is good boating. Island Park, on the river, is an amusement resort. The Country Club borders the river opposite Mt. Wantastiquet. William Morris Hunt, the artist (see Magnolia, R. 36), an inti- mate friend of Millet, the great French painter, and Richard M. Hunt, the prominent New York architect, were born here. Larkin G. Mead, the sculptor, began his career in this place: on New Year's Eve in 1856 he made from the snow a statue of the Recording Angel, that attracted widespread attention from the entire country. His sister is the wife of William Dean Howells. His brother, who was born here, was a mem- ber of the noted architectural firm of McKim, Mead & White. Here too lived Royal Tyler, a wit and poet, who later became Chief Justice of Vermont, but is more notable as the author of "The Contrast," the first American play to be acted upon a regular stage by an established company of players, per- formed at the Old John Street Theater in New York, 1786. On a hillside three miles north of the town is Naulahka, the Indian bungalow built by Rudyard Kipling about a splendid Indian carving. It is "a long low two-storied frame bungalow of but a single room in depth, whose dun hues blend and har- monize with those of the hillside." In the smoking room are clever caricatures by 'Spy,' where the subject of the artist's humor left them a score of years ago. Kipling has forsaken America for his old home, but the cottage and its splendid site with far-sweeping views of the Connecticut valley and its hill walls testify to Kipling's eye for scenic beauty. 332 BRATTLEBORO BELLOWS FALLS In 1891 Kipling met in London Wolcott Balestier, with whom he afterward collaborated in his story "The Naulahka." The acquaint- ance resulted in his marrying Balestier's sister, Caroline, Jan. 18, 1892. The Balestiers' old family estate, Beechwood, was at Brattle- boro, Vt., where much of Mrs. Kipling's girlhood was passed. A visit with her husband to these scenes of her childhood resulted in the selection of the site for their home among the broad Balestier acres. From August, 1892, to September, 1896, this was Kipling's home. It was in this hillside cottage that two of his children were born, and some of the poems of "The Seven Seas" written, the "Jungle Books" begun, and "Many Inventions" completed. One of the stories in the latter volume is packed with local allusion and observa- tion. The horses in a Vermont pasture brag in the manner of their masters of their ability to go from Brattleboro to Keene, forty-two miles, in an afternoon. One asserts how "the Deacon, the absolutely steady lady's horse," can keep his feet "through the West River bridge, with the narrer-gauge comin' in on one side an' the Montreal flyer the other, an' the old bridge teeterin' between." The three bridges are there today. Originally called Fort Dummer, the first outpost in the Vermont part of the Connecticut valley was erected here in 1724 and a trading post established. The site of the fort is marked by a granite monu- ment one mile to the south of the railway station. Brattleboro was perhaps the first organized English settlement in Vermont, as very few pioneers came to this part of New England until the capture of Quebec in 1760 took away the fear of the French and Indians. The town was named for William Brattle, a Massachusetts Loyalist, of the wellknown Brattle family. Here in 1845 was established by Dr. Robert Wesselhoeft, a distinguished German, one of the earliest water cures so popular during the middle of the nineteenth century. The town is widely known as the home, ever since 1846, of the Estey Organ works, which manufactures reed and pipe organs and pianos; its founder, Jacob Estey, was one of Vermont's first self-made men. Brattleboro is a distributing center for maple sugar, and the home of one of the country's largest chair factories. 30.0 PUTNEY. Alt 320 ft. Pop (twp) 788. Windham Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. paper, lumber, and brick. This village, high above the river, affords an excellent view of the lake-like defiles and the further side of the valley. The broad meadows are extremely fertile and produce large crops. In 1744 a fort was built here, but the French-English hostilities forced its abandonment until twenty years later, when the first per- manent settlement was made, although in 1755 settlers built several houses in a square and attempted vainly to hold them for England. The route leaves the river and crosses the hills, bearing right past left fork and then forking left at the top of the grade (32.3). From the hamlet of Putney Falls (33.0) the road crosses the town line and draws nearer the river. 38.0 WESTMINSTER. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 1327. Windham Co. Settled 1751. Mfg. baskets, canned corn, paper, and gasoline engines. Westminster, a fine old farming town, lies on a tableland considerably elevated above the Connecticut, enclosed by a semicircle of hills. The village consists almost entirely of R. 10 4. W. BANK: GREENFIELD TO BELLOWS FALLS 333 one broad street laid out during the reign of George II and called the King's Highway. It is the birthplace of Henry A. Willard, the wellknown Washington hotel man. Westminster is one of the oldest Vermont towns; first settled in 1734 and later abandoned, it was finally established in 1751. It has played a prominent part in history: in 1774 a convention held here resolved that "they would defend their just rights while breath was in their nostrils and blood in their veins." Representatives from the several counties and towns of the New Hampshire Grants, in con- vention at Westminster, Jan. 15, 1777, resolved, "That we will, at all times hereafter, consider ourselves as a free and independent State." County court was held here under New York authority and Tory influence. The patriots took possession of the court and en- deavored to prevent the sitting. They were attacked by the Loyalists; two men were killed and three injured. This precipitated an up- rising, and five hundred men flocked into the town fully armed. The judge and other court officials were taken to Northampton and thrown into jail. A gravestone erected to one of the men killed says: "Here William French his body lies, For murder his Blood for Vengeance cries. King George the third his Tory crew Tha with a bawl his head Shot Threw. For Liberty and his Country's Good He Lost his Life his Dearest Blood." Here the first printing office was established in Vermont, and the first newspaper. "The Vermont Gazette, or Green Mountain Postboy," was printed, on the old Daye press, the first used in North America north of Mexico, and now the choicest possession of the Vermont Historical Society. The road runs down to the fork just before reaching R.R. station, and there bears left (39.5), paralleling the river and R.R. After crossing Cold River Ravine and the Rockingham town line the road enters 43.0 BELLOWS FALLS. Alt 300 ft. Pop 4883. Windham Co. Settled 1753. Mfg. paper, carriages, dairy machinery and supplies, and baskets. Bellows Falls is an important manufacturing town, the business center of Rockingham township, and the second town in population on the Vermont side of the valley. It is located on a bluff above the falls of the Connecticut and opposite the abrupt heights of Kilburn's Peak (828 ft). The streets are wide and tree-shaded, with a number of handsome residences. The famous and fabulously wealthy Hetty Green of New York has a summer residence here. It has recently attained news- paper celebrity as the Gretna Green of New England. The river here plunges over the rocks and through a gorge with a fall of 52 feet. The great waterpower has been fully utilized in the development of industries; it is conducted by canals to most of the mills, situated near the foot of the falls. The International Paper Company and some other concerns turn out 1500 tons of finished paper and ship 100 tons of 334 BELLOWS FALLS NORTHFIELD wood pulp each week: fifteen million feet of logs are an- nually reduced to pulp here; they are floated down the upper Connecticut, and during the months of June and July the drives are a conspicuous feature of river life. The Vermont Farm Machine Co., organized in 1868, has grown from a single room over a livery stable to occupy several factories. Its great success in the past twenty years has been due to the development of cream separators, one of its chief products. The Derby & Ball Company is one of the largest concerns in the country manufacturing scythe snaths. At Saxtons River, a village five miles west of the town, is Vermont Academy, one of the older educational institutions of the State. The Green Mountain Club, an organization devoted to the enthusiastic enjoyment of the Vermont moun- tains, was founded here by James P. Taylor, who gave himself to the school for several years and fostered outdoor life and winter sports by this means. Out of the club has grown the Greater Vermont Association, to which Mr. Taylor now wholly devotes himself. This latter organization, with headquarters in Burlington, is one of the foremost of sincere community publicity enterprises in the nation. The early center of population here was at Rockingham Center (R- 33), where there is an old meeting house dating from 1773, now preserved as a historical monument. It was settled in 1753 by men from Massachusetts, and named in honor of the Marquis of Rocking- ham, a member of the British Ministry. The Falls were so named in honor of Colonel Benjamin Bellows, one of the foremost settlers of this region. The first settlement at the Falls was in 1761. The first bridge to span the Connecticut was built here on the site of the present bridge in 1785. Paper was first manufactured here in 1802. Early in the nineteenth century a canal was constructed around the Falls by an English corporation to facilitate river navigation, but with the development of railroads this proved a losing enterprise, and in 1857 was sold. In 1871 a majority of the stock was purchased by Will- iam A. Russell, who developed waterpower here of nearly 14,000 h.p. by widening the canal to 75 feet and increasing the depth to 17 feet. This power is leased in shares of 85 h.p. each, and at the present time the International Paper Company holds 135 of the 163 shares. The power from the Vernon dam (p 329) has stimulated further industrial enterprise here. Four miles above Bellows Falls to the left of the river, near the cut known as Williams Rock, is a stone marker erected by the G.A.R. in 1912 on the spot where the first Protestant sermon in Vermont was delivered by the Rev. John Williams to the Deerfield captives and their Indian captors when they rested here on that Sunday in 1784. R. 10 4. East Bank : Millers Falls to Charlestown. 51.5m. This section of the Connecticut Valley Route follows closely the eastern bank of the river. The roads traversed are town and county roads, mostly in very fair condition. The New R. 10 4. E. BANK: MILLERS FALLS TO CHARLESTOWN 335 Hampshire West Side State Highway, to be marked by light blue bands on poles and fences, at Hinsdale (p 336) turns away from the Connecticut valley. The principal points of interest are the old villages of Charlestown and Walpole, the manufacturing town of Claremont, and the distinguished artist center of Cornish. Of the many fine views along the river, those of Mt. Ascutney from south and from north are especially imposing. From Millers River the route leads north near Mount Hermon School (p 329), to 9.0 NORTHFIELD. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 1642. Franklin Co. Settled 1673. This quiet, tree-shaded village is beautifully situated on the broad terraces rising from the meadows of the Connecticut, which here flows in long, graceful curves. Northfietd has become famous as the center of the schools and conferences established by the famous evangelist Dwight L. Moody. The annual summer conferences begun by him in 1880 attract hundreds of Christian workers during midsummer. The rustic homes of 'conference people' now dot the slopes of Strow- bridge Hill and Notch Mountain. Northfield Seminary was founded by Moody in 1879 to teach practical Christian work. Endowment and gifts and the household work done by the students make possible a low tuition. The Russell Sage Chapel, of Rockport granite, was erected in 1909 from Mrs. Sage's gift of $150,000. The old farmhouse where Moody was born in 1837 still stands adjoining the campus. It was while he was a successful shoe salesman in Chicago that he turned to evangelistic work. Clarkes Island in the river near Northfield has a tale of a buried treasure connected with the famous Captain Kidd. The red sandstone about here has yielded large numbers of fossil imprints of the so-called 'bird tracks' made by reptiles when the sandstone was a vast mud flat on the shore of an inland sea (p 413). The site of Northfield was known to the Indians as Squakheags, meaning "a spearing place for salmon." Settled in ^1673, just before the outbreak of King Philip's War, it was during its early years a frontier outpost which tempted Indian attacks, so that its third and permanent settlement was in 1714. On Sept. 2, 1676, the Indians attempted the capture of the town. Captain Beers with thirty-six troopers was sent to the rescue from Hadley. The troopers, fearing an ambush, were on the lookout for Indians, but not a trace of them could be found. At the peaceful spot since known as Beers Plain they lingered to eat the wild grapes which lined the way. All at once a band of concealed savages sprang out at the dismayed troopers, and in the slaughter which followed only sixteen escaped. Major Treat with a relief party arrived too late to be of any assistance, but he 336 NORTHFIELD WESTMORELAND succeeded in succoring Northfield. The town was abandoned by the settlers and then burned by the Indians. On Beers Plain there is a monument marking the spot where the gallant captain fell. The route runs straight on through East Northfield (10.0), following the dark blue markers to the New Hampshire line, where the pole marks are to be light blue with white border. 16.0 HINSDALE. Alt 340 ft. Pop 1673. Cheshire Co. Mfg. lawn- mowers, paper, lumber, and turbine water-wheels. Hinsdale is an old country village in the midst of a good farming region. The terraces of the Connecticut between Hinsdale and the Vermont town of Dummer are among the finest of the whole valley. The main-traveled road up the valley leads through North Hinsdale, crossing the river to Brattleboro and Bellows Falls (P333)- Note. The light blue-marked route, the New Hampshire 'West Side Road,' turns right at Hinsdale and leads northward through Keene to Newport and Lebanon (83.0); it is an ex- cellent gravel road through a rolling country without heavy grades, and is much used instead of the route nearer the east bank of the Connecticut. As the route follows a succession of river valleys the scenery is pastoral and quiet, bounded by the low hill ranges to east and west. Farming and lumbering are the principal occupa- tions, with the manufacture of lumber products. Keene and Newport, from which Lake Sunapee is quickly reached, are the main points of interest. Following the Ashuelot river through the villages of Ashuelot (2.5), Winchester (5.0), Westport (n.o), and West Swanzey (13.5), the route follows the light blue banded poles through the busy little city of KEENE (19.0), crossing Route 33. It then continues up the Ashuelot valley through Gilsum (28.0), Marlow (34.5), and East Lempster (43.8), climbing the slight divide into the valley of Goshen Brook, which it descends, past Mill Village (49.8) to NEWPORT (54.6), on Route 43. After leaving this little summer center the road leads on beside the Sugar river and then northward up Croydon Brook through the villages of Croydon Flat (58.3) and Croydon (61.6). The little hamlet of Croydon was the home of Ruel Durkee, long the political 'boss' of New Hampshire. He is said to have been the original of " Jethro Bass," the central figure of Winston Churchill's novel "Coniston." Austin Corbin, the railroad magnate of a previous generation, was also a native of this town. Immediately to the west rises the great ridge of Blue Mountain, now a great game preserve of 25,0x50 acres, known as Corbin Park (p 354). R. 10 4. E. BANK: MILLERS FALLS TO CHARLESTOWN 337 The route continues through Grantham (65.0), crossing a divide, and follows a pleasant brook down to Lebanon (79.2) and West Lebanon (83.0), where the road joins the main route again (p 360). Note. From Hinsdale the shortest route leads over a hilly dirt road in a wooded, sparsely inhabited region. The Pisgah primeval forest, a mile or two east of the road, has the largest growth of white pines in the East, some of them with a girth of twelve to fifteen feet. Passing through the village of Chesterfield (7.0), a mile and a half further on the road reaches LAKE SPOFFORD (724 ft), a beautiful little sheet of water with irregular wooded shores and sandy beaches, nine miles in circumference. Across the lake to the north is Pistareen Mountain (1060 ft); along the shore are a number of summer camps and residences. The chief resort is the Pine Grove Springs Hotel, very attractively situated near a good golf course. Nearby is the spring from which it takes its name. William Dean Howells was much impressed with the beauty of this little lake and compared it to the lakes of Italy. The road rises 700 feet and then descends rapidly into Westmoreland (16.0), joining the main route and Route 40. The road along the east bank of the Connecticut passes straight through Hinsdale and North Hinsdale (20.0). At North Hinsdale a stone monument near the junction of the roads is inscribed: "In memory of 14 men who were way- laid by Indians near this place June 16, 1748." The road skirts the base of Mt. Wantastiquet (1364 ft), which stands like a sentinel over the valley. A good carriage road has been constructed up the mountain, and at its foot is a bridge to Brattleboro (p 331). The road follows the bank past West Chesterfield (26.5), Ware's Ferry (31.0), and Parkhill (34.0), where it forks to the left. 34.5 WESTMORELAND. Alt 506 ft. Pop (twp) 758. Cheshire Co. Settled 1741. Mfg. lumber. The village lies in a beautiful region not unlike the landscape of its English namesake. One of the earliest New Hampshire settlements on the Connecticut river, it was originally called 'The Great Meadow,' from a considerable intervale on the opposite side of the Connecticut river. It was also often styled 'No. 2,' being the second in a range of townships granted on the Connecticut at the same time, of which Chesterfield was No. i; Walpole, No. 3; and Charlestown, No. 4. A small fort, or block- house, was erected here in 1741 by emigrants who came up the river in canoes. Like the other valley towns it suffered much from Indian raids. Continuing north from Parkhill, but at some distance from the river bank, the route reaches 338 WALPOLE CHARLESTOWN 42.0 WALPOLE. Alt 271 ft. Pop (twp) 2668. Cheshire Co. Inc. 1752. Mfg. cider. Walpole is a fine old country town on the fertile terraces of the Connecticut, with a background of glorious hills. The number of Colonial mansions attests its early prosperity. Main Street with its rows of fine elms and handsome old residences has an air of quiet dignity. Here is the house of Thomas Bellows Peck, built in 1792, and the old house of Colonel Josiah Bellows, now the residence of Mr. J. G. Bellows. One of the finest examples of Colonial architecture in the town is the house on Westminster St. now owned by Miss Fanny P. Mason of Boston. The estate of Colonel Benjamin Bellows is the property of Copley Amory of Boston. Some of the finest of the old homesteads stretch along the bank of the river. On the outskirts of the town is Glenside, the residence of Rear-admiral Henry B. Robeson. Rebecca Hooper East- man, the playwright, has a residence here. Walpole was incorporated in 1752 along with a number of the other valley towns. Colonel Benjamin Bellows seems to have been the leading spirit of the little community and is the hero of several Indian attacks. It is interesting to note that at that time salmon were so plentiful in the river that Colonel Bellows' hired men refused to have the fish served to them more than three days a week. In August, 1755, occurred the Indian attack and siege of John Kilburn's house. Surrounded by palisades, it stood a mile and a half from Colonel Bellows' fort under the shadow of Kilburn's Peak, named for its hero. Kilburn, with the assistance of his wife and young sons and daughters, defended his stout log house against 400 savages. The women moulded the bullets, loaded the guns, and when they became too hot from frequent firing cooled them in a water trough. When the stock of lead ran short, blankets were stretched in the upper part of the roof to catch the bullets which came through. These were quickly remolded and returned to their senders. The attack con- tinued all day, but ended with only one of the family wounded. The first bridge to span the Connecticut river was built between Walpole and Bellows Falls in 1785 on the site of the present bridge. A century ago Walpole had more than a local reputation for its 'Society of Wits,' chief of whom was 'Joe' Dennie, known as the 'American Addison,' "delicately made, needy of purse, but usually dressing in pumps and white stockings," who here edited the "Farmers' Weekly Museum." Cider was once a popular product with the townspeople, who have been known to consume 4800 barrels in a year, an average of three barrels for each man, woman, and child. The main-traveled road from here to Cold River is that via Bellows Falls and the West Bank (p 340). The New Hamp- shire road leads straight on through the riverside hamlet of Cold River (44.0) and past Kilburn Peak, joining the road which enters from the bridge on the left, and reaching South Charlestown (47.5). The route leads on to SI. 5 CHARLESTOWN. Alt 369 ft. Pop (twp) 1473. Sullivan Co. Settled 1740. Mfg. violin cases, boxes, and taps and dies. Charlestown is a dignified old village placidly set in the R. 10 4. E. BANK: MILLERS FALLS TO CHARLESTOWN 339 midst of rich meadows, and still gives evidence of its early nineteenth century prosperity. Its long street, parallel with the river, broad, and shaded by rows of magnificent elms, has upon it some fine substantial old residences. Route 43, from Lake Sunapee, crosses the river here. Massachusetts granted the township now Charlestown, which was long designated as Number Four. The first permanent settlement was in 1740 by people from Massachusetts. A fort was built enclosing about three quarters of an acre. Its walls were of massive square- hewn timbers laid horizontally, and within were the more important houses. A boulder now marks its site. In 1747 the fort, garrisoned by but thirty, withstood a siege by 400 French and Indians, and com- pelled them to retreat to Canada. Captain Phineas Stevens, the gallant defender, was highly honored by the people, and Commodore Sir Charles Knowles, whose ship then lay at Boston, sent him a sword. Therefore when the town was resettled it was called Charlestown in honor of Sir Charles. On an August evening in 1754 there had been a party at the Johnson house on the outskirts of the settlement. They had spent the evening "very cheerfully" with "watermelons and flip till midnight," and perhaps slept over-soundly. Surprised by a sudden Indian attack at dawn, seven of them, including Mrs. Johnson, were taken captives and hastily rushed northward through the wilderness to be held for ransom in Canada. Mrs. Johnson was mounted on a horse, 'Old Scoggin.' The first night they camped in Weathersfield. Mrs. Johnson's "Narrative" recounts with realistic gusto the privations and tortures of the journey. "The men were made secure in having their legs put in split sticks, somewhat like stocks, and tied to the limbs of trees too high to be reached. My sister . . . must lie between two Indians, with a cord thrown over her, and passing under each of them. ... I was taken with the pangs of child-birth. The Indians signified that we must go on to a brook. When we got there they showed some humanity by making a booth for me. . . . My children were crying at a distance, where they were held by their masters, and only my husband and sister to attend me, none but mothers can figure to themselves my unhappy posture. The Indians kept aloof the whole time. About ten o'clock a daughter was born. ... I was permitted to rest for the remainder of the day. The Indians were employed in making a bier for the prisoners to carry me on and another booth for my lodging during night." Forty years later Mrs. Johnson returned to this spot and commis- sioned a stone cutter to make two monuments, one to mark the place of the birth, the other of the encampment. His handiwork may still be seen beside the road a mile south of Felchville, but through some mistake the two monuments were set side by side. The larger one bears this inscription: "This is near the spot that the Indians / Encamped the Night after they took / Mr. and Mrs. Johnson and Family, Mr. Larabee / and Farnsworth August 3Oth, 1754, And / Mrs. Johnson was Delivered of her / Child Half a mile up this Brook. " When troubles near the Lord is Kind He hears the Captives cry He can subdue the Savage hand And Learn it Sympathy." For more than twenty years Charlestown remained a frontier post against which the French and Indian raids from the north were directed. 340 CHARLESTOWN WEATHERSFIELD BOW During the closing years of the last French War it was the military base from which was cut the Old Crown Point Road over which the Colonial troops advanced to assist Lord Amherst in the taking of Crown Point. This road, long since abandoned, is of great historic interest. Over it, in 1776, were dragged the heavy cannon from Crown Point which crowned the heights of Dorchester over Boston and compelled the evacuation of the town by General Gage. During the Revolution Charlestown was continuously garrisoned and was an im- portant depot of military stores. General Stark made it the rendez- vous of the New Hampshire troops before the Battle of Bennington. THE OLD CROWN POINT ROAD. In the summer of 1728 an exploring party of travelers traversed the "Indian Road" by way of the Connec- ticut, Black River, Otter Creek, and Lake Champlain. This was the road usually taken by the Indians coming from the north to trade at the Truck House at Fort Dummer. James Cross, a trader at Deerfield, kept a diary of the journey he made over this road in 1730. The project of building a road through from the Connecticut to Crown Point had long been mooted, and in the spring of 1756 the General Court at Boston passed an order for an examination of a route "by the directest course" from Number Four to Crown Point. Colonel Williams of Hatfield made a topographical sketch of the country, compiled from the reports of scouting parties. Because of the hostile Indians infesting the region the project was not renewed until 1759, when General Amherst had succeeded to the command. The first cutting was on the west side of the Green Mountains in the summer of 1759, under the direction of General Stark and Major Hawkes. The following summer Colonel Goffe with a regiment of 800 New Hampshire men, having opened up a path from the Merrimack to the Connecticut by way of Keene, began in June to complete the road from Wentworth's Ferry, two miles north of Charlestown, to Otter Creek. They first built a large blockhouse close to the ferry landing on the Vermont side. It took forty-five days to cut the road to the foot of the mountains. The road followed the devious course of the Old Indian Trail over the hills through the present towns of Spring- field and Weathersfield, Cavendish and Ludlow to the Green Moun- tains. At every mile a post was set up. Twenty-six had been placed when the mountains were reached. Thirty-three stone monuments now mark the Old Crown Point Road, and as many more will soon be placed by the Colonial Dames and other patriotic organizations. The town of Springfield has placed nine stone markers, the first of which is on the site of the Old Block House at the Ferry. Cavendish has placed a marker at the twenty- mile encampment. An interesting account of this road is given in the "Vermonter" of 1910. R. 10 5. West Bank: Bellows Falls to White River Junction. 43.0 m. The route continues along' the gravel-surfaced State High- way, except for the stretch of town road between Bellows Falls and Springfield Bridge. This is perhaps the most beautiful portion of the valley. The chief attractions are Mt. Ascutney, the fine old village of Windsor, and the gorge of Ottaquechee. The route leaves Bellows Falls by Rockingham St., follow- ing the river bank and avoiding all left forks, and crossing the Windsor county and Springfield town line. The road bears R. 10 5. W. BK. BELLOWS FALLS TO W. RIV. JUNG. 341 right and then left of the crossroads (10.0), which lead on the left to Springfield Village (R. 33), and on the right to Spring- field Station, across the river. Joining the State Road at this point, the route continues along the bank with Mt. Ascutney (3330 ft) rising grandly beyond. Crossing the Weathersfield town line (16.0) the road soon passes through 18.S WEATHERSFIELD BOW. Alt 350 ft. Pop (twp) 1092. Windsor Co. Settled 1761. Mfg. lime and soapstone. This pleasant old farming hamlet lies on the meadows of the Connecticut at a point where the river makes the bend called Weathersfield Bow. To the north stand up Mt. Ascutney and Little Ascutney. More than a century ago the Hon. William Jarvis, who had been Consul and Charge d'Affaires to Portugal under President Jefferson, bought 2000 acres near the Bow when he retired from office. He imported 3500 merino sheep at a time when the rapidly developing textile industries of America were demanding a higher grade of wool. Owing to the cost of her wars, Spain was obliged to sell many of her world-famous flocks of sheep which she had been breeding and im- proving for a thousand years. Jarvis also imported Holstein cattle and English-bred horses for his famous farm. This little district has ever since contained some of the best farms in Vermont. John P. Squire, the wellknown pork packer, was born at Weathersfield. Note. Weathersfield Center lies in a beautiful valley five miles back from the river. Perkinsville, nine miles west, named for a Boston capitalist who established a mill for the manufacture of broadcloth, cassimere, and satinet, is the livest village in the township, and manufactures soapstone wash tubs, stoves, sinks, and foot warmers. The quarries are located on Hawkes Mountain above the village. The village of Amsden, six miles away, named for Charles Amsden, has lime kilns. Weathersfield, though differing in orthography, was named for and settled by people from Wethersfield, Conn, (p 296). This township was one of scores granted by Governor Benning Wentworth in 1761 to proprietors, largely of New Haven. The first actual settlement was in 1769 in the southern and eastern portions of the town. Up to 1785 the people of Weathersfield were obliged to go across the river to Claremont to church. The first minister in Weathersfield was Rev. James Converse of a family which came to England with William the Conqueror from Navarre, when the name was spelt Coigniers. Its best-known descendant today is Frederick Shepherd Converse, one of our promising orchestral and operatic composers. In 1774 one William Dean carved out a farm at the foot of Ascutney. In ignorance or defiance of the law he cut down some of the great pines which had been reserved for masts of the Royal Navy and was arrested and taken a prisoner to Albany. Little wonder the colonists rebelled against such royal tyranny. The government they set up for themselves was evidently on quite different lines, for in the good old days in 1789 we read of a legislative enactment which authorized John Hubbard to organize a lottery that he might thereby raise the sum of 150 pounds with which to erect a brewery. 342 WEATHERSFIELD BOW WINDSOR Still following the river bank, with Barber Mountain on the opposite shore, the route enters Ascutneyville (23.0), a pretty little hamlet near the base of the mountain. Mt. Ascutney is the highest elevation in the Connecticut valley and dominates the landscape for twenty miles in every direction. Though but little over 3000 feet in height, it rises directly from the valley floor, here less than 300 feet above sea level, and its summit is only three miles from the river. An isolated peak, a compact, broadly conical out- line, it forms the principal feature of the views from the towns of Windsor, Cornish, Claremont, and Weathersfield, and for this reason enjoys a special reputation for its landscape beauty. The name is of Indian origin and signifies "the three brothers," perhaps on account of its triple summit. To the geologist, Ascutney is "a Monadnock overlooking a dis- sected rolling plateau." As Dr. R. C. Daly, who has published a monograph on the geology of Ascutney, expresses it: "Ascutney is a residual of erosion. It has been carved out of this part of the once lofty Appalachian Mountain System where the sedimentary rocks of the range have been intruded by several stocks and thick dikes of igneous rock. . . . Ascutney owes its existence primarily to a great stock of quartz and syenite." Two kinds of so-called granite have been quarried from the sides of the mountain. The huge columns of dark green in the library of Columbia University came from the quarries above Windsor. Its isolated position makes it a splendid observatory with a view including Greylock, Mansfield, the White Mountains, and Lake Sunapee and Monadnock. The Ascutney Mountain Association, a pioneer organization of its kind, established in 1904, maintains a stone cabin on the summit for the free use of climbers, and a log cabin is maintained on Weathersfield Peak, to the west. The road to the summit is in part that which the residents commenced for Lafayette to use on his grand tour, but the guest changed his plans and the road was finished a century later. Just before entering Windsor we pass the extensive estate of Mr. Kennedy, of cracker fame, on which there are thirty-eight buildings. To the right are the dairy barns. The residence is on the hill above the road. In the large riding hall a corn show is held every year. In the old Lamson stone mill on Mill River were made the first turret lathes. 28.S WINDSOR. Alt 324 ft. Pop (twp) 3407. Windsor Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. turret lathes, screw machines, tools, scales, and canned corn. The town is beautifully situated on the terraced meadows under the shadow of Ascutney. The history of eastern Ver- mont centers here, and the quiet shaded streets still present some architectural evidences of the time when Windsor was the first town in importance and wealth in the State. That was in the first period of its history up to the early nineteenth century, when, as since, it was distinguished as a town of learning and refinement. Square, commodious Colonial dwell- R. 10 5- W. BK. BELLOWS FALLS TO W. RIV. JUNC. 343 ings with fine porticoes and doorways face the quiet elm- shaded streets. The old Evarts homestead stands on the main street. William Maxwell Evarts, of the famous New York law firm of Evarts, Choate & Beaman, was Attorney- general under Johnson, and Secretary of State in the Cabinet of President Hayes. On the hill overlooking the town, among the pines, is the huge white house of the late Maxwell Evarts, who was much interested in the town's industries and owned hundreds of acres about Windsor. Another son, Sherman Evarts, resides here. Prescott Evarts, the rector of Christ Church in Cambridge, retains his interest in Windsor. Marie Dressier, the actress, has a summer home in this vicinity. The Government Building has recently been used for the summer executive offices of the President. On the outskirts of the town is the Vermont State Prison. The Windsor Machine Company is the principal industrial plant. It was resuscitated some years ago by Max Evarts, but since the war it has had a tremendous boom. It manufactures turret lathes and other machinery used in turning out rifles and shells. The plant has been enormously expanded, its shed-like build- ings extending over the once beautiful meadow. The river bank has been turned into a dump for refuse. But what matters it ! It has paid enormous dividends and has multiplied its capital stock many times. Its stock has recently been sold at more than $1100 a share to the National Acme Manu- facturing Company of Cleveland. The first white man to live on the site of Windsor was in all proba- bility one of those hardy Connecticut trappers, Emmons by name, who put up a primitive cabin here in 1764 and was soon joined by a family with the unusual name of Smith and a considerable number of military and ecclesiastical personages with such titles as Major, Cap- tain, Deacon, most of whom came from Connecticut. One of the early cases of 'thought it was a bear' occurred during these first years, when Joab Hoisington, out hunting with one Bartlett, shot him on hearing a rustle in the woods. In July, 1777, "amidst the tumults of war," Windsor was the scene of the convention which formulated the State constitution. The meetings were at first held in the old South Church, but soon adjourned to the great arched ball room of the village tavern, then a hospitable inn with pillared porch. This latter came to be called 'Constitution House,' and then for a time was reduced to ignoble uses as a store- house. It has recently been moved back to near its original site on Main St., and plans for restoration are being carried out. While the convention was sitting, news came of General Burgoyne's invasion, and the delegates wished to depart immediately to defend their homes, but a terrific thunder-storm broke, and while waiting for it to pass the constitution was hastily finished. It was modeled after that devised by Franklin for Pennsylvania, but has the distinction of being the first to make slavery unconstitutional. During the session of the first State convention, in 1778, twenty-six New Hampshire towns, acting under the leadership of the "Dartmouth College Party," seceded from New Hampshire and appealed for union 344 WINDSOR WHITE RIVER JUNCTION with Vermont. Vermont was then, and continued to be until its ad- mission to the Union in 1791, an independent republic. It is rather startling to find this early example of secession here in the heart of New England. The New Hampshire State Government very nat- urally strongly opposed it. In fact, the independent government of Vermont was bitterly opposed by the New York and the New Hamp- shire governments, both of which claimed jurisdiction. Ethan Allen was something of a politician, though better known in the conventional role of hero and patriot; he made a trip to the Continental Congress in session at Philadelphia, and there arranged that if Vermont would dissolve the union with the New Hampshire towns the New Hamp- shire State Government would support the new State against the op- position of New York. The first legislature which met at Windsor after Vermont's ad- mission to the Union, in 1791, initiated canal enterprise in New England by issuing a charter to "the company for rendering the Connecticut river navigable up to Bellows Falls." Again in 1830 a convention was held here to promote canal building and river navigation. Note. From Windsor northward the New Hampshire side of the Connecticut through Cornish and Hanover is much the more interesting, although the main-traveled road continues on the west bank. There is little of especial interest on the Vermont side of the river between Windsor and White River Junction, although the scenery is attractive. To reach Cor- nish, cross the long covered bridge over the river (toll 15 cts.)- The route leads along the hillsides above the river, overlook- ing the Cornish and Plainfield hills in New Hampshire. Avoiding the left forks half a mile beyond the Hartford town line (31.5) the route passes through the eastern end of 33.0 HARTLAND. Alt 500 ft. Pop (twp) 1316. Windsor Co. Settled 1763. Mfg. doors, sashes, and blinds. Hartland is a little agricultural village lying in the midst of the hills near the Connecticut. It boasts of saw mills and a blind factory, but the principal occupation is farming. The first settlement was made here in 1763 and the town was organ- ized in 1767. It was chartered as Hertford, but the name was changed to Hartland in 1782. The first settler was Timothy Lull, who brought his family up the Connecticut from Dummerston in a log canoe. Arriving at the mouth of a large brook he broke a bottle of liquor and christened the stream Lull's Brook, by which name it has since been known. Most of the early settlers were from Massachusetts and Connecticut. Daniel Willard, president of the Baltimore & Ohio R.R., was born here. Continuing up the Connecticut Turnpike, as the road is called hereabout, the route forks left across R.R. at North Hartland (37.5). Here it crosses the Ottaquechee river, which rushes down its deep gorge to the left from Woodstock. The only industry in this hamlet is satinet-weaving. The road now runs across country at the base of a terrace, the ancient shore of the Connecticut. At the crossroads (41.5) the route turns right on the King's Highway. R. to 5. E. BK. CHARLESTOWN TO WEST LEBANON 345 Note. Straight ahead is a short cut, across White River and through the village of Hartford, rejoining the main route from White River Junction on Christian St. (45.0). The main road follows the King's Highway past the State Fair Ground and down hill to 43.0 WHITE RIVER JUNCTION. Alt 367 ft. Pop (Hartford twp) 4179. Windsor Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. harnesses and satinet. White River Junction, an important railway junction and the principal center of the town of Hartford, is a prettily situated village at the confluence of the White river and the Connecticut. The White river, sixty-five miles in length, is the largest stream in Vermont east of the Green Mountains. This is a busy little place with an electric light plant, monu- ment works, printing offices, etc. Just above the village are the State Fair Grounds, where each September is held New England's greatest agricultural fair, notable for its display of live stock, especially Morgan horses, Jerseys, and Holsteins. The Boston and Maine Industrial Department has here planted, at the request of the Vermont State Fair Association, an acre of apples, which it maintains in the highest degree of cultivation as an object lesson to the farmers of the region in the proper care of an orchard and the most improved methods of harvesting and marketing. The White River R.R. Co. encourages potato cultivation along its route by offering prizes for the best results. Route 44 to Woodstock and Rutland, and Route 45 to Montpelier via the Williamstown Gulf, start from this point. The West Bank Route continues from here to Colebrook (p 347). R. 10 5. East Bank: Charlestown to West Lebanon. 34.0 tn. The route takes the right fork in the village and then bears left between Hubbard Hill and the Connecticut. About three miles north, near the village of North Charlestown, whose white church steeple peeps above the trees, the road forks at the stone watering trough. Note. The left road straight ahead, shorter, beautiful and practi- cable, but steep and narrow in places, leads to the Ascutneyville bridge across the Connecticut to the West Bank Route (p 342). It follows the valley, with charming views of Ascutney Mountain, and then as the river swings to the west around Barber Mountain, the road con- tinues to the east of Barber Mountain into the Sugar river valley, along the old King's Highway, where the first settlers of Claremont built their log huts on the south side of Sugar River. The righthand road is the main-traveled highway to Claremont. At the next fork, keep right and cross R.R. This broad valley was in former geologic times the valley of the Connecticut river. 346 CLAREMONT CORNISH 11.0 CLAREMONT. Alt 580 ft. Pop (twp) 7529. Sullivan Co. Settled 1762. Mfg. mining machinery, diamond drills, bedspreads, paper, and shoes. This is a manufacturing town in the midst of beautiful hills. Hemming in the town are Flat Rock, Twist Back, and Bible Hill, the latter with a small summer colony, while Green Mountain to the east is the dominating feature of the land- scape. The growth and prosperity of the town in the last half century have been intimately connected with the development of industries dependent upon the waterpower of the Sugar river, which falls some 200 feet within the town limits. This power is supplemented by the hydro-electric power of the Clare- mont Power Company, transmitted from its large plant near Cavendish, Vt. The Sullivan Machinery Company manufactures mining machinery, more particularly coal cutters, rock drills, air com- pressors, and diamond drills. It employs over 1000 hands and its products are sent all over the world. The Monadnock Mills specialize in cotton bedspreads. The central square is a vacant, unlovely area. Broad Street, quite correctly named, terminates in a small triangular com- mon, on which are the Town Hall and Library. The High School was endowed by Paran Stevens, who made a fortune in the hotel business two generations ago. Along about 1752 an adventurous trapper named Eastman from Killingworth, Conn., spent a winter along the Sugar river and its tributaries, where he found beaver and otter in great abundance. So rich was his harvest that he returned the following year and was never again seen, but years after his supposed skeleton was found near Mink Brook. He had probably been killed by Indians who were jealous of his success. The first settlement was made in 1762 along the south bank of Sugar River, near the Connecticut. The town was granted by Gover- nor Benning Wentworth in 1764 to seventy proprietors, only two of whom became resident. It was named for Lord dive's estate in England, owing to Wentworth's fondness for complimenting his noble friends. Up to 1769 the early settlers returned each winter to the southern towns. The first citizens of the town were about equally divided between the Episcopal and Orthodox faith. The Episcopal Church, organized here in 1771, was the earliest in this region. In the Revolutionary days the Churchmen were generally loyal to the King and paid a heavy penalty for their Toryism. A letter of Colonel John Peters, a brother of the first Episcopal rector at Claremont, gives a little idea of the unkindly way in which they were treated. "They seized me and all the Church people for 200 miles up the river, and confined us in close gaols, after beating and drawing us through water and mud. Here we lay sometime and were to continue in prison until we abjured the king. Many died. . . . We were removed from the gaol and confined in private houses at our own expense. . . . Rev. Mr. Cossitt and Mr. Cole had more insults than any of the loyalists, because they had been servants of the Society, which, under pretense (as the rebels say) of propagating religion had propagated loyalty." R. 10 5. E. BK. CHARLESTOWN TO WEST LEBANON 347 A band of stalwart young "Sons of Liberty" was formed with the avowed purpose of exterminating all Tories, to capture them if' possible, otherwise to shoot them. Between the Rich farm and Red Water Brook is the 'Tory Hole,' a secluded hollow surrounded by swamps and dense thickets in which in Revolutionary days the poor hunted Tories were wont to seek refuge. The Hole was not dis- covered by the patriots until 1780, when two Tories who had sought refuge there were chased across the river and to the summit of As- cutney Mountain, where they were captured and sent to Boston. From the northeast corner of the square the route follows the trolley, past mills and machine shops, down a badly kept street which the factories have narrowed by encroachments. Crossing the Sugar river, the route follows the valley, crossing Red Water Brook to (14.0) West Claremont, locally known as the 'west part.' Here the waterpower is utilized by mills which specialize in tissue papers, importing the wood pulp from Canada. The paper for Butterick's patterns is made here. The road passes under the R.R. bridge. This was built by the father of Whistler, the artist, his last job before going to Russia, and was considered a difficult engineering feat in those days. The span is no feet above the river. At Cupola Farm the road forks. The righthand road along the east bank of the river to Cornish is sandy in spots, but practicable. The best road and pleasanter route is on the Vermont side. As we cross the iron bridge of three spans there is an extensive view up and down the river. To the south the large white house in the meadow on the slope above is Upland Court, the summer residence of George B. Upham, a Boston attorney. It is on his ances- tral heath, as are two other Upham residences. The Uphams have been prominent hereabout for a century and a half. 19.0 CORNISH. Alt 380 ft. Pop (twp) 1005. Sullivan Co. The Cornish colony had made this one of America's famous summer localities long before it became the 'Summer Capital' during the administration of President Wilson. It is sometimes referred to as 'Little New York' because of its Metropolitan summer residents. On the hills of Cornish and Plainfield, the next town north, along the tortuous valley of Blow-me-down Brook, are the residences of those who make up the colony, thirty or so in number, among whom are names illustrious in art and literature. The great desideratum here is to have the beautiful cone of Ascutney in the view with a bit of the river in the foreground. There is nothing of splurge, not even so much of fashion, as goes to make up the Dublin colony, perhaps not so much of intellect as went to make up the Chocorua colony of former days; but taste and intelligence of the highest order have 34 CORNISH gone into the planning of the estates. They vary from the simplest old farmhouse, slightly made over, to establishments costing hundreds of thousands, in the style of Italian villas or stately English country seats. C. C. Beaman was first at- tracted hither by his father-in-law and partner, Wm. Maxwell Evarts, and bought up some 5000 acres. He in turn induced his friend Augustus Saint-Gaudens, the greatest sculptor of our time, to settle here. Charles A. Platt, the architect, was also an early comer, and his taste in architecture and landscape design is seen in many of the Cornish places. Here, during the last two decades, in winter or summer or both, have resorted the sculptors Augustus and Louis Saint-Gaudens, Herbert Adams, James Fraser, Henry Hering, Robert Paine, Frances Grimes, Daniel French; the painters Stephen and Maxfield Parrish, Kenyon Cox, Henry B. Fuller, Lucia Fairchild Fuller, Thomas Dew- ing, John W. Alexander, George de Forest Brush, H. O. Walker, Henry Prellwitz, John Eliot, William Hyde; the writers Winston Churchill, Percy MacKaye, Louis Evan Shipman, Witter Bynner, William Vaughn Moody, Robert Herrick, Norman Hapgood, Herbert Croly, Langdon Mitchell; the musicians Arthur Whiting, Otto Roth, Mme. Louise Homer; and many other artists. Cornish has played its part in history. During the period of ferment in 1778-79, when twenty-six New Hampshire towns in the Connecticut valley seceded from the New Hampshire government, Cornish was the place of meeting of the committees and conventions. Here in 1779 Colonel Chase assembled the militia to withstand the armed forces of New Hampshire. Salmon P. Chase, Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court, was born in a house still standing about one mile south of the old Cornish church, which in turn is about half a mile south of the Windsor Bridge. Close to the old covered bridge from Windsor (p 342) is the Hillside Creamery, a model cooperative farmers' enter- prise. From the bridge the road northward was reconstructed by special enactment of the New Hampshire legislature and re- named, in honor of the President, Wilson Road. On the right is the Tea Tray, a little white house with romantic green blinds and a swinging sign, obviously painted by Maxfield Parrish. The second house on the left is the Turnpike Inn, owned, like most property around here, by the B*eaman estate. Note. To the right a steep-incline road climbing the wooded bluff leads to the estate of Miss Augusta Slade. Perched hundreds of feet above and overlooking the valley, it is said to have involved an investment of $300,000. The house, designed by Platt, is filled with Italian furniture and antiqui- ties. The rose garden with old Italian marbles has inspired one of Mildred Howells' most beautiful short poems. Note. The next road climbing the hill to the eastward through the pines and birches leads to the homes of many of the colony. First on the left, behind a high pine hedge, is the place of Augustus Saint-Gaudens, known as Aspet, named R. 10 5. E. BK. CHARLESTOWN TO WEST LEBANON 349 from the little town in France where his forefathers lived. It was back in the early '8o's that Saint-Gaudens bought this place for a song from Mr. Beaman. The stately old brick tavern, dating from about 1800, which in early days had been known as 'Huggins' Folly,' was harmoniously remodeled by the gifted architect George Babb. Since the death of Saint- Gaudens in 1907, Mrs. Saint-Gaudens has transformed the two studios into a permanent museum of the great sculptor's works, which gives a broad and faithful suggestion of his accomplishment. Here in bronze and plaster she has had reproduced the greatest of his things, the originals of which are scattered throughout Europe and America. Visitors are welcome in the summer time. The Studio of the Pergola, originally the stable of the old hostelry, was the sculptor's own work room and remains much as he left it. On the outer wall facing the Pergola is a portion of the Panathenaic frieze, full size, on which Saint- Gaudens and his painter friends delighted to experimentally try out their theories as to its original coloring. The Studio of the Caryatids was for the use of his assistants, and now contains copies in bronze or plaster of his larger sculptures, some scale models, and others full size. Under great whispering pines on the brink of a deep glen, and looking out upon Ascutney which he loved so well, is 'The Temple,' a memorial enclosing the funeral urn erected by Mrs. Saint-Gaudens to her husband. It stands on the spot where was celebrated in 1905 the now famous Masque, imagined and executed by his Cornish neighbors, and offered to Augusta and Augustus Saint-Gaudens on the twentieth anniversary of their coming to Cornish. For this Masque, written by Louis Evan Shipman, a prologue, by Percy MacKaye, was recited by Miss Frances Grimes, the sculptress, who, clad in the rainbow tints of Iris, emerged from the pines and spoke these lines: "Fresh from the courts of dewy-colored eve Jove summons me before you. . . . Whether I pause Midway my quivering arc, that spans the roar And tumbling prisms of sheer Niagara, Or by the ferny banks of Blow-me-down Trellis my hair with braided fleur-de-lis, Still I am Iris But whence, emerging from the curtained wood Of Aspet, on this longest summer eve, While yet the veerie rings his vesper chimes, I have made journey thither, hearken!" Under a Renaissance canopy of warm-toned Vermont marble, designed by his old friend Mr. Kendall, of McKim, Mead & White, is a Roman sacrificial altar, a reproduction of the one 350 CORNISH modeled by his studio assistant, Henry Hering, for the cere- monial finale of the above-mentioned "Masque of Ours," the "Masque of the Golden Bowl." Just above, on the left is Barberry House, the home of Homer Saint-Gaudens, editor of his father's "Reminiscences," and stage director for Maude Adams. Here his friend Witter Bynner, the poet, wrote "The New World" and other poems. Continuing north, where the road turns to the right, a private way leads to the house of Herbert Croly, editor of "The New Republic," and author of "The Promise of American Life." Further on, to the east, is the house of Mrs. Louis Saint- Gaudens, no mean sculptor herself. The house, once an old Shaker meeting house, removed from Lebanon, N.H., looks straight down the road from an elevation. A quarter mile to the south is the house of Dr. Albert P. Fitch, President of the Andover Theological School, Cambridge, and author of "The Hungry Boy." A tortuous climb of some hundreds of feet brings one to the residence of Miss Elizabeth Slade. Continuing on the Wilson Road, just beyond the old stone bridge to the left is the modest home of Mrs. C. C. Beaman, who owns most of the land in this vicinity. Here on the right is Blow-me-down Mill, an old grist mill which still performs its useful functions, named from the brook which turns its wheel. The original name was Blomidon and Mr. Beaman gave this name to his estate, but later the native pronunciation of Blow-me-down was adopted and the Beaman place is now called Blow-me-down Farm. The road skirts the mill pond with sharp curves, and forks just beyond the old Pla infield burying ground. Note. The road to the right leads to Plainfield Plain past the estates and the homes of many of the Cornish-Plainfield colony. The first on the right is that of William Hyde, the painter, formerly the home of Thomas Dewing, also a painter. The next on the right leads to the home of George Rublee, instigator and member of the U.S. Trade Commission. The next on the left is the home of Charles A. Platt, with beautiful Italian gardens just glimpsed from the road. Beyond the Platt estate on the left are the places of Henry O. Walker, the painter, wellknown for his mural decorations in the Congressional Library; and the residence of Admiral Folger. On the right, just opposite Mr. Platt's gateway, a private entrance between stone pillars leads to High Court, commanding a most roman- tic view of Ascutney and the river gorge. Built twenty-five years ago and formerly known as the ' Lazarus place,' it was for some years occupied by Norman Hapgood, and is now owned by Conger A. Goodyear of Buffalo. R. 10 5. E. BK. CHARLESTOWN TO WEST LEBANON 351 On the left, just beyond Admiral Folger's, and part of his estate, is the little Snuff Box, for a while the leased home of Percy MacKaye, and later of Langdon Mitchell, dramatist. Just beyond, at what is known as the Four Corners, or Wil- der's Corner, the turn to the left leads to the homes of Kenyon Cox and Winston Churchill, and to the right, uphill, to the places of Stephen Parrish, Albion Lang, and Percy MacKaye. From the fork by the graveyard the Wilson Road, straight on, passes first on the right a house which bears on its portal the date 1794. This was originally the old Chase homestead, and now belongs to William A. Beaman, grandson of William M. Evarts, and said to be his living image. He raises pigs and names them after fellow members of the last two legisla- tures whom he didn't admire. The road from here on, which once ran sociably past the front steps of the old farmhouses, has been altered from its ancient course out of deference to the more retiring nature of the summer colonists. An avenue of pine trees planted about twenty years ago marks the innovation. To the left is the home of the Misses Arnold of New York, and next beyond, of Dr. Arthur H. Nichols of Boston, whose daughter, Rose Standish Nichols, has won reputation as a landscape gardener and as the author of a book on gardens. Half a mile beyond, two square stone gate pillars mark the entrance to the erstwhile 'Summer White House.' President Wilson during the first three years of his administration leased the residence of Winston Churchill, the novelist. No view of the house can be obtained from this road, but by turning left a mile south of this point and following the river road one may catch a glimpse of the house. It was in 1898 that Winston Churchill purchased a farm in Cornish and here built Harlakenden House, named for his wife, Mabel Har- lakenden Hall of St. Louis. It is a generous brick mansion designed by Platt in the southern Colonial style and built around three sides of a court. From the study windows through the pine branches is seen the Connecticut flowing placidly below. To the west rise the swelling green slopes of the Vermont hills, and southward, Ascutney looms up grandly. The changing moods and blue shadows of the mountain permeate Mr. Churchill's writings, and he has found literary values in its dominating tone, "Blue-purple, the color of the bloom on a Concord grape." In 1903 and 1905, in the unregenerate days of corporation control, Mr. Churchill represented Cornish in the State legislature, and the political insight he gained is reflected in "Conis- ton," published in 1906. It was "Coniston" that brought him the Progressive nomination for Governor as candidate of the Lincoln Club. The theme of "Coniston" is as broad as_ American life of the middle nineteenth century, but the scenes are laid in the region round about here. "Coniston" is said to be Croydon, and the whole locale still appears in the Green, the store with its horse block, and the tannery shed. "Tumble-down Brook" is probably Blow-me-down, which flows not into " Coniston Water," but into the Connecticut; and 352 CORNISH "Coniston Water" is perhaps the Sugar river, along which "Mr. Worthington" wandered looking for suitable waterpower. "Bramp- ton" represents Newport, and one of the mills there today, in honor of the book, is called "Brampton Mills." "Clovelly" is Cornish, and "Harwich" is Claremont. The characters, too, are supposed to be drawn from life. "Jethro Bass" is identified with the old State boss, Ruel Durkee. From his remote hamlet of Croydon, his sway extended over the whole State. "Bije Bixby," his chief lieutenant, is supposed to be 'Vene' Bryant (christened S. W. Bryant), who may still be seen contentedly shelling beans any sunny day on the porch of his little brick wool-house at Cornish Flat. A mile beyond, where the Plainfield road turns to the right, Winston Churchill has made himself a temporary habitation from an oldtime farmhouse formerly the roadside tavern. To gain a little dooryard he has diverted the old highway and erected a high wooden fence encroaching upon the new road, which he hopes may eventually be made beautiful by vines. Note. The Plainfield road turns off at right angles and runs directly east. To the left in a pasture upland, shaded by gigantic oaks, with stone terraces in front, is the home of Maxfield Parrish, the artist. To the right, a branching road crosses Blow-me-down Brook at the site of a sawmill, on the right of which are the house and studio of Kenyon Cox, the painter. The same road then continues east past Wilder's Corner, before mentioned, up the hill, passing on the right, high up on the hillside, the house and studio of Stephen Parrish, the etcher and landscape painter, father of Maxfield Parrish, and thus continues northeast past the entrance to the large and well equipped estate of Albion Lang, beyond which it runs north to the entrance to Hilltop, the home of Percy MacK; ye, poet and dramatist, the red roofs of which may be seen nestled below the top of the pasture hill. Here Mr. MacKaye wrote "Sanctuary" and planned his "Masque of Saint Louis," which, produced in May, 1914, with 7500 citizens of St. Louis as performers, was witnessed by half a million spectators in its four performances, initiating a permanent movement for civic progress through pageantry. Continuing on the Plainfield road, just before reaching the village, on the left, is the Italian villa of the painter Henry B. Fuller, with a swimming-pool in the courtyard. The little village of PLAINFIELD (4.0) is rather flat and unin- teresting, though the hills about it are beautiful. An old Colonial house with a charming garden on the east side of the main street is the residence of Mrs. Davidge, now Mrs. Taylor, a daughter of Bishop Potter. North of the village is Prospect Hill, on the eastern slope of which, approached by a quiet lane, is the residence of Herbert Adams, one of America's leading sculptors. The view from here is particularly lovely, framed R. 10 5- E- BK. CHARLESTOWN TO WEST LEBANON 353 by two huge maples. Behind the house there is a formal garden, and adjoining, another beautiful garden, owned by William Howard Hart, a landscape painter. A quarter of a mile beyond this point, at the very end of the lane, is the new home where in the future Ernest Harold Baynes will entertain his "Wild Bird Guests." In his recent fascinating book with that title Mr. Baynes tells intimately, with all the charm of his winning personality, the secrets of his success with the birds. Just beyond Herbert Adams' house, on the left, is Brook Place, the home of Louis Evan Shipman, the dramatist. Mrs. Shipman is a landscape architect of growing reputation. The road running directly east from Plainfield leads to Meriden. A mile from the village a steep grassy road climbs the hill to the north of the house, in a natural setting on the hilltop, of Everett Shinn, the illustrator. The road continues on along the valley of Blow-me-down Brook to MERIDEN (12.0), a secluded little town on a green hilltop almost under the shadow of Croydon Mountain. Here Kimball Union Academy has for a century been turning out worthy citizens from the grist the old New England stock brought to its mill. In the last five years, however, Meriden has become wellknown as the 'Bird Village.' It was Ernest Harold Baynes who put it on the map. Baynes was born in India and came very near being an Englishman. He is just one bundle of verve and enthusiasm, and when he goes out to protect the birds just ordinary humans have got to watch out. He settled down in Meriden to study the wild (fenced in) animals in Corbin Park, and it was not long before he was driving a team of buffalo in harness, had a timber wolf as a traveling companion, and kept a wild boar (a German one, too) in the parlor. Then he turned his hand to the citizens of the village who had lived on these hills for two centuries wholly unobservant of birds except when they went gunning. It took him less than a year to tame them so that he had them tramping out in hard winter weather to feed some tomtit in a remote corner of their pasture. In five years the birds of Meriden have become so pauperized that not one of them would now think of working for a living. They expect to be bathed and fed by the citizens. Free tenements, with all modern improvements have been provided for them. Flat houses of four and five stories seem to be popular. One sees them perched on top of poles in every front yard of the village. In Meriden the birds even have a thirty-acre park of their own, which has a name long enough to scare them away if they could read it. It is called 'The Helen Woodruff Smith Bird Sanctuary.' In the park are most luxurious bath tubs such as not even a sybaritic millionaire would venture to require. One of them, Baynes boasts, in his modest way, is a monolith weighing five tons, and another of bronze was especially sculptured by Mrs. Louis Saint-Gaudens in commemora- tion of the bird masque "Sanctuary," first performed here in 1913. It was written by Percy MacKaye, and the cast included Miss Eleanor Wilson and Miss Margaret Wilson, Juliet Barrett Rublee, Joseph Lindon Smith, Witter Bynner, and MacKaye and Baynes themselves. East of Meriden is Croydon Mountain. Austin Corbin, of 354 CORNISH THETFORD Long Island Railway fame, bought all the land round about, some 25,000 acres, and in 1899 put a meshed and barbed wire fence nine feet high around it, installed keepers' lodges con- nected by telephone, and stocked the park with American bison, moose, elk, Virginia deer, and German wild boar from the Black Forest. The herd of buffalo here was at one time the largest in the country and inspired Ernest Harold Baynes to found the American Bison Society, which during the past ten years has saved the American buffalo from extinction. The Corbin herd has of late been depleted by sale and gift, and the need of revenue has resulted in the cutting off of much of the timber. The park is at present leased to an association of wealthy men who have an ambition to be big game hunters, and membership entitles them to kill a specified number of animals each year. The road from Plainfield leads northward over the hills direct to the Lebanon boundary line, but the best road follows the course of the river, avoiding the hills. It crosses Mascoma River to West Lebanon (21.5). This village lies directly opposite White River, the longest affluent of the Connecticut, at the mouth of which is White River Junction (p 345). From Cornish bridge the direct route leads up the east bank beside the Connecticut through Plainfield township to WEST LEBANON (34.0; p 360). At White River Junction, across the river, connections can be made with the West Bank Route for St. Johnsbury and Colebrook, Route 44 for Wood- stock, Rutland, and Lake George, and Route 45 for Mont- pelier via the Williamstown Gulf. R. 10 6. West Bank: White River Junction to Colebrook. 130.0 m. This route follows the west bank of the Connecticut closely throughout. Except for fifteen miles between Waterford and Lunenburg it is State Highway, with the township lines marked by signs. The surface is mostly good dirt or gravel. The old town of Norwich, the long rapids of Fifteen Mile Falls, above Barnet, and the wilder country northward to the Dixville Notch are the principal points of interest. From White River Junction the road crosses the White river and passes through Wilder (2.0), a little village in the township of Hartford. Here the power of the Connecticut, Alcott's Falls, is utilized by the paper and pulp mills of the International Paper Company. Near the village are the old masonry locks of the canal built in 1810 round the White R. 10 6. W. BK. WHITE RIVER JUNG. TO COLEBROOK 355 River Falls. The road winds to the left, up and away from the Connecticut, and enters Christian St. (p 345), and then bears left into 5.0 NORWICH. Alt 398 ft. Pop (twp) 1252. Windsor Co. Settled 1763. Mfg. lumber products. Norwich is a fine old town on the Connecticut opposite Hanover, for which it is the railway center. There is a pleasant tree-shaded Green, with an old church and some century-old houses. Just north of the village the Ompompanoosuc joins the Connecticut. Bloody Brook, which rises in the north- western part of the town and flows into the Connecticut, de- rives its name from a battle fought on the stream during the French and Indian War. In 1830 Captain Partridge established Norwich University here, which later removed to Northfield. Philip Hale, the music critic of Boston, is a native of Norwich. Pompanoosuc (n.o) is a little village in Norwich township, stretching along the bank of the Connecticut just beyond the mouth of the Ompompanoosuc river. The chief interest of the community is in agriculture, but there is a furniture factory. Formerly copperas mined at Copperas Hill, ten miles to the northwest, was shipped from this point. Nearly 400 tons of it a year were converted into vitriol at works near Boston. Crossing the Orange County line the route enters 15.5 THETFORD. Alt 600ft. Pop (twp) 1182. Orange Co. Settled 1764. This old country village, surrounded by lofty wooded hills, is principally engaged in farming. There are some old houses here and a meeting house erected in 1785. Thetford Center lies a few miles back from the Connecticut, but the village of East Thetford is on the bank of the river. In 1911 the isoth anniversary of the chartering of the town was celebrated by a pageant which stimulated a new spirit of enthusiasm in this rural community. A soil and a farm man- agement expert were brought here to aid in agricultural develop- ment, and the women organized the Thetford Kitchen for the sale of certain choice food products. Since then an annual celebration, the "Intercamp Frolic," is held each summer on the pageant grounds by Camp Hanoum and other girls' summer camps in this vicinity. George Peabody, the famous philanthropist, spent part of his boyhood here at the home of his grandfather. During the later years of his life he gave a library to the village school at Thetford, now in the part of the village called Post Mills. Dean C. Worcester, a member of the Philippine commission, was born here. 356 FAIRLEE WELLS RIVER 23.5 FAIRLEE. Alt 436ft. Pop (twp) 438. Orange Co. Settled 1766. Fairlee is a pleasant country village a mile from the river in the midst of very attractive scenery. A part of the village is situated at the foot of a great ledge, sometimes called the Palisades, which backs its 'Street' at the upper end. Lake Morey, a lovely little sheet of water, rich in Indian lore, is in the hills a mile from the Connecticut. It is the chief scenic attraction of the region and the center of a summer colony and the site of Wynona, Hokomoko, Aloha, and other wellknown summer camps for girls. The lakelet is about three miles long. A drive of about seven miles encircles it, and a little steamboat plies up and down. Eagle Cliff rises steeply 700 feet above its waters. At Glen Falls the water comes tumbling down a gorge over a huge moss-covered boulder, and has worn a horseshoe-shaped depression in the rocks. A shady path from this waterfall leads to the summit of Echo Mountain, which commands a good view. Lake Morey bears the name of Captain Samuel Morey, who as early as 1790 began to consider navigation by steam. Captain Morey made his first experimental trip with his steamboat on the Connecticut river on Sunday, during the hours when the people were at church, so that no one should see him in case of failure. On that memorable Sabbath in 1790 or thereabout this rude craft steamed up the river between Fairlee and Orford, and on the following day the inventor announced his success. The news must have reached Fulton, for soon after he consulted with Morey and ere long a steam- boat was launched on the Hudson. About 1820 Morey launched an- other boat on Lake Fairlee. The "Aunt Sally," as this was known, had a short existence, as it was sunk in 1821, it is claimed, by enemies of Captain Morey in order that they might destroy evidence of a suc- cessful steamboat earlier than Fulton's. 30.0 BRADFORD. Alt 400 ft. Pop (twp) 1372. Settled 1765. Mfg. buckets. Bradford is a prosperous farming village at the confluence of the Wait and Connecticut rivers. In the village is the birthplace of Admiral Charles E. Clark, one of the eminent American officers in the Spanish-American War, whose exploit in bringing the battleship "Oregon" around Cape Horn is familiar to every schoolboy. The attractive hill country back from the rivers is a good district for excursions. In the northwest part of the town is Wright's Mountain (2000 ft), which takes its name from one Wright who claimed to be a prophet and had a hermitage in a dismal cavern on the southern slope, now called the Devil's Den. Wait River is a beautiful stream, and the shaded drives along its banks are exceedingly picturesque. Another attraction is Roaring Brook, which dashes down over rocky ledges. The numerous other brooks about this region afford good trout-fishing. R. 10 6. W. BK. WHITE RIVER JUNC. TO COLEBROOK 357 After leaving Bradford our route lies through one of the loveliest portions of the Upper Connecticut Valley. We con- tinue over the rich alluvial meadows, with the range of moun- tains rising in terrace-like formation parallel with the river. Some of the most fertile farms in New England are situated along this stretch of the valley. The little village of South Newbury (34.5), with its fine farming lands and background of mountains, is a part of the town of Newbury. 37.5 NEWBURY. Alt 450 ft. Pop (twp) 2035. Orange Co. Settled 1761. Mfg. cedar ware and dairy products. Newbury is a beautiful old village standing on the terraces above the rich intervale of Ox Bow, the great bend in the river that almost cuts off this fertile meadow-land. There are some spacious, century-old homesteads on its main street, and the present inn is a pre-Revolutionary tavern remodeled and en- larged. Mt. Pulaski and other peaks here form a wooded background. To the east, across the river, is the old New Hampshire town of Haverhill, and beyond are the Pemige- wasset and Franconia Mountains. The fertile meadows here were the home of a large tribe of Indians before the white settlers came, but the red men abandoned the place in terror after LovewelPs battle at Pequawket (see Fryeburg, R. 50). Newbury, one of the oldest of Vermont towns, was founded about 1761 by General Jacob Bayley of Newbury, Mass., who was later prominent in the Revolutionary War and a friend of Washington. A detachment of British soldiers came here during the war to take Bayley, it is said, but a friend went over to the field where he was plowing and dropped a note in the furrow, saying, "The Philistines be upon thee, Samson!" On returning down the long furrow Bayley saw the note and made good his escape. Newbury was garrisoned later in the Revolution, and during the early history of Vermont, when river transportation was in vogue, was one of the most im- portant towns in the State. 43.0 WELLS RIVER. Alt 500 ft. Pop 608. Orange Co. Mfg. paper, soaps, and lumber. The incorporated village of Wells River, the largest of those comprising the town of Newbury, lies at the confluence of the river of that name with the Connecticut. Hale's Tavern here is the headquarters of the Fat Men's Club and is a wellknown hostelry. In 1830 a small steamer ascended the stream as far as Wells River, but steam navigation on this part of the Connecticut has never been developed. The righthand road, crossing the Connecticut, joins the East Bank Route to the White Mountains at Woodsville and North Haverhill (p 362). Crossing Wells River and the Caledonia County and Barnet town line, the route continues on the State Road up the valley, 358 WELLS RIVER BRUNSWICK the scenery becoming ever more mountainous in character. At Dodge's Falls the river makes a considerable descent. Mclndoes Falls (51.7), the principal village of Barnet, a saw-mill center, lies at the pitch which finishes the long stretch of rapids known as Fifteen Mile Falls. These falls form one of the great waterpowers of the Connecticut soon to be the site of a million-dollar hydro-electric plant at Waterford. Here is sawed a considerable part of the great annual drive of logs from the headwaters of the river. Across the river in New Hamp- shire is Monroe, with Paddock Mountain a little to the south. 54.5 BARNET. Alt 452 ft. Pop (twp) 1707. Caledonia Co. Settled 1770. Barnet, near the foot of the Fifteen Mile Falls, lies at a bend where the river turns from northeast to south. Stevens River, the outlet of Harvey's Lake, empties into the Con- necticut at Barnet. About 150 rods from the mouth are some very picturesque falls. The town was granted to two sons of Phineas Stevens, who so gal- lantly defended the fort at Charlestown (p 338). Most of the early settlers were Scotch Presbyterians, and, true to their early training for many years they made large quantities of oatmeal. Soon after leaving Barnet the road crosses the Passumpsic river, one of the best waterpower streams in Vermont ; a few miles up its valley lies the town of St. Johnsbury, the home of the Fairbanks Scales. There are many islands in the river near the mouth of the Passump- sic, and it was here that Rogers' Rangers, returning from their raid on the St. Francis Indians, failed to find the expected supply of pro- visions. Many of the famishing men died here, while others made a cannibal feast on the flesh of a slain Indian. In his retreat from St. Francis to Charlestown Rogers lost nearly half of his men, and it is said that in eighteen hours thirty-six of his men died here. From Barnet to Waterford the road continues through the hamlet of East Barnet (57.0) along the Fifteen Mile Falls to Lower Waterford (64.0), where Route 46, from the White Mountains to St. Johnsbury and Burlington, forks to the left. 67.0 WATERFORD. Alt 800 ft. Pop (twp) 629. Caledonia Co. Settled 1783. Waterford is a little farming town surrounded by wooded hills. A charter has been secured for a great power develop- ment here on the Fifteen Mile Falls, and it is expected that the corporation which has developed the power at Vernon (p 329) will develop at least 60,000 h.p. here. The State Road ceases at this point. From here to Lunen- burg the river route is a town and county road, mostly in fair condition. Crossing the Essex County and Concord town line, it follows the river bank through a thinly populated country to South Lunenburg (79.0), a riverside hamlet, and R. 10 6. W. BK. WHITE RIVER JUNC. TO COLEBROOK 359 82.0 LUNENBURG. Alt 844 ft. . Pop (twp) 880. Essex Co. Mfg. lumber and caskets. Lunenburg is a fine old country town on the river meadows, backed by the Lunenburg Heights, which command a famous view of the White Mountains. The place is developing into a summer resort on account of the scenery and its proximity to White Mountain centers. Across the river is Lancaster. This was one of the early settlements in Vermont (1768). In 1764 settlers arrived, supposing that they were locating in this town, but they found afterward that they were in Guildhall. They came from Northfield, Mass., in canoes, a distance of 150 miles. The State Road commences again at Lunenburg and con- tinues beside the river all the way to Colebrook. 94.5 GUILDHALL. Alt 874 ft. Pop (twp) 445. County -seat of Essex Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. lumber. Guildhall is a farming town on the river meadows a little south of the New Hampshire town of Groveton. Back from the river the hills rise to a considerable elevation. Burnside and Cow Mountains are the highest in the town; the latter, situated in the western part, immortalizes a hermit negro who lived here in the early days and was punished for stealing a cow. The first settlement was in 1764 in a region which was then much frequented by the Indians. A blockhouse, burtt here during the Revolution, was afterward used as the first county jail. Among the natives are Henry W. Denison, who has been the legal adviser of the Japanese Department of Foreign Affairs since 1880, and Colonel Everett C. Benton of the John C. Paige Insurance Company, who has given the town a Library and a Masonic Hall. 103.0 MAIDSTONE. Alt 865 ft. Pop (twp) 175. Settled 1772. Maidstone is said to have more acres of intervale than any other Vermont town on the Connecticut. In the western part of the town is Maidstone Lake, a beautiful sheet of water three miles long and one and a half miles wide. From the summit of Byron Mountain the view of the winding Con- necticut seems to spell the word "Union." Nearly three miles beyond the town line the route enters 106.5 BRUNSWICK. Pop (twp) 82. Essex Co. Settled 1780. This township is almost an island because of the rivers which bound it, the Nulhegan river on the northwest, Paul Stream on the southeast, and the Connecticut on the east. At Brunswick Springs (113.0), by the river, is a semicircle of mineral springs only a few feet apart, each of which has a different taste. Not far from here is Silver Lake, which has about twenty-eight acres. On the old Daniel Smith farm is a balanced granite boulder of 500 tons' weight upon so small a base that it has been called "The rock that stands on nothing." Passing Coos (p 365), across the river, the road continues through Bloomfield (115.0) to 360 LEMINGTON HANOVER 125.0 LEMINGTON. Pop 138. Essex Co. Settled 1781. Monadnock Mountain (3025 ft), a mass of granite, is the most interesting feature of the town. A mineral spring issues from the eastern side of the mountain, and it is claimed that there are deposits of silver, lead, and copper. Four miles up the river from Lemington the route crosses the river into 130.0 COLEBROOK (J> 365). R. 10 6. East Bank: West Lebanon to Bretton Woods. 80.5 m. This route follows the West Side Road, a State Highway, marked by light blue bands. It runs up the east bank of the Connecticut through Hanover, the seat of Dartmouth College, to the Ammonoosuc river, up which it turns eastward through Lisbon and Littleton to Bethlehem and Bretton Woods, in the center of the White Mountains. From West Lebanon (p 354) the route follows northward the State Road with light blue markers, which here comes in from Lebanon, four miles east (p 337). Halfway to Hanover, opposite the Vermont town of Wilder, are Wilder's Falls, fur- nishing power for the manufacture of wood pulp. 4.0 HANOVER. Pop (twp) 2240. Graf ton Co. Settled 1765. The home of Dartmouth College is a pleasant old town beautifully situated and surrounded by rugged hills rising near the river and culminating in Moose Mountain (2326 ft). The town lies half a mile back from the river and a mile from the railroad station, which is on the Vermont side. Aside from its college colony Hanover is also a village, and yet it wears an air of dignity and almost cosmopolitan distinction. Un- affected by railroad, manufacturing, or foreign elements, it is pre-eminently an academic town. Dartmouth is one of the oldest and in its outward manifes- tations one of the most beautiful of American colleges. The buildings of varied dates and architecture around the elm- shaded Green present a spectacle at once pleasing and digni- fied. Dartmouth was founded, as the charter of 1769 states, "to encourage the laudable and charitable design of spreading Christian knowledge among the savages of our American wilderness." College Hall with semicircular porch and terrace overlook- ing the campus is the College Club, containing dining and recreation rooms. Opposite, the Hanover Inn is run by the college. Robinson Hall, a recent building, is the center of R. 10 6. E. BK. W. LEBANON TO BRETTON WOODS 361 non-athletic student activities, and contains offices of the student publications, "The Jack-O-Lantern," "The Bema," "The Dartmouth" (daily), rooms for student clubs, and a Little Theater. The college boasts the largest gymnasium in New England; in fact, on a plan of the town it bears the same relation to its surroundings as does a great cathedral in some English village. Opposite the southeast corner of the campus is Wilson Hall, in which hang portraits of Eleazar Wheelock and his successors to the presidency, also of Sampson Occum, the Mohegan Indian and Wheelock's first pupil in his Lebanon School. Occum, sent to England, aroused great enthusiasm by his preaching, and raised a fund of 12,000. The new Dartmouth Hall of 1906 is a reproduction of the old hall begun in 1784. Dartmouth grew out of a mission school for Indians which was established by the Rev. Eleazar Wheelock at Lebanon, Conn., in 1754. Governor John Wentworth induced him to move it to New Hampshire, and several towns strove for the honor of the location. Benning Wentworth granted the college its present site, a tract of 500 acres, and the province endowed it with a grant of 44,000 acres. The Earl of Dartmouth acted as the chairman of the trustees of the English fund and his name was adopted for the growing institution. The college started in its new location with twenty-four Indians in rude cabins as students. After several masters of arts had returned to their former savage life, doubts as to the efficacy of the education here meted out led to the admission of white students, as a result of which the Indians soon disappeared. The first Commencement was held August, 1771, in the open air. The four candidates received their degrees on a platform of rough-hewn hemlock plank. Governor John Wentworth was here with his retinue from Portsmouth, and at his expense an ox was roasted whole on the Green and served to the assembly with a barrel of rum. The portion of the town in which the college was located was during the eighteenth century known as Dresden, and the college faculty, interesting themselves in the political conflicts of the time, dominated the so-called "Dresden Party," which took so active a part in the secession of the Connecticut river towns from the New Hampshire government. The New Hampshire Legislature sought to transform the college into a State institution, but met with most strenuous opposition. The final contest with the Supreme Court of the United States came in 1815, when Daniel Webster, an alumnus, won the famous "Dart- mouth College Case," and has since been hailed as the "Re-founder." Other notable alumni are Rufus Choate, George Ticknor, and John Ledyard, the traveler. In College Park on the hill near the Tower, the seniors on Class Day gather to smoke the "pipe of peace" as did the earlier students here. On the river bank are boathouses for the numerous canoes. On the bank north of the bridge stood the giant pine from which, in i773 John Ledyard fashioned his dug-out canoe, 50 feet long and 3 feet wide, for his voyage alone down the river to Old Hartford. It is recorded that in college he was popular with his fellows, but impatient of discipline and not diligent in study. Of late the college has been the scene of a notable exhibition of the Cornish Art Colony's work, and also of a 'Winter Carnival,' or festival of snow and ice sports. 362 HANOVER BETHLEHEM From Hanover the road, marked in light blue, here some- times called the Westside Boulevard, runs northward, follow- ing the river valley, through the village of Lyme (14.5). 22.0 ORFORD. Pop (twp) 799. Grafton Co. Mfg. bobbins, har- nesses, and dairy products. The street of Orford overlooks broad expanses of green meadow; along its course are spacious homes of Colonial days. Six miles east is Upper Baker's Pond (1400 ft), a pretty lakelet, the site of Camp Moosilauke, for boys. Above it rises Mt. Cuba (3500 ft). Continuing up the river bank, the light blue markers lead through the village of Piermont (28.0), which spreads pic- turesquely over the terraces. Six miles east is Lake Tarleton and the Lake Tarleton Club, a semi-private summer resort. 33.0 HAVERHILL. Pop (twp) 3498. County -seat of Grafton Co. This is a pretty village on a hill, opposite the Vermont town of Newbury, overlooking the broad meadows and the famous Ox Bow, where the river makes a circuit of four miles, return- ing to within half a mile of its starting point. The incon- stant stream changes its course from year to year, adding or subtracting from the area of Vermont or New Hampshire. Haverhill, or Haverhill Corner, was an important place in coaching days when the stages stopped here overnight. On the square stands the remodeled oldtime inn, known as the Bliss Tavern, with two others nearby. The river meadows here were long known in the early history as the Coos Meadows, or the Coos Country. The towns in this region were settled through the initiative of four officers of Colonel Goffe's regiment who spied out the land on their expedition for the conquest of Canada of 1760. As they were Massachusetts men the settlements about here were named for their home towns. Three miles east of Haverhill is the village of Pike, at which there are important whetstone quarries, and waterpower from the Oliverian Brook. The Pike Manufacturing Company makes all kinds of sharpening stones and has quarries in Indiana and Arkansas. The new State Road from Plymouth to Haverhill now under construction, will pass through Pike. The State Road continues past North Haverhill (37.1), following the blue bands on the poles and turning up the valley of the Ammonoosuc river; this name signifies "fish story river," certifying to the antiquity of fisherman's yarns. On the opposite shore is the village of Woodsville, from which a bridge leads to Wells River (p 357), and the West Bank Route to Colebrook. Note. Town roads follow the river bank to Lancaster, there rejoining the State Highway. This detour follows the R. 10 6. E. BK. W. LEBANON TO BRETTON WOODS 363 river closely, passing through the town of Monroe (n.o) and continuing beside the Fifteen Mile Falls (p 358). To the right is the long wooded ridge of Dalton Mountain, between which and the river is Dalton Village (34.0), with Whitefield (p 364) seven miles to the southeast. Continuing past the slopes of Orne Mountain beside the river, the tour enters LANCASTER (41.5; p 364). Following the State Road and the light blue markers we ascend the Ammonoosuc valley through the villages of Bath (45.5) and Lisbon (51.0), where gold was once mined, as at Bridgewater, Vt. (R. 44). The roads to the right lead to Sugar Hill, Franconia, and the Franconia Notch (R. 34). 62.0 LITTLETON. Alt 700 ft. Pop 4069. Grafton Co. Settled 1774. Mfg. shoes, whetstones, bobbins, gloves; creamery. This is a prosperous village on the Ammonoosuc, with which the main street runs parallel. Two shoe factories of Sears- Roebuck Company are located here. The heights about the town command a fine panoramic view of Franconia and the White Mountains. 67.0 BETHLEHEM. Alt 1450 ft. Pop (twp) 1201. Grafton Co. Bethlehem is the highest village in New England. This great summer settlement has an open situation about 250 feet above the Ammonoosuc. It is probably the center of a larger number of hotels and boarding-places than any other place in the mountains. There are magnificent views in nearly every direction, including the Percy Peaks, the Franconia Moun- tains, and the Presidential Range. Crawford's, Bretton Woods, and Fabyans are under the very shadow of the great mountains, but here we have all-embracing panoramas of the high peaks across the intervening lowlands. To the southeast lies Mt. Agassiz (2394 ft), named for Professor Agassiz, who was much interested in the glacial remains about this region. A good carriage road leads to the summit, where there is an observatory with a rough mountain indicator and a fine lookout station. The view is very ex- tensive and includes many of the important peaks of the White Mountain region. Agassiz wrote: "The lane starting from Bethlehem Street, following the cemetery for a short distance, and hence trending North, cuts sixteen terminal moraines in a tract of about two miles. Some of these moraines are as distinct as any I know in Switzerland." Bethlehem is said to be immune from hay fever, and thou- sands of sufferers flock here each summer. The Hay-Fever Convention meets here annually. The lefthand road leads to Franconia (R. 34) and the righthand to Whitefield. 364 MAPLEWOOD COLEBROOK 68.0 MAPLEWOOD. Alt 1490 ft. Graf ton Co. The fashionable . summer colony of Maplewood, with its huge hotel and cottages, lies about a mile to the east of Bethle- hem Center. It is a favorite resort in a bracing situation with splendid views. The road leads on through Bethlehem Junc- tion (70.0) to TWIN MOUNTAIN (75.0), where it connects with Route 10 7, to Lancaster and Colebrook, and with Route 51 from Portland and Gorham; Route 34 from the Franconia Notch also joins it here. Thence the road leads on to Bretton Woods (80.5), where Route 50 comes up the Crawford Notch from North Conway. R. 10 7. East Bank: Bretton Woods to Colebrook. 59.0m. This section continues along the 'West Side Road,' a State Highway with light blue markers, from Twin Mountain, the radiating point for the White Mountain roads, to the Con- necticut river by way of Whitefield and Lancaster. The panorama of the Presidential Range to the east is especially fine throughout. Continuing, the route follows the east bank of the Connecticut to North Stratford and Colebrook. From Twin Mountain the route follows the blue-banded poles northward. The right fork (2.0) leads to Jefferson (R. 51). Turning left the route enters 13.7 WHITEFIELD. Alt 950 ft. Pop (twp) 1635. Coos Co. Mfg. overalls and seed-potato cutters. This village is the center of a summer life less gilt-edged but quite as happy as that of the hotel resorts a few miles to the south. Half a dozen roads radiate through the eastern ranges and the western hills to Jefferson, Twin Mountain, Maplewood, and Dalton. The route, with its light blue markers, keeps on northward. 22.0 LANCASTER. Alt 864 ft. Pop (twp) 3190. Half Shire Town of Coos Co. Settled 1764. Lancaster is a pleasant agricultural community at the con- fluence of Israel River and the upper Connecticut. Centennial Park, in the center of the town, commemorates the town's centennial in 1864; the bronze wolf was dedicated on the isoth anniversary in 1914. About the park are several fine old houses. At the head of Main St. is the Holten home- stead (1780), still occupied by the Holten family. The Me- morial Library was given by Senator John W. Weeks of Massa- chusetts, a native of the town. Turning to the left from Main St. along the State Road we reach the Junction, to the right of which stands the fine old Stockwell farm. The ell of the present residence was the home of Emmons Stockwell, one of R. 10 7. E. BANK: BRETTON WOODS. TO COLEBROOK 365 the two pioneer settlers. Nearby are the grounds of the Coos and Essex Agricultural Society, where an annual fair is held. Just south of the town is Mt. Prospect (2059 ft). A splen- did road leads to the summit, and the grade is at no point ex- cessive. Here is located Senator Weeks' summer home. On the summit is a stone tower erected by Senator Weeks, which is open to the public. The extended view includes the valleys of the Connecticut and Israel rivers, the Presidential Range, the Percy Peaks, and the Franconia Mountains, and the towns of Jefferson, Whitefield, and Bethlehem. On the slope of the hill is the summer home of another of the 'old guard,' Governor Samuel W. McCall of Massachusetts. Starr King says, "In the combined charm, for walks or rides, of meadow or river, the charm, not of wildness, but of cheerful brightness and beneficence, Lancaster is unrivaled." Lancaster was settled by David Page and Emmons Stockwell in 1764. The pioneers experienced no trouble from the Indians, as they had been subdued by Rogers' Rangers a few years before. The grant of the town, issued by Governor Wentworth, called for an annual payment of ships' masts to England, but none were ever delivered. 28.5 NORTHUMBERLAND. Alt 826 ft. Pop (twp) 2184. Coos Co. Mfg. pulp, lumber and paper. Across the. Connecticut in Vermont is Guildhall Falls. To the west are Mt. Burnside and Cow Mountain, and to the east, Mt. Lyon, Cape Horn, and Mt. Bellamy. The principal village in the township is Groveton (27.5), situated on the valley uplands near the confluence of the Upper Ammonoosuc and the Connecticut, between Bellamy and Morse Mountains. 37.5 STRATFORD HOLLOW. Pop (twp) 844. Coos Co. Stratford Hollow is a quiet little village surrounded by very attractive mountain scenery. The two remarkable Percy Peaks (3336 & 3149 ft) are situated in the southeast corner of the township. President Dwight said of the North Peak in 1803, "The most exact and beautiful cone which I ever beheld." The bare parts are of light-colored granite. Passing through the hamlet of Coos (41.0), sometimes called North Stratford Junction, the route continues to 59.0 COLEBROOK. Alt 1017 ft. Pop (twp) 1905. Half Shire Town of Coos Co. Mfg. lumber and foundry products. Colebrook, the most important town in this section lies at the base of Mt. Monadnock and Lombard's Hill. The town was named in honor of Sir George Colebrook, to whom it was originally granted in 1770. A good part of the potato starch of this country was formerly made here. The West Bank Route (p 360) also enters here and so does Route 42 from North Conway and Gorham. R. 11. NORWICH to WORCESTER. 84.0 m. Via WILLIMANTIC, STAFFORD SPRINGS, and SOUTHBRIDGE. This route leads through the heart of the hill towns of north- western Connecticut and southern Massachusetts. It follows the Connecticut State Highway to the Massachusetts line, the course of which is clearly marked by blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. Through Massachusetts it follows, for the most part, State Highway. R. 11 1. Norwich to Willimantic. 17.0 m. From Norwich (p 370) follow Broadway to the right of the City Hall along the general course of the Yantic river, the route marked in blue, to Yantic (4.0). The waterpower of the river here is utilized by local factories. At the fork the route bears right, crossing R.R. at the station and the iron bridge over the Yantic river. The course is now across the hills, amid attractive scenery, through 9.5 NORTH FRANKLIN. Pop (Franklin twp) 527. Inc. 1786. Note. From North Franklin the road to the right leads to Lebanon Station and Lebanon (4.0). Lebanon is now an unspoiled New Eng- land village, uninvaded by summer people, yet wears the well-pre- served air that results from thrift. The Common, of more than a hundred acres, extends through the center of the village. In pre- Revolutionary times Lebanon was a place of some importance. Here was the home of the Trumbulls, a family which vies with the Wolcotts and Griswolds in the number of its prominent men. Colonel John Trumbull, an aide to Washington, is best known as a painter, but still more famous was his brother Jonathan, who was Governor of Con- necticut from 1769 to 1783. He was Washington's chief counselor during the northern campaigns, and when perplexing difficulties arose Washington would say, "Let us see what Brother Jonathan can do." 'Brother Jonathan' has become the United States equivalent of John Bull, and the popular depiction of Uncle Sam perpetuates some of the physical characteristics of Governor Trumbull. The Trumbull man- sion, on the main street, was the residence of the Governor during the Revolution, where he entertained Washington, Lafayette, Rocham- beau, Jefferson, and Franklin. The Revolutionary war office is also still preserved, which supplied more men and money than any other State save Massachusetts. Eleazar Wheelock, while pastor at North Lebanon, now Columbia, established a school for Indians which, transferred to Hanover, N.H., became Dartmouth College (p36o). The route continues downgrade into the valley of the Shetucket river through South Windham (13.5) to 17.0 WILLIMANTIC (R. 3, p 214). (366) R. II 2. WILLIMANTIC TO WORCESTER 367 R. 11 2. Willimantic to Worcester. 67.0 m. From Willimantic follow Main St. westward, and at the fork beyond the Town Farm turn left on Coventry Road, following the blue markers. Columbia Road to the left, red markers, leads by Route 3 (p 214) to Hartford. The route follows the valley of the Willimantic river through Eagleville (6.6) to Mansfield Station (8.5). The village of Mansfield, two miles to the northeast, was the place of origin of the Connecticut silk industry. In 1793 the inhabitants received a bounty on 265 pounds of raw silk, and in 1829 the Mansfield Silk Company built the first factory for the production of sewing-silk. At Storrs, three miles east of Mansfield Station, is the Con- necticut State Agricultural College, founded in 1879, on a tract of 600 acres among the beautiful hills and streams of Tolland County. It is a well equipped institution attended by about 300 students. The route continues on up the valley of the Willimantic river through the hamlets of Merrow and South Willington, and past Tolland Station (14.0). The village of Tolland lies five miles west. It is a beautiful New England village, one of those 'flies preserved in amber' which have undergone little change in a century, once a county-seat and a town of considerable importance. The jail, no longer used, recalls departed glory. 20.0 STAFFORD SPRINGS. Alt 460 ft. Pop (twp) 5233. Tolland Co. Settled 1719. Mfg. woolen goods. This is a thriving little manufacturing town. The park in the center is the gift of a Massachusetts scion of the Hyde family of the town. The hospital and its endowment, in all $300,000, were given by the late Mr. and Mrs. Cyril Johnson. The Agricultural Society holds an annual fair. The mineral springs here were used by the Indians. About 1765 they began to attract visitors and for more than fifty years remained the principal health resort and watering place of New England. John Adams, afterward President, journeyed here on horseback from his home in Quincy and remained several days at a time. In his diary of June 2, 1771, he wrote, "Thirty people have been here today; the halt, the lame, the vapory, hypochondriac, scrofulous, etc., all resort here." In 1774 Dr. Joseph Warren established a sanitarium here. Of their decline in popularity Edward Everett Hale writes: "I am almost sorry to see that Stafford Springs is becoming a great manufacturing town. But the dear old hotel, where the invalids of a century ago repaired in their own carriages with their own spans of horses and their own negro drivers, is still extant, and, if you ask at the right place, they will show you the sign board which used to be displayed over the bath-house with this verse of Dr. Dwight's: '"O health, thou dearest source of bliss to man, I woo thee here, here at this far famed Spring.'" The State Road follows the valley of Furnace Brook through 368 STAFFORD SPRINGS WORCESTER Stafford (22.5) and Staffordsville (24.5), and crosses the Massa- chusetts line, marked by a monument (27.5), steadily ascend- ing past Wales Pond on the right to 30.5 WALES. Alt 900 ft. Pop (twp) 345 (1910), 337 (1915). Hamp- den Co. Inc. 1762. Originally a part of Brimfield, the village was named in 1828 in honor of James Lawrence Wales. Mt. Pisgah (1280 ft) rises to the west. The State Road, without markers, follows down the valley of Wells Brook to 34.5 BRIMFIELD. Alt 660 ft. Pop (twp) 866 (1910), 934 (1915). Hampden Co. Inc. 1731. In the Brimfield churchyard is buried General William Eaton, a U.S. army officer and afterward Consul at Tunis. In 1805 with a force of 400 Moslems and ipo Christians he marched from Cairo, Egypt, across the desert to Tripoli. With reckless bravery he stormed the ramparts of Derne and would have restored Hamet, the rightful Pasha, had not the United States meantime concluded a peace with the reigning Pasha. Eaton was forced to abandon his self-imposed task, and six years later died here in his home town. Derne Street, back of the State House in Boston, is the only commem- oration of this remarkable exploit. Note. Route i, connecting with central and western New England, is reached by the lefthand road, to Palmer (p 131). See Connecticut Map. The State Road follows the valley of Mill Brook through East Brimfield and Fiskdale (40.0) to 42.0 STURBRIDGE. Pop (twp) 1957 (1910) ,1618 (1915). Worces- ter Co. Indian name Tanquesque. Mfg. augers and bits. From Sturbridge the route passes to the south of Fisk Hill and through Globe Village to 46.0 SOUTHBRIDGE. Alt 500 ft. Pop (twp) 12,592 (1910), 14,217 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1816. Mfg. optical goods, cotton and woolen goods, cutlery, and shuttles. Southbridge, formerly known as 'Honest Town,' and now as 'Eyeglass Town,' is a busy manufacturing village on the Quinebaug river. It is the home of the American Optical Company, the largest makers of lenses in the country. The State Road leads northward along the valley of Cady Brook to Charlton City (52.0), where it turns west to 53.0 CHARLTON. Alt 888ft. Pop (twp) 2032 (1910), 2213 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1764. This was the birthplace of Dr. Wm. T. G. Morton (b. 1819), discoverer of the use of ether as an anesthetic. He obtained a patent for his great discovery under the name of "Letheon." The .State Road runs across the hills to North Oxford (58.5). where it joins Route 12 (p 375), with blue markers, to 67.0 WORCESTER (R. 1, p 136). R. 12. NEW LONDON to WORCESTER and CONCORD, N.H. 195.0m. Via NORWICH, PUTNAM, FITCHBURG, and PETERBORO. This north and south route through the heart of New Eng- land follows the valley of the Thames and its tributary, the Quinebaug, thence crosses the eastern hill country of Massa- chusetts, and from Peterboro follows the valley of the Contoo- cook northward. It traverses varied and interesting scenic regions, passes through many industrial towns, where one may feel the pulse of New England, and joins the east and west route across New Hampshire from Concord to Claremont. Though chiefly State Road it is a route which will probably be of avail chiefly in short sections for connecting links. R. 12 1. New London to Worcester. 77.0 m. From New London to Thompson and Worcester this route follows one of the primary north and south trunk lines of State Highway, throughout its course marked by blue markers. The first stretch is along the beautiful valley of the Thames, the scene of the Harvard-Yale boat races. Norwich is a manu- facturing city of great antiquarian interest. At the water- powers of the Quinebaug are numerous small industrial towns, each manufacturing its Yankee specialty. Timothy Dwight a century ago wrote of the road from New London to Nor- wich: "The road is a turnpike, the first which was made in the United States. The former road was perfectly fitted to force upon the public mind the utility of turnpike roads." From the Parade, New London, the route proceeds north- ward on State and Huntington Sts., or along Main St. past the Old Town Mill (p 163), both of which come together on William St. The route to the right, Mohegan Ave., followed by the trolley, is the old Mohegan Indian Trail. To the right and left are the extensive grounds of the new Connecticut College for Women, the buildings of which are on the hill to the left (p 164). The route runs straight ahead over Quaker Hill (200 ft). Below to the right we overlook the broad and beauti- ful estuary of the Thames river and the four-mile course, the scene since 1878 of the annual Harvard-Yale boat races. On the opposite shore is the United States Naval Torpedo Station, and just above, Red Top, the quarters of the Harvard crews, directly on the bank of the river. (369) 37 NEW LONDON NORWICH A mile further north on the further shore, on a beautiful peninsula, is Gales Ferry, the headquarters in June of the Yale crews, and during the summer of a Yale tutoring school. During the War of 1812 Commodore Decatur with three vessels was blockaded for over a year in the river above by the British ship "Wasp," which was long at anchor here. It is said that more than one Gales Ferry lassie perhaps disloyally lost her heart to the British naval officers. Decatur built a re- doubt on Allyn's Mountain to the north, now marked by a tablet on one of the boundary boulders. The route crosses Oxoboxo Brook. To the left lies the hamlet of Uncasville, named from the famous sachem who had so much to do with the early history of this region. Beyond the State Road crosses the crest of Mohegan Hill (300 ft). Below, on the river, is the village of Mohegan. In 1640 Uncas, the sachem of the Mohegans, ceded most of the terri- tory about Norwich to the Connecticut Colony, and when the white settlers came he removed with his tribe to this point. On the highest hill in the village are the remains of his old fortress, and on the Mo- hegan reservation in the vicinity there still dwells a small colony of half-breeds, the remnant of this once powerful tribe. The route continues along Thames St. through the manu- facturing suburb of Thamesville. Here is located the paper- board mill of the American Straw Board Company, one of the largest in the world, with a daily capacity of 125 tons. As we approach Norwich we have a fine view of the city with its commanding position on rising ground between the valleys of the Yantic and the Shetucket. Crossing the Yantic river by a bridge which reaches across intervening islands, the route follows Main St. into the center of 13.0 NORWICH. Alt 33 ft. Pop 24,637 (1910), 30,000 (loc. est. 1915); one fifth foreign-born. New London Co. Settled 1659. Mfg. cotton, woolens, velvet, paper, firearms, thermos bottles, boilers, envelope machinery, trunks. Value of Product, $10,000,000. Norwich, called the 'Rose of New England,' is one of the most beautiful cities of the State, occupying a sightly position between the valleys of the Yantic and the Shetucket, which here unite to form the Thames. This is the head of navigation and considerable commerce is carried on. The city and its surrounding suburbs have a hundred manufacturing plants and also many interesting memorials of Colonial days. Mrs. Lydia H. Sigourney, born in a house still standing at 380 Washington St., describes Norwich viewed from the eastern acclivity as "like a citadel, guarded by parapets of rock, and embosomed in an amphitheater of hills, whose sum- mits mark the horizon with a waving line of forest green." R. 12 I. NEW LONDON TO WORCESTER 371 Edmund Clarence Stedman, though not a native of Nor- wich, spent his younger years here and wrote affectionately: "Guarded by circling streams and wooded mountains, Like sentinels round a queen; Dotted with groves and musical with fountains, The city lies serene." Norwich was settled in 1659 by colonists from Saybrook under the leadership of Captain John Mason (1600-72), who had crushed the power of the Pequots at Fort Mystic in 1637, and the Rev. James Fitch, the pastor of the church, who became much interested in the welfare of the Mohegans. Previous to that time this site had been one of the principal residences of the Mohegans. As the counselor and friend of Uncas, the wise Mohegan sachem, Captain Mason was doubtless largely responsible for the deed of con- veyance signed by Uncas and his two sons at Saybrook in June, 1659, granting thirty-five proprietors the title to a tract nine miles square, called Mohegan until 1662, when it was renamed for the old English town. During the Revolution the citizens of Norwich were ardent patriots, and among their leaders were the Huntingtons, several of whom took part in the war and were members of Congress. Samuel Huntington was a member of the Continental Congress from 1775 to 1780, its president from 1779 to 1781, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and Governor of Connecticut from 1786 to 1796. His house still stands on East Town St. In December, 1767, in reply to the message from Boston, a town- meeting forbade the use of tea, wines, liquors, and foreign manufac- tures, and in 1770 the citizens were forbidden to hold intercourse with a school master who persisted in drinking tea. Norwich was chartered as a city in 1784 and at this time carried on a thriving commerce with the West Indies and the Atlantic ports. The embargo of 1807 and the War of 1812 proved a death-blow to the commerce; but the protectionism of 1813 resulted in a rapid development of manufacturing. Later John Fox Slater was interested in cotton mills at Taftville and Jewett City, and he and his son, William A. Slater, have been liberal benefactors of the town. The older parts of the city remain residential and the factories are on the outskirts, as at Thamesville, Greenville, Taftville, Yantic, and Occum. The city occupies the narrow strips between the rivers, the gneiss ledges of the hills, and the little island formed by the division of the Yantic river. The business part of the city forms a sort of semicircle, from which the residential streets rise in terraces. At Chelsea Parade is the Norwich Free Academy (1856), which takes the place of a public high school, and here is the Slater Memorial Hall, in which are the Peck Library and the Converse Art Collection. From this point Sachem Street leads to the falls of the Yantic, with their "beetling cliffs, the compressed channel, the confused mass of granite, and the roaring, foaming river." A dam diverts the water by an artificial channel to the numerous factories. Mohegan Park, a tract of natural woodland in the heart of the city, the gift of private individuals, is accessible for vehicles and pedestrians from Washington St. and Rockwell St. Chel- sea Parade and the Little Plain on Broadway were also gifts 372 NORWICH DANIELSON of generous citizens, as were the Meeting House Rocks up- town and Lowthorpe Meadows opposite the Coit Elms. On Sachem St., near the falls, is the little Indian cemetery with the grave of Uncas, marked by a granite shaft, the corner- stone of which was laid by Andrew Jackson in 1833. Uncas was a Pequot who in 1634 revolted against the Sachem Sassa- cus and joined the Mohegans, who elected him sachem of the tribe, over which he ruled for fifty years until his death in 1683. He always remained a firm friend of the colonists. The Pequots and Mohegans were of the same race as the Hudson River Mohegans, but shortly before 1600 migrated eastward, fighting their way into southeastern Connecticut. This spot has always been the burial ground for the "royal blood of Mohegan," and many of the grand sachems are buried here. The last of the line was Mazeen, who was buried here in 1826. Northeast of the Catholic Cemetery beyond Greenville, on a rocky bluff in the extreme eastern part of the city, is a monument erected in 1841 to Miantonomoh, a sachem of the Narragansetts who was captured here in 1643 by the Mohe- gans and taken to Hartford, where Uncas had him executed. Norwich contains a number of old houses which will interest the antiquarian. The Thomas Lathrop house, in which Mrs. Lydia H. Sigourney was born and passed her girlhood, is described in her "Letters of Life" and "Connecticut Forty Years Since." The homes of General Jabez Huntington and his sons of Revolutionary fame, the Coit homestead, and the Coit Elms are alluded to by Holmes in the "Autocrat of the Breakfast Table." The house in which David A. Wells, the famous economist, lived for several years stands on Washing- ton St. below Broad. Norwich was the birthplace of Benedict Arnold, the traitor, Donald G. Mitchell, 'Ik Marvel,' and of Daniel C. Gilman, President of Johns Hopkins University. The house of Aaron Cleveland, great-grandfather of Grover, still stands on West Town St. at Bean Hill. Nearby is the shop in which he carried on the business of a silversmith. The fore- bears of Presidents Fillmore, Grant, Hayes, Garfield, and Cleveland lived in Norwich. The Adams Express Company was first started as a route between Norwich, New London, and New York by the boat lines. At Norwich and in the surrounding villages, located at available waterpowers, are some of the largest cotton mills of the country. The J. B. Martin Company produces 1,000,000 yards of velvet annually, the U.S. Finishing Company 85,000,000 yards per annum, the Totokett Mills, to the north at Occum, 2,000,000 yards of cotton goods, and the Falls Company 5,500,000 yards of fine cotton goods and awnings. The R. 12 i. NEW LONDON TO WORCESTER 373 Hopkins & Allen Arms Company's plant has a large output of firearms of all descriptions, and has recently been manufac- turing military rifles for the Belgian Government. The Ameri- can Thermos Bottle Company has its large factory here and ships its products to all parts of the world. Leaving Norwich we follow North Main St. and Central Ave., parallel with the Shetucket river, bearing left with trolley through Greenville (14.5). The mills of the Shetucket Com- pany here produce annually 6,000,000 yards of denims. At Taft Station the road forks, the lefthand road leading north along the valley of the Shetucket to Taftville, one of the most important of the manufacturing suburbs of Norwich. Here are the great Ponemah Cotton Mills, among the largest in the country, with an output of 22,000,000 yards a year. The main route bears right with the blue markers, following the valley of the Quinebaug. At Jewett City (22.0) bear left, crossing R.R., curving right by Clayville Pond, and passing straight through the village of 28.5 PLAINFIELD. Alt 177 ft. Pop (twp) 6719. Windham Co. Settled 1689. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods. Plainfield was settled in 1689 from Chelmsford, Mass. Its 'plains' were called Egypt by the surrounding settlements on account of the great quantities of corn which were raised. Note. A mile and a half beyond the village the righthand road leads to Moosup and Providence. See Conn., and R.I. Maps. At Central Village (31.5) keep to the right, following the blue markers on telegraph poles to 38.0 DANIELSON. Alt 226 ft. Pop (twp) 2934. Windham Co. Mfg. shoes, cotton, woolen, shuttles, and mill supplies. Danielson is a pleasantly situated village with several cotton mills and shoe factories which utilize the power furnished by the Quinebaug and the Five Mile rivers, which join here. Originally part of Killingly, it was named for General James Danielson, the builder of the first house in the settlement. Note. The righthand road leads to Providence. From Danielson -we continue to ascend through a hilly and well wooded country along the valley of Five Mile River. This region was formerly a part of the Indian districts of Attawaugan and Minnetixit. The Narragansetts once gave the Nipmucks, who inhabited this region, a great seashore feast, and the following year they were in- vited to these uplands to eat venison. A quarrel arose during the banquet and the Narragansetts were massacred. Their tribe marched a strong force into the Nipmuck country to seek revenge, but received a severe defeat at the fords of the Quinebaug. 374 KILLINGLY WORCESTER 41.0 KILLINGLY. Alt 250 ft. Pop (twp) 6564. Windham Co. Inc. 1708. Mfg. cotton and woolens, and whip-sockets. The first contribution to the college which later became Yale was the gift of John Fitch of Norwich of 637 acres of land in Killingly. With this he gave enough glass and nails for a college hall. Cotton mills were established here early in the nineteenth century. "A very extraordinary discovery was made in this town," says an old gazetteer, "a living frog having been dug out of the earth, 3 feet below the surface. It was enclosed or embodied in a stratum of clay; and, on being disengaged, left a distinct figure of the frog, resembling a mould. The frog when discovered, was in a torpid state; but on coming to the air, it became animated, and acquired strength and power, and soon added one to the race of living animals." 47.0 PUTNAM (R. 3, p 216). Route 3, from New York and Hartford, here crosses east and west. See Conn. Map. Note. The shortest route to Thompson leads out School St. through Mechanicsville, at the junction of the Quinebaug and French rivers. The State Highway, with blue markers, leaves Putnam via Woodstock Ave. and curves north through West Thompson to 53.0 THOMPSON. Alt 428 ft. Pop (twp) 4804. Windham Co. Inc. 1785. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods. This was an important post road town in Colonial days. The inn was built here in 1831 by Vernon Stiles, an interesting character of the town. It was by means of the complicated stairways in this inn that Governor Dorr, of Dorr's Rebellion (p 187), escaped from his pursuers. Note. From Thompson Station a shorter route runs directly north to Lake Chaubunagungamaug. The State Road, with its blue markers, swings eastward through East Thompson (55.3), in the extreme northeastern corner of the State. Immediately after crossing the State line (57.0), the State Road skirts the shore of the lake which rejoices in the name of Chaugogagogmanchaugagogchaubunagungamaug. It is "three miles in length," a local authority says, not specifying whether the name or the sheet of water. In any case it is one of the largest lakes in Massachusetts. The name, usually abbrevi- ated to the last six syllables that on the map it may not extend across the whole of New England and get lost in the ocean, means, "You fish on your side, I fish on my side, nobody shall fish in the middle." The region about here was much revered by the Nipmuck Indians, who believed it to be the home of the Great Spirit. East Webster (60.0) lies on the shore at the north end of the lake. A mile to the east is the town of R. 12 2. WORCESTER TO CONCORD, N.H. 375 WEBSTER. Alt 440 ft. Pop (twp) 11,509 (1910), 12J81 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1832. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods, and shoes. This is one of the mill towns of Massachusetts, utilizing the waterpower of the French river. Its importance dates from 1812, when Samuel Slater founded the cotton mills. In 1832 it was set off from the towns of Oxford and Dudley, and named in honor of Daniel Webster, then at the height of his fame. The Slater Mills have made the town what it is. Here is made most of the cloth for the uniforms of the United States Army, Pullman porters, and much of that used by hotel porters and bell boys throughout the country. In 1912 the company produced 1,250,000 pieces of cotton and 90,000 pieces of woolens and worsteds. At the Slater residences in East Webster, Mrs. Horatio N. Slater and her daughters entertained the mill hands, at the wedding of Miss Esther Slater in 1915, the Boston and Blue Hill residences being more frequented by the family. 64.0 OXFORD. Alt 516 ft. Pop (twp) 3361 (1910), 3407 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1683. Indian name Manchaug. Mfg. cotton, woolens, and shoes. Oxford is a pleasant tree-shaded town with shoe factories and cotton and woolen mills. The town was named in honor of the university in England. At Fort Hill are the remains of a bastioned fort built by French Huguenots who settled here in 1683. A few years later they were so alarmed by the Indians that they returned to Boston. At North Oxford (68.5) bear right, following macadam State Road, with blue markers. Route n (p 368) enters here from Stafford Springs and Southbridge. Pass through the village of Auburn (73.0) and beyond cross over the R.R., bear- ing left. As we enter Worcester, Holy Cross College is on a hill to the right. We enter on Southbridge St., curving into Main St. with Route i, from New York and Springfield. 77.0 WORCESTER (R. 1, p 136). R. 12 2. Worcester to Concord, N.H. 118.0 m. Via FITCHBURG and PETERBORO. This section of the route follows a north and south trunk line State Road the course of which is clearly indicated by blue bands on poles and posts as far as Fitchburg. Leaving Worcester City Hall via Main St. the route turns left on Salisbury St. past the Armory, through Grove St. and Park Ave. to Chadwick Square. Taking right fork on West Boylston St. we leave the Fair Grounds and Indian Lake to 376 WORCESTER E. JAFFREY the left. Passing through Barbers Crossing (3.0), after cross- ing R.R. turn left with trolley and follow the blue markers, passing Greendale Station on the left (3.5). The route crosses an arm of Wachusett Reservoir, of which there are several fine views, by a stone bridge to 8.0 WEST BOYLSTON. Alt 439 ft. Pop (twp) 1270 (1910), 1309 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1720. Mfg. pipe organs. West Boylston, now a farming and residential community, was formerly something of a manufacturing town. It was the home of Robert B. Thomas (1766-1847), astronomer and philosopher, who in 1793 originated the "Old Farmer's Alma- nack," and continued its publication for fifty years. Pipe organs are still made here by G. W. Reed & Son. The great Nashua Storage Reservoir, or Wachusett Reservoir, with a circumference of 35 miles and an area of 4000 acres, is the largest body of water in Massachusetts and one of the largest storage reser- voirs in the world, with a capacity of 63,068,000,000 gallons. It is considerably larger than the Nira Basin at Poona, India, the San Mateo Basin in California, or the Croton Reservoir of New York. As a part of the Boston Metropolitan Water System it supplies not only Boston but most of the cities and towns within a ten-mile radius. A natural lake existed here, formed by the widening of the Nashua river. The great dam built at Clinton (1896-1905) flooded parts of Clinton, Sterling, and Boylston, and practically submerged the little village of West Boylston, the State buying up the farms and dwellings. From the reservoir the water is carried in a covered aqueduct about ii feet wide and 10 feet high to Northboro and thence in an open channel to Reservoir Number Five of the Sudbury System. From the Sudbury reservoir there is a second aqueduct which branches at Weston into two pipe lines, to Arlington and to the Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Beyond Sterling Junction (10.5) the road, marked with blue, skirts the Waushaccum ponds, passes Sterling Inn, a favorite resort of motorists, on the left, and reaches 13.0 STERLING. Alt 494 ft. Pop (twp) 1359 (1910), 1403 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1701. Indian name Chocksett. East of the town is Redstone Hill (620 ft), so named from the color of the rocks, due to traces of iron. In the middle of the eighteenth century a shaft was sunk here about a hundred feet in search of precious metals. Sterling was purchased in 1701 from the Nashua Sachem, Tahanto, a nephew of Sholan. It was later named for Stirling, Scotland. 20.0 LEOMINSTER. Alt 404 ft. Pop (twp) 17,580 (1910), 17,646, (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1740. Mfg. combs, furni- ture, paper, buttons, pianos, baby carriages, worsteds, cot- tons, woolens, shirts. Value of Product, $7,501,720. Leominster is known as the 'baby city' of Massachusetts, for it celebrated its 17 5th anniversary as a town by adopting the city form of government, electing its first mayor in 1915. It is a^manufacturing center; some seventy different industries produce minor articles of daily use. The Special U.S. Census R. 12 2. WORCESTER TO CONCORD, N.H. 377 of Manufactures of 1905 states that the township had in that year a greater variety of important manufacturing industries than any other town of its size in the State. The manufacture of horn hairpins and combs originated here and has thrived steadily. Of the various substitutes for horn, viscoloid, made here, is sold in large quantities to manufac- turers elsewhere. Leominster has the largest baby-carriage factory in the world. The Geo. W. Wheelwright Co. has a large mill here for the manufacture of bristol board. See p 800. From Leominster the route follows the blue markers to South Fitchburg, entering Main St. 24.5 FITCHBURG (R. 15, p 419). The route follows Main St. past the City Hall. At the iron watering trough in the fork it bears right along the Park fol- lowing Mechanic St. northward. Straight ahead, River St. leads to Greenfield, Route 15, and Winchendon, Route 33. A good State Road, telegraph poles unmarked, runs to 32.0 ASHBY. Alt 900 ft. Pop (twp) 885 (1910), 911 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc 1767. Ashby is a typical old New England town, made up from portions of other towns. The early settlement suffered severely from the Indians, but the settlers refused to abandon the set- tlement and repelled all attacks. Five miles from Ashby the road passes Watatic Pond and between Watatic Mountain (1860 ft) to the north and Little Watatic Mountain (1560 ft) to the south. A few miles beyond we cross the New Hampshire line, from which the road is plainly indicated by gray markers on poles and fence posts. 63.0 WEST RINDGE. Alt 1090 ft. Pop (twp) 706. Cheshire Co. Settled 1739. Rindge lies in the midst of a hilly lake region, unlike most portions of New England, sandy and forested, while the farms lie on the hill slopes. The town is on the watershed of the Connecticut and Merrimack rivers. There are several houses so situated that the water from one side of the roof flows into the Merrimack and from the other into the Connecticut. Thirteen ponds lie within the borders of the town, of which Monomock Lake is the largest. Here are the headwaters of the Contoocook river. From West Rindge the route follows R.R. to East Jaffrey through a marshy valley, passing a number of ponds. 66.5 EAST JAFFREY. Alt 1026 ft. Pop 1895. Cheshire Co. Mfg. wooden ware and tacks. East Jaffrey is a pleasant little village visited in summer on account of its high, bracing situation and its proximity to 378 E. JAFFREY PETERBORO Monadnock. The frame of the village church was raised on June 17, 1775, and so patriotic were the townspeople that they claimed that they could hear the cannonading of Bunker Hill. The beautiful cone of Mt. Monadnock (3186 ft) rises strik- ingly to the northwest. A symmetrical and isolated rock mass, it is, as Prof. W. M. Davis writes, one of the "last remaining hard-rock kernels of once much higher mountain masses, now nearly worn away." From East Jaffrey a road leads northwest through the hamlet of Jaffrey to the Mountain House, which lies on the southern slope of Monadnock at an elevation of about 2000 feet ; there is a good path, a mile and a half long, to the summit. From East Jaffrey to Peterboro we follow the gray markers through the uplands of the valley of the Contoocook. Ahead on the right is the lofty ridge of Pack Monadnock. About the last of June the mountain laurel is very fine hereabout. 73.S PETERBORO. Alt 744 ft. Pop (twp) 2277. Hillsboro Co. Settled 1739. Mfg. cotton, woolen, trusses, thermometers, chairs, and baskets. Peterboro is a picturesque manufacturing village in the val- ley of the Contoocook, amid the green hills of the Monadnock range. The region about is surrounded by country estates and has become widely known through the summer activities of the MacDowell Association and the Sargent Camp. At the center is the old Wilson Tavern, now known as Cross- roads, over a century old, containing twenty-one rooms and eleven fireplaces, a secret hiding hole capable of concealing six or eight persons, and pockets in the floor for the storage of treasures and documents. On the 'Old Street Road' is a boulder with a memorial tablet erected by the D.A.R. and marked "Site of First Tavern/ in this town kept in i775/ by/ Major Robert Wilson/ was fifty feet west of this spot/ from which on April 19, I775/ the men marched in response to/ the Lexington alarm." The town claims the first free town library in the world, estab- lished in 1833, said to be the first supported wholly by popu- lar taxation. This unique claim was of assistance to Andrew Carnegie in 1902 when he was looking for a chance to give some money to a library, for in recognition of it he gave $5000, the interest of which is devoted to the purchase of books. The brick church of 1825 is from designs by Bulfinch. Off to the right is the picturesque Contoocook with factories lining a portion of its banks. On a ridge to the east of the town, where are now the three residences of the Cheney estate, stood the old town meeting house of 1777. Further east are the summits of North Pack Monadnock R. 12 2. WORCESTER TO CONCORD, N.H. 379 (2257 ft) and Pack Monadnock (2280 ft) on which is Miller Park, the oldest in New Hampshire, named in honor of General James Miller, a distinguished officer of the War of 1812 and a native of Peterboro. On the south side of the narrow notch is Temple Mountain (2081 ft). Peterboro was the summer home of Edward MacDowell, "America's greatest composer," who did much of his work in a log cabin here in the woods. His farm, Hillcrest, a mile west of the village, has been deeded to the MacDowell Memorial Association by his widow. The aim of this colony is to allow its members to lead the free and simple life which proved such an inspiration to the man whose name it bears. It is not con- fined to any one of the arts, and musicians, artists, and literary folk enjoy its membership. Each artist has his own log cabin studio, and must be engaged in creative work. This is prac- tically the only requirement. Among those who usually spend their summers here is Arthur Nevin, the composer. In August, IQIO, a memorial pageant to MacDowell was given under the direction of Prof. George P. Baker. MacDowell's own music was adapted and the lyrics were written by Hermann Hagedorn. Jeremiah Smith, Chief Justice and Governor of New Hamp- shire, was born here. He was a member of the Continental Army, and his son, Judge Jeremiah Smith, who is still very active, is one of the few remaining sons of a Revolutionary soldier. Others of prominence who have lived here are George Shattuck Morison, whom Edward Everett Hale called the 'King of American Engineers,' and C. F. Pierce. Present resi- dents include Robert P. Bass, Ex-governor of the State. Prof. W. H. Schofield, Prof. J. D. M. Ford, and Prof. J. B. Brackett, all of Harvard, are summer residents. The first settlers were Scotch Presbyterians from Ireland. They were not used to the hardships of frontier life and endured great suf- fering. The nearest grist mill was at Townsend, twenty-five miles away, and the road a path indicated by marked trees. An unbroken forest stood between here and Canada. There has been some dispute as to the exact date of settlement, but reference to the petition for incorporation seems to settle that point and possibly explains the divergence of opinion. " We have continued increasing since the year 1739 except sometimes when we left said township for fear of being destroyed by the enemy, who several times drove us from our settle- ments soon after we began, and almost ruined many of us." Leaving Peterboro, the route crosses the Contoocook and turns left, following the gray markers beside the river, which it crosses at North Village. Crossing R.R. at Nahor Station, the road traverses the "Swamp Woods." A mile and a half to the west is Halfmoon Lake, the site of Dr. Dudley A. Sar- gent's Camp, for all-the-year-round physical training. 380 HANCOCK CONCORD 81.0 HANCOCK. Alt 900 ft. Pop (twp) 642. Hillsboro Co. This quiet village, named for John Hancock, is the center of a small summer colony. Most of the towns in this region were founded during the first half of the eighteenth century as agricultural communities. By 1850 the decline of farming and the migration of the younger generation to the cities caused a decrease of population, now partly offset by the development of manufacturing. From Hancock the route bears to the right at the band- stand and follows the gray markers into Bennington township. Here it crosses and recrosses the Contoocook river and the R.R. 87.0 ANTRIM. Alt 608 ft. Pop (twp) 1235. Hillsboro Co. Set- tled 1744. Mfg. cutlery, cribs, cradles, and caskets. This fine old country town provides for human requirements from the cradle to the grave. It was incorporated in 1777 and named for a town in the north of Ireland. By 1820 it was a prosperous farming community with a population of over 1300, but by 1870 the population had sunk to 900. The development of manufacturing has brought it up nearly to its old level, but the town is still smaller than it was a century ago. In the region round about there are a number of glacial boulders. The gran- ite boulder on Robbs Mountain is 35 feet long and 18 feet high. 94.5 HILLSBORO. Alt 600 ft. Pop (twp) 2168. Hillsboro Co. Mfg. woolens, knit goods, and lumber. Hillsboro is a pleasant village with an active Board of Trade and a little manufacturing, as well as an abundance of unde- veloped waterpower. The old Pierce Mansion is the birthplace of President Franklin Pierce (1804-69). 101.5 HENNIKER. . Alt 440 ft. Pop 1395. Merrimack Co. Mfg. bicycle rims, leatherboard, toys, and boxes. The village lies on the crossroads of the Contoocook route and a road from Manchester to Lake Sunapee. The town was incorporated in 1768 and bears the name of Sir John Henniker, a London merchant. Proctor Square is named for the poetess Edna Dean Proctor, a native, who still summers here. Mary Cheney Beach, the composer, was also born here. The route follows the gray markers eastward to 110.5 HOPKINTON. Pop (twp) 1578. Merrimack Co. Settled 1737. This is a hamlet in the midst of a good farming country. On its handsome main street is the homestead of Captain Joshua Bailey, who marched his company to Bennington Fight in 1777. A mile west on Putney Hill is an ancient burying ground and the ruins of Putney Fort, a Colonial redoubt. Note. The Lake Sunapee road from Concord via Hopkin- ton, Warner, and Newbury turns north (R. 34, note). The route follows the gray markers to 118.0 CONCORD (R. 34). R. 13. ALBANY to BOSTON. 187.5 m. Via PITTSFIELD and SPRINGFIELD. This is the most traveled route from the Hudson and the West to Boston and the New England coast. The route fol- lows the course of the turnpike of 1800, and traverses the Taconic range, attaining a maximum elevation of 1440 feet. From Pittsfield to Lenox and Lee it passes through one of the most interesting portions of the Berkshires, thence it crosses the eastern Berkshire highlands, reaching an altitude of 1400 feet, and descends the valley of the Westfield river to Springfield, where it joins Route i (p 121), from New York to Boston. The route is for the most part excellent State Highway, in Massachusetts marked throughout by red bands on telegraph poles and fence posts at frequent intervals. Two variations of this route are possible: Route 5 (p 253) leads from Pittsfield to Williamstown or North Adams, there meeting Route 15 (p 409), which leads by the Mohawk Trail through Greenfield and Fitchburg to Boston; the second, Route 14, leads from Pittsfield to Dalton and Cummington to Northampton, connecting with Route 10 (p 312) and joining Route i at Springfield and Route 15 at Greenfield. R. 13 1. Albany to Pittsfield. 37.0 m. This route traverses the rolling farming region east of the Hudson, following with slight variations the Albany Turnpike of 1800. As it ascends into the foothills of the Taconics it passes through a series of Shaker settlements and crosses the Taconic range at an altitude of 1440 feet and thence descends about 400 feet to the broad meadows of the upper Housatonic. The route leaves Albany, State and Pearl Sts., left on S. Pearl St., turn left on S. Ferry St. to the Rensselaer toll bridge ( 10 to 15 cts.), across the Hudson to 1.0 RENSSELAER. Alt 80 ft. Pop 11,210 (1915). Rensselaer Co. Mfg. felt, knit goods, leather, and machinery; pork- packing and R.R. repairs. Rensselaer is a manufacturing suburb of Albany with but little of interest. It takes its name from Killian van Rensse- laer, who planted a colony here known as Rensselaerwyck. Fort Cralo, built in 1642, was Washington's headquarters for a time. The most important industry is the felt mill of F. C. Huyck & Sons, which is one of the largest in the world. Turn left from Broadway into Columbia St., leading out on the highway. On either side are rich farm lands, with brick buildings, dating often from the time of the Dutch patroons. Passing through East Greenbush the road continues to (381) 382 SCHODACK CENTER PITTSFIELD 7.5 SCHODACK CENTER. Alt 350 ft. Pop (twp) 4780. Rens- selaer Co. Settled 1795. This is a quiet little village in which the leading enterprise is the manufacture of piano actions and keys, which are reported to be turned out in larger quantities here than in any other spot on earth. Four miles southwest, by the Hudson, is the little village of Castleton, where Hendrik Hudson landed in 1609 and noted the richness of the soil. He was lavishly feasted on roast dog by the Indians and in turn entertained them on fire-water and Dutch tobacco, "the spirit waters of Paradise" and the pipe of peace. At this time the native popula- tion was large, but by 1638 they were more than decimated by famine and the ravages of smallpox, spread among them by the traders as on the New England coast. Dutch nomenclature still appears in the names of the streams. Muitzes Kill, or Creek, which we cross after leaving Schodack, is accounted for by the following legend: "Muitzes Kill is believed to commemorate the fact that over one hundred and fifty years ago a female who was crossing the stream, attired as was the custom of the day in a large Dutch cap or hat, was unfortunate enough to have the valued article carried by the sportive wind into the stream. As the distracted woman saw her hat floating away she cried out in frantic tones, 'De muts is in de kil! de muts is in de kil!' and hence the name of the stream to this day." The road climbs very gradually toward the distant Taconic range through the hamlet of 13.0 NASSAU. Alt 400 ft. Pop 597 (1915). Rensselaer Co. Settled 1760. Mfg. piano actions. The old brick houses and Dutch names still bear evidence of Dutch Colonial times, when the Knickerbocker family figured largely in the country about here. The route continues up the beautiful Lebanon Valley through the hamlets of Brainard, West Lebanon, and Lebanon Center to 26.0 NEW LEBANON. Alt 750 ft. Pop (twp) 1378. Columbia Co. Settled 1785. Mfg. pharmaceutical preparations. New Lebanon's chief claim to national fame is as the birth- place of Samuel J. Tilden, the statesman who became famous as the successful opponent of the Tweed Ring and later as the unsuccessful candidate for the Presidency in 1876, when the election was so close as to require the creation of the Electoral Commission by special Act of Congress. He lies buried in the cemetery at the foot of the hills. The Tilden residence is on the site of Jones's Tavern, a famous inn in coaching days. The family still have an interest in the Tilden Chemical Com- pany, manufacturing essences and extracts. This industry originated among the Shakers, whose herb collectors were formerly famous for the medicines and drafts which they prepared. On the mountainside in full view from all parts of the valley is the famous Shaker Community, who give a hos- pitable welcome to visitors. R. 13 I. ALBANY TO PITTSFIELD 383 The settlement was founded by 'Mother' Ann Lee, an English immigrant, in 1785. The church then built is still standing. This quaint community holds to- the principle that property should be owned in common and that celibacy is the highest form of life, while the marriage state is a distinct falling from grace. Hence it has come about that their numbers have diminished for some time past, although they still form a fairly large and prosperous body, recruiting their numbers by adoption. They busy themselves with weaving, knitting, and other household crafts in accordance with the instructions of their founder; their products have a wide reputation. Two miles to the north at the foot of the Lebanon ridge is the vil- lage of Lebanon Springs, where the mineral waters were used by the Indians for scores of years before the white men came. In 1800 a certain Captain Hitchcock benefited by them in health and in pocket and instituted the nucleus of the present Columbia Hall and its baths. On the old treasured hotel register are found the names of Adams, Van Buren, Lafayette, Webster, Longfellow, Willis, Gallatin, and other statesmen and literary lights of the early nineteenth century. The road north through Lebanon Springs leads to Williams- town across the Taconic range. Skirting the Knob (1602 ft) rising abruptly to the south, the road commences to climb the Taconics. This is an unusually long ascent, but the grade is gentle. This notch is the gateway to the Berkshires. At the summit, where we reach an eleva- tion of nearly 1500 feet, there is a magnificent prospect down the Lebanon or Wyomanock valley, the Catskills in the back- ground to the southwest and the Adirondacks on the horizon to the northwest. The boundary between New York and Massachusetts is almost at the summit of the pass, with Perry Peak (2060 ft) on the right. Eastward stretches a fertile plateau surrounded by bold hills and dotted with placid vil- lages and well-kept estates. The route, indicated from the Massachusetts line by the red bands on poles and posts, descends for a mile or two and then passes through the Shaker village of West Pittsfield. Here rumor has it that the devil was caught unawares one day and run to earth by the Shakers, who slew him, as they fondly hoped for- ever and aye, leaving him buried in the hollow of the hills. The long crest to the southwest, some three miles from the village, is variously named: the northern end is Yokun Seat, named for a chief of the local tribe; the central height is Osce- ola Mountain (2120 ft); and the furthermost point is Lenox Mountain. Just beyond it, to the south, is West Stockbridge Mountain. The route follows Parker Ave. and West St. into 37.0 PITTSFIELD. Alt 1037 ft. Pop. 32,121 (1910), 39,607 (1915), including many Italians, Russians, and Poles. County-seat of Berkshire Co. Settled 1743. Indian name Pontoosuc, "falls on the brook." Mfg. electrical machinery, stationery, woolen and worsted goods, knit goods, spool silk. Value of Product (1913), $23,919,000; Payroll, $6,117,000. The commercial center of Berkshire County, Pittsfield is 384 PITTSFIELD both an industrial city and a summer resort and a place of resi- dence. Situated in the heart of the beautiful Berkshire hills, surrounded by the broad Pontoosuc meadows of the upper Housatonic at an elevation of about 1000 feet, its beauty of position invites residence, while the two branches of the Hou- satonic which flow on either side of the city provide power for its industries. Pittsfield seems to have solved the problem of "How to be Busy yet Beautiful," as the Board of Trade puts it. In the first decade of this century its population increased 48 per cent, its taxable valuation, 64 per cent, and the capital invested in manufacturing, 171 per cent. The industrial dis- trict lies mainly to the north of the center, while the residential region looks southward down the valley toward Lenox. Pitts- field is the center of a trolley system extending through the Housatonic valley from Bennington, Vt., to Canaan, Conn. During the season two through trains of parlor cars run from Great Barrington to Bennington, Vt., daily and return. All routes meet at Park Square in the center of the city, about which are clustered most of the places of interest. In the small Park, a sun-dial marks the -site of the Berkshire Elm, the wonder of all beholders, said to have been over 300 years old and over 120 feet high before it died in 1861. The first agricultural fair in America was held beneath its shade in 1809, and here in 1825 Lafayette was feted. In the Square stands a statue, by Launt Thompson, of "The Massachusetts Color Bearer," a replica of which is at Gettysburg. The First Church, north of the Square, stands on the site of the old meeting house, where for forty-six years preached 'Fighting Parson Allen,' fire-eating chaplain of the Berkshire troops at Bennington in August, 1777, where he prayed and shot with equal zest. The Berkshire Athenaeum contains a valuable col- lection of books, whose thorough indexing and full and home-like hospitality attract students from places as remote as Boston, Providence, and Chicago. The Museum of Natural History and Art, presented to the town by Zenas Crane, stands on the site of Easton's Tavern, where the capture of Ticonderoga was planned. Here is preserved the desk on which Hawthorne wrote "The House of Seven Gables" while living in the "little red cottage" at Lenox; the original "One Hoss Shay" which inspired the poem of Oliver Wendell Holmes ; the sledge which carried Lieutenant Peary to the North Pole; and a collection of paintings, statuary, antiquities, and natural history. At East and Appleton Sts. is Elm Knoll, now the Plunkett homestead. "Somewhat back from the village street Stands the old-fashioned country-seat. Across its antique portico R. 13 I. ALBANY TO PITTSFIELD 385 Tall poplar trees their shadows throw; And from its station in the hall An ancient timepiece says to all, Forever never ! Never forever! " Though an old clock still stands on the stairs, the original long ago was taken to Boston. At the time of writing the poem, this was known as the Gold house, and was the home of Mrs. Longfellow's maternal grandfather, Thomas Gold, a leading lawyer and a man of broad influence. It was during his time "In that mansion, used to be Free-hearted Hospitality." While visiting here on his wedding journey in 1843 the idea of the poem was suggested to Longfellow, although it was not written until two years later when at home in Cambridge. In his diary under date of Nov. 12, 1845, appears this note: "Began a poem on a clock with the words 'Forever, never' as the burden; suggested by the words of Bridaine, the old French missionary, who said of eternity 'C'est une pendule dont le balancier dit et redit sans cesse ces deux mots seulement dans le silence des tombeaux, Toujours, jamais! Jamais, toujours!'" The Rectory of St. Stephen's, a fine Colonial mansion of 1773, was left to the parish on condition that it should always be inhabited by gentlefolk. There are many heirlooms treas- ured here, and an Inness portrait of Susan Gouverneur. ' Onota Lake, two miles to the northwest of the center of Pittsfield, is reached by Peck's Road. Its Indian name signifies "white deer," and a legend lingers of a white deer, worshiped by the Mohegan Indians who frequented the shores of the lake, the death of which was believed by them to presage the extinction of their tribe. In the first French-Indian War, Montal- bert, a French officer, sent to incite the Housatonic Indians against the English, bribed Wando, a drunken Indian, to kill the deer as a trophy for King Louis. Its death brought disaster, for the Frenchman was himself slain before reaching Montreal, and the Indians were soon after driven out of the country. Pontoosuc Lake, called by the Indians Skoonkeek and Moonkeek, "over the mountain," a mile north, is the source of the west branch of the Housatonic. Along its shores are many summer cottages. In the Park between these lakes is Balance Rock, a pyramidal limestone boulder of 165 tons, standing firmly on its apex as it was left by the glaciers which transported it from the north. Near it is Cross Rock, with a curious cruciform crevice, and Split Rock, a great boulder cleft by the persistent growth of a birch tree. From this park there is a glorious view of the northern Berkshires and the Taconics, with Constitution Hill in the foreground. Against the north- ern horizon is Greylock (3505 ft), sixteen miles away, the highest mountain in the State. 