THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES GIFT OF Commodore Byron Mc Candle ss ^i J - A LADY'S CRUISE FEENCH MAN-OF-WAR ' The morning wjiteh was eoiiic ; tlie vessel lay Her course, and gently made her liquid way ; Tlie cloven liillow flashed from off her prow In furrows formed, by that majestic plough. ' Huzza for Otaheite ! ' was the cry. The gentle island and the genial soil, The friendly heai-ts, the feasts without a toil, The courteous manners, but from nature caught, Tlie weaUh unlioarded, and the love unbought. The soil where every cottage showed a home. The sea-spread net, the lightly launched canoe, Which stemmed the studded archipelago O'er whose blue bosom rose the stiirry isles. And sweetly now, those untaught melodies Brolointed Chairman (or as ■we niiglit say, Weslej-an Bishop) of Tongatabu. Mr Baker has ceased to ■work in connection ■with the mission, and now acts as riinie Minister to King George. HIGH MASS AT NUKUALOFA. 11 out to do a little preliminary milking, that slie might give me a cup of delicious fresh milk, and with it she brought me some lovely blossoms from the little garden in which the Sisters cultivate tall French lilies and a few other flowers to mingle with the abundant pink oleanders, in their church decorations. After vespers, the day's work being done, they came to my cell, and we all sat down on the mats and had a pleasant little gossip. I think that a breath from the outside wicked world cannot quite have lost all charm, and two at least of these ladies have evidently lived in good French society. ]^ow they have gone to their cells, and there is hot a sound in the quiet night. My door opens on to a verandah leading into the garden, and just beyond lies a peace- ful burial-ground — neatly kept graves of Christian Tongans, some marked with simple crosses, and overgrown Avith Howers. ^Now I must say good-night, as to-morrow Avill be a long day. Monday 10th, On Sunday morning I was awakened before dawn by hearing the Sisters astir. They were lighting their own tiny chapel, where, at sunrise, they had an early celebration, in order that they might not be obliged to remain fasting till the later service. At 7.30 they brought me cafe au lait in my cell, and at 8 we went together to high Mass in the large native church. Of course there was a very full congregation, as, the better to impress the native mind, all the French sailors were paraded, to say nothing of all the officers, who, dressed in full uniform, Avere ranged in a semi- circle inside the altar-rails, on shoAV — a A-^ery trying position, espe- cially to the excellent captain, avIio, though a thoroughly good man, would scarcely be selected as a very rigid Catholic. Indeed I can- not think that devotion to the Church is a marked characteristic of this mission ship. Accustomed only to see the good bishop in his ordinary garb of rusty black and faded purple, it was startling to see him assume the gorgeous Episcopal vestments of gold brocade Avith scarlet linings ■ — the mitre, which was put off and on so frequently at different parts of the service, and all the other ecclesiastical symbols. The 12 A LADY S CRUISE. friendly priests, too, were hard to recogiiise in their richly brocaded vestments ; and I confess that to my irreverent eyes the predom- inance of yellow and scarlet, and a good many other things besides, forcibly recalled the last gorgeous ritualistic services I had witnessed in many Buddhist temples in Ceylon, and on the borders of Thibet. Such im])ressions tend to wandering thoughts, and mine, I fear, are apt to become rather " mixed." Anyhow it was a relief when the scarlet and gold vestments Avere replaced by purple, Avith beautiful white lace. All the accessories were excellent. A native played the harmonium well, and Tongan enfants de chceur chanted the ser- vice admirably. Altogether the scenic effect was striking. Chairs had been provided for all the foreigners present, and of course I sat with the Sisters, though it would have seemed more natural to curl up on a mat beside the native women, as we do in Fiji. These Catholic Tongans so far retain their former customs, that they continue to sit on the ground, although the polished wooden floor, which has replaced the soft grass and mats of old days, is not exactly a luxurious seat. In the Wesleyan churches, which are here built as much as possible on ugly foreign models, regular benches are the rule. I trust it will be long ere our simple and suitable churches in Fiji are replaced by buildings of that sort. I grieve to say that this is by no means the only point in which the natives here have departed from primitive custom. N^ot content with the noble work of utterly exterminating idolatry and cannibalism, the teachers in these isles are afflicted with an unwholesome belief in foreign garments, and by every means in their power encourage the adoption of European cloth and unbecoming dresses ; consequently many of the Tongan men glory in full suits of black, while some of the girls appear in gaudy and vulgar hats, trimmed Avith artificial flowers. Imagine these surmounting a halo of spiral curls ! Is it not strange that this admirable mission, Avhich has done such magnificent Avork in these isles, cannot be content to alloAV its Tongan converts the same liberty in outer matters as its wise repre- sentatives in Fiji alloAv their congregations 1 Here the " gold ring and goodly apparel " are promoted to the foremost stiff benches. TORTOISE-SHELL BONNETS ! 13 There tlie distracting " care for raiment " is reduced to a minimum, and all the people kneel together devoutly, on the soft accustomed mats, in houses of the same type as their cool pleasant homes, without a thought that a building of a European type, with hard uncomfortable seats, and unbecoming foreign clothes, can render their prayer and praise more acceptable to their Father in heaven, Nothing astonishes me more, in reading any of the early mis- sionary records of grand work done in these seas, than the frequent laudatory allusions to the general adoption by the converts of some fearful and wonderful head-dress, in imitation of the hideous bonnets of our grandmothers, and worn by the wives of the early missionaries. Immense praise was bestowed on the ingenious females who, under the direction of those excellent women, suc- ceeded in manufacturing coal-scuttle bonnets of cocoa-palm leaves. Still more startling was the same monstrous form, when cunningly joined pieces of thin tortoise - shell were the materials used to imitate the brown silk bonnet of England ! We may well rejoice that these horrors are no longer an integral feature of Christianity in the South Seas ! It is sufficiently dreadful to see the ultra " respectable " classes donning coats, waistcoats, and trousers. Immediately after service I returned to luncheon on board, to be ready to start with Monseigneur Elloi for Mua, which is the principal lloman Catholic station here, distant about twelve miles. A large man-of-war boat with twelve rowers carried the bishop's party, which consisted of two Fathers, and four of the ship's officers. Several others got horses and rode across the isle. A party of Tongan students filled another boat. "Wind, tide, and current being against us, the journey took three hours. It is a dreary coast, everywhere bound by a wide expanse of villanous shore-reef, which makes landing simply impossible. The approach to Mua is by a channel which seemed to me several miles long, and is like a river cut through the reef, which edges it on either side. Here we rowed against a sweeping current, and the men had hard work to make way. On reaching Mua we found the riders awaiting us, and a great procession of priests, headed by P^re Chevron, a fine grey-haired 14 A lady's cruise. old man, wlio lias been toiling here for thirty-five years. Scarlet and ■svhite-ruhed acolytes and others, carried really handsome flags and banners. Their chanting was excellent. They escorted the bishop to the beautiful Tongan church, which is a building of purely native type, with heavy thatch, and all the posts, beams, and other timbers are fastened together without the use of a single nail. All are tied with strong vines from the forests, and plaited over with sennit — i.e., string of divers fibres, — of hybiscus, cocoa-palm, pandanus, and other plants, ranging in colour through all shades of yellow, brown, and black. These are laid on in beautiful and most intricate pat- terns, and form a very effective and essentially Polynesian style of decoration. The altar, which is entirely of native manufacture, is really very fine. It is made of various island woods, inlaid with whales'-tooth ivory and mother-of-pearl. All the decorations in this church are in excellent taste, and bespeak most loving care. Here, as at Maofanga, comfort is sacrificed to appearance by the substitution of a polished wooden floor for the accustomed mats. I cannot say I think this an improvement, as it is a hard seat during a long service. However, on this occasion I did not experience its discomfort, for, shocking to say, in view of the example to the natives, none of us attended the service, but all went off at once, guided by M. Pinart (whose antiquarian instincts had already led him thither), to the tombs of the Toui-Tongas, the old kings of Tonga. They are formed of gigantic blocks of volcanic rock, said to have been brought to these flat isles from the Wallis group. They are laid in three courses of straight lines, like cyclopean walls, and lie at intervals through the bush. They are much overgrown with tangled vegetation, especially with the widespreading roots of many banyan trees, and though wonderful, are not sketchable. In olden days, when the Toui-Tonga was here laid to his rest, his favourite wife and most valued possessions were buried with him. All his subjects, young and old, male and female, shaved their heads and mourned for four months. Those engaged in pre- paring his sacred body for the grave were obliged to live apart for ten months, as being tahu or sacred. CYCLOPEAN TOMBS. 15 "When the corj-jse had been deposited on tliis great burial-mound, all the men, women, and children assembled, and sat round in a great circle, bearing large torches made of dried palm-leaves. Six of the principal men then walked several times round and round the place of burial, in sunwise procession, waving the blazing torches on high ; finally, these were extinguished and laid on tlie ground. Then all the people arose and made the sunwise circuit of the TOjal tombs, as has been done from the earliest days, by men of all nations and colours,^ and then they, too, extinguished the emblematic torches, and laid them on the earth, in memory of him whose flame of life had passed away for ever from the poor dead clay. This ceremony was repeated on fourteen successive nights. The mystery in all antiquities of this sort lies in the problem, how a race possessed only of stone adzes could possibly have hewn these huge blocks in the first instance, and how they then transported them on their frail canoes across wide distances of open sea. Tombs of the same character were common to all these groups, and were called marais. They combined the purj)ose of mausoleums of, the chiefs, and of temples where human and other sacrifices were offered. Some of them were of gigantic dimensions. Captain Cook described one at Paparra in Tahiti, which consisted of an immense pyramid, 267 feet long by 87 wide, standing on a i)avement measuring 360 feet by 354. On its summit stood a wooden image of a bird, and a fish carved in stone, representing the crea- tures especially reverenced by that tribe. The pyramid was, in fact, a huge cairn of round pebbles, " which, from the regularity of their figure, seem to have been wrought." It was faced with great blocks of white coral, neatly squared and polished, and laid in regular courses, forming eleven great steps, each of which was 4 feet high, so that the height of the pile was 44 feet. Some of these stones were upwards of 3 feet in length and 2| in width. The pavement on which the pyramid was 1 For munerous instances of this, see 'From the Hebrides to the Iliuialaj'as' (C. F. Gordon Cuiiiining), vol. i. pp. 203-210. 16 A LADYS CRUISE. built was of volcanic rock, also hewn into shape, some of the stones being even larger than the coral blocks, and all perfectly- joined together, without mortar. As Captain Cook found no trace of any quarry in the neighbour- hood, he inferred that these blocks must have been carried from a considerable distance ; and even the coral with which the pyramid Avas faced, lies at least three feet under the water. The question, therefore, which puzzled him, as it does us this day, was, How did these savages, ignorant of all mechanical appliances, and possess- ing no iron tools, contrive to hew these wonderful mnrais, which were the temples and tombs of every Polynesian group? The majority Avere pulled to pieces by the natives when they aban- doned idolatry, but happily for the antiquarian, some of the tombs of the mighty dead escaped these over -zealous reformers; and though the coral altars are no longer polluted by human blood, the grey ruins still remain, now overgrown by forest-trees, and more solemn in their desolation than when those hideous rites were practised by the poor savages at the bidding of ruthless priests. In the course of our walk Ave saw some lovely little pigeons, bright green Avith purple head, and a number of larger ones, green and yelloAv. Also many small bats skimming about the cocoa- palms, darting to and fro in pursuit of the insects which make their home in the crown of the tree. Towards dusk a multitude of fruit-bats Avith soft fur appeared, flapping on heavy Aving, and feeding on the floAvers of various tall trees. AVe also noticed a number of tree swifts, reminding us forcibly of our OAvn swallows : like them they skim airily about the houses, but instead of resting Tinder the eaves, they seek a safer home in the tall palms. Eeturning to the village, Ave lingered beneath the fine old trees known as Captain Cook's, till summoned by the Fathers to supper at their house, Avhich stands close to the church. They gave us the best they had, — namely, salt-junk and villanously cooked cab- bage, Avhereat their naval guests secretly groaned, and bewailed the excellent cuisine they had left on board ; but to these good ascetics such fare seemed too luxurious, so, although it was Sunday, and a A KIND SCOTCHWOMAN. 17 great festival, they would taste nothing but a few slices of yam. I find them most interesting companions, having been so long in the isles, that they are familiar with all details of native manners and customs. The old P^re Chevron is particularly pleasant. He has worked here for several years longer than our good old friend Pfere Breheret of Levuka, to whom he bade me send his loving greetings, which I hope you will deliver. After supper with the Fathers, a kind Scotchwoman, Mrs Bar- nard, the only white woman in the place, came to take me to her house for the night, where she made me most comfortable, though I could not but fear that she and her husband had given me their own room. He is agent for a merchant's house in the colonies. I found my hostess was a Cameron from Lochaber, who has retained her pure Gaelic tongue, and speaks both it and English, with the sweet intonation ascribed to the Princess of Thule. Great was her delight when she learnt the real name of her guest, and many a pleasant reminiscence she had to tell of certain of my own nearest kindred. . . . "We talked of mutual friends in the dear old north and on the west coast, and many a touching memory was reawakened for us both. Verily the ends of the world are bound by tender human links ! My hostess was herself astir long before dawn, to prepare break- fast for her countrywoman, as I was to make an early expedition with my French friends to Haamonga, distant about eight miles, to see a wonderful trilithon. The Fathers lent us their dogcart, but had no horse. However, they succeeded in borrowing one, which ]\r. Pinart volunteered to drive. It proved a brisk trotter, and we sped along cheerily. Most of the others rode, escorted by two hanaques — a word which, though it simply means " a man," is used by the French as a generic term for all manner of islanders in Xorth and South Pacific. It was a lovely morning and a delightful drive, over a good broad grass road — the bush on either side fragrant with jessamine, and the trees in many places matted with such tangles of large, brilliantly blue convolvulus as I have seen nowhere else but in the Himalayas. The Idac marine ipomea abounds everywhere, and we B 18 A lady's cruise. passed dense masses of the large-leaved Avhite sort. From tlicse lovely hiding-places flashed green pigeons and blue kingfishers, startled by our approach. Tall sugar-cane, wild ginger with scarlet blossom, and blue clitoria, with here and there a clump of glossy bananas or quaint papawa, kept up the tropical character of the vegetation. We had no difficulty in finding the great dolmen of which we were in search. It stands on a grassy lawn, surrounded by bush, and is certainly a remarkable object. It differs from all other trilithons I have seen or heard of, in that the two supporting pillars are cut out at the top to secure the transverse capstone, which is hewn. The height above ground is 15 feet, length 18 feet, and the width 12 feet. K'o thing whatever is known concerning its origin, and the natives have apparently no tradition concerning it. This is the oidy rude stone monument I have seen in the Pacific, but I am told that others have been observed in different groups, though on a smaller scale ; for instance, in the Society Isles, where the great altar of the principal tnarai on Huahine is a large slab of unhewn stone, resting on three boulders. Around it are the rock- terraces which formed the rude temple. At Haamonga the cyclopean trilithon stands alone. All others known to us, such as those at Stonehenge, at Tripoli, Algeria, and in Central America, are found in connection with circles of huge stones, to which they have apparently been the gateway ; but here there does not appear to have been any circle, not even a detached dolmen. In its weird solitude it most resembles the cromlech of Byjnath in Bengal; but what may be its story none can possibly guess. One thing only is certain, that these grey stones were brought here by some long-forgotten race, who little dreamt, when they raised this ponderous monument, that a day would come when it shoiUd survive as the sole proof that they ever existed. We have been told that within the memory of persons now living, an enormous liava bowl stood on the horizontal stone, and that most solemn and sacred drinking festivals were held here. It O uj Z _J O io -■- > ^ _j MAKCH OF FASHIOX. 19 is very probable that this may have been the case, as the people would, in heathen days, very naturally retain some tradition of reverence for the trilithon, as the peasants of Brittany, and, I may say, of Britain, do for similar erections to the present day, as- sembling for annual festivals at " the stones," though the origin of Carnac, Stonehenge, and Stennis, is as unknown as that of Haamonga. Eeturning to the village we saw that the church was crowded, and that there were a number of candidates for confirmation. Judging that the service would occupy some time, and being anxious to see as much of the neighbourhood as possible, we drove along the coast to a particularly fine banyan, noted in Captain Cook's chart, and beneath its shadow we rested awhile, and enjoyed a very pleasant half-hour overlooking a calm, beautiful sea. "We reached Mua just as the congregation was dispersing, and were troubled with some qualms on the score of our bad example, but the considerate bishop gave us full absolution, I regret to say that a considerable proportion of the people were like hideously- dressed-up apes, masculine and feminine — many of the former in seedy black clothes, and some of the latter attired in gay flimsy silk gowns, inflated with large crinolines, and with baby hats, trimmed Avitli pink and blue flowers, stuck on the top of their fuzzy heads. Hitherto, as you know, my ideas of Tongans have been derived only from the stately men and women who have settled in Fiji, and there, like their neighbours, have retained the graceful drapery of native cloth. Here the influence of certain persons interested in trade is so strong, that the manufacture of tuppa is discouraged by every possible means ; and a heavy penalty attaches to making it on any, except one, day in the week. It seems that this law was passed in King George's absence, and I am happy to learn that he was exceedingly angry — -though, as yet, the laAv stands unrepealed, and the manufacture is doomed to cease altogether this year, AVhoever is to blame, the system of taxation and fines is some- thing astounding. A woman who is found without a pinafore, even in her own house, is fined two dollars, no matter Iioav ample 20 A lady's cruise. is lier petticoat. Slioukl she venture beyond lier tlireshold minus this garment, she is liable to a fine of three dollars. If caught smoking, she is fined two and a half dollars, and one and a half dollar costs. Imagine such legislation for a people whose highest proof of reverence in olden days was to strip themselves to the waist in presence of their king, or on approaching a sacred spot, and who still consider any upper garment as altogether superfluous — a people, moreover, whose very nature it is to be for ever rolling up minute cigarettes for themselves and their friends ! The most atrocious of all the regulations is one inflicting a fine of ten dollars on any man found without a shirt, though wearing such a sulu (kilt) as would in Fiji be considered full dress, either at church or Government House. One of the lads told" us he had actually been made to pay this fine a few days ago, having put off" his shirt while fishing. Wet or dry they must wear the unaccus- tomed foreign clothing, instead of the former coating of oil, which made these people as impervious to water as so many ducks. But whether by compulsion or for vainglory, the hideous foreign clothes are worn during the burning heat of the day ; then, under the friendly veil of night, comfort and economy are consulted by dis- pensing with superfluous garments ; and so the heavy night-dews act with double power, and chills produce violent coughs, which too often end in consumption and death. ^ 1 I am happy to say that the kinc,''s good sense carried the day, and enabled the wishes of the people to find an independent voice. In July 1879, King George formally opened a Tongan Parliament, at which, for the first time, rej^resentatives of the people were present, under the new constitution, to discuss all questions relating to their own wellbeing. Ere the close of the session, in the middle of September, the law prohibiting the manufacture and wearing of native cloth, and rendering certain articles of clothing compulsory, was abolished. Men and women are now permitted to wear any clothes they please, in doors or out, provided, of course, that they are decently clad according to South Sea interpretation of the word. The only exception to this happy rule of liberty is the interior of the Wesleyan Church at Nukualofa, Avhere it is still necessary for men to appear in full European dress — coat, trousers, shoes, &c. — and for women to wear bonnets and dresses ! Those who cannot, or will not, comply with this regulation, must stay outside the sanctuary. The prohibition against women smoking was also modified. Doubtless the revenue will suft'er from the diminution of fines, but that can scarcely be a matter of much regret. Various other wise measures were passed, showing that the Ton- PAPUAN PHYSIQUE. 21 These people, like most kindred races when brought in contact with civilisation, are fast dying out. I believe there are now only about 9000 in the Tongan group, 5000 on Happai, and 5000 in Vavau district. They certainly are a very fine well-built race, with clear yellowish-broAvn skin and Spanish colouring ; they also resemble Spaniards or Italians in their animation of expression, — the muscles of the forehead working in a most remarkable manner, especially to express wonder or interest. They have fine faces, well-developed forehead, strong chin, and features generally like those of an average good-looking European. Not the slightest approach to the " blubber lips and monkey faces " of negro races, or of the isles lying nearer to the equator. On the contrary, the mouth is well formed, and shows beautiful teeth. The eyes are invariably dark brown, generally large and clear. The beard, moustaches, and eyebrows are allowed to retain their natural glossy black ; but, as in Fiji, the hair is dyed of a light sienna by fre- quent washing in coral-lime, and encircles the head with a yellow halo, strangely in contrast with the dark eyes and eyebrows. Like that of the Papuan, rather than the pure Polynesian races, it takes the form of a mop of innumerable very fine spiral cm-Is, of which each individual hair twists itself into a tight corkscrew. It is crisp and glossy, and very elastic ; and if you draw it out full length, it at once springs back to its natural form. Some of the women now allow their hair to grow quite long. Both men and women march along with a proud overbearing gait that always gives one an impres- sion that they look on all other races with something of contempt. gans have awakened to understand the folly of attempting to introduce the manners and customs of foreign countries, without reference to the requirements and neces- sities of their own people. Consequently several excellent Tongan customs relative to tenure of lands, tribes, and status of the people, are now legalised ; and the representatives have shown their strong and sensible desire to retain all that was good in their national code of laws, but which had been put away, together with things evil, at the suggestion of resident foreigners. That the latter were so effectually prevented from unduly influencing the young Parliament, was doubtless due to the presence of H.B.M. Deputy-Coniunssioner for Tonga, A. P. Maudslay, and of Mr Wilkinson, both of whom have been engaged in the establishment of the new Government in Fiji, and well know the wisdom of ruling a semi-civilised race by retaining, so far as is possible, their own ancient feudal customs. 22 A lady's cruise. Our morning's work had given us such keen appetites that we did more than justice to the breakfast which awaited us at the Fathers' house, though it must be confessed that the fare was of the coarsest ; it was, however, tlie very best they had to offer, and was evidently considered quite a feast. My comrades congratulated one another that such viands did not often fall to their lot ! Immediately after breakfast we started on our return journey with a high tide. "Wind and current being in our favour, we flew down the river-like passage through the wide coral-reef, which we had ascended with such toil, and less than two hours brought us back to the good ship, and to cordial greeting from her genial captain. He had invited King George of Tonga and his grandson to dine on board, to meet the bishop and the Fathers, and I was invited to join the party. The king, who ought properly to be called Tupou or Toubo, which is the surname of all the royal family, was received with a salute of twenty-one guns — the ship dressed and yards manned, with sailors shouting " Vive la Ee- publique ! " (an institution to which, I fancy, that most men on board are profoundly indifferent — in fact several are declared royalists, and faithful adherents of Henri V.) The Tongans were duly conducted all over the ship, and ex- amined machinery, guns, men's quarters, and every detail, with apparent interest. A long dinner followed, from which I escaped as soon as I conveniently could. The king is a very fine old man, in height about 6 feet 2 inches. He was dressed in a general's full uniform, and his grandson in that of an aide-de-camp — cocked-hat, &c. I confess I think that Thakombau and Maafu, in their drapery of Fijian tappa, are far more imposing figures. The king's son, Unga, is at present seri- ously ill. His three sons govern the three groups into which tliis island-kingdom of Tonga divides itself — namely, Tongatabu, Happai, and Vavau. There are only about sixty isles in all, and their area is about 600 square miles ; so this is a small matter compared with the 7000 square miles of Fiji. I am told that here the land all belongs to the king, so that any one wishing to settle can only do so as a tenant, leasing land from his INIajesty. NIGHT CHILLS AND DEWS. 23 The feast being over, le Roi hxnaque departed amid blue and green lights, one of •which was reserved for us — i.e., the ecclesi- astical party — returning to the priest's house and to the convent, Avhere the pleasant Sisters awaited me with kindest welcome ; and we all sat on the mats in my cell and chatted for a while. Xow I am so very cold that I must go to bed. I think this climate must be far more trying than that of Fiji. The heat in the daytime feels to me greater, and every night is bitterly cold, necessitating piles of rugs and blankets ; while the dew is so drenching that the roofs always drip as if there had been heavy rain. I do not wonder at the delicate little Soeur Marie having fallen into consumption. It carries off many strong natives. Tuesday Night. "Wasn't it just cold when I left off writing ! I lay awake shiver- ing for two hours, though wrapped up in blanket, cloak, and big tartan plaid. I find that the island of Tongatabii is known all over the group as the cold isle, and I am ready to endorse the title. I devoted this forenoon to a sketch of this hospitable cottage- convent, and in the afternoon went alone to see Mrs Eaker, who took me to visit the queen — a fine old lady, but very helpless, having dislocated her hip by a fall eight years ago. She was sitting on the bare boards in a wretched little room of a small house close to the large villa or palace in which King George receives his guests, but in which he never lives, preferring that his home should be fuka Tonga — i.e.. adhering to native customs so far as is consistent with keeping up appearances. But here, again, we were struck by the uncomfortable substitution of a hard wooden floor for the soft mats of a truly native home. As civilised houses are glazed, the poor old queen, though much oppressed with lieat, sat beside a glass window, shaded by a filthy tattered rag which had once been a curtain, but which in its palmiest days had been immeasurably inferior to a handsome drapery of native cloth : in- deed the only symptom of comfort in the place was a curtain of Fijian tappa. 24 A LADY S CRUISE. The king and his chiefs were in council over church matters in a small room adjoining the queen's, so we had to talk in whispers. Various female relations were grouped round the door, making the hot room still hotter. I am much struck by tlie fact that these proud Tongans make use of no titles. The Fijians always prefix the word Andi — i.e., Lady — to the name of a woman of rank ; but here the name is used bluntly, whether in addressing a prin- cess or her handmaid. Hearing of the grave assembly of the chiefs to discuss the affairs of the Wesleyan Church, brought back vividly to my mind all that I had heard in former days of this very King George, and of the prominent part taken by him in rousing these islanders to abandon their gross heathenism and cannibalism. So effectual has been his work, that now not one trace of these old evils remains, and these islanders are looked upon as old-established Christians. I had a pleasant walk back in the twilight, along the broad grass road which runs parallel with the sea, and am now spending my last evening in this peaceful convent. I am truly sorry that it is the last, for it will feel like leaving real friends to part from these kind Sisters, who make much of me, and do enjoy coming to sit with me in the evenings for a little quiet chat. They bring all my meals in here, as it is against their rules to allow me to feed with them in. the refectory. In this respect they are far more rigorous than the Fathers, who, as you know, have invited me to supper and breakfast at their house. CHAPTEE III. SAIL FROM TONGA TO VAVAU — VOLCANO OF TOFUA — WESLEYAN MISSrON — TWO THOUSAND MILES FKOM A DOCTOR — OEANGE-GROVES — A LOVELY SEA- LAKE — CORAL CAVES. On Board Le Seignelay, Wednesday, V2th Scytcmbcr 1S77. Here I am once more safely ensconced in my favourite niche, which is the carriage of a big gun. Filled with red cushions, it makes a capital sofa, and is a cosy, quiet corner, and a capital THE DEVIL S FIRE. 25 point of observation, whence, "without being in the way, I can look down on the various manoeuvres on deck — parades, gun- jDractice, fire-parade, and so forth. We embarked this morning early, the four Sisters, by special sanction of the bishop, coming to see the last of me, and to breakfast with M. Aube ; — an out- rageous piece of dissipation, tliey said, but almost like once again setting foot in France. Four of the priests likewise escorted the bishop, and we had an exceedingly cheerful ecclesiastical breakfast- party, after which came a sorrowful parting, and then we sailed away from Tonga, taking with us the Pere Padel, a fine old Ereton Father. We are now passing through the Happai group, and hope to- night to catch a glimpse of the volcano of Tofua, or, as it is also called by the natives, Coe aft a Devolo (the Devil's fire). It is a perfect volcanic cone 2500 feet in height, densely wooded to the edge of the crater. Strange to say, though the isle simply con- sists of this one active volcano, there is said to be a lake on the summit of the mountain. It is not stated to be a geyser ; but the Tongans who visit it bring back small black pebbles, which they strew on the graves of their dead. The Happai group consists of about forty small isles, some purely volcanic, and others, as usual, combining coral on a volcanic foundation. About twenty of these are inhabited. Neiafu, Vavau, Thursday Evening. The volcano proved to be quiescent. Not even a curl of luminous smoke betrayed its character. The sea, however, made amends by the brilliancy of its phosphoric lights. It was a dead calm, and from beneath the surface shone a soft mellow glow, caused, I am told, by vast shoals of living creatures, as though the mermaids were holding revel beneath the waves, and had sum- moned all their luminous subjects to join in the dance, I know few things in nature more fascinating than this lovely fairy-like illumination. Its tremulous glow and occasional brilliant shooting flashes are to me always suggestive of our own northern lights — a sort of marine aurora. 26 A LADY S CRUISE, Our course this morning was very pretty, steaming for many miles through narroAV and intricate passages between the richly wooded headlands of Yavau, the great island, and many outlying islets. Finally, we anchored in what seemed like a quiet land- locked lake, at the village of Keiafu. The bishop went ashore at once, and was reverently welcomed by tAvo priests, one of whom, Pere Ercton, has been here for about thirty years, living a life so ascetic as to amaze even his brethren, so completely does mind appear to have triumphed over matter. AVe sinners all agree that having each been intrusted with the care of an excellent animal, we are only doing our duty by feeding and otherwise caring for it to the best of our ability. So the ascetic example is one which we reverence, but haA'e no intention of following, cold water and yam, day after day, being truly unin- viting. But the old man has not forgotten how to be genial and kind to others, and is a general favourite. The Eoraan Catholic flock here is sniall, as is also the church, which, however, is very neat. The Wesleyan Mission flourishes here, as it does throughout these Friendly Isles. In the three groups — namely, Tonga, Happai, and Yavau, it has 125 chapels, with an average attendance of 19,000 persons, of whom 8000 are church members. Four white missionaries superintend the work of 13 native ministers, upwards of 100 schoolmasters, and above 1.50 local preachers. At the Tubou Theological College — so named in honour of King George Tubou — there are about 100 students preparing for work as teachers or pastors. I landed with M. Pinart, and a half-caste Samoan woman, who could talk some English, acted as our interpreter with the widow of the late " governor," a large comely woman, who invited us to her cool Tongan house, where friendly, pleasant-looking girls peeled delicious oranges faster than we could eat them. This whole village and district is one orange-grove ; every house is embowered in large orange-trees — the earth is strewn with their fruit, the air fragrant. AM^iat an enchanting change after Tonga, where there are no orange- trees, and where a sense of stifi'ness and over-regulation seemed to pervade life ! "WANTED, A DOCTOR, 27 The present " governor " is a fine tall young cliief, rejoicing in the name of Wellington. He is acting for his father, Unga, King George's illegitimate son, whom he has declared heir to the throne, but who is at present in very bad health. The young chief seems inclined to hold the reins firmly and well. But at present the Vavau chiefs are in some disgrace with King George, as they are suspected of plotting against Unga, in favour of Maafu.^ Having eaten oranges to our hearts' content, we continued our walk to the Wesleyan Mission, and on our way thither met the Eev. Fox on his way to the ship, to see if we had a doctor on board. The latter having already gone ashore, we returned together to the house — a quiet pleasant home, but for the present saddened by the serious illness of the young wife, who, a few weeks ago, gave birth to her first child. As Vavau can furnish neither nurse nor doctor, the wife of the missionary in Happai had, at great personal inconvenience, come thence in an open canoe to officiate on the occasion. She had, however, been compelled to return soon afterwards to her own nurslings, leaving the young mother and her baby in charge of native women. A very slow recovery, accompanied with some unfavourable symptoms, had pro- duced such depression and alarm, that just before our arrival, the poor husband had actually been making arrangements for his wife's return to Sydney for proper medical care. But, to get there, in- volved, in the first instance, a journey of about 200 miles in an open canoe to reach Tonga, Avhence she would have to proceed alone, in a wretched little sailing vessel, on a voyage of upwards of 2000 miles (as the crow flies) — a serious undertaking for a woman in robust health, but a terrible prospect for an invalid witli a young baby. Happily the timely arrival of the Seignelay dispelled this night- mare. M. Thoulon, the good kind doctor (himself pere de famiUc), at once vetoed the rash arrangement, and his well-applied wisdom, and kind encouraging words, have already restored heart to the ^ A great Tongan chief, settled in Fiji, who, up to the time of annexation, contested with Thakomhau for the supremacy. I have just received news of his death. 28 A LADYS CUUISE. dispirited young wife; while a congenial talk with M. Pinart on. the sul)ject of Polynesian dialects and races, has helped to cheer the husband, who, later, took us to see his schools, pleasantly situated on a wooded hill, commanding a lovely view of the land- locked harbour. Then strolling back through the orange-groves, we returned on board, where I am now "writing. The captain and several of the officers have gone off duck-shooting, and expect good sport. Saturday Evening, Yesterday morning, after a very early breakfast, I went ashore at 6.30 with M. Pinart and Dr Thoulon. Mr Fox was waiting at the pier, and returned with us to the mission-house, where we found the patient already on the mend. I acted the part of inter- preter for the doctor, who was happily able to supply, as well as prescribe, all needful remedies and tonics. So when we returned this afternoon to say good-bye, the young mother looked like a different creature — so bright and happy. Truly a blessed skill is that of the kindly leech ! The previous evening Mr Fox had undertaken to borrow some horses, and escort us to the summit of " The Pudding," a wooded hill, commanding a splendid map-like view of the strangely inter- sected land and water on every side of us. The isles lie so close, one to the other, that we could scarcely believe we were looking on the ocean, and not rather on a network of clear calm lakes and rivers. All the isles appear to be densely wooded, but at intervals along the shore we could distinguish villages nestling among the trees. One small island has recently been ceded to the Germans as a coaling station, and there seems some reason for anxiety lest this small foothold should be taken further advantage of. Our ride in the early morning was exceedingly pleasant. I had insured my own comfort by bringing my side-saddle ashore. By some mistake we found that the stirrup had been left in Fiji ; but happily, on such a ship as this, to want a thing is to have it, and I hear that a new stirrup and strap are to be ready for me ere we reach Samoa. On the summit of the hill we found breakfast all A CORAL CAVE. VAVAU. A FAIKY GROT. 20 ready, a party of natives from the mission having made an early start with tea, yams, ham and eggs — all of which had been cooked gipsy -fashion. To this foundation we added the contents of a hamper, which the thoughtful captain had directed his maitre d.hotel to send with us. So we had a royal feast, and then I settled down to do a bird's-eye sketch of the strange world out- spread below, while gentle and rather pretty brown girls, with sienna hair, sat by, peeling oranges by the dozen, with which they fed us all incessantly. It is the part of true hospitality to peel oranges for a guest, as their thick green skins contain so much essential oil, that the mere act of removing them makes the hands very oily and uncomfortable. Woe betide the rash and thirsty stranger who puts the green fruit to his lips to suck it, as he might a golden orange in Europe. For many hours the burning pain of almost blistered lips will remind him of his folly. Returning to the village, we found a large ten-oared boat waiting for us, the captain having most kindly placed it at our disposal, to enable us to explore the coast. Mr Fox guided us to a truly exquisite cave, about five miles distant. Never before, in all my wanderings, had my eyes been gladdened by such an ideal fairy grot. We rowed along the face of beautiful crags, which we had passed on the previous day without a suspicion of the wonderful hiding-place within them. Suddenly we steered right into a narrow opening, and found ourselves in a threat vaulted cavern like a grand cathedral — a coral cave, with huge white stalactites hanging in clusters from the roof, and forming a perfect gallery along one side, from which we could almost fancy that white-veiled nuns were looking down on us. The great outer cave is paved with lapis-lazuli, at least with water of the purest ultra-marine, which was reflected in rippling shimmers of blue and green on the white marble roof. For the sun was lowering, and shone in glory through the western arch- way, lighting up the mysterious depths of a great inner cavern, which otherwise receives but one ray of light from a small opening far overhead, through which we saw blue sky and green leaves. 