MONTENEGRO '<*> r u. °% $g Hie Sitmt &nt\iot. THE CHRISTIANS OF TURKEY : THEIR CONDITION UNDER MUSSULMAN RULE. Third Edition, crown 8vo, 5s. " Those who are still curious to learn what the status quo actually is in Turkey, will find a variety of data in a popular form in Mr. Denton's book." — Academy. " The tone of the book is sober. There is no rhetoric and no passion. It is simply a calm statement of facts, based chiefly on official testimony."— Spectator. " How blue books on the condition of Turkey have been manufactured by way of official answer to former complaints of hideous cruelty, fraud, and oppression, is snown in these pages with a clearness which un- happily can leave no room for doubt."— Daily News. " Mr. Denton has framed a formidable and unanswer- able indictment. We trust that his book may be widely and carefully studied."— Church Times. " Mr. Denton does not write from hearsay. He is himself a Servian scholar, he has resided in the country, studied the people and their ways, and in a good deal speaks as an eye-witness. His book is a valuable sum- mary and argument, and should be widely read and pondered." — Nonconformist. " Mr. Denton has resided in Servia, and is well ac- quainted with the Turkish rule. He knows, therefore, where to find evidence, and what its value is. His book should sting the political conscience of Europe to the very quick.*'— British Quarterly Review. DALDV, ISBISTER & CO., 56. LUDGATE HILL, LONDON. MONTENEGRO ITS PEOPLE AND THEIR HISTORY By the REV. W. DENTON, M.A. AUTHOR OF 'SBRVIA AND THE SERVIANS,' * THE CHRISTIANS OF TURKEY,' ETC. ETC- LONDON DALDY, ISBISTER & CO. 56, LUDGATE HILL 1877 LONDON : FEINTED BY VIBTUE AND CO., LIMITED, CITY BOAD. • • « »• NICHOLAS THE FIKST, $xincc of $tontint&to anb tlu gterba, A BEAVE SOLDIER, A PATRIOT PRINCE, AND A CHRISTIAN GENTLEMAN. •^92974 PREFACE. I owe it to the courtesy of the proprietors of the Church Quarterly Review that I have been able to embody in this small volume the greater part of an article on ' Montenegro/ contributed by me, in October last, to that periodical. By the like permis- sion on the part of the publishers of Good Words, I have also made use of two papers written by me a few years since, and printed in that periodical. For the information contained in these papers and in the present volume I am indebted to my own observations made whilst travelling in Montenegro, to replies sent me in answer to inquiries made with a view to publication, and to such books as I believe may be depended upon for their accuracy. The information so obtained I have sought fairly to place before the reader; and that I may enable him to verify any statements made by me, I have cited my authorities VU1 PREFACE. throughout. I have made full use of the testimony and the language of others, because I prefer to use their words rather than my own. I have, so far as I could, avoided all questions of momentary political strife, believing that whatever may be thought of the present aspect of the Eastern question, most persons, be their party predilections what they may, will sympathize with the Montenegrins in their heroic struggle for independence and freedom of religious worship. In addition to the description of the physical aspect of the country and the institutions of its people, I have given a brief sketch of the history of Montenegro, which, without possessing any claim to research, will be, I imagine, new to most readers. But though I have sought to avoid all allusion to mere party politics, politics themselves it were impossible to avoid, even if I wished to do so, since politics is only another name for the history of the present. 22, Westbourne Square, May, 1877. CONTENTS. tag a Introduction PART I. COUNTRY AND PEOPLE OF MONTENEGRO. CHAPTEB I. — Name — Boundaries — Superficial Extent — Pass FROM CATTARO 9 II. — Rivers — Mountains — Geology of Montenegro — Mount Lovchen 21 111. — Climate — Production — Exports and Imports — Roads 38 IV. — Political Divisions — Cetinje — Niegush — Rjeka — DlOCLEA — OSTROG 52 V. — Population — Military Forces — Tactics . . 79 VI. — Present Military Organization • . . .93 VII. — Physical Characters — Longevity — Dress — Cot- tages — Home Life 103 VIII. — Moral Characteristics — Position of "Women — Honesty — Chastity — Court of Appeal — Code of Laws — Equality of People . .119 IX. — Occupations — Land Tenure — Offices — Income — Expenditure 141 X. — Language — Literature — Printing Press . . 151 XI. — Ecclesiastical State — Education . . .161 X CONTENTS. PART II. HISTORY OF MONTENEGRO. CHAPTEB PAGK XII. — Montenegrin History until the Battle of Kossova * 179 XIII. — Montenegro an Independent Principality (1389 —1516) 189 XTV. — The Legend of Stanicha 200 XV. — Montenegro under the Pjrince-Bishops : Period the First, Elective Bishops (a.d. 1516 — 1696) . .210 XVI. — Hereditary Prince-Bishops — Danilo Petrovic 225 XVTL— The Vladikas Sava and Vassali (a.d. 1735—1782) 237 XVIII.— Peter I. (1782—1830.) 249 XIX.— Peter II. (1830—1851) 264 XX. — Restoration of the Secular Rule — Danilo II. 274 XXI.— Nicholas I. (1860) 288 INTRODUCTION. The war which has just broken out between Turkey and Russia, and which may yet involve at least some of the other powers of Europe in the struggle to obtain a better government for the long oppressed Christian subjects of Turkey, has made Montenegro a household word in this country. As this small Principality is but little known to Englishmen, and as it has now acquired an importance wholly incom- mensurate with its size and with the number of its inhabitants, it is my purpose to give, in part from notes made during a short visit to that country, in part from materials collected for this purpose, a brief account of the territory and people of Montenegro, together with an outline of the history of the Prin- cipality. Apart from its share in the present war with Turkey, Montenegro, however, though the { smallest ' '2' ' ' ' ' Wokte'negro . among peoples/ * deserves our respect for the suc- cessful efforts it lias made for the preservation of its independence, and may fairly claim a portion of that gratitude which we owe to the memory of John Sobieski and of the conquerors at Lepanto. A larger share, indeed, than they ; since this small handful of mountaineers has struggled for four centuries with hardly any intermission against the Ottoman power, has never submitted to its yoke, has kept alive the hope of freedom in the Serb provinces on the south of the Danube, has beaten back the forces of Turkey even when in the full career of victory, and has thus served, often at the most critical moments of European history, as a breakwater against the inundation which once threatened to sweep away all vestiges of civilisation, of freedom, and of Chris- tianity from the face of Europe. In short, for long years and centuries the whole life of the people of Montenegro was one prolonged fight of Marathon or Morgarten : one long unbroken struggle against the assaults of the most cruel and faithless of enemies, the common foe of the religion and the civilisation of Europe.' f Another fact in the history of this people is equally deserving of our respect and admiration. Monte- * Tennyson. t Freeman. INTRODUCTION. 6 negro has not only offered at all times a ready- asylum to the suffering subjects of the Ottoman Government, without distinction of race or creed, but so sacred is this right of asylum regarded by them, and so great is the confidence of their enemies in their chivalrous character, that during the wars along the frontier Mussulman women and children have frequently sought and found a haven of safety, not at a distance from but in the midst of their foes, and have lived without molestation among the Monte- negrins, whilst these people were engaged in a fierce struggle for their existence with the brothers and husbands of the fugitives.* In striking distinction from the practice of their enemies, female honour and life and the helplessness of childhood have been always respected by them. To recount our obligation, and the obligation of all Christendom, to this small state is to acknow- ledge the difficulties which lie in the way of any one who may attempt to give even an outline of the history of the Montenegrins. Their life is one * In the early part of the present war Turkish women and children were received by the Montenegrins, and fed and lodged with the same care as the Christian fugitives from the Herzegovina. In October, 1875, the official returns give a list of fifty-two Turkish women and children who were at that moment receiving shelter within the Princi- pality. 4 MONTENEGRO. of primitive, and but for the warfare to which they have been compelled of almost arcadian, simplicity. Their history is one long epic, in which the deeds of heroism, wrought out in their mountain home, seems more fitted for the verse of the poet than for the sober pen of the historian. It is, indeed, hardty possible to relate the fortunes of this heroic people without appearing to encroach upon the province of the writers of romance, and thus ' begetting in the mind of the reader a restless suspicion of exaggera- tion and of fable/ * It is impossible that it should be otherwise. The fact that a state which makes but a mere speck on the map of Europe, with a popu- lation at the most of about thirty thousand men, women, and children, f should at the time when the Sultans of Turkey were most powerful and most bent on conquest have been able successfully to maintain its independence, is as marvellous as many of the fables of romance. And yet this is in brief the history of Montenegro.^ * Gladstone. t The population of Montenegro did not reach thirty thou- sand until the accession of the Berda towards the middle of the last century. J ■ In many eyes it must be an ideal land where military service is absolutely universal, where primary instruction is also absolutely universal — I may add, where the ownership of land is universal also. In Montenegro, as in prehistoric INTRODUCTION. 