386 PITTSFIELD In the vicinity of Pittsfield are many beautiful modern sum- mer estates, notably Tor Court, the $400,000 residence of Warren M. Salisbury of Chicago. The Maplewood Hotel is an historic institution. Here was built in 1829 the Gymna- sium, a school for young men. In 1841 it became the Pittsfield Young Women's Institute. In 1857 the Rev. C. V. Spear maintained here the Maplewood Institute, a school for girls, which attained a national reputation. Later it became the property of Oberlin College. Since 1891 it has been a hotel. "All of the present town of Pittsfield, except one thousand acres, was the property of my great-grandfather, who owned a section six miles square, bought of the Province." So writes Oliver Wendell Holmes about Jacob Wendell, for whom the tentative settlement of I 73S~43 was called Wendell's Town as well as Boston Plantation. In 1761 the present name was adopted in honor of William Pitt the elder, England's liberal statesman who foresaw America's great future. In 1790 some of the Lebanon Shakers added their frugal tradition to the growing center. The textile industry was established here in 1804 when Scholfield and Rigby smuggled English looms hither, after a brief sojourn in Byfield (R. 36), and made the first American broad- cloth. The impetus given by the trade restriction of the War of 1812 led them to set up power looms, on which was woven President Madi- son's inaugural suit. The waters of the Housatonic thus commenced their manufacturing labors, and now before reaching the sea they drive 502 wheels to the tune of 45,000 h.p. Today Pittsfield is the home of more than 100 manufacturing es- tablishments, some of which employ from 1000 to 5000 hands. Chief among them is the Pittsfield plant of the General Electric Company, which covers 78 acres. It represents an investment of more than $30,000,000 and employs from 6000 to 7000 with an annual payroll exceeding $4,000,000. Its yearly output, valued at more than $16,000,000, includes 75 per cent of all the electric fans manufactured in this country, and more than half a million electric flatirons have been made here. The Eaton, Crane & Pike Company is the largest of the world's manufacturers of fine stationery, employing forty sales- men and 1000 hands, with a daily output of two carloads. At the Crane "Government Mill" is made the "money paper" in which are imbedded colored silk fibers, used for bank notes and bonds. Since 1879 this company has enjoyed the monopoly of supplying the U.S. Bureau of Engraving with the paper for the 300,000,000 pieces of paper money now issued yearly. The E. D. Jones Company manu- factures machinery for paper and pulp mills which goes to all countries where paper is made. The Pontoosuc Woolen Company, established in 1826, manufactures dress goods, rugs, and blankets. The Russell Manufacturing Company, established in 1837, The Berkshire Woolen & Worsted Company, the Tacpnic Mills, and the Tillotson Manu- facturing Company produce ladies' cloakings, kerseys, and cassimeres. The Tel-Electric Piano Player Company and the Triumph Voting Machine Company have their plants here. R. 13 2. Pittsfield to Springfield. 56.0 m. Via LENOX, LEE, and CHESTER. This section of the route from Albany to Boston traverses the richest portions of Berkshire County. (For continuation R. 13 2. PITTSFIELD TO SPRINGFIELD 387 of the route through the Housatonic valley north of Pittsfield and south of Lenox, see Route 5, p 253.) Leaving the valley of the Housatonic at East Lee, it crosses the eastern Berkshires, reaching a maximum altitude of 1800 feet near West Becket, and follows down the narrow valleys of the Westfield river. On Holmes Road, the old highway to Lenox, are several places of special interest. Holmesdale, the residence of Oliver Wendell Holmes, is just beyond a row of poplars crowning a knoll on the left. It stands on the site of the original home- stead of Jacob Wendell, the early settler. 'The Autocrat of the Breakfast Table' tells us of the "seven blessed summers" passed here on the ancestral acres which stood in his memory "like the seven golden candlesticks in the beatific vision of the holy dreamer." The sturdy pine where the 'Autocrat' loved to rest in the seven summers of his boyhood here, as well as in later years, still stands in the Canoe Meadows near the house. His fondness for trees led him to plant seven hundred according to his own statement. South Mountain, west of Holmesdale, beyond the grounds of the Country Club, is the scene of "Elsie Venner." The view from its northern slope, Snake Hill, is very fine. The direct route to Lenox follows South St., with red mark- ers, passing the grounds of the Country Club. The central portion of the club house was built in 1785 by Henry Van Schaack, postmaster of Albany, whose home it was till 1807. Elkanah Watson, a prominent farmer and merchant, lived here from 1807 to 1816, while he introduced merino sheep into the region and instituted the Berkshire Agricultural Society. After his day the house was named Broad Hall, by Major Melville, uncle of Herman, the South Sea traveler and novel- ist. It later acquired widespread fame as a boarding house, and lodged Longfellow, Hawthorne, Holmes, and other literary folk. In the cellar is a dungeon where runaway slaves traveling on the 'Underground Railway' were hidden. A quarter of a mile beyond, on the same side of the road, is Arrowhead, the home of Herman Melville, the chronicler of South Sea adventure. To the east are the Canoe Meadows of the Housatonic, beloved of the Indians, and above them the bluffs of October Mountain, stocked by the late William C. Whitney with buf- falo, moose, elk, and deer. To the west is the triple crest of Yokun Seat, Osceola, and Lenox Mountain. Through the hills innumerable trails are being blazed and cared for by the Boy Scouts. At the foot of the eastern slope of Yokun Seat is Ferncroft with its beautiful gardens, the home of Thomas Shields Clarke. Southward where the valley opens is Lenox on a saddlebacked ridge. 388 LENOX 6.0 LENOX. Alt 1270 ft. Pop (twp) 3060 (1910), 3242 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1750. Lenox has long been the autumnal resort of fashion, attract- ing the wealthy from Washington, Boston, Philadelphia, Newport, and New York, especially after the close of the Newport season. In recent years the season has been pro- longed, so that it is now to a considerable extent a residential region in which many linger on their great estates into the winter season. About Lenox lies some of the most beautiful country of the Berkshires, now nearly all taken up by estates. The magnificent estates and sumptuous villas exhibit some of the finest achievements in landscape-gardening and country house architecture. These, however, are too thoroughly aris- tocratic to be planned for outward show, and most of them are so secluded within their grounds as to be visible unfortunately only from distant points of view. Usually, the unobtrusive entrances are marked by curt and repellent signs to guard against inconsiderate intrusion, "No admittance except to guests," "Keep out," etc. Lenox as the home of the Sedg- wicks, Fanny Kemble, Beecher, Hawthorne, Mark Hopkins and other intellectuals of the middle nineteenth century is rich in literary association. Among the surrounding hills, lakes, and charming intervales are innumerable lovely walks and drives. The drive through the Bishop woods is celebrated. Before the advent of the automobile, Lenox was the center of a genuine appreciation of good horses. The Hunt and the Show, as well as the Races, were the natural outcome of a love for riding and driving in a country admirably suited to those pastimes. Motoring has almost banished the horse here as elsewhere, although a few still take the horses out on the by- ways and lanes. Life is simpler here than in Newport. The distinctive pastimes are gardening and archery for the older set and those who are bored by the perennial golf and tennis, with bob-sledding over the hills and curling on the ponds for the winter colony that even lingers until the New Year. The Aspinwall, a modern hotel located on the former Aspin- wall Woolsey property of 550 acres, is on the right of Main St. at the northern entrance to the village, which it overlooks from a commanding eminence. The magnificent view from the piazza extends from Grey lock, in the north, westward along the Taconics to Monument Mountain and The Dome in the south. Three miles southwest is Stockbridge Bowl, or Lake Makheenac, out of which rises Bald Head, the site of many 'places,' chief among which is Shadowbrook, the goo-acre Anson Phelps Stokes estate, now owned by Spencer Shotter. Its semi-baronial mansion is the most extensive and elaborate R. 13 2. PITTSFIELD TO SPRINGFIELD 389 country house in New England. Across the Bowl from Bald Head is Rattlesnake Hill; on the knoll this side of it is Allen Winden, the residence of Charles Lanier, president of two railways and director of several others. Adjoining is Elm Court, the typically American summer villa of the late William D. Sloane, which has a splendid view to the south. Beyond the Bowl is the Lily Pond, on the far side of which is Wheat- leigh, the property of Mr. Henry H. Cook; Interlaken, the Bishop place with noted woods, is between the ponds and nearer Rattlesnake Hill. Away to the southeast is Laurel Lake, on the western border of which is The Mount, built by Mrs. Edith Wharton, who lived there for several years, in reproduction of Beton, the country seat of Lord Brownlow. North of The Mount, on Kemble St., is The Perch, the home of Fanny Kemble, overlooking Laurel Lake; opposite are Mr. Giraud Foster's villa, Bellefontaine, a French Renaissance mansion, and Cort- landt Field Bishop's Maplehurst. South of the Lake is Erskine Park, the estate of the late George Westinghouse, now the property of Mrs. Alfred Vanderbilt. It extends into Lee township, with miles of walks and drives of powdered white marble, and an artificial lake with several fountains. On the northeastern shore are the Goelet and Sargent places; above them on Beecher Hill is Wyndhurst, the late John Sloane's battlemented Tudor mansion, on the site of Henry Ward Beecher's home of 1853. Its landscape setting is largely the design of Charles Eliot and the elder Olmsted. Blantyre, now the residence of Robert W. Paterson, stands next to Wyndhurst. Blantyre contains a notable col- lection of paintings. Beneath the bluff, in the middle distance to the west, are the links of the Lenox Golf Club with W. A. Slater's place, Home Farm, and the late John E. Parsons' Stoneover nearby. Half- way down the hill is the late Morris K. Jesup's Belvoir Terrace, and Under Ledge, the Joseph W. Burden country home. Ventfort Hall, the Elizabethan mansion of Mr. George H. Morgan, and Pine Croft, the summer residence of F. A. Scher- merhorn, lie eastward, but almost in the heart of the village, close to the campanile of Trinity Church. The Poplars was Copr. Detroit Pub. Co. THE MEETING HOUSE 390 LENOX for one season occupied by the former Austrian ambassador, Constantine Dumba. The old Lenox meeting house (1805) on the hilltop stands with its stately white tower among the foliage, commanding an extended view. The churchyard's slate tombstones with quaintly curving cherubim bear characteristic oldtime senti- ments and warnings, worthy of pause to read. Dr. Shepard, its first minister, lies beneath the well-chosen text, "Remember the words which I spoke unto you while I was yet with you." The clock in the church was given by Fanny Kemble from the proceeds of a single night's reading. Opposite Cliffwood St. is the handsome Georgian home of Lenox Academy, dating from 1803, formerly a famous clas- sical school, and now a private school for small children. Further down the hill is Sedgwick Hall, founded in 1797, once the Court House and now the Public Library. Next door is the Curtis House, a tavern of coaching days, lately remodeled. Opposite is the Town Hall, and in Monument Square is a memorial to Major-general John Paterson, jurist and soldier of the Revolution. Opposite Trinity Church, which contains a memorial window to President Chester A. Arthur, on Kemble St., formerly stood the modest house among the pines where Catharine Sedgwick, the first of American women novelists, and her brother Charles entertained "a jungle of literary lions," including Lowell, Holmes, Sumner, Channing, and Bryant, as well as their neighbors, the Fields, Hawthorne, Beecher, and Fanny Kemble. Charlotte Cushman spent her last summer in a cottage on West St., no longer standing. Beyond, over- looking the Stockbridge Bowl is Highwood, the oldest of the fashionable estates, where Jenny Lind, 'the Swedish Night- ingale,' was married; and below, on Hawthorne Road, is the site of "the little red house" where Hawthorne wrote "The House of the Seven Gables" and "The Wonder Book" during his eighteen months' sojourn here. The "Shadow Brook" of the latter volume flows nearby in the great estate named after it. West of Lenox Mountain in the township of Richmond are some unique boulder trains which cross from Fry's Hill and Perry Peak in the Taconics over Merriman's Mount almost to the Stockbridge Bowl; these and the crinoids and other fossils further west, in Canaan, N.Y., are the delight of geologists, while literary people drive through to Canaan to visit Queechy, the pretty lake where Susan Warner lived and wrote "Queechy" and "The Wide, Wide World," second only to "Uncle Tom's Cabin," in the estimate of fifty years ago. Lenox was settled in 1750 and named Richmond and then Lenox in honor of Sir Charles Lenox, third Duke of Richmond, a friend of the R. 13 2. PITTSFIELD TO SPRINGFIELD 391 Colonies in the Revolutionary days. The land along Walker St. was then the property of Jonathan Edwards, the theologian, who lived at Stockbridge. It soon became the shire town, a wellspring of patriot- ism in the Revolution, and was the country seat and business center until 1868, when the court was moved to Pittsfield. Its industries included tanneries, glass works, and an iron foundry and mine, whose underground galleries underlie a part of Lenox Furnace. The lit- erary era began in 1821 with the advent of Catharine Sedgwick. The most picturesque figure in that sedate period was Fanny Kemble, the actress and Shakespearian reader, niece of the great Mrs. Siddons and grandmother of Owen VVister. She shocked the neighborhood by her vivacious unconventionality, dashing through the lanes astride of her big black horse, with 'Julian the Apostate,' as she nicknamed Haw- thorne's son, on the pommel. Kemble Street, named in her honor, is proof of the respect and affection her generous nature inspired. In those days, before wealth had adorned the hills, Lenox was some- times criticised; even Catharine Sedgwick at first described it as "A bare and ugly little village, dismally bleak and uncouth." Hawthorne bursts out: "This is a horrible, horrible, most hor-ri-ble climate, one knows not for ten minutes together, whether he is too cool or too warm, but he is always the one or the other, and the constant result is a miserable disturbance of the system. I detest it! I detest it!! I detest it!!! I hate Berkshire with my whole soul and would joyfully see its mountains laid flat." Matthew Arnold, the eminent English critic, condemned the extremes of heat and cold, damned the American elm with faint praise, and at last overcame his British conservatism, with "I see at last what an American autumn which they praise so is, and it deserves the praise given it. ... We were perpetually stopping the carriage in the woods through which we drove, the flowers were so attractive. You have no notion how beautiful the asters are." However, Lenox was so appreciated by the literary set as to draw thither enough wealth to set up a few 'places' such as were soon to be the vogue. The removal of the court house to Pittsfield in 1868, be- moaned for the moment as a financial calamity, marks the beginning of the social boom. Land fetched fancy prices for the next twenty years, often from $1000 to $3500 an acre, while the site of Trinity Church, parish house and rectory, about half an acre, cost in all, $19,900! Most of the old Lenox families sold their farms and migrated; but the real worth of the fertile valley is still proved by one or two tracts of tillage that produce their forty bushels of seed wheat per acre, selling for $2.50 a bushel. Yet the caprice of fashion is mainly responsible for the fact that Berkshire land varies from $20,000 to $1.00 an acre. From Lenox, a splendid avenue by Laurel Lake follows red markers direct to Lee. Note. A detour by way of Stockbridge may be made: Three roads from Lenox lead thither: Kemble St., past Trinity Church, The Perch, and the Foster place, round the base of the knoll, indicated by blue markers: the old highway, down 'Court -house Hill' and over the knoll, past the Lanier, Sloane, and Bishop places; and the longer route by way of West St. and the Hawthorne Road by the Stockbridge Bowl past the Cooke place to Prospect Hill, from which there is a splendid view of Stockbridge and the meandering river in the plain below; close at hand is Naumkeag, the Hon. Joseph H. Choate's estate. Beyond the village are the abrupt heights 392 LENOX EAST LEE of Bear, Monument, and Tom Ball Mountains, from east to west, "Monument Mountain," as Hawthorne said, "looking like a headless sphinx wrapped in a Persian shawl, when clad in the rich and diversified autumnal foliage of its woods." For Stockbridge see Route 5 (p 249). 10.5 LEE. Alt 950 ft. Pop (twp) 4106 (1910), 4481 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1760. Mfg. paper, marble, lime, wire cloth, paper-making machinery. Lee is a paper-making town on the Housatonic, which at this point is a rapid and beautiful stream and affords valuable waterpower, as do the several tributaries which here join it from the hills, making the town a center of industry. The first paper mill was erected here in 1806, and until 1850 Lee was the principal paper center in this region and had twenty- two mills. Here, at the Columbia Mill of the Smith Paper Company, paper was first made from wood pulp, in 1867. Its inexhaustible marble quarries afford a fine, granular, dolomite marble, of two varieties white and white mottled with gray, from which have been constructed the Philadelphia City Hall, St. Patrick's Cathedral, New York, the wings of the National Capitol, and more than 600,000 soldiers' head- stones which have been supplied to the Government. The Lee Public Library is built of the mottled marble. The old Con- gregational Church has a beautiful slender spire 185 feet high, the commanding architectural feature of the town, and justly an object of admiration. The first settler in Lee was Isaac Davis who in 1760 built a house on Hop Brook. The town was incorporated in 1777. It was named in honor of General Charles Lee, an Englishman who served in the English and the Russian armies, emigrating to Virginia in 1773, and forthwith became so ardent a Whig that he was appointed by Congress second in command of the Continental Army. The hill town of Washington, to the north, incorporated several months earlier, was named for the Commander-in-chief, Lee for the second in rank. In the northeastern part of the township was once a village, Dodge- town, which was deserted nearly a century ago. Hardly a trace of habitation is left, but unlike Goldsmith's deserted" village, "Sweet Auburn! loveliest village of the plain," it was on the bleak mountain- side and was a hamlet of rude, pioneer dwellings. Erskine Park, the Westinghouse estate south of Laurel Lake, lies largely in the township of Lee, as does Highcourt, the country place of William B. Osgood of New York. The latter occupies the site of the famous stock farm of the late Elizur Smith. At Pleasure Park in September the annual Hunt Races are a gala event that attracts residents from all the Berkshires. Fern Cliff, east of the village, is a bold elevation of quartz and gneiss; from the well- wooded summit there is a fine view of the Lenox and Stockbridge country and the Tyringham valley. On the eastern side of Fern Cliff is Peter's Cave, R. 13 ' 2. PITTSFIELD TO SPRINGFIELD 393 where Peter Wilcox, Jr., implicated in Shays' Rebellion and sentenced to death, was secreted for a time after his escape, disguised as a woman, from the Great Barrington Jail. October Mountain, northeast of the town, is the name given to the western escarpment of the eastern highland. Here is Harry Payne Whitney's celebrated i4,ooo-acre game reserva- tion which he stocked with buffalo, elk, and deer. From a point a mile north of Lee, a road leads up Washington Brook into the heart of the game reservation to the dome-like summit where Mr. Whitney built his lodge. The route follows red markers along the Housatonic. 13.0 EAST LEE. Alt 1000 ft. (Part of Lee twp ) Settled 1773. At the Perry place, the second house on the right beyond the bridge east of the hotel, about 250 of Shays' rebellious adher- ents (p 129) gathered in 1787 and, to overawe the State force sent against them, mounted the yarn-beam of Mother Perry's loom on wheels, from which counterfeit cannon the attacking force is said to have fled. The fourth house east of the hotel was the residence of W. K. Gates, whose son Charles went to the pasture with the cows one morning in May, 1861, and did not return until an evening in 1864 when he brought the cows back from pasture after he had served more than three years with the Tenth Massachusetts regiment. The route with red markers, from here to the Becket line, about 3 miles east, follows Cape St., so named because the region was settled during the Revolution by people from Cape Cod who were forced to migrate because the British Navy had interrupted their seafaring occupation. Note. South of East Lee is "The hidden dale of Tyring- ham" with its pretty village four miles up Hop Brook. The Tyringham road, beside the brook, passes Four Brooks, the home of- Richard Watson Gilder, the poet and editor of the "Century." Ex-president Cleveland, Mark Twain, John Burroughs, Thomas Bailey Aldrich, Hamilton Wright Mabie, Jacob Riis, Okakura Kakuzo, and a host of other writers have either lived or visited in the valley between the hills. The upper road on the western slope from South Lee passes the mill pond and the decaying homes of the Shaker colony of Fernside that flourished here aforetime. The earliest settlement here was in 1739. The first route from Springfield westward to Sheffield and Great Barrington led through this valley. Lord Howe on his way to Ticonderoga, where he lost his life, perhaps suggested the name Tyringham, which was that of his estate in England. The village of Tyringham still continues the rake-making industry of Shaker days. Beyond the village the valley widens 394 EAST LEE WESTFIELD into upland meadows where the Indians initiated the settlers into the mysteries of maple-sugar making. To the southwest is the steep road to Monterey, once a stopping place on the New England Trail from Albany to Boston, but now an almost forgotten hamlet, with abandoned villages in its hills. Beyond the village of West Becket the broad State Road encircles the hill over which Jacob's Ladder, the old road, used to climb. The total rise from East Lee to the summit of Jacob's Ladder (1700 ft) is about 700 feet. The summit, marked by a monument, commands an extended view. Cross- ing the watershed between the Housatonic and the Connecti- cut, the highway, marked with red, descends the valley of Walker Brook, crossing the line between Berkshire and Hamp- den Counties, and meets a branch of the Westfield river at 28.0 CHESTER. Alt 585 ft. Pop (twp) 1377 (1910), 1344 (1915). Hampden Co. Settled 1762. Mfg. paper, granite, emery, and corundum. The deposits of corundum, a hard mineral related to the sapphire and other precious stones, and the abundant water- power, furnish this mountain village with a substantial reason for existence. Abrasives and grinding wheels are manufactured by the Springfield Grinding, The Jackson Mills Emery, the Abrasive Mining and Manufacturing, and the Hamilton and Corundum Companies. Dairy and farm products are brought here for shipment from the rich valleys of the hinterland. The road winds doWn the gorge of the Westfield river to 35.0 HVNTINGTON. Alt 373 ft. Pop (twp) 1473 (1910), 1427 (1915). Hampshire Co. Settled 1760. Huntington, formerly Norwich, was renamed in 1855 in honor of Charles P. Huntington. It is a paper-mill village. The trolley line management with an eye to mutual benefits has taken an active part in rural development here. The farmers had always raised apples in the old, happy-go-lucky fashion. The trolley management sent an expert to give the farmers some simple instructions in harvesting and in improv- ing their trees, and supplied barrels at cost. The first year 500 barrels of apples were taken out of that valley. The next year the number had increased to 1500. The third year there were 3000, a gain of 600 per cent in two years. Next they appealed to President Butterfield of the Amherst Agricultural College, and with his cooperation the first "Better Farming" trolley special in the country was arranged. Each of its four large cars was devoted to instructive exhibits for the demon- stration of better farming possibilities. Lectures by profes- sors from the College of Agriculture were given at various villages along the route. Another feature was the establish- R. 13 2. PITTSFIELD TO SPRINGFIELD 395 ment of three model farms of ten acres each at suitable points. In this village the East and West Branches join to form the Westfield river. Turtle Bend Mountain, an isolated dome, rises from the center of the valley just above the hamlet of 39.0 RUSSELL. Alt 273 ft. Pop (twp) 965 (1910), 1104 (1915). Hampden Co. This little village was named for the Russell family who were prominent in the business interests of the vicinity. As the river emerges from the hills, it supplies power for the Strathmore Paper mills at Woronoco (41.5), a village in Westfield township, and flows over the upper levels of the Connecticut valley to 47.5 WESTFIELD. Alt 150 ft. Pop (twp) 16,044 (1910), 18,411 (1915). Hampden Co. Settled 1660. Indian name Woronoak. Mfg. whips, paper, thread, musical instruments, caskets, machinery, and bicycles; tobacco. Westfield lies in the midst of the broad alluvial valley known as the Woronoco, cut off from the center of the Connecticut valley by the trap ridges of the Holyoke range and Proven Mountain. The Westfield river, here debouching from the Berkshire Highlands, offers the chief avenue through them to the Housatonic valley and the Hudson. A fur-trading post as early as 1640, it later became an im- portant station on the road to Albany and the Hudson. Today, Westfield is an important industrial town and makes 95 per cent of the world's whips, employing uoo hands, with an annual output of 20,000,000, which are shipped to all parts of the world. Its sobriquet 'The Whip City' has been replaced by 'The Pure Food Town,' due to the crusade against adul- terated foods by the Westfield Board of Health under the leadership of 'The Little Gray Man,' Lewis B. Allyn. The movement began in 1904 when Professor Allyn of the State Normal School commenced to analyze foods for certain grocers. In cooperation with the Board of Health, the work rapidly increased in extent and importance, and was taken up throughout the country. Many firms have been roused to take legal proceedings, but more still have asked for help and advice. While Professor Allyn's townsmen have paid $1800 damage adjudged against him in the courts, he has also stood by them and refused offers of large salaries. He would rather continue to be the livest, toughest whip that Westfield has ever produced. Lists of pure foods are issued by the Board of Health, grocers are offered cash prizes amounting to $5000 in gold for pure food window displays, and the McClure publications have taken up the movement and made 'big stories.' In Park Square, at the foot of Russell Mountain, stands the Washington Tavern, built about 1750, which contains several interesting relics of olden days, including some fox-hunting wall paper, an excellent example of old-style decoration. The 3Q6 WESTFIELD SPRINGFIELD Fowler Tavern, a short distance north of Main St. near the bridge over Little River, is the inn where General Burgoyne is reputed to have stayed overnight while on the way to Boston as a prisoner of war after his surrender at Saratoga, Oct. 17, 1777. The Normal School is the second oldest in America and maintains the traditions of scholarship handed down by the Westfield Academy, founded in 1800. The region about here was early a favorite one for trappers and there are records as early as 1641 that persons from Connecticut had wrongly set up a trading post at "Woronock," but it was twenty years later before a permanent settlement was made. At first it was called Streamfield because of its situation between the Westfield and Little rivers. Later the present name was adopted because it was due west from Boston and the westernmost settlement of the colony. A fron- tier town with no settlement between it and the Hudson river to the west and Canada on the north, it was necessarily strongly fortified with a palisade two miles in circuit and a log fort within. At the outbreak of King Philip's War, the General Court in Boston ordered the abandonment of Westfield and some other frontier settlements, but the courage of the Westfield settlers was such that they prepared to remain to protect their homes. No organized attack was made, but many of the settlers were killed by sniping Indians in hiding. Dur- ing the Revolution guns were made for the army in a deep glen at the foot of Mt. Tekoa, where foundations may yet be seen. Among the virile early settlers was one Falley, originally Faille, who had been kidnapped from his home in Guernsey and taken to Nova Scotia. His son Richard at the age of twelve enlisted in the army and at the age of sixteen was captured by the Indians and taken to Montreal. Ransomed by a lady who gave sixteen gallons of rum for his release, he returned to Westfield. He took part in the Battle of Bunker Hill together with his fourteen-year-old son, Frederick. Major-general William Shepard of Westfield, who was prominent in the suppression of Shays' Rebellion in 1787 (p 129), was born in a house which stood nearly opposite the school house on Franklin St. In addition to the whip industry, the H. B. Smith Company manu- factures steam boilers and radiators; Crane Brothers make ledger paper; twenty cigar factories turn out 15,000,000 smokes a year. From Westfield the road follows the pioneer trail between Springfield and Albany that led westward over the hills through Monterey and Great Barrington. The ridge of trap rock that runs up the Connecticut from New Haven (p 24) is cut by the Westfield river, and the highway and the railroad squeeze through on either bank. To the south on the eastern side of the ridge is the village of Feeding Hills, preserving the old name given to this terrace by the settlers. The route continues through West Springfield (p 309), north of the paper-making suburb of Mittineague, where are the mills of the Strathmore, Worthy, Agawam, and Southworth companies, and meets Route 10. Crossing the Connecticut river, it enters 56.0 SPRINGFIELD (R. 1, p 121). From Springfield follow Route i to BOSTON (151.0). R. 14. PITTSFIELD to NORTHAMPTON. 44.5 m. Via DALTON, CUMMINGTON, and WILLIAMSBURG. This is a State Road nearly all the way, recently rebuilt and improved by the State Highway Commission. The route is marked beyond Dalton by yellow bands on poles at all doubt- ful points. From the Park, Pittsfield, follow North St. with trolley, turning at hospital right, into Tyler St., with blue markers. In Coltsville, on the way to Dalton, are the Crane Mills where by secret processes the paper is made for the bills and bank notes of the United States and many foreign countries. The Cranes have continued to hold this monopoly for many years with great profit. Zenas Crane, a benefactor of Pitts- field, founded this plant, the second in the land, in 1799, call- ing on his patriotic neighbors to support the infant industry in the following notice: "Americans: Encourage your own manufactories and they will improve. Ladies save your Rags, as the Subscribers have it in contemplation to erect a Paper mill in Dalton, the ensuing spring." 5.5 DALTON. Alt 1188 ft. Pop (twp) 3568 (1910), 3859 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1755. Mfg. paper and wood pulp, boxes, woolen and worsted goods. Dalton, on the east branch of the Housatonic, has valuable waterpower, as was first recognized by Zenas Crane. Today mills are distributed along the whole course of the stream. To the north of Dalton is The Gulf or 'Wizard's Glen,' a wild ravine with an uncanny echo about which linger Indian legends. The town, once known as "Ashuelot Equivalent," was granted to Oliver Partridge and others of Hatfield in lieu of a township in New Hampshire, supposed by early surveyors to be in Massachusetts. It was named for the Hon. Tristram Dalton, Speaker in the House of Representatives (1784), and for a long time was called Dale-Town. Note. From Dalton, a State Road leads southward through Hinsdale to Peru (2220 ft), the highest town in the State. Its church steeple is anchored by cable, and sheds the rain into the Hudson or the Connecticut as it chances to fall on the east or west side of the roof. From Hinsdale a new State Road con- tinues south through Washington and Becket, joining Route 13. The route follows the yellow markers and gradually ascends to an altitude of 2000 feet before coming into Windsor. Be- tween Dalton and Windsor are the Waconah Falls, the grand- est in the State, dropping 80 feet over a gray marble cliff. Two miles beyond Dalton, on Mt. Pleasant in West Windsor, is the country home of Ex-senator W. Murray Crane, whilom Governor of Massachusetts, versed not only in the secret lore of paper-making, but in that of statecraft. (397) 398 WINDSOR BUCKLAND 12.5 WINDSOR. Alt 2000 ft. Pop (twp) 404 (1910), 375 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1762. Indian name Ouschauka- maug. The settlers originally called it Gageborough, but its present name was adopted in 1778. The route follows the State Road down the narrow upper valley of the Westfield river through West Cummington. On either side the hills rise 700 feet above the road. 24.5 CUMMINGTON. Alt 1100 ft. Pop (twp) 637 (1910), 658 (1915). Hampshire Co. Settled 1770. Cummington, the birthplace of the poet Bryant, is a little hamlet among the tumbled hills. Far from a railroad, it has been left behind in the advance of commerce and transporta- tion and is but little changed since the poet's boyhood; except, perhaps, that it has given so generously of its best sons and daughters to the outer world that the quality of those who remain has deteriorated. The brooks, the hills, the woods are still as when the poet made acquaintance with nature "through her visible forms." This is the scene of the "Forest Hymn," with the wellknown opening line, "The groves were God's first temples," and the brook which inspired "The Rivulet " still runs through the Bryant farm. The town library is the gift of Bryant. On the cattle show grounds in the fall is held an oldtime country fair. Fayette Shaw, a pioneer in the organization of the tanning industry, was born here in 1824 and learned the trade at his father's tannery before he opened immense Maine plants. The route continues through Swift River (27.0), a hamlet named from the tributary which comes in from the north. The route leaves the valley of the Westfield river, which here turns southward, and, following the yellow markers, ascends through Lithia (28.5) to Goshen. Note. From Lithia, a recently constructed State Road turns north to 8.0 ASHFIELD. Alt 1250 ft. Pop (twp) 959 (1910), 994 (1915). Franklin Co. Settled 1745. Ashfield is a hill town, rich in charming views and the lit- erary association of the capable men it has sent forth into the world and of others who have been attracted to it by its sum- mer beauty. The old Sanderson Academy has fitted a host of boys and girls for college, many of whom have become prominent in the great outside world. Perhaps its most fa- mous sons are G. Stanley Hall, psychologist and President of Clark University, and Alvan E. Clark (b. 1804), originally a portrait painter, who became astronomer and finally the most famous of telescope makers. Charles Eliot Norton and R. 14. PITTSFIELD TO NORTHAMPTON 399 George William Curtis, two of the most accomplished and cultivated Americans of their time, made Ashfield their sum- mer home and a mecca for their friends. Matthew Arnold journeyed up to this hill town to share their companionship. Lowell, on his return from England, was here greeted at one of the now famous annual dinners held in Sanderson Academy. At the isoth anniversary, in 1915, of the incorporation of the town, Dr. G. Stanley Hall in his address said: "I was born of the sturdy old Puritan, first-growth stock, and spent my childhood and youth in the Ashfield of half a century or more ago. I learned to hoe, mow, chop, plow, plant, sow, milk, fodder cattle, clean stalls, dig, make fences and stone walls, shovel snow, mend roads, break in steers and colts, care for young pigs, lambs, calves, make maple sugar, soap out of the lye, wood ashes, and fat; and evenings my father taught me how to make brooms, and my mother and aunts how to braid palm-leaf hats, knit stockings and shag mit- tens, and I was often called on to make fires, wash dishes, and even to cook a little, although this latter was often severely criticised by those who had to partake of my viands. Now we call these things agri- culture, domestic art, or occupations, but then we called it work. I then belonged to what is now designated as the toiling masses; that is, I was simply a farmer's boy; and never was there more ideal en- vironment for boys to grow up in than the old New England farm of those happy days. "Life here, then, was by no means all a grind, for there was abun- dant recreation. There was much fishing, and fish were then plenty, with trapping and hunting; there were games galore, out of doors and within, for summer and winter. There were spelling and singing schools, and weekly debates in the winter evenings in the school-houses, and occasional dances at private houses, bad as these and surrepti- tious games of old sledge and euchre were. There was the old library in the Sanderson tannery, the tedious, solemn Sunday with its two church services, between which we ate home-made cookies with car- away seeds, and the yet more tedious Sunday-school, in which I did the most unnatural and monstrous thing of learning, for a prize, the whole of the New England catechism, of which I then understood and now remember nothing save that the chief end of man was 'to glorify God and enjoy him forever,' whatever that might mean; and there was the tremendous experience of moving the old yellow church from the flat to its present position on the plain." From Ashfield, a State Road continues north down the valley of Clesson Brook through 13.0 BVCKLAND. Alt 700 ft. Pop (twp) 1573 (1910), 1572 (1915). Franklin Co. Inc. 1779. This town was once known as ' Notown ' and is the birthplace of Mary Lyon (b 1797), the founder of Mount Holyoke. Fork right (14.5), under R.R., curving right along the Deer- field river and joining Route 15 to Shelburne Falls. Note. From Ashfield the route to the right of the stone watering trough at the end of the street leads through South Ashfield (1.5) and Conway (7.5) to Deerfield (15.0), on Route 10 (P3i?)- From Lithia the yellow-marked route leads to 400 GOSH EN NORTHAMPTON 31.0 GOSHEN. Alt 1440 ft. Pop (twp) 279 (1910), 284 (1915). Hampshire Co. Inc. 1781. This biblical old Hebrew name means "approaching." Quarries here in the Goshen schist, the prevailing rock of the region, formerly furnished flagstones, used in Northampton and the valley towns. The State Road rapidly descends the narrow valley of Mill River to 36.5 WILLIAMSBURG. Alt 589 ft. Pop (twp) 2132 (1910), 2118 (1915). Hampshire Co. Inc. 1771. Mfg. brooms, but- tons, cutlery, and hardware. The waterpower here is utilized for manufacturing. The route passes through Haydenville (38.5) and on to Leeds, a part of the city of Northampton where are several of the Corticelli silk mills. The road having descended nearly 1200 feet in the past ten miles, now debouches on the great Florence plain, extending north into Hatfield and south to Loudville. This is the delta of the Mill river, its great extent formed at the close of the glacial period. All this portion of the Connecticut valley was then occupied by a lake in which were deposited the laminated clays of this region, which have a thickness of 160 feet. These clays, interesting geologically, are somewhat used for brick- making. The layers or laminations are about two fifths of an inch thick, the lower portion of the finest clay grading into very fine sandy clay in the upper part. The lower portion was deposited in winter when the lake was frozen over; the upper, in summer, during the floods from the melting ice. At Loudville, seven miles south, is an old lead mine worked during the Revolution and again during the Civil War. The ore carries silver, zinc, and copper, and many rare minerals have been found here. 41.5 FLORENCE. Alt 274 ft. Mfg. silk, toothbrushes, burial caskets, and hydrants. This is a manufacturing suburb of Northampton. The silk industry was started here about seventy-five years ago due to the belief that mulberry trees and silkworms could be success- fully grown. The raising of silkworms proved a failure, but the silk mills have prospered. The Corticelli Silk Mills be- longing to the Nonotuck Silk Company are among the largest silk thread works in the world, employing 500 hands. Here is the home of the Prophylactic Tooth Brush, a product of the Florence Manufacturing Company. This concern started fifty years ago as makers of composition buttons and later devel- oped the toothbrush which they have made famous. 44.5 NORTHAMPTON (R. 10, p 312). R. 15. ALBANY to BOSTON. 197.5 m. Via WILLIAMSTOWN, GREENFIELD, and FITCHBURG. This route, the northern road across Massachusetts, follows for the most part the valleys of three rivers, the Hoosic, the Deerfield, and Millers rivers, crossing the Taconic range by the Pownal Pass and the Hoosac by the Mohawk Trail. It is a natural thoroughfare, originally an Indian trail, only recently made practicable for automobiles by the construction of the Mohawk Trail section of State Road. Its attractions are many, the historic ground of the Hoosic valley, the Williamstown region of the Berkshires, the scenic attractions, almost unparalleled in New England, of the Hoosac range, with the remarkable gorges of the Deerfield and Millers rivers, reaching a climax in historic and literary interests in Concord and Lexington. The route through Massachusetts is a Trunk Line State High- way marked throughout its course by red bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. Note. The shortest route to Williamstown, over excellent macadam finished 1915, is rather less interesting. It leads through Troy (6.5), turning up Hoosick St., from Fifth Ave., and thence passing through Center Brunswick (11.5), bear- ing left a mile beyond, and continuing through Raymertown (17.5). Crossing the Tomhannock Reservoir (17.8), it leads through Pittstown (20.5), Boytonville (23.0), Potter Hill (26.0), and North Petersburg (31.5), to Pownal (39.0), where it joins the main route (p 405). Other routes are as follows: through Troy, The Alps, Dun- ham's Hollow, Stephentown, Hancock, and South Williams- town (48.5), joining Route 5, note (p 256); or via Grafton, Petersburg, and North Petersburg (37.5), joining the first route given in this note. R. 15 1. Albany to Williamstown. 57.0m. Via TROY, SCHAGHTICOKE, and POWNAL. The route leads through Troy, and thence strikes across rolling country on the line of the International Highway pro- jected between New York and Montreal. At Schaghticoke the route turns eastward up the Hoosic river valley past a succession of old Dutch settlements and through the North Pownal pass of the Taconic Mountains to Williamstown. The route leaves Albany by Broadway, paralleling the Erie Canal, beyond which is the Hudson. The road crosses the ( 4 oi) 402 TROY EAGLE BRIDGE canal in the city of Watervliet, a manufacturing suburb of Troy, in which is located the U.S. Arsenal for the manufacture of heavy guns. Crossing the Hudson by the bridge at the foot of igth St., the route enters 6.5 TROY. Alt 27 ft. Pop 76,813 (1910), 75,488 (1915); of which one fifth is foreign-born. County-seat of Rensselaer Co. Settled 1659. Mjg. collars, cuffs, shirts, railroad cars, ma- chinery and other iron and steel products, mathematical instruments, brushes, and knit goods. Troy makes nine tenths of America's collars and cuffs. In addition to its manufacturing activity, it is important as a railroad junction, the head of Hudson River steamboat navi- gation, and the eastern terminus of the Barge Canals from the west and the north. The city is also the home of Rensse- laer Polytechnic Institute, the Emma Willard School, and other academic institutions. The residential section is on the heights overlooking the business and factory belt on the shore. The Music Hall and the Public Library are two of the prin- cipal public buildings. Near the latter on Second St., at the site of her first school buildings, is a statue of Emma Willard, the pioneer in women's education, who founded the Emma Willard School here in 1821. The Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, the oldest engineering school in America, was estab- lished by Stephen Van Rensselaer in 1824 and has always held a high rank. Mrs. Russell Sage has presented $1,000,000 to the Willard School and an equal sum to the Institute, and has founded the Russell Sage School of Practical Art. Troy was one of the patroon farms under the early Dutch rule and until the Revolution was only a ferry station. Beef contracts for the army in the War of 1812 brought money into Trojan pockets and the opening of the Erie Canal in 1825 increased the city's prominence. Iron works were started in 1830 and in the Civil War contracts were placed here for munitions, including the armor and some of the machin- ery for the "Monitor." The waterpower of Poesten Kill and Wy- nant's Kill, which rush down from the heights, increases Troy's manu- facturing facilities. The most notable plant is that of the Cluett- Peabody Company, the largest shirt and collar factory in the world. Leaving Troy by Fifth Avenue, the route passes Rensselaer Park, Oakwood Cemetery, and the Lansingburgh district, at the end of which (10.5) by the stone water trough at the cross- roads it forks right, uphill and under R.R. The road now follows the route proposed for the International Highway be- tween New York and Montreal. The country is a rich farm land with numerous brooklets flowing from the lower terraces of the valley down to the Hudson. To the right are the irregular slopes of Nut, Ra- finesque (1197 ft), and Rice Mountains (1925 ft), and the ridge of the Taconics on the eastern sky line. R. 15 I. ALBANY TO WILLIAMSTOWN 403 The excellent macadam road leads through the wayside vil- lages of Speigletown (13.0), Grant Hollow (15.0), and Melrose (16.0), and then, crossing R.R. and a brook, ascends a gradual slope. After crossing the water-worn channel of Tomhannock Creek the road climbs over Schaghticoke Hill, overlooking the Troy Reservoir and descends to the Hoosic river, where it turns sharply to the right, running up the south bank of the stream through the outskirts of 20.0 SCHAGHTICOKE. Alt 284 ft. Pop 765 (1910), 794 (1915). Rensselaer Co. Settled 1709. Indian name, "Mingling waters." Mfg. woolens, twine, and gunpowder. The manufacturing village of Schaghticoke is situated on the north bank of the Hoosic at Harts Falls. It still bears evidence of its Dutch origin, but for a century past has been an industrial community with textile and powder mills. The river drops 160 feet in less than two miles. At the Big Eddy, below the bridge, a dam furnishes power for a hydro- electric plant, beyond which the river rushes through a gorge 200 feet deep, with a fall of 100 feet, and a width of but 12 feet at Hell Gate. The Knickerbocker mansion, often visited by Washington Irving, stands by the road three miles below the village near the confluence of Tomhannock Creek and the Hoosic river. The Witenagemot Oak, a magnificent tree in the fields close by, was planted by Governor Andros and the Indian chiefs of the Witenagemot, or Council of the Wise, in token of peace. The route leads northward through Valley Falls (22.5), a village identified with Schaghticoke in its industries and char- acter, and there joins the river once more. From this point the road continues up the valley all the way to Williamstown. The shaly soil is rich in ochers, used by the paint mills at Graf ton ten miles to the south. Seedsmen find the soil well adapted for their industry, and rye is one of the best local crops. Passing through Johnsonville (25.5), a village on the south bank of the river, the route winds beside the stream to 32.5 EAGLE BRIDGE. Alt 390 ft. Rensselaer Co. Settled 1724. This quaint little settlement lies at the junction of Owl Kill with the Hoosic, in the midst of an attractive rolling country. Note. The left fork leads to Cambridge, N.Y., and Route 43 to Manchester, Vt. The road crosses the river and curves southward along the meadows through the hamlet of North Hoosick (36.0). (Note the spellings as adopted by the U.S. Geological Survey, Hoosic River, Hoosac Mountains, Hoosick Falls. The term is Indian, meaning "rocky mountain stream.") 404 EAGLE BRIDGE POWNAL Note. The lefthand road leads to Bennington up the val- ley of the Walloomsac river past Bennington Battlefield (p 257). The positions of the opposing forces and the sites of the prin- cipal engagements are marked with stones and tablets. The main route turns right, crossing the intervale at the union of the Walloomsac and Hoosic valleys, and enters 38.5 HOOSICK FALLS. Alt 450 ft. Pop 5532 (1910), 5406 (1915). Rensselaer Co. Settled 1688. Mfg. harvesting machinery, woolens, shirts, and iron hardware. The Hoosic river here drops through a rocky winding gorge, furnishing power that has made the town a manufacturing center ever since 1784. Walter A. Wood's mowing machine, invented here in 1845-48 and combined with other patents, has received a number of gold medals. Wood was heralded as ' A Benefactor to Humanity ' and today his machines are in use the world over. Hawkeye, the hero of Cooper's "Leather-stocking Tales," whose real name was Nathaniel Bumppo-Schipman, here met Chingachgook and his son Uncas, whose lives are followed with comparative exactitude in "The Last of the Mohicans," and here the leather-stockinged scout died in 1809. Leaving Hoosick Falls the route leads over the hills beside the river and above R.R. into the hamlet of Hoosick (42.0). The quaint Gothic hall of the Tibbits family, lords of the manor this hundred and sixteen years, overlooks the parklike mead- ows. Tibbits' Hoosac School for Boys is in the charge of the Rev. Edward Tibbits, who also holds the living of All Saints' Chapel. The chapel and its sweet-toned bells, one of which is almost six hundred years old, are the gift of his grandfather, George Mortimer Tibbits. The latter traveled abroad col- lecting art treasures and an extensive library in addition to Durham cattle and the largest flock of Saxony sheep in the country. This was in the days when Hoosick was a wool center, grazing 56,000 sheep in her generous pastures. Two miles beyond Hoosick the road passes Petersburg Junc- tion R.R. Station on the site of the manor of Barnabas Brodt, built in 1736. Opposite in the fork was Dutch Hooesac, a bustling little trading post burned by the French on the Fort Massachusetts raid of August, 1746. Captivity Mountain, on the left, is named after Captivity Smead, born here as the prisoners were being taken from the fort to Quebec. After crossing the stream the route turns to the left at the crossroads. Here at the confluence of the Hoosic and Little Hoosic rivers the road enters the Taconic Mountains, a shat- tered remnant of marble and limestone capped with schist, R. 15 I. ALBANY TO WILLIAMSTOWN 405 extending along the New England borders for 200 miles. They are distinct from the Green Mountains and the Berkshires in that they contain no quartzite, granite, or iron and have no evergreen forests. The name is Indian, signifying "wooded rocky mountains," and has a variety of spellings, like the river which flows through the pass. A mile beyond the New York-Vermont boundary is 49.0 NORTH POWNAL. Alt 560 ft. (Part of Pownal twp.) Ben- nington Co. Settled 1724. This hamlet lies on the level floor of the vale near the west gate of the Hoosic Pass, beneath Kfeigger's Rocks. This bluff marks the site of the glacial dam that held back an ancient lake, whose shore line is still traceable on the hillsides. A few scattered lakelets back in the hills about the entrance to the pass are all that remain of these ancient waters. President Garfield and President Arthur, who succeeded to the Presidency after Garfield's assassination, both taught in the little brown school house. The Westinghouse farm, set- tled by the inventor's great-grandparents, is on the riverbank opposite Kreigger's Rocks. The cliffs are named for Juria Kreigger, a Dutch squatter of 1724, who received title for land from the English in 1760 in return for the mill and other improvements he had made. In 1765 the death of Hans Kreigger, his son, led to the trial of the widow for witchcraft on charges preferred by certain Rhode Island Baptists of "intolerable inquisitiveness" and "unparalleled volubility." She was put in the river through the ice and sank to the bottom, proving her innocence, whereat the executioners pulled her out and saved her life. 52.5 POWNAL. Alt 600 ft. Pop (twp) 1599. Bennington Co. Settled 1724. The village is in the beautiful intervale between the north and south entrances of the Hoosic Pass of the Taconics. It was settled by Dutch squatters in 1724; in 1760 it was chartered by Governor Benning Wentworth of New Hampshire with his custom- ary stipulations whereby each landholder must build a house of regu- lation type, clear land, and help construct meeting houses, schools, mills, bridges, and roads. The first elder of Pownal, George Gardner, a stanch old Tory, was converted into a Whig after the Battle of Bennington by being hung from a fence post by his waistband. Notwithstanding this summary treatment he lived to plant an apple orchard at eighty-five and eat its fruit nineteen years later. The Weeping Rocks (54.0), below Pownal, are at the eastern end of the Hoosic Pass, one of the points admired by Washing- ton on his horseback trip to Bennington in August, 1790, to make final arrangements for Vermont's admittance into the Union. The eastern view extends over Williamstown with its Gothic tower to Greylock, the highest peak in Massachusetts. The Rocks are "pudding-stone," the oldest outcrop in the 406 POWNAL WILLIAMSTOWN valley. Overlying are the schist and limestone of a later age, the Green Mountain quartzite breaking through to the north and east. Mohican tradition foretold the downfall of the tribe at the place where the "rocks wept"; and on this spot the Mohawks butchered the Mohican war party in 1668. "Silent they fell at their chieftain's side, And Hoosac blushed with the purple tide. Here mourn the rocks a nation's woe, And tear-drops from the mountain flow!" At Squire Ware's State Line Tavern, two miles and a half down the road, refreshments are served, and on occasion mar- riages may take place, in Pownal, Vt., or Williamstown, Mass., as may be most expedient. From this point the route is marked by red bands on poles and posts. The Sand Springs in White Oaks village (55.5), to the left of the highway, have been valued highly for rheumatic and kidney troubles ever since the days of the Mohicans, and a sanitarium has long been established here. The surface water descends to a depth of 1500 feet through the ver- tical crevices of the quartzite upheaval above mentioned, returning at a constant temperature of 74, charged with gases similar to those of the Hot Springs of Arkansas and Carlsbad. There is an Indian cemetery here where relics are still found. From 1781 to 1827 many negro slaves from New York State took refuge on the banks of Broad Brook, stimulating the already growing local antipathy to slavery. Turning to the right just beyond the Springs the road crosses the river and passes under R.R., climbing a slight grade into 57.0 WILLIAMSTOWN. Alt 595 ft. Pop (twp) 3708 (1910), 3981 (1915). Berkshire Co. Settled 1749. Mfg. cotton, woolens, and corduroy. Williamstown, the home of Williams College, is a pleasant residential village on the Hoosic and Green rivers in the midst of beautiful scenery. Hawthorne's dictum, "Like a day- dream to look at," written in 1838, holds to this day. The long Main Street runs east and west, undulating over a succes- sion of knolls, bordered with broad stretches of lawn and stately elms in the midst of which are the college buildings of creamy gray stone and brick with broad vistas between. The village is but a fringe about the college. The manufacturing plants are a mile north, at the junction of the Green and Hoosic rivers. The Field Memorial Park at the western end of Main St. was laid out by Frederick Law Olmsted and is named in honor of Cyrus W. Field, a Williams student, of the noted Field fam- ily of Stockbridge (p 250), and the organizer of the Atlantic Telegraph Company, that laid the first transatlantic cable. About the year 1874 he gave $10,000 for the purpose of beau- tifying the streets of the town. The first school house, a log structure built in 1763, occupied the site of the Hotel Greylock, R. 15 I. ALBANY TO WILLIAMSTOWN 407 on the corner of Main and North Sts. It also served as a town hall and meeting house. On the opposite side of North St. was the fort and stockade of 1756. In Mission Park, reached by way of Park St., is the Hay- stack Monument, commemorating a prayer meeting of August, 1806, held by five students who took refuge here from a thun- der-shower, under the lee of a haystack. The American Mission movement dates from this impromptu service which led to the organization of the Society of United Brethren. West College, built in 1790 and remodeled in 1854, the old- est of the college buildings, is on the south side of Main St., nearly opposite Park St. Room n, near the northeast corner of the third floor, was occupied by William Cullen Bryant. Opposite is the mansion of the president of the college, and standing back from the street beyond West College are the laboratory buildings, one of the many gifts of the late Fred- erick F. Thompson, a New York banker of the class of 1856. On the same side of the road, at the summit of a little knoll at the corner of Spring St., is Morgan Hall, and opposite is the beautiful Congregational Church, one of the most perfect of Christopher Wren meeting houses' in New England. Behind the church, a hundred yards from the street, is Grace Hall, the classic portico of cool gray stone contrasting with its own red brick and that of Williams Hall, a dormitory still further to the north. These two buildings are the latest additions to the college, in the modern academic style. To the right of Grace Hall is the chapter house of the Sigma Phi Fraternity, moved here from Albany, where it was the manor house of the Van Rensselaer family. On the eastern corner of Main and Spring Sts. is the gymna- sium with a clock tower from which the chimes sound the hour and the quarters in an unusual cadence. Next door is the old chapel, and then East College, with the old Hopkins Ob- servatory, built of stone quarried from the quartzite ledges of the neighboring hills, at the far end of its greensward quad- rangle on the next hilltop. Across Main St. is the Memorial Chapel, in memory of Williams' benefactor, Frederick F. Thompson. It is a well-proportioned Gothic church with a tower that is a model of its kind. In front is a monument to the Williams students who died in the Civil War. To the left of the chapel is Hopkins Hall, named in honor of Mark Hop- kins, Williams' greatest president, and to the right is Griffin Hall, the handsomest of the older buildings. The steep as- cent from the east was called 'Consumption Hill,' from a say- ing of President Griffin, the builder of the hall, that the con- sumptive tendencies of many a student had been cured by 408 WILLIAMSTOWN the deep breathing resulting from hurrying up the hill to prayers. Torrey's Woods, through which there is a pleasant drive, lie to the south of the town. On Bee Hill, to the west, in a farmhouse just above Flora's Glen, Hamilton Gibson wrote "Sharp Eyes." A mile southwest of the town, by the north flank of Bee Hill, is Flora's Glen, beloved of Bryant. Behind Bee Hill rises Berlin Mountain, the highest point in this section of the Taconic ridge. A road over the mountain leads to the village of Berlin, N.Y., where hundreds of varieties of gladioli are grown at Meadowvale Farm, the property of Arthur Cowee. On the eastern side of the valley are Greylock, the State's highest peak (p 410), and the Hopper (p 256). The township of Williamstown, originally called West Hoosac, was established by the General Court in 1749 and the village laid out sev- eral years later. Main Street was laid out in 1750, fifteen rods wide, from the Green river bridge westward over four hills to Buxton Brook. Fort Hoosac was built in 1756 on Main St., just west of North St. One of the first landholders was Colonel Ephraim Williams, Jr., later commander of Fort Massachusetts nearby, who was killed at the Bat- tle of Lake George in 1755. Lamenting "his want of a liberal educa- tion," he left a bequest on which augmented by a lottery to upward of $72,500 the Williams Free 'School was built in 1790 and named Williams College in 1793. The town was named for him in compliance with a proviso in his will. The founder perished in the skirmish pre- ceding the Battle of Lake George, in 1755. His memory is kept green among the students by the following toast: "Oh, here's to the health of Eph Williams, Who founded a school in Billville, And when he was scalped by the Indians, He left us his boodle by will. And here's to old Fort Massachusetts, And here's to the old Mohawk Trail, And here's to historical Pe-ri Who grinds out his sorrowful tale." The last lines refer to the Williams historian, Prof. A. L. Perry, father of Bliss Perry, who occupies the chair of James Russell Lowell at Harvard; another son is Principal of Phillips Exeter Academy. In 1836 Mark Hopkins was elected President of Williams College and held office until 1887, for thirty-six years. He is widely recog- nized as one of the foremost American educators, whose method of stirring the creative and meditative faculties of his pupils, in the man- ner of Plato, was an innovation. James A. Garfield, one of Williams' famous alumni, said in a speech just before his election to the Presi- dency of the United States, " Give me a log with Mark Hopkins sit- ting upon one end of it and myself upon the other, and that is college enough for me." President Hopkins said of the graduates of Williams, "They have come from the yeomanry of the country, from the plough and the workshop, with clear heads, and firm nerves, and industrious habits, and unperverted tastes in need, it may be, of polish, but susceptible of the highest." This rustic simplicity vanished with the forgotten Gravel and Chip Days, when the students hauled gravel for the college walks in the fall, and later raked up the litter about their woodpiles, where they R. 15 2. WILLIAMSTOWN TO GREENFIELD 409 had sawn and split the winter's fuel. Mountain Day is still observed; as in the time of Professor Albert Hopkins, Mark Hopkins' brother, students climb to the top of Greylock and stay overnight to watch the sunrise. Probably this custom called forth the epigram of Thoreau: "It were as well to be educated in the shadow of a mountain as in more classic shades. Some will remember, no doubt, not only that they went to the college, but that they went to the mountain." Among the prominent alumni of Williams are William Cullen Bry- ant, James A. Garfield, whose son, of the Class of 1885, is now President of the college; Mark Hopkins; William Dwight Whitney, the scholar and lexicographer; the Sedgwicks; the Fields of Stockbridge; Amos Eaton, the geologist and botanist; Washington Gladden; and G. Stanley Hall, the psychologist. R. 15 2. Williamstown to Greenfield. 42.0 m. Via NORTH ADAMS and the MOHAWK TRAIL. The route continues up the Hoosic valley to North Adams and there crosses Hoosac Mountain by the Mohawk Trail, descending the Deerfield valley to Greenfield. The direct road to North Adams, a State Highway with red markers, follows Main St. eastward across the Green river. Note. An alternate route, via Cole Ave., over R.R. and to the right, through the village of Blackinton, is a longer road and not in such good condition. Leaving Williamstown the State Road traverses the eastern end of the rich alluvial plain between Bald Mountain (2200 ft) on the north, the southernmost spur of the Green Mountains, and Prospect Mountain (2600 ft), to the south. In front, to the east, is Hoosac Mountain, the "Forbidden Mountain," rising like an impassable wall fifteen hundred feet above the chimneys of North Adams. Upon nearing the little industrial village of Braytonville (3.0), Mt. Williams stands out from Prospect, like its twin. The two domes are symmetrical and of almost equal height, rising about 1600 feet above the valley. In a field (3.5) between the road and the R.R., as the road curves left, an elm and a flagstaff mark the site of old Fort Massachusetts, built in 1744. Edward Everett, the orator, called it the 'Thermopylae of New England,' referring to the incident of 1746 when goo French and Indians stormed it for forty-eight hours and only secured its surrender when every grain of powder was exhausted. The captives were taken to Lake George, but a new garrison soon occupied it under Colonel Williams, and held it for three years. It was in 1744 during King George's War that Governor William Shirley ordered a cordon of forts built at intervals of six or eight miles between Fort Dummer, on the Connecticut, and the upper Hoosic river. Fort Massachusetts was one of these. It was built 60 feet square, the wall 12 feet high and 14 inches thick constructed of pine logs on a stone foundation. Close by is the old Mohawk Ford, where the Indian trail crossed the river. 410 NORTH ADAMS 5.0 NORTH ADAMS. Alt 1000 ft. Pop 22,019. Berkshire Co. Settled 1751. Mfg. prints and other cotton goods, woolens, shoes, lime, and foundry products. North Adams is a modern industrial town at the junction of the branches of the Hoosic river, which furnishes power for its industries, including the Arnold Print Works, the Windsor Print Works, several cotton and woolen mills, and three large shoe plants. The opening of the Hoosac Tunnel in 1874 gave a commercial impetus to the town perpetuated in its slogan, "We hold the Western Gateway." The Normal School and Mark Hopkins Training School have a high reputation. Here, as at Pittsfield, balloon ascensions have been frequent. On the hillsides about, the shore line of an ancient lake may be plainly traced which extended from Stamford, Vt., to Williamstown. A mile northeast of the town on Hudson's Brook is the natural bridge, 45 feet high and 10 feet wide. Hawthorne often bathed here during his visit in the summer of 1838, and thus described it: "The cave makes a fresh impression upon me every time I visit it, so deep, so irregular, so gloomy, so stern; part of its walls the pure white of the marble, others covered with a gray decomposition and with spots of moss, and with brake growing where there is a handful of earth. I stand and look into its depths at various points, and hear the roar of the stream re-echoing up. It is like a heart that has been rent asunder by a torrent of passion, which has raged and foamed, and left its ineffaceable traces; though now there is but a little rill of feeling at the bottom." South of the town, at the head of the Notch, between Grey- lock and Ragged Mountain, is the Bellowspipe, a gap in the hills from which, when the wind sets in the right quarter, a hoarse, rumbling roar echoes over North Adams, dreaded by the Indians as the voice of the angry Manitou. The summit of Greylock is reached by a good road, nine miles long, through the Notch, and also by an automobile road from Lanesboro (p 254). The view from the forty-foot observation tower includes the White Mountains, Great Blue Hill at Boston, the Catskills, and the Adirondacks. About 9000 acres surrounding the summit is a State Reservation; at the Superintendent's lodge meals and limited accommodations for the night are provided. "The serious mountain," as Emerson called Greylock, has been climbed by Marion Craw- ford, Fanny Kemble, Hawthorne, Thoreau, and many other celebrities. Gray Lock was the name of the grim old War- ranoke chieftain who before King Philip's War, according to tradition, lived near Westfield, but after the dispersion of the tribes made his headquarters on Lake Champlain, whence through the Hoosac valley he raided the settlements. Ephraim Williams here built a sawmill and a grist mill at the meeting of the branches of the Hoosic, and the neighborhood was known as R. 15 2. WILLIAMSTOWN TO GREENFIELD 411 'Slab City' from the lumber cut here. Forges worked the iron ore of Greylock. In 1860 the iron plates of the "Monitor" were made here. A cotton mill was built in 1811, one of the first in the country. A. B. Wilson invented his sewing machine here before 1850 and placed it on the market as the Wheeler and Wilson with such success that in 1865 he returned with his profits and built the Wilson House, a hotel. The Hoosac Tunnel, four and three quarters miles in length and therefore the longest upon this continent, was commenced as a private enterprise in 1853 and after much financial stress was completed by the Commonwealth of Massachusetts in 1874 a t a cost of 195 lives and over $20,000,000. The work was carried on from four different head- ings at once, yet there was but five sixteenths of an inch discrepancy when the headings met. Electric traction is now used. A mile east of North Adams, Hoosac Mountain rises in a bold rampart. Until 1914 there was but an indifferent stage road over it, which made automobile travel impracticable. The so-called Mohawk Trail, a State Highway, opened in 1915, is well built, with an oiled macadam surface and no grades exceeding seven per cent. The grades, however, are long, and water tanks should be filled before starting. This new road is one of the most beautiful in New England and dis- closes wonderful views. The State expended $250,000 on its construction, which took two years. It was over this road that the warlike Mohawks invaded New England territory and subdued the New England tribes. In 1663 the Greenfield river tribe of Pocumtucks used this same trail in their re- taliatory raid upon the Mohawks. The Dutch traders at Albany, the following year, sought to end such raids by a treaty of peace be- tween the warring nations, but the assassination of a Mohawk chief, who followed this trail to Pocumtuck to ratify the treaty, caused a revival of the feud. The old Indian trail was, in the opinion of the highway engineers, somewhat to the south of the present road. Leaving Main St. at the red brick Baptist Church on the left the route turns left on Eagle St. and right on Union St., following red-banded poles and posts. Half a mile beyond at the fork bear right, away from the trolley, up a steep grade, at which point the new oiled macadam road surface begins. At the Clarksburg hairpin turn (9.0), which is only two miles from the Vermont border, there is a magnificent view to the north and west into the Green Mountains. At the top of the ascent at an elevation of 2000 feet we look upon North Adams, 1000 feet below, and Greylock and the valley of the southern Hoosac beyond. No other highway in the State can equal in natural grandeur the views from this road. In the saucer-like valley extending southward from the road is the little hamlet of Florida. Here is the central shaft of the Hoosac Tunnel. When in 1867 this had been sunk to a depth of 583 feet, an explosion of a tank of gasoline caused the death of thirteen men at the bottom of the shaft, and it was not until a year later that their bodies were recovered. 412 NORTH ADAMS SHELBURNE FALLS The State Road here follows the old stage route to Whit- combs Summit (13.0), whence we look down 1000 feet and more into the depths of the Deerfield valley. The eastern entrance of the Hoosac Tunnel is a mile to the left. Trains through the tunnel are now operated by electricity from Power Plant No. 5 of ttye N.E. Power Company, which is about three miles above the tunnel entrance. The water diverted from the Deerfield river by a 3o-foot dam is carried by canal to where under a 2oo-foot head it develops 20,000 h.p. The high tension transmission lines seen at the right carry power to North Adams and Pittsfield from the electric plants on the Deerfield river. There is an extended view to Mt. Monadnock and the New Hampshire hills. This is one of the points where one may well appreciate what is meant by the New England peneplain, for looking in every direction we see the hilltops reaching a common level, be- tween which have been carved out the deep valleys. On rare occasions the White Mountains are glimpsed. The Deerfield valley itself has been eroded to a depth below this level one fourth that of the Grand Canyon. Hawthorne, viewing this scene in 1838, wrote: "... peaks from one to two thousand feet high rush up on either bank of the river in ranges, thrusting out their shoulders side by side. Sometimes the precipice rises with abruptness from the immediate side of the river; sometimes there is a valley on either side; cultivated long and with all the smoothness and antique rurality of a farm near cities, this gentle picture is strongly set off by the wild mountain frame around it. I have never driven through such romantic scenery, where there was such variety and boldness of mountain shapes as this; and though it was a sunny day, the mountains diversified the view with sunshine and shadow, and glory and gloom." The road descends gently at first and then more steeply with many curves, successively beside Whitcombs Brook and Manning Brook, and along the gorge of Cold River, entering the valley of the Deerfield river (21.5) at an elevation of about 600 feet. The road crosses the R.R. and the river, the latter by a concrete bridge just below the old Mohawk Ford. To the right of the road is the site of Hawkes Fort and to the left, a little beyond, the larger Rice Fort, which were built in 1754 by Colonel Ephraim Williams to guard the ford and the trail. A monument on the left bank of the river commemorates Captain Moses and Phineas Rice, who were here killed by Indians in 1755 while at work in a meadow nearby. Even in this narrow upper portion of the Deerfield valley wherever the river has left a shelf of silt agricultural products thrive, for the air drainage protects the crops from early and late frosts. In these hills is the so-called 'apple valley,' where a long-forgotten orchard flourished valiantly without culture for decades. R. 15 2. WILLIAMSTOWN TO GREENFIELD 413 24.0 CHARLEMONT. Alt 590 ft. Pop (twp) 1001 (1910), 977 (1915). Franklin Co. Settled 1765. Mfg. maple sugar and wooden ware. This quiet mountain village is on a terrace north of the Deerfield, at the mouth of Mill Brook, with Mt. Peak (1660 ft) to the southwest, and Bald Mountain (1375 ft) to the north- east. Near the center of the village is the boyhood home of Charles Dudley Warner, marked by a large buttonwood at the roadside. In his "Being a Boy" he describes delightfully scenes and experiences in and about this village. In Colonial days this was a fortified post, and five miles up Mill Brook, at Heath, was Fort Shirley, one of the chain of forts guarding the trail between the Connecticut and Hoosic valleys, built in 1744. THE BOYHOOD HOME OF CHARLES DUDLEY WARNER The road continues along the north bank of the river straight through Charlemont and East Charlemont, turning right and crossing the river seven and a half miles below, where the river makes a sharp bend. Here a dam diverts the water through a isoo-foot tunnel to Plant No. 4 of the N.E. Power Company. The head is 64 feet, developing 8000 h.p. 33.0 SHELBURNE FALLS Alt 430 ft. Pop (twp) 1498 (1910), 1484 (1915). Franklin Co. Inc. 1768. Mfg. cutlery, cotton, and tools; electric power. Shelburne Falls, 'The Town of Tumbling Water,' is the center of the hydro-electric plants of the New England Power Company, their separate developments taking the water of the Deerfield at five levels, four plants being situated in or near the town, with a total installed capacity of 40,00x3 k.w. 414 SHELBURNE FALLS TURNERS FALLS Power from these stations operates trains through the Hoosac Tunnel and is carried over high tension transmission lines as far east as Fitchburg, Worcester, and Providence, and west to Pittsfield and Bennington. The three falls in Shelburne township aggregate about 150 feet. They were first known as Salmon Falls from the quantities of those fish that collected in the pools below in the spawning season. Hawthorne in 1838 wrote of the falls: "Here the river, in a distance of a few hundred yards, makes a descent of about 150 feet over a prodigious bed of rock. The river roars through a channel which it has worn in the stone, leaping in two or three distinct falls, and rushes downward, as from flight to flight of a broken and irregular staircase; the rocks seem to have been hewn away, as when mortals make a road." Yale locks were first made here by Linus Yale, their inventor, before the removal of the plant to Stamford. The Lamson & Goodnow Company have manufactured table cutlery here since 1837, the H. H. Mayhew Company, small mechanics' tools for half a century (see p 800), also the Goodell Company since 1893. The cotton mills of the Griswoldville Manufactur- ing Company and the cider and vinegar works of W. W. Gary & Sons, in Colerain nearby, are the other local industries. An excellent path leads to the top of Mt. Massaemett (1690 ft), a mile east of the town. On the summit is a sixty-foot stone tower used as a forest observatory. The view com- mands the valley of the Deerfield river as well as the descent to Greenfield and the Connecticut valley. The round trip to the tower may be easily made on foot in four hours, allowing an hour's rest. At the foot of the falls are some fine pot- holes and in the hillsides are the 'catamount dens.' The road turns right at the eastern end of Bridge St. and passes on the right Alice Brown's Tea Room and Maple Sweet- heart Shop (see p 800). It climbs round the southern end of Mt. Massaemett above the river. In the valley below, three miles below Shelburne Falls, is the concrete dam and the power station of Plant No. 2 of the New England Power Com- pany, with a head of sixty feet. Two miles further down at Bard well's Bridge will be located Plant No. i. The highway turns away from the river through the little village of Shelburne in the valley of Dragon Brook, where was the original settlement called "Deerfield North-West." The town was named in honor of the second Earl of Shelburne. Thence the highway ascends to an altitude of 700 feet, over the southern slope of Greenfield Mountain, thence descending rapidly, crossing Green River and entering on Shelburne and Main Sts., meeting Route 10 in the center of 42.0 GREENFIELD (R.10,p319). R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 415 R. 15 3. Greenfield to Boston. 98.5 m. Via GARDNER, FITCHBURG, AVER, CONCORD, and CAMBRIDGE. The route leads through naturally attractive country in the valleys of which, wherever waterpower has been available, have grown up industrial centers. Athol, Gardner, Fitchburg are manufacturing towns each with its specialty or diversity of industries. The course thence into Boston leads over the historic ground of Concord and Lexington, the mecca of all tourists to New England. This route is State Road throughout its length, marked, like all east and west State Highways in Massachusetts, by red bands on telegraph poles at all points of doubt. From Greenfield to Turners Falls alternative routes are available, both affording State Road most of the way. The southern route (the longer, 3.5) leaves by Deerfield St. to Cheapside, avoids crossing Deerfield River, turns to the left by the Montague City Road, underpasses R.R., and crosses the Connecticut by a long covered bridge, to Montague City and Turners Falls. The northern route, the Mountain Road, leaves Greenfield from the park, east on Main St., turning sharp to the left into High St. On the left is a fine Colonial brick house, on the right the hospital. The route ascends, skirting the base of Rocky Mountain, a steep ridge of forest-crowned rock overlooking the valley. The square tower is at Poet's Seat (p 320). Bear- ing to the right a broad view of the Connecticut discloses itself. The route descends with a view of Turners Falls beyond the river. The electric transmission line running down the valley carries power generated at the Turners Falls plant just above. The road crosses the river by a suspension bridge and beyond the canal ascends to the left to 3.0 TURNERS FALLS. Alt 187 ft. Pop (Montague twp) 6866 (1910), 7925 (1915). Franklin Co. Mfg. cutlery , paper , cot- ton, lumber, machinery. Turners Falls is a busy manufacturing town and the cutlery center of New England. It is one of the more recently devel- oped manufacturing towns of Massachusetts. A dam and canal were built here in 1792 to aid in the navigation of the river. The canal tolls here amounted to $10,500 in the year 1844. In 1866 the Turners Falls Company bought 700 acres and built a curved dam 1000 feet long. The fall of thirty-six feet affords a valuable waterpower producing 40,000 h.p. in electricity alone. Just above the town the river pushes be- tween the hills and then is joined by Millers River. The sandstone along the river bed is famous for fossil rep- tilian foot tracks, popularly known as 'bird tracks,' because 416 TURNERS FALLS ATHOL so many of them are three-toed, suggestive of a bird. Dis- covered by Dexter Marsh and Dr. James Deane of Greenfield, they attracted the attention of President Hitchcock, who formed a large collection of them in the museum of Amherst College. He believed them tracks of birds, but in the Trias- sic time when these imprints were made no birds were yet in existence. Many of these reptilians were, however, largely bipedal in their locomotion. One of the most famous locali- ties is Stoughton's Bird-Track Quarry, north of Turners Falls to the east of Factory Hollow, where the tracks may be seen in the living rock. This was an important fishing resort of the Indians who took salmon as they came upstream. Here occurred a "Great Falls Fight" in 1676 when a camp of Pocumtucks, gathered here to preserve fish, was attacked in the early dawn by a company of 140 volunteers from Had- ley and Northampton under Captain Turner. The retreat became a panic and Captain Turner and thirty-eight of his men were killed while many wounded and stragglers were cut off. A tablet now marks the supposed grave of Turner and the site of the "Great Falls Fight." From Turners Falls the route, with red markers, ascends and runs along the bluff above the gorge of the Connecticut known as The Narrows, and a little highei up the Horse Race. 7.5 MILLERS FALLS. Alt 300 ft. (Part of Erving twp.) Frank- lin Co. Indian name Pequoiag. Mfg. artificial stone, hard- ware, and paper. The village is at the junction of the Central Vermont and B. & M. Railways, and in the old stage coach days was known as Grout's Corner, from the hotel keeper. Its development as a manufacturing center began in 1869. The route crosses Millers River and runs at an elevation of 500 feet above the gorge, which is here deep and narrow, passing through the hamlet of Farley, named for the builders of a factory here in 1883. There are paper, pulp, and knitting mills. Three quarters of a mile beyond is Hermit Rock. 14.0 ERVING. Alt 500 ft. Pop (twp) 1148 (1910), 1168 (1915). Franklin Co. Inc. 1838. Mfg. furniture, paper, and pulp. The town was named for John Erving, a Boston merchant who purchased land here in 1750. There are several factories. The route now runs along the course of the river through Wendell Depot and West Orange to 19.0 ORANGE. Alt 505 ft. Pop (twp) 5282 (1910), 5374 (1915). Franklin Co. Inc. 1783. Mfg. waterpower turbines, valves, and waterpower machinery, tools, sewing machines, tapioca, foundry and machine shop products. Orange is an industrial town with several metal manufac- tories. Among the important industries are the New Home Sewing Machine Company, established 1862, the Rodney Hunt Machine Company, the Chase Turbine Company, and R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 417 the Minute Tapioca Company. Charles Grout of Orange invented one of the first steam automobiles in the country, which he manufactured here for a time, and later built gaso- line cars, but the firm went out of business some five years ago. Not far from the central square of the town is the new Town Hall, on the lower floor of which is a small collection of Colonial antiquities and Indian relics. The library was given to the town by the widow of the late John Wheeler, whose large mansion stands just beyond. The route continues to follow the red markers along the valley of Millers River, passing Brookside Park, a summer amusement place two miles from Orange. 23.5 ATHOL. Alt 550 ft. Pop (twp) 8536 (1910), 9783 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1735. Indian name Paygauge. Mfg. tools, drills, shoes, toys and games, combs, and blankets. Value of Product, $4,891,000; Payroll, $1,522,000. Athol is a modern industrial town pleasantly situated in the valley and on the hills above Millers River. It is best known to the outside world as the home of the great Starrett factory, a unique establishment, making more than 2100 varieties of mechanics' tools, sold the world over (p Soo). Many of these were invented or devised by the president of the works. The Union Twist Drill Company makes drills and gear cutters. The Diamond Match Company's plant cuts up a million and a half feet of lumber per month into match blocks. Celluloid combs and novelties are manufactured by two firms. The European war has given an impetus to local industries in the production of tools and machines used in the manufacture of guns and projectiles. Route 19 (p 449), from Providence and Worcester to Brat- tleboro and Lake Champlain, crosses the route here. South- ward it is marked in yellow. The town was settled in 1735 as the plantation of Pequoig and in- corporated in 1762. It was named by Colonel John Murray of Rut- land, the largest landowner, who claimed to be the second son of the Duke of Athol], Scotland. The drinking-fountain on the Upper Common, a mile east of the business center, was given by the Twichell family as a memorial to Ginery Twichell, a stage driver of Athol, who became known as 'The Unrivaled Express Driver.' In 1846 when the Oregon Question so endangered the peace of England and America, Sir Robert Peel was returned as Prime Minister, which insured peace. The news reached Boston, where the New York papers had arranged for the quickest possible service by train, but Twichell, riding horseback through the snow from Worcester to Hartford in three hours and twenty minutes and by train thence to New York, beat the time of the regular trains and won a 'scoop.' From Athol the route leaves the valley of Millers River, bearing to the right, ascending through Athol Center, and fol- 418 ATHOL FITCHBURG lowing the trolley to an elevation of noo feet. At Powers Mills (29.0) just beyond crossroads at fork the route bears left with red markers. Note. The right fork is a shorter route by poorer road through Templeton, a chair manufacturing town, East Temple- ton, and South Gardner to Gardner. From Powers Mills the route descends several hundred feet and crossing the Otter river enters Baldwinsville (33.0). At the center of the village, turning right, the road passes be- neath two railroads and ascends a grade to the Otter river and continues over rolling country to 39.0 GARDNER. Alt 1030 ft. Pop (twp) 14,699 (1910), 16,163 (1915); including French Canadians, Poles, Swedes, Finns, and Lithuanians. Worcester Co. Inc. 1785. Mfg. chairs, baby carriages, toys, furniture, oil stoves, time recorders, and foundry products. Value of Product, $7,342,298; Pay- roll, $2,348,699. Gardner, named for Colonel Thomas Gardner, who was mortally wounded in the Battle of Bunker Hill, is a thriving and rapidly growing industrial town which has increased its population 76 per cent in the last twenty years. In a century it has become the greatest chair manufacturing town in the world, turning out annually 4,000,000 chairs having a value of $3,000,000. The industry was begun by James Comee and carried on by Levi Heywood (1800-82), who invented various kinds of chair-making machinery, and its develop- ment has been due largely to the enterprise of the Hey- wood family, though there are some twenty factories under independent ownership. The Heywoods and others have done much to make the town attractive and have presented it with a library which circulates books in six languages, a municipal bath house, a hospital, and other similar institutions. By the railroad station is a mammoth twelve-foot chair, containing 600 feet of lumber, an appropriate emblem of the town. The town stands on the height of land which extends from Wa- chusett to Monadnock, both of which are visible from the town. The natural drainage from the town flows in part toward the Connecticut and in part toward the Nashua river and into the Merrimack. The local waterpower is supplemented by electric power from the Connecticut river. The road after passing the railway station turns to the right passing over R.R. to South Gardner, where, at the church, Mt. Wachusett (R. 25) appears upon the right. Two miles from the town we cross the actual divide (1120 ft) between the basins of Nashua and Millers rivers. The road passes for several miles through a swamp, descending into R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 419 43.5 WESTMINSTER. Alt 724. Pop (twp) 1353 (1910), 1594 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1737. The town, originally called Narragansett No. 2, was granted for services rendered in King Philip's War. The year follow- ing settlement ten forts were built for protection. General Nelson A. Miles was born here in 1839. Near the center of the village the route turns sharply to the left downgrade, skirting the shores of a reservoir, across which is a fine view of Mt. Wachusett. A yellow-marked State road (R. 33) from Winchendon and Ashburnham enters on the left. Passing beneath the Fitchburg R.R. at the Westminster station the road descends into the valley of the Nashua river through the paper-making suburbs of Crockersville and West Fitchburg, entering the city of 51.0 FITCHBURG. Alt 470 ft. Pop 37,826 (1910), 39,656 (1915); one third foreign-born, French Canadians, Finns, Irish. One of the county-seats of Worcester Co. Mfg. paper and wood pulp, cotton, woolens, yarn, silk, toys, sporting goods, foundry and machine shop products. Value of Product, $24,831,000; Payroll, $4,779,000. Fitchburg is a busy manufacturing city with large mercantile and financial interests. The city lies in a deep valley. To the south, Rollstone Hill, from which huge quantities of granite have been quarried, rises abruptly 300 feet above the river. On the hills to the north are the residences of the mill owners and the wealthier citizens. Frequent dams along the Nashua river for some miles afford valuable power. The paper industry has long been the leading commercial enterprise and paper still forms one fifth of the value of the total factory output. The diversity of products is picturesquely indicated in the statement of the Board of Trade that Fitchburg produces every minute: "3 Revolvers, 5 pairs Shoes, 4 cans Axle Grease, 1-2 ton Granite, 3 Shirts, 90 Bricks, 8 miles Cotton Yarn, 1-2 horsepower Boiler, 10 Paper Boxes, 50 Paper Bags, 1-8 mile of Cloth, 100 Hair Pins, 1-8 ton of Paper, 2 Piano Knobs, 100 Ibs. Iron Castings, 15 Ibs. Brass Castings, 6 pairs White Cotton Gloves." It is further claimed that Fitchburg leads the world in the production of revolvers, cross-cut saws, screen plates, and steel horse collars. The first paper mill was built in 1805 on River St. The paper industry has largely been developed by the Crocker family. Crocker, Burbank & Co., Inc., make the paper for "The Saturday Evening Post" and "The Ladies' Home Journal." Crockerville, a suburb of paper mills, preserves the name of Alvah Crocker, a benefactor of the town. The But- terick pattern business was begun in 1863 by Ebenezer Butter- 420 FITCHBURG AVER ick. The Putnam Machine Company, now a branch of Max- well, Manning & Moore, is the largest establishment of its kind, manufacturing machine shop and railway tools. It was established in 1838. A large part of Fitchburg's factory products are exported to countries all over the world. The Simonds Manufacturing Company makes saws that cut more trees and logs than all other saws combined, and knives that cut a large part of the world's tobacco crop. The D. M. Dillon Steam Boiler Works were the first in the world to manufacture steel boilers. The varied products of the Iver Johnson's Arms and Cycle Works are manufactured here in Fitchburg. Among other important firms whose product is widely distributed are the Fitchburg Paper Company, the Geo. W. Wheelwright Paper Company (p 800), the Fitchburg Steam Engine Company, the Fitch- burg Machine Works, and the Goodnow Foundry Company, makers of flywheels and solid shot. The late Rodney Wallace presented the city with Wallace Way, the approach to the High School, and a library and art building as a home for the Fitchburg Public Library. Fitchburg claims among its distinguished men David I. Walsh, twice Governor of Massachusetts, and takes pride in the fact that Luther Burbank, the horticultural genius of the country, was a native of an adjacent town, where he developed his famous Burbank potato, and in his youth marketed his farm products in Fitchburg. Sir Hiram Stevens Maxim, inventor of the automatic ma- chine gun, worked in this city for a year during the Civil War for the Putnam Machine Company. In 1739 John Fitch built a garrison house in what is now part of Ashby and soon decided that the travel justified him in opening a tavern. From that day on the settlement grew. In 1748 Indians attacked and burned Fitch's garrison, two soldiers were killed, and Fitch, his wife, and five children were carried captives to Canada. Amos Kimball built the first dam on the Nashua river here in 1750. This region was known as Turkey Hills in the Colonial days, from the great number of wild turkeys. In coaching days there were many inns here, among them the Knight Tavern, which stood on the site of the Bijou Theater, a coaching tavern with a hundred horses and twenty coaches as well as a great many other vehicles. Previous to the Civil War, Fitchburg was a station on the 'Underground Railway.' In the suburbs of Fitchburg, on the road to Leominster, marked blue, is Whalom Park, with its beautiful lake, amusements, and open- air theater. Two miles north of Fitchburg's steep hills is Saima Farm, a Utopian pleasure-ground belonging to a large association of socialistic Finns, who repair thither in their autos on Saturdays and Sundays. Route 12 (p 377), from New London, Putnam, and Worcester to Peterboro and Concord, N.H., crosses here. South of Fitchburg it is marked blue. R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 421 Note. In addition to the main route to Boston, given below, there are several other practicable routes. Just beyond Lunenburg a route forks to the left, following the State Road through the delightful old town of Groton (p 57)) leading thence to Lexington and Boston, either by Westford, Carlisle, and Bedford, or by rejoining the main route at Littleton (p 422). (See Map, back cover.) A second route follows a blue-marked State Road, Route 12 (P 377)> through South Fitchburg to Leominster (p 376). If this road is followed further south it leads to Sterling and Route 25, reaching Boston by way of Clinton, Hudson, and Sudbury. From Leominster another route follows the trol- ley to the left from Lancaster St., crossing the Nashua river and passing through North Village, beyond which, near Lanes Crossing, is the Beaman Oak, said to be the largest white oak in the State, 29 feet in circumference at the base, 78 feet high, with a spread of 75 feet. It was probably already ancient when Gamaliel Beaman settled here in 1659. The road crosses R.R. and the broad valley of the Nashua river, ascending to the little town of Bolton, where it joins Route 25. From Bolton a route to the left leads through Stow and follows the trolley to Maynard, a manufacturing town on the Assabet river, with extensive paper mills. The route here turns right, crossing the Assabet river and following the trolley past the isolated buildings of extensive powder works which blow up normally once a year, but more frequently and dis- astrously in war time. The route then passes through the vil- lage of Westvale, turns right, crosses the Assabet, and rejoins Route 15 at the Sudbury river bridge (p 422). From the R.R. station, Fitchburg, the main route continues on Main St., following the red markers. 55.0 LUNENBURG. Alt 520 ft. Pop (twp) 1393 (1910), 1610 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1728. Mfg. baskets. This was the parent town from which Fitchburg was divided and incorporated in 1764. It was named in honor of George II of England, among whose titles was Duke of Liineburg. The lefthand roads lead to Groton (p 507), an alternate route to Boston above mentioned. The main route, with red markers, passes through Woods- ville (61.0), crossing the Nashua river just beyond. 63.5 AYER. Alt 232 ft. Pop (twp) 2797 (1910), 2779 (1915). Mid- dlesex Co. Settled 1655. Mfg. leather goods. Ayer is an important railway junction where several divi- sions of the Boston & Maine meet. A large portion of the population are engaged in railroading. It was formerly known 422 AYER CONCORD as Groton Junction, but was incorporated in 1871 under the name of Ayer in deference to James C. Ayer, the patent medi- cine manufacturer of Lowell, who extended aid to the new town. The Public Library is a gift of Frederick F. Ayer. This family was the first to make a great fortune from extensive advertis- ing of patent medicines, sarsaparilla, cherry pectoral, etc. The route through Ayer crosses R.R. and continues along East Main St., keeping to the left at the stone watering trough, crossing and recrossing R.R. 70.0 LITTLETON COMMON. Alt 270 ft. Pop (Littleton twp) 1229 (1910), 1228 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1715. In- dian name Nashoba. This is a pleasant country village on the watershed between the Nashua and the Concord rivers, considerably higher than the neighboring towns of Concord and Maynard. A number of fine residences and estates overlook its numerous beautiful ponds and lakes. The orchards of this section are among the finest in the State. Blanchard's Monument commemorates the first man hit at Concord Bridge, April 19, 1775. John Eliot had an Indian Church at Nashoba of ten families who subsisted, says Gpokin, "by planting corn, fishing, hunting, and some- times laboring with the English people." In King Philip's War two of the men of the town were killed. A girl of fifteen who had been set to watch the enemy from the summit of Nashoba Hill, a mile east of the camp, was taken captive and carried to Nashawa, now Lancaster. In the dead of night she took a saddle from under the head of her Indian captor, mounted a horse and safely escaped to her relatives. From Littleton Common, Route 38, between Worcester, Lowell, Lawrence, Haverhill, and Newburyport, turns left along a State Road, marked with yellow bands. The main route follows the red markers, passing a mile south of Nashoba Hill (380 ft) and a mile further on skirts the north- ern shore of Lake Nagog, a beautiful sheet of water, on the shore of which is Lake Nagog Inn. 73.0 NORTH ACTON. Alt 188 ft- Pop (Acton twp) 2136 (1910), 2151 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1735. The village lies to the left of the road. Following the valley of Nashoba Brook and crossing and recrossing R.R. (77.0), the route passes the State Reformatory, on the right. Crossing the Assabet river we follow Elm St., and turn left into Main St. 79.5 CONCORD. Alt 121 ft. Pop (twp) 6421 (1910), 6653 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1635. Indian name Musketequid. Concord is both a literary shrine and a mecca of patriotism. As the home of Hawthorne, Emerson, Thoreau, and the Al- cotts it has the significance in American literature of Stratford in England or Weimar in Germany. The slow flowing Con- cord and Assabet fortunately turn no mill wheels and have R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 423 brought no industrialism. It remains quiet and serene in atmosphere, though its charm has in recent years attracted to it for residence an increasing number of Boston families, whose dwellings have given it a touch of modernity. Quite apart from its associations, the town and the sur- rounding country, its meadows, rivers, and hills, have a placid beauty that is well suggested by the name of Concord. A century ago Timothy Dwight quaintly wrote: "The salubrity of Concord violates the most received medical theories concern- ing such diseases as are supposed to be generated by stagnant waters. I know of no stream which approaches nearer to a state of stagnation than Concord River." "It runs so slowly," Alcott said, "because it hates to leave Concord." On Main St. is the homestead of the Hoar family, which sent five members to Congress, of whom Senator George F. Hoar was the most notable. At the corner of Main St., facing on the Green, is the Wright Tavern, built in 1747, where the minute men nightly over their tankards discussed the com- ing trouble. On April 19, 1775, Major Pitcairn, who made this the British headquarters, boasted, while stirring his toddy, that he would "stir the blood of the damned Yankee rebels before night." Within are some interesting Colonial relics. Adjoining is the Unitarian Church, where a tablet states that the Provincial Congress assembled in the meeting house which preceded this present one. On the opposite side of the Green is the Colonial Inn, a hiding place for arms in 1775. From the northern corner of the Green, Monument Street leads to the Concord river. "The rude bridge that arched the flood" has been replaced by a cement structure. A simple obelisk of granite marks the spot where stood the invading army, and on the opposite bank the "Minute Man," the first statue of Daniel Chester French, a native of the town, marks where "the embattled farmers stood, their flag to April's breeze unfurled." Near the obelisk the graves of two unknown British soldiers, enclosed by stone posts and iron chains, are marked: "They came three thousand miles, and died, To keep the Past upon its throne; Unheard, beyond the ocean tide, Their English mother made her moan." The little force of one hundred minute men, under Captain George Minot, first gathered by the Liberty Pole about a quarter of a mile from Monument Square down the Lexington Road, behind the house of the Antiquarian Society. As the 800 British redcoats approached, the Americans withdrew, first to the Square, and then down Monu- ment St. across the old North Bridge and the Meadows to Liberty St., where a tablet in the wall marks their position. Near at hand is the house of Major John Buttrick, who here took command. When, however, they saw the smoke and flames rising from the burning spoils the British had gathered, they started to advance across the bridge 424 CONCORD and had arrived where the "Minute Man" now stands when one of the British regulars fired. The shot was followed by a volley which instantly killed Captain Davis and Private Hosmer. In the return fire two British were killed and the rest fled in confusion. The Americans crossed the bridge in pursuit, some going to the Elisha Jones House, nearly opposite the Old Manse, and later by a broad circuit through the meadows to Merriam's Corner on the Lexington Road, where they endeavored to head off the fleeing British. The Old Manse, wearing a look of sleepy and unkempt mys- tery, stands to the west of the road not far from the Battle Ground. It was built before the Revolution by the grand- father of the philosopher-poet, Rev. William Emerson, who from the windows witnessed the fight, and left a detailed de- scription of how the guard at the bridge "retreated in the greatest disorder and confusion." In his grandfather's house young Ralph wrote many of his early poems and his first book, "Nature." But "Mosses from an Old Manse" will always link Hawthorne's memory with the place. From Monument Square, Bedford Street leads in a quarter of a mile to Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. Beyond the great green hill that gives the cemetery its name on the tree-crowned ridge are the graves of Emerson, Hawthorne, Thoreau, and the Alcotts. Thoreau lies in the family lot to the left of Ridge Path. Within a hedge-bound enclosure is a small stone carved with the one word "Hawthorne," as was his wish. Near at hand on the opposite side of the path is the grave of Louisa M. Alcott, and a little further is the rose quartz boulder mark- ing the grave of Emerson under the pine which long before his death he chose to be his sentinel. From the Green, and Monument Square, Lexington Street leads to Merriam's Corner and Boston. The Antiquarian Society's House on the left is filled with old furniture and relics harking from the Colonial and literary days. Beyond and opposite where the road forks is the square white house, in which Emerson lived from 1835 until his death. The library was at the right as one entered. The house is not open to visitors. The pines and chestnuts which partly screen it from the road were planted by Thoreau and Alcott when Emerson was in Europe. Emerson wrote in a letter to a friend in July, 1835: "I have dodged the doom of building, and have bought the Coolidge house in Concord, with the expectation of entering it next September. It is a mean place, and cannot be fine until trees and flowers give it a character of its own. . . . My house cost me $3500, and may next sum- mer cost me four or five more to enlarge and finish. The seller alleges that it cost him $7800." Orchard House, the second home of Bronson Alcott and the birthplace of the Concord School of Philosophy, lies further on to the left. Alcott wrote, "My neighbors flatter R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 425 me in telling me that I have one of the best placed and most picturesque houses in town." The house has recently been restored by the local Woman's Club and here one may visit the room where "Little Women" was written. The Hill- side Chapel just behind was built in 1879 for the meetings of the School of Philosophy. Louisa wrote in her diary: "Father has his dream realized at last, and is in his glory, with plenty of talk to swim in ... something new in this dull old town; . . . The town swarms with budding philosophers, and they roost on our steps like hens waiting for corn." CONCORD MASS P.E.SARGENT The Wayside, the next house, was the Alcotts' first home, which Hawthorne bought in 1852 and named because of its nearness to the road. Here he lived until his death in 1864. Hawthorne wrote his friend George William Curtis: "Before Mr. Alcott took it in hand, it was a mean-looking affair with two peaked gables. . . . He added a porch in front, and a central peak, and a piazza, at each end, and painted it a rusty olive hue, and invested the whole with a modest picturesqueness." On his return from England in 1860 Hawthorne enlarged the house and built the tower in which he had his study. A reach of two hundred yards running east and west upon the hill back 426 CONCORD LEXINGTON of the house was worn by his feet into the path which is called by his name. Of recent years Wayside has been the home of Mrs. Lothrop, 'Margaret Sidney,' the author of the popular children's series "The Five Little Peppers." The Concord grape was originated by Ephraim Bull, whose house is next beyond Wayside. The original vine may still be seen on the arbor behind the house. A gold beater by trade, Ephraim Bull moved to Concord in 1836 and at once "looked about to see what I could find among our wildings. The next thing to do was to find the best and earliest grape for seed, and this I found in an accidental seedling at the foot of the hill. The crop was abundant, ripe in August, and of very good quality for a wild grape. I sowed the seed in the autumn of 1843. Among them the Concord was the only one worth saving." Thoreau was born in a handsome oldfashioned house a mile south of the village. He made a living making lead pencils and preparing plumbago for electrotyping. The site of his little cabin under the tall pines on Walden Pond a mile and a half to the south is marked by a stone cairn. Frank B. Sanborn, the modern sage of Concord, lecturer, abolitionist, and last of the ' Concord Philoso- phers,' lives in a house on WAYSIDE, CONCORD VM W 1 iU Elm St. close to the river. His independence of thought and action and his insistence on his original and individual sewage system brought down upon him in the summer of 1915 the persecution of the town officials. Concord was the first inland town founded in the Bay Colony. It was settled in 1635 by a few families led by Major Simon Willard, Indian trader, and Peter Bulkley, the minister, who made their way from Cambridge along Indian trails. A year later, the settlers secured a quitclaim for the tract from the widow of Nanapashemet, chief of the Massachusetts tribe. Concord was made a shire town in i6g2 and became the most important central town of the province. The first county convention to protest against the Acts of Parliament and King was held here in August, 1774, and here the Provincial Congress sat in 1775. It was the principal place for the deposit of the arms and military stores obtained by the Congress, and at this time its chief industry was the making of firearms and musket 'balls. -Nearly two hundred townsmen were engaged in the Fight, representing almost every family of the town at that time. For the year when the Har- vard College buildings at Cambridge were used as barracks the college removed to Annursneck Hill. By the middle of the nineteenth cen- tury Concord had changed from a busy shire town to a quiet country village, but it had a world-wide fame as a retreat for philosophers and literary folk. Of late years market-gardening has flourished on the rich soil of the district. R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 427 Leaving Concord by Lexington St., the route follows the red markers to Merriam's Corner (81.0). Here the minute men intercepted the British retreat from Concord and at this point began the running fight in which the regulars were fired upon from "behind each farmyard fence and wall" until they joined at Lexington the re-enforcements of Earl Percy. Half- way to Lexington on the left, a large pyramidal monument marks the place where Paul Revere's ride ended. Here he and Dawes were captured about two o'clock on the morning of the Nineteenth by a British patrol stationed here to intercept communication with Concord. Dr. Prescott, who accompa- nied them, escaped by jumping his horse over a stone wall, and gave the alarm at Concord. A mile further on the road forks beyond a rocky cliff. The course of the British was over the road to the left. A tablet on the left marks the position where the British made a stand in the course of their retreat. At Fiske's Hill, further on, Major Pitcairn was thrown from his horse and the animal and its accouterments captured. His pistols are now in the Hancock-Clarke House at Lexington. 86.5 LEXINGTON. Alt 225ft Pop (twp) 4918 (1910), 5506 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1640. Lexington is a beautiful residential town of increasing pop- ularity. The triangular elm-shaded Green, surrounded by beautiful Colonial structures, wears today an air of undisturbed repose; yet the interest here is all of war and bloodshed and the numerous tablets all relate to the stirring events on that igth of April, 1775. At the corner of the triangle as we enter is an ivy-grown granite monument erected in 1799, perhaps the first prominent memorial of the Revolution. Before it lie, re-interred here in 1835, those who died upon the Green in the early gray of that momentous April morning. A marble tablet in the face of the monument bears a rather long and oratorical inscription, beginning: "Sacred to Liberty and the Rights of Mankind! The Freedom and Independence of America, Sealed and Defended by the Blood of Her Sons." On the opposite side of the Green embedded in the green- sward is a fifteen-ton boulder on the face of which has been cut a long-barreled musket, over which hangs a powder horn, the barrel pointing the direction of the line-up of the minute men. Below are inscribed the words attributed to Captain Parker, who was in command: "Stand your ground Don't fire unless fired upon But if they mean to have a war Let it begin here." 428 LEXINGTON As Major Pitcairn approached with his 600 regulars he heard the roll of the drum assembling the seventy minute men who had earlier gathered in the Buckman Tavern, just opposite the Green. The British regulars came forward at the double- quick. Pitcairn rode up and arrogantly ordered, "Disperse, ye rebels!" They stood their ground. A shot came from the British line followed by a volley and then another. Eight of the minute men lay dead and nine wounded. Then the minute men scattered and the British after a half hour's delay proceeded on their way to Concord. At the apex of the Green facing the direction from which the British approached is Kitson's bronze " Minute Man," spirited and admirably poised, representing Captain John Parker, lightly leaping up a pile of field stone which forms the base and support of the fountain in front. About the Green are a number of historic houses. To the doorstep of the Harrington House, at the corner of Bedford St., Jonathan Harrington, wounded in that first volley, crawled to die at his wife's feet. The old Buckman Tavern, built in 1690, where the minute men assembled, a square, severely plain, but well-preserved old building with dormer windows, is now in the possession of the Lexington Historical Society. Opposite the Unitarian meeting house a lane leads to the old cemetery where is the grave of Captain Parker. At the corner of Bedford and Hancock Sts. is the little building built in 1822 for Lexington Academy and taken over by the State in 1839 for the first of all normal schools in the country. A little way down Hancock St. across R.R. on the right is the Hancock-Clarke House, a plain and unimportant-look- ing building, which, however, attracts across its threshold as many as 20,000 visitors a year. The house originally stood on the opposite side of the street and was moved here in 1896, when it became the headquarters of the Historical Society. It contains interesting and valuable collections. (Open free daily and Sunday afternoon.) The rear portion of the present building, one-storied with dormer windows, was built by the Rev. John Hancock in 1698. In this Manse lived two minis- ters of the Lexington Church, whose term of pastoral service counted up to 101 years. The builder was the great-grand- father of John Hancock, the Revolutionary patriot, and here the latter frequently came to visit his grandfather and later his cousin, the Rev. Jonas Clarke. John Hancock and Samuel Adams were sleeping in an upper room in the front portion of the house on that fateful April night. And here at the same time was visiting Dorothy Quincy, John Hancock's dashing and brilliant fiancee, whom he married the following August R. 15 3. GREENFIELD TO BOSTON 429 at Fairfield (p 85). Hancock and Adams had a price upon their heads and a guard of minute men had been posted about the house to protect them from surprise. As Paul Revere dashed up to warn the proscribed patriots "it was one by the village clock." The guard cautioned him about making so much noise, lest he waken the sleepers. "Noise!" roared Revere. "You'll have noise enough before long. The red- coats are corning." Hancock and Adams were hustled off to the old Parsonage in Burlington and later to Billerica. Han- cock sent back a note to Dorothy requesting her to follow them and bring the fine salmon that had been sent them for their dinner, which she accordingly did. Passing the Library, on the right, and the Town Hall, on the left, and the famous but now obsolescent "Keeley Cure," on the grounds of the High School is an ugly stone cannon. This marks the position of one of the two fieldpieces which Earl Percy planted to protect his retreat. Across the road, further on, a tablet marks the position of the second. The Munroe Tavern, shaded by firje old trees, was erected, as the tablet informs us, in 1695 by William Munroe. When Earl Percy reached Lexington with re-enforcements, 1500 strong, on the afternoon of April 19, he made this old hostelry his headquarters and here the wounded were treated. In the ceiling of the bar-room at the right of the entrance is a hole made by a British bullet. The landlord in 1775 was one of the fifteen Munroes who shared in the fighting, and as orderly sergeant he lined up the seventy yeomen on the Green in the dawn. This building was a well-patronized inn for 163 years. Closed to the public in 1858, in 1910 it came by bequest into the hands of the Lexington Historical Society and now con- tains interesting Revolutionary relics. (Open to the public.) It was in 1641 that Robert Harlakenden built the first house in Cambridge Farms, as this region was then known. The first set- tlement was near Vine Brook. The town was later named by Gov- ernor Dudley for Lord Lexington, an ancient nobleman of prominence at that time. Lexington, Ky., was named by its pioneer settlers in I77S "in honor of that glorious field where the rebels of Massachu- setts had died but a few weeks before, resisting the encroachments of their king." Aside from the events of April ig little that is momen- tous has happened in Lexington. Theodore Parker, scholar, liberal thinker, and ardent abolitionist, is Lexington's most famous son. The site of the house on Spring St., off the Waltham Road, where he was born in 1810 is now marked by a granite monument. Lexington in June, 1915, staged a great historical pageant to cele- brate a century of lasting peace between England and America. In the outdoor amphitheater at Twin Elms were reviewed the events in the history of the town, before audiences of 8000. From Lexington to Cambridge tablet after tablet along the wayside records every incident of that running fight in which 430 LEXINGTON BOSTON 73 of the British were killed, 174 wounded, and 26 taken pris- oners. At the corner of Massachusetts Ave. and Pleasant St. a tablet commemorates: "Benjamin Wellington/ A minute man/ was surprised by British/ scouts and disarmed./ With undaunted courage/ he borrowed another gun and/ hastened to join his comrades/ on Lexington Green." In East Lexington a tablet marks the site of the house where to the age of 96 lived Jonathan Harrington, the son of that other Jonathan, who was mortally wounded and died on his threshold. Though but sixteen this younger Jonathan blew the fife for that early morning line-up on the Green. To the left as we approach Arlington a new State Highway, for which the town of Arlington gave the land, cuts across the fields, avoiding the center of the town, and joins the Mystic Parkway (R. 34). At Arlington Heights is the home of Cyrus Dallin, the sculptor who came out of the West, and who has idealized the life and spirit of the Indian. His best known works in New England are the "Indian Hunter," at Arlington, and the "Appeal to the Great Spirit," which stands before the Boston Museum of Fine Arts. 91.0 ARLINGTON. 46ft. Pop (twp) 11,187 (1910), 14,889 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1867. Indian name Menotomy. Mfg. leather; market-gardening. Opposite the Town Hall and the Robbins Library, an at- tractive civic center, Route 21 enters from Belmont and Wal- tham, on Pleasant St. At Cooper's Tavern the road sharp to the left, with blue markers, follows the route of Paul Revere's ride through Medford, used by Route 27 to Billerica and Lowell. This road also leads to the North Shore, avoiding Boston and Cambridge. A tablet marks the site of the Black Horse Tav- ern, where Orne, Lee, and Gerry (p 634), Marblehead's Com- mittee of Safety, spent the night before the Lexington-Concord Fight, fleeing into hiding in the cornfield behind the inn when the arrival of the British forces was announced. Massachusetts Avenue leads on through CAMBRIDGE (p 464) , Harvard Square, and across Harvard Bridge to 98.5 BOSTON (R. 20, p 453). R. 16. PROVIDENCE to PLYMOUTH. 44.5 m. Via TAUNTON and MIDDLEBORO. This important crossroad is City or State Highway, mostly macadam, in good condition and being improved from year to year. From City Hall, Providence, the route runs east be- tween the Fire Station and the Post Office, up Waterman St., passing Brown University and crossing the Seekonk river by the old iron drawbridge to East Providence (2.5; p 439). At the watering trough at Broadway Six Corners bear left on Taunton Ave., a good macadam road. The State line (3.5) is marked by a monument. Beyond East Providence we pass Hunts Mills, a popular canoeing resort on Ten Mile River, a little stream noted for its idyllic scenery. It was formerly the boundary line between Providence County in Rhode Island and Bristol County in Massachusetts. From this point the route is marked by yellow bands on telephone poles and fence posts at intersecting roads and other points of doubt. 9.0 REHOBOTH. Pop (twp) 2001 (1910), 2222 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1642. Indian name Seconet. Rehoboth, today a quiet agricultural community, is the old- est settlement in this vicinity except Providence, and is the mother town of Pawtucket and the Attleboros which long since completely eclipsed it. Attleboro was set off from Rehoboth as early as 1694, and from it in 1812 sprang the little town of Seekonk and a part of Pawtucket. Here Darius Goff estab- lished the great plush and braid works which attained a more than national importance, now situated in Pawtucket. The Goff estate in Rehoboth has been in the family since 1716 and has never been deeded. The Hornbine Meeting House of the Six-Principle Baptist sect established here about 1750 is famous for its yearly func- tion, a quaint survival of an early Colonial festival, ever more popular and profitable, the 'old home' day, a gathering of the neighbors and hand-shaking politicians repairing their political fences. The Museum of the Rehoboth Historical Society contains King Philip's kettle and other interesting relics. It has been very largely paid for by the proceeds of annual clambakes. Leaving the village of Rehoboth, with the church on the right, the route, a macadam road, bears left and again joins the trolley, running straight across country. About two miles from Rehoboth on the right, a few rods south of the Turnpike, is Anawan's Rock, where Captain Church captured Anawan, (431) 432 REHOBOTH PLYMOUTH King Philip's intrepid aide and counselor, whose stronghold was in the Squannakonk Swamp, a mile to the south. North of the Rock is Great Meadow Hill (266 ft) with a watch-tower used by the State Fire Warden in the summer and fall. Just beyond Westville (16.0), an outlying village of Taunton, we cross Three Mile River, a picturesque stream. The State Road enters Winthrop St., curving right into Main St. and crossing Route 32, from Boston to Newport. 18.5 TAUNTON (R. 32). From the City Hall, Taunton, the route follows Summer St. over the Taunton river, following the yellow bands on the tele- graph poles with the trolley through to Harts Corners (20.3), where we bear left and cross the Cottey river and R.R., a mile beyond, into East Taunton (24.5). The route passes straight through the village. To the north is the Taunton river. Recrossing R.R., cross Poquoy Trout Brook and pass through Center St., crossing Wareham St. and Route 31, from Boston to Woods Hole and Chatham, marked with blue bands. 29.5 MIDDLEBORO (R.31). Note. From Middleboro, an excellent State Road leads south through the heart of the Massasoit country to Lakeville on Assawompset Pond, the largest in Massachusetts. The yellow-marked route passes the Post Office on the left, and turns left on North Main St., then right on East Main St., crossing the Namasket river. The road lies straight ahead to the five corners called Middleboro Green (31.5). Assawompset was the name applied to all this lake and swamp region round about, Namasket, "a place of fish," being the name of the site occupied by the town. To the north is Meeting House Swamp and to the south Woods Pond, and Shorts, Woods, and Stony Brooks, all of which flow into Tispaquin Pond, three miles to the south. The route crosses the square diag- onally and bears slightly left with yellow markers. Note. The Plymouth road leads through Waterville (34.5) and North Carver (36.5). Three miles to the south is the principal village of Carver, where the first iron tea kettle made in America was cast, about 1762, when the town attained some prominence through the excellence of its hollow iron ware. The road bears sharp left and right just beyond, crossing Stony Brook. Nearing Plymouth, Little Pond and Billington Sea are seen on the south. The road follows Town Brook and enters Summer St., joining Route 30 at PLYMOUTH (44.5). The route marked by yellow bands continues northward past the villages of Eddyville and Wenatuxit to R. 1 6. PROVIDENCE TO PLYMOUTH 433 37.0 PLYMPTON. Alt 100 ft. Pop (twp) 561 (1910), 599 (1915). Plymouth Co. Inc. 1707. Mfg. thread and boxes. The route keeps straight on northward to the hamlet of North Plympton (39.5), where it turns right, with the yellow markers, joining Route 30, from Boston to Plymouth and Provincetown, at 42 KINGSTON (R. 30, p 538). 44.5. PLYMOUTH. THE RHODE ISLAND REGION R. 17. PROVIDENCE to BUZZARDS BAY. 50 5 m. Via FALL RIVER and NEW BEDFORD. This route affords an important connecting link between Providence, the southern Massachusetts cities, and the routes to the Cape. For eight months in the year, when the Bristol Ferry is not running, the only route from Providence to New- port is this by way of Fall River. The route is nearly all macadam State Road, with red markers from Fall River. From Exchange Place, Providence, follow Route 16 to the Six Corners in East Providence (2.5). Jog right and left around small iron water trough into Waterman Ave., following trolley. 4.5 SEEKONK. Pop (twp) 2397 (1910), 2762 (1915). Bristol Co. Indian name, "wild goose." Miss Wheeler's School for girls of Providence has a i2O-acre farm here to which the girls resort for week-ends. About a mile beyond Luthers Corners (12.7) are the greenhouses and ex- tensive truck gardens of David S. Peck. Further on is the Monroe Tavern, an old coaching hostelry. 15.0 SWANSEA. Pop 1978 (1910), 2556 (1915). Inc. 1668. Swansea village is known as one of the most beautiful in this section of New England. The Frank S. Stevens School, the Town Hall, the Library, and Christ Church (Episcopal), named in the order of location, are all gifts of the late Frank S. Stevens and Mrs. Stevens, whose mansion is on the right, nearly opposite the church. On the hill east of the village is Rest House, given by Mrs. Stevens to the Diocese of Massa- chusetts for the benefit of the clergy and church workers. The fine old meeting house stands on the site of the first edifice (1682). For 107 consecutive years the pastorate was filled by a son and grandson of Samson Mason, a soldier under Crom- well, who settled nearby at Rehoboth. Gardners Neck, which extends southward into Mt. Hope Bay, has some ancient farms and also summer cottages. The route turns right with the trolley to Fall River. Just before reaching the Taunton river, it joins Route 32, from Boston to Newport, into 19.5. FALL RIVER (R. 32). From the City Hall, the route runs east on Pleasant St., along the course of the Quequechan river, through Flint Village, a manufacturing suburb with numerous cotton factories, and crosses the narrow causeway, following the red markers, be- tween the two Watuppa Ponds. The upper pond is of excep- tionally pure water, fed by springs, and furnishes the water supply as well as power for the mills. From here, the high- (434) R. 17. PROVIDENCE TO BUZZARDS BAY 435 way runs straight, passing on the right Lincoln Park, an amuse- ment resort, to Westport Factory (26.5), which lies at the head of the deep estuary, Westport River. At the mouth of the estu- ary is Horse Neck Beach with great wliite sand dunes and the summer resort of Acoaxet. The inferior soil of this region has been made to yield for centuries large crops of corn, when fertilized in the Indian manner with menhaden, great quan- tities of which are caught in these inlets. The route, marked red, turns slightly to the left and runs almost directly east to the village of North Dartmouth (29.5). About five miles south is the old town of DARTMOUTH. Pop (twp) 4378 (1910), 5311 (1915). Settled 1650. In 1650 two settlers from Taunton set up a forge at Rus- sell's Mills. Two years later a great tract of land here was sold to the Pilgrims by Massasoit and his son Wamsutta. Dart- mouth thus became one of the earliest settlements on the shores of Buzzards Bay, and almost from its beginning was a strong- hold of the Quakers. It received its name from the English port where the "Mayflower" put back for repairs. These early settlers gave Buzzards Bay its name on account of the abundance of buzzardets or fish-hawks in this region. The Indian name of the region, Apponaganset, is preserved in the name of one of the villages near the coast. 32.5 NEW BEDFORD. Pop 96,652 (1910), 105,000 (1915); one third foreign-born, chiefly French Canadians and Portu- guese. County-seat of Bristol Co. Settled 1652. Port of Entry . fishing and whaling interests; coal distributing center. Mfg. cotton goods and yarns, silk and woolens, twist drills, leather, cordage, glass, paper, soap, candles, silver- ware, shoes, screws, whale oils, chairs, and eyelets. Fre- quent steamers in season to the Elizabeth Islands, Woods Hole, Marthas Vineyard, and Nantucket; direct packet service to the Cape Verde Islands, and the Azores. New Bedford is an attractively situated city on land rising from its commodious harbor at the mouth of the Acushnet river and overlooking Buzzards Bay. It is a great cotton-mill town, second in the number of spindles in the United States, and first in the manufacture of fine cotton goods and yarns. The humid climate makes possible the spinning of the finest cotton yarns at the least expense, and to this is largely due the supremacy of New Bedford in the making of fine cotton goods. The Wamsutta Mills are the most extensive, but the weaving shed of the Nashewena Mills is the largest weaving plant under one roof in the world. There are 65 cotton and yarn mills, operating 3,000,000 spindles, about 10 per cent of the whole number in the United States. Over 50,000 looms produce more fine cotton goods than are produced in any other city in 436 NEW BEDFORD MATTAPOISETT the country. The mills use about 300,000 bales of cotton per year. Twist drills were originated at the Morse plant here and from that shop have sprung all the other concerns in the country engaged in making twist drills. In the palmy days of whaling before the Civil War over 300 vessels were registered from this port and 10,000 hands were employed. New Bedford is a well-built town, but its modern buildings and monuments have no especial interest for the tourist. The harbor and docks present a busy scene and are worth visiting. An interesting drive along the harbor front, affording fine views, leads to Fort Rodman, a stone fort erected during the Civil War with modern fortifications. New Bedford is one of the twenty-six places reported by the United States Chief of Engineers in 1909 as having "permanent coast defences." The older portion of the town, especially County Street, still contains a number of stately old residences of the local marine aristocracy. A century ago these mansions caused Lady Wortley to call New Bedford "a city of palaces." South of New Bedford is the pleasant little village of Non- quit, a favorite summering place. General 'Phil' Sheridan of Civil War fame died here, and it was the summer home for many years of Louisa M. Alcott. Walter Ricketson, the sculp- tor, had a studio in the village, and it is still a resort of artists. Bartholomew Gosnold visited the site of New Bedford in 1602, trad- ing with the Indians at the mouth of the Acushnet. New Bedford was settled from the old Quaker town of Dartmouth to the southwest, and called Bedford after Joseph Russell, one of the founders, whose family name was that of the Dukes of Bedford. Later, the name was changed to 'New' Bedford to distinguish it from the town of Bedford in Middlesex County. The Quaker element has always been impor- tant in New Bedford and prominent in its affairs. During the Revolution, the harbor became a rendezvous for Ameri- can privateers. On Sept. 5, 1778, the English fleet under Earl Grey made a disastrous attack, burning more than seventy ships. Major John Andre marched up County St. and burned a number of the dwell- ings of the aristocracy and nearly destroyed the town. The whaling industry was established here in 1765 by Joseph Rotch of Nantucket. By 1804 fifty-nine whalers registered from New Bed- ford and in 1845 it was the fourth port of the United States in regis- tered tonnage. The climax of whaling came in 1850 when 329 vessels were registered from the port, representing an investment of $1 2,000,000 and employing 10,000 hands. The Civil War was a great blow to the industry. The Confederates sunk more than twenty-five vessels and the Federal Government purchased many of the ships to be filled with stones and sunk at harbor mouths. About that time petroleum suc- ceeded whale oil to a large 1 extent. Then followed losses of vessels in the Arctic ice in 1871 and 1878. The industry has struggled on, however, and in ioog there were thirteen steamers and six other ves- sels employed, chiefly in sperm whaling, aggregating a tonnage of 4710. In 1908 the product was valued at $350,000; in 10,11, $268,000. Sometimes one of the old whaling ships is to be found in the harbor and a visit will prove interesting to those not too susceptible to odors. R. 17. PROVIDENCE TO BUZZARDS BAY 437 The enormous cotton industry dates from 1847 when Joseph Grinnell established his mill of 15,000 spindles and 200 looms. Other articles manufactured here include tools, cordage, woolen and silk goods and paints. Almost the entire product of hlackfish oil (derived from a species of small whale, and by sailors called "porpoise jaw oil"), a lubricant for clocks and watches, is manufactured here. One of the oldest of American papers continuously published, the "Mercury," was long edited here by William Ellery Channing. The Free Public Library, one of the oldest in the United States, dates from 1852 and contains valuable collections on whaling and Quakers. The Old Dartmouth Historical Society contains a most interesting collec- tion of material associated with the early history of Old Dartmouth, and a collection of whaling material. The route from Providence passes through New Bedford on Mill St., turns right on Pleasant St., left into Middle St., downgrade, and crossing the river. The bridges command a fine view down the harbor with great mills lining the water- front. On the islands which the bridge crosses is the clock-oil factory of William F. Nye. 34.5 FAIRHAVEN. Pop (twp) 5122 (1910), 6212 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. tacks. Fairhaven, on the eastern bank of the Acushnet river oppo- site New Bedford, is a quiet town with handsome elm-arched streets and some fine century-old houses. It boasts the larg- est tack factory in the world. Henry H. Rogers (1840-1909), of Standard Oil fame, was the town's most famous native and most liberal benefactor. His gifts include a church and a high school each said to have cost over a million dollars, a town hall, the Millicent Library named for his daughter, and the Tabitha Inn named for his grandmother. In all, his gifts aggregated about $4,000,000. On account of its picturesque environs, Fairhaven was a favorite resort of the artists Bierstadt, R. Swain Gifford, and others. Frederick A. Delano, of the Federal Reserve Board, and formerly president of the Wabash R.R., has an ancestral estate here and is an occasional summer resident. At the southern end of the town is Fort Phoenix, a crum- bling Revolutionary battery, commanding a splendid view of the harbor of New Bedford. The estate of Henry H. Rogers, now dismantled, lines both sides of the road to the fort. The route leaves Fairhaven with the trolley, with occasional views of Buzzards Bay, following the red markers to 39.S MATTAPOISETT. Pop (twp) 1233 (1910), 1352 (1915). Plym- outh Co. Inc. 1857. Indian name, "place of rest." Mfg. peanut roasters and poultry supplies; cranberries. Mattapoisett, now a prosperous summer colony, was for- merly an important shipbuilding center. On the property of the late Edward Atkinson, the noted statistician, is one of the largest boulders in New England, forty-two feet high and 438 MATTAPOISETT WAREHAM thirty-six feet across, a fragment of the White Mountains de- posited here by the glaciers. Mattapoisett was the birthplace of Mrs. Richard Henry Stoddard and here was the scene of her novel "The Morgesons" (1862). The route continues over rolling country with views of Buzzards Bay. A detour to the right skirting Angelica Point and Aucoot Cove may be made with a few miles' additional travel. This passes several of the more pretentious summer estates and affords excellent views of the Bay. 45.0 MARION. Pop (twp) 1460 (1910), 1470 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1680. Indian name Sippican. Marion has become perhaps the most fashionable resort on Buzzards Bay and a number of extensive estates have come into being here during the last decade. The quaint old fishing village of Marion lies at the head of Sippican Harbor, while the summer estates border both sides of its picturesquely wooded shores. The summer colony is made up of families from Boston and other large cities as far west as St. Louis. On the western side of the harbor is the estate of Harry Converse of rubber fame. At the end of Blake Point is the Beverly Yacht Club, one of the prominent New England yachting centers, formerly at Pocasset. Frequent regattas are held here during the season and the club house is a social center. It is the headquarters of Buzzards Bay racing. On Sippican Neck which forms the eastern side of the harbor are the modern and extensive estates. Among the older are the Shepley, Coolidge, and Nagel places, while near Great Neck is the Galen Stone estate, the show place of Marion. The route connects with Route 31 at 50.5 WAREHAM (R. 31, p 559). R. 18. PROVIDENCE to NEWPORT. 28.5 m. Via BRISTOL FERRY. This route, open only in summer, is the most attractive one to Newport. In winter, when the Bristol Ferry is not running, the alternative route via Fall River must be taken. The sail to Newport down Narragansett Bay is very attractive. From Exchange Place cross Market Square, turning right on South Main St. Fork left (0.8) and turn square left at next corner. At the corner of the park (1.3) turn right and then left, crossing Washington Bridge over the Seekonk river to Watche- moket Square. 2.0 EAST PROVIDENCE. Pop (twp) 17,369 (1910), 18,584 (19/5). Mfg. handkerchiefs, wire, electrical goods, dyes, chemicals, paper and cotton; drydock and marine railway; oysters. East Providence is a populous manufacturing suburb of Providence, separated from the latter by the Seekonk river. Bear right on Warren Ave. and right, into Barrington Park- way, over Fort Hill. The Parkway commands fine views of the harbor and bay. Join Pawtucket Ave. (4.5) and bear left at fork (5.3), on Willett Ave. into Pecks Corner (7.5). Note. For a detour, five miles longer, along the bay to lovely Nayatt Point, R. I. Country Club, and Rumstick Point, keep right from Pecks Corner, on Washington Road, past West Barrington R.R. crossing (8.4) and Nayatt Bridge (9.3). Turn right (9.4), curving left on tree-arched road around Nayatt Point (9.7). Straight on past R. I. Country Club (10.2). Turn right into Bay Road (11.2), left at group of large buildings (11.5) into Chachapacasset Road. Turn right (11.9) into Rumstick Road. Rumstick Point (12.8) end of good road. Turn around. Turn right (13.7) and immediately left. Turn right (14.0) into Ferry Lane; left (14.7) into Mathewson Road along river past Barrington Yacht Club (15.3). Turn right (15.5) across Barrington river bridge, re- joining main route. From Pecks Corner the main route turns square left then right, along the river, crossing R.R. at Barrington Station (10.0), then left with trolley into 11.5 WARREN. Pop (twp) 6585 (1910), 7241 (1915). Bristol Co. Mfg. cotton goods. Warren is a pleasant old town beautifully situated on the Warren river in the midst of a rich, undulating farming coun- try. It was a prosperous seaport in the early days, and there are a few interesting old houses here. Massasoit's favorite dwelling is said to have been here near a spring which is called after him. For a long time after its (439) 440 WARREN BRISTOL settlement this town was a part of Swansea in Massachusetts, but in 1746 it was incorporated as a separate town with its pres- ent name. A century ago the docks and warehouses were crowded and the harbor filled with shipping, but the commer- cial importance declined with that of Providence. The route continues south across the boundary between the towns of Warren and Bristol. It passes some fine old Colonial houses, among them that of Captain James De Wolf, built in 1803. De Wolf was the master spirit in Bristol during its prosperous seafaring days. His ships were on every sea and he was a political leader as well. Note. At white marble gates (14.5) beyond cemetery, a road leads to the magnificent shore drive on Popasquash Neck, a detour of four miles worth taking. A sign in big, bold letters reads, "Colt's Farm, Private Property, Public Wel- come." "It is," says Elbert Hubbard, "a farm of four hun- dred acres, with two miles of waterfront, where you can fish, shoot ducks or dig clams. If one crop fails, others make good. It is a park and playground for all of the people. So here we get a farm that is more than a farm. The barn alone cost one hundred thousand dollars. It houses a herd of perhaps a hundred registered Jersey cattle. It is a lovely herd of cattle all right, but there are some of the cows that are old enough to vote." On the Neck is Hey-Bonnie Hall, the De Wolf-Middleton house of 1808, beautiful and simple in its proportions, with noble columns flanking the front entrance. 16.5 BRISTOL. Pop (twp) 9272 (1910), 10,302 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1680. Port of Entry. Mfg. rubber goods, woolen and worsteds; shipyards and market gardens. Bristol is a quaint old shipbuilding town, dignified and mel- lowed with age, nestling calmly under its elms. Situated on rising land overlooking its safe and spacious harbor which is protected by high hills and Hog Island at its mouth, Bristol is still famous as the birthplace of the Herreshoffs, known to all interested in yachting, and for its fine old Colonial houses. The impairment of Newport's prosperity in the Revolution and War of 1812 resulted in a boom for Bristol, and Bristol ship-owners far outstripped in wealth the early merchant princes of Newport. Edward Everett Hale in his "Tarry at Home Travels" says: "Do not by any means neglect to go to Bristol quaint, old-fash- ioned, historic and beautiful. You see there were days when the maritime commerce of Bristol was, I think, quite equal to that of New York; certainly in advance over that of Boston to hold Narragansett Bay was the ambition of the English commanders through the Revo- lution, and there is many a Revolutionary story, now of battle, now of adventure, now of intrigue, of these waters and of these shores. . . . R. 1 8. PROVIDENCE TO NEWPORT 441 It was the Bristol slave traders whom Mr. Webster rebuked in his Plymouth address of 1820. 1808 marked the year when the slave trade was prohibited almost of course by Congress. But the shackles were still forged in Bristol County in Massachusetts, and the shackles went from Bristol in Rhode Island to the West African shore." On Hope St., by which we enter Bristol, is the Maurice house, of fine proportions, with an especially beautiful doorway and cornice. Opposite is the Churchill house built by Captain Churchill of the famous privateer "Yankee," who was perhaps the most successful freebooter of his time. Above the cornice is the "Bristol parapet rail" with American eagles perched on each corner, carved by sailors of the War of 1812. The architectural distinction of Bristol's houses is largely due to the taste of Russell Warren, whose work is well exemplified THE DE WOLF-COLT MANSION, DESIGNED BY RUSSELL WARREN in the De Wolf-Colt mansion, also on Hope St., one of the most beautiful residential structures in -New England. The front door, flanked with side lights and surmounted by a fan- light and another window, with leaded panes, is a notable arrangement of Corinthian beauty. The roof of the portico with its stately fluted columns and carved acanthus leaves sets off the stately dignity of this architectural style. It is now the residence of Colonel Colt and is called Linden Place. Colonel Colt has done much for the town of Bristol. The Colt Memorial School, a memorial to his mother, cost $300,000. Adjoining the school is the Museum of Fine Arts, also the gift of Colonel Colt. The rubber business in Bristol began in the sixties and went into the hands of a receiver in 1887. 442 BRISTOL NEWPORT Out of this bankrupt beginning, Colonel Colt in a few years created the United States Rubber Company, which has a capi- talization of $100,000,000, and owns rubber plantations all through the Far East, including 100,000 acres in Sumatra. The Bristol plant makes tennis shoes and insulated wire. The Herreshoff Manufacturing Company is the formal title of the famous yacht builders. It is a partnership of John B. F. and his brother Captain Nat. There were seven brothers in the family and three of them are blind, not that they were born so, but for some unaccountable reason blindness over- took each at the age of fourteen. Before that, however, John began whittling boats as soon as he could handle a jack-knife, and before he became blind he had built a yacht with which he sailed the Narragansett Bay. Total blindness did not seem to have affected in any way his intrepid spirit. He continued to design and sail boats and at the age of twenty-five saved money enough to establish a boatbuilding plant, and later joined in partnership with his youngest brother. These two have turned out an incredible number of sailing boats, commercial vessels, and torpedo boats for private concerns, the United States, and foreign governments. Their shipyards are the birthplace of most of our fastest and famous yachts, the "Stiletto," "Vamoose," "Navahoe," "Say When," and "Now Then." Here in '93 were built the famous cup defenders "Vigilant," and later the "Defender," "Co- lumbia," and "Reliance," and a long line of yachts that have continued to keep the America's Cup on this side of the Atlan- tic. Edward Burgess was their only rival in yacht-building and since his death in '91, the Herreshoff s have been supreme. The Herreshoffs married into the wealthy old Quaker family of the Browns, who like the Herreshoffs had lived for generations in Rhode Island. Captain Nat Herreshoff, designer of the "Defender," lives in the spacious house at the foot of Hope St. John B., his partner, died in July, 1915, at the age of seventy- four. He had not limited his multifarious activities, and had built and owned the best hotel, the Belvedere, in the town. General Burnside of Civil War fame was a resident of Bristol, and a memorial building commemorates him. Its hall con- tains Colonial, Indian, and Civil War relics. Mt. Hope, the abode of King Philip, is a mile east of Bristol on Mt. Hope Bay. Bristol Ferry is a steam ferry, leaving hourly, Sundays in- cluded; automobiles, 75 cts. to $i. From Bristol Ferry Land- ing on the island of Aquidneck, the route turns left with trolley (19.5), joining Route 32 from Fall River. 28.5 NEWPORT (R. 32, p 585). R. 19. PROVIDENCE to VERMONT. 