30 A lady's cruise. !N'o scene-painter coulJ have devised so romantic a picture for any fairy pantomime. Tlie French sailors were ecstatic in their delight. They collected piles of old cocoa-nut fibre and dry palm-leaves and kindled bright blazing fires, whose ruddy light glowed on the dark crevices, which even the setting sun could not reach, and blended with the blue and green reflected lights, and both played on the white coral walls, and the white boat, and white figures — (for of course, in the tropics, the sailors all wear their Avhite suits). Soon these active lads contrived to reach the gallery, and glided behind the stalactite pillars, making the illusion of the nuns' gallery still more perfect. Altogether it was a scene of dream-like loveliness. All this coast is cavernous, and most tempting to explore. Yery near my fairy cave lies the one described by Byron, in " The Island," which can only be reached by diving — " A spacious cave Whose only portal is the keyless wave (A liollow archway by the sun unseen Save through the billow's glassy veil of green)." A huge rock, about 60 feet high, rises from the sea, with nothing to indicate that it is hollow ; but at a considerable depth beneath low-water mark, there is an opening in the rock through which expert divers can enter, and find themselves in a cave about 40 feet wide and 40 in height — the roof forming rude Gothic arches of very rich and varied colour, and the whole incrusted with stalactites. The clear green water forms the crystal pavement, but two lesser caves, branching off on either side, afford a dry resting- place to such as here seek a temporary refuge. The place is quite unique in its surpassing loveliness; and the brilliant phosphoric lights Avhich gleam with every movement of the water, and which are reflected in pale tremulous rays, that seem to trickle from the stalactites and lose themselves among the high arches, give to the whole a weird ghostly effect, quite realising all one's fancies of a spirit-world. This home of the mermaids was first discovered by a young Tongan, who was diving in pursuit of a wounded turtle. Filled LEGEND OF THE CAVE. 31 with wonder and delight, he lingered a few moments in admiration, then, recollecting how valuable such a hiding-place might prove in days of ceaseless intertribal war, he determined to keep his own counsel. So when he returned to the surface he held his peace, and all his companions were filled with wonder and admiration at the length of time he could remain under water. Not very long after this, his family incurred the anger of the great chief of Vavau, and one and aU were disgraced, and in continual danger of their lives. But the chief had a beautiful daughter, who loved this bold young islesman, and though under any circumstances he was of too lowly birth to dare to claim her openly in marriage, he persuaded her to forsake her father's house and come to that which he had prepared for her in the romantic grotto. Here she remained hidden for several months, only venturing to swim to the upper world in the starlight, and ever on the alert to dive to her hiding-place on the slightest alarm. Of course her simple bathing dress of cocoa-nut oil and garlands did not suffer much from salt water; or if it did, trails of sea-weed quickly sup- plied fresh clothing. Her love brought constant supplies of fruit, to add to the fish which she herself provided : and so the happy weeks flew by, till at last the companions of the young man began to wonder why he left them so often, to go away all by himself, and especially they marvelled that he invariably returned with wet hair — (for the Tongans have the same aversion as the Fijians to wetting their hair, and rarely do so without good cause). So at length they tracked him, and saw that when his canoe reached the spot where he had stayed so long under water in pursuit of the turtle, he again plunged into the green depths, and there remained. They waited till he had returned to the land, suspecting no danger. Then they dived beside the great rock-mass, which seemed so solid, though it was but the crust of a huge bubble — and soon they too discovered the opening, through which they swam, and rising to the surface beheld the beautiful daughter of the chief, who had been mourned as one dead. So they carried her back to her indignant father — but what became of her hapless lover history does not 32 A LA.DYS CRUISE. record. Doubtless he was offered in sacrifice to the gods of Yavau. "We peered down through the crystal waters to see whether we could discern the entrance to the lover's cave, but failed to do so. Except at very low tide, it is difficult for average SAvimmers to dive so low. "We only heard of two Englishmen who had succeeded. One was the early traveller, Mariner, who was present at a hava- drinking party of the chiefs in this cool grot; the other was the captain of an English man-of-war, who, in passing through the low rock archway, injured his back so seriously, that the people of Vavau believed him to have died in consequence.^ It appears that the passage into the cave bristles with sharp projecting points, and it is exceedingly difficult to avoid striking against them. A native having dived to the entrance then turns on his back, and iises his hands as buffers to keep himself off the rocky roof. Our row back to Neiafu was most lovely — sea, isles, and skj', vegetation and cliffs, all glorified in the light of the setting sun. As wo were returning to shore, to land Mr Fox, Captain Aube hailed us, and bade us invite him to dinner with him. I thought this very courteous, as of course, on such an essentially Eoman Catholic mission as this, there is just a little natural feeling that it may not be discreet to shoAv too much honour to the Protestant minister, who, however, met with a most cordial reception, and we had a very pleasant evening. This morning I was invited to accompany a party who started at daybreak to shoot wild duck on a pretty lake at some distance ; but as I had the option of returning to the grotto, I chose the latter. So the captain again lent me the ten-oared boat, and we made another pleasant party to the beautiful cave : but it lost much of its beauty by being seen in the cold shadow of early morning, instead of being illumined by the level rays of the evening sun. We repeated the palm-leaf bonfires, but felt that we were not exhibiting our dis- covery to the best advantage. However, I got a sketch, which has the one merit of being totally unlike anything else I ever attempted. "VVe returned too late for breakfast in the captain's cabin, so had 1 Since my return to England, I have heard the statement corroborated. THE BISHOP OF TIPARA. 33 a clieeiy littla party in the ward-room, then went ashore to say- good-bye to our friends, and carry away last impressions of the fragrant orange-groves of Vavau. Then the bishop and the Fathers returned on board, and we sailed away from the Friendly Isles. CHAPTER IV. LIFE ON BOARD SHIP — THE WALLIS ISLES — FOTUNA — SUNDAY ISLE — CYCLO- PEAN IlEMAINS ON EASTER ISLE — STONE ADZES — SAMOA — PANGO-PANGO HARBOUR. From my Sofa in the Gun-carriage, ON Board the Seignelay, Sunday, I6th. My dear Xell, — I have asked Lady Gordon to send you a long letter to her, which I hope to post at Apia, so that I need not repeat Avhat I have already written. "We are having a most delightful cruise, with everything in our favour, and the kmdness of every one on board is not to be told. To begin with, Monseigneur Elloi, Eveque de Tipara, is a host in himself, so genial and pleasant, and so devoted to his brown flock. He is terribly unhappy about all the fighting in Samoa ; and I think the incessant wear and tear of mind and body he has undergone, in going from isle to isle, perpetually striving for peace, has greatly tended to break down his own health, for he is now very far from well, and every day that we touch land, and he has to officiate at a long churcli service, he is utterly exhausted. It is high time he returned to France, as he hopes to do, at the end of this cruise. His title puzzled us much when he arrived in Fiji, as we sup- posed him to be Bishop of Samoa. But it seems that a Roman Catholic bishop cannot bear the title of a country supposed to be semi-heathen, so they adopt that of one of the ancient African churches, which are now virtually extinct. To-day, being Sunday, the bishop called together as many of the C 34 A lady's cruise. sailors as wished to attend, and held " a conference " — which meant that he sat on deck, and they sat or stood all round, quite at their ease, no officers being present, while he gave them a very nice win- ning little talk, ending with a few words of prayer. There was no regular service. There is always a tiny form of morning and evening prayer, said on parade by one of the youngest sailors, which is very nice theoretically, but is practically nil. At the word of command, Pri^re, a young lad, rapidly repeats the Ave Maria and Notre Phre qui etes aux cieux ; he gabbles it over at railroad speed in less than a minute ; then, as an amen, comes the next thing, Punitions, followed by a list of the various little tres- l^asses of the day, and the penalties awarded. At each point where the vessel has touched, she has taken or left some of the French priests, many of whom have been working in these isles for so many years, that they know every detail con- cerning them, and are consequently very pleasant companions. One of my especial friends is a dear old Pere Padel, a cheery Ih'eton, who has been working in the Wallis group for many years, with the happy result of seeing its savages converted to most devout Catholics. He is now going to Samoa. Much of the charm of this voyage is due to the kindly, pleasant relations existing between the captain and all his officers, from the least to the greatest — all are so perfectly at ease, while so thorough- ly respectful. They are all counting the hours for their return to la belle France, where several have left wife and family ; and their two years' absence apparently seems longer to them than the four years of our English ships would seem to be to less demonstrative Britons. Nothing astonishes me more than the freedom of religious dis- cussion on every side. Of course to the bishop and the numerous jjeres, personally, every one is most friendly and respectful, as well they may be ; but as a matter of individual faith, cest toute autre chose. The evening tea-parties in the captain's cabin are particularly pleasant. Very often the conversation turns on some literary question, and then, from the ample library, are produced books THE WALLIS ISLES. 35 from which j\I. le Commandaiit reads illustrations of prose or poetry. He is himself literary, and writes very well, in the ' Eevue des deux Mondes ' and other papers. Monseigneur Elloi says that Captain Aube is a very distinguished man in the French navy, and one who is certain of rapid promotion. He has another guest on board, M. Pinart, a scientific traveller. He belongs to a French Protestant family, but is such a thorough cosmopolite, that when we go about together in the natiye villages, and the people ask our nationalities, I always answer for him " American." He is most industrious in his various lines of work, and is at present busy copying out vocabularies of all manner of dialects. He is greatly interested in all ethnological questions, and has a collection of skulls, enough to supply a resurrection army. I do not think the sailors like it very much, and they are always afraid that some trouble will arise with the natives of various isles on the vexed subject of les cranes, which our savant scents out from old hiding-places in caves and clefts of the moun- tains, with all the instinct of a schoolboy hunting for bird's nests. He has just shown me some beautiful illustrations in colours, for the book he is bringing out on American Indians ; also many good photographs, done by himself, of objects of interest in many lands. I am so sorry that the Seignelay paid her visits to Fotuna (in the Southern New Hebrides), and to the "Wallis Isles, on the way to Fiji. If only these had been reserved for the return journey, I should have had the rare luck of seeing them also. My kind friends are for ever regretting this, and give me tantalis- ing descriptions of both isles and people. Apparently les isles Wallis, or Uvea, must be the true earthly paradise — so green, so fertile, with people so industrious, so con- tented, and so hospitable. It is a group of four or five high vol- canic isles, all richly wooded, and protected from the ocean, not only by the great barrier-reef, but by an intricate labyrinth of lesser belts and patches, which make navigation a matter of ex- treme danger, even after the difficult entrance, by a very narrow jiassage, has been accomplished. The approach to the anchorage 36 A LADYS CRUISE. is by a network of such dangerous channels, as involve masterly steering for even small craft, and make it a matter of wonder that large vessels should attempt it. Indeed a French steamer, L'Her- mite, was wrecked there not long ago, owing to one moment's hesitation ou the part of her commander, who, meeting a strong tide running out, shifted the helm at a critical moment, and so the vessel was swept on to the reef — a helpless plaything for the over- whelming surf. The Wallis Isles lie due north of Tonga, and are the head- quarters of the Eoman Catholic Bishop of Oceania, and a strong clerical staff; also of a French sisterhood, who devote themselves to teaching children whose lives have been spared by their own once cannibal parents, and who now worship with them, in a hand- some stone church, built by themselves, under the direction of the Fathers, and are in every respect pattern Catholics. Three days' sail from Wallis lies Fotuna, which is a little world by itself. It consists of a single peak, rising abruptly from the waters, and broken up into towering masses of crag and pinnacles, seamed by deep ravines, opening up into fertile valleys, richly cultivated. Sparkling streams afford an abundant water - supply for the irrigation of the taro beds ; bread - fruit, bananas, and palms grow luxuriantly : so it is an isle of great natural beauty, and though only fifteen miles in circumference, affords ample pro- vision for its 900 inhabitants. They seem to be a happy, healthy community, and have all adopted Christianity, either in its Protes- tant or Roman form. The representative of the latter is a fine old priest, who has devoted the greater part of his life to work on Fotuna, and year by year adds a few inches to the walls of a very large cathedral, Avhich he hopes some future generation wiU com- plete. The natives show their love for the good -padre by bring- ing him the heavy blocks of coral-rock, which he hews at his leisure; but they are well content to worship in less solid build- ings. The majority wear, as their badge, a little brass medal of the Virgin, or some other Christian amulet, which, in the case of the little children, is often their only raiment ! Apparently the adherents of the two great Christian bodies con- FOTUNA CLOTH. 37 fcrive to live in peace, instead of finding in differing faitli a new occasion for enmities, as has been the case even in Polynesian isles. But is it not grievous that, when at length " the people who sa1> in darkness have seen a great light," it should not shine upon them in one undivided ray ? The people .of this lonely isle are especially interesting, because they, and the inhabitants of Aniwa — a much smaller isle in the same region — are of a totally diiferent race from those on the other isles composing the IvTew Hebrides — the latter being Papuans, and these Malays, whose ancestors drifted all the way from Tonga in a canoe. Though their colour has darkened, they retain the dialect and the hair of their race. Every one on board has treasures of some sort from Potuna — especially very beautifully painted native cloth. I think some of the patterns are almost more artistic than those of the Pijians. Like theirs, these are principally geometrical ; and in addition to the black and red dyes which are there used, the artists of Potuna introduce a good deal of yellow. The printing is done in the same manner, the raised pattern being carefully designed with strips of cocoa -rib or bamboo on wooden blocks, on which the colour is stamped. It is the same principle as that of our printing-types, and was known in Polynesia long before the art of printing was invented in Europe. The most remarkable productions of Potuna and some of its neighbouring isles are gigantic cocoa-nuts, more than double the ordinary size. They are immensely prized as drinking-cups. Many are 18 inches in circumference after the husk has been removed. The largest grow on the isle of ]S[iufau, which is described as being merely the rim of a great crater, from which smoke sometimes rises, and which is incrusted with sulphur. Apparently the warmth of the soil agrees Avith all vegetation; for the isle is ex- ceedingly fertile, and the cocoa-nuts are the wonder and envy of all beholders. I confess I should not care to live on one of these smoulder- ing volcanoes. There are a good many such, scattered about the Pacific — and occasionally one subsides altogether. Por instance, 3"8 A lady's cruise. halfway between Tonga and Xew Zealand lies Sunday Isle. It is a volcanic rock-mass 1600 feet in height, and about four miles in diameter. It is exceedingly fertile, but steam rises from all the crevices of the rocks, and the people have only to scrape a hole in the ground, and therein place their food that it may be baked in nature's own oven. At one time there were a good many settlers in this warm corner, but in an evil day a Peruvian slave-ship touched here, and landed 200 poor creatures, captured in all parts of the Pacific. Typhoid fever had broken out among them; so they Avere thrown ashore to die, which they did, and most of the settlers shared their fate. The others left the island on the first opportunity, leaving only one white man with a Samoan wife and a dusky brood. These lived on in peace and plenty for about ten years, when suddenly the little fresh-water lake began to boil furiously, and from its midst a fountain of fire shot high in the air. Happily this mighty rocket served as a signal of distress, for a pass- ing vessel descried the fiery column and came to investigate, greatly to the relief of the Crusoe family, who were taken on board, and for ever abandoned their home. Evidently this isle must lie on the same volcanic chain as the "White Sulphur Isle, which is a sulphur volcano to the north of Xew Zealand, connected subterraneously with that great tract in the province of Auckland, where geysers, solfataras, and all manner of volcanic phenomena abound.^ All these are reproduced on a smaller scale on the island of Tanna in the ISTew Hebrides, within 30 miles of Fotuna. It is a circular island, about 40 miles in diameter. JSTear the harbour rises a volcanic mountain about 500 feet in height, densely wooded to the very summit, though seamed with fissures from which rise clouds of steam and sulphureous vapours. The whole island is exceedingly fertile — cocoa-palms, bread-fruit trees, bananas, sugar- cane, &c., grow luxuriantly, and the yams occasionally attain a weight of 50 lb. ; one root being from 40 to 50 inches long — a very neat thing in potatoes. Yet the soil which produces this rank vegetation forms so thin a crust over the vast furnace below, 1 Vide 'At Home in Fiji' (C. F. Gordon Gumming), vol. ii. VOLCANIC ISLE OF TANXA. 39 that in some places the penetrating heat is painful to the naked foot. !N'evertheless, the people have no fear of accidents ; on the contrary, Avherever they find a group of hot springs they build their huts, and, like the New Zealanders, they love to lounge on the steaming grass or hot stones. In every village a circular space is set apart as the marum, or place for holding council or feasting, and in these districts a "vvarm spot is selected, where, after sun- down, the men may combine the pleasures of a vapour-bath with the enjoyment of their bowl of liava, while discussing the affairs of the tribe The springs are in great favour as baths. They are of all tem- peratures — from the tepid water in which the natives play luxur- iously for hours, to the boiling springs in which they place their food and leave it to cook itself. Some of these natural boilers lie so close to the shore, that the fishers who haunt the reefs, armed with long four-pronged spears, have only to throw their prize into the rock-caldron the moment they have secured it. 'So fear of tainted fish for them ! Nor need they search far for drinking water. Probably the nearest spring is quite cold and excellent. Some of the springs are highly medicated, and many resort to the healing waters, some of Avhich are especially efficacious for the cure of ulcerous sores. Beyond the strangely fertile crust, covering the region of horror, lies an unveiled tract of cinders and black volcanic ash, forming a wide barren valley from Avhich rises the principal cone. This valley is intersected by a multitude of fissures from which issue scalding sulphureous fumes. Here and there beds of the purest sulphur have been deposited, and trading vessels occasionally carry hence a cargo of this pale primrose-coloured mineral, to be turned to good domestic uses. Pools of boiling mud alternate with springs of cold Avater clear as crystal ; and in fissures lying but a few feet apart the same strange diversity exists. One sends forth a blast of scalding steam, while in the next a dripping spring yields its slow but continuous supply of ice-cold water, falling drop by drop. The cone, which is called Asoor by the Tannese, is about 300 feet in height. It is a gradual ascent, but fatiguing, owing to tho 40 A LADY S CKUISE. uccumulation of fine black ash or sand, in wliicli the foot sinks at every step. Masses of scoria and vitreous lava, or obsidian, have been thrown up by the volcano, and lie scattered on every side. On reaching the summit, you find yourself on the brink of a crater half a mile in diameter, within which lie five secondary craters. These act as so many chimneys for the great furnace, which roars and bellows below, and which day and night, with deafening roar, unweariedly throws up its fiery blast at intervals of five, seven, or ten minutes, according as its action is more or less vehement. Some travellers have visited it repeatedly at intervals of several years, and their accounts of the intervals of eruption never vary beyond this slight difference. Huge masses of black rock or liquid fire are tossed in the air, to a height of 200 or 300 feet, often falling back within the crater, or else hurled to the valley below. Clouds of white steam mingle with denser clouds of the finest dark-grey dust, which is carried by the wind to all parts of the island, coating every green leaf with a powder like fine steel-filings, which fills the eyes and nostrils of all breathing crea- tures in a most unpleasant manner. "When rain falls, it absorbs this dust, and becomes literally a mud-shower. From the position of the inner craters, it is obvious that even the most foolhardy scientific traveller could hardly venture to ap- proach them to peer into the mysterious workings of that mighty caldron. Yet a native legend records, that in one of the fierce battles between the tribes of Tanna, one party was gradually driven backward, till they retreated to the summit of the cone, and even there they still fought on, contesting foot by foot of the sandy ridges of the inner crater, where a multitude of these savage warriors perished, having fought to the death, unheeding the wrath of the fire-gods. But of the isles visited by the Seignelay, before I had the privilege of joining the party, there is none which I regret so much as Easter Island, or, as the inhabitants call it, Eapa iSTui, where they touched on the way from "Valparaiso, from which it is distant about 2500 miles, without any intermediate isle. I think it must be the loneliest spot in the Pacific, as there are apparently only two GIGANTIC STATUES. 41 little isles anywhere within a radius of 1000 miles. It is a vol- canic island, about 11 miles long by 4 wide. It is covered with extinct craters, in some of which are deep pools of water. The highest point is about 1000 feet above the sea-level. The hills are covered with hybiscus and other scrub. It is inhabited by a race of very fair natives, like the Tahitians, and very elaborately tattooed. But the isle owes its interest to its mysterious relics of a for- gotten race, who have utterly and completely died out, even from legendary lore ; while their handiwork abides, written on the rocks, which are so covered Avith carving as to resemble the studio of some giant sculptor. Colossal stone images lie half buried beneath the creeping grass and encroaching scrub. At intervals all round the coast there are cyclopean platforms, from 200 to 300 feet in length, and about 30 feet high, all built of hawn stones 5 or 6 feet long, anrl accurately fitted, without cement. And above these, on the lieadlands, are artiticially levelled platforms, paved with square blocks of black lava. On all these, stone pedestals remain, whereon were placed the great images, which, by some powerful force, have mostly been thrown to the ground and broken. The average height of the figures is about 1 8 feet ; some of those lying prostrate are 27 feet long, and measure 8 feet across the breast. You can infer the size of some of the upright ones from the fact that, so near noon as 2 p.m., they cast sufficient shadow to cover a party of thirty persons. Some have been found which measure 37 feet. They are all hewn of a close-grained grey lava, which is only found at Otouli, a crater on the east side of the island. On a platform near this quarry several gigantic images stand in perfect preservation. One of these measures 20 feet from the shoulder to the crown of the head. They represent an unknown type. Very square face — short, thin upper lip, giving a somewhat scornful expression — broad nose and ears, with pendent lobes. All the faces look upward. The eyes are deeply sunken, and are supposed to have originally had eveballs of obsidian. 42 A LADY S CUUISE. All tlie principal images have the top of the head cut flat and crowned with a cylindrical mass of red lava, hewn perfectly round. Some of these crowns are 66 inches in diameter and 52 in height. The only place on the island where this red lava is found, is the crater of Terano Hau, which is fully eight miles from Otouli ; and how these ponderous crowns were conveyed to their position on the heads of the grey rock-kings, is one of the mysteries of the isle. About thirty of them still lie in the quarry where they were hewn, ready for the heads which they were never destined to adorn. Some of these are 30 feet in circumference. "Well may we marvel by what means those unknown sculptors transported their ponderous works of art from one distant point to another on this lonely volcanic isle. The statues are literally lying about in hundreds, and the very rocks on the sea-beach are carved into strange forms — tortoises or human faces. Besides these, all along the coast, there are cairns of small stones, and on the top of each pile are laid a few white pebbles. These have probably been burial-cairns. Unless the face of the island has undergone some wondrous change, those mysterious workmen cannot even have possessed wooden rollers to aid them in the toil of transport, for there are literally no trees — nothing but small scrub. "When Captain Cook discovered the isle, he only saw three or four little canoes, which were built of many small pieces of wood, sewed together with fibre, the largest piece being 6 feet long and 14 inches wide at one end, 8 inches at the other; and this, he thought, was probably drift- wood. These canoes "were from 18 to 20 feet long, and could barely hold four people. He found that the most acceptable gift he could bestow on the people was cocoa-nut shells, to be used as cups, since the island produced no palms, and but few gourds. Their only drink is brackish water, obtained by digging wells on the stony beach, through which the salt water filters. "Wooden tablets, covered with hieroglyphics, have been found, which might perhaps reveal something of the old history of the race, but as yet no one has been able to decipher them. There are also stone slabs^ covered with geometric figures, curious birds, UNSOLVED MYSTERIES. 43 animals, and faces, painted in black, white, and red — doubtless these also are hieroglyphs. They are ranged inside the quaint stone houses, of which about a hundred remain, at one end of the isle ; and are built in lines, with the doors towards the sea. The inside measurement of these houses is about 40 feet by 13, and the walls are upwards of 5 feet thick ; they are built of flat stones laid in layers. At about 6 feet from the ground, the slabs are so laid as to overlap one another, till they gradually close ; and the small opening at the top is roofed with long thin slabs. Till a Eawlinson arises to read the hieroglyphs of Eapa ISTui, its mysteries must remain unsolved ; and the cold proud faces, with the sightless eyeballs, will continue to gaze heavenward, and the great stone images, whether gods or heroes, must lie in fallen grandeur in this their sea-girt shrine, with none to tell us what unknown race devoted the labour of their lives to sculpturing the rocks on this lonely isle. Unfortunately the Seignelay has no artist among her officers, so no one has any sketches which can give me any general idea of the isle, and though I have seen a few photographs of individual figures, I cannot from them obtain any impression of the whole effect. I confess I wish I had had the chance of doing a few panoramic and bird's-eye views of the whole scene. Though per- haps not artistic, I am quite convinced that by no other means can a traveller so fully enable friends at home to realise the scenes on which his own eyes have feasted. The only other corner of the earth, in which I can hear of any- thing akin to these mysterious rock-sculptures, is the far-distant volcanic isle of Java. If you sail almost halfway round the world, heading straight for the west, you come to that wonderful isle, with its terrible volcanoes and amazing wealth of vegetation. ISTo- where else are there so many distinct volcanoes in so small a space. Xo less than thirty-eight separate cones cluster round the great central range of mountains, from 5000 to 13,000 feet in height. Some are active fire-craters, and throw out molten lava ; others are water-craters, containing milk-white lakes or sulphureous geysers : in short, volcanic action is there in every form of sublime terror, / 44 A LADY S CRUISE. and the Javanese aborigines erected temples to appease tlie fire- giants, and from the solid rocks sculptured prodigious statues in their honour. In one spot 400 ruined shrines have been dis- covered, with altars, and images — all apparently built to propitiate the fire-gods. It is very risky to draw inferences from mere descriptions of any sort of art, but so far as I can make out, these would appear to be the productions of the true aborigines, ere Hindu influence prevailed, leaving its mark in those marvellous Buddhist ruins at Jiorrobudua and Samarang, which we so unfortunately did not see, on our way from Singapore to Fiji. It is, of course, possible that the platforms and sculptures of Easter Isle may simply have been an extraordinary development of the marai — i.e., the tomb-temple, which was the accepted form of ecclesiastical building throughout the south-east Pacific. They varied considerably in form, some being great pyramids erected on a stone platform ; while on other isles (as, for instance, on Huahine, in the Society Isles) there are stone terraces, built irregularly, right up the face of the hill, with spaces left between them. On one of the principal platforms a row of tall monoliths stand up- right, just as did the images on the Easter Island terraces. On Huahine these are called " the stones of dividing," and are said to have been set up as memorials of the division of land among the various tribes, each stone representing the title-deeds of a clan. To this day each tribe recognises its own stone, and, beholding it, recollects its unwritten legend, — just as at the present day in Fiji a messenger who is charged with a dozen diff'erent errands, will carry in his hand a dozen small sticks or leaves, and in fancy makes each stick represent a message. From this imaginary note- book he will read ofi" each detail with unerring accuracJ^ "Whatever faint resemblance may suggest itself between the irregular terraces and monoliths of Huahine, and the equally irregular terraces and statues of Easter Isle, it is hardly conceiv- able that such vast energy could have been expended on a mere memorial of tribal divisions, especially where there was so little land to divide. Perhaps Easter Isle was a sort of lona — the Holy RUDE STONE IMPLEMENTS. 45 Isle of the old Druids, who there erected the 360 great monoliths, which the followers of St Columba sanctified by carving them into the form of crosses, hut which in later years were cast into the sea by order of a ruthless Protestant Synod, who declared them to be "monuments of idolatrie." The only traces of any forgotten race which I have had the good luck to see on the present cruise, have been the cyclopean tombs of the old kings of Tonga, and a huge trilithon, concerning which the present islanders know as little as we do of Stonehenge. "WTiile in Tonga I endeavoured to procure some stone adzes, but could only buy three very coarse ones without handles. They have long been in disuse there. M. Pinart, however, succeeded in getting some better si)ecimens, which were carefully stowed away by some of the old people in the recesses of their homes. What miraculous patience it must have required, first to make these stone implements, and then to work with them ! They were generally made from basaltic stones, which were dug out of the earth with strong sticks, and then roughly chipped into shape Avith a heavy flint. Perhaps after many hours of severe labour the stone would break in two, and the workman had to select another and begin again. This time he might progress swim- mingly, and spend perhaps whole days in carefully chipping, till the rough stone began to take shape. Then he would substitute a lighter flint, and work with still greater care, only chipping ofl" the first fragments, — and after all his labour, perhaps one sharp tap Avould prove fatal, and the carefully chiselled axe would split in two, revealing an unsuspected flaw in the centre. So the work must all be begun again, and the patient, persevering savage go on with his chipping till he succeeded in producing a perfect axe. Then came the slow process of smoothing it by such delicate strokes as only removed a fine white dust, and last of all came laborious polishing Avith rough coral and water and fine sand, till the axe at length became a serviceable tool, ready to be Ijoniid yfith. strongly plaited fibre to the bent Avooden handle. After this it had to be periodically ground l)y rulibing it on a very hard rock. "We saAV several rocks in Fiji sccired Avith deep 46 A lady's cruise. grooves from having constantly been used for tliis purpose ; and of course they must exist in all countries in which stone celts have been in use, which, I suppose, means all corners of the round world, Britain included. I greatly doubt, however, whether the ancient Britons ever produced such artistic carved bowls and spears with their stone imj)lements as these Pacific Islanders have done. The men who worked with these tools needed wellnigh as much patience as those who manufactured them. Imagine a squad of men taking from fifteen to thirty days to fell a tree ! Saith the old proverb, " Little strokes fell great oaks," and these were little strokes indeed ! Of course a more rapid process was to make a slow fire all round the base of the tree, and so burn it down ; but the fire so often ran up the heart of the tree, destroying it alto- gether, that the slower process proved best in the long-run. How- ever, as a good-sized tree could thus be felled in three or four days, the rafters of houses were often thus prepared, and the branches burnt off. Once down, fire could be better used to divide the tree into useful lengths ; and if a canoe were required, a long narrow line of fire was allowed to burn the whole length, its progress being regulated by the slow dripping of water. Thus the work left for the stone axe was considerably lessened, though it would still have puzzled a British carpenter to work with such tools. Tuesday, IStX We are enjoying the most perfect weather — a calm sea and a faint sweet breeze. The vessel glides on her way so smoothly that we scarcely perceive any motion, and all yesterday I was able to work up my sketch of the grotto, sitting in a delightful impro- vised studio on the tiny bridge {la passerelle). We are not mak- ing much way, as we are sailing to economise fuel ; but the days pass pleasantly, and there is alwaj's some ship-life going on, which to me has all the interest of novelty — either parade, or fire- stations, or fighting-stations, or cannon practice (mercifully done in dumb show !) " MASSACRE BAY." 47 "VVe are passing tlirougli a great slioal of jelly-fisli — I suppose I ought to say medusas — hlmj, transparent creatures of very varied form. Some are like mushrooms, some like great bells, with deli- cately marked patterns of pale green or pink, and long fringe of feelers. They are beautiful by day, and at night gleam like balls of white fire. Tliey are here in myriads, and are of all sizes, from a teacup to a cart-wheeL There are also a great number of flying- fish skimming on the surface of the glassy sea. I am told that we are now 6.30 miles from Levuka in a direct line ; but our detour in the Friendly Isles has made our voyage thence amount to about 1100 miles. We have just sighted Mount Matafae, the highest point in the isle Tutuila. It is a conical mountain 2300 feet high, and lies just above Pango-Pango,. the most perfect land-locked harbour in all the Samoan group, with water six or eight fathoms deep close in shore, and surrounded by luxuriantly wooded hills. At present we are steering straight for Leone, where the bishop has work awaiting him. The place had an evil name in old days, as that where M. de Langle, who accompanied La P^rouse on his expedi- tion in 1787, was barbarously murdered, with eleven men of his boat's crew, — hence the name of " Massacre Bay," and the char- acter of treacherous and bloodthirsty savages which for so many years clung to the people, tiU Messrs Williams and Barff arrived here in 1830 with their trained Tahitian teachers, and made friends with them. Then they learnt the native version of tha fray, and heard the invariable story of innocence suffering for guilt, — namely, that a poor feUow who had gone off to the ship to trade had been detected in some trifling act of pilfering, when he was immediately shot and carried ashore mortally wounded. Of course his friends determined to avenge his death, and so assembled on the beach, armed with stones and clubs, ready to attack the invaders the moment they attempted to land. They were only carrying out the example given to them, and combined revenge for evil done, with prevention of further assault. 48 A lady's cruise. Panoo-Panqo Harbour, Tuesday Night. After all, Ave did come here, for the anchorage at Leone is simply an open roadstead, and is not safe in a strong southerly gale. Cap- tain Aube feared the wind might shift, so the vessel merely lay to, to, allow a young priest, Pere Vidal, to leap on board from his canoe, and then we ran right to this lovely spot, where we anchored at sunset. It is indeed a perfect harbour. AVe are Ij'ing close to the shore, in water twenty-one fathoms deep, clear as crystal, and calm as any inland lake. Steep, richly wooded hills rise round us on every side to a height of about 1000 feet, and you can discern no entrance from the sea. It seems like living in a vast cup. The hills all round are covered with bread-fruit trees, oranges, limes, pine-apples, bananas, and all the usual wealth of tropical greenery. This has been a calm, peaceful evening of soft moonlight. We sat on the passerelle while one of the officers, who is an excellent violinist, played one lovely romance after another, sometimes soar- ing to classical music. The others lay round him listening in rapt \ delight. The air is fragrant with the breath of many blossoms, and in- deed all the afternoon we have had delicious whiffs of true " spicy breezes," such as I remember vividly off Cape Comorin, but which I have not very often experienced at any distance from the land. CHAPTEE Y. BOAT TRANSIT TO LEONE — SPOUTING CAVES — COUNCIL OF WAR SKETCH OF SAMOAN HISTORY NIGHT DANCES. In the Hoi'se of the Native Catechist, Leone, Wednesday, 10th. "We have had a long delightful day, and I am tolerably tired ; but before taking to my mat, I must give you some notion of what we have seen. All the early morning the ship was surrounded by SAMOAN HAIRDRESSIXG. 