5 The marvels which run through their history will be better understood after an examination of the physical aspects of the country and a survey of the habits and condition of its people. Greece, every man goes armed ; every man, dressed in the picturesque costume of his tribe, carries his pistol and yataghan in his girdle. But if he can wield pistol and yataghan, he can also turn either to his spade or to his pen. Here, and perhaps here only in the modern world, we can see the very model of a warrior tribe, a nation of a quarter of a million who have known how to maintain their inde- pendence with their own right hands, and who at the same time are making rapid strides to a higher place among civilised nations than some of the great powers of the world. '—Freeman. PAET I. COUNTRY AND PEOPLE OF MONTENEGRO. CHAPTER I. NAME BOUNDARIES SUPERFICIAL EXTENT PASS FROM CATTARO. The reason for one half of the name by which this land of sombre desolate mountains is known in all modern languages has long been matter of dispute. Its cold grey limestone ridges, looking black by contrast with the lighter hue of the Dalmatian hills ; * the masses of dark pines, and of other forest trees, which, it is said, once covered large portions of its mountain heights ; f the terror with which the * ' Quiconque aura vu le front calcaire, la face grise des cimes du Montenegro sous los sombres nuees qui les enveloppent en un jour d'orage, comprendra aisement qu'on leur ait donne le nom de Montagne Noire, comme sur les confines du pays de Bade on a donne, a une large et profonde pyramide de sapins le nom de Schwarzwald (Forefc Noire).' — Lettres sur VAdriatique et le Montenegro, par M. X. Marmier, t. ii. p. 98. See also Sir J. Gardner Wilkinson's Dalmatia and Montenegro, vol. i. p. 402. t ' All along the road, and in all that I saw of Monte- negro, the mountains are of that bluish-grey which darkens so curiously in the afternoons and the winter into rich 10 MONTENEGRO. Montenegrins inspired the Turkish inhabitants of the lowlands who dwelt along their frontiers ; and the name of one of the dynasties which formerly ruled this country* — have been severally assigned by one writer or another as the meaning of part of its name of Montenegro in the Venetian dialect of Italian, of Tzrnagora, in Slavonic, and of Kara- dagh in Turkish.f Be this as it may, there is no doubt as to the remainder of the name by which the country is known. Politically, as well as geo- graphically and historically, Montenegro is pre- eminently a land of mountains. Its strength, in all wars with Turkey, is due as well to the sterility of the country J as to the inaccessible nature of purple and absolute black, while in the bright daylight it ia only cold grey and at midday almost whitish. But see- ing the rock covered with the dark-leaved dwarf oak and other brushwood, which grows out of every crevice in black masses, the traveller recognises at once the meaning of the name so dear to its inhabitants — the Tzerna-Gora, or Black Mountains.' — Lady Strangford's Eastern Shores of the Adriatic, p. 139. * Le Montenegro Contemporain, par G. Frilley et Jovan Wlahovitj. Paris, 1876. + In pure Italian the name is Montenero, in Greek Mavro Youni, in Albanian Mal-Esija, and in Arabic maps Al- jubal-al-Aswad, all of which have the same meaning, ' the Black Mountain.' % 'Here a small army is beaten, a large one dies of hunger.' — Paton. PHYSICAL FEATURES. 11 the retreats, from which swarms of irregular soldiers have issued to defend their homes and liberties, and to repel alike the attacks of fanatical hordes and of veteran armies. Its songs, almost its only literature, are inspired by the mountain breeze. The character of its hardy inhabitants is such as is only found in mountainous countries. And the chaos of limestone, either prolonged in short ridges, serrated and rugged with bluff irregular spurs, or bent in a circle enclosing a small plain of fertile land, as the crater is girdled by the sides of a volcano, is the key to the history of this people, and will account in some measure for the success which has crowned their long struggle to maintain their faith and independence, from the day when at Kossova the Serbian power was broken and its monarchy lost, down to our own time, when the troops of Turkey keep ceaseless watch over its northern, eastern, and southern frontiers.* The chronicles of Montenegro are written for the most part in the popular songs which record feats of individual hero- ism, such as rugged mountain territory alone renders possible, but such as no other highland country can rival. * * La nature a ete gratuitement elle-meme le Vauban dos Montenegrins. La nature leur a fait un cercle do remparts, une enceinte continue.' — Lenormant, Tares et Montenegrins. 12 MONTENEGRO. Montenegro has the Austrian province of Dalmatia on the south-west, on the other three sides it is bounded by Turkey. The north-eastern frontier of Montenegro, formed by a ridge of the Dinarian Alps, is separated from free Serbia by a strip of broken ground, connecting the provinces of Bosnia and the Herzegovina with the district of Stara Serbia, in the occupation of Turkey. On the north- west it has for its boundary an offset from the same ridge of mountains, running nearly at right angles with the rest of the range, and stretching almost to the Adriatic near Eagusa. Within this line, how- ever, lies the beautiful and fertile vale of Niksic, held by the Turks, although ethnologically, as well as geographically and socially, it is a part of Mon- tenegro, to which indeed it previously belonged. Another mountain ridge, broken by a succession of lofty peaks, of which Mount Yegli Yerch and Mount Lovchen* are the highest, shuts out Montenegro from the sea, and forms its south-western boundary. On the south-east towards Albania the frontier differs in character from those on the other three sides. Here the mountain sinks into the plain, the gorges are wider, the breadth of fertile land greater, and the country depends for its defence rather upon * The Monte Sella of the Italians. BOUNDARIES. 13 the valour of its sons than upon any feature of nature. At this point the line of separation be- tween Montenegro and Turkey is made up in part of the easy slopes of various mountain ridges, which, however irregular in their formation, have almost always a south-eastern direction ; in part by the rivers Zeta and Moratcha and by smaller streams. Two ideas lie at the root of all Slavonic political organizations, the family and the race, not, as with other people, the individual and the territory. Until 1859 no official limits had been defined between Turkey and this Principality,* and Montenegro meant rather the country occupied by the Montenegrins than a district of country with a rigid line of demar- cation, a fact which it is not easy to obliterate from the minds of this people. In 1859, however, a commission appointed by the five chief European powers laid down for the first time with precision the frontier line, which includes the present inde- pendent principality of Montenegro. Unhappily for the preservation of peace, this line was drawn with so little regard to the fair claim of this people and to their means of subsistence, that it has added * The boundary between Austria and Montenegro had been settled about thirty years before this date. 14 MONTENEGRO. a fresh perplexity to the relations between the Porte and the Montenegrins.* In shape Montenegro has been compared to the leaf of a plane-tree, to which it bears a general re- semblance. Perhaps a better idea of its shape may- be obtained by joining two right-angled triangles at the apex of each, allowing one somewhat to over- lap the other. It lies between 42° 10' and 42° 56' of north latitude, and between 18° 41' and 20° 22' of east longitude of Greenwich. f The greatest length of the Principality, which is from east to west, is about fifty-five miles ; its greatest breadth, from north to south, about thirty-eight miles. In the centre, however, the Turkish territory on both sides indents that of Montenegro so considerably, that its northern frontier — that on the side of Herzegovina — is only distant some twelve miles from the first Turkish post in Albania : an arrangement which seriously impairs the defensive power of the country, and is provocative of fresh struggles between the * ' La delimitation qu'elle resulte du travail de la com- mission international de 1859, ne saurait etra considered comme propre a fixer dans l'avenir les limites definitives de la principaute. Ce n'est en effet que par exception que nous y voyons des confins bien naturels et surtout indiscutables, tels que ceux de la Zeta et de la Sitoritza.' — Le Monte- negro Contemporain, p. 87. t Or between 16° V and 16' 58' east longitude of Paris. AREA. 15 Porte and Montenegro. The superficial extent of the Principality is estimated at seventy geographical miles square. The frontier line is, however, so ir- regular, that the traveller who would trace the line of limitation would have to pass over two hundred and eighty miles before reaching the point from which he started.* It is not easy to compute the area of Monte- negro because of this great irregularity of its frontier; nor, when computed, do the figures give more than an imperfect idea of the quantity of the land that can be brought under cultivation, nor indeed of the real extent of the country, since the sides of the mountains, sterile as they are, are tenanted by peasants who cultivate with the utmost care the smallest patch of ground which has been formed in the hollows and crevices of the mountain slopes by the decay of vegetable matter and by the disintegration of the rocks during long ages. There are few more striking instances of parsimonious industry than that presented to the traveller on his ride from Cattaro to Cetinje— than the small plots, we can scarcely call them fields, of wheat, maize, capsicums, or potatoes lying in the hollows of the rocks. Corn-fields twenty feet by twelve, and * Le HlonUnigro Contetnporain, p. 90. 