230.5 m. Via WOONSOCKET, WORCESTER, ATHOL, NORTHFIELD, BRATTLEBORO, MANCHESTER, and TICONDEROGA. This route traverses New England diagonally from Provi- dence northwestward. Its sections combine to advantage with other routes to make up complete tours. Through Rhode Island the route follows State highways of waterbound and bituminous macadam. Through Massachusetts to Athol it follows a State Highway marked continuously by yellow bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. From Athol to West Gardner it follows Route 15, marked by red bands. Sections of State Highway and dirt and gravel roads lead to Northfield whence it follows Route 10 to Brattleboro. From Brattleboro to Manchester the road is a Vermont trunk line highway with some heavy grades. From Manchester through Pawlet and Poultney to the New York line the route traverses town and country roads of dirt and gravel construction. R. 19 1. Providence to Worcester. 44 m. The route follows the valley of the Blackstone almost con- tinuously to Worcester. This river, which falls about 400 feet in its course of 45 miles, is perhaps the most completely harnessed river in the country, turning over 300 mill wheels and developing over 31,000 h.p. in more than 100 mills. This power if produced from coal would cost annually 4 per cent on something over $25,000,000. More than half the waterpower of the Blackstone goes to waste in ordinary times for lack of storage facilities, and the mills supplement the waterpower with steam. The cotton-mill towns along the course are inter- esting industrially, but usually grimy and slummy in appear- ance, with a large foreign element. Leaving Providence by Francis St., under the Union Sta- tion, we turn right on Gaspee St. into North Main and Paw- tucket Ave., through the 'Ghetto' the most ancient section of the city. On the outskirts of Pawtucket (2.5) at the five crossroads and the watering trough turn left on Main St., continuing on Lonsdale Ave. through the western outskirts of Pawtucket (p 194) and J.5 CENTRAL FALLS. Pop 22,754 (1910), 23,708 (1915); mostly French Canadians. This busy overcrowded little city occupies less than a square mile and is the most densely populated in Rhode Island. Emerging from this congested district, bear right at next fork (5.0). On the left is the great bleachery of Saylesville (443) 444 CENTRAL FALLS WORCESTER and to the west across the Moshassuck valley are the Lincoln Woods, a natural park and forest reservation of nearly 500 acres occupying a rocky and beautifully diversified region about Olney Pond. Bearing right, the route passes Scott's Pond on the west and the broad waters of Valley Falls Pond on the east, through the ' Old Village ' of Lonsdale in the town of Lincoln. Crossing a curious old wooden bridge over the Blackstone river, the State Road goes through (6.0) Lonsdale, the 'New Village,' in the town of Cumberland. This cotton-mill village is famous for its fine cambrics that have been made here for upwards of a century. Here is the grave of and a monument to William Blaxton, better known as Blackstone, the eccentric hermit of Shawmut, who, fleeing the multitude of settlers, in 1634, sold his land and with the money bought a stock of cows, traveling through the wilderness to a place called the Gore, now Cumberland, R.I. The site of Blackstone's house is marked by a granite block surrounded by massive mills. In the orchards he planted were raised the first apples in what is now Rhode Island, and, as he rode about the country on his tame cream-colored bull, he carried the fruit in his pockets to give to the children. His name has been given to the river and the town beyond. The route follows the Mendon Road, through the outskirts of a nearly continuous string of prosperous-looking mill vil- lages. The principal one of these is 8.5 ASHTON. Alt 93 ft. Pop (Cumberland twp) 9929 (1915). Providence Co. Settled 1634. The valley of the Blackstone from here on is narrow, with the hills rising on either side from 200 to 300 feet. The road runs along the ridge of Cumberland Hill, at an elevation of over 300 feet above the valley and gradually descends into the outskirts of Woonsocket. Turning to the left we cross the Blackstone river, then go over the big bridge at Hamlet Ave., meeting Route 3, from New York and Hartford to Boston. 16.0 WOONSOCKET (R. 3, p 217). Turn right on Main St. to Monument Square. Social Street (Route 3) leads straight ahead to Boston. Turn square left on Blackstone St. over R.R. Between Woonsocket and Black- stone the route crosses the State line and thence is clearly marked by the Massachusetts Highway Commission with yellow bands on telegraph poles and fence posts. 17.5 BLACKSTONE. Alt 214 ft. Pop (twp) 5648 (1910), 56S9 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1700. Mfg. rubber boots and shoes, felt, and cotton. Here are important cotton, woolen, and rubber mills. Power R. 19 2. WORCESTER TO BRATTLEBORO 445 is supplied in addition to the Blackstone by a number .of streams which tumble down from the hills. Fox Brook flows through the town from its source north of Waterbug Hill. The town bears the name of William Blackstone, above men- tioned, first settler on the site of Boston. The route continues through Millville (20.5), where there is a rubber-boot plant. 24,5 UXBRIDGE. Alt 259 ft. Pop (twp) 4671 (1910), 4921 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1727. Indian name Wacuntug. Mfg. woolens and worsteds, cotton, granite, Uxbridge was detached from Mendon, the mother town to the north, in 1727 and was named in honor of Henry Paget, Earl of Uxbridge. It was the birthplace of Ex-president Will- iam H. Taft's grandfather, Peter Ranson Taft. The original house is not standing, but the farm is shown. There is also an old inn where Washington stayed overnight. From Uxbridge continue straight ahead to Linwood (26.0). Note. The road straight ahead leads through Whitinsville (26.5), named for the Whitin family who established the fa- mous cotton machinery plant here. The Whitin Corporation has made itself notable for the inauguration of advanced living conditions and model villages for its employees. From Whit- insville the road turns right over R.R. and then left with the trolley, joining the main route at Northbridge (30.0). From Linwood the State Road turns to the right, following the valley of the Blackstone, and the yellow bands through 30.5 NORTHBRIDGE. Alt 284 ft. Pop (twp) 8807 (1910), 9254 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1772. Mfg. cotton, foundry and machine-shop products. Northbridge has valuable waterpower derived from the Blackstone and Mumford rivers. We continue north through Farnumsville (33.0), where the lefthand road leads through the textile town of Millbury, in therBlackstone valley, to Worcester (44.0). The main route, with yellow markers, passes through Graf- ton (36.0) on Route 24 and over the hills, crossing Route i at 44.0 WORCESTER (R.l,pl36). R. 19 2. Worcester to Brattleboro. 74 5 m. Via ATHOL and NORTHFIELD. This route leads across the eastern hill country of Massa- chusetts through some of the more interesting hill towns, a few of which have, remained remote and little changed for generations. From Worcester to West Rutland two routes 446 WORCESTER PETERSHAM are available, the State Road, marked by yellow bands, through Holden, and a shorter route past theTatnuck Country Club, to Paxton. Note. From City Hall the shorter route turns west on Pleasant St. past Elm Park on the right. Climbing a rather seep hill (3.5),- we descend into the hamlet of Tatnuck, with a cloth mill, in the valley of Tatnuck Brook. Beyond on the slope of Tatnuck Hill is the Tatnuck Country Club. On the slope of the hill to the north of the village are remains of a stone Tory fort, built at the opening of the Revolution, reached by Tatnuck Lane, a romantic path through the mead- ows and woods. On the route before entering Paxton is Asnebumskit Hill (1300 ft). 8.0 PAXTON. Alt 1100 ft. Pop (twp) 416 (1910), 471 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1765. The town is named for Charles Paxton, one of the Colonial commissioners of customs of Boston. Keep to the left through the village; the righthand roads lead to Rutland. Just beyond West Rutland (14.0), the road joins the State Road through Holden and Rutland. The route via Holden leaves from the City Hall by Main St. and Grove St. to the west of Indian Lake or North Pond. Following the State Road, marked with yellow bands on the telegraph poles and fence posts, we enter 7.0 HOLDEN. Alt 762 ft. Pop (twp) 2147 (1910), 2514 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1740. Mfg. leather, woolens and worsteds. The town was named for the Hon. Samuel Holden, director of the Bank of England, whose family name is also honored in Holden Chapel at Harvard University. The State Road continues through Eagleville to 13.5 RUTLAND. Alt 1200 ft. Pop (twp) 1743 (1910), 1895 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1713. Indian name Naquag. Mfg. woolen and worsted goods. The town is the highest in Massachusetts east of the Con- necticut and stands on a hill overlooking a vast basin. This basin has been called 'The Cradle of Ohio,' for it was from the early settlers here that Rufus Putnam in 1787 gathered to- gether the little company that went forth to found the first settlement in Ohio. In the valley 200 feet below the town the Massachusetts Central R.R. reaches the highest point in its course through the State, 1001 feet. On a hillside to the southeast of the town is the State Consumptive Hospital and an outdoor camp for prisoners suffering from consumption. At the foot of the hill to the west stands the old Rufus Putnam house, substantial and four-square. It is now the R. 19 2. WORCESTER TO BRATTLEBORO 447 headquarters of the Rutland Historical Society, and at a dedi- cation to the purpose in 1894 speeches were made by Senator Hoar and Edward Everett Hale. A bronze tablet placed upon the house in 1898 by the Sons of the Revolution tells the interesting story of Rufus Putnam's life and achievements. Rufus Putnam (1738-1824), of the Putnam family of Danvers (R. 37) and a cousin of General Israel Putnam (p 75), was born in the town of Sutton, south of Worcester. He served with distinction in the French and Indian and in the Revolutionary Wars. In 1780 he bought a confiscated Tory farm at Rutland and six years later founded the Ohio Company of Associates for the settlement of western lands. In 1788 he led the small party of Rutland and Danvers people which founded Marietta, Ohio. He is thus called 'The Father of Ohio.' In the northern part of the town Judge Sewall had a farm of 1000 acres, and he gave the sacramental vessels to the church. The Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company had a grant of 500 acres here. During the Revolution a large detachment of Burgoyne's army was quartered here after their surrender at Saratoga. The prisoners' barracks stood for half a century in a field to the south of the Putnam house, and the well dug by the soldiers is still shown. Three of the officers fell in love with Rutland girls and took them back to England as their wives. The story of Betsy, whose girlhood was passed in a Rutland shanty, is most romantic. She married in New York a wealthy Frenchman, Stephen Jumel, and when left a widow married for second choice Aaron Burr. This region was deeded by the Indians in 1686. The town was named on its incorporation, 1713, from Rutland, the smallest county in England. In 1723 Deacon Meadows and his four sons while making hay in the meadow, a little way from where the meeting house now stands, were surprised by five Indians, and two of the sons slain, the other two made prisoners. [From Rutland a State Road is under construction through Hubbardston (15.0) to Gardner (25.0).] The route continues through Coldbrook Springs (17.5) to 22.0 BARRE. Alt 950 ft. Pop (twp) 2957 (1910), 3476 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1749. Mfg. cotton and woolen goods, agricultural implements. Originally known as Rutland District and later Hutchinson, in 1776 it was named in honor of Colonel Isaac Barre, an Irish orator and soldier who favored the American cause. In the northwestern part of the town is a huge boulder or rocking stone. On a hillside overlooking the Ware river val- ley Jacob Riis established his summer home on an old farm in the eastern part of the town. The farm is on the Hubbardston road, four miles from the center of Barre. At his own request, the body of Jacob Riis was buried in the Riverside cemetery, in sight of his home. 30.0 PETERSHAM. Alt 1080ft. Pop (twp) 727 (1910), 757 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1754. Indian name Nitchawog. Mfg. boxes. Named for Petersham in England. The Harvard forest at Petersham consists of about 2000 acres of hilly forested land in three blocks of 850, 550, and 600 448 PETERSHAM MANCHESTER acres respectively to the northeast, northwest, and southeast of the village. It is used by the forestry department of Har- vard as an outdoor laboratory in which to teach the principles of technical forestry and the methods of logging operations and forestry management. On the northeast tract are the living quarters and class rooms. There is a total stand of 10,000,000 board feet of merchantable timber, chiefly white pine, the rest chestnut, oak, and other hard woods. From Petersham the route continues straight ahead, joining Route 15 (p 417) at 39.0 ATHOL (p 417). From here the route follows the red markers to Orange (43.5) and West Orange (47.0). The route now turns north- ward, following the signs, "Warwick." Beyond the bridge the route forks right, into 51.2 WARWICK. Alt 950 ft. Pop (twp) 477 (1910-15). Franklin Co. Settled 1744. Indian name Shaomet. This is an isolated hill town that has been left stranded by the development of railroad transportation. This territory was originally called Roxbury Canada from the fact that it was granted to the descendants of thirty-nine soldiers from Roxbury, all but one of whom perished in the expedition to Canada in 1690. On incorporation in 1763 the town was named in honor of the Earl of Warwick. Mt. Grace, rising to 1600 feet immediately below the town, according to one legend was named for Grace Rowlandson, the little daughter of Mrs. Rowlandson, who was taken captive by the Indians at Lan- caster (p 502). In the retreat the child died after crossing Millers River, but the mother carried the dead body of her infant until she reached the foot of this mountain, where she "reluctantly consigned the child to its grave." On the moun- tain is a reservation of the Appalachian Mountain Club. Turn left beyond park, forking twice to the right and then left, right, and left, entering Route 10 (p 335) at 60.5 NORTHFIELD. For Northfield to Brattleboro (74.5) see Route 10 (p 336). R. 19 3. Brattleboro to Manchester. 52.0 m. This route follows the beautiful West river valley to Rawson- ville, crossing Peru Mountain at an altitude of 1630 feet by the oldtime turnpike (automobiles, 50 cents). The road is mostly good gravel or dirt surface and abounds in fine views. As a State Highway the town lines are marked by sign posts. The route leaves Brattleboro by Linden St., the left fork off Main St. north of the Town Hall, and follows West River to R. 19 3. BRATTLEBORO TO MANCHESTER 449 6.0 WEST DUMMERSTON. Alt 390 ft. Pop (twp) 643. Wind- ham Co. Settled 1752. Mfg. granite. The town was named for Lieutenant-governor Dummer of Massachusetts, one of the early proprietors. Black Mountain (1269 ft) across the stream is a mass of light gray granite. Two miles further on the road winds through a defile often called 'The Valley of the Shadow of Death.' 12.0 NEWFANE. Alt 570 ft. Pop (twp) 820. Shire town of Wind- ham Co. Settled 1766. Mfg. lumber. Fronting the attractive common is the court house and on the outskirts of the village are several summer homes. At the old Field Homestead, Eugene Field spent a part of his child- hood and based several poems on these early days. In colonial days at the whipping post a woman for uttering counterfeit money received thirty-nine lashes. 16.0 TOWNSHEND. Alt 850 ft. Pop (twp) 817. Windham Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. wood products. Leland and Gray Seminary, near the shady village Green, was established under Ex-president Taft's grandfather in 1834. His son it was who showed Yale 'bull-dog' grit by walking all the way to New Haven to attend Yale College. The road turns sharply to the left at the Green. Beyond the dangerous grade crossing (17.5), the West river is on the left. The road leads straight through West Townshend (21.0) and down a steep descent with a hidden curve to the right. 25.5 JAMAICA. Alt 660 ft. Pop (twp) 716. Windham Co. Set- tled 1780. Mfg. wood products. To the north are Ball Mountain (1745 ft) and Shatterack (1940 ft) in the gap beyond, with Hamilton Falls, about 120 feet high, on Cobb Brook, a splendid sight in high water. A detour of three and one half miles on the Windham road leads to this cascade. With an eye to summer home seekers Jamaica in 1912 exempted from taxation for five years all improvements of $250 or more. Continuing up maple-shaded Main St., the road crosses roll- ing country to the hamlet of Rawsonville (30.5). Note. The lefthand and shorter route (six miles less) con- tinues straight through Bondville (32.5) climbing westward to Route 43, which it joins (41.5) five miles west of Peru village. (Toll 50 cents, one mile west of junction.) The more traveled road turns right over the bridge at the eastern end of Rawsonville and takes the left fork a mile be- yond. Thence it continues straight through to South London- derry (34.5). At Londonderry (37.0) it joins Route 43 (p 723). 52.0 MANCHESTER (R. 5, p 262). 450 MANCHESTER TICONDEROGA R. 19 4. Manchester to Ticonderoga. 60.0 m. Leaving Manchester the route turns left in Manchester Center (i.o) up the West Branch of the Battenkill. 7.5 DORSET. Alt 940 ft. Pop (twp) 1472. Bennington Co. Set- tled 1768. Mfg. marble and lumber. Dorset is a quiet village in a charming valley of ponds and trout streams. The marble quarries in East Dorset, on Route 5 (p 262), have been worked since 1785. The old tavern of Cephas Kent on July 24, 1776, was the scene of the first con- vention to consider the organization of Vermont as a State. Passing next through the hamlets of East Rupert (9.5) and North Rupert (11.5) the highway follows the Mettawee river. 16.0 PAWLET. Alt 535 ft. Pop (twp) 1959. Rutland Co. Set- tled 1765. Mfg. slate and cheese. This hill village nestles between three heights, Town Hill and Sargent Hill facing The Pattern (1860 ft). There are slate quarries and the dairies turn 3,000,000 pounds of cheese yearly. The road curves left round Haystack Mountain (1919 ft) and then to the right through North Pawlet (19.0) and Wells (21.5) and passes Little Pond on the right and its larger and lovelier companion, Lake St. Catherine, on the left. 29.5 POULTNEY. Alt 430 ft. Pop (twp) 1474. Rutland Co. Set- tled 1771. Mfg. slate, machinery, shirts, and lumber. This busy little manufacturing town obtains power from the Poultney river, which is the New York State line. Horace Greeley, editor of the "New York Tribune" in the Civil War, began newspaper work here, setting type on the "Northern Spectator" as an apprentice in 1826-30. The route crosses the Poultney river (30.0) and beyond Hampton (30.5) recrossesthe Poultney river into 35.0 FAIR HAVEN. Alt 375 ft. Pop (twp) 2554. Rutland Co. Settled 1779. Mfg. slate, shirts, and foundry products. Route 44, to Lake George, passes through the town. The highway continues northward through a rolling farm country, leaving the village of Benson one mile to the left (44.0). Crossing the Addison County line (48) the route turns to the left at the crossroads (51.5), and westward across East Creek to Chipman's Point, and then descending to Mt. Independence (300 ft), on which is a monument. A strong fort was erected by Kosciusko, the Polish patriot, who planned Fort Ticonderoga. The American troops were stationed here in 1776 and on July 28 the Declaration of Independence was read to them. This incident gave the hill its name. Breastworks near the ferry landing and a floating bridge to Ticonderoga were built under 'Mad Anthony' Wayne. Crossing Lake Champlain (57.0) by ferry (toll 50 cts.-$i), the road continues past Fort Ticonderoga to 6.00 TICONDEROGA. R. 20. BOSTON and CAMBRIDGE. No adequate treatment of Boston is possible within the limits of this volume. Bacon's admirable little Guide Book (Ginn & Co.} is recommended. BOSTON. Pop 670,585 (1910), 745,439 (1915); over one third for- eign-born. County-seat of Suffolk Co. Settled 1630. Indian name Shawmut, "sweet waters." Port of Entry. State Capital. Mfg. leather, shoes and shoe stock, machinery, foundry products, clothing, pianos and musical instruments, rubber goods, refined sugar, malt liquors, confectionery, oleo- margarine; printing and publishing. Extensive foreign and domestic commerce in leather products, flour, grain, sugar, cotton, meats, and New England manufactures. Value of Product (1913), $560,390,000; Payroll, $107,031,000. Steam- ships to all important domestic and foreign ports. Boston, one of the oldest and most interesting cities in the United States, is the capital of Massachusetts, the commercial metropolis of New England and the so-called 'Athens of America.' It is a great center of manufacturing, and has twenty-five per cent of the factories of Massachusetts. In or near Boston are the principal shoe and shoe machinery centers of the world, the leading textile and chocolate industries of the United States, the largest watch and the largest confectionery factories in the world. It is the greatest wool market in the country, with a single warehouse that can store one third of the year's clip of the United States. It is also the largest fish market in the country, with a single pier that annually handles 100,000 tons of fresh fish. Boston is the second richest trade center of the Western Hemisphere and is perhaps the wealthiest city in America in proportion to its population. One thirteenth of the bank clearings of the country are made in Boston and one fifth of the savings of the American people are in Massachusetts banks. Boston has a purchasing power per capita greater than any other large city in the world, a fact which explains why Boston is "the best show town in the United States." v The population of Boston according to the 1910 Census was 23.5 per cent of native-born parentage, or three fourths of foreign parentage. Only Chicago, New York, and Milwaukee among the larger cities of the country had a smaller percentage of American parentage. Boston had a larger percentage of foreign-born, 39.5, than any other large city except New York, with 40.4. The Irish Roman Catholics have long predomi- nated and for the past twenty years have controlled the municipal government. It was formerly the greatest Irish city of the world but in this respect as in many others has recently been outstripped by New York. Us) 452 BOSTON Boston is an important seaport with a growing foreign commerce. Nearer to European ports by a day's sail than New York, its position gives it a great advantage which has, however, never been fully realized. Its excellent but somewhat restricted harbor is reached by a rather narrow channel which has been deepened and straightened. Great plans have been formulated for the extension of its foreign commerce and a few years ago, with a tremendous flourish of trumpets, a prop- aganda was instituted and $9,000,000 appropriated for port development, but its disposition proved a political scandal, the Chairman of the Port Directors declaring that a large proportion of the money had been wasted. The port has the largest steamship pier in the world and is building what will be the largest drydock. Boston is foremost among American cities as an educational center and has a student population of upward of 20,000. Within the limits of Greater Boston are Harvard University, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Radcliffe College, Tufts College, Boston University, Boston College, Simmons College, the New England Conservatory of Music, and scores of lesser educational institutions. It has been the most sig- nificant American city in the history of American literature and in the development of American taste in music and art. Until the later decades of the last century Boston was the literary center of the country because of the pre-eminence of the New England writers who lived in or near Boston. The "North American Review" established in Boston in 1815 and the "Atlantic Monthly" in 1857 exerted a wide influence in that period. The Handel and Haydn Society (1815), the Harvard Musical Association (1837), and the Symphony Orchestra (1881) have done much for music not only locally but nationally. A city of local color and characteristic atmosphere, it is sometimes regarded as provincial, but Bostonians, conscious that they are the guardians of national traditions and noble associations, are not troubled by such criticism. Perhaps this self-consciousness creates a spirit of conservatism that colors Boston's mentality. The 'typical Bostonian' may be recognized it is said by a certain hauteur and consciousness of ancestry and culture. Almost involuntarily he regards with something of tolerance and condescension those unfortunate enough to be born in sections remote from Beacon Hill, whether in Chelsea or Manhattan. Social Boston, if there is such a thing, is an elusive entity. There is no common ideal like that of wealth and power which makes New York a social possibility, and many prominent Bostonians do not live in Boston. R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 453 Optimistic Captain John Smith sailed into Boston Harbor in 1614 and loyally named the river "Charles." Describing the region as the "paradise of all these parts" he says, "Of all the four parts of the world that I have yet seen not inhabited, I would rather live here than anywhere." Within a year after the Pilgrims settled in Plymouth, Captain Miles Standish came up the coast in a shallop. He explored Boston Harbor, trafficked with the Indians along the Mystic and took back to Plymouth "a good report of the place, wishing we had been seated there." In the early summer of 1630 John Winthrop, Governor of Massa- chusetts, having landed at Naumkeag, now Salem, and not finding it to his mind, again set sail and on June 17 reached Charlestown in his "admiral ship" the "Arbella." There he found the beginning of a settlement and a "great house" which he took possession of with the intention of here making his "capital town." This had been begun the year before by men from Salem who came overland. At Winnisimmet, now Chelsea, they had found the "palisadoed" house of Samuel Maverick, "a young gentleman of good estate." At Michawum, now Charlestown, was the humbler palisaded and thatched dwelling of Thomas Walford, blacksmith, with his wife and children. At Shawmut, on the slope of Beacon Hill, near what is now Louisburg Square, was the cottage and orchard of William Blaxton (Blackstone), a "solitary bookish recluse," who had been there since 1623. These 'Old Planters' were the survivors of the colonists whom Ferdinando Gorges and his son Robert had settled on Massachusetts Bay some years before (p 675). They were Church of England men, but none the less on this account inclined to friendliness toward the incoming Puritan nonconformists. Maverick gave Winthrop a good dinner upon his arrival, and later Blaxton cordially invited the newcomers to settle on his peninsula. Winthrop's company of 1500 camped as best they coflld, in impro- vised huts, booths, and tents. Ill-supplied with provisions, hot weather and the brackish water from the only spring caused much illness and the death of 200. Some discouraged returned to England; others went to Dorchester and joined friends already camping there. Several score with Sir Richard Saltonstall sailed up the Charles and settled Watertown. Another group under the leadership of Isaac Johnson in response to Blaxton's invitation and attracted by the springs of pure water settled at Tri-mountain and were later joined by the Governor and the greater part of the Colonists. They named the place Boston in honor of the town in Lincolnshire whence Johnson had come. The frame of the Governor's house, already begun across the Charles, was brought over and set up on the site of the present Exchange Building, where he lived for thirteen years. Later he built a house near the Old South Church which existed until during the siege of Boston it was chopped up for firewood by the British. In 1631 the bark "Blessing of the Bay" -was launched and the following year the first church built. The tide of Puritan immigration set in so rapidly that Blaxton could not stand the pressure and in 1634 he declared, "I came from England because I did not like the lord bishops, but I cannot join with you because I would not be under the lords brethren." He moved southward into the wilderness and became the first settler of Rhode Island (p 445). Boston bore a large part in the Pequot War of 1637 and hundreds of captives were brought here, many of them to be sold in the West Indies (p 34). In "New England Prospects" we are told the inhabi- tants are rich and well stored with cattle of all sorts. "Philadelphia was a forest, and New York was an insignificant village, long after its rival (Boston) had become a great commercial town." 454 BOSTON In 1663 Josselyn writes of Boston: "The buildings are handsome, joining one to the other as in London, with many large streets, most of them paved with pebble-stones. In the high street towards the Common there are faire houses, some of stone," a rapid development since 1630 when Shawmut was described as "a hideous wilderness, possessed by barbarous Indians, very cold, sickly, rocky, barren, unfit for culture, and like to keep the people miserable." Edward Ward, an English traveler, in 1699 wrote: "On the south- west side of Massachusetts Bay is Boston whose name is taken from a town in Lincolnshire and is the metropolis of all New England. The houses in some parts joyn as in London. The buildings like their women being handsome and their streets like the hearts of the male inhabitants being paved with pebbles." During the seventeenth century the Colony was ruled by a religious hierarchy whose usurpation of autocratic power was curbed after the restoration of Charles II in 1660. Antinomian dissensions, Quaker and Baptist persecutions were the events of the time. Four witches were executed in Boston in 1648, 1651, 1656, 1688. In 1684 the Mas- sachusetts Charter was annulled but the Royal Governors who were sent to rule met with continued opposition. The first American newspaper, "The Boston News Letter," was established in 1704 (p 35). In 1710 a massive wall of brick and stone with two strong gates and cannon on its parapets was built across the Neck near the present Dover St. Along the waterfront was a wall 2 200 ft long, 15 ft high and 20 ft thick which with the forts on Castle Island and Fort Hill protected the city against the Dutch and French. The city throve commercially and increased in wealth and the British official class lent a luster to society, but of the twoscore most prominent families in its first century, hardly one retained a similar place during the eighteenth century. An ungracious Englishman wrote in 160*9 of Boston's townspeople that he found "Money Their God and Large Possessions the Only Heaven they Covet." Another, Daniel Neal, in 1720 wrote of Boston: "A gentleman from London would almost think himself at home at Boston when he observes the number of people, their houses, their furniture, their tables, their dress and conversation, which is perhaps as splendid and showy as that of the most considerate tradesmen in London." Just before the Revolution, Boston, the most considerable town of North America, had a population of 20,000 and a flourishing trade with the West Indies and Africa. The parliamentary restrictions on trade were bitterly opposed and generally evaded. The Stamp Act of 1765 met with determined opposition and Royal troops were first quartered in the town in 1768. The Boston Port Bill closed the port in June, 1774. When Lord Howe was forced to evacuate the city May 17, 1776, 3000 loyalists went with him, the wealth and aristoc- racy of the town. Few of these ever returned, but the influx from Salem and Newburyport of nouveaux riches of the time who had waxed fat on war munitions and privateering, supplied the later Boston aristocracy. From this emigration, and the destruction of her commerce during the siege, Boston has never recovered her pre- eminence. In 1790 Boston had a population of 18,000, New \ork 33,000, and Philadelphia 28,000. The original Boston, the older part of the town, was built on a hilly, pear-shaped peninsula which jutted out into the harbor with the broad estuaries of the Charles river and Fort Point Channel on either side, and was connected with the main- land oi what is now Roxbury and Brooivlme by a narrow neck. R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 455 The original area of 783 acres has been expanded to over 1800 acres by the filling in of the tidal flats during the nineteenth century. The topographic changes and the expense entailed have been greater than in any other American city. Whole hills of gravel, great quarries of granite, and forests of piling have been used to reclaim new areas from salt water. The greater part of the modern city is built on made land where once was salt water. The Post Office is on the original shore line. Dock Square is in the heart of the city, and Park Square, where the British troops embarked the night before Lexington, is now half a mile from the water. Boston is famed for the narrow and irregular streets of the older parts of the city. The blame has always been put upon the colonial cows, probably with injustice. More than $27,000,000 has been expended since 1810 in widening and straightening streets without too obvious result. Successive fires in 1760 and 1872 have afforded opportunity to straighten and broaden the maze of crooked lanes which the heedlessness of the early settlers bequeathed to posterity. More money has probably been spent in Boston in correcting their initial errors than in all the other cities of the United States together. As late as 1866 Atlantic Avenue was created and Washington Street largely remade. The Subway, built in 1895 to relieve the street congestion, was the first of its kind now so general in all metropolitan cities. The extension under the harbor to East Boston was the first all-cement tunnel in the world. The subway system has since been greatly extended, branches running from Park Street to Cambridge and Dorchester, and a new subway built under Washington Street. Tremont Street, Washington Street, and Columbus Avenue are the great thoroughfares running through the South End. Washington Street, not only the chief north and south thor- oughfare but also the great shopping street, is probably the most congested street in America. Beacon Street, Commonwealth Avenue, Boylston Street, and Huntington Avenue are the great avenues traversing the Back Bay. The more select residential portion between Boylston Street and the river is laid out on a perfectly rec- tangular plan. The cross streets from Arlington St. bordering the Public Garden to Massachusetts Ave. follow an alpha- betical arrangement in the sequence of initials and are all named after British statesmen, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dart- mouth, Exeter, Fairfield, Gloucester, Hereford. Massa- chusetts Avenue, the great cross-town thoroughfare, runs from Everett Square across the South End and the Back Bay, and is prolonged through Cambridge on to Lexington. 456 BOSTON Huntington Avenue, which runs south from Copley Square, is one of the city's most interesting thoroughfares. In the neighborhood of the Massachusetts Charitable Mechanics Building used for shows and exhibitions, the street is largely given over to osteopaths and healers of one kind or another. The great dome of the Christian Science Temple appears across an open green space' on the right. At the corner of Massa- chusetts Ave. is Symphony Hall and Horticultural Hall. Just beyond is the New England Conservatory of Music. This is the heart of the city's Latin Quarter and the street here has been referred to as the 'University of Huntington Avenue.' The Fine Arts Museum, a classic building, contains notable collections unsurpassed in many departments particularly in Oriental art. An excellent Guide is published by the Museum. Further on is the great marble group of the Harvard Medical School and its associated institutions (p 475). Copley Square, centrally located in the modern city, is Boston's nearest approach to a civic center. It is the tourist center of the city, the point from which mileages in this book are calculated, and the starting point of numerous 'rubber- neck wagons' that tour the city. Around it are grouped many of the more interesting modern buildings and from it radiate the chief avenues leading to other points of interest. It bears the name of the famous American portrait painter, John Singleton Copley, who bestowed distinction upon many Boston families by painting treasured portraits of their ancestors. The Square is cut into triangular grass plots by the trolley lines which drive diagonally across it. Innumerable plans for developing a central square have been devised and dis- cussed during the last quarter of a century but none adopted. The Public Library dominates Copley Square, not in altitude but in dignity. Its facade, 225 feet long, extends across the west side of the Square and covers with its platform and court an acre and a half. Erected in 1888-95, at a cost of $2,500,000 exclusive of the site, it was the earliest building of its kind in America. The design by McKim, Mead & White is an adap- tation of the Bibliotheque St. Genevieve in Paris, in the style of the Italian Renaissance. The bronze doors are by Daniel C. French. In the vestibule is a vigorous bronze of Sir Harry Vane (p 460) by Frederick MacMonnies. The staircase of Siena marble is flanked by lions of the same material by Louis Saint-Gaudens. The panels above the stairway illustrating science and literature are by the great French mural painter, Puvis de Chavannes. In the Delivery Room a frieze by Edwin A. Abbey illustrates the legend of "The Holy Grail." In the upper corridor on the R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 457 Special Libraries Floor are the mural decorations and reliefs of John S. Sargent supposed to represent the history or triumph of religion. Cards supplied by the library explain all the paintings minutely. Trinity Church, the masterpiece of H. H. Richardson, is in the heavy Romanesque style of Auvergne. It was completed in 1877 at a cost of $800,000. The west towers and the elabo- rate carving of the porch were added in 1896. The interior has decorations by La Farge, and stained glass windows by La Farge, Burne-Jones, William Morris, and Henry Holiday. The original church was founded in 1728. The Gothic struc- ture which stood on Summer and Hawley Sts. was destroyed in the fire of 1872, and it was under the leadership of Phillips Brooks, rector from 1869 to 1891 when he became bishop, that the new edifice was erected. It stands as a monument to this great churchman. On the west side on Boylston St., under a stone canopy, is the bronze statue of the preacher with the consecrating Christ in the background. The design was Saint-Gaudens' but the master hand was stricken before it was completed and as finished by his pupils it does not yield entire satisfaction. Bela Pratt has recently modeled another Phillips Brooks, presenting him from a wholly different point of view. The rectory, Phillips Brooks' house, is a short distance off at the corner of Clarendon and Newbury Sts. The New Old South Church across Boylston St. from the Public Library, with its lofty leaning tower, is generally de- scribed as in the North Italian Gothic style. Saracenic in- fluence is strongly evident in its architecture as in many other buildings in this neighborhood. It was built in 1874-75 of local Roxbury pudding-stone whose cleavage faces show beau- tiful gradations of color. The tower rises 248 feet and leans some eighteen inches out of perpendicular. It is the successor of the original Old South Church on Washington and Milk Sts., now. consecrated to historical uses. The Public Garden, twenty-four acres in extent, was half a century ago a tidal flat. The style of landscape gardening here is that of the time of its establishment but in spring and summer there is a fine display of flowers. In the old Central Burying Ground on the Boylston Street side of the Common are buried Gilbert Stuart, the painter, and the restaurateur, Julien, creator of the soup that still bears his name. West of this graveyard is all that remains o.f the "trayning field" used for that purpose ever since the Common was laid out, where today the high school cadets and the An- cient and Honorable Artillery Company hold their dress pa- rades. On the hill where the schoolboys coasted in the winter 458 BOSTON of '75, in spite of the prohibition of General Gage, is the Army and Navy Monument, where the British artillery was stationed during the siege. At the eastern foot of the hill stood the great elm near which executions were carried out even as late as 1812, and where the famous duel occurred between Henry Phillips and Thomas Wood bridge in which the latter was killed. Boston Common, an area of about fifty acres, has been public prop- erty since William Blaxton in 1634 sold it to the community. It was once larger until Park Street was put through one end of it cutting off that portion of it in which is situated the Old Granary Burying Ground. On the Common assembled the forces that captured Louisburg and the troops that conquered Quebec. The State House occupies an unrivaled position on Beacon Hill overlooking the Common. The central portion (1795) was designed by Charles Bulfinch. Portions of it are open to the public. Doric Hall leads by a grand staircase to Memorial Hall where are interesting paintings and trophies of the Civil War. Opposite the State House is the beautiful Shaw Monument by Saint-Gaudens, unveiled in 1897, in honor of the Colonel of the first colored regiment in the Civil War. Park Street Church (1809), established for the defense of Puritan orthodoxy against the inroads of the early Unitarian- ism, has long been known as 'Brimstone Corner' from the grim earnestness of its primitive Calvinism. Designed by Peter Banner, an Englishman, its spire as well as its symmetry in general give it pre-eminence among Boston churches of the type. "America" was first sung here in public, and the sails of the U.S. frigate "Constitution" were made in the granary on this site. Opposite the church is the site of the old Boston Music Hall, the first home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, now replaced by a music hall and 'movie' palace. The Granary Burying Ground is the resting place of John Hancock, Samuel Adams, James Otis, Robert Treat Paine, Chief Justice Samuel Sewall (p 174), Peter Faneuil (p 70), Paul Revere, and Franklin's parents. King's Chapel, on the corner of Tremont and School Sts., was the first Church of England edifice on the Bay. Governor Andros seized the land for it, as no Puritan would sell a lot for such a purpose. It is the second building, dating from 1754, and is constructed of Quincy granite, taken from the surface long before quarrying was started. The first building, of wood, stood within the stone walls while they were building. In style both within and without it is closely patterned upon the London churches of the eighteenth century; its architect was Peter Harrison. In 1787 James Freeman was ordained as rector and introduced Unitarian doctrines for the first time in America. Though it has remained Unitarian ever since, it still pre- serves on its walls the Trinitarian creed. The communion service was presented by the English monarch, whose insignia appear on the organ. King's Chapel Burying Ground, the oldest in the city, contains the R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 459 remains of Governor Winthrop (1640) and several of the family, and John Winslow and his wife Mary Chilton, both "Mayflower" Pilgrims. On the right of Scollay Square is Court St., with the City Hall Annex. This occupies the site of the colonial jail, where the pirate Captain Kidd was imprisoned in 1699. On the corner of Court St. and Franklin Ave., a tablet marks the site of the printing office of Edes and Gill, where a patriots' organization met, and here some of its members donned their warpaint before the Boston Tea-Party . James Franklin had a press here, where his young brother Benjamin learned the trade. On Washington St. at the corner of Milk St. is the Old South Meeting House, built in 1729 on the site of an earlier one in which Benjamin Franklin was baptized. During the Revo- lution the British used it as a riding school. It is row a museum of Colonial and Revolutionary relics. Opposite, well back from Washington St. stood the Province House, the offi- cial residence of the royal governors celebrated in Hawthorne's "Legends of Province House." A portion of its wall may still be seen on Province Court. The Old State House stands on the site of the original Marketstead at the head of State St. Here from the time of the earliest settlement stood the stocks, the whipping post, and the pillory. In the Revolutionary period the stocks stood near the northeast corner of the Old State House and the whip- ping post lingered hard by until the nineteenth century. The Old State House dates from 1748 but the outer walls are those of its predecessor, the second Town House built in 1712. It occupies the identical site of the first Town House of 1657. The present building has been used as Town House, City Hall, Court House, State House, and for general business purposes until its restoration in 1882. Tablets on the walls of the build- ing state that Governor Andros' Tyranny was overthrown 1689; Captain Kidd was here examined before imprisonment 1699; and "Here the child Independence was born" and from the balcony were proclaimed the repeal of the Stamp Act, 1766, and the Declaration of Independence, 1776. The halls within have the same walls and ceilings that they had in 1748. On the second floor looking down State St. was the Council Cham- ber. The building is now used as an historical museum by the Bostonian Society and the Marine Society, open daily. Opposite the State House at the corner of Washington St., where a new building is now being erected, was the house and garden of Captain Robert Keayne, the first commander of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company, founded in 1638. The site of the Boston Massacre of 1770 is marked by a radiat- ing arrangement of granite blocks on the pavement diagonally in front of the Merchants National Bank. 460 BOSTON The Exchange Building, 53 State St., covers the site of Governor Winthrop's first house, and also, at the corner of Kilby St., which until the 'Great Fire of 1760' was known as Mackerel Lane, was the Bunch of Grapes Tavern dating from 1711, which succeeded a Colonial Ordi- nary of 1640. The Bunch of Grapes was "noted for the best punch house in Boston, resorted to by most of the gentn merchts and masters vessels." At this tavern in 1786 under the inspiration of General Rufus Putnam (p 447) was organized the Ohio Company. To the left is Faneuil Hall Square, in the market region of the city. The original Faneuil Hall, built in 1742 on made land, the gift of Peter Faneuil (p 70), and designed by John Smibert (p 48), was burned in 1762. The present building, enlarged in 1805, is largely the work of Bulfinch. It is known as the 'Cradle of Liberty.' The tablet states: "Here were held/ Both before and after/ The Revolution/ Many patriotic meetings/ Which kept alive the fires of freedom/ Among the people/ And stirred them to great deeds/ From which fact/ This hall became known/ as/ THE CRADLE/ OF/ LIBERTY." The ground floor is occupied by markets. The great hall above is still used for meetings and contains a number of historical paintings. Above the hall is the armory of the Ancient and Honorable Artillery Company with many inter- esting relics of Colonial and Revolutionary times. Dock Square is to the west of Faneuil Hall and as its name implies marks the original waterfront. The Old Hancock Tavern on Corn Court to the south of the Square' dated from 1733; here lodged Talleyrand when exiled from France % in 1795 and two years later Louis Philippe. On its site has been built an annex to a modern office building. In the adjacent Adams Square is a statue of Samuel Adams by Anne Whitney, a replica of which is in the Capitol at Washington. From Dock Square, Union Street leads north. The tablet on No. 8 1 proclaims it the site of the Green Dragon Tavern which stood here from 1680 to about 1820. It was the chief meeting place of the "North End Corcus," a patriotic club from which our name 'caucus' is derived. Here the Tea-Party originated and here was organized the first Lodge of Free Masons in 1752, of which Joseph Warren and Paul Revere were officers. Near the corner of Union and Hanover Sts. was the "Blue Ball," the boyhood home of Benjamin Franklin where he worked at candle-making. On Marshall's Lane, off Union St., a low brick building is of interest as the site of the shop in which Benjamin Thompson (pp 603, 6oq) was an apprentice. On Creek Lane to the right of Marshall's Lane is a rough stone inscribed "Boston Stone, 1737." This is a portion of a paint mill brought from England in 1 700. From Hanover St., Salem Street leads to the right. This was the Green Lane which in the eighteenth century was the R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 461 abode of the wealthy aristocracy. It has long since been given over to the Hebrews and the 'rubberneck wagons' still point out the site of Solomon Levi's shop of the famous song. At 130 Prince St., to the right of Salem St., is the house in which Major Pitcairn died of his wounds (p 428). Prince Street leads into North Square, a squalid triangle in the heart of the Italian colony, but once the residence of the aristocracy. The house of Paul Revere was the home of the patriot silversmith and bellfounder from 1770 until 1800 when waxing wealthy he moved to a finer house on Charter St. The house, the oldest in Boston, was built soon after the "Great Fire of 1676" on the site of the parsonage of the Old North Church where Increase Mather lived. (Adm. 25 cts.) At the head of the Square stood the Old North Church where the Mathers preached. During the siege the British troops pulled it down for fire- wood. On Garden Court St. stood the birthplace and mansion of Governor Hutchinson (p 516), where he wrote his History of Massachusetts and which was sacked by the Anti-Stamp Act mob. Here also was the Clark- Frankland mansion where Sir Harry Frankland lived with Agnes Surriage (p 636). Christ Church, built in 1723, stands near the north end of Salem St. The tower was re- built in 1805 by designs from Bulfinch. The chimes date from 1744. The tablet on the tower set in 1878 bears the legend: "The signal lanterns of Paul Revere displayed in the steeple of this church April 18, 1775, warned the country of the march of the British troops to Lexington and Concord." One may climb "Up the wooden stairs, with stealthy tread, To the belfry chamber overhead." Following Salem St. past Hull St., cut through John Hull's pasture in 1701 (p 174), Charter Street leads to Copp's Hill Burying Ground where are the graves or tombs of the Mathers, the Hutchinsons, and other early worthies. On the water- front is North End Park and Beach, a playground for this crowded tenement region. This excursion may be continued across to Charlestown, visiting Bunker Hill Monument, the U.S. Navy Yard, the site of John Harvard's house and the birthplace of Samuel F. B. Morse, inventor of the telegraph, the son of the Rev. Jedediah Morse (p 62). 462 CAMBRIDGE CAMBRIDGE. Pop 104,839 (1910), 108,822 (1915), about one third foreign-born, chiefly Irish and Canadians. Middlesex. Co. Settled 1630. Mfg. foundry products, pianos, sugar, con- fectionery, ink, soap, glue, furniture, automobile accessories, chemicals, electric apparatus; printing and bookbinding. Value of Product (1913), $51,863,000; Payroll, $9,848,000. Cambridge is America's greatest educational center, the seat of Harvard University, Radcliffe College, and now also of Massachusetts Institute of Technology. It has also four theological schools, three of which are connected with the University. Cambridge is also a great manufacturing city with diverse industries. The industrial section is confined chiefly to Cambridgeport and East Cambridge while old Cam- bridge, or Cambridge proper, centers about the University. The completion of the subway from Boston has stimulated the development of new residential districts. The inland site of old Cambridge was chosen by the leaders of the Winthrop Company in December, 1630, because "more easily defen- sible against the enemy from whom the most was to be feared, not the Indians, but the warships of King Charles" [John Fiske]. The advantages of the Shawmut peninsula for commerce and for defense against the Indians led to the chief settlement at Boston. The frame of Winthrop's house, already set up, was removed to Boston, but Dudley, Bradstreet, and others remained at Cambridge. The set- tlement was known as Newe Towne, changed to Cambridge in 1638 after its selection in 1637 as the seat of the college. In 1632 a stockade with a ditch was built around a thousand acres enclosing approximately the area of the present college grounds down to the river. It was the imposition of a tax to meet the great expense of this "pallysadoe" that "furnished the occasion for the first great assertion of the prin- ciples of constitutional law and free government in New England" I Fiske]. The Watertown settlers refused to pay because it was "taxa- tion without representation." The Rev. Thomas Hooker and his congregation from Braintree, England, arrived in the summer of 1632 but four years later became restive at restrictions of the suffrage and, wanting "more room," migrated to the Connecticut (p 149). The original settlement lay between the present Harvard Square and the river, the 'Gold Coast' and clubdom of today. The present Dunster Street was the earliest street. Here was the first meeting house and the house of Thomas Dudley (1631), so luxurious that Winthrop reproached the Deputy-governor for his extravagance. The territory of Cambridge was successively enlarged so that by 1655 it included the present Brighton, Newton, Arlington, Lexington, and parts of Bedford and Billerica. Until the Revolution the history of Cambridge was the history of Harvard College. Tory gentry and early scholars maintained a happy social life and made the town a center of hospitality, memories or which still linger about the beautiful old houses oi Tory Row. During the siege of Boston, Cambridge was the headquarters of the army of investment which in June, 1775, numbered 16,000, 11,500 of which were from Massachusetts. The left wing under General Ward, consisting of fifteen Massachusetts regiments and Gridley's artillery, lay here. Later General Knox brought fifty-five cannon from Crown Point and Ticonderoga, and the New York troops and Morgan's Virginia Riflemen joined the camp. In November, 1777, tne great captive army of Burgoyne was brought to Cambridge, but as the col- R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 463 lege refused to vacate for their accommodation, the captive troops were encamped on Winter and Prospect Hills in Somerville until 1779 when they were sent to Charlottesville, Va. Timothy Dwight gives us an intimate picture of Cambridge and its social life after the Revolution. But he evidently had in mind par- ticularly the class from which are recruited the present-day 'goodies,' the good wives of the town who still perform the important function of daily making the beds of some 3000 students. "Several handsome villas, and other handsome houses, are seen here, a considerable num- ber of decent ones, and a number, not small, of such as are ordinary and ill-repaired. To my eye this last appeared as if inhabited by men accustomed to rely on the university for their subsistence; men, whose wives are the chief support of their families by boarding, wash- ing, mending, ^and other offices of the like nature. The husband, in the mean time, is a kind of gentleman at large; exercising an authoritative control over every thing within the purlieus of the house, reading newspapers and political pamphlets, deciding on the characters and measures of an administration, and dictating the policy of his country. In ahnost all families of this class, the mother and her daughters lead a life of meritorious diligence and economy; while the husband is merely a bond of union, and a legal protector of the house- hold. Accordingly he is paid and supported, not for his services, but for his presence. In every other respect he is merely 'nugae canorae,' just such another talking tribe as a parrot; having about as much understanding, and living just about as useful a life; a being, creeping along the limits of animated and unanimated existence; and serving, like an oyster, as a middle link between plants and animals." Cambridge was the birthplace in 1810 of Margaret Fuller, Countess D'Ossoli, the brilliant transcendentalist; of Oliver Wendell Holmes, born in 1809; of James Russell Lowell, born in 1819. The greater number of illustrious personages of Cambridge have been born else- where and drawn to it by the college. From Harvard Bridge there is a fine view of the Boston sky- line dominated by the State House and the Custom House tower. As yet comparatively few buildings have been erected on the Cambridge bank along the new boulevard. The most noticeable is the group of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology now affiliated with Harvard. M. I. T., or 'Tech,' is the largest technical and scientific school in America and has a worldwide reputation. Its courses are said to require more work and thought than any others in the New World. The enrollment is about 2000. The buildings are constructed of concrete faced with Indiana limestone in a simple and im- pressive style, the last word in efficiency. Downstream is the West Boston Bridge, adorned with pepper box turrets and carrying an elevated track. Beyond Central Square on Massachusetts Ave. is the City Hall, the gift of Frederick H. Rindge, who also gave the Public Library and the Rindge Technical Training School, on Broad- way and Irving St. In Harvard Square is the subway entrance, beyond which is the plain yet dignified Lyceum Hall, now occupied by the Harvard Cooperative Society, familiarly called the 'Coop.' 464 CAMBRIDGE The First Parish Church stands opposite the College Yard, where until within fifty years Harvard's Commencement Exer- cises took place. Its minister is that genial and humorous essayist, the Rev. Samuel McChord Crothers, D.D., author of "The Gentle Reader," and other characteristic volumes. In the God's-Acre belonging to Christ Church, between the "Sentinel and Nun" as Holmes called the churches, are buried early presidents of Harvard, and other worthies. Here also lie Daniel Gookin, the companion of Eliot the Apostle to the Indians, and Stephen Daye the printer, who set up a press in 1640 and brought out America's first publication, "The Bay Psalm-Book," and John Eliot's Indian Bible. Christ Church (1761) was designed by Peter Harrison on the same lines as King's Chapel, Boston. During the Revolution, after the Tory parishioners had departed, it was used as a barracks and the organ pipes were melted for bullets. George Washington and his staff attended a service in it on the last Sunday of 1775. Under the floor is the family tomb of Colonel Henry Vassall; one of the ten coffins preserved there contains the remains of a slave, Darby, who lived to be nearly a hundred. The Christ Church chimes are unusually pure in tone. The Washington elm, now an unsightly stump, stands in the center of Garden St., at the intersection of Mason. Long- fellow's inscription on the granite tablet reads: "Under this tree Washington first took command of the American army, July 3, 1775." Learned historians and sceptics have recently questioned the truth of this. Radcliffe College, formerly known as the Annex, named for Anne Radcliffe, Harvard's first woman benefactor (1643), occupies the old Fay house and a series of new buildings rather closely packed together. The students annually number about 600 and the teaching staff and government is derived from Harvard. The Fay house was earlier the residence of Edward Everett and it was while Rev. Samuel Gilman of Charleston was a guest of his brother-in-law, Judge Fay, that he wrote "Fair Harvard" for the 20oth anniversary of the college. Cambridge Common in the heart of 'Cambridge preferred' is historic ground. In early days the Common was the scene of executions and of the great revival held by Whitefield. The cannon standing at the corners of the Soldiers' Monument, on the Common, were a part of the booty captured at Crown Point in 1775 by Captain Ethan Allen and brought (p 340) by General Harry Knox to use in the siege of Boston. Two are British cannon and the other was probably captured at the Battle of Quebec in 1745. At the upper end of the Common, near Massachusetts Ave., is a statue of John Bridge, the Puri- R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 465 tan, by Thomas and Marshall Gould. Across Massachusetts Ave., a tablet marks the birthplace of Oliver Wendell Holmes. Brattle Street, once the 'Old Road' to Watertown, has for two centuries been the street of Cambridge. The stately colonial houses bordering it, the residences of loyalists, give it the name of 'Tory Row.' Here lived the Brattles, the Vas- salls, Judge Joseph Lee, Lieutenant-governor Oliver and Jonathan Sewall, who constituted an exclusive set which once a year from a sense of propriety gave a social entertainment to the faculty of the college. On the outbreak of the Revolu- tion all these families fled to England and their estates were confiscated. 'The Cambridge Social Union' occupies the old General William Brattle house. On the corner of Hawthorne St. is the house, built early in the eighteenth century, of Colonel Henry Vassall who married a daughter of Isaac Royall (p6oo). The Longfellow-Craigie house faces an open space, Longfellow Garden, the gift of the Longfellow Memorial Association, which affords an unobstructed view of the Charles, and Soldier's Field and Longfellow Park on the other side, the latter given by the poet and others in 1870 to Harvard. The poet's study THE LONGFELLOW HOUSE, 1750 was the front room to the right, behind it was his library. The poet's children have recently deeded the house to the city of Cambridge as a per- petual memorial to their father. The house was built about 1750 by Colonel John Vassall. Confis- cated by the Revolutionists and used by General Washington for his headquarters, it eventually came into the possession of Dr. Andrew Craigie, apothecary-general to the Continental Army. His widow leased rooms and here lodged Talleyrand in 1795, Edward Everett, Jared Sparks, Joseph Worcester, and Longfellow lived here from 1837 when first called to a professorship at Harvard until his death in 1882. In 1843 his father-in-law, Nathan Appleton, purchased it for him. Along Brattle St. there are many other colonial houses dat- ing from the eighteenth century but now much modernized. The house of Ole Bull, the Norwegian violinist, is interesting because built with its back to the street, an eccentricity fol- lowed by Mark Twain in his Hartford house (p 115). Elmwood, the birthplace (1819) and home of James Russell Lowell where he died in 1891, is a large three-story mansion, surrounded by English elms, originally the country seat of Thomas Oliver, the last of the royal lieutenant-governors. 466 CAMBRIDGE The poet's study was on the third floor. Much of the estate of the poet's time and the pine grove back of the house where he walked have been taken for the Lowell Memorial Park, which was paid for by popular subscription. The house was built about 1760 by Thomas Oliver who later became Royal Lieutenant-governor. His resignation being forced from him by the men of Middlesex, he wrote: "My house at Cambridge being surrounded by four thousand people, in compliance with their com- mands I sign my name, Thomas Oliver." After Bunker Hill it was used as a hospital. In 1793 it became the country seat of Elbridge Gerry (p 635) through the time of his service as Ambassador, Gover- nor, and Vice-president. His widow in 1817 sold the estate to the Rev. Charles Lowell, who in 1861 bequeathed it to his son, the poet. Mt. Auburn Street leads past the Stillman Infirmary, the Cambridge Hospital, and the Home for Aged People, to Mt. Auburn Cemetery which occupies a beautifully diversified piece of land bordering the Charles. It contains the graves of so many distinguished New England men and women of the middle nineteenth century that it has long been a place of pilgrimage. Here are buried Longfellow, Lowell, Holmes, Agassiz, Motley, Phillips Brooks, Sumner, Choate, W. E. Channing, Margaret Fuller, Edwin Booth, Edward Everett, and Mary Baker Eddy. HARVARD UNIVERSITY, the oldest and foremost of American institutions of learning, comprises many divisions. Of these, Harvard College, Radcliffe College, the Law School, the Divin- ity School, and the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences are in Cambridge; the Medical School and the Dental School in Boston; the Bussey Institution and the Arnold Arboretum in Jamaica Plain. More distant are the Harvard Forest at Peters- ham, the Engineering Camp at Squam Lake, and the astro- nomical station near Arequipa, Peru. The total administrative and teaching staff is about 800 and the annual enrollment over 6000. The endowments, almost wholly derived from private sources, are over $23,000,000. Visitors desiring to see something of the college should provide themselves with the Official Guide Book of Harvard University on sale at the book stores on the Square. Student guides appointed by the Corporation may be found near University Hall, who will put the visitor an fait as to the man- ners and customs of Harvard and what is best worth seeing. Harvard, unlike other colleges, has no campus. The quad- rangle enclosed by the older buildings is locally called 'The Yard.' Within recent years it has been wholly enclosed by an ornamental fence, the sections and the gates of which have been erected by various classes of the last thirty years. The yard was beautiful with the shade of arching elms until about five years ago when through neglect and ignorance they R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 467 gradually died off. After various attempts at planting whip- stock oaks which also died, public-spirited alumni from the West taught the University that large trees might be trans- planted, and some twenty elms, approximately one foot in diameter, were set out in the spring of 1916. The Johnston Gate, on the west side, opening from the Square, is the ceremonial entrance to the yard through which the Governor and his staff enter on Commencement Day. It is the oldest and most imposing, erected in 1890 from designs by Charles F. McKim. Massachusetts Hall, to the right, is the oldest of the college buildings, erected in 1720 at the cost of the General Court. A tablet on the wall records the names of the more illustrious alumni who lived here in its 150 years as a dormitory. During the Revolution it was used as bar- racks for the Continental soldiers. It is now a lecture hall. Harvard Hall, opposite (1764), is surmounted by the belfry whence the hours of rising, prayers, and recitations are rung. A tablet on its face tells its story. To the left is Hollis Hall (1763), commem- orating Thomas Hollis of London, whose family for three generations were Har- vard's benefactors. Emerson and Thoreau both lived here. MASSACHUSETTS HALL Stoughton Hall, next beyond, so like Hollis that it is difficult to distinguish between the two, was built by the college in 1804 in part from the pro- ceeds of a lottery. Holden Chapel, which stands back and behind these two, dates from 1744 and since its abandonment for religious purposes has been a general utility building. Behind Stoughton is the Phillips Brooks House, the head- quarters of university religious work. Hoi worthy Hall (1812), at the end of the yard, was also erected in part from lottery funds. This, with the neighboring dormitories, is the center of senior class life. The rigors of life in these old buildings are not so great as they used to be since the introduction of electric light, steam heat, and shower baths, but to change from the luxurious dormitories of the 'Gold Coast' to the more democratic and primitive existence is doubtless beneficial to the budding alumnus. In the center of the yard on the further side stands Univer- sity Hall (1815), a white granite building of pleasing and dignified proportions, designed by Bulfinch. The other dormi- 468 CAMBRIDGE lories about the yard are sad examples of the perverted archi- tectural taste of the later nineteenth century. Matthews Hall stands on the site of the Indian College (p 473), and Gray's Hall stands on the site of the first college building. Wadsworth House (1726), facing Massachusetts Ave., the only wooden building in the yard, was formerly the presidential residence. Beyond University Hall is what has come to be known as the 'New Yard,' dominated by the Widener Library's huge bulk, a memorial to Harry Elkins Widener, a Harvard gradu- ate who was lost in the "Titanic" disaster, April 14, 1912. The old yellow house on the corner, long the home of Professor Palmer, and before that of Andrew G. Peabody, was originally the College Observatory. Opposite is the Harvard Union, a club open to all members of the University, the gift of Henry Lee Higginson and the late Henry Warren. The Colonial Club adjacent is the remodeled house of Henry James, father of the eminent novelist and of the psychologist. On the side of the 'New Yard' facing Quincy St. are suc- cessively Emerson Hall, the headquarters of the Philosophy Department, Sever Hall, a recitation building designed by H. H. Richardson, and Robinson Hall, the home of the Archi- tectural Department. The Fogg Art Museum contains admirable working collec- tions and the notable Gray collection of engravings, some excellent early Italian paintings, and antique sculpture. The ' Old Gym ' in the little delta is at present occupied by the collection of the Germanic Museum soon to be removed to the new building on Kirkland St. It was founded in 1902 and contains important donations from the German Emperor. On the southeast corner of Quincy St. and Broadway is the house built for Louis Agassiz by the college, where he and his wife maintained a remarkable school for young women (1855-63). Memorial Hall, a huge structure of brick with a pseudo- gothic tower, stands in a delta once the playing field of the college. It was erected in 1870-75 in memory of the Harvard men who fell in the Civil War. The lofty transept has some fine stained glass, and marble tablets bear the names of grad- uates and students who lost their lives in the Rebellion. On one side is Sanders Theatre used for concerts, lectures, and, until 1916, when they were transferred to the Stadium, for Commencement 'exercises. On the opposite side is the great hall now used for a Commons. Its walls are hung with portraits of college worthies and others, including examples of the work of Copley, Stuart, and other early American painters. In the delta at the end of Memorial Hall is the bronze ideal statue of John Harvard by Daniel C. French, which has more R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 469 than once been treated with coats of crimson paint by prank- some students. To the right on Oxford St., about Holmes Field, formerly the Varsity baseball diamond, are grouped the buildings of the Law School, Austin Hall, the original building by H. H. Richardson, the Music building, the Jefferson Laboratory, and other buildings of Physics, Mining, and Engineering. The University Museum, a huge brick pile, built about three sides of a court, includes the Zoological, Botanical, Mineralogical, and Geological collections and departments. The Peabody Museum of American Archaeology and Ethnol- ogy, founded by George Peabody, the London banker-philan- thropist (p 514), occupies the southern wing of the great structure. The Museum is a great monument to the Agassizes, father and son. Founded by Louis Agassiz in 1859, its devel- opment and fulfilment is largely due to his son Alexander who himself gave more than a million dollars. The exhibition rooms open to the public are chiefly on the second and third floors, the other floors being devoted to teaching, research, and storage. The collections are open to the public. In the Botanical Museum the Ware Collection of glass flowers prepared by the brothers Leopold and Rudolph Blaschka, of Hosterwitz, Germany, is especially notable, so accurately modeled and tinted as to be deceptive. Harvard has developed topographically and architecturally in a most haphazard way. During the administration of President Eliot, the extension was chiefly to the north toward Jarvis Field and Norton's Woods. Of late years the tide has turned toward the Charles river. The two oldest clubs, the Institute of 1770, at the corner of Dunster and Mt. Auburn Sts., popularly called the 'Dickey,' known for the spectacular stunts of its initiates at football games, and the Hasty Pud- ding Club (1795), Holyoke St., known to the outer world for its theatrical productions, have always been on the side below Massachusetts Ave. With the building of Claverly Hall in 1895 in the midst of what was the slummy home of the Cam- bridge "mucker," a new element of luxury was introduced into the student life. Since the region of Mt. Auburn St. has blos- somed forth with luxurious dormitories, it has been known as the 'Gold Coast.' The segregation of the Freshmen on the Charles and of the Seniors in the upper end of the yard in recent years has somewhat dimmed the luster of the 'Gold Coast.' In the worn and tawdry region south of the yard are the clubs which are the aspiration of the undergraduate. There are practically no Greek letter fraternities at Harvard and club life plays a part quite different from that at other colleges. 470 CAMBRIDGE The Hasty Pudding, the premier club, Holyoke St., selects its members for all-round prominence in college activities without reference to hereditary distinction, but dramatic or musical ability is fairly sure of recognition. Literary mentality is recognized by the Signet (1870), 46 Dunster St., and the Stylus (1902), 41 Winthrop St. Socially 1 Agassis House 2 President Lowell 3 Apthorp House 4 'Lampoon Building 5 Claverly (1893) 6 Randolph (1897) 7 Russell (igoo) 8 Westmorly (1898) 9 Crimson Bldg. 10 A. D. Club it Beck Hall 12 Hasty Pudding 13 Sumner Statue 14 Dana Chambeis 15 Dunster Hall 16 Pi Eta 17 Car house 18 University Press 19 Chestnut tree site 20 Browne & Nichols School 21 Fay House 22 Gymnasium 23 Agassiz House 24 Library 25 Sargent School R. 20. BOSTON AND CAMBRIDGE 47 J in the first class, and recognizing heredity as a factor, are the A. D., corner of Massachusetts Ave. and Plympton St., the Porcellian on Massachusetts Ave. opposite the gate with the boar's head. The Fly (1836), 2 Holyoke Place, is one of the few at which members may live. The Delphic (1848), 9 Linden St., is better known as the 'Gas House.' Among the more recent clubs for upper classmen of social prominence are the Fox, 44 Boylston St., the Spec, 15 Holyoke St., and the Owl (1896), 30 Holyoke St. The Iroquois, the Kalumet, the Sphinx, and the Phoenix are feeders for the upper class clubs. The Pi Eta (1866), i Winthrop Sq., and the D. U., Harvard St., are clubs known for their theatricals. In this region of clubdom on Plympton St. is the new building of the Harvard "Crimson," the college daily, which 'Lampy' calls 'The Crime.' Occupying the delta at the intersection of Mt. Auburn and Bow Sts. is the sanctum of the "Lampoon," a bizarre bit of architecture. Something of an earlier Cambridge still survives in this region. At the corner of Dunster and Mt. Auburn Sts. a tablet marks the site of the first meeting house (1632), and at the corner of South and Dunster Sts. is the site of the house of Thomas Dudley (1630), marked by a tablet. On Bow St. the regicides Goffe and Whalley were hidden (1660) until they fled to New Haven (p 92). On Linden St., under the shadow of Randolph Hall, is Apthorp House, a fine old colonial mansion of 1761 called in derision the 'Bishop's Palace' because of the aspirations of a former rector of Christ Church who lived here. From Harvard Square Boylston Street leads to the Charles river, crossed by the Anderson Bridge, presented to Cambridge by the Hon. Larz Anderson to commemorate the services in the Civil War of his father, General Nicholas Longworth Anderson. At the left are the new Freshman Dormitories, luxuriously appointed brick and stone structures in which enter- ing classes are now obliged to segregate themselves for a pre- liminary psychological treatment. To the left of the bridge is the Weld Boat Club and upstream the Newell Boat Club, used by the Varsity and Freshman crews. Beyond the river is Soldier's Field, presented by Henry Lee Higginson in memory of Civil War comrades whose names are recorded on the monument before the Locker building. Here the football and baseball games and other athletic con- tests are decided. In the Stadium, which seats 27,000, the exercises of Class Day and Commencement take place. It was under the inspiration of Sir Harry Vane, then Governor at the age of twenty-four, "young in years yet in sage counsel old," that the General Court in October, 1836, "dreading to leave an illiterate ministry to the churches when our present ministers shall lie in the dust," took the first steps toward the establishment of a school which later became Harvard. Many towns desired the college, and a site near Salem (p 637) was seriously considered, but in November, 1637, "the colledge is ordered to be at New Towne." It was agreed to give 472 CAMBRIDGE 400, doubling the yearly tax rate. There is no record that this money was ever paid, but this is said to be the first case "in which the people by their representatives ever gave their own money to found a place of education." The first "schoole" was built by Nathaniel Eaton in 1637 near the site of the present Wadsworth House. It stood on an acre of ground enclosed with palings in which was an orchard of apple trees. In 1638 the young pastor of Charlestown, John Harvard, a graduate of Emmanuel College, Cambridge, died, childless, of consumption. He had a respectable fortune for those days accumulated by his father and two successive stepfathers, respectively a butcher, a cooper, and a grocer. He left to the infant college half his estate of 1600 and his library of 320 volumes. The college records show the receipt of only 3Q5, 3 sh., and it was charged at the time that " Mr. Eaton, professing valiently yet falsely and most deceitfully the fear of God, did lavish out a great part of it." This Eaton had some unpleasantness with his assistant, Nathaniel Briscoe, whom he 'beat up,' though the latter defended himself with a knife; but when the matter was brought before the magistrates, the head master was "convicted of being pas- sionate, quarrelsome, negligent and cruel" and was dismissed. Of the first Commencement of Harvard College in 1642 Governor Winthrop records in his journal: "Nine bachellors commenced at Cambridge: they were young men of good hope and performed their acts so as gave good proof of their proficiency in the tongues and Arts." In 1643 a seal was obtained and two instructors, Sir Bulkelcy and Sir Downing, were engaged at a salary of four pounds a year to help the President read to the Junior pupils as he should see fit. The same Sir Bulkeley contributed two acres of land nearly adjoining, on which now stands the Widener Library. In 1650 the President and Fellows of Harvard College were incor- porated, the charter declaring the purpose to be "the advancement of all good literature, arts and sciences" and "the education of the Eng- lish and Indian youth of this country in Knowledge and Godliness." The first brick building was "the Indian College" built, about where Matthews Hall now stands, with funds received from England, de- signed to accommodate twenty aborigines. The college became the pride of New England, and endowments and gifts poured in. That it accomplished its purpose is evidenced by the fact that in 1696 out of 121 clergymen in the eleven counties nearest Cambridge 104 were graduates of Harvard as were the ten clergymen who, four years later, initiated that local theological school which later became Yale (p 103). Up to the middle of the nineteenth century, Harvard, like other American colleges, was little more than what we would today call an academy. A more liberal spirit in scholarship and academic freedom was introduced as the result gf GejLrnaji influe.Qcg. This began with George Ticknor and Edward Everett, who had been trained in Ger- many, and was continued by a number of eminent scholars who later became professors, and by the great number of later faculty trained in German universities. During the forty years 1860-1909 of the administration of President Charles W. Eliot, the college grew to be a university in the highest sense, with national patronage and appeal. The elective system was inaugurated, the graduate schools developed, and the number of students, instructors, and buildings and the amount of endowments were all easily multiplied by ten. Professor Scott Nearing's study of distinguished college graduates since 1890 finds Harvard leading with 155, Yale 83, Columbia 52, Michigan 44, Cornell 36, Pennsylvania 36, Princeton 34, Stanford 28. From this it seems that Harvard has graduated since 1890 nearly as many distin- guished men as Cornell, Columbia, Stanford, and Michigan combined. METROPOLITAN BOSTON. Greater Boston is the fourth metropolitan center of the country, with a population of 1,520,470 (1910) in an area of 414 square miles. Within the sparsely populated outlying fringe of residential and agricultural towns Saugus, Wakefield, Stoneham, Lex- ington, Lincoln, Weston, Wellesley, Needham, Dover, West- wood, Dedham, Canton, Milton, Braintree, Weymouth, Hingham, Cohasset, and Hull is the more densely populated ring of suburbs, so merging with the central population that their boundaries are indistinguishable. This includes the cities of Cambridge, Chelsea, Everett, Maiden, Medford, Mel- rose, Newton, Quincy, Revere, Somerville, Waltham, Woburn, and the towns of Arlington, Belmont, Brookline, Watertown, and Winchester. As a center of population it is the second in the country. The tributary region within a radius of fifty miles as given by the census of 1910 had a population of 3,470,587. Within the same radius New York had 7,321,485; Philadelphia, 2,943,848; Chicago, 2,843,057; St. Louis, 1,228,184. One twenty-fifth of the population of the United States dwells within fifty miles of Boston, more people than the com- bined population of Montana, New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, Delaware, Idaho, North Dakota, Utah, and Wyoming. This great concentrated population, equipped with the intensive transportation facilities of a huge metropolis, is what invariably astonishes the stranger who, with census figures in mind, expects to find Boston a city of the St. Louis, Cleveland, or Baltimore type, rather than one comparing with Chicago and Philadelphia. Metropolitan Boston extends somewhat beyond the "Boston Basin," the physiographic entity bounded by the rim of hills extending from High Rock in Lynn around through the Mid- dlesex Fells, Arlington Heights, and the Blue Hills, to the rocky shores of Hingham and Cohasset, a region of uncommon diversity and landscape charm. The four Metropolitan Districts are the two Sewerage Dis- tricts, North Metropolitan and South Metropolitan; the Metropolitan Parks District, organized in 1893, and the Metro- politan Water District, organized in 1895. These were con- stituted in the above order, and were successively designed to meet needs beyond the scope of individual localities. Following an Australian precedent, the Commonwealth issued bonds and advanced the necessary funds. Every five years the fixed charges are apportioned to the various municipalities in ratio to their respective population and wealth. Administrative functions are vested in two commissions, the Sewerage and Water Board having '473) 474 BOSTON been consolidated. These districts are not co-terminous. Cambridge, Lynn, and Winchester have their own water systems. But the Parks District includes all the other districts except the water-district towns of Lexington and Marblehead. The commissioners are appointed by the Governor and Council. The Metropolitan Parks and Water Systems were first suggested by Sylvester Baxter, who in 1891 published a comprehensive study of " Greater Boston." This so impressed Charles Eliot, the landscape architect, that he joined in organizing a movement which met with immediate response and the almost unanimous enactment of the desired legislation. As a result, Boston early had the most logically and artistically developed park system of any of the world's great cities and this has not only contributed to the health and enjoyment of the populace and enhancement of real estate, but has redounded to the world-wide credit of the municipality. The Metropolitan Park System was designed by Charles Eliot and the brothers Olmsted. It cost something like $20,000,000, including $4,500,000 expended on the Charles River Basin. It consists of an inner and outer ring, more or less complete, of parks and reservations, with connecting boulevards, and comprises 10,427 acres. It complements the local parks of the towns and cities about, such as Lynn Woods (2000 acres), which bring the total area of pleasure grounds within the Metropolitan District to over 17,000 acres, including the great municipal sys- tem of Boston, designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the elder. The wide distribution of park areas affords a great diver- sity of landscape features and shows remarkable balance. The wilderness reservations of the Blue Hills on the south balance the Fells and Lynn Woods on the north. The shore reserva- tions of Nantasket and Revere similarly balance these. The river-valley improvements have been utilized for beau- tiful radiating parkway routes. Along the course of Muddy River have been developed the Fens; the Mystic and the Neponset tidal streams have been dredged; the Charles River Basin, formerly a tidal estuary, is now a fresh water lake. SHORT MOTOR TRIPS ABOUT BOSTON. The country of eastern Massachusetts with its diversified natural scenic attractions, its beautiful residential towns, its well-kept countryside, magnificent gentlemen's estates and excellent road surfaces offer every inducement for short motor- ing trips. Throughout eastern Massachusetts one may safely explore the country without fear of impassable roads, in fact, with a map and a quick eye may be sure of delightful trips and good roads in almost any direction. The following tours (Routes 21-29), which, by reference to the map and the cross references in the text, may be modified at will, are planned to reveal some of the more delightful regions of eastern Massachusetts which might otherwise escape R. 21. ROUND ABOUT METROPOLITAN BOSTON 475 notice. Either day or half-day excursions from Boston may readily be made up by combining the radiating routes with cross-country routes. For example: Route 30 along the south shore to Plymouth may be followed from Plymouth over Route 16 to Middleboro with an excursion southward into Lakeville, returning through Middleboro via Route 31. Simi- larly another excursion may be made up by taking 30 to Sagamore, thence by Route 17 through Marion and New Bed- ford and returning by other radiating routes. Other excursions may thus be made up by combining the north shore Route 36 with 38, 37, 29, 35, or 28. R. 21. ROUND ABOUT METROPOLITAN BOSTON. 74.5 m. Via MILTON, the BLUE HILLS, DEDHAM, CHARLES RIVER, WELLESLEY, NEWTON, WALTHAM, ARLINGTON, MIDDLE- SEX FELLS, and LYNN. From Copley Square, Boston, via Dartmouth St., and Com- monwealth Ave., at Charlesgate turn left at the Collins Monu- ment over R.R. into the Fenway. To the east is a notable group of buildings, successively: the Forsyth Dental Infirm- ary, the Fine Arts Museum, Fenway Court, the town residence of Mrs. Jack Gardner, a museum of art treasures, Simmons College, and the marble buildings of the Harvard Medical School. Grouped near the Harvard Medical School are also the Harvard Dental School, the Angell Memorial Hospital for Animals, the Peter Bent Brigham Hospital, and the Children's Hospital, all of monumental architecture. Architecturally significant is also the handsome educational group of public school buildings on the Tremont entrance of the Fens, near Fenway Court, the Boston Normal, with its "model school," and the Girls' Latin School. These, together with the fine continuing facades that include the buildings of the Massa- chusetts Historical Society and the Boston Medical Society at the Fenway and the Boylston Entrance, show that the archi- tectural opportunities of the Fens and the Riverway have been utilized to uncommon advantage. On the hill to the left the octagon dome and twin spires of the Mission Church are prominent. The Fenway is continued into the Riverway, which skirts a clear stream, formerly the tidal creek known as Muddy River, which gave its name to Brookline, Muddy River Hamlet. On the left of the River- way is Miss Wheelock's Kindergarten Training School, marked by a terra-cotta lunette over the doorway representing Froebel 476 BOSTON MILTON and a group of children. Still further on, also on the left, are the Psychopathic Hospital and the House of the Good Shepherd. Crossing Huntington Ave. (3.0), the route follows Jamaica- way past Leverett Pond and Jamaica Pond (4.0). On the north side of Jamaica Pond is Pine Bank, long the home of Commodore Perkins, of Civil War fame. The commodious brick mansion is now occupied by the Children's Museum. On the terrace is a beautiful fountain with the graceful bronze figure of a child, by Anne Whitney. On the south side of the Pond was the home of Francis Parkman, the historian. The site of his garden, where he cultivated his roses and irises, is marked by a memorial monument by Daniel C. French. Jamaicaway leads into the Arborway, which skirts on the right the Arnold Arboretum (4.5). This is the greatest institution of its kind in the world: a "tree museum" devoted to the cultivation of every species of tree and shrub that can nourish in this climate. It was established by a bequest of James Arnold, who left $100,000 to Harvard University for the pur- pose. Near the main entrance is the Arboretum Museum, which has an invaluable herbarium, a duplicate of the Jesup collection of American woods made by Professor Charles Sargent, director of the Arboretum, for the American Museum of Natural History in New York. By agreement between the university and the city of Boston the Arboretum was made available as a public park. The City of Boston took over the Arboretum and leased it back to the university for 999 years, retaining the maintenance of roads and paths and police super- vision. The plantations are arranged in botanical sequence, but with so little formality that the growth seems spontaneous. Hemlock Hill at the South St. entrance, beyond the Arboretum buildings, is the great landscape feature. On its northern slope is a growth of hemlock, the only piece of primeval forest within the city limits. Weld Hill, to the summit of which a driveway leads, commands a fine view toward the Blue Hills. This hill was selected by Washington as a point to fall back upon in case he were obliged to raise the siege of Boston. Just to the west outside the park, at the corner of Centre and Allan- dale Sts., stood the old Peacock Tavern, a favorite resort of Washing- ton during the siege, where John Hancock, when Governor of the Commonwealth,' used to live in the summer time. The slope of Weld Hill is bordered with seventy varieties of lilac which in the season of bloom presents a notable spectacle. Near the main drive on the slope is a group of ancient oaks, decrepit and dying when the Arboretum was taken in hand, but now flourishing youthfully, the result of skillful pollarding and treatment. Professor Charles Sprague Sargent, the Director of the Arboretum, played a large part in the development of Boston's Park System and in the awakening of the interest of the country to forestry. The new species introduced by the Arboretum from foreign lands, together with the hybridization thus made possible, have contributed to the horti- cultural and floricultural resources of the country. The Arborway leads to Forest Hills (5.5), where the route passes under the R.R. and elevated viaducts and crosses Wash- R. 21. ROUND ABOUT METROPOLITAN BOSTON 477 ington St.. following the boulevard to the entrance of Franklin Park (this road not open to automobiles). FRANKLIN PARK (537 acres) was named in honor of Benja- min Franklin. It was laid out on the plans of Frederick Law Olmsted. The "ante-park" is devoted to popular recreative features and the Country Park to rural scenery, ideally devel- oped. The landscape treatment is governed by the develop- ment of two noble views, one toward the Blue Hills, the other toward Bellevue Hill in West Roxbury. The Park contains six miles of drives, thirteen of walks. Glen Road (open to automobiles) carries traffic across the Park from Jamaica Plain. To the south, the predominating feature is an undulat- ing meadow, the golf links, surrounded by a circuit drive. Here is Schoolmaster's Hill, named in honor of Ralph Waldo Emerson and his brother. A tablet on a conglomerate boulder bears the inscription: "Near this rock, A.D. 1823-25, was the home of Schoolmaster Ralph Waldo Emerson. Here some of his earlier poems were written; among them that from which the following lines are taken: '"Oh, when I am safe in my sylvan home, I tread on the pride of Greece and Rome, And when I am stretched beneath the pines Where the evening star so holy shines, I laugh at the lore and the pride of man, At the sophist schools and the learned clan, For what are they all, in their high conceit, When man in the bush with God may meet?' " Other portions of the Park are the Playstead with its terrace over- look, and the long formal promenade, the Greeting. Near the Greet- ing is the Zoo with an exceptionally fine aviary. Mr. Olmsted selected many quaint old English names for the localities in the park. Scar- borough Hill commands a notable view. At the shady knoll called "Resting Place," the first military company formed in the colonies for resistance to British aggression rested while on its march home from the battles of Concord and Lexington. At the entrance to the park the route turns right and left into Morton St. which it follows, passing between the park on the left and Forest Hills Cemetery, one of the largest in New England, on the right. Crossing Canterbury St., it traverses the meadows near the Boston Asylum for the Insane, now a state institution, and crosses Blue Hill Ave. (7.8), along which pass Routes an, 31, and 32. Morton St. continues to 9.0 MILTON LOWER MILLS (R. 30, p 515). Note. From Milton Lower Mills a detour of ten miles addi- tional via Adams St. to Neponset, there crossing the river, leads lo the Quincy Shore Reservation at North Quincy and thence via the recently constructed Furnace Brook Parkway to Quincy, thence via Adams St. to the older section of the Parkway and so into the Blue Hills, joining the main route on Hillside St. (p 557). 478 MILTON WALTHAM From Milton Lower Mills the main route follows Route 31 (P 557)) along Randolph Ave., turning right on Hillside St. (12.0), entering the Blue Hills. To the right is an extensive view of Brush Hill (p 570) and beyond. THE BLUE HILLS are the highest land near the coast from Maine to Mexico, from Agamenticus near York, Me., to the Rio Grande. Geo- logically speaking, they are the worn-down stumps or roots of ancient mountains forming the southern boundary of the so-called Boston Basin. These eighteen or twenty rounded summits are the most prominent landscape features of the southern coast. From them the Massadchuset tribe along the Bay derived its name, signifying "near the great hills," which was transformed into Massachusetts by the English and applied to the Bay and the Colony. The name of Blue Hills was given the range by the early settlers. A tract of about four thousand acres was taken over by the State in 180,4 an( i is now a public park and forest reserve, containing deer and pheasants, under the name of the Blue Hills Reservation. The principal drives have recently been opened to automobiles. Foot- paths and trails lead all through the Reservation and the natural beauties of the spot have been carefully conserved. Great Blue Hill (635 ft) commands a magnificent view, embracing a circuit of more than 150 miles. The ascent is made from Hillside St., via the Wild- cat Notch trail, or better from Canton Ave. (R. 32, p 572). The Rotch Meteorological Observatory on its summit, a familiar object for miles around, was erected in 1884 by the late Professor A. Lawrence Rotch of Milton, who bequeathed funds for its continuance. It is now connected with Harvard University. The upper atmosphere has been investigated by means of captive kites carrying instruments to an altitude of from one to two miles. After passing the Reservation Headquarters and Hoosick- whisick or Houghton's Pond, where Ralph Houghton settled in 1690 on an old Indian planting ground, the route skirts Marigold Valley at the foot of Hancock Hill, named in the days when Governor John Hancock ordered its wood to be cut and given to the shivering poor of Boston. Further on is the Forbes Stock Farm where Nancy Hanks and many other thor- oughbreds have spent a comfortable old age. Rounding the steep slope of the great Blue Hill the route enters Canton Ave. (16.0), turning left. A mile beyond, at the outskirts of Ponka- Pg (P 573) it turns right again on Green Lodge St. The route crosses the meadows of the Neponset river beneath a mile-long arch of luxuriant willows. To the left is Purgatory swamp, a mecca for botanists today, but once "dismal places and resorts of wild beasts." Beyond, the route crosses R.R. near the hamlet of Endicott and enters East St., passing the old Fairbanks House (p 201). 23.0 DEDHAM (p 198). From Dedham keep straight along High St. to NEEDHAM (27.0; R. 24, p 496). The route continues straight ahead on Great Plain Ave., following trolley to R. 21. ROUND ABOUT METROPOLITAN BOSTON 479 30.5 WELLESLEY (R. 24, p 484}. Turn right with trolley and follow Central St., bearing left into Washington St. to WELLESLEY HILLS (32.0), and 33.0 NEWTON LOWER FALLS. This is an industrial village at the falls of the Charles. Crossing the river, turn square left along Grove St. to AUBUEN- DALE (35.0). To the left is Riverside, a popular canoeing center. Bear slightly left along Auburn St., across R.R., then right on Freeman St., crossing Commonwealth Ave. To the left is Norumbega Park, an amusement resort on the river- bank opposite Norumbega Tower (p 148). The route follows Lexington St., with trolley, again crossing the Charles. 37.0 WALTHAM. Pop (1910) 27,834, (1915) 30,047. Middlesex Co. Inc. 1738. Indian name Quinrobin. Mfg. watches, watch and clock accessories, automobiles, carriages, bicycles, canoes, foundry and machine shop products, and musical instruments. Value of Product (1913), $11,571,000; Pay- roll, $4,232,000. Waltham is a manufacturing town best known as the home of modern watch making. It was here that machine-made watches were first manufactured. The factories of the Wal- tham Watch Company are on the opposite side of the Charles river. The works of the E. Howard Watch Company are also in Waltham. There are several plants accessory to the industry, the American Watch Tool Company, and the O'Hara Waltham Dial Company. Main Street (R. i, p 149) was the Old Post Road, originally called the County Road and later the Sudbury Road. On Main St., eastward, near the Wat ertown line, is the Gov- ernor Gore house, on the left. It is a handsome brick residence, erected by Christopher Gore, Washington's friend, Governor of the Commonwealth, who gave Harvard University the old library building, Gore Hall, now demolished. The estate of Miss Cornelia Warren is renowned for its maze, a labyrinth of thick arbor vitae hedge, a reproduction of the famous one made for Cardinal Wolsey at Hampton Court. At Waltham, Beaver Brook flows into the Charles. The first men- tion of this region in history occurs in the journal of Governor Winthrop, Jan. 27, 1632: "The Governor and some company with him went up Charles River, about eight miles above Watertown, and named the first brook, on the north side of the river, Beaver Brook, because the beavers had shorn down great trees there and made divers dams across the brook. Thence they went to a great rock upon which stood a high stone, cleft asunder, that four men might go through, which they called Adam's chair, because the youngest of their company was Adam Winlhrop. Thence they came to another brook, greater than the former, which they called Masters Brook, because the eldest of their company was one John Masters." This latter is the present Stony Brook. Originally part of Watertown this was known as the Further Plain or 480 WALTHAM BOSTON the Great Plain. The first grant of 500 acres was made to John Old- ham, an adventurer, a convivial sort of chap, and one of the compan- ions at " Merry Mount." In 1636 while trading in his pinnace at Block Island he was killed by the Indians, but was avenged by John Gallop, in what has been called the first American sea fight. These incidents were the direct cause of the Pequot War. The Waltham Watch Industry began in Roxbury in 1850, but was transferred to Waltham in 1854 under the name of the Boston Watch Company. The company failed in 1857 and the American Watch Company was formed. Since they have been able to keep a high tariff on imported watches their difficulties seem to have been greatly lessened. All the parts are machine made. Output one million a year. Half a mile east of the center of Waltham on Main St. avoid R.R. crossing, taking the first turn to the left, with trolley, Linden St., which leads into Trapelo Road to the Waver! ey Oaks (42.5), in Beaver Brook Reservation. From the road these oaks, though perhaps a thousand years old, are not especially impressive. They stand on a ridge, or esker. On the hill to the left above are the beautiful grounds of the McLean Asylum for the Insane, established 1848, the first institution of the sort in the country. Continuing through BELMONT (44.0), the route follows Pleasant St., to Arlington. To the right about Spy Pond is a great market-garden section with hundreds of acres under glass. At 152 Pleasant St., set somewhat back and overlook- ing Spy Pond, is the home of the late John T. Trowbridge, author of "Darius Green" and "Cudjo's Cave," and friend of the great New England literary group of 50 years ago. He sang the praise of this road: "It winds between Broad slopes of green, Wood-mantled and shaggy highland And shores that rise From the lake, which lies Below, with its one fair island. So here, well back From the shaded track, By the curve of its greenest crescent, Today I swing In my hammock and sing The praise of the street named Pleasant." ARLINGTON CENTER (42.5). Turn right on Massachusetts Ave., left at the Old Cooper Tavern (1796), and right into the Mystic Valley Parkway to MEDFORD (44.5; p 600). The route turns left along Forest St. with trolley through MIDDLESEX FELLS. It consists essentially of a broad plateau thrust south from Stone- ham between the valleys of the Aberjona and Maiden rivers, a surface minutely broken into small hills and vales. It is a region of hard rocks which preserves in many portions the level of the original pene- plain (p 24). The larger part was acquired by the Metropolitan Park Commissioners in February, 1894. The name was adopted at the sug- R. 21. ROUND ABOUT METROPOLITAN BOSTON 481 gestion of Sylvester Baxter. He wrote: "The nature of this region cannot be better characterized than by the application of the old Saxon designation fells, a common enough word in England, meaning a tract of wild stone hills, corresponding to the German word 'felsen.'" The route lies northward skirting the shore of Spot Pond. Note. Perhaps the more attractive way is by the Woodland Road forking to the right of the pond, and leading to Saugus. On the right are the buildings of the New England Sani- tarium; at the foot of the hill, the high-service pumping sta- tion. Further along is the Middlesex Fells Zoo. At the left is Bear Hill with a new concrete observatory (340 ft). STONEHAM (49.0; p 510). Turn right, into Franklin St. with trolley. MELROSE (51.5). Continue east on Green St., following trolley, bearing right into Main St. The lefthand road leads to Lynn Woods (R. 34). 54.5 SAUGUS. Alt 20 ft. Pop 8047 (1910), 10,226 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1629. Indian name, meaning "extended." Mfg. brick, rubber goods, spices, and woolens. Off the main routes of travel, it has passed through the cen- turies but little changed. There are many old Colonial houses standing with projecting upper stories. On the river is a curious old tidal mill which still grinds spices. Saugus was the site of the first iron works in the colonies. A pile of slag near the center of the town still marks where the foundries stood in 1639. Nearby, at 137 Central St., is the so-called Iron Works House with huge chimney and projecting upper story (1648), recently acquired by Mr. Wal- lace Nutting for restoration. (Adm. 25 cents.) Beside the road is the old Seminary building, where the first girls' school in America was started in 1822. At Monument Square bear right with trolley, crossing R.R. and forking right. At the wooden church (55.8), bear right, away from trolley, and turn left (56.5) across the Saugus river. Follow Western Ave., crossing Market Square (57.5) and fork right along North Common St., straight ahead to Broad St. LYNN (59.0; R. 36, p 630). At Washington Square fork right into Market St. and turn square right at end of street on State Boulevard to Revere Beach at 65.0. Cross R.R. con- tinuing through Chelsea (68.0) to MEDFORD (69.0; p 600). At the end of Parkway bear left on Fellsway crossing Broadway (70.0) and following Walnut St. and Grove St. to Union Square, SOMERVILLE (71.0; p 509). Continue straight ahead to R.R. bridge, forking on bridge into Prospect St., away from trolley. At Central Square, Cambridge (72.0; p 463), turn left on Massachusetts Ave., across Harvard Bridge to 74.5 BOSTON (R. 20, p 451). ROUTES OUT OF OSTON eP.E.SARGENT (482) R. 22. BOSTON to PLYMOUTH. 41.5 m. Via QUINCY, WEYMOUTH, and HANOVER. This route is shorter though not so attractive as Route 30, which it follows as far as Quincy (13.0). From Quincy con- tinue past the Stone Temple along Quincy St. to 16.0 WEYMOUTH. Alt 60 ft. Pop (twp) 12,895 (1910), 13,696 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1622. Indian name Wessa- gusset. Mfg. shoes, paper boxes, fertilizers, and acids. Weymouth was one of the original shoe towns and still is the home of several factories, including the "Stetson," the Clapp Brothers, and the Walker, Strong, and Carroll plants. The township contains five separate villages, none of surpassing interest. Summer cottages are numerous on the shore line and in South Weymouth. At North Weymouth, still known as "Old Spain," in 1622 one Thomas Weston, a London merchant of apparently good repute, es- tablished a plantation. The company was. somewhat disorderly, and was piratical in intent if not in deed. Their brutal conduct led the Indians to plot their slaughter, which was only frustrated by Miles Standish's foresight and energy. A few inhabitants lingered here and the town was incorporated in 1635. By 1870 the Weymouths had become an important shoe center with more than forty factories, large and small, since mostly absorbed by Brockton. Its earlier industry is apparent from the jingle: " Cohasset for beauty, Hingham for pride, If not for its herring Weymouth had died." At the farther end of the village the route forks left away from the trolley, following the Queen Anne turnpike across Whitman Pond and through Lovell Corners and Queen Anne's Corner (20.5; p 526) beside Accord Pond. At the triple fork here continue straight ahead through the hamlet of ASSINIPPI (22.5) and beside Herring Brook to 26.5 HANOVER. Alt 60 ft. Pop (twp) 2326 (1910), 2666 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1649. Mfg. fireworks, nails, and rubber goods. The village is pleasantly situated on rising ground above North River, where formerly there were shipyards. At the ancient forges here the anchors of the "Constitution" were made and also the first cast-iron plows. Continuing southeast through the adjacent hamlet of North Pembroke, above Herring Brook Swamp, the route passes through West Duxbury (31.5) to KINGSTON (37.0), where it follows Route 30 (p 536) to 41.5 PLYMOUTH. (483) R. 23. BOSTON to BRIDGEWATER. 105.0 m. . Returning via WALPOLE and NORWOOD. This route follows Route 22 (p 482) to Weymouth (16.0). At the end of the village fork right with trolley. SOUTH WEYMOUTH (19.0) is one of the larger villages of Weymouth township. At Hay ward's Quarry are found huge fossil trilobites (p 27). ^Continuing through North Abington, the home of John L. Sullivan (22.5), the route enters 24.0 ABINGTON. Alt 80 ft. Pop (twp) 5455 (1910), 5646 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1648. Indian name Manamoos- keagin, "many beavers." Mfg. shoes and shoe stock. Abington, North Abington, Rockland, and Whitman form one of the principal industrial centers of the Brockton shoe belt. 25.5 WHITMAN. Alt 75 ft. Pop (twp) 7292 (1910), 7520 (1915). Plymouth Co. Inc. 1886. Mfg. shoes, shoe stock, and nails. In addition to the shoe industry nail-making has long been carried on here. The route continues to East Bridgewater (28.5) and Bridgewater (31.5), on Route 31 (p 550). , The route forks right, following a State Road through 34.5 RAYNHAM. Alt SO ft. Pop 1725 (1910), 1810 (1916). Bristol Co. Settled 1650. Indian name Cohanit or Hockamock. Iron-working was begun here by the Leonards in 1652 and carried on by that family for more than a century. As King Philip obtained weapons from the forges he protected them. Turning right from Main St. on Broadway fork left on Washington St. away from trolley, joining it again on Bay St. and leaving it on the left fork just beyond. Crossing wooden bridge (40.0), follow Basset St., through NORTON (46.5), allied to Attleboro in the jewelry industry. It is also the seat of Wheaton College, for the education of girls. 50.0 MANSFIELD. Alt 178 ft. Pop (twp) 5183 (1910), 5772 (1915). Bristol Co. Inc. 1775. Mfg. chocolate, straw hats, taps and dies, jewelry, small tools, and baskets. Mansfield is dominated by the Lowney Chocolate factories. The employees have 'model' homes, athletic fields, clubs, and a cooperative bank. Their model farm also supplies the milk used in the chocolate. From Mansfield cross R.R. by the station and follow trolley. 5J.5 FOXBORO. Alt 296 ft. Pop (twp) 3863 (1910), 3755 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1778. Mfg. straw hats and steam fittings. The straw industry has long been the principal business of the village. Following the trolley past the Common, at West Foxboro (54.5) fork left to WRENTHAM (58.5), joining Route 1 (p 106), which leads back to BOSTON (84.5). An optional route leads via Franklin (p 218) and Route 3, to Framingham. (484) R. 24. BOSTON to WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, and GRAFTON. 86.5 m. Returning via MEDWAY, DOVER, and NEEDHAM. This route leads through some of the most delightful inland country in the vicinity of Boston, a region largely pre-empted for residential estates. The development of this region by Boston people in the last decade since the advent of the auto- mobile has been rapid and continuous, promoted largely by the completion some twenty-five years ago of the Common- wealth Avenue Boulevard, which offers perhaps the best en- trance and exit to and from Boston. The route leaves Boston by way of Commonwealth Ave., along which for two miles are the Boston headquarters of the principal automobile firms. The Avenue traverses the Brighton district. To the right is Allston, and the Harvard Stadium. Skirting the parked shores of Chestnut Hill Reservoir, on the left are the new buildings and notable tower of Boston College. Further on, the Braeburn Country Club with its golf links is on the left. At Washington St., before reaching the center of Auburndale, turn left, passing the Woodland Park Hotel. Note. Just before reaching Newton Lower Falls, Quinna- bequin Road, on the left, leads in three miles to Newton Upper Falls. This attractive highway, which belongs to the Metro- politan Park System, runs for the most part along the banks of the Charles river. Washington Street crosses the R.R. and iron bridge over the Charles river, entering 11.5 NEWTON LOWER FALLS. (Part of Newton.) Newton Lower Falls was one of the earliest manufacturing centers in America. Iron works were established here as early as 1703 and soon afterward mills were built at the falls of the Charles, trans- forming the little settlement into a thriving industrial village. One of the first paper mills in the United States was erected here in 1790, and sawmills, clothing and shoddy mills were prosperous during the first half of the nineteenth century. Although the place has lost much of its former importance there are still several factories. To the right is Concord Street, connecting with Norumbega and Weston. On the brow of Concord Street Hill stands St. Mary's Episcopal Church (1814), half-hidden by trees. The main entrance to Echo Bridge is from Ellis St., out of Boylston St., near the river. From the village a guide board shows a plank walk between two houses which leads to the top of the bridge. Below the great stone arch there is a remark- able echo. The rocky gorge with its hemlock growth and the river forms one of the most romantic spots of the Charles, the Hemlock Gorge Reservation, smallest of the park reserves. (485) 486 NEWTON LOWER FALLS WELLESLEY The brick mill is one of the oldest in New England. Echo Bridge carries the Sudbury aqueduct of the Boston water system across the river. On the right just after crossing the river is the site of a famous old tavern of Revolutionary days. Sam Lawton, the wellknown character of Harriet Beecher Stowe's "Old Town Folks" and "Sam Lawson's Fireside Stories," was the black- smith here for a time. The route continues up a long hill lined with suburban estates through Wellesley Farms; passing the Wellesley Hills Congregational Church on the right, and keeping left at iron water trough in fork, the route enters 12.5 WELLESLEY HILLS. (Part of Wellesley.} At Wellesley Hills we pass on the left the compiling offices of the Roger W. Babson Statistical Organization, of nation- wide reputation. Here statistics are assorted and conclu- sions deduced therefrom which are eagerly read by the leading bankers, merchants, and investors. These deductions are based on Nature's law, that, as all action is followed by equal reaction, it is necessary only to know the past in order to fore- ,cast the future. Of late years this region has had a rapid development as a center of suburban homes. Continuing we follow the single track trolley directly to 14.0 WELLESLEY. Alt 140ft. Pop (twp) 5413 (1910), 6439 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1640. Wellesley is famous as the home of Wellesley College and for its group of pretentious country estates. Incorporated in 1 88 1 it was named from the extensive estate of the Welles family which came into the possession of Mr. H. H. Hunnewell. Before coming to the Public Library, on the right is the little brown house which was formerly the dwelling of Dr. Morton, the discoverer of ether. The little cupola room was Dr. Morton's laboratory, and there, it is said, some of his most important experiments were made on his dog. On a knoll a little beyond, shaded by trees, are the Town Hall and Public Library building, the gift of Mr. H. H. Hunnewell. From the road they have the air of private mansions more than public buildings. To the north is a large tract of forest extending into Weston and known as "The Hundreds." To the left of the village, on Grove St., on both sides of the road are the buildings of Dana Hall, a leading preparatory school for girls. Further along on this same road is Ridge Hill with Ridge Hill Farm in the vicinity. This estate ac- quired notoriety under a former owner, William Emerson Baker, who had made a fortune in sewing machines. Here R. 24. BOSTON, WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, GRAFTON 487 he gave sumptuous fetes featured by "surprises" for his guests in which trap doors, secret passageways in the garden, and the like, played a part. Now the garden is a ruin, but tall pillars, archways, portions of tunnels, and grotesque faces on the walls can still be seen. From Wellesley Square the main route follows Central St., direct with the trolley, to Natick and Framingham. The detour via South Natick is much more attractive. Leaving Wellesley Square the route passes on the right the railway station and a short distance beyond on the left, the Hunnewell School and a small stone building, a model kinder- garten under the supervision of Wellesley College to which children of the town are admitted. Beyond is Fisk Cottage, a dormitory for Wellesley students who partially work their way. Those wishing to visit the grounds may enter by a road a short distance beyond the Observatory, at the further corner of which stands a stone house, the North Lodge. The Quadrangle, familiarly known as the 'Quad,' is a group of brick dormitories attractively situated about a court facing the road just beyond. Further along are the athletic fields and the Mary Hemenway Gymnasium, formerly the Boston Normal School of Gymnastics, but now permanently connected with the college. Upon entering the grounds across the meadow the Shakespeare House is on the right, and above on the hill overlooking the lake are the new buildings erected on the site of College Hall, burned in the spring of 1914. These are the buildings for which the college girls and alumnae raised the $1,000,000 with which to supplement the Rockefeller Fund. On the left is a group of dormit ories on the hill and the Farns- worth Art Building, the gift of Isaac D. Farnsworth of Boston. To the right is the Library and beside it the Music Hall, beyond which is the Memorial Chapel, in which is the memorial to Alice Freeman Palmer. Scattered about are attractive little fraternity houses. Stone Hall faces the lake, and at the left is the Barn, where all entertainments are given. Wellesley College was founded in 1875 by Henry Fowle Durant, a prominent Boston lawyer. The old College Hall was the original building and it was here that Alice Freeman Palmer did so much early work. The faculty and the board of trustees are composed of both men and women. There are now about 1500 students in attendance. Detour to South Natick and Natick. 4.0 m. Keeping to the right, leave the college grounds on Washing- ton St., lined on either side by the Hunnewell, Shaw, and Sargent estates. On the right among the trees is the square brown house occupied by Mrs. Durant, the widow of the founder of Wellesley. Further on, to the right, is the huge white residence erected by H. H. Hunnewell. The grounds WELLESLEY NATICK are usually open to the public and well repay a visit, as the place is justly renowned as one of the most beautiful in the vicinity of Boston. The grounds adjoin those of Wellesley College and include a good deal of the shore of Lake Waban. In this "private arboretum" there are about 300 specimens of cone-bearing trees. Special objects of interest are the Italian garden on the lake, with the pavilion, the pine walk, and the rhododendron and azalea gardens. The town bears ample evidence of the liberality of the Hunnewell family, especially of Horatio Hollis Hunnewell. Mr. Hunnewell, a member of the old Cambridge family, en- tered the Welles banking house in Paris in 1826, where he laid the foundation of his fortune. This he further increased in 1835 by marrying Isabella Welles, daughter of John Welles of West Needham (Wellesley), and niece of Samuel Welles, the Paris banker. Mrs. Hunnewell inherited the large Welles estate here and her husband added much to it from time to time. It has been partly subdivided among the children of Mr. Hunnewell, the Shaws, and the Sargents. On the left just before reaching South Natick lies Elm Bank, the beautiful Cheney estate, now the residence of the William H. Baltzells. The Charles river winds through t he- grounds. Benjamin P. Cheney was a pioneer in the express business of America and transcontinental railways. The new brick house built by Dr. W. H. Baltzell, who married Miss Cheney, can be partly discerned through the trees. Some of the great elms are supposed to have been brought from Newton and planted by Eliot's Indians. SOUTH NATICK (2.0), a quiet old village, is the scene of the Apostle Eliot's Indian Plantation and the "Old Town" of Harriet Beecher Stowe. The parish received the name, Natick, when in 1650 it was granted to John Eliot for his "praying Indians." At the fork in the road stands the venerable old oak under which Eliot first preached to the Indians and later inspired Longfellow's sonnet. In 1651 the first meeting house was completed. The present Eliot Unitarian Church is the fifth on the site and was erected in 1828. For more than half a cen- tury the "plantation" remained a self-governing Indian community. Eliot had drawn up an ingenious form of government, the essential feature of which was that most of the land was held in common. The old Indian burial ground was on the southern slope of the hill, and a number of interesting relics, such as axes, knives, and cooking uten- sils, have been exhumed here and are now in the Historical Museum. In 1718 the first white settler arrived and from then on the Indians were gradually displaced. South Natick, or Old Town, was a pros- perous country village during the eighteenth century, and a number of the houses date from that period. A short distance beyond the Eliot oak at the road forks is the Old Natick Inn, a favorite hostelry of the quieter sort. It R. 24. BOSTON, WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, GRAFTON 489 stands on the site of the Eliakim Morill Tavern, a wellknown house of Revolutionary days. Professor Calvin E. Stowe, D.D., was born here in 1802. According to himself he was "chiefly known as the husband of his wife." He desired to have his wife write a story about his native town, and accord- ingly Harriet Beecher Stowe came here in 1863 with her husband to gather material for "Old Town Folks." During their visit the Stowes stayed at the so-called White House. All of the characters in the novel were taken more or less faith- fully from the people of this little village who came under Mrs. Stowe's observation. The famous story-teller Sam Lawson was Samuel Lawton, whose house stands on Eliot St. between the Parson Lothrop house and the tavern site. The Rev. Stephen Badger, who came to South Natick as its pastor in 1753, is the Parson Lothrop of "Old Town." The Parson Lothrop house, built in 1753, is a splendid old Colonial resi- dence, now owned by Arthur Hunnewell. In front of the house is a large elm, one of the surviving "Friendship Elms" planted by the Indians to signify their good-will toward the minister. Not far away is the old cemetery with several quaint tombstones. At the center of the Common is the Eliot monument, to the left on Eliot St. is the Bacon Free Library and in it the Historical Museum. From here Union Street leads directly to the main route at Natick (4.0). From Wellesley Square the main route follows trolley to 17.0 NATICK. Alt 158 ft. Pop (twp) 9866 (1910), 11,119 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1660. Indian name, "a place of hills." Mfg. shoes, shirts, and baseballs. This town had its origin in 1660 as a plantation for John Eliot's "praying Indians" (see above, South Natick). Dur- ing the last century this portion of the town became a thriving manufacturing center while the original settlement at South Natick remained a quiet village community. It is just far enough removed from Boston to be a mercantile center in kself and it is the distributing center for a number of outlying towns. The annual value of factory products is about $4,000,000, of which shoes constitute two thirds. The growing of flowers under glass is an important local industry, in fact, Natick is one of the largest centers in this country for the cultivation of roses. The Waban Conserva- tories, a corporation run by Alexander Montgomery, has twelve acres of hot-houses warmed by forty miles of pipe and covered by 400,000 square feet of glass, and pays a fifth of the entire water tax of the town. It supplies Boston, New York, and other large centers and has introduced many famous varieties 4QO NATICK SOUTHBORO of roses to America. The wellknown Walnut Hill School, for girls, is situated on the hill north of the town. Proceeding on the direct road to Framingham, at West Natick the route passes the little Henry Wilson shop, where the "Natick Cobbler" learned his trade as a shoemaker. Henry Wilson (1812-75) was bound as an apprentice to a New Hampshire farmer until he was twenty-one years old. He then came to Natick with eighty dollars in his pocket to learn the trade of cobbler. By 1855 he had become a U.S. Senator and was prominent in the war legislation under Lincoln; in 1872 he became Vice-President. Upon his death, according to Whittier, he "left the world as poor as he entered it." There are some fine farms in the vicinity, notably that of John Hopewell, who has successfully solved the problem of growing alfalfa and cuts it at the rate of eleven tons to the acre, feeding it green to his fifty-five choice Guernsey cows. The route now skirts Lake Cochituate, still an important part of the Boston Metropolitan Water System. The lake stretches three miles northward into Framingham and Way- land, and has an area of 900 acres with a watershed of 19 square miles. Work on the reservoir was begun in 1846, Josiah Quincy of Boston lifting the first spadeful of earth. Its capacity is 1,500,000,000 gallons. The water runs from here through a brick aqueduct about fourteen miles long to the Chestnut Hill Reservoir, crossing the Charles river by means of an inverted siphon of iron pipes. Two and a half miles off the State Road between the northern end of the lake and Lake Dudley, on the line of the old Connecticut trail, is the Mansion Inn, which occupies the old Simpson estate of one hundred acres and is a favorite resort for motorists. 20.5 FRAMINGHAM. Alt 199 ft. Pop (twp) 12,948 (1910), 15,860 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1700. Mfg. tags and paper specialties, straw hats, liniment, rubber goods, shoes, lasts, and boilers. Framingham, formerly known as South Framingham, has so grown in importance through the multiplication of its indus- trial establishments that it has dropped the "South" and is now known as Framingham. The older portion of the town, to the north, Framingham Center, is a quiet residential quar- ter for Boston business men. To the northeast within the township lies the hamlet of Saxonville, where the Sudbury river furnishes waterpower for the manufacture of worsteds and carpet yarns. The Saxonville Mills are the oldest manu- facturing plant in " the Framinghams." The Dennison Manufacturing Company, the "tag people" who "produce everything made of paper," is the dominating R. 24. BOSTON, WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, GRAFTON 491 industry. Begun by Andrew Dennison, then a shoemaker in Brunswick, Me., with the making of jewelers' cardboard boxes, it is today a $5,600,000 corporation with 2800 employees. The company operates under an 'industrial partnership' plan; some 200 employees will eventually control the business. The first land grants in this region were made about 1640, one of them to President Dunster of Harvard College. A town was incor- porated at the Center in 1700. The surrounding country is most attractive, including many of the lakes and rivers of the Metropolitan Water System. Nobscot Mountain (648 ft) to the north is the high- est elevation between the Blue Hills and Mount Wachusett. On the summit is an Indian cairn. Nobscot spring water is bottled near here and supplied to Boston and vicinity. From Framingham the route turns northward along Union Ave., between Farm and Learned Ponds. A mile to the right are the camp grounds of the Massachusetts State Militia. FRAMINGHAM CENTER (22.5) is a quiet village in striking contrast to its busy industrial daughter to the south. There are some fine modern residences in the region about here, and the Framingham Country Club is a center for the social life of this region and has a good golf course. Its club house dates from 1693 and contains a chimney with a 'hiding-hole' from Indians in its center. The State Normal School, the oldest in the country, was established in Lexington in 1839 and removed to this town in 1853. Wallace Nutting's studio employs scores of helpers in the making of colored platinotypes of Colonial houses, interiors, and the like. Mr. Nutting owns and maintains a chain of fine old Colonial houses through New England. On the western outskirts of the town the Danforth School, for young boys, occupies a fine old estate. The route crosses the trolley and follows Pleasant St., a winding macadam road skirting a series of reservoirs belonging to the Metropolitan Water System. Approaching Southboro the road crosses one arm of Reservoir Number Five, one of the largest in this region, some four miles in length, created in 1892 by overflowing a great region of lowland. 27.5 SOUTHBORO. Alt 314 ft. Pop (twp) 1745 (1910), 1898 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1727. Mfg. shoes and woolens. Southboro is best known as the home of St. Mark's School and for its productive model farms. Much of its educational and agricultural success is due to the Burnett family. In 1847 Joseph Burnett bought the land now known as Deerfoot Farm and commenced farming upon scientific methods. He imported a herd of Jersey cattle in 1854, one of the first to be brought to this country, and in 1872 began to sell Deerfoot Farm products, which today are familiar to the housewives of Greater Boston. The first successful cream separator resulted 492 SOUTHBORO GRAFTON from experiments made here by a German inventor and the Hon. Edward Burnett. The model dairy is worth a visit for those interested in the subject. James Russell Lowell spent some of his last days at Deerfoot Farm as the guest of his son- in-law, Edward Burnett. St. Mark's School stands on rising ground to the right. The main building, of half timber construction, is built about an open quadrangle facing the south. The chapel was given by August Belmont as a memorial to his brother Raymond Rogers Belmont. Rev. Robert Traill Spence Lowell, the elder brother of James, was the third master of the school. The scene of his "Antony Brade," a book for boys, is laid at St. Mark's. Southboro Arms, an attractive inn to accommodate guests of St. Mark's, the Fay School, and motorists, is on the right of the road in the village. The Fay School, founded in 1866 by Mrs. Eliza Burnett Fay and Miss Harriet Burnett to prepare young boys for St. Mark's, occupies an attractive Colonial house, a part of the old Burnett estate, on the left of the road. The town of Southboro was taken from the southern section of Marlboro and was named accordingly. The rich soil led the Marl- boro settlers to use this territory for their "cow commons." In 1732 Southboro was called before a grand jury at Worcester to answer to the charge of "having kept no public school," and forthwith two school masters were appointed at six pounds and four pounds six shillings per year respectively. The Episcopal parish of Southboro has in the last half century, through the interest of wealthy parish- ioners, spread church influence through the surrounding towns. Mis- sions went out first to Marlboro and Hopkinton and through the interest of St, Mark's boys to Westboro. The one in Marlboro received in 1888 a building from Montgomery Sears, a Southboro resident. 33.5 WESTBORO. Alt 298ft. Pop (twp) 5446 (1910), 5925 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1717. Mfg. straw goods, underwear, and muslin curtains. Facing the elm-shaded common, on which is the Soldiers' Monument, are the old Meeting House and the Town Hall. In the old days Brigham's Tavern, now the Westboro Hotel, was a house of good cheer famous for its mulled wine, prepared as follows: a quart of hot Madeira, half a pint of boiling water, six eggs beaten to a froth, and the whole sweetened and spiced. To the north of the village are the State reformatory on the shores of Lake Chauncey, known as the Lyman School for Boys, and the Westboro Insane Hospital. In 1846 a reform school for boys was established on the beautiful northern slope of the lake and largely endowed by General Theodore Lyman. In 1885 the buildings of the school were occupied by the insane hospital and the school rebuilt across the lake on the site of the first meeting house. The Whitney place, long the most imposing dwelling in West- boro, was the scene of William Dean Howells' "Annie Kilburn." R. 24. BOSTON, WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, GRAFTON 493 Eli Whitney (1765-1825), the inventor of the cotton gin, was born in a farmhouse, no longer standing, two miles west of the village on the Grafton road. Whitney's gin made possible the great cotton industry of the South, and a contemporary authority declared that it trebled the value of southern cotton lands. Note. A good road leads northwest through Wessonville to Northboro, joining Route i (p 142), which offers a return to Boston. Like the other "boro" towns in the vicinity Westboro is an offshoot of Marlboro, which was settled from Sudbury in 1660. The mother town has continued pre-eminent and is the manufacturing center today, while the various offshoots, including Westboro, remain essen- tially quiet country towns in the midst of rich farming lands. For many years after its foundation Westboro continued to be a frontier town, and in 1724 when the Rev. Ebenezer Parkman took up his duties as minister he came "a long day's journey from Boston," and reach- ing his parish on horseback, walked to the meeting house pistol in hand for fear of wild beasts and Indians. Westboro was the one hundredth town incorporated in Massachusetts. Mrs. Harriette Forbes' volume "The Hundredth Town" contains many interesting local details. In 1828 the manufacture of shoes was begun here, and straw sewing was carried on extensively by the middle of the century. There are still important straw factories located here. 41.5 GRAFTON. Alt 485 ft. Pop (twp) 5705 (1910), 6250 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1728. Indian name Hasanamisco, "place of small stones." Mfg. shoes, cotton, and woolens. Grafton is a picturesque old town on the summit of a hill; the church spire emerging from the trees is visible for miles around. The Blackstone river and its tributaries furnish the power for a number of mills here and at North Grafton. The Grafton Hunt Club at North Grafton, the first country club about Worcester and one of the best known in New England, was founded in 1895 by Harry Worcester Smith, Rockwood Hoar, Frank L. Hale, and other Worcester County gentlemen interested in sport. There are frequent meets in the autumn for fox hunting. The club land, with the adjoin- ing estates of members, occupies 2500 acres. The unpreten- tious club house, unseen from the road, is reached by a private road through the woods. Mr. Smith's estate, Lordvale, of 600 acres adjoining the club grounds, is said to be one of the most beautiful in the State. In the western portion of the park beside the Millbury road are the kennels and stables for the Grafton Hounds, whose name and fame are international, having been maintained as a private pack for twenty years. They won the great International English-American Match in Virginia in 1905, beating a pack of English hounds, the prop- erty of A. Henry Higginson, master of the Middlesex Hunt. Mr. Smith is Master of the Hounds and hunted this pack in Ireland where he was master of the Westmeath Pack, 1912-13. 494 GRAFTON MILFORD On Brigham Hill is the Brigham farm with a house two cen- turies old. The estate has always continued in the Brigham family and in the house is preserved the original Indian grant. The view from the hill is very extensive, sweeping beyond Worcester over the intervening hills and valleys to Mt. Wa- chusett and more distant points. (Afternoon tea can be obtained here during the summer months.) Route 19 (p 444), from Providence to Worcester, New Hampshire, and Vermont, passes through Grafton. In 1651 John Eliot established his third band of "praying Indians" at a native village on this site, which continued to prosper for half a century or more. Major Daniel Gookin, who visited Grafton in 1674 in company with the Indian Apostle, says: "This village is not inferior unto any of the Indian plantations for rich land and plenty of meadow, being well tempered and watered. It is an apt place for keeping of cattle and swine; in which respect this people are the best stored of any Indian town of their size. Their ruler is named Ana- weakin, a sober and discreet man. Their teacher's name is Tack- uppawillin, his brother, a pious and able man, and apt to teach. Their aged father, whose name I remember not, is a grave and sober Christian, and deacon of the church. They have a brother, that lives in the town, called James, that was bred among the English, and employed as a pressman in printing the Indian Bible; who can read well, and, as I take it, write also. . . . This is a hopeful plantation." The ancient Indian burial place here still yields a few arrow heads and stone mortars. In 1728 residents of Marlboro, Sudbury, Concord, and Stow with the permission of the General Court bought 7500 acres of land from the Indians, agreeing to maintain a church and school of which the Indians should have free use. The town was incor- porated in 1735 and named in honor of the Duke of Grafton. From the five corners, Grafton, leave Post Office and Park on left, cross high-speed trolky and follow direct route, with line of poles, through West Upton. This region is a wooded hilly country in the upper watershed of the Blackstone river. Keeping right with trolley at the iron water trough in the fork, turn left with trolley at the next fork through UPTON (47.5). Leaving the park on the left, turn right with trolley, following the "Milford" signs. 54.0 MILFORD (R. 3, p 219). The three towns of Milford, Hopedale, and Mendon form almost a unit. MENDON, to the southwest, was the mother town of the other two. An oldtime versifier thus celebrated the relations of old Mendon and her daughter towns: "Let Milford boast of boots and shoes, Of choicest kinds of leather; And Upton girls grow rich as Jews On bonnet, band, and feather: Northbridge and Uxbridge thrive and grow On cotton, steam, and water; While Blackstone spreads her branches so, Though she's the youngest daughter. R. 24. BOSTON, WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, GRAFTON 495 Old Mendon yet shall raise her head; She is not dead, but sleepeth: She yet remains the old homestead; The fathers' dust she keepeth." The remarkable personality of Adin Ballou, founder of the "Hopedale Community," united them in a religious sense, and for the last half century they have been closely connected industrially by the great plant of the Draper Company at Hopedale. At Mendon is Resthaven, a school for girls. HOPEDALE, in the "dale" between Milford and Mendon, has a wide reputation as a model town. Most of the operatives live in cottages surrounded by lawns and gardens, for 'tene- ments,' in the usually accepted sense of the term, do not exist here. Mill River runs through the town from the northwest and its falls furnish waterpower. It owes its origin to the Rev. Adin Ballou (1803-00). He was clearly a product of that spirit of unrest and reform which affected New England religious life during the early years of the last century. In 1831 he became pastor of an independent church in Mendon. Ballou favored women's rights and what he called "practical Chris- tian socialism." In 1842 he founded Hopedale or "Fraternal Com- munity No. I." About thirty persons joined him and liv.ed for a time in one house on a poor farm; the number later increased to over 300. Ballou was president of this community, whose members all had an equal vote as to the use of property, but owned individual holdings; a curious arrangement which caused bickerings between the stock- holders and those whose only profit came from labor. In 1856 there was a deficit. Ebenezer D. Draper, who held important patents, with his brother George bought the stock at par and paid the debts of the community, which thereafter existed only as a religious society. Thus was founded the Draper Company, manufacturers of cotton machinery, now employing more than 2500 men. The famous Nor- throp loom made here has largely supplanted the older type and saves more than 50 per cent of the cost of weaving. After George Draper's death the concern passed to his sons. One of these, Eben Sumner Draper (1858-1913), was Governor of Massachusetts, 1909-11. On the site of the Ballou homestead is a small park with a bronze statue of Adin Ballou. The Draper Memorial Church, the Town Hall, a gift of the heirs of George Draper, and sev- eral other buildings bear witness to the interest which that family has taken in the town. The Bancroft Memorial Li- brary was presented to the town by Joseph B. Bancroft as a memorial to his wife. Near it is the fountain to the memory of Gen. W. F. Draper. On the high ridge between Milford and Hopedale is the residence of Mrs. E. L. Osgood; there are several beautiful estates of the Draper family in the vicinity. From Milford Post Office the route follows Main St., with trolley, and at the fork bears right with the branch trolley and "Medway" signs. At the white house in the fork bear left through the village of WEST MEDWAY (59.5). The old village of Medway lies a mile to the south of this 496 MILFORD MEDFIELD route. These villages lie in the upper valley of the Charles river. Medway is the birthplace of 'Oliver Optic,' Wm. T. Adams (b. 1822), the popular juvenile writer. 64.0 MILLIS. Alt 167 ft. Pop (twp) 1399 (1910), 1442 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1885. Millis is another Charles River town. Among the surround- ing hills and woodlands are a number of farms and country places. As yet it has not been so completely developed by the all-the-year-round colony as Dover, Sherborn, and Medfield. The industries here include the Clicquot Club Company, makers of ginger ale and soda water, army and navy shoe- making, the United Crown Cork and Seal Company, the American Felt Company, the Baltimore Paper Mills, and the Charles La Croix Bottling Works. 66.0 MEDFIELD. Alt 188 ft. Pop (twp) 3446 (1910), 3648 (1915) Inc. 1651. Mfg. straw goods, felt hats, and brick. The town has some pleasant elm-shaded streets. The Uni- tarian Church is a good example of an old New England meet- ing house. In Chenery Hall are the town offices, the library, the post office, and the rooms of the Medfield Historical So- ciety, containing a small collection of local interest. The straw goods and felt hat industry of the Edwin V. Mitchell Company has been in continuous existence since 1801. Many farms have been transformed into country estates and the town has become something of a social center. Here are the estates of Mrs. J. DeForest Danielson, Pound Farm; Edward Jewell, Red Gate Farm; Benjamin Kimball, Rest Harrow House; Prof. Chas. M. Loeffler, Meadowmere Farm; and Mrs. W. H. McElwain, Holiday Farm. Glen Adams was built in the seventeenth century by a brother of John Adams, who was shot on the doorstep by King Philip's warriors, according to local tradition, and the house was burned. Rebuilt by the Adams family, it was occupied by direct descendants until recent years and is now a part of the Charles Inches estate, a mile southeast of the village. Medfield was settled from Dedham in 1649. It derived its name from the wide meadows formed here by the Charles, one of the few New England towns whose name has a really local significance. A graduate of the first class of Harvard College was minister of Medfield for fifty years and in 1676 witnessed the burning of the town by King Philip. According to tradition two houses were spared, and one of these, the Peak house, is still standing. Its salvation was secured through the sacrifice of a keg of cider to the Indians. After the burn- ing of the town the Indians withdrew to Noon Hill to the south and celebrated their victory with the cider. Medfield was the birthplace of Hannah Adams (1775-1831), the first American woman to publish a book and the first to devote her- self to a literary life. Her first work, "A View of Religious Opinions," was a religious encyclopedia; in 1805 she published an abridged his- R. 24. BOSTON, WELLESLEY, FRAMINGHAM, GRAFTON 497 tory of New England, which Jedediah Morse, author of the first geography of the United States, and father of the inventor of the tele- graph, bitterly fought as violating his copyright. She was the first person whose remains were buried at Mount Auburn. Lowell Mason, born here in 1792, was the most celebrated teacher and composer of church music this country has produced, and to him is due the introduction of music into the common schools through- out the country. He attended the North District School, which now bears his name. A tablet has been erected at his birthplace on North St., by his son, Dr. William Mason of New York City, who also was a composer and pianist of some note. At the central square the route turns left, skirting Castle Hill and following Center St. The region of Dover, Sherborn, Medfield, and Millis, an idyllic country of wooded hills and meadows through which the Charles river languidly winds, has in the last twenty years become one of residential estates for Boston professional and business men. Note. From Farm Street Station, near Castle Hill, Farm Street leads northward past the Pokanoket Club, a rough-and- ready country club for bachelors, with 100 acres of grounds, to Bridge St., which crosses the Charles river. On the corner of these streets on the left before crossing the river is the model dairy farm of Dr. W. T. Porter, the physiologist, an attractive piece of rolling grassland sloping toward a pine grove on the banks of the Charles. On the west bank in Sherborn in a half-wooded farming country lies the beautiful Farm Pond where there was once an English settlement and later a colony from Dedham, known as The Farms. Within fifteen years this region has passed into the hands of city owners who have built up beautiful estates while retaining the simple farm atmosphere. Between the pond and the river is the estate of Dr. Walter Channing, and to the north of Farm Pond the old Leland Place is now the residence of Joseph Fay. Here too is the estate of J. D. Clark. B. A. G. Fuller and Henry M. Channing have built modern dwellings overlooking the Charles river. A mile to the west is the dignified old village of Sherborn with wide, handsome streets and an attractive old meeting house. In the northwest part of the township, near the Fram- ingham border, the brick buildings of the Sherborn Reforma- tory for Women make a conspicuous blot on the landscape. This establishment was the outgrowth of prison reform in the period following the Civil War; the buildings were com- pleted in 1877. Clara Barton, the founder of the Red Cross, was superintendent here for a time and was succeeded by Ellen Cheney Johnson (1884-99), whose name is famous in prison reform. It was largely her influence that made Sherborn one of the most progressive institutions of its kind. 498 MEDFIELD NEEDHAM Just beyond Castle Hill, to the right of Center St., on a hilltop is the Norfolk Hunt Club. The conditions for cross country riding were particularly good here and led to the establishment of this club, a foster-child of the Dedham Polo Club. It is much frequented by the Boston riding set that like to follow the hounds. The hunting season lasts from early September to late November, when 'pink' is a familiar color in the landscape. On Farmers' Day the club enter- tains the farmers over whose land members ride. 70.0 DOVER. Alt 156 ft. Pop (twp) 798 (1910), 999 (1915). Nor- folk Co. Inc. 1784. Mfg. portable houses. The ridge of hills to the left, named in general Pegan Hill, after an Indian family once living on the Natick side, has on its slopes many residences. On the right is Noanet Hill. Among the country estates of Dover are those of Edward W. Grew and Charles F. Lyman; Graystone Farm, the beautiful home of Arthur E. Davis, Nawn Farm, the residence of Rob- ert Gorham Fuller, and the residence of Walter Channing, Jr. Dover was a pioneer in the movement for the preservation of birds, the first town in the United States to appoint a bird warden with a salary. The town boasts the largest concern in the country manufacturing portable houses, with an interest- ing permanent outdoor exhibit in connection with the factory. On Glen St. a slab marks the home of Hannah Dexter, a cele- brated Indian doctor, who met a tragic death in 1821. Dover was settled from Dedham early in the seventeenth century and became the Fourth or Springfield Parish of that town. In 1629 the Rev. Mr. Higginson spoke of "The land at Charles River is as fat blacke earth as can be seen anywhere, though all the country bee, as it were, a thick wood for the generall." From Dover the road crosses the Charles near the Charles River Station and bears left along Central St., turning right on Great Plain Ave., into 74.0 NEEDHAM. Alt 169 ft. Pop (twp) 5026 (1910), 6542 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1711. Mfg. knit goods and paper boxes. This is an attractive residential town with several knit goods factories. At Needham Heights on Highland Ave. is one of the factories of Wm. Carter Company, manufacturers of well- known knit goods and cotton underwear, and another large factory is situated nearby on Lake Rosemary. The Cricket Club at Needham Heights is largely maintained by Mr. Carter. At Needham the route turns left along the main street, through Highlandville (75.0), and, crossing the Charles, follows Highland Ave. to Newton Upper Falls, where it turns right, on Boylston St., leading to Chestnut Hill Reservoir and Beacon St. or Commonwealth Ave. to Copley Square (86.5). R. 25. BOSTON to HARVARD, and PRINCETON. Returning via CLINTON and SUDBURY. 