49 canoes full of natives, offering clubs, native cloth, and baskets for sale. Some of the canoes had ornamental prows with carved birds, &c. After breakfast I went ashore with ]M. Pinart to see all we could of the village. We were invited to enter several houses, which are ]nuch more open and less like homes than those in Tonga or Fiji. But the people are all in a ferment, for, as usual in poor Samoa, this is only a lull in the course of incessant tribal war, and the people of Pango-Pango belong to the Puletoa, who Avere severely beaten in a recent battle. They are, however, keen to return to the fray, and this morning all the warriors assembled in full conclave, holding a council of war. They arrived in large canoes (some of their canoes carry upwards of 200 people, but those we saw had not room for above 50). They are noble-looking men, the fairest race in Polynesia, and truly dignified in their bearing. Some wore crowns of green leaves, and many had blossoms of scarlet hybiscus coquettishly stuck in their hair, which is cut short, dyed with coral- lime, and frizzled and stiffened with a sort of bandoline made of the sticky juice of the bread-fruit tree, mixed with scented oil ; so that, instead of being straight and black, it stands round the head in a stiff halo of tawny yellow, like that of the Fijians and Tongans. Is it not strange that the same curious rage for converting black hair into gold should prevail on this side of the world, just as it has in London in various epochs of fashion's folly, as when the attendants of " The Virgin Queen " dyed their raven locks with a lee of wood-ashes, especially those of " ivy-tree bark," or a de- coction of the flowers of T>room, either of which was warranted to " cause the hair grow yellow " 1 Of the various alkaline Avashes in use at the present day, and the good champagne converted to a liair- Avash, I need not speak. Besides, these are mysteries Avhich I have not yet solved. Here there is no deception at all in the process. It is all carri(Ml on in open day, for the simple and cleanly purpose of exterminat- ing Avee beasties. The head, Avhether male or female, that has just l)i;(3n Avhitewashed, presents exactly the apjiearance of a barrister's Avig stuck on to a bronze statue. But such Avork is all done on un- D 50 A lady's cruise. dress days ; and of course to-day every one was got up in full suits of mats and foliage, with a good coating of fresh cocoa-nut oil, the effect of which, on a brown skin, is admirable. The Psalmist knew what it was, when he spoke of " oil to make him a cheerful counte- nance." The man who neglects it looks dull and lack-lustre ; whUe he who, having anointed his flaxen locks, has then given his face and shoulders a good polish, seems altogether radiant. y^ Of course we found our way to the House of Debate. The spokesmen were apparently eloquent orators, very fluent, making use of much gesticulation and very graceful action. Each carries a fly-flap, which is his badge of office, and consists of a long bunch of fine brown fibre, very like a horse's tail, sometimes plaited into a multitude of the finest braids, and all attached to a carved handle about a foot in length. Witli this, when not engaged in speechifying, he disperses tlie flies which presume to annoy his chief. But while talking, the fly-flap is thrown carelessly over the right shoulder. Dainty little flaps of the same sort are carried by many persons in preference to the fibre-fans in common use. I observe, however, that there are fewer fans here than in Fiji, where you are always offered one the moment you enter the poorest hut. I was struck by the rapt attention with which the audience favoured each successive speaker. Tlie bishop was present, accom- panied by the captain. They wished to remonstrate with the big chief on the subject of certain persecutions of Catholics, and also to urge him and his party to submission. They are but a handful • ' compared with the others, and the strife seems so hopeless, and has already cost so many good lives j but I fear the good bishop's efforts are all in vain. Like the Hebrew peacemaker, he " labours for peace ; but when he speaks unto them thereof, they make them ready to battle." And now, in every village and in every house, all the men are busy rubbing n.p their old guns, and preparing am- munition, making cartridges, and so forth. "VVe returned on board at noon ; and after luncheon, the bishop had to return in a ship's l)oat to Leone. He most kindly invited me to accompany him. We were a full boat-load — Pere Soret and Pere Vidal, two chiefs, two other natives, one officer, and twelve COAST OF SAMOA. 51 French sailors. The sea was very rough, and we shipped so ninch water that two men were told off to bale incessantly. Of course our things got very wet. On these occasions the bishop is seen in perfection ; he is so cheery and pleasant to every one, sailors and passengers, and makes the best of everything, though himself suffer- ing greatly. This sort of boating is very different from travelling on our lovely Fijian lagoons, within the shelter of the encircling reef. Here the huge breakers dash madly on the shore, where they spout like geysers through a thousand perforated rocks, and we had to remain fully half a mile from land to avoid their rush. Oh for the calm mirror-like sea-lakes over which we have glided for the last two years, till I, for one, had wellnigh forgotten what boating in rough water means ! To-day our ten stout rowers could with difficult}'' make any Avay, and our progress was slow. "VVe saw enough of the island (Tutuila) to agree in the general praise of its green loveliness. Its high volcanic hills are densely wooded, and look more tropical than those of Ovalau (Fiji). But our powers of appreciation were considerably damped by the in- vading spray, and we watched the rugged coast, chiefly with a view to knowing whether there was one spot where a boat could land in case of need ; but in the whole run of twelve miles, there was not a single place where it would have been possible. Even here, at this large native town, there is only a narrow break in the rocks, where landing is tolerably safe in fine weather. As we drew near we saw a large body of Samoan warriors exer- cising on the shore, and hear that the people have assembled from far and near to take measures for immediately crushing the rebels at Pango-Pango (our friends of this morning). The chiefs here belong to the Faipule faction. The good Fathers invited me to tea at their house, and then handed me over to the care of Dorothea, the excellent wife of their catechist, who had prepared the tidy inner room of her house for my reception. Here I am most cosily established. My hostess, with about twenty of her scholars, nice-looking girls, have hung up great screens of tnjipa to act as mosquito-nets ; and under these 52 A lady's cruise. they are sleeping peacefully in the outer room. Of course I brought my own net and pillow, being too old a traveller ever to risk a night without them ; and my bed is a layer of fine mats, beautifully clean and temptingly cool. To these I must now betake me, so good-night. In the Teacher's House, Thursday Night. I started in the early morning for a long walk, taking as my guide a graceful half-caste girl with flowing black hair. She wore a fine mat round her waist, and a pretty patchwork pinafore, of the simple form generally adopted here — that is, a fathom of cloth, with a hole cut out of the centre to admit the head and neck. It is trimmed with some sort of fringe, either of fibre or grass. Occa- sionally two bright-coloured handkerchiefs, stitched together at the upper corners, supply the simple garment, which, however, is not an indigenous product of Samoa, but was the tiputa introduced by the early Tahitian teachers. It is practically the same as a Spanish ponclio. All the shore here is edged with black volcanic rock ; the lava seems to have formed huge bubbles as it cooled, and many of these have been water-worn till they are connected one with another by innumerable channels. So the waves rush tumultu- ously into these subterranean caves, and thence through hidden passages, till they reach openings like deep wells which lie at intervals along the shore, at some distance from the sea. Through these chimneys the rushing waters spout in great foam-fountains, and the effect produced is that of intermittent geysers, all along the coast. I think some of the jets must have been fully 100 feet high — and how the great breakers do surge and roar ! !No peaceful silent shore here ! We passed a very large deserted European house, built by Mr Scott of the Presbyterian Mission. How so large a house came to be required, or why it was abandoned, are mysteries of which I liave heard no solution. I returned to breakfast with the Fathers, to whose house I go for all meals. Happily the kind forethought of Captain Aube has A SAMOAX COUNCIL. 53 provided me with a j^rivate teapot and a good supply of tea and sugar, so that I can have a brew whenever I wish ; — a great com- fort, as the ecclesiastical hours are very irregular, the Fathers being in the habit of luxuriating on dry yam, drier biscuit, and cold water. The only attempt at cooking is that of a nice half-caste lad, who is the bishop's sole attendant, and combines the duties of chorister, acolyte, episcopal valet, and cook ; so his duties in the latter capacity have to wait on the former. It seems we have arrived here at a most critical moment. The majority of the chiefs of Tutuila have assembled here to hold council of war how most effectually to subdue the rebels. The majority are in favour of war. A few have not yet arrived. All to-day they have been sitting in parties all round the malce — that is, the village green. At intervals one of the " talking men " stood up, and, laying his fly-flapper on his bare shoulder, leant on a tall staff, and, without moving from the spot where he had been sitting, threw out an oration in short, detached, abrupt sentences. Having had his say he sat down, and each group apparently made its own comments quietly. There were long pauses between the speeches, which made the proceedings rather slow ; but we sat by turns with all the different parties {we, meaning myself, M. de Kerraoul, and M, Pinart, who had walked across the hills from Pango-Pango). After a while, the bishop was invited to speak — a great exertion, as the audience formed such a very wide circle. He took up his position beneath the shade of a bread-fruit tree in the centre, and though his voice was very weak, he was distinctly heard by all — and his speech seemed impressive. Of course he urged peace, and he has a good hope that at least the Eoman Catholic chiefs will allow themselves to be guided by him. But the meeting closed with a bad tendency to war, which was illustrated by various actions in the manner of bringing in the feast, the way in which women, wearing trains of tappa, were going about all day, carrying bowls of hava to the orators, and other symptoms evident to prac- tised eyes. Many of the men wore beautiful crowns of Pearly Nautilus sliell, wliich are also symptomatic of warlike intentions. 54 A lady's cruise. The bishop's Avords, however, Avere not without effect. The council assembled again to-niglit, and is still sitting, and I hear that after much talk the chiefs have Avritten a letter to the chief of Pango-Pango, again inviting him to submit, and so avert war. Just now I mentioned the bowls of kava with which ministering damsels refreshed the thirsty speakers. Perhaps I should explain that it is the identical drink which I so fully described, in writing to you from Fiji, where it Avas knoAvn as yangona — namely, a dry root masticated, till there remains only a fine Avhite fibre, as free as possible from saliva. This is placed in a large wooden bowl, and water is poured over it. It is then strained through a fine piece of hybiscus fibre till all the particles of root have been removed, when there remains only a turbid yelloAV fluid, tasting like ginger and soap-suds, which is gently stimulating, like weak sal-volatile, and has the advantage of rarely resulting in intoxica- tion, Avhich, in any case, is a A^ery different affair from that pro- duced by drinking spirits. A man must drink a good deal of this nasty Tcava before he can get drunk ; and Avhen he does, his head remains quite clear, — he merely loses the use of his limbs, and has to appeal to the compassionate bystanders to lift him to a place of safety. If his companions were white men, they might obligingly empty his pockets while he looked on helplessly ; but South Sea Islanders would scorn to take so base an advantage of a man in his cups. On the contrary, they Avill obligingly bring him some moun- tain bananas, nicely roasted in their skins, Avhich are considered a corrective, and Avill then leaA'e him to sleep himself sober. Different groups have trifling differences in their method of pre- paring this national beverage, and the ceremonies to be observed. In Fiji it is considered very incorrect for a Avoman to touch the boAvl, — chcAving, straining, and handing it round in cocoa-nut shells, should all bo done by young men, whose comrades sing Avild melodies during the manufacture, and keep up a peculiar measured hand-clapping Avhile the chiefs are drinking. Here, in Samoa, the girls are all Ilebes. They do the brcAving, and carry round the cups, but there are no songs {yangona-meke), and the only hand-clapping is done by the drinker himself as he hands A DRILL DANCE. 55 back the cup. In Fiji, the correct thing is to send the empty cup skimming across the mat to the great central bowl. This afternoon a corps of sixty warriors favoured us with a very odd sort of drill dance. Their dress consisted of kilts of black calico, trimmed with cut-out white calico, to look like tcq^iya ; on their heads a turban of Turkey red ; their mouth and chin hideously blackened, which on these very fair people produces a monstrously ugly effect. They all had muskets, and were called soldiers ; but we thought their drill was more funny than warlike, and concluded that they would be quite as dangerous to their friends as their foes. They have a sort of American flag, invented by Colonel Steinberger. The dance was a very miserable travesty of a true native 7neke, such as we have so often seen in the isles further west ; but here the vulgarising influence of w^hite men is painfully evident, and one of the prominent figures at the chief's council was a high chiefess in a huge crinoline, a gorgeous red dress, and a hideously unbecoming hat. trimmed with scarlet and green ribbon and feathers : " Oh, wad some power the giftie g-ie us, To see oursels as ithers see us !" Could that proud woman but have knoAvn with Avhat different eyes we, the great strangers representing all Europe, looked on her fine foreign clothes, and on the pretty becoming attire of her hand- maidens, with their finely plaited and fringed mats, necklaces of scarlet berries on their clear olive skin, and bright blossoms in their hair ! Philosophers tell us there is always good in things evil ; and so far as outward appearance goes, the tendency to war is in favour of artistic beauty, as these people (like the Samoans and Tongans) connect the idea of good behaviour with pretty closely cropped heads ; but when the war-spirit revives they become defiant, and let their hair grow like a lion's mane, and adorn themselves with gay wreaths and garlands from the neck and waist. When a man has allowed his hair to grow long, he twists it up in a knot on the 56 A lady's cruise. top of his head, but it Avould be considered gross disrespect to ap- pear thus in presence of a superior or at a religious service. He must tlion untie tlie string and let his hair fall on his shoulders. Kather odd, is it not, that they should have exactly the same idea on this subject as a Chinaman, Avho dares not venture to appear in presence of a superior with his pigtail twisted round his head 1 To-day the great chief's half-caste secretary asked me most anxiously when " Arthur Gordon " was coming from Fiji, and whether it was really certain that he would endeavour to force the Samoans to reinstate King Malietoa. I ventured to answer for Sir Arthur having no such intention, which seemed to soothe the inquirer and all his anxious surroundings. You may remem- ber that we have twice had Samoan chiefs in Fiji. Once when they were brought as hostages on board the Barracouta, and once as a deputation to the British Government, to claim a protectorate from England. In each case, though the protectorate was refused, they were most kindly received by Sir Arthur Gordon, and amongst other attentions, were invited to dine at Government House. So several of those here assembled now recognised me as an old acquaintance, and are very friendly in consequence. It really is too sad to see those fine manly fellows, who, if they could but work in concert, might be such a powerful little com- munity, now all torn by internal conflicts and jealousies, continu- ally fanned by the unprincipled whites, who hope to reap their harvest in the troubles of their neighbours. I fear it would be difficult in a few words to explain the position of affairs, but I must give you a rough outline. The old original Tui Samoa — i.e., kings — were of the dynasty of Tupua. Some generations back the Tongans came and invaded Samoa, whose people resisted bravely, and finally expelled the foe. The "Wellington of that day was a brave chief, who was thence- forth known as Malietoa, the " Good AVarrior," a title which from that day has been borne by the chief ruler of the isles, even if not in the direct lineal descent. The chiefs of S avail, and of part of Upolu, with the lesser isles of Manono and Apolima, elected ]\Ialie- toa their king. The isles of Anna and Atua remained loyal to the SAMOAN HISTORY. 57 Tupua family. They were, however, conquered by a successor of ]\Ialietoa, who reigned as king of the whole group till 1840, since which period a ceaseless strife has been waged between the con- tending factions. These became aggravated in 1869 by a split in the Malietoa camp, when, on the death of the reigning chief, his two sons contested the succession. The chiefs of Savaii supported the claims of the elder brother, while those of the isle Monono elected the second, justly believing that the chiefs of Apia were becoming mere 'tools in the hands of the foreigners. This double civil war, fomented as usual by the whites, raged till 1872, when the United States assumed a sort of protectorate over the group, and in the following year a republic was declared, the supreme power being vested in the hands of a representative body of seven high chiefs. These were called the Taimua — i.e., the "Pioneers." I must tell you that the great nobles of Samoa are called Al'il, and the greatest care is taken to preserve their line in direct lineal descent from the ancient chiefs. It is not necessary that the title should descend from father to son, only that it should be bestowed on a member of the family, who can trace back his clear pedigree to the true source. Therefore, on the death of a high chief, the minor chiefs of the tribe elect the member of the principal family, whom they will henceforth acknowledge as their political head, reserving to themselves the power of deposing him should he prove unsatisfactory. These minor chiefs also hold their title as head of the family by election — a son being often passed over in favour of a cousin, and sometimes ev^n of one who is no blood relation, but is adopted for some political reason. These head men are the Faipule., who act as local magistrates in each village, the affairs of which they dis- cuss in solemn conclave. They have the name of being great orators, and much eloquence flows in these legislative assemblies. The great chiefs never speak in public, that office being deputed to their official spokesman. In a general way the Samoan isles have divided themselves into ten districts, each of which has its distinct fono or parliament, and no action is taken in any matter 58 A LxVDy's cruise. till the members of one council have arrived at something very near a unanimous decision. Of course, in times of war like the present, these matters are very irregular. In January 1875, a new experiment was tried. Unheeding / the wisdom which forbids having " two queens in Brentford," the Samoans resolved to have a king of each dynasty, who should reign jointly : so Pulepule of the ancient Tupua race ascended the throne in company with Malietoa Laupepa ; and the number of the Taimua was raised from seven to fourteen. How long this amicable arrangement might have continued, it is impossible to say; for on the 1st April 1875, a very serious phase of April fooling was enacted by an American adventurer, known as Colonel Stein- berger, who, by some means not clearly explained, obtained a passage to Apia in the United States man-of-war Tuscarora, and on landing stated that he had been sent from Washington to organise a new government. As his sole credentials, he presented the Samoans with four pieces of cannon and a Gatling gun, which, he said, were a gift from President Grant. Utterly ignoring all the foreign consuls, including the represen- tative of the States, he proceeded, under protection of the American man-of-war, to draw up a new constitution, declaring Malietoa sole king, and himself (Steinberger) prime minister, and, in fact, su- preme ruler. This matter being settled, the Tuscarora sailed, and Steinberger proceeded to arm the schooner Peerless (which he had purchased in San Francisco) with guns and ammunition, and sailed to Tutuila to put down the disturbances in that island. The American consul (Mr Poster) vainly remonstrated against the proceeding of this unlicensed vessel flying the American flag ; and taking advantage of the arrival of H.M.S. Barracouta, commanded by Captain Stevens, he seized the Peerless for breach of the neu- trality laws. Then followed a meeting of all the foreign residents, resolving to free themselves from the tyranny of this self -constituted dictator. Many of the Samoan chiefs joined Avith the foreigners in claiming British protection — the German consul, Godeffroy's representative, being the only one to stand aloof. The _ Barracouta arrived on the TROUBLOUS TIMES. 53 12th December; and ou the 7th February, Malietoa appealed to the United States consul to aid him in getting rid of his arrogant premier. Mr Foster forwarded this petition to the British consul and Captain Stevens, who, after an interview with the king and the Samoan representatives — the Taimua and the Faipide — agreed to arrest Steinberger, who, accordingly, was carried on board the Barracouta for safe keeping. His right hand, Jonas Coe, was however left at large, and by his advice the Steinberger faction proceeded that night to seize the king and carry him off to the isle of Savaii, where they forced him to sign a deed of abdication, vesting all power of government in the Taimua and Faipule. "Within a week Malietoa contrived to send a message to Captain Stevens, acquainting him with these circum- stances, and requesting his further aid. The Barracouta accordingly went to the rescue, and brought the king back to Apia, where he was landed with a salute of twenty-one guns, and a guard of marines was told off to protect him. The town was now full of armed mobs, who surrounded the British consulate in a threatening man- ner, so that Mr Williams, the consul, was obliged to swear in special constables for its protection. So matters went on till the 13th March, when the king, wishing to explain to his people his reasons for dismissing Steinberger, summoned all the chiefs to meet him at the neighbouring village of Mulinunu, which lies on a green peninsula beyond Apia. Malietoa was escorted by his principal chiefs, the consuls, and foreign residents, and Captain Stevens, with a guard of sailors and marines ; the latter Avith unloaded arms, which were piled on reaching the village. Then, in their rear, appeared a strong party of armed natives, cutting off their retreat, and evidently meditat- ing an attack. An officer, with a small party of marines, advanced to parley with these men, but were received with a volley of mus- ketry, which killed and wounded several. Then followed a sharp skirmish, in which the sailors fought at a great disadvantage — tlie enemy being 500 strong, and concealed by the dense thickets of bananas and sugar-cane. Eleven sailors and marines were killed and wounded, and the assailants lost about double tliat number. 60 A. lady's cruise. Grave fears were entertained that the British and American con- sulates would be attacked; so they were put in a state of defence, which proved a sufficient precaution. Next day Mr Jonas Coe was tried by his consul and countrymen, and sentenced to be de- ported. So he enjoyed the privilege of joining his chief on board H.M.S. Earracouta, which soon afterwards sailed for ]S"ew Zealand, calling at Fiji on the way (on which occasion I made friends with ^ the three Samoan chiefs whom Captain Stevens had brought away \ as hostages for the good behaviour of their party). Much oil having been poured on these troubled waters by the soothing intervention of both French and English missionaries, and especially by the personal influence of the bishop, a superficial peace was established, and Malietoa Laupepa once more reigned as king. How soon disturbances have broken out, we now see too plainly.^ After our evening meal at the Fathers' house, I took a turn in the moonlight with M. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul, hoping to see a Samoan dance, which was to come off" soon after sunset. But the council having again met, the dance was deferred till so late that I thought it better to come back here, where I found all the pretty little school-girls adorned with garlands, singing and acting very pretty quaint songs and dances, illustrating their geography, arith- metic, &c. Then about twenty grown-up women, who had come in from the village, sprang to their feet, and volunteered to show me some of the real old Samoan night dances — Po ulu faka Samoa. 1 Tlie struggle lasted for some time. Finally, Jlalietoa again got the upper hand, and was acknowledged king by the foreign Powers, General Bartlett, U.S., being his prime minister. In August 1879, the Hon. Sir Arthur Hamilton Gor- don, Commissioner for the Western Pacific, arrived at Apia, and concluded a treaty •with the king and Government of Samoa, declaring perpetual peace and friendship between the people of their respective isles. The Samoans ceded to Britain the right to establish a naval station and coaling depot, as had previously been granted by treaty both to Germany and America. On the 8th November 1880 King Malie- toa died. He was barely forty years of age, and a man greatly loved by all his , own people. Probably but for the disturbing presence of the meddling whites, he might still be reigning over a happy and prosperous people. As it is, the coun- try is once more in a state of anarchy ; and the good bishop, whose heart yearned for the peace and prosperity of the people, has himself passed away to the world where all is peace. SAMOAN DANCES. 61 These were exceedingly ungraceful, and half theu' point seemed to consist in making hideous grimaces and contortions, and in reduc- cing wearing apparel to a minimum, consisting chiefly of green leaves. I think that on the slightest encouragement they woiald have dispensed with any. Each figure was more ungainly than its predecessor, and seemed likely to be prolonged indefinitely ; so, as it struck me that the entertainment would scarcely meet with the approbation of the good Fathers, should it occur to them for any reason to come over, I suggested that the children should give us a parting song, whereupon they sang " Malbrooke " and " Bon Soir " very prettily, though I daresay the French words they re- peated did not convey much more to their minds tlian do the Latin prayers. Then the party dispersed, and now the school-girls are all safely stowed away beneath their close tappa mosquito-curtains, like a regiment under tents, and I am in possession of the inner reeded room. It is a great boon to have such a haven of refuge from the nmltitude of gazing brown eyes. By the shouts from the vara I know that the council has broken up, and the real Samoan dance has now begun ; but from the specimen given to me by the ladies, I think it is just as well that I came away. — Xow, good-night. CHAPTEE VI A SHORE WITHOUT A REEF — SAMOAN PLANTS— HOUSES — ANIMALS — LAYING FOUNDATION-STONE OF A CHURCH— SCHOOL FESTIVAL— THE NAVIGATOK's ISLES. Leone, Isle Tutuila, Sept. '11, 1S77. At early dawn my pretty half-caste damsel took me to bathe in the river, but the shore was muddy and not very attractive. We returned in time for service in tlie little church, which is about to 62 A lady's cruise. be replaced by a miich larger building, the foundations of which are already raised, and the great event of this afternoon has been laying its first stone. Immediately after breakfast at the Fathers' house, I started ■with ]\r. Pinart and M. de Kerraoul for a long, most lovely walk along the coast, by a path winding among dark rocks and rich ferns, Avith great trees overhanging the sea, which breaks in real surf below them, washing their roots, which seem alive Avith myriads of crabs of all sizes, which also wander at large among the branches, like so many birds. Many of the lower boughs are actually fringed with shells and sea-weed, while the growth of parasitic ferns on the upper branches is wonderful to behold. The muddy shore of the river seemed literally moving, from the multi- tude of burrowing crabs, with one large pink claw ; and every now and again a great land-crab would peer at us from some fruit-laden branch, with its curious eyes projecting on movable stalks, which turn about at will. This is the first place in the Pacific where I have seen grand green waves break on the shore. Throughout the Fijian isles they spend their force on the barrier-reef, and only the gentlest ripple washes the coral sand. The rainfall here is greatly in excess of that in Fiji, consequently vegetation is richer, and the intensity of green more remarkable. So far as I can judge, the general foliage here is identical with that of the most fertile of " our " isles. The cocoa-nuts are much larger. I am afraid to confess how hateful to me is the very thought of returning to long weary winters in Britain, with six dreary months of leafless undress. Da you realise that in all these isles there are only two or three deciduous trees, and that the majority put forth their wealth of young leaves almost faster than the old drop off? They are " busy trees " indeed, laden at once with bud and blossom, ripe and unripe fruit, and in many cases bearing several crops in a year. No wonder that these light-hearted people care so little to weary themselves with digging and delving, when the beautiful groves yield them fruit in abundance, and the mountains supply MOUNTAIN BANANAS. 63 uncultivated crops of nourishing bananas and wild yams. For that matter, I suspect it is really quite as fatiguing to climb the steep mountains in search of wild vegetaljles as it would be to grow them in gardens — probably a good deal more so — for the beautiful mountain-plantain, which is the staple article of food, grows in all the most inaccessible valleys and clefts of the rock. As you look up the steep hill-side, so richly clothed with vegetation, the most prominent forms are these large handsome leaves, with their huge cluster of fruit growing upright from the centre, but to reach them you may have to climb a couple of thousand feet — and such climb- ing ! A man would need to be in very robust health who could face such a walk to fetch his family food. For my own part, I should prefer to sacrifice the romance, and plod steadily at my yam-garden. These mountain-plantains are the only branch of the family which carry their fruit upright in that proud fashion ; all other sorts hang drooping below the leaves, like gigantic bunches of yellow grapes ; and the native legend tells how, long ago, all the banana tribe held their fruit upright, but that in an evil hour they quarrelled with the mountain-plantain, and were defeated, — hence they have ever since hung their head in shame. In heathen days the Samoans seem to have been greatly averse to unnecessary work, and even the art of making cloth of the paper-mulberry fibre was one which their indolence long prevented, them from acquiring, though they greatly admired that which their Tahitian teachers made for them. K^ow, however, they appear fairly industrious, and the women particularly so — those of the highest rank priding themselves on being the most skilful weavers of fans, mats, and baskets, and in making the strongest fibre-cloth. The chief men also are willing to do their full share of whatever work is going on, whether house-building, fishing, working on the plantation, or preparing the oven and heating the stones to cook the family dinner. Now all the chief men wear very handsome cloth, thicker and more glossy than that made in Fiji, though less artistic in design. Fifty years ago the regular dress of all the men was merely a girdle G4 A lady's CliUISE. of leaves — a simple form of dress, but one wliicli was never dis- pensed with, as in many of the Papuan group ; indeed, one of the most humiliating punishments in heathen days was to compel a culi:)rit to walk naked through the village, or so to sit for hours in some public place. To this day a leafy girdle is considered essen- tial as a bathing-dress — the long dracaena leaves being those most in favour. They are so arranged as to overlap one another like the folds of a kilt ; and as they vary in colour, from brilliant gold to richest crimson or brightest green, the effect produced is as gay as any tartan. This is the favourite liku, or kilt, in Fiji even now. But on great occasions in olden days, as at the present time, the chiefs, and their wives and daughters, wore very fine mats of the most delicate cream colour. They are made two or three yards square, and are as soft and flexible as cloth. The best *are made from the leaves of the pandanus, scraped till there remains only a fibre thin as paper ; but the bark of the dwarf hybiscus also yields an excellent fibre for weaving mats. Their manufacture is a high art. It is exclusively women's work, but is one in which few excel, and is very tedious, — the labour of several months being expended on a mat which, when finished, may be worth about ten dollars. The strong j^aper ♦ like clotli commonly Avorn, is much less troublesome to manufacture. There are several plants from which a good cloth-making fibre is obtained. One of them is the mag- nificent giant arum, the leaves of which often measure from 5 to 6 feet in length, l)y 4 in width. Its root is large in proportion — truly a potato for a giant. How you would delight in the cosy brown cottages whose thatched roofs just peep out from among such leaves as these. You do realise that you are in the tropics when you see gigantic caladium or quaint papawas, splendid bananas Avith leaves 6 or 8 feet long, and tufts of tall maize or sugar-cane 15 to 20 feet high, growing luxuriantly at every cottage-door. To-day we passed through several villages, and were everywhere greeted with the kindly salutation Ole Alofa [i.e., "Great Love "). We were invited to enter many houses ; and though our scanty THE ITALIAN OF THE PACIFIC. 65 vocabularies did not suffice for much conversation, a mutual in- spection was doubtless gratifying to both parties. The language of the Samoans is soft, and their voices musical. To express thanks, they say Faa-fetai. The familiar Vinaica / Vinaka ! [i.e., " Well done ! " in Fijian) is here rendered by Le-lei ! Le-lei / Good-night, is Toja — i.e., " May you sleep." The Samoan lan- guage is generally described as the Italian of the Pacific — it is so mellifluous. It is, however, a very difficult one for a foreigner to acquire thoroughly, as it has three distinct dialects — the lan- guage used in addressing a high chief, a middle-class gentleman, or a peasant, being altogether different ; and a further complica- tion arises from the politeness which leads the highest chief to speak of anything referring to himself in the dialect which de- scribes the lowest of the people. In Samoa, however, as in the other Polynesian group, one language is spoken on all the different isles, and there has at all times been free intercourse between them — a very different state of things from that which prevails in such groups as the Kew Hebrides, where each isle has a dialect — per- haps two or three — unknown to any of its neighbours, and where one tribe dares not set foot on the land of another. Samoa has always been in many respects superior to most of her neighbours. Not only was she free from the reproach of cannibalism, but also, in great measure, from that of infanticide, which prevailed to so frightful an extent in neighbouring groujDs. Here children were never destroyed after their birth, though it is supposed that fully two-thirds of those born in old days, died from mismanagement in nursing. The sick were invariably treated with kindness, and old age lovingly tended. Such horrors as the burial of the living, as practised in Fiji in heathen times, were never dreamt of in Samoa. In no land is old age more beautiful than here — partly because the tendency is to corpulence in place of leanness ; and the eyes retain their clear, piercing brightness, and the countenance a kindlj'' expression, which tells of the powerful good sense for Avhich many of these people have been so remarkable. Certainly they are a handsome and attractive race. E G5 A lady's cruise. 'We noticed in all these villages the same cliaracteristic in liouse-building which struck us at Pango-Pango — namely, that there is a good deal of roof supported on posts, but little of any- thing answering to a wall ; so the houses resemble huge oval mush- rooms, and home-life is of a very public description. There are, liowever, movable screens of plaited cocoa-palm, which arc put up so as to enclose the house at night, on the same principle as the paper walls or screens which compose the sides of a Japanese house, and which are generally removed in the daytime. The wooden screens invariably are so. At night the interior of a Samoan house resembles a small camp, as large curtains of heavy native cloth are slung from the roof and hang like tents, within which the sleepers lie on a pile of soft fine mats, their necks, not their heads, resting on a bamboo or wooden pillow raised on two legs. Furniture is conspicuous by its total absence. A few baskets for fish or vegetables hang about the walls, and a few bundles containing cloth and mats lie in the corners. Cookery is done out of doors in the native ovens, for ^Samoans have no pottery of any sort ; so the picturesque cooking- pots of a Fijian kitchen are lacking. The very few cooking or water pots which are sometimes seen in a chief's house have in- variably been imported from Fiji, and are prized accordingly. The roof itself is one of the most precious possessions of tlie isles. Ponderous as it appears, it can be divided into four parts, and removed from one place to another, should the family have occasion to Hit. The great rafters are bound together by strong creeping-plants (vines or lianas) from the forest, and the ordinary thatching consists of sugar-cane leaves, strung on reeds, which are laid so as to overlap one another : sometimes a heavy cocoa-palm matting above all, secures the roof against a very high wind. Some of the Samoan homes revealed very pleasant cool-looking groups of comely lads and lasses lounging on their mats, making and smoking the invariable tiny cigarettes, consisting of a scrap of tobacco rolled up in a morsel of the dried banana-leaf fringe they wear round the waist. A few were whiling away the hot hours of the day by a game with small cocoa-nut shells : each player has SAMOAN GAMES. £7 five shells, Avith wliicli he tries to knock every one else's shell from a given spot, leaving his own in their place. They also play a game something like forfeits. They sit in a circle, in the centre of which they spin a cocoa-nut on its thin end ; and as it falls, the person towards whom the three black eyes point is considered to have lost. In the same way the}^ cast lots to decide who shall do some work or go an errand. In one village a party of lads had assembled on the village green to play totoga, or reed-throwing — a game very common in Fiji. The reeds, which are 5 or 6 feet in length, have oval wooden heads about 4 inches long, and the skill lies in making these skim along the grass to the furthest possible distance. In a green shady glade we saw a party of young men, very lightly clad, practising spear-throwing, aiming at the soft stems of banana-trees, which I suppose represented the bodies of their foes. In the game they take sides, and one party tries to knock out the spears planted by the other. Sometimes they carry very short spears, and in throwing these, aim so as first to strike the ground, whence the shaft glides upwards towards the mark. I am told that a feat is sometimes performed which must involve marvellous coolness as well as dexterity. A man, armed only with a club, stands up as a target, and allows all the others to throw their spears at him. All these he catches with his club, and turns them aside in quick succession. It can scarcely be called a pleasant game, however. "VVe saw several distressing cases of elephantiasis, which is here called fe-fe, and, we are told, is common. It produces hideous malformations ; and the sufferers are pitiable objects, the arms and legs being hideously swollen. The natives attribute this disease to the action of the sun ; but some Europeans who have suffered from it declare that it is also produced by exposure to the night air, and ])y excessive drinking of kava. Happily it is painless. Some of the Samoans suffer severely from ulcers ; and we heard of some cases of ophthalmia. Here and there, beneath the green shade of the plantains, close to the houses, we noticed hillocks of white sea-sand, surmounted 68 A lady's CItUISE. by a low oblong cairn of wave-worn pebbles, with a layer of wliite stones on tlie top. These are the graves of the household, l^o Higlilander is more careful to have his own bones, or those of his kindred, laid beside the dust of his forefathers, than is the Samoan. To hiui the idea of a common cemetery is repulsive. His desire is to be laid in the tomb in the garden, on land belonging to his family. When a man of any consequence dies, the ends of a canoe are cut off, and it is used as a coffin. This, however, is an innovation. The true old custom was to wrap the body in mats only — fine soft mats — and to lay it in a shallow grave, with the head to the east and the feet towards the setting sun. The wooden pillow and cocoa - nut cup of the dead were buried with him. Then the grave was covered with white sand, and the cairn Avas raised, always about a foot higher at the head than at the feet. If the deceased was a chief of any note, bonfires were kindled at short intervals all round the grave, and the mourners sat near and fed the fires till dawn ; and this they did for ten consecutive nights. But in the case of commoners, it sufficed to keep up a blazing fire all night in the house, taking care tliat the intervening space was so cleared as to allow the warm light to rest on the grave. The household fireplace was, as it is still, merely a circular hollow in the middle of the house, lined with clay, only a few inches deep, and rarely exceeding a yard in diameter. As the house has no walls, there is no difficuity about smoke, but con- siderable danger of setting fire to the surrounding mats. Nowa- days, the fire in the house burns only for warmth, and for the convenience of lighting cigarettes ; but in heathen days a blazing fire was kindled every evening in honour of the gods, to Avhom the house-father commended the family and all their interests. !N'ear one of the villages we caught a glimpse of a dark olive- green snake, the first I have seen for many a day. They are not quite so rare here as in Fiji, but are equally innocent ; and the girls take them up without hesitation, and play with them, and even twine them round their necks. We also saw some wood- pigeons and a few paroquets, and lovely little honey-birds, with crimson-and-black plumage. BIIiDS AND QUADRUPEDS. 