THE 
 
 AIS/IERICAN 
 
 SeVeiMXW EDITIOM. 
 
 WfilTXHiM^ 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 
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Volume 1 of the "Oven and Range" Series. 
 
 -^THE-4- 
 
 AMERICAN 
 PASTRY COOK 
 
 -^ SEVENTH EDITION. i^ 
 
 A Book of perfected Receipts, for making all sorts of articles required 
 
 of the Hotel Pastry Cook, Baker and Confectioner, especially 
 
 adapted for Hotel and Steamboat use, and for 
 
 Cafes and Fine Bakeries. 
 
 Jessup Whitehead. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 Jessup Whitehead & Co., Publishers. 
 10 94. 
 

 
 Entered according to Act of Congress, 
 In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C 
 
 Right of Translation reserved. 
 
AGRiC. 
 LIBRARY 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT, 
 
 THIS BOOK is especially adapted for use in Hotels, Boarding-Houses, 
 Confectionery-Caf^s, Restaurants and Eating-Houses generally, in which 
 respect it enters upon a field hitherto unoccupied. The quantities of the 
 receipts are calculated for what experience has taught the author are the, 
 average orders of about fifty persons choosing from a bill of fare, but 
 which are really only about thirty portions. In many of the more import-, 
 ant matters, such as Puff Paste, Bread and Eolls, Cakes, Ices, Creams, and 
 Pie Mixtures, and in Cold Meat Dishes, Corned Beef management, and 
 Salads, the standard of one pound or quart used will be found to make the 
 receipts equally useful for private families, and the trouble of dividing the 
 larger quantities in other cases will probably be fully repaid by the simple 
 conciseness of the directions, the absence of all technical jargon, and the 
 professional knowledge of the art of cookery imparted in every page. The 
 book is unique also in having all the articles directed to be made graded 
 in regard to cost, to meet the requirements both of those who do cooking 
 fov pleasure and those who are concerned in cooking for profit. 
 
 Since the above was first printed another book has been issued by the 
 same author, in which all of the receipts are reduced to the guage of meals 
 for six or eight. It is especially adapted to teach cooking as a trade for 
 women in private houses, and includes everything likely to be of use for 
 the purpose, arranged in order from the cheapest meals up to party dinners 
 and suppers. It is called the Chicago Herald Cooking School. 
 
Introductory in the National Hotel Reporter. 
 
 For any apparent presuraptuousness there may be 
 in spreading these cooking receipts and instructions 
 before the professed cooks of the country in the most 
 widely circulated and most influential hotel journal, 
 I have to oflFer as apology that I was long ago im- 
 pressed with the singular fact, that among all the ex- 
 cellent cooks, hardly any could be found who worked 
 by any rule or measure. This was especially the 
 case with American cooks. They knew how them- 
 selves, but could not have given exact instructions 
 even to their sons without first instituting a series of 
 experiments, and their knowledge perished with 
 them. I simply set to work to reduce my portion of 
 the general knowledge to exact figures, and the merit 
 claimed therefore is not for very extraordinary 
 skill, but rather for the painstaking industry that 
 has never allowed a receipt to be put away marked 
 0. K., without being satisfied that it was quite re- 
 liable. 
 
 Another consideration offered is, that the stewards, 
 and others, who buy for cooks to use, not being, in 
 the great majority of ca«es, practical cooks them- 
 selves, are apt to consider many of the demands of 
 the cooks for certain kinds of materials necessary to 
 good work, as but unreasonable whims, not worthy 
 of notice, and it is difficult to see how the requisite 
 explanations are ever to be made, unless through 
 some such means and medium as the present, 
 
 J. W. 
 Daily National Hotel Reporter, Oct., 1878. 
 
 RECEIPT OR RECIPE? 
 
 ' Which is right ? Worcester says that a recipe is a 
 receipt for cooking ; also, that it is a formulary or 
 prescription for mixing certain articles, particularly 
 in medicine. Webster, also, makes recipe and re- 
 ceipt appear nearly synonymous terms, and attaches 
 to the former a particularly medical meaning that is 
 nowhere made to belong to the other.. The French 
 recette, which appears to be the original of our re- 
 ceipt, is pronounced like it; and yet all the translated 
 French books have recipe inst-ead. Of half a dozen 
 different articles on the grocer's shelves, four have 
 recipes printed on the packages while others give re- 
 ceipts. Of six persons talking together, four or five 
 will say recipe, the rest receipt. The label on the 
 bottle tells you that the sauce beside your plate was 
 prepared from the receipt of a nobleman of the 
 county. But the nobleman's only authoritative 
 English cook-book uses recipe. By its side is another 
 later and very compendious work which is adver- 
 Ssed as containing so many thousand receipts. Still 
 another more recent and even more compendious 
 London book, uses the other word. Both words are 
 right, but which is the better ? 
 
 Several hundred pages of the matter which it is 
 proposed to publish in this column, had been writ- 
 
 ten with the word recipe, according to the observed 
 practice of the majority, but after all it was decided 
 to change it, and for reasons perhaps as immaterial 
 as the difference between the two words in question. 
 Still, the minority side having been taken, it seems 
 best to state the case. 
 
 A city man, wise in the ways of bread making, 
 was at an old Yankee farmer's house instructing 
 his housekeeper in the best methods of making home- 
 made Boston brown bread, and used the word recipe 
 frequently. The old man was not illiterate, but ex- 
 cessively old-fashioned, and the trisyllable annoyed 
 him past bearing. He laid down the Churchman that 
 he had been reading, and leaned back and listened. 
 Then he took off his glasses. Then he began to re- 
 monstrate. "Oh, don't bring those affected city 
 words among us plain people. 'Recipee,' " he re- 
 peated, with immeasurable contempt. "My parents 
 always said receipt ; my neighbors all say receipt, 
 what would they think of us if we should go among 
 them putting on such airs as that ?' ' 
 
 As I overheard this, and a cutting phillipic which 
 followed, aimed at city affectations in general, my 
 faith in the power of high-sounding recipe to soothe 
 the savage breast was considerably weakened. A long 
 time after, and at a very distant place, a lady school 
 teacher was heard to say: "lam so glad if receipt is 
 the right word instead of recipe ; the latter seems so 
 much like a stranger in a foreign dress among our 
 familiar English words of the same dimensions. 
 When I have taught my pupils to indite and recite, 
 it is troublesome to make them understand that rec- 
 ipe is not to be pronounced that way at all, and then, 
 again, to stop them from making two syllables of 
 ripe, wipe, and pipe." 
 
 This was another blow at the aristocratic trisyllable, 
 but it seemed hard to have to descend from the lofty 
 heights where it prevailed to the level of the com- 
 mon. Fortunately, just at that time, the great house 
 of the Harpers published the most polite cook-book 
 that has yet appeared. It made extreme correctness 
 a special feature. It was typographically perfect. 
 It hyp'henated every cocoanut It split hairs on tea- 
 spoonful. It followed Noah Webster whithersoever 
 he might lead. It was "the glass of fashion and the 
 mould — I mean mold — of form," and with all this it 
 adopted receipt instead of recipe. 
 
 There was no more room for doubt. Higher prece- 
 dent there could not be, and so, if the reader pleases, 
 as far as this column is concerned, we will render 
 unto the doctors the Latin trisyllable which is their, 
 and use only the humbler but safer English receipt. 
 
NOTES TO THE SECOND EDITION, 
 
 The "American Pastry Cook" having met with so 
 much favor that a second edition has become neces- 
 sary, it may perhaps be allowed me to make a state- 
 ment of the simple origin of the book, as much as 
 anything in acknofrledgment of the kind encourage- 
 ment of a great number of frionds who bought un- 
 doubtedly without any thought of using it. All 
 such books, if worth considering at all, have had a 
 motive, either to introduce foreign methods, found 
 a new school of cookery, teach new extremes of or- 
 namentation, or put into practice the theories of 
 great chemists or of new idea doctors — Leibig, 
 Graham, the vegetarians and the like. The <-Oven 
 and Range ' series was not so deliberately planned 
 and if a motive may be claimed in this case it is to 
 make good cooks, such as are always wanted, and 
 to raise the occupation of cooks in America at least 
 to the dignity of a recognized trade. 
 
 When, a good many years ago, I used to find my- 
 self in positions on sea and river, in hotels and re- 
 taurants where the assistants always coming and 
 going were generally willing enough while they 
 stayed, but could not do good work, I began to see 
 the absurdity of knowing what I wanted done and 
 yet being unable to ma'-je others understand, and I 
 began pencilling down weights, measures and direc- 
 tions for Lhem to work by — not pastries alone but a 
 little of everything— and hanging these directions 
 on the nails along with each assistant's portion of 
 the bill of fare for the next meal. All coo? s that 
 are worthy of being called such are emulative and 
 try to excel. They "hit it exactly" in making a 
 dish, sometimes, are highly elated and wish they 
 could always have such "good luck." In my own 
 practice whenever any of us "hit it exactly" I 
 simply penciled dosvnhow it was done, and kept on 
 changing and improving until I was in a great 
 measure independent of the circumstances of the 
 boys "jumping out;" anybody smart enough to 
 work by written directions could make what I told 
 them. These receipts were necessarily plain, and 
 as necessarily correct and reliable, and they were 
 of great value. In course of time there were some 
 hundreds of them and they made a bulky package. 
 Is there any wonder that the thought occurred that 
 they would be more u.seful in print? Is there any 
 need to explain further why the writer has confi- 
 dence in his book ? Those exact and plainly word- 
 ed receipts, with others of course added, form the 
 • Oven and Range" cook books. There has been 
 nothing but pleased surprise, kind words and good 
 
 reports connected with the circulation of the pastry 
 book as far as it has gone already, the anxiety being 
 expressed in numberless instances to obtain more' 
 books of the same sort. The careful plan adopted of 
 making the work reliable in every particular has 
 prevented its being written and finished in haste. 
 
 Little Desserts.— This book has been taken 
 up with avidity by many outside of hotels, seeiiing 
 instructions how to make nice sweet dishes, some 
 of whom seem to think they know all they need to 
 learn of meat cooking when they can broil and fry, 
 but who acknowledge the difficulty that prevails 
 everywhere when well-to-do people ask why they 
 cannot have at least a few of the dainty trifles at 
 their private tables that thoy have enjoyed in such 
 profusion at a few very good hotels. It is, briefly, 
 because pastry-cooking cannot be picked up like 
 meat frying, but must be learned. In order to help 
 the matter I will suggest things to be tried. Let 
 those who would not have pies every day and only 
 pies, practice the difi"erent cream fillings and make 
 all sorts of delectable forms of pastry of them. I 
 have called some of these conserves because the 
 word cream is worked to death. The articles allud- 
 ed to are pineapple creamer conserve, apple cream, 
 orange conserve or tart filling, lemon conserve or 
 lemon honey, transparent pie mixture, cocoanut and 
 lemon pie mixtures, pastry cream or custard, choco- 
 late cream, cheese curd mixtures, and many more 
 that are in the book but which need not be named. 
 Let it be observed that all of the receipts for mak- 
 ing them are perfectly reliable and they can be 
 taken up and used any time without fear of failure. 
 This will be found a perfect little mine of good 
 things. When they are understood make tarts in 
 patty pans of them, then covered tarts, then cheese 
 cakes, apple shortcake. Napoleon cake, Saratoga 
 shortcake, apple turnovers, mince patties, using the 
 difi'crcnt creams or sweets at difi'erent times. Then 
 make the open tarts with meringue on top like 
 lemon pies; make apple shortcakes with meringue 
 or frosting on top or between the layers, and so you 
 can keep on indefinitely. 
 
 Tlien take notice of the fruit charlottes, the apple 
 and peach charlottes and friar's omelet. Since the 
 book has been published I have seen two of the most 
 accomplished French cooks of this part of the 
 country practicing those articles with others from it 
 with evident interest and satisfaction — for it doei 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 not follow because a man is a splendid cook already 
 that he must have practiced everything that is 
 Vnown; we are all still learning or trying some old 
 favorite for the first time. 
 
 Then, attention should be paid to the many 
 varieties of boiled custards in cups. There are 
 tapioca custard, rice, farina, sago, manioca, granula 
 cocoanut, chocolate, caramel, wine, and plain cus- 
 tards flavored. The receipts give you the exact 
 proportions to malte them so that everybody likes 
 them, and they direct you to serve them ice cold. 
 There are custards with whipped cream on top, and 
 with frosting browned over, and custards baked 
 and steamed. Then remember the different dishes 
 made with cake and custard, the floating islands, 
 the gipsey pudding and then the diff'erent ways of 
 making a charlotte russe. 
 
 I write these lines in the interest of people who 
 want nice things on their tables and not caring par- 
 ticularly about the cost wish to know how it is that 
 cooks in general have such a very limited know- 
 ledge of this line of business. As the utmost pains 
 has been bestowed upon the book in the hope to 
 supply this deficiency of knowledge I can do no 
 less than point them and their cooks to these pages. 
 
 Then there are the molded creams, which to know 
 how to make perfectly is a pleasing art in itself; 
 they are the blanc manges, the Bavarian, chocolate, 
 strawberry, Roman and all that line. Most of the 
 finest foreign menus have Bavarian cream in some 
 form or under some name as Bavaroise auzfraises 
 (with strawberries) or au chocolat, or o herwise, 
 and many of the diplomatic and court banquets 
 show the same. They all can be easily made and 
 are simple when once learned. I have always found 
 that something of the sort is highly appreciated at 
 the end of a dinner, particularly whea there is no 
 icecream. 
 
 While claiming to excel in making these creams 
 myself and having made others working under me 
 excel in the same line of articles, I must own that 
 I would not, to use the common expression, touch 
 with a ten-foot pole these so-called creams as they 
 are commonly made by unskillful cooks. But they 
 are served daily in great perfection at a few of the 
 very best Chicago hotels. Everything necessary to 
 be said about them has been set down in the dl 
 rections in the book. 
 
 The puddings alone will furnish a change and 
 variety that may surprise many who try them, and 
 some are so little like pudding they seem to de- 
 serve a finer name. Where all are good it is 
 scarcely fair to single out any, yet, to point the 
 meaning I wi 1 instance the birds-nest pudding as 
 being almost a dish of baked fruit, and, not least, 
 there remain the fritters both plain and with fruit, 
 meringues of cake and Jruit and pastry and fruit, 
 frosted over, and jellies and compotes, and every 
 one who delights in making little desserts is con- 
 
 tinually inventing some new combination. And 
 we have not yet mentioned the ice creams. 
 
 About Whipped Oream — In close con- 
 nection with the Bavarian and Italian creams the 
 pure whipped cream regarded as most delicious 
 among desserts has to be considered. Those creams 
 when genuine are made of pure cream whipped to 
 froth and stiffened with gelatine. 
 
 The amount of gelatine required is only half an 
 ounce to a quart of cream when it is but to fill a 
 charlotte russe, or be a simple cream in a mold, 
 but if strawberry juice and pulp is to be added 
 or maraschino or wine then an ounce to a quart 
 will be needed. If you put pure cream in a deep 
 pan, set it on ice and be at with the wireegg-whisk it 
 will become thick and firm enough to fill small 
 charlottes without anythingaddedat all, except, of 
 course, a little sugar and flavoring, and it will not 
 go down again as long as it is kept cold. 
 
 When the greater firmness is wanted so that it 
 can be turned out of a mold the half-ounce of gel- 
 atine to a quart must be dissolved in a little warm 
 milk and poured into the cream while you are 
 whipping it light. 
 
 But there is so much difficulty in most hotels in 
 getting cream for the pastry cook to use that I 
 have about given up the use of it altogether. It is 
 not always the question of cost that makes the dif- 
 ficulty but the actual scarcity of cream and the 
 greater need for it in other ways than in the pastry, 
 so the receipts for the made creams and charlottes 
 will be found to call for no cream, but use milk in- 
 stead, They can be made so good that the lack of 
 cream is never observed. The difficulty does not 
 so generally exist when parties in private houses 
 are to be given and I advise the use of pure cream 
 when possible, although it is valuable to know how 
 to do without. 
 
 Individual Oharlotte-Russe.— A favorite 
 little dainty of this sort is sold at the city confec- 
 tioneries that is made in a paper case, size and 
 shape of a common tin cup of the half pint size. A 
 sheet of sponge cake is baked on paper, taken oflF 
 and cut in pieces that will just fit inside the cases, 
 a bottom piece is put in and then the charlotte is 
 filled with a spoontnl of whipped cream, sweetened 
 and flavored but whipped up without gelatine. 
 But they are made for fine parties in paper cases of 
 the shape of small tumblers, wider at top than at 
 bottom so that they can be taken out of the 
 case when served, as the pattern with straight- 
 up sides cannot. These are lined with either cake 
 or lady fingers, but Im give them firmness enough 
 to be removed from the cases a little gelatine has 
 to be added to the pure cream, as explained in the 
 note about whipped cream. 
 
 But another way most suitable of all when these 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 3 
 
 little charlottes are to be served at ball suppers, as 
 they can be held in gloved fingers, is to make them 
 in handsome ornamented paper cases, size of small 
 tumblers which may be bought ready made for the 
 purpose in some places or otherwise can be made of 
 fine unruled paper at home. The lining may be 
 sometimes of white cake and another time of yel- 
 low, and either pure whipped cream or any of the 
 made creams can be used for filling. The same 
 sort of charlottes are held in high favor at hotel 
 dinners when they are formed in deep muflBn rings 
 without bottoms, kept very cold and slipped out 
 of the rings when served. I have practiced that 
 more than any other way. A cup of pure thick 
 cream when whipped fills about eight of these small 
 charlottes, so that a calculation can be made of 
 how much will be required. 
 
 Individual Puddings.— It is the practice in 
 all the best hotels to serve the puddings in individ- 
 ual forms. In the receipts in this book it will be 
 found that the baked puddings are all directed to 
 be cooked first by boiling the main ingredients to- 
 gether then adding the eggs and then to be baked 
 only a short time. This baking is done in white 
 bowls that hold from a cupful to a pint and the 
 puddings are served in the same bowl set in a plate 
 and an individual pitcher of sauce with it, if the 
 pudding needs a sauce, for family dinners granite 
 ware or tin dishes are in use with an outside silver- 
 plated dish to hold it and a plated ring to drop 
 over and cover the rim. Custard puddings, mac- 
 aroon, brandy, cabinet and a number of others de- 
 scribed in the book can be cooked in the cups and 
 then turned out in the saucers to serve. Boiled or 
 steamed puddings can be cooked in individual tin 
 molds and turned out on saucers. 
 
 An improved way of cooking steamed apple roll 
 and other fruit puddings of the same sort is prac- 
 ticed in places where the steaming facilities are 
 good. The pudding is not a roll at all and no 
 cloth is used, but a crust rolled out is laid on the 
 bottom of a pan, then a layer of chopped apples, 
 another crust, more apples and a third crust on top, 
 then it is set in the steamer, cut out slices or 
 squares. It is but little trouble and does just as 
 well. A light dough made with plenty of baking 
 powder and no shortening whatever is employed in 
 some of the paying restaurants for steamed apple 
 roll. 
 
 Ices. — Let none be deceived about the ices in 
 this book because they are offered without the im. 
 poseiveness of tremendous French names. There is 
 no finer assortment of ices known than these in the 
 following pages. The changes and combinations 
 possible with them are practically endless and one 
 who is master of them need have no fear of ever 
 "getting left ' in a competitive trial. It is hard to 
 
 say in such matters as these exactly where old pat- 
 terns are departed from and originality begins. It 
 is true, however, that these are all newly adap. 
 ted to hotel use being on the whole an invention of 
 a set of ways of serving a magnificent array of ices in 
 places where the resort to molds and brick shapes- 
 was not possible with the small number of hands 
 employed and perhaps the comparative scarcity of 
 ice. I keep up a constant run of novelties by serv- 
 ing two kinds at once in the same saucer or glass 
 and making ices of almost every kind of sweet and 
 fruity material. In order to do this without mak- 
 ing incongruous mixtures less acceptable than com- 
 mon ice cream the greatest care and skill must be 
 exercised both in compounding, coloring and freez- 
 ing. Even if we make the o'd foreign favorites 
 they have to be supplied with plainer names for 
 hotel bills of fare. Take for instance "tutti-frutti;" 
 when the hotel keeper has ice cream provided he of 
 course wants the guests to know it and get the good 
 of it, but not one in a hundred of them that come to 
 hotels knows what tutti-frutti is by that name, and 
 much disappointment may be felt on that account. 
 I would not be understood as advising the use 
 of even the terms attached in this book to the sev- 
 eral combinations. That is a matter of indiflfer- 
 ence. When you have two fancy ices at once, per- 
 haps a pale green grape ice and a deep colored 
 frozen custard call it ice cream in the style of your 
 hotel or of some other famous one. In regard to 
 the tutti-frutti receipt in the book it ought perhaps 
 to be said that the outer coating of orange ice is 
 not necessary for common dinners, it is an extra 
 touch for a mold or bombe. This sort of frozen 
 pudding can be dished out of ■^he freezer with or 
 without a white ice like a frozen sauce at the side. 
 The sense of some of these extras is never appar- 
 ent until you have a table decorated with crystal, 
 china and flowers to supply. The best workmen 
 after they have made the three creams or fruit 
 ices for Neapolitan and frozen them in brick- 
 shaped or Neapolitan molds take them out a good 
 while before dinner time, wrap each form after it 
 is taken out of the mold in manilla paper and put 
 them in a large freezer well packed with ice and 
 salt and keep them there frozen and dry until they 
 are wanted. This saves hurry and melting by 
 handling while dinner is going on. Line your 
 brick molds with manilla paper, or at least the 
 bottom and top, before putting in the ice cream. 
 It is easier to take the cream out and also makes 
 the lids fit tighter. 
 
 Bread. — A good deal of wholesome enthusiasm 
 has been evoked by the contents of the "book of 
 breads;" the slight drawback has been that those 
 who followed out the proper method of wording 
 the dough have been surprised by their bread be- 
 coming too light; that is of being ready to bake 
 
TEE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 before they believed it could be and before they 
 were ready for it. It is stated in the directions 
 that under proper methods the dough needs no 
 coaxing, no setting under the stove, it will rise al- 
 most anywhere. A hint may be ta^.en from the 
 management of Vienna bread, the dough for which 
 is made light once, then well kneaded, made into 
 loaves, cut across tlie tops and baked very soon 
 after without being allowed to get much proof or 
 rising in the loaf shape. It is put into an oven 
 that is very hot at first but bui t with a low roof so 
 that the bread crowded in fills the oven with steam 
 in which the baking is finished. Ovens not spe- 
 cially built for Vienna bread have a steam pipe 
 leading into the oven to serve the same purpose, 
 and rotary ovens have wet bricks thrown into the 
 fire to fill the oven with steam. However interest- 
 ing the subject it will generally be found too much 
 tfouble to make stock yeast in very small houses, 
 but a starting may be obtained from some 
 friendly ba'Acr or else dry yeast cakes must be 
 used to start the ferment. An attempt to do too 
 much is very apt to end in weariness. But alj 
 pastry cooks ought to make stock sometimes, to 
 keep in practice, even if they are using the com- 
 pressed in a regular way. 
 
 Attention is particularly called to the method 
 in this book of taking a piece of light dough from 
 the rolls or bread to make various light fancy 
 breads, muffins, waffles and the like. It not only 
 makes the directions short and plain but makes it 
 easy to turn out a great variety with but little ex- 
 tra trouble over common bread. One setting of 
 sponge does for everything. 
 
 Plain Covered Pies- — It has happened sev- 
 eral times during the introduction of the first 
 edition that I have had to bear unfavorable com- 
 ments upon the pies and pastries of some gener- 
 ally good workmen, in the form of a hope by the 
 steward, clerk, or proprietor, as the case has hap- 
 pened to be, that the book would give them a hint 
 to make the old fashioned covered pies, and not 
 the heavy and greasy ones they were making. It 
 is much to be feared that our book has fal'en short 
 of its duty in this particular; still it has been said 
 over and over that pufF paste is not good unless it 
 is perfect or nearly so. Sonic kitchens and pastry 
 rooms are so hot it is impossible to make fine paste 
 in them, and, after all, the greater number of peo- 
 ple are as well or better pleased with good short 
 paste. Take two cups of lard to seven cups of 
 flour — or a pound of shortening to two pounds of 
 flour and a little salt and rub them together dry, 
 wet them with ice water, mix up and give the 
 lump of paste two or three rollings in order to 
 make it fla'-^y. The same sort of paste but moi'e 
 crisp and dry can be made with suet chopped ex- 
 tremely fine, weighing or otherwise making sure 
 
 that you have enough. But when suet is used it 
 will be found best to mix up with water slightly warm 
 that the suet may be soft enough to spread and be 
 flaky under the rolling-pin, and then let the paste 
 stand in a cold place until wanted. Good cooking 
 apples and other pie fruits can be put in the pie 
 raw and a little sugar sprinkled over, then a top 
 crust put on. These after all, are the real American 
 pies; our open pies with fine high puff pate edges 
 are tourtes, flans and vols-au vent. 
 
 Strawberry Shortcake. — Some dissatisfac- 
 tionhas been expressed at the strawberry shortcaRe 
 question being left in this book in an unsettled 
 condition. But it is a fact as everybody knows 
 that when strawberries first come in all the con" 
 fectioners' windows display different kinds of straw" 
 berry shortcake that are anything but the true ar' 
 tide, being sometimes squares of sweet cake with 
 strawberries on top and whipped white of egg 
 on that — as little like the proper thing as it possi- 
 bly can be. I have no hesitation now in saying 
 these are all wrong and the only genuine article is 
 made as I was schooled into making it myself years 
 ago by the wife of the present Secretary of the In. 
 terior, one of the most critical judges of cookery, 
 as she is herself one of the most accomplished 
 cooks among all the ladies in the land. 
 
 Make the short paste as directed in the preced- 
 ing note for covered pies, only using fresh butter 
 to rub in the flour instead of lard. Roll out nearly 
 as thick as for biscuits, place on jelly cake pans 
 and bake. Cover the strawberries with powdered 
 sugar in a bowl and shake them up to mix. Split 
 the short cake, spread strawberries on both halves 
 and place one on top of the other. There will be 
 strawberries, of course, on top as well as between. 
 Serve a pitcher of cold sweet cream at the side. 
 There should not be baking powder or any other 
 sort of rising in this cake but the cold butter alone, 
 which makes it light enough. 
 
 City and Country Pastry Cooks.— Hay- 
 ing paid attention in the foregoing notes to some 
 things that they in the front of the house have said, 
 it is in turn to mention that some pastry cooks 
 claim that it takes a much smarter man to be a first- 
 class pastry cook or meat cook either in a country ho- 
 tel or a hotel in any small city than it does in a per- 
 fectly fitted-up great house in New York or Chica- 
 go. It is argued with perfect justice that in these 
 great establishments one man does but one set of 
 duties within certain hours and has everything 
 properly ada ted for his use, and such a one could not 
 begin to do as well as the general pastry cook in 
 the ordinary hotels of small cities does with all the 
 deficiencies and disadvantages he has to contend 
 with. This thing properly considered by employ- 
 ers would often save them the disappointments 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 they experience when, thinking they will be made 
 up and get their work done right, they send for a 
 pastry cook from the big city and find that he 
 either cannot or will not try to get along when 
 they have got him. The young men that have 
 learned and practiced only one department of hote^ 
 cooking are not the ones that give satisfaction in 
 small houses. The pastry cooks of these houses 
 have to invent their own ways, and learn to do 
 splendid work under conditions that would make 
 the others afraid to take hold and try. On account 
 of his thus becoming used to adapting himself to 
 the place, the oven, and the utensils the chances 
 are much better for getting a great variety of first- 
 class pastry work from an active, interested, gen- 
 eral pastry cook who has learned in hotels of med- 
 ium size than from those under the steady routine 
 of the great caravansaries Hotel keepers should 
 encourage the training of pastry cooks in their 
 own ways in their own houses, as there are no 
 other places for them to learn general work in. 
 
 About Ovens. — Brick ovens are indisputably 
 the best for hotels, yet, because they are not very 
 often met with, when one is put in, the pastry 
 cook who has been used to baking in a portable 
 sheet iron oven or a range or stove, finds it awk- 
 ward to begin the new way. Good pie baking can 
 be done in the portable ovens for they will bake on 
 the bottom, and good use can be made of the top of 
 the fire box to boil jelly and stew fruit when room 
 on the range is not to be had, but still they are 
 Very imperfect; they scorch the bread on one side, 
 they are entirely unsuitable for baking cake and 
 will not keep anything hot without drying the bot- 
 tom and sweating the top. There is an immense 
 number of them in use, although many pastry 
 cools' s and bakers will not work with them at all. 
 The same money that buys them would build a 
 brick oven. Every town has one or more bricklayers 
 or builders who can build an oven, and some have 
 a specialty in that line. It will cost from forty or 
 fifty dollars upwards to a hundred and fifty or 
 more for an ordinary oven. The patent rotary 
 ovens run from five hundred to fifteen hundred 
 dollars. They are for the largest establishments. 
 The floor rotates over the fire, the heat comes up 
 through a hole or hub in the center and around the 
 circumference, the door is rarely closed but the ar- 
 ticles put in as the bottom passes the door are car, 
 ried around and, if small, when they come to the 
 door again they are done. Revolving ovens carry 
 the shelves and pans up and down, baking all over 
 alike. Common ovens are of two patterns. The 
 simplest and cheapest has no furnace but the fire is 
 made in the oven itself, on the floor, and when hot 
 enough the oven is raked out and mopped clean 
 and the articles put in. Only one heat at a time 
 can be had and the things that need the most heat 
 
 go in first, then the bread, after that the cakes. 
 The other sort has a furnace at the side, the heat 
 goes into the oven on its way to the chimney hole 
 in the top. It may be known when the oven is hot 
 and where the cool corners are by the smoke that 
 blackens it all over when the fire is first made but 
 disappears and leaves the bricks white when they 
 are hot. When you have an oven built be careful 
 to stipulate for a good bed of sand under the tile 
 bottom. It holds heat and is essential to the mak- 
 ing of a good oven. After a few days practice one 
 who has not been used to an ovon learns how long 
 before it is wanted the fire must be started to heat 
 it, and learns by the feel and by the appearance of 
 the inside when it is at the right heat for any pur- 
 pose. 
 
 Jelly Roll — On account of the common diffi- 
 culty of getting blank paper to use I have done my 
 part towards abolishing the need of it by baking 
 sheets of sponge on baking pans without paper. 
 Very few, however, can manage it quickly enough 
 and the cake dries and breads. Newspapers can 
 not be used for the purpose because they are apt 
 to leave the news of the day impressed on the cake 
 in printing ink. Either thin manilla or blank news 
 paper should be furnished to the pastry room. 
 
 By Weight and Measure. — It pays to have 
 scales and be exact. The pastry cook does not 
 want the pudding to come out soft and slop ove** 
 the saucers, nor the lemon pie to be soft and run 
 off the crust, so he throws in a lot more eggs if he 
 cooks by guess, because he knows they [[will cook 
 solid and dry it up. Or, he wants another pud- 
 ding to be soft and mellow and he throws in a lot 
 more butter, knowing that will prevent it being 
 dry and tough. But in most cases the extra eggs 
 used only to make sure of a doubt do more harm 
 than good, and the softness, like custard, that is 
 wanted can be produced better by adding water or 
 milk than by butter. The whole course of guess 
 work cooking is full of errors. The objection that 
 weighing takes up too much time must bo met by 
 placing scales and weights in a position where they 
 are always ready for instant use, on a little shel^ 
 nailed up about breast high at the back or end o^ 
 the pastry table. Spring balances are of no use be. 
 cause they will not weigh by ounces. Common 
 scales with common iron weights are by all odds 
 the best, for graded beams take too much attention 
 lo find small quantities. The scales onee placed in 
 easy reach there is nothing more needed to be done 
 to get them into use, for the pastry cook is too glad 
 to have "a dead sure thing" on whatever he does, 
 and no failures, to neglect the weighing that is 
 made easy. There are certain proportions of ingred- 
 ients in every article that make it so good it is im- 
 possible for it to be made any better — even in common 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 things lilte batter cakes and biscuits — and no person 
 living can guess them and be always up to the high- 
 est mark. 
 
 Oup and Spoon Measure. 
 
 Cooks who go to places where there are no scales 
 to use will find the following table useful. 
 
 A CUP — Means the common size of white coffee 
 cup generally used in hotels, that holds half a 
 pint. 
 
 Water — "A pint is a pound all the world round" 
 and the standard, A cup being ^ pint is therefore 8 
 ounces. 
 
 Milk, vinegar and most fluids same as water. 
 
 Molasses — A cup holds 12 ounces a basting 
 spoon 2 ounces. Thin syrups do not weigh so 
 heavy. 
 
 Eqos — A cup of eggs broken is the same ae 5 
 
 eggs- 
 
 Yolks — A cup holds 13 yolks — ^ pound. 
 
 Whites — A cup holds 9 whites — ^ pound. 
 
 Whole eggs — 10 average a pound. When you 
 have a bowl of yolks or whites left over weigh or 
 measure and you will know how many there are. 
 
 Butter — A cup of butter is 7J ounces if pressed 
 in solid. It is near enough generally to call 2 cups 
 butter a pound, either pressed in or melted. 
 
 Lard — Same as butter. 
 
 Suet — Minced suet a cup is 4 ounces. 
 
 Chocolate — Grated cold chocolate a cup is 3 
 ounces. 
 
 Sugar — A level cup of granulated sugar is 7 
 ounces. Although sugar by the grain is heavier 
 than water the air spaces make it measure lighter. 
 A rounded cup is ^ pound Fine icing sugar a cup 
 is but 6 ounces, dry yellow the same. All the 
 sugar that can be scooped up out of a barrel with a 
 cup weighs 9 ounces. 
 
 Bread Crumbs — A cup of bread pressed in rath- 
 er sold is 4 ounces. A pound is a pressed-in quart 
 
 Flour — A level cup of flour is 4 ounces. A cup 
 heaped up with all that can be dipped with it out 
 of a barrel weighs 7 ounces, nearly twice the level 
 full. A quart of flour just rounded over is a pound. 
 
 Corn-meal — A cup of corn-meal is 5 ounces, 8 
 
 rounded cups are a pound. A pound is a little less 
 than a level quart. 
 
 Oatmeal — A level cup is 6 ounces. All that can 
 be dipped up with a cup weighs 7 ounces — nearly ^ 
 pound. 3 cups water cooks 1 cup oatmeal. 
 
 Rice — A level cup weighs 7 ounces. All that 
 can be heaped iu a cup weighs 9 ounces. 3 cups 
 water cooks 1 cup rice. 
 
 Corn starch — A level cup 3f cooking starch is 6 
 ounces. All that can be heaped in a cup weighs 7 
 ounces. 4 cups milk cooks 1 cup starch. 
 
 Farina — Same as starch. 
 
 Tapioca — Same as rice. 
 
 Light bread dough — A rounded cup of dough 
 weighs from 6 to 8 ounces according to lightness — 
 3 cups are a pound. 1 pound makes 10 or 12 rolls- 
 
 Raisins — A heaped cup without stems is 8 ounces. 
 A pound without stems about fills a quart. 
 
 Currants — A heaped cup dry weighs 6 ounces 
 
 Ground coffee — A heaping cup is 4 ounces — it 
 makes 2 quarts of coffee. 
 
 Tea — A heaping cup is 2 ounces — it makes 4 
 quarts of tea. 
 
 Oysters — A cup holds a dozen selects or 2 dozen 
 small. 
 
 A basting-spoon — Six basting-spoons of liquid 
 fill a cup. It holds about 1^ ounces of melted but- 
 ter or lard, same as size of an egg, and 2 ounces of 
 thick molassess. 
 
 A TABLE-SPOON — 14 tiffics quitc full is a cup or J 
 pint. 2 tablespoons butter is 1 ounce, melted. A 
 heaping tablespoon of sugar is 1 ounce, 6 or 7 fill a 
 cup. A heaping tablespoon of starch is 1 ounce, 4 
 will fill a cup — starch can be heaped so much high- 
 er than sugar. A moderately heaped tablespoon of 
 flour is 1 ounce, 3 will fill a cup if fully heaped. 
 
 A TEA-SPOON — Is ^ a tablespoon. It is near 
 enough in most cases to call a teaspoonful ^ ounce 
 of dry articles rounded up, not including ground 
 coffee or tea. 
 
 Apples — 4 average a pound — they lose a third 
 by paring. 
 
 Butter -Size of an egg is anything from 1 to 2 
 ounces. 
 
 There are 16 cups in a gallon. 
 
 A common wooden pail holds 2J gallons or 10 
 quarts or 40 cups. 
 
 Bisque Ice Creams — Sometimes called biscuit ices 
 in bills of fare are those which have a paste o* 
 fruit or nuts mixed wiih the cream. Bisque of 
 pineapple i^ one of the favorite varieties, the 
 ilirections for making it are at Nos. 107 and 93- 
 Another example U the bisque of nuts of any 
 J:ind at No. 95, and preserved or candied ginger 
 
 makes another. There should be bils of the 
 minced fruit found in the ice to show what it is, 
 and that it is not mere'y flavored. 
 
 Italian bisque has lady fingers crumbled and 
 moistened in wine, mixed in ice cream the same 
 way. Nesselrode Ice Pudding and Diplomatic Ice 
 Pudding will be found at Nos. 689 and 690. 
 
NOTES TO THE FOURTH EDITION, 
 
 Tortillas. — It would be most gratifying to me 
 if these books should grow to be so comprehen- 
 sivelj American as to include the best of the 
 cookerj of all the various peoples on the conti- 
 nent. To learn all that is charcteristic in the 
 cookery of Mexico without departing from my 
 rule of never putting anything into a book that I 
 had not previously performed myself by the 
 measures and directions given I should have to 
 go through the experience of a correspondent, a 
 former Chicago chef, and visit the principal cities 
 of that country. He says : 
 
 " In looking over your American Pastry 
 Cook I particularly noticed No. 626 (Tortillas) 
 which I find is a mistake. I have spent the past 
 two years in Old Mexico, most of the time as 
 proprietor of the Eating House at San Juan del 
 Rio, about 125 miles from the City of Mexico, 
 and have seen Tortillas made in all the principal 
 cities in Mexico and at no place do they use corn 
 meal or boiling water, as there is not, nor never 
 has been, such a thing as corn meal in Mexico, 
 only such as came from the United States to 
 Americans located there. The way they do make 
 Tortillas is as follows : Corn is soaked in water 
 24 hours, then it is laid on a rock and rubbed 
 with another rock shaped something like a rolling 
 pin till it forms a paste, then it is made into flat 
 cakes like a hotel pancake, only thin as a wafer, 
 which are made by being patted between the 
 hands to the proper size, then are baked on hot 
 coals. As a proof of the above recipe I refer you 
 to any one in Mexico." 
 
 My friend " Al " Rutherford is right, of course. 
 Still my Mexican said just what is printed about 
 him. Knowing that a tortilla is a corn cake, he 
 was content to call a corn cake a tortilla without 
 caring much about the different method of mak- 
 ing. Here is a still more particular description 
 written by Fannie Brigham Ward to the Spring- 
 field Republican : 
 
 " A Mexican kitchen is a study, and to do it 
 and all its queer utensils justice would require a 
 column's space. There are no cooking stoves in 
 Mexico, or even anything like the fire-places of 
 our grandmothers' days. One side of the room 
 was occupied by a sort of shelf, built into the 
 wall, about breast high, in the center of which a 
 small wood fire, i? kept burning. 
 
 " There is no wood here which a New England 
 housewife would consider fit to burn — only the 
 
 gnarled and twisted branches of mountain trees, 
 and around a little heap of these the earthen 
 cooking pots are ranged. If the family is small, 
 sometimes this smoky process is improved upon 
 by building a charcoal fire in a large earthen pot 
 and setting the smaller cooking vessels within it. 
 In many houses a mud oven is built at one end of 
 this shelf, or somewhere out of doors. To heat 
 the oven a fire must be built inside of it, and the 
 entrance closed with a hot stone. However, as 
 baked food — ' pies an' things,' according to the 
 Englishman's advertisement — enter not into the 
 household economy, an oven is altogether a super- 
 fluous luxury. 
 
 " In the center of the kitchen stands its most im- 
 portant factor, the metate, for tortilla-making. It 
 is a hollowed stone, the size of an ordinary bread 
 bowl, having two stone legs, about six inches 
 high, at one end, which inclines it at an angle of 
 45 degrees. The tortilla-maker kneels on the dirt 
 floor at the elevated end of the metate, and, the 
 corn having been previously boiled in weak lye, 
 and still quite wet, she crushes it into paste with 
 a stone rolling-pin, the mixture gradually sliding 
 down the inclined plane into a dish placed to re- 
 ceive it. When a quantity has been thus crushed, 
 it is rolled into balls and left until required. It is 
 astonishing what an amount of corn a family of 
 srdinary size will consume in a day, in the form 
 of tortillas, the Mexican ' staff of life.' 
 
 " When a meal is on the tapis, the last act in the 
 drama — the tragedy, we feel inclined to say, 
 when suffering the after pangs of indigestion — is 
 to heat the griddle, or more commonly a smooth 
 flat stone. Then the cook takes a very small 
 lump at once of the prepared corn paste and 
 shapes it into thin round cakes, with a little water 
 and much loud spatting of the hands, with a 
 sound exactly like spanking babies. The cakes 
 are then baked brown in a jiffy, and, as a substi- 
 tute for bread, one might go further and fare a 
 great deal worse than subsist on tortillas. 
 
 " Whatever else American housekeepers may 
 find worthy of imitation in Mexican methods, I 
 am sure that dish- washing, as that disagreeable 
 duty is practiced here, will not be one of them. 
 The Mexican dish-washer does not bother with a 
 table and thereby saves her arms from scrubbing 
 and her legs from standing — but seats herself 
 serenely on the floor beside a pail of hot or cold 
 water. She has no soap, but a little sliced amole 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 root makes a strong •■ and cleaner suds, and in 
 lieu of a dishcloth she ases a tiny broom-brush 
 like our smallest whisk brushes. 
 
 "The only disagreeable suggestion about it is 
 that these dish brooms are exactly like those used 
 to brush hair — from the 'head of the family' 
 down to that of the humblest criado (there are 
 few combs used in Mexico) — and the fear will in- 
 trude that those brooms may sometimes get 
 'mixed,' like Buttercup's babies! The dishes 
 are never viiped, but are turned up to dry, some- 
 times in a tray or on an adobe shelf, but generally 
 on the hard dirt floor leaned against the wall. 
 Strange to say they always come to the table clean 
 and shining. The brass spoons and steel-bladed 
 knives are kept bright enough to see your face 
 in, though no bath-bricks or patent soaps are em- 
 ployed in their polishing — nothing but pure un- 
 adulterated dirt. The servant, whose duty it is> 
 takes them out of doors, kneels upon the ground, 
 dips up a little fresh earth, and, holding the knife 
 or spoon firmly on a stone, polishes at her leisure. 
 Despite dirt floors and the absence of all those 
 conveniences which we consider indispensable, I 
 have never yet seen an untidy kitchen in Mexico. 
 Everything is kept as bright and fresh as hands 
 and amole can make it, even to the cooking pot- 
 tery, which is of necessity smoked black when- 
 ever used. If we could combine their innate 
 neatness with our improved methods the result 
 would be that cleanliness which we are told is 
 * akin to godliness.' " 
 
 that the foreigners would not recognize it. The 
 real Turkish sherbet is nothing but fruit juice 
 and water, only mixed with sugar when the acid- 
 ity af the fruit makes it requisite. Turkish lemon 
 sherbet is simply lemonade, and all other fruits 
 are used in the same way. What we call water- 
 ices are the real sherbets frozen ; both names are 
 proper for them and there is no room for a dis- 
 pute. On the other hand the French apply the 
 name sorbet to sherbets which have liquors added 
 to them; sorbet an kirsh is kirschwasser punch 
 frozen and so on through the list of punches. It 
 is easy therefore to find authority for almost any- 
 thing in this line of goods with changeable names> 
 for there is no ultimate authority at present to 
 refer to. The popular understanding of the 
 meaning of a term establishes it in each different 
 country. 
 
 A CORRESPONDENT having experience of life 
 in Mexican hotels says the first thing to be done 
 while there, according to the custom of the coun- 
 try, is to " take " coffee — and if by any series of 
 howls and poundings you can attract the atten- 
 tion of a servant, there being no bells, the uni- 
 versal light morning repast, called desagmio^ will 
 be served in your room without extra charge. 
 Nothing more substantial can be had " for love 
 or money" before noon. It consists of a small 
 loaf of Mexican bread (resembling a cannon ball), 
 minus butter, accompanied by only a small cup 
 of coffee or chocolate. Should you be so un- 
 reasonable as to require a couple of eggs, they 
 may be obtained for a small consideration from 
 the astonished host, who marvels within himself 
 at the greediness of " Los Americanos." 
 
 Sherbets. — In regard to disputes which spring 
 up touching the propriety of the names of certain 
 compounds it is necessary to take into considera- 
 tion that the English, French, and Americans, 
 too, have in many cases taken up a foreign name 
 and applied to something slightly like the foreign 
 original, but so changed to suit their own fancies 
 
 Ice Cups and Compound Ices. — The many 
 friends who have assured me that they found this 
 book a perfect mine of good things will not now, 
 I am sure, suspect me of undue egotism, when I 
 assert that a number of the compound ices have 
 never been surpassed in points of luxury or orna- 
 ment, and, if used in connection with the ice cups 
 No. 1 1 8, they afford specialties for any occasion 
 of which any one may be proud. These ice cups 
 have been adopted by some experts in London, 
 as a new thing and a few bills of fare of fine hotels 
 in this country have " ice cups " called by the 
 name of the hotel. I wish all my readers to get 
 the full benefit of all the recipes that have been 
 perfected for them with an amount of experi- 
 mental labor that might seem to them incredible 
 if told. 
 
 Cooking in the Mountains.— When I first 
 went to work in a very elevated town in the 
 Rocky Mountains, at over 10,000 feet above sea 
 level, I shared in the common surprise and per- 
 plexity of all novices in that region of finding that 
 many old recipes wouldn't work and times and du- 
 rations of cooking processes were somehow disar- 
 ranged. Without wishing to encourage the telling 
 of marvelous stories about small variations, it has 
 to be conceded that it is more difficult to cook vege- 
 tables well done and to boil beef tender there 
 than at the common levels and the most difficulty 
 was found in making good cake. All the cus- 
 tomary cake mixtures were too rich, they were 
 all too light and after rising too much in the oven 
 the cakes invariably went down again, dark and 
 sticky, some of the cakes directed to be made 
 with ammonia or baking powder or with whipped 
 whites of eggs to make them light, would rise 
 and run over, but if those raising materials were 
 left out the cakes came out just right and light 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 enough. Still that did not meet the difficulty in 
 many cases. People to w horn I tell it, but who 
 have never experimented for themselves, do not 
 want to believe that it was the sugar that needed 
 to be changed in proportions — they will stiffen 
 the cake with more flour or reduce the butter or 
 eggs. But after testing it thoroughly I found that 
 by leaving out a quarter of the sugar, good cake 
 could be made at the highest point inhabited by 
 man. The cakes were not as sweet and rich, of 
 course, as if made by the full pound recipes, but 
 they could be relied upon to be good in all other 
 respects. Most of the cake recipes in this book 
 are constructed on the knowledge that sugar in 
 excess causes the most failures in cake baking 
 and fourteen ounces are named instead of a pound. 
 But at the level of the sea the full pound can be 
 used, if wished. It is useful to know which of 
 the ingredients causes the trouble when there 
 *v any. 
 
 Gauffres, Waffles and Wafer Caisses. — In 
 reply to requests for further information about 
 the copper patty case frier shown on page 59: It 
 should be bent over so as to hang on the edge of 
 the saucepan of lard and rest there without hold- 
 ing. The copper head need not be solid, but is 
 better if hollow. At the New Orleans Exposi- 
 tion some waffle bakers had a booth where they 
 fried a crisp sort of waffle or wafer, as is described 
 on page 59 for cases, having their waffle irons or 
 coppers as large around as a saucer, shaped indeed 
 like a round border mould such as is shown on 
 page 76, and having long handles bent over to 
 rest on the edge of the frying kettle. They dipped 
 the irons in cake batter, let them fry in hot fat 
 and took off the wafer when done and dusted it 
 with powdered sugar. The price they put upon 
 their waffle irons was $15 per pair, but offered to 
 sell to hotels at $10. It is not known how low 
 they would really have sold them, if anybody 
 had really wanted to buy. The cook who cannot 
 obtain these utensils can get along very well for 
 small caisses by merely dipping common tin patty 
 pans of any shape in batter — the outsides only — 
 dropping them in a kettle of hot lard and letting 
 fry till light brown and crisp. Take off the shell 
 of batter and dip the patty pans again. 
 
 New Pudding Material. — Cerealine is a new 
 starchy substance made of Indian corn. A strong 
 effort has been made to introduce it to general 
 use, and much money spent in advertising, but 
 with doubtful success. The article is good, but 
 so much like corn starch and so little better than 
 any of the other pudding materials that nobody 
 feels the need of it. It is, in the packages, pre- 
 cisely like the white mealy part of popped corn. 
 It cooks quickly like starch, and can be used in 
 the same way as starch, farina and corn meal. 
 Manioca is another article, not new, yet but little 
 known, which is one of the most desirable pud- 
 ding materials. It is a fine tapioca, and not fine 
 rice, and makes the most delicate of puddings 
 used in the same manner as sago and pearl ta- 
 pioca. 
 
 A FEW corrections and substiirutions of new 
 or improved recipes for old ones have been made 
 for this edition. I have been careful, however, not 
 to change or disturb any of the special features of 
 the book, which have been the means of bringing 
 me so many kind and enthusiastic letters. 
 
 An Invitation. — All cooks, pastry cooks, con- 
 fectioners and bakers who execute ornamental 
 pieces, which they would like to preserve in a 
 picture, are respectfully invited to send photo- 
 graphs of them to me to be engraved and inserted 
 in the next edition of whichever of these books 
 shall be reissued first thereafter. My latest pub- 
 lished book, " Cooking for Profit," contains a de- 
 partment for artistic cookery in which are pictures 
 of two prize pieces, one of which took the first prize 
 at the French Cooks' Exhibition in Paris, the other 
 won a gold medal in London. It seems unfor- 
 tunate that of all the fine pieces exhibited by the 
 cooks at their annual banquets in New York and 
 other cities, and of all the elaborate work done 
 for public and private parties so little is ever seen 
 by those outside who could best appreciate its ar- 
 tistic merits. It is earnestly desired that a collec- 
 tion of pictures of such work may be made, and 
 as new issues of these books are made at least 
 once a year, it affords an opportunity to the artists 
 to place their work in a permanent form to be a 
 source of interest to many readers and of pride 
 to themselves. J, W. 
 
 The Scotch Haggis. — We are Indebted to Mrs. 
 Black, of the Glasgow School of Cookery, for the 
 following, which may be considered an authentic 
 recipe for the famous Caledonian dish : 
 
 One sheep's pluck, a sheep's stomach, ^ lb. 
 suet, I onion, yi lb. oatmeal, pepper and salt. 
 Procure a sheeps pluck and stomach-bag ; wash 
 the pluck well, and put it on in a pot to boil, 
 allowing the windpipe to hang out of the pot so 
 
 that any impurities will come out by it, boil 
 gently from one and a half to two hours. Get 
 the stomach bag nicely cleaned by the butcher ; 
 wash It thoroughly in cold water and bring it to 
 the boil, which will cause the bag to contract. 
 Take it out of the pot immediately, wash and 
 scrape it well, and lay it in the salt and water un- 
 til needed. Mince the best part of the lungs and 
 the heart, leaving o\|t all gristly parts ; grate the 
 
lO 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY pOOK. 
 
 best parts of the liver, and put all in a large basin. 
 Toast well the oatmeal, and add It to the contents 
 of the basin. Chop the suet very finely, add a 
 middling-sized onion very finely chopped up, two 
 teaspoonsful of salt and a teaspoonful of pepper, a 
 breakfast cup of the liquor in which the pluck 
 was boiled, to moisten, and mix the whole. Now 
 take up the stomach-bag, keep the fat or smooth 
 side inside, and fill it up, but not quite full ; sew 
 up the opening, and put it in boiling water to boil 
 gently for three hours. Prick the haggis several 
 times with a darning-needle to prevent it from 
 sticking to the bottom of the pot. 
 
 Wanted a Substitute.— A man in B— , Ills., 
 said recently that he would pay me a hundred 
 and fifty dollars if I could show him how to 
 make ice cream without using cream that 
 would be as good as real cream and that would 
 beat up as well. He did not make the offer to 
 me direct, but a young man from Iowa, a 
 strong partizan of my books, who told him that 
 he could get the information in the American 
 Pastry Cook at a much lower price. The man 
 of B — did. not want it that way, however, but 
 wanted to pay a hundred and fifty dollars for 
 some reason or other, and my young man ought 
 to have been bolder, stayed with him, shown 
 him how and collected the money on the spot, 
 but he hesitated and referred the matter to me. 
 Undoubtedly, the B — man is quite right. He is 
 in the ice cream business, and the knowledge 
 he seeks will be worth a hundred and fifty 
 dollars, and he ought to pay it, and if he is a 
 man of his word, after he has read this article 
 and tried my directions, he may please send 
 his hundred and fifty dollars right straight to 
 the office, where I will duly acknowledge the 
 receipt with the customary thanks and a hope 
 to receive further favors. 
 
 It will be supposed that a man, who is anx- 
 ious to pay a hundred and fifty dollars for a 
 substitute for cream, has no motive but to use 
 a cheap imitation instead of the dearer genuine 
 article, but as he is to pay me such a respect- 
 able fee he shall be defended against such an 
 imputation. He cannot get enough real cream 
 for the requirements of his business; what he 
 does get, is not uniformly good; some of it is 
 just on the point of turning sour when it comes ; 
 some, having been kept too long, has a flavor 
 of mouldiness ; the larger portion is so thin that 
 he can hardly tell it from new milk. This is 
 always the way with the products of nature, 
 they lack uniformity, they are subject to great 
 variations of quality and appearance; on the 
 other hand, the products of art are always un- 
 
 der control of the artist, who can make them 
 always alike or vary them at pleasure. Cooks 
 can make artificial cream, therefore they are 
 artists. The B — man wants to be an artist, and 
 offers a hundred and fifty dollars. Besides that, 
 to freeze real cream is the lazy man's way ; any- 
 body can pour pure eream cold into the freezer 
 (if they can only get the cream) with the requi- 
 site amount of sugar and flavoring, and freeze 
 it with such ease as to hardly miss the time ; 
 but to make artificial cream requires one to be 
 industrious, and industry is always praise- 
 worthy ; the B — man wants to know the in- 
 dustrious way, and says he will pay a hundred 
 and fifty dollars, here it is: 
 
 To make 4 gallons of artificial cream, which 
 will be 6 gallons of ice cream after freezing, 
 take 
 
 4 gallons of new milk. 
 
 7 pounds of granulated sugar. 
 
 ^ pound of corn starch. 
 
 24 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Set half the milk over the fire to boil with all 
 the sugar in it. Mix the starch in a pan with a 
 quart of the remaining cold milk, then drop in 
 the raw yolks and beat to mix. When the milk 
 on the fire boils, pour about a quart of it into 
 the starch and egg mixture, then turn these 
 into the boiling milk and at once remove the 
 kettle from the fire, for the heat is sufficient to 
 cook the starch and eggs. Add the cold milk 
 and strain into the freezer. 
 
 It is required that our artificial cream shall 
 beat up as well as real cream, that is, become 
 light and foamy, increase in volume and fill the 
 freezer. This it will do perfectly, when only 
 lightly cooked, as above directed. The boiling 
 milk cooks the starch and half cooks the yolks 
 so that they beat up by the motion of the 
 freezer as light as sponge cake. But to beat up 
 this or any other cream requires rapid motion. 
 It is most perfect where the freezer is run by 
 steam power, otherwise the old fashioned 
 paddle should be used to finish, and when the 
 artificial cream is so beaten up light, it cannot 
 be known from real cream, that is from goou 
 fresh cream that is neither sour or mouldy, and 
 if the two are tried together it will generally 
 receive the preference by the taste alone. If 
 that is not enough, and something that will 
 beat up better than cream be wanted, then take 
 the whites of the eggs, beat them up stiff when 
 the cream is nearly frozen and mix them in, 
 and continue beating and freezing and the 
 cream will raise the lid presently and foam all 
 over. Please remit. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 11 
 
 To be Tried. — It has been imparted to me as 
 a secret worth knowing that a peculiarly deli- 
 cious ice cream can be made of new milk which 
 has rennet mixed with it, as if it were to be 
 made into cheese, but it is not to be allowed to 
 become thoroughly curdled. Somebody want- 
 ing a specialty in ice cream should try it. 
 Something about milk and rennet can be found 
 in this book, in connection with English cheese 
 cakes and cream curd puddings. 
 
 About Prepared Almond Paste.— It is a pity 
 to have to say it, but the ready-prepared almond 
 paste, which can be bought in tin cans at about 
 25 cents per pound and makes such delicious 
 macaroons, almond icing and almond ice cream, 
 has been unfavorably mentioned by the chem- 
 ists as being adulterated with prussic acid, 
 which is a poison. However, it is the same 
 poisonous prussic acid which gives the flavor 
 to such fruits as the peach, apricot, cherry 
 and plum, its flavor is strongest in peach 
 kernels, yet these are never known to injure 
 anybody, the quantity of the drug being too 
 small to have any hurtful effect; it is prussic 
 acid which gives the bitter flavor to peach 
 leaves, laurel leaves and the bay leaves, which 
 are so much used for seasoning. Almond paste, 
 if used at all, should be used sparingly and not 
 with the excess which some pastry cooks 
 practice because they find almond ice cream is 
 a great favorite. Buyers of almond paste should 
 deal only with reputable manufacturers. It is 
 made, when genuine, of a mixture of sweet and 
 bitter almonds, and is not hurtful, but cannot 
 be so low-priced as an imitation flavored with 
 drugs. 
 
 To Use Almond Paste, shave it off the lump 
 thinly, mix the shavings with granulated sugar 
 and roll them together on the slab or table un- 
 til the paste is thoroughly divided amongst the 
 sugar, then use the sugar to make what is 
 wanted. 
 
 Another Plum Pudding. — This receipt makes 
 one good-sized pudding: Take half a pound of 
 breadcrumbs, half a pound of flour, half a pound 
 of beef suet chopped very fine, two ounces of 
 sweet almonds cut in fillets, one pound of cur- 
 rants, one pound of raisins (stoned), eight 
 ounces of lemon-peel cut in thin stripes, two 
 ounces of citron-peel, four ounces of brown 
 raw sugar, the zest and juice of one lemon ; mix 
 well together with eight eggs and a wineglass 
 of brandy; boil six hours, and hang up in the 
 larder till required ; then boil up again for two 
 or three hours — an hour or two will in no way 
 
 injure a good plum-pudding — and always serve 
 very hot, with brandy or rum sauce, as the case 
 may be. 
 
 Bakers' Cheap Cup Cakes. ' 
 
 4 pounds butter. 
 
 6 pounds sugar. 
 32 eggs. 
 
 2 quarts milk. 
 
 2 quarts water. 
 
 4 ounces ammonia. 
 
 12 pounds flour, or enough to make dough a 
 little thinner than pound cake. Mix like 
 pound cake, adding the milk and water after 
 the eggs, and flour and ammonia or powder 
 last. Weigh off three-ounce cakes in small 
 moulds. 
 
 Bakers' Lady Fingers. 
 
 I pound sugar. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 I pound flour. 
 Beat the eggs (not separated) and the sugar 
 together for half an hour, stir in the flour 
 lightly. Directions for forming and baking 
 will be found in this book. This is a harder, 
 less delicate and more serviceable kind than 
 the receipts in the following pages. 
 
 Why these "Notes" are Written.— As fast 
 
 as any new thing comes up or any old and well- 
 known thing is newly found out to be specially 
 good for hotel use, I try to get it into these 
 books as new editions are being printed. The 
 following letter will please some readers, and 
 pleases me because it shows up what I have al- 
 ways contended for, that it is better to have a 
 few special good things that everybody likes 
 than to have a hundred or thousand far-away, 
 strange dishes that nobody appreciates; this 
 friend wanted the one receipt for " Popovers " 
 worse than he wanted the whole book besides, 
 and expense is no object when a man wants a 
 specialty. This receipt can be found in Cooking 
 for Profit and in the new edition of the Family 
 Cook Book, in one of which the man from Ohio 
 had it and now it is in this volume, also. 
 
 , Kans., Dec. 9, 1887. 
 
 Mr. j. Whitehead. 
 Dear Sir: — About one month ago I sent for 
 one of your Pastry Cook books, to find out of 
 what and how to make the so-called Popovers \ 
 they are a batter with eggs, and bake in a pud- 
 ding cup about 3 inches high, when baked they 
 crack open and are hollow in centre and brown 
 
IS 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 in color. Some Ohio man has made them here 
 and are very often called for. It is not in the 
 American Pastry Book, or, if so, cannot find it. 
 If you understand what I mean, please le- me 
 know at once, and if extra charges send it C. O. 
 D. by express. 
 
 Yours Truly 
 
 C 
 
 N. B. — Please attend at once. 
 
 Popovers, or German Puffs.— These puffs 
 are among the culinary curiosities, as they have 
 neither powder nor any other raising material 
 in them, yet they rise high above the tops of 
 the cups and become quite hollow — if not 
 spoiled by too much flour. Good, rich milk 
 should be used to make them. The batter may 
 be kept an hour or two after mixing and little 
 batches of puffs baked fresh as wanted, and the 
 last will be as good as the first. 
 2 eggs. 
 I pint of milk — or 2 cups. 
 
 10 ounces of flour — or two slightly rounded 
 cups. 
 
 Salt, a small teaspoonful. 
 
 Break the eggs into a bowl, beat them light 
 and keep adding the milk while beating. That 
 takes about five minutes. Add the salt, then 
 the flour all at once and beat it smooth like 
 cream. 
 
 Bake in cups or deep mufiin pans well but- 
 tered, and only half fill them with the batter. 
 Bake in a moderate oven about half an hour. 
 
 from a loaf and serve with other kinds in the 
 cake baskets. 
 
 Scotch Slices. — This favorite kind of cake, 
 and likewise " aniseed slices," " caraway slices" 
 and other names given by different bakers, are 
 all made of Scotch shortbread^ as follows : 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 ^ pound of butter. 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 Rub the butter into the flour, stir the eggs in 
 the sugar until it is partly dissolved, mix all to- 
 gether. It makes dough that can be rolled out 
 and will be a trifle lighter for not being kneaded 
 too much. 
 
 To make Scotch or caraway slices, mix in a 
 tablesp®onful or two of caraway seeds, for ani- 
 seed slices use aniseed, for German slices use 
 coriander seed. Roll the dough into a long roll, 
 place on the baking pan and flatten it down to 
 about an inch thick, bake with a dredging of 
 sugar on top. When baked, cut off slices as 
 
 L. E. B., Ogdensburg, writes: "Can you tell 
 me what use to make of surplus yolks of eggs? 
 You do not mention but one kind of cake made 
 with yolks. I am employed in a fine bakery or 
 confectionery, and some times have several quarts 
 of yolks left over in a week and have to throw 
 them away spoiled." 
 
 Ans. If you were doing hotel work you would 
 find, on the contrary, the whites would be left 
 over, there being so many more uses for the 
 yolks. The yolk contains all the richness of the 
 eggs, and gives color, flavor and smoothness to 
 puddings, cream custards and sweet sauces, better 
 alone than with the whites mixed in. We use the 
 yolks also in fish sauces, salad dressings, in potato 
 and other croquettes, also minced for an orna- 
 mental garnish, mixed with flour for "noodles" 
 and with batter for another kind of soup, also 
 thicken soups with them, instead of flour or 
 starch, and steam yolks in bulk like a cake, then 
 cut up and use them as we would chicken meat 
 for patties. We rub cooked yolks through a sieve 
 making a sort of vermicelli, to serve with some 
 dish, and we drop them whole, also, into soup to 
 substitute turtle eggs. We cut them up and mix 
 with chicken meat, mushroons and sauce to fill 
 the shells of fried bread with, and if there are any 
 raw yolks left over after that, we mix them in the 
 waffle batter. In a good bakery you will find 
 nearly as many uses for this the best part of the 
 tgg^ no matter how many may be left over, from 
 your using the whites in meringues, macaroons, 
 icing, etc., for the yolks may be mixed with water 
 and used the same as whole eggs. Take a pint 
 measure about two-thirds full of yolks, fill it up 
 with water and you have a pint of eggs, which is 
 a pound, or equal to ten eggs, and the mixture of 
 yolks and water can be used in making almost 
 any sort of cakes, the only difference observable 
 being that they are yellower and richer than if 
 whole eggs are employed. In this way you can 
 utilize the yolks in all sorts of small cakes, in 
 French coffee cakes, buns, rusks, tea-cakes, and 
 in the sorts of sponge cakes and jelly rolls which 
 are made light with powder instead of whipped 
 whites. If you make ice creams, they alone — 
 that is the fancy kinds — should use up all of that 
 material you can have to spare, and another good 
 purpose to put surplus egg-yolks to is to mix them 
 with lemon or orange syrup and a little butter 
 and stir the mixture over the fire until it thickens 
 into a jam, very good to fill tartlets. If after that 
 any yolks of eggs remain on hand, put them in 
 the lemon and pumpkin pies. 
 
•.' i\ :'»; w 
 
 THE 
 
 ^HOTEL-BOOK^ 
 
 OF 
 
 Fine Pastries. 
 
 ■NclCES'N- 
 
 PIES, PATTIES, CAKES, CREAMS, CUSTARDS, CHARLOTTES, JELLIES, 
 AND SWEET ENTREMETS IN VARIETY; 
 
 BEING A PART OF THE 
 
 "Oven and Range" Series 
 
 
 BY 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 1804. 
 
The American Pastry (lo(m.Ai'<]:^.^ 
 
 1. Angel Food, or "WTiite Sponge Cake. 
 
 11 whites of eggs. 
 
 10 ounces of fine granulated sugar — all that can 
 be shaken and heaped on a cup. 
 
 5 ounces of flour — a cup moderately heaped. 
 
 2 rounded teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of vanilla or lemon extract. 
 
 Get two pans together, put the cream of tartar 
 into the flour and mix them by sifting out of one 
 pan into the other six or seven times. 
 
 Whip the whites firm enough to bear up an egg, 
 put in the sugar, beat a few seconds, add the flav- 
 oring, then stir in the flour lightly without beat- 
 ing. When the flour is mixed in fairly out of sight 
 it is finished. As soon as mixed put the cake in 
 the oven. It needs'careful baking like a meringue 
 in a slack oven and should stay in from 20 to 30 
 minutes. A deep smooth mold with an unusually 
 large tube is the best, but any other will do. The 
 mold should not be greased, but when the cake is 
 done turn it upside down, the tube or something 
 else holding it up to let the air in, and leave it to 
 get cold before trying to take it out. Then cover it 
 with the plain sugar glaze of the next receipt. 
 
 The rule for angel food in large quantities is a 
 pound of sugar, a pound of whites, half a pound of 
 flour and an ounce of cream tartar. 
 
 Angel food, as this peculiarly white and light 
 sponge cake is fancifully named has quite a history 
 to be recorded. It originated in St. Louis a few years 
 ago and is seen oftener in the hotel bills of fare of 
 that city than anywhere else. 8. Sides, who kept 
 a large cafe or restaurant there invented it and did 
 not fail to make the most of his discovery, and it 
 soon came into such great demand that not only 
 was no fine party supper complete without it but 
 it was shipped to distant cities, orders coming even 
 from London. For some time the method of mak- 
 ing it was kept a profound secret but at length the 
 inventor yielded so far as to sell the receipt for 
 twenty-five dollars, having it understood that it 
 could not be made without a certain powder that 
 could be obtained from him alone. It did not take 
 long to discover that the powder was nothing but 
 cream of tartar and the receipt once communicated 
 gradually became common property. Many of the 
 caterers for parties make a specialty of it, for it is 
 still sufficientlv difficult to make always alike to 
 prevent its becoming utterly common, and a con 
 fiderable number of the cakes are sent out packed 
 
 in boxes to surrounding towns, and occasionally to 
 the east and south. The difficulty such as it is, 
 that makes the caterers say this cake has been 
 more trouble to them than anything else, and leads 
 to the use of special molds to bake it in is the ten« 
 dency to fall in at the centre after baking. The 
 mold not being greased holds the cake up to its 
 shape until cold. The lamb's-wool texture of it 
 may be made finer by stirring after the flour is ad- 
 ded. The cake will be better when a day o^d than 
 when first baked, but to keep the outside from dry- 
 ing and to make it better eatiog, as it has no rich- 
 ness in its ingredients, it is always covered with a 
 flavored sugar glaze or icing. It may have no di- 
 rect connection with it, but Sides, who originated 
 angel food, afterwards lost his reason and was 
 taken to an insane asylum, his wife continuing the 
 business he established. 
 
 2. Pearl Glaze for Angel Food, etc. 
 
 1 cupful of icing sugar. 
 
 2 whites of eggs. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of flavoring extract. 
 
 Mix them together in a bowl. As soon as the 
 sugar is fairly wetted it is ready but may be 
 whitened by beating one minute. It dries pearl 
 white; takes but a few minutes to prepare. Spread 
 it over the bottom and sides of angel food. It also 
 gives a rich transparent sort of eatable appearance 
 to the top of a fine jelly cake, and shows up orna- 
 ments of finished white icing finely. 
 
 It does nearly as well with the sugar only slight- 
 ly wetted with water instead of white of egg, when 
 it is to be spread on pastry, as the sugar dries 
 white. It can also be colored pink, or with choc- 
 olate, or made yellow by mixing with yolk of egg. 
 
 3. Eight-Egg Sponge Cake. 
 
 1 pound of fine granulated sugar— 2 rounded 
 cups. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 6 tablespoonfuls of water — small ^ cup. 
 
 12 ounces of flour— 3 rounded cups. 
 
 Separate the eggs, the white into a bowl, the 
 yolks into the mixing pan. Put the water and 
 sugar in with the yolks and beat them ten minutes, 
 until they are a thick light batter. Have the flour 
 ready. Whip the whites to a very firm froth, then 
 mix the flour with the yolk mixture and stir the 
 whites in last. Bake in molds either large or small 
 Good for large and small sponge cakes and lady 
 fingers. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 ^;.* » *♦' Wfiite- Jepy iloll. 
 
 '. '"IJh^'&itg^lfacM'C^kedb'esnot answer to roll up, 
 
 but nearly the same ingredients put together in 
 
 another way make a fine roll and also white cake 
 
 lining for charlotte-russe. 
 
 10 ounces of granulated sugar — a heaping cupful. 
 
 12 ounces of whites of eggs — 13 whites. 
 
 6 ounces of flour — a heaping cupful. 
 
 2 rounded teaspoonfuls cream of tartar. 
 
 Vanilla or lemon extract, 
 
 Put the sugar and white of eggs into a deep pan, 
 pail or brass kettle and beat them together with the 
 wire egg whisk for about 20 mi-nutes. If beaten 
 rapidly in a cool place the mixture will then be like 
 good cake frosting. Then add the cream of tartar 
 and flavoring and beat one minute longer, next, stir 
 in the flour with a spoon. It should be baked im- 
 mediately. Lay a sheet of blank paper on the 
 largest baking pan, spread the cake only just thick 
 enough to hide the paper, bake about six or eight 
 minutes. Brush the paper over with water to get it 
 off. Spread lemon or orange honey or red jelly on 
 the cake and roll up. 
 
 S, Lady Cake. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 
 12 ounces of butter. 
 
 12 ounces of white of eggs. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of flavoring extiacts. 
 i teacup of milk. 
 
 The juice of one small lemon. 
 
 Use uncolored dairy butter. Warm the sugar and 
 butter slightly and stir them till white and creamy. 
 Add the egg whites a little at a time and after that 
 the flour. 
 
 Don't beat the white of eggs before mixing, but 
 beat the whole mixture thoroughly after the flour is 
 in. Then mix in the lemon juice and flavoring and 
 last of all the milk. 
 
 o. 
 
 Delicate Cake. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 12 ounces of butter, 
 12 ounces of white of eggs. 
 8 ounces of flour. 
 8 ounces of corn starch. 
 Juice of half a lemon. 
 2 teaspoonfulls of flavoring extracts. 
 ^ cup of milk. 
 
 1 bastingspoonful of brandy. 
 Don't beat the whites to a froth, but cream the 
 butter and sugar together, add the whites by por- 
 tions, then the starch and flour, and after them the 
 lemon juice, milk, flavorings and brandy. Beat all 
 together well. 
 
 7. Snow Oake. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 12 ounces of white dairy butter. 
 1 pound of white of eggs — about 18 whites. 
 8 ounces of fine flour. 
 10 ounces of corn starch. 
 Juice of one lemon. 
 I cupful of milk. 
 Flavoring extracts. 
 Little brandy. 
 
 Don't beat the whites to a froth. Cream the 
 butter and sugar together, add the whites a little at 
 a time, then the starch and flour, after that the 
 lemon juice, flavorings and milk. Beat well. 
 
 8. 
 
 Finest Chocolate Cake. 
 
 Melt 4 ounces of common chocolate by merely 
 warming it in a cup set on the side of the range. 
 
 Make the snow cake mixture preceding, flavor it 
 strongly with vanilla, and leave out the brandy. 
 Pour in the melted chocolate and beat it in just be- 
 fore the milk. 
 
 O. 
 
 Finest Wine Cake. 
 
 Make the snow cake mixture and leave out the 
 milk. Instead of it mix in at the last nearly a small 
 teacupful of madeira wine, with enough either of 
 red strawberry syrup or of drops of carmine to make 
 the cake couleur de rose, but only pale blush or 
 peach bloom, not any dull red or purples for cake. 
 The lemon juice is very necessary here; it changes 
 red to bright pink. 
 
 lO. 
 
 Marble Cake. 
 
 Make either of the white cake mixtures, take out 
 about half a cupful and color it light red with straw- 
 berry or currant syrup. 
 
 Butter a cake mould, flour it, and shake out the 
 surplus flour, leaving the mould thinly coated. 
 Drop lumps of cake batter in the mould with a tea- 
 spoon, paint them over with a knife dipped in the 
 red batter, but without flattening or smoothing or 
 running the lumps together. Drop more spoonfuls 
 of the cake mixture in the hollows and paint them 
 over with the knife blade dipped in red as before, 
 and so fill the mould to within an inch of the top. 
 There will be fine waving lines of pink through the 
 cake when cut. 
 
 Chocolate and white can be used in the same w»y. 
 The snow cake mixture is apt to be too soft to keep 
 form by spoonfuls, unless quite cold. 
 
 " Luck" is the poorest possible ingredient in cake 
 making. The same cause will always produce the 
 same effect. The exact proportions that will make 
 a splendid cake one time will make the same every 
 time if put together the same way. The questioa is 
 only to find the right proportions. 
 
THE AlVIERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 11. 
 
 Turkish Cake 
 
 Fine chocolate cake with figs, almonds and 
 raisins. The snow cake mixture will not bear up 
 the fruit. Make the lady cake mixture, and add to 
 it 4 ounces of chocolate melted by heat in a cup. 
 Then prepare 
 
 8 ounces of chopped figs. 
 
 8 ounces of almonds blanched and split. 
 
 8 ounces of seedless raisins. 
 
 Flavor the prepared cake batter with vanilla and 
 a little brandy. Dust the fruit with flour and stir it 
 
 What makes us think the ladies cannot make deli- 
 cate cakes, for sure, just when they want them is 
 the exhibition they sometimes make at a church 
 fair where everybody contributes cake with their 
 names on. They look awful — like a cake hospital. 
 
 18. 
 
 Almond Cake. 
 
 Make the lady cake mixture — the first receipt of 
 this series — and add to it a pound of almonds 
 blanched (scalded and peeled) and split. Also use 
 almond extract and ro«e extract to flavor with. 
 Dust the almonds with flour. The snow cake mix- 
 ture would be too delicate to bear up the almonds. 
 
 13. 
 
 White Baisin Cake. 
 
 Like the preceding, with a pound of sultan* 
 seedless raisins instead of almonds, and flavor with 
 lemon and extract of nutmegs. This is best baked 
 in shallow pans in sheets; but of that more further 
 on. 
 
 And it is for these church fairs or other public 
 festivals the dwellers in the world of private houses 
 try to succeed and show their best, if ever, but they 
 seem to always fail. 
 
 14. 
 
 Queen Cake 
 
 Made with the lady cake mixture, No. 5, except 
 the milk. 
 
 1 pound of the greenest colored candied citron. 
 
 i pound of almonds, blanched and split. 
 
 i pound of sultana seedless raisins. 
 
 I cup of sherry or maderia wine. 
 
 The citron to be cut in fine shreds and floured to- 
 gether with the almonds and raisins before mixing 
 in. This mixture also makes small queen cakes, 
 baked in little patty-pans, and these frosted on toj^j 
 are among the finest possible. 
 
 It is at these times they make the master of the 
 house buy a cord of hickory wood and hire a man to 
 saw it, because it makes such a nice steady heat to 
 bake a cake with; and they send a boy on a horse 
 
 to a friend's in the country to get some "'* right 
 fresh eggs," because there are none in the whole 
 town good enough. Then they have Julia to dry 
 the flour, and IJetsey to wash and pound the butter, 
 and Susan and her little sister to beat the eggs, and 
 it is bad for the poor cat if she gets in the way. 
 We fellows who live in bakeries don't positively 
 know that these things take place, but have picked 
 up such impressions someway. But we do know 
 how the cakes look when they get to the fair. 
 
 15. 
 
 Hickory Nut Cake, 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of whites of eggs (9 whites.) 
 
 ^ cupful of milk. 
 
 1 rounded teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound c f flour. 
 12 ounces of hickory nut kernels. 
 
 Don't beat the whites to a froth. Warm the but- 
 ter and sugar together and rub them to a cream the 
 usual way, then add the eggs, then milk, powder, 
 and the flour. When well mixed stir in the hickory 
 nuts. Flavorings may be added at option. If 
 brandy be used the baking powder should be left 
 out. 
 
 1«. 
 
 There is one cake marked "presented by Mrs. A.* 
 It rose one-sided. The top cracked all over, looked 
 like all splits and gullies, and in the high side a 
 crater opened and the lava kept rising and running 
 and never would get cooked and stop, though all the 
 rest of the cake was done hard long ago, and began 
 to smell unpleasantly. That cake was poor, had 
 too little butter and too much eggs, milk and flour, 
 and probably was not put into bake for some hours 
 after the batter was mixed. There is another 
 "presented by Miss B.'' It rose and rose, flat- 
 topped and even, but never got above the edge of 
 the cake mould. It leaked over the top and hung 
 in strings, and fell on the stove bottom and made a 
 smell, and when it got tired of that it just sunk 
 down and down again. That had too much sugar. 
 
 17, 
 
 Dream Cake. 
 
 In a city that we know of there is an entire 
 side of a building in a fashionable neighborhood 
 painted in large letters with the words "celebrated 
 dream cake." Evidently it was the aim to rival 
 the fame of "angel food," and this is certainly 
 better eating, although scarcely so extremely 
 W'hite. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar — 2 cups, 
 y, pound of butter — 1 cup. 
 
 12 whites of eggs — \%, cup. 
 Yz pint of milk — 1 cup. 
 
 2 rounded teaspoons baking powdef 
 
10 
 
 THE AMERIOAxN x-^ASTRY COOK. 
 
 1 rounded teaspoon cream tartar. 
 
 Vanilla or lemon extract. 
 
 1 pound good weight of flour — 4 cups. 
 
 Sift the flour, powder and cream tartar together 
 three or four times over. 
 
 Soften the butter and stir it and the sugar to- 
 gether until white and creamy, gradually stir in 
 the milk, tepid, and a handful of flour to keep 
 them from separating. Whip the whites to froth, 
 and add part whites and part flour until all are in, 
 and flavoring extract at same time. Bake either 
 in cake moulds or shallow pans and frost over 
 when done. 
 
 Kossuth Cakes. 
 
 Make sponge drops large and thick, hollow out 
 the bottoms, put in whipped cream or pastry 
 cream, place two together and with a fork dip 
 them in melted sweet chocolate or chocolate icing 
 and set on tins to dry. A specialty of Baltimore 
 confectioners. Sell at about a dollar a dozen. 
 
 SO. 
 
 Havana Cream Cake. 
 
 18. 
 
 Ordinary White vake. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 8 ounces of butter, melted. 
 10 whites of eggs. 
 
 1 cupful of milk. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
 li^ pounds of flour. 
 
 Beat the sugar, melted butter and white* all to- 
 gether a minute or two, add the milk, powder, flour 
 and flavor. 
 
 Now, if we had to make cakes in some place 
 where people took notice and made remarks and 
 said we did not know much about making good 
 things in hotels nohow, and if they couldn't do 
 better they would sell out, we should want to make 
 the snow cake as beautiful and white as cotton bat- 
 ting, bake it thin in jelly cake pans, spread some of 
 the richest confections between the cakes, and ice 
 the top, having the cake and the icing so near alike 
 in whiteness as to be hardly distinguishable apart. 
 
 19. 
 
 Pistachio Creazn Cake. 
 
 8 ounces of pistachio nuts, blanched and chopped. 
 8 ounces of sugar, 
 i cupful of water. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 Whites of four eggs. 
 
 Green juice from pounded spinach leaves for color- 
 ing. 
 
 3 jelly cake sheets of snow cake. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water to thick syrup, throw in 
 the butter, then the pistachio nuts, boil five 
 minutes; then stir in the white of eggs and take it 
 off when they thicken. Color it a little deeper than 
 pistachio green. Spread this when cold between 
 the three sheets of cake. 
 
 8 ounces of fresh grated cocoanut. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 4 large oranges. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 yolks and 2 whole eggs. 
 
 Grate the rinds and squeeze the juice of the 
 oranges and lemons into the sugar and bring it to a 
 boil, making a flavored syrup. Throw in the but- 
 ter, then the cocoanut, and boil 5 minutes. Stir in 
 the eggs and cook slowly till thick. Spread between 
 layers of snow cake. 
 
 Then they are strange the way they exclaim when 
 they burn up a cake in the stove. Once we heard 
 a lady sing, "Gee woicks gee whilikens, the dor- 
 drotted thing's gone blackernaniggerbaby !" That 
 was at the toll house at Shippingsport near Louis- 
 ville, as we were going through the locks twenty- 
 seven years ago last anniversary, and anybody could 
 know it was a cake burnt up by the black smell that 
 came across the canal. Now one of us fellows 
 would only have remarked dam kind of quietly and 
 lighted our pipe. In fact, you have to bake these 
 white cake sheets with scarcely any color at all to 
 look well with colored creams between and ichig on 
 top. 
 
 SI. 
 
 Glazed Cakes. 
 
 We use the term for cakes glazed over with boiled 
 icings of different colors to make a distinction from 
 the usual iced or frosted cakes with raw sugar 
 icing. All the richness of cream candy bon-bons 
 belongs to these; they are better to cut, better to 
 look at and better to eat than the common, and 
 after a very little practice are quicker made and dry 
 immediately. 
 
 22, Yellow Glaze or Boiled Icings. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 i teacupful of water. 
 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Flavoring extracts. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water, without stirring, for 6 
 minutes or more, or till a drop of the syrup in coid 
 water sets so that it can hardly be flattened between 
 the finger and thumb. A deep bowl-shaped sauce- 
 pan holding one quart should be used. Have the 
 yolks slightly beaten ready in a bowl. Pour the 
 bubbling syrup to the yolks quickly while you 
 rapidly beat them with an egg beater. Return to 
 the fire and keep stirring while it cooks a minute or 
 two. It will then do to pour on sheets of cake and 
 jf the syrup was at the right point it will set hard 
 and dry as soon as cold. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 11 
 
 But it is better to finish by beating the glaze 
 rapidly while it is cooling, and add the flavoring 
 just as it becomes too thick to beat. 
 
 The above is the easiest of the kind to make, as it 
 does not make so much difference what point the 
 syrup is boiled to — it will dry on the cakes anyway. 
 
 23. White Glaze or Boiled Icing:. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 ^ teacupful of water. 
 
 4 whites of eggs. 
 
 Flavoring extracts. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water to a point thicker than 
 for the yellow glaze, or till the drop in cold water 
 sets hard and brittle. After the first mixing of the 
 sugar and water these syrups should never be 
 stirred — makes them turn to sugar. Don't beat the 
 whites any more than enough to mix them. Pour 
 the bubbling syrup to the whites, beating all the 
 while. Set on the fire again and beat for a minute 
 or two while it. cooks. It is extremely liable to 
 burn on the bottom. 
 
 Then set the saucepan in a pan of ice-water, and 
 beat the icing with a Dover egg beater till it becomes 
 thick. It will be of a dazzling whiteness at last. 
 Can be flavored to suit the fancy. If boiled to right 
 point sets hard as soon as spread or poured over the 
 cake. 
 
 IS4. Rose Glaze or Boiled Icing'. 
 
 Make the white glaze and color and flavor to suit, 
 just as it begins to be so thick as to be hard to beat. 
 
 35. Chocolate Glaze or Boiled Icing:. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 .^ teacupful of water. 
 • 3 ounces of grated chocolate. — the common sort. 
 
 4 whole eggs. 
 
 Vanilla flavoring extract. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water together in a deep sauce- 
 pan for five minutes, add the chocolate. 
 
 When a drop in cold water sets hard almost as 
 candy stir in the eggs rapidly, beating all the while* 
 Let cook about five minutes more with constant 
 stirring. Flavor with vanilla. Beat more or less 
 while it is cooling. Spread or pour it over sheets of 
 cake. 
 
 The confectioners, too, like us to make these 
 glaze cakes for their windows and show cases; they 
 take pleasure when the cake is as white as the icing, 
 and red jelly between the layers, in putting them in 
 the front rank. Having 3 or 4 different kinds of 
 glaze and sheets of the whitest cakes only about a 
 third of an inch thick to cover with them you can 
 cut them when set in squares or diamonds and 
 triangles, red, white, yellow and chocolate, and they 
 
 make a very pretty stack. Besides, small cakes, 
 such as sponge drops, can be dipped in the icings 
 while hot and another assortment made, just the 
 thing for ornamental baskets and pyramids. 
 
 SO. Chocolate Glaze without Eggs. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 i teacupful of water. 
 
 4 ounces of common chocolate, grated. 
 
 Poil all together almost to candy point, flavor 
 with vanilla when partly cooled, beat a short time, 
 spread over the cake. 
 
 Colored syruj- of fruit juice and sugar boiled 
 down thick enc „gh to bubble and rise in the sauce- 
 pan can be used instead of icings to cover cake with 
 a glassy surface. 
 
 »T. 
 
 Items about Puff Paste. 
 
 When puff-paste has been rolled out and folded 
 up again 4 times it lies just like 2 quires of tissue 
 paper piled alternately a yellow sheet with a white 
 sheet — a sheet of butter and a sheet of paste, all of 
 the same evenness and regularity from bottom to top. 
 It is hard to get butter and dough to lie so equally, 
 but that is what has to be tried for, and we have to 
 show how to make them come so. If baked then 
 the sheets of paste or dough would be as sharp as knife 
 blades, and might cut the mouth of the rash person 
 who should try to eat them, the butter having all run 
 out into the baking pan. One more rolling and 
 folding makes the layers two-thirds thinner, and 
 eatable, and another rolling after that makes the 
 layers thin enotigh to be blown away with the 
 breath. 
 
 The reason of these unfinished sheets of paste be- 
 ing so sharp edged and continuous, is, there is no 
 shortening rubbed into the flour when fine puff- 
 paste is wanted — the layers of dough are nothing 
 but flour and water. Rubbing part or all of the 
 butter or lard into the flour dry makes short-paste, 
 but not the marvellous, flaky, high-flying puff paste. 
 Those who get their first instructions in home places 
 never want to believe that. 
 
 Some people say it is a matter of light touch, a 
 peculiar temperament, a something inherited that 
 makes certain individuals always and easily suc- 
 cesses at making puff-paste and others always fail- 
 ures. They say women make better paste than men. 
 There is no grounds for such a distinction. The 
 probability is, it is a matter of sense and study, of 
 head work more than hand work. A giddy person 
 does not make fine paste, but is is not their hand 
 that's giddy, it's their head. It is cause and effect 
 again, and some cannot see their relation. Some 
 people cannot place rolls in straight rows in the pan, 
 nor lay strips on pies diamond-wise. 
 
12 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 It makes all the difference when a fresh cub comes 
 in the kitchen to be pastry cook's boy, if he has 
 been one of those young ones that stand with their 
 chin on the kitchen table seeing their mother make 
 pies. 
 
 The others are amusing green and awkward. 
 They will pour a pint of water into a big pan of flour 
 and then go feeling around for the lumps it makes, 
 and pick them out one by one. They could not 
 work the lump of dough they get that way without 
 a sledge hammer, and pie dough has to be about as 
 soft as mush. The way is to pour the water in a 
 hole made in the middle of the flour, and gently stir 
 it round with two fingers till it has gathered in flour 
 enough so it can be lifted out of the pan on to the 
 table, there to be worked smooth and fit to roll out. 
 
 The best puff-pa^te is that made in 10, 15 or 20 
 minutes, according to the quantity, when one has no 
 time to spare for packing it between pans of pounded 
 ice, or for other foolishness, when the butter has 
 been worked smooth and pliable beforehand, and 
 lies ready in a pan of ice-water — when the ice-water 
 stands ready to mix with, the flour is cold and the 
 oven is hot and waiting — then you turn out paste 
 that puffs and rises high and dry and wholesome. 
 The reason is the ingredients don't have time to get 
 warm and soggy, and there is an immense amount 
 of labor and trouble saved over the ice packing way. 
 Still, of course, the same method is not practicable 
 in every place. 
 
 When the plain, soft flour and water dougn nas 
 been rolled out as if for cutting biscuits out of, but 
 instead is covered all over with the required amount 
 of butter in lumps, and then the dough is folded 
 over it, the ^rsential thing and the only difficult one 
 is to get the dough and butter to roll out again and 
 again at even pace. Soft butter will give way under 
 the rolling-pin and leave its place, burst through, or 
 out at the ends. It is of no use trying with really 
 soft butter, but when it is of medium firmness the 
 dough may be mixed very soft to match it, and good 
 paste may be made. With the flour and water ex- 
 tremely cold, the butter often hardens in the paste 
 instead of softening — that is success, whether done 
 in one or two hours in an ice-chest or in ten minutes 
 on a cold table. There is another difficulty in the 
 way of even distribution — the more the dou^h is 
 worked and rolled the tougher it beomes and 
 springs back, while the butter does not. To over- 
 come that, the paste is allowed to rest awhile after 
 about three rollings, but it is better in warm 
 weather to get along without such an interval, by 
 not kneading the dough at all, and having it soft 
 enough at the start. The experienced workman 
 goes through a certain routine every day that meets 
 all exigencies, and his work is always alike, while 
 others talk about the luck and havinr? *^ light hand 
 for fine paste. 
 
 They make a great fuss — the people who make 
 verses do — about the beauties of milking the cows; 
 as if there were no flies and cows didn't kick ! It is 
 much more charming to be working the butter. We 
 have seen them at summer resort houses. They go 
 where the spring water runs cold, and work the 
 lump of butter in a trough till it is just perfection 
 to make pufl" paste with — though no dairy maid ever 
 will let her fresh lump of butter go for such a pur- 
 pose. We have to work the butter as well as the 
 time allowable in the crowded forenoon permits by 
 pounding it in a wooden bowl with a potato masher 
 Cold butter that is not so broken and made pliable 
 is as bad as warm, for it will not be pressed out by 
 rolling, but cuts its way through in lumps every- 
 where. 
 
 We have another newer and entirely different 
 way of making fine leaf paste, but like this common 
 way the best for meeting all the varied requirements 
 of hotel work, and this is the formula. 
 
 38, 
 
 Puflf Paste. 
 
 1 pint of water (2 coffeecupfuls.) 
 
 Flour — all the water will take up. 
 
 Butter — from \\ to 2 pounds. 
 
 Mix the flour and water to soft dough. Roll it 
 out about an inch thick. Take half the butter and 
 drop it in lumps the size of eggs upon the sheet of 
 dough, the width of two fingers between each lump. 
 Sift a little flour over, press the butter into the 
 dough slightly, then fold the dough over in three. 
 Roll out to the same thickness as before, distribute 
 the remaining half of the butter over it, dredge, and 
 fold over in three again, and count that one fold — 
 the former folding with only half the butter in counts 
 nothing, or "half a turn." Always keep the dough 
 rolled out to square shape and turn the broad side 
 towards you after folding. Roll and fold till you 
 have counted 6 times. Use plenty of flour under 
 and over until the last rolling wlien the surplus 
 should be swept off. It is then ready for use. 
 39. 
 
 After a few trials neither butter nor flour need be 
 weighed — the rule of butter size of an egg two 
 fingers apart is all that is wanted, and the amount 
 to be made can be governed by the cups or dippers 
 of water used. 
 
 30. 
 
 Lard for Puff-Paste. 
 
 Then there is the question of expense. They hate 
 to furnish first-rate butter enough to make good 
 puff"-ppste; people are fond of pies and pastries, and 
 it costs like sixty. There is little use in making 
 paste as rich as it can be made anyway, except when 
 it is for fancy articles — the tall puff'ed up edges of 
 pies are oftenest thrown away with all their fine 
 butter in them — only because people cannot eat 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 18 
 
 everything, and the middle of the pie goes first. 
 Butter that is only just a little off does well enough* 
 but butter that is bad spoils the whole article, filling 
 and all, clear through. Good lard is far better than 
 poor butter to make good eatable white and light 
 pastry, and some sorts will make just as tall puff- 
 paste as butter will. Oily and grainy lard will not ; 
 it has to be the firm, tough tenacious kind of dried 
 out lard. The very best everyday kind of paste is 
 made with half butter and half good firm lard. 
 Then a little salt must be strewn over the lumps of 
 laid after they are spread on the dough. Butter 
 alone carries salt enough. 
 
 31. 
 
 Compressed Lard. 
 
 The most wonderfully light and tall puff-paste, 
 that beat butter pastry all hollow, used to be made 
 in the times when lard oil was used in immense 
 quantities before kerosene came in, of the stearine 
 lard, the residue left after pressing out the oil. This 
 was as hard as tallow, but of a different texture. 
 Oil is the greatest enemy to puff-paste, and stearine 
 contains none. Then we had vol-au vents that a 
 small goose could be hid in, that rose several inches 
 high of their own lightness. 
 
 It looks like the sweet fresh suet that comes in so 
 plentifully with the fat loins of beef ought to be 
 better far pastry than strong butter and miserable 
 oily lard, and so it is, and comes next to the stearine 
 lard mentioned above, but can only be used after 
 going through a particular process. People try to 
 use melted suet or tallow or drippings, and they 
 mince raw suet and then pound it fine, but however 
 good short paste these may make they will not pro- 
 duce puff-paste. The suet or tallow is always com- 
 posed of hard grains that cut through and destroy 
 the flakes. The proper process is something of a 
 trade secret; a good thing for those who work for 
 themselves to save butter by. 
 
 33. 
 
 To Prepare Suet for Making: 
 Puff-Paste. 
 
 Cut the suet very small, leaving out all dark meat 
 stained pieces, and set on the side of the range in a 
 boiler with plenty of hot water. The suet must not 
 boil but steep in scalding water for a few hours. 
 Then pour water and all into a large strainer with a 
 bottom of perforated tin — a gravy strainer — and rub 
 the fat through with a potato masher. Get a pan 
 of broken ice and water and a little salt in it, and 
 dip the strained fat by ladlefuls into it, stirring the 
 ice about at the same time. The fat sets instantly 
 on falling into the cold water in crumbs like meal. 
 Gather it by straining, press it together and pound it 
 with a masher in a bowl as you would butter. Salt 
 it for use. 
 
 Some years ago — about the close of the war — the 
 writer had a friendly contention with a fine cook 
 who made splendid pastry, as to whether as fine puff 
 paste could not be made by the old-fashioned way 
 just explained, as by this following. It was finally 
 decided, after both ways had been tested to the ut- 
 most, that there was no difference in the results, but 
 there are certain every-day work considerations in 
 favor of the old way. The leaf paste is fine for 
 fancy tarts. The workman who would be perfect in 
 his trade will practice both. It's bad to have a fel- 
 low come along and beat you. 
 
 33., French Puff Paste or Feuilletage. 
 
 It is requisite to have the butter very firm and 
 free from water, and those who wish to have very 
 superior pastry will use the very finest flour. 
 
 Weigh your butter and flour in equal proportions, 
 cut the butter into thin slices, take a little flour and 
 roll it with a slice of butter into flakes, proceed thus 
 until all the butter and flour are rolled together; 
 gather the flakes into a heap, and sprinkle them 
 with water, about a gill and a half is required for a 
 pound of paste. Make into a smooth paste with the 
 hand, and then roll it out to the thickness of half an 
 inch. If a pound of paste, divide it into four parts, 
 flour the board and roll out each part as thin as a 
 wafer, fold over four or five times, and use as re- 
 quired. Bake as soon as possible. 
 
 Then try this, and hold fast that which you suc- 
 ceed with the best. 
 
 34. 
 
 Pine Leaf Paste. Ten-Minute 
 Paste, 
 
 1 pound of cold butter. 
 
 1 pound of cold flour. 
 
 i pint of ice-water — a coffecupful. 
 
 Cut the butter into pieces size of walnuts and put 
 them in a vessel containing broken ice and water 
 some time before using, to become very hard and 
 cold. 
 
 Sift the flour into a pan and lay aside a handful 
 to dust with. Throw in the lumps of butter, mix 
 them with the dry flour, pour in the ice water and 
 shake altogether, merely getting the flour dampened 
 and stuck to the lumps of butter, without kneading 
 or pressing. Scrape out the contents of the pan on 
 to the table well floured, press it up together and 
 then roll it out with all the force necessary to break 
 the lumps of butter, and spread all out to a thin 
 sheet. Now loosen it from the table with the 
 palette knife and roll it up like a roly-poly pudding, 
 and count 1. Roll it out again to half an inch, fold 
 over in three like ordinary paste and count 2, and so 
 roll and fold in three till you have connted 6 fold- 
 ings. But when half done it should have an inter- 
 val of 5 or 10 minutes to stand in a cold place and 
 lose its elasticity. 
 
14 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 35. Lemon Fie. Best Hotel Kind. 
 
 1 pound of white sugar. 
 6 lemons. 
 
 1 quart of water or milk. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 15 yolks of eggs —or 8 whole eggs. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 Put the sugar in a saucepan, grate in the lemo'^ 
 rinds — the yellow only — and squeeze in the juice 
 without the bitter seeds. Pour in the water and set 
 the saucepan on to boil. Mix the 2 tablespoonfuls 
 of starch with a little cold water, pour it into the 
 saucepan when the syrup is boiling and immediately 
 take it off the fire. Then mix in the yolks slightly 
 beaten — and the butter. They are not to be cooked 
 in it. Bake in pie pans lined with puff-paste rolled 
 out thin. Sift powdered sugar over the pies when 
 done, or else meringue over with the white of eggs 
 and sugar. 
 
 Can one advocate simplicity and short bills of fare 
 and a few things well cooked, and then give six 
 ways of making lemon pies and other things similar? 
 Yes. Not for one person to make the same thing 
 six ways so much as for six persons to pick out the 
 method that suits their particular circumstances and 
 style of table they cook for. And as with pie mix- 
 ture so with many other things in this book. For 
 the cheapest covered lemon pie of the great baker- 
 ies see No. 263. 
 
 36. 
 
 Club House Lemon Pie. 
 
 20 ounces of sugar. 
 
 9 large lemons. 
 
 1 J pints of rich cream. 
 18 yolks of eggs. 
 
 6 whites. 
 
 Place the sugar in a large bowl and grate the 
 lemon rinds into it, using a tin grater, and then 
 squeeze in the juice. Beat the yolks of eggs light 
 and mix the cream with them; pour this to the 
 lemon and sugar, and just before filling the pie 
 crusts with the mixture whip the 6 whites to a froth 
 and stir them in, No meringue needed for this rich 
 acid kind. 
 
 3T, 
 
 Lemon Pie. Southern. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 9 lemons. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 12 eggs. 
 
 Cut 3 of the lemons in thin slices and keep them to 
 strew in the pies when filled. Grate the others into 
 the sugar, squeeze in the juice, add water, make the 
 mixture hot to draw the lemon flavor, then mix in 
 the eggs well beaten. Let the lemon slices float in 
 the pies; bake, and sift powdered sugar over when 
 done. 
 
 38. Lemon Butter Pie or Tart. 
 Kichest. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 5 lemons. 
 
 4 ounces of'butter. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 whole egg. 
 
 Make a boiling lemon syrup of the sugar, grated 
 rinds and juice of the lemons — no water needed — 
 and throw in the butter. When that is melted stir 
 in the eggs. Let simmer on the range about 10 
 minutes. 
 
 Make the pies small, the paste rolled very thin, 
 and bake dry. 
 
 39. Lemon Butter. Baker's Way. 
 
 Good for pies, jelly cakes, tarts, turnovers, etc. 
 
 5 or six lemons. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 cupful of water. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 2 ounces of flour. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 Set the water on to boil with the grated lemon 
 rinds and juice in it, and the butter. Mix flour and 
 sugar together dry, beat them in the boiling liquor 
 then add the eggs and stir over the fire 10 minutes. 
 
 40. 
 
 Lemon Tarts without Fruit. 
 
 6 ounces of bread or cracker crumbs. 
 1 quart of water. 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 rounded teaspoonful of tartaric acid. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon extract. 
 5 eggs or ten yolks for richer color. 
 
 Mix all the ingredients together cold. The imita- 
 tion of lemon mixture is very close, and the pie is 
 better than the real that is sometimes made with 
 green and bitter lemons. 
 
 41. Peach Flan. 
 
 Said to have been for a few years a specialty, in 
 the peach season, at a large hotel at Put-in-Bay, 
 since burned down. 
 
 Cover a shallow baking-pan with bottom crust of 
 good pie paste, nearly cover that with quartered 
 peaches — in the same style as bakers' apple cake — 
 then fill up with custard made the same as fer cus- 
 tard pie and bake slowly. Cut in squares when 
 done and serve instead of pudding. It is necess- 
 ary to place the pan in the oven before filling and 
 add the custard by means of a long handled dipper. 
 When they are soft, ripe peaches they need no 
 previous cooking, but if hard must be stewed firet 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 16 
 
 4S. Imitation Lemon Pie. Aoid Pie. 
 
 6 ounces of bread or cracker crumbs. 
 1 quart of wafer. 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 rounded teaspoonful of tartaric acid, 
 
 2 tablespoon sful of lemon extract. 
 5 eggs, or 10 yolks for richer color, 
 
 Miz all the ingredients together cold. The imita- 
 tion of lemon mixture is very close and the pie is 
 better than the real that is sometimes made with 
 green and bitter lemons. 
 
 It is not everyone that calls himself a pastry cook 
 can turn out hotel pies artistically, and however 
 much the casual reader who thinks of pie only as 
 something to eat may be amused at the idea we as- 
 sure him there are possibilities of taking high posi- 
 tion among the «"ther things of beauty on the weal 
 thy table for the hotel pie which do not exist for the 
 private house pie, or the baker's pie, or if they do 
 are so remote it will take ages of domestic pie cul- 
 ture to bring them in sight. The experienced hotel 
 steward knows now instantly when he has secured 
 a fully developed hotel or fine steamboat pie maker. 
 Your baker trained to work for the hungry pie eater 
 rather than for the luxurious admirers of beaut ifu 
 pies covers every pie with a top crust, which is the 
 first sign, but the great sign of his standing is Eet 
 up when he takes both hands and cuts off the past. 
 ry by pressing against the edge of the plate, whirl, 
 ing the pie round at the same time. Why should 
 he make or wish to make fine leaf paste to press and 
 mash in that way? But your first-class pastry cook 
 having made his paste so that the flakes will rise 
 and open as distinct and separate as the leaves of a 
 rose and of a thinness more impalpable than tha^, 
 no matter how rapidly he may work, will roll even- 
 ly, throw it on the pie pan lightly, shake it down to 
 place with a little jar upon the table, take it up on 
 the fingers of the left hand and cut around with a 
 sharp knife, not leaving the least sign of pressure, 
 finger mark or drag or tear about it. These pies 
 though having tall flake-piled edges are pretty sure 
 to be almost as dry and free from grease as flaby 
 biscuits and quite wholesome both to eat and to see. 
 If people say that hotel pies are not so we reply that 
 it is because the pastry art is somewhat difficult and 
 there are few masters of it, the begirjners are slow t > 
 get hold of the fi le touches and the hotels are ful^ 
 of half taught beginners. We don't know anything 
 about the private houses, and these remarks make 
 no invidious reflections upon the household pie. 
 With both bottom and top crust rolled thin and 
 powdered sugar on top it is good. But the hotel pie 
 contemplates life from a different stand point and 
 like all the products of high art it is somewhat aris- 
 
 tocratic. Literature is cheap and common — you can 
 buy a rare classic for ten cents — the best thoughts 
 of the best writers for a nickel — imitations not to be 
 detected of the rarest gems for a dollar or two— but 
 the ideal hotel pie is only for the few. 
 
 So careful and tender is the good workman of his 
 leaf paste that he slants the knife outwards when 
 cutting that the paste may be wide and make a 
 broad edge; and that broad edge he notches with a 
 sharp knife in the places where the pie is to be 
 divided, lest with a rude 'pressure somebody will 
 crush and spoil the flakes in cutting the pie after it 
 is baked. 
 
 Greatest country, tallest mountains, longest rivers, 
 biggest pies. 
 
 43. Meringue for Lemon ?ies. 
 
 The secret of making the meringue or frosting 
 stand tall and thick on the pies is in the baking. 
 Whip the whites of eggs to a froth that will not fall 
 out of the bowl or pail when turned upside down, 
 put in about a tablespoon ful of granulated sugar for 
 each white, stir very little, spread it on the pies 
 when they are just done and still baking hot with- 
 out taking them out of the oven, and let them bake 
 with the door open. If made hot enough to brown 
 the meringue will surely fall and become worse than 
 nothing. 5 to 10 minutes is enough to bake the 
 meringue dry and straw-colored. Sift granulated 
 sugar on top of the meringue as soon as spread, be- 
 fore baking, to form a rich appearing crust for vari- 
 ety. 
 
 44, 
 
 Oocoanut Custard Pie. 
 
 Make a common plain custard of 1 quart of milk, 
 6 or 8 eggs and 6 ounces of sugar, then mix in 8 to 
 12 ounces of grated cocoanut. Bake in crusts. 
 
 45. Oocoanut Pie. Hotel Ordinary, 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of grated cocoanut. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 Boil the milk, mix the starch in the sugar dry 
 and stir them in and the butter and cocoanut, and 
 then take the mixture from the fire. Sdr in the 
 eggs after it has cooled a little. The eggs should be 
 beaten quite light first. Sift powdered sugar over 
 the pies after baking. 
 
 For cocoanut meringue pie make the preceding 
 mixture with 12 yolks of eggs and take the whites 
 to beat up for the meringue. Strew cocoanut on 
 top before baking. 
 
16 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 46. 
 
 White Oocoanut Pie. 
 
 The same mixture as the above made very deli- 
 cate and enow white by letiing it become cold and 
 then stirring in instead of yolks 12 or 14 whites of 
 eggs whipped to a froth, and a slight flavoring of 
 rose and oiange. Sift powdered buzbt over when 
 done Good to fill in pnste lined patty pans for 
 gem-tar»8, very light baked. Good to use up white 
 of eggs left over 
 
 47. 
 
 Orange Pie. 
 
 Generally made with the object of using up a sur- 
 plus of perishable fruit. 
 
 Peel half the number of oranges required. With 
 a very sharp knife slice them across the core, throw 
 out the seeds, lay the slices over the bottoms of 
 paste-lined pie pans alternately with slices of un- 
 peeled oranges. Strew sugar over and pour over 
 that a cooking spoonful of red wine. Bake slowly 
 till the juice is become thick eyrup. 
 
 Cocoanut and leraou juice may be mixed with or 
 strewn over the above. Orang^i pi. s can be made 
 by the lemon pie receipis, a? d wish part lemons. 
 
 48. 
 
 Orange Butter Pie. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of best fresh butter. 
 
 9 eggs. 
 
 2 oranges. 
 
 Grate the rinds and squeeze the juice of the OTan- 
 ges into the sugar in a deep saucepan, put in the 
 butter and then the eggs slightly beaten. Set the 
 mixture over the fire and stir it till it becomes thick 
 and ropy, like melted cheese. It may lessen the 
 trouble, and danger of burning on the bottom to set 
 it in a large saucepan containing boiling water. 
 When done beat the mixture with an egg whisk a 
 few minutes. The cooking of this mixture causes it 
 to remain light and thick and rounded in the pies 
 or tarts after baking, instead of filling and becom- 
 ing wixy as it o'herwise would do. Bake in a very 
 Sfow oven or with a pan on the shelf above to ward 
 off the hei\t. 
 
 40. Orange Dariole Filling. Richest. 
 
 Requires deep pans for baking in as it flows over 
 ordinary rims 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 4 oranges. 
 
 10 eggs. 
 
 Grate and squeeze the oranges into the sugs.r, add 
 the butter and eggs and cook the mixture thiik over 
 
 the fire with constant stirring. Let it cool and then 
 
 beat it ligtit before ling the crusts. 
 
 And yet some worthy hopefuls having seen pio 
 edges stand two inches high in distinct flakes while 
 weighing next to nothing, will do their brave en- 
 deavors too, and lay a double edge on theirs, ma- 
 king a band of paste to place on the rim of the plate 
 first, washed with egg, and the proper pie crust laid 
 on lop. That is all wrong. We told them they 
 could not make our hotel pies. For if the airiest 
 crust that can be laid on a pie edge will hardly be 
 Citen is it not folly to double the weight and sub- 
 stance? Puff-paste perfectly made will rise high 
 enough from one layer only from an eighth to a 
 quarter inch thick. If it will not then it will not 
 when doubled in thickness. And, besides, how 
 much valuable time is wasted from better work, 
 putting a useless double edge on the pies. 
 
 50. 
 
 Apple Cream Pie. 
 
 Marlborough Pudding or Pie. 
 
 1 pint of stewed jypples. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 cupful of milk. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 eggs. 
 
 Little sherry wine and nutmeg. 
 
 Mix all together. Bake in crusts. 
 
 51, Apple Custard Pie or Pudding. 
 
 1 quart of dry stewed apples. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Juice and rind of 1 lemon and nutmeg. 
 
 The apples should be stewed with as little water 
 as possible with the steam shut in. Mash them 
 through a strainer. Cook the pulp over the fire 
 with the sugar and butter in and then add the beat- 
 en yolks and flavor. Bake in crusts. 
 
 And where it is so requisite to have the fine flakes 
 of puff-paste lie straight and undisturbed care must 
 be taken in handling the small portions when roll- 
 ing out pie crusts. Green people always will take 
 the trimmings of the last pie and work and kuead 
 and pound and press Jit to death. You musn't do 
 that. Lay the scraps in layers in a pile loose on 
 each other. Cut a chunk square and small from the 
 large piect of paste and lay it on top of the scraps, 
 then roll out to a quarter inch thickness. Now you 
 don't want the bottom crust of the pie to be so thick 
 as that — nobody wants to eat so much soggy under 
 crust — but you do want that thickness for the edge. 
 So double the sheet of paste over on itself in half. 
 
THE A3Sfl:EKICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 17 
 
 and with the end of the rolling pin roll that part 
 that will be the middle of the pie to half the thick- 
 ness. You will of crurse have flour enough about 
 it to prevent sticking together. Then open out the 
 doubled sheet again and you have a hollow thinbot = 
 tomed sheet of pa te just ready to fit the pie pan 
 and with a thick edge lo hold in the custards and 
 lemon mixtures. 
 
 53. 
 
 Apple Pies. 
 
 1. Pare the apples and slice them oflF the cores in- 
 to a bright pan or brass kettle. To every pound al- 
 low on an average a quarter pound of white sugar 
 and a cupful of water. Throw in 6 cloves or some 
 lemon peel for flavor, shut wi h a tight lid and le; 
 stew slowly in the steam. M^sh through a colan 
 der. Bike in open pies. Apfles of poor qua'ity 
 that turn blue in cooking are often improved by the 
 addition of the juice of a lemon. 
 
 2. Apples cored and quartered and stewed in fla 
 vored syrup like preserves without breaking may be 
 filled into shell pies or vol au vents baked sepai-ately, 
 as explained further on. For every pound of the 
 apple quarters allow 6 ounces of sugar and half cup 
 of water with cloves and lemon peel. Let the syr- 
 up boil first, throw in the apple quarters and shut 
 in the steam. Simmer half an hour without stirring 
 them. 
 
 3. Early green apples. Wash and steam them 
 whole. Mash through a colander, aid sugar, but- 
 ter and cinnamoi or nutmeg. Bake with a top 
 crust. Powd red f-ugar over when done. 
 
 4. Sliced apple pie. Use this way only the best 
 ripe cooking apples Pare and core them and slice 
 them thin across the core. Fill paste-lined pie pans, 
 about 2 layers deep. Thinly cover the apple slices 
 with sugar and grate nutmeg over. Put i\ each pie 
 butter gize of a walnut and a large spoonful of wa 
 ter. Bake without a top crust slowly and dry. 
 The apples become transparent and half candied. 
 
 53, Pineapple Cream Pie. 
 
 1 quart of pineapple either grated, or chopped 
 and pounded. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 cupful of cream. 
 
 12 yolks of eggs. 
 
 C )ok the pineapp'e pulp and sugar together a few 
 minutes, add the cream and the yolks well beaten, 
 bake in thin crusts. The same ingredients all stirr- 
 ed over the fite till cooked thick, make a pineapple 
 cream to spread on layer cakes, and fill tarts. 
 
 54. 
 
 Cranberries have a better color cooked with the 
 sugar. To a quart of cranberries allow a half pound 
 of sugar, and water to cover the bottom of the ves- 
 sel only, cook in their own steam about half an hour. 
 
 They scorch easily — should not be set in the hottest 
 place. The juice that can be strained from them 
 without mashing makes the brightest jelly when 
 cod. Mash the rest through a colander for pies. 
 
 Strawberries should be put in the crusts raw and 
 sugar strewn over. Canned strawberries shouid be 
 strained from the juice and that boiled down with 
 sugar to about half, and the fruit returned to it. 
 
 Peaches use same as apples, also for peach custard 
 pie. The peach kernels stewed with the fruit 
 heighten the flavor. 
 
 Gooseberries green require 12 ounces of sugar to 
 a pound of fruit; they should be partly mashed 
 with the back of a spoon for better mingling with 
 the sweet. 
 
 Plums and such large fruits are not serviceable 
 unless cut or broken. A can of currants or whortle- 
 berries will make five pies and the same sized can 
 of plums only two or three. 
 
 Quinces give an improved flavor to apples stewed 
 with them. Quince pies may be made by grating 
 the fruit and mixing with sugar, or by stewing 
 sliced quinces wish water and lemon juice and then 
 adding sugar to m ike a thin syrup. Best for shell 
 pies. Bartlett pears make good pies. Some other 
 varieties can be used like quinces. 
 
 Rhubarb should be cooked with only water 
 enough to cover the bottom of the kettle, a half 
 pound of brown sugar to a pound of the stalks 
 spread over the top and the steam shut in 
 
 Raspberries, currants, blackberries and all such 
 fruits as are apt lo become all juice should have the 
 same avoidance of water as rhubarb and be cooked 
 in their own steam. 
 
 Bananas and Plantains are made into pies in the 
 South in the same manner as has been directed for 
 sliced apple pies, with mace and wine or brandy 
 added. 
 
 Tomatoes can be used in pies if boiled down with 
 sugar. Scald and peel and let them drain of half 
 their juice. To each pint of draied tomatoes allow 
 4 ounces of sugar and a little bruised race ginger. 
 Stew down thick. 
 
 Figs either fresh or dried can be made into pies, 
 cut up and stewed in syrup with a lemon or two and 
 some butter. 
 
 "That was like Macready at the Palladium. Ed. 
 Forrest he quit the Palladium to go to the Athenae- 
 um, and Ed had been throwing 'em up some jam up 
 punkin pies and a lot of the fellows that get up late 
 n the morning after breakfast hours got to coming 
 and saying 'give me a punkin pie and some cofiee 
 and I can wait till dinner,' and some of *em would 
 eat two regular. So when Ed quit, all the boss 
 could find on the town was Macready. He had to 
 go on the night watch and there was about 75 pies 
 to make before morning. So Mac. he goes to the 
 night head waiter and says he, 'Fruit's all right but 
 
18 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 say, how do you go to work to make a punkin pie? 
 •Well, the head waiter he growls and Bays he 'Oh, 
 what do you take me for? who's hired night o?ok 
 here — ^you or me?' So Mac goes to work and rolls 
 out his pies and opens the cans of punkin and 
 spoons 'em out into the crusts without no sweeten in' 
 nor nothing and bakes 'em off. And along in the 
 morning the fellows began to drop in and one of 
 them gets up on the high stool to the lunch counter 
 and says he 'give me my tn o punkin pies and coffee.' 
 Well, sir, he took a bite and began to oat, and then 
 he stopped with it in bis mouth and studied like, 
 and then he spit it out on the floor and says he 
 what in the Halifax sort of a punkin pie is that any- 
 how. And the pie business was entirely broke up 
 and Macready he got bounced." 
 
 55. Ohooolate Cream Pie. 
 
 Penohonettes au Chocolat. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 2 ounces of chocolate grated. 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 5 yolks of eggs. 
 
 8 whites of eggs and 4 ounces of sugar for mer- 
 ingue, and vanilla to flavor. 
 
 Boil the milk with the chocolate in it, and a little 
 of the sugar to prevent burning on the bottom, mix 
 the flour and rest of the sugir thoroughly together 
 dry and beat them into it Then add the butter and 
 the yolks well beaten and take the mixture immedi- 
 ately from the fire. Bake in thin crusts of puff- 
 paste. Whip the whites of eggs firm while the pies 
 are baking, add the sugar and vanilla ; spread over 
 the pies still hot in the oven and bake with the oven 
 door open a few minutes. 
 
 56. Lemon Cream Pie* 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and rind, or lemon extract. 
 Pinch of salt. 
 
 Mike as directed in preceding receipt, without the 
 chocolate 
 
 57. Cream Confiture, for Pies and Tarts. 
 
 1 pint of cream. 
 
 10 eggs. 
 
 1 pint of red currant jelly. 
 
 Warm the jelly enough to just melt it and beat 
 into it the eggs and cream Bake in thin puff-paste 
 crusts. Powdered sugar over when done. 
 
 68. Custard Pie. Ordinary. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 6 or 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 Nutmeg, lemon or vanilla flavoring. 
 
 Beat the eggs and sugar together, add the milk 
 gradually, flavor, and bake in deep paste.lined pie 
 pans with high edges. The thisker the custard the 
 better the pie. 
 
 59. Harvest Pie. Vinegar Pie, 
 
 Made without eggs or milk: 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 ^ pint of vinegar. 
 
 1 pound of brown sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful of ground cinnamon. 
 
 Boil the water, vinegar and butter together. Mix 
 the flour, sugar and cinnamon together dry and 
 dredge them into the boiling liquid, beating at the 
 same time. Take it off the fire as soon as partly 
 thickened, before it boils. May be baked either with 
 or without a top crust. 
 
 60. Butter Pie. 
 
 1 quart of milk or cream. 
 
 8 ounces of fresh butter. 
 
 1 pound of white sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 Boil the milk with the butter in it. Mix the flour 
 and sugar together dry, stir them into the boiling 
 mi^k and take the mixture from the fire as soon as 
 it begins to thicken. Bake like a custard in a crust. 
 
 61. 
 
 Corn Starch Custard Pie or Arrow- 
 root Pudding. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 2 ounces of starch. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 eggs. Lemon or vanilla flavoring. 
 
 Mix the starch with a little of the milk cold. Boil 
 the rest of the milk with the sugar in it, stir in the 
 starch, then the butter and eggs, and take it from 
 the fire immediately. Bake in crusts. 
 
 62. Cream Curd Pie. 
 
 1 pound of dry cheese curd (product of 4 quarts 
 of milk curdled with rennet). 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 4 whole eggs and 6 yolks. 
 1 cupful of milk. 
 
THE AMERIOAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 19 
 
 4 ounces of currants* 
 Nutmv'g orange or other flavoring. 
 Mash th^ curd through a seive and mix in the 
 other ingredients. Bake in crusts. 
 
 63. Potato Cream Pie. 
 
 1 pound of mashed potatoes. 
 
 8 ounces of white sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 eggs 
 
 1 capful of mixed milk and brandy or wine 
 
 Bail good mealy potatoes and mash them through 
 a seive. Mix the butter with them while warm, then 
 the sugar, milk and flavoring. Separate the eggs and 
 beat both yolks and whites quite light and stir 
 them in just before baking. Bake in crusts. Sift 
 powdered sugar over when done. 
 
 64. Sweet Potato Pies. 
 
 1. Make by the preceding receipt, using sherry 
 wine instead of brandy. They need careful baking 
 of a light colar, to be good. Powdered sugar over. 
 
 2. Sice cooked sweet potatoes into the crusts 
 strew sugar over plentifully, and broken blades of 
 mace, and small lumps of butter. In each pie pour 
 half cupful of wine. Bake slowly. 
 
 65. Pumpkin Transparent Pie. 
 
 Made without milk or eggs. 
 
 2 pounds of pumpkin — or 1 quart. 
 
 1 p )uad of sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 Flavoring either of lemon rind, cloves or nutmeg. 
 
 The pump'iin must be dry, either baked or 
 steamed. Mash it through a strainer, mix the eugir 
 and butter with it and let simmer at the side of the 
 range to become thick. Fiavor, and bake in crusts. 
 
 66. Pumpkin Pie, Cheap. 
 
 2 pounds of dry mashed pumpkin. 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 2 ounces of butfer. 
 2 eggs. 
 
 1 cupful of milk. 
 Little ground cinnamon. 
 
 67. Pumpkin Pie, 
 
 2 pounds of pumpkin— Slewed dry. 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 1 cup of milk. 
 
 Ginger, cinnamon, or nutmeg. 
 Beat the eggs light aud stir them in after every 
 thing else is mixed. 
 
 68. Pumpkin or Squash Custard. 
 
 Make a custard of eggs, a quart of milk, and 
 sugar, and mix mashed pumpkin with it to suit — 1 
 quart of mashed pumpkin is about right. 
 
 69. Brown Squash Pie. 
 
 2. pounds of dry mashed squash — a quart. 
 
 8 ounces of molasses. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 eggs. Ginger and allspice. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 Mix the butter with the squash while still warm, 
 I hen the molasses and rest of the ingredients. With 
 the right kind of molasses or part black molasses 
 and part sugar, and spice skillfully proportioned 
 this variety proves to be a favorite. 
 
 70. Allowing that is not strictly in the line of 
 hotel fellows* duty to pass opinions wpon manners 
 aid ways people have but considering the many as- 
 persions that are cast upon pie and its friends, may 
 we not ask one question — it is not more American- 
 like to like pie and say you like pie, and make it 
 big and make it good, than to beat about the bu^h 
 and try to hide an inordinate admiration of pie 
 under such names as darioles, bouchees, mirlitons, 
 flans, vol-au'veats, tourtes, tartelettes and a lot more 
 as the French do, and turnovers, puflFs and tarts like 
 the E ig'ish? You will find if you look thai Mr. 
 Cliva Newcome, in The Newcomes, when a b y at col- 
 lege was remarkably fond of raspberry tarts and it 
 took all hii pocket money and much that he man- 
 aged to get from a friend or two besides to purchase 
 them, and there is nothing sardonic in Mr. Tbacke^ 
 ray'ssfflteraentof that not uncommon trait of his. But 
 those raspberry tarts are not to be conf -unded for a 
 minute with the indescribab'e English household pie— 
 the tar! 8 weie and are neither more nor leps — exc?pt 
 in size — than our American open pie?. Could Mr. 
 Clive be blamed for loving them? Why even Amer- 
 ican collegians are not above such a weakness as 
 that. 
 
 Tarte, tourte, tart is the European for the Ameri- 
 can pie, made open — that is without a top crust — or 
 at most with only strips across. The tart proper is 
 not larger than the palm of the hand, and is made 
 in patty pans or small pie pans of any form, ova', 
 oblong, square or round. People like pie for supper, 
 and country hotels with the old style of long table 
 set them on it. but Fashion does not allow it. But 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 you can circumvent Fashion (and ane will be secret- 
 ly pleased thereby) by serving tarts both for lunch - 
 ton and supper. 
 
 Now tarls or tiny pies are tedious to make in 
 numbers and advantage must be takeo, get the shal- 
 low pafty-pans fastened together a dozen in a bunch. 
 Roll out the paste to an eighth of an inch thickness 
 in a large sheet, and cut out flats with a biscuit cut- 
 ter or any oval or other cutter that will match your 
 patty-pans. Press the paste with the thumbs to 
 the shape, cut off the surplus even with the edges 
 and put in a spoonful of any kind of pie fruit or of 
 the mixtures just preceding, or of the various creams, 
 apple or cocoanut cream etc , and you can give pie 
 for supper luncheon and tea and Fashion will tever 
 be the wiser. 
 
 Ihe small tartlets using up the pie paste remain- 
 ing after dinner and taking but a teaspoonful of fill- 
 late cream, puff-paste is not the best. The annexed i^g make a desirable addition to or substitute for 
 
 cake in the baskets for supper. The next are larger 
 cutters for oyster patties and vol au- vents of birds 
 etc 
 
 For some of the pie mixtures such as the choco. 
 
 ^8 a kind specially made for "small bakings.' 
 
 11. 
 
 Tart Paste 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 ounces of powdered sugar. 
 2 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 ^ cupful of water. The annexed show forms of bouchees and tartlets 
 
 Rub the butter into the flour, add the eggs, sugar that it might be difficult to make plain in words on. 
 
 and salt with the water, mix and knead it smooth. My. The three lower figures are intended to show 
 <y(g^ I how the puff-paste is folded, and the three upper 
 
 Tartlets, Bouchees and Vol-au-vents. ^'^ ^'■'^^'^^ *^'®^ ***^*"g- 
 
 The fine leaf paste or puff-paste being ready there 
 is nothing easier to make than vol-au-vent tartlets 
 like those shown below. Roll out the paste to about 
 a quarter of an inch in thickness, or even thinner, 
 cut out with the double cutter, place the tartlets in 
 pans like biscuits and bake in a brisk oven. They 
 rise to three or four times the heighth of the paste 
 they are cut from. Lift out the little lid made by 
 the cutter in the middle or else push it down and 
 fill the CHvity with a spoonful of red currant jelly or 
 lemon honey or any kind of fruit or preserves. 
 
 The tin. smiths make and keep for sale the double 
 cutters that cut out rings for doughnuts and jum- 
 bies, like two of these in the cut with the inside cut- 
 ter on a level with the outside and cutting the mid- 
 dle of the paste clear through, but the vol-au-vent 
 cutters have to be made to order. The inner cut- 
 ting edge is a sixteenth of an inch below the outer 
 and only marks out a lid. 
 
 NO. 2. 
 
 NO. 1. 
 
 N03. 
 
 1- For the form shown in the middle roll out the 
 finest leaf paste to about an eighth of an inch in 
 thickness. Cut it in squares of about 2 J inches and 
 fold over the four corners to meet in the middle 
 where there should be a drop of water placed to 
 make them slick. Stamp out a round piece of pasta 
 like a lozenge and lay on the center. Brush over 
 with a little beaten egg-and-water without wetting 
 the edges of the paste, and bake. The shell can be 
 partly hollowed out when done, and filled with any 
 
THE AISIERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 21 
 
 kind of mince or sweetmeat. 
 
 2. For the left hand figure roll out the same as 
 the preceding and cut and fold over the same and 
 then cut pieces out of the four sides to make the 
 shape shown. These leaf tartlets open out and rise 
 as high in baking as the middle figure. Fill th® 
 hollows with bright frait jelly 
 
 3. The three cornered bouchees or tarts have the 
 filling — either mince or salpican, or yellow or red 
 conserve or jelly-baked in them. Roll out a sheet 
 of puff-paste and cut out like biscuits, with a large 
 cutter. Place a teaspoonful of the filling in each 
 wet the edge of the paste and pinch it up in the 
 shape of a three-cornered hat. Brush over with 
 fgg-and water and dredge with granulated sugar if 
 W a sweet tart. Bake in a rather slack oven. 
 
 Beside the foregoing, other shapes may be made 
 by stamping out the s 'iet of paste with an oval cut- 
 ter and doubling the a's over like French split 
 rolls, and by doubling ever square cuts. These 
 open up like the leaves of a book and jelly or pre- 
 serves can be inserted in the cavities. . 
 
 T3. American Popular Ices. 
 
 The combinations following are not too dreadfully 
 original in idea to be eminently proper "according 
 to Hoyle," neither are they copies. They are inno- 
 cent American variations of the class of European 
 "iced-puddings," and bombes a la Viennoise. They 
 are popular ices in the sense that they are among 
 the tbirsgs which make hotel tables popular with 
 high-priced people. They are among the super-ex- 
 cellerces and quiet gurprises which give — but there, 
 we are getting beyond our depth — what we do want 
 to say is that served individually they can be man- 
 aged easily eioughin the hotels which do not em- 
 ploy a confectioner or men specially detailed to 
 make the ices, but where the pastry, cook has to be 
 a man-of-all-work; while the moulding in 'bombes" 
 involves a great expenditure of time and freezing 
 material. These have all been well tried and often. 
 The simplest and best methods of moulding, froth- 
 ing, freezing etc. will also be found explained among 
 the commoner ices further on. 
 
 Hastorskill Ices. 
 
 Combination of rose pink cream with pale green 
 ice containing grapes and almonds. Two freezers 
 lequired. 
 
 14, Rose Ice Cream* 
 
 I quart of cream. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 A pinch of palt, coloring and flavoring. 
 
 Take off a third of the cream, the thickeet, from 
 the top, and keep it cold to be whipped to frothy 
 while the other is freezing. Boil the rest of the 
 cream with (he sugar in it, which prevents burning. 
 Beat the eggs in a bowl as light as if for sponge 
 cake, pour the boiling cream and sugar to them and 
 cook about a minute together — enough to slightly 
 thickea but not boil. Strain into a freezer immedi- 
 ately, add a few drops of rose extract and some 
 bright red fruit syrup such as the surplus juice from 
 crimson strawberries in sugar, or else some drops of 
 red coloring, to make the ere im light pink. Freeze, 
 and when nearly finished whip the reserved cream 
 to froth and beat it in. 
 
 When cream thick enough to whip cannot be had 
 keep out the whites of the eggs and use the same 
 way instead. 
 
 75. Grape and Almond Ice. 
 
 6 pints of sweet white muscat grapes free from 
 stems. 
 
 1 pint of angelica or other sweet wine. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 large ripe lemon. 
 
 1 pound of almonds blanched. 
 
 Stew three pints of the grapes with the water and 
 sugar and when tender rub the pulp through a 
 strainer into a freezer, together with the syrup. 
 Add the wine and the lemon cut in th ck short 
 slices with the seeds carefully excluded, and 
 freeze the mixture. At the last drop in the 
 blanched almonds and after a few more turns of the 
 freezer add the remaining 2 pints of grapes previous- 
 ly made cold on ice. C^ver down the freezer that 
 the ice may become well f ozen. 
 
 To serve individually make a border of the 
 cream with the spoon in broad champagne glasses or 
 fancy ice glasses, and in the middle pile the grape 
 and almond sherbet. 
 
 For fancy moulded creams line the moulds with 
 the first part and fill the centers with the second. 
 
 YO. 
 
 A favorite form of bombe is frozen in a mould in 
 the shape of a little glass jug with handle and all 
 compl< te. This is coated inside with a translucent 
 fruit or flavored syrup ice and the filling is of, for ex- 
 ample, a maraschino ice cream, or one dotted with 
 strawberries. V hen the bombe well frozen is taken 
 out of its mould and set on the table on its folded 
 napkin, you are, if you please, to knock off the neck 
 of the ju^ and dip out the contents. It is surmised 
 that it is called a bomb because it goes off pretty 
 
2'^ 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 soon amongst a whole table full of people; but the 
 name dees not suit our bills of fare. The ice will 
 go off better when it is not called a bomb. 
 
 Niagfara Ices. 
 
 Combination of rich yellow frozen custard with a 
 pink sherbet with coooanut and oranges. Two free- 
 zers required. 
 
 77, Yellow Frozen Custard. 
 1 qu irt of cream or milk. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 12 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Vanilla bean or extract to flavor. 
 Boil the cream with the sugar and vanilla bean 
 
 in it Beat the yolks light and pour the boiling 
 cream to them. Set on the fire again for a minute. 
 The custard will not froth in the freezer if cooked 
 much, but should be taken off and strained aa soon 
 as slightly thickened. Freeze and beat light. 
 
 78. Orange and Cocoanut Ice* 
 1 pittt of port wine, 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 8 ounces of desiccated cocoanut — the sugared kind 
 
 free from oil must be used. 
 4 oranges. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 Red fruit juice or^coloring. 
 M*ke a hot syrup of the water and sugar. Slice 
 
 the oranges and lemons small and throw away the 
 seeds, put the slices in a bowl with the desiccated 
 cocoanut, pour the hot syrup over them and let steep 
 a short time. Then strain the flavored syrup into a 
 freezer, add the wine and coloring to make it light 
 pink and freeze. M'ike the scalded orange and 
 lem)n slices and cocoanut cold on ice and stir them 
 into the sherbet when nearly frozen, then pack down 
 the freezer to freeze the contents firm. 
 
 To serve individually place the frozen custard in 
 champagne glasses, spread out to make a border, 
 and the sherbet pile up in the middle. 
 
 And "iced-pudding" is no better name, although 
 the language containing no other for such a com- 
 pound, the English have had to use it. But their 
 case is different, they have deep rooted respect for 
 ancieot pudding, and ice cream does not seem to be 
 degrrtded by being so calif d. Sydney Smith in es 
 
 with our people's association of ideas. Iced pud- 
 ding is base, it is food; ices, ice-creams, are noble, 
 hey arc etherial, they are deliciouo. 
 
 Monitou Ices. 
 
 Rocky Mountain scarlet wild raspberries iia ioei 
 and a white cream. Two freezers required. 
 79. White Starch Ice Cream. 
 1 quart of rich milk. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 2 rounded tablespoonfuls of corn starch. 
 4 whites of eggs. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of lemon extract. 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it. Mix the 
 
 starch in a cup with a little cold milk and stir it in 
 Take from the fire, and put in the butter and beat 
 the mixture till that is melted. Strain, cool and fla 
 vor it and freeze. W hen nearly finished freezing 
 whip the whites to froth and stir them into the 
 cream, then beat it with a paddle till it fills the 
 freezer, and is as light as foam and white as snow. 
 80. Scarlet Raspberry Ice, 
 
 3 or 4 pints of Rocky Mountain wild raspberries. 
 1^ pounds of sugar. 
 
 2 pints of water. 
 
 3 whites cf eggs. 
 Pick out and reserve about a third of the berries 
 
 to be dropped whole into the ice at last. 
 
 Make a syrup of the sug^r and one pint of water, 
 pour it hot upon the larger portion of raspberries in 
 
 bowl and then rub them through a strainer togeth- 
 er with the syrup, and use the other pint of water 
 to help the pulp through when dry. Freeze, and 
 add the whites of eggs beaten to froth when nearly 
 finished and after beatipg up again drop in the 
 whole raspberries and pack down the freezer with 
 more ice and salt to remain till wantedo 
 
 Serve the white cream in glasses or saucers with 
 the red^ice piled in the hollow middle. 
 
 81, 
 
 Frozen Fruit in Ices. 
 
 Broadly speaking it may be said, everybody that 
 likes fruit ices or sherbets likes the frozen pieces of 
 fruit scattered through them as well. But there are 
 differences which it wou'd be tedious to point in 
 
 planation of the exact stage of his convalescence each case depending upon the degree of sweetness 
 wrote to afriend that he was past the gruel point, past of the fruit. Strawberries con'.aining little or- no 
 panada, and had just arrived &t pudding. Thackeray sugar will freeze in a strawberry water ice too un- 
 could write of puddings, as did Herrick, Burns, By- ' reasonably solid to be good, while sweet Tokay and 
 ron even, and there]is something about solid pudding Muscat grapes, sweet ripe cherries, mellow pears 
 in Shakspeare, but that does not help the matter and the like will never become too hard because the 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 28 
 
 sugar in them prevents it. The sweeter an article, 
 whether cream or fruit, the harder it is to freeze. 
 To keep the fruits from this too solid congealing 
 some of the French ways steep them in alcoholic li- 
 quers — methods which we merely mention for infor- 
 mation without believing them necessary to practice 
 In case of a peach ice, then, it may do very well 
 when the peaches are very sweet and ripe to drop 
 th^ quarters in at the end of the freezing without 
 any preparation; but if the peiches instead are in- 
 clined to sourness stew them in thick syrup withou 
 bre-^^ing the quarters and drop in the ice after first 
 making them cold. 
 