102.5 m. This route passes through the historic shrines of Lexington and Concord and an interesting historic country in which lie the select residential communities of Harvard, Lancaster, and Princeton, reaching its climax at Mt. Wachusett (2108 ft). Clinton and Hudson are typical industrial towns, while Sud- bury, Way land, and Weston are becoming increasingly popular residential towns for Boston people of prominence and wealth. The route as far as Concord is the reverse of Route 1 5 (p 430) and is marked by red bands on poles and posts. Leaving Boston by Commonwealth Ave., cross the Charles river by Harvard Bridge, continuing on Massachusetts Ave. through Cambridge to ARLINGTON (7.5 ;p 430), LEXINGTON (12.0; p 427), and CONCORD (19.0; p 422). From Monument Square, Concord, turn left on Main St., and then along Elm St., across the Assabet river. Just beyond the State Reformatory (21.0) the right fork marked by red bands is Route 15 to Littleton, Fitchburg, and beyond. Take the lefthand road, an excellent State Highway, through to Harvard. The route crosses R.R. at West Acton (25.0). This was one of the numerous small villages in the township of Acton, which was settled as early as 1656. Originally part of Concord it was used for "feeding," as the early records say. In 1668 Captain Thomas Wheeler was granted the use of 200 acres "on condition that he should keep for the inhabitants, 'except twelve sabbath days yearly,' a herd of 50 cattle for one shilling per head, to be paid, 'one third part in wheat, one third part in rie or pease, and the other third part in Indian corn.' He was to protect them in a yard at night from the wild beasts." He built a house with "a pair of chimneys." 28.5 BOXBORO. Alt 240 ft. Pop (twp) 317 (1910), 326 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1783. The country between Concord and Harvard has been de- scribed as a rolling surface of "hollows and dimples and inex- plicable ridges." Through a farming country the route ascends gradually into a hilly and more heavily wooded region. 32.5 HARVARD. Alt 286 ft. Pop (twp) 1034 (1910), 1104 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1732. Mfg. foundry and machine shop products. The shady main street leads to a Common about which there are a number of dignified old houses. That on the southwest corner was once the home of John Atherton, an inn-keeper here during the early eighteenth century. In the hills about the town is a small community of Boston professional men. The community of Shakers to the east of the town dates from the visit of Mother Ann Lee (p 383) in 1781-83. The (499) 500 HARVARD LANCASTER townspeople tried to expel the Shakers, and mobbed and beat them. According to evidence of the period, "they ran about in the woods and elsewhere hooting and tooting like owls." Later Harvard became more tolerant and the Shakers were recognized as a peaceful, laborious community. Today they manufacture brooms and carry on a trade in herbs and dairy produce. They are affiliated with the community at Shirley. In the middle of the seventeenth century adventurous white fur- traders came here to trade with the Indians of the Nashua valley. Soon a settlement grew up which was named in honor of Harvard University and its founder. In 1658 a common thoroughfare was established between Groton and Lancaster, which passed through the town. From that time on the town was a prosperous community in the midst of a farming region. From Harvard the route turns south through the long village street of Still River. To the east there are occasional glimpses of Bare Hill Pond, a beautiful sheet of water deep set in the hills, with irregular shores and wooded islands. Note. The road to the south commands a view over the broad valley of the Nashua river and its fertile lowlands, with lovely views of Mt. Wachusett in the distance. It crosses the valley of the Nashua river, which flows out of the great Wa- chusett Reservoir at Clinton through Lancaster, Groton, and Pepperell, finally emptying into the Merrimack at Nashua, N.H. It is an idyllic stream flowing for a good part of its course through grassy meadows and overshadowed by great trees, as Whittier wrote: "through the calm repose of cult- ured vales and fringing woods the gentle Nashua flows." This valley was the home of the Nashaway Indians, Nashaway meaning "place between" or "in the middle." This road joins the main route at South Lancaster. The main route, turning west from Still River, crosses R.R. near the Nashua river and bearing left continues to Lancaster. Just before reaching Lancaster it crosses Route 12 (p 376); from here it is but half a mile to the Beaman Oak, the largest in Massachusetts (p 421). On the road to Lancaster near Pine Hill, midway between the Still River and the Lancaster Center Stations, is the old Burbank estate, the home of the Rev. Aaron Burbank, a Baptist minister. His son, Luther Bur- bank, 'the wizard of plant life,' was born and brought up here. 38.0 LANCASTER. Alt 310 ft. Pop (twp) 2464 (1910), 2585 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1650. Indian name Nashawog. Mfg. cotton goods, furniture, grease and tallow, fullers' earth. Lancaster is a beautiful old village noted for its magnificent trees. There is a fine village Green shaded by handsome elms. Facing it is the Fifth Meeting House, with a beautiful cupola R. 25. BOSTON TO HARVARD, AND PRINCETON 501 designed by Bulfinch, and also the Library, the High School, and the new Town Hall, built in an appropriate Colonial style. The Rev. Nathaniel Thayer was pastor of the church from 1792 to 1840. His four grandsons, John E., Bayard, Nathaniel, and Eugene V. R. Thayer, built fine estates here which cover Courtesy of Wallace Nutting THE FIFTH MEETING HOUSE, LANCASTER, DESIGNED BY BULFINCH the eastern slopes of George Hill in South Lancaster. Bayard Thayer formerly had a game preserve here of several thousand acres. He introduced the English pheasant into these parts. Chief of Lancaster's trees was the Great Elm, 25 feet in girth with a spread of 115 feet, which unfortunately was blown down a few years ago. The Carter Oak, one of the largest red oaks in the State, is 16 feet in circumference five feet from the ground. It is on the south side of the 'Back Road,' north of the greenhouses of Nathaniel Thayer. The Beaman Oak 502 LANCASTER PRINCETON is near Lanes Crossing in North Village. With a circumfer- ence of 29 feet, a height of 78, and a spread of 75 it is probably the largest white oak in Massachusetts. There is no doubt it was ancient when Gamaliel Beaman settled here in 1659. The territory of this town was purchased of the Indian Sachem Sholan in 1643. The first settler in this region was one John Prescott, who erected the first grist mill west of Watertown (p 149). His grave in the "Indian Burying Ground" is marked by a large flat slab of stone, so placed to guard against its being disturbed by wolves. A more modern tablet bears an inscription by the late Senator Hoar. The community prospered until the outbreak of King Philip's War. In the dead of winter, 1676, King Philip with 1500 warriors attacked the town and set fire to the garrison house of the Rev. Joseph Rowland- son, in which forty-two of the settlers had sought refuge. The site of this house on the grounds of Nathaniel Thayer is marked by a lone pine. Only one man escaped. His wife, Mary Rowlandson, together with her children, was carried away captive. Their long sufferings on this occasion are graphically told by Mrs. Rowlandson in her "Removes." Over thirty reprints attest the popular interest in her story. After King Philip's War the town was rebuilt and became the most important settlement of the region until the growth of indus- trial Clinton overshadowed it. The road southward crosses the Nashua river by the Center Bridge, and passes through the little village of SOUTH LAN- CASTER (39.0). Here is the Thayer Museum with one of the finest private collections of birds in the country. (Open Mon., Wed., and Sat.) The north branch of the Nashua furnishes power for the Ponakin Mills, which manufacture cotton yarns. The route, after crossing R.R., circles the northern slope of Redstone Hill (660 ft), so called from the color of the rocks, which contain much iron. In 1755, in the search for precious metals, a shaft was sunk to a depth of 150 feet. Route 12, from Worcester northward, is crossed at 43.0 STERLING (p 376). Between Sterling and Princeton an English potter by the name of Walley has taken an abandoned mill and established an art pottery in which he does all the work himself. Visitors may usually see the various processes of modeling, firing, etc. From Sterling the road dips down into the valley of Still Water River and then begins a steady climb, with beautiful views of Little Wachusett and Wachusett Mountain ahead, passing the golf links and entering 50.5 PRINCETON. Alt 957 ft. Pop (twp) 818 (1910), 800 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1759. Mfg. furniture and leather. Princeton has a commanding situation on a hilltop, near Mt. Wachusett. It is noted for cool, dry air and splendid views. A generation or so ago it had some reputation as a resort, but it is now a quiet village frequented by a select R. 25. BOSTON TO HARVARD, AND PRINCETON 503 summer colony. There are several attractive estates in the neighborhood. On the eastern side of the main street is the old Boylston place. There is a typical old New England meeting house. Near it is Dr. E. S. Lewis's Nauheim Institution for hydropathic treatment. Near the village is the summer home of the Hon. Charles G. Washburn of Worcester. On the right is the new residence of Captain Hamilton Perkins of Boston. On a wooded hill to the northwest is the estate of Thomas Allen of Boston, with a Japanese garden. The village was founded about 1750 and named in honor of the Rev. Thomas Prince, the famous old pastor of the Old South Church in Boston, and founder of the Prince Library. It was the birthplace of Leonard Woods, the once wellknown theologian. MX. WACHUSETT (2108 ft), to the north, is an isolated monadnock. A good auto road and several paths lead to the PRINCETON FROM JONES HILL, LOOKING TOWARD WACHUSETT top, and a hotel, the Summit House, is a rendezvous for motor- ists and pedestrians. The wonderful View embraces 300 vil- lages and parts of six States. To the 1 north are Mts. Monad- nock and Sunapee, and, occasionally, Mt. Washington is seen, 140 miles distant. The mountain itself is easily seen from vessels off the Atlantic coast. Seven miles to the north is Fitchburg, and to the south is Worcester. Near the foot of Wachusett on the east side of Wachusett Lake is a broad flat rock about twenty feet high with the fol- lowing inscription: "Upon this rock May 2, 1676, was made the agreement between the Indians and John Hoar of Con- cord for the ransom of Mrs. Mary Rowlandson of Lancaster. King Philip was with the Indians but refused his consent." From this circumstance the boulder is commonly known as Redemption Rock. From Princeton there are various routes to Boston. One 504 . PRINCETON SUDBURY is via Holden and Route 19 (p 447) to Worcester (16.0), and thence by Route i to Boston (60.0). Another somewhat longer route to Worcester leads through Sterling, Clinton, and Boylston. The return to Boston via Fitchburg and Route 15 (p 421) retraces this route from Concord. The most attractive route is via Sterling, Clinton, Bolton, Hudson, Sudbury, and Wayland. For this route return to Sterling (58.5) over the same road around Redstone Hill, turn- ing right at the fork (60.5) and running straight on into 63.5 CLINTON. Alt 214 ft. Pop (twp) 13,075 (1910), 13,192 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1653. Mfg. carpets, cotton goods, foundry and machine shop products, wire cloth, and woolens. Clinton, noted for its printed goods, carpets, and wire work, is a thriving manufacturing town on the Nashua just at the base of the great Wachusett Dam, 971 ft long and 248 ft high, erected at a cost of $2,500,000. The Wachusett Reservoir supplies Boston and eighteen other cities and towns in the Metropolitan Water District. Below the dam a park, given by the Bigelow family, has been laid out about the spot where the Nashua river rushes forth. Clinton was originally a part of Lancaster, and here in 1653 John Prescott, the pioneer settler of the region, built a grist mill. From early times the village was an industrial center. One of the first cotton mills in the country was erected here in the eighteenth cen- tury. In 1812, Poignand, a Frenchman, and Plant opened mills on the site of Prescott's old grist mill. Here were manufactured ging- hams and sheetings, and the community of "Factory Village," as it was called, was the embryo Clinton. These mills ended with the death of Poignand in 1835, but in 1842 the Bigelows founded the Lancaster Mills, the foundation of the town's present prosperity. Erastus Brigham Bigelow, one of the incorporators of the Massachu- setts Institute of Technology, is usually considered to be the father of Clinton industries on account of his inventions of new processes in the manufacture of figured fabrics and of carpets. In 1851 he perfected his loom for the weaving of Brussels and Wilton carpets, the greatest of his inventions, and established the Bigelow Carpet Mills here. He also invented a loom for weaving of wire cloth. He was ably seconded by the business ability of his brother, Horatio N. Bigelow. For a time Clinton probably led the country in the manu- facture of ginghams, and its carpets vied with those of Axminster. In 1905 the value of the manufactures was nearly $6,000,000, nine tenths of which represented cotton goods, carpets, and wire work. The great Lancaster Mills still manufacture ginghams and other dress goods, having about 106,000 spindles and 4400 looms, employing 2000 hands. Other wellknown concerns are the Bigelow-Hartford Company, the Clinton Wire Cloth Company, the Barnedale mill, the Bellevue mill, and the Clinton Worsted Company. The Burton Worsted Company occupies the site of the Prescott grist mill and the old Poignand cotton mill. Passing straight through Clinton, cross R.R. at Bolton Station, turning right, then left, and continuing to R. 25. BOSTON TO HARVARD, AND PRINCETON 505 68.0 BOLTON. Alt 384 ft. Pop (twp) 764 (1910), 768 (1915). Worcester Co. Inc. 1738. Bolton is a dignified, quiet old town in the midst of idyllic country. On the broad main street lined with fine trees there are several old houses. The road to the right by the Girls' Reform School leads by the most interesting of these, the Wilder mansion. Lafayette on his visit to America in 1835 spent a night in this house as the guest of Mr. Wilder, from there going on to Lancaster and Worcester. A mile and a half beyond Bolton turn right at fork, following "Hudson" sign. The left fork is Route 15 n (p 421), to Boston via Stow, Maynard, and Waltham. Cross R.R. and follow Lincoln St. into 72.0 HUDSON. Alt 235 ft. Pop (twp) 6743 (1910), 6758 (1915); one third foreign-born, chiefly Albanians and Poles. Mid- dlesex Co. Inc. 1866. Mfg. rubber goods, shoes, machin- ery, boxes, woolens and worsted. Hudson is one of the industrial towns of Massachusetts of the past generation. It is one of the smaller of the Massachu- setts shoe towns, a wide-awake little community on the Assabet river, from which it obtains some waterpower. The Apsley Rubber Company has the largest plant here. The road straight ahead, following R.R. for a mile, leads to 80.5 SUDBURY. Alt 201 ft. Pop (twp) 1120 (1910), 1206 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1638. Sudbury is a quiet old historic town in the midst of a good farming country. In the vicinity are the famous "Wayside Inn" and a number of other landmarks (p 144). The Sudbury river, which takes its name from this town, flows from the ponds of Framingham through Wayland and Sudbury to Concord, where it joins with the Assabet, forming the Concord river, which in turn empties into the Merrimack. Some of the most picturesque bits of country about Boston are in the Sudbury marshes. Note. From East Sudbury (81.5) the righthand road leads south through Saxonville (p 490) to Framingham (88.5), where it connects with Routes 3 (p 220) and 24 (p 490). The route runs straight through the town to Wayland (83.5), where it joins Route i (p 146), continuing via Weston, Wal- tham, Belmont, and Arlington to Boston (102.5). R. 26. BOSTON to GROTON and ASHBY. 60.5 m. Via BEDFORD, WESTFORD, and TOWNSEND. This route forms a pleasant alternate to Routes 15 or 33, leading through a rolling farm country and connecting with Route 38 for the Merrimack valley, or continuing through Groton to Peterboro or Keene. It follows Route 15 (p 430), reversed, marked by red bands on poles and posts, through ARLINGTON (7.5), and at LEXINGTON (12.0), beyond the Common, leads diagonally right, with trol- ley, to North Lexington (13.0), and by a good State Road to 17.0 BEDFORD. Alt 120 ft. Pop (twp) 1231 (1910), 1365 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1729. At the Green are the Parish Church (1816), with the old Fitch clock of 1812 inside, and the plainly fashioned Town Hall, where is preserved the famous Bedford Flag, carried by the Bedford minute men at Concord. The tree-lined main street is called the Great Road because in earlier days it was the main road to Boston and the town was a station on one of the great coach lines to New Hampshire. On one side of it stands the old Fitch Tavern, the rallying point of the Bedford minute men on the morning of the Concord Fight. The famous old tavern, at least 180 years old, has an inter- esting interior. The Parson Stearns house, to the east, a century and a quarter old, was in its day the stateliest dwelling in the town. The 'Squire' Stearns house, to the west, shaded by the Fitch elm, is a 'brick end' mansion with four side chimneys and an old door with interesting hinges. On the old road to Billerica is the ancient Bacon homestead, built in the seventeenth century, probably the oldest in town. The Job Lane house on the North Road, of much the same age, contains curious cupboards and secret closets. In 1638 the General Court made grants here to Governor John Win- throp and Deputy-governor Dudley. In his Journal, VVinthrop tells how the two quarreled over their lands and as they journeyed down the Concord river how they finally made up at "The Two Brothers" two boulders on the riverbank which marked the division of their lands and remain historic landmarks. Bedford Springs, a few miles north of Bedford, lies off the route. It was formerly of some reputation as a resort. The Hayden family here made a fortune in patent medicines. 26.0 CARLISLE. Alt 200 ft. Pop (twp) 551 (1910), 490 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1780. This is a little farming town, named for Carlisle, Scotland. The Carlisle Pines is a twenty-acre reservation of the Appa- (506) R. 26. BOSTON TO GROTON AND ASHBY 507 lachian Mountain Club, formed to preserve the only primeval white pines in the vicinity of Boston. At the village center turn left upgrade. Beyond Carlisle Station and Bear Hill, on the right, the road reaches (31.0) the yellow-marked Route 38 (p 701), from Newburyport and Lowell to Littleton. By following this route connections are made for return routes to Boston via Lowell or via Concord. Continuing westward the road leads through the hill town of Westford (32.5) to 41.5 GROTON. Alt 300 ft. Pop 2155 (1910), 2333 (1915). Mid- dlesex Co. Settled 1655. Indian name Petapawag. This fine old town is beautifully situated, overlooking the valley of the Nashua river and the hills beyond. On its main street are some fine old houses. Lawrence Academy dates from 1792. The old Dana and Bazar houses on either side of the main building are now used as residences for the boys. The Groton Inn is a comfortable old hostelry dating from pre- Revolutionary times when Groton was an important posting place on one of the main highways between Boston and Canada. The Groton School, established by the Rev. Endicott Peabody in 1884, lies a mile and a half to the west. It has the care- fully fostered reputation of being the most aristocratic school in America. The Chapel, the gift of W. Amory Gardner, a master in the school, is a notable example of late decorated Gothic style. Its beautiful tower is a landmark for miles. Continuing along the main street, the road leads through the hamlet of Townsend Harbor (47.5) and parallels R.R. to 49.5 TOWNSEND. Alt 300ft. Pop (twp) 1761 (1910), 1812 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1732. Mfg. barrels, brooms, and shoe stock. This neat, pretty village is attractively placed on the mead- ows of the Squannacook river in a hilly farming country. It was named for Viscount Townshend, the English statesman. Continuing westward, across the Squannacook the route forks left through West Townsend (51.0) and its crossroads, bearing left at all forks over the northern slope of Fort Hill. At the end of the road turn right, to ASHBY (60.5), joining Route 12 (p 377). The left fork, two miles beyond Ashby, leads to ASHBUKNHAM (67.5), connecting with Route 33. R. 27. BOSTON to LOWELL. 26.0 m. Via BURLINGTON and BILLERICA. This route, a pleasant alternate to Route 34, follows Route J 5 (P 43) > reversed, as far as Arlington Center (7.0), where it turns right, on Mystic St., marked with blue bands on poles and posts. It runs along the shore of Mystic Lakes (p 602) and crossing Church St. continues straight up Cambridge St., leaving the center of Winchester a mile to the right. On the left is the exotic mansion of Oren Cheney Sanborn of the Chase & Sanborn Coffee firm. Behind it rise Andrews Hill and Pisgah Mountain, and further back Zion Hill (400 ft). At the fork (10.0) the main route leads left, leaving the blue route, through an unspoiled bit of beautiful country. The blue-marked boule- vard, forking right, leads past Horn Pond to North Woburn and Route 34 (p 603). 14.0 BURLINGTON. Alt 220 ft. Pop (twp) 591 (1910), 751 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1641. The Ipswich river has its source in the hills about here. Two miles beyond the route crosses the headwaters of the Shawsheen, a stream beloved by canoeists, to 19.5 BILLERICA. Alt 126 ft. Pop (twp) 27 S9 (1910), 3246 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1655. Indian name Shawshine. Mfg. woolens, fertilizer, and chemicals. Billerica, the ancient 'Billerickey,' is a fine old town which with the passing years has acquired an air of dignity. The broad main street is lined with beautiful elms. The old Unitarian Church dates from 1797. Interesting old houses are the Manning Manse (1696), still the property of the Mannings, a garrison house and tavern in pioneer days, Bennet Hall (1800), the residence of the Hon. Joshua Holden, Hillhurst (1811), the old Stearns house, and the Dr. Bowers homestead (1804). The Bowman house on Lexington Road was a famous hostelry in the old days, as was the Pollard Tavern (1682) in the village. The Boston & Maine R.R. has recently erected extensive repair shops here, which has resulted in real estate development and a workingmen's colony. The country about Billerica, watered by the Concord and the Shawsheen rivers, is most attractive. In the vicinity are the ruins of an aqueduct over the old Middlesex Canal (p 603), long since fallen into disuse. The State Highway continues through a corner of the town of North Billerica, entering Talbot Ave., and joining Routes 34, to the White Mountains, and 38 at 26.0 LOWELL (R. 34). (508) R. 28. BOSTON to HAVERHILL. 36.0 m. Via READING and ANDOVER. Leave Boston by way of Commonwealth Ave. and Harvard Bridge to Central Square, Cambridge. Turn right along Prospect St. and Webster Ave., and left over R.R. through Union Square. Bear right on Walnut St., over Central Hill and diagonally across Broadway, leaving Broadway Park on the right, into the Fellsway. 4.0 SOMERVILLE. Pop 77,236 (1910), 86,854 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1842. Mfg. furniture, jewelry, glass, candy; meat- packing, bleaching, and dyeing. Somerville, a populous suburban municipality, is rich in memories of the Revolution and many old landmarks survive. It is the home of a number of industries, including the North Packing and Provision Co. and the Union Glass Co. The city buildings and the Public Library are on Central Hill beside the park which occupies the highest point. The miniature fortress near the middle of the park marks the redoubt of the fortifications of 1775, which were connected with the citadel on Prospect Hill by a rampart and a ditch. On Sycamore St., the second above Highland Ave., on the right beyond the City Hall, extending to Winter Hill, is the old John Tufts farmhouse, the headquarters of General Charles Lee, commanding the left wing of the army during the invest- ment of Boston, after his removal from the more sumptuous but more remote Royall House in Medford (p 600). The Old Powder House, in Nathan Tufts Park, can be reached from Davis Square via College Ave. This curious beehive structure, situated in the "Cow Commons" of Charlestown, was erected before 1710 and was originally a thriving grist mill. In 1747 it was purchased by the province and from that time until 1830 it was the principal storehouse for powder in the vicinity of Boston. The seizure of its store of powder by Gage's soldiers, Sept. 6, 1774, was the first openly hostile act of the Revolution by the British. For nearly two centuries the region was an unimportant outlying district of Charlestown, the site of the Ten Hills Farm of Governor Winthrop. In 1631 at the Mystic river, not far from the present Wellington Bridge, was launched the bark "The Blessing of the Bay," the first ship built in the colony. Prospect and Winter hills were fortified by the Americans at the beginning of the Revolution. Pros- pect Hill was the headquarters of Putnam after the retreat from Breeds Hill and here was built the "Citadel," one of the most impor- tant parts of the American investments, with Nathaniel Green in charge. The Union flag of the 'Confederated Colonies was first hoisted here. Somerville was separated from Charlestown in 1842 and became a city thirty years later. From Somerville the road crosses the Mystic river by Well- ington Bridge. Just beyond to the right is the Revere Beach (SQ) 510 SOMERVILLE ANDOVER Parkway, followed by Route 36. The main route follows the blue markers on poles and posts straight on, forking left (6.8), away from the Maiden boulevard, along Fellsway West and curving right (7.6) at Medford (p 600), along boulevard with trolley. To the left at this point is Route 34. Passing through Middlesex Fells Reservation (p 480) the route enters 11.5 STONEHAM. Alt 147 ft. Pop 7090 (1910), 7489 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1725. Mfg. leather, shoes, paper boxes, patent medicines. Stoneham, a part of the Lynn shoe-belt, is a shoe and leather town, specializing in children's shoes. The route marked by blue bands on poles through the Fells, Stoneham, Reading, etc., practically follows the old Andover Turnpike, which in the manner of turnpikes ran in a nearly straight line. Right, on Franklin St., Route 21 (p 480) leads to Saugus and Lynn. Half a mile further on, Route 29 (p 514) bears right on Elm St., to Wakefield and Topsfield. 15.0 READING. Alt 107 ft. Pop 5818 (1910), 6805 (1915). Mid- dlesex Co. Inc. 1644. Mfg. shoes, rubber goods, brushes, and organ pipes. Reading is a pleasant old town with important manufac- tures. The Old South Church is a good example of a typical New England meeting house. Continuing with the blue markers, near West Village (17.0) the road crosses the Ipswich river. Martin's Pond (19.0) and Foster's Pond lie to the left. 24.0 ANDOVER. Alt 92 ft. Pop (twp) 7301 (1910), 7978 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1644. Indian name Cochichawick. Andover is a fine old town in a delightful situation amid the green hills of the Shawsheen valley. Its chief glory lies in the famous schools which are located on Andover Hill, a mile south of the center of the town, but there are also some Colonial mansions about which linger literary associations. Upon entering Andover the buildings of Phillips Academy and the former site of the Andover Theological School on Seminary Hill lie on both sides of the road about a mile south of the center of the village. On the right is the gymnasium, and behind it, the old Brick Academy, now used as a dining hall, and further on, Brothers' Field, the scene of athletic sports. Facing the broad campus to the east are the old brick build- ings of the Theological Seminary, occupied, since its removal to Cambridge in 1908, by the Academy. In the center is Pearson Hall, used for recitations, flanked by Phillips and Bartlet Halls. On the lefthand side of the road is a long line of dormitories and faculty houses. On the corner of Phillips R. 28. BOSTON TO HAVERHILL 511 St. is the Archeology Building with a museum, and nearby, the recently erected Peabody House, used by the students for social purposes. Opposite the Stone Chapel, which stands on the north side of the campus, is the Phillips Inn, formerly the home of Harriet Beecher Stowe, who here wrote her second great novel, "Dred," in 1852. Mrs. Stowe is buried in the private cemetery of the Trustees of Phillips Academy. The old Andover home of Elizabeth Stuart Phelps is a large white Colonial mansion set well back from the street on the west side, opposite the Seminary Row. Here she lived with her father, Professor Austin Phelps, through her girlhood. At 147 Main St. S. F. Smith wrote the patriotic hymn "America," while a student in Andover Theological Seminary. Just beyond the Academy grounds, School Street to the left leads to the grounds of Abbot Academy, tfye first girls' school incorporated in America, 1829. The main buildings are grouped about a circular green. Its alumnae include Elizabeth Stuart Phelps, Octave Thanet, and Kate Douglas Wiggin. The land here was purchased by the Rev. John Woodbridge of an Indian sagamore for six pounds and a coat in 1643. It was settled in 1644 by men who came up the Merrimack river from Rowley. At that time it was called "Cochichawicke by Shawshin." Among the pioneer families were the Bradstreets and the Phillipses. Simon Bradstreet, 'the Father of Andover,' built the first grist mill. The town suffered from several Indian attacks, the worst of which was in March, 1698, when Assacumbuit with a band of forty Indians burned two dwelling houses and massacred a number of inhabitants. In 1692 more than fifty witchcraft accusations were brought against towns- people; three, duly tried, were hanged. Washington came to Andover during the tour of 1789. He writes in his diary for November 5th: ". . . came to Abbot's Tavern where we breakfasted and met with much attention from Mr. Phillips, President of the Senate of Mass., who accompanied us through Billerika to Lexington, where I dined and viewed the spot on which the first blood was spilt in the dispute with Great Britain." Phillips Academy at Andover was established in 1778 through the generosity of Samuel Phillips of Andover, and John Phillips of Exeter, N.H., sons of the Rev. Samuel Phillips, the first pastor of the South Church, Andover. Samuel Phillips had been a member of the Pro- vincial Congress and had reaped the benefits of "preparedness" in manufacturing gunpowder for Washington's army. Associated with several members of his family he gave $85,000 and a plot of land to found the academy. It was incorporated in 1780 with the title of Phillips Academy. The old brick building, designed by Bulfinch in 1818 was burned in 1896, but restored after the original design. The Andover Theological Seminary was established in 1808 and was largely endowed by the Phillips family. It was a great factor in the life of the community until its removal to Cambridge in 1908. From Andover the State Highway, marked by blue bands on telegraph poles and fence posts, follows Elm St. to the south of Carmel Hill. It is joined from the right by the yellow- marked Route 37, which turns left on Massachusetts Ave. 512 NORTH ANDOVER HAVERHILL 27.0 NORTH ANDOVER. Alt 53 ft. Pop (twp) 5529 (1910), 5956 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1644. Mfg. woolens and worsteds and machinery. This is a beautiful residential town wellknown for its manu- facturing interests. As the route forks left with blue markers along Osgood St., opposite Academy Road is the old Phillips manse, built in 1752 by Samuel Phillips, one of the founders of Phillips Acad- emy, Andover. This was for a time the home of Bishop Phillips Brooks. Up Academy Road on the hill just beyond the burying ground is the old Kittredge house (1784). This was the home of Dr. Thomas Kittredge, surgeon of First Massachusetts Regiment in the Revolutionary War, and of six generations of surgeons and physicians. The ancient Bradstreet house stands to the right of Osgood St. on the further corner of Academy Road. The house was built about 1667 and was the home of Governor Simon Brad- street and his wife Anne, daughter of Governor Thomas Dudley, the "first American poetess." The original house on this site was burned in 1666, which event moved Mistress Anne to write some verses: "In silent night when rest I took For sorrow neer I did not look, I waken'd was with thundring nois And Piteous shreiks of dreadfull voice. The fearful sound of fire and fire Let no man know is my Desire." In the Indian attack of March, 1698, when the surrounding houses were burned, this house was preserved on the plea of an Indian who had been befriended by Colonel Bradstreet's mother. Half a mile further, on the right, are the Stevens Woolen Mills, built in 1813 by Captain Nathaniel Stevens; other plants are the Sutton's Mill built in 1812; and the Davis & Furber Machine Shops established in 1836. On Lake Cochichewick, the largest sheet of water in Essex County, are a number of large estates. Some twenty years ago Mr. J. D. W. French had some interesting experiments in forestry carried out, and planted conifers which in later years proved resistant to the browntail and gypsy moth cater- pillars. On the Stevens property on the opposite side of the lake the oak and deciduous trees from the mixed woodland have been cut under the auspices of the State Forester. Some 3000 cords of wood and 1,000,000 board feet of lumber were harvested, leaving the woodland in a condition to resist moth attacks. On the shores of the pond are plantations of native and Scotch pine set sixteen years ago and of larch and spruce planted together some thirty-two years ago. They also R. 28. BOSTON TO HAVERHILL 513 afford interesting opportunities for observation to any inter- ested in forestry. Near the junction of Stevens and Osgood Sts. is the Timothy Johnson homestead (1697), where Penelope Johnson was killed by the Indians. Near the Boxford line, across the pond at the corner of Dale and Water Sts., is the Hubbard Elm, said to be nearly 280 years old. This is the largest tree in Essex County: the circumference five feet from the ground is 20 feet 10 inches. The route continues northeast, leaving Lawrence (p 699) on the left, through 34.5 BRADFORD. Alt 100 ft. Essex Co. Settled 1658. Formerly a town by itself Bradford is now Ward 7 of Haver- hill, a quiet residential section with a fine situation on the bank of the Merrimack opposite Haver hill. Its shady streets are lined with oldfashioned houses, in marked contrast to the bustle of the city across the river. On the Boxford road is the cellar of Thomas Kimball's house, raided by the Indians in 1676. The old Dudley Carleton house was used for prisoners of war in the Revolution. Here is the home of Bradford Academy, founded in 1803, the oldest seminary for the higher education of young women in the United States. Alice Freeman Palmer long took an active interest in it. At the present time it has about 140 students drawn from all over the country (p 800). 36.0 HAVERHILL (R. 38, p 697). R. 29. BOSTON to WAKEFIELD, PEABODY, TOPS- FIELD, GEORGETOWN, and HAVERHILL. 45.0 m. Following Route 28 to Stoneham, fork right on Elm St. 14.0 WAKEFIELD. Alt 97 ft. Pop (twp) 11,404 (1910), 12,781 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1639. Mfg. furniture, shoes, sporting goods, pianos, knit goods, and stoves. Wakefield owes its name to Cyrus Wakefield (1811-73), who made his fortune in the rattan industry and gave the Town Hall in return for the change of name from that of South Reading. Besides the rattan works, Miller pianos (p 800) and Wright & Ditson sporting goods are prominent among the manufacturers. The Winn Mansion in Elm Square has been recently found to contain mural landscape decorations more than a century old. The bell in the High School tower was bought from Paul Revere in 1815. Quannapowitt Lake and Crystal Lake lie north and south of the town. "1662 This year the town ordered that no woman, maid, nor boy, nor gall shall sit in the South Alley and East Alley of the M. House, upon the penalty of twelvepence for every day they shall sit in the Alley after the present day. It was further ordered, 'That every dog that comes to the meeting after the present day, either of Lord's day or lecture days, except it be their dogs that pays for a dog whipper, the owner of those dogs shall pay sixpence for every time they come to the meeting, that doth not pay the dog whipper.'" The route continues eastward through Lynnfield township, crossing Route 35. 22.0 PEABODY. Alt 19ft. Pop (twp) 15,721 (1910), 18,625 (1915). Essex Co. Inc. 1855. Mfg. leather, shoe stock, tallow, glue, and shoes. Peabody is almost united with Salem in situation as well as in industries. Although the new processes which have so largely superseded bark tanning have caused new centers to spring up, notably Woburn and Winchester, Peabody is still the great tannery town. It is perhaps the world's greatest sheepskin tanning center with an annual product of about $20,000,000. The South Parish of Danvers in 1868 took the name of George Peabody, the banker and philanthropist, born here in 1795. He opened a banking-house in London, in 1843, and acquired a princely fortune. He gave Baltimore $1,400,000 for an institute of literature, science, and the fine arts; the London poor, $2,500,000; Harvard University, $150,000 for a museum and a professorship of American archeology and ethnology; Yale College, $150,000; the Southern Educational Fund, $2,000,000; and a library to his native town. He also founded the Peabody Institute at Salem (p 639). He died in 1869 and after funeral honors in Westminster Abbey his remains were brought to America in a British man-of-war and buried in Peabody, R. 29. BOSTON TO HAVERHILL 515 The route bears left across Waters and Crane rivers into DANVERS (25.0) on Route 37. Turning right at the square, and along Locust St., it leads north past the Rea-Putnam- Fowler House in Putnamville (26.5), one of the oldest houses in Essex County. 30.0 TOPSFIELD. Alt 60 ft. Pop (twp) 1174 (1910), 1173 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1639. Indian name Shenewemedy. The little village of Topsfield nestles between high, char- acteristic drumlins. Town Hill and Great Hill to the east rise to over 240 feet. The region is a favorite one for the resi- dences of Boston people. The arboretum and botanic garden and also the rock garden on Emerson Proctor's estate of several thousand acres are especially noteworthy. The Parson Capen house (adm. 10 cents), near the Common, dates from 1683. It has recently been purchased and restored by the Topsfield Historical Society and is con- sidered the best example in New England of seventeenth century Colonial architecture, with projecting upper story. HHE The lower rooms are furnished THE p ARSON CAPEN HOUSE in the manner of the period. The town was named from Topesfield, England, and from early records one gathers that the region was infested with bears and wolves. The father of the celebrated Joseph Smith, the Mormon prophet, was a native of the town. His grave is in the old burial ground. 'Haverhill Street continues to 33.0 BOXFORD. Alt 95 ft. Pop (twp) 718 (1910), 714 (1915). Essex Co. Inc. 1694. Boxford is an old town in the midst of the pleasant hills of Essex County. Professor George Herbert Palmer of Harvard writes in his biography of his wife, Alice Freeman Palmer: "About twenty-five miles to the north of Boston, and half a dozen inland from the sea, lies the ancient village of Boxford, settled among its trees. ... In speaking of Boxford it is more natural to tell first of its woods, ponds, and brooks than of its houses and people, because there are so many more of them. . . . The village itself contains only a dozen houses. . . . The older houses sit square to the compass, regard- less of the road. Everything about them is in order, as was ordained two hundred years ago; paint, thrift, and self respect having main- tained the standard since. "This is the village which in Mrs. Palmer's affection possessed a sacredness no other spot on earth could claim. Into it had soaked the traditions of my family for eight generations. To it her own early nature worship had been transferred and here became newly 516 BOXFORD HAVERHILL enriched by many hallowed experiences. Here was her refuge when elsewhere the world was too much with her. The hush and peace of Boxford she herself has expressed in compact verse: "'Out of the roar and din Safely shut in. Out of the seething street Silence to meet. Out of the hurrying hours To lie in flowers. Far from the toil and strife To find our life.' Our farm in Boxford had never been owned by anybody but ourselves and Indians." Through a region of woods and ponds, again crossing the R.R., the State Highway runs to South Georgetown (37.0). Southwest of the station are Bald Pate Pond and Bald Pate Hill (340 ft), the highest in Essex County. The Bald Pate Inn is a favorite rendezvous for motorists. 38.0 GEORGETOWN. Alt 98 ft. Pop (twp) 1958 (1910), 2058 (1915). Essex Co. Inc. 1838. Mfg. shoes. Georgetown is a rural village in the heart of the Essex hills, a delightful region of old roads, obscure cart paths, abandoned mills, and old farms. Originally known as West or New Rowley, it was part of the " accomodations " offered by the General Court to Ezekiel Rogers and his company in 1638. Tradition says the town was named for George Peabody, who as a boy in 1812 worked here and in after life presented the town with a public library and a memorial church. The route continues, passing Pentucket Pond on the right, to the village of GROVELAND (42.5), joining Route 38 n from Newburyport, with red markers, and crosses the bridge over the Merrimack river, joining Route 38 at 45.0 HAVERHILL (R. 38). R. 30. BOSTON to PROVINCETOWN. 129.0 m. Via PLYMOUTH and the NORTH SHORE or CAPE COD. This is the most attractive route to the Cape, though some- what longer than Route 31 (p 557), via Middleboro. It fol- lows the coast through an historic country, a land of summer delight, with frequent views of the coast, its diminutive har- bors, white sand beaches, and broad stretches of green marsh land. Inland the slopes of the rising hills are dotted with comfortable farmhouses and attractive summer estates. The road is, except for rare and short stretches, excellent oiled macadam; it is a State Highway, marked from Quincy by red bands on poles and posts at all doubtful points. R. 30 1. Boston to Plymouth. 50.0 m. This takes us through Pilgrim land, a region of surpassing historic interest. Milton, Quincy, and Hingham, of great importance in Colonial history, have for more than a century been conservative residential adjuncts of Boston. Cohasset, Jerusalem Road, and Scituate are regions of fine summer estates and residences. Through Marshfield and Duxbury historic sites and literary associations tempt the tourist to tarry or make detours. Leaving Boston by way of Commonwealth Avenue, follow Route 21 (p 474), via the Fenway, Jamaica Parkway, Arbor- way, and at Forest Hills passes under the R.R. and elevated viaducts. Follow boulevard to Franklin Park entrance, there turning sharp left and right into Morton St. Cross Blue Hill Ave. (7.0), the road used by Routes 31 and 32, and reach 9.0 MILTON LOWER MILLS. Alt 24 ft. Pop (twp) 7924 (1910), 8600 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1636. Indian name Uncataquisset. Mfg. chocolate and crackers. Here is the business and industrial center of Milton. The Walter Baker Chocolate Mills on both sides of the road and of the Neponset river occupy the site of several of the earliest mills in the colony. The first mill run by waterpower in New England, a grist mill, was built in 1634. The first powder mill was started here in 1674. In 1765 the first chocolate mill in the country was here begun on the righthand side of the road before crossing the river. In 1780 this passed into the hands of Dr. James Baker, who established the firm which perpetuates the Baker name today (p 800). On the left, by the river, was located the first paper mill in the country, erected in part by a subsidy from the General Court. In the "Boston News Letter," 1769, appeared this advertisement: "The bell-cart will go thrpugh the city before the end of the month (Si7) 5l8 MILTON LOWER MILLS to collect rags for the paper mill at Milton, when all people that will .encourage the paper manufacturing may dispose of them." This quiet old town for rural loveliness has hardly a peer. It has been a favorite residential town for Bostonians since the Colonial days of Governor Hutchinson. Many of the houses built in those early days are still standing and some of them have been only slightly remodeled. There is hardly a road in Milton which does not possess exceptional beauty and historical interest. Motorists, and in fact pedestrians, who desire to spend a happy afternoon can hardly do better than ramble hither and yon through the countryside of Milton. The town takes a pride in maintaining splendid roads and foot- paths. The greater part of the residential portion of the town rises to our right and extends as far as the Blue Hills (p 476). It includes several centers scattered throughout the township, as at Milton Churches, on Brush Hill (p 570), at the juncture of Canton Ave. and Mattapan Parkway, and at East Milton. Just beyond the bridge, on the left, stands the Vose house, with three old English elms before it. In this house or its predecessor were adopted, Sept. 9, 1775, the "Suffolk Re- solves," which had been drawn up in Dedham (p 198), and were carried to Philadelphia by Paul Revere. These formed the prelude to the Declaration of Independence, and declared that a sovereign who breaks his contract with his subjects forfeits their allegiance, that oppressive measures were uncon- stitutional, that crown officers should be seized as hostages for any political prisoners arrested by the royal Government. The route climbs the short steep ascent of Adams St., over Milton Hill, following the old 'Country Heigh Weye' of 1653 which led from Boston town to the Plymouth Plantation. The first two miles disclose charming views and rich estates on either side of the road. At the corner on the right as we go up the hill is a long low building, formerly the old Rising Sun Tavern. The roads on our right lead to the Blue Hills and to Randolph (R. 31, p 557) and Ponkapog (R. 32, p 570) through Milton Center. The Governor Hutchinson house stands on the right almost at the top of the hill. Though considerably remodeled since the days of the old Tory Governor, it is still to be identified by its gables. At the time of the Boston Tea Party, mobs attacked this house as well as his Boston residence, incited in part by a bitter sermon preached against him by Dr. Mayhew, a divine of the time. Brooks Adams relates: "His irreplaceable collection of original papers was thrown into the street; and when a bystander interfered in the hope of saving some of them, 'answer was made, that it had been resolved to destroy everything in the house; and such resolve should be carried to effect.' R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 519 Malice so bitter bears the peculiar ecclesiastical tinge, and is explained by the confession of one of the ring-leaders, who, when subsequently arrested, said he had been excited by the sermon, 'and that he thought he was doing God service.'" THE EMANCIPATION OF MASSACHUSETTS. It was from this house that Hutchinson, on his departure for England, took leave of the prominent citizens, to whom he had endeared himself through his public spirit in road building, tree planting, and many other enterprises. The meadow at the left is held by Trustees of Public Reser- vations in order to preserve for the public the beautiful view over Boston Harbor and Mt. Wollaston. Hutchinson was so fond of this scene that he mentions it with deep regard after his departure to England and also speaks of the delight which his guests from England and elsewhere had found in it. From the summit of the hill are seen at the left snatches of the North Shore and Boston Harbor with the tower of the Custom House looming conspicuously at the extreme left. About a mile to the right, inland, lie the extensive grounds of Milton Academy and the Town Hall and Milton Churches. A hundred yards beyond on the left a tablet marks the site of Milton's first meeting house, opposite the point where Churchills Lane, the old Indian trail to the Blue Hills, plunges down through the beeches. The church, which was no more than a log cabin, was also used as a school. The estates on both sides of the road are renowned for their beauty. Several of them belong to members of the Forbes family, prominent since Colonial days both in local and na- tional history and finance. On the left, by the granite drink- ing fountain at the foot of the first descent, is the red brick mansion of J. Malcolm Forbes, standing far back from the road. Nearly a mile further on, at the junction of Adams and Center Sts., are two or three quaint old houses; the square homestead behind the willows on the right occupies the site of the Governor Belcher mansion, burned by the patriots in 1776 just after Madam Belcher fled to Brush Hill for refuge. The route crosses R.R. at the village of East Milton, once called Railway Village. On the left a stone water tower crowns Forbes Hill. From here the Furnace Brook Parkway con- tinues to Quincy. On the ridge to the right the derricks mark the West Quincy granite quarries. The first railroad in America was laid here in 1826 to facilitate the carrying of granite blocks for Bunker Hill Monument from these quarries to the harbor. Horses and oxen furnished the motive power. The granite house at the corner of Edge Hill Road was built soon after the railroad and given the name of The Railway House. The Furnace Brook Reservation road (R. 21, p 476) branches on the right, to the Blue Hills. 520 MILTON LOWER MILLS QUINCY Granite quarrying and cutting is the leading industry of Quincy, and engages one hundred and twenty-five firms, chiefly in the manu- facture of monumental and cemetery work. There is an investment of capital of $2,500,000, and the annual value of the product is about $2,000,000. The industry dates from 1749, when the art of splitting the stone accurately was first introduced. A visit to the granite quarries, the cutting shops, and the finishing and polishing shops proves highly interesting. Great blocks of gran- ite are turned in huge lathes into columns, globes, or discs with the same ease that wood is handled. From a rough block a human figure is worked out with skill to the minutest detail, almost wholly by mechanical means. The Adams mansion, broad-fronted and dignified, with vine- covered portico, stands back from the street, the last house on the left before reaching the railroad bridge on Adams St. It was the home of two Presidents and many distinguished gen- erations of the Adams family. It is sometimes called the Golden Wedding House, for here three successive generations celebrated their fiftieth wedding anniversaries. It stands slightly below the level of the street in spacious grounds, still wearing an air of distinction. The detached vine-covered brick structure to the west is the library. The house was built in 1731 by Leonard Vassal!, a West India planter, for his summer residence. A violent king-and-church Tory, he fled at the outbreak of the Revolu- tion and his estate was confiscated. John Adams acquired the prop- erty and lived in it during the remainder of his days, revered by the townspeople and visited by eminent foreigners. His favorite walk was up President's Lane, opposite the house, to the top of President's Hill "every morning to see the sun rise and every evening to see the sun set." The mansion remains in the possession of the Adams family and has been occupied successively by John Quincy, Charles Francis, and Brooks Adams, as a summer residence. Adams Academy, corner of Hancock and Adams St., was endowed by John Adams and built in 1872 upon the site he had chosen for it, where John Hancock was born. The Quincy Mansion School for Girls, at Wollaston, not far away, as its name implies occupies a later residence of the Quincy family. 13.0 QUINCY. Pop (twp) 32,624 (1910), 40*74 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1625. Mfg. women's clothing, rag carpets, boots and shoes, foundry and machine products; granite, and shipbuilding. Quincy today is a prosy town neither suburb nor city, for- merly the home of independence, Revolutionary statesmen, and two Presidents. The influx of modern industrialism and a foreign population have perhaps interfered with the main- tenance of her historic dignity. In the heart of Quincy the mansions, estates, and institutions belong to former genera- tions. On the outskirts are many fine modern residences. Her granite industry is at least a century old, but the domi- nating industry of the place today is a branch of Schwab's Bethlehem Steel, the Fore River company. R. 30 i. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 521 In the square is the Stone Temple, completed in 1828. (Admission fee to attendant.) It is built of Quincy granite from property deeded the town by John Adams with the request that "a Temple should be built from the stone." 'The President's Pew' was occupied by John Quincy Adams and later by Charles Francis Adams, our Minister to England during the Civil War. Under the portico are the tombs of both the Presidents and their wives. In the old cemetery opposite the church are buried many of the Quincy and Adams families. On the stone above the grave of a five-year- old boy is the inscription, "Schoolmates, we parted on Saturday noon With hopes of meeting on Monday, But ah! what a change: Before 12 o'clock The arrow of death had entered my body." THE QUINCY MANSION, KNOWN AS THE DOROTHY Q. HOUSE The Quincy mansion, otherwise known as the Dorothy Q. House, is about half a mile north on Hancock St., on the right beyond the High School, in broad grounds through which runs Furnace Brook. It has recently been purchased by the Metropolitan Park Commission, aided by the Colonial Dames, and the grounds made a part of the Furnace Brook Parkway. The house is now in charge of the Dames, by whom it has been sympathetically and intelligently restored within and without. It is one of the finest specimens of Colonial domestic archi- tecture, built about 1634 by William Coddington of Boston, who occupied it as a summer home until exiled for his religious views. Edmund Quincy, who with John Cotton came to Boston in 1633, obtained possession shortly after. His son who bore his name enlarged the original structure and lived 522 QUINCY here until his death in 1698, when it descended to his son, another Edward, who was prominent as a jurist and public citizen, and father of 'Dorothy Q.' As Dorothy was a family name it came about that there were two who deserve mention here one the grandmother of Oliver Wendell Holmes, and the other was John Hancock's wife (p 85). The house is open to public free on Saturdays, at other times for a small fee. Within are oldtime furniture and utensils, pictures, and costumes, so that on entering the homestead one steps back into another age. The Furnace Brook Reservation affords views of the surrounding country. To the north pushing into the Bay is Squantum, where Miles Standish and the faithful Squanto, his Indian guide, landed on Sept. 30, 1621, on an exploring expedition from Plymouth. The origin of the name is interesting as explained in Higginson's "New England's Plantation" of 1630: "For their Religion, they doe worship two Gods, a good God and an evill God: the good God they call Tantum, and their evill God whom they feare will doe them hurt, they call Squantum." On Hancock St. south of the square, at the corner of Elm, is Christ Church, in front of which is an interesting fountain. Turning right on School St., at the junction of Franklin St. and Independence Ave. are the old Adams homesteads. The house in which John Adams was born is the smaller of the two simple farmhouses of a century ago. At the time of his mar- riage to Abigail Smith, whose letters are among our best rec- ords of the strenuous life of Revolutionary days, he moved into the other house, and there John Quincy Adams was born July n, 1767. The first, or John Adams house, has been placed in charge of the Adams Chapter D.A.R.; the second, sometimes known as the John and Abigail Adams Cottage, is occupied by the Quincy Historical Society. (Adm. fee.) Not far beyond to the left on Penn's Hill a high stone cairn marks the spot where Abigail Adams and her son watched the smoke and flame of the Battle of Bunker Hill on June 17, 1775. The first settlement on the territory of Quincy was in 1625 when Captain Wollaston established a trading post near the hillock now known as Mt. Wollaston. "In his absence his rebellious servants, led by Thomas Morton, 'that pettifogger from Furnival's Inn,' flung off all authority, declared their independence, every man doing what was right in his own eyes. On May Day, 1627, they flaunted their freedom in the sight of solemn Puritanism by setting up the far-famed May-pole. Hilariously these unleashed pagans from the purlieus of the gross court of King James danced about the 'idoll' of Merry-Mount, joining hands with 'the lasses in beaver coats,' and singing their ribald songs. For this, and also because they sold arms to the savages, Myles Standish, with his army of eight men from Plymouth, scattered them and arrested Morton." Fear of Indian raids led to the building of the fort the remains of which existed near the farmhouse of one George Beal as late as 1725. Note. The more direct route to Plymouth via Weymouth and Hanover, is Route 22 (p 482). R. 30 i. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 523 The route leads southeast from Quincy Square passing the rear of the Stone Temple. From this point the route is marked throughout by red bands on poles and posts at all doubtful points. On the left not far from the square is the Crane Memorial Library. A mile or more further on it crosses Wey- mouth Fore River into North Weymouth and Old Spain. On the right of the bridge of Quincy Neck is the great plant of the Fore River Shipbuilding Company, now the leading industry of Quincy, which a few years ago was absorbed by the Beth- lehem Steel Company. Here in recent years have been built some of the greatest battleships for our own and other gov- ernments, including the "Rivadavia," recently built for Ar- gentina, numerous cruisers, gunboats, destroyers, submarines, and a whole fleet of merchant ships. The great war with the consequent naval needs of this and foreign countries has greatly stimulated the industry and led to the enlargement of the plant. The payroll in recent years has varied between $45,000 and $75,000 per week. Shipbuilding was carried on here to some extent in the eighteenth century, and the "Massachusetts," built here in 1789, was one of the largest ships afloat for many years. This industry sank into compar- ative insignificance for a number of years, but in 1899 two men who were doing a small business in marine engines managed to get the con- tracts for building two destroyers for the Government and built them about two miles upstream at East Braintree. The plant was not big enough and before the citizens of Quincy knew what was going on the farm of an Italian farmer had been purchased and work started on what has become one of America's largest shipbuilding plants The land lying to the right of the next bridge has been taken by the government for a powder magazine, and here is stored much of the powder used by the ships which make Charles- town their home port. Across the river to the left is the big plant of the Bradley Fertilizer Company. The river here forms the boundary line between Norfolk and Plymouth Counties. About a mile to the left lies Crow Point, a popular summer resort, formerly called Downer's Landing and Melville Gardens, once owned by Colonel Melville of Green Street, Bowdoin Square, Boston. The old Colonel was the last of those who wore knee breeches and cocked hats, and was the inspiration of Oliver Wendell Holmes' poem "The Last Leaf." On the right of the road are the extensive lawns of the Bradley estate and on the left are the bare slopes of Otis Hill, once called Weary- All-Hill, since named for the first of the American Otises, whose farm this once was. Near the foot is the encampment of the First Corps of Cadets, and a quarter of a mile beyond, overlooking the harbor, is the estate of the late John D. Long, Governor of the State, and Secretary of the Navy during the Spanish-American War. 524 HINGHAM 19.5 HINGHAM. Alt 21 ft. Pop (twp) 4965 (1910), 5264 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1635. Very proud of its history and of the retention of so much of the oldtime spirit and exterior, Hingham is still "the country town" in many ways, gathering summer residents around the shores of the harbor. Its ancient industries, shipbuilding and bucket-making, have disappeared. At the annual Arts and Crafts Exhibition in midsummer, baskets, mats, and toy fur- niture made by the natives are shown. Hingham was founded in 1633 by settlers from Hingham, England, and originally bore the name of Bear Cove. During the troubles with King Philip which commenced about 1675 the town was protected by three forts, one at Fort Hill, one at the cemetery, and one "on the plain about a mile from the harbor." On the nineteenth of April, 1676, "John Jacob was slain by the Indians near his father's house," ac- cording to John Hobart, the early historian and minister of the town. The following day five dwellings were burned by the Indians. The General Lincoln house on the right before coming to the Green is still occupied by the descendants of Benjamin Lincoln who received the sword of Cornwallis at Yorktown. Parts of the present structure were built in 1667 and are still in a good state of preservation. The Lincoln family has been identified with the town since its settlement in 1635. Nearby is the original seat of an ancestor of Abraham Lincoln, Samuel Lincoln, who purchased the estate in 1649; one branch of Samuel's descendants still occupies part of the original home- stead. Nearly opposite this old house is the New North Church, built by Bulfinch in 1806 and containing a slave gallery. The last occupant of this gallery was one Lucretia, who after being freed was invited to sit downstairs in the pew with her master and mistress, which she did and continued to do until her death about ten or fifteen years ago. Just before reaching the church is the old 'Ordinary,' built about 1650, now a residence, which was known as Wilder's Tavern sixty years ago and before then as Andrew's Tavern. At the village square, formerly called Broad Bridge, the road crosses the tracks to the right and follows the red markers along Main St., whose 'wine-glass' elms almost form a com- plete arch. Rev. Price Collier, writer on European life, and for some years minister of the 'Old Ship,' asserted that he had never seen in any foreign country a more beautiful street. On the left the four-square yellow Colonial building is the old Derby Academy, founded in 1784 and endowed by Mme. Sarah Derby, wife of "Lord" Derby of Salem (p 642). The Wompatuck Club, named after the Indian Chief Wom- patuck, the grantor of the original deeds of the town, occupies one of the oldest houses in Hingham, dating back to 1680. In the assembly room of the club house are panels on the walls R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 525 and in the doors, painted by John Hazlitt, a brother of William Hazlitt, the noted English essayist, in 1787. The original owner of this house was John Thaxter. A picture of the old Anchor Tavern hangs on the wall in one of the upper rooms. To the north of the station, next the hotel, is a dwelling, once a garrison house. Nine generations of the same family have lived under ks roof. It antedates 1640. On the hill beyond, Dr. Gay, pastor in the old meeting house from 1718 to 1787, built before 1750 a high-studded comfortable house. Beyond the academy the Old Ship Church has stood for over two centuries much the same as when first erected, 1681. All the original timbers of the frame remain as solid as when THE OLD SHIP CHURCH, HINGHAM, l68l they were first hewn out of solid oak with the broad-axe, whose marks are evident to this day. Its undoubted antiquity is such that it stands on record as the oldest house for public worship in the United States which stands on its original site and is still used for its original purpose. During its long his- tory it has had but ten ministers. In the burying ground behind is an Indian Fort, a circular mound of earth, dating probably from 1635. Nearby are the statue of Governor John A. Andrew, the great war Governor, the graves of General Benjamin Lincoln and Governor Long, and many old stones carrying quaint inscriptions. Hingham has been kept in the lime-light during the last few years by 'Wash' James, Chief of Police, whose zeal against the motorists has brought the town revenue as well as notoriety. Though approaching seventy he has had several valiant hand- to-hand encounters with 'bad men.' 526 HINGHAM NORTH SCITUATE Note. From Hingham, following Main St. and the car tracks, a wide village street through South Hingham leads southward five miles to Queen Anne's Corner, where the house still stands in which three old maids of Revolutionary times remained loyal to Great Britain long after peace was declared, in fact until 1825. Thence by the back roads through West Scituate and Hanover is the shortest way to Marshfield. The nomenclature of this region is singularly suggestive, with such names- as Glad Tidings Plain, Liberty-Pole Hill, Liberty Plain, Fulling Mill Pond, bucket Mill Pond, and Triphammer Pond. Detour by Jerusalem Road to Cohasset Harbor. From Hingham station this slightly longer but much-used detour keeps straight on, following trolley. About a quarter mile beyond the village the road follows for a short way the shore of Hingham Harbor, where in the autumn the wharves and water are dotted with 'smelt-fishers.' Passing under the R.R. bridge we leave the car tracks and continue straight ahead and along the edge of Straits Pond, sometimes called the Sea of Galilee, where the famous Jerusalem Road commences. Note. From West Corner the road to the left, following the trolley, leads to Nantasket Beach, a popular resort of which Paragon Park is the central attraction. The beautiful beach, thickly dotted with summer cottages, extends for five miles from Atlantic Hill to Point Allerton, opposite Boston Light, and Pemberton. Steamboats run to Boston from Nantasket and Pemberton, at the end of the peninsula. After passing the Black Rock House the road continues along the rocky ocean shore bordered by fine estates, rejoining the main route at Cohasset. At the top of the first hill off to the left lies the large estate of Eugene N. Foss, three times Governor of Massachusetts. Green Hill is dotted with the coarsest plum-pudding stone in the country. The Atlantic House Hill is all that is left of an ancient volcano, and Black Rock is composed of antediluvian lava. Minots Light, a granite shaft nearly a hundred feet high, stands about a mile off shore on Minots Ledge, a menace to navigation wholly under water at high tide. The original Minots Light was, in the great storm of 1851, "snapped off like a pike-staff." The present structure of Quincy granite was the first of its kind in America to be built on a ledge, awash at high tide with no adjacent dry land. The insurmountable difficulties were finally overcome, but in the year 1855 the work could be prosecuted for only 130 hours and the following year for only 157 hours. The blocks for the lower portion were carefully cut, dovetailed, and set up on Government Island in Cohasset Harbor before they were erected on their permanent site. R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 527 From Hingham to Cohasset the State Road of oiled mac- adam with red markers is straight and unmistakable. Beyond the village we leave the car track and at the top of the hill to the right is Agricultural Hall. A mile beyond at Rocky Nook a board on a magnificent elm states that the tree was trans- planted in 1719 and that in 1775 Parson Brown preached under it to the Colonial troops. On the north slope of Turkey Hill is the estate of the late Dean Thayer of the Harvard Law School. Beyond North Cohasset, after crossing the. R.R., the Whitney race-track, the scene of the Cohasset horse show, lies to the left. Through the woods is the Cohasset Golf Club, a part of the estate of Henry M. Whitney, once the dominating magnate of New England. The detour enters on the left. 24.5 COHASSET. Alt 24 ft. Pop (twp) 2585 (1910), 2800 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1770. Indian name Quonahassitt. This restful old town, a quiet dignified spot, has become the leading social center of the South Shore. Its streets, shaded by fine old trees which seem as venerable as the town itself, have been well cared for. The shore, Thoreau says, is the rockiest in the State. Facing Cohasset Common is the typical New England meet- ing house and the old Hobart house (1722). On the right of South Main St., which our route follows, stands the house erected by Mordecai Lincoln for his son Isaac in 1717, who was the direct ancestor of Abraham Lincoln, so that the house may be called the Abraham Lincoln Homestead. It is still occupied and owned by members of the Lincoln family. Fur- ther along South Main St., just before crossing Bound Brook into North Scituate, is a tablet on the lefthand side of the road marking the original line between the Plymouth and the Massachusetts Bay Colonies and now the division line between Cohasset and Scituate. Cohasset is near enough to Boston to be a comfortable place of residence the year round, though there is a summer colony as well. On the road to North Scituate are many fine estates, notably on the left the extensive estate of Mrs. Thomas Plant. 26.5 NORTH SCITUATE. Pop (twp) 2482 (1910), 2661 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1633. Indian name Satuit, "cold brook." This is the most northern of the several villages in Scituate, an ancient town settled in 1628 whose appearance has been greatly modernized by the advent of summer residents. Detour to Scituate Beach and Harbor. Leaving North Scituate station on the right a good oiled road leads through a level stretch of woodland to the beach. 528 NORTH SCITUATE To the left is the Hatherly Golf Club whose attractive club house is the center of social activity. The Cliff House at the left, long idle, has within the past few years become one of the most popular on the South Shore. The white sand beach curbs gently seaward affording excellent bathing. From the sea wall there is an extended view over Massachusetts Bay. Far to the north stands Minots Light and in the foreground are the Glades, a rocky wooded promontory. The Hatherly Road to the right leads along the shore to Mann Hill, where is a summer colony overlooking the Bay, thence on to Shore Acres, an unpretentious cottage colony. Rows of cottages extend southward along the shore to old obsolete Scituate Light, erected 1810 on Cedar Point. Con- tinuing, Hatherly Road skirts the harbor of Scituate, an almost land-locked basin on the shore of which is the Scituate Yacht Club, for the harbor in summer is much frequented by yachts as well as fishing boats. On an elevation near is a fine old Colonial house to which an avenue of elm trees leads. This was originally a fort and during the War of 1812 did service in repelling English frigates. A legend of the War of 1812 tells us that the Otis of that day, a grandnephew of James Otis, the Revolutionary patriot, aroused the little village in the early morning hours with the dread news that an English warship lay off the harbor. The legend goes on to say that little Rebecca and Abigail Bates, with fife and drum, marched up and down close to the shore yet hidden from sight of the warship playing so furiously on fife and drum that their martial "music and other noises" scared off the enemy and saved the town from invasion. South of Cedar Point, across the mouth of Scituate Harbor, is First Cliff, or in native parlance, 'First Clift.' This is one of four striking cliffs close together along the shore. Dr. Farrar Cobb and Mr. George Walbach have handsome resi- dences here. The road to the lighthouse passes an old ship high on the beach at the right. This is the old pilot boat "Columbia" which was driven ashore "the night the Portland went down," Nov. 27, 1898. She has been remodeled to resemble as nearly as possible Ham Peggotty's home in "David Copperfield," and is open to visitors at a small charge. Among the furnishings is a chair made from the "Lapwing," Daniel Webster's boat. Still further on the road passes a strip of beach where patches of Irish moss are usually bleaching. 'Mossing' is an industry of considerable importance to the natives along the coast from Scituate south to Duxbury. The moss is a seaweed which grows on the rocks between high and low tide. The mossers R. 30 i. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 529 work from dories, taking it from the rocks at low tide with long-handled rakes. It is washed in tubs, bleached, and dried in the sun, its dark color changing through tones of violet and rose to white during the process. Sometimes a family working together will make as much as $1,000 in a season gathering and preparing the moss. The product is used in households in preparing with milk the familiar blanc mange. It is also used commercially in brewing and dyeing. The route turns to the left up a slight grade past the town landing. Just beyond is a picturesque cluster of wharves. The old town of Scituate, or Satuit, has retained much of its oldtime atmosphere and simple beauty, and is the summer resort of many literary and artistic people. The little store of Charles W. Frye, though much remodeled, contains timbers of the original structure which dates back 117 years. Before that time there was on the spot a log structure, loop-holed for Indian fighting. The store has been in the Otis family and descendants since those early days, and the present owner is a direct descendant of the Otises through a daughter of the store-keeper of 1812. In this building was born Samuel Wood- worth, the author of "The Old Oaken Bucket" (p 530). This coast, because of the high contrasting colors of marsh, sea, and cliffs, is a favorite resort of artists, who have trans- formed many old barns in the neighborhood into studios. Scituate was settled on the north end of the Third Cliff in 1628 by a company from the County of Kent, England. From the old Indian name Satuit was derived Seteat and finally Scituate. Along the brook there are still ancient cedar trees which witnessed the coming of the first settlers. In 1634 another company from England under Parson Lothrpp settled around Coleman Hill, where some Indian trails are still visible but will soon be obliterated by the Boston Sand and Gravel Company's screening and washing plant. The old burying ground of this settlement, on Meeting House Lane, is the next oldest in the State after Plymouth. In the same year settlers came from Plymouth to Scituate. The first witches in New England were discovered here, but the judges refused to take the matter over-seriously. On Second Cliff are the summer homes of a considerable literary colony, including Mrs. Inez Haynes Gillmore; Will Irwin; Gelett Burgess, who invented "The Purple Cow" and "Goops"; Franklin P. Adams, 'F. P. A.,' writer of the "Col- yum"; Samuel Merwin, who wrote weird stories of the opium world; and Beatrice Forbes-Robertson Hale, the suffragette. This was the Cliff loved by Jacques Futrelle, the writer, who went down in the "Titanic" disaster; his charming home Step- ping Stones is one of the most attractive on the cliff. The Third Cliff has some all-the-year-round homes and many summer cottages. All these cliffs are interesting geologically because of their pre-glacial age. They are being rapidly worn 530 NORTH SCITUATE MARSHFIELD away by the sea, although serious attempts are being made by the cottagers to "stem the tide." The detour rejoins the State Road just beyond Greenbush. From North Scituate the State Road, with red markers, crosses R.R. and ascends a hill. To the left is the little village of Egypt. Near at hand, to the left of the road, is Dreamwold, the magnificent estate of Thomas W. Lawson, most spectacular of speculators, and author of "Frenzied Finance." Dream- wold is famous not only for Lawson but for its bulldogs, prize horses, roses, and . chimes. Mr. Lawson, always ready to publish his reasons, thus accounts for his coming to Egypt: "Because I knew the cosy beauties which nestle in Scituate hollows and rest upon Scituate hills. Because I knew its tangled briars and wild roses were a bit more tangled, and lots wilder than in any other nearby nook of nature. That the shade of the ocean was a shade greener, and its white caps a bit whiter off Scituate coast than elsewhere available, and that her fishermen and her mossers were in a more simple, mossy, and lovable crudity than in any other place that had these beautiful things of nature in combination. These were the things that brought Dreamwold to Scituate." Across the road from Dreamwold Hall is the Lawson Tower in which are the famous Dreamwold chimes, presented to Scit- uate by Mr. Lawson. An ugly iron standpipe has thus been transformed into a tower of rare proportions and beauty. Greenbush (30.5) is a quiet old village cherishing fond recol- lections of the Old Oaken Bucket, which itself is presented to view in a Boston museum. On Pond St., a little to the west on the slope of Walnut Tree Hill, is the "Old Oaken Bucket" homestead. In the front yard still remain a well-sweep and a bucket, and nearby are the "deep tangled wild-wood," "the mill,". and "the brook." Samuel Woodworth, it seems, was a printer and sometimes a journalist, and like many of his trade a wanderer and not strictly ' teetotal.' It was while he was editor of the New York "Mirror" that he wrote the song which is his only claim to remembrance. He had just taken a drink of cognac with a friend, and as he set down the 1 glass he declared that it was the finest drink in the world. "There you are mistaken," said his comrade. "Don't you remember the old oaken bucket and the clear cold water of the old well?" At this reminder of his childhood, it is said, "tears rushed to his eyes, he left the room, and with a heart overflowing with the recollections of his inno- cent childhood he set down the words that welled up from a full heart and that have become so dear to many others." Robert Haven Schauffler, the optimistic essayist, has his villa Arden here, and on the banks of Herring Brook in the woods nearby a log cabin studio. R. 30 i. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 531 The bridge over the meandering North River just beyond Greenbush was the scene at. the time of King Philip's War of a sanguinary encounter. Here there stood a mill upon which the people were dependent for grist. The Stockb ridge house nearby was fortified to protect the mill. Across the marshes to the south is the Fourth Cliff, which the great storm of 1898 made an island, leaving a channel forty feet wide and twenty feet deep where before had been dry land. Beyond the bridge the road forks. The State Highway marked by red bands on poles and posts bears to the left. Note. The righthand road, somewhat shorter, runs inland through the attractive village of Marshfield Hills. On High- land St., the road to Norwell, are an old blockhouse, now the residence of Rev. Dr. Henry Nelson, and the home of Lysander S. Richards, whose wellknown apple orchard of 800 trees is the largest on the South Shore. On the old John Rogers place are still living the ninth generation of the original settlers. The State Road commands views over the extensive marshes. Sea View is the station for the summer colony at Humarock Beach, whose fine white sand extends for nine miles south to Brant Rock. Just before reaching the Marshfield Center station the road to the left, around Telegraph Hill, leads to a point commanding an extended and beautiful view over the Duxbury marshes to Plymouth. Telegraph Hill, locally known as Snake Hill, has no snakes, but a summer colony of ministers. On this hill is the house of Peregrine White, born on the "Mayflower" as she lay in Cape Cod Bay. The ridge of pine and evergreen forest is said to be one of the most healthful localities in this region. Crossing R.R. at the Marshfield Center station we continue straight ahead to 37.5 MARSHFIELD. Alt 24 ft. Pop (twp) 1738 (1910), 1725 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1641. Mfg. boxes; market- gardening. This ancient town, made famous by the residence of Daniel Webster, has a fertile soil, and progressive farmers have made Marshfield strawberries famous. During the season a co- operative society of farmers ship their ' truck ' to market every night by automobiles owned by the society. The Fair Grounds on the left before entering the village are the scene of the annual fair, an event of surpassing importance in the summer season of this region. A monument to Webster stands in the triangle near the church where our road turns to the right. Beyond the village we cross South River. 53 2 MARSHFIELD Detour to the Home of Daniel Webster. Where the State Road turns right with red markers, keep straight on to R.R. The road straight ahead leads out on Marshfield Neck across the marshes along the shore to Brant Rock. Turning sharp right at the station, we reach the Daniel Webster place (1.5). The site overlooks the broad marshes of Green Harbor River and the sea. The house of the great orator was burned down in 1878, but its exact site is marked by a boulder, erected in 1914 by the Boston University Law School Association. The present mansion stands near the former one, and the little building under the shadow of great trees by the side of the avenue nearly opposite the house was often used by Webster as his rural study and is the only structure spared by the flames. Near the house are two large elms planted by Webster at the birth of his son, Edward, and his daughter, Julia. He always referred to these trees as "brother" and "sister." In the corner of the yard set off by an iron fence is the family grave- yard. The tomb of the statesman is a mound of earth surmounted by a marble slab bearing this inscription, "Daniel Webster, born January 18, 1782; Died October 24, 1852. Lord I believe: help thou mine unbelief. "Philosophical argument, especially that drawn from the vastness of the universe in comparison with the insignificance of this globe has sometimes shaken my reason for the faith that is in me; but my heart has always assured and re-assured me that the gospel of Jesus Christ must be a divine reality. The Sermon on the Mount cannot be a mere human production. This belief enters into the very depth of my conscience. The whole history of man proves it." At his father's right is his son, Major Edward Webster, who died in Taylor's Mexican Campaign of 1848. The stone over another son bears this inscription: "Colonel Fletcher Webster, i2th Massachusetts Volunteers, son of Daniel and Grace Fletcher Webster; born in Portsmouth, New Hamp- shire, 25th July, 1813; fell at the head of his regiment on the old bat- tlefield of Bull Run, Virginia, August 30, 1862." Daniel Webster, New England's most vivid great man, first came to Marshfield in 1831 and bought the old Thomas homestead, but he was possessed of land hunger and kept adding farm to farm until, at his death, he had here an estate of nearly 1800 acres. He was a sci- entific farmer, and did much to teach the farmers about here the proper use of the soil, how to fertilize it with the abundance of kelp which was easily obtained from the sea, and the value of the rotation of crops. He was a lover of cattle and his holdings were well stocked with blooded herds. He was extremely fond of angling, and it is said that a trout was the first to hear the exclamation which later added luster to his name at Bunker Hill: "Venerable men, you have come down to us from a former generation. Heaven has bounteously lengthened out your lives that you might behold this joyous day." He had an eye for the picturesque in costume. "At dinner or holding a levee, he always looked the gentleman superbly; when out upon a fishing excursion, he could not be taken for anything but an angler, and when on a shooting frolic, he was a genuine rustic Nimrod." He was once tramping over the Marshfield meadows shooting when he encountered a couple of Boston sporting snobs, who were stuck in the R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 533 mud. Not knowing Webster but seeing that he was strong and stal- wart, they begged him to carry them, one by one on his back, to dry land, which he readily did. He accepted the quarter which they prof- fered for his trouble. Then they inquired if "Old Webster was likely to be at home," as they might call. Mr. Webster replied that the gentleman alluded to was not at home just then, but would be so soon as he could walk to the house, and then added that he would be glad to see them at dinner. Further on to the left, on the road to Green Harbor, is Cares- well, the old Winslow estate. The present quaint low-roofed house stands on the site of the house built by Governor Josiah Winslow of Plymouth Colony. A boulder with a bronze tab- let and pointer near the house indicates the site of the residence of Governors Edward and Josiah Winslow. In the Winslow burying ground was buried Peregrine White, the first white child born in New England. The Winslow tomb, marked by a brown stone slab supported by stone pillars, has the Winslow arms and bears this inscription: "Governor Josiah Winslow, the first native-born Governor of Plym- outh Colony, who died in 1680; his wife Penelope; the Honorable John Winslow, a major-general in the British army, and the officer who removed the French Acadians from their country; the Honor- able Isaac Winslow, Esq; with later and less distinguished members of the family." Governor Edward Winslow's marriage to Susannah White occurred here in Marshfield in the spring of 1621 and was the first marriage in the new colony. The Governor was a powerful figure of the time. He won the lasting friendship of Massasoit, did much to alleviate the sufferings of the colonists on several occasions, and was seni to Eng- land to represent Plymouth and Massachusetts Bay and defend it from attack. During the Commonwealth he remained nine years in Eng- land holding a minor office under Cromwell and was sent as an ambas- sador to Denmark. Later. he headed a commission to the West Indies, but died at sea on the way to Jamaica. He was a writer of some ability and has left a number of books. His son Josiah became the first native born Governor of the colony. Of Green Harbor (2.5) Governor Bradford remarks in his Journal: "A plase very well meadowed and fitt t'o keep and rear cattle, good store." The land here was granted to Edward Winslow. A settlement was first made on the site of Green Harbor Village on the road to Brant Rock in 1638. This is the R.R. station for Brant Rock, a thriving and popular sum- mer colony of some hundreds of small cottages. On the Brant Rock road at the corner of Rexham Terrace is the house built and occupied by Kenelm Winslow, Governor Josiah's brother. The detour passes under R.R. and rejoins the main route. From Marshfield the State Road crosses Duck Hill River to the little village of Millbrook east of the broad expanse of the Duxbury marshes, across which are seen the tall aerials of the wireless station at Brant Rock and the Standish monument on 534 MARSHFIELD DUXBURY Captain's Hill, Duxbury. A half mile beyond at the four corners the State Road, with red markers, continues straight ahead inland to Island Creek and Kingston. Detour to Duxbury and Powder Point. Turning sharp to the left cross R.R. at Duxbury Station. 3.0 DUXBURY. Alt 31 ft. Pop (twp) 1688 (1910), 1921 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1630. Indian name Mattakeeset. Duxbury was named for Duxborough Hall, the home of the Standish family in England, for Miles Standish early left the Plymouth Colony and established himself here. In the last decade the native agricultural and fishing popula- tion has dwindled, but the development of the summer and residential colony has grown. On the street leading from the station is the Wright Memorial Library, and directly opposite on the left is the Wright estate, one of the finest on the South Shore. Near the station is the Alden house, a gray shingled structure on a grassy knoll overlooking the Blue Fish river. It is about two hundred and forty years old and was built by a grandson of John and Priscilla. Here John Alden, after his marriage with Priscilla Mullens whose home had been in Barnstable (p 546), built his house in 1631. It is now the prop- erty of the Alden Kindred Association. The brown house on the right a little further on is the telegraph office for the Atlantic Cable from Brest, France. It comes to land on the beach a mile and a half away. The landing of the cable in 1869 was celebrated with elaborate public ceremonies. Note. The road straight on leads to the Powder Point peninsula, the center of gayety in summer time and of educational effort in the winter, for here is the Powder Point School for Boys. From the tip of the peninsula a long pile bridge leads to Duxbury Beach, six miles long, the finest of the Old Colony. At its southern end is the Gurnet, a bluff eighty feet high, on which are the Twin Gurnet Lights and a Life Saving Station. The Gurnet is geologically pre-glacial and prob- ably the same age as the Third Cliff at Scituate. Halfway from the bridge to the Gurnet is a low hill of the same formation entirely sur- rounded by sand, on which are found both fauna and flora of typical southern varieties not elsewhere found so far north. At low tide are exposed vast areas of mud flats from which come the famous Duxbury clams. A recent article in the "New York Times" says that the Dux- bury singing clams "have been the greatest attraction of Duxbury since the landing of the Pilgrims," but although the clams have long been known for their excellent flavor, their vocal ability seems to await development until arrival in New York. From the telegraph office we turn at right angles to the south across Blue Fish River through the quiet shaded streets of Duxbury. At the line between Duxbury and South Duxbury a large English privet hedge on the left encloses the estate formerly owned and occupied by Fannie Davenport, the fa- R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 535 mous actress. South Duxbury, a mile south, is the old part of the town. Stretching back inshore are the hamlets of Tinkertown, Tarkiln, and Ashdod. The road to the left leads out to Captain's Hill, surmounted by the Standish Monument, a conspicuous landmark all along this coast. At the foot of Captain's Hill is the Standish cot- tage, built by Alexander, the son of Miles Standish, in part from materials of his father's house after it burned down, the cellar of which is near at hand. It is a long, low, gambrel- roofed structure, the broad chimney showing the date 1666. Captain's Hill rises abruptly from the Nook 200 feet and the monument rises no feet higher. It was built in 1872 at a cost of $60,000. The keystone of the entrance was pre- sented by President Grant. The view is magnificent. Im- mediately before us in the Bay is Clark's Island, where the exploring shallop from the " Mayflower " landed to spend the Sabbath. This is com- memorated by the inscription "On the Sabbath Day We Rested" on the flat rock near the middle of the Island^ Be- THE STANDISH COTTAGE> DUXBURY yond is Duxbury Beach, the Gurnet, named after a promontory near Plymouth, England, from which a long sandbar, Saquish, an Indian term signifying an abundance of clams, curves landward. From South Duxbury cross R.R. To the right is the old graveyard where " the rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep." The most ancient headstones are now dilapidated; yet on one of them may be read the words, "Here lyes ye body of Deacon William Brewster, who departed this life Nov br ye 3 d , 1723, aged nearly 78 years." Here also lie John and Priscilla Alden, and Miles Standish and his two wives. Miles Standish's grave is in the center of the cemetery, easily identified by four cannon and a boulder. On one of the headstones is the follow- ing epitaph: " Aseneath Soule. The chisel can't help her any." Just beyond, the road rejoins the State Highway, the main route from Marshfield. The road overlooks Kingston Bay, and crosses Island Creek with its salt meadows to the quiet little hamlet of Island Creek. Near here is a model dairy farm, evidence of what scientific cultivation of apparently worthless soil will do to produce prolific crops. The road curves inland at an elevation. As we approach Kingston before crossing R.R. two turns 536 DUXBURY PLYMOUTH to the left into Bradford Lane bring us to a tablet marking the site of the Bradford house, built by Plymouth's second Governor as early as 1637. It stands behind the house over- looking the meadows to Captain's Hill, where his friends Miles Standish and Elder Brewster lived. Bradford may dispute with Samuel Fuller, the Old Colony's first physician, the distinction of being the first summer resident along the South Shore. His son, Major William Bradford, afterward occupied this house, and Bradfords continued to be numerous here until the middle of the nineteenth century. 45.5 KINGSTON. Pop (twp) 2445 (1910), 2580 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1637. Mfg. tacks and hardware. Kingston is a restful old town, long known as the 'North End of Plymouth,' in the midst of salt meadows about the Jones river. Fine old mansions line the main streets completely overarched by towering elms. Rocky Nook and Seaside are pretty summer settlements on the shore. The Major John Bradford house on a high embankment near the river is the most interesting landmark. For years the precious manuscript, the "Bradford History of Plymouth," remained in this house. In 1728 Major John Bradford gave Dr. Prince the Bradford papers, and authorized him to reclaim the History from Judge Sewall and deposit it in the Old South Church. It disappeared in Revolutionary days, but fifty years later was discovered in the library of Fulham Palace. The original of the "Log of the Mayflower," by William Bradford, is now in the capital of the Old Bay State, by the courtesy of the Bishop of London. On May 26, 1897, Governor Roger Wolcott on receiving it from Mr. Bayard, then Ambassador to England, said, "In this precious volume which I hold in my hands the gift of Eng- land to the Commonwealth of Massachusetts is told the whole simple story of 'Plimouth Plantation.'" Kingston, lying about the "very pleasant river" which the Pilgrim leaders explored, and named for Captain Jones of the "Mayflower," occupies the territory which they had "a great liking to plant in," instead of Plymouth, but decided against because it lay too far from their fishing, and was "so encompassed with woods" that they feared danger from the savages. It was one of the earliest places occupied, however, upon the "flowing of many people into the country," which, Bradford tells us, caused cattle and corn to rise to a great price. "No man now thought he could live except he had cattle & a great deal of grounde to keep them. ... So there was no longer holding them to- gether, but they must of necessity goe to their great lots," and they "scattered all over ye bay." Between Kingston and Plymouth the highway is a dirt road but kept in good shape. Just before entering Plymouth, to the left are the extensive ropewalks of the Plymouth Cord- age Company, the largest concern of the kind in the country, employing 2000 hands with an output of $10,000,000 a year. Its steamers bring direct to Plymouth sisal from Yucatan, and it imports quantities of manila from the Philippines. R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 537 50.0 PLYMOUTH. Alt 38 ft. Pop (twp) 12,141 (1910), 12,926 (1915). Shire town of Plymouth Co. Settled 1620. Indian name Patuxet. Port of Entry. Mfg. cordage, woolens, tacks, stoves, rubber goods, insulated wire; cranberry market. Value of Product (1913), $14,374,000; Payroll, $1,376,000. Plymouth is to all Americans a shrine hallowed by its his- tory and associations. "Here are places and objects so inti- mately associated with the world's greatest men or with mighty deeds," said Governor Roger Wolcott, "that the soul of him who gazes upon them is lost in a sense of reverent awe, as it listens to the voice that speaks from the past." Plymouth is not, however, dependent upon its 100,000 annual visitors, for the hamlet of the Forefathers is the seat of important indus- tries that have brought pilgrims of a later day, Italians, Poles, Swedes, and Portuguese, to its factories. The coming tercen- tenary in 1920 of the Pilgrims' landing has greatly stimulated the hopes of Plymouth citizens for State and federal aid for improvements of the town's waterfront. The harbor, although shallow in the main, has three channels 1 8 feet deep at low water and is still being improved to ac- commodate large ocean steamers. The annual foreign im- ports have a value of about $7,000,000 so that Plymouth ranks directly next to Boston as a port of entry in Massachu- setts. As the nearest harbor to the Cape Cod Canal, Plym- outh is expecting an increase of commerce and industries as soon as the advantages of this new canal enterprise are real- ized, looo acres of flats in the harbor are now planted with clams. Nothing of the product is wasted. The clams are graded as carefully as Western apples; the shells are used for poultry-feeding and road-making, and the canning furnishes clam bouillon as a by-product. By this economic handling a profit of $5oo-$75o an acre is readily obtainable. Brook trout for market and spawn for the supply of streams through- out New England are raised on a large scale. Cranberry cult- ure of 1 200 acres of bog produces upward of $300,000 worth annually, and Plymouth markets one fourth of the entire cranberry crop of the United States. Entering the town on Court St., the National Monument to the Forefathers rises from a hill to the right, one block distant on Allerton St. It is 81 feet high, of Maine granite, completed in 1889, thirty years after the cornerstone was laid. The sur- mounting statue, 36 feet high, represents Faith, and below on buttresses are monolith seated figures of Morality, Law, Edu- cation, and Freedom. Below alto-reliefs illustrate scenes of early Pilgrim history, and panels give the names of the "May- flower" company. The view from the hill is beautiful. Below lie Plymouth and the circle of Plymouth Bay, its northern 538 PLYMOUTH headland, Captain's Hill, with the Standish monument crown- ing its peak, the Gurnet stretching along the outer harbor, and to the south the bold bluffs of Manomet. Further along Court St., on the left at the corner of Chilton St. is Pilgrim Hall, with a Doric portico, built by the Pilgrim Society in 1824. (Open daily. Adm. 25 cents.) It contains an interesting collection of relics of the Pilgrims. On the walls are a number of large canvases, more notable for their sub- jects than their art, depicting scenes connected with the early settle- ment. Here, too, are the ample armchairs of Governor Carver and Elder Brewster and a little Dutch cradle in which Peregrine White (p 533). the first Pilgrim child, was rocked. Case A contains relics of Peregrine White. In Case B is John Alden's Bible, with the date 1661, and Elder Brewster's christening bowl. Case C contains the famous sword of Miles Standish, "This is the sword of Damascus I fought with in Flanders." It bears two ancient inscriptions in Cufic and Arabic. A sampler worked by his daughter has this verse: "Lorea Standish is my name, Lord, guide my hart that I may doe Thy will; Also fill my hands with such convenient skill As will conduce to virtue void of shame, And I will give the glory to thy name." In Case J are many valuable books, including John Eliot's Indian Bible of 1685, of which there are but four extant, and a "Breeches" Bible of 1599. Case K contains relics of the Winslows, and Case L swords of Governor Carver and Elder Brewster, and a record of the sale of a negro boy, Plymouth, 1753. In the annex is a valuable library, many old portraits, and a model of the "Mayflower." At the head of the main hall, in a case by itself, is the Colonial patent, or charter, 1621, the oldest State document in New England if not in America. Opposite the Court House on Russell St. is the new Reg- istry Building, which contains the first records of the Colony. Behind the Court House is the old County Prison. Turning left on North St. to the waterfront, on the corner of Winslow St., under spreading lindens planted in 1760, is the Winslow mansion, with a beautifully carved doorway, built in 1734 by Edward, then head of the family. On the waterfront at the foot of North St. to the right is Plymouth Rock, covered by a granite canopy of incongruous architecture. In a chamber on the top of the canopy are preserved some osseous remains which were brought to light in the exploration of Cole's Hill, the first burying ground of the Pilgrims. No "rock bound coast" is near, only what was once a low sandy shore at the base of a low bluff, now rather an unkempt region of wharves. The Rock itself is not a part of some huge cliff, but an oval glacial boulder of greenish syenite, with a bulk of about seven tons. It was not till 1741 when a wharf was built over it that the Rock was publicly identified as the landing place of the first boatload of Pilgrims. Then Thomas Faunce (1646-1745), whose father, John, had come over in the "Ann" in 1623, at the age of 95 told the story of the Rock as he had heard it from his father and other Pilgrims. We R. 30 I. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 539 know that Elder Faunce spoke thus because Mrs. White, who died in 1810 at 95, and Deacon Spooner, who died in 1818 at 83, transmitted this testimony to the orator of Forefathers' Day in 1817. At the outbreak of the Revolution in 1775 the upper portion, split off by frost, was moved to the town square and placed at the foot of the Liberty Pole. On the Fourth of July in 1834 the Rock was re- moved to a position in front of Pilgrim Hall, where it remained for forty-six years. In 1880 it was replaced in its present position and the two fragments re-united after a separation of over a century. It was at this time that the canopy was erected. The tradition of Mary Chilton's being the first to set foot on the Rock is groundless, also the claim that John Alden was among the first. The "landing," on Decem- ber 21, was that of the exploring party of "ten of their principal men" with two of the "hired seamen" and six others of the crew, leaving the company aboard the "Mayflower" at what is now Provincetown. When the "Mayflower" arrived at Provincetown, December 26, it continued to be the headquarters while the homes were being erected, and it was not until the following March that the whole company were transferred to the shore. Behind the Rock a broad flight of steps leads up the slope of Cole's Hill. Here "in the little field overlooking the sea" during that first sad winter were buried half the little band, the graves being leveled and in the spring planted with corn that the Indians might not know the extent of their loss. At various times parts of skeletons have here been brought to light, which have been pronounced to be Caucasian and un- doubtedly those of the Pilgrims. During Colonial and Revo- lutionary times and up to the War of 1812 this was the site of a battery. "Mourt's Relation" tells concisely the story of that winter: "This month [March] thirteen of our number die. And in three months past dies half our company the greatest part in the depth of winter, wanting houses and other comforts, being afflicted with the scurvy and other diseases which their long voyage and unaccommodate condition brought upon them, so as there die sometimes two or three a day. Of a hundred persons scarce fifty remaining; the living scarce able to bury the dead." Continuing along the waterfront we come to Leyden St., the first street laid out in New England, and named, in 1823, from the hospitable town in Holland where the Pilgrims once lived. Here just below the corner of Carver and Leyden Sts. was erected the first building, the "Common House," a thatched log hut about twenty feet square. A bronze tablet now marks its site. The new Federal Building, containing the customs house and the post office stands on the land allotted to William Brewster. At the corner of Main St., the Governor Bradford Building is on the spot where stood the house of Gov. Wm. Bradford. Opposite is the Pilgrim Spring, but now pumped from the original source to the granite fountain. Here the street widens into Town Square, shaded by noble 540 PLYMOUTH elms planted in 1784, and here is the Congregational Church, known as the "Church of the Pilgrimage." The tablet on the front of the church is inscribed in grateful memory to those "who, at the time of the Unitarian controversy in 1801, ad- hered to the belief of the Fathers." Opposite is the old Town House built in 1749 as a Court House. At the head of the square is the modern stone church, the front of which is marked with bronze tablets designating it as "The First Church in Plymouth" and the lineal descendant of the Pilgrim church, though not of the faith. In the belfry hangs the old town bell cast by Paul Revere. On Burial Hill beyond and above Town Square repose the remains of descendants of those who survived the first winter and a few of the original settlers. "In one field a great hill, on which we point to make a platform and plant our ord- nance, which will command all round about. From thence we may see into the bay and far into the sea." Marble tablets mark the location of the Old Fort and Watch Tower. Here Captain Miles Standish built his solid timber fort, twenty by twenty, in January, 1621. The next year a larger one "both strong and comly, which was of good defence" was erected, as Bradford tells us, "with a flate rofe & battlements," on which were mounted six cannon. This survived also as a meeting house. At the time of King Philip's War (1675-76) a third and more formidable structure was erected, palisaded and surrounded by a ditch. Here, after the war ended, King Philip's head was long exposed upon its battlements, as that of Wittuwamat, a chief killed by Standish in a hot duel at Weymouth in 1623, had been displayed above the walls of the earlier fort. The Bradford Obelisk on the brow of the hill was placed in 1835 on the site of Governor Bradford's grave. The gravestones here are worthy of attention. The oldest, 1681, is that in memory of a wealthy merchant, Edward Gray. Some of the stones, which were imported from England, are later than the date indicated, as that inscribed: "Here ended the Pilgrimage of John Howland who died February 23, 1672-3." On the westerly slope of the hill is a monument inscribed to: "Sev- enty-two seamen, who perished in Plymouth Harbor, on the 26th and 27th days of December, 1778, on board the private armed brig, Gen- eral Arnold, of twenty guns, James Magee, of Boston, Commander; sixty of whom were buried in this spot." On the easterly slope are a number of stones commemorating those who died at a tender age. One to a child aged one month reads: "He glanced into our world to see A sample of our miserie." A little to the north another commemorates four children: "Stop, Traveller and shed a tear Upon the fate of children dear." On the south slope the coffin-shaped tombstone of Fannie Crombie bears her portrait (?) and the touching lines: R. 30 i. BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH 541 "As young as beautiful! and soft as young, And gay as soft; and innocent as gay." Beyond is the tombstone of Tabitha Flasket, 1807, with a defiant epi- taph, which it was long supposed she wrote, until the original was found in an English churchyard: "Adieu, vain world, I've seen enough of thee; And I am careless what thou say'st of me; Thy smiles I wish not, Nor thy frowns I fear, I am now at rest, my head lies quiet here." Mrs. Flasket kept a dame school and spun yarn at her wheel as she taught. If the little culprits became unruly she used to pass skeins of yarn under their arms and hang them upon nails in a row. Her husband, Mr. Joseph Flasket, died prematurely thirteen years before her, and the widow wrote for him the epitaph: "All you that doth behold my stone, Consider how soon I was gone. Death does not always warning give, Therefore be careful how you live. Repent in time, no time delay, I in my prime was called away." Another stone sounds a note of greater optimism: "My flesh shall slumber in the ground Till the last trumpet joyfull sound Then bust the chains with sweet surprise And in my Saviours image rise." On the brow of the hill, near the white fence, is the stone of Elizabeth Savery, with this classic verse: "Remember me as you pass by, As you are now, so once was I; As I am now, so you will be, Therefore prepare to follow me." From Town Square cross Town Brook by way of Market St. On Sandwich St., near the Training Green, is the old Howland House, " the last house left in Plymouth, whose walls have heard the voices of the 'Mayflower' Pilgrims." The original dwelling had but two rooms and a lean-to, but the present structure contains much of the original timber and brick work. It has been put in order by the "Howland Descendants" and is open throughout the summer season to the public. Town Brook, "a very sweet brooke," flows from Billington Sea through the center of the town, "vexed in all its seaward course by bridges, dams and mills." On the shore of Billington Sea, two miles from the center of the town, is Morton Park, a beautiful pleasure ground of 200 acres, belonging to the town. The 'sea' was named for young John Billington, who discovered it from a tree when he was lost in the woods. Plymouth was the first permanent white settlement in New England and the first permanent English colony in America. It dates from the landing here on Dec. 21, 1620, of the party of eightee_n sent out in a shallop from the "Mayflower," which lay at anchor in Cape Cod Harbor, now Provincetown. Having spent Sunday on Clark's Island, "On Monday they sounded the harbor, and founde it fitt for ship- 542 PLYMOUTH BOURNE ping; and marched also into ye land and found diverse cornfields and litle riming brooks, a place very good for situation." The region was known to the Indians as Patuxet and they had had cornfields in the neighborhood before the coast from Kennebec to Narra- gansett had been devastated by a pestilence four years previously. The Patuxet Indians were almost exterminated, Tisquancum being the sole survivor, having been in England at the time. Returning to his home he became their friend and interpreter, teaching them how to plant their corn when the oak leaves were a mouse's ear size and to place herring in each hill as a fertilizer. April i, 1621, the famous treaty with Massasoit was made, which lasted over fifty years and undoubtedly saved the little colony from destruction. It was broken by his son Philip in 1675. In the Autumn of 1621, after they had gathered their crops from their thirty acres and their furs and lumber were safely stored, they held their first Thanksgiving and made merry for three days with Massasoit and ninety Indians as guests. Fish, wild fowl, and veni- son were aplenty. There was, at last, reason for thanksgiving, for the land yielded bountifully, trade with the Indians was profitable, and the sea supplied abundant food. Notwithstanding Bradford's state- ment that in the beginning "We did lack small hooks," New England, before 1650, annually sent to Europe 100,000 worth of dried codfish. Plymouth bore its part with the other New England colonies in the early Indian wars and according to the custom of the times the con- federation sold into foreign bondage their foes taken in arms. A few, convicted of killing people "otherwise than in war," were executed. The last lineal descendants of Massasoit, two sisters named Mitchell, are now living in a town near Plymouth, and claim land at "Betty's Neck" in Middleboro as their ancestral possession. In 1686 Plymouth came under the jurisdiction of Sir Edmund Andros, the Governor of the New England territory, and in 1692 was united with the Massa- chusetts Bay Colony. R. 30 2. Plymouth to Provincetown. 79.0 m. Via the NORTH SHORE OF THE CAPE. This route along the North Shore of Cape Cod is the short- est route to Provincetown. The roads throughout are now all splendid State macadam, with red markers. It is a beau- tiful trip, skirting the shore most of the way, with repeated and varying views of Cape Cod Bay, approximately the route along which Thoreau traveled in 1849 by stage and on foot. Mayflowers are abundant along the first section of road in the spring, and the cranberry culture is very evident. Leaving Plymouth by Main and Sandwich Sts., following the trolley, we have a fine view of the harbor, the southern arm of which is formed by Long Beach. Crossing Eel River the road runs over the slope of Manomet Hill (380 ft). This marks the eastern extremity of the third and northernmost line of terminal moraine clearly distinguishable in southeastern Mas- sachusetts, through Rhode Island, into Connecticut. On the bluffs overlooking the Bay at Manomet (6.0) there is a summer colony. W. Belmont Parker, traveler, author, R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 543 editor, has a summer farm here. South of the village the road passes Fresh Pond and the sea. The country from here on is sandy, covered with a young growth of scrub-oak broken by occasional cranberry bogs. The present excellent roads on the Cape are of relatively recent origin, due to State initiative. Below Manomet near Fresh Pond we reach the first of the famous Cape Cod "sand and oil" roads, built of the local sand, mixed with Socony asphalt binder (p 800). The heat of the sun on this mixture of sand and asphalt makes a roadway with an asphaltic surface, smooth and elastic. The Cape Cod "sand and oil" roads are now being extensively copied in Florida. There is no missing the main road, for it is marked by red bands on the telegraph poles all the way to Province- town. It was not always thus. In 1802, Wendell Davis, traveling in this region, writes as follows: "The traveller on the publick road from Plymouth to Sandwich would probably be often induced from the sandy condition of the roads, and the unsettled state of the country, to anticipate with some solicitude the close of his pilgrimage." Note. At Cedarville (14.5), a little hamlet a half mile to the left, the road forks. The lefthand road runs straight to Sagamore and Sandwich; the righthand, for Buzzards Bay, is a good road skirting Great Herring Pond to Bournedale (3.0). This village nestling among the hills was once the home of the Herring Pond Indians. Samuel Sewall of Boston built them a meeting house in 1668. The place has lost some of its quiet, sleepy aspect owing to the proximity of the Cape Cod Canal (p 563). Proceeding along the sweeping canal curve, we reach the highest point of the cut, thirty feet above sea level. Near here on June 22, 1909, August Belmont turned the first shovel- ful of earth in the construction of the canal, on the little farm where a famous ancestor of his, Oliver Hazard Perry of Lake Erie fame, was born. We continue through the lovely wooded Bournedale valley to 6.0 BOURNE. Pop (twp) 2474 (1910), 2672 (1915). Barnstable Co. As we enter the town, to the left is the Soldiers' Monument with a tablet in front of it. The town was named after Jon- athan Bourne, a descendant of Richard Bourne, the famous Indian missionary. Here a new highway bridge crosses the canal, elevated thirty-five feet above the water to allow minor craft to pass without opening the draw. The foundations of this as well as of all the other canal bridges are sunk for a pro- spective canal depth of thirty-five feet. The pageant of Cape Cod was enacted at Bourne on the banks of the canal in August, 1914, to celebrate the canal opening. It was a mag- nificent outdoor presentation of scenes in the history of the 544 BOURNE SANDWICH Cape. The site of the Pilgrim Trading Station of 1627 where Governor Bradford and his little band came to meet and trade with the Dutch from New Amsterdam is near where the origi- nal bridge used to cross the Manomet river. At Buzzards Bay (9.0) we join Route 31 with blue markers (p 562). Following left fork at Cedarville, the main route, with the red markers, we cross the Cape Cod Canal (p 563) and enter 19.0 SAGAMORE. (Part of Bourne twp.) Barnstable Co. Mfg. railroad cars. Sagamore, near the mouth of the Cape Cod Canal, is a thriv- ing village strongly contrasting with the desuetude of the Cape towns. The Keith Car Works were established here almost half a century ago, and their head, Eben S. S. Keith, is sometimes called by his flatterers, 'The Kingpin of the Cape.' Round the great car-building works an industrial center has grown up which is a surprise to come upon after driving over miles of sandy oak-scrub. The commerce brought by the canal will probably result in increased growth and development. There is a dock here for vessels making use of the canal. Sagamore Beach is a Christian Endeavor Colony, where in summer are held Sociological Congresses at which are given notable talks by readers of thought and national reputation. At Sagamore Highlands there is a summer cottage colony. Just before entering Sandwich, on the left is Bay View Cemetery, where lies Joe Jefferson, the actor (d. 1905). His grave, marked by a great boulder which he himself selected, may be seen from the road. 21.0 SANDWICH. Pop 1688 (1910), 1500 (1913). Barnstable Co. Settled 1637. Mfg. tags and ornamental glass. Sandwich is a prosperous and quiet village, the center of a considerable summer colony on the hills round about. Bourne Hill to the south rises to elevations of 250 feet. Spring Hill and Scorton Hill are points of vantage for summer homes. From certain points of view among the hills, the sleepy little town with its spires and gables sticking above the trees is some- what suggestive of the Kentish coast town in England from which it is named. The old Tupper house is one of the oldest on the Cape. It was built in 1637 by Rev. Thomas Tupper, a famous mission- ary to the Indians. The house has descended in unbroken line from father to son with never a transfer or mortgage appearing against it. Though rapidly decaying, the heavy hewn timber frame shows the strength of the oldtime con- struction. Here, too, are the ancient Wing and Nye houses, both built by pioneer families. R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 545 Sandwich is the home town of the Swifts of Chicago packing house fame. Their great industry had its inception here in a little picturesque farmhouse where the several brothers com- posing the great family were all born. The Swifts have been one of the prolific Cape families from the earliest days. Near Sandwich is the Faunce farm established through the bequest of Mrs. Harriet M. Faunce as a memorial to her son, the village physician, Dr. Robert Faunce, a forceful figure of his time. It was left in trust to demonstrate the possibility and profit of developing small fruits, vegetables, and poultry on the Cape. The trustees, with the advice of Amherst Agri- cultural College, employ an expert to give demonstrations to school children and others interested. The highway by the Faunce Demonstration Farm was the first "sand and oil" road built by the State Highway Commission. This is the oldest town on the Cape, established by a grant from Plymouth Colony in 1637, to 25 settlers chiefly from Lynn and Saugus, still represented by the Freeman family. Its boundaries were estab- lished by Miles Standish, who was a surveyor, assisted by his friend John Alden. It early became a fishing village, and the gentle art of whale killing was early developed. In i6gi Ichabod Paddock of Yar- mouth engaged to go to Nantucket "to instruct the people in the art of killing whales" by the employment of boats from the shore. In 1702 Sandwich gave to Rev. Roland Cotton "all such drift whales as shall, during the time of his ministry, be driven or cast ashore within the limits of the town, being such as shall not be killed with hands." As the historian of 1802 says: "The employment of the people on this shore is both maritime and agricultural. The town in its general character is more agricultural, however, than otherwise, and more so than any other in the country. The inhabitants in general are sub- stantial livers. From their vicinity to the sea, they are enabled to draw a considerable portion of their subsistence from its bosom." From about 1820 to 1880 there were glass works here, for a long time the largest in the nation. From Sandwich to Barnstable we pass great reaches of marshland known as The Great Marshes where farmers gather salt hay in summer. In the autumn the wild duck, coot, snipe, and other game birds attract the sportsman. Off to the left can 'be seen the great white sand dunes. This country is familiar to many through the watercolors of Dodge Mac- Knight, whose house stands behind a high hedge on the right. On Lawrence Lake, East Sandwich, is Camp Cotuit for girls. West Barnstable (28.5) overlooks the salt marshes. A number of old Dutch windmills on the Cape were formerly used to grind corn or to pump sea water into wooden vats for the purpose of making salt by evaporation. Salt making was especially carried on about Sandwich and Barnstable. Tho- reau says: "The most foreign and picturesque structure on the Cape to an inlander, not excepting the salt works, are the 546 SANDWICH BARNSTABLE windmills, gray-looking octagonal towers with long timbers slanting to the ground in the rear, and these resting on a cart- wheel by which their fans are turned round to the wind. . . . Sailors making land commonly steer by them, or by the meeting- houses. In the country we are obliged to steer by the meeting- houses alone." The persistence of Indian names in Barnstable County is more noticeable than in any other part of the State. The names of the towns are generally English, but those of the lakes, streams, and localities are largely Indian. 32.5 BARNSTABLE. Pop (twp) 4676 (1910), 4995 (1915). County- seat of Barnstable Co. Settled 1639. Ind. Commaquid. Barnstable is a pleasant, restful town with a broad, shady main street and a number of quaint, staid old houses. Unlike most of the Cape, the soil about Barnstable is very fertile and supplies the surrounding summer resorts with milk, vegetables, and poultry. There are twenty-seven lakes and ponds in the town. In the autumn it is the scene of a very popular county fair. James Otis, the orator and signer of the Declaration of Independence, and Massachusetts' greatest Chief Justice, Lemuel Shaw, were natives of Barnstable. Barnstable boasts the oldest bell in New England, cast in 1675, now in the office of the clerk of the courts. On March 12, 1697, a ship was wrecked off this coast, and the captain and his crew were buried in the graveyard of the First Parish Church by the town of Sandwich. In return for this kindness the captain's widow, who lived in New York, sent the town this bell. Five years later it was taken to Barnstable for the court house belfry and saved when that building was destroyed by fire in 1827. It was hung in the tower of the new court house in 1833 and was rung regularly at the opening session of each court until 1874. In 1872, on the night before the Fourth some of the boys of the town used a hammer on the bell and cracked it. Two years later it was replaced by a new one. Here lived Miss Priscilla Mullens, the prepossessing young lady to whom John Alden long was thought to have carried Miles Standish's proposal. Miles Standish, who was a surveyor by profession, made most of the original surveys on this part of the Cape. It was probably while practicing his profession in this region that he became acquainted with Priscilla. As he was a married man, nothing came of it, but by the tradition, six weeks after Mrs. Standish died he sent his friend John to make a proposal. Despite the recent obsequies, this does not seem to have been taken amiss, for the young lady herself spoke up: "If the great captain of Plymouth is so very eager to wed me, Why does he not come himself, and take the trouble to woo me? If I am not worth the wooing, I am not worth the winning. Archly the maiden smiled, and, with eyes o'errunning with laughter, Said in a tremulous voice, 'Why don't you speak for yourself, John? ' " This romance has been blasted by a direct descendant of the prin- cipals, Rev. Paul Sturtevant Howe, who says: "It is entirely groundless. Miles Standish's first wife died Jan. 21, 1621. Priscilla's father, William Mullens, died the 2istof the following R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 547 February. John Alden married her while busy nursing her father in a hut. It is unbelievable that Miles courted Priscilla three weeks after the death of his wife. Later Miles married a certain Barbara, who came over in 1623. John Alden and Priscilla had a daughter Sarah, and Miles Standish and Barbara had a son Alexander. These two children were married, and that is the real romance." Barnstable formerly had a considerable whaling fleet. When a vessel was sighted making the harbor, there was commotion in the little port. In the rear of the Post Office a blue flag, bearing the word "Ship," in large letters, was dis- played on a tall flagstaff. Owners, captains, seamen, women, and children every one who had a venture on the deep then gathered to speculate as to which of the port's eighty-two vessels the incoming ship might be and the extent and value of her catch. Meantime the 'camels,' a floating drydock used for lifting vessels over the bar, was steaming out to the harbor bar. There it was sunk, the vessel was towed within, and as the water was pumped from the 'camels' it rose with the ship in its embrace and propelled itself and its burden over the bar. The Cunnnaquid Golf Links, an excellent nine-hole course, are situated near the Barnstable-Yarmouth line. Strangers may obtain golfing privileges for the day or week by applying to the Greenkeeper at the golf house. The natives of Yarmouth Port (35.5) in the past were famous seafaring folk, and half a century ago every other house held a retired sea-captain. The houses sit cheek by jowl along both sides of the elm-shaded main street which runs for some miles through the Port and Yarmouth. They have a settled look as though they had been here for some time. Clifton Johnson writes: "Very few dwellings ventured aside from this double column. Apparently no other situation was orthodox, and I suppose the families which lived off from this one street must have sacrificed their social standing in so doing." The Lovell house (1697), on Hallet and Main Sts., faces Railroad Ave. The Thacher house, at the corner of Hallet and Thacher Sts., was built in 1680 by Colonel John Thacher. The Thacher family has been prominent hereabouts since the first settlement, 1639, when Anthony Thacher was one of the three original grantees. Thacher Island off Cape Ann was so named because Anthony with his wife and children were wrecked there in the great storm of 1635 (p 648). A seafaring folk in their time, they have since taken a large part in the later developments of the county and State. Congressman Thomas C. Thacher now represents the Cape district. Note. From Yarmouthport, to the right of a small store, a good road runs south to Hyannis, three miles. It crosses 548 BARNSTABLE BREWSTER R.R. near the station; about a mile out on the right in an oak grove is the Yarmouth Camp Ground where camp-meetings have been held for twoscore years. 36.5 YARMOUTH. Pop (twp) 1420 (1910), 1415 (1915). Barn- stable Co. Settled 1639. Indian name Mattacheese. Mfg. wirework; cranberries and fish. Yarmouth with its several dependent villages is typical of Cape towns. Whaling was profitable for a time and was fol- lowed by codding. After the Revolution, salt works were established. Now it is a small fishing port which caters largely to the summer tourist. There was once an Indian town and meeting house near Swan's Pond; and the Indian burial-place is still visible. One of these Indians was the first man of the provincial army to enter the grand battery at Louisburg in 1745. "He crawled in at the embrasure," says Dr. Alden, "and opened the gate which Vaughan immediately entered, the enemy having withdrawn from this battery; though, at the time, this circumstance was not known." 40.0 DENNIS. Pop (twp) 1919 (1910), 1822 (1915). Barnstable Co. Inc. 1794. Indian name Nobscussett. Dennis, a quiet village, named for its first minister, Rev. Josiah Dennis, derived much of its importance in the olden days from the fishing and coasting trade, and at the beginning of the last century from the salt works established here. The salt vats extended along the shore, into which the sea water was pumped by windmills and evaporated by sun power. At night and in rainy weather the vats were covered with shingle roofs. According to the old historian, it was a very respecta- ble town. He goes on to say, "Masonry in this, and in the other towns of the county where lodges exist, is in good repute, the brethren being in general respectable both for their property and moral character." In 1837 Dennis claimed no fewer than 150 skippers sailing from American ports, and at that time it played no small part in the coasting trade. As late as 1870 it still had forty-eight vessels employed in cod and mackerel fisheries. Some very fast clippers were built by the Shivericks, the best-known ship- builders on the Cape, vessels especially noted for their swift voyages to and from Calcutta and San Francisco. All this was changed after the Civil War, when steam conquered sails. There are attractive estates at Nobscussett Point and other parts of the shore. From the bluff at the Point, a watch was formerly kept for the whales that entered the Bay. There is an old Indian cemetery among the hills. It was in the '4o's that a native of Dennis discovered that wild cranberries could be tamed. He found that the vines growing near the shore, where the sand was blown over them, R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 549 were more prolific, and from this simple discovery has devel- oped the whole art of cranberry culture. Scargo Lake, at the foot of Scargo Hill (160 ft), between Dennis and East Dennis, has an interesting Indian legend connected with it. A beauteous Indian maiden, the daughter of a sachem, desired to have a fish pond of her own, so deep that the water could not dry away in summer and cause the death of her little fishes. To gratify this wish, the women of the tribe came together and scraped up the earth with their clamshells for weeks and weeks, until they had made a huge cavity. Then the "braves" of the tribe, in consideration of her rank and beauty, brought water and filled it. Thus was Scargo Lake formed. The earth which had been thrown out made Scargo Hill. Dennis, like most of the Cape towns, has a brood of little Dennises all about it. There is North Dennis, South Dennis, West Dennis, Dennisport, and East Dennis (42.0), through which latter the route passes. Note. The macadam road to the right leads to West Dennis and Route 31 (p 570). 46.5 BREWSTER. Pop (twp) 631 (1910), 783 (1915). Barnstable Co. Settled 1800. Indian name Sawkattukett. Brewster, named in honor of Elder Brewster of the "May- flower" Pilgrims, is a sleepy old fishing village which is enliv- ened in summer by the advent of the tourist. Before the Civil W T ar it was a flourishing port, and it is said that in 1850 more sea-captains went on foreign voyages from Brewster than from any other place in the United States. The residence of the late Albert Crosby, a former sea-captain, contains a notable collection of paintings, which is open to visitors. Joseph C. Lincoln, the wellknown writer of Cape Cod stories, was born here. Among his most popular books are "Partners of the Tide" and '' Cap'n Eri." Just beyond the town on the left is Fieldstone Hall, the mag- nificent estate of Roland Nickerson, one of the many Cape boys who have become rich in the big cities and then returned home to build large places. Sea Pines School for girls is located here between the main street and the water (p 800) . A herring brook is owned by the town and at the annual town meeting a committee is appointed to catch the fish and to dispose of them. In former years the yield has often been as much as 300 barrels. Brewster has never quite forgiven Thoreau for going to sleep in the stage coach which brought him through the town in the night, so that his famous book dismisses it with but a word. The shore on this Bay side of the Cape is endless in its variety of dunes, boulder-strewn promontories, and stretches 550 BREWSTER EASTHAM of salt sedgelands. Great boulders are scattered about this part of the Cape in contrast to the sandy wastes in which they lie. The oldest windmill on the cape is here. 52.0 ORLEANS. Pop (twp) 1077 (1910), 1166 (1915). Barnstable Co. Inc. 1797. Indian name Namskaket. Recently Orleans has attained prominence in newspaper headlines as the "tax-dodger's paradise." Probably no other town in the country can boast as does Orleans an increase in one day in taxable value of over $1,500,000. In five years the assessed valuation of property has increased from $700,000 to over $5,000,000. Meanwhile with a tax rate of only $3 per thousand, there have been built a new town hall, twenty miles of fine roads, a lighting system, a municipal baseball park, and the town selectmen are at a loss to know how to spend their surplus. The newspapers report that the town is besieged by millionaires seeking to establish a legal residence. One of them accomplished his purpose by leasing a room in the local inn for a month, another by sleeping overnight on a cot in an undertaker's, thereby establishing his legal residence. Another came with his family by automobile and pitched a tent. Sidney W. Winslow, president of the United Shoe Machinery Company, who had summered here for twenty- five years, started this millionaire stampede about five years ago. The town boasts that it has no paupers and that the almshouse has been sold as a residence. Orleans was the home of Wilton Lockwood, a portrait painter of unusual ability who made his winter home in Boston and later New York. At Orleans he propagated wild ducks in great variety. Today the Mayos go in for tame ducks. , Their duck farm at East Orleans is one of the sights of the place and hatches about 50,000 ducklings a season. The township is greatly cut up by the sea. To the east is Nauset Beach, an unbroken stretch of white sand to Highland Light, a distance of thirty miles, with two life-saving stations. It encloses Pleasant Bay, the largest body of enclosed water on the Cape. On its shores has grown up in the last few years a considerable summer colony. A French Atlantic cable station is situated here. The three windmills are 150 years old. The ubiquitous Captain Smith stopped on these shores with his several ships, and after Smith had left, Hunt, his second in command, enticed some Nauset Indians aboard his ship and later sold them as slaves at Malaga, Spain, for twenty pounds a man. This was a profit- able venture for Hunt, but, with similar acts, made the Indians some- what suspicious though they continued to trade with occasional passing vessels. Orleans incorporated from Eastham as a separate town in 1707 was in the enthusiasm for French democracy of the times named for the Duke of Orleans, alias 'Citizen figalite,' popular for his democracy. The sea was the early source of livelihood. As a writer of the day R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 551 puts it: " The shores of Orleans are more fertile than the land." Clams have always been an important product. The remains of an old- time ship, the " Sparrowhawk, " lost in 1626, were uncovered by the sea in 1863. Professor Agassiz made an investigation which gave evidence of a now closed passage which is shown on an early chart of this coast and preserved in the Public Record office in London, which ran through the towns of Eastham, Orleans, and Chatham and was used in the early Colonial days by small vessels making voyages be- tween the Bay of Maine and Virginia. The great Bellamy Storm of 1717, which wrecked the pirate ship "Widah" on the Wellfleet coast, washed a passage across the Cape between Eastham and Orleans so that a man passed through it in a whaleboat. After the storm it required a general turnout of citi- zens and much labor to refill the passage. In 1804 a canal following about the same route as this passage was cut through the Cape by a company which derived its consent from the two towns. For various reasons this canal was not a success and was allowed to fill up. Route 31, from the south shore of the Cape, joins here. From Orleans northward the Cape has become so narrow that there is no missing the excellent main road and its red markers with- out getting lost in the Atlantic Ocean or Cape Cod Bay. 56.0 EASTHAM. Pop 518 (1910), 545 (1915). Barnstable Co. Settled 1644. Indian name Nawsett. Half a mile to the east across the Nauset Plains are the Nauset Lights on the bare sand bluffs. The lighthouses are built of wood so that if the sea starts to wash away the bluffs they may be moved back. Down the beach to the south is the Nauset Life Saving Station, one of the chain of stations which stretches along the entire shore of the Cape. Eastham was settled by the Pilgrims in 1644 under the leadership of Thomas Prince, at one time Governor of Plymouth, and was named Eastham from the same thought that later made Thoreau remark, "One may stand here and put America behind him." Samuel Treat, the great Indian missionary, settled here in 1672. For forty-five years he served the town as pastor and learned to speak and write the Indian language. Thoreau amusedly remarks on the provision of the town in 1680 that "a part of every whale cast on shore be appropriated for the support of the ministry," and he pictures the old parson sitting knee-a-chin on the sand hills, anxiously watching for his salary. Between Eastham and North Eastham, to the east, is the Methodist Camp Ground. The next few miles traverse a flat, sandy stretch, and then the road runs up and down hill in a manner surprising to those who expect a level sandspit. Ahead of us and slightly to the right are the curious wooden trestle towers of the wireless station at South Wellfleet (62.5). The station is on a desolate bit of coast in the midst of brown sand dunes and scrub-pine at a considerable distance from any other habitation. It is reached by a very sandy road and no admittance is granted to the enclosure. This station was completed in 1903 and was the third in the world to be built for transatlantic service. The four towers are over 200 feet 552 EASTHAM TRURO high and form a square about 200 feet on a side. They are built of the heaviest pine and each has two great cables stretched into beds of concrete so as to withstand the force of the wind. There is a cot- tage for the operators, a building for the apparatus, a brick house for the storage of oil, etc. Marconi here engaged in experiments. 64.5 WELLFLEET. Pop 1022 (1910), 936 (1915). Barnstable Co. Inc. 1775. Indian name Punonakanit. Wellfleet, the second landing place of the Pilgrims and once a whaling port of a hundred sail, is now a quiet fishing and farm- ing village which caters to the summer visitor. At the present day the shallow harbors on the west coast are only fit for small craft owing to the silting in of the sand. "Wherever over the world you see the Stars and Stripes float- ing you may have good hope that beneath them some one will be found who can tell you the soundings of Barnstable, or Wellfleet, or Chatham Harbor." As an example of what Wellfleet men have done, Lorenzo Dow Baker, born here in 1840, and named by his mother, Thankful Baker, after the great temperance reformer, began about 1870 the development of the West Indian fruit business from which grew in 1884 the Boston Fruit Company, one of the largest of the companies united to form the United Fruit Company, which now has an investment of $100,000,000 in the West Indian fruit business. Wellfleet was a flourishing whaling center in the early days before the rise of Nantucket and New Bedford; in fact, the name of the town is said to be a corruption of "whale fleet." Wellfleet men were the originators of whaling expeditions to the Falkland Islands. On this coast, in 1717, the "Widah," the ship of the notorious pirate Bellamy, was decoyed upon the shoals and wrecked and Bellamy and 140 of his buccaneers were drowned. Those who escaped were executed. From here the road is much more broken and hilly, rising to altitudes of 140 feet. There are a great number of fresh- water ponds, many of them almost perfectly circular, extend- ing north and south. They occupy 'kettle-holes' where great masses of ice detached from the glacier stood while the sand was washed in around them. Wellfleet Harbor, to the west, is formed by a line of islands connected by sand beaches. 69.0 TRURO. Pop (twp) 655 (1910), 663 (1915). Barnstable Co. Settled 1700. Indian name Pawmet. The little hamlet of Truro is on the Pamet river. There is a South and North Truro, but the peninsula here was so narrow that there was no opportunity for an East and West. The name is taken from a town in Cornwall, England. Thoreau says Truro is "a village where its able-bodied men are all plowing the ocean together as a common field. In North Truro the women and girls may sit at their doors and see R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 553 where their husbands and brothers are harvesting their mackerel fifteen to twenty miles off, on the sea, with hundreds of white harvest-wagons." Many of the most skillful and daring of American seamen came from these shores in the days when our commerce was at its height. Truro was settled under the name of Dangerfield, from the terrors which its coast inspired. Perhaps more ships have been wrecked on this shore than on any other in New England. It is said that nearly every family on this part of the Cape has lost some member by the disasters of the sea. In 1841, in one day Truro lost fifty-seven men and seven vessels and Dennis lost twenty-eight men. President D wight of Yale a century ago was amazed at the "bleak desolation of the country" half hidden by the "tempestuous tossing of the clouds of sand." Even then the inhabitants were required by law to plant bunches of beach-grass to prevent the sand from blowing. In recent years forestry has been practiced on a large scale and many small trees, etc., have been planted to keep the dunes from shifting. At this narrowest part of the Cape the land rises into rolling hills among which some fresh-water ponds nestle. In places the land- scape is very striking with the views of the sea on either side. The autumn color effects of the brush on these sand-hills caused Thoreau to wax eloquent. "It was like the richest rug imaginable," he writes, "spread over an uneven surface; no damask or velvet, nor Tyrian dye or stuffs, nor the work of any loom, could ever match it. There was the incredibly bright red of the Huckleberry, and the reddish brown of the Bayberry, mingled with the bright and living green of small Pitch-Pines . . . each making its own figure, and, in the midst, the few yellow sand-slides on the sides of the hills looked like the white floor seen through rents in the rug." The road runs up hill and down dale, crossing the valley of Long Nook in which lies the sluggish Little Pamet river. Beyond, the road climbs the high hill where is the old crowded town cemetery near the site of the old church. Some miles off shore are the dreaded Peaked Hill bars. At North Truro (72.5) the side road to the left of the village square leads to the bay shore, where in a modern cold storage plant are kept frozen thousands of barrels of fish caught in the weirs which run out into the Bay. The bayberry, a kind of wax myrtle which grows in abund- ance on the sand dunes round about, yields a berry which in the fall is collected by young and old. A little factory here produces in the oldtime manner, by boiling these berries, a pure, fragrant, sage-green wax, from which are made, by dipping in the oldfashioned way, bayberry candles (p 800) . On the right after leaving North Truro we see Highland Light. The first light erected here was in 1797, one of the earliest to be put up by the U.S. This is a very dangerous bit of coast on account of the sand reefs and has been the scene of many wrecks. The cliff on which the lighthouse stands is being worn away so fast that little vegetation is able to find root on its slipping face. It supplies sand for the waves and 554 TRURO PROVINCETOWN currents to drift along the coast and build into sand bars and shoals. This is the way in which most of the dangerous shoals on the Cape are formed. Near the light is situated the Government Wireless Station, to which admission is granted. As we continue we have striking views of Province town with its Pilgrim Monument rising from the sand hills and of the lighthouse on Race Point. 79.0 PROVINCETOWN. Pop 4369 (1910), 4295 (1915}. Barnstable Co. Inc. 1727. Indian name Chequocket. Mfg. canned goods; fish. Daily steamer to Boston. Provincetown, just inside the tip of the Cape, stretches along the shore of the harbor, both protected and threatened on the north between enormous sand dunes. It has long been a center for the cod and mackerel fisheries, and the cold storage plants recently erected have increased its importance. Prov- incetown has been famous in history as the first landing place of the Pilgrims, commemorated by the lofty monument. Dur- ing the summer months it is a mecca for the excursionist from Boston, and the picturesque surroundings have attracted many artists and made it the headquarters of the Cape Cod School of Art and other schools. An annual summer exhibition is held by the Art Association in the Town Hall. The nucleus of a permanent collection has been established by the gifts of C. W. Hawthorne, W. F. Halsall, and E. A. Webster. The U.S. North Atlantic fleet assembles in the harbor nearly every summer. Provincetown is a wide-awake, prosperous community and boasts that a third of its taxes is spent on schools. Commercial Street follows the water line with the usual sea- shore variety of outfitting shops, shipyards backing on the beach, and dwelling houses opposite, facing the harbor view. The flavor of the sea is over all. Dooryards are decorated with whales' jaws, ships' cannon or figure-heads. Festooned fins ornament the fences. Some of the houses have jutting upper stories. Here are mansions of former sea-captains and innumerable modern and cheaper constructions. The Pilgrim Monument (250 ft) on Town Hill, commemo- rating the first landing, dominates sea and land. Its corner- stone was laid by Roosevelt and dedicated by Taft, Aug. 5, 1910. It is the tallest masonry tower in this country except the Washington Monument. In design it follows the noted Torre del Mangia of Siena. It is of rough-faced Maine granite and cost $100,000. The Universalist Church with its perfectly balanced towers is one of the finest Colonial churches on the Cape, even in New England. It is claimed that it was built from original designs by Sir Christopher Wren. R. 30 2. PLYMOUTH TO PROVINCETOWN 555 A touch of local color is given by the settlements of Portu- guese, locally called 'Portagees,' most of whom originally came from the Azores. They work at gardening, in the can- ning factories, or tend the fish-weirs. Many return to the Azores with their savings, but an ever-increasing number settle permanently on the Cape. About nine tenths of the people in Barnstable County are of English descent, but a very large proportion of the foreign element is Portuguese. Provincetown is the home of the 'Ambergris King,' Mr. David C. Stull. This very rare substance, which comes only from diseased sperm whales, is used as the basis of perfumes. Mr. Stull, as purchasing agent for French perfumers, deals in more ambergris than any other man in the world. A pound of pure ambergris is worth about $500. It is said that in the history of the world only about a ton and a half has been offered for sale and that Mr. Stull has bought half that amount. Cape Cod has been likened to a vast fish-hook reaching into the sea, with Race Point as the tip of the hook and Long Point as the barb. The waves and currents have formed this hook from the sand blown from the great dunes. Two miles west- ward from Long Point is Wood End. Station, the first of a string of life-saving stations that extend along the Cape. Near Race Point, Provincetown, the British frigate "Somer- set" was wrecked in 1778 and 480 men were made prisoners. The hinterland of Provincetown is a region of great sand dunes, ever changing, advancing, creeping forward. These "Province Lands" still belong to the Commonwealth and are in charge of a State superintendent. 