69 As we crossed the river a frightened water-hen darted from among the bushes — swallows skimmed lightly through the air, and several exquisite blue-and -yellow kingfishers glanced in the sunlight, as they flashed in pursuit of bright-coloured insects. Flying foxes are very numerous, and, as they hang suspended from the boughs, head downwards, have the effect of some curious fruit. They are excellent to eat, as we discovered in Ceylon ; but most Europeans have a prejudice against them — I cannot see whj', as they feed on the best and ripest fruits. I quite understand the objection to the little insectivorous bats, which cluster in thousands among the rocks, clinging one to another, till they appear like brown ropes. The smell of these is simply disgusting. These are not the only night-birds of Samoa. I am told there are a good many owls. I did not, however, see any, neither was I so fortunate as to see the Samoan turtle-dove, with its exquisite plumage of peacock-green blending with crimson. Green paroquets abound, and a small scarlet-and-black bird. "When these isles were first discovered, an indigenous dog was foiind in the mountains — a small, dark -grey animal, with very little hair, short crooked legs, long back, and large erect ears. It fed on bread-fruit and yams, having no other animal on which to prey, with the exception of the little native rat. The natives very naturally considered both dog and rat as dainty dishes for high days. Happily they contented themselves with these, and held cannibalism in abhorrence. The wild dog was also found on Hawaii, Tahiti, and New Zealand. On some of the isles there was a native breed of pigs, lanky, long-legged creatures. Like the rats and dogs, they made a virtue of necessity, and were strict vegetarians. They were found in Hawaii, Tahiti, Tonga, and the New Hebrides. These are the only three quadrupeds that appear to have been indigenous on any of the Polynesian isles ; and now all three are extinct, having died out on the introduction of their foreign kindred, in obedience to that sad fate which appears to rule the destinies both of men and beasts. The people whose ideal quadruped was a pig, very naturally 70 A lady's cruise. judged of all imported aTiimals by this standard : so a goat or a cow became known as a horned pig ; a horse, a man-carrying pig ; a cat, a mewing pig. When the first goat was landed on one of the Hervey Isles, where even pigs were unknown, the natives called one another to come and see " the wonderful bird with great teeth growing out of its head ! " The most interesting aboriginal inhabitant of Samoa is a little kind of dodo, or tooth-billed pigeon, here called Manu-mea.^ Though now rare, it is still to be found in the forests, generally hiding in the tops of the highest trees. The natives say that it used to frequent the ground, but that since the introduction of foreign cats and rats, which have proved its deadly foes, it has instinctively retreated to safer quarters. Its diminished numbers may probably, however, be attributed to the high value set on it by the Samoan epicures. It is said to be closely allied to the extinct dodo. Its body resembles that of a pigeon, but its head and beak are those of a parrot. Its general plumage is dark -red, the head and breast being grey. Eyes, legs, and feet are all red, and the beak is reddish gold. When captured, it is generally very savage, and bites severely, but it is occasionally tamed, and feeds on fruit. Formerly the sporting world of Samoa found its chief pastime, not in pigeon-shooting, but in pigeon-catching, which sounds a very innocent amusement, but which was indulged in to such excess that the teachers found it necessary to discourage it, as it led to the schools being quite deserted, and all work at a stand- still, for months at a time — the faA^ourite season being from June till August. The Hurlingham of Samoa was a large circular clear- ing in the forest — (there were many such). Thither the whole population of a district would resort, having previously prepared great stores of provision. Grandfathers and little children, but especially young men and maidens, delighted in the dove-festival, dear to happy lovers. They erected temporary huts in the forest, and there took up their abode for a prolonged picnic. Many an idyl of the forest might have been sung by the flower-wreathed 1 Diduncidus strlgirostris. SA.MOAN DOVES. 71 minstrels of Samoa; and the wide world could offer no lovelier scene than the exquisite tropical forests of these happy isles, where no hurtful creature lies hidden. Eut I fear that even here the idyls were not free from occasional touches of shadow ; though doubtless there were reflected lights, enough to relieve any transient shade, and lovers' quarrels were forgotten in new loves. All round the central clearing, hiding-places were constructed and covered with green boughs. In each of these a sportsman was concealed, holding in one hand a stick to which a tame pigeon was attached by a string some ten yards in length. These pigeons were all trained to fly round and round ; and the wild Avood-doves seeing so many of their fellows circling round one spot,* naturally supposed there was something good to be shared, and ventured near, when, from each ambush a long slim bamboo was thrust forth, with a net attached, and the stranger was forthwith captured. Of course, he who caught the largest niunber was the hero of the hour, and to him was presented the evening feast — at which baked pigeons figured largely. Some, however, were preserved alive, to be trained as decoy-birds, as this pigeon-taming was a favourite occupation at all seasons of the year, — indeed is so at the present time ; for the Samoan takes as much pride in his doves and pigeons, as a Briton does in his hounds and horses. The birds are trained in such habits of idleness that they will not even feed themselves, but sit patiently waiting till their master actually puts their daily bread — yam, banana, or cocoa-nut — into their open mouths. The Samoan dove and its wooing furnished the theme for one of the prettiest of the native dances. The girls, while gently gliding to and fro, utter the low soft call of the female dove, their mates answering from afar, in deeper resounding tones, and circling around, ever drawing nearer and nearer, till the wooers and the wooed unite in a ballet of much graceful fluttering. We got back to Leone just in time to see the ecclesiastical pro- cession start from the old church to the site of the new one. At the consecration service, the bishop wore his mitre and a very gorgeous vestment of patchwork, presented by the Samoan ladies. 72 A LADYS CRUISE. I grieve to have to record that in leading the procession round the foundations of the new church, he made tlie turn wlddershins} I believe that this is contrary to ecclesiastical custom — and of course to my Scottish mind it suggested grievous misfortunes in store. An immense crowd of people had assembled, and the influence of European bad taste was too apparent in several cases ; as for instance, in the uniform selected by a large college of young men, and provided by themselves — namely, white trousers, magenta blouse, and sky-blue waist- band ! The girls wore white calico suliis ^ and pale-green pinafores, which, with their hair dyed yellow, were becoming. But they looked a thousand times better when, at a school-festival held later, they exchanged the white skirts for very fine cream-coloured mats embroidered round the edge with scarlet wool, necklaces of large scarlet berries and green leaves, and scarlet hybiscus and green leaves in their hair. They went through some very pretty school exercises, illustrated by much graceful action. Then some very fine women came up, wearing handsome new mats of hybiscus fibre, which, when newly prepared, is pure white, and after a while becomes creamy in hue. They presented us all with very pretty fans of woven grass. Then came a presentation of much food, including about thirty pigs, which were, ere long, devoured by the assembled multitude. The bishop was terribly exhausted by all this prolonged exertion and much talking ; but as an instance of his never-failing kindness to everybody, I may tell you, that when the school-feast Avas over, I came to this, my special nest, remarking to some one that I was 1 Or more correctly, in old Celtic parlance, tua2:ihol—i\\at is to say, a turn con- trary to the course of the sun, keeping the left hand towards the centre. It was only used when invoking a curse, as opposed to the turn deisul, which invoked a blessing on the object round which the turu was made. The superstition is com- mon to all lands in whose early mythology sun-worship held a place. See ' From the Hebrides to the Himalayas,' vol. i. p. 203. 2 The sulu of the Friendly and Fijian Isles, the 2^i<'T<^o of Tahiti, the sarong of the Malays, or the comhoy of the Singalese, is simply a fathom of cloth wrapped round the lower limbs, and reaching to the knee or the ankle, according to the width of the material. A NATURAL FORTRESS. 73 fatiguee, forgetting that the "word may be interpreted as " not welL" So when the kind bishop came home to his much needed rest, he heard this, and, tired as he was, at once came to this house, which is at some distance, bringing a great roll of native cloth to soften my mat couch, and chocolate and other little delicacies, which he thought I might fancy. I was so sorry, — but it illus- trates the beautiful unselfishness of that genial nature. To-morrow we are to leave this lovely isle Tutuila and cross to the great isle of Upolu, on which is situated Apia, the capital. This group, Avhicli in our schoolroom days we were taught to call the I^avigators Isles, but which its inhabitants know as Samoa, consists of eight principal isles and several small islets. By far the largest are Savaii and Upolu — the former being 250 miles in circumference, the latter 200. Both are very beautiful, having high mountain-ranges, visible at a distance of 70 miles, and richly wooded. They are separated by a strait about 12 miles wide, the mouth of which is, as it were, guarded by two small islands, Manono and Aborima. The former lies close to Upolu, and one reef encircles both. It is the home of some of the high chiefs, and is an exceedingly fertile little island, clothed with the richest verdure. It is about five miles in circumference. Aborima, as seen from the sea, appears to be only a huge precipi- tous mass of rock, rising to a height of 200 or 300 feet. It is about two miles in circumference, and is probably the crater of an extinct volcano, for it is shaped like the hollow of a hand, whence it derives its name. It is inaccessible, except at one small opening between the steep cliffs ; but passing between these you enter an amphitheatre, which, from the base to the summit, presents an unbroken mass of tropical vegetation — a most marvellous transfor- mation scene from the desolate crags of the seaboard. A charming little village nestles beneath the fruit-bearing trees in the basin. This natural stronghold belongs to the chiefs of Manono, who use it in time of war as a safe refuge for their families and store- house for their property. All they need do, is to guard the narrow entrance, which tliey can either defend by dropping rocks on the 74 A LADY 3 CRUISE. invaders, or by so placing ropes across it tliat they can overturn their canoes. So, ahhough the warlike men of Manono have occa- sionally been driven from their own isle, they liave always found a secure retreat in this lovely rock-girt fortress, where they take good care always to have abundant stores of food ready for emer- gencies. That they need such a place of refuge, you may infer from the fact that when they were first visited by white men, about fifty years ago, a basket was suspended from the ridge-pole of a sort of war- tern pie, and in it were preserved 197 stones, which were the record of the number of battles which, the men of Manono had fought up to that date ! I do not know how many of these isles we are to visit. The more the better, since all are beautifuL But whenever I admire anything, the invariable reply is, " You like this 1 Ah, wait till you see Tahiti ! " Evidently it is the ideal isle. "No one will believe that I am not going on. Indeed I am beginning scarcely to believe it myself. AYell, we'll see Avhen we reach Apia. CHAPTER A^II. VANQUISHED CHIEFS OF THE PUI.ETOA FACTION UNDKR PKOTECTION OF THE UNION-JACK — CONVENT-SCHOOL — " BULLY " HAYES— POSTAL DIFFICUL- TIES—HOUSE OF GODKFFKOY — VILLAGE OF MALINUNU — VEGETABLES AND FISH — ADVANTAGES OF ANGLO-AMERICAN COMPANIES. British Consulate, Af'Ia, Isle Upolu, Monday, 2ith. "VVe arrived here yesterday morning, and I confess that, having heard so much of the beauty of this place, I am rather disappoint- ed. It is not to be compared with Levuka ^ from a picturesque point of view. A very long village, scattered round a horse-shoe bay, with cocoa palms ad libitum, and background of rather shape- less rich green wooded hills, part of which are under cultivation. ^ Capital of Fiji. CIVIL WAR. 75 Certainly the hills do gradually ascend to a height of fully 4000 feet, so they are not to be despised ; but our eyes are satiated with the beauty of volcanic peaks and crags, rising from an ocean of foliage wellnigh as rich as this. Doubtless if we have time to explore the interior, we shall find no lack of loveliness ; indeed even from the harbour we could distinguish one grand Avaterfall, like a line of flashing quicksilver on the dark-green mountain. But to reach it, would involve a long day of hard walking, such as I could not attempt, even were the sun less powerful than it is to-day. This town, which is the capital of 8amoa, consists of about two hundred houses and stores — German, English, and American consulates, a Koman Catholic college and cathedral, a (Congregational chapel, and two newspaper offices, representing the stormy politics of the isles— namely the ' Samoan Times ' and the ' South Sea Gazette.' The strong point of Apia is the excellence of its harbour — a point which the German traders have made good use of, in secur- ing their own right to a large part of it. As soon as we anchored, M. Pinart escorted me, first to call on Dr and Mrs G. A. Turner of the London Medical Mission, and then to H.B.M. Consulate, which was my destination — the wife of the consul, Mrs Liardet, and her mother, Mrs Bell, having been. our friends in Fiji, before they were sent to this place. We found that Mr L. had just sailed for Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon on the best course to follow in the present critical state of affairs, when every man's hand is seemingly against his neighbour, and each trying to induce the natives to espouse his individual quarrels as well as their own. So the whole community are at loggerheads. The whites are mostly riff-raff of a very low order ; and in short, the Samoa of to-day is simply a reproduction of Avhat Fiji was before annexation. Many of the scamps who are now working its strings are the identical men who, finding Fiji no longer a happy land of misrule, have just moved on to the next group, there to repeat the intrigues of their previous life. As I have explained to you, the Samoans are divided into two great factions, lu-twixt whom there is war to the death; and, un- 76 A LADYS CRUISE. fortunately, tliis ill feeling is kept up by the utterly unprincipled whites — German, English, and American — who have their own interests to serve, and are quite unscrupulous as to the means they employ. So, thanks to their machinations, there was a sharp skirmish about three months ago actually in the town, close to this house, and to the convent, where the. French Sisters have a large and excellent school for girls. There appears no doubt that it began by a treacherous onset unawares, instigated by a scound- relly American. The fight lasted all night, just behind this house. Sixty men of the Puletoa faction were slain, and their heads were cut off and sent to friendly chiefs as delicate offerings. You can imagine the horror of that night to the ladies here, hearing the noise of battle, the firing of muskets, and the shouts of the warriors, but unable to distinguish through the darkness what was going on. In the first glimmer of dawn they looked out, and saw a great crowd of poor terrified refugees of the Puletoa party crouching round the flag-staff here (at the consulate), claim- ing British protection. The Union-jack that was run up that morning has never since been lowered day or night, as the con- querors have as yet given no definite promise to spare the lives of the vanquished. Others, who had hidden in the scrub, have since crept in, under cover of night ; and from that day to the present, the fifty men (great chiefs and their followers), besides wives and children, are living within the very confined grounds of the consulate. The men never dare to venture outside these bounds, knowing that for long the place was surrounded by guards of the enemy, watching to shoot any of the refugees who might venture to step over the enclosure, which at the time of the fight was only parti- ally fenced in. The women and children are, however, allowed to go out and forage. The principal chiefs sleep in the dining-room and passages, and wherever they can find room to lie down ; and when I come to my room at night, I have to pick my way in and out among the sleepers. But the majority of the followers have built a large native house in the garden, where they sleep ; and as th.ey dare not go out even to bathe, they have dug a deep well for UNDER THE UNION- JACK. 77 their own use; and Mrs Liardet has given them her tin-lined piano-case, which they have converted into a very good comfort- able bath. They have sunk it near the well, and fenced it round, so it answers capitally, and has the merit of being quite a novel use for a piano-case ! All their arrangements are very tidy ; and they are a fine, digni- fied lot — especially the chiefs ; and all are so very^nice and respect- ful, that their presence in and about the house is not half such an inconvenience as you might imagine. Indeed Mrs Liardet and jMrs Bell have grown quite fond of them ; and they in their turn delight to play with Mrs L.'s baby, who is a bright little laughing pet. Indeed they act as a splendid guard, and are always quiet and well-behaved. But some of the poor fellows have terrible coughs, which keep themselves and us awake half the night ; and being awake, they do talk a good deal, which diminishes the chance of our falling asleep again. They are a handsome race, pleasant to the eye, and happily do not, like so many of the Tongan chiefs, affect foreign dress. They either wear fine mats, or else very thick handsome native cloth of bread-fruit or paper-mulberry fibre. Very few wear any covering on the shoulders, so the fine bronzed figures are seen to full ad- vantage ; and as I look down from this verandah I see on every side of 'ine such groups as an artist would love to paint. Pictur- esque men, women, and children, bright sunlight and gay blossoms, rich foliage, and palm-leaves flashing like quicksilver as they wave in the breeze, framing the blue waters of the harbour, where the foreign ships lie anchored. But all these poor people do look so sad, and no wonder ; for even if their lives are saved, all their property is lost, and many of these were the wealthy nobles of the land. Some people here say that they might now safely return to their usual life ; but others, equally old inhabitants, and equally well informed, say they are in as great danger as ever. It seems just touch-and-go whether a few days will see the renewal of a very bloody war, or whether all will agree to an unconditional cession to England. There is a strong impression that if Sir Arthur Gordon were to arrive here now, the 78 A lady's cruise. latter would be certain ; and that it is the only possible panacea for poor Samoa's wounds. Within a stonu's-throw of this house lie the grounds of the French convent, where four nice ladylike French Sisters, and two Samoan Sisters, devote themselves to the care of about sixty native girls — briglit, pleasantdooking lassies. The native Sisters appear to be thoughtful and devout women. There is an atmosphere of peace and calm within the convent grounds strangely in contrast with all the disquiet which prevails outside. Life here is quite Dr Watts's ideal — " In books, and work, and healthful play, Let my first years be passed." I can answer for the joyousness of the merry games that were played beneath the cool green shade of banaiia and bread-fruit trees, and also for the excellent work done in graver moments. Very pleasant, too, are the sweet young voices, trained in their singing by one of the Sisters, who is herself an admirable musi- cian and a good vocalist. Tliey were all greatly interested in hearing news of the Sisters at Tonga, which I was happily able to give them. Great is the delight of every one here at the return of the bishop, to whom all who desire peace seem to look with trust. 1)0 you remember my telling you, when the Samoan chiefs came to Fiji to consult Sir A. Gordon, that they brought with them two pretty, high-caste girls, Faioo and Umoo, with whom we made great friends 1 I found them both here, and they seemed overjoyed on re- cognising me. They are both girls of good (Samoan) character, and daughters of high chiefs. Their fathers, who are in the victorious government party, likewise recognised and cordially welcomed me. A considerable number of the bright merry girls at the good Sisters' school are half-castes — the children of Samoan mothers by French, English, or German fathers. Amongst these, two gentle, modest-looking lassies were pointed out to me as the daughters of the notorious " Bully " Hayes, of wliose piratical exi)loits I have heard many a highly seasoned yarn from the older residents in " BULLY HAYES. 79 riji, where lie occasionally aj)peareJ, as he did in all the oti\er groups, as a very erratic comet, coming, and especially vanishing, ■when least expected, each time in a diflerent ship, of ■which by some means he had contrived to get possession ; always engaged in successful trade with stolen goods ; ever bland and winning in manner, dressed like a gentleman, decidedly handsome, with long silky brown beard ; with a temper rarely ruffled, but with an iron will, for a more thoroughgoing scoundrel never sailed the seas. The friend who trusted to his courteous promises was his certain victim. If he was in the way, he was as likely as not to have his throat cut, or to be turned adrift on a desert isle. If owner of the vessel, he was probably landed to make arrangements for the sale of his cargo, while Bully Hayes was already on his way to some distant port to sell the said cargo for his own benefit, and then trade Avith the ship, till it became inconvenient to hold her, when she was de- liberately scuttled. It is about twenty years since this notorious pirate first made liis appearance in the Pacific, when for some reason he was landed on the Sandwich Isles, apparently against his wilL He was then accompanied by Mrs Hayes, the mother of these two girls, wlio now lives at Apia m respected solitude. For many years her lord has cheered his voyages with companions from all manner of isles, whom he has contrived to dispose of so soon as metal more attrac- tive presented itself. At last this inhuman miscreant has met his doom. Only a few days ago a vessel came into port bringing the news of his death. As he was entering his cabin he was knocked on the head with a marline-spike by his mate, who had suffered brutal ill-treatment at his hands, and so, determined on revenge. I doubt if even one Avoman was found to mourn him. It was a meet ending to such a career. A messenger has just run here in hot haste to tell me that a ship is in the act of sailing, and will take this letter. This morn- ing we asked in vain if there ■were any chance of a mail, and ■were assured that there was none. I can barely catch this — so good-bye. 80 A LADY S CRUISE. Same Evening, Truly those ■svliites of Samoa are aggravating Ishmaelites — all striving to outwit one another, without one thought for the com- mon weal. Ever since we anchored here we have been trying to learn whether any vessels were about to leave the harbour, and this very day we sent an express to the German consul, who re- plied that he believed it would be three weeks before a vessel sailed. But it seems that he represents GodefFroy's house, whereas this ship belongs to Hedeman & Rouget ; and all these firms are so jealous of one another, and so afraid of being asked to carry letters that their ships all try to sneak out of harbour without giving notice to the postal authorities. Dr Turner heard of this chance by the merest accident, through a grateful patient, and sent me word immediately, but being at the other end of a long beach, the information reached me just too late. Now weeks may elapse before there is another chance. Just now I mentioned the house of GodefFroy of Hamburg.^ This place is the headquarters of that great firm, which absorbs the principal trade of the Pacific. There is "neither speech nor language " where the name of this omnivorous firm is not heard. At Cochin-China in the north-west, Valparaiso in the soiith-east, and Samoa midway, they have established centres, from which their emissaries radiate in every direction, and their vast fleet of trading vessels are for ever on the alert to enlarge the field of their operations. They are the Graballs of this side of the world. Hearing of the profitable trade carried on here by Messrs Brander & Hort of Tahiti, they decided to follow in their footsteps, and ere long succeeded in eff'ectually supplanting them. This was partly effected by artfully fostering the intertribal disputes, which were ever smouldering among the Samoans, and then liberally supplying the combatants with arms and ammunition from their own arsenal at Li^ge (Belgium). For these useful im- ports they accepted payment in broad tracts of the most fertile 1 Shortly after the above was written, the Pacific was electi'ified by the sudden collapse of this huge mercantile house, which failed for the modest sum of one million sterling. THE HOUSE OF GODEFFKOY. 81 lands in Samoa, where they now own about 25,000 acres of the finest alluvial soil and. richest forest, all intersected by streams and rivers, acquired at a cost of about three shillings an acre ! On this land they are establishing large plantations, upwards of 4000 acres being devoted to cotton. To work these they employ about 1000 "foreign labour," imported from the multitudinous groups with which their vessels trade. Here, at Apia, they own a first-class harbour, and have estab- lished a regular shipbuilding-yard, wherein to refit old vessels and build new ones. And in many a remote isle, in various parts of the Pacific, they have acquired lands and harbours, to secure central points of operation. In the Ellis group they have bought the isle of Nukufetau, on account of its excellent harbour; and (passing onwards towards their original establishment at Cochin) they have secured 3000 acres on the isle of Yap, in the Pelew group, to the west of the Caroline Isles. I believe there is not one group in the Central Pacific where they iiave not established trading relations. They are said to have agents resident on every isle where there is any possibility of gain, and where the natives will tolerate the presence of a white man. Naturally the majority of these are by no means men calculated to improve the people; in many cases they are taken from the rifF-rafi", who in past years have sought in the isles an asylum from civilised laws, and by long residence have acquired a thorough knowledge of the habits and language of the natives. These men receive no salary. They are simply provided with the materials to build a solid house, and a supply of whatever trade is likely to prove acceptable to the people as barter, and are expected to accumulate an equivalent in produce within a reasonable period. No awkward questions as to character are asked. The sine qua non is a knowledge of the language, a poAver of discreet sdence, and a capability of not quarrelling with the natives. To further the latter requirement, their employers stipulate that every agent of theirs shall have his own "establishment," no matter from what isle he may import his companion. But they resolutely refuse to sanction the legal marriage of any German subject with a native woman. F 82 A LADY S CnUISK. Xor is this the only point in which this mighty anti-Cliristian firm opposes itself to all eflbrts for the inii)rovement of the j^eople. To all their Avidely scattered agents one clear direction is given: " Never assist missionaries either hy word or deed, but, whereso- ever you may find them, use your Lest influence with the natives to obstruct and exclude them." ^ It is interesting to find so plain an acknowledgment of the principles which animate so large a section of the mercantile com- munities in all quarters of the earth. In every case the opposition seems due to the same cause — a covert hatred to the teaching which discountenances immorality of all sorts, including that of exchanging bad goods at fictitious prices for useful products. It matters little whether blue beads and muskets, or opium (with a background of English artillery), be the goods to be disposed of, the principles involved, and the consequent antagonism to every agency for good, are necessarily the same. How well the agents and shipmasters carry out their instructions may be inferred from such an experience as that of the mission ship ]Morning Star, which, a few years ago, made her Avay to the Kingsmill group on the equator. A pilot came out to meet her, and made her anchor three miles from the village, desiring that no one should venture to land without permission from the king. The latter, on hearing that it was a missionary ship, recalled the counsels given to him by the captains of various trading vessels, who, he said, had all warned him that should a missionary ever come to the isles he must on no account be permitted to land, as he would shortly bewitch both king and people. So the wary monarch vowed that no such sorcerer should set foot in his realms ; and he accordingly sent a message to the strangers to say, that if they stood in need of anything he could give them, they should have it, but they must go right away, and never come back. Thus tlie unrighteous counsels prevailed, and the true friends were banished at the bidding of the selfish money-grubbers. It is unfortunately only too notorious that wherever, as in those 1 Vide New Zealand Blue-Book, 1874 — evidence of Mr Sterndale, late employe cf Mr Godeffrov. TRADERS VERSUS TEACHERS. 83 northern isles, the natives have derived their fust impressions of civilisation from traders, they have invariably deteriorated, and the white influence has been exerted to exclude all improving influences. On the other hand, throughout Polynesia, the mis- sionaries were the first to occupy the field, where traders dared not venture, and in every case they so tamed the fierce savages that commerce naturally followed in their wake and under their protection. Yet even here no debt of gratitude is considered due to the successors of those early pioneers ; and the antagonism of the traders to the missionaries is unfortunately notorious. From what I have told you, you can gather that the transactions of the house of Godeffroy are carried out on a pretty extensive scale ; and as all European goods are sold at a clear profit of a hundred per cent, exclusive of all expenses, they contrive to heap up riches at a very rapid rate. One of their peculiarities is, that they never insure their ships. They pay their shipmasters very low salaries, rarely exceeding £5 a-month, but supplement this sum by allowing them a commission of three per cent on the net profits of each voyage. Another peculiarity, which is particularly annoying to the white'\ community (and this is a point on which I speak feelingly), is that of despatching their ships from Apia with sealed orders, which are not opened till the vessel reaches a certain latitude, so that no one on board knows her destination. Consequently, however great a boon the chance of a passage might be to any person detained in the isles, or how valuable an opportunity of sending letters, ship after ship leaves this harbour without giving a hint of her intentions. The house of Godeffroy has not been the only purchaser of vast tracts of land in these isles. The Polynesian Land Company (whose claims to enormous tracts in the Fijian isles were somewhat upset by annexation, and the consequent necessity of proving their titles to their broad acres) carried on very pretty land speculations in Samoa, where they profess to have legally acquired about .300,000 acres on the four largest and most fertile islands. Their leader is a Mr Stewart, one of two brothers who have struck out for themselves very remaikable careers in these seas. The other 84: A LADYS CRUISE. brother was a well-kno-wn character in Tahiti, who blow a brilliant bubble company, which for a while dazzled the world of the South Seas — till the bubble burst, and the blower died miserably. H.B.M. Consulate, Tuesday Night. Yesterday evening we were sitting in the verandah enjoying the coolness of the lovely evening, when we heard very pretty singing in a garden near. Some gentlemen who were calling took me to the spot, where a large party of Samoan girls were sitting on the grass beneath the palms and rosy oleanders. The singing and surroundings were all attractive. Indeed it is difficult to look on such a peaceful scene, and realise how very recently it was a hide- ous battle-field ; and sad indeed to think how few days may elapse ere the grass — to-day so green — may be stained with the blood of all these fine men. In Samoan warfare the aim of each warrior is to secure as many heads as possible. Hence the sixty ghastly heads which were carried from here to all parts of the group only three months ago. But before they are so scattered, it is custom- ary for the victors to pile them up in a hideous pyramid, surmount- ed by the head of the highest chief slain. An ugly feature in war here, is the practice of a large body of men landing at dead of night at some distance from an unguarded settlement, and stealing- stealthily in, to surprise the unsuspecting sleepers : then suddenly rushing into the houses, slice off every man a head, of grey-haired patriarch or slumbering infant boy, and dashing down to the shore, where their canoes have meanwhile arrived, push off ere the startled villagers are sufficiently awake to arm for defence or ven- geance. Only male heads are required. It would be considered cowardly to kill a woman. Nevertheless these are sometimes des- perately wounded in the struggle to defend their little ones from their ruthless assassins. In old days, after a battle, such of the headless bodies as were recognised received decent burial ; the others were left as carrion, a prey to the village dogs and pigs. The influence of Christianity now secures burial for all. Strange to say, it also secures a rigid A SAMOAN VILLAGE. 85 observcance of the Sabbatli, on which day the belligerents, by com- , men consent, abstain from fighting, and allow teachers and mission- aries to pass freely in and out of their camps, holding religious services in which all join, each no doubt invoking the aid of the God of battles on his own behalf. I doubt whether many of the nations among whom Christianity has been long established, Avould pause in their battling from any deference to the day of rest. And though these raids and distributions of heads savour rather of Jewish than of Christian practices, I think the British Isles could have furnished pretty close parallels in the days of Border forays, when a foeman's head, stuck on a halbert, was reckoned no mean trophy ; or when one who was considered a traitor had fallen by the headsman's axe, and his head and quartered body were stuck on pikes — a ghastly spectacle for all men — while his entrails were thrown into the fire. So you need not decry the Christianity of these poor Samoans, because the old war-spirit still stirs in their veins. I have just had a visit from Mrs G. A. Turner, who most kindly called to ask whether I would like to accompany her husband to a lovely place, twelve miles from here, where he expects to have a large meeting of the people. It is very tempting, and being a three days' trip, would give me time for some sketches ; but there is so much that is interesting here, that I have reluctantly declined. After luncheon Mr Pritchard took me along the shore to Malin-M unu, the village on a peninsula, where the unfortunate skirmish occurred between the Samoans and the men of the Barracouta. It is now the seat of government, and here the Taimua and the Fai]}ide, who are the triumphant faction, reign. One of their English in- stigators occupies the house of Malietoa, the conquered king, and lives under the special protection of the men whom he has beguiled. It is a tidy village of thatched houses, smothered in bananas and tall sugar-cane. Wednesday Night. "We have been exploring all the near neighbourhood. Passing through the grounds of the Fathers' house (where the good bishop 86 A lady's cruise. gave us welcome), we ascended a pretty steep liill to tlie Catholic college for young men — a large and very orderly establishment. It was a pretty walk, through woods and cultivated ground. Everything seems to grow here, and some plantations are worked on a large scale with imported foreign labour. Cotton, sugar-cane, maize, coffee, nutmegs, cinnamon, arrowroot, tapioca, millet, barley, and even rice, of a sort which does not require irrigation, and can be grown on high levels. Vegetables of all sorts thrive in the French gardens, telling of industry and care ; but somehow here, as in riji, European flowers do not repay the trouble expended on them, except for old association. Their place is taken by the datura, with its heavy-scented, white, trumpet-shaped blossoms, the gay pride of Barbadoes, various fragrant jessamines, and hybis- cus of all cidours. In all these volcanic soils, water, and water only, is needed to convert the thirsty dust into most fertile earth. Here, what with perennial springs and an excessive rainfall, tlie mountains have an abundant water-supply ; and in every ravine a clear sparkling stream is fed by countless rills and waterfalls, cool and delicious. Eut so dry and thirsty are the lower hills, that the generous streams, giving instead of receiving, are actually absorbed ere they reach the seaboard, and only a bed of dry stones marks the channel, by which in occasional floods the torrents rush into the ocean. Consequently all cultivation on the lower levels involves artificial irrigation. The fish-supply here seems good. There are rock-fish in endless variety, — albicore, bonto, and a sort of salmon with white flesh, and a very delicate fish called the gar-fish, with a projecting lower jaw. "When this creature grows large and strong, it sometimes unintentionally proves a very dangerous neighbour, as when startled by the aj)proach of a canoe, it is very apt to spring on board with such force as seriously to injure any person whom it strikes witli its sword-like jaw. I believe that nude natives have actually been killed by those frightened creatures. The fishers here still practise the somewhat unfair method of stupefying fish by throwing into the water the bruised seeds of the hutu, or Bar- THE BALOLO. 