 Tahoe Ices. 
 
 Red grape ice and white cherries in cream. Two 
 freezers required. 
 
 82. Red Grape Ice. 
 
 6 pin's of red Tokay grapes (4 pounds.) 
 
 IJ pints of wafer. 
 
 IJ pounds of sugar. 
 
 1 lemon and 1 orange. 
 
 4 whites of eggs. 
 
 Select about a fourth part of the grapes to be 
 dropped whole into the ice at last. Scald the rest 
 in a syrup made cf the sug<ir and part of the water 
 and rub the pulp through a strainer together with 
 the syrup and pour over the skins the remaining 
 portion of water, add the jiice of the lemon and 
 reeze as usual. If to line a mould the whites of 
 eggs may be omitted and a little red fruit juice or 
 coloring can be added to make a more positive color, 
 but for serving in glasses add the whites whipped 
 firm and beat the ice till smooth and foamy. Cut 
 the orange in strips, without peeling, and strew 
 them in the ice, also the reserved grapes and cover 
 down to freeze firm. 
 
 83. White Cherry Cream. 
 
 1 quart of pure sweet cream. 
 
 8 or 4 pints of California white wax cherries. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 ^ pint of water. 
 
 Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and water, 
 drop in the cherries and let them simmer in it 
 about 15 minutes, without stirring or breaking. 
 Then strain the flavored pyrup into the freezer and 
 set the fruit on ice, to be mixed in at last. Add the 
 quart of cream to the syrup in the freezer, freeze 
 and beat up well, then stir in the cherries and pack 
 down with more ice and salt. 
 
 Artificial ice made at a cost of one dollar a ton; 
 ice cream same price. *'It were a consummation de- 
 voutly to be wished." We are thinking not of the 
 
 finished product after it has left our hands — perhaps 
 the young gentlemen who take the young ladies out 
 en summer evenings would not wish it quite so 
 cheap — but of some easy and perfect process of freez- 
 ing it such as is condensed and summed up in the 
 idea conveyed by that rate of cheapness. For few 
 know how difficult it is to get the drudgery of ice- 
 cream freezing done properly, none perhaps but 
 those who have to oversee its preparation along with 
 a number of other skill-demanding productions for 
 the hotel dinner. It is of little avail that we make 
 the cre^m or custard or sherbet good and finely fla- 
 vored if the transformations possible in the freezing 
 process be not skilfully carried out. In freezing, if 
 you know how, you can transform skimmed milk in- 
 to the semblance of cream, and if you don't you can 
 not prevent rich cream from transforming itself into 
 the semblance of skimmed milk. 
 
 Now when they get through with that tedious 
 eleotrio light subdivision perhaps the inventors will 
 subdivide theariificial ice machines so that ice cream 
 can be made in every little house in some less clum- 
 sy and imperfect way than the present with ice and 
 salt. The great obstructionist in ice cream making 
 is the lazy yardman, second pastry-cook or other 
 helper who ought to turn the freezer fast and beat 
 the cream thoroughly, and we want an electrical or 
 chemical machine of some kind to supersede him. 
 
 White Mountain Ices* 
 
 Sweet peaches and cream (Put that little lady the 
 'school marm who once did the copying of some of 
 these receipts happened to be a White Mountain 
 girl herself and when she reached this sett she sur- 
 reptitiously took the name and placed it over anoth- 
 er sett and called these something else, as if sweet 
 peaches and ice-cream was not good enough for the 
 White Mountains or Green Mountains either for that 
 matter. Red grapes indeed! Which sett she chose 
 for White Mountain ices is something that shall nev" 
 er be told. Who, allow us to ask, is runningt his?) 
 Two freezers required. 
 
 84. Vanilla Ice Cream— Best^ 
 
 1 quart of good sweet cream. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 Vanilla flavoring — either 2 tablespoonfuls of the 
 extract or a vanilla bean boiled in a little milk and 
 the milk used to flavor. 
 
 Use a freezer th-xt will hold twice as much or more. 
 Sweeten and flavor the cream and churn it in a pail 
 witha whip-churn till half of it is froth. Pour it 
 into the freezer and freeze it as rapidly as possible. 
 Then take out the inside beater and with a wooden 
 paddle about four feet bng, made like a spade in 
 ! shape but narrow, beat the ice-cream about 15 min- 
 
24 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 utes, or till it fills the freezer. Cover down and 
 pack with more ice and salt. 
 85. Peacli Ice. 
 
 3 pints of peeled mellow peaches. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 pints of water. 
 
 1 large cupful of bright red currant jelly. 
 The kernels of half the peaches. 
 
 4 whites-of eggs. 
 
 The peaches should be choice, yellow or red 
 fleshed and sweet. Half of them are to be cut in 
 pieces as large as cherries, the other half cooked. 
 
 Put the water, sugar, peach kernels and half the 
 peaches on to stew together for a few minutes, mash 
 the fruit with the back of a spoon, put in the currant 
 jelly and then press all (except the kernels) through 
 a strainer. Freeze as usual, add the whipped white . 
 of eggs to to the ice and after beating also mix in the 
 cut peaches. 
 
 Line the moulds wih the cream and fill the center 
 with the peach ice, or serve the cream in glasses or 
 saucers as a border with the peach piled in the 
 middle. 
 
 Some Points on loe-oream and other 
 Ices. 
 
 So I said to Johnny said I, Johnny you're, stuck 
 with this miserable little ice-cream saloon, and the 
 little seventy five dollars you' ve put in is gone sky- 
 wards, don't you know it? And you owe a month's 
 rent beside. And here at the same time are your 
 dollars that ought to be and your tens and hundreds 
 sitting along on the hotel piazzas and riding by and 
 walking right by your forsaken little den, but they 
 won*t come in. Of course they won't. Why should 
 they when you don't know the first rudiments of the 
 business. Johnny, don't you remember when you 
 used to turn the freezers for two mortal hours enough 
 sight slower tlian the tick of your grandfather's 
 clock, when you ought to have been done in twenty 
 or thirty minutes, wasting ice and salt, spoiling the 
 cream and wearing out me? And now you'll go up 
 for want of knowing something. Now if you was 
 dead for instance and a smart boy had this instead 
 it would not be this way. There are bigger resorts 
 than this, don't you know? and some where the 
 confectioneries and all are made under the same 
 roof, but, let me tell you, even there the extra fine 
 creams and ices are in a side show and are extra 
 charges, and more so at all commoner places unless 
 the pastry cook has uncommon ambition to shine. 
 But you take a hotel that's got two hundred summer 
 people, and there's two pastry cooks, but after 
 
 they've worked up their barrel of flour a day In 
 all shapes, and other things in proportion, and hot 
 weather at that, they don't feel much like spreading 
 themselves on fancy creams and ices, and it's the 
 same miserable lemon custard and vanilla oustard 
 sort of frozen any way to put it through at this ho- 
 tel and that hotel, and if the people are asked to 
 visit at the other hotel they are sure to be treated 
 to the same old thing again. Well then they go to 
 the cafe and fine restaurant where these things are 
 made specialties, and that's what you ought to be 
 doing now Johnny if jou knew how. 
 
 But in the first place you don*t have ice-cream on 
 hand half the time and people as they pass say <<oh 
 its of no use, they hardly ever have any there,'* so 
 they quit coming because they don't like to be dis- 
 appointed, you must keep it if you have to make a 
 pint at a time in a quart cup even, as you easily can 
 ifyou understand it, and it positively must be al- 
 ways good, always tip-top, ifyou expect to build up 
 a trade, and it can't be if you make it once a day, 
 in the morning, and keep it all day and night; for 
 the goodness of it is its smoothness and creaminess, 
 but that gets away when the cream is kept long 
 Water in freezing will separate from everything 
 else, so that you get clear ice out of muddy rivers, 
 and the water part of vinegar will treeze and leave 
 the acid part by itself in the center of the barrel; 
 just that way your cream first gets grains of clear ice 
 in it like sand, and by night your customers find 
 rough chunks as big as pipe stems. For the very 
 same reasons good cream cannot be made by letting 
 it stand and freeze itself. It wants rapid work. 
 
 QUICK FREEZINO. 
 
 Now, Johnny, you begin right. Get you a stout 
 oaken box bound with hoop iron ifyou can, to pound 
 the ice small in. It will prove the cheapest way in 
 the long run, for you must pound the ice small to 
 do quick freezing and cheap, and no way beats 
 pounding it with an old axe head in a deep box. 
 You may turn your freezer two hours and do no 
 good if it has only Isrge lumps of ice just touching it 
 with their edges. It is the salt acting on the ice 
 and releasing the cold by melting it that causes your 
 cream to freeze and the quicker the melting takes 
 place through thorough mixing of salt in fine ice the 
 quicker your cream is done, and coarse salt is bet 
 ter than fine because it won't pack in dead lumps, 
 and because it grinds the ice away. We are not 
 caring for strict science, only for the effects as they 
 appear. So the quickest possible freezing is done 
 with snow and ice mixed together. And, Johnny, 
 don't you remember how snorting mad you used to 
 be when I would come down on you for about tw« 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 25 
 
 Beconds while you was see sawing away at Ihatfreez^ 
 er and say "why in thunder don't yru let the salt 
 water out?" — and when I came again and found the 
 water out it was "what in thunder did yi>u let all 
 the water out for?" 
 
 Well, Johnny, I have no meringues in the oven 
 DOW and I'll stop to explain. Your cream never 
 freezes much except where the brine of the melted 
 ice and salt touches the freezer, as the brine rises 
 •rtside you will find the freezing mark rises inside; 
 but when there gets to be too much water the ice ri- 
 ses and floats and the bottom of the freez?r b g'ns 
 to melt agiin. You want to keep letting out a little 
 water from the bung-hole near the bottom of the 
 freezing tub but not too much, and always keep push 
 ingand packing the ice down arourd the freezer to 
 keep it solid and touching both bottom and sides. In 
 this way you can do freezing in twenty or thirty 
 minutes better than in two hours. The amount of 
 salt you want is about one bucket of salt to five of 
 broken ice. Half fill your freezing tub with ice 
 first, then begin putting in scoopfuls of salt with the 
 ice, and it will work itself down. Always finish cfi 
 the top with a layer of salt. Don't you see now 
 what an idiot you was not to understand these little 
 things, and the quality of the cream for two hundred 
 high-toners depending on your ignorance? In order 
 to get the little brine sometimes in the dead of win- 
 ter when everything was too cold I have had to pour 
 hot water on the ice in the freezing tub to start it. 
 These points apply to all sorts of freezers that use 
 ice and salt. The noted cooks across the sea who 
 nvented some of the fine ices that you are going to 
 make after awhile Johnny, never patronized our 
 new patent freezers but did and perhaps still do their 
 fine work with the old kind turned by hand. 
 
 CBEAM AND ITS SUBSTITUTES. 
 
 And, Johnny, you don't need real cream so much 
 as you need a thorough beating. If a man that knew 
 how was to open next door in opposition toyou he might 
 take milk and you might take cream, and soon you 
 would hear customers say "ah, the cream next door 
 is the best, it certainly must be made of the purest 
 cream, you can taste it, it is so rich!" when in fact 
 it would be its foamy smoothness and delicacy that 
 gave them the impression, while your real cream 
 would be coarse with grains of ice, and heavy with 
 sugar. It does not make nearly so much difference 
 how you make your cream as how you freeze it and 
 keep it. Why you may take a sweet water ice, es- 
 pecially a white cherry ice, or a peach ice \7ill do, 
 some kind with the sweet pulp mashed in it, and 
 make it according to disectiens it will be so white, 
 
 so soft and foamy, and will increiee in bulk so much 
 it can't be told from cream except by melting which 
 I want to say shows that it isn't the cream itsel 
 that makes the quality, since sweetened fruit juice 
 will do so well, and better yet if mixed with cream 
 like our cherries in cream some way back, but ttie 
 method. So having prepared your cream, custard, 
 or sherbet put it in a freezer large enough to hold 
 twice as much and strive to make the ice fill the 
 freezer when done. 
 
 The greatest help but not the only material for 
 the purpope is seme raw but light-beaten white of 
 eggs. The Freuch cooks, some of them, use what 
 they call Italian meringue, which is aboiiing sugar 
 yrup made of six runces of sugar, poured into four 
 whites well whipped. If anyone who has tri d has 
 fuund a difference in effect between that and the raw 
 whites I will not gainsay their word, but, Johnny, y u 
 will find the shorter way good enough and it saves su- 
 gar from wl at 'm already generally too sweet. So when 
 your ice is frozon mix in the whipped whites, and if 
 it is a patent f.eezer turn it as fast as you can til 
 y u see the white ice forcing its way out at the freezf 
 er lid. That is if you want that sort, but if it is on- 
 ly a demi-glace leave out the whites, like the pink 
 part of our Niagara ices, where the white desiccated 
 cocoanut can be seen powdered all through as it 
 could not be if the sherbet was beaten to whiteness 
 with egg. 
 
 SAVE THE SUGAR 
 
 And don't make the mistake tf using too much su- 
 gar. You must make a profit, and sugar is an ex 
 pease in two ways, in its cost at first and then in 
 ice and salt for the more sugar^ in your creim the 
 more ice it will take to freeze it. This you know is 
 for common, though you want to be posted for fan- 
 cy work too. When you go to Boston or Philadel- 
 phia, Johnny, you'll find them advertising "Vieina 
 ices," bombes, bisquitsglacees, etc. If made "accord- 
 icg to Hoyle" these Vienna ices have a pound of su- 
 gar in every quart of rich cream, and the rule for 
 fruit ices is a pound and a half to a quart. Just 
 think of it — a cupful of granulated sugar in two 
 cupfuls of thick cream, and the fruit ices and sor 
 be! s all syrups heavier than soda syrups. When 
 these are well frozen they are more of frozen con- 
 fectioneries, or candies made by cold instead of 
 heat then they are light refreshments. They are in- 
 tended to be shaped in moulds and to have a good 
 deal of solidity. Your rule for common ice-cream 
 should be not more than half a pound of sugar to 
 each quart of milk and three quarters of a pound to 
 each quart of fruit ice or sherbet, and Johnny, 
 though I would not write it so in a receipt for any- 
 
 
26 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 body, for it might seem stingy, between you and me 
 I think six ounces ot sugar to eaoh quart of milk is 
 enough for the ice-cream that is only a light refresh- 
 ment that people may oat plenty of without hurting 
 themselves. They don't want food, but frozen per- 
 fume. 
 
 I got a lesson in popular ice-cream making when 
 I was a boy that has lasted me for comparison of 
 different fellows* wajs ever since, at a gaily decora 
 ted tent at New Orleans, on the levee and facicg 
 Tchoupitoulas f treet, where their cream was sold 
 as fast as tickets for a circus, handed cut in glasses 
 piled high, three or four colors and flavors, and as 
 many men freezing and beating, and as many more 
 gelling and forever yelling out, "Come up with an 
 other freezer on the red," and "como up with an- 
 other freezer on the yaller." Their cream was 
 light, and cheap and plentiful. It was late ia May, 
 and all the iee they need had come in ship loads 
 from the north. They didn't sit down and see-saw 
 and Johnny, I don't think they used over six ounces 
 of sugar to a quart. But they had fine flavorings, 
 and you donH think they had any real cream or 
 wanted any, do you? 
 
 ANi'IBILIOUS ICE-CBEAM. 
 
 And you need not go into bankruptcy either 
 merely because the big hotels are getting what little 
 cream there is to be had and you can get none. 
 They don't even get enough for coffee, after all. 
 Some restaurant keepers buy the milk, skim it for 
 the cream and trust to selling off the skimmed milk 
 or part of it, so as to get their pure cream for freez- 
 ing not soured and mouldy as country gathered 
 cream often is, but that plan is not practicable for 
 ice-cream for thousands at a resort. Besides, who 
 wants cream? you see these reeorts getting more 
 crowded every year and more hotels and Iwirger ones 
 being built, and that shows that the people find it 
 pleasant living at them, but they wouldn't if they 
 had the blues and felt tired and drowsy all the time 
 as they would be if they were made bilious and dys- 
 peptic with double cream and sugar. There is noth- 
 ing 30 bad for the health and spirits as real buttery 
 cream taken at the end of a full meal. Let the count, 
 ry people who have nothing to do but sleep eat the 
 cream, but you give the resorters light refreshment 
 and if your wares are well made they will come 
 again after they have walked and danced and rolled 
 ten pins. 
 
 GELATINE IN CBEAM. 
 
 It is reckoned quite a triclr too, to put gelatine in 
 your milk cr boiled custard aod gelatine is nice 
 enough as f«r as that goes, but somehow, John- 
 ny, I find myself always letting it alone, though I 
 don't know what T might do in compe ition with 
 others. Gelatine gives body to the mi? k and makes 
 it BO it can be beaten up mo^e light and fio'hy and 
 the cream with ge'atine in will not melt down so 
 quickly. It is a good enough rule to use gelatine 
 
 in milk and white of eggs in water ices, punches and 
 so forth. The effect cf both articles is about the 
 same, but gelatine is the most irjuble But you 
 have to be very careful ab !ut the quantity of gela- 
 tine used for if you don't look out it will set your 
 cnam like b'anc-mange or jelly. One ounce to three 
 quarts is the highest you can use, and it must be 
 well dissolved in warm Uiilk before putting in. 
 
 OBDINABY ICE-Cr EAM. 
 
 You will see some ice-cream makers put raw yolks 
 of eggs in the cream because, they have found that 
 cooking the eggs in it destroys the frothing quality. 
 I dont like that either, and I compromise by making 
 a boiled sarch custard with scant one ounce of 
 8 arch to each quart of milk, and beating two or 
 three, or at most four yolks to a quart light in a 
 deep pan and pouring the scaMing custard to them 
 which h)lf cooks the yolks and makes a custard 
 that can be churned to a froth if wanted. 
 
 When you make a custard that way it saves ice to 
 cook only half the milk with all the enriching ingre- 
 dients in and pour the other half cold to it after- 
 wards. When you boil milk always boil the sugar 
 in it, and that will prevent scorching on the bottom. 
 Now, Johnny, brace up and go to'wrrk, and when 
 you get as far as moulding ice creams for party din- 
 ners we will talk again. But that heavy iron scrap- 
 er you have got made by a blacksmith is notjirui table, 
 people of fine perceptions c^n taste iron in cream, be- 
 sides you are liable to drive it through the bottom 
 of your freezer and spoil all. The largest size flexi- 
 ble palette knife is the best thing to loosen the fro- 
 zen cream from the. sides of your old fashioned 
 freezer, and for the beating up of the cream make 
 jourself a paddle of hard wood as long as a spade, 
 but light and narrow; one that you can stand up 
 wi h and have a good hold on to churn and beat 
 with both hands. 
 
 FLAVOKINO 
 
 Lemon and vanilla are the common popular flavors 
 and lemon is the commonest of the two. Ui-e of 
 them about a large basting spoonful of the extract to 
 each gallon of cream, remembering, however, that 
 there is the common, the doub'e and the triple extract 
 of which latter of course less ought to do. " hen you 
 get to doing a big business you will have the pleasure 
 of offering yijur customers acho'ca of as many flavors 
 of cream as there are of soda syrups. But all 
 flavors except lemon and vanilla must be used very 
 sparingly, a teaspoonful of pineapple, strawberry, 
 pear and the like generally being as good as a large 
 spoonful of the otho'-s, and of rose extr ict a few 
 drops may do. Most of the flavorings excepting 
 lemon, vanilla, rose, cinnamon, and nutmeg are 
 made from orris root and butyric ether — which is 
 obtained from rancid butter — and there is no won- 
 der if the popular taste approves of them only in 
 very small allowances. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 27 
 
 86. Frozen Nesselrode Pudding. 
 
 Glace Nesselrode or iced pudding, A frozen cus- 
 tard made of pounded chestnuts, with fruit and fla- 
 vorings : 
 
 1 pound of large chestnuts — about 40. 
 
 1 pint of rich boiled custard. 
 
 1 cup sweet cream. 
 
 2 ounces citron. 
 
 2 ounces sultana raisins. 
 
 2 ounces stewed pineapple. 
 
 i cupful of maraschino. 
 
 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. 
 
 Pinch of salt in the chestnut pulp. 
 
 Slit the shells of the chestnuts, boil them half an 
 hour, peel clean, and pound the nuts to a paste, and 
 rub it through a coarse sieve, moistening with 
 cream. Then mix it with the boiled custard. Freeze 
 this mixture, and when firm whip the cup of cream, 
 and stir it in and freeze again. Then add the citron 
 cut in shreds, the stewed or candied pineapple, like- 
 wise the raisins, maraschino, and vanilla extract. 
 Beat up and freeze again, and either serve in ice 
 cream plates out of the freezer, or pack the cream 
 in a mold, and when well frozen send to table 
 whole, turned out of the mold on to a folded napkin 
 on a di£h. 
 
 The foregoing makes about enough to fill one of 
 those brick molds that have a large and deep 
 stamped fruit pattern in the lid and when frozen 
 firm it can be sliced into from 12 to 16 portions. 
 When chestnut! are not convenient some of the large 
 cafes use the ready prepared pounded aUnonds or 
 walnuts that may be bought by the can at the con- 
 fectioners' supply stores, and various additions or 
 substitutions of green candied fruits are employed to 
 make a handsome appearing compound without 
 changing its general character Should be trebled in 
 quantity for dinner for fifty. 
 
 See No. 320 for another variety recently added, 
 but crowded out of place. 
 
 87, 
 
 Diplomatic Ice Pudding. 
 
 1 quart of rich vanilla custard. 
 1 pint thick cream. 
 
 1 cupful of French candied pineapple and cherries, 
 cut small. 
 
 2 dozen lady fingers. 
 
 Freeze the custard as usual for ice cream; whip the 
 cream, put it in and freeze again. 
 
 Take two brick molds and put in a layer of the 
 ice cream, a layer of lady fingers, then some candied 
 fruit, and fill the mold that way, having ice cream 
 for the top layer. Close with paper and the lid, and 
 put in the freezing mixture to stay two or three 
 hours. Manage fhe same way as Neapolitan and 
 Nesselrode. 
 
 88. 
 
 Bonanza Punch. 
 
 Our own Rocky Mountain punch as made for 
 hotel dinners for two hundred and fifty. 
 10 quarts of water. 
 9 pounds of sugar. 
 2 dozen lemons. 
 6 oranges. 
 2 cans of pineapple. 
 1 pint of gin. 
 
 1 quart bottle of champagne. 
 
 Grate the rinds of 6 of the lemons and 4 oran- 
 ges into a bowl, and squeeze in the juice of all. Put 
 on about 2 quarts of water, with a lot of sugar in, 
 and the pineapple juice, making a hot syrup of it, 
 and then pour it to the grated rinds and juice in the 
 bowl to draw the flavor. Strain into the freezer, 
 chop the pineapple and put in, add all the rest of 
 the sugar and water, gin and champagne, color it 
 pink and freeze. 
 
 89. The Same, Reduced for Fifty. 
 
 2i quarts of water. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar, 
 
 6 lemons. . 
 
 2 oranges. 
 
 1 small can of pineapple, 
 i cupful of gin. 
 
 1 cupful of champagne or sweet wine. 
 Grate the rinds of 2 lemons and 1 orange, and 
 proceed as above directed. 
 
 90. 
 
 Kirsch Punch. Bomaine. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 
 3 pounds of sugar. 
 
 4 lemons — juice only. 
 
 1 pint of kirschwasser. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Mix the punch materials together cold ; strain into 
 the freezer. When nearly frozen whip the 8 whites 
 firm, mix in and freeze again. 
 
 91. 
 
 Regent's Punch. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 1 pint of gin. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 pint of maraschino — or half as much kirsch. 
 
 4 bottles of soda water. 
 
 Grate the rind of a lemon into a bowl, moisten 
 with some gin and rub with the back of a spoon to 
 extract the flavor. Add the lemon juice and rest of 
 the ingredients except the soda; strain into the 
 freezer and freeze as firm as the spirit in it will al- 
 low, add the bottled soda and finish the freezing. 
 
28 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY. COOK. 
 
 92. 
 
 Victoria Punch. 
 
 6 or 8 oranges — according to size. 
 12 lemons. 
 
 3 pounds of sugar. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 
 1 pint of angelica or other sweet win;. 
 
 i pint of rum. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Grate the rinds of half the lemons into a bowl, 
 add the rum, and rub with the back of a spoon to 
 extract the flavor. Squeeze in the juice of all 
 the fruit, add the other ingredients and freeze. 
 Then whip the whites, stir in, beat up and freeze 
 again. 
 
 93 
 
 Cardinal Punch. 
 
 A survival of the old-time spiced wine called 
 "bishop;" the same was called cardinal when made 
 with the best of red wine. The specialty about it is 
 in roasting the oranges either before or over the fire, 
 and letting them steep in good red wine, which, when 
 thus flavored, is used either hot or cold. If to be 
 frozen take 
 
 1 quart of wine jelly (calPs foot or gelatine.) 
 
 1 quart of claret or any good red wine. 
 
 1 quart of port. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 4 oranges. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of whole cloves. 
 
 Bake the oranges brown on a plate in the oven. 
 Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and water with 
 the cloves in it, drop the baked oranges into it, add 
 the wine and let remain until cold. Cut the oranges 
 and press them for the juice, and strain the punch 
 into the freezer. Add the jelly (or white of eggs for 
 a substitute) and freeze. If in season for red rasp- 
 berry juice add some for brighter color. 
 
 93a. 
 
 Angelica Punch. 
 
 2 cups California Angelica wine. 
 
 2 cups hot water — a pint. 
 
 1 cup sugar — J pound. 
 
 1 cup stemmed raisins — J pound. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 2 whites of eggs and two tablespoonfuls of 
 powdered sugar to beat in. 
 
 Chop the raisins, grate half the rind of the lemon, 
 squeeze in all of the juice, pour the hot water to 
 them, add the sugar, and stir until it is all dissolved. 
 Strain the flavored syrup thus obtained into a 
 freezer, and rub the most of the raisin pulp through 
 as well. Add the wine and freeze. When nearly 
 frozen whip the two whites and the powdered sugar 
 together till thick, add them to the punch and finish 
 freezing. It is like cream. Serve in stem glasses. 
 
 93b. 
 
 Bisque Ice Creams* 
 
 Ice creams with a proportion of the pulp of 
 pounded fruit or nuts added are termed bisques, 
 
 93c. Bisque of Pineapple Ice Cream. 
 
 1 can pineapple or | pound. 
 
 2 cups sugar. 
 4 cups cream. 
 
 Chop the pineapple small and put it in a bright 
 pan or kettle with the sugar and a few spoonfnls of 
 juice or water to dissolve the sugar to S)Tup. Sim- 
 mer at the side of the range a short time. 
 
 Whip the cream till it is half froth, then freeze it 
 first by itself, because the pineapple added before 
 freezing has a tendency to curdle it. Pound the 
 pineapple and syrup through a colander, mix it with 
 the partly frozen cream, and freeze again. 
 
 It can and ought to be managed to have the pine- 
 apple in syrup prepared beforehand to be cold. In 
 making these bisques it is not best to pound the 
 fruit perfectly fine, but the small pieces about like 
 grains of wheat should be perceptible and show that 
 the creams are mixed with fruits and not merely 
 flavored. 
 
 93d. Bisque of Preserved Ginger. 
 
 i pound of either preserved or candied ginger. 
 
 i cup sugar. 
 
 Juice of one lemon. 
 
 4 cups of cream. 
 
 Cut tfie candied ginger into very small pieces. 
 Make a hot syrup of the sugar with a few spoonfuls 
 of water and squeeze the lemon into it, then put in 
 the ginger and let it soften and impart the flavor to 
 the syrup. Put the cream and ginger and syrup all 
 together, freeze and beat up. 
 
 93c. 
 
 Apricot Ice. 
 
 3 cupfuls of apricots cut in pieces. 
 
 1 cupful of sugar — Bounces. 
 
 2 cupfuls of water. 
 
 The kernels of half the apricots. 
 
 2 whites of eggs. 
 
 The ripest and sweetest apricots, if the fresh fruit 
 be used, should be kept out, one cupful to be mixed 
 in the ice when finished. 
 
 Stew the other two cupfuls and the peeled kernels 
 in the water and sugar for a few minutes, rub 
 the fruit then with the back of a spoon, through a 
 strainer into the freezer along with the syrup. 
 Freeze like ice cream and when it is nearly finished 
 whip the two whites to a firm froth, mix them in and 
 turn the freezer rapidly a short time longer. Stir in 
 the cut apricots just before serving. Canned apri- 
 cots can be used as well, and if in sjrrup that can be 
 mixed in also. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 29 
 
 Cumberland Ices 
 
 Red cherry ice with nut cream. Two freezers re- 
 quired. 
 
 94. Red Cherry Ice. 
 
 4 pints of sweet red or black cherries. 
 
 2 pints ff water. 
 
 IJ pounds of sugar. 
 
 M»!sh the fruit raw and thoroughly so as to break 
 the stones, and strain the juice through a fin« strain- 
 er into the freezer. Boil the cherry pulp with some 
 of the sugar and water to extract the flavor from 
 the kernels, and ma?h that also through the strain, 
 er, add the other pint of water and the sugar and 
 freeze. Use no egg whites and only beat the ice 
 enough to make it even and smooth, 
 
 95. Hickory Nut Ice Cream. 
 
 1 pound of either pecan or hickory nut kernels. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 quart of rich milk or cream. 
 
 1 tablespconful of burnt sugar coloring. 
 
 Pick over the kernels carefully that there be no 
 fragments of shells to make the cream gritty, then 
 pound them in a mortar with part of the sugar and 
 & few spoonfuls of milk or other fluid. Only a few 
 can be pounded efiectually at a time. Mix the milk 
 with the pulp thus obtained, the rest of the sugar 
 and caramel coloring enough to make it like coffee 
 and cream, and run it through a strainer into the 
 freezer. 
 
 Freeze it as usual and beat smooth with the pad- 
 dle, then pack down with more ice to freeze firm. 
 
 Line the moulds with the cherry ice and fill the 
 middle with the cream, or, dish the ice as a bord- 
 er in shallow glasses with the cream piled in the 
 center. 
 
 Oape May Ices. 
 Burnt almond ice-cream and orange ice. 
 96. Almond Bisque. 
 
 Take 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 12 ounces of sweet almonds. 
 
 2 ounces of bitter almonds. 
 
 Blanch the almonds, split them and put them in 
 a slack oven to dry and acquire a light yellow col- 
 or. Put the sugar in a kettle on the fire without 
 any water and stir it till it is all melted and of the 
 color of go'den syrup or light molasses. Then put 
 in the hot almonds, stir gently to mix, and pour the 
 candy on to a large platter. 
 
 When cold pound the candy quite fine, put it in- 
 to 3 pints of rich milk, set it on the fire and when it 
 boils add the beaten yolks of 10 eggs. Strain the 
 
 burnt almond custard thus made into a freezer and 
 freeze as usual and beat light, 
 
 97. Orange Ice. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 5 or 6 oranges according to size. 
 
 1 lemon, juice only, if the oranges are sweet. 
 
 4 whites of e gs. 
 
 Make a thick syrup of the sugar and very little 
 wa<er. Peel half the oranges, divide l hem each in 
 12 or more by pulling apart by the natural divis- 
 ions and drop i he pieces of orange in the boiling 
 syrup. Grate the yellow zest of the other 3 oran- 
 ges into a bowl and squeeze in the juice, then pour 
 the syrup from < he scalded orange slices a^so into 
 the bowl through a strainer and keep the pieces on 
 ice to be mixed in at the last. Add the water and 
 lemon jnice to the orange syrup io the bowl, strain 
 and freeze. Beat in the whipped whites as usual 
 and when finished stir in the sugared fruit. 
 
 This ice is cream-white, tinged with the orange 
 zet and juice. 
 
 Use the burnt almond cream for the oatside and 
 fill with the orange ice. 
 
 98. Chocolate Ice Oream 
 
 Use only 3 or 4 ounces of the common unsweete 
 ened chocolate to a gallon of cream or boiled cus- 
 tard. Chocolate cream is generally too strongly fla- 
 vored for the majority. The foreign vanilla chocolate 
 s about ha' f sugar and more of course can be used. 
 Boil the chocolate in some milk with sugar added, 
 strain it into the cream and flavor with vanilla be- 
 sides. Beat the ice cream to make it bright and 
 rich colored. Melted chocolate cannot be mixed at 
 once in cold cream, as it sets and makes trouble, it 
 must be considerably diluted first. 
 
 99. 
 
 Coffee Ice Oream. 
 
 Make with pure sweet cream only, and 1 pint of 
 very strong clear coffee to 3 quarts. Sugar as usu- 
 al — 8 ounces to a quart. The best coffee for this 
 purpose is made by steeping coarsely ground coffee 
 in cold water over night and not boiling it at all. 
 Hot coffee from the urn will answer if taken when 
 fresh made and not inky. 
 
 and Maraschino Ice Creams. 
 
 Curacoa 
 lOO. 
 
 For combinations with strawberry and pineapple 
 ices. Use a cupful of curacoa to 3 qua^^ts of cream 
 
30 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 or custard. Coif r the cream cafe-au-lait witli 2 oun- 
 ces of sugar burnt to the color of golden syrup and 
 then dissolved in milk. Beat the ice cream to make 
 it gold color. Use the same proportion of mara- 
 schino in pure cream and beat the ice cream to 
 whiteness, 
 
 lOl. 
 
 Strawberry Ice. 
 
 2 quarts of strawberries — red ripe and sweet. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 
 Cover the strawberries with the sugar and let 
 them remain some time to fyrm a thick red syrup 
 Pick out a few of the berries to be mixed in the ice 
 St last. Rub the rest through a strainer into the 
 freezer with the syrup and add the water. Freeze 
 without much beating if a crimson ice is wanted, and 
 add coloring if necessary. Throw the reserved ber- 
 ries on top of the strawberry ice in the freezer and 
 mix them in when the ice is to be served. 
 
 lO^. 
 
 Currant Ice. 
 
 Make currant water ice the same as the strawber- 
 ry ice preceding, except that no whole fruit need 
 be saved out. Cooked or canned currants are not 
 suitable, being too gelatinous and of poor color, and 
 only the best and ripest of the fresh fruit should b 
 employed for this purpose. The most luscious cur- 
 rants do not grow in America. 
 
 103. 
 
 The hotel pastry cook has very little need of arti- 
 ficial coloring. The rich colors of the various fruits 
 n their season may be preserved with but slight 
 ^rouble by taking the surplus ju*ces and boiling 
 them with plenty of sugar, often in the same kettle 
 the fruit was cooked in for pie^, and straining the 
 syrup into botiUs. Such syrups will keep a long 
 time and while the writer is well aware that any 
 elaborate process of the sort would never be put in 
 practice in hotel work, he can recommend the 
 seizing upon such things as come to hand this way 
 as positive labor-saving expedients. A bottle of 
 strawberry or raspberry syrup put away at an odd 
 time comes splendidly in place to mix with a freezer 
 of cream in the winter or spring. 
 
 104. Strawberry Ice Oream. 
 
 2 quarts of strawberries — red ripe and sweet. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 2 quarts of cream. 
 
 Cover the fruit with the sugar and mash them 
 together and rub the fruit and syrup through a 
 seive into a bowl, adding a cupful of water to the 
 pulp at last. 
 
 Half freeze the cream by itself and then add the 
 strawberry syrup and finish the freezing as usual. 
 
 105. 
 
 Pineapple loe. 
 
 2 cans of pineapple. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 
 6 or 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Strain the juice from the cans into the freezer. 
 Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and 1 quart of 
 water and throw in the pieces of pineapple previously 
 crt in large d'ce. Let boil a few minutes and then 
 strain the flavored syrup algo iuto the freezer. Add 
 the other quart of water and freeze. Strew some eu- 
 gar over the pieces of pineapple and set them on ice. 
 When the syrup is nearly fiozen add some red fruit 
 juice or coloring to make it rose pnk, and the 
 whipped whites, beat and freeze again. Throw the 
 pieces of pineapple on top, cover down and let re- 
 main till time to serve, then mix them in. 
 
 The canned pineapple is generally riper and 
 sweeter than the fresh fruit that is sent to Northern 
 markets. When the latter is used it should be cut 
 up, have hot syrup poured over and allowed to steep 
 till cold. Two cans contain about 1^ pounds of 
 pineapple. The juice of 1 or 2 lem ns is sometimes 
 added to a pineapple ice when the fruit is very 
 sweet. 
 
 Pineapple Water Ice or Sherbet. 
 lOO. 
 
 The same proportions as the preceding receipt 
 
 Chop the pineapple small, scald it in the boiling 
 syrup, then pound it through a strainer with the 
 syrup and remaining quirt of water into a freezer. 
 Freeze, add 4 whites of eggs and beat it perfectly 
 white. 
 
 lOT. Pineapple Ice Oream. 
 
 Make the same as directed in the preceding t&> 
 ceipt with 2 quarts of rich cream instead of water, 
 and use no eggs. Pineapple syrup or pulp poured 
 in'o cream will immediately curdle it. The cream 
 must be nearly frozen first and then the pineapple 
 added to it and the freezing finished. 
 
 Frozen Cocoanut Custard or Oocoanut 
 108. Ice Cream. 
 
 3 quarts of milk. 
 
 18 ounces of sugar. 
 
 15 yolks of eggH. 
 
 1 pound of desiccated cocoanut — the sugared kind 
 free from oil and rancidity is best. 
 
 Make the custard as usual and stir in the cocoa, 
 nut while it is still warm after straining. Freeze and 
 beat as usual. A little lemon or orange flavoring 
 can be added. 
 
 The ordinary ice cream or starch custard can be 
 u3ed the same way as well. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 31 
 
 lOO. Concord Grape Ice. 
 
 A reddish purple, useful for combinations and for 
 Neapolitan or tri colored ices. 
 
 4 ounces of ripe Concord grapes — a cupful. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 quait of wafer. 
 
 Juice of one lemon. 
 
 Mi>-h »he graprs and sugar together raw, add the 
 lemon Juice and water, strain into a freez r with 
 all the pulp obtainable, and freeze at once. The ice 
 becomes lighter colored the more it is beiten. The 
 lemon juice he'ps to brighten it. The grapes should 
 not be scalded or cooked. 
 
 no. 
 
 Wild Plum Ice. 
 
 As good in its turn as pineapple or lemon. The 
 plums must not be cooked, however. 
 
 1 pound of wi'd plums — ripe and sweet, red or 
 yellow. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 4 whites of eggs. 
 
 Mash the plums and sugar together in a bright 
 pan, add the water and rub the pulp and pyrup 
 through a strainer into a freezer. Freeze, add the 
 the whipped whites and beat up as usual. It makes 
 a cream-white ice, that may be colored with a liitle 
 boiled red plum syrup or otherwise. 
 
 Wild plum ice cream of sweet pl»«s may also be 
 m^de by the directions given for pineapple ice 
 cream. The flavor is very good. 
 
 111. 
 
 The cook wanted to make a tapioca custard ice 
 but the appearance of it on the bill of fare both' red 
 him He knew it was good, for sometime? the 
 tapioca cup-custard had become half frozen where 
 it was set in ice to get cold, and it was extremely rich. 
 He knew there waq such a thing as iced pudding, 
 but then it might be taken to mean only pudding 
 iced over like cake, and besides iced pudding should 
 be of two parts, cream and fruit. This was at a 
 Sulphur Springs down in a warm State where they 
 had ices of some port for dinner every day during 
 three-fourths of the year, and two kinds on Sun- 
 days, and the repeti'ions cf ice cream and lemon 
 shetbet became extremely tiresome. So he con- 
 cluded to put it on the bill of fare frozen tapioca 
 pudding. But the people who ate the dinners were 
 not tired of ices, and the eating of them had become 
 a sort of habit, and to have left out the ices would 
 have seemed as strange as to have left out coffee or 
 bread. And when the young colonel, who was al 
 ways ready to penetrate a witicism, remarked sig. 
 n^ficantly that if there was one thing he did love it 
 was ice cream, and if there was one thing he did 
 despise it was cold pudding, everybody looked at 
 
 the bill of fare, and the young ladies said, oh, dear! 
 But the brig dier gener»l s^id he had half a mind 
 to try it and see what frozei pudding wa', and the 
 old lady said he needn't be a bit afraid for every- 
 hing they made there was good. But while they 
 were talking the judge, who was wanted at the 
 courthruse a|ain,^had had Ms brcught in, and he 
 spoke up and naid they couldn't fool him, it was ice 
 cream. Then the young ladies said again how very, 
 very ridiculous, and they might brirg them a little, 
 please. And it ended badly, for through this un- 
 wonted advertising of the article it gave out and 
 there was not over half enough to go round. But, 
 begging the judges pardon, it was not ice cream, 
 now what was it ? 
 
 ll!S. Frozen Tapioca Oustard. 
 
 3 quarts of milk. 
 20 ounces of suj?ar. 
 
 6 or 7 ounces of tapioca 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 12 yolks or 8 whole eggs. 
 
 Flav-ring. 
 
 1 cupful of thick cream to whip in at last. 
 
 The pearl tapioca is the most suitable. If the 
 large grained sort is used crush it on th.e table with 
 the rolling-pin and then sift away the dust. 
 
 Steep the tapioca 2 hours in a quart of milk cold, 
 but set it in a warm place. Boil the rest of the milk 
 with the sugar in it, then add the steeped tapioca, 
 cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the butter, then the 
 beaten yolks and tal^e the custard immediately off 
 the fire, cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon, and 
 freeze like ice cream, and when ne%rly finished add 
 the cup of cream whipped to a froth, and beat well. 
 
 113. Frozen Bice Oustard. 
 
 Same as the preceding. Wash 6 ounces of rice in 
 several wafers and cook it in the milk. May be 
 flavored with stick cinnamon. If m»de with rice 
 previously cooked pass it tbrough a colander. 
 
 114, Frozen Scgo Oustard. 
 
 Same as the tapioca custard. Steep the sago \% 
 cold milk first it will then cook in a few minutes. 
 
 115. 
 
 Apple Ice. 
 
 To be served in co^nbination with a frozen custard 
 such as the preceding three. 
 20 ounces of cored and sliced apples. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 1 quart of water. 
 1 lemon. 
 
 Use for this pu''p''se only ripe and sweet apples. 
 Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and a cupful of 
 water and throw in the apple quarters or slices and 
 
82 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 the lemon— ccver with a lid and simmer slowly till 
 dene without stirring or breaking Strain out the 
 af plf 8 find set them on ice. Add the balance of the 
 water to the syrup and freeze it without much beat- 
 ing, then throw in the apples and finish the freezing. 
 Thi^ makes a whitish ice. The apples should not be 
 trozen very hard. 
 
 Frozen Compotes of Pears and Oranges. 
 
 For the same purposes as the apples preceding, 
 can be prepared in the same way. The object ( f 
 stewing the fruit in thick eyrup is to prevent it from 
 breaking out of shape. The syrup can then be dilu- 
 ted as desired. 
 
 The quantities in all these receipts are calculated 
 for the average or probable orders of 60 j ersons 
 having a varied bill of fare to cboose fiom. When 
 two ices are to be served in combination the quan. 
 tities of each of course are reduced in proportion 
 A liberal rule is to provide a quart before freezing 
 for every 10 persons, and the freezing process should 
 increase its volume considerably. 
 
 UT. 
 
 Lemon Ice. 
 
 8 lemons. 
 
 3 pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 quarts of water. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Grate the rinds of the lemons into a bowl ard 
 squeeze in the juice. Make a boiling syrup of the 
 sugar and half the water and pour it hot to the 
 lemon zest and juice and let remain so till cold. 
 Then add the rest of the water, strain the lemonade 
 into a fieezer, freeze as usual, and at last add the 
 whites whipped to a firm froth, beat and freeze ogain 
 Tbe scalding draws the flavor of the lemon; it should 
 never, however, be boiled and fewer lemons shou'd 
 be used when they are large. The ice is perfectly 
 white. 
 
 118. 
 
 Saratoga Ice Cups. 
 
 For the following very easy method of serving 
 ices ornamentally there should be provided a suffi 
 cient number of tin drinking cups made like tall 
 tumbler glasses, to serve as molds. They need have 
 no rimmed edge. Their slight flexibility makes 
 them better tha • gl sses «o get the shell of ice out 
 of. The ccmmonest thin tumblers will answer how 
 ever. 
 
 Take 4 dozen tumblers and set them in a freezing 
 mixture of ice p ucded extremely fine and well 
 mixed with salt and a little brine from the freezing 
 tub. The freezing mixture may be in a common 
 washtub, or wooden box, and no deeper than the 
 tumblers. Fill the glasses with thin strawberry, 
 pineipple or lemon syrup, or with any of the prep- 
 arations for fruit ices. Cover over the top of the 
 
 tub with a table cloth and leave them to freeze. In 
 from 15 to 30 minutes ihe glasses or moulds will 
 have a coaling of ice inside perhfipa an eight h-of-an- 
 inch thick. 3 he unfrozen syiup shoild then be 
 poured out and the glasses returned to thf^ freezing 
 mixture for the inside c ating of ice to freeze per- 
 fectly drj and crystalized. The freezing mav be 
 hastened by gently stirring the freezing mixture 
 among the tumblers with a stick and by turning the 
 tumblers with the fingers. 
 
 When it is time to serve wipe the outside of the 
 glass or mold with a cloth dipped in tepid water 
 and turn out the shell of ice. Fill it with a curacao 
 or caramel or nut ice cream or any ether of diflFer- 
 ent color from the cup itself, or with a puie froth d 
 cream swee'ened and flavored and frozen in the same 
 ice cup set in a sorbetiere 
 
 Different colored cups m«y be made with the green 
 syrup of pounded muscatel grapes, with Concord 
 grapes, cherries, etc. Observe that the less sugar 
 these syrups contain the easier the cup shapes will be 
 to freeze and the slower to dissolve. They last longer 
 on the table than the ioe creams they are filled with. 
 
 Ice cream in shape of eggs : A small number 
 for a party table can be made without moulds by 
 using egg shells of the largest sort. Procure some 
 broad rubber bands from the stationers, such as are 
 used for binding bundles of letter, etc , and half an 
 inch in breadth Emp^y the eggshel's by making a 
 hole at each end. Fill them with ice cream, aofi and 
 just freshly frozen. Draw the rubber bands over 
 them so as to close the holes, brush over with melted 
 butter besides to close a'l crevices against the salt, 
 them drop them in the freezing tub and cover with 
 the finely pounded ice and salt. 
 
 IIO. 
 
 Surprise ices : A more elaborate form of the fore- 
 going egg shapes. Fill the shells with a white ice 
 cream only partly frozen and fluid, close with the 
 rubber bands and butter and immerse them in the 
 freezing mixture about 15 minutes for a shell of 
 cream to form inside. Then wash off the outside, 
 remove the bands, pour or scoop out the cream that 
 remains unfrozen in the middle, and place the shells 
 in a freezer well packed in ice and salt to freeze dry 
 and crystalized, as already directed for ice cups. 
 After that fill with chocolate ice. cream or yellow 
 frozen custard. The variations are endless. 
 
 130. Biscuit Ices or Ice Cakes. - 
 
 i BISCUITS GLACES. 
 
 Ices, extra sweet and lich, in little paper cases 
 made to imitate cakes, sometimes with a brown crust 
 on top as if baked. Very handsome little rice paper 
 cases can now be procured for this and similar pur. 
 poses. Fill them with any kind of ice or with a 
 number of different varieties. There is no rule as 
 to kinds but nut creams, caramel, chocolate and 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 strawberry ice creams, and the sponge ices to be 
 mentioned further on, are the most suitable Smooth 
 over, roll some macaroons to powder and sift that 
 over to give the brown appearance, then place the 
 ice biscuits in a freezing box to remain till time to 
 serve. 
 
 Small quantities of ice creams, etc., for biscuits 
 glaces and for lining a mold, can be frozen wi'hout 
 the trouble of the regular packing of a freezer for 
 each Vind in any sort of deep tin vessel set in a tub 
 of ice and salt, by rapid stirring with a spoon or 
 paddle while the vessel is tept in motion with the 
 other hand. A quart in each can generally be fro- 
 zen in 10 or 15 minutes. 
 
 Ices for biscuits glaces that are made with 1 pound 
 or IJ pounds of sugar to a quart have a glossy ap- 
 pearance when well worked and draw from the 
 spoon like pulled candy. 
 
 131. 
 
 A freezing I ox: It is a simple and ea«y matter to 
 freeze ice crei>m in a mold that can have the Id pu 
 on, be sealed and dropped into (he freeziag tub fropa 
 which the ice cream freezer has just been removed. 
 A freezing box involving the use of a larger amount 
 of freezit g material is, however, indisprnsablfi for 
 some articles. An empty ice cream freezer with the 
 lid on, picked around and on top wish ice and salt, 
 is an example of what is wanted. A glass of cream 
 placed inside might be frozen solid in an hour cr 
 two. But something more spacious can generally be 
 improvised, f uch as a bro^d and shallow boi'er set 
 in a tub. The article must have a lid that will ad- 
 mit of ice and salt being packed all over it without 
 danger to the contents. 
 
 "Now I have lived long enough to know that each 
 generation says the same thing, and is laughed at 
 f( r its pains by the generation fullowing." — Savarin 
 Preface. 
 
 We have adhered closely to one of the highest 
 piiociples of the best cook which the present ege, or 
 perhaps that of Heliogabalus hath produced. This 
 grcit man, as is well known to all lovers of polite 
 eating, begios at first by setting plain things before 
 his hungry guests, using afterwards by degrees, as 
 their s omacUs may be supposed to decrease, to the 
 very qsintessence of sauce and spices. By these 
 mears we duubt not but our reader may be rendered 
 desirous to read on forever, as the great person just 
 above mentioned i<j supposed to have made persons 
 to eat." — Fielding — Preface to Tom Jones — 1751. 
 
 "There is no doubt the delicacy of cur manners 
 could not suffer the Roman practice cf using vomi- 
 tories, but we have done better, and reach the same 
 
 end by a method allowed by good taste. Wo have 
 invented dishes fo attractive that they unceasingly 
 renew the appetite ; yet they are at the same time 
 so light that they flatter the palate without loading 
 the stomach. We have arrived at such a point, that 
 if the calls of business did not force us to riee from 
 the table, or the want of sleep interpose, the dura- 
 tion of our repasts would be almost unlimited; and 
 there would be no fixed data for finding what time 
 might elapse between the first glass of Madeira and 
 the last tumbler of punch." — Oastronomy — 1825. 
 
 "Although this kind of ice is seldom served I have 
 thought it best to describe it ; it is just possible 
 that, in (his transition period, we mny see an a'- 
 tempt made to improve the indiflfeverit quali y of 
 the refreshments now served at evening parties ; and 
 then such delicate preparations as these Iced Froths 
 will be in request. They are cool to eat without 
 freezing the palatr; they are perfectly whoiesome and 
 suited to the weakest digestion." — Jules Qouffe 
 —1865. 
 
 *'Even if we do the same things as the ancients 
 did, we do them in a different manner." — SavarMa 
 Preface, 
 
 122. 
 
 Iced Froths. 
 
 MOUSSES GLACEES. 
 
 These ices often appear in the menus of banquet^ 
 served at Delmonico's They are whipped creami 
 variously flavored; the froth is piled in glasse;} 
 which are then set in a freezing box where it is al- 
 lowed to freeze without any minipulation. Double 
 cream must be used; that is cream skimmed fronj 
 the top of cresm. It should be cold to froth easily. 
 Sweeten and flavor it like any ice cream preparation, 
 and churn it in a pail with a whip churn, such %% 
 may be procured at any tinners, or with a Dovei 
 egg bearer in a shallow bowl; take off the froth, 
 place it on a fine seive to drain, and when all ia 
 whipped firm pile it in the glasses it is to be frozen 
 and served in. 
 
 Maraschino, chocolate, coffee, strawberry, lemon 
 and vanil'a creams are suitable but need to be more 
 highly flavored than the ordinary ices. 
 
 It will be found a great aid if all the operations 
 can be performed in a cold place. 
 
 For the pastry cook who makes sponge cake fre* 
 quently, it will remove the abtrusenesa from two or 
 three examples following to observe that they are 
 nearly the same as lady-finger batter before the flouf 
 is added. 
 
34 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Vienna Glaoe Biscuit, or Ice Cake. 
 
 153. 
 
 1 pouud of sugar. 
 
 1 email cup of water— nearly J pint. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 pint of double cream. 
 
 2 tablespoonfula of vanilla extract. 
 
 Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and water. Beat 
 the yor^s light in a deep bowl, pour the boiling syr- 
 up to them and continue beating, with the bowl set 
 in ice water, till the mixture is cold and very light. 
 Whip the cream to froth and lightly mix it with the 
 other, and add the flavoring. Sift powdered maca- 
 roon over the rice paper cases, nearly fiil them with 
 the preparation, powder over the tops and set the 
 biscuits in the freezing case for 2 or 3 hours. 
 
 The practice so common in Italian and French 
 cookery of using syrups of varying density instead 
 of sugar in making numerous other articles, as well 
 as their especial varieties of cakes, is a remnant 
 of ancient times, for the Italians and the French 
 were fine cooks long before the art of making dry 
 crystalized sugar was kaown. Th-^y used syrups 
 and honey,and the handicraft transmitted from father 
 to son has not been wholly revolutionized by the 
 newer product. 
 
 Spongada, Fromasre Glace, or Sponge 
 
 154. Ice. 
 
 Sort of frozen '* Tom and Jerry "—needs no milk 
 or cream. 
 24 yolks of eggs. 
 
 6 whites of eggs. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar, 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 1 pint of kirschenwasser, or half as much maras- 
 chino, curacoa, or a little peach brandy. 
 
 Make a boiling syrup of the sugar and wa'er and 
 pour it to the yolks previously beaten light. Beat the 
 mixture till cool, pour it into a freezer and con'ioue 
 beating with the wire egg whisk, turning the freezer 
 with the other hand, till it is pretty well frozen, 
 then add the liqueur a little at a time, and then 
 the whites of eggs whipped firm. It looks like a 
 very spongy cake. Can be be put in paper cases 
 large or small, or filled in a frozen charlotte. 
 
 An'>ther variety of the foregoing may be made by 
 freezing 2 quarts of syrup with chocolate dissolved 
 in if, and when nearly finished add 12 whites of eggs 
 whipped light, and beating all together. 
 
 The receipt for glace a la cremi Napolitaine origi- 
 nally promulgated by M. M. Bernard and Urbain- 
 Dubois from the royal palace at Vienna, perhaps 
 some thirty years ago, had no reference to the brick 
 shape of tri-colored ices of the present fashion. It 
 
 was — 3 decil de creme doublo, trois quarts de litre 
 de sirop a 25 dsg., 15 jaunes d'oeufs, 1 orange zeste 
 — approximately a pint of double cream, a pound of 
 sugar and a half a pint of wa^er, 15 yolks, and (r 
 ange flavor,concocted together by the Italian method, 
 i. e. the boiling syrup poured <o the yolks, and the 
 mixture be- ten up like sponge cake batter, the 
 whipped cream incorporated with it, and the liijbt 
 product frozen quickly. 
 
 135. 
 
 Neapolitan molds : These are in the form of a cigar 
 box or briok ; can be made much longer if desired. 
 If ordered from a tinner have ihem made wih two 
 bids and no bottom instead of box-like wiih one lid ; 
 let the rim of the lids have thick wire soldered on 
 to rest upon another wire soMered on the box — 
 much the same as ice cream freezer lids are made. 
 
 Neapolitan is the English word, Napolitaine is the 
 French. These are among the words that break us 
 all up with our bills of fare. 
 
 ISO. Neapolitan Ices or Ice Cream. 
 
 Prepare three ice creams, or creams and fruit ices 
 or spoi ge ices, of different colors and flavors, and 
 fill the mold (already made freezing cold) with them 
 in equal layers. This is best done by filling ono 
 of the lids higher than its rim and leveling it off, 
 then pushing the mold down into it and then adding 
 the other two layers as evenly as possible. Put on 
 the top lid, draw half a dozen rubber bands around 
 each mold to keep the lids in place, fill the inter- 
 stices with butter and then place the molds in the 
 freezing tub and cover them with pounded iceand salt. 
 Let them remoin 2 or 3 hours to harden. Some re- 
 gard should be had to the compatibility of flavors 
 chosen as, for instance, lemon and chccolate do not 
 taste well together, but chocolate and cinnamon and 
 vanil a do, and an almond flavored caramel cream is 
 suitable with red grape and white cherry ices. 
 
 Ices are said to have been introduced into France 
 from Italy by Catherine de Medici. 
 
 Italian Fruit 
 1ST. 
 
 Ice Cream or Iced Plum 
 Pudding. 
 
 TUTTI FRUTTFf 
 
 Make a quart of rich yolk-of-egg custard, color it 
 cafe-au-lait wiih two ounces of sugar burnt to mola«- 
 ses color and dissolved in milk, flavor with a quarter 
 pint of curacoa, strain, freeze and boat up thoroughly. 
 
 Fill a quart measure with a mixture of different 
 kinds of sugared fruits, candied dates, preserved 
 wa'er melon rind, candied citron, seedless raisins 
 previously steeped in a liqueur, figs cut in pieces, 
 some blanched almonds or ^nything^ of the sort that 
 is good. Mix these fruUs with the frozen custard 
 and pack down with ice and salt to remain while 
 you prepare the molds. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 Make also 2 quarts of orange ice in another freezer, 
 add the white of eggs in the usual manner and beat it 
 up whife ai'd smooth, then spread it evenly over the 
 insides of 2 or 3 melon molds to coat them. Imbed 
 ihe molds in the freezing mixture and when the coat- 
 ing of orange ice is frozen firm fill up with the tutti 
 frutM. Spread the orange ice also on top, put on 
 the lids, secure with a number of rubber bands; 
 close all spaces securely with butter and place the 
 molds in the freezing mixture to remain 2 or 3 hours. 
 
 When to be served wash the outsides with a cloth 
 dipped in tepiJ water, carefully turn out the tutti 
 frutti ou to a folded napkin on a dish, lay a decora- 
 tion of gelatine paste upon the white surface and 
 serve. 
 
 Or it can be served individually in slines the 
 same as Neapolitan ices. 
 
 Nearly all ice cream molds, except the half melon 
 shape, require a lid at each end because the pressure 
 of air renders it difl&cult to withdraw the icei from 
 a tall shape tightly soldered at the top. 
 
 Gelatine Paste for Ornamenting loes 
 138. 
 
 Make clear jelly in the usual manner, then reduce 
 it by slow boiling to little more than half, color it as 
 desired, filter again, flavor, and cool it on large plat- 
 ters. S'amp out leaves, fern leaves, flower shapes, 
 etc , and have them ready to place on the molded 
 ices as soon as they are turned out. 
 
 There are few terms of more uncertain meaning 
 than the word sherbet. At first perhaps a simple 
 beverage of sweet fruit juice mixed with water and 
 cooled with a handful of mountain snow, it has 
 come to stand for anything from flavored sugar and 
 water and lemonade to frozen champagne punch. 
 
 1^9. 
 
 London Sherbet. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 
 1^ pints of wine — port or any sweet kind. 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 4 t ranges. 
 2 lemons. 
 
 8 ounces of sultana seedless raisins. 
 8 whiles of eggs. 
 Nutm<»g. Red fruit juice or other coloring. 
 Make a sjrup of the sugar and water and pour it 
 
 hot upon the oranges and lemons all cut up in a 
 bowl, and the raisins and half a nutmeg with them. 
 When cool strain the syrup into a freezer, add the 
 wine and coloring to make it pink, and freeze and 
 beat up with the whites of eggs as usual. Add the 
 fruit slicea at last and mix them in without break- 
 i'>g. Only good thin-skinned fruit can be used this 
 way. Exclude the seeds lest the sherbet be bitter. 
 
 130. 
 
 Turkish Sherbet. 
 
 1 quart of port or any sweet wine. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 2 lemons — juice only. 
 
 6 oranges— juice only. 
 
 8 ounces of blanched almonds. 
 
 8 ounces of musca'el grapes. 
 
 4 ounces of figs cut small. 
 
 4 ounces of seedless raisins. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Cloves and cinnamon, and little coloring. 
 
 Make a hot syrup of the sugar and water and 
 pour it over the raisins and figs and 6 cloves and a 
 small piece of cinnamon in a b )wl. When cool color 
 pink, add the orange and lemon juice and wine, 
 strain, and freeze it in the usual manner. Take out 
 the spices and add the scalded raisins and figs and 
 the grapes and almonds to the sherbet at last. 
 
 Collet, a French captain and refugee, made a small 
 fortune in New York about the year 1816 by making 
 ices and sherbets. 8&jb the Chronicler: "The women 
 in particular, never tired of this new pleasure, be- 
 ing especially astonished that they could be kept so 
 cold at a summer heat of ninety degrees." 
 
 If sherbets have any distinguishing feature in 
 their composition at all it is the admixture of jelly, 
 either calf's foot or gelatine, recommended by some 
 to give smoothness to the drink and substance to 
 the ice Mention has already been made of gela- 
 tine in ice cream. Either gelatine dissolved or fin- 
 ished table jelly can be added at option to the Eher- 
 bets preceding, but in that case leave out the whites 
 of eggs which are the substitute for calf's foot jvl-y. 
 
 According the lexicographers the word punch is 
 derived from East Indian pantsh, five, having refer- 
 ence to the five ingredients of punch — water, spirit, 
 sugar, lemons and tea. But that is the old-fashioned 
 punch to be drunk hot. 
 
 131. 
 
 Roman punch is essentially a strong and good 
 lemonade with rum in it and whipped whites of 
 egg?, and frozen. But almost every one adds to it 
 orange juice, wine or brandy or maraschino and 
 sometimes spices and flavors. These are not essen- 
 tial ingredients but only individual fancies, but it 
 results that there is nothing that cooks in hotels 
 have to make that there are such various ideas 
 about as the composition of Roman punch. Ag in, 
 the caterers who have had the privilege of setting 
 the fashions make other punches "a U Romaicp," 
 which are not Roman punch but are made in ' he 
 same manner with white of egg«, or Italian mer- 
 ingue, (which is boiled icing and acts the same as 
 the whites) and frozen. Rum punch becomes Ro* 
 
86 
 
 THE AlttEBICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 man punch by being put through the process just 
 mentioned. The places where Roman punch, or 
 something that passes for it is served wiih the des- 
 sert in place of ice cream are far more numerous 
 than where it is served as a course between the en 
 trees and the game. 
 
 139. 
 
 Boman Punoh. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 8 pints of water. 
 
 6 or 6 lemons — -juice of all, zest of 3. 
 
 3 or 4 orangf 8— juice of all, zest of 1. 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Half pint of Jamaica rum. 
 
 Half pint of angelica or other sweet wine. 
 
 Grate the rinds of 3 or 4 of the lemons and 1 or 
 2 oranges, according to their size and ripeness, into 
 a bowl and squeeze in the juice of all without the 
 seeds. Make a hot syrup of the sugar and a pint of 
 water, and when it has cooled a little pour it to the 
 zests and juice, and let remain till cold. Add the 
 wine and the other two pints of water, strain into 
 a freezer, freeze, add the whipped whites, and a 
 few minutes before serving put in the rum and beat 
 to mix. 
 
 2. To make a more expensive quality of punch 
 use good French white wine instead of water, ex- 
 oept water enough to dissolve the sugar. Rub the 
 orange and lemon zests on lumps of sugar and the 
 flavored syrup made with it need not be made hot. 
 A larger number of lemons will be needed, and the 
 rum is to be added at last as in the other case. 
 
 133. 
 
 Russian Punoh. 
 
 1 quart of black tea made as for drinking, (1 oz. 
 in a quart of water.) 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 1 pint of port wine. 
 
 Half pint of brandy. 
 
 1| pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 lemons. 
 
 Little caramel to color. 
 
 Cut the lemons in small slices in a bowl, make a 
 boiling syrup of the sugar and water and pour over 
 them and let stand till cold. Then add the tea and 
 liquors and strain the punch into a freezer and 
 freeze as hard as the spirit in it will allow. Keep 
 the lemon slices on ice and mix them in the frozen 
 punch at last. This should be light ale colored. 
 Use carmel if necessary. 
 
 134. Maraschino Punoh. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 
 2 lemons- juice only, 
 2 oranges — juice only. 
 1 pint of maraschino. 
 6 whites of eggs. 
 
 Mix the sugar and water and juice of fruits to 
 gcther, strain, freeze, add the whipped whites and 
 beat up. 
 
 135. 
 
 Strawberry Punoh. 
 
 Prepare strawberry syrup as directed for straw- 
 berry ice and add to it a pint of sweet wine and 
 freeze. Color bright rose. 
 
 130. 
 
 Imperial Punoh. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 1 ripe pineapple. 
 
 4 oranges — juice of all, zest of 2. 
 4 lemons — ^juice of all, zest of 2. 
 1 nutmeg. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 1 pint of equal parts of maraschino, noyeau, 
 kirscb, and curacao. 
 
 1 pint of champagne. 
 
 Grate or mash the pineapple, add the zests and 
 juice of the lemons and oranges and pour on them 
 the hot sjrup made of the sugar and water. Let 
 stand till cold Then strain and pres3 the syrup 
 from the pineapple, freeze and add the whipped 
 whites as usual, and a little while before serving add 
 the liqueurs and champagne. 
 
 13T. 
 
 Kisses. 
 
 Not dictionary kisses. Unfortunately perhaps for 
 the succintness of the following disquisition the die 
 tionaries describe another kind of kisses which in 
 some people's minds may possibly intrude and get 
 mixed up with these. But they ought not, for it is 
 not likely that the two varieties have any qualities 
 in common. These kisses that we are going to tell 
 you how to make are soft, tender, sweet, fragile, 
 round, plump, smooth, delicate, nice, light, and they 
 are hollow. That is to say, they should be so if per- 
 fectly well made, but some people go on trying all 
 their lives and never prodi ce a perfect kiss. On 
 second thoughts, for fear of the idea of the diction- 
 ary kiss perhaps we had better call these trifles by 
 their Freuch names. And you may find one of them 
 if you will look in Mr. Thackeray's book, Pendenms. 
 It must be about the middle of the first volume and 
 can easily be found because the French words are in 
 italics. Mr. P. comes to Clivering Hall and he 
 finds the Claveri' gs' young-one sittiag on the carpet 
 with his Uce smeared all over *'with the species of 
 lather contained in the confec'ion called meringues a 
 la creme." That is one sort. Those are our egg 
 kisses filled with whipped cream. So of course they 
 have to be made hollow, and few beside first rate 
 workmen can make them so. But there are numer- 
 ous varietias of the kiss-meringue, and they that can 
 make them are generally proud of their knowledge* 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 87 
 
 Now plenty of people will make cake icing and drop 
 lumps of it on pans or on paper and bake them and 
 call them kisses or meringues ; hard, rough and 
 cracked open little lumps of sugar as Ihey are, 
 and many a country baker exhibits the same thing 
 in his window, never seeming to know that there is 
 a trick and touch beyond that, with the same mate- 
 rial, that makes the meringue swell and round itself 
 like the top of a mushroom, into a shell as thin as 
 paper — the meringues and finger macaroons of the 
 fine con fee ionaries. There are measures and rules 
 for these, and the finest are easy enough when one 
 knows how. 
 
 These are trifles of course not to be compared with 
 the importance of making good bread and puddings, 
 yet if one makes such "pretties" at ail they should 
 be in the highest degree excellent. We have found 
 oral instructions always useless to the many who have 
 tried to make fine meringues. The cook-books give 
 a dry formula and leave you to hit or miss as it may 
 hippen. Therefore we shall be particular to explain 
 all the trick there is about them, belie-ving that at 
 any rate printed words may be quite as good as 
 actual examples for intelligent readers, who can refer 
 to them again if necessary. 
 
 138. 
 
 Meringue Paste- 
 
 This in various forms has had to be mentioned 
 often in these columns. It is always white of egg 
 and sugar, but is sometimes soft meringue as on 
 lemon pies, and sometimes nearly all sugar as in 
 cake icing and ^'kisses." « 
 
 130. Meringues a la Creme. 
 
 These are made in two different ways, the first 
 makes perhaps the finest and smoothest glazed mer- 
 ingue resembling frosted glass, but the paste must 
 be used immediately as it soon becomes too thin to 
 keep shape. 
 
 1 pound of powdered sugar. 
 10 whites of eggf. 
 
 1 or 2 teaspoonfu's oT flavoring extract. 
 
 Have everything cold and dry to begin with. Whip 
 the white of eggs in a deep bowl with a whisk made 
 of a bunch of wires, till it will not fall out when 
 turned upside down, add the sugar and flavoring all 
 at once and stir it in just enough to mix it well and 
 no more. Have ready some strips of writing paper 
 two inches wide and pieces of boards (not pine) to 
 bake the meringues on. Place spoonfuls egg- 
 shaped on the strips of paper, not too close, smooth 
 them with a knife, sift powdered sugar all over them, 
 shake oflF the surplus, place the strips on the boards 
 and dry-bake them with the oven door partly open. 
 They need tp bake nearly or quite half an hour. 
 
 They can be lifted oflF the paper when cold. Tha 
 boards prevent a crust forming on the bottom and 
 the soft remainder inside can be scooped out. Fill 
 as directed in the next receipt. 
 
 140. 
 
 Meringue Puffs— An Easier Way. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Flavoring extract. 
 
 8 drops of acetic acid, or a pinch of tartaric, or a 
 little lemon juice. 
 
 Put half the whites in a bowl without beating, 
 and all the sugar with them and beat together with 
 a wooden spoon or paddle. It may save half the 
 labor and insures success to have all the utensils and 
 ingredients quite cold to begin with. It quickens 
 the process if the beating can be done with two pad- 
 dles, using both hands as regular workmen do. The 
 bowl should be a deep one holding two quarts. 
 
 The sugar and egg at first are as stifi" as dough. 
 Beat rapidly and constantly for about 16 minutes, 
 when it should be white and rather firm cake icing. 
 Now add the remaining 4 whites of egg, one at a 
 time, and beat a few minutes between each one, but 
 before the last one is added put in the acid and 
 the flavoring. 
 
 The whole time of beating is about 25 minutes. 
 An essential point is to beat the icing after the addi- 
 tion of each white until it will again draw up in 
 peaks after the paddle is lifted from it, except the 
 last white which should not be beaten much as it 
 forms the gloss and smoothness on the meringues 
 when they are baked. 
 
 Drop this meringue paste in egg shapes on baking 
 pani instead of on paper as in the last receipt, and 
 these being made with granulated sugar instead of 
 powdered do not need any Eugar sifted over, they 
 look better without. 
 
 Bake in a very slow oven till pale straw color and 
 dry. They slip from the pans easily when cold. 
 
 Cut out the thin bottom crusts with a penknife* 
 and fill the meringues with whipped cream sweet, 
 ened and flavored, or with wine jelly, and either 
 place two together by the bottoms or join them 
 two together side by side with melted candy 
 or icing, like an open walnut shell, and pile wipped 
 cream or chopped jelly upon them. These mer- 
 ingues likewise look well singly as cups filled with 
 bright jellies of different colors and with ice creams. 
 
 Instead of placing the meringue paste on the pans 
 with spoon and knife it is much better to use the 
 sack and tube, such as lady-fingers are made with 
 — a funnel shaped canvas bag with a tin tube in the 
 pointed end, the tube about J inch in diameter at 
 the narrow end for these. Fill the sack with the 
 paste and press it out in the size and shape desired. 
 
Sb 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBT OOOK. 
 
 141. Rose Meringue Pufife. 
 
 Hiving made the meringue paste according to the 
 preceding directions, color it, or a part of it, of a 
 delicale pink and flavor with rose extract. Drop 
 with the sack and tube pieces like large marbles on 
 baking pans previously greased and then vfiped dry, 
 and bake slowly without color. These rise rounded 
 and nearly hollow and have a gauzy appearance 
 when rightly baked. 
 
 Sometimes the first panful of any of these varie- 
 ties put into the range will run together and melt 
 and come out worthless, and the next come out 
 perfect meringues, or one side of a pan will be 
 spoiled and the remainder good. This shows that 
 the baking is the critical part of the making, and 
 that is what we never can teach by word of mouth. 
 At a certain gentle heat the egg in the meringues 
 cooks and dries in shape, but at a higher degree the 
 sugar melts and runs to candy in bubbles. A.t an 
 insufficient degree of heat the meringue dries as it 
 would in the sun and does not swell and change its 
 appearance. In the brick oven after the bread has 
 been withdrawn is the proper place to bake mer- 
 ingues. 
 
 143. Chocolate Merinarue Puffs. 
 
 There is nothing of the kind choicer or more 
 fragile than these. Only a slight change in the 
 ingredients from the foregoing varieties. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 6 whites of eggs. 
 
 3 ounces of grated common chocolate — a heaping 
 cupful 
 3 drops of acetic acid. 
 
 2 teaspoonfula of vanilla extract. 
 
 Beat up the icing as directed for meringue puflFs, 
 using 6 whites instead of 8, and when it is finished 
 mix in the chocolate thoroughly. Drop round por- 
 tions with the sack and tube on baking pans and 
 bake at a very gentle heat These rise rounded 
 like a mushroom, and nearly hollow. They slip 
 from the pans ea-ily when cold. 
 
 143. Almond Meringue Puffe. 
 
 Take some of the white icing as made for mer- 
 ingue puffs, drop round portions like large marbles 
 01 baking pans and stick 5 or 6 halves of almonds 
 that have been blanched and split, in each one, in 
 circular order, and bake carefully. 
 
 144. Oocoanut Macaroons. 
 
 Make the white ising or meringue paste as directed 
 for meringue puffs and add to it when finished 8 
 ounces of desiccated cocoanut. Drop pieces size of 
 walnu 8 v.ith a spoon and knife point, on greased 
 baking pans and bake in a very slack oven. These 
 
 favorites for the cake baskets. The sugared kind 
 of desiccated cocoanut is the best to use. Care 
 should be taken to have the icing well made a d 
 firm before adding it, for no additions of flour or 
 starch will do any good if the icing is inclined to 
 run in the first place. And too much care cannot 
 be taken with the baking. Let the macaroons re- 
 main on the pans till cold. 
 
 145. Almond Rings and Fingers. 
 
 Make the same as the preceding with 8 ounces of 
 blanched almonds minced very small. Put a smaller 
 tube in the forcing sack, and form finger shapes and 
 rings of the almond meringue paste on baking pans, 
 and bake them in a very slack oven. These all bake 
 light and nearly hollow and have a fine glazed sur. 
 face. 
 
 The foregoing varieties, which can all be made 
 out of one large bowl of meringue paste, form a hand- 
 some assortment for the cake stands, to build pyra- 
 mids, to place around glass bowls of fruit, to deco- 
 rate cakes and to fill icing or nougat baskets with. 
 
 146. 
 
 Common Macaroons. 
 
 12 ounces of almonds. 
 
 8 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 4 eggs. Pinch of salt. 
 
 Crush the almonds without taking off the skins, 
 with a rolling-pin upon the table. Mix them and 
 the sugar and flour together in a bowl. Drop the 
 eggs in the middle and mix the whole into a rather 
 soft dough. Place in lumps size of cherries on 
 baking pans very slightly greased. Bake in a slack 
 oven light brown. A few bitter almonds or peach 
 kernels mixed in improves them. 
 
 147. Meringue Cakes in General. 
 
 Make white icing or meringue paste according to 
 directions in preceding articles and add two more 
 whites to thin it Color some of it and leave some 
 white. Spread it over sheets of any sort of cake, or 
 on small cakes and bake in a very slack oven with 
 something under the cakes to keep them from too 
 much baking at bottom. Granulated sugar may be 
 sifted over the top before baking, or colored sugar 
 sand on the white. 
 
 148. About Eggs and Egg Beating. 
 
 One of the very first cook-books I ever picked up 
 cautioned the reader not to stop beating the eggs 
 that were once commenced, because they would go 
 down "and no human power can whip them up 
 light again." The statement is altogether erroneous 
 and a very mischievous one for the clats of learners 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 who are always seeking excuses for bad work. And 
 it went on to say, "and sometimes they cannot be 
 whipped to perfect lightness at all In that case 
 you should procure some fresher eggs," eto. 
 
 Hotel work admi-s of no apologies, and when the 
 steward and cooks plan the dinner thpy cannot afford 
 to mvte the appearance of a dish contingent upon 
 the caprice of a di zen of eggs, whether they will 
 choose to come up light or not. 
 
 The ease or difflcu'ty cf beating up eggs, mpringvie, 
 icing, sponge cake snd the rest depends upon the 
 degree of deufity or viscidity ( f the f g?s rr the white 
 of eggs, and tha^ often depends upon the tempera- 
 ture; they are thicker when c Id, and when x;arm 
 the white of eggs sometimes becomes so tbin as to 
 have no more power t > hold the air bubbles beaten 
 into it than so much water. 
 
 Only last winter a man who had worked with me 
 was boarding at a small hotel and h^ippened in the 
 bar room when some men who couldn't were try- 
 ing to beat up the eggs for the Chri^tra^is egg nogg. 
 Tfapy had the eggs in a tin pail and eat by the stove 
 taking spells with each other and beating for all 
 that was out, without the least sign of success. As 
 soon as the man saw what was the matter he took 
 the pail, went outride and set it on the snow, and 
 in ten minutes h d succeeded in converting the 
 eggs into a pailful of foam, and the men who couldo't 
 allowed that it was a little trick worth knowing. 
 
 Sometimes the eggs can be beaten up quite as 
 easily when warm, bat thit is when they have lost 
 part of the wa^er they contain by evaporation, as 
 even ep'gs in the 8h?ll wi'l do in dry weather, and 
 thus become as thick as if made cold. 
 
 149. 
 
 Dried Eggs. 
 
 White of eggs poured thinly on platters soon 
 evaporates and becomes a powder like pulverized 
 glass. This is easily soluble, even to the touch of a 
 moist finger, can be kept a long time dry and then 
 dissolved in water and used as well as fresh. If the 
 powder ( btained from two cups of white of eggs be 
 diasolved in only one cup of water it can be beaten 
 to fioth for icing, etc., in a minute or two whether 
 warm or cold. That is the result of condensation 
 The yolks of eggs dried alone are not soluble bu^ 
 the entire egg beaten together and dried slowly in 
 wUer, and mors npid.y if mixed with sugar before 
 drying. 
 
 150. 
 
 The varieties of macaroons "kisses" and meringues 
 
 that might be given would fill several columns, but 
 there is no need Scores of things of this class 
 with imposing names are but the variations played 
 upon the foundation of a few simple and well known 
 combinations. Any one who has made perfectly the 
 few vaiieies we have described can easily discover 
 new changes for himself. The proportion of minced 
 
 almonds in the white macaroons may be doubled ; 
 meringues baked on boards may be made extremely 
 email, placed two together with a spot of apricot 
 Jam inclosed ; some may be dredged while still moist 
 before baking with chopped pistachio nurs, etc., etc. 
 These things are not needed by name to vary the 
 hotel bill of fare as some other things that we have 
 to do with are, but are always bunched together as 
 assorted cakes, small cakes or cakes and confection- 
 eries. The following summary will have meaning 
 for those who may have essayed the making of 
 meringues a la creme, or macaroons, and failed. 
 
 1 pound of sugar and 4 whites of eggs beaten 
 with a paddle till light — about ^ an hour — makes a 
 stiff cake icing and bakes hard and solid in the shape 
 it is dropped on the pan. 1 pound of sugar and 6 
 whites makes soft or finishifig icing, and bakes in 
 meringues that are partly hollow but still dry and 
 hard, rattling together like walnuts. 1 pound and 
 8 whites makes the thin and fragile meringue we 
 have described and the finer qualities of macaroons, 
 and when the paste beats up easily, as is the case 
 when the conditions are right, another white may be 
 added with advantage. 
 
 For twelve whites to a pound whip the whites with 
 a wire egg whisk at first. 
 
 The acetic acid should be added to the icicg only 
 when it is nearly finished. Its effect in whitening 
 and stiffening the icing will be seen at once. 
 
 The common trouble in making icing or meringue 
 paste is its tendency to run out of shape and drip off 
 the cakes covered with it. This cannot be remedied 
 by the addition of more sugar, which indeed only 
 increases the trouble, but must be prevented by care 
 in the beginning, by having the ingredients cold and 
 not damp and by using enough sugar to the eggs at 
 starting to make a stiff dough that can hardly be 
 stirred, but will get thinner as the sugar dissolves, 
 and the beating done must be rapid beating, not 
 stirring around. Granulated sugar can be made into 
 meringues or icing with more ease and certainty 
 than powdered sugar. 
 
 The annexed are candies but match well the mer- 
 ingues and macaroons, with the drawback, however, 
 of being solid sugar and costlier, for their size than 
 the articles of their list. These caramels sell well in 
 the shops. 
 
 Oocoanut Caramels, White and Red. 
 
 151. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of desiccated cocoanut. 
 
 A small half cupful of water. 
 
 Coloring. 
 
 Set the sugar and water over the fire in a small 
 bright kettle and boil about 5 minues, or till the 
 pyrup bubbles up thick and ropes from the spoon, 
 and do not stir it. Then put in the oocoanut, stir to 
 
40 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 mix, and begin at once and drop the candy by table 
 spoonfuls on a buttered baking pan. Reserve a few 
 spoonfuls, make it hot again and color with cochineal 
 and thin with a spoonful of water. Drop a spot of 
 the red on each of the white caramels. Should the 
 candy become set in the kettle before all is used it 
 may be dissolved by adding a spoonful of water and 
 setting it on the range again. When fresh grated 
 cocoanut is used the sugar needs to be boiled to the 
 candy point, or 3 or 4 minutes longer. 
 
 The yolk of an egg may be mixed with a portion 
 of the ^andy instead of red coloring as above to 
 make a yellow color, and melted chocolate added for 
 another variety. 
 
 15S. 
 
 We set out white cakes, fruit cakes, pound and 
 
 yeast raised cakes, but if we may judge by the cri 
 terion of the quantity used where people have free 
 choice, sponge cake and the numerous varieties 
 from the same mixture, all made without butter, 
 hold the first place as favorites. Italian cakes is the 
 general term for the class ; diet- bread cake is the 
 fanciful name for sponge cake sometimes found in 
 old-time cook-books. The loaf cakes of this sort* 
 whether large or small, are not so good when stale, 
 and in some large confectionaries having reputations 
 to keep up, it is made a rule never to sell any over 
 a day old over the counter, but such stock is disposed 
 of at a reduced rate to small dealers. 
 
 The good quality ol all these varieties depends 
 upon the same precautions being observed as in the 
 case of meringues and macaroons, just fully ex- 
 plained in the preceding columns. 
 
 153. 
 
 Lady Fingers or Naples Biscuits. 
 
 8 ounces of powdered sugar. 
 Quarter cupful of water — J gill. 
 
 9 eggs. 
 
 10 ounces of flour. 
 
 Separate the eggs, the whites from the yolks, and 
 set the whites on ice in a large bowl. Have the 
 flour also in a cold place. 
 
 Put the sugar and water in a deep bright saucepan 
 over the fire, add the yolks of the eggs and beat 
 with a wire egg whisk till the mixture is warm but 
 not hot — 5 minutes. Then set the saucepan in a 
 pan of cold water, and continue beating 15 minutes 
 more till the mixture is become cold, thick and 
 whitish and twice its original bulk. Whip the whites 
 to a firm froth that will not fall out of the bowl up- 
 side down, and mix them lightly with the other and 
 then stir in the flour, also without beating, and only 
 stirred with a spoon suflBciently to hide it from 
 tight. 
 
 The above receipt is well worth learning as it is 
 good for a great variety of Italian cakes and will 
 not have to be repealed here, except as we shall 
 show another v\ay of doing the same thing. 
 
 To form the lady.fingers put some of the batter 
 into the forcing sack having a tin tube in it from a 
 quarter to half an inch in diameter, and force it out 
 in finger lengths on sheets of blank paper, with an 
 inch of space between each one Sift powdered 
 sugar plentifully all over them. Take hold of two 
 corners of the sheet of paper (which may be of half 
 newspaper size) and shake off the surplus sugar on 
 to the table, and lay the sheet of cakes on a baking 
 pan placed readyt Bake 8 or 10 minutes in a mod- 
 etate oven, allowing the cakes to become no more 
 than deep straw color. 
 
 To get the lady-fingers off the paper it is necessary 
 to lay the sheet, cakes downwards, on a table and 
 brush the paper over with water. The cakes will 
 thea peel off. Place them two together. The mois- 
 ture will cause them to adhere. 
 
 154. 
 
 Assorted Italian Oakes— Six Ways. 
 
 1. Sponge drops: Proceed as for lady- fingers and 
 drop the batter on paper in round shape, large or 
 small; according to fancy. 
 
 2. Place fiat sponge drops by twos together with 
 jelly spread between, or lemon or orange paste. 
 
 3. Have ready a lot of sponge drops. Make two 
 or more colors and flavors of boiled icing or glaze, 
 (directions for making which have already been 
 given,) and dip the bottom of each cake, holding it 
 on a fork, then set the cakes on baking pans to dry. 
 
 4. Instead of dipping the bottoms let the tops of 
 the sponge drops receive the icing, and when dry 
 place them by twos together of different colors of 
 glaze with yellow orange paste or conserve between 
 them. 
 
 5. Have some finely minced almonds, pistachios, 
 hickory nuts, or desiccated cocoanut ready and mix 
 with the batter after the manner of macaroons and 
 dredge granulated sugar over the cakes instead of 
 powdered before baking. 
 
 6. Instead of mixing the minced almonds in the 
 batter mingle powdered sugar with it and dredge it 
 over the moist tops of the cakes before baking. 
 
 155. 
 
 Small Savoy Oakes or Savoy Biscuits. 
 
 Make the same batter as for lady-fingers and 
 flavor it with vanilla. Bake it either in small paper 
 ca? es made oi writing paper, or in jem or patty pans 
 fastened together by the dozen. Prepare the cases 
 or pans by brushing them over with clear melted 
 butler and shaking powdered sugar about in them 
 instead of flour as with other cake3, and sift powd- 
 ered sugar over the tops of the cakes before baking. 
 These cakes bake quickly and should be light col- 
 ored. 
 
 156. Savoy Cake, Large. 
 
 The same as the preceding, baked in a large or 
 fancy shaped mold coated with powdered sugar; 
 powdered sugar also sifted on top of the cake form- 
 ing a glazed surface when baked. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 41 
 
 When we come to examine thoroughly the most 
 authoritative, the most noted and the cos'liest works 
 on cookery extant, and to sift their methods and 
 directions in the full light of a lifetime's working 
 experience in ord r to discover the simple princi- 
 ples that mu««t underlie every successful method a 
 good deal is revealed that looks like charlatanry and 
 owlish pretense. 
 
 In this little matter of Italian cakes, to look at 
 the imposing lists of varieties, each with its name, 
 its own set of weights and proportions and mode of 
 procjdure, one would think it would take about a 
 century to learn them all, but when we know in ad- 
 vance that every one must rest upon the simple 
 sponge cake mixture however well disguised we are 
 acquainted with (he whole of them already. The 
 standard sponge cake mixture, as it may fairly be 
 called, is 1 pound of sugar, 12 eggs and 12 ou ces 
 of flour. The nature of the ingredients will not 
 admit of a deviation of over an ounce or two. But 
 if in writing a receipt we designate say three-fifths 
 of Ihese proportions cf each article, and for the next 
 variety two-fifths or two-thirds or one-half, the only 
 difference in result will be in the number of cakes 
 produced, but the unfamiliar weights and numbers 
 make it appear on the surface as if each variety had 
 an entirely different composition. 
 
 The work that the head of either culinary depart- 
 ment of a hotel can actually do with his own hands 
 must be but a small portion of the whole, and how- 
 ever skillful he may be he must be largely dependent 
 upon his assistants for the general excellence of his 
 department. But these assistants cannot know and 
 are not expected to leirn a different formula for 
 every different thing they are required to make. Th'^ 
 head mnn will get the more help from those working 
 under him the more he can simplify the processes 
 he gives them to carry out. 
 
 The receipt already given under the head of Naples 
 biscuits is a good one, but it is only spo ge cake 
 mixture at last, and there is a simpler way that may 
 be intrusted to the boys with perfect safety to make 
 all the varieties of Italian cakes that are at all neces 
 sary or desirable, and that is only to make common 
 sponge cake batter in a plain and common way. 
 
 15Y. 
 
 Spon&re Cake. 
 
 14 ounces of sugar. 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 12 ounces of flour. 
 
 Put the eggs and sugar together in a kettle, tin 
 pail, or deep pan, set in a vessel of ice water and 
 beat the mixture rapidly f r half an hour by the 
 clock Then lightly s*ir in the flour. If the beat- 
 ing be fiithful y perform-^d this sponge cike batter 
 can be used to make lady-fingers, savoy cike3, plain 
 ung'azed e po-^ge cakes, jelly rolls and the ha-f dozen 
 varieties of Italian small ekes alre-.dy described. 
 
 One day one of my boys showed me such an as!»ort- 
 ment as the above all made out of a kettle of sponge 
 cake batter 4 times the quan ity of the receipt, and 
 when (hey hive been approved, with a sly look he 
 said: " But I was late and only beat the eggs and 
 sugar 20 minutes." 
 
 «' Your ingredients were in good condition and the 
 atmosphere is dry and cold. There are exceptions 
 to every rule, but yoi*. must work by the rule and not 
 the excepti>n. Besides there ia a good deal in 
 knowing how to beat effectively." 
 
 168. 
 
 Butter Spongfe Oake. 
 
 1 pound cf granulated sugar. 
 
 10 eggs. 
 
 8 Of 10 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 cupful of milk — J pint. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 Beat the sugir and eggs together a few minutes 
 as if for sponge cake, melt the butter and beat it in, 
 add the milk, then the powder and then the flour 
 and stir up well. Flavor if desired. 
 
 If I had to lose the knowledge of all kinds of cakes 
 but one I should choose the above. It is compara- 
 tive'y cheap; when fresh it is as good as any, and 
 answers more purposes than any other mixture 
 made. In the exigencies that often overtake us when 
 the hctel business is good, I have frequently begun 
 when the doors were just opened for dinner, and 
 had large sheets of this light cake 1 or 2 inches 
 thick and nicely glazed with sugar baked on top 
 ready to send in when the plates were changed 
 either as pudding or cake — about 25 minutes from 
 the time of beginning— which could not be done 
 with any richer mixture. 
 
 150. White Butter Sponge Oake. 
 
 The same as the preceding made with the surplus 
 white of eggs often lefc over from salad making, etc. 
 Use 1 pound of whiles instead of the 10 eggs and 
 add an ounce more butter. . 
 
 It makes jelly cakes; may have raisins or currants 
 mixed in, and if made cold enough to keep shape 
 makes very fair sponge drops or other small cakes. 
 It is the best also for the f-llowing. 
 
 160. 
 
 Oream Oake or "Washington Pie *' 
 
 Bake (he butter sponge cake on jelly cake pans, 
 quite thin, and place two sheets together with pastry 
 cream thickly spread between. The pastry cream is 
 the same that is used to fill cream pufts, which see 
 or index. 
 
 161. Oorn Starch Blanc Mange. 
 
 2 quarts of milk and a cupful mere. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
42 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 -^ 
 
 6 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 A pinch of salt. Flavoring. 
 
 Boll the milk with the eugnr in it. Mix the starch 
 with the extra cup cf milk, stir it in and let cook 
 a few minutes. Take from the fire, be t in the but 
 ter to whi'en it, flavor, and put the blai c mange 
 immediately into custord cups previous'y wet with 
 water. When cold take it "but of the cups and serve 
 cither wi*h a little tiweeteced cream, or iruii, or fruit 
 jelly. Infetead of cups it may be spread in bright 
 pans, cut ia square blocks and served with the 
 smooth bjttom side up. 
 
 io;3. 
 
 Corn Starch Jelly. 
 
 This can be very nice when ricely made ; if not 
 made sour and harsh wi<h too much lemon nor hard 
 and opaque with too much etarch. 
 
 1 quart of water and a half pint over. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 small lemon, 
 
 3 ouncs of corn starch — 3 heaping tablespoonfuls. 
 
 Boil the water with the sugar in it aod add to it 
 the juice of the lemon and about half the rind 
 shaved off thin and cut in small pieces. Mix the 
 starch with the extra cup of witer, stir it into the 
 boiling syrup and let boil slowly for about 10 min- 
 utes to lose its milky appearance and become almost 
 clear. Pour it into custard cups or any kind of 
 molds. Serve in saucers with a sf oonful oi sweet- 
 ened cream whipped to froth. This jelly looks bet, 
 ter if colored either with burnt sugar or like the 
 following kind. 
 
 1G3. 
 
 Tapioca Jelly. 
 
 1 quart of raspberry or other fruit juice strained. 
 
 1 cupful of water. 
 12 ounces of sugar, 
 4 ounces of tapioca. 
 
 Crush the tapioca, if the large kind, by rolliog it, 
 and steep it 2 hours in the water and some cf the 
 fruit juic?. Boil the rest of the raspberry juice 
 wih the sugar in i% adl the steepecj tapioc* and let 
 simmer 15 minutes or more. Put it in cups or other 
 molds ard serve it cold with a spoonful of 'roYk. cf- 
 egg custard i.\ the saucer, or with whipped cream. 
 This can a'so be m^de with water and flavorings, as 
 directed for corn starch jelly, 
 
 164. Gelatine Blanc Mange. 
 
 2 quarts of rich milk, 
 12 ounces of sugtr. 
 
 2 ounces ot gelatine. 
 
 Flavorings. 
 
 1 small cupful of cream to whiten it. 
 
 Set the milk over the fire in a bright kettle with 
 the sugar and gelatine in it, and stir them occasion* 
 ally with a wire egg beater till the gelatine is all 
 
 dissolved, but do not let it boil lest the milk curdle. 
 Strain it into a pan and set away to cool. After it 
 hascool.d tt r ia the flavoring- -lemon, vanilla, al. 
 mond, cinnamon or any other — and the cup of cream. 
 Pour it into molds or custard cups, cr an inch deep 
 in milk pans, to be cut when set, in squares or dia- 
 monds and served with cream cr diluted fruit jelly. 
 
 The foregoing is the basis of several kinds of 
 creams to ba described further on, and will be re- 
 ferred to and not repeattd. 
 
 A useful rule to keep in mind is — IJ ounces of 
 gelatine to a quart of water for jeliy, etc., but 1 
 ounce only to a quart of milk. 
 
 Cooper's sheet gelatine sells at about half the price 
 of the imported kinds; it is tasteless and as good as 
 any except that is liable to curdle the milk on actual 
 boiling. The transparent ge amines or isinglass, on 
 the other hand, are as liable to burn on the bottom 
 and are troublesome to dissolve. 
 
 105. 
 
 Condensing Milk for Blanc-Mangers and 
 Creams. 
 
 Skimmed milk which is superabundant in many 
 hotels cr\n be immensely improved for the pastry 
 cook's purposes by condensation. No process is re- 
 quired but to set 4 quarts cf milk on the range in a 
 shallow pan with the sugar in it that is required f .r 
 2 quarts — probably 12 ounces — and let the milk sim. 
 mer till reduced to 2 quirts. The cheesy coating 
 that forms on boiling milk will not appear on that 
 which has sugar in it. 
 
 160. 
 
 Jaune Mange. 
 
 The blanc mange of the preceding receipt with 6 
 yolks of eggs b aten in after the gelatine is dissolved 
 and jufet before taking from the fire. 
 
 Divide the bltnc mange and color only half of if 
 ye-low with 3 or 4 yolks, and thus have two colort 
 cut in Hmall blocks to serve in the same saucers. 
 Jaune is yellow, as blanc is white. 
 
 lOT. Almond Cream Blanc Mange. 
 
 1 pouud of sweet almonds. 
 
 2 ounces of bitter almonds or peach kernels, 
 1 pouud of sug^r, 
 
 1 quart of cold water. 
 
 2 ( unces of gefatine. 
 
 1 small cupful of cream. 
 
 Boil the almonds 2 minutes, then take off the skins 
 and pound them a few at a time in a mortar, adding 
 a little Eugar and a spoonful of water occasionally. 
 Put the a'mond paste in a bowl with the rest of the 
 sugar and water and let steep a while. Dissolve 
 the gelatine in a little warm water, add it to the 
 milk-of-almonds, the cup of cream likewise and 
 strain through a napkin with pressurr-. Set the 
 blanc mange in molds on ice. 
 
THE AMEBICAN PASTRY OOOK. 
 
 48 
 
 168. Floatingr Islands. 
 
 ijL good general bill of fare name for a number of 
 useful trifles cold for dessert that are alike only in 
 being something afloat in a sauce. 
 
 1. "Whipped Syllabub" or "Trifle:" An orna- 
 mental bowl of whipped cream flavored with wine, 
 with a cake in it. 
 
 3 pints of sweet cream. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 cupful of madeira or raisin wine 
 
 2 thin jelly cakes size of saucers. 
 
 Put the jelly cakes in 2 glass bowls. Whip the 
 sweetened and flavored cream with a whip — churn 
 till half of it is froth. Pour the fluid portion into 
 the bowls, pile the froth on top, and drop spots of 
 red jeliy or of cream, colored before churning, all 
 over the surface — "Missis Jane" will dip it out with 
 a silver ladle, at the head of the table. 
 
 2. Italian cakes spread with jelly floating in 
 wine custard, with whipped cream on top. 
 
 2 quarts of boiled custard flavored with a cupful 
 of maraschino. 
 
 40 or 50 sponge drops spread with jelly. 
 
 1 cupful of thick cream. 
 
 Make the sponge drops as directed for lady-fingers, 
 with a crisp stgar coating on top. Spread jelly on 
 the bottoms and drop them, with the jelly side 
 uppermost^ in saucers nearly filled with' the maras- 
 chino custard. Whip the cream a little at a time as 
 wanted fur filling the orders and place a spoonful on 
 each float as they are sent in. 
 
 3. The preceding kind can be made cheaper with 
 plain boiled custard and thin sheets of cake cut in 
 small squares. All the varieties must be very cold 
 to be good. 
 
 4. Place 4 or more lady-fingers, made small for 
 the purpose and not doubled two together, ends 
 downwards in jel'y glasses, and pile upon them some 
 wine flavored whipped cream. 
 
 6. Snow Eggs. Eggs a la Neige. Snow Balls: 
 
 12 whites of eggs. 
 
 1 or 2 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 1 quart of rich yolk-of-egg custard cold. Have a 
 pan of boiling milk and water ready in the oven. 
 Let the whites of eggs be cold to begin with. Whip 
 them firm, add the sugar, then drop egg shaped por- 
 tions with a wet spoon into the boiling milk and 
 water, and let them cook a few minutes with the 
 oven door open. They may either be turned over 
 ■with a skimmer when half done or allowed to acquire 
 some color on top like other meringues. If cooked 
 too long these will shrink to almost nothing. Too 
 much sugar likewise will spoil them. Srrve them 
 cold in a saucer of custird. These egg floats are 
 very old favorites. They may be variously flavored, 
 and may have an ounce of melted common chocolate 
 
 mixed with the whites while beating to make choco- 
 late float. 
 
 6. Make 2 quarts of boiled custard, set in the 
 oven, after letting it cool a little, and drop meringue, 
 the same that is spread over lemon piep, by spoonfuls 
 all over the top. Let the meriigue dy bake with 
 the oven door open 6 or 8 minutts, then set the pan 
 away to get cold before serving. Dish up custard 
 and a spoonful of the meringue in saucers. Care is 
 required not to let the custard cook too much while 
 the meringue is baking. The pan maybe set in 
 another pan of water not boiling. 
 
 169, Snow Float. 
 
 Snow Pudding. Lemon Snow. Lemon Sponge. 
 Mont Blanc, etc , etc , or Russian Jelly. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 
 4 ounces scant of gelatine. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 6 lemons— juice of all, rinds of 2 or 3. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Grate the lemon rinds and squeeze the juice into 
 the sugar in a kettle, add the water and gelatine, set 
 the kettle over the fire and beat the C3ntent8 fre- 
 quently till the gelatine is all dissolved, which will 
 be at about the boiling point. Strain it into an ice 
 cream freezer or other vessel set in ice water, and 
 when the jelly has become nearly cold beat it with 
 a wire egg whisk till frothy a d almost whi e. Then 
 whip the whites of eggs firm, stir them in and beat 
 the whole again till it is set, when it will be like 
 snow. 
 
 Make a yellow custard with a quart of milk, 8 
 yolks and 4 ounces of sugar, and flavor, and serve 
 i£ in the sancers with a spoonful of the float, ice 
 cold. 
 
 Articles like the foregoing come in serviceably 
 when, as so often happens there is no milk to be had, 
 for even the custards to go with them can be made 
 with water. 
 
 For a yellow variety of the Russian jelly or gela- 
 tine float, when it is just at the boiling point stir in 
 the yolks of 8 or 10 eggs quickly and take the jelly 
 from the fire immediately before ihey become cooked. 
 Flavor with lemon extract if necessary and beat it 
 up without the addition of white of eggf. 
 
 Race ginger boiled in the jelly makes another 
 kind. It should be colored with burnt sugar and 
 beaten up like the snow float. 
 
 Lemon juice more or less is essential in them all 
 to correct the taste of gelatine. 
 
 A spoonful of whipped cream can be served with 
 the floats instead of custard. 
 
 Snow float that is left over is all ready to be boiled 
 and run through the jelly bag to make wine jelly of 
 the clearest for the next day The white of egg in 
 it clarifies it and then its strained out. 
 
44 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Why do fifteen families, numbering seventy-five 
 souls, have fifteen very poor cooks preparing fifteen 
 very poor dinners over fifteen different fires vfhen, 
 if they were all together, two skillful cooks with a 
 helpei and a man in the yard and two fires ould 
 prepare a most excellent dinner at less cost for them 
 all? 
 
 170. Fruit Jelly Floats. 
 
 Good firm jellies of fruits can be beaten partially 
 light after the manner of the gelatine kinds pre- 
 ceding, and whipped whites of eggs can be beaten in 
 as a finish. Take quince, peich, currant, or other 
 jelly that is hard enough to cut with a knife and 
 warm it sufficiently to beit. Set the bowl contain- 
 ing it in a pan of ice water to cool it while beating, 
 and to ^ pint of jelly allow J pound of powdered 
 sugar. When light add the whipped whites of 6 
 eggs. Beat 5 minutes more. Keep cold. Serve in 
 saucers of cream. 
 
 Why do fifteen families require as many persons 
 to do the marketing for them, trusting to the 
 butchers and bakers and others for the weights 
 and measures, and trusting to luck for the quality 
 of things bought because the qualities are too small 
 to be worth a person's attention, when, if all were 
 together, one buyer could buy better for them all at 
 once, aided by acquired judgment and knowledge of 
 goods and prices, and scales, weights, measures and 
 books? 
 
 171. Apple Float. 
 
 1 pound of fine, mealy cooking apples pared and 
 quartered. 
 Half cup of water. 
 1 lemon. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 2 whole eggs and 6 whites. 
 Clove or cinnamon extract. 
 
 Stew the apples with the water^ sugar, lemon juice 
 and shaved or grated rind and the butter, in a 
 saucepan with a lid, till they are tender. Rub the 
 pulp through a seive. Add the 2 eggs and cook the 
 mixture 5 or 10 minutes till thick. Then cool, 
 flavor, beat light and add the 6 whites of eggs whip, 
 ped firm and beat 5 minutes more. Keep cold. 
 Serve ia saucers of custard. 
 
 And why do fifteen families living separately have 
 fifteen small portions going to waste when, if all 
 Were together, the small portions in the hands of a 
 skillful cook would make a dish of which nearly all 
 would partake and save a large item in the marke'- 
 
 172. Baked Ooooanut Oustard* 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 Butter size of a guinea egg—l oz. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 8 ounces of desiccated oocoanut. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it. Mix the 
 starch in a bowl with a liitle cold milk, add it to the 
 milk on the fire and take off" immediately with<"ut 
 waiting for it to boil again. Beat in the butter, 
 then the eggs, about half the cocoanut, and pour the 
 custard into two buttered pans where it will be only 
 an inch de?p. Sprinkle the rest of the cocoanut 
 over the tops, and a little sugar over that and bake 
 10 or 15 minutes till set and of a yellow color on 
 top. Must be cold to serve. May have a spoonful 
 of sweetened cream in the saucers. 
 
 And when the ice supply is exhausted and the 
 delicious ice creams a^.d water ices which the fifteen 
 families have learned to prize above all the other 
 contrivances for dessert suddenly fail to appear, 
 why must fifteen persons at least worry over the 
 situation and spend the days in unquietness conjur- 
 ing up cold dishes that shall almost fill the ices' 
 place, when one person making a trade of such 
 knowledge could satisfy them all without eflfort? 
 
 173. Peaches and Cream. 
 
 The harder kinds of peaches should be chopped 
 to the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar 2 
 or 3 hours before the meal. Allow about 4 ounces 
 of sugar to a quart. Soft peaches, after peeling, 
 are best only quartered or E>liced. If admissible 
 serve them ia large glass bowls ornamented with 
 quarters of red or yellow peaches placed in order 
 and a pitcher of cream with each bowl separately. 
 If served individually in saucers pour the cream 
 over only as they are dished up. 
 
 Once we read in the Atlantic Monthli/ a series of ar- 
 ticles in which all such questions as the preceding were 
 asked with the intent of advising a system of co- 
 operative housekeeping under which the fifteen 
 household martyrs, one for each of the said fifleen 
 families, instead of all suffering at once sh uld take 
 turn and turn about doing the work of each depart- 
 ment far the entire co-operating community, It is 
 a good many years ago, but we remember thinking 
 then that the only practicable form of co-operative 
 housekeeping is the American hotel system, modi- 
 fied perhaps in the matters of ^ider separation of 
 rooms and of individual freedom. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 174. Strawberries and Cream. 
 
 It generally mellows and improves the fruit to let 
 it remain covered with sugar in a old place a short 
 time before serving. Serve same as peaches and 
 cream. 
 
 Strawberries, raspberries and peaches in sugar 
 served in saucers of ice cream must be mentioned 
 also as the great public festival delicacies of the 
 season of fruits. For ice creams, either pure cream, 
 ordinary, or corn starch creams see index. 
 
 For the co-operative housekeeping idea has the 
 defect of leaving out the power of discharging in- 
 competents. Under the hotel system when dfflculties 
 arise the heads of departments will make almost 
 superhuman efforts and accomplish almost impossi 
 bilities, partly because of the pecuniary value of 
 their positions but more on account cf the reputation 
 for eflSciency to be m ide or maired. But no c )• 
 operative could be a good cook, for example, who 
 should be in office only one week and out four, and 
 did not care much for the office anyway There are 
 a thousand rocks on which such a community would 
 split up, like the following. 
 
 176. Strawberry Shortcake. 
 
 Scarcely two families or two persons make this 
 alike or believe any other person's way ij the best. 
 
 We are not going to lay down any rule, but as 
 long as people are asked which part of a turkey they 
 they prefer, or how they will have their beefsteak 
 cooked we expect to ask them how they have their 
 strawberry shortcake made. 
 
 The bakers and confectioners, who often sell large 
 quantities generally mike laycs of sweet cake such 
 as the butter sponge cake, and place 3 of the sheets 
 with sweetened strawberries between. 
 
 But plenty of people say that is not right, but 
 what can you expect the bakers lo know about home 
 doings, and they make a rich flaky sort of biscuit 
 dough with a good deal of shortening in and bake a 
 large round cake big as a dinner plate, split it open 
 and place a plenty of strawberries between the two 
 halves. 
 
 And there are others, whose tastes have become 
 Titiated through the enjoyment of the best hotel 
 pies, who say the foregoing kind of short ca'<e is 
 too poor and they want their short cake to be short, 
 so they have the best light and dry puff pastp, or 
 the trimmings of it wh ch have been rolled more, 
 rolled out thin on jelly cake pans, nicely baked, 
 rather dry and crispy, and strawberries with their 
 sugary syrup spread plentifully between two, and 
 powdered sugar on lop. 
 
 But even after these wnys have been tried there 
 remain the weighty que tions of whether after straw- 
 berries have been spread between there shou'd also 
 be more strawberries on the top, and whether the 
 
 short cake of biscuit dough should be buttered before 
 being berried, ar d whether the berries may have 
 cr am mixed with tliem or whether c eam is to be 
 served with the 6hortc«ke. In short, to quote the 
 words of the song, 'How do you like your shortcake 
 done?" 
 
 The best kind of flaky light dough will be found 
 in the receipt for roly-poly puddings. It. is made 
 with half the pie-pa-te quantity of butter and half 
 baking powder, rolled in. 
 
 177. Bavarian Oream. 
 
 1 J pints of milk. 
 
 1^ pints of thict cream, 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of gelatine — full weight. 
 
 1 cupful or leas of maraschino. 
 
 Set the milk ovor the fire with the sug4r nnd gel- 
 atine in it a' d s'ir till the gt^lstine i^ all dissolved — 
 nearly at the boili'^g point. Then strain it into an 
 ice c"eim freezer se*^^ in ice water and let it get 
 nearly cold. Whip the cream to froth. Beat the 
 milk in the frrezT likewise and then mix the two 
 and continue be -ting till the Bivarian is a delicate 
 while sponge, and mix ia the maraschino while 
 beating. 
 
 178. Thfse creams are the most acceptable of all 
 the substitutes for ice ere m, and have the advantage 
 tfeat they can be s t in molds, and different sorts 
 placed on a set table at the same time, or a mold 
 entire serv.d at a family tab'e For hotel tervice it 
 is generally brst to serve them out of ihe ffcezer ia 
 saucers with whipped cream or fruit. They then 
 appear on the bill of fare as : 
 
 Mara chino Bavarian Cream. 
 
 B-ivari<in C^eam wi h Corapole of Pears,— or with 
 grapes, white cherries, or with strawberri'-s not 
 cooked; the comnotes of course to be ice cold, a 
 spoonful served like a sauce with the white cream. 
 
 179, Bavarian Oream Oheap<^'' 
 
 3 pints of rich milk. 
 
 1 cupful of cream. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of gelatine. 
 6 whites of eggs. 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Set the milk over the fi'-e with the sugar and gel- 
 atine in it and stir tiil the gelatine is all dissolved. 
 Do not let it boil Strain into a freezer placed in 
 ice water and when nearly cold enough to set add 
 the cup of creana, beat 10 minutes, whip the 6 
 whites firm, stir that in and beat the cream 5 min- 
 utes more. Flavor while beating with lemon, vanilla, 
 almond, or other extract, instead of miraschino. 
 
46 
 
 THE AMEKICAN PASTKY COOK. 
 
 King Louis did not keep hia huge establishments 
 for profit and made hia Bavarian bbout like this — 
 quite costly : 1 quart of double cream, 2\ ounces of 
 gelatine, 6 ounces of powdered sugar, 1 cup of milk, 
 J cup of noyan or other liqueur. Dissolve the gela- 
 tine in the milk in a varm place. Put the sugir in 
 the cream, "whip it to froth, drain the froth and whip 
 again what drip"? through. Put back in the pan 
 pour the dissolved gelatine to the whipped crjfra a 
 little at a time, add fhe flavor and put the cream in 
 molds slightly oiled with sweet oil and set ot ice. 
 This, it may be observed, is barely one r3move from 
 the iced froths notised nmong th ? ice«". The froth is 
 congealed by means of geUtine very cjld instead cf 
 frost, and might be in glasses as well. 
 
 180. Strawberry Bavarian Oream 
 
 BAVAaVOISE AUX FOAISES. 
 
 1 quart of double cream. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 quart of strawberries. 
 
 2^ ounces cf gelatine. 
 
 Dissolve the gelatine in a little of the cream 
 with as much milk added to thin it. Rub the straw- 
 berriea through a sdve, and add half the sugir to 
 them. Whip the cream with the rest of the sugir 
 in it to froth, mix in the dissolved gelatine, then the 
 strawberry syrup and set ia molds. 
 
 181 Another Way. 
 
 Line j'-lly molds with strawberries dipped in 
 melted jel'y to make them stick, and the molds eet 
 in ice water. When set firm fill the lined molds 
 with either of the foregoing Bavarian creams. 
 
 182 Komau Oream. 
 
 I quart of milk, 
 
 10 ounces cf suga*. 
 
 1| ounces of gelatine — good weight. 
 
 Piece of st'ck cinnamon. 
 
 1 cupful of thick cream. 
 
 12 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 cupful of curacao, or Madeira wine. 
 
 Set the milk over the fire and put in a piece of 
 thick cinnamon, the sugar and gelatine and stir till 
 the gelatine ia all dissolved Be;it the yolks light 
 and pour the milk just about at the boiling point to 
 them. Set on the fire Rgain for a minute but do not 
 let it boil. Strain into a freezer set in ice water. 
 When nearly cold enonjrh to pet whip the cupful of 
 oream and beat it in and fdd the caracao. T&is is a 
 fine dusky yellow cre.im light and spongy, that falls 
 apart in the saucers of its own weiglit. 
 
 183. The particular touch about all of these 
 creams is the gettiug along with the smallest possi- 
 ble quantity of gelatine. They are quite another 
 
 thing and are not really good when made firm and 
 tough with it. The object of the gelatine is to give 
 consistency enough to the milk to allow it to become 
 spongy when b aten like whippe I cre^m. This also 
 necessitates the creams b ing served very cold, a 
 point on which their excellence a'so greatly depends 
 
 184. Italian Cream. 
 
 Only another name for R man cream. The fol 
 lowing U the form with pure cream which, if it 
 were the only way would genera- 'y prec'ude its 
 appearance at hote^ tables The Italians themselves 
 line to flavor it strongly with rum and add ground 
 cinnamon till it look*? brown, 
 
 1 quart of cream to boil, 
 
 1 pint of d uble c earn to whip cold, 
 
 1 pound of sugr. 
 16 yolks of eggs. 
 
 2 ounces of gelatine. 
 
 Stick of cinnamon and piece of orange peel. 
 
 Curacai or sherry or Madeira to flnvor. 
 
 Put the gelitiue in a cup cf milk in a warm place 
 to dissolve sora^ time bef <re wanted. Boil the quart 
 uf creim with the sugar, cinr^amon and orange peel 
 ia it. Beat. iLc yolks and pour them to the boiling 
 cream and immediately take off and etraia into a 
 freezer surrounded with ice water. When nearly 
 cold pour in the dissolved gelatine and beat up 
 light, then whip the pint of double cream to froth 
 and stir it in and lastly the liqueur. 
 
 We will point out here that all of our own ways, 
 which we call hotel ways, being sh »rt and direct, 
 dispense wi h the separate dissolving of the gelatine, 
 which is really a troublesome and time consuming 
 little matter. ^^ e dissolve it ia the milk or cream 
 on the fire, without evei a previous steeping. Still 
 if we hsppen to drop into the work-rcon;s of some 
 restaurant Francaise we shall find them proceeding 
 in a difierent manner, and such reoeipts as the last 
 serve to show what that manner is. 
 
 185. Italian Cream with Compote of 
 Figs 
 
 Cut a pound of fig«i into small pieces and one or 
 two lemons likewise and stew them ti gether with 
 sugar and water. Make the compote ice cold and 
 serve it a spoonful in each saucer with the Roman 
 or Italian cr<»am. A compote of fruit is fruit stewec? 
 in a thick rich syrup. 
 
 186. Rocky Mountain Oream. 
 
 Make Bavarian cream, about half the quantity of 
 the first Bavarian receipt, alvo prepare ab ut a pint 
 of sweet green muscatel grapes, and enough of 
 bright cleir jellies cut in dice to make another pint. 
 When the cream is finished beating and about to set 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 47 
 
 firm mix in the grapes and jellies lightly without 
 breaking them, and pour into a bright milk pan 
 where it will be about 1 J inches deep. Shal e and 
 smooth it down and set on ice Wh?,a to bo served 
 cut acr' S8 in strips 2 inches wide. Cut these again 
 in triangle shapes. Place the piece in the paucer 
 with the point upwards, pyramid form, and a spoon- 
 ful of whipped cream around. 
 
 There should be 3 colors of jelly, clear lemon, 
 amber and red wine. 
 
 187. Ohocolate Cream. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of gelatine 
 
 2 ounces of grated common chocolate. 
 8 yolks of eggs and ?. whites. 
 
 1 cup of cream. 
 
 Vanilla extract. 
 
 Set the milk over the fire with the sugar chocolate 
 and gelatine in it. Beat as it heats with the wire 
 whisk till all is dissolved. Beat the yolks in a bowl 
 and at the first sign of boiling add them to the miik 
 on the fire, let remain about a minute then strain 
 into a freezer set in ice water. 
 
 Rinse out the thick chocolate custard that adheres 
 to the kettle with the cup of cre^m and add that to the 
 other in the freezer. Flavor with vanilla, beat up 
 as it cools and at lait add the 3 whites whipped firm 
 and beat up 5 minutes more. Put tho cre^m in oiled 
 molds or serve it by epoonfuls out of the freezer with 
 a spoonful of sweetened cream whipped to frcth as 
 a sauce 
 
 188. Pistachio Cream. 
 
 Make Bavarian cream half the quanity of the 
 first Bavarian receipt. Throw a pound of pistachio 
 kernels in a vessel of boiling water and in two min- 
 utes take them out, peel, and pound them a few at 
 a time in a mortar with a spoonful of witer. Rub 
 the pas'e through a seive, mix it with the Bavarian 
 while beating and color with spinach green — the 
 pressed out juice of spinach leaves mixed with 
 sugir. 
 
 Where this cream is desired only for its green 
 color as when it is to fill a mold in imitation of a 
 bunch of asparagus with green tops, almonds can be 
 used inste id of pistachios ; they are very much 
 cheaper; and spinach juice coloring used the same. 
 
 189 Rose Cream. 
 
 Make Bavarian, flavor elightly with rose extract 
 ani color it light piuk. 
 
 190 Charlotte Russe. 
 
 Line a plain rak^ mold, or a small round tin pan, 
 or a long and parrow mold made for the purpose 
 with either lady fingers or large pponge d'ops. This is 
 
 done by dipping the edges of the cakes in white of 
 eggs and p'acing them ude by side overlapping each 
 o:her. Then msike Bavarian cream sufficient, and 
 when fi lishel beating, just as it begins to set, fill up 
 the molds wiih it. 
 
 If poured in too thin the cream runs and covers 
 up the cakes, yet it should be fluid enough to settle 
 to the shape and bind them all together. 
 
 Set the charlotte in the refrigerator to become firm 
 and cold. 
 
 191. Bavarian cream is designated as being the 
 filling oftenest empl >jed, but there is no rule in the 
 matter and any other of the creams can be used as 
 well. Charlotte a la Chantilly is charlotte-rus''e 
 filled with the thickest of thick cream sweetened and 
 flavored and whipped to froth and made firm enough 
 to turn out simply by being mide very cold. Char- 
 lotte russe au marasquin is the charlotte filled with 
 marach"no B .varian cream very highly flavored 
 with the liqueur and with corrrspondirgly less 
 sugar. Charlotte russe auz /raises U the charlotte 
 filled wiih strawberry Bavarian cream, or with whcle 
 strawberries iu whipped cream like the mode chan- 
 tilly. 
 
 192 Individual Charlottes 
 
 It is easily prac icable to make them in custard 
 cups with 3 thin lady fingers trimmed a little to 
 shape and tot overlapped. Fill with any of the 
 creims and place thf m in the refrigera or to se' solid. 
 When served have ready some thick whipped cream, 
 turn out the charlottes on ice cream plates and top 
 them with a spoonful of the froth. 
 
 193. Serving Large Charlottes 
 
 Says an old author — Fielding: *• Many exquisite 
 viands m'ght be rejected by the epicure if it was a 
 sufiicient cauee for his contemning of them as com 
 mon and vulgar, that something was to be found in 
 the most paltry aUeys under the same name. * * 
 Where then lies the differ<?nce be ween the food of 
 the nobleman and the porter, if boh are at dinner 
 on the same ox or calf, but in the seasoning, the dress 
 ing, the garnishing, and the setting forthV 
 
 Charlotte-ruise is one of the few royal dishes that 
 have become universally known — by name. But aa 
 common'y met with it is a fine thing * run to seed;'* 
 one of the shabby genteel ; a very distant relation 
 of the original. Ti e first departure uses a pponge 
 cake with the inside all cut out and the omst filled 
 up with a cream or blaac-mange not so bad ; but it 
 falls from that to a lining of slices of any sort of 
 stale cake, of burnt, scraped and trimmed cake, husks 
 and scraps, filled with something sour and nas'y. 
 
 The individual siyle of service makes the long and 
 , • arrow shai.e of mold desirable for slices ?o be cut 
 
48 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 across, but the lining should always be of lady 
 fingers, their thinness and glazed sugar surface ma- 
 king them the most suitable. 
 
 But a large round charlotte may be sliced as well 
 like a cake or cheese and tlie good workman will 
 like to show in such broad slices the sponge-like 
 texture of the cream filling. A spoonful of thick 
 sweetened cream ice cold should be placed in the 
 plate or saucer first. 
 
 104. A charlotte set on the tab!e whole should 
 be ornamented with small piping patterns of cake 
 icing on the sides and a coat of thin icing on top 
 colored very light brown with a red hot salamander 
 held over it. A chantilly charlotte should have no 
 cake lining on the bottom of the mold^ and when 
 turned out should have whipped cream pi'.ed high 
 on top and spotted wi'h red or wi'h pieces of colored 
 jelly. A strawberry ch^irloMe in like manner should 
 have strawbetriea and whipped cream heaped upon 
 it. A border of whipped cream placed around the 
 base, or meringues inverted like cups filled with 
 berries or grapes and set around are other suitable 
 and proper ornaments, and so are the shapes of gel- 
 atine paste colored green with spinach juice as rec- 
 ommended for molds of ice cream. 
 
 195. Parisian Charlotte. 
 
 Receipts and directions f^r making difterent colors 
 of g^aza or boiled icing were given in connection 
 with white cakes near the beginning of this book. 
 Cut some thin sponge drops or sheets of fipooge cake 
 in squares and dip one side of them by means of a 
 fork in the g^aze and let thtm dry and harden. Have 
 several colors. Line plain drum shaped molds with 
 these colored squares checker-board fashion, dip- 
 ping the edges in melted g'aze or candy to make 
 them stick. Then fill up the molds with any of the 
 creams. When cold and set turn out and set on the 
 table whole as directed for charlotte-russe. 
 
 196 Wanted — A Name. Is everything and a^l 
 this country really running to pie? A Chic go lady 
 tourist kindly wishing to do the writer a service de. 
 scribed for him her way of making a "Charlotte- 
 russe" that is highly esteemed among her circle cf 
 friends. It accordingly here appears in place. Bake 
 2 thin shee's of spongecake on jelly cake pans and 
 while they are ftill warm p'ace them on soup plates 
 and press them lightly to the shape. Fill one with 
 whipped cream with gelatine in it (Bavarian cream 
 in effect) and place the other sheet of cake over it 
 like a lid. This is convenient to cut. It can be 
 covered with powdered sugar or with icing. It is 
 good, excellent, but through some miserable preju- 
 dice or other we don't like to call it charlotte-russe. 
 It is too much like pie. 
 
 197. Charlotte for a Small Party. 
 
 And now for the convcn'enoe of those wishing 
 just one charlotte rus-e and riot enough for a ho^el 
 dinner we append a first-class working receipt that 
 will suit. 
 
 2^ pints of thin cream. 
 
 1 teacupful of maraschino. 
 
 7 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 package of Cox's gelatine — 1 J ounces. 
 
 Put the extra half pint of cream in a small sauce- 
 pan and the gelatine and sugar with it, set over the 
 fire and beat with the wire egg whisk till the gela- 
 tine is all dissolved — the quicker the better. Pour 
 the maraschino into the cold cream, then strain in 
 the contents of the saucepan, set the whole in a pan 
 of ice water with salt in it and whip the cream mix- 
 ture till it begics to set, when pour it into the pre- 
 pared mold. 
 
 The mold should be made ready beforehand. A 2 
 quart jelly mold wi 1 d'^, or a cake mold. Line it 
 with lady-fingers placed edge to edge, the edges 
 wetted with white cf egg. Ornament the top on 
 turning out with whipped cream or meringue. 
 
 198 Table Jellies- 
 
 There are jellies made with pure fruit juice fil- 
 tered through paper and set with gelatine — French 
 extras- -we may touch upon them further on. These 
 first considered are the everyd>=y, off hand sort found 
 on hotels tables and in the windows of the confec- 
 tioners who sell them by the mold or glassful, or 
 furnish paity suppers. 
 
 199. Stock Jelly. 
 
 Once making of stock jelly serves for 2 or 3 meals. 
 For 6 quarts take; 
 
 6^ quarts of water. 
 
 3 pounds of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of gelatine. 
 
 10 lemons — ^julce of all, thin shaved rinds of 5. 
 
 1 or 2 ounces of whole spices — cloves, mace, 
 cinnamon. 
 
 10 whites of eggs. 
 
 Put the water in a bright brass kettle, add all the 
 other ingredients — the lemon juice squeezed in 
 without the seeds, the yellow rind pared very thin, 
 and the white of egga'bealen a little with some water 
 mixed in first. The clean egg shells may be put 
 in also to assist in the clarification. Use the sheet 
 gelatine that floats, f )r preference. Then set the 
 kettle on the side of the range and let it slowly come 
 to a boil with occasional stirring. 
 
 Let it boil about half an hour and above all, to 
 avoid the trouble and waste of having to boil it 
 again, be sure that the white foam of egg on top 
 becomes thoroughly cooked so that it will go down 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 49 
 
 and mix with the jelly again like so much meal. 
 Sometimes to accomplish this it is necessary to set 
 the kettle jin the oven a few minutes to get heat 
 enough on the top. 
 
 Then run it through the flannel jelly bag sus- 
 pended from a hook. The boiling having been prop- 
 erly attended to there should be not the slighest 
 difficulty in getting it to run through not only clear 
 but bright and transparent as glass. The first pour- 
 ing coats the inside of the filtering bag with the 
 congealed white of egg and every succeeding running 
 through brightens the jelly. ^ 
 
 The above makes jelly of good quality. It can be 
 made cheaper with less sugar and lemons. It may 
 be set down as a rule that jelly cannot be made this 
 way without more or less lemon juiee or some acid 
 equivalent — it will not run through a filtering bag 
 without. 
 
 200. Jellies in Variety. 
 
 The stock having been made it can now be divi- 
 ded into as many kinds as may be desired, thanks to 
 the flavoring extract makers. 
 
 But the stock jelly is already good and mildly 
 flavored and care should be taken not to over season 
 it, or injure its bright appearance. 
 
 Jelly is quite as much for ornament as use. It 
 can easily be made to attract notice at the finest table 
 for its lustre and rich colors even if never tasted, 
 therefore its appearance is the main consideration. 
 Lemon extract cannot be put in jelly because it 
 makes a milky appearance and dims its brilliancy. 
 Orange extract the same Most of the other extracts 
 can be used to flavor. Use wine in small proportion 
 to mix with some of the stock and color deep red, 
 but run through the jelly bag again while it is yet 
 warm. Flavor some with vanilla and color it either 
 amber or brown with burnt sugar, and run it 
 through the jelly bag again. Flavor some with straw- 
 berry and color it pink, and leave some plain, pale 
 yellow. 
 
 201. Soda Water Jellies. 
 
 Having a number of difterent colors and flavors 
 prepared as above, fill a sufficient number of tall 
 thin stem glasses with them, but not quite to the 
 top, and set them in a cold place to harden. Make 
 the foam for the tops by beating a pint of jelly with 
 a wire egg whisk in a pan set in ice water and when 
 it is partly frothed whip up the whites of 3 eggs, 
 add them to the jelly and continue beating them 
 together a minute or two. Then pile the white froth 
 thus made on top of the glasses. Keep them in a 
 cold place to solidify, and serve them very cold. 
 These make a fine appearance in pyramidal form on 
 a set table. 
 
 202. One Quart of Jelly. 
 
 The rule is, for good quality : 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 1^ ounces of gelatine. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar- 
 
 1 or 2 lemons 
 
 1 teaspoonful of whole mixed spices. 
 
 2 whites of eggs and the clean shells. 
 
 But a cupful of water more must be added to 
 allow for evaporation and loss unless it is intended 
 to add J pint of wine to the stock jelly produced. 
 
 For jellies to serve ordinarily at dinner pour them 
 in bright pans, an inch or more in depth and when 
 set cut out little diamond shaped blocks and serve 
 two such pieces of different color in the same saucer. 
 
 203. Champagne Jelly. 
 
 Dissolve one package of Cox's or other fine shred 
 gelatine in ^ pint of hot water with 6 ounces of 
 sugar in it. Beat about over the fire to dissolve it 
 quickly. Then strain the dissolved gelatine into a 
 quart of champagne in a large bowl. Set on ice and 
 when it is about to set take out half a cupful and 
 beat it with a wire egg whisk 1 minute. Return the 
 frothed jelly to the bowl, stir round once and let it 
 remain on ice to solidify, either in Hie bowl to be 
 cut out in blocks, or in glasses. There will be bub. 
 bles all through the jelly and a thin froth on top. 
 
 204. Sparkling Wine Jelly. 
 
 Take the brightest wine jelly, deep red, as made 
 by the sfock jelly method, ana froth a little of 
 it and manage as directed for champagne jelly, stir- 
 ring the froth in with only one turn — not beating, 
 which would destroy its clearness — whipped jelly 
 can be congealed in the bottom of a mold first, nearly 
 cold jelly poured in and the whole turned out at last 
 with the froth on top. 
 
 205. Punch Jelly. 
 
 Make a quart of stock jelly by the 1 quart re- 
 ceipt, and when finished add to it a small cup of 
 strong tea and a small cup of mixed wine and 
 brandy. Cut a lemon in small thin slices and let 
 them float in it. Dish up with pieces of lemon in 
 each portion. 
 
 206. Pure Fruit Juioe Jellies. 
 
 For orange jelly : Put the thin shaved rind of 2 
 oranges in a bowl, squeeze in the juice of 4. Boil 
 a quart of water with a pound of sugar and pour 
 the hot syrup to the orange peel and juice. Dissolve 
 2 ounces of gelatine in a cup of hot water separately. 
 When the syrup has stood long enough to draw the 
 
60 
 
 THE A.MERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 flavor of the orange peel filiter it— instead of using 
 white of eggs to clarify — through a flannel bag lined 
 with a sheet of blotting paper. Afterwards mix in 
 the dissolved gelatine. 
 
 All sorts of fresh fruit juices can be jellified in 
 the above manner. For a guide to the proportions 
 of fruit and sugar required in so much water see 
 the receipts for fruit ices. The rule for gelatine is 
 l^ ounces to a quart of water or juice. 
 
 207. Calf's Foot Jelly. 
 
 Calves' feet make good jelly as does gelatine, it 
 is only more brittle and liable to fall apart of its 
 own weight. 4 feet will produce about a gallon of 
 jelly. Set them on to bcil in 3 gallons of water and 
 keep them simmering at the back of the range till 
 they are dissolved and the liquor is reduced to less 
 than half, which may be in 8 or 10 hours. For 
 further directions see the Book of Salads. When 
 the calf's foot jelly has been divested of grease it is 
 the same thing as gelatine and water and is ready to 
 have sugar and other ingredients added to make 
 stock jelly in the usual way. 
 
 208^ Ornamental Jellies. 
 
 1. Fruits in jelly: With the very clearest and bright- 
 est jelly various pretty devices can be carried out. 
 Place a fine bunch of grapes in a mold and fill up with 
 jelly. Or partially line a mold with fruits dipped in 
 jelly and let them get cold in place before filling up 
 with jelly. Orange and lemon slices float, but they 
 can be dipped in warm jelly and pushed down to 
 line molds of jelly that is nearly set. Peach and 
 apricot quarters may be done the same way. 
 
 2. Fish and other illusions in jelly : Many jelly 
 molds and articles of crockery ware have fishes and 
 fruits stamped in for ornament. Pour a teaspoonful 
 of blanc-mange or jaune mange into the pattern, set 
 it in ice water, turning it about so as to thinly coat 
 it, then fill up the hollow with jelly and let it all 
 set firm. Line a large jelly mold with a coating of 
 clear jelly turned about in it in a pan of ice water. 
 Place your little white or yellow fishes on the lining 
 and when they have become solidly set fill up the 
 mold with clear jelly nearly cold. The fishes appear 
 solid enough from the outside but when cut all that 
 can be found of them is a small mark no thicker 
 than a knife blade. 
 
 3. Macedoine jelly : Cut different colored jellies 
 in small dice and mix them together.. Moisten with 
 a little clear jell" melted but nearly cold and fill 
 molds with it. 
 
 4. Fill molds wiih 3 colors by letting one larger 
 set solid and then pouring another kind upon it. 
 
 209. Geneva Lake Cakes. 
 
 Device f )r showing fine icing work that is lost on 
 large pieces Make 2 ielly cakes of 3 or 4 layers 
 each and of diameter as broad as the largest cake 
 stands will hold, and cut out the inside of all but the 
 bottom layer of the cakes, making a basin sur. 
 rounded by a wall Spread the inside wi'h some 
 kind of jam to hide the cake and then fill them to 
 the brim with the clearest jelly, amber color for one 
 and light red for the other. Ice over the top sur- 
 rounding rim of cake. 
 
 The jelly when poured in must be just at the 
 point of beginning to set. If too firm its transpar- 
 ency will be destroyed, and if too thin it may soak 
 into the cakes. 
 
 On the glassy surface of these lakes may be placed 
 white swans of the finest icing, water lilies, boats, 
 gondolas, arbors set on islands, trees, temples, foun- 
 tains, all of the smallest practicable size. Every 
 thread of the finest icing shows plainly on the sur- 
 face of these jelly charlottes, and besides they are 
 very good to eat. 
 
 210. White Mountain Gems. 
 
 Make thin sponge drops about the size of the 
 top of a teacup and place spots of meringue paste or 
 icing all around their edge to form a rim or border. 
 The spots should be the size of small cranberries and 
 a high point should be drawn up as the tube leaves 
 them. Bake a few minutes with the oven door 
 open to dry the icing straw color. Fill the centers 
 with a spoonful of wine or lemon jelly so nearly 
 cold as not to run much. 
 
 211. Spring Lake Gems. 
 
 Make macaroon paste by the receipt for common 
 macaroons, drop portions on baking pans and flat- 
 ten them somewhat by means of two spoons. Bake 
 the macaroons, and when slacked baked put (hem 
 into patty pans or gem pans of corresponding size 
 and press them into the shape to form a sort of little 
 baskets when cold. Ornament the edges of these 
 with small spots icing as in the preceding article, 
 bake a minute or two, and when cold fill the gems 
 with minced wine jelly of different colers mixed. 
 
 212. Icing and Ornamenting Cakes. 
 
 As these matters have been mentioned incidentally 
 in other parts of the book we will recapitulate by 
 observing that there are three well-known ways of 
 ornamenting cakes; first, by patterns in piping of 
 white icing on the cake itself not iced, as on the 
 fine yellow, glazed surface of a savoy cake, or a 
 dark chocolate cake, or a charlotte-russe ; second, 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 61 
 
 by covering tbe cakes with different colored glaze or 
 boiled icing as described in conneciioa with white 
 cakes, and, third, by frosting with the raw icing as 
 made for meringue puff? and "kisses," and orna- 
 menting with the same. 
 
 The first requisite is to make the cake itself sym 
 metricil and level by trin;ming. The cakes of a 
 skillful cake maker will rise in baking all round 
 alike so that only a mere shaving will have to be 
 taken off, but whether little or much must be cut it 
 is obvi jusly useless to try to make an object that is 
 not "square with the world" look well by merely 
 covering its deformity with a coat of icing. 
 
 Fruitcakes always require two coas of icing, and 
 all cakes th'it are to be handsomely ornamented 
 should have the same double covering. 
 
 Make the icing as directed under the head of 
 mencgue puffi and macaroons, with a pound of 
 powdered sugar to 6 whites of eggs. Spread it all 
 over the cakei with a palette knife, smooth over 
 rough places, fill up hollows, cover the hole left by 
 the cake mold in the center with a patch of writing 
 paper aid ice over that, and leave the cakes an 
 hour or two to dry. 
 
 For the pecoud coat use powdered sugar sifted 
 through a fine geive or Swiss muslin ; beat up a 
 pound with 4 whites and then add 4 more whites one 
 at a time, beating aft^ each addition till the icing 
 is firm again, except the last white which makes the 
 glossy surface on the cake and should only be beaten 
 in a little. Drop in the few drops of acetic acid 
 sometime near the end of the beating and carefully 
 add a drop or two of liquid bluing or dissolved 
 indigo, to whiten the icing, and some flavoring 
 extract. 
 