3300 acres of the tip of the Cape have been an outdoor laboratory for a succession of experiments during the last twenty-five years. Forests ex- isted here in early times, but were destroyed by fires and graz- ing. As early as 1825 a State Commissioner was appointed to find a method to prevent the shifting of the sands by the fifty-mile gales, and the pulling or cutting of beach grass and the pasturing of cattle was forbidden. In 1885 systematic forestry experiments were started; good results have been obtained by planting bayberries, and trees such as silver oak and the native pine. In 1907 alone about 40,000 pines were planted. Congress has appropriated funds to aid in this reclamation work and to improve Provincetown. This tract will probably form part of a future great state park. The first white men's visit to this region was probably that of the Norsemen, 1006, chronicled in the "Saga of Eric the Red," whose Furdurstrandi, or "gleaming strands," tally remarkably with the glistening dunes of the eastern shore. Provincetown was probably visited by Cortereal as early as 1501. Gosnold explored it in 1602 and Joe Smith loitered here in 1614. The tip of Cape Cod was the 556 PROVINCE-TOWN first land which the Pilgrims sighted. They anchored Nov. 11, 1620, three quarters of a mile from shore, in Provincetown Harbor. In order to land they were forced to wade a "bow shot." Here, on board the "Mayflower" was born Peregrine White, the first New Englander of European parentage (p 533). While the "Mayflower" lay in this harbor, the celebrated "Compact" was drawn up and signed by the forty-one men of the company. This was before suffragette days so the women were not even asked to sign. It was brief and read: "In the name of God, Amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal subjects of our dread sovereign lord, King James, by the grace of_ God, of Great Britain, France, and Ireland, King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken, for the glory of God, and advancement of the Christian faith, and honor of our king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of Virginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and of one anothftr, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic, for our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid; and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought most meet and expedient for the general good of the colony; unto which we promise all due submis- sion and obedience. In witness whereof we have hereunder inscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the nth of November, in the year of the reign of our sovereign lord, King James, of England, France, and Ireland, the i8th, and of Scotland the 54th, Anno Domini, 1620." Standish and sixteen men with "musket, sword, and corslet," landed at Long Point to spy out the land. They chased the unre- sisting Indians, pillaged graves, and carried off everything portable. The whaling industry of the United States began here, and Nan- tucket learned its methods from her neighbor. In the early days, whales swam along the shore of Cape Cod. Watchmen stationed on the hills signaled when one was in sight and the boats were rushed out. Cotton Mather refers to the fisheries, and even in 1730 six small whales were taken in a harbor. Later in the century when it became neces- sary to go further and further afield in search of whales, Nantucket completely eclipsed Provincetown and became the center of the indus- try. In 1865, Provincetown still had twenty-eight vessels with 500 men in the whaling fisheries. The town dates from 1727, and the inhabitants, because of their exposed and perilous position, were exempt from taxes and military duty, hence its incorporation as the 'Province Town.' In 1748, we are told, so many had moved away or been lost at sea that only three houses were left. The Government bought the land and houses to protect the harbor, and the houses were floated across. A store now standing near the railway station was a school house before it was floated across the harbor. During the War of 1812 the harbor was the rendezvous of the British frigates. It was in Provincetown that Mason and Slidell, the envoys of the Confederate States to Great Britain and France, who had been forcibly taken from the British ship, "Trent," were restored by the Federal authorities to H.M.S. "Ri- naldo," after their detention at Fort Warren, in Boston Harbor. R. 31. BOSTON to CHATHAM & ORLEANS. 1305m. Via BROCKTON, BRIDGEWATER, MIDDLEBORO, and the SOUTH SHORE OF CAPE COD. This route is the most direct to Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod. Scenically it is less attractive than Route 30 (p 517), along the coast. It crosses the Blue Hills and passes through the Brockton shoe belt to the little industrial towns of Bridge- water and Middleboro. For the most part the road is lined with rather dense growth of birch, scrub-oak, and other small trees as far as Wareham. From this point the route skirts the shore of Buzzards Bay to the south side of the Cape, con- necting with Route 30 at Orleans. Throughout it is State Road marked with blue bands on poles and posts at all doubt- ful points from the Milton-Quincy town line in the Blue Hills. R. 31 1. Boston to Buzzards Bay. 60.5 m. Via BROCKTON, MIDDLEBORO, and WAREHAM. Leaving Boston via- the Park System (p 476) to Blue Hill Ave. (7.0), turn right to MATTAPAN (9.0), cross the bridge over the Neponset river and follow the trolley that forks left. Note. A less direct route, avoiding several miles of Brock- ton cobblestones, follows Route 32 (p 572) to South Easton and thence to West Bridgewater. Another follows Route 30 (p 517) through Milton Lower Mills and at the top of the first incline of Milton Long Hill turns right on Randolph Ave. Following the trolley from Mattapan for about two and a half miles and turning right at the crossroads beyond the trolley car barn, the route follows Randolph Ave., descending the hill into the willowy hollow where the Blue Hill Reservation (p 477) commences on the left. Note. Hillside Street (12.0), also called Blue Hill Street, on Route 21 (p 477), forks right by the little church through the Blue Hills to Ponkapog (5.5), joining Route 32 (p 573). This typical New England lane is one of the prettiest near Boston, leading past several little farms and through the Reservation to Hoosickwhisick, or Houghton's Pond. A mile beyond the pond, under the very brow of the Great Blue Hill, which is here all but precipitous, is the Forbes Stock Farm. The main route, along Randolph Ave., now plunges through a notch in the hills with Chickatawbut Hill (518 ft) on the left. Here until recently rattlesnakes still lurked, and even today foxes and such 'varmin' are occasionally seen. The country is well wooded, though with that youngish, thick-set growth which is an almost regrettable feature of eastern Massachu- setts. The Reservation woodsmen have thinned out the underbrush and given the more promising trees plenty of light. (557) 558 RANDOLPH BRIDGEWATER From here the route is marked by blue bands on poles and posts at doubtful points. 17.0 RANDOLPH. Alt 200 ft. Pop (twp) 4301 (1910), 4734 (1915). Norfolk Co. Inc. 1793. Mfg. men's shoes. The village of Randolph marks the northern entrance into the Brockton shoe belt. It consists principally of a long elm- shaded main street on the edge of a ridge which slopes east- ward toward Braintree and the Weymouths. It was named in honor of Peyton Randolph, a noted Vir- ginian, and was long the home of Miss Mary E. Wilkins, the famous writer of New England stories, before her marriage to Dr. Freeman of Metuchen, N.J. The scene of several of her stories is laid in Randolph, and "Leyden," in her "Two Old Lovers," is very evidently intended for Randolph. The chief industry is the manufacture of men's shoes. 19.0 AVON. Alt 180 ft. Pop (twp) 2013 (1910), 2164 (1915). Nor- folk Co. Inc. 1888. Mfg. shoes. Avon is a suburb of Brockton, with one or two shoe plants. Half a mile beyond Avon, the route enters Plymouth County and turns to the right of the cemetery into Ford St., leaving the trolley. At the end of the street, the road turns to the left on North Warren Ave. This detour avoids the rougher and more congested conditions of Main St. in Brockton. 23.5 BROCKTON. Alt 128 ft. Pop 56 ,87 '8 (1910), 62,288 (1915); one quarter foreign-born. Plymouth Co. Settled 1645. Mfg. shoes, shoe supplies and tools, blacking, motorcycles, and machinery. Brockton is the leading center in the country for the manu- facture of men's shoes. Here more than thirty factories pro- duce 20,000,000 pairs of shoes a year, valued at $50,000,000. In addition, there are 135 factories producing leather, machin- ery, lasts, etc. More than 13,000 wage-earners are employed in these industries. During the last ten years the output has increased 60 per cent and is still growing rapidly. Advertising campaigns have made Brockton shoes and the face of at least one of their manufacturers, W. L. Douglas, familiar the world over. All the surrounding towns and villages have followed Brockton's lead and form an active 'Shoe Belt.' Within a six-mile radius there is a population of 106,000. Brockton claims to have been the first city in the world to light its streets by electricity, and the first to run electric cars, Edison himself coming on from New York to watch the wheels go round. It has a good system of parks and some costly residences belonging to the shoe magnates. Early in October Brockton is the scene of the largest county fair in the country. R. 31 I- BOSTON TO BUZZARDS BAY 559 At Montello, the northern part of the city, is the W. L. Douglas shoe plant. Mr. Douglas was Governor of Massa- chusetts in 1905-06. Campello, the southern suburb of Brockton, contains a large Swedish population. Here is located the extensive plant of the Geo. E. Keith Co., manu- facturers of the Walk-Over shoe. In his youth, William Cullen Bryant walked daily from the homestead of Dr. Philip Bryant at Marshalls Corners to West Bridgewater to peruse musty tomes from the law library of the Hon. William Baylies. Turning left into Clifton Ave. (25.0) and right into Main St., the route follows the blue markers through the hamlet of West Bridgewater (28.0), the home of the Howard Seminary. 30.5 BRIDGEWATER Alt 62 ft. Pop (twp) 7668 (1910), 9381 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1645. Indian name Nunke- teset. Mfg. shoes and slippers, machinery, cotton gins, brick, boxes, and nails. State Normal School. Bridgewater, a fine old town with broad, shady streets, is ' the home of several interesting industries. The Continental Gin Company manufactures three quarters of the ginning machinery used and has one of its important plants here. Two hundred and fifty hands are employed in the manufacture of bricks. The extensive grounds of the State Normal School lie on both sides of the road near the center of the town. It is the third oldest in the country, established in 1840, and is the largest in the State. Its seventy-fifth anniversary was re- cently celebrated by an historical pageant. An alternative route from Boston enters here (p 483). Miles Standish bought lands here from the Indians in 1645, and a settlement was soon after established at what is now West Bridge- water. From its earliest days it has been an industrial community. The first settlers were farmers and traders who soon began to develop local resources so that very soon iron was manufactured here from native ore. The first muskets made in this country were manufac- tured here in 1748 for the Province of Massachusetts by Hugh Orr, a Scotchman. Orr was the inventor also of a spinning machine. His house is still standing on Vinton Corner at East Bridgewater, two miles to the northeast. During the Revolution he made great num- bers of cannon and cannon balls for the Continental Army. From those early Colonial days to the present, the iron industry and the production of machinery have been the leading enterprises here. Bridgewater made castings for the iron monitors of the Civil War. The manufacture of cotton gins was begun here in 1816 by Eleazar Carver, whose inventive skill perfected the original Whitney gin. Between Bridgewater and Middleboro the State Road, with blue markers, passes the well cultivated fields of the State Farm in the vicinity known as Titicut. This is the biggest farm in Massachusetts, with an area of two square miles, and valued at a million dollars. The inmates here the year round 560 BRIDGE WATER ONSET average about 1900. Potatoes, beets, and hay are raised in large crops. All work is done by the prisoners. The stoutest men, familiarly known as 'the bulldog gang,' take the stumps out of new land. 39.0 MIDDLEBORO. Alt 110 ft. Pop (twp) 8214 (1910), 8631 (1915). Plymouth Co. Settled 1662. Indian name Ne- masket. Mfg shoes, woolens, varnish, iron and brass goods, tiles, locks, jewelry, and boxes. Middleboro is a prosperous country manufacturing town. William Bayard Hale, President Wilson's investigator in Mexico and afterward his opponent in things political, was formerly pastor of the Episcopal Church, on the left. The Countess Lavinia Magri, formerly Mrs. General Tom Thumb, is a native and resident of Middleboro. The section known as Warrentown, where generations of W T arrens, of which she is the eighth, have lived, was the scene in the fall of 1915 of the celebration of her seventy-fourth birthday, on which occasion she dedicated on the lawn of her home a boulder with a bronze tablet in memory of Richard Warren, the "May- flower" founder of the family. On Barden Hill was completed in 1915 the highest water tower (170 ft) of its kind in the world, a huge cylinder of re- enforced concrete, with a capacity of half a million gallons. Route 16, from Providence to Kingston and Plymouth, crosses here (p 432). Note. South of Middleboro are the Great Lakeville ponds. The road running by them leads to Marion or New Bedford. Asowamset Pond, a mile or so out of Middleboro, is the largest sheet of fresh water in the State, from six to eight square miles. It was here that the Indian Chief Corbitant revolted against Massasoit in 1621 and seized the Plymouth envoys. Standish marched out, fell upon Corbitant's camp by night, and achieved success in the first warlike expedition made from Plymouth. Long Pond and Quittacas Pond are the next two largest of the group. South of the lakes and two miles away is the secluded old town of Rochester in the midst of farming country. This is the mother town of Marion, Mattapoisett, and Wareham. As its name implies, Middleboro is centrally located for the dis- tributing region it serves. The origin of the name may have been from Middleborough North Riding near York, England, or more prob- ably because of its location between the Pilgrim settlement at Plym- outh and the village of the Indian Sachem Massasoit, near Bristol, R.I. The first rolling or slitting mill in the country was here erected and produced nail rods from which the nails were hammered out. From Middleboro to Wareham the State Road, blue bands, runs through a rather flat and monotonous country inter- spersed with farms and tracts of scrub oak and pine. Before entering Wareham the route passes through the grimy little industrial hamlet of Tremont (50.0), a railroad junction, at which is a steel plant. The village of SOUTH WAREHAM (51.5) belies its name, as it is due northwest of Wareham. By the R. 31 I- BOSTON TO BUZZARDS BAY 561 riverbank are the works of the Standard Horseshoe Company. The road runs over Lincoln Hill, from which' there is a good view of the valley of the Weweantit river. 53.0 WAREHAM. Alt 19 ft. Pop (twp) 4102 (1910), 5176 (1915). Plymouth Co. Inc. 1739. Mfg. nails, Cape Cod dories; oysters and cranberries. Wareham, the distributing center for the summer resorts at the head of Buzzards Bay, rejoices in the slogan of the "Gateway to the Cape." It is a dull old village on the Ware- ham river, a tidal estuary, on the shores of which are numerous summer residences. At the Center is the new Congregational Church building and the tall Soldiers and Sailors' Monument. On either side of the shady main street are a number of old residences which formerly belonged to the Colonial iron masters, for this was once an iron smelting center. The stone clock-tower on the little Church of the Good Shepherd is a memorial to Mrs. Tobey, who lived to the vigorous age of one hundred years. She was the wife of the founder of the local nail industry. The business section of the town is reached at The Narrows. Wareham was settled early in the seventeenth century, shortly after Plymouth. In the early days its iron works were important, making use of the bog iron from the neighboring ponds and river beds. In 1814 the British frigate "Nimrod" came up the bay, set fire to the wharves and vessels, and sent a cannon ball into the Parker Mills iron works. Following this the people seized their guns and hurried to Fairhaven, which the "Nimrod" was threatening, and succeeded in driving off the enemy. Years ago the name of Wareham was associated in many people's minds with the question asked the late veteran actor Joe Jefferson by a young lady bicyclist clad in bloomers, "Is this the way to wear 'em?" Crossing the Wareham river, the highway continues to EAST WAREHAM, or Agawam (56.5), where on the right just below the dam and the wide mill pond is the New Bedford and Agawam Finishing Works, a plant for bleaching, finishing, and dyeing cotton cloth. Beside the river the Squirrel's Nest Inn occupies an old Colonial mansion which formerly entertained Daniel Webster and other notables. 56.7 ONSET. (Part of Wareham twp.) Plymouth Co. Onset, situated at the head of Buzzards Bay, is one of the most populous resorts of the Cape region, and during the sum- mer thousands throng here in cottages and camps of almost every description. The village is spread out in a grove of oaks, and the trees grow to the very edge of a high bluff, along which a boulevard has been laid out commanding a fine view of the bay. Onset Bay, still lovely although its shores are crowded, is famous for its fishing, its clams and oysters. The oyster dredging is controlled by town grants, the beds being 562 ONSET BUZZARDS BAY carefully surveyed and plotted. There is a large colony of Spiritualists here and their annual camp-meeting attracts hundreds more. Point Independence, a favorite resort, commands beautiful views of the bay. Off the shore lies Wicket Island. South of Onset, between Onset Bay and Wareham River, lies Great Neck with a number of summer estates. Onset was originally an Indian settlement, and there is a curious Indian Museum here in the Wigwam in Onset Grove. Members of tribes of the West have donated articles to make the Wigwam a gen- uine memorial to their race, savage-looking war clubs, calumets (or peace-pipes), blankets, and hosts of other curiosities. After leaving Onset the road follows the blue markers over the salt marshes at the head of Buzzards Bay. Buttermilk Bay to the northeast, with its winding wooded shores, is one of the most attractive spots on the Cape. On crossing the bridge at Cohasset Narrows, the rushing outlet of the bay, at the left is the cottage formerly occupied by Ex-president Taft. Around the point, half hidden by the trees, lies the estate of Dr. Elisha Flagg, which was long the favorite residence of Joe Jefferson, the famous actor. Jefferson was so charmed with the surroundings that he decided to have his summer home here and induced his sons to follow his example, so that a Jef- ferson colony was formed. Crows Nest, Jefferson's home, so named on account of the number of crows seen about the bay, was rebuilt after a fire in 1893, largely from his own plans. Jefferson spent most of his summers here and took an active interest in promoting the welfare of the Cape. He was the leading spirit of the Old Colony Club, an organization interested in preserving the natural beauty and fisheries of this region. He was a landscape painter of true ability. One of the windmills common on the estates in this locality was a scenic treasure of the actor's. Here he fitted up a studio and from the lookout he could survey a stretch of forty miles of woods and ponds, from Plymouth to Woods Hole. 60.5 BUZZARDS BAY. (Part of Bourne twp.) Barnstable Co. This is the station for the surrounding summer colonies and an important railway junction where the lines for Woods Hole and Provincetown branch. The road from the left connects with Route 30 (p 543) on the north shore of the Cape. The wellknown Gray Gables, home of Grover Cleveland, stands on a tongue of land which juts into the bay. Nearby is the home of General Taylor, part owner of the "Boston Globe." A short walk along Gray Gables road toward the sea from Buzzards Bay station leads to Camp Wampanoag, a wellknown summer camp for boys. Grover Cleveland and Joseph Jefferson, boon companions, passed many happy summers here, fishing in the bay and troll- ing the inland waters. President Cleveland caused many of R. 31 I- BOSTON TO BUZZARDS BAY 563 the nearby ponds to be stocked with bass and trout. Today the State of Massachusetts is careful to prevent the fish from becoming exterminated, and the use of nets, traps, pounds or weirs is forbidden by legislative enactment. The waters, but sixty feet at their greatest depth, are the haunt of bluefish, sea bass, squeteague, scup, and tautog. Squeteague and scup are the most plentiful, bluefish the gamiest. On the south bank of Monument River, halfway between Gray Gables and the R.R. bridge, is the spot where the Pilgrims in 1627 established a trading post, at which they met Dutch merchants from New Amsterdam. In bringing their goods to the post they used the Scusset and Monument rivers, making a carry between, even thus early outlining the present route of the canal. The bay was called Gosnold's Hope by Gosnold's expedition of 1602. The early settlers renamed it, according to "Brereton's Relation," because of the large number of buzzardets, or fish-hawks, which they saw. Just beyond the Buzzards Bay R.R. station, the road to Provincetown and Woods Hole is carried across the Cape Cod Canal by a new 22OO-foot steel bridge. Its single lift span, 1 60 feet in width, can be raised in less than one minute to permit the passing of vessels through the canal. A large area of lowland round about here has been reclaimed by filling in the material excavated from the canal prism. THE CAPE COD CANAL is eight miles long. From the head of Buzzards Bay, it follows the valley of Monument River. Eventually it will have a depth of thirty-five feet and a mini- mum bottom width of one hundred feet, accommodating ves- sels of the largest size. The dredged approach channel at the Buzzards Bay end is four miles in length. The current in the canal runs about eight miles an hour and is caused by the dif- ference of three hours and twenty minutes in the time of high tide in Buzzards Bay and Barnstable Bay. The canal was formally opened in August, 1914, with an imposing pageant enacted at Bourne (p 543), depicting scenes from Cape Cod history, in which twenty-five towns took part. The canal shortens the distance from Boston to New York and southern ports by seventy miles and makes it possible to elimi- nate the dangerous voyage around the Cape in which during the past sixty years 2500 vessels have been wrecked and 800 lives lost. The rates of toll vary from a minimum of $3 for small pleasure-boats to $100 for thousand-ton boats and from seven to ten cents for each additional ton. The canal project goes back to the time of the earliest settlement, when Miles Standish was its first ardent advocate. In 1697 the Mas- sachusetts General Court appointed a commission of inquiry, but noth- ing came of it. Interest in the project was continually revived. Gen- eral Knox and Secretary Gallatin were among those who advocated it. George Washington became interested and in 1776 wrote to James Bowdoin of Boston, "I am hopeful that you have applied to General 564 BUZZARDS BAY FALMOUTH Hood ... in determining upon the practicability of cutting a canal between Barnstable and Buzzards Bay ere this." In 1802 Wendell Davis wrote: "The projected canal, if it ever should be accomplished, would open almost a new creation to this part of the town" [Sandwich]. "Real property situated on its banks would be greatly enhanced in value . . . and a trade between the southern and northern states facili- tated." In 1825 the route was surveyed and the engineers reported favorably. The project was again in the air in 1860, when interrupted by the Civil War. Twenty years later a Cape Cod Ship Canal Company was incorporated and work commenced, but failed for lack of capital. The present Cape Cod Canal Company, a private corporation under Massachusetts charter, owes its success to its president, August Bel- mont, who provided much of the necessary $12,000,000 capital. Actual construction began in igog under William B. Parsons, the engineer of the first New York subway. Work was begun at both ends by great suction dredges which discharged the water and sand to fill in the lowlands on either side. I R. 31 2. Buzzards Bay to Chatham and Orleans. 70.0 m. Via FALMOUTH and HYANNIS. The State Road, marked by blue bands throughout, from Buzzards Bay to Falmouth follows a nearly straight course avoiding the many windings of the shore. We pass in succes- sion Monument Beach, Wenaumet Neck, and Red Brook Harbor, Cataumet, North Falmouth, and West Falmouth, all wellknown summer colonies. To the left the forests of the Cape stretch away to Sandwich, Barnstable, and the northern shore. Their most character- istic feature is the scrub-oak, which grows in great profusion. Fires are frequent in dry seasons, and large sections of the Cape are burned over every year. Although sometimes caused by engine sparks, they are more often due to the carelessness of berry pickers. It may be said in passing that an abundance of huckleberries follows the course of a fire the next year. On this part of the Cape there are a great many fresh-water ponds, some of them well stocked by State and town, and by the Fish Commission at Woods Hole. In many of the clearings are the little farms of the thrifty 'Portagees,' as all the old Cape Codders call them. MONUMENT BEACH (3.0) is a popular summer resort with hotels and cottages. There is a large colony of Brockton people here, including the wellknown shoe manufacturers Fred Packard and W. L. Douglas, whose large steam yacht is often seen just off the shore. From here to the Falmouths we pass through a succession of vacation villages. WENAUMET NECK with WINGS NECK and its lighthouse form the northern shore of Pocasset Harbor (5.5). MEGANSETT is a popular summer colony on a bluff at R. 31 2. BUZZARDS BAY TO CHATHAM AND ORLEANS 565 the entrance to Cataumet Harbor (7.0). On account of the splendid anchorage Cataumet Harbor is an important yachting center. A little coterie of Brookline people settled on Catau- met Neck, and among the earliest was Joshua Crane. 9.0 NORTH FALMOUTH. Alt 59 ft. (Part of Falmouth twp.) There are a number of fine residences about the irregular, wooded shores of Wild Harbor, which is reached by a shell road. The beautiful Downer estate is on Nyes Point. West Falmouth Harbor (12.3) has been dredged by the State and affords a good anchorage for yachts. To the south is Chappaquoit Point, a favorite place of summer residence. At the harbor mouth is Chappaquoit Island, owned by a syndi- cate, one of whom is J. L. Richards, president of the Boston Consolidated Gas Company, who has a summer home here. 16.5 FALMOUTH. Alt 44ft. Pop (twp) 3144 (1910), 3917 (1915). Barnstable Co. Settled 1660. Indian name Succanessett. Falmouth, a pleasant old town with some quaint houses and fine trees, is the distributing center of the numerous surround- ing summer resorts. Along the shore are some of the finest estates on the Cape. To the east are the Hammond and Morse estates; nearer Fresh Pond, the summer residences of Dr. E. N. Nichols, the Harvard coach, and Ex-secretary of State Richard Olney. The woods afford many fine walks and drives, especially those comprised in the several hundred acres of the Beebe estate, and Gilnochie, the Charles Whitte- more estate to the west of the town. In the township there are forty-two lakes and ponds. Bowman Pond has been dredged by the U.S. Government, making it an excellent anchorage for small boats. To the east of the pond is Falmouth Heights, a popular summer re- sort with a splendid outlook on Vineyard Sound. It was opened in 1870 by a syndicate of Worcester men who bought the land and parceled it out in small house-lots. Falmouth was settled in 1660 from Barnstable and incorporated in 1686. A century ago it was a flourishing place and owned about sixty vessels engaged in fishing and the coast trade. Falmouth took an active part in the Revolution. On April 2, 1779, an English fleet appeared before the town and attempted to land. Four companies of militia under the command of Joseph Dimmick had assembled on the beach to repel the invaders, and the British who were making for the shore in small boats deemed it prudent to retire to the fleet. The vessels then bombarded the town, but although many houses were hit little damage was done. During the War of 1812 the British frigate "Nimrod" appeared in the Sound and demanded the guns of the Artillery Company of Falmouth. The Revolutionary hero, Joseph Dimmick, replied, "If you want these cannon, come and take them," whereupon the town was again bombarded. From Falmouth a State Road continues southwest along the 566 FALMOUTH MASHPEE land overlooking Salt and Oyster Ponds. Just beyond Oyster Pond is the extensive estate of E. N. Fenno, with beautiful drives through the woods. Roads to the west lead to Sippe- wissett, where there is a summer hotel and a group of cottages overlooking a promontory of Buzzards Bay. QUAMQUISSET, called Quisset for short, has a beautiful landlocked harbor filled with small pleasure craft during the summer. The shores about are occupied by residences and estates of a considerable summer colony largely made up of New Yorkers. The Pierce estate, the large white house of which is half hidden by the trees, is one of the most beautiful. S. G. Webster's estate has beautiful Italian gardens. WOODS HOLE (3.0) is the terminus of the railroad, the point of departure of daily steamers in season, running from New Bedford to Marthas Vineyard and Nantucket, and the most important summer center of biological research in America. On the shore are the large buildings of the U.S. Bureau of Fisheries, a residence, and a hatchery of the laboratory building. On the ground floor of the latter is an interesting aquarium exhibit which should be visited. Above are accommodations for specialists" engaged in biological research. The first marine laboratory in the world for instruction and re- search was constructed by Louis Agassiz on the island of Penikese, southwest of Woods Hole. The late Spencer Baird, the first U.S. Commissioner of Fisheries, was led to locate his station here because of the abundant marine life in the local waters. This in turn led to the establishment of the Marine Biological Laboratory, a private institution for instruction and research in marine biology. This has been supported through the cooperation of some forty colleges and appropriations from the Carnegie Institution. Mr. Charles R. Crane, formerly of Chicago, now a resident of Woods Hole, has been a liberal donor, and it was through his generosity that the brick building for research and for the library was made possible. Dr. Oilman Drew is the director. The summer colony of biologists includes professors and advanced students from all the leading colleges. Prominent among them are Dr. Jacques Loeb, Dr. E. G. Conklin, Dr. Ralph S. Lillie, etc. To the west the long arm of Penzance stretches out into Buzzards Bay. This until twenty years ago was wholly unin- habited except for a fertilizer factory. Today it is occupied by some of the finest summer homes in the region. The Fay rose gardens here are famous. Mr. Walsh, the gardener, has here propagated many new varieties. Miss Sarah Fay's exhibit garden near the heart of the village, oppo- site the school house, is open to visitors. Mrs. H. H. Fay has a large and beautiful estate on Nobska Point known as Rose Cottage. This has been leased for the summer of 1916 by Sir Cecil Arthur Spring-Rice, the British Ambassador. The elder Fay of a previous generation planted an extensive area of the hills about Woods Hole with European nursery stock brought R. 31 2. BUZZARDS BAY TO CHATHAM AND ORLEANS 567 by a whaling ship from Norway, so that the hills are now clothed with European birches, maples, and almost wholly foreign forest flora. Woods Hole was the name originally given to the channel between the mainland and Nonamesset Island, through which the tide rushes with great velocity. A hole along this coast refers to such a narrow channel between islands (p 38). The Elizabeth Islands extend westward. From Woods Hole a road skirts the shore by way of Nobska Point to Falmouth Harbor. From Falmouth to Chatham the southern coast of Cape Cod is indented by numerous bays and estuaries so that the main road runs well back from the ocean. Many of these bays have been cut off from the ocean by sandbars and some of them are of fresh water though within a stone's throw of the ocean. Back from the shore line is an irregular sandy country, for- ested with birch, pine, and scrub-oak, with here and there a Portuguese farm in a small clearing. Much of the woodland between the Falmouths and Barnstable has been burned over in recent years. Numerous lakes occupy the hollows between the hills, which are mostly what the geologists call "kettle holes," places where great masses of ice from the retreating glacier stood while the glacial sand and debris was piled up about them. Many of the low-lying tracts in this region have in recent years been converted into cranberry bogs either by damming or by draining. From Falmouth the State Road, marked by blue bands on poles, leads through the straggling hamlet of TEATICKET and the unimportant village of EAST FALMOUTH (20.5). Three miles south is the small summer colony of Menauhant, lying on the ocean front. The route passes through WA QUOIT (23.0), an oldfashioned village at the head of Waquoit Bay. Much of this road is "sand and oil" construction built with Socony asphalt binder. At the crossroads (26.0) the State Road forks left with blue markers; straight through is a slightly shorter route on sandy road to Osterville (p 569). 28.0 MASHPEE. Pop (twp) 270 (1910), 263 (1915). Barnstable Co. Inc. 1870. This is a quiet village in a country of ponds and cranberry bogs. It lies at the edge of the beautiful Mashpee Lake, the largest on the Cape. Daniel Webster, Grover Cleveland, the late Governor Russell, Joe Jefferson, and other anglers and fish- ermen of renown have all regarded Mashpee as a choice resort. In the old hotel Attaquin, built by Webster's old Indian guide, all of these enthusiasts and many another have slept. 568 MASHPEE HYANNIS The Indian village is at the southern end of the town. The only church, Baptist, is largely supported by an ancient fund, the expenditure of which is entrusted to the authorities of Harvard University. There is an Indian graveyard nearby. At the time of the Pilgrims the Mashpee tribe covered nearly the whole of the Cape, with their principal villages in the vicinity of the present Mashpee. Richard Bourne, the famous missionary, came here in 1658 and spent his life in converting the natives. Seeing that they were being despoiled of their lands by the white settlers he pro- cured of them a deed for about twenty-two square miles of land sur- rounding their villages, to be entailed after his death for the benefit of the Indians and their children. This was the origin of the Mashpee reservation. In 1711 the Rev. Daniel Williams of London bequeathed a considerable sum for the work of converting the Indians there, appointing Harvard College as trustee. The proceeds of this fund, now about $500, form the chief support of the resident minister. In 1763 the first aggression of the whites began when the General Court created a district out of Mashpee, putting the government into the hands of five overseers, two of whom were to be Englishmen, to be elected by the Indian proprietors. The English overseers were out of sympathy with the Indians and a good deal of friction resulted, but the Mashpees remained loyal and nearly every man fought and was killed in the Revolution. The survivors were expert whalers and aided largely in manning the fleets of New Bedford and Barnstable. So many of the men had died, however, that the tribe was joined by negroes and more recently by Cape Portuguese, so that at the present time there is little of the Indian blood left. In 1788 real oppression began when the Legislature put the Indians in charge of a Board of Guardians with no choice in the matter of elections. In 1833, owing to the abuses of the Guardians, the Indians drew up a set of "Reso- lutions," a sort of Declaration of Independence. The matter was thus forcibly brought to the attention of Governor Lincoln and the result was the erection of the reservation to a district and a reappor- tionment of the lands by which the proprietors each received sixty acres. In 1870 Mashpee was incorporated as a town. The route at the hamlet of Santuit (31.5) turns left. COTUIT, a summer colony, formerly Cotuit Port, lies two miles south. The name Cotuit probably appears in print more frequently than any other town on the Cape, and justly. For New England at least the name is synonymous with the best oysters and is never missing during the 'R' months from the hotel menus. Cotuit was one of the earliest towns on the Cape to become a place of summer residence, and it perhaps feels a little superior to those of later growth; certainly here one feels a more con- servative, perhaps a more aristocratic atmosphere than at some other Cape towns. Its harbor is perhaps the finest on the Cape and a famous resort of yachtsmen. Among the summer residents are a considerable number of the Harvard faculty, President Lowell and Professors Taussig and Put- nam. There are delightful wood drives in the region about. Following the State Road and the blue markers through R. 31 2. BUZZARDS BAY TO CHATHAM AND ORLEANS 569 Marstons Mills (34.8), the route enters OSTERVILLE (37.2). This village in the midst of pine woods has a pleasingly rural atmosphere. The Public Library was built largely through the generosity of William Lloyd Garrison, who used to summer here. Osterville is rather proud of its public scales, over which a rustic bower has been built. East Bay is a beautiful back- water surrounded by residences, and the larger West Bay receives the waters of Marstons River. Wianno is on a neck between the two bays. The Sepuit Golf Club has one of the finest courses on the Cape. Camp Opechee, on Lake Waquaquet, is a favorite place for fish dinners. The fashionable and wealthy summer colony of Wianno oc- cupies a series of bluffs crowned with oak and pine, with a number of fresh-water ponds near the shore. About thirty years ago this tract was sold for about $150x2 and since then has been parceled out in reiterated bargainings until today its value represents a prodigious amount. There are several hotels and a large cottage colony in which Boston and Southern people form a large element. Some of the most pretentious summer residences on the Cape are in the vicinity, including the Gaff and the Lindsey estates. CENTERVILLE and CRAIG VILLE (40.0), two 'post-office vil- lages,' form practically one summer colony. The bathing beach here is said to be the finest in the country. 44.0 HYANNIS. Alt 31 ft. Pop 1500 (loc.est.). (Part of Barnstable twp.) Barnstable Co. Port of Entry. A wide-awake little town, it is the distributing center of the neighboring summer colonies. It may be called the educa- tional center of the Cape, as it has a State Normal and Model School and a fine High School. Together with Hyannisport it forms the largest community except Provincetown. Fifty years ago the late Abel D. Makepeace was the village harness- maker. He took to farming "on the side," and cranberry-growing in particular. He held the record for reclaiming more acreage of com- paratively worthless lands for a special line of fruit-growing than any other person in the United States, and won a local reputation, well- earned, as the ' Cranberry King of the United States.' He controlled a large portion of the industry not only on Cape Cod but in other parts. HYANNISPORT, two miles south, with its fine harbor and bath- ing beaches is the center of the largest summer colony in this region. There are a number of hotels in the vicinity and a good golf course. From Shoot Flying Hill, which lies in the direc- tion of Barnstable, one can see the whole Cape from Plymouth to Race Point, with Marthas Vineyard and Nantucket. Great Island, opposite Hyannis, is another popular resort: The route follows the blue markers through West Yarmouth (46.0) to South Yarmouth (49.0). 570 HYANNIS ORLEANS In South Yarmouth at the mouth of Bass River are located the "Workshop" and general offices of the National High- ways Association, an organization fostering a great public movement for the construction and maintenance of national, interstate, or trunk highways at federal expense and "Good Roads Everywhere." This wide-awake organization has done much to bring the attention of the public to the need for such highways. It has a membership of nearly 100,000. Charles Henry Davis and Coleman Du Pont were the founders. Friends' meeting house, now standing in Friends' Village, was erected in 1809, "for the benefit and in behalf of the people called Quakers, known by the name of Sandwich monthly meeting ... in consideration of good will towards the people called Quakers." Between Main St. and Bass River are several old houses. The Silas Kelly house here is over one hundred years old. The ferry across Bass River was run by 'Uncle' Elihu Kelly, who lived on the opposite bank. Uncle Eli was a 'character' and had a place upon the 'rising seat' in the Friends' meeting. In 1837, 365,000 bushels of common salt were manufactured in the town of Yarmouth, which, with Epsom salts, was valued at $110,000. The increased cost of lumber for repairs and the reduced value of salt made the business unprofitable and it is now only a matter of history. The route continues past WEST DENNIS, on the opposite shore of Bass River. Just beyond, a crossroad enters from Route 30 (p 549). DENNISPORT, an old fishing village which caters to the summer tourist, lies off to the right. In West Harwich (52.5), on Main St., a rustic and fantastic construction, a sort of triumphal archway of cedar, attracts attention. This is the entrance to 'The Frasier Castle,' also known as 'The Hermit's.' Mr. Simon Frasier, the owner, is a local character of some reputation. Within the grounds he has boats and water tanks and more rustic arches and simi- lar monstrosities. Wychmere Harbor, formerly called Salt- water Pond, has been dredged to make a good boat shelter. Note. From HARWICHPORT (55.0) a road leads northward through Harwich joining Route 30 at Brewster (p 549). Harwich is a popular summer resort, and a favorite dwelling place of retired sea-captains, which has gone through the regu- lar stages of whaling, codding, mackerel fishing, and salt- making, and cultivates in turn the summer boarder. From Harwich to Chatham a road leads past myriads of neat little white houses by the roadside, white churches, cran- berry bogs, and woody roads, beside which the wellknown Cape beach-plums abound in September. R. 31 2. BUZZARDS BAY TO CHATHAM AND ORLEANS 571 SOUTH HARWICH (57.0), like its neighbors, is a fishing village with a summer colony. Quaint old houses abound in this vicinity, set back from the shaded roads. 62.0 CHATHAM. Alt 59 ft. Pop (twp) 1564 (1910), 1667 (1915). Barnstable Co. Inc. 1712. Indian name Naushon. The group of Chathams occupy the ragged elbow of Cape Cod, facing the Atlantic. The beautiful old village of Chatham was named for William Pitt, Earl of Chatham. Once one of the flourishing ports of the Cape and its harbor a place of refuge, today it is the fastest growing town on the Cape, and a very typical one. A large fleet of fishing boats and coasters make it their headquarters. The surf on the outer shore roll- ing in unimpeded from the ocean is perhaps the finest on the Cape. An old historian once said of Chatham, "There is a doubtful appearance of a soil beginning to be formed," but notwithstanding this "doubtful appearance" there are flour- ishing market gardens in the vicinity. Chatham has a plant of the Marconi Wireless system, the largest receiving station in the world, consisting of a hotel and cottages, an administration building, power plant, etc. This plant was built to communicate with Norway. Stretching into the Atlantic south of Chatham is a sandspit eight miles long, Monomoy Point, which can be seen best from Stage Harbor over beyond the Twin Lights. A similar bar protects Chatham Harbor. During the northeast storms it is often shifted and even broken in two with serious damage to the land inside. As early as 1605 Monomoy had commenced to earn its name as "the graveyard of ships," for De Monts, the French explorer, all but came to grief there. Thoreau writes of the outer shore of the Cape which stretches from Chatham to Provincetown: "I do not know where there is another beach in the Atlantic States, attached to the mainland, so long, and at the same time so straight, and completely uninterrupted by creeks or coves or fresh water rivers or marshes. The time must come when this coast will be a place of resort for those New Englanders who really wish to visit the seaside. What are springs and waterfalls? Here is the spring of springs, the waterfall of waterfalls. A storm in the fall or winter is the time to visit it; a lighthouse or a fisherman's hut, the true hotel. A man may stand here and put America behind him." So great has been the number of wrecks on these treacherous and ever shifting sands that a chart of them by the author of "Eldridge's Charts" leaves hardly room for a ship's grave from Monomoy to Highland Light. From Chatham the State Road, blue markers, was built four or five years ago of Socony asphalt binder and the local sand, applied in alternate layers. Under the influence of sun and traffic it has formed a smooth roadway which leads northwest past Pleasant Bay and South Orleans, joining Route 30, at 70.0 ORLEANS (R. 30, p 550). R. 32. BOSTON to NEWPORT. 70.0 m. Via TAUNTON and FALL RIVER. This route leaves Boston by the Fenway and the connecting system of splendid parkways, skirts the Blue Hills, and from Canton to Taunton traverses a rather sparsely inhabited region with a sandy soil covered by sprout growth. Thence the route follows the Taunton river, which gradually broadens into an estuary, to Fall River, a mill town. At Tiverton it leaves the mainland, crossing the new steel bridge to the Island of Aquidneck, at the southern extremity of which Newport stands. The route is a State Road nearly all the way. From Copley Square, Boston, via Dartmouth St. and Com- monwealth Ave., at Charlesgate turn left at the Collins Monu- ment over R.R. into the Fenway (p 474). Continuing into the Riverway and crossing Huntington Ave. (3.0), the route fol- lows Jamaicaway past Leverett Pond and Jamaica Pond (4.0). The Arnold Arboretum and Bussey Institute (4.5) on the right, as we ascend the Arborway, are departments of Harvard Uni- versity. At Forest Hills (5.5) pass under the R.R. and Elevated viaducts and continue on the parkway a quarter mile, then turn sharp right and left into Morton St., between Franklin Park on the left and Forest Hills Cemetery on the right. Turning right on Blue Hill Ave. (7.0), with the trolley, the route enters 9.0 MATTAPAN. Alt 30 ft. Indian name, "sitting down place." This is a suburb of Boston, and extending across the Neponset river, which is the city boundary, has become one of the centers of population of Milton's extensive territory. Continuing straight through the Square, cross the Neponset river by a stone bridge. Just beyond, at the three forks, three variant routes offer themselves, all coming together at the base of Great Blue Hill, three and a half miles beyond. The shortest route is with the trolley along Blue Hill Ave. To the left, Blue Hill Parkway, a broad Metropolitan Park boulevard with a double roadway and central rows of young elms, leads to Canton Ave., where the route turns right. This is the most level route. The most delightful route is via Brush Hill Road, which turns off to the right. The little common to the right between the road and river is the gift of Amor Hollingsworth, the paper manufacturer, whose estate lies on the same side on the west slope of Brush Hill. Further on, opposite, is the Queen Anne mansion of F. L. Milliken. At the summit of the hill is the most glorious prospect within fifty miles of Boston. The whole of the wooded Blue Hill range rises steadily in gently swelling curves from Boston Harbor, far on the left, to the symmetrical dome of the Great (572) R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 573 Blue Hill itself. Although not more than seven miles long, and attaining a height of only six hundred and thirty-five feet, the isolated dignity of this range is impressive. On the fur- ther hills to the east rise the derricks of the Quincy granite quarries; nearer, in the valley, are the spires of Milton churches, and close to the foot of the Great Blue Hill is the graceful pagoda on the estate of the late A. Lawrence Rotch. Hancock Hill, next east of the Great Blue Hill, is so named because Governor Hancock in 1780 had firewood cut here for the Boston poor. The Vose farm, a little way down the hill on the left, with greenhouses and gardens, is one of the oldest of New England farms, although the house is not the original homestead. Or- namental garden pottery is made here, several examples of which are displayed beneath the elms in the driveway. Half a mile further is an even finer view of Great Blue Hill. Hyde Park, Boston's most recent annexation, lies to the west. It is an industrial community with paper mills, the Sturtevant Blower Works, and the extensive repair shops of the N. Y., N. H. & H. R.R. Through the broad stretch of marshes to the south the meanderings of the Neponset river are marked by the embankments formed in the recent dredg- ing of the river bed that the flow of the stream might be quick- ened and the marshes drained. For many years the paper mills and tanneries in the towns lying beyond had befouled the river with their waste. In the crossroads at the foot of the second descent is a little drinking fountain whose water is supplied, though intermit- tently, by a spring immediately underneath it. Paul's Bridge on the right leads over the Neponset to Readville. The route leads straight on and rejoins the shorter route on Canton Ave., at the entrance to the Blue Hill Reservation (p 477)) where there is a refreshment bungalow and an enclosure for parking automobiles. The path to the summit, one mile, affords an easy climb with a wide prospect at the top. Just beyond the Blue Hill, on the left, is Blue Hill St., on Route 21 (p 477), a quiet New England lane through the hills to Randolph Ave. and Route 31 (p 557), to Cape Cod. The village of PONKAPOG (15.0) begins at the hilltop a mile beyond. Green Lodge St., on Route 21 (p 477), leads to the right down across the Neponset meadows to Dedham. When the Neponset Indians gave up their lands near the mouth of the river now bearing their name they removed to the territory south of the Blue Hills, which they called Punkapoag. "The significance of the name," writes Gpokin, in his "Historical Collections," "is taken from a spring that ariseth out of red earth." Other meanings ascribed to it are "sweet water" and "between ponds" "Interlaken." The Apostle Eliot had already established his "praying town" at Natick 574 MATTAPAN STOUGHTON and in 1657 he induced Dorchester to grant this plantation to the Indi- ans as the second of the praying towns. Many of Eliot's labors are associated with this spot and it was here that he performed the great task of translating the Bible into the Indian language. The Indians were forbidden to sell their lands, but the white settlers, not to be denied, acquired long-time leases, and commenced a meeting house in 1707. The Indians have gradually disappeared (p 488). At the fork in the road half a mile beyond Ponkapog Hill, the route keeps straight ahead. The road to the right. Route 2 n (p 202), leads through Canton to Providence. The house on the left at this fork is where Thomas Bailey Aldrich (1836-1907) spent his summers during the last years of his life and is still occupied by his widow. Here he wrote the essays "Ponkapog Papers," and a book of travel called "From Ponkapog to Pesth" (1883). Aldrich characterizes Ponkapog as follows: "The little Massachusetts settlement, nestled under the wing of the Blue Hills, has no illusions con- cerning itself, never mistakes the cackling of the bourg for the sound that echoes round the world." Note. Just beyond, the crossroad leads left to Randolph (P 558) and Quincy (p 520), past Ponkapog Pond. This and Hoosickwhisick Pond are the two for which the Indians gave the location its name. For the next fifteen miles the route runs through an undu- lating country covered with sprout growth. 19.5 STOUGHTON. Alt 250 ft. Pop (twp) 6316 (1910), 6928 (1915). Norfolk Co. Settled 1650. Mfg. shoes, rubber goods, woolen yarns, and elastic webbing. This rather sleepy little town as a neighbor of Brockton naturally manufactures shoes. The Musical Society, organ- ized 130 years ago, still holds annual chorals. A mile to the east the Pinnacle (30x3 ft) rises to an abrupt crest. Originally a part of Dorchester, the township has in turn become the parent of Canton, Sharon, and Foxboro. Its antiquity was long marked by the observance of old English customs. It is said that on "gauge days" the village boys were "bumped," or forcibly introduced to stones, trees, and other boundary marks, after the fashion of "beat- ing the bounds" in many English counties. Two miles beyond Stoughton the route enters the township of Easton, in which are the estates of the Ames family. NORTH EASTON, the industrial center for generations, has been dominated by the Ames family, who have given many of its public buildings, of which three are by Richardson. A large element of the population is Swedish, supplying skilled labor for the shovel works. North Easton is reached by turning west on Elm St. The Gate Lodge, designed by H. H. Richardson, stands at the entrances to the large estates of Miss Mary S. Ames and her R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 575 brother John S. Ames. Further on at the left there is that of the late Governor Ames, on the right that of his son William H. Ames. On the left is the R.R. station, also designed by Richardson, the gift of the late Frederick L. Ames. On Main St. is the Unitarian Church, a Gothic edifice, given by Oliver Ames (d. 1877); its architect was John A. Mitchell, editor of "Life." As it contains two of La Farge's finest windows and a carved pulpit and screen designed by Vaughn, the building well repays a visit. To the south are the extensive Ames shovel works, founded some hundred years ago by Oliver Ames the First. The annual output averages more than 1,200,000 shovels. Opposite among the trees are the homes of Hobart Ames, president of the Ames Company, and his brother, Winthrop, the wellknown theatrical owner and manager, prominent in the "Little Theatre" movement. Further on are the Library and the Memorial Hall, two more of Richardson's buildings, gifts of the Ames family. Up the hill just beyond is a rockery or cairn by Frederick Law Olm- sted which partly hides the school house and the gymnasium, also Ames donations. Continuing on Main St., which curves to the left, we pass the Catholic Church and its rectory and Stone's Pond, across which is Langwater, the large estate of John S. Ames. A few rods further on is Washington St., which leads to Taunton. Turning right, past the gardens of the Oliver Ames estate, the house and grounds of F. Lothrop Ames lie to the east. John Ames, a blacksmith of Bridgewater (d. 1803), designed the first of the pointed shovels about 1776 and made them by hand. His eldest son, David, founded the Springfield Armory; the youngest, Oliver, bought some mill property in North Easton and removed here in 1803. He is the real founder of the great shovel industry. His homestead is still preserved. In 1844 he retired leaving the business to his two sons, Oakes (1804-73) and Oliver, who incorporated the firm as Oliver Ames & Sons. The former had time to take an active part in building the Union Pacific, and his son, Oliver, became Gover- nor of Massachusetts, but the family industry was ever their foremost vocation. Ames shovels made good and were popular with the 'Forty- niners,' in the Australian gold mines, and on the Rand. For although a favorite motto of the company has been, "Iron is cheaper than muscle," these implements, with their pointed shape and lighter weight, marked a distinct advance toward the modern conservation of the workingman's energy. Today the descendants of Oliver Ames control the Ames Shovel & Plow Company, which with subsidiary companies in other towns pro- duces a large proportion of all the shovels used in the world. SOUTH EASTON (25.5) is one of the less important villages in Easton township. The automobile factory of Alfred B. Morse is the principal industrial plant. Entering Raynham township the road descends to the sixty-foot level and crosses Great Cedar Swamp, the principal source of Mill River. 576 NORTH RAYNHAM TAUNTON 31.5 NORTH RAYNHAM. Alt 75 ft. Pop (twp) 1725 (1910), 1810 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1639. This is a little offshoot from the village of Raynham (p 483), a drowsy, out-of-the-way spot where once the best anchors in the world were made. The bog iron ore nowadays is con- sidered too soft for practical purposes. From this enterprise, however, came the establishment of the Leonard Iron Works at Taunton. Shoe manufacturing was also carried on for a time, but that, too, has been abandoned. The village church was built in 1832 by one of the towns- people as an investment. The income from renting the church pews in that day offered a reasonable profit, but only a Yankee could have hit upon this particular form of speculation. The route crosses R.R. at Raynham Station and passes through the hamlet of Prattville. Prospect Hill rises to the west. Through the suburb of Whittenton the route crosses Routes 16 (p 432) and 23 (p 483) on Broadway in 35.5 TAUNTON. Alt 70 ft. Pop 34,259 (1910), 36,161 (1915); one third foreign-born. County-seat of Bristol Co. Settled 1637. Indian name Tecticut. Port of Entry. Mfg. stoves, britannia, silver, and plated ware, jewelry, cotton goods, bricks, machinery, and shoe eyelets. Value of Products (1913), $16,282,000; Payroll, $4,105,000. Taunton is a busy manufacturing city at the head of ocean navigation on the Taunton river, seventeen miles from its mouth. At high water, vessels of eleven feet draft may reach the Weir, the port of the city. Its coasting trade is largely in coal and coarser commodities. Its industrial establishments, attracted by the waterpower and ocean transportation, include twelve large cotton mills, seven foundries, four large britannia and silverware factories, brick and tile works, machine works, nail works, and shoe eyelet factories. The Green is a rectangular area fringed with lofty elms about which is the business and civic center of the city. On it a small block of stone bears the words "License and Union," commemorating the fact that in 1774 after the passage of the Boston Port Bill the people of Taunton showed their spirit by raising on the Green a red flag on which were inscribed the words "Liberty and Union." Another tablet on the Green commemorates events in Shays' Rebellion when License and Disunion resulted from the misery and heavy taxation of the time. In October, 1786, the malcontents assembled here and threatened to burn the Court House, but Major-general Cobb, Washington's former aide-de-camp, daunted the insurgents by his declaration: "I will sit as a judge or die as a general. I warn you to disperse." Opposite the Green to the left where the Taunton National R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 577 Bank now stands was the house of Robert Treat Paine, a native of Taunton, born in 1773, whose father was a signer of the Declaration. Christened "Thomas," he subsequently changed his name to Robert, "because," as he observed, in allusion to the author of "The Age of Reason," "he had no Christian name." Taunton was the home of Isaac Babbitt (1799-1862), whose name is more frequently repeated than that of any other native of Taunton, for he was the inventor of Babbitt metal. The Taunton Inn, in a modified mission style of architecture, looks out comfortably upon one end of the Green. The Morton Hospital occupies the handsome residence of Governor Marcus Morton. The Old Colony Historical Society boasts a fine possession of books, portraits, and antiquities. Border- ing on the Mill river are the extensive grounds of the Taunton State Hospital, for the insane. Bristol Academy (1792) and, to the north, Wheaton College (1834) are two of the oldest educational institutions in the country. Taunton has the distinction of having been founded by a woman. The diary of Governor John Winthrop, 1637, contains this record: "This year a plantation was begun at Tecticutt by a gentlewoman, an ancient maid, one Mistress Poole. She endured much hardships and lost much cattle." It is said she bought the land of the Indians for a pot of beans and a jack-knife. The epitaph on her memorial stone in the local cemetery reads: "Here rest the remains of Mistress Elizabeth Pool, a native of Old England, of good Family, Friends & prospects, all of which she left in the prime of her life to enjoy the Religion of her Conscience in this distant wilderness. A great pro- prietor of the township of Taunton, a chief promoter of its settlement and its incorporation, A.D. 1639, about which time she settled near this spot, and having employed the opportunitys of her virgin state in Piety, Liberality of manners, died May 2ist, A.D. 1654, aged 65; to whose memory this monument is gratefully erected by her next of kin, John Borland, Esq. A.D. 1771." The territory was conveyed by Massasoit in 1638 and shortly after surveyed by Captain Miles Standish. It was named for the county town in Somerset, England, the home of many of the settlers. Thomas Lechford of Clements Inn in his pamphlet, "Plaine Dealing, or Newes from New England," published in London in 1642, says: "Cohannet, alias Taunton, is in Plymouth patent. There is a church gathered of late, and some ten or twenty of the church, the rest excluded: Master Hooke, pastor; . . . One Master Doughty, a minister, opposed the gathering of the church there, alleging that, according to the covenant of Abraham, all men's children that were of baptized parents, and so Abraham's children, ought to be baptized; and spoke so in publique, or to that effect; which was held a disturbance, and the ministers spake to the magistrate to order him. The magistrate commanded the constable, who dragged Master Doughty out of the assembly. He was forced to go away from thence with his wife and children." In June, 1676, General Josias Winslow wrote in a letter to Governor Hinckley, "The Indians have killed four stout men at Taunton, and carried away two lusty youths . . . the four men left thirty-two children fatherless in a hard world." The waterpower of Mill River, which flows through the heart of 578 TAUNTON SOMERSET the present city, was utilized as early as 1640. In 1656 iron works were established in Raynham, then a part of Taunton, and here all through the Colonial period were manufactured bar iron, nails, shovels, anchors, etc. This same plant continued in active operation for 220 years, under the management of the Leonard family, who founded it, until about 1777, when it changed hands, and was finally abandoned a century later, in 1876. A most singular financial condition arose on account of the scarcity of specie before 1690. No bank notes were in circulation and so little money that the bar iron manufactured here at Taunton became an accepted medium of exchange in daily com- mercial transactions. Thomas Coram, philanthropist and founder of the London Foundling Hospital, was for many years engaged in ship- building here. Timothy Dwight, a century ago, wrote of Taunton: "Were I to judge from what I saw and heard, I should conclude, that the inhabitants have suffered in their morals, from the sessions of courts, and the influence of furnaces and forges." For 250 years the herring and oyster fisheries of the Taunton river were an important asset, but the increasing impurities from the mills have at last put an end to this means of livelihood. However, the 'herring run' at East Taunton, when the fish throng up in the spring, is a sight that draws people from far and wide. Taunton is today the place of manufacture of the Reed & Barton silverware and the "Glenwood" and the "Magee" ranges and furnaces. The route leads past Taunton Green, across Mill River, and via Weir St., and Somerset Ave., through Weir, the port of the city. From this point it runs parallel with and above the Taunton river all the way to Fall River. The village of North Dighton lies to the right as the road crosses Three Mile River (38.0). Crossing the Segregansett river we come into 42.0 DIGHTON. Alt 30 ft. Pop (twp) 2235 (1910), 2499 (1915). Inc. 1712. Mfg. paper, soap, water colors, and tacks. This village is mainly known as the site of the mysterious Dighton Rock. Many houses in the village are of Colonial times, some built before 1700. The Council Oak, which stands on the avenue in the grounds of the Dighton Nursery Company, is unquestionably over 400 years old. Under its branches King Philip and his warriors held their pow-wows and councils at the Pocasset tribe's principal settlement. The village was settled not long after 1672 as a part of Taunton, purchased of King Philip for 192 pounds. In 1712 it was set apart and named Dighton in honor of Frances Dighton, the wife of Richard Williams, an early settler. Until the Embargo Act in the War of 1812, shipbuilding was the principal industry, and iron also has been forged from time to time. During the gold fever in the days of '49, picks and shovels were turned out in considerable quantities, as at North Easton, but within the last few years the concentration of the industry elsewhere has caused the plant to be dismantled. Cotton, paper, and soap are still made here, as well as tacks and nails, this latter industry probably induced by the example of Taunton. The inscrutable Dighton Rock is at the edge of tidewater on Assonet Neck across the river in the township of Berkeley, which was within Dighton township until 1799. It is a green boulder about ten feet long with inscriptions or scratches, R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT S7Q uncommonly like the work of naughty little boys with nothing else to do. Yet these same marks have been the source of prolonged and acrimonious disputations. Edward Everett considered, "that the rock contains some rude delineations of the figures of men and animals, is apparent on the first in- spection." Further interpretation of the marks is more open to doubt. By some the characters are regarded as Phoenician. The late Samuel Harris, a very learned Orientalist, thought he found the Hebrew word "melek," "king." A Colonel Val- iancy maintained that they were no less than Scythian, while Messrs. Rafn and Magnusson were of the opinion that they were undoubtedly Runic. Despite these rather fanciful con- jectures, common sense and learning have agreed that they are Indian beyond peradventure of any sane doubt. In 1857 Ole Bull, the great violinist, commissioned his friend Arnzen of Fall River to purchase the Rock and surrounding land for fifty dol- lars. Finally when Ole Bull died without forwarding the purchase money, Arnzen conveyed the title to the Royal Society of Northern Antiquities of Copenhagen as a gift to the nation, and it was not until it passed through the hands of several more owners that the deed at last came into the possession of the Old Colonial Historical Society. Just across a little brook the road climbs to the top of Richmond Hill (200 ft), from which there is an extensive view. The road now maintains a height of seventy or eighty feet above the river until just opposite Mechanicsville, the northern sub- urb of Fall River, where it descends to the bridge that leads into the city. Crossing Broad Cove we pass through 453 SOMERSET. Alt 17 ft. Pop 2798 (1910), 3377 (1915). Bristol Co. Settled 1668. Mfg. pottery and stoves. This was an early settlement of Quakers, whose ancient meeting house still stands in the southern part of the town. The making of pottery was an important industry in early days which has persisted to this day in the neighboring hamlet of Pottersville. Shipbuilding was also a prominent industry until the middle of the last century. Of its few old houses the most notable is the Bufnngton homestead (1689). Mt. Hope Bay comes in view and beyond the city of Fall River, the commercial importance of which is at once apparent. The wharves and railway traffic, the rows of cotton mills rising on the terraced face of the bluff, and the residences of the wealthier mill owners on the crest of the ridge bear witness to long-continued development of natural resources. Route 17 (p 434), from Providence, joins the route from the right. The route crosses Taunton River by the new bridge, entering the city on Davol St. At gasometer turn left under R.R. and right on Durfee St. At the Armory, opposite the Textile High School, turn left and then right into North Main St. 580 FALL RIVER 51.5 FALL RIVER. Alt 100 ft. Pop 119,295 (1910), 124,791 (1915); one half foreign-born, half of which are French Canadians. Bristol Co. Settled 1676. Indian name Quequechan. Mfg. cotton goods, hats, foundry products, and pianos. Value of Product (1913), $65,221,000; Payroll, $16,195,000. Steamers to New York and Providence. Fall River, chiefly known to the outside world from the "Fall River Line" of steamers, is the third city in Massachusetts in population and the largest cotton manufacturing city in the United States. It has over 800 manufacturing plants, of which in are cotton mills employing 35,000 hands and pro- ducing more than a billion yards of cotton cloth and 800 tons of absorbent cotton daily. Besides cotton goods 10,000 pianos are turned out yearly and 8,500 derby hats every day. The reason for the development of this site as a great mill town lies in the configuration of the country back of the city, making possible a powerful mill stream in immediate proximity to a deep-water harbor. Watuppa Ponds, several miles in length and fed by perennial springs, have their outlet in the single river, only two miles in length, known as the Fall River, or Quequechan, meaning "the falling waters." The river pours its water through a granite bed with a fall of 127 feet in a distance of half a mile. The power is utilized and dis- tributed through subterranean channels in an efficient and economical way to the turbines of the different mills. The limit of mill development along the stream has been reached unless a three-million-dollar conduit system is installed, 1o increase power and abate drainage nuisances. Steam, however, has largely supplemented and superseded waterpower. Fall River, then, is a mill town with all that that implies, a large foreign population with men, women, and children working in the mills. It has the lowest percentage, 13.6, of native born parentage and the highest birth rate, 38.75 to the thousand, of any city of over 30,000 population. Of the 35,000 hands employed in the cotton mills, 15,522 are females and their average yearly earnings are $446.25. At the present time there are forty-five corporations with a capital of $34,000,000 invested in cotton mills alone. Within recent years the competition of the South has resulted in a larger production of the finer cotton cloths. Among the principal firms are the American Linen Company, the Chace Mills, the Durfee Mills, the Merchants Mfg. Co., Pocassett Mfg. Co., Sagamore Mfg. Co., the Tecumseh Mills, Union Cotton Mfg. Co., and the American Print Works, which is one o!" the largest firms in the country that print calicoes. Jas. Marshall & Bros, are among the largest hat makers in the United States, sup- plying hats for the U.S. Army. The New England Fur Com- pany uses daily 35,000 rabbit pelts. The Cote Piano Mfg. Co. R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 581 is the fourth largest plant of its kind, with a production of 10,000 pianos a year. Under these conditions naturally there are congested tene- ment districts, although there is civic pride in Fall River and effort at betterment. Most of the streets, however, are grimy and unkempt in spite of the quarter of a million dollars spent each year in the attempt to improve conditions. The resi- dential district of the wealthy lies on high ground along High- land Ave., and on Rock St., the street of churches. The City Hall and Main Street at that point are built di- rectly over the Quequechan river, as are man}' of the cotton mills above and below. A tablet on the front of the City Hall commemorates the skirmish, on this site, of 1778 in which the minute men under Colonel Joseph Durfee repulsed a British landing force. The two British soldiers killed were originally buried near the corner of the granite block opposite. Route 17 (p 434), from Providence to New Bedford and Cape Cod, leads from the City Hall via Pleasant St. The County Court House is on the site of the home of the pioneer manufacturer, Colonel Borden. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of Ste. Anne with its adjacent college is a landmark visible for miles around. The church of Notre Dame contains frescoes by an Italian artist. The city is built upon a granite ridge rising from its deep-water harbor to a height of two hundred feet. The region, coming as it does within a debatable portion of the transitional zone, is a very inter- esting one, of varied physical features. From north to south, directly through the center of the region, runs the escarpment formed on ac- count of the contact between hard granitic rocks and the soft sedi- ments of the Rhode Island coal measures. A mile or more to the eastward of this contact, upon the upland, lies a chain of fresh-water lakes, extending nearly the length of the area. To the eastward of the lakes are tracts of forest growth, principally of oak and pine, and extended areas of dense cedar swamps. To the westward of the escarp- ment lies the estuarian region of the Narragansett basin, with its miles of varied shore lines and acres of cleared lands. The first settler, Matthew Boomer, built a house near the corner of North Main and Brownell Sts. in 1676, and in 1683 the township was established under the name of Freetown. In this same year King Philip had met his tragic end at Mt. Hope on the southwest side of the bay, and Weetamoe, King Philip's sister and Wamsutta's wife, was drowned in her flight from Fall River when her hastily con- structed raft broke up at a point where the bridge crosses the river above the city. In 1803 the name of the settlement was altered to Troy, but changed again in 1834 to Fall River. The city, chartered in 1854, lay partly in Rhode Island and Massachusetts, but in 1861 the territory south of Columbia was taken from Rhode Island in ex- change for a portion of Pawtucket. In 1832 a skeleton in armor was uncovered in the sand bank near Hartwell and Fifth Sts.; it was surrounded by copper bangles and pieces of copper armor. On the breast was a plate thirteen inches long and six broad. The belt was composed of brass tubes forty-one inches long. Longfellow's imagination was fired by this discovery. With 582 FALL RIVER TIVERTON ingenuous enthusiasm he writes: "The skeleton in armor really exists. It was dug up near Fall River, where I saw it two years ago. I sup- pose it was one of the old northern sea rovers who came to this coun- try in the tenth century." He has immortalized it in his wellknown poem "The Skeleton in Armor." The skeleton's claim to Norse origin was based upon a chemical analysis of its armor, found to be almost identical with Norse armor. In the fire of 1843, which destroyed nearly 200 buildings, this skeleton was destroyed. In 1916 fire again wiped out two blocks in the heart of the city. In 1811 Colonel Joseph Durfee, the Revolutionary leader, built the first cotton mill at Globe Village, where it still stands, by the pond at the corner of South Main and Globe Sts. Oliver Chace and David Anthony were other industrial pioneers. Bradford Durfee and Richard Borden early in the nineteenth century organized the Fall River Iron Works, which today manufactures cotton goods. The manufacturing aristocracy of Fall River the Bordens and Durfees and other mill-owning families are of the earliest settlers. The first Richard Borden came from England in 1635. The earliest conquerors of the soil have here established an unconquerable domain based on industrial force more potent and more lasting than the sword. The four million spindles of Fall River whirl at their command and are served by imported labor. The Fall River Line was established by the Bordens and other Fall River men and developed by them until absorbed by the New Haven octopus. Beyond the city limits there are many popular resorts. The south end of Watuppa Lake is a favorite place for relaxation, and there are numberless holiday and vacation settlements on the shores of the rivers and bays nearby. Fall River aristocracy make their summer homes at several shore resorts on Narragansett and Mt. Hope bays and on the seacpast, among which Westport Point and Acoaxet and the quaint old village of Little Compton are worth mentioning. Leaving Fall River via South Main St., the highway takes us through the section known as The Globe, past the Globe Mill above mentioned, and along the ridge of Townsend Hill, two hundred feet above Mt. Hope Bay, where we cross the boundary line into Rhode Island. A mile and a half further on we skirt Pocasset Hill. Opposite is Mt. Hope, for many years a residence of King Philip, where he made his last stand. 57.5 TIVERTON. Pop 4032 (1910), 4409 (1915). Newport Co. Settled 1680. Indian name Pocasset. Today this is a mere village, because of its road houses known as a sporty spot. Round about are several residential colonies. Purchased from the Indians in 1680 by the Plymouth Colony, it was sold to Edward Gray and seven others for eleven hundred pounds, a startling price in those bargain days of real estate. In contrast to the other Massachusetts towns, Tiverton neglected religion and education in spite of the many protests for- warded to the General Court. The first church was not formed until 1746 shortly before it became a part of Rhode Island. In Revolutionary days the Heights of Tiverton were held by one of the encampments of the American Army. An English man-of-war, the galley "Pigot," was stationed in the Sakonnet narrows. On an October night in 1778, Major Silas Talbot of Providence quietly sailed R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 583 down the river in the "Hawk" with a few men and even fewer weapons and captured the Britishers without losing a single life on either side. Tiverton was long the site of malodorous menhaden fac- tories where the fish were worked up into oil and fertilizer. The seven Church brothers who founded the industries went after the pogies, or mossbunkers, as they are variously called, with purse nets, from Maine to Hatteras. Note. A fine road leads south ten miles to Little Compton and Sakonnet. The countryside, unspoiled by the trolley, the steam train, or any of the excursionist's 'attractions' that accompany them, is of long-established richness and prosperity, with some well-kept houses dating back almost to "Mayflower" days, some delightful newer ones, and fine crags and intervening beaches. It is the most prosperous of all the strictly rural districts of the State and only at the very ' Point ' itself, where the boats from Providence loiter an hour or so each day in summer while their passengers get clam dinners in the dining hall, is there any suggestion of the features that mar the seaside charm of more accessible neighborhoods. From Tiverton the route leaves the mainland and crosses to the island of Aquidneck, often awkwardly called the Island of Rhode Island, by the new steel bridge replacing the old stone causeway across the narrow channel through which the tide races at ebb and flow. Below, the broad estuary of the Sakonnet river extends to the south, its steep slopes show- ing clearly the character of this drowned valley. Far to the south is Sakonnet Point with its lighthouse, a prominent land- mark along this coast. The route runs through the center of the island high up, at an elevation averaging 200 feet. From Quaker Hill (68.0) we have an extended view over the sur- rounding water, the Sakonnet river, and the islands of Narra- gansett Bay. The ancient windmills on the hilltops are thor- oughly picturesque and, strange to say, still useful. Some years ago the enterprising sons of an oldtime miller, who had recently left his windmill and the rest of the world behind, conceived the idea that the time-honored product of johnny-cake meal merely needed business-like promotion and clever advertising in order to es- tablish a lively trade. Not only is there some peculiarly rare and elusive quality in the corn grown within reach of the salt breath of the sea, but all the richness and sweetness, as every true Rhode Islander will testify, is crushed and burned and mangled from it when the grain is ground by any process faster than that of the old wind or water mills of Colonial days, and this is probably a scientific fact as well as a tradition. The result of this modern salesmanship was surprising. The product soon found its way to the fancy grocery shops of the big cities. One mill soon became quite inadequate for the work demanded of it and presently all of the surviving mills on the island awoke from their condition of picturesque retirement and set to work again with all the industry of their youthful days. 584 TIVERTON NEWPORT The Island of Rhode Island is a rocky, wooded ridge about fifteen miles long. The State takes its name from the island, which was named perhaps from the fact that it lies in the roads of Narragansett Bay, or, as has been conjectured, from its similarity in form to the Isle of Rhodes in the Mediterra- nean; perhaps it is a corruption of the Dutch for "red island." The rocks of the island are made up of carboniferous strata, greatly folded and contorted. In the sparsely settled northern portion of the island which constitutes the township of Ports- mouth, considerable deposits of coal have been known for a century or more. The coal is a very hard anthracite which has defied all efforts to utilize it commercially. The last attempt, ten years ago, engineered by H. M. Whitney, re- sulted in a considerable development work and a large sale of stocks and bonds that put plenty of money into the mine, though very little has ever been taken out. Some have thought this coal better adapted for the lining of blast furnaces than for use as a fuel. It has been claimed in the courts that Rhode Island coal has cost the public $3,230,000 cash. The township of Portsmouth was founded in 1638 by refugees from the Bay Colony, led by Dr. John Clarke, a Baptist, who sought to establish a "civil state with perfect freedom in religious concern- ments." During the Revolution interesting incidents occurred here. Butts Hill Fort, about a mile and a half north of Bristol Ferry, and an equal distance from the Tiverton Bridge, was built by the British in 1776. Here two years later General Sullivan, with his greatly reduced and demoralized army, won the Battle of Rhode Island, called by Lafayette "the best fought action of the war." For the first time a regiment of negro soldiers took part in the war. They threw themselves upon the enemy so fiercely that the Hessians were put to rout, and after the battle reported that they had been attacked by savages, "all of whom were more than eight feet tall." Pictu- resque Butts Hill is the best preserved fort in the State. It com- mands a magnificent view of Narragansett Bay and its environs, and its purchase has been urged for a State reservation. One of Rhode Island's boldest strikes in behalf of liberty was the capture of General Prescott, commander of the British forces in the State, with headquarters at Newport, by General William Barton on the night of July 9, 1777. Prescott frequently spent the night at the house of a man named Overing, about five miles above Newport on the west road. Major Barton of the American force at Tiverton, with forty picked men, acting on information a young German barmaid had gained from Hessian officers, by a stealthy approach captured the British commander, and departed with such secrecy that nothing was known of whence he came or where he went, until he sent word from Providence. The house in which the affair took place is marked by a tablet. It is now an ell to the larger building, seen from the road, which is 125 years old. One Jimmy Barker, so the story goes, lived out upon the main road during the Revolutionary days, in a house that still survives, upon the west side of that thoroughfare. A patriot at heart, and survivor of certain marital difficulties, the worthy James, during the British occu- pation, decided that a public proclamation of his principles could serve no desirable end, and being the possessor of a pleasant country R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 585 place and a bountiful orchard, his hospitality to the officers of the Royal forces soon became appreciated and much accepted. "Out to Jimmy's" was a comfortable moonlight canter, for those whose rank or leave of absence permitted some escape from the military discipline within the town. Squire Barker was a brewer of a quite alluring brand of applejack, the properties of which were at once to inspire confidence in one's host and to stimulate loquacity. Around his hospitable board, there- fore, many of the plans for surprise attacks against the mainland were discussed and carefully rehearsed, to which the enthusiastic Rhode Islander occasionally added some suggestion or bit of advice and incidentally made mental note of all the movements as proposed. When his guest rooms were all occupied and the floor under the table was being found no less hospitable than the board itself had been, crafty Jimmy would go out with his lantern to feed the horse or to find his wandering cows. Such occupations as these might even lead him across the fields and down to the Sakonnet river's edge, where the movements of his lantern were more than likely to attract attention from watchful waiters on the opposite shore, who would then paddle across to look for scribbled messages secreted by the waterside. The fact that Jimmy survived the war and lived to a good old age appears to indicate that no suspicion on the part of his guests was ever directed toward him, even though all their efforts always failed to gain a foothold on the mainland side, and a warm reception seemed always prepared for the most carefully plotted British expeditions. If the details of either these attempted raids or of the visits to Jimmy's hospitable home have been trimmed up a bit with the passing of the years, the fact remains that somehow somebody was always well aware of every intended movement far enough in advance to checkmate it most successfully and to keep the enemy's forces bottled up upon the island of Aquidneck. A little nearer Newport, a brook meanders under the road and falls picturesquely into a glen now known as Lawton's Valley. In this romantic spot dwelt Polly Lawton, whose hospitable feeling toward the French officers who followed the English occupants of Newport has added interesting traditions to heighten the charm of the national setting of another old Colonial house. Through Middletown, the next township, the evidences of habitation become more frequent, As we approach Newport, on either side of the road are the pleasure farms belonging to members of the Newport Social Colony. In the paddocks are blooded cattle and horses, and the establishments give evidence of the expenditure of great wealth. 70.0 NEWPORT. Pop 29,154 (1910), 30,472 (1915). County-seat of Newport Co. Settled 1639. Port of Entry. Mfg. re- productions of antique furniture, and chewing gum. Fall River Line Steamers to New York and Providence; ferries to Jamestown and Wickford. Newport is best known as a fashionable summer resort. From July to October the 'cottage colony' along Bellevue Ave., the Cliff Walk, and Ocean Drives represents an aggregation of multi-millionaires and -airesses who control a larger propor- tion of the nation's wealth than any similar group elsewhere congregated. The original attraction of Newport before it $86 NEWPORT became fashionable was an alluring climate with an equable temperature because of the surrounding waters, while the high colors on water and shore, the sunsets, and the highest cliffs between Cape Ann and Yucatan produced land and marine views rarely equaled. Newport had its "golden age" prior to its "gilded" one, according to President Faunce of Brown University. At present its strategic location, which is no less notable than either its position of social prominence or scenic charm, bids fair to bring it into fame among the great naval and military stations of the world, and it is liable to develop out of the insularity that comes through idle-mindedness for six months of every year when the summer residents, upon which the townspeople thrive, are absent. During these long days, Newport, which has no industries to speak of and none of the ordinary activities of the average American town, lives largely upon the memory of the somewhat distant past, when it is not engaged in figuring out its more or less parasitic plans for the coming summer. A prosperous commercial center from the very beginning of the eighteenth century, it later in the same century became wealthy and renowned; but its present vogue as the boasted summer capital dates from about 1850. From the social point of view the only one possible one may easily distin- guish four Newports, and one of these at least is capable of much finer and more fastidious subdivision. The first is the historic Newport of the eighteenth century, adjacent to the harbor as it remains today, a dirty little old town with narrow, obscure streets. A second Newport trav- ersed in entering from the north is modern, a bourgeois, semi-citified, all-the-year-round residential district of thrifty, good-natured, more or less industrious citizens. To these winter residents of the island city, where the pre-Revolutionary mental attitude still prevails to an amusing extent, the rest of the world is looked upon as inhabited by a quite inferior race. The third; the naval and military colony adjunct to the War College, the Training Station on Coasters Harbor Island, and Fort Adams, is another all-the-year-round commu- nity whose uniforms blossom out more conspicuously in the 'season.' The fourth, the Newport of the social pages of the Sunday newspapers, the fashionable Newport to which mill- ionaires aspire, lies south of the Old Town on the flat tableland which forms the southern end of the island of Aquidneck. Here are the 'cottages' costing from $100,000 to $2,000,000, creating a sky line which seen from the Cliff Walk seems as impressive in its way as that of lower Manhattan. But New- R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 587 port, nevertheless, is a place of rare natural charm and historic interest. A pilgrimage through its older streets will give a new inspiration to the tourist who has hitherto quite gener- ally been led to believe that his opportunities ended with the Cliff Walk, The Avenue, and the abodes of the oppres- sively opulent. Old Newport was founded in 1639 by the Antinomians and other religious refugees from the Bay Colony. It was an offshoot of the colony founded a year earlier on the northern part of the island (p 584). In 1640 the two towns, which then had a population of nearly 1000, united to form the "Colony of Rhode Island." In 1647 the colony united with Providence. The Baptist Church, established here in 1640, except for the one in Providence, is the oldest in the United States. Here, too, was opened the first public school in Amer- ica, and possibly the first school accessible to all, supported by the public charge, in the world. Quakers, Moravians, Baptists, Jews, all found at Newport a haven of refuge. From 1739 to 1760 the foundation of Newport's prosperity was laid through the establishment of the "Triangular Trade." The merchants of Newport waxed wealthy, importing molasses from the West Indies, distilling it into rum, which they exchanged in Africa for "niggers," which in turn were exchanged in the Barbadoes for more molasses, and so the vicious circle ran on, to the great profit of Newport mer- chants, until through more molasses, more rum, more "niggers," wealth accumulated and with it came fashion, function, and ceremony. Before the outbreak of the Revolution the foreign trade of Newport was greater than that of New York, and the exalted social status of its wealthy citizens was recognized not only throughout the colonies, but in Jamaica and Antigua. During the Revolution, the English and later the French occupied Newport, as it was an important strategic center. This naturally killed its commerce, which never again revived. The British during their occupation greatly injured the town. Nearly a thousand build- ings were destroyed. Trinity Church was the only important build- ing not used as hospital or barracks, because of the crown on its spire. The long military occupation, and the suppression of the slave trade, reduced Newport and Rhode Island generally to poverty. It was to Newport that Rochambeau sailed with his French army and made his headquarters while he restored the fortifications and redoubts which had been dismantled. Claude Blanchard, commissary-in-chief of the French forces, left some interesting records of his impressions of Americans as seen in Rhode Island: "The Americans are slow and do not decide promptly in matters of business. It is not easy for us to rely upon their promises. They love money and hard money. They do not eat soups and do not serve up ragouts at their dinners but boiled and roast and much vegetables. They drink nothing but cider and Madeira wine with water. The dessert is composed of preserved quinces and pickled sorrel. They do not take coffee imme- diately after dinner but it is served three or four hours after with tea. This coffee is weak and four or five cups are not equal to one of ours, so they take many of them. The tea on the contrary is very strong." It was at this time that the Dumplings and the original Fort Adams were constructed. Brissot de Warville's record of his journey in the U.S., in 1788, draws this melancholy picture of Newport at that time: "Houses falling to ruin; miserable shops; grass growing in the public square in front of the Court of Justice; rags stuffed in the windows or hung upon hideous women and lean, unquiet children." NEWPORT Washington Square, or the Parade, the center of old Newport, contains the statue of Oliver Hazard Perry, the hero of Lake Erie. It stands nearly opposite the old Seixas mansion, Perry's last residence. At the head of the square is the old State House, built in 1743, a Colonial building of dignity and distinction, used as a hospital during the Revolution, and now used as a court house. In the senate chamber hangs Gilbert Stuart's familiar full-length painting of Washington. From its balcony the accession of George III, the Declaration of Independence, and many other occurrences have been pro- claimed. At the foot of the square is the old brick Market, de- signed and built by Peter Harrison in 1762, still stately in spite of defacement. This is on the old model of English market- houses, with open arcades below. Close by, on the corner of Marlborough and Furwell Sts., is the old Nichols House, which about 1739 became famous as the White Horse Tavern, and the old jail where the prisoners grumbled because there were no locks and honor forbade them to escape, a strange example, if it is true, of "honor among thieves." Below the Market is Long Wharf, where Washington and Rochambeau reviewed the French troops, and where the funeral cortege of Admiral de Ternay landed in 1780. In Touro St. is the Jewish Synagogue, the oldest in America, built by Peter Harrison in 1760. Massively plain without, it is "a dream of delight within." It is of historic interest, as the General Assembly met in this building in 1780. The first rabbi was the Rev. Isaac Touro, from whose family the street was named. His sons were wellknown philanthropists who gave large sums for the synagogue, Touro Park, and the Red- wood Library. The Newport Historical Society is next the synagogue and is open daily, except Sundays. At the head of the street is the beautiful Jewish Cemetery, dating from 1677 and containing the remains of many highly honored citizens and' scholars. Touro Stroet runs into Bellevue Ave., the first part of which was formerly called Jew Street. The Redwood Library, on the left, though it cannot claim great size or merit today, was the earliest library of its sort in America, a monument of early culture at Newport, and the influence for Bishop Berkeley's residence. Sir Walter Scott's uncle was its first librarian. For a time it was the second library in importance in America, after that of Har- vard College; today it has 65,000 volumes. It was the out- growth of a philosophical society and owes its immediate origin to Abraham Redwood, a Quaker, who donated his books and five hundred pounds sterling for the purchase of other books. The building was the first work of Peter Harrison, BOSTON TO NEWPORT 589 1748, built by subscription of the townspeople. The portico, shaded by a beautiful fern-leafed beech, was restored by Judah Touro. The building contains many early portraits, includ- 1 Washington Square or the Parade 2 The OldjState House 3 The Old Market 4 St. John's Church 5 The Nichols House 6 Long Wharf 7 The Perry Mansion 8 The Jewish Synagogue 9 Redwood Library 10 Old Stone Mill it Perry Statue 12 Channing Memorial Church 13 Trinity Church 14 The Casino 15 J- J- Van Alen 1 6 Robert Goelet 17 Ochre Court Ogden Goelet 1 8 Wolfe-Lorillard- Twombly ig The Breakers 20 Mrs. Herman Oelrichs 21 Vincent Astor 22 Marble Palace 23 W. W. Astor 24 Mrs. Joseph Widener 25 Charles W. Lippitt 26 Clews House 27 Stuyvesant Fish 28 U.S. Life Saving Sta. 29 J. P. Morgan 30 Theodore M. Davis 31 Agassiz Estate 32 E. D. Morgan 500 NEWPORT ing five by Gilbert Stuart, and a collection of portraits of eigh- teenth-century Indian chieftains. The handsome interior has recently been restored. The land on which the library stands was formerly a bowling green where, on a summer evening, our ancestors enjoyed a quiet hour with the jack and the bowls and a quiet pipe quite as much as the modern gymnast delights in a match of smashing tennis or furious polo. In Touro Park beyond on the right is the Old Stone Mill, the subject of endless futile conjectures. Such a footless savant as Professor Rafn, whoever he may have been, said: "There is no mistaking in this instance the style which belongs to the Roman or ante-Gothic architecture which in England is dominant, Saxon and sometimes Norman. ... I am per- suaded that all who are familiar with old northern architecture will connote that this building was erected at a period de- cidedly not later than the twelfth century." Longfellow, with his usual uncritical gullibility, associated this with the Norse chieftain which the skeleton found at Fall River inspired in his imagination: "There for my lady's bower, Built I the lofty tower. Which, to this very hour, Stands looking seaward." Thomas Wentworth Higginson spoke of this Mill as "the only thing on the Atlantic shore which has had time to forget its birthdays." However prosaic, it is probably true that it was built by Governor Benedict Arnold for a windmill and copied from an old stone mill still standing in England. In his will, 1777, he described it as "my stone built wind mill." This Benedict Arnold was the great-great-grandfather of the infamous Benedict of Revolutionary times. In Touro Park also is the statue by J. Q. A. Ward of Com- modore Matthew Perry, brother of the victor of Lake Erie, by whom the ports of Japan were opened to the United States, a triumph more notable than his brother's. His birthplace is on the corner of Second and Walnut Sts. The statue of William Ellery Channing, whose nickname as a schoolboy was 'Peace- maker,' faces the Channing Memorial Church on Pelham St. He was born in the house on the corner of Mary and School Sts., now the Children's Home. Near Channing's birthplace on the corner of Mary and Clark Sts. is the Vernon house, which Rochambeau used as his headquarters, now the Charity Organization building; it is open to visitors. On the corner of Spring and Church Sts. is Trinity Church with the British crown and pennon still on the spire. In style it follows the work of Sir Christopher Wren, simple and stately. The spire R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 591 is a wellknown sailor's landmark. The interior, with the high pulpit and sounding board and the old box pews, preserves the Colonial atmosphere. Parts of the original organ, the gift of Bishop Berkeley, are still preserved. The French admiral de Ternay's gravestone stands in the entrance; many other ancient stones remain in the churchyard. In Thames St. is the house from which Commodore O. H. Perry was married and set out for Lake Erie, where he won the famous battle of 1813 when he was only twenty-seven years of age. On his return he was carried in triumph through the streets to his home and remained here until ordered to com- mand the West Indies squadron. He died on board his ship at Port of Spain in 1819. There are many other fine old houses scattered through these quiet streets, and windows adorned with the names and sen- timents of the heroes of the times. Hardly a corner but offers some picturesque glimpse of the old days when Timothy Bige- low "admired the fine complexion of the females, but noted a particular Rhode Island air and manner in the walk and the deportment." At Fort Adams on the point of land between Newport Harbor and Brentons Cove is the chief military post. The old mortar battery of gray masonry defensively effective half a century ago is a conspicuous feature from the harbor side. The modern defenses, masked in greensward, are less notice- able. On Goat Island, in the harbor, is the torpedo station. Usually swarms of torpedo boats may be seen here poking their noses into its shore. It was fortified in the Revolution, and here in 1723 were buried twenty-six pirates who had been taken by the British ship-of-war "Greyhound" and hanged on Gravelly Point. Popular superstition long peopled the island with their ghosts. The Naval Training School, for sailors, and the War College, where officers of the navy study naval subjects and war prob- lems, are on Coasters Harbor Island, which is connected with the mainland by a causeway. Below at the Training Station is ordinarily moored the old frigate "Constellation." As an important naval base at which the North Atlantic squadron spends part of the summer with due festivity, at the height of the season navy uniforms are seen quite frequently at the balls and dinners of the 'cottagers.' William Brenton, whose name is perpetuated in landmarks about Newport, more than 250 years ago built a great mansion house 150 feet square. Although he was the pioneer leisure resident, the charm of Newport was very early recognized by South Carolinians, who began to come here in the first years 592 NEWPORT of the nineteenth century. They constituted a large part of its society up to the Civil War, so that Newport became a notable resort even before the 'so's. About that time four families from Boston and eight from New York had summer cottages here. The social 'cottage colony' extends south- ward from the Casino to the left of Bellevue Ave. It takes in also a large section east on Rhode Island and Gibbs Ave?., which is, however, more particularly the residential district of the large and increasing winter colony. Many of the cottages further south are also occupied up to Thanksgiving and New Year. There is an increasing tendency to stay through the long fall, which always extends at least to Christmas. The Casino is a long, many-gabled building containing club rooms, a theater, etc. On its courts, in August, used to be decided the Lawn Tennis Championship of America. Its place is now taken by an invitation tournament of almost equal prominence. The Avenue from here on is lined on both sides by the cottages of the wealthy. Among the more not- able, about halfway down, to the left between The Avenue and Cliff Walk, is the Vanderbilt Marble Palace. The Avenue turns sharp to the right, skirting Bailey's Beach, and as Ocean Avenue continues along the shore for ten miles. To the east is Ochre Point, where are many of the finest places. The Cliff Walk extends from Easton's Beach along the wind- ing brow of the cliffs for over three miles to Bailey's Beach. It has been kept open as a public right-of-way in spite of all the pressure that some of the wealthy abutters could bring to close it. Here many wander along the lovely pathway, ignoring the crags and beauties of the sea, choosing rather to gaze upon the costly fabrications of stone and timber and marveling at the wealth of the society that frequents them. Beyond the forty steps, which descend the cliffs at the foot of Narragansett Ave., we enter the estate of Robert Goelet, and beyond Webster St., pass Ochre Court, the French Renais- sance mansion of Mrs. Ogden Goelet, a reproduction of a Henri IV chateau on the Loire. Further on, we pass a stone building, the Wolfe-Lorillard-Twombly cottage. Next is The Breakers, the enormous freestone mansion built by Cornelius Vanderbilt, with a rustic summer house on Ochre Point. From Ochre Point the path bends to the right, and we enter the grounds of Perry Belmont, beyond which is the villa of Mrs. Herman Oelrichs, the red brick villa of Vincent Astor, and the white Marble Palace built by Wm. K. Vanderbilt, now owned by Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont, and another red villa, owned by William Waldorf Astor. Beyond Sheep Point the path descends to a lower level. Opposite the pic- R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 593 turesque stone house of Mrs. Joseph Widener it crosses a small rocky bridge and passes the new palace of Mrs. A. Hamilton Rice. At Land's End overlooking Bailey's Beach is the battle - mented structure built by Ex-governor Charles W. Lippitt. Bailey's Beach, a somewhat protected bay, is zealously guarded for the elect. At the very end of Bailey's Beach is Spouting Rock, a waveworn chasm where the surf is dashed high in air after a southeast gale. Just beyond, at the corner of Ocean Ave. and Jefferson Road, is The Crossways, the resi- dence of Mr. Stuyvesant Fish, with a Colonial portico. From here the ten miles of ocean drive follows the shore with glori- ous views of the sea, its rocks and reefs, and on the right the beautiful moors. Inland lie Almy's and Lily Ponds, and seaward, Gooseberry Island with the very plain house of the Newport Fishing Club. Just east of this at Graves Point, so called from the graves of two shipwrecked seamen, is the late J. Pierpont Morgan's Newport summer home, on the edge of the sea, with a fishing stage for sea bass. The house is as plain as any shanty of a rail- way construction gang, an instance of the diversity of Newport. Mr. Morgan passed much time here. On Price's Neck is the U.S. Life Saving Station. At Brenton's Point is the house of the late Theodore M. Davis, the Egyptologist. The road here turns to the right, running north past the promontory of Castle Hill, almost cut off from the land by a little cove. Here, on the summit, is the modest residence of the late Alexander Agassiz, the celebrated son of a still more celebrated father, both of them great scientists. At the foot of the hill is the laboratory where Mr. Agassiz completed the study and re- searches of his deep-sea investigations. The road curves right into Harrison Ave. Inland on our right are the Polo Grounds, Golf Links, and Club House. On the left are sev- eral estates and Fort Adams. On the opposite side of Bren- ton's Cove is Beacon Rock, the residence of E. D. Morgan. To the right, on the moors, are the Grosvenor and Curtis James places, with some others. On the rocky island to the left is the Lime Rock lighthouse, for more than fifty years in charge of Ida Lewis, 'The Grace Darling of America,' who saved more than twenty-five lives. Continuing along the road, skirting the Bay, Thames St., the chief street of the old town, leads back to the Parade. The arrival of the New York Yacht Club Squadron on its eastern cruise is a great event in the summer life of Newport, a fleet of pleasure craft representing an investment of many millions. One of the greatest displays of pleasure craft the world has seen is then here gathered. A feature of the visit 594 NEWPORT is the night water fete, when the Bay is bright with illuminated yachts and the imagination of thousands is taxed to devise new examples of illuminations and pageantry. East of Newport is Easton's or First Beach, which is the popular resort of the townspeople. Beyond are Easton's Point and the Clambake Club, and further on, Sachuest, or Second, Beach. Just beyond is Purgatory, a vertical fissure 150 feet long, 50 feet deep, and from eight to fifteen feet wide. The road to Whitehall leads along Easton's Beach, past Purgatory, and turns to the left past farmhouses to a farm lane marked by a sign. This is the entrance to Whitehall. The house may be dimly seen from the road, a low, square building with a lean-to and a long pitch roof, fronting on a small garden overgrown with fruit trees. This was the residence of Bishop Berkeley during his sojourn of three years here at Newport. The estate comprised 100 acres about two miles back from the Second Beach. When he left America to return to Ireland he presented his books and his farm to Yale. The College leased the estate, and the present lease still has some 800 years to run. When 'Vanessa' broke with Dean Swift, to whom in her will she had left half her estate, she provided Bishop Berkeley with funds to establish a collection for missionaries in the Bermudas. Berkeley, on his voyage, stopped at Newport, and, fascinated by its beauties, set- tled here to study and write. Already he had advanced his theories on the great illusion as to the existence of matter, and his defense of tar-water as a cure for all bodily ills. Meditating on a rocky ledge, still known as Bishop Berkeley's Rock, overlooking the ocean, he composed "Alciphron," one line of which has been remembered ever since, though the author is all but forgotten, "Westward the course of Empire takes its way," a line so prophetic and so full of prom- ise to the young nation that it could not quickly lapse into oblivion. He returned to labor for thirty years in the Bishopric of Cloyne. Modern Newport is the resort of art-loving people. Not a few of the finest collections in America are here, some, how- ever, only for the summer. Especially noteworthy are the Paliser collection of E. J. Berwind, the Egyptian antiquities and Spanish pictures of Theodore Davis, and the Barye Collec- tion of Bronzes of Mrs. T. K. Gibbs. Newport as a municipality has recently awakened to civic consciousness. In 1908 a new form of government was adopted, consisting of a representative council of 195, an apparently unwieldy body, but an attempt to provide a limited 'town meeting' system, and since copied by Brook- line, Mass. Because of the great wealth of the summer resi- dents 70 per cent of the taxes are paid by non-residents, and to provide some degree of representation for them a new charter has recently been advanced, in which Prof. J. W. Burgess has taken a prominent part, which provides that all taxpayers resi- R. 32. BOSTON TO NEWPORT 595 dent or non-resident assessed $500 or more may vote, including women. Other novel features of this new charter provided is State control of police, and a non-resident city administration if the council so desires. In these changes, public-spirited members of the summer colony have worked hand in hand with the townspeople. Co- incident with this there has been an effort to "clean up New- port," to make the Old Town a spotless town, for the U.S. Government had threatened to remove the Naval Training Station unless conditions were improved. This has been undertaken by an "Army and Navy" committee, popularly known as the 'Vigilance Committee.' With this renaissance of civic life, industries have been invited to the city, and the Common Sense Gum Company has opened a plant here. From Newport a steamer runs through to Wickford on Route 2 (p 178), while a ferry runs to Jamestown, and from the opposite side of Conanicut Island to Saunderstown, and Route 2 (p 177). On Conanicut, especially at Jamestown, are numerous hotels as well as a large number of residences. Socially, although not of the 'Four Hundred,' the inhabitants are affiliated with Newport. R. 33. BOSTON to RUTLAND, VT. 160.0 m. Via FITCHBURG, KEENE, BELLOWS FALLS, and LUDLOW. This route affords a pleasant route from Boston to Peterboro (from Fitchburg), to Dublin (from Fitzwilliam) , and from Bellows Falls to the upper Connecticut valley. R. 33 1. Boston to Bellows Falls. 109.0 m. Via CONCORD, FITCHBURG, WINCHENDON, and KEENE. The route follows Route 15 reversed, with red markers, through FITCHBURG (47.5). From River St., West Fitchburg (49.7), the route turns right on Ashburnham St., ascending a grade. It is clearly marked by yellow bands. 56.0 ASHBURNHAM. Alt 1080 ft. Pop (twp) 2107 (1910), 2059 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1765. Mfg. furniture, cut- lery, and artificial limbs. Ashburnham is situated in a pleasant hill country. Phil- lips' Brook supplies waterpower for its chair factories. Gushing Academy occupies a prominent position in the town. The square modern building was completed in 1915, five months after the fire which destroyed its predecessor. Continuing with the yellow markers, the route enters 64.5 WINCHENDON. Alt 933 ft. Pop (twp) 5678 (1910), 5908 (1915). Worcester Co. Settled 1751. Mfg. wooden ware, toys, chairs, and machinery. Winchendon, the 'Toy Town,' is an attractive old village with wide shady streets, in a fine upland situation. It has become a rendezvous for motorists largely on account of the Toy Town Tavern. Beside the R.R. station a huge hobby horse is emblematic of the toy industry. The manufacture of wooden ware has long been the predominant industry; more wooden buckets are made here than in any other place in the country. There are also machine shops and tanneries. Interesting experiments in forestry are going on at Winch- endon. Over two million trees have been planted by the Murdock Company in the last six or seven years, for the most part imported Scotch pine, and reforestation is now being taken up by several of the other firms. The State has recently acquired several thousand acres of waste lands in this vicinity which it is reforesting with white and Scotch pine. This frontier plantation was first known as Ipswich-Canada, but when incorporated in 1764 was named after Winchendon in England. The wooden ware industry dates from 1827 and doubtless was sug- gested by the splendid growth of pine which once clothed these hills. Shingles were manufactured in such quantities that neighboring com- munities called the place 'Shingleton.' The route continues with the yellow markers to the New Hampshire boundary (68.0), whence the color is orange. (596) R. 33 I- BOSTON TO BELLOWS FALLS 597 73.5 FITZWILLIAM. Alt 1057 ft. Pop (twp) 1148. Cheshire Co. Mfg. granite. Fitzwilliam is a picturesque hill town unmarred by industrial blemish. Just to the west of the town is Pinnacle Hill, and beyond, the ridge of Little Monadnock (1890 ft). Ahead, to the north, is Gap Mountain (1900 ft), and beyond it rises the cone of Monadnock (R. 40). In the vicinity of Fitzwilliam is the Rhododendron Reser- vation of the Appalachian Mountain Club. The great display of blossoms is about the last of June. The Rhododendron cottage here is leased to parties by the Club. From Fitzwilliam the route leads through a pleasant valley, with Monadnock on our right, to the little village of TROY (76.5). A road to the right leads round the base of Monad- nock through a very picturesque country to Dublin (R. 40). The road to Keene, with orange markers, continues to de- scend for the most part, following for some distance the South branch of the Ashuelot river. 82.5 MARLBORO. Alt 800 ft. Pop (twp) 1478. Cheshire Co. Mfg. blankets, toys, and boxes. This is a hill village in the valley of Minnewawa Brook. A few factories utilize the lumber from the neighboring hills. 87.0 KEENE. Alt 500 ft. Pop 10,068. County-seat of Cheshire Co. Settled 1733. Indian name Ashuelot. Mfg. furniture, pottery, flannel, shoes, chairs, boxes, pails, bicycles, dress goods, machinery, sashes, blinds, and shoes. Keene is a live manufacturing town, the metropolis of south- western New Hampshire. The numerous industries have an annual output valued at $3,000,000. On the outskirts are many attractive streets with fine elms and pleasant homes. In Central Square, where the Soldiers and Sailors' Monument stands, this route crosses Route ion (p 336). The original name of Upper Ashuelot was given to this locality in reference to the Ashuelot river, which runs through the town; Lower Ashuelot being the present Swanzey. The actual meaning of this Indian name is "in the very midst," referring to an angular piece of ground at the confluence of the Connecticut and this smaller stream. The settlement, a Massachusetts grant of 1733, suffered so from Indian attacks that it was abandoned from 1746 to 1750, when it was re-established and named in honor of Sir Benjamin Keene, a noted English diplomat. A century ago President Dwight wrote: "Keene has long been the prettiest village in New Hampshire. ... I thought it one of the pleas- antest inland towns I had seen." A half century later Francis Parkman wrote: "a town noted in rural New England for kindly hospitality, culture without pretence, and good breeding without conventionality." Leaving Keene by West St. the route follows the trolley, turning left at the end of the street and then right (90.0). Pass- ing through East Westmoreland (94.5) the road joins Route 10 598 KEENE RUTLAND (P 337) a t Westmoreland (98.5) and bears right, up the Con- necticut valley to Walpole (104.5). Here it turns left, crossing the iron bridge over the Connecticut river and turning right, along the West Bank Section of Route 10 (p 332). 109 .0 BELLOWS FALLS (R. 10, p 333). R. 33 2. Bellows Falls to Rutland. 51.0 m. The route follows the Williams river and Black river valleys and crosses the Green Mountains by way of Chester and Ludlow. The road is mostly good gravel; its highest point is at Summit Station (1511 ft). Leaving Bellows Falls (p 333), by Rockingham St. the route leads northward beside R.R., which it follows to the left three miles outside the town, leading northwest by the Williams river on a gravel highway through the hamlets of Rockingham (6.0), Brockway Mills (9.0), and Bartonsville (10.5). After crossing the town and county line just beyond, the road enters 13.5 CHESTER (R. 43). The route now takes the right fork beyond the hotel, cross- ing the Williams river and passing Butternut Hill, on the left. At the little settlement of Gassetts (18.5), the road crosses R.R. and river, taking the left fork marked "Ludlow," and passing the Cavendish town line. For the next four miles the road gently ascends a remarkably pretty valley and then crosses R.R. once more, entering 23.0 PROCTORSVILLE. Alt 928 ft. Pop (Cavendish twp), 1208. Windsor Co. Settled 1769. Mfg. lumber products and cassimeres. Slightly north of this quiet country village are valuable deposits of serpentine, which are said to resemble the Egyp- tian marble. Two miles to the east, just beyond the village of Cavendish, is the fantastic gorge of the Black river, one of the most interesting examples of erosion in the country, seventy- five feet deep, with many curious pot-holes as well as a cavern. The waterpower is now utilized by a hydro-electric power company. In Proctorsville the route turns to the left, following R.R. and the Black river valley westward. 26.5 LUDLOW. Alt 1064 ft. Pop 1621. Windsor Co. Settled 1784. Mfg. lumber and lumber products, woolen and shoddy goods, and horse goods. Ludlow is a manufacturing village at the foot of the Green Mountains near the headwaters of the Black river. Much of the surrounding hill country is very scantily populated, and there are several good trout streams in the district. R. 33 2. BELLOWS FALLS TO RUTLAND 599 The road bears to the right at the further end of the village and takes the left fork one mile beyond. Note. The right fork leads eighteen miles northward to Route 44. It goes through PLYMOUTH past the Ludlovv ponds, which are well stocked with bass, pickerel, pout, and dace. In the flank of Mt. Tom, near the Black river in Plym- outh, is a chain of limestone caverns 100 feet long. At Plymouth village the road bears right, and at Bridgewater Corners joins Route 44, from White River Junction to Rutland. The highway soon turns westward and climbs through Healdville hamlet in the wildest part of the mountains, cross- ing the Mount Holly town and the Rutland County line at Summit Station (33.0; 1511 ft). To the left is Ludlow Mountain (3372 ft), with Terrible Mountain (2844 ft) and Markham Mountain (2489 ft) further south. To the west are the hills above Otter Creek, the valley in which Rutland lies. The road passes through the mountain village of Mount Holly (35-)> taking the left fork. To the north are Killington Peak (4241 ft) and Mount Pico (3967 ft), over which climbs the pedestrian 'Green Mountain Trail' (p 259). A mile and a half beyond the road turns left, dropping 200 feet, and turning right, beside R.R., at the hamlet of Bowlsville (37.0). Enter- ing the Mill river valley it crosses the Wallingford town line at 38.0 EAST WALLINGFORD. Alt 1234 ft. Pop (Wallingford twp) 1719. Rutland Co. Settled 1770. This district is a favorite feeding ground for woodcock, so that sportsmen are plentiful here in season. Turning right in the village the road continues past Rogers Hill, on the right, and Granite Hill (2007 ft), on the opposite bank. Half a mile past the Shrewsbury town line the road crosses the river in the hamlet of Cuttingsville (41.0), where is the conspicuous granite mausoleum of John P. Bowman, a wealthy resident of New York State. The Crown Point Road (see Charlestown, N.H., p 340) ran beside the tumbling water to Clarendon. The road winds on down the valley, crossing the town line, avoiding the righthand road beyond R.R. crossing, and emerges from the mountains at 45.0 EAST CLARENDON. Alt 845 ft. Pop (Clarendon twp) 857. Rutland Co. Settled 1768. Curving right through the little settlement, the road runs north along the gentle slopes above the meandering Otter Creek and meets Route 5 at 57.0 RUTLAND (p 263). R. 34. BOSTON to THE WHITE MTS. 188.0 m. Via LOWELL, CONCORD, LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE, and the FRANCONIA NOTCH. This Merrimack Valley Route is one of the most important and interesting north and south highways in New England. It is the most traveled thoroughfare to the summer pleasure grounds of the New Hampshire lakes and the White Mountains. The route leads through the suburban cities of Somerville and Medford, the Mystic valley to Winchester, and the great textile city of Lowell. Thence it follows the Merrimack valley through the mill towns of Nashua and Manchester to Concord. It is State Road marked with blue bands to the New Hamp- shire line, and thence with green bands with white border. Note. For an alternative route to Lowell via Arlington, Burlington, and Billerica, see Route 27 (p 508). Leaving Boston by Harvard Bridge, turn right at Central Square, Cambridge, on Prospect St. to Webster Ave., and then left over R.R. bridge and through Union Square, Somerville (4.0). Here bear right on Walnut St., over the hill and across Broadway, turning right and then left to the end of the park on the left. There turning left on Mystic Ave., continue to the car line and follow it into Medford Square. Note. Another route to Winchester may be taken by turn- ing right into Harvard St. from Prospect St., thence to Har- vard Square. Right with car tracks, and straight up Massa- chusetts Ave. Turn right on Chester St. and, meeting car tracks, bear left to Davis Square. Turn right, crossing R.R., to boulevard, leaving Tufts College on right. At pumping station in fork, bear left past Mystic Lakes to Winchester. 7.0 MEDFORD. Pop 23,150 (1910), 30,509 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1829. Mfg. felt, carriages, gold leaf, and leather. The old town is now a mere Boston suburb, and though the business center is not wholly prepossessing there are some fine old estates on the borders of the Fells (p 480). In the old days shipping and rum distilling brought it prosperity. In fact, rum made the name of Medford famous. The old Law- rence distilleries, which up to 1905 used to exhale such a rich odor of rum and molasses, are on a side street near the square. The Royall House, to the left on Main St., when built in 1737 was "the grandest in North America." It is a fine old ex- ample of Colonial architecture well kept up, and may be visited in the afternoon, or at other times by appointment with the curator (fee). The slave quarters are an interesting reminder of old slavery days in an abolition State. Isaac Royall was a (600) R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 6ci West India merchant who came to Boston bringing his family and twenty slaves. One of his daughters married Colonel Henry Vassal of Cambridge. His son, Isaac, who inherited the property, favored the Colonists, but feared the King, and so fled to England. On Ship St. toward East Medford is the so-called Craddock house, built in 1638, and the oldest building extant in New England. The Medford Historical Society has recently shown that the Craddock house was near Medford Square. Matthew Craddock, a wealthy London merchant and ship-owner, invested heavily in the Massachusetts Company, and was elected its first Governor in 1628. He was a member of the Long Parliament in England, representing the City of London. His affairs kept him so busy that though Governor of the Massachusetts Company he never found time to visit the country in which he had so large a stake. But he must have anticipated coming, for he built two other mansions, one at Marblehead, the other at Ipswich. With so many affairs some were bound to run at loose ends. He complained bitterly of his agents in America: " Jno Joliff writes me the manner of Mr. Mayheue's accounts is, that what is not set down is spent; most extremely I am abused. My servants write they drink nothing but water and I have in an account lately sent me Red Wyne, Sack, & Aqua Vita? in one year about 300 gallons, besides other intolerable abuses, 10 dollars for tobacco, etc." Wood, in his "New England Prospect," printed in London in 1639, writes of Medford: "Mystic is seated by the water side very pleas- antly. . . . On the west side of the river, the Governor hath a farm, where he keeps most of his cattle. On the east side is Mr. Craddock's plantation where he hath impaled a part, where he keeps his cattle, till he can store it with deer. Here, likewise, he is at charges of build- ing ships. Last year one was upon the stocks of an hundred tunne that being finished they are to build one of twice her burthen!" Tufts College, on the boundary line of Somerville and Med- ford, was founded in 1852, by Hosea Ballou, the great Uni- versalist. Charles Tufts, the farmer whose name it perpet- uates, gave the land on which it stands. The tower of the Goddard Chapel, the most beautiful build- ing, can be seen, even before leaving Somerville, from the northern slopes of Winter Hill. The same is true of the wire- less tower, owned by Tufts graduates and built, upon college land, which, three hundred feet in height, rises on the northern side. West of the Goddard Chapel is Ballou Hall, the oldest building. Next is the Barnum Museum of Natural History, the gift of P. T. Barnum, containing the stuffed skin of Jumbo, the elephant made famous by Barnum and the Tufts College Glee Club. The old Medford Reservoir is just beyond, one of the fine viewpoints of the region, and appreciated as a ramble by collegians and citizens alike. Standing out promi- nently at the east of the group of buildings is the Eaton Memorial Library, erected by Mrs. Andrew Carnegie in memory of her pastor. 602 MEDFORD TEWKSBURY On the old road to Winchester is the old Brooks farm; the handsome Colonial mansion has recently been torn down and the farm cut up into house lots. A century ago the Brooks were notable. Dr. John was a Governor of the State from 1816 to 1823 and Peter was New England's first millionaire. From Medford Square we turn left along the Metropolitan Park Boulevard, which runs beside the Mystic river and the beautiful Mystic Lakes. Across the lake on the hilltop where the Myopia Club was born stand out against the sky line the residences of the Honorables Samuel W. McCall, Governor of the Common- wealth, Samuel Elder, and Samuel Petts, the liquor dealer, which resulted in this region being known as Sam's Hill. Further to the north at the corner of Church and Cambridge Sts. is the mansion of Oren Cheney Sanborn of the Chase & Sanborn Coffee firm. Behind it rise Andrews Hill and Pisgah Mountain and further back Zion Hill (400 ft). Beyond the Wedgemere Station is the estate of the late Edwin Ginn, founder of the publishing house of Ginn & Co., and of the million-dollar peace foundation that bears his name. The boulevard follows the Aberjona river to the center of 10.0 WINCHESTER. Alt 22 ft. Pop 9309 (1910), 10,005 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1640. Mfg. leather, soda fountains, and felt. Winchester occupies perhaps the most beautiful natural situation of any of Boston's suburbs. From the Aberjona valley the streets and houses rise eastward to the rocky levels of the Middlesex Fells. Through the center of the town along the course of the river is a parkway and playground where formerly stood unsightly tanneries. The clock tower on the town hall gives the various names with dates which the town has successively borne. The route crosses R.R. through the Square and follows the trolley to the right to 123 WOBURN. Alt 98 ft. Pop 15,308 (1910), 16,410 (1915). Mid- dlesex Co. Settled 1641. Mfg. leather, chemicals, leather- working machinery, shoes, glue, and cotton goods. Woburn, a town of historic interest, has because of the nature of its modern industries become a district of unpleasant factories and has drawn a large foreign population. Its chemi- cal plants and leather tanneries have profited by the boom in war materials, but at the same time have been endangered by incendiary plots and explosions. Many of the workmen are Greeks and Turks; at the outbreak of the war they came to blows and the Turks were driven out. Unsavory civic condi- tions in Woburn have resulted in high tax rates and dubious municipal politics. R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 603 On Elm St. not far from the corner of Main, standing on a rise of ground a little back from the road is a large two-story, gambrel-roofed house. Here under his grandfather's roof was born in 1753 Benjamin Thompson, later Count Rumford. At thirteen he was apprenticed to a local mechanic and learned to make surgical instruments, very good ones, too, it is said. Later, while apprenticed to a Salem shop-keeper, he invented a machine and walked twenty miles to show it to his old friend, Loammi Baldwin, at Woburn. Driven out of America by his unappreciative and intol- erant countrymen he achieved fame and fortune in Europe and became one of the world's great scientists, the confidant and lieutenant-general of the King of Bavaria, and a benefactor of humanity. In Munich a bronze statue and a broad street commemorate him. A duplicate of the German statue stands on the grounds of the Woburn Public Library, but his chief memorials are established by himself, the Rumford professorship at Harvard, and his great collection of scientific appara- tus also bequeathed to that college. See Concord, N.H. (p 609). On the road between the city and North Woburn is the home of Loammi Baldwin, which may be easily distinguished by the large house with pillars on each of its corners. Here he intro- duced the apple which bears his name. His son Loammi, 'Father of Civil Engineering in America,' was the engineer of the great government docks at Charlestown and Newport. The town was settled as Charlestown- Village. One of its founders, Thomas Graves, was made a rear-admiral by Oliver Cromwell and in 1643 commanded the "Tryal," the first ship built in Boston. Edward Johnson, another founder, published one of the earliest historical ac- counts of the Massachusetts Bay Colony under the title "The Wonder- Working Providence of Zion's Savior." The tanning industry was established by Abijah Thompson, who was a prime mover of Woburn welfare projects in the antebellum days. The burying ground on Park St. dates from 1642 and is the burial place of ancestors of Presi- dents Pierce, Garfield, Cleveland, and Harrison. From Woburn the route runs through North Woburn, where it meets the State Road with blue markers, which comes in from the left on the new boulevard (p 510), From this point the route follows the blue markers through Lowell to the New Hampshire line. Beyond North Woburn the road passes Sil- ver Lake (18.5) and crosses the Shawsheen river into 22.5 TEWKSBURY. Alt 115 ft. Pop (twp) 3750 (1910), 5265 (1915). Middlesex Co. Settled 1655. Indian name Wame- sit. Mfg. chemicals. The State Infirmary, an institution of many years' standing, housing from 2000 to 3000 inmates and employing an immense tract of land, is the chief feature of this town. On the wooded hill north of the village is the handsome residence of General Adelbert Ames, son-in-law of Gen. B. F. Butler, the hero of Fort Fisher in the Civil War. Sections of the old Middlesex Canal are still to be seen which con- nected the Merrimack at Lowell with the Charles river at Charlestown. It was built by Boston capital under the supervision of Colonel Loammi Baldwin and opened in 1803. 604 TEWKSBURY LOWELL D wight, in his "Travels," says: "On this part of our road is crossed the Middlesex canal, the most considerable work of the kind in the United States. Its length is near thirty miles, from Charles River to the Merrimack. . . . The design of forming this canal was to introduce from the countries on the Merrimack and its headwaters, into Boston, the great quantities of timber, and the artificial produce which they furnish. The canal was completed in 1801, and has ever since been in operation. It is doubted whether the proprietors will very soon obtain the interest of their money: although every friend of the com- munity must earnestly wish that they may be liberally rewarded for their enterprise and public spirit." On the hill to the east of Lowell is the beautiful park known as Rogers Fort Hill Park, which was the scene of early Indian sorties against the settlers and was presented to the city by Miss Elizabeth Rogers, founder of Rogers Hall, a school for girls, which faces the park (p 800). The route follows the blue markers to the left, over the Concord river and into the center of 27.5 LOWELL. Alt 100 ft. Pop 106,294 (1910), 107,978 (1915); 25,000 French Canadians, 10,000 Greeks, and 5,000 Poles. One of the shire towns of Middlesex Co. Inc. 1826. Mfg. cotton goods, foundry and machine shop products, carpets, cartridges, proprietary medicines, and shoes. Value of Products (1913), $59,322,000; Payroll, $14,553,000. This city, once called the 'Manchester of America' and the 'Spindle City,' is one of the great manufacturing cities of the world. It is located at the junction of the Merrimack and Concord rivers and has been developed in connection with the magnificent waterpower of the Pawtucket Falls of the Merri- mack. Today there are six and a half miles of distributing canals, which carry 30,000 developed horsepower to the mills. More cotton goods are produced than in any other city on the continent, 30,000 people are employed, and a $40,000,000 investment is carried in this one industry. Enough cloth is produced annually to go seven times around the world. The woolen and worsted industry represents an investment of over $5,000,000; foundry and machine shop products, $4,000,000; boots and shoes, $1,000,000; proprietary medicines, $1,000,000; and other industries, $16,000,000. The business center of the city is on the riverbank and the residential section on the hills about the city. On the south- erly side in Andover St. are the residence and spacious grounds of the late General Benjamin F. Butler. In Monument Square, at the easterly end of Worthen St., a monument marks the graves of the first men killed in the Civil War at the Balti- more Riot, April, 1861. The house in "which James McNeil Whistler was born, 243 Worthen St., is now preserved by the Lowell Art Society as a Whistler memorial. Whistler never lived here except as an R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 605 infant, and one who has read his "Gentle Art of Making Ene- mies" can well imagine with what satiric comment he would greet this frank attempt of Lowell to claim his fame. The nucleus of a permanent collection has been acquired. David Neal and W. L. Metcalf are also artists of Lowell birth, and W. P. Phelps, now painting in the shadow of Mt. Monadnock, had a studio here for many years. The site of Lowell was until 1702 a remote and uninhabited portion of the insignificant town of Chelmsford. In that year a company was formed to construct a canal around the Pawtucket Falls at this point. In 1822 a company of prominent Bostonians including Lowells and Jacksons organized a Merrimack Manufacturing Company and erected a factory here. The town was named in 1826 in honor of Francis Cabot Lowell, whose success in developing the power loom and other cotton machinery had made profitable the establishment of the mills. M. Chevalier, a French economic authority, visited here in 1843 and wrote: "Unlike the cities of Europe, it is neither a pious founda- tion, a refuge of the persecuted, nor a military post. It is a specula- tion of the merchants of Boston. The same spirit of enterprise which last year suggested to them to send a cargo of ice to Calcutta that Lord William Bentinck and the Nabobs of the India Company might drink their wine cool has led them to build a city, wholly at their ex- pense, for the purpose of manufacturing printed calicoes." From 1840 to 1845 the "Lowell Offering," a monthly publication, was issued by the mill operatives, who at that time were New England girls. Harriet Hanson and Lucy Larcom were the most prominent contributors. The latter worked in the Lawrence mill and dwelt in one of the operatives' houses of that plant, which still stands. Speak- ing of this paper in his "American Notes," Dickens said, "They have got up among themselves a periodical called the 'Lowell Offering,' a repository of original articles, written exclusively by females actively employed in the mills." Numerous oldtime houses can be picked out here and there in the city; the two oldest on the old coach road, one on each side of the river, date back to 1686 or thereabouts. The inev- itable inn in which Washington and Lafayette stopped is here tucked away in Middlesex Village to the north of the city. The route leaves Lowell by following Middlesex St. west- ward past the R.R. station and across the tracks, forking left with the trolley and then turning left into Nichols St. Thence right, into Westford St., and a mile further on, left into Prince- ton St., at the end of which bear right, into the State Road, and follow the blue markers into NORTH CHELMSFORD (31.5). Many Lowell business people live here, and there are numer- ous farms which supply dairy products to the city. The route bears right with the trolley along the Merrimack river. The homestead of the Tyngs is on the left of the highway a mile or so before reaching Tyngsboro. This old house was the last refuge of Wannalancet, the Indian chief whose friend- liness kept safe the little band of pioneers during the Indian wars, but even his power was insufficient to keep the settlers 606 LOWELL MANCHESTER from the necessity of a haven in Boston during King Philip's War. Colonel Tyng remained, however, in this house; it was the Colonial outpost, and the only house of any size between Medford and Montreal at that time. 35.0 TYNGSBORO. Alt 112 ft. Pop (twp) 829 (1910), 967 (1915). Middlesex Co. Inc. 1789. Mfg. lumber products. The first white settler here, one Cromwell, made a good thing of trading with the Indians until they discovered that in buying furs from them by weight he cheated them by surreptitiously using his foot. In righteous indignation at such dishonesty they burned his house and drove him away. The place bears the name of the Tyng family be- cause a Mrs. Sarah Winslow (born Tyng) "agreed to fund a sum of money which should afford the annual income of 80 pounds lawful money, to be devoted equally to support a Congregational minister and a grammar school." The only bridge over the Merrimack between Lowell and Nashua is at Tyngsboro. Not far above the village we pass the Massachusetts-New Hampshire boundary line; from here on the markers on the poles are green instead of blue. 41.5 NASHUA. Alt 125 ft. Pop (twp) 26,005. Hillsboro Co. Settled 1665. Indian name, "land between." Mfg. cotton goods, cards, glazed paper, steam engines, lumber products, refrigerators and ice-cream freezers, brass and aluminum castings, machinery, spring beds. U.S. fish hatchery. This is an important manufacturing city, at the confluence of the Nashua river with the Merrimack. The civic pride of the people has resulted in an attractive main square with some handsome buildings and fine lawns and the general absence of the usual 'mill town' appearance, although there is a considerable foreign population. In addition to several cotton mills, Nashua is the site of the White Mountain Freezer Company, whose product is nationally known, and of the Maine Manufacturing Company, makers of the White Mountain refrigerators. There are some beautiful residences and even the homes of the mill hands are neat and attractive. During the winter of 1915-16 a six months' strike tied up the mills and resulted in violence and death. Special police and four com- panies of militia were on guard for months. Route 40, with brown markers, to Keene and the Connecti- cut valley forks to the left here. Like many towns of the State, fishing was the principal industry until the close of the eighteenth century. In 1822 a manufacturing company was organized to capitalize the magnificent waterpowers of the Nashua river and Salmon Brook, and in 1825 the first cotton mill was erected. In 1673 the settlement was incorporated by Mas- sachusetts as Dunstable, but after the settlement of the boundary dis- pute in 1741 it fell to New Hampshire. Leaving the Soldiers' Monument on the left, the route fol- lows the green markers along the west bank of the river through R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 607 the little village of Merrimack (51.0). At the end of Second St., West Manchester (58.5), turn right into Granite St., crossing the river and passing the R.R. station on the right. Bear left into Elm St., to the center of the city. 59.5 MANCHESTER. Alt 173 ft. Pop 70,063; 24,257 foreign- born, 37,530 of foreign parentage. Shire town of Hillsboro Co. Settled 1722. Indian name Amoskeag. Mfg. cotton goods, worsted, shoes, locomotives, fire engines, paper, linen, soap, leather, edged tools, brushes and brooms, car- riages, bobbins, saws, bricks, and foundry products. The largest cotton mill in the world, driven by the Amoskeag Falls, which have a drop of fifty-five feet, is located here. This is the largest and most important manufacturing city in the State. The textile mills employ over 19, coo hands, and represent a $25,000,000 invest- ment. It is the fifth city in the United States in the cotton goods industry and the ninth in the boot and shoe, in which latter its annual output ex- ceeds $20,000,000. A feature of the city is the model homes and corporation boarding houses for the mill operatives. The population, of. course, is cosmopolitan, with the French Canadian, Irish, Greek, Polish, and German nationalities pre- dominating in the large foreign element. Among the conspicuous pub- lic buildings are the new Car- penter Memorial Library, erected in memory of Mrs. Carpenter at a cost of nearly THE STARK MONUMENT half a million, and the Man- chester Institute of Arts and Science, built through the generosity of Mrs. L. Melville French. In the park on the bank of the Merrimack is a monument to that impetuous native, General John Stark, who was a hero of Bunker Hill, Bennington, and Trenton. In early life he was captured by the Indians, who adopted him and carried him to Lake Memphremagog. He lived to the age of ninety-four (1728-1822). Nearby was the home of the Hon. Samuel Blodgett, the pioneer of progress in Northern New England, and the builder of Blodgett's canal 608 MANCHESTER CONCORD around the falls, by which the Merrimack was opened to river traffic as far north as Concord at the beginning of the nineteenth century. The falls of Amoskeag were designated by the early comers as "a hideous waterfall." Less than five miles east of the City Hall lies that beautiful sheet of water which in former years was a favorite resort of the red men, Lake Massabesic. It has often been proposed to make Manchester a seaport like its English namesake by driving a ship-canal through the lake and the Durham lowlands to Great Bay. Route 39 enters here from Portsmouth. In 1649 the Apostle Eliot preached to the Indians at their much frequented fishing place, the Amoskeag Falls. In 1722 the settlement was founded at Goffe's Falls, five miles below, from which Manchester was first colonized. In 1735 a three-mile tract was given by Mas- sachusetts to "Tyng's Snow-Shoe Scouts," a group of frontiersmen. These promptly started a feud with the earlier squatters, who were eventually victorious in the courts. From the pioneer homes also went forth the leaders of that redoubtable band of Indian scouts, the Rogers Rangers, who made it possible for the British troops to stem the French and Indian invasion of New England in the days of border warfare. The name of the locality varied until 1910, when it was prophetically named for the great English manufacturing city on the assumption that it would become 'The Manchester of America.' The route leaves Manchester by Webster Ave., following the trolley to the State Road, where the green markers indicate the route through the wayside village of Suncook (70.5). Here a branch of Route 39, from Portsmouth, enters on the right. Continuing straight ahead the road reaches the little town of Pembroke (72.0). 