87 ringtonia tree. Turtle abound, botli the hawk's-bill, which yields the tortoise-shell of commerce, and the green. Prawns, shrimps, and eels are found in the rivers, while the coral-reefs yield all manner of shell-fish, lobsters, and crabs. I hear that oysters are to be had, but have not seen any. Speaking of the reef, the natives say that they can foretell a storm, hours before its approach, by noticing the echini ^ crawling into snug holes where they* may lie secure, undisturbed by the raging waters. " The sea roars and the echini listen," is the Sam- - oan proverb to describe prudence. I have just heard with great interest that the halolo (here called palolo) — those curious sea-worms, concerning whose annual visit to Fiji I wrote to you at the time — also honour the reef of Apia with a call, just in the same mysterious manner, rising to the surface of the sea for a couple of hours before sunrise on one given day, which the natives can always calculate beforehand, so as to be out by midnight, watching for the first glimmer of dawn, when, sure enough, countless myriads of black and green worms, thin as threads, and perhaps a yard long, come to the surface — an easy prey to the joyous crowd of men and girls, who scoop them up in ]>askets, nets, gourds, anything they can get hold of, each trying who can collect the biggest share of the writhing, wriggling worms which, when baked in a banana-leaf, are esteemed a most delicious dainty, and do taste something like spinach and salt water, with a soujy^on of lobster. But the extraordinary thing about them is their only rising once a-year for two hours, and never mistaking their set time, then disappearing totally till the following year. In Samoa, I am told, the day falls in August. In Fiji a few come one morning in October, but their grand day is about 25th Hovevaher. This afternoon Captain Aube kindly lent us his whale-boat to take us across the creek to IMatautu, which is the further end of the settlement. We went to make some small purchases at the various stores, chiefly to see them. One of these belongs to the celel;rated Stewart, whose partner ])eing an American, the firm has 1 Sea-urchins. 88 A lady's ckuise. the adv^antage of flying eitlier the Union-jack or the Stars and Stripes, as may best suit the tide of affairs. At present this house is divided against itself ; and a few days ago tlie agent of the American partner declared - the place to be the sole property of his superior, and having sealed everything with the consular seal, he ran up the Stars and Stripes. Being, however, obliged to go to Fiji on business, Stewart's agent has broken these precious seals, and in the name of his chief, has hoisted the ensign of Britain. This is a fair sample of the sort of puU-devil, pull-baker way in which business is conducted in this curious community. It leads to endless complications, as each party invariably appeals to his consul to visit his opponent with aU the terrors of the law. At the present moment Stewart's store is a centre of interest, because the American consul wishes forcibly to remove thence a certain Captain Wright, a citizen of the United States, who defies his authority, and whom we saw sitting peacefully in the store, under the shadow of the Union- jack. The coin chiefly in circulation here is the Chilian and Bolivian dollar, of very debased silver, commonly known in the Pacific as " iron-money." Its introduction was one of the sharp speculations of Messrs Godefi"roy, who obtained an enormous amount at a very cheap rate, and therewith commenced trade Avith the Samoans, who accept the doUar as the equivalent of 100 cents, or the half-dollar as 50 cents, whereas two half-dollars or one whole, are barely worth 75 cents. So the profit on this little job was considerable — and if it has added one more straw to poor Samoa's burden of trouble, that is no concern of the traders. On our homeward way we called on a very friendly lady, who, with her daughters, was engaged in preparing an immense array of excellent pastry, for a great picnic " Fa-Samoa" ^ which is to be given to-morrow in honour of us, the visitors. Then we went on to the convent, to invite the good Sisters to join us, and bring aU ^ Fa " in the manner of" — Vaka-Vili, ..... Fiji-wise. Faka-Tonga, ..... Tonga- wise. Fa-Samoa, ..... Samoa-wise. INJUDICIOUS IXTERVENTIOy. 89 their girls. I am sure tliey Avill enjoy the chance of a French talk with their countrymen. It is quite impossible to get at the truth about anything here. Another German vessel went out of harbour this morning. Xo one knew she was going till she was actually under way. I can only hope that my letter may reach you some clay, by some route ! Meanwhile, good-night. CHAPTEE YIII THE ISHMAELITES OF THE PACIFIC — INJUDICIOUS INTERVENTION — FA-SAMOA PICNIC — A TOECH-LIGHT WALK — TRAINING-COLLEGE AT MALUA — APT ILLUSTRATIONS BY NATIVE PREACHERS — DR TURNER — MISSION TO THE NEW HEBRIDES — ESCAPE TO SAMOA — OF MANY CHANGES ON MANY ISLES. British Consulate, Thursday Night, 27th September. I was roused at early dawn by a French sailor appearing at my open door. (All rooms in these countries open on to the verandah.) He brought despatches, which he begged I would immediately translate for the vice-consul. A most senseless row has taken place, and all the inhabitants are in as great a turmoil as wasps whose nest has been disturbed. It appears that the American consul, though personally mixed ^\ up in many questionable transactions here, has contrived effectually to bewilder the mind of the too sympathetic and kind captain of the Seignelay, with the story of his woes, and of the ill-treatment and insults to which he has been subjected. So last night he went on board to solicit armed assistance to enable him to capture sev- eral refractory American subjects, who refused to acknowledge his authority. Without a thouglit of possible consequences, and acting on the kind impulse of giving the required help to an unfortunate official. Captain Aube agreed to lend Mr Griffin the necessary force. A 90 A LADY'S CRUISE. considerable body of armed men were accordingly landed at 10 p.m., and were led by the U.S. consul to Stewart's store, whence Captain "Wright had just departed. Stewart's agents wrote a protest against such proceedings, then walked out of the house, locking it, and pocketing the key, leaving only a sick man inside. They affirmed that Wright was not in the house, but added that if a warrant were obtained from the British consulate, the U.S. consul might search to his heart's content. Ignoring all remonstrance, the search- party broke open the house, and sought in vain for the bird who had flown. IMeanwhile another boat-load had gone in the opposite direction to search for more delinquents, none of whom were captured. And a third party came to demand the surrender of the house next to this one, which the bishop claims as Church property, though Stewart's agent has thought fit there also to hoist the British flag. This demonstration also proved futile, as the said agent, Mr Hunt, presented a firm front, and refused to quit the premises. The whole thing has been a sort of Don Quixote and the windmills business, resulting in nothing but stirring up much bad blood. Of course immense excitement prevails in consequence of this insult offered to a house flying the Union-jack. (Poor Union-jack ! it is made to sanction some very shady doings in these far corners of the earth.) The Franco - Griffin party allege that the house is American property, and that the unjustifiable proceeding was that of breaking open the U.S. consular seals and hauling down the Stars and Stripes ! At the best, it is a low, contemptible row ; and I am dreadfully sorry (as are all the French officers) that their kind captain's Quixotic kindness should have drawn him into it. But it is more difficult to arrive at the truth here than in any other place I know of. It seems as if every one's chief occupation in life was to rake up stories, old and new, against his neighbour ; and these are swal- lowed and made much of, without any allowance for the fact that they are retailed by vicious foes. Some of the poison-mongers in this poor settlement were well-known characters in Fiji, and only left it when, after annexation, it became too warm for their com- A '•' FA-SAMOA PICNIC. 91 fort. I have vainly tried to impress some of my friends with a due estimate of these men's antecedents, but to no purpose ; and I liear their words quoted as gospel. So great was the hubbub and perturbation from one end of " the beach " to the other, tliat our proposed picnic was very near being given up. However, wiser counsels prevailed, and angry feelings were smoothed over the more readily, as none of the principals were present. The party consisted of al^out a dozen ladies, and half as many French officers. Three of the sisters (Soeur Marie, Soeur St Hilaire, and ScEur Sept Martyrs) brought their little family of about sixty Samoan girls, who executed dances for our amuse- ment as we sat on the pleasant turf at the spot selected for luncheon — a grassy lawn embowered in golden alamanders and scarlet hyb- iscus, and other bright blossoms, which soon adorned the tawny heads of the scholars. The dances Avere monotonous and ungrace- ful, as usual here, degenerating into hideous grimaces. They have none of tlie attraction of the beautiful Fijian dances. 'Not have these damsels such pretty manners as the maidens in the Fijian schools. The little Doctor was considerably astonished (though he bore the shock philosophically) when a forward young woman danced up to him, and snatching off his hat, transferred it to her own well cocoa-nut-oiled head, while another patted his face with both hands, amid applausive laughter from her companions. But these were, happily, exceptional ; and many of the girls appeared gentle and modest, and several were very pretty, with lithe figures and splendid eyes. But they all have beautiful dark-brown eyes. A great feed, Fa-Samoa, was next spread on the grass, on layers of fresh green banana-leaves. There were roast sucking-pigs, and pigeons stewed in taro leaves, or else baked on hot stones in earth ovens ; cray-fish, and prawns, and divers kinds of fish ; pine-apples, bananas, and oranges ; salad of cocoa-palm, like most delicious celery; bread-fruit prepared in various ways — boiled, baked, and roast in wood-ashes ; wonderful native puddings, made of ripe plantains, iaro, bread-fruit, and other materials, each beat up fine, and baked separately, then all worked together with the creamy juice extracted from ripe cocoa-nut, which, when heated, turns to 92 A lady's cruise. oil, and is so exceedingly rich that few people can eat much of it. However, it is really very good — at least some preparations are. The puddings are so very oily that each portion is tied up separately in a strip of silky young bananadeaf, heated over the fire to make it oil-proof. In addition to these Samoan dainties, every lady had sent a con- tribution of pastry, salad, or other good things ; and the excellent cltef of the Seignelay had done his part admirably, as usual. !Nor had that hospitable vessel neglected to send ample remembrance from the vineyards of France, though the correct drink in the South Seas is the inevitable cocoa-nut water, — and an excellent one it is, cool and refreshing, provided the nut has just been gathered. !No matter how burning the sun in which it hangs, it is always cool when newly severed from beneath the crown of shady leaves ; but after a while it becomes slightly warm and mawkish in taste, so a true connoisseur requires his nuts to be plucked at the last moment. Then some ingenious native splits the thick outer husk by striking it on a sharp upright stick, and tears it all off, except a small green stand like an inverted bowl, which supports the nut, so that you need not empty it till you feel inclined. Then he cuts off the top of the nut, which is lined with the thinnest coating of white jelly. This is the pulp just beginning to form, and in this ivory-lined cup you find about two pints of clear sweetish water. "When a row of nuts thus prepared are placed for every guest at such a banquet as this, they suggest a row of brown- ish-yellow ostrich-eggs, mounted in pale-green enamel ! An excellent dish, which I would introduce at home were it possible, consists of young taro leaves, stewed in the rich oily cream of cocoa-nut kernel, mixed with salt water, which is the only sub- stitute for salt. Hence cocoa-nut shells containing sea-water are placed beside each guest, that he may therein dip his food to give it a relish. To have done quite the correct thing, our roast suck- ing-pigs should have been carved with a piece of split bamboo; but I fear that in this matter we were guilty of innovation, though Ave quite decided that bits of green banana-leaf were the nicest pos- sible plates. THROUGH THE FOREST. 93 We were happily not expected to partake of the national cakes, made of putrid bread-fruit. I told you how, in Fiji, vast stores of bananas are buried in pits, and there left for months to ferment, after which the pits are opened, and the pestilential odour that nearly poisons the unaccustomed nose, announces a great feast of mandrai — i.e., bread. In Samoa, bananas abound all the year round, so there is no need to store them. But bread-fruit is only in season for about six months, so the surplus crop is stored in pits lined with bananadeaves ; of course it soon ferments, but in that condition is preserved, perhaps, for years, as the older it is, the more highly it is prized. You can perhaps imagine how fearful is the smell of this dainty. But it is all a matter of taste — the ripe Stilton cheese, dear to the fine old English gentleman, is, to a Samoan, infinitely more revolting than his unfragrant cakes are to us. Our surroundings were beautiful. Far below us lay the blue Pacific with its white breakers and many tinted coral-reefs, and on every side the spurs and ravines of great green hills, all densely clothed with richest tropical vegetation, — huge eevie trees, with roots like coils of twisted snakes, and branches all bearded with long grey lichen, falling in streamers and entangled by tlie twining vines ; whde all manner of parasitic plants, orchids, and bird's-nest ferns, nestle in every crevice. We had come by a lovely path through groves of bread-fruit and bananas, oranges, and other flowering trees, with here and there patches of cultivation — tall sugar-canes and maize — then tree-ferns, matted with purple convolvulus, and with an undergrowth of soft green grass. The gleaming sunlight found its way through that leafy canopy, and its dancing rays checkered the cool dark shadows with flecks of golden green. It was all soft, and lovely, and peaceful. Ere the fragments of the feast, and the coffee-pots, and the crockery, were repacked, the brief tropical day was done, and the setting sun changed the broad blue waters into molten gold. Then we retraced our way through the forest, no longer sunlit, but sombre and very still, save for the sound of our own voices. But due provision had been made for the darkness ; and many friends 94 A lady's cruise. and relations of tlic Samoan girls had come out to meet us, carry- ing long torches of cocoa-palm leaves, which blazed with a clear bright light, throwing a ruddy glow on all around, on semi-nude dusky figures, glossy foliage, tall Avliite palm-stems, and the great buttressed roots of the chestnuts, and on the brown -thatched cot- tages, whence groups of pleasant olive- coloured people looked out and cried Alnfa! to which kind greeting we responded, Ola alofa ! 1 And so the Fa-Samo(X picnic has gone off very pleasantly, and we returned here to find all quiet, and to exchange the usual kindly courtesies with the refugees, who now have settled down for the night, as I must also do, that I may be ready to start at daybreak to get a sketch of the town and bay. II.B.M. CiiKsuLATE, Saturday Night. We returned this morning from a most interesting expedition to Malua, the great college of the London ]\Iission, of which J)v Turner, senior, is the head. It is about twelve miles from here, and Dr G. A. Turner, of the IMedical Mission, most kindly volun- teered to take ]\I. Pinart and myself in his l)oat. 80 he called for us yesterday morning, after an early breakfast. "We had a very beautiful row along the coast, and received the most cordial of welcomes from the Doctor, who is a fine old Scot, Avith a pretty, l)leasant, Highland wife. You home people can perhaps scarcely realise what a very great pleasure it is, in a far land like this, to find one's self suddenly dropped into the very heart of a real ►Scotch nest of the best type, and at once to be treated like a friend. I have found such a welcome from many of my country- men in many lands, but nowhere more i)leasantly than in the peaceful home at Malua. The present Mrs Turner was the widow of i\rr ]M'Xair, one of the missionaries of Erromango, whose little daughter Ella, a pretty child eight years of age, is the pet of the family. You must not infer from my speaking of a college, that Malua ' Great love to i'ou. COLLEGE AT MALUA. 95 bears the slightest resemblance to any collegiate institution in Europe. It is essentially South Sea, which means that it is suitable to the climate and the people, and it consists of a large village of about sixty neat thatched cottages, laid out in a square, at one side of which stands the large class-room. Each cottage is the home of a student with his wife and family, preference in the filling up of vacancies being given to married men, both as a means of educating the women and children, and also because the people, in applying for teachers, generally ask for one whose wife can teach their wives and daughters.^ Each cottage home is embowered in pleasant greenery and bright flowers, for each student is required to cultivate a garden sufficient for the requirements of his family, and to raise a surplus supply, which he may sell to provide them with clothing. Dr Turner himself founded this college in the year 1844, when the mission began to realise the extreme difficulty of keeping up a supply of trained teachers, not only for two districts in the group itself, but for the numerous other isles to which Samoan teachers had gone forth as pioneers. Besides, those early days had passed when the foreigners had been received as heaven-sent messengers, and hailed as the Papa- langl — i.e., those who have rent the heavens (the name still ap- plied to all foreigners throughout Polynesia). At first it was enough that a teacher had learnt the leading doctrines of Chris- tianity as opposed to idolatry ; but now these were generally accepted by all the people, many of whom took careful notes of every sermon they heard, and were as keen as any old wife in Scotland, in detecting any error in the teaching of their minister. Small mercy would these Samoan critics have shown to such a preacher as that young curate who, in his anxiety to improve the story of the Prodigal Son, expatiated at such length on the })eculiar sacrifice made in the selection of the fatted calf, which 1 Apparently women are held in liigher estimation by the Samoans tiian by some folk in the British Lsles. I have just heard of a Highlander driving a very fierce bull along a highroad. To him, quoth a friend, "That is a dangerous- looking brute ! " " Ou na ! " replies the owner ; " he is just as ceevil as a sheep. He wadna hurt onybody, unless, maybe, weenien and bairns and suchlike ! " 96 A lady's cruise. was no common calf, but one wlncli had evidently been a house- hold pet for Years, and Years, and YEAKS ! The Samoans are natural orators, and love to illustrate their subject with facts and comparisons from every source within their ken. So the preacher who would rivet the attention of his hearers needed to have studied his subject well. But at that time he had no books to help him, no commentaries to refer to, only a transla- tion of three Gospels and a few Scripture lessons; and many a teacher felt, what one expressed, — namely, that he was like a man attempting to cut down a forest with a blunt axe ; or like a foolish man, always hammering, but never hitting the nail on the head. The necessity of an educational institution was therefore ap- parent, and the chiefs were so favourably disposed to the scheme, that they offered to clear out of a whole village and make it over to the mission. It was, however, considered preferable to buy a l^iece of land on the coast, in a place quite apart from all other settlements ; so Malua was selected, and fifty acres of land pur- chased in due form. This land was reclaimed from the bush by the students themselves, who raise yams, taro, and bananas in abundance, and have also planted several thousand bread-fruit trees, cocoa-palms, and other fruit-bearing trees ; so that this noble institution is almost, if not altogether, self-supporting. From its commencement to the present day, fully two thousand teachers and native ministers have been here trained, including a considerable number of men from far-distant Papuan Isles — from the Xew Hebrides, Kew Caledonia, the Tokelau, and Savage Isles — all speaking different tongues, but here meeting together to learn what they can, and then carry the truth to their own distant isles. Oh how these perplexed teachers must long for a new Pente- costal gift, to enable them to address these men, each in his own language ! It would be difficult to imagine a healthier, happier life, than that of these students. At the first glimmer of the lovely tropical dawn, the college bell rings to mark the hour for household prayer. (There is probably not a house in Samoa where the family do not assemble daily for morning and evening prayer.) Then all the A COLLEGE LIFE IN SAMOA. 97 students go out, either to work in tlie gardens, or to fish in the calm lagoon. At eight the bell rings again to warn them that it is time to bathe and breakfast, to be ready for their class at nine. Classes and lectures continue till four, when they are again free to go fishing, gardening, carpentering, or whatever they prefer. At sunset each family meets for evening prayer ; then the men study by themselves till half-past nine, when the curfew bell (true couvre-feu) warns them to put out their lights. On Saturday evening there is a prayer-meeting in the institution chapel, when the students take it in turn to deliver a short address. Sunday is of course observed very strictly. The day begins with a prayer-meeting at six. At morning and afternoon service all the neighbouring villagers assemble, and the intervening and later hours are filled up with Sunday-school for children and Bible- classes for adults. A simple service, with a good deal of singing, ends the day. The Holy Communion is celebrated on the first Sunday of each month. The institution rules are few and simple ; but for any infringe- ment of them the penalty is a fine, which goes towards the expense of lights. The course of instruction includes arithmetic, geography, natural pliilosophy, writing, composition. Scripture history, and systematic and practical theology. For lack of books, Dr Turner and his fellow-tutor found it necessary, day by day, to write out copious notes of their lectures, and give them to all the young men to copy. Consequently each, on leaving the college, at the end of a four years' course, carried with him a large store of papers for reference. Thanks to the diligent labours of Dr Turner and his colleagues (who during many years devoted about five hours daily to prepar- ing translations for publication), the libraries of Samoa now con- tain Scripture narratives and commentaries on the Old Testament, — commentaries on the Epistles and Gospels, Elements of Astron- omy, Elements of ]S"atural Philosophy, and various other works. We were told various examples of the acute and pithy remarks G 98 A lady's cruise. of the native teachers, and of the excellent illustrations they some- times make use of. Thus a hollow professor is likened to the cast- off shell of a lobster, so perfect in every claw and feeler, even to the transparent covering of the eyes, that the fisher, peering into the clear pools on the reef, mistakes it for a true and excellent prize, and only learns his error as he grasps the worthless shell. A strange illustration of " cutting off a right hand or a right foot, or plucking out a right eye, that offend," was given by a teacher at Tutuila, who told how often he had watched the mcdi 'o, or land-crab, which by day burroAvs deep in the soil, but by night hurries down to the sea to feed and drink. It is a wondrous cleanly creature ; and the Samoans declare that if on its seaward way, as it presses through the tall grass, it should chance to come in contact with any filth, which adheres to its legs, it will deliber- ately wrench them off, and thus, self-mutilated, hobbles back to its hole, there to hide till its legs grow again. It is positively affirmed that this most extraordinary crab has been known deliberately to wrench off its eight legs in succession, and then drag itself home Avith the greatest difficulty by means of its nippers. I must con- fess I think this crab would have shown more common-sense had he gone to the sea or the nearest stream and washed his dirty legs. But you must allow that the illustration was an apt one. Those who on hearing good words hearken, and for a season dwell on them in their hearts, but after a while return to their careless ways, are compared to the sensitive plant, which when touched closes its leaves and droops to the very earth, but anon rises up again as brave as ever. A backslider is compared to a certain fish which comes from the ocean to feed on the reef, and which for a day or two continues silvery white, but after a while becomes dark and unwholesome. A little sin is as a hole in a fisherman's basket, through which, one by one, fall the fish for which he has toiled so eagerly. First he loses all his little fish, and gradually, as the hole enlarges, the large fish also escape, and at last he reaches his journey's end with an empty basket. . The taint of old sins, clinging to one who would fain put away THE DANGER OF LITTLE SINS, 99 evil things, is compared to a strongly scented oil, with which a bottle-gourd has once been filled. Many and many a time must that gourd be washed ere it will lose the scent, and be fit to hold water for drinking.^ Still more striking is the illustration of a stately bread-fruit tree, fair to look upon, with large glossy leaves and abundant fruit, — a tree which in the natural course of healthy life will, when full grown, send up from its roots strong shoots, which yield their first crop in the second or third year, so that ere long the patri- archal tree is the centre of a leafy fruit-bearing grove. But there is an insignificant-looking parasitic fungus — merely a black spot like the smut that comes on wheat — which is fatal to this fair tree. Once it can establish itself, it spreads like a canker. The rich green leaves turn yellow, and the disease is soon carried from tree to tree, till the whole grove is sickly and blighted. It brings no fruit to perfection, and ere long the trees are dead. Only one antidote is known. It is said that there grows in the depths of the forest a glorious lily,'^ and that if some of its bulbs are brought and planted among the roots of the sickly trees, they will recover. And so, when the deadly rust of sin has cankered the heart of man, one only remedy can avail, — the life - giving influence of Him who is called the true Lily. Again, another teacher illustrates the necessity of rooting out all bad habits, no matter how trifling they may seem, by the example of the wild taro, which sends rootlets creeping in every direction, so that though the main root may be dug up, suckers innumerable remain, which need only time to bring them to sturdy life. Another parable is furnished by the sugar-cane, which grows tall and beautiful to the eye, but unless due care is taken to clear away the decayed leaves from around its roots, worms gather there, and pierce the cane, and rapidly multiplying within, fatten and 1 The Rev. W. Wyatt Gill lias recorded a nniltitude of most interesting ex- amples of such parables from nature. Moreover, happily for all lovers of such lore, he has, during his mission career in the Ilervey Isles, found time to preserve many delightful " Myths and Songs from the South Pacific." It is much to be wished that the same could be done for other groups. Crinum asiaticuni. / 100 A LADYS CRUISE. flourisli, so tliat when the husbandman gathers his cane, he finds its precious juice all gone, and in its place a multitude of loath- some worms. Even such, said the preacher, is the growth of little sins. The soul that seeks to soar heavenward is likened to the ^jz'rw/ri — a small hird, which, like the skylark, seems to lose itself in the light. On the other hand, the snow-white tern, which, beneath its lovely white plumage, has a dull black skin, is a meet symbol of the hypocrite, whose fair feathers shall one day be plucked off, to reveal the false professor. Some of the questions propounded by the students are equally noteworthy, and few indeed suggest that confused wool-gathering of which every school examiner in Britain can quote such strange examples. The question asked by one young man was, " What is meant by Satan falling from heaven 1 " And I could not help thinking of the rash Sunday-school teacher who asked her class why, in Jacob's dream, the angels were seen descending by a ladder. To which replied a sharp child, " Please, 'twas because the angels were puking, and they couldna flee ! " She had charge oi her mother's poultry, which just then were moulting, so the comparison was forcible. Hitherto the students do not^appear to have been troubled with any speculative difficulties regarding the IMosaic account of Crea- tion, which, in Samoa, has reversed the European order, and has superseded the " Darwinian " theor3^ According to the legend of the isles, " In the beginning " the great god Tangaloa sent his daughter, in the form of a bird, to visit the great waters, which then covered the face of the earth. She found a rock rising above the surface, and there rested a while ere returning to the heavens. From time to time she revisited the rock, and carried thither some earth — and then a creeping plant. After a while she returned, and her plant had covered the earth, which gradually enlarged, as the waters dried up. Then the plant withered and decayed, and as it turned into slimy nastiness, a multitude of worms appeared, and they grew fat and flourished, and in due course of time men and v.'oiaen were evolved. So, you see, the Samoans had traced the CUSTOMS OF JUDEA ILLUSTRATED. 101 human race back to its slimy origin, long before Dr Darwin electri- fied the civilised world with his discoveries ; but they have now .• discarded that ignoble ancestry in favour of the Divine theory. / A Samoan teacher often illustrates his meaning by some ingeni- ous allusion to the old legends and mythology of the isles. In his expositions of the Old Testament he is greatly assisted by the number of Samoan customs, strangely analogous to those of Syria and Palestine. Dr Turner has collected a multitude of such identities — and also of the striking metaphors and hyperboles dear to the Samoans. Thus, " Him that overcometh will I make a pillar in the temple of my God," had strange significance to those who believed that in Pulotu, the Samoan Paradise, the temple of their great god was supported by human pillars, who in this world had been great chiefs, whose highest aim had been the attainment of this honoured office. " They took branches of palm - leaves and went forth to meet Him, crying Hosanna," suggests the green leaves and branches often carried by the followers of a chief, and their songs in his praise. In rejoicing, David " dancing and leaping before the ark," ex- actly describes the leaping and dancing and strange capers which even a high-caste chief will perform as he goes before a person or thing whom he wishes to honour. Piddles, such as those propounded by Samson, are among the commonest amusements of Samoa, and are combined with forfeits. With reference to King David's prayer, when " he went in and sat before the Lord," it is remarked that in Samoa, as in all the Polynesian groups, it is a mark of disrespect to stand in the presence of a superior. To sit on the ground with the head bent down is the correct attitude of reverence and devotion. In the account of David's covenant with Jonathan, the latter " stripped himself of the robe that was upon him, and gave it to David," — an action which is the commonest expression of friend- ship in the South Seas. " He kissed him, and smelled the smell of his raiment," is an excellent description of the South Sea custom of greeting all 102 A lady's cruise. friends with a prolonged and impressive sniff. They touch nosps and sniff, and then smell the hand and the garment of the superior. " Children by adoption " is strangely expressive in isles where every family has adopted children. The term " brothers " includes nephews and cousins in Samoa as in Judea. " Endless genealo- gies," and reverence for ancestry, are equally marked features in both races. " Take up thy bed and walk " is easily understood, where a pile of soft mats is the bed of the highest chief. " They cast off their clothes, and threw dust in the air " is a Samoan expression of great anger. The expressions descriptive of mourning for the dead in Syria might have, been written in the South Seas. "They rent their clothes and cut themselves." " They disfigure their faces." Even so, those strange islanders deliberately cut their faces with sharks' teeth and other sharp instruments, and bruised their heads with stones in token of grief. " Cut off thine hair and take up a lamentation ; " " Make great wailing for the dead ; " " They mourned for him thirty days ; " "They ate the offerings of the dead;" They fast "till the sun be down," — all exactly describe Samoan custom. Further, " They made a very great burning for him." (Here they made great bonfires in honour of the dead and also burned their own flesh with firebrands.) The custom alluded to by the man of Mount Ephraim, who spoke to his mother of " the shekels of silver that were taken from thee, about which thou cursedst," had its counterpart in heathen Samoa, where a man would sit down and deliberately invoke curses on an unknown thief, praying that rats might eat his fine mats and cloth; that fire might blast his eyes and those of his god ; that the shark might devour him, or the thunder slay him ; or that at least he might be afflicted with sores and ulcers. Even to this day you may sometimes observe a tiny square of matting, witlL strips of white tappa, hanging from a fruit-tree, or a few reeds stuck into the ground and tied together at the top (clam-shells being buried beneath them), or some similar mark which appeals to the ^VAR CUSTOMS. 103 superstitious fear of tlie possible thief, warning him of the curses that will attach to whoever breaks the taboo. I have seen this identical custom in many lands, from Ceylon eastward. A suspected thief was put upon oath in presence of the chiefs. Some venerated object was brought from the temple — a sacred stone, a trumpet -shell, or a cocoa-nut shell, which ranked as a divining -cup — and the accused, laying his hand on this object, had to pray that the gods would slay him if he spoke falsely. If he swore by a holy stone, a handful of grass was laid upon it, to signify that the doom of the false swearer would include his house- hold, and that all his kindred would perish, and the grass grow on the site of their dwelling. With reference to war customs. " The Philistine cursed David by his gods." " Curse ye Meroz, . . . because they came not to the help of the Lord." So would a company of Samoan chiefs sit in conclave, and pray that the gods would curse those who refused to help in war. "Let his house be made a dunghill." "They shall bring out the bones out of their graves." " Fell every good tree, and stop all wells of water." All these were literal features in Samoan warfare. " Lay ye the heads in two heaps at the enter- ing in of the gate," was also quite a natural direction. The descrip- tion of the songs of the Jewish women in honour of the victor, when " the women answered one another as they played, and said, Saul hath slain his thousands, And David his ten thousands," might have been Avritten of Samoan women describing the deeds of their warriors, and thereby often stirring up bitter anger and jealousies. With regard to weapons, the " sling and stone," the " smooth stone of the brook," the "arrows, . . . the poison whereof drinketh up my spirit," exactly describe those of the Pacific ; while the description of Saul encamped under a tree, " having his spear in his hand," is a true picture of any fine old Soutii Sea chief. Further, it is said, " The trumpeters stood by the king ; " and though the trumpets of the Pacific are only perforated shells, the blast blown through them in honour of a chief, or to 104 A lady's ckuise. rally ■warriors in time of war, is sufficiently piercing to rouse the dead. The crown and the bracelet worn by King Saul in battle seem most natural adornments to these chiefs, whose bracelets and crowns (if nautilus shell attracted our admiration at their council of war. As our Lord spoke of unclean spirits walking through dry places, seeking rest, so these islanders believe that unquiet spirits roam at large in the forest, and they propitiate them by offerings of food. In the Xew Hebrides, Dr Turner met ^with a curious illus- tration of that strange history of Elisha giving his staff to Gehazi, and bidding him lay it on the face of the sick child. The staff of the "New Hebrides was a polished stick of black iron-wood, which was the representative of a god, whose ministering priest was one of the disease-makers. When summoned to attend a case of sick- ness, this sacred staff was carried to the sick man's room, and the priest, leaning upon it, pronounced certain charmed words, after which recovery Avas considered certain. In Samoa and other groups, all disease was supposed to be the work of malignant wizards, therefore to them the friends of the sick applied for healing, or at least for counsel, even as Ahaziah sent his messengers to the priests of the god of Ekron to learn Avhether he would recover of his sickness. For the healing of the sick, as well as conferring honour and personal comfort, " anointing with oil " was as familiar in Judea as in Samoa. " Thou anointest my head with oil," might be said by any honoured guest in these isles ; while " oil to make him of a cheerful countenance " was equally requisite. St James's direc- tions for the healing of the sick by the prayers of the Church elders, and anointing with oil, literally describe the course pursued in various parts of the Pacific — as, for instance, in the Tokelau isles, where the friends of a sick man send for the priest of the disease-making god, who comes, and dipping his hand in oil, passes it gently over the sufferer, offering prayers for his recovery. An important part of the ceremony, however, not prescribed by St James, is the offering of fine mats to the priest. These are but a few of the multitude of illustrations collected MARRIAGE SPECULATIONS. 105 by Dr Turner.^ There are many more, such as the occasional custom of embalming the dead, the compulsory observance of the rite of circumcision, contempt for nations who neglect it, marriage customs, the punishment of death for aduli^ery, the law of divorce ; the singularly patriarchal law which obliged each bride to be accompanied by one or more handmaids, taken from among her near relations, and who filled the place of secondary wives — so that a chief who owned three or four wives, possessed such a large and troublesome harem, that the majority Avere generally allowed to return to their parents ; and lastly, the custom that a widow must become the wife of her deceased husband's brother, or, failing him, of his nearest male relative. The plurality of wives appears, singularly enough, to have been little more than a business transaction, in which the principal had very small interest. The marriages of a high chief were simply so many speculations in fine mats, which the bride brought as her dower, and which the bridegroom was expected to hand over to his principal si;pporters, or head-men, who had arranged the match, and provided the feast. These men were the bankers of the tribe in whose hands its property accumulated ; and of course they lost no means of adding to it, as well as of strengthening clan connec- tions by multiplying marriages. Hence this question formed one of the chief difficulties of the early missionaries. This very practical reason for polygamy also accounted in a great measure for the curious custom of adopting the children of living parents, which prevailed to so extraordinary an extent. It appears that the child was really little more than an excuse for a constant exchange of property, its true parents constantly sending gifts of tonga — that is, native property — to the adoptive parents ; while these as often sent back goodwill-oflferings of oloa — I.e., foreign goods. When the students are considered sufficiently advanced, they are occasionally sent to help the teacher of one of the neighbour- ing villages, and practise the art of preaching, ere being appointed 1 Nineteen Years in Polynesia. By the Rev. George Turner, London ilissionary Society. lOG A lady's cruise. to the sole cliargG of a congregation. Of course only the well- tried men are promoted to the rank of native minister. The scale of ecclesiastical pay is certainly not such as to induce men to enter the service of the Church for filthy lucre's sake. A house, a certain amount of food, and a small annual contribution in kind, the value of which in no case exceeds £10, and is gene- rally much less, is certainly not an undue share of loaves and fishes, especially as no agent of the mission is allowed to engage in any manner of trade, or other secular occupation, beyond the cultivation of his own garden. Tlie annual contribution of his parishioners consists probably of half-a-dozen mats, value from 2s. to 6s. ; 30 to 40 yards of calico, value 6d. a yard ; some pieces of native cloth, worth Is. each; a larger piece of tappa, for a cur- tain ; a shirt, a fowl, a duck, two pigs, and a few nondescript coins of various nations and small value. I have heard so many unfair and untrue insinuations made by white traders, and quoted without further inquiry by many travellers, to the effect that many missionaries are in reality grasp- ing and avaricious traders, that it may be as well to mention that such false accusations are invariably made by men who find their unjust gains somewhat lessened by the presence of men whose standard of barter is more honourable. If a native comes to work for a missionary, or brings him vegetables or fish for sale, and receives in payment a larger piece of cloth, or a knife — both of better quality than he would receive from the trader — he naturally learns something of the fair value of his work, or his goods. ^Moreover, one of the first proofs of vitality given by these island churches (as in every healthy branch of the Christian Church) has always been a readiness to contribute, not only to the general expenses of the mission in their own country, but also to sending forth teachers to the isles which are still steeped in hea- tlienism. As it lias been most convenient to make these payments in kind, eax;h district has collected its own offerings, chiefly in the form of measures of cocoa-nut oil ; and these contributions have been annually conveyed to the home market by the mission ship on her return cruise. Hence the nickname of " Palm-oil UNFAIR FAULT-FIXDING. 