 213. To get a fine surface on the cakes as smooth 
 and free from marks as fine card board the icing 
 must b3 first as firm by beating as it can be m^de 
 and thinned with the last \\hite of egg, and another 
 if necessity till it will settle slowly to smo ^thness 
 on tlie cikes, but will not actually drip off. Be- 
 sides that the cakes must be made smoother by dex- 
 terously drawing over them the edge of a band of 
 paper. 
 
 Cut a sheet of foolscap into ribbons 2 inches wide. 
 Spread the prepared icing thickly on the the top of 
 the cake, take the paper strip by the two ends and 
 scrape (ff the surplus icing with the paper edge at 
 one even stroke, drawing towards you. Persons in 
 practice can so well manage a ribbon of paper held 
 stretched between the fingers and thumbs of both 
 hands that way that they can smooth over a cushion 
 or any concave or convex shape covered with icing 
 without leaving the mark of either beginning or 
 ending. 
 
 When the sides of the cakes have likewise been 
 OBvered and smoothed set the cakes in a drying 
 place. 
 
 214. The ornamental piping on cakes is done 
 by pressing stiff icing or meringue paste out of the 
 cut point of a paper cornet. Roll up half a sheet of 
 note paper into funnel shape and pin it, nearly fill 
 with the icing, and double over the paper so as to 
 shut it in. If you cut off the point of the cornet 
 straight the piping pressed out will be a plain round 
 cord. If a slanting side snip is taking off the icing 
 comes out like narrow tape. Cut the poiit of the 
 paper like saw teeth and a three or four sided cord 
 is formed, and there are many variations. We name 
 the paper cornet for example,but for constant use there 
 are made tubes or points of the thinnest brass plate 
 filed into the required shapes at the points, and 
 these are draped into paper cornets made large 
 enough to receive them. 
 
 The brass point that is filed into three saw teeth 
 will form a border of leaves around a cake. The 
 tooth that is uppermost is caused by a motion of the 
 hand to make the indentation marks as the icing 
 passes under and out, and a sudden breaking off 
 draws out the leaf to a point, Tliis will probably 
 sufficiently explain the matter of cake ornamenta- 
 tion for those who have never seen it done, the rest 
 must come through actual practice and example. 
 
 215. To Make Flowers for Oake Orna- 
 ments. 
 
 Flower making of icing and gum paste is a trade 
 of itself and it is generally cheaper to buy than to 
 make them. But it often happens that the ready 
 made article is not obtainable and we must do the 
 best we can. 
 
 Dip three or four sheets of writing paper in some 
 wax melted on a plate and form the flowers with the 
 cornets or brass tubes on the waxed paper. The 
 cornet that has the point cut off slantwise when 
 pressed will discharge the icing in a narrow ribbon 
 form and it is not difficult with that to form five 
 rounded leaves, the points all meeting in the center 
 and making a pansy, or a number of narrower petals 
 around a centre like a dahlia. To make the con- 
 ventional red and white roses a core, or little 
 pyramid an inch high has first to be made and 
 let dry to form them on. These coves are of 
 stiff icing forced out of a cornet and drawn up 
 high. They should stand on small pieces of waxed 
 paper. V\ hen dry and hard wrap a morsel of 
 the ribbon icing pressed out of the cornet over 
 the point of the core, like the inside leaf of a rose- 
 bud. After suddenly breaking off the ribbon com- 
 mence again at the back of the first leaf and form 
 another, covering the point of the core on the other 
 side. Let the next leaf lean outwards a little and 
 the next still more, making them all adhere to the 
 core by one edge of the ribbon and making the rose 
 leaves larger and larger till the core is covered and 
 there is room for no more. The flat four and five 
 
6ft 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 leaved flowers, such as resemble apple blossoms and 
 pansies, s'lould be painted with a few fine lines of 
 color. The roses are made red by coloring the icing 
 they are m de of. 
 
 After learning to use the cornets in making 
 borders on cakes and making flowers, to mane 
 raised ornamental work, such as lattice work, 
 fences, sides of temples, etc , to be raised up and 
 joined together on the cakes, or baskets and other 
 objects it is only necessary to know that all such 
 may be made on paper coated with white w ix, and 
 when the object is dry and hard the paper can be 
 warmed and it will slip off. 
 
 Most of the white plaster-like ornaments for cakes 
 in the confectioners' windows, such as birds, baskets, 
 lace leaves, vases and twelfth-cake figures are made 
 of gum paste, a compound that could be eaten but 
 probably never is, although it is one-half sugar. 
 
 216. Gum Paste. 
 
 1 ounce, or a little more of gum tragacanih (gum 
 dragon). 
 
 8 ounces of finest powdered sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 The gum must be soaked 12 hours or more before 
 it is used. Put it in a cup with half a cup cf water, 
 cover to keep out dust and set it on a warm shelf 
 When dissolved squeeze it through a clean towel by 
 twisting with considerable force. Scrape up the 
 gum, place it on a dish, add the sugar a little at a 
 time and work them together with a paddle or 
 wooden spoon. Add a drop of liquid blue to whiten 
 it. When the sugar is all in begin adding the starch 
 the same way. Pull out the paste as it becomes stiff, 
 and double and pall again, and when all the starch 
 has been worked in the paste is ready for use. It 
 may be pressed into shallow molds of fancy figure:} 
 made in plaster of paris, or in carved boards and 
 left in them till dry and hard. 
 
 217- Almond Gum Paste. 
 
 An eatable sort, and semi- transparent: 
 
 1 ounce of gum tragacanth — allow more for waste. 
 
 1 pound of fine powdered sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of the paste of pounded almonds. 
 
 8 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 Blanch the almonds, pound them to a fine paste 
 and pass it through a stive. Make the gum paste 
 as direcied in the preceding article and add the 
 almond paste to it after the sugar and before the 
 starch. This is suitable to make small cornucopia 
 or horns of plenty, and other objects to be orna- 
 mented with fine icing for a finish. 
 
 218. Candy Ornaments. 
 A marble slab or marble top table is needed to 
 
 form panels, windows, and the like, of clear candy, 
 on. S ightly oil the slab. Take a cornet filed with 
 icing and form the outline frame of a church window, 
 for example, and into the rim so made pour clear 
 colored candy. S^x or eight keystone shaped panels 
 made the same way may be set up and joined together 
 by the edges to form a basket, which in turn may 
 be fil'ed with macaroons. 
 
 The rim to held the candy in shape on the slab 
 may be made of dough oiled over, or of putty when 
 large sheets of candy are needed to build up large 
 ornamental pieces. 
 
 219. Plaster of Paris Molds. 
 
 Are made by mixing deuiist's plaster with water 
 to the thinness almost of cream, pouring it into a 
 shallow box and pressing the object of which an 
 impression is desired down into it. In a few min- 
 utes the plaster hardens and presently the fruit, or 
 Stamped or carved objpct can be withdrawn. Articles 
 so used should be oiled before immersing. The 
 molds should be baked at a gentle heat afterwards. 
 A whole tomato or apple meld may be made by en- 
 tirely covering the fruit in the liquid plaster and 
 when it has hardened sawing in two and removing 
 the fruit. A hole is cut into which the candy may 
 be poured when the two halves are tied together. 
 Gum paste is pressed eiiher with rolling-pin or pes- 
 tle into shallow molds of shells, leaves and doll 
 figures, which are left to dry and are afterwards 
 painted or ornamented with icing. 
 
 220. Gum Arabic Icing. 
 
 To give to cike icing the tenacity that allows 
 borders of fringe and loop work to be made on 
 cakes, with strings of fine piping hanging between 
 points several inches apart without breaking, mix 
 with every pound of fine powdered sugar from 1 to 
 2 ounces of gum arable. Powder the gum and dis- 
 solve it first in a spoonful of hot water in a cjip set 
 ou the side of the range, and add a little at a time 
 to the icing while beating it up. The paste of gum 
 tragacanth (gum dragon) as prepared for making 
 gum paste can also be used in the same manner. 
 
 The ordinary methods and means employed for 
 cake and center piece ornamention having now been 
 explained the writer will here state that he has a 
 difi'erent method of his own, which produces orna- 
 mental effects incomparably superior to the common 
 clumsy pyramid of cakes or the unmeaning and 
 futile temple of gum paste, and which have gained 
 the admiration of some of the people whose appro- 
 bation in such matters decides the question of merit. 
 The new method may be fully explained with the 
 aid of illustrations, in a few additional pages at soms 
 future time. 
 
THE AMEKICAN PASTRY COCK. 
 
 63 
 
 ^21. A Few Candies for Amateur Candy 
 Pullers. 
 
 The French confectioners recognize as many 
 as twelve stages or degrees in boiling sugar, 
 ranging from the " petit lisse " to the " caramel 
 noir " — from simple syrup to burnt sugar caramel. 
 However, we have not time to learn the degrees 
 — only just a little time to make some candy. 
 
 222. Oandy for Christmas Toys, Bto. 
 
 2 pounds of granulated sugar. 
 
 1 pint, or rather less, of water. 
 
 1 large teaspoonful of powdered gum arable. 
 
 1 level teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Dissolve the powdered gum in the water made 
 warm for the purpose. Then add to the gum-water 
 the sugar and cream of tartar and set on to boil. Do 
 not stir the syiup after it is once well mixed. It 
 should boil about 15 minutes. Then try it by drop- 
 ping a little in cold water. When the lump retains 
 its shape pretty well and can be worked between the 
 fingers like gum paste it is ready. Pour it into the 
 shallow planter of paris molds, either oiled or wetted 
 to make doll figures, or figures of animals, fishes, 
 etc., etc. 
 
 This, if cast without being stirred, makes clear 
 candy, but to have it white and opaque stir the 
 candy in the kettle giving it only from 10 to 20 
 turns with a spoon, before pouring it out. The flav- 
 oring oil may be added while stirricg. Should the 
 oandy set in the kettle add water and make it hot 
 again, with care that the candy does not immediately 
 begin to burn to caramel. 
 
 223. Rose Cream Candy. 
 
 The same ingredients and proportions as the pre- 
 ceding receipt. Boil to the same degree. Then take 
 the kettle from the fire, let it stand 5 minutes to 
 lose some of its heat, and red coloring enough to 
 make it pink, and a few drops of rose extract. Have 
 a buttered dish ready, stir the candy rapidly with a 
 spoon till it begins to change its bright appearance 
 to a dull color, that is a sign of setting, then pour it 
 immediately into the dish. 
 
 224. Lemon Cream Candy. 
 
 The same as rose cream candy. Flavor with oil 
 of lemon and use no coloring. This is as white as 
 cake icing. 
 
 225. Chocolate Cream Drops. 
 
 These are lumps of cream candy coated by being 
 dipped in melted chocolate. 
 Make white cream candy by the method described 
 
 for roFe cream candy, but flavor it with va-^illa if at 
 all. Pour it, hot int-> plaster of pari*} molds if you 
 have them, making hazelnut sizes of drops. If no 
 molds form the candy when nearly cold with the 
 fingers, then taking them on a fork dip each piece in 
 a bowl of chocolate, either common or sweet vanilla, 
 melted by being set on the side of the range, and set 
 the drops on buttered pans to cool and dry. Other 
 shapes besides drops cin of course be made in the 
 same manner. The boiled icings or glaze elsewhere 
 described when left over from icing cakes can also 
 be formed into cream drops and coated by dipping 
 in melted chocolate, and so likewise can be used the 
 common cake icing and macaroon mixtures*that may 
 be lett over from their first purpose. 
 
 226. Ooooanut Candy. 
 
 Turn to receipt number 222, tabe the same ingre- 
 dients and boil the candy to a degree a little nearer 
 the brittle stage ; take it from the fire and put in 1 
 pound of fresh grated cocoanut. Stir rapidly to 
 thoroughly mix, then pour the candy thinly in a 
 buttered dish. When using desiccated cocoanut 
 which has no moisture to reduce the candy to thin- 
 ness boil the candy only to the point named in the 
 first receipt and the same as for cream candies. 
 
 227. Almond Candy. 
 
 1 pound or a little less of almonds blanched and 
 split. 
 
 2 pounds of granulated. sugar. 
 1 pint scant of water. 
 
 1 large teaspoonful of powdered gum arable. 
 
 1 level teaspoonful of cream of tartar. 
 
 Rose extract to slightly flavor. 
 
 Dissolve the gum in the water made warm, add 
 the sugar and cream tartar and boil without stirring 
 15 or 20 minutes. When a drop in cold water sets 
 nearly hard so that it can only just be pressed flat 
 between the finger and thumb take the kettle off" the 
 fire. Drop the flavoring by spots over the surface, 
 give the candy only one or two turns with a spoon to 
 mix it in, then pour it into slightly buttered pans, in 
 thin sheets. Push the split almonds into the warm 
 candy with the fingers. Mark it before it gets cold 
 for breaking by rolling over it the edge of a thin 
 dinner plate. Sliced cocoanut can be used instead 
 of almonds. 
 
 228. Stick Candy. 
 
 Make and boil the same as in the preceding re- 
 ceipt without the almonds. Pour the candy, or a 
 portion of it, without stirring on to a marble slab. 
 Drop flavoring over it when partly cooled, cut in 
 strips and roll into round sticks. 
 
64 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 229. "White Sugar Candy to Pull. 
 
 1 pound of white sugat. 
 
 A small half pint of water. 
 
 A half teaspoonful of cream tartar. 
 
 1 ounce of butter 
 
 Oil of peppermint or lemon or other flavoring. 
 
 Boil all together, except the flavoring, about 15 
 minutes. Try by dropping a little in cold water. It 
 must set hard to be done. Do not stir it at all, but 
 pour on a buttered dish and flavor when cool enough 
 to handle. Pull it till it is quite white. 
 
 230. Peanut Candy. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of peanuts. 
 
 Make the peanuts hot in the oven. Set the sugar 
 over the fire in a kettle to melt without any water. 
 Stir it a little. When it is all melted and of the 
 color of golden syrup or light molasses mix in the 
 peanuts, pour the candy into a buttered shallow pan 
 and when nearly cold cut it into strips and blocks. 
 
 231. Hickory nut and almond candy is m<»de in 
 the above manner, and will be better with a pound 
 of the nuts instead of half a pound. In the same 
 manner with a pound of grated cocoanut a brown 
 variety may be made to match the white and red 
 cocoanut caramels (called also cocoanut cakes and 
 cocoanut gems) described at number 151. Nougat 
 is the French name of nut candies made by melting 
 the sugar without water as in the foregoing receipts. 
 
 232. Nougat Baskets— Corbeilles de 
 Noix. 
 
 The hickory nut, almond, pecan, or cocoanut 
 candies made as directed for peanut candy may be 
 pressed while cooling into basket shapes of tin or 
 crockery ware, and sticks and twists of the same 
 placed for handles and borders. Very small baskets 
 formed in fancy gem pans are used to fill with straw- 
 berries or other articles for ornamental purposes on 
 set supper tables. For this purpose the proportion 
 of nuts may ba increased to 1^ or even 2 pounds to 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 233. Almond Taffy. 
 
 Called in England Everton taflFy, after a town of 
 that name. 
 
 1 J pounds of brown sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of best fresh butter. 
 
 1 teacupful of vinegar and water — about half and 
 half. 
 
 8 to 12 ounces of almonds. 
 
 Scald and peel the almonds, split them and spread 
 them evenly on two large dishes slightly buttered. 
 Boil the other ingredients together about 15 or 20 
 minutes. Shake them together at first but do not 
 
 stir. When a drop of the candy sets quite hard nnd 
 brittle in cold water take it from the fire and pour 
 it evenly all over the almonds, only just deep 
 enough to cover them. This kind cannot be stirred 
 nor pulled, as the butter separates from the sugir 
 which then turns grainy. 
 
 234. Caramels, Plain or Maple. 
 
 Make the candy of the preceding receipt, omitting 
 the almonds. ^^ hen it has cooled on the dishes 
 mark it in squares with the edge of a dinner plate 
 rolled over it, and when cold cut the markings 
 through, making little square blocks. 
 
 For maple caramels use ma,ple sugar in the same 
 way. 
 
 235. Chocolate Caramels. 
 
 1 pound of sugar — either brown or white will do 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 Half cup of milk. • 
 
 2 ounces of grated chocolate. 
 Vanilla flavoring. 
 
 Set the milk, butter and sugar on to boil, and stir 
 in the grated chocolate and flavoring. After that 
 do not stir the mixture, again or it will go to sugar 
 in the dish. Boil about 10 minutes. "When a drop 
 in cold water f^^ets rather hard but not brittle pour 
 the candy into a dish well buttered. Mark in little 
 square blocks when set. Warm the dish or tin tray 
 a little if the candy sticks. 
 
 236. Molasses Candy to Pull. 
 
 1 large coffee cupful of molasses, 
 
 12 ounces of sugar, either brown or white. 
 
 One. third of a cupful of vinegar. 
 
 Half cupful of water. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 Put all in a kettle and boil 1 o or 20 minutes, Try 
 in cold water. It must boil ti 1 the drops set brittle 
 and fairly snap between the fingers. Then pour 
 it on buttered plates. Pul'. 
 
 237. Molasses candy if not pulled but merely 
 allowed to set on dishes is improved by having 
 about a half teasponful of soda stirred in after it 
 has been taken from the fire and before it is poured 
 out. Flavorings may be added at the same time. 
 
 238. Chocolate Candy to Pull. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of light colored molasses or syrup. 
 
 Half cupful of cream. 
 
 1 ounce of grated chocolate. 
 
 Vanilla to flavor. 
 
 Boil the cream, molasses and sugar together about 
 15 minutes, then throw in the chocolate and boil till 
 the candy sets brittle in cold water. Pour on dishes, 
 flavor when cold enough to handle, and pull. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 238 a. Chocolate Cream Drops. 
 
 ^ pound fine icing sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful powdered gum arabio, 
 
 2 tablespoons water. 
 
 1 teaspoon ful extract vanilla. 
 ^ pound common chocolate. 
 
 Cut up the cake of chccolate into a tin cup and 
 set in a shallow pan of hot water to melt by heat 
 alone without adding any water. 
 
 Dissolve the gum arable in the two tablespoons 
 of boiling (rater in a small bowl, then stir in fine 
 powdered sugar enough to make it stiff dough, ad- 
 ding the vanilla at the same time. Turn it on the 
 table, roll into a cord, cut off in balls size of hazel 
 nuts and dip these in the melted chocolate. Set on 
 a pan or dish to haiden. Makes 75 to 100. 
 
 238 b. Chocolate Creams— Best. 
 
 Make the white inside the same as for the pre- 
 ceding and make the balls up in any shape desired. 
 Instead of common chocolate merely melted dip 
 them in this chocolate icing: 
 
 1 cup sugar. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls water. 
 
 3 ounces common chocolate. 
 Grate the chocolate and set it on with the sugar 
 and water to melt gradually in a place not hot 
 enough to burn it. When it has at length become 
 boiling hot beat it to thoroughly mix, and dip in the 
 articles to be glazed while it is hot. 
 
 238 c. Chocolate Cream Dominoes. 
 
 The white cream candy same as for chocolate 
 drops. Roll it out thin and pour a layer of melted 
 chocolate upon it. Cut when cold. 
 
 238 cU Mint Drops. 
 
 1 pound pulverized sugar. 
 
 1 heaping teaspoonful powdered gum arable. 
 
 6 tablespoonfuls water. 
 
 1 tablespoonful essence peppermint. 
 Put the water on in a small saucepan or cup and 
 the gum in it and let warm up. When the gum is 
 dissolved put about a quarter of the sugar in, let 
 boil up and then add half the sugar that remains 
 putting it in gradually without stirring. When it 
 boils again take it to the table and stir in the remain- 
 ing sugar and after that the flavoring. Drop por- 
 tions the size of quarter dollars on sheets of paper. 
 They slip of the paper when cold. It may be nec- 
 essary to add another tablespoonful or two of sugar 
 to give the drops consistency enough not to run on 
 the paper, yet it is better to be too thin than too 
 mnch the other way. 
 
 238 e. Wintergrreen Drops. 
 
 The same as the preceding, but make them pink 
 with a few drops of cochineal or vegetable red color- 
 ing and use wintergreen extract for flavoring. 
 These drops have a smooth surface but are slightly 
 granulated inside. Clove drops, cinnamon drops, 
 etc., same way. 
 
 238 f. Honey Nougat. 
 
 A moist candy to be sliced, wrapped in wa> 
 tis.^ue paper. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls strained honey. 
 
 2 ounced almonds, blanched. 
 
 1 pound flour of sugar, or icing sugar. 
 Make the honey hot without boiling, stir in the 
 sugar a little at a time until it becomes too firm,thei> 
 turn out on the table and knead in more sugar and 
 also the almonds, which must be dry. When the 
 nougat is firm enough to keep its form in a square 
 bar like a brick split lengthwise, sugar the outside, 
 roll it in wax paper and keep it a day before slicing 
 it up for sale. Wrap the little cuts likewise in wax 
 paper. 
 
 238 g. Tutti-Frutti Candy. 
 
 Take the preceding receipt and add to it a tea- 
 spoonful of vanilla, two figs cut small and an equal 
 amount of raisins seeded and cut; work up into a 
 bar with all the fine, powdered sugar necessary to 
 make it firm, cut in slices and wrap in wax tissue 
 paper. 
 
 238 h. Walnut Creams. 
 
 1 pound fine icing sugar. 
 
 2 heaping teaspoonfuls powdered gum arabio. 
 5 tablespoonfuls water. 
 
 3 dozen walnut kernels. 
 
 1 teaspoonful extract vanilla. 
 Put a little sugar in the water to make a syrup, 
 and the gum in it, stir over the fire until the gum is 
 dissolved. Take it off and work in the powdered 
 sugar gradually with a wooden paddle. Add the 
 vanilla. The more it is stirred and beaten with the 
 paddle the whiter and finer the candy becomes. At 
 last turn out the lump on to the table — it is like 
 soft white dough — and roll it in one long roll, out 
 off slices, stick a half of a walnut kernel in each 
 piece and pinch (he paste up to hold it, by shaping 
 it in the hollow of the left hand. Lay the finished 
 creams on a tray ||to dry. This makes about 6 
 dozen. The sugar is not boiled, only the hot gnm 
 syrup is used. 
 
 238 i. Date Creams. 
 
 The same as the preceding kind with dates cut in 
 pieces to use instead of walnuts. 
 
66 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 238 j. Pig Creams. 
 
 Cut each fig in six or eight pieces and proceed as 
 for walnut creams. 
 
 238 k. Angrelica Creams. 
 
 Flavor the cream candy with extract of straw- 
 berry instead of vanilla. Cut green angelica or any 
 other French candied fruit of a rich color and use 
 as directed for walnut creams. 
 
 238 1. Coooanut Cream Balls. 
 
 1 pound pulverized sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful powdered gum arable, 
 6 tablespoonfuls water. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls cocoanut, minced. 
 2 tablespoonfuls currants, mi need. 
 1 teaspoonful lemon extract. 
 
 Dissolve the gum in the water hot and stir in the 
 sugar gradually, flavor, fruit and cocoanut. Work 
 the paste on the table with sugar until it is firm 
 enough, cut oflF pieces a')d roll into balls a little 
 larger than cherries. Sugar well outside and let 
 dry. The same can be made with candy colored 
 pink. The foregoing kinds are all easy to make be- 
 cause there is no boiling of sugar. 
 
 238 m. Cocoanut Cream Squares. 
 
 1 pound granulated sugar. 
 
 8 ounces cocoanut either fresh grated or desL 
 oaied. 
 
 1 small half cupful water. 
 Set the sugar and water over the fire in a smal^ 
 brighttkettle and boil about 5 minutes, or until the 
 syrup bubbles up thick and ropes from the spoon, 
 and do not stir it. Then put in the cocoanut, stir to 
 mix, and when it begins to look white pour it im- 
 mediately into a shallow tin p-^n. As soon as it is 
 set solid mark it off, and cut in little squares when 
 oold. The same kind may be colored red, and also 
 be made with chocolate. 
 
 238 n. Conmaon Boxed Macaroons. 
 
 12 ounces almonds. 
 
 8 ounces granulated sugar. 
 
 4 ounces flour. 
 
 4 eggs. Pinch of salt. 
 
 1 teaapoonful ammonia. 
 Crush the almonds without taking off the skins, 
 with a rolling-pin upon the table. Mix them and 
 the powder, sugar and flour together in a bowl. 
 Drop the eggs in the middle and mix the whole into 
 a rather soft dough. Place in lumps size of cherries 
 on baking pans very slightly greased. Bake in a 
 
 slack oven light brown. A few bitter almonds or 
 peach kernels mixed in improves them. 
 
 238 o. Fig Paste. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 
 IJ pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 Juice of half a lemon. 
 
 6 ounce of glucose. 
 Boil sugar and water together and thicken with 
 the starch same as in making a thickened pudding 
 sauce, then put in tne glucDse and lemon juice and 
 cook at the side of the range about 15 minutes. 
 Color a portion of it pink. When nearly cold mould 
 it into any form and roll in powdered sugar. 
 
 The above compound is the cheap gum drop of the 
 street vendors. 
 
 238 p. Frosted Grapes. 
 
 Take grapes of twocolor8,as red Tokays and white 
 Muscadels, and pull the bunches apart into clusters 
 of three or four grapes each. Prepare a platter with 
 the sort of pulverized sugar known as fine granul&< 
 ted, and make it warm. Whip some white of eggs 
 in a shallow bowl, dip the grapes in it, lay them on 
 the sugar and sift more sugar on top. L<iy them on 
 sieves to dry. 
 
 238 q. Grapes Glazed With Sugar. 
 
 Divide some bunches of grapes into small olasters. 
 Put into a deep saucepan 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 1 large cup of water. 
 J teaspoonful cream tartar. 
 Stir to dissolve the sugar, then set it on to boil as 
 if for candy. 
 
 When the syrup has boilea lO minutes try a drop 
 in cold waser. When it sets so that it is hard to 
 press between finger and thumb and the edges of 
 drops are hard and brittle it is ready. 
 
 Take it from the fire, dip the clusters of grapes in 
 (without ever stirring the candy) 'and lay them on 
 dishes slightly greased to dry. Should the candy 
 become set in the kettle it may have a spoonful or 
 two of water added and be made hot again. 
 
 238 r. Frosted Oranges. 
 
 Make plain white icing and use it to dip orange 
 slices in just when it has become too thick with 
 beating not to run off, and yet thin enough to settle 
 to smoothness. Have a long splinter or skewer 
 ready for each one. Stick the point of a skewer 
 into the edge of the orange section, dip into the 
 frosting, push the other end of the skewer into a 
 bowl of salt, aud let the pieces hang over the edge 
 of the bowl in a warm plaoo to dry. 
 
THE AMEBICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 57 
 
 Small Pastris 
 
 We have now to take up and conclude the list of 
 small pastries that was dropped in order that the 
 book of ices might appear in the summer season. 
 
 239. Shell Pies.orVol- au-vents of Fruit 
 
 Crusts of pies that may be baked beforehand and 
 filled with stewed fruit only as required. 
 
 Cover the pie pan with a thin rolled sheet of pufF- 
 paste, not made thinner in (he middle as for other 
 pies but left of even thickness and smooth. Cut a 
 mark half way through the paste all round the rim 
 of the plate, with the point of a knife and also score 
 across the middle. When this crust has been baked 
 the lid formed by the cutting can be lifted off in two 
 halves and replaced when the pie is filled with fruit. 
 
 240. Apple Turnovers. 
 
 Sometimes served as a "sweet entree ;" more suit- 
 able to put in place of pie ; best for luncheon, pic-nic 
 parties, and for sale ; a favorite form of pastry 
 everywhere. 
 
 Make the flaky pie paste with about 12 ounces of 
 butter to a pound of flour, roll it out to a thin sheet 
 and cut out flats nearly as large as saucers, with the 
 lid of a baking powder can or similar cutter. 
 
 Place a good spoonful of dry stewed apple in the 
 middle of each piece of paste and double over in 
 half-moon shape. Press the two edges together and 
 crimp them with the thumb and finger. When the 
 the baking pan is full of the turnovers brush them 
 over with egg and water and dredge granulated 
 sugar on top. Bake slowly till they are crisp, 
 glazed, and of a fine reddish brown color. These 
 large sizes have generally to be cut in two. They 
 contain more fruit and are better eating than when 
 made small. 
 
 241. Cannelons of Fruit. 
 
 Proceed as if for apple turnovers, but cut the 
 sheet of paste into squares. Place a spoonful of 
 any kind of firm fruit jelly lengthwise and roll up 
 the piece of paste so to cover and inclose it. The 
 word cannelon, like cane, signifies a tube with a pith 
 in it. Egg over, dredge with sugar and bake. 
 
 242. Mince Patties. 
 
 Roll out a sheet of pie paste, or puff paste if pre- 
 ferred, very thin. Cut out flats with a large biscuit 
 cutter. Put a spoonful of mincemeat, or lemon 
 mincemeat, or mock mincemeat, on one of the fla's, 
 lay another on top and pinch the edges together all 
 round. Egg them over, dredge, sugar and bake. 
 
 243. Lemon Patties. 
 
 May be made as above and filled with the lemon 
 butter, number 39, or lemon paste. 
 
 244. Saratoga Shortcake. 
 
 Drain the juice from canned strawberries into a 
 quart measure. To a quart allow 12 ounces of sugar 
 and set it at the back of the range to simmer down 
 as thick as fruit jelly. Then put in the strawberries 
 aad cook a short time longer. Roll out two thin 
 sheets of ordinary flaky pie paste and bake them 
 on two baking pans of the same size. When done 
 spread the strawberry compote on one sheet, place 
 the other sheet on top — moving it by means of two 
 palette knives slipped under — and over the top of 
 that spread a coat of thin cake icing. Dry the 
 icing in a slack oven and let it acquire a little pale 
 color. Cut in squares or diamonds when cold. 
 
 245. Almond Shortcakes. 
 
 Chop 1 pound of blanched almonds quite fine and 
 mix with them 12 ounces of sugar and the whites of 
 3 eggs, making a sort of paste. A little orange or 
 lemon zest may be added. Cover a baking pan with 
 a thin sheet of pie paste, spread the almond paste 
 evenly over it and cover with another thin sheet of 
 pie paste. Egg over the top, dredge sugar over and 
 bake in a slack oven. Cut in oblongs or squares 
 when cold. Several of the nut creams and conserves 
 may be used in the same way instead of the minced 
 almonds. With a coating of icing or glaze on top 
 the articles of this class made of pastry are found to 
 be very saleable at the bakers' shops. 
 
 246. Florentines or Florentine Mer- 
 ingues. 
 
 Cover a baking pan with a sheet of pie paste 
 rolled out thin. Spread over the paste some green 
 gqge jam, strawberiy jam, or fruit jelly, and bake 
 it in a slow oven. While it is baking whip up the 
 whites of from 6 to 12 eggs, and when firm spread it 
 over the hot preserve. On top of the white of egg sift 
 some granulated sugar and some desiccated cocoanut 
 should bo strewn over that. Bake the cake about 
 10 minutes more with the oven door open. Cut in 
 squares when cold. 
 
 247. English Cheesecakes. 
 
 12 ounces of sweet rennet curd. 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 yolks of eggs. 
 Pinch of salt. 
 
 ^ a nutmeg grated. 
 
 Lemon extract to flavor. 
 
 To prepare the curd sea number 303. Rub the 
 curd as taken from the draining cloth through a 
 flour seive and mash it smooth. Add the other in- 
 gredients and pound them all together. Line patty 
 pans with tart paste and nearly fill them with the 
 mixture. Bake about 15 minutss. The curd mix- 
 ture though seemingly too firm at first melts and 
 puffs up in the oven. Powdered sugar over the tops. 
 
«8 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 248. Puff Paste and Cheese, or Bame 
 quins. 
 
 To be served with stewed fruit. Make puff paste, 
 but not the richest — using about 12 ounces of butter 
 to a pound of flour. When it has been rolled and 
 folded twice, the shortening being all in, roll it out 
 again and spread grated cheese all over it with the 
 palette knife. Fold and roll out and spread cheese 
 on it again, and then once more. When it has been 
 folded 5 times in all roll it out thin, cut in squares 
 about 2J inches wide, double these squares over 
 something like split rolls, egg over and bake. A 
 small piece cut from the pie paste when making 
 may be enough to answer this purpose. 
 
 249. Baked Bananas for Breakfast. 
 
 Peel the fruit and cut it in halves lengthwise 
 Lay these strips in close order in a baking pan, 
 strew sugar over and some bits of fresh butter and 
 bake in a moderate oven about half an hour. The 
 fruit should be basted while baking with a f w 
 spoonfuls of butter and sugar syrup and should 
 come out glazed. Serve warm. 
 
 250. 
 
 Crisped Bananas, Nerj Orleans 
 Stsrle. 
 
 Peel and cut the bananas in two across and steep 
 the pieces in white sugar syrup flavored with cut up 
 oranges and nutmeg. When they have steeped an 
 hour or two roll each piece in dry flour, giving it a 
 a good coating, and fry in olive oil or clarified fresh 
 butter. Serve hot with the orange syrup they were 
 steeped in strained for sauce. 
 
 251. Crisped Apples. 
 
 Gore some good apples such as easily cook soft, 
 then pare them and if large out them in two. Steep 
 them several hours in sugar-and- water syrup well 
 flavored with lemon. Take the apples out, roll them 
 over and over in flour and fry them in hot lard. 
 Serve with sauce. 
 
 Crisped pears can be done the same way if soft 
 varieties of the fruit are used. 
 
 262. French Frying Batter. 
 
 Fine for pine apple and orange fritters, scollops, 
 oysters, frogs, etc. 
 
 12 ounce'3 of flour. 
 
 12 whites of eggs— J pint. 
 
 3 ounces of olive oil — 6 large tablespoonfuls 
 
 3 ounces of white wine or sherry. 
 
 Salt, orange or lemon zest if for fruit fritters. 
 
 Whip the whites firm in a bowl, pour in the oil 
 and wine, then add the flour by shaking in a little 
 at a time. Stir till well mixed, use immediate'y. 
 When this has lost its first lightness by standing in 
 
 a warm place a pinch of baking powder beaten in 
 improves it. 
 
 253. Common Frying Batter. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 3 or 4 eggs. 
 
 Little salt. 
 
 1 large spoonful of melted butter— 1 ounce. 
 
 Half as much syrup. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound or quart of flour. 
 
 Put the flour in a pan, mix half the milk and the 
 other ingredients, exc<'pt powder, together, and stir 
 up the flour with them to smooth dough. Thin it 
 with the rest of the mil.k. Beat in the powder just 
 before using. Good f r egg plant in batter, as well 
 as fruit fritters. Spoonfuls of it fried in lard also 
 make common fritters. 
 
 254. 
 
 Fritters a la Creme— Breakfast 
 Dish. 
 
 A sort of sliced custard breaded and fried, made of 
 
 1 quart of milW, 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of mixed corn starch and flour. 
 
 7 yolks of egg". 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 Flavoring. Salt. 
 
 Boil the milk with the butter and salt in it, Ww 
 the sugar in the starch and flour dry and dredge arrt 
 beat them into the boiling milk. Let it cook slowly 
 at the side of the range about 10 minutes. Stir in 
 the yolks of eggs and take it off". Flavor with lemon, 
 cinnamon, nutmeg or vanilla and let it get cold in a 
 buttered pan. Roll the slices in egg, then in cracker 
 me-il, fry in lard, serve warm with syrup. Any 
 good corn starch or farina pudding ei her baked or 
 boiled when cold can be sliced and used in the same 
 way. 
 
 265 Sponge Fritters. 
 
 A soft and spongy sort different from the common 
 made with a boiled paste. 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of flour. 
 
 1 ounce of sugar. 
 
 Boil ihe waier, sugar and butfer together, then 
 put in the flour all at once, as if making queen 
 fritters, and let the paste cook about 5 minutes. 
 Then take it from the fire and work in the following 
 and beat well: 
 
 2 ounces of flour. 
 Half cup of water. 
 
 5 f ggs Flavoring of nutmeg or vanilla. 
 1 traspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Fry spoonfuls in a saucepan of hot lard Servo 
 with wine or brandy Eauce. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY OOOK. 
 
 69 
 
 256. 
 
 Bread in Batter— Smothered. 
 Bread. 
 
 Pain Pkedu. 
 
 12 ounces of flour. 
 
 1 pint of mila. 
 
 2 ounces of butter melted. 
 2 eggs, 
 
 1 tablespoonful of golden syrup. 
 
 25 slices of bread — French rolls best. 
 
 Mix the flour and milk to make a thin batter and 
 add the other ingredients. Let the bread slices 
 steep a minute or two in it, then fry them in hot 
 lard. They should be barely masked over with bat- 
 ter, not thickly covered like fritters. May be sau. 
 teed in frying pans as well. Serve with syrup, 
 sauce, or jelly. 
 
 267. Fried Pies. 
 
 Saleable in the baker's shops. Make them the 
 same as directed for apple turnovers with dough not 
 very rich. Use milk to mix up with and the dough 
 will have a better brown color thaa with water. 
 Wet the edges with egg and water to make them 
 stick and keep out the grease. Drop the turnovers 
 into a pan of hot lard and fry them brown like 
 faitters or doughnuts. 
 
 268. German Pancakes. 
 
 This is an anticle specially belonging to the restau- 
 rant bill of fare, for its only difiference from com- 
 mon pancakes or good wheat flour batter cakes is in 
 its being baked thick ; nearly as thick as the omelet 
 pan is deep; and such a cake almost constitutes a 
 a meal by itself. They have usually to be mixed up 
 at short notice. The following is the quicKest way: 
 
 1 pint of milk to mix up with. 
 10 yolks of eggs. 
 
 4 ounces of melted butter — 3 basting spoonfulls. 
 
 2 ounces of syrup — 1 basting spoonful. 
 Little salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound or quart of flour. 
 
 1 pint more m'lk to thin it down. 
 
 Put one pint of milk in a pan and all the other 
 things with it. Stir hard, rubbing the soft dough 
 smooth and free from lumps, and then add more 
 milk gradually. Put a spoonful of hot lard in the 
 small omelet frying pan, pour in about a cofiee cup* 
 
 ROCKY MOUNTAIN CREAM. 
 
 ful of batter and bake it light brown on both sides. 
 Serve with butter and syrup. These cakes are 
 richer made with the yolks only than when the 
 whole eggs are put in. 
 
 269. 
 
 French Pancakes— "Jenny Lind 
 Pancakes " 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 14 eggs. 
 
 \ pint of milk, 
 
 I large spoonful of melted butter. 
 
 1 pint of cream to whip. 
 
 Half cup of brandy. 
 
 Little salt. 
 
 Separate the eggs and mix the yolks with the milk, 
 throw in the sugar, butter, brandy and salt, then all 
 the flour and mix up smooth. Whip the cream and 
 mix that with the batter, then whip the whites and 
 stir in. Bake thin pancakes in omelet pans. Being 
 sweet they burn easily. When done on both sides 
 spread a spoonful of currant jelly on the pancake 
 and roll it up like an omelet. Sift powdered sugar 
 on top. Or, roll up plain and serve a little jelly in 
 the dish For cheaper kinds see wheat batter cakes. 
 
 260. Petits Pates— Small Patties. 
 
 A delicate sort of small patties have the crust 
 made by frying the coating of batter that will adhere 
 to a solid copper shape that is dipped into it, by im- 
 mersion in hot lard. The shell can be shaken cfT 
 when done and the copper wiped and dipped in the 
 batter ngain for another. The batter will not adhere 
 if the copper shape is made too hot. The German 
 pancake batter or that made for waflSes will answer; 
 the best for the purpose is the French frying batter 
 made wi'h oil and wine. Fill the shells with chicken 
 or partridge or other minced meat. 
 
 The copper shape will hardly be found ready 
 made Get a copper bolt made into the outward 
 shape and size of a very small fluted tumbler, but 
 solid, and a handle a foot or two in lergth fastened 
 in the top to dip it by. 
 
 Copper Head Patty Feieb, fob Small Patties a la 
 MojJGLAs, Etc. 
 
 THE WIRE EGG BEATER. 
 
60 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 261. Apple Creamcake. 
 
 For 4 or 6 cakes for a hotel supper take: 
 
 3 pounds of flour — 12 cupfuls. 
 
 2 pounds of butter or lard --4 cupfuls. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 1 quart of ice water. 
 
 More flour to dust with. 
 
 Rub the butter into the flour dry between the 
 hands. Use salt only when lard is employed for 
 shortening. Make a hollow, pour in the water^ 
 mix up soft, and roll out on the table. 
 
 It makes the cake flaky and part in layers to 
 roll it and fold it a few times like pie paste. 
 
 Roll out as thick as biscuit at last and bake on 
 jelly cake pans. Split them open, spread apple 
 cream thickly between and powdered sugar on top. 
 
 262. Apple Cream. 
 
 4 cupfuls of grated apple. 
 
 2 cupfuls of sugar. 
 
 Butter size of an egg. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of water. 
 
 legg. 
 
 Flavoring of minced orange or lemon peel. 
 
 Either grate apples on a tin grater or finely 
 mince them; put the specified quantity into a 
 saucepan with all the other ingredients and stir 
 them over the fire about ten minutes. 
 
 263. Covered Lemon Pie— "Without Eggs. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar — 1 large cupful. 
 
 3 ounces of flour — 1 small cupful. 
 
 1 lemon 
 
 1 pint of water — 2 cupfuls. 
 
 Grate rind of the lemon into a small saucepan, 
 using a tin grater and scraping off with a fork 
 what adheres. Squeeze in the juice, scrape out 
 the pulp, chop it, put in the water and boil. Mix 
 the sugar and flour together dry and and stir them 
 into the boiling liquor. When half thickened take 
 it off and let finish in the pies. 
 
 The above makes two large pies or three small. 
 It is necessary to be particular to get the right 
 amount of flour. The mixture is pale yellow from 
 the rind and sugar. 
 
 For the crust rub half a pound of shortening 
 into a pound of flour, mix with cold water and 
 roll out three times. Put top as well as bottom 
 crust on these pies. 
 
 264. Macaroon Cake. 
 
 Often incorrectly ca'led macaroni cake. A spec- 
 ialty at some of the fine bakeries. 
 
 It is a sheet of cake with macaroon paste baked 
 on top and fruit jelly in spots. For the cake take 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 1 small cupful of milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Flour to roll out — about 2 pounds. 
 
 Warm the butter and sugar and stir them to- 
 gether to a cream, add the eggs two at a time, 
 then the milk, then the powder and most of the 
 flour. Work the dough on the table by pressing 
 out and folding it till it can be rolled out to a sheet. 
 Roll it thin as if for cookies, cut to the size of your 
 baking pans, roll up the piece of dough on the 
 rolling-pin and unroll it on the pan, previously 
 well greased. Bake very light colored and not 
 quite done, because it has to be cooked again. 
 
 265. Macaroon Paste. 
 
 12 ounces of grated cocoanut. 
 
 8 ounces of powdered sugar. 
 
 2 whites of eggs. 
 
 Little lemon extract. 
 
 Stir the above ingredients together in a bowl, ihi 
 sugar and whites first and the cocoanut added. 
 
 Place the paste, either with a teaspoon or with 
 a tube and forcing-sack, in long cords across thfl 
 sheets of cake, and then diagonally across to form 
 diamond-shaped hollows. The cord of macaroon 
 paste need be no thicker than a pencil. Then bak« 
 in a slack oven with the door open till top is brown. 
 When cold drop spots of clear fruit jelly in the 
 hollows between the ridges of macaroon paste. 
 
 266. Macaroon Tarts. 
 
 Line small patty pans with sweet tart paste, 
 half fill with macaroon paste, made either with 
 grated cocoanut or minced almonds, and bake 
 slowly in a very slack oven. The insides rise round* 
 ed and partially hollow. 
 
 267. Napoleon Cake. 
 
 Roll out two sheets of puff paste quite thin and 
 bake on baking sheets. 
 
 When done spread pastry cream (No. 285) upon 
 one sheet, place the other on top of it, and finish 
 the top with the pearl glaae. No. 2. Cut in dia- 
 monds or squares. 
 
 Another pastry cake of the same sort will be 
 found at No. 244. 
 
 268. Bismarcks. 
 
 Large doughnuts of the plain sort directed at 
 No. 561, with a teaspoonful of stewed fruit inside, 
 cut out like thin biscuits, allowed to rise and then 
 fried. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 61 
 
 A Book of Puffs, Eclairs and Cream 
 Fillings. 
 
 Sooner or later it was morally certain these 
 things would get into the papers ; the common dark- 
 ness surrounding the subject and the many inno- 
 cent deceptions practiced for that reason makes this 
 necessary. 
 
 For bills-of-fare may promise fairly enough, but 
 there is not the least certainty that the promised 
 puflf fritter will come to table puffy, and it is differ- 
 ent with it than with almost anything else in this 
 world ; we are accustomed to speak of hollow frauds 
 and hollow mockeries, but a puff fritter is only a 
 fraud when it is not hollow, and you can never 
 properly call a puff fritter your "solid," unless it is 
 a solid mockery of what it ought to be. 
 
 There are at least a dozen cooks in Sleepy Hollow 
 who can not make puff fritters hollow, and possibly 
 the most of them do not even know what they are, 
 and yet would resent any hint that they are not 
 first-class cooks. But they are not the only ones. 
 There was a cook of considerable repute, who ran for 
 several successive seasons on that splendid steamer, 
 the Aberbrothock, and he made it a point to have 
 what he called bell fritters, for one of his "sweet 
 entrees" always for the last dinner of the trip. 
 
 He went through the motions of making puff frit- 
 ters, and he made a nice spongy sort of an article, 
 but nobody could see why it was called bell fritter, 
 because it was not "hollow as a bell," and had not 
 even a space inside big enough to hang the smallest 
 kind of a clapper. But one day, by some accident, 
 he got the proportions just right, and, to his aston- 
 ishment, when he dropped the fritters into the hot 
 lard, they presently began to swell. The pieces of 
 the paste he dropped in were as big as goose eggs at 
 first, which was entirely too large in any case, but 
 he had not been used to seeing them increase much. 
 But this time they swelled and they swelled, and by 
 the time they had attained to the size of canteloup 
 melons, and the two at the bottom had hoisted all the 
 rest and were about to pitch them over, the cook 
 was thoroughly scared ; he thought Old Nick was 
 inside them, and, hastily seizing the saucepan by the 
 handle, he threw it and the whole caboodle out of 
 the cook-house window. 
 
 Puff fritters, or, rather, the want of them, was the 
 cause of a good deal of unhappiness at the Scylla 
 Cottages, for several years. 
 
 There is not a more delightful winter resort than 
 the Scylla Cottages, on the dreamy Southern coast. 
 It is noted the world over for its location upon the 
 very verge of Percival's beautiful coral grove, where 
 the purple mullet and the gold-fish rove, and is only 
 a two hours' easy boat-row from the Isle of Calms, 
 where the sea throws up some new and exquisite 
 tropical shells every day, and Morris's folks, in pen- 
 sive thought, can wander on the sea-beat shore in an 
 
 atmosphere of perpetual Spring. But there had to 
 be some eating done even in Eden, and the Scylla 
 Cottages were kept as an hotel by an estimable land- 
 lady. She prided herself upon her life-long experi- 
 ence in housekeeping. 
 
 Her regular patrons from the North, who arrived 
 punctually each year just before New Year's, had 
 discovered a spell to keep her in subjection. "What 
 society shall we have this year ? Whom do you ex- 
 pect?" — and then — "Have you found a cook yet who 
 can make those delightful soulfle fritters? Oh, they 
 make them so elegantly at Long Branch ! And you 
 did not succeed with the receipt we sent you ? Dear 
 me — and we procured it from one of the most cele- 
 brated cooks, it must have been right. Why, they 
 make them over there at the Chary bd is Hotel, per- 
 haps as elegantly as our cooks do at Long Branch, 
 and that is quite a splendid place, the Charybdis, 
 but we seem to have become attached to this spot. 
 0, if you only had a really good cook!" 
 
 Of course these intellectual people were not in 
 earnest ; nobody cares for a fritter, more or less, but 
 they knew that in this way they could infuse gall 
 and bitterness into somebody's life, and when they 
 were good natured they played the subject for sport, 
 and when they were really mean through eating too 
 much green turt-e, they rung the changes for pure 
 spite. They would even go over for a day or two to 
 the Charybdis Hotel, which is really a very fine 
 place, with splendid shell roads and two-forty nags 
 to drive on them ; magnificent rows of magnolias, 
 fig orchards and oranges ; but, being a literary 
 and artist sort of crowd, they better liked the at- 
 mosphere of the Isle of Calms, for "the nightingales 
 sing round it all the day long," and the Southern 
 sunsets from that point are most gorgeous. 
 
 As to the Charybdis Hotel fritters, they were hol- 
 low, it is true, but they were little, old hardshell 
 things, and whenever they were served the guests 
 had to be furnished with nut-crackers to break them 
 with. And yet, that cook was so proud of them that 
 he guarded the secret of making them from the 
 boys as carefully as if he had discovered a new 
 Aladdin's cave. 
 
 He needed not have been so careful. If there 
 were any use of it, no doubt but as many as fifty va- 
 rieties of hollow fritters could be made. The key to 
 the whole matter is this: 370. 
 
 If you make a very stiff, smooth, cooked paste of 
 flour, then work in gradually about half its weight of 
 raw eggs you have a fritter paste that when dropped 
 in hot lard will swell, and each piece become as hollow 
 as an egg shell. Any other substance, corn starch, 
 corn'meal, banana pulp, fruit pulp of any kind, cheese, 
 almost anything smooth will act the same way, either 
 alone or mixed with flour. We shall have more to 
 say about this when we come to souffle pudding 
 
 But these simple foundations are not particularly 
 good eating, and have to be enriched. Their tenden- 
 
68 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 cy to puff up is already at the strongest, and what- 
 ever is added must be so balanced — more eggs against 
 more butter and sugar — as not to destroy it. In 
 things like these requiring exact proportions it may 
 make a difference if the eggs used be unusually large 
 or small. There is no magic in the number ; it is 
 weight you want. Ten eggs average a pound. And 
 it may make a difference, too, if the water be al- 
 lowed to boil away after being measured. 
 
 The receipt nextToUowing gives the kind that was 
 made by the Charybdis Hotel cook, and which he was 
 so afraid lest anyone should find out. They used to 
 be called Baptist fritters, because they are never truly 
 good until they have been immersed — in syrup. In 
 campmeeting countries where they are sold on the 
 grounds by measure, the statute requires them to 
 weigh four pounds to the bushel. They can be made 
 to weigh less if made larger. The number of eggs 
 in the receipt is left optional. The Charybdis man 
 only used four because they were dear, and he had 
 to carefully round off the fritters as he dropped them, 
 because while the rich kinds will smooth themselves 
 in the frying fat, these only come out with all the 
 rough corners magnified. You will like them with 
 six eggs, and are not obliged to furnish nut .crackers, 
 even with the other proportion. 
 
 21\. 
 
 Hardshell Fritters. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 ^ pound of flour. 
 
 4, 5, or 6 eggs. 
 
 Slight seasoning of salt. 
 
 Bring the water to a boil in a bowl-shaped sauce- 
 pan of good size ; drop in the flour all at once and 
 stir to a firm, smooth paste, which will require about 
 five minutes over the fire. Then take it off and, 
 after letting it stand a few minutes, work in the eggs 
 one at a time with a large spoon. Beat the paste up 
 against the side for at least five minutes. It does 
 no harm to let the paste stand an hour or two before 
 frying, after it is made, but it must not be allowed 
 to get cold before the eggs are beaten in. Set on an 
 iron frying kettle half filled with clarified meat fat, 
 and when that is hot drop in pieces of the paste 
 about as large as guinea eggs. Only a few at a time. 
 When done, take up with a skimmer ; drain on a 
 colander or seive ; serve with syrup. Makes twen- 
 ty-five. 
 
 3TS. CORN STARCH FRITTERS. 
 
 Balloon Fritters. 
 
 The boss fritters of the tribe. Crisp and fine. No 
 limit to their swelling capacity but the size of the 
 kettle. When made of the size of footballs the ket- 
 tle has to be set in the oven to finish, because they 
 merely float on top of the fat and cannot cook 
 
 through. Weigh the starch; don't trust the paok> 
 ages for weight. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 J pound of corn starch. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 8 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 These are made same way as the "hardshells," 
 except that the starch has to be mixed separately. 
 Boil half the milk with the butter and salt in it, and 
 mix the starch smooth with the other half; pour it 
 in the saucepan and stir over the fire till it becomes 
 a firm paste well cooked. 
 
 Beat the eggs in one at a time. Have fresh sweet 
 lard moderately hot, and drop in pieces of the paste 
 as large as guinea eggs, by pushing them off the 
 point of a spoon. They need considerable time to 
 fry. Serve with sauce ; transparent, wine, brandy, 
 lemon or custard. Makes about twenty-five or 
 thirty. 
 
 CROUSTADES SOUFFLES. 
 
 3T3. 
 
 Fried Puff Borders. 
 
 For individual entrees. Suitable to serve instead 
 of Yorkshire pudding with any roasted or braised 
 meat having a brown gravy. 
 
 Make either the corn starch fritter paste or the 
 queen fritter paste next following. Put it in the 
 lady-finger sack and press out in piping smaller than 
 a little finger, on to a greased tin lid or a baking pan 
 of small size. Form the piping into oval rings the 
 size required for your individual dishes. When the 
 frying fat is ready, turn the lid upside down with 
 the rings on it and dip them in the fat. They will 
 immediately slip off and retain their shape while 
 frying, but puff considerably. Where many are 
 wanted at once, a baking pan does best to fry in, a 
 smaller sized tin pan that will go down in it being 
 used to make the shapes on. Instead of forcing sack 
 and tube, a half sheet of stiff paper, made into a 
 cornet, pinned, and the point cut off, will do. 
 Serve hot, with the meat in the centre and gravy in 
 the '"sh. 
 
 The two following are the kinds that they made so 
 elegantly at Long Branch. 
 
 Beignet is the French word for fritter. Souffle is 
 puff. Souffle is puffed. Perhaps puffed fritter 
 would be better English than puff fritter, but com- 
 mon usage seems to sanction the latter. 
 
 »T4. 
 
 Queen Fritters. Beignet Souffles. 
 
 Sometimes filled with pastry-cream and called 
 beignets au frangipane. 
 1 pint of water. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 8 ounces of flour. 
 10 eggs. 
 
THE AMEKICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 63 
 
 Boil the water and butter together in a bowl- 
 shaped saucepan large enough to beat the mixture 
 in. Put in the flour all at once and stir over the 
 fire till you have a firm, well-cooked paste. Take it 
 from the fire, let it stand to lose a few degrees of 
 heat, then work in the eggs one at a time with a 
 spoon, and beat the paste well against the side of 
 the saucepan. Fry same as the other varieties. 
 They may be glazed by sifting powdered sugar on 
 them and melting it by setting in the top of a hot 
 oven, or else with a red hot salamander or shovel, 
 held over. May be served also with raspberry vin- 
 egar, lemon juice and sugar, custard, or any pud- 
 ding sauce. The receipt makes forty to fifty. 
 
 None of these fritters require any such thing as 
 soda, or baking powder, or any substitute as is often 
 absurdly directed ; neither do the eggs require beat- 
 ing, otherwise than in the paste, as described. 
 
 These remarks apply as well to all the baked puflFs, 
 eclairs, talmouses, etc., of similar character. 
 
 When any of them fail to puff up as expected, it 
 usually requires another egg in the paste. There is 
 a certain point of softness when the paste will al- 
 most run out of a spoon, but not quite, that is the 
 best for lightness, and is soon learned by'practice.* 
 
 »75. SPANISH PUFF FRITTERS. 
 
 Beignets Souffles, a la Vanille. 
 
 All the preceding kinds are unsweetened and 
 cook light colored ; these contain sugar and require 
 care to prevent their becoming too dark in frying. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 7 ounces of butter. 
 3 ounces of sugar. 
 10 ounces of flour. 
 6 eggs, or 7 if small. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls extract vanilla. 
 
 Boil the water with the butter and sugar in it, put 
 in the flour and make the fritter paste same way as 
 directed for the preceding kinds, adding the va- 
 nilla with the last eggs. 
 
 Fry in good lard slowly. They may be five min- 
 utes before they begin to expand. Take them out 
 with a skimmer ; drain on a colander ; dredge pow- 
 dered sugar over and serve. Enough for average 
 orders of fifty persons. 
 
 Fritters glaces au rhum, or otheiwise, are fritters 
 glazed, either with a thick sugar syrup flavored with 
 rum (a rich pudding sauce) poured over them, or 
 else powdered sugar melted on the fritters in the 
 manner before described. 
 
 STO, Ring Puff's With Jelly. 
 
 For luncheon or supper. 
 
 Make a puff fritter paste, the Spanish puff prefer- 
 able, but the others will answer. Put a tube in the 
 forcing sack not much larger at the point than a pen- 
 
 cil, and half fill the sack with the paste. Squeeae 
 out piping and form rings of it the size of the top of 
 a coffee cup, on tin lids previously greased over with 
 lard. When the frying fat is hot, dip the lids in it 
 upside down and the rings will slip off. Fry them 
 light brown; drain on a colander; split them all 
 round with a sharp penknife ; spread jelly, or fruit 
 jam, or lemon butter between the halves ; place them 
 together again, dredge powdered sugar over and pile 
 on a stand covered with a napkin. 
 
 STT. Ring Puffs With Peaches. 
 
 Make the rings asin the preceeding case. Instead 
 of splitting and spreading, place them in dishes or 
 saucers and half a peach on top of each, the syrup 
 to be poured under. The peach halves, if the entre- 
 met is to be served hot for dinner, should be baked 
 for the purpose, with sugar and butter, or else 
 stewed in syrup. If to be served cold, preserved or 
 brandy peaches can be used. 
 
 378. 
 
 Bell Fritters. 
 
 This is the way they were made by the cook of 
 that splendid steamer, the Aberbrothock, when he 
 made them right and threw them out of the cook- 
 house window in alarm because they swelled. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 3 ounces of butter, or lard. 
 
 8 ounces of flour. 
 
 5 eggs, or 6 if small. 
 
 Make as directed for queen fritters. Good lard is 
 preferable to bad butter. 
 
 What do you do with the stale pieces of bread that 
 are left over so abundantly, wherever there is an 
 abundant table set and people pick and choose so ? 
 Good bread; not therough, unshapely biscuits spoiled 
 with inferior yellow baking bowder, top crust blis- 
 tered and bottom crust soiled, so brittle and coarse 
 that they crumble in the fingers, go down like saw- 
 dust and leave a taste of soda and salt butter in the 
 mouth, but nice slices of white bread, good rolls, 
 flaky biscuits, fine grained muffins. There are about 
 three-score-and-ten needs and uses for such as these 
 in good cooking. In half of them nothing but bread 
 will do, in the other half bread makes a good substi- 
 tote for something else, as in this receipt. 
 
 StO. 
 
 Bread Puff Fritters. 
 
 1 pint of water or milk, 
 
 f pound of white bread crumbs. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 5 eggs. 
 
 Shave all crust off the bread and crumble it fine. 
 Boil the water, put the bread crumbs in and sti? 
 and mash to a smooth paste over the fire — five min- 
 utes — then add the butter, and when it is worked iu 
 
64 
 
 THE amehican pastry cook. 
 
 take the paste from the fire and beat in the eggs one 
 at a time as for other fritters. 
 
 This makes a good fritter, but less certain to be 
 hollow than others; depends on the fineness of the 
 bread. 
 
 The next, made by a different method, is one of 
 the most delicate preparations of the potato. But 
 there are potatoes and potatoes. It would be labor 
 thrown away to use any but the best flavored and 
 mealiest for such a purpose. 
 
 880. 
 
 FRENCH POTATO FRITTERS. 
 
 Beignets de Pomme de terre. 
 
 Potato puree and eggs beaten light and fried. Hors 
 d' auvre, (side dish) or vegetable garnish for en- 
 tress, or sweet entremet with brandy sauce. 
 1 J pounds of pared raw potatoes. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls of cream. 
 
 Same of white wine or sherry. 
 
 6 whole eggs and 4 yolks. 
 
 Juice of half a lemon. Nutmeg. 
 
 Boil the potatoes well done in salted water, drain 
 dry and mash them thoroughly — better through a 
 colander. While still warm, mix in all the other 
 ingredients except the flour. Then set the pan or 
 bowl in ice- water and beat the mixture 15 minutes 
 or more, like making sponge cake. When light stir 
 in the flour. Fry small spoonfuls, egg-shaped, in 
 hot lard. Drain on paper. Serve hot. Makes about 
 60. Not hollow, but very light. 
 
 381. Transparent Fritters. 
 
 Crisp. White. Good to use up whites of eggs 
 left out of muffins, custards, etc., wherein they do no 
 good. Serve with red wine sauce, or lemon juice 
 and sugar. 
 
 ^ pint of milk, or water. 
 
 3 ounces of butter, or lard. 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 J pound of white of eggs (9 whites). 
 
 Make as directed for other starch fritters. Fry 
 slowly. If the batter is beaten too much after the 
 whites are all in, the fritters are liable to explode 
 when near done. (They never explode on the table 
 — no danger.) 
 
 We now come to cheese puffs and creams. In the 
 great majority of instances when anything made 
 with cheese appears in a bill of fare, the kind named 
 is Parmesan. Besides this, the cook is directed to 
 use various other foreign cheeses, according to what 
 the purpose may be. In Italian cookery, one writer 
 observes, "several varieties of cheese are much em- 
 ployed : such as the cheese of Switzerland and Sa- 
 
 voy, under different names; and Parmesan (named 
 from Parma), though it is made in all the north of 
 Italy, and particularly in Lombardy. Gruyere 
 cheese is, however, most used throughout Europe; 
 Parmesan is twice or thrice the price out of Italy. 
 In Italy, a plateful of grated cheese is mostly served 
 with the soup, when each guest takes what he likes 
 and mixes it on his own plate." 
 
 Another writer says: "My friends had two sur- 
 prises of which I myself had not thought — Parmesan 
 served with the soupe, and a glass of dry madeira 
 after. These were two novelties lately imported 
 (into France) by Prince Talleyrand, the first of our 
 diplomatists, to whom we owe so many wise and 
 witty sayings, etc." 
 
 Every well regulated hotel storeroom of course has 
 all the different varieties of cheese on shelf, properly 
 labeled, so that the cook can have all the world be- 
 fore him where to choose. But those who live where 
 it is found difficult to obtain anything but American 
 cheese, if they have not already read it, will be grat- 
 ified and interested in reading the following, fr m 
 "Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving." 
 
 "Among the best cheeses of England are the Stil- 
 ton and Cheshire ; of France, are those of Neufchatel 
 Brie and Roquefort. The fromage de Roquejort is, 
 perhaps, one of the most popular of all cheeses. The 
 Gruyere cheese of Switzerland is also a well known 
 cheese. It is made from new milk, and flavored 
 with a powdered herb. The Roquefort cheese is 
 made of a mixture of sheep's and goat's milk. The 
 Parmesan (an Italian cheese) is made of skimmed 
 milk. It is a high-flavored and hard cheese, and is 
 not rent to market until it is six months old, and is 
 often kept three or four years. It is extensively 
 used, grated, for cooking. 
 
 Our American cheeses, since .ne introduction of 
 the factory system, are exported in immense quanti- 
 ties to England, where they are much ought for, and 
 considered by epicures as great luxuries. This is 
 generally astonishing to Americans abroad, who, at 
 home, often consider it only in rule to offer guests 
 cheese of foreign manufacture. 
 
 * ^ * * * * 
 
 Perhaps the cheapest of the foreign famous cheeses 
 is the Neufchatel. It comes in little rolls about an 
 inch thick and three inches long, is enveloped in tin- 
 foil and costs about twenty cents a roll. 
 
 The tariff may be saved by purchasing the Neufchatel 
 manufactured in New Jersey and Westchester County, 
 New York. As for that, the Stilton made in Cayuga 
 county can hardly be dected from the Leicestershire 
 manufacture itself; and in fact, nearly all the famous 
 cheeses are very perfectly imitated in America, so that 
 those who choose may indulge in foreign names and 
 encourage home manufacture at the same time." 
 
 The moral to be drawn from the preceding *r- 
 tract is that for cooking purposes at least, American 
 cheese will do very well, even for dishes au Parme- 
 I tan, or d la Parmesane. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 08 
 
 Parmesan Fritters with Apples. 
 
 383. 
 
 J pint of water. 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 4 ounces of cheese. 
 
 5 or 6 eggs. 
 
 Grate the cheese, if dry enough, or else mince it 
 extremely small. 
 
 Make the puff fritter paste by boiling the water 
 with the butter in it and then stirring in the flour. 
 
 When well cooked take the saucepan from the fire, 
 add the grated cheese an d beat it into the hot paste 
 with a pestle. Then work in the eggs one at a time 
 and beat the mixture for several minutes. Fry 
 small fritters. They swell very much and are not 
 good if dark colored. When done, drain them — on 
 paper if necessary — open each one with a twist of a 
 fork, and put in a teaspoonful of dry-stewed apple 
 seasoned with fresh butter. When the cheese is of 
 a very dry sort, a little more butter is needed to 
 make the paste. 
 
 The receipt preceding and the next to follow have 
 been rehabilitated from some of those delightfully 
 vague instructions for making Italian or other dish- 
 es, which say, "take a glass of water and a handful 
 of cheese and a pounded anchovy, and some flour, 
 and eggs enough to make a paste not too thin, etc ' ' 
 The anchovy is for flavor and can be added or not, 
 at pleasure. 
 
 383. 
 
 Ramequin Puflfe. 
 
 Make the cheese fritter paste of the foregoing re- 
 ceipt. 
 
 Cut some manilla paper in broad ribbands, and 
 brush them over with a little melted lard. 
 
 Form the paste in ring shapes on these papers, by 
 pressing it out of a paper cornet, or a sack. 
 
 These are not slender rings, but more like flat 
 cakes with a depression in the centre. 
 
 Draw the bands of paper through the hot frying- 
 fat and the puffs will slip off. They should be fried 
 of a light color. Drain, then split them as you 
 would muffins, and spread between some creamed 
 cheese or fondue. Dredge a little gra ed cheese on 
 top, and set the pan containing them in the top of 
 the oven for two minutes before serving. Care is re- 
 quired in forming the shapes not to have them too 
 large, as they expand considerably. 
 
 384. 
 
 About Clarifying Prying Pat. 
 
 A number of articles have now been described in 
 this column that have to be fried by being immersed 
 in hot fat, enough at least to cover them. As it may 
 be a long time before th^v will have to be mentioned 
 
 again, a few explanations here come in place. 
 
 When the clear fat — possibly several inches deep 
 — is skimmed off the top of the soup stock boiler and 
 strained into a frying kettle, it looks clear enough 
 and ready for frying. But in fact it contains a good 
 deal of water and gelatinous matter that must be got 
 rid of. 
 
 When it is set on the range it soon boils rapidly, 
 and inexperienced persons are apt to think that it 
 is then ready to receive the articles to be fried, but 
 if they are dropped in at that stage they only boil all 
 away to a mush, and perhaps the grease foams over 
 on to the range. If, however, the grease is allowed 
 to continue boiling — it may take an hour — the water 
 will all be expelled and the gelatinous matters, or 
 gravy, will all be found coated over the bottom of 
 the kettle. The grease is then motionless and will 
 soon begin to smoke — it is hotter than boiling water. 
 If now poured off into a clean saucepan, it is clari- 
 fied and ready for frying in, and may be set away to 
 get cold and used whenever wanted without any 
 more preparation. 
 
 If, instead of pouring it into a clean saucepan, the 
 articles to be fried are put into the grease in the same 
 kettle it was boiled down in, they will dissolve more 
 or less of the sediment on the bottom, the grease 
 will become turgid and foam over and take fire, and 
 instead of the articles browning they are apt to stick 
 on the bottom and the whole contents acquire a 
 burned and smoky taste. Hence the necessity of 
 clarifying all fat that is saved from the cooking of 
 meats. 
 
 When meats are baking in the oven, all the 
 fat that may be taken out as long as there is water 
 in the pan is in precisely the same condition as that 
 taken from the soup stock, and contains meat gravy. 
 It is then what is called drippings. 
 
 But when the meat has become browned and the 
 gravy in the pan dried and browned too, then all the 
 fat that remains is clarified and will set like tallow 
 when cold ; it can be poured from the pan into 
 a saucepan direct, and used to fry with immedi- 
 ately. 
 
 When kidney fat, or other fat pieces of meat are 
 rendered down in a meat pan, they should be treated 
 just like the baked meats; cooked with a little water 
 in the pan at first, but allowed to dry out and let the 
 glaze be fixed to the bottom before the clear grease is 
 poured off. 
 
 Articles properly made and properly fried and 
 drained afler frying have so little grease left about 
 them that it is scarcely appreciated; but what they 
 are liable to have about them are sickly flavors of the 
 nature of vegetable oils that the frying fat may have 
 gathered from other vessels. The bay leaf, onion, 
 celery and herbs; the cloves, mace, lemon, or what- 
 ever is put in the soup are fine whilst they are liv- 
 ing flavors, but their essential oils carried over in 
 the fat to the frying saucepan are not so pleasant. 
 Therefore the clear fat should be saved before any 
 
66 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 of these seasonings are put in the stock pot. An or- 
 ange or pineapple fritter may have had the fruit 
 soaked in good wine and the batter made of the 
 lightest kind, but if fried in fat from stuffed pork or 
 wild fowl, the first thing the tongue will be conscious 
 of will be the ghosts of departed onions. The table 
 may be furnished expensively, and the bill-of-fore be 
 full of French terms, yet if these little matters be 
 thought too trivial there will be an indescribable 
 something that will detract from the pleasure of eat- 
 ing at your table. If fat containing oil of onions 
 must be used, keep it for frying onions in. Beef 
 fat is well nigh tasteless, and is good alone; see that 
 nothing goes into the rendering pan that will in- 
 jure it. 
 
 Frangipanni-Prangipane. 
 
 A strange trait it is, but civilized humanity al- 
 ways seems to be ashamed of its subjection to the 
 necessity of eating, and is always ready either to 
 quarrel with its bread and butter or laugh at it. 
 So strong is this tendency, that only a very few au- 
 thors of the utmost independence and decided power 
 have cared to treat of matters of food and drink in a 
 serious manner. The nation that is credited with 
 being the most highly civilized in Europe, finding 
 that all its civtlization did not redeem it from the 
 necessity of eating, made the best of the difficulty, 
 and elevated the entire matter to a point of re- 
 spect, which the other peoples acknowledge whether 
 they understand or not. 
 
 But, "Oh, if we could only live without eating!" 
 is the common aspiration still. Some fanciful story 
 tellers have imagined people living on air alone; 
 quaffing the rich south wind as real people quaff 
 wine. Others have come down a little lower, from 
 airy nothings to trifles light as air. 
 
 "That suits me exactly," says one of Disraeli's 
 ladies, "I am a great foe to dinners, and, indeed, to 
 all meals. I think when the good time comes we 
 shall give up eating in public, except, perhaps, fruit 
 on a green bank, with music." 
 
 "It is a pity, my lord," says one of Bui wer's char- 
 acters, "that we do not serve perfumes at dessert; it 
 is their appropriate place. In confectionery (delicate 
 invention of the Sylphs,) we imitate the forms of the 
 rose an5 the jessamine; why not their odors, too?" 
 
 "It is an exquisite idea of yours," said he, "and 
 the next time you dine here we will have per- 
 fumes." 
 
 It seems likely enough that this very conceit grew 
 out of the name, frangipane, by which the cream or 
 custard used for filling puffs is known to French 
 cooks. Thackeray, who names a cook Champig- 
 non, at the same time calls a milliner Mademoiselle 
 Frangipanni. 
 
 Frangipanni was as common a perfume, it ap- 
 pears, as eau-de-cologne is now. Savarin, examin- 
 
 ing the causes of obesity, finds Lis fat neighborii 
 showing a partiality for such tilings as tourte de 
 frangipane, which in English is cream pie. Wor- 
 cester ^finds that both these are one word, the 
 Italian being frangipanna, frangipane the French, 
 but that it means two things — a perfume of jasmine, 
 and milk boiled down thick and mixed with al- 
 monds. So, as Tommy Traddles would say, "There 
 you are !" The people had a perfume which they 
 admired, but it would not satisfy hunger; they made 
 an almond cream and thought it so good they named 
 it perfume. An obvious compromise between ethe- 
 rial longings and material needs. And thus it is the 
 art of cookery meets every requirement, even 
 of the delicate people who really eat nothing at 
 all. 
 
 Whatever it may have been, the frangipane of the 
 present time is not made with condensed milk, and 
 the nearest approach to the old definition is a receipt 
 that directs almond macaroons to be broken up in 
 it. The compounds carrying the name are all made 
 with flour, and the flavors vary. 
 
 PASTRY CREAM OR CUSTARD. 
 
 385. 
 
 Prangipan 
 
 The kind commonly used by bakers for filling 
 cream puffs, etc. 
 1 quart of milk. 
 8 ounces of white sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 5 eggs. Pinch of salt. 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of extract of lemon. 
 
 Set the milk and butter on to boil. Mix the flour 
 and sugar together while dry, very thoroughly, then 
 sprinkle them in the milk rapidly and keep beating 
 till it is well up to the boiling point again. It is 
 worthless if in the least scorched. Move it to the 
 side of the range and stir in the five eggs, cover and 
 let simmer slowly for twenty minutes, or till well 
 cooked. Flavor after cooling. 
 
 Extra Touches. — Three ounces of fresh butter 
 lightly browned in a frying pan over the fire and 
 then added to the pastry-cream, gives it richness, 
 and flavor of nuts. Almond macaroons may be 
 broken into the milk when first put on to boil. 
 
 Thick whipped cream can be lightly stirred into 
 the pastry-cream when the articles to be filled are 
 for immediate use. 
 
 When the pastry-cream is for cream pie, or tourte 
 de frangipane; or for fauchonettes, which are small, 
 deep tarts nearly filled with it and meringued on 
 top like lemon pies; or for cream cake, the difference 
 required is only to use 8 yolks instead of the 5 
 whole eggs, and make the cream as usual. The juice 
 of a lemon may be added for pies. The whites of 
 the eggs make the meringue. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 67 
 
 286. Chocolate Pastry Cream. 
 
 For feuchonettes au choclat, iclairs au chocolat, 
 etc. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 2 ounces of grated chocolate. 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the milk, butter and grated chocolate to 
 gether. Mix sugar and flour drj and beat them into 
 the boiling milk. Stir awhile to prevent burning, 
 then set the saucepan on the side of the range and 
 stir in the yolks, after beating them with a spoonful 
 of milk. Let cook till well thickened. Flavor with 
 the vanilla when cold. 
 
 S87, Coffee Pastry Cream 
 
 1 pint of clear, ver strong coflee. 
 1 pint of cream. 
 
 Use these instead of the quart of milk, and make 
 according to directions for common pastry-cream. 
 
 On board ships and steamers where milk for cook- 
 ing purposes can seldom be obtained, all the pastry- 
 creams are made nearly as good with water. An 
 ounce of butter extra is then needed. 
 
 The reader perceives that as cream fillings a vari- 
 ety of dissimilar compounds here come together. 
 They are alike, however, in being each one adapted 
 for several uses, for spreadin2 on toast, cakes, filling 
 tarts, tartlets, pies, etc., besides filling cream puffs. 
 In another point they are all alike, and one being 
 learned the rest become the easier for it. They all 
 have to be stirred over the fire till thickened — that 
 one touch of cookery makes the whole lot kin. Five 
 different English cook books contain directions for 
 making the simple base of several conserves, to follow 
 here presently, that is what is called there transpar- 
 ent pudding, and on this side is pretty well known 
 as transparent pie. Only two of the five give the 
 essential point of cooking the mixture over the fire 
 before the pies are filled with it, and one of these 
 copies verbatim from the older one, except the 
 change of a single word. One says stir till like 
 buttered eggs, the other says till like batter. The 
 consequence of it is that the mixture put into the 
 pies raw will rise and look fine, but when done will 
 go down and become like wax; whereas if previously 
 cooked it remains lio;ht and delicious. 
 
 S88. Transparent Pie Mixtm-e. 
 
 Used also for puffs and tarts, variously flavored. 
 
 \ pound of sugar. 
 
 ^ pound of butter. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 Nutmeg or vanilla flavor and brandy, if desired. 
 
 Melt and stir the butter and sugar together in a 
 sauce pan; add the eggs, beaten a little first, and 
 stir the mixture over the fire till it is half-cooked, 
 ropes from the spoon, and looks like soft butter. If 
 for puffs or tartlets it may be well cooked and fla- 
 vored with orange or lemon. For pies, dredge a 
 little powdered sugar over the top of the mixture 
 when in the crusts — helps to prevent scorching on 
 top. Slow oven. Makes 4 or 5 pies. 
 
 The French name for tarts or little pies, made 
 with the preceding mixture and several variations of 
 it, is dariolts. Young Quentin Durward, of Scott's 
 novel, on his first arrival in France, is set down to a 
 feast of a choice order, and is served with durioles in 
 the second course. One English definition of dari- 
 ole is a custard tart. But the nearest the English 
 cooks could come to fitting it with a term was to call 
 it a cheesecake. Neither term is appropriate. The 
 following, one of the dariole fillings, is called in one 
 place "cheesecake to keep several years." Although 
 containing eggs, the keeping qualities of these prepa 
 rations are such as to entitle them to be called con- 
 serves. 
 
 389. 
 
 Lemon Conserve. 
 
 Also called dariole filling, lemon custard, lemon 
 cheesecake, lemon paste, lemon honey, etc. For 
 filling small puffs, tartlets, pies, and spreading on 
 larger cakes. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 5 or 6 lemons. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 yolks and 1 Whole egg. 
 
 Put the butter and sugar in a bright saucepan, 
 grate the yellow rinds of the lemons into i^ with a 
 tin grater, scraping off with a fork what adheres; 
 sqeeze in the juice without the seeds, then stir over 
 the fire till the mixture boils. Beat the yolks and 
 mix them in and stir about ten minutes more, or 
 till cooked and thick like melted cheese. 
 
 Lemons that are green, tliick-skinned and acrid 
 are not fit for this purpose. 
 
 It is a rule useful to remember that these mixtures 
 seldom if ever scorch when they have butter in 
 them; they may be left to simmer at the side when 
 time presses. 
 
 200, Conserve aux Amandes. 
 
 For small puffs, almond cream cake, tartlets, etc. 
 
 8 ounces of almonds. 
 
 \ pint of water. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 yolks of eggs. 
 
 6 bitter almonds and a little rose extract, if they 
 are convenient. 
 
 Scald the almonds and take off the skins, then 
 chop them fine. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTKY COOK. 
 
 Boil the sugar and water to a thick syrup; stir 
 n the minced almonds and the butter and boil five 
 minutes. 
 
 Then stir in the yolks of eggs and take the mix- 
 tureoflFthe fire when they thicken. Add the rose 
 flavor when cold. 
 
 1391. 
 
 Coooanut Conserve. 
 
 8 ounces of grated cocoanut. 
 
 ^ cupful of milk, or water. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 Whites of four eggs. 
 
 Thin pared yellow rind of ^ an orange. 
 
 Mince the orange peel and boil it with the sugar 
 and milk. Stir in the cocoanut, the butter, and 
 the beaten whites last. Take the mixture off" when 
 it thickens. 
 
 The two preceding kinds give a yellow and a 
 white nut cream or conserve, very useful and orna- 
 mental for spreading between layers of snow cake. 
 Pistachios and hickory nuts can be substituted for 
 either of the other kinds. Can be thinned with 
 milk if too firm when cold. 
 
 It is seldom necessary to keep any such compounds 
 as these in hotel work for any length of time. The 
 quantities prescribed are for the usual daily require- 
 ments of 50 persons. It should be remembered, 
 however, that sunlight turns butter rancid, and 
 anything containing it should be kept dark in cov- 
 ered jars. 
 
 Florida Jam. 
 
 "Florida shall be the name of this new land," 
 cried Ponce de Leon, "for, in truth, it is a flowery 
 land. What sayest thou Padre Rotundo?" 
 
 *'As thou sayest I say. Florid is the red-bird 
 flitting through the green bushes; florid the flamingo 
 in the swamp; florid the sea weeds were that floated 
 about our vessel as we passed yon enchanted islands 
 set in a luminous sea." 
 
 "Beautiful isles of the sea," murmured Gonzalez. 
 
 "Beautiful gems of the ocean," sighed Leonardo. 
 
 "Surely," went on Ponce de Leon, "they are the 
 veritable isles of the blessed that we thought were 
 but fables of the ancients, and this is the garden of 
 the Ilesperides." 
 
 "No gold, no gold," groaned Sebastiano, throwing 
 down his prospecting pan and pick, "I have delved 
 among the sands of yonder shore and found naught. 
 Padre Rotundo, thou sayest these shell mounds show 
 that this land was once the ocean's bed, show us, 
 then, where lie the wrecks of ancient ships gold- 
 laden; or, Padre, show us the streams that flow 
 down from El Dorado." 
 
 "And if," said Ponce de Leon, pursuing his own 
 train of thought, "this be the garden of the Hesperi- 
 des, somewhere in its glades exists the fountain of 
 
 perpetual youth. That will I find. Perish thy 
 thoughts of gold." 
 
 "I am with thee in that search, Don Leon I" 
 exclaimed Leonardo. "Oh, would I were a boy 
 again!" 
 
 "Listen to the mocking-bird," said Ponce de 
 Leon. 
 
 "Aye," answered Leonardo, "and the woodpecker 
 tapping the old hollow tree." 
 
 "And the voice of the turtle is heard in the land," 
 chimed in the oily voice of Padre Rotundo. 
 
 "Land of love and sunny skies, bright with joy 
 and beauty," exclaimed Leonardo. 
 
 "Sebastiano, what ails thee," asked Gonialez, 
 "why blinkest thou at. the sky?' 
 
 "Oh, 'tis nothing; but a jay bird sat majestic on 
 yon hickory limb, and when he winked at me should 
 I not wink at him ? Perhaps he knows where there 
 is gold." 
 
 "Gold I believe in when I see it, but in omens 1 
 do not believe." 
 
 "I do. I had a dream the other night when every- 
 thing was still — " 
 
 "A fig for thy dreams." 
 
 "By our good Saint Augustine," said Padre Ro- 
 tundo, "as thou saidst figs, we will have some figs. 
 Bring me the figs of Smyrna that remain in the 
 boat, and we will plant the seeds. Haply in this 
 genial land the fig will prosper, and many that come 
 after us shall bless us. Yea, my son, there shall bfe 
 in this land fountains and streams of perpetual 
 youth. They shall flow from the North and West 
 and East, arid be of many generations. In magnolia 
 parks and orange groves and by the river St. John's, 
 eyes shall look love to eyes that speak again; and 
 there shall be many a sly flirtation by the light of 
 the chandelier in the halls of And 
 
 there shall be gold, Sebastiano, but not for thee. The 
 hotel-keepers of the future shall see it. Gold and 
 letters of credit from the frozen North. Golden or- 
 anges, too, that shall make this land wear a likeness 
 to the gardens of thy native Seville." 
 
 "Padre," said Ponce de Leon, drawing near and 
 speaking in a low tone, "dost remember the convent 
 garden near Seville, into which we stole, thou and I, 
 when we were small boys, to see thy sister once 
 more ? And dost remember the spicy breeze that 
 was wafted to us from the refectory, where the sis- 
 ters were preparing confections and conserves of or- 
 ange flowers? And dost remember how they caught 
 us and made us work till our arms did ache, at 
 pounding orange rinds in a mortar; whilst thou 
 didst nearly roast at stirring orange jam?" 
 
 "Tut, tut," returned the Padre, "I choose not to 
 remember such undignified incidents. Yet if thou 
 wilt, thou mayst compare the delicate fancy of those 
 good women for confections made of flowers, with 
 the cruel extravagance of the pagan Romans who 
 desolated the groves, and made costly dishts of the 
 
THE AlttERIOAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 69 
 
 tongues of thousands of singing birds, and thou 
 wilt concede the finer grace of the later day." 
 
 But Ponce de Leon had not been listening. His 
 thoughts were far away, and he sighed, "Her bright 
 smile haunts me still.' 
 
 8»3. Florida Conserve of Oranges. 
 
 For darioles, mountain cakes, eclairs auz confitures^ 
 tartelettcs a V orange, etc. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 4 large oranges. 
 
 2 or 3 lemons — juice only. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 yolks and 2 whole eggs. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of extract of rose 
 
 Put the sugar and butter in a bright saucepan; 
 grate in the yellow rinds of the oranges and add an 
 ounce of candied orange flowers, if you have them. 
 Squeeze in the juice of the oranges and lemons with- 
 out the seeds, and stir the syrup thus made over the 
 fire till it boils. Beat the eggs and yolks a little, add 
 them and let cook till the mixture becomes thick — 
 about ten minutes. Add the rose extract after 
 cooling. 
 
 An ancient, cheap, but laborious way of making a 
 conserve of oranges or lemons, is to boil the rinds in 
 two or three waters for several hours, to extract the 
 bitter taste and make them tender; then pound them 
 to a paste in a mortar and boil the paste with either 
 honey or syrup. 
 
 A large proportion of the area of the Bahama Is- 
 lands is devoted to the cultivation of pineapples. The 
 appearance of the broad expanse of young fruit with 
 its clusters of delicately-tinted, but sharp and ser- 
 rated leaves, rising only a short distance from the 
 ground and covering the undulating fields, produces 
 a very remarkable effect. As many as 1,500,000 of 
 the fruit have been collected from a single acre 
 
 393. Corn Starch Pastry Cream. 
 
 1 pint of water or milk. 
 6 ounces of white sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Flavoring. 
 
 Boil the water or milk with the sugar in it. Mix 
 the starch with a little water extra; pour it in the 
 saucepan and stir up. Then before it has boiled 
 again, add the eggs and butter and stir till the mix- 
 ture becomes quite thick — perhaps ten minutes. 
 Flavor when cool. 
 
 Variation. — A small ripe lemon cut in shreds — 
 the seeds thrown away — boiled with the sugar and 
 water, makes or the preceding a lemon cream pie 
 
 filling. It should be only half-cooked over the fire, 
 and allowed to set in the pies in the oven. 
 
 S94. 
 
 Creamed Cheese. 
 
 For filling cheese puff fritters — betgnets auparme- 
 san— for ramequin puffs, canapes au/romage, etc. 
 
 8 ounces of cheese. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 1^ pint of milk. 
 
 4 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Little cayenne pepper and salt. 
 
 Grate or mince the cheese very fine; put it and al 
 the other ingredients in a saucepan and stir over the 
 fire till it becomes thick and just begins to boil; but 
 it must not quite boil, as that would spoil it. 
 
 As the good quality of this preparation is depend- 
 ent upon its being made only just before it is to be 
 served, and cheese grating is one of the tedious 
 operations, it will be found, for hotel use, more ex- 
 peditious to pound the cheese and butter together, 
 slightly warmed, then pour in milk and yolks and 
 stir till thickened. Can be used as a sauce with 
 Italian fritters, made a triflle thinner. 
 
 S05. 
 
 Cheese Fondu, or Melted Cheese. 
 
 For Welch rare-bits, canapes au fromage, etc. 
 
 See preceding receipt for creamed cheese, and 
 substitute ale for the milk. Either of the ways an- 
 swers for all the purposes of the other. 
 
 For canapes, spread the mixture on toast, and put 
 in the oven three minutes before serving. 
 
 The preceding form of melted cheese is also one 
 form of the fondue, which does not come under the 
 present category. It may be noted in passing, how- 
 ever, that the fondue of which Savarin thought so 
 much, was more like a dish of scrambled eggs with 
 cheese, having no ale or other liquid added. He 
 says it is of Swiss origin, and that the cayenne is not 
 to be forgotten, that being a characteristic of the 
 dish. He made his fondues, when entertaining a 
 few friends, in a chafing dish over a spirit lamp. 
 His rule would be singularly inappropriate in an ho- 
 tel entertaining five hundred people. He says al- 
 low one egg for each guest, one-third as much 
 cheese and half that of butter, etc. But it illus- 
 trates the idea underlying small bills of fare, that 
 every person Avill partake of the one dish, if that 
 one dish be made of surpassing excellence. 
 
 The reader perceives that as cream fillings a vari- 
 ety of dissimilar compounds here come together. 
 They are alike, however, in being each one adapted 
 for several uses, for spreading on toast, cakes, filling 
 tarts, tartlets, pies, etc., besides filling cream puffs. 
 In another point they are all alike, and one being 
 learned the rest become the easier for it. They all 
 have to be stirred over the fire till thickened — that 
 one touch of cookery makes the whole lot kin. 
 
70 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 A BOOK OF PUFFS, ECLAIRS AND 
 CREAM FILLINGS—Conoluded. 
 
 If a list had to be made of the articles of pastry 
 held highest in popular esteem, cream puflfe would 
 be found somewhere near the beginning. The pop- 
 ular name, Boston cream puffs, might lead to the 
 supposition that they are of American origin, but, 
 far from it, there is so little in our trade that is new 
 that I have a private opinion that Pharaoh's baker, 
 the one who befriended Joseph, knew how to make 
 them just as well as we do. There are many finer 
 and more delicate articles that meet with less appre- 
 ciation, and when we find a thing so prone to disap- 
 pear, not only from the baker's windows, but from 
 well-set supper, lunch and dinner tables, too, as 
 cream puflFs are, it is the part of good policy to see 
 how we can make the best of them. There is more 
 wit and humor in these puflFs than in anything else we 
 make If it were not for this they would be in still 
 greater request than they are. Wit is defined as 
 something which startles by its unexpectedness. Wit 
 often runs to practical jokes. When a person eating 
 in haste, as the majority do, takes a bite of a puff 
 that is filled with a cream insufficientfly cooked and 
 consequently in a fluid state, and the said cream is 
 unexpectedly propelled this way and that way over 
 his apparel, the wit of it may be apparent to all, but 
 is sure not to be relished by the victim. This sort 
 of wit should be discouraged, to which end the vari- 
 ous cautions about the proper preparations of the 
 pastry creams have already been given. Humor is 
 not so objectionable, and when pure most people en- 
 joy it. It is defined as a faculty of kindly pleas- 
 antry. The humor of cream puffs is seldom un- 
 mixed. 
 
 There is humor, but not of a kindly sort, in giv- 
 ing a plate of empty puffs to a hungry beggar and 
 watching the falling of his countenance when he 
 discovers their emptiness; and there is humor in 
 setting a plate of the same before the hotel boarders 
 who habitually pick and peel the crust off everything 
 before them — off the bread and rolls and corn bread 
 — the tops of the pies — the brown outside froa ell 
 the meats — but this is humor of the kindly sort, as 
 it makes such people happy to have something that 
 they may peel, and be welcome, and leave no waste 
 behind. 
 
 eggs one at a time. Drop small spoonfuls of the 
 paste on baking sheets very slightly greased, allow- 
 ing an inch or more of space between them, and bake 
 in a moderate oven about 20 minutes. Cut a slit in 
 the side and fill the puffs with pastry cre>»m. Makes 
 40 to 
 
 S»T. 
 
 To the best bakers who make them in large quan- 
 tities daily, there is nothing easier than cream puffs, 
 but it is not the less true that they are "mighty un- 
 certain" where made only occasionally and baked 
 in the uneven heat of a cooking range, instead of an 
 oven. 
 
 A very ordinary workman, 1 once knew, traveled 
 as a first-class pastry cook from town to town on the 
 strength of a knack he had of making these trifles in 
 greater perfection than anybody else. It was his 
 one trick, but it stood him in good stead for short 
 spells. 
 
 The more the paste is beaten up against the side 
 of the pan as the eggs are added, and after, the more 
 the puffs^will expand in baking. 
 
 When they are perfect they are nearly smooth and 
 look like small cauliflowers, whence, perhaps, comes 
 one of their French names. To make them so, the 
 paste must be almost soft enough to run out of shape 
 on the pans; another egg may be required. 
 
 It is safer to use a little less lard or butter and a 
 little more flour than the receipt, for a first trial. 
 
 The puffs will not rise at all if the paste be al- 
 lowed to become cold before the eggs are beaten in- 
 to it. 
 
 The handsomest puffs are those baked done with- 
 out the ove'' door ever being opened in the mean- 
 time. 
 
 3»«. 
 
 Oroam Puffs. 
 
 Boston cream puffs of the baker's shops. Eclairs 
 d la crSme, Profitiolles, Petits — ckoux, etc. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 ^ pound of lard or butter. 
 
 J pound of flour. 
 10 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 Bring the water to a boil with the lard and salt 
 in it. Put in the flour all at once, and stir the mix- 
 ture over the fire about five minutes, or till it be- 
 comes a stiff paste. Then take it off and beat in the 
 
 SOS. Com Starch Cream Puffs. 
 
 Finest. The name, eclair, is probably from the 
 French word signifying a gap or clear place These 
 became Sclairs au chocolat, or au cafe, according to 
 the cream used for filling. Peiits-ehauz d la comtesse 
 are small puffs dipped in chocolate icing and the 
 coating dried on them before serving. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of corn starch. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 Boil half the milk with the butter in it. Mix the 
 starch with the other half. Pour both together and 
 cook to a smooth paste. Add the eggs one at a time 
 — after removing from the fire and allowing the paste 
 to fall below boiling heat — and beat thoroughly. The 
 pieces of paste dropped on the baking pans should 
 not be larger than guinea eggs. Makes 50. 
 
 S09. 
 
 Transparent Puffs. 
 
 These rise in shape like bells, or inverted tea- 
 cups. 
 1 pint of water. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 11 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 6 whole eggs and 4 whites. 
 
 300. Ooooanut Puff Balls. , 
 
 Eclairs au caramel. Excellent for set tables, for 
 ball or concert suppers, and not too common. It is 
 extremely wrong, however, to thus sugar-coat co- 
 lapsed, dumpy, or burnt-up failures of puflfs, and 
 try to pass them off as eclairs au caramel. The 
 French never do that way, (we hope.) 
 
 Make the desired number of cream puffs of 
 whichever mixture you have the best success with. 
 
 They are not to be filled with anything. They 
 should be small, light-baked, but dry, smooth and 
 hollow, and either round or egg-shaped. Roll them, 
 after baking, first in thick sugar syrup and then in 
 grated cocoanut mixed with granulated sugar on a 
 plate. Dry the puffs in a warm place, that they may 
 not be sticky when served. 
 
 To make the syrup, pour half a cup of water on a 
 pound of white sugar, and let it boil up without 
 stirring. Chopped almonds can be used as well as 
 cocoanut. 
 
 301. Eclairs aux Confitures. 
 
 Sweet cream puffs variously shaped and filled with 
 fruit jelly, conserve, or any kind of sweetmeat. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 7 ounces of butter. 
 
 3 ounces of sugar. 
 10 ounces of flour. 
 
 6 or 7 eggs. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the water with the sugar and butter in it, 
 then stir in the flour and make the paste as directed 
 for the preceding varieties. 
 
 Fancy shapes are made of this paste by using a 
 lady-finger sack and tubes, to form fingers, cres- 
 cents, etc., and egging and sugaring them before bak- 
 ing. 
 
 CHEESE PUFFS WITH ANCHOVY 
 BUTTER. 
 
 30S. Bamequins a 1' Italienne. 
 
 ^ pint of milk or water. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 4 ounces of cheese. 
 
 6 eggs. Salt. 
 
 Make the paste of milk, butter and flour, as for 
 cream puffs, and mix in the cheese — previously 
 grated or minced — by pounding smooth while hot. 
 Add the eggs one at a time. Place on the baking 
 pans in small oblong shapes, and bake carefully. 
 They are not good if in the least dark colored. Makes 
 about 30. For filling, mix 4 ounces of fresh butter 
 
 witfi 6 tablespoonfuls of essence of anchovies, both 
 slightly warmed, and then made cold before using. 
 
 The English ruralists are great at making cheese- 
 cakes in variety. A kind of tart made of sweet milk 
 or cream curd is the genuine sort, and holds about 
 the same relative importance at the well-provided 
 tables of the better class that pumpkin pies do on 
 this side. The scarcity of English culinary terms, 
 however, has made cheesecake a name expansive 
 enough to take in a number of French knick-knacks, 
 such as the following, which only come in turn be- 
 cause they are cream curd puffs. 
 
 303. 
 
 Nothing can be made of milk curd, successfully, 
 unless the curd be scalded to firmness so that it can 
 be pressed dry; a point that our receipts, as we find 
 them, hardly ever mention. Curdle the milk or 
 cream with rennet as if for cheese; then set the pan on 
 the range and slowly come to the boiling point. Pour 
 off the whey and hang up the curd in a napkin to 
 drip dry, and then slightly press it. That is what 
 is meant by "well-prepared, firm curd," and a num- 
 ber of good things, to be described at some other 
 time, can be made of it without fear of disappoint- 
 ment. 
 
 304. Cheese Curd Puffs. 
 
 Cheesecakes. Petits Talmouses au Parmesan. 
 
 6 ounces of cream or milk curd. 
 
 ^ pint of milk or water. 
 
 2 or 3 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 4 ounces of grated cheese. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 Some pie paste for the bottoms. 
 
 Of these ingredients make a paste the same aa for 
 cream puffs, the curd and grated cheese to be pounded 
 into it while hot. Roll out pie paste, the thinner 
 the better; cut out flats with a biscuit cutter; place 
 a teaspoonful of the paste in the middle of each, wet 
 the edges and pinch them up in shape of a conti- 
 nental three-cornered hat, inclosing the curd paste 
 within. 
 
 Brush them over with egg and water and bake in 
 a moderate oven about 15 minutes. They expand 
 in baking and become hollow. May be filled with 
 creamed cheese. 
 
 305. 
 
 Cream Curd Puffs. 
 
 Cheesecakes. Talmouses d, la creme. 
 
 The same in form as the last, but sweet. Inclose 
 a spoonful of the curd paste in a pastry bottom; egg 
 over and dredge with sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of cream curd. 
 
 ^ pint of milk. 
 
 1 ounce of sugar. 
 
72 
 
 THE A3MEERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 
 5 eggs. Salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of flavoring extract. 
 
 Pie paste for the bottoms. 
 
 Make a cooked paste as for cream pufts — the but- 
 ter and sugar boiled in the milk — flour stirred in, 
 then the curd; the eggs beaten in one at a time, and 
 flavoring added last. 
 
 These puff's can be partially filled with any of the 
 creams or conserves, for making which, the direc- 
 tions have already been givea. 
 
 300. Pineapple Conserve. 
 
 1 can of pineapple. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 Reduce the fruit to a pulp by mashing in a bright 
 saucepan; add to it half the juice from the can and 
 the sugar and butter. Boil; add the eggs, and stir 
 over the fire a few minutes, till thick. 
 
 One pound of grated, fresh pineapple and a half 
 cup of water answers the same as the canned. Sim- 
 mer with the sugar till cooked and transparent- 
 ooking, then finish like the other. 
 
 30?. 
 
 Cuban Conserve. 
 
 For Cuban cream cake, Sclairs aux confitures, 
 bouchees, etc. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of fresh, grated cocoanut. 
 4 or 5 oranges. 
 
 2 lemons.^ 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs, 
 
 Grate the yellow rinds of all the fruit and squeeze 
 the juice into the sugar, carefully excluding the bit- 
 ter seeds. Boil the syrup thus made; add the but- 
 ter and cocoanut; boil again, then beat in the yolks. 
 Cook five minutes more. 
 
 Desiccated cocoanut does as well; steep it first in 
 •nilk enough to barely moisten it. 
 
 308. 
 
 The Best Mince Pies in the "World. 
 
 It is not so difficult to make good mince-meat as 
 to make the pies healthful and enjoyable after it is 
 made. Mince pies, too frequently, in hotels where 
 the desire is to make them rich, are made so that 
 
 they are little better than dabs of sweetened grease. 
 The finest pufF-paste is not suitable for them, but a 
 medium quality should be made. The edges will not 
 rise on mince pies much in any case, and rich puff"- 
 paste is lost upon them. They have the poorest ap- 
 pearance of any pies if baked plain, but can be 
 made most inviting by being glazed. 
 
 But don't paint them with yellow smears of egg- 
 yolk. Mix the yolk of an egg thoroughly with 
 twice as much water; brush the tops of the pies over 
 with it before baking; sift a very thin coating of 
 granulated sugar all over, and then bake in a mod- 
 erate oven till the bottoms are baked dry and light 
 brown, and the tops are covered with a crisp, glazed 
 crust. Mince pies should have both bottom and top 
 crusts rolled quite thin; otherwise the superfluous 
 pastry edges are invariably thrown away. 
 
 309. Mince-Meat a la Royale. 
 
 Strictly first-class in all its appointments. 
 
 2 pounds of lean roast or boiled beef. 
 
 2 pounds of suet. 
 
 2 pounds of apples. 
 
 2 pounds of currants. 
 
 2 pounds of seedless raisins. 
 
 2 pounds of brown sugar 
 
 1 pound of candied citron, 
 
 2 ounces of ground spices — mace, nutmeg, cinna- 
 mon and cloves. 
 
 1 or 2 cans of Bartlett pears, with the juice. 
 
 2 pounds of preserved ginger 
 
 12 oranges— juice and grated rind. 
 
 6 lemons — juice and grated rind. 
 
 1 pint of rum. 
 
 1 pint of brandy. 
 
 1 quart of port wine. 
 
 Chop all the ingredients small. Don't grind them 
 in a machine. Then mix everything together — the 
 dry articles first, and liquids poured over them. Put 
 the mince-meat in jars, cover close, and let stand a 
 week or two before using. 
 
 When preserved ginger cannot be had, boil half a 
 pound of common race ginger in syrup made with 2 
 lbs. of sugar in 2 quarts of water. When boiled 
 down to one quart, put the syrup in the mince, and 
 further extract the ginger flavor by pouring the 
 port wine upon it and making warm. This ginger 
 is not to be used in the mincc-meat, only its ex- 
 tracted flavor. 
 
 When the oranges furnished are ripe and thin- 
 skinned it is better to chop half of them after 
 squeezing, and add them to the mince, instead of 
 only gratirg. Grate the rest and use the juice of 
 all after excluding the seeds. 
 
 310. 
 
 Lemon Mince Meat "Without Meat. 
 
 Where brandy is disapproved of, use double 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 78 
 
 quantity of strictly medicinal old port wine instead. 
 The spirit evaporates in baking. 
 
 4 lemons. 
 
 2 pounds of white sugar. 
 
 2 pounds of currants. 
 
 1 pound of seedless raisins. 
 
 2 pounds of suet, 
 
 1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 
 
 ^ pint of brandy and port- wine mixed. 
 
 Use lemons that are ripe thin-skinned, not harsh 
 and bitter. Boil them in a quart of water till the wa- 
 ter is half boiled away. Then squeeze the juice into 
 the sugar, throw away the seeds, and mince the 
 lemon rinds small. 
 
 Cut or chop the raisins, mince the suet fine and 
 mix all the ingredients together. Keep in a covered 
 jar. 
 
 The -srater the lemons were boiled in should be 
 added to the mince. This quantity makes about 20 
 pies, according to size. 
 
 311. Bnglish Standard Mince-Meat. 
 
 2 pounds of lean roast or boiled beef. 
 
 2 pounds of suet. 
 
 2 pounds of apples, 
 
 2 pounds of currants. 
 
 2 pounds of seedless raisins. 
 
 2 pounds of brown sugar. 
 
 1 pound of candied citron. 
 
 J pound of orange or lemon rinds, previously boiled 
 tender. 
 
 2 ounces of ground spices — mace, nutmeg, cloves 
 and cinnamon. 
 
 3 quarts of sweet cider. 
 
 1 quart of common brandy. 
 
 Chop the meat and suet fine, and season them 
 with a little salt and pepper. Cut the citron in 
 small bits, mince the lemon rinds, and chop or cut 
 the raisins. Mix all together and let stand two 
 weeks before using. If too dry, wine, cider or 
 brandy, or all mixed, should be added when the pies 
 are filled. Candied orange or lemon peel, of course, 
 can be used instead of the stewed peel, but costs 
 more and gives less flavor. This is enough for 50 or 
 60 pies, according to size. 
 
 With a standard like the foregoing receipt to start 
 from, anyone can vary the qualityand cost of mince 
 meat, according to circumstances. Apples in excess 
 make it poor and insipid. Raisins, currants and 
 orange peel, and wine or sweet cider, make it rich. 
 The meat is only a foundation. Cheap mince-meat 
 is made by dosing with ground spices, and leaving 
 out the more expensive materials. 
 
 318. Good Common Mince-Meat. 
 
 2 pounds of minced beef or tongue. 
 
 3 pounds of suet. 
 
 4 pouunds of currants. 
 
 3 pounds of apples. 
 
 1 pound of raisins. 
 
 1 pound of brown sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 
 
 1 pound of candied citron, or the same of orange 
 and lemon rinds boiled tender. 
 
 1 pint of common brandy. 
 
 3 quarts of cider, or enough to make it juicy. 
 
 Put the raisins in whole. Mince all the rest, sea- 
 soning the meat and suet a little with salt and pep- 
 per. Should be kept 3 or 4 weeks before using. 
 Makes about 40 or 50 pies. 
 
 Nothing is saved by buying trashy currants. They 
 have to be well washed and picked over free from 
 stones, and the more dirt there is the more will wash 
 away. Some currants are like small raisins, nice 
 and clean and large. There is no waste in them. 
 
 To Clean Currants. — Put them into a colander 
 with holes not too large; set that down in a pan half 
 full of warm water and stir the currants about vigor- 
 ously. The dirt will go through the holes. Pour 
 the water away two or three times. This is the 
 quickest plan and most thorough. Spread the cur- 
 rants out in a baking pan; pick them over and let 
 
 them dry for use. 
 
 314. 
 
 To Clean Raisins. — When sultana seedless are 
 furnished, or even the larger kind of seedless rais- 
 ins, put them in a colander with a handful of flour 
 mixed in, and rub off the fine stems, which then by 
 sifting about will fall through the holes. When the 
 greater part have been so got rid of, the raisins must 
 be picked over separately, especially to remove the 
 gravel stones that may chance to be among them. 
 Layer raisins have to be seeded to be good in any- 
 thing. A most tedious operation and requiring such 
 help as can be had. 
 
 Some thirty years ago the English Vegetarians 
 made a good deal of noise in the world. Their head- 
 quarters was in the Channel Islands, where their 
 representative paper was published. It was called 
 the Vegetarian Banner and Manx Healthtan Journal. 
 Its motto was "Fruits and Farinacea, the Proper 
 Food of Man." Its leading idea was, that absti- 
 nence from meat diet would make the worli better. 
 Those who supported it set themselves to work earn- 
 estly to get up a new system of cookery wherein 
 meat should have no place, and a great many curi- 
 osities in the way of billsof-fare of dinners without 
 meat were published in it in consequence. The an- 
 nexed is one of their receipts. The cider excepted. 
 
 VEGETARIAN MINOB PIE. 
 
 315. 
 
 Jersey Pie. 
 
 J pound of currants. 
 
 \ pound of seedless raisins. 
 
 1 pound of brown sugar and molasses mixed. 
 
74 
 
 THE AllCEBIOAN PASTR7 COOK. 
 
 A little salt and pepper. 
 
 1 ounce of mixed ground spices — cinnamon, mace, 
 cloves and alspice. 
 
 I pound of crushed crackers or dry bread crumbs. 
 
 1 pint of cold water. 
 
 J pint of vinegar or hard cider. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of lemon extract, 
 f pound of butter, melted. 
 
 4 beaten eggs. 
 
 Mix all the dry articles in a bowl, then add the 
 fluids to the eggs, and pour over and mix in the 
 melted butter by hard stirring. The proportion of 
 molasses to sugar may be according to kind. All 
 syrup will do. Make like other mince pies. A 
 half pint of brandy added makes the resem- 
 blance very close. Makes about 10 pies, more or 
 less, according to size. 
 
 310. Cheapest Good Mince Meat. 
 
 Suitable for charitable institutions, etc., and not 
 easily distinguishable from the costlier mixtures. It 
 will not intoxicate. 
 
 1 J pounds of bi'ead. 
 
 1 pound of boiled beef or ox heart. 
 
 2 pounds of brown sugar. 
 1 quart of good molasses. 
 
 1 pound of common dried apples. 
 
 IJ pounds of suet. 
 
 1 pound of raisins. 
 
 1 pound of currants. 
 
 4 ounces of ground cinnamon and other spices 
 mixed. 
 
 1 ounce of black pepper. 
 
 1 pint of vinegar. 
 
 Peel of 2 or 3 oranges. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 Pour two quarts of cold water over the bread; 
 steep and mash. Boil the apples in two quarts of 
 water, then chop them and add the j nice to the rest 
 of the ingredients, all minced and mixed as usual. 
 The orange peel should be boiled a little while and 
 then minced fine. Any stewed fruit liquor or cider 
 can be added with advantage. Makes 2 gallons — 
 30 to 50 pies. 
 
 317. Finger Biscuits. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar — 2 cup»- 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 6 tablespoonfuls of water. 
 
 12 ounces of flour — 2 heaping cups. 
 
 Separate the eggs, the whites into a good sized 
 bowl, the yolks into the mixing pan. Put the su 
 gar to the yolks and stir up then add the water and 
 they can be beaten to a thick foam. It may take 
 10 minutes. Have the flour ready. Whip the 
 whites with the wire egg-whisk till they are firm 
 enough to bear up an egg Mix the flour in the 
 yolks and stir in the whipped whites last. , 
 
 Lay the mixture in small finger-lengths with a 
 lady -finger tube and sack or a paper cornet, on a 
 sheet of blank paper. Sift powdered sugar over 
 them plentifully, catch up two corners of the sheet 
 and shake off the surplus. Lay the sheet on a bak- 
 ing pan. 
 
 Bake about 6 minutes. Take off by wetting the 
 paper under side and stick the cakes together while 
 they are still moist. 
 
 318. White Jelly Drops. 
 
 The same mixture as number 3. Make drop 
 cakes same as lady fingers, well glazed by letting 
 the siftings of powdered sugar lie upon them a few 
 minutes before baking. 
 
 When done sandwich a slice of good wine jelly 
 between two, and keep cold until time of serving. 
 
 319. Star Kisses. 
 
 1 pound of fine granulated sugar. 
 
 8 whites of eggs 
 
 Flavoring extract. 
 
 Whip the whites with a bunch of wire in a cold 
 place until they are firm enough to bear up an egg, 
 add the sugar and flavor and beat a few seconds 
 longer. Put the meringue paste thus made into a 
 sack and star-pointed tube or else into a stiff paper 
 cornet having the point cut like saw teeth and press 
 out portions size of walnuts on to pans slightly 
 greased and then wiped clean. Bake in a very 
 slack oven about 10 minutes or till the kisses are of 
 a light fawn color and swelled partially hollow. 
 They slip off easily when cold 
 
 320. Frozen Fig Pudding 
 
 Figs cut small and mixed in caramel ice cream 
 and frozen in brick molds in a most excellent com- 
 bination — a modified tutti frutti. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 14 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 pound of figs. 
 
 The caramel gives the flavor, but half a cupful of 
 curacoa improves it. 
 
 Take four tablespoonfuls of the sugar to make 
 caramel, put it into a saucepan or frying-pan over 
 t,he fire without any water, and let it melt and be- 
 come a medium molasses color, not burnt, however, 
 then pour in half a cupful of water, and let boil 
 and dissolve. 
 
 Make rich boiled custard of the milk, sugar and 
 yolks, pour the caramel into it, strain into the 
 freezer, and freeze as usual. Cut the figs small as 
 raisins and mix them in- Put the frozen pudding 
 into Neapolitan molds, and bed them in ice and 
 salt for two hours. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 76 
 
 321. Water Sponge Oake 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar — 2 cups 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 J pint of water— a large cup. 
 
 18 ounces flour — 4 rounded cups. 
 
 1 heaping teaspoonful baling powder. 
 
 Separate the eggs, the whites into a good-sized 
 bowl, the yolks into the mixing pan. 
 
 Put the sugar and water with the yolks and beat 
 up until they are light and thick. 
 
 Mix the powder in the flour. 
 
 Whip the whites to a very firm froth, and when 
 they are ready stir the flour into the yolk mixture 
 and mix in the whipped whites last. Bake either 
 in small sponge cake molds— the little tin oblong- 
 shaped pans joined a dozen together — or else 
 spread in a large pan, and cut the cake in squares 
 when it is cold. 
 
 322. Strawberry Meringue. 
 
 This is sold extensively at the fine bakeries un- 
 der the name, generally, of strawberry shortcake. 
 For the cake take the butter sponge cake, or 
 8 ounces granulated sugar — 1 cup. 
 5 eggs. 
 
 4 ounces butter, melted — J cup, 
 ^ cup of milk. 
 12 ounces of flour — 3 cups. 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 Beat the sugar and eggs together a minute or two, 
 add the melted butter, the milk, the powder and the 
 flour. Bake on jelly-cake pans as thin as it can be 
 spread, or, if preferred, on a large shallow baking 
 pan. The cake is liable to rise in the middle and 
 must be spread on the pan accordingly. 
 
 When done cover the top of the cake with raw 
 stiawbcrries and spread a thick covering of mer 
 ingue on top of them. Set the cake in the oven one 
 minute to bake a very light color on top, but the 
 meringue paste must not be cooked through. 
 
 The meringue paste or frosting is made by beat, 
 ing 5 whites of eggs to a firm froth and then mixing 
 in 4 tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, 
 Cut in squares to serve. 
 
 323. Family Fruit Oake 
 
 3 cupfuls of raisins — 1 pound. 
 
 4 of currants — 1 pound. 
 1 of sugar — 6 ounces, 
 
 1 of butter — 6 ounces. 
 
 1 molasses — 12 ounces 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 1 cupful of sour milk. 
 1 teaspoonful of soda. 
 4 large cupfuls of flour — 18 ounces. 
 Having prepared the fruit, make the butter soft 
 mix it and the sugar, molasses, eggs and sour milk 
 
 together in a pan, and beat well; mix the soda in 
 the flour, put that in and beat again. Dust the 
 fruit with flou., stir in, bake in a mold or shallow 
 pan. 
 
 Another cake of the same sort can be made by 
 mixing fruit in the sponge ginger-bread. No. 220. 
 
 324. Blackberry Meringue. 
 
 Make the same as strawberry meringue at 
 No. 322. 
 
 325. Peach Meringue. 
 
 Pare ripe peaches (not cooked), and out them to 
 size of strawberries and make the same as straw- 
 berry meringue at No. 322. 
 
 326. Peach Shortcake. 
 
 The same thing as strawberry shortcake, using 
 chopped ripe peaches instead. It is a cake of short 
 paste, not sweet, as large as a plate and thick as a 
 biscuit, split in two after baking, peaches and sugar 
 spread on the lower half, the other placed on top 
 with the split side upward and more peaches 
 spread upon that. It is eaten with cream. The 
 ingredients required are: 
 
 1 cupful of lard or butter — 8 ounces. 
 
 3 cupfuls of flour — 12 ounces. 
 
 ^ teaspoonful salt. 
 
 1 cup of ice water. 
 
 1 quart of cut peaches. 
 
 1 cupful of sugar. 
 Pare the peaches, cut them small and shake up 
 with the sugar before making the paste, and set them 
 in a cool place. Bub the butter into the flour thor- 
 oughly with the hands. Salt is needed only where 
 lard is used. Make a hollow in the middle, pour in 
 the wa'er, mix up soft, roll out on the table in flour 
 reserved for the purpose. It makes the cake flaky 
 and part in layers to roll it and fold it a few times 
 like pie paste. 
 
 Then make it up round,1et stand five minutes,roll 
 out thick as biscuit and bake on a jelly-oake pan. 
 Finish with fruit as above stated. 
 
 327. Apple Shortcake. 
 
 Use mellow apples of fine flavor and make the same 
 as peach shortcake, the apples not to be cooked, but 
 mixed with sugar and chopped and used immediately* 
 
 Peach Cobbler. 
 
 A peach pie made in a baking pan to be cut out 
 in squares. Make common pie paste, roll out the 
 larger half of it to a thin sheet and take up oflf the 
 table by rolling it up on the rolling pin and so unrol^ 
 it on the pan. Put in pared and cut peaches an 
 inch deep, dredge a little sugar over them, oorer 
 with the top crust and bake about half an hour. 
 
70 
 
 THE AMERICAN FASTBT COOK. 
 
 
 Border Moulds — For borders of jelly or blanc- mange, the 
 
 center filled with whipped cream or fruit compotes— also for j^q Cream Mould. See No. 75 
 
 salads, shrimps in aspic and other ornamental dishes. 
 
 Melon Mould— For puddings, 
 salads, pressed meats, lces» 
 etc. See No. 127. 
 
 Neapolitan or Brick Mould. 
 See No. 125. 
 
 Boxes of Cutters.— Tall column box for cutting scollops of wi,4r. n-h..r>r. t?^^ f.^fi,i«£f 
 
 meat, (tongue, chicken, etc.,) truffles and vegetables-others ^^'P Churn. -For frothing 
 for cakes and pastry. ^ cream and custards- the end 
 
 ^ ■^ 18 perforated. See No. 168. 
 
 Silver Plated Shells. 
 
 loped oysters. 
 
 -For escal- 
 
 Stamped Tin Shells. 
 
 The Proper Sort of Pan for beating eggs and making 
 cake in— also, Candy Kettle — are made both of copper 
 and heavy tin, all sizes. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 77 
 
 THE HOTEL BOOK OF PUDDINGS. 
 
 Considering with what reluctance the public are 
 said to read prefaces, it seems quite fortunate that 
 puddings are such familiar things and there is nex 
 to nothing to be said about them; and, besides, thej 
 constitute such a remarkably numerous family — race 
 Burns called it — that if only they all have to speak 
 for themselves there will be quite a time. And that 
 reflection alone must give us pause, for among them 
 are some such hoary patriarchs, venerable relics of 
 antiquity, as would hardly brook any levity from us 
 the creatures of yesterday. Suppose one should say 
 to some of these old respectabilities, "You old rel- 
 ics, you are heavy, you are indigestible; you are a 
 black, unwholesome lump; you should be made over, 
 shaken up, renovated like an old hotel; would they 
 not rise up and annihiliate us with, 
 
 'Pass, little mortal, pass, 
 Thy days are but as grass.* 
 
 But we were 
 
 •Formed ages since, perhaps before the flood, 
 We nurtured the stout dryads of the wood.' " 
 
 Every one must have observed how natural it 
 seems for artists to draw pudiings with faces, es- 
 pecially Christmas plum puddings — depend upon it, 
 there is something in it. If it would be such a 
 heinous piece of presumption to attempt to change 
 the nature of the old plum pudding, is it not almost 
 as bad to change its form ? There is not much poe- 
 try about puddings,but what little mite there is belongs 
 to the old time round pudding boiled in a bag. The 
 tall fellow in fine fluted moulds is an upstart. A 
 writer in the Bazar — it may be three years since — 
 traced back the plum pudding to its infancy, when 
 it was only porridge — a sort of porridge with plums 
 in it; but it grew out of that, and although occa- 
 sionally through the accident of coming untied in the 
 kettle it relapses temporarily into its early state, it is 
 respectable and to memory dear only as a pudding 
 round and solid. In the sanctum where these lines are 
 written — one that is next neighbor to all out of 
 doors, looking off "where wilds immeasureably 
 spread seem lengthening as you go" — there is upon 
 the wall a picture from Harper's Weekly of a Christ- 
 mas at sea — "the pride of the ship's cook." He is 
 carrying the plum pudding himself to the captain's 
 cabin; none of the boys may touch that. The pict- 
 ure is hung up a little askew in order to straighten 
 up the cook. It makes but little difference which 
 way one hangs a picture of a vessel on a rolling sea, 
 but the cook looks a little reeling, and that pudding 
 must be kept right side up at all hazards. Let no 
 one entertain the least question about that pudding, 
 it is the traditional sort, dark and solid and round, 
 and the holly is sticking in the top; the glossy, 
 •harp-spiked, red-berried English holly; brought 
 
 from shore when the vessel started and carefully 
 kept for the day. Who could dare lay innovating 
 hands upon the composition of that ancient pud- 
 ding ? Here it is. 
 
 338. 
 
 English Boiled Plum Puddingf. 
 
 3 pounds of flour. 
 2 pounds of chopped suet. 
 2 pounds of seedless raisins. 
 IJ pounds of currants. 
 
 1 pound of citron. 
 
 2 ounces of mixed ground spices — cinnamon, mace, 
 nutmeg and cloves. 
 
 Mix all the above dry articles together in a pan. 
 
 Then mix the following fluids : 
 
 1^ pints of milk. 
 
 \ cup of black molasses, large measure. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 1 pound of common yellow sugar. 
 
 ^ pint of brandy. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Then stir both mixtures together. This should 
 be prepared over night, and next morning tied up in 
 four or five pudding cloths and boiled without inter- 
 mission six hours. 
 
 33» 
 
 Some persons have hardly a speck of reverence 
 
 for the antique, and had as lief add something to the 
 time-honored English plum pudding as not, if they 
 find it makes it lighter, more enjoyable and more 
 digestible. Such people can add to the preceding 
 receipts two pounds or less of fine white bread 
 crumbs, and to the fluid part a half pint more milk. 
 That is all, but it makes a difference. 
 
 The quantity of pudding prescribed is enough for 
 100 to 150 persons — that is to say, of persons having 
 hotel dinners to eat besides. 
 
 330. 
 
 The addition of molasses to the preceding, and 
 
 other puddings to come, is for the purpose of giving 
 with the spices a dark color, but when refined 
 syrups only can be had burnt sugar must be added 
 for coloring. Not only cooks but many others like- 
 wise ought to feel grateful to Count Albufage Cara- 
 mel, of Nismes, who invented caramel. It is used 
 forgiving a brown color to an immense number of 
 eatable and drinkable articles, and is not only harm- 
 less, but gives an agreeable flavor in some cases, as 
 in creams. Put some sugar in a frying pan over the 
 fire, let it burn darker than browned coffee, then fill 
 up the pan with water, boil and strain. 
 
 But there is another plum pudding, called in 
 French bills-of f&re poudinff d V Allemande, which all 
 who practice it will prefer to make nine times to the 
 preceding kind once. It contains no flour, and can 
 be boiled in half the time of Christmas pudding. 
 
78 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY OOOK. 
 
 Boiled Plum Pudding. 
 
 831. GERMAN PLUM PUDDING. 
 
 2 pounds of white bread crumbs. 
 
 1 pound of white sugar. 
 
 1 pound of chopped suet. 
 
 1 pound of raisins. 
 
 1 pound of currants. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 7 eggs. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of mixed ground spices— -cinnamon, 
 nutmeg and mace. 
 
 ^ cup of brandy. 
 
 Salt, Pijich of soda. 
 
 Mix the dry articles together — the bread crumbs 
 being grated or chopped quite fine — then wet with the 
 milk, eggs and brandy, the salt and soda dissolved 
 in them; tie in four pudding cloths and boil four 
 hours. 
 
 Either of the plum puddings can be boiled or 
 steamed in fancy moulds, to be sent to table 
 whole. 
 
 In deference to the temperance principles of some 
 of their guests, the best hotels make it a rule to pre- 
 pare two sauces for plum pudding, one being with- 
 out spirit, the other the customary brandy sauce, set 
 on fire just as the dish is sent in, or else the equally 
 approved sauce sahayon. 
 
 Another one of those revered patriarchs whom it 
 were almost sacrilege to touch is Burn's, with "hon- 
 est sonsie face," the haggis. In the English plum 
 pudding, however, there is a grim, unmistakable 
 identity that is very satisfying as compared with the 
 shadowy indefiniteness of the Scottish chief. It is a 
 pity that one of the last minstrels, if only one of 
 humble rank, did not fix unchangeably in verse the 
 component parts of the national haggis, as some one 
 has done the "Eve's pudding," and Sydney Smith 
 did for his salad, and another did for mulled wine. 
 We have a compound called haggis, without the pre- 
 ceding article, composed of meat, chopped ancho- 
 vies, eggs, bread, sour wine, pepper and salt. But 
 that does not seem to correspond with the remarks 
 of an editor of Burns, who says the haggis was to 
 Scotland what the plum pudding is to England, 
 and it was the pride of her people that all the in- 
 gredients and even the bag it was boiled in were of 
 native production. 
 
 It was either the Edinburgh Magazine or Cham- 
 ber's Miscellany that published the following receipt, 
 used on anniversary occasions in the best Edinburgh 
 hotels and said to have been contributed by a Fife- 
 shire landlady, who observed, however, that the rich 
 made the haggis as good as they liked but the poor 
 as good as they had means. We will not be too pre- 
 Bumptious, but call this a haggis. The haggis may 
 
 yet exist, "great chieftain of the pudding race," 
 but in his makeup he will be found like a highland 
 costume, not successfully transplantable. 
 
 • 333. A Scotch Haggis. 
 
 A kind of mince pudding, of the boiled plum 
 pudding order, made with a large proportion of 
 meat. 
 
 A calf s heart and tongue — 2^ pounds. 
 
 1 pound of chopped suet. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 1 pound of bread soaked in 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 1 pound of chopped apples, or raisins. 
 
 1 pound of white meat of chicken. 
 
 6 eggs. Salt to season. 
 
 ^ pint of home-made currant wine. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of mixed ground spices. 
 
 Cook the heart and tongue half-done, then mince 
 quite fine. Cut the breast of chicken in thin strips. 
 Mix all the ingredients well together, the dry arti- 
 cles first. Tie up in two pudding cloths and boil 4 
 hours. 
 
 Butter, sugar, and half cup of vinegar, all made 
 hot and beaten together, for sauce. 
 
 The great majority of all the best puddings made 
 are of bread, either wholly or in part. The next is 
 a good every day sort. 
 
 333. Baked Bread Pudding. 
 
 2 pounds of white bread slices. 
 
 2 quarts of milk, or milk and water. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of white sugar. 
 
 4 eggs. 
 
 Nutmeg. 
 
 The bread should be quite free from any dark 
 crust. Spread the butter on the slices and then cut 
 them in dice shapes. Mix milk, sugar and eggs to- 
 gether and pour over the squares of bread in the 
 baking pans. Bake till set in the middle. Any 
 pudding sace will suit. 
 
 "Hotel puddings," said a gentleman of good 
 judgment and extensive experience of hotel and club 
 life, for whom the writer was to prepare a litt'e 
 complimentary dinner, "hotel puddings I never eat 
 nor do I care to offer them to friends. They are al- 
 ways too sweet — nothing but sweet — cloying — too 
 sweet and rich at first, then further spoiled by a 
 sauce all sugar. How can hotel cooks be so dull as 
 not to see that they spoil their own work ? Now I 
 had a woman cook in New York whose efforts in that 
 line were a perfect contrast to what I had found at 
 hotel tables If you know of any pudding that is not 
 an hotel pudding, you may add it to the list." 
 
THE AMEBIOAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 79 
 
 There are no puddings that are not hotel pud- 
 dings. As in the case of English p'um puddings we 
 follow old patterns too much, and overleap the mark 
 trying to make the rich enough richer. 
 
 334. Baked Bread Custard. 
 
 MADEIRA WINE SAUCE. 
 
 2 pressed in quarts of white bread crumbs. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 4 ounces of butter melted. 
 
 4 ounces of white sugar. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Crumble the bread fine, either by grating or chop 
 ping. Grate the rind of the lemon into it and 
 squeeze the juice into the sugar. Beat the yolks of 
 eggs and add them and the sugar to the milk, then 
 the melted butter, and pour over the bread crumbs. 
 Stir up well, turn it into two buttered milk pans and 
 bake about half an hour. Buttering the pans allows 
 of the brown outside being taken out clean instead of 
 sticking to the pans and going to waste. In this 
 cheap, simple and excellent pudding, as in many 
 others, the whites of the eggs would do no good; the 
 pudding is richer without them. They can be used 
 for other purposes. 
 
 335. 
 
 The reader is advised to note the preceding re- 
 ceipt for bread custard, as several acceptable varie- 
 ties are made by certain additions, as 
 
 BAKED CITRON PUDDING, CREAM SAUCE. 
 RAISIN PUDDING, PT. WINE SAUc E. 
 CURRANT PUDDING, LEMON SAUCE. 
 
 Made by adding one pound of either of those or 
 other suitable fruit to the preparation. The fruit 
 must be strewn over the top after the puddings are 
 in the pans; they sink to the bottom if stirred in. 
 Pass a spoon over to press the fruit slightly under, 
 otherwise it comes out in black blisters. There is 
 as much in careful baking as skillful making. 
 
 Another use of the same mixture is for 
 
 336. Bread Puddingf Souffle. 
 
 Or Bread Soufle. For this make the bread custard, 
 but instead of baking stir ^the mixture in a sauce- 
 pan over the fire till it thickens and becomes like 
 paste. Take it ofi", and when cool enough not to 
 cook them add 6 or 8 beaten yolks. Then beat all 
 the whites that have been left over to stiflF froth, and 
 stir them into the mixture. When this is baked it 
 rises high above the top of the pan or mould. 
 
 337. Puddingrs Souffles. 
 
 It simplifies the making of puff puddings to re- 
 member that nearly all sorts of puddings that are 
 made with eggs, and many of the pie mixtures, such 
 
 as cream pies and cheesecakes and lemon and pump, 
 kin and corn starch custards, can be changed into 
 souffles by a very simple process which is the same 
 with all kinds in the main, only slight differences 
 having to be made according to the various mixtures 
 used. Pudding souses are of but little value for 
 ordinary hotel dinners which run on for hours, be- 
 cause they must be sent to table the minute they are 
 done, while still puffed up, otherwise, when they 
 have fallen, they are not so good as common pud- 
 dings. But for dinners on the European plan, for 
 parties, for dinners in courses and for individual 
 service — anywhere that there can be a set time for 
 serving the pudding these light trifles are much es- 
 teemed. 
 
 What is required to be done is to take the mix- 
 ture already prepared for a baked pudding or cream 
 pie and stir it over the fire till it assumes a pasty 
 consistency, then add to it some beaten yolks of 
 eggs raw; after that the whites whipped firm and 
 perhaps a little brandy. Then bake the finished 
 mixture either in large moulds or pudding shapes, 
 if for a party dining together, with a band of but- 
 tered paper pinned round to make the mould higher 
 — to be removed before serving — or, in small cups, 
 silver scallops or shells, to be served in individual 
 style, or else in little paper cases made for the pur- 
 pose. These little cases can be bought cheap, ready- 
 made in the cities. They need to be buttered and 
 baked slightly before using, to harden them. Cus- 
 tard cups so used can be set in a pan of water while 
 baking and need not be [made hot enough to spoil 
 them; these little puddings bake in 15 or 20 min- 
 utes. 
 
 The mixtures so treated puff up either hollow or 
 very spongy, and must be carried to table in that 
 condition. Smooth mixtures like bread puddings 
 and corn starch or rice flour compounds puff more 
 than rough-grained sorts,|such as cocoanut creams or 
 rice pudding. The pastry creams used for filling 
 puffs, also lemon] honey, pine apple conserve and 
 the like, that are already cooked need only to have 
 from 4 to 6 "yolks added and then the whipped 
 whites to make the richest possible souflBes. Flavor- 
 ings and brandy or wine are to be added according 
 to taste. 
 
 With these general explanations covering the 
 whole matter, only a few examples will be given here 
 and there as we go along. 
 
 338. 
 
 "Egg SouffleS' 
 
 INDIVIDUAL PUFF PUDDINGS. 
 
 First make the frangipane pastry cream : 1 quart 
 of milk; 2 ounces of butter; 4 ounces of flour; 8 
 ounces of sugarf 5 eggs. Mix sugar and flour dry; 
 stir into the boiling milk; cook awhile, then add the 
 eggs, and simmer 20 minutes. 
 
80 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 When this is partly cooled beat the yolks of 6 eggs 
 and stir them in a little at a time; flavor with lem- 
 on, vanilla or cinnamon extract. Then whip the 
 whites of 8 eggs quite firm and stir them in lightly. 
 Bake either in cups or paper cases, 10 to 15 min- 
 utes, in a brisk oven. Sift on the top of each some 
 powdered sugar flavored with vanilla powder or 
 lemon zest. No sauce required. The chocolate pas- 
 try cream, and others to be found in "Cream Fill- 
 ings" can be used in precisely the same way. 
 
 339. 
 
 Baked Brown Bread Puddinar. 
 
 POUDING A LA GOTHA. 
 
 2 full pressed quarts of graham bread crumbs. 
 
 2 quarts of water or milk (8 cups). 
 
 4 ounces of molasses (2 cooking spoons). 
 
 4 ouiices of butter. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 
 
 Have the bread finely crumbled; melt the butter 
 and mix it with the milk, eggs and molasses; stir all 
 together and bake half an hour. 
 
 The natural lightness of the bread counts for qual- 
 ity in all these puddings, and it should not be de- 
 stroyed by either scalding or heating. 
 
 Serve the preceding with honey and butter di- 
 luted and made hot, or else with any good pudding 
 
 Souffle puddings, it has been remarked, are not 
 adapted for hotel dinners long drawn out, but they 
 are very handsomely replaced by meringues, which, 
 — but stay; the Boston publisher's pudding must 
 not be forgotten. Blessed is the hotel guest whom 
 the waiters delight to honor. The publisher was one 
 of these — sojourning in a beautiful winter city — but 
 whether it was a real Spartan like abstemiousness of 
 habit or whether there could be nothing good out- 
 side of Boston, all their efforts were thrown away 
 until 
 
 **Ha 1 now you are bringing me something I 
 like." 
 
 340. Boston Bread Puddingr, 
 
 WITH BRANDY SAUCE. 
 
 2 pounds of bread in slices. 
 
 ^ pound of butter — best fresh. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 4 whole eggs and 4 yolks. 
 
 1 pound of clean picked currants. 
 
 ^ a nutmeg, grated. 
 
 Have the slices free from dark crust. Spread 
 them with the butter and place in two layers in two 
 pudding pans, with the currants sprinkled between 
 
 and on top. Beat and mix the eggs, sugar, milk 
 and nutmeg together, pour over the bread, cover the 
 puddings with either buttered paper orbread crusts, 
 and bake about half an hour. To be good, this pud- 
 ding must have plenty of custard in proportion to 
 the bread, and be baked late and served hot. 
 
 Lemon transparent sauce answers as well as 
 brandy. 
 
 "They say" that we in hotels run too much to baked 
 puddings and not enough to boiled-and steamed. It 
 need not be so. They, the complainants, are prob- 
 ably English, Germans and Scotch, who all are ac- 
 customed to puddings boiled rather than baked. 
 The last boiled pudding we had was Scottish. Where 
 else in old Scotland did we see a nice person making 
 a boiled pudding, a favorite cosmopolitan sort not 
 National in character ? Of course it was not Meg 
 Merrilies stirring the witch-pot which so terrified 
 Dominie Sampson, hun gry as he was; nor Flora Mao 
 Ivor; nor Die Vernon; nor George Sands' s French im- 
 itation of her, yet it was some one with a family resem- 
 blance to them, only there was the dash of sea waves 
 somewhere about. Mirando keeping house for Pros- 
 pero in the island cavern in the Tempest ? No. Two 
 young people cooking wild ducks on an island in 
 Foul Play ? No; milder; further north, among 
 cliffs and wild fowl. Noma, of the Fitful Head ? 
 No; but near by in Scottish waters. It was Madcap 
 "Violet on board a yacht making an apricot jam 
 pudding, a real roly-poly pudding for the captain, 
 and all hands if there were any besides Apricot 
 jam pudding is real good. Green apple rolls are 
 rather more popular on this side. Does Mr. William 
 Black really wish it to be understood that over there 
 the wealthy railroad builders' daughters all know 
 how to make puddings ? This one, it seems, made 
 her jam pudding with a heart ache; a very poor 
 mixture; too heavy; baking powder is incomparably 
 bet'er, as you shall see. 
 
 Boiled fruit rolls have the great recommendation 
 of not requiring either milk or eggs in their compo- 
 sition. Nowhere are eggs so lavishly used as in our 
 American hotel kitchens. They are usually cheap 
 enough, and if not it is best that articles requiring 
 eggs should have enough to make them what they 
 ought to be, but the need is, for times of scarcity, to 
 cultivate a knowledge of articles of a plainer sort. 
 These roll puddings and other plain combinations of 
 flour and fruit are used everywhere in England. 
 The Frenchman serves them at the best tables as 
 le pouding roule, or &s pouding a I' Allemande, or, d 
 
 r Anglaise, 
 when made with preserves or jam. 
 
 Not many can, and perhaps not many try, to make 
 the paste for boiled rolls as good as it is capable of 
 being; but when good it can safely be said that none 
 of our richest puddings are more in request than 
 these foP owing. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 81 
 
 341. 
 
 Boiled Roll Paste. 
 