16 MONTENEGKO. potato-grounds less than six feet square, are of frequent occurrence.* Such a spectacle of industry can hardly be seen in any other country in the world. In the valleys on the southern frontier, where the country descends on one side towards Lake Skodra,f and on the other overlooks Budua and Antivari on the Adriatic, the soil is not only more fertile than the rest of Montenegro, but agriculture and horticulture have advanced to a degree of per- fection which would be observable in any country. $ There the hills are terrassed for vineyards, and fig and pomegranate orchards add largely to the exports of the Principality. Most travellers who visit Montenegro enter the * ' I saw clearings of so small a size as barely to admit of one potato plant or three of maize, and little fields but one yard in diameter.' — Rambles in Istria, Dalmatia, and Monte- negro, p. 249. * On a ledge of rock, in a little depression between the rocks, in a niche, in a mere crevice, in short everywhere within possibility, a little field has been made, the stones picked off, the rocks torn out, and, perhaps, earth added artificially ; and behold, a patch of potatoes or of maize ! Nothing else seems grown here, but I declare that I saw many flourishing little crops not a yard square.' — Lady Steangpord's Eastern Shores of the Adriatic. t The Palus Labeatis of Livy, xliv. 31. Skodra, the Scutari of our maps, is the name of the lake and the city at its southern extremity. X CYPEIEN Eobeet, Les Slaves de Turquie, t. i. p. 121. PASS OF CATTARO. 17 country from Cattaro in Dalmatia. Immediately above the small city, which is built on the narrow strip of land interposed between the waters of the Bocche and the mountain rampart of the Princi- pality on that side, lies the pass into Montenegro. Viewed from below the road appears drawn along the face of a cliff almost precipitous. It is only, indeed, by a series of zigzags reaching to the top that any road could have been constructed. For about half- way up this road, or ladder (scala), as it is properly called, is Austrian, and has been made with all the appliances which military science possesses. This part of the way consists of seventy- three zigzags per- fectly well made, smooth, tolerably wide, and guarded at all the angles by a parapet.* For the first three- quarters of an hour the Venetian citadel, which looks very ruinous, hovers above the head of the traveller, and hangs over Cattaro. Passing almost close to this, and by the Morlacco hamlet of Spigliari, the traveller soon quits the territory of Austria and takes leave of the road. From this point the terri- tory of Montenegro begins. The way is left almost in its primitive wildness — a chaos of rocks and water- courses. A pass which no military array could hope to force, and which a handful of such moun- * Lady Straxgford, p. 134. c 18 MONTENEGRO. taineers as Montenegro rears might hold against a large army. The top of this pass, which opens upon the plateau of Niegush, is almost five thousand feet above the level of Cattaro. If the traveller chances to mount this scala on a market-day, which appa- rently is almost every day in the week, he will pass files of mules and small ponies laden with the pro- duce of Montenegro, and groups of men and women, the latter nearly as heavily laden as the animal with bundles of firewood or of sumac, with fruit, vege- tables, or flesh, whilst the men, with some exceptions, are unburdened, except with their rifle and long pipe.* In ascending the pass the Montenegrins follow the windings of the road, but in descending these hardy and agile mountaineers usually shorten the distance by leaping from boulder to boulder in a straight descent, where the least false step would lead to almost certain death. After mounting to the top of the pass, if the traveller ascends the adjoining height of the Lovchen, his eye will take in almost * Misses Mackenzie and Ieby, speaking of their visit to Cetinje by this scala, say expressively, ' Although it was not market-day, the Ladder of Cattaro swarmed with Montenegrins as the ladder of a beehive with bees.' — Travels in South Slavonic Provinces, vol. ii. p. 221, second edition. No image brings back to the mind the lively scene better than this. PASS OF CATTAKO. 19 the whole of Montenegro proper, the plains of Upper Albania with Lake Skodra, together with the long parallel ridges of the Herzegovina and the Berda, and he will thus be able to trace the long lines of mountainous passes which have enabled the people to maintain their independence, or quickly to recover from any momentary reverses of the fortune of war. The impression which this prospect is calculated to make on a traveller is thus described in a private letter now before me : ' After nearly three hours of toil, partly on foot and partly on horseback, I reached the top of the pass, and was able to look down upon everything within sight. The view was one which will not be soon forgotten. Below me lay the Bocche di Cattaro, smooth as glass, reflecting as clearly as in a mirror the towers and white- fronted houses which rise far above the margin of the sea. Every mountain and ravine, every path- way winding to the top of the ridge opposite to me, every village or town, every vineyard and oliveyard, was sharply defined in the clear atmosphere, and the whole tract of country seemed more like a raised map than solid earth and deep sea. Turning from the road which I had passed over, I was now able to look inland towards Bosnia and Albania, and the 20 MONTENEGRO. sio-ht in this direction, though totally different from that behind me, was not less striking. I seemed to be looking out upon a turbulent sea of grey limestone, an ocean of rolling boulders and petrified breakers.' CHAPTER II. RIVERS — MOUNTAINS— GEOLOGY OF MONTENEGRO — MOUNT LOVCHEN. Though springs of water gush from the sides of the loftiest mountains, there is 5 if we except the time when on the melting of the snows they are furrowed for awhile by torrents, a singular absence of an} r - thing resembling a cascade in the whole country, and streams which rise here to the dignity of rivers would elsewhere be considered unimportant. Of these the Zeta, or Zenta, which gave its name to the whole country formerly ruled by the Princes of Montenegro, of which the present Principality is but a fragment, rises in the southern declivity of the mountain range to the west of the town of Niksic, and marks for a short distance the boun- dary between Montenegro and the Herzegovina ; it is then lost in the earth, and pursues a subterranean course until it reaches the neighbourhood of Ostrog, 22 MONTENEGRO. when bursting forth again it flows through the beautiful valley of Bielopavolic, and falls into the Moratcha, between Spouj and Podgoritza, near the ruins of Dioclea. The extreme length of this river, including its subterranean course, is about seventeen miles. i The Ejeka, or rather the Tzrnovichi-rjeka,* rises near the little town or village of the same name, and though possessing a larger volume of water than the Zeta, has a shorter course than that river, its length being less than ten miles. | It is, how- ever, navigable for large boats or barges almost to its source. It is a characteristic of several of the rivers on the Dalmatian coast of the Adriatic that they burst from their source in a full volume of water. Thus the Rjeka rushes out of a deep arched gloomy cavern, which has been compared to the vast portal of a Gothic cathedral, and after turning the flank of the mountains in which it has its source broadens into a wide sheet of water near the little arsenal of Obod, and having at length hollowed out for itself a deep bed, flows under the arches of a pic- turesque bridge, and past the village or small town to which it gives its own name, Rjeka. The waters * This river, because of its importance to Montenegro, is known generally by the name of ' The River ' (rjeka). THE KJEKA. 23 of this river, after being joined by those of a smaller stream, the Karatuna, near Jablac, fall into the Lake of Skodra. Viewed either from the rocks above or from its surface, this stream is one of rare beauty. Its borders are fringed with the Eaketa (Salix caprea, Lin.), with pomegranate bushes and fig-trees, and through a great part of the year are gay with the purple blossoms of the former shrilb, or afire with the scarlet blossoms of the pomegranate. Except ir. the character of its vegetation, the Rjeka resembles a highland river, and widens throughout its course into lake -like reaches, which appear to be closed in on all sides by the grey sterile rocks rising from its bed. The eifect of this breadth of water is, however, in a great measure, lost, in consequence of the fields of rushes and water-lilies, white and yellow, which cover the whole surface of the water except in the centre of the stream. These form a cover for gulls and other aquatic birds, and shelter numerous families of coots, water-hens, and dab-chicks, or dive-dappers.* The mouths of the ravines which open upon this river give the traveller glimpses of white-gabled cot- tagcs, peeping out of clusters of walnut, cornel, and * ' Dive-dapper,' the old poetic name of the dab-chick. ' Like a dive-dapper peering through a wave.' ShakspebB, Venus and Adonis. 