78.0 CONCORD. Alt 244 ft. Pop 21,497. State Capital and County-seat of Merrimack Co. Settled 1725. Mfg. cotton goods, woolens, bathroom furniture, carriages, machinery, belting, harness, pianos, axles, flour, electrical apparatus, silverware, and automobile fire engines; printing. The State House and other public buildings give something of an atmosphere of dignity to this interesting old town. In the State House grounds are statues of distinguished citizens of the State, Franklin Pierce, the fourteenth President of the Republic, General John Stark, Daniel Webster, and John P. Hale. The latter, Free Soil Party nominee for President in 1852, had been counsel in the famous case of Anthony Burns, the fugitive slave arrested in Boston and returned to his master. Beside the Capitol on the rather unusual municipal square are the Post Office, the City Hall, the State Library, and the building of the New Hampshire Historical Society, this latter designed by Guy Lowell and presented by Mr. Edward Tuck. On the State St. side of the Capitol is the statue by French of Commodore George H. Perkins, "the bravest man that ever trod the deck of a ship," according to Admiral Farragut. R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 609 The prosaic-looking Eagle Hotel is really a place of both historic and literary interest. Readers of Winston Churchill's "Coniston" and "Mr. Crewe's Career" know to how great an extent the "Pelican Hotel" was the actual capitol. In the "Throne room," now No. i, Ruel Durkee, the oldtime boss, said to be the " Jethro Bass" of " Coniston," here marshaled his cohorts, instructed his lieutenants, and heard suppliants for favors. Here, too, in the same room Mr. Churchill, when a candidate for Governor, on the eve of his convention held a reception. Mr. H. Thaw also, during his considerable sojourn of 1914-15, kept the hotel in the front page headlines. The old home of President Pierce is at 52 So. Main St., where he died in 1869. A stone on the grounds marks the site of an old garrison house built as a defense against the Indians. The beautiful estate of the late Mary Baker Eddy, founder of Chris- tian Science, is on Pleasant St., and opposite is a monument on the site of an Indian massacre which took place in 1746. Half a mile beyond is St. Paul's, an Episcopal preparatory school which draws boys from all parts of the country. Among Concord's interesting old houses is the Stone resi- dence on South St., formerly the Kent house, famous for its hospitality. There Lafayette was a guest, also Daniel Webster, Ralph Waldo Emerson, and many other distinguished men, and it was the scene of Mr. Emerson's marriage. At the end of North Main St. stands the Walker homestead. Built in haste by Timothy Walker, the first minister of the town, in 1730, it served not only as a parsonage, but also as a garrison. The property is still in the possession of the Walker family. Among the famous residents of Concord are or have been George A. Pillsbury, ex-mayor, who moved to Minneapolis and became mayor of that city, best known as the 'flour king'; Wm. E. Chandler, former U.S. Senator and Secretary of the Navy in President Arthur's Cabinet; the Hon. George H. Moses, Minister to Greece, and the present Senators Jacob H. Gallinger and Henry F. Hollis. The late F. W. Rollins was born at Concord. As Governor of the State he organized Old Home Week, an idea which brought thousands of visitors and tens of thousands of dollars to New Hampshire. Opposite the station is the Rumford Press, nationally known as printers of scientific and collegiate publications. It was here that Count Rumford (p 603) met the widow of Colonel Benjamin Rolfe, who, although ten years his senior, shortly afterward became his wife. This was the real start of his career, for the good lady took him to Boston, bought him many fine clothes, and intro- duced him to the influential people of the towp. These were the days when the Colonies were beginning to feel restless and dissatisfied with the mother country, and the man who was not openly enthusiastic 6io CONCORD FRANKLIN about their cause was looked upon with suspicion. Rumford soon found himself in this class, and was arrested but released again as nothing was proved against him. The shadow did not leave him, however, and he finally petitioned the General Court to hear the charge against him, but that august body ignored him. After a few listless efforts to clear his name he disappeared and was not heard from again until he was with the enemy in Boston. He was the official bearer of the news from General Howe to Lord Germaine concerning the evacuation of Boston. His scientific attainments gained him wide repute in Europe and in America. Concord, formerly Rumford, suffered greatly during the French and Indian War, and was the scene of a brutal massacre in 1746. For a long time Rumford was the most flourishing place between the Massachusetts line and Canada. An involved lawsuit known as the Bow controversy vexed the inhabitants for many years and was decided by King George III and the Privy Council in 1762 in favor of Rumford. The name Concord was adopted in 1765. Louis Downing, a carriage builder, came to Concord in 1815. Twelve years later he brought forth the Concord coach, long the standard stage coach of the country. The body was carried on great leather straps, called thorough-braces, and the top was capable of carrying a number of passengers. There was also a boot where mails and baggage were carried. It was this type of coach that in '49 carried men and gold across the Western plains and mountains to and from Cali- fornia the famous Wells-Fargo coach. Note. Route 12 (p 380) from Worcester, Fitchburg, and Peterboro, enters Concord on Warren St. Claremont and Lake Sunapee are reached by following this route to Hopkin- ton and then forking right, through Contoocook (10.0), Warner (17.8), Bradford (27.0), and Newbury (33.0). At the fork (40.0) the route turns right, to Sunapee (43.5), joining Route 43. Starting in front of the Capitol, Main and North Sts., follow the car tracks left on Fiske St., and pass through West Concord (80.0). The route follows the green markers through Pena- cook (84.0), a part of Concord. The statue here was erected to Hannah Dustin, who, with a small boy and another woman, tomahawked ten of her Indian captors and escaped. For this feat the General Court awarded her fifty pounds. Cotton Mather vividly describes the episode: "In March 1697, the savages made a descent upon the outskirts of Haverhill. In this broil one Hannah Dustin having lain in about a week ... a body of Indians drew near unto the house where she lay, with designs to carry out their bloody devastations. E'er she could get up, the fierce Indians were got so near, that utterly despairing to do her any service, her husband ran out after his children . . . leaving the rest under the care of divine Providence. . . . Those furious tawnies coming into the house, bid poor Dustin to rise immediately. Full of astonishment she did so. ... Dustin and her nurse notwithstanding her present condition travelled . . . one hundred and fifty miles within a few days ensuing, without any sensible damage in their health. . . . But on April 30, while they were yet, it may be, an hundred and fifty miles from the Indian town, a little before break of day, when the whole crew was in a dead sleep, (Reader, see if it prove not so), one of these women took up a resolution to imitate the action of Jael upon Sisera; and being R. 34 BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 6ll where she had not her own life secured unto her, she thought she was not forbidden by any law to take away the life of the murderers by whom her child had been butchered. She hardened the nurse and the youth to assist her in this enterprise; and all furnishing themselves with hatchets for this purpose, they struck such home-blows upon the heads of their oppressors, that ere they could any of them struggle into effectual resistance, at the feet of these poor prisoners they bowed, they fell, they lay down; at their feet they bowed, they fell where they bowed, there they fell down dead." 87.0 BOSCAWEN. Alt 268 ft. Pop (twp) 1240. Merrimack Co. Mfg. woolens, axles, twine, saws, and flour; grain. On the right a stone marks the site of an old log fort which was 100 feet square. A little further on, the site of General John A. Dix's birthplace is marked by a tablet. Born in 1798 at the age of fourteen he fought in the War of 1812 and at sixteen was a lieutenant. Later he became a lawyer, served as postmaster of New York, and was Secretary of the Treasury in President Buchanan's Cabinet. He almost upset President Bu- chanan's policy of 'watchful waiting' by sending the famous message to New Orleans, "If any one attempts to haul down the American flag, shoot him on the spot." He was the first president of the Union Pacific R.R., Minister to France, and Governor of New York. His son was the late Rev. Morgan Dix of Trinity Church, New York. Another stone near here marks the location of Daniel Web- ster's first law office, of which he said: "I opened a law office in a red store, with stairs upon the outside, for which I paid a rent of about $15.00 a year. I lived at home and walked to and from the office at morning and night. My fees the first year were not sufficient to pay the rent." At Webster Place Station, just before entering Franklin, is a State school and home for orphans. One of the houses of the home is known as Elm Farm, which was the home of the great Daniel until his removal to Portsmouth. Following the green markers, the route continues parallel to the Merrimack, passing under R.R. bridge into 96.0 FRANKLIN. Alt 354 ft. Pop (twp) 6132. Merrimack Co. Mfg. flannel, pulp, paper, hosiery, knitting machines, needles, hack and band saws, foundry products, sashes and blinds. This is one of the many towns in the United States named for Benjamin Franklin. It lies at the junction of the Pem- igewasset and Winnepesaukee rivers, which here form the Merrimack. Daniel Webster was born on a farm now in this township, but then in Salisbury, which Daniel afterward said was "nearer the North Star than any of the other New England settlements." His father was a prominent citizen and possessed much of the talent which his son afterward inherited. The farm was often visited by friendly Indians of whom Webster said, "My mother was constantly visited by Indians who had never before gone to a white man's house except to kill its inhabitants." Route 48 forks left here. 6l2 FRANKLIN LACONT A In a speech delivered before a great assembly at Saratoga in 1840 Webster said of his birthplace: "It did not happen to me to be born in a log cabin; but my elder brothers and sisters were born in a log cabin, raised amid the snowdrifts of New Hampshire, at a period so early that, when the smoke first rose from its rude chimney, and curled over the frozen hills, there was no similar evidence of a white man's habitation between it and the settlements on the rivers of Canada. ... I make to it an annual visit. I carry my children to it to teach them the hardships endured by the generations which have gone before them." Note. Lake Sunapee and Claremont are reached bv forking left under R.R. from Main St. and passing through East An- dover (6.0), Andover (10.5), and Cilleyville (13.0). Here the road joins Route 43. The old covered bridge which we now cross, built in 1802, was originally a toll bridge. The route follows the green markers up a hill at the top of which is a tablet calling attention to a stone mortar, employed by the early settlers and the Abenaki Indians for grinding corn. This mortar, which is worth seeing, is in a boulder, or ledge, back of the tablet. 100.0 TILTON. Alt 453 ft. Pop (twp) 1866. Belknap Co. Settled 1768. Mfg. hosiery, ladies' wrappers, endless belts, optical goods, and woolens. The large number of monuments of Indians and various classical reproductions is the first thing that strikes the atten- tion of the tourist. Tilton Seminary is on a hill just above the town at the left. Tilton Memorial Arch, a CODV of the Arch of Titus in Rome, was erected on the hill as a tribute to the Tilton family by Hon. Charles E. Tilton in 1883. As we continue along the State Road, with the green mark- ers, the Belknap Mountains loom in front a little to the right. The route crosses a narrow part of Winnisquam, one of the chain of lakes known as Winnepesaukee River. Beyond the lake are Red Hill and the mountains of the Sandwich range. Over Mt. Israel on the left of Red Hill are Sandwich Dome and Tri-Pyramid, with its side scarred bv a double slide. Over Red Hill we see Mt. Whiteface and Passaconaway, and further to the right Toad Back, or Paugus, and Chocorua. 109.5 LACONIA. Alt 507 ft. Pop 10,183. County-seat of Bel- knap Co. Mfg. hosiery, knit goods, yarn, knitting machin- ery, needles, boats, gas and gasoline engines, freight, pas- senger, and electric cars. This town has been dubbed 'The Gateway to Vacation Land,' and is a commercial and tourist center. The names Laconia and Franconia were first applied in America to the region granted to Ferdinando Gorges and John Mason. The region was so named because of its similitude to a district in Germany. The Cunard Line steamers which carry these R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 613 names receive them from the New England towns. The car works have had a war-order boom in munitions, and the knit- ting mills are relieved at the disappearance from the market of their worst competitors, German-made goods. The route continues through LAKEPORT (m.o), formerly called Lake Village, and THE WEIRS (115.5), ports of the city, which form with their principal a popular summer center. THE WEIRS is important only in summer, when it is host to over one hundred thousand people. It is the scene of several conventions, and here are the camp grounds of the New Hamp- shire Veterans, where their annual encampment is held; also the grounds of the Winnepesaukee Camp-meeting Association, where meetings of the New Hampshire Methodist Conference are held for a week annually. Endicott Rock, which the road passes on the left, covered by a granite canopy, is preserved in honor of Governor Endicott, whose surveyors marked it in 1652 as the source of the Merrimack river, which was the northern boCind of the Massachusetts Colony. A dam here impounds the water for power. The General Court had ordered: "31 May 1652. For the better discovery of the north line of our patent it is ordered by this Court, that Capt. Symond Willard & Capt. Edward Johnson be appointed commissioners to procure such artists & other assistants as they shall judge meete to goe with them to find out the most northerly part of the Merrimache River, and that they be supplied with all manner of nessessaryes by the Treasurer fitt for this journey & that they shall use their utmost skill an abilitie to take a true observation of the latitude of that place, and that they do it with all convenient speed." They reported: "Our Answer is, that at Aquedohcan, the name of the head of the Merrimac, where it issues out of the Winnananussekit, we observed and by observation found that the latitude of the place was forty three degrees, forty minutes, and twelve seconds, besides those minutes which run into the Lake." The Merrimack takes its name from an Indian term meaning "swift water" or ''sturgeon." The stream is reputed to turn "more spindles than any other river on the face of the globe": its volume ol trade exceeds that of any American city except New York, being far greater than that of New York State's entire canal system, yet its full powers are not yet utilized. The river averages a fall of two and a half feet per mile, mainly occurring at six points, where most of its power is produced. Its flow is constant owing to the reservoir control of the waterpower corporations of Manchester, Lowell, and Lawrence, which combine to make it one of the most carefully managed streams in the United States, according to Professor Swain of Harvard. LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE (504 ft), or as it is sometimes spelled "Winnipiseogee," is the largest lake in the State and is visited yearly by over two hundred thousand people. It is twenty- one miles long and twelve miles wide, and contains 274 islands, which range in size from one of 1000 acres and nine of over ico acres to mere grass-covered rocks. Pleasure boats of every description dot the lake from the little ' put-put ' 614 LACONIA WOLFEBORO launches to large steam yachts. There are several boats with a speed of over twenty-five miles an hour, and races and carnivals are held yearly. The steamer "Mt. Washington" makes the circuit of the lake twice daily and affords an excel- lent opportunity to see the towns of Wolfeboro, Alton, Center Harbor, and Weirs, which border on it. Edward Everett said, "My eye has yet to rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weirs Landing." The name is translated "The Smile of the Great Spirit" and "The Beautiful Water in a High Place." Either translation is appropriate, and by placing the word "on" between the two a fitting description is obtained. Fishing here is excellent, and in winter there is splendid skating and ice-boating. From the shores of the lake many of the peaks of the White Moun- tains are visible, including Mt. Washington, Passaconaway, Mt. Kearsarge, Sandwich Dome, and Osceola. On the shores and islands are established some of the largest popular camps both for boys and for girls. The route follows the green markers to Meredith (p 616). Detour around Lake Winnepesaukee. Fair roads. 55.0 m. This delightful trip affords a succession of changing per- spectives, delightful views of lake and forest, the magnificent Ossipee range and distant glimpses of the White Mountains. Luxurious camps, summer homes, and some extensive estates lie along the way. Leaving The Weirs R.R. station on the left, bear left at fork, cross bridge over R.R. and lake outlet. To the left is Inter- laken Park and just beyond is Governors Island, which rises 136 feet above the lake. The road now descends a hundred feet, but immediately rises again, disclosing Saunders Bay. At Gilford Station just beyond is a grade crossing, which is one of several, which with the narrow winding road make caution imperative for the next ten miles. The road follows the shore of the lake through Belknap and Lake Shore Park, a small 'attraction' place. The hills rise steeply on the right to an altitude of about 1200 feet. Be- yond the Park are the cottage colonies of Log Cabin, Ames, and Spring Haven, to the right of which the hill reaches the height of 1560 feet. The road now rises abruptly a hundred feet, and then de- scends into West Alton, from whose shore lies Sleepers Island with Rattlesnake Island, one of the largest in the lake, which rises 895 feet above sea level. Rattlesnake was named for the dangerous reptiles which made it untenable for many years. Many interesting legends are connected with it. Further out is Red Head Island the site of Mishe-Mokwa, a R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 615 camp for boys. Across the lake lies Wolfeboro, and far to the east are the massive peaks of the Ossipee range. The road now runs for a mile through the only level piece of ground on this side of the lake. Then it ascends a small incline and makes a sharp turn over R.R., passes Minge Cove and recrosses R.R. on the right. The hills once more rise to altitudes varying from 1115 feet to 1796 feet at Mt. Major. At this point, just across R.R., in a little brick casement, a pipe brings the thirsty traveler ice-cold water which chemical tests have shown is second to none in the State for its purity. The water comes from a little spring 1200 feet above sea level on the side of the mountain. Beyond is Pumpkin Point on the right, and Cedar Mountain (840 ft) on the left. The road now descends sharply, passing the Camp-meeting Grounds of the Seventh Day Adventists on the left. 17.5 ALTON BAY. Pop (Alton twp) 1348. Belknap Co. Mfg. lumber products. Steamer twice daily in season. This little settlement is a busy place in summer when the trains of the Boston & Maine pour thousands of excursionists from Boston and intermediate points into it, and the camp- meeting is in session. It is at the head of Alton Bay, eighteen miles across the lake from Center Harbor. Alton Bay was formerly called "Merry-meeting Bay" since it was a favorite Indian rendezvous. In the early days the Indian raiding parties passed through this bay, and in 1722 the Province built a mili- tary road here and began erecting fortifications. The expense was too great, and the idea was abandoned, but in 1746-47 Atkinson's regiment, which did outpost duty during the French War, erected a fort and spent the winter here. Our road now curves to the left along the shore to 27.0 WOLFEBORO. Alt 508 ft. Pop (twp) 2224. Carroll Co. Settled 1770. Mfg. lumber products. This busy little town at the eastern end of the lake, named for General Wolfe, is one of the favorite summer spots on the lake as well as one of the oldest. Brewster Academy is located here. Nearby is Wolfeboro Camp for boys, conducted by mas- ters of the Hill School, also Camp Tecumseh, an athletic camp for boys. The scenery from nearly every part of the village is magnificent, suggestive of the Bras d'Or scenery in Cape Breton. Not far from here is Lake Wentworth, on whose shores once stood the summer residence of Governor John Wentworth. On Wolfeboro Neck there is a summer camp for boys. Our road now leads upgrade across a narrow strip of land with Winter Harbor on the left, where there is another boys' camp, and Mirror Lake on the right. Lying to the right is TUFTONBORO, a quiet township on the shores of the lake, unaffected in any way by the change of seasons. It was 616 WOLFEBORO PLYMOUTH settled after the Revolution, but long before this the Indians had used its site, and arrow heads, tomahawks, stone axes, and implements are often found here. To the left are Cow, Little Bear, and Long Islands. MELVILLE VILLAGE (37.0), a part of Tuftonboro, is one of the quietest and loveliest retreats of this region. It nestles peacefully at the foot of the Ossipee Mountains on Tuftonboro Bay. It is one of the newer lake resorts and from a modest and retiring hamlet has expanded to its present position in a few years. Across the bay and intervening islands of the lake rise the Belknap and Alton Mountains. From higher parts of the village are seen many of the wellknown peaks of the White Mountains and the Sandwich range. The Plant estate on Ossipee Mountains is close by (R. 42). Beyond here the road rises to an altitude of 212 feet above the lake, unfolding beyond Moultonboro Neck, the old home of the Ossipee Indians, a magnificent panorama of the lake. To the right Bald Mountain raises its head, and in the back- ground is Mt. Shaw (2975 ft). Presently we join Route 42 n on the State Road, with red markers, and turn to the left to 50.0 CENTER HARBOR. Alt 567 ft. Pop (twp) 420. Belknap Co. Settled 1757. This popular summer village is appreciably higher than the level of the lake, and from nearly any point in the town there is a magnificent view of the mountains and Lake Asquam, more popularly known as 'Squam.' Nearby is Pinelands, a fash- ionable girls' camp. The road, with red markers, now leads us back to the main State Road near Meredith (55.0). The Merrimack valley road, with green markers, ascends a sharp hill from the top of which Red Hill is seen in the foreground and over it White- face and Passaconaway. A little to the right is Chocorua. On the left at the foot of the hill is Lake Waukewan. 120.0 MEREDITH. Alt 548 ft. Pop (twp) 1713. Belknap Co. Inc. 1768. Mfg. coffins, linen, harnesses, boats, sieves, wheelbarrows, and chair stock. Meredith is both a summer town and a manufacturing center. Several men of fortune have homes here, including Reinhardt Bartels, David M. Little, former mayor of Salem and collector of the port; William J. Follett, the Boston wool merchant; and Joseph Greer, wool merchant of Philadelphia. One of the few linen mills in the country, recently enlarged on ac- count of war conditions, is situated here. Wheelbarrows and caskets are characteristic manufactures. The route now follows the shore of Asquam Lake, usually called 'Squam.' This is one of the largest as well as most R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 617 picturesque in the State. It has 125 miles of shore and con- tains twenty-six islands. Here were established the first summer camps for boys. Camp Algonquin has been conducted by Edwin DeMeritte for thirty years. On the east shore is the Harvard Engineering Camp. White Oak Pond is on the left. 120.8 HOLDERNESS. Pop (twp) 682. Grafton Co. Settled 1751. Mfg. lumber. This is an ancient Episcopal town which was granted to John Shepard and others in 1751. It was later regranted to Major Wentworth in 1761. In 1816 the name was changed to Holderness. Here is the diocesan school of New Hampshire for boys. The road follows the green-banded poles along the shores of Little Squam Lake, an ever-changing scene. 132 .0 ASHLAND. Alt 555 ft. Pop (twp) 1412. Inc. 1868. This is a small manufacturing town near the confluence of the Squam and Pemigewasset rivers. One of the largest woolen hosiery factories in the country is located here. The Asquam Lake steamers reach the town by the Squam river. Colonel Thomas P. Cheney, long the 'Warwick' of New Hampshire, the leader of the Republicans, makes his home here. Sherman Whipple of Boston was formerly an Ashland resident. 138.0 PLYMOUTH. Alt 483 ft. Pop (twp) 2200. County-seat of Grafton Co. Settled 1663. Mfg. gloves, pegs and bobbins, sporting goods, pulp, and lumber. This is a busy center of trade, and is especially noted for the manufacture of fine buckskin gloves. In Langdon Park the State Normal School holds its festivities. On May 17, 1864, Nathaniel Hawthorne with his friend Franklin Pierce came here for their annual visit. The following morning the Ex- president entered his friend's chamber and discovered that he had died quietly in the night. William Dean Howells was also a regular visitor for many years. The summit of Mt. Prospect, northeast of the town, is an excellent place of vantage for a comprehensive view of the surrounding country. In the north are the peaks of the White Mountains, the most prominent of which is Lafayette. In the northeast are Osceola and White Eace, and further eastward the Squam range with beautiful Squam Lake below it. In the southeast Winnepesaukee glistens in the sunlight, guarded by Mt. Belknap. On this mountain are several interesting objects, chief of which are the Miser's Cave, the Cold and Boiling Springs, and the Avalanche. From Plymouth the route follows the green markers past Livermore Falls. At the top of the hill on the outskirts of West Campton the great masses of the Franconia Mountains 618 PLYMOUTH THE FLUME HOUSE unfold a magnificent panorama, with their highest peak, Mt. Lafayette, and the valley of Mad River on the right, showing Sandwich Dome, Tri-Pyramid, and Tecumseh at the north. 145.0 WEST CAMPION. Alt 1103 ft. Pop (twp) 845. Grafton Co. Settled 1765. Mfg. lumber. The town was so named as it was a favorite camping place for surveyors. It was first granted in 1761. Passing through THORNTON (149.0) and WEST THORNTON (151.0) the green markers lead to 155.0 WOODSTOCK. Alt 649 ft. Pop (twp) 1083. Grafton Co. Mfg. paper and lumber. From Woodstock the road continues up the valley of the Pemigewasset, the intervales gradually narrowing, and ahead the peaks of the Franconia range and the White Mountains looming larger and larger. About two miles from the village there is a grand prospect of peaks to the north. To the right are the three peaks of Mt. Moosilauke (4800 ft), an isolated peak, the loftiest mountain in New Hampshire east of Mt. Lafayette. The name of the mountain is derived from the Indian "moosi," which means "bald," and "auko," "place." On its summit is located the Tip Top House. It is reached by footpaths from North Woodstock. 159.0 NORTH WOODSTOCK. Alt 809 ft. North Woodstock is a beautifully situated little village in the Pemigewasset valley a few miles below the Franconia Notch, one of the gateways to the White Mountains. To the north are Cannon, or Profile, Mountain, Lincoln, Eagle Cliff. Lafayette, Flume, Haystack, Liberty, Big Coolidge, and Little Coolidge Mountains; on the east, Whaleback, Potash, Han- cock, and Russell Mountains; on the south, Plymouth Moun- tain and a view of twenty-five miles down the Pemigewasset valley; on the west, Mt. Moosilauke, Jim, Blue, and Kinsman. This forms unquestionably some of the finest mountain and valley scenery in New England. A very interesting excursion from North Woodstock is to Lost River, reached by the Wildwood road. The slides and caves and chambers are unequaled in the White Mountains. It is probably the best feature of rock structure in the region; nowhere else in the mountains are there erosion effects of such magnitude and continuity. The Moosilauke Branch passes for several hundred yards over a bed composed of Cyclopean rocks which form huge basins and caves of fantastic shapes, while the water, seeking the lowest level, has here and there disappeared entirely from view. Ladders and candles are useful at certain points, as is a guide, on the first visit. R. 34. BOSTON |TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 619 Beyond North Woodstock the mountains begin to close in as the road approaches the mouth of the defile. To the right are the peaks of the Franconia Range, Mts. Flume, Liberty, Haystack, and Lafayette; on the left, the summits of the Pemigewasset range, Cannon and Kinsman. The road winds up the long ascent to the Flume House. THE FRANCONIA RANGE is the name given to a small group of summits between Twin Mountain on the east and the Pem- igewasset range on the west. Strictly speaking, the Fran- conia Mountains are bounded on the west by the Notch, but the Pemigewasset Mountains which form the western side of the defile are usually included in the group. The name is derived from the town of Franconia to the northwest, in which the chief peaks are situated. Lafayette (5270 ft) is the monarch of the group. This heavily wooded range is less grand and majestic but in some respects more lovely than the great range of the White Mountains. Starr King truly said: "The narrow district thus enclosed contains more objects of interest to the mass of travelers than any other region of equal extent within the compass of the usual White Mountain tour. In the way of rock-sculpture and waterfalls it is a huge museum of curiosities." 164.0 THE FLUME HOUSE. Alt 1450 ft. The Flume House is situated at the south end of the Fran- conia Notch at the base of Mt. Pemigewasset and opposite Mt. Liberty and Mt. Flume. It is a somewhat quieter resort than the Profile House, and a good center for excursions. The great attraction is the FLUME, a walk of about half a mile by a path through the woods, which starts opposite the hotel. It is a deep and narrow fissure in the side of the moun- tain of that name, 600-700 feet long, 10-20 feet wide, with precipices 60-70 feet high, through which dashes a brook. A path is carried along above the brook by wooden galleries and bridges. In the upper part of the defile where the walls are narrowest a huge boulder was formerly suspended, but was carried away by a landslide in 1883. A sign post near the hotel shows the way to the Pool, a rocky basin of the Pemigewasset, 150 feet wide and 40 feet deep, overshadowed by towering cliffs. The 'Basin' of the Pem- igewasset is another point of interest, and there are numerous other excursions for those who make their headquarters here. From the Flume House the route climbs through the FRAN- CONIA NOTCH (1974 ft) to the Profile House. This beautiful defile lies between the Franconia and the Pemigewasset ranges. It is from five to six miles long, and the average width is half a mile. Above on the west rise Mts. Kinsman (4200 ft) and 620 THE FLUME HOUSE FABYANS Cannon (4107 ft), and on the east, Mts. Flume (4340 ft), Liberty (4472 ft), Lincoln (5098 ft), and Lafayette (5270 ft), the loft- iest of the Franconia group. Much of this country is Govern- ment land, now opened to homesteaders. The road for the most part winds through the forests, following the course of the Upper Pemigewasset, here a rushing mountain stream. The beauty of the Notch has been extolled by many travelers during the last century. Harriet Martineau wrote, "I cer- tainly think the Franconia Defile the noblest mountain pass I saw in the United States." About a mile beyond the Flume House, on the left of the road, is the Basin, a deep bowl worn by the action of the waters of the Pemigewasset. Half a mile before reaching the New Profile House (168.0), we pass on the left a lovely little sheet of water known as Profile Lake (1747 ft), or 'The Old Man's Washbowl,' and nearby, a sign post marking the spot which commands the finest view of the famous Profile or 'Old Man of the Mountain.' The Profile is formed by the granite ledges on the upper cliffs of Mt. Cannon, or Profile. The face, which looks toward the southeast, is 80 feet in height and 1200 feet above the lake. It was discovered in 1805 by two men who were working on the Notch road. They were washing their hands in the lake and happened to glance up and see the Profile. "That is Jefferson!" one of them exclaimed, he being President at the time. The 'Old Man' was made celebrated by Hawthorne's "The Great Stone Face." It is best seen in the afternoon light when re- lieved against a bright sky. Profile Lake is a beautiful moun- tain tarn nearly surrounded by forests. A pond above the lake is the source of the Pemigewasset river. The New Profile House (1974 ft) lies on a little plateau about halfway between Profile and Echo Lakes, under the shadow of Mt. Cannon. The hotel with its dependent cottages and out-buildings forms the entire settlement of this region. Owing to the lovely situation, it is one of the most popular of the mountain resorts. The waters of Profile Lake flow through the Pemigewasset into the Merrimack, while the waters of Echo Lake, just beyond the Profile House, flow northward into the Ammonoosuc and the Connecticut. Beyond the Profile House the route follows the shore of Echo Lake, near the base of Artist's Bluff, a famous view- point. The echoes which give the lake its name may best be awakened in the vicinity of the boathouse. Favorite excursions include, in addition to those to Profile and Echo Lakes, the ascents of Mt. Cannon and of Mt. La- fayette, the latter commanding an especially fine view. R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 621 Note. The road to the left at Echo Lake leads to 5.0 FRANCONIA. Alt 990 ft. Pop (twp) 504. Grafton Co. West of the Notch lies the little mountain village of Fran- conia in the midst of picturesque scenery with especially fine views of the Franconia peaks. The village nestles in a deep glen almost under the shadow of Sugar Hill. In the days of our grandfathers, Jacob Abbott's "Franconia Stories" of life in this simple, placid neighborhood were among the most popular children's books, gaining praise and fame even in England. They will fascinate all those who care for annals of country life in earlier days when pioneer ways and means still prevailed in New England. The road forks north to Littleton (p 363), and southwest to 10.0 SUGAR HILL. Alt 1650 ft. To the west beyond the village of Franconia is the popular summer colony of Sugar Hill on a bold, slaty ridge (1650 ft) in the eastern part of the town of Lisbon. The name is derived from a grove of sugar-maples on the summit. The long village street runs on the upper western slope of the ridge, from which there are splendid panoramas of the White and the Green Mountains. There is a golf course in connection with the Sunset Hill House. The panorama from Sugar Hill has been described as "the most complete view in the White Mountains," for it includes both the Presidential and Fran- conia ranges. The road westward connects with Route 10, the New Hampshire State West Side Road (p 363). Continuing to Bretton Woods, to the right are views of Haystack and Twin Mountains and ahead is Cherry Moun- tain. The left fork leads to Bethlehem (p 363). 182.5 TWIN MOUNTAIN. Alt 1450 ft. (In Carroll twp.) Twin Mountain, a popular vacation resort, is well situated on the Ammonoosuc river, in a region of fine mountain vistas. Opposite are Mt. Hale (4102 ft) to the left, and the North Twin (4783 ft), concealing the South Twin (4922 ft). The State Road to the left, with light blue markers, leads to the resorts of Bethlehem and Maplewood (p 364). From Twin Mountain turn right, following red markers along the pleasant valley of the Ammonoosuc with fine views of the Presidential Range ahead. About four miles beyond are the Lower Falls of the Ammonoosuc. 187.0 FABYANS. Alt 155 ft. This large hotel is situated on the site of the Giant's Grave, a drift-mound on the Ammonoosuc, about half a mile west of the Mt. Washington Hotel. From Fabyans a branch 622 FABYANS BRETTON WOODS railway runs to the Base Station of Mt. Washington, the starting point of the railway to the summit of the mountain, which is seven and a half miles distant from Fabyans. 188.0 BRETTON WOODS. In this wide valley are many of the largest mountain hotels, and from here we get the best view of the entire Presidential range. Mt. Washington, the most prominent peak, rears its frosted head 6293 feet above the sea. A path leads from the Mt. Pleasant House to the top of Mt. Stickney (2570 ft). To the right of the Mt. Pleasant House is a memorial chapel and to the right is a fountain to the Andersons of the Portland & Ogdensburg R.R., who did much to make this region accessible. For the Crawford Notch see Route 50; for the northern routes via Twin Mountain to Colebrook, Jefferson, and Gorham see Routes 10 and 51. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS are in the northern part of the east coast chain of mountains, known as the Appalachian system. They occupy an area of 1300 square miles, extending thirty miles, from the Androscoggin river on the north to the Sand- wich range on the south, and forty-five miles, from Maine to the Connecticut river. They rise from a plateau 1500-1600 feet high. Mt. Washington (6293 ft) is the highest peak east of the Rockies and north of the Carolinas. In the narrowest sense the name White Mountains is restricted to the Great, or Presidential, Range, from Mt. Madison to Mt. Webster, a dis- tance of about thirteen miles. The great mass consists of granite overlaid by mica slate. The trend of the ranges is north to south, as with most North American mountains and especially those of New England. These mountains were the happy hunting grounds of the Indians, and objects of great veneration. Mt. Washington was a sort of Indian Mount Olympus or Walhalla, the abode of the Great Spirit. The last great Indian leader, the Sachem Passaconaway, chief of the Merri- mack tribes, was the subject of innumerable legends. He was a con- vert of the Apostle Eliot and finally abdicated in his I2oth year and after his death became a demi-god of these mountains. Verazzano, the Florentine explorer in the service of the king of France, cruised along the American coast in 1524, and, visiting the site of Portsmouth, speaks of "the coast, which we found more pleasant champain and without woods, with high mountains within the land." Darby Field, an Irish "soldier of discovery," was the first white man to visit these mountains. Accompanied by two Indians and in June, 1642, he made the ascent of Mt. Washington. In August of the same year another party visited the mountains. In 1672 the first printed account was given in John Josselyn's "New England's Rar- ities Discovered." Field called the higher peaks the v"Chrystall Hills" on account of gems which he claimed to have seen there. The name "White Mountains" was probably given by sailors off the coast, who saw the snowy peaks in winter. During the Indian wars explo- R. 34. BOSTON TO THE WHITE MOUNTAINS 623 ration practically ceased, and the pioneers did not move in until after the conquest of Canada. Toward the end of the eighteenth century travelers like Dr. Belknap and President Dwight visited the region, and old settlers like the Craw- fords and the Fabyans found summer occupation in guiding them to the peaks. By 1850 the White Mountains had become one of the play- grounds of the nation. In 1862 Anthony Trollope, the English novelist, wrote: "That there was a district in New England containing mountain scenery superior to much that is yearly crowded by tourists in Europe, that this is to be reached with ease by railways and stage-coaches, and that it is dotted with huge hotels, almost as thickly as they lie in Switzerland, I had no idea." The Appalachian Mountain Club, founded in 1876, office, 1050 Tremont Bldg., Boston, has been a great influence in the development of the White Mountains. It has constructed marked trails, and secured legislation for forest preservation and good roads. The club has likewise erected shelters on many of the mountain trails, which are supplied with canned food and conveniences for the free use of the traveler, subject to the rule that he must leave as much as he takes. The club periodical, "Appalachia," contains a good deal of valuable information for pedestrians and mountain lovers. Pedestri- ans should procure the Appalachian "Club Guide," Part I. This district has suffered from deforestation, but much has been done in recent years to remedy this. Under the pro- visions of the Weeks bill of March i, 1911, the Government has acquired lands here to be held as recreation grounds for the people under the conditions that govern the national parks. By the regulation of stream flow and the perpetuation of the lumber industry the Government aims to make this a perma- nent national asset, such as the Black Forest is to Germany, and "to be open to every kind of use and occupancy which does not reduce its value to the community or conflict with the principle of equal rights of all." The White Mountain National Forest now has a total of about 260,000 acres, and eventually will probably have about three times that amount. The initial appropriation of Con- gress, $11,000,000, to extend over a period of five years, expired in 1915, but measures are now on foot to make these appro- priations a permanent policy. The headquarters office is located in Gorham (R. 42). Mt. Washington (6293 ft), the monarch of the White Moun- tains, is the culminating point of this "ridge pole of New Eng- land," the axis of the White Mountain system. A railway has been running to the summit since 1869, one of the first constructed on the cog-wheel principle. The majority of tourists ascend the mountain by it, although pedestrians may prefer one of the attractive paths or the car- 624 BRETTON WOODS riage road from the Glen side (R. 42). The distance from the Base Station to the Summit House is about three miles, with an average gradient of 1300 feet and a maximum gradient of 2000 feet to the mile. Above the forest line and to the left there is a magnificent panorama of Mt. Clay with the Great Gulf and the peaks of Jefferson and Adams. Near the summit on the right is the monument marking the spot where Lizzie Bourne died of exhaustion in 1855. The top of the mountain is occupied by several buildings; the celebrated old Tip Top House, erected in 1853 and chained to the rocks in order to prevent its being blown away, was burned several years ago. A new hotel has been under con- struction during the past few years. The view from the summit is justly renowned. It sweeps a circumference of nearly 1000 miles, including parts of five States and the Province of Quebec, the ranges of the White and the Green Mountains with the distant Adirondacks, and Portland and Casco Bay. Starr King says: "The first effect of standing on the summit of Mt. Washington is a bewildering of the senses at the extent and lawlessness of the spectacle. It is as though we were looking upon a chaos. The land is tossed into a tempest." To the east of and below the cone is a terrace known as the Alpine Garden, a happy hunting ground for botanists. The vegetation here is much the same as that of Greenland at 70 north latitude. On the north and the east the mountain is furrowed by sev- eral huge ravines of which Tuckerman's and Huntington's are the best known. On the east side, starting from the Glen House, is the carriage road constructed 1855-61. This can be reached either via Gorham or else via Glen Station and Jackson (R. 42). This road runs along the edge of the Great Gulf for a good part of the way and affords a succession of splendid vfews. One of the favorite footpaths up the moun- tain is through Pinkham Notch and Tuckerman's Ravine (R. 42), a huge "corrie" on the southeast slope enclosed by towering rocky walls 1000 feet high one of the most impres- sive bits of White Mountain scenery. For other footpaths see the publications of the Appalachian Mountain Club. R. 35. BOSTON to PORTSMOUTH. 58.0m. Via the NEWBURYPORT TURNPIKE and the LAFAYETTE ROAD. This is the most direct route to Newburyport and Ports- mouth. For the alternative, the more attractive and longer route along the North Shore, see Route 36 (p 627). R. 35 1. Boston to Newburyport. 36.5 m. This turnpike was one of the earliest structures in this country between the then two almost equally important com- mercial cities of Boston and Newburyport. It runs in an almost straight line across country, up hill and down, through some charming rural scenery, avoiding all the industrial centers of the larger towns. The road surfaces are not so per- fect as on the shore road. The route follows the course of Route 36 (p 627) to the Revere Beach Parkway, where it turns left at the crossroads (7.0), with trolley, on Broadway. 7.5 EVERETT. Pop 33,484 (1910), 37,718 (1915); one fourth for- eign-born. Middlesex Co. Settled 1630. Mfg. coke, gas, chemicals, shoes, spring beds. A manufacturing suburb of Boston, it is the headquarters of the New England Gas & Coke Co. This interesting and novel enterprise was established twenty years ago by Henry M. Whitney, who conceived the idea of bringing cheap Cape Breton coal here by water for manufacturing the gas for delivery by pipe lines to the gas companies in and about Boston. Coke is an important by-product. Everett figures in the news- paper columns as the source of the football wonders, named Brickley. One or another of them continues to cause com- motion in some way in intercollegiate athletics. Their sire is city superintendent of streets. The route passes through the center of the city, crossing R.R. at Broadway Station, and follows the macadam road to Lynnfield. To the west lie the towns of Maiden and Melrose, to the east Cliftondale. Passing through the woods in the western part of Saugus township, we cross Route 21 (p 480). 15.5 LYNNFIELD. Pop (twp) 911 (1910), 1112 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1720. Mfg. vinegar, cider, and elderberry wine. Beyond Lynnfield, where we cross Route 29 (p 514), the turnpike skirts Sontaug Lake, where stands Sontaug Inn, a popular road house, and from here on runs straight as an arrow for twenty miles up hill and down dale. Beyond the lake we climb a long grade to an altitude of 160 feet. Three miles to the east lies Peabody and just beyond we pass through the western portion of the town of Danvers (p 690) . (625) 626 LYNNFIELD PORTSMOUTH Near the crossroads, toward Danvers, is the Ferncroft Inn, a lively road house of good cheer, which has figured largely in the headlines of Boston papers the last few years because of the various illicit doings of its former notorious proprietor. Ihe original inn, burned down in 1910, occupied the old Nichols House and the name Ferncroft was given by Whittier. The turnpike traverses a hilly region in the town of Tops- field on Route 29 (p 515). It has recently been taken up by large residential estates. Just before reaching the little hamlet of CHAPLINVILLE (29.0), Hunsley Hill (260 ft) rises on the left. At GLEN MILLS (32.0) we come in sight of the salt marshes. Just after crossing Mill Creek, Dummer Academy, at South Byfield, stands under the lee of a friendly hill. This is one of the earliest of the oldtime academies. It was endowed by William Dummer, Lieutenant-governor of Massachusetts, who left his house and farm here for the establishment of a grammar school in 1761. It was opened in 1763, and from its threshold many of the educated men of the Revolutionary days stepped out into the new America. For a time it sank wellnigh into oblivion, but it has re- vived its old activity together with many of the oldtime customs. Crossing Parker River we climb to the Newbury plateau. Note. The cart road to the right leads a quarter mile east to the Devil's Den, a quarry made by the early settlers where fine specimens of serpentine are found. The Devil's Basin with its gloomy tarn is nearby. 30.5 NEWBURYPORT (R. 36, p 658). R. 35 2. Newburyport to Portsmouth. 215m. This direct route to Portsmouth is via the Lafayette Road, named in honor of the distinguished Frenchman upon his visit to America in 1825. From Newburyport follow the blue and then the yellow markers of Route 36 (p 663) to Hampton. Here the Lafayette Road leads straight on. On the left (13.5) is the hamlet of North Hampton. The road rounds Breakfast Hill (140 ft). It received its odd name from an Indian affray of 1696 in which the tribe descended on the village, slew or captured some twenty-one of its inhabitants and retired to this hill to breakfast, whither the re- mainder of the settlers pursued them and, driving them put of the country for the time, ate the breakfast prepared by the fleeing enemy. This upland region is more broken and rolling than the coun- try to the south, with growths of pine among its meadows. 21.5 PORTSMOUTH (R. 36, p 666). R. 36. BOSTON to PORTLAND. 129.0 m. Via THE NORTH SHORE, NEWBURYPORT and PORTSMOUTH. This is the chief entrance to Maine, the only route to the Maritime Provinces, and a favorite approach to the White Mountains. It is much frequented by summer motorists, and is doubly popular, since it traverses the richest portion of New England in story, history, and marine coastal scenery. Its almost countless attractions include the three old 'ports,' Newburyport, Portsmouth, and Portland, splendid estates, seaside resorts, and moldering old towns, great in the com- merce of a century ago. The route is marked by blue bands to the Massachusetts line and thence by yellow bands to Portsmouth. R. 36 1. Boston to Newburyport. 48.0 m. Via LYNN, SALEM, BEVERLY, and IPSWICH; with detours to NAHANT, MARBLEHEAD, and CAPE ANN. This route follows the rugged coast of Massachusetts north- ward. Though longer than the direct Route 35, via Newbury- port Turnpike, the roads are better and the attractions mani- fold. The first score of miles along the coast present unusually varied beauty: rugged headlands shelter the curving beaches, with parked estates and heavy woods sloping down to the sea. Ihe richly varied landscape has made this shore for a century the favorite residential resort of Boston 'Brahmins'; in recent decades it has been invaded by the multi-millionaire class from Pittsburgh and the great West. Perhaps no other pleas- ure region in the country has so large a representation of wealth as that including Beverly, Prides Crossing, Manchester, Hamilton, and Ipswich. The succession of great estates sug- gests the English countryside, and the society is correspond- ingly 'sporty.' "On the North Shore one must dress for dinner; on the South Shore, one may." "You haven't seen America if you haven't seen the North Shore," said a distin- guished diplomat, and the diplomats evidently believe it for here they chiefly gather from June to November. It has been called the "Gold Coast" because of its plethora of millionaires who summer here. The route from Boston follows splendid boulevards along or near the sea to the great shoe city of Lynn, thence through a succession of minor coast resorts to the still quaint city of Salem, rich in relics of the days when its trade and wealth rivaled that of Boston. From Salem the course leads through a region of magnificent estates. Ihe detour round Cape Ann (627) 628 BOSTON NAHANT through Gloucester is well worth while. Further north the long whale-backed drumlins and richly colored levels of the marshes behind the sand dunes offer a diverse picture. The exit from Boston is along narrow and congested streets. Two decades of civic stupidity and political perversity have stood in the way of the proposed boulevard between the Charles and the Mystic. Slow and careful driving is essential as far as the Fellsway entrance. Leaving Boston by way of Commonwealth Ave. to Massa- chusetts Ave. and crossing Harvard Bridge to Central Square, Cambridge (3.0), the route turns right on Prospect St. with the trolley to Union Sq., Somerville (4.0). Beyond the square it turns right on Walnut St. up a steep grade and across Broad- way into Fellsway, crossing the Mystic river by Wellington Bridge, and then turning to the right upon the Revere Beach Parkway. This boulevard, together with Fellsway under the Metropolitan Park Commission, is the most popular of Boston's motorways and is one of the chief entrances and exits to Boston. The Metropolitan Park Police, in gray uniform, mounted on motorcycles, strictly enforce the motor laws. The Parkway runs through the southern part of Everett (p 625) and the northern portion of 6.0 CHELSEA. Pop 32,452 (1910), 43,426 (1915). Suffolk Co. Settled 1624. Indian name Winnissimet. Mfg. foundry and machine shop products, rubber goods, stoves and furnaces, shoes, dog bread; lithography. This is an industrial city with a large Jewish population and diverse other foreign elements, including many Poles. Horatio Alger was born here, and B. P. Shillaber, the creator of Mrs. Partington, made his home here for many years. In 1908 a $17,000,000 fire burned over an area of 287 acres and destroyed the homes of 16,000 people. Chelsea is one of Boston's most important manufacturing suburbs, with large reservations on the Mystic occupied by the U.S. Naval Hospi- tal and the Marine Hospital. The boulevard skirts the shoulders of Powderhorn Hill, on which is a Soldiers' Home: it thence leads to REVERE BEACH (10.0), Boston's Coney Island, the first publicly owned sea- side pleasure ground in the country, established in 1893. Here on the Metropolitan Reservation is the public Bath House, a brick structure in the midst of countless popular shows. In summer more than 100,000 people often visit the beach in a single day. On Sundays and holidays, to avoid the beach crowds, automobiles are obliged to follow the recently opened highway behind the amusement buildings. Note. South of Revere Beach are Beachmont and Winthrop Shore, the latter also a Metropolitan improvement. In Winthrop R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 629 are the harbor fortifications of Fort Banks and Fort Heath. The batteries at the latter contain some of the largest mortars on the Atlantic Coast. At Winthrop in winter storms, the surf is sometimes thrown forty feet above the roadway. At the extreme end of the Winthrop promontory is Point Shirley with the Point Shirley Club, a favorite haunt of a group of Boston business men. Just beyond is the narrow Shirley Gut across which lies Deer Island with the Boston City prisons. Escaping prisoners have lost their lives in trying to swim this narrow channel with its swift current. Between Revere and Lynn the Parkway runs along the beach, paralleled by the Boston & Maine R.R. and "the 'narrow- gauge,' the Boston, Revere Beach & Lynn, a paragon of railroads, described by the Massachusetts Public Service Commission as giving complete satisfaction in service and re- sults to patrons and stockholders alike. Across Lynn Bay the peninsula of Nahant stands out against the horizon. Inland are the wide Lynn and Saugus marshes. Oak Island, a recreation grove, is on the left; beyond on the right the Point of Pines, once a favorite pleasure resort, has lately been developed for seaside homes. Ahead is Lynn, bristling with tall chimneys, and the square tower on High Rock in its center. The route crosses the Saugus river on which, to the west, lies Saugus in a charming region rarely visited by the traveler. See Route 21 (p 480). On the outskirts of Lynn on the left is the mammoth plant of the General Electric Company, built on reclaimed marsh- land. In 1915 this became a center of munitions manufact- ure. The company maintains instruction courses in mechani- cal and scientific subjects for scores of beginners, thereby training efficient workmen. The normal weekly payroll of $150,000 is divided among 13,^00 employees who produce annually products valued at $20,000,000. Detour to Nahant. 6.0 m. At the entrance to Lynn the Nahant road bears right to the boulevard which leads across the narrow natural causeway of Nahant Beach to Little Nahant and 3.0 NAHANT. Pop 1184 (1910), 1384 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1630. Steamers to Boston daily in summer. Nahant has for several generations been a favorite resort of conservative Bostonians, although it has lately lost something of its earlier prestige. So many of the Boston 'Brahmin' families once resorted here that a generation ago one of them, 'Tom' Appleton, Longfellow's brother-in-law and a famous wit, called it "Cold Roast Boston." The section about Bass Point to which excursion steamers run is a popular summer resort for Boston 'day trippers.' But Nahant as a whole is 630 NAHANT LYNN still almost as retired and tranquil as in the days when Long- fellow, Motley, Prescott, Story, Agassiz, and other Boston authors passed their summers here. On Willard Road, just off Cliff St., is the site of the cottage where Longfellow began "Hiawatha" and wrote "The Bells of Lynn" and several other poems including "Ah! what pleasant memories haunt me, As I gaze upon the sea! All the old romantic legends, All my dreams come back to me." At Eastern Point is the unpretentious but spacious residence of Henry Cabot Lodge. The isolated, temple-like structure was formerly the billiard room of a large hotel that once stood here and is now used by Senator Lodge as a library. The Cliff Walk, through private grounds but generously open to the public, runs along the northeast cliffs, between the pleasant villas and the sea. The rugged crags and sea-worn chasms bear such names as The Pulpit, Castle Rock, The Churn, and Swallows' Cave. Nahant originally consisted of two rocky islands, now bound to the mainland by a long strip of sandy beach. It was named by Captain John Smith "Fullerton's Island"; perhaps the neck across to the mainland was not then complete. In 1630 it was bought from the Indians for a suit of clothes; now it has an assessed value of $7,000,000. Once covered with woods, long since disappeared, the ample shade of today is due to the initiative of Frederick Tudor the 'Ice King' and merchant prince who spent a million dollars in beautifying the penin- sula; and also to the interest of another resident, Thomas H. Perkins, who built the first summer cottage near the Spouting Horn. Motley began his "Dutch Republic" in the cottage of Hannah Hood, once on the George Upham estate, opposite Whitney's Hotel. At Nahant also Prescott worked on his "Conquest of Mexico" and Agassiz wrote much of his volume on Brazil, and N. P. Willis, Whittier, and many others likewise gained inspiration for their writings. 16.0 LYNN. Pop 89,336 (1910), 95,803 (1915); one quarter for- eign-born, consisting mainly of English and French Cana- dians, Irish, Poles, Armenians, and Greeks. Essex Co. Settled 1629. Port of Entry. Mfg. shoes and shoe findings, electrical apparatus, foundry products, machinery, and pro- prietary medicines. Value of Product, $78,947,766 (1913); Payroll, $18,210,387. Lynn leads the country in the manufacture of women's shoes, cut stock, and other shoe findings. More than 100 firms are engaged in the shoe industries; about 250 others make various goods, in value equaling the shoe output. In shoes and shoe products, Lynn now leads its rival, Brockton, the foremost city in the manufacture of men's shoes and claim- ing a slightly larger production in shoes alone. Its total daily shoe output approximates 175,000 pairs. Lynn has one of the largest plants of the General Elec- tric Company, now a large producer of war munitions, and R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 631 is also the home of Lydia Pinkham's Vegetable Compound, advertised so widely by "Lydia's astringent smile," as Dr. Oliver Wendell Holmes put it. It is claimed that Lynn, for its size, is the best lighted city in the country. High Rock with its massive square tower, in the center of the city, is an outpost of the rocky hill rim of the Boston basin which curves hence along the Middlesex Fells round to the Blue Hills of Milton. It is a public pleasure ground, the tower commemorating the Hutchinson family of anti-slavery singers, whose last survivor gave it to the city. The view from the summit is certainly worth the climb. At the foot of High Rock was the home of Moll Pitcher, a celebrated fortune- teller of the eighteenth century, whose predictions were re- markable for their fulfillment. Her clients included the edu- cated and illustrious as well as the poor and ignorant (p 636). Western Avenue, the old Salem Turnpike, crosses Glenmere Pond near the Salem line by the "floating bridge," an unusual plank structure opened with the turnpike in 1803, and said to be the only permanent bridge of its kind in New England. Lynn Woods, in the west of the city, is a 2ooo-acre park; a rocky wild pleasure grove with features of exceptional beauty. Under Dungeon Rock in these woods, according to tradition, there was once a cave where buccaneers concealed vast treas- ure. The entrance to the cavern, says the story, was closed by the historic earthquake of 1658. In 1852 Hiram Marble, guided by a clairvoyant, bought this piece of ground and for seventeen years searched for the treasure until his death, when his son vainly kept up the quest, ignoring all geological evidence. A tunnel, seven feet high and 135 feet long, driven into the rock, is today closed by an iron gate. On Lantern Rock, nearby, the pirates of early days are reputed to have hung their signal lanterns. Another historic feature is the Wolf Pits, dug by the early settlers to trap the numerous wolves. Rattlesnakes are still occasionally found among the rocks; a Lynn collector is reputed to catch from 50 to 100 each year for museums and scientific laboratories. Lynn is older than Boston, having been settled in 1629. It was originally called Saugus, an Indian name meaning "extended." In 1637 the town was named in honor of King's Lynn, in Norfolk, Eng- land; the present town of Saugus was set off in 1815 (p 480). From the beginning it has been a manufacturing community. One of the first settlers was a tanner, and the first iron works in New Eng- land, in which John Winthrop, Jr., was interested, was established in Lynn in 1642. The first casting made in America, a kettle, is shown in the Lynn Public Library. The site of the ancient foundry was on the Saugus river near Saugus Center. The iron was taken from neighboring bogs, which also supplied peat fuel. The shoe industry was firmly established in the beginning of the eighteenth century. The 'back-yard' shops stood beside almost every house in town, for 632 LYNN MARBLEHEAD the average family earned at least part of its subsistence by making shoes at home. The introduction of the sewing machine and other machinery replaced these shops with factories. Before 1794 New England shoes had hard wooden heels; then came heels with springs inside; finally the present heel destroyed the special industry of heel- making. Elihu Thomson, a Philadelphia chemistry teacher, laid the foundations of another great industry. His electrical inventions and the Thomson-Houston Electric Company organized thereon led to the erection of a large plant now merged with the General Electric Co. From the Common, Essex Street offers the direct route to Salem, but the more attractive route is along the shore. From Washington Square, an open triangle upon which face the brick Colonial building of the Lynn Women's Club and the Colonial house of the Oxford Club, the route turns down Nahant St. to the Lynn Shore Drive. The residential section bordering on the ocean front is uncommonly attractive. On the drive, midway between Prescott Road and King St. is the turreted and gargoyled house (1847) of Francis Alexander, painter of familiar portraits of Longfellow, Dickens, and other celebrities. Later the house was occupied by Daniel Web- ster's son, Fletcher. From King's Beach projects Red Rock, a favorite spot with Mrs. Mary Baker Eddy, who wrote "Sci- ence and Health" while living at 12 Broad St., two blocks inland. This drive curves around King's Beach, following there the course of the old Puritan Road, dating back to 1629, one of the oldest highways in the country. On the left is the beautiful Mudge estate with a memorial church. 17.5 SWAMPSCOTT. Pop (twp) 6204 (1910), 7345 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1629. Indian name Wonnesqitamsauke, "broken waters" or "at the red rock." This is a residential suburb with a large summer hotel and many handsome shore estates. The cannon in Monument Square were captured by men of Swampscott from a British frigate in the War of 1812. At Blaney's Beach is the Town Fish House, a unique municipal institution from which the fishermen start each morning for the fishing grounds off shore, though fish are becoming "scurcer." The Blaney house, one of the oldest in the town, was built in 1650. Beyond Short Beach, Galloupes Point, a rocky headland, puts out. On it is the old Galloupe house and the residence of Dr. S. J. Mixter. Further north is Phillips Point, a region of fine residences adjacent to Phillips Beach. The original derivation of Swampscott, "Wonnesquamsauke," is said to mean "broken waters," referring perhaps to the "stern and rock-bound coast" against which the surf breaks. The first tannery in the United States was established here by Francis Ingalls in 1629. This was once predominantly a fishing town and here was invented the 'Swampscott dory.' Its flat bottom and wide flare give it such stability that it is now universally used by fishermen. Swampscott is the scene of Hawthorne's short tale "The Village Uncle." R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 633 The Metropolitan Shore Drive terminates at Monument Square. Hence there are two ways of reaching Salem, one inland which leads up through the Mudge estate to Paradise Road, thence past the golf links of the Tedesco Country Club. The other leads due east along the car line on Humphrey St. to the Fish House, where a turn to the right is made into Puri- tan Road, a picturesque driveway which follows the shore for a distance of about two miles until it reaches Atlantic Ave. At this point follow the car tracks bearing to the left at the Tedesco Country Club, where the main Salem line, with blue markers, will be reached, which meets the following detour at the Salem Normal School (p 637). Detour to Marblehead. 6.0 m. Starting at Monument Square follow car tracks to the Fish House, thence into Puritan Road passing the New Ocean House at Whale's Beach, as far as Atlantic Ave., continuing east on Atlantic Ave. past the Hotel Preston at Beach Bluff. Beyond is Clifton (1.5) with a cluster of attractive residences on a bold shore. Dike Rock, noted among geologists, is a granite formation cut by many intrusive dikes of different materials. Further on across the fields is the Devereux man- sion, a structure of comparatively recent date on the site of an old farmhouse visited by Longfellow in 1846 and celebrated in "The Fire of Driftwood." "We sat within the farm-house old, Whose windows, looking o'er the bay, Gave to the sea breeze damp and cold An easy entrance night and day." 3.0 MARBLEHEAD. Pop (twp) 7338 (1910), 7606 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1629. Mfg. shoes, yachts, and aeroplanes. No modern industrial invasion has marred the charm and quaintness of this "strange oldfashioned silent town." Its narrow rambling streets and its ancient houses amid its granite ledges remain much as for two centuries, except that a growing appreciation for what is ancient and for the numerous summer residents, yachtsmen, and tourists has resulted in some refur- bishing of the old houses, and the multiplication of tea rooms and gift shops. Marblehead everywhere savors of the sea and of the old fishing and privateering days, and recalls vivid memories of the Revolution, which the Marblehead inhabi- tants took most intensely. It has sometimes been called the "Birthplace of the American Navy." Tht deep, well-pro- tected harbor, unhampered by commercial traffic, makes it today the yachting center of the North Shore, as in earlier days it was of privateering. During the season it is crowded with pleasure craft of every description. On the further shore are the Eastern and the Corinthian Yacht Clubs. Overlook- 634 MARBLEHEAD ing the harbor is the Hotel Rockmere, and not far off are the yacht yards of W. Starling Burgess and the aerodrome of the Curtiss Aeroplane Company. Marblehead Neck, like Nahant once an island, is joined to the mainland by a narrow neck of sand and gravel over which the road runs. The 'Neck,' as this rocky peninsula is called, is a favorite summer resort for well-to-do Boston people. Along its ragged shore rocky ledges alternate with little stretches of sandy beach. The ledges are interesting geologically. Often within a few paces fully a score of dikes of intrusive rock of different periods, character, and color may be seen criss-crossing and cutting each other. The Churn, through which the surf spouts and roars, is a narrow chasm in the rock formed by the wearing away of such a dike of softer material. Washington Street with its continuation, Orne Street, is the straightest thoroughfare in the town. Along its course are most of the historic sites and houses; at the head of Wash- ington St. stands Abbot Hall, whose tower, together with the spire of St. Michael's Church, nearby, dominates the town. The former is the Town Hall; in it hangs the famous and much copied painting by A. M. Willard, "The Spirit of '76." The Colonel William Lee mansion (open April to October; free), opposite Abbot Hall, was designed by Bulfinch, the architect of the Boston State House. Its drawing room is hung with a hand-painted wall paper. Colonel Lee enter- tained Washington and also Lafayette here. The Jeremiah Lee mansion (open daily in summer; adm. 10 cents), built in 1768, a little further down Washington St., is one of the finest and most elaborately furnished of the period. Long utilized as banking offices it was in 1909 acquired by the Historical Society. It contains an interesting collection of antiques; the interior finish with its mahogany wainscoting and the well-preserved wall paper is well worth seeing. The large kitchen was equipped to provide for a banquet of a hundred. Its hospitable builder, the wealthy merchant Jeremiah Lee, took an active part in the beginning of the Revolution and died of fever contracted while hiding from the British in the corn- field behind the Black Horse Tavern near Lexington (p 430). On Summer St. just to the left of Washington is St. Michael's (1714), one of the oldest Episcopal Churches in America. The interior contains an ancient reredos brought from England, an English brass chandelier of 1732, and a communion service of 1745. The old Town Hall (1727) is Marblehead's 'Cradle of Liberty.' In its loft the instigators of the Revolution met in secret to conspire against England, and here Glover recruited his famous regiment. R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 635 Nearly opposite is the birthplace and ancestral home of Chief Justice Story. On the right, in State St., facing a little square, is the plain old mansion of the shoemaker patriot John Glover. He commanded the 2ist Massachusetts foot, or "amphibious regiment," all but four of the nine hundred Marblehead sea- men, whose skill made possible the retreat of the Continental forces from Long Island and saved the day at Trenton by ferrying the army across the Delaware. Skipper Ireson's house is perhaps the first thing visitors to Marblehead wish to see, and the last thing Marblehead people care to show; they resent the mis- fame bestowed upon the town by VVhittier's best known poem. The house is at 'Oakum Bay,' a curious jog in Circle St., near the corner, a little north of the Glover house. Off Highland Light Ireson sighted a wreck when rescue was impossible. He went below leaving orders to "stand by until morning," which, however, his crew disobeyed. Whittier's popular poem, in the old Marble- head dialect, "Flud Oirson, fur his horrd horrt, Torr'd an' futherr'd an' corr'd in a corrt By the women o' Morble'ead!" undoubtedly did injustice to both Ireson and the women of the town. Tarred he was, but the women of Marblehead, " wrinkled scolds" or "girls in bloom," had nothing to do with the ride. Whittier himself apologetically wrote: "My verse was solely founded on a fragment of rhyme which I heard from one of my schoolmates, a native of Marblehead. I certainly would not do injustice to any one, dead or living." A later poet has come to the vigorous defense of Ireson : "Old Flood Ireson! all too long Have jeer and jibe and ribald song Done thy memory cruel wrong." Nearly opposite the old North Church at 44 State St. is the old Gerry House, birthplace of Elbridge Gerry, patriot, 'signer,' politician, Governor, and Vice-president of the United States. His name is perpetuated in the term "gerrymander," a form of political manipulation which he devised when Gover- nor of Massachusetts in 1811 by cunningly redistricting Essex County, snatching political victory from apparent defeat. Near the corner of Franklin St. is the house of Colonel Azor Orne, colleague of Gerry and Glover. He loaned the Govern- ment a barrel of silver dollars which was never repaid, an early instance of the Federal Government's bad faith. The street from here on bears Orne's name. This region of the town beyond was formerly known as Barnegat, from the cele- brated Barnegat pirate shore of New Jersey, because it had the reputation, in early days, of harboring pirates and smugglers. 636 MARBLEHE AD SALEM 42 Orne St. is the "Old Brig" where Moll Pitcher, the fortune- teller of Lynn, passed her girlhood and where she learned from her father, old John Dimond, how to practice the 'black arts.' According to popular belief, 'Old Dimond' from a nearby rocky hill on dark and stormy nights gave orders in a loud voice to the helmsmen of ships far out at sea. His neighbors never doubted his ability thus to bring a vessel safely into port. 'Shinbone Alley' was the name of a narrow lane from the beach to the Fountain Inn, where Fountain Park is now. Here the well of the old inn still remains, but the inn itself was torn down in 1779. The pretty romance of Agnes Surriage, the maid of the inn, survives as one of the cherished legends of the town; it gave both Holmes and Longfellow the theme for poems, and Alice Brown and E. L. Bynner founded novels upon it. In 1742 the young and dashing Sir Henry Frankland, royal sur- veyor of customs at the port of Boston, came upon this "beauteous maiden" as in tattered and scanty raiment she scrubbed the floor of the inn. Captivated by her sweetness and charm he made her his mistress. Rescued by the ever-faithful Agnes, when in the great Lisbon earthquake of 1755 he was buried in the ruins, his conscience smote him, and he made her Lady Frankland. Above is the old burying hill where stood the first meeting house. In the crevices of this rocky elevation are the remains of Marblehead's historic dead. The white shaft commemorates those "Lost on the Grand Banks of Newfoundland in the memo- rable gale of November 19, 1846. ... 65 men and boys; 43 heads of families, leaving 155 fatherless children." Further on is old Fort Sewall, now a public park, which with Peach's Point encloses Little Harbor. The latter is now a favorite place of summer residence. The Robert D. Evans house, occupied at Beverly by President Taft as the 'summer White House' for two seasons, was later cut in two, floated across the bay and re-erected here. Originally a part of Salem, and known as Marble Harbor from the vari-colored rocks of its shores, Marblehead was separated from Salem in 1640. The mother town did not repine, as the seceding population was so turbulent as to be a byword. Years after the fol- lowing anecdote was rife: A traveler passing through Lynn asked the way to Marblehead. The road was pointed out. "But how shall I know when I get there?" "Well, by the time your buggy-top's pretty well stove in and your head's 'most knocked off, you'll know you're there." About 1700, emigrants from the Channel Islands settled here, speaking the peculiar dialect that is still occasionally heard there. A rough, sturdy, seafaring folk, the citizens of Marble- head were foremost among the patriots of the Revolution. In fact the town claims the palm of Lexington and Concord because of the "Rose" incident of 1769. A press-gang sent aboard a Marblehead brig off Cape Ann by the British sloop "Rose" met with resistance, and in the ensuing three-hour hand-to-hand fight a British lieuten- ant was stabbed with a harpoon and two Americans killed. The powder house (1759) has lasted through four wars. R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 637 At the close of the Revolution there were 1000 orphans and 500 widows in Marblehead. Not a whit discouraged, when the War of 1812 broke out Marblehead sailors again came to the fore. The great victories of the "Constitution" were regarded as almost a local triumph because more than half the "Constitution's" crew were Marblehead men. The engagement of the "Chesapeake" and the "Shannon" took place in sight of Marblehead in June, 1813. Of the 1000 Marble- head men in the War of 1812, 700 or more were in British prisons at its close. Lincoln's first call for troops did not reach the town until late at night, but the first company to report at Faneuil Hall the next morning was from Marblehead. The town's patriotism had had to be her only reward. Her prosperity as a leading port of pre-Revolutionary times is absolutely gone; from that day she has been little more than a village, almost destroyed by fire in 1877 and 1888. From Marblehead the route follows Pleasant St. with the trolley across R.R. at Devereux Station (4.0) and bears right with the trolley at the fork across R.R. at Forest Station. Just before crossing Forest River the road passes a plain stretching back to the left on the highland above. Here it was first proposed to locate Harvard College. At a Salem town meeting in May, 1635, the application for this land was referred to a committee to "consider of the premises least it should hinder the building of a colledge wh would be manie mens losse." The road rejoins the direct route at the iron trough in the triangle at the Salem Normal School (6.0). 23.5 SALEM. Pop 43,697 (1910), 37,200 (1915); one third foreign- born. Shire town of Essex Co. Settled 1626. Indian name Naumkeag. Mfg. cotton, leather, and shoes. Value of Product (1913), $17,344,000; Payroll, $3,370,000. Salem to most people brings to mind witches and Nathaniel Hawthorne. True it hung more witches than any other town, but there had been witch-baiting and witch-hanging in other towns in New England for half a century before ever a witch appeared in Salem. Hawthorne was a native of Salem, but lived much in other portions of New England. The glory of Salem's past was in her foreign commerce. During the latter part of the eighteenth century the ships of Salem were found in every commercial port of the world. The credit of opening India, China, and the entire East to American commerce is due to her merchants. The records of the old days are rich in the romance of trade, and it was through their daring initiative that her merchant princes waxed wealthy. The old Salem, staid and thrifty, a world to itself, seems to have retired from active business to live on the accumulations of the past. Many descendants of the oldtime merchant princes became Bostonians. Others lost their civic pride and were indifferent to Salem's fall into political and economic decay. Its hardy perennial Mayor, 'Silk Hat Hurley,' and its 'Boy Mayor' have not won the community respect from 638 SALEM without. Corrupt conditions and civic neglect were largely contributory to the disastrous fire which so nearly wiped out the city. A recent writer on Salem seems to have been most impressed with the "filthy railway station" and the fact that the witches, Salem's most widely known historic asset, were all five miles away at Danvers, and that even Gallows Hill is a mile west of the town. But since Louise Closser Hale discov- ered New England the station, it is reported, has been painted. Stung by such comment and stimulated by the disastrous fire, there has of late been an awakening of civic pride, an attempt to better conditions both political and material. The recent election to the mayoralty of Henry P. Benson, brother of the artist, is the most significant indication of a new spirit. The interest of the city today is in the old houses, museums, and relics with which she is still so richly endowed. The city is in truth a storehouse of antiquities and its architecture has been a source of inspiration to modern-time builders. The fine old doorways of the Colonial mansions are a feast for the eyes; the oldtime interiors, the carved mantels, the hand- some wainscots, were likewise the work of cunning craftsmen who wrought with conscientious pride. Salem's foremost ar- chitect was Samuel Mclntire, who in the latter years of the eighteenth century elaborated the tradition of the brothers Adam in the mansions of Salem's mariner princes (p 46). Three generations since there was a migration of old Salem families to Boston, as in the removal of the merchant prince, Handyside Perkins. In late years there has been a return current which has given Salem an artist colony, including such names as Philip Little, the late Ross Turner, Frank W. Benson, I. H. Caliga, and L. H. Bridgman, the illustrator. Since the middle of the nineteenth century Salem's mari- time importance has steadily declined. Her shipping is now limited to coal-carrying sailing vessels and barges, and the old wharves now land no more precious commodity. Manufac- turing interests have saved Salem from a mellow desuetude. The Naumkeag Cotton Mills are the overshadowing manu- facturing interest, which has so transformed the population that one third are foreign-born and two thirds are of foreign parentage. Their great mills, destroyed in the 1914 fire, have been re-erected in more substantial form and the company has built blocks of model tenements. Tanning and leather are also important industries. Where the tanneries are located, in the region near the station, known as Blubber Hollow, the 1914 fire started. The product of the tanning industry has a value of over $17,000,000. Salem is built mainly on a peninsula. Salem Harbor lies R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 639 between the peninsula and Marblehead, so admirably situated for the oldtime commerce, but too shallow for the ocean steamships of today. The Peabody Museum (open free daily), on Essex St., was founded by the gift in 1867 of George Peabody (p 514). It oc- cupies the old hall of the East India Marine Society and is one of the most interesting museums in the country. Especially interesting are the models, pictures, and mementos of the old- time merchant ships which brought Salem her prosperity. There are interesting ethnological and natural history collec- tions and specimens of Oriental arts and crafts. These col- lections originated with the curios brought home by ship captains from foreign ports. The Marine Society was organized in 1799 as a benevolent association to aid widows and children. Its membership was limited to "persons who had actually navigated the seas beyond the Cape of Good Hope or Cape Horn as masters or supercargoes belonging to Salem." A little further down the street is the Essex Institute (open free daily), another famous scientific organization. It occu- pies two brick buildings on the site of Governor Bradstreet's mansion and William H. Prescott's birthplace. Its museum contains the largest collection of antiquarian and historical objects illustrating the life of the early New England settler. There are three type-rooms, a New England kitchen of 1750 and a bedroom and parlor of 1800. The picture gallery con- tains many portraits by Stuart, Copley, Trumbull, etc. In the rear of the building, and approached through it, is the old John Ward house, built in 1684, with an overhanging second story; it is furnished in the manner of that time. In the lean-to is an apothecary shop of 1825; nearby is an old- fashioned shoemaker's shop of 1830. Near the back door is a well-sweep and a garden of the flowers and herbs that were grown in Salem before 1700. The libraries housed in the Essex Institute contain valuable collections of old and rare books. Behind the Institute is the little first Quaker Meeting House, built in 1686 by Thomas Maule. Formerly this was traditionally known as the Roger Williams Church. A doorway from the Grimshaw house is preserved close by. Nathaniel Hawthorne, the somber chronicler of New Eng- land's austerity, was born in 1804 in the little gambrel-roofed house, 27 Union St., just off Essex St. to the right. Between Elm and Walnut Sts., half a block away, the new Hawthorne Place Park has been made, for which Bela Pratt has modeled a statue of the author. Much of his boyhood was spent in the Manning house, 12 Herbert St., where his room in the southwest corner of the third story overlooked his birthplace. 640 SALEM Of it he writes: "Here I sit in my old accustomed chamber, where I used to sit in days gone by. Here I have written many tales. Should I have a biographer, he ought to make great mention of this chamber in my memoirs, because much of my lonely youth was wasted here." At another time he said, "In this dismal chamber Fame was won." When he lost his position at the Custom House it was to yet another house, 14 Maule St., that he came to tell his wife the sad news; but when she heard it she only said: "Very well! Now you can write your romance." And so "The Scarlet Letter" was written. It was there, too, that James T, Fields found him and had the conversation of which he later wrote in "Yesterdays with Authors." Hawthorne belonged to an old Salem family; ^udge Hathorne, before whom the witches were tried, was one of his ancestors. For generations the family had fol- lowed the sea, but Hawthorne failed to see the thrill and romance in this old seafaring, privateering life. Derby Street, along the waterfront, recalls the ancient days of Salem's glorious ocean enterprise. Here is the stately pil- lared Custom House, built in 1819 when the port had already begun to decline; here Hawthorne at his desk, now in the Essex Institute, first thought out and made his notes for "The Scarlet Letter." Just opposite is the old Derby Wharf, where the rich cargoes from the Orient and plunder from cap- tured vessels were unloaded. The House of the Seven Gables (adm. 25 cents), built in 1669, but much restored, is at 59 Turner St. Here Hawthorne frequently visited his cousin. Six of the rooms with a secret staircase are shown. At the old Grimshawe house, 53 Charter St., Hawthorne courted Sophia Peabody, who became his wife. This is the scene of two of Hawthorne's stories, "Dr. Grim- shawe's Secret" and "The Dolliver Romance." The building was seriously damaged by fire in 1915; when repaired the beautiful old doorway was removed and is now in the rear of Essex Institute. The house, recently purchased by a Greek dancing-master, has been transformed into a hotel for the delectation of tourists who like to say they have spent a night in it. In the adjoining old "Burying Point" repose the re- mains of Governor Bradstreet, Chief Justice Lynde, Colonel John Hathorne, one of the magistrates at the witch trials and an ancestor of Nathaniel, and other early worthies. Westward on Essex St. is the Public Library, formerly the town house of John Bertram, a merchant prince whose widow bequeathed his residence to the city for its present use. At the corner of North St. is the Corwin or 'Witch House,' said to have been the property of Roger Williams. Here were held some of the preliminary examinations of the witches. The house, much changed, has a drug store built in front. The Ropes Memorial, 318 Essex St., the homestead of Judge Nathaniel Ropes (1726-74), contains interesting old furniture, china, glass, and Colonial relics. (Open free Tues., Thurs., R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 641 Sat., 2-5 P.M., April to December. Its oldfashioned garden is open every afternoon except Monday.) Chestnut Street, lined with elms and stately houses, many of them still occupied by descendants of the early families, is one of the finest old streets in America. Philip Little, the painter, lives at No. 10. In Broad St. is the fine old Pick- ering house (1660) always in the possession of the one family. The old brick Court House, on Federal St., contains the original warrants on which the nineteen witchcraft victims were executed, and some of the famous 'witch pins,' whose devilish powers of torment were so efficacious in producing confession. The Pierce-Nichols house, on Federal St., built in 1782, is typical of old Salem at its best; it is filled with fine old Sheraton and Hepplewhite furniture, carved Chinese chairs, and other acquisitions of the ancient seafaring family who furnished their house from the four quarters of the earth. In the rear is a Spanish courtyard with a terraced English garden running down to the water. At the old Assembly House, 128 Federal St., Washington attended a ball where "there was at least a hundred handsome and well-dressed ladies" as he remarks in his diary. Lafayette, too, was impressed with the brilliance of the reception tendered him here, writing: "Mais ce fut a Salem que 1'eclat de sa reception se fit particulierement remarquer." The peninsula of Salem is prolonged into Salem Neck, where are the city Poor Farm, Fort Lee, and Salem Willows, a water- side park and pleasure ground thronged by holiday-makers. The Salem Cadet Band plays here frequently in summer. The willows themselves are of astonishing size; many of them over a century old. On Winter Island in Salem Bay is Fort Pickering; some miles out toward the ocean are Bakers, Little Misery, and Great Misery Islands. The bay is a favorite harbor of refuge; when a storm is in prospect scores of schoon- ers hurry in from off Cape Ann instead of making for Gloucester. Salem, after Plymouth, is the oldest permanent settlement in New England. It was settled in 1626 as a commercial venture by Roger Conant and others who planned to prosper partly by agriculture and partly by furnishing winter quarters for the fishermen from the Banks. The first Governor, John Endicott, made this the capital of the Colony until superseded by Winthrop, the first governor of the Massachusetts Bay Company, who landed here in 1630 and soon removed the seat of government to Boston. It was at Salem that Endicott, in his Puri- tanical zeal, cut the cross from the British flag with his sword. At first known by the Indian name, Naumkeag, the town later received the Scriptural name of Salem, meaning "Peace." Though not at first a religious settlement, the rigors of Puritanism soon crept in; in 1631 Philip Radcliffe, after having a scourging and his ears clipped off, was banished and his property confiscated, "for blasphemy against the church of Salem, the mother-church of all this Holy Land!" 642 SALEM The record adds, "And thus wee doubt not that God will be with us, and if God be with us, who can be against us? " It was not until 1692 that the epidemic of witchcraft, which so un- justly made Salem infamous, reached here. The earliest instances of witchcraft in New England occurred half a century before this on the Connecticut coast (p 90), and in the succeeding decades flourished all through that section (p 116). There had also been executions for witchcraft in Plymouth, Charlestown, and Boston before those in Salem. But Salem has had repeated chroniclers, from Cotton Mather's "Wonders of the Invisible World" to Longfellow's "New England Tragedies," with the result that in the popular mind witches and Salem are inseparable. In fact witchcraft came late to Salem and lasted a very short time, but in that period twenty suffered death and many others were tortured. The notoriety that came upon the town is not due only to the cruelty practiced then, for the Quakers had been treated before this with even great rigor. In 1658 Margaret, the wife of John Smith, a freeman and member of the Salem church, became a Quaker; although feeble in health she was cast into prison and con- demned to ten stripes in the snow-covered market place. The witchcraft excitement began in 1692 at that rustic suburb, Salem Village, now Danvers. Ten girls, from nine to seventeen years old, met in the house of one Samuel Parris, a minister, to learn palm- istry and "magic tricks" from an Indian slave woman, Tituba by name. Naturally witchcraft was discussed; before long they accused Tituba and two unfortunate old women of bewitching them. The hysteria spread; nineteen unfortunates were hanged on Gallows Hill, a mile west of the town, and one was pressed to death. The epidemic lasted only about a year and resulted in a strong reaction in 1693 with the release of the remaining accused prisoners (p 690). One of the earliest shipmasters of Salem, and one who did most to make it a great shipping port, was Philip English, who came to Salem in 1670. By 1690 he was perhaps the richest man of the New England Colony, owning twenty-one vessels in trade with the West Indies and the ports of France. The credit of opening the Far East to American commerce is due largely to Elias H. Derby, whose courage and enter- prise led him to challenge the monopoly of the English and Dutch in this rich commerce. In 1784 he opened up the first American trade direct with Russia. In 1788 his ship "Atlantic" first displayed the American flag in the leading Asiatic ports. Between 1785 and 1799 he fitted out thirty-seven vessels for 125 voyages to foreign ports. His last venture illustrates well his daring enterprise. He equipped the "Mt. Vernon" with twenty guns and fifty men after hostilities between France and the United States had broken out, and sent her to the Mediterranean with a $43,000 cargo of sugar. Attacking French cruis- ers were driven off, port was made, and the sugar exchanged for silks and wine at a net profit of $100,000. Derby left an estate of $1,500,000, the largest fortune then accumulated in the nation. Joseph Peabody, another Salem sea-magnate, at the beginning of the eighteenth cen- tury owned eighty-three ships, shipped 7000 seamen and promoted forty-five cabin boys to captains. The English navigation laws struck Salem hard; not only were the rich merchants endangered in trade, but the whole community had thus invested their savings. Ways were found to evade the laws. A newspaper account of 1786 tells how one Row, a Custom House boatman or "tide-waiter" who had given information of such evasion, "was taken from one of the wharves and conducted to the Common where his head, body, and limbs were covered with warm tar, and then a large quantity of feathers were applied to all parts, which, by closely adhering to the tar, exhibited an odd figure, the drollery of which can easily be imagined. The poor R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 643 waiter was then exalted to a seat on the front of the cart and in this manner led into the Main Street, where a paper with the word 'In- former' thereon, in large letters, was affixed to his breast, and another paper with the same word to his back." When the Boston Port Bill closed the Port of Boston, Salem became the seat of government. Here the first Provincial Congress of Massa- chusetts met and on Feb. 26, 1775, at the North Bridge, the first armed resistance was offered to royal troops, sent to find cannon hidden in the North Fields, and held in check at this point by the townspeople. By the close of the Revolution Salem's 158 armed vessels with their 2000 guns had taken 445 prizes, losing but fifty-one of their own num- ber. In 1794 the community owned 160 vessels; by 1805 this number had increased to 230. At this time cargoes frequently realized 800 per cent. The embargo of 1807 and the ensuing seizures by Britain and France effectually ruined this source of profit. In the War of 1812 Salem sent forth forty privateers and built the famous frigate "Essex" which under the command of David Porter swept the Pacific clean of British commerce and met a glorious end in her battle off the coast of Chile. Yet Salem commerce never re- covered, though all through the first half of the nineteenth century Salem-owned ships from the Far East still unloaded at her wharves. In the great fire of 1914, 407 places of business were destroyed, 2718 families rendered homeless, and $738,000 subscribed by outsiders. The district, mainly the manufacturing and tenement district, has been largely rebuilt in a somewhat improved manner. Route 37 (p 690) leads through Danvers to Lawrence. From Salem the route crosses the Beverly, or Essex, Bridge over the mouth of the estuary known as Danvers River. This short cut to the north from Boston, built in 1787, was regarded as a triumph of engineering so great that when Washington came this way on his tour in 1789 and visited the Hon. George Cabot he paused to inspect and praise so remarkable a struc- ture. The view upstream, to the left, includes a part of the town of Danvers and the State Insane Asylum on Hathorne Hill. To the right is Beverly Harbor, with Salem Willows to the south, and to the north the villas of the Beverly Farms and Manchester regions on the southern coast of Cape Ann. For direct continuation of the route see p 649. Detour to Cape Ann; via Prides Crossing and Manchester to Gloucester, Rockport, and Essex to Ipswich. 41.5 m. Since early Colonial days this rugged coast from Boston to Cape Ann has been called The North Shore. From Beverly to Gloucester it is lined with magnificent estates. After crossing the old Essex Bridge into Beverly (p 649) the route bears right and then left on Cabot St., then right by the South Church on Hale St. on which many of the largest estates border, facing Woodburys Point and Beverly Cove. Paramatta, a part of the Henry W. Peabody estate, where Mr. Taft spent the latter summers of his Presidency is now an inn. On Ober St. off Hale to the right are the estates of Mrs. Robert D. Evans and A. Shuman. At Woodberry and 644 SALEM MANCHESTER Ober Sts. lived Captain Thomas Lothrop, who commanded the military company "Flower of Essex" when it was anni- hilated at Bloody Brook, Deerfield, in 1675 (p 317). George Edward Woodbury, poet and critic, a member of the old Beverly family, resides at the corner of Dane and Essex Sts. Near Burgess Point is the Robert D. Evans residence with its lovely Italian gardens that cost $100,000 or more, constructed on the site of the Evans house occupied by President Taft and now at Marblehead (p 636). Here begins the ' exclusive zone.' At Chapman's Corner the route curves to the right through a stretch of wooded estates. Left on Boyle St. is the Montserrat Golf Club. The early settlers thought this region bewitched, and it is still known as the Witch Woods. Wood's "New England Prospect" says, "Some, being lost in the woods, have heard such terrible roarings as have made them aghast; which might be either devils or lions; there being no other creatures which use to roar, saving bears, which have not such a terrible kind of roaring." On Prince St., to the right, just beyond Chapman's Corner, is the Mason House, during 1915 the summer home of the British Embassy. Soon the road reaches the shore at Mingo Beach, named for Robin Mingo, Thomas Woodbury's negro slave, whose hut stood on the adjoining upland. He obtained consent from his master to marry a squaw on condition that she serve the master until his death, and then be dismissed with a suit of clothes suitable to her rank. The only issue was a daughter named Ginger. Henry Clay Frick owns and occupies Eagle Rock, 453 Hale St., the greater part of the year. A lion's head fountain in the stone wall between hammered iron fencing faces the beautiful estate. The handsome residences throughout this section are in every style from the English manor to the French chateau or the Italian villa and are the product of Pittsburgh, New York, and Boston esthetic competition. PRIDES CROSSING (3.5). The private entrance opposite the station leads to the lordly estates of Judge Wm. H. Moore, the late Mrs. E. C. Swift, Robert Treat Paine, Francis Lee Higgin- son, Frederick C. Ayer, of Sarsaparilla origins, R. S. Bradley, Washington B. Thomas, head of the Sugar Trust, and other plutocrats. Ex-senator Beveridge has recently acquired Sel- wood, the McKee place, not far beyond. The route still follows Hale St. through a charming country. BEVERLY FARMS (4.5) is the easternmost part of Beverly. The Italian Embassy is at Pitch Pine Hall on Valley St., for- merly occupied by Philander C. Knox and also by John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Justice Oliver Wendell Holmes of the U.S. Supreme Court is also a summer resident. R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 645 Just beyond Beverly Farms Station the route passes the old home of Oliver Wendell Holmes, to which he applied the title of " Beverly-by-the-Depot " as a sly dig at Manchester- by-the-Sea. Passing West Beach, half a mile further on, the road recrosses R.R. and leads inland but still eastward. At West Manchester, by the shore, is The Rocks, Eben D. Jor- dan's summer place. 7.0 MANCHESTER. Pop (twp) 2673 (1910), 2945 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1626. Mfg. leather and furniture. This is one of the principal resorts of North Shore fashion. Its common appellation, Manchester-by-the-Sea, originated with the late Mrs. James T. Fields to distinguish it from Manchester, N.H. The Memorial Library, given by the Hon. T. Jefferson Coolidge, is on the road to the right beyond the Town Hall. It contains some old wood carvings of interest. The Fields were formerly the leading summer residents, with R. H. Dana, Jr., the author of "Two Years before the Mast." James T. Fields' prominence not only as a publisher, but as a litterateur, brought many intellectual leaders to the red-roofed gambrel house still crown- ing the bald brow of Thunderbolt Hill, the promontory that shelters the little harbor from the southeasterly winds. Here, too, in later years Sarah Orne Jewett and Louise Imogen Guiney often visited Mrs. Fields. Of the earlier days Bayard Taylor, Fields' guest, writes: "On the edge of a lofty bluff stood the gray old mansion of the venerable poet, Richard H. Dana. The place is singularly wild, lonely, and picturesque. No other dwelling is visible. A little bight of the coast thrusts out its iron headlands at a short distance on either side; the surf thunders incessantly below; and in front the open ocean stretches to the sky. Mr. Dana's only neighbors are the vessels that come and go at greater or less distances." Beach Street, which leads past the foot of this bluff, also leads to the Singing Beach, so called because of the whimpering squeak which its sharp quartz sand emits when trodden upon. Even the singing of the sand stirred by the waves can be heard with the aid of a vivid imagination. The route leaves the town by Sea St., turning left on Summer St., the Gloucester road, opposite the old burying ground of 1 66 1. On the left of Summer St. are the grounds of the Essex Country Club, whose new club house and wellknown links are among the best on the coast. Ocean Street, on the right, leads to Kettle Cove and Coolidge's Point. The latter is named for the family of T. Jefferson Coolidge, former Ambas- sador to England. The splendid Georgian house of the late T. J. Coolidge, Jr., is conspicuous. The direct route leads straight on to Gloucester (p 646). Note. A shore road leads by way of Raymond St. on the right, just beyond, to MAGNOLIA (3.5), "the Newport of Mas- sachusetts," characterized by great social activity, like its 646 MANCHESTER GLOUCESTER westerly neighbors. Its name, once Old Kettle Cove, is now to be derived from the richly scented and rare magnolia glauca, native to the swamps hereabouts, where few but the urchin flower-peddlers can find it. In this seaside village was The Hulk, William Morris Hunt's studio in a loft, only to be reached by a ladder which the peace-seeking artist hauled up after him. Hunt's memory deserves public perpetuation as the first to make America acquainted with the modern French landscape school and also as one of the early friends and sup- porters of Millet. Not far off shore is Norman's Woe, the treacherous reef of Longfellow's "Wreck of the Hesperus." "And fast through the midnight dark and drear, Through the whistling sleet and snow, Like a sheeted ghost, the vessel swept Towards the Reef of Norman's Woe." In the rocky shore is Rafe's Chasm, a fissure in which the sea roars and gurgles. A mile and a half across the water is Eastern Point, the outer arm of Gloucester Harbor. To the left are the home of John Hays Hammond and the steel wire- less towers at the laboratory of John Hays Hammond, Jr., whose inventions, the wireless-controlled boat and torpedo and the thermos incendiary bomb, have placed him among the foremost inventors of the age of Armageddon. 14.0 GLOUCESTER. Pop 24,398 (1910), 24,478 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1623. Indian name Wyngaersheek. Port of Entry. Mfg. dried fish, glue, boats, nets, and twine; fish and granite. Value of Product (1913), $8,211,000; Payroll, $1,245,000. Daily steamboat to Boston. America's second fishing port and the easternmost city of Massachusetts, Gloucester is even more significant to the traveler as a quaint, oldfashioned town with unlimited oppor- tunities for the holiday pleasures of sea and shore. On the tip of the cape, with the marshy estuary of Squam River cutting through from Gloucester Harbor to Annisquam Harbor, Gloucester and Rockport are really an island, whose edge is fringed with villages and summer houses and whose heart is the stony wilderness of Dog Town Common, now only visited by geologists to study its remarkable terminal moraine. Yet here is a dead village, like Goldsmith's "Sweet Auburn," with the roads and walls of early settlers. Gloucester people, with their surroundings, and especially the fishermen's hard yet romantic life, have inspired more than one author. Rudyard Kipling sailed to the Banks in a Gloucester schooner and produced "Captains Courageous," execrated by local mariners on technical grounds, yet strong in sea pictures. James B. Connolly's "Out of Gloucester" and other tales of fishermen are almost as wellknown. R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 647 On Middle St. is the church of the Independent Christian Society, erected 1804, the first Universalist congregation in America (1770). It has an old organ, the booty of a privateer in the Revolution, which is played by turning a crank. At least ten houses on this street were built before the Revolu- tionary War, among them the dwelling erected by the Rev. John Rogers about 1775, No. 64, and directly opposite, No. 51, that of the Rev. Samuel Chandler, built about 1752. Just to the westward (No. 47) is the oddly shaped house owned by Mrs. Delia F. French. Built before the Revolution, its ex- terior and interior remain unchanged. It was built by Win- throp Sargent for his daughter Judith, later wife of Rev. John Murray, ' Father of American Universalism.' This is one of the finest Colonial interiors in Massachusetts. The wood carvings were brought from England. The building now occupied by the Sawyer Free Library, corner of Dale Ave. and Middle St., was erected in 1764 and has been changed but little since. The Riggs house, built in 1658 by Thomas Riggs, the first school master, is situated on a side road off Washington St. Many older houses in this vicinity are the story-and-a- half style, because a two-story house was taxed more. Across the harbor is Eastern Point, a huge natural break- water against the Atlantic's eastern gales. An artist colony as well as several hotels is located here for the sake of the splendid cliff and crag landscape and the clean, bracing breezes. A fishing station was founded here in 1623, although visited in 1605 by Champlain, who called the harbor "Le beau port." Captain John Smith, that prince of explorers, hero, and romancer, gave the name to this promontory of "Tragabizanda" in memory of the fair Moslem to whom, according to his tale, he owed a debt of gratitude. Milk, Thachers, and Straitsmouth Islands, lying off its extreme point, he called the "Three Turk's Heads" to commemorate the three he had cut off with his doughty sword in his escape from Turkish captivity. The name Cape Ann was later bestowed in honor of Anne of Denmark, mother of Charles I. The first vessel of the schooner type was launched here about 1714. It is related that a boy watching her trial trip and marveling at her speed, cried, "See how she schoons!" "A schooner let her be!" said the builder standing by. In 1775 the town was bombarded by the British sloop-of-war "Falcon" but without much damage. On this occasion Captain Joseph Rogers and his minute men, aided by Colonel Joseph Foster, met the enemy and captured four boats, a small tender, a prize schooner, and forty men, and compelled the "Falcon" to withdraw, each side losing two men. At the beginning of the Revolution Gloucester was second to Marble- head as a fishing port, but the war nearly extinguished this industry. About 1850 the fisheries began to revive; by 1860 they had again become the principal industry; and since that time the city has changed from a quaint New England village to a fairly modern city, although still retaining much of its oldfashioned picturesqueness, and "an ancient and fish-like smell" which still pervades the streets when the wind blows across from the fish sheds. Between 1830 and igo? over 5000 648 GLOUCESTER BEVERLY lives and 700 vessels were lost in the industry. The proportion of losses has been greatly reduced in the last few years by the use of abler vessels with auxiliary motors and by modern methods of fishing. To this day an annual service is held at the water's edge in memory of those lost at sea, and flowers are cast on the ebbing tide. Leaving Gloucester the route continues north on Middle St. into Pleasant St., bearing left along Prospect St. to Main St. At the fork the route turns left on Eastern Ave., following the car tracks to the square and then right on Broadway into 19.0 ROCKPORT. Pop (twp) 4211 (1910), 4351 (1915). Essex Co. Inc. 1840. Mfg. granite. The little town has several old houses of interest. The Congregational Church, on Main St., preserves the cannon ball which struck its steeple during the bombardment by the British frigate "Nymph" in 1812. The mark is indicattd by a fac-simile ball, painted black. The surrounding country is pleasantly diversified by woods, cliffs, and beaches. A bit of Rockport which seems like some foreign land dropped down in its midst is Forest St., a little Finnish settlement, which has its own church, stores, and a library containing about 600 volumes in the Finnish language. Sandy Bay, formed by Straitsmouth Point on the south and Andrew's Point on the north, is to become a National Harbor of Refuge, one of the greatest in the world. The Government is building a two-mile breakwater which will enclose 1664 acres to accommodate ships of the greatest draft. Its ease of access promises much for its future; it is already a favorite stopping place for the Atlantic Squadron. On Thachers Island, which lies southward off Emersons Point, are the twin lighthouses, a third of a mile apart. The island received its name from Anthony Thacher of Yarmouth, who in 1635 sailed from Newburyport for Marblehead with his wife and five chil- dren. The ship was wrecked in a terrible storm and the five children were lost. An account of his shipwreck written by Anthony to his brother Peter was printed in Mather's "Remarkable Providences," and the storm is also mentioned in Winthrop's Journal, 1635, as the awful tempest of that time which has become historic. Whittier, who missed few incidents in New England history, based his poem "The Swan Song of Parson Avery" upon this event. Leaving Rockport, or the South Village, the road follows the trolley to Pigeon Cove, sometimes called the 'North Village,' passing over the stone bridge from the granite quarries to the Rockport Granite Company's wharves. Cutting across the headland of Halibut Point and leaving the hamlet of Ocean *View on the right, the road meets the northern shore at Folly Cove, a lonesome, grim little bay with Folly Point and its fisher huts on the northern border. There are beautiful views of Ipswich Bay, including the distant New Hampshire coast and the Isles of Shoals. R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 649 The route leads through the villages of Lanesville (22.5) and Bay View (24.0) to ANNISQUAM (24.5), a spot favored by artists. The Riggs house, built in 1660 and said to be the oldest on the cape, is on Vine St. The Babson house with its gambrel roof, built in 1740, contains much antique furniture; under the gables are the old slave pens, worth inspection. The old Dennison house on Revere St. is much visited; erected by George Dennison in 1727, it still has its original shape and appearance and is occupied by one of his descend- ants. The Ellery house, built in 1710, is in the style of the oldfashioned blockhouse with projecting upper story and long slanting roof; the slave pen is still to be seen. The route leads across Goose Cove and past the marshes of the Squam and the Mill rivers to Gloucester (29.0), where it leaves the city by Middle St. and Western Ave. Passing through WEST GLOUCESTER (32.0) on Little River, the road traverses a broken wooded country to 36.0 ESSEX. Pop (twp) 1621 (1910), 1677 (1915). Inc. 1819. Indian name Chebacco. Mfg. sporting goods and ships. Essex is a well-kept, attractive village surrounded by a num- ber of beautiful estates. A part of the town is occupied by the Chebaco Woods, a lovely forest tract on the shores of the lake. It is intersected by winding wood-drives and paths, which are in high favor with horseback riders. Most of the drives are closed to automobilists. For many years this was a busy shipbuilding town and many fishing craft are still built here for Gloucester and Boston. With the exception of Bath, Me., Essex is the only town where this occupation has continued from Revolutionary days as the leading source of income. In the meeting house hangs a bell cast by Paul Revere; it is still in use and is on view to those who will clamber up the dim old staircase in the tower. John Wise, pastor here in Colonial days, was perhaps the first to enunciate the doctrine that taxa- tion without representation was tyranny. He persuaded the town officers not to pay the tax imposed by Governor Andros, and was therefore thrown into jail. Essex was the birthplace of Rufus Choate, one of the greatest of American lawyers. The route follows the trolley past the meeting house and at the three corners beyond bears right on Northern Ave. to Ipswich (41.5; p 653). 25.5 BEVERLY. Pop 18,650 (1910), 22,959 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1626. Mfg. shoe machinery and shoes; mineral oils and fish. Value of Product (1913), $7,536,000; Payroll, $3,667,000. Beverly, 'The Yankee Sorrento,' at the base of Cape Ann, 650 BEVERLY is the portal of the famous summer colonies on a large section of the North Shore. It is the seat of the United Shoe Machin- ery Company's plant, and is a port for the distribution of petro- leum products. The direct route through the city, Rantoul St., passes through the manufacturing district. This can be avoided by turning to the right after crossing the Essex Bridge from Salem and following Lothrop and Cabot Sts. Beverly contains many old houses and historic sites. At Leache's Tavern, at the corner of Cabot and Front Sts., the proprietors of the Essex Bridge used to meet. 88 Cabot St. was built by Joshua Fisher, M.D. While surgeon of a pri- vateer he was captured, escaped to France, returned home and became interested in the first cotton factory. He later en- dowed the Fisher Professorship of natural history at Harvard College. The house at Cabot and Central Sts., built by John Cabot about 1594, is now the home of the Beverly Historical Society. Nearly opposite, in the house built by the Hon. George Cabot, Washington took breakfast in 1769. At Cabot and Judson Sts. lived Deacon John Lowe, who was impressed and served for seven years on board a British brig until badly wounded in a naval action. Wilson Flagg, the naturalist, born on Cabot St., wrote several popular volumes on the woods and birds of New England. Lucy Larcom was born at 13 Wallis St. For the Beverly Cove section see p 643. By the North Beverly Hose-House on Rantoul St. is a tablet erected on the site of America's first cotton mill. The Post Office, on Rantoul St., opposite the R.R. station, and the Public Library, on Essex St., are the best public buildings. Beverly is one of the principal distributing points for Texas oil; a line of tank steamers is operated between this port and Port Arthur, Texas. Market-gardening is a thriving industry in this locality, and greenhouses and cold frames are con- spicuous. Cod-fishing is another source of income. The first settler of Beverly, then called "the Cape Ann side," was Roger Conant, who emigrated from England to Plymouth in 1623. Conant became the first promoter in the British colonies. After in- vestigating the business possibilities of Plymouth, Nantasket, and Cape Ann, he removed to Salem in 1626, locating pemanently in Bev- erly a few years later. His active commercial spirit made him the first man of affairs in the Massachusetts Bay Colony and the ablest promoter of fisheries and agriculture. His house probably stood on the east side of Cabot St., near Balch St., on an Indian road leading from the sea to Wenham Lake by way of Bass River. Nathan Dane, cpdifier of American law soon after the Revolution, is another celeb- rity of Beverly. Beverly was incorporated in 1668 because there was no bridge over the river; the inhabitants found crossing the ice in the winter so dangerous that they built a church of their own and became an inde- pendent community. From farmers they became fishermen and then manufacturers. In 1788 the first cotton mill in America was built R 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 651 here and soon afterward shoemaking became a leading industry. No other city of 20,000 in this country has so large a valuation: $42,000,000. It has never had a liquor license and spends much for improvements. On leaving Beverly the route passes the old Balch house at Balch and Cabot Sts., built about 1638 by John Balch; and the United Shoe Machinery Company's plant occupying nearly 300 acres. It earns more than $5,000,000 annual net profit THE BALCH HOUSE, BEVERLY, BUILT ABOUT 1638 and employs from 4000 to 5000 pers ons. Its products are leased and the business is practically a monopoly. An ar- rangement with the Beverly School Board provides industrial training in connection with the high school. The buildings are the latest achievement in scientific factory construction. By the road is the estate of its president, S. W. Winslow. The route follows the blue markers inland across the base of Cape Ann through a region of great estates. Two miles beyond Beverly the road skirts Wenham Lake, once famed through the world. Fifty years ago and more, Wenham Lake ice was known in the Antipodes; Calcutta especially relied upon this little body of water for its refrigeration. Thackeray, Kipling, and others refer to the ice as a matter of course. An enterprising Englishman bought a lake in Norway and renamed it Wenham Lake to promote the sale of its ice. A boulder monument by the roadside marks the spot where 652 BEVERLY IPSWICH the Rev. Hugh Peters of Salem preached the first sermon after the settlement was founded. The text was "In Enon near to Salim, because there was much water there," and Enon remained the name of the village for some years and is still the name of a principal street. 30.0 WENHAM. Pop (twp) 1010 (1910), 1068 (1915). Settled 1636. A traveler in these parts in 1686 wrote: "Wenham is a deli- cious paradise; it abounds with rural pleasures and I would choose it above all other towns in America to dwell in." His testimony is still borne out by the number of country homes on the main street and the well-kept appearance of the neigh- borhood, due to the Village Improvement Society. Behind many older houses stand little sheds, formerly shoe shops, where the families worked at binding shoes. The Timothy Pickering house (1650) was built by Richard Goldsmith, a settler, and later occupied by Colonel Pickering, a notable personage of the early nineteenth century. Hamilton- Wenham is the railroad station, one of the few hyphenated stops in America. At the further end of the village the route crosses R.R., following the blue markers to 32.0 HAMILTON. Pop (twp) 1749 (1910), 1879 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1623. Hamilton was named in honor of Alexander Hamilton. 'Gail Hamilton,' Mary Abigail Dodge, the keen-penned author and for many years a newspaper correspondent in Washington, was born at the "Dodge Place," on the slope just outside the village, in 1838, taking her characteristic pen-name from the town. She was one of the first newspaper women in this country and a popular writer. Her last work was a life of James G. Elaine, who married her cousin. In the old church and parsonage beside it preached and lived Manasseh Cutler, one of the most interesting characters of New England. Politician, preacher, and physician, his activ- ities were almost limitless. He was one of the promoters of the company -that settled the Northwest Territory and lob- bied through the legislation that kept slavery out of it. To the east are the grounds of the Myopia Hunt Club, which with the Essex Country Club (p 645) is the center of an exclu- sive social life. This was first established on the heights above Mystic Lake, in Winchester (p 602), some thirty years ago. The name "Myopia" was adopted in whimsical reference to the myopic tendencies of some of its members. In 1894 increase of wealth and need of larger grounds forced the club to move its headquarters to its present location. The club house, in keeping with its environment, is a remodeled homestead of 1772, with but little suggestion, from a distance at least, of the perfection R. 36 i. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 653 of equipment characteristic of the links, polo grounds, and other fea- tures. Polo has since 1888 been a popular sport with Myopians, and the matches are among the events of the North Shore season. The Hunt, owing to the lack of suitable conditions for the pursuit of Rey- nard himself, is customarily a 'drag,' and the scent is laid on with anise. However, there is many a splendid run after the hounds over this rolling country, with no lack of thoroughbred horses and riders. The kennels are justly famous. The club has the finest eighteen-hole golf course on this side of the Atlantic, and many tournaments are held here. The past few years have seen numerous additions and altera- tions in the club house, which attest its growing popularity. Among the residents of Hamilton is George von L. Meyer, Ex-secretary of the Navy and former Ambassador to Italy and Russia, whose house, a terra cotta residence, with an Italian garden, is to the left just beyond the church. Rodolphe Agassiz, of the wellknown family of scientists and capitalists, enriched by the Calumet & Hecla developments, lives on County Road at The Kennels. The restored Colonial house opposite the church is the home of Nathan Matthews, a former Mayor of Boston. Beyond Hamilton the route, with blue markers, passes many large residential estates. Among them are the follow- ing: George F. Barnard's on County Road; James H. Proctor's and F. P. Frazier's, on Fellows Road; Frank R. Appleton's, "Appleton Farms"; and H. W. Mason's, Heartbreak Row. A mile out from the village is an ancient milestone, on the left. Appleton's Bridge across Miles River bears an inscription telling of its construction. On the culvert over a brook just outside Ipswich is the inscription: "This road, from Rowley to Salem, was laid out in the year 1640 by order of the General Court. It was then known as the Bay Road, and was the first road thus authorized." 36.5 IPSWICH. Pop (twp) 5777 (1910), 6272 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1623. Indian name Agawam, "meadow." Mfg. hosiery, shoes, and isinglass. Motorboats to all points on the Ipswich river, Castle Neck, and Plum Island. This ancient town on the Ipswich river, overlooking the Ipswich marshes, lies nestled between the drumlins of Town Hill and Heartbreak Hill. An ancient village with some fine old houses, modern industry has brought in a considerable foreign factory-element, so today the old and new rub elbows. On the elm-shaded streets one sees Greeks, Poles, and Portu- guese as frequently as native-born Americans; and a fine old New England dwelling has been turned into a Greek coffee- house. A few years ago conditions in the hosiery mills led to a prolonged strike and made the town a center of I. W. W. activities. Yet the newcomers, as a whole, feel a local pride in the place and its historical features. At the further end of South Green, at the entrance to the 654 IPSWICH town, a square stone monument,' erected by the Historical Society, states among other things that Ezekiel Cheever was the first master in the little school nearby. Beside the old church is the beautiful old house of the late John Heard, one of the town's benefactors. The road to the left crosses, near the center of the town, the old stone bridge which was built by town and county in 1764 and is known as the Choate Bridge. Above it is the Upper river, a fresh- water stream, with good canoeing and fishing. Below is the Lower river, an estuary where motorboats wait for passengers for all points on the Ipswich river, Castle Neck River, Plum Island, and the pleasant route along Plum Island Sound to Newburyport. Plum Island is worth a visit; among other features, besides the remarkable sand dunes, is an unusual sun-dial with three faces and three gnomons, one to the east and one to the west as well as the more normal southern face. The 1916 military camp for schoolboys is located here. Meeting House Green has always been the social center of the town. Here stood the first meeting house, and here, as in all New England towns, the implements of law and order, the stocks and the whipping post, were early erected. Several public buildings now face the Green, including the Public Library, the gift of Augustine Heard. Also facing the Green are THE \\HIPPLE HOUSE the buildings once occupied by the Ipswich Female Semi- nary, where Mary Lyon, one of the first of New England's great women educators, taught (1828-34) and worked out her plans for Mount Holyoke Seminary. The Whipple house (1650), directly opposite the R.R. station, is the oldest building in Ipswich and has been care- fully restored as the home of the Historical Society. It con- tains a fine collection of Colonial antiques and has conse- quently been called "the Hotel Cluny of a New England Vil- lage." The "hall," a combined kitchen and living room, completely furnished in oldtime fashion, is especially inter- esting. The Ross Tavern (1734) stands under a great elm on South Main St., and the Swasey house, where Washington stopped, though greatly altered, is on County St. Argilla Road runs from the right of South Green to the beach. On the right is Heartbreak Hill, so named, according R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 655 to the ancient legend preserved in Celia Thaxter's poem, because an Indian maiden died of grief on its summit while watching for her lover, a white sailor drowned at sea; other authority more practically derives the name from Hard Brick Hill, on an old map of the region. Along this road are the summer homes of several Boston physicians; near the beach is quite a colony of artists, including Theodore Wendell, the landscape painter, Arthur Shurtleff, the landscape architect, F. H. Richardson, and Arthur W. Dow. At the extreme end of the road on a high hill commanding a magnificent view is the home of R. T. Crane, Jr., of Chicago. Mr. Crane has recently given the town funds for a hospital in memory of his friend, George Cable of Chicago, who was killed in a motor accident in Ipswich in the fall of 1915. The beach, commonly known as Castle Neck, is now largely owned by Mr. Crane. Geologists say that the sand here was washed along the bottom of the ocean from the Isles of Shoals. It is ex- tremely white and fine, and large quantities are carried to vari- ous cities for use in cleaning stone buildings. The rounded drumlins along the coast, isolated from the mainland by great stretches of salt marsh, were formerly called 'Ipswich Hun- dreds.' In the opinion of the late Professor Shaler, Harvard's eminent geologist, the spectacle seen from these neighboring hilltops of the monthly tides rising over the meadows and trans- forming them from green grass to blue waters was a more im- pressive sight than Niagara. John Winthrop, Jr., who later founded New London, Conn., profited by the demoralization of the Agawam Indians in 1632 and bought their principal village for $100, establishing a settlement the follow- ing year with the primary object of keeping out the French. The Rev. Nathaniel Ward, a minister of the town (d. 1652), compiled the "Body of Liberties," the first Code of Laws in the Bay Colony, and at the age of seventy-five published "The Simple Cobler of Agawam in America, Willing to help Mend his Native Country, lament- ably tattered, both in the upper-leather and sole, with all the honest stitches he can take." The quaint title-page bears also: "In rebus arduis ac tenui spe, fortissima quaeque consilia tutissima sunt. Cic." In English " When boots and shoes are torn up to the lefts, Cobblers must thrust their awles up to the hefts." "This is no time to fear Appelles gramm: Ne Sutor quidem ultra crepidam." The book was a religious diatribe with a few more worldly passages, of which the following is a fair example: "I honour the Woman that can honour herself with her attire: a good Text always deserves a fair Margent; I am not much offended if I see a trimme far trimmer than she that wears it: in a word, what- ever Christianity or Civility will allow, I can afford with London measure: but when I hear a nugiperous Gentledame inquire what dress the Queen is in this week: what the nudiustertian fashion of the 656 IPSWICH NEWBURY Court; with egge to be in it in all haste, what ever it be; I look at her as the very gizzard of a trifle, the product of a quarter of a cypher, the epitome of Nothing, fitter to be kickt, if she were of a kickable sub- stance, than either honour'd or humour'd." Leaving Ipswich the road hugs the base of Town Hill (160 ft), the largest of the drumlins in the neighborhood. G. F. Swain, professor of civil engineering at M. I. T., has a summer home on Spring St., near Town Hill, on the righthand side of the road. Ahead are Muzzy and Prospect Hills; to the west is Hunsley Hill (280 ft), a double drumlin dominating the whole region. Oceanward the gleaming dunes of Plum Island stretch for miles on the far side of the Ipswich and Rowley marshes. 40.0 ROWLEY. Pop (twp) 1368 (1910), 1481 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1639. Mjg. shoes, shoe stock, belting. This straggling little town with its numerous old houses along the marshes was settled from Newbury in 1639 with other settlers led here by Ezekiel Rogers, once rector of Rowley in Yorkshire, England, who had emigrated because of his Puritan leanings. Upon his death in 1660 he left his library to Har- vard College and his estate to the Rowley church. These English immigrants manufactured the first cloth made in America, bringing the art of weaving from Yorkshire. Their fulling mill (1643) was the first of its kind in the country. Beyond Rowley the road follows the blue markers across the marsh and the Parker river. 47.0 NEWBURY. Pop (twp) 1482 (1910), 1590 (1915). Essex Co. Settled 1634. Mfg. snuff and woolens. Oldtown Hill (200 ft), a landmark wellknown to coastwise shipping, is the highest land on the coast between Mt. Aga- menticus in Maine and the Great Blue Hill. On the Lower Green is a monument commemorating the landing of the little band of Puritan exiles in 1635 under the leadership of the Reverend Thomas Parker, for whom the stream which flows under the bridge here is named. The Indian name, Quascacunquen, "waterfall," refers to the little cascade whose power was used by the settlers a few miles upstream in what is now Byfield (p 626). Newbury Old Town, spread along the road from the river to New- buryport, was named in honor of the Rev. Thomas Parker, a native of Newbury, England. The settlers reached Boston in 1634, came thence to Ipswich in the spring, and finally selected this site for the sake of its rich meadows, sheltered fishing grounds, and the protection from sudden Indian attack afforded by keeping watch from Old Town Hill. The land was carefully parceled out, cattle imported from Hol- land, and the development of the rich farmland was so well managed that many of the original allotments are held to this day by descend- ants of the pioneers. When certain emigrants complained of the hardships of pioneer life, Judge Samuel Sewall made the following autocratic rejoinder: R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 657 "As long as Plum Island shall faithfully keep the commanded Port; Notwithstanding the hectoring words and hard Blows of the proud and boisterous Ocean; As long as any Salmon or Sturgeon shall swim in the streams of Merrimack; or any Perch or Pickeril in Crane Pond. ... As long as any cattle shall be fed with the Grass growing in the Meadows, which do humbly bow themselves before Turkic Hill; As long as any Sheep shall walk upon Old-Town Hills, and shall from thence look down upon the River Parker, and the fruit- ful marshes lying beneath. ... As long as Nature shall not grow Old and dote; but shall constantly remember to give the rows of Indian Corn their education, by Pairs; so long shall Christians be born there; and being first made meet, shall from thence be transplanted to be made Partakers on the Inheritance of the Saints of Light. Now seeing the inhabitants of Newbury, and of New England, upon the due observance of their Tenure, May expect that their Rich and Gracious LORD will continue and confirm them in the Possession of these inval- uable Privileges." On rounding Old Town Hill, following the blue markers on High St., the mouth of the Merrimack river comes into sight with the summer cottages of Plum Island in the foreground. Nicholas Noyes, whose "duty" led him to take an active part in the witchcraft delusion, William Dummer, Governor of the State for five years and founder of Dummer Academy, John Lowell, a statesman, Benjamin Hale, a noted educator of the early nineteenth century, and Leonard Wood, President of Bowdoin College for twenty-seven years, were all born here. The Noyes house, on the left, beneath the great Newbury Elm, is probably the oldest edifice in this locality, built about 1646. Its chimney is almost twelve feet square. The Elm, just outside the front gate, planted about 1713, is one of the finest in the State and has a girth of twenty-four feet. To the left in Little's Lane, on the Spencer-Pierce place, is a building known as the "Garrison House" (1651) owing to its heavy walls, from two to three feet thick, much like a small English manor house, with arched doorways and windows and a beautiful porch. It is built in the shape of a cross, of stone and brick covered with plaster. On the Upper Green, laid out in 1642, and also known as the Trayneing Green, the expedition against Quebec under Bene- dict Arnold encamped in September, 1775. It is marked by a bronze tablet. Next the Green is the village church with a group of old houses. Beyond the church the Coffin house, bought or built by Tristram Coffin, 1643, was the home of Joshua Coffin, one of the abolitionist associates of William Lloyd Garrison, and the subject of Whittier's poem "The Schoolmaster." The original dwelling is probably the rear part of the present structure. The Swett-Ilsley house, 13 High St., was built in 1670 and for a time used as a tavern. Here was organized the Marine Society, of Revolutionary days. It is one of the finest examples of Colonial architecture in the 658 NEWBURY NEWBURYPORT country and has been secured by the Society for the Preser- vation of New England Antiquities, and is occupied on lease by the Blue Elephant Tea Room. Nearby on Toppan St. is the Jacob Toppan House of 1670, still owned by lineal de- scendants of the builder. Entering Newburyport on High St., No. 6 is the Short house, built in or about 1717, a charming vine-covered cottage with a quaint doorway. The Dole-Little house, No. 78, probably built in 1670, is a typical old New England farmhouse. Route 38 (p 694) to Amesbury, Haverhilt, and Lowell continues straight along the ridge on High St. The direct route to the New Hampshire beaches and Portsmouth leads down Winter St., or by easier grades to the left along State, Harris, and Washington Sts. across the Merrimack to East Salisbury (p 663). 48.0 NEWBURYPORT. Pop 14,949 (1910), 15,244 (1915); one fifth foreign-born. Shire town of Essex Co. Port of Entry. Mfg. shoes, silverware, cotton and woolen goods, cordage, electrical apparatus, combs and celluloid goods. Value of Product (1913), $8,597,000; Payroll, $1,873,000. Newburyport retains much that is characteristic of middle- aged New England in outward appearance as well as mode of life. Its streets and houses remain nearly as they were a hundred years ago in the heyday of its prosperity, when it had extensive ocean commerce and was one of the most impor- tant seaports of the United States. Today it is a well-preserved and self-respecting old town, proud of its past, but not wholly content to live upon its memories. There is a very consider- able diversity of industries that call for intelligence and skill. Oliver Wendell Holmes, writing half a century ago, said of Newbury- port and Portsmouth: "They both have grand old recollections to fall back upon, times when they looked forward to commercial great- ness, and when the portly gentlemen in cocked hats, who built their now decaying wharves and sent out their ships all over the world, dreamed that their fast-growing port was to be the Tyre or the Car- thage of the rich British colony. ... It is not with any thought of pity or depreciation that we speak of them as in a certain sense decayed towns; they did not fulfil their early promise of expansion, but they remain incomparably the most interesting places of their size in any of the three northernmost New England states." Newburyport lies near the mouth of the Merrimack, which here broadens into an estuary. Where formerly its water- front was lined with busy wharves and fringed with shipyards there is now little but salt marsh and mud-flat. That portion of the town bordering on the marshes is known as "Joppa." The vernacular expression "From Joppa Flats to Grasshopper Plains" for an old resident of Newbury is equivalent to the Biblical "from Dan to Beersheba." The city rises from the Merrimack to the long ridge along R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 659 which High Street runs for several miles. This ancient street, on which are the more notable houses of the town, is the glory of Newburyport. But there are many interesting relics of the past in the lower-lying portion. On Federal St., among many quaint houses of Colonial days, is the Old South Church, built in 1756, but later remodeled. It was founded by George Whitefield, the great revivalist who, at first reviled and stoned, was afterward heard by mul- titudes in the open air, since no roof could cover his audiences. In his poem on Whitefield, "The Preacher," Whittier tells us this is also his burial place : "Under the church of Federal Street, Under the tread of its Sabbath feet, Walled about by its basement stones, Lie the marvellous preacher's bones." For years these bones were exposed to the stare of the gaping and curious. A more sensitive, if less prudish, generation has protected them from the curious eye. At 9 and n School St., behind the church, is the house where Whitefield died almost in the act of preaching, as he had long desired. He reached Newburyport of a Saturday evening, tired by his labors, if not actually ill. As he was on his way to bed a throng which had gathered outside the house clamored so urgently that he consented to address them, and standing on the staircase with the candle in his hand, he preached one of his greatest sermons. He then withdrew and was found dead a few hours later. The house between the building and the church is the birth- place of William Lloyd Garrison, the great abolitionist, and dis- coverer of Whittier. He began his career here type-setting and writing, and presently set up the "Free Press" with the motto, "Our Country, Our Whole Country, and Nothing But Our Country." But soon he went to Boston and established the "Liberator." Before he left Whittier's sister sent her young brother's poem "The Exile's Departure" to Garrison, who at once printed it in his paper. Soon after he went out to Whittier's home and made the boy's acquaintance; from that day Whittier's career was assured, not only as a poet, but as a leader in the cause of freedom. In the same quaint quarter, at the corner of Middle and In- dependence Sts., is a bombshell standing on a stone post, brought back from Louisburg in 1758 by Nathaniel Knapp. The meeting house, usually known as the Unitarian Church, stands on Pleasant St. ; its spire is one of the finest in this region. The Public Library on State St. occupies the residence of Nathaniel Tracy, the wealthiest merchant of the time, built in 1771. He also owned at that time the Craigie-Longfellow house in Cambridge. Some of the rooms are preserved pre- 660 NEWBURYPORT cisely as they were when Washington stayed here in 1789 and Lafayette in 1824. Popular tradition, probably much exaggerated, tells us that so numerous were his estates that in traveling from Newburyport to Philadelphia he could stop each night under his own roof-tree! His fortune was largely made in privateering. In the Revolution he was chief owner of some twenty vessels with over 300 guns and manned by nearly 3000 men who captured vessels and cargoes that sold for $4,000,000. About half of this Mr. Tracy gave for public purposes. It was a doubtful and dangerous business, however; the end of the war found him a bankrupt, with only one of his privateersmen and few of his merchant ships afloat. The Wolfe Tavern on State St. has occupied the handsome mansion of Colonel John Peabody ever since 1814. The tavern was first opened in 1762 by a Captain Davenport and named for General Wolfe, his lamented leader in the campaign against Quebec. It was originally located at the lower end of Fish St., as State was then called, and was burned in the great fire of 1811. Many years later the old sign was unearthed and hung out at the Merrimack House. Until the time of the railway, it was a famous stopping place for Boston and Ports- mouth coaches of the Eastern Stage Company. Thirty years ago it became the Merrimack House, but a change in taste for the better, fifteen years ago, revived the old name. The Dalton Club opposite, built in 1746, was formerly the home of Tristram Dalton, merchant prince and Senator, who maintained a six-horse coach and an establishment that for luxury remains famous. At his death he left 1200 gallons of choice wines in his cellars according to legend, though he died at Boston in reduced circumstances. The Y.M.C.A. building in this vicinity was the gift of Mrs. George H. Corliss, as a memorial to her husband, the once famous steam engine in- ventor, a native of the town. The Cutler-Bartlett house (1782), 32 Green St., is one of the Wallace Nutting chain of Colonial residences. Its brick- work and the furniture are features (adm. 25 cents). On High St., near the center of the older portion of the town, is the Bartlet Mall, the gathering place of early New- buryport fashion, given the city by a descendant of one of the early merchant princes. It is said that its grading in 1800 was done by the menfolk of the town, who wielded pick and shovel while their 'better halves'" supplied refreshment. Twenty years ago it was further improved from the plans of Charles Eliot, the landscape architect. On the Mall is the Court House; opposite is the Putnam Free School, founded in 1838, and one of the earliest of New England democratic institutions. In Brown Square, off Green St., is the statue of Garrison by Daniel M. French, a native. R. 36 I. BOSTON TO NEWBURYPORT 66 T St. Paul's Church, on High St., is one of the oldest in the Episcopal diocese of Massachusetts. The first edifice on this site was built in 1738, and the present, of unusual and in- teresting architecture, dates from about 1800. The Bishop's miter on the belfry would indicate this as the Cathedral. The Old Ladies' Home on High St. occupies the fine old residence of William Wheelright (1798-1873), who left half a million dollars to provide education for the Protestant youth of his native town at the Institute of Technology. His roman- tic career is too little known. At the age of eighteen, a sailor before the mast, he became a sea-captain, and at the age of twenty-five was wrecked on the coast of South America. The first railroads of Chile and the Argentine were due to his initiative. He opened up coal mines there and established steamship connection with Europe. The Historical Society of Old Newbury (adm. 10 cents) occupies a fine old house at 164 High St., corner of Winter. Within is a valuable collection of Colonial furniture and the collection of the Newburyport Marine Society, founded in 1782. The large mansion, 201 High St., well back from the street and surmounted by a cupola with a gilded eagle and minarets topped with gilt balls, was the home of 'Lord' Timothy Dexter. It was later the property of one equally celebrated if not so eccentric, Mrs. Katherine Tingley, born in Newburyport, American head of the Universal Brotherhood and Theosophical Society, with headquarters at Point Loma, near San Diego. Lord Timothy Dexter is to Newburyport what Floyd Ireson is to Marblehead and the witches to Salem. The average person at a dis- tance, hearing the names of these towns, thinks first of these rather over-estimated celebrities. Among the stiff wooden effigies, the work of a figurehead carver of the town, with which he adorned his fence posts, were those of Bonaparte, Nelson, Washington, and Jef- ferson; but the inscriptions were frequently interchanged by the eccentric Lord. Prominent was also his own effigy, bearing his own modest estimate of himself in this inscription: "I am the first in the East, the first in the West, and the greatest philosopher of the known world." He also maintained a poet laureate who celebrated his patron's taste and virtues without restraint: "Lord Dexter is a man of fame, Most celebrated is his name; More precious far than gold that's pure, Lord Dexter live forevermore. His noble house it shines more bright Than Lebanon's most pleasant height; Never was one who stepped therein Who wanted to come out again. The images around him stand, For they were made by his command; Looking to see Lord Dexter come, With fixed eyes they see him home." He was his own press agent and kept himself as continuously in the public eye as 'Tom' Lawson does today and did not hesitate to tell 662 NEWBURYPORT how he acquired wealth or to tell others to do so. He published all this in a "Pickle for the Knowing Ones," in which he tells of his vir- tues, the secret of his success, and how he was laughed to scorn for sending warming-pans to the West Indies, but turned the laugh on his critics. The "Pickle" has a tang worth tasting: "Ime the first Lord in the younited States of A mercary Now of Newburyport it is the voise of the peopel & I cant Help it & so Let it goue Now as I must be Lord there will foler many more Lords prittey soune for it Dont hurt A Cat Nor the Mouse Nor the son Nor the water Nor the Eare then goue on all in Easey Now bons broaken all is well all in Love Now I be gin with Grat Remembrence of my father Jorge Washington the grate he row." "How Did Dexter make his money Inw ye says bying whale bone for stain for ships in grosing three houndred & 40 tuns bort all in boston salum and all in Noue york under Cover oppenly told them for my ships thay all Lafed so I had at my one prise I had four Couning men for Rouners thay souned the home as I told them to Act the fool I was foull of Cash I had Nine tun of filver on hand at that time all that time the Creaters more or Less Lafing it spread very fast heare is the Rub in fifty Days thay smelt A Rat founr where it was gone to Nouebry Port speklaters swarmed Like hell houns to be short with it I made seventey five per sent one tun and halfe of silver and over one more spect Drole A Nuf I Dreamed of warming pans three Nits that thay would doue in the west ingas I got not more than fortey two thousand put them in Nine vessele for difrent ports that tuck good holde. ... I cleared sevinty nine per sent . . . the pans thay mad yous of them for Coucking very good master for Coukey blessed good in Deade missey got Nise handed Now bourn my fase the best thing I Ever see in borne days." At the end of the second edition, to remedy the omission of punctu- ation, the author inserted a page filled entirely with the marks of punctuation for readers "to peper and sollt it as thay pleased." The Lowell-Johnson House, No. 203, next door, built in 1774, was the home of John Lowell, the father of F. C. Lowell, whose name is perpetuated in the city of Lowell; grandfather of James Russell Lowell and of John Lowell, founder of the Lowell Institute of Boston. In 1778 the house passed into the hands of the Tracy family, who here entertained the Mar- quis de Castellux, Baron Talleyrand, and other distinguished Frenchmen. The house at 244 was often visited by Whittier, and during his last years was practically his home. The Merrimack was discovered in 1605 by Champlain and De Monts who, exploring the coast, entered the river. After the dangers of Indian attack were past some of the Newbury settlers were tempted to establish themselves along the riverbank. The development of the West India trade and shipbuilding brought the 'wealth of the Indies' to the port. Intercourse with foreign lands and the wealth of the merchant princes made this a town of luxurious living, with interests and customs having little in common with Puritan austerity. This led in 1764 to the "water side" being set off from Old Newbury as a separate township. The Revolution interfered with the rapidly expanding trade of Newburyport. Her merchant princes took advantage of the oppor- tunity to convert their clippers into privateers. During the war Newburyport fitted out twenty-four such commerce destroyers, which captured over 225 prizes and over 2200 men; the cargoes sold for R. 36 2. NEWBURYPORT TO PORTSMOUTH 663 $3.5So,ooo. The sloop "Wasp" justified her name; in three months she captured thirteen merchantmen, though herself finally sunk by the enemy with colors flying. On the other hand twenty-two vessels with 1000 men during this time left the port never to be heard from again. Many of Newburyport's most valiant sailors languished dur- ing the war in the Old Mill Prison at Plymouth, England. The height of her commercial prosperity was reached in 1805 when the customs receipts were the third largest of any port in New Eng- land. Newburyport's commerce never recovered from the Embargo. The docks and riverfront were thick with idle vessels, over the top- masts tar-barrels were inverted to preserve the rigging. These were known as "Madison's nightcaps." The great fire of 1811, destroying sixteen acres in the heart of the town, was still further a disaster at this critical time. Yet for nearly half a century more Newburyport clippers and packets were famous. In 1820 forty vessels that had been held by contrary winds in the port put to sea in one day. Some of the most famous of the clipper-ships were Newburyport built and owned. The Liverpool packet "Dreadnought," known as 'The Flying Dutchman,' built in 1853, was the largest and fleetest of her time. In 1860 she is said to have crossed from Sandy Hook to Queenstown in nine days and thirteen hours. She was finally wrecked off Cape Horn in 1869. The development of steam power finally drove Newburyport commerce from the sea. The growth of manufacturing, which has kept the town alive, has not disastrously modernized it. There is still an air of comfortable conservatism. Many of the modern industries are a natural out- growth from very early beginnings; such are the Towle Manufacturing Company's silverware business, the Richardson and the Noyes com- panies' manufacture of combs, and the leather and carriage industries. R. 36 2. Newburyport to Portsmouth. 27.5 m. Via HAMPTON, RYE BEACH, and NEW CASTLE. The route is marked with blue bands on poles and posts to the New Hampshire line, then by yellow bands with black border, following the New Hampshire East Side Highway. Leaving Newburyport by Winter St. and crossing the Mer- rimack river the road leads through East Salisbury (2.5). Southward is the view of Newburyport described by Whittier: "Its windows flashing to the sky, Beneath a thousand roofs of brown, Far down the vale, my friend and I Beheld the old and quiet town; The ghostly sails that out to sea Flapped their white wings of mystery; The beaches glimmering in the sun, And the low wooded capes that run Into the sea-mist north and south; The sand-bluffs at the river's mouth; The swinging chain-bridge, and, afar, The foam-line of the harbor-bar." The main route follows the blue markers (see below). Detour to Salisbury Beach and Great Boar's Head. 8.5 m. Salisbury Beach (3.5), a popular seaside resort, was visited 664 NEWBURYPORT RYE BEACH by a disastrous fire in 1914. Much of the colony has been rebuilt and a new pavilion erected at the end of Broadway. There are but few homesteads of any age hereabout because the summer boarders of a century ago dwelt in tents which they pitched on the sands. Just such a tent was that in which Whittier, Fields, and Bayard Taylor held their "poetical picnic," celebrated in the suite of poems, "The Tent on the Beach." At the extreme southern end of the shore, by the mouth of the river, lie the picturesque ruins of an old fort, long since abandoned, from which there is a good view up the Merrimack to Newburyport. Inland are the marshes dotted with haystacks, a symphony in soft greens and browns made famous by Whittier in several of his poems. To the northeast the Isles of Shoals stand out on a clear day. Beyond the State boundary is Scab rook Beach, extending to the Hampton river, which winds through the marshes. Near its mouth, Whittier says: "When heats as of a tropic clime Burned all our inland valleys through, Three friends, the guests of summer time, Pitched their white tent where sea-winds blew." Here the tale of "The Wreck of Rivermouth" was jotted down and probably worked into its metrical form. The rocks which caused the catastrophe in 1657 are exposed at low tide outside the harbor. Beyond the longest wooden pile bridge in the world, situ- ated in three townships, is Hampton Beach (7.5), a lively sum- mer place lying on either side of Great Boar's Head (65 ft), a drumlin promontory extending a quarter mile into the sea and crowned by hotels and cottages. Just beyond the Head the detour joins the main route (8.5). From East Salisbury the main route follows the blue markers. From the New Hampshire line, marked by a stone on the left, the markers are yellow. Passing through the trolley junction at Smithtown the route enters 5.5 SEABROOK. Pop 1425. Rockingham Co. Set. 1638. Mfg. shoes. This quiet old town has long been known for its shoemakers. Many work in the factories at Newburyport, but a few still carry on their trade at home. The 'big fire' of 1914 swept away all the old houses. 