 It is required to be as light and dry-looking when 
 boiled, as bread or biscuit, and to peel apart in 
 flakes It is made in the same general manner as 
 puff paste, but to secure the flakiness must be rolled 
 only 4 times. No shortening nor powder to be rubbed 
 in, but all to be rolled in layers. The softer the 
 dough can be, to roll well, the better will be the 
 pudding. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 1 pint of water — full measure, 
 
 1 teaspoonful of.salt. 
 
 f pound of firm, cold, sweet lard. 
 
 4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Butter can be used instead of lard, and the salt 
 omitted. 
 
 Lay aside a large handful of the flour to dust with. 
 Pour the cold water in the middle of the rest of the 
 flour and mix carefully to have it smooth. Turn 
 the dough on the floured table, work it very little, 
 spread it out by rolling; drop the lard in lumps an 
 inch apart all over, sprinkle the salt on that, sift a 
 little flour over, fold it in three, and count that one 
 turn. Roll it out again, spread two teaspoons of 
 powder over it dry like so much flour, fold over and 
 count two. At the next rolling spread on the rest 
 of the powder, and one more rolling and folding, 
 making four times, finishes it. Common short paste 
 and biscuit dough can also be used for roll pud- 
 dings; also biscuit dough improved by having short- 
 ening rolled in. 
 
 343. Boiled Green Apple Roll. 
 
 Pare and slice enough good cooking apples to 
 make two quarts when minced. Chop them in a 
 bowl and use without cooking, to spread over the 
 
 paste. 
 
 Cut the paste already made into 4 pieces, roll out 
 thin, spread the chopped apples evenly, roll up and 
 tie in pudding cloths previously wetted and floured. 
 Stick a pin in the middle to prevent swelling open; 
 drop into plenty of boiling water and keep boiling 
 without check from an hour to an hour and a half. 
 Serve with butter and sugar hard sauce. 
 
 These rolls can be steamed as well. The writer 
 thinks they are better boiled. Dip each one a mo- 
 ment in cold water when taking up, they come out 
 of the cloth easier for it. 
 
 343. Butter and Sugar Sauce. 
 
 HARD SAUCE. 
 
 1 pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 J pound of best butter. 
 
 Nutmeg. 
 
 Warm the butter and sugar sufficiently to mix 
 well. Beat them together till perfectly white. 
 Grate nutmeg over the smooih top. A favorite kind 
 of sauce for any plain pudding. 
 
 344. Boiled Cranberry Roll. 
 
 2 quarts of cranbei'ries. 
 
 1 pound of white sugar. 
 
 ^ pint of water. 
 
 Wash and pick over the cranberries, place I hem 
 in a bright kettle, strew the sugar over the top and 
 pour the water over that. Put on a tight lid to keep 
 in the steam, let them come to a boil slowly. Cook 
 about half an hour. Mash through a colander and 
 use the pulp for the boiled rolls. Itought to be cold 
 before being used. 
 
 All of these puddings are calculated for about fif- 
 ty people's orders. 
 
 Hotel cooks dishing up dinner like to sell out their 
 wares, whether fish, entrees, pastries or creams, as 
 well as people in market. The market varies a lit 
 tie in its demands, but in a general way the roly- 
 poly puddings finding the readiest sale are the two 
 kinds proceeding; after them come 
 CURRANT JELLY ROLL. 
 APRICOT JAM ROLL. 
 PEACH ROLL. 
 HUCKLEBERRY ROLL, 
 and then one made with molasses mixed with flour 
 and vinegar. 
 
 It takes baking-powder to make the preceding ar- 
 ticles, but the less shortening. Light and whole- 
 some preparations are taking the places of the too 
 solid puddings of a little while back. But baking, 
 powder cannot be had everywhere, and the cook is 
 most independent of circumstances who is richest 
 in resources. Other kinds of paste will do well, as 
 will be shown further on. At present we are in 
 haste to get up some puddings for Sundays. Before 
 getting too far away from them, however, it is nec- 
 essary to remark that none of the plum puddings 
 intended for boiling are of much account when 
 baked, but the following, if carefully baked, will be 
 found very satisfactory. 
 
 To crumble bread when it cannot be grated, first 
 slice it very thin, then cut in shreds and across in 
 small squares. It is the only neat way. Puddings 
 with white rough pieces of bread in the middle do 
 not look well. 
 
 346. Baked Fruit Pudding. 
 
 1 pound of bread crumbs. 
 
 ^ pound of chopped suet. 
 
 ^ pound of raisins. 
 
 ^ pound of currants. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 1 pint of milk or water. 
 
 3 eggs. Salt. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of mixed ground spices. 
 
 1 level teaspoonful of soda 
 
 Crumble the bread small; mix all the dry articles 
 
81? 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 with it except soda, which dissolve in the milk. 
 Beat the eggs in the milk and stir up the pudding 
 with it, add the brandy last. Bake one hour in 
 buttered pans. Cover with paper to keep the fruit 
 from blistering. 
 
 What the following pudding has done that it 
 should be called the "queen of puddings" no one 
 knows, but that is one name it is known by on both 
 sides of the Atlantic. Cooks demur at the appella- 
 tion, because there is always as good a pudding in 
 their lepository as ever was brought out, and each 
 one is the queen for the day. However this is a 
 pretty pudding. 
 
 347. Nonpareil Pudding. 
 
 JELLY PUDDING, MERINGUE PUDDING, QUEEN 
 OF PUDDINGS, ETC. 
 
 1 pressed in quart of white bread crumbs. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 ^ pound of butter melted. 
 
 J pound of sugar. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 cup of fruit jelly. 
 
 5 whites and 4 ounces of sugar for the merin 
 gue. 
 
 The jelly is to spread on top after the pudding 
 are baked. 
 
 Mix all the ingredients preceding it together cold 
 — the lemon grated and squeezed. Bake till set in 
 the middle. Take out and spread the jelly over the 
 top. Beat the whites of eggs till they will not fall 
 out of the bowl turned upside down; stir in the su- 
 gar — granulated is best — and a few drops of flavor- 
 ing. Set the puddings back in the oven till the jelly 
 on top is at boiling he it, then spread the meringue 
 over and let them stay with the oven doors wide 
 open to dry.bake and acquire a slight color. 
 
 It seems impossible to get along very fast, for now 
 there has to be a little talk about meringues. Me- 
 ringue (marang) paste is the mixture of beaten white 
 of egg and sugar. When we write lemon pie me- 
 ringuS, it means that it is meringued. Meringues 
 ake a wide scope. The icing and ornamenting on 
 cakes is strictly meringue paste. Egg kisses, as they 
 are called, are meringues. The diflferences are only 
 in the proportion of sugar to eggs. Let us call this 
 on puddings and lemon pies soft meringue to distin- 
 guish it from frosting. A tray full of saucers of 
 pudding of the preceding sort looks very attractive 
 when success has attended the making. The pud- 
 ding should be shallow in the pan, and the meringue 
 should be of about equal thickness; should be firm 
 and cut square, only very often it does not do so, 
 but falls after baking till it is nothing but a pitiful 
 
 scum. Too much baking is generally the reason. 
 Meringue needs only a very slight heat. Another 
 thing that spoils meringue is spreading it on cold 
 jelly or fruit. It never cooks at bottom but dis- 
 solves to syrup. Have the puddingg or pies baking 
 hot when the meringue touches them and it will not 
 disappoint you. As to getting the whites to beat up 
 light with ease and certainty that can be accom- 
 plished by having them cold to begin with, in a cold 
 bowl and beaten in a cool place. Fifteen minutes of 
 hard work may be avoided by taking this precau- 
 tion, and five minutes' beating will do as well. 
 
 The next is a fine pudding to make when you 
 have used the last pint of milk obtainable for ice 
 cream; for this needs to be made with water, to be 
 semi-transparent. 
 
 Lemon Meringue Pudding, with Sweet 
 348. Cream. 
 
 1 full pressed quart of bread crumbs. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 6 ounces of finely chopped suet. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 lemons — rinds of all, juice of 2. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 ^ teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Grate the rinds of the lemons into the bread 
 crumbs — using a tin grater and scraping the zest 
 from that with a lump of sugar — also mix in the 
 suet. Squeeze the lemon juice into the water, pour 
 it over the bread, add the sugar, eggs beaten, and 
 lastly the soda in a little water. Bake and finish 
 by spreading meringue over the top — made of the 
 whites left over — same as directed for nonpareil 
 pudding preceding. No jelly needed. For an 
 acid pudding like this an extra sweetness and fine 
 appearance may be given by sifting granulated sugar 
 on top of the meringue at the moment before putting 
 it in the oven — makes a glazed crust. The lemon 
 pudding, of course, can be left plain, without merin- 
 gue. Sweetened cream made hot, but not boiled, is 
 the best sauce. 
 
 349. Lemon Pudding Souffle. 
 
 INDIVIDUAL LEMON PUDDINGS. 
 
 Make the mixture for the lemon pudding of the 
 preceding receipt. Instead of baking stir it over the 
 fire in a bright saucepan till it becomes thick and 
 pasty. Beat 4 or 6 more yolks quite light and stir 
 them in; then beat all the whites left over to a stiff 
 froth and mix them in likewise. Bake in cups or 
 paper cases. If wished ;o ornament these small 
 puddings make some meringue and drop a table- 
 spoonful on top while baking, when done fawn col- 
 or drop some spots of bright red currant jelly on top 
 of that. Send straight from the oven to the table, 
 as they soon fall. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 83 
 
 Already there are two or tbree ways indicated of 
 "topping oflF" with meringue— plain; with a crust- 
 ing of sugar on top; and with spots of red jelly on 
 the white; ways that are equally applicable to flor- 
 entines, fruit compotes and other dishes. The next 
 specimen gives another variation. 
 
 350. Baked Oocoanut Pudding. 
 WITH ORANGE SYRUP. 
 
 1 pound of cocoanut (less if the desiccated is 
 used). 
 
 1 full pressed quart of bread crumbs. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 2 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 lemon, or sour orange. 
 
 4 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Make up like preceding kinds; mix in half the 
 cocoanut and bake in two buttered pans. Beat up 6 
 whites of eggs, add to the firm froth 5 ounces of 
 granulated sugar and the remaining half pound of 
 cocoanut. Spread this cocoanut meringue over the 
 puddings and bake again very slowly with the oven 
 doors open. Cut in squares or diamond shapes and 
 serve with orange syrup. 
 351. 
 
 There are numbers of good nondescript articles 
 which we hardly know where to place on an Ameri- 
 can hotel bill-of fare. 
 
 Their merit is proven by that best of tests, a con- 
 stant appreciative demand. A good dinner gets to 
 looking incomplete when occasionally they are left 
 oflf. As these articles do not belong anywhere else 
 they are by common consent and usage called "sweet 
 entrees'' — which is probably an Americanism— and 
 with the entrees they stand, usually bringing up the 
 rear. 
 
 As already hinted, these "sweet entrees" are al- 
 ways evidently welcome and undoubtedly make a 
 difference in the amount of pastry required after- 
 wards. But one of these is enough at a time. Bad 
 taste, poor management and poverty of resource 
 among meats and vegetables are apparent when a 
 bill-of-fare with ten or twelve entrees shows half of 
 them to be of a sweet or farinaceous character. 
 Without the one each day a long line of favorites, 
 such as fruit fritters, charlottes, rice cakes, sweet 
 croquettes, patties, turnovers, rice with apples, pan- 
 cakes, etc., etc., cou'd never appear at all. 
 
 This, however, applies only to hotels furnishing 
 full length bills-of-fare. There are greater numbers 
 of houses, both public and private, where any one of 
 these sweet entrees might suffice for the pastry 
 course, and this is particularly the reason for here 
 describing the charlottes which are oftenest used as 
 puddings 
 
 and its cheapness, make it worth the attention here 
 given to details. 
 
 353. 
 
 Apple Charlotte. 
 
 A LA PARISIENNE. 
 
 A fruit charlotte cannot be "thrown together" 
 and be good. Its excellence, when carefully made, 
 
 Compote of apples, or apples stewed dry and 
 sweet, baked between two layers of buttered bread 
 and glazed with egg and sugar. 
 40 small thin slices of French roHs. 
 
 2 pounds of pared and quartered apples 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 f pound of butter. 
 
 1 or 2 eggs for glaze. 
 
 Nutmeg or cinnamon. 
 
 Stew the apples soft with three-fourths of the su- 
 gar and a pint of water and steam shut in; then 
 mash with a spoon and grate nutmeg in. 
 
 Dip the slices of rolls as lightly as possible in the 
 butter melted in a deep pan — dip both sides without 
 touchingthe salt dregs. Line two bright, three- 
 quart pans with them, bottom and sides, divide the 
 apple in, placing it well around the sides; lay more 
 dipped slices all over the tops slightly pressed into 
 the fruit, and bake the charlottes of a nice toast 
 color, bottom crusts as well as top. Then with a 
 brush wet them over with egg and water; dredge 
 the remaining sugar over and bake ten minutes more 
 to glaze. 
 
 To be dished out of the pans; no sauce needed 
 unless for pudding, when sweet cream is best. 
 
 For a charlotte to be served whole still greater care 
 is needed in baking. Take a deep mould, a six or 
 eight sided cake or pudding mould does. Cut slices 
 of bread to fit— bottom, top and sides. Spread but- 
 ter rather thickly on one side the slices, dip the 
 other side in beaten egg; place them with the butter 
 next the tin, fill the inside with the apple compote; 
 place the cover of bread on top and bake in a mod- 
 erate oven over half an hour. Turn it out carefully 
 on to the dish, glaze over with egg and sugar and 
 the red-hot salamander and pour round it either 
 diluted red jelly or else whipped cream. 
 
 354. Buttered Apples on Toast- 
 
 AMERICAN APPLE CHARLOTTE. 
 
 This can only be made "just right" when extra 
 good, easy-bakin^ apples are at hand, because the 
 raw apples should be done by the time the bread 
 at bottom is browned. Pippins and bellflowers are 
 best. 
 40 thin, square slices of bread. 
 
 2 pounds of pared apples. 
 
 f pound of butter. 
 
 f pound of sugar. 
 
 Cinnamon or nutmeg. 
 
 The slices of bread should be all of one size. Dip 
 
&^ 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 one fide ia melted butter and place them, buttered 
 side do?rn, ia close order in a shallow baking-pan; 
 place lialf an apple or two quarters on each slice and 
 bake brown with repeated bastings with a syrup 
 made cf the sugar, butter and cup of hot water and 
 cinnamon. The apples ought to shine transparently 
 without black edges when done. Dish up with an 
 egg-slice. 
 
 355. Charlotte a la Marialva. 
 
 Named, probably, after a French cathedral town; 
 possib'y a monastery. It is a charlotte of the most 
 elaborate degree, the bread cut in small fancy 
 shapes and placed in patterns, or in fingers lapping 
 edges, on the sides of a mould spread with butter. 
 Apples and apricots, sugar and butter and fruit 
 jelly all stewed down to a paste is used to fi 1. 
 Baked, glazed, and wine sauce served with it. 
 
 The preceding directions and examples apply to 
 
 PEACH CHARLOTTES. 
 PEAR CHARLOTTES. 
 CHARLOTTES OF MIXED FRUITS. 
 
 Almost any kind can be used. The poorest that can 
 be used for such a purpose are the mulberries dyed 
 with logwood, which are now being sold for canned 
 blackberries. Mulberries with their own natural 
 color, when mixed with sour apples, are good 
 enough. 
 
 Now here, in the next, is another knot to be un- 
 tied. Not that the charlotte itself is a knot, else it 
 were better cut than picked apieces, but the name, 
 "friar's omelet," whence comes it ? The clue in this 
 case is fainter than the almost invisible thread which 
 led through the maze to Fair Rosamond's bower. 
 Why should a charlotte, or rather, perhaps a mix- 
 ture of apples be called an omelet, unless, because, 
 it looked like omelet ? And suppose the preceding 
 charlotte a la Marialva came from a monastery and 
 the English cooks made an ap;le mixture as near 
 like it as they could and called it friar's omelet. 
 And suppose the French cooks adopted the English 
 mixture because it was good and called it English 
 apple cake. That is how it seems to have been. 
 There used to be a saying about the longest way 
 round being the shortest way home, and another 
 about going from home to learn the news. Some 
 English names being placed backwards in French 
 have come back to our language as new words, as 
 canteen from tin can; so in French cook books we 
 find that called English apple cake, which in Eng- 
 lish on both siJes of the Atlantic is called friar's 
 omelet. 
 
 Suppose once more that some person out of pa- 
 tience with trying to line his charlotte mould with 
 bread patterns of leaves, flowers, crosses and hearts 
 and diamonds, just crumble the bread fine and 
 
 pressed a blanket like coat of crumbs on to the thick 
 buttered slides of the mould, filled that wilh the fol- 
 lowing mixture and ba'^ed it of a handsome reddish 
 brown, why then you have a very fair conception of 
 the way that many of our good but rough-aud ready 
 American dishes came to be made. 
 
 356. English Sweet Apple Cake 
 
 FRIAR'S OMELET. GATEAU DE POMMES REN- 
 VERS"E. 
 
 A kind of tirabale of apple custard baked with a 
 casing of bread crumbs. 
 
 1 quart of dry stewed apples, or baked apple 
 pulp. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 ^ cupful of cream. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 Nutmeg and cinnamon. 
 
 Bread crumbs, about a quart. 
 
 Custard for sauce. 
 
 Mash the drained apples through a colander, 
 add the butter to it while warm, then the sugar and 
 flavor, and the eggs and creim beaten together. 
 Ppread some softened butter all over the inside of a 
 mould or pudding pan and press on all the fine 
 grated bread crumbs that can be made to stick. 
 Pour in the apple mixture; cover the top with 
 crumbs pressed in; moisten the top with melted but- 
 ter and bake brown, and well set. 
 
 Turn the apple cake carefully upside down out of 
 the mould and serve it either with whipped cream 
 flavored with wiue and sugar, {d la chantilly) or 
 with diluted red fruit jelly [sauce auxfruiti). 
 
 357. 
 
 Individual Charlottes. 
 
 Are best and easiest made with either the friar*s 
 omelet mixture preceding, or the apple custard pud- 
 ding following; use the deepest gem pans; if fluted 
 or otherwise ornamented shapes, so much the better. 
 Brush them over with a brush dipped in soft butter, 
 coat with bread crumbs, fill and bake like the large 
 apple cake. ^\hea done have somt sauce dorSe 
 ready; mix into it a nearly equal amount of thick 
 cream whipped to froth, and pour this around the 
 charlottes Another way is to place a spoonfal of 
 meringue on each one and set the charlottes back in 
 the oven on a baking pan to color. Place two or 
 three red raspberries on top of the meringue. No 
 sauce required. 
 
 358. Apple Puddings Souflles. 
 
 INDIVIDUAL. 
 
 Make either the friar's omelet mixture or the ap- 
 ple custard next following. Instead of baking, stir 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 85 
 
 the mixture over the fire till it becomes thick. Take 
 it oflF and add 4 beaten jolks, ^ cup of brandy, a 
 teaspoonful of lemon extract and the same of ex- 
 tract of cloves; then 6 whites of eggs beaten up firm. 
 Bake in cups, shells or paper cases. If the apple 
 justard be used — it is the richer of the two — observe 
 that it is of double quantity and the added ingredi- 
 ents must be doubled accordingly. 
 
 350. Apple Custard Pudding. 
 A L'AMERICAINE. 
 
 2 quarts of dry stewed apples or baked apple 
 pulp. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 ^ pound of butter. 
 20 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Lemon, nutmeg, or cinnamon flavor. 
 
 Mash the drained apples through a strainer. Mix 
 in the other ingredients. Bake in a bright pan pre- 
 viously buttered. Use as pudding with either 
 sweetened cream or wine sauce. 
 
 Here we have reached a boundary line. One step 
 more would be out of the domains of pudding and 
 over the borders of pie, for the last apple custard 
 with a little milk added makes nice apple cream 
 pie. 
 
 '•Well, thankgoodness, it was not a bread pud- 
 ding, for we are so tired of bread puddings." 
 
 "When did we have any bread puddings ? We 
 have had queen of puddings, plum puddings, baked 
 fruit pudding, lemon pudding, cocoanut pudding, 
 charlottes, and souffles and meringues." 
 
 «'They all have bread in them, more or less, ex- 
 cept the boiled roll puddings, and they are made of 
 biscuit dough." 
 
 "But they all and many more were made with 
 bread, more or less, before our time; and they are 
 none of the rough, unsightly bread crust abom- 
 inations, but delicate compounds of fine, white 
 crumbs." 
 
 "There is no fault to be found with the puddings, 
 but don't you see there's no more bread in the 
 house ?" 
 
 "Oh, well there are many good substitutes when 
 bread cannot be obtained, but you will manage to 
 admit just one more that is made with bread, more or 
 less, both because it is a boiled pudding for a change, 
 and has already once been called by name but never 
 appeared. It is one of the best." 
 
 360. 
 
 Eve's Puddingf. 
 
 A favorite variety of the plum pudding order, 
 light and not too rich. Also called pouding d la 
 Francaise. The pundit who put the receipt in 
 verse was not concerned about the needs of large 
 hotels. 
 
 1 pound of bread crumbs cut fine. 
 
 h pound of chopped suet. 
 
 I pound of seedless raisins, or currants. 
 
 f pound of chopped apples. 
 
 J a nutmeg grated. 
 
 Mix the above together dry; then beat together : 
 
 9 eggs Salt. 
 
 J pound of sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of lemon extract. 
 
 Stir all well together; tie the mixture in two cloths, 
 leaving a little room to swell, and boil without stop- 
 page 4 hours. When eggs are scarce 5 or 6 will do 
 with half a cup of milk added. Butter and sugar 
 sauce is suitable; though one says, '-Adam won't 
 like it without wine and sugar." 
 
 "Such," says Bulwer, 'is the constant habit of 
 young people. They think anything expensive is 
 necessarily good." Bulwer was young himself at 
 that time, and must have known how it was. If the 
 obverse was as invariably the case we should expect 
 to find but few admirers of the following, which is 
 the cheapest pudding made. Certainly ii is not the 
 case in this direction, for we find no difficulty in 
 disposing of large quantities of this pudding of many 
 names. However, it must be properly baked, and 
 ought to be in a brick oven, otherwise it has no 
 goodness at all. The theory of rice pudding is — 
 by the way, perhaps you did not know there was a 
 theory of rice pudding ? Yes, indeed. This is a 
 great day for theories, and there is a pudding theory 
 as well as a nebular theory and an atomic theory ' 
 and an evolution theory; and as there will be unlim- 
 ited time to study the others after we are done with 
 pudding it is evident the pudding theory should 
 stand first. — The rice pudding theory teaches that 
 all the richness is derived from the evaporation and 
 condensation of the milk. As one pint of rice will 
 absorb three pints of milk and no more, the baking 
 has to be so protracted that the pudding is made to 
 contain the condensed richness of six pints of milk, 
 half of it, the watery part being dried out in the 
 oven. As a matter of course the richer the milk and 
 the more cream it contains the better it will be to 
 start with. ' 
 
 Baked Rice and Milk Pudding. Asto:f 
 House Pudding. English Rice 
 Pudding. Plain Rice Pud- 
 ding. Poor Man's 
 Pudding, Etc 
 
 361. 
 
 1 pint of rice. 
 
 1 pint of white sugar. 
 6 pints of milk. 
 
 Ground cinnamon or nutmeg. 
 Very little salt. 
 
 2 ounces of butter, optional. 
 
 Wash the rice in three or four waters and divide 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 it in two pudding pans. Mix the sugar, salt and 
 cinnamon equally with it, then pour in the milk 
 cold. Add the butter if the milk is not rich. Bake 
 in a slow oven 3 or 4 hours. It may be best to use 
 only 5 pints of milk at first, and add the other if 
 the time allows the puddings to boil down dry 
 enough. Scorching on top may be prevented by 
 covering with paper previously greased. Almost 
 any pudding sauce is suitable, and so is pure cream, 
 but for preference, sauce dorSe or golden sauce may 
 be taken; it gives the best appearance to so plain a 
 pudding. 
 
 People who are weary of the sameness of egg- 
 laden and butter-soaked hotel puddings, and who 
 like simple flavors, will appreciate the foregoing 
 plain rice pudding and the following wholesome 
 variations of the same. 
 
 SS2, Bioe and Apple Pudding. 
 
 The plain rice pudding preceding, made with only 
 4 pints of milk and 1 pound of good cooking apples, 
 pared, cored and quartered. 
 
 Drop the quartered apples in the puddings, bake 
 3 or 4 hours and keep covered with buttered paper 
 to prevent scorching, and black edges on the apples. 
 An inch length of stick cinnamon to each pud- 
 ding improves. Cream and sugar, or else hard 
 sauce. 
 363. 
 
 Baked Bice and Raisin Puddingf. 
 
 Same as the last with raisins instead of apples. 
 None of the foregoing rice puddings should ever be 
 stirred while baking. The rice grains should be 
 whole when done. 
 
 The next needs no help of sauce for its appear- 
 ance. It is as rich and delicate as a rice pudding 
 pure and simple can be made. 
 
 So, sonny, you say you have a mother to help, and 
 you have beea trying everywhere and you can't get 
 anything else whatever to do, therefore you want to 
 get aj^b in the kitchen. Now, don't you see that 
 is not at all complimentry to the kitchen ? Hotel 
 keepers have a hard enough time without having to 
 contend with the leavings and castaways of all other 
 occupations and employments. Yet they always 
 want smart, intelligent and industrious boys. You 
 appear to have sense, perhaps you even have sense 
 enough to become a good cook. And you might do 
 worse. You will probably live to see the time when 
 a man of sense and sensibility will not be ashamed 
 in the United States to say he is a hotel cook. And 
 we all want helpers of the right sort. Our good 
 seconds, whose ways and dispositions we know, and 
 who know ours, are continually drifting away from 
 us. They are always wanted to go to the head of 
 
 some other kitchen. They take partnerships in res 
 taurants. They open ice cream saloons, bakeries, 
 railway eating houses, saloons, lunch stands; they 
 go as stewards; and some are lost and never are 
 found. So there is room for intelligent boys like 
 you — if you are intelligent. ?he keeps you clean 
 and decent, doesn't she ? Can you read and write ? 
 Yes. Have you worked in a kitchen before — know 
 a stock boiler from a chopping machine ? Yes, you 
 have worked about a kitchen a little. Good enough ; 
 now go and make me this rice pudding. You can't 
 make a rice pudding ? Oh, yes you can; the finest 
 rice pudding you ever saw; just as good as I can. 
 Take this receipt; hang it on the nail before you; 
 follow it out; you will come out right. But observe 
 there is not a word too much, and every word means 
 something. When it says buttered pans it means 
 you are to butter the pans before you pour the pud- 
 dings in. When it says well washed rice it means 
 you are to sure enough wash the rice — rub it clean 
 in cold water, pick out the specks; pour water on 
 and oflF it till there is no more sign of meal in it It 
 is the meal or flour in rice that burns at the bottom 
 of the saucepan, not the rice alone. When you have 
 made this successfully preserve the receipt. You 
 will not be a cook or pastry cook because that one 
 thing is done perfectly; it will take you five years to 
 learn it a:I, and then there will be just as much more 
 that you will never learn. But if you do some new 
 thing each day and hold on to the knowledge, and 
 observe all that is done around you you will have 
 gained so much over and above your wages. Count 
 it in dollars if you like; one dollar, five dollars; ac- 
 cording to the desirableness of the article you have 
 learned to produce; according to the difficulty of 
 making it which you will have overcome. So in a jear 
 or two you will have a trade better for you than if 
 your daddy had left you a fortune. Now scoot. 
 Don't speak to me anymore till I speak to you. The 
 other boys will show you where to find the rice, 
 milk, sugar, butter, eggs. You will be slow at first. 
 We don't allow youngsters to do guess work. Old 
 hands may guess, but even they can't always hit it, 
 and your ingredients cost money. Afterwards you 
 must learn to work fast if you are going to be a ho- 
 tel cook. I shall know by to-night exactly what you 
 are worth. "For man is man and master of his 
 fate." How goes that song ? I will make that boy 
 learn it if it can ever be found again. 
 
 "Turn, Fortune, turn thy wheel and let it turn. 
 Thy wheel and thee we neitherfear nor hate. 
 
 Our lands are little but our hearts are great, 
 And man is man and master of his fate," 
 
 Or words to that efifect. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 87 
 
 864. Rice Oustard Pudding. 
 
 VANILLA SAUCE. 
 
 2 full quarts of well cooked dry ric«. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ouuces of sugar. 
 
 8 jolks of eggs. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 1 tab'espoonful of lemon extract 
 
 The rice should be already cooked in water and 
 milk. Measure it and while still hot stir in the 
 butter and sugar. Beat the yolks with the mi'k 
 gradually added; stir well into the rice; flavor 
 slightly; pour the pudding into two buttered pans 
 and bake about half an hour. 
 
 To prepare the rice from the first boil 1 pound of 
 well- washed rice in 1 quart of water, add a pinch 
 of salt. When half done add 1 pint of milk and let 
 simmer an hour with the steam shut in. Never stir 
 it and it will not be very apt to burn. 
 
 Any of these puddings lett over can be used for 
 fritters. 
 
 Full directions for making a score or more of good 
 pudding sauces will be found all together, further 
 on. For these richest rice compounds a clear 
 traosparent sauce flavored with vanilla, or else with 
 red wine, will be found most suitable. 
 
 As with the bread custard and the plain rice the 
 reader is advised to note particularly the preceding 
 rice custard, not only to avoid repetition here, 
 which would be a small matter, but because the 
 mystery is all removed from the variations when 
 the basis of all has once been made. 
 
 Carolina Pudding, with Transparent 
 305. Sauce. 
 
 Make the rice custard pudding preceding, and add 
 to it one egg more, and ^ pound each of seedless or 
 seeded raisins, currants and candied orange peel. 
 Flavor with orange extract very lightly. The fruit 
 must be strewn evenly over the top after the pud- 
 ding is in the baking pans, and slightly pressed in 
 with a spoon; else it may all sink to the bottom. 
 
 West Indian Pudding, 
 360. Jelly. 
 
 with Guava 
 
 Make the rice custard pudding, preceding, and 
 add to it 1 whole egg and ^ pound of grated fresh 
 cocoanut. Mix all, and when the pudding is in the 
 pans take 1 pounl of pineapple in thin, small slices 
 and lay over the top, slightly pressing it in. 
 
 The pineapple, if fresh, should be stewed first in 
 a little sugar syrup; then use the syrup to dilute the 
 guava jelly for sauce. 
 
 Bake these puddings no longer than till fairly set 
 
 in the midd'e, as the fruit has a tendency to cause 
 a watery separation of tho eggs if cooked too 
 long. Curacoa diluted a little and made hot is also 
 a good sauce. 
 
 For the same reason that apple charlottes were in- 
 cluded, the following *'sweet entrees' are hera 
 placed in succession; namely, because they are used 
 as puddings on occasion. 
 
 30T. 
 
 Rice Cake; with Ourrant Jelly. 
 
 2 quarts of well cooked dry rice. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 ^ pint of milk (or less, or none if the rice be not 
 dry.) 
 
 Flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. 
 
 Mix all the ingredients together, mashing the rice 
 with the spoon. Smooth it over, about an inch 
 deep, in a buttered pan. Bake in a hot oven to get 
 a quiclj brown on top. Cut out diamonds, squares, 
 or other ceat shapes, and serve with red currant 
 jelly placed tastefully on or about the rice cake. 
 
 Articles like the above ought always be baked in 
 bright tin pans. Iron meat pans, however clean, 
 generally stain the under side and make the cakes 
 uneatable. 
 
 308. Rice Cake, with Fruits. 
 
 Prepare the rice cake of the foregoing receipt; al- 
 so any kind of rich, thick, stewed down fruit, or 
 compote of lemons or oranges. 
 
 Spread the bottoms of two bright pudding pans 
 with butter and press on a coating of bread crumbs; 
 all that will stick. Cover this with the rice cake 
 mixture by spoonfuls, not displacing the crumbs. 
 Spread a thin layer of the compote over that, then 
 rice cake, then compote again, and finish with rice 
 on top. Moisten and smooth over with a little 
 cream. Sift on a little fine bread crumbs from a 
 colander. Bake half an hour. The layers should 
 be no thicker than those of ordinary jelly cake. 
 Turn the cake out when done. Serve neat squares 
 or diamonds with the brown bottom side up and the 
 compote syrup, or any sauce around. 
 
 369. 
 
 We would never trouble about timbales in a book 
 
 of puddings if the word was not a stumbling block 
 in the way. There are timbales of rice and sweet 
 timbales of macaroni, etc., which in effect are orna- 
 mental puddings. The word often appears in bills- 
 of-fare when it means only rice cakes like the pre- 
 ceding kinds. Timbale means kettle drum, and is 
 in allusion to the shape of a pudding in an orna- 
 mental pastry case. Suppose you take some ye^ow 
 nouilles paste and by means of a mould form a shape 
 
88 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTHY COOK, 
 
 like the castle in chess, anil fill that with rice cake 
 and bake it. That is the simplest form. 
 
 SBI'O. Petites Timbales de Riz. 
 
 AUX FRUITS 
 
 Let there be no mystery about these. They are 
 little indiviJual rice cakes, but they caaaot be de- 
 scribed, only suggested, fjr they are but the cook's 
 notions, and are more than chameleon like, they 
 ehange shape as well as color. 
 
 They are of no consequence — on^y passing; fan- 
 cies. They are unlocked for contingencies; unex 
 pected circumstances; dernier resorts; put in to fill 
 up the bill, to decorate and set off the row of little 
 dinner dishes before the guest. There are camaos 
 and there are stage scenes laid on with a whitewash 
 brush; both are'meritorous in their place. When 
 the cook is tired of cuttifn^ out rice or farina or ta- 
 pioca cakes in squares, and dishing up charottes 
 with a spoon, he takes some means of giving to e:ich 
 person an uncut, untouched and more or less deco 
 rated trifle in symmetrical shape. The main com 
 pound for these little rice shapes is already found in 
 the rice cake plain, preceding. A suggestion of va 
 riation is found in the rice cake with fruits. Sup- 
 pose you take muffin rings, brush them inside with 
 butter, coat them with fine grated bread crumbs, 
 fill with rice cake, bake brown and serve a green 
 gage plum stewed in bright syrup, or halt an apri 
 cot, or three red cherries with the thick juice on top. 
 Or, instead of rings, take some handsome stamped 
 gem pans, the deeper and more pyramidal the bet- 
 ter, and on the buttered sides place some shapes cut 
 with your fancy vegetable cutters out of the greenest 
 candied citron, or watermelon rind; or else, instead 
 of bread crumbs, use finely chopped yolks of eggs; 
 or, instead of any of th^^^se, make some nouillps 
 paste — which is flour moistened with yolk of egg, 
 with a little salt and pothing else, and worked to 
 smoothness — and cut.leives, etc., out of that Ttien 
 place rice cake round, over the patterns— a sort of 
 wall or casing— and inside fill with preserved fruit, 
 jam or conserve. After baking these may be turned 
 out, glazed with yolk of egg and milk or sugar, and 
 quickly browned again. Sometimes lit ie rice 
 cakes, not sweetened, are baked in the tiniest gem 
 pans holding scirce a tablespoonfu!, and are served 
 as decorations of entrees, and with fish. 
 
 3 TI. Plain Boiled Rice Pudding. 
 
 The writer has not found occasion to be much 
 concerned about boiled puddings of rice; hotel peo 
 pie who require anything so plain being amply sat- 
 isfied with the rice prepared for a vegetable dish. 
 If, however, the competition of the other restaurant 
 is so severe that one must give good meals for ten, 
 
 or fifteen, or twenty cents, or if there is Chinese 
 help to be fed, a boiled rice pudding is not so bad. 
 Besides, we have Dr. Andrew Combe's "Physiology 
 of Digestion" to prove that it is the easiest of digep 
 tion of all puddings, and therefore commended to 
 dyspeptics. 
 
 Waih a pint of rice; mix a handful or two of 
 either raisins, currants or apples with it, tie up in a 
 cloth with room enough to swell to three pints; put 
 on in cold water and boil about an hour. Syrup or 
 molasses fur s uce. 
 
 If the foregoing is a "poor man's pudding," the 
 next must certainly be his rich relation's. It can 
 be hands me'y >urned out of a handsome mould 
 and the rich custard poured round. It will not be 
 good unless the tapi -ca be thoroughly s a' el as di 
 rected, and may take ^ pint more milk; the re- 
 ceipt is on the safe side for turning out in good 
 shape. 
 
 Steamed Tapioca Puddini?, with Custard 
 S^S. Sauce. 
 
 1 pound of tapioca 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of butter. 
 
 G yolks of eggs. 
 
 8 whole ejgs. Salt. 
 
 1 lemon, juice aad grated rind. 
 
 S'oak the tapioca in most of the milk in a warm 
 place 2 hours. Then boil the remaining mi'k with 
 the salt, sugar and butter; turn iu the s aked tapi- 
 oca, let simmer 15 mi; utes with the steam shut in; 
 ihen belt in tha eggs and lemon. Butter two 
 moulds, put in the mixture, and steam one and one- 
 half hours. 
 
 STEAMED SAGO PUDDINQ. 
 STEAMED GROUND RICE PUDDING. 
 STEAMED FARINA PUDDING. 
 
 These can all be made by the foregoing receipt, 
 but of farina use 2 ounces less, as it absorbs more 
 liquid than the other substances. 
 
 Enough has been said about rice cakes and tim- 
 bales to dismiss the subject, but here is the sam© 
 thing done in tapioca. 
 
 3T4. 
 
 Tapioca Cake, "with Apple Jelly. 
 
 f pound of tipioca. 
 
 3 pints of milk, or milk and water. 
 
 4 ounces ot sugar. 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 10 yolks, or else 3 whole eggs. 
 Orange flavoring. Salt. 
 Soak the tapioca an hour or two in half the milk. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 89 
 
 Boil the rest of the milk with the sugar f>nd salt in 
 it; stir iu the tapioca and let cook gently half an 
 hour. Then beat in the butter, eggs and flavoring 
 and bake like rice cake, an iuch deep. 
 
 375. Tapioca Custard Pudding. 
 
 f pound of tapioca. 
 
 8 pints of milk. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 yolks and 
 
 2 whole eggs, Salt. 
 
 Grated lemon rind or other flavor. 
 
 Sift the dust from tapioca. Sometimes it is bet- 
 ter to wash it, besides, like rice. Soak it in half 
 the milk about two hours in a warm place. Boil the 
 rest of the milk with the sugar in it — the sugar pre- 
 vents burning at bottom — cook the soaked tapioca 
 in it about half an hour. Beat the eggs, mix all to- 
 gether ani bake only till the puddings are just set 
 in the middle, lest the custard in it curdle and sep- 
 arate instead of being creamy rich. Any hot, clear, 
 transparent sauce or lemon eyiup suits, also brandy 
 and wine sauces. This pudding is often served coM 
 with sweetened cream. Also may be cut cold in 
 shapes, egged, breaded, and fried as fritters. 
 
 Does it seem like extravagance to call for so many 
 yolks of eggs for puddings ? Is is not. What 
 might be so regarded in private house work is really 
 the greatest economy in hotels where each fresh 
 meal is required to be as good as the one that pre- 
 ceded it, and the whites of eggs left over are needed 
 in a hundred ways. The whites do no more good in 
 puddings than so much flour or starch. The yo!ks 
 give the richness and fine color. Probably at an- 
 other time we shall have a talk about silver cakes, 
 snow cakes and a dozen others made with white of 
 eggs, white cocoanut pies, white whips and floats, 
 and the meringues must not be forgot. 
 
 3 TO. Tapioca Custard Meringue. 
 
 Make the tapioca pudding preceding. When 
 baked spread over the top some lemon conserve or 
 orange marmalade. Beat whatever whites are left 
 over to a froth; add sugar, about an ounce to each 
 white, lightly stirred in, and vanilla flavor. Make 
 the top of the pudding baking-hot again, then spread 
 on the meringue and dry-bal e. 
 
 3TT, Farina Custard Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 7 ounces of farina. 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 yolks, or else 5 whole eggs. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it and a pinch of 
 
 salt. Sprinkle in the farina dry, beating all tna 
 while with the large eggwhip to avoid having; 
 lumps in it, as if making mush. Let the farina cook 
 slowly half an hour or more Farina kettles net 
 needed when there is sugar in the mixture, and set 
 at the back of the range. Then mix in the butter 
 and beaten eggs. Bake in two buttered pans about 
 20 minutes. 
 
 3Y8. 
 
 Farina Cake, with Quince Jelly. 
 
 Make same as tapioca cake; an ounce less farina 
 and no soaking needed. 
 
 Farina Cake, with Fruit, Rum Sauce. 
 
 Raisins, currants and citron baked in the farina 
 cake. Served with thick syrup containing rum. 
 Small timbales on the same plan. 
 
 3T». 
 
 SAGO PUDDINGS. 
 SAGO CAKES. 
 
 Can be made by preceding receipt for tapioca, Ect. 
 ter to write them out if to be used for sago. 
 
 380, 
 
 "Now, Jerry, the bill of fare — what pudding to- 
 day ?" 
 
 "1 thought I would give you steamed p:und if that 
 will suit.'' 
 
 "Will suit first rate if you don't fail with it." 
 
 "Fail ? — fail ? — there's no such word as fail I" 
 * * * 
 
 "Well, Jerry, it is time to dish up ihe puddings. 
 How are they ? Look at them." 
 
 "Failed failed — by the holypoker I" 
 
 "Now, Jerry, this is too much for human nature. 
 There is no need to fail with steamed cake-puddings. 
 There is a reason for everything, and pound pud- 
 ding fails only because either there is too much 
 sugar in the mixture or else because it does not get 
 done enough. Now your mixture is all light but 
 your puddings are not done. There is a white, 
 light layer on top where the steam was hottest, but 
 all the rest is gum and sugar. Steamed sponge 
 puddings are the easiest to cook; they take from an 
 hour and a quarter upwards according to size. 
 Pound puddings come next, but they must have near 
 two hours, unless very small. Steamed fruit pud- 
 dings take much longer. If you go to a high point 
 in the mountains your puddings need to steam 
 longer still. And remember the water below must 
 never stop boiling, and time counte nothing if you 
 have no steam up." 
 
 Now who would have thought there was another 
 pudding of bread, more or less, lurking back here ? 
 gorry they are so numerous, but this is a very good 
 one and steamed puddings are in demand. 
 
eo 
 
 THB AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 381. Steamed Bread Puddinir. 
 
 1 J pounds of white bread crumbs. 
 
 1^ pound of sugar. 
 
 I pound of butter. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 4 whole eggs and 
 
 8 yolks. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Lemon rind or extract. 
 
 Mix the bread crumbs and sugar together. Put 
 the butter in the milk and boil them. Pour the 
 boiling milk and butter over the bread and let stand 
 awhile to steep. Beat the eggs and yolks together 
 and mix them in; the flavoring, baking powder, then 
 beat all together 2 or 3 minutes. Steam an hour or 
 little longer in two buttered mou'ds. Serve with 
 hard sauce, meringue sauce, butter sauce or maple 
 syrup. Better write it a finer name on the bill-of- 
 fare. 
 
 38;S. Steamed Sponge Pudding. 
 
 WINE OR BRANDY SAUCE. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 14 ounces of finest flour. 
 
 Vanilla flavor, about two teaspoonfuls. 
 
 Beat the sugar and eggs together in a kettle half 
 an hour by the clock. You can't time it by the arm 
 ache, as ten minutes seems half an hour that way. 
 Have the ingredients all cold and beat in a cool 
 place. When the time is up the kettle will be half 
 full of a foamy batter. Then stir in the flour in 
 portions. Do not beat but stir round till the flour 
 is pretty well mingled and out of sight. Add the 
 vanilla extiact. To be perfect all sponge cake ar 
 tides must be cooked as soon as the batter is fin- 
 ished. Steam it in pudding moulds, jelly moulds, 
 melon moulds or any kind you like — no matter 
 about lids — about an hour and a half. 
 
 Whenever any of these cake mixture puddings 
 seem to be heavy or sticky, provided the fault is not 
 in the steaming, they may be corrected next time 
 by using a .trifle less sugar. At great aUitudes 
 the sugar has to be considerably less, and newly ar- 
 rived pastry cooks are often "thrown" through not 
 understanding or being willing to believe it. 
 
 383, Steamed Pound Pudding. 
 
 BRANDY, WINE OR CURACOA SAUCE. 
 
 f pound of white sugar. 
 I pound of fresh butter. 
 10 eggs. 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar together by warming 
 and beating. Beat in the eggs, one or two at a time, 
 
 then the flour in small portions. To beat the mix 
 ture after flour is all in makes the pudding fin« 
 grained and whiter, but not so light. Don't beat it 
 much. Steam in fancy tall moulds if to go to table 
 whole; to be dished up in slices any sort of cake or 
 jelly moulds suit. 
 
 These puddings need to be put on in good tight 
 steamers when the water is already boiling, anl be 
 kept steaming 1| hours, or longer. 
 
 Pretty name, isn't it ? the next, sultana pudding. 
 It is not going to be told here how it compares in 
 goodness with the queen pudding which ve had 
 away back, because a comparison between a queen 
 and a sultana would be odious. However, this is a 
 white rose. 
 
 384. 
 
 Sultana Pudding. 
 
 RED WINE SAUCE. 
 
 ^ pound of granulated sugar. 
 
 ^ pound of fresh butter. 
 
 ^ pound of white of eggs (9 whites). 
 
 ^ cupful of milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 ^ cup of brandy. 
 
 1 pound of sultana raisins. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar together as for pound 
 cake. Add the whites same way — not previously 
 beaten. Then mix in the baking powder, after that 
 the flour, milt , brandy, raisins. Steam in moulds 
 from 1^ to 2 hours. The wine sauce served with 
 this pudding should have a lemon cut up in it. 
 Raspberry vinegar is an excellent sauce for puddings 
 of the above description. 
 
 385. 
 
 Steamed Ooccanut Pudding. 
 
 WITH ORANGE JELLY. 
 
 The same mixture as the preceding with ^ pound 
 of cocoanut and some lemon extract instead of rais- 
 ins and brandy. Almonds, citron, cherries and 
 other fruits can be used in like manner. 
 
 The same useful mixture also makes a good white 
 cake, white raisin cake, etc. 
 
 There is something almost apalling in the vaulting 
 ambition ofthese cooks when they set themselves to 
 naming puddings. How blest, then, is our lot, 
 that for the purposes of this writing we are without 
 the bounds of Great Britain and of Canada, other- 
 wise we, the reader and the scribe, should inevitably 
 encounter and have to pay attentions t ), let us see — 
 "Her Majesty's pudding,'' "Empress Josephine's 
 pudding," "Queen Mab's pudding " 
 
 This last is cosmopolitan, however, and is a nice 
 enough little pudding, but too fairy like to be eaten 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 91 
 
 wit-h a knife and fork. There is good reason fo 
 believing that it is not a Spenserite at all, but a 
 tawny Italian cream pretending to come accredited 
 from 
 
 "The court of Mab and of the faery king." 
 Then there would be "Princess Louise's pudding," 
 "Beatrice pudding," and Marie Stuart's and Sir 
 Watkins'. Besides, there would be shadows in the 
 distance of the illustrious Lord Dundreary's pud- 
 ding and the honorable Earl of Flaxton's. So every 
 cloud has its silver lining. We might be worse off. 
 As it is, we already have the queen rose of the rose 
 bud gar — I mean we already have the "queen of pud- 
 dings" and the Sultana Scheherezade's fa v — atleast, 
 that is, we have a very white sultaoa raisin pudding 
 with carmine chee — that is to say, with carmine col- 
 ored sauce; we have the king pudding that rules the 
 British roost, laurel crowned, with all his fierce snap- 
 dragon flames around him; the socialist Jack Cade of 
 puddings is coming on his way, and how do we know 
 but that to meet and dispute with gi'eat Haggis, the 
 highland chief, there will arise from our steaming 
 cauldron a stalwart Tuscarora chief, in a yellow 
 mantle, with silk and tassel, just as be won over 
 his Minnehaha long ago, whatever her name may 
 have been then. Meantime make way for the great; 
 here comes imperial pudding. It is still a question 
 whether this should be regarded as a 1' imperial or 
 a r imperiale, but as pudding is masculine in 
 French probably it is imperial. No doubt but in 
 this case the empress h id it made to suit the empe- 
 ror, and not to suit herself, which makes it all the 
 more remarkable. 
 
 380. Imperial Steamed Puddingr. 
 
 14 ounces of butter. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 11 eggs. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 Lemon and nutmeg extracts. 
 
 I pound of almonds. 
 
 i^ pound of citron. 
 
 ^ pound of raisics. 
 
 Mix the former ingredients as if for pound cake. 
 Sca'd, peel and chop the almonds, cut the citron in 
 sbreds and take the seeds out of the raisins. Before 
 adding the fruit to the cake mixture dust it well 
 with 2 ounces more flour. 
 
 Steam in ornamental moulds about 2 J hours Lem 
 on, brandy, wine, meringue or sabayon sauce. 
 
 Steamed Fruit Pudding. 
 38T. Pudding. 
 
 Pound Fruit 
 
 14 ounces of butter. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 11 eggs. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of mixed ground spioes. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 ^ cup of brandy. 
 
 1 pound of raisins. 
 
 1 pound of currants. 
 
 ^ pounl of citron. 
 
 The first four articles are to be mixed first, as us- 
 ual for cake, then the others added, not forgetting 
 to dust the fruit well wi'h flour. 
 
 It is one cf the most satisfactory puddings to make 
 for hotel use; being reaUy a good plum pudding to 
 replace the boiled, which requires twice as much 
 time, Steam these fully 3 hour?; longer if in large 
 moulds. 
 
 388. 
 
 Individual Steamed Puddicgs. 
 
 Steam any of the foregoing varieties, and any oth- 
 er kinds made of cake mixtures in eg? cups. They 
 rise rounded on top and do not fall like so.ifiles. 
 From 30 minutes to one hour is required for steam- 
 ing, according to the lind, sponge puddings being 
 soonest done. In restaurants they are commonly 
 served in the cups with sauce in a little pitcher 
 separate; but may be turned out and served in 
 saucers as well. 
 
 389. Steamed Cabinet Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of slices of cake. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 ^ pound of citron shred fine. 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 8 eggs. 
 
 ^ cupful of red currant jelly. 
 
 Sponge cake is best. A 2 quart milk pan will 
 measure the slices. 
 
 Use shallow pudding moulds having lids. Stick 
 the shreds of citron around the insides on a coating 
 of butter. Spread one side of the cake slices very 
 fhinly with butter, the other side with jelly, and 
 pile them in «hc mou'ds, not to fit tight. Beat the 
 milk and eg^s together — no sugar needed— pour 
 over the cake; when absorbed fill up again, fteam 
 1^ hours. Turn the puddings out of the mouldsand 
 serve whether who^e (r in slices with either merin* 
 gue sauce or sauce ecumante poured over. 
 
 3»0. 
 
 Individual Cabinet Puddings 
 
 The same ingredients and amounts as the preced- 
 ing. Cut the slices of cake wiih a small round, oc- 
 tagonal or scalloped cutter, spread them with but. 
 ter and jelly and pile them in custard cups. Fill 
 with the mixed eggs and milk and refill when the 
 first is soaked in Steam half au hour with a clo h 
 over the s' earner under the lid to prevent diopping 
 of water. Place a spoonfu! of meringue on top of 
 each one when they are turned out of the cups, and 
 brown them slightly with a red hot salamander or 
 shovel held over. 
 
92 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTSY COOK. 
 
 391 , Steamed Brandy Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of slices of cake. 
 
 ^ pint of braody. 
 
 ^ pint of finely chopped, seedless raisins. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 J pints of milk. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 J pound of almonds, blanched and split. 
 
 Line the moulds with the split almonds stuck to a 
 thin coating of butter. Spread the miuced raisins 
 upon the slices of cake; fill up the moulds, sprink- 
 ling in the brandy by spoonfuls, and the rest of the 
 butter in bits. Then beat the eggs and milk together, 
 pour in all the moulds will hold and the cake will 
 absorb. Steam 1| hours. 
 
 SOS. 
 
 Individual Macaroon Puddings. 
 
 Have as many egg or custard cups as there will 
 probably be orders, about 40, and brush the insides 
 with melted butter. PI ice in the bottom of each a small 
 round sponge drop. Cover that with a thin layer of 
 finely chopped raisins; ont hat place a maciroon and 
 in that way fill the cup. The caVes must be sp'it if 
 not thin. Make a rich cus'ard with 7 eggs beaten 
 n a quart of thin cream and 2 ounces of sugar. 
 Fill in with a spoon all the cakes will absorb. Steam 
 half an hour. Serve in the cups with whipped 
 cream, sweetened and flavored, piled on top. 
 
 SOS. 
 
 Pineapple Puddings Souffles. 
 
 2 pounds of pineapple. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of best butter. 
 
 ^ pint, scant, of the pineapple juice. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 16 eggs. 
 
 Grate the pineapple if fresh, if canned mash fine 
 as possible adding the sugar at last to assist in re- 
 ducing it to pulp. Then stir the pulp isith the 
 sugar and butter in it over the fire. Mix the starch 
 with the juice and add to the fruit, and let it thick- 
 en, after which add 8 yolks ot eggs, beat them in 
 and let all cook 5 to 10 minutes longer, and then 
 set the mixture away to cool. 
 
 Then beat the remaining 8 yolks in a bowl with a 
 Dover egg beater. Whip the 16 whites to a firm 
 froth that will not fall out of the bowl upside down, 
 and stir in first the yolks and then the whites, 
 lightly and without beating the mixture at all. 
 Bake as soon as made in about 40 custard cups, 
 buttered, or in silver scallops or shells, or else in 
 paper cases. Ten minutes in a moderate oven is 
 the time required to bake. Dredge powdered 
 sugar on top before removing quite from the oven. 
 
 The preceding receipt will answer as well for sev 
 eral other varieties as if a column or two of repetitions 
 
 were written. Pears, quinces, apples, bananas, per- 
 haps other dry fruits may be used as well as pine- 
 apple. The starch is to counteract the juiciness; 
 with certain mealy kinds of apples it would not be 
 needed. Bread or cracker crumbs have the same 
 effect. 8 yolks are cooked in the mix'ure and 8 
 well beaten are added raw. The whites must be 
 beaten quite firm, and a wire whisk is the best to use 
 for that purpose. The mixture when finished is as 
 light and foamy as sponge cake batter. It rises and 
 bakes cream color in the cups or cases Paper casts 
 should be buttered icside and half baked befoie be- 
 ing filled, and should be filled to the top to lo^jk 
 well when done. Caiefully wipe the cut sides of 
 cups before baking. These little fruit puff pud- 
 dings may be liked better with the addition of plain, 
 thick cream for sauce. Some people would add nut- 
 meg or cinnamon cr bratidy to the composition of 
 apple puffs. Any of these mixtures left over will do 
 to fill tarts in patty pans. These are no better than 
 other puddings. Ihey are a^l good. 
 
 S04. 
 
 Pineapple Sponge Puddings. 
 
 INDIVIDUAL. 
 
 Make the precedir.g pineapple souffle mixture in 
 all respects as directed, and bake in deep tin gem 
 pans or dariole moulds well buttered. Bake ten or 
 fifteen minutes, keep hot, light and spongy as possi- 
 ble without drying them. Take out wi h a small 
 knife and dish up in saucers with cream sauce. 
 
 There need be nothing wasted. The two forego- 
 ing compositions and the one to follow all make nice 
 cream pies if diluted with a pint of milk, or with a 
 quart of milk and 2 eggs. 
 
 S05. Lemon Sponge Pudding 
 
 A SOUFFLE TO BE SERVED WHOLE. 
 
 2 pounds of grated ripe apples. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 lemons, grated rind of all, juice of 2. 
 
 ^ cup of milk. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch or flour. 
 16 eggs. 
 
 Make according to directions for the pineapple 
 souffles. Bake in a silver dish or mould that will 
 hoM 3 quarts Pin a band of buttered paper around 
 the moull to make it higher. Fill with the lemon 
 sponge m'xture and bake about half an hour. 
 Dredge vanilla flavored sugar on top in the oven. 
 Take off" the paper just before sending to the table. 
 Sauce doree, or butter sauce with nutmeg or cream. 
 It can of course be baked in individual style as well 
 aa the others. 
 
THE AMEBIOAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 In old times, a -very long while ago, there lived a 
 race of hotel cooks who ran in such a very little 
 narrow rut, and had such very small resources in 
 their trade that when they had made about three 
 diflFerent puddings they were at their wit's end, and 
 used to have to butt their heads against the wall to 
 shake up their memories, so they would know what 
 on earth to make next. Then they would recollect 
 something to make which required almonds, raisins 
 and citron; but when they ran to the hotel store- 
 room they found none of those articles in stock. 
 Then they had to butt their heads against the wall 
 again harder, till they could think of something else, 
 and that would require apples. But the store room 
 would be bare of apples also. And then they had 
 to go and find a harder place in the wall and butt 
 their heads against it harder and longer every time. 
 That was in the dark ages. What charity it would 
 have been, and what suffering it would have pre- 
 vented if some person had stood up and told them 
 what they might do in the case of a short store- 
 room. How if they had no bread they could use 
 cake; if they had no yolks of eggs they could make 
 a pudding of the whites; if they had no eggs at all 
 nor milk they could do just as well with a pudding 
 that would be ruined if even milk or eggs came 
 near it; and if they had no pineapples they could do 
 Tery well indeed with pumpkins. 
 
 Pumpkin pudding must be older than pumpkin 
 pie, because pumpkin pie is pumpkin pudding over 
 the water. The first appearance of pumpkin in his- 
 tory is in the story of a young person named Cin 
 derella, who, finding her fine coach was changed 
 again into nothing but a hateful pumpkin that came 
 rolling up to the door, felt vexed, and thought she 
 would make a pudding of it. 
 
 300. 
 
 New England Pumpkin Pudding. 
 
 3 pounds of dry stewed pumpkin. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar or maple syrup. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 pint of cream. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 ^ a nutmeg grated. 
 
 ^ teaspoonful of grated cinnamon. 
 
 Steam the pumpkin and mash the required amount 
 through a colander, as dry as possible. It is gener- 
 ally well worth while to stew down the pumpkin 
 with the sugar and butter in — which prevents burn- 
 ing — till it has become thick and transparent. Then 
 add the cream and eggs well beaten together, and the 
 spices. Bake in two buttered pudding pans about 
 half an hour. Is best when just done, but good 
 either hot or cold. Brandy, rum or wine are some- 
 times mixed in; but not necessary. 
 
 Squash pudding can be made by the foregoing re- 
 ceipt. Once and again I made the following for a 
 
 crowd of passengers aground on a steamboat up tbr 
 Arkansas, and they were glad 1 could. 
 
 39T. 
 
 Baked Millet Seed Pudding. 
 
 1 ^ pounds of millet seed. 
 
 2 quarts of milk and water. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 5 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 1 quart more milk to mix up. 
 
 Nutmeg flavor. 
 
 Wash the millet seed and let it cook at the back 
 of the range about 3 hours, in the 2 quarts of milk 
 and water; Then mash it a little and mix in the 
 rest of the ingredients. Raisins, currants, etc., 
 may be added. The preceding is a trifle richer in 
 eggs than the steamboat pudding was. Syrup for 
 sauce. 
 
 398. Baked Yam Pudding. 
 
 Sweet potatoes will do, but the large yams grown 
 in the sandy soils of Louisiana and Texas are better 
 for mealiness, and have less of the potato flavor. 
 1^- pounds of potato. 
 
 I pound of fresh butter. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 12 eggs. 
 
 I pint of brandy. 
 
 ^ pint of sherry. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the yams or sweet potatoes after paring, in 
 salted water, and mash the required amount of dry 
 puree through a colander. Mix in the butter whi'e 
 still warm, then the sugar, liquorand vanilla. Sep- 
 arate the eggs, beat the yolks into the mixture, and 
 the whites after whipping to a firm froth. Bake in 
 buttered pans about half an hour. Lemon syrup 
 or wine or brandy sauce. 
 
 Common potatoes that are very good and mealy 
 can be used in the preceding manner, with more 
 sugar and less wine. 
 
 399. Steamed Yam Pudding. 
 
 1 pound of potato, 
 ^ pound of butter. 
 
 2 ounces of flour. 
 
 3 ounces of sugar. 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 4 whites. 
 
 J cup of brandy. 
 
 Vanilla flavoring. 
 
 Pare and boil the yam or sweet potatoes in salted 
 water. iVJash the required amount through a 
 strainer. Add all the ingredients except the whites, 
 beat well, whip the whites to a froth and stir in 
 
94 
 
 THE AMEBICAN PASTRV COOK. 
 
 gently. Steam in two small moulds 1 hour. Lemon 
 syrup sauce. 
 400. 
 
 Baked Cracked Wheat Puddingr. 
 
 2 heaping quarts of cracked wheat, already well 
 cooked and dry. 
 
 6 ounces of butter, 
 i^ pound of sugar. 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 
 6 eggs (or 8 yolks). 
 
 Cinnamon extract or grated nutmeg. 
 
 The cracked wheat must be dry, else use a pint 
 less milk. Thoroughly mix all, the butter first 
 while the wheat is hot. Bake in two buttered pans 
 about half an hour. Vanilla transparent sauce or 
 almost any other kind. 
 
 401. 
 
 Brown Cracked Wheat Pudding". West 
 Point Pudding. Graham Pudding. 
 
 2 heaping quarts of cracked wheat mush. 
 
 ^ pound of molasses (a small cup). 
 
 6 ounces of butter or chopped suet. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 li^ pints of milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of ground cinnamon. 
 
 ^ pound of raisins. 
 
 .Mix and beat all the ingredients together, except 
 raisins, the beaten eggs to be added last Strew the 
 raisins on top in the pans; they sink if stirred in. 
 Bake an hour. Maple syrup with butter for sauce. 
 
 One large pint of cracked wheat raw will ma^e 
 the above amount. The mush is expected to be dry, 
 else use less milk or more eggs. The pudding has 
 to be apparently quite fluid when put in the oven 
 but comes out firm enough. When either of the pre 
 ceding puddings are to be made, extra wheat should 
 be put on for the breakfast mush, to secure the 
 benefit of the three hours cooking. When the mush 
 happens to be cold, mash it with the milk made hot, 
 so as to have no lumps. Those are favorite pud- 
 dings and worth attention. 
 
 Speaking'of those titled personages brings to mind 
 the Marchioness. Dickens' Marchioness and Dick 
 Swiveller. We have particular business with Dick 
 Swiveller, for he must have been the author and 
 originator of the word duflF, as applied to pudding 
 Else whence comes duflF ? It is a word severely let 
 alone by many people under the impression that it 
 is slang; but slang is evanescent, this word is stable 
 and permanent. It cannot be even a vulgarism, for 
 it permeates all through H. B. M's. most respect 
 able army and navy as well as the U. S's. Mid- 
 shipman Easy undoubtedly used the word duflf for 
 pudding, and the entire crew of H M. S, Pinafore 
 follow the same practice. It is simply a cockney- 
 ism, and cockneyisms extend all over the world. So 
 
 the Greenwich pensioners and the Chelsea pension- 
 ers; the Woolwich dock yard hands; the sailors on 
 the high seas; the blue-coat children of charity 
 marching down the streets and thoroughfares which 
 Dickens has made familiar, all have their duflf days 
 — suet duflf, currant duflf, plain duflf, plum duflf 
 Great days are the days marked by pluoi duflf ! But 
 they are not all. Thous nds of fiictory operatives, 
 thousands of railroad constructors of British, Cana- 
 dian, Australian and American railways all own a 
 loving allegiance to King Duflf ! Now who will pre 
 sume to laugh at Duflf, with such a followiag, a new 
 Jack Cade though he may be? We shall do far bet- 
 ter to discuss his merits, as the following pages are 
 intended, not only Duflf proper but his family and 
 followers. But being but a new-comer, compara- 
 tively, taking the place of old pudding, whence 
 came the word. Did not some small wit, such as we 
 see in Thackeray's barrooms in the Newcomes, pre. 
 tending the pudding was not cooked enough, call 
 for more dough ? And did not another smallwit 
 say if e n o-u g-h spelt enuflf, d-o-u-g-h spelt duflf? 
 and they had had enuflf duflf. But this would never 
 have gone abroad if Dick SwiveUer had not been 
 there. He was a little stage struck and very popu- 
 lar at his boarding house. He had taken the Mar* 
 chioness to the theatre the night before, and on that 
 day they took a sumptuous dinner at a London cheap 
 boarding house. So when it came to calling for the 
 pudding he remembered the smallwits and shouted 
 to the waiter 
 
 "Lay on, Mack— Duflf, and dumb be he that first 
 cries, hold, enough !" 
 
 Poor Dick ! he is gone now. But duflf is all over 
 the world. In the copper mines of Lake Superior, 
 and in the carbonate mines of the Rocky Mountains, 
 they call for duflf as glib'y as on board the Alaska 
 whalers; and in all those places all our fine pud 
 dings would be called duflf just the same 
 
 Infantine pudd'n; feminine pudding; masculine 
 duflf. 
 
 But 
 
 •'Quantum suf 
 Ficit of duflf." 
 
 Yet here he comes. Shake him heartily. He is 
 no popinjay "perfumed like a milliner," with flum- 
 meries, frills and furbelows. He is an athlete in 
 athletic garb; not now in fighting trim, but mellow 
 with doing good; his countenance shining and his 
 sides shaking with fatness. Is he rough and plain? 
 But think how he goes into the convalescent wards; 
 the workhouses; the almshouses, the veteran re. 
 treats, the charity scho^-ls, the penitentiaries, the 
 very hulks, and they all smile to see him come. 
 And what might not happen in barracks army and 
 navy training scl'ools in camp and on the sea, were 
 the regular weekly visits of this potentate arbitrarily 
 forbidden ? Athlete, did we say ? Why, bless u8, 
 
THE AMEBICAN FASTB7 COOK. 
 
 96 
 
 •'things are not what they seem;" how do we know 
 but he is an Atlas, and on Lis shoulders he is bear 
 ing up empires ? 
 
 If you had not been forewarned to treat him 
 knightly, you might not have suspected that this 
 following is King Duff. 
 
 408. Plain Boiled Suet Pudding. 
 
 '2 pounds of flour. 
 
 1 pound of suet. 
 
 IJ pints of water. 
 
 A large teaspoonful of salt. • 
 
 Chop the suet, not too fine, and rub it into the flour. 
 Mix with the water. It makes a soft dough. Beat 
 it thoroughly with a spoon. Put it in a conical or fun- 
 nel-shaped pudding bag, previously wetted and 
 floured, and boil about three hours. The water 
 should be boiling when the pudding is put in and 
 not allowed to stop. The suet makes the pudding 
 quite light and rich. Eat with butter and syrup. 
 
 40S. 
 
 Currant Suet Roll, 
 
 IJ pounds of flour. 
 
 1 pound of chopped suet. 
 
 1 pound of currants or raisins. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Mix altogether. Make the dough into two long 
 rolls, solid, tie up in cloths and boil two hours. The 
 softer the dough can be to be, handled at all, the 
 lighter the pudding will be. 
 
 404. English Suet Pudding. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 f pound of chopped suet. 
 
 1 pound of white sugar. 
 
 1 pound of either raisins or currants. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Mix the above together dry, then add 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 A small teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Stir all thoroughly together. Boil in pudding 
 bags 4 hours. 
 
 More eggs in this pudding injures it. Can be 
 made without any. Butter and sugar, cream sauce, 
 or syrup, or any kind of pudding sauce suits. 
 
 405. Boiled Cinnamon Pudding. 
 
 A considerable variation of the preceding pudding 
 is made by adding to it 1 heaping teaspoonful of 
 ground cinnamon — makes it of a pinkish color. 
 Ground ginger may be used in the same way. Give 
 all these puddings room to swell and become light 
 when tying the pudding bag. 
 
 Jack Cade Duff's relatives moving in the highest so- 
 ciety, and presently they will be found next of kin 
 to old plum pudding himself. 
 
 40G. Boiled Spice Pudding. 
 
 WITH RUM SAUCE. 
 
 Not a half dozen degrees removed and we find 
 
 A brown suet pudding with molasses and spices. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 f pound of chopped suet. 
 
 1 pound of molasses. 
 
 1 pound of raisins. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 
 
 1 smaU teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 Mingle the dry articles together first, then the 
 fluids poured in the middle, stir up. Boil 4 hours 
 or longer. Transparent sauce with rum, brandy or 
 wine. 
 
 The next is a flaxen blonde, that will dispute for 
 supremacy with the highest. 
 
 40t. 
 
 Boiled Lemon Pudding. English. 
 
 A lemon suet pudding, pale yellow, rich. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 1 pound of suet chopped fine. 
 
 1 pound of white bread crumbs. 
 
 I2 pound of white sugar. 
 
 4 lemons. 
 
 4 eggs. 
 2 pints of milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 1 level teaspoonful of soda. 
 
 Make the bread crumbs fine either by grating or 
 jutting in thinnest slices and squares across. Mix 
 all the dry articles together except sod i and saH, 
 which dissolve in the milk. Grate the lemon rinds in. 
 Mix up with the milk and eggs. Squeeze in the 
 lemon juice at last. Tie up in 2 pudding c'otbs, 
 wetted and floured, and boil 3 hours. Hard sauce 
 cream sauce, golden sauce or wine. 
 
 The missing link in this evolution of puddings 
 from duff to English plum is Eve's pudding, which 
 can be found easily some distance back, and thence 
 back to the place of beginning at plum pudding 
 corner. 
 
 Now if it were right and proper or even allowable 
 to base an hypothesis upon pudding, we should say 
 that the great mistake of. Bulwer's life was in wish- 
 ing that his countrymen were Frenchmen and in 
 keeping them constantly remin led of his wish; and 
 the great mistake of Dickens' life was in sneering at 
 Americans fur not being English Dickens was for- 
 given because of his world-wide Anglo-Saxonism; 
 
96 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Bulwer retains his hold only by sheer strength; 
 through the polish and exact fit of his work, not 
 through love or indulgence Dickens was English 
 even to the chops and tomato sauce of Pickwick and 
 all the little bread and cheese and kisses repasts of his 
 people. Bulwer sneered at the national Yorkshire 
 pudding, and blackberry pudding, and boiled veal, 
 and he is not popular. Hotel keepers are mindful 
 of the dread warning. When all nations and peo- 
 ples shall t|tye come to think alike and eat alike, 
 then the i^»ims of the universal peace society will 
 be realized and there will be an universal language. 
 In the meantime English inn keepers go on provid- 
 ing roast beef with Yorkshire pudding; pease pud- 
 ding; boiled apple dumplings and tea and toast; and 
 American hotel keepers doing business for profit 
 keep up the supply of ham and eggs, oyster soup, 
 turkey with cranberry sauce, pumpkin pie and 
 mince pie, and cofiFee and Parker House rolls All 
 easy enough, and no need of stroking the fur the 
 wrong way, 
 
 408. Yorkshire Pudding. 
 
 f pound of flour. 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 
 2 ounces of butter, melted. 
 ^ 6 eggs. Salt. 
 
 ^ teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Have the milk not too cold, else it sets the butter. 
 Mix the flour with it by degrees, free from lumps. 
 Add butter, salt, powder, the eggs well beaten and 
 beat up all thoroughly. Butter a baking pan and 
 make it warm in the oven. Pour in the batter less 
 than an inch in depth. Bake 15 minutes, or till 
 lightly browned. "When the pudding is made with 
 water instead of milk add a spoonful of golden syrup 
 to cause it to brown quickly. If made without the 
 butter it will puff up at the sides, but soon falls and 
 becomes tough. 
 
 On the twentieth day of August, eighteen hun- 
 dred and fifty-nine, in the heighth of the Pike's 
 Peak gold excitement in this country, Yorkshire 
 pudding was served for dioner in the palace of 
 Prince Frederick William of Prussia. It is best to 
 be chronologically particular in noting these histo 
 rical events, and this we know was a fact, for we 
 have the printed menu with the royal crown and 
 the date upon it, just as we have another, showing 
 that on the 6th day of July, 1868, His serene High- 
 ness, the Sultan of Turkey, entertained Prince Je 
 rome Bonaparte, where was served : 
 
 Truffle omelet; poissons frits\ (doesn't say what 
 kind of fried fish, but doubtless from the Bosphorus.) 
 courgea farcies; (stufi'ed Jonah's gourds); beurek, 
 (wasn't that nice?) bi/tecks aux pommes; (the potatoss 
 were a la' parisienne, of course); haricots verts; 
 
 (those ubiqutous snap beans !) guephte; (don't you 
 wish you had some ?) gelee au marasquin; visnali; 
 ekmek. That caps the climax! Though it is not all 
 the biil-of fare, only about two thirds 
 
 However, we were trying to say that while we 
 know by the documents that Yorkshire pudding was 
 served at the palace as stated, the other matter 
 which we know quite as well, yet cannoc demon- 
 strate, is that the cooks there separated the eggs and 
 made the pudding magiificent by beating the whiies 
 to a firm froth and stirring them in immediately 
 before baking. This is the way the line reads : 
 
 "Roast beef a TAnglaise— York-Pudding '' And 
 it is preserved in the "^cuisine classique.*' 
 
 But it is not the Yorkshire pudding they long for 
 so much. On these cruel cold days, when even the 
 wild animals hedge up close to the cosy settlements 
 and the birds find wondrous attractions about the 
 kitchen door steps, you may see poor, huugry chil. 
 dren flattening their noses against cook shop and 
 restaurant windows, gazing, when the inside steam 
 allows, upon the luscious puddings, and fain would 
 fill their bellies with the crusts that sticV to the 
 sides of the pans and no man gives unto them. They 
 are huddle 1 in remnants of old shawls and cast off 
 coats, twice too big, and dragging on the ground, 
 their toes have a too close acquaintance with the 
 snow and mire, and all doors are shut. It is not 
 the Yorkshire pudding that they wish so much, a'l 
 swimming in rich gravy though it be, because that 
 is connected with the thought of a piece of brown, 
 fat roast beef, and their thoughts dare notmou:.t so 
 high; but the pudding beside it, the batter pudding 
 with fat in the hollows and raisins snuggling close 
 together by twos and threes in the rich dimples. 
 Just this square or that, and no man gives unto 
 them, 
 
 4015. Batter Pudding. 
 
 WITH RAISINS. 
 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 3 quarts of milk or water. 
 
 4 large basting-spoons of butter, melted. 
 2 large basting spoons of golden syrup. 
 
 12 eggs. Salt. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound of seedless raisins. 
 
 Mix up as you would batter cakes, wetting the 
 flour gradually to have no lumps; the milk tepid, 
 the butter melted, the eggs well beaten and powder 
 and sjrup last. Pour into 2 buttered pans made 
 warm an inch deep, and sprinkle the raisins all 
 over Bake about 20 minutes, or till light brown. 
 Serve in squares with lemon syrup or any puHding 
 sauce. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 G'7 
 
 410. Baked Batter Pudding. 
 
 WITH APPLES. 
 
 The preceding, with 2 quarts of apples in quar- 
 ters, instead of raisins. The easiest cooking apples 
 may be dropped in raw, but others need to be baked 
 in the pan with sugar and butter syrup first, and 
 the batter poured over them and baked. 
 
 However good a plain pudding may look to hun- 
 gry people, there are always others to exert them 
 selves to make a better. The credit of the origina 
 tion of the following is given to a duchess of Sun- 
 derland. As here changed from cup and spoon 
 measure it is 0. K. 
 
 411. 
 
 Sunderland Pudding. 
 
 BATTER PUDDING WITH RAISINS. 
 
 J pound of seedless raisins. 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 8 eggs, or 10 yolks, and powder. 
 4 ounces of butter, melted. 
 
 2 ounces of golden syrup. 
 Salt. Baking powder optional. 
 
 The pudding is made with the yolks of eggs. The 
 whites are beaten to a firm froth and added last, or, 
 if not so beaten, left out, and baking powder — 1 
 teaspoonful — used instead. Make like the puddings 
 preceding it. 
 
 Birdsnest Pudding. 
 
 For the inside take ten ounces of first quality 
 white Chinese edible, glutinous birdsnests. They 
 must be taken from the coast rocks on the day they 
 are finished building, before they become soiled. 
 Three ounces of the purple gelatinous moss from 
 Sumatra. Twelve eggs of the golden turtle of Sa 
 marcand. Two wine glasses of the liqueur called 
 Tears of the widow of Malabar. For the outside or 
 casing cut thin shavings of the ripe fruit of the 
 Malayan bread-fruit tree; soak them a few hours in 
 the clarified oil of fat puppy and — 
 
 What, don't want it ? "Nay, then indeed I am 
 unblest" — why not ? 
 
 0, here is a regular Wilkie Collins of a plot. Some 
 one has opened the book at the wrong page, and that 
 was not it at all. 
 
 4151. 
 
 Birdsnest Pudding. 
 
 WITH CREAM. 
 
 No doubt derives its name from its appearance 
 when baked in a small pudding dish and set on the 
 table whole. The batter rises round the edges and 
 the apples might be supposed to resemble eggs. In 
 
 hotel service it is but an empty name, and this re- 
 ceipt makes the puddiag sufficiently soft and custard 
 like to stand the waiting of a long dinner. 
 10 ounces of flour. 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 
 ^ pound of butter, melted. 
 
 I pound of sugar. 
 
 6 eggs. Salt, 
 
 Apples enough for two three quart pudding pans. 
 
 A little more sugar and butter to bake them 
 with. 
 
 Cinnamon or nutmeg. 
 
 Pare and core the apples, put thoax in the pans 
 whole. Fill the core holes with sugar and butter; 
 grate nutmeg; allow water enough to wet the pans, 
 then bake with a thick sheet of paper over till done, 
 basting with their syrup occasionally. Then mix 
 the other ingredients to a smooth batter, beat it 
 well; pour over the coot ed apples; bake half an 
 hour. 
 
 First rate cooking apples small enough to be 
 served entire with the batter round them are most 
 desirable. Cream or cream sauce, or wine or lemon 
 sauce. 
 
 413. Poudmg a la St. Croix. 
 
 INDIVIDUAL. 
 
 3 pounds of banana pulp. 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 pint of cream. 
 
 12 eggs. Pinch of salt. 
 ^ pint of West India rum. 
 ^ teaspoonful of ground mace. 
 
 2 pineapples. 
 
 Peel the bananas and mash them to a pulp; 
 weigh; put into a saucepan with the sugar and but- 
 ter and stir over the fire till at boiling heat. 
 
 Take it off, add the cream and flavorings, then the 
 yolks of the eggs and lastly the whites whipped to a 
 firm froth. Bake in custard cups .^r tin gem pans 
 of handsome shape, and well buttered, about 10 or 
 15 minutes. Slice the pineapples very thinly and 
 make liot in a syrup of sugar and red wine. Serve 
 the little puddings upside down on a slice or two of 
 pineapple in a saucer and the syrup poured over. 
 
 414. Baked Plantain Pudding. 
 
 WITH FRENCH CUSTARD SAUCE. 
 
 3 pints or i»ounds of plantain pulp. 
 10 ounces of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 pint of cream. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 J cupful of sherry. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
93 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 Plantains are not good for this purpose unless 
 ripe. Peel and mash; stir over the fire with the 
 butter and sugar till cooked semi-transparent; add 
 all the ingredients, the eggs beaten separately, or at 
 least very light. Bake in a buttered pan about half 
 an hour. 
 
 415. Oream Ourd Puddingr. 
 
 1 pound of dry rennet curd (product of about 4 
 quarts of milk). 
 
 ^ pound of butter. 
 
 f pound: of sugar. 
 
 4 whole eggs. 
 
 6 yolks. Salt. 
 
 ^ pound of raisins and currants mixed. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 ^ pound of fine bread crumbs. 
 
 Flavoring of lemon, nutmeg or almond. 
 
 Rub the curd as taken from the cheese vat or 
 draining cloth through a seive or strainer by means 
 of a masher. Add the other ingredients, the solids 
 first, then the beaten eggs and cream, and flavorings. 
 Bake in a buttered pudding pan about half an hour. 
 Serve with custard or wine sauce. 
 
 416. 
 
 •'See, here is a whole eight-gallon can of milk gone 
 
 sour." 
 
 '•Pity. Those milkmen seldom take pains to 
 thoroughly cool their milk before shutting it up in 
 the cans." 
 
 "Well, can you make any use of it ?" 
 "Yes, it will do very well for the preceding pud- 
 ding, and is liked as well as anything else in iis 
 turn. Let it get a little better curdled, then bring 
 it to about boiling he ^t; mind it don't burn at bot 
 tom; then strain through a large towel and hang the 
 curd up in the towel to drip dry — about 12 hours 
 But take notice, this is not the best. It will be a 
 curd pudding lemon flavored, but the sweet cream 
 or milk curd made with rennet will make a pudding 
 to resemble almonds." 
 
 41T. 
 
 Buy a dry rennet of the butcher. Place a piece 
 
 of it in a bottle and fill up with water. When it has 
 stood a few hours mix two or three spoonfuls of the 
 liquor in a pan of milk. In two or three hours the 
 milk will be curdled Then scald and drain the 
 curd. Good for puddings, pies, cheesecakes, etc. 
 
 418. 
 
 Baked Cabinet Pudding. Meringue. 
 
 Made with slices of cake and citron in small 
 Blips; custard poured over and baked. 
 2 quart panful of slices of cake. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 ^ pound of citron cut fine. 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 6 eggs. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 ^ cupful of brandy. 
 Meringue for the top. 
 
 Butter two pudding pans. Place in a layer of 
 Slices of cake. Then sprinkle in citron and bits of 
 batter. Place another layer oa that v/iih citron 
 and bu'uter again and there should fctiil be thin 
 slices enough left to cover the citron with Mix the 
 custard of eggs aud milk — no sugar needed— add 
 brandy and lemon juice and rind, pour over the 
 cake in the pans and bake about 20 minuies. When 
 done meringue over in the way already detailed for 
 meringue puddings. V.'hei dry s'ices of cake are 
 used the lemon juice is still more needed to freshen 
 the flavor. The brandy may be omitted without 
 harm. 
 
 A cabinet pudding to be served whole can have 
 the citron in patterns on moulds spread with butter. 
 Wrap paper about the outsides to prevent too haid 
 baking of the crust. Bake half an hour. Meringue 
 after turning out and brown the top with a red hot 
 shovel. 
 
 Life is full of such compensations as these. 
 Forbidden to use bread any more in cur puddings 
 we must manage to get along with cake. But wait, 
 befure commencing on the laborious savo/ cake 
 puddings there is something else. 
 
 What a world of Aunt Betsey Trotwoods there 
 used to be eating arrowroot pcdding f.r the sake of 
 poor blacks that never existed, with a solicitude 
 like hers for Copperfield's imaginary sister ! It is 
 plain it was an advertising scheme. The argument 
 was : there are those poor blacls in the West In- 
 dies; you have caused them to be freed from bond- 
 age; there is nothing they can do for a living but 
 make arrowroot; if they cannot sell their arrowroot 
 they will die, therefore, to save their lives, you 
 must e it arrowroot pudding. Then arrowroot found 
 a good market and the great majority of all the gold 
 spectacled people in the civilized world were eating 
 all they couM. The gold spectacle distinction has 
 to be made because people below that rank could 
 not very well aflford it as the poor people who made 
 arrowroot would have died if they had not sold it 
 at a high price. Eating arrowroot pud ling is not 
 Euch a very unpleasant way of being benevolent, 
 but, bless their kind hearts, there came a time when 
 the gold spectacles could not possibly eat any more, 
 and barrels of arrowroot lined with blue paper be- 
 came uncomfortably numerous in the merchants' 
 warehouses. Then they began mixing it with rice 
 flour and starch and reducing the price, and there 
 never being a very striking difference between starch 
 and arrowroot the cheap article has at last very 
 nearly banished arrowroot altogether, except from 
 the drug stores. All the annexed receipts for 
 starch puddings will do equally well for arrow- 
 root, in case there are any people solicitous for the 
 welfare of arrowroot manufacturers still left in this 
 world 
 
THE AMEKIOAN PASTRY COOS. 
 
 Boiled Corn Starch Puddingr- Oorn 
 
 Starch Minute Pudding. Hasty 
 410, Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 ^ pound of corn starch, good weight. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 or 3 yolks of eggs. 
 
 ^ teaspoouful of salt. 
 
 Vanilla or almond flavoring. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it. Mix the 
 starch with a little milk cold; thin it with some hot 
 milk out of the kettle; pour it quic'ily into the boil- 
 ing milk and stir two minutes, or till it is well 
 thickened. Have ready the two yolks beaten with 
 a spoonful of milk, take oflF the kettle, beat the 
 yolks in, the heat of the starch will cook them, then 
 the butter an i flavorings. Turn the pudding out of 
 the kettle it was made in to a bright pan buttered 
 slightly, and keep warm till wanted. Serve with 
 lemon syrup sauce or with hot cream. 
 
 There are not many puddings as cheap and simple 
 as that. Nothing else is so quick, and it is never 
 s'ighted at table. "But why was it, the pudding so 
 nice and rich and firm when first made afterwards 
 turned to liquid in the pan and could not be dished 
 up?" 
 
 It was kept too hot and cooked too much. 
 
 4SO. Boiled Farina Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 J pound of sugar. 
 7 ounces of farina. 
 4 ounces of butter 
 
 3 yolks of eggs. 
 Salt and flavoring. 
 
 Nearly the same as corn starch pudding. Boil 
 the milk and sugar and sprinkle in the farina dry, 
 beating like making mush. Let cook slowly half an 
 hour with the lid on, at the back of the range. Then 
 add eggs and butter. Lemon, wine, vanilla, cus- 
 tard, or cream s^uce. 
 
 ♦•Such puddings as the two last come in just 
 right for second puddings." 
 
 "What do you mean by second puddings ?— they 
 are just right for first." 
 
 "Buttoofiset the rich pudding, just as rich as it 
 can be, the other has to be plain and of a lighter 
 kind, such as your apple custards and fruit souffles 
 and plain rice puddings to suit people of simpler 
 tastes" 
 
 "Not now. The fashion of having two hot pud- 
 dings at once is abandoned in all the best hotels. 
 Instead of matching your puddings, one lich and 
 one plain, or one baked and o e steimed, you now 
 
 match your one hot pudding with your oold cream? 
 and custards and floats and the pastries, anl fcnn-s 
 of these are rich enough to require the pudditig to 
 be as simple as the corn starch, if all are to be 
 pleased. And don't have a brandy sauce pudding 
 at the tame time with a cold tipsy custard — give the 
 people who abhor liquor a chance." 
 
 4S1. 
 
 Baked Oorn Starch Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of milk, scant. 
 
 ^ pound, good weight, of corn starch. 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of butter. 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 ^ teaspoouful of salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it — which prevents 
 burning at bottom. Mix up the starch with a little 
 cold milk aud then some hot, pour it quickly into 
 the boiling milk in the kettle and a' most immedi 
 ately, or as soon as fair'y mixed take it off the fi e. 
 Beat in the butter immediately to cool it; then the 
 yolks beaten up with a spoonful of milk; flavor and 
 bake about 20 minutes or till the eggs are fair y 
 set Ihe art to be learned in all sorts of corn starch 
 puddings is to cook the starch enough so that the 
 rawness cann( t be tasted, yet not enough to cause 
 it to turn watery. Serve with Sultana sauce. 
 
 4S3. 
 
 Oorn Starch Meringue. New York Pud- 
 ding. Oswego Pudding, Etc 
 
 Anyone who has made the nonpareil or queen 
 pudding wid understand this in a moment whento^d 
 it is the same thing done in c">rn starch. Make the 
 pudding of corn starch as in the foregoing receipt 
 When barely set in the middle spread over the top — 
 or drop portions with a spoon — of p ach mtrmalade 
 or preserves. Make that hot on top and spread me- 
 ringue of 8 whites whipped firm and 6 ounces of 
 sugar over it. Bake again about 5 minutes with the 
 oven door open. Cream sauce. 
 
 The writer has seen more partial failures, prob- 
 ably, with this class of puddings than with any 
 others, and asks to be excused fur dwelling upon 
 trifling details for that reason. They are excellent 
 when excellently made. The marmalade on top 
 must be made cooking hot before the meringue 
 touches it if you would avoid having au undesirable 
 albuminous syrup overflowing the pudding, and the 
 meringue must be only dry-baked. 
 
 There are people who like chocolate in any form 
 three times a day, yet the liking is far trom general. 
 The following pudding is probably as good as can be 
 made of its class. It should only be brought on 
 along with some other commoner sort for aiivraa- 
 ive. 
 
IOC 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Corn starch Chocolate Pudding. 
 483. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 3 ounces of grated chocolate, 
 f pound of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of com starch, 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 6 or 7 eggs. Pinch of salt. 
 
 1 tab'espoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the milk with both the sugar and chocolate 
 in it. Beat frequently till the chocolate is all dis- 
 solved. Mix the starch as usual and stir it in, then 
 immediately remove from the fire. Beat in the but 
 ter, eggs and vanilla, and bake about 20 minutes, or 
 till just set in the middle. Serve warm with but 
 ter sauce or golden sauce, or cold with sweetened 
 cream. 
 
 The foregoing makes a very fine appearing pud 
 ding when meringued over like the one preceed- 
 ingit. 
 
 4!94. Scotch Barley Pudding. 
 
 1 pound of pearl or Scotch barlej. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 6 eggs. Salt. 
 
 1 J pints of milk to mix with. 
 
 ^ a nutmeg grated. 
 
 Wash the barley in several waters to free it from 
 the meal. Boil it in the 2 quarts of water at' the 
 back of the range about 3 hours, with a tight lid on. 
 Mix the other ingredients in and bake about half 
 an hour. Currants and raisins can be added if de- 
 sired. Two full quarts of barley ready cooked, if 
 dry, answers the same. 
 
 The reasn for inserting the preceeding good pud- 
 ding there in haste was the ever present fear of 
 steppi'-g into an American pie if we did not shut off 
 corn starch immediately. 
 
 Strange, but true, almost every pudding we touch 
 and begin to polish up whisks us up and carries us 
 over the water as quick as the genii did those who 
 rubbed Aladdhi's lamp. That puddiogs do not 
 often beluiig litre is due to the fact that while Uncle 
 Sam's childrea love not pudding less they love pie 
 more, and are very apt to call all things of native 
 origination pieth*it would elsewhere be called pud- 
 ding. 1 his has been more than once before observed 
 in these columns, and here is an example. There 
 were the soldiers "in the late great war, many of 
 them from homes of plenty and luxury, little relish- 
 ing the rough fare of the a»ni.y commissariat, and 
 some genius among them struck a culinary idea and 
 invented "Lincoln pie." Wherefore Pie? It was 
 a hard tack pudding in reality, but was made pie in 
 obedience to a national instinct, and as Lincoln pie 
 
 it had for a time an immense run of popularity far 
 outside of the army, being sold in all the bakeries. 
 The original was composed of hard-tack, bacon fat, 
 molasses and dried apples, with a tough flour crust, 
 but fat times and fat camps were occasionally en- 
 countered and then Lincoln pie blossomed out to 
 this. 
 
 435. 
 
 Lincoln Pie. 
 
 Camp Little All-Right. 
 
 1 pound of broken cracVers or bread. 
 
 1 pound of brown sugar or^molasses. 
 
 ^ pound of currants. 
 
 ^ pound of raisins. 
 
 1 ounce of mixed ground spices, chiefly cinna- 
 mon. 
 
 1 pint of cold water. 
 
 ^ pint of hard cider, or vinegar and water. 
 
 1 pound of suet chop red fine, or lard. 
 
 Some whisky and four eggs, if you are rich 
 enough. Little salt. 
 
 £'oak the crackers or bread in the fluids awhile. 
 Mix everything together. Cover the bottom of a 
 baking pan with a very thin sheet of common short 
 paste. Pour in the mixture to be 1^ inches deep. 
 Cover with another very thin sheet of paste. Brush 
 over with milk. Bake to a light color in a slow 
 oven about three quarters of an hour. Cut out 
 squares either hot or cold. 
 
 436. 
 
 Plain Short Paste. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 ^ pound of good lard, butter, drippings,or grated 
 suet. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 A handful of flour more to roll out with. 
 
 Rub the lard into the flour dry, till thoroughly 
 mixed. Put in the salt and all the water, work it 
 up to a smooth paste, roll it out once like pie paste, 
 fold it over and it is ready for use. 
 
 The water should always be poured into a hollow 
 in the flour when making any kind of paste, and 
 the flour drawn in rapidly but graduaVy while stir- 
 ring with the fingers, otherwise the paste may bo 
 rough and lumpy and much working to correct the 
 mistake will make it hard. 
 
 4ST. Boiled Apple Dumplings. 
 
 Make the plain short paste preceding. Pare and 
 core good cooking apples; cut them in halves. Roll 
 the paste to a sheet a quarter of an inch thick, put 
 the apple under the edge, gather paste around and 
 pinch it offunderneath, and so on, till all the sheet 
 is used up. See that there are no holes or thin places 
 to let in the water. Drop the dumplings into broad 
 saucepans of boiling water, shut down the lids; let 
 them cook about half an hour, or till the apples 
 leave the fork when tried. Short paste cannot be 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COO^ 
 
 101 
 
 made any richer for these without breaking in the other crust on^ iUeja} ^h^^ the. re*iai;Ki6r - af the 
 
 cherries and a third 's&eet' 6f clbu^h'on top. Set in 
 a Bteamer and steam from 30 to 45 minutes and 
 serve while hot and light, with sauce, 
 
 ir«ter. 
 
 428. Dumplinsrs Cooked in Sauce. 
 
 Make the dumplings like the last variety, but use 
 the roll-pudding paste made with baking-powder as 
 directed in the early part of this book, adding an 
 egg to the mixing water for further precaution 
 against breaking in boiling. Then boil the dump- 
 lings in their own sauce in the oven. This is effected 
 by half filling two bright and clean baking pans 
 with milk and water. When boiling drop in the 
 dumplings and cook about half an hour with but- 
 tered paper over the top to prevent browning, and 
 baste occasionally with the liquor, which will glaze 
 them. Then put J pound of sugar and | of butter 
 in each pan, and strain the sauce thus made after 
 the dumplings have been removed to another pan. 
 Peach dumplings are better this way than any 
 
 other. 
 
 420. Raspberry Pudding. 
 
 The directions for making this will answer for 
 every kind of fruit that can be used for puddings. 
 
 Make the plain short paste as previously directed 
 — if with suet it should be chopped with flour mixed 
 in till it is as fine as powder. Line some deep earth-, 
 enware bowls of any size from a pint to two quarts 
 with the paste rolled out to a thin sheet. Then fill 
 quite full and rounded up with fresh-picked rasp- 
 berries. Wet the edges of the paste; roll out a 
 round sheet of paste and lay it on top; cut off the 
 surplus by rolling the edge with the rolling-pin, 
 thereby closing it at same time. Wet and flour a 
 pudding cloth, lay the middle on top of the pudding, 
 gather the corners around the bottom of the bowl 
 and tie safely. Drop the pudding upside down into 
 plenty of boiling water and keep boiling from one 
 to two hours, according to size and kind. When 
 done dip the pudding a moment in cold water, take 
 off the cloth; cut a>ound hole in the top, put in a 
 JBufficienoy of sugar and serve in the bowl set on a 
 plate. No sauce needed. Several pleasant com- 
 binations of sweet and sour kinds of fruit can be 
 made and used in this way; sometimes with a Buit^ 
 able sauce. 
 
 All kinds of fruits can be used to make the above 
 kind of steamed pudding, which has no shortening, 
 but plenty of powder, and has the fruit in layers 
 like apple roll. 
 
 430 a. Pine Hominy Puddingf. 
 
 2 large cupfuls of cooked fine hominy — hominy 
 grits or sdRnp. 
 
 Butter size of an egg — IJ ounces, 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar — 2 ounces. 
 
 2 yolks or 1 egg. 
 
 1 small cupful of milk. 
 
 The hominy grits already cooked, should be dry 
 and firm, otherwise use less milk or none. Mix all 
 the ingredients together, the butter softened first, 
 and bake in a buttered pudding pan about £fteen 
 minutes. It takes a quart pan to bake it in. Use 
 yolks of eggs if a rich pudding is wanted. Serve 
 with a sauce. If no hominy ready put on a large 
 half cupful in full cup of water, and when it has 
 boiled nearly dry add a small cup of milk and pinch 
 of salt; never stir it, but let cook with a lid on one 
 half hour longer, at the back of the range. 
 
 Boiled White Com Meal Pudding. 
 
 430. Steamed Cherry Pudding, 
 
 1 quart of pitted cherries. 
 8 heaping cups of flour. 
 
 I teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 2 cupfuls of water. 
 
 Mix the powder in the flour dry, make a hollow 
 in the middle, throw in a little salt, pour in the 
 water and mix up as soft as it can be handled. 
 Work the dough on the table slightly by pressing it 
 flat with the hands and doubling over. Lay a bot- 
 ton crust of it in a tin pudding pan that holds 4 
 quarts; spread half the pitted cherries on it, lay an- 
 
 1 pound of white corn meal (scant quart). 
 
 1 quart milk. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of chopped suet. 
 
 A little salt. 
 
 3 eggs. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of extract ginger. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it ; sprinkle intht 
 meal and stir it over the fire five minutes. 
 
 Then take it off, mix in the suet, salt, eggs beaten 
 and ginger. Wet and flour a pudding bag ; place it 
 in a bowl; pour in the pudding ; tie loose enough 
 for it to swell to nearly double its bulk ; drop in 
 plenty of boiling water and keep it boiling 5 hours. 
 When to be taken up, dip it a moment in cold water 
 and it will come out of the cloth smooth. Serve with 
 butter and sugar hard sauce. 
 
 430 c. Granula Puddingf. 
 
 Granula is claimed to be a healthful dietetic of 
 the same order as graham flour. It is apparently 
 parched wheat ground like corn meal, coarsely. It 
 makes a pudding resembling Indian meal pudding. 
 Make it precisely as directed for farina, either 
 boiled or baked. See Nos. 377 and 420. Use 4 
 cups of milk or water to 1 cup of granula. 
 
102 
 
 / f ^ - : THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Had it not seemed perfectly useless to ask so 
 simple a creature as that I should certainly have 
 tried to learn some more rarious uses of the magnifi- 
 cent chestnuts which we picked up in passing 
 through the grand old manor grounds, but the fear 
 of having her shortly answer, "Why roast them in 
 the bars and eat them/' deterred me. If there were 
 no larger and better chestnuts than these sold so 
 plentifu'ly and cheaply on the streets there would 
 not be much inducement even for the famous mon- 
 ley and catspaw business being foMowed, of placing 
 chestnuts between the bars of open fire places till 
 they burst and fly out, but the Spanish and British 
 chestnuts are of a larger growth. Good old Horace 
 Greeley, or at least the paper under his direction, at 
 one time became very earnest in recommending (he 
 extensive planting of chestnut trees in the west. It 
 concerns us here only to hope that the result may be 
 after a while plenty of chestnuts of the large variety, 
 wherewith to compound the European chestnut 
 puddings. 
 
 For hotel cooks who have little time to peel and 
 scrape the small chestnuts in quantities, the follow- 
 ing two pudding receipts will probably be found 
 sufficient, at least till we come to frozen pud- 
 dings among the ices. 
 
 There is a meal-co'ored, dumpy little elf, down 
 stairs, chuckling audibly and saying there is a good 
 deal more in dumplings than a little Short Paste 
 knows. The language is that of Marguerite, but 
 the accent is either that of Hans or Gretchen. The 
 German elves are generally meal-colored. Queer old 
 German stories there are of some of them going in a 
 rolic to some tyrannical .baron s granaries in the 
 myterious small hoursj^^of night, grinding a 1 the 
 wheat in a few minutes in the baron s own mill and 
 carrying the bags of meal with many a laugh to all 
 the widows' and orphans' homes without so much 
 as marking them C. D. The noisiest of those 
 below is only "Davy Dompling, boiling in the pot," 
 but it appears from the ta^k that dumpling is a 
 German word, and is not much diflFerent in Swedish, 
 Norwegian and Danish. 
 
 There must be something in dumpling worth going 
 to Rhineland to see about, but this chestnut pud- 
 ding has to be made and steamed and baked first 
 
 The English and French receipts always prescribe 
 certain numbers of chestnuts, as two or three dozen. 
 It takes from 150 to 200 of the plentiful American 
 chestnuts to weigh a pound, hence the uselessnes of 
 
 ■uch receip's. 
 
 431. Steamed Chestnut Pudding. 
 
 1 pound of chestnut pulp. 
 
 J pint of cream. 
 
 ^ pound of fresh butter. 
 
 J pound of sugar. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 6 whites of eggs. 
 
 Pinch of salt. 
 
 Vanilla or almond flavoring. 
 
 Boil 1|^ pounds of chestnuts in water one hour. 
 Peel them, scrape off the furry outside; and mash the 
 kernels through a seive, moistening with hot cream. 
 Mix all the other ingredients with this puree except 
 the whites of eggs; the yolks having been weli 
 beaten before stirring in. 
 
 Whip the whites firm, and lightly mix them in 
 without beating. Steam in buttered moulds about 
 one hour. Serve as soon as done, with diluted 
 fruit jelly made hot for sauce, or e'se with French 
 wine custard. 
 
 4SS. Chestnut Pudding SoufQe. 
 
 Make the preceding pudding with only six of the 
 yolks and no whites. Stir it over the fire till it 
 thickens. Take it off and add four raw yolks and 
 when nearly cold all the whites beaten firm, and 
 ^ pint of brandy. Bake in a two-quirt mould 
 about half an hour. Dredge vanilla flavored sugar 
 over the top in the oven, and send it straight from 
 oven to table. Powdered vanilla bean will flavor 
 the sugar. 
 
 Very often in the dinner bills of European plan 
 hotels there appears in pudding's place ' Savarin 
 Cake." Persons unaware of all our singu'ar wajs 
 would be apt to think there was no pudding. In 
 hotels where the cake is set on the tab'e in baskets 
 Savarin cake as pudding is pretty sure to get ost in 
 the confusion. In United States parlance Savarin 
 ca'je is Savarin pudding as follows: 
 
 Savarin pudding is a hot cake, yeast laised but 
 like sponge cake, with a liquor poured into it, and 
 may be s'rrved with sweetened cream. My meal- 
 colored elf downstairs, the muscular one who sits 
 on the dough trough lid to keep the dough from 
 raising it, says it takes German ba^^ers atid cooks to 
 know how to make fine yeast-raised cakes, that 
 American cooks and bakers are content to get along 
 with pound and sponge cakes for every occasion. 
 
 In a proposed book of breads yet to come we will 
 have a course of yeast raised cakes beginning with 
 the simplest and including Savarin. However, the 
 common and sitisfactory way U to use a good hot 
 sponge or savoy cake for this pudding. Here 
 
 are both ways. 
 
 433. Savarin Cake. 
 
 1 pound of good lively roll dough. 
 
 IJ pounds of freshest buWer. 
 
 G ounces of sugar. 
 
 14 eggs. 
 
 1 pound of flour, 
 
 J teacupful of brandy. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 103 
 
 J pound of almonds. 
 
 Lemon or nutmeg extract. 
 
 This must be commenced five or six hours before 
 the meal. For a midday dinner, tike the roll dough, 
 (or dough bought of a baker), at seven in the morn- 
 ing, put it in a pan with Ihe sugar and butter and 
 set in a warm corner to get all warmed through. In 
 half an hour, beat tbem together, then begin adding 
 the eggs two at a time and the flour a handful at a 
 time Beat like blitzen. It makes a soft batter 
 like pound cake. Beat it some more against the 
 side of the pan. Set it in a moderately warm place 
 for about two hours, when it shoud be risen to 
 about twice its original bulk, then beat again for 
 five minutes; add the brandy and flavoring extract. 
 B'anch and shred the almonds. Strew them evenly 
 over the insides of two buttered cake moulds; put in 
 the batter with a spoon; set to rise in the moulds 
 again about IJ hours, then bake in a slow oven 
 about 1 hour, or according to size and depth of 
 cakes. When nicely baked these cakes are of a rich 
 orange color and quite spongy. Set them on the 
 dish upside down; push a small funnel down in 
 several places and by its means pour into the cake 
 some hot orange syrup mixed with curacoa. Serv e 
 
 warm. 
 434. 
 
 Savarin Pudding. 
 
 A large bisquit de savoie partly saturated with a 
 fine liqueur and served hot with cream. 
 
 Prepare one or two cake moulds by brushing over 
 with the clear part of melted butter. When cold 
 and set, or nearly so, sift in some powdered sugar 
 to coat the moulds, and turn out the surplus. Then 
 make the cake. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 12 ounces of flour — good weight. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of vanilla extract. 
 
 \ pint of brandy. 
 
 Have the ingredients all quite cold. Beat the 
 sugar and eggs in a round bottomed kettle, with a 
 arge wire egg-whisk, half an hour by the clock. 
 Then "cut in," or lightly stir in the flour with a 
 spoon, then the extract and brandy. When all the 
 flour is out of sight stop stirring and bake the cakes 
 as soon as you can. Sift granulated sugar on top be- 
 fore baking. Have a moderate oven and not the 
 least dark color about the cakes. They bake easily 
 in about half an hour. 
 
 When done pour into them through holes made 
 with a knife point or funnel about a pint of nice 
 lemon or orange syrup with half as much curacoa 
 or maraschino mixed in. Serve with either hot 
 cream pweetened or a plain custard in the sau- 
 cers. 
 
 In about forty-nine out of every fifty places 
 where these puddings are made they have to be 
 baked in ranges or stoves, and take their chance for 
 their turn with meats, fishes, pies, potatoes, pars- 
 
 nips, etc., etc., so that special attentions and gradu- 
 ated fires are out of the question. With the utmost 
 respect for the fiftieth, the writer avows a greater 
 desire to be of service to the forty- nine, and ^or an 
 easier way recommends the annexed. 
 
 435. Tipsy Pudding With Cream. 
 
 This is first cousin to the two preceding, and is 
 popular, but is quite elastic in the way of details, 
 that is it can be made and sauced in different ways, 
 not worth considering separate puddings. Make 
 the sponge cake mixture preceding or else tV-e 
 quicker and easier butter sponge calie soon to fol- 
 low, and bake on jelly cake pans which take scarce 
 ly five minutes baking. Lay two or three of these 
 flat sheets piled up in a bright pan and pour over a 
 hot sauce of either cream with sugar and wine, or 
 else a custard with maraschino or brandy Or, you 
 can partly saturate the sheets of cake, which should 
 be quite light colored, with spoonfuls of brandy and 
 have the cus ard plain. 
 
 We have the next when we want to gild refined 
 gold, for extra times, when all else seems stale, flat 
 and unprofitable. 
 
 is not very tedious to make and there is no difficulty 
 except in getting enough of it. 
 
 436. 
 
 Baked Sponge Roll With Sauce. 
 
 Make the sponge cake mixture according to the 
 directions under the head of Savarin pudding. 
 Rather use less sugar than more. Too much sugar 
 is one frequent cause of poor sponge cake. Grease 
 and flour some b king sheets or shallow roll pan'. 
 Spread the batter over them as thin as can be, jnst 
 to cover the iron. Bake in a brisk oven about fire 
 minutes, run a knife down the sides to loosen the 
 cake. Turn it upside down on a clean table and 
 shake the cake loose. 
 
 Immediately ppread red current jelly thinly a 1 
 over and roll the cake up neatly. Serve warm, cut 
 in suitable pieces, with a rich transparent since con- 
 taining lemon juice and flavored poured over. 
 
 It is too much trouble and wastes time to bake 
 these sponge sheets on sheets of paper. Very little 
 practice is needed to use the bare pan with greater 
 advantage. Sometimes it helps a bad bake to roll 
 up a britt'e sheet after the roll is made, in a sheet of 
 paper to improve its shape. 
 
 No one expected to find the above in a book of 
 puddings, but Ruskin says that cookery means th« 
 knowledge of all fruits and herbs and balms and 
 
104 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTR-J COOK. 
 
 8p!ces, and of all that is healing and sweet in fields 
 and groves. • 
 
 We ought not to forget this white cocoanut souffle. 
 It is good to use up white of eggs, and good for 
 other purposes. 
 
 43 T. Cocoanut Pudding SouflQe. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch, 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 I pound of grated or desicated cocoanut. 
 
 12 whites of eggs, (10 or 12 ounces). 
 
 Rose and lemon flavoiing. 
 
 Set the milk on to boil. 
 
 Mix the starch and sugar together dry; drop 
 them at once into the boiling milk; stir up rapidlj. 
 As soon as it becomes thick beat in the butter then 
 the cocoanut, take it off the fire and let it cool, but 
 not set firm. Then beat the whites to a firm froth 
 Beat up the pudding mixture, stir in the whites add 
 flavoring and bake about ten minutes in the usual 
 manner, either in cups, shells, cases or in one round 
 mould. Powdered sugar on top. 
 
 This is a case of conscience. A Ittle way back 
 tipsy pudding was placed close after Savaria pud- 
 ding and called its first cousin, and now there is a 
 fear that good old Brillat-Savarin may be dis- 
 honored by its being called his, as if it were all 
 the same and as if he had been a tipsy 
 man. Don't. Names are cheap; use some other. 
 Bri lat Savarin was well-disposed towards cooks, as 
 was also Lever, the elder Dumas and Thnckeray, each 
 after his own manner. You, reader, would make 
 the tipsy pudding so excellently that the great ad- 
 vocate of gastronomy would but smile indulgently, 
 but suppose that down there where bad hotels exist 
 some poor fellow following your example of license 
 should make it inferentially appear that Savarin was 
 fond of sheets of cake saturated with horrible 
 corn-juice whisky, and a turpentinish flavor of ran- 
 cid lemon oil put up in a village drug store. Don't 
 mix names; or if you must, take a slice of fine white 
 bread and pour pure milk over it, and call that Sav- 
 arin pudding. He would agree with us; bread and 
 milk pure and simple i:? glorious in comparison. 
 
 One of Savarin's ideal d'nners, a Barmacide feast 
 which he spreads on paper, and which i^ to "rive, 
 every guest's altention," at which "the faces of al'; 
 one after another, are seen to beam with an ecstasy 
 of enjoyment, the perfect repose of b'is?," fi:jishes 
 with a pyramid of vanilla and rose meringue cake — 
 a test sometiraps useless, unless in the case of ladies, 
 abbes, etc." 
 
 What then, amongst the various article to which 
 such a description might apply was this pyramid of 
 yanilla and rose meringue-cake appearing at the 
 
 end of dinner, if not something like these next 
 described? 
 
 A peculiarity about the meringue puddings next 
 following (or call them meringue cakes as Savarin 
 did, if you like), is that it takes a good p stry cook 
 to make them successfully; but then they have the 
 advantage of not being too common. They are not 
 such as one would want to make every day; yet they 
 are rich, elegant, ornamental and can be served 
 either cold or hot, whole on the table or in individ- 
 ual portions. They consist of three distinct p'trts; 
 the cake bottom the cream layer in the middle and 
 the ornamental meringue on top; yet the first speci- 
 men being well made the half dozen others, all dif- 
 ferent, can be put through by the same methods, and 
 the first trouble is not lost. 
 
 438. Lemon Cream Meringue. 
 Magnolia Meringue 
 
 For the first part or bottom layer make this most 
 useful cake mixture, called butter sponge cake. 
 
 1 pound of granulated sugar. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 ^ pound of butter melted. 
 
 ^ pint of milk, slight y warmed. J 
 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of bak ing powder. 
 Vanilla or lemon flavor. 
 
 Beat the sugar and eggs together about five min- 
 utes. Add the melted butter, the milk, the extract 
 of vanilla, and beat all one minute more. Then beat 
 ill the baking powder, and into the light foamy batter 
 thus made immediately stir the flour. 
 
 This can be used for jelly cakes, cream cakes, 
 and many other purposes. 
 
 Butter and flour the bottoms of two bright pud- 
 ding-pans — four quart milk pans are good — and 
 spread the cake batter over thinly, like jelly cakes. 
 Bake very light colored. Let the batter be well up 
 to the edges so as to have the sheets level, not bulged 
 up in the midd e. Then make the lemcn cream. 
 
 3 pints of water — scant. 
 I pound of sugar. 
 
 4 lemons. 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 10 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Boil the water with the butter in it. Mix the 
 starch, sugar and grated lemon rinds all together 
 '^ry, then stir rapid y into the boiling water. Take 
 the mixture from the fire; add to it the juice of three 
 of the lemons, (if large), and then the beaten yolks. 
 
 Pour this mixture on top of the sheets of cake in 
 the pans, without loosening them, and bake in a 
 s'ow oven about 15 minutes on theshe'f c f the oven, 
 or with a pan under to prevent the boUoms bak- 
 ing too much. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 105 
 
 The preceding is almost lemon pie mixture, but 
 fai firm enough to cut square sided like cake. 
 
 When the lemon cream is fairly set spread a thick 
 layer of meringue on it while still hot and finish bak- 
 ing with the oven door open; time about ten minutes. 
 Serve cut in tall but narrow diamonds or squares in 
 plates or saucers with whipped cream around. Ten 
 to fourteen whites and about as many ounces of 
 sugar are required for the meringue. 
 
 430. Almond Cream Meringue. 
 
 Princess Meringue. 
 
 Make and bake the cake sheets in the pans, same 
 as for the lemon cream meringue preceding, then 
 make the almond as follows: 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch, 
 
 A pound of almonds. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 Flavoring of rose. 
 
 Pinch of salt. 
 
 Scald the almonds, peel, mince and then pound 
 them to a rough paste. Boil the milk, mix the starch 
 and sugar together dry, stir rap idly into the milk, 
 take off, and add the other ingredients, the whites 
 not beaten, except in the mixtifre, and the almonds 
 and rose extract last. 
 
 Bake this white cream on the cakes as before. 
 Make the meringue a rose-pink color, flavor with 
 vanilla and rose, and sift granulated sugar on top 
 before baaing. Serve with a port wine and lemon 
 sauce. 
 
 440. 
 
 Chocolate Cream Meringue. 
 
 Gipsy Meringue 
 
 The same in the main as t^^e Iwo preceding with a 
 chocolate cream for the middle. 
 
 3 pints of milk. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces of grated chocolate. 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Vanilla flavoring. Little salt. 
 
 Make same way as almond cream, boiling the 
 grated chocolate in the milk. Make the meringue 
 white and very light baked; flavor it with almond 
 •nd sift crimson sugar sand on top after baking. 
 
 The object of baking the sheets of cake in the 
 pans in which the meringue is made is to have them 
 adhere to the bottom sufficiently to prevent their 
 rising and floating in the cream mixture when 
 poured in as otherwise they will do. Jelly cake 
 sheets used this way have to be held to the bottom 
 by means of a little beaten egg, baked by passing 
 the pan a moment over the fir© 
 
 441, Pineapple Cream Meringue. 
 
 Eclipse Meringue. 
 
 1 quart of grated or minced pineapple, 
 
 1 small cupful of port wine. 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 lemon rind grated. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 ^ pound of shred pistachio nuts. 
 
 Stew the minced pineapple and wine and ha'f the 
 sugar together, till somewhat r. duced and like fruit 
 butter. Mix the starch and the rest of the 
 sugar together, stir them and the butter into the 
 pineapple, add flavoring and yolks of egg 4. Bake 
 this cream on bottom sheets of white cake. AJer- 
 ingue over as usual Sift sugar on top before baking 
 and strew over the shred pistachio nuts. Dry bake 
 to a fawn color with the oven door open. 
 
 When these meringue puddings are to be set on 
 the tab'e whole, to be eaten cold the method has to 
 be varied a little, by baking on jelly-cake pans with 
 a stout paper hoop pinned or pasted around. But- 
 ter the paper well, make the meringue in it instead 
 of in a pan, then remove it carefully when the me- 
 ringue is placed on its stand, being slipped from the 
 j lly ca'e fl t by means of a palette knife. In these 
 cases the meringue can be placed in pyramidal form 
 through a large tube or cornet forming dome shapes 
 on top, etc , etc Here is one more for variety: 
 
 443. Orange Cream Meringue. 
 
 Natchez Meringue. 
 
 To ornament the top of this, cindied and sugared 
 orange peel should be prepared, or green citron, or 
 preserved water melon rind. The orange peel first 
 cut into the smallest possible squares is stewed in 
 plenty of water to extract the bitter taste, then 
 stewed in white syrup, then partly dried and rolled 
 in granulated sugar to separate the pieces. Strcw 
 this candied peel over the top of meringue after it 
 hag become firm without removing it from the oven. 
 
 The orange cream. 
 
 3 oranges. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 2^ pints of water (5 cups). 
 
 3 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 10 yolks of eggs 
 
 Grate the rinds and squeeze the juice of oranges 
 and lemon into the water, then bring it to a boil, 
 add the starch and sugar and finish as directed foi 
 other kinds. 
 
106 
 
 THE A3SIBRICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 My meal-colored elf, who still is sitting on the 
 dough-trough as before, and converses so well, in » 
 rich Hartz Mountain dialect, would be a delightful 
 companion to wile away a witching midnight hour 
 or two if he were not such an idol breaker. Native of 
 Sinta Claus land as he is it wouM be glorious to sit 
 in the stilly night, when stars are in the quiet skies 
 and the cricket chirrups on the hearth, and hear 
 him tell the weird wild stories of the Blac'i Forest, 
 or the strange but mellowed legends, half told half 
 hinted in the Pilgrims of the Rhine. But his realism 
 is chilling in the extreme and he has no feeding of 
 compunction: 
 
 "Mephistopheles?" 
 
 ♦'No, not numerous. Never but one man really 
 saw Mephistopheles, that was Gurthe." 
 
 Then I suppose Gurthe is Goethe, and wonder 
 where Sir Walter Scott found the name Gurth for 
 his Saxon swineherd. But, says he, there was no 
 Gurth, no Wamba,no Ivanhoe, and Friar Tucx never 
 had a venison pasty! 
 
 "But the Hartz Mountains — are they not full of 
 the supernatural ?" 
 
 "Nein. They are full of charcoal-burners, glass- 
 blowers, miners, and people who make childrens' 
 toys." 
 
 **No headless horesmen who ride past you at 
 night! No white lady of the what's its name moun- 
 tain pass? No demons that come and tempt wood- 
 choppers to do something? No haunted hotels in 
 the Black Forest? No safes, no annunciators, no 
 elevators?" 
 
 "Ncin." 
 
 '*No phantom herds of deer that vanish into the 
 ground just as the guests on a hunt are about to 
 come up with them? No Metheglin? No were- 
 wolves, no vampires, no dampfnudeln?'* 
 
 "0, yes, there are German dumplings." 
 
 "Real and sure?" 
 
 *'0, Yes; they are real enough." 
 
 "'Tis well for the hungry boy who shouts with his 
 sister at play; and well for the sailor lad 
 who sings in his boat on the bay; that this much is 
 solid in Fatherland, and cannot be reasoned away " 
 
 443. German PuflF Dumplings. 
 
 Very fine, cheap and wholesome. They are 
 Usually boiled but can be raised and cooked in 
 Bteamers, previously brushed over with butter as 
 well. 
 
 2 pounds of good light bread dough. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 egg and 2 yolks, or 2 eggs. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 If for midday dinner take the dough at seven in 
 the morning, mix the sugar butter and eggs with it 
 as well as can be, then set the pan in a warm place 
 awhile, after which it can be beaten smooth. Work 
 
 in the flour to make it a stiff" dough again acd set it 
 away to rise. At 11 o'clock work the dough by 
 foMing and pressing out with the knuckles roll it 
 out to a sheet, brush over s'ightly with lard or but- 
 ter, cut out like biscuits, let rise about half an hour 
 on greased pans, drop into boiling water and cook 
 about 15 minutes Butter and si gar cr any kind 
 of pudding sauce, or stewed fruit. 
 
 The plain dough, or that of French roUs is often 
 cool^ed as dumpling*? to be ea^en with meat. The 
 receipt preceding may be made ri:'her by adding 
 yolks'of eggs and more butter (but no more sugnr) 
 to any desired degree. 
 
 444. 
 
 Not as a matter of opinion as to what might or 
 
 ught to be the case but as a matter of fact it has to 
 be observed cgaui that the plain dumplings yeast- 
 raited are but eeldom made in ordinary hotels, the 
 ».wo or three manipulations required and the ear y 
 planning being against them In ten minutes a 
 similar article can be made with soda and butter- 
 milk or acid, or with baking powder, that answers 
 every purpose. It is something of an art to make 
 these so that they will remain light when done, yet 
 it is a very simple one, the essential being only to 
 have the dough very soft, made and dropped with a 
 spoon like fritters. 
 
 445, Egg, or Drop Dumplings. 
 
 1 pound or quart of flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls tf baking powder. 
 
 3 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Two thirJs pint of water (largest coff'ee cup.) 
 
 Little salt. 
 
 Mix fljur and powder together dry; drop the 
 yolks in the middle, pour the water to them and 
 beat up the batter with a spoon. Have ready a 
 saucepan of water boiling; dip the spoon occasion 
 ally in melted fat; form egg-shaped dumplings with 
 it and drop them in. Coek with the lid on about ten 
 minutes. If there is room theyl will turn them- 
 selves over like fritters. Can also bo steamed as 
 
 well. 
 
 440. Egg Dumplings with Fruit. 
 
 The yellow dumplings of the foregoing receipt, 
 drained on a skimmer, rn'-y be EerveJ in a saucer 
 with fruit and hot cream and sugar. 
 
 44T. 
 
 Blackberry Drop Dumplings. 
 
 Flour the hands, take and shape spoonfuls of the 
 soft-dough — either of the egg dumplings or made 
 with one whole egg, or none — into biscuit shapes; 
 put a spoonful of ripe berries in the middle, close 
 up and drop the dumpUngs into a pan of boiling 
 milk and water and cook inside the oven about 
 twenty minutes. Baste with the milk and water 
 twice to glaze. Serve with sauce. Halves of peaches 
 can be used in the same way. 
 
THE AMERICAN FASTBT COOK. 
 
 107 
 
 A little dexterity, acquired by practice in hand 
 ling the soft dough is usually rewarded with light 
 enow flake affairs that do not turn heavy with 
 waiting. 
 
 448. Pilling for Sweet Timbale. 
 Baked Macaroni Fuddinif. 
 
 f pound of macaroni. 
 
 3 pints of milk to stew in. 
 
 J pound of sugar. 
 
 J pound of butter. 
 
 1 pint of cream to mix up with 
 
 10 yolks, or 5 whole eggs. 
 
 Salt; vanilla. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar and butter in it 
 and a pinch of salt. Put in the macaroni broken 
 in inch lengths. Simmer with the lid on about half 
 an hour. Beat the yolks and cream together, add 
 flavoring, mix with the macaroni by shaking, with- 
 out a spoon. Bake in a buttered pan about half 
 an hour, or till set. Stew raisins in wine sau e 
 to serve with it. 
 
 449. 
 
 Macaroni Cake with Fruit Jelly. 
 
 f pound of macaroni. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 3 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 3 eggs. 
 
 Salt, vanilla or nutmeg. 
 
 Keep out a cup of milk to beat up with the eggs. 
 Make same as macaroni pudding preceding. Bake 
 in a pan, to be about an inch deep when done. Out 
 in strips, squares, or diamonds and serve with red 
 fruit jelly. 
 
 450. Baked Vermicelli Pudding. 
 
 The quality of vermicelli varies so much that no 
 rule will serve tor all the sorts. Vermicelli ought to 
 be parboiled and drained before being used fur this 
 purpose Some, however, will dissolve to a paste as 
 soon as hot water touches it. 
 
 The same ingredients and proportions named or 
 macaroni pudding serve for vermicelli. 
 
 Boil a small piece of stick cinnamon in the milk i i 
 lieu of other flavoring. Break the vermicelli rather 
 small before cooking. Do not etir it except by shak- 
 ing up with a furk. Always drop both vermic:l i 
 and macaroni into milk or water that is boiling 
 a-r.ady. 
 
 Italian paste puddings, like everything else may 
 have their day, but other pieces can be put upon the 
 boards which will have a much more extensive run, 
 especially when presented in a spirite 1 manner, like 
 the following with brandy or wine sauce. 
 
 451. Baked Sponge Pudding. 
 
 This is simply hot cake with sauce, and may be th^ 
 regular sponge cake mixture, but the following is 
 easier, cheaper, and answers equally as well. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 ^ pound of butter me' ted 
 ^ pint of tepid milk. 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Beat the sugar and eggs in a kettle as if making 
 sponge cake, but t wo or three minutes will do. Then 
 add the other ingredients, the powder just before the 
 flour; beat up well, bake in shallow baVirg jans 
 greased and floured, with granulated sugar sifted 
 over the top before putting in the oven. The cake 
 rises considerably and should be only half an inch 
 deep when put in the pans. It should be baked of 
 a very light color, and have a handsome g azed ap- 
 pearance. Cut out in squares. Picnty of sauce is 
 required. A suitable article to make on short 
 notice, and may be varied by having raisius, etc., 
 mixed in. 
 
 The next is cottage pudding. It is supposed that 
 in pastoral days it was called }ove-in a-cottage pud- 
 ding, because a very fashionable belle said she saw a 
 love of a pudding in the cottage where she stayed 
 till the shower was over. But as love in a cottage 
 went out of fashion, and it came to be love in a grand 
 hotel with a suite of rooms and all the modern con- 
 veniences the poor pudding lost half its title and 
 remains as follows: 
 
 45». 
 
 Cottage Pudding with Barberry Vin- 
 egar. 
 
 A flour compound midway between cake and bat- 
 ter pudding. 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 I pound of butter. 
 6 eggs. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 Impounds of flour. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
 Level teaspoonful of sa't. 
 
 Make up like pound cake, by creaming the sugar 
 and butter together, adding the eggs two at a time, 
 the milk and then the flour with powder and salt. 
 Bake either m cake moulds and s ice like pound 
 pudding, or else in a baking pan, shallow, to be cut 
 in squares. Takes from twenty to forty minutes. 
 Lemon syrup sauce is a good substitute for rasberry 
 vinegar. 
 
 Rasberry vinegar is a favorite sauce with the 
 English for all sorts of flour and egg puddings and 
 pancakes. Directions for making it will be found ai 
 the end of this book. 
 
108 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 From this time forth stem duty requires us to stay 
 at home and deal only in American productions. In 
 this little private exposition as many foreign coun - 
 tries have been represented as small expositions 
 generally can boast of. The space allott d Great 
 Britain was necessarily the largest, but France was 
 Dot far behind, albeit very few French flags were set 
 to mark the nation* ily of the goods. One country 
 is entirely unrepresented, that is Central Africa; 
 yet it is not the f ult of the culinary commissioners, 
 but of the country itself. A careful examination of 
 the books of Stanley's explorations ends fruitlessly. 
 It appears p'ainly that the interior of Africa, or the 
 African's interior — and if there is any diflFerence in 
 the terms whichever is right wi 1 do — is altogether 
 unacquainted with pudding. 45^ 
 
 There is one nice pudding material which might, 
 perhaps have been placed in the rice department of 
 the Lower Nile but has been excluded through a 
 prejudice against the label on the packages, which s 
 • picture of "natives manufacturing manioca," and 
 looks too much like "natives gathering chow chow 
 leaves for Doctor Helmbold's extract of chow 
 chow." Manioca makes pudding quite equal to 
 rice. Pound some rice in a mortar, sift out the 
 coarse, sift out the flour, use the middle, sago-like 
 grains and you will not know it from manioca. The 
 farina or rice pudding receipts will do for it. 
 
 China makes a fair showing if rice, yams, and 
 birdsnestcbe credited to her. The East , Indies 
 has only one article, sago pudding, but that is quite 
 impor ant in its relation to this country. 
 
 Every reader who will recall to mind the first 
 American Indian romance he ever read will recol 
 lect how they always used to greet each other with 
 "Sago, sago, great chief!" Sago is the pith of a 
 tree; and that is why the Indians got such a repu- 
 tation lor short and pithy sentences. But there is 
 more in it than thac, "Where did the Indians come 
 from?" is a question never yet satisfactorily ans 
 wered, notwithstanding the attempts to prove them 
 the lost ten tribes, and floaters across Behring's 
 Straits. The word sago, it is seen, is in spontan- 
 eous use among them. Saco, sachem, saguache, 
 saguiam etsego, (which the English used to pro- 
 nounce hot-sago) and other words, all meaning 
 places where they have something to eat are but 
 corruptions or deviations from the same root. Sago 
 is Asiatic. The sago tree which yields the ed ble 
 pith is native in the East Indian islands. Our 
 Indians must have brought sago with them from 
 that country. Now if the anthropological or some 
 other sultab'e society wou^d follow up this matter, 
 perhaps tbey would be able to prove that our 
 Indians came from the land of sago in the East 
 Indian Archioelago, and thus settle a much mooted 
 question. 
 
 Our Indians have never been accused of stupidity, 
 but have often shown themselves to be true Ameri 
 
 cans by their ready appreciation of a good thing 
 when they had it. They had not been long in this 
 country before they found out that American Indian 
 corn was far better than East Indian sago, and so 
 p'eased were they with the discove-y that — as is 
 proven by Catlin's magnificent work on the North 
 American Indians, and by the writirgs of all the 
 poets and novelists from Longfellow down who have 
 drawn their particulars from that source — they 
 instituted a green corn dance to take place yearly 
 upon the first appearance of the succu'ent roasting- 
 ears of which the following pudding is made: 
 
 454. 
 
 American Green Corn Pudding. 
 
 Tuscarora Puddinjr. 
 
 A "vegetable entree" or entremet. 
 3 pounds of green corn. 
 6 ounces of fresh butter. 
 
 1 rounded teaspoonful of salt. 
 ^ teaspoonful of white pepper. 
 
 2 eggs and 8 yolks, (or 6 eggs.) 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 Use tender roasting-ears. Free them carefully 
 from silk. Shave the corn from the cob with a sharp 
 knife till you have the required amount — nearly two 
 quarts. Melt the butter and stir it in, and the 
 seasonings. Beat the eggs and milk together; mix 
 all; bake in a four quart milk pan about half an 
 hour or till just set in the middle. 
 
 465. 
 
 Individual Green Corn Pudding. 
 
 Make tulip-shaped cups of the lower part of the 
 green corn husks, the stem being cut ofi'cose and 
 the top edges ci't rounded with a pair of shears. 
 Dip the cups in hot, clear butter. Place them in 
 gem pans of suitable size, fill with the orn pud- 
 ding preceding and bake in a slow oven from 10 to 
 15 minutes without burning the husks out of color. 
 When set lift the puddings out of the gem or muf- 
 fin-pans and serve in the husks hot. 
 
 As the green corn season is short, canned corn has 
 to do duty for it most of the year. 
 
 Two cans of the so called two-pound size will 
 make the preceding amount That is if the honest 
 canned corn be used, which is solid and has to be 
 dug out with a spoon. When your house "gets 
 stuck," on the fraudulent corn and-water put up by 
 the firm that dyes mulberries with logwood, for 
 blackberries, and cans the logwood chips too, then 
 use four cans instead of two; drain it as dry as 
 possible and mash it to a partial paste, to imitate the 
 shaved green corn. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY OOOK. 
 
 109 
 
 456. Baked Indian Riohest. 
 
 2 quarts milk and 12 ounces corn meal. 
 
 10 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 large coflfee cupful of molasses. 
 
 1 large lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 12 eggs well beaten. 
 
 Butter the bottom of a kettle and make mush in 
 it of the milk and corn meal and let it simmer with 
 the steam shut in an hour or two. Then mix in the 
 other ingredients and bake about half an hour. 
 
 45 T. Indian Fruit Puddingr. 
 
 3 pints of milk or water. 
 12 ounces of corn meal. 
 6 ounces of suet chopped fine. 
 6 ounces of molasses (small cupful.) 
 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger. 
 6 eggs. 
 
 ^ pound of raisins. 
 ^ pound of currants. 
 Sa't. Cinnamon. 
 
 Make mush, add the other ingredients, 
 a slow oven about an hour. 
 
 Bake in 
 
 458. Baked Indian Puddingr. 
 
 Cheap and Good. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 
 f pound of corn meal. 
 
 2 ounces of butter or minced suet. 
 
 6 ounces of molasses. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger. 
 
 5 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 Make the mush with 3 pints of the milk, add the 
 rest cold, and the other ingredients. Bake about 
 half an hour. Three heaping pints of corn meal 
 mush ready made will do as well. 
 
 459. Boiled Corn Meal Pudding. 
 
 1 pound of corn meal (nearly a quart.) 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 I pound of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of chopped suet. 
 
 3 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 1 lemon — juice and grated rind. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of ginger, ground or extract. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it ; sprinVle in 
 the meal and stir it over the fire 5 minutes. Add 
 the other ingredients. Tie up in a bag with room 
 enough to swell to nearly twice its bulk; boil 6 
 hours. 
 
 Butter and sugar or hard sauce, meringue sauce, 
 or golden sauce are most suitable for the three pud- 
 dings preceding. 
 
 A book is advertised which foretells all the disas- 
 ters that will befall this poor earth in the next seven 
 
 years. Also, at the same time, Scribner's publishes 
 an article presaging to hotel people the calamity of 
 an avalanche of dried peaches. Now, wbat have we 
 done ? It may be all very true abvUt the Delaware 
 plains being " the peach garden of the continent, 
 where the peach trees stand in rows a mi'e long, 
 luxuriating in a warm and mellow soil and a genial 
 cHmate, and every farm counts its hundreds or 
 thousands. There are forests of twenty thousand 
 peach-trees standing in prim and stately lines. 
 Some large estates count ten, fificen, or twenty 
 thousand trees in one block. With a fair crop 
 there will be five million baskets of peaches on these 
 trees. A good crop will yield six million baskets — 
 more peaches than the nation can eat while they are 
 in good condition " That is p'easant ; so is this: 
 "when, in April days, the blossoms of these million 
 tree i foretoken an abundant crop, the good new^s is 
 telegraphed over the country." Yes, it is good news; 
 everybody glories in millions ; we all love plenty. 
 It is the conclusion that makes us unhappy. There 
 is a new industry springing up. They have learned 
 how to dry millions of baskets as peaches as easy as 
 rolling off a log, as if there was not too many dried 
 peaches already. The dried peach is a g od thing 
 abstractly considered, yet, when presented in a 
 practical shape to the hotel guest, a little of it goes 
 quite a long way. The taste for it has to be culti- 
 vated, and it is tedious work for the coo'-s. Dried 
 peaches keep well, but it does hotel people no par- 
 ticular good to keep them. They might pay the 
 Indians their annuities, perhaps, in dried peaches, 
 and get rid of the Delaware surplus in that way. 
 If it will do any good towards checking the growing 
 evil to show how to use up peaches, green or canned, 
 here are a few ways to go on with, and some more 
 may be studied up after awhile. 
 
 460. Delaware Peach Puddinaf. 
 
 A pastry bottom, peach pudding filling, and mer- 
 ingue on top. 
 
 1 quart of ripe peach pulp. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 A dozen peach kernels pounded small. 
 
 8 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 small cup of cream, 
 
 ^ cup of peach brandy (optional.) 
 
 Take ripe peeled peaches and mash with the Dack 
 of a spoon enough to make a heaping quart. Set it 
 to stew in a bright saucepan with the butter and 
 peach kernels in it ; mix the starch and sugar to- 
 gether dry, stir them into the peach, and in about 2 
 minutes remove the mixture from the fire. Be t in 
 the yolks and cream and brandy. Line two shallow 
 milk-pans with common pie paste, pour in the pud- 
 ding to be about 1 J inches deep. Bake 20 minutes 
 Meringue over with the 8 whites beaten and 6 ouncei 
 
110 
 
 THE AMEBIOAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 of sugar. Canned peaches will do if drained from 
 theirjuice. When stirred over the fire with butter 
 good peaches turn creamy yellow and remain so. 
 
 401. Delaware Peach Meringue. 
 
 Line two suitable shallow pudding-pans with pie 
 paste and fill in three inches deep with halves of 
 ripe peeled peaches. Strew over them about ^ pound 
 of white sugir to each pan (or half the weight of the 
 peaches in sugar) and ^ pound of best butter. 
 Orate a little nutmeg over. Bake in a 
 slow oven abjut half an hour, with paper over 
 if in danger of blackening the fruit. There should 
 be a thick, rich syrup of the peach juice and sugar 
 in the pans and the fruit transparent. Spread mer- 
 ingue ever while still in the oven, and dry-bake that 
 to a light fawn color. Serve either hot or cold 
 
 Not only in Delaware but in Maryland, Virginia, 
 Tennessee, and we know not how many peach 
 growing states beside, the kind of pie to be next 
 described is called peach cobbler. Perhaps it 
 would be as good by some other name, but being 
 such a good medium for disposing of too plentiful 
 fruit its familiar name that it can be readily called 
 by had best not be tampered with The French 
 name is D'Artois — D' Artois of peaches or cherries, 
 etc , or D'Artois cake Ihere is a province of 
 Artois in France which possibly may be as great a 
 peach country as little Delaware. But the proba 
 bility is that D'Artois of fruit gained its name from 
 a Count D'Artois, who, they do say, was some akin 
 to Marie Antoinette. The English would scorn to 
 call a peach cobbler anything but a peach pie, 
 but as they cannot grow millions of baskets of 
 peaches — only a few on a warm south wall — they 
 are not good authority on the subject. Lihe apple 
 and peach charlottes, cobblers are good either in 
 place of pudding or as sweet entrees. 
 