24 MONTENEGEO. pomegranate trees. A third river, the Tzrnitza, has its source in the mountains of Triroga, overhanging the Bay of Spizza, near the junction of the Turkish, Aus- trian, and Montenegrin frontiers. This river is the shortest of any of the streams which rise in Monte- negro. It falls, like all the others, into the Lake of Skodra, at the north-western corner. It is navigable for boats only for a short distance above Yir-bazar at its mouth. The Moratcha, the most considerable of these rivers, though it rises within Montenegro, near the foot of Mount Dormitor, on the north- eastern angle of the Principality, flows through the Berda in a general south-western direction, loses the character of a Montenegrin river for a great part of its course, and runs exclusively through the Turkish territory of Albania, where, augmented by the waters of the Zeta, it passes the town of Podgoritza, and falls into the Lake of Skodra. This river is navi- gable from its mouth up to Podgoritza, but ceases to be so where it runs through Montenegrin terri- tory. In addition to these rivers there are also some small rivulets, which acquire importance in the general deficiency of water in large districts of this country.* The Mala rjeka, the Brestica, * The Eibnitza (Jish-river) rises at the foot of the moun- tains on the frontier of the Koutchi nahia, and falls into the ASPECT OF COUNTRY. 25 the Matica, and Sitanica, which fall into the Mo- ratcha — these, though full of water in the winter and spring, are almost dry, and hardly to be traced, in the summer and autumn months. The peculiar surface, combined with the absorbent nature of the limestone rocks, prevents the accumulation of water into rivulets and streams. Even wells are extremely rare. The inhabitants are therefore obliged to collect rain-water in cisterns for their household use and for their cattle.* The principality of Montenegro is divided into Montenegro proper, on the west, and the Berda, on the east. The former is for the most part a rocky, irregular plateau, rising on the north upwards of four thousand feet above the level of the sea, but falling in a rapid descent towards the south,f basin-shaped depressions like enormous craters; and valleys or gorges resembling deep chasms occur throughout the broken table-land ; whilst from the rocky plateau itself solitary peaks and short irregular ridges of mountains rise to a great height above the rough Moratcha near Podgoritza. It belongs, however, to Albania rather than to Montenegro. * Paper of Count Karaczay on Albania in Journal 0/ Royal Geographical Society, vol. xii. p. 48. f ■ Entre Cettigne et le lac de Scutari, la difference de niveau est d'environ 1,200 metres pour uno distance do 24 kilometres.' — Delakue, Le MonUnegro, p. 19. 26 MONTENEGRO. "base from which they spring, looking at a distance like the waves of a storm-tossed sea suddenly turned into stone.* This great plateau, Montenegro proper, terminates eastward at the valley of Bielopavolic and the banks of the'Zeta. The Berda,f though a great part of it is, like the western part of the Prin- cipality, an irregular plain of mountain country rather than a land of mountain ranges, is here and there broken by a succession of wild irregular val- leys, and partakes more than "Western Montenegro of the general character of mountainous countries, a land of steep precipitous ridges rising directly from the plain. Though these peaks and broken ridges lie for the most part in the interior of the country and on the northern or Herzegovinian frontier, yet Yegli Yerch, a little to the north of Risano, rises considerably above the average height of the rest of the mountains; whilst Mount Lovchen, which towers above Cattaro, is one of the three most con- siderable of the mountain heights of the Tzrnagora. * ' Suivant une legende, Dieu, lorsqu'il crea le monde, disposant les vallees et les Montagnes, portait dans un sac les pierres necessaires a. son ceuvre. Le sac, use par un long service, se dechira et les rochers tombant formerent ce chaos de pierres nomme plus tard Monte- negro.' — Delabue. t ' Berda,' plural of ' berdo,' a mountain. MOUNTAINS. 27 Mount Korm, or Kom,* on the south-east angle of Montenegro, which projects like a bastion into the frontier of Albania, rises in two peaks to an estimated height of from seven thousand five hundred to eight thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is covered with snow during greater part of the year. The other mountains attain an elevation at the most of five thousand feet. Mount Dormitor, on the north-east angle of Montenegro, and overlooking Bosnia and the Herzegovina, is estimated to be of equal height to Mount Korm.f Montenegro, how- ever, it must be borne in mind, is not so much a mountainous country as a mountain mass, hollowed by fissures and penetrated by occasional gorges, which open occasionally into valleys of moderate width. The valleys throughout the Principality are seldom more than three or four miles long, nor wider than one mile. The valley of the Zeta, however, is an Kum, the Arabic l mountain,' the cumulus of the Latins, is the name given to some mountains in Turkey, generally such as are isolated. This is the name given to a mountain islet in the Lake Skodra, near the Montenegrin frontier. t 'La hauteur de ces trois montagnes est a peu pres la meme, et peut s'evaluer a 2,500 metres au-desous du niveau de la mer. Dans l'interieur du pays aucun sommet n'atteint cette altitude, et les cretes sont escarpees plutot qu'elevees." — Lexormant, Turcs et [Mo n UnS grw* . 28 MONTEXEGRO. exception to this. It is in some parts nearly six miles wide, and is cultivated to a distance of nearly three miles on each side of the river.* In this valley occur almost the only hedgerows found in Montenegro. The geological formation of the Principality is for the most part compact grey limestone, passing in some places into marble, with occasional instances of dolomite. The plains in the south are of the same character as those of North Albania, which they join : a coarse conglomerate, so coarse, indeed, as to be scarcely distinguished from the ruins of Eoman masonry, which abound in all directions on the fron- tier of Montenegro. On the opposite side of the country, overlooking the vale of Niksic, the tra- veller will meet with singular deposits of small pebbles thrown up in heaps as on a sea-beach, and almost as difficult to walk over as the loose stones of a sea-shore. Lignite is found near the banks of the Rjeka ; and it has been satisfactorily ascertained that there are, in the province of Tzrnitza, near Lake Skodra, deposits of anthracite coal of considerable extent, though, so far as experiments have tested its qualities, apparently but of small value. Of the value, however, of such coal it is impossible to speak * Journal of Geographical Society, vol. xii. (1842), p. 51. THE LOVCHEN. 29 with any certainty, since the geology of Montenegro has never been investigated.* Probably, when the country has been carefully explored by scientific travellers, the limestone ridges will be found of greater importance than they seem at present. As yet the chief value of these ridges is in the supply of stone for the purpose of building. The hardness of this stone and the polish which it takes render it well adapted for this; and it supplies the only material of which palace and churches, monasteries and peasants' cabins, alike are built. As one of the great objects of attraction in Mon- tenegro is the summit of the Lovchen mountain, and as I have not seen it elsewhere described, I ex- tract from my note-book the account of a day spent there a few years since. To the lover of the pic- turesque the view from the top is the finest, as it is also the most extensive, in the whole Principality. To the Montenegrin it has another charm ; it is the burial-place of the late Vladika, Peter the Second, * Dr. Barth, the celebrated African traveller, contemplated making a careful geological survey of Montenegro. This project, however, was frustrated by his early death. The best geological survey of Montenegro, so far as I know, is the Aper^u GSologique de Montenegro, by COLONEL KovALEVOKY, in the Annates de la Geologic Paris, 1842-43. 30 MCWTENEGKO. great-uncle to the reigning Prince, and the last bishop who united in his person the civil and eccle- siastical power over Montenegro. Having arranged over night to visit this shrine, I rose at five o'clock in the morning, and by half-past five was in the saddle and on my way to the Lovchen, accompanied by M. Yaclic, the secretary of the Prince, and Cap- tain Zegar, of the Austrian army. For the first half-hour of the journey our way lay across the sandy plain of Cetinje ; at the end of that time we began to mount by a road which was a perfect chaos of stones, along which I left it to my horse to pick his way as he chose, satisfied that my reason was not equal to his sagacity in this matter. A road cer- tainly there was, but one on which no constructive skill had ever been exerted. When I looked at it, the thought flashed across my mind that the couplet of the Irish road-overseer in the Highlands was after all very sensible. The appropriateness of the words was so great that I could not drive the jingle out of my head: — "If you'd seen these roads before they were made, You'd have held up your hands and have bless'd General Wade." Here certainly were the roads, but as yet wholly un- made ; so that another generation of Montenegrins THE LOVCHEN. 