107 Ship," so derisively bestowed by men "whose very limited notions of their own religious duties certainly do not include any obligation to support foreign missions. Another source of equally uncalled-for fault-finding has been the receiving of payment for copies of the Bible and other books, as if the mission, having gone to enormous expense in printing successive editions, each of several thousand copies (and the pub- lication of works in an unknown tongue is at all times a trouble- some matter), were to blame in offering these for sale, at prices varying from Is. to 2s. a volume — that is to say, little, if at all, in excess of cost price. A copy of every book published in the Samoan language is given gratis to each student, and to every agent of the mission. How eagerly the precious books have been liought up by other natives, is shown by the fact of their having voluntarily paid several thousand pounds to acquire copies for themselves. At the present moment the students at the college number eighty — all fine young men ; of these forty-tAvo are married, and occupy the pretty cosy cottages which form this South Sea college. There are also about twenty big boys, and a number of small ones, all receiving a most careful education. These are gathered from every island in the group, and represent many of the principal families, who support the different parties noAv striving for suprem- acj. But this is neutral ground, respected by all parties, so poli- tics are excluded as far as is possible. After luncheon, all these assembled to meet us in the large native church — a fine building, of white coral lime, rounded at the ends like a Tongan house, and with a deep thatch roof. I never saw a finer lot of men and women, with keen intelligent faces. I fear their verdict on the foreign lady must have been very differ- ent; for, what with my early sketching expedition on foot, and then the long twelve miles in the boat, in glaring light from sun and sea, I literally could scarcely keep my eyes open ; and having foolishly striven to do so, after luncheon (when I might have obtained the blessed " forty winks " in private), I paid the penalty when we reached the cool dark church, and had the humiliatinff 108 A lady's cruise. consciousness tliat the struggle was becoming vainer and more vain, till at length the angel of sleep triumphed, and held me captive, while M. Pinart put the students through a slight examination, simply as a matter of form. Afterwards we wandered about the settlement, which is in every respect a model one, and then we enjoyed a pleasant evening at the calm peaceful mission-house, which stands on a grassy headland, palm-fringed, the sea washing three sides of the lawn. It is quite an idyllic home, — a true earthly paradise, Avhere the useful and loving life glides on day by day, undisturbed by the wars and rumours of war on every side. But the peace and the home have alike been purchased by many a year of hard ungrudging toil in the heat and burden of the day. For Dr Turner began his mission career in stormy times. Soon after the Eev. John Williams had been treacherously murdered at Eromanga in the Xew Hebrides, in November 1839, the London Mission Society determined to make a renewed effort for the con- version of its fierce inveterate cannibals. Mr and Mrs Turner were accordingly sent on this most dangerous mission. They were joined in Samoa by Mr and ]\Irs I^isbet, and together proceeded to the ]S^ew Hebrides. The day before Mr Williams's death, he had succeeded in land- ing three Samoan teachers as pioneers, on the isle of Tanna, twenty miles from Eromanga. To this isle the missionaries now sailed — not without grave doubts whether they should find the teachers alive. (It was now June 1842.) They found them safe, but their work had made small progress. The people were continually at war, and most unconscionable thieves. They had, however, two good points — infanticide was not common, and they were careful of their own sick, so far as they knew how. But wilder and more savage surroundings could scarcely be conceived than those in which the Turners and K'isbets found themselves left, when the little vessel which had brought them from Samoa had sailed away. They soon discovered one serious difi'erence between the !N'ew Hebrides and the isles of the Eastern Pacific. In the latter, one DISEASE-MAKERS. 109 language is understood throughout a whole grouj), with only such variations as occur between Yorkshire and Somerset. But in the 'New Hebrides, each island speaks a totally different dialect, and though within sight one of another (as Fortuna, Aneiteum, Tanna, and Eromanga) they cannot understand one another; and the books printed for one would be totally useless for the next. Even on the same island the diff"erent tribes are so isolated by war and jealousies that their language remains as totally distinct as that of the Celts and Saxons in Scotland or Wales. This circumstance, added to the intense jealousies of the tribes, made it a matter of extreme difficulty, as well as danger, to attempt visiting different villages, in which endeavour Mr Turner and Mr Kisbet nevertheless persevered, always at the risk of their lives, being inspired with an intense belief in the reality of their Lord's command (to go into all the world and preach to all His human creatures), and also in His protecting care. So when a vessel touched the isle, and off"ered to carry them all away, the mission band refused to desert their post, and for seven months contrived to maintain their ground. But it was a constant struggle and never-ceasing danger. During five months out of the seven the tribes were at war, and at last the whole powerful body of sacred medicine-men — the rain-makers and thunder-makers, and especially the diseaae-makers — were filled with such jealousy of the foreigners who gave away medicines, and so diminished their gains, that they stirred up the islanders generally to believe that the dysentery, coughs, and influenza which had recently, for the first time, appeared in the group, were all produced by the white men ; and, strangely enough, their assertion seemed confirmed by the fact that the tribe among whom the missionaries were living, actually escaped these illnesses. So about two thousand wild savages united for a more deter- mined onslaught on this friendly tribe ; and at last, seeing matters were desperate, the little band of Christians, nineteen in all, were compelled to Hy for tlieir lives. They accordingly emljarked at dead of night in an open boat and a canoe, hoping to reach the Isle Aneiteum, preferring to face the certain hardshi^^s of sucli a 110 A lady's cruise. voyage to tlie worse certainty of being consigned to cannibal ovens. The sea was, however, wild and tempestuous; and after vainly struggling for several hours to make head against it, they were compelled to return to land, and happily re-entered their own house before any of the natives had discovered their flight. Matters now seemed desperate; but, as the old proverb says, " jNIan's extremity is God's opportunity." "When the villages were blazing on every side of them, and their last hours seemed at hand, a sail hove in sight. It proved to be The Iliglilander (name of good omen), a whaler, whose captain, knowing that the Turners and Nisbets had gone to Tanna, thought he would just run in and see if they were still alive. The presence of the foreign ship stayed the fighting for the moment, and enabled the mission party very quietly to make their prei:)arations for embarking. This was on Saturday. On Sunday, they as usual abstained from any manner of Avork, and held public worship. Soon after midnight tliey silently stole forth, and though their chapel and outhouses, and even the boat -shed, were crowded with people from the neighbouring villages, whose homes had been burnt by the enemy, not one awoke till almost all the party were safely on board with their baggage. So this was accomplished without the dreaded opposition. At last some men awoke, and then messengers flew through the district to summon the chiefs. Mr Turner asked them all to come on board to bid him farewelL Eleven did so, and expressed their grief at all that had occurred ; one fine old chief wept like a child, but none ventured to bid the white men stay. In truth, they said that they expected themselves to be exter- minated as soon as the vessel had departed. Seeing no possibility of establishing a mission on any of the neighbouring isles, Mr Turner induced Captain Lucas to convey the whole party to Samoa — a journey which was not without danger, owing to baffling winds and the lack of any reliable chart. They narrowly escaped coming to grief as they passed through the Fiji group, wliere the vessel was becalmed and quickly sur- rounded by large war-canoes, each manned by from fifty to a hundred most formidable, armed savages. Providentially a light WITCHCRAFT. Ill breeze sprang up and carried them away from that danger ; and so in due time they reached Apia, where they found welcome and much-needed rest and comfort. Soon after, Mr Turner was appointed to the charge of a district in Samoa, which gave him the care of sixteen villages; but ere long the pressing need of teachers led to the commencement of the training college, where, with the exception of occasional voyages to the JSTew Hebrides and other groups, he and his successive col- leagues have ever since found abundant work, in training native evangelists, translating valuable books, and, so far as lay in their power (not having received a regular medical training), in minis- tering to the temporal needs of the people, administering such medicines as they could procure, and even, under pressure of necessity, attending to surgical cases. Their chief care, however, was to vaccinate every man, woman, and child within reach, a precaution to which may bo attributed the happy circumstance that there has never been a case of smallpox in Samoa, though it is visited by so many foreign shij^s. In many other groups, where some chance vessel has touched, the deadly infection has been left, and in some cases about a third of the population has died, Dr Turner observed that the people of Tanna are in mortal dread of a form of witchcraft precisely similar to that so com- monly practised in Fiji in its heathen days (and perhaps, sub rosa, even now ; for we noticed the extreme care with which some of our followers occasionally collected and buried every scrap of food which they, or we, had touched). The Fijians believed that if they could get a fragment of the hair or food of an enemy, or a small bit of any garment he had worn, the heathen priest could therewith work a spell which should cause death within four days. The priest kindled a fire and per- formed incantations over these relics, approaching the spot only on his hands and knees. The wizard of Tana is a professional disease-maker. He prowls about, continually seeking for refuse of any sort which he can turn to account. An old banana-skin, a bit of a cocoa-nut, the parings of a yam, will answer his purpose. He wraps it in a leaf, that no 112 A lady's cruise. one may kuow exactly wliat he has found. He ties the parcel round his neck, and stalks about ostentatiously through the vil- lages. In the evening he scrapes some bark off a certain tree, mixes it with the rubbish he has found, rolls it all together in a leaf, like a very long cigar, and lays it close to the fire, so that one end may gradually smoulder. As it burns, the true owner becomes ill ; and as the pain increases, he calls to his friends, who imme- diately recognise the work of the disease-maker, and blow loud blasts on the trumpet-shell, which can be heard at a distance of two or three miles. This is a pledge that if he will stop burning the rul)bish, they will bring him offerings of their best mats, pigs, &c. The wizard, hearing the blast, draws away the green cigar, and waits impatiently to see what gift his dupes will bring in the morning. They firmly believe that if the cigar is allowed to burn to the end, the victim must die. Should the pain return, the friends suppose the wizard is dissatisfied with his gifts, and they l)low louder than before, making night hideous with their dismal noise, and load the disease-maker with presents, all of which he of course readily accepts. Should the man die, the friends merely suppose they failed to propitiate the wretch. These wizards were the worst foes of the mission party, and were for ever trying to work spells for their destruction, though happily without effect. You can readily understand how a people deeply imbued Avith the faith in this possibility of working mischief, were always ready to attribute to the missionaries those epidemics of illness, formerly unknown, which so strangely seem to have broken out in almost every group soon after the arrival of white men — generally influenza, measles, smallpox, or dysentery, each of which has invariably jn-oved a deadly pestilence when first attacking these races. I have just told you how this belief resulted in the mission being driven from Tanna. About the same time, dysentery ap- peared in the neighbouring isle of Fotuna, and led to the massacre of the Samoan teachers who had been left there by Mr Williams. It also ravaged Eromanga, carrying off one-third of the population, MALICIOUS SAILING-GODS. 113 who believed that the scourge had been introduced by some hatchets which they had received as barter from a sandal-wood ship, and accordingly they threw them all away. On several other islands the teachers were either murdered or compelled to flee for their lives, solely on this account. What makes this more remarkable is, that these illnesses often followed the visit of a ship which itself had a perfectly clean bill of health; and in many cases the missionaries and other good authorities recorded that they had no reason to believe that any white man had been to blame for the introduction of new diseases. Therefore the poor islanders naturally concluded that these scourges were introduced by malicious foreign gods ; so when a Samoan family assembled for their evening meal, the head of the house, ere tasting his bowl of kava, poured a little on the ground as a drink-offering to the gods ; and every voice was hushed while he prayed that the gods of Samoa would give increase and prosper- ity to the household and all pertaining to it ; that the war-gods Avould give strength to the people; but to such foreign gods as might have arrived in Tongan canoes or great ships, he said — - " Here is kava for you, O sailing gods ; do not com© ashore at this place, but be pleased to remain on the ocean, and go to some other land ! " Sometimes the worshippers preferred to leave this matter in the care of their own protecting gods. In that case they kindled a blazing fire just before the evening meal, and off"ered its light to the king of gods, and all his fellow-deities, beseeching them to keep away from Samoa all sailing gods, lest they should come and cause disease and death. I)r Turner takes high rank among the apostles of the Pacific. Few men living know better, from their own experience, how mar- vellous has been the change wrought in the last forty years, by which barbarous cannibals have been transformed into peaceful Christians. For instance, when he first visited the Isle of Nine, or Savage Island (which lies as the centre of a triangle formed by Tonga, Samoa, and the Ilervey Isles), its people were in much the same H lU A lady's cruise, condition as Captain Cook found tliem, when they rushed on his men "like savage boars," which was their invariable reception of all outsiders — not of white men only (though these were invari- ably repulsed), but also of men whose canoes chanced to drift from Tonga or Samoa, or even of their own countrymen who had left the island and returned. All such were invariably killed, chiefly from a dread lest they should introduce foreign diseases. So great was this fear, that even when they did venture to begin trading, they would not use anything obtained from ships till it had been hung in quarantine in the bush for weeks. For sixty years after Captain Cook's visit, these 4000 veiy exclusive savages adhered to their determination that no stranger should ever live on their isle. At the end of that time they agreed to allow Samoan teachers to settle among them; and so successful has been the work of these men, that the island is now peopled with model Christians. J^o more wars, no fightings, no thefts, but a peaceful and happy community (sufficiently) " clothed and in their right mind ; " living in good houses of the Samoan type, instead of filthy huts ; assembling for school and worship in large suitable buildings, and with abundant leisure to cultivate the soil and prepare the arrowroot and other produce, with which to purchase not only calico, hatchets, knives, &c., but also copies of the Scriptures, hymns, and commentaries, translated into the Savage Island dialect by the Samoan teachers, and printed at Apia. Like the Tongans, these very sensible savages have discovered a means of making criminals really useful to the community. For theft and all other offences, the chief sentences the ofi'ender to make so many fathoms of road of neatly laid blocks of coral, filled in with small stones, and covered Avith a level layer of earth. Thus a good road, shaded by a double row of cocoa-palms, now encircles the isle — a circuit of perhaps fifty miles. Do you think that Captain Cook would now recognise his " wild boars " 1 In like manner, when Dr Turner first visited the Loyalty Isles, of which Xew Caledonia is the prmcipal isle, he found hideous STRANGE GODS. 115 cannibals, without a rag of clothing, but whitewashed from head to foot to improve their beauty. Tliis was tlie height of fashion on Mare. On his return in 1859, he found that perhaps one side of an island had adopted Christianitj-, and that clean, decently clad congregations of men and women assembled on the shore to meet him, eager that he should hear them read the Scriptures from books •printed in their own dialect, — a strange contrast to the other side of the same isle, still plunged in heathen degradation, engaged in ceaseless war, feasting on the bodies of the slain, and occasionally capturing a Christian teacher, whose zeal led him to adventure within their reach. Much the same state of things prevailed on some of the Xew Hebrides, where the isle of Aneiteum was the most hopeful centre of operations, its population of upwards of 3000 persons having all professedly become Christians, and 300 being actually church members. Fifty-six different villages had built schools for their own use, and eleven had chapels. Sixty of the more advanced natives ranked as teachers, and several had gone to work on the hostile isles around. On these, also, two white missionaries had established themselves, though still enduring a hard struggle, and making very little way apparently. More recent incidents have proved how slow and difficult has been their work. On the voyage I speak of, the converts presented Dr Turner with upwards of a hundred of their discarded idols — storm-gods and rain-gods, gods of war and of sickness, gods of the land and of the sea, of the fruits of the earth and of all living things, — a strange motley collection of poor dishonoured images, each of which had been an object of awe through many a dark year, now all huddled together in the hold of the foreign ship. Amongst the simpler idols of Samoa were a number of smooth water-worn stones, more or less egg-shaped — precisely similar to those still reverenced in Indian temples, and which were so long held in honour in the British Isles.-"- One of those was the Samoan 1 For a few examples, to which many m^re might he added, see From the Hebrides to the Himalayas,' vol. i. pp. IG, 74, 130-134. 116 A lady's cruise. laiii-god, Avlio Avas instructed in his duties by a priest, and in times of drought Avas carried to the stream and therein Lathed. J^)Ut should rain fall in excess, the poor god was popped into the lire, to make him personally aware that the land needed a drying. On the same principle the rain-making priests in New Caledonia do or did dig up a dead hody, and, having carried the bones to a cave, there fastened them together to form a complete skeleton, Avhich they hung up, and poured water over it, supposing that the 8])irit of the dead would take the hint and cause the clouds to pour rain on the thirsty land. These priests were so far true to their pretensions that they remained in the cave fasting till rain did fall, and some actually died at their post. When fine weather was required, they kindled a fire beneath the skeleton and let it burn. Similar as were these rain-making customs, there does not ap- pear to have been any link between the Samoans and these Loyalty Islanders, the latter being about as debased a race of cannibals as could well be imagined, — men who, not content with eating the bodies of foes slain in battle, tied up their captives to trees, and prepared the ovens for their reception before their very eyes. The women followed their lords to battle, to be in readiness to seize the falling foe and carry his body to, the rear and prepare it for the feast. They themselves were liable to be eaten if captured ; and the youngest children of the tribe shared the horrid meal. On ordinary occasions the Loyalty Islanders had only one meal a-day. The luxury of kava was unknown to them, but they indulged in copious draughts of sea-water. They wore no apology for clothes. A chief might marry thirty wives, no matter how closely related to him by ties of blood. The Samoans, on the contrary, rigorously prohibited the marriage of any persons nearly related, declaring that such unions called down the wrath of the gods. The gods of the New Caledonians were the ancestral spirits, and their treasured relics were the finger and toe nails of their friends. In burying the dead the head was left above ground; and on the tenth day it was twisted off by the mourning relatives, who pre- served the skull, extracting the teeth as separate treasures. The " EX AVANT !" 117 teetli of old women, scattered over a yam plantation, were supposed to secure a good crop ; and for the same reason the skulls of all the old village crones were stuck on poles near the gardens. I wonder if all these distinctions between the manners and cus- toms of the various groups, convey to your untravelled mind one- thousandth part of the interest they possess to us, who have actually lived among so many different races. I fear it is impos- sible that they should. But you can well understand the thank- fulness of such men as Dr Turner and his colleagues, in watching the, gradual change from year to year, as the Gospel of mercy takes root in such unpromising soil ; and they themselves find loving welcome from the very men who in past years thirsted for their blood, and shed that of so many fellow-workers. Fain would Ave have lingered at peaceful Malua, and listened to stories of the South Seas from the lips of those who have them- selves been actors in so many thrilling scenes, extending from the far west to this centre. But it was necessary to return to Apia this morning, so we regretfully bade farewell to these kind new friends, who loaded us with gifts of strange things, brought from many isles, and sped us on our way. Here we found all quiet. The Seignelay has had a long day of entertaining. First the Sisters went on board, with their sixty children, who were duly impressed with the wonders of the great ship; afterwards all the young men from the Catholic College had their turn. M. de Gironde has just been here, to tell me the vessel sails for Tahiti on Monday. He brings the kindest letters and messages from the captain and all the party, expressive of their true wish that I should proceed with them on the " Tour de la Mission." Indeed the state of affairs here is not such as to invite a prolonged stay. And there might be a detention of months among theso discordant elements, ere I found an opportunity to return to Fiji. 118 A lady's cruise. CHAPTER IX. A SKETCH OF THE SAMOAX MISSION' — THE KEV. JOHN WILLIAMS DETERMINES TO VISIT THE navigator's ISLES — PRELIMINARY WORK IN THE HER- VEY GROUP — DISCOVERY OF RAROTONGA — CONVERSION OF ITS PEOPLE — THEY HELP WILLIAMS TO BUILD A SHIP WHICH SHALL CONVEY HIM TO SAMOA — VISIT TONGA — PROCEED TO SAMOA — OVERTHROW OF IDOLATRY — REVERENCE FOR OLD MATS — WILLIAMs'S GRAVE AT APIA. "When I first landed in Fiji in 1875, nothing amazed me so much as the wonderful Avork which has there been done by tlie "Wesleyan Mission — a work of which the outside world literally knew nothing. Now that my w'anderings have led me further east, I see that different regiments of the great Christian army have each been doing their part in forwarding their Master's cause; and so strangely interesting are many details of their work, which. I have now heard for the first time, that I think I cannot do better than note them down, feeling c[uite convinced that you wiU find them as new and as full of interest as I myself have done. The extraordinary success of the South Sea missions is certainly to be attributed in a great measure to that triumph of common- sense which made the various societies agree, almost at the outset, in a great measure to divide the field of labour, and so endeavour to avoid distracting the minds of the simple islanders, by allowing them to perceive that their teachers could possibly disagree among themselves. In the I^orth Pacific some good working power has doubtless been lost by the establishment in the Sandwich Isles of both an English Episcopal Mission and American Congregationalists. Tlie Dowager Queen Emma is a stanch adherent of the English Church, as was also her husband, who himself translated the prayer-book into the Hawaiian language. But the majority of tlie people there (as throughout Polynesia) find the less ceremonious forms of re- ligious observance better adapted to their needs. So the American Board of Foreign Missions, which commenced its work in 1820, met with such success, that within half a A WONDERFUL CHANGE. 119 century the whole group had been evangelised, and a self-support- ing native Church, with native pastors, established. It is now extending its operations among the islands in the north-western part of the Pacific, between the equator and Japan. These are collectively described as Micronesia, on account of their extremely small size, the majority being simply low atolls, few of which rise more than ten feet above the level of the ocean. The south-western isles of the Pacific, which come under the general name of Melanesia, are chiefly in the hands of the English Church Societies, and of tlie Presbyterian Mission, The countless large groups which occupy the south-east of the ocean, and are generally described as Polynesia, have been almost entirely Christianised by the London and AVesleyan Missions. Shortly after Captain Cook's discoveries had first drawn atten- tion to the existence of these unexplored regions, the London Mis- sion, which includes men of all the evangelical sects, began its work by sending men to the Marquesas, the Society Isles (Tahiti and Eaiatea), and to Tonga. Of the sad fate which befell the first Tongan missionaries, I have already spoken. Three were murdered, and the rest compelled to fly for their lives. Some years later, the Wesleyan Mission ven- tured to reoccupy the field, when they found the people someAvhat penitent. They were able to establish themselves under the pro- tection of some friendly chiefs, and ere long had the satisfaction of knowing that Christianity was striking firm deep roots in the soil which at first seemed so unpromising. Truly marvellous has been the growth of the tree thus Avatered by the blood of tliose brave pioneers. Eighty years have elapsed since their martyrdom, at which time there was not one isle in the whole Pacific which was not steeped in debasing heathenism and cruel wars. 'Now, throughout Polynesia, idolatry is a thing of tlie past ; none of the present generation have even seen the wood and stone gods of their fathers : infanticide and murder are probably less common than in Europe, and a reverent obedience to all Christian precepts a good deal more apparent than in civilised countries. On upwards of 300 isles (where in the early half of this century no boat 120 A lady's cruise. could liave touched ^\•ithout imminent danger), Christianity of a really practical sort now reigns. Ui^wards of a quarter of a million ])ersons show their faith in its requirements hy utterly changed lives, and at least 60,000 of these are regular communicants. The casual traveller, who, a few years ago, would almost inevitably have been killed had he ventured to land, is now chiefly in danger of asserting that the natives have been trained to be religious over- much, — their " innocent nature " cramped ; and so the chances arc, that without intending to do mischief, he throws his influence of the moment into the opposite scale, and is perhaps the source of more evil than he dreams of. Having not only succeeded in transforming the savage Tongans into earnest Christians, but also into most zealous and capable teachers, the Wesleyan missionaries next made their way to Fiji, where their success was still more wonderful, and a race of most cruel cannibals has become one of the gentlest on earth. ^ About the same time the Samoan Isles, which were then an al- most unknown group, were sought out by the Rev. John Williams of the London Mission, one of the boldest and most successful of the early pioneers. He began his work at Raiatea, in the year 1817, with such success, that when, in 1821, an opportunity pre- sented itself of visiting the Hervey Isles (of which nothing was known, except that such a group existed), several converts from Raiatea volunteered to go there as pioneers. They were accord- ingly landed on the isle of Aitutaki,^ the very name of which might have suggested encouragement. There they were favourably received by Tamatoa, the chief, and his people. lievertheless, as it was well known that these were all cannibals, and constantly at war one with another, it was not without deep anxiety that Mr Williams left the teachers to begin the mission. When, however, in the following year, he returned to the group, in company with Mr Bourne, they were received with the glad tidings that the people of Aitutaki had all, without exception, abjured idolatry, biu'nt their mnray, and begun to Avorship the Saviour; that they ^ Vide 'At Home in Fiji,' by C. F. Gordon Gumming. - Aitutaki, "led by God." SEARCH FOR RAROTONGA. 121 had built a large church, and rigidly hallowed the Sabbath. On the following day nearly 2000 of these now tamed savages as- sembled on the shore, and all knelt together in solemn prayer to the Christian's God ; after which they brought thirty of their discarded idols, and carried them on board the mission-ship, that the men of other isles, beholding them, might know that they were no gods, but only worthless images, and so might be led to discard their own. This was a satisfactory beginning for one year's work ; and a great promise for the future lay in the fact that among the con- verts were six natives from the then unknown isle of Earotonga, who earnestly prayed that teachers might be sent to their brethren, and that they themselves might be allowed to accompany them. The men of Aitutaki declared the Rarotongans to be most ferocious cannibals, and horribly treacherous, and were sorely alarmed for the safety of any teachers who should venture among them. Nevertheless it was agreed that the opportunity was one not to be lost. Accordingly the mission-ship sailed in search of Earo- tonga. For eight days they sought in vain, but failed to dis- cover it. At last they found themselves off an isle which proved to ])e Mangaia. There three brave Tahitian teachers, two of whom were accompanied by their wives, volunteered to land and endeavour to establish a footing among the people. These, however, proved such unmitigated savages that the attempt was frustrated. Though the chiefs had invited the teachers to land, their doing so was the signal for brutal ill-treatment of both men and w^omeu. All their little property was at once stolen, and they only escaped with their lives by swimming back to the ship through the surf. A few months later another attempt was made to commence a mission in the Hervey Isles. Once more the mission-ship returned to Mangaia, and two unmarried teachers, Davida and Tiere, leaped into the sea and swam to the shore, taking nothing with them but the cloth they wore, and a portion of the Xew Testament in Tahitian, which was carefully wrapped up and tied on their heads. Crowds had assembled on the shore, and one warrior rushed at \ 123 A lady's ckuise. them with a long spear, but the luBge \vas arrested by the king himself, who received them kindly, and at once led them to his own seaside temple, in order that the people might consider their persons sacred. This they were inclined to do ; for soon after their cruel treatment of the first teachers, a terrible epidemic had broken out in the isle, which had carried off young and old, chiefs and peasants. Supposing this to be a punishment sent by the God of those strangers, they collected all the property they had stolen from them, the calico dresses torn off the women, and the strips into which they had torn the Bibles to make ornaments for their hair at the midnight dances in honour of the god Tane. All these things they threw into a chasm in the mountains into which they were in the habit of casting their dead, and made solemn vows to the unknown God that if His servants returned to their isle they should be well cared for. So now they prepared a feast for the two bold swimmers, and allowed them to settle among them in peace. Meanwhile INIr "Williams had continued the search for Earo- tonga, and had touched at the isles of Atiu, ]\[auke, and Mitiaro. The story of that voyage is more thrilling than any romance. It was as if a flash of electric light had suddenly illumined the thick darkness. What that darkness was you may infer from the fact that only four years previously all these islands had been decimated by war and cannibalism. The fierce people of Mitiaro had slain and eaten several canoe-loads of the men of Atiu, whose kinsfolk, determined to avenge them, came over in force, and by treachery gained access to the stronghold of the men of JMitiaro. A fearful massacre ensued, and to this day the oven is shown into which men and women and helpless infants were throAvn alive to be cooked ; the only mercy shown was when the brains of the children were dashed on the stones, and so tliey were killed ere being cast into the oven. "When the conquerors had eaten their fill, tliey packed basketfuls of the savoury meat to regale their wives and families at Atiu ; but ere tliey left the blood-stained isle they practised one more barbarity common to heathen warfare. In dragging the great double canoes over the sharp coral, it is usual to lay down soft A ZEALOUS CONVERT. 123 banana stumps to act as rollers, and so protect the canoes from injury. The rollers now used were living naked men and Avonien, tied together hand and foot, and over their writhing bodies were the heavy canoes drawn in triumph. The same terrible fate had overtaken the neighbouring isle of Mauke, when the arrival of the mission-ship brought to these isles the blessed Gospel of peace. The first man to step on board at Atiu was the terrible chief, Eomatane, who had led the expeditions against Mitiaro and Mauke : he was a man of strikingly command- ing aspect, with beautiful long black hair. He was eagerly wel- comed by the chief of Aitutaki, who had already destroyed his idols and accepted the new faith ; and so earnestly did this zealous convert plead all through the long night with his brother chief, that, ere the morrow dawned, the truth of his words seemed borne in upon the mind of Eomatane, and he vowed that never again would he worship any God save Jehovah. He returned ashore to announce this decision to his people, and his intention of imme- diately destroying his idols and their temples. Then returning on board, he agreed to direct the course of the vessel to the then unknown isles of Mitiaro and Mauke, which hitherto he had visited only with fire and sword. ISTow it was his voice that proclaimed the truths he had just learned, and that exhorted the people to destroy all their idols and build a house for the worship of the true God. At each isle he himself escorted the Tahitian teachers and their wives to the house of the principal chief, and charged him to care for them and hearken to their instructions. Thus in one short day was this mighty revolution wrought in three isles, which had never before even seen a foreign ship. Eo- matane and his brother Mana proved themselves true to their first convictions ; and among their stanch fellow-workers was one who, to this day, tells how, at the massacre of his kinsfolk on ilauke, when he was carried away captive, he was laid on the baskets con- taining the baked flesh of his uncles and fellow-countrymen, and narrowly escaped being himself consigned to the oven. The mission work progressed without a drawback. The people, almost without demur, determined to destroy the idols they had 124 A lady's cruise. so long revered. ^lany were rescued as museum curiosities, and the mission - ship sailed onward with those grotesque monsters hanging from her yard-arms, and otherwise displayed as trophies, leaving in their stead earnest converts, from Eaiatca and Tahiti, to instruct these AvilHng hearers. When they had almost given up in despair their search for Earotonga, one of the new converts told them that if they would sail to a given point on the isle of Atiu, he could thence take bearings which would enable him to find it. So for this starting- point they made ; and, true to his word, the islesman directed them how to steer, and after several days they reached the beautiful isle they sought. Here they were received in the most friendly man- ner; and the young king, ]\Iakea (an exceedingly handsome man, six feet high, and beautifully tattooed), came on board himself, and agreed to take the native teachers ashore, with their wives and the six Christian natives who had been brought back to their own isle. This promising beginning was, however, not without a check ; for in the early dawn the teachers returned to the ship, bringing back their wives with garments all tattered and torn, telling of the grievous treatment they had endured. The chiefs were exceedingly anxious that the teachers should remain on the isle to teach them the Word of God, but wished to annex their Avives. It was therefore decided that, for the present, only one fine old teacher should be left, with the six Rarotongans who had first suggested the commencement of the mission, on their unknown isle. So well did their work progress, that within a year the whole population had renounced idolatry. Makea, the king, was among the earliest converts; and when, in 1827, Mr Williams and Mr Pitman arrived with their wives and families to settle in liarotonga, they were received by an enthusiastic crowd of about 3000 persons, each of whom insisted on shaking hands so heartily, that their arms ached severely for several hours after. All these were professedly Christians ; and the new-comers learnt that there was not a house on the isle in which the family did not assemble morning and evening for family worship. A few days after their IDOL-WORSIIIP ABANDONED. 125 arrival, they perceived a great body of people approaching bearing heavy burdens. These proved to be fourteen immense idols, tha smallest of Avhich was about fifteen feet high. Some of these ■were reserved to decorate the rafters of the new chapel, built by the people themselves, to contain 3000 persons ; the rest were destroyed. While this marvellous change was being wrought on the other isles, the brave young teachers who had swum ashore on Mangaia were steadily making their way. Within two years one died, leaving Davida to labour alone. He had, however, by this time made some progress ; and on one glad day the king and chiefs determined to abandon the idol shrine, where, every evening, offerings of food were presented to the thii'teen known gods, and to the great host of the unknown. !So, to tlie great joy of Davida, the thirteen idols were carried to his house by tlieir late worshippers, and there stripped of the sacred white cloth in which priests and gods were always clothed. They are noAv preserved in the museum of the London mission, and very much resemble the wooden idols of the ancient Britons to be seen in our antiqiiariaa museums.