 463. 
 
 Peach Cobbler Southern Style. 
 
 D'Artois de Peches. 
 
 A large pie baked in a shallow baking pan, from 
 1 to 2J inches in depth, with bottom and top crust, 
 glazed and sugared on top and cut out in square or 
 triangular pieces. 
 
 Fine pufiF paste is too rich for this purpose. Ordi- 
 nary flaky pie paste made with 10 or 12 ounces of 
 butter to a pound of flour is best. Cover the bottom 
 of the pan with a sheet of paste rolled quite th n. 
 Fill in with ripe peeled peaches, strew over them 
 half their weight of sugar and a very little nutmeg. 
 Cover with another thin sheet of paste and bake 
 about I hour. When half done brush over the top 
 with egg and water and strew granulated sugar 
 over. Put back and bake it to a rich color. When 
 the fruit is too dry to make its own syrup make a 
 
 sauce to go with the cobbler. All sorts of fruit and 
 rhubarb can be used this way. Canned fruit should 
 be stewed down till the juice becomes thick before 
 being put iuo the paste lined pan. 
 
 4G3. 
 
 New Orleans Banana Puddings. 
 
 Jamaica SoufiQes. 
 
 PufiF puddings baked in candied orange rinds. 
 
 When oranges are used for jelly, sherbets, etc , 
 save the rinds to form the cups or cases for this pur- 
 pose. They can be cut as melons are cut, to make 
 ornamental edges, or else the entire peel removed by 
 being slit part way down, can be turned back to 
 form shapes like tiger-lilies. Boil the rinds in sev- 
 eral waters till tender, and the butter taste is all ex- 
 tracted; then boil in thick sugar syrup; drain, roll 
 in sugar and set them to dry in the shape required 
 (ill wanted. 
 
 2 pounds of banana pulp. 
 
 f pound of best butter (or, olive oil with salt.) 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 16 eggs, less four whites left out. 
 
 \ pint of brandy. 
 
 ^ teaspoonful of ground mace. 
 
 Place the two pounds of mashed banana in a 
 bright saucepan with the butter, sugar, mace and 
 eight yolkg of eggs, and stir them over the fire till 
 cooked to a sort of a marmalade, cool it, add the 
 other eight yolks raw, then the brandy and beat 
 thoroughly; then mix in the twelve whites whipped 
 to a firm froth. Bake in the orange cups on a but- 
 tered pan, in a slow oven about ten minutes. Pow- 
 dered sugar flavored with vanilla on top. Serve as 
 soon as done The rinds if skillfully candied with- 
 out being made hard are a pleasant confection. 
 
 It is difficult to make anything of almonds as 
 good as it ought to be without a marb.e mortar and 
 pestle to pound them to a paste in. 
 
 If your house does not own one, a porcelain 
 potato-masher and small deep kette may have to do 
 for a substitute. 
 
 404. 
 
 California Almond Puddingrs. 
 
 Individual or Souffles. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 J pint of water, (a cupful.) 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 pound of almonds. 
 12 eggs. 
 
 2 tablespooufuls of rose water. 
 
 A few bitter almonds, or peach kernels. 
 
 Pound the almonds — after scalding and peeling 
 them — in a mortar a few at a time till all are re- 
 duced to a paste at least as fine as farina. Moisten 
 
THE AMEBIOAN PASTRY COOK, 
 
 UX 
 
 as you proceed with the rose water to prevent 
 oiling. Boil the sugar and water a few minutes to 
 form a strong syrup. Throw in the butter, then 
 the almond paste, then six yolks of eggs and stir 
 till it cooks thick — about five minutes. Take it off, 
 add the six remaining yolks raw and beat up well. 
 Then the twelve whites whipped firm. Bake in cups 
 or cases. 
 
 Two ounces of starch added to the syrup along 
 with the almond paste will make taller puddings 
 when souflEles are wanted. 
 
 Every one thus far has been a week-day pudding, 
 that is to say, a hot pudding. Now a few are 
 needed of another class. It does not seem to be 
 quite well enough known that fashion has decreed 
 it to be vulgar to eat hot pudding on Sunday, ex- 
 cept at a railroad eating house, and it is vulgar even 
 there when the pudding is very hot and there is only 
 ten minutes for dinner. The railroad companies do 
 their part to guard the public against getting into 
 such a predicament by running few or no trains on 
 Sundays. The various journals of civilization never 
 mention this new decree of fashion in their articles 
 on tab'e manners for the obvious reason that 
 they cater only to the intellectual wants of 
 first-class people who are already thor 
 oughly informed. It would be very awkward 
 for those journals to go about advising people not to 
 eat hot pudding on Sunday who never do. It may 
 be a little absurd to mention such a thing, but the 
 cooks, and particularly those employed in hotels, 
 are quite glad that hot Sabbath pudding is no longer 
 countenanced by the best people. The change lets 
 them out a little, and the result has not been, as 
 some imagined, an overcrowding of the churches; 
 many of those released professing to be well enough 
 pleased with Strauss and Chopin, Verdi and Beeth 
 oven in a so-called beer-garden Some talk about 
 Whitfcier's bro ider fiith and Bryant's idea of the 
 woods being God's first temples, and Byron's pleas- 
 ure in the pathless woods and rapture on the lonely 
 shore, or something of the sort. At any rate it is 
 said they do better and more careful work and show 
 more natural energy and less pernicious stimula- 
 tion after the rest afforded through the abolition of 
 hot Sabbath pudding. What, then, shall there be 
 no more pudding after church? Yes, certainly 
 there shall be puddings plenty and of the most 
 delicate and delicious descriptions but they are not 
 good unless quite cold. 
 
 405. 
 
 Chocolate Custard Meringue. 
 
 2 quarts of rich milk, 
 f pound of sugar. 
 
 3 ounces common chocolate grated. 
 16 eggs 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of vanilla extract. 
 
 Boil the sugar and grafed chocolate in half the 
 milk and beat till the chocolate is well dis- 
 solved. Separate the eggs so as to get ten or 
 twelve whites for the meringue. Beat the rest of 
 the eggs and yolks into the remaining quart of cold 
 milk, pour the chocolate milk into it; flavor, bake 
 in a four quart milk-pan or dish about twenty min- 
 utes. Custards are curdled and made watery by too 
 long baking. As soon as fairly set in the middle 
 have the meringue made as directed in manj pre- 
 vious cases, ready to spread over the top while stih 
 hot and baking. Sift sugar over it and bake about 
 ten minutes with the oven door open. To be eaten 
 cold, A very handsome and excellent dish when 
 carefully baked. 
 
 The above may be cooked and served in custard 
 cups as well. The annexed directions for this will 
 apply equally to several succeeding varieties. 
 
 460. 
 
 Chocolate Custards Meringues. 
 
 Individual. 
 
 Prepare the custard preceding with the best 
 French chocolate and useless vanilla extract. Puur 
 the custard in cups, place them in a steamer and 
 steam fifteen minutes, taking care they do not be- 
 come cooked enough to curdle. Pile the meringue 
 on top while they are still hot, set the cups in a 
 baking pan and bake the tops very sMghtly. They 
 may also be cooked by setting in a pan cf water in 
 the oven, but with more injury to the cups than by 
 steaming 
 
 In a guessing class when it comes to guessing 
 flavors, they always slip up in trying to guess what 
 gives caramel creams and custards such a pleasant 
 taste. 
 
 46T. 
 
 Caramel Custard Meringue. 
 
 2 quarts of milk, or part cream. 
 
 f pound of sugar. 
 
 18 eggs. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of almond extract. 
 
 Four ounces of the sugar is to make the caramel, 
 which must not be black like that used for coloring 
 Put the sugar in a little brass kettle and set it on 
 the fire without water. It will melt and turn brown. 
 When it looks like golden syrup pour in a quart of 
 the milk and let boil till the caramel is dissolved. 
 
 Separate enough of the eggs io get out ten or 
 twelve whites for the meringue Beat the others 
 into the remaining quart of milk, add the sugar and 
 flavor, mix in the caramel milk and bake till barely 
 set in the middle. If not wanted meringued use 
 fewer eggs. It is less necessary io meringue this 
 than chocolate custard, which does not look well 
 without. 
 
iia 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY CQOK. 
 
 We have had charlottes and apple cakes hot and 
 variously made; the next is of the sort of articles 
 that are better than they look. It is rich enough to 
 be eaten cold. 
 
 468. Maryland Apple Cake. 
 
 2 heaping quarts of apples in quarters. 
 
 f pound of sugar — more with soUr apples. 
 
 f pound of best fresh butter. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of ground cinnamon. 
 
 2 pounds of sweet paste for the crust. 
 
 For the last named article, ' home folks" use com- 
 mon cookie dough, hotel cooks use sweet tart paste 
 because it is easier to bake without burning. 
 
 Break the butter in bits in two frying-pans, set 
 on the range, and when melted put in the apples 
 (pared and cored of course) and fry them slowly 
 and carefully till done. Put in the sugar and 
 ground cinnamon and cook a little longer. The 
 apples are expected to look brown. 
 
 Butter a baking-paA and lioe it with the sweet 
 paste rolled out thin; put in the apples and cover 
 with a thin crust. Bake as long as you can with- 
 out scorching — about three-quarters of an hour. 
 Turn the cake out, upside down on a board or sheet 
 of tin and cut it in blocks or squares to serve 
 Thick cream cold is the best sauce. 
 
 Common cookie dough for the preceding is made 
 with: 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 } pound of butter. 
 
 3 eggs. 
 
 ^ cupful of milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 And 1 pound of flour. 
 
 Sweet tart paste is halfway between cake and pie- 
 paste and better than common paste for apple-cake 
 and many other articles, such as shell pies to be 
 baked the day before and filled with preserves. 
 
 469. 
 
 Sweet Tart Paste. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 ounces of powdered sugar. 
 2 eggs. 
 
 ^ cupful of water, 
 
 Rub the butter thoroughly into the flour dry. 
 Allow a little salt if not enough in the butter. 
 Break the eggs in the middle, add the sugar and 
 water, mix up and knead smooth. 
 
 4TO. 
 
 Plain Baked Custard. 
 
 2 quarts of milk or cream. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 24 yolks of eggs, or 16 whole. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of vanilla or lemon. 
 
 Beat the sugar and eggs together; pour in the milk 
 and extract. Bake in a shallow pan about twenty 
 or thirty minutes. 
 
 The preceding is everybody's acquaintance and 
 for a cold pudding is excellent without sauce or any 
 other addition. When it turns watery it i3 because 
 of too much baking. But when it is de*ired to add to 
 it some of our abundant fruits, which would har- 
 monize with it so well, an unpleasant state of fluidity 
 results in spite of careful baking. Then the cooks 
 say it is the fault of water in the milk, and blame 
 the cows for going and standing in the river, as they 
 are known to do, soaking themselves through and 
 through for hours at a time. The difficulty can 
 be overcome and a nice line of fruit custards made 
 in the following way. 
 
 4T1. 
 
 Ne"W Providence Pineapple Custard. 
 
 1 quart of cream. 
 ^ pound of sugar, 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 10 yolks of eggs. 
 
 I pound of pineapple. 
 
 A small cup of milk to mix the starch. 
 
 A pinch of salt. 
 
 Cut the pineapple in small dice, and if not quite 
 ripe and sweet stew it in some syrup formed by cov- 
 ering it with white sugar. 
 
 Boil the cream with the half pound of sugar in it. 
 Mix the starch with the cup of mil's; pour the boil- 
 ing cream to that, causing it to thicken without be- 
 ing quite cooked; beat the yolks and stir in, and 
 then the pineapple. Bake. 
 
 47S. California Cherry Custard. 
 
 Make a thick compote of white cherries by stew- 
 ing two quarts, pitted, with f pound of sugar and 
 half cup of water till the juice is reduced to thick 
 syrup. Spread this in a thick layer over the bot- 
 tom of a four-quart pan. Make the custard accord- 
 ing to the receipt preceding, pour it over the ch rries 
 and bake as usual. To dish up place a spoonful of 
 cream in the ice-cream saucer and a neat spoonful of 
 the cherry custard in that. 
 
 473. Virginia Cherry Custard. 
 
 With red morello, or black cherries. Butter the 
 bottom of a four-quart milk-pan, place in it two 
 quarts of pitted cherries and their juice and one 
 pound of sugar and bake in a slow oven till the 
 cherries will adhere to the pan and not mix with 
 the custard. Make a plain egg custard of one 
 quart of milk and 12 yolks and four ounces of 
 sugar, pour on top of the cherries and bake. 
 Serve cold with cream. 
 
1?HB AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 313 
 
 474. Sonoma Grape Custard. 
 
 Make a corn Btarch custard as directed for bak- 
 ing with pineapples and when ready for the oven 
 mix in a quart or more of white muscat grapes, 
 washed but not preyiously cooked Bake as usual. 
 Serve cold. 
 
 Bartlett pears quite ripe can be used in the same 
 way as white grapes. Apples should be cooked as 
 directed for red cheriies. 
 
 415. 
 
 Compiegne Pudding. 
 
 Savoy Float. Gipsy Pudding. 
 
 Make a jelly cake composed of two sheets of 
 sponge cake baked with grahulated sugar on top to 
 formed a glazed surface, and red currant jelly 
 spread between and when to be used set it floating 
 in two quarts of ice-cold boiled custard flavored 
 with vanilla. May be served whole in a glass bowl 
 or by epocnfuls in saucers with plenty of the cus- 
 tard for sauce. 
 
 ADDENDA. 
 
 Queen Mab's pudding it is not unlikely may have 
 been the predecessor of well-known charlotte russe 
 The writer remembers first seeing the name in a 
 little cook-book by a titled lady, that must have 
 been published half a century ago. It has since 
 reappeared in many places. Queen Mab's pud 
 ding, is a charlotte made by lining a mould with 
 lady-fingers striped with red jelly, and filling with 
 the gelatine cream that is variously called lemon 
 cream, velvet cream, {creme veloute), jaune-mange, 
 and perhaps others names. It is not the purpose 
 here to enter into the methods and merits of gela 
 tine creams, and a short course will be taken with 
 this: 
 
 4T6. Queen Mab's Pudding. 
 
 Individual Charlottes 
 
 Spread some small lady-fingers thickly with firm 
 red currant jelly and place by twos together, then 
 cut them lengthwise into stripes and line custard 
 cups with these so^that there will be red and yellow 
 stripes all round for the outside They may be 
 kept in position by slightly wetting the edges of the 
 cake in white of egg. It is well enough for pre- 
 caution to wipe out the cups first with a touch cf 
 olive oil. 
 
 For the filling make a rich boiled custard. To 
 each quart allow an ounce of gelatine, (it used to be 
 isinglass), dissolved in water separate, or beaten in 
 the milk while on the fire, which is the shorter way. 
 
 Favor with lemon. Strain. When cold and so 
 nearly set that the cakes cannot rise and float in it 
 pour this lemon cream into the lined cups, set on 
 ice and turn them out when firm. May be orna- 
 mented on top with jelly and whipped cream around 
 in the saucers. 
 
 Corrections. 
 
 The bread custard receipt, and a few others like 
 it near the beginning of this book should have 
 been written, two slightly pressed quarts of bread 
 crumbs, instead of pressed in or full-pressed. 
 While a loose quart of bread crumbs has sc;ircly 
 any weight it is found on the other hand that 
 pastry cooks coming down on it with a pressure of 
 fifty pounds to the square inch make much more of 
 a cake and much less of a custard than the writer 
 does of the same receipt. 
 
 Also the few people who know how to cook rice 
 dry, as it ought to be, will probably find the rice 
 custard pudding requires in their hands about a 
 pint more milk. 
 
 Use less baking-powder than is directed for Cot- 
 tage Pudding. The amount there specified is 
 enough for twice the quantity. See variations and 
 adulterations of baking-powder in Book of Breads 
 
 There has been a painstaking effort throughout 
 this entire series to make each and every receipt so 
 reliable that any person might choose among them 
 with a reasonable certainty of success as complete 
 on the first trial as at any subsequent time. 
 
 4T7. "Home-Made" Pudding Sauce, or 
 Sugar Dip. 
 
 1 cupful of brown sugar. 
 
 1 cupful of hot water. 
 
 J cupful of butter. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of flour. 
 
 Mix flour and sugar together dry, pour the water 
 to them, add the butter, and stir over the fire till it 
 boils. The sauce should be thick. 
 
 QUEEN MAB'S PUDDING. 
 
114 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Simple Syrup Pudding Sauce. 
 
 4TT. 
 
 2 pounds of granulated sugar. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 Boil them together in a clean, bright kettle, or 
 new tin pan. Skim and strain for use. 
 
 The above is often used p'ain and unflavored as 
 Bauce for steamed pudding, pancakes, frijtters, pud- 
 dings of green fruit, etc. 
 
 478. Wine Sauce for Puddings. 
 
 2 pounds of granulated sugar. 
 
 1 teacupful of water, 
 
 1 pint of wine. 
 
 1 dozen whole cloves. 
 
 ^ a lemon. 
 
 1 blade of mace. 
 
 Melt the sugar in the cup of water on the fire 
 taking care it does not burn while dissolving. Throw 
 in the spices and the lemon cut in bits — the seeds 
 excluded — and let simmer to draw the flavors. 
 Remove from the fire and add the wine, then strain. 
 It should not boil after the wine is added. 
 
 The foregoing is not quite a simple matter, or one 
 for set instructions. Color is desirable in most cases 
 and the wine is not always sufficient. Then ar- 
 tificial means must be employed. The wines of Cal- 
 ifornia are, happily, coming into use cheap enough 
 for such purposes as these, and with the probabilities 
 in favor of their purity. They are not always of 
 desirable color. Burnt sugar caramel will make 
 your sauce sherry or madeira color. Carmine, which 
 is the coloring principal of cochineal, will make a 
 handsome claret color, 'provided there be lemon 
 juice or any acid in the sauce, otherwise it is apt to 
 make an unpleasant purple. Caramel and carmine 
 mixed make port wine color ; but let the tints be 
 weak rather than be overdone. 
 
 Pudding sauces could perhaps be classified in four 
 divisions, but they ought not, because it may almost 
 be said the more unmethodical our methods in this 
 line can be the better. Not of course, the methods 
 of making sauces, but of their application. This 
 matter, almost inexplicable, it will be our task to 
 talk at and around about in a succeeding column. 
 
 The sauces at present touched upon it will be 
 observed have had nothing in them to give body to 
 their linked sweetness but pure sugar and for richness 
 only wine. So when more wine is used or when 
 fruit or fruit juice instead, more sugar has to be 
 added for thickening for sweetened water or liquor 
 is not desirable for anything but a French beverage 
 They tell of a notable Frenchman who was so de- 
 lighted when loaf sugar was first made that he 
 declared when the price got down to two francs per 
 
 pound he would drink nothing but sugar-and- 
 water. Surely sod i-fou mains and raspberry and 
 pineapple syrups had never then been thought of 
 else why such a homely fancy? 
 
 4T9. 
 
 Pineapple or 
 
 Raspberry Sauce for 
 Puddings. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 J pint of pineapple juice or syrup made by steep- 
 ing the slices, or of liquor from the cans. 
 
 ^ pound of pineapple in shreds 
 
 J pint of port or claret wine. 
 
 Dissolve the sugar in the pineapple juice. Bring 
 to a boil, strain, then add the wine and pineapple, 
 keep hot without boiling. 
 
 Instead of the wine h?ilf a pint of water and a 
 few drops of red coloring — to m*ke the sauce pink 
 only — can be used. 
 
 Red raspberries can be used in the place of pine- 
 apple with the diflference that the berries should be 
 dropped singly into the boiling syrup while it is still 
 thick and never be stirred. In this way they retain 
 their proper shape while coloring and flavoring the 
 syrup. No wine needed. 
 
 Very handsome sauces of other kinds of fruit are 
 made in the way above indicated, by adding it to a 
 strong syrup made with ha'f fruit juice aud half 
 water. White sweet grapes which furnish no syrup 
 may be used to advantage thrown whole into boiling 
 wine sauce. 
 
 480. 
 
 Lemon Syrup Sauce. 
 
 2J pounds of sugar. 
 
 3 lemons. 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 Grate the rinds of the lemons on a tin grater and 
 scrape the zest with a fork into the sugar. Squeeze 
 the juice in without the seeds Add water, boil up 
 and pass through a fine strainer. One of the best 
 sauces for pancakes and, if made a little less acid, 
 for tapioca and all farinaceous and cake puddings. 
 
 481. Orange Syrup Sauce. 
 
 2 pounds of sugar. 
 
 2 oranges. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 IJ cups of water. 
 
 Make same as lemon syrup. 
 
 The sauce preceding mixed with one third curacao 
 is the proper sauce for Savarin pudding, to be 
 poured into the pudding or cake hot. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY OOOK. 
 
 lis 
 
 48! 
 
 Curacao Sauce. 
 
 Sauce au Curacao. 
 
 Curacao is a cordial made by steeping orange peel 
 in proof spirit and then adding to the flavored spirit 
 three times as much simp'e syrup. It is brandy 
 colored. As a substitute make the clear syrup 
 sauce, the first of this series with a few cloves and 
 some orange peel grated in it. Boil, strain and add 
 half pint or less of good brandy. 
 
 483. 
 
 Maraschino Sauce. 
 
 Sauce au Marasquin. 
 
 Maraschino is made by steeping blac'i cherry 
 seeds in proof spirit a long time, and adding to the 
 flavored spirit three times as much simp'e syrup 
 It is c'earaod colorless for a substitute make the sim- 
 ple syrup wiih the juice of canned white cherries — a 
 pint to two pounds. Strain, flavor slightly with peach 
 or almond extract, and add a quarter pint of gia. Ex 
 cellent for steamed puddings, rice and farina cat es 
 and fried cream fritters. 
 
 As long as butter and honey, silver drips and 
 map'e syrup are applied in such lavish proportions 
 to ho' el waffles, hot breads and cakes as is the 
 present custom there will be no reason to make 
 excuse for the excessive sweetness of these clear 
 syrup sauces. Rich as they are they can go a degree 
 higher for such things as sponge puddings and 
 boiled puddings of flour. 
 
 484. 
 
 Transparent Sauce. 
 
 2 pounds of granulated sugrr, 
 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 4 ounces of fresh butter. 
 
 ^ a lemon. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of whole spices — consistiug of 
 blades of mace, cloves, stick cinnamon and alspice. 
 
 Boil all together ten minutes — the lemon cut in 
 pieces — then strain through a fine strainer. The 
 j nice of the lemon is essential to brighten the color 
 
 of the sauce, 
 
 485. Raisin Sauce. 
 
 For macaroni puddings and timhales make a sauce 
 like the preceding and stew J pound raisins in it. 
 Use the raisins as a garnish with the sauce. 
 
 And then the transparent sauce goes still further. 
 
 486. 
 
 Brandy Sauce for Plum Pudding. 
 
 Making the rich transparent sauce as above 
 directed and add to it after straining, J pint of 
 brandy and do not boil afterwards. If to be set on 
 fire when the pudding is sent in another ha f pint 
 of b/andy is required. Make it hot and pour it on 
 top of the other sauce without mixing, then set on 
 fire with a pine splinter. 
 
 48T. 
 
 White Sauce. 
 
 Silver Sauce. Sauce au Vin Blano* 
 
 1 pound of powdered sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of butter, (large cup). 
 
 ^ cupful hot water. 
 
 J cupful of brandy, or else nearly J pint of wine 
 and no water. 
 
 Warm the butter slightly in a bright pan, put the 
 sugar with it and cream them by rubbing together 
 as if for cake. Then set it on the range and while 
 beating with an egg-whisk in one hand pour in the 
 brandy and water or wine with the other. When 
 hot enough to s^rve it is ready. It must not boil, as 
 that destroys its silvery whiteness and makes a gray 
 syrup of it. Takes but a few minutes and should be 
 made last thing. Good for souffle puddings of fruit, 
 drop dumplings and boibd puddings. 
 
 488. 
 
 Maple Syrup Sauce. 
 
 Map'e syrup made hot, a little fresh butter stirred 
 
 in. 
 
 489. Maple Sauce. Imitation. 
 
 Golden syrup made hot, two ounces of butter to 
 each quart ani flavuriog of vanilla and nutmeg 
 
 Olace, ice, glace, glass, g^aze, gloss; glacS, iced, 
 glazed, glossed over. 
 
 That is all very slippery. When a biil-of-fare in- 
 stead of saying a dish has a sauce describes it as 
 glac4 the glossy sauce is required to be thick 
 enough to coat the article and barely run enough to 
 sett e down smooth. With all sugar sauces lite the 
 list preceding it is hardly practicable— they would be 
 almost candy. The next sett are better for gloss. 
 
 490. Corn Starch Syrup Sauce. 
 
 Wine Sauce. 
 
 Substitute for the clear syrup and many other 
 flavored sauces. Takes only half the amount of 
 sugar. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of cornstarch. 
 1 quart of water— scant. 
 1 lemon. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 A b'ade of mace and few cloves. 
 
 ^ pint of wine. 
 
 Boil the water with the lemon sliced small in it — 
 the seeds having been carefully excluded. Mix the 
 starch in the sugar dry ; then stir them quickly in- 
 to the boiling lemon water and let boil 6 minutes. 
 Then beat in the butter and add the wine. Strain 
 for use. 
 
lie 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 401. 
 
 Sauce Millefleurs. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 1 pint of water. 
 
 1 pint of thick sweet cream. 
 
 J cup of red fruit syrup. 
 
 Various flavorings. 
 
 The making of this sauce will be best understood 
 by the explanation that it is a pearly cream sauce 
 with a mixture of several agreable flavors. It should 
 be pearl pink. Of old, when the spices, almonds, 
 lemon zest, and flavors of nectarine and peach h id to 
 be prepared separately this sauce .became a serious 
 affair. Now, by boiling cinnamon, c'oves and 
 grated peel in the pint ot water, btirriug in the 
 sugar and starch, then the cream, and j udiciously 
 adding drops of various extracts the sauce can be 
 made as good as need be in a few minutes. It must 
 be strained, of course. 
 
 49tS. Raspberry Vinegar Sauoe. 
 
 Vinaigre Framboise. 
 
 The various fruit vinegars used extensively for 
 aauces and beverages in Europe are but little enquir- 
 ed for in the United States, but probably need only 
 to be better known to be appreciated. The native 
 wild raspberry of the Rocky Mountains, with its 
 peculiar aromatic flavor and bright scarlet color and 
 juice doubtless cantains new possibilities in relishes 
 and confections, and could be cultivated to an unlim 
 ited extent among its native barrens. During is 
 short season in the towns about which it grows it has 
 no rival among fruits and brings a higher price than 
 any other. 
 
 To make raspberry vinegar, ha-f fill a stone jar 
 with ripe raspberries of any kind, and pour in pure 
 cider vinegar enough to a little more than cover 
 them. Let stand in a warm place twenty-four 
 hours. Mash the berries in the jar; strain and 
 press through a cloth and then run the liquor 
 through the flannel jelly bag. To each pint allow a 
 pound of sugar if for present use or two pounds if 
 to be bottled. Boil and skim and it is ready for use 
 when made cold. It can be kept in preserving jars 
 or cans a long time, put up in the usual manner, or 
 in stone jugs, sealed while hot and painted outside 
 to exclude air 
 
 **Mio amico, why do you, residing in the Boule- 
 vard des Italiens, Pays Culinaire, yet writing French, 
 caU that sambaoine which the French ca 1 sabayon, 
 even when writing Fiench?" 
 
 "Only because the French themselves call the same 
 thing by two different names. The sauce or hot spirit- 
 uous beverage is of Italian origin , and has come down 
 from the time when Italian cookery was in the 
 ascendent, but the Italian spelling is sambaojney the 
 j being pronounced like i." 
 
 Then I asked my meal-colored German elf what 
 in his country they know about sabayon. He 
 answered : "Why that is dreifutz\ — only" — he adds, 
 "when made slightly different with wine it is 
 schatto** 
 
 Then I asked the great Columbian oracie and he, 
 smilingly answered, * why that is scarcely different 
 from Thomas and Jeremiah, — only we do not cook 
 our tom-and-jerry quite so much as you cooks do." 
 
 Then I went to an expert Englishman and asked 
 him — "Say, Johnny! what is tbat sauce you make 
 for plum pudding when you don' t have the common 
 brandy sauce?" 
 
 "That," says he, "is German Custard Sauce," 
 
 "What is its French name?" 
 
 "Sabayon." 
 
 Enough said. They are distinctions without 
 much difference. The confusion comes from the 
 same compound being mentioned in a Babel of many 
 tongues. If an intelligent person but learn the 
 base he can build up as many variations as he please, 
 himself. 
 
 The base may be learned by boiling a quart of 
 Rhine wine, throwing in sugar enough to pleasantly 
 sweeten, and a little spice ; then stirring in enough 
 beaten yolks to thicken it to a custard-like consis- 
 tency — about 10 yolks to a quart — and taking off 
 before it quite boils. Mulled wine, a hot beverage, 
 is an elaboration of this, having the whites of the 
 eggs beaten to a froth and stirred into the nearly 
 boiling mixture the minute before serving. 
 
 40». 
 
 Sauce Sabayon. 
 
 For plum puddings, fritters, etc. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 12 yolks of eggs. 
 
 ^ pint of sherry or other wine. 
 
 Beat the yolks and sugar together in a deep sauce- 
 pan as if making egg-nogg. Set the saucepan on the 
 range ; stir in the wine a little at a time, and then 
 with the egg-whisk whip the mixture to a froth till 
 it has become hot and begins to thicken. It must 
 not quite boil, and ought to be made only just be- 
 fore it is needed. Either powdered cinnamon, vanilla, 
 or extracts can be added for flavor. Brandy or rum 
 mixed with the wine is generally considered an ia- 
 provement. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY OOOK. 
 
 117 
 
 404. Raspberry Butter Sauce 
 
 Only bright red juice should be used — not purple 
 The juice of red currants or light red chenies doe-* 
 instead of light raspberries. 
 
 IJ pounds of powdered sugar. 
 
 f pound of fresh butter. 
 
 ^ pint of red fruit juice. 
 
 This is a hard sauce colored red. Have the fruit 
 juice cold. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar together, slightly 
 warm and add the juice slowly while beating, like 
 ▼inegar to a mayonaise, so as not to iiqnify it. 
 Keep on ice till wanted. 
 
 495. 
 
 Sauoe Doree. 
 
 Golden Sauce. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 4 ounces of best fresh butter. 
 
 3 yolks of eggs. 
 1 nutmeg. 
 
 Break the nutmeg in pieces and boil it in the quart 
 of water. 
 
 Mix starch and sugar together dry and stir them 
 in. When cooked beat in the butter; beat the yolks 
 with a spoonful of sauce and add them with rapid 
 beating to the sauce, which should b? immediately 
 taken from the fire and not allowed to boil the yolks. 
 Strain for use. 
 
 400. 
 
 Lemon Butter Sauce. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Grate the rinds of both lemons into the water and 
 squeeze in the juice of only one, unless quite small. 
 That being the flavoring instead of nutmeg make the 
 sauce in other respects as directed for the golden 
 Bauce preceding. 
 
 49T. 
 
 Meringue Sauoe. 
 Creamed Butter Sauoe. 
 
 1 J pounds of powdered sugar. 
 
 ^ pound of butter, 
 
 8 whites of eggs. 
 
 J cup of brandy. 
 
 Make the hard sauce as directed in two preceding 
 cases with only one pound of the sugar. Whip the 
 whites quite firm, lightly mix in the remaining 
 sugar, then stir both mixtures together and add the 
 brandy. Make it late and keep on ice till wanted. 
 
 498. 
 
 Sauoe Eoumante. 
 
 Foaming Sauoe, Sabayon. 
 
 Frenoh Custard Sauce. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 6 ounces of fresh butter. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 ^ pint of madeira or sherry. 
 
 ^ t.'aspoonful of ground cinnamon. 
 
 Proceed at first as if making cake, to warm the 
 butter and sugar, and cream them together with 
 the cinnamon and the 2 eggs in a deep saucepan. 
 Taen set the mixture over the fire and while stirring 
 it as it becomes warm pour in the wine a little at a 
 time till all is in. With an egg-whisk then beat up 
 the eauce till it becomes quite frothy and begins to 
 thicken. It must not quite boil. Should be made 
 only just before it is to be used. 
 
 499. 
 
 Custard Sauce— Plain. 
 
 1 quart of rich milk. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 
 8, 10, or 12 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Flavor to suit, or wine. 
 
 Boil the milk with the sugar in it. Beat the yolks 
 light with a little milk mixed in. Turn them quickly 
 into the boiling milk and in about cne minute or 
 jusl before it begins to boil take off and strain it. 
 The best sauce when ice-cold for snow eggs, lemon 
 snow float, fruit floats and gipsy pudding. 
 
 500. 
 
 Hot Cream Sauce. 
 
 For drop dumplings, etc. 
 
 1 quart of thin cream, 
 
 f pound of sugar. 
 
 1 ounce of butter. 
 
 1 ounce of starch, (a heaping tab'espoonfull ) 
 
 Flavoring of broken nutmeg or stick cinnamon. 
 
 Boil the milk with the piece of cinnamon and half 
 the sugar in it — the sugar prevents burning — and 
 stir in the rest of the sugar with the starch mixed in 
 it dry. When cooked thick beat in the butter and 
 strain for use. 
 501, "Whipped Cream Sauce. 
 
 Sauce a la Chantilly. 
 
 1 quirt of thick sweet cream. 
 
 4, 6, or 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 ^ pint of sweet wine — such as raiain, caniry, Cali- 
 fornia angelic I, or Madeira. 
 
 Vanil'a, rose, almond or any othei flavor Ai may 
 be required. 
 
 Have the cream cold and whip to a partial froth 
 as wanted, cither in a whip-churn or deep bowl set 
 in ice. 
 
1X8 
 
 THE AMEBIOAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 602. 
 
 Paper Cases for Individual 
 Charlottes, 
 
 jrrocure half a dozen sheets of cap or fine book 
 paper, which is like writing paper not ruled, and 
 make a pattern for the paper cases by fitting a band 
 of paper to the outside of a very small tumbler, 
 such as is used for Roman punch, or some similar 
 small shape. The band of paper, when cut to fit, 
 will form a curve. Cut as many such pieces as are 
 needed from the sheets, and then, placing three or 
 four together, cut both top and bottom edges into 
 fringe a quarter of an inch or less in depth. Make 
 some corn starch paste very stiff, and paste the ends 
 of the bands together, forming cup shapes, then cut 
 around the edges, press the fringe bottom edges of 
 the cups on to the paste, the fringe bent outward, 
 and the shapes are made. 
 
 503. Strawberry Charlottes in Cases 
 'or Fifty. 
 
 Having prepared 50 paper cases of about the 
 capacity of very small tumblers, according to the 
 directions in the preceding article; next bake 6 
 sheets of cake of any kind that is suitable to roll up, 
 or of the following, which is right in quantity for 50 
 small charlottes. 
 
 3 rounded cupfuls of granulated sugar — 1^ 
 pounds. 
 
 15 eggs. 
 
 i cup of water. 
 
 4 rounded cupfuls of flour — 18 ounces. 
 Separate the eggs. Beat the yolks, sugar and 
 
 water rapidly for ten minutes. 
 
 Have the flour weighed or measured ready 
 Whip the whites perfectly firm. Stir the flour into 
 the beaten yolks, and the whipped whites last. 
 
 Spread thinly on sheets of blank paper not 
 greased, and bake in a quick oven about 6 minutes. 
 
 Careful baking is required, because if dried or 
 burnt the cake will break. 
 
 Brush the paper, under side, with water, and it 
 can be pulled off the cake. Should any of the sheets 
 become too dry to roll or bend in spite of care in 
 baking, lay them on top of each other after wetting 
 the paper, and let lie so half an hour. 
 
 Cut out the pieces of cake by the same paper pat- 
 tern the shapes were cut by, but a trifle shorter, and 
 put the lining of cake in the paper cases. No 
 bottom of cake is needed, but little square pieces 
 can be pushed down inside if wished. 
 
 A short time before serving fill the charlottes with 
 the cream intended for the purpose. 
 
 504. Strawberry Whipped Cream for 
 Fifty. 
 
 1 quart of red strawberries. 
 3 pints of thick sweet cream. 
 1 pound of sugar — 2 cupfuls. 
 IJ ounces of gelatine — a package. 
 
 Cover the fruit with the sugar in a bowl, mash 
 together and rub through a seive. 
 
 Dissolve the gelatine in a cup of milk extra, in a 
 small vessel set in a place where it will warm gradu- 
 ally. When the gelatine is dissolved put the cream 
 into a pail or pan, take the large wire egg whisk and 
 whip it to a froth, pour in the gelatine, and continue 
 whipping, with the pan set on ice; then add the 
 strawberry pulp or syrup, and when it is firm 
 enough, and before it is quite set, fill the individual 
 charlottes with it, well piled above the edge 
 
 Cream without fruit, and only flavored with 
 strawbeiry extract, does not need any gelatine. 
 
 505. 
 
 Peaches and Cream. 
 
 The harder kinds of peaches should be chopped to 
 the size of strawberries and mixed with sugar two or 
 three hours before the meal. Allow about four 
 ounces of sugar to a quart. Soft peaches, after peel- 
 ing, are best only quartered or sliced. If admissible, 
 serve them in large glass bowls ornamented with 
 quarters of red or yellow peaches placed in order 
 and a pitcher of cream with each bowl separately. 
 If served individually in saucers, pour the cream 
 over only as they are dished up. 
 
 506. 
 
 Compote of Apples, 
 
 This is but another term for apples stewed in 
 syruf). A compote of fruit is understood to be dif- 
 ferent from stewed fruit, in being richer with sugar 
 and the fruit being either whole or in large pieces. 
 
 Fine ripe apples of a kind that have proved to be 
 good to cook make a delightful sweet dish for tea in 
 this way: 
 
 4 large apples. 
 
 ] cupful of sugar. 
 
 i cupful of water. 
 
 Piece of orange peel or lemon peel, or cloves, or 
 stick cinnamon for flavoring. 
 
 Put the sugar, orange peel and water on to boil in 
 a deep saucepan. Pare the apples, cut each one in 
 three and cut out the cores. Drop three or four 
 pieces at a time into the boiling syrup, and let sim- 
 mer about fifteen minutes, or until done and almost 
 transparent ; take them out with a fork, and cook 
 some more in the same syrup, and so on till all are 
 done. Serve in dessert saucers. The apples can be 
 colored pink by adding red fruit juice or currant 
 jelly to the syrup. 
 
 50T. Pineapple Sweet Salad. 
 
 1 pineapple. • 
 
 1 teacupful of powdered sugar 
 
 ^ cup of maraschino. 
 
 Peel a pineapple, cut it into uniform slices and 
 cover them with the sugar in a glass dish. Let it 
 remain to form a syrup, and when to be served add 
 the maraschino. 
 
THE 
 
 ^HOTEL-^-BOOK^ 
 
 OF 
 
 Breads and C^kes. 
 
 FRENCH. VIENNA. PARKER HOUSE AND OTHER ROLLS. MUFFINS, WAFFLES, 
 TEA CAKES; STOCK YEAST, AND FERMENT; YEAST-RAISED CAKES, 
 ETC., ETC., AS MADE IN THE BEST HOTELS 
 AND RESTAURANTS. 
 
 BEING A PART OF THE 
 
 "Oven and Range" Series. 
 
 Jessup Whitehead. 
 
 CHICAGO: 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD & CO., PuiLXSHBM, 
 
 1894. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 128 
 
 THE HOTEL BOOK OF BREADS. 
 
 AH the Mystery that Pertains to Yeast 
 
 511. 
 
 Stout Party : "What deHcious bread you have 
 Who is your baker?" 
 
 Bnllat-Savarin : "Limet, ia Rue de Richelieu 
 He supplies the royal family; but I send there be- 
 cause it is near, and continue doing so because I 
 have proclaimed him to be the first bread-maker in 
 the world " 
 
 Stout Party : "I must take a note of his address 
 I am a great eater of bread, and with such ro Is as 
 those I could almost dispense with everything else." 
 
 It is one of the most natural occurences in the 
 world, when traveling hotel patrons stop at a good 
 hotel — no matter what the rate per day if situated 
 in the midst of the land of sweet butter— and find 
 on the table hot rolls that are remarkably light, well- 
 baked, well-shaped, thin-crusted, soft, white, sweet, 
 fine-grained, delicious and just splendid ; so that 
 /ley think they "could almost dispense with every- 
 thing else;" for them to ask somebody as a special 
 favor to procure them the receipt to mal^e them by. 
 But, more's the pity, they seldom derive any benefit 
 from the reply; not only because the ingredients are 
 but seldom weighed or measured, and the pastry 
 cook may be unable and unwilling to supply the 
 information, but because in the nature of the case 
 the receipt is but a small part of a little system of 
 bread-making that has to be faithfully followed from 
 small beginnings to great results, if uniformly fine 
 rolls and bread are to be produced ; and that little 
 system is yet so large that it cannot be explained 
 quite all in a minute. Happily however, bread-making 
 is not a very complicated aflfair compared with other 
 branches of cookery where each new article may 
 require a diflferent method, but this ©nee learned 
 becomes little more than a matter of routine. The 
 first step is making the yeast. 
 
 Oommon Yeast, or Baker's Ferment. 
 
 512. 
 
 About 24 potatoes. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 quart of stock yeast. 
 
 Wash the potatoes thoroughly, using a brush fV)r 
 the purpose, and boil them in a kettle of water 
 When done pour oflf what remains of the dark water 
 and fill up again with fresh. When that boils turn 
 out potatoes and boiling water on to the flour in a 
 large pan and mash all to a smooth paste. Throw 
 in the sugar. Thin down with ice water till like 
 thick cream. Set the large colander over your 6- 
 gallon stone jar (just fresh scalded out) and strain 
 the yeast into it. When it is no more than about 
 milk warm mix in the stock or other yeast to start 
 it. Let stand in a moderately warm place, undis 
 iorbed, for from 12 to 24 hours— according to 
 
 weather, activity, and need of using It will then 
 be ready for use, and should be kept cold. 
 
 Not much in that ; yet it was once the subject of 
 an English patent. Somewhere between 1825 and 
 1835. And in the days of our daddies was kept a 
 profound secret and termed patent yeast, London 
 yeast, and patent London potato yeast, long after 
 the patent had expired. Now it is used in almost 
 every household where bread is made. 
 
 To avoid sourness in this ferment it is quite 
 tial that the flour be well scalded, which is the rea- 
 son for filling up the kettle the second time to have 
 plenty of boiling water to pour over it along with 
 ihe potatoes. 
 
 Ought not the potatoes be pared? 
 
 Yts, they ought to be. In nice little hotels kept 
 by ladies they are pared and the eyes scooped out. 
 All the bakers wi 1 do that way when the millen- 
 nium comes. At present the bakers have a sort of 
 superstition that the potato skins make the yeast 
 stronger, and if it should fail to be good would ba 
 sure to lay the blame to the paring of the potatoes. 
 However, they are obliged to wash them very clean, 
 and if they did not pour oflf the first water they are 
 boiled in, its blackness would injure their bread. 
 
 There is no salt in the receipt. Ought not salt be 
 added? 
 
 It need not be. It seems about all the priva'e 
 house authorities add salt. The baker's supersti- 
 tions all are against it. Most bakers will not put 
 salt in their first sponge. Salt in yeast probably 
 does no harm; it certainly does no good. This little 
 book teaches to make bread with such ease, certain- 
 ty, and indiflference to trifles that you will be at 
 liberty to do either way without impairing success. 
 
 Not so with sugar. It has a chemical eflfect that 
 is very observable. People can go on for years 
 making good bread without, but they never discover 
 how quicii and strong yeast can be until they try 
 the sugar experiment. 
 
 513. 
 
 But there is stock yeast mentioned. Where are 
 
 we to get that? 
 
 By all means make your own if you have to make 
 bread constantly and regularly, no matter ia what 
 quantity, for stock can be made either by the barrel 
 or bottleful, and needs be made only once a month, 
 because stock is not put into bread direct, but only 
 used to make the common yeast or ferment. 
 
 It costs only the trouble of making, the materials 
 being almost too trifling in expense to count. Of 
 course you c-in shuflie along without. Some hotel 
 pastry cooks do so all their lives, never knowing 
 how to make stock. But then they are always de- 
 pendent, begging from those who are unwilling to 
 
(24 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 fire or sell it. Or else t-hey use ferment to start 
 with over and over again, and it carries the germs 
 of acetio fermentation, or seeds of sourness all the 
 time; it is weak and makes rotten dough, while 
 with stook used to start with every time, or at least 
 alternately, it is the most difficult thing to make 
 dough or bread become sour, even if you were to 
 try it. 
 
 Some who go on using the lifeless ferment made 
 with ferment for years, blaming the flour and the 
 luck, are astonished after all to find yeast made with 
 perfect stock turning out rolls and loaves twice as 
 large and twice as good as ever they had known 
 them before. 
 
 Stock yeast is the foundation corner stone of a 
 trade. The receipt for making it is never published. 
 It is too valuable to be spread broadcast in a news- 
 paper, yet some way will be indicated at the end of 
 this book by which those who really need it my ob- 
 tain the desired information. 
 
 But if no stock yeast, what then? 
 
 A quart or more of good ferment from the shop of 
 a good baker is the best substitute. Next to that is 
 dry hop yeast in cakes, (they are made from stock 
 yeast) not good fi>r making bread direct because of 
 their taste, perceptible to all persons critical about 
 their bread, but good to start ferment along with 
 sugar. Use a liberal amount — about 6 cakes to each 
 gallon of ferment made. Make a new start that way 
 about once a month and use ferment for starting at 
 other times. 
 
 There are no hops. Don't you use hops in mak- 
 ing yeast? 
 
 Yes, in all cases where no stock can be had, tie up 
 4 ounces of hops in a piece of muslin, boil them 
 with the potatoes in the second water, and press 
 out the liquor through the colander when straining 
 the yeast Hops are not needed>ith stock for 
 starting, as that is already bitter with them. 
 
 The baker or pastry cook who makes perfect 
 yeast is naturally reluctant to take chances on other 
 people's on making a new commencement, and will 
 prefer to take along his own in the following easy 
 and reliable manner. 
 
 514. 
 
 Dry Hop Yeast. 
 
 1 pint of strong, thick, stock yeast. 
 1 pint of fresh ferment, 
 1 pound of corn meal. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of sugar. 
 
 By thick stock is meant some that is not watered 
 down to the common point of using, but left with 
 more consistence for this purpose. 
 
 Mix all together to a stiflF dough, without knead- 
 
 ing. Cut out in suitable cakes and dry them in a 
 cool place as quickly as possible, turning over fre- 
 quently. If covered with meal and dried under a 
 slight pressure of board and weight till so much of 
 the moisture is expelled that they cannot ferment, 
 these cakes will be as free from breakage as the dry 
 yeast of the stores. Either way they will be found 
 very strong and ready both for bread or yeast 
 making. 
 
 615. 
 
 A brand of dry yeast with a German name that is 
 
 sold in tin-foil packages, is made as above with 
 starch and flour. The starch absorbs more moist- 
 ure — takes up more yeast. 
 
 There are then several kinds of yeast. Of com- 
 pressed yeast, the all in all and first necessity with 
 many bakers, this little book will not have much to 
 say. It is neither better nor worse than that we make 
 ourselves Its one merit is that it saves the trouble 
 of making either stock or ferment. In the largest 
 hotels which have bakeries attached it is used and, 
 saving labor, is as cheap as any. But it has to be 
 purchased, and in the ordinary hote] and boarding 
 house, after a month or two, the question invariably 
 comes : 
 
 •'Can't you make your own yeast? So and so 
 does, and they have splendid bread." 
 
 Then the cook or pastry makes his own, and 
 rather liking the independence it gives him, and 
 not caring to change methods every month, the prac- 
 tice of using home-made yeast becomes the hotel 
 rule. 
 
 All ignorant imaginings of luck, chance, water- 
 witchery, mystery, hidden knowledge, moon's age 
 and the like having to do with fermentation should, 
 one would think, have been banished long before 
 this ; but such is not the case, as we are often re- 
 niinded seeing how easily even some old hands will 
 give up trying under the least stress of accident. 
 
 Two men, a few months since, started a "French 
 Bakery" — so their handsome new sign had it — in 
 the livest new city on the continent. The capitalist, 
 with five years savings of some plodding business; 
 the other partner, a routine shop baker from an 
 eastern city. Large size portable oven procured at 
 great expense, very large tent, all other fixtures 
 suitable, high hopes of course, scores of such begin- 
 nings had become fine stores doing a rushing busi 
 ness. First opening day bread very bad — gray 
 color like rye — full of holes — rolls all run together 
 shsipele^s, worse than bread. Blamed flour. Sent 
 for the merchant author of their ruin. Merchant 
 called referees, proved best flour in the state. Next 
 day bread no better, could not be worse — blamed 
 water, oven, dough trough, weather. Next day 
 bread no better — blamed the luck, moon, planet, 
 climate, salt. Ran to place of one of referees wher« 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 125 
 
 gloriuus bread was made and borrowed eome good 
 yeast. 
 
 Next day had good average baker's bread. But 
 no m«re customers. All parties demoralized. Baker 
 on a STool smoking said it was no use^his trying in 
 that town any more, because he had made bis first 
 yeast in the wrong quarter of the moon!^ Sold out 
 for a song — capitalist raised enough to go back home 
 with — baker lost. 
 
 Another case. The steward of a good hotel where 
 the finest bread was known to be made, was sought 
 by the owner of a bakery that had been running 
 with good Buccfss for some time. 
 
 "What brand of flour do you use? I must get some 
 or close my shop. I have no more gocd bread and 
 my trade is leaving me." 
 
 "We use the best — such a brand." 
 
 "Why, I have that, but they must have changed 
 quality on me." 
 
 ''That does not seem possible, for you got the other 
 half of the same car load as ours. Perhaps you will 
 find the fault is with your baker. He did well in 
 warm weather; now the nights are cold. His yeast 
 has run out " 
 
 Correct. Some changes, and the business recover- 
 ed and has grown. 
 
 In one of those Florida hotels, years ago, they tried 
 to do without engaging a pastry cook for the season, 
 and might have got along very well had it not been 
 for theinscrutible mystery that so envelops yeast os 
 to make it impossible for ordinary home fv^lk to ever 
 penetrate to the bottom of it. The company was 
 coming but the yeast would not come nor the light 
 bread. The family carryall was sent fifty miles for 
 a baker, in haste. He came, he saw, he made some 
 mash and poured it very warm into their cold and 
 inert yeast, and in an hour it was all life, overflow- 
 ing the top and filling another jar besides. Such 
 wonderful witchcraft as he understood they never 
 could expect to learn, so he had to stay the season 
 through. It was well for him that he understood 
 yeast. 
 
 Scientists tell us that yeast is a plant, a festive 
 801 1 of microscopic fungus, or multitudinous mass 
 of it, of exuberant growth under the usuual condi- 
 tions favorable toplint life. There is any desired 
 amount of natural philosophy besides the above to 
 be found in studying the singular ways of yeast, 
 such as the different kind of fermentation and the 
 changes produced in the flour, but the really practi- 
 cal thing for bread-makers' profit to remember is 
 that one point that yeast is a plant and to be cared 
 as such As plants grow fast under the influence of 
 warmth and moisture so does yeast. Hot water 
 poured into a bed of plants will kill them and the 
 excess of heat kills yeast, whether the ferment 
 
 be too hot into which the starting yea«t is poured, 
 or whether the dough be made too hot when it ii set 
 with yeast in it to rise. Asa root or seed will be in 
 the ground for months without growing if the 
 ground be cold so will y(ast remain without life in 
 a similar condition. And as a plant may be un- 
 naturally forced to a sickly rapidity of growth till it 
 fallsof its own weight so do yeast and dough act 
 when (hey are hurried too much by being kept as 
 hot as they can be without killing them. 
 
 The best bread and yeast are made by giving 
 plenty of time and gentle temperature for all the 
 processes to be carried out in a natural manner. 
 
 Accidental freezing solid does not kill yeast, nor 
 seem to injure it. This refers only to common de- 
 grees of co'd, not extremes. 
 
 516. 
 
 About Flour. Graham Bread, Rye-an' 
 
 Injun and Boston Brown. 
 
 In fact, great emphasis has been laid upon the 
 quality and manufacture of bread from early times, 
 when the whitest and finest was called simnel cakes, 
 and was concocted chiefly to please the palate of the 
 rich and high-born, as well as the wasiel bread, not 
 quite so aristocratic; whi^e the tourle, or twisted 
 loaf, and black bread made from the coarsest por- 
 tion of the wheat, or from some inferior grain, fell 
 to the share of the poor. 
 
 Nowadays we have discovered that the coarse fare 
 furnishes more nutriment, and the rich have adopt- 
 ed it and made it popular — Ilarper's Bazar. 
 
 Every cure of corpulence must begin with these three 
 maxims or absolute principles : discretion in eating, 
 moderation in sleep, exercise on foot or horsebaon. 
 To abstain more or less rigorously from all that 
 is floury and starchy tends to lessen corpulence. 
 You like bread; then eat brown or rye bread 
 At breakfast, take brown bread a« a matter of 
 course, and chocolate rather than coflfee. Strong 
 cofl'ee, however, with mil h, may be conceded Eat 
 as little of the crumb of bread as possible. — Oastrono- 
 my as a Fine Art. 
 
 Perfect yeast, quick and strong, and so sweet and 
 tasteless that no harm can result from using it 
 plentifully is the first requirement for making perfect 
 bread and the quality of the flour is next to be tak^-n 
 into account. The flour is too generally made to 
 bear all the blame of poor bakings. A good bread 
 maker with good yeast c n make better bread from 
 second rate flour than a second rate workman gen- 
 erally can from the finest. Yet in good hands the 
 finest flour will produce rolls and loaves half as 
 large again for their weight as those made of infe- 
 rior flour. Shop bakers who hnve to count their 
 profit by the number of loaves that a barrel of flour 
 can be made to produce, know that several mor* 
 loaves of the same weight, and of larger size, can bt 
 made from fine flour than from coarse, showing that 
 the best takes up most water, and from the bre^J- 
 
126 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 maker's point of view may be as cheip as the poor 
 flour which costs less money. 
 
 The usual tests for flour do not g«nerally amount 
 to much in assisting the buyer, The miller's brand 
 is his trade mark, and most of them try to keep up 
 the quality of their best at an even degree of excel- 
 lence. The brand is often the best guide. 
 
 If two or three samples of flour are pliced in the 
 hand side by side, and smoothed with a silver knife, 
 the finest may be known by its greater freedom 
 from bran. Yet when one sample is from red wheat, 
 another from white, the appearances maybe decep 
 tive. White wheat does not make the whitest bread, 
 in a general way. A handful of flour pressed in 
 the hand, if good, will retain its shape, while coarse 
 flour falls apart like sand. Yet the best flour new- 
 ly ground will not answer to this test, and poor 
 flour with age will. 
 
 Spring wheat flour may be white, but will not, 
 unless in exceptional cases, make rolls and loaves 
 of as good shape as winter wheat flour, they having 
 a tendency to run out of shape, the dough being soft 
 and sticky. It is winter wheat flour that makes the 
 tall round handsome rolls and loaves. 
 
 Good flour is slow to go through the seive, rolls 
 up in balls and coats the sides. Poor flour passes 
 through like buckwheat or meal. 
 
 Flour improves with keeping, especially in white- 
 ness. It should have six months age before being 
 used for fine rolls. Bakers sometime buy flour that 
 has become caked in the barrels through long keep- 
 ing, and mix portions of it with the newer flour to 
 impart whiteness and strength. 
 
 It often improves the bread to mix two or three 
 brands of flour together, particularly when one is 
 older than the other. Spring wheat flour may be 
 best worked off" by having some old winter wheat 
 flour to mix with it. 
 
 But this is all on the common assumption that 
 good flour means fine, white flour, and the crowning 
 glory of bread-making is to have bread snowy-white 
 and delicate in taste and texture. A very large 
 minority in our hotels, however, make known their 
 preference for various kinds of bread of a coarser 
 sort. 
 
 Graham flour should be the unbolted meal of 
 wheat, but not only that, the wheat should be good 
 plump grain, such as would make fine flour. Very 
 often the appearance and handling is such that 
 graham flour seems little else than bran and shorts, 
 aa if the thinnest wheat had been got rid of in that 
 ■hape. In other samples the flour is made by taking 
 Mconda flour and mixing in an indefinite amount 
 
 of bran, defrauding the consumer of the finest por- 
 tion of the flour altogether. The beat remedy is to 
 buy such flour only of a reputable miller who makes 
 it a special care to select good wheat — generally 
 white wheat — for the purpose. Another remedy is 
 supplied by the proportions of the following receipts. 
 
 517. 
 
 Graham Bread. 
 
 A standing article on the bill of fare of most hotels. 
 
 2 pounds of graham flour, not sifted. 
 
 1 pound of white flour. 
 
 1 J pints of warm water. 
 
 ^ pint of yeast. (1 cup). 
 
 1 teaspoon ful of salt. 
 
 Commence 7 or 8 hours before time to bake. Mix 
 the yeast and water together ; strain them into the 
 graham. It makes a stifi" batter. That is the sponge. 
 Let it stand in a moderately warm place about 4 
 hours. Then add the white flour, knead and pound 
 the dough. Very slightly grease the pan it was 
 started in, place the lump of dough in it, brueh that 
 over — no matter how slightly — with the butter brush 
 and set to rise 2 hours more. Then make into 
 loaves, rise and bake. 
 
 Graham dough rises faster than white, and after 
 being made into loaves should not be a'lowed to rise 
 or proof too much, lest it be too crumbly to slice 
 well. The bakers usually bake these in round 
 moulds. 
 
 Taking fine French rolls for the standard, graham 
 rolls enjoy a degree of popularity in hotel service 
 averaging about three to five. They are more diffi- 
 cult to make — or at least to bake — and a fine graham 
 roll is not to be met with everywhere. They don' t 
 all know how to make them as nice as these. 
 
 518. 
 
 Graham Rolls. 
 
 This is for fifty rolls of small size. 
 
 2 pounds of graham, not sifted. 
 
 1 pound of white flour. 
 
 H piuts of warm water. 
 
 ^ pint of yeast. 
 
 ^ cup of reboiled molasses. 
 
 1 egg — 2 whites are better. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Set sponge with the graham at 9 or 10 in th« 
 morning, for rolls for supper; at about 1 add ail the 
 other ingredients and make it stiS" dough. Let rise 
 till 4. Then work the dough by spreading it out 
 on the table, with the knuckles, folding over and 
 pressing again repeatedly. Make iuto rolls in any 
 of the ways to be hereinafter detailed for whi** 
 rolls. Grease slightly between eacn one witn a 
 brush dipped in melted lard or butter. Brush over 
 the tops with the same, and set the rolls to rlM 
 
THE AXEBICAN PASTBlT COOK. 
 
 Id7 
 
 about 45 minutes. Bake carefully about 15 minutes. 
 Brush over with clear water on taking them from 
 the oven. Keep hot without drying out. 
 
 There ig philosophy or something like it in that 
 one egg. It closes the pores in the crust and re- 
 tains the air of fermentation that otherwise would 
 escape from the rough graham flour, and the result 
 is increased lightness, softness, and better shape. 
 No shortening should be allowed in the mixture. 
 
 Such is the force of habit or custom, one must not 
 expect to be accounted the best breadmaker in the 
 world if our graham and brown breads be not brown, 
 and our gingerbread be not "old-fashioned," that 
 is dark colored. Graham rolls are expected to be 
 light-brown in color. They don't look] natural 
 otherwise; they are nicer so and not so likely to be 
 taken for second-rate French rolls. But now that 
 the march of civilization has taken away our old- 
 fashioned black molasses and given us colorless 
 Illinois sorghum syrup instead, it is hard to see what 
 else we can do but use a spoonful of burnt sugar 
 caramel for coloring, else our brown breads cannot 
 possibly be brown. 
 
 The trifle of sweetening called for in graham 
 rolls makes the crust thin and soft. 
 
 It is far better to set the sponge with the graham 
 so as to soak and soften the bran, instead of taking 
 up white bread sponge and working stiflF with gra- 
 ham, as is oftencst done "for short." Best bread- 
 makers in the world use themselves to the right 
 ways from the first. 
 
 Pastrycooks do not and need not measure the 
 flour. They measure the three-fourths water and 
 one-fourth yeast, and add all the flour needed to 
 make dough. A cup, or half pint of fluid wets a 
 pound of flour. 
 
 It is immaterial whether the dough be made by 
 setting sponge, or batter with yeast in it, as pre- 
 viously directed, or all the ingredients put in a pan 
 and mixed up at once. At night the latter way has 
 to be adopted. The dough made by the receipt for 
 graham rolls over night can be used part for loaves 
 »nd part for muffins by the following short and easy 
 method. 
 
 519. 
 
 Graham MufiQns. 
 
 Makes about thirty. 
 
 2 pounds of graham roll dough. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 ounces (a bastingspoonful) of molasses. 
 
 ^ cupful of milk. 
 
 2 whole eggs and 2 yolks. 
 
 Take the dough that has been already prepared 
 for making rolls. Warm it and the butter in a pan 
 together. Put in the other ingredients and beat all 
 together about 5 minutes. Grease tin muffin rings 
 or gem pans. Half fill them. Rise half an hour. 
 Bake 10 minutes. Brush over with butter or hot 
 water. But if you have nb light dough made the 
 muffins can be set from the beginning with : 
 
 1 pound graham; ^ pound white flour; f pint 
 milk; 1 cup yeast; salt, molasses, eggi?, butter, as in 
 foregoing receipt. Mix and let rise 4 hours. Beat 
 5 minutes, rise in rings till iight, then bake. 
 
 Many of the people in poor heaUh who frequent 
 the springs and pleasure places for recuperation are 
 extremely criiical in the matter of such hygienic 
 articles of diet as graham rolls and gems, and all 
 the hints here given will be found useful in the en- 
 deavor to meet their requirements. 
 
 590. 
 
 Graham Gems. 
 
 Made with Bakingr Powder. 
 
 1 quart of unsifted graham. 
 
 1 quart of white flour. 
 
 4 spoonfuls of baking powder. 
 3 large cups of milk, 
 legg. Salt. 
 
 2 ounces of lard melted. 
 
 Have the milk tepid and mix the lard and egg in 
 it; the powder and small teaspoon of salt to be mix- 
 ed in the flour. Stir all together and beat for 3 min- 
 utes. Have the iron gem pans hot; drop in round 
 spoonfuls of the fritter-like batter and bake ten 
 minutes. 
 
 As it is none of our business to decide which are 
 the very best gems, here is another receipt to be 
 tried when the sameness of the foregoing has be- 
 come wearisome: 
 
 2 pounds of graham; 2 eggs; 4 teaspoonfuls of 
 baking powder; 2 basting spoonfuls of syrup; small 
 teaspoonful of salt; 1 J pints of milk or water. Beat 
 all to a stiff" batter. Make the gem pans hot and 
 grease them. Drop in spoonfuls. Bake in slow 
 oven 15 minutes. 
 
 5S1. 
 
 Graham Bisouit. 
 
 2 quarts unsifted graham. 
 
 1 quart flour. 
 
 2 ounces lard. 
 
 lj|egg in the milk, (optional). Salt. 
 4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 Milk or water to make soft dough. 
 
I £8 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 An hotel pastry cook and baker who had grown 
 ashamed of himself, once told me that for years he 
 went from one hotel to another, as pastry cooks do, 
 find always finding the people earnestly wished for 
 Boston Brown Bread, he as earnestly protested that 
 it could not be made unless there was a bric^x oven 
 in which to bake it 8 hour?, and as only about one 
 in fifty of American hotels own a brick oven this 
 usually ended the argument. 
 
 And yet here and there would be some little house 
 enjoying quite a reputation and a run of custom be 
 cause of its much beloved Boston brown, or it might 
 be only rye-and-injun, hot for breakfast or supper, 
 or for Sunday mornings especially. No matter how, 
 but as he grew wiser and older this pastry cook 
 found the brick oven was by no means an artic'e 
 indispensable, and Boston brown that was a thous- 
 and times pronounced all that could be wished, he 
 made by the following described methods. 
 
 592. 
 
 Boston Brown Bread. 
 
 Raised witli Yeast. 
 
 1 quart of corn meal. 
 1 quart of graham. 
 1 quart rye flour. 
 1 quart white flour. 
 1 quart of boi'.ing water. 
 1 pint of yeast. 
 
 1 small cup of molasses. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 J cup of burnt sugar coloring. 
 
 The method here recommended is materially 
 different from the common troublesome process; 
 first, because troublesome processes cannot and will 
 not be carried out in hotels doing good business 
 and secondly, because this way produces as good 
 results as if one sat up all night about it. 
 
 Scald the meal by itself first, by pouring the boil- 
 ing water on and stirring in a pan. Then add mo- 
 lasses, salt, caramel. If still hot, let it stand awhile 
 before adding anything else. When only milk 
 warm strain in the yeast, then mix in the graham 
 and rye and the white flour last. The dough will be 
 like graham dough and can be worked on the table. 
 Part of the white flour should be left over to dust 
 with. After a little kneading, slightly grease the 
 pan it was mixed in, place the dough in it, cover 
 with a cloth and let rise moderately warm about 6 
 hours. Turn on the table, knead a little, make into 
 4 or 6 loaves, place in round moulds or pails, let rise 
 about half an hour or an hour if to be baked instead 
 of steamed. 
 
 By this method no sponge is set, but the dough is 
 mixed up stiff at once — care being taken not to let 
 the yeast get Ecalded in the hot meal — greatly lessen- 
 ing the trouble. If commenced in the middle of the 
 day the loaves will be ready for the oven after the 
 
 rolls at night, and should be baked two or three 
 hours at very moderate heat. Or, mixed at night 
 and made into loaves very early the bread may be 
 baked in time for breakfast. But the best way is 
 this : 
 
 Make up the dough as directed, at 7 in the morn- 
 ing Work and make into loaves at 12 or 1. After 
 rising one-half hour set the iron pails containing the 
 loaves in the steam-chest, or in a boiler with water, 
 and steam in this way till 5 30. Then bake one-h4f 
 hour and serve hot for supper, the remainder 
 answering for cold bread to toast. 
 
 When these loaves become hollow in the top it is 
 because of too much rising or proof in the pails. 
 Steaming does not arrest fermentation quick enough 
 and they get too light and fall. 
 
 The foregoing is one way that requires good 
 yeast. The next is shorter still and takes baking 
 powder instead. It is hard to say which is the 
 better. You can be happy with either. 
 
 523, Steamed Brown Bread. 
 
 Made with Baking Powder. 
 
 2 pounds of corn meal. 
 
 1 quart of boiling water, 
 
 1 cupful of dark mola?ses. 
 
 1 pint of cold milk or water. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 6 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound of graham. 
 
 1 pound of white flour. 
 
 Scald the meal with the boiling water. Add the 
 molasses and then rest of the ingredients — the powder 
 being mixed in the flour. Beat up thoroughly. It 
 makes soft dough. Put it in 2 or 3 iron pails having 
 lids and steam 5 hours or more, then bake about 
 20 minutes. 
 
 Hotel providers who would have brown bread by 
 these easy methods always, need to provide a set of 
 pails that will stand baking, having bales and lids. 
 They should last for years and require to be made of 
 the best Russia iron, as these properly cared for, 
 greased while hot and wiped out, never discolor the 
 bread. 5 inches across, 8 inches deep. 
 
 524, 
 
 Rye and Indian. 
 
 No different method is needed but to change the 
 ingredients of Boston Brown so as to leave out the 
 graham and the flour and double the proportions 
 of meal and rye in their place. 
 
 Bakers' rye loaves are made by the same method 
 as French loaves, and will be found in that connec- 
 tion at a subsequent page. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 126 
 
 The Best White Bread and How 
 to Make it. 
 
 686. 
 
 Archestratus, a friend of one of Pericles' sons; 
 * * this great writer, during his travels, did not 
 make inquiring into the manners of nations, since 
 they always remain the same, but going into the 
 laboratories where the deicacies of the table are 
 prepared, he only held intercourse with those who 
 could advance his pleasures. — Philosophical History 
 of Cookery. 
 
 The ardent dietetic morality which extolled the 
 bread that was coarsest, brownest, stalest and most 
 truly home-made, and caused fine white and fresh 
 bread to be swallowed as if it were a sin against 
 nature, is classed among the "Isms of forty years 
 ago" in one of the January magazines. Dr. Syl- 
 vester Graham of Connecticut, started the reform, 
 which, running to great lengths at first, has result. 
 ed, in the long ran, in a happy mean, a modific .- 
 tion, a d greater variety in the popular bill of fare. 
 The people in great numbers, who find the white rolls 
 and bread irresistible may reap satisfaction from 
 finding so eminent an authority as the author of 
 "Gastronomy" in their favor. His pr'escription, the 
 groundwork of his cure for thinness, for "a young 
 sylph, or other airy creature, who wishes to assume 
 a more material form" is "first of all, make it a gen- 
 eral rule to eat nothing but newly-baked bread, es- 
 pec ally the crumb, and plenty of it." And he had 
 Btudiid such matters all his life. But as there are 
 dinners and dinners, — so Cardinal Richelieu re- 
 marks to his major domo, meaning that some are very 
 bad, — so it should be said about bread. The rolls 
 of Limet, of Rue de Richelieu, could not hurt any- 
 body. 
 
 52G. 
 
 On one occasion the writer was called upon as a 
 probably competent judge to pass opinion on the 
 work of one of the reputed very best bread makers. 
 There is a dubious kind of excellence in this line as 
 in everything else that does not feel able to stand 
 alone but always wants somebody to keep saying it 
 excels. Such was the case here. The bread was 
 extremely fine, yet, I venture to say the people did 
 not enjoy it except to look at, and felt that some 
 essential quality was lacking. It was white as 
 chalk and a good deal like it ; fine-grained as deli- 
 cate cake, but had no toughness nor elasiicity and 
 crumbled when broken, like meal. It had a sweet- 
 ish insipidity of taste, instead of the hearty relish- 
 ing wheat flavor of good bread. It was made so by 
 an immense amount of kneading the wrong way. 
 
 These people did not invite instruction nor criti- 
 cism, only praise. I said the bread was superhtively 
 fine, and the 'ady was one of the best breadmakers 
 in the world. That the bread was not good was a 
 inental reservation. We all frequently make bread 
 that is fine but not good, and they that have such 
 for their regular diet sometimes find in a loaf of 
 
 common bakers' bread a new revelation of how 
 swee; the taste of bread can be, and wonder whence 
 springs the difference. It is not what the bakers 
 put in the bread but the proper method of working. 
 
 Just the other day a magazinist spoke of good 
 bread making as a lost art. A figure of speech, 
 perhaps, or else the opinion of a lover of good bread 
 whose experiences have been bad ; but if there be 
 any grounds for such an idea to rest on the cause 
 may be found in the unwillingness of instructors in 
 cookery to properiy dwell upon eo seemingly simple 
 and self-evident a matter as the proper way oi 
 kneading dough. And very recently another inti- 
 mated how many persons accustomed to " biscuit 
 streaked with saleratus and heavy with lard, regard 
 rolls white and light as newly-fallen snow as some- 
 thing belonging to the households of princes, to the 
 King of France's Kitchen, but not to be freely eaten 
 by common folks." Now it is cheaper to have good 
 bread than bad, and the bare formula for making it 
 being so little and the understanding how so much, 
 we are going to do our best to endeavor to draw atten 
 tion to what the knack of making bread both good and 
 fine consist J in — yeast and flour being good to begin 
 with. 
 
 It took one, otherwise excellent, pastry cook ten 
 years to discover this knack for himself, but he was 
 all the while the worst mystified man imaginable, 
 because he had, when a boy, made rolls that people 
 would eat in preference to anything else, while now 
 every other kind of bre id was preferred to his hand- 
 somest rolls The fault with them was the same as with 
 the lady's fine, brittle and tasteless bread already 
 spoken of. 
 
 This man had been shown how to work in a 
 routine way in a large bakery without ever being 
 impressed with any idea of the particular way being 
 essential to good quality, and when, afterwards, in 
 a French kitchen where ornamentation was run to 
 the extreme at the expense often of good flavor, he 
 exercised his ingenuity till he could make rolls in 
 forty difl'erent fancy shapes, he found, after all, they 
 were in little demand, lie worked all the life out 
 of the dough in making it into curliques. Then in 
 abusy time a very common fellow came along and 
 was set to make the ro Is. He was too common even 
 to have a name except a familiar Tom, Dic'<, or 
 Harry and was quite unconcious that the rolls he 
 made were the firetthat had ever been eaten with a 
 real zest and favored with a constantly increasing 
 demand in that house. But after that the fancy 
 breads were neglected and there was less cry for 
 toast. Even the "help" — excellent judges of what 
 is good, although. discretely silent — would steal the 
 new man's rolls out of the corners of the pans as 
 they passed —a thing never known to be done be- 
 fore, as long as a biscuit could be had. 
 
130 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 And all the difference was in two different ways 
 of working the same materials The superiority of 
 the common fellow's rolls and bread was all owing 
 to bis kneading the dough the right way. 
 
 58T, Oommon Bread Dough. 
 
 As a rule use one-fourth yeast to three-fourths 
 water. 
 
 The good potato yeast with no germs of sourness 
 in it, such as we have already directed how to 
 make, does no harm in still larger proportions whea 
 the weather is cold or time of mixing late. But 
 the whitest bread is made when the dough can have 
 long time to rise, not hurried up. 
 
 1 pint of yeast. 
 
 3 pints of warm water. 
 
 1 heaping tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 8 pounds of flour. 
 
 Makes 8 loaves of convenient size. 
 
 5S8. 
 
 Setting Sponge. 
 
 Strain the yeast and water into a pan and mix 
 in half the flour. Beat the batter thus made 
 thoroughly. Scrape down the sides of the pan. 
 Pour a spoonful of melted lard on top and spread 
 it with the back of the fingers. This is to prevent 
 a crust forming on top. Cover with a cloth and set 
 the sponge in a moderately warm place to rise 4 or 
 6 hours. 
 
 529, Making up the Dough. 
 
 The sponge having been set at 8 in the morning, 
 beat it again about one, add the salt and make up 
 stiff dough with the rest of the flour. Knead the 
 dough on the table, alternately drawing it up in 
 round shape and pressing the pulled-over edges 
 into the middle and then pressing it out to a flat 
 sheet, folding over and pressing out again. 
 
 Brush the clean scraped pan over with the least 
 touch of melted lard or butter — which prevents 
 sticking and waste of dough— place the dough in 
 and brush that over, too. Where economy reigns 
 the strictest a little warm water in a cup, and tea- 
 spoonful of lard melted in it will do for this brush- 
 ing over and insures tlie truest saving and smooth- 
 est bread. Let the dough rise till 4. 
 
 530. 
 
 The Important Ten Minutes Kneading 
 
 ^.t about 4 o'clock spread the dough on the table 
 by pressing out with the knuckles till it is a thin 
 uneven sheet Double it over on itself and press 
 the two edges together all around first. This 
 imprisons air in the knuckle holes in large masses. 
 Then pound and press the dough with the fists till 
 it has become a thin sheet again, with the inclosed 
 
 air distributed in bubbles all through it. Fold orer 
 and repeat this process several times Then roll it 
 up. It will be 
 
 LIKE AN AIR CUSHION. 
 
 Let it stand a few minutes before making into 
 plain rolls, cleft rolls, or loaves. 
 
 Making Dough at Night. 
 
 It would be a great hardship and in most cases 
 impracticable to make the night dough by the 
 sponge method, although the shop bakers do so, and 
 work it in the middle of the night. Quite as good 
 bread can be made by mixing up into stiff dough at 
 first, provided proper precautions be observed. 
 The danger is of too much fermentation, the dough 
 being ready to bake hours before the time. When 
 a sponge is set the fresh flour added to it hours after 
 checks fermentation, but when all the flour is wet- 
 ted at once, there is no check except the coolness of 
 night keeps it back. In summer the dough may 
 be mixed up with ice Witer instead of warm, at any 
 time after supper and fermentation will not begin 
 for some time after, while the flour is becoming 
 whiter all the time for being so long in the dough 
 state. 
 
 How Much Kneading. 
 
 Small quantities of dough can be easily injured by 
 too much kneading. The true plan is to keep kneading 
 till its India rubber-like toughness causes it to begin 
 to break instead of spread out. Then stop and let 
 it lose its springiness beforekneading again. 
 
 531. Premium Family Bread. 
 
 To have bread superlatively white and fine grain- 
 ed and good besides, put the dough through the 
 preceding described kneading process three or four 
 times half aa hour apart. The dough made up stiff 
 over night should be kneaded at 4 in the morning 
 and again an hour after, in order to make good rolls 
 for breakfast. This helps to make up for the loss of 
 the thorough heatings of the sponge when the sponge 
 method is practiced. 
 
 533. Cooks and Bakers- 
 
 "Why, good heavens ! we have lost our way. But 
 what a delightful smell there is here of hot bread, 
 Andree." 
 
 "That is by no means surprising," replied the 
 other, "for we are close to the door of a baker's 
 shop." — Dumas. 
 
 Anciently, — we read in Eoman antiquities — the 
 cook and baker were one. In the hotel work of the 
 present the same rule holds. This little book recog- 
 nizes a distinction between the hotel baker or pastry- 
 cook and the shop baker. The latter seldom does 
 well when he tries hotel work. The hotel pastry- 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 131 
 
 cook going into a bakery geaeially makes the goods 
 richer than shop rules and profits will allow. This 
 book applying to hotel w iys pursues a new path and 
 is necessarily a little at variance with baker's 
 methods. If it were a baker's routine we should 
 have to describe three bucket sponges or ten buciet 
 sponges; and when the baker makes up his dough 
 he adds to his three bucket sponge about as much 
 more warm water. 
 
 This plan of adding more liquid to the sponge is 
 commendable for checking too rapid fermentation 
 — best way when loaf bread only is to be made, but 
 not for rolls or fancy breads. The bakers' ways 
 are referred to for illuBtrations for comparison 
 chiefly. 
 
 The essential points in bread making are the same 
 whether in shops, hotel kitchens, or private houses. 
 When to the baker's proper ways of wor ing, we in 
 hotels add the small amount of enriching ingre- 
 dients which they do not need and cannot afford in 
 their larger operations, we produce the extra fine 
 rolls a d extra bread, having which people think 
 they can almost dispense with everything else. 
 
 The lump of dough already prepared, smooth and 
 like an air cushion, lies in layers or flakes, and it 
 is another part of the art of good bread making not 
 to disturb them much in making up. It might be 
 hard to explain why this stringy texture preserved 
 in tbe loaves sboull make a difference in the taste, 
 but it is plain it does, and in this lies the desirablei- 
 nessof whatare known as French loaves. 
 
 633. 
 
 Baker's Cleft Rolls. 
 
 Petits Pains. 
 
 Take a portion of the dough flat as it lies and 
 without working it at all, spread it with hands and 
 roUicg-pinto a sheet less than an inch thick. Cut 
 this into 2J inch squares. Take two opposite cor- 
 ners and press them into the middle, making long 
 cushion shapes with pointed ends. Place them 
 smooth side up on baking pans with plenty of room 
 betwaen. Brush over with water. Let rise nearly 
 an hour. Just before putting in the oven cut them 
 lengthwise with a down stroke so as to nearly divide 
 the two halves. Bake in a hot oven abcut ten 
 minutes. 
 
 534. Baker's French Loaves. 
 
 The same as the preceding, of larger size. Cut 
 the entire piece of dough in about 10 pieces. Flat- 
 ten out without kneading Bring two opposite cor- 
 ners together and press them into the middle and 
 press the loaf sides together in long, pointed shape. 
 then there are two ways of proceeding. 
 
 1. Place each loaf with tbe smooth side down in 
 a flowered napkin or piece of c eaa fljur s ck and 
 set them to rise an hour that way, ia a deep pan or 
 box just touching. The oven being ready, turn tbe 
 leaf right side up on to the peel, cut it lengthwise 
 down nearly to the bottom, and sbp it to iis place 
 on the oven bottom. 
 
 2. The above plan not being couveoient to prac- 
 tice, make the leaves as befor j and place them riglt 
 side up in the usual hotel bakiug pans, brush over 
 with water, rise, cutas before, and bake ia the pans. 
 There should be plenty of room between. Brush 
 with water again when done. 
 
 The bakers pursue a method so laboiious in mak- 
 ing their flaky, stringy French loaves as would for- 
 ever deter weakly peop-e from (rjing, if ii were the 
 only way. But in this Cise kuowiedge ii lierally 
 power The dough carefully kneaded oq the table 
 in the way that has been directed reaches the same 
 condition as if it had been worked in a trough with 
 water with an immense expenditure of strength. 
 
 535. 
 
 Hotel Loaves. 
 
 The crusty cleft loaves not being suitable to s'ice 
 for the table, nor for toast, we make of the same 
 dough slightly worked, a better sort. Cut the 
 dough in eight pieces and moutd them up round, 
 but not enough to destroy the texture — only from 6 
 to 12 turns. Let stand on the table a few minutes. 
 Press them out like dinner plates. Bring over two 
 opposite edges and press them into the middle and 
 place the long loaves side by side ia ihe pans. 
 
 To Prevent Splitting at the Ends. 
 
 It is curious to obrerve that tie simple way of 
 folding the loaf just described prevents splitring 
 open at the ends in baking, while one more folding 
 in of the other two sides has often the opposite effect 
 and causes much waste of bread that cannot be 
 sliced. 
 
 It makes a thin crust to bread and the loaves to 
 part clean and even if they are brushed over with a 
 touch of melted lard when placed in the pans. 
 
 536. 
 
 Plain Rolls. 
 
 Mould the dough into little round balls and place 
 them ju-t touching in the pan?, slightly greased be- 
 tween. Rise an hour; bake 20 minutes; brush over 
 with water when done. Keep hot without drying 
 out or sweating the bottom on the iron pan. 
 
 We shall come to the more delicate sorts of rolls 
 further on. 
 
182 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 53T. 
 
 Baker's Milk Bread. 
 
 Make up the sponge and dough for this the same 
 as for common bread, but use sweet milk instead of 
 water. Its merit is its whiteness, fioe gmin, and 
 sweetness of taste like French rolls. There are three 
 essential points to be observed. 
 
 1. Beat the sponge and dough extremely well, 
 only adding the flour gradually and beating it in. 
 
 2. Have the dough as soft as it is possible to knead 
 it well, too soft to keep good shape as loaves apart, 
 and bake the loaves in tin moulds. 
 
 3. Put it in to bake after the rolls come out. As 
 it must be of light color outside and browns too 
 easily it can only have a slack oven to bake in. 
 Brush over the loaves with milk when done. 
 
 538. 
 
 Rye Bread. 
 
 The proper method with rye bread is the same as 
 with French loaves, that is, the dough is to be work- 
 ed in layers and nothing added but salt to the yeast 
 and water ; the dough made up rather stiflf to keep 
 good shape, and when the loaves are put in the 
 oven, instead of a long downward cut merely score 
 the rye loaves across diagonally three or four times. 
 
 But for hotel use, where there is no brick oven, 
 it does as well or better to make long loaves in pans 
 as already directed for ordinary hotel bread. 
 
 Some Cheap and Good Varieties of 
 539. Sweet Breads. 
 
 There is old Lindsay of Pilscottie ready at my 
 elbow, with his Athole hunting, and his "lofted and 
 joisted palace of green timber; with all kind of drink 
 to be had in burg and land, as ale, beer, wine, mus- 
 cadel, ma'vaise, hippocras, and aquavitae; with 
 wheat-bread, main-bread, ginge-bread, beef, mutton, 
 veal, venison, goose, grice, capon, coney, crane, 
 swan, partridge, plover, duck, drake, brissel^ock, 
 pawnies, black-cock, muir-fowl and caper-cailzies; 
 not forgetting the excelling stewards, cunning bax^ 
 ters, excellent cooks, and pottingars, with confec- 
 tions and drugs for desserts." — Old author quoted by 
 Scott — Waverly. 
 
 We had dinner — where by the way, and even at 
 breakfast as well as supper at (he public houses on 
 the road, the front rank is composed of various 
 kinds of "sweet cakes," in a continuous line from 
 one end of the table to the other. I think I may 
 safely say that there was a row of ten or a dozen 
 plates set before us two here. To account for which , 
 they s«y that when the lumberers come out of the 
 woods, they have a cnving for cakes and pies and 
 such sweet things, which there are almost unknown. 
 And these hungry men think a good deal of getting 
 their money's worth. No doubt the balance of vic- 
 tuals is restored by the time they reach Bangor — 
 Mattawamkeag takes off the keen edge. — Thoreau — 
 T/te Maine Woods. 
 
 So it appears from these extracts "ginge-bread" 
 has been thought worthy to be mentioned in pla e 
 in the grandest kind of a feast, and there are places 
 
 where all sorts of sweet cakes are eaten with a 
 hearty relish. 
 
 We who have to serve such kinds side by side 
 with hot French rolls need such assurances as the 
 above — seeing our sweet breads and cakes c jme 
 back egain neglected. The simpler kinds of sweet- 
 ened breads and good ginger bread seem to be more 
 acceptable in the ordinary hotel where the "balance 
 of victuals" is always nicely adjusted, than the 
 richer sorts yet to come. 
 
 540. 
 
 German Baker's Coffee Cake. 
 
 4 pounds of light bread dough. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. - 
 
 8 ounces of butter or lard. 
 
 1 egg. (Not essential.) 
 
 Take the dough at noon and mix in the ingredi- 
 ents all slightly warm Knead it on the table with 
 flour sufficient. Set to rise until 4 o'clock. Knead 
 it again by spreading it out on the table with the 
 knuckles, folding over and repeating. Roll it out to 
 sheets sca'-cely thicker than a pencil, place on bat- 
 ing pans, brush over with either water or meited 
 lard, or milk. Rise about an hour. Score the cakes 
 with a knife point as you put them in the oven to 
 prevent the crust puffing up. Bake about 15 min- 
 utes. 
 
 One of the attractions of this plain cake is the 
 powdered cinnamon and sugar sifted on top after 
 baking, the cake being first brushed with sugar and 
 water. Cut in squares and serve hot 
 
 The foregoing makes a sheet of cake large enough 
 to cover a stove top. 
 
 541. 
 
 Pic-Nic Bread. 
 
 Another form of the coffee cake, cheap and good 
 for school pic-nics and the like, and for sale. 
 
 Mix a few ra'sins or currants in the German coffee 
 cake dough. Roll out pieces to the size of dessert 
 plates and half inch thick, brush over with a little 
 melted lard, double them over like large split rolls. 
 Rise and bake like bread, and brush over with a 
 mixture of water, egg, and sugar. 
 
 Currant Buns —Chelsea Buns. 
 542. Washington Buns. 
 
 Hot for supper. No eggs required. Favorite 
 sort and quickly made. This makes 45. 
 
 4 pounds of light bread dough. 
 
 8 ounces of currants. 
 
 8 ounces of softened butter. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 It is soon enough to begin these 2 hours before 
 supper. Take the dough from the rolls at say 4 
 o'clock. Spread it out, strew the currants over and 
 knead them in Roll out the dough to I inch sheet. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 133 
 
 Spread the butter evenly over it and the sugar on 
 top of that Cut in bands about as wide as y ur 
 hand. Roll tbem up like roly-poly puddings. 
 Brush these long rolls all over slightly with a little 
 melted lard so that the buns will not stick together 
 in the pans. Then cut off in pieces about an inch 
 thiok. Place flit in a buttered pan, touching but 
 not crowded. Rise nearly an hour. Bike 15 
 minutes. Brush over with sugar and water. Dredge 
 sugar and cinnamon over. 
 
 543. 
 
 Oommon Rusk, or Buns "without Eggs. 
 
 4 pounds of light bread dough. 
 
 6 ources of butter or lard, 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 tablespoon ful of cinnamon extract. 
 
 Take the dough at about noon and work in the 
 other ingredients. Let stand an hour, then knead 
 thoroughly At 4 o'clock knead again, mould int> 
 round balls, grease between each oue as you place 
 them in the pans. Rise an hour, bake 20 minutes. 
 Placed close together in the pans they are the ordi- 
 nary sweet ru3k8. Set some distance apart they 
 are round flat butss; maybe sugared on top and havft 
 currants or carraway seeds mixed in the dough. 
 The richer French varieties will be f.und further 
 on. 
 
 544. Yeast-Raised Gingerbread. 
 
 4 pounds cf good light bread dough. 
 
 1 J pounds of d irk molasses. 
 
 12 ounces of butter or lard. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of ground ginger. 
 
 Little cinnamon, or other spice. 
 
 Flour to work up to soft dough. 
 
 An egg or two does not hurt it. Make up by the 
 cofiee cake directions. Dredge granulated sugir 
 over the top when done. Good for supper, hot. 
 
 Speaking of gingerbread, however, the nex^, 
 although not made with bread dough, is the best sort 
 yet discovered for hotel suppers. Gingerbread is 
 inclined to be tricky and uncertain, or more proper- 
 ly speaking, stieky and uneatable, if not made wi h 
 care. Too much molasses or too much soda or 
 powder are usually the faults. This can be made 
 with buttermilk and sodi if desired. 
 
 545. Sponge Gingerbread. 
 
 Sometimes called black cake and spice cake. 
 
 1 pound of molasses. 
 
 6 ounces cf sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of butter, melted. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 6 eggs. 
 
 1 ounce of ginger. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powc-jr. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 Mel! the butter in the milk ma^le warm, and pour 
 them into the molasses and sugar, mix, add ^ggs, 
 ginger, powder, flour. Beat up well. 
 
 545 a. Fairy Gingerbread. 
 
 No eggs needed. 
 
 1 cup butter— 7 oz. 
 
 2 cups light brown sugar — 13 oz. 
 1 cup milk — ^ pint. 
 
 4 cups flour — 1 pound. 
 
 1 teifpoonful ground ginger. 
 Warm the butter and sugar slightly and rub them 
 together to a cream. Add the milk, ginger and 
 flour. It ma'^es a paste like very thick cream. 
 Spread a thin coating of butter on the baking pans, 
 let it get quite cold and set, then spread the paste 
 on it no thicker than a visiting card, barely cover- 
 ing the pan fr m eight. Ba^ e in a slack oven, and 
 when done cut the sheets immediately into the 
 shape and size of common cards. 
 
 54C5. 
 
 "Old Fashioned" Gingerbread. 
 
 1^ pounds of molasses. 
 8 ounces of butter or lard. 
 3 eggs. 
 1 ounce of ground ginger. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of soda, large. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 1 pint of hot water. 
 
 Salt when lard is used. 
 
 Melt the butter and stir it into the molasses and 
 then the eggs, ginger and soda. 
 
 The mixture begins to foam up. Then stir in the 
 flour, and lastly the hot water, a little at a time 
 Bake in a shallow pan. 
 
 The three varieties preceding do well as small 
 cakes, baked in patty pans or gem pins. The next, 
 besides doing for sheet gingerbread, can a^so be 
 mads into the plainest ginger cookies. Need brush- 
 ing over with milk to look well. Sugar or comfits 
 may be dredged on top. 
 
 547. 
 
 Soft Gingerbread -without Eggs. 
 
 1 pound of molasses. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of ground ginger. 
 
 1 teaspoonful soda and same of baking powder, 
 
 4 pounds of flour- 
 Warm the butter with the sugar and molasses and 
 beat up about 5 minutes. Mix in the soda and all 
 the rest of ingredients. 
 
134 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 It makes dough that can be rolled out and baked 
 on pans. 
 
 However, it is easy enough to make ginger cakes. 
 But the baking of them — "aye, there's the rub!" 
 There are cooks who, while the range is hot, cook- 
 ing supper, can bake gingerbread of a nice light 
 color without burn, gall, or bitterness, but 
 
 548. English Tea Cakes. 
 
 2 pounds of light bread dough. 
 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 
 12 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 eggs. 
 
 J pound of flour to work in. 
 
 I pound of currants. 
 
 Takes about 5 hours time. Mix all the ingredients 
 with the dough in the middle of the day. Let ri^e 
 till 4. Then beat the dough well with a spoon — it 
 is a little too soft to handle— and spread it thin on 
 buttered pie piates. Rise about an hour. Bake, 
 and split open and butter them. 
 
 One teaspoonful of carraway seeds will suit better 
 than the currants in some countries. Where the 
 children have been raised on "Abernethy biscuits," 
 to wit ; and know what carraway seeds are. In 
 contrary situations it hurts a hous?, and the cook's 
 sensibilities to have people picking the seeds out, 
 thinking they are dirt. 
 
 540. Hotel "French Rolls • 
 
 An Inquiry into their Origin. 
 
 Dishes worthy of special attention had ttteir name 
 and quality ceremoniously proclaimed. — Philosophi- 
 cal History of Cookery. 
 
 An uncommon dish was introduced to the sound 
 of the flute, a^id the servants were crowned with 
 flowers. In the time of supper the guests were en- 
 tertained with mu-ic and dancing, * * * 
 but the more sober had only persons to read or re- 
 peat selec! passages from books — Roman Antiquities 
 
 The kinds of rolls shown in the cut, which are un- 
 derstood to he par excellence French rolls, are of chief- 
 est interest to us in hotels, for the two reasons that 
 §T«rybody likes them — most potent consideration 
 
 where the aim and end of all endeavor is to please~> 
 and that (hey, at least, appear to J ; of American 
 origin. 
 
 I sud as much once to an old and educated Ital- 
 ian cook who had been a great traveler, but be smil- 
 ed: — "America is too young to have any cookery of 
 her own ; you can find a foreign origin for every 
 dish you have I remember seeing such rolls as 
 those on the tables at restaurants and cafis in Eu- 
 rope, when a boy, over fifty years ago" Yet at 
 last this wag but a conjecture He could not be sure 
 that what he saw were not the baker's c'eft rolls 
 mentioned some pages back, and which have no 
 greit merit over ordinary baker's bread. One of 
 the best Amercan domestic c ok-books also men- 
 iions "theclefc rolls which we so often find on the 
 tables of the city restaurants" And we still re 
 main in ignorance, even if they prove the same, 
 whether they may net have been presented by 
 America to Europe at first. The name, French r 11, 
 may be but an American application, as if it had 
 been taken for granted that whatever is admirab e 
 in cookery must be French. It is the popular under- 
 standing of a split roll or pocket-book shape that can 
 be pulled open hot, and admits a lump of butter 
 within its melting clasp, but never so far as I can 
 find out has been described in any but American 
 book sand those domestic. 
 
 The earliest dated mention of French rolls I have 
 met with in the merely cursory search which such a 
 mijor matter justifies, is the following, recently 
 republished in the Reportee from "Forney's Pro- 
 gress" : 
 
 * * * * i« A public resort known as Spring 
 Garden. The hotel attached to the premises was 
 siiuated on the late site of the Museum, at the cor" 
 ner of Ann street, (New York) In 1760 1 find the 
 advertisement of John Elkin, its proprietor, oflFering 
 to the public, 'breakfast from 7 to 9 ; tea in the 
 afternoon from 3 to 6 ; the best of g-een tea and hot 
 French rolls, pies and tarts drawn from 7 to 9 ; 
 mead and cakes.' " 
 
 This shows that French, rolls were "the thing" at 
 a date even anterior to the culminati'g period of 
 modern French cookery, before the revolution. 
 
 But the French rolls of that advertisement ; of 
 the quotation from Savarin at the opening of this 
 book, of the quotation from Bulwer at the head of 
 the next division — the French rolls of the trades- 
 people who buy them hot for breakfast of the bakers 
 in all the European towns are only little round 
 loaves — crowded into the pans so that they rise to a 
 (all shape, and taken from the oven at intervals, 
 kept smoking hot under green baize covers — made 
 a trifle richer than ordinary bakers' bread. The 
 sp'it roll shown in the picture is in all likelihood an 
 American improvement 
 
 In "Quenliu Durivard" (chap, iv) Sir Walter 
 Scott gives the most explicit information in this re- 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 135 
 
 g»rd. At the breakfast — "There wai a delicate 
 ragout, with just ih&t petit point de V ail which Gas- 
 cons love and Scottiahmen do not hate. There wjs 
 <ho most exquisite white bread, made iuto little 
 round loaves called boules, (whence the bakers took 
 their French name Boulangers) of which the crust 
 was so inviting that, even with water alone it would 
 have been a delicacy. But the water was not 
 alone ** 
 
 The probability that split rolls are an American 
 improvement is strengihened by the apparant ab- 
 sence of any mention of tbem in the best foreign 
 cookbooks. Seeing how suitable the shape shown 
 in the cut is for saadwicbes one would have expect- 
 ed Jules Gouflfe (about 1860) to adopt it instead of 
 this circumstantial direciion for • 'rolls with foie- 
 gras ;" he says, "Taie 24 small French rolls of an 
 oval shape, 2\ inches by 1^, rasp the rolls and sit 
 them open lengthwise without separating them ea- 
 tirely." The Cuisine Classique directs much the 
 same way, to cut oflE" the tops of roll and brioche, 
 (sort of butter rolls) and remove the inside crumb, 
 for sandwiches and timbales. So a!so the "Modern 
 Cook," (1840) and, later, '-Model Cookery," which 
 only directs to make French rolls in long shapes 
 placed side by side. A number of leaser works 
 cither ignore French rolls a togethrr or treat the 
 making up in round balls as a matter of course. 
 
 On the contrary, the writer of these lines worked 
 with a man, A. Nels m byname, making bo.h the 
 shapes shown, as far back a 1850, on one of the dd 
 time, high-living floating palaces of New Orleans, 
 and found them then as ever since the most popular 
 of all. The man's home was at Nashville, Tenn. 
 Judging from his age and experience aad his un- 
 conciou3ne3S of there being any novelty in this sort 
 of rolls it seems fi.ir to assume that he had been used 
 to them for ten or fifteen years before. Some four 
 or five years after I saw the same in Cincinnati and 
 Evansvi le, under the name of Parker House rolls 
 Since then in numerous American publications they 
 may be found ca led by those and other names — 
 Tremont House rolls for one. 
 
 Mr. Charles Wood, for an ordinary lifetime baker 
 at the Tremont House, Boston, drawn out in reply 
 to a newspaper paragraph crediting him with the 
 origination of /VencA rolls in this country — mean- 
 ing the split rolls shown in the cut— only dates back 
 the making of his pattern about twentj-six years, 
 and explains that Mr. Paran Stevens required him 
 to make rollslike some he had seen on a European tour 
 Mr. Wood does not in his published lei ter say that the 
 rolls he produced were the s^ me as the Europem, 
 but only that after several months trial he produce < 
 what satisfied Mr. I'aran Stevens — who may still 
 kave had in mind the French brioche^ or even the 
 
 c'eft rolls whose texture is in flakes and coils, and 
 their merit being individual loaves. 
 
 It appears that (he general hotel and traveler's 
 understanding of the term is by no means univer- 
 sal. Let us n ake rolls French, accordiag to the 
 European unders'anding, and never so good, if they 
 be round, tall, oval, oblong or twisted, some person 
 will send tbeoi back, and looking at the bill-of faro 
 will say bring him some French rolls. And another 
 great lover of bread will say, "these are all very 
 we!1, but you ought to see the French rolls they 
 have at — " some other house. Nevertheless a letter 
 from Russia published 'n the Reporter two years 
 ago remarked how much better the dedicate soft rolls 
 there were "than the French, which are nearly all 
 crust.'' 
 
 These Russian rolls were doubtless the same as our 
 "French." Puzzled by these diverse ideas I 
 wrote to the Royal Baking Powder Co., who had ex- 
 hibited the making of "Vienna Rolls" with powdpr 
 at the Centennial, in Philadelphia, and the pres - 
 dent kindly answered with drawings showing for 
 French rolls, the cleft crusty loaves of the bakers — 
 directions for making which bave already been given 
 at length — and their Vienna rolls were in shape 
 like those, plain ones, in our picture. There is a 
 remark in one of the higher-class cook-books recent- 
 ly published, that hot breads for breakfast and sup- 
 per are but little used except in the West. Accord- 
 ingly our hotel French rolls are no: described in it at 
 all. And yet the Parker and Tremont Houses are 
 in the East, and Boston people everywhere are exhib- 
 iting their rolls to the heathen with pride. Are those 
 Boson hotels to be regarded asderiving much of their 
 fame from the introduction of this peculiar institu- 
 tion where before it was unknown? As an example 
 of how a thing nay haxe various names in difl"er- 
 ent Jocilities : Last year a Canadian hotel steward 
 who went West and conducted a first-class house, 
 well knew the merit and importance of fine rolls, 
 yet so little acquainted with their usual name that 
 he had them printed on his bill-of-fare "buns." So 
 without really appearing on the bill at all, the s lit 
 ro Is experienced an increasing demand from three 
 or four hundred to over eight hundred at a meal, 
 and so it went till abo-it the time the third batch of 
 supper and breakfast bills were to be printed, when 
 the pastrycook ventured to intimate that "buns" 
 were very rarely called for, but the "no names'*-^ 
 the French rolls which did not appear at all upon the 
 bill were having a tremendous runail the same. Then 
 the name was printed right. It is not to be inferred 
 that the hotel steward was ignorant, but only that 
 these rolls were not familiarly known in the section 
 whence he came. 
 
 Perhaps nine out of ten of the people outside the 
 circulatijg intelligence of our hotels, if agkrd tht 
 
136 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 meaning of the term "pocket-book roll," would 
 guess it to mean a roll of five and ten dollar bills — 
 sometimes called greenbacks, and sometimes Spin- 
 nerisms. It is no such thing, but a roll just like 
 Those in our cut, It is a local domestic name for 
 the hotel French roll. A Western author, Miss Far- 
 man, of Michigan, so describes it and the method 
 of making, in the "Cooking Club of Tu-wh;t Hol- 
 low," in the children's Wide Awake, and speaks as 
 if the appellation were one well known and under 
 stood among home folk, although so strange to cur 
 hotel bill-of-fare. However, it must be owned, our 
 rolls are the more like a pocket-book, (with s.lk or 
 satin covers) the better t hey are made; for t here is more 
 sense in having a somewhat flat shape, not too thick 
 for a bite, than the taller form that is neither loaf 
 nor slice 
 
 Through all the foregoing, and many other con- 
 siderations too tedious to mention, I have arrived 
 at the suppositions that French rolls, as understood 
 by commercial travelers and other hotel frequenters, 
 are of American origin; that they were evolved out 
 of the competition between Boston hotels ; that 
 they were first a specialty of the Parker House, 
 that thence tbey spread rapidly to wherever there 
 was good livirig, because the travelling people went 
 braogiyg about them, and that they have found their 
 way like pilgrims and strangers into the domestic 
 world, contentedly taking any pet name that may 
 have been thrust upon them. All of which is re- 
 spectfully submitted. 
 
 650. 
 
 However that may prove tobe, I would advise that 
 rolls of any other shape be denominated on the bill- 
 of fare simply hot rolls, and the term French roll, 
 in American hotels, should always be understood to 
 mean a split roll like these shown. 
 
 French RoUs. Parker House, Tremont 
 House, or Pocket-book RoHs. 
 
 Sacred heaven ! what masticators ! what bread ! 
 — Quentin Durward. 
 
 "Well," said Mr. Copperas who, occupied in fin- 
 ishing the buttered cake, had hitherto kept silence, 
 "I must be oflF. Tom,— I mean De Warens,— have 
 you stopt the coach?" 
 
 "Yees, sir." 
 
 "And what coach is it?" 
 
 "It be the Swallow, sir." 
 
 "0, very well. And now Mr. Brown, having 
 swallowed m the roll, I will e'en roll in the Swallow 
 — Ha, ha, ha I At any rate," thought Mr. Copperas 
 as he descended the stairs, "Aehas not heard that 
 before." — Bulwer — The Disowned. 
 
 Perhaps we, behind the scenes in hotels, take 
 different views of what is important, from the ma- 
 jority of people. With the matter in hand, fur 
 instance. Individuals, or a family, va^j never even 
 see a hot roll on their table, and ye never realize 
 how unfortunate they are. The "sour grapes'" phi- 
 losophy may help them, and they believe hot rolls 
 are not wholesome, anyway. It is really of no con- 
 sequence in isolated cases. But when a whole hotel 
 full of people show a decided liking for rolls, so that 
 they could not well enjoy a meal without, does not 
 the increased size of the matter justify our case? 
 There are lean times, too, in hotels, when the meat 
 is poor, game out of market and spring lamb not 
 come in ; when poultry almost disappears and 
 oysters are no more ; neither choice vegetables nor 
 new fruits have arrived. Then the regulars grow 
 discontented and seek new pasture — at the restau- 
 rants where sliced baker's bread is set before them 
 — at the opposition hotel where, whatever else they 
 may try to have, the rolls are unwholesome wads of 
 dough, or dry and unpalateable biscuits and grimy 
 cakes. Then the regulars return to their pr per 
 homes like good boys, and say it is all very well 
 over there, but they doa't have good rolls — and 
 w th such rolls as these they can almost dispense with 
 everything else. In such cases may not the pastry- 
 cook claim a right to loom up tall and exalt his 
 trade? 
 
 551. 
 
 French Rolls. 
 
 For about 60 split rolls. 
 
 3 large cups of water or milk. 
 1 large cup of yeast. 
 
 1 ounce of salt. (A heaping tablespoon.) 
 
 2 ounces of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of lard or butter. 
 
 4 pounds of fl )ur 
 
 Set sponge at 8 in the morning with half the flour. 
 
 At 12 or 1 add all the enriching ingredients and 
 work up stiff. 
 
 All the detailed instructions for making the dough 
 and kneading it the right way have been given 
 already under the head of common bread. 
 
 Afer the 4 o'clock kneading proceed to make the 
 dough into rolls. 
 
 Persons in practice find it quickest to pull off 
 pieces of dough of right size and mould them up 
 instantly. 
 
 1. Others cut off strips of dough, roll them - in 
 lengths and cut these up in roll sizeso 
 
 2. Mould them up round with no flour on the 
 beard and only a dust on the hands, and place them 
 
THE ABCERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 187 
 
 in regulf rows on the table — the smoothest side 
 down 
 
 3. Take a little rolling pin — it looks like a piece 
 of new broom handle — and roll a depression across 
 the middle of each, as in the cut. 
 
 4. Brush these over with the least possible melt- 
 ed lard or butter, using a tin-bound varnish brush 
 for the purpose. 
 
 5. Double the rolls, the two -buttered sides to- 
 gether as seen in the cut below, and place them in 
 the pans diagonally, with plenty of room so they 
 will not touch 
 
 6. Brush over the tops of the rolls in the pans 
 with the least possible melted lard again and set tl em 
 to rise about an hour — less or more according to 
 temperature. 
 
 7. Bake in a hot oven, about 10 minutes. Brush 
 over with clear water when done. 
 
 Keep baking at short intervals and keep hot with- 
 out drying out. 
 
 The particular feature of these rolls, it is seen, is 
 the folded shape, allowing them to be opened when 
 done, and this is the result ofbrushing over with but- 
 ter. Rolls placed close together in pans will part clean 
 and entirely separate wherever they have been so 
 greased between in the making. 
 
 The preceding receipt producing fine French rolls, 
 good enough for anything, the next are no-names. 
 The addition of eggs and butter does not make a vast 
 diflFerence, but still makes them creamy colored and 
 crisp. 
 
 And if a body choose to name either of the two 
 for some favorite hotel, need any other body kick? 
 Possibly their name may be Parker, Tremont, Re- 
 vere, Brunswick, French, Clarendon, St. James o^ 
 Windsor rolls. Who shall decide or prove what 
 they are? 
 
 552. No-Name Rolls. No. 1. 
 
 553. No-Name Rolls. No. 2. 
 
 3 large cups of milk. 
 1 large cup of yeast. 
 3 ounces of sugar. , 
 
 3 yolks of eggs. 
 
 4 ounces of butter, melted. 
 1 ounce of salt. 
 
 All the flour the fluids will take up, or ^ pounds 
 Make up either sponge or stiff dough, as may be 
 most convenient. The latter way is best at night. 
 All the ingredients may be put in at once, but the 
 milk should not be made too warm in summer, when 
 the dough has to be made 12 hours before wanted. 
 
 Ricl\,est. 
 
 3 cups of sweet milk. 
 
 1 cup of yeast. 
 
 6 ounces of butter, melted. 
 
 6 yolk s of eggs. 
 
 3 ounces of sugar, 
 
 1 ounce of salt. 
 
 All the flour it will take up — or about 5 pounds. 
 
 A larger proportion ofyeastmay beusedin winter 
 The dough ought not to want coaxing under a 
 stove to rise. Our yeast made from good stock 
 brings the dough up fast enough anywhere in a 
 warm room, and bread thus easily raised is alw ys 
 the best and sweetest. Half yeast to half milk or 
 water is better thao too little. 
 
 If these pockel-book shaped rolls are such general 
 favorites, why are they not universally adopted and 
 found everywhere? The directions a little way 
 back numbered 1 to 7 explain the reason why. 
 
 These rolls are very tedious to make and take 
 up one person's time from all other kinds of bread. 
 When business is dull the pastrycook makes them in 
 great perfection for the few people, but as soon as 
 the house begins to fill up the work begins to 
 crowd and the tedious split rolls are discon- 
 tinued just at the time when they are really 
 needed and would do most good. The reme- 
 dies are, to leave out the unimportant kinds and 
 give the time to these, and where it is impossible to 
 give these rolls the 5 or 6 handlings, rather than 
 abandon, cut them out instead. To do this, roll the 
 dough to a sheet as if for biscuit. Brush over with 
 melted lard. Cut out and double over. French 
 rolls made without yolk of egg will come out the 
 smoothest-looking when baked, if made that way. 
 
 554. 
 
 Butter Rolls. 
 
 Sometimes called tea cakes, and also Sally Lunn. 
 
 2 pounds of light bread dough. 
 1 ounce of sugar (a spoonful). 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 3 yolks of of eggs. 
 
 1 teacup of milk or cream. 
 
 1 pound of flour to work in. 
 
 Take the dough, already light, 4 hours before the 
 meal, and mix in all the ingredients. Let rise 2 
 hours. Knead, then make the dough into round 
 balls and roll them flat. Brush over with melted 
 butter and place two of the flats together, one on the 
 other. Press in the center. Rise an hour, and 
 bake. When done, slip a thin shaving of fresh but- 
 ter inside each and brush the top over si ghtly, too. 
 Should be made very small if to serve whole, or as 
 large as saucers, to cut. 
 
138 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 555, 
 
 Fancy Twist Rolls. 
 
 For variety's sake a fey simple shapes should be 
 practiced, besides the plain, round and oblong kinds 
 
 TWIST ROLLS OR COFFEE CAKES. 
 
 550. Sandwich Rolls. 
 
 1 pound of puff-paste. 
 
 2 pounds of French roll dough. 
 
 Roll out in thin sheets, separately, place one on 
 the other, fold over in three, like pie paste, and roll 
 out thin. Fold over and roll out once more ; then 
 cutout and butter and fold over to make pocket- 
 book rolls, or else in round biscuits. Rise and bake 
 same as rolls. When no pie paste on hand, butter 
 miy be spread and rolled into the dough with the 
 same effect. 
 
 557, 
 
 Finest Hotel Bread. 
 
 Sometimes called Vienna bread, and French bread. 
 
 Make the dough by the receipt for French split 
 rolls, and knead it several times accordiog to the 
 extended directions already given for common bread. 
 
 This makes bread so white and fiae that it vies 
 with the napkins on the best appointed tables, and 
 elicits admiration from the most f istidious. It is a 
 feather in the hotel baker's cap when very particu- 
 lar, excellent and discriminating housekeepers out- 
 side, send to beg a loaf of this extra fine bread for 
 their company days. That's the on y sort of pre- 
 miums hotel fellows are ever allowed to win. Re- 
 member, this bread should be kneaded 3 or 4 differ- 
 ent times, at intervals apart. 
 
 558. Doughnuts for the Million. 
 
 A regular Cape Cod man with whom we par'eyed, 
 *■ * * he looked as if be sometimes saw adough- 
 n r, but never descended to comfort — too grave to 
 laugh, too tough to cry, as indifferent as a clam. 
 
 * * * He stood in front of us telling stories and 
 ejecting tobacco juice into the fire right and left. * 
 
 * * At breakfast we Lad eels, buttermilk ca.e, 
 cold bread, green beans, doughnuts and tea 1 ate 
 of the apple sauce and the doughnuts, which 1 
 thought had sustained the least detriment from the 
 old man's shots. — Thoreau — Cape Cod. 
 
 Why does everybody laugh when there are d ugh- 
 Buts in the case? Even Thoreau, who laughs but 
 Mldom. There is a pleasant little piece about 
 
 doughnuts in the Congressional Record, that was 
 spoken by a Pacific coa t senator— it is too long to 
 repeat here— and it is said all the senators laughed 
 at that. But if we place on the board some royal 
 doughnuts, perhaps the original kind wi h their 
 original Germ»in name A;rojt?/e7i— krapfen with apricots 
 or wiih cheese, or flavored with orange flower water, 
 it loo^s as if it will be bard to find the fun that 
 dwells in native doughnuts, and, essentially, that is 
 all these are, though they have appeared in regal 
 bills-of-fare. 
 
 559. 
 
 German Puffs. 
 
 1 pound of light bread dough. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 ounces of sugar. 
 ^ cup of milk. 
 
 10 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 J pounds of flour. 
 
 Little salt. 
 
 These can only be made the soft, light yellow 
 puff-balls they ought to be, by a strict and thorough 
 method of working the ingredients together. 
 
 Take the dough 6 hours before the meal and mix 
 in the butter, sugar, milk and salt. Set in a warm 
 place awhile, then thoroughly beat together. Add 
 two yolks at a time and flour by littles alternately, 
 beating against the side of the pan. Then turn out 
 the dough and knead it on the table. Set away to 
 rise about 3 hours Knead the dough twice more, 
 as directed for rolls, but more thoroughly, till air 
 will snap from the edges when pinched Mould out 
 in little balls. Brush these over with melted lard 
 to prevent hardening outside. Rise half an hour 
 or more on greased pans. Fry in sweet lard. May 
 be sugared over or served with sauce, or as dough- 
 nuts, cold. They soak grease if raised too much 
 
 560. 
 
 "Little Pittsburgh" Doughnuts. 
 
 These are doughnuts with a little history attach, 
 ed — but let us make them first. 
 
 4 pounds of light bread dough. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar and syrup mixed. 
 
 2 eggs. 
 
 2 or 3 ounces of lard, melted. 
 
 Powdered sugar to dredge over. 
 
 Lard to fry. 
 
 Take the dough from the breakfast rolls, say at 9 
 in the morning, in Winter. In Summer the dough 
 worked up at mid-day will do. Mix in the ingre- 
 dients, let stand half an hour. Work up stiff with 
 fl jur sufficient, and set to rise about 4 hours. Then 
 knead, and roll it out to a sheet. Brush over the 
 whole sheet of dough with very little melted lard. 
 Cut out with a two-pound tomato can, and cut out 
 the middle of each with a little empty two ounce 
 ground cinnamon can. This makes rings, which 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 189 
 
 must be set to rise on greased pans about ^ hour, 
 then dropped ia hot lard. Sift sugar over when 
 done. They cook in about 5 minutes. 
 
 When Leadville first began grinding in crowds of 
 mining men poor, and grinding them out rich, the 
 poor men as thej went in were often hard put to it 
 for something to eat, and they never laughed at a 
 doughnut, but treated it with respect. As saloons, 
 boarding houses, clothing stores, stables, theatres, 
 and even saw-mills and wood yards hastened to c ill 
 themselves the "Little Pittsburgh," for the very fa- 
 mous mine which was at first ihe life of the camp, 
 the bakers did likewise, and the makers of the pre- 
 ceding excellent doughnr.ts finding them a sort of 
 bonanza as yet undeveloped, hastened to call them 
 Little Pittsburghs, too. Purs ing this vein they 
 went o J and advertised extensively. You could get 
 a Little Pittsburgh doughnut for ten cen's at anj 
 hour of the day or night, and a glass of dried-apple 
 cider for the same price ; but in a commutation 
 arrangement you could get a d ughnut and a glass 
 of the cider together for fifteen cents. So Little 
 Pittsburgh doughnuts became a part, and indeed, a 
 leading feature of the camp. They were in two-line 
 local notices scattered all through the papers, so 
 that nobody could miss them. It seemed, in fact, 
 as if all^the news was gathered for the express pur 
 posf of drawing attention to doughnuts. One day 
 it would be : 
 
 *'Two hundred and fifty thousand dollars has 
 been oflFered and refused for the Chrysolite mine." 
 And as a sequel : 
 
 "There's noihiugin camp can equal those Little 
 Pittsburgh doughnuts." Or, perhaps : 
 
 "Our esteemed fellow citizen fell down a shafi 
 600 feet deep, last evening. He struck on his head 
 and probably never knew what hurt him." 
 
 "0 1 those Little Pittsburgh doughnuts are so 
 very fine, if you try them once you'll buy them 
 every time, at the Union Bakery." 
 
 So, although the doughnuts were alwayn the same, 
 there was always somethicg fresh and pleasant to 
 give them a new zest Sometimes it would be only 
 a hanging, or a midoight garroting, but the chorus 
 of doughnuts kept right on at the end of every per- 
 formance, great or small. As a consequence these 
 doughnuts had a great run. It is hard to fathom 
 motives. Perhaps some people ate them fur spi-e, 
 trying to abolish them and their "damnable itera- 
 tion," but of course that was useless, there were 
 plenty more where these came from. They were 
 placed in a tentative way on the best hotel tables, 
 and they took — or at least the people took and par- 
 took. Evidently the=e Little Pittsburghs were pop 
 ular with all. 
 
 But the halcyon days of ten-cent dcughnuts were 
 Bhort and few, for soon competition came and began 
 cutting them out wi h three-pound tomato cans in- 
 
 stead of two-pound, making them so much larger. 
 Not satisfied with that, other competitors left out 
 the eggs and half the t-ugar and sold &> five cents. 
 There wa=i no margin to pay fur advertisir g ia that. 
 Little Pittsburgh doughnuts weakened and c<me 
 down and the advertising c ased. None may know 
 what subtle conLectiun there may be in the cases, 
 but both the Leadville newspapers soon after died, 
 and the Little Pittsburgh mine itself experienced a 
 temporary collapse. I think it would have paid 
 both the papers and the mining company to have 
 gone on advertisi?)g the doughnuts at bed-rock 
 pricrs, or even free, for when they left them out 
 they left out the spice of the paper, and as the dough- 
 nuts had boosted Little Pittsburgh i' would only 
 have heen fair for Little Pittsburgh to boost- but it 
 is useless moralizing. 
 
 The next are the cheap, light-colored and large 
 doughnuts that knocicd the bottom out of the rich, 
 brown Little Pittsburghs. 
 
 561. Cheapest Doughnuts. 
 Made without Bggrs. 
 
 4 pounds of bread dough 
 
 6 or 8 ounces of sugar 
 
 4 ounces of butter or lard 
 
 Make same way as the preceding. Take care to 
 have the sugar all well dissolved, and having knead- 
 ed the dough very thoroughly do not let the dough- 
 nuts rise much, lest they poak up grease. 
 
 50S. 
 
 Bread Doughnuts. 
 
 Oaly plain dough, or French roll dough. Cut out 
 bi:«cuit shapes, let rise, and fry. These . re very 
 of; en found at railroad lunch stands ; nearly as 
 cheap as bread and butter, and very saleable. 
 
 There is a suspicion of tautology in '^the direction 
 sometimes given to fry in hot lard ; however, that is 
 the shortest way of saying the lard should be already 
 hot. 
 
 5G3. 
 
 Some KruUers. 
 
 The cakes at tea ate short and crisp. — Goldsmith, 
 
 Cruller, KruUer. Old English, crull, curled; 
 crule to curl. German, kruUe, something curled. 
 
 A curled or crisped cake boiled in fat — Webster. 
 
 The bakers for doughnuts, but women should 
 make the crullers every time. Too heavy a hand 
 with the sugar and, worse still, with the baking 
 powder will make them a burning disgrace, a greasy 
 sain upon hotel cookery. Besides, only women 
 know how or have patience to curl crisp crullers 
 into wonderful knots, twirls, twists and ringlets. 
 
 The primitive form of cruller is plain beaten 
 biscuit dough, rolled extremely thin and cut into 
 ribbons, then fried. A handful of sugar added to 
 the dough makes a better kind, and many are the 
 
140 
 
 THE AMEBICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 people in the d'^mestic world who would not give 
 them in exchange for any more cake-like varieties. 
 For hotel supper tables, to change with dough- 
 nuts, the following are the best. 
 
 564. 
 
 Crullers. Best and Quickest. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 3 or 4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 Large half pint of milk. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 4 eggs. Salt. Nutmeg flavor. 
 
 Mix the powder in the flour. Dissolve the sugar 
 in the milk, add the eggs, and the butter melted, 
 salt and flavor. Pour this fluid mixture into the 
 middle of the flour and mix up like biscuit. Cut out 
 and fry right away. A quick way to shape them 
 is to cut in rings with a double cutter, having a small 
 cutter in the middle, and another way is to cut the 
 thin rolled sheet in bands with a paste Jagger, and 
 divide that into pieces like three fingers attached at 
 one end — or like a fork head. Sugar over when 
 done. 
 
 These crullers take twice as much time to fiy as 
 doughnuts. 
 
 565. 
 
 Richest Crullers, or Pried Cakes. 
 
 Good to keep, to send to folks by stage or express, 
 or to pack up for a fishing party or a mountain 
 climbiog. Don't put any baking powder in them. 
 
 12 ounces of powdered sugar. 
 
 6 eggs. Flavoring. 
 
 Half cup of milk. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 Mix up like cake, by creaming the butter and 
 sugar together, then beating in the eggs and milk 
 and flour. Roll out, cut in shapes and fry. 
 
 In addition to the foregoing, it may be useful to 
 remember, all the rusks, buns and brioches can be 
 fried as dougnuts when there happens to be more 
 dough than is needed to bake. 
 
 566. 
 
 Albany Rolls. Vienna Rolls. Delavan 
 Rolls. 
 
 Make good roll dough with the finest flour and 
 knead it well in layers as already directed for other 
 varieties. 
 
 The milk bread dough is understood to be the 
 proper article, but the hotels where milk can be had 
 for bread-making must be very few, and no person 
 not otherwise informed can tell the difference be- 
 twixt that and our French roll dough. 
 
 1. Mould out little balls as for split rolls. 
 
 2. Roll these out in shape of plates, and very 
 thin. 
 
 8. Fold these by bringing over two opposite 
 
 edges and making them meet in the middle, and 
 then bring over the other two edges likewise, mak- 
 ing a square piece of folded dough. 
 
 4. Roll this out a little flatter, brush over with 
 melted butter or lard, and fold over like other split 
 rolls. They are square ended instead of half moon 
 shapes. 
 
 This is the slowest and most tedious of all shapes, 
 but the rolls are almost as flaky as pie paste. 
 
 56T, BRIOCHE AND RUSKS. 
 
 For Breakfast, Lunch and Tea. 
 
 Perhaps you want to know what sort of a break- 
 fast one gets at Young's. I wii^h this was an essay 
 on housekeeping, so that every point could be en- 
 larged upon. But the same wonder comes up at 
 every notable restaurant, why people can't hive just 
 as good eating at home every day and why they 
 never by any possibility do so. Why the dining- 
 room cannot be as coo', as orderly and spotless, the 
 melon as crisp, the saiai as fresh and piquant, the 
 cutlet as brown without, as melting and juicy with- 
 in, or the bread and butter as perfect as that at 
 Young's, will always be remarkable to any one con- 
 demned to domestic interiors. — Boston Letter in N. 
 Y. World. 
 
 Dust unto dust; what must be must. 
 If you can't get crumbs, you had best eat crust. 
 
 — Old Song. 
 
 She would talk of the last tragedy with the em- 
 phatic toneof aconpois eur, in the same b.eath that 
 she would ask, with Maria Antoinette, why the poor 
 people were so clamorous for bread when they might 
 buy such nice brioche for two-pence apiece — Bulwer- 
 Pelham. 
 
 The above allusion to brioche appears in nearly 
 the same words also in one of Dumas' prefaces — 
 "Louise de la Valliere"' — I think, but the solecism 
 circulates with the point upon other articles of diet 
 as well; as in one place the surprise is that poor 
 peasants should prefer potatoes to meat, and only 
 last month, in a magazine, it waa a ''French prin- 
 cess," and "chicken broth " 
 
 So far as living on the best of bread goes, there 
 need be no reason why people condemned to do- 
 mestic interiors should have to suffer from the com- 
 parison with those in hotels and restaurants, for 
 after the details of the simple art of making it, set 
 forth in these columns, there is only needed dili- 
 gence and a proper degree of pride in the resulting 
 product. 
 
 The English are corrupting our language dread- 
 fully. They call our crackers biscuits; our biscuits 
 they call Scotch scones; our muffins, if they have 
 them, seem not to be called muffins, for thit name 
 is given to a poorer sort that is baked on'akind of 
 griddle, and in like manner they call our rusk buns, 
 while fresh and hot, and only accept them as T-usks 
 when sliced and dried brown in the oven. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 141 
 
 Brioches and French rusks, the half dozen varie- 
 ties of hot breads which seem to be popular'y associ- 
 ated with those names in the United Slates, ars un- 
 surpassed for the afternoon teas which are becoming 
 fashionable, and for lunch, and for French break- 
 fasts of bread and cofifee 
 
 We find *'brioche, with cheese," and wiih fruit, 
 a- so forming parts of a course ia some "royal'' din- 
 ner menus. 
 
 At the great meat, fowl, fish and potato suppers 
 and breakfasts of American hotels, these kiuds seem 
 to find no proper place. They are well worih prac- 
 ticing, however, for more domestic occasions, and 
 have always been considered the highest test of 
 skill in bread-making. 
 
 508. Brioche, or Butter Rusks. 
 
 1 pound of good, lively, roll dough. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 2 ounces of sugar. 
 
 Half cup of milk or cream. 
 10 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Little salt. 
 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 They require 5 hours time to make, raise and 
 bake. 
 
 Warm the butter, sugar and cream, with the 
 dough, together in a pan, and then mix thoroughly. 
 Beat in the yolks, two at a time, and most of the 
 flour, gradually bringing the mixture to a smooth, 
 yellow dough. Then knead it thoroughly, and after 
 that set it away to rise. In about three hours knead 
 the dough the second time, and an hour after knead 
 once more, then make out as direct ed for French 
 rolls and notch the edges with a knife, to make the 
 shape shown in the cut of rolls. 
 
 They rise and bake in the same time as rolls. 
 Brush over with butter when done. 
 
 560. The Many Uses of Brioche. 
 
 It being eminently French, and every French 
 cook mailing briuche by a diff'erent receipt — usu- 
 ally with more butter than the foregoing — as might 
 be expected, this unsweetened kind of cake figures 
 considerably in French cookery. One says it is a 
 spongy kind of cake resembling Bath buns. An- 
 other says it should be rich, yellow and like a 
 sponge, whence it tikes its name. One mixes rai- 
 sins, currants and shred citron in it for lu ch atd 
 tea bread, and makes it in various fancy shapes and 
 twists, also in large cakes. Another bakes the 
 dough in f jrm of round rolls, cuts off" the top, takes 
 out the crumb and fiJa with chicken or other meat, 
 or, bakes iu little moulds like oval gem pans, re- 
 moves the inside and places in the shell or timbale 
 thus made a cooked bird with its gravy and dishes a 
 pyramid of these on a napkin. Still another steeps 
 
 slices of brioche in orange syrup and fries them in- 
 closed in batter as fritters; and at a costly and ele- 
 gant dinner given in New York, on last Christmas, 
 "brioche crusts, with fruit" appeared among the 
 pastries But the following sweet varieties might 
 be employed for that. 
 
 One poinr in bread making that, like hand- 
 moulding, can only be learned through practice is 
 the right pitch of lightness to be allowed. Some 
 stress has been laid on the lightness, sponginess and 
 large size of rolls and loives, because of the aver- 
 sion we all have to heavy bread, which is ruinous 
 to health. The inexpericLcd are cautioned against 
 running to the other extreme There is a point 
 when the rolls have reached a certain height they 
 begin to settle out of shape and to crack open. A 
 little before this is the time to bake. 
 
 Butter rusks of our pattern should open and curl 
 backwards in baking, therefore should not be 
 brushed over with butter when panned as rolls 
 are. 
 
 5tO. 
 
 French Sweet Rusks. Richest. 
 
 The receipt for making these is inquired for at 
 peaces where they are made in perfection, perhaps 
 oftener than any other. They are cakes rather 
 than bread ; very showy, and never fail to attract 
 notice. Fhould only be attempted with the strong- 
 est yeast or lightest dough, as they are otherwise 
 slow to rise. The art to be acquired through prac- 
 tice is to make them elastic and pleasant eating, not 
 clammy like half-baked bread. 
 
 1 pound of light dough. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 6 yolks and 1 whole egg. 
 
 Ila'f cup of milk. 
 
 Flavoring as indicated below. 
 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 If for afternoon tea, take the dough from the 
 breakfast rolls, and six hours before the rusks are 
 wanted place it in a pan with the bulter, sugar and 
 cream. Let all get warmed through and the butter 
 softened, then mix them thoroughly. Next add the 
 eg s and flour by littles, alternately, beating the 
 mixture up against the side of the pan, to make it 
 smooth and elastic. Spread the last handful of 
 flour on the table, knead the dough as for rolls, 
 pressing and spreading it out with the knuckles, 
 and folding it over repeatedly. Set it in a warm 
 placefjr2or 3 hours. Then knead it the sec- 
 ond time. Every time the dough is doubled on it- 
 self the two edges should be pressed together first. 
 When the dough of this and of the brioche receipt is 
 good and finished it looks sil'ay, and air will snap 
 from the edg^ when it is p-nched. After this !•»■ 
 
143 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 tmd kneading the dough should stand an hour and 
 then be kneaded once more and made into shapes 
 The smaller notched bhape in the engraving of rolls 
 is perhaps the best for these. Do not brush over 
 the tops with butter lest they run out of shape. Ri e 
 in the pans 1 J hour?. Bake in a slow ovea fif ee: 
 miautes Brush over when done with sugar, egg, 
 and water, mixed and flavor with vanilla, and 
 dredge granulated sugar over. 
 
 A little flavoring may be added ia the dough ; 
 either vanilla extract, vanilla and rose mixed, or- 
 ange or nutmeg ; but for a nice variation grate in the 
 rind of one or two lemons and squeeze in some of 
 thejuice. 
 
 If to be made overnight without light dough for a 
 start, all the ingredients can be mixed at once bj 
 taking a pint of yeast and half pint of milk — or 
 nearly all yeast — adding ail the other articles atd 
 flour to make soft dough. 
 
 6Y1. 
 
 French Sweet Rusks. 
 
 Best Every-day Sort. 
 
 2 pounds of light dough. 
 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Large half cup of milk. 
 
 Flour to make it soft dough. 
 
 5TS. English, or Hot Cross Buns. 
 
 1 pint of "liquor" — being half yeast, half water or 
 mlk. 
 
 1 teasjTOonful of salt. 
 4 ounces of sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of butter, melted. 
 
 2 eggs— or 4 yolks, better. 
 Nutmeg or other extract. 
 Flour to mal,e s( ft, dough. 
 
 Mix up everything at once. Manage according 
 to extended directions f r rusks. Make into round 
 balls flattened. Brush over with syrup when done. 
 
 But then rusks will still be dry rusks or "tops and 
 bottoms," according to some understandings of the 
 term, and hotel pastry cooks are often called on to 
 make them at pleasuring places,for wine parties, and 
 fur ou'-door occasions. 
 
 5Y3. 
 
 Brussels Rusks. 
 
 Take, for preference, the dough made by the re- 
 eaipt for rusks designated as the best every day 
 sort, and when finished make it ii long loaves and 
 bake in tin moulds of bric'i shape. When a day 
 old sllct these and brown the slices in the oven. 
 
 Brioche dough is used in the same manner as the 
 above, and also with carraway seeds mixed in. A 
 teaspoonful does. 
 
 5T4. 
 
 Marlborough Rusks. 
 
 Make the one pound common sponge mixture — it 
 has already been twice given in the book of pud- 
 dings—and add thereto one ounce of carraway seeds 
 Rake in long, narrow moulds. When a day old 
 slice, a d brown the slices in the oven. These 
 crisped slices can be kept a long ) ime, and serve 
 much the same purpose as sweet crackers. 
 
 575. Russian Wine Rusks. 
 
 This and the next succeeding kind want the same 
 skill in making that sponge cake d . es. 1 hey belong 
 properly to the department of cakes, and may be 
 used as such as well as in the form of dry rusks. 
 
 14 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 8 ounces of almonds. 
 8 ounces of unbolted flour. 
 1 teaspoonful of almond extract. 
 
 Cru>h the almonds with the rolling-pin on the ta- 
 ble without removing the s' ins, and then mix them 
 with the half pound of graham flour — which should 
 have the coarsest bran sifted away from it before 
 weighing. Beat the sugar and eggs together in a 
 cool p'ace about half an hour. When perfectly 
 light acd thick sfir ia the flavoring and the flour 
 and almonds. Bake in long, narrow moulds. Slice, 
 and brown the slices ia the oven. 
 
 5TO. 
 
 Anisette Rusks. 
 
 8 ounces of granulated sugar. 
 10 eggs. 
 
 4 ounces of alnoonds. 
 
 6 ounces of flour. 
 
 A quarter ounce of anise seed. 
 Mince the almonds as fine as possible, and without 
 taking ofl* the skins. Mix them and the anise seed 
 with the flour dry. Then beat the sugar and eggs 
 quite light, as for sponge cake, and lightly stir in 
 the flour, etc. Bake in long and narrow moulds, 
 and when a day old slice, and brown the slices on 
 both sides in the oven. 
 
 Muffins, Waffles, Gaufres, Flapjaok» 
 
 At last, to be sure, Mr. Warri-igton burst into a 
 loud laugh. It was when the poor chaplain, after 
 a sufficient discus^sion of muffins, eggs, tea, the news, 
 the theaires, and S) forth, pulled out a schedule of 
 his debts — Thackeray' s Virginisaiu. 
 
 There were piping hot wheaten cakes — no Indian 
 bread, for the upper part of Maine, it will be re- 
 membered, i^ a wheat country — him and eggs, and 
 shad and salmon, tea sweetened with molasses, and 
 
THE AMEHIOAN pastry COOK. 
 
 143 
 
 Bweet cakes incontradistinctioa to the hot cikes not 
 sweetened, the one -white, the other yellow, to wind 
 up w th, Such we found was the prevailing fare, 
 ordinary and extraordinary, along this river. — Tho 
 reau-The Maine Woods. 
 
 Beauiiful evening I For thee all poets have i ad a 
 song * * We love to feel the stillness, 
 where all, two hours back, was clamor. * * 
 We love to fi!l our thoughts with speculations on 
 man — even though the man be the muffin man. — 
 Bulwer-Paul Clifford, 
 
 5TT. Englisli Comraon Muffins. 
 
 Baked in rings on a huge griddle and carried 
 around lo customers, from the shops. Simply a 
 common bread sponge of the cheapest, the muffins 
 being puled apart and toasted, almost invariably, 
 before they are eaten. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 1 quart of mixed water and yeast. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 Mix the above together carefully, to have no lumps 
 in it, at mon. The water should be warm and the 
 sponge set to rise in a warm place. At about 3 
 beat the sponge thoroughly, and the longer the bet- 
 ter, with spoon or paddle, and let rise again. Beat 
 up again before using. Set tin ring^ the size of 
 saucers on the griddle, half fill them wi h the batter, 
 let bake light b-own on the bottom, then turn them 
 over and bake the other side. The batter should be 
 thicker than for pancakes and thinner than frit- 
 ters. 
 
 The preceding being the cheapest made for sale, 
 private parties make richer qualities with milk and 
 a little shortening. 
 
 The Boston muffin man had a name for some kind 
 of a hot breakfast and tea cake which the great 
 word-catcher dictionaries have failed to rake in. 
 The word was pyflit; his painted sign read "Muffins, 
 
 Py flits, Oatcakes, Goff^ers, Made Here by ." 
 