31 may have reason, like their brother mountaineers, to bless some future road-maker who will do for them what the luckless Hanoverian general did for the Highlands of Scotland. After about three hours' scramble over the boulders which were strewed along our path, past hazel hedges and through beech scrub and fern brake, up precipitous heights, along dangerously narrow ridges of rock, and down into sunless ravines, we at length reached the foot of the moun- tain which we were to climb. Our path now was across a limestone ledge, which at a distance looked as though it had been turned up by some gigantic plough, probably in the prehistoric age. A preci- pitous descent on one side and a sharp slope on the other, without vegetation of any kind, compelled us to be cautious. At length we dismounted at the base of the lofty height in which the moun- tain terminates. Rude stairs, partly worn by the course of time, and in part cut for this purpose, lead to the top of the ascent on which stands the small mortuary chapel which is the object of so many pilgrimages by the people of Montenegro, as well as by strangers. This chapel was built by the Vladika, Peter II., and contains the tomb in which he left directions that he should be buried. When 32 MONTENEGRO. his death took place, his nephew and successor Danilo was absent in Yienna ; and on his return he found, to his regret, that the difficulty of the ascent, and probably the wish that the body of their revered chief should rest in the midst of the people over whom he had ruled with so much advantage to them, had led the Montenegrins to disregard his wishes, and to inter his body at Cetinje. As a law inexorable as that of the Medes and Persians prohibits the removal or the disturbing in any way of a body until it has been buried five years, Prince Danilo was unable to carry out the wishes of the Yladika for that length of time. When, however, the five years had expired, the body was removed from. Cetinje to its present resting-place at the top of Mount Lovchen. The chapel is a very simple one, and, though built only in 1845, is, from defects in its construction, already partially in ruins. It consists of a vaulted dome surmounting a round chapel of some twelve feet diameter, with a small recess or sanctuary at the east end. In this is a small altar. There is neither iconostasis nor furni- ture of any kind. The tomb occupies the whole south side of the chapel, and from its size recalls the memory of the gigantic stature of the Vladika who lies buried within. The part of the mountain THE LOVCHEN. 33 on which it stands seems intended as the base for some such building as this, for after rising gra- dually and at a moderate angle, the top of the Lovchen consists of a small rugged plateau resting on a precipitous base above the rest, and apparently placed on it, rather than itself forming a part of the mountain. In fact it resembles a gigantic pedestal. This is the part which we found it necessary to ascend on our feet. This pedestaled top is entirely destitute of vegetation, except that some few tufts of long coarse grass, and a wild thorn or two springing from the fissures of the rock, are found there. But however difficult and fatiguing the ascent to the top of the mountain, and however sterile the summit, all is forgotten in the singular but mag- nificent view which bursts upon the sight of the traveller as he stands beside the chapel-tomb. The eye then roams over the tops of the mountains of Montenegro, without seeing the plains which lie between their ridges, or getting a glimpse of the crater-like hollows which are to be found on almost all the heights. Grey in its silent sterility, the spec- tator seems to be looking down upon a stony sea, in which, without hyperbole, the waves may be said to be running mountains high. The woods of stunted oak and beech, which clothe with a scanty robe the 34 MONTENEGEO. sides of the mountains, are lost to the sight ; and the few traces of vegetation which may be seen appear like floating seaweed on the surface of the ocean. On one side the view embraces, as in a panorama, the whole of Montenegro, several ranges of moun- tains in Bosnia, great part of the Herzegovina, the large Lake of Skodra in Albania, and the adjacent plain veined with the silvery streams of water which fall into the lake. On another side is the Bocche di Cattaro, with every feature of the varied shore sharply defined ; and beyond this the dark Adriatic, on the bosom of which can be seen the snowy sails of its merchant vessels and the smoke of the passing steamboats. This is the general aspect of the scene. By going, however, to the edge of the precipice and looking down upon the country immediately below, the tra- veller gets a totally different view. He then sees not only solitary homesteads, but groups of cottages and fertile fields, and the vale between the opposite mountains, the limestone ridge on the top of which he is standing, seems alive with flocks of sheep and goats, and with men and women busied with the tillage of their fields.* * Mariano Bolezza appears to have enjoyed the same view, and found things in 1614 much the same as a traveller may THE LOVCHEN. 35 And now, when we had examined this singular scene, our attendants, whose number, by accessions from the farm cottages which we had visited, had swelled to eight, brought us a pail of new milk, and a large lump of frozen snow from some caverns at the foot of the Lovchen. This, with the aid of provisions brought with us from Cetinje, some bottles of good Montenegrin wine, ham, cold chicken, and excellent cheese, supplied us with a meal, for which the long journey and the clear mountain air had duly prepared us. Then came the invariable mid-day slumber, or at least rest, our attendants skilfully availing themselves of pro- jecting pieces of the rock, and thus finding shelter from the blaze of the noonday sun. At three o'clock we scrambled down to the point where we had left our horses, and, sometimes on horseback and some- times on foot, as the nature of the ground compelled, we reached the base of the mountain — it would be a misnomer to say that we reached the plain, as the find them at the present day. He speaks with delight of the view from, the summit : * Quando e sereno,' embracing ' verso levante Durazzo et Scuttari ; ' whilst at its base he notes the Peccorella, ' Si che pasciutasi et abeverata se no riposa le piu arse hore del giorno, sotto a grandissimi, nume- rosissimi et amenissimi faggi, alberi, frasini, zappini che lo fan'ombra tutto il giorno.' — Itelazione. 36 MONTENEGRO. low ground was nearly as rough as we had found the sides of the mountain in the course of our descent. On reaching the bottom of the Lovchen we were invited to rest at the house of one of our attendants, and to eat roasted eggs and more ham, which for compliment's sake we did. This enabled me for the first time to see an ordinary Monte- negrin cottage. It consisted of one room built with stone without cement, the floor being the bare earth. When I entered cooking was going on, and for a time the smoke, which escaped on all sides, prevented me from seeing anything. When I was accustomed to this I found two little children, half naked, crawling on the floor and trying to get away from the stranger. Children generally in Monte- negro dread strangers. Besides these two children, my host had the care of two belonging to a brother killed in the recent war with the Turks, and also the mother of these children, so that there was no room to spare in the cottage ; but then in this climate there is for the greater part of the year the ' out-of- doors/ which is of unlimited dimensions. The little patches of corn, potatoes, and other vegetables in front of this cottage were, like similar pieces of ground throughout Montenegro, very clean ; indeed, not a weed was to be seen. What the people of THE LOVCHEN. 37 Serbia have no notion of — namely, the value of manure and the necessity of keeping the ground free from weeds — their Montenegrin brothers gene- rally seem to understand thoroughly. Their little fields are usually fenced in with walls of uncemented stones as this one was. Behind the house was a good- sized pigsty, and farther away were several beehives. The little niece of my host was watching a goat and a few sheep, and preventing them from wandering into the potato-garden and from getting among the maize ; and the bowl of milk which was placed before me indicated the possession of cows, though I saw no signs of them. After resting and doing justice to the hospitality of our attendant, who was one of the Prince's guards, we again mounted, and reached Cetinje about seven o'clock in the evening. CHAPTER III. CLIMATE PRODUCTION EXPORTS AND IMPORTS — ROADS. The soil of most part of Montenegro is of so porous a character that after a few hours no trace remains of the heaviest rains, and the hay-crops are often burnt up during the prolonged drought of summer. Some small streams, after a short course, are alto- gether absorbed, and disappear underground.* The plain around Cetinje, the capital, girdled by high crags, and resembling the huge crater of an extinct volcano, is almost wholly composed of sand, as though it had once been the bed of the sea. "Were it not that the excessive dryness of the climate is in part corrected by the dense fogs of the Adriatic, which * ' Quelquesunes rentrent tout a coup dans les entrailles du sol, comme si elles s'ennuyaient de leur voyage dans notre monde trop tniyant, comme si la nostalgie les rame- nait sous le dome de leur silencieux empire.' — Marmiee. i CLIMATE. 39 bring with them torrents of rain, this territory would be utterly sterile, and the few rivers which flow through it would be soon dried up. Delarue thus describes one of these fogs and its attendant fall of rain : — * 'Some days after my arrival in Montenegro I witnessed one of those storms which are so welcome during the intense heat of summer. About seven o'clock in the evening a dense fog covered the whole plain. The darkness was so great that the nearest objects were invisible. The rain fell in sheets of water ; the lightnings played along the heights which rise around the basin of Cetinje, and crowned them with circles of fire. All night long and until the next day the thunder crashed without inter- mission. "When morning came the plain around the capital wore the appearance of a swamp, and broad pools covered the whole of the ground. The corn wis entirely under water, and the wells, which the eveiing before were almost dry, were now over- flowing. Every trace of the storm, every vestige of water, disappeared during the day.' The dry clear climate of the high grounds enables the Montenegrin to be heard, and even to carry on conversation, at a great distance. From ridge to * Le Monttnegro, par Henei Delarue. 