^ ^ Notably one dug out of the peat-moss at Ballacluilisli, now in the Antiquarian Museum in Edinburgh ; and those in the Museum at Hull ; also those in the Berlin Museum. All these have the eyes formed of quartz pebbles, instead of the bits of jjearly shell or of obsidian used in the manufacture of idols in the Pacific. The stone gods also had their counterparts in our own isles. When Dr Turner visited the Union or Tokelau Isles in 1850, be found that the great god, Tui Tokelau, was supposed to be ein}x)died in a rude stone, which was carefully ■wrapped up in fine mats, and never seen by any Innnan eyes save those of the king, who is also the high priest. Even he might only look upon the sacred stone once a-year, when the old mats were removed and new ones supplied. Of course constant exposure in all weather, day and night, soon decayed the mats ; but the worshippers continually offered new ones, esjjecially in cases of sickness, and these were wrapped round the idol, so that, ere the day came round for its disrobing, it attained a prodigious size. The old mats were considered so sacred that none might touch them ; so they were laiil in a place apart, and there left to rot. The month of May was especially devoted to the worshiii of this god, and the people assembled from all the Tokelau isles to hold a great feast in its honour, and to ])ray for prosperity and health, and especially /or an abundant suj)ply offish and cocoa-nuts. Now turn from the Pacific to the North Atlantic, and read a statement by tlie Earl of Ro'len, in his ' Progress of the Kefornuition in Ireland.' He says ; — 12G A LADYS CRUISE. Thus, in an incredibly short space of time, was tlie whole system of idolatry, with its bloody human sacrifices, overthrown in the Hervey Isles ; and how marvellous was the change wrought in every respect, has been described by Lord Byron, Commander of H.M.S. Blonde, when he accidentally found himself in the group, — and, recognising it as one of those discovered by Captain Cook, approached land with extreme caution, but was welcomed by noble- looking men, dressed in cotton shirts and very fine mats, who pro- duced written documents from the London Mission Society, quali- fying them to act as teachers, and then took him ashore to a neat village with a good school and a crowded church. From that time forward, the Hervey Islanders have not only been true to their own profession, but have proved zealous mis- sionaries in carrying the Gospel to other isles. Their theological college has already sent forth about 150 trained men as teachers. About 50 of these are at the present moment scattered among various remote isles of the Pacific, some of which are still cannibal. Six of the most zealous and determined men have gone, accom- panied by their brave missionary wives, to face the unknown perils that await them in N'ew Guinea — where, doubtless, their work will bear good fruit, and prove the first step in opening up that vast island to the commerce of the civilised world. ^ The very first missionary effort of the Hervey Islanders was "In the south island — i.e., Inniskea, off the coasst of Mayo — in the house of a man named Monigan, a stone idol, called in the Irish Neevougi, has been, from time immemorial, religiously preserved and worshipped. This god resembles in appearance a tliick roll of home-spun flannel, which arises from the custom of dedicating a dress of that material to it whenever its aid is sought ; this is sewu on by an old woman, its priestess, whose peculiar care it is. Of the early history of this idol no authentic information can be procured, but its power is believed to be inmiense. They pray to it in time of sickness ; it is invoked lohen a storm is desired to dash some hapless ship upon their coast ; and again, the exercise of its power is solicited in calming the angry waves to admit of fishing or visiting tlie mainland." It scarcely seems possible, does it, to realise that our own ancestors were as gross idolaters as any South Sea Islanders ? Yet in the majority of these isles the present generation have never seen an idol of any sort ; and should they ever visit our museums, they would gaze on the gods of their own fathers as wonderingly as we do on those of the early Britons. 1 Alas ! the fate of the majority has .ilready been sealed. In the sjiring of FIRST EFFOllTS FOR SAMOA. 127 directed by Mr "Williams towards Samoa. Even before he left Eaiatea, he had resolved to visit the Navigator group, to endeav- our, there also, to plant some seed of good, which might per- chance take root. Now that the work had so prospered in the Hervey Isles, he ventured to broach the subject to his wife, who, naturally enough, at first objected to being left alone with her children for many months among a race of utter savages, while her husband went off on a very long and dangerous voyage of about 200 miles, to face perhaps still greater dangers when he reached his destination. After a while, however, this brave woman made up her mind that it was right he should go ; and much to his astonishment, several months after the subject had been dismissed, she volunteered her consent. Then came the primary difficulty of transit. They possessed no vessel which could possibly make such a journey — only native canoes. Nothing daunted, Mr Williams determined to try his hand at shipbuilding, though it was a trade of which he knew little, and he had scarcely any tools. His first great difficulty lay in making a pair of smith's bellows. Though he possessed only four goats, three were sacrificed for the sake of their skins. The fourth, which was giving a little milk, was spared. Scarcely were the bellows finished, when the rats, sole indigenous animals, as- sembled in scores, and in one night devoured every particle of 1881, the following brief paragraph aunounced that the lives of these brava pioneers had already been sacrificed : — "Massacre of BIissionaries. — Despatches received in Liverpool announce the massacre in New Guinea of a numljer of missionaries belonging to the London Missionary Society. The news was conveyed to Melbourne in a telegram from the Rev. Mr Beswick, who himself naiTowly escaped with his life. On the 7th of March the missionaries were attacked by the natives at Kato, in the district of Port Moresby, Hulu, and four of them, with two of their wives, four children, and two servants, were killed. The natives also attempted to kill four native boys who ■were with the missionary party, but they saved themselves by swimming. Not the slightest provocation was given ; but it is stated in the despatch that the perpe- trators of otlier previous massacres on the coast have not been punished, and this is considered to be the main cause of the outbreak. The total number of persons killed was twelve, but the list would have been much greater had not the remainder of the party made their immediate escape. For fear the natives would make a further attack upon the missionaries in the outlying districts, they were all i-e- moved from their stations to Port Moresby." 123 A lady's cruise. leather. Having none in reserve, invention was sorely taxed, till at last Mr Williams devised a machine which should throw out air as a pump throws water. This was but one of the countless difficulties to be overcome. To obtain planks, trees were split with wedges, and then cut up Avith small hatchets. For lack of nails the planks were riveted together with wooden pins. Sails were made of quilted mats and riipes of hybiscus-bark. Cocoa-nut husk supplied the place of oakum. A clumsy stone anchor was contrived, and also a wooden one. In short, determination triumphed over every difficulty ; and in fifteen weeks, without any help save what the Rarotongans could give by obeying his directions, Mr Williams had the satis- faction of launching a seaworthy vessel of about 80 tons burden, 60 feet in length, and 18 in breadth. To test her sailing powers, she was to make a preliminary trip to Aitutaki, distant about 170 miles. Before they had gone six miles, the natives let slip the foresail, which, straining in the wind, broke the foremast, and with some difficulty they returned to land. Having repaired the damage, they started again, reached Aitutaki, and returned thence to Rarotonga with a cargo of pigs, cats, and cocoa-nuts. The two first, but especially the pigs, Avere invaluable in ridding the island of rats ; but a cargo of cocoa-nuts suggests coals to Newcastle, till Ave learn that in native warfare the cocoa-palms and bread-fruit trees Avere invariably destroyed, so that the fruitful isles Avere utterly ravaged. The Messenger of Peace beitig noAv proven seaAvorthy, sailed for Tahiti, whence she Avas despatched to the Marquesas, and on several other mission expeditions, ere starting on that for which slie had been designed. It Avas not till the year 1830, that Mr Williams, taking Mr Barff as his colleague, and seven Tahitian teachers Avith their Avives and children, actually sailed in search of the almost uuknoAvn Navigator's Isles. They touched at the Hervey Isles on their Avay, and these likcAvise contributed scA'eral teachers, eager to carry to Samoa the Word of Peace, Avhich liad so recently gladdened themselves. Passing on thence to Tonga they received Avarm Avelcome from TEMPLE DESECRATION. 12!) King George, wlio had long been a zealous Christian, and whose energetic nature had thrown itself heart and soul into the work of converting his people. Never did finer material exist. The Ton- gans have ever been noted for their strong, self-reliant, earnest character; and the same determination which in old days made them dreaded as the most daring pirates of the South Seas, was now called into play in quite a new manner, and the pushing ambitious men who were ever coming to the front in deeds of aggression, were henceforth the champions of the Christian faitli and its most zealous pioneers. At Tonga Mr Williams was the guest of ]\Iessrs Xathaniel Turner and Cross. The name of the latter is familiar to us, as having shared, with the Rev. David Cargill, the danger and hon- our of founding the Wesleyan ^Mission in Fiji. From them they heard with joy that Taufaahau, the chief of the Happai group, — a man of indomitable courage and determination, — had recently visited King George at Tongatabu, in order to judge for himself of the new religion. He then returned to his own dominions accompanied by Tongan native teachers, and proceeded to destroy all the idols and altars, exhorting the chiefs to follow his example. Many were naturally indignant at this proceeding, and determined to celebrate a great festival in honour of the gods. Turtle and other sacred fish had to be caught for the offerings ; so the high- handed chief, Taufaahau, profited by the delay to desecrate the temple by driving a herd of pigs into the sacred enclosure, and converting the temple itself into a sleeping-room for his women- servants — the presence of a woman being considered pollution to a viarae. So utterly obnoxious to the gods was the female sex, that it was certain deatii for any woman to set foot in a temple — and Avhen victims were about to be seized for sacrifice, the greatest care was taken to prevent the approach of any female relation, lest she should touch the corpse, and so render it unfit to be offered at the marae. When the worsliippers arrived with their offerings of turtle, they found the poor gods all disrobed, hanging by the neck from the rafters ; and knowing the stern resolution of their chief, I 130 A lady's cruise. tliey retired, discomfited. Having given this proof of his sin- cerity, Taufaahau next sent his best canoe to Tonga, to bring Mr Thomas, the missionary whose teaching had so impressed him ; and who, in answer to this summons, started with his wife to make the journey of 200 miles in this open canoe, in order to follow up the work thus begun on Happai. At Vavau, the third group, the work seemed to have little pros- pect of success, so virulent was the opposition of Finau the high chief, who threatened death to any of his people who listened to the teachers. Yet within two years he was himself a zealous con- vert, and upwards of 2000 of his followers were in the habit of assembling for the Sunday services. The teachers of the Tonga lotu — i.e., the Wesley ans — continued steadily working, and their influence spread as a leaven of good from isle to isle. At Tonga the Samoan party received an un- looked-for reinforcement in the person of Fauea, a Samoan chief, who had for some time been living in Tonga, and had there become a Christian. He requested Mr Williams to give him a jDassage in his ship, and proved an invaluable helper, directing him to steer for Savaii, the principal isle, of which he himself proved to be a high chief, and related to Malietoa, the greatest chief of all. Fauea was a man of sound judgment and of most persuasive eloquence. But he was greatly troubled lest they should meet with violent opposition from Tamafainga, whom the people obeyed with trembling, believing that in him dwelt the spirit of the gods. It was therefore with unmixed relief that he heard, on his arrival, that this dreaded opponent had been killed a few days previously, and that there had not yet been time for the chiefs of all the isles to meet and elect his successor in the office of spiritual ruler. So the IMessenger of Peace was found to have arrived in the very nick of time, and all the people received Fauea and his 2)'ipalcmgi ^ friends with open arms. Malietoa indeed, declared that he was engaged in a war of vengeance, in which he could not stay his hand, but that it should be the last ; and that when peace was restored he Avould himself lotu — that is, become a 1 Foreign. ^VILLIAMS ARRIVES AT SAMOA. ISl Christian — and encourage all his people to do likewise. He and his brother Tamalelangi, or " Son of the Sky," each jDromised to protect the native teachers and their wives, and gave them a hearty welcome as they laiided ; nevertheless, the old order passed away in flames and bloodshed, all to avenge the murder of the rapacious tyrant, who had actually been worshipped as a god, till the people could no longer endure his outrages and oppressions, and so waylaid and slew him. Even at the moment when the teachers were landing on the island of Savaii, the mountains of Upolu, on the other side of the straits, were enveloped in flames and smoke, which told that a battle had been fought that very morning, and that not only were the plantations being destroyed, but that the women, children, and infirm people were all being murdered, and their bodies burnt in their villages. This sanguinary war continued for several months, and the country was so desolated that for miles together not a house was left standing; and even the villages which escaped were full of the sound of wailing and mourning for the dead, in whose honour the living lacerated their own flesh with broken shells and sharks' teeth. When, finally, one party triumphed, they made huge bonfires, into which they threAV many of the van- quished. Though the Samoans were never guilty of cannibalism, still there was enough of barbarous cruelty in their warfare to make a residence among them a very anxious experiment. Hav- ing done what they could to smooth the way for the teachers, Mr Williams and his colleague were obliged to leave them, in devout trust that their work might prosper. Twenty months elapsed ere they were again able to return to Samoa, and marvellous, far beyond their highest hopes, was the change they found. On their first visit they had only touched at Savaii and Upolu, tlie most Avesterly of the Navigator group. Now the first land they sighted was Manua, the most easterly, about 250 miles distant from that on which the teachers were established. To their astonishment a number of canoes came out to meet them, and as they neared the vessel several natives stood up and declared themselves to be Christians, and that they were 132 A lady's cuuise. ■waiting for a fdlii lotu — a religion-ship — to Lring tliem a teacher who could tell tlieni about Jesus Christ. Great was their dis- appointment Avhen they heard that IMr AVillianis had only been able to secure one teacher, whom he had promised to leave on another isle. These people had received such knowledge as they possessed from a canoe which had drifted all the way from liairavae, an island upwards of 300 miles to the south of Tahiti, and fully 2000 miles from that where it at length arrived, after a three months' voyage, in the course of which twenty of the party died of the hardships they underwent. But the survivors had carefully preserved their copy of the Tahitian translation of the Scriptures ; and on reaching the unknown isle they built a reed-hut for their chapel, and there met daily for worship. Thus, among the strange and precious treasures which from time to time are cast up by the ocean on far-away isles, did the people of Manua receive the Word of Life. Among those Avho had heard it gladly was a fine young fellow, a native of Leone, in the Isle Tutuila, to which he begged to be conveyed in the foreign ship, that he might teach his brethren what he had learnt. Thither they sailed, touching at the Isles Orosenga and Ofu, where as yet no rumour of the new teaching had been heard. As they approached Tutuila, they were surrounded by a vast number of canoes filled with excessively wild-looking men, clam- ouring for powder and muskets, as they were on the eve of a great war with a neighbouring chief. No sign there of any leaven of good — in fact, the presence among them of a resident Englishman of the " beach-combing " fraternity, was anything but a hopeful indication. The amount of mischief done by even the average specimens of this class has been incalculable ; but many have been miscreants of the deepest dye, Avhose crimes have aroused the horror of even the vilest heathen. Many of them were despera- does — convicts escaped from New South Wales in stolen vessels, which they scuttled on reaching any desirable isle, where they generally contrived to make themselves useful in war, and so "CAST THY BREAD UPOX THE WATERS. 133 secure the protection of some cliief. One of tliese men, who made his way to Samoa, Avas said to have shot 200 persons with his musket, smearing himself with charcoal and oil to enable him to creep within range undetected. His delight at the end of such a day's sport Avas to seat himself on a sort of litter, smeared with blood, surrounded by the heads of his victims, and so be carried home by his followers, yelling savage songs of triumph. Such men as these were not exactly calculated to improve the morals of the Pacific ! Passing on to beautiful Leone, which bore an evil character for savage cruelty and treachery, and the massacre of various boats' crews, the mission party beheld the people drawn up on the beach, in Avhat appeared a formidable array. They, however, lowered the boat and neared the shore, when the chief, bidding his people sit down, waded up to his neck till he reached the strangers, and explained that he and his followers were no longer savage, but " sons of the word ; " and went on to tell how, twenty moons previously, some of his people liad been at Savaii when the white chief Williams had arrived there with some tama-fai-lotu, " Avork- ers of religion," and having learnt a little, they had returned home Avith the neAVS, and already fifty of the people had become Christians. Pointing to a group Avho sat someAvhat apart, under the shade of the bread-fruit trees, and Avho each Avore a strip of Avhite native cloth tied round one arm, he said that those were the Christians, who had adopted that badge to distinguish them from the heathen ; that they had built a place for prayer, in a thicket of bananas ; and that one of their number from time to time crossed over to Savaii in his little canoe, to " get some more re- ligion " from the teachers ^ to bring back to his OAvn people. On learning that the man he AA'as addressing was the identical 1 The thought of this poor savage, week by week imperilling his life by crossing that stormy sea in his frail canoe, has often come vividly to my mind as an illus- tration of the words in Dent. xxx. 11-14: "This commandment which I command thee this day, it is not hidden from thee, neither is it far off. It is not .... be- yond the sea, that thou shouldest say. Who shall go over the sea for us, and bring it unto us, tlit\t we may hear it, and do it? But the word is very nigh unto thee, in thy mouth, and in thy heart, that thou mayest do it." 134 A LADY S CRUISE. " white chief " who had visited Savaii, he made a sign to his people, who ruslied into the sea, and carried tlie boat and all who were in it high and dry on the beacli in tlioir enthusiastic Avel- come ; but when they learnt that the religion-ship had brought no teacher for them, their disappointment was unbounded ; and so, we may well believe, Avas that of the zealous apostle who had dis- coA'ered these isles " white to the harvest," but had failed to find reapers. So eager was the desire to know about the better way, that there were many places in the isles where the people, having only heard a dim rumour of what others had learnt, had actually built places for the worship of the unknown God, and, having prepared their food on the Saturday, assembled there at six o'clock each Sabbath morning, and again twice in the day, not for service, because none knew what to saj'^, but to sit together in reverent silence, waiting for some revelation of His will. It seemed a strangely literal illustration of the words of the Hebrew prophet, " The isles shall wait for His law." Passing on to the beautiful little isle of Manono, and the great isles of Savaii and TJpolu, the missionaries were received with extravagant joy by teachers and people ; and by the high chiefs with more nose-rubbing than was agreeable ! They heard with delight that all the principal chiefs and many of the people had already declared themselves Christians, and had proved themselves in earnest by truly consistent conduct; and that the majority of the people had resolved to follow their good example. Upwards of a thousand sat breathlessly to hear the white man's words, spoken in Tahitian, and interpreted by one of the teachers. Then Makea, the king of Earotonga, a man of magnificent stature, who had accompanied Mr Williams, addressed the people, and explained how Avonderful had been the change wrought in his own isles since they embraced the lotu ; ^ how, in old days, they had been for ever fighting and murdering one another, till at length they had hearkened to the voice of the teachers, and, in fear and trem- bling, had brought their idols to be burnt, and had Avatched from 1 Christianity. TOTEM OR ETU WORSUIP. 135 afar while those daring men had cooked their bananas on the embers. Here, in Samoa, there were very few idols, and no blood-stained rnaraes, altars, or temples ; human sacrifice, or indeed any sort of sacrifice, was not required ; hence the expression, " Godless as a 8amoan," by which the men of other groups described any one who neglected the service of the temples. The Samoans, however, were diligent in the worship of their own ancestors, and, moreover, supposed that the spirit of their gods animated divers birds, fishes, or reptiles. As certain Indian tribes have adopted different ani- mals as their totem-god, so in Samoa and the Hervey Isles, each chief had his etit — i.e., some living creature, which to him and to his people was sacred ; and foreigners, ignorant of this matter, sometimes incurred serious danger from accidentally killing some revered reptile, or even insect. The man who found a dead body of his representative deity, say an owl, a heron, or a bat, would stop and wail piteously, beating his own forehead with stones till it bled ; then wrapping up the poor dead creature with all reverence, he would solemnly bury it, with as much care as if it had been a near relation. This was supposed to be pleasing to the gods. When, therefore, any Samoan resolved to declare himself a Christian, he commenced by killing and eating the familiar spirit of his tribe, whether grasshopper, centipede, octopus, vampire-bat, snake, eel, lizard, parrot, or other creature.-'- There was one chief who reverenced as his eiu the fractured, but carefully mended, skull of a white man, whose firearms had won his admiration, though the man's crimes had led to his being clubbed. An amusing story is told of the terror with which these simple folk first beheld a talking cockatoo in the cabin of a vessel. "With a cry of dismay they rushed on deck and leapt overboard, declaring that the captain had his etu in the cabin, and that they had heard it talking to him. The story of the conversion of these much tattooed but little clothed warriors abounds in picturesque detail. Thus, when the great chief Malietoa promised Mi* Williams that he would become 1 See note on Elu worship at the end of tlii.s letter. 133 A LADYS CRUISE. a Christian so soon as lie had fully avenged the death of Tamafa- inga, "in whom Avas the spirit of the evil gods," before himself going forth to battle, he sent one of his sons to help the teachers to build their chapel. On his return, when the chapel was to be opened, he called his sons together and announced his intention of fulfilling his promise to the white chief. With one accord they replied that what Avas good for their father was good for them, and that they too would lotu. This, however, he forbade, declaring that if they obstinately insisted on so doing, he would continue in the faith of his ancestors. " Do you not know," he said, " that the gods will be enraged with me and seek to destroy me 1 and per- haps Jehovah may not be strong enough to protect me against them ! I purpose, therefore, to try the experiment. If He can protect me, you may safely follow my example 3 but if not, then I only shall perish." The young men were reluctant to obey, and asked how long they must allow for this test, Malietoa suggested a month or six weeks ; and intense was the interest with which all his people waited and watched, lest sickness or other evil should befall him. But when, at the end of three weeks, all went on prosperously, it was felt that the supremacy of the Christian's God was established, and the sons of Malietoa Avould wait no longer. So, calling to- gether a great company of friends and kinsmen, they proceeded solemnly to cook a large quantity of anae, a silvery fish, which was the etu of their tribe. These being laid on freshly gathered leaves, were placed before each person, and the teachers solemnly offered a prayer, ere, with fear and trembling, these young converts nerved themselves to swallow a few morsels of the sacred fish, hitherto held in such reverence. So intense, however, was the hold of the old superstition, that the young men, unable to con- quer their fear lest the etu should gnaw their vitals and destroy them, immediately retired to swallow a large dose of cocoa-nut oil and salt water, which, acting as a powerful emetic, greatly tended to counteract any malignant influence of the offended gods. Soon after this, a great meeting of chiefs was convened to consult on the fate of Papo, the venerable god of war. This VENERABLE MATS. 137 renowned relic was nothing but a strip of rotten old matting, about three yards long and four inches wide, which was always attached to the war-canoe of the highest chief when he went forth to battle. Xow an impious voice suggested that this venerated rag should be thrown in the fire, but a burst of disapprobation silenced this cruel suggestion. However, all agreed that Papo must be exterminated ; so as drowning was a less horrible death than burning, they re- solved to launch a new canoe, in which a number of high chiefs should row out to sea, and, having fastened Papo to a heavy stone, should commit him to the deep. They had actually started .on this errand, with great ceremony, when the teachers hurried after them in another canoe, to beg that the old war-god might be pre- sented to Mr Williams. The chiefs were immensely relieved by tlie suggestion ; and the venerable strip of matting is now to be seen in the museum of the London Mission. I cannot solve the mystery of this Samoan reverence for certain ancient mats ; but I well remember our astonishment, when the Samoan chiefs came to Fiji to consult Sir Arthur Gordon on the question of British protection, to see with what infinite solemnity these fine stately men presented him witli a very dirty and exceed- ingly unfragrant and tattered old mat, which, I believe, was to be offered to her Majesty Queenie Vikatoria, but has, I think, found an asylum in the British Museum. What makes this so very strange is, that the mats worn by the Samoan chiefs and ladies are beautifully fine and glossy, of most delicate straw-colour, and edged with handsome grass-fringe. Whatever may have been the origin of this form of antiquarian lunacy, its existence is an unmistakable reality. The Samoan chief treasures the dirty and ragged old mat of some revered ancestor as a British regiment does the tattered colours which find their honoured rest in some grey sanctuary. The old mat, which from generation to generation has been jealously guarded by his clan, is his patent of nobility, and the title-deed which, proves his right to broad acres. Some of these strips of dirty old matting, which no rag-man would pick off a dust-heap, are known throughout the group by special names. There is one, which is known to be upwards of 200 years 138 A LADYS CRUISE. old, during which period its successive guardians have all been duly enrolled. It is called Moe-e-fui-fui — i.e., the mat which slept beneath the vines — in allusion to its having lain hidden for several years among the lilac ipomeas which twine in matted tangles all along the sea-beach. K"o money would induce a Samoan to sell one of these unsavoury treasures: it is said that £100 might be offered in vain, though I certainly cannot imagine any sane person offering 100 pence. However, it is simply a form of relic-worship, — and probably no whit more foolish than the adoration of dirty clothes and kindred oljjects, supposed to have been hallowed by the touch of Christian or Buddhist saints. Indeed I am far more inclined to sympathise with the heathen Tahitian, who wore as an amulet the toe-nail of the father whom he had loved, than I can do with the multitudi- nous Christians who sanctify their altars by the presence of some splinter of saintly bone. Amongst the many touching incidents of these early days, was that of one large village in which, contrary to the general course, all the women became Christians before any of the men did so. Mr AVilliams had reached a town called Amoa, the people of which had all accepted the lotu, when a party of seventy women approached in single file, each bearing a gift. At their head walked a tall handsome woman, with a mat, dyed red, folded about her loins, and the upper part of her body freely anointed with sweet-oil, tinged with turmeric. On her neck and arms she wore a necklace and bracelets of large blue beads ; but her hair, alas ! was all cut off, except one little lock falling over the left cheek. Her com- panions were equally picturesque, — the unmarried women being distinguished by their Avearing a white mat, and no oil and turmeric, and by their retaining a profusion of graceful curls on one side of their head, while the other was shaven and shorn. The poorest girls wore only fringes of large leaves and wreaths of Howers. It appeared that the leader was a chiefess of high rank, who, some time previously, had come to Amoa, and there remained for a month, diligently attending to the instructions of the teachers. ILL-FATED EROMANGA. 139 Then, returning to her own district, she had collected all the women, and told them all she had learnt, and so interested theiix in the subject, that a large number had agreed to renounce heathen worship. They built a leaf - hut for their church ; and here tlie teacher from Amoa occasionally came to conduct service. At other times the chiefess herself did so, making frequent pilgrimages through the week to learn new lessons from the teacher, and re- turning to impart this wisdom to her companions. Thus, wuthin the short space of twenty moons, was Mr Williams allowed to see the beginning of an abiindant harvest, where he had but scattered the seed ; and a true grief saddened his heart when compelled to refuse the entreaties of chiefs and people that he would fetch his family and come to live and die among them, to teach them how to love Jesus Christ. But when he reminded them that there were eight isles in the group, and that he must return to England to fetch other teachers, they bade him God- speed, — only praying that he would hasten back, because assuredly many of them would be dead ere his return. This true apostle went on his way, carrying the light to many a region of darkness, till, in the year 1839, he reached the ill-fated shores of Eromanga, in the Xew Hebrides, which was the scene of his martyrdom. With his loved friend, James Harris, he had suc- ceeded in obtaining a friendly reception on the neighbouring isle of Tanna, and there left three Samoan teachers to begin Avork among its hideous savages. Twenty miles further lies Eromanga, whose people are the most hopeless cannibals of the Pacific. As the brave men landed on the inhospitable isle, a host of armed savages rushed out from the bushes in which they were concealed. In an instant both were clubbed, and the bodies of the grand apostle of the South Seas and his young disciple became food for the miserable cannibals whom they longed to reclaim. It was the usual tale of revenge. These Eromangans had, shortly before, been cruelly ill-treated by a party of sandal-wood traders, who wantonly killed several natives on their attempting to defend their Avomen, and to save their plantations from indiscriminate plunder. Xaturally enough, these poor savages, seeing another foreign boat 140 A lady's cruise. land at the same spot as tlieir enemies had done, failed to dis- criminate friend from foe. It is impossible to overstate the amount of hindrance to mission work and to all civilising influences which has been occasioned by the lawless proceedings of unprincipled white men, too many of whom have proved themselves truly white barbarians. In their greedy craving for gain, they have so thoroughly quenched every spark of justice and honour in their dealings with the dark-skinned races, that on some of the Papuan Isles, the name by which the natives describe a white man means literally " a sailing profligate." The vessels employed in the labour trade — i.e., in " engaging " or securing men to work on plantations in Fiji or Australia — were l)y no means the only culprits, though the horrible cruelties prac- tised by many of these in former years have been a disgrace to humanity. ISTearly as much harm was done by men engaged in the sandal-wood trade, who gloried in defrauding the natives by every means in their power — promising certain articles in exchange for a given amount of sandal-wood, and on its receipt sailing away, to be no more heard of. Or perhaps they inveigled a chief on board, and there kept him as a hostage till his people brought large quantities of sandal-wood as his ransom; and having secured all they could get at that particular isle, they still refused to give up the chief — probably secured some of his followers, and carried them to another isle, where they forced them to work for months in cutting the coveted wood, and finally sold them to the natives, in exchange for yams and pigs — a man fetching from five to ten live pigs, according to his size. It is almost needless to say that the hostile natives merely purchased the strangers as food for the cannibal oven. Occasionally some of these unfortunates contrived to escape, and got on board whaling-ships, where they were kindly treated, and some were even taken back to their own isles. There were ships which fired unscrupulously on any village which failed to bring them sandal-wood. On one occasion three vessels engaged in this trade anchored off one of the New Hebrides. Their men plundered the yam-gardens and stole all the pigs, numbering several hundreds. Of course the owners resisted, and were MOKE MAKTYKS. 141 ruthlessly shot. Finally, many took refuge in a cave, when tlie white barbarians proceeded to pull down the houses and heap up the dry thatch and rafters at the mouth of the cave as fuel for a great bonfire. Of course all the inmates were suffocated. Such deeds as these, of course, led to reprisals; and Dr Turner says that, to his own knowledge, upwards of 320 men engaged in the sandal- wood traffic perished between the years 1839 and 1848. Such facts as these should be borne in mind, as affording the clue to many an unprovoked outrage by brown men on white. The tradition of past wrongs lingers long in savage races. Within a year of John Williams's murder, the Eev. George Turner and Rev. H. Nisbet attempted to commence work in the same field, but found it impossible. Even while they Avere struggling to maintain their position on the isle of Tanna, a whaling-ship touched there for water, and her men immediately fell to quarrelling with the natives, whereupon the vessel weighed anchor and sailed along the coast, firing promiscuously into all the villages she passed. There would not have been much cause for wonder if the savages (who had seen Mr Turner directing these men where to find water) had at once turned on him and his com- panions and murdered them all. As it was, they continued to brave the perils of their position for some months ere they were compelled to fly. When Mr Turner revisited Eromanga in 1859, the Eev. Gordon, who was then settled there, told them that a few months previously another sandal-wood trader had got into serious trouble, and three of his men had been killed by the natives ; but he him- self acknowledged that they had earned their fate. On that occa- sion the Eromangans had the discrimination to spare the righteous ; but not long afterwards Mr Gordon and his W"ife were cruelly murdered. Eleven years passed, when a message reached the Eev. J. D. Gordon (brother of the above) praying him to come and heal some sick children at Eromanga. As a medical missionary he at once complied, only to hear on his arrival that the children were dead ; and their father could find no solace for his blind, ungrateful 142 A lady's cruise. grief, but to slay the raediciuc-man who liad arrived too late. One blow from his toinaliawk added yet another to the grievous list of the martyrs of Eromanga. At the mission station at Apia, on the isle of Upolu, on the very spot where John Williams first landed in Samoa, and where he stood to bid what proved to be his last farewell to the people — two graves lying side by side contain some bones brought to Samoa in 1840 by H.M.S. Favourite, in the belief that they were those of the martyrs. It is now, however, known that they were bones taken at random by the natives* from a cave where they are wont to deposit their own dead, under the impression that the foreign ship wished to purchase human bones. The skull of John Williams is buried beneath a palm-tree on Eromanga, ■which is doubtless as quiet a resting-place as a foreign grave in turbulent Apia. ISTear it, was buried a small bit of red sealing- wax, about an inch and a half in length, which was found by the natives in his pocket, and supposed to be a foreign idol. This relic was afterwards disinterred and sent home to his children. I think the attempt to recover the remains of the dead from their savage murderers is at best very unsatisfactory. We had a fair example of it in Fiji, where great efforts were made to recover the bones of the Eev. Baker, who was there killed and eaten. So successful was this endeavour that one mission station alone has received three skulls, all positively declared to be his ! While both the London Mission and the Wesleyans have done such excellent work in Samoa, it is to be regretted that a corner of rivalry should have contrived to creep in — a rootlet of bitter- ness — not very serious perhaps, but still a corner of contention. It appears that at the time when Mr Williams first landed in Samoa, in 1830, several native teachers from the Wesleyan Mission in Tonga had already begun to work there, and the promise of white teachers had already been made to expectant congregations. When, therefore, in 1835, the Eev. Eeter Turner, of the Wesleyan Mission, reached the isle of Manono, he was received with open arms by a zealous flock ; and when, shortly afterwards, he travelled round the isles of Savaii and Upolu, he found more than 2000 KIYALRY IX THE GRAND AKMY. 143 persons who were members of tlie Tonga lutu, and 40 persons v.'lio were acting as teachers. At that time the Tahiti lotu — i.e., the Loudon Mission — was only represented by five or six Tahitian teachers, who were located at certain towns, and confined their labours to their immediate neighbourhood. On Mr Turner's arrival he commenced diligently seeking the people in all parts of the isles, with such marked re- sult that within twenty months upwards of 13,000 persons had joined the Tonga lotu. The "NVesleyans specially note that Mr Turner Avas the first resident white missionary in Samoa. Some months after his arrival came a trading ship, which' brought Mr Pratt, as represent- ative of the London jMission ; and in 1836, six missionaries of the London Society arrived and held a public meeting in the Tahitian chapel at Manono, when it was clearly proved that a considerable number of Samoans had adopted the Tonga lotu before the arrival of Mr Williams, though they only met for worship quietly in their own homes. The Tahitian teachers were the first who began to conduct public services, but their adherents were found to be numerically fewer than those of the Tongans. Stress is laid on these details, because it was alleged by the London Mission that Messrs N. Turner and Cross had agreed with Mr Williams to devote their efforts to the Fijian group, and leave the JS'avigator's Isles to the London Mission. Messrs Turner and Cross, on the other hand, entirely repudiate any such compact, and state that the first they heard of it was when the London missionaries arrived in Samoa, where their agent was already estab- lished, in accordance with tlieir promise to the friendly chiefs. As neither party were inclined to yield, both missions continued to work simultaneously, each acknowledging the good work done by the other, yet regretting the division, which might so easily have been avoided. However, it has been a sacrifice of uniformity rather than of unity ; and I suppose the Church militant must always be made up of divers regiments. I believe the London Mission has at present seven congrega- tional ministers in Samoa, and seventy-five native teachers. Their 114 A lady's chuise. nominal adherents number about 30,000. The Australasian Wes- leyan Mission has two white missionaries and one native minister. These superintend the work of 50 teachers and 85 local preachers. There are 47 chapels, with 1200 church members, and congrega- tions numbering altogether about 5000. The Roman Catholics number about 4000. As has been the case throughout Polynesia, many of the new converts have become earnest missionaries ; and not only have several Samoan teachers found their Avay to Fiji, but when in its turn the infant Church in that group determined to commence a mission among the savage races of New Britain, two Samoan teachers volunteered to accompany their Fijian brethren on this noble but dangerous enterprise. Others have gone to settle in the very uninviting Gilbert and Kingsmill groups, close to the equator, amongst hideous tribes of the lowest type, whose barren isles fail to yield any manner of crop ; so that for lack of better diet, the unpalatable fruit of the pandanus, which in Samoa is only used for stringing into necklaces, is accounted an important item of food. For love of these poor souls these self-denying men give up their own most lovely homes, and bid a lifelong farewell to parents and kindred. Many a bitter scene has been enacted on these shores, when aged relatives, clinging to these dear ones with all the demonstrative love of the warm southern temperament, follow the mission-boat as it pushes off, and wade up to the shoulders, weeping and wailing for those who may never come back to them, and knowing full well how many have already fallen in the hard- fought battle. Certainly these Samoan teachers have given good proof of their zeal and willingness to endure hardship, as good soldiers of the Cross. NOTE OX ETU OR TOTEM WORSHIP. We are so much in the habit of considering this strange worship of representative animals, in connection with the simple superstitions of such utterly uncivilised races as these poor savages of the Pacific Isles, or ETU-WORSniP. 