 His place was a red brick, private house on Li- 
 quorpond street — of course everybody knows Li- 
 quorpond street, Boston — it leads into High street 
 on the north and the Witham river runs at the back 
 of the old brick stores on the further side of that, 
 and the river itself is as lively as a street when the 
 tide is up, although its channel to the sea is only 
 maintained by means of bundles of wicker stuff, 
 like the Mississippi jetties. The muffin man used 
 to start out punctual to the moment, morning and 
 evening, and cry "muffins and py flits"— and them 
 only, so his literary customers must have known 
 what "pyflits" meant. In that they had the advan- 
 tage of these columns. In saying literary custo- 
 mers we only give honor where honor is due, for 
 Boston has always been famous for literature and 
 good hotels. The Roberts Brothers were located in 
 Narrow Bargate, opposite the "Red Lion Inn " 
 
 They used to issue a compendium with their alma- 
 nac, and tried to p'ease the Middlemarch [ eople and 
 "I'ly over" John Noble, the other bok eller, by 
 leaving out the horse-doctoring matter and s gns of 
 Zodiac, and putting in fine pictures from the art 
 union instead. These Roberts', strikln r into a new 
 path right through the fences of old custom, were 
 both young men. But of the hotels, the "Peacock" 
 was the one patronized by the American travellers. 
 (Hawthorne's England and Italy.) The "Rei 
 Lion" was frequented, principally, by "Cripps, the 
 Gamer," and the "White Hart" by the farmers, and 
 the "White Horse" by market people. Boston stee- 
 ple, that most remarkable landmark, towers, an 
 architectural glory, into the world of rooks t nd 
 crows, three hundred feet above these all. It can 
 be seen thirty miles out at sea, and from Lincoln 
 Minster, thirty miles the other way. But of course 
 every Bostonian knows of the presence of this great 
 tower, although he may never raise hia eyes to look 
 at it so common, nor care to remember old John Cot 
 ton, the preacher. Bat the Boston muffia man with 
 his mysterious py flits, not to be found ia the una 
 bridged, was an object of more immediate interest. 
 The people "off the Skelligs," and John Halifax, 
 Getit, should know whatpyfli'S are, but as for us we 
 can only jump to the mild guess that they must have 
 been crumpets under an ancient name. 
 
 578. 
 
 Cheapest Yeast- Raised Batter Cakes 
 
 Without Eggs 
 
 English Crumpets. 
 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 1 quart of warm water. 
 
 1 cupful of yeast. 
 
 1 basting-spoonful of melted lard. 
 
 1 *• " of syrup 
 
 1 small teaspoouful of salt 
 
 Mix all the ingredients together like netting sponge 
 for bread — with very cold water if made over night 
 for breakfast, or else 6 hours before the meal with 
 warm. Beat thoroughly both at time of mixing and 
 just before baking. 
 
 Such cakes as these, baked rather dry and not too 
 thin, are made and sold in shops which have no 
 other business but these and muffins in all the 
 cities. 
 
 The "crumpets" are commonly toasted in their 
 native lands. 
 
 5 TO. 
 
 "Wheat Batter Cakes. ! 'Flannel" Cakes. 
 
 2 pounds, or quarts, oCflour. 
 2 quarts of warm water. 
 
 1 cup of J east. 
 
 1 basting-spoonful of syrup. 
 
 4 ounces of melted lard. 
 
 4 eggs. Salt. 
 
 Mix the flour into a sponge with the yeast and 
 
144 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 water, either over night or 6 hours before supper. 
 An hour before the^meal add the enriching ingredi- 
 ents and beat well, 
 
 580. 
 
 Baking Powder Batter Cakes. 
 
 Mix up, just before the cakes are wanted as in the 
 preceding receipt, but without yeast. Just bafore 
 you begin to bake add two or three large teaspoon- 
 fuls of baking powder, take the large wire egg 
 whisk and beat the batter thoroughly — a vast im- 
 provement. 
 
 Hotel cooks probably have dififerent estimates of 
 the public likes and dislikes from other and domes 
 tic peoples*. Their opportunities are dififerent. The 
 conditions are dififerent. The restraints are re- 
 moved from the people who eat, and they indulge 
 their tastes without the hindrances of economic 
 considerations. The cooks know no individuals, 
 but as the tide comes and goes they learn what the 
 tide of humanity likes to consume the most of For 
 instance, one favorite article which is not found half 
 often enough is graham cakes. 
 
 581. 
 
 Graham Batter Cakes. 
 
 1 pound of graham flour, not sifted. 
 1 pound of white flour. 
 1 quart of warm water. 
 
 1 cupful of yeast. 
 
 2 eggs. Salt. 
 
 *2 ounces of syrup. 
 
 2 ounces of melted lard. 
 
 Set the batter as a sponge like other yeast-raised 
 cakes, either over night or 6 hours before supper, 
 and add the enriching ingredients an hour before 
 baking. 
 
 And, anything for a change, sometimes your peo- 
 ple take streaks, and the prevailing fashion is fo 
 rice cakes. 
 
 583. 
 
 Rice Batter Cakes. 
 
 One heaping cofifee cup of raw rice makes the fol 
 lowing quantity: 
 
 1 quart of cooked rice. 
 1^ pints of m'lk. 
 1 pound, or quart, of flour. 
 1 basting-spoonful of syrup. 
 4 to 6 eggs. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 2 " " baking powder. 
 
 Mash the dry-cooked rice in a pan with a little of 
 the milk, which should be warm, (ill there are no 
 lumps left, then add flour and milk alternately, keep- 
 ing it firm enough to work smooth. Add the other 
 ingredients and beat well. Buttermilk and soda 
 can be used if desired, instead of powder and sweet 
 nulk. 
 
 583. 
 
 White Bread Cakes- 
 
 1 pound of bread crumbs. 
 12 ounces of flour. 
 
 3 pints of water or milk.^ 
 
 4 eggs. Salt. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Remove all the dark crust from the bread, and 
 then soak it in a quart of the water several hours, 
 with a plate to press it under. Mash smooth and 
 add the flour, the pint of milk or waer, eggs and 
 powder. It always improves batter cakes to beat 
 the eggs light, before mixing them in. No shorten- 
 ing nor syrup needed for the above. 
 
 584. d-raham Bread Cakes. 
 
 Make like the preceding, with part graham flour, 
 and the crumbs of graham bread 
 
 Corn cakes will be found, with other preparations 
 of corn meal, near the end of this book. 
 
 Speaking of the way the English mis-call things, 
 there is a very pretty London cook book malting the 
 remark that something in the batter cake line is 
 baked J|on a "girdle" in Scotland, where "gird- 
 les" are in common use, but as they are itlle 
 known in England the cake must be baked on the 
 stove plate. The idea of calling a griddle a girdle 1 
 The griddle is in common use in New Jersey, but is 
 little known in York State. And if no griddles in 
 England what do they do for buckwheat cakes ? 
 Dreadful supposition — perhaps they have none 1 
 Time for somebody to start American kitchens over 
 there. So that is the reason why Scotland is apos- 
 trophized as 
 
 "Land o' cakes I and John o'Groates," 
 And barley bannocks; and England is not honored 
 wiih any such title — how can she be, with no ''gird- 
 les ', What is home without a "girdle ?" Her 
 people are emigrating. 
 
 585. 
 
 Buck-wheat Cakes. 
 
 2 pounds of buckwheat flour. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 
 1 cupful of yeast. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 1 large basting-spoonful of syrup. 
 
 1 " " " of melted lard. 
 
 Make a sponge or bat'er, overnight, with the 
 warm water, yeast and flour. In the morning add 
 the enriching ingredients, beat up well and bake 
 thin cakes oq a griddle 
 
 The great mgority of people prefer buckwheat 
 cakes with about a fifth part corn meal mixed with 
 the buckwheat. And twice as much shortening as 
 above will please them better. No eggs need ever 
 
THE AMEBIOAN PASTBT COOK. 
 
 145 
 
 be used with buckwheat. 
 
 After the first mixing with yeast some of the bat- 
 ter may be saved and used instead of yeast for seve- 
 ral succeeding days. A teaspoon ful of carbonate of 
 soda may then be needed to bg mixed in the batter 
 n the morning, but cakes made that way, for some 
 reason, are more palatable than with sweet yeast — 
 care being taken to proportion the soda to the de- 
 gree of slight sourness. 
 
 The neatest way to grease the cake griddle is with 
 a piece of ham rind cut oflflargefor the purpose, and 
 the batter should be poured from a pitcher, or a can 
 having a coflFee pot spout. 
 
 Where the smoke and smell is an objection the 
 cakes can be baked just as well without grease, not 
 only on soapstone griddles but on iron ones as well, 
 if they be rubbed with a cloth after every baking, to 
 keep them polished. We do not insist on the adop 
 tion of the cleaner plan, because cakes half fried 
 are eaten tv ith a better relish than the others — and 
 hotel cooks are not expected to be reformers. 
 
 68T. 
 
 Goffers are gaufres, and they are wafers, or thin 
 cakes, whence waflles, which are, or used to be, 
 called also soft wafers. But thin cakes were of more 
 than one sort. Almond gaufres and some others 
 are a kind of candy cakes, thin and crisp. Flemish 
 gaufres are our waffles, but made so rich that they 
 are used as a pastry dish for dinner with jellies and 
 marmalades. They are also used in all their rich- 
 ness for breakfast, where expense is no object, but 
 can hardly come under the head of breakfast bread 
 in ordinary. The next receipt is the happy mean 
 which just suits. 
 
 588. 
 
 Hotel Waffles. 
 
 3 pounds of flour. 
 
 3 pints of milk or water. 
 
 1 pint of yeast. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar or syrup, 
 
 8 ounces of melted lard or butter. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 10 or 12 eggs. 
 
 If for supper make up a sponge at noon, plain, 
 with flour, water and yeast. At 4 o'clock add the 
 enriching ingredients, beat up well.andlet rise again 
 till 6, then bake in waffle irons. 
 
 580. 
 
 Waffles for Early Breakfast. 
 
 The waffle batter of the foregoing can be set over 
 night with cold water, but it saves making a sepa- 
 rate sponge when there ^is roll dough ready in the 
 morning to take 2 pounds of the dough and work in 
 the butter melted and a little of the milk made 
 warm. Let stand a few minutes, then beat smooth, 
 
 adding the rest of the articles, and in an hour it will 
 be ready to bake. 
 
 690. 
 
 Waffles with Self-Raising Flour. 
 
 Or with baking powder, or buttermilk and soda 
 
 2 pouods of flour. 
 
 2 quarts of milk (nearly.') 
 
 4 whole eggs. 
 12 yolks. 
 
 8 ounces of butter, melted. 
 
 1 basting-spoonful of syrup. 
 
 1 tea spoonful of salt. 
 
 Powder, 2 teaspoonfuls if common flour be used. 
 
 Mix up just befcre the meal, like battercakes 
 gradually, with the milk in the middle of the flour 
 to avoid lumps The eggs should be thoroughly 
 beaten. 
 
 501. 
 
 Flemish Waffles, or Gaufres. 
 
 Very rich and delicate when directions are fol- 
 lowed. This is only half the quantity of hotel waf- 
 fle receipt : 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 2 cups of milk. 
 1 cup of yfast. 
 
 1 cup of thick cream. 
 
 8 ounces of butter, me' ted. 
 
 12 eggs. Salt. 
 
 1 ounce or spoonful of sugar. 
 
 Set a sponge over night, or else 6 hours before the 
 meal, with the flour, milk and yeast. In the morn- 
 ing separate ihe egg% beat the yolks light and add 
 to the sponge, together with the sugar, butter and 
 salt. Beat up well, let rise an hour. Then whip 
 the cup of cream and stir in, and lastly the whitte 
 of eggs beaten to a froth. 
 
 593. 
 
 French Sweet Waffles, or Gaufres. 
 
 Made without yeast. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 14 eggs. Salt. 
 
 1 pint of milk. 
 
 1 pint of cream. 
 
 1 ounce of butter, melted. 
 
 ^ cup of brandy. 
 
 Separate the eggs. Mix flour, sugar and salt dry, 
 in a pan. Beat yolks and milk together, pour them 
 in the middle and stir to a bat'er, smooth and with- 
 out lumps. Then add the brandy and melted but- 
 ter. When about to bake whip the plot of cream to 
 a froth and mix it in, and then beat the whites up 
 firm acd add likewise. Bake soon, whi'e the mix- 
 ture is creamy and light. >Vhea the batfer must 
 stand and wait during a long meal a little baking 
 powder should be beaten in after the lightness of 
 the cream and egg-whites has evapor ted. ThU 
 
140 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 makes fine pancakes as well. 
 
 593. 
 
 As a rule, for those who would excel, it is well to 
 
 remember that white of eggs makes waffles and pan- 
 cakes tough and leathery unless added in the form 
 of froth, which cirries fine air bubbles into the bat- 
 ter. When not so beaten the cakes will be belter 
 with the whiles left out altogether and powder used 
 instead, along with the yolks which alone give the 
 richness. Just such fine distinctions as these well 
 observed make the diflFerence betwixt fine cooks and 
 those who loaf, out of employment, on street cor- 
 
 Baking Waffles. 
 
 594. 
 
 Waffles, it must be owned, are the terror of hotel 
 cooks in ordinary positions, chiefly because people 
 will persist in laking waffles just before they begin 
 the me«il, waffles for the meal, and more waffles just 
 after the meal, making nine hundred orders of 
 waffles for three hundred persons. But as waffles 
 make a house popular and are a means of distanc- 
 ing competition hotel stewards and proprietors often 
 find it good policy to look upon waffles without 
 prejudice, and provide for their extensive manufac 
 ture by furnishing the proper waffle range, thus 
 gaving a hand and no end of confusion, waste, 
 smoke, inconvenience, profanity and disappoint- 
 ment. Of course this applies to large business. A 
 stove and the common waffle irons may do very well 
 for fifty persons — the guage of these receipts. 
 
 Sweet waffles burn so easily that they cannot be 
 baked fast. When waffles do not brown fast enough 
 add lugar or syrup. The only remedy for waffles 
 sticking to the irons is to keep the irons in constant 
 use with scraping and rubbing out with lard while 
 hot, and avoid letting them burn with nothing in 
 them. To bake waffles, pour in one side a spoonful 
 of melted lard, shut up and turn over the iron two 
 or three times and then place a spoonful of batter 
 in each compartment. Shut and turn over to the 
 fire frequently till both sides are brown. 
 
 595. 
 
 Rioe Waffles. 
 
 1 quart of dry cooked rice, 
 
 IJ pints of milk. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 4 eegs. Salt. 
 
 10 yolks. 
 
 1 basting-spoonful of butter. 
 
 1 " ** of syrup. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Mash the rice with the milk, mix up like rice 
 batter cakes. 
 
 But to divert attention from waffles it is only 
 
 necessary to announce clam pancakes. And surely 
 they are a Yankee invention and of local fame only 
 at that, for nowhere in print, not even on clam can- 
 labels can such a dish apparently be found. This 
 is the route by which clam pancakes have reached 
 these columns: A number of pleasure-seeking peo- 
 ple occupying the broad piazza and the hundred rus- 
 tic chairs at a hotel in the shadow of Pikes Peak, 
 between dancing and promenading and the pause in 
 the music got to talking about the sea-side and per 
 consequence about clams. There was one among 
 them who had travelled on the staff of the Grand 
 Duke Alexis, and speaking of various persons' likes 
 and preferences it came at last to "0, clams plain are 
 all very well, clam fritters, clam stew, clam patties, 
 but leaving out chowder there is nothing made of 
 clams equal to our Yankee clam pancakes". 
 
 "Why cant we have them here?" 
 
 "Why of course we can." 
 
 It is (rue Pikes Peak is a long way from Glamdom 
 but canned clams do very well. The cook had to be 
 instructed, and after that still ventured to ask 
 "What do you eat with them?*' "Butter and syrup, 
 just like any the other batter cakes," 
 
 596. 
 
 Olam Panoakes. 
 
 2 cans of clams (2 lb. size). 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 1 pint of the clam liquor 
 
 1 pint of milk. Salt. 
 
 10 yolks of eggs. 
 
 4 ounces of butter, melted. 
 
 A spoonful of syrup. 
 
 1 heaping teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Cut or chop the clams a little larger than beans. 
 Mix the batter as for other batter cakes, add the 
 clams at last, and bake on a griddle. 
 
 There is a biographical dictionary across the 
 street, but no use looking in that for Sally Lunn. 
 Who was she? A muffin peddler? Some common 
 body, else she would not have been called Sally. 
 Perhaps a female "good fellow," who invitf d folks 
 to take a cup o' tea. Maybe a vi lage Hampden or 
 a Howard, or a female Cromwell guiltless of any- 
 body's blood, yet a great backbiter. But "no fur- 
 ther seek her merits to disclose;" she might turn 
 out to have been like a certain Aunt Melissy of 
 Pennsylvania, recently sketched in a magazine, whe 
 kept boarders, was famous for her savory pot-pies 
 and doughnuts, but who sold whiskey and swore 
 terrifically. 
 
 59T. Sally Lunn Tea Cakes. 
 
 2h pounds of roll dough. 
 4 ounces of butter, melted. 
 3 ounces of sugar. 
 2 whole eggs and 2 yolks 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 147 
 
 Half cupful of milk. 
 
 8 ounces of flour. 
 
 Take (he dough from the rolls at 2 o'clock, and 
 work in the enriching ingredients — the milk warm, 
 and sugar and but(er melted in it and egga beaten 
 light — then add the flour and beat thoroughly. 
 
 1 1 makes dough too soft to handle, and like frit- 
 ters. 
 
 Rise 3 hours. Beat again. Divide in four pie pans. 
 Rise half an hour. Bake about 15 minutes. They brown 
 very easily; are not so good when allowed to become 
 too light ; should be brushed over with good butter 
 when done. Cut in pieces like pie, but carefully, 
 with up and down strokes of a sharp kni'"e, as it 
 spoils the cakes to crush them with a heavy cut. 
 Should be baked at intervals as the meal goes on, 
 and not svseated in the pans. 
 
 The next, and last in this division, are presented 
 as something of a specialty in breakfast breads 
 They have been very frequently complimented, 
 (always remembering that nothing can quite sup- 
 plant fine French split rolls) and once I heard thi-: 
 
 •«We have penetrated behind the scenes to see if 
 we can discover what pariicular trick it is that 
 makes these muffins so delicate, so fine and elastic 
 
 and like a sponge. We have boarded in the G 
 
 House at Louisville, the B House at Cincinnati, 
 
 the B House at Indianapolis," (these remarks 
 
 were made several years ago) "but never met with 
 any to equal these." 
 
 "We use here the finest flour, perhaps that's the 
 reason." 
 
 "No, it isn't. So they do there, and have the best 
 of pastrycooks, too." 
 
 "Perhaps you come to breakfast here at season- 
 able hours when the muffins are fresh baked and 
 hot." 
 
 "No, it is in the muffins themselves and the way 
 you make them." 
 
 Perhaps they had been used to regard hotel muf- 
 fins as dry, little, unpalateable things that would 
 grease the fingers to touch. The receipt for the sort 
 which they esteemed so much better is here given, 
 but that is not all. As was remarked about milk bread, 
 butter rusks, sweet rusks and waffles the thorough 
 beating properly performed with a cutting-under 
 motion, so as to inclose air in the batter, is quite es- 
 sential to insure fine quality. 
 
 598. 
 
 Hotel Wheat Muflans. 
 
 2} pounds of light bread dough. 
 4 ounces of but'er, melted. 
 ^ cupful of milk or cream. 
 6 yolks and 1 whole egg. 
 2 teaspoonfuls of sugar. 
 4 ounces of flour. 
 Little salt. 
 
 Take the dough from the breakfast bread at 5 in 
 the morning If French roll dough no sugir need 
 be added. Work (he butter and milk in, arid set in 
 a warm place a few minutes. Then beat in the eggs 
 and flour and keep beating a^inst the side of the 
 pan till the batter is very elastic and smooth. Rise 
 awhile. 
 
 The tin muffin rings ehould be two inches across 
 and one inch deep. Set them on a buttered baking 
 pan, half fill with thebatfer — which should be thin 
 enough to settle smooth, and thick enough not to 
 run — let rise half an hour, bake about ten minutes 
 in a hot oven. Bake small lots at intervals during 
 the breakfast. 
 
 599. MuflBlns from the Beginningf. 
 
 When no other kind is made and there is no 
 dough ready. 
 
 1^ pounds of flour, 
 
 1 pint of "liquor" — milk and yeast mixed. 
 
 Make a soft dough of the above over night and 
 add the ingredients of the preceding receipt except 
 the flour. Beat up well in the morning. 
 
 Sugar in small quantities makes bread crust 
 paper-like, ( hin and soft. Too much makes bread 
 puddingy. Yolk of eggs counteracts sugar, and 
 dries the bread out, also makes the crust crisp and 
 brittle. White of egg makes thick, tough crust 
 like leather that has been wet and dried. Shorten- 
 ing makes little difference besides lessening the 
 stringiness of well-made bread. Sweet rusks and 
 cakes are slow to rise and slow to bake. Such bread 
 as muffins and Sally Lunn usually rises too fast and 
 too much. 
 
 600. 
 
 About Baking Powder, and How Not 
 
 to Use It. 
 
 Dost thou think, because thou art virtuous, there 
 shall be no more cakes and ale ? — Twelfth Night. 
 
 After all that has been shown of the manner of 
 making the best of bread without baking powder, it 
 must be plain to see that the way to avoid the inju- 
 ries arising from baking powder adulteration is to 
 use good yeast instead. The use of powder does not 
 need tobeetiCouraged, it, like many other non-es- 
 sential articles, is good in its place, but it is the 
 lazy cook's resort; it tends to inferiority in cooking; 
 it causes an expenditure of money for that which is 
 not nutriment but which at its ver7 best is but empty 
 air and at its worst carries after the air a residue of 
 poison. And yet baking powder is good to a certain 
 degree. But how few can make bakiog powder 
 bread anything but a sorry substitute for bread ? 
 In the mining and lumbering regions and such haif- 
 civilized places where men in haste and carelessness 
 mix up a sort of biscuit, any way for the easiest, bak- 
 
:48 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 ing powder is used in such vast quantities as people 
 who liye where cooking is done might find impossi 
 ble to believe. That its manufacture must be 
 ijery profitable is shown in many ways; by the im- 
 mense number of diflferent brands, the number of 
 new and expensive ways of putting it up in pack- 
 ages, and of employing agents, traveling equipments 
 and printing and advertising, equaling the sewicg 
 machine business of patent times, or patent medicine 
 business of all times, and this without any monopoly 
 for any one. Besides the immense factories of the 
 large cities most of the small cities and outfitting 
 points of the west have firms engaged in the manu- 
 facture. Kansas City has one, Denver has two, and 
 of these one alone advertises that it ships from three 
 to four tons of powder per month to the mountain 
 towns. At the same time car loads are arriving of 
 perhaps forty different brands from the east. 
 
 Baking powder was first extensively advertised 
 for sale and generally introduced about the years 
 1845 to 1860. Flaming posters appeared in all the 
 towns calling it German yeast, or baking powder, 
 claiming that a yield of about twenty pounds more 
 bread from a barrel of flour could be had by its use 
 than by yeast raising, on the ground that ordinary 
 yeast changes a portion of the flour into air in fer- 
 mentation, and claiming for powder the effect of 
 eggs, and another saving. Chemists certificates 
 were appended to say that the powder when evapo- 
 rated in the bread left only an extremely small re- 
 mainder, and that was but chloride of sodium, or 
 common salt, and no disadvantage. 
 
 Supposing the last to be true, it is on the pre- 
 sumption that either cream of tartar or tortaric acid 
 are used in making the powder, and that they are so 
 perfectly proportioned as to exactly counteract each 
 other and banish each other in the form of air, frum 
 the bread. Otherwise a residue of one or other 
 must remain, and other acids and alkalis may be 
 used having the same or stronger eff"ects but leaving 
 still more harmful remiinders. Both before and 
 after the introduction of commercial baking powders 
 pastry cooks used to make their own. But cream 
 of tartar was found most unreliable because of lack 
 of uniformity in its adulteration. Some samples 
 would contain so much starch or worse matters that 
 four teaspoonfuls were required to counteract one 
 teaspoonful of soda. With tartaric acid ready pow- 
 dered the same difficulty was experienced. Tartaric 
 acid in crystals, powdered in a mortar at home as 
 wanted, was the only reliable recourse to avoid hav- 
 ing biscuit spoiled either one way or the other. The 
 proportions are one teaspoonful of powdered tartaric 
 acid to two of carbonate of soda — the reverse of 
 cream of tartar proportioned. The Scientific Ameri- 
 can has published a number of different formulas for 
 making baking powders. Many of the manufactur- 
 
 ers accuse others of employing cheap but injurious 
 substitutes f r soda and acid, and here is a hint of 
 another kind of deterioration. 
 
 A man came around a new western town offering 
 to sell a receipt for making baking powder which 
 was to effect a great saving to all consumers. The 
 price asked for the precious bit of information was 
 one dollar. When my turn came to be canvassed I 
 told him that knowing of quite a number of baking 
 powder mixtures already I had just fifty cents worth 
 of curiostiy left to know what he had to impart. So 
 for that sum 1 obtained the following : 
 
 EUREKA BAKING POWDEE. 
 
 Bi-carbonate of soda, 16 ounces; tartaric acid, 12 
 ounces; cream of tartar, 2 ounces; fine flour 3 
 pounds. 
 
 There is two pounds of real baking powder and 
 flour enough added to make five pounds weight. 
 Starch has more the appearance of real baking 
 powder than flour. Does not this go far to explain 
 the variations in strength and the inducements to 
 push the sale of cheap powders? Cost price of 
 flour, 4 cents; starch, 10 cents; selling price of pow- 
 der the difference. 
 
 OOl. 
 
 It being our sole business to teach how to make 
 good bread and to inquire into the nature of the ob- 
 stacles that throw us, we have no remedies to offer 
 against these adulterations other than the first men- 
 tioned, viz: to use little or none at all, and employ 
 good yeast instead. In the palmy days of French 
 cookery, when culiLary excellence was carried, un- 
 der the auspices of fashion, to an extreme never sur- 
 passed since, baking powder was unknown, and the 
 bakers' more objectionable carbonate of ammonia 
 was unthought of. The finest cakes were made 
 light either with brewer's yeast, like those at th^ 
 end of this book; with air beaten ia mechanically, 
 like our common sponge cakes; or with the fine parti- 
 cles of cold butter as in pound cake — the same agent 
 that imparts such extreme lightness to puff- paste. 
 Waffles and pan cakes at the same time were made 
 of extreme delicacy by means of white of eggs whip- 
 ped to a froth, being really a mass of air bubbles, 
 fine as snow, incorporated in the mixture, there to 
 expand in the heat of baking and raise the whole. 
 
 Baking powder is the cook's labor-saving friend, 
 but if the friend be treacherous ar.d unreliable shall 
 we not accept his good offices with caution ? All we 
 can gain from him ia gas to expand into big ho'es in 
 the bread in the oven, and a teaspoonful of soda to 
 a pint of £0ur buttermilk yields the same. Ia "old 
 fashioned" gingerbread a teaspoonful of soda added 
 to the raw molasses makes a gassy foam just the 
 and, independent of all the half dosen ways 
 
THE AMEBIOAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 149 
 
 already fihown of introducing air for lightnesa into 
 food compounds, there is the purely mechanical 
 utilization of atmospheric air of the following 
 method. 
 
 60S, Virginia Beaten Biscuit. 
 
 Old-Fashioned "Way. 
 
 There has to be a maul, or Indian club over 2 
 feet long, and a stout table, for the beating. The 
 biscuit will not be right unless you have the maul 
 made of hard maple, square-shaped at the heavy 
 end, but waving, so as to make uneven hollows in 
 the dough and a hole in the handle for a string to 
 hang it up by. 
 
 3 pounds of flour. 
 
 1 large teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 4 ounces of butter or lard. 
 8 cups of milk or water. 
 
 Have the milk tepid, mix the melted butter and 
 ealt wiih it, and wet up the flour — nearly all — into 
 8 .ft duugh. Knead it to smoothness on the table, 
 and then beat it out to a sheet with the maul, fold 
 it over on itself and beat out again. 
 
 There is no established limit to the times the 
 dough may b9 beaten out, but after a few times it 
 begins to break instead of spread. This injures it, 
 and an interval should be allowed for the dough to 
 lose its toughness. The air in the hollows beaten 
 into the dough makes it very light, and white and 
 flaky 
 
 Modern innovators on the preceding practice add 
 a teaspoonful of soda sifted into the fl jur and mix 
 up with buttermilk, beating besides in the regular 
 manner. 
 
 There are few things more generally aceptable 
 in some localities than beaten biscuit rolled out very 
 thin and fried. 
 
 So that if baking powder were banished from the 
 culinary world for the sins of its makers there 
 would still be cakes and ale as of old. If we may 
 believe the advertisements there is one brand of 
 powder that is pure and honest, but is not that re- 
 ducing our means of safety to a very slender plank? 
 For if by any accident a little of some other powder 
 should get mixed wifh that one there would be a 
 terrible state of affairs ! 
 
 Baking Po-wder Bread. 
 
 He found her presiding over the tea and coflFee, 
 the table loaded with warm bread, both of flour, 
 oatmeal, and barley-meal, in the shape of loaves, 
 cakes, Mscuits, and other varieties, together with 
 eggs, reindeer ham, mutton and beef ditto, smoked 
 salmon, marmalade, and all other delicacies which 
 
 induced even Johnson himself to extol the luxury of 
 a Scotch breakfast above that of all other countries. 
 A mess of oatmeal porridge, flanked by a silver jug, 
 which held an equal mixture of cream and butter- 
 milk, was placed for the Baron's share of this re- 
 past. — Waverly — Chap. XII, 
 
 I could write a better book of cookery than has 
 ever yet been written ; it should be a book on philo- 
 sophical principles. — Dr. Johnson. 
 
 603. Baking Powder Biscuit. 
 
 2 pounds or quarts of flour. 
 
 4 ounces of melted lard or butter. 
 
 4 teasroonfuls of powder. 
 
 1 « of salt. 
 
 1^ pints of tepid water or milk. 
 
 Mix the powder in the flour dry. Place the melt- 
 ed lard in a hollow in the middle, the salt and water 
 or milk with that, and stir around, drawing the flour 
 in gradually so as to make a smoo'h, soft d -ugh. 
 Turn out on the floured table. Press the dough 
 out flat with the hands, fold it over again and eg in 
 and press out till it is compact, even, and smooth. 
 Let stand 5 minutes. Roll out and cut into biscuits. 
 Bake immediately. 
 
 Of all the atrocious frauds in the way of bread 
 perhaps the worst is the baking-powder biscuit of 
 unskillful cooks, sometimes found iu boarding hous- 
 es and low-priced restaurants. The compulsory 
 spoiling of biscuit through excessive economy of in- 
 gredients may be pardonable in the cooks, but the 
 atrocity of spoiling them with too much richness 
 and wrong way of working, never. Such biscuit 
 are yellow, dirty on the bottom, greasy to the touch; 
 they have rough sides, no edges, for they rise tall 
 and narrowing towards the top ; they are wrinkled 
 and freckled and ugly ; they will not part into white 
 and eatable flakes or slices, but tumble in brittle 
 crumbs from the fingers, and eat like smoked saw- 
 dust. Strange, that the same materials should make 
 things so diflferent as these and good biscuit. 
 
 Biscuit dough should be made up soft. The short- 
 ening should be melted and added to the fluid milk- 
 warm, to insure thorough incorporation. 
 
 The private house way of kneading the dough up 
 into dumpling shape, perpetually breaking the 
 layers and making the parted edges take up too 
 much flour, is the wrong way that ruins biscuit. 
 The right way is given in the receipt. 
 
 604. Baking Powder Bread. 
 
 Because we in hotels are accustomed to make 
 every article as rich as is allowed it should not be 
 forgotten that shortening is byno means essential to 
 make good biscuit, and the preceding receipt f-^r 
 biscuit is just right for loaves of baking powder 
 
150 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 bread if the shortening be left out. 
 605. — — 
 
 Imitation French Rolls, with Baking 
 
 Powder. 
 
 "Vienna Rolls." 
 
 2 pouQds or quarts of flour. 
 
 4 heaping teaspooofuls of powder. 
 
 2 *' " of sugar. 
 
 1 " ♦« of salt. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls of butter or lard, melted. 
 
 2 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 large pint of milk. 
 
 See directions for biscuit and make this dough 
 flame way. After it has stood a few minutes to lose 
 its springiness make into split rolls. Cutting out is 
 the qu'ckest, and best for baking powder dough. 
 See directions for French rolls. Brush over with 
 melted lard in the pans. Let stand 20 minutes to 
 rise, if convenient. Bake as usual. 
 
 When a seidlitz, or any eflfervescent powder is 
 dropped into a glass of water the gas produced rush- 
 es to the top and immediately escapes, but if a por- 
 tion of a raw egg be mixed in the water first, or 
 some dissolved gum arable, it catches and holds the 
 gas on top in the form of froth, as in soda syrups. 
 The same effect in some degree is observable when 
 an egg is mixed in baking-powder bread. A film is 
 formed that hold^ the air, the dough may be allow- 
 ed a few minutes to become lighter, and the rolls 
 are more spongy than if made without. 
 
 Repetition, if odious to the thorough reader, is 
 unavoidable in a cook book, where people seeking 
 but one article will overlook all else. 
 
 GOO. ow Flake Rolls or Biscuit. 
 
 Another way of using powder by working it into 
 the dough. Worth practicing. Very white. 
 2 pounds or quarts of flour. 
 4 heaping teaspoonfuls of powder. 
 
 1 do do of salt. 
 
 2 basting-spoonfuls of melted lard. 
 1 large pint of milk. 
 
 Mix up like biscuit but only put in a fourth part 
 of the powder. Mix the rest with a handful of 
 flour and sprinkle it over the dough every time that 
 it is pressed out to a sheet. Knead long and well. 
 Let stand awhile. Gut out thin. They rise. 
 
 OOT. Buttermilk Sweet Rolls. 
 
 Cheap and off-hand. Often made at stage stations 
 &nd village inns. 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of carbonate of soda. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 4 ounces of sugar. Salt, 
 2 eggs and 2 yolks more. 
 1 large pint of buttermilk. 
 
 Sift the soda in the flour. Mix all the other arti* 
 cles with the buttermilk. Make up like biscuit or 
 Vienna rolls. Glaze or sugar over when baked. 
 
 The yellow specks in the crust for which the soda 
 is blamed are oftener due to the particles of curd of 
 sour milk, which brown quickly in the oven. If 
 you use "clabber," pass it through a seive first. 
 
 Corn Bread, Corn Mufllns, Batter Cakes, 
 Etc., Etc 
 
 The perfect receipts for all needful preparations 
 of corn meal appeared in these columns some time 
 ago, and can be found in their place among these 
 "breads" by means of the index. 
 
 008. Some Yeast-Raised Oakes. 
 
 There was a table covered with cakes made in a 
 variety of emblematical shapes * * * 
 representations of crosses, fonts, books, and one 
 huge cake in the centre in the form of a bishop's 
 mitre. — Dumas, 
 
 Three pounds of sugar; five pounds of rice; rice T 
 What will this sister of mine do with rice? But my 
 father hath made her the mistress of the feast and 
 she lays it on! I must have saffron to color the 
 warden pies, (pear pies), mace, dates; nutmegs sev- 
 en, a race or two of ginger, (but that I may beg); 
 four pounds of prunes, and as many raisins of the 
 sun. — Shakspeare's Winier^s Tale. 
 
 In bluff King Henry VHP 8 days * * 
 
 the seasoning of dishes was strong and pungent; 
 taffron being a predominating ingredient in them. — 
 Mary Jewry. 
 
 Large dishes of rice, boiled to perfection, fowls, 
 and meat cooked in every manner possible, all dish- 
 es highly colored with saffron^ and very much fla- 
 vored with mint- — A Persian Garden Party, 1879. 
 
 While endeavoring to observe and respect the dis- 
 tinction between solid instruction and mere opinion 
 we must say that the practice of yeast-raised cakes 
 ought to be far more general among American pas- 
 trycooks and bakers than it is. The dreary repeti- 
 tion of middling pound cake and poor sponge cake, 
 with a sorry variation or two, might with advantage 
 be broken up by the introduction of some of the sorts 
 which great cooks of old used to set before the king. 
 That was before cooks began to begrudge a little 
 work in behalf of excellence. 
 
 In the European countries where they cannot af- 
 ford to be so extravagant as we are, when there is 
 to be a festival, the first thing the managers do is, 
 go to the baker, either buy enough light dough, and 
 some notable housekeeper makes it into cheap but 
 good cake for the multitude, or else the baker him- 
 self gets the contract. In this way plum cake itself 
 becomes a cheap treat, while still richer and far 
 more delicate varieties are made for the wealthy by 
 the same general method with difference of de- 
 gree. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 161 
 
 It is conceded that some practice is necessary to 
 make these cakes perfectly, for the exact time when 
 they are ready for the oven can only be known by 
 observation. But as far as can be, the directions here 
 following will be found eflfectual, and make the prac- 
 tice easy. 
 
 600. 
 
 Scotch Seed Cake. 
 
 Takes five hours time to make, raise, and bake, 
 using dough to begin with, 
 
 2 pounds of light-bread dough. 
 12 ounces of sugar. 
 12 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 eggs. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of carraway seeds. 
 8 ounces of flour. 
 
 Weigh out the dough at 7 in the morning. Set it 
 with the butter and sugar in a warm place. At 
 about 9 work all together and beat in the eggs one 
 at a time, and add the carraway. Give it another 
 half hour to stand and become smooth, then add 
 the flour and give the whole ten minutes beating. It 
 makes a stiff batter — not dough. 
 
 Put it in two buttered cake moulds. Rise about 
 an hour. It should not be too light, bake as you 
 would bread, in a slack oven, less than an hour. 
 
 610. 
 
 Cheapest Cake Without Eggs. 
 
 2 pounds of light-bread dough. 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of carraway seeds. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 The difference between this and the preceding 
 kind is that this makes a soft dough, to be handled 
 and kneaded like bread, then baked iu moulds. 
 Brush over with a little melted lard when setting to 
 rise. 
 
 These raised cakes are like fresh bread, cannot 
 be sliced till a day or two old, without waste. 
 
 Once upon a time, so they say, an economical man 
 fitted out his cow with a pair of green glass specta 
 cles, and thus induced her to eat shavings, which 
 looked like hay. 
 
 In the warm, moist gardens of the south of Eng- 
 land the camomile flowers make pretty borders, and 
 saffron grows like a weed. An infusion of saffron 
 gives the color of eggs to cake, and the people who 
 are glad there to sell their new-laid eggs are very 
 well content with the substitute. 
 
 Perhaps saffron also gives something of the taste 
 of eggs. Italian vermicelli is colored with it. 
 
 611. Cornish Saffron Cake. 
 
 The miner's dinner-pail cake in the region of 
 Lake Superior and the Rocky Mountains, as well as 
 Penzance and Lands End. 
 
 2 pounds of light dough. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 8 ounces of butter or poultry fat. 
 8 ounces of dried cherries, or raisins. 
 Half cup of strong saffron tea. 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 Mix up like Scotch seed cal^e, manage and bake 
 same as bread. One or two eggs improves the cake. 
 
 61;^. 
 
 Election Cake. 
 
 Make the Scotch seed cake but with 1 pound of 
 seeded or seedless raisins and half cupful of brandy 
 and flavorings, and omit the carraway seeds. 
 
 613. Polish Cake. Baba. 
 
 Requires 5 hours time to make, raise and bake. 
 
 1 pound of good, light roll dough. 
 
 IJ pounds of butter. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 14 eggs. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 8 ounces of raisins. 
 
 6 ounces of currants. 
 
 4 ounces of citron. 
 
 Half cup of brandy. 
 
 Lemon and nutmeg extracts. 
 
 These cakes made with dough are all started alike. 
 Warm the dough, butter and sugar together, mix 
 and then set away half an hour, when the ingredi- 
 ents can be mixed better; then beat iu the eggs two 
 at a time and handfuls of flour alternately. Beat 
 well; rise 2 hours. Beat again, add the flavorings, 
 brandy and fruit. Line the cake moulds with but- 
 tered paper. Let the batter rise in the moulds 
 about 2 hours, then bake, about an hour. 
 
 614. 
 
 Savarin Cake. 
 
 The preceding without the fruit. Used hot as a 
 cake pudding with liqueur sauce. With dough from 
 the breakfast rolls at 7 o'clock it can be made ready 
 for midday dinner, 
 
 A French authority says Kauglauff or Kugeloff, is 
 a general name in German for all cakes made with 
 yeast. Perhaps the common term "coffee cake" is 
 but the attempt of English speaking tongues at 
 "Kauglauff." The cheapest and commonest coffee 
 cake has been described as a warm bread several 
 columns back. We now give two varieties that are 
 really rich cakes by the same name. 
 
 615. Q-erman Kauglauff. 
 
 1 pound of light dough. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 1 pound of butter. 
 
 6 ounces of sugar. 
 
 1 pound of currants. 
 
 8 whole egg3 and 8 yolks. 
 
 Half cup of milk or cream. 
 
162 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 Extract of lemon. 
 
 Ground cinnamon. 
 
 Mix up like Polish cake, the cream and currants 
 las', and rise in the moulds. 
 
 When d >ne pass a brush dipped in sugar and milk 
 over the cakes and dredge them with the ground 
 cinnamon mixed with sugar. Use to slice cold. 
 
 616. Vienna Cake or Kauglauff. 
 
 1 pound of light dough, 
 22 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 15 eggs. 
 20 ounces of flour. 
 
 Half pint of cream. 
 
 Half cup of brandy. 
 
 1 pound of almonds. 
 
 Mix up and beat and raise according to preceding 
 directions. Blanch and split the almonds and mix 
 half cf them in the cake; use the remainder to 
 stick all over the moulds with butter before the 
 dough is put in. These mixtures all make the 
 dough like fritter batter, just thick enough for al- 
 mond«, fruit, etc., not to sink, 
 
 Shrei citron or candied orange peel, pistachio 
 nuts and the like are added at option. Sometimes 
 the cakes are served hot, separated into layers with 
 a sharp knife, and jelly spread between. 
 
 617. Yeast-Raised Plum Cake. 
 
 The slowest to rise. Use the liveliest dough, and 
 in win'er it had better be saved overnight and 
 m'xed up with the main part of the ingredients; 
 add the fruit next morning, and bake after din- 
 ner. 
 
 2 p *undg of light bread dough. 
 
 1 pound of black molasses and sugar, mixed. 
 
 1 pound of butter, 
 
 6 eggs. 
 12 ouncps of flour. 
 
 1 ounce of mixed ground spices. 
 
 1 J pounds of sredless raisins. 
 
 1 pound of currants. 
 
 8 ounces of citron. 
 
 Brandy, and lemon extract. 
 
 V- arm the dough and all the ingredients slightly. 
 Mix well, except the fruit and brandy. Beat the 
 batter, aud set to rise in the mixing pan about 3 
 hours. Beat again and add the fruit, previously 
 floureJ. Line the moulds ^ith buttered paper, 
 ha'f fill and set to rise again about 2 hours. Bake 
 from one hour to two, according to size. Large 
 cakes should have a coating of paper tied outside 
 the moulds to protect the crust during the two 
 hours baking. 
 
 These cakes should not be turned out of the 
 moulds till at least one day old. 
 
 Hotel pastry cooVs wko think yeast-raised cakes 
 too teuious, should nevertheless remember that ia 
 some peaces no others are believed in, or a-lowed to 
 be made, and these are simple enough after a few 
 trials to learn the routine. 
 
 To clean seedless raisins, rub the fine stems off" 
 them with the hands and some flour mixed in, then 
 stir around in a colander till the siftings all go 
 through and leave the raisins clean. 
 
 618. 
 
 Toast and Toasters. 
 
 Excuse me, Tom, but if I have a weakness it is 
 for Yarmouth bloaters, anchovy toast, milk, choco- 
 late, marmalade, h^t rolls, and reindeer tongue * 
 * *. — Leo^ s Tom Burke* 
 
 I have remarked before that not one person in a 
 thousand knows how to make good toast. The sim- 
 plest dishes seem to be the ones oftenest spoiled. 
 If, as is generally done, a thick slice of bread is 
 hurriedly exposed to a hot fire, and the exterior of 
 the bread is toasted nearly black, * * etc. 
 Henderson. 
 
 There, you see, boys and girls, you had better 
 make that toast right and not jam it down on the hot 
 range top with gnashing of teeth bo savagely. Not 
 one in a thousand of you but knows how to make 
 toast beautifully,but you have an invincible aversion 
 to it; you think a person who will order toast a 
 monster, that to be hated needs but to be seen; you 
 want to know why such people can't eat all these 
 nice hot breads and batter cakes, and you call 
 them pet names which it will never do to put in 
 print. 
 
 Of course you think it the cook's business to make 
 toast, but that depends on circumstances, for toast 
 must be n^ade just as it is ordered, and one of the 
 cooks is busy broiling beefsteak and h«im to order 
 and another is busy dishing up side dishes and fry- 
 ing fresh potatoes. Baking cakes and waffles and 
 dishing up breads keeps another agoing, eo s me- 
 body besides must make the toast. The vegetable 
 cook might be hired with the understanding that 
 toast making was one of the duties to be performed, 
 and would do well at supper, but the two or three 
 hours of breakfast is the vegetable cook's busiest 
 time. It would not be so hard to make good toast 
 if there was a place provided for it when the hotel 
 kitchen is furnished and fitted up, but whoever in 
 such a case ever thinks of that ? Put it upon the 
 cook and he must almost perforce bake the toast by 
 panfuls in the oven, but no persons, if they can help 
 themselves, will eat that except as milk toast. The 
 broiler is full and has no room but for mea's There 
 is only the range top left available and that must be 
 kept so hot that there is little chance of being able 
 to do good baking inside at the same time. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 153 
 
 charcoal broiler aside from the meat work would be 
 placed in every hotel kitchen at the first, when 
 such expenses are not so reluctantly incurred as af- 
 ter some time of scrambling along without. 
 
 In hotels where the tcast difficulty is well over- 
 come there is ei her an extra hand from some other 
 department appointed for the duty, and the t ast 
 range or broiler k) work on, or else, in smaller 
 houses where the dining room work is not rushing, 
 the waiters themselves, preparing a little toast just 
 before he doors are opened for a start, are able to 
 make it as wanted, and to suit the special orders. 
 
 The best way where there is no special broiler, is 
 to provide half a dozen wire hinged oyster broilers 
 or toasters and lay them with the bread in them on 
 top of the hot range. 
 
 OlO. 
 
 Ooncluding Hints. 
 
 Whatsoever thy hand fiudeth to do, do it with all 
 thy might. — Ancient Book. 
 
 Things done by halves are never done right. — 
 Modern Paraphrase, 
 
 Considering how extensive is the domain of hotel 
 cookery there is no likelihood that we shall ever re- 
 cur to the items of bread and rolls again, and a few 
 omissions in the foregoing matters must be made 
 good here. 
 
 The hardest thing to teach the tyro in mixing bread 
 is to make the small quantity of dough soft enough 
 in warm weather. Fortunately, with large masses the 
 labor with s iff dough is so severe that few people 
 err that way, but a li'tle in active summer weather 
 f rmentation easily takes up too much flour and be- 
 comes rough and rotten, and all the instructions in 
 the wor d will not help the "pastry" who does not 
 know enough to temper the dough a.'cording to the 
 weather. In winter when all the materials and tools 
 are cold the stiffer the dough the better; in summer 
 use les:- yeast and mix soft. 
 
 So in mixing biscuit. I have, before now, when 
 training down the rawness of a lot of picked-up 
 summer resort help, placed all the ingredients for 
 biscuits for the early breakfast of a party of tremen- 
 dous trvut fishers, in a pan, and then a baker who 
 was a bread baker and nothing else has utterly 
 sp.iled them in ihe mixing, making them harder 
 than crackers and not half as good. Biscuit should 
 be mixed as soft as fritter batter, so that when the 
 scrapings (-f the'pan in flour and scr ps of doa^h are 
 added ii can eti'.l be pressed out easily wih the flat 
 hands till worked smooth. Whenever your biscuit 
 dough is S-) tough that the doubled fists must be 
 used ; press it out, conclude that you have made 
 the common mistake, and have something yet to 
 learn aboui mixing biscuit. 
 
 Mould out your dough for rolls in little round 
 
 hill". Easier said than done. The beginner takes 
 the pieces of dough in hand but they won't roll, but 
 skate a'l over the table instead. You must brush 
 away the flnur, have the table so that the rolls wiU 
 almost s iek to it, very slightly dust your hands 
 with flour, take two fresh, moist pieces and roll 
 them under the hands with a slight pressure. The 
 ball of the thumb draws the outside of the dough to- 
 wards the palm and makes a smooth ball. Of course 
 you must mould two at once, using both hands, else 
 you will never get ready for breakfast. Expert 
 hands seldom stop to cut off the little pieces of 
 dough; they can grab the right sized pieces for rolls 
 from the lump with both hands, as quick as wink- 
 ing. Vou injure the dough by much moulding. 
 The quicker you can get a smooth outside the bet- 
 ter. 
 
 Brush your hot loaves from the oven with water, 
 They are going to shrink as they cool, and if the 
 crust will not give, the crumb will part inside and 
 make broken slices. 
 
 The bakers have a saying that it don't matter how 
 you mould up the loaves if you make the dough 
 good. But that is only a comparative way of speak- 
 ing, and they don't have to slice and toast their 
 bread as we do, and see the rough ends and broken 
 slices go to waste by the bushel. If the reader will 
 turn back to our directions for moulding hotel loaves 
 he will find a way that makes loaves as smooth and 
 seamless as a watermelon, but it remains to say that 
 moulding the loaves round first is done in either of two 
 ways. If you are in practice with rolls you can 
 mould small loaves with both hands, the same way. 
 If not, do as the bakers do with "tin loaves" and 
 Vienna bread. The shop bakers like to make loaves 
 in tia moulds because they use for that soft dough 
 carrying much water, and gaining for them several 
 pounds in a barrel of flour. The bread so made is 
 moist to cut and to keep and does not crumble. But 
 as every loaf will expand in the oven and may open 
 at the ends like the gaping shell of a dead oyster, it 
 is the business of the moulder to form and fold the 
 loaf so that it shall open and rise just where he wills 
 it, and nowhere else. 
 
 To mould "tin loaves :" Your dough being prop- 
 erly kneaded in layers leave it lying in a rather 
 thin sheet. Cut that into the right sized squares for 
 loaves. The expert workman makes them a little 
 longer one way than the other. Take one of the 
 pi ces, press it out with the knuckles, double it, 
 mailing a square. Catch the furthest corner with 
 the extended fingers atid pull it over, and under the 
 wrists, which press it in the middle. Tura the piece 
 cf dough under the hands and reach aaother corner. 
 Six motions makes a round, smooth loaf with a mid- 
 dle depre.sion made by the wrists. 
 
 Now extend this depression lengthwise, forming 
 a trough shape by pounding and lengthening the 
 
164 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 middle with the wrists while pulling over the round- 
 ipg side with the fingers. Finally roll over the thick 
 uriher side into the hollow middle, the oiher or 
 near side forming the top lap to the rolled up loaf, 
 and place it iu the brick-shaped mould. Press it 
 down slightly in the mould to make square corners. 
 This loaf will rise the way the bakers like to see — 
 parted on one side, where the seam was left, and 
 •howling the whiteness of the inside without a break 
 in the bread. 
 
 Our pic-nic loaves described near the beginning 
 are called Stollen by the German bakers. This kind 
 of sweetened bread is often made richer with addi 
 tions of citron, etc. The bakers make up the loaves 
 as just described, only doubling the two sides to- 
 gether instead of rolling, making a long split roll 
 without any brushing with lard at all. 
 
 In addition to the names Kauglauff and Kugeloff 
 applied to the varieties of yeast raised cakes, of 
 which 5<oZZm is one,Urbain-Dubois spells it Congloff, 
 making three authorized ways, all meaning the 
 same as Polish Baba, which is a gsneral term for 
 raised cakes, and French Savarin which, according 
 to Dubois' menus serves to designate several varieties 
 of cakes. These things are mentioned as helping 
 to throw light on the mysteries of foreign menus^ 
 which "our own correspondents" in Europe delight 
 to humiliate their Western cousins with. 
 
 Now about moulding French loaves. We have 
 been unwilling to poach in the exclusive shop bak- 
 er's grounds further than the thoroughness and use- 
 fulness aimed at in our book compelled, and will 
 only add this; If you wi-h to try a more workman- 
 like WJiy than that previously set forth, commence 
 as for "iin loaves," with wrists and fingers making 
 the piece of dough into a round ball slightly de- 
 pressed. Push these aside on a well floured part of 
 the table till all are moulded. Make the trough-like 
 depression across these with a rolling pin instead of 
 the wrists, using plenty of flour, and depressing all 
 before folding any. As no lard is used and bakers 
 do not cut the loaves, the flour and the incidental 
 drying of the dough whi'e waiting, helps the desired 
 parting open of the seam when baking. Having 
 practised thus far you can double the loaves like 
 split rolls— without any greasing — and experiment 
 further at your pleasure. 
 
 In a large western city the writer knew a baker 
 who sold little French loaves (petits-pains) in quan- 
 tities that can best be described as cart loads, and 
 he made them almost as just above described. Tak- 
 ing the four corners of the little flat pieces of dougb, 
 he pressei them with the points of the fingers into 
 the midd'e, and with a blow of the edge of the open 
 hand made the roU ready for a little rolling pin de- 
 pression, making it very long and narrow, then 
 
 pinching up the two thick sides together, slightly 
 lapping one upon the other, and without any touch 
 tf lard about them, he placed them in pans so that 
 when raised and baked they opened out cleft rolls of 
 very fine appearance and of flaky texture. 
 
 Practice Makes Perfect. 
 
 Pastry cooks and bakers wishing their French 
 rolls to open up tall and lean backwards, only touch 
 a streak of melted lard on one side of the depressed 
 piece of dough, just where the lips, when the roll is 
 doubled, meet, and none on the top. This gives the 
 roll a start to open without quite making a split roll 
 of it. Different stewards and bosses having diff"erent 
 notions about how these things should be it is often 
 difficult for a young man, however willing and cap- 
 able, to get a foothold with them without the 
 knowledge of just such variations of method as the 
 above. 
 
 030. 
 
 Sorry there should be such a thing as a warmed 
 over roll in the world, but there will always happen 
 to be whole pans of the nicest rolls left over, and 
 somebody will always want breakfast at four in the 
 morning and expect hot bread. The very best way 
 to warm over .rolls, so that none but the most criti- 
 cal can tell them from fresh baked, is this : Wet a 
 clean cloth in clean water — half a flour sack, for 
 instance— and wring it out. Lay this over your 
 cold rolls and set them in the oven. In about five 
 minutes, or when the cloth is dry, the rolls will be 
 warmed through and almost as good as new. 
 
 Never, if it can be avoided, let the rolls stay in 
 pans over night — it soils the bottom crust. Turn 
 them out to dry. 
 
 If your iron pails soil the crust of the steamed 
 brown bread, it can be prevented by lining them 
 with manilla paper, lightly brushed over with 
 melted lard. The loaves come out looking as nice as 
 cake. 
 
 By (he-way, we forgot to put the cross mark on 
 the hot cross buns. It has no use, however, except 
 once a year, on good Friday, to enable British chil- 
 dren to make a few pennies by selling them, perpet^ 
 uating some old custom, nobody seems to know for 
 a certainty what. 
 
 A cross mark cut on the buns as they are placed 
 in the pans will remain and show; but if you let the 
 buns rise half light enough, then with a choppiug 
 knife cut down deep, and let the buns finish rising, 
 the depression will remain and make the buns ap- 
 pear to be in four parts. 
 
 Those bun-sellers make the **one a-penny-buns" 
 a little richer than the *'two-a-penny-buns;" and 
 they have to be a little larger, too, or else when the 
 one-a-penny-two-a-penny-hot-cross buns are all in a 
 basket together, they wouldn't know 'tother from 
 which, you know. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 155 
 
 TWENTY WAYS OF COOKING OOBN 
 621. MEAL. 
 
 "Corn is the most widely cultivated grain in the 
 world, with the exception of rice." 
 
 "As to nutritive matter, corn is only exceeded by 
 wheat, and lollowed by rice among the leading arti- 
 cles of food. Calculated according to the physilogi- 
 cal wants of the system, a week's diet for an adult 
 would only cost about twenty cents, and, excepting 
 split peas, there is nothing approaching corn for 
 economy." 
 
 "Even in the United States, where thirty-seven 
 million acres are devoted to the culture of Indian 
 corn, yielding a total product of thirteen hundred 
 million bushels, while the wheat crop of the world 
 is only seven hundred and sixty million bushels, we 
 only understand the economic value of corn as cattle 
 food." 
 
 "In buying wheat flour, the same outlay would 
 purchase double the amount of nutriment in Indian 
 meal. The prejudice against the use of corn as an 
 article of human food is based on ignorance in many 
 cases, and on false pride in others. Wheat is most 
 agreeable to the taste, and is preferred by a greater 
 portion of the human family, or, at least, by those 
 who are able to purchase it. While all the world is 
 familiar with wheat as an article of food, not one- 
 tenth of its population ever heard of Indian corn ex- 
 cept as cattle food. It is quite remarkable that not- 
 withstanding its acknowledged good qualities and its 
 economy, yet it is but little known to the people oi 
 those portions of Europe to whom cheap food is an 
 absolute necessity ; and even in times of famine it 
 has required judicious and persistent governmental 
 efforts to induce famishing communities to use it." 
 The preceding statements, taken here and there 
 from an able statistical article in the Boston Cultiva- 
 tor, suggest the conclusion that it would be a good 
 thing in a general way, if all people could be led to 
 like corn better than wheat. It is our business to 
 believe that such a consummation can be reached 
 solely through the instrumentality of the cooks ; by 
 the more general diflFusion of knowledge of the best 
 ways of using corn meal, and encouragement to put 
 in those extra careful touches which are needed to 
 make even the best receipts thoroughly successful. My 
 own experience as a cook warrants the assertion that 
 corn bread properly made and carefully baked, can 
 be made popular almost anywhere. The small loaf 
 that at first finds no takers is presently in demand, 
 and then gives place to one of twice or thrice the 
 8i?e, a proportionate amount of wheat bread being 
 thereby displaced. 
 
 That an entire community, state or nation may 
 have a real preference for corn over wheat bread, is 
 shown by the fact of the matter in the Southern 
 States, where corn bread is never out of place, even 
 at the best furnished tables. 
 
 The rich breads and puddings with which we shall 
 first lead corn meal into general favor, are not com- 
 mended on the score of cheapness, except in country 
 places where eggs and butter have but little market 
 value; but that it is a real liking for corn meal, pure 
 and simple, and not for the condiments, which ob- 
 tains among so large a proportion of the Southerners, 
 is seen from the fact that the prevailing dinner 
 bread at the most expensively provided steamboat 
 and hotel tables was formerly, and probably is yet, 
 the corn cake made of nothing whatever but meal 
 and water. 
 
 Why one section should prefer a corn diet more 
 than another when there is no consideratiion of econ- 
 omy involved at all, I have never seen fully accounted 
 for, and will venture the supposition that it shows 
 the result of tastes trained in early life by a race of 
 domestic cooks who knew how to make corn bread 
 good. What has been done can be done again. 
 
 It will not be expected that we professed cooks 
 shall dabble either in political economy or social sci- 
 ence, but I, for one, cannot help thinking that a bet- 
 ter knowledge of the ways to make corn meal a pal- 
 atable diet, difiused throughout the land, would re 
 suit in bringing the fiifteen-cents-per-bushel corn of 
 Kansas and Nebraska into its proper use — of fur- 
 nishing cheap and wholesome food and luxuries for 
 the million. 
 
 In the culinary departments of the best American 
 hotels, it is but reasonable to expect that the greatest 
 perfection in compounding American specialties will 
 have been attained. However there is only one not- 
 able instance of a large hotel becoming celebrated 
 for its corn bread, even that is nearly forgotten, now 
 that there is no more call for special commissions to 
 go and teach the art to Europe. 
 
 I have seen "going the rounds," what purported 
 to be a receipt for St. Charles corn bread, which 
 mentioned sugar as one of the ingredients, but can- 
 not consider it genuine. Difierent cooks may have 
 had diflFerent ways, but the following was the form- 
 ula in use on the floating palaces of the same day, 
 such steamboats as the Southern Belle and the Mag- 
 nolia, of the "coast" trade, and the long-trip boats 
 which made the excellence of this bread known on 
 the upper rivers. We used to bake it in cake moulds, 
 and sometimes serve it with sauce as corn pound 
 pudding; more in fun than from any necessities of 
 the case. It can be sliced thin like cake, and used 
 in many ways : 
 
 OSS. St. Charles Corn Bread. 
 
 1 pound of white corn meal (not quite a quart). 
 4 ounces of fresh butter, melted (size of two eggs). 
 1 pint of boiling water. 
 1 pint of cold milk. 
 4 eggs. 1 level teaspoonful salt. 
 1 teaspoonful of wholesome, home-made baking 
 powder. 
 
16« 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Pour the boiling water into the meal, wetting and 
 scalding it all. Then add the melted butter, salt and 
 milk, and then the eggs. Put the baking pan in the 
 oven to get hot, without greasing it. Add the pow- 
 der to the batter ; beat up with the large wire egg- 
 whisk, then pour it into the pan. The batter is as 
 thin as for batter cakes. IF the pan is hissing hot 
 it never sticks, and there is no discoloration of burnt 
 grease. This bread should be about an inch and a 
 half deep in the pan, and bake half an hour or more. 
 The sooner the top crust is formed the better, after 
 that it needs to bake slowly. 
 
 This, when done, is, of course, only corn bread, 
 but it has the peculiar characteristic, that everybody 
 likes it. But pastry cooks, generally, "hate to make 
 it." It is a little hard to bake just right. For an- 
 other sort, not too rich nor good for human nature's 
 daily food, we have the regular stand-by — the com- 
 mon hotel corn bread, which may be good or other- 
 wise, according to the skill of the maker. 
 
 OS3. Oolmnon Com Bread. 
 
 1 pound of white corn meal. 
 3 ounces of melted lard (2 large basting-spoon- 
 fuls). 
 
 1 pint of boiling water. 
 
 1 pint of cold water or milk. 
 
 2 eggs. 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 1 small teaspoonful of home-made baking powder. 
 
 Scald about two-thirds of the meal with the boiling 
 water, leaving the rest at the side of the pan to be 
 stirred in with the other ingredients. Beat the 
 powder in last, and bake as directed for the other 
 kind. 
 
 Now if corn meal was always alike there would be 
 no more to be said. But here is where the genius 
 for making corn bread comes in. Both of these sorts 
 should have a smooth crust rounded over like a good 
 pound cake. The particular point is the scalding of 
 the meal, and that varies according as the meal 
 is fine or coarse ground. I have known some few 
 neophytes who saw into the deepest depths of this 
 profound matter at the first glance, but others, seem- 
 ingly as intelligent, would slip up every time a dif- 
 ferent grade of meal came in hand. Sometimes the 
 crust would rise and crack open forty ways, like a 
 map of the Rocky Mountains, and the bread would 
 fall to pieces. That was because the meal was coarse 
 and not sufficiently scalded, or not mixed thin 
 enough Sometimes the bread would rise at first, 
 but then cave in, all but the edges, like a pond gone 
 dry, and cut like mush. That was because the meal 
 was fine ground, and would not bear scalding much. 
 White meal coarsely ground is the best. Some few 
 peopk think they like yellow meal, but as surely as 
 it IS put to the test in hotel cookery the demand both 
 for bread and mush falls otF, and both are soon en- 
 tirely neglected And yellow meal, for some reason, 
 
 soon acquires a bitter, musty taste, which may have 
 as much to do with the small liking there is for cora 
 meal preparations as any other reason. 
 
 634. 
 
 Corn Gems. 
 
 Corn gems were instituted to meet the grave emer- 
 gency that arises when more than four persons in 
 one house want a corner piece of corn bread. Their 
 other use is for corn bread in individual style. 
 
 There is no need of special receipts, as both of the 
 corn bread mixtures already given are first rate,, 
 baked in gem pans. The richest, for individual 
 loaves, should be baked in deep round pans. The 
 people who call for corner pieces like the other, baked 
 thin, to be nearly all crust. The gems should be 
 fresh baked, every half-hour, served hot and not 
 sweated in the pans. 
 
 635. 
 
 Com Meal Muffins. 
 
 The very best are made with yeast, but these arc 
 very good and can be made on shortest notice. 
 "Whoe'er rejects them must be hard to please. 
 
 And ripe for treasons, stratagems and spoils." 
 1 pound of white cornmeal (not quite a quart). 
 4 ounces of fresh butter, lard, or both mixed. 
 
 1 pint of boiling water. 
 
 1^ pints of cold milk (3 cups). 
 Half pound of flour. Salt. 
 Yolks, only, of 4 eggs. 
 
 2 small teaspoonfuls of baking powdej. 
 
 Put the shortening in a saucepan with the water, 
 boil, and scald the meal with them. Add the salt, 
 then the milk and flour alternately, then the yolks, 
 and lastly the powder beaten in well with the wire 
 egg-whisk. 
 
 Bake in greased muffin rings, 10 or 15 minutes, in 
 a hot oven. Serve hot. 
 
 The batter must be thin to make good muffins. 
 Make the pan hot on which the rings ar« placed, be- 
 fore filling, to prevent running under ; otherwise use 
 rings with bottoms. 
 
 In daily practice we learn short ways to work, 
 with fewest vessels. When the object is to thoroughly 
 scald the meal, it is not best to put the unmelted 
 shortening with it first, but the way indicated above 
 is good for all kinds of corn breads. The milk is 
 necessary to give good color in baking. 
 
 G20. 
 
 Tortillas. 
 
 Now that direct trade between Chicago and Old 
 Mexico is about to be opened, it might be as well to 
 pay a little attention to Mexican preferences, too 
 
 How romantic are all the words that come straying 
 among us from that land of the sun ! And how all 
 the Mexican story-writers, from Captain Mayne 
 Reid down, have revelled and gloried in the power 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 167 
 
 these sonorous terms gave them over the imagination 
 of their bewildered Northern readers ! Tarantula, 
 arroya, caballero, ranchero, hacienda, cuisiniero, tor 
 tilla ! It was always the tortilla that crowned the 
 closing day. The tempting tortilla ; the sweet, the 
 delicious tortilla. 
 
 But the story-writer has yet to be born with self- 
 denial enough to drop his romance and tell his won- 
 dering readers what the tortilla is. 
 
 Once I became acquainted with a Mexican youth, 
 who was a native of the ancient city of the Montezu- 
 mas. There was poetry in his name. It was Man- 
 uel de Carvalho. There was poetry in his face, for 
 he had melancholy eyes and a sentimental mous- 
 tache. His ancestors were Dons, but he, alas, was 
 but valet to an English tourist. He had been through 
 all the gay capitals of the Old World, yet nothing 
 had ever prevailed to chase the cynical expression 
 from his lips, or withdraw his thoughts from the 
 home of his early days. 
 
 And then he came to a noted pleasure resort that 
 was frequented by wealthy Southern people. And 
 on going into the bakery one day, he saw a griddle 
 full of something that caused him to stop, open- 
 mouthed, with delighted surprise ; and as soon as he 
 was sure he could believe his eyes he struck an atti- 
 tude, clasped his hands and shouted in ecstacy : 
 "Ha, ha! — Tor — theel — as!" So at last Manuel 
 was happy. And this is how the tortillas were 
 made: 
 
 Mexican Tortillas. 
 
 Mix a quart of white corn meal with boiling water 
 enough to barely wet it, and cold water after that to 
 make it like thin mush. Add a teaspoonful of salt. 
 Drop large spoonfuls on the hot griddle, and spread 
 them out to form thin cakes. 
 
 "But," you say, "your toritUas are nothing but 
 the Southern hoe cakes." Yes, that's what they are. 
 But many people like hoe cakes better if they are 
 shortened a little. 
 
 OST, 
 
 Hoe Cakes, or Com Bannocks. 
 
 2 pounds of white corn meal. 
 
 Half pound of lard. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Put the lard in the middle of the meal with the 
 salt, and pour in a little boiling water to melt it. 
 Then add cold water or milk to make like thin mush. 
 Bake on a griddle or "hoe," placing the dough with 
 a spoon and flattening out thin. 
 
 "Why cannot we have this?" 
 "You can have it." 
 
 "What 13 it folded so nicely in a napkin? 
 liki. brown bread." 
 "It is brown bread." 
 
 "And you have brown bread plenty on hand all 
 the time?" 
 
 "0, but this is not bakers' Boston brown ; tHs is 
 delicious." 
 
 That was said before the Chicago fire. 0, incom- 
 prehensible hotel boarders who live always on the fat 
 of the land and tire of it ! But in a well-regulated 
 hotel you can have anything. This is one of the va 
 rieties of bread made principally of corn meal which 
 the Boston writer before quoted, had in mind : 
 
 "On account of its lack of gluten, Indian meal is 
 not well adapted for making bread without a slight 
 admixture of wheat or rye flour." 
 
 That is the eastern idea, not the southern or west- 
 ern. 
 
 This kind of bread is very It con- 
 
 tains no shortening, except what may be conveyed 
 by rich buttermilk, when that can be had instead of 
 baking powder, and is probably very healthful eaten 
 cold. Reckless inhabitants of the hotel world, gen- 
 erally prefer to eat it right away quick while it is 
 hot. And still very few deaths occur. 
 
 Looks 
 
 es8. 
 
 steamed, or "Home-Made" Brown 
 Bread. 
 
 2 pounds of corn meal. 
 
 1 quart of boiling water. 
 
 Half pint of re-boiled, black molasses (coflfee cup 
 full). 
 
 1^ pints of cold milk. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 4 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 1 pound of graham flour. 
 
 1 pound of white flour. 
 
 Pour the water boiling into the meal and stir; then 
 mix in the molasses and the other ingredients in the 
 order as written — the powder in the flour — and stir 
 up thoroughly. It makes a stiff batter, too soft to be 
 handled. Put it in two pails with tight-fitting lids 
 and steam from 4 to 6 hours, then bake a short time 
 to form a crust. The pails should be made for the 
 purpose, of best stovepipe iron, a trifle wider at top 
 than at bottom. Brush a little lard over the insides 
 and then wipe it off thoroughly before putting in the 
 dough, and there will be no stains on the crust when 
 done. Where there is a steam chest to the range, over 
 which vegetables are steamed, the pails can be set in- 
 side in the water, and then there is nothing in the 
 bread line more easily made than this. Makes 8 
 pounds of bread ; cuts into about 4 dozen slices. 
 Enough for the average orders of 75 people for one 
 meal, there being other kinds of bread. But if you 
 have had it talked about all through the house 40 
 people will get away with this much easily. Such is 
 the effect of ad vertising. Should th e bread cut sticky, 
 use a little less liquid in mixing next time. 
 
 Our "Twenty ways" will include four baked pud- 
 
 y 
 
158 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 dings of Indian meal, of dilBFerent degrees, and this 
 following will, probably, by good judges, be consid- 
 ered the best. 
 
 "Tell that cook," said a healthy St. Louis captain, 
 his boat then laid up in the ice, "to make this once 
 more and let me know when, and then he may go to 
 heaven." 
 
 Most of us have heard something like that in a 
 sarcastic mood, but this was a jolly bon vivant, and 
 was being helped the second time, so before "that 
 cook" started to heaven, I prevailed upon him to 
 abstract and perfect out of the chaos of his guess- 
 work the following receipt. 
 
 6:39. Mohawk Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of milk. 
 10 ounces of corn meal. 
 
 4 ounces of fresh butter. 
 
 6 ounces of rebelled black molasses. 
 
 5 whole eggs. 
 
 6 yolks. 
 
 1 large lemon. 
 
 Pinch of salt. 
 
 Make mush in the usual way by bringing the milk 
 to a boil, sprinkling in the meal and beating at the 
 same time with egg whisk to prevent lumps. Stir 
 over a fire a few minutes ; then put on a tight lid to 
 keep the steam in ; push the saucepan to the back of 
 the range and let the mush remain at cooking heat 
 without burning, for two hours or more. Then turn 
 it out into a pan and mix in the other ingredients — 
 the eggs beaten light — the rind of the lemon grated 
 and the juice squeezed in. Bake about half an 
 hour, or till the egg in it is fairly set, and no longer. 
 
 This makes about 3 quarts of pudding ; enough 
 for the average orders of 50 persons. It can be 
 baked in fluted pudding moulds, and turned out 
 whole if handled carefully, where so required, or else 
 in two small pans well buttered. 
 
 A mild, neutral sauce is best with this. If hot 
 sweetened cream cannot be had try the following, 
 which is as ornamental as useful, 
 
 630. 
 
 Sauce Doree, Golden Sauce, or Butter 
 
 Sauce. 
 
 1 pound of white sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 4 ounces of best fresh butter. 
 
 2 or 3 yolks of eggs. 
 Nutmeg extract to flavor. 
 
 Boil the water in a bright saucepan. Mix the 
 starch in the sugar dry, and rapidly stir them in. 
 When it has boiled up, beat in the butter. Pour a 
 little sauce to the yolks in a cup ; beat, then mix all 
 together. Just before it begins to boil remove it from 
 the fire, taking care the yolks do not curdle with too 
 much cooking. 
 
 031. Ohickasa-w Pudding. 
 
 Brown Indian Souflle. 
 
 Perhaps not the connoisseur's pudding, but 
 thought by many to have less style and more real 
 comfort in it than any other. It is something of a 
 curiosity for its puffy lightness, and should be served 
 whole in that condition as soon as done, or else dish 
 it up, if you wish to secure for the bubble reputation, 
 out of the oven's mouth. 
 
 You will never know it at its best, unless you can 
 procure the old-fashioned, thick, black molasses. 
 
 3 pints of water. 
 12 ounces of corn meal. 
 
 1 pound of re-boiled black molasses. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 eggs. 
 
 No salt needed but what is in the butter, and take 
 care that it has not too much. 
 
 Make mush by sprinkling the dry meal into the 
 boiling water, and beating at the same time with the 
 egg whisk. When it has boiled a minute or two put 
 in the butter and molasses, stir together, put on the 
 lid and push the saucepan to the back of the range 
 to simmer about an hour. It is not very apt to burn. 
 Then turn the mixture into a pan, beat the 8 eggs a 
 little and gradually stir them in. 
 
 Bake in a slow oven about 45 minutes. Makes 
 about 2^ quarts. 
 
 Eat hot with cream, or, failing that, make this 
 sauce, which will relieve its want of color. 
 
 63;3« Lemon Butter Sauce. 
 
 Sauce Oitronne. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 2 ounces of corn starch. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 2 ounces of fresh butter. 
 
 2 lemons' rind grated and juice of one. 
 
 6 yolks of eggs. 
 
 Mix the sugar, grated rind and starch together dry; 
 stir them into the boiling water ; add the lemon juice 
 and butter, and when it boils again pour in the beat- 
 en yolks quickly and beat well. As soon as the eggs 
 begin to thicken take the sauce from the lire and 
 strain immediately. 
 
 633. Thanksgiving Pudding. 
 
 Indian Plum Pudding, Steamed. 
 
 3 quarts of milk. 
 1^ pounds of corn meal. 
 8 ounces of butter, or minced suet. 
 12 ounces of re-boiled^ black molasses. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY OOOK. 
 
 159 
 
 10 whole 
 10 yolks. 
 
 2 lemons. 
 
 1 pound of seedless raisins. 
 
 1 pound of good, clean currants. 
 
 Pinch of salt. 
 
 Make mush with the meal and milk and let it cook 
 at back of the range, with tight lid on, for 2 hours or 
 more. Then add the other ingredients in order as 
 written — the rinds of the lemons grated and juice 
 squeezed in, and eggs all beaten light together. 
 Dust the fruit with a small cup of flour. Steam in 
 pudding moulds an hour and a half or longer, ac- 
 cording to size. This makes 4^ quarts. 
 
 Butter the moulds and shake flour inside before 
 filling. Serve with any sauce suitable for English 
 plum pudding. 
 
 635. Thanksgiving Pudding. 
 
 Indian Plum Pudding Baked. 
 
 The same as the preceding, except that chopped 
 apples can be used instead of currants, or in addi- 
 tion to them, which would make the steamed pud- 
 ding too soft. Spices can be added at option. May 
 be baked in deep ornamental moulds, well buttered 
 and dusted with flour, and served with burning 
 brandy sauce. Will bake in half the time required 
 for steaming. 
 
 634. 
 
 Fatty Bread and Butteimilk. 
 
 • This entree never appeared on any bill-of-fare. It 
 is hoped that nobody will make it, it might be 
 thought too rich for good health. It is put in here 
 merely in an historical sort of way, because it is 
 strictly American and is not on record in any of the 
 French books. To be still more precise, it is an in- 
 stitution of Blackville, and the people who believed 
 in it had broad shiny faces and did not know a 
 thing about dyspepsia. Although again it is hoped 
 nobody will ever make anything so greasy anymore, 
 it has to be recorded that the boys who did not be- 
 long in Blackville had a wonderful knack of coming 
 home from squirrel shooting at sundown, just at the 
 most favorable time for snatching a portion of this 
 peculiar feast, to which the Blackville people did not 
 welcome them, and always declared it tasted better 
 than butternuts. There are many Blackvilles in the 
 United States, and the one where this dish came 
 nearest being named in French was on Bayou Black, 
 not very far from New Orleans, but you could not 
 translate the French spoken there, and, moreover, 
 •alabashes full of sugar cane juice from the mills 
 
 took the place of buttermilk, and it was not quite the 
 same thing. But there was a Blackville near that 
 large hotel at White Sulphur Springs, and Black- 
 ville near Brownsville, on Blackwater river, at the 
 Sweet Springs in Missouri. 
 
 It was only in the flush times of hog killing that 
 Blackville could indulge in this luxury ; but if com- 
 pany was expected from the opposition village, what- 
 ever its name was, perhaps the young Blaokvillans 
 with their 'possum dogs would pass a whole night in 
 the woods and fell any number of trees till they had 
 'possums enough. Because you can't make fatty 
 bread without fat, and 'possum's fat does very well. 
 
 Somebody has to churn in the morning and take 
 the buttermilk down to the spring house to become 
 cool. The rest of it is very simple : 
 
 1 pound of corn meal. 
 
 ^ pound of lard or 'possum fat. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Pour the lard, melted, into the meal, and stir in 
 enough cold water to make it like thin mush. 
 
 Spread in thin cakes on the hot stove lid, and 
 when fried on one side turn them over. If you 
 have no stove, but only a fireplace that takes in half 
 a hickory tree trunk at a time, rake out some coals 
 and bake the cakes in a spider. 
 
 To be eaten hot, with cold buttermilk. 
 
 In extreme contrast to the foregoing is the White- 
 ville variety of breai. 
 
 636. 
 
 Corn Dodgers. 
 
 The ordinary dinner bread of the South. 
 
 Take the required quantity of corn meal, say a 
 quart, and stir it up with cold water enough to make 
 it like thick mush, just so that it can be shaped. 
 Make it with hand or spoon, in shapes like goose 
 eggs, and place them almost touching in a baking 
 pan that is kept hot on top of the range while they 
 are being placed. Bake in a hot oven. 
 
 It is usually insisted upon that no salt shall be put 
 into this kind. Serve hot. 
 
 Simple as this is, some persons can make it twice 
 as palatable as others. One requirement is to make 
 the meal take up all the water it will carry without 
 losing shape. Another is to bake it in a very hot 
 oven, so that it will become brown without being too 
 dry and hard. 
 
 While everybody will agree that there must be a 
 perfection point for every common article, beyond 
 which it cannot be improved, it is hardly likely 
 that anyone will take the trouble to scald the meal 
 for batter cakes. There is not time for all these 
 little things in hotel business, and yet it has to be 
 set down that therein lies the point that beats com- 
 mon work The following will do without : 
 
160 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTB7 COOK. 
 
 63T. Com Batter Cakes. 
 
 1 pound of white corn meal. 
 J pound of flour. 
 
 3 ounces of melted lard (J cup). 
 
 2 eggs. A little salt. 
 
 1 quart of milk or water. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Mix gradually to avoid having lumps in the bat- 
 ter, add the lard, melted, and the powder last. If 
 no milk, a spoonful of syrup is required to give col- 
 or. But sometimes you have to work for thorough 
 philomaizians who love corn for itself alone and do 
 not want any flour in theirs. In that case you must 
 pcald the meal. 
 
 038. 
 
 Corn Batter Cakes "Without Flour. 
 
 IJ pounds of corn meal. 
 
 1 quart of water or milk. 
 
 4 ounces of lard. 
 
 4 eggs. Salt. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 Scald the meal with half the water, and mix up 
 the same as if for corn bread. 
 
 In all the preceding receipts where baking pow- 
 der is directed to be used, it is to be understood that 
 buttermilk and soda will do as well, if the butter- 
 milk be genuine, not watered, and sour enough to 
 counteract a small teaspoonful of soda to the pint. 
 
 G30, Theory and Practice. 
 
 Since it has become the very general custom to eat 
 one or other of the several varieties of mush as a first 
 course at breakfast and supper, the best methods of 
 preparing the simple dish so as to have it in perfec- 
 tion can no longer be considered a matter too trifling 
 for any first-rate cook's attention. Besides, what- 
 ever of consequence mush may lack in the instance, 
 it gains through diff'usion, for thousands of cooks are 
 wanted to make good mush for every one that is re- 
 quired to prepare costly and ornamental dinners; so, 
 you see, from the utility point of view, well-cooked 
 mush is a thousand times better than well cooked 
 truflHes. And if that reads like a riddle it will have 
 to go, for there is no room here to straighten it out. 
 
 When a lot of corn meal is piled into a saucepan 
 of water, not half enough for so much meal, and im- 
 patiently stirred up and served ten minutes afterward, 
 that is not mush. I don't know what it is. There is 
 no name for it. But yet there are people so possessed 
 with the idea that mush can never be cooked enough, 
 that they become crotchety, one might almost say 
 fanatical, in pursuing the other extreme. 
 
 As we may have to go to the Germans for instruc- 
 tion in German dishes, to the French when the mat- 
 ter is French, and to the English when the excellence 
 is reputedly theirs, perhaps no excuse is needed for 
 going often to the Southern States, even to plantation 
 Ufe for instances, whilst American corn meal has the 
 
 front place. Down in that land of large estates and 
 extensive operations, there used to be places where 
 from year's end to year's end the mush cauldron 
 never stopped boiling, except as it was emptied and 
 replenished once in every twenty-four hours, that 
 being the time considered necessary for the meal to 
 cook before it could become wholesome food for the 
 scores of laborers whose principal food it was. These 
 kettles, some with mush and some with hominy, 
 hung in huge fireplaces, and were tended by old 
 crones,with stirring paddles like boat oars, day and 
 night, like the witches in Macbeth with their "bub- 
 ble, bubble, toil and trouble ; fire burn and cauldron 
 bubble." How should we like to make mush for the 
 folks that way ? There are a good many degrees be- 
 tween ten-minute mush and twenty-four hour mush, 
 and as to the stirring there are very few hotels where 
 even ten minutes can be bestowed upon that part 
 as a regular thing. Fortunately there is little need 
 of it. Heat and steam are restless enough to keep up 
 a very fair bubble of themselves without much manual 
 labor. It seems to be with corn meal as with rice, 
 it will take up a certain amount of water and no 
 more. Ten ounces of rice will absorb a quart of wa- 
 ter and all the water that is added beyond that only 
 tends to separate the particles and make a blue 
 gruel. Five ounces of corn meal will do the same as 
 the ten ounces of rice, absorb a quart of water and 
 no more. With a much less proportion of water the 
 meal can never be well cooked, because the finer 
 particles take up the water first and the course 
 grains always must remain raw and hard, no matter 
 how long on the fire. Rice will cook well done in 
 three-quarters of an hour; corn meal requires about 
 three hours to reach the same point, although it may 
 be passibly good after only one or two hours boil- 
 ing. 
 
 To reduce the time of cooking some people steep 
 the meal in water several hours before. There is 
 nothing to be said against this except that it is likelier 
 to be forgot or neglected than remembered and be- 
 comes a cause of irregularity under the usual hotel 
 conditions. 
 
 640. 
 
 Com Meal Mush. 
 
 2 quarts of water. 
 10 ounces of white corn meal. 
 
 1 rounded tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 Use a flat-bottomed, bright iron saucepan. Brush 
 the inside with the least possible amount of melted 
 lard. This reduces the tendency to burn and les- 
 sens the waste. Put the salt in the water, boil, and 
 sprinkle the dry meal in with one hand while you 
 beat with the large wire egg-whisk in the other, till 
 all is in and there are no lumps to be seen. Put on 
 the lid, push the saucepan to the back of the range 
 and let it simmer with the steam shut im for ihree 
 hours. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 161 
 
 Then turn it out and keep it hot in a bright sink 
 in the steam chest. 
 
 Where the mush has to be made on a cook-stove, 
 a cast pot with feet, to raise the bottom an inch from 
 the fire, is best. 
 
 You will have the same measure of made mush as 
 you had water at first ; four quarts of water and 
 twenty ounces of meal producing one gallon. 
 
 Double the quantity required for one meal should 
 be made and half put away to become cold to fry. 
 For this purpose very slightly grease a bright tin 
 pan, press the mush evenly into it, and slightly 
 brush over with a brush dipped in melted lard again. 
 No matter how little the grease, it prevents the for- 
 mation of a crust by drying on top. Warm the pan 
 a few seconds and the mush, when cold, will turn 
 out without trouble. 
 
 Each quart of cold mush will cut into about ten 
 blocks or slices for frying. 
 
 641. 
 
 Fried mush is one of the things, as fried potatoes 
 is another, that has a telling effect in giving the im- 
 pression of excellence or otherwise of the hotel table. 
 That indefinite something so often mentioned, called 
 excellence of cmsme, is made up of hundreds of such 
 trifles as properly fried mush. 
 
 Recefntly a correspondent of a leading New York 
 newspaper, and whose letter in part was reprinted 
 in the Reporter, had occasion to comment upon a 
 breakfast at one of the famous hotels of Boston, and 
 went into well trained ecstacies over the simple per- 
 fection of it all. "0, the ineffable cuisine T' was the 
 exclamation, and of course it was a woman writing, 
 for men never think of original expressions ; one 
 says "the cooking was tip top," and all the succeed- 
 ing thousands say the same words. Well, there was 
 no mention of fried mush, but there was a hint of 
 golden-hued cutlets — breaded cutlets — and the same 
 conditions and effects pertain to both articles. 
 
 There was an intimation of crisp salad, and deli- 
 cately browned rolls and perfect, fresh butter. When, 
 in any case, you are curious to know "upon what 
 meat doth this our Caesar feed ?' ' you may be sure 
 that it is nothing more than you yourself can buy in 
 the market, and at the best of breakfasts the cups 
 are not so liable to be "filled with the nectar that 
 Jupiter sips," as with good coffee and chocolate. The 
 guests prefer them. 
 
 This tempting-looking fried mush — and breaded 
 cutlets, too — cannot be had, as a rule to be depend- 
 ed on, unless lard, good fresh lard, can be afforded 
 for the frying. One thing essential to the houses of 
 ineffable cuisine, is to be always excellent, and not 
 good for one observer and indifferent for the next. 
 But cheap, home-saved material, if good sometimes, 
 always carries a proviso. Meat drippings and soup 
 stock toppings a^*^ wood in a comparative sense, but 
 
 are apt to make the fries dark colored. Also, thes© 
 articles cannot be had perfect unless cracker meal 
 can be afforded to bread them with. Stale bread 
 dried and crushed and sifted is next best ; corn 
 meal for breading is the worst of all. But powdered 
 bread produces a reddish brown, and when dripping 
 for frying is used with it, the mush often looks more 
 like smoked meat. I do not wish to be understood 
 as advocating expensive ways. All the cheap ways 
 are to be given in these columns ; ways of cooking 
 without eggs, without cream, or milk, or butter, 
 without baking powder ; and it will not have to be 
 said the articles so made are as good as the best, only 
 that they are good enough ; but the opportunity is 
 here improved of showing by one instance out of 
 hundreds, how some tables are and must be better 
 than the rest, and why people cannot have four dollar 
 fare for three dollars, nor three dollar fare for two. 
 When breaded articles like fried mush are made so 
 good with crushed bread crumbs and meat fat from 
 the roasting pans that nobody observes any inferi- 
 ority, the credit is wholly due to the skill and care- 
 fulness of the cook. Corn meal for breading has such 
 a bad appearance that it ought to be counted out. 
 People who like the taste of fried meal, and will have 
 even oysters breaded with it, have to forego the 
 neatness and color that the other methods give. 
 
 One of our French preceptors gives us a homily 
 on frying, put in the readable form of a Count So- 
 and-so lecturing his cook, who, on the occasion of a 
 dinner to invited guests, had spoiled a choice fish 
 through putting it into lard (or oil) not hot enough. The 
 gist of it is, that if you put the breaded article into 
 lard not hot enough to immediately cook the outside, 
 the breading washes off, the juices of the fish or meat 
 ooze out, and these cannot be browned at all without 
 being entirely dried out. With an article so largely 
 made up of water as mush, it is still more necessary 
 to have the outside coat of egg and crumbs instantly 
 set, otherwise it will merely melt away and be lost. 
 
 64S. Fried Mush, Breaded. 
 
 Take the pan of cold boiled mush, prepared as al- 
 ready described, and having slightly warmed the 
 bottom, turn it upside down on a clean paste-board, 
 kept for the purpose. Cut the mush into blocks, 
 square or diamond-shaped, or else into slices or fan- 
 cy forms, according to the use intended. 
 
 For every quart of mush one egg is required, to be 
 beaten up with an equal amount of water. 
 
 Roll the pieces in this, and then in the meal made 
 by pounding and sifting crackers. 
 
 Have a saucepan half full of lard made hot 
 enough to hiss loudly when a drop of water touches 
 it, but yet not smoking. Drop in the mush a few 
 pieces at a time ; fry them yellow-brown — about 
 ten minutes — then place them in a colander set 
 in a pan, and in a hot place, to drain and dry before 
 serving. 
 
162 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 Wonder by what mischance in the distribution of 
 names, it happened that we drew mush from Ger- 
 man mus, when the other corn-raising peoples nearly 
 all drew Latin polenta ? 
 
 For it is not to be supposed that we have the monop 
 olyof mush, excepting the poor word itself. That, in- 
 deed, does not seem to be known even to the English 
 as a household word, for our mush, if they take it 
 as an experiment, they call maize porridge, our oat- 
 meal mush is the Scotch oatmeal porridge, our 
 cracked-wheat mush is the English frumenty, and 
 mush they will not say at all. 
 
 France, which raises annually thirty million bush- 
 els of corn, makes mush and mush puddings, but 
 calls mush polenta. 
 
 The term is specially applied to pudding made of 
 the meal of chestnuts, the same that, possibly, Count 
 Nesselrode was fond of, for, improved to a superlative 
 degree, we now find a pudding of chestnuts called 
 Nesselrode pudding ; but the Italian polenta, a corn 
 meal pudding, is also made in France, and polenta 
 for mush has a general application. Portugal raises 
 fifteen million bushels of corn, and makes corn food, 
 and there it is not prosaic mush but musical polenta. 
 Italy exceeds them all, raises forty-five million bush- 
 els, makes mush, and calls it polenta. Also, Brillat-Sa- 
 varin, enumerating the various articles contributed 
 by diflFerent countries to make a perfect cuisine, says 
 that Italy sends polenta liqueuers, and in the want of 
 better knowledge, the supposition is unavoidable that 
 he meant Italian corn whisky or its compounds. 
 Even our neighbor, Brazil, raising and using large 
 amounts of corn does not call mush our tasteless 
 way, but speaking Portugese no doubt sups on mel- 
 lifluous polenta. 
 
 Now mush does well enough for every day use, 
 but we want something for Sunday and company 
 times, and mush, look at it any way you please, is 
 positively too homely and humble to be elevated to 
 any conspicuous position. The article mush is wanted 
 to go to table with some very nice entrees ; it is 
 pleasant to the sight and good for food, and can be 
 cut handsomely and browned prettily and set up or- 
 namentally, and is good for car apes and fleurons, and 
 croustades; but the word mush will never fit in 
 gracefully where mush ought to be; it will not har- 
 monize with the grand surroundings of notable open- 
 ing days and splendid banquets at gilt-edged hotels; 
 it will hardly be admitted to the finest bills of fare, 
 to be printed in gold on satin, with borders of Jap- 
 anese mocking-birds and garlands of roses from 
 Bendemere's Stream, now will it? But you cannot 
 say the same of polenta, the diflference is immense. 
 
 Polenta is Italian, and used to mocking-birds and 
 roses and all that. Mush is Cinderella, but polenta 
 is Cinderella changed to the princess. If this differ- 
 ence is not already apparent, let us put it to the test. 
 You cannot imagine mush being introduced with pro- 
 
 priety into any line of tragic or heroic verse, but 
 polenta can be, and can hold its own. Take this ex- 
 ample : 
 
 **0, Romeo, Romeo! wherefore art thou Romeo?" 
 — instead of a member of some other family — and it 
 will be seen that without the least loss of dignity our 
 impassioned Juliet might shout : 
 
 "0 Polenta, Polenta! wherefore art thou Po- 
 lenta ?' ' — instead of bread-crumbed trout. With due 
 care taken to give the true lisp to the **t" in polenta, 
 as it would be heard in some old moss-grown inn in 
 Granada, under the shadow of the Alhambra or any 
 other Castle in Spain, the paraphrase possesses a 
 depth of plaintive passion that would set the mock 
 heroics which do so murder the original at defiance. 
 And yet polenta is mush, but note the diflference : 
 
 "0 Mush, Mush! wherefore art thou Mush?" — 
 instead of Polenta. 
 
 No use ; even capitals do not help it — will not 
 ring in right at all, but you immediately think of 
 Bottom, the weaver, and Starveling, his mate, and 
 "0 Bottom, Bottom 1 thou art translated 1" 
 
 This is an idle fancy, but it is serious, too, for we 
 want to put mush, at least fried mush, on the finest 
 bills of fare that are gotten up — bills for the Capu- 
 lets and Montagus, stately as Romeo, dainty as Ju- 
 liet, if not so tragical. Some of the finest bills of 
 fare extant have, for a dainty dish, "Marrow on 
 Toast." Mush might well take the toast's place, 
 yet, it is hard to say why, "Marrow on Mush" 
 does not seem so stylish. "Border of Mush, Filled" 
 with something, would not cut as grand a figure 
 among the entrees as '^Bordeur de Polenta Oarnies" 
 now would it ? 
 
 Speaking of Juliet, isn't it Juliet who says: 
 "That, which we call a rose, 
 By any other name would smell as sweet?" 
 
 Literally taken, millions have agreed to that, 
 but there is something behind the literal ; words are 
 beguiling. 
 
 "Who is't," quoth he, "that there reposes, 
 Upon yon bank of summer roses?" 
 
 Here the idea conveyed by reposes on roses is so 
 pleasant that you forget about the probable thorns 
 and go on reading to see what other pleasant things 
 there are, and it is the same with eating as with 
 reposing. Let a person spend a season at some de- 
 lightful winter resort and write home about the "ex- 
 quisite mush," and all the people written to would 
 surely laugh. But let it be the other case, and let 
 the expression be "0, the divine polenta," and tlxey 
 would no more laugh than they would at the di- 
 vine Piccolomini or the divine Celestina, but would 
 go on reading to see what other good things you 
 were having, and would forget about the probable 
 cheapness of polenta, which would be the thorn in 
 this case. Thus, it is seen, mush has a very bad case, 
 and it is hard to see what is to be done about it. 
 Perhaps somebody will help out this philological 
 diflftculty, and we will go right along with our re- 
 ceipts. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 163 
 
 G43. 
 
 Polenta Prite. 
 
 Fried mush can be used to good advantage in many 
 dishes that usually have toast, or fried bread or fried 
 potato garnishes, but in the guileless form of the com- 
 mon breakfast fried mush, it is open to the same ob- 
 jection that Brillat-Savarin brings against the po- 
 tato; he says: "I never take any. I think nothing 
 of the potato unless as a stop-gap in times of great 
 Bcarcity. It is, to my taste, most insipid." There- 
 fore resort should be had to the gastronome's ex- 
 pedient in many similar cases; slice the mush thin, 
 cut the shapes small, and mix minced cheese with 
 the cracker meal to bread it with. The proportion 
 of cheese is about one cupful, finely minced, to three 
 cupfuls of cracker meal, but it must depend upon the 
 quality of the cheese. Needs extra care in frying, 
 as it soon acquires a deep color. 
 
 044. Polenta, a 1' Italienne. 
 
 A cake of buttered mush, with cheese baked on 
 the top. 
 
 1 quart of water. 
 
 6 ounces of yellow corn meal. 
 
 2 ounces of butter. 
 
 4 ounces of cheese, minced. 
 
 Level teaspoonful of salt and pepper mixed. 
 
 Half cupful of cracker meal. 
 
 Brush the inside of a small saucepan slightly with 
 melted butter, and make mush with the water and 
 meal in the usual way, letting it cook with a lid on, 
 in its own steam, on the furthest corner of the range, 
 about 2 hours. Then stir in half the butter and the 
 pepper and salt. It should be a stiff, well-cooked 
 mush. Spread the other ounce of butter on the 
 baking pan bottom — a 2 qt., bright, shallow 
 milk-pan is best — sift half the cracker meal 
 on that, then place the mush by spoonfuls so as to 
 smooth it over at last without disturbing the under 
 crust. When leveled over, strew on the minced 
 cheese, sift rest of cracker meal on top, and bake in 
 a brisk oven half an hour, or till nicely browned at 
 top and bottom. This is a good dish for lunch. May 
 be served like macaroni and cheese, or macaroni 
 cake. Is best baked en caisse, that is, in little paper 
 
 When the cheese furnished is too dry to melt in 
 the oven, moisten the top with the back of a spoon 
 dipped in melted butter. When too rich and melt- 
 ing, use less, and more cracker meal. 
 
 045. 
 
 To Fry Mush 'Without Eggs. 
 
 Mix flour and water together to make thickening 
 of the consistency of cream, without lumps. Roll 
 the pieces of mush in it instead of egg and water, 
 then in cracker meal, or bread crumbs, and fry in 
 the usual way. A half cup of water or milk to two 
 
 heaping tablespoonfuls of flour makes it. Milk gives 
 the better color. The frying grease has to be hotter 
 and fewer pieces must be put in at once to make thil 
 way nearly as good as the other. It answers very 
 well, also, to roll the mush in rich milk without 
 flour. 
 
 046. 
 
 Mush Sautes. 
 
 Sautes is sauteed, in meaning, according to Eng- 
 lish terminations, and that means fried in a common 
 frying-pan like fried eggs, etc. The French or prop- 
 er frying requires a quantity of hot fat or oil, as in- 
 dicated in the preceding directions for fried mush. 
 
 The word Sautes is perpetually appearing in hotel 
 bills of fare, but the people to whom it conveys any 
 meaning are extremely few. It seems to be usually 
 guessed to mean sauce. As it is a technical term, a 
 person might read French a long time without meet- 
 ing with it elsewhere than at table. There is suffi- 
 cient reason for its use, seeing that no other word ex- 
 presses the same thing correctly. 
 
 To saute mush, cut it in slices not over half an 
 inch thick, and flour them all over. Place a spoon- 
 ful of lard, clarified butter or clarified meat fat, in 
 the frying pan, and when hot put in two or three 
 slices, not near enough to touch. Brown it quickly, 
 and turn over with an egg slice. Is only good when 
 fried as wanted and served immediately. 
 
 There is still another variety of mush, and wheth- 
 er we make use of the knowledge or not, the neces- 
 sity of at least being posted on them all was well ex- 
 emplified in the luck of a certain man from Boston. 
 He came from one of the best hotels of that city, and 
 obtained a good position in St. Louis. What he 
 claimed to have been, or what he had been in the 
 famous Boston house, is neither here nor there, but 
 it was evident that his had been only one particular 
 line of duty, for, unexcelled in some things, there 
 were other smaller matters that baffled his efforts, 
 and one of these was fried mush. He knew of but 
 one kind, and that was fried mush balls, which, you 
 see, was a great misfortune, considering that he was 
 head cook of a large hotel, having assistants who did 
 not think it best to do otherwise than as he directed. 
 So mush balls they made and made them good, very 
 likely, or else the demand was small and the style 
 unnoticed, for that way lasted quite a while. But 
 presently evil days came, and brought with them 
 some people of grand import, who had been board- 
 ing at the Hotel Terrible, up the avenue. 
 
 They came in a huff, and soon began to sniff, and 
 looking about for inferiorities, observed the fried 
 mush balls. Then they pulled them apart, analyzed 
 them, condemned them. If there was anything they 
 did love, it was good fried mush ; but these mush 
 balls were simply atrocious. They demanded what 
 they were pleased to term the genuine article. But 
 they might as well have called spirits from the vasty 
 
164 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 deep, that would not come when they did call them, 
 for neither they themselves nor anybody else could 
 tell what diflference of process was required. So dis- 
 satisfaction grew up on both sides. It took an earth- 
 quake to "roll" the cooks out of their kitchens at 
 Pompeii, and required an eruption of Vesuvius to 
 make the bakers forget their bread in their ovens at 
 Herculaneum, but that was in grander times than 
 these, and it is not exceeding the truth to say that 
 this sad fugitive from the modern Athens was im- 
 pelled to sever his connection through no greater 
 reason than the vacuity of his perceptions of the in- 
 herent possibilities of fried mush. Perhaps you 
 think that after he was gone all was peace, and joy, 
 and love, but it was not. His successor's mush was 
 
 orthodox and irreproachable, but 
 
 Well, there were some old habitues who had con- 
 ceived an affection for the other kind, they did not 
 know what made the diflference, but there was a 
 solid sweetness in the other that the new kind did 
 not possess. The new cook did not understand it 
 either, for he only knew one way ; so they split the 
 slices and double breaded them, and tried to make 
 believe, and worried along, and I think they are all 
 dead by this time and out of their troubles, but if 
 ever you get into such a place after learning the fol- 
 lowing receipt, you will know what they want, bet- 
 ter than they know themselves. 
 
 64T. 
 
 Pried Mush Balls, or Pried Pone. 
 
 1 pound of corn meal. 
 
 1 pint of boiling water. 
 
 4 tablespoonfuls of melted lard. 
 
 1 egg. ^ cup cold water. Salt. 
 
 Scald the meal with the boiling water ; add the 
 rest of the ingredients ; flour your hands ; make 
 round balls, and fry in a saucepan of hot lard. They 
 require long cooking. 
 
 No doubt it could be easily demonstrated that four 
 cooks in a hotel kitchen accomplish more in the culi- 
 nary line than do forty domes ic cooks in twenty pri- 
 vate houses. No particular credit to the hotel cooks, 
 but it is owing to the larger scale and system of their 
 work, the greater capacities of their ranges and uten- 
 sils, the labor-saving conveniences, water and drain- 
 age arrangements, and the larger quantities handled. 
 It takes but little longerto cook five pounds than one, 
 scarcely more trouble to make a gallon of soup for 
 twenty persons than a quart for a family. But the 
 emergencies are many, too. There has to be a drop^ 
 ping oflf and leaving out of many long and tedious 
 processes. That which cannot be made in short time, 
 is most likely not to be made at all, or else attempted 
 and spoiled. 
 
 There are printed directions for numerous articles 
 apparently desirable, that must be constantly stirred 
 or otherwise worked one or two hours. To follow 
 
 such in hotel work is simply impossible, it would re- 
 quire a small army of assistants. The common objec- 
 tion is valid — '*0, we can't — there isn't time." The 
 choice, then, lies between making many cheap and 
 good preparations in a half-way manner; giving them 
 up entirely, or finding out the reason why of the long 
 processes and getting at the same results by shorter 
 methods. There will be, it is hoped, many better il- 
 lustrations than this of corn meal puddings, yet this 
 will serve, and may the sooner establish an under- 
 standing of the motive of many directions that might 
 otherwise seem peculiar. It is commonly said that 
 corn meal puddings must bake three hours or longer, 
 but in a hotel doing a healthy business it is extremely 
 inconvenient to keep one minor article, and one so 
 liable to burn, in the oven for that length of time 
 Fishes and meats have to go m and out, then vegeta- 
 bles and pastry; three hours baking involves three 
 hours watching, and the strain upon memory lest it be 
 neglected. There is no need of this. The only rea- 
 son for long cooking is to cook the meal thoroughly, 
 and that is better done in a saucepan with a lid on in 
 any out-of-the-way corner, or even in a sink in the 
 steam chest. To bake a pudding longer than till the 
 eggs are well set, is generally an injury. What is at 
 a certain point rich, smooth and custard-like, be- 
 comes, with longer baking, watery and inferior, 
 through the curdling of the eggs, just as is seen to 
 happen when a custard is allowed to boil. Cook the 
 materials as much as you please before the eggs are 
 put in, but very little after. 
 
 Several puddings of corn meal have already been 
 described, the next is a plainer and cheaper sort. 
 Not necessarily the worse for that — it is mere matter 
 of taste. 
 
 048. 
 
 Plain Baked Indian Pudding. 
 
 2 quarts of water, or milk. 
 12 ounces of corn meal. 
 
 2 ounces of butter, or suet. 
 
 6 ounces of molasses (a tea cupful). 
 
 1 teaspoonful of ground ginger. 
 
 4 eggs. Little salt. 
 
 Make mush with the meal and water, and let it 
 simmer about 2 hours. Then add the other ingredi- 
 ents and bake in a buttered milk pan nearly an hour. 
 Makes 2h quarts. 
 
 049. Common Brown Bread, Yeast 
 Raised. 
 
 1 pound of corn meal about 3 cupfuls. 
 
 1 pint of boiling water — 2 cupfuls. 
 
 ^ cupful of black molasses. 
 
 1 cupful of cold water. 
 
 1 cupful of yeast, or a yeast cake in water. 
 
 ^ pound of either rye or graham flour. 
 
 ^ pound of white flour, a heaping pint. 
 
 Salt. 
 
 Pour ihe boiling water over the corn meal in a 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTKY COOK. 
 
 166 
 
 pan and mix, throw in a teaspoonful of salt, add 
 the molasses and cold water, then the yeast and 
 then the two kinds of flour. Line two sheet-iron 
 brown bread pails with greased paper, put in the 
 dough and let rise from one to two hours, then 
 bake or steam for five hours. If steamed, bake the 
 loaves afterward long e'nough to form a slight crust. 
 A good sort of bread is made as above with a 
 pound of graham sifted through a common flour 
 sieve to remove the coarse bran, and the white flour 
 omitted; or with all rye flour and no graham or 
 white. Care should be tali en not to scald the yeast 
 by adding it to the hot meal before the cold water. 
 When this kind of bread is sticky when sliced it 
 shows it was made up too wet. When the loaves 
 come out hollow or caved in ii shows too much fer- 
 mentation. 
 
 650. English Home-Made Brown Bread. 
 
 3 pounds of sifted graham flour. 
 
 1 quart of warm water. 
 
 ^ ounce of compressed yeast 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 By sifted graham is meant flour with the coarsest 
 bran taken out. Commence 7 or 8 hours before 
 time to bake. Dissolve the yeast in the water and 
 mix up half the flour with it, that is "setting 
 sponge." Place the pan in a warm corner, to re- 
 main 4 hours. Then throw in the salt, mix up to 
 stiff dough, scrape out the pan and knead smooth. 
 Brush over the pan with the least possible amount 
 of melted lard, or lard and hot water to prevent 
 slicking, put in the lump of dough and brush it 
 over, and let rise 2 hours more. Then knead, make 
 into loaves, rise again and bake. 
 
 Where potato yeast is used instead of compressed, 
 take about one-fourth as much yeast as water. 
 
 The foregoing is the kind of bread fashionably 
 served with stewed slices of fish. 
 
 651. Rhubard Marmalade for Tarts. 
 
 Rhubarb flavored with oranges and boiled down 
 With sugar. 
 
 4 cupfuls of rhubarb cut very small. 
 
 2 cupfuls of sugar. 
 
 3 oranges— or orange peel only. 
 
 Grate the yellow rind of the oranges into the 
 saucepan and then cut up the insides, carefu'ly ex- 
 cluding the sreds and white pith. Put in a spoon- 
 ful or two of water to wet the bottom, then the sugar 
 and rhubirb, and simmer at the back of the range 
 with the lid on for an hour. Keep in a jar. Use 
 to fill tarts or spread between layers of cake. 
 
 652. Marmalade of Canned Apricots. 
 
 2 cupfuls of sugar to 2 cupfuls of apricot pulp. 
 Drain the fruit from the syrup by pouring all into 
 
 a colander set in a saucepan. Press the frui 
 through the colander into another vessel and mea- 
 sure it. Put as much sugar by measure into the ap 
 ricot juice in the saucepan and boil them gently for 
 half an hour, skimming once; then put in the 
 mashed apiicot and simmer down thick. 
 
 652 a. Pumpkin Butter— Pine Quality. 
 
 2 pounds or pints of dry mashed pumpkin. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 Flavoring either of shaved lemon rind, cloves, 
 nutmeg or race ginger. 
 
 The pumpkin must be dry, either baked or steam- 
 ed. Mash it through a strainer, mix the sugar and 
 butter with it and the piece of ginger bruised, or 
 thin shaved lemon rind; let simmer at the s^de or 
 set upon bricks on the stove for perhaps an hour. 
 It becomes thick and semi-transparent; can be kept 
 in jars in a dark place. Good for the same uses as 
 fruit Jellies and marmalade. 
 
 652 b. Peach Butter. 
 
 8 cupfuls of sliced peaches. 
 
 4 cupfuls of sugar. 
 
 2 cupfuls of water. 
 The peaches need not be peeled, but should be 
 rubbed in a coarse towel before slicing. 
 
 Put the water into a kettle or bright pan; then the 
 peaches; shut in the steam and let cook at the back 
 of the stove,or set on bricks, for an hour or longer* 
 Then add the sug'tr, and do not leave it, as it burns 
 very easi'y, but keep stirring with a broad wooden 
 paddle while it boils one-half hour more. Keep in 
 ajar in a cool place. 
 
 652 c. Caterers* Wedding Cake. 
 
 2 pounds of su^ar. 
 
 1^ pounds of butter. 
 
 12 eggs. 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 8 tablespoonfuls of wine. Same of brandy. 
 
 6 nutmegs ground or grated. 
 
 5 pounds of raisins. 
 
 4 pounds of currants. 
 
 2 pounds of citrons. 
 Stone the raisin?, wash and dry tke currants, 
 cut the citron email, then mix all three together 
 and dust them with a cupful of flour. 
 
 Mix the first four ingredients together the same 
 as if for pound cake, add the liquors, nutmeg, and 
 then the fruit. 
 
 Line the mold with buttered paper, and wrap 
 another paper around the outside and tie it with 
 twine. Bake the cake about three hours. 
 
 652 d. Layer Fruit Cake. 
 
 Sheets of pound cake mixlure baked in jelly cake 
 pans; minced raisins, citron, almonds and currants 
 mixed with icing and spread between. 
 
166 
 
 THE AMEBIOAN PASTBY OOOK. 
 
 653. Pound Oake. 
 
 14 or 15 ounces of sugar. 
 
 12 ounces of butter. 
 
 10 eggs. 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 
 Warm the butter and sugar together slightly and 
 work them with a spoon till creamy and white. Add 
 the eggs 2 at a time, and then the flour in 3 or 4 
 portions. Beating the batter after all the ingredi- 
 ents are in tends to make the cake fine grained. 
 Pound cake should not be flavored. 
 
 Pound cake, doubtless is so called, because it can 
 be m^.de with a pound of each of the ingredients. The 
 10 egg^ weigh a pound. But so much butter makes 
 it too rich to be good eating. 
 
 664. Pound Fruit Oake. 
 
 The staple every day sort of plum cake. The fruit 
 does not sink to the bottom in this mixture. 
 
 14 ounces of sugar. 
 
 14 ounces of butter. 
 
 11 eggs. 
 
 18 ounces of flour. 
 
 Mix the above the same as pound cake, then add 
 to it: 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of mixed ground spices, cinnamon, 
 mace, and alspice. 
 
 1 lemon, grated rind, and juice. 
 
 1 pound of raisins. 
 
 1 pound of currants. 
 
 8 ounces of citron. 
 
 Half cupful of whisky (optional). 
 
 U^e seedless raisins. Nothing is good made full 
 of raisin seeds. Mix the fruit together and dust it 
 with flour before stirring it into the batter. The 
 cakes require from 1 to 1^ hourdto bake. 
 
 655. Citron Cake. 
 
 Either of the preceding pound cake mixtures with 
 1 pound of citron cut in shreds and added, and a 
 little lemon extract. 
 
 050. Wedding: Cake— Rich Fruit Cake. 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 
 IJ pounds of butter. 
 
 10 eggs. 
 
 IJ pounds of flour. 
 
 Mix the above like pound cake, then add 
 
 IJ pounds of seedless raisins. 
 
 IJ pounds of currants. 
 
 1 pound of citron. 
 
 8 ounces of almonds, blanched. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of mixed ground spices. 
 
 Half pint of brandy. 
 
 1 lemon, juice and grated rind. 
 
 Bake in molds lined with buttered paper. Takes 
 from 1 to 2 hours according to depth. This cake 
 cannot be cut while fresh without crumbling, but 
 becomes moister and Arm with a few days keeping. 
 
 657. Richest Fruit Cake— Black Cake* 
 
 Prepare the fruit first. 
 2^ pounds of seedless raisins. 
 2^ pounds of clean dry currants. 
 IJ pounds of citron, shred fine. 
 2 ounces of mixed ground spices — cinnamon, 
 cloves, nutmeg and mace. 
 
 1 small cupfrl of strong black coffee. 
 1 small cupful of reboiled molasses. 
 1 small cupful of brandy. 
 
 I tablespoonful of extract of lemon. 
 
 A small addition of almonds, nuts, candy, or out 
 figs can be made if wished. 
 Then mix the cake batter : 
 14 ounces of sugar. 
 14 ounces of butter. 
 
 II eggs. 
 
 18 ounces of flour. 
 
 Mix up same as poundcake, after the flour is all 
 in add the 2 ounces of spice, then the coffee, molas- 
 ses, brandy and lemon extract. The batter will then 
 be quite thin. Dust the fruit well with flour and 
 and mix it in. 
 
 Line two cake molds with buttered paper and di- 
 vide the mixture into them. Set the molds in the 
 middle of a sheet or two of greased paper, gather it 
 up around them and tie with twine, thus wrapping 
 the molds in paper to shield them from too much 
 heat and avoid burning the fruit. Bake from 2 to 
 2^ hours in a slack oven. 
 
 658. The black cake above should be at least 2 
 or 3 days old before it is cut. The amount of cake 
 batter only serves to hold vhe fruit together, but, it 
 ought to be mentioned, the quantity of the pound 
 cake mixture in it may be doubled and all the other 
 inzredients remain the same and it will still be a 
 very rich black cake. 
 
 659. .Mountain Cakes. 
 
 Pound cake baked on jelly cake pans, 4 or 5 or 
 more of the sheets piled on each other with cake icing 
 spread between, and on the top. Decorate the top 
 with the kernels of hickory nuts. 
 
 660. Drop Cakes. 
 
 Pound cake mixture, or butter sponge cake mix* 
 ture with a handful or two of flour added and a little 
 baking powder placed by spoonfuls on greased baking 
 pans make the cone shaped drop cakes of the shops. 
 A strip of citron, a few currants or granulated sugar 
 on top make the variations. 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 167 
 
 661. Lafayette Oake, 
 
 Two sheets of pound cake baked in two shallow 
 baking pans. Spread one with jelly, place the other 
 on top and ice it over. Mark it in oblongs before 
 the icing gets quite dry. 
 
 662. Small Cream Cakes. 
 
 Drop the butter sponge cake mixture on greased 
 baking pans. Let the cakes be about the size of 
 silver dollars. They will run out thin. Dredge 
 sugar on top with a dredger Bake light. Spread 
 pastry cream between two placed together. 
 
 663. Sugar Oake Made Without Eggs- 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 4 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 large coffee cupful of milk. 
 Nutmeg to flavor, or carraway seeds. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder, 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 Mix up like biscuit, the butter melted and added 
 to the milk with the sugar, Roll out and bake in a 
 shallow pan. Brush over with milk before baking. 
 
 664. Cookies, Sugar Cakes. Best. 
 
 1 pound of sugar, 
 
 1 pound of butter, 
 
 12 eggs. 
 
 3 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Flour to make soft dough— 3 pounds. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar together the same as 
 for pound oake. Beat the eggs and mix them in, 
 then the powder, add some flavoripg, then flour. Let 
 the dough, after it has been worked smooth, stand a 
 few minutes before rolling it out. Sift sugar over 
 the sheet of dough before cutting out the cakes. 
 
 665. Cookies, Common. 
 
 1 pound of sugar, 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 6 eggs. 
 
 1 cupful of milk. 
 
 4 teaeponfuls of baking powder. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 666. Hard Cookies or Sweet Crackers. 
 
 To cut in fancy shapes. They do not spread or 
 lose form. 
 12 ounces of powdered sugar. 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 6 eggs. 
 Half cupful of milk, 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder. 
 
 2 pounds of flour. 
 
 Iftmon or cinnamon extract to flavor. 
 
 067. 
 
 White Coooanut Cookies and 
 Small Cakes 
 
 Make the oake mixture number 15 and add gi>atetj 
 or desiccated coooanut to it. Roll out with a IUUa 
 more flour and cut small cookies. Sugar over the 
 tops before baking The same may also be baked 
 in muffin rings and iced on top with cocoanut mixed 
 in the icing. 
 
 668. German Cookies. 
 
 Make cookies of either of the mixtures and after 
 placing in pans egg them over with a brush and 
 sprinkle on them chopped almonds mixed with 
 gravel sugar. Bake light colored. Gravel sugar is 
 the small lumps from crushed sugar sifted through 
 a colander. 
 
 669, Jumbles. 
 
 Are cookies in ring shapes, of various degrees of 
 richness of mixture. Commonly they are only cut 
 in rings with a ring cutter; properly they should be 
 made with a sack and tube. 
 
 • Take a lady-finger tube and file the edge into saw 
 teeth and press out the jumble dough in a ribbed 
 cord, of which form rings on the baking pans. The 
 cooky mixtures may be used, or this : 
 
 1 pound of sugar. 
 12 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 eggs. Flavor of lemon or orange. 
 
 2 pounds or little less of flour. 
 No powder. 
 
 070. Ginger Snaps, Rich Kind. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of white sugar. 
 
 1 to 2 ounces of ground ginger. 
 
 1 teaspoonful of baking powder, 
 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 Make same way as cookies. Sift granulated sugar 
 over the sheet of dough and run the rolling pin 
 over to make it adhere before cutting out the cakes. 
 
 071. Grantham Ginger Snaps, English. 
 
 12 ounces of white sugar. 
 8 ounces of blotter. 
 8 eggs. 
 
 1 teacupful of milk— small. 
 
 2 ounces of ground ginger. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 1^ pounds of flour. 
 
 Mix up in the usual way for cookies. Sift sugar 
 over before cutting out the cakes. 
 
 It is generally best to make the dough for all kinds 
 of cookies and sugar cake as soft as it can possibly 
 be rolled out. Diff^erent persons make very differen* 
 
X08 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 cakes of these sorts from the same receipts, and the 
 common fault is too much flour in the dough. The 
 baking powder too is responsible for some of the 
 changes. With too much powder the cakes run 
 into each other and lose the good round shape they 
 ought to baye. 
 
 672. Brown Ginger Cookies, Good 
 Common. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 8 ounces of sugar, 
 8 ounces of black molasses. 
 4 eggs. 
 
 2 ounces of ground ginger. 
 Half cupful of milk or water. 
 4 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 2 pounds of flour, or enough to make soft dough 
 Mix the ingredients in the order they are printed 
 in. Boll out and cut with a small cutter. 
 
 673. Ginger Nuts without Bgga. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. • 
 
 8 ounces of molasses. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of ground ginger. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 Flour to make soft dough. 
 
 Warm the butter, sugar and molasses together and 
 mix them well, when nearly cold again add the gin- 
 ger, powder and flour. Roll pieces of the dough in 
 long thin rolls and cut off in pieces large as cherries. 
 Place on buttered pans with plenty of room between. 
 Bake light. 
 
 674. Sugar Cakes without Eggs. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 8 ounces of sugar. 
 
 8 ounces of water — a cupful. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of baking powder. 
 
 1^ pounds of flour to mix, and more to roll out. 
 Mix in the order they are printed. The softer the 
 dough can be handled the better the cakes will be. 
 Sift sugar over before cutting out. 
 
 675. Brandy Snaps 
 
 1 pound of flour. 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 8 ounces of sugir. 
 
 2 ounces of ground ginger. 
 Lemon extract to flavor. 
 
 1 teaepoonful of soda — rounded measure. 
 
 1^ pounds of light molasses. 
 
 Rub the butter into the flour as in making short 
 paste, and add the ginger. Make a hole in the mid- 
 dle of the flour and put in the sugar, molasses and 
 extract ; dissolve the soda in a spoonful of water 
 
 and add it to the rest. Stir all together, drawing 
 in the flour gradually while stirring. 
 
 Drop this batter with a teaspoon on baking pans 
 — they need not be greased — and bake in a slack 
 oven. The snaps run out flat and thin. Take them 
 off before they get cold and- bend them to round or 
 tubular shape on a new broom handle. 
 
 676. Soft Ginger Nuts. 
 
 Make the dough as for brandy snaps, and add to 
 it 8 ounces more flour. Roll it out to a thick sheet 
 and cut out with a small cutter. 
 
 681. How to Make Stock Yeast. 
 
 There are two parts to this process, requiring 
 about 5 days time before new ferment can be made 
 from the new stock. But as stock will keep at 
 least a month and much longer if bottled and kept 
 in the ice-house, the trouble does not recur very 
 often. The first part is: 
 
 682. 
 
 Bottle Yeast. The Beginning of 
 Yeast. 
 
 Get a strong quart bottle, an ale or champagne 
 bottle will da. Make some strong hop tea by boil- 
 ing a large handful of hops in a quart of water, 
 cool it and strain it into the bottle, squeezing the 
 hops dry to get the full strength. The bottle must 
 only be two thirds full. Then put into the bottle, be- 
 sides, two handfuls of ground malt and one handful 
 of sugar. Shake up, cork, and tie the cork down 
 with twine, like ginger-pop. Set the bottle on a 
 warm shelf in a corner of the kitchen where it will 
 not be disturbed and will not be in danger of getting 
 too warm in the heat of the day. Let it stand there 
 from 44 to 48 hours, by which time it will be yeast 
 on a small scale, ready to start fermentation in the 
 stock itself. 
 
 683. Second Part. Stock Yeast. 
 
 The bottle having stood long enough — or two 
 days after corking it down — make about 2 gallons 
 of hop tea by putting a pail of water into a kettle 
 with a lot of hops — nearly a pound — and boiling 
 them about an hour with a lid on the kettle. Put 2 
 pounds of flour into a large jar, pan, or keg and 
 strain some of the boiling hop water into it — enough 
 to wet and scald the flour thoroughly when stirred 
 up ; when there are no more lumps in the flour 
 strain in all the rest of the hop water and cool it 
 with a piece of ice. After that put in a quart of 
 coarse ground malt and J pound of suf^ar. When 
 this mixture is no more than milk warm, take the 
 bottle yeast, hold the neck downwards and o^efuUy 
 draw the cork — which will come out like the cork 
 
THE AMBBICAN PASTRY COOK, 
 
 169 
 
 from a bottle of champagne — and mix the two 
 together. Set the jar or keg containing the 
 stock in a warm corner where it may ferment 
 undisturbed, and in a day and a half or two days 
 afterwards the stock will be ready to start 
 ferment with, as has already been directed at 
 number 512. 
 
 It is not necessary to make the bottle yeast 
 every time that stock is made, for new stock may 
 be started with some of the old stock remaining, 
 but whenever the ferment seems weak and slow, 
 and whenever the bread begins to turn sour be- 
 fore it is light, then new stock should be started 
 from the very foundation, in the bottle. 
 
 It may be observed that the above method 
 renders a person who can get the raw materials 
 quite independent of every other person's yeast 
 and of an J other kind of yeast to start with He 
 makes his own from the very first germ. 
 
 684. Genuine Vienna Rolls. 
 
 4 pounds of flour. 
 
 1 quart of milk. 
 
 1 ounce of German compressed yeast. 
 
 1 ounce of salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of sugar, 
 
 Make the milk lukewarm and dissolve the yeast 
 in it. Set sponge at 9 in the morning, at noon add 
 the salt and sugar and make up stiff dough. Let 
 rise till about 4. Then work the dough well on the 
 table by pressing out and folding over. 
 
 Roll out the dough in one large sheet as thin as 
 you can, which will be about the thinness of a din- 
 ner plate edge ; then measuring with your hand cut 
 the dough into strips or bands as wide across as your 
 hand is long. Cut these again into triangular pieces 
 for rolls, not equal sided but long and narrow tri- 
 angles. Roll these triangular pieces up, beginning 
 at the broad bottom end, and the point will come up 
 in the middle, and there will be a spiral mark 
 aiound from end to end. 
 
 Give each roll a few turns under the hands to 
 smooth it and place it on the baking pan in the form 
 of a crescent— ju3t the shape and size of the new 
 moon. Brush over with water. Let rise in the 
 pans about half an hour and bake about ten minutes 
 
 Genuine Vienna Rolls 
 
 Some time ago the writer saw a Vienna Model 
 Bakery — so called— begin and flourish awhile, and 
 at last go into bankruptcy in an attempt to introduce 
 and make the above described rolls popular in a 
 community that had but little appreciation of their 
 excellence. For one thing it cost the firm $2.50 per 
 week for compressed yeast alone, to arrive on oer. 
 tain days by express, when they might have made 
 the common kind at a scarcely appreciable cost. 
 
 The lesson is: German bread for the Germans* 
 but Vienna rolls cannot be forced into the position 
 of favoritism that is held by Parker House or Albany 
 rolls, or split rolls by any other name. Make the 
 Vienna shape, however, out of French roll dough. 
 Brush over the sheet of dough with a little melted 
 butter, then roll up the rolls, and after baking they 
 they can be unrolled, and the people who eat will 
 admire them. 
 
 685, Baker's Apple Oake. 
 
 A sheet of the coffee cake dough (No. 540) covered 
 with apples in slices stuck In edgewise and, after a 
 little time allowed for it to rise, baked in a slack 
 oven. Plain bread or roll dough is sometimes made 
 to serve the purpose at the bakeries, and the apples 
 are basted while baking with syrup and dredged 
 with cinnamon. 
 
 A Plea for the Pastry Cook. 
 
 '* In the time of Charles IX. of France, pastry 
 cooks made such advance that the products of their 
 industry held an honorable place in every feast ; and 
 they formed a considerable corporation, for we find 
 that prince investing it with certain privileges.*' So 
 says our most respected advocate and authority, and 
 continues: "It is easy to entertain a large number 
 of healthy appetites; with plenty of meat, venison, 
 game, and some large pieces of fish, a feast for sixty 
 is soon ready. But to please mouths that only open 
 in affectation, to tempt women full of fancies, to 
 excite stomachs of papier mache^ or rouse an appe- 
 tite which is ever flickering in the socket, would 
 require more genius, insight, and labor than the res- 
 olution of one of the problems of the Geometry of 
 the Infinite.'* 
 
 The pastry cook's occupation ought at least to 
 rank equal to the meat cook's in the organization of 
 the working force of a hotel. If it at present is 
 held subordinate the reason may be found in the 
 binding force of inherited customs; for the meat 
 cook's office has existed ever since men first began 
 to slay animals and toast their flesh over the camp 
 fire for food, while the pastry cook's is a later out- 
 growth of the highest civilization. But having the 
 more delicate and difficult tasks to perform it de- 
 mands for their perfect execution a rarer kind of 
 alent, Almosf any person of ordinary shrewdnesf 
 
170 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTBY COOK. 
 
 and apitude casually thrown for awhile amongst the 
 cooks in a hotel may set up with a fair cbanco of 
 succeeding as a meat cook himself in the vastly pre- 
 ponderating number of places where cheapness has 
 to be the first consideration, and from that may eas- 
 ily reach the more lucrative positions ; but first-class 
 pastry-cooks, cannot be made in that way, for pas- 
 try cooking, including bread making and baking, is 
 a more exact trade, a matter depending upon weights 
 and measures and a particular manipulations, not to 
 be trusted to guess work without long previous 
 practice. The products of the meat cook's labor are 
 set before people prepared for their enjoyment with 
 appetites sharpened by hunger. The cook, and the 
 steward of practiced taste may discern in the soup 
 a slight burnt or smoky or unpleasant flavor, yet 
 the entire company will probably parlake of it with 
 enjoyment without perceiving any thing amiss ; but 
 after the keen appetites have been appeased let 
 something of the pastry cook's be sent to table burd- 
 ened with a similar inferiority and it will be imme- 
 diately and almost unanimously rejected. It used to 
 be the frequent remark of a very successful hotel- 
 keeper, that "people take more notice of the pastry 
 than of any other part of the dinner." The charac* 
 ter of the table is more apt to be judged by the 
 quality of the products of the pastry cook's labor, 
 including the warm breads, waffles, and cakes, than 
 by anything else, and if the working man or woman 
 of the culinary department is possessed of taste and 
 perception in a superior degree their quality can no- 
 where be 80 well displayed as in the last course of 
 a dinner upon the dainty dishes that are set about to 
 beir comparsion and to hold their place if they may 
 among the rich fruits and nuts, the wines, the flowers 
 of the dessert. 
 
 But if the pastry cook's art may claim considera- 
 tion because of its capacity for contributing to what 
 is delicate, elegant, and ornate, it has even greater 
 claims on the score of usefulness. Up and down the 
 crowded streets of one of the largest and busiest cities 
 — Chicag:)to-wIt — at frequent intervals may be found 
 restaurants with all sorts of meats, fish and fowls 
 displayed with their garnlshings in the most tempt- 
 ing manner possible ; and between them and twic3 
 as frequent are the beer halls with their lunch dis- 
 played, more or less free, of boiled meat, tripe, 
 chopped cvbbage and rye bread, the indications 
 seeeming to be that all the men are eaters only of 
 meat and its "trimmings." But not sa. There are 
 other places where men lunch and dine. There are 
 
 bakeries in Chicago which are in reality large facto- 
 ries, as extensive as seme pork packing establish- 
 ments, and these making specialties of pies, bread, 
 cakes, or crackers seem — if we may be allowed to 
 make a rough guess — to supply about one-fourth of 
 the entire city. These large bakeries have shops for 
 retailing, large double stores in the heart of the city, 
 converted into lunch houses with long counters and 
 rows of stools, and waiters, clerks and cashiers, 
 and they are crowded during about two hours 
 of each meal time about six hours of the day, 
 with men taking a meal of bread cakes, pies and cof- 
 fee, tea, or milk. Nothing is cooked there except the 
 coffee made by steam heat. They serve French split 
 rolls and round graham rolls with butter, three for 
 five centSj in little baskets ; coffee-cakes made up in 
 twists like one of our cuts, and brushed over with 
 syrup, two for five cents ; yellow rusks in long shape 
 like rolls; Boston brown bread, very brown and 
 baked in pails, or deep molds same shape. Apple 
 cake they have, and "stollen," and "Lincoln pie," 
 here called *' Washington pie;" small sponge cakes 
 baked in pans the length of a finger, also lady- 
 fingers, one cent apiece; milk bread baked in long 
 tin molds, plum cake, baked "apple dumplings," 
 and pies; homemade pies, with pumpkin and 
 custard thick, even up to the brim, lemon pie with 
 meringue on top, mince and apple. 
 
 Our interest in this matter is that of a theorist 
 liking to find his beliefs verified. Meat is the most 
 expensive and wasteful article of hotel provision. 
 We have found in hotels that in proportion as the 
 breads and other articles included under the head of 
 pastries rose in excellence the demand upon the 
 meats was lessened, to the benefit, probably, of all 
 concerned. The products of these large city baker- 
 ies are good with the uniform excellence that might 
 be expected of factory work and because they are good 
 the sales are immense. The lunch or meal of this 
 kind costs but from ten to thirty cents, yet its 
 cheapness is not its only recommendation, for the 
 crowds of customers are not of the tramping class ; 
 they are the foremen and workmen of the huge ware- 
 houses near by, the compositors, machinists, clerks, 
 salesmen, tradesmen and professional men who prac- 
 tice the dietetic moralities. Good bread, good butter, 
 and good coffee — has it not almost passed into a pro- 
 verb that these are the first requisites to an excellent 
 table? and taking the country over, away from the 
 very large bakeries and the very best hotels are there 
 any articles seldomer to be found? 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 171 
 
 685. 
 
 Fairy Butter. 
 
 The yolkf of 4 hard boiled eggs. 
 
 1 teacupful of the best butter. 
 
 3 heaping tablespoonfuls powdered sugar. 
 
 1 teaspoonful orange flower water. 
 
 Either grate the yolks or pound and rub them 
 smooth in a bowl, mix the softened butter with them 
 and the sugar and flavoring. Set the mixture where 
 it will get cold, and afterward rub it through a 
 sieve. It looks something like vermicelli. 
 
 Pile the fairy butter lightly in the middle of a cake 
 dish, cut the snow cake in slices and lay around. 
 They are to be eaten together like bread and butter. 
 
 686. 
 
 Apple Souffle. 
 
 On account of the scarcity of culinary terms, the 
 word soufflle has to stand for a great number of 
 light articles that may have very little resemblance 
 to each other. This consists of a border of dry 
 stewed apple raised in a large dish or an ice cream 
 saucer, as the case may be, the hollow middle filled 
 with boiled custard and whipped white of egg and 
 sugar, like the frosting on lemon pies, piled on top. 
 It need not be baked, but the top may be browned 
 by holding a red hot shovel over it on the shelf in 
 the oven. Served cold. 
 
 681. Egrg Lemonade for Fifty. 
 
 8 quarts of water — a tin milk pail full. 
 
 8 pounds of sugar — 6 or 7 cupfuls. 
 
 2 dozen lemons. 
 
 2 oranges. 
 
 8 or 10 whites of eggs. 
 
 Shaved or broken ice. 
 
 Grate the rinds of 8 or 10 of the lemons and the 
 oranges into a large bowl, using a tin grater, and take 
 less or more, according to the size and degree of 
 ripeness or greenness of the fruit. Scrape off the 
 grated rind that adheres. Put a little sugar in the 
 bowl, and rub the zest and sugar together with the 
 back of a spoon. Squeeze in the juice of all, add 
 W sugar and some water and then the whites of 
 eggs, and beat the mixture till the sugar is dissolved ; 
 put in water to make the specified amount and 
 strain the lemonade into another vessel containing 
 ice. 
 
 When to be served fill a glass three parts full, in- 
 vert another on top, the rims close together, and 
 shake up to make the foam. 
 
 688. 
 
 Plain Lemonade. 
 
 Three or four lemons, according to size, and a 
 small cup of sugar to a quart of water. Slice th^ 
 lemons into the water beforehand, and let stand. 
 Put shaved ice in the glasses before filling. 
 
 Clear lemonade can be obtained by filtering it, 
 when made, through blotting paper folded to fit in 
 a glass funnel. 
 
 080. 
 
 Catawaba Oup. 
 
 To each bottle of dry catawba allow two bottles 
 of soda water and a quarter pint of curacoa, mix in 
 a pitcher, and add ice abundantly. If not conveni- 
 ent to get bottled soda, use water and sugar or 
 lemonade to mix with the wine and liqueur. 
 
 690. Tea for a Large Party. 
 
 To make what tea-drinkers call a real good cup of 
 tea take nearly a teaspoonful of green tea for each 
 cup, or 4 teaspoonfuls to 5 cups of water, the leaves 
 absorbing 1 cup. But then there is a second draw- 
 ing that brings this out. 
 
 Four ounces of tea contain 28 teaspoonfuls or 2 
 cupfuls, rounded np. Using mixed tea, and allow- 
 ing time to draw to draw 2 cupfuls of tea is sufficient 
 to put into 40 cups of water, or a quarter-pound of 
 tea to 2^ gallons of water, which is the same thing 
 in other words. 
 
 The best way to make tea for a number is to have 
 the water boiling in an urn and put the tea in a box 
 made of perforated tin and drop it into the water, 
 which must then be stopped from boiling. 
 
 691. 
 
 White Ooflfee. 
 
 Is made with coffee that, instead of being browned, 
 is only baked to a slight yellow color and is not 
 ground, or at most the berries are only bruised, and 
 is made with one-half milk and one-half water. It 
 requires twice as much coffee as the ordinary. 
 
 For 8 cups t ke : 
 
 2 cupfuls of light baked coffee berries. 
 
 4 cupfuls of boiling water. 
 
 5 cupfuls of boiling milk. 
 
 The berries may have been parched before, but 
 when wanted heat them over again and throw them 
 hot into the boiling water. Close the lid and let 
 stand to draw for half an hour, then add the boiling 
 milk through a strainer. 
 