40 MONTENEGRO. ridge, to an incredible distance, they are able to communicate any news of importance, or to summon the armed array and direct its movements, without the need of signals for the eye. To use the words of a French traveller, they are thus able to dispense with the help of the electric telegraph, and each one becomes for himself a living telegraph {S'eriger eux ?nemes en telegraphes vivants).* This power of making themselves heard, and the practice of talking at a great distance, is thought to give a loudness and sharpness of tone to their customary voice. 'To be heard continuously, so as to be heard for miles off, is a highly valued accomplish- ment.' f The different elevation of the various districts of Montenegro causes some diversity of climate. In the south, where the country is more depressed, the summers are scorching and the winters mild. In the north, where the country is much higher than on the Albanian frontier, the breezes which sweep across Hungary temper the heat of summer though they increase the rigour of winter. Here there is much cold weather in the autumn and spring. On the highlands snow remains for most part of the * Marmier, t. ii. p. 112. t Travels in Slavonic Provinces of Turkey, vol. ii. p. 223. PRODUCTION. 41 year, and Bjeka is smiling with, the luxuriant ver- dure of June whilst the heights overlooking the town are white with the snows of December. This difference of climate according to the differ- ent elevations of the stony plateau gives variety to the productions of Montenegro. In the north, wheat, rye and barle}~, maize, capsicums, and a little tobacco are reared. In the south, vines, pomegranates, figs, peaches, apples, cherries, citrons, oranges, olives, mulberries, and tobacco are the chief productions. Cabbages, cauliflowers, potatoes, white and scarlet runners, pease, melons, radishes, and onions grow around almost every cottage, and supply food alike for the peasant and his family as well as for the litter of pigs in the sty, which yield them the chief part of their animal food. In the swamps near the source of the Ejeka, Mirko, the father of the reigning Prince, had a few years since several fields of rice, and on the hills between Danilograd and Selo-Gradatz, the same warrior farmer had an experimental plantation of coffee ; what success, however, he met with in his attempts to increase the number of the productions of Mon- tenegro, I am unable to say. The potato was intro- duced into the country in 1786 by the Vladika Peter I., and the cultivation of the root extended in 42 MONTENEGRO. a very short time throughout the whole Principality, where it is largely used by the inhabitants. It is also sold by them in considerable quantities in the adjacent market towns of Turkey and Austria. According to Sir Gardner "Wilkinson, the common trees of this country, in addition to those just enume- rated, are the oak, ilex, beech, ash, acacia, firs, hazels, wild pears, poplars, larches, cypresses, pines, yews, chestnuts, planes, limes, willows, and alders. The underwood on the hillsides consists of oak and beech scrub, arbutus, juniper, rosemary, myrtle, black- berry, and other brambles, and where the ground is not covered with these shrubs, savoury wild thyme and mint scent the air, and a profusion of clematis and other wild flowers climb the rocks on all sides, and furnish the pasture -ground from which the excellent honey of Montenegro is extracted.* These wild flowers, I believe, are the only flowers in Montenegro, except in the nahia of Tzrnitza. Ground is too precious to be used for unproductive purposes; and ornamental flowers are, so far as my experience serves, unknown. Perhaps the most valuable of all the trees in Montenegro is the scot- tano, or Yenus sumach (Rhus cotinus), which grows * Voyage Historique et Politique au Montenegro, par Col. VlALLA DE SOMMIERES, t. i. p. 175. PRODUCTION. 43 in considerable quantities in the Katunska nahia ; the wood and leaves of this tree are much esteemed for tanning and dyeing, and large quantities are exported to Trieste, to Ancona, and to Marseilles.* The mulberry-tree, chiefly the white variety, is cul- tivated by most of the cottagers in the southern part of the country ; and silk is fast becoming one of the most important articles which are exported from Mon- tenegro. Around Danilograd are nursery- grounds belonging to the Prince, and in these large quanti- ties of mulberry-trees are reared and distributed gratuitously to any peasant who may desire them. In the war of 1862 the army of Omar Pasha, how- ever, penetrated as far as this village, and destroyed every tree which Prince Danilo had planted. The same war against this tree was pursued wherever the Turkish soldiers reached ; and though the mulberry plantation at Danilograd again flourishes, the trees are but young, and it will take many years to repair the waste made by the troops* of Turkey. Sheep and goats are reared in great numbers throughout Montenegro, especially on the mountain slopes and in the valleys of the Berda. Their flesh, fresh or salted, supplies the markets on the frontier, * The sumac of Montenegro is considered superior to that of Sicily for the purpose of dyeing. 44 MONTENEGRO. and their skins and wool are largely exported. The smoke-dried mutton (castradina) of these mountains is well known in the markets of Istria and Venice, and is purchased in large quantities for the supply of the Austrian navy. Other productions which are exported are dried fish (scoranza), tortoise-shell, wax, honey, hides, figs, olives, butter, cheese, tallow, dyewood, firewood, charcoal, cattle, sheep, pigs, mats, ice, maize, vegetables, silk, and tobacco.* A large proportion of these productions is carried across the Turkish and Austrian frontiers and shipped to distant countries. The potatoes, onions, and other vegetables of Montenegro, supply the markets of Cattaro and Podgoritza, whilst the wine of Tzrnitza has acquired a reputation for its sound and whole- some qualities. An inconsiderable quantity of this wine, however, passes the frontiers of the Princi- pality. All these various productions would pro- bably be reared in greater quantities for exportation if there were any prospect of a market and remune- rative prices. The heavy transit dues of Austria, however, deprive the labourers of much of their fair profits. It is one of the hardships which press upon * The districts of Liechanska, of Tzrnitza, and Bielo- pavlic produce good tobacco, which brings a good price in the neighbouring markets of Turkey and Austria. EXPORTS. 45 this people, that they are debarred from the small and, to Turkey, almost useless ports at the foot of the mountains, such as Spizza and Antivari. "Were they in the possession of Montenegro, these outlets for their produce and their energies would have prevented many a war with Turkey. In justice to this latter power, it must be recorded that the Porte, it is generally believed, would long since have yielded them to the Montenegrins but for the interference of Austria, fearful lest the existence of a free port so near her Dalmatian territory would interfere with the monopoly which her goods pos- sess, and give to English fabrics an entrance into the markets of the northern and western provinces of European Turkey. A recent writer enumerates the chief articles of exportation, and thus gives, with some corrections, the following estimate of their value :* — Meat, salted or smoked . . £25,000 Cattle 85,000 Pigs 20,000 Fish, fresh or salted . . . 6,500 Silk, cocoons, and silkworm eggs 5,000 Carried forward £141,500 * Le Montenegro Contemporain, p. 115. 46 MONTENEGRO. Brought forward £141,500 Shumac . 1,500 Pellitory (Pyrethre insecticide) 3,000 Cheese, butter, eggs, fruit 2,600 Wool . 1,000 Firewood . . 2,000 £151,600 Wine, brandy, wheat, maize, and tobacco are not enumerated, since these articles are only exported in small quantities. The chief articles of importation are furniture and agricultural implements, cloth, linen, coffee, salt, lead, powder, and firearms.* In 1867 Turkey conceded to the Montenegrins the right to import without duty two millions of okes (upwards of two thousand tons) of salt, by way of the Bojano and Skodra. Afterwards this amount was diminished one-half; but at the time when the present war broke out Montenegro possessed the right of importing about eleven hundred tons of salt * 'Comme leur besoins sont fort peu considerables, la somme des exportations surpasse notablement celle des im- portations. Ainsi pour l'annee 1860, la derniere dont nous possedions les chiffres officiels, l'ensemble du commerce ex- terieur des Montenegrins est monte a un total de 1,305,000 francs, dont 992,000 francs pour les sorties et 313,000 francs seulement pour les entrees.' — Lenormant. FISHERIES. 47 free of duty to Turkey. Most of this is used in salting flesh and fish, afterwards exported. All other articles are subject to heavy import dues paid to that power or to Austria. The moneys which circulate in Montenegro are chiefly Austrian ducats, zwanzigs, and kreutzers. The Montenegrins, how- ever, are well acquainted with the value of English, French, Turkish, and Russian coins. The scoranza (ouklieva, Serb, the Mugil cephalus of Linnaeus), which is an important item in the exports from Montenegro, leaves the Lake of Skodra in the month of September, and finds its way into the Rjeka, where it is taken in great quantities, cured, and exported to Turkey, Dalmatia, and Italy. In size and flavour these fish resemble sardines, and they are excellent whether salted or fresh.