145 the Indian tribes of America, tliat it is startling to recollect how large a place it held in the intricate mythology of so wise and learned a people as the ancient Egj'ptians, who not only excelled in all arts of peace and war, but seem to have mastered many of those mysteries of science which still perplex the learned men of the nineteenth century. Long ere the Greeks and Israelites had learnt their earliest lessons from the sages from Egypt, and while Eome was but a village of mud-huts, the banks of the Nile were graced with buildings, which, in their stately beauty, rivalled the marvels of Babel. Prominent among these was the temple of the sacred bull Mnevis. The patron god of Memphis was the golden bull Apis, to whom pure white bulls were sacrificed ; while in his hon- our jet-black bulls were worshipped during life, and after death were embalmed, and preserved in sarcophagi of polished black basalt. Only their bones were preserved, swathed in linen, and tied up so as to resem- ble an animal lying down. A full-grown bull thus prepared was no bigger than a calf, while a calf was the size of a dog. Thirty-three of these sacred bull-mummies were found in the catacombs, each in its own sarcophagus. Other catacombs were entirely devoted to the mummies of sacred dogs and cats, beetles and mice, hawks and ibis, each neatly strapped up in linen and sealed up in a red earthenware jar. These are found packed like the contents of some vast wine-cellar — tier behind tier, and in layers reaching to the roof of the catacombs, some of which are large caves, ■with endless ramifications ; yet chamber after chamber of these vast storehouses are all alike closely packed with this vast multitude of mummy-jars, accumulated by countless generations of reverent wor- shippers. Strangest of all these sepulchres of sacred creatures, are the crocodile mummy-pits, in which are stored a vast assemblage of crocodiles of all sizes, from the patriarch measuring twelve or fourteen feet in length, to the poor baby only five inches long, each wrapped up in palm-leaves. Thousands of these little demigods, about eighteen inches long, are tied together in bundles of eight or ten, and swathed in coarse cloth. True believers in the crocodile-headed god Savak, kept these creatures tame in a great crocodile city near the artificial lake Mceris, Avhere they were fed with cake and roast meat, washed do'wn by draughts of mulled wine ; their fore-feet were adorned with golden bracelets, and their ears were pierced and enriched with precious gems. But the worshippers had to figlit the battles of their gods against various irreverent neighbours, notably against the people of Elephantine, who, so far from worshipping the crocodile, considered it a dainty dish, to be eaten as often as it could be captured. So well known to their contemporaries was this Egyptian reverence K UG "a LADYS CltUISE. for certain birds, beasts, and insects, that on at least one occasion it proved a valuable aid to their foes, as when Cambyses captured a city, by forming a vanguard of all manner of animals — cats and dogs, bulls and goats — assured that one or other must be held sacred by the besieged ; and so it proved, for the latter dared not throw a dart lest they should injure their " bleating gods." Each of these had their especial sacred city, where their precious remains were embalmed and their mummies stored. Dogs and ichneu- mons might indeed be buried in their own cities, but hawks and shrew- mice were generally conveyed to Buto, and ibises 1x) Hermopolis. Onupliis was the city specially dedicated to the worship of the asp ; but all manner of serpents were worshipped in gorgeous temples over the length and breadth of the land, and the reptiles were fed with flour and honey by their appointed priests, and their bodies eventually embalmed with all possible reverence. Cat-mummies were stored in the sacred city of Bubastis ; goats at Mendes ; wolves were preserved in pits near Sioux ; while the ram, sacred to the sun, was worshipped at I'hebes, the sun city. The death of a cat was considered so dire a misfortune, that if a house Avere to take fire the Egyptians would let it burn to the ground, if only they could rescue the cats, which, however, had an awkward trick of jumping into the flames. Should one of these perish, all the inmates of the house shaved their eyebrows. Should a dog die, the head and beard were also shaved. Each species of animal had its appointed guardians to feed and tend them, the oflice being hereditary. A heavy fine attended any accident which befell these precious creatures ; and should one perish through carelessness, the life of the keeper was forfeit, more especially if the \dctim were an ibis or a hawk, for whose death tliere was no forgiveness. The hawk, whose piercing eye can so fearlessly gaze upon the sun, was the special tj'pe of that great source of light. It was worshipped in Heliopolis and the other sun temples, where living birds were kept in cages, and pictures of sacred hawks, seated amidst lotus-plants, adorned the walls. With such reverence were they treated, that when the Egyptian hosts went forth to battle, they carried their hawks with their armies ; and should some chance to die in foreign lands, their bodies were embalmed, and brought to Egypt to be buried in consecrated tombs. Thus numerous hawk-mummies have been discovered at Thebes and elsewhere. Hence it would appear that each of these creatures was the totem, or representative animal of some tribe, which bestowed thereon all due veneration in life and in death. Probably the totem of one tribe would receive no honour from the next. Hence the battles already alluded to between the cities which worshipped crocodiles and those which ate ETU-WOESHIP. 147 them ! and the still more deadly civil wars that raged between the worshippers of the Oxyrinchus fish and the dog-worshippers of Cyno- polis, when the latter were guilty of fishing in the Nile, and not only capturing the holy fish, but also eating them. No salmon commissioners could be more wrathful at the wilful destruction of salmon-fry than were these fish-adoring Egyptians when tidings of the crime reached their city. Swift vengeance followed ; for the deified dogs, worshipped by the gluttonous offenders, were caught and sacrificed to appease the wrath of the fish-gods, their flesh affording a delicious feast for the priests. This of course led to a prolonged civil war, and the sacking of towns and bloodshed were only checked by the arrival of the Roman legions, who punished both parties, and reduced them to order. Such wars continued from time to time, even so late as the fourth century after Christ, by which time, however, various cities (notably that of Oxyrinchus) had adopted the new fiiith, and the cells set apart for sacred animals were tenanted by the monks. If we follow out this subject, it may perhaps bring us nearer home than we imagine ; for just as the Australian blacks are divided into clans bearing the name of the animal, or even the plant, from which they believe themselves to be descended, and which they must on no account eat or gather — and are thus known as "The Black Snakes," "The Swans," " The Turtles," " The Kangaroos," &c., — so our antiquarians tell us, that many of our tattooed or painted Anglo-Saxon ancestors bore the names of animals or plants, which doubtless were in truth the totem of their family. Thus the Bercings and Thornings traced their descent from the birch and thorn, and the Bookings from the beech ; and the homes of these families still bear such names as Booking, Birchington, and Thornington. Elmington and Oakington are supposed to have been peopled by sons of the elm and of the oak ; while Ashendon recalls the Ashings or ^scings, who bore the name of the sacred ash-tree ; and the Fearnings of Farningham were supposed to descend from a humble fern. Buckingham and Berrington are said to have derived their names from the Buccings and Berings, sons of the buck and of the bear ; while the followers of the wolf did him honour by bestowing on their children such names as Wulfing, Eadwulf, Beowulf, or Ethelwulf. The sacred white horse (whose image remains to this day on the downs of Westbury and Wantage, as clearly defined as when first our Saxon ancestors scraped the green grass from off the chalk hillside) was the symbol reverenced by all Aryan races, and Hengest and Horsa, the leaders of the early English, bore names which entitled them to command their fellows. They have left their mark in such territorial names as Hengestesdun, Horstead, Horsington, and many more. The Otterings of Otterington owed allegi- ance to the otter. 148 A LADY S CRUISE. The snake was as mucli revered in Britain as in all other corners of the world, and no disrespect was implied in describing him as a worm. Hence the family of Wyrmings, and such geographical traces as Worm- ington, Wormingford, and even Ormskirk and Great Orm's (or Worm's) Head. The Earnings were adherents of the earn or eagle ; the Everings or Eoferings of Eofer, the wild boar, whose home was at Eversley. Rav- eningham and Cockington are said to bear the name of the old lords of tlie soil, the sons of the raven and of the cock ; while the Fincings of Finchingfield and the Thryscings of Thrushington, are said to represent the families who adopted the Tlirush and the Finch as their totem. Altogether there appears good reason to infer that the reverence for birds and beasts, fishes and reptiles, which excites our compassionate wonder in reading of poor untutored savages, such as these Samoans, was once a powerful influence in our own British Isles.^ CHAPTEE X. LEAVE SAMOA — REACH TAHITI — GREY SHADOWS — DEATH OF QUEEN POMARE — LA LOIRE AND HER PASSENGERS — A GENERAL DISPERSION — LIFE ASHORE AT PAPEETE — ADMIRAL SERRE AND THE ROYAL FAMILY — FAMILIES OF SALMON AND BRANDER — ADOPTION. H.B.M. Consulate, Apia, Sunday Evening, ZOth September. It is finally settled that I am really going on to Tahiti. From what I have told you, you can fully understand that Samoa would not be an inviting place in which to lie stranded for an unlimited period ; and though I, individually, have received the greatest pos- sible kindness from many of the foreign residents, and from the Samoan chiefs of both parties, still the whole atmosphere is tainted with lies and the strivings of self-interest, and is altogether un- wholesome. So I have definitely accepted the invitation so repeat- edly and heartily given, and to-morrow I am to return on board the Seignelay. 1 See an interesting article on the origin of clan names in Britain, ' Cornhill Magazine, ' September 1881 — " Old English Ulaus." A SAINTLY HEART. KO I have just received letters from some, and messages from all on board, expressing cordial pleasure at my decision, especially from M. de Gironde, whose cabin I occupy ; so I really feel that I shall be a welcome guest. The great difficulty will lie beyond Tahiti, but I must e'en trust to my luck. It is also decided that the bishop is to proceed at once to France, both on Church business and for medical advice. It is a good thing that he is so soon to leave this place, where he is terribly worried by the attempt to reconcile so many conflicting interests. He looks much worse than when we arrived.^ This morning he officiated at High Mass ; and all the men and officers of the Seignelay attended in full uniform. The service was choral, and of course the church was crowded. I passed it on my way to a very small Congregational chapel, where Dr Turner con- ducted an English service. We met numbers of people on their way to the Protestant native churches ; and I was amused to observe how many carried their Bibles neatly folded up in a piece of white 1 It is hard to have to think of that tender and loving heart as of a mere material relic. Yet, as the heart of the Bruce, enshrined in its golden casket, was carried by his true knight to that Holy Land which his feet might never tread, so has the heart of this saintly prelate — the first BishoiJ of Samoa— been borne by his faithful followers, to find its resting-place in the church where for so many years he pleaded for, and with, his people. It was brought from France by Thre Lamaze, now consecrated Bishop of the Isles. The heart is enclosed in a glass urn, with an outer case of gold, orna- mented with precious stones, and supported by four angels. On the lid of this reliquary is a representation of a bishop appearing before the judgment-seat of our Lord. On reaching Samoa, the casket was deposited at Vaea, while preparations for its reception were made at Apia. On the 24th May 1881, about six hundred Catholics assembled at sunrise at the church at Vaea, to pay a last tribute of respect and devotion to their loved bishop ; then forming in solemn procession, they moved towards Apia. The children from the convent school at Savalalo walked first, fol- lowed by their teachers ; next the Catholics of Apia and the surrounding districts. These were followed by the clergy, four of whom acted as pall-bearers, while four others carried the heart. Last of all came the Catholic chiefs, the catechists of Vaea College, and the natives residing at the mission-house at Apia. On reaching the church, a sermon was preached by Bishop Lamaze, and the heart was then deposited in a niche in the wall, there to remain enshrined, as a perpetual memorial to the people of Samoa of the earnest and noble life that was spent iu striving to exemplify the holiness he preached. 150 A LADYS CRUISE. tai^pa ; just as an old wife in Scotland would wrap hers in a white liandkerchief ! In the afternoon my hostess accompanied me to the convent, where the children sang prettily while we sat in the pleasant gar- den. The sisters bade me good-bye quite sadly. " It has been des adieux all day," said one. Ox Board Le Skionelay, Monday, 1st October. M. de Gironde came at daybreak to escort me on board. All the Puletoa chiefs crowded round to say good-bye — and I ran down the garden for a last word with their " orator," a fine young fellow, who was nursing his new-born baby in the large native house. His wife is such a nice pretty young woman. I felt quite sorry to leave them all, not knowing what may be the next tidings of woe. We know that war may be renewed at any moment.^ SaUirday, eth Octoher 1877. (Tossing a good deal.) With a dreary waste of grey waters on every side of us, and no ^ The following paragraph is from a recent Hawaiian Gazette, showing the course of events in Samoa : — " We learn, through the courtesy of Lieutenant Abbot of the Lackawanna, some interesting particulars in relation to the political condition of the Samoan archi- pelago. The chief Malietoa, whose name is identified with the sovereignty of Samoa, is dead, and his nephew and namesake has succeeded to his political authority and state ; but a rival chief, Kepua Tomisasu, has been contesting the succession, and previous to the arrival of the Lackawanna there had been a series of desultory semi-barbarous war campaigns — not resulting in any decisive action or notable slaughter of men, but causing widespread ruin, robbery, and unrest. The American commander Gillis now presented his good offices in the way of reconcilia- tion, and to establish between rival chiefs and peoples of the same land a more harmonious and patriotic spirit. And we are happy to say that, after many baffling discussions, a political unity and harmony on Samoa have been effected — Malietoa II. being proclaimed King of Samoa, and his rival, Kepua, the Premier of Samoa, ■with an authority on public questions somewhat like our former Kuhina Nui. "The Samoan warriors have all dispersed and returned to peaceful pursuits. The terms of peace were drawn up and signed on board the Lackawanna in the harbour of Apia, and a royal salute of 21 guns was fired from the vessel in honour of the event. " We are glad to recognise that in this instance the commander of an American man-of-war intervenes solely as a peacemaker, and to promote the best welfare of a Volynesian people." UNDER EXTRA STEAM. 151 trace of land save two inquisitive boobies, wbicb have for some hours been flying round us, it is hard to realise that to-morrow we are to enter the far-famed harbour of Papeete, and that by this time to-morrow evening we shall be ashore, listening to the himenes of the multitude assembled for the great feast which begins the next day — a great feast, by the wa}' — held in honour of the anniversary of the Protectorate ! I wonder hoAV poor old Queen Pomare likes it ! \ye left Samoa on Monday, 1st October, and the next day was also called Monday, October 1st, to square the almanacs, so that we can say we had done the 1700 miles in just a week. The weather has been considerably against us, but extra steam was put on to insure catching this mail, as great stress is evidently laid on not losing a day in reporting the proceedings at Samoa to the Home Government. The amount of reports written since we started has been something prodigious ! . . . "What with all this writing going on, and the extra motion of the vessel from travelling at such unwonted speed, life has not been so tranquilly pleasant as in the previous weeks. I have had quite to give up my cosy studios on the big gun-carriage, or my quiet corner of the bridge. Instead of these, I have found a place of refuge and a hearty welcome in le carre (the gun-room), which does not dance so actively as the captain's cabin, over the screw. In it at this moment a select set are either reading or writing their home letters, ready for the 'Frisco ^ mail, which is supposed to sail from Tahiti on Monday morning. . . . (At this point, a wave breaking over the ship, trickled down on my head through the skylight. Hence the smudge. I Avonder how you would write with the table alternately knocking your nose and then rolling you over to the opposite side of the cabin ! ) Every creature on board is rejoicing at the prospect of returning to the Tahitian Elysium. To me this has been a dream ever since my nursery days, when the big illustrated volumes of old voyages that lay in my father's dressing-room were the joy of many a happy hour, combined with such sticks of barley-sugar as I can never find at any confectioner's nowadays ! Tliere we first read the romantic 1 Colonial abbreviation for Sau Francisco. 152 A lady's cruise. st.ory of how Captain Cook discovered those isles of beauty, and named them after the " Eoyal Society " which had sent him to explore these unknown seas. The Tahiti of to-day is doubtless a very different place from the Otaheite of 1774. Of course, in a highly organised French colony much of the old romance must have passed away with its dangers. But the natural loveliness of the isle cannot have changed, and I look forward with great delight to seeing it all. Every one speaks in the highest terms of Mr j\Iiller, our long- established English consul, and his charming Peruvian wife (so •Lord Pembroke describes her). Both are intimate friends of Cap- tain Aube and the bishop, who will commit me to their care on arriving. I have also an excellent introduction to Mr Green, the head of the London Mission ; and M. Vernier, of the French Pro- testant Mission, was once for some months at Inveraray. I hear golden opinions both of Mrs Green and Mme. Vernier, and of M. and Mme. Viennot, of the same mission. So amongst them all, I have no doubt that I shall be all right. But I cannot quite forget what a hideous future lies beyond. The total distance I have travelled in this large comfortable steamer, from Fiji to Tahiti, including trips from isle to isle, has been 2985 miles. From Tahiti (after this good shrp-has sped on her way to A'alparaiso) there remain two courses before me — either to go to Kew Zealand, 3000 miles, or to Honolulu, 3200 miles, — in either case in a small sailing vessel, starting at some uncertain period. There is a monthly mail to San Francisco, but that is only a schooner of about 120 tons; and via San Francisco would be rather a circuitous route to Sydney ! where I expect to meet Lady Gordon somewhere about Christmas. It is a hideous prospect, but I have too much faith in my luck to be deeply concerned about it. The worst of it all is, that I cannot possibly receive any letters till I arrive in Sydney, which may, I fear, be some time hence. As my wardrobe will by that time be considerably the worse for wear, you will do well to send out a box of sundry garments to await my arrival, otherwise I shall be reduced to appearing in a graceful drapery of tappa, with fringes of crimson dractena leaves; GREY SHADOWS. 153 but though the dress of Oceania is very becoming to the young and beautiful, the world of Sydney is hardly up to it, — and be- sides, I fear it would be scarcely suitable for old grand-aunts [presque grancVmere), as one of ray French friends put it yester- day ! It certainly is rather a shame to let you have all this trouble, while I have the fun of exploring sucli strange lands ; but it is a sort of division of labour, whereby you pay your tax to the family locomotive demon, who drives all the rest of us so hard, but leaves you in peace in Britain, to do your share of wandering by deputy. j^ow, as it is getting late, I must turn in, as I want to be up at grey dawn to see beautiful Moorea (the Eimeo of our childhood), and we shall sail close past it, as we make Papeete harbour. So good-night. In Harbour, Papeete, Tahiti, Sunday Morning, 7th Oct. "Well, we have reached Tahiti, but really I am beginning to fear tbat, like most things to which we have long looked forward, this is likely to prove disappointing. We came in this morning in a howling storm, im gros coup de vent, and everything looked dismal. Though we coasted all along Moorea, the envious clouds capped the whole isle, only showing a peak here and there. Certainly such glimpses as we did catch were weirdly grand ; huge basaltic jjinnacles of most fantastic shape towering from out the sea of billowy white clouds, Avhich drifted along those black crags. And below the cloud canopy lay deep ravines, smothered in densest foliage, extending right down to the grey dismal sea, which broke in thunder on the reef. "With strong wind and tide against us as we crossed from Moorea to Tahiti, you can fancy what a relief it was when, passing by a narrow opening through the barrier-reef, we left the great tossing waves outside, and found ourselves in this calm harbour, which to-day is sullen and grey as a mountain-tarn. At first we could see literally nothing of the land ; but it is now a little clearer, and through the murky mist we see a fine massive mountain rising above a great gorge beyond the town. But in 154 A lady's cruise. general effect of beauty this is certainly not equal to Ovalau, and even the toAvn looks little better than Levuka,^ though it is certainly more poetic, the houses being all smothered in foliage. Eut then it is fine-weather foliage — all hybiscus and bread-fruit, — the former, of that very blue-green tint, Avhich in rain looks as grey as an olive-grove ; while each glossy leaf of the bread-fruit is a mirror, which exactly reflects the condition of the weather — glanc- ing bright in sunlight, but to-day only rej)eating the dull hue of the leaden clouds. For indeed it is a dreary grey day, sea and sky alike dull and colourless, all in keeping with the sad news with which the pilot greeted us as he came on board — namely, that Queen Pomare died a fortnight ago (on the 17th September); so we have just missed seeing the good old queen of my infantile romantic visions. Her eldest son. Prince Ariiaue, has been proclaimed king under the hereditary name, and is henceforth to be known as Pomare V. But the people are all in deepest dule, and instead of the great rejoicings and balls, and himenes, and varied delights of the fete Napoleon (or rather its republican substitute, the anniversary of the Protectorate), on the 9th October, for which we had expected to find joyoi:s crowds assembled — always ready for an excuse for music and dancing — a festival to which my friends have been looking forward all the voyage, — instead of this, we see the crowds pouring out of the native church, all dressed in tlie deepest mourning, from their crape - trimmed black hats, to their black flowing robes, which are worn from the throat, and with sleeves down to the wrist ; they trail on the ground in sweeping trains, and are so long in front that even the bare feet are covered. There are no flowers, no fragrant AVTeaths, no arrowroot crowns, no snowy plumes of reva-reva — even the beautiful raven-tresses of the women have all been cut off. This is mourning with a ven- geance; and the Court circular has commanded that the whole nation shall wear the garb of woe for six months. I do hope that at least the commoners will disobey this injunction ! At present all the men appear like black crows. Apparently many are dis- 1 Capital of Fiji. SUMMARY MEASURES. 155 figured by foreign dress-coats ; and even those wlio retain the national j)areo (which is the Tahitian word for sulu or Avaist-cloth) are wearing black tappa or black calico ; and their heads are closely cropped. So sadly disfiguring ! and so terribly subversive of all our preconceived visions of Papeete, as the very ideal of light, and mirth, and soft sunlit colour. The even tenor of life in Tahiti has received several startling shocks since the 24th August, when the French Admiral Serre ar- rived here in the steam- frigate Magicienne, bringing the new gover- nor, ]\I. Brunnet Millet. But, sad to say, Madame Brunnet INIillet died on the voyage from sheer sea-sickness ; and her poor husband, who adored her, became positively imbecile from grief, so that he had to resign office immediately on his arrival. His natural successor would have been M. La Barbe, who, how- ever, had made himself generally obnoxious to the Tahitians, and to the queen in particular, by the injudiciously severe penalties which he enforced for some of her son's peccadilloes. She there- fore wrote to the admiral to say that if La Barbe became governor, she would at once leave Tahiti and retire to Moorea, thus leaving all business at a dead-lock. Thereupon the admiral promised that her will should be respected, and announced that he would himself assume the office of governor, till such time as a fresh appointment could be made in Paris. La Barbe remonstrated. The admiral bade him be silent. He persisted, and was immediately placed under arrest for fourteen days, at the end of which time his sword was returned to him, and he had to put it on, and go to thank the admiral formally for his goodness in restoring it ! But as hi? presence in the Isles would thenceforth have been unpleasant, he and his wife and grown-up son, together with M. Brunnet Millet, have been shipped as passengers on board La Loire, which is now lying alongside of us, on the eve of sailing for France. She is a great big line-of-battle ship, transformed into a transport, for the conveyance of convicts from France to New Caledonia, but returns comparatively empty. So far, her passenger list does not sound cheerful ! The moment we reached our moorings, a boat was despatched in 156 A lady's cruise. hot liaste to convey to the admiral the despatches concerning the little episode in Samoa. I fear our kind captain is not free from misgivings as to the light in -which that unlucky business may be viewed by his superior officer, H.B.M. Consulate, Papeete, Sunday Eoening. Alas ! alas ! the wretched Samoan adventure has indeed ended most lamentably. The admiral, who from all accounts is a very severe stern man, had no sooner read Captain Aube's report, than he signalled for him to go on board La !Magicienne, and informed him, that as he was quite incapable of understanding his line of action at Samoa, the only thing he could do was to send him back to France, as a passenger in La Loire, that he might himself ex- plain his motives at headquarters ; -^ in short, he removed him from his command of the Seignelay. Ten minutes later, the fine old sailor returned on board the vessel that was no longer his, to announce this dreadful news to his officers, on whom the blow fell like a thunderbolt. For, as I have told you, they have all lived together on the most cordial terms ; and no family, losing a dearly loved father, could be more utterly wretched than are all on board, both officers and men. Many fairly broke down ; and I am sure I do not wonder, for it is a lamentable break-up of such a happy ship-family. AVhat a houle- versement of all the pleasant pictures we were conjuring up only last night ! Certainly this is a very heavy penalty for what was, at the worst, an error in judgment. The regret on shore is almost as great as on the vessel ; for Commandant Aube is Avell known here, and exceedingly popular with all the foreign residents, who had hoped that he would be appointed Governor of Tahiti. This is a grievous ending to our delightful voyage, and I need not tell you how doAvnliearted I feel about it all. I could almost wish that we had never gone near miserable Samoa, with all its jars and hatreds. ^ An explanation which resulted in the complete exonerati'on of Captain Aube, and his appointment to the command of La Savoie,— a finer vessel than that from which he had been so summarily dismissed. SORROWFUL PARTINGS. 157 I must close this letter, as the little mail-scliooner iN'autilus sails for San Francisco in the morning, taking as passengers Monseig- neur Elloi and M. Pinart. They hope to be able so to represent }uatters at "Washington and in Paris as to put the Samoan episode in the best possible light. I grieve to say the bishop is very ill ; all these worries are very trying to him, and he loses ground daily. The prospect of so long a voyage in a little schooner of about 200 tons, with very mixed society, is anything but pleasant for an invalid, and a trying change from the comforts of the big ship. The actual distance is 4000 miles, and the voyage may be made in twenty-five days. But with contrary Avinds, the distance is sometimes increased to 6000 miles, and the voyage occupies six weeks ! So I cannot tell at what date this letter will reach you. — Good-bye.-^ Chez THE Rev. James Green, LoiTDON Mission, 9th Oct. To-day has concluded the tragedy. Last night (after a farewell dinner with his officers, and a few touching last words to his men, who wept bitterly, sobbing aloud like cliildren, and who cheered him lustily as he left the ship) Commandant Aube came ashore to take leave of his friends here, and at the British consulate. He was accompanied by his faithful dog, Fox, a poor sickly hound, on whom he has lavished infinite care and kindness throughout the voyage, but which he will leave here in charge of a Tahitian ; so he starts on this sad voyage without even his dog as a companion. We escorted him to the shore, and sorrowfully watched his boat making for La Loire, the old line-of-battle ship, Avhich sailed this morning with so sad a company. The poor Seignelay had the odious task of towing her out of harbour; and, as the ships parted, all the men burst into uncontrollable shouts of " Vive notre com- mandant ! " — a spontaneous demonstration, which must have been more satisfactory to its hero than to the stern admiral 1 The good bishop had the satisfaction of reaching la belle France, and there effectually pleading the cause of his friend, ere he laid down the burden of lite, which he had borne with so much anxious care for the weal of his people. Ke died very shortly altur his return to Europe. 158 A lady's cruise. Just then an accident happened, which might have proved very serious. La Loire accidentallj'' slipped a great tow-rope, which got entangled in the screw of the Seignelay ; and, misunderstanding the signal to lower sail, the ponderous old vessel nearly ran down the lighter steam-ship, which could neither work her screw nor answer to her helm, but had to hoist sail and run before the wind. Being unable to turn, she had to sail straight out to sea for some hours, far out of sight. I watched this inexplicable movement from the semaphore — a high station commanding a magnificent view of town and harbour, and of the distant isle of Moorea. The old sailor in charge was as much perplexed as myself. He decided that the Seignelay must have been despatched to the Marquesas or elsewhere, with secret orders ; while I decided that she must have " revolu- tioned," and gone off to France. However, this evening she re- turned, under sail, and was able to go to the assistance of a vessel that had drifted on to the reef ; so, on the whole, it was rather a fortunate episode, as it helped to distract the thoughts of all on board. Most of the residents here, bitterly as they regret the whole business, seem to agree that the admiral has really taken the wisest course, both as preventing (in the sense of prevenant) any possible remonstrance from England — in case she should espouse the cause of that very shady Anglo-American Fijian-Samoan house, Avith its convenient variety of flags — and perhaps, also, as saving M. Aube from harder judgment in France. But of course none of the officers can realise what a foolish episode that night's work appears to every one here. I have not yet told you anything of my own movements. On Sunday afternoon, M. de Gironde escorted me to the British consulate, there duly to report myself to Mr Miller, who for thirty years has been England's popular representative here ; indeed he has never left Tahiti since the day he first landed here, with his bright, sensible, little Peruvian bride. iSTow they have three grown-up sons, and a pleasant daughter, married to M. Fayzeau, a French naval officer, in charge of native affairs. He is a charm- A NOBLE TliEE. 109 ing musician, and most graceful artist, and has promised to make my way easy for several sketching expeditions. I had not been an hour ashore, when (on the strength of a letter of introduction from Dr Turner of Malua) I received the very kindest invitation from Mr and Mrs Green to come and stay with them in this their lovely home, just out of the town, and close to the consulate — a delightful nest, embowered in mango and bread- fruit trees, with oleanders and hybiscus to lend colour to the whole. It is oidy separated from the sea by the pleasant garden and a belt of turf ; so there is nothing to impede the view of the beautiful harbour and blue peaks of Moorea, while the valley behind the house runs up to a background of fine hills, which all to-day have been bathed in soft sunlight — that clear shining that comes after rain- On one side of the little lawn stands a noble old banyan-tree, from the very heart of which grows a tall cocoa-palm, — a curious tree-marriage, greatly admired by the people ; but in an evil hour an idiotic surveyor ascended this tree to take observations, and fastened a wire to the primary fronds, thereby of course cutting them, and so killing the palm, which now remains a poor dead monument of ignorant stupidity. The banyan suffers from an- other cause. The Tahitians believe that a decoction of its brown filaments and rootlets is a certain remedy for some forms of illness. They are therefore continually appealing to Mr Green for permis- sion to cut them ; and thus the growth of the tree is considerably checked. However, it covers a sufficient space to form a famous playground for the children, of whom there are a clieery little flock, though here, as in most remote colonies, the absence of all the elder ones forms the chief drawback to the happiness of their parents. But education in all its aspects has to be sought else- where than in beautiful Tahiti, by those who do not wish their families to become altogether insular; and my host and hostess retain far too loving memories of their own early homes in Wilt- shire and Devon to allow their children to grow up estranged from their English kinsfolk. This, like the majority of houses liere, is a wooden bungalow, 160 A lady's cruise. one storey liigli, with verandah, on to -which all rooms alike open — by far the coolest and most suitable form of building for the tropics. But there are a number of two and three storeyed houses in the town, inhabited by French officials and foreign merchants — notably the French governor's house, and the unfinished " palace," which has been in slow progress for many years. At the former, Admiral Serre now holds the reins. Stern though lie be in public matters, he is wonderfully kind and pleasant socially, and seems to guide his iron hand with much wisdom in carrying out the course of action he has marked out for liimself. As you know, he had scarcely determined on taking the government into his own hands when Queen Pomare died quite suddenly, to the exceeding grief of her people. Great was their anxiety as to what course the French would now adopt, — the royal family being so much at sixes and sevens that there was very good reason to fear that even the semblance of the ancient rule would henceforth be dispensed with. Instead of this, the admiral devoted his whole energies to bring- ing together its various branches — healing their breaches, incul- cating sobriety (with marvellous success so far), and generally getting them into a satisfactory condition. Queen Pomare's two eldest sons, Ariiaue and Tamatoa, have been very naughty boys, in most respects. The former has married a very handsome girl, aged seventeen — Marau Salmon; but hitherto the marriage has not proved happy. Tamatoa was for a while King of Eaiatea; but was apt to carry on such dangerous games when he was drunk, that his subjects drove him out of the island. He is, however, very clever and amusing, and is blessed with an adoring wife — a very charming and excellent woman, as good as she is bonnie ; Moe is her pretty name. Queen Pomare's third son, Joinville, died leaving a son. The fourth, Tevii Tapunui, is a very good fellow, but sadly lame. Well, by dint of coaxing and reasoning, and by turns assuming the part of father and " governor," the admiral first of all persuaded Ariiaue and Marau to make up the peace, and then proclaimed them King and Queen as Pomare V. and Marau Poraare — a cere- THE EOYAL FAMILY. 161 mony of which 1 liave just read full particulars in the ' Messager de Tahiti,' which, under the heading, " Le prince royal Ariiaue est salu^ roi des lies de la Societe et dependances," gives a detailed account of the meeting of the Legislative Assembly of Tahiti, convened by " M. le Contre - Amiral Serre Commandant - en- chef. Commandant provisoire des Etablissements frau^ais de rOceanie, pour reconnaitre et acclamer le nouveau souverain de Tahiti." The Legislative Assembly received with acclamation the deci- sions of the omnipotent admiral, who not only proclaimed Ariiaue king, but has further settled the succession for two generations to come. Queen Marau being half English, any child to which she may give birth is excluded from the throne in favour of the little Princess Teriivaetua, daughter of the king's brother Taraatoa, and the charming Moe, ex-King and Queen of Raiatea— thus securing the pure Tahitian blood-royal. Failing issue of the little Princess Vaetua, the succession is to pass to her cousin. Prince Terriihinoi- atua, commonly called Hinoi — a very handsome boy, son of the third royal brother, now deceased, who was known as the Prince de Joinville. These "decisions are said to have given great satisfaction to the Tahitians, who, with very good reason, had feared that, on the death of the old queen, the French would take the nominal power as well as the real, which they have so long held. Pomare's proud independent spirit must have chafed sorely under their tutelage ; but she contrived to endure it for thirty-five years. She was just sixty-five when she died, having been born on the 28th February 1813. She was the only daughter of King Pomare II., who was the very first friend of the missionaries when they attempted to get a footing in thes*. isles, and proved their stanch supporter to the end of his days.-^ His daughter's name was Aimata. In the year 1822 she married the young chief of Tahaa, who had received the name of Pomare