 When the milk is first set on to boil, put in a 
 tablespoonfal or two of sugar to prevent burning at 
 the bottom. Serve sugar with the coffee as usual, 
 and, if for a party, a spoonful of whipped cream in 
 each cup. | 
 
 69Ia. 
 
 Chocolate. 
 
 1 quart of milk and water. 
 
 4 ounce of chocolate. 
 
 Boil the milk and water in a small, bright sauce- 
 pan. Scrape down an ounce as marked on the half 
 pound cakes of common chocolate, throw it in and 
 beat with a wire egg whisk about one minute, or till 
 the chocolate is all dissolved. 
 
172 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 Silver Plated Skewers or Atelets.— See No. 783, 
 
 Sabatier Cooks' Knives.— All sizes. 
 
 Scollop Knife.— For potatoes and other Vegetables. See No. 963. 
 
 A la Mode Lard- 
 ing^ Needle.— 
 See No. 1234. 
 
 Tin Vegetable 
 Cutters.- Many 
 
 Parisienne and Nantaise Potato Spoons.— For scooping balls, olives, patterns and 
 
 berries, etc., out of potatoes and beets. See Nos. 953 and 730. sizes, also, for 
 
 cutting custard 
 shapes for galan- 
 tine ornaments. 
 
 Hotel Saucepans.— Both copper and tinned iron. 
 
THE 
 
 ^HOTEL^-BOOK^ 
 
 OF 
 
 Salads and Cold Dishes. 
 
 SALAD bRESSINGS, WITH AND WITHOUT OIL; SALADS OF ALL KINDS, 
 
 HOW TO MAKE AND HOW TO SERVE THEM; BONED 
 
 FOWLS, GALANTINES, ASPICS, ETC, ETC. 
 
 BEING A PART OF THE 
 
 '^OvEN AND Range" Series. 
 
 BY 
 
 JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 1804. 
 
THE AMEBIOAN COOK. 
 
 176 
 
 THE HOTEL BOOK OP SALADS. 
 
 * And light words spoken 
 Only for something to say.** 
 Whatever other matters may have been already 
 writtea to death there is, it is plain to see, a great 
 dearth of writers on the subject of salads, at least in 
 our own langung"; it seems as if this had been re- 
 garded as a foreigQ affair and not of home interest 
 at all. The things, consequently, that never have 
 been written but ought to be would, if written, fill a 
 very much larger volume than this is intended to 
 be, and lest our title seem to promise too much it 
 may be proper to say we are not going to try to take 
 them all in. However, in the way of practical salad 
 making, we will try to crowd into small space 
 nearly everything that can be pressed into the hotel 
 service, the herbs and fruits that are taken like some 
 people's statements, cum grano salts, with many an- 
 other 
 
 • '—rich herbaceous treat 
 Might tempt a dying anchorite to eat. " 
 
 and enough cf tbe ornamental f^r extra occasions. 
 The daily bill of fare writer, whatever other ofl&ce 
 mny be his, who, tired of repeating the three or four 
 stock salads, si's running his fingers through his 
 hair and w mdering what in the nstjoa Le shall 
 write next, will very likely find in the following 
 lists just the suggestion he wants, for the very good 
 reason that they have been prepared and adapted 
 under extremely similar circumstances. We wish 
 to offer a set of instructions valuable to hotel econo- 
 mists, to those who take pride in their table, per 
 hips to hotel working boys and girls who have their 
 living to make, for common labor is plenty and 
 abject enough; it is tkill that wins the good posi- 
 tions and good pay, but skill that can adapt itself, 
 skill to do that which everyone else in the house 
 may be deficient in, even sometimes to make brick 
 wiihout straw, to make salad sans oil. Bans celery, 
 sans chicken, sans everything that most people deem 
 essential. 
 
 But when it com^s to the salad-making of the 
 veritable gistronomer, tbe scientific epicure, the 
 avowed dinuer giving and dinner taiiiog bon vivant, 
 it is time f.r us hotel workers to lay down the pen 
 end shut up — the book. Not that we think the best 
 if our tr^de salids inferior, but because he is sure 
 that his are and must be incomparably above (hem. 
 
 together a sufficient variety of materials for our 
 ea' ad-making, let us to work. 
 
 G92, Mayonaise Salad Dressinsf. 
 
 *' Three times the spoon with oil of Lucca crow% 
 
 And once with vinegar procured from town." 
 
 3 or 4 raw yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 teacupful of olive oil. 
 
 About half as much vinegar. 
 
 A teaspoonful of salt. 
 
 Drop the yolks into a bowl, soup plate, or deep, 
 bright saucepan, add about as much oil and stir 
 them together with a wooden spoon — or any other 
 kind of a spoon — for a minute or two, then com- 
 mence beating and add oil a tablespoonful at a time. 
 After five minutes stirring and beating, the oil being 
 more than half in, throw in the salt and begin ad- 
 ding the vinigar also by spoonfuls. On the addition 
 of the salt the mayonaise will be very likely to 
 thicken up at once and the vinegar is required to 
 reduce it, as well as for flavor. 
 
 The above is the way of making plain, straight- 
 forward mayonaise that is practiced by cooks and 
 their assistants daily all over the country, and being 
 such a very simple operation there is no wonder if 
 they do not see the reason for making so much ado 
 about it. It takes ten or fifteen minutes to bring it 
 to the proper consistence. There might be diflficulty 
 ifthe ingredients were warm; as a matter of habit 
 cooks always keep the oil in a cold place. In hot 
 weather set the bowl in ice water. Mayonaise of 
 the required thickness cannot probably be made 
 with a smaller proportion of oil, but the same yolks 
 will take up much more if need be, 
 
 693. 
 
 A quicker way than the foregoing is : Place the 
 
 yolks in a deep quart bowl — set in ice water, if 
 warm weather — add a spoonful of oil and whip with 
 a Dover egg beater. In half a minute add more oil, 
 then the salt, and the mixture will at once become 
 like bu'ter. Keep thinning with oil and vinegar as 
 in the other case^ three proportions of oil to one of 
 vinegar. 
 
 694. Uses of the Mayonaise. 
 
 The mayonaise when right is like softened butter, 
 only more tenacious— too thick to run. It is to be 
 spread smoothly over the top of the pile or shape of 
 salad material, over the fillet of fish or form of lob- 
 ster or shrimp, or over the whole fish — giving a 
 glossy yellow surface to be ornamented as desired. 
 It is to be eaten with the salad material as butter 
 would be. Sometimes for ornamental purposes it is 
 stirred into the too loose material to make taller 
 shapes. 
 
 It is to be mixed with about an equal amount of 
 
176 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 aspic jelly — (the jelly being cold enough \o be ju3t 
 on the point of setting) to form coli tartar sauce — 
 a yell>w, flavored acid jelly. Also mixed with 
 different p eparations it makes sauces or dressings 
 of other colors — emerald green and cardinal 
 red. Besidei these employments it is used in the 
 form of 
 
 005* SALAD CaEAM, OB THIN MAYONAISE. 
 
 Reduce the thick mayonaise to the consistency of 
 cream by adding m re vinegar or vioegar and water 
 — in some cases milk or cream — and if you wish to 
 be particular use some clear strained chicken broth 
 (c -Id) or unseasoned soup stock with the vinegar, 
 instead of water. For lobster and other shell fish, 
 however, all vinegar may be used, as they take away 
 its sharpness. This salad cream used as a sauce 
 makes almost any kind of vegetable, meat and fish 
 palatable and relishing if served with it cold and 
 crisp. 
 
 Palatable, that is, to those who do not dislike 
 olive oil. And some of your people will make the 
 thin mayonaise for themselves. Some will choose 
 their dinner in courses even from an American form 
 bill of fare, and sa'ads are as ''familiar in their 
 mouths as household words." Seeing you have 
 mayonaise they are apt to order it plain and wiih 
 the condiment s and relishes before them make their 
 rwn varia ions on their own plates. 
 
 My Italian friend who almost invariably for his 
 own meals makes a salad, or at least something akin 
 to salad, with oil poured over, looks askance at the 
 vinegar and remarks : ''Along the shores of the 
 Mt diterraneau the people, the wealthy people, the 
 mercantile people, do not use vinegar more than to 
 the amount of a squeeze of a lemon — it is the com 
 mon people, the people of the interior, tl:e peasants 
 (and he shrugs his shoulders contemptuouslj) only 
 the peasants who pour vi icgar plentifully over their 
 green stuff and call it ealad '* A remark which 
 may serve to give the right hang of that Spanish 
 proverb about ealad-making: "A spendthrift for 
 oil, a niggaid for vinegar, and a madman to mix the 
 salad toge her " For there are those who think the 
 one who p urs-in any oil at all is the madman, and 
 at any rate think it will be better to let the spend- 
 thrift donate the vinegtr instead of the oil. There 
 are a so motives of ec nomy iu favor of the wrorg 
 reading; but we cooks are perfectly disinterested 
 and had just as lief make our dressing without oil 
 as not. 
 
 The following, if a rather large quantity for fifty 
 persons for dinner, is not too much for a supper 
 ealad on a hot summ^^r evening, when the thought 
 alone of all other food is wearisome disgust. 
 
 696. Hollandaise Salad Cream. 
 
 ^ pint of good white wine vinegar. 
 
 ^ pint scant of water, 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 12 yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 tablespoonful made mustard. 
 
 A pinch of cayenne. Salt. 
 
 Boil the vinegar, water, and salt and butter all 
 together in a bright saucepan. Beat the yolks a 
 little, add some of the boiling liquid and stir them 
 together, then mix all and let come to the boiling 
 point. It is on the same principal as making cus- 
 tard. If allowed to thoroughly boil it will curdle, 
 and have to be thrown away; if taken off too soon it 
 will not be rich and thick enough One minute of 
 stirring after the yolks are added is usually enough. 
 Strain and set on ice to be cold for use. 
 
 The preceding will be found eminently satisfactory 
 and can be used in almost every place that 
 mayonaise would be employed. It can be made 
 thicker or thinner as required, but when thinned 
 must be rapidly beaten and the liquid — water or 
 broth and vinegar — added by degrees, otherwise the 
 dressing may separate and the butter come to the 
 top. This, however, seldom occurs. 
 
 It is generally an object to have mayonaise creamy 
 white, for which purpose lemon juice is added to it, 
 but the hollandaise dressing is golden yellow, an<i 
 the better for vegetable salads like the following, 
 which have no good looks of their own. 
 
 60Y. 
 
 Lima Beans Salad. 
 
 2 quarts of cooked lima or butter beans. 
 
 A small onion. 
 
 A little chopped parsley. 
 
 The hollandaise salad oream of the preceding r^ 
 ceipt. 
 
 Mince the onion small. Mix all the ingredients 
 together by pouring from one bowl to another, ex- 
 cept the parsley, which chop and sprinkle over the 
 top. 
 
 And my Italian friend looked on dubiously when 
 he first saw me preparing to pour a mayonaise over 
 lima beans, and afterwards over corn, and green 
 peas, and string beans, as if he thought in Italian, 
 "To what, base uses may we come, Horatiol" 
 "But," I said, "you make the salade de legumes, 
 which is — excuse me — something of a vegetable hash; 
 these are at least simple and from their looks in- 
 viting. And you cut also beets in dice and mix m, 
 and they stain the cut potatoes, and the red juice 
 mingles with the pale yellow of the mayonaise and 
 makes an uneatable color." He put on his study- 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 177 
 
 ing cap and presently adopted the butter beans 
 salad, as well as the others, but he did not give up 
 the cut beets in salad cream. Mere matters of fancy 
 perhaps — but jet we presently discover which 
 things are popular. 
 
 Lima beans, so generally esteemed, in their green 
 state have but a very short season. Contrary to the 
 general rule, the dried are better than the canned 
 beans for winter use. 
 
 698. 
 
 The secret of cooking all dried beans soft is in the 
 
 following : 
 
 Wash and pick them over carefully and put them 
 on in plenty of cold water with a rounding teaspoon- 
 ful of soda for every two pounds of beans. 
 
 Boil about 2 or 3 hours till they begin to be sofr. 
 Then pour them suddenly ^into a colander to drain, 
 turn them back in the boiler and put in enough 
 fresh cold water to cover them. 
 
 Set them to boil again — in half an hour more they 
 will be thoroughly cooked. The sudden adding of 
 cold water to the hot beans causes the skin to crack, 
 after which they finish cooking easily. There is no 
 excuse for the stupidity of the mule-driving cooks 
 told of in Scribner's Monthly (Hocky Mountain 
 Cookery,) who carry the beans partly cooked in 
 their kettles and recook them for three successive 
 days in the vain attempt to make them soft. Our 
 lima beans are comparatively easy, but the most 
 refractory sample of navy beans can be reduced in 
 five hours by the above method even at an elevation 
 of 11,000 feet. 
 
 699. 
 
 Oaulifiower Salad. 
 
 4 to 6 pounds of cauliflower. 
 
 The hollandaise salad cream of the preceding re- 
 ceipt. 
 
 A little oil and vinegar. 
 
 Cut the branches of the cauliflower in the right 
 sized pieces for individual dishes while raw, trim 
 the stems off evenly, let stand in a pan of cold 
 water an hour or two. Set it on with plenty of cold 
 water to cover it, to boil, and add salt, but nothing 
 else. Cook till the thick stems will leave the fork 
 as in boiling potatoes — an hour or less. Drain 
 without breaking the pieces and set away to get cold 
 . Mix a little oil and vinegar with the cauliflower as 
 well as may be by careful pouiing from one bowl to 
 another. Over each piece placed on individual 
 dishes pour a spoonful of the salad creiim, which 
 should be thick enough to mask it and not run off in 
 the dish. 
 
 Cau'ifl iwer salad is worth decorating. A few 
 capers, French green peas shaken about in vinegar, 
 some small patterns stamped out of beet slices, or a 
 sprig of parsley. 
 
 For luncheon or a party dinner build up the cau- 
 liflower in pyramidal form, or like half a melon, wiih 
 fork and knife, laying the pieces in order around 
 the dish, the largest at the bottom, heads outward, 
 and another tier on top of that, the salad cream to 
 be poured over all, and decorate according to your 
 taste. 
 
 TOO. Sugar Corn Salad. 
 
 Like the Lima beans salad, and to be dished up 
 with the salad cream as a sauce, in vegetable dishes. 
 The grains of corn are required to be distinct and 
 clean and free from mush, and should be washed in 
 a colander for the purpose. 
 
 Before going on to describe the other available 
 everyday salad dressings let us include one more 
 variety best dressed with the bright hollandaise. 
 
 YOl. Vegetable Salad—Plain 
 
 Take equal parts of four, five or six kinds of 
 cooked vegetables — green peas, string beans, cauli- 
 flowers, asparagus heads not too soft cooked, corn, 
 Lima beans and potatoes, and a smaller proportion 
 of onions — if small green ones so much the better — 
 and a few slices of beets for ornament. Cut the po- 
 tatoes in small dice, the string beans and onions to 
 match, ani pull the cauliflower apart in small ppiigs 
 
 Mix all with a little seasoning of pepper and salt 
 and shake them about in the salad cream in a bowl. 
 
 Dishup with cut beets and chopped parsley sprink- 
 eled over the lop. 
 
 Cooks who care to follow the analogist will have 
 observed that hollandaise salad cream is very like 
 the hot hollandaise sauce used so much in the high- 
 est style cookery, not only for a fish sauce but 
 equally for asparagus, cauliflower, artichoke, pota- 
 toes, etc. The difference is only in the proportions 
 and in this being used cold. Hollandaise or Dutch 
 sauce by the English method is mi'der, the French 
 more concentrated and pungent. This dressing an- 
 swers the question of what we shall do when we 
 have no oil, and the people I have instruted with 
 pencillings by the way, have generally taken more 
 pleasure in making ii than the other more trouble- 
 some varieties. 
 
 Still when we have this and the genuine French 
 mayonaise there remains a want of which we are re- 
 minded when people looking over a table unsatis- 
 factorily furnished with lettuce without boiled eggs 
 on top, and over a bill of fare equally incomplete 
 send timidly asking the powers that be if they can't 
 have a hard-boiled egg or two for their salad. Such 
 persons have been known to send written on a bill 
 of fare the lines imputed to Sidney Smith : 
 "True flavor needs it, and your poet begs 
 The pounded yellow of two well- boiled eggs. " 
 
178 
 
 THE AMEEICAN COOK. 
 
 Well, we are coming to that kind of dressing, but 
 having in mind the common aversion to and common 
 scarcity of huile d* olives vierge, will offer for the ex- 
 periments of the critical in such matters a refine- 
 ment upon the foregoing hollandaise. 
 
 702. Salad Cream "Without Oil. 
 
 1 cupful of best butter. 
 
 ^ cupful of vinegar — large. 
 
 6 raw yolks. 
 
 1 cupful of thin cream. 
 
 J teaspoonful of sah. 
 
 Cayenne and white pepper, of each as much as 
 would lie on a dime. 
 
 Boii the vinrgir and butter together in a deep 
 bowl-shiiped saucepan. Beat the yolks light. Pour 
 the boiling vinegir and butter to them gradu-illy 
 while still beaing, then place the mixture on the 
 fire again. It is very liable to burn at the bottom 
 and must be beaten rapidly till it begins to thicken. 
 Then commence and slowly pour in the cup of milk 
 or cream and continue beating till the salad dress- 
 ing looks like cream or boiled custard. It must 
 not quite boil else it will curdle. Add the salt and 
 pepper and beat it in a pan of ice water till cold. 
 
 A porcelain lined saucepan should be used for the 
 above. If you cinnot stay with the silad cream till 
 fifiihed set the saucepan in a pan of boiling wate/ 
 and beat it up frequently as you pass. 
 
 V03. 
 
 Oyster Salad. 
 
 1 quart of fresh oysters. 
 
 1 quart of chopped celery. 
 
 Either the hollandaise or the salad cream of the 
 preceding receipt. 
 
 Drain the oysters from their liquor. Cut them in 
 halves or quartera. Mix with the chopped celery 
 and pour the dressing over. 
 
 Half lettuce and half celery will answer for the 
 preceding, or tender white cabbage may be used. 
 Oyster salad is in demand. 
 
 'Y04. Canned Cove Oyster Salad. 
 May be made like the foregoing, the liquor being ex- 
 cluded, at.d also with boiled potatoes cut in dice 
 in any other salad dressing. 
 
 Clams cin be used as above in time of need. U?e 
 some of the clam liquor to thin the salad dressing 
 with, instead of water. 
 
 70S. 
 
 Ham Salad. 
 
 Excellent change from potato salad for hotel sup- 
 
 pers. 
 
 1 quart of boiled potatoes, in dice. 
 
 1 quart of celery and lettuce. 
 
 1 quart of lean boiled ham, minced. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of made mustard, 
 
 1 do celery extract. 
 
 The Jiollandaise or any of the foregoing salad 
 creams. 
 
 Use the shank meat of boiled ham; chop it fine in 
 a wooden bowl. Cut the vegetables neatly in dice 
 of uniform appearance. Mix well with the dress- 
 ing. 
 
 Now what can we careful managers of provisions 
 best do with a whole panful of nice white celery (in 
 ice water) when all the heart pieces have already 
 been picked out and eaten with salt only ? There 
 are but two or three ways of cooking celery, and 
 very little suffices for that. 
 
 700. 
 
 Celery Salad. 
 
 "Let onion atoms lurk within the bowl, 
 And scarce suspected animate the whole." 
 2 quarts of celery cut in small dice. 
 The cream salad dressing of the last receipt. 
 An onion grated or finely minced. 
 Little salt. 
 
 Mix well. Serve very cold with a little parsley 
 sprinkled over the top. Best for lunch when there 
 is cold chicken beside, or other cold meat. 
 
 HARICOTS VEBTS EN MAYONAISE, 
 
 In other words string beans salad, appears in a 
 menu of a dinner of the royal family of Spain, one 
 that has been preserved as a model, among many 
 others. 
 
 Whenever canned vegetables have to be used — ^and 
 some of the best brands do very very well for salads 
 — drain the liquor from them and rinse them in 
 fresh hot water before using. 
 
 "But where are those hard-boiled eggs?" 
 *«Coming up!" 
 
 "In dressing salad, mind this law! 
 
 With two hard yolks use one that's raw.*' 
 
 701. 
 
 American Favorite Salad Dressinsr. 
 
 6 hard-boiled eggs (the yolks only needed). 
 
 2 or 3 raw yolks* 
 
 J cupful of olive oil. 
 
 ^ cupful of melted fresh butter. 
 
 1 cupful of vinegar. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of made mustard. 
 Little black pepper and cayenne. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 179 
 
 Pound the hard-boiled yolis quite smooth in a 
 bowl with the WArm butter, add the silt, mustard 
 and peppBr, and then beat in the oil gradually, and 
 alternately with tlie vinegar. The bowl should be 
 Bet in ice water in warm weather. This makes a 
 buttery compound, that may be reduced either wi'h 
 eold chicken liquor, cream, or vinegar and water, 
 according to the requirement. 
 
 T08. 
 
 Best Potato Salad. 
 
 Favorite hotel supper dish. 
 2 quarts of boiled potatoes. 
 
 1 sm til onion. 
 
 2 tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley. 
 
 The popular salad dressing of the preceding re- 
 ceipt. 
 
 Slice or break the potatoes, mince the onion ex- 
 tremely small, mix, pour the dreesiog over and 
 combine thoroughly by turning the ealad from one 
 bowl to another three or four timej. Throw the 
 fresh chopped parsley into it just before serving. 
 The whites of the eggs may be added, cut in strips. 
 
 The foregoing is the formula, the rut to run in, 
 but how shall we infuse life into it or explain the 
 particular knack which makes one person' s^ potato 
 salad 80 utterly unlike and superior to another's ? 
 Cold potatoes which have remained in the dinner 
 steamers three hours, then are peeled and sliced, 
 may do — the dressing will carry the burden of their 
 inferiority, but they are not best. 
 
 Tal^e new potatoes if you can, if not, good 
 mealy old ones, pare and^ divide in large pieces. 
 Throw them in cold salted water and boil about half 
 an hour, or till j ust done. Drain the water from 
 them and break the largest pieces apart with a 
 twist of a fork. When nearly cold mix the dressing 
 with the potatoes and set the bowl on ice till wanted* 
 
 We obtain the best salads with the least fuss 
 when we can get those trifling cooks, two or more 
 of them, to run a rivalry with each other who can 
 make the best. The last described dressing is a 
 little tedioup, being a double compound of cooked 
 and raw. The person dishing up vegetables during 
 the slow latter end of dinner generally can prepare 
 it between times to be ready for the next meal. 
 
 All these salad dressings are susceptible of im- 
 provement by added flavorings, and the epicure 
 gets in his extra harmonies in that way. Not to 
 confuse rur dirpctions we will treat of the flavoring 
 complications by themselvrs in a special chapter. 
 
 A scarcity of eggs often makes us employ a salad 
 dressing tl at can be made without any, for hotel 
 mea's go on incessantly, but another reason for the 
 
 following being kept in mind is its wh'teness to 
 contrast with the preceding kinds, which are all 
 yellow. 
 
 710. AUemande Salad Dressinff* 
 
 ^ cupful of best butter. 
 
 1 lablespoonful of flour. 
 
 ^ cupful of olive oil. 
 
 ^ cupful of vinegar. 
 
 1 cupful of strong chicken or veal broth. 
 
 Salt and white pepper. 
 
 Little cream to thin and whiten the dressing. 
 
 Mix the butter and flour together in a saucepan 
 over the fire as if making drawn butter, pour in the 
 oil and then the broth gradually, stirring till it 
 thickens, and then the vinegar, salt and pepper, and 
 lastly the cream. 
 
 Strain and set on ice till wanted. 
 
 The bro;h should be strong enough to set in jelly 
 when cold, and should be strained through a napkin 
 before it is used for the dressing. 
 
 711. Potato Salad a rAUemande. 
 
 2 quarts of potatoes cut in dice* 
 
 3 or 4 green onions, with part of the tops. 
 8 or 4 radishes. 
 
 1 head of lettuce cut small. 
 
 The allemande dressing of the preceding receipt. 
 
 Mix all the vegetables and pour the dressing over, 
 or reserve the radishes to ornament the tops of the 
 dishes, or else use cress or parsley for that purpose. 
 
 The same dressing will serve for various other 
 vegetable salads as well as the above, and for fish 
 and chicken when there is a mayonaise for border 
 and this for top^^dressing. 
 
 'Rubbing the Dish with Gaelic. 
 
 There are yarns and yarns about great secrets in 
 c )okery andj their ^ possessors,! like one in the 
 Kepobteb recently of a castaway Frenchman who 
 made the fortune of a Russian innkeeper and of the 
 town by imparting the secret of French chicken 
 fiicassee. What a curious scrap-book might be 
 made if some of the people who have time.to play 
 would collect these wonderful gastronomical and 
 culinary anecdotes I 
 
 The really good cooks of the country practice 
 thousands of the fine touches which the uninitiated 
 might term great secrets, and throw them all into 
 the grand aggregate that is styled excellence of the 
 hotel cuisine. Some of these fine touches lie in 
 flavoring salads, more particularly the salad dress« 
 ings, and one of them is to rub the salad dish with 
 garlic. There was a head waiter in Boston once 
 
180 
 
 THB AMEBICAN COOK. 
 
 who nibbed the dish with garlic and his Balads were 
 in great repute, though none could teli the sscret of 
 the subtle aroma they possessed. If any looked for 
 Tulgar garlic in the salad they found none. It was 
 only a case of the scent of the roses that huog round 
 it still. Sort of hook baitirg trick, an illusion, as it 
 were. Pos&ibly some castaway Frenchman had im- 
 parted this secret to this head waiter of the Boston 
 hotel, but it was impossible for it to remain un- 
 shared, and so a waiter, after a while, discovered 
 his superior rubbing the dish with garlic. Now two 
 persons possessed the secret and of covr^e they 
 could not both live in one house. There used to be 
 an awful story told about the great Captain Cook 
 and his too smart cabin boy who, when at the anti- 
 podes, was asked by the gleeful captain if be knew 
 where he was, and had the indiscretion to answer 
 "under London bridge." But the captain would 
 not allow anyone to remain in the vessel who knew 
 as much as he did himself, and pitched the poor boy 
 overboard, which was very shocking, and that is 
 about what happened to this poorjwailer, so he went 
 West. 
 
 T13. 
 
 Francatelli instructing the English cooks in French 
 
 cookery could not quite abandon garlic, but found 
 it necessary to warn them not to use a head of gar- 
 lic, but only one clove, and took occasion to remark, 
 "Over-seasoning is the bane of English cookery." 
 
 A little touch of garlic is desirable, it is the petit 
 point <r ail in a. ragout praised by Sir Walter Scott. 
 And this is but one of many flavorings to be used 
 with discretion, for which no directions can be giv- 
 en. The foregoing will perhaps give point to the 
 following excerpt from Brillat-Savarin, so far as to 
 call attention to the flavorings named : 
 
 " I prefer] to tell the story of a Frenchman of 
 Limousin, who made his fortune in London by his 
 skill in mixing a salad. Although his means were 
 very limited, Albignac (so he was c lied, if I re- 
 member right) went one day to dine in one of the 
 most famous taverns in London. Whilst he was 
 finishing his succulent beefsteak, there were five or 
 six young dandies of good family regaling them- 
 selves at a neighboring table. One of them came to 
 him and sa"d very politely: 'Sir, it is said that 
 your nation excels in the art of making salads; will 
 you be so good as oblige us by mixing one?' 
 
 "D'Albignac consenting, after a little hesitation, 
 ordered all that he thought necessary for the expect- 
 ed masterpiece, used his best endeavors, "and had 
 the good luck to succeed. 
 
 "Whilst studying the ingredients, he answered 
 frankly all questions about himself. He said he 
 was an emigrant and admitted, not without some 
 natural shame, that he was receiving ass'stance 
 from the English government — a circumstance 
 which no doubt authorized one of the young men to 
 slip into the exile's hand a five-pound note, and in- 
 
 sist on his keeping it. 
 
 '•He had given his address, and some time after, 
 he received a very civil note, requesting him to go 
 and mix a salad in one of the finest houses in Gros- 
 venor Square. D'Albignac arrived punctually, 
 after furnishing himself with some special season, 
 ings and maturing his plans. He had the good luck 
 to succeed again. 
 
 "The first party for whom he had manipulated 
 had exaggerated the merits of his salad, and the 
 second company made so much more noise about it, 
 that d'Albignac's reputationwas already made. He 
 was known as the fashionable salad maker, and soon 
 had a gig, in order to keep his appointments, with a 
 servant to bring his mahogany case containing all 
 the ingredients — such as vinegars of diflferent fla- 
 vors, oils with or without a fruity taste, soy, 
 caviare, truffles, anchovies, ketchups, gravies, and 
 even hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 "Later he got cases made to order, furnished 
 them completely and sold them by hundreds. In 
 short he came to realize a fortune of more than 
 eighty thousand francs." 
 
 ^14. 
 
 In those countries where butter is held in little 
 
 esteem and olive oil in a large degree takes its 
 place, it may naturally be surmised the fastidious 
 people are as particular in the quality of oil and its 
 combinations and critical of their flavors as Ameri- 
 cans and English of '-Cold Spring Creamery Gilt 
 Edged" and the famous "Suff'olk Dairy Butter." 
 The impossibility of improving the flavor of butter 
 by any addition does not exist in regard to oil, and 
 it seems quite possible for connoiseurs to surprise 
 the palate of their friends by new admixtures, 
 especially in mayonaise and salads. In Kussia, it is 
 said, the oil of sunflower seed is largely used for 
 salad making. The olive oil which now comes from 
 California has much the same nutty flavor, or per- 
 haps more resembles the taste of beech nuts. The 
 best we can ask for is to have oil as nearly tasteless 
 as possible if we want to make salads more popular, 
 and above all reject the oil which is sold cheap 
 because it has become rancid, just as we reject strong 
 butter. 
 
 If we cannot afford to select our oils of various 
 brands — "wither without a fruity taste" — accord- 
 ing to the use intended, we need not be so restrict- 
 ed in the choice of vinegars of various flavors, to 
 give variety to the miyonaise. 
 
 French cooks who disagree in most things are all 
 agreed in using tarragon vinegar for salad dressings 
 whenever it can-be had and look with a withering 
 sort of pity on the American cook who has never had 
 even a pint of it bought for his use in the whole 
 course of his life. They don't know how thankful 
 he is if even the plain vinegar furnished proves not 
 to be diluted sulphuric acid. 
 
 Tarragon and other flavored vinegars which con- 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 181 
 
 noiseurs regard as indispensible can be bought like 
 any other good thing ready prepared, but where it 
 cannot be had for the asking it may be worth while 
 for the cook to make his own. 
 
 715. 
 
 Tarragon Vinegar. 
 
 Green tarragon is a herb and can be bought of the 
 market gardeners in large cities. It is said to be 
 best and strongest just as the plant is going into 
 blossom. 
 
 1 pound of tarragon leaves. 
 
 4 quarts of white wine vinegar. 
 
 Let steep in a stone jar two weeks. 
 
 Then filter it through a flannel jelly bag, add to it 
 a quarter ounce of isinglass (gelatine will do) dis- 
 solved in warm cider or vinegar, to clarify it, bottle 
 it and let it stand a month, when it is to be decanted 
 into small bottles to keep. 
 
 But hotel cooks can never do all that, whicli is a 
 foreign method for phlegmatic people. Reader, did 
 you ever go into the bar- room of a back country 
 hotel — say in Missouri — though Peck's Sun says 
 Iowa — and see on the back shelf a series of home 
 made extracts, jars of whiskey with something in it? 
 One of these is tansy — green tansy leaves put in to 
 flavor the liquor. That is for tansy bitters. An- 
 other has peaches. That is for peach and sugar. 
 Others have cherries, lemon peel, orange peel. They 
 are for we know not what. But tarragon can be 
 steeped in cold vinegar like tansy in whisky, and 
 half a pint of flavored vinegar thus be had at any 
 time. Use it sparingly in piace of part of the plain 
 vinegar in any of the salad dressings, not flavoring 
 strongly, however, as tarragon is a stranger to most 
 of our people. 
 
 Tarragon Vinegar. 
 
 1 pound of green tarragon, partly dried before 
 using. 
 
 6 small onions. 
 
 1 ounce of long pepper. 
 
 3 quarts of white wine or cider vinegar. 
 
 Put the whole in a stone jug, cork and let steep 
 several weeks. Strain through a napkin or silk seive 
 before using. 
 
 TIG. 
 
 Chili Vinegar. 
 
 Common pepper sauce. Dilute a bottle with two 
 quarts of vinegar for salad seasoning. A table- 
 spoonful is enough to mix in a salad. 
 
 Til. 
 
 Celery Vinegar. 
 
 2 pounds of the solid celery roots and stalks that 
 you cannot use on the table — all white, however, 
 
 and sweet. 
 
 2 quarts of vinegar. 
 
 Mince the celery small. Boil the vinegar and pour 
 it to the celery in a stone jar. Add a tablespoonful 
 of salt, stir up, let steep till next day then strain 
 into a demijohn or stone jug and cork it tight. 
 This may be used in almost all salads in place of part 
 of the plain vinegar. 
 
 Eight ounces of celery seed scalded with a quart 
 of boiling vinegar and let stand to steep makes the 
 same kind of flavored vinegar as the foregoing. 
 
 But celery extract ready prepared is cheap enough 
 and more convenient than either. 
 
 718. 
 
 Garlio Vinegar. 
 
 4 heads of garlic, sliced. 
 
 1 ounce of red peppers, chopped. 
 
 ^ teacupful of walnut ketchup. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 2 quarts of vinegar. 
 
 Put all in a stone jar, cold, and keep covered 
 Used for Russian, Italian, Polish and Spanish 
 salads. With the pulp of a few pounded anchovies 
 added, and a little red coloring the above is the 
 sauce called carachi. 
 
 719. 
 
 Caper Vinegar. 
 
 Turn a bottle of French capers and their vinegar 
 into a quart of white wine vinegar in a jug. Strain 
 before using. This is best for the Allemande dress- 
 ing. 
 
 730. Nasturtium Vinegar. 
 
 Vinegar flavored with pickled nasturtium seeds, 
 same as capers. The seeds are also very useful for 
 mixing in and decorating salads. 
 
 HZt. 
 
 Beet Vinegar. 
 
 Used occasionally for coloring, is the vinegar in 
 which sliced beets have lain, boiled down to about 
 one half, to make it stronger and to make it keep 
 without spoiling. 
 
 Strawberry, mulberry, raspberry and other vine- 
 gars of fruit not sweetened, are made by steeping 
 the fruit in vinegar and boiling down, as above, then 
 bottling. 
 
 The vinegar from walnut pickles, also vine<;;ar 
 made pungent with grated horseradish are also u?ed 
 for salad seasoning, but not in ordinary life. T*?ey 
 are mentioned for information rather than user 
 
182 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 VI3;3* Compound Vinegar. 
 
 1 pound of larragon. 
 
 4 ounces of mustard seeds. 
 6 cloves of garlic. 
 6 small onions. 
 . 4 ounces cf elder blossoms. 
 
 2 ounces of long pepper. 
 ^ ounce of cloves. 
 
 4 quarts of white wine vinegar. 
 Put all together to steep in a two-gallon jug cork- 
 ed tight and let stand several weeks before using. 
 
 With such compounds as the above and others 
 doubtless more fanciful than useful we may suppose 
 d'Albignac of Limousin filled the vials which he sold 
 by the case to the fashionable salad-crazed London- 
 ers of sixty years since. 
 
 Y23. Perpetual Hotel Salad. 
 
 Although some cf the things just examined into 
 may be out of the regular routine, and occasion an 
 impatient Bhrug, let us not pass them without some 
 consideration, or rather let us go to the extreme 
 contrast of the perpetual salad that we sreused to. 
 Perpetual salad has no dressing and wants no flavor- 
 ing nor aromatic vinegars — only vinegar, pepper 
 and salt. And — oh, yes, onions — lots of onions — 
 we had neaily forgot. It is said Americans are 
 ecarcely more salsd-loving than the English, and 
 some have never tasted salad, yet who does not 
 know this one — the perpetual salad made by the 
 frugal cook ? It is always made after dinner. Into 
 a deep tin pan — in nice places it may be a bowl — 
 goes all the boiled potatoes that have been left over, 
 and then an onion sliced. Then there will be some 
 beets, beans, peas, butter beans, perhaps corn, then 
 some onions, pepper, salt, vinegar, and it may be 
 some fried bacon and the fat poured over, and this 
 salad has been known to have diluted cooked toma- 
 toes mixed in. Some ft ugal cooks will make dis- 
 tinctions — will have prejudices. One draws the line 
 at corn, and appeals to authority: "Who ever heard 
 of corn being put in salad ?" Another will set his 
 ^e against peas, and so on, but at any rate there 
 will be potatoes and onions left, and beets, pepper, 
 ■alt and vinegar. No oil. It would be easy to make 
 fun of this, but wherefore ? It is all right, only too 
 crude, too perpetual. It is always for supper, and 
 is at least better than none. It is so good it ought 
 to be made still better and more various. 
 
 With the potatoes cut in dice all of a size, the 
 string beans cut in lengths diamond-shaped of size 
 to match, the green peas washed from their sauce in 
 warm water, the corn likewise, the onions greatly 
 reduced in quantity and also cut to match; with a 
 little green stuff such as cress or parsley, or a very 
 little green onion tops, or celery, sprinkled in, and 
 
 with carrots, pickles and capers, as well as beets, 
 cut to correspond and mixed in only at the last 
 minute, this salad will be fine, and need not be al- 
 ways alike. With any one of the easy salad dress- 
 ings already directed to be made poured over and 
 shaken about in it the salad will be stylish, 
 attractive, enjoyable. Or, without a dressing of 
 the made kind, with a little oil added and some 
 chopped eggs this combination of ma'eriais that 
 costs next to nothing will be equal to some of the 
 best salads of the best cooks, with high-sounding 
 names. 
 
 We will go on and instance various foreign mix- 
 tures of the same class, first taking a lessen from 
 one of the noted French cooks — Jules Goufie— and 
 as it is not an exact receipt to be proven but rather 
 a general lesson in salad making we copy the follow- 
 ing as we find it. He says : 
 
 TS^. MACEDOINE SALAD. 
 
 "The following incident first led me to prepare this 
 salad: Whilst staying at a friend's country house, 
 the mistress of the house came ;_to me in great dis- 
 tress, and confided to me that her supplies having 
 failed, she was quite at a loss how to entertain her 
 numerous guests, and asked me to assist her. 
 When I investigated the state of the larder, I found 
 there nothing but cold meat and poultry, and cold 
 game; all these I took, and, after carefully paring 
 and cutting them up, I made them into a huge salad 
 which I mixed with an abundant and highly sea- 
 soned Mayonnaise sauce, adding lettuce, olive?, an- 
 chovies, hard boiled eggs, pickles, and some 
 chopped tarragon, chervil and shalots. This salad, 
 preceded by a good soup, and followed by sweets 
 and fruit, was highly appreciated by the hungry 
 guests." 
 
 With all the materials mentioned it cannot be said 
 the cupboard was very bare anyway, and the salad 
 was neither cheap nor simple, nor hard to imitate; 
 but does not the proceeding show the difference in 
 national customs? An American would never have 
 thought of making a salad, nor would the American 
 hostess have felt comfortable seeing all the provisions 
 going into that sort of compound. Some of us in- 
 stead would likely have made a bill of fare of about 
 120 dishes out of the material used to make the din- 
 ner described. 
 
 A macedoine salad, like a macedoine of vegeta- 
 bles, or of fruits, or macedoine jelly, is a mixture of 
 any number of different kinds and colors all cut to 
 one size. Goufife says his abundant mayonaise was 
 highly seasoned. Elsewhere he says mayonaise 
 should be highly flavored. Some salads contain 
 very high flavored ingredients and a small quantity 
 suflfices, as pome reject them altogether. Mayonaise 
 may contain a large amount of mustard, used in 
 place of part of the raw eggs. Salads may have the 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 188 
 
 "piquant flayor and delicate seasoning of the 
 sausages of Aries," praised by both Dumas and Sa- 
 ▼arin — pepper, salt and garlic with smoked beef. 
 
 7Z5. 
 
 Hamburg Salad. 
 
 2 large boiled potatoes cut in dice. 
 1 cupful of celery, same way. 
 ^ cupful each of smoked halibut, dried beef and 
 red smoked tongue all cut small. 
 
 1 small onion. 
 
 2 cloves of garlic finely minced. 
 
 1 or 2 red peppers out of the pickle jar, 
 
 6 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 The dried beef and tongue should be first cooked 
 by boiling several hours. The celery is better if 
 blanched (parboiled.) Mix all, except the eggs, in 
 a bowl and shake about with oil poured in till the 
 mixture looks rich and glossy, then add a cupful of 
 vinegar. Ornament with the yolks of eggs chopped 
 fine and the whites cut in strips. 
 
 A German Salad— Herring Salad. 
 
 1 or 2 large smoked herrings. 
 
 1 cupful of pickled red cabbage, chopped small. 
 
 1 cupful of slices of salsify or oyster plant- 
 cooked. 
 
 1 cupful of chopped white cabbage. 
 
 Pepper, salt, oil, vinegar. 
 
 Free the meat of the herrings from bones and skin 
 and mince it as nearly in dice shape as may be. 
 The salsify may be substituted with potatoes if 
 necessary, cut in dice or lozenge shapes. Mix all 
 wi' h oil, vinegar, pepper and salt. 
 
 727. 
 
 While ^re are yet exploring for strong and pungent 
 
 ingredients with which perhaps some knowing one 
 m'gbt "unwonted richness to the salad give," it 
 msy be noticed that the repertory of the salad-mak- 
 ing D'Albignac of Limousin included both caviare 
 and truffles. People who enjoy anchovy toast; 
 which is toast spread with anchovy paste or anchovy 
 but!er, or canapes auz anchois; pieces of toast with 
 filleted anchovies, will doubtless like canapes au 
 caviare. These are all good ealad accompaniments, 
 and as anchovies are commonly used in salads there 
 is no good reason why caviare might not, but^it is 
 more likely it was used only in the way of decora- 
 tion. As to what caviare is — and it used to be 
 termed Russian caviare as if it had been of Russian 
 invention — the Scientific American gives this infor- 
 mation : 
 
 **FIyde Park, some eighty-three miles up the 
 Hudson River from New York, is one of the prin- 
 cipal fishing stations for sturgeon, whose roe, when 
 properly prepared, is known as caviare, a food 
 preparation greatly enjoyed by our German and 
 French ciizens, not to forget the Russians, to whom 
 
 we export large quantities every year. The roe 
 weighs about one third as much as the fish, A fifty 
 pound roe is considered a large roe. thirty pounds 
 being the average. As soon as the sturgeons reach 
 shore they are opened and the roes taken out. 
 Masses of roe are rubbed through wire selves. The 
 eggs are then salted for a short time, after which 
 they are laid on hair selves to drain oflF. When 
 thoroughly drained what was but a short time ago 
 only halibut spawn, is now the toothsome caviare of 
 which thousands of pounds are annually spread on 
 bread and eaten with much relish." 
 
 Caviare, like every other eatable thing, can now 
 be bought in cans. It is black nearly as truffles. 
 Softened with a little warm butler it can be used 
 with good effect to ornament dishes of fish galads in 
 piping and leaf patterns. In the times when fash- 
 ionable ladies used to decorate their faces with huge 
 patches of fancy patterns stamped out of court 
 plaster, and white and yellow dishes on the table 
 had the same done for them with trrffle slices, it is 
 very likely a similar service was required for fish 
 en mayonaise, of the high-flavored caviare. 
 
 7S8, Salads and Bills of Pare. 
 
 There will be a question, now that we are to de- 
 scribe the more formal dinner salads, as to their 
 proper place ia the bill of fare, and it would be ex- 
 tremely convenient if the bills in use the world over 
 would kindly keep themselves according to a few 
 definite patterns as, say, French, Russian, English 
 and American. In fact, however, among fifty model 
 menus of European court dinners there are scarcely 
 two alike in their arrangement of dishes and head- 
 ings, and the promiscuous bills of fare of American 
 hotels do not vary more in their minor features than 
 those of the palaces of the European nations. The 
 slight differences betwixt salads and the cold 
 hors-d'oeuvre often make it appear as if salads ap- 
 peared in two places on the same bill. The follow- 
 ing examples will, however, show the general usages 
 in this respect. The first menu, chosen for its 
 brevity, contains the intermediate frozen punch 
 which has come to be regarded the distinguishing 
 feature of the thorough French menu, although in 
 the collection before us it appears so rarely as to 
 seem more the exception than the rule. 
 
 FAMILLE ROYALE DE BAVIERE. 
 
 Potage Tortue Potage a la Reine 
 
 Petits Croustades, a la Montglas. 
 
 Seibling a la sauce hoUandaise. 
 
 Jambon a la Rothschild. 
 
 Bceuf braise a la jardiniere. 
 
184 
 
 THE AHEBIOAN COOK. 
 
 Gotelettes d'agneau aux haricots verts. 
 
 Dinde a la Toulouse. 
 
 Grives a la Joinville. 
 
 Pate foie gras a la gelee. 
 
 Punch a la Komainb. 
 
 Faisans et chapons rotis. 
 Salade de Laitues. 
 
 Asperges sauce a la creme. 
 
 Beignets a la Francaise, Marasquin. 
 
 Gelee de paises au champagne. 
 
 Servi a la cour de Munich. 
 
 The general usage in a menu of the above descrip- 
 tion is for the salads to appear with the game. The 
 next, the mrnu of one of President Buchanan's din- 
 ners and evidently a very proper one, does no*, 
 however, mention salad in the usual place. 
 
 PRESIDENCE DES ETATS-UNIS D'AMERIQUE, 
 WASHINGTON. 
 
 Hors d'oeuvre 
 
 Poisson. 
 
 Brieves. 
 
 Entrees. 
 
 Rots. 
 Entremets. 
 
 Potage torlue vert. 
 
 Petits croustades a la Reine. 
 
 Fillets de basse rayee au gratin. 
 
 Langues de veau a la bechamel. 
 Dinde sauvage a la Regence. 
 
 Gotelettes de mouton a la Soubise. 
 
 Boudins de perdreaux a la Richelieu 
 
 Supreme de volaille aux truffles. 
 
 Pain de gibiere a la belle-vue. 
 
 Sorbets a l'Americaine. 
 
 Canvas-back ducko. 
 Faisans bardes au jus 
 
 Petits pois et asperges. 
 
 Charlotte Riisse 
 Macedoine de fruits. 
 Abricots a la conde. 
 
 In the following example sliced cucumbers accom- 
 paoy the fish and heart lettuces the game be^ow. 
 This was for a dinner of 20 covers only. 
 
 MENU. 
 
 Consomme de volaille, aux quenelles, 
 Bouchees au Salpicon. 
 
 Bass rayee, grille, maitre d' hotel 
 
 Selle d'agneau, Regence. 
 
 Salad concombres. 
 Croquettes de pommes. 
 
 Petits Filets de boeuf, saute, aux truffles. 
 Ris de veau, en croustade. 
 
 PouleS a la Dauphine. 
 
 Tomates farcies 
 
 Celeriau jus 
 
 SOBBET. 
 
 Imperiale. 
 
 Petits poig 
 
 Becasses en canap 
 
 es 
 
 Coeur de laitue 
 
 Pouding Diplomatique Blanc mange au marasquin 
 
 Corbeille Florentine nux marrons glaces et deguises 
 
 Forme de fruits Napolitaine Petits fours 
 
 Desseht et Fruits. 
 
 WINDSOR, 
 Saratoga springs, 
 August 26, 1878. 
 
 Another American example of this form of menu 
 for a banquet for 250 persons. 
 
 BANQUET 
 
 COMPLIMENTMIY TO 
 
 GENERAL U. S. GRANT, 
 
 By the Middlesex Club. 
 
 OYSTERS. 
 
 (Haute Sauterne) 
 
 SOUP. 
 
 Puree of Chicken, a la Princesse Imperial Broth 
 
 (Cabinet Sherry) 
 
 PISH. 
 
 Boiled Turbot, a la Cardinal 
 
 Potatoes HoUandaisc 
 
 (Chablis) 
 
 REMOVES. 
 
 Young Turkey, with Celery, a la Creme 
 
 Tenderloin of Beef, Braized, a la Rothschild 
 
 (Pomery Sec. Mumm's Ex. Dry.) 
 
 ENTREES. 
 
 Sweetbreads en Chartreuse, a la Moderne 
 
 Potted Quail, a la Royal Truffles au Champagne 
 
 Vbnbtian Shbrbbt. 
 
 GAME. 
 English Pheasant Canvas-back Duck Woodcock 
 Dressed Celery Cressons Lettuce 
 (La Ro?e, 1868.) 
 VEGETABLES. 
 French Peas Cauliflower Tomatoes Flageolets 
 Champignon'? Epinards Veloutes 
 
 DESSERTS. 
 Meringues Chantilly Jelly au Macedoine 
 Macaroons Eclaires au Chocolate 
 
 Charlotte Parisienne Napolitaine Ices 
 
 Confectionery 
 Bananas 
 Peans 
 
 Fancy Cake 
 Oranges 
 
 (Burgundy) 
 Coffee. 
 * Thb Brunswick, " Boston, 
 Oct. 13, 1880. 
 
 Hamburg Grapes 
 Malaga Grapes 
 Savarin 
 Fruit Ices 
 
 Brandy Figs 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 185 
 
 Just one more bill, parted in the middle, from a 
 land of salads. 
 
 FAMILLE ROYALE D'lTALIE. 
 
 Potage d'orge, al'Ecassaiae 
 
 EeleTes 
 
 Turbot a la Bordelaise 
 Noie de Veau a la Gastronome 
 
 Entrees 
 
 Poulardes aux points d'asperges 
 
 Caillea a la Richelieu 
 
 Aspio a la Dominicaine 
 
 Legumes 
 
 Artichautes a la Barigoule 
 
 Hors d'oeuvre 
 
 Jambon de York, a la Qelee 
 
 
 PWNCH AU KlRtCH 
 
 Rots 
 
 Faisans Peques 
 
 Venaison 
 
 Salades 
 
 Dessert, Etc. 
 
 Examining the following footprints of the depart- 
 ed great we find a lobster salad among the entrees. 
 
 FAMILLE ROYAL DE PRUSSE. 
 
 Diner de 24 converts a Potsdam, oflfert par la cour 
 
 de Prusse a S. M. I'Empereur de Russie. 1867. 
 
 Potages 
 Hors d'oeuvre 
 Poissons 
 Releves 
 
 Entrees 
 
 Rots 
 
 Legumes 
 
 Ekitremets 
 
 Consomme de volaille a la Royal 
 Potage tortue a la Francaise 
 
 Tartelettes de nouilles au foie gras 
 Oannelons a la puree de gibier 
 
 Turbot garni, stuce aux huitres 
 Dame de Saumon, sauce crevettes 
 
 Boeuf fume de Hamburg, legumes va- 
 ries 
 
 Langue de Veau de Pontoise 
 Tomates et cepes Provencale 
 
 Cotelettes de daim aux champignons 
 Filets de poulets aux points d'asper- 
 ges, sauce supreme 
 Homards a la gelee, sauce mayonnaise 
 Galantines decaillesauxtruflfes, sauce 
 Cumberland 
 
 Dindonneaux piques 
 Faisans de Buheme 
 
 Fonds d'artichauts a la moelle 
 Petits pois a la Francaise 
 
 Ponding souffle a la vanille 
 
 Croutes aux cerise:', a ia Montmorency 
 
 Gelee muse -'vi! e garnie d'ananas 
 
 Charlotte printaniere aux fraises 
 
 Glaces — Compotes — Dessert 
 
 At that meeting of the emperors they ought to 
 have had a diplomatic pudding and a crawfish salnd 
 or two, by aU means, for of course one party had to 
 eat craw, if the other did endanger the piece of 
 Europe. 
 
 And we find another salad among the entrees, as 
 well as cress with the rots. 
 
 FAMILLE IMPERIALE DE FRANCE. 
 
 Potages 
 Hors d'oeuvre 
 Grosses Pieces 
 
 Entrees 
 
 Rots 
 Entremets 
 
 Pot-au-feu Pates d'ltalie 
 
 Petits Pates au natural 
 
 Saumon a la sauce Gerevoise 
 
 Pieces de Boeuf a la Jardiniere 
 
 Rossif garni de croquettes 
 
 Tete de veau en tortue 
 Petites timbales a la Lavalliere 
 Grenadins a la chicoree 
 Supreme de volaille aux points d'as- 
 perges 
 
 Chaupoix de foie gras 
 Salade de filets de eoles, a la ravigotte 
 
 Faisans et chapons au cresson 
 
 Artichauts frits 
 
 Choux-fleurs, sauce au beurre 
 
 Haricots verts sautes 
 
 Epinards au veloute 
 
 Cbailotte russe au chocolat 
 
 Timbale de poires a I'ltalienne 
 
 Gelee m^cedoine de fruits 
 
 Pains la Mecque 
 
 Dessert. 
 
 Diner servi a la cour de France 
 en 1860. 
 
186 
 
 THE AMEBICAN OOOK. 
 
 S&lads appear but rarely in the English royal 
 dinner menus. The annexed has one classed with 
 the entremets, as if in an American hotel bill we 
 ■hould place lobster salad among the vegetables. 
 
 FAMILLE ROYALE D'ANGLETERRE. 
 
 Potages 
 
 Poissons 
 
 Releves 
 
 Entrees 
 
 Rots 
 
 Releves 
 
 Entremets 
 
 Side table 
 
 Puree de vohille, a la Reine. 
 Consomme aux Pates. 
 
 Traoches de cabillaud 
 Eperlaus pits 
 
 Cuissot de [chevreuil, sauce poivrade 
 Poulardes et langues, aux chaux- 
 fleurs 
 
 Troncons de anguilles, a la Perigord 
 Rissolettes de volaille, a la Pompa- 
 dour 
 Saute de filets de Perdreaux 
 Noix de veau, a la chicoree 
 
 Grouses aujus 
 Poulardes, bread sauce 
 
 Pudding de cabinet 
 Gaufres a la Flamande 
 
 Celeri a TEapagnole 
 
 Salade de homards 
 
 Flan de Pommes Meringuees 
 
 Biscottes glacees 
 
 Roast beef 
 Roast Mutton 
 
 Thirteen cooks of note^took part in the prepara- 
 tion of the above dinner; their names are all duly 
 appended, with the date 1858. 
 
 It would be a relief to anyone after scanning three 
 score and ten such menus as the foregoing and find- 
 ing the salads wandering up and down in the bills 
 and going to and fro in the midst of them, to be able 
 to give them a local habitation and a place all their 
 own, as happily we do in our American hotel bill 
 of fare, the form that is unborrowed, that contains 
 some features of all the precediog specimens, yet is 
 different from all, and more suitable to the habits 
 and customs of the people. Some of the most re 
 nowned hotels of the United States use the exact 
 form following, and a very large number beside 
 only make the one or two changes of placing ttie list 
 of boiled meats above instead of beside the roasts, 
 and substituting the line "cold dishes and salads" 
 for mayonaise, dispensing with the cold meats head. 
 ing altogether. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 LITTLB KECK CLAMS. 
 SOUP. 
 
 Terrapin Printaniere 
 
 FISH. 
 
 Boiled Kennebec Salmon, lobster sauce 
 
 Potatoes Hollandaise 
 BOILED. ROAST. 
 
 Turkey, parsley sauce Ribs of Beef 
 
 Corned beef, with new cabbage Turkey, etuflfed 
 Leg of mutton, caper sauce Spring lamb, mint Sauce 
 Beins, with pork 
 COLD MEATS. 
 Boned turkey Pate de foie gras 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Fillet of beef, larded, with mushrooms 
 Wild pigeon, en compote 
 
 Spring lamb chops, with green peas 
 
 Orange fritters, maraschino Flavor 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 
 New potatoes Tomatoes Green peas 
 
 Cauliflower Cream spinach Asparagus 
 
 Macaroni, Napolitaine 
 
 MAYONNAISE. 
 
 Chicken Lobster 
 
 Lettuce 
 
 SWEETS AND DESSERT. 
 
 Plum pudding, brandy sauce 
 
 Rhubarb pie Peach pie 
 
 Catawba jelly Biscuit glace 
 
 Fancy cakes, etc. 
 
 Vanilla ice cream Roman punch 
 
 Strawberries, with cream 
 
 Fruits, nuts, crackers and cheese 
 
 Coffee 
 
 CoNTiNBNTAL HoTBL, Philadelphia, 
 
 May 9, 1880. 
 
 The next example of the American hotel bill of 
 fare is patterned after the menus of a very elegant 
 New York City hotel. It shows where the salads 
 may be found always, without necessitating search 
 through hors-d'oeuvres entrees and entremets. 
 
 DINNER. 
 
 SOUP. 
 Puree of chicken, a la Pnncesse 
 
 Consomme Desclignao 
 
 PISH. 
 
 Boiled Turbot, a la Cardinal 
 
 Potatoes HoUandaise. 
 
 BOILED. 
 Turkey, oys*er sauce 
 
 Tongue, c<iper siuce 
 Ham 
 
 ROAST. 
 Ribs of beef au jus 
 Lamb, Venetian sauce 
 Wild duck, app'e sauce 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 187 
 
 ENTREES. 
 Sweetbreads en Chartreuse 
 
 Potted Quail, a la Royale 
 
 Macaroni and Cheese, Sicilienne 
 
 COLD DISHES AND SALADS. 
 
 Chicken Salad Lobster in Shell Sliced Tomatoes 
 
 Smoked Tongue Boned Turkey en Aspic 
 
 VEGETABLES. 
 Potatoes boiled, mashed, browned 
 
 Corn Tomatoes 
 
 Green Peas 
 
 Grape Pie 
 
 SWEETS AND DESSERT. 
 
 Lemon Meringue Pie 
 Cibinet Pudding 
 Neapolitan Ice Cream Blanc Mange au Maraequin 
 Assorted Cakes Fruits Nuts 
 
 COFrBB. 
 
 Salads and Cold Dishes from Foreign 
 Menus. 
 
 The following will be found suggestive not only of 
 new or nearly forgotten dishes to malse in this de- 
 partment, but of different names or ways of writing 
 the same thing. 
 
 Buisson de petits homards. 
 
 Mayonaise de homards. 
 
 A pic de langoustes. 
 
 Aspic de homards. 
 
 Homards en coquilles. 
 
 Homards en belle vue. 
 
 Mayonaise de langoustes en bordure. 
 
 Salade de homards en coquille. 
 
 Lobster salad with plover's eggs. 
 
 Lobster au gratin. (in one royal menu stands in 
 the salrid's place with the rots.) 
 
 Salade de ques d'ecrivisses (crayfish tails.) 
 
 Salade d'ecrivisses, a la gelee. 
 
 Crayfish, plain. 
 
 Buisson d'ecrivisses 
 
 Groups of large crayfish. 
 
 Aspic of plovers eggs and prawns. 
 
 Buisson of prawns sur socle. 
 
 Aspic de crevettes (shrimpp.) 
 
 Salade de filets de soles, a la Parisienne. 
 
 Salade de eaumon, a la Russe. 
 
 Salade Russe au thon (tunny.) 
 
 Fillets de saumon a la mayonaise. 
 
 Mayonaise de fillets de soles. 
 
 Dame of salmon with Montpellier butter. 
 
 Salad of file's of fowls a la belle- vue. 
 Mayonaise of chicken. 
 Sliced galantine with jelly. 
 Salade de volaille. 
 
 Poulets grss, a la gelee, sauce remoulade. 
 Galantine de volaille, a la gelee. 
 
 Italian salads in decorated aspic borders. 
 
 Salade de legumes garnie de saumon fume (with 
 
 smoked salmon.) 
 Salade a la Russe. 
 German salad. 
 Salsify en mayonaise. 
 Salade de legumes, a Tltalienne. 
 Salade de laitues. 
 Haricots verts en salade. 
 Potato chips (once in salads place.) 
 Choucroute aux huitres. 
 Salade Italienne en belle-vue. 
 Salade de chicoree. 
 
 The last named salad is found in the menu of a 
 German duke's grand dinner. "In Holland and 
 Belgium, white chicory is sold at a cheap rate early 
 in the spring, and supplies a grateful salad long be- 
 fore lettuces are to be had." Endive and succory 
 are other names for chicory. 
 
 The definite object in view in bringing in the 
 foregoing perhaps somewhat formidable looking 
 mass of French is to discover what the best Euro- 
 pean bill of fare composers and cooks do when they 
 do their highest endeavors for the greatest occasions 
 that can arise in their particular world, and not at 
 all to lead any callow geese on this side to copy and 
 use the imposing words they do not understand. 
 We must have a standard to judge American hotel 
 work by, and as far as names and words can go to 
 give an idea, these imperial menus and the salad 
 dishes culled from many others mark the topmost 
 notch. There are some American hotels, their 
 menu writers, caterers and cooks, who would not 
 consent to be ranked below the European in any- 
 thing, even in salads. However, there can be no 
 dispute, for after we have learned what they make 
 there remains the greater question of perfection of 
 work, skill, readiness, dexterity, and good taste, 
 and that will always remain open. Salads made 
 only to look at are out of place in a hotel. Orna- 
 mentation that consumes hours of time is impracti- 
 cable where a new banquet comes on every day. In- 
 stead of one great dish of salad we have a hundred 
 or two little dishes. Every person at table if he 
 chooses has a complete dish to himself. Whatever 
 fixing up is to be done must be done quickly or it 
 will not be done at all. 
 
 A great check might be put upon the vulgar use 
 of spurious French in bills of fare if guests and em- 
 ployers were to grow inquisitive and quizzical, de- 
 manding to know what each word means, of who- 
 ever wrote it. There's a nice new game for winter 
 time. 
 
188 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 729. Dressed Crab. 
 
 Pick the meat from Ihe shell and claws, cut the 
 solid parts into small pieces, dry the soft part with 
 the addition of a spoonful of fine bread crumbs, mix 
 all with a little oil, vinegar and mu^^tard. Wash 
 and dry the shells and serve the meat in thfm 
 placed on a bed uf something green — lettuce, cress, 
 young celery plants or parsley. 
 
 729 a. Potato Salad Plain. 
 
 1 pint bowl of cooked and sliced potatoes. 
 1 small onion, sl'ce J or chopped. 
 J cupful of vinegar. Parsley, salt, pepper. 
 1 tablespoonful of salad oil, or of fried bacon fat. 
 Mix all together by pouring from one bowl to an- 
 other and shaking up. 
 
 Hotel Dinner Salads. 
 
 "Insipid? Gastronomic heresy ! There is nothing 
 better than the potato. I eat them done in all the 
 diflFerent ways, and should they appear in the 
 second course, whether a la lyonaise or au souffle, I 
 hereby enter a protest for the preservation of my 
 rights." — Savarin. (Mem. To send them in also en 
 salade.) 
 
 A thorough first class cook of a first class hotel 
 would not like to send to the dinner table the in- 
 formal salads of the preceding part, which, however, 
 do very well for ordinary supper and lunch, besides 
 serving as examples for the employment of the half 
 dozen salad dressings already described. 
 
 730. Parisian Potato Salad. 
 
 POMMES PABISIENNE EN MAYONAISE. 
 
 Parisian potatoes are so called when scooped out 
 of large potatoes with a scoop which forms them in 
 balls of the size and appearance of white cherries, or 
 a little larger or smaller, for the scoops are sold of 
 different sizes. 
 
 1. Make the mayonaise sauce in the quick way 
 with bowl and egg-beater, directed in the beginiung 
 of this book, and add a tablespoonful of made mus- 
 tard and a very little cayenne. 
 
 Scoop out about two quarts of Parisienne potatoes, 
 set them on to boil in cold mik and water with a 
 little salt in it, and take them off when just done, 
 before they break out of shape. Drain in a colander 
 and set away to get cold. 
 
 Also scoop out about a cupful of cooked blood 
 beets, to match ihe potatoes, and cover the beet balls 
 with vinegar. 
 
 Just before dinner set out from 15 to 25 small flat 
 dishes (for the probable orders of 50 persons with a 
 varied bill to choose from). Place a spoonful of 
 mayonaise in a pan or bowl and shake the potatoes ] 
 
 about in it to co'^i them. Pile 8 or 9 in each dish, 
 draw a spoonful of m-yonaise over so as to mask 
 them, and finish by placing with two forks 3 or 4 of 
 the beet balls around for ornament. 
 
 2. Large dishes can be put up in the same gen- 
 eral way, the beets may then be placed in a row or 
 two diagonally across the top, as well, and some 
 parsley added, giving the effect of a wreath of ber- 
 
 3. It is worth while to know that when the po- 
 tatoes are of a mealy sort that break in the water 
 they are better simmered till done in frei-h butter, 
 first melted and poured off the salt sediment, but 
 not made fryi -g hot. The potatoes are not to be 
 allowed to become in the least brown, nor even to 
 have a hard skin fried on them; only gently stewed 
 in butter. The butter can afterwards be used for 
 frying, etc. 
 
 4. Instead of repeating, the next time use the 
 allemande salad dressing, which, if made with ua- 
 colored butter, is pearl white, and ornameiit with 
 parsley, and a few capers on top, or pickled nastur- 
 tium seeds or pods, or some pickled red cabbage 
 chopped and drained from its vinegar, the beets in 
 this case being left out. 
 
 T31. Beet and Potato Salad. 
 
 Cut some cooked blood beets with ycur sabalier 
 scollop knife into cubes or dice shapes with flu'.ed 
 sides, and keep the cut shapes in vinegar. 
 
 Prepare some Parisienne potatoes — there thould 
 be about a quart of each— and the allemande salad 
 dressing. Pile a few of the beet shapes in the mid- 
 dle of the dishes, place the potatoes aroucd es a 
 border, and with a tablespoon pour the sauce ever 
 the potatoes, leaving the beets of their natural color. 
 Ornament with a hasty sprig of parsley to each 
 dish. 
 
 "Characterless people who are like sa'sify that is 
 always just going to taste like an oyster and never 
 does." — Talmage. 
 
 ("Was ofien thought but ne'er so well expressed." 
 Mem. To give salsify a chance in allemande dress- 
 
 T33. 
 
 Salsify Salad. 
 
 SALSIFIS EN MAYONAISE. 
 
 Wash the salsify roo's and shave off the outsid?, 
 throw them in cold water with salt in it and set 
 them on to boil. Try with a fork to know when 
 done. Salsify requires an hour or more to cook. 
 After draining from the hot water put it immediae- 
 ly in a pan of cold to keep it of good color. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 189 
 
 1. Cut (he Falsify across in round lozenge shapes 
 as nearly rf one size as prsssible. Put it in a bowl 
 and pour over it the allemaudo salad dressing with 
 a little Chili vinegar mixed in. 
 
 Salsify is best in the spring of the year, aficr it 
 has ha I the winter frosts, and garden cress can then 
 be had for garnish. Make a border of cress on the 
 small flat dish or saucer and p!ace a spoonful of the 
 8 ilsify and its dressing in the middle. 
 
 2. Cut the salsify i i lengths of about 2 inches, 
 not using the largest roots for this purpose. Place 
 3 or 4 cf the pieces on each dish, diagonally across 
 the dish, and pour over the pile a spoonful of thick 
 mayonaise. It is better if the pieces of salsify can 
 steep in oil and vinegar, enough to moisten them, 
 awhile before dinner. 
 
 The cream hollandaise, or the other dressings, can 
 of course be used instead of the two preceding, and 
 salsify does well to mix in salads with other vegeta- 
 bles. 
 
 The mak'ng of the allemande dressin is not so 
 simple but that it may be easily spoiled if the oil 
 and cream be added too hastily. Probably a half 
 cup more cf cream will be needed than the re- 
 ceipt calls for, and it should not be ice cold nor 
 added faster than a spoonful at a time. This 
 dressing is valuable for needing no eggs and but 
 little oil, and is suitable for all sorts of vegetables. 
 
 "We Florentines mostly use names as wo do 
 prawns, and strip them of all flourishes before we 
 trust them to our throats." — Romola. 
 
 The prawn is a larger kind of shrimp and for 
 the cook's purposes is the same thing. It has 
 longer horns, feelers or flourishes than the shrimp, 
 which causes it to be preftrred for a buisson; it is of 
 lighter color when coaked, and in the markets 
 usually sells for a lower price than the shrimp. 
 
 T33. 
 
 Shrimp Salad. 
 
 MAYONAISE OF SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS, OR SHRIMPS 
 (CREVETTES) EN MAYONAlSE. 
 
 1 Prepare about a quart of shrimps divested cf 
 their coat of maii, fails, heads and flourishes, and 
 place them in a bowl. 
 
 Make the thin mayonaise or salad cream and pour 
 it over the shrimps. 
 
 Take some heads of lettuce from the pan of ice- 
 water in which they have lain, shake them free 
 from wafer and shred them as fine as possible with 
 a sharp knife, on a clean board kept for the pur- 
 pose. About enough to fill a 2 quart pan will do. 
 
 Place a li-.tle pile of the lettuce in the email, deep 
 dish, ice cream saucer or deep glass plate; mnke a 
 hollow in the middle, forming a border of lettuce, 
 
 and in the hollow place a gooi spoonful of the 
 shrimps and dressing. Dish up these only as reed- 
 ed, for the lettuce soon dries and loses its color. 
 
 2. Make the thick mayonaise, or el^e use that 
 termed American Falad dressing, made of about the 
 same consis ence. 
 
 Prepare the shrimps, put them in a bowl, pour in 
 a basting-spoonful of vinegar, two of oil, a little 
 white pepper, and shake about, making the shrimps 
 look moist and shining. 
 
 Prepare small white hearts of letfuce, one f r 
 each individual dish, pull them apart and lay the 
 leaves slantwise, wreath fashion, around the dish. 
 Place a neat spoonful of the seasoned shrimps in the 
 center and over them pour or spread a spoonful of 
 the mayonaise. 
 
 3. For a large dish like the preceding fill the 
 shrimps, after seasoning with oil and vinegar, into 
 a melon mould (a mould in shape of half a melon), 
 and slighly press to give them the shape. Turn 
 them out onto a flat dish already prepared with 
 leaves of heart lettuce. Pour the mayonaise over 
 the shrimps and decorate with eggs, olives, parsley, 
 cut shapes of beets, flowers, etc. 
 
 4. Having seasoned ths shrimps shape them for 
 individual dishes by pressing a spoonful into a cus- 
 tard cup, or egg cup or similar mould. 
 
 Prepare about a quart of celery by chopping it 
 fine and seasoning in like manner as the shrimps, 
 with oil, vinegar and white pepper, adding a little 
 salt also. 
 
 Turn the shrimps on to their dish and place 
 a,round a border of the celery with a teaspoon. 
 Finish with a spoonful of mayonaise on top of the 
 shrimps. Or the mayonaise may be dispensed with, 
 or, leave the shrimps without a dressing, and pour 
 the allemande dressing from a spoon over the celery 
 border. 
 
 6. Place a neat spoonful of shrimps — either sea- 
 soned or not, as the time may allow — on the small 
 flat dish, and over the top spread a spoonful of may- 
 onaise. Throw 3 or 4 capers iu the center, p'ace 2 
 or 3 quarters of h ird-boiled egg around, or 3 or 4 
 olives, like the beet balls on the potato salad, or uee 
 both, and any other ornament such as cress or 
 parsley that may be at hand. 
 
 6. Reverse the order of any of the foregoing, 
 when the shrimps ere of good shape, and hand- 
 somely coiled, by making a pile of shred lettuce or 
 chopped celery in the middle and placing the 
 shrimps feround a^^d upon it. A very pretty mix- 
 ture may be made of shrimps in cress, or water 
 cress, without any other dressing. 
 
190 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 And now we cannot well go further without some 
 aspic jelly, and will proceed to make it. 
 
 "What a perfect family!" exclaimed Hugo, as he 
 extracted a couple of fat little birds from their bed 
 of aspic jelly. "Everything they do in such perfect 
 taste. How safe you were here to have ortolans for 
 supper! ' ' — Lothair, 
 
 "Garnished with cut carrots, like a made dish in 
 Bloomsbury Square." — Pelham. 
 
 "The dinner was a banquet — a choice boquet be- 
 fore every guest, turtle and venison and piles of 
 whitebait, and pineapples of prodigious size, and 
 bunches of grapes that had gained prizes. The 
 champagne seemed to flow in fountains, and was 
 only interrupted that the guest might quaff Bur- 
 gundy or taste Tokay. But what was more de- 
 lightfr.l than all was the enjoyment of all present, 
 and especially of their host. That is a rare sight- 
 Banquets are not rare, nor choice guests, nor gra- 
 cious hosts: but when do we ever see a person enjoy 
 anything?' ' — Endymion. 
 
 "Pantagruel did not like this pack of rascally 
 scoundrels, with their manifold kitchen sacrifices, 
 and would have been gone had not Epistemon pre- 
 vailed with him to stay and see the end of the farce. 
 He then asked the skipper what these gastrolatous 
 hobgoblins used to sacrifice to their god Gaster on 
 interlarded fish days? 'For his first course,* said 
 the skipper, 'they give him caviare, potages, then 
 salads a hundred varieties, of cresses, sodden hop- 
 tops, spinage, celery, sives, rampions, mushrooms, 
 asparagus, woodbind, red herrings, pilchards, an- 
 chovies, fry of tunny, pickled eels, cauliflowers, 
 beans, salt salmon, prawn?, crayfish, and a world 
 of others.*" — French Classic. 
 
 Everybody had an appetite fordinner to-day, and 
 the dinner was worthy of the appetites. Zenobia's 
 husband declared to himself that he never dined so 
 well, though he gave his cAc/£500 a year." — Endy- 
 
 " *And now you think of remaining here?' said 
 Mr. Wilton. 
 
 'No,' said the lady, 'that I can ^ ot do. I lo^e 
 everything in this country except its climate, and, 
 perhaps, its hotels.*" — Endymion. 
 
 "'The odd thing is,' said St. Aldegonde, 'you 
 never can get anything to eat in these houses. Their 
 infernal cooks spoil everything * " — Lothair, 
 
 " 'No,' said Harold, 'the question is, whether the 
 English climate will agree with me. It's deuced 
 shifting and damp; and as for the food, it would be 
 
 the finest thing in the world for this country if the 
 Southern cooks would change their religion, g^t 
 persecuted, and fly to England, as the old silk- 
 weavers did.' 'There are plenty of foreign cooks 
 for those who are rich enough to pay for them, I 
 suppose,' said Mrs. Transome, 'but thf y are un- 
 pleasant people to have about one's house ' " — Felix 
 Bolt, 
 
 " 'The blonde misses of Aibion see nothing in the 
 dull inhabitants of their brumous isle, which can 
 compare with the ardor and vivacity of the children 
 of the South. We bring our sunshine with us. My 
 genius would use itself in the company of these 
 rustics — the poesy of my art can not be understood 
 by these carnivorous insularies.' " — Monsitur le chef 
 Mirobolant. — Pendennis, 
 
 "Then Answered Dingdong: 'I bring these sheep 
 out of a country where the very hog?, God be with 
 us, live on nothing but myrobolaus.' " — French 
 Classic. 
 
 ' And so, with a nod, he walked ofi" to the cook's 
 shop at the corner of the Vicolo San Nicolo, and 
 bought him half a loaf of black bread and a plate 
 of beans and oil, upon which frugal fare, washed 
 down with another draught from the green pitcher, 
 he presently made his solitary meal. His rage was 
 over now." — Lord Brackenbury, 
 
 Perhaps a little familiarizing' talk about aspic jelly 
 will do more good than the bald receipt for making 
 it alone. For, paradoxically enough, aspic jelly is 
 the one unnecessary article that we cannot possibly 
 do without in the kitchen, not in the kitchen of a 
 house that aims to be above the garnish of cut car- 
 rots style of Bloomsbury Square. Aspic jelly is one 
 of the barriers, greater a good deal than mayonaise, 
 which shut ofi" the European style, or, more strictly 
 speaking, French cookery from the popular appre- 
 ciation and adoption. You have opened a hotel. 
 You are going to be first class. Oh, yes. You get a 
 foreign cook, but instead of the decided improve- 
 ment in the get-up of common articles which you 
 looked for, unless he be a very reasonable man and 
 quick to perceive your wishes you will find him, 
 most likely, engaged in the preparation of some un- 
 intelligible nonsensicalit'es that were not included 
 in your plans at all. He thinks you must have your 
 dishes garnished, ornamented, and he is not the 
 one to give you a garnish of cut carrots or turnips. 
 He will place around your dishes "bold croutons of 
 aspic jelly," as his celebrated masters direct. To 
 get this he will bother you considerably, ordering 
 calves' feet, chickens, pigs' feet, gravy beef, veal 
 shanks, gelatine, lemons, eggs, flavorings etc. As 
 you are not intending to have calves' feet, etc., on 
 the table, perhaps you can't see the use of all these 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 191 
 
 things and will forget them for a few days, to the 
 great distress of the cook. And when they do come 
 the zealous fellow who means to set your house on 
 the very top pinnacle of first classness may be seen 
 working at night after all others are in bed doing 
 what seems foolishness — but he is carrying on his 
 art. And after that supply is exhausted and a new 
 lot of materials called for you may witk ■»n effort 
 remember that there was on the table a dish of cold 
 birds in a bed of jelly, whicn one or two out of fifcy 
 persons — a Lothair, or some such stranger — saw and 
 admired. Yon will remember the shapes or the 
 border Ox chopped jelly around the dishes that 
 sparkled with it as if set in jewelry, and a boned 
 turkey entirely coated with transparent jelly, of 
 which somebody sitting near said, "How pretty," 
 and "Is it good to eat?" And then perhaps you 
 have to think over the unsatisfactory condition of 
 the roasts and the mashed potatoes and conclude 
 that French cookery is one of the things that no 
 fellow can understand, while the cook, discouraged, 
 may be repeating some of the words of Monsieur 
 Alcibiades Mirobolant above quoted. There is a 
 want of mutual understanding in these matters. 
 The foreign cook knowing that these extra accom- 
 p'ishments are what make him different from the 
 home-bread article is apt to magnify their import- 
 ance out of all reason, and not being used to count 
 the cost of labor and material, is almost sure to take 
 the longest way round about to reach the desired 
 end. Hotel-keepers want French cooks with 
 American ways, and American cooks with French 
 knowledge. It is French to know how to make and 
 how to use aspic jelly. For that reason we cannot 
 quite do without making it once a week, and this 
 regardless of whether people call for it or not. It 
 is well known that it is not necessary to existence. 
 Doctor Tanner quite receitly lived forty days and 
 forty nights without once tasting aspic jelly; but it 
 is a matter of fashion. It has been seen that aspic 
 is mentioned often in the loftiest menus, and the 
 initiated are cognizant of aspic in many dishes be- 
 sides where it is not mentioned by name. Because 
 the leaders on the other side choose, followers on 
 this side must. The most delicate flattery of their 
 table hotel-keepers ever receive, and generally the 
 most highly appreciated, is when distinguished 
 parties look on admiringly and say, "You employ 
 French cooks, don't you?" — though perhaps Pompey 
 and Dina "done been done it all themselves." 
 However, distinguished parties never say that when 
 the French in the bill of fare is Choctaw. Meat 
 jelly in the rough is no foreigner, however, but is 
 native everywhere. The English name is savory 
 jelly, aspic is the same refined. This ought to be 
 better understood, that the first consideration should 
 be to make and keep the jelly savory, so that the 
 meat it goes with is improved by ir — the jelly com- 
 bining several fine flavors and the essence of choice 
 
 game, may be even more delicious and more sought 
 after by epicures than the meat itself. That is where 
 skill and refinement in cookery come in. The great 
 raised cold pork and venison pies or pastys, the 
 brawn and the boars head on the oaken tables of 
 Cedric and Athelstane, the Saxon earles of Ivanhoe, 
 were filled and set and solid with aspic jelly in the 
 rough. It was the gravy set with its own richness, 
 but dark gray and looked as if it wanted straining 
 But the earls were invited by the French Prince 
 John and his nobles to a feast, and there was a fine 
 bird pie, cold, of which the gravy had been clarified. 
 The birds were so rare and costly as to be almost 
 priceless, and betwixt them the aspic jelly had been 
 poured and looked like amber. And even Athelstane 
 appreciated the merits of that pie filled with delicate 
 aspic, for after he had gobbled the whole business 
 he wiped his mouth and asked what that thing was 
 that was so good. Now, we don't want to say that 
 aspic jelly, taking it all round, is better than rich 
 gravy, but It certainly is far more ornamental, and 
 while you are making it to serve with fat little reed 
 birds or rice birds because it is ornamental, take 
 cat e it does not get dosed with unsuitable herbs and 
 vegetables, and then stick and burn on the bottom, 
 and taste worse than scorched beans. The cook and 
 confectioner can take the jelly from the pigs-feet keg 
 and bring it back looking as clear as glass, and 
 when broken it will shine "like dew on the gowan 
 lying," but the demands of refined cookery will not 
 be satisfied unless it taste as good as it looks. 
 
 Y34. 
 
 Sometimes there is a remainder of a good looking 
 amber clear soup left over that sets in jelly when 
 cold, and you say involuntarily to yourself, "how 
 rich that was, and what a pity to throw it away." 
 Perhaps it need not be. It will make savory jelly 
 for something— for pressed corned beef and the like. 
 But when there is a surplus of the broth that fowls 
 and turkeys have been boiled in you have as good a 
 material for aspic as can be made. Understanding 
 this and a little rule or two, the terrors of jelly- 
 making and the dark mysteries of galantines and 
 aspic salads will disappear. 
 
 One and a half ounces of gelatine to a quart of 
 water will make jelly, or 
 
 One ounce of gelatine to a quart of good broth, and 
 less still, the stronger the broth may be. 
 
 One calf's foot boiled in 3 quarts of water will 
 make a quart of jelly without any ge'atine. A pig's 
 foot and shank does the same. Fowls either old or 
 young boiled tender in the liquor are necessary for 
 good quality. Veal and veal shanks and coarse 
 beef are also used, but will not do very well alone. 
 
 "Supper time approaching, Don Quixote retired 
 to bis apartment, and Sancho inquired of the host 
 what they could have to eat. The landlord told 
 him his paiate should be suited— for whatever thf 
 
193 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 air, earth and sea produced, of birds, beast or fish, 
 that inn was abundantly provided with. 'There is 
 no need of all that,' quoth Sancho; 'roast us but a 
 couple of chickens, and we shall be satisfied; for my 
 master hath a delicate stomach, and I am no glut- 
 ton/ 
 
 " *As for chickens,* said^the mnkeeper, 'truly we 
 have none, for the kites have devoured them/ 
 'Then let a pullet be roasted,' said Sancho; 'only see 
 that it be tender.' 'A pullet? my father!' answered 
 the host; faith and troth, I sent about fifty yester- 
 day to the city to be sold; but excepting pullets, ask 
 for what you will.' 'Why, then,' quoth Sancho, 
 'e'en give us a good joint of veal or kid, for they 
 cannot be wanting.' 'Veal or kid?' replied the host, 
 *ah, now I remember we have none in the house at 
 present, for it is all eaten; but next week there will 
 be enough and to spare.' 'We are much the better 
 for that,' answered Sancho; 'but I dare say all 
 these deficiencies will be made up with plenty of 
 eggs and bacon.* ' 'Fore heaven,* answered the 
 host, 'my customer is a choice guesser! I told him 
 I had neither pullets nor hens, and he expects me 
 to have eggsl Talk of other delicacies, but ask no 
 more for hens.' 'Bodyofmel" quoth Sancho, 'let 
 us come to something — tell me in short what you 
 have, Master Host, and let us have done with your 
 flourishes.' 'Then,* quoth the inkeeper, 'what I 
 really and truly have is a pair of cow-heels, that 
 m^y be taken for calves' feet; or a pair of calves' 
 /eet that are like cow-heels. They are stewed with 
 peas, onions and bacon, and at this very moment 
 are crying out, 'come eat mel come eat mel' 'From 
 this moment I mark them as my own,' quoth 
 Sancho; 'let nobody lay a finger on them. I will 
 pay you well, for there is nothing like them — give 
 me but cow-heel, and I care not a fig for calves' 
 feet.' "—Don Quixote. 
 
 735. 
 
 Aspic Jelly. 
 
 To make savory jelly, take 
 
 12 pounds of meat and feet. ' 
 
 12 quarts of water. 
 
 12 hours to boil them gently. 
 
 12 cloves. 
 
 1 bay leaf. 
 
 1 small turnip. 
 
 1 small onion. 
 
 1 carrot. 
 
 1 rounded tablespoonful of pepper. 
 
 1 do do salt. 
 
 3 to 6 lemons, juice only. 
 
 6 eggs to clarify the jelly. 
 As has been already intimated it makes but little 
 difference in ordinary life what kind of meat is used. 
 For choice we will say 2 calves' feet, 2 pigs' feet 
 with the shanks attached, 2 old fowls and some veal 
 bones or shin of beef. Chop and break the pieces. 
 
 Put them on in a boiler having a false bottom to 
 prevent burning, or, otherwise, put a pie plate in 
 before the meat. Fill with cold water. Bring to a 
 boil and skim off what rises to the top. Then push 
 the boiler to the back part of the range, and let sim- 
 mer gently about 12 hours. It should by that time 
 be reduced to about a third of the quantity of water 
 first put in and will setin jelly when cold. But 
 during the time of cooking the vegetables and salt 
 and pepper should have been added. White pepper 
 is best, whole black pepper, broken a little, is next, 
 and if you have not these ground black pepper will 
 do. 
 
 Strain off your 4 quarts of jelly and fat, from the 
 meat and bones, and set it away to get quite cold. 
 Then take off the grease from the top, and wipe off 
 the last particles with a cloth dipped in warm water. 
 Now melt the jelly in a good sized kettle or br'ght 
 tin pan. Squeeze in some lemon juice— enough to 
 give it a tart taste. Of the six eggs take 2 entire, 
 4 whites, and all the shells, and a cup cf cold water, 
 beat them up, add them to the melted jelly and beat 
 up to mix. Then boil — about half an hour will be 
 right. 
 
 One reason of trouble in making jelly is the white 
 of egg does not get cooked enough, but runs like 
 milk through the jelly bag and makes the jelly 
 cloudy when it should be clear. If it boils over too 
 much set the kettle and all in the oven till the white 
 of egg has become a gray curd; then k will strain 
 clear. 
 
 Another trouble is when you try to do without 
 lemons the jelly very often is gummy and will not 
 run through flannel, nor hardly through a seive. 
 An acid cuts it and makes it limped. If you must 
 use vinegar instead of lemon juice, you must. It 
 will have the same effect — to make the jelly run 
 through. 
 
 The jelly bag is made of red flannel — about a yard 
 — a wire ring to hold the top open — the bag running 
 down to a point, funnel shaped. Suspend it by 
 strings like the bail of a bucket. 
 
 The clarifying process above may of course be 
 applied to any soup stock or gelatine liquor, and 
 applies with more force to sweetened jellies, 
 which are harder to make than aspic. 
 
 The aspic may be cooled on dishes, of right 
 depth to stamp out fancy shapes when cold. The 
 color will likely be light straw color. A few drops 
 of burnt sugar caramel will make it amber and a 
 few more brandy or ale color. A few drops of 
 red coloring will make pink of the clear and port 
 wine color of the brown. ' 
 
 The other way will come more familiarly home 
 to hotel cooks where the stock boiler is the al- 
 ways ready resource. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 193 
 
 •736. Aspic Jelly.— Hotel Method. 
 
 Draw elf 4 quarts of clear soup stock from the 
 stock boili r. It has already been lightly eeasoned 
 with the common vegetables, and for this use should 
 have a head cf celery and a handful of parsley ex- 
 tra. Ctiop about 2 pounds of lean beef fine like 
 sausage. Mix a pint of cold water with it, then 
 put the beef in the 4 quarts of stock and boil it a 
 short lime. Strain this consomme from the beef 
 through a fine gravy strainer, and set it in the 
 refrigerator that the grease may be all taken ofi* 
 when cold. 
 
 Then add to it the whiles and shells of 6 eggs, 
 juice of 4 lemons, 1 bay leaf, a tablespoonful of 
 bruised pepper corns, or some white pepper, <he 
 same of salt, a ladleful of cold water beaten in the 
 eggs, and 4 ounces of the cheap, white gelatine, 
 that floats while dissolving and can't burn. Bring 
 the mixture to a boil, with frequent stirring. 
 When done pour it 3 or 4 times through the jelly 
 
 Now we have a pail of savory jelly in the ice 
 chest always ready, and can go along with the salad- 
 
 makicg. 
 
 73 T. Shrimps in Aspic 
 
 ASPIC OF SHBIMPS OB PRAWNS. 
 
 Good aspic or savory jelly is a really pleasant con- 
 diment with fchrimps and the like as well as very 
 preity ornament, but someone rem^^rks in a common- 
 sense way that it ought to i« fish jelly instead of 
 meat jelly. 
 
 1. Pick a quart of shrimps and keep the largest 
 and shapliest for this purpose, laying aside the 
 broken pieces for fish sauce, etc. Shake up the 
 shrimps in oil and vinegar enough to make them 
 shine. 
 
 Chop some bright amber-colored jelly. Slice ex- 
 tremely fine, or chop — only just before it is to be 
 used — some green lettuce, cress and mustard, or 
 celery with half green tops, as may be convenient, 
 and season with oil, vinegar and salt. 
 
 Put a spoonful of the green salad in each small 
 dish and form a border with it. In the middle 
 place a spoonful of the chopped jelly well spread 
 out, and on that, well in the center, not to hide the 
 border of jelly, place a spoonful cf shrimps. Take 
 up a little more of the chopped jelly on a silver fork 
 and striking dredge it all over the dish. 
 
 2. Melt some jelly and add to it a flavoring of 
 pepper sauce. Half ^rd sauce (poured ofiF clear wih- 
 out dregs) and one drop of red coloring. 
 
 Spread the shrimps close together and only two 
 deep on the large-t sized meat platter, pour enough 
 of the jelly over just to cement the shrimps together 
 and set the dish in the refrigerator to get cold. 
 
 When to be dished up cut the shrimps in jelly in 
 cakes, either with a sharp knife in obloDgs, tri- 
 
 angles, squares, or diamonds, leaving no residue, oi 
 with a round or oval cutter. 
 
 Dish up in combination with a green salad bor- 
 der. One oblong cake on a bed of cress. Two 
 small triangles set up against a pile of salad in the 
 middle. 
 
 3. The last is one of the speedy if somewhat 
 rough-and-ready ways that are always piacticable, 
 while this takes time. 
 
 Prepare a small bowl of chopped green lettuce, 
 about a pint may do, and moisten it with some salad 
 dressing. 
 
 Pour a spoonful of flavored jelly in each one of 
 about 25 slender conical shaped wine glasses, or 
 moulds like them, let it run all around to coat the 
 sides, stick the shrimps in order upon the jelly, and 
 let it set in a cold place. When about two rows 
 have been put in place, put a teaspoonful of the 
 chopped lettuce in the cavity, and the shrimps 
 dipped in jelly, on the point of a fork, can be 
 placed in the upper rows easily. Fill up with the 
 prepared lettuce and pour a spoonful of jelly on top 
 of that and be sure the moulds stand level while the 
 jelly is setting. The moulds or glasses have to be 
 placed in ice water when the weather is not cold. 
 
 To dish up, dip the mould a moment in warm water, 
 wipe the outside and shake the shape of jellied 
 shrimps out onto a bed of cress in its dish. Stick a 
 plume of fennel or a flower in the top of the cone. 
 
 4. The stamping works now turn out a great 
 variety of fancy shapes of gem pans, some in form 
 of scallop shells, that are well adapted for moulding 
 these individual aspics in, and are less troublesome 
 than border moulds. There is no good reason why 
 this day's dinner should be just like any other day's 
 dinner in these little ornamental accessories. 
 
 738. 
 
 Oyster Salad. 
 
 6 dozen fresh oysters. 
 
 6 heads of celery with part of their green tops. 
 
 About half as much tender white cabbage. 
 
 The mayonaise salad dressing. 
 
 1. Make the mayonaise with lemon juice instead of 
 vinegar — or use the juice of 2 lemons, 1 tablespoon- 
 ful of tarragon vinegar and a little pepper sauce or 
 chili vinegar. 
 
 After washing the celery and cabbage throw then* 
 into boiling salted water, let them boil not less than 
 5 nor more than 10 minutes, then drain and cover 
 with cold water, then drain dry and chop them 
 fine. 
 
 The green celery leaves acquire an intenser green 
 in the boiling water, and chopped with the stalks 
 and roots give a tinge to the whole. 
 
 Drain the liquor from the oysters and bring it to 
 a boil in order to remove the scum either by skim- 
 ming or straining. After that add to it an equal 
 quantityof good vinegar, a seasoning of broken 
 
194 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 pepper-corns, pepper sauce and salt, then put in the 
 oysters and bring them just to the boiling point and no 
 more. Siiake the saucepan continually that the 
 oysters may become set while cooking in round and 
 plump shape. Then drain them from the liquor and 
 set them away on a dish to become ice-cold. 
 
 When to be dished season the chopped celery, 
 etc., with oil and vinegar, slightly, but well mixed 
 in, spread a spoonful of it in the middle of each 
 small dish, on that lay some oysters side by side, 
 and on top another spoonful of the celery. Flatten 
 the top slightly but don't smooth the sides. Pour 
 the mayonaise over just thin enou to run. 
 
 The foregoing is not enough for the average orders 
 of fifty persons. 
 
 2. Prepare the ingredients as above — but the 
 allemande salad dressing or any other may be used 
 as well. 
 
 Fry some outside leaves of lettuce, twice as many 
 as you expect to use that you may select those 
 which are the most like shells in shape and of the 
 finest green-bronze color after frying. Good sweet 
 lard should be used made hot in the potato fryer, 
 but not smoking hot. The leaves take about a 
 minute or two to fry green colored but dry. When 
 done lay them hollow side down on baking sheets 
 and let them drain perfectly in a hot place, then let 
 them become cold. Shape little oyster (or lobster) 
 salads in egg cups, and dish them up in these crisped 
 lettuce leaves like a fish in a shell. Spread dressing 
 over as usual. 
 
 739. 
 
 Aspic of Oysters. 
 
 Prepare the oysters as for salad by scalding them 
 in seasoned vinegar and oyster liquor. 
 
 Prepare some green aspic jelly {ravigote jelly) by 
 boiling some green celery leaves done, draining dry, 
 pounding, mixing with clear aspic and then strain- 
 ing it again. Cool the green jelly in the smallest 
 flat dishes — it is to form foundations to lay the 
 oysters on. 
 
 Boil some eggs hard and chop the yolks for border 
 ornament. Now place about four oysters diagonally 
 side by side in the smallest flat dish, and pour over 
 enough clear white or amber jelly, highly eeasoned 
 with pepper sauce and lemon juice, to nearly cover 
 them. When all are cold slip the shapes of green 
 jelly from their dishes by means of a knife and 
 place them bottom side up on the dishes they are to 
 be served in, then the shape of oysters on that and 
 ornament with the minced yolks or tiny leaves of 
 heart lettuce. 
 
 "Alleys of scarlet tomatoes, purple mulberries, 
 grapes, lemons, oranges, quinces, pumpkins. 
 
 'melons ; gourds of all shape?, sizes, and colors, green 
 and pinky and yellow and violet ; pearly rice from 
 the fields about Mantua; and uuground maize, like 
 beads of clouded amber. Flowers are in profusion 
 — roses, camellias, and autumn violets; besidfs 
 mountains of mulberry leives for silk-worm breed- 
 ers, pine cones for firing, flat baskets piled high 
 with wrinkled olives, and sacks of shining brown 
 chestnuts. 
 
 "Giving smile for smile, greeting for greeting, La 
 Giulietta meanwhile makes her modest purchases ; 
 lettuce and cress and sweet fennel for salad ; lentils 
 and a handful of tawny fungi for soup ; a little pat 
 of fresh butter wrapped in mulberry leaves; and the 
 proffered morsel of stracchino for Uncle S'efano's 
 supper." — An Italian Market-place. — Lord Bracken- 
 bury. 
 
 "Another species of fennel, called finocchio by the 
 Italians, is also u?ed for the same purposes, and a? a 
 flavoring for soups." — Bazar. 
 
 "In a corner, far away from any group of talk- 
 ers, two mules were standing, well adorned with 
 red tassels and collars. One of them carried wooden 
 milk-vessels, the other a pair of panniers filled with 
 herbs and salads. * * * * Nevertheless 
 our stranger had no compunction in awaking her, 
 but the means he chose were so gentle that it seemed 
 to the damsel in her dream as if a little sprig of 
 thyme had touched her lips while she was stooping 
 to gather the herbs." — An Italian Marketplace. — 
 Romola. 
 
 'Would you kindly get those Soissons haricots 
 fetched, which I see at the end of the table. * * 
 * * I beg also your favorable notice for the 
 small marsh beans, sometimes called English beans ; 
 when still green they are a dish for the gods." — 
 Savarin. 
 
 * It is said that we are indebted to Alexander the 
 Great for the introduction of this bean into Europe, 
 for while marching on his victorious route in India 
 his eye fell upon a field of these plants. They ap- 
 peared to him very inviting, and finding them good 
 for food he highly recommended them to his coun- 
 trymen." 
 
 "The Romans preserved them with vinegar and 
 garum, and they were handed round at the begin- 
 ning of a feast to excite the appetites of the guests." 
 
 "About Bari? Surely — a seaport on the Adriatic 
 coast. You may see plenty of Bari trading vessels 
 at Ancona and Venice. Our neighbor Sacch', who 
 understands the wholesale business as well as any 
 man in town, gets all his oil from Bari. Being 
 brought by sea to Venice, it comes cheaper than the 
 oils of Florence and Lucca, which have to be 
 brought across the Apennines. Don't you know 
 the proverb, 'Bari for oil, Trani for figs, Otranto for 
 pretty women?' " — Lord Brackenbury. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 195 
 
 740. 
 
 Salade Jardiniere. 
 
 With peas, asparagus points and other green 
 vegetables really green, beets blood red, and first- 
 rate aspic jelly for border, and flowers, nothing goes 
 to table I hat is more showy than this. 
 
 Cat a number of difi'erent colored root vegetables 
 in slices and boil them till done in salted water — a 
 white turnip, a yellow rutibaga, a red carrot, salsi- 
 fy, parsnip, broad celery stalks, almost anything for 
 variety. 
 
 When done stamp them all out in little star shapes 
 or flower fchapes, with a tin vegetable cutler, not 
 much larger than a^silver dime. 
 
 Also stamp out a quaotity of the same star shapes 
 of cooked beets, the deepest red, and keep them 
 ready in vinegir, separate. 
 
 Boil a corresponding proportion of asparagus 
 heads green, also some g'^een peas (unless you cm 
 get the French peas, and half a can may do), and 
 string beans and chives, etc. A small quantity of 
 the French ognons, or small seed onions sold in bot- 
 tles, is alsT a de*-irable addition. Cut the string 
 beans in diamond shapes. 
 
 Mix all these vegetables, except the beets and a 
 sprinkling of the peas or asparagus points, together 
 with enough oil and vinegar to moisten, and turn 
 them from one bowl to another a few times. 
 
 Pile in the middle of the dishes, and pour thin 
 mayonaise over, and scatter the star shapes of beets 
 and the green peas all over the top. 
 
 Around the edge of the dishes place blocks of am 
 ber jelly, lettuce leavesi, tiny bunches of cress, flow- 
 ers, etc., all or part, according to fancy. 
 
 The jelly should be cooled in dishes, in depth 
 about half an inch, cut in perfect cubes, then cut 
 across, to form three-sided blocks. For all these 
 ornamental purposes it is generally necessary to 
 clarify the aspic jeliy a second time— it makes it 
 firmer and of a more golden richness of appearance. 
 All things in this class are Yor style. Good work- 
 manship tells. Better never attempt them at all 
 than make them but tawdry imitations. 
 
 T41. To Boil Vegretables Green. 
 
 Let asparagus, peas and string beans lie in cold 
 water an hour or two before cooking, then put them 
 into water that is already boiling, but just before 
 putting them in, drop a little bi-carbonate of soda 
 into it. A pinch of carbonate of ammonia does as 
 well. Too much of either makes the vegetables soft 
 and yellow. 
 
 The French green ^Q&a—petits pois — are better 
 than ours, chiefly because they are gathered while 
 young enough, so, likewise, are the English, but 
 American peas never are — except in California. 
 
 The French petits pots are made so green by the 
 addition of a small quant i-y of Vichy salt to the 
 water they are canned in, aa alkaline salt from the 
 f imous springs. Bi-carbona(e of soda wiih salt has 
 about the same effect. 
 
 Spinach, summer cabbag?*, Brussels sprouts and 
 the like are kept green ^hile boiling by the same 
 treatment as asparagus and peas. Green celery 
 leaves — useful in salad making — need no alkali to 
 green then, the boiling water is sufficient. 
 
 74S. 
 
 When using the coarser outside stalks of celery 
 
 for any purpose that requires them to be cooked 
 scrape the tough sinews from the back — much as 
 you would scale a fish — and the celery will be great- 
 ly improved. 
 
 743. 
 
 "Heliveth well wholoveih well 
 All things both great and pmall." 
 
 — Ancient Mariner. 
 
 *• 'Are you a favorer of the olive ?' said Lord G — . 
 
 *No,' said I, *I love^it^not ; it hath an under taste 
 of sourness and an upper of oil, that do not make 
 harmony to my palate*' " — Bulwer. 
 
 In the aalade jardiniere, and the two next to come, 
 you can put away that bottle of queen olives — in the 
 jardiniere as a border ornament instead of jelly, and 
 in the others as part cf their composition, and be 
 done with the perplexity. For it. is perplexing, 
 seeing the queen olive's visits to the kitchen are so 
 few and far between, to have somebody set the bot- 
 tle on the table in a perfectly matter-of-course way 
 saying, "As we want this to be a very nice afi'air 
 you can have some olives for your salad,*' and then 
 walk off". Now what are you to do with queen 
 olives to be fine for all they are worth ? You have 
 heard of a gentleman who is at all the outside par- 
 ties and festivals where you have to send your con- 
 tributions of boned turkeys and roast hams and 
 things, who is a terror because he is a critic, and 
 who always atjthose places makes the people a salad 
 with olives. And it is the olive part that gives the 
 impression of style, wherefore you likewise must 
 do something great, and there's your bottle of olives. 
 
 Now you wish your people were Italians, to eat 
 their olives plain, like these in Lothair: 
 
 "On this morn, this violent morn, a few fishermen 
 in one of the country boats happened to come in, 
 about to dry a net upon a sunny bank. Lothair ad- 
 mired the trim of the vessel, and got talking with 
 the men ae they ate their bread and olives, and a 
 small fish or two." 
 
 Or like these ia Lord Brackenbury : 
 
 **So La Giulietta hurries in to spread the table; 
 and presently they are all silting together at their 
 evening meal — a meal literally of Attic simplicity, 
 consisting of bread, salad, salted olives, a kind of 
 sweet cake made with chestnut flour, aud a measure 
 of country wine in a wicker flask.' 
 
.96 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 Or like these in Don Quixote : 
 
 "They were all good-looking young fellows ; each 
 had his wallet, whicb, as it soon appeared, was well 
 stored, at least with relishing incentives to thirst, 
 and such as provoke it at two leagues distance. 
 
 They laid themselves along on the ground, and, 
 making the grass their table-cloth, there was 
 presently a comfortable display of bread, salt, nuts, 
 and cheese, with some bacon bones, which, though 
 they would not bear picking, were to be sucked 
 with advantage. Caviare too was produced — a kind 
 of black eatable, made of the roes of fish : a notable 
 awakener of thirst. Even olives were not wanting, 
 and though somewhat dry, they were savory and in 
 good keeping. But the glory of the feast was six 
 bottles of wine." 
 
 An English authority, too, advising on the make- 
 up of a supper, says it will be as well to provide a 
 few olives for the gentlemen ; but means them plain, 
 in pickle dishes. 
 
 In a little menu of an ancient dinner of Washing- 
 ton's, recently discovered among the family relics, 
 that was printed in the Reporter ^ olives plain ap- 
 pears twice. However, our gentleman makes salads 
 with olives in. 
 
 Salade de Lefirumes, 
 
 a ritalienne. 
 
 A match to the jardiniere salad, and, like it, made 
 of several varieties of vegetables cut in forms. No 
 msiyonaise needed unless for ornamental piping, 
 like icing patterns on a cake. The distinctive 
 feature is the border- mould of vegetable patterns 
 and mosaics set in jelly ; in the hollow center the 
 plainer colored vegetables being piled, seasoned only 
 with oil, salt, pepper, and tarragon vinegar. As 
 the large moulds are almost useless for individual 
 ser.vice, and even at parties are seldom if ever cut, 
 the writer uses individual border moulds, which 
 any tinner can make. They are of size and shape 
 to fit the small dishes, from 2^ to 3 inches long, and 
 farm a trench or border an inch deep, the jelly, etc., 
 moulded therein forming a rim for the dish, the 
 centre being vacant. 
 
 1. Take a scollop scoop — not too small and tedi- 
 ous — one that scoops a sort of cblong shell shape or 
 berry out of vegetables — and scoop about a cupful 
 of potatoes raw, and then cook them in salted water. 
 Also a cupful of cooked beets, same shape, and per- 
 haps other vegetables, and a like quanti<y of shapes 
 of white of eggs. Prepare likewise some cooked 
 string beans by cutting them of same length, and 
 stone a bottle of olives. 
 
 Set the small border moulds in a pan that i? set in 
 another pan of ice, water, and salt. Drop 3 or 4 
 olives in each and fill in between with the mixed 
 
 colored sh'ipes of vegetables and white of eggs, and 
 fill up with amber aspic jelly 
 
 While the borders are setiing prepare the inside 
 filling. Choose cauliflower, potatoes', asparagus, 
 beets, and green peas ; cook them, divide the c.uli- 
 flower into small flowerets, cut the polatoes and 
 beets in very small dice, use only the green heads 
 of the asparagus, season them all with tarragon 
 vinegar, oil, salt and pepper. Turn the jelly bor- 
 ders out of their moulds and pile the other mixture 
 in the middle. 
 
 2. Another way without border moulds is to 
 spread the mixed shapes of vegetables and egg white 
 over a large platter, pour on jelly to cover them, 
 and, whea set, wi h a sharp knife cut across in 
 diamonds, and then divide these across forming 
 triangles, carefully without dragging and displacing 
 the vegetables. Take up these triaoglea with sugar 
 tongs and dipping one edg8 in melted jelly set them 
 up around the dish, and fill the ce ntre as in the 
 other. The olives may be used mixed in the centre 
 filling, or as ornaments, alternating with the jelly 
 shapes. 
 
 Huge salads of this kind are made for banquets 
 and ball suppers, sometimes in pyramidal form, the 
 sides of the moulds elaborately dtcorated with pat- 
 terns of white of egg3 (that has been steamed in a 
 mass shallow in a pan, for large leaves, etc , to be 
 stamped out), and asparagus set up in jelly in full 
 length, with white and red rosea of turnips and 
 beets. These are ornamental pieces and for nothing 
 else. 
 
 The honeycombed vegetables left after cutting or 
 scooping can be steamed and mashed, the beets can 
 often be chopped and used in another salad. 
 
 There are knives of peculiar shape sold for 
 stoning olives. It makes a difierence if the olives 
 be the large kind and not such as now sometimes 
 come in kegs. 
 
 '^46. 
 
 Salade a la Russe. 
 
 Various mixtures of fish and vegeiaoies, ^ith 
 olives, pickles, capers and the like are called Kus- 
 sian salad, the disiinguishing feature, however, is 
 the Russian salad dressing of highly gea-oned jelly 
 whipped toafroih, The ge'atine manufacturers have 
 caused to be pretty well known certain sweet trifles 
 made by whipping lemon jtl y while cooling on ice 
 to a froth resembling whiie of egg^, and then called 
 lemon snow, snow puddiog, aud the like. These 
 are known as Russian jel y or jelly a la Russe in 
 French cookery. The Russian salad jelly is the 
 same thing with ealad seasonings instead of sweets. 
 It may be either white, red, green or yellow ; and 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 197 
 
 when ornamental border moulds are made with it 
 the variatiors a'e to get red fleshed fishes such as 
 Ijbsterj, shrimps and silmon to show in the white 
 jelly, and while fish and sometimes chicken, ecalded 
 oyttcrs and the like, to show in colored jelly. 
 Olives, cipers, green {gherkins and pickled peppers 
 are always in p'ace in Russian salad*?, and caviare 
 is good for their ornamentation. The inside of the 
 border shapes may be filled with any mixture of 
 vegetables, like the Italian vegetable salad, and 
 mayonaise poured over. 
 
 Where so much depends upon individual taste it 
 seems useless to give minute directions. 
 
 To make the jelly melt a pint of good firm aspic 
 jelly, then whip it wi h an egg beater, in a pan of 
 ice water, addicg at the same time a quarter pint of 
 olive oil and a little less of mixed vinegars — chili 
 and tarragon — or lemon juice and some plain 
 vinegar. To make the jelly very white whip one or 
 two whites of eggs to a froth and stir them in just as 
 it begins to be too firm to beat. 
 
 The red fishes should be cut in pieces of even siz?, 
 mixed in the jelly, togHher with the olives, capers 
 and shapes of pickles, and the moulds immediately 
 filled. A good efi"ect m 3y be produced by dropping 
 into the white jelly little cubes of clear jelly of 
 diflferent colors. 
 
 To color this whipped jelly red use beet vinegar, 
 or lobster spawa pounded and rubbed through a 
 fine f eive. For yellow mix mayonaise dre-sing in 
 it iastead of oil and vinegar. For green use the 
 juice pressed out of pounded raw spinach leaves, or 
 of cooked celery leaves. 
 
 Stone the olives and fill I hem with chopped mixed 
 pickles before putting them in the salad. 
 
 If the lobster holds the most prominent place 
 among salads we guess it must be because the Old- 
 World cooks, purveyors, major-domos and kings' 
 tasters have thrust it fjrward for its bright color to 
 make their set tables look like piciures. Looking 
 back through an American cooking experience of 
 about thiriy yeirs the writer has never had reason 
 to regard it as particularly delicious eating. Con- 
 spicuous ia the foreign menu cert;;iii'y, but who 
 can Gill to mind where any writer has eulogized 
 lobster salad or held up the lobster for anything but 
 a comparison f.r somebody's red face? Somewhere 
 Thackeray who mentions everything eatable, and 
 each at its proper style of table, and^ who knew what 
 was good, mentions lobster and I .bster salad, but in 
 b th places they are in the hands of low-down per- 
 sons ; one of them in a duety place at a fair. 
 
 '746> Lobster Salad. 
 
 MAYONAISE DE HOMARD, ETC. 
 
 1. The Lirgest quintity of lobster can be dis- 
 posed of at hotel tables by serving it (after taking 
 
 the meat out cf the shell) plain, whh only a little 
 good vinegar poured over in the dish, and 2 or 3 
 cripp leaves of heart lettuce. It is one of the 
 pleasures of the table for some people to make their 
 own salads. 
 
 2. Cut the lobster as nearly in dice shape as may 
 be, leaving the scraps and crumbs to be used for 
 some other purpose — as fish sauce, croquettes, lob- 
 ster cutlets, etc. — and mix it with an equal quantity 
 of boiled potatoes cut to correspond, in the hollan-» 
 daise salad dressing. Use shred lettuce to garnish. 
 
 3. Chop 6 or 8 heads of white celery and stir in- 
 to it a Utile oil, vinegar, popper and salt. 
 
 Select enough fine large pieces of the lobster meat 
 for about 25 individual dishes ; steep them in oil, 
 vinegar, pepper and salt in a bowl, and dish one or 
 two pieces laid diagonally on a spread out spoonful 
 of the eelery. 
 
 4. Prepare the mayonaise salad dressing with 
 lemon juice insiead of vinegar, or part of the vine- 
 gar. 
 
 Chop six heads of celery with enough of the tend- 
 erest green tops mixed in to make it all light green. 
 Cut the lobster in pieces all of one size and keep out 
 the reddest meat in a dish by itself. 
 
 Dish a layer of the chopped celery in flat individ- 
 ual dishes ; then lobster on that with the red pieces 
 strewn at the edge where they will show among the 
 green ; then another spoonful of celery on top of the 
 lobster, and press down the top slightly. Pour the 
 mayonaise over just thin enough to run and mask 
 without hiding the colors'. These salads look like 
 tufts of moss. 
 
 5. Steep the lobster in oil, vinegar, pepper and 
 salt. Dish on flat dishes, spread thick mayonaise or 
 other dressing on top, and decorate with quarters 
 of boiled eggs, olives, pickles, capers, chopped let- 
 tuce, etc., as for shrimp salads. 
 
 T47. 
 
 Lobsters, crabs, crayfish and shrimps are all 
 cooked by dropping them alive into boiling water, 
 sailed. It is the old world fashion of the fishermen 
 who bring in the daily market supply of shrimps, 
 to boil them in sea water, on their way in. They 
 have boilers set in brick work in their boats for the 
 purpose. And so, it is said, do the lobster fishers of 
 Gaspe Bay, where lobsters do most abound. 
 Shrimps take but a few minutes to cook, lobsters 
 take half an hour and more. 
 
198 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 The lobster coral or spawn, if these furrdshcd 
 happen to conta.n any, can be used, pounded and 
 rubbed through a eeive, to mix with mayonaise to 
 give it a red color and serve for variety in orijamen- 
 tation. Another great use of the coral is to make 
 iobster butter by pounding it with an equal amount 
 of fresh butter and rubbing through aseive. Add 
 Bome lemon juice and chopped parsley. A tolerable 
 iubstitute is the red claw meat of the lobster. This 
 butter is used for spreading on bread or toast to 
 build up salads on, and for sticking large pieces of 
 lobster together. If seldom eaten it may be that 
 the nature and composition of red butter is not gen- 
 erally understood. However, it goes well as a cold 
 sauce with hot fish, and in that way is never wasted. 
 
 Then there is green sauce. Just lately I was 
 trapped into reading a bill of fare. It was a Christ- 
 mas bill, printed large, and set in a restauraLt 
 window among the ornamented dishes of an evidi;n^- 
 ly good cook, and the novelty of it was salmon wi h 
 green sauce. Why green sauce instead cf ravi^ote, 
 remoulade, Montpellier, or something else that con- 
 veys no picture to the mind ? But green sauce 
 stretches away back to the time of the old Ramans, 
 and perhaps beyond them to the Babylonians and 
 Persians. 
 
 Here, comparatively recent, yet writlen three 
 hundred and seventy years ago, is a French book 
 talking about green sauce : 
 
 " *It is,' said Panurge, *my lords the king of the 
 clouted hose. I intend to make him an honest man, 
 I will put him to a trade, and make him a crier of 
 green-sauce. Go to, begin and cry ; Do you lack 
 any green-sauce ? And the poor devil began to 
 cry.' " 
 
 Truly, green s^ace might mean * garden- sass" or 
 other things, but here are particulars : 
 
 "Pantagruel gave them a little lodge near the 
 lower street, and a mortar of stone wherein to bray 
 and pound their sauce." 
 
 It must be inferred that green-sauce has at some 
 times been cried as a marketable article like pop- 
 corn. Green sauce, the simple base, in modern 
 French cookery is called ravigote, and consists of 
 some half dozen kinds of herbs — tarragon, chives 
 parsley, burnet and others, pounded io a green 
 pulp and then pressed through a seive. Of this 
 Ude, and then Ctreme made a dozen diflp rent com- 
 binations in hot sauces, like mint sauce with roist 
 lamb, and cold green sauces and butters. Some of 
 these are used solely for salads, Montpelier butter 
 particularly, spread on toast as an ornamental 
 border or foundation for lobster and fish. The ex- 
 pressed juice of pounded spinach leaves is relied 
 upon for coloring a deeper green, and boiled celery 
 leaves ^ill answer as well. These sauces and con- 
 diments are not likely to become Americanized hz- 
 cause of the danger of ignorant cooks using artificial 
 green colorings, which are nearly all poisonous. 
 
 T48. 
 
 Lobster in the Shell. 
 
 Divide the lobster in convenient-sized pieces, crack 
 the claws with a hammer, and serve p'ain ; the best 
 pieces only, the fragments can be put to other uses. 
 Send in a quarter of lemon on each dish. 
 
 T40. 
 
 Buisson of Lobsters or Prawns. 
 
 The buisson or bush of lobsters, so often appear- 
 ing in menus of banquets, is the same as would be a 
 pyramid cf anything else. It is an ornamental 
 style of serving lobster in the shell for a large num- 
 ber, and sometimes the smallest lobsters are chosen 
 for the purpose. The ways are various. The lob- 
 sters are fastened overlapping each other, tails up- 
 wards, in pyramid9l form on a tall and slender 
 evergreen bush — a Christmas tree in efifect — with 
 their claws, horns and eyes looking out menacingly 
 from among the green. Another way is to make a 
 pyramid of pressed corned beef incased in jelly and 
 stick the lobsters in like form on that with silver 
 headed skewers, filling in with greens and flowers. 
 Prawns on the same plan and smaller scale Little 
 pyramids of shrimps and prawns are made by cut- 
 ting a long loaf of bread in pineapple shape and 
 sticking the unpicked shrimps all over it by their 
 horns. Picked shrimps are similarly made to cover 
 tall shapes moulded in cold butter. There is pileuty 
 of room to depart from these suggestions and fur- 
 nish new designs. 
 
 "What a pleasure it is to have a good appetite, 
 when one is certain of soon having an excellent din- 
 ner!" * * * "Of all the qualities 
 of a cook, the most indispensible is punctuality." — 
 Savarin. 
 
 * That all-3oftening, overpowering knell, 
 The tocsin of the soul — the dinner bell." 
 
 — Byron. 
 
 Some hotels now make a public exhibit of their 
 Christmas meats and delicacies. I think sometime 
 there will be a new fashion of particg oflf a portion 
 of the dining room with a glass partition, in which 
 room, as through a shop window, the compul orily 
 idle guests instead of watching the clock hand drag 
 its slow loL'gth along will be allowed to see going on 
 the cleacly and fireless process of salad making and 
 decoration ; the construction of the latest novelties 
 iu confeciioneries and bcquets of fruits; the orna- 
 mentation of boned turkeys and the like after new 
 designs furnished by the Lakeside Society of Decora- 
 tive Art — Culinary Branch. Then the dining ro: m 
 will not be so wrapped in a dim religious light, and 
 so formidably closed and bolted but that the sl'p- 
 pered stewards and waiters may be seen busy with 
 their preparations for the good dinner to come 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 199 
 
 T50. Fish Salad. 
 
 FILLETS OF FISH EN MAYONAISE. 
 
 1. The kinds of fish tl at will fall apart in flakes, 
 Buch as silmoo, turb )t, halibut, redfish, and fresh 
 cod may be msde ia salads ia the same ways as 
 lobsters, shrimps and oysters, already directed. 
 But table sauce?, ketchups, sny, and essence of an- 
 chovies, can be added to the dressings according to 
 taste. 
 
 Of India soy Savarin says : "It seems likely the 
 Roman garum was a foreign sauce ; perhaps even 
 the 'soy* which we get from India, and which is 
 known to be got by the fermentation of a mixture of 
 fish and mushrooms." 
 
 T51. 
 
 2. Fillets of fish are the whole sides freed from 
 bones and skin. For individual dishes cut these 
 into smaller fillets, about the size of fingers. Lay 
 them to steep a while in oil, vinegar, pepper and 
 salt, and dish on a bed of chopped celery. Then 
 over each fillet pour a spoonful of mayonaise. 
 
 3. For a mayonaise of fillets of soles or brook 
 trout : Skin the fish before cooking, and likewise 
 split down the back and take the bones out. Roll 
 the boned fish up in fioger shape and lay them close 
 together in a pan. Pour in some broth with a dash 
 of vinegar, salt, white pepper, a piece of onion and 
 some parsley. Cover wifh a bright flat lid, put but- 
 tered paper over that and cook in the oven 20 or 80 
 minutes. There should be little or no liquor left in 
 the pan. Put a small weight on the lid to press the 
 fillets, and set them away to get cold. 
 
 When to be made in mayonaise trim the ends ofi^. 
 Moisten the fillets with oil and vinegar in a bowl, 
 and bui'd them up, if for a large dish, around a 
 conical pile of chopped celery or lettuce and pour 
 the dressing over all. Garnish with lemons. 
 
 TSS. 
 
 Boiling Fish. 
 
 The get along-without policy of neglecting to pro- 
 vide the kitchen with necessary utensils operates 
 serious y against good cookery in average hotels. 
 
 There is no question but that in the fitting up of 
 every new hotel some money is wasted in buying 
 useless articles to suit»the cranks and notions of the 
 chef that is going to take charge — things like costly 
 copper mouMs, bain maries, patent machines, etc., 
 which none of his successors in the same place will 
 ever use, and proprietors having had experience of 
 such follies are apt to take a grim revenge by re- 
 fusing to buy any uncommon article at all. Now 
 there must be, and it pays to have in the kitchens 
 even of small and unpretentious houses, a fish boi'er 
 wiih its drainer or false bottom and hooked upright 
 at each end to lift it and the fish out by ; a slock 
 boiler with its false bottom and faucet; a potato 
 fryer with its suspended drainer ; a time-saving 
 
 large coff'eo mill, and other things scarcely leis im- 
 portant but none of them commonly to be found. 
 It pays because some of the finest fishes are finest 
 flavored when boiled, and if they can not be for 
 want of the proper appliances they have to suffer 
 deterioration by more expensive frying and baking, 
 A fish may be boiled in a stove wash-boiler and 
 fished out with two skimmers, but no company will 
 insure it against breakage. What must be must, 
 and in such a case you had better roll up the fish in 
 a clem pudding-cloth, tying the ends and pinning 
 the middle, and carefully roll it out on to its dish 
 when done. 
 
 Any tinner can make b. poissoniere or fish boiler. 
 It should be long enough for a good sized Mackinaw 
 trout whole, and wide enough for two or three on 
 the drainer. It has sides straight up and a lid. 
 
 To boil a large trout, whitefish, redfish, sheephead 
 or salmon for ealad : Scale and clean the fish, clip 
 off the fins but leave the head and tail on, and lay it 
 in a pan of cold water. Draw some clear soup- 
 stock into the fish kettle (the stock is already slight- 
 ly seasoned with vegetables), to one-third fill it. 
 Throw in a basting-spoonful of salt, a tablespoonful 
 of pepper-corns, half a bay leaf, a small onion with 
 six cloves stuck in it and a small piece of horse- 
 radish. A'so a cupful of wine if afforded, sherry or 
 claret — keep the cheap sweet angelicas and the like 
 for ices and jellies — if no wine half a cup of vinegar 
 instead. Let this liquor come to a boil, then wipe 
 the fish clean and dry, lay it on the drainer and let 
 come to a boil quickly. Then put on the lid and 
 move the ket'le to the side of the range to simmer 
 slowly. Rapid boiling breaks the fish. Too much 
 cooking softens it. 
 
 Half an hour is the average time it takes to boil a 
 fish just done, but varies according to the eize. 
 Redfish and salmon, being solid fleshed, bear longer 
 boiling than lake trout. Cool the fish in the liquor 
 it was boiled in. 
 
 753. 
 
 Redfish, Whitefish or Trout in Aspic 
 Jelly. 
 
 An ornamental dish. Border moulds are needed, 
 common jelly moulds will do. 
 
 Take the boiled fish ice-cold from the liquor it 
 was boiled in, wipe off with a napkin dipped in hot 
 water, peel off the skin; then wi;h broad knives 
 split the fiah down tbeback, remove the bone and 
 lay the two fillets on a cutting board. It makes the 
 hands mest dish to have a red or pink or yellow- 
 flesbed fish to alternate with the whi'e. 
 
 Get ready a pan of water, ice and sdt (freezing 
 mixture) to dip the moulds in to set the jelly quick- 
 ly. Cut the fishes in finger-like strips. 
 
 Flavor some melted jelly with chi'i vinegar and 
 table sauce poured off clear, then co^t the moulds 
 with it by turning a little around in them till set. 
 
200 
 
 THE AMEBICAN COOK. 
 
 Place the pieces of fish in upright order around 
 the mould with something to make ornamental 
 stripes betwixt each piece — it may be the chopped 
 red meat of lobster, a fine line of chopped yolk ol 
 egg, picked shrimps, or chopped parsley or tender 
 green celery leaves. 
 
 One side of the mould has to be finished at a time, 
 a little jelly poured over and allowed to set in the 
 ice water, to be then turned over and the other side 
 lined. With a number of moulds to work on there is 
 no time lost. 
 
 For the inside filling mix aspic jelly and thick 
 mayonaise in about equal quantities, and beat it 
 light on ice; just before it sets stir in chopped 
 celery or white lettuce, or both, and when the fish- 
 lined moulds are filled — or the hollow border if 
 border moulds be used — let them set in a cold place 
 till to be served. The dishes should be garnished 
 with a border of picked leaves of water cress, and 
 something to show it is fish, as shrimps or pieces of 
 lobster, or better still, some of the smallest fish ob- 
 tainable, incased in clear jelly whole, like oysters in 
 aspic, and laid in order around. 
 
 A good deal of deteriorated and ill-savored food is 
 sent to hotel tables through the semi-accidental fer- 
 mentation of soup stocks, liquors in which fish are 
 left to cool, and the like, and never so much as 
 when the preparation of a banquet requires some 
 things to be made a good while before. This is not 
 through want of skill in making, but want of care in 
 keeping. It is next to impossible for a large kettle 
 of fish boiled over night, or a large body of soup 
 stoek to remain unchanged till next day, a sort of 
 "salt-rising" fermentation sets in. This is not to 
 run down hotel cookery but point the remedy. 
 Always cool off soup stock in several shallow pans 
 and stir once in a while, and never set fish away in 
 the kettle more than one fish deep ; and the kettle 
 should be tipped once or twice while cooling to ex- 
 pel the heat from the center. After that there is no 
 risk of a bad taste. 
 
 And, before we get too far from green sauce: 
 There is a book in the British museum all about 
 trout, that was written by a cook and published 
 within a few years of Izaak Walton's Complete 
 Angler. In a rhyming preface the author says : 
 
 ' 'Forty years in ambassadors' kitchens I 
 Learned the art of cookery. " 
 And he has ''trout pie to eat hot/' and "trout pie to 
 eat cold," and "cold trout in armour of green," in 
 which we find the same old pounded herbs, or 
 ravigote, mixed with butter and seasonings, and 
 spread smoothly all over the cold boiled fish, which 
 is then ornamented with thin sliced pickles to imi- 
 tate scales and gills. This is done with truffle slices 
 in modern French cookery, and the dish gees by 
 another name. 754, 
 
 Another dish of fish in armor of green, necessary 
 
 for those to be posted in who would get up novel, if 
 very old, dishes for banquets is: 
 
 Mix thick mayonaise with a third as much aspic 
 jelly and color it green with the juice from pounded 
 spinach leave?. When so nearly set as not to run 
 spread it evenly over a cold boiled fish raised on a 
 bread or chopped celery foundation, and decorate 
 with truffles, whole yolks of eggs, aspic jelly or 
 sliced or quartered lemons. 
 
 For if the salad makers and their work had not 
 some strange charm of mystery for the public why 
 should the novelists make so much use of the man 
 who can make a mayonaise ? 
 
 That man is nearly ubiquitous in English fiction — 
 if we had time to follow him — not that mayonaise is 
 always as. plainly mentioned as in the instance in 
 our opening column, but it is implied when not 
 named as one of the branches of occult knowledge 
 that is to give that personage, who is oftenest a 
 valet, a hold upon your imagination. 
 
 The man who can make a mayonaise, whom every 
 reader knows, is done up in the smallest parcel per- 
 haps in Felix Bolt : 
 
 <*0h! one of those wonderful Southern fellows 
 that make one's life easy. He's of no country in 
 particular. I don't know whether he's most of a 
 Jew, a Greek, an Italian, or a Spaniard. He speaks 
 five or six languages, one as well as another. He's 
 cook, valet, major-domo, and secretary all in one; 
 and what's more, he's an affectionate fellow — I can 
 trust to his attachment. That's a sort of human 
 specimen that doesn't grow here in England, I 
 fancy. * * * * The old servants 
 will have to put up with my man Dominic, who will 
 show them how to cook and do everything else, in a 
 way that will rather astonish them." 
 
 Here he crops out in Thackeray's Virginians : 
 
 "Gumbo had a hundred accomplishments. * * 
 * * He was great at cooking mauy of his 
 Virginian dishes, and learned many new culinary 
 secrets from my Lord's French man." 
 
 Now we all know those secrets were how to make 
 a mayonaise or two, but the authors do not always 
 know as much as their characters — how valuable 
 must have been the salad-making knowlege pos- 
 sessed by Count Fosco, in the Woman in White — he 
 an Italian, a Count, and with domestic proclivi- 
 ties — but which the author forgot to give to the 
 world ! 
 
 These men of extraordinary knowledge have to do 
 other things than make strange dishes for the 
 French reader. The same sort of valet or major- 
 domo, in Dumas' Queen's Necklace, alone knows 
 where there is but just one bottle of a priceless 
 wine left in the cellar of a distant chateau, and 
 manages to steal it in time for a royal guest in so 
 many hours and minutes by the clock. With all 
 his acquaintance with various dishes the author of 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 201 
 
 the Virginians missed it badly when in going over all 
 he could think of that the Colonists had to eat he 
 quite forgot chicken salad. Let us see : 
 
 •'You know what I mean — shad and salmon and 
 rockfish and roedeer and hogs and buflfalos and 
 bisons. * * Countless quantities of shad 
 and salmon, wild geese, wild swans, pigeons and 
 plovers, and myraids of canvas-backed ducks. ^ 
 * The gumbo was perfection, the shad were 
 rich and fresh — stewed terrapins — sweets and flans 
 — Mr. Justice, you love woodcock pie? * * 
 And now the sweets and pudding are come, of 
 which I can give you a list if you like ; but what 
 young lady cares for the puddings of to-day, much 
 more for those which were eaten a hundred years 
 ago?" 
 
 It is of no use looking. There are some grand 
 Virginian feasts but Hamlet is left out. There is 
 cold roast turkey, but no Virginian chicken or turkey 
 salad. 
 
 It is pretty certain if Madam Esmond, who had 
 "such a hand for light pastry," made chicken salad 
 in Virginia a hundred years ago, the chicken was 
 first cut in bits about an inch long, and then pulled 
 apart in shreds, for that is the way American house- 
 wives of to-day say it should be done ; but then 
 that lady had plenty of help. There is no 
 slower operation than pulling chicken meat into 
 fine shreds, and hotel cooks can't. 
 
 T55. 
 
 Fowls to be cooked should always be sorted, and 
 generally be boiled separately — the old and the 
 young — for while some will be done in less than an 
 hour others take 4 or 5 hours. To find when they 
 are tender lift from the boiling liquor with a fork 
 and pinch the flesh of the drumstick. To know 
 when they are young, before cooking, try the point 
 of the breast bone. When fowls have done growing 
 the entire breast bone hardens, before that it can be 
 bent. A more reliable testis, try if you can push 
 your thumb through the thin skin that stretches be- 
 tween the joint of the wings. It is quite essential to 
 make the matter of age sure before boiling a boned 
 fowl done up in cloth. 
 
 V56. 
 
 Chicken Salad. 
 
 Boil 3 or 4 fowls in the stock boiler and when 
 done tender set them away to get cold. 
 
 1. Cut all the meat of the fowls into strips, and 
 then across, making dice shapes, and as small as 
 time will allow, but don't chop it. 
 
 Cut 6 or 8 heads of celery the same way. 
 
 Prepare either the mayonaise or the salad dressing 
 made wi'h cooked yolks. 
 
 Mix with both the chicken and the celery, but 
 seperately, a li> tie eil, vinegar, pepper and ealt — 
 >ist enough to moisten and make them look juicy- 
 
 then press the chicken into an oval mould such as a 
 melon mould or common jelly mould or a deep dish. 
 The oil, etc., will cause it to preserve a good shape. 
 Turn it out on to a flat meat dish. Spread the thick 
 mayonaise all over and smooth it with a knife, and 
 place the seasoned celery around with a spoon. 
 Decorate the salad with whatever may be con- 
 venient, not always alike. A rose cut out of a beet, 
 or a row of them, with parsley or other green, 
 natural flowers, capers, sliced hard-boiled eggs and 
 so forth, or chopped red cabbage sparingly sprinkled 
 over, or cut lemons. 
 
 Individual dishes just the same as above, but 
 shaped in individual moulds, or in egg cups can 
 have a cherry scooped out of a coc ked beet on top, 
 or a green pickle — ways that are short and speedy, 
 and olives either plain or stoned and stuffed come in 
 good place. 
 
 2. It is not essential to have a salad dressing for 
 the above, but does well enough to add more oil and 
 vinegar to the chicken and mince the celery fine. 
 Celery so minced and mixed with oil and vinegar 
 has a buttery appearance and will keep shape 
 when moulded, as it may be to form a border. Gar- 
 nish with sliced or quartered eggs beside. 
 
 3. Cut the chicken small. Prepare one-third as 
 much celery and a similar quantity of green lettuce. 
 Mix all and pour over a thin mayonaise or other 
 dressing in a bowl. Combine thoroughly, and dish 
 up spoonfuls piled a little in flat dishes. 
 
 Border of small lettuce leaves, shred lettuce or 
 minced yolks of eggs. This should not be pasty, 
 as thick dressing would make it. 
 
 Y5t. 
 
 Veal salad may be made like chicken.. It is best 
 
 to call it veal salad and make it as good as chicken 
 if possible. 
 
 758. 
 
 Turkey Salad. 
 
 The same as chicken salad. In cutting up the 
 meat it is best to leave out the thick fat skin. With 
 chickens it makes no difference. 
 
 759, Mayonaise of Chicken. 
 
 Bone 4 young but plump chickens. There need 
 be no difficulty in this. First cut down the back 
 and then cut close to the bones. It makes no 
 difference if you do cut through the skin once in a 
 while. Carve through the hip joints, inside, and 
 take the leg bones out after those of the carcass. 
 Wash the chickens in cold water, dry them, lay out 
 on a table and dredge plentifully with pepper and 
 salt. Then lay two together, the white meat of one 
 on the dark meat of the other, double or roll them 
 up loosely, tie round with twine and boil them ia 
 the stock boiler an hour. 
 
202 
 
 THE A2ffEBICAN COOK. 
 
 When done take oflF the twine and hj the chicVrns 
 out flat on two large plaiters, place other platters 
 en top, set in a c >ld place and a weight on to press 
 them to about an inch in thicknesB. 
 
 When quite cold cut the edges of the pressed 
 fowls square and divide them in shapes all of ote 
 size. Oblongs and parallel'-grams are most in stjie, 
 and tbey laid not straight in the dish but slantwise, 
 leaTiDg the ends of the dish for the garoish. Pre- 
 pare some majonaise of savory jeily by mixing 
 thick mayot'ai?e with a third as much aspic jelly 
 and when about to set pour a coating over each 
 piece of the chicken placed on large dishes for the 
 purpose. 
 
 Prepare the small dishes — 25 or 80 of them — 
 with a bed sometimes of chopped green salad 
 material or white celery, at others with finely 
 minced eggs. 
 
 Mince also a spoonful of piclled blood beets, the 
 iame of green pickles and mix them with a like 
 quantity of minced yolk of eggs, but only the 
 minute before using, less the beets color them all. 
 
 When the dressing on the chicken is perfectly 
 cold and set take each piece on a fork in the end 
 and lightly dip the npper side in the minced beets 
 etc., on a plate, and place it on its dish. At each 
 end phce a slice of lemon. 
 
 Jelly mixed wi*h cream sauce in proportion to 
 make it set can be used in place of the mayonaise. 
 
 Chickens cut up in joints, after boiling and cool- 
 ing, and the pieces smoothly trimmed, can be 
 dressed as above and for a large dish may be piled 
 around a center of lettuce salad. 
 
 V60. Fillets of Fowl in Aspic. 
 
 This way of getting the fillets ready, if not quite 
 the best, is easier for everybody to practice than 
 faking them off raw and braising with wine and 
 seasonings. 
 
 Cut the breasts from 4 boiled fowls while hot, 
 taking them off with a pointed knife cloue to the 
 'bone, with care not to tear or let the under fillet 
 separate from the large one. 
 
 Dip these whole fillets in the stock they were 
 boiled in, dredge wi»h salt and white pepper and 
 then press them bciween two dishes with a weight 
 on top. When qui e cold trim the fillets in<o pear 
 shape, then with a sharp knife divide them in slices 
 the flat, way. Lay the slices in dishes and cover 
 with clear amber jelly. When that is set cut out 
 tl.e fillets and jelly with a tin cutter bent lo the 
 hhape. Either lay them on li tie dishes prepared 
 with a bed of chopped jelly if another color, or bor- 
 der them with piping of chopped jelly forced 
 through a funnel or cornel made of writing paper, 
 and lay a slice of lemon on top. 
 