* This fishery is the property of the Government, and is of such importance to the Montenegrins that the season for taking the fish is formally opened by a state visit of the Prince, who comes for this purpose with his court to Plush, a village situated on a rock jutting out from the right bank of the Rjeka. Though the scoranza is the chief article of com- merce, the rivers throughout Montenegro abound in other kinds of fish. The trout, which is excellent * Wilkinson, vol. i. p. 415. 48 MONTENEGRO. in flavour, attains to an enormous size. Sir Gardner Wilkinson mentions some white trout which weighed twenty okes, or sixty pounds,* and there are tradi- tions of fish larger even than these. The trout in these rivers are of two kinds — the white, which attains a large size, and a smaller kind, salmon in the colour of its flesh, and more delicate as food. The eels of the Ejeka are also large and excellent in quality, as well as considerable in size, and in addi- tion perch and carp are taken in great numbers., Martino Bolizza, a native of Cattaro, in the begin- ning of the seventeenth century (1614), celebrated the abundance and excellency of the fish in the rivers of Montenegro, and they have not degenerated in these respects since his time. Game is not abundant, though hares and rabbits are found; the bird most in request is the red- legged partridge. Wild ducks, however, frequent Lake Skodra ; the traveller may see flocks of wild pigeons in many parts of the country, and the black- cock is not an uncommon bird. Those who prefer the more exciting objects of the chase may, in addi- tion to the stag, the roebuck, and fallow deer, chance to meet with the bear, especially on the Bosnian frontier, the fox, the lynx, and the wolf, which in * Wilkinson, vol. i. p. 532. ROADS. 49 sharp winters prowls even to the neighbourhood of Cetinje, and the wild boar, which makes its lair on the banks of the Moratcha. As to the smaller birds, the absence of forest-land in one -half of the Prin- cipality, and the infrequency of hedgerows every- where, may, perhaps, account for so few song-birds visiting Montenegro. Flocks of starlings, however, Royston crows, and magpies may be seen on the open ground, and coots, water-hens, and gulls are common on the rivers ; whilst hawks, eagles, and occasionally a vulture, hold undisputed possession of the mountain solitudes. The rocks, which abound in fissures, shelter large numbers of lizards of various kinds. Travellers are also cautioned against the viper, the bite of which is frequently fatal. In that part of the country which is near Lake Skodra tortoises swarm, and attain a size which makes their shells valuable as an article of commerce. The extent and state of the public roads are some- times assumed as criterions by which to test the social condition of a nation. This, however, would not afford a true test of Montenegrin civilisation. Here a bad road has hitherto been a cherished poli- tical institution. Surrounded on all sides by watch- ful enemies, in an almost chronic state of warfare with Turkey, coveted by Austria, and more than de- 50 MONTENEGRO. sired by the first Napoleon, the maintenance of Mon- tenegrin independence has been a hindrance to the construction of such roads as the commerce of the country, and even the necessities of the simple social life of its inhabitants, would seem to demand. In the time of the Yladika Peter I., the Emperor Napo- leon offered in vain to construct a road from Cattaro to Cetinje, probaby with a view of extending it to Skodra. However inconvenient to the traveller the want of good roads may be, what is of far greater consequence, the safety of the country, is best main- tained without them ; and this consideration in past times prevented their construction, except to a very limited extent. The present Prince, however, has, like his predecessor, Prince Danilo, constructed seve- ral roads for interior communication. Long use and highland agility render the rough road of the Prin- cipality as easy to its inhabitants as level ground. Between Cetinje and Kjeka the Yladika Peter II. constructed what on the whole must be considered a fair road; and between most villages paths have been formed which diminish the fatigue of travel- ling without impairing the defensible nature of the country. The road from Ejeka, running south along the precipitous heights overlooking the left bank of the river of the same name, is of this description : ROADS. 51 wide enough at the narrowest point for two horse- men to pass — at least with some manoeuvring — easy for the sure-footed and agile horses of the country, but capable of being blocked and destroyed in the face of any hostile force which might attempt to pene- trate into Montenegro from the Albanian frontier. The state of the roads throughout the country being such as I have described, it is scarcely neces- sary to remark that carts and carriages are unknown in any part of Montenegro, and that horses are rare. Except in the district of Tzrnitza, probably four wheels are not to be found in the whole of the mountain territory, and few persons mount on horse- back except the chief and the Perianik guards. CHAPTER IY. POLITICAL DIVISIONS CETINJE NIEGUSH RJEKA DIOCLEA OSTROG. The principality of Montenegro is divided into two provinces, Montenegro proper and the Berda. The former lies to the west, and is bounded chiefly by the dominions of the Emperor of Austria ; the latter, lying to the east, reaches almost to the frontiers of Serbia, and is wholly bounded by Albania and Bos- nia. The valley of Bielopavlic,* through which the river Zeta flows, separates these two portions of the territory of the Prince of Montenegro. Montenegro proper is divided into four nakias or provinces :f Katunska, Tzrnitza, Bjetska, and Liechanska. Of these four provinces the first is of the chief * The district of Bielopavlic is so called from a certain Bielo-Paulo, * or Paul the White (white probably in the sense of handsome), who took refuge here soon after the battle of Kossova in 1389, and whose descendants still possess much of the land of this nahia. — Ubicini. t Nahia, an Arabic word adopted by the Turks for a POLITICAL DIVISIONS. 53 political importance, from its vicinity to Cattaro, its extent, and from its containing Cetinje, the capital of the United Principality, and Niegush, the hereditary home of the reigning family. This province has also fair claims to be regarded as the innermost citadel of Montenegrin independence. Its almost inaccessible gorges and sterile heights have furnished in past times a secure refuge when Turkish armies have overrun the rest of the country, and have even penetrated to Cetinje. Descending from the crags, which none but a veteran highlander could climb, the patriot bands of Montenegro have more than once compelled the Turkish commanders to withdraw from the plain around Cetinje, to abandon their hardly-won vantage ground, and to retreat with heavy loss into Albania. But though politically the province of Katunska is the most important of all those into which the Principality is divided, economically it is — consider- ing its size — of but small value. No river fertilises the fields of this nahia, and as a consequence it contains, in proportion to its extent, less soil capable of cultivation than any other of the provinces into canton or district, literally " a portion," or, as a French writer translates the word, " a department." Plei?iena, in the singular pleme, is a Serb name for an agglomeration of families of the same origin. 54 MONTENEGRO. which Montenegro is divided. The traveller to this country, whose route almost always lies across the nahia of Katunska, naturally forms a less favourable idea of the agricultural capabilities of the Principality than if he were to approach Cetinje by the valley of the Bjeka, or by crossing the moun- tains from Antivari. In this latter case his course would lie through the Tzrnitza, and though the grandeur of the scenery would, remind him that he was still in Montenegro, the quantity of land under cultivation, the white-gabled cottages, each peeping out of its separate croft and surrounded by an apple - garden fenced in by pomegranate and fig-trees and ringing with the joyous shouts of children, the bleating of sheep and goats, and the audible murmur of bees, would impress him far differently than the long sterile solitude which he had tra- versed under a scorching sun from the top of the pass over Cattaro until he reached the sandy waste which lies around Cetinje, a solitude only broken by the village of Niegush, but with scarcely a patch of fertile soil, and, except at one point, destitute of trees. But though the road from the Austrian fron- tier to the Montenegrin capital is stern, and the scanty soil gives austerity to the view, the valleys which lie off the road and under the shadow of the TOLITICAL DIVISIONS. 55 Lovchen mountain are fertile by nature, are pro- ductive by industry, and remind the traveller of some of the fairest parts of Switzerland, whilst they support as numerous and hardy a race of small peasant pro- prietors as are to be met with in that country. At the last census the province of Katunska contained nearly 64,000 inhabitants, almost a fourth of the whole population of Montenegro and the Berda. This nahia is subdivided into thirteen plemena (com- munes or tribes), each pleme being again divided into cela. There are one hundred and fifty-two of these cela in the whole thirteen plemena of the Katunska nahia. The other nahias are subdivided in the same way into plemena, and these further divided into cela. Thus the Tzrnitza nahia has seven plemena and seventeen cela; Ejetska five, with thirty cela ; and Liechanska three, with four- teen cela ; or in all twenty-eight communes in Mon- tenegro proper, and two hundred and thirteen cela * The Tzrnitza nahia possesses the richest soil of all the districts of Montenegro, and its neigh- bourhood to the Lake of Skodra, which forms part of * The numbers of the plemena vary in accounts of travellers, chiefly from the circumstance that Grahova and Joupan, the two districts added to Montenegro in 1858, are sometimes rendered apart; officially, however, they are portions of the Katunska nahia. 