8.0 HAMPTON FALLS. Pop 560. Rockingham Co. Mfg. vine- gar and extracts. On the right, just before reaching the Post Office, is the old Wells homestead, Elmfield, where Whittier often spent a quiet day with his friends, contemplating the landscape of which he was so fond. Just past the town line, in Hampton, beneath magnificent elms is the Gove house, where he died. HAMPTON. Pop (twp) 1209. Rockingham Co. Settled 1638. Indian name Winnicummet, "beautiful place of pines." This ancient village was an outpost of the Massachusetts R. 36 2. NEWBURYPORT TO PORTSMOUTH 665 Bay Colony. A blockhouse was built in 1636. The settle- ment was long exposed to attacks by the Winnicummet Indi- ans, but the colonists were induced to remain because of the salt hay, a rich and inexpensive fodder. Half a mile beyond the village is a fine old haunted house from which the spooks were exorcised by a clergyman from Newburyport who duly locked them up in a closet. This was once the home of General Jonathan Moulton, mentioned in Whittier's poem "The New Wife and the Old," a rich landowner of these parts who, so the story goes, agreed to sell his soul to the devil for as much gold as his boots would hold. The great chimney is still pointed out as the funnel through which the money was poured into the fireplace where the appointed receptacles stood with their toes cut off, thus cheating the devil of his due. The route, following the yellow markers, turns right and at the shore (13.5) meets the detour from Salisbury Beach. LITTLE BOAR'S HEAD (15.0) is a rather quiet and retired nook as compared with its neighbors on either side. Between here and Rye Beach the route passes Fox Head Point. 16.5 RYE BEACH. Pop (Rye twp) 1014. Rockingham Co. Rye Beach is a center of popular seaside life. Summer holiday-makers from far and wide make this their playground. The Abenaqui Golf Club, eighteen holes, is one of the finest on the coast. At Straw Point, the northern end of Jenness Beach, is the station of a submarine cable from England. The road, marked by yellow bands, leads past thickly settled beaches to Odiornes Point, the site of New Hampshire's first English colony. David Thompson, with a few followers, established a' fortified trading and fishing station here in 1623, all traces of which have disappeared save the burying ground. Great Island at the mouth of the Piscataqua is in the fore- ground, and across the river is Gerrish's Island, in the State of Maine, with a conspicuous red hotel. At the fork (25.5), after joining trolley, the main route follows the yellow mark- ers direct to Portsmouth (27.5; p 666). Detour to New Castle and Portsmouth. 5.0 m. Turning right this detour crosses the bridge at the head of Little Harbor. The Hotel Wentworth stands out on a bluff to the north. It was here that the delegates to the Russo- Japanese peace conference were entertained in 1905. On the island shore is the Wentworth mansion, now the sum- mer home of J. Templeman Coolidge of Boston and formerly the residence of Francis Parkman, the historian, who spent many a vacation here working on his historical researches. The interior of the Wentworth mansion is justly celebrated for its unusual richness; the paneling, furniture, and stately tapes- try surpass the fittings of any other country house of its period. 666 RYE BEACH PORTSMOUTH Those who have been privileged to see them, speak with glow- ing enthusiasm of their splendor, which has been carefully preserved by the present owners. In the billiard room is the painting of 'Dorothy Q,' made famous by Holmes' poem. Of the Wentworths, father, son, and nephew, three of the last four royal Governors, Benning was the most autocratic, leading the society of Portsmouth in high-spirited style. He built this mansion in 1750, nine years after he became Governor. Its gables and ells, wings and apartments, all center about the great Council Chamber; in all there were fifty-two rooms, seven of which some years ago were ferried across to the Maine shore, where they are still in use. For many years the Governor had kept up the aristocratic tradition of bees-wing port and high play at cards and startled the town as never before. At the close of a banquet celebrating his sixtieth birthday, he called in coquettish Martha Hilton, his housemaid, and bade the clergyman read the marriage service then and there. When that worthy hesitated, he was commanded in the name of the law to pro- ceed. Only a few days before Martha had been a barefoot hoyden fetching water from the town pump with an abandon of manner that brought down upon her the rebuke of the more dignified neighbors, to which Martha had saucily replied that she would ride in her carriage some day and before long at that. Eleven years later he died and Martha inherited the entire estate. Soon afterward she married Colonel Wentworth, a retired army officer and cousin of the late Governor. She is the subject of Longfellow's "Lady Wentworth." 2.5 NEW CASTLE. Pop (twp) 624. Rockingham Co. At present a summer suburb of Portsmouth, New Castle was once a thriving little port where the 'mastships' of the English Navy used to load. This was in 1665, when Charles II was only just prevented from build- ing a fort here by the utmost efforts of Massachusetts; in 1603 when the Stuarts were gone forever and William and Mary were on the throne, the settlement was given its township rights an*d the fort was at last established. Today Fort William and Mary is a grass-grown ruin and Walbach Tower is only visited for the view from its battle- ments. It was attacked Dec. 12, 1774, by a band of Colonists led by John Sullivan, afterward Major-general in the Continental Army. This was the first act of overt treason against the king and was par- ticipated in by many men afterward prominent in the formation of the new government. For many years Edmund C. Stedman, the poet and editor, spent the summer at Kelp Rock. Professor Barrett Wendell of Harvard University makes his summer home here. Turning westward the route crosses a bridge and enters Portsmouth by Pleasant St., meeting the main route in Market Square (5.0). 27.5 PORTSMOUTH. Pop 11,269. One of the county-seats of Rockingham Co. Settled 1630. Port of Entry. U.S. Navy Yard. Mfg. cotton cloth, malt liquors, shoes, paper, and iron castings. Value of Product (1909), $2,871,000; Payroll, $608,000. This 'Old Town by the Sea' in spite of modern industry, re- viving commerce, and many modern tawdry buildings, still wears R. 36 2. NEWBURYPORT TO PORTSMOUTH 667 an air of antiquity and repose. Many of its fine old Colonial mansions are still owned and inhabited, at least in the summer time, by descendants of its old merchant princes. In that most fascinating tale of boyhood "The Story of a Bad Boy" occurs this intimate portrayal of Tom Bailey Aldrich's native town: "The harbor is so fine that the largest ships can sail directly up to the wharves and drop anchor. Only they don't. . Years ago it was a famous seaport. Princely fortunes were made in the West India trade; and in 1812, when we were at war with Great Britain, a number of privateers were fitted out at Rivermouth to prey upon the merchant vessels of the enemy. Certain people grew suddenly and mysteriously rich. A great many of 'the first families' of today do not care to trace their pedigree back to the time when their grandsires owned shares in the Matilda Jane, twenty-four guns. Well, Well!" Portsmouth is built on a peninsula formed by arms of the Piscataqua, a deep estuary miscalled a river. As New Hamp- shire's only port it is the distributing center for most of the coal used in the State, in neighboring portions of Maine, and also in Vermont. Market Square, the 'Parade,' is the center of the city now as in the past. On the east side is the oldest bank building in the United States continuously used for bank purposes. The Athenaeum, with a brass cannon on either side of its door- way, was erected in 1803. It is a private institution limited to membership of a hundred stockholders, though visitors are welcomed with courtesy. It contains collections of rare books and early documents. Turning toward the waterfront along the curving Bow St., to the right, on Chapel St., stands St. John's Church, a plain rectangular structure of brick with a square tower and belfry, all of excellent proportions. Built in 1806 it replaced Queen's Chapel destroyed by fire. The view from the belfry is inter- esting and the interior contains much worth seeing. The font is of porphyritic marble with brass covers. It was brought from Senegal by Captain John Mason in 1758, who probably bought it of the heathen for a jug of rum. Here too is "an ungodly chest of whistles," an organ presented to the citizens of the Brattle Street Church in Boston by one of the Brattle family, which those pious people refused to accept. Here is treasured one of the four "Vinegar Bibles" in the country, so called because of a printer's error which made "vinegar" out of "vineyard" in the parable. Every Sunday, bread is distributed free to the poor of the church, as provided in the. bequest of one of the early parishioners. The bell which hangs in the tower was brought by Sir William Pepperell in 1745 as part of the plunder from Louisburg and was recast by Paul Revere in 1806. The graveyard with ivy-covered walls has many interesting memories and stories. 668 PORTSMOUTH The Warner house, a block away at the corner of Chapel and Daniel Sts., was built in 1712 of imported Dutch brick, the first brought to this country. About fifty years ago, on peeling away successive layers of wall papers the original frescoes were brought to light. On the western end of the house is one of the first lightning rods which Benjamin Franklin set up (1762). The Aldrich Memorial, at 45 Court St., where Thomas Bailey Aldrich was born, has been carefully restored to the conditions of Aldrich's boyhood. Even his clothes and boy- hood books, as well as the furniture and china of his grand- father's day, have been put back in their places, and many other souvenirs are preserved in a fireproof building close by. In the garden is grown every flower mentioned in the author's poems. Many of the scenes of the Bad Boy's adventures can still be identified, the school house, Slatter's Hill, the scene of the great snowball fight, and the wharf where Tom Bailey touched the match to the fuse which set the "Old Sogers" off. Off Market Square is the hill down which the boys rolled "The Plow Boy," as the dilapidated old stage coach was called, though as a matter of fact Aldrich did not share in the prank. It was in the Whit- comb house on the west corner of Fleet and State Sts. that they ordered sixpenny and ninepenny ice-creams. THE WARNER HOUSE, PORTSMOUTH The leader ,of the boys who burned the stage celebrated each third of July, until his death a few years ago, by ordering his ice-cream in this same room. A tablet on the corner of Court and Atkinson Sts. marks the site of the William Pitt Tavern, erected in 1770. Washington, who seems to have visited all the New England inns on his tour of 1789, stopped here, as did Lafayette, Louis Philippe, later King of France, John Hancock, and others of fame in the early days. Before the Revolution it was a rendezvous for the Loyalists, but after being mobbed in 1777 by a band of patriots a new light dawned upon the inn-keeper, who took down the old sign and put in its place the name of the elder Pitt, the eloquent pleader of the Colonists' cause. The Governor John Langdon house (1784) is on Pleasant St. near the corner of Cross St., opposite the Universalist Church, R. 36 2. NEWBURYPORT TO PORTSMOUTH 669 and is still inhabited by his descendants. In 1789 Washington was banqueted here and praised the mansion as the handsomest in town. President Monroe, Louis Philippe, Lafayette, the Marquis de Chastellux, and John Hancock have been guests. Langdon was a prosperous ship-owner and trader prior to the Rev- olution and in the early days of the war when things looked dark for the Colonies and it was difficult to obtain sufficient money to finance them he rose in a convention of New Hampshire representatives and said that in his cellar was a large quantity of rum, molasses, and other valuable articles which he would pledge together with the rest of his fortune to the cause of the Colonies. He was sent to the Continental Congress and would have signed the Declaration had he not been sent back to Portsmouth to superintend the building of John Paul Jones' ship " Ranger." Langdon later became Governor of New Hampshire and the first president of the U.S. Senate. He was bitterly opposed to the second election of Washington because of the Jay Treaty which forbade American ships the right to enter Canadian ports and made no provision against the right of search. Though popular in his own city, in other towns his body was burned in effigy. Somewhat beyond the Universalist Church, at the corner of Edward St. near Haven Park, is the Jacob Wendell house (1789), which is preserved in almost every detail as it stood a century or more ago. Its rooms are beautifully proportioned and contain a splendid collection of antiques, preserved for more than a century. The Wentworths were perhaps the most prominent of any family in Portsmouth and were the oldtime rivals in commerce and politics of the Pepperells. There are three Wentworth houses still remaining. Five Wentworths of the name of John lived in the town at different times. Benning Wentworth, who served as royal Governor from 1741 to 1767, was in turn the son of a Lieutenant-governor, and John, who succeeded Benning, was his nephew. The house (1769) of Governor John Wentworth, the last of the royal Governors, is at the corner of Pleasant and Wentworth Sts. At the outbreak of the Revolution a mob attacked his house and he was obliged to flee. A broken marble mantel still in place gives evidence of how the mob in their disappoint- ment at his escape wrecked the house. This Governor John and his lady, who put an interval of less than a fortnight between husband number one and number two, furnished gossip for the neighborhood. On one occasion when he found his wife had gone to some social festivity without his knowledge he kept her locked without until she raised such a clatter that in fear of scandal he opened the door and went forth to bring her in. But she, by a sudden dash, reached the house and turned the latch against her husband, whom she kept shivering and possibly uttering imprecations, for it is said he was but scantily clad. The earliest of the Wentworth houses, on a bend in Manning St., looking toward Water St., is almost the oldest house in Portsmouth. It was built about 1670 by Samuel Wentworth, the first of the name to settle here. Governor Benning Went- worth and sixteen other children of that family were born here. The stout proportions of the chimney and the beams bear witness to the age of the homestead. The Wentworth-Gardner house, 56 Gardner St., is one of 670 PORTSMOUTH the Nutting chain of Colonial houses. Its ornamentation throughout and the handsome hall are remarkable. It was built by Mark Hunking Wcntworth in 1760 for his son Thomas (adm. 25 cents). The Public Library (1809), on the corner of Middle and Congress Sts., designed by Bulfinch, was originally used as an academy. The Rockingham House, west of the corner of Chestnut and State Sts., is in the center of a group of fine eighteenth century mansions. The present building is mainly new, but the old Colonial dining room has been preserved. On the corner of State and Middle Sts. is the residence occupied by John Paul Jones while fitting out his squadron. On the west side of Market St., between Hanover and Deer St., is the Moffat house, the first of the Portsmouth mansions of this style, and the wonder of the town at the time of its erection in 1763. It still contains many of its original carved furnishings, the most notable being a wooden mantelpiece from the Moffat house in Hertfordshire, England, a handsome piece of carving attributed to the great seventeenth century architect and designer, Grinling Gibbons. In Revolutionary days this was the residence of General Whipple, one of the 'signers' and a gentleman of the old school, who freed his slave, Prince, for the valor he displayed in fighting for American liberty. No. 32 Vaughan St. is the house occupied by Daniel Webster just after his marriage. Across the Maplewood Avenue bridge, at the top of the hill on Northwest St., facing the river, is the oldest house in Ports- mouth, built by Richard Jackson in 1664 and still in the possession of his descendants. The steep roof almost reaches to the ground at the back and has tempted artists and snap- shotters for many years. On the west side of Langdon St., near the Mill Pond, is the birthplace of Benjamin P. Shillaber, an insignificant structure where lived his aunt, the model of his "Mrs. Partington." The site of the old shipyards along the waterfront, where Paul Jones' "Ranger" was built, is now occupied by coal docks. The harbor is one of the deepest on the Atlantic Coast, with a fifty-five-foot channel at low water. Yet aside from coal barges and the occasional government vessels entering the Navy Yard there is almost no water traffic. Routes 39 (p 702), to Manchester, and 42 (p 708), to Ossipee and the White Mountains, branch westward from Portsmouth. In 1603 Martin Pring sailed into the Piscataqua and in his report called it "the westernmost and best river." Champlain visited the harbor in 1605, and Captain John Smith in 1614 described it as "a safe harbor with a rocky shore." Probably influenced by the accounts of Pring and Smith, David Thompson and others from Plymouth, R. 36 3. PORTSMOUTH TO PORTLAND 671 England, landed at Odiornes Point in 1623 (p 665). In 1630 the Laconia Company sent out a band of colonists who built "the great house," in Water St., on the corner of Court. Church Hill, on which St. John's stands, was then covered with strawberry vines, so the settlement became known as "Strawberry Bank." In 1653 the in- habitants changed the name to Portsmouth in honor of John Mason of Portsmouth, England, the promoter of the colony. The fact that many of the settlers were members of the Church of England created friction between the Colony and the Puritans of Massachusetts and was one of the causes which led to the separation of New Hampshire as a separate province in 1670. Among the industrial firms are the Morley Button Company, the Gale Shoe Company, the Jones Brewing Company, the Colonial Paper Company, and the Ellery Twist Drill Company. R. 36 3. Portsmouth to Portland. 53.5 m. Via YORK HARBOR, KENNEBUNK, and BIDDEFORD; with detours to KITTERY, KENNEBUNKPORT, and OLD ORCHARD. The route is varied, now skirting the rugged coast, and again running inland through rolling farm country. The fashionable York Harbor, popular York Beach, the artist colony of Ogunquit, exclusive Biddeford Pool, and Old Orchard, the Mecca of excursionists, are the principal features. The route throughout is State Road of varied types of construction. Beyond the Kittery bridge it is gravel treated with Tarvia B (p 800) ; through Kittery and York is another type of Tarvia construction; through Wells and beyond it is concrete coated with Tarvia. From Market Square, Portsmouth, the route follows Market St., crossing the Piscataqua river by the Toll Bridge (15 cents), a ramshackly old structure. Its approaches are sordid to the last degree and the view largely comprises the Jones Brewery, which seems to threaten the prohibition state across the river. On the Maine shore the main route follows the State Road inland across the head of Spruce Creek to York Corners (p 673). Detour to Kittery, Navy Yard, and Kittery Point. 5.0 m. The first turn to the right beyond the bridge leads to 1.0 KITTERY. Pop (twp) 3533. York Co. Settled 1623. A sentry -guarded bridge leads to the "pork-barrel" Navy Yard, situated in Kittery, Me., but arrogated to itself by Portsmouth, N.H. It occupies Continental Island, bought by the Government in 1800 for $5500, and Seaveys Island, just below. Between the two is the drydock, 750 feet long, 100 feet wide, and 35 feet deep, of s"olid rock. Since 1900 the Government has expended more than $2,000,000 on build- ings and equipment. On depositing cameras visitors are permitted to walk or motor among the workshops, arsenals. 672 KITTERY YORK ship-houses, and other buildings. Here in days gone by many famous frigates were launched, among them the "Kear- sarge" which sank the "Alabama" off Cherbourg, June u, 1864. The "America," sent to France as a gift to Louis XVI after the Revolution, was built on Badger Island, now a part of the Yard. During the latter part of the Spanish-American War naval prisoners were confined in one of the great granite buildings. Admiral Cervera and a number of other captured Spanish officers were also quartered here for a brief period. A memorial tablet on one of the ship-houses attests the fact that in 1905 the Russian and Japanese Peace Commissioners here negotiated the Treaty of Portsmouth. Leaving the Navy Yard follow the car tracks, right, to the old yellow Congregational Church (1730), opposite which is the cemetery with the graves of numerous sea-captains, and mon- uments to those lost at sea. One of these is inscribed, "Here lies the body of Captain Brown, He was drowned at sea and never was found." The old Pepperell mansion (1682), a large gambrel- roofed structure directly opposite the Kittery Point Post Office, is the show-place of the town. It was built in 1682. Weather- beaten, neglected, and dilapi- FORT MCCLARY, KITTERY dated, with tiny quaint window- panes, it still suggests former respectability. In the ancient Bray homestead (1660) lived Margery Bray, who became Pepperell's wife. The Pepperell tomb, with the monument which was imported from England and bears the family coat-of-arms, lies between the road and the Pepperell Hotel. To the rear of the house is the old garden, at the foot of which were wharves, where salt fish, naval stores, and goods imported for the country trade were landed. William Pepperell, the son of the mer- chant, was born in the old house in i6g6. When he was thirty-one he was elected a member of the King's Council for the Province of Massachusetts and retained that position for thirty-two years. He commanded the expedition against Louisburg in 1745 and after reduc- ing that town he was made a baronet. He was Chief Justice and Lieutenant-general and became a great landowner, having a domain of about 100 square miles. He died in 1759. His grandson was also a man of mark and was created a baronet in 1774. His estates were confiscated because of his Tory leanings. The yellow house on the corner, a little further on, is now pwned by Mr. Stephen Pecatur, grandson of the famous R. 36 3. PORTSMOUTH TO PORTLAND 673 Admiral. The next house was formerly the summer home of William Dean Howells, who had his library and study in the adjoining building, once the barn. Back from the street on the right on Battery Hill, surrounded by trees and brambles and bushes, is Fort McClary, an old blockhouse in fair preser- vation. Originally called Fort Pepperell, it received its present name from John Stark's comrade at the Battle of Bunker Hill. The fine elms that shade the harbor road for two miles date back to the time of Major Thomas Cutts, who kept store in the Pepperell mansion in 1791 and gave Samuel Blake a contract to set them out at the rate of one pint of rum for each. The ninety trees originally planted must have brought Blake almost a hogshead. The left fork, beyond the village of Kittery Point, joins the main route (5.0). Beyond Spruce Creek the main route follows the State Road up a long, easy grade, from the top of which is a view of Mt. Agamenticus, which the natives call Adamaticus, rising ab- ruptly beyond the valley of the York river. Agamenticus (673 ft) is the mariner's landmark all along this coast. It has three humps, the more southwestern being the highest and boldest. According to local tradition it was an ancient meeting place of Indian tribes, and the medicine-man St. Aspenquid, sainted by the Jesuit missionaries, is buried on its summit. A few hundred yards beyond, where the road dips again, on the right was the home of Esther Brooks and Betsy Potter, who in the early part of the last century for years successfully evaded paying their taxes, relying on the legal entanglement resulting from the situation of their house on the line between Kittery and York. Retribution overtook these tax-dodgers: in President Jackson's rebate of surplus revenue in 1837 the only time the Government ever 'cut a melon' these thrifty souls received never a penny. A mile and a half beyond York Kiver, the road forks at YORK CORNERS (7.5). The road straight ahead leads by the inland route to Cape Neddick Post Office (11.5) and York Cliff. Turning right the main route passes through YORK VILLAGE along the road from The Corners to York and York Harbor. 8.5 YORK. Summer pop (twp) 8000; winter pop 2802. York Co. Settled 1624. An ancient community, the beauty of its situation continues to attract ever-increasing numbers of summer residents. The sea, the woods, a beautiful river, and Mt. Agamenticus loom- ing beyond with the lake at its foot, together afford great vari- ety of landscape. York River, York Village, and York Corners are all-the-year-round communities, and York Harbor and 674 YORK Seabury are summer colonies, while York Beach further on has the ' Gay White Way.' York River is an eight-mile stretch of water for canoeing, though the tide flows very rapidly through Sewall's Bridge a mile above the harbor. BuUt in 1761, it is the oldest pile bridge in America. Opposite the Church and the Town Hall, on a slight ridge, is the venerable stone jail, with heavy doors and saw-blade gratings dating from 1653. At the suggestion of William Dean Howells it has been converted into a Colonial Museum. Among the exhibits of earlier days is a Bible which belonged to William Trickey, a local outcast who achieved some noto- riety as a pirate, hermit, and soothsayer, and was confined in the grim dungeon. In his Bible he inscribed: "William Trickey was born|Augest 3rd, 1770] William Trickey his Book| god giv him grace therein to look! and when the beell| doth for him tol thej lord of heven rcev his Soul."| Bordering the river is the York Country Club with its excel- lent golf links and tennis courts, on which $100,000 has recently been spent. On the south side of the river near the shore is the house where Robert Herrick, the novelist, often spends a few weeks before and after the fashionable Summer season. At Pollock Rock stands the Italian villa of H. T. Nichols, which is generally leased to some wealthy family. Most of the Summer cottages and hotels are situated on the northern bank of the river, along the harbor front, and on the shore facing the open ocean with the Isles of Shoals on the south and Boon Island on the east. York Harbor's one bathing beach is on the narrow strip which serves as a cause- way. On the craggy shore is the "Reading Room," or men's club, which is regarded as rather exclusive. Ladies, however, share in its privileges. Its success and popularity have been due largely to the efforts of the Hon. Thomas Nelson Page, now Minister to Italy, whose fine villa a few rods beyond, and somewhat aloof from the main street, has been the scene of many hospitalities. The development of the Norwood Farm, which threw into the market a large extent of wooded land, has attracted a particularly interesting colony: here in a pleasant semi-brick house William Dean Howells and his daughter Miss Mildred Howells spend a long season; Finley Peter Dunne, better known as 'Mr. Dooley,' for several seasons occupied a nearby cottage. Further down the shore are the large mansions of the Cheneys and of the artist Lock- wood De Forest. John Fox and Thomas Bailey Aldrich have also been among the literary lights of York Harbor. Many wealthy families from Boston, New York, and Philadelphia occupy stately villas. R. 36 3. PORTSMOUTH TO PORTLAND 675 The natural advantages of the region having been early reported in England, Sir Ferdinando Gorges and John Mason, after various attempts had been made to settle the coast, secured a grant of 24,000 acres lying on both sides of the Accomaticus, or Agamenticus, river, and sent over men and building materials to aid in its development. The little borough was at first called after the name of the river; but in 1642 it was incorporated as a city, the first in America, under the high-sounding name of Gorgeana, with mayor, aldermen, justices, and other officials, just as in a comic opera. In 1652 the province of Maine submitted to Massachusetts, the charter of the city was revoked and it was reincorporated as York. In 1692 the little settlement was nearly exterminated by an Indian raid of 300 Abenaki Indians. Only three blockhouses escaped pillage and fire, and all the men were killed; but the women and children, who were taken prisoners, were later allowed to go free. One little boy, Jeremiah Moulton, four years old, left in the ruins of his home, as a captain took revenge for the massacre by leading a band against the camp of these Indians and practically exterminating them. From 1716 to 1735 it was the shire town of York County, which then comprised the whole of Maine. In the eighteenth century it enjoyed a good share of the commerce with the East Indies and afterward became a rather important fishing town. It boasts the site of one of the first cotton mills in Maine. Its vogue as a summer resort dates from 1857. One of Hawthorne's most somber tales, "The Minister's Black Veil," was suggested to the author by the prac- tice of the Rev. Joseph Moody, who wore a handkerchief before his disfigured face and was accordingly known as 'Handkerchief Moody.' The shore road from York Harbor runs just back of a fine, hard stretch of sand known as Long Beach. Before us is Cape Neddick, having at its tip The Nubble, a rocky island with a lighthouse, separated from the Cape by a narrow channel through which the tide surges, but accessible at low water. The keeper has an interesting collection of stuffed birds, many of which perished by striking the windows at night. Off shore stands Boon Island Light, a tall brown shaft of masonry built on a low-lying ledge once so dangerous and deserted that occasionally those that found shelter on it died of star- vation before relief arrived from the mainland. YORK BEACH (13.0) is a popular resort between Portsmouth and Portland. The shore line trolley and a branch of the R.R. bring numerous excursionists. The principal beach is south of Cape Neddick, while another, not so long but very popular, is on the northern side. P'rom here, turning to the left, the State Road runs inland by Cape Neddick Post Office to Ogunquit (p 676). Detour via the shore to Bald Head Cliff and Ogunquit. 5.5 m. By following the shore road, crossing a long wooden bridge and turning to the right, we reach York Cliffs. The road winds between wide fields and the rugged shore, passing the domain of Mrs. Conarroe of Philadelphia with its stone villa and its memorial church, St. Peter's-by-the-Sea, a landmark 676 YORK WELLS from all sides. This region was recently an almost primeval forest, but devastating fires and the destructive portable saw- mill have stripped the country, leaving gray rocky crests. Bald Head Cliff, with its treeless moor and rather ugly hotel, is reached by a private road, for the use of which a fee is demanded. The stratified rock has been turned up on edge, making a barrier over which the waves dash in heavy weather. Half a mile beyond is High Pasture. A cavern in the cliffs near here has been explored for seventy-five feet. At low tide the billows spout high from its mouth. Gun Rock is so called from the roar heard for several miles when a breaker happens to hit it in just the right manner. The Devil's Kitchen, the Devil's Pulpit, and other strange rock formations are scattered along the shore. The road now passes between almost parallel ridges of rock. On the one at the left is perched the house and studio of Mr. E. R. Kingsbury; on the other is Grayrock, the red-tiled cot- tage of John Kendrick Bangs, flanked by a delightful garden which people come for miles to see. Mr. Bangs in his most solemn manner passes the contribution box at St. Peter's and thus does penance for making other people laugh at his own "salubrities." Though his house is really in York and his post office is Cape Neddick, he prides himself on being an Ogunquitter and he is claimed by that artistic colony. Just beyond is the artist colony of Perkins Cove. Here Charles H. Woodbury, the marine painter, has his house and studio and sufficient land to secure that end of the town from being too closely settled. His Summer School of painting is always well attended and it has been said that in order to give each pupil a rock on which to perch he has had to split several into less generous sizes. The picturesqueness of the Cove itself has been greatly injured by the building of more or less sophisticated studios and an attempt to set the weather- beaten fish-houses into regular order. Even the replacing of the little foot-bridge across Josius River by one set on cement piers, while adding to safety, did not enhance the beauty of the place. The detour regains the main road at Ogunquit. OGUNQUIT (18.5) twenty-five years ago was a small, iso- lated fishing village reached only by stage. Now it has blos- somed out into a popular Summer resort. The attractive beach fortunately has been kept from any encroachment of small mushroom cottages. It is about three miles long and at its widest lies at low tide flat for five hundred yards. The sand glows ruddy with microscopic garnets which give it marvelous colors through the day. The Ogunquit river empties into the sea at the foot of Israels Head, a sandy bluff. R. 36 3. PORTSMOUTH TO P 75 2 ft) in a lumber and farm hill-country the route meets the Winooski river, which it follows almost to Burling- ton. Its course is 65 miles in length with a fall of 783 feet; it supplies 15,000 horsepower during three quarters of the year, far less than might be obtained by modern engineering. Crossing the Plainfield town line the road leads over the more regular contours of the sandy hills of East Montpelier (31.0). Four and a half miles beyond the village the road from White River Junction and Williamstown Gulf comes in on the left. The sand plain hereabout as well as the long low hills is the work of glaciers and their sweeping streams. 38.0 MONTPELIER. Alt 500 ft. Pop 7856. State capital; also County-seat of Washington Co. Settled 1787. Mfg. gran- ite, machinery, lumber, saddlery, and hardware. Montpelier, the capital of Vermont, is the third largest R. 46 2. ST. JOHNSBURY TO BURLINGTON 733 insurance center in New England. It is situated in a cup- shaped valley on the Winooski ten miles northeast of the geo- graphical center of the State. It is a point from which a dozen good roads radiate through the Green Mountains. The State House, erected in 1857, is a handsome building of Barre granite with a Doric portico of six huge columns and a dome (124 ft) surmounted by a statue of Agriculture by Larkin G. Mead. Beneath the portico is a statue of Ethan Allen, also by Mead, flanked by two brass cannon captured at Bennington (p 257). The cannon on the lawn in front are Spanish pieces taken at the battle of Manila. In the lower corridor is a bust of Lincoln, and portraits of Admirals Dewey and Clark, both Montpelier men. Besides collections on the first floor there are many relics in the room of the Vermont Historical Society, including the Daye press, upon which were printed the first book published in North America and the first Vermont newspaper. The Wood Art Gallery, in the Y. M. C. A. building, contains an interesting collection mainly by Thomas W. Wood, former president of the American Academy of Design. The Kellogg Hubbard Library and the State Arsenal are nearby and on a hill overlooking the town is Montpelier Seminary. Admiral Dewey's birthplace is 144 State St. As Admiral Clark also spent a good part of his boyhood and youth here, the Spanish War has been locally termed "the war between the town of Montpelier and the kingdom of Spain." D. P. Thompson, author of the historical novel "The Green Moun- tain Boys," and James R. Spaulding, founder of the "New York World," were also residents here for some years. Montpelier was settled in 1787 by Massachusetts and Vermont men, including Ira Allen. In 1805 it became the capital. It was named after the French city of Montpellier by 'the father of the town,' Colonel Jacob Davis. From Montpelier the road leads along State St. over a bad R.R. crossing (41.5) and runs along the right bank of the river past Middlesex Station (45.0; 534 ft) and then crosses to the southern side of the stream. The river flows through a rocky passage 60 feet wide and 30 deep, cutting a ledge, probably the western barrier of an ancient lake. On the north bank is the Hogback Range stretching north- ward fifteen miles. The central peak is Mt. Hunger, a name recording the sufferings of a benighted hunting party. The mountain is rugged and precipitous, and although of no great altitude the views from its ridges are extensive. Passing the end of the ridge the Green Mountains come into sight, and crossing the river the road enters 734 WATERBURY BURLINGTON 50.0 WATERBURY. Alt 427 ft. Pop (twp) 2084. Washington Co. Settled 1783. Mfg. granite and wood products. Waterbury's scenery and proximity to the loftiest heights in Vermont have made it a tourist center even in the winter. Nine miles southwest is CAMELS HUMP (4088 ft), the "Lion's Head" of William Dean Howell's story "The Landlord at Lion's Head," also called "Le Lion Couchant," by Frederika Brenier, the Swedish novelist. A well-kept trail leads to the summit, where the Camels Hump Club has erected a steel-covered building asserted to be proof against "fire, wind, and hedgehogs." Tents can be rented at this camp during the summer. More isolated than the other peaks of the Green Mountains it commands a far-reaching outlook over Lake Champlain to Canada, and eastward to the White Mountains. It is a State park, presented by Colonel Joseph Battell (p 267). MX. MANSFIELD, the highest peak in Vermont, is twenty miles northwest of Waterbury, beyond the pretty village of Stowe. This region was once a huge lake bed, whose sands still show on the hill- sides. There is a good road up the mountain past several rock pro- files to the Summit House and the base of The Nose, the central peak between The Forehead, to the south, and The Chin, to the north, which is the highest of the three. The view is more comprehensive than that from Camels Hump; it is even claimed that Montreal has been sighted with a strong glass. To the north, between The Chin and Sterling Mountain, is the rocky defile called Smugglers' Notch, in which the cliffs rose 1000 feet almost perpendicularly. From the base of one of these bluffs Crystal Spring pours out 1000 gallons a minute from the mountain's hidden reservoirs. The name dates from the War of 1812 when smugglers used this defile. The Green Mountain Trail crosses both Camels Hump and Mansfield. From Waterbury the route follows the north bank of the Winooski. Bone Mountain lowers ahead, named for an un- lucky French settler who was dashed to pieces from a 4oo-foot precipice. Bolton Station (57.0; 338 ft). On the right is Stimsons Mountain and on the left Robins Mountain. After crossing Duck Brook, where the wild duck used to nest, the highway passes the Richmond town line opposite JONESVILLE (60.0), with a spool factory, at the mouth of the Huntington river. At RICHMOND (64.5) is the Old Round Church, a sixteen- sided edifice built in 1813. At the fork (66.5) the route turns left over R.R. and a covered bridge beyond. Note. The right fork leads to Burlington via Essex Junc- tion, a slightly longer but pleasant route. 69.0 WILLISTON. Alt 305 ft. Pop (twp) 1000. Settled 1774. This quiet village was the home of Governor Thomas Chit- tenden, the Washington of Vermont, who was the first gover- nor of the State, and its wise and trusted leader, in its forma- tive period, 1778-97. Driven from his settler's cabin here in the Revolution, he with his wife and ten children fled on foot all the way to Castleton, eighty miles or more. 77.0 BURLINGTON (R. S, p 269). R. 47. BURLINGTON to ST. JOHNSBURY. 125.0 m. Via NEWPORT and LAKE WILLOUGHBY. This route is the least hilly of the roads across Vermont as well as one of the most attractive in scenery. It follows por- tions of the valleys of the Lamoille and Missisquoi rivers past Mt. Mansfield to Lake Memphremagog and Newport, which is a point of departure for Quebec and Colebrook. Turning south, the route then passes Lake Willoughby and follows the Passumpsic river to St. Johnsbury. A State Road through- out, it has a good gravel surface with no heavy grades. The route leaves Burlington by way of Pearl St. and Col- chester Ave., descending steeply and crossing the Winooski. 2.2 WINOOSKI. Alt 190 ft. Pop 4520. Chittenden Co. Settled 1772. Mfg. cotton, woolens, screens, machinery, and bricks. This village is practically a manufacturing suburb of Bur- lington. The falls of the Winooski furnish power for several factories, of which the most prominent are the mills of the American Woolen Company. The falls in the village are caused by barriers of red and gray sandstone, such as crop out continually along the Champlain shore. Above the town is the Winooski Gorge, 70 feet wide and 90 feet deep, cutting through limestone and gray sandstone cliffs. Turning right on Allen St., and taking the right fork at the Mary Fletcher Hospital, a mile and a half beyond, the route leaves Fort Ethan Allen on the left fork. Here is the larg- est garrison east of the Mississippi, with twelve cavalry troops and two artillery batteries. The route follows the right fork. 6.5 ESSEX JUNCTION. Alt 343 ft. Pop (twp) 1245. Chittenden Co. Settled 1783. Mfg. bricks, marble, granite, and con- crete products, and canned goods. Primarily a railroad junction, the village has recently been improved as a manufacturing site by the large hydro-electric plant on the Winooski. Here is the office of Guy W. Bailey, the Secretary of the State and leading publicity man. The Junction's notoriety years ago was celebrated in the verse by Edward J. Phelps of Burlington, later professor of law at Yale and Minister to England under President Cleveland: "Here Boston waits for Ogdensburg, And Ogdensburg for Montreal,. And late New York long tarrieth, And Saratoga hindereth all; Oh, fellow man, avoid this place As you would plague or Peter Funk shun; And I hope in hell Their souls may dwell Who first invented Essex Junction." (735) 736 ESSEX JUNCTION NEWPORT The road follows the trolley to the left, forking to the right two miles further on. Passing through Essex Center (9.7) the road parallels Browns River across a corner of Jericho township, keeping to the left at Jericho Post Office. Mt. Mansfield (p 734) rises against the horizon ten miles to the east, with Mt. Sterling (3700 ft) at its northern end. The route turns northward through UNDERBILL (16.0), bearing left at the fork and continuing over slightly rolling country beside R.R., which it crosses with a double curve (21.5) near Cloverdale Station; it then crosses the Lamoille County line into Cambridge township. This is a farming and lumbering country at the northern base of Mt. Mansfield. From CAMBRIDGE (26.5), a quiet woodland village, the southern road leads to Smugglers' Notch (p 734). Continuing straight through Cambridge the route meets the Lamoille river. Forking left at Jeffersonville (29.0) the road follows the river and R.R. up the quiet valley past the Johnson town line into a hillier country. 38.0 JOHNSON. Alt 531 ft. Pop (twp) 651. Lamoille Co. Set- tled 1784. Mfg. lumber, talc, and woolens. This hill village is at the foot of a spur of the Green Moun- tains at the northern end of the Green Mountain Trail (p 259), with Mansfield's heights to the southwest. A State Normal School is located here. McConnells Falls rush under a small natural bridge, which is best seen at low water. The righthand road beyond the Post Office leads to Stowe, Mt. Mansfield, and Waterbury, on Route 46 (p 734). The route takes the left road beyond the Post Office, leading, eastward through the hamlet of North Hyde Park. Hyde Park, six miles to the south, has a hide industry. The route crosses into Eden township and ascending the valley of Gihon River crosses the watershed into the St. Lawrence Basin. The countryside is hilly and well wooded, so that lumbering takes precedence of farming. Passing through the village of EDEN (48.0), with its lumber mills, and along the shore of North Pond (50.0) the road climbs easily over a low range of hills and crosses the Orleans County line, entering the township of Lowell. To the left is Mt. Morris with Belvidere Mountain beyond it to the north- west. The latter is the site of the principal asbestos mines, outside Canada, on the continent. By the foot of Mt. Morris the road joins the headwaters of the Missisquoi river, whose name means "big woman," and follows its valley northward through the hamlet of Lowell (58.0) where the stream plunges through a hole in the solid rock at the bottom of a ten-foot fall. The highway keeps R. 47. BURLINGTON TO ST. JOHNSBURY 737 straight on through the wooded hills to WESTFIELD (64.5), a borderland village, where the route takes the right fork at the Post Office. At Troy (66.0) the route again bears to the right leading through a level farming country, past the Newport town line and the hamlet of West Newport (71.5). One mile beyond the route takes the center road at the triple fork and descends to Lake Memphremagog and 77.0 NEWPORT. Alt 700 ft. Pop (twp) 2548. County-seat of Orleans Co. Settled 1793. Mfg. lumber and wood products. Newport is an enterprising village with a handsome location near the Canadian border, at the southern end of Lake Mem- phremagog. It is a point of departure for Canadian tours as well as a summer excursion center. The Newport Yacht Club considerately places its club house at the convenience of motorists who are pausing here. The Federal Government has a customs office where all tourists from Canada must stop. The lumber business of Prouty and Miller has its headquarters here, handling 20,00x3,000 feet of dressed lumber annually. Lake Memphremagog's name is interpreted as "the lake of beauty" or "the waters of abundance." It is thirty miles long with a maximum width of four miles, more than two thirds of it lying in Canada. Twelve miles up the lake, on the west shore past the Canadian line, is Owl's Head (3270 ft), from the top of which there is an extensive view. A Masonic service is held in a crevice on its heights every summer. Along the shore are summer homes of Montreal magnates. Note. From Newport to Quebec (180.0) the main route follows the St. Francis and the Chaudiere rivers via Stanstead, Lennoxville, Thetford, the site of the largest asbestos mines in the world, Robertson Station, Broughton, St. Frederic, St. Joseph, Beauce Junction, Ste. Marie, Scott Junction, St. Henri, Levis, and Quebec. The roads are very good in the main, and there are no severe gradients. The route leaves Newport by Main St., crossing R.R. and turning left and then right at once, passing through the village of West Derby (78.5) where the road bears right to the hamlet of Derby (81.0) with its granite quarries and lumber mills. Swinging to the right through a covered bridge and then to the left, the road leaves Derby and runs through a fairly level country past Salem Pond into WEST CHARLESTON (87.0). Note. From West Charleston to Colebrook (48.0) the road passes through the Clyde and Nulhegan valleys via East Charleston, Island Pond, and North Stratford, where it joins Route 10 (p 365). 738 NEWPORT ST. JOHNSBURY From West Charleston the main route turns to the right at the Post Office and again to the right one mile beyond. The route heads southwest through broken country, climbing gradually and curving left at the road-end on the hilltop (94.0) and descending past the Westmore town line to LAKE WIL- LOUGHBY. This is a seven-mile stretch of water between two ridges rising to the peaks of Mt. Pisgah (2654 ft) on the east, and Mt. Hor (1592 ft) on the west. Passing through the little settlement of Westmore (97.5) the road runs close to the eastern shore of the lake on the narrow shelf at the foot of the hills. Near the foot of Mt. Pisgah is the Devil's Den, a mass of rock rent asunder by some upheaval of nature. Above is the Flower Garden, on the mountainside, a section where many rare flowers and plants are found, not elsewhere discovered south of the Arctic Circle. Landlocked salmon, lake trout, steelhead trout, whitefish, cusk, and smelts are caught in the lake, and the brooks afford good trout fishing as well. The view from the southern end of the lake is probably the best. The highway leads across the Caledonia County line into Newark and shortly after into Sutton townships, following the Passumpsic river, which rises in these hills, down through the hamlet of West Burke (107.5) an d across the Burke- Lyndon line to the quiet village of LYNDON CENTER (116.0). A mile to the left is Lyndonville, a busy little center on the falls of the Passumpsic river, with railroad shops and a few factories. Theodore N. Vail, head of the American Tele- phone and Telegraph Company, has a summer home and a scientific farm here, and has given the State the Lyndon Agricultural School, an excellent institution. The route proceeds southward, still following the river, and crossing the St. Johnsbury township line. After passing sev- eral dangerous grade crossings the road goes through St. Johns- bury Center (122.0) and then reaches 125.0 ST. JOHNSBURY (R. 46, p 731). R. 48. FRANKLIN to WEST LEBANON. 52.5 m. This route follows the projected Mascoma Valley State Highway, a convenient link between the Connecticut and Merrimack valleys. It is to be marked by green and blue bands with white border. At Franklin turn left from Main St. beyond R.R. and pass Webster Lake, crossing and recrossing R.R., which the route follows closely throughout. Continue through the hamlet of East Andover (6.0), by Highland Lake, and through Andover (10.7) past Pleasant Lake to West Andover (13.5). Here Route 43 (p 720) forks left to Lake Sunapee and Claremont. To the right are the bleak slopes of Ragged Mountain (2256 ft). Still following R.R. closely, at Danbury (19.5) the route forks left through East Grafton (24.5), again forking left beside R.R. through 26.5 GRAFTON CENTER. Alt 840 ft. Pop (twp) 641. Grafton Co. Mfg. mica and lumber products. This pleasant little village lies near Tewksbury Pond. To the south is Milvin Hill (2134 ft) and to the north Isinglass Mountain, where are the mines of the United Mica Co. On the north side of a spur, the Pinnacle, is a 150-foot precipice. The route parallels R.R. past the mountain, with Mt. Car- digan (3250 ft) to the east. From its domed summit of granite there is an extensive view. Professor Hitchock says: "Ob- servation shows that the granite came up through a vent directly under the apex of the cone; that when soft the pasty material oozed from the opening and gradually accumulated until the whole mountain was built up." 33.5 CANAAN. Alt 942 ft. Pop (twp) 1408. Grafton Co. At Crystal Lake, reached by the right fork, is the straggling pretty village of Canaan Street, with a nine-hole golf course. By the outlet of the lake, at the north end of the village, is Canaan Corner, where the Stillson wrench was invented. The route forks left in Canaan, continuing beside the R.R. down the Mascoma valley through West Canaan (39.5). Of the saw, woolen, and paper mills once driven by the river only a sawmill remains. At Enfield (42.5) is Mascoma Lake, four miles long, with a Shaker Village on the south bank, reached by a bridge. Here brooms, woolen goods, and seeds are for sale. Continue westward through Lebanon (47.5), joining Route 10 n (P 337)) descending to 52.5 WEST LEBANON. (739) R. 49. BRETTON WOODS to BANGOR. 186.5 m. Via BETHEL, RUMFOKD, FARMINGTON, and SKOWHEGAN. This route crosses the heart of Maine, for the most part traversing fair to good roads in the midst of a fertile agricul- tural region. Rumford, with its great industrial development, cannot fail to interest. The route intersects most of the important Maine routes. From Bretton Woods follow Route 51 reversed to Bethel (47.5). Turn left, continuing down the Androscoggin river on the west bank past Mt. Will (1745 ft) to 54.0 NEWRY. Alt 680 ft. Pop(twp)271. Oxford Co. Settled 1781. From this hill village the route still follows the left bank of the Androscoggin eastward through 66.0 HANOVER. Alt 700 ft. Pop (twp) 196. Settled 1802. Continuing beside the river, the route crosses Ellis River and bears right, following the bank through Rumford Point (67.5) and Rumford Center (71.5) to 77.0 RUMFORD. Alt 516 ft. Pop (twp) 6777 . Oxford Co. Settled 1780. Mfg. paper. Rumford, one of the great paper-making centers of New England, a quarter of a century ago was a tiny hamlet. The falls, "the grandest in New England," descend over ragged granite ledges 180 feet in four plunges. The third and prin- cipal fall has an almost perpendicular descent of 80 feet and its roaring can be heard at some distance. The best view of this fall is from the concrete bridge. At all points not needed for industrial purposes the wild beauty of the riverbanks has been preserved for parks. About half of the 54,000 h.p. is utilized in the making of paper and in subsidiary industries. Rumford is the creation of a modern industrial community from the ground up, a new railway, a magnificent waterpower, great in- dustries, and a highly organized urban community, all within about 20 years. The scheme, including the planning of the city and the establishment of coordinating industries, is the fruit of the organizing genius of Hugh J. Chisholm of the International Paper Company, who started life as a newsboy on the Grand Trunk trains. The Oxford Paper Company makes all the postals for the U.S. Government at the rate of 3,000,000 a day. Next the International mill is the factory of the Continental Bag Company with a capacity of 15,000,000 bags per day. This factory utilizes a good part of the product of the paper mills. The main industries use each other's products, and diversified minor industries avail themselves of the distribution of electric power. Crossing Swift River continue along the left bank of the Androscoggin through Dixfield (83.0). Note. In rainy weather the best route to Farmington bears left through Berry Mills (8.0), Weld (15.0), and Wilton (28.0). This road is eleven miles longer, but less hilly than the route described below. (740) R. 49- BRETTON WOODS TO BANGOR 741 Leaving the river at East Dixfield (95.0), the route turns left up through the hills to 99.5 WILTON. Alt 472 ft. Pop (twp) 2143. Franklin Co. Set- tled 1789. Mfg. woolens. Wilton is the distributing center for the region (p 754). The road follows R.R., which it crosses at East Wilton (102.5). 707.0 FARMINGTON (R. 52, p 754). The route follows the valley of Sandy River through New Sharon (115.5) to 122.0 MERCER. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 441. Somerset Co. Set- tled 1784. Mfg. lumber products. The small towns in this part of Maine were settled in the last quarter of the eighteenth century and had a slow growth as agricultural communities. About 1860 the population de- clined owing to the Civil War and to the migration to the West, perhaps even more to the destruction of the forests and the exhaustion of the soil. In recent years new life has been created by the introduction of manufacturing, the develop- ment of waterpower, and more intelligent methods of farming. From Mercer keep straight on between Willard and Beech Hills, at East Mercer (124.0) descending steep grade. 130.0 NORRIDGEWOCK. Alt 187 ft. Pop (twp) 1608. Somer- set Co. Settled 1773. Indian name, "smooth water." Mfg. granite and shoes. Norridgewock is a fine old country town on the Kennebec river with a broad street parallel with the bank and bordered by some magnificent elms. West of the north end of the bridge is the Free Library Building, given to the town by the late Rebecca S. Clark, 'Sophie May,' whose home is to the west and on the left. Below the bridge on the north side of the street stands the old stone jail built in 1810; and beyond by the river nearly opposite 'The Old Willow,' stands a two- story dwelling, Somerset County's first Court House. Norridgewock was the scene of a horrible massacre by the Colonial troops in 1724. After that the place remained desolate for half a century. Whittier's poem "Mogg Megone" has much to do with this region. Five miles above the town is Old Point where a granite shaft surmounted by an iron cross marks the site of the village of Canibas Indians and a famous French Jesuit mission during the seventeenth century, under the scholarly Sebastien Rale, who became chief of the Abenaquis in fact if not in name. The road follows the right bank of the Kennebec river, join- ing Route 52, to BANGOR (186.5), at 135.0 SKOWHEGAN (R. 55, p 784). I R. 50. PORTLAND to BRETTON WOODS. 95.0 m. Via SEBAGO LAKE and CRAWFORD NOTCH. This route is shorter but less used than Route 51. The roads are chiefly dirt and gravel, recently improved and eventually to be united as a State trunk line road. The rise of 900 feet from sea level at Portland to North Conway is gradual with no heavy grades. Sebago Lake is a center for attractive excursions by steamer to various resorts along Sebago Lake, Long Lake, and the Songo river. Ever-changing views of the White Mountains rise westward, between Fryeburg, reminiscent of Indian warfare, and Route 42, the New Hamp- shire East Side State Road. Thence the route turns north- ward through the intervales of the upper Saco valley to Glen and via the Crawford Notch to Bretton Woods. Leaving Congress Square, Portland,, by way of State St. and Forest Ave., passing Deering's Oaks and Woodfords, to MORRILL'S CORNER (3.5), the route lies straight ahead. Allen Ave., to the right, leads to Poland Spring, via Route 51 (P 749)- Note. Forest Ave., to the left, affords an optional route to Naples. This runs over dirt roadways through Cumberland Mills, where the waterpower of the Presumpscot is utilized in the manufacture of wood pulp and paper, to Gorham and the village of Sebago Lake, where the steamers start, through East Sebago, North Sebago, and South Naples to Naples. Two miles beyond, on the right, is Riverton Park, an amuse- ment resort. The road crosses the Presumpscot river to HIGHLAND LAKE (8.5), formerly called Duck Pond. Four miles beyond the road passes through Windham Center, and crosses Pleasant River, a branch of the Presumpscot, into 16.5 NORTH WINDHAM. Alt 320 ft. Pop (twp) 1954. Set. 1737. SEBAGO LAKE (262 ft), about sixteen miles long and eleven miles wide, covers about 100 square miles and receives the water from some twenty-three lakes, besides having a con- siderable watershed of its own. The Indian name Sebago means "lake." It is the source of the water supply for the city of Portland. The chemical analysis of the water is said to be identical with that of the famous Poland Spring. Its outlet, the Presumpscot river, furnishes valuable waterpower. The lake is famous for its salmon and smelt fishing. The continuation of the fish supply is assured by the fish hatcheries at Naples and Raymond. As the ice goes out in Sebago earlier than in any other Maine lake, the fishermen have a long season. The lake contains two large islands: Indian, (742) R. 50. PORTLAND TO BRETTON WOODS 743 about 75 acres, and Frye, about 1000. The few others are of bungalow size. There is a frequent steamboat service on Sebago Lake, upon the arrival of trains, to all points on the shore of the lake, also through the Songo river and Long Lake to Bridgton, North Bridgton, and Harrison. On the shore of Raymond Neck opposite Frye Island is Frye's Leap, a precipitous rock nearly forty feet high. The original Indian pictographs on the cliff have been superabundantly restored. The legend runs that during the assault by the Indians, Captain Frye jumped from the summit of the rock to the water, a distance of forty feet, and swam to Frye Island opposite. Today, as the steamer passes, a Wawenock Indian springs out on the cliff and gives the redman's warwhoop. The 'Indian' is one of the staff of Dr. Kendall's Camp Wawenock, for boys. Sebago- Wohelo (p 800), Dr. and Mrs. Luther H. Gulick's camp for girls, is on Shingle Cove, two miles to the north. Several other camps of less note are situated on the neighboring shores. On the west shore of the lake is the Saddleback Range, of which the highest point is Douglas Hill (1407 ft). 21.5 RAYMOND. Alt 400 ft. Pop (twp) 677. Cumberland Co. Settled 1771. This is a clean little village with neat residences and elm- shaded streets at the head of Jordan Bay, with a magnificent view of the White Mountains. Its name honors Captain William Raymond, who had the grant in 1767 for services rendered in the Canadian expedition. The boyhood home of Nathaniel Hawthorne, now used as a church, where his ancestors lived for generations, lies to the right of the route on the road which runs out on Raymond Neck. It is near Dingley Brook which, issuing from Thomas Pond, on the right, makes a plunge of fifteen feet down to Sebago Lake. Hawthorne returned to his home for his vaca- tions every year from 1813 to 1825, when he graduated from Bowdoin. At the outlet of Thomas Pond is a flat rock known as Nat's Rock, said to be Hawthorne's favorite fishing place. THE SONGO RIVER, the outlet of Brandy Pond, now called Bay of Naples at the foot of Long Lake, flows into Sebago. Songo is an Indian word meaning "the outlet." Longfellow's description may be taken literally: "Nowhere such a devious stream, Save in fancy or in dream, Winding slow through brush and brake, Links together lake by lake." The steamer traverses a distance of six and a half miles with twenty-seven turns in a forward progress of two and a half 744 RAYMOND FRYEBURG miles. The new concrete lock, replacing the old one of 1823, near the upper end of the river, has a fall of seven feet. The Indians assembled at the head of Long Lake under Worrambus. In many canoes they passed down Lake Wyonegonic, now Long Lake, through the Songo and fell upon the newly settled town of Gorham. In the fight, the Indians were repulsed and Worrambus mortally wounded. A legend tells of his death on the banks of the Songo at- tended by his daughter Minnehaha. Passing straight through South Casco, and across Crooked River, the Songo's confluent, the route passes between Brandy Pond on the left and Long Lake on the right. 30.5 NAPLES. Alt 275 ft. Pop (twp) 736. Cumberland Co. Settled 1743. Steamboat line on Songo River, Long Lake, and Sebago Lake. This is a popular summer resort of hotels and cottages, with a nine-hole golf course. The ponds are stocked every year with salmon, bass, and trout from the State Fish Hatchery. LONG LAKE, the Indian name of which is Wyonegonic, is about eleven miles long. It is a beautiful body of water with high, wooded shores which have made it a most popular loca- tion for boys' and girls' summer camps. Some of the best known and best managed are clustered about the head of the lake near Harrison, among them Camps Wyonee, Wildmere, and Kineo (p 800). Near North Bridgton is Long Lake Lodge. HARRISON. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 967. Cumberland Co. Settled 1770. Steamboat line on Long and Sebago Lakes. At the head of Long Lake is Harrison, a quiet, restful village in a happy combination of mountain, lake, and forest. The streets are shaded by elms and contain many summer resi- dences. Alice Nielsen, the prima donna, Owen Wister, the novelist, and other celebrities camp here in the summer. A few miles beyond Harrison is Waterford, the old home and burial place of 'Artemus Ward,' Charles Farrar Browne, second only to Mark Twain in typically American humor. DENMARK, a pretty village on Moose Pond, is twelve miles west of Naples. The route to Poland Spring is given in Route 52 n (p 749). From Naples the road leads northward along the high land on the west side of the lake, with delightful views of the White Mountains. Crossing the Bridgton and Saco River Narrow Gauge R.R., the road enters 39.0 BRIDGTON. Alt 405 ft. Pop (twp) 2600. Cumberland Co. Settled 1770. Mfg. woolens, lumber, and lumber products. Steamboat line on Long and Sebago Lakes. Located on a high ledge between Long Lake and Highland Lake, this active little town is one of the more important R. 50. PORTLAND TO BRETTON WOODS 745 points in the Sebago Lake region. Formerly known as Pondi- cherry, it was renamed for Moody Bridges of Andover, a large landowner. The Pondicherry and one of the American Woolen Company mills are located here. From Bridgton's rambling Main St. there are many pretty glimpses of the neighboring lakes and the countryside from Poland Spring to Mt. Washington. Pleasant Mountain (2007 ft), five miles west, is the central feature of the land- scape. The view from Sunset Rock (640 ft), a bluff one mile north on Highland Lake, is well worth seeing. On the Upper Ridge is Wayside Gardens, a pretty horticultural exhibit. The Saco Valley Musical Festival, which is held here annually the first week in Augus", has among its patronesses Mrs. Kate Douglas Wiggin Riggs and Mme. Olive Fremstad. From Bridgton the road skirts the southern shore of High- land Lake on which are cottages and camps of many wellknown people, Mme. Fremstad among the number, and three miles west of Bridgton. On Moose Pond are the popular group of Cobb's Camps for both boys and girls, Camp Winona for boys and Camp Wyonegonic for girls. At the hamlet of Pumpkin valley, Beaver Pond is on the left. The road crosses Moose Pond by a double causeway, to the left of which is a small island, Sabattus, upon which the famous Indian Chief Sabattus is said to have lived. His wig- wam was provided with a cellar, unusual among Indians. The route passes West Bridgton, at the foot of Pleasant Mountain. Continuing through the crossroads village of East Fryeburg (48.5), the route enters the broad intervales of the Saco. To the right, before entering the village of Fryeburg, is the Jockey Cap, a rocky mass containing small garnets, rising a couple of hundred feet above the road. Lovells Pond, to the left, was the scene of the all-day fight of Captain Love- well and his band of scouts in 1725, from which only a few survivors reached the settlements. It is mainly notable as the only battle fought on the soil of this State. The spot is marked by a monument. Longfellow's first poem, written at the age of thirteen, was on this skirmish. 54.5 FRYEBURG. Alt 429 ft. Pop (twp) 1282. Oxford Co. Set- tled 1762. Indian name Pequawket, " crooked place" or " white swan." Mfg. canned goods. This pleasant, peaceful village is in the fertile Saco river meadows. James Ripley Osgood, wellknown in Boston liter- ary circles fifty years ago, for his connection with the "Atlan- tic " and later with "Harper's Magazine," and Kate Putnam Osgood, writer of verse, were born and spent their youthful vears in the large white house on the left, now marked "Ye 746 FRYEBURG BARTLETT Inn." Commander Robert E. Peary spent a year or more in Fryeburg, after graduating from Bowdoin, and he is now an occasional visitor to the village. Fryeburg was granted through General Joseph Frye of Andover, Mass., a veteran of the French Wars. For many years it was the only town near the White Mountains and thrived as the market town of the countryside. Daniel Webster taught at the Fryeburg Academy, eking out his modest salary of $350 a year by copying deeds for the county registry. Howells opened "A Modern Instance" here, and Dr. Holmes introduced a Fryeburg character in "Elsie Venner." The route follows the valley of the Saco, crossing the State line into New Hampshire, and beyond the village of Center Conway (59.0) turns right and crosses the Saco river. Rattle- snake Mountain lies to the right with quarries at Redstone (62.0). At NORTH CONWAY (65.0) the route joins Route 42 (P 7!5)> the East Side Road of the New Hampshire State Highways, marked by yellow bands on the telephone poles. At GLEN (71.0) the route turns left across the Ellis river, following the red-banded poles. Route 42 with the yellow markers continues to Gorham and the Dixville Notch (p 715). From the bridge there is a fine view of Carter Notch. The route continues up the valley with Iron Mountain on the right. Ahead is the dome of Mt. Carrigain (4650 ft). 77.0 BARTLETT. Alt 670 ft. Pop (twp) 1196. Carroll Co. Settled 1770. Bartlett stands at the meeting of the Saco river with the East Branch near the great bend of the Saco valley. The little village is nearly surrounded by Mt. Kearsarge (2943 ft), Thorn Hill (1440 ft), and Moat Mountain. There is a magnifi- cent view of the Saco intervales from the little church just below Lower Bartlett. To the right is Hart Ledge and to the left the Bartlett Haystack. The town was settled about 1770 and named in honor of Josiah Bartlett, the first American Governor of New Hampshire, and a signer of the Declaration of Independence. The nearest market for the set- tlers was at Dover, N.H., and there they went in winter on snow- shoes and dragging hand sleds. Sawyer's Rock, a great boulder on the right, is said to have been christened by the old huntsman himself, who broke a bottle of rum against it when he and Nash successfully drove a horse through the Notch in 1773. CRAWFORD GLEN. The narrow valley from Sawyer's to the Crawford House, a distance of about twelve and a half miles, is known as the Crawford Glen. Only the last three miles of this, from a point a little below the Willey House, is the Crawford Notch proper, the gateway to the White Mountains. Beyond Sawyer's and just before reaching the hamlet of BEMIS (83.5), the route crosses Nancy's Brook, named for an unfortunate servant girl who walked to this point from Lan- caster one winter's night in pursuit of a faithless lover. Chilled R. 50. PORTLAND TO BRETTON WOODS 747 and weary, she sank exhausted by this brook, and was found a month later frozen to death. Just beyond, on the left, is the grave of Abel Crawford, "the patriarch of the mountains." As the road ascends the Glen, on the right to the east is the Crawford group of summits, and to the left, the Nancy range. CRAWFORD NOTCH is one of the celebrated features of the White Mountains, the gateway by which most people enter and leave this region. On the west are Mts. Willey (4260 ft) and Willard (2786 ft), and on the east, Mts. Jackson (4012 ft) and Webster (3876 ft). Soon after entering the defile, the road passes the old Willey House (89.0) at an altitude of 1450 feet. This was the scene of the disaster of June, 1826, when the nine members of the household lost their lives. On that fatal night, roused by the roar of the avalanche, they rushed from their beds and from the house, and a short distance away were buried by the rocks and debris; the house was unharmed. These landslides have carried away nearly all of the crumbling, partially decomposed granite from the slopes so that there is no longer any danger from them. The Notch was first made known by Timothy Nash, a hunter and trapper, who pursued a moose here in 1771. Nash went to Portsmouth and informed Governor Wentworth of this mountain pass. Went- worth, in order to test its value as a route of commerce, told Nash that if he could bring a horse through it from Lancaster to Portsmouth, he should receive a grant of more than 2000 acres, from the Gate of the Notch to beyond Fabyans. Nash and his fellow pioneer, Sawyer, brought a horse from Lancaster, lowered the beast over the cliffs, and drove it down the Notch along the rocky bed of the Saco, and so to Portsmouth, receiving their promised reward from the Governor. A few years later a road was built which became the direct route be- tween the coast and the upper Coos country. In 180.* the famous Tenth New Hampshire Turnpike was constructed and became a much traveled route with very profitable tolls; trains of merchandise a half a mile long were often seen upon it. With the coming of the railroad, the turnpike fell somewhat into disuse, but coaching and automobil- ing has again brought it into renown. One of the principal taverns on the old 'pike' was on the site of the present Fabyans. The imme- diate area of the Crawford Notch, purchased for $100,000, is now owned by the State of New Hampshire. It is nearly surrounded by the lands of the National Forest (p 622). The road winds upward through the defile between lofty mountain walls, following the course of the Saco. Climbing the steep ascent of Tug-of-War Hill (90.0), the route reaches the most imposing point in the gorge. On the right are the Silver Cascade and the Flume Cascade (250 ft). The northern gateway of the Notch is only twenty-six feet wide and through it crowd the Saco river and the carriage road. Close at hand is the cliff of Elephant's Head, and at the summit is the watershed divide between Long Island Sound and the Maine coast. The Crawford House (92.0) is situated on a plateau (1891 ft) about a quarter mile from the north entrance to the Notch. The Crawfords, a hardy Scotch family, settled here in the 748 BARTLETT BRETTON WOODS latter eighteenth century; A. E. Crawford, the most famous of White Mountain guides, built the first house on the summit of Mt. Washington (p 623). When tourists began to come to this region in considerable numbers, the Crawfords built a hotel on this spot, which was in its glory about 1840. The pool in front of the hotel is the source of the Saco river, which flows to the south through the Notch. Not half a mile north is the source of the Ammonoosuc, which flows north and then west to the Connecticut river (p 363). Mt. Willard (2786 ft) commands a far-famed view down the Notch and is easily ascended by a good carriage road. Near the top on the south side is the Devil's Den, a cavern accessible by ropes only. Hitchcock's Flume, 350 feet long and 50 feet wide, is reached by a path to the left a quarter mile from the summit. Bayard Taylor has said of the Notch: "As a simple picture of a mountain pass, seen from above, it cannot be surpassed in Switzerland." On the opposite side of the gateway rise Mt. Webster and Mt. Jackson, the southern sentinels of the Presi- dential Range. Mt. Field, named for Darby Field, who in 1642 made the first known ascent of Mt. Washington, is just to the south. Crawfords is a splendid center for excursions, such as the ascent of Mt. Washington, and climbs in and about the Presidential Range. The road from Crawfords to Bretton Woods descends a pleasant valley with the great Presidential Range spread out on the right and the Franconia Mountains on the left. The eleven great peaks of the Presidential Range form a line about fifteen miles long. From south to north the mountains are as follows: Webster (3875 ft), Jackson (4012 ft), Clinton (4275 ft), Pleasant (4775 ft), Franklin (5028 ft), Monroe (5396 ft), Washington (6293 ft). Clay (5533 ft), Jefferson (5725 ft), Adams (5805 ft), and Madison (5380 ft). About three miles from Crawfords, the Upper Falls of the Ammonoosuc river are reached by following the lefthand road past the monument to E. A. Crawford, one of the earliest set- tlers. The falls with their granite walls, water-worn basins, and mountain background form a long remembered scene. 95.0 BRETTON WOODS (p 622). R. 51. PORTLAND to POLAND SPRING, GORHAM, and BRETTON WOODS. 111.5 m. Via NORWAY, BETHEL, and TWIN MOUNTAIN, with detours to DIXVILLE NOTCH and to JEFFERSON. This beautiful route runs through the popular watering- place of Poland Spring, and across the hill country of Paris to Bethel, where it follows the Androscoggin river into the White Mountains, past Gorham to Bretton Woods or to Jefferson. The route is State Highway throughout, and National High- way for the most part. The roads are good gravel. From Portland to GRAY (17.0) follow Route 53 (p 757). Leaving Gray by the left fork in the center of the village, the road leads north through a hilly region past the hamlet of Dry Mills and the summer colony at SABBATH DAY LAKE (21.0) to 27.0 POLAND SPRING. Alt 593 ft. Pop (Poland twp) 1382. An- droscoggin Co. Settled 1779. This is one of the oldest watering places in the country. Its cluster of modern hotels and parklike grounds on Ricker Hill commands views of the Range lakes and the hills beyond. The settlement was established in 1779 and became a Shaker community in 1783, converted by a preacher from the original colony of Lebanon Springs, N.Y. (p 382). In 1794 Jabez Ricker, ancestor of the present family of hotel owners, obtained the property. The first tavern sign was hung out by Wentworth Ricker, son of Jabez, in 1797. The Maine State Building, originally erected at the Columbian Expo- sition in 1893, was re-erected here and serves as a library and art museum where an annual exhibition is held of the work of New York and New England artists. From Poland Spring the route leads between Middle Range and Lower Range Ponds and through the hamlet of Poland (30.0). Three miles to the north is Empire Grove, where ' Camp-meeting John ' Allen used to hold forth on hell-fire. Avoiding the right fork (to Mechanic Falls), half a mile beyond the route takes the center road at the triple fork, bear- ing right from the heavily traveled road. Note. - The left fork, with the main line of travel, leads through Webbs Mills (11.5), and Cooks Mills (15.0) to NAPLES (19. o) and Sebago and Long Lakes on Route 50 (p 744). Climbing Pigeon Hill, the route follows a ridge overlooking the busy industrial village of Mechanic Falls on the right and Thompson Lake on the left, on the western shore of which is Camp Ohuivo (p 811). Descending through the roadside ham- let of Welchville (36.5), the road crosses the Little Andros- coggin river and heads northwest up its valley to the edge of the village of NORWAY (42.5), where the route takes the right fork past the county fair grounds. (749) 75 NORWAY RANDOLPH NORWAY. Alt 387 ft. Pop (twp) 3002. Oxford Co. Settled 1786. Mfg. lumber products, ladies' shoes, and snowshoes. Norway is a pleasant little country village with small but varied industries. Its most notable plant is the snowshoe factory which made the shoes on which Peary and his party made their successful dash to the North Pole. Just to the northwest of the village lies Great Pennesseewassee Pond, nine miles long, with an irregular wooded shore line. 44.0 SOUTH PARIS. Alt 386 ft. Pop 1542. Shire town of Ox- ford Co. Settled 1779. Mfg. lumber and lumber products, toys, novelties, and canned goods. South Paris, a 'toy center of New England,' is a manufac- turing and mill village on the Little Androscoggin river, a mile and a half east of Norway. The Mason Mfg. Co. and the Paris Mfg. Co., which make toy furniture, are locally known as "Santa Claus's workshops" and are said to be worth visit- ing. To the north rises Paris Hill (803 ft) on which is the quiet hamlet of Paris, overlooking a splendid view of the White Mountains and the lake-dotted highlands between. Note. Paris Hill, well worth visiting for its view, is reached by forking right. This detour rejoins the main route by left fork on the further slope of the hill. The hill has a country club, maintaining golf links and ten- nis courts, and a notable old inn. The air here would seem to be especially adapted to political well-being, as this is the birthplace of several Congressmen, four Governors, Horatio King, Postmaster-general under Buchanan, and Hannibal Hamiin, Vice-president with Lincoln. The Hamlin birth- place on the left beyond the post office is still preserved. Paris Hill is also noteworthy as the site of Mt. Mica, famous for its tourmaline mines, discovered in 1820 by Elijah L. Hamlin, and worked intermittently for half a century. Green, pink, yellow, and blue crystals of great brilliance are found. Leaving South Paris, the route turns left at the square in the village center and forks to the right just beyond, passing the park on the left and taking the left fork a mile beyond. The main route continues up the valley of the Little Andros- coggin, following the middle road at the triple fork (48.5), and running close to the foot of the steep bluff of Stearns Hill (1000 ft) through Snows Falls (50.5). At the crossroads at Trap Corner (52.5) the route avoids the lefthand road, to West Paris, but takes the left fork just beyond and winds over the woody uplands, following the left fork (58.2) into the mill village of BRYANT POND (59.3). Here the road curves right, past the pond for which the village is named, and then between North and South Ponds, at the base of the foothills and past R. 51- PORTLAND TO BRETTON WOODS 751 the spool factories in LOCKE MILLS (63.0). To the left Mt. Abram (1960 ft) rises above a group of hills. The road fol- lows the Alder river and the R.R. down a pretty valley to the meadows on the bend of the Androscoggin river. 68.0 BETHEL. Alt 643 ft. Pop (twp) 834. Oxford Co. Settled 1774. Mfg. lumber and lumber products. The attractive old town of Bethel lies on a terrace above the broad intervales of the Androscoggin. It has a number of elm-arched streets, old houses, and a pleasant village green. Bethel has developed into a small summer resort on account of its fine situation and its mineral springs; it is a stage line terminus for several points in the region. There are several attractive estates on the Androscoggin meadows. This town was granted to veterans of the French and Indian Wars from Sudbury, Mass. The last Indian attack on a town in New England was made here in August, 1781, by a war party from Canada. Note. The road to Dixville Notch leads north from Bethel through wild and picturesque highlands, passing the unim- portant country villages of Newry (74.5), North Newry (79.5), Grafton (90.2), and Upton (95.5), crosses the New Hampshire line at the southern end of Lake Umbagog, and joins Route 42 at ERROL (105.0; p 718). From Bethel the route continues through the rich inter- vales of the Androscoggin valley with the White Mountains looming ever larger. The road follows the south bank through the tiny village of Gilead (78.2) and crosses Wild River. Two miles further on, it crosses the New Hampshire line, curving round the slopes of Mt. Moriah (4065 ft). This region to the left, genuine primitive backwoods, has been taken over by the Federal Government and opened to homesteaders. SHELBURNE (83.0) is a hamlet beautifully situated by the river at the gateway to the White Mountains. Shelburne was chartered by the British Crown in 1768. There was a proviso that all pine trees suitable for masts should be held for the royal navy. With its "Addition" of Gorham, it then formed the most northern frontier town, while all beyond was an unbroken forest through to the Canadian line. The road leads round Mt. Winthrop, a spur of Mt. Moriah. 90.0 GORHAM (p 717). Here the East Side State Highway, Route 42, with yellow markers, runs north to Dixville Notch and Colebrook. From Gorham the road continues westward to 95.5 RANDOLPH. Alt 1203 ft. Pop (twp) 137. Coos Co. The mountain hamlet of Randolph nestles in the valley of that name, hemmed in by Mt. Madison (5380 ft) and Mt. Adams (5805 ft) on the south, the Mt. Crescent, or Randolph, 752 RANDOLPH BRETTON WOODS range (330x2 ft) on the north, and the Carter range to the east. Just to the north is Randolph Mountain (3280 ft). This is a favorite tourist center, especially for pedestrians and those mountain lovers who wish to be in the very midst of the peaks. It is the starting point of trails to Mts. Madison, Adams, Jefferson, Washington, etc., the famous tramp along the summits of the Great Range. The guides of Randolph have the reputation of being the best in the district. From Randolph the route continues through the valley of the Moose river to the little settlement of Bowman (100.0) between the Randolph range and Mt. Bowman (3490 ft). Note. The right fork leads to Jefferson past the summer colony of Jefferson Highland (2.7) which has a fine situation at the base of Boy Mountain (2240 ft), the end of the Ran- dolph range. Here are excellent views of the Presidential Range. As the route continues Pliny Mountain (3625 ft), Mt. Waum- bek (4000 ft), and Mt. Starr King (3915 ft) are ahead. JEFFERSON (7.0; 1437 ft) stands on a spur of Mt. Starr King commanding the valley of Israel River. Cottage life has prob- ably been developed in Jefferson and in Jefferson Highland more than in many White Mountain resorts. The views of the northern side of the Presidential Range are justly celebrated. Says Starr King: "The White Mountain Range is so much grander when seen from Jefferson than from any other point where the whole of it is displayed." The summer colony here owes its creation largely to Starr King, who made the scenery widely known by his writings. Perhaps the most popular excursion is the ascent of Mt. Starr King (3915 ft), the southernmost summit of the Pilot range. The well-marked path to the top" (1^2 to 2^2 hrs.) starts near the Waumbek Hotel. Cherry Mountain (3600 ft) is also frequently ascended from here. The views of the Presidential Range from both of these peaks are unsurpassed. Jefferson was settled in 1772 by Colonel Joseph Whipple, who exercised a sort of patriarchal sway over the adjacent country. Once a year he went to Portsmouth to carry down the surplus products of the valley and to bring up supplies for his tenantry. Numerous quaint legends have lingered about this region of the mountains; the Skel- eton Indian in the Speaking Storm, the Magic Stone, the Lonely Hunter on Mt. Adam, and the Great Spirit, and others. The main route at Bowman forks to the left, following the attractive valley of Israel River to MEADOWS (97.3), a pretty little village with a most appropriate name. Here the route forks once more. The right fork leads to Whitefield (p 364). Following the left fork, the route leads to TWIN MOUNTAIN (106.3) an d follows Route 34 (p 621) to 111.5 BRETTON WOODS (p 622). R. 52. PORTLAND to AUBURN, FARMINGTON, and RANGELEY. 254.0 m. RETURNING via SKOWHEGAN to BANGOR. This route leads northward by the prosperous manufactur- ing cities of Auburn and Lewiston, up the Androscoggin valley to Livermore Falls, and thence through the woods to the vaca- tion land of the Rangeley Lakes, with its hunting and fishing. Returning by way of Flagstaff Lake and Dead River, the route crosses the Kennebec at Anson, and passes through the dairy country of Skowhegan to the Newport road and Bangor. The roads are State Highway throughout, except the section from Rangeley across to Anson, which is good county and town road. For Portland to Auburn, see Route 53 (p 757). R. 52 1. Portland to Farmington. 78.5 m. The road is a State Highway leading up the Androscoggin valley, about two miles from the river, to the industrial village of Livermore Falls and thence across the watershed to the Sandy River valley and the little town of Farmington. Following Route 53 (p 757) from Portland to Auburn (33-5)) t ne route leaves Auburn by Turner St., at the Court House, corner of Court St., following the trolley into Center St. and forking away from the river. At the village of East Auburn (37.0) is beautiful Lake Auburn on the left. The route follows trolley along the shore and past the Maine Fish Hatchery on the left, a mile beyond. At the fork (39.5), the route bears right, leaving trolley and climbing Poplar Hill. The left fork leads to North Auburn and East Hebron, where Camp Mowglis, for boys, is situated. The route follows the crest above the Androscoggin river, on the right, through HOWE'S CORNER (50.0). Five miles beyond, by Bartlett Pond, on the right, is The Norlands, the handsome Washburne estate. Half a century ago three Wash- burne brothers achieved distinction, one as Governor of Maine (1861-63), another as Minister to France (1869-76), and the third as Governor of Wisconsin (1871). A little fur- ther on, at the crossroads by Norland Church and the stone library (55.5), the route turns right and takes the next left- hand road, between the hills and past Long Pond, down to 61.0 LIVERMORE FALLS. Alt 388 ft. Pop (twp) 1110. An- droscoggin Co. Settled 1795. Indian name Rockamena, "great corn land." Mfg. paper, pulp, and barrels. Livermore Falls is an industrial village on the Androscoggin with paper and pulp mills. It is noted for fine breeds of cattle. The road turns left through the main street and follows the (753) 754 LIVERMORE FALLS RANGELEY river for two miles and a half, and then forking right, uphill, runs parallel to R.R. across a rolling country through the hamlet of North Jay (67.5), where there are large granite quarries, to the shopping center of WILTON (70.5; p 741). Irving J. McColl's Camp, Kineowatha, is located here (p 810). Passing the white building of the village Academy, on the right, the road still follows the course of the R.R. northward through the hamlet of East Wilton (73.5); where it crosses the tracks and bears left, beside R.R., into Sandy River valley. 78.5 FARMINGTON. Alt 368 ft. Pop (twp) 3210. Shire town of Franklin Co. Settled 1776. Mfg. lumber, lumber prod- ucts, canned corn, and apples. Farmington is an attractive old village with lumber and grist mills and canning factories. A tablet marks Fewacres, the home of the Rev. Jacob Abbott, a classmate of Longfellow (1803-79), the author of the "Rollo Books" and the "Fran- conia Stories." Farmington was the birthplace of the opera star Lillian Nordica. Route 49 from Bretton Woods to Bangor crosses here (p 741). R. 52 2. Farmington to Rangeley. 40.5 m. The route now enters a thinly settled region, ascending the Sandy river valley to Rangeley. The chief feature of this section of the route is the continuous panorama of lake and woodland. The road is gravel surfaced State Highway. From Madrid to Rangeley it winds uphill with sharp turns. From Farmington follow Main St., parallel to the narrow gauge R.R., crossing the river at Fairbanks (2.5) and running along the west bank to STRONG (n.o). Turn left beside the river and continue on the main road through the villages of Phillips (18.0) and MADRID (25.0). From Madrid the road is winding with sudden ascents. 40.5 RANGELEY. Alt 1521 ft. Pop (twp) 1154. Franklin Co. Settled 1817. Rangeley, the principal town of this region and a noted sum- mer resort, with the Rangeley Lake House and various camps, is situated at the eastern or lower end of Oquossoc or Rangeley Lake. Nine miles further on is Haynes Landing, another resort, on Lake Mooselookmeguntic. The first settler, Deacon Luther Hoar, came from Massachusetts and cleared a few acres on the north shore two miles west of the present village. In 1825, Squire James Rangeley, an Englishman, bought the township and gave his name- to the region. He built a sawmill and spent money on improvements in the fruitless attempt to form a domain on the English landlord system. Now most of the wild lands of the Rangeley Plantation are in the possession of the company which leases the camp sites. R. 52 3. RANGELEY TO BANGOR 755 This chain of half a dozen or more lakes, 1500 feet above the sea, extending over an area of 80 square miles, and con- nected by waterways, is probably the best known and most visited fishing ground of New England. Rangeley Lake, or Oquossoc, the northeasternmost of the group, is nine miles long and 1-3 miles wide. Little steamers ply from the town of Rangeley to various points on the lake. Next in order is Lake Mooselookmeguntic (8x2 m.), with camps and hotels at Haynes Landing, Bald Mountain Camps, the Birches, Bemis, Upper Dam, etc. Connected with this lake on the north is the smaller Lake Cupsuptic. Below the Upper Dam are lakes Molechunkamunk (Upper Richardson; 5 x 1-2 m.), and Welokenbacook (Lower Richardson; 5x1-2 m.). From the Middle Dam on the west side of this latter, a road leads to Lake Umbagog (9 x 1-2 m.; 1256 ft), connecting with Errol Dam and the Dixville Notch (R. 34). From Errol, little steamers run up the Magalloway river to (30.0) Lake Parma- chenee (2500 ft), a fishing resort in the midst of a wild country. R. 52 3. Rangeley to Bangor. 135.0 m. Via STRATTON and SKOWHEGAN. For the first sixty miles this route lies along the border of the great Maine wilderness with its vast forests of pine and spruce. STRATTON is the center of the Dead river region, a sportsman's country of beautiful lakes and streams. The towns of Stratton and Eustis with good hotel accommodations are the centers of this region, and guides may be obtained here for hunting and fishing trips. The route follows town and county roads, nearly all of them excellent, either gravel or dirt surface. The vast forested area of Maine, one of the great lumber regions of the world, covers 20,000 square miles, seven times larger than the Black Forest of Germany. "The States of Rhode Island, Connecti- cut, and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still have about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." Says Sylvester Baxter: "Maine's magnificent wilderness, woods and rivers, hills, lakes, and clear-running streams, is a great natural playground for the country at large. But these things mean more than play, they mean great industrial possibilities under modern conditions. More than five thousand rivers and streams, with more than fifteen hundred lakes for their reservoirs, stand for vast possibil- ities in the way of power." The route leaves Rangeley by Pleasant St., turning right at the school house on the left, and crossing narrow gauge R.R. After crossing the bridge (5.5), the route turns left at the cross- roads and crosses the tracks six times in as many miles. At the end of the road (15.0), the route turns right and enters the 756 RANGELEY SKOWHEGAN village of STRATTON (20.0), from which many good roads radiate through the Dead river country. Bearing left in front of the school house, the road continues past the fair grounds and turns right at the school and the Flagstaff signpost (24.3). 31.0 FLAGSTAFF. Alt 1400 ft. Pop (Plantation} 149. This hamlet was named to commemorate the encampment of the Quebec expedition under Benedict Arnold, in 1775, who erected the national standard here. Half a mile out of the village the route forks right and turns left at the sign post a quarter mile beyond. At DEAD RIVER (40.0), the route takes the left fork and eight miles beyond crosses the height of land between the Sandy and the Dead rivers, descending rather steeply for three miles. Passing through Lexington (53.5), the route forks right, six miles beyond, and again two miles further on, and goes straight through NORTH NEW PORTLAND (62.0). The township was given to sufferers of Portland to indemnify them for the de- struction of the city by the British (p 682) in 1783; hence its name. The route now meets the Carrabassett river and follows its north bank to 71.0 NORTH ANSON. Alt 330 ft. Pop (twp) 2209. Somerset Co. Settled 1798. Stock breeding. Mjg. lumber and canned corn. This riverside town lies in the meadows a mile west of the junction of the Carrabassett and Kennebec rivers. The numer- ous stock farms make it a horse and cattle trading center. At the end of the street the route turns left three blocks and then right, at the church. Crossing the Kennebec, it leads eastward over low hills to 83.5 SKOWHEGAN (R. 55, p 784). Route 55 (p 784) leads south to Augusta and Portland. Route 49 (p 740) leads west to the White Mountains. The route follows Water St., past the municipal buildings, and leads eastward, leaving the Kennebec, through a pretty farming country interspersed with patches of woodland. A mile and a half beyond Lake George, on the left, it passes through the crossroads village of Canaan (92.0), and then continues straight on over the hills through the quiet little town of Palmyra (103.7) to NEWPORT (108.0), where it joins Route 53 (p 760) for BANGOR (135.0). R. 53. PORTLAND to AUGUSTA, WATERVILLE, and BANGOR. 140.0 m. Via AUBURN, BELGRADE LAKES, and the KENNEBEC. The route follows State and National Highways through a pleasant farming country over good dirt roads with no heavy grades. Among the chief points of interest are the industrial centers of Auburn and Lewiston on the Androscoggin, the lovely Belgrade Lakes, Augusta, the State Capital, and Bangor, one of the world's great lumber markets. The route leaves Portland by way of Washington Ave. and Tukey Bridge, keeping to the left along Washington Ave. in the suburban village of East Deering, just across the bridge, and passing through North Deering (4.0), a quiet roadside village, where the road heads north, and continues through West Falmouth (7.0) to 17.0 GRAY. Alt 300 ft. Pop (twp) 1270. Cumberland Co. Set. 1750. At this quiet village on the upland meadows, the route keeps on past the Soldiers' Monument. Camp Minnewawa, a summer camp for boys, is located near here. The left fork leads to Poland Spring (p 749). Taking the left fork at the Lewiston sign post, a quarter mile beyond, the road continues northward through the hamlet of North Gray (19.5), and a mile and three quarters further on, forks left through wood- land, climbing over Gloucester Hill into Upper Gloucester (24.5), a crossroads village. Here the route forks to the right over the hill to Danville Junction (27.0) where it crosses and bears to the left, between the R.R. station and the Post Office. Following the R.R. tracks, it soon enters 33.5 AUBURN. Alt 183 ft. Pop 15,064. Shire town of Andros- coggin Co. Settled 1786. Mfg. shoes and cotton. Auburn is a shoe city on the Androscoggin opposite Lewiston with which it forms an industrial center. This is the fourth largest manufacturing center in the State and about three quarters of the wage earners are engaged in the shoe industry. Auburn took its name from the village in Goldsmith's poem "The Deserted Village." Four steel bridges across the Androscoggin connect Auburn with Lewiston, and from the bridges there is the best view of the falls. Route 52 (p 753) branches here for the Rangeley Lakes. 34.0 LEWISTON. Alt 190 ft. Pop 26,247; one third foreign-born. largely French-Canadian. Androscoggin Co. Settled 1770. Mfg. cotton, woolens, and shoes. Lewiston, the second city in Maine, the center of cotton manufacturing in the State and the seat of Bates College, lies at the great falls of the Androscoggin. The river breaks over (757) 758 LEWISTON AUGUSTA a ledge of schist and pegmatite with a natural fall of forty feet which is increased to over fifty feet by a strong granite dam, and the resulting power is distributed by canals. At Deer Rips, three miles above the city, a cement dam more than 1000 feet long furnishes 10,000 hydro-electric horsepower. Lewiston produces a third of the cotton goods of the State. There is a fine City Hall with a lofty tower, a Carnegie Library, and a Soldiers' Monument in bronze by Franklin Simmons, known for his statues of Roger Williams, U.S. Grant, and others in the National Capitol. Leaving Lewiston by way of Main St., the route leads north- ward through a somewhat hilly country, following the highway through the village of Greene (42.0), striking to the left away from the R.R. a mile and a half beyond. The route climbs up past the Maine Agricultural Experi- ment Station, at Highmoor Farm (46.5) on Norris Hill, and crosses a country dotted with lakes and ponds. The road winds downward to S4.3 WINTHROP. Alt 221 ft. Pop (twp) 2114. Kennebec Co. Settled 1765. Mfg. oilcloth and woolens. Winthrop, in the midst of a beautiful lake country, is the center of a noted apple-growing region. The village is on a neck between Lake Maranacook, nine miles long and one mile wide, and Lake Annabessacook, both with lovely winding shores and dotted with picturesque islands. Called Pond Town by the early trappers because of the many lakes, it was, on incorporation in 1771, named in honor of Governor Winthrop of Massachusetts. Turning to the right, across R.R., and through the village, the route continues eastward past Lake Cobbosseecontee, a good trout and bass lake, and part of the chain which com- prises Belgrade Lakes, Maranacook, Cobbosseecontee, and Pleasant Ponds, all of which find an outlet into the Kennebec river. Camp Cobbossee, for boys, is located here. The route next goes straight through the crossroads village of Manchester (60.0), and follows the main road into 64.5 AUGUSTA. Alt 47 ft. Pop 13,211. Capital of the State , and shire town of Kennebec Co. Settled 1754. Mfg. cotton, shoes, paper, and wood pulp. Steamboats connect daily with Bath and Boston. Augusta, a manufacturing center, lies on both sides of the Kennebec (p 767) on a series of terraces. The river here is spanned by a bridge noo feet long. Half a mile above the city is the huge Kennebec Dam which provides waterpower for its factories. The city publishes many periodicals, mostly of the type which finds a wide circulation in rural communities. R. 53. PORTLAND, AUGUSTA, WATERVILLE, BANGOR 759 The State House (1831) on State St. was designed by Charles Bulfinch. It is constructed of local granite and in its main features it resembles the Boston State House. The lofty dome (185 ft) and the wings were added in 1910. Beyond, on the same side of the street, is the house which was formerly occupied by James G. Blaine, the statesman. The handsome new granite residence of Governor Hill on State St. cost $300,000. Among the older places is the Ruel Williams house of 1800, where President Polk was entertained in 1847 when he visited Augusta with James Buchanan. The most inter- esting building historically, however, is Fort Western, erected in 1754, the main part of which still stands at the east end of the bridge opposite the City Hall, marked by a tablet. The old Britt house on the west bank of the river was built by a Hessian soldier at the close of the Revolution, and the seventh generation now occupies it. On the east side of the river are the State Insane Asylum and the Kennebec Arsenal. About five miles to the southeast of the city is Togus Springs, formerly a summer resort, but since 1866 the site of a Soldiers' Home which accommodates more than 2000. It has become a notorious resort for rumsellers who prey on the veterans. The river was explored to this point in 1607. The city occupies the site of the Indian village of Koussinoc at which the Plymouth Com- pany located a trading post in 1628. In 1661 the Plymouth Company sold its interests and soon afterward the purchasers abandoned the post, but in 1754 their heirs brought about the erection of Fort West- ern, a part of which is still standing. The settlement was originally a part of Hallo well, but in 1797 it was separated from that town and named Harrington, and later in the same year the name was changed to Augusta. In 1827 it was chosen by the Maine Legislature to be the capital, but it was not occupied as such until the completion of the State House in 1831. Alternate Route to Waterville via the Belgrade Lakes. 23.0 m. From Augusta to Waterville a State Road three and a half miles longer than the main route leads by the beautiful Bel- grade Lakes. Leaving Augusta by State St. and continuing along Mt. Vernon Ave., the route turns left along Bond Brook Road, on the edge of the city, and passes through the village of BELGRADE (n.o), on the swampy border of Messalonskee Lake. On Blake's Island is Camp Belgrade, for boys. The road forks right for Waterville, a mile beyond. The left fork leads to Belgrade Lakes, eight miles away. THE BELGRADE LAKES, seven in number, are famous for their bass fishing and also as the center of a summer life which is even more important than the spring invasion of the sports- men. The village of Belgrade Lakes is a hotel center on the neck of land between Great Pond, the largest of the chain, eleven miles long, and Long Pond, further west. There are 760 AUGUSTA BANGOR many popular summer camps for boys and girls on the shores of the lakes. On Great Pond are Camps Merryweather and Pine Island, for boys, and Runoia and Abena, for girls (p 810). Further north, on Salmon Lake, are Camp Kennebec, for boys, and Glen Eyrie, for girls. A Fish Hatchery has been estab- lished here which stocks the region with trout and salmon. The route follows the ridge above Messalonskee through the village of Oakland, turning right to Waterville (23.0). The main route leaves Augusta by way of Grove and Bridge Sts., crossing the Kennebec river and turning north along the riverbank past the waterpower dam half a mile above the city, and through the village of Vassalboro (76.5), the home of Camp Minnewawa, for girls (p 814). At Winslow (82.7), where there is a Colonial blockhouse, Fort Halifax (1754), the route crosses the river again into 84.0 WATERVILLE. Alt 112 ft. Pop 11,458. Kennebec Co. Settled 1764. Mfg. cotton and woolens, paper and pulp, furniture, machinery, and flour. Waterville is a thriving manufacturing city at the Ticonic Falls on the Kennebec. The town is built for the most part upon a broad plain above the river, and is the home of Colby College, founded in 1813, a Baptist institution with about 450 students. General Ben Butler (1818-93) was an alumnus. Leaving Waterville by Main St., the route leads northward past Colby College to 87. S F AIRFIELD. Alt 117 ft. Pop 2801. Somerset Co. Settled 1774. Mfg. lumber, worsted, pulp, and furniture. Here the road crosses the Kennebec once more, turning left and then right at R.R. crossing, and a mile and a half beyond turning left through the scattered village of Benton (90.0) and following the Sebasticook river to Clinton (94.0). Eight miles east of Clinton at Unity is Camp Winnecook (p 811). The route continues up the river valley to the little industrial town of Pittsfield (106.5), not named for the English statesman (P 386), but for a native plutocrat of a century ago. It is the home of the Maine Central Institute. Woolens are manu- factured here. Llewellyn Powers, one of Maine's eminent lawyers, who was Governor and also Congressman, lived in the old Powers homestead near the high road. Crossing two bridges, the road turns right on Grove St., and climbs over the hills, keeping to the left of R.R., to 114.0 NEWPORT. Alt 195 ft. Pop (twp) 1747. Penobscot Co. Settled 1808. Mfg. woolens, condensed milk, and veneer. The town is picturesquely located on the shores of Sebasti- cook Lake, which is famous as a fishing resort and has many camps and cottages on its shores. Route 56 (p 786) forks here. R. 53 PORTLAND, AUGUSTA, WATERVILLE, BANGOR 761 The road from here to Bangor is State Highway recently constructed. It follows the course of the R.R., passing through the villages of Etna (112.0), Carmel (125.5), an d Hermon (132.5) to 140.0 BANGOR. Alt 20 ft. Pop 24,803. Penobscot Co. Settled 1769. Port of Entry. Mfg. lumber, foundry products, shoes, woolens, paper, and pulp. Steamboats connect daily with Bucksport, Belfast, Camden, Rockland, and Boston. Bangor, the third city in Maine, and next to Chicago the greatest lumber depot in the country, with annual shipments of about 200,000,000 feet, has a fine situation at the confluence of the Kenduskeag with the Penobscot (p 788). The business portion of the city lies along the banks of the Kenduskeag and for three miles along the west bank of the Penobscot, and there are a number of fine residences on the hillsides further back. The Penobscot furnishes good waterpower and in addition to the lumber mills there are iron foundries, shoe factories, and shipyards. Bangor is the center of some for- eign commerce, of a considerable coasting trade, and in winter ships quantities of ice cut on the Penobscot. The tide rises here 17 feet and makes the Penobscot navigable for large ves- sels to this point. A bridge 1300 feet long connects the city with Brewer (pop 5667), on the eastern bank. Bangor is a well built city and contains a number of old residences, the most interesting of which is the former home of Hannibal Hamlin, vice-president with Lincoln. Here are the buildings of the Bangor Theological Seminary, opened in Hampden in 1817 and moved to Bangor three years later. A great fire in 1911 caused $4,000,000 damage and since then the city has been rebuilt upon a more substantial scale with a far smaller proportion of wooden buildings. The Federal Building and the Public Library (1913) and the High School, all recently built, are worth seeing. The Eastern Maine Music Festival is held here in October. There is very attractive scenery up the Kenduskeag stream, especially at Lover's Leap, a mile above the city. At the Bangor salmon pool on the Penobscot, a mile upstream, salmon are taken on the fly, probably the only place in the country where it is possible to do this within city limits. The lumber industry has declined somewhat in recent years, but 150-200 million feet of lumber (mostly spruce) are still annually surveyed here. In the spring the log drives from the vast forests of northern Maine finally bring up at the Penobscot 'boom,' some miles above Old Town, where the logs are sorted and rafted. Above the city there are waterpower sawmills, and at Brewer and below the city are steam mills. 762 BANGOR According to some antiquarians Bangor is the site of Norumbega, that elusive city of the Norsemen. At the time of the early colonists, it was one of the principal camping grounds of the Tarratine Indians, the leading tribe of this part of Maine, over whom Baron St. Castine later became chief (p 774). Authentic history begins here in 1769 with the arrival of the first white settlers, and the place was called Conduskeag from the Indian name of the locality. It was incor- porated in 1791, and through the influence of the Rev. Seth Noble, the first pastor, the town was called Bangor, the name of one of the clergyman's favorite hymns. In September, 1814, a British force occupied the town for several days and destroyed the shipping in the harbor. It was chartered as a city in 1834. Two years later, the first railway in Maine was constructed between Bangor and Old Town. Route 57 (p 788) leads up Ihe Penobscot to Houlton. Note. From Bangor a 27-mile run leads to Ellsworth, whence routes lead to Bar Harbor, Calais, or westward along the coast to Portland, etc. The road crosses the Penobscot and leads straight through Brewer, out into a beautiful hill and lake country. The route then leads through the pretty hill village of East Holden (9.0) and by Phillips Lake, a little summer resort. About half a mile beyond on the left is a watering trough with a fine spring of drinking water. Passing Green Lake (15.0) on the shore of which is a U.S. Fish Hatchery, the route bears left at fork in the hamlet of North Ellsworth (20.0), and climbs a slight hill to ELLSWORTH (27.0). For Mt. Desert and Bar Harbor, see Route 54 (p 776), and also for the routes to Calais or to Portland. R. 54. PORTLAND to CALAIS. 245.0 m. Along the Maine Coast. Via BATH, CAMDEN, BELFAST, BUCKSPORT, ELLSWORTH, WIN- TER HARBOR, and MACHIAS, with detours to BOOTHBAY, CASTINE, BAR HARBOR, and EASTPORT. This is Maine's chief highway, following the coast and leading to the many summer resorts and the Maritime Prov- inces beyond. The coast is so deeply indented that the road necessarily runs for most of its course well inland, crossing the heads of the deepest estuaries. No other route affords such a combination of rocky shore and mountain scenery. The route passes through Bath, famous as a shipbuilding center; Brunswick, the home of Bowdoin College; Rockland, with its huge lime kilns and views over Penobscot Bay; and through the mountain scenery of Camden. Detours from the direct route lead to Old Castine, historically perhaps one of the most interesting spots in America; to Mt. Desert and Bar Harbor, America's most aristocratic summer resort. This route is a part of the National Highway system and except for the brief stretch from Prospect to Ellsworth, the route follows throughout its course State Highway, most of which has recently been reconstructed by the State Highway Commission constituted by the Legislature in 1913. It is proposed to name this the Hannibal Hamlin Highway, in honor of the most distinguished member of the Hamlin family of Paris, Me., Vice-President in Lincoln's administration. The Maine coast extends northeast and southwest, 225 miles in a straight line, but its deeply embayed and islanded shores have a length of nearly 2500 miles. Its "hundred-harbored" shore is broken by the great bays of Casco, Penobscot, and Passamaquoddy with innu- merable smaller inlets. The Maine coast is one of the best examples of what the geologists call "a drowned coast." This is due to the subsidence of the land so that the sea has encroached on the eroded river valleys. The subsidence of the coast has transformed the rock ridges running longitudinally north and south into long, finger-like head- lands, often cut off as separate islands, between which deep, narrow fjords extend far into the land along the old river valleys. R. 54 1. Portland to Ellsworth. 145.0 m. The route runs along the shore of Casco Bay, past Falmouth, the sandy shore of which has long been known as "Falmouth Foreside," thence inland through the academic town of Bruns- wick on the Androscoggin river. The Kennebec is crossed at Bath by means of a steam ferry. At Wiscasset a long bridge crosses tidewater over the Sheepscot river, and the scenery becomes more interesting on through Damariscotta. From Rockland the Highway follows the shore of Penobscot Bay (763) 764 PORTLAND BRUNSWICK northward to Belfast and Prospect, where the route leaves the State Highway, which continues on to Bangor, and crosses the Penobscot to Bucksport. From Bucksport a detour to the south leads to Castine. At Ellsworth the State and National Highways are rejoined. From Portland to Brunswick the road is recently constructed bituminous macadam, using Standard Macadam Asphalt Binder (p 827), built by the State Highway Commission with Federal aid. From Brunswick on to Prospect the road has been almost wholly reconstructed within the last two years. From Prospect to Ellsworth a short cut of twenty miles fol- lows county and town State Aid roads. The longer route via Bangor follows State roads throughout (p 788). Leaving Portland by Washington Ave. and Tukey's Bridge, the route turns right on Veranda St. in the suburban village of East Deering (2.0). The route passes the U.S. Marine Hos- pital on the right and then crosses the long wooden Martin Point bridge. From here the road follows the crest of a ridge commanding beautiful views of the island-studded Casco Bay. 6.0 FALMOUTH FORESIDE. Alt 48 ft. Pop (twp) 1488. Falmouth Foreside and the adjacent Cumberland Foreside are fashionable summer colonies finely situated on the shores of Casco Bay (p 686). Falmouth was the name of the town cf Portland until it was incorporated under its present name in 1786. Two miles beyond Cumberland Foreside the road curves left and descends to 11.5 YARMOUTH. Alt 87 ft. Pop (twp) 2358. Cumberland Co. Settled 1690-1721. Mfg. wood pulp and cotton bags; sardines. Yarmouth, a handsome old town commanding fine views of the bay, was formerly a shipbuilding center. It is now a famous summer resort, Priners Point and Drinkwaters Point having large summer hotels. The whole town's water supply is from one pure spring, equaling Poland Spring in quality. Here was the home and burial place of old Joe Wier, the famous Indian Scout of 1680-1700. Out across the bay on the peninsula is the resort of Harps- well, and beyond, Orrs Island (p 687). The route crosses the Royal river and heads northeast to 17.5 FREEPORT. Pop (twp) 2460, village 965. Cumberland Co. Settled 1688-1721. Mfg. shoes; fish. Freeport, now a summer resort, was a shipbuilding center in the palmy days of American commerce. At the present time the inhabitants are engaged to some extent in ship- building, in the coasting trade, and the manufacture of shoes. R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 765 Here stands the old tavern where the convention was held in 1820 which separated Maine from Massachusetts. Continuing straight through the village, the route crosses and recrosses R.R., and enters 26.2 BRUNSWICK. Alt 63 ft. Pop 6621. Cumberland Co. Set- tled 1628. Indian name Pejepscot. Mfg. cotton and paper. Brunswick, the seat of Bowdoin College, is at the head of tidewater on the Androscoggin river. The town is built prin- cipally on three broad parallel streets above the river, and in Topsham, a village across the river, are hills and bluffs which afford good views (p 783). BOWDOIN COLLEGE (450 students) is about a mile from the river, on Maine St., and occupies a beautiful campus of forty acres. The college was named for James Bowdoin, an ardent patriot, and Governor of Massachusetts, and was incorporated in 1794, although it did not actually go into operation until 1802. The most interesting of the buildings are Massachu- setts Hall, an eighteenth century structure; the Chapel; Hubbard Hall, the Library; the Walker Art Building and the Science Building. The Chapel is built of rough granite in the Romanesque style and has twin towers with spires 120 feet high. The Walker Art Building in Italian Renaissance style is adorned with mural decorations by Elihu Vedder, John LaFarge, Kenyon Cox, and Abbott Thayer, and contains the famous Bowdoin art collections bequeathed to the college by James Bowdoin, the son of Governor Bowdoin. This includes portraits of Madison and Jefferson by Gilbert Stuart, and examples of Rubens and Rembrandt, and of modern art. At the rear of the campus is a beautiful pine grove. Among the notable alumni of Bowdoin are Longfellow, Hawthorne, Peary, the discoverer of the North Pole, President Franklin Pierce, and Melville W. Fuller, former Chief Justice of the U.S. Supreme Court. Longfellow was a professor at Bowdoin, 1820-35, and Pro- fessor Stowe taught here 1850-52, during which time Mrs. Stowe wrote "Uncle Tom's Cabin." Three historic houses of Brunswick are usually visited, the house where Longfellow lived while a professor, the Haw- thorne house, and the house where "Uncle Tom's Cabin" was written all situated on Federal St. Also on Federal St. is the Governor Robert Dunlap house, of substantial Colonial architecture. The Brunswick Historical Society has an interesting collection in an ancient building on School St. The Androscoggin river at Brunswick falls forty-one feet in three stages, providing power for paper and cotton mills and a few other industries. The first cotton mill in Maine was built here in 1809. Seven miles northwest of Brunswick, on the Androscoggin, is Shiloh, 766 BRUNSWICK WOOLWICH the home of the "Holy Ghost and Us Society," which was organized a few years ago by F. W. Sanford. This society furnishes one of the most interesting chapters in modern religious history. The people turned over both their property and families to the society, with the result that many of them speedily came to want. Finally Sanford procured a yacht on which the Shilohites started out to convert the world. It ran out of provisions, many died, and as a result of his criminal negligence Sanford is now serving a sentence in. the Federal prison at Atlanta. Brunswick was settled by fishermen under a patent from Plymouth. In 1676 it was destroyed by the Indians and afterward rebought of certain local chiefs. In 1715 Fort George was built on the west side of the Androscoggin at the lower falls and was long known as the "key of Western Maine." The town, however, was subjected to several other disastrous Indian attacks. In 1730 it was incorporated by the General Court of Massachusetts and received the name of Brunswick in honor of the ruling house in England. Route 55, to Augusta and Bangor, branches off here through the old village of Topsham across the river (p 783). The route leaves Brunswick by Maine St., turning left at Bowdoin College campus and parallels R.R. for two miles and a half, passing the old Merrymeeting Park on the left. The route crosses the R.R. at the station (30.0) and takes the middle road along the banks of the Androscoggin. Curving right, the road crosses New Meadow River, and a mile further on crosses R.R. at a dangerous curve. Following trolley, the route continues through North, Middle, and Oak Sts., with charming vistas down steep, shady streets to the river below, to Commercial St., on the bank of the Kennebec, in 35.0 BATH. Alt 7 ft. Pop (twp) 9396. Shire town of Sagadahoc Co. Settled 1660. Mfg. ships, ship fittings, machinery, and lumber. Steamboats connect with Boothbay Harbor and Boston. Bath, a city and port of entry on the west bank of the Kennebec, twelve miles from its mouth, is the shipbuilding center of Maine. Several of the ships of the U.S. Navy have been constructed here, including the battleship "Georgia," the scout cruiser "Chester," and a number of our fastest torpedo boats. The city extends for about five miles along the Kennebec, rising in elm-shaded terraces from the river. Elmhurst, the handsome new estate of John S. Hyde, the president of the Bath Iron Works, is on High St. Emma Eames, the famous soprano, is perhaps the most distinguished resident of the city. Three miles up the Kennebec is Booth- bay Camp for boys. The site of Bath was first visited by Captain Weymouth in 1605. It remained a part of Georgetown till 1781, when it was incorporated and named after the city in England. In 1789 it became a port of entry and in 1847 was chartered as a city. Formerly, its prosperity largely came from the building of wooden ships, but this type has been superseded in great part by iron and steel construction. R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 767 The long peninsulas and narrow islands below Bath have great his- toric interest on account of their early settlements, and are now much frequented in summer. Arrowsic, a pleasant little island town, was settled in 1661 and destroyed by an Indian attack in 1723. Champlain, in 1605, claimed the region at the mouth of the Kennebec for France, and Captain Weymouth a few weeks later declared the soil English. In 1607 George Popham and a company from London and Plymouth established the first New England colony which held the first American service of the Church of England and built the first American ship, the "Virginia." Here, likewise, was held the first New England town meeting. This catalog of 'first things' ends with the burial of Pop- ham, the first Englishman to rest in New England soil. The wretched colonists who "had found nothing but extreme extremity" in the severe winter and the hostility of the natives, abandoned Fort St. George .and its fifty houses and sailed back to England. Popham's name is preserved by the seaside resort of Popham on the splendid bathing beach, near an old stone fort at the river's mouth. Leaving Bath the Kennebec is crossed by the Bath-Wool- wich ferry, off Commercial St. (50 cents for car and driver; passengers 5 cents each). The KENNEBEC, 140 miles long, is the second largest river in Maine and the outlet of Moosehead Lake. In addition to its log-driving facilities, it supplies 64,000 h.p. and could pro- duce far more under systematic development. The Andros- coggin flows into it about five miles above Bath. In pioneer days it was the principal line of overland travel for the French who ascended the Chaudiere river from Quebec and crossed the narrow watershed to the Kennebec headwaters. Until 1700 it was the boundary usually observed between the Eng- lish and French domains. 35. 5 WOOLWICH. Alt 8 ft. Pop (twp) 868. Sagadahoc Co. Settled 1638-1734. Woolwich is a picturesque old village on the Kennebec opposite Bath. The environs are attractive and in the older portion there is a church built in 1754 and a very old mill. The town was settled in 1638 on the Indian lands of Nequasset and practically wiped out by an Indian attack of 1676. Fifty years later it was resettled and in 1759 incorporated as Woolwich, so named from a supposed resemblance of the Kennebec river at this point to the Thames at Woolwich. William Phips was born here in 1651 and was a shepherd on these hills. As a young man he went to Boston where he learned to read and write and became a trader. Marrying for wealth, he built ships of his own and in i687_ recovered $1,500,000 in jewels and bars of gold from a sunken Spanish treasure ship near the Bahamas. He was knighted by the king and received $80,000 as his share of the treasure. He commanded the expedition of 1690, which took Port Royal from the French, and from 1692 to 1694 was Governor of Massachusetts, taking a prominent part in suppressing the witchcraft prosecutions. Phips was one of the first of American 'self-made men,' and more than any one else deserves to be called the founder of New England shipping. From W r oolwich the route follows R.R. for half a mile and 768 WOOLWICH WALDOBORO then swings to the right, across the marshes and then over Nequasset Brook. It keeps to the right of R.R. while crossing a long, low hill and then crosses the tracks (40.5) and a brook. From here the road follows the loo-foot ridge above the estu- aries of Sheepscot River into 45.0 WISCASSET. Alt 11 ft. Pop (twp) 1287. Shire town of Lincoln Co. Settled 1663. Port of entry. Coasting trade and summer resort. Steamers connect daily with Boothbay Harbor. Wiscasset is a pleasant old village on the Sheepscot river about twelve miles from the sea in a region of summer resorts. The widening of the river at this point forms a good harbor and a century or more ago Wiscasset was a flourishing center of the coasting trade. The tree-lined streets contain a number of Colonial houses dating from the period of early prosperity. Most interesting is the old Colonial blockhouse, seen on the right, after crossing the longest wooden bridge in Maine to NORTH EDGECOMB (46.5). This sleepy little town was a thriving seaport in the old days. The scenery is very attractive and there are many historic houses. The Marie Antoinette house was one of those destined to receive the BLOCKHOUSE, EDGECOMB unfortunate queen had she been rescued from the Bastille and brought to America. The Cochrane house contains a collection of Oriental curios brought home by Ezekiel Percy, an oldtime sea captain. About fifteen miles to the south lies the beautiful summer resort of BOOTHBAY HARBOR, one of the early peninsula towns, famous as a rendezvous of yachtsmen. Visited by Wey mouth, 1605, it was settled in 1630, destroyed in 1688 and re-established in 1730. Boothbay is the home of the Commonwealth Art Colony, a 'back to nature' community who have pitched their cottages, tents, and tree- huts on a hilltop above the village. The U.S. Government maintains a lobster hatchery at Boothbay Harbor. Off the coast is the favorite resort of Squirrel Island. Two genera- tions ago this was the summer camping ground of families from up river, now controlling the modern holiday settlement. At the top of a steep little hill in North Edgecomb the route turns to the left. The right fork leads to Boothbay. A mile beyond, the route turns to the right at the crossroads in tne hollow and heads northeast, with R.R. half a mile to the left the rest of the way|to R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 769 54.0 NEWCASTLE. Alt 89 ft. Pop (twp) 1066. Lincoln Co. Settled 1640-1730. Mfg. lumber products; shipbuilding. Steamboat daily for East Boothbay and Christmas Cove. Newcastle is a tree-shaded village on the Damariscotta river with shipbuilding interests and several summer colonies. Traces have been found of the early settlement, probably destroyed by the French. Two subsequent settlements were destroyed by the Indians and it was not until 1730 that danger from attack was over. On the riverbank at Glidden's Point, a mile above the town, are the Oyster Mounds, huge shell heaps overgrown with trees and shrubs. Many of the oyster shells that can still be separated from the mass of lime are nine inches long. The larger mounds are called the Whaleback and the Peninsula. 54.3 DAMARISCOTTA. Alt 15 ft. Pop (twp) 771. Damariscotta, a companion town to Newcastle, is a minor summer resort. The lumber industries still have some impor- tance and there is a good deal of fertile farm land about here. The pioneers, an overflow from the Pemaquid settlement, arrived in 1640. This remained a part of the Pemaquid patent until 1778, and then a part of Nobleboro until it was incorporated as a separate town in 1847. It was named for Damarine, Sachem of Sagadahoc, called Robin Hood by the English, who in the early settlers' day held sway over all of this country. The natives speak of the town as "Scottie." Note. From Damariscotta, an interesting excursion leads to Pemaquid, the Indian name for "long point," about fifteen miles to the south on a rocky promontory. This was prob- ably the most important of the early settlements on the coast and vies with Castine in historic interest. Here are the remains of Fort Frederick, built by Sir William Phips in 1692, and other interesting ruins. At Pemaquid, Samoset, the friend of Plymouth, held sway and learned from the English fishermen the "Welcome, Englishmen," with which he happily surprised the Pilgrims in 1620. Ten miles out to sea is the little island of Monhegan, inhabited for more than two centuries by a hardy race of fisherfolk of primitive customs. Leaving Damariscotta by the left fork at the bandstand, and the right fork just beyond, the route takes the left a mile further on and then leads straight by the main road through 59.0 NOBLEBORO. Alt 68 ft. Pop (twp) 775. Lincoln Co. Set- tled 1692. Nobleboro is a quiet country village near several summer resorts. Skirting the head of Pemaquid Pond, on the right, and run- ning through Glendon (61.0), the road leads past Duck Puddle Pond and three miles beyond crosses the Medomak river to 64.5 WALDOBORO. Pop (twp) 2656. Lincoln Co. Settled 1748. Mfg. lumber products; shipbuilding. Waldoboro is a well-kept village with a fine maple-shaded 7 7 WALDOBORO ROCKPORT main street. Among the old houses perhaps the finest is the Reed mansion, built by a prominent shipbuilding family a century ago. Waldoboro was named for General Waldo, who settled the peninsulas with Germans and Scotch-Irish. The route goes straight across the town and up the hill away from the river. Taking the right fork a quarter mile up the hillside, the route crosses R.R. half a mile further on. At the end of the road, two miles beyond, the route turns left and then follows the main road through WEST WARREN and SOUTH WARREN (71.0), which are outlying villages of the town of Warren, a trading post in 1631. but not settled till 1736, by Scotch-Irish. At the main village is waterpower, with a woolen and a shoe factory. The scenery here becomes rugged in character with outcrops of the limestone for which the vicinity of Rockland is famous. In South Warren the route turns to the left. The road straight on leads to the fine old seacoast village of Friendship. Crossing an old wooden bridge over the St. George's river, the route passes the Maine State Prison, on the right. 76.5 THOMASTON. Pop (twp) 2205. Knox Co. Settled 1720. Mfg. ship and boat building. Steamers connect daily with Friendship and Boothbay Harbor. Thomaston, a beautiful old town in the limestone region, lies on St. George's River, here a picturesque harbor. The first landing in New England was made here by the English in 1605, when the explorer Weymouth and his party ascended St. George's River and marched overland to the mountains immediately north. A huge boulder with a bronze tablet reciting these facts is on the Thom- aston Mall. In 1630 it became a trading post and in 1720 a fort was built here near the present railway station and sustained several furious attacks of the Tarratine Indians. Toward the end of the eighteenth century this tract of land came into the possession of General Henry Knox, chief of artillery in the Revolution, and Secretary of War from 1785 to 1795. Knox, who was very aristocratic in his tastes, here built himself the finest mansion in Maine and lived in baronial style. Montpelier, as the mansion was called, was demolished in 1872, but the present railway station was one of the farm buildings. The route goes straight through Thomaston and turns left and then right into Park St. with the trolley. From the heights between Thomaston and Rockland are beautiful views of Penobscot Bay with its numerous islands. 80.5 ROCKLAND. Alt 40 ft. Pop 8174. Shire town of Knox Co. Settled 1769. Mfg. lime, granite, tools, and foundry prod- ucts; shipbuilding. Steamers connect with Boston, Ban- gor, Sedgwick, Bar Harbor, Vinal Haven, and Isle au Haul, Blue Hill and Castine; and thrice weekly for Portland. Rockland, the center of a granite industry, and famous for its lime quarries and kilns, is a thriving little city beautifully situated on Rockland Harbor at the mouth of Penobscot Bay. R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 771 To the south is the promontory of Owl's Head, enclosing one side of the harbor, and to the north, the breakwater with the mountains of Camden beyond. Out in the bay lie the islands of North Haven, Vinal Haven, Islesboro, Isle au Haut, and others. The bay is a yachting rendezvous and off Rockland Harbor is the official trial course for the U.S. battleships. In the harbor mouth is the U.S. mile-long breakwater at the base of which is the Samoset Hotel and its golf links. Rockland was the birthplace of the actress Maxine Elliott, and her sister Gertrude, now Lady Forbes-Robertson. The huge limestone quarries in the vicinity, with their jagged perpendicular walls, resemble the rocky canyons of the West. The Rockland & Rockport Lime Company is by far the largest operator and controls about sixty kilns and exten- sive quarries, employing more than 500 men and producing a daily output of about 5000 barrels of lime. The kilns should be seen at night for the most picturesque effect, when the flames light the sky. Shipbuilding is still important at Rock- land. It is also a distributing center for much of the granite for which the islands to the north and east are famous, and is the home of a considerable fish packing industry. Rockland's real growth began with the establishment of the lime industry in 1795. From 1777 to 1848, when it was incorporated as East Thomaston, it was a part of Thomaston. In 1850 the name was changed to Rockland and in 1854 it was chartered as a city. The route follows the trolley north along Main and Camden Sts. To the right is Jameson Point and the breakwater. Still keeping with the trolley, the road passes Glen Cove, on the right. Over the ridge to the left, between Dodge Moun- tain (660 ft) and Bear Hill (440 ft), is Chickawaukie Pond, one of the two lakes from which Rockland is supplied with water. Ascending a grade, the road follows the ridge above the rocky shore of Penobscot Bay, with Rockport Harbor in the fore- ground. In the distance are the whaleback slopes of pine- clad Mt. Megunticook (1380 ft) and Mt. Battie (900 ft), form- ing an impressive background for the towns which nestle at their base. A few miles to the west are Bald and Ragged Mountains (1300 ft). Pring, who coasted by this shore in 1603, accurately described it as "a high country, full of great woods." The road descends abruptly into 86.8 ROCKPORT. Pop (twp) 2022. Knox Co. Settled 1769. Mfg. lime; shipbuilding. Rockport, a lime-burning and shipbuilding village, pictur- esquely situated at the head of a good harbor, was formerly a part of Camden, with which it forms a continuous settlement. The route follows the trolley line through Rockport and up over the ridge, past Lilly Pond, on the right, to 772 CAMDEN BUCKSPORT 88.5 CAMDEN. Pop (twp) 3015. Knox Co. Settled 1769. Indian name Megunticook. Mfg. ship fittings, engines, ice, woolens; shipbuilding. Steamers connect with Bangor, Bucksport, Belfast, Rockland, and Boston. Camden, a summer resort and ship-fitting and woolen manufacturing center, has a strikingly beautiful situation on the little Megunticook river, at the base of the mountains. In few other places is there such a grouping of mountain, lake, and ocean scenery. The rocky headlands of Metcalf Point and Sherman Point almost encircle the harbor, at the mouth of which lies Negro Island. Some of the finest residences are along the north shore of the bay. Camp Megunticook, for boys, is located here. A good road leads to the summit of Mt. Battie, which com- mands a wonderful panorama of this part of the coast. There is a club house on the summit which is open to visitors during the summer months. The view from Mt. Megunticook is even finer, embracing the whole of Penobscot Bay with Mt. Desert, far to the east. The most beautiful of all the drives about Camden is the Turnpike Road, a continuation of Mountain St., which winds along the shores of lovely Lake Megunticook to the northwest, climbs the northern extremity of the mountain range, and at Maiden Cliff borders the outer edge of Mt. Megunticook, from which precipitous cliffs fall sharply away to the lake. Camden was visited by DeMonts in 1604 and by Weymouth a year later. It was named in honor of Lord Camden, the friend of America in the British Parliament. From Camden to Belfast the route runs along the seaward bluffs of the mountains of Camden and affords an almost con- tinuous panorama of Penobscot Bay with its wooded islands, and beyond, to the northeast, Castine and Blue Hill. Camp Penobscot for boys is on Eagle Island, and Camp Eggemoggin for girls is on Birch Island. The route passes through the coast villages of Lincolnville (94.0), Northport (99.3), and East Northport. The back country about here yields large crops of blueberries. 107.0 BELFAST. Alt 100 ft. Pop (twp) 4618. Shire town of Waldo Co. Settled 1769. Mfg. shoes; shipbuilding, lumber products. Steamers connect daily with Bangor, Camden, Castine, Rockland, Boston, and Bucksport. Belfast, a port of entry and the county-seat of Waldo County, is a well-built town at the head of Belfast Bay, by the mouth of the Penobscot river, on an undulating hillside which rises gradually from the water's edge and commands a good view of the adjacent shores and islands. Across the bay is Isles- boro and beyond Dice's Head are Castine and Blue Hill, with Mt. Desert often looming in the far distance. On the East R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 773 Side, which was the earliest settlement, an old gambrel-roofed tavern is still standing. Ten miles west at Lake Quantabacook is Camp Quan-ta-ba-cook, for boys. Belfast was settled by Scotch-Irish and incorporated as a town in 1773, taking its name from Belfast, Ireland. It was almost completely destroyed by the British in 1779, but rebuilt the following year. It was chartered as a city in 1850, and is now a manufacturing and dis- tributing center for this section. The route follows the coast for the next ten miles. 112.5 SEARSPORT. Pop (twp) 1444. Waldo Co. Settled 1794. Mfg. fertilizers. Steamers connect daily with Bangor, Bucksport, Belfast, Camden, Rockland, and Boston. Searsport, a quiet village with a pleasant situation on the Bay, was formerly a shipping center and is said to have fur- nished more sea-captains than any other town in the United States, the protests of Salem, Gloucester, Newburyport, and New Bedford notwithstanding. The town is notable for the number of well-kept residences, many of them the homes of retired mariners with observatories and "look-outs." Stockton Springs (117.0) is a hamlet in the midst of a good agricultural district. At Fort Point, on Cape Jellison, the Massachusetts Bay Colony erected Fort Pownall in 1759, a few years after its settlement. This promontory marks the mouth of the Penobscot river, which drains more than a quarter of Maine. It is 160 miles long and contains 467 lakes in its basin. Mainly a log-driving stream, it also furnishes 70,454 h.p., with immense possibilities of further development. The route turns left in the center of the village and crosses rolling country to PROSPECT (121.5), a quiet country town, so named because of its beautiful environment. The route turns to the right, across Marsh River and around the slopes of Eustis Mountain (545 ft), to the ferry (car and two persons $i, extra persons 10 cts. each) and over the Penobscot to Bucksport. By the ferry on the right are the walls of old Fort Knox. For the route to Ellsworth via Bangor, see Route 57 (p 788). 125.0 BUCKSPORT. Alt 43 ft. Pop (twp) 2216. Hancock Co. Settled 1762. Mfg. dried fish. Steamboats connect daily with Bangor, Belfast, Camden, Rockland, and Boston. Bucksport, on the east bank of the Penobscot, once an im- portant shipbuilding center still sends fishing vessels to the Grand Banks. Peary's ship the "Roosevelt," which he used on his expedition to the North Pole, was built here. The brick buildings of the East Maine Conference Seminary (est. 1851) are conspicuous on Oak Hill above the town. The old Robinson House has been a tavern since 1805, but was built earlier than that date. A former landlord, James F. Moses, was the original of the character "Qld Jed Prouty," 774 BUCKSPORT CAST1NF. wellknown to Americans through its portrayal by the actor Richard Golden, who, like his colleagues in stagecraft, Dustin and William Farnum, is a native of Bucksport. Among the landmarks are the Swazey house, built in 1773, the old Pond house on Main St., and the Henry Darlin house. The Con- gregational Church, built in 1811, is now used as the town hall. The village was a part of the old Indian domain of Pentagoet. Colonel Jonathan Buck built the first sawmill here and gave his name to the town, which was incorporated in 1792. In the early years of the Revolution it was visited by the British fleet and the citizens fled to Camden and left the place deserted until 1784. After the war it became prominent in shipbuilding. The town was occupied for a time by the British during the War of 1812, but little damage was done. From Bucksport the main route heads eastward through the farming village of ORLAND (128.0) to Ellsworth (p 776). Alternate route to Ellsworth via Castine. 48.0 m. From Orland it is a most interesting trip along the shore of Penobscot Bay to Castine, a lovely old town with a romantic history, and now a summer resort, reaching Ellsworth via the beautiful shore route encircling Blue Hill. 15.0 CASTINE. Pop (twp) 933. Hancock Co. Settled 1626. Indian name Majabigwaduce. Port of entry. Mfg. fishing lines and twine. Steamboats to Belfast and Rockland. Castine is a fine old town attractively situated near the tip of the breeze-swept peninsula of Pentagoet. The English Fort George, still in good preservation, has a commanding site on the hill back of the town and beautiful views are obtained from the ramparts. A quiet, dignified old village, chiefly known as a summer resort, a number of fine old houses still remain to attest its former commercial importance. A State Normal School gives a modern touch to the village. Noah Brooks was a native of Castine and has written about the town in his "East Coast Tales" under the name of Fairport. Whit- tier's famous poem "Mogg Megone" is likewise concerned with this locality. A Castine celebrity recently past, the poeti- cal shipbuilder, James Webster, wrote such stirring verse as: "Most manfully He stood the test And like a Hero done his best But human nature cannot stand What is beyond the power of man." No town in Maine has such a romantic history as Castine, where five different nations have occupied the soil and have fought five naval battles in its harbor. It was one of the principal strongholds in the long debated region between Penobscot Bay and the Provinces, claimed by the French as Acadia. The Plymouth Company occupied this peninsula in 1629 for a trading post, but it was captured in 1635 by the Frenchman, D'Aulnay, who erected strong fortifications. In 1674 a Dutch fleet took Pentagoet after suffering some losses. In 1667 the Baron St. Castin, a French nobleman of the Pyrenees, came to Pentagoet, married the daughter of the Sachem of the Tarratines R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 775 and became the champion of Catholicism among the Indian tribes. His lineal descendants ruled over the Tarratines until 1860. In 1688 Sir Edmond Andros plundered the settlement and Castine retaliated in i6g6 by destroying the English colony at Pemaquid. New Eng- landers settled here in 1760 and later the place was strongly garrisoned by the British who built Fort George. John Moore, a captain in this garrison, was destined to become a hero in the Peninsular campaign of the Napoleonic wars. His death before Corunna inspired Wolfe's celebrated lines, acclaimed by Byron as "the most perfect ode in the language": "Not a drum was heard, not a funeral note, As his corse to the rampart we hurried; Not a soldier discharged his farewell shot O'er the grave where our hero we buried." On July 28, 1779, 1200 Massachusetts militiamen supported by artillery under Paul Revere, and a formidable fleet with an additional landing force of 1500, stormed the heights and secured a foothold. But delay and disagreement led the Americans to intrench. Meanwhile the British fleet arrived and destroyed the American squadron and dis- persed the land forces. Castine was held by the British from 1770 to 1783, and was again taken and held by their troops in the War of 1812. RT GEORGE, CASTINE From Castine to Ellsworth is one of the most beautiful trips in the State, much of it following close to the shore and encir- cling the wellknown Blue Hills. These dirt and gravel roads extend for almost the entire distance, with several recently much improved sections. The route encircles Hatch's Cove and runs along at an altitude of about 200 feet above Baga- duce and the narrows to North Castine (18.0), past North Bay through Penobscot (23.0) to SOUTH PENOBSCOT (24.0). Note. From South Penobscot a further detour may be made over country roads along a series of inlets and ponds to Sargentville and Brooklin, a road winding along Eggemoggin Reach. The view from the top of Caterpillar Hill just outside Sargentville gives a beautiful panorama overlooking Walkers Pond and the Reach with its scat- tered islands while the Camden Hills in the distance form a background. From Sedgwick there are two roads to Blue Hill, one along a series of inlets from the ocean, the other skirting the border of Blue Hill Bay, the more picturesque of the two; both are good country roads. From South Penobscot the direct route strikes across the hills attaining an altitude of almost 400 feet, near the Blue Hill Mineral Spring, and skirts Blue Hill (940 ft), the namesake of the village of 776 BLUE HILL BAR HARBOR 27.0 BLUE HILL. Pop (twp) 1462. Hancock Co. Settled 1762. Steamboats connect daily with Rockland. Blue Hill is a pleasant village on Blue Hill Harbor at the head of Blue Hill Bay. The beautiful surroundings have made this a favorite summering place and there are a number of attractive estates in the vicinity. The Blue Hill Hotel was formerly an old tavern and there are several houses dating from the eighteenth century, of which perhaps the most inter- esting is the Parson Fisher place of 1798. Parker Point, now an. exclusive summer resort, takes its name from a settler of a century ago who once owned all of this land. The direct road turns north over the shoulder of Blue Hill and passes through the little villages of Surry (33.5) and East Surry (36.5), which are becoming increasingly popular as vacation resorts, and then reaches Ellsworth (40.5). From Orland the main route traverses a hill country with several ponds and swamps in the valleys. It passes through the hamlet of East Orland (131.0) and on to 145.0 ELLSWORTH. Alt 112 ft. Pop (twp) 3549. Shire town of Hancock Co. Mfg. lumber, foundry and machine shop products, carriages, and shoes; hardwood. Ellsworth, a city and port of entry at the head of navigation on the Union river, has a considerable lumber trade, a foundry and shipyard, a large hardwood mill, and other minor manu- factories, which are supplied with good waterpower from a concrete dam seventy-two feet high, which also supplies the electric power for Bar Harbor. Nearby there is a large U.S. Fish Hatchery. MT. DESERT lies nine miles to the south; Bar Harbor is twenty miles from Ellsworth. The island of Mt. Desert, Indian name Pemetic, renowned for its mountain and coast scenery, and for the famous resort of Bar Harbor, is 15 miles long, from 4 .to 12 miles wide, with an area of 100 square miles. The mountains rising abruptly from the sea have no parallel on the Atlantic coast until we reach Rio de Janeiro in. South America, and they are much more imposing than their moder- ate elevation (900-1500 ft) would suggest. Roughly parallel ridges extend from north to south, separated by narrow val- leys, one of which is occupied by Somes Sound, a fiord pene- trating to the heart of the island. There are thirteen principal peaks of which the highest is Mt. Green (1527 ft) on the east side. The village improvement associations, thanks largely to Dr. S. Weir Mitchell, the novelist, have done much in introduc- ing paths and wellmarked trails, and the roads, which are excellent, are now open to automobiles. About 5000 acres southwest of Bar Harbor form a reservation controlled by an R. 54 I. PORTLAND TO ELLSWORTH 777 organization of summer residents under the leadership of George B. Dorr of Boston and Ex-president Eliot of Harvard, who have recently offered it to the Federal Government. The island was discovered by Champlain in 1604, while on an explor- ing expedition westward from the French colony at the mouth of the St. Croix river. On Sept. 5, 1604, he records: "We passed near to an island some four or five leagues long, in the neighborhood of which we just escaped being lost on a rock that was just awash and made a hole in the bottom of our boat. From this island, to the mainland on the north, the distance is not more than a hundred paces. The island is high and notched in places so that from the sea it gives the appearance of a range of seven or eight mountains. The summits are all bare and rocky. The slopes are covered with pines, firs and birches. I named it Isle des Monts Deserts." The region was declared French soil by "that lusty gallant, that very devil," Henry of Navarre. In 1608 a colony was established here by dissatisfied Jesuits from Port Royal, but this was broken up in 1616 by Governor Argall of Virginia, who tore down the Catholic crosses and carried many of the colonists away as captives. From this date the island was indeed deserted; neither English nor French dared settle there, each fearing a raid from the other's colonial privateers. At last the defeat of the French at Louisburg and Quebec opened the way to a flood of Yankee immigrants; in 1761 a Gloucester pioneer, Abraham Somes, spied out the land and soon brought his family, set- tling at the head of Somes Sound and building the first house in Somes- ville in 1763. His descendants are still a power in the land. These squatters from Massachusetts were sturdier than the rightful owners, the DeGregoires, who took possession at Hull's Cover in 1787 and died penniless in 1810. Their title was a grant of France in 1688, recognized by the General Court of Massachusetts in 1787 through the influence of Lafayette and Thomas Jefferson. On this grant are based all the Bar Harbor real estate titles today. About 1850 a few artists and summer folk visited the island and advertised the magnificent scenery so well that Bar Harbor became a more and more fashionable and frequented summer resort until today it is one of the foremost in the land. Among the early summer folk were Alpheus Hardy, the Welds, the Minots, the Dorrs, and other Bostonians. Oliver Wendell Holmes was a frequent visitor at the Dorr cottage on the Schooner Head road. 20.0 BAR HARBOR. Pop (twp) 4441. Hancock Co. Settled 1763. Summer resort. Steamboats daily to Rockland. Bar Harbor, second only to Newport as the resort of fashion, is beautifully situated on the east coast of Mt. Desert, on Frenchmans Bay, opposite the little Porcupine Islands, and about two miles from the northeast base of Green Mountain. The name is derived from a sand bar which is uncovered at low water. There is a fine view across the harbor of the hills on the mainland. It is the largest town in the State, with a valuation of over $6,000,000. The noteworthy Shore Walk or Tow Path, like the Cliff Walk at Newport, has the sea on one side and beautiful villas and lawns on the other. It starts beyond the Rockaway Hotel, passes the Mt. Desert Reading Room, Balance Rock a little further on, and the stone tower at the end of the bowling BAR HARBOR FRANKLIN alley belonging to the Villa Edgemere, then Reef Point, the Briars, Redwood, Kenarden Lodge, and Cromwells Harbor, whence a private road leads to the south end of Main Street. At Cromwells Harbor is the George W. Vanderbilt estate. There are a great many walks and drives. Some of the most attractive short excursions are to Eagle Lake (280 ft) and the Kebo Valley Country Club, a center of the fashionable life. The Building of Arts is a Greek edifice with an open amphi- theater, as well as a concert hall, for dramatic performances and concerts. The ascent of Green Mountain (1527 ft), either by the carriage road or on foot, is a popular excursion. The Ocean Drive, returning by the Gorge, is a splendid trip of twelve miles taking in some of the finest points on the island. It leaves Bar Harbor by Main St. and proceeds south to Schooner Head (3.8), so called from a white stain on the rock which is supposed to resemble the sail of a boat. Near here is the Spouting Horn and the Anemone Cave. A mile beyond a detour to the left leads to Great Head, a bold promon- tory (140 ft), commanding a fine view. Another detour, a mile and a half further on, leads to the Otter Cliffs (188 ft), with a good view. Here, turning to the right, the route goes north through the Gorge to Bar Harbor, with Newport Moun- tain on the right and Dry Mountain on the left. Another excursion is to the former home of the DeGregoire family at Hulls Cove, via the Bay Drive. The so-called Twenty-two Mile Drive proceeds via the Eagle Lake Road to the north end of Somes Sound, along the east shore of the Sound to Northeast Harbor, and past Seal Harbor by the beautiful Sea Cliff Drive to Otter Creek and the Gorge. There are a number of other trips over excellent roads with ever- changing panoramas of sea, lake, and mountain, and pedes- trians will find an endless variety of walks. SEAL HARBOR, on the south side of the island, is finely situ- ated on a cove with a splendid bathing beach. This is a grow- ing summer colony with a number of fine estates. Near here is the beautiful Jordan Pond. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., has a large estate on the hills back of the village. NORTHEAST HARBOR is an exclusive summer colony on the promontory between the harbor and Somes Sound. The north side of the harbor is enclosed by the peninsula of Asticou and Bear Island lies at its mouth. The colony here has rather an intellectual tone and among the residents is former President Eliot of Harvard. A little further out are Sutton Island with Great Cranberry Isle and Little Cranberry Isle, and beyond, Baker Island and its lighthouse. Most of these islands have summer colonies. R. 54 2. ELLSWORTH TO CALAIS 77Q Off the promontory lies Greening Island, at the mouth of Somes Sound. Across the Sound is Southwest Harbor, another flourishing colony, noted for its yachting and for its deep-sea fishing. It is reached at considerable length by the road via Somesville, a village at the head of the Sound where there is an inn much frequented for its chicken dinners and popovers. Fernalds Point, two miles above, is said to be the site of the Jesuits' luckless little colony. Three miles to the south is the Sea Wall, a curious pebble ridge, a mile long and 15 feet high. The trip up the Sound by boat is very beautiful, for its cliff scenery is as fine as some of the Norwegian fjords. Perhaps the finest point is at Eagle Cliff where the wall-like face of Dog Mountain, on the left, rises sheer from the water to a height of nearly 500 feet. Not far beyond are the granite quarries which supplied material used in the piers of Brooklyn Bridge. R. 54 2. Ellsworth to Calais. 100.0 m. From Ellsworth to Machias the road passes over a pleasant rolling country and through several villages, part of the great blueberry region of Maine. Three quarters of the country's supply of blueberries for canning purposes come from Washing- ton County. The back country which stretches away to the north is still largely woodland, a region of numberless lakes and streams and a favorite hunting and fishing ground. The route now follows county and town roads toward the support of which the State contributes. Note. A less direct but also less hilly route follows the coast line via Hancock, and Sullivan Harbor, where the view of Mt. Desert excels that from any other point, past the summer resort of Sorrento. At West Gouldsboro (19.0) the road forks left, turning inland across gently rolling country through Gouldsboro, Steuben, and Millbridge to Harrington (41.0), where it joins the shorter route given below. The direct route takes the left fork at North Hancock Post Office (6.5), at the head of Kilkenny Cove, and climbs over a two-mile-wide peninsula to the hamlet of Egypt (8.7) on Egypt Bay. Skirting the irregular shore of Taunton Bay, the road parallels R.R. to 12.5 FRANKLIN. Pop (twp) 1161. Hancock Co. Settled 1784. Mfg. lumber and granite. This quiet village is remote from the tourist and summer resort atmosphere. The forests and quarries among the ponds supply wood and stone for local industries. 780 FRANKLIN EASTPORT At Franklin the road forks left at the Cherryfield sign post and crosses R.R. The route leads down across a brook and then up into the woods, leaving Donnells Pond and the Tar Pond on the right, and climbing over a steep hill at the further side of which are Long and Great Tunk Ponds. After crossing R.R. (29.0), the road forks to the left into 29.5 CHERRYFIELD. Pop (twp) 1499. Washington Co. Settled 1757. Mfg. carriages, wood products and lumber, canned blueberries. This is a little business center on the Narraguagus river, on the edge of the blueberry barrens. The route continues east- ward up a steep hill and across a woody countryside to J5.5 HARRINGTON. Pop (twp) 1020. Settled 1765. The village is pleasantly placed near the head of the Har- rington river and is occupied with blueberry-canning and boatbuilding. The route leads through the hamlet of Columbia Falls (40.5), where it crosses the Pleasant river and takes the right fork at R.R. Passing through Jonesboro (48.8), the route continues across a scantily inhabited country to 61.0 MACHIAS. Pop (twp) 2089. Shire town of Washington Co. Settled 1763. Indian name Machisses, " bad small falls." Port of Entry. Mfg. lumber, carriages, and wood products. Machias is a village with lumber interests on the river of the same name, the scene of the first naval battle of the Revo- lution, 'The Lexington of the Sea.' Indian hieroglyphics are found on Birch and Clarks Points and on Hog Island. In 1633 the English opened a trading station here which the French destroyed; they in turn were unable to settle here and the English at last gained a foothold in 1763. "After Bunker Hill in 1775, the cap- tain of an armed British ship 'Margaretta' saw a liberty pole on shore which he ordered cut down, but the Machias patriots replied 'Never!' A band of fishermen soon seized the schooner and killed the captain. This was the first British vessel captured by the Americans." The old Burnham Tavern (1760) is still standing; here the wounded were brought after the capture of the British schooner. In 1812 the town was captured by the British. Note. An attractive route from Machias to Calais is that via Eastport, twenty-seven miles longer than the route below. It is endorsed by the National Highways Association and is State Road throughout. It combines good roads with some of the most beautiful scenery in eastern Maine, and from Eastport the islands of Campobello and Grand Manan are easily visited. Leaving the direct Calais route at East Machias, it proceeds through the villages of Whiting (12.5), Dennysville (27.0), and Pembroke (35.5) to R. 54 2. ELLSWORTH TO CALAIS 781 41.0 EASTPORT. Alt 76 ft. Pop 4961. Washington Co. Settled 1780. Port of Entry. Mfg. canned sardines, shoes, boats. Steamboats connect with Boston and St. John, N.B. Eastport, the center of the 'sardine' industry of America, and the most easterly city in the United States, is situated on Moose Island in Passamaquoddy Bay. Fort Hill at the center of the town rises to a height of 200 feet. This is a rapidly growing summer resort and a center for attractive excursions to the islands of Campobello and Grand Manan and the popu- lar New Brunswick resort of St. Andrews, across the bay, reached by steamer daily during the summer. The name of the early settlement was Moose Island, changed in honor of its being the most easterly town in the United States. On Fort Hill are the scanty remains of old Fort Sullivan. The old man- sion, once occupied by the officers, is now used as a modern tenement house. The Powder House is the rarest landmark in Eastport. From this point there is a splendid view over the harbor, Campobello, and the adjacent islands. Popes Folly, a small island in the bay, has been a bone of contention between England and America for more than a century. The British ambassadors have made several trips here in an endeavor to settle the dispute. In fact, this whole northeast boundary was continually under discussion from 1798 to 1910, with armed forces, at times, on the border. On a peninsula to the south of Eastport is the picturesque old fishing town of Lubec, distant three miles as the crow flies, but 100 miles distant by coast line. From Eastport to Calais the route follows the River Road along the west bank of the St. Croix for almost the entire dis- tance, one of the most beautiful drives in eastern Maine. The little villages of Perry (48.5), Robbinston (57.0), and Red Beach (61.0) are attractively situated on the coast, but con- tain nothing of great interest. Red Beach is an especially beautiful spot with nearby granite quarries. Calais (60.5). The shortest and best route from Machias to Calais crosses the Machias river, a coastal stream, fifty miles in length, which furnishes a little waterpower and log-driving. Following the north bank to the little village of East Machias (65.0), the road passes the foot of Hadley Lake to the left. On the right is Gardiner Lake, eight miles long, home of the summer camp of Engineering of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. The country is woody and thinly settled. Beyond the R.R. crossing (71.0), the road leaves Rocky Lake a mile and a half to the northwest and bears to the right at the fork (73.5) past Patrick Lake on the left and Cathance Lake on the right, to the hamlet of MEDDYBEMPS (87.0), near the lake of the same name. At the crossroads, one mile beyond the village, the road turns to the left and then left again at the Baring sign post. From here, the road is gravel-surfaced. On the left, half a mile from the route, is the little village of Baring. 782 EASTPORT CALAIS From here the road descends toward the shores of the St. Croix river and enters the manufacturing village of MILLTOWN (98.5), from which it is a short run along the riverbank to 100.0 CALAIS. Pop (twp) 6116. Washington Co. Settled 1779. Mfg. lumber, cotton, shoes; shipbuilding. Calais, formerly one of the greatest lumber shipping cities of America and still important in this respect, is situated on the St. Croix river, which here divides Maine from the province of New Brunswick. The valley here is wide and deep and the banks of the river are bold and picturesque. The Inter- national Bridge connects the city with the Canadian town of St. Stephen. Although Calais hardly ships a tenth of the lumber it did a few decades ago, it still largely depends upon the great trees which grow at the headwaters of the St. Croix for its prosperity. The river is 100 miles long and besides its use for logging purposes it affords 20,500 h.p. A good road leads north to Houlton (R. 57, p 788). Calais is the birthplace and summer home of Prof. C. T. Copeland, that caustic wit beloved of Harvard men, to whom he is known familiarly as 'Copey.' Here, too, was born his disciple, Henry Milner Rideout, author of "Beached Keels" and "Dragon's Blood." "Even when I first beheld him," says Mr. Copeland, "barefoot, ardent, with pockets full of fish, there was discernible an essayist and weaver of romances beneath his scaly integument." Big Island, now Calais, was probably visited in the winter of 1604-05 by Pierre du Guast, although the first settlement was not until 1779. It was incorporated as a town in 1809 and chartered as a city in 1851. During the War of 1812, the citizens of Calais and St. Stephen formed an agreement by which they refrained from mutual hostilities. R. 55. BRUNSWICK to QUEBEC. 253.0 m. This route for eighty miles follows the beautiful Kennebec valley through the busy little cities of Gardiner and Augusta and the summer resort country of the Belgrade Lakes. Thence the route runs northward through the hunting grounds of the Maine woods midway between Rangeley and Moosehead Lakes. It crosses the height of land overlooking the Lauren- tide hills and the Chaudiere river at the international boundary and descends the Chaudiere valley to Quebec. The road is State and National Highway to the Canadian line, in good condition, except the rough stretch of 40 miles over the watershed and the boundary. The Canadian section is good gravel for 60 miles and macadam for the last 20; $75,000 a year (1915-18) has been set aside for this highway by the Province of Quebec. R. 55 1. Brunswick to Augusta. 35.0 m. The route crosses the Androscoggin river from Brunswick and turns right, through the quiet old village of TOPSHAM, where there are several houses of a ripe old age. The road follows the riverbank, crossing Muddy River and climbing Sprague hill, which overlooks the confluence of the Andros- coggin and the Kennebec at Merrymeeting Bay and affords a lovely view. The route follows the west bank of the Kennebec closely all the way to Augusta. It soon passes through BOWDOINHAM (9.0), a farming town pleasantly situated on the Kennebec. North Bowdoin, a few miles away, has some houses which will interest the antiquarian: the old Baker Tavern, the John Dennet House, and others. Two miles and a half beyond, the route turns right and descends to the meadows by the river. Beyond the village of Richmond (17.8) it passes Iceboro, a village about eight miles below Gardiner on the bank of the Kennebec, which is said to have the largest ice houses in the world. About a million tons are shipped yearly to all parts of the world. 29.0 GARDINER. Alt 22 ft. Pop 5311. Kennebec Co. Settled 1759. Mfg. paper, shoes, and machinery. Gardiner is a thriving little manufacturing city at the junction of the Cobbosseecontee and the Kennebec rivers. The Kennebec is ascended by large vessels to this point, giving the city water traffic in lumber and ice, and the Cobbossee- contee river falls 130 feet in one mile, furnishing good power for paper, flour, and saw mills, and shoe factories. The Com- mon is on Church Hill (125 ft), from which there is a good (783) 784 GARDINER QUEBEC view. The residential section of the town is on this high land with the business section along the riverbank. Opposite Gardiner on the east bank of the Kennebec is its parent village of Pittston. About six miles to the west of Gardiner is Lake Cobbosseecontee with good bass fishing. It belongs to the same group as the Belgrade Lakes (p 759). Gardiner was founded by Dr. Sylvester Gardiner (1707-86) and called Gardinerston. When incorporated in 1779 it was renamed Pittston because the founder was then a Tory, but in 1803 the part of Pittston on the west bank of the Kennebec was incorporated as a separate town, and, as its prosperity was in a large measure due to the grandson of the founder, the present name was adopted. It was chartered as a city in 1849. 33.5 HALLO WELL. Alt 53 ft. Pop 2864. Kennebec Co. Settled 1754. Mfg. granite, paper, and shoes. Hallowell, chiefly noted for its large granite quarries, is a quiet little city on the Kennebec just below Augusta. 35.0 AUGUSTA (p 758). R. 55 2. Augusta to Quebec. 218.0m. From Augusta to Waterville, follow Route 53 (p 758). At Waterville the route continues via Main St. northward through the village of Fairfield Center (23.0). The country is hilly, but there are no severe grades. Note. The State Highway follows the west bank of the Kennebec river, but has been in bad repair of late. 35.8 SKOWHEGAN. Pop (twp) 5341. Shire town of Somerset Co. Settled 1770. Indian name meaning " spearing," or " watering place." Mfg. pulp, paper, and woolens. Skowhegan is a manufacturing town on the Kennebec. There are several century-old houses and taverns here, of which perhaps the most interesting are the fine old Dyer house and the Locke Tavern on the south side of the river. In 1823 Skowhegan was separated from Canaan and called Milburn. In 1836 its present name was adopted. Benedict Arnold's expedition camped here on its way to Quebec in 1775. Note. From Skowhegan, a longer route follows the State Highway along the south bank of the Kennebec through Norridgewock (5.5; p 741), and then turns north through the industrial village of Madison (13.5) and North Anson (18.5; p 756). Crossing the Kennebec, this detour joins the main route at Solon (26.5). The direct route from Skowhegan leads over a very good road across a rather hilly country. Leaving the town via Madison Ave., the route follows the trolley to the hamlet of Madison Center (41.0) beside Hayden Lake, and forks right. R. 55 2. AUGUSTA TO QUEBEC 785 SOLON (50.0) is a pleasant village near the Carritunk Falls of the Kennebec. The detour from Skowhegan through Nor- ridgewock and North Anson rejoins the route here. The Highway continues along the east bank of the Kennebec, passing through Bingham (58.5). The road now grows nar- rower and enters the twenty-mile canyon of the Kennebec, from 500 to noo feet deep. Going straight through the crossroads hamlet of Carritunk the route reaches The Forks (81.0) at the confluence of the Dead river, from the left, and the Kennebec, from the right. The route bears left along Dead River for a mile and then leads up over the hills, climbing by a rather rough and narrow road to the height of land between the Kennebec and the St. Lawrence basins. Passing by Lake Parlin (96.5), on the right, the road reaches JACKMAN (109.0), where the U.S. Customs Office is located. A State Highway is under con- struction from here to Rockwood, on Moosehead Lake. The road winds onward and upward to the Canadian bound- ary line (124.0), where the descent toward the Chaudiere val- ley commences. The view northward extends to the range of the Laurentides, beyond Quebec. This section of the road (to St. George) is the least improved on the route. It passes through Armstrong (135.5), St. Clune (144.5), Jersey (152.0), and St. George, little Canadian ham- lets, joining the Chaudiere river at the last named. The road from here on is very good. At BEAUCEVILLE (164.0) is the Canadian Customs Office. The road follows the right bank of the river through a thinly populated country, where little English is spoken. The villages on the route are: St. Joseph (174.0), Beauce Junction (179.5), Ste. Marie (186.5), where the road leaves the river, Scott Junction (191.5), St. Henri (206.0), and Levis (217.5), where the Quebec ferry across the St. Lawrence is situated (25 cents, car and driver; 5 cents, each passenger). 218.0 QUEBEC. R. 56. NEWPORT to MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 57.0 m. The route leads across a pleasant farming country which grows wilder and more hilly beyond Guilford. Moosehead Lake, the goal of this trip, is the largest body of fresh water in New England, in the heart of the hunting and fishing region. An attractive variant from this route is the Highway between Guilford and Bangor which connects the Moosehead Lake country with the Bar Harbor district. The main route and this connecting link are State Highways except a ten-mile stretch of good town road. The roads are mainly gravel. The route starts from Newport (p 760) on High St., at the crossroads. It crosses R.R. a mile from the village and fol- lows the tracks, on the right, into the typical agricultural village of Corinna (6.5). The route crosses R.R. here and bears left. Two miles and a half beyond, it turns left, at the crossroads, and again at the end of the road (13.5). 15.0 DEXTER. Alt 380 ft. Pop (twp) 3530. Penobscot Co. Set- tled 1801. Mfg. woolens, lumber and foundry products, and canned goods. The road goes straight through the little manufacturing town. Four miles beyond, the route leaves the State High- way which leads to Dover, and bears left at the crossroads, passing through the villages of Silvers Mills (20.5) and Sanger- ville (28.5), both with woolen mills, turning left (28.5), and then forking right parallel with the Piscataquis river. In the village of Guilford (30.0) the route rejoins the State Highway, bearing left on Elm St. Guilford is also the point where the route to Bangor, via Dover, branches to the east. The route continues beside the river through Abbot Lower Village (34.0), and Abbot (35.5). At the latter it crosses the river and turns left, bearing right beyond the school house (37-5)- Passing through MONSON (41.5), where there are some fine slate quarries, the road forks left half a mile beyond, at the Moosehead Lake sign post, leading uphill through a wild country. At the crossroads (47.5) the road bears right to Greenville (55.5), and Greenville Junction (57.0), the starting point for steamers to Kineo. MOOSEHEAD LAKE, the largest in Maine, and the largest inland body of water wholly in New England, is 35 miles long and from i to 15 wide with a shore line of about 400 miles. The lake lies 1000 feet above the sea in the midst of the great wilderness of northern Maine, a land of mountain, lake, and forest, world famous as a hunting and fishing center. The steamer from Greenville runs to Deer Island and (17.0) the Mt. Kineo House, on a peninsula which projects into the lake on ( 7 86) R. 56. NEWPORT TO MOOSEHEAD LAKE 787 the east side to within a mile of the opposite shore. Back of the hotel rises Mt. Kineo (1760 ft). This is one of the favorite resorts of Maine and among the attractions are fine golf links. It is the starting point for camping trips to the upper waters of the Penobscot and the St. John, and for the Allagash Lakes. From Mt. Kineo the steamer continues to the end of the lake at either Northeast or Northwest Carry, the starting point for most of the canoe trips above mentioned. Northeast Carry is only two miles from the Penobscot river. Note. On the return trip from the Moosehead country an alternate route to Bangor turns left at GUILFORD, beside the Odd Fellows' Hall, and crosses the Piscataquis river and the R.R., turning right and following the north bank through a splendid farming country bordering the Piscataquis to Foxcroft (7.5). Curving to the right on Main St. and crossing the river, the route enters 8.0 DOVER. Alt 362 ft. Pop (twp) 2091. Shire town of Piscata- quis Co. Settled 1803. Mfg. woolens. Dover is the distributing center for this agricultural district. Some manufacturing of woolen goods and furniture is carried on here as at Foxcroft, on the opposite bank. The route bears right at the crossroads and between Dover and West Charleston traverses a hilly country. The view from the summit of the hill just before entering West Charles- ton is especially fine. 20.0 WEST CHARLESTON. Pop (Charleston twp) 864. Penob- scot Co. Settled 1795. The route continues through a farming region, passing the hamlets of East Corinth (25.0) and Kenduskeag (33.0), and crossing a low range of hills to 47.0 BANGOR (p 761). R. 57. BELFAST via BANGOR to HOULTON. 168.0 m. This route ascends the valley of the Penobscot to Matta- wamkeag, where it enters Aroostook County, noted for potatoes, as well as for hunting and fishing. R. 57 1. Belfast to Bangor. 34.5 m. For Belfast to Prospect, see Route 54 (p 772). From PROS- PECT (14.5) the route continues between Mt. Waldo (1062 ft) and Heagan Mountain (560 ft), through the hamlet of Frank- fort (18.5). From here the route follows the west bank through Winterport (21.5) and Hampden (28.5) to 34.5 BANGOR (R. S3, p 761). R. 57 2. Bangor to Houlton. 133.5 m. Leaving Bangor via State St., the route follows the trolley through Yeazie (4.2), with its great dam, to 7.7 ORONO. Alt 78 ft. Pop (twp) 3SSS. Penobscot Co. Settled 1774. Mfg. pulp, paper, shoes, and lumber products. This is the seat of the University of Maine. 13.0 OLD TOWN. Alt 100 ft. Pop 6317. Penobscot Co. Set- tled 1774. Mfg. lumber, canoes, paper, and woolens. Several lumber companies, the Old Town Canoe Company, the American Woolen Company, and the Penobscot Chemical Fibre Company have plants here. Guides for the backwoods make this their headquarters. Visitors to the Indian reservation are welcomed and there the Indians may be seen making baskets, snowshoes, and other native products. The tribe, approximately 400, is domiciled on Indian Island. The route follows the east bank, through Milford (13.5), Costigan (18.5), Olamon (27.5), Passadumkeag (32.0), West Enfield (36.8), South Lincoln (43.7), and Lincoln (49.0). 62.5 MATTAWAMKEAG. Alt 212 ft. Pop (twp) 517. Penobscot Co. The village lies at the junction of a stream of the same name and the Penobscot. The town's name is an Indian expression, meaning "down a stream which empties into the main river." The Maine Central R.R. Locomotive Works are located here. Aroostook County has won renown by its potato crop of approxi- mately 15,000,000 bushels a year, valued at $9,000,000. It is said to contain the largest area of fertile farming land in New England, a deep yellow porous loam above a stratum of limestone. One half mile beyond Macwahoc (78.4) turn left through Silver Ridge, Golden Ridge, Island Falls (106.4), Dyer Brook (113.3), Smyrna Mills (117.0), and Ludlow (123.8). 133.5 HOULTON. Alt 357 ft. Pop (twp) 5845. Shire town of Aroos- took Co. Settled 1807. Mfg. lumber, granite, and woolens. Houlton is the largest town in northeastern Maine and the distributing center for a lumbering and agricultural district. (788) CLASSIFIED DIRECTORIES THE CLASSIFIED DIRECTORIES In these Directories the purpose is to present in alphabetically classified lists, readily accessible for reference, information of value to travelers and others interested in New England. In future Editions these will be greatly amplified and many new classifications included. It is hoped eventually to make these Directories of the highest value, not only as a source of information to the users of the book, but also as a means of publicity. The inclusion of information will be primarily de- pendent upon its value to the buyer of the book. It is only appropriate, however, that firms who benefit from this publicity should pay for it, supplying a legitimate source of revenue. In common with all the books of this Series "noth- ing will be admitted to the paid space that does not add value to the book for the man who buys it." All copy will be edited for "maximum of concise and accurate information in theminimum of space." FERRIES AND STEAMSHIPS TARRYTOWN NYACK. Every half-hour from 6 A.M. to 7 P.M. Fare 15 cts.; Automobiles 35 cts. to $i, including chauffeur. GARRISON WEST POINT. Half-hour or three-quarter hour sendee from 7 A.M. to 6 P.M. Fare 15 cts.; Automobiles 50 cts., including chauffeur. BEACON NEWBURGH. Quarter and half-hour service from 6 A.M. to 1 1.30 P.M. Fare 7 cts.; Automobiles 30 to 35 cts., including chauffeur. POUGHKEEPSIE HIGHLAND. Every half-hour. Fare 7 cts.; Automobiles 30 to 35 cts., including chauffeur. RHINECLIFF KINGSTON. Every hour. Fare 23 cts.; Auto- mobiles 38 to 50 cts., including chauffeur. TIVOLI SAUGERTIES. Fare 25 cts.; Automobiles 50 cts., including chauffeur. GREENDALE CATSKILL. Half-hourly to hourly service from 6 A.M. to 7 P.M. Fare 10 cts.; Automobiles 40 cts., incl. chauffeur. HUDSON ATHENS. Half-hourly service. RYE, N.Y. SEA CLIFF, L.I. Ferry. Every two hours. 10 A.M. to 8 P.M. Automobiles $1.50 up. Passengers 15 cts. BRIDGEPORT LINE. From Pier 27, East River, New York, to Pequonnock Wharf, Bridgeport. Leaves New York 3 P.M. daily except Sundays. Leaves Bridgeport at 8 A.M. except Sundays. Fare one way 60 cts. BRIDGEPORT, CONN. PORT JEFFERSON, L.I. Ferry. Two trips daily during summer months. Fare 75 cts. Runabouts $3 up. Touring cars $5 up. NEW HAVEN, CONN. PORT JEFFERSON, L.I. Ferry. One trip daily. Fare 75 cts.; Automobiles $3 to $8. NEW LONDON GROTON, CONN. Ferry. At 20 and 30 min- ute intervals from 5 A.M. to MIDNIGHT. First Sunday boat 7.05 A.M. Fare 3 cts.; Automobiles 1 8 to 33 cts. NEW LONDON, CONN. SAG HARBOR, L.I. Montauk Steam- boat Co. Summer service. Two boats daily in each direction. Automobiles $4 up, including chauffeur. SAUNDERSTOWN JAMESTOWN NEWPORT, R.I. Ferry. Hourly service the year round; boats leave half after the hour from 7 A.M. to 6.30 P.M. Half-hourly trips during July and August; boats leave on the hour and half-hour. Automobiles carried. (791) 792 FERRIES AND STEAMSHIPS WICKFORD LANDING NEWPORT, R.I. Steamboat trans- fer. Four boats in each direction, week-days. PROVIDENCE, R.I. BLOCK ISLAND. Round-trip boat daily, leaving Providence g A.M. and stopping at Newport. PROVIDENCE, R.I. NEW YORK. COLONIAL LINE. Boat daily in each direction. Summer fare $1.90. PROVIDENCE, R.I. NEW YORK. PROVIDENCE LINE. Sum- mer season only. $3. BRISTOL, R.I. BRISTOL FERRY. FOR NEWPORT, R.I. Hourly service. Automobiles 75 cts. up, including chauffeur. FALL RIVER, MASS. NEW YORK. FALL RIVER LINE. Boat every night in the year. Stops at Newport, R.I. Connects with Boston trains. Summer fare $3. NEW BEDFORD, MASS. NEW YORK. Summer only. $3. NEW BEDFORD, MASS. WOODS HOLE, OAK BLUFFS and NANTUCKET. Several trips daily in summer; one in winter. BOSTON NEW YORK. METROPOLITAN LINE. All the way by water. Leaves either city 6 P.M. daily in summer only. Running time about 13? hours. $4. BOSTON PORTLAND, ME. Night boat in each direction, including Sundays in July and August. Summer fare $1.50. Day boat three times a week between Boston and Portland, Eastport, Lubec, and St. John, N.B. BOSTON BATH, ME., and other points on the Kennebec River. Daily in summer. Boston to Bath $1.75. BOSTON BANGOR, ME., and Penobscot Bay and River points. Daily in summer. Boston to Bangor $4. BOSTON PLYMOUTH, MASS. Daily in summer starting at 10 A.M. Round trip $i. BOSTON PROVINCETOWN, MASS. A four-hour trip across Massachusetts Bay. Daily in summer starting at 9 A.M.; Sundays 9.30 A.M. Round trip $1.25. BOSTON GLOUCESTER, MASS. Two boats daily in summer. PORTSMOUTH, N.H. ISLES OF SHOALS. Three boats daily, connecting with trains from Boston. PORTLAND, ME. NEW YORK. All the way by water. Three times a week. Running time 22 hours. PORTLAND, ME. ROCKLAND, ME. Three times a week, making intermediate stops. PORTLAND, ME. CASCO BAY POINTS. Frequent trips daily in summer, to Forest City, Peaks Island, Cushing's and Long Island, Little and Great Chebeague, Bailey's and Orr's Islands, South Harpswell, and other points. FERRIES AND STEAMSHIPS 793 BATH, ME. WOOLWICH, ME. Ferry. 6 A.M. to 6 P.M. Until 1 1 .30 P.M. in summer. Automobiles 50 cts., including chauffeur. Extra passengers 5 cts. BATH, ME. BOOTHBAY HARBOR PEMAQUID. Daily in summer, making about 20 intermediate stops. DAMARISCOTTA, ME. CHRISTMAS COVE. Daily boat. Connecting in July and August to Pemaquid. No autos carried. THOMASTON, ME. PORT CLYDE, MONHEGAN, and BOOTHBAY HARBOR. Boat leaves Thomaston 7 A.M., June i to October i; returning, leaves Boothbay Harbor 12.45 P - M - ROCKLAND, ME. PENOBSCOT BAY MT. DESERT POINTS. Two lines of steamers. Daily in summer. Connecting with Boston boats. RpCKLAND, ME. CASTINE and SARGENT VILLE. Inter- mediate stops. Daily in summer. BUCKSPORT, ME. PROSPECT, ME. Boat service night and day in summer. Automobiles $i, including two persons. Extra passengers 10 cts. each. BUCKSPORT, ME. CAMDEN, ME. Steamer leaves Bucks- port 8 A.M. daily for Camden and intermediate stops. Returning leaves Camden 12.30 P.M. Automobile rates $3 to $8, depending on number of passengers. MT. DESERT FERRY, ME. BAR HARBOR, SEAL, NORTH- EAST and SOUTHWEST HARBORS. Three trips daily in summer. LUBEC, ME. NORTH LAKE, EASTPORT, and CAMPO- BELLO. Ferry. Frequent trips in summer. EASTPORT, ME. CALAIS, ME. Boat daily, stopping at St. Andrews, Robbinston, and Red Beach. MOOSEHEAD LAKE, ME. Steamer connects with trains at Kineo Station and Greenvill Jet. for points on the lake. SEBAGO LAKE STEAMERS. Leave Sebago Lake Station twice daily, on arrival of morning and afternoon trains from Portland, for Songo River, Harrison, Me., and intermediate stops. LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE, N.H. Steamers between Alton Bay, Weirs, and Center Harbor. Connecting with morning trains from Boston. LAKE SUNAPEE, N.H. Steamers leave Sunapee Station four times daily, except Sunday, for lake points. BURLINGTON, VT. LAKE CHAMPLAIN POINTS. Twice daily in summer. Automobiles carried, except limousines over 7 feel in height. DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, TEA ROOMS, GARAGES, REAL ESTATE, SHOPS, ETC. ALTON BAY, N.H. OAKBIRCH INN and Bungalows. F. D. Van Vechten, Owner. All kinds of summer sports. Desirable accommodations for motor tourists. $2.50 and up. Good appointments. On Lake Winnepesaukee. Garage. Automobiles for hire. Booklet. ANTRIM, N.H. GREYSTONE LODGE. Splendid mountain views. Open the year round. $3 per day, $14 per week, and up. Garage. ASCUTNEYVILLE, Vt. "THE CORNER CUPBOARD TEA HOUSE." Antiques. ASHFIELD, Mass. ASHFIELD HOUSE. W. L. Porter, Prop. $15 and up per week. ASHLAND, Mass. FREDERICK A. KING. REAL ESTATE. (See Framingham.) AUBURNDALE, Mass. WOODLAND PARK HOTEL. Harry T. Miller, Prop. American plan. Excellent Cuisine. Garage. AUGUSTA, Me. AUGUSTA HOUSE. Wilbur T. Emerson, Mgr. Near the State Capitol. American plan: $3 up. NEW CAPITAL GARAGE. Fifield Bros. Co. Always open. BANGOR, Me. THE BANGOR HOUSE. H. C. Chapman Hotel Co. Rates $2.50- $4 per day. Capacity 300. BAR HARBOR, Me. NEWPORT HOUSE and Cottages. Thos. P. Jones, Prop. This is the only hotel directly on the waterfront, an attractive loca- tion on the shore of Frenchman's Bay. It is A FAVORITE STOP- PING PLACE popular with automobile tourists. All the rooms are large and comfortably furnished. Splendid meals are served. (704) DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 795 The best of dairy and vegetable products and fresh sea foods. Mr. Jones, the proprietor, is widely known through his manage- ment of the Harvard Club of Boston. American plan. Rates $4 per day and up; $24.50 per week and up. THE LOUISBURG. L. C. Prior, Prop, and Mgr. $4 up. Garage. A. E. LAWRENCE CO. Cottage St. GARAGE. Auto Supplies. BARNSTABLE, Mass. BARNSTABLE INN. A. M. Nickerson, Jr., Prop. Capacity 40. HORACE S. CROWELL. 60 State St., Boston. REAL ESTATE BROKER. Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod. BARRE, Vt. HOTEL BARRE. J. V. Rowen, Mgr. Opened in 1915. $2. 50 to $5. BARRE GARAGE. Drown Motor Car Co., Props. Storage. BARTLETT, N.H. THE HOWARD HOTEL. W. H. Irish, Mgr. Open all the year. BATH, Me. NEW MEADOWS INN. C. H. Cahill, Prop. Lobster dinners. BEACH BLUFF, Mass. HOTEL PRESTON. J. A. Sherrard, Prop. An imposing structure, delightfully located on a bluff overlooking the ocean. Capacity 300. Rooms singly or en suite, with and without baths. The best of service, cuisine, and modern hotel equipment. Bathing beach. Our own garage and livery. American plan: $5 up. BEACH PARK, Conn. CASINO HOTEL. If tired of extortion, tired of gimcrack show, and longing for oldfashioned honesty, comfort, and satisfying meals, expertly prepared, try this little place, kept by Blake and Wife. Just try her clam-fritters and lobster. Suits and everything ready for a sea-bath, if wanted, before sitting down in our airy, cool, sea-view dining-room. You'll come again others do. (Phone, telegraph, post office, supply store, right here.) SIGNS POINT TO us FROM HIGHWAY, EAST OF CLINTON; macadamized State Road, i mile. BELGRADE LAKES, Me. THE BELGRADE. C. A. Hill & Son, Props, and Mgrs. $3.50 up. Rooms en suite with baths. Garage for 50 machines. BENNINGTON, Vt. THE WALLOOMSAC INN. Walter H. Berry, Prop. $3 up. THE BENNINGTON GARAGE. Storage and Supplies. 7Q6 DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. BETHLEHEM, N.H. THE SINCLAIR HOTEL. Harrington &McAuliffe. Capacity 300. Rate $4 up. Garage. THE UPLANDS. Frank H. Abbott & Son, Props, and Mgrs. TURNER'S TAVERN. Geo. H. Turner, Prop. $3 and $3.50 BOOTHBAY HARBOR, Me. OAKE GROVE HOTEL. W. H. Read & Son. American plan. SHERMAN'S GARAGE. Chas. E. Sherman & Son, Props. BOSTON, Mass. HOTEL BRUNSWICK, Boylston Street, near Copley Square. Fred E. Jones, Prop, and Mgr. One block from Public Library. Leading theaters and smartest shops are nearby. Modern and popular GRILL ROOM and FLEMISH CAFE. Superior cuisine and service. Club breakfasts, special hot and cold luncheons, and table d'hote dinners. Suites of one or several rooms with bath. Homelike surroundings. AMPLE ACCOMMODATIONS for TOURING PARTIES or PERMANENT GUESTS. European plan: $1.50 up; American plan : $4 up. COPLEY-PLAZA HOTEL, Copley Square. Edward C. Fogg, Man aging Director. Capacity 500. All rooms with bath. Single, $3 to $5. Double, $5 to"$8. HOTEL PURITAN, 390 Commonwealth Ave. C. G. Costello, Mgr. Attractive and Homelike. Capacity 200. European plan: $2 Up. HOTEL THORNDIKE. Opposite Public Garden. European plan. BOURNE, Mass. HORACE S. CROWELL. 60 State St., Boston. REAL ESTATE BROKER. Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod. BRANFORD, Conn. THE MONTOWESE. W. A. Bryan. Capacity 250. BRATTLEBORO, Vt. BROOKS HOUSE. Geo. E. Sherman, Mgr. Garage. BRETTON WOODS, N.H. THE MOUNT WASHINGTON. D. J. Trudeau, Mgr. Capacity 550. Transient rates $7 up. BREWSTER, Mass. THE SIGN OF THE LINDEN TREE. Afternoon Tea. DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 7Q7 BRIDGEPORT, Conn. THE STRATFIELD. F. A. Cantwell, Mgr. 275 rooms, 260 with bath. European plan : $1.50 up. BROOKLINE, Mass. FRANK A. RUSSELL. REAL ESTATE Exclusively. 1315 Beacon St. (Coolidge Corner) and Old South Bldg., Boston. BURLINGTON, Vt. THE NEW SHERWOOD. B. W. Freeman, Mgr. 197 rooms, 75 with bath. Roof Garden. American plan. VAN NESS HOUSE. E. P. Woodbury, Prop. Roof Garden. HOTEL VERMONT. R. F. Collamer, Mgr. 350 rooms. BUZZARDS BAY, Mass. H. NELSON EMMONS & CO. REAL ESTATE. Office, Boston. CAMBRIDGE, Mass. VASSALL HOUSE, Brattle St. Cool and Quiet. $3 up. CHATHAM, Mass. CHATHAM BARS INN. N. A. Eldridge, Prop. Golf, Shooting, Fishing, Sailing, and Bathing. ALL MODERN COMFORTS. $5 up. HOTEL MATTAQUASON. F. Wilkey, Prop. Capacity 150. $4 up. Garage. Right on the Ocean. Golf, Tennis, etc. CHESTER, Mass. RIVERSIDE INN. F. E. Hopkins. American plan: $2.50 up. COHASSET, Mass. GEORGE A. COLE. REAL ESTATE. 50 Congress St., Boston. BENJAMIN C. TOWER. REAL ESTATE. 35 Congress St., Boston. CONCORD, N.H. THE EAGLE HOTEL. O. J. Pelren, Mgr. A modern hostelry with large, cool, and comfortable rooms, newly fitted with private baths. ALL OUTSIDE ROOMS. Capacity 300. Situated on the main street, opposite the civic center. The DINING ROOM is cool and commodious. Here the Traveling Public will enjoy the best of food expertly prepared. The service in the hotel is of the best. American plan. Reasonable and at- tractive rates. MEALS at $i a specialty. In the rear and connected with the hotel is the Eagle Garage. 7QS DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC CONCORD, Mass. COLONIAL INN. F. Sutler, Prop. $2.50 up; with bath $3.50. Open all the year. KNOWN SINCE 1770. GREEN ARBOR TEA ROOM. Lexington Road. Lunch 12 to 2. COTUIT, Mass. SANTUIT HOUSE and Cottages. Capacity 200. $3.50 to $6. CRAWFORD NOTCH, N.H. CRAWFORD HOUSE. Capacity 300. $4.50 up. 200 rooms. DANBURY, Conn. HOTEL GREEN. A. S. Taylor, Mgr. European plan: $i up. DEDHAM, Mass. HAYES & WELCH. REAL ESTATE. 30 State St., Boston. DENNIS, Mass. HOTEL NOBSCUSSET. A. W. MacDougall, Mgr. $2.50 up. DIXVILLE NOTCH, N.H. THE BALSAMS. C. H. Gould, Mgr. Capacity 250. $5 up. DOVER, Mass. WALTER CHANNING, Jr. REAL INSTATE. 50 Congress St., Boston. Gentlemen's Estates, Country Properties, Desirable Summer Residences, Farms, etc., for sale and to rent. DUXBURY, Mass. POWDER POINT HALL and Cottages. Charles M. Reade, Mgr. $3.50 to $5. An Ideal Family Resort. EAST PRINCETON, Mass. WHIP-POOR-WILL INN. CHICKEN DINNERS our Specialty. FABYAN, N.H. FABYAN HOUSE. Capacity 300. $4.50 up. FAIRFIELD, Conn. THE UNQUOWA HOTEL. A COLONIAL HOUSE on the Post Road. FAIRHAVEN, Mass. TABITHA INN. C. J. Beuchotte, Prop. Capacity 100. $4 up. FAIRHAVEN GARAGE. Storage and Supplies. Reliable work. FAIRLEE, Vt. THE KAULIN. G. H. Kendall, Prop. Capacity 100. $3. 50 to $5. DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 799 FALL RIVER, Mass. HOTEL MELLEN. Centrally located. European plan. FALMOUTH, Mass. THE SIPPEWISSETT. Frederick Wilkey, Prop. On the ocean. Sailing, Fishing, Golf, Tennis. Rooms with and without bath. $5 up. Garage. Ideal Bathing. Temp, of water 74 degrees. TERRACE GABLES. W. L. Draper, Prop. Capacity 200. $3 up. HORACE S. CROWELL. 60 State St., Boston. REAL ESTATE BROKER. Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod. H. NELSON EMMONS & CO. REAL ESTATE. Office, Boston. FITZWILLIAM DEPOT, N.H. LAUREL LAKE INN. Water Sports. Garage and Livery. $3 up. FRAMINGHAM, Mass. FREDERICK A. KING. 41 Concord St. Tel. 655. Farms, Sum- mer Homes, Country Real Estate. Motor Service. FRANCONIA NOTCH, N.H. NEW PROFILE HOUSE. C. H. Greenleaf, Pres. Capacity 500. GARDNER, Mass. WINDSOR HOUSE. On the Mohawk Trail route. $3 up. GLOUCESTER, Mass. THE MOORLAND. BASS ROCKS. E. D. Parsons, Mgr. Capac- ity 300. $3.50 up. HOTEL THORWALD. BASS ROCKS. L. Roberts, Mgr. $4 up. GREAT BARRINGTON, Mass. THE BERKSHIRE INN. Caleb Ticknor & Son, Props. All modern comforts. Capacity 250. $5 up. EASTLAND GARAGE. J. T. Harper, Prop. Supplies, Storage. WILLIAM H. MILLS. REAL ESTATE. 7 East 42d St., New York. GREENFIELD, Mass. THE WELDON HOTEL. N. A. Campbell, Mgr. Concrete Con- struction. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. Summer and Winter Sports. THE MANSION HOUSE. H. L. Wood, Prop. European Plan: $i-$2 per day; American Plan: $3-^4 per day. FIREPROOF GARAGE connected. 8co DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. GREENWICH, Conn. THE COSCOB INN. J. L. Casaux, Mgr. Meals a la carte. THE EDGEWOOD. Alfred S. Amer Co., Props. $5 up. ALLEN BROTHERS' GARAGE. Always open. LAURENCE TIMMONS. Opposite Railroad Station. Tel. 456. Shore Estates, City Estates, Cottages, Villas, Farms, Acreage, etc., in Greenwich and vicinity. HANDSOME HOMES, on both shore and inland property, with large or small grounds as desired, for sale at all prices. Prompt and reliable information given. Facilities for showing properties at any time. Ready to quote with definiteness the best purchase price or rental figure. Write, call, or telephone. GROTON, Conn. THE GRISWOLD. H. D. Saxton, Mgr. At Eastern Point. Lead- ing Resort Hotel. Over 150 suites with bath. $35 per week and up. GROTON, Mass. GROTON INN. L. A. Dodge, Prop. Always open. Historically famous, dating from 1770. 35 rooms. Rates $3 to $4. Garage. HANOVER, N.H. CHARLES H. DUDLEY. Athletic goods of every description. Clothing for the MOTORIST. Outfits for Golf and all Winter Sports. Superior Quality Shaker Sweaters. Outfitter to Dart- mouth College and to more than fifty summer camps. THE HANOVER INN. Open summer and winter. Garage. HARRISON, Me. SUMMIT SPRING HOTEL. J. B. Blake, Mgr. Capacity 60. HARTFORD, Conn. ALLYN HOUSE. Cor. Asylum and Trumbull Sts. Capacity 300. HOTEL BOND AND ANNEX. H. S. Bond, Mgr. Capacity 550. European plan: Hotel Bond $2 up; Bond Annex $1.50 up. HIGHLAND COURT HOTEL. 50 Windsor Ave. Advertised as "AN HOTEL FOR HOME LOVERS" is the largest Hartford Hotel. It is located overlooking the city and has a unique arrangement of inclusive rates. KENEY TOWER HOTEL. 271 High St., cor of Main St. Hart- ford's new moderate-priced Hotel. European plan : $i and $i .50 single; $2 and $2.50 double. All outside rooms. THE AETNA GARAGE. 1225 Main St. Storage and Repairs. HARVEY & LEWIS. PHOTO SUPPLIES and OPTICAL GOODS, DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 801 HENNIKER, N.H. THE HENNIKER INN. D. L. Young, Prop. Open all the year. Ideal stopping place for the tourist. Spacious piazzas. A COLONIAL INN THAT COMPLETELY SATISFIES. $2.50 to $3.50. HINGHAM, Mass. GEORGE A. COLE. REAL ESTATE. 50 Congress St., Boston. HOLLISTON, Mass. FREDERICK A. KING. REAL ESTATE. (See Framingham.) HOLYOKE, Mass. THE NONOTUCK. Gorham Benedict, Mgr. European plan. $1.50 up. Opened in 1915. HUDSON, Mass. FREDERICK A. KING. (Branch Office.) Savings Bank Building. FARMS AND COUNTRY ESTATES. (See Framingham.) HYANNIS, Mass. ABERDEEN HALL. Mrs. Frances P. Yeager, Prop. Delightfully situated on Vineyard Sound. All summer attractions. Garage. THE EAGLESTON INN AND GIFT SHOP. J. V. Eagleston, Prop. HYANNISPORT, Mass. H. NELSON EMMONS & CO. REAL ESTATE. Office, Boston. JEFFERSON, N.H. THE WAUMBECK. C. V. Murphy, Lessee. Capacity 500. $5 up per day. $28 up per week. Golf, Tennis, Automobiling. KENNEBUNKPORT, Me. BREAKWATER COURT. R. W. Norton, Prop, too rooms. $5 up. OLD FORT INN. Nevin and Duffield, Props. 125 rooms. $4 up. LAKEVILLE, Conn. FARNAM TAVERN. W. B. Perry, Jr., Landlord. A Colonial Tavern, more like a home than a hotel. ALWAYS OPEN, offer- ing hospitality to travelers desiring conveniences, cleanliness, and comfort. Cozy headquarters for winter sports. $4 a day. Special terms for winter parties. LEE, Mass. THE GREENOCK INN. Located on Franklin St., just off Main. Has spacious grounds surrounded by trees. Wide verandas. Two minutes' walk from post office and trolley. 100 sleeping rooms, 30 private baths. Write for booklet and rates. THE PARK GARAGE. R. C. Benjamin, Mgr. Open all (he year. 802 DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. LENOX, Mass. HOTEL ASPINWALL. Capacity 500. Grill, Garage. $5 up. CURTIS HOTEL. W. D. Curtis, Prop. Open May to November. LYME, Conn. OLD LYME INN. H. M. Caulkins, Prop. $2.50 per day and up. MAGNOLIA, Mass. THE OCEANSIDE and Cottages. Capacity 800. $5 up. MANCHESTER, Vt. THE EQUINOX. A. E. Martin, Mgr. Capacity 350. $5 up. MAPLEWOOD, N.H. MAPLEWOOD HOTEL, Inn and Cottages. Capacity 400. $5 up. Dairy products from Maplewood Farm. Golf Links. MARBLEHEAD, Mass. HOTEL ROCK-MERE. G. H. Brackett, Mgr. Faces the Yacht- ing. Capacity 300. $5 per day up. GARDNER R. HATHAWAY. REAL ESTATE. Specialist in the Sale or Rental of Seashore Properties. Furnished Cottages. MARION, Mass. THE SIPPICAN. Harry T. Miller, Mgr. Capacity 150. HORACE S. CROWELL. 60 State St., Boston. REAL ESTATE BROKER. Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod. H. NELSON EMMONS & CO. REAL ESTATE. Office, Boston. MARLBORO, Mass. YE OLDE GATES INN. Geo. E. Bicknell, Prop. Built in 1667. FREDERICK A. KING. REAL ESTATE. (See Framingham.) MEDFIELD, Mass. WALTER CHANNING, Jr. REAL ESTATE. (See Dover, Mass.) MERIDEN, N.H. THE DEXTER RICHARDS HALL. J. O. Cook, Mgr. $2.50 to $3. MILLIS, Mass. WALTER CHANNING, Jr. REAL ESTATE. (See Dover, Mass.) MT. KISCO, N.Y. WILLIAM H. MILLS. REAL ESTATE. 7 East 42d St., New York. DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 803 NAPLES, Me. BAY OF NAPLES HOTEL. John C. Hill, Mgr. Capacity 200. $4 up. Special service to motorists at all hours. NARRAGANSETT PIER, R.I. THE MATHEWSON. S. W. Mathevvson. Capacity 500. $4 up. Grill, Golf, Tennis, Boating. Garage. THE IMPERIAL. W. A. Nye, Mgr. Capacity 300. $5 up. NEEDHAM, Mass. WALTER CHANNING, Jr. REAL ESTATE. (See Dover, Mass.) NEWBURYPORT, Mass. THE WOLFE TAVERN. D. H. Fowle & Son. Props. NEWCASTLE, N.H. HOTEL WENTWORTH. H. W. Priest, Pres. & Mgr. Capacity 500. $5 up. Golf, Tennis, Boating, Hot and Cold Sea-Water Baths. NEW HARTFORD, Conn. NEW HARTFORD HOTEL. Harry Donohue, Prop. On the main state road 18 miles from Hartford. Specialty Sunday Chicken Dinners, ysc. NEW HAVEN, Conn. HOTEL TAFT. Merry & Boomer, Mgrs. 350 rooms. $2 up. NEW ENGLAND ENGINEERING CO. 50 Crown St. "ExiDE" Batteries. Specialists in reliable STORAGE BATTERY and START- ING and LIGHTING Service. NEW LONDON, Conn. THE MOHICAN HOTEL. F. B. Walker, Mgr. Midway between New York and Boston. The leading Automobile Hotel of Connecticut. Eleven stories in height. Roof Garden and Ballroom. Fireproof Construction. A thoroughly metropolitan hotel in every detail of equipment, service, and cuisine. A convenient and centrally located stopping place for the auto- mobilist. 400 rooms with private baths. European plan. Rates $1.50 to $3.50 single, $3 to $12.50 double. Garage ac- commodations. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. NEW MONTE CRISTO GARAGE. J.P.Sullivan. Washington St. NEWPORT, R.I. NEW CLIFFS HOTEL. J. V. Jordan, Mgr. Capacity 120. $4. 804 DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. NORFOLK, Conn. THE WANGUM HOUSE. Verner F. Gidman, Prop. American plan: $2 and $2.50 per day. Centrally located, two minutes' walk from the railroad station and post office. House is of brick, four floors, of steel construction and steam heated. An Ideal Stopping Place for the tourist. NORTHAMPTON, Mass. PLYMOUTH INN. W. A. Senna, Mgr. Capacity 125. $3-85. "YE ROSE TREE INN." A. de Naucaze, Prop. "The Daintiest Dinner in New England." NORTHBORO, Mass. FREDERICK A. KING. REAL ESTATE. (See Framingham.) NORTH CONWAY, N.H. THE KEARSAGE. J. L. Gibson, Mgr. Capacity 250. $4 up. NORTHFIELD, Mass. THE NORTHFIELD, East Northfield, Mass., Ambert G. Moody, Mgr. OPEN ALL THE YEAR. Near The Northfield Schools and Conferences. Tennis, Golf, Driving, and Motoring. Garage and Livery. Comfortable in winter. Skating, Tobog- ganing, Sleighing, and Snowshoeing. $12 to $38 per week. THE BOOKSTORE. Souvenirs, Post Cards and Photographs. NORWALK, Conn. ROYAL JAMES INN. Tom Gay, Prop. European plan. OLD ORCHARD BEACH, Me. HOTEL VESPER. C. H. Campbell, Mgr. Capacity 150. $3 up. OSTERVILLE WIANNO, Mass. EAST BAY LODGE. N. H. Bearse, Prop. Boating and Bathing. H. NELSON EMMONS & CO. REAL ESTATE. Office, Boston. PETERSHAM, Mass. THE NICHEWAUG. Elevation 1150 ft. Jsne 10 to Sept. 25. PITTSFIELD, Mass. THE MAPLEWOOD. A. W. Plumb, Mgr. Capacity 300. $4 up. Golf, Tennis at Country Club. Garage. Send for booklet. THE WENDELL. Capacity 250. European plan: 81.50 up. DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 805 PLYMOUTH, Mass. HOTEL PILGRIM. P. F. Brine, Mgr. Capacity 150. SAMOSET HOUSE. Motor Inn. $4 up. POLAND SPRING, Me. POLAND SPRING HOUSE. Hiram Ricker & Sons, Props. MANSION HOUSE. Open all the year. Capacity 150. $4 up. PORTLAND, Me. CONGRESS SQUARE HOTEL. Portland's New and Popular Hotel. Dining room on seventh floor. NEW CHASE HOUSE. 434 Congress St. European plan : $i up. PORTSMOUTH, N.H. ROCKINGHAM HOTEL. Geo. Q. Pattee, Prop. Cap. 200. $4 up. PROFILE HOUSE, N.H. PROFILE HOUSE and Cottages. C. H. Greenleaf, Pres. Capac- ity 500. $6 up; bath $7. Golf, Tennis. Garage. PROVIDENCE, R.I. THE CROWN HOTEL. Capacity 400. European plan. NARRAGANSETT HOTEL. European plan: $1.50 up. ROCKLAND, Me. THE SAM-0-SET. Ricker Hotel Company. F. C. Moore, Mgr. Capacity 200. $5 up. Golf, Tennis, Boating, Bathing, Garage. Fifteenth Season, June 17 to Sept. 9, 1916. RUTLAND, Vt. HOTEL BERWICK. A. J. Boynton, Mgr. Capacity 200. $3.50 up. New Fireproof Garage. Capacity 200 Cars. RYE, N.Y. WILLIAM H. MILLS. REAL ESTATE. 7 East 42d St., New York. SHELBURNE FALLS, Mass. "THE HOUSE OF MAPLES." Alice Brown, Prop. On the road to the Mohawk Trail. Pure MAPLE SUGAR DAINTIES. Maple Syrup, Maple Sugar Cream, and Maple Sugar Hearts. Afternoon Tea. 806 DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. SHERBORN, Mass. WALTER CHANNING, Jr. REAL ESTATE. (See Dover, Mass.) SOUTHBORO, Mass. SOUTHBORO ARMS is noted for its excellence. Rooms have Baths. Piazza Cafe. FREDERICK A. KING. REAL ESTATE. (See Framingham.) SOUTH NATICK, Mass. OLD NATICK INN. Miss Harris, Mgr. Tel. Natick 8610. Large and Comfortable Rooms. Suites with Bath. Excellent Table. Both Dining Room and Tea Room. A multitude of attractions. Picturesque walks and drives. Canoeing. Reading Room. Open Fires. Wide Piazzas. Convenient center for motorists. A fifty minute run from Boston by auto over Newton Boulevard and Commonwealth Ave. Garage. The INN may also be reached by carriage from Wellesley or by trolley from Natick. SPRINGFIELD, Mass. HOTEL KIMBALL. L. L. Pierce, Mgr. Capacity 500. $1.50 up. HOTEL WORTHY. William W. Benson, Mgr. Capacity 500. $1.50 up. Famous Cuisine. Faultless Service. STAMFORD, Conn. THE DAVENPORT. Capacity 200. European plan: $1.50 up. HOTEL MANOR. E. D. De Puy, Mgr. Capacity 150. $3.50 up WILLIAM H. MILLS. REAL ESTATE. 7 East 42d St., New York, DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 807 STOCKBRIDGE, Mass. RED LION INN. A. T. Treadway, Mgr. Capacity 200. $4 up. DANIEL B. FENN & BROTHER. BERKSHIRE REAL ESTATE. We have Furnished Cottages to Rent, Estates and Farms to Sell, in and about Stockbridge. Parties interested will find it to their advantage to apply to THE LOCAL AGENTS. If you wish to rent a Summer House or purchase a Country Estate, WRITE or CALL on us. SUDBURY, Mass. THE OLD TAP-HOOM THE PARLOR OF THE INN LONGFELLOW'S WAYSIDE INN. Edward R. Lemon, Landlord. A genuine old American Tavern made world-famous by the poet Longfellow. In historical and artistic interest theie is nothing like it this side of England, and few there as good. The Inn is filled with a rare and genuine collection of old furniture and old prints. The rooms occupied by Longfellow and Lafayette are preserved as nearly as possible in the con- dition they knew them. Good Chicken Dinners. Afternoon Tea. A few rooms by the day. Old Ballroom for House Parties. The Inn is on the Old Post Road, midway between Boston and Worcester, twenty-two miles from each. Follow the red markers on telegraph poles and fence posts. It stands in idyllic surroundings, a delightful center for walks and motor, trips. From Boston, take Commonwealth Ave. to Weston and Worcester State Road to the Inn. SUNAPEE LAKE, N.H. THE GRANLIDEN. W. W. Brown, Prop. Capacity 300. $5 up. SOO-NIPI-PARK LODGE. L. M. Waite, Mgr. 150 American plan: $4 up. Tennis, Boating, Fishing. rooms. Private baths, elevator, etc. Golf, Garage. 808 DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. SWAMPSCOTT, Mass. NEW OCEAN HOUSE. Puritan Road, Whale's Beach. Direct outlook upon the sea. SEVEN-STORY STEEL ANNEX built in 1916; private bath with every room, telephone, steam heat. Out-of-door sports include dancing, bathing, clock golf, croquet. Golf links near. Handsome parade entire length of new seawall. Excellent Garage. Summer rates (June 15 to Sept. 10), American plan: $5 up. Winter rates (Sept. 10 to June 15 ANNEX only inclusive plan with no tips), $7 up. For particulars write E. R. Grabow Company, Owners and Managers, 131 State St., Boston, Mass. WAREHAM, Mass. HORACE S. CROWELL. 60 State St., Boston. REAL ESTATE BROKER. Buzzards Bay and Cape Cod. WATCH HILL, R.I. NEW WATCH HILL HOUSE. A. E. Dick, Prop. $5 up. WATERBURY, Conn. THE ELTON. Almon C. Judd, Prop. Open all the year. Fire- proof. Modern Equipment. European plan: $1.50 up. WAYLAND, Mass. THE WAYLAND INN. 1775. Meals for automobilists. POOLE & BIGELOW. 70 Kilby St., Boston. Country proper ties of every description. Local representative, J. S. Seabury. WESTBORO, Mass. FREDERICK A. KING. REAL ESTATE. (See Framingham ) WESTON, Mass. POOLE & BIGELOW. 70 Kilby St., Boston. Country proper- ties of every description. (See Wayland.) DIRECTORY OF HOTELS, GARAGES, ETC. 8o(j WELLFLEET, Mass. CHEQUESSET INN. F. T. Organ, Mgr. Cool and Comfortable. $3 UP- WEST BARNSTABLE, Mass. "HARTSEASE INN." Lobster, Chicken, and Steak Dinners. WESTERLY, R.I. THE RHODE ISLAND. F. L. Furness, Mgr. European plan. WHITE PLAINS, N.Y. GEDNEY FARM HOTEL. Open the year round. Splendidly equipped. Capacity 300. $4 up. Large concrete garage. WILLIAMSTOWN, Mass. THE GREYLOCK HOTEL. Capacity 150. $4 up. JVTay to Nov. THE WILLIAMS INN. L. G. Treadway, Mgr. A COMFORTABLE HOMELIKE INN catering to a refined class of particular people. Admirably situated in the center of a beautiful College town, facing Mission Park with its famous Haystack Monument, which marks the birthplace of American Foreign Missions. The Inn is OPEN ALL THE YEAR, offering tennis, golf, etc., in summer and all the outdoor sports in winter. FORGET-ME-NOT-SHOP and Tea Room. 184 Main St. Lunch from ii A.M. to 3 P.M. $.75. A la carte from 9 A.M. to 6 P.M. WINCHENDON, Mass. , TOY TOWN TAVERN. Open all the year. $3.50 and up. Sum- mer and winter sports. Afternoon Tea in the Playhouse. WOODSTOCK, Vt. WOODSTOCK INN. A. B. Wilder, Mgr. Capacity 90. $5 up. WORCESTER, Mass. THE BANCROFT. Chas. S. Averill, Pres. and Managing Director. Worcester's NEW MILLION-DOLLAR FIREPROOF HOTEL. Opposite the park. 300 rooms. Capacity 500. Tariff $1.50 per day and upward. Rooms with private bath $2.50 per day and upward. YORK BEACH, Me. OCEAN HOUSE. W. J. Simpson, Prop. Capacity 250. $3. 50 up. YORK CLIFFS, Me. PASSACONAWAY INN. W. H. Torrey, Mgr. Capacity 150. DIRECTORY OF NEW ENGLAND SCHOOLS ABBOTT SCHOOL for Boys, Farmington, Me. George D. Church, head master. A well equipped small school for forty boys. Col- lege preparatory and business courses. $800. Summer tutoring school. COBURN CLASSICAL INSTITUTE, Waterville, Me. Drew T. Harthorn, head master. A coeducational school preparing for college. Also general courses. Endowed. KENT'S HILL SEMINARY, Kent's Hill, Me. J. O. Newton, Presi- dent. A coeducational school also known as Maine Wesleyan Seminary. On a large farm. Special courses: Music, Agri- culture, Business. ST. MARY'S SCHOOL for Girls, Concord, N.H., under the direction of Miss Isabel M. Parks, Principal. College preparatory and general courses. Music, Art, Domestic Science. Gymnasium and outdoor recreations. Three buildings. GODDARD SEMINARY, Barre, Vt., Orlando K. Hollister, Litt.D., Principal, is located in the Green Mountains. College entrance certificate. Music, Domestic Science, Commercial Course. State Teacher's Training Course. New Equipment. Large Endowment. Coeducational. FESSENDEN SCHOOL, West Newton, Mass. For young boys. Home atmosphere. Frederick J. Fessenden, Head Master. DANA HALL, Wellesley, Mass., Miss Helen Temple Cooke, Prin- cipal, Miss Adele Lathrop, Associate Principal, offers the ad- vantages of both country and city life. College Preparatory and General Courses. Tenacre, for Younger Girls. Pine Manor, the Post-graduate Department. WALNUT HILL SCHOOL for Girls, Natick, Mass. Miss Charlotte H. Conant and Miss Florence Bigelow, Princi- pals. Thorough College Preparation. Graduates yearly enter the leading colleges. Four buildings on a forty-acre campus. THE MISSES ALLEN SCHOOL, West Newton, Mass., Miss Lucy Ellis Allen, Principal, offers a genuine home life with individual and special attention to a limited number of girls. In addition to the college preparatory course advance work is given in art, history, literature, and music. Fine old Colonial house. RESTHAVEN, Mendon, Mass. Individual attention. Six teach- ers, specialists, for fifteen girls, varying ages. Music, college preparation. Large Farm. Outdoor life. An hour from Boston. Miss Seabury, Mendon, Mass. (Sio) DIRECTORY OF NEW ENGLAND SCHOOLS 811 BRADFORD ACADEMY, Bradford, Mass. Miss Laura A. Knott, Principal. The oldest institution in New England for the higher education of women. Four-year College Preparatory Course. Five-year General Course. Two-year Course for high school graduates. Art, Music, Domestic Science. Gym- nasium, Athletic Field, Tennis Courts. Happy and wholesome life. Faculty of twenty. ROGERS HALL SCHOOL for Girls, Lowell, Mass. Faces Rogers Fort Hill Park. 38 minutes from Boston. Thorough prepara- tion for all colleges. Advanced Course for graduates of High Schools. Large grounds for outdoor sports. Experienced instructors in charge of all athletics. New Gymnasium and Swimming Pool. For catalog address Miss Olive Sewall Par- sons, Principal. THE MARY A. BURNHAM SCHOOL for Girls. Northampton, Mass. Established by Miss Burnham in 1877. Situated on Elm St., opposite the Smith College Campus. College Preparatory, Graduating and Special Courses. Miss Helen E. Thompson, Head Mistress. BERKSHIRE SCHOOL, Sheffield, Mass. Seaver B. Buck, Head Master. The School occupies 350 acres on the eastern slope of Mt. Everett, overlooking the Housatonic Valley. The six-year course of study fits boys for college or any of the scientific schools. Careful supervision of study hour. Special instruction in Music, Drawing, and Dancing. 8l2 DIRECTORY OF NEW ENGLAND SCHOOLS SEA PINES SCHOOL OF PERSONALITY for Girls. The Cape climate is exceptionally favorable for outdoor life. One hundred acres; pine groves; 2000 feet of seashore. Horse- back riding. Gymnastics, Music, Handiwork, Household Arts. French, German, and Spanish by native teachers. College Pre- paratory, Cultural, Domestic Science, Secretarial, Advanced course of two years College studies including subjects in Sys- tematic Personality. Personal attention and care. Write for booklet and further information. Rev. Thomas Bickford, A.M., Miss Faith Bickford, Principals, P.O. Box 2. Brewster, Cape Cod, Massachusetts. HILLSIDE SCHOOL for Girls, Norwalk, Conn. Founded by Elizabeth B. Mead, 1833. From primary to col- lege. General and special courses. Separate school house. Lodge for younger girls. New gymnasium. Small classes. Outdoor sports. Margaret R. Brendlinger, A.B., Vida Hunt Francis, B.L., Principals. RUMSEY HALL, Cornwall, Conn. A school for young boys in the beautiful Litchfield Hills. Careful preparation to enter sec- ondary schools without conditions. Particular attention paid to the formation of manly character and good habits. Louis H. Schutte, B.A., M.A., Headmaster. MISS BANGS AND MISS WHITON'S SCHOOL for Girls. Riverdale Ave., near 252d St., New York City. The only Country School for Girls in New York City. Thirty- five acres overlooking the Hudson river. Large enough to be a Real School. Small enough to be a Real Home. Unexcelled Music Department. Students admitted to College upon Cer- tificate. DIRECTORY OF SUMMER CAMPS IN NEW ENGLAND FOR BOYS AND GIRLS CAMP ABENA for Girls, Belgrade, Me. Tenth Season. All land and water sports. Horseback-riding and archery. Miss Hor- tense Hersom, Sidwells' Friends School, Washington, D.C. KINEO CAMPS for Boys, Long Lake, Harrison, Me. Irving G. McColl, Hotel McAlpin, New York City, Director. The Camp Council, all mature men, one to each group of three boys. Horseback-riding under West Point Army Officers. All Water Sports, many trips, Kineo Scouts, Honor System. For boys under sixteen. Classified according to age and development in three separate camps Juniors, Middlers, and Seniors. KINEOWATHA CAMPS for Girls, Wilton, Me. Irving G. McColl and Elizabeth Bass, Directors. Three camps for girls from eight to twenty. Comfortable electric lighted bungalows with fireplaces and open sleeping quarters; complete modern plumb- ing. Horseback-riding under West Point Army Officers. Boat- ing, Canoeing, Arts and Crafts, many trips. KINGSWOOD CAMP, Bridgton, Me. For young boys only. All sports. Home atmosphere. Ralph I. Underbill, Director, White Plains, N.Y. CAMP MERRYWEATHER for Boys, North Belgrade, Me. Lim- ited number of boys. Henry Richards, Gardiner, Me. OHUIVO, a Camp for Girls, Oxford, Me. Directors: Miss M. L. Hanaburgh, 511 E. 6gth St., N.Y. City, and Miss Mary North, 147 Park St., Montclair, N.J. Dry, airy location on Thompson's Lake. Pine wtoods, crafts, sports, swimming. Coun- cilor for every four girls. SEBAGO-WOHELO is a camp for girls on beautiful Lake Sebago, Maine, conducted by Dr. and Mrs. Luther H. Gulick, Founders and Promoters of Camp Fire Girls. A summer in this camp is not merely a summer of outdoor play, but is an educative experi- ence leading one to higher and more wholesome liv- ing. It is an outdoor life where bodily control is ac- quired through play. It is an art school where DIRECTORY OF SUMMER CAMPS hand crafts are taught. It is a social unit where love and ap- preciation reign. Prospective patrons are invited to visit the camp by appointment. Address Mrs. L. H. Gulick, South Casco, Me. CAMP WAWENOCK, Raymond Cape, Sebago Lake, Me. For Boys. Nature craft, Woodcraft, Scouting, Canoeing, Swim- ming, Boating, etc. Mile of shore front. Tuition $150. Ad- dress Dr. W. C. Kendall, 3413 i3th St., N.W., Washington, D.C. CAMP WINNECOOK, Lake Winnecook, Unity, Me. Est. 1903. Athletic Fields for all sports. Canoeing, sailing, motor-cruising, Indian tribes, archery, woodcraft, auto trips, hikes. Photog- raphy, metal, leather and bead projects. Tents and bungalows in pines. Prod- uce from our own farm. Excellent food -plenty of it. Booklet. Herbert L. Rand, 25 Shore Road, Salem, Mass. CAMP ALGONQUIN, on Asquam Lake, N.H., has for thirty years been maintained by Edwin DeMeritte, DeMeritte School, Boston, Mass. A thousand boys have known its delights. It occupies an eighteen-acre peninsula. All water sports. Nature study. Boy Scouts. Life-saving Corps. First Aid. CAMP FESSENDEN, near the head of Lake Ossipee, P.O. West Ossipee, N.H., is a small camp maintained by Walter L. Nourse of the Fessenden School, West Newton, Mass, with two asso- ciates, all college men. MISHE-MOKWA, a Summer Camp for Boys, occupies the whole of Redhead Island in Lake Winnepc- saukee, P.O. West Alton, N. H. L. Theodore Wallis, A.B., Browne and Nichols School, Cambridge, Mass.. the director, is a specialist in the physical development of boys. The camp equipment includes the fast speed boat, Grey Wolf. Aqua- planing is one of the features. Ten- nis, photography, exploring, gym- nastic stunts, fishing, making boats, building shacks, mountain-climbing, swimming, and all the usual camp sports are amply provided for. CAMP PASQUANEY for Boys, on Newfound Lake, Bridgewater, N.H., in its twenty-second season, occupies a dry, carefully se- lected location overlooking the lake. Edward S. Wilson. DIRECTORY OF SUMMER CAMPS CAMP HANOUM for Girls, Thetford, Vt., on Thetford Hill, was established in 1908 on the old Farnsworth homestead by Pro- fessor and Mrs. Charles H. Farnsworth, Teachers College, Columbia Uni- versity, N.Y. City. The camp is divided into two groups less than a mile apart, The Hill Camp for younger girls, The Lake Camp for older girls. Swimming and canoeing are on a beautiful private lake. Tramping and horseback trips to the White and Green Moun- tains give opportunities for learning campcraft. Handicrafts under special councilors encourage original designing and the development of individual capabilities. Social dancing, folk dancing, and interpretive dancing. CAMP COTUIT, East Sandwich, Cape Cod, Mass. Directors: The Misses Emma, Emilie, and Helene I. Schumacher, and Miss Mary B. Nethercut. A wooded roadway with an occasional glimpse of the sea brings you to Lawrence Lake, on the shores of which stands the camp. The equipment consists of a main building with office, indoor recreation rooms, infirmary, and tents. The swimming is to be in the charge of Mr. John Mitch- ell, instructor at Pratt Institute. Campers who ride horseback will be accompanied by the riding master and the chaperone. Girls of all ages taken. Camp season $175. Address all com- munications to Miss H. I. Schumacher, East_Sandwich, Mass. CHINQUEKA CAMP for Girls, Bantam Lake. Among the Litchfield Hills, Conn. Altitude 1000 ft. David Layton, M.S., Director, 669 Dawson St., New York City. PUBLISHERS' ANNOUNCEMENTS D. APPLETON & COMPANY. 2 9-35 West 32d St., New York. OUT-OF-DOORS, by Emerson Hough. $1.25 net. MARY 'GUSTA, by Joseph C. Lincoln. A cleverly told Cape Cod story. $1.35 net. THE CENTURY COMPANY. 353 Fourth Ave., New York. THE LURE OF THE ANTIQUE, by Walter A. Dyer. A guide for those who buy old furniture. $2.40 net. THE QUEST OF THE COLONIAL, by Robert and Eliza- beth Shackleton. An appropriate gift book. $2.40 net. DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY. Fourth Ave. & 3oth St., New York. WE DISCOVER NEW ENGLAND, by Louise Closser Hale, author of "The Motor Car Divorce," etc. With full- page illustrations from drawings by Walter Hale. Mrs. Hale describes her delightful motor tour with her hus- band through the mountain and shore land of New England. The charm of the sleepy old Connecticut towns, and the beauties of the North Shore, the White Mountains, the Green Mountains, and the Berkshires are some of the interesting features touched upon. With hotels, routes, and a map. Boxed, $2.00 net. DOUBLEDAY, PAGE & CO. Garden City, New York. THE POCKET NATURE LIBRARY. Hundreds of inter- esting facts about trees, butterflies, birds, and flowers, given by leading authorities, and illustrated in natural colors. Pocket size, bound in limp leather. Over 700 color plates. THE LIGHTNING CONDUCTOR DISCOVERS AMER- ICA, by A. N. and A. M. Williamson. $1.35 net. HARPER & BROTHERS. Franklin Square, New York. IN VACATION AMERICA, by Harrison Rhodes. $1.50 net. HENRY HOLT AND COMPANY. 34 W. 32d St., New York. THE SPINSTER, by Sarah N. Cleghorn. A delightful picture of New England village life. NORTH OF BOSTON, by Robert Frost. $1.25 net. HILLSBORO PEOPLE. Stories about a Vermont village. "The full flavor of New England is in them all." $1.35 net. JOHN LANE CO. 120 W. 32d St., New York. SEA AND BAY, by Charles Wharton Stork. A poem of New England, full of realism, interest, and beauty. (816) FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND WALTER BAKER & CO., LIMITED, Milton, Mass. As an American industry cocoa grinding and mixing has the dig- nity of years. In 1765 the first chocolate mill was erected on the north bank of the Neponset river, where Mill No. 5 of the Walter Baker plant stands. John Hannan, an Irish immigrant who learned the trade in London, induced one of the Dorchester millers to put a little capital into the experiment. On Hannan's decease some years later Dr. James Baker took over the business and founded the house now most prominent among American chocolate makers. From a little wooden mill the business has expanded to six large buildings on both sides of the river, with eleven and one half acres of floor space, besides yards, storehouses, and power plants. Walter Baker, grandson of the Doctor, gave the Baker name permanently to the firm. The Baker product has been intentionally individualized. It has been kept free from adulterants, and such treatments as the Dutch process, and other chemical methods of flavoring or coloring are shunned. The cocoa itself, freed from excessive oil, is the product by which this house is determined to stand or fall. Vanilla beans and sugar are the only material added to any of the chocolates that the firm produces. The plant well repays a visit. Booklets are furnished freely on request. WALTHAM WATCHES Not so many years ago it was common opinion that watches of European make were the only good timepieces. Today America leads the world in watch making and WALTHAM WATCHES are famous among those of American make. WALTHAM WATCHES are so well designed and so carefully made that they will, if properly cared for, last a lifetime. The first watch factory at Waltham was built in 1854. This has developed into one of the largest and most perfectly equipped fac- tories of the present day. The main building is 1000 feet long. The Company has over 4000 employees. WALTHAM WATCHES are a product of skill and intelligence. 17,000,000 are now in use. They are chosen by watch experts because of their accuracy and dependability. Emerson, some years ago, in describing the best kind of a man, said of him: "He is put together like a Waltham Watch." (817) 8i8 FAMOUS PRODUCTS' OF NEW ENGLAND HENRY F. MILLER & SONS PIANO CO. 395 Boylston St., Boston. 1105 Chestnut St., Philadelphia, Pa. 25 Forest Ave., Portland, Me. Factory at Wakefield, Mass. HENRY F. MILLER was a musician and salesman when he started to build pianos in 1863; he made pianos only of the best quality, the kind he liked to play and was proud to sell. His sons and grandsons have main- tained his reputation by a strict adherence to his standards, so today more than ever the name "HENRY F. MILLER" is always included in the short list of the leading pianos of the world. Tone, touch, style, and wear are the watchwords of their pro- gress; they are endorsed by musicians everywhere for their quality; they appeal to the pur- chaser for their handsome case designs, and their service is measured by a lifetime. You are cordially invited to visit any of our warerooms and per- sonally examine the various styles of PIANOFORTES and PLAYER- FORTES with no obligation to buy. THE LYRIC GRAND THE WILCOX AND WHITE CO., Meriden, Conn. The Makers of the ANGELUS PLAYER PIANOS, the pioneer among pneumatic player-pianos. ' For more than sixty-seven years the members of the White family of New England have been engaged in the manufacture, development, and perfecting of musical instru- ments. The first cabinet Angelus player piano was built in February, 1897. To quote from the United States official census bulletin: "This instrument, the invention of E. H. White, may be regarded as the pioneer of the various similar attachments that have since been placed on the market." The past twenty years have noted a constant improvement and development of the Angelus, until today it is a Player Piano upon which you can play like an accomplished pianist. This is because of the three exclusive and patented features which have made the Angelus world-famous; the PHRASING LEVER, a most valuable and important expression device, giving control of tempo only equaled by human fingers, the MELODANT, that emphasizes the theme or melody, and the DIAPHRAGM PNEUMATICS, through which the human touch is obtained. Write for Illustrated Booklet. FAMOUS PRODUCTS" OF NEW ENGLAND 819 HUNTINGTON PIANOS Made by THE HUNTINGTON PIANO CO., SHELTON, CONN. A. J. BROOKS, Pres.; J. T. BREWSTER, Treas.; J. W. BROOKS, Sec. and Mgr. In its first Catalog issued by THE HUNTINGTON PIANO CO. twenty years ago the company announced as its fundamental pur- pose, "To furnish at a moderate price an honestly made piano hav- ing all the essential qualities required to make it a desirable instru- ment," and "To make the HUNTINGTON PIANO an instrument that shall win on its merits." The success of the HUNTINGTON PIANO has been due to the strict adherence to these maxims. Growing business has called for several enlargements of plant, which today has a capacity for making 5000 pianos a year 44,000 now in use. Paderewski, the most renowned pianist, selected the HUNTING- TON as shown by this facsimile of his letter. Automobilists touring the beautiful Naugatuck valley should visit the factory at Shelton. The HUNTINGTON PLAYER-PIANO has all the eminent qualities of the HUNTINGTON PIANO. The New York City warerooms are at the corner of Fulton Street and Hanover Place, Brooklyn. The company also operate stores in New Haven, Conn., 801 Chapel St.; Bridgeport, Conn., 1056 Main St.; Yonkers, N.Y., 38 Warburton Ave.; and Pittsburgh, Pa., 931 Liberty Ave. The Huntington Piano Company is represented by dealers in nearly all large centers of New England. The beautiful illustrated HUNTINGTON CATALOG will be sent on request. 820 FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND GEO. H. ELLIS CO. Established 1873. Inc. 1901 272 Congress St., Boston, Mass. Geo. H. Ellis, Treasurer Albert W. Finlay, President THE SPACIOUS, WELL-LIGHTED PRESS-ROOM One of the largest printing plants in New England, completely equipped with all modern facilities for insuring quality and prompt- ness as applied to high-class work. A long and varied experience in producing catalogs, class books, prospectuses, periodicals, and books of every variety. Printers of the Sargent Handbooks. GEO. W. WHEELWRIGHT PAPER CO., Fitchburg, Mass. Makers of "BPF" Paper (Best Plate Finish Paper) Selected for this Handbook of New England as the best after a careful investigation of a score of others. "BPF" is especially made for those who wish to advertise attractively with half-tone illustrations. It is made in varying weights and colors. "BPF" Paper does not have a shiny surface, so causes little strain on the eyes. It is ten per cent lighter than Super-Calendered Paper of equal bulk. In catalogs it saves postage. Our papers are of standardized quality and uniformity can be relied upon. The Leominster Mill makes the wellknown "Dove Mill Brand" of Bristol Boards in many grades and colors. This Company was the pioneer in this kind of paper. FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND 821 THE YALE & TOWNE MFG. CO., 9 East 4oth St., New York Works at STAMFORD, CONN., where YALE Products are made. The birthplace of the Yale industry was at Newport, Herkimer County, N.Y. Linus Yale, Senior, who was born there in 1840, began the manufacture of "pin-tumbler" locks. His son, Linus Yale, Jr., in 1868 formed a partnership with Henry R. Towne. The Yale & Towne Manufacturing Company, beginning in Stam- ford, Conn., in 1869, with about thirty employees, under the man- agement of Henry R. Towne, has steadily grown. Scientific management and provisions for employees' welfare are made much of. In scope and diversity the company is the largest manufacturer of locks in the world. The Stamford plant covers 20 acres and has a capacity for over 4000 employees. 45,000 different kinds of articles are manufactured. YALE QUALITY is assured by trained experts and specialists; by laboratory tests; by a Training School for specialized mechanics; by critical inspection and tests of all products, during manufacture and when completed. You are invited to visit the unique Exhibit Rooms on the ground floor of our new office building, No. 9 E. 4oth St., N.Y. City. There you may enjoy beautiful wood-carvings, and metal work in endless variety of design and finish, and an exhibition of locks of every style, including the Yale Cylinder Lock in its many forms. Open daily to visitors from 9 A.M. to 5 P.M., Saturdays to 12 M. DANIEL LOW & CO., Salem, Mass. One of the most interesting stores in New England. A comprehensive stock of gold, silver, china, glassware, leather goods, and numberless novelties, and unusual things. Souvenirs of Salem, and Colonial reproductions in silver, china, and mahogany. This is not only a leading local enterprise, but one of America's great mail order concerns. A large catalog issued yearly goes out to thousands of customers in every State, and is sent free upon request. INTERNATIONAL SILVER COMPANY, Meriden, Conn. The three Rogers brothers discovered in 1847 a process of electro- silver plating, and a little later began the manufacture of " 1847 Rogers Bros" knives, forks, and spoons. The Meriden Britannia Company was able to supply the needed capital and factory facilities, so an alliance was formed and the manufacture proceeded under the direct supervision of the Rogers Brothers. The "1847 Rogers Bros" brand is, then, the original "Rogers Bros" silverware. The International Silver Company was formed in 1898 consoli- dating the Meriden Britannia Company and a number of the more important silver plate concerns of the country. Thus it became the direct commercial descendant of Rogers Brothers, and is today the largest makers of silverware in the world. This same " 1847 ROGERS BROS" brand of silver plate is the iden- tical make that graced the tables of our grandparents. Sold by leading dealers everywhere. 822 FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND THE MALLEABLE IRON FITTINGS CO. THE COMPANY S PLANT AT BRANFORD, CONN. The MALLEABLE IRON FITTINGS CO., incorporated in 1864, is one of the oldest malleable iron foundries in the country. It manufactures the wellknown MIF brand of malleable and steel pipe fittings, furnishes to order castings in malleable, steel, and special alloy metals, and does galvanizing, tinning, japanning, and contract machining. The buildings cover over ten acres of floor space and noo people are employed at the present time. THE L. S. STARRETT CO., Athol, Mass. Makers of Fine Mechanical Tools "The tools made by The L. S. Starrett Co. at Athol, Mass., are mainly for the use of machinists and carpenters. Among the more than 2100 different styles and sizes of tools made by this concern are a number of particular interest to owners and operators of auto r mobiles, such as Micrometer Calipers, Hack Saws and Frames, Center Punches, Steel Rules, Calipers and Dividers, Levels, Screw Thread Gages, etc. Three tools of great popularity for use in connection with auto- mobiles are the Electricians' Pocket Screw Driver which has four interchangeable blades and a hard rubber handle for insulation from electrical currents; the Starrett Patent Expansion Plier so made as to grip securely any size or shape within its capacity; and the Starrett Patent Automobile Wrench. There are lots of Ratchet Wrenches made, and the most of them cost less than the Starrett Wrench and they are worth less. The Starrett Patent Ratchet Wrench is fully up to the high standard maintained by the Starrett Tools in general, and is the wrench outfit for the man who will be satisfied with nothing but the best. If you have time you can stop and see these tools at the hardware store of C. F. Paige & Co., Inc., on Main Street, Athol, or you can get them through your local hardware dealer. The L. S. Starrett Co. will be glad to send a complete catalog of their tools to anyone who will write for it." FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND 823 CHENEY SILKS In 1838 at South Manchester, Conn., the Cheney Brothers began the manufacture of silk fabrics. Today they have there the largest silk manufacturing plant in the world, with 32 acres of floor space and 4500 operatives. Silk fabrics, so often thought to be a foreign product, are an American staple, through the efforts of this family. Cheney Broth- ers were the first people to print silk by machine; also the first to devise a successful process for making silks resist water-spotting. The beauty and wearing qualities of modern silks are due to the inventiveness of the New World. Cheney Silks include dress goods, upholstery and decorative fabrics, velvets, ribbons, cravats, and yarns. The booklet, " Cheney Silks, Why People Should Buy Them," sent postpaid on request. MONADNOCK MILLS, Claremont, N.H. Geo. A. Tenney, Treas. THE LARGEST AND FOREMOST MANUFACTURER OF HIGH GRADE MARSEILLES, SATIN, AND DIMITY BEDSPREADS IN AMERICA. Bedspreads of artistic design, with individual centers, for hotels and institutional service a specialty. The plant has the remarkable output of from two to three thou- sand spreads a day. DENNISON MANUFACTURING CO., Framingham, Mass. MANUFACTURERS OF TAGS, LABELS, CREPE PAPERS, ETC. Colonel Andrew Dennison, who won his military title in the War of 1812, was a shoemaker in Brunswick, Me. In 1844 his son, a Boston jeweler, made a visit home and suggested that his father supply the jewelry trade with suitable cardboard boxes, which at that time were imported and of cheap quality. Colonel Dennison took it up and two of his daughters helped to finish the first boxes made. E. W. Dennison, a brother, was the Yankee sales agent. In 1850 he opened a small salesroom at 203 Washington St., Boston, which later grew to the present business of Dennison Manufacturing Company. In 1850 eight persons did all the work. Today the company employs over 3000 persons. It has a large and up-to-date factory at Framingham, Mass., and it has retail stores in Boston, New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, and St. Louis. MAYHEW TOOLS H. H. MAYHEW COMPANY. Established 1856. Shelburne Falls, Mass. Makers of QUALITY TOOLS for more than half a century. Our auto kits of small tools are without question of inestimable value to every car owner, chauffeur, and garage keeper. Leaflets on request. If you appreciate good tools you will want to visit our "Factory beside the Falls" when passing through town. 824 FAMOUS PRODUCTS OF NEW ENGLAND CAPE COD PRODUCTS CO., North Truro, Mass. CAPE COD SOUVENIRS AND GIFTS: BAYBERRY CANDLES made from the fragrant wax of Cape Cod Bayberries. A box of our candles, as we put them up attractively, makes a delightful souvenir present of the Cape. A box of our four-inch hand-dipped tapers, 35 cents postpaid. WILD BEACH PLUM JELLY has a piquant flavor that reminds you of the Cape. Two glasses in an attractive box, safely mailed, 50 cents postpaid. Write for our attractive illustrated price list of Cape Cod specialties. BAYBERRY CANDLES in all sizes for souvenirs and Christmas gifts. BAYBERRY WOOD CANDLE STICKS, BAYBERRY WAX "THIMBLES." BEACH GRASS PIN TRAYS, SANDWICH TRAYS, and TABLE MATS. CAPE COD PICCALILLI from the receipt of a Cape Cod woman. When you are on the Cape, come and see us make these things. The candle dipping in the oldtime way is especially interesting. PACKER'S TAR SOAP Everybody knows of Tar Soap. And Tar Soap means Packer's. For years it has been made at Mystic, Conn., and shipped through- out the world. There is a reason for its popularity, a reason that is fundamental. Packer's Tar Soap is not merely soap plus tar. The ingredients so carefully blended are gathered in many lands. They are selected and combined for the specific purpose of producing worldwide satisfaction and a worldwide market. The proof of the pudding is the eating; the proof of the soap is the washing. POND'S EXTRACT The Household Panacea of our Grandmothers has its home at Clinton, Conn. No motorist can dispense with the soothing witch hazel extract. It is a solution in alcohol of abstracts from the Hamamelis, whose yellow cruciform flowers blossom in November all over New England. Even in the days of the Indian its healing properties made it one of the most popular of New England products. The first settlers learned its value as a poultice of bruised bark and as a lotion of its juices from the red men themselves. HIGHWAY CONSTRUCTION THE BARBER ASPHALT PAVING CO., Philadelphia, Pa. The New England States have several hundred miles of TRINIDAD LAKE and BERMUDEZ asphalt roads constructed both by the Mixing and the Penetration Process. In the former method the material is mixed hot with sand and stone, then placed on a suitable founda- tion and rolled to compaction. Penetration roads are made by plac- ing the stone on the road-bed, as for waterbound macadam, but asphalt is used as a binding material. The first cost of the pene- tration method is $3000 to $4000 or less per mile. Let us tell you the experiences many cities have had with our pavements. HASTINGS PAVEMENT COMPANY Office, 25 Broad St., New York. Works, Hastings-on-Hudson Asphalt block pavement is a patented block pavement, made of hard trap rock held together by an asphalt cement. The hot mix- ture is consolidated under tremendous pressure. Unlike a mono- lithic pavement, it is easily repaired. It has stood the test of time. The Albany Post Road, the Shore Road, as described in this book, are largely paved with asphalt blocks. An interesting booklet will be sent on request. LEHIGH PORTLAND CEMENT COMPANY Chicago, 111., Allentown, Pa., Spokane, Wash. A road 16 feet wide made with LEHIGH CEMENT costs approxi- mately $13,000 a mile. This is a little more than a macadam road would cost, but means ultimate saving because there is no rebuild- ing and practically no maintenance expense. Ancient Roman roads made of concrete may be found in use today. Five Eastern states, during the period 1905-1912, spent on the average $608 per mile per year for maintenance and repairs of their macadam roads. Hanson, the concrete road authority, says that a 1 6-foot concrete road costs approximately $50 per mile per year for maintenance. These figures explain the claim "Concrete for Permanence." Our interesting booklet "CONCRETE HIGHWAYS" is free for the asking. WARREN BROTHERS COMPANY, Boston, Mass. BITULITHIC is a patented macadam that has satisfied the test of years of experience. Bitulithic roads are found all over the country where good roads are appreciated. WARRENITE is the patented COUNTRY ROAD surfacing, that saves maintenance cost. The War- renite road means profit to every town and country that uses it, as well as to us. Write today for BITULITHIC or WARRENITE literature. A Postal Card Will Do. (825) 826 HIGHWAY CONSTRUCTION TARVIA IN NEW ENGLAND )AD CONSTRUCTED WITH TARVIA X, KITTERY, TARVIA and good roads in New England are so nearly synonymous that the New England Hotel Keepers' folder announces that the automobilist may travel everywhere in New England over splendid "TARVIA Highways." The oldest TARVIA Highways are in the vicinity of Boston, the Newton Boulevard, the Revere Beach Parkway, etc., but the mile- age has been extended year by year until a traveler over the highways is safe in ascribing every particularly pleasing bituminous surfaced road to TARVIA. The Springfield- Worcester road in Massachusetts, the Providence- Boston road, the Quincy-Hingham-Cohasset and Plymouth roads, the North Shore roads on the Parkways, as far as Ipswich, West Newbury, and Newburyport, and even beyond in Maine, the twenty odd miles from Kittery to Biddeford, the good stretches in Rhode Island from Narragansett Pier both by the shore and by the Tower Hill road to Wickford, and in Connecticut the Wethersfield road and many others show TARVIA construction and TARVIA main- tenance. Information about TARVIA roads may be obtained at any of the Barrett offices. The NEW YORK CHICAGO ST. LOUIS CLEVELAND DETROIT BIRMINGHAM NASHVILLE SALT LAKE CITY Company PHILADELPHIA BOSTON CINCINNATI PITTSBURGH KANSAS CITY MINNEAPOLIS SEATTLE PEORIA HIGHWAY CONSTRUCTION 827 SOCONY ASPHALT BINDERS and ROAD OILS MAKE GOOD ROADS CHARLES RIVER PARKWAY, CAMBRIDGE, MASS. SHOWING FINISHED ROAD, BINDER B, PENETRATION METHOD Use SOCONY ASPHALT BINDER A for surfacing parkways and for building sand and oil roads by the layer method. Use SOCONY ASPHALT BINDER B for building Macadam roads by the penetration method and for building sand and oil roads by the mixing method. Use SOCONY ASPHALT BINDER C for building Asphalt Macadam by the mixing method. Use SOCONY ASPHALT ROAD OILS for dust laying. SOCONY PAVING ASPHALT, for Sheet Asphalt, and SOCONY MIXING ASPHALT, for Bituminous Concrete, make smooth asphalt pavements. SOCONY ASPHALT BINDERS were used largely in making the famous Cape Cod "Sand and Oil" roads, see pp 543, 545. They have been since copied in other parts of the country. Also used in building many of the principal State Highways throughout the country. THE MAINE POST ROAD from Portland to Brunswick, a distance of 21.9 miles, was built of Bituminous Macadam, using Standard Macadam Asphalt. Binder. Being a Federal Aid Road, it was con- structed under the supervision of the United States Government and the State of Maine through the respective departments concerned. All who ride in automobiles appreciate the advantages of smooth, asphaltic surfaces which result from the use of our Binders made from Refined Mexican Asphalt. Those who ride in automobiles, and those who sit beside the road, all appreciate the advantages of dustless roads. Specifications and other particulars will be promptly furnished on request. STANDARD OIL COMPANY OF NEW YORK ROAD OIL DEPARTMENT 26 BROADWAY NEW YORK CITY 50 CONGRESS ST. BOSTON, MASS. SOCONY ASPHALT SPRAYER INDEX. Abbot Academy, 511 Abbott, Rev. Jacob, 621, 754 Abenaki, 741 Abington, 484 Abolitionists, 657 Abolition movement, 58, 266 Aborigines, 33 See Indians Abrasives, 362, 394 Acoaxet, 435 Acton, 499, 701 Adam Bros., the, 49 Adams, Abigail, 522 Brooks, 58, 518, 520 Charles; See Oliver Optic Charles Francis, 520 Hannah, 496 Herbert, 348, 352. 353 John, 44, 71, 85, 137, 367, 496, 520 John Qumcy, 521, 522 Samuel, 58, 85, 428, 458, 459, 473 Mass., 253 Agassiz, Alexander, 593 Louis, 363, 468, 469, 551, 566 Agawam, 127, 128, 655 "Age of Reason," 261 Agricultural College, Mass., 327, 394 Agriculture, Maine, 23, 52 Albany, 233, 381, 401 Post Road, 222 Alburg, 273, 274 Alcott, Bronson, 424 Louisa M., 425, 436 Alden, John, 155, 534, 545 Priscilla; See Mullens Aldrich, Senator, 60, 180 Thomas Bailey, 393, 667, 674 Allen, ' Camp Meeting John,' 749 Ethan, 55, 242, 243, 258, 261, 265, 268, 271, 273, 278, 287, 333, 463, 731, 732, 733 Ira, 270, 271, 273, 274, 733 Fighting Parson, 260, 384 Allen's Cave, Ethan, 265 Park, Ethan, 271 Allingtown Heights, 98 Allyn, Lewis B., 395 Alton Bay, 615 Amenia, 241 Ashland, 8, 617 Ames family, 575 Ashton, 444 Fisher, 199 Ashuelot river, 483 Mfg. Co., 321 Assabet river, 505 Oliver, 46, 282, 575 Assinippi, 483 Amesbury, 695 Astor, Vincent, 231 Amherst, 326 Athol, 25, 416, 448 College, 26, 327 Junction, 130 Gen. Jeffrey, 328 Attleboro, 195, 202, 431 Anburey, Thomas, 73 Auburn, Me., 757 Andover, Conn., 214 Augusta, Me., 758 Mass., 510 Austin, Moses, in Andre, Major, 77, 117, 227, Texas, in 228, 236 Avon, 558 Andros, Gov. Edmund, 43, Ayer, 421 113,158,403,458,542 Ayer's Sarsaparilla, 421 Androscoggm River, 758, 765 Bacheller, Irving, 75 "Angel of Hadley," 326 Bald Head Cliff, Me., 676 Angelus Player Piano, 109, Baldwin, Loammi, 603 818 Ballou, Rev. Adin, 495 Annisquam, 649 Hosea, 601 Ansonia, 280 Bancroft, George, 124, 129, Anthony, Susan B., 254 138, 314 Antinomians, 58 Bangor, 761 Antrim, 380 Bangs, John Kendrick, 676 Appalachian, 24, 27, 28 Bantam Lake, 276 Mountain Club, 54, 597, Baptists, 58, 454 623 Bar Harbor, 777 Appleton, Nathan, 385, Barlow, Joel, 117 465 Barnard, Henry, 22 Apponaug, R.I., 185 Barnet, 358 Aquidneck, 583, 586 Barnum & Bailey, 86 Archeozoic, 29 Institute, 87 Architecture, 46, 441 P. T., 87 Argonaut, 91 Barnstable, 546 Arlington, Mass., 430 Barre, Mass., 447 Center, 480 Vt., 730 Heights, 430 Bartlett, N.H., 139, 497, Vt., 261 746 Armonk, 205 Barton, Clara, 139, 497 Arnold Arboretum, 476 Bash Bish Falls, 245 Benedict, 95, 117, 166, Bass, Jethro (Ruel Dur- 167, 207,228, 275,372, kee), 54, 336, 352, 609 590, 690 Gov. R. P., 379 Matthew, 37, 252, 391, Bath, Me., 766 399 Baum, Colonel, 258 Aroostook, 788 Baxter, Sylvester, 6, 17, Arsenal, U.S., 125, 149 18, 472, 481 Artillery Co., Ancient & Baynes, Ernest Harold, Honorable, 447, 458 353 Art Museum, 75, 100, 124, Bay 138 Blue Hill, 776 Ascutney, Mt., 342 Buzzards, 563 Ascutneyville, 342 Casco, 687 Ashaway, R.I., 171 Frenchman's, 777 Ashburnham, 507, 596 Narragansett, 60, 583 Ashby, 377, 507 Penobscot, 771 Ash Creek, 86 Bay Path, 123 Ashfield, 398 Bay State, 45 (828) INDEX 82Q Bearcamp Mountain, 713 Bloody Brook, 317 Bronx Park, 67, 235 Bear Mountain, 243, 245 Blow-me-down Brook, 347, Parkway, the, 235 Rock, in 4Si Brooke, Lord, 158 Tree, 132 Mill, 350 Brookfield.Mass., 133, 134 Becket, 394, 397 Blue Hill, Me., 755, 776 Conn., 275 Bedford, Mass., 506 Blue Hills, 25, 478, 557, Brookline, 40 N.Y., 205 573 Brooks, Phillips, 457, 475 Beecher, Harriet; Blue Laws, 98, 116 Brown, Charles Farrar; See Stowe, H. B. Bolton, 505 See Ward, Artemus Henry Ward, 123, 153, Booth, Edwin, 84 Memorial, Annmary, 189 244, 247, 278, 389 Boothbay, 768 John, 129, 143, 183, 189 Lyman, 97, 153 Borglum, Gutzon, 77 of Providence, 188 Beers Plain, 336 Solon, 80 Carter, Library, 190 Belfast, Me., 772 Boscawen, 611 Joseph, 183, 187, 188 Belgrade Lakes, 759 Boston, 26, 31, 32, 35, 37, Moses, 183, 184, 191 Bellamy, Edward, 252 40, 43, 59, 64, 65, 67, Nicholas, 183, 190 Belle Haven, 74 70, 92, 97, 134, 145, Brownstone, 302 Bellingham. 218 148, 149, 451 Brown University, 182, Bellows Falls, 333 Basin, 27, 28 188, 190, 191 Belmonl. 480 Common, 41 Brunswick, Me., 74 Benjamin, Asher, 50 Harbor, 28 Vt., 359 Bennetts Bridge, 208 Massacre, 458 Bryce, James, 42, 60 Bennington, 55, 257 Metropolitan, 473 Bryant, William Cullen, Battle, 258, 260, 405 " Boston News Letter," 35, 247, 248, 407, 409 Berkeley, Bishop, 155, 594 454. 5 J 7 Buckland, 399 Berkshire land values, 391 Boston State House, 48, 49 Bucksport, 773 Mass., 253 Bourne, 543 Bulfinch, Charles, 49, 113, School, 245 Bowdoin College, 765 147,378, 467,670 Bjrkshires, the, 25, 244' James, 563 Bull, Ephraim, 426 B rlin, Conn., 109, no Bowles, Samuel, 123 Ole, 465, 579 Me., 717 Sherman, 123 Bunker Hill, 141 . Bernardston, 329 Boxboro, 499 Burbank, Rev. Aaron, 500 Bethel, Me., 751 Boxford, 39, 515 Luther, 420, 500 Bethlehem, 363 Bradford, 33 Burgoyne, G?n., 55, 73, Beverly, 643, 649 Mass., 513 233, 249, 260, 287, Farms, 644 Vt., 356 396, 462, 725 Biddeford, 679 "Hist, of Plymouth," Burlington, 269 Bigelow, Poultney, 62, 73 536 Burnham Sch., The, 313 Bixlow Papers, The, 39 Major John, 536 Burnside, 118 Billerica, 38, 429, 430, 506, Gov. William, 533, 539 General, 442 . .508 Bradley, Osgood, 139 Burr, Aaron, 85, 205, 250, Billington Sea, 432, 541 Bradstreet, Anne, 512 277, 447 Kirch, white, 32 Gov. Simon, 512 Mansion, 85 Birch, Harvey, 70, 207 'Branch,' 39 Peter. 85 Bird, Charles Sumner, 58, Brahmins, Bostonian, 36, Thaddeus, 85 107 627 Burritt, Elihu, 139, 211 Sanctuary, 86, 353 Branchville, Conn., 275 Burroughs, George, 677, 'Bird tracks,' 26, 28, 327, Brandon, 264 688, 692 4iS Branford, 103, no, 151 John, 231, 393 Birdseye, Deacon John, Brass, 208, 280 Bushnell's "American 89, 92 Brattleboro, 331, 706 Turtle," 155 " Bixby, Bije," 352 Bread Loaf Mountain, 267 Button making, 312, 400 Black Hall, 160 Bretton Woods, 622 Buzzards Bay, 435. 561 Rock Harbor, 86, 88 Brewster, 239, 549 Byfield, 656 Bhckstone Park, 190 Brewster, Deacon William, Byram, Lake, 205 R.I., 444 535 Byram River, 72, 73 River. 216 Bride Brook, 160 Timothy, 151 Bridge, Old Chain, 694 Cable, George, 313 William, 217, 453 Bridgeport, 86, 89 Calais, Me., 782 Blackwell, Lucy Stone, 133 Bridgewater, Mass., 559 "Caleb West," 165 Blaine, James J., 759 N.H., 720 Calhoun.John C., 104,278 Blake Stone Breaker, 44 Vt., 727 Cambrian, 29 Blanchard, Thomas, 139 Bridgton, 744 Cambridge, 37, 43, 62, 65, Blaxton, William, 444 Brimfield, 368 149, 462 Sec Blackstone Bristol, N.H., 720 Cambridge, Vt., 725, 736 " Blessing of the Bay," 456, R.I., 35, 49, 440 Camden, Me., 772 59 Britannia ware, 108, log Camel's Hump, 734 Block, Adriaen, 61, 93 Brockton, 558 Camp, Walter, 105 Island, 59 Bronx, the, 66 Campbell, William, I2a 8 3 o INDEX Canaan, 246, 286, 289 Cheshire, 253 Concord, Mass., 54, 148 Canaan, N.H., 739 Chester, Conn., 293 422-7, 499 Canaan Falls, 243, 246 Mass., 394 grape, 426 Canal, Cape Cod, 563 Vt., 598, 723 N.H., 608 Manchester, 608 Chicopee, 321 Concourse, ib Middlesex, 508 Chicopee Falls, 321 Concord Philosophers, 426 Canals, 291, 307, 3.20, 344, Chicago Exposition, 62 "Coniston," 336, 351, 722 613 Child, Rev. Frank S., 85 Connecticut, 33, 35, 42, Canonchet, 173, 176 Chilton, Mary, 458, 539 44., 45, 61-62, 64 Canonicus, 182 Choate, Joseph H., 250, Basin, 26 Canterbury, 35 251, 391 Blue Laws, 98 Canton, Mass., 202 Rufus, 361 Boundary, 73 Conn., 287 School for Boys, 107 College for Women, 164 Cape Ann, 643, 647 Chocolate, 484, 517 color markings, 65 Cod, 27, 28,32,33,61 Chocorua, 713 Path, Old, 43, 127, 148 Cod Bay, 33 Christian Endeavor So- River and valley, 25, 26, Neddick, 678 ciety, 685 27, 29, 31, 43, 65, 290, Porpoise, 678 Church, Old Ship, 48, 525 329 Capen School, The, 313 Churchill, Winston, 336, River navigation, 290, Carboniferous, 29 348, 351, 609, 705, 291 Carlisle, 32, 38, 506 722 Trail, 43 pines, 506 Clambakes, 181 "Constitution," the frig- Carman, Bliss, 77 Clapboards, ^7, 48 ate, 200, 280, 637 Carnegie, Andrew, 124 Claremont, 346, 352, 722 Constitution Hill, 255, 385 Foundation, 56 Clark University, 138 ' Constitution House,' Ver- Casco Bay, 686 Clay, Henry, 255 mont, 343 Castine, 774 Clemens, S. L. Continental troops, 55 Castleton, Vt., 728 See Twain, Mark Converse, Edmund C., 74 Cataumet, 565 Clermont, 232 Converse, Frederick Shep- Cavendish, 340 "Clermont," The, 232, 272 herd, 341 Catholics, 451 Cleveland, President, 293, Conway, 714 Cedar, red, 32 372,393, 562, 567, 714 Cooke, Rose Terry, 283 Cenozoic, 29 Clifton, 633 Cooper, James Fenimore, Center Harbor, 616 Clinton, Conn., 154, 155 71, 72, 104, 236, 404 Centerville, 569 Dam, 376 Cornish, 124, 347 Central Falls, R.I., 443 Mass., 504 Cornish Church, 8ga Chamber of Commerce, 80, Clock industry, 61, 105, Cornwall, Conn., 289 106, 136 119, 281, 283 Copley, 85 Champlain, 33, 52, 273, Cluett-Peabody Co., 81 John Singleton, 456 670, 777 Lake, 272 Clock-making, 105 Coal, 584 Square, 50, 475 Copper mines, 298 valley, 24 Cobalt, 301 Corbin Game Preserve, 722 Channing, William Ellery, Cobbett, William, 70 Austin, 336, 353 437, 59 Cohasset Mass.. 527 Park, 336, 353, 354 Chapin, Deacon Samuel, Colchester, Vt., 273 Corlear, Anthony van, 223 124 Colebrook, 365, 718 Cornwall, 289 Chapman Valve Mfg. Co., Colonial architecture, 46, Cos Cob, 75, 76 130 47 Cotton, 194, 372, 374, 580, Chappaqua, 237 Charlemont, 413 bridle paths, 43 604, 607, 679, 680, 700 Cotuit, 568 Charles I, 92 Charles II, 72, 114, 454 Charles Island, 92, 93 Charles River, 43, 148, 474 Coaches, 44 Cochituate, Lake, 490 College of New Rochelle,68 for Women, Connecticut, T /; . Craddock, Matthew, 601 ''Cradle of Liberty," 35 Craigville, 569 Cram, Ralph Adams, 50, Charlestown, Mass., 453, 104 146 509 Mass. Agr., 327, 394 Cranberry, the, 32, 537, N H t^8 Colleges, 452 1^1 .1.1., J^O R.I., 72 See Amherst, Bow- j"y Crane, .Ichabod, 227 Charlotte, Vt., 268 Churlton, 368 doin, Dartmouth, Harvard, Yale, etc. W. Murray, 59, 397 Crawford Glen, 746 Charter Oak, 113, 114 Collier, Price, 524 Notch, 747 Chatham, Mass., 571 Chazy, N.Y., 274 Colt Park, 115 Colonel Samuel, 113, Cretaceous peneplain, 29, 291 Chelmsford, 38, 701 117 Cromwell, 295 Chelsea, 453, 628 Colt Patent Firearms Co., Oliver, 02, 158 Cheney, Timothy, 213 117, 118 Croton Aqueduct, 228, 236 Cheney Silks, 213 "Common Sense," 69 Reservoir, 238 Chf;p chet. 216 Comstock, Dr. John, 161 Croton-on-Hudson, 228 Chjrryfield, 780 Conanicut, 177 Crown Point, 55, 301, 308 INDEX 831 Crown Point Road, The Dighton, Mass., 578 East Providence, 439 Old, 265, 340 Dimock, Ira, i8a, 115 East Rock, 27, 93 Croydon, 54, 722 Dinosaur, 28, 213 East Thetford, 118 Cumminston, 399 Disbrow House, 70 East Walpole, 197 Curtis, G. W., 309, 425 Mercy, 84 East Wallingford, 599 Cushman, Charlotte, 390 Dixville Notch, 718 East Windsor, 119 Cutler, Miss Mary E., 520 Dixwell, John, 95, 98 Eaton, Theophilus, 97 Dobb's Ferry, 225 Eddy, Mary Baker, 466, Dairying, 23, 56 Dorchester, Mass., 41, 306, 632 Dalhn, Cyrus, 430 574 Edgewood Park, 74 Dalton, 397 Heights, 141 Edict of Nantes, 70 Daly, Dr. R. C., 342 Dorr. Thomas W., 187, 374 Edwards, Jonathan, 104, Damariscotta, 769 Dorr's Rebellion, 187, 195, 119, 129, 250, 251, Damon, Isaac, 49, 123 374 252, 277, 313, 391 Dana, Richard H., 645 Dorset, 449 Eells, Major Samuel, 91 -Danbury, Conn., 82, 206, Douglas. Stephen A., 264 Eggemoggin Reach, 775 275 Dover, Me., 786 Elephant Monument, 239 Danby, 262 Mass., 498 Eliot, Charles W., 22, 469, Danielson, 373 N.H., 709 473, 777 Gen. James, 373 Plains, 240 Rev. Jared, 155 Danvers, 21, 40, 514, 690 Dressier, Marie, 343 John, 134, 144, 422, 463, Danville, 732 Drumlins, 28 488, 494, 608 Darien, 79 Dublin, 704 Eliot, Me., 709 Dark Day, the, 78 Duck farms, 196 Elizabeth Islands, 27 Dartmouth, Mass., 435 Dudley, Mrs. Charles Tar- Ellsworth, 776 Dartmouth College, 62, 360 bell, 75 Mansion, 305 "Dartmouth College Thomas, 462, 471, 506, Oliver, 305 Party," the, 343 512 Elm, 31 Davenport, Colonel Abra- Dummer Academy, 657 Berkshire, 384 ham, 79 house, 48 Knoll, 384 Rev. John, 97, 98 Wm., 103, 657 Lancaster, 501 Thomas, 102 Dunderberg, 229 Wethersfield, 296 Neck, 68 Dunder, Rock, 270 Elms, The, 91 Davis, Prof. W. M., 107, Dunmore, Lake, 265 Elmsford, 236 378 Durfee Hill, 25 "Elsie Venner," 315, 387, Daye, Stephen, 333, 463 Durham, Conn., in 682 Dean, Silas, -296 Durkee, Ruel, 336, 352, Ely Mansion, 120 Debonair Beach, 93 609 School, 75 Decatur, Commodore, 370 Dustin, Hannah, 698 Deacon Nathaniel, Jr., Dcdham, 198, 319 Dutch in N.E., The, 61, 1 20 Pottery, 200 93, 116, 297,306 Emerson, Ralph Waldo, Deerfield, 41, 317 Duxbury, 534 37, 319, 410, 424, 477, river, 706 Dwight, Timothy, 32, 40, 609 Deerfield valley, 25, 412, 70, 85, 104, no, IT?, Rev. William, 424 414 140, 157, 170, 194, Endicott, Gov. John, 641, DeLancey. Judge, 71 313, 365, 367, 369, 690, 691 Deland, Margaret. 678 423, 463, 553. 578, pear tree, 690 de la Rochefoucauld, Due, 597, 604, 702 Enfield, 61, 120, 291, 307 143 homestead, the, 322 Epitaphs, 107, 126, 164, De Monts, 52, 680, 772 330, 333, 339, 54 Denmark, 744 Eagle Bridge, 403 Erie Canal, 403 Dennis, 548 Earthquakes, 300 Errol, 718 Derby, Conn., 280 East Bridgeport, 88 Erving, Mass., 416 De Rouville, Sir Hertel, East Chester, 66 Eskers, 28 Sob East Clarendon, 599 Essex, Conn., 292 Dess?,.r, Louis Paul, 32C Eastern Point, 168 Junction, 735 De Tocqueville, 42 East Greenwich, R.I., 179 Mass., 649 Devereux, 637 East Haddam, Conn., 300 Evans, Mrs. Wm. A., 74 Devonian, 29 Eastham, 551 Evarts, William Maxwell, (b \Y;:rvilIrj, Hris.sot, 140, East Hebron, 719 343, 348 295, 587 Easthampton, 312 Prescott, 343 Dewey, Admiral George, East Hampton, 3or Sherman, 343 306. 726. 733 East Hartford, 118 Everett, 625 Rev. Orville, 247 East Haven, no, 151 Edward, 317, 49, 4^5 Dexter, Me., 786 East Jaffrey, 377 Mt., 25 Hannah, 498 East Lee, 393 Exeter, 702 Samuel, 199 East Lyme, 162 Exposition, Agricultural Lord Timothy, 661 East Norwalk, 81 and Industrial, 309 Dickens, Ch-.rlcs, 605 Eastport, Me., 781 Maine State, 684 INDEX Fabyans, 621, 747 Fort McClary, 673 Glass-making, 213, 253, Fairbanks House, 200 McKinley, 687 255. 3Qi Fairfield, Conn., 81, 83-87, Massachusetts, 408, 409 Glastonbury, 56, 302 89 Rachel, 170 Glenbrook, 78 Me., 760 Schuyler, 67 Gloucester, 646 Fairhaven, 437 Shirley, 413 Glover, Col. John, 67 Fairhope Summer School, Ticonderoga, 452 Goffe, William, 92, 93, 98, 75 Trumbull, 164, 166 109, 153, 325, 47i Fairlee, 358 Trumbull Beach, 91 & Whalley, 153,325,471 Fall River, Mass., 37, 59, Washington, 223 "Gold Coast," 470, 627 580 Williams, 687 Golf Links Falls, Bash Bish, 245 Wright, 163 Ardsley Country Club, Canaan, 243, 246 Fowler, William, 91 226 Fifteen Mile, 358 Fowler's Mill, 91 Arundel (Kennebunk- Housatonic, 243, 246 Foxboro, 484 port), 678 Livermore, 753 Foy, Eddie, 68 Cumaquid, 547 Liana, 265 Framingham, 38, 490 Ekwanok Country Club , Mclndoes, 358 Franconia, 621 261 Sky, 256 Notch, 619 Gedney Farm Country Waconah, 397 Range, 619 Club, 204 Wawbeek, 256 Frankland, Sir Harry, 461, Great Barrington, 248 Falmouth, Mass., 565 636 Knollwood, 204 Foreside, 764 Franklin, Benjamin, 36, 65, Lenox, 389 Faneuil, Andrew, 70 85, 90, 155, 160, 162, Mt. Anthony, 259 Benjamin, 70 219, 458, 459, 611 Norfolk, 286 Hall, 48, 70, 459 James, 459 Pawling, 240 Peter, 35, 7, 459 Me., 779 Pittsfield Country Club, Farmington, Conn., 211 Mass., 196, 218 387 Me., 754 N.H., 611 Rutland (Vt.) Country Federal Express wreck, 86 Freeport, 764 Club, 263 Fenwick, 157 French, Daniel Chester, Shenecosset, 168 Ferries, 791 137, 249, 348, 423, Springfield Country Field, Cyrus W., 250, 406 456, 468, 476 Club, 309 Rev. David Dudley, 154, 'French Towne,' 70 Stockbridge, 249 250, 293 Frohman, Charles, 265 Waubanakee (Burling- Eugene, 449 Frohmans, the, 78 ton, Vt.), 269 Henry M., 251 Fryeburg, Me., 713, 745 Weatogue Country Jonathan E., 250 Fulton, Robert, 232, 356, Club, 89 Roswell, 327 690 Wee Barn Country Club, Fifteen Mile Falls, 358 "Fundamental Orders, 79 Fisher's Island, 59, 163, The," 116 Wyantenuck Country 170 Fur trade, 120, 128 Club, 248 Fishkill Village, 229 York Country Club, 674 Fiske, John, 117, 294, 461 Gage, General, 148, 458 Goodyear, Charles, 97, 105 Fitch, John, up, 213 Colonel Thomas, 81 Fitchburg, 37, 419 Fitzwilliam, 597 Gales Ferry, 370 Gallaudet, Dr., 115 Gallows Hill, 117, 638 Gardiner, 783 patents, 105 rubber industry, 105 Gookin, Daniel, 4*22, 463 Gorges, Fernando, 453, 612, Flagstaff, 756 Gardner, 418 675, 680 Flanders Village, 162 Gorham, 717 Floating Bridge, Lynn, 631 Florence, 400 Garfieid, James A., 405, 408 Tide Mill, 79 Goshen, 400 Florida, 411 "Flower of Essex," the, Flume^The, N.H., 619 Fog Plain, 162 Foote, Arthur, 199 Garrison, W. L., 258, 659 Gaspee, 183, 192 Gay Head, 23, 33 Gaylordsville, 288 General Electric Co., 386, Gosnold, Bartholomew, 33 , 73, 436, 678 Gough, John B., 141 Graf ton, 493 Grafton Center, N.H., 739 Graham, Dr. Sylvester, Forbes, Ca'meron, 198 Forestry, 447, 448, 596, 629, 632 Georgian architecture, 46, 308 bread, 308 623 48, 49 Grand Isle, 273 Fort Cassin, 268 Georgetown, 516 Granite, 171, 219, 342, Crabo, 381 Gerry, Elbridge, 466, 635 520, 648, 730 Dummer, 332, 409 Gibson, Hamilton, 408 State, 54 Ethan Allen, 271 Gilbert, Cass, 275 Grant, Gen. U. S., 119, 306 Griswold, 166, 167 Glacial period, 26, 27, 29, Mrs. U. S., 262 Hill, Groton, Conn., 169 107 ancestors, 120 Lee, 223 Gladden, Rev. Dr. Wash- Grasshopper Plains, 658 Levett, 687 ington, 129 Gray, Me., 757 INDEX 833 Great Barrington, 247 Hamlin, Hannibal, 750, Highway Commission, Great Boar's Head, 664 761, 763 first, 43, 45 Great Swamp Fight, 173, Hampden, John, 306 Highways; 178 R.R., 130 See roads Greater Vermont Associa- Hampshire Co., 322 Hillhouse, James, 97 tion, 57, 334 Hampton, N.H., 664 Hillsboro, 380 Greeley, Horace, 237, 238, Falls, 664 Hillside School for Girls, 80 319, 4So Hancock, N.H., 380 Hingham, 48, 524 Green, Albert C., 142 John, 58, 428, 429, 458, Hinsdale, 336 Darius, 480 473,476,478, 522 Hitchcock, Prof. Edward, Greenbush, 5.31 Hanging Hills, 26, 108, 109 196, 318, 327, 739 Greenfield, 319, 415 Hanover, Me., 740 Hoar, Senator George Fris- Green, Gretna, 330, 333 Mass., 483 bie, 137, 423 Hetty, 333 N.H., 360 Hockanum, 323 Mountain Boys, 55, 62, Harbor Woods, 91 Holden, 446, 258, 265, 330, 724 Hardware industry, 77, 106 Chapel, 467 Mountain Club, 57, 260, Harlakenden House, 351 Holderness, 617 334 Robert, 429 Hole, 38 Mountain Trail, 265, Harlem River, 66 Holland, Dr. J. G., 123, 599, 724, 727 Harpswell, 764 129, 3i5, 323 Mountains, 27, 28 Harrington, 780 Hollis Hall, 467 Greene, General Francis, Harris. Win. T., 22 Dr. Ira N., 139 179 Harrison, 744 Thomas, 220, 467 General Nathanael, 179, Peter, 48, 458, 463, 588 Holliston, 220 186, 509 Hartford, 34, 42, 103, up, Holmes, Oliver Wendell, Police Commissioner, in, 128, 299 146, 247, 315, 384, 179 Hartland, 344 386, 387, 465, 645, Governor Silas, 179 Harvard forest, 447 658, 682, 696, 777 Greenwich, 65, 66, 74, 76 John, 461, 472 Holmesdale, 387 Academy, 75 University, 37, 61, 103, Holt, Dr. Henry, 271 'Old Towne,' 75 149, 262, 426, 446, 461. Holv Ghost and Us Soc., Vt., 725 466, 476, 491, 496, "36,766 Greylock, 25, 244, 253, 255, 568, 637, 700 Holyoke, 310 405, 409, 410 -Yale boat race, 163 Elizur, 310, 314 Griscom, Hon. Lloyd C., 85 Harvey, Colonel, 54 Mary Pynchon, 126 Griswold, Matthew, 160 Harwich, 570 Hooker, Rev.Thomas, 116, Miss Florence, 162 Hassam, Childe, 159 462 Groton, Conn., 165, 167 Hastings, 72, 225 Hoosac Mountain, 43, 254, Mass., 28, 507 Hatfield, 315 403, 410, 411 School, 507 Hathorne, Judge William, Tunnel, 410, 411 Groveland, 516 692 Hoosick River, 401, 403, Guildhall, 359 Hatmaking, 206, 696, 699 409 Guilford, 103, 152-153,33 Havemeyer estate, 67 Falls, 404 Gulf, 39 Haverhill, Mass., 697 Hope Valley, R.I. , 171 Ottaquechee, 727 N.H., 362 Hopcdale, 495 Williamstown, 729 Haversham, 172 Hopkins Academy, 325 Gut, 38 Hawthorne, Nathaniel, Prof. Albert, 256, 409 246, 252, 384, 390. Edward, 103, 325 Haddam, 293 391, 392, 406, 410, Governor, 35 .Hadley, 103, 128 412, 414, 424, 425, Grammar School, 103 Falls, 310 426, 620, 632, 639, Mark, 252, 407, 408, 409 Path, 43 - 675, 690, 693, 743, Stephen, 209 Hagedorn, Hermann, 85, 70S Hopkinton, 43, 380 379 Hay, John, 721 Hopper, the, 256 Hale, Edward Everett, Haystack Monument, 407 Horsford, Eben N., 148, 139, 174, 270, 317, Mountain, 706 149 367, 440, 447, 708, Hayward, Mrs. (' Beatrice Hosmer, Harriet G., 149 7U Herford'), 147 Hotchkiss School, the, 242 Nathan, 6, 80, 113, 164, Hayward's Quarry, 27, 484 Houlton, 788 298 Henniker, 380 Housatonic, 29, 249 "Half Moon," the, 232 'Herford, Beatrice,' 147 river, 89, 275, 276, 279, Hall, Dr. Lyman, 108 See Mrs. Hayward 386 Dr. G.Stanley, 138,398, Herreshoffs, the, 442 valley, 25, 208, 244, 288 399, 409 Hessians, 83, 119, 260 House of Sixty Closets, Halleck, Fitz-Greene, 152 Heywood, Levi, 418 The, 85 Halloween Park, 97 Higganum, 204 Howe, Lord, 67, 454 Hallowell, Me., 784 Higginson, Thomas Went- Howe, David. 145 Hamilton, Alexander, 226 worth, 590, 705 Elias, 89, 135 Hamilton, Mass., 652 Highland Light, 553 Mrs. Jemima, 84a 34 INDEX Howe, John. 148 Irving, Washington, 79, Kenilworth, Eng., 154 Tyler, 134 226, 227, 252, 297, Kennebec River, 767 William, 135 403 Kennebunk, 679 Howells, William Dean, Irvington, 226 Kennebunkport, 678 337, 492, 674, 734 Iselin estates, 68 Kensico Hills, 204 Hudson, 232, 505 Island Reservoir, 204 Hendrik, 232, 382 Aquidneck, 583, 585 Kent, 289 Henry N., 266 Block, 59 Kidd, Captain, 92, 155, Park, 69 Conanicut, 177 229, 335, 458 River, 28, 33, 222 Fishers, 163 Kilburn's house, 338 Valley, 24 Marthas Vineyard, 27, Peak, 338 Huguenots, 69, 70, 71, 81, 28, 566 Killingly, Conn., 374 90, 164 Mount Desert, 776 Killington Peak, 263 Hull, Isaac, 156 Nantucket, 566 Killingworth, Conn., 103 John, 174 Orrs, 764 The Birds of, 154 Joseph, 156 Plum, 657 Kinderhook, 233 Humphreys, General Rhode, 59 Kineo, 787 David, 280 Thachers, 648 King Philip; Hunt, Richard M., 331 Isle la Motte, 273 See Philip, King William Morris, 331, 646 Isles of Shoals, 666 King's Highway, 43, 88, Huntington, 394 Collis P., 67 Jackman, 785 345 King, Starr, 365, 624, 717, Hurd, Andrew, 90 Jackson, 716 752 Ebenezer, 90 Helen Hunt, 327 Kingston, 33, 36 Hurlbut, B. S., 269 Jamaica Plain, Mass., 476 R.I., 174 Hutchinson, Anne, 67 Vt., 449 Kipling, R., 331, 332, 646 Governor, 518 }ames, G. P. R., 250 Kittery, 671 Hyannis, Mass., 569 arves collection, 100 Point, 51 Hyde Park, Mass., 573 Jarvis House, 96 Knickerbocker, Cornelius, N.Y., 231 Jay, John, 71, 238 242 Mansion, 71 family, 382 Ice Glen, the, 251 Sheet, the, 27 Indian College, 467, 473 Jefferson, 752 Joe, 544, 562, 567, 709 Thomas, 42, 188 Jesup, Ebenezer, 82 mansion, 403 Press, the, 68 "Knickerbocker's History of New York," 297 grant, 91 Morris K., 82, 389 Knight, Madame Sarah, Harbor, 74 01 -Sherwood Memorial Li- 158, 164 rchard, 130 brary, 82 Knox, General, 462, 463 Rocks, 78 Trails, 43,65, 73,92, 122 Indians, 33, 34, 62, 67, 72, 73, 81, 88, 92,98, 128, Jewelry, 195, 202 Jewett, Sarah Orne, 645 Johnson, Clifton, 313, 323 f~* ,,_:i __u Kosciusko, 450 Labden, Cornelius, 76 129, 132, 134, 142, 146, 161, 172, 180, l^ynl, 970 Mrs., the captive, 339 Mrs. J. F., 75 Laddin's Rock Park. 76 La Farge, 125, 457, 699 250, 251, 252, 289, Mary, 73a Lafayette, 72, 85, 119, 133, 302, 317, 330, 335, Dr. Samuel, 30, 155 145, 162, 188, 195, 338, 339, 361, 366, Vt., 736 226, 240, 271, 342, 370, 372, 373, 374, Jones. Colonel Elisha, 148 384, 584, 641, 660 385, 447, 453, 480, Inigo, 48 696 488, 494, 511, 512, 524, 568, 577, 626, 67.S, 677, 679, 698, John Paul, 670, 710 "Johnny Cake Papers," 178 Lake Bomoseen, 728 Champlain, 272 Chaubunagungamaug, 788 Industrial Conditions, Springfield, 127; Dan- Joppa Flats, 658 Jordan Creek, 161 'Josh Billings,' 255 374 China, Me., 760 Contoocook, N.H., 610 bury, 207 Josselyn, 454 Dunmore, 265 Ingalls, Senator, 693 Ingersoll watches, 209 Judge's Cave, 92, 93 Jurassic, 28, 29 Echo (Conway), 715 Echo (Franconia), 620 Inness, Geo., 715 Long, 744 "Innocents Abroad," 115 Kames, 24, 174 Makheenac, 251 Insurance comp-inies, 118 Karlstein, 200 Massabesic, 608, 703 International Silver Co., Katahdin, 25 Memphremagog, 737 109, 210 Katonah, 238 Moosehead, 786 Intervale, 715 Kearsarge, Mt., 715 Morey, 356 Ipswich, 28, 653 Keene, N.H., 597 Newfound. 719 petitioners, 134 Keller, Helen, 196 Onota, 385 Iron, 155, 218, 239, 240, Kellogg, Elijah, 687 Ossipce, 713 241, 242, 243, 244, 260, Kemble, Fanny, 84, 389, Pontoosuc, 385 631 39, 39i Profile, 620 INDEX 835 Lake Quinsigamond, 140 Littleton, 363 Maine, 28, 32, 45, 51 Sabbath Day, 749 Common, 422 winters, 52 Saint Catherine, 450 "Little Women," 425 Mall, the, 66 Sebago, 42 Livermore Falls, 753 Malleus Bay, 272, 273 Silver, 265 Livingston, 232 Mamaroneck, 71 Simon, 91 Manor, 225, 243 Manchester Center, 213 Spofford, 337 Liana Falls, 265 N.H., 607 Squam, 616 Lloyds Neck, 77, 79 -by-the-Sea, 645 Sunapee, 721 Lodge, Henry Cabot, 58, Vt., 262 Willoughby, 738 630 Mann, Horace, 140, 200, Winnepesaukee, 613, 712 Londonderry, 723 219 Lakes, Belgrade, 759 Longfellow, H. W., 126, Manomet, 542 Lake Torpedo Boat Co., 145, 250, 252, 384, hill, 28 87, 89 465, 581, 590, 630, Mansfield, 484 Lakeville, 242 634, 646, 683, 684, Manursing Island, 72 Lamentation Mountain, 685, 686, 687, 743, Map colors, 64 26, 108 745, 765 M iple sugar, 37, 56, 394 La Motte, Sieur de, 273 Long Island, 27, 66 Maplewood, 364 Lancaster, Mass., 31, 500, Longmeadow, 120, 121, Marble, 240, 247, 262, 263, 54 128, 319 264, 392 N.H., 364 Long, William, 77 Marblehead, 633 Lanesboro, 254 Lonsdale, 444 Marion, 438 Larchmont, 70 Loomis Institute, 304 Market House, 48 Manor, 71 Lovewell, Captain, 713, Marks, William, 76 Yacht Club, 68 745 Mark Twain; Larcom, Lucy, 605, 650, Lowell, 59, 604 See Twain 691, 696 A. Lawrence, 568 M.irlboro, Mass., 142, 143, "Last of the Mohicans, Francis C., 480, 605 144, MS The," 404 Guy, 50 N.H., 597 Laurel Hill, 250 James Russell, 189, 199, Vt., 706 Lake, 389 465 Marlin Firearms Corpora- "Laus Deo," 695, 696 Ludlow, 98 tion, 105 Lava, 107, 223, 526 Roger, 8 1 Marshfield, 58, 531 sheets, 26, 93 Luneburg, Duke of, 421 Marthas Vineyard, 27, 28, Lawrence, 59, 699 Lunenburg, 359, 421 566 Abbott, 700 Lyell, Sir Charles, 264 Martineau, Harriet, 620, Laysville, 162 Lyme, 299 7i5 "Leather-stocking Tales," Lyndon Center, 738 Marvel, Ik; 404 Lyndonville, 738 See Mitchell, D. G. Lebanon, Conn., 366 Lynn, 40, 41, 42, 149, 630 Marvin, John J., 2d, 82 N.H., 739 Lynnfield, 40, 625 Major Ozias, 82 Springs, 383 Lynn Woods, 42, 474, 631 Captain Reynold, 161 Lee, 392 Lyon, Mary, 22, 322, 399 "Mary had a Little Le Gallienne, Richard, 79 Lamb," 721 Leicester, 135 Mabie, Hamilton W., 227, M iscoma valley, 739 Academy, 136 393 Mashpee, 33, 568 Lemington, 360 MacAdam, John, 71 Mason, Captain John, 83, Lenox, 388 Macadam roads, 44 161, 169, 371, 612, Leominster, 376 Macdonough, Commodore, 671. 675 Lewiston, 757 268, 295 Lowell, 497 Lexington, Mass., 41, 141, MacDowell, E., 379 Dr. William, 497 427-430 Memorial As., 379 Massachusetts, 26, 27, 28, 'Lexington of the Sea,' 780 Machias, 780 29, 32, 45, Si, 55. 57, Leyden Gorge, 319 MacKaye, Percy, 348, 349, 58, 59, 64, 65, 116 Lincoln, Abraham, 117, 527 351, 352 Bay Colony, 67 Mrs. Abraham, 262 Macy, Mr. and Mrs. John, color markings, 65 family, 524, 527 196 culture, 57 Frederic W.. 74 McCall, Samuel W., 365, ' " Emancipation of, Joseph, 816 Mordecai, 527 604 Mclndoes Falls, 358 58 Inst. Tech., 504 Robert T., 261 Mclntire, Samuel, 49, 638 Revolutionary move- Lind, Jenny, 87, 313, 314, McKim, Charles, 250, 467 ments, 58 39 Mead & White, 185, 330, Massasoit, 439, 542 Lisbon Falls, Me., 783 349, 456 Mastodon, 29, 142 Litchfield, Conn., 276 McKinley, President, 121 Mattabesett Indians, in Litchfield Co. Choral Madison, Conn., 153, 154 Mather, Cotton, 169, 610, Union, 286 President, 194, 386 642 Little Boar's Head, 665 Magnolia, 645 Increase, 461 Compton, 583 Maidstone, 359 Mattapan, 518, 572 8 3 6 INDEX Mattapoisett, 437 Minot's Light, 526 Mt. Philo, 268 Mattawamkeag, 788 Mitchell, Donald G., 'Ik Pisgah, 970 Matunuck, R.I., 173 Marvel,' 94, 372 Riga, 243, 245 "Mayflower," 32, 52, 458, Mitchelson numismatic Tom, 26, 27, 125, 290 536, S39, 54, S4i, collection, 114 Wachusett, 25, 503 556 Mohammedan influence, 50 Washington, Ft. ,622, 716 Mayhew, Stella, 68 Mohawks, 302, 406, 411 Wollaston, 522 Maxim, Sir Hiram, 117, Mohawk Trail, 25, 29, 43, Muddy River, 40, 475 420 401, 406, 410, 411 Muldoon's Hygienic Insti- Mead, Larkin G., 331, 733 Ford, 411 tute, 204 Medfield, 496 valley, 24 Mullens, Priscilla, 546 Medford, 149, 482, 600 Mohicans, 33, 406 Mundy, Richard, 48 Meeting houses, earliest, 48 Monhegan Island, Me., 52 Munitions, war, 61, 87, Megansett, 564 "Monitor," 402, 411 i5, 117, 343, 722 Mellen, Charles S., 251 Monadnock, Mt., 25 Munsey, Frank, 165 Judge, 147 Monomoy, 571 Munson, John, 44 Melrose, 482 Monroe, President, 195 Music, 23, 287, 379, 452 Melville, Hermann, 252, Montague, 328 Myopia Hunt Club, 602, 387 Montgomery, General, 274 652 Village, 616 Fort, N.Y., 274 Mystic, Conn., 83, 169 Memphremagog; Montowse, 106 Lakes, 508, 602 See Lake Montpelier, 732 River, Conn., 169 Mendon, 134, 494 Montreal, Canada, 274 Mercer, 740 Monument Beach, 564 Nahint, 58, 629, 630 Meredith, 616 Mountain, 248, 249, 251 Nantucket, 27, 28, 41 Meriden, Conn., 26, 108 Moodus, Conn., 300 Napitree Beach, R.I., 172 N.H., 353 river, 730 Naples, 744 Merriam, Charles, 93, 133 Moody, Dwight L., 329. Narmgansett Bay, 27. 28, George, 93, 133 33 S 3i, 33, 59, 60, 583 Merrick Park, 2ia Mooseheid Lak?, 786 Pier, 176 Merrimack River, 613, 700 "Mosses from an Old Narragansi;tts, 173 valley, 26 Manse," 424 Nashaway Indians, 500 Merrymount, 522 Moosup, 171 Nashua, 606 Mesozoic, 28, 29 Moraine, 27, 174 River, 419 Methodist Church, 72 Morey, Captain, 356 Valley, 500 Methuen, 699 Morgan Art Gallery, 1 13 Nass'iu, 382 Miantonomoh, 182 horse, the, 56, 264, 267, Natick, 489 Mianus River, 75, 76 729 Naugatuck, 279-281 Middleboro, 432, 560 Morgan, J. Pierpont, 113, Valley, 25 Middlebury, 266 593 Nausites, 33 College, 266 Sergeant Miles, 122 ! Navy, American, 601, 183, Falls, 64a Morrisania, 66 633 Middlesex Fells, 149, 482 Morse, Jedediah, 62, 461, Navy," "Father of the Middle States, 6 407 American, 483 Middleton, 693 S. F. B., 461 Navy Yard, Portsmouth, Middletown, 26, in, 290, Morton, Thomas, 34, 522 671 294 Mother Ann Lee, 383, 499 Nearing, Scott, 22, 473 Milford, Conn., 90, 91, 94, Brook, 200 Needham, 498 103, 276 Motley, John Lothrop, Negroes, 34, 35 Mass., 219, 494 200, 684 Neponset River, 573 N.H., 704 Moultonboro, 713 Neutral Ground, The, 71, Mill, the Old Town, New Mt. Agamenticus, 478 238 London, 163 Anthony, 257 New Bedford, 435 Millbank, 74 Ascutney, 342 New Britain, 210 Millbrook, 231 Auburn, 497 Newbury, Mass., 6s6 Miller Park, 379, 704 Carmel, 26, 107 Vt.,357 Millers Falls, 416 Desert, 52, 776 Newburyport, 40, 658 Millers River, 25, 415, 416 Everett, 25, 245, 247 New C'anaan, 77, 78 Millis, 496 Hcrmon School, 329 New Castle, N.H., 666 Mill Plain, Conn., 206 Holyoke, 27, 125, 290, Newcistle, Me., 769 Milton, 477, 517, 712 327 New Connecticut, 55 Minerals, 303 Holyoke Seminary, 322 New England, 28, 29 Mines, coal, 584 Hope Bay, 579 town-meeting, 42 cobalt, 301 Kearsarpre, 15 village, 40 copper, 298 Kineo, 787 winters, 47 iron, 239 Kisco, 238 New Englander, the, 36 lead, 301 Mansfield, 734 Newfane, 449 Tilly Foster, 239 Monadnock, 25, 378, New Hampshire, 32, 45, Mink Brook, 88 b 597. 705 53, 55, 04 INDEX 837 New Hampshire ' Forest Norton Company, The, 137 Otter Creek, 264 Reserve,' 54 Norumbega, 149 Oxford, Mass., 375 farmers, 55 Tower, 148 Oyster Bay, 72, 86 summer resort business, Norwalk, 80, 81, 82 Oyster industry, 62, 89, QI 55 Iron Works Company, 8 1 New Hartford, 287 Norway, 750 Packard, Rev. Asa, 143, New Haven, 26, 31, 37, 44, Norwich, Conn., 21, 370 144 65,66,92,94-106, 153 Vt., 355 Paine, Thomas, 69, 70, 261, New Lebanon, 382 Norwood, 197 577 New London, Conn., 165 Notch house, 'Tom,' 69, 70 N.H., 720 Dixville, 718, 751 Paleozoic, 28, 29 Turnpike Co., 44 Franconia, 619, 620 Palisades, The, 223 New Milford, 276, 288 Nott, John, 248, 723 Palladio, 48, 49 Newport, Me., 760 Nouveaux-riches, 49 Palmer, A. M., 78, 131, 132 N.H.,352, 721 Noyes, Rev. Moses, 162 Alice Freeman, 487, 515 R.I., 59, 60, 136, 585 State House, 48 Judge Walter, 162 House, William, 162 George Herbert, 39, 468, 515 Vt., 737 Nurse, Rebecca, 691 Mass., 131 New Preston, 276 Nutting, Wallace, 296,491, Paper-making, 197, 311, New Republic, The, 8gb 660, 669, 698 395ff, 397, 5>8, 7i, New Rochelle, 65, 66, 67, 740 68, 69, 71 Oak, Avery, 200 Paris, 751 Yacht Club, 68 Beaman, 502 Parker, Captain John, 427, Newton Lower Falls, 479, Oakland Beach, 72 428 485 Oaks, 31, 502 Theodore, 429, 705 Newtown, 208 Waverley, 31 Parkman, Francis, 476, 597 New York, 55, 66, 274 Oaksmere, 71 Parley,' 'Peter, 275 Athletic Club, 67 Ockocanganset Hill, 28a Parley's chair, Peter, 84 Niantic, 161 October Mountain, 387 Parris, Rev. Samuel, 691 Nobleboro, 769 Ogunquit, 676 Parrish, Maxfield, 348,352 Nolen, John, 88 Ohio Company, the, 447, Parsons, John E., 251 Nooseneck Hill, R.I., 171 459 Pasquaney, 720 Nordica, Lillian, 754 Old Bay Path, 65 Pataguanset River, 161 Norfolk, 287 Old Boston Post Road, 65, Path Norfolk Hunt Club, 498 66, 68 Colonial Bridle, 43 Noroton, 79 'Old Connecticut Path,' 43 Hadley, 43 Norridgewock, 741 Old Deerfield, Mass., 317, Old Bay, 65 Norsemen, 148, 555, 590, 414 Old Conn., 43 762 "Old Grimes is dead," 142 Pequot, 150 North Acton, 422 Old Hadley, Mass., 323 Pattaquamscot Purchase Northampton, 261 Oldham, John, 43, 61, 127, 174 North Andover, 511 297 Pawlet, 450 North Anson, 756 John. 480 Pawling, 239 North Attleboro, 195 Old Lyme, 159 Pawtucket, R.I., 194, 431 Northboro, 142 Old Mill Green, 8a, 88 Peabody, 514 Northbridge, 445 "Old Oaken Bucket," 529 George, 21, 355, 514, North Conway, 715 Old Orchard, 681 639, 691 North Dartmouth, 435 Old Saybrook, 156 Museum, 100, 469 Northeast Harbor, 778 Old Town, 788 Peacedale, R.I., 175 North Easton, 574 Mill, 163 p?ach-growing, 302 .North Edsecomb, 768 Olde Lyme Street, 162 Peary, Rear-admiral R. E. North Falmouth, 565 Olmsted, Frederick Law, 384, 687, 746 Northfield, 335 40, 117, 190, 406 Pease, John, 140 Northford, iio-m Olmsteds, the, 275, 474 Levi, 44, 141 North Franklin, 366 Olney, Richard, 565 Peddlers, 61, no Hampstead Turnpike, 66 Oneida Indians, 120 Peekskill, 229 Haven, 107 Onset, 561 Pelham Ave., 66 Hero, 273 Optic, Oliver, 496 Bay, 67 Pownal, 273 Orange, 25, 416 Bay Park, 67 Raynham, 575 Orford, 362 Manor, 67, 70 Salem, N.Y., 206 Orienta Point, 71 Parkway, 65, 66, 67 Scituate, 527 Orleans, 550 Pell, John, 70 Stamford, 77 Orono, 33, 788 mansion, 67 Northumberland, 365 Oronoque, 89 Thomas, 67 'North Way,' 74 O.4)orn Hill, 85 Pell's Point, 67 North Wilbraham, 131 Osborne.ThomasMott, 228 Pemaquid, 769 North Windham, Me., 742 Ossining, 229 Pemigewasset, 619 North Woodstock, 618 Oisipee, 712 Pemigewasset River, 619 Norton, 484 Osterville, 568 Penacook, 721 INDEX Peneplain, 25, 412 Pitt, William, 264, 386 Prospect, 773 Penobscot River, 51, 761 Pittsfield, 126, 383 Proterozoic, 29 Pepperell, Sir William, 672, Pittsford, Vt., 264 Providence Athenaeum, 188 68 1 Plainfield, Conn., 373 R.I., 59, 64, 181-193 Pequonnock river, 88, 89 N.H.,352 "Providence Plantations," Pequot Hill, 169 Plainville, 210 59 Library, 83 Plant, Morton F., 162, 164, Provincetown, 554 Path, 150 1 68 Psychozoic, 29 Point, 164 Platt, Charles A., 348, 350 Puritan," "The, 124 Poultry Farm, 83 Plattsburg, N.Y., 273, 295 Puritans, 21, 34, 42, 58, 97, Trail, Old, 177, 180 Battle of, 268, 273 98, 116, 173, 300 War, 34, 291, 453, 480 Pleasantville, 237 Putnam, Conn., 216 Pequots, the, 33, 83, 97, Plum Island, 657 Cottage, 75 152, 169, 180, 296, 298 Plymouth Company, the, Hill Park, 75 Percy, Earl, 427-429 36, 774 Israel, 75, 114, 216, 692 Perkins Institution, 50, 149 Harbor, 61 Rufus, 134, 446, 447 Perry, Matthew Gilbraith, Mass., 28, 32, 48, 537 Putn .m's Leap, 75 6, 173, 590 Meadows, 304 Putney, 332 Oliver Hazard, 60, 173, N.H.,6i7 Heights, 90 186, 588 Rock, 52, 539 Pynchon, Major John, 128, Perryville, 173, 174 Plympton, 433 3i4 Peru, Mass., 397 Pocumtucks, 411 William, 120, 126, 127, Vt., 724 Podunk river, 119 128, 290 Peterboro, 378 Podunks, 118, 296 Peters, Hugh, 34 Poe Cottage, 66, 235 Quaboag Pond, 134 History of Conn., 298 Edgar Allan, 66, 188 Quaboags, 132 Petersham, 447 Park, 66, 235 Quakers, persecution of, 58, Pewter, 108 Poet's Seat, 319 78, 116, 161, 178, 179, Phelps, Anson G., 280 Point Judith, 27, 173, 176, 240, 454,642,695, 710 Edward J., 266, 735 177 Quamquisset, 566 Elizabeth Stuart, 133,511 Poland Spring, 749 "Quaneh-ta-cut river," 61 William L., 104 Poli, Mr., lob Queechee, 726 Philip, King, 134, 139, 196, Pomfret, 28, 215 Quincy, 520 317, 33S, 431, 432, Ponkapog, 573 Dorothy, 85, 277, 428, 484, 502 Population of N.E., 22, 429, 520, 666 Philip's War, King, 128, 254, 205 Quinsigamond, Lake, 140 146, 195, 201, 310,' Pootatuc Yacht Club, QO Quoddy Head, 51, 73 317, 396, 419, 524, Port Chester, N.Y., 72 578 Jefferson, 66 Race Rock lighthouse, 165 chair, King, 317 Porter, H^iss Charlotte, 324 Radcliffe, Anne, 463 Philipse, Frederick, 222, Noah, 212 College, 463 224, 225 Porter's School, Miss, 211, Rafe's Chasm, 646 Manor, 224, 226, 227, 212 Randolph, Me., 751 228 Portland, 26, 40, 682 Mass., 62, 558 Phillips Academy, An- Conn., 302 Rangeley, 754 dover, 511, 703 Portsmouth, 40, 666 Rattlesnakes, 289 Academy, Exeter, 702, Portuguese, 32, 555, 564 Ravonah Manor, 77 73 Post Road, 65, 73, 74, 75, Raybestos brake-linings. 89 Beach, 632 80, 82, 88, 90 Raymond, Me., 743 Phips, Sir William, 767. potato clubs, 53 N.H., 703 769 crop, 53 Reading, 510 "Pickle for the Knowing Poughkeepsie, 21, 230 Redding Ridge, 275 Ones," 662 Poultney, 450 "Redeemed Captive,The," Pierce, Sarah, 22 Pownal, 405 319 Pierpont, Rev. James, 96 Pratt, Bel;i, 457, 639 Redfield, William C., 295 Pierrot, Peter, 90 Preble, Commodore Ed- , Red Hook, 232 Pierson, Abraham, 103,1,1; ward, 683 Red Lion Inn, 250 Pike, N.H., 362 "Precaution," 71 Red Rocks, 269 Pilgrims, 32, 42, 61, 537, Presidential Range, 55, Reed, Thomas Brackett, 554, 556 622, 748 686 Pillory, 116 Prides Crossing, 644 Reeve, Judge Tapping, 85, Pine, white, 32 Princeton, 502 277, 298 Pines, Carlisle, 506 Pring. Martin, 33, 670 Regicides, The, 92, 98, 108, Pinkham Notch, 624 Printing, 197 324 Pin Mfg., 280 Proctor, 264 See Goffe, W r halley and Pisgah forest, 32, 337 Senator Redfield, 264 Dixwell Pitcairn, Major, 423, 427, Proctorsville, 597 Rehoboth, 170, 195, 431, 428, 460 Profile Notch, 55, 620 434 Pitcher, Moll, 631, 636 The, 620 Reid, Whitelaw 205 839 Remington Arms - Union Rowley, 656 Savin Rock, 93 Metallic Cartridge Roxbury, 127, 448, 454 Saw Pit Landing, 72 Co., 87, 88, 89 Royal James Inn, 80 Saxtons River, 334 Frederick, 6g Royall, Isaac, 600 Saybrook, 26, 156 Rensselaer, 381, 407 House, 48, 600 Old, 156 Polytechnic Institute, Rubber industry, 61, 105 Saye and Sele, Lord, 158, 402 Rublee, George, 350 306 Revere, Paul, 68, 120, 147, Rum and niggers, 35, 70 Scarboro, 681 148, 202, 427, 458, Rumford, Count; Scarsdale, 235 461, 775 See Thompson, Benja- Schaghticoke, 403 Beach, 628 min Schodack Center, 233, Revolution, The, 67, 71, Rumsey Hall School, 289 382 7Q, 98, 108, 155, 165, Russell, Mass., 395 Schurz, Carl, 227 179, 205, 223, 226, Rutland, Mass., 446 Schuylerville, 725 260, 271, 423, 430, Vt., 263 Scituate, 28, 529 440, 511, 565, 582, Rye, Conn., 66, 71 Scott, Sir Walter, 226 587, 643, 662 Beach, Conn., 72 Seabrook, 663 Rhinebeck, 231 Beach, N.H., 665 Sea Cliff, 66 Rhode Island, 25, 27, 28, Port, 72 "Sea Flower," 35 35,45,49,59,60,61,64 Seminary, 72 Seal Harbor, 778 area, 59 Sealshipt Oyster Co., 91 eighteenth-century life, Sabbath Day Lake, 749 Searsburg, 706 60 Sachem's Head, 152 Searsport, 773 founded, 59 Saco, 680 Seaside Park, 87, 88 political affairs, 60 river, 39, 715, 745 Sebago Lake, 742 School of Design, 188 Sagadahoc river, 52 Sedgwick family, the, 250, size, 59 Sagamore, 544 390, 409 triangular trade, 60 Sage, Mrs. Russell, 335, Seekonk, 431, 434 See Providence 402 Sergeant, John, 251, 252 Richardson, Henry H., 50, Sag Harbor, 152 Seton, Ernest Thompson, 122, 123, 125, 164, St. Aspenquid, 673 75 27, 457, 468, 574 St. Gabriel's Church, 68 Sewall, Judge Samuel, 174, Riis, Jacob, 447 Saint-Gaudens, Augustus, 458, 656 Rindge, F. H., 463 123, 124, 286, 348, Seymour, 280 Ringling Brothers, 86, 87 349, 457 Shakers, 382, 383, 393, 499, Rippowam river, 77 Riverside, 75 Homer, 350 Louis, 250, 348, 350, 353, 739., 749 Shaler,N.S.,28, 31, 36,45, Recreation Ground, 148 457 655 Roads, 43, 162, 543 St. John, Peter, 79 Sharon, Conn., 241 Rochambeau, 113, 117, St. Johnsbury, 731 Mass., 202 209, 226, 236, 587 St. John's College, 66 Vt., 729 Rochelle, 68 St. Lawrence valley, 24 Shaw, Francis, 147 Rochester, 711 St. Mark's School, 491 Lucretia, 163 Rock Dunder, 270 Sakonnet Point, 583 Shawmut, 444, 453 " Rocked in the Cradle of Salem, 40, 41, 116, 120, 128 Shays' Rebellion, 58, 125, the Deep," 109 merchants, 35 129, 140, 142, 252,316, Rockefeller, 22 Salisbury Beach, 663 576 John D., 226, 227 Conn., 243 Sheffield, 247 Percy A., 74 Mass., 694 Scientific School, 101 William, 74, 227 Stephen, 138 Shelburne Falls, 413 Rockland, 770 Vt., 265 Me., 751 Rockport, 771 Salmon Falls, N.H., 711 Vt., 269 Rockridge, 74 Saltonstall, Richard, 453, Sheldon, George,, 319 Rockwell, Solomon, 6gb 698 John, 319 Rocky Hill, 296 Salt works, 89, 545, 548 Shell heaps, Indian, 180, Roger Williams Park, 181, Samoset, 769 769 192 Sanborn, Frank B., 426 Shelton, 279 Rogers, H. H., 437 Kate, 219 Sherborn, 497 Hall School, 604, 800 "Sanctuary," 353 Sherburne, 727 Lake, 162, 299 sandstone, 26 Sherman, General, 66 Roosevelt, Theodore, 99 Sandwich, 543 Roger M., 85, 97 Rosemary Hall, 74, 75 Saracenic architecture, 50 Shipbuilding, 52, 453, 523, Roton Point, 81 "Saratoga," the, 268 670, 696, 767 Round Hill, 74, 85 Sargent, John S., 456 Shippan Point, 77 Rouse's Point, 274 Sargentville, 775 Shirley Gut, 38, 629 Routes, 64 Saugatuck River, 82 Shoddy, 196, 723 Rowayton, 80 Saugus, 149, 482 Shoemaking, 219,630,631, Rowlandson, Mrs., 448, Saunderstown, 177 652 52, s3 Savin, 32 Shoonhoven Park, 86 840 INDEX Shrewsbury, 140, 141, 142 Spot Pond, Mass., 481 Sullivan, John I,., 483 Signal Station, 85, 265 'Springfield Gileadites,' Summer visitors, 22 Silk, 213, 215, 367, 400 129 Sunapee, 721 Silkworm culture, 108, 213 Mass., 121, 130 Sunnyside, 226 Sill, Edward, 304, 305 Plain, 130 Sun Tavern, 80 Silurian, 29 Vt., 722 Surriage, Agnes, 461, 636 Sing Sing State Prison, Spuyten Duyvil Creek Swampscott, 632 228, 240 N.Y., 223 Swansea, 434 Skowhegan, 756, 784 "Spy," the, 70, 71, 207, ' Switzerland of America,' Sky Falls, 256 229, 236 55 Meadows, 77 Squam Lake, 616 Slater, Mrs. Horatio N., Squanto, 34, 522 Table of Contents, 64 375 Squantum, 522 Taconic Mountains, 27, 28 John F., 21 Stafford Springs, 367 Taft, William H., 95, 104, Memorial Park, 194 Stage-drivers, 417 445, 636 mill, 194, 195 Stamford, 66, 71, 76, 84 Talcott Mountain, 116 Samuel, 194 Standish, Miles, 453, 522, Talleyrand, 460, 465 Slavery, 34, 173, 175, 261, 535, 538, 545, 556, Tallmadge, Major Benja- 266, 453, 550, 587 559, 560, 563 min, 77 Slave trade, 35, 441, 587 Monument, 535 Tarratine Indians, 762, Sleepy Hollow Cemetery, Stanley, Dean, sgb 77, 774, 775 227 Stark, General, 258, 260, Tarrytown, 226 Smibert, John, 48 340, 607 Taunton, 432, 576 Smith, 73 General John, 258, 607 Taverns, Colonial, 44, 72, College, 313 Starr King; 80, 84, 91, 107, 113, F. Hopkinson, 165 See King, Starr 135, 143, 144, J47, G. W. V. Collection, 124 State Highway Commis- 215, 460 Harry Worcester, 139, sions, 64 Taylor, James P., 17, 57, 493 Trunk Highways, 45 334 Captain John, 33, 52, Steamboats, early; Bayard, 664, 74* 453, 630, 647, 670, See Fitch, 119 Tea Party, Boston, 459 678 Fulton Templeton, 418 Jonathan, 255 Joseph, 58, 515 Wells River, 357 Stedman, Edmund C., 315, Tertiary, 29 Tewksbury, 603 Oliver, 316 371, 666 Texas, 55 Sophia, 313, 316 Sterling, 376, 502 Textile mfg., 23 "Snowbound," 695, 697 Steuben, Baron, 229 Thacher family, the, 547, Soap, Packer's Tar, 170 Stillwater, 78 648 Somers, 239 Slimson, F. J., 199 Island, 648 Somerset, 579 Stockbridge, 249 Thames River, 163 Somersworth, 711 Bowl, 251, 388 "The Barefoot Boy," 697 Somerville, 509 Stokes, Anson Phelps, 96 "The House of the Seven Sons of American Revolu- estate, 75, 388 Gables," 390 tion, 65 Isaac Phelps, 74 "The Last of the Mohi- "Sons of Liberty," 199,347 Stoneham, 140, 482, 510 cans," 404 Sound, the, 26, 65, 75, 81 Stonington, Conn., 170 "The melancholy days are Beach, 75 Stony Brook, 148 come," 248 Southboro, 491 Story, Ann, 265 "The Pearl of Orr's Isl- Southbridge, 368 Stoughton, 574 and," 687 Southbury, 208 Stowe, Mrs. Harriet "The Raven," 66 South Easton, 575 Beecher, 115,153, 249, "The Real Diary of a Real South Egremont, 245 278, 486, 489, 687, Boy," 703 South Hadley, 322 765 "The Redeemed Captive," South Hero, Vt., 273 Stratfield, 89 319 Southington, 210 Stratford, 89, 279 "The Simple Cobbler of South Natick, 488 Hollow, 365 Agawam," 655 South Norwalk, 80 Stratton, 755 "The Virginian," 257 South Paris, 750 Strawberry Bank, 671 "The Wide, Wide World," Southport, 83 Hill, 77 39 South Shaftsbury, 261 Straw-weaving, 196 "The Wonder Book," 390 South Sudbury, 145, 146 Stuart, Gilbert, 138, 177, Thespians, 68 South Weymouth, 28, 483 186, 457, 590 Thetford, 355 South Williamstown, 256 Sturbridge, 368 Thimble Is., 151 South Windsor, 119 Submarines, 87, 91 Thomas, Seth, 281 Spencer, Mass., 134-135 Sudbury, 38, 505 Thomaston. Conn., 281 Split Rock, 268 Suffield, 307 Me., 770 Rock Road, 67 Suffolk, 83, 307 Thompson, 374 Spofford, Harriet Prescott, Resolves, the, 198 Benjamin, 458, 603, 609 694 Sugar Hill, 621 Orrin, 120 INDEX 841 Thompsonville, 120 Turner, Captain, 77, 205 Wabanaki, 75 Thoreau, 38, 410, 424, 426, Turners Falls, 26, 291 Wachusett Reservoir, 376, , 549, SSL 57i Turnpikes, 40, 44, 73, 222. 504 Throg's Neck, 67 280, 369, 625 Mt., 419 Thrushwood, 75 Turret lathes, 342, 343, 722 Waconah Falls, 397 Thumb, General Tom, 87, Twain, Mark, 114, 115, Wakefield, 514 560 275, 393. 465 N.H., 712 Tichenor, Isaac, 6ib Tweed, Boss, 74 R.I., 175 Ticknor, George, 361 Twin Mountain, 621 Walcott family, 128 Ticonderoga, 55, 287, 308, Tyngsboro, 606 Walden Pond, 426 450, 462 Tyringham, 393 Waldstein, 86 Tilden, Samuel J., 224, 382 Waldoboro, 769 Tilton, 612 Umbrella Point, 71 Wales, 368 Edward L., 124 Uncas, Mohegan Sachem, Wallingford, Conn., 107, "Timothy Titcomb 152,169,370,371,372. 1 08 Papers," i2Q 405 Vt., 263 Titicus Mountain, 206 Uncasville, 370 Walloomsac Inn, 258 Tiverton, 582 'Underground Railway,' Walpole, 196 Tobacco, 62, 118, 212, 307 129, 237, 238, 406, 420 N.H., 338 Topsfield, 515 Underbill, Captain John, Waltham, 43, 149, 479 River, 39 76, 205 Walton's Register of Vt., Tories, 72, 70, 86, 405 Unitarian Church, 6$b 56 Torre del Mangia, Siena, U.S. Arsenal, Springfield, Wampanaw, 78 209 125 Wampum, 34, 180, 211 Torrington, Conn., 282 Arsenal, Watertown, 149 Wannalancet, 605 Torture, 317, 319, 449, 710 Naval Station, New Wappingers Falls, 230 Totoket Mountain, m London, 163 Waquoit, 567 Townsend, 507 Revenue-Cutter Service War of 1812,688 Townshend, 447 School, 164 See Civil, Revolution, Toy manufacturing, 596 Rubber Company, 106 etc. "Toy-town''; 'Ship Canal, 223 Waramaug, 276 S^e Winchendon University Hall, 49 Ward, Colonel Andrew, 153 Conn., 43 Untermeyer, Samuel, 224 Ganeral Andrew, 153 Indian, 43, 65, 73, 127, 222, 248 Trail, Old Pequot, 180 Uxbndge, 445 Vail, Theodore, 56 142 Artemus, 744 Vermont's Long, 259, 'Valley Villages,' the, 166 J. Q. A., 271 263 Van Buren, President, 233 Wareham, 561 "Tramp, tramp, tramp," Van Cortlindt manor, 239 Warner Brothers, 89 247 mansion, the, 202 Charles Dudley, 115,413 "Travels in New Eng- Park, 203 Susan, 390 land," 117 Vanderbilt, Mrs. Alfred, Warren, Dr. Joseph, 460 Treat, Governor Robert, 91 389 . Lavinia, 87 Trees, 31 Cornelius, 2d, 101, 115 Me., 770 Triassic, 29, 290, 302 Frederick B., 101 Mass., 132, 133 sandstones, 305 F. W., 231 R.I., 439 trap, 323 Hall, 100 Russell, 49, 440 Trinity College, 114, 115, William K., 592 Thief - Catching Soci- 299 Vane, Sir Harry, 456, 472 ety," "The, 132 Trowbridge, John T., 480, Van Tassel, Cornelius, 236 Warville, Brissot de; 678 Vassall, Colonel Henry, 463 See de Warville Troy, 402 John, 465 Warwick, Earl of, 157, 180, Trumbull, 85 Leonard, 520 448 Gallery, 100 Vassar College, 230 Mass., 448 Governor, 301 Verazzano, 31, 33, 59, 73, R.I., 180 Colonel John, 100, 117, 622 Washburn, Ichabod, 137, 155, 366 Vergennes, 267 139 Jonathan, 366 Vermont, 31, 45, 51, 55, 56, Washington, George, 47, Truro, 552 344 65, 67, 72, 82, 84, 91, Tryon, 81, 82 Academy, 56, 334 108, in, 117, 122, Governor William, 207 dairy industry, 56 131, 132, 133, 134, Tryon's raiders, 75, 83, 207 marble, 124 136, 137, 143, 144, Tuftonboro, 615 Republican Party, 56 145, 147, 162, 163, Tufts College, 601 State Seal, 261 188, 189, 195, 199, College Summer Labo- State Fair, 345 203, 204, 205, 224, ratory, 688 "Vermont," the, 272 225, 236, 238, 240, Nathan, 601 Vernon, 329 296, 298, 305, 366, Park, 509 Verplanck's Point, 228, 229 381, 392, 405, 463, Tumbledown Brook, 116 Volcanoes, 26, 107 465, 476, 563, 641, 842 INDEX Washington, George, Westfield, 395 Wilkins, Mary E., 558 66b, 669, 698, 699, West Haven, 93, 98 Willard, Emma Hart, 22, 702, 703 West India trade, 35, 81, 109 Washington, Mt., 623, 716 165, 291, 36, 533, Williams, Betsy, 181, 192 "Washington Route," 65 587,642 College, 256, 406, 408 Watch Hill, R.I., 171, 172 West Lebanon, 354, 360 Eleazar, 120 Waterbury, Conn., 25, 208 Westminster, Mass., 419 Ephraim, 251, 408, 412 Vt., 734 Vt.,332 Eunice, 120 Waterfoid, Conn.. 161 War, 54 George Fred, 58, 199 Vt., 358 Westmoreland, 337 John P., 120, 334 Waterpower, 311, 329, 334, Weston, 43, 147 Rev. John, 319 412, 415, 443, 706, Westport, 8 1, 83 Roger, 181, 187, 192, 758 W r est Rindge, 377 .193, 317 Watertown, Conn., 284 West Rock, 27, 92 Williamsburg, 400 Mass., 76, 146, 149, 297, West Springfield, 127, 309 Williamstown, Mass., 406 453 Wethersfield, 31, 43, 103, Vt., 729 Waterville, 760 128, 149, 296, 723 Willimantic, 214 Watuppa Ponds, 435, 580 Weymouth, 27, 28, 33, 52, Williston, 734 Wayland, Francis, 147 483 Samuel, 312 Mass., 146, 147 Captain, 757, 770, 772 Seminary, 312 Wayne, 'Mad Anthony,' Whaleboat men, 72, 79 Wilmington, 706 228, 450 Whaling, 166, 170, 437, Wilson, President, I S9, 347 Wayside Inn, 144 545, 552 Wilson's Point, 81 Weathersfield Bow, 341 Whalley, Edward, 92, 93, Wilton, Conn., 275 Vt., 298, 341 98, 109, 153, 325, Me., 741 Webb house, 296 471 N.H., 704 Webotuck, 240, 289 See Regicides Winchendon, 596 Webster, 375 Wharton, Mrs. Edith, 389 Winchester guns, 105 Daniel, 54, 58, 66, 82, Wheeler, Nathaniel, 87 Mass., 602 105, 202,313,316,361, & Wilson sewing ma- Windham Center, 215 375, 44i, 528, 532, chine, 87, 89 Windsor, Conn., 43, 62, 561, 567, 6xi 694, Wheelock, Rev. Eleazar, 128, 304 703, 718 62, SOI| 366 Locks, 306 Noah, 62, 97, 212 Wheelwright Co., the Mass., 398 Webster's Dictionary, 129 George W., 377 Vt., 342 Weeks, Senator John W., Whip-making, 395 Wingdale, 240 59, 364, 623 Whipping post, 84, 92, 95, Winnepesaukee; Weirs, The, 613 122, 278, 459 See Lake Welles, Gideon, 117, 303 Whipple, Abraham, 60 Winooski, 273, 735 Wellesley, 479, 486 Whistler, James McNeil, Winslow, John, 458 Hills, 486 _347, 604 Governor Josiah, 34, Wellfleet, 552 Whitcombs Summit, 25, 173, 533, 577 Wells, 677 412 Winsor, Thomas, 35 Reuben F., 7gb Whitefield, 364 Winsted, Conn., 282, 287 River, 357 George, 90, 133, 659 Winthrop, Governor John, Wenaumet, 564 Rev. Henry, 153 34, 44, 148, 301, 453, Wendell, Jacob, 386, 387 White Mountains, 25, 39, 462, 472, 479, 506, Wenham, 652 54, 622 509, 577, 655 Wentworth, Governor Plains, 67, 204 Me., 758 Benning, 257, 260, Plains, Battle of, 204, Mass., 629 341, 346, 361, 405, 237, 238 the Younger, John, 157, 666, 669, 723, 747 Plains Road, 66 160, 163, 165, 293, 631 Governor John, 55, 361, River Junction, 345 Wiscasset, 768 669 Whitney, Anne, 476 Wister, Owen, 391 Wepawaug, 90 Eli, 44, 97, 104, 139, 493, Witches, 58, 84, 90, 116, Wesleyan University, 294 559 128, 298, 454, 642, Wesson, Daniel B., 126 Harry Payne, 393 688, 691, 692, 767 Memorial Hospital, Cyn- Josiah Dwight, 315 Woburn, 40, 602 thia, 126 William D., 315, 409 Wolcott, Governor Oliver, West Boylston, 376 Whittier, 635, 659, 663, 276 Westbrook, Conn., 155 664, 680, 692, 693, Wolcotts, the, 282 West Brookfield, 133 694, 695, 696, 697, Wolcottville, 282 West Compton, 618 698, 713, 714, 74i, Wolfeboro, 615 West Charleston, 787 774 Wollaston, 522 Westchester Country Club, Wjckford, R.I., 178 Wood, Leonard, 657 67 Wiggin, Kate Douglas, 511 Woodbridge, Rev. John, West Cornwall, Conn., 289 Wilbraham, 131 8ic West Dummerston, 449 Academy, 131 Woodbury, 208 Westerly, R.I., 171 Mountains, 131 Woodcock Garrison, 195 INDEX 843 Woodford, 707 Yacht Clubs Yale, Elihu, 103 Woodmont, 93 Beverly, 438 Linus, Jr., 414 Woods Hole, 566 Bridgeport, 88 Locks, 77, 414 Woodstock, 38, 43, 618, Champlain, 269 rowing, 279 726 Corinthian, 633 Samuel, 109 Woolen mill, first, 117 Eastern, 633 Yalesville, 108 Woolens, 194, 252, 341, Larchmont, 68 Yankee Doodle House, 81 386 Milford, 91 peddlers, 307 Woolwich, 767 New Rochelle, 68 Yantic, 366, 370, 371 Woonsocket, 217, 444 New York, 593 Yarmouth, Me., 764 Worcester, 136, 140, 148 Norwalk, 81 Mass., 548 Academy, 139 Park City, 88 Yarmouthport, 547 Wren, Sir Christopher, 49, Yale boat races, 151, 163 Yellow Mill Harbor, 88 113, 159 Charles P., 108 Mill Pond, 88 Wrentham, 196 College, 35, 37, 62, 94, Yokun Seat, 387 Wright, Mrs. Mabel Os- 99-104, 158, 162, 287, Yonkers, 224 good, 86 301 York, Me., 673 Wykagyl, 68 David, 103 "Youth's Companion," 17 A HANDBOOK OF AMERICAN PRIVATE SCHOOLS A GUIDE BOOK FOR PARENTS, A COMPENDIUM FOR EDUCATORS. Second Edition, 1916, with many new features, wholly rewritten and set in new type. 608 pages, with illustrations and map, crimson silk cloth, round corners, gold stamped, $2.00 prepaid. ^argent's t>aiiLibooli Scries AMERICAN PRIVATE SCHOOLS A Discriminating Review of the Private Schools as they ARE today, with some consideration of their History, Traditions, Personnel, and Patronage. Written without Fear or Favor with the Cooperation of Hundreds of Educators throughout the country. Particulars of over 2500 Private Schools in the United States and Canada and over 330 Summer Camps for Boys and Girls. Indispensable to Parents, Teachers, School and College Offi- cers, and all interested in Education. INTRODUCTORY CHAPTERS include Education in America; What They Say; How This Book Was Written; Why is the Private School; Selecting the School, the Why of This Book; An Educational Service Bureau; History of the Private School; Chronological List of Historic Schools; The Early Education of Girls; Development of the Summer Camp; The New School Movement; The Year's Advance in Education; College Entrance Requirements; Measuring Educational Results; Recent Edu- cational Literature; A Select Classified Reading List. CRITICAL DESCRIPTION OF SCHOOLS AND CAMPS, geographi- cally arranged: Boys'. Military, Girls', Coeducational; Music, Art, Kindergarten Training, Physical Education, Expression and Dramatic Art, Household Arts, Schools for the Deficient, Private Schools of Canada, Boys' Summer Camps, Girls' Summer Camps. COMPARATIVE TABLES, geographically arranged, make possible ready comparison of particulars, special features, Tuition, Courses, Enrollment, Success in College Preparation of the schools of the above classifications. EDUCATIONAL DIRECTORIES give Particulars of Educational Associations, Periodicals, Teachers' Agencies, School Bureau; Publishers, Lecturers and Lecture Bureaus, and Firms dealing in all kinds of Educational Supplies and Equipment. ILLUSTRATED ANNOUNCEMENTS of Schools and Camps give authoritative, carefully edited particulars of what each has to offer. A WHO'S WHO in the Private Schools and Index of Schools and of Camps is of great reference value. * l^anfrfroofe A HANDBOOK OF AMERICAN COLLEGES AND UNIVERSITIES (In preparation) A Critical and Discriminating Review of the Colleges and Universities of the United States and Canada, their History, Traditions, Personnel, and the particular Service each has per- formed for its community or for the nation. Introductory chapters deal with the Historical Development of the College in America, the Function of the University, the Choice of a College, the Development of the Summer School, etc. The older and more important universities are treated at some length, while the smaller colleges are more briefly considered. Separate chapters deal with the Schools of Law, Medicine, Engineering, Architecture, Forestry, Theology, etc., and the University Summer Schools. The Comparative Tables bring together the more important statistics, and characteristics which are of most significance, such as Date of Establishment, Income, Endowment, Attendance, Alumni, Tuition, Entrance Requirements, etc. The Appendices include a Bibliography, a List of Academic and Scientific Associations, a List of College Publications, and Directories of value to College Authorities. This Handbook will be both a Directory and a Year-book, giving in one volume condensed and up-to-date information of institutions for higher education. As such it will be of value to Educators. It will also be a Guide-book of assistance to Schools and all planning for a College Course. Cut here, fill oiit, and return. Date 1916. Porter E. Sargent, Congress St., Boston, Mass. The undersigned will be interested to receive a descriptive circular of A Handbook of American Colleges and Universities. Name Address. _ Sargent * A HANDBOOK OF THE MIDDLE STATES (In preparation) Uniform in plan with the HANDBOOK OF NEW ENGLAND. Provides reliable, up-to-date information of human interest for Visitors, Tourists, and Residents. The arrangement follows the chief automobile routes of travel. City, Town, and Countryside with all their prominent feat- ures and points of interest are described. The Scenery, the Historic Sites and Houses, the Parks and Monuments, and the more significant Industries, Educational Institutions, and Public Works, are brought to the reader's attention clearly, yet briefly. Anecdotes and particulars of distinguished characters are given, together with quotations and references from many authors of the past and present. Introductory Chapters treat of the Agriculture, Manufactures, History, Geography, Geology, Scenery, Architecture, Flora, etc., characteristic of the region. The Appendices include a Bibliography. The Directories give systematically arranged lists of Hotels, Garages, Railroad and Steamship Information, Schools and Summer Camps, and other information of value. The material for this Handbook is being brought together with the cooperation of Local Authorities, Chambers of Commerce, Historical Societies, and others. Cut here, fill out, and return. Date ____________________ 1916. Porter E. Sargent, 50 Congress St., Boston, Mass. The undersigned ivill be interested to receive an illustrated de- scriptive circular of A Handbook of the Middle States. Name ______________________________________________ Address.- UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY Los Angeles This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 30m-7,'68(J1895s4) C-120 \ LONDON \ DERRY \ DERRY 1 -r W'NDHAM HUDSON/ PELHAM V- NEW\ I \ MASON \BROOKLIN& HO LI IS / / BOLTON STOW j_ ASHLAN t ~T_^4iv\ SHERBOR1 ^ - v E R ' w 2*L< j HOPKINTON ^ KINSO^PLAISTOW' A 000415510 7 KEY MAP OF EASTERN MASSACHUSETTS WITH COLOR MARKERS ALONG ROUTES > N W Lpl i \1 / " N ORWELL \