 Ihd f)ct is if the most splendid feasts of ficiton 
 
 have been left incomplete and spoiled for the want 
 of salads, it is because salads are un-English and 
 the authors are rathtr unfortunate than to blame. 
 There is a remark in A History of Our Own Timts to 
 (he effect that England is govenied by phrases, and 
 no phrase more powerful than to say a thing is un- 
 English. And it has to be remembered King 
 Ptichard fought Saladin in Palestine as King James 
 fought tobacco in England, and his countrymen and 
 their descendants have been languidly putting 
 down salad in various ways ever since. Among all 
 the incomplete banquets of English novelists, the 
 man who can make a mayonaise was never bo badly 
 needed as at one in the beginning of The Cloister 
 andthe Ilearth. The feast is, alas, a column long 
 and though quite a curiosity to culinarians is too 
 long to copy. It is Aladdin's cavern garden, with 
 fruit of gold and silver — the Land of Cockaigne 
 with roast pig crying, "eat me !" — the wine flowing 
 valley of Rasselas — a Vitellius banquet — a feast of 
 Penelope's suitors — and a Lallah Roohk's attend- 
 ance all joined in one Flemish prince's festivity. 
 Fifteen many-colored eoups and as many wines. 
 Fish in a dozen forms. Patties of lobster and al- 
 monds mixed, and of almonds and cream and an 
 immense variety of "brouetp," "known to us as 
 rissoles." A whole hog with hair and eyes too 
 naturally imitated with burnt sugar, an ox stuffed 
 full of all sorts of small animals and roasted whole. 
 Twenty different tarts of fruits and herbs. Con- 
 fectionery on a gigantic scale. Hippocras and 
 Greek and Corsican wines. But no salads ! And 
 would not twenty different kinds of salads, 
 jardiniere, Italienne, a la Russe, and aspics have 
 shone gorgeously amidst all that splendor? It 
 might be contended that Flanders was not a salad- 
 making country, but Webster's dictionary eays that 
 the word slaw is nothing but Flemish elaa, and that 
 is only their way of pronouncing French salade ; 
 and that kohl is the German for cabbage and we call 
 kohl cold, so that cold slaw is in reality cabbage 
 salade, that is to say is k ohl salad or 
 
 761, COI-D SLAW. 
 
 As served with raw oysters and sometimes with 
 roast turkey or wild fowls instead of water cress, 
 cold slaw is simply tender white cabbage shred as 
 fine as it is possible to shred it. Served in place of 
 salad at dinner it has only vinegar poured over it. 
 
 TO». German Cold Slaw. 
 
 2 pints of chopped white cabbage. 
 
 1 pint of chopped apples. 
 
 1 pint of cider vinegar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of white sugar. 
 
 Salt, pepper, and some capers for garnish. 
 
 Chop the cabbage and the apples seperately, then 
 mix them and the seasoning. 
 
 Serve large spoonfuls neatly rounded in individili* 
 al flat dishes, with capers strewn over the top. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK, 
 
 d08 
 
 T«3. 
 
 Cabbage Salad. 
 
 Chop white cabbage, season with salt and vinegar, 
 make in smooth shape in a flat dish and pour dress 
 ing over (see celery salad.) 
 
 Strew chopped beeta on top. 
 
 The Italian and French cooks don't take kindly to 
 slaw either cold or hot — seem not to understand it, 
 or they think it barbarous and uncouth — and many 
 of them will never ma^e ii of their own free will aud 
 ▼olition. Perhaps they would like it better if they 
 only knew that slaa has come down in direct de- 
 Bcent from their own salade and sallet. And they 
 ought to peiceive that hot slaw is essentially 
 nothing else but shred cabbage blanched in thin hot 
 hollandaise sauce, which they are used to. 
 
 764. 
 
 Hot Slaw. 
 
 3 quarts of finely shred cabbage. 
 
 1 pint of vinegar. 
 
 J pint of water. 
 
 8 or 10 raw yolks of eggs. 
 
 1 pod of red pepper, minced. 
 
 8 ounces of butter. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of salt. 
 
 Put the cabbage in a bright sink of the steam 
 chest, or, otherwise, in a bright saucepan placed in 
 another of boiling water. Beat, the yolks in the 
 vinegar and water till well mixed then add them 
 ftnd the butter and salt and pepper to the cabbage. 
 Stir and turn over the cabbage frequently till the 
 sauce thickens and becomes like cream. It ought 
 not to boil more than a minute. 
 
 The foregoing dish stands alone. It is a class by 
 itself. It cannot go under the head of salads but 
 must take a pince among the vegetables. But it is 
 a general favorite. There is a popular usage of 
 calling all cooked green vegetables salads as well as 
 garden sauce ; and there is foreign authority, 
 though not very "hefiy," for styling all hot vegeta- 
 bles that have a vinegar dressing, like our stewed 
 beets with sour butter sauce, en salade. 
 
 But these are not dictionary definitions. The line 
 must be drawn somewhere. All salids are cold. 
 
 Here is a place where greens are called salad. It 
 is from Beverley's History of Virginia, and quoted by 
 Thoreau : 
 
 "The Jamestown weed or thorn-apple, being an 
 early plant, was gathered very young for a boiled 
 salad, by some of the soldiers sent to Virginia to 
 quell the rebellion of Bacon ; and some of them ate 
 plentifully of it, the effect of which was a very 
 pleasant comedy, for they turned natural fools upon 
 it] for several days : one would blow up a feather in 
 the air ; anothrr would dart straws at it with much 
 fury ; arid another was sitting up in a corner like a 
 monkey, grinning and making mouths at them; a 
 
 fourth would fondly kiss and paw his companions, 
 and sneer in their f.ces, with a countenance more 
 antic than any Dutch droll. A thousand such sim- 
 ple tricks they played, and after eleven days re- 
 turned to themselves again, not remembering any- 
 thing that had pasted." 
 
 It was right, of course, for them to boil greens 
 when they went to quell bacon, gammon and 
 spinach slways go together ; but ought not the 
 properties of "Jimson weed" be thoroughly inquired 
 into ? People in hotels often act with extreme 
 foolishness, but landlords never think of investiga- 
 ting whether there wasn't some "Jimson" in the 
 greens boiled for dinner. 
 
 The proper definii ions divide salads in two classes, 
 the artificial, elaborate, compounded and peculiar 
 like those just passed along, and the spontaneoup, 
 natural find universal, the dinner of herbs and 
 peace, like these remaining. These salads come in 
 favor about the time the people who can are packing 
 their trunks and discussicg the merits and demerits 
 of the different summer resorts. 
 
 ' 0, what is so rare as a day in June? ** 
 
 — Sir Launfal, 
 «* When daisies pied, and violets blue. 
 
 And lady-smacks all silver-white, 
 And cuckoo-buds of yeUow hue 
 Do paint the meadows wii h delight." 
 
 — Lov£ s Labours Lost. 
 
 **ycrj, very soft and merry 
 Is the natural song of earth." 
 
 — Barry Cornwall, 
 "But where is the man that can live without 
 diLing?** — Owen Meredith. 
 
 * Or cloy the hungry edge of appetite 
 By bare imagination of a feast " 
 
 — King Richard II. 
 
 T05. 
 
 Lattuoe Salad. 
 
 1. Keep the lettuces, after washing and trim- 
 ming, in ice water till near dinner time. Shake the 
 water from them and give them time to drain upside 
 down. Dish the tender heart leaves only in shallow 
 bowls, and t^liced hard-b .iled eggs on top. 
 
 The lettuce though cold and fresh should be dry, 
 except for pieces of ice strewn over in warm weather. 
 The?e bowls are to be set on the dinner tables. 
 
 Tbe freshest eggs may look bad when turned blue 
 by too long bailing, but if is not certain that even 
 lorg boiling will eo discolor them if they be plunged 
 immediately in the coldest water. Between the 
 cooks, the pantrymen, the head waiter and the 
 second steward it happens that the eggs on lettuce 
 nearly always come out blue. 
 
 B"il eggs six minutes ; pour off the bot water im- 
 mediately and fill up with cold. 
 
204 
 
 THE AMEBIQAN COOK. 
 
 2. Cat lettuce in shreds like oold slaw, with ft 
 sharp knife, on a board kept for the purpose. Have 
 some chopped eggs ready on a plate and a cupful of 
 vinegar seasoned with pepper and salt in a pitcher. 
 
 Dish up only as called for, some lettuce in a deep 
 dish, the vinegar poured over, and eggs dredged on 
 top. 
 
 3, Cut the lettuce first in shreds and then across, 
 quite small. It will not do to chop it in a bowl as 
 that blackens it. 
 
 Have a thin salad dressing in a pitcher separate, 
 and a plate of *he smallest heart leaves of lettuce at 
 hand. Dish up as called for, the lettuce in the dish, 
 dressing poured all over it and two or three leaves 
 set in for garnish. 
 
 One^of the things that helps to lower the estima- 
 tion people have of hotel tables is the way they have 
 in some houses, where they take an interest in 
 nothing but calm stagnation, of making lettuce 
 salads hours before they are wanted and dishing 
 them black-looking, wilted and warm. 
 
 It ruins lettuce to let it lie in vinegar long. 
 
 766. Lettuee Sweet Salad. 
 
 6 or 8 heads of lettuce. 
 12 small spring onions. 
 
 1 cup of vinegar. 
 ^ cup of sugar. 
 
 2 sprigs of garden mint. 
 
 Cut the lettuce small ; slice in the white part of the 
 onions with very little of the green ; chop the mint. 
 Mix all. Serve cold. 
 
 Some people say lettuce should never be washed 
 as water spoils it, but be gathered fresh from the 
 garden and broken into the salad bowl. That will 
 do for the lady of a house, but will never do for ho- 
 tel work. Here is a story some centuries old of a 
 giant, that will tell why : 
 
 "The story requireth that we relate what hap- 
 pened unto six pilgrims, who came from Sebastian 
 near to Nantes ; and who for shelter that night, be- 
 ing afraid of the enemy, had hid themselves in the 
 garden upon the chicheling pease, among the cab- 
 bages and lettices. Gargantua, finding himself 
 somewhat dry, asked whether they could get any 
 lettice (0 make him a sallad ; and hearing that there 
 Y. ere the greatest and fairest in the country (for 
 they were as great as plum trees) he would' go 
 thither himself, and brought thence in his hand 
 what he thought good, and withal carried away the 
 six pilgrims, who were in so great fear, they did not 
 dare to speak nor cough. 
 
 **Wa Ling them, therefore, first at the fountain, 
 the pilgrims said one to another softly, 'What shall 
 we do ? we are almost drowned here amongst these 
 lettices, shall we speak ? but if we speak he will 
 
 kill us for spies ?' As they were thus deliberating 
 what to do, Gargantua put them with the lettice in- 
 to a platter of the house as large as the huge tun of 
 the Cistertians, which done, with oil, vinegar and 
 salt, he eat them up, to refresh himself a litle before 
 supper, and had already swallowed up five of the 
 pilgrims, the sixth being in the platter, t^^tally hid 
 under the lettice, except his stafi" that appeared, and 
 nothing else ; which Grangousier seeing, said to 
 Gargantua, 'I think that is the horn of a shell snail, 
 do not eat it." 'Why not V said Gargantua ; 'they 
 are good all this month,' which he no sooner said 
 but drawing up the staff, and therewith taking up 
 the pilgrim, he eat him very well, then drank a ter- 
 rible draught of excellent white-wine, and expected 
 supper to be brought up." 
 
 Nowadays we call those pilgrims insects. Moral : 
 wash your lettuce well and look between the leaves ; 
 likewise your curled endive, or chicory. 
 
 TOT, Lettuce Salad with Oil. 
 
 A six quart bowl of shred lettuce. 
 12 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 1 pint of vinegar. 
 
 1 tablespoonful of sugar. 
 
 ^ pint of olive oil. 
 
 Pepper and salt. 
 
 Chop the yolks and whites of the eggs separately, 
 and mix the whites with the lettuce. Pour the oil 
 over and stir up. Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar, 
 with the salt and pepper, and add them to the let- 
 tuce and toss over with a fork till well mixed. 
 Strew the chopped yolks on top. 
 
 768. 
 
 Endive Salads. 
 
 In all respects the same as lettuce. It is oftenest 
 used with lettuce, being more ornamental to "top 
 ofP' with. 
 
 709. 
 
 To Curl Celery. 
 
 It is only necessary to slit the tops evenly with a 
 penknife and set the celery in glasses of ice- water. 
 
 Leave enough of the green tops on for ornament. 
 Take two turns of twine round the upper part of the 
 stalks for a guide-mark. The tops when slit curl 
 outwards just as far down as the cuts extend and 
 these should be of uniform length. 
 
 "I am a great foe to dinners, and indeed to all 
 meals. 1 think when the good time comes we shall 
 give up eating in public, except perhaps fruit on a 
 green bank with music." 
 
 — Consuelo-Theodora — Lothair, 
 *'I know a bank where the wild thjme blows." 
 
 — ArieL 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 205 
 
 "I bring 
 A scrip with herbs and fruits supplied, 
 And water from the spring.'* 
 
 — Vtcar of Wakefield. 
 
 ll^O. 
 
 "Water-Oress. 
 
 Universally a favorite in great Britain, but 
 American cultivators complain that there is not 
 sufficient demand for it to justify them for their 
 trouble. It grows in running water, and is indig- 
 enous in many of our mountain streams. It is 
 used to serve with roast fowls instead of a sauce, 
 for garnishing, and, eaten with salt only, as a relish 
 at tea or supper. It should be carefully picked 
 over and trimmed of about half the stems that are 
 generally brought to market. 
 
 TTl. 
 
 Radishes. 
 
 Better for breakfast than for dinner, and may be 
 cut up to mix with early garden-cress in lettuce 
 salad. 
 
 77». 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 
 1. Serve them most of the time plain sliced with 
 only pounded ice strewn over. 
 
 2. Make a salad by mixing with the thin sliced 
 cucumbers a few slices of onions and pouring over 
 vinegar to cover, with pepper and salt. 
 
 8, Make a cucumber salad by pouring a salad 
 dressing over the cucumbers, and use sliced toma- 
 toes to garnish the dishes. 
 
 Let him carry home his leeks and shake his flanks 
 over his wool-beating ; he'll mend matters more 
 that way. The taxes that harm him most are his 
 heavy carcass and his idleness. 
 
 — Romola, 
 
 TT». 
 
 Onions. 
 
 Sliced onions in vinegar are as much in demand 
 as anything else in some places, however little the 
 green bunches may be patronized on the hotel table. 
 There is a great difference between the large white 
 Spanish onion which is mild and ionocent, and the 
 strong red-skinned sorts. All of them may be im- 
 proved by steeping the slices in ice-water and then 
 drying between two clean towels before putting in 
 vinegar or mixing with sliced tomatoes or cucum- 
 bers. 
 
 TT4, 
 
 Beets. 
 
 Are most acceptable sliced in vinegar and served 
 cold. Cooked of course till tender, though we find 
 French directions for putting beets in jars of 
 
 vinegar with carraway and coriander seeds, without 
 saying whether cooked or raw. Beets are used in 
 Poland, Hungary and thereabouts, fermented and 
 in many other ways that would seem very outlandish 
 and perhaps disgusting to Americans. 
 
 TT5, 
 
 Tomatoes. 
 
 1. Serve them ofienest plain sliced in shallow 
 bowls on the table either for breakfast or dinner, 
 with only broken ice laid on them. 
 
 2. Make a tomato salad by mixing in a small 
 proportion of sliced cucumbers and onions and 
 pouring over them vinegar, pepper and salt. Gar- 
 nish with leaves of heart lettuce. 
 
 3. Slice tomatoes in individual deep dishes and 
 pour a salad dressing over. 
 
 4. Tomatoes are liked by many people with a 
 dressing of sugar and vinegar, like the lettuce sweet 
 salad. 
 
 For there is a natural craving for something 
 herbaceous, green, and sour, and if debarred from 
 regular salads, from vinegar and sugar, people seek 
 such substitutes as nature furnishes. 
 
 "Bread itself was a delicacy seldom thought of, 
 because hard to be obtained, and milk, butter and 
 poultry were out of the question in this Scythian 
 camp. * * * ^t — the meal which 
 she had so sedulously arranged, and to which she 
 now added a few bunchesof cranberries, gathered 
 in an adjacent morass." 
 
 — Waverley. 
 
 "While Joe was gone back in the canoe for the 
 frying-pan, which had been left, we picked a couple 
 of quarts of tree-cranberries for sauce. This sauce 
 was very grateful to us who had been confined to 
 hard bread, pork and moose-meat. 
 
 — The Maine Woods. 
 "I may mention that rhubarb was cut in thin 
 slices and eaten with salt, quite raw. Melon seeds, 
 salted, were also very plentifuU" 
 
 — IVavels in Persia. 
 "American college girls are much addicted to eat- 
 ing unripe apples with salt." 
 
 — Medical Journal. 
 But now we have enough of salads. This is what 
 too much salad brings a man to : 
 
 "At last they found — his foragers for charms — 
 A little glassy-headed, hairless man. 
 Who lived alone in a great wild on grass ; 
 Read but one book, and ever reading, grew 
 So grated down and filed away with thought. 
 So lean his eyes were monstrous ; while the skin 
 Olung but to crate and basket, ribs and spine. 
 
 * * * * ' that old man 
 Went back to his old wild and lived on grass. 
 And vanished, and his book came down to me." 
 — Merlin and Vivim. 
 
J06 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 776. Mock Mayonaise. 
 
 A ctk who knows n Jhing but the best may 
 fare badly sometimes if he go to a restaurant where 
 he is expected to make the following and is unable 
 to meet the requirement: 
 
 Make the cooked paste precisely as if for cream 
 puffs (No. 296) using butter. Perhaps half of that 
 receipt will suflBce. Work in eggs the same way. 
 \\hen it is nearly soft enough begin and add a 
 little oil and a li'tle vinegar, then another whole 
 egg, a little mustard, mrre oil and vinegar, and so 
 on until it is like mayonaise. A large quantity cm 
 be made wi h but little expense for olive oil in that 
 way. This mock sauce is used to spread over the 
 top of a chicken or lobi-ter salad in many restaur- 
 ants that are called first class. 
 
 fowl, and only call it a galantine when it is orna- 
 mented. This is as it should be, for the word 
 galantine in from the same root as the French 
 gallantin, gallant, "a beau," "something pleasant to 
 look upon," ' a nobby fellow," as it is variously de 
 fined. 
 
 Many good things on the bill of fare are partly 
 thrown away for want of a popular understanding 
 of the names, hence we think the space devoted to 
 this question is not wasted, and now will try to ob- 
 serve the distinction between plain boned turkey 
 and turkey galantine. 
 
 The custom is growing in favor everywhere and 
 s particularly prevalent now in San Francisco of set- 
 ting a midday lunch instead of dinner and having 
 the dinner at 5 or 6 o'clock in the evening. 
 
 This lunch makes a demand fur good work in cold 
 dishes of all kinds, and gives encouragement for its 
 display that is never experienced under ths plan of 
 three hot meals a day. Tie various articles con- 
 sidered in this category of salads and cold dishes 
 have everyone of them a use for the midday cold 
 meal, they can be set out to the utmost advantage, 
 and become as important a part of the steward' h 
 and cook's resources as the entrees, roasts and game 
 for a hot dinner. 
 
 "Four-year-old mutton modestly disclaiming its 
 own me. its hj affecting the shape and assuming the 
 adjuncts of venison " 
 
 — Eugene Aram. 
 ♦' 'Does he say he is a cuisinierf because if he does 
 he's a quizzirC -yer ^ says Mr. VVeg." 
 
 — Pendennii. 
 
 Itl. 
 
 Galantines. 
 
 A galantine, strictly, is any kind of meat with 
 the bones taken out, but that is not the common un- 
 derstanding ; and it is not strictly obliged to be a 
 cold dish— that is according to dictionary definitions 
 of th9 word — bi:t yet the general understanding is 
 that it should be. In one of the royal menus re- 
 cen'ly passed io review through this column there 
 is a dish of galantines of quail with truflSes among 
 the entrees, and, although one has no means of 
 reaching a certainty on such a point, it is quite as 
 likely it was a hot dish of bonelsss qu'iils as a cold 
 one. The boned legs of fowls stuffed with a force- 
 meat are termed galantines by one of our authorities, 
 cold, however. 
 
 Whatever may have been the meaning a hundred 
 years ago it wou'd lo>k very ridiculous now to call 
 a rolled up fi let of veal or a boned ribs of beef 
 rolled up, a galantine, or a boned boar's head a 
 gilantine. The term is applied only to fowls of a 1 
 kinds andbi^ds. 
 
 Another unwritten distinction I find is made by 
 cooks — and I have met with a good many of all 
 sizes, and who never knew the drift of my cross- 
 questioning, and that is to call a bened fowl a boned 
 
 Doubtless there is some sort of responsibility at- 
 tached to this privilege of wide spread publicity 
 through the columns of a daily newspaper. It is 
 not quite the same as depositing matters snugly be- 
 tween book overs, never to be opened, never to be 
 seen, and no barm d ne. Perhaps it is my du y to 
 bring the little power much multiplied to the rescue 
 of the noble bird of Thanksgiving, the American 
 turkey, from the prevai ing mi>usage which makes 
 it undtr the name of boned turkey to serve but as 
 a distended lion's hide to c >ver the recreant meat of 
 a cilf, and this without, intent, of palming off a sham, 
 but timply because of wrong teaching. 
 
 Some two or three years ago it lay in my way to 
 remark in these columns that a boned fowl should 
 be stuffed with another boned fuwl, and I have 
 since been told that some old parties were as much 
 astonished thereat as were certain other old parties 
 when Oliver Twist asked for more. Still the world 
 moves. 
 
 As for the consumer's part no words are needed 
 to show him that when he asks for a plate of boned 
 turkey he should not receive for it a mess of iashed 
 veal in a thin-stretched turkey's skin. 
 
 As for the landlord or employer, who is most like- 
 ly to be looked npon as responsible fur the perpetra- 
 tion of a species of fraud too small evfn to kick 
 about, he knows nothing whatever about it, and m^y 
 even have wondered that his own plate of boned 
 turkey should seem so far from turkey and so near 
 Bologna sauspge. The fault is with the regular 
 cooks, and piimarily with the European teachers of 
 cookeiy from whom all our ho el a la* a are derived. 
 Were this a trick of the trade (but indeed there are 
 very few tricks in our trade) of advantage econom- 
 ically or otherwise, silence might be golden in 
 respect to it, but while our prolific Southern and 
 Western States turn off ^apultry cheaper during li 
 
THE AMERICAN COOB!. 
 
 807 
 
 large portion of the year than vea!, it must be 
 matter of gurprise that but few of our people know 
 what genuiae boned turkey is, for the reason that 
 the cooks ^ill push the poultry aside and take 
 trouble to use veal instead at a cost about a third 
 higher. This is Old-World routine. The cook does 
 as he learned of an elder cook and the older refers to 
 the books which direct to stuff boned turkeys, and 
 indeed almost everything of the kind with minced 
 veah Probably those teachers had good reasons of 
 expediency. Tuj'key may have been an expensive 
 luxury and had to be eked out. Possibly they 
 made genuine boned turkey for kings and such, and 
 thought veil good enough for people. At any rate 
 they had yfhite veal that might pass for chicken. 
 In any European city may be seen, or might have 
 been before Mr. Bergh'a time, butchers* carts 
 packed with dying calves lying on their backs, their 
 heads hanging over the edge, their throats half cut, 
 dripping blood over the cobble stones, making 
 white veal. Our butchers are less brutal and our 
 veal is less white. Some of our butchers are so 
 tender-hearted they will seldom kill a calf at all 
 till bis horns are well grown in the second year of 
 his age, and do what you will that sort of veal al- 
 ways refuses to look like chicken. We have to 
 change our ways with the changed times. Our 
 people are all able and wiiliog to pay for boned 
 turkey and they want it, and not beef sausage. 
 
 We will have another way of stuffing a boned 
 turkey besides the annexed, but this, to use the 
 words of a delighted club member, just recently, 
 * takes the cheese" — whatever that may mean. The 
 gentleman is a Britisher having millions in mines, 
 (can't get 'em out), but, thanks to the error of 
 French cookery he had never stuck his fork before 
 into so unmistakably genuine a galantine as this. 
 
 You are now able to supply to the hotel patronB 
 that long felt want, a turkey all breast. 
 
 Roll, or raiher double up carefully the smaller 
 turkey and place it inside the other, remembering 
 to turn it so that there will be found when the 
 galantine is cut a breast at each end. Bring the 
 two edges of the outside turkey together and sew it 
 up with cotton twine and a large needle. Butter a 
 cloth and roll the galantine up in it tightly and 
 with a good many wraps, and either tie or sew it se- 
 curely. Boil in soup stock with the turkey bones 
 added. 
 
 1T8. 
 
 Boned Turkey. 
 
 2 turkeys. 
 
 1 corned tongue, already cooked. 
 
 1 pound of dry salt pork. 
 
 8 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 1 cupful of aspic jelly. 
 
 Seasonings. 
 
 Take a large and a small turkey unopened, singe 
 and wayh and then bone them, cutting first down 
 the whole length of the back. When boned lay 
 them skin downwards on the table and season with 
 pepper and salt, or with spiced salt. Cut the cooked 
 red tongue and the fat unsmoked bacon into strips 
 penc.l size and lay them altercating on the turkey 
 meat, lengthwise of the fowl, cutting gashes in the 
 thickest parts to receive them evenly. Cut the 
 yolks of tho eggs in quarters and dispose them 
 evenly am ,ng the s'rips, then chop the jelly and 
 strew it over. 
 
 779. Boning a Turkey. 
 
 Some wonders never do cease. The same con- 
 jurer's trick of the speaking head which Cervantes 
 says so deeply impressed poor Don Quixote still 
 astonishes and mystifies some portion of the public 
 at the wizard's show, and our wicked bu'chers still 
 find some customers can be set strangely pondering 
 when they are told that hotel cooks can take all the 
 bones out of a turkey without ever cutting the skin, 
 as if it were a feat like drawing a large iron ring 
 through the neck of a vial. There was no dfficulty 
 in making the egg stand on end when Columbus 
 had damaged the shell a little, and you can get at 
 the inwardness of a turkey quite easily after laying 
 the skin of the back open. Cut close to the bone 
 with a sharp-pointed knife till the hip joints and 
 wingjoints are reached and cut partially around, 
 then with the heavy handle end of a carving knife chop 
 through those joints, and going a little further, 
 loosening all along, the whole backbone portion can 
 presently be pulled out forcibly, leaving the limbs 
 and breast to be boned separately. The wings and 
 drumsticks have only to be boned part way, as the 
 meat is tucked into the body ; the rest may be 
 chopped off. While of course neat work is better 
 than slovenly it does not quite spoil the job if the 
 skin does get an unkind cut sometimes ; the very 
 top of the breast bone is the place requiring the 
 most care ; better cut into the bone a little than 
 risk a perforation where it will show so plainly on 
 the galantine. 
 
 As the turkey is to be pressed in the cloth after 
 cooking there should be no bulging ends or seams in 
 the way to leave their mark. 
 
 Y80. 
 
 Boiling and Pressing the Galantine. 
 
 The largest and plumpest turkeys are natura'l) 
 chosen for boning, especially by those who think 
 boning difficult, but such turkeys are nearly always 
 old and disappointment will be the result if they 
 have not time enough allowed for boiling. Five 
 hours is little enough for a large turkey stuffed as 
 above, though two hours will be enough for a young 
 one. 
 
208 
 
 THE AMEBIOAN COOK. 
 
 Th 7 have a nice letter press in the office and 
 there is a clothes press in the housekeeper's room 
 and another in the laundry, and a cider press in the 
 milk house, that is only used once a year, but I 
 don't thin it you have in the kitclen a press at all for 
 galantines or pressed beef or pigs' heads or head 
 cheese, a press wih assorted moulds and shapes and 
 a metal tray to ca^ch the overflow. 
 
 Let the boned turkey when done remain in the 
 liquor it was boiled in till cool enough to be handled, 
 then place it betweea two large platters with a fifty 
 pound etone or sack of flour on the top. 
 
 But if it is to be incised in jelly and decorated 
 press it into a deep mould or pan of some sort. 
 
 The long and narrow sinks of the steam chest, 
 with their flaring sides, are suitable and make a 
 handsome galantine, but common pans may answer 
 if you have not special moulds. It is only the poor 
 workman that finds fault with his tools. Many of 
 the pretty but useless articles of the French menu 
 may be as well dispensed with but boned turkey is 
 (to be) an American national dish, more than the 
 hunting beef or spiced round to the Old Eng ish 
 squire, or than the boar's head to the Saxon thane 
 cr Norman earl ; substantial, always welcome and 
 when good highly appreciated, and therefore w orthy 
 of effort. 
 
 781. ~ 
 
 Boned Turkey in Aspic Jelly. 
 
 Warm the mould or shape and take out the 
 pressed turkey. Remove the cloth, draw out the 
 thread, wipe ofi" all adhering jelly and fat with a 
 towel dipped in hot water and shave off" any dis- 
 colored or ragged portions. With a vegetable cutler 
 8'amp out half a dozen small shapes from a th ck 
 sliced green pickle and place them on the boitom of 
 the same mould, well washed and dried, that the 
 turkey was pressed in, and place the turkey resting 
 on them. This leaves a space under and around for 
 a coating of aspic jelly to be poured in, and when 
 quite cold and set the boned turkey can be turned 
 out again on to its dish, thinly but evenly encased 
 in clear jelly, which may be sliced and served with 
 it. 
 
 T88. 
 
 To be used only to slice as cold meat the turkey 
 need only have two or three coats of fresh butter 
 melted and applied with a brush, the turkey being 
 very cold. Ornaments of jelly, or of chopped jelly 
 forced through a tube can still be added if desired in 
 the individual dishes. 
 
 Your boned turkey, whether incased in jelly or 
 not, will have a h'lndsomer appearance to the con- 
 sumers inside than outside, and when sent to table 
 whole should always on some excuse or other be cut 
 
 first, the halves or even the quarters of a turkey 
 that is about all white meat can be edged and 
 finished with decorations to look as well and in- 
 finitely more appetising than any over-done "belle- 
 vue" that is ever exhibited. 
 
 We have spoken of the trifling divergence of com- 
 mon usage from the strict definition of galantine, 
 and have now to notice the same in regard to the 
 description a la bellevue or en bellevue. It is ordi- 
 narily understood by cooks and bi I rf fare writers 
 to mean that the article is incased in jelly and orna- 
 mented. But it is applied by old authorities to sev- 
 eral other sorts of decoration besides aspic jelly, 
 even to hot dishes. The word means literally a pret- 
 ty eight. The modern usage is to drop bellevue 
 altogether and just say the galantine is decorated 
 (decoree.) 
 
 When well done a something en bellevue is un. 
 questionably a very handsome object ; the complaint 
 is that a party may go to a ball supper and go away 
 from it hungry for all the good a turkey done that 
 way will do in the way of something to eat. It 
 looks too pretty to cut — the jelly casing, not the 
 turkey, v\hich indeed is not even seen — and besides 
 is not suggestive of anything to eat at all. These 
 things might better be made of cabinet work trans- 
 parent glue and varnish and save the cook his 
 wasted pains. 
 
 783. 
 Pyramid of Boned Fowls, Decorated. 
 
 Get the tinner to make three galantine moulds of 
 difi'erecit sizes flaring or tapering so that piled on 
 each other upside down they will form a pyramid. 
 The largest may hold six quarts, the next four, the 
 smallest two quarts. 
 
 The long and narrow shape almost like a brick, 
 with the edges sharp looks as well as any, though 
 they may be six or eight-sided if preferred. Pre- 
 pare three boned and pressed fowls to correspond 
 with the moulds, leaving plenty of room for the 
 jelly. 
 
 Prepare six quarts of aspic jelly clarified a second 
 time and very firm. 
 
 Prepare a large sheet of yellow custard made of 
 sixteen yolks of eggs mixed with over half a cupful 
 of clear broth and steamed in a six-quart milk pan 
 set over a boiler — the pan to be buttered before the 
 custard is poured in, but very slightly. 
 
 Also prepare a similar sheet of white custard 
 made of the whites of the eggd in the eame way. 
 
 These custards when ccld are to be loosened 
 round the edges and shaken out onto a slab, to be 
 stamped out in fancy shapes, spear heads, leaves, 
 stars, crescents, etc. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 To mix with these there may be also fancy shapes 
 cut from slices of raw beets, carrots and turnips, or 
 some kinds of pickles, such as mangoes at d large 
 peppers, all well freed f.om moisture. The patterns 
 have to be graded in si/e to correspond with the 
 different sized moulds 
 
 Set each mould in a pan of broken ice, water and 
 salt. Pour in some melted jelly and on the jelly as 
 it coats the sides cnstruct the pattern desired, and 
 when well set pour over another coat of jelly to se- 
 cure it in its place. Finish perfectly even with the 
 tops of the moulds with a bold pattern of spades or 
 spear heads in close order, cut from some firm mate- 
 ria\ to add strength to the foundation edge. 
 
 When the decoration is completed and well set 
 place the boned fowls inside and fill the moulds 
 around them with clear jelly so nearly cold as not to 
 endanger melting the patterns from the sides. 
 
 Observe that the boned fowls must be cut deep 
 enough to rest on the bottom of the mould and 
 reach quite even with the top, as the jelly will not 
 bear any pressure and the blocks of meat must rest 
 upon each other when built up. 
 
 , After building up these decorated galantines on a 
 dish on a raised stand (sur socle) ornament with 
 blocks and mou' dings of aspic jelly, and, perhaps, 
 if they be not regarded cut of fashion, with orna- 
 mental silver skewers passed through wreaths of 
 wax flowers. 
 
 '* It is csmaaome which constitutes the real merit 
 of good soups, gives meat its reddish ticge, forms 
 the crisp brown on roasts, and which yields a flivor 
 to venison and game. This explains, by the way, 
 why y.)ur real connoisseur has always, in poultry, 
 preferred the inner thigh ; his taste had instinctive- 
 ly anticipated science." 
 
 — Oastronomie. 
 
 " *Our Prior loves exceedingly the white of a ca- 
 pon.* 'In that,' s!iid Gymnast, 'he doth not re- 
 semble the foxes ; for of the capons, hens, and pul- 
 lets which they carry away they never eat the white. 
 The leg of the leveret is good for those that have the 
 gout.' " 
 
 — French Classic. 
 
 T85. 
 
 Galantine Stuflang— Another "Way. 
 
 There is, to say the least, nothing better or more 
 satisfactory of its kind than this. For one medium 
 turkey — enough sliced for 25 plates — make 3 pounds 
 of forcemeat of another turkey or of chicken as fol- 
 lows: 
 
 2 full grown fowls boiled tender. 
 
 6 ounces of fat ealt pork. 
 
 6 ounces of butter. 
 
 6 ounces of white bread crumbs. 
 
 2 raw eggs. 
 
 8 hard-boiled eggs. 
 
 ^ pint of broth or stock. 
 
 1 lemon. 
 
 Salt and pepper. 
 
 Take the dark meat of the fowls, cut it in very 
 small dice and keep it separate. Take off the white 
 meat, chop fine and then pound it to a sort of paste. 
 Throw in the fat pork minced, the feaspoonful of 
 pepper and salt and the bread crumbs and mix to- 
 gether, and soften the butter and stir in. Mix the 
 two raw eggs with the cup of broth and add the 
 juice of the lemon, and with this mixture moisten 
 the forcemeat. It is now ready for use. 
 
 Lay the boned turkey out flat and partly slice 
 some of the meat from the thick parts and lap them 
 over the thin, that the galantine may make even - 
 appearing slioes and not seem in some parts all 
 stuffing. Season with a teaspoonful of aromatic or 
 spiced salt, if you keep that preparation on hand, 
 otherwise dredge with pepper and salt ; then strew 
 over the turkey about half the dark meat mince, ana 
 over that spread half the white forcemeat. Take 
 the yolks of the hard-boiled eggs, cut them in 
 quarters and scatter some over the forcemeat, then 
 the rest of theminced dark meat, then the remain- 
 ing forcemeat and egg yolks. 
 
 Bring up the two edges of the boned turkey over 
 this stuffing and sew it securely. Then wrap, boil 
 3 hours, and press it as already detailed for galan- 
 tines. 
 
 If you use truffles or fresh grown mushrooms (not 
 canned) they come in place in the white chicken 
 forcemeat above instead of the egg yolks. The 
 whites of the eggs look very well in all these galan- 
 tines and may sometimes be added for variation. 
 
 '786. Sliced Galantine in Aspic 
 
 Coat the sides of any sort of handsome mould — a 
 fluted cake moulder jelly mould is as good as any — 
 with clear jelly, according to the extended direc- 
 tions for a pyramid already given ; line it with 
 handsome slices of turkey or chicken galantine, on© 
 slice slightly overlapping the other ; in the center 
 drop a piece of the galantine not sliced, or a boned 
 bird, fill up with jelly, and when perfectly cold and 
 set turn it out onto its dish and decorate for the 
 table. 
 
 Y8t. 
 
 Boned Chicken. 
 
 GALANTINE DE POULARDE. 
 
 Malje in the same ways as boned turkey. 
 
210 
 
 THE AMEBIOAN COOK. 
 
 "Her lovely name is Blanche. The veil of t^e 
 maiden is white ; the wreath of roses which she 
 wears is white. I determined that my dinner 
 sbould be as spotless as the snow, as white as her 
 own tint— and confectioned with the most fragrant 
 cream and almonds." 
 
 —Mirobolant. — Fendenni&, 
 
 T88. 
 
 White Galantine. 
 
 CHICKEN A LA BELLEVUB. 
 
 Fill a boned turkey or chicken with white chicken 
 forcemeat of the kind last directed for turkey. If 
 wished to be thoroughly white substitute for the egg 
 yolks and dark meat some of the whites of eggs 
 minced, add a f^w blanched almonds and pistachio 
 nuts, a pinch of ground mace, white pepper and 
 the juice of another lemon. Do the galantine up in 
 roundish or cushion shape, and press after boiling 
 between two dishes. 
 
 To coat it over for ornament make three pints of 
 white jelly, with thin cream and two ounces of 
 gelatine, precisely like blanc-mange, but seasoned 
 with salt and a handful of parsley scalded in it in- 
 stead of sugar. The cream will curdle if allowed to 
 quite boil with the gelatine in it. Strain the white 
 jelly, stir it in a pan set in ice-water, and when it 
 is just about to set pour it evenly over the galantine, 
 which should be in the refridgerator and very cold. 
 
 While it is setting firm prcp^^re a sheet of white 
 of egg custard as directed for the pyramid of boned 
 turkeys, and s amp out a number of lenf and flower 
 shapes. Lift the galantine on to its dish and 
 decorate the smoath white surface and also the 
 edge of the dish. A cord of the white jelly 
 chopped and forced through a lady finger tube may 
 be placed as a border on the dish to carry a wreath 
 of artificial leaves, etc. 
 
 789. "" 
 
 Spiced Salt for Turkey and Chicken. 
 
 Tike half an ounce each of the following — they 
 can generally be bought ready ground, but if not, 
 must be dried, pounded and sifted : 
 
 Nutmegs. 
 
 Hace. 
 
 Thym*?. 
 
 Marjoram. 
 
 Basil — and one ounce each of 
 
 Cloves. 
 
 Pepper — and a quarter ounce of 
 
 Bay leaves — and mix them with 
 
 4 pounds of fine salt. 
 
 It is not recommended to persons making a galan- 
 tine only occasionally to esperiment with spice 
 flavors, which after ail may not be appreciated as 
 well as the natural flavor of the fowl, yet where 
 such cold dishes appear constantly and where 
 everything is highly seasoned tjje spices become as 
 
 necessary to the cook as the common sausage season- 
 ings to the butcher. The following is the French 
 pork-butcher's compound : 
 
 700. 
 
 Aromatic Salt for Boned Goose, Boar's 
 Head, Etc. 
 
 Take half an ounce each of the following— all 
 ground and sifted : 
 
 Thyme. 
 
 Marjoram. 
 
 Mace. 
 
 Cloves. 
 
 Nutmegs. 
 
 Bay leaves — and a quarter ounce of 
 
 Rosemary — and one ounce of 
 
 White pepper — and mix with 
 
 4 pounds of fine salt. 
 
 The diflference of the two mixtures is in the sage 
 and rosemary. The latter is very aromatic with a 
 taste like a mixtr.re of sage and pine leaves It 
 seems to have been a great favorite and had many 
 uses in olden times. "Nay, the boar hath rosemaries 
 and bay." 
 
 **Then the ale, and the cider with rosemary in the 
 bowl were incomparable potations." 
 
 — Buhoer, 
 "Weave me a garland of holly, 
 Rosemary, laurel and bays ; 
 Gravity's nothing but folly 
 Till after the Christmas days." 
 
 ^Old Song. 
 
 701. Galantine of Goose or Duck. 
 
 For the filling of one large goose take : 
 
 2 ducks or fowls boiled tender. 
 12 ounces of white bread crumbs. 
 
 1 small onion. 
 
 4 hard boiled eggs. 
 
 3 raw eggs. 
 
 ^ cupful of melted goose fat. 
 1 cupful of meat jelly or aspic. 
 
 4 or 5 teaspoonfuls of the aromatic salt, or, pep- 
 per, salt and sage. 
 
 Strip the meat from the ducks or chickens when 
 co:d — there should be 1 J p^^unds of it — cut it in very 
 small dice as if for salad, likewise the boiled eggs 
 and onion and bread crumbs. Mix alf, moisten 
 with the raw eggs and g ose fat or butter. Fill the 
 boned goose, or two or three ducks with the force- 
 meat, strew the jelly over, and proceed as for turkey 
 galantines. The jelly remains in the galantines 
 and sets richly amongst the forcemeat. 
 
 The above is quite an ornamental mixture, sliced 
 cold, and savory. Pork sausage "^ith some bread 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 211 
 
 crumbs, ftrips of pork and red tangue mascs aa- 
 other good filling. 
 
 It takes from 2 to 3 hours time to bone and pre- 
 pare a gilantine for the boiler, (hat is including the 
 forcemeat or godiveau it is stuffed with, but it takes 
 but li;tle more time to prepare two or three than one 
 when the operations are once under way. 
 
 "Soon af er our walk over the farm, we sat down 
 to a table, which was abundantly supplied. There 
 was a euperb joint of corned beef, a stewed goose, 
 and a magjificeut haunch of mutton, with vegeta- 
 bles of all kinds, and at each end of the table two 
 huge jugs of excellent cider, of which I never tired 
 drinking." 
 
 — llie Gar^trcnomcr in Connecticut, 
 
 It is nothing, or next to nothing, to make a salade 
 a la Russe or Muscovite or to put up a galantine de 
 perdreaux a la royale. Suppose not many can, not 
 many want them and it comes out even. But there 
 are some things that all hotel and eating-house 
 keepers must do or have done right that are quite 
 difficult — gelting the management of that heaviest 
 item, the butcher meats, down to a fine point, for 
 instance. The trying time of the man of the "back 
 part of the house" does not come of the fine dishes, 
 the uncommon things, the fresh delicacies which 
 money will procure in the markets ; the grand 
 difficulty which so few can steadily face and over- 
 come is made up of a lot of small ones too ridiculous 
 almost to specify — the difficulty of getting the coffee 
 made always alike and sent in always hot and yet 
 not spoiled by boiling ; of making somebody attend 
 to their du'y of keeping warm cups and pla es ; of 
 getting cooks to make delicate fried mush and con- 
 scientious oatmeal porridge and clean-looking fresh 
 fried potatoes. 
 
 . We try to keep to a rule in these writings of not un- 
 derrating or passing by as useless anything that we 
 have not tried, sifted, proved, weighed and 
 measured and arrived at the worth of, and in that 
 way earn the right to repeat again and again, there 
 are needed fifty thousand cooks (or call them what 
 you will) who will take interest enough to make the 
 common unconsidered trifles well, for every one 
 that is wanted to mQ,\Q pieces monties and monstrosi- 
 ties in wax and tallow. 
 
 The sort of cooks to cultivate, who are always 
 wanted and for whom a little more wages than the 
 ordinary is no objection with hotel keepers are those 
 who will fry egg'? clean, white and appetizing, not 
 black and smoked at the edges ; who can make 
 batter-cakes as good without eggs as the common 
 run can with half a dollar' s worth mixed in ; who 
 can make common rolls so good they can not be 
 surpassed and take pride enough to rise half an 
 hour earlier to do so ,• cooks who will bake pies well 
 
 done on the bottom. And what profit is it to the 
 hotel-keeper to have in the larder &jambon a la 
 gelee a la Francaise, which the guests m^y or may 
 not recognize and may or may not be afraid to call 
 for, if the corned beef is put on to cook only an 
 hour or two before dishing-up time, is tough and 
 rejected for dinner, sliced, rejected and thrown 
 away after supper ? 
 
 Thf se minor obstacles to a perfect table are nevei' 
 quite overcome, but when I hear a hotel uncom - 
 moj.ly well spoken of in this respect I am certain 
 that a large measure of success has been attained, 
 and I wonder then if there is not some one in the 
 back part of that house looking thin-faced and 
 tired ? 
 
 703. Corned Beef Brine. 
 
 6 gallons of water (about 3 pailfuls.) 
 
 6 or 8 ounces of saltpetre — the large crystals kind. 
 
 1 pint of molasses or sugar. 
 10 pounds of salt. 
 
 Set the water on the range in a boiler with the 
 saltpetre in it to dissolve first, because sometimes 
 when the brine is so strong with salt as to be what 
 is called a saturated solution the saltpetre cannot 
 melt in it but remains inoperative at the bottom. 
 Then put in the molasses and the salt, let come to a 
 boil and skim it. Pour into a clean ten-gallon keg. 
 
 Two kegs of such brine are necessary to have for 
 beef alone. It will keep good one or two months 
 according to weather, but depending on how it is 
 used. One is for dropping the course pieces of beef 
 in from day to day as they are culled from the 
 roasts and loins, the other is to change them over to 
 when half corned and to use out of. But tongues 
 and pork if pickled in the same kegs with the beef 
 will spoil the brine very quickly. There ought to 
 be other and smaller vessels of brine to receive 
 them. 
 
 703. 
 
 Corned beef is an American "stand-by," a per-- 
 manent favorite, and too much care can not be taken 
 to have it good. People tire of fish, of poultry, 
 game and ham, but not of roast beef nor corned 
 beef, but whenever the hotel has to sell off its 
 corned beef to get rid of it at a nominal price and 
 buy the canned corned beef of the packing hous€8 
 because it is better it is tolerably certain there is a 
 screw loose, and somebody is remiss in their duty ot 
 lacking in skill and attention. 
 
 The packing house corned beef is good because it 
 is made with good brine like that of the foregoing 
 receipt, and because it is cooked almost to the soft- 
 ness of jelly. It is too soft however to be used hot. 
 It generally has just the right pink color, neither too 
 red like raw meat nor too colorless like boiled fresh 
 beef, to make it look attractive on the table ; this 
 exact point can always be maintained by forethought 
 
812 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 and regard to the temperature of the brine. Six 
 ouQces of saltpetre will mike the beef as red if kept 
 at summer heat as eight ouuces or more in cold 
 weather. It takes about a week to corn beef suf- 
 ficiently to begin using it. 
 
 T94. 
 
 l*reparing the Beef for Ooming. 
 
 Nothing that is done for meat gives a better re- 
 tarn for the time expended than attention to this 
 point. 
 
 When you have sawn oflF the brisket ends of the 
 rib roasts and taken off the skirt or flank from the 
 long loins take out the bones — you need them in the 
 stock- boiler — and roll up the boneless meat to about 
 the size of a wrist in diameter and of any convenient 
 lengths, and bind these rolls tightly with cotton 
 twine. They are generally finely streaked with 
 lean and fat and when corned right color will slice 
 cold into the very handsomest dishes of cold meat 
 that can be set on a table, and are equally good in 
 their way for hot corned beef on cabbage. 
 
 If time allows it is best to shave the thick outer 
 skin from such pieces of beef before rolling. Some 
 lean and tough pieces such as come from the outside 
 cut of the round, from the shoulder and neck can 
 be cut in thick steaks, quite large, thin steaks of 
 fat from some other pirt laid on and both roiled up 
 together, these as well as fragmentary pieces are 
 best used in the form of pressed corned beef. Throw 
 the pieces when prepared into the brine, place a 
 barrel head or board on top and a large stone to 
 keep the beef under. Cover the keg with a cloth to 
 keep flies out and keep in a cold place. 
 
 Hundreds and thousands of pounds of meat are 
 spoiled in hotels and thrown away for want of de- 
 cision in those who have to manage it, or, perhaps, 
 for want of definite knowledge of what use each 
 particular portion mu-t be put to sooner or later. 
 The choicest close-trimmed joints of meat that can 
 be purchased have some portion that is tough and 
 hardly eatable with the ordinary five-minutes 
 cooking, but even the worst can be made tender if 
 cooked long enough in some suitable way — hence 
 the use of more ways than one in cookery, braising, 
 stewing, potting, smothering, etc. 
 
 It is the expedient of ignorance and inefficiency 
 to get the rough and tough off their hands by send- 
 ing it to table as roast or steak, (we are speaking of 
 good hotel tables, of course), it is gone, to be sure, 
 but will mostly be wasted just the same and some- 
 body dissatisfied will eat something else. It is 
 useless to hang a poor piece of beef on a hook ''for 
 the present" hoping in some indistinct way that 
 something will turn up so that you will want just 
 such a piece of meat as that. The meat you hesitate 
 about in warm weather is lost. It is the cook's 
 business to know exactly what use every ounce can 
 be put to. 
 
 The minute the meat comes from the butcher's, if 
 possible, the portions that must be either salted or 
 thrown away sooner or later should be taken off and 
 put in the brine barrel, and if that can be kept in 
 the ice house there need not be a pound lost even in 
 the hottest season 
 
 T95. Boiling Corned Beef. 
 
 Make it a rule of the day's work, which very 
 soon will become a habit, to set on the salt meat 
 boiler the first thing in the morning — say, at 6 
 o'clock — and put in the corned beef at once. Fresh 
 meats with all their juices in them should be 
 dropped into boiling water, which immediately 
 cooking the outside prevents them from ooxiog out 
 into the water, but it is different with salt meats ; 
 they have had their moisture withdrawn by the brine 
 and are c mparaively dry and should be dropped 
 into cold water in the boiler. It is supposed the 
 salt in them draws in the water till it reaches cook- 
 ing heat and closes the outside. Corned beef treat- 
 ed so cuts moist and full of juices. 
 
 Make it a rule that corned beef shall boil 5 hours. 
 Any late pieces or top pieces not thoroughly c ^oked 
 should be allowed to continue boiling during din- 
 ner, for corned beef recof^ked next day to make it 
 tenderer is never worth much — looks washed out 
 and is flavorless. 
 
 796. • 
 
 Of all the beef bought for hotel tables only a 
 third of the original weight arrives at the point of 
 readiaess to place on the guest's plate ; only a 
 fourth of the oiiginal weight actually reaches the 
 table; probably only half of that, or one eighth of the 
 raw weight is actually eaten ; so that for one hun- 
 dred pounds of beef that really becomes sustenance 
 to the hotel boarder eight hundred pounds of raw 
 beef must be purchased. 
 
 One-third of the raw weight is bone ; one-third 
 more is fat, skin, gristle, suet, discolorations, blood 
 stains, roughness and some scraps wasted in cutting; 
 the remaining one-third is clear meat in steaks and 
 trimmed roasts. 
 
 This one-third of clear meat loses at least a 
 quarter of its weight in cooking, and if fat will lose 
 a third, or even half. Of roast beef on the carving 
 stand, after all these preceding losses, there is lost 
 probably a fourth of the weight it has on leaving 
 the fire. This weight is lost through bad carving, 
 neglecting to clean the bones, gouging out choicer 
 cuts for pet people and wasting much more, and 
 through the floW of gravy and drying out by the 
 heat, and finally by what is left over of the roasts 
 not large enough or good enough to be used again. 
 A pair of chickens that weigh 4^ pounds in market 
 will yield only IJ pounds of nett meat after cooking. 
 A 14 pound turkey raw, with enough stuffing, pork, 
 eggs, etc., to make up a total of 20 pounda original 
 
THE AMEBICA^ COOK. 
 
 218 
 
 weight will only turn out a 10 pound galantine after 
 cooking. 
 
 If the beef costs only 8 cents per pound by the 
 entire carcass, that which the hotel-keepers buy and 
 the waiters carry in to the guests on the individual 
 dishes will have cost in the neighborhood of 75 cents 
 per pound, and what is actually eaten by the guest 
 will have cost somebody about a dollar a pound, 
 for some is left on the dishes entire and much more 
 pulled about on the plates, culled over, hacked and 
 left. It is true there is one oflFset to all this — how- 
 ever much more a hungry laboring man with only 
 one dish might eat, the amount of any one kind of 
 meat consumed by hotel boarders does not in an 
 average way exceed two ounces for each person. 
 But the proportion of waste is only the more enor- 
 mous for that fact. 
 
 It would require a volume to discuss the matters 
 just specified in all their bearings, but whosever 
 business it may be it is not ours; we have enough 
 to do with our cooking. It is amon^the purposes 
 and expedients of high intelligent cookery to lessen 
 some of the great washes of the raw material and 
 lead people away from clamoring for the very con- 
 densed essence of all that is dear and train their 
 taste to the appreciation of made dishes that are 
 more the products of skill than of cost, to the end 
 that the price of living may be cheapened, and two 
 persons may live well where one would starve at 
 the present rate of reckless prodigality. It is ac- 
 cepted as a truth, while nobody understands, that 
 French cookery is essentially economical, and yet 
 those who think they try it never find it so, but 
 quite the contrary. It is those who are supposed 
 to practice it that are the wasters. 
 
 The art and science is as high and worthy as any 
 other, but the supposed followers are degenerate 
 and unworthy. 
 
 Good cookery — call it French or what you will — 
 consists, for example, in taking the bones that 
 constitute one-third of the weight of the beef as the 
 hotel man buys it, and extracting all they will 
 yield by boiling to make rich soups, and not only 
 soups but stock to use in place of water to make a 
 hundred common articles savory and nutritious, 
 and in cooking the so-called rough pieces so well 
 that they will be in greater demand than even the 
 "choice cuts" of beef. 
 
 •yoi. 
 
 Pressed Corned Beef. 
 
 There is some advantage in merely pressing the 
 large pieces after boiling, as it makes them firmer 
 to slice, and some never go any farther. The 
 streaked rolls may be laid side by side and pressed 
 to square or oval form. But pressed corned beef is 
 generally expected to be something different from 
 that. 
 
 After boiling the beef 5 hours take it from th« 
 liquor, cut in pieces about as large as eggs and sim- 
 mer it about 2 hours more, using for this second 
 boiling some fresh soup stock or chicken broth, just 
 enough to fairly cover it, and rich enough to bejel^,» 
 when cold. Season with a little pepper. 
 
 Turn it out into the pan, tin pail or mould it is te 
 be pressed in, the liquor with it, push a strainer 
 down into it and take oflf the fat that rises in the 
 strainer. Place a plate or lid and a weight on t6> 
 and set in a cold place. 
 
 It is not best to drain pressed corned beef of the 
 jelly completely. In making the finest and costliest 
 pates de cailles, or of foies gras with trufiles, trouble 
 is taken when the baking is about finished to in- 
 troduce aspic jelly through an aperture left in the 
 top for the purpose and pressed beef need not be 
 made dryer and harder because it is a cheaper ar- 
 ticle. Let the jelly be firm enough not to become 
 soft on the table. 
 
 T98. Pressed Beef in Aspic Jelly. 
 
 1. Cut the handsomest streaked rolls of cooked 
 corned beef in slices, lay them on large platters, 
 pour over enough clear melted aspic jelly to cover. 
 When cold and set cut out the slices of beef and 
 jelly with a tin cutter, place on the dish they are 
 to be served in and garnish with parsley, pickles 
 and beets. 
 
 2. Cut the cooked corned beef into dice quite 
 small, simmer^for an.hour or two more in broth or 
 sfock strong enough to become jelly when cold. 
 Then dip the meat into bright gem pans of some or- 
 namental shape, in which you have first strewn 
 some leavea of parsley. Set away to get cold, 
 without pressure. When set firm take these in- 
 dividual pains de boBuf from the moulds. Put at the 
 bottom of each mould a slice of a pickle stamped in 
 star shape and then return the cakes of beef to their 
 places. Pour jelly in the thin space between the 
 meat and the mould. Dish bottom side up and 
 decorate. 
 
 •«Cut and come again," it seems, has always been 
 the motto of the English and Irish hunting squires 
 when setting their boiled rounds of beef on the table 
 — a free lunch for everybody. 
 
 TOO. Cold Boiled Round of Beef. 
 
 Corn a whole round of beef in the corned beef 
 brine, letting it remain from 10 to 14 days. Wash 
 it, take out the bone from the center Out S'^me 
 strips of unsmoked fat bacon as thick as a little 
 finger and lard the beef with them, maVing incisions 
 with a carving knife and drawing in the strips with 
 a looped string attached to a long skewer. For the 
 
214 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 cavitj in the middle whence the bone was taken 
 roll up a th'n slice of fat inclosing some chopped 
 and seasoned beef. Roll the round up tightly in a 
 cloth — such as a clean flour sack — and sew it. Boil 
 about 7 hours. 
 
 Pre»8 it when done, without removing the cloth it 
 is wrapped in, into good shape, either between two 
 sections of a sugar trough, two chopping bowls, a 
 dairymaid's pail or an old oaken bucket. When 
 cold remove the cloth, trim and place on a large 
 cfish. 
 
 It is just^necessary to mention that the larding 
 with frtt bacon is not essential, but is only an im- 
 provement for the tough side of the round, and to 
 the general appearance ; and that such beef rounds 
 have been boiled in home-brewed ale. 
 
 800. Cold Spiced Round of Beef. 
 
 The same in general as the preceding but the meat 
 first pickled in a spiced brine. 
 
 801. Pickle for Spiced Beef. 
 
 3 gallons of water, 
 3 ounces of saltpetre. 
 
 3 pounds of salt. 
 
 8 ounces of brown sugar. 
 
 4 ounces of bruised black pepper corns, 
 
 4 ounces of mixed spices — allspice, cloves and 
 mace. 
 
 8 bay leaves. 
 
 Tie the spices, pepper an^ bay leaves loosely in a 
 cotton cloth and throw them into the ten-gallon keg. 
 Make the brine as directed for corned beef and pour 
 it hot upon the spices. 
 
 The addition of half a head of girlie, or an ounce 
 of coriander seeds, or one or two onions, or 
 aromatic garden herbs can be made to the spiced 
 pickle above at option. Hotel cooking is the cos- 
 mopolitan occupation and what may be offensive to 
 one set of people often changes to the one thing 
 most essential for another. The coriander seed ad- 
 dition is, however, generally acceptable. 
 
 Spiced sheep's tongues, calves' and pigs* feet and 
 other c fid meats can be pickled as well as beef in 
 the spiced brine — a method much surer, safer and 
 better for the U9ual haste of hotel work than dry 
 salting or pickling, which requires daily attention, 
 turning and rubbing — and doesn't get it? 
 
 801a. Cold Spiced Beef Rolls. 
 
 Lay the solid lean pieces of the round of beef 
 open in steaks, and on top of them lay thin sheets 
 of fat salt pork. Roll up, tie, and keep in the spiced 
 pickle two weeks. 
 
 When to be cooked open the rolls, wash in cold 
 water, spread over with parsley leaves plentifully, 
 roll up again and tie. Place them in a saucepan 
 and half fill with good soup stocK. Cover to keep 
 the steam in either with buttered paper and the lid 
 or with a lid of flour-and-water paste and keep the 
 rolls stewiog about 5 hours. Cool in the same 
 liquor ; press like corned beef; slice cold. 
 
 By way of excuse for frequent quotations from 
 Sir Edward Bulwer Ly^tou's first novel, Pelham, we 
 will laisser nos moutons long enough to remark that 
 the Lord Guloseton of that novel is none other than 
 Brillat-Savarin, author ^Gmtronomy and Gastron- 
 omers^ and almost the only writer of note on the 
 subject, as the young and enthusiastic author 
 imagined him after reading his book in the French. 
 In his last novel, the Parisians, Lord Lytton re- 
 turned to his early impressions and introduced a 
 character named Savarin 
 
 "And thou most beautiful of all, thou evening 
 star of entremets — thou that delightest in truffles and 
 gloriest in the dark cloud of sauces — exquisite /o«e- 
 gras I — Have I forgotten thee ? What though the 
 goose, of which thou art a part, has, indeed, been 
 roasted by a slow fire, in order to increase thy di- 
 vine proportions — yet has not our Almanach — the 
 Almanach des Gourmands — truly declared that the 
 goose rejoiced amid all her tortures — because of the 
 glory that awaited her ? 0, exalted among birds — 
 apothe sied goose, did not thy heart exult even 
 when thy liver parched and swelled within thee, from 
 that most agonizing death ; and didst thou not, like 
 the Indian at the stake, triumph in the very tor- 
 ments which alone could render thee illustrious V* 
 
 — Pelham. 
 
 That settles it. We don't want any preternatur- 
 ally enlarged fat livers of geese if they have to be 
 obtained in that way. 
 
 In the countries where truffles grow and these ab- 
 normal fat livers are produced the pates or raised 
 pies are made with about three livers partly split 
 like pouches, and truffles cut in pieces stuffed into 
 the cavities. The crust is of hot-water paste raised 
 in a mould. The inside of the raised crust is first 
 lined with a forcemeat m«ide of chicken meat, bread 
 crumbs, fat pork and herb seasonings, pounded and 
 forced through a seive. The livers are laid in, 
 truffles strewn in fragments over them, fat pork and 
 forcemeat over that and a top crust over all. The 
 pie is baked over two hours, enveloped in buttered 
 paper. When nearly done it is withdrawn from the 
 oven and some cognac brandy poured in. It is re- 
 turned to the oven, and when done is filled up with 
 aspic jelly mixed with madeira wine. The pie is 
 elaborately ornamented with patterns in paste, and 
 the dish with jelly. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 215 
 
 Of the truffles used it is said : If a vendor with a 
 basketful passes through the house in the morning 
 a stranger coming in in the afternoon, hours after- 
 wards, is instantly made aware of it by the perfume 
 left behind. 
 
 "A huge Sirvksbourg pats de foie-ffras in the shape 
 of a bastion. * * Ajar of truffled /o2e- 
 
 ffras. 
 
 Soon the interior of each car- 
 
 riage discloses its treasures of pies, its marvels of 
 paUde-foie-gras, its dainties of all possible kinds. 
 * * * I have seen them ' display on the 
 turf the turkey in clear jelly, the household pie, the 
 salad all ready for mixing." 
 
 — A Hunting Party, — Gastronomic. 
 **I ask you to meet a sautS de foie gras, and a 
 haunch of venison." 
 
 — Pelham, 
 
 803. Fat Liver Cheese in Jelly. 
 
 PAIN DE FOIES DE POULAEDES. 
 
 1^ pounds of chicken livers. 
 
 1 pound of calf 8 liver. 
 
 The meat of one chicken, previously cooked. 
 IJ pounds of dry fat salt pork. 
 
 4 ounces of bread steeped and squeezed dry. 
 
 1 corned tongue cooked. 
 
 8 ounces of the brisket fat of corned beef. 
 
 2 cans of truffles, or, 1 pound fresh mushrooms. 
 6 raw yolks of eggs. 
 
 J pint of madeira or sherry. 
 
 Spiced salt for seasoning. 
 
 Examine the livers for gall stains, which make 
 vhem bitter. Steep them all night in cold water. 
 Melt the fat pork in a large saucepan, add all the 
 livers cut small and the chicken meat likewise. 
 Cook a short time, only till the livers seem to be 
 cooked through without letting them become hard. 
 If you have no spiced salt add a bayleaf, pepper, 
 thyme and a pinch of spices in the saucepan to cook 
 with the livers. Pound to a paste. Mix the bread 
 panada and raw yolks together and the wine with 
 them, add this mixture to the liver paste and press 
 it all through a seive. Cut the brisket fat (already 
 well cooked and cold) into dice shapes, also the red 
 tongue and the truffles or mushrooms, and mix them 
 in the paste. 
 
 Bake the mixture in a mould for about 2 hours, 
 but before putting it in the mould cover the bottom 
 with thin slices of fit pork and hy some more and 
 one bayleaf over the top of the liver cake. Set the 
 mould in a pan of water and bake it that way. 
 
 When done let it get quite cold in the mould. 
 Dip in hot water to take it out. Remove all the fat, 
 smooth it over with a hot knife. Cover with jelly or 
 other\;ise ornament as for galantines and pressed 
 beef. 
 
 In place of the brisket fat above specified French 
 cooks use calf s udder salted and boiled. 
 
 Fre?h gathered large mushrooms, chocolate brown 
 on the under side, yield a rich gravy and a higher 
 flivor than the button mushrooms, and make a 
 much better substitute for truffles. 
 803a. 
 
 Chicken Liver Paste or Liver Cheese. 
 
 1^ pounds of poultry livers. 
 
 12 ounces of fat ham or salt pork. 
 
 4 ounces of lean cooked ham. 
 
 1 email cup of sherry. 
 
 1 bayleaf, pepper, little spice and salt. 
 
 12 ounces of bread panada (French rolls soaked in 
 milk and then squeezed dry in a cloth.) 
 
 4 raw eggs. 
 
 8 hard boiled yolks. 
 
 1 cooked corned tongue. 
 
 Some chopped mushrooms. 
 
 Aspic jelly to garnish with. 
 
 Steep the poultry livers — any kind — in cold water 
 to whiten them. Set all the ingredients of the first 
 part to simmer in a saucepan with the lid on at the 
 back part of the range, and let remain till a con- 
 venient time, or two or three hours. Then mash to 
 a paste. Thejivers, etc., should be nearly dry in 
 the saucepan but not at all fried or browned. 
 
 Mix the raw eggs with the panada and these with 
 the pounded liver. Press through a seive. Cut up 
 the red tongue, the hard boiled yolks and mush- 
 ro<^m8 if you have them and mix these in the paste. 
 Bake about an hour with thin slices of fat pork first 
 laid in the bottom of the pan or mould, and aiso on 
 top of the liver cake and a buttered paper over that, 
 and the mould set in a shallow pan of water in the 
 oven. 
 
 The paste as made above can be taken from the 
 pan or mould, freed from fat and decorated like 
 boned fowls. 
 
 For individual dishes form it in egg shapes in 
 this way: 
 
 Chop some aspic jelly and have it ready. Make 
 two tablespoons hot in a saucepan of water and scoop 
 out spoonfuls of the liver paste, using the spoons 
 alternately. While the egg shapes are still moist 
 on the outside sprinkle them over with the jelly, or 
 roll them in it. 
 
 **He who can afford every day a dinner sufficient 
 
 for a hundred persons, is often satisfied by eating 
 
 the thigh of a chicken." 
 
 — Savarin. 
 
 "I have always heard how cheap poultry is in 
 
 Italy. I should think a fowl is worth about twelve 
 
 sous at Rome." 
 
 — Monte Cliristo, 
 
 "Hence the necessity for the many devices of art 
 to reanimate that ghost of an appetite by dishes 
 which maintain it without injury and caress without 
 stifling it." 
 
 —SaiHsritta 
 
216 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 *'We have a fixed price for all our provisions. It 
 signifies nothing whether you eat much or little — 
 whether you have ten dishes or one — it is always 
 the same price." 
 
 — Monte Chrisio. 
 
 •'Only ignorance can excuse those who serve up 
 the quail otherwise than roasted or en papillotes, be- 
 cause its flavor is so easily lost that if the animal is 
 plunged in any liquid it evaporates and disap- 
 pears." 
 
 — Savarin 
 
 8€SSb. Galantines of Quails. 
 
 First prepare the godiveau or forcemeat to fill out 
 the thin parts of the quails : 
 
 12 ounces of pork tenderloins. 
 
 12 ounces of cooked chicken meat. 
 
 20 ounces of fresh fat pork. 
 
 Pound them smooth, the chicken first, the tender- 
 loin added and then the fat. Season with spiced 
 salt and rub the paste through a seive. 
 
 Then prepare these for filling, all cut in small 
 dice: 
 
 1 cooked red corned tongue. 
 
 1 pound of chicken livers — parboiled. 
 12 ounces of cooked fat bacon. 
 12 ounces of cooked ham. 
 
 2, 3, or 4 cans of truflaes— or, some mushrooms. 
 
 Salt, spices, madeira wine or sherry. 
 
 Bacon slices to wrap the birds in. 
 
 Some meat glaze. 
 
 Flour-and-water paste. 
 
 When you have cut the tongue, livers, bacon fat, 
 ham and truffles in small dice season them either 
 with spiced salt or with pepper and spices equiva- 
 lent, and then stir in half a cup of wine. 
 
 Bone two dozen quails, wipe them dry and clean ; 
 pare some meat from the breasts and lay it over the 
 thin places ; spread over them a little of the force- 
 meat paste, over that a layer of the dice -cut mix- 
 ture, and then fold up the quails to their original 
 shape. Instead of sewing roll e^ch bird in a thin 
 slice of unsmoked bacon or dry salt pork. These 
 are now to be coobed separately and this is best 
 done in deep muffin pans or gem pans of granite- 
 ware — either round or oval will do but they must 
 be large enough to hold gravy above the quails, and 
 in nests of ten or twelve fastened together the 
 usual way. Press the galantines into the pans, 
 pour over a little melted fresh butter mixed with 
 meat glaze (natural meat gravy simmered down 
 thick), cover each one with a crust of flour-and- 
 water paste, bake in a moderate oven about an hour, 
 the gem pans or moulds set In a baking p in con- 
 taining boiling water. — They must not brown nor 
 fry. 
 
 When done take off the paste covers and let the 
 quails cool a little, then press them by setting one 
 
 nest of pans or moulds on top of the other and 
 weights on top of all. When quite cold take the 
 galantines from the moulds, remove the covering of 
 bacon, trim them and use in the ways of the larger 
 galantines, either to slice in jelly, built in a pyramid 
 and decorated, or to surround a larger galantine. 
 
 The greatest care is required in seasoning the 
 above lest they come out too salt, the ham, tongue 
 and bacon all being likely to contribute some. The 
 butter used should be poured off clear, and fresh 
 pork may be used for outside wrapping instead of 
 salt, rather than risk anything. 
 
 Somewhere, I think, the Count of Monte Christo 
 has a splendid cold supper set in a wonderful cave, 
 and there is a large fawl, perhaps it was a turkey, 
 surrounded by Corsican blackbirds Liisely enough 
 the heads of the blackbirds were set on again after 
 the tiny galantines were cooked and ornamented. 
 But it is not likely that the cook made a separate 
 lot of fillings for the birds when he had just stuffed 
 the turkey with another kind. He might have bad 
 to do 80 had he been cooking for a houseful of 
 boarders without appetiies, to whom nothing tastes 
 good, but he had to serve only transients, just ar- 
 riving and mostly delighted with all they meet with 
 at the hotel table. The cook in that case used for 
 the large galantine the same kind of forcemeat as 
 that in our boned turkeys and chickens some dis- 
 tance back, which is very good and not too arti- 
 ficially flavored, and he took some of the same and 
 added truffles cut small to it for the galantines of 
 birds. When boning quails for a supper where 
 there is no bill of fare to turn attention to them it is 
 best to leave the legs on — boned half way and stuffed 
 —to show what they are. 
 
 80Sc.Boned Pig's Head in Jelly. 
 
 The head should be corned in the same kind of, 
 pickle as corned beef, but only lie in it 2 or 3 days. 
 
 Bone the head before salting. It should be the 
 head of a butcher's porker, not a fat bacon hog. 
 Saw it in halves and cut the meat close to the bone. 
 It is handier to slice made up in two halves than 
 one whole head. You want besides : 
 
 4 pounds of sausage meat from the butcher's. 
 
 2 corned red tongues, or 4 if pigs' tongues. 
 
 2 pounds of fat salt pork. 
 
 Take the two halves of the head from the brine, 
 wash in cold water, trim off any discolored portious, 
 take off the ears — they can be thrown in the boiler 
 separate — then laying the head skin downwards 
 slice off some of the meat from the thick parts and 
 lay over the thin. Spread some sausage meat over ; 
 cut the tongues and fat pork in strips and lay them 
 on the sausage crosswise of the head. Cover the 
 strips with the rest of the sausage meat. 
 
 Roll up the two halves tightly, beginning with 
 the snout, which is to be in the middle of the roll, 
 and the rolls to be of even thickness from one end 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 217 
 
 to the other and evenly mixed, the lean with the fat, 
 80 as to slice all alike and no waste. Roll up in 
 clean white pudding cloths, sew or tie securely. 
 Boil from 4 to 6 hours in a boiler that will hold six 
 gallons of water, and put in with the head some 
 soup vegetables and sage, and pepper and salt. 
 
 When done press them in shape like any other 
 galantine ; there is no better shape than the long 
 and narrow sinks of the steam chest. Some cheaper 
 tins made like them should be kept on hand for such 
 purposes. 
 
 The liquor in which the head has boiled 6 hours 
 will be a strong jelly when cold, without the addition 
 of gelatine. 
 
 The cloth wrapping for galantines and pig's heads 
 that comes the nearest to absolute purity is a piece 
 of well-worn white linen tablecloth such as the 
 housekeeper generally can supply. The many 
 bleachings it has had have freed it from the taste of 
 new cloth. It should be washed in clear water and 
 kept white and dry for such uses. 
 
 Take off the grease and clarify thejellyinthe 
 same way as directed for aspic, and then use it to 
 coat the boned pigs' heads in their moulds by the 
 same method as boned turkeys. 
 
 They are adapted either to be set on the table 
 whole or sliced with the jelly surrounding for in- 
 dividual dishes — their chief merit being, they are 
 always declared to be good eating. 
 
 803cl. 
 
 Head Cheese. 
 
 Make it the same in a general way as pressed 
 coropd beef, with a sage and pepper seasoning. 
 
 Split the heads, bone them, singe, scrape and 
 thoroughly cleanse them and let lie in corned beef 
 pickle about 2 days. Boil 3 or 4 hours. Then cut 
 up the meat, strain the liquor through a fine gravy 
 strainer, put cut meat and liquor back in the boiler 
 and simmer 2 hours more with the seasonings added, 
 cool and press in moulds or bright milk pans. 2 
 teaspoonfuls of pepper, 2 of ground sage and 2 of 
 salt is the average seasoning needed for one head 
 that is partly salted before cooking. 
 
 'It is useless trying to make fat bacon heads "go" 
 in these forms. Either take off all the fat for lard 
 or else mix in a proportion of lean corned beef. 
 
 "Oh why did I at Brazennose 
 
 Root up the roots of knowledge ? 
 A butcher that can't read will kill 
 A pig that's been to college." 
 
 — Lament of Toby^ the Learned Pig. 
 '* *1 wonder it did not create a rebellion,' said 
 Sallust. 'It very nearly did,' returned Pansa, with 
 his mouth full of wild boar." 
 
 — Last Days of Pompeii, 
 
 "The next trifle was a wild boar, which emelled 
 divine. Why, then, did Margaret start away from 
 it with two shrieks of dism ty, and pinch so good a 
 friend as Gerard ? Because the duke's cuisinier 
 had been too clever, had made this excellent dish 
 too captivating to the sight as well as taste. He 
 had restored to the animal, by elaborate mimicry 
 wiih burnt sugar and other edible c lors, the hair 
 and bristles he had robbed him of by fire and water. 
 To make hitn still m )re enticing, the huge tusks 
 were carefully preserved in the brute's jaw, and 
 gave to his mouth the winning smile that comes of 
 tusV: in man or beast : and two eyes of colored sugar 
 glowed in his head. St. Argut I what eyes I so 
 bright, so bloodshot, so threatening — they followed 
 a man and every movement of his knife and spoon." 
 — The Cloister and the Hearth. 
 
 We have only to remark of the above ferocious 
 monster that the tusks he showed were not his own, 
 but were imitations made of tallow hardened with 
 alum ; his mouth was made dreadful by being spread 
 all over the inside with red butter colored either 
 with beet juice or with lobster coral ; his savage grin 
 was produced by propping up his lips, where the 
 tusks protrude, while the head was warm after 
 cooking, and letting it become very cold before 
 taking the chips away, and his eyes were very 
 likely of glass marbles, or the proper made glass 
 eyes used by taxidermists ; as for the briatles, the 
 skin was first brushed over several times with meat 
 glaze and when that was quite dry the confectioner 
 came with some melted sugar taffy and a brush made 
 of iron wires and made sugar hairs stand up all over 
 it and then barbered them to the right heigbtb. 
 All the brains the boar bad in his head was some 
 minced meat of a calf. 
 
 80;3e. Pifir's Head Galantine. 
 
 Take the head of a large butcher's porker cut off 
 with a good part of the neck attached. Singe off 
 any remaining hairs and trim it clean. Commence 
 at the throat and bone it carefully, then put it in 
 pickle for 3 or 4 days. Stuff it with sausage meat 
 (or, any forcemeat used for boned turkeys wi 1 do) 
 and strips of red tongue and fat bacon, and season 
 with aromatic spiced salt. 
 
 Form it in its natural shape, sew the cuts with 
 cotton twine, roll up tightly in a cloth and boil 6 or 
 6 hours in stock seasoned well with soup vegetables, 
 salt, pepper and sage, and, if so required, with a 
 bottle of white wine. But with the wine stock use 
 thyme instead of sage. When done let it cool in the 
 liquor till it can be bandied with ease, then take off 
 the cloth and bind the head again with bands of 
 cloth, drawing it into the shape it is to have when 
 cold. 
 
 Set the ears up, and if curled by boiling flatten 
 them ^ith split pieces of wood. When quite cold 
 
1318 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 unwind the bandage, draw out the sewing twine, 
 trim the head and glaze it in the ways directed for 
 roast hams. 
 
 *♦ 'I had hoped/ said Glaucus, in a melancholy 
 tone, *to have procured you some oysters from 
 Britain ; but the winds that were so cruel to Cassar 
 have forbid us the oysters. * -x- « Xbey 
 want the richness of the Brundusium oyster, but at 
 Rome DO supper is complete without them.' " 
 
 — Last Days of Pompeii. 
 
 "And glittering blocks of colored ice." 
 
 — Aldricji. 
 
 "Ices and gentle drinks such as the fancy of 
 America could alone devise." 
 
 803r. —Lothair. 
 
 In the entire list of foreign royal menus, some 
 four score in number, previously ics anced in these 
 columns, only one has huitres aux citrons, or raw 
 oysters at all, and this is at the ducal palace of 
 Hesse Darmstadt, in 1868, and the oysters preceded 
 the meal. 
 
 However, the fashion cannot be very new, for 
 they tell us the emperor Heliogabalus used to eat 
 400 Brundusium Blue Points every morning, to give 
 himself an appetite for his breakfast. 
 
 According to a writer in Leslie s Monthly, speak- 
 ing fjr New York, the rule which declares oysters 
 good only ia the months spelled with ' r" is but 
 li'tle regarded now, and the trade is becoming 
 curiously systematized so that there is a different 
 crop of oysters for different seasons and different 
 purposes. The Prince's Bay's rule almost ex- 
 clusively in the summer months, succeeded by 
 Sounds and Mill Ponds. The winter months bring 
 the Rockaways and East Rivers, and the Blue 
 Points, most esteemed, predominate through the 
 spring. There are long Saddle Roc ^s for roasts 
 and broils ; East Rivers and Virginias for sJews, 
 while for a raw dish the round, fat, large Blue 
 Points and Shrewsburys are preferred. 
 
 The effort at luxury now is to serve raw oysters 
 in hollowed blocks of ice, and they might as well be 
 in clear colored ices, sea green and ocean blue, 
 frozen in form with shells and pebbles — much 
 easier to freeze than sweet ices and mousses glacees. 
 
 '* 'What will your worship please to take for sup- 
 supper?' inquired the host. 'I have a cold cipon, 
 and a cold ham, and a famous cold pasty ; and I 
 can fry you some noble crimson trout from the 
 Darent, or silver eels, as you may like best, and I 
 can add a dish of rare crayfish from the Cray.' 
 
 'Give me the trout and the capon,' replied 
 Chaucer. 'And, hark ye, while you are preparing 
 supper, bring me a flask of red Gascoigne wine and 
 a manchet.' " 
 
 — James^ Merry England. 
 
 soser, 
 
 Cold Ham. 
 
 It may be just necessary to mention that hams to 
 be roasted or baked are on rare occasions steeped 
 in wine with spices and herbs, and are entirely 
 covered with a flour-and-v\ater paste and so baked. 
 They are also after steeping (marinading) braised 
 in covered iron saucepans, wiih seasoned soup stock 
 and wine, and finished by baking brown. 
 
 Put the ham in water slightly warm and let it 
 soak • all night. Wash and set it on in cold water 
 and boil 3 to 4 hours. Take it up, remove the skin 
 and bake it in a moderate oven half an hour. Then 
 withdraw it, cover with all the cracktr meal that 
 can be m;ide to stick with pressure, and bake a few 
 miuutes longer to brown the breading. Cracker 
 meal is pounded and sifted crackers. Dried bread 
 crumbs do as well, or raspings of bread. 
 
 803h, To Glaze a Ham. 
 
 Meat glaze may be defined as beef tea boiled 
 down till it is as thick as syrup, and like gum when 
 quite cold. It may be obtained in quantity by 
 boi'ing down rich stock or stewed meat liquor. 
 
 To glaze a ham, after baking it brown give it two 
 or three coats with a brush dipped in gaze, drying 
 it in a warm place after each application. 
 
 Another way, useful when there is no glaze ready, 
 is, after baking the ham brown, cover it with all 
 the granulated sugar that caa be made to s ick to it 
 with pressure of the hands. The ham shorld, 
 however, be first freed as much as possible from 
 grease by means ofa dry cloth. Put the sugar- 
 coated ham back in the oven and watch it lill the 
 sugar has become caramel brown all over alike. 
 
 803i. 
 
 Sandwiches. 
 
 1. Two thin slices of buttered bread and a slice 
 of cold roast turkey, peppered and salted, laid be- 
 tween. Cut the slices in square form, thea across 
 to make triangular sandwiches. Pile on a folded 
 napkin. 
 
 2. Melt a cupful of butter in a saucepan. Mince 
 an equal quantity of cold boiied ham and add it to 
 the butter. Put in for seasoning a tablespoonful of 
 made mustard, pepper and a chopped pickle. 
 Spread one slice of bread with this mixture, another 
 with plain butter and lay a very thin slice of cold 
 roast veal between. 
 
 3. Spread slices of cold ham with a little mus- 
 tard and lay between two slices of buttered bread. 
 
 French rolls made flat for the purpose and 
 shortened with butter, also well made flaky biscuits 
 are preferable to sliced bread for sandwiches for 
 ball suppers and outdoor parties, as they do not be- 
 come dry eo quickly. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 219 
 
 Sandwiches and Bandv^ch roU^ are also spread 
 ■with liver paste and th' n shaved chicken or tongue, 
 and witli anchovies at*d caviare. 
 
 802.i. 
 
 Ornamental Stands for Cold Dishes* 
 
 Such articles as white galantines, jardiniere salad 
 and whole fishes covered with miyonaise have to 
 be raised on tall stands, or tbey make no show at 
 all on a set (able, and an ornamental set-off is as 
 valuable to a homely-looking dish as to some other 
 homely things, A common glass cake stand can be 
 80 coated with white wax, or parrafio, and so 
 covered with whi'e wax flowers of a sort easily 
 made, and artificial leaves, that it can never be 
 recognized f r what, it is, and a white galantine 
 seems very much at home on that sort of stand. 
 But the better expedient ia to get a carpenter to 
 make some stands of wood, something like glass 
 cake stands, that is, consisting of a stem set ia a 
 broad case, but of oval shapes, the top being a tray 
 with a hoop-like rim to receive and hold the large 
 meat platter. 
 
 These cabinet-work stands being neatly made cf 
 white wood and smooth, are next to be coated over 
 with parrafin melted and applied with a brush, 
 then smoothed by holding before the fire. 
 
 There are moulds to be had, imported from Paris 
 made of type metal and close fitting in which may 
 be cast classical figures in white wax, sea-horses 
 dragons and the Lke to be set around the base of 
 your stands, ard heads and faces and birds for the 
 euds of the platters. 
 
 The making of the multitudinous roses is a very 
 
 simple matter, and though they are not very life- 
 like they answer the temporary purpose quite well. 
 You take half a dozen carrots of different sizes and 
 cut the ends as near as may be in the resemblance 
 of flowers, dip them in melted parrafin or wax and 
 then immediately into cold water. The thin waxen 
 mask of a flower shape can then be pulled off and 
 another made. These are of course easily set in 
 clusters on the stands by means of melted wax, pbA 
 white leaves such as cakes are ornamented with COBO^ 
 plete the garlands. But all sorts .i mouldin?S» cpr» 
 niees and borders can bQ Clad , on the sam« plpSif 
 Instead of wax these stands can be covered with 
 cake icing, white or colored, and with ornaments of 
 gum paste. 
 
 One thing more : There is a little patching to be 
 done in our trade as well as others. It is difiicult 
 to boil a fish so entire that it can be covered smooth- 
 ly with a jelly and show no yawning chasms, and 
 to have a boar's head without an ugly twist in the 
 corner of his mouth. To smooth over the breaks in 
 the fish, or to stuff it in natural form make a paste 
 of whitefish pounded with half as much bread, a little 
 butter, and yolks of eggs, and bake the fish a little 
 while, covered with buttered paper. For the other 
 case forcemeat will answer, glazed over. 
 
 " *Ah ! what delicacy hast thou in store for us 
 now, my Glaucus V cried the young Sallust, with 
 sparkling eyes. 
 
 *I know its face, by Pollux !' cried Pansa, *it is 
 * « *| 
 
 — The Last Days of Pompeii. 
 
 802 k. Raised Pies. 
 
 They are of two or more kinds, either raised by 
 pressing a common paste info the shape of a dish, 
 with the fingers, or made more ornamental with a 
 richer paste in a tin mould. 
 
 For the la'ter make the ordinary short paste the 
 fame ?»s for covered pies or shortcake, of a pound 
 cf lard to two pounds of flour and a little salt,mixed 
 up j-lightly warm. Knead it compact and smooth 
 
 Put a buttered sheet of paper on a baking pan, 
 butter the mmld inside and set it on the p&per; put 
 in a bottom crust half an inch thick and then line 
 the sides, wet ing the lower edge and pressing it to 
 join the bottom piece. 
 
 , The pie may be filled with anything in the meat 
 line that is good to eat cold; there may be a boned 
 chicken prepared exactly as directed for galantine, 
 and some boned quails placed around it, and have 
 trufilea and mushrooms for seasonings and thin 
 slices of fat unsmoked bacou on top. 
 
 But to make it as fine as possible, the inside of 
 the crust should be spread over with liver pas'e 
 made as at No. 802, or preferably perhaps, with tine 
 
 sausage meat, before the fowls are put in. 
 
 Then put on the top crust, pinch the edges, trim 
 neatly, roll the scraps of paste thin and stamp out 
 leaf shapes enough to cover the top. Leave a hole 
 in the middle. Bru h over with egg and water, tie 
 greased paper outside the same as in baking a fruit 
 cake; bake the pie in a slack oven three or four 
 hour?. Open the mould a';d take it off when the 
 pie is nearly cold, and as no liquor is baked in the 
 pie, some gravy made by boiling the bones of the 
 fowl down rich enough to be jelly when cold, must 
 be poured in the cavity left in the lid. 
 
 The renowned Perigord pie has the inside lined 
 wi h slices of truffles set in liver paste sea oned with 
 aromric salt, and the filling is of fat goose livers 
 and truffles, bacon on top and aspic jelly mixed with 
 Madeira wine poured in while the pie is cooling. 
 
 802 1. Hot Water Paste for Raised Pies. 
 
 1 cupful of lard. 
 lOcupfuls of flour. 
 IJcupfuls of flour. 
 
 2 teaspoonfuls of salt. 
 
 Make the water and lard hot,but not boiling,pou» 
 
220 
 
 THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 into the middle of the flour and stir up gradually. 
 Work it stiff and smooth. 
 
 Raised pies of all sizes made of the above kind of 
 paste formed by hand, and covered with a top crust 
 more or less ornamented by snipping with a pair of 
 shears, are quite an Eog'ish institution; small pork 
 pies, eel pies and others being the sole article of 
 trade at some lunch hous s; whilst the larger and 
 more elaborate forms are among the Christmas 
 dishes of world-wide fame. 
 
 802 m. Chicken or Turkey Sausage. 
 
 Take the skin off a large fowl by first cutting 
 down the back and cutting around the joints to the 
 skin as nearly whole as possible. 
 
 Cut all the meat of the fowl from the carcass with- 
 out bone or gristle, chop it raw, like sausage meat, 
 and then pound it with a masher in the chopping 
 bowl. Weigh it, and take half as much fat bacon, 
 chop and pound it likewise. Mix the two pastes 
 together, season like sausage-meat with pepper.sage 
 and salt. Roll up in the skin of the fowl and then 
 in a napkin, and boil the sausage in seasoned broth, 
 with the bones of the fowl in it, for an hour. When 
 done put it on a dish to cool in the napkin it was 
 boiled in, and another dish or other weight on top 
 to give it an even shape. Slice cold and ornament 
 with ielly and p srsley. 
 
 802 n. Truflaed Chicken. 
 
 1 fat pullet, and the breasts of 2 more. 
 
 1 large can of truffles. 
 
 J pound of fat salt pork. 
 
 Seasonings. 
 Bone the fowl according to directions at No. 779, 
 and cut off the fiUe s or white meat of tho other two 
 and lay them all side by side on the table. Cut the 
 fat pork in thin strips, score gashes in thick parts of 
 the chiclseu and lay the strips in, cut the truffles and 
 dispose the pieces evenly where they will show the 
 black spo's in the white meat when the chicken is 
 sliced. Dredge well with salt and white pepper 
 and a little nutmeg and powdered thyme. Then lay 
 the chicken breasts in the thin places of the fowl, 
 bring the two sides together and sew up the fowl 
 into nearly its original shape. Do it up in a cloth, 
 tie and pin it, and b il it two hours in salted broth. 
 Press it while cooling. Take off the cloth when 
 cold, draw out the thread it is sewed with. Serve 
 the fowl either incased in aspicjelly, or coated with 
 melted butter, or slice it and display the slices in a 
 dish. 
 
 place inside a half of a potted quail, prepared ac- 
 cording to the following receipt. 
 
 802i7. Potted Quail. 
 
 1 dozen quail. 
 
 1 pound of veal. 
 
 1 pound of fat bacon. 
 
 Seasonings and paste. 
 Bone the birds as directed for boning fowls; a 
 penknife may be used, and no great care is requir- 
 ed, except to get all the meat and not tear the sides 
 to tatters. Cut each in two. Chop the veal and 
 bacon together into sausage meat, and season with 
 a teaspoonful of mixed mace, cloves and white pep- 
 per, and the same of salt, and a teaspoonful of finely 
 mincfd lemon riud. 
 
 Select a jar or two small ones that the quail may 
 be kept in after cooking, spread a thin layer of the 
 veal and bacon forcemeat on the bottom, lay the 
 halves of quail in order on that, spread them with 
 a little of the forcemeat and so on till all are in, hav- 
 ing forcemeat for the top. Cover with a thin slice 
 or two of bacon, then with a crust of flour and water 
 paste and bake by setting the jar in a pan of water 
 in the oven, for three hours. 
 
 When done take off the crust and drain away the 
 fat and gravy and press by placing a small plate 
 inside on the meat and a weight on that. When 
 cold cover with clarified butter and cover tightly to 
 exclude the air. 
 
 In case bacon is not liked in such pottings as the 
 two preceding, fresh butter sufficient to cover and 
 bake the meat or birds in can be used instead. 
 
 802 0. Sandwiches of Potted Quail. 
 Make rolls, either split or rounded, but flat, and 
 
 802 g. Potted Rabbit. 
 
 Potted meats will keep for months if required,and 
 can be drawn upon as the occasion requires. 
 
 2 small rabbits or 1 large one. 
 
 1 pound of fat bacon. 1 pound of veal. 
 
 The liver of the rabbits. 
 
 Salt, pepper and spices. 
 Cut the rabbit in pieces and put it in a stone jar; 
 cut the veal and bacon in large dice, mix them and 
 add a teaspoonful of mixed mace, cloves and black 
 pepper, and a teaspoonful of salt, and fill the spaces 
 between the pieces of rabbit. Lay a thin slice or 
 two of bacon on top and 1 bay leaf, then cover with 
 a lid of p^ain paste made of flour and water only, 
 set the jar in a pan or pot containing water and 
 bake in a slow oven 3 or 4 hours. There is no 
 water needed in the meat. A greased paper on top 
 will keep the paste from burning. 
 
 When done,8et the jar away to become cold, pick 
 the meat from the pieces of rabbit and pound them to 
 a paste along with the veal, and bacon and fat, and if 
 any gravy at the bottom, boil down almost dry and mix 
 it in. Taste for seasoning. Press solid into small jars 
 or cups, and cover the top with the clear part of 
 melted butter. Keep tightly covered in a cool place. 
 
THE AMERICAN COOK. 
 
 221 
 
 Chain Pot Scraper. For Potatoes and Chipped Beef. Wire Oyster Broiler 
 
LONDON FINE BAKERY RECIPES. 
 
 FONDANT ICING OR CREAM FONDANT. 
 
 Says Mr. H. G. Harris in the British and For- 
 eign Confectioner, Baker and Restaurateur (Lon- 
 don): "Why do pastry cooks all over the coun- 
 try (he might have written < all over two coun- 
 tries ') persist in using icing sugar beaten up with 
 whites of eggs or gelatine for making pastry and 
 small fancy cakes.? The dull, dead, opaque, and 
 mostly rough surface obtained is always offensive 
 to me, and, I think, must be so to any one accus- 
 tomed to use fondant. The beautiful, bright, 
 glistening, and semi-transparent fondant is still 
 without a rival, and is withal so cheap, that I 
 really do not understand why every confectioner 
 in the country does not use it?" 
 
 As far as concerns the great body of our hotel 
 pastry cooks, one very sufficient reason for their 
 not adopting the better plan is set forth in the 
 next paragraph : 
 
 " The utensils needed are a stove for boiling 
 sugar — gas will do if you have a good volume of 
 jets ; a good-sized copper stewpan ; a marble slab ; 
 a set of polished i-inch iron bars for making the 
 sides of ' well ' or • bay ' on the slab. A spattle 
 like a small iron peelhead on the handle of a car- 
 pet-stretcher; and a flat steel scraper, like those 
 used by painters. Also a small earthen pan with 
 a cover, to keep the fondant in when made, and 
 say half a dozen small white metal French stew- 
 pans for melting the fondant for use as needed." 
 
 To the above list should be added a saccha. 
 rometer — a small glass instrument (which costs 
 about $2.50), graded to show the different degrees 
 of boiling sugar. It is a fact, more or less un- 
 fortunate, that but a very small proportion of 
 hotels are so well furnished in their working de- 
 partments as to possess these candy-making uten- 
 sils, and the twenty thousand houses that are 
 without such conveniences and yet employ pas- 
 try cooks at very fair pay, will still perpetuate the 
 ready and easy methods which require no fresh 
 outlay for special tools. 
 
 Every reader knows \i\\2X fondant (pronounced 
 fondong) is, but not by that name, who has ever 
 eaten the assorted fancy candies of the shops, and 
 will now understand its usefulness and value : it 
 is the white, soft candy that forms the inside of 
 chocolate drops, and that is used in making wal- 
 nut creams, fig creams and all those "bon-bons " 
 which have a strip of candied fruit or nuts pressed 
 into a cream candy base. It is fondant icing to 
 
 spread over cakes when it is melted over the fire, 
 and, perhaps, slightly diluted with syrup. As 
 icing it cannot be used for piping, but is only for 
 a glossy covering for cakes. The most concise 
 and lucid directions for making it are the fol- 
 lowing : 
 
 CREAM FONDANT — NO. I. 
 
 " I presume from your question that the cream 
 you speak of is what we call fondaht, which ar- 
 ticle is the basis of all cream bonbons. This fon- 
 dant is also used for covering or icing cakes and 
 a great variety of what is called dipped goods. 
 Fondant is made by boiling simple syrup to the 
 forty-fifth degree by the saccharometer ; then 
 pouring it on a very clean marble slab between 
 iron bars, and when it has become nearly cold, so 
 that you can place the back of your hand upon it 
 without its adhering to it; it must be worked to 
 and fro with a long-handled spatula until it gran- 
 ulates into a smooth mass, it must then with a 
 knife be loosened from the marble and worked or 
 broken with the hands into a softish mass, and 
 placed into an earthenware pan and covered. 
 When you want to use it for icing purposes place 
 the required quantity in a round-bottomed pan, 
 place it upon a slow fire, and stir constantly with 
 a small wooden spatula until it is thoroughly 
 melted, and there are no lumps in it. Do not on 
 any account allow it to boil, even a little, as that 
 would entirely destroy its creamy texture and 
 change it into hard conserve ; when melted pour 
 it over the article to be covered and use a pallet 
 knife to smooth it and facilitate your operation, 
 which must be done quickly, as in a few moments 
 it will begin to set and dry. The cake can then 
 be decorated with ordinary egg-icing, or in any 
 other way to suit your fancy." 
 
 CREAM FONDANT — NO. 2. 
 
 Take say 14 lbs. of good loaf sugar, put in a 
 stewpan with ly^ lb. liquid glucose, and 2 quarts 
 water; allow it to stand some time to dissolve 
 the sugar; the less water you can dissolve 
 the sugar in, the less time will it need boiling, 
 and consequently the better color your fondant 
 will be, but all the crystals must be dissolved be- 
 fore the syrup comes to the boil, or you are sure 
 to have trouble arising from recry stall ization or 
 graining ; whilst your syrup is boiling add a few 
 drops only of acetic acid, boil to the soft ball, and 
 then quickly pour on to a very clean marble slab 
 previously well sprinkled w^ith water, and with 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COO.v 
 
 223 
 
 iron or steel bars placed so as to form a square or 
 oblong space for the sugar. Sprinkle also a little 
 cold water on the surface of the sugar : it will 
 keep it from forming a hard surface and make it 
 easier to work after; when nearlj cold lift up the 
 iron bars, and with a scrape clean them, and also 
 scrape the sugar all into the middle of the slab ; 
 then with a flat iron or wooded spattle work it 
 from the sides to the middle ; that is, with a push- 
 ing motion collect the sugar from the outside of 
 the mass and quicklj and continually turn it over 
 on to the centre by a backward motion. 
 
 This will take some little time, but by and by 
 the sugar will begin to look white, and will con- 
 tinue to do so, only more so, until after a little it 
 will become quite opaque and hard ; then care, 
 fully scrape it off the spattle and slab ; put away 
 ready to use as may be required. 
 
 CREAM FONDANT — NO. 3. 
 (BY MR. E. G. HARRIS.) 
 
 It will be best to try a small quantity first, un- 
 til you get experience ; so we will start with, say, 
 seven pounds broken loaf sugar (Say's loaf is 
 best, but Tate's crushed is good, but must be 
 sifted to remove all fine). Put the seven pounds 
 sugar into the stewpan with one pound liquid 
 glucose and about a pint and a half of water. Put 
 the lid on and stand the stewpan on one side for 
 an hour, by which time the sugar will be nearly 
 dissolved. Now put on to the stove and bring 
 up to the 6oil. Be careful that no lumps remain 
 undissolved when the boiling point is reached. 
 Keep the sides of the stewpan washed down by 
 dipping the fingers of the right hand into cold 
 water, and then with your fingers clearing off 
 any sugar that may adhere to the stewpan. After 
 well washing the sides down, and skimming off 
 any dirt or scum that may rise to the surface, it is 
 best to keep the cover on the stewpan for some 
 little time, then the steam will be sure to keep the 
 sides clean ; so place the cover that the bulk of 
 the steam may escape, or it will condense and fall 
 back into the sugar. Boil quickly as you can 
 until the sugar reaches the ball. To try this, dip 
 your fingers into a basin of cold water, then into 
 the boiling sugar and back into the cold water 
 carrying some sugar on your fingers ; and when 
 you can roll up the soft and sticky mass on your 
 fingers into the form of a ball or marble that will 
 just, but only just, retain its shape, it is ready for 
 your purpose. It is not needed to be boiled quite 
 so high as the ball for fondant making, but I bring 
 it back, slightly, later on, as I will show you. 
 
 Before the sugar is quite finished boiling, have 
 your slab well washed and dried, and ready to 
 use ; and when the sugar is nearly boiled enough, 
 rub a little cold water all over the slab and arrange 
 ♦Ue bars to form either a square or an oblong, so 
 
 that the sugar, when poured on, shall be about 
 half an inch thick. Now pour quickly on the 
 slab, and sprinkle all at once over the surface a 
 little cold water, until the heat of the sugar 
 causes the water to vaporise, and steam ari«es. 
 This will produce a wet surface all over the sugar, 
 and prevent a thick skin forming, and also reduce 
 the tendency to graining. My reason for boiling 
 up to the ball was to enable me to put this little 
 water on the boiled sugar, and thus bring it back 
 to the pitch to which I wanted it. 
 
 Do not scrape out the stewpan, because the 
 sugar so scraped out will be slightly grained, and 
 will cause the clear sugar on the slab to grain 
 more or less if added to it. Therefore put a little 
 water into the stewpan and place back on the 
 stove, cover down with lid, and the result after a 
 little boiling will be a clean stewpan and some 
 clear surup which will be useful in many ways ; 
 reducing the fondant to the proper thickness, 
 etc., when being used. 
 
 Do not touch the sugar on the slab until it is 
 nearly cold, say about forty-five minutes after you 
 put it there, but that must depend on temperature 
 of the place, etc. (If the sugar is too cold, you 
 will have great difficulty in beating it up, and if 
 too hot, the graining will lake place too quickly, 
 and the crystals be much too large. The re-crys- 
 tallization should be so fine that grittiness or 
 graining is not perceptible, but the mass should 
 be beautifully white and creamy.) 
 
 Now take away the iron bars and scrape them 
 free from sugar; take the large spattle in hand 
 and scrape the mass into the middle of the slab, 
 and proceed to work it well by ever bringing the 
 sides into the middle, with a long sweep at the 
 side, collecting the sugar on the spattle, and then 
 bring back the spattle over the top of the centre, 
 reversing the spattle as you do so, and leaving 
 the sugar so collected on the top each time. In 
 a short time the sugar will begin to look milky, 
 and, later on, creamy. And now, if you please, 
 boss, put in all the work you are able for about 
 ten minutes, and then you will see before you a 
 mass of bright, white, creamy, rocky looking 
 sugar, and If you break off a piece you will find 
 it quite soft and short, and in your mouth, will 
 melt quite readily and taste creamy. Scrape the 
 slab quite clean, bringing all the small pieces to- 
 gether, and press them into the main lump. Put 
 altogether into the earthenware pan, and cover 
 down closely ; it will then come back a little, and 
 become a little softer. 
 
 GENOISE CAKE. 
 
 ^ pound of sugar. 
 3^ pound of butter. 
 13 ^8S»' 
 
Q24 
 
 THE AMERICAN PASTRY CXX>K. 
 
 xX pound of flour. 
 
 Small half-cup of milk. 
 
 3 teaspoons of baking powder. 
 
 Flavor with almond or yanilla. 
 
 Cream the butter and sugar together same as for 
 pound cake, add the eggs 2 at a time and beat in, 
 then the milk and the flour with powder in it 
 
 This cake is used in all sorts of wajs, either in 
 moulds, or cut in squares, or spred in sheets, it 
 is tougher but lighter than pound cake, and is 
 cheaper in proportion to size of cakes. 
 
 MADEIRA CAKE. 
 
 I^ pound of flne granulated sugar. 
 
 I pound of butter. 
 
 16 eggs. 
 
 l^ pound of flour. 
 
 Flavor with lemon. 
 
 Mix same as pound cake, hy stirring the butter 
 and sugar together till white and creamy and 
 then beating the eggs in, 2 at a time, and the 
 flour last. 
 
 Bake in muffin pans or patty pans with strips 
 of citron on the top of each cake. A slight 
 dredging of sugar on top of each cake before bak- 
 ing makes them glaze and look richer. 
 
 MADEIRA CAKE — RICHER. 
 
 I pound of sugar. 
 I pound of butter, 
 12 eggs. 
 
 I pound 2 ounces of flour. 
 Lemon flavor. 
 Citron strips to bake on top. 
 Mix up same as pound cake and the Madeira 
 cake of the previous recipe. 
 
 VICTORIA CAKE. 
 
 I pound of fine granulated sugar. 
 
 16 eggs. 
 
 }4 pound of butter. 
 
 % pound of flour. 
 
 Separate the whites from the yolks, beat the 
 whites quite firm, add the sugar in portions and 
 continue beating, making it the same as kiss 
 meringue mixture; stir up the yolks, then mix 
 them in, then the flour, and melt the butter and 
 stir it in last. Bake in shallow moulds, like 
 sponge cake, and in sheets to be cut in diamonds 
 and iced over. 
 
 JELLY SLICES. 
 
 Bake a sheet of Genoise cake, or any mixture 
 you are used to that will bake level and not rise, 
 rounded over in the middle, and have it less than 
 an inch thick when done. Turn it out of the pan, 
 
 bottom side up, cut in long strips, split them and 
 spread with red fruit jelly or jam same as jelly 
 cake. Stir up a pearl glaze (No. 2) and spread 
 over the top of the strips of cake. This glaze or 
 icing can be made with water as well as with 
 white of eggs, just enough to wet the powdered 
 sugar so that it can be spread smoothly, and can 
 be made pink by using fruit juice instead of 
 water. When these large strips 01 jelly cake have 
 been iced over with it, cut them with a knif? 
 dipped in hot water, into long and narrow pieces 
 and set them a little distance apart on pans for 
 the icing to dry. 
 
 MERINGUE MARSES. 
 
 Make jelly slices like the last, but instead of 
 plain sugar icing pile a thick covering of stiff 
 meringue on top of the large strips, then with a 
 knife dipped in hot water cut down through the 
 meringue and cake and bring the knife straight 
 up again, so as to divide the cake in narrow 
 strips without displacing the meringue much. 
 Smooth the sides and top of each piece, then bake 
 in a slack oven to a light fawn color. The sheets 
 of cake for this form need not be split, but jelly 
 spread on the top and meringue on the jelly. 
 The name *' marse " is probably foreign. 
 
 HINTS ABOUT MERINGUE PASTE. 
 
 The whites of duck's eggs make the firmest 
 meringue. An ounce of sugar to an ounce of 
 white of eggs is the rul ?. The whites should be 
 beaten up quite firm at first — so that it will not 
 slide about in the bowl and will stay in firm 
 pieces wherever it is placed — and after that the 
 sugar should be added in three or four portions 
 and all beaten again. Too much heat in the oven 
 will cause the meringue to shrivel and fall. 
 
 MERINGUE SURPRISES. 
 
 They are shallow pastry tarts containing half a 
 peach or apricot and built up high with meringue, 
 then, instead of being baked, are coated with hot 
 fondant. The surprise consists in finding a fruit 
 tart inside of what appears to be but a kiss me- 
 ringue. Bake tarts in shallow patty pans. Cover 
 with meringue by means of a bag and tube, lay- 
 ing the meringue around the edge first and then 
 another ring and another cone -shape until it ends 
 in a tall point at the top. Run hot fondant all 
 over it by means of a funnel with a handle, made 
 for the purpose. When cold and dry remove the 
 " surprises" with a knife from the marble slab en 
 which the coating has been done, and the surplus 
 drippings of sugar can be scraped up and saved 
 
THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. 
 
 225 
 
 MERINGUE PEACHES. 
 
 The same in the main as the preceding " sur- 
 prises," but instead of a cone, press out the me- 
 ringue from a kiss tube to imitate the shape of a 
 peach — of which the hidden tart is the founda- 
 tion — color pink on one side with a brush dipped 
 in carmine, then gloss over with hot fondant, 
 having a slight green tint imparted hy the addition 
 of green vegetable coloring while melting. These 
 are not mere fancy notions, but are said to be 
 among the best selling staple sweets of the 
 London confectioners. 
 
 JELLY ROLL MIXTURE, 
 
 I pound of sugar. 
 
 14 eggs — or I or 2 less, if large. 
 
 I pound of flour. 
 
 ^ cup lukewarm water. 
 
 }i teaspoonful of soda — small. 
 
 Lemon or vanilla flavor. 
 
 Beat eggs and sugar together until light and 
 thick and increased to three times the original 
 bulk, gradually add the water while beating, with 
 the soda dissolved in it. Stir in the flour just 
 long enough to put it well out of sight, as usual 
 for sponge cake. 
 
 Bake on manilla paper slightly buttered, and 
 to get the roll of uniform thickness run the batter 
 out of a lady-finger tube in lines on the paper al- 
 most touching, that they may run together and 
 make an even sheet of cake. 
 
 SWISS ROLL. 
 
 Having made the jelly-roll sheet as above, 
 spread it with fruit jelly or jam, roll up, then brush 
 ©ver with sweetened water well flavored with 
 lemon and roll it over in plenty of powdered 
 sugar spread on a sheet of paper, then set it where 
 the sugar coating will dry. 
 
 VENICE ROLL. 
 
 Roll up a sheet of cake spread with jelly or 
 jam and ice it over with pink glaze or water icing 
 (No. 2), made by wetting the icing sugar with 
 
 red currant or cherry juice, or wine and coloring. 
 Ornament the top and sides with a pattern in 
 white egg-icing. 
 
 PARIS ROLL. 
 
 When the jelly roll is made, spread red currant 
 jelly thinly all over the outside, then roll it in 
 grated or desiccated cocoanut, enough to c»at it 
 over. Some powdered sugar should be mixed 
 with the cocoanut and then, if the roll be allowed 
 to dry off, it will not be so liable to be sticky as 
 the jelly and cocoanut alone will make it. 
 
 CHOCOLATE ROLL. 
 
 Make a jelly roll and cover the outside with 
 chocolate icing (recipes for making different sorts 
 may be found in the index), and then pipe on a 
 wreath pattern in white egg-icing. 
 
 JELLY ROLL COTELETTES. 
 
 Make a jelly roll and with the rolling-pin roll 
 down one side rather flat so that the slices, when 
 cut, will have the shape of the meat part of a 
 nicely trimmed mutton chop; the cake repre- 
 sents the fat and the jelly the streaks of lean. To 
 make the imitation better, ice the chops over 
 with transparent glaze or water icing. When 
 dry, build them in cake basket or dish in pyramid 
 form. 
 
 DECORATED JELLY ROLLS. 
 
 Jelly rolls to serve whole on a set table may be 
 covered with water icing or pearl glaze not beaten 
 (No. 2), either white or pink, and then ornamented 
 with white egg-icing in wreath or vine and leaf 
 patterns down the whole length; or lines, or 
 bands may be run down, and between the lines of 
 icing run lines of currant jelly ; or, place sugar 
 flowers, crystallized fruits or small ornamental 
 candies. Another way is to moisten the outside 
 with water icing thinly spread with a knife and 
 then roll in pink sugar-sand or granite sugar, 
 which is of a larger grain. 
 
 Cakes.— The following table gives the ingredients necessary for rich pound, Twelfth, or bride 
 cakes of various prices ; it is used by a very old established house in London : 
 
 Ingredients. 
 
 2.50 
 1016 
 
 3.00 
 
 121- 
 
 3.75 
 
 151- 
 
 4.50 
 
 181- 
 
 5.25 
 211- 
 
 7.75 
 811- 
 
 10.50 
 
 421- 
 
 Butter 
 
 lb. oz. 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 1 4 
 6 
 
 IK 
 0% 
 11 
 
 6 
 wine 
 
 Ib. oz. 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 1 6 
 7 
 2 
 
 o"ih 
 
 7 
 glass 
 
 Ib. oz. 
 1 1 
 
 10 
 
 1 10 
 8 
 2 
 
 0^ 
 
 9 
 
 full 
 
 Ib. oz. 
 
 1 4- 
 12 
 
 2 
 10 
 3 
 
 So'; 
 
 lb. or. 
 1 6 
 
 1 
 
 2 8 
 12 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 1 6 
 12 
 
 Ib. or. 
 2 1 
 1 6 
 8 12 
 1 2 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 Ib. oz. 
 S 12 
 
 Sugar 
 
 1 12 
 
 Currants. . ... 
 
 5 
 
 Orange, Lemon, Citron (mixed) 
 
 1 8 
 
 Almonds 
 
 6 
 
 
 2 
 
 Flour...: 
 
 S 12 
 
 Kggs (number) 
 
 24 
 
 Brandy, or Brandy and Wine.,., 
 
 Mpt. 
 
INDEX TO VOL I 
 
 -^TiiQse Numbers Relet tc trie Article, and Not to the Page. «e- 
 
 J^peAt cake, bakers' 684a 
 
 English, 356 
 Maryland, 468 
 charlottes, 352 to 357 
 cobbler, 462 
 compotes, 506 
 cream cake, 261 
 cream pie, 50 
 cpstard pie, 51 
 ,risped or croquante, 251 
 dumplings, 427 and 428 
 'ioat, 171 
 ice pudding, 115 
 pies, various, 52 
 rice and, 362 
 short cake, 327 
 souffle, 686 
 turnovers, 240 
 Apricot ice, 93e 
 
 marmalade, 652 
 Bananas, baked, 249 
 
 crisped or fritters, 250 
 pies, 54 and 64 
 Batter cakes, 577 to 599 
 buckwheat, 585 
 corn, 637 
 graham bread, 584 
 rice, 582 
 white bread, 583 
 without eggs, 578 
 Bavarian creams, 177 to 187 
 Bisque ice creams, 93 to 96 
 Biscuits, glac«s, 120 
 Biscuits, baking powder, 600 to 607 
 Blanc manges, 161 to 167 
 Bread, how to make, 527 to 536 
 brown, 522, 523, 649 
 corn, 621 to 649 
 graham, 510 to 521 
 rolls, French, 549 to 556 
 rolls, Vienna, 684 
 
 rye, 538 
 
 rye and Indian , 524 
 
 sweet kinds, 240 to 248 
 
 sweet coffee cakes and rusks, 
 567 to 576 
 Butter, fairy, 685 
 
 lemon, 38 
 
 peach, 652b 
 
 pumpkin, 652a 
 C*kes, almond, 12 
 
 angel food, 1 
 
 apple, 684a 
 
 apple cream, 261 
 
 black fruit, 652c and 656 
 
 butter sponge, 158 
 
 cheap fruit, 323 » 
 
 cookies, 665 
 
 cream Boston, 296 
 
 cream layer, 160 
 
 delicate sorts, 4 to 21 
 
 gingerbreads, 544 to 546 
 
 jelly roll, 436 
 
 jelly roll, white, 4 
 
 lady fingers, 317 
 
 layer fruit, 652d 
 
 macaroon, 264 
 
 Napoleon, 267 
 
 pound, 653 
 
 pound, fruit, 654 
 
 queen, 14 
 
 small, various, 660 to 676 
 sponge, 3 
 sponge, water, 321 
 sponge, small, 155 
 wedding, 656 
 
 yeast — raised, various, 608 to 
 Candies, various, 218 to 239 617 
 
 bon-bons, 238 
 Caramel coloring, 330 
 Catawba cup. 689 
 Charlotte, apple, 352 
 
 Chantilly, 191 
 Charlotte-russe, 190 to 198 
 individual, note, page 2 
 paper cases for, 502 
 strawberry, small, 503 
 Cheese cakes, 247 
 Cheese creamed, 294 
 
 (ondu, 295 
 Chocolate, 691a 
 cake, 8 
 candy, 238 
 caramels, 234 
 cream, 187 
 cream pie, 55 
 custard, meringue, 465 
 ice cream, 98 
 icing, 25 
 Cocoanut, baked custard, 172 
 cakes, small, 17 
 
 white, 667 
 candies, 226 and 238m 
 caramels, 157 
 conserve, 291 
 ice cream, 108 
 macaroons, 144 
 pies, 43 to 46 
 pudding, 385 
 puffs, 300 
 Coffee, white, for parties, 691 
 Conserve, almond, 290 
 orange, 292 
 pineapple, 306 
 Cornmeal, twenty ways, 621 to 649 
 bread, 622 
 gems, 624 
 muffins, 625 
 puddings, 629 to 636 
 tortillas, 626 
 Corn starch blanc mange, 161 
 cream puffs, 298 
 custard pie, 61 
 ice cream, 79 
 jelly, 162 
 pastry cream, 293 
 pudding, boiled, 419 
 pudding, baked, 421 
 meringue, 422 
 Creams, gelatine, various, 177 to 
 
 strawberry, whipped, 504 189 
 Cream, curd, for cheesecakes, 303 
 fritters, 254 
 puffs, Boston, 296 
 Crullers, 564 
 
 Cup custards, 465 and 467 
 rice, 113 
 tapioca, 112 
 vanilla, 77 
 Doughnuts, 558 to 565 
 
 Bismarcks, 268 
 , Dumplings, 427 to 447 
 
 Eclairs, a la comtesse, 298 
 
 a la creme, 296 
 
 au caramel, 300 
 
 au confiture, 301 
 Egg lemonade, 687 
 
 Fig cream candy, 238j 
 
 paste, 238o 
 
 pie, 54 
 
 pudding, frozen, 320 
 Floating islands, 168 to 171 
 Florentine, 264 
 Friar's omelet, 356 
 Fritters, 274 to 283 
 
 fruit, 253 
 
 plain, 255 
 
 queen, 274 
 
 Spanish puff, 275 
 Frosted fruits, 238r 
 Frozen puddings, 86 to 127 
 
 custard, 77 
 Fruit syrups, 103 
 Frying batter, 253 
 
 Grapes, glazed, with sugar, 238 
 
 Ice creams, 74 to 114 
 
 caramel, 320 
 
 chocolate, 98 
 
 cherry, 83 
 
 cocoanut, 108 
 
 coffee, 99 
 
 curacao, 100 
 
 custard, 77 
 
 ginger, 93d 
 
 maraschino, 100 
 
 Neapolitan, 126 
 
 Nesselrode, 86 
 
 pineapple, 93 
 
 rose, 74 
 
 strawberry, 104 
 
 starch, 79 
 
 tutti frutti, 127 
 
 vanilla, pure cream, 84 
 Ices, fruit, various, 74 to 124 
 
 lemon, 117 
 
 orange, 97 
 Ice cups or bombes, 118 
 Iced froths, 122 and 124 
 Icing cake, 212 
 
 chocolate, 25 
 
 flowers, roses, 215 
 
 gum paste, 216 and 217 
 
 pearl, 2 
 
 rose, 24 
 
 Kisses, egg, 137 
 star, 319 
 
 Jellies, 198 to 209 
 Jelly, corn starch, 162 
 
 tapioca, 163 
 
 wine, 204 
 
 Liady fingers, 317 
 
 Layer cakes, 652d, 81, 160 
 
 Lemonade, 688 
 
 Lemon butter, 38 
 honey, 289 
 mincemeat, 310 
 pies, 35 to 42 
 pies, without eggs, 263 
 pudding, baked, 348 
 pudding, boiled, 407 
 
D 
 
 ME Acaroons, 144, 145, 238 
 
 corn starch, baked, 421 
 
 Rhubarb cobbler, 462 
 
 Marmalade, apricot, 652 
 
 boiled, 419 
 
 marmalade, 651 
 
 rhubarb, 651 
 
 cherry steamed, 47S 
 
 pie, 54 
 
 Meringues, a la creme, 139 
 
 cranberry roll, 344 
 
 Rice and raisins, 363 
 
 Meringue cakes, 147 
 
 Eve's, 360 
 
 boiled, 371 
 
 custards, 667 and 456 
 
 farina, baked, 377 
 
 cup custard, 113 
 
 for lemon pies, 43 
 
 boiled, 420 
 
 puddings, without eggs, 861 
 
 fruit, various, 322 to 325 
 
 fruit, steamed, 387 
 
 Sauces for puddings, 477 to 501 
 
 puffs, various, 140 to 143 
 
 gipsy, 475 
 
 brandy, 486 
 
 Mincemeats, various, 309 to 316 
 
 granula, 430c 
 
 cream, 500 , 
 
 Oranges, candied, 238 
 with rice, 366 
 
 Indian, 456 and 458 
 plum, boiled, 328 and 331 
 
 golden, 495 
 richest wine, 478 
 
 Orange butter, 292 and 48 
 ice, 97 
 pie, 47 
 
 queen, 347 
 rice cake, 367 
 
 sabayon, 493 to 498 
 sugar dip, 477 
 
 rice custard, baked, 364 
 
 Sherbet, lemon, 117 
 
 rice and milk, 361 
 
 orange, 97 
 
 Paper cases, 502 
 
 sago, 879 
 
 pineapple, 105 
 
 Pancakes, 258 and 259 
 
 sponge, 451 
 
 suet, boiled, 402 to 407 
 
 Turkish, 130 
 
 Pastry creams, 285 to 293 
 
 Shortcake, almond, 246 
 
 Paste gum, 216 
 
 tapioca, baked, 375 
 
 apple, 327 
 
 puff, 28 
 
 steamed, 372 
 
 peach, 326 
 
 short, plain, 326 and 426 
 
 West Point, 401 
 
 Saratoga, 244 
 
 tart, sweet, 469 
 
 Yorkshire, 408 
 
 strawberry, 326 
 
 Patties, 242 to 260 
 
 Puff pastry, 28 
 
 Souffles, apple, 686 
 
 Peaches and cream, 173 
 
 puddings, 337 
 
 beignets, 274 
 
 Peach butter, 652b 
 
 Punches, frozen, various, 88 to 136 
 
 puddings, 337 
 
 cobbler, 327a 
 
 Roman, 132 
 
 Strawberries and cream, 174 
 
 flan, 41 
 
 Pies, apple, various, 52 
 
 Strawberry, Bavarian, 180 
 
 ice, 85 
 
 currant cream, 57 
 
 charlottes, 503 
 
 pic, 54 
 
 chocolate cream, 55 
 
 meringue 322 
 
 pudding, 460 
 
 cocoanut, 43 to 46 
 
 punch, 135 
 
 Pears, crisped, 251 
 
 custard, 58 and 61 
 
 shortcake, note, page 4 
 
 pie, 54 
 
 fruit, various, o4 
 
 Tapioca, frozen custard, 112 
 
 Pineapple fritters, 253 
 
 lemon, 35 to 42 
 
 Tarts and small pastries, 72 
 
 ice, 105 
 
 without eggs, 263 
 
 7 macaroon, 266 
 
 sweet salad, 507 
 
 mince, 308 to 316 
 
 Tea for party, 690 
 
 Puddings, 328 to 475 
 
 potato, 63 and 64 
 
 Transparent pie, 288 
 
 apple custard, 359 
 
 pumpkin, 65 to 67 
 
 Vol-au-vents, 72 
 
 roll, note, page 3 
 
 squash, 68 and 69 
 
 Weights and measures, page 6 
 
 basin, English, 430 
 
 tomato, 54 
 
 Whipped cream, note, page 2 
 
 batter, 409 
 
 vinegar, cheap, 59 
 
 White coffee for party, 691 
 
 birds's nest, 412 
 
 
 If east, 512 
 
 cabinet, 418 
 
 Ramequins, 248 
 
 stock, 681 
 
 BOOK OF SALADS AND COLD DISHES. 
 
 Aromatic or spiced salt, 790 
 Aspic jelly, 735 
 
 galantine in 786 
 
 oysters in 739 
 
 of fillets of fowl, 760 
 
 shrimps in 737 
 
 Deans, Lima, 697 
 
 how to cook, 698 
 Boihng vegetables, green, 741 
 
 fowls, 755 
 
 fish, 752 
 Boiled round of beef, 799 
 Boned chicken, 787 
 
 duck, 791 
 
 goose, 791 
 
 pig's head, 807 
 
 quail, 802 
 Brine corned beef, 792 
 Buisson of lobsters, 749 
 
 Caviar, 727 
 
 Chicken liver paste, 805 
 
 Chicken salad, 756 and 769 
 
 truffled, 802 
 Corned beef, 793 
 
 pressed, 797 
 
 in aspic, 798 
 
 ff'ish salads, 750 and 751 
 
 ©alantines in general, 777 
 Galantine en bellevue, 784 
 
 sliced, with jelly, 782 
 
 pig's head, 802 
 
 quail, 802 
 
 stuffing, 785 
 Goose galantine, 791 
 Green mayonaise, 754 
 
 Ham, cold roast, 802 
 
 liiver cheese in jelly, 802 
 
 Iflayonaise, 692 and 738 
 mock, 776 
 
 Ornamental dishes, 802 
 
 Pie or pate in a mould, 802 
 Potted Cisco, 802 
 
 ham, 802 
 
 quail, 802n 
 
 rabbit, 802 
 
 tongue, 802 
 
 Raised pies, 802k 
 
 hot water paste for, 8021 
 
 Salads, cabbage, 762 
 cauliflower, 699 
 celery, 706 
 chicken, 759 and 756 
 corn, 700 
 crab, 728 
 cucumber, 772 
 egg, 802 
 endive, 768 
 
 fish, 750 
 
 ham, 705 
 
 Hamburg, 725 
 
 herring, 726 
 
 Italian, 744 
 
 jardiniere, 740 
 
 lettuce, 795 and 767 
 
 lobster, 746 
 
 macedoine, 724 
 
 oyster, 703 and 738 
 
 potato, plain, 729 
 
 potato in dressing, 723 and 731 
 
 Russian, 745 
 
 salsify, 732 
 
 shrimp, 733 
 
 tomato, 775 
 
 turkey, 758 
 
 veal, 757 
 
 vegetable, 701 
 Salad dressing, favorite, T07 
 
 mayonaise, 693 
 
 without eggs, 709 
 
 without oil, 696 
 Sandwiches, 802 
 Smoked tongue, 802 
 Spiced beef rolls, 802 
 
 round, 800 
 
 pickle for, 801 
 salt, 789 
 
 White galantine, 788 
 
WHITEHEAD'S 
 
 HOTEL COOK BOOKS. 
 
 No. I.-'^THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK." 
 
 PRICE, POSTPAID, S2.00. 
 
 EMBRACES THE FOLLOWING: 
 
 PART FIRST— The Hotel Book of Fine Pastries, Ices, Pies, Patties, Cakes, Creams, Custards, Char. 
 
 lottes, Jellies and Sweet Entrements in Variety. 
 PART SECOND— The Hotel Book of Puddings, Souffles and Meringues. A handy Collection of Valuable 
 
 Recipes, original, selected and perfected for use in Hotels and Eating Houses of every 
 
 Grade. 
 PART THIRD— The Hotel Book of Breads and Cakes; French, Vienna, Parker House, and other Rolls, 
 
 Muffins, Wiiffles, Tea Cakes; Stock Yeast and Ferment; Yeast raised Cakes, etc., etc., 
 
 as made in the best hotels. 
 PART FOURTH— The Hotel Book of Salads and Cold Dishes, Salad Dressings, with and without oil; 
 
 Salads of all kinds, how to make and how to serve them; Boned Fowls, Galantines, 
 
 Aspics etc., etc. 
 
 The above parts are all comprised in the "American Pastry Cook," together 
 with a large amount of valuable miscellaneous culinary matter. 
 
 No. 2.-"HOTEL MEAT COOKING." 
 
 PRICEs POSTPAID. $2.00. 
 
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 PART THIRD— The Hotel Books of Soups and Entrees, comprising specimens of French, English and 
 
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 Bills of Fare, with all the different varieties of Soups and Consommes in proper rotation, 
 
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 PART FOURTH— Creole Cookery and Winter Resort Specialties. 
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 ^^ The above parts are all comprised in "Hotel Meat Cooking," together 
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 PRICE, POSTPAID, SI. 50. 
 
 A PROFESSIONAL COOK'S BOOK FOR HOUSEHOLD USE. 
 
 Consisting of a series oi Alemcs for every -day meals, and for private entertainments, 
 with minute instructions for making every article named. 
 
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 handy reference. 
 
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 Cook," $2.00; "Hotel Meat Cooking," $2.00; "Family Cook Book," $1.50. 
 
 Adress all orders to 
 
 Jessup IVhitehead & Co., 
 
 PUBLISHERS OF HOTEL COOK BOOKS, 
 
 ....CHICAQO, ILL. 
 
NO. 4. 
 
 The Famous California Boole of COOKING, STEWARDING, 
 CATERING and HOTEL KEEPING, called 
 
 Cooking: for Profit 
 
 and eight weeks at a Summer Resort, 
 
 Two Books in One. About 400 Pages. 
 
 A Remarkable Volume which shows how rioney is made by Boarding 
 People and What it Costs to Live Well. 
 
 OOIMXEIMXS: 
 
 PART FIRST — Some Articles for the Show Case. The Lunch Counter. Restaurant Breakfasts, Lunches 
 and Dinners. Hotel Breakfasts, Dinners and Suppers. Oyster and Fish House Dishes. The Ice 
 Cream Saloon. Fine Bakery Lunch. Quaker Dairy Lunch. Confectionery Goods, Homemade 
 Beers, etc. 
 
 PART SECOND— Eight Weeks at a Summer Resort. A Diary. Otcr daily Bill of Fare and what it cosL^. 
 A Party Supper for Forty Cents per Plate. The Art of Charging- Enough. A School Commence- 
 ment Supper. Question of How Many Fires. Seven Fires for fifty persons vs. one Fire for fifty. 
 The Round of Beef for Steak. A Meat Block and Utensils. Bill of Groceries. A Month's Sufiply 
 Jor a Summer Boarding" House^ "with Prices. A Refrigerator Wanted. Aiiout keeping Provisions / 
 Restaurant Patterns. A Good Hotel Refrigerator. Cost of Ice to supply it. Shall we have a Bill of 
 Fare? Reasons why : a Blank Form. Is Fish Cheaper than Meat? Trouble with the Coffee. How to 
 Scrub the Kitchen. Trouble with Steam Chest and Vegetables. Trouble with the Oatmeal. Build- 
 ing a House with Bread Crusts. Puddings without Eggs. A Pastry and Store Room Necessary, 
 A Board on a Barrel. First Bill of Fare. Trouble with Sour Meats. Trouble with the Ice Cream . 
 The Landlord's Birthday Supper. Showing how rich atid fancy Cakes were made and iced and orna- 
 mented vjithout using Eggs, The Landlady's Birthday Supper. Trouble in Planning Dinners. 
 TiDi-b''- >vith Captain Johnson. Trouble in Serving Meals. Trouble with the Manager. Breakfasts 
 anc O' jjpers for Six Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for Ten Cents per Plate. Hotel Dinners for 
 Seventeen Cents per Plate. Supper for Forty for Eight Cents per Plate. Breakfast for Forty for 
 Nine Cents per Plate. An Expensive Wedding Breakfast, /o?" the Colonel and the Banker's Daughter. 
 Four Thousand Meals. Review. Groceries for 4,000. Meat, F'ish and Poultry for 4,000. Flour, 
 Sugar and Coffee for 4,000. Butter and Eggs for 4,000. Potatoes, Fresh Vegetables and Fruits for 
 4,000. Canned Fruits and Vegetables for 4,000. Milk and Cream for 4,000. Total Cost of Provisions 
 for 4,000. How to Save Twenty Dollars per Week. How Much we Eat. How Much we Drink. 
 How Much to Serve. Work and Wages. Laundry Work. Fuel, Light and Ice. Total Cott of 
 Board. How Much Profit? How Many Cooks to How Many People ? Boarding the Employees. 
 Boarding Children. Meals for Ten or Fifteen Cents. Country Board at Five Dollars. If — a Bundle 
 of Suppositions. Keeping Clean Side Towels. How Many F^ires — ^Again. A Proposal to Rent for 
 next Season. Conclusion. 
 
 THE CONTENTS ALSO INCLUDE: 
 
 One Hundred Different Bills of Fare, of Actual Meals, all with New Dishes; the Amount and the Cost 
 
 per Head. 
 Eleven Hundred Recipes. All live matter that every Cook needs— both by Weight and by Cup and 
 
 Spoon Measure. 
 i^ Dictionary of Coolcery, Comprised in the Explanations of Terms and General Information contained 
 
 in the Directions. 
 Artistic Cookery. Instructions in Ornamentation, with Illustrations, and Notes on the London Cookery 
 
 Exhibition of 1SS5. 
 
 it is thoroughly analytical, practical, readable, and the first book of the principles of the 
 systematic hotel-keeplns. 
 
 PRICE, POSTPAID, S3.00. 
 
 Address: 
 
 Jessup M^hitehead & ^o.y 
 
 PUBLISHERS OF HOTEL COOK BO*^ *M 
 
 ...''MICAQO, ILL. 
 
NUMBER 5, 
 
 The STEWARD'S Handbook 
 
 AND GUIDE TO PARTY CATERING. 
 BY JESSUP WHITEHEAD. 
 
 PRICE, POSTPAID, $3.00. 
 
 EMBRACES THE FOLLOWING: 
 
 PART FIRST— HOTEL STE WARDING. Showing the Internal Workings of 
 the Ameiican System of Hotel Keeping. The Steward's Duties in 
 Detail, and in Relation to Other Heads of Departments. Steward's 
 Storekeeping, Steward's Bookkeeping, and Management of Help. Also, 
 Composition of Bills of Fare, the Reasons Why, and NuTiierous Illus- 
 trative Menus of Meals on the American Plan. 
 
 PART SECOND — RESTAURANT STEWARDING. Co.nprising a Survey of 
 Various Styles of Restaurants and their Methods, Club Stewarding and 
 Catering, Public Party Catering, Ball Suppers, Base Ball Lunches, Hotel 
 Banquets, etc. ; How to Prepare and How to Serve Them, with Numer- 
 ous Pattern Bills of Fare Carried Out to Quantities, Cost and Price per 
 Head. 
 
 PART THIRD— COMPRISING CATERING FOR PRIVATE PARTIES. A 
 
 Guide to Party Catering. Wedding Breakfasts, Fantasies of Party 
 Givers, Model Small Menus, and Noteworthy Suppers, with Prices 
 Charged. Also, Catering on a Grand Scale. Original and Selected 
 Examples of Mammoth Catering Operations, Showing the Systems 
 Followed by the Largest Catering Establishments in the World. Also, 
 a Disquisition on Head Waiters and their Troops. 
 
 PART FOURTH— WHITEHEAD'S DICTIONARY OF DISHES, Culinary 
 Terms and Various Information Pertaining to the Steward's Depart- 
 ment, being the Essence of all Cook Books, Telling in Brief what all 
 Dishes and Sauces are or what they should Look Like. What Materials 
 are Needed for and what They are. How to Use to Advantage all Sorts 
 of Abundant Provisions, or How to Keep Them. Comprising, also, a 
 Valuable Collection of Restaurant Specialties, Distinctive National 
 Cookery, Remarks on Adulterations, and How to Detect Them, Treat- 
 ment and Service of Wine, and a Fund of Curious and Useful Informa- 
 tion in Dictionary Form, for Stewards, Caterers, Chefs, Bakers, and all 
 Hotel and Restaurant Keepers. 
 
 PART FIFTH — HOW TO FOLD NAPKINS. Abundantly Illustrated with 
 many Handsome Styles and Diagrams which Show how It is Done. 
 Address all Orders to 
 
 Jessup Whitehead & Co., 
 
 PUBLISHERS OF HOTEL COOK BOOKS, 
 
 CHICAGO, ILl 
 
WHITEHEAD'S 
 Professional Cookery BookSt 
 
 No. l.-THE AMERICAN PASTRY COOK. A 
 
 book of perfected Receipts, for making' a? 
 sorts of articles required of the Hotel Pastry 
 Cook, Baker and Confectioner. Cloth, $2.0U. 
 
 No. 2.-H0TEL MEAT COOKING. Comprising 
 Hotel and Restaurant Fish and Oyster Cook- 
 ing. How to Cut Meats, and Soups, Entrees 
 and Bills of Fare. Cloth, $2 00. 
 
 No. 3. -WHITEHEAD'S FAMILY COOK BOOK. 
 High-class cookery for families and party - 
 givers, including Book of Breads and Cakes. 
 Cloth, $1.50. 
 
 N0.4.-COQKIN6 FOR PROFIT and Eig:ht Weeks 
 at a Summer Resort. A new American Cook 
 Book adapted for the use of all who serve 
 meals for a nrice. Cloth, $3.00. 
 
 No. 5.-THE STEWARD'S HANDBOOK and Guide 
 to Party Catering, Stewarding, Bills of Fare, 
 2L.nAz. Dictionary <?/ Z>wA*.9 and Culinary Terms 
 and Specialties. Cloth, $3.00. 
 
 All books sent postpaid on receipt of price. 
 
 Jessup Whitehead <& Co, 
 
 Publishers of Hotel Cook Booke 
 Chicago^ III, 
 
k I 
 
 OAY TTSE 
 
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 FORM NO. DD 1 A, 3m 6V6 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY 
 
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