56 MONTENEGRO. its eastern boundary, together with its proximity to Budua and Antivari, give it a commercial import- ance which is not possessed by any other nahia. The poorest district as well as the smallest, the least defensible by natural advantages, and consequently the nahia most exposed to the hostile attacks of the Turks, is that of Liechanska, which extends from the Turkish fortress of Spouj to the neighbourhood of Jablac. Like Montenegro proper, the Berda is divided into four nahias : those of Bielopavlic, being further subdivided into three communes, Peperi into three, Moratska into three, and Yasojevichi into five, to which may now be added the Koutchi. This last, having joined Montenegro in 1835-6, took umbrage at the imposition of taxes in 1843, and separated in that year from Montenegro, returning, however, to its former allegiance at the commencement of the present war between Montenegro and the Porte.* The last-named nahia is Roman Catholic ; the other parts of Montenegro belong to the Orthodox " :: ' The Koutska nahia was originally independent of Montenegro, but, about 1835-36, the people put themselves under the authority of the Vladika, sent a senator to Tzetinie, and enjoyed the privileges of the other departments, until, taking umbrage at the imposition of taxes, they seceded in 1843 from their allegiance.' This nahia returned to their allegiance to the Prince of Montenegro at the beginning of the present war, and the refusal to give these people up to POLITICAL DIVISIONS. 57 Church, and acknowledge the authority of the Metropolitan, who has his seat at Cetinje. The nahias of the Berda are sometimes spoken of as the First, Second, Third, and Fourth Berda, and com- prise twenty-five plemena. The nahias of the Berda contain eighteen communes, or aggrega- tion of families, and one hundred and thirty-six cela. Each ndhia is governed by a sirdar and a voivode, their civil and military commanders. In like manner each pleme, or commune, has two chiefs, a kniez and a berakdar, or flag-bearer. Each pleme is again divided into cela (sing, celo), sometimes translated villages, but meaning really village terri- tories. Each of these cela has a judge or head man elected by the members of the celo.* Thus the pleme of Cetinje has seven cela, Niegush ten.f Each celo is further divided into koutcha, or houses, tenanted the Porte was one of the two points which led to the nego- ciations for peace between Turkey and Montenegro being broken off. * ' Le Tsernogore ne referme ni villes in forteresses, a peine a-t-il des villages, car ce qu'on appelle de ce nom au Tsernogore n'est que le terrain souvent tres- variable occupe par une confrerie (bratstvo), c'est-a-dire la reunion des differents menages composent une communaute dont tous les membres se regardent comme parents.' — Cypbien Eobert, t. i. p. 118. t See for all these details the Czrna Gora BeJjeshJce of the Archimandrite Douchich. Belgrade, 1874. 58 MONTENEGRO. by a family owning one head. These undivided families may consist, however, of several generations. Between those who say that, with some three or four exceptions, Montenegro possesses no villages, and those who reckon the number of the villages scattered throughout the country at some six or seven hundred, the difference is rather verbal than real. In the English use of the word there are very few villages, and no town, with the single exception of Rjeka. When the capital of the country, the seat of Government and the residence of the Prince and Archbishop, consists of about sixty houses, it is not to be expected that the villages will be populous. Except JSTiegush and Rjeka, most villages are too inconsiderable to deserve that name.* In no other country, at least in Europe, would three or four cottages, detached, but standing at a greater or less distance from each other, be called a village. In fact, the celo, or village, of Montenegro is a territorial division of the pleme, or tribe, and the celo is made up. of scattered houses, koutcha — that is, of families, more or less numerous, aggregated together. When, then, we read, according to a recent census, of 11,811 * ' The largest does not contain a population of 1,200 souls.' — Wilkinson, vol. i. p. 406. Delarue estimates that an average village should consist of thirty or forty houses, and contain about 170 inhabitants (Le Montenegro, p. 27). VILLAGES. 59 houses in the Principality,* we must remember that this does not mean cottages divided by a party- wall, but families owning obedience to one head, and pre- serving a family relationship, f and numbering, in some cases, as many as sixty or seventy men able to bear arms.J The small farmsteads and cottages throughout this country, whether standing alone or clustered near each other in villages, are built with reference to convenience in the culture of the land, rather than to safety, in accessible not inaccessible sites, principally in hollows and on the slopes of the mountains, none on the points of hills, as in the neighbouring provinces of Turkey. § This is in keeping with the self-dependent, fearless character of these mountaineers. The same fearlessness has led the Montenegrin peasants to build their cottages detached instead of seeking to cluster them together. This custom, coupled with the fact that almost every cottage, and indeed almost every monastery and church, is provided with loop-holes for defence against an invader, presents a singular admixture of consciousness to danger and of reliance on their own * Bid ' Societe de Geographic, April, I860. t Ubicini, Les Serbes de Turquie, pp. 148—150. 1 Travels in the Slavonic Provinces of Turkey, vol. ii. p. 330, 2nd edition. § Wilkixsox, vol. i. p. 407. 60 MONTEXEGRO. valour to repel hostile assaults. 'It is the know- ledge of his own power to protect his family and his home which makes the Montenegrin live with- out dread of his many neighbouring enemies. The rugged barriers of rocky mountains that surround his village are his sentinels to prevent a surprise ; and never did the Turks make an inroad upon Mon- tenegro, whether in large or small numbers, without paying dearly for the injuries they inflicted.' * Cetinje, the capital of Montenegro, may claim the distinction of being the smallest metropolis in the world. It stands in the midst of a sandy plain, about four thousand feet above the level of the sea, is shut in by precipitous rocks, and consists of little more than two streets, the longer one containing two or three poor inns and about sixty other houses, most of which rise to the dignity of one story, though scarcely any of them are better than those of a superior Highland village in Scotland. From this street a shorter one runs at right angles, containing the new residence of the Prince, f and opposite to it * Wilkinson, vol. i. p. 410. t ' I was struck with the good sense of the Prince who, reigning over a simple people of his own blood, is satisfied with a palace which does not even pretend to the privacy of a squire's mansion, but simply stands as the great house of an open village.'— Freeman. CETINJE. 61 the Government printing-office — the old half-Turkish house, built by Peter II., formerly occupied by the Yladika, and until recently tenanted by Prince Nicholas, but now chiefly used for a lodging for the sruests of the Prince — and a house or two of the ordinary European type, inhabited by the senators during their residence in Cetinje, one of which, distinguished by a balcony, is occupied by the Yice- President of the Senate. Thus much of the outside of the house. I shall best give an idea of the interior of a senatorial home in the capital of Montenegro by extracting from a letter, written immediately after a visit made by me to the Vice-President and to two of the other senators, a description of the apartment which I entered. ' On calling I was ushered up or at least walked up- stairs, which in two cases out of the three had no balustrades, into rooms which — I describe one — contained a bed, a chest of drawers, a table, a pier-glass, two cane-bottomed chairs, an arm-chair, a sofa, two painted trunks, and a German stove. The floor was partially covered with carpet. On the walls hung a picture of a saint with silver plating of the usual Byzantine or Kussian type, large photographs, an engraved portrait of the late Emperor Nicholas, a splendid sabre, two or three 62 MONTENEGRO. pistols, a rifle, and a dress or two of Montenegrin manufacture, in fact, the court dress of the host. The senator, who was in his shirt- sleeves, helped me to raki, his son brought me a glass of water and cut up a fragrant melon, whilst I examined his library, which consisted of Millet's Universal History trans- lated into Serbian, some religious works, and four or &ve collections of Montenegrin and other Serbian songs. There was no servant to be seen ; but then we were not waited upon by the women, as we should have been in Serbia. For this is a custom derived from the Turk, and as Montenegro has never been held by the Turks long enough to in- troduce the customs of the East, female attendance is found less often at least in Montenegro than in Serbia. I do not mean to be understood to imply that a Montenegrin woman does not wait on her husband's guests, but only that she does so far less frequently than women in the neighbouring pro- vinces.' * A few paces from the old palace stands, on an abrupt ascent, the monastery of Cetinje, containing within it the cathedral of the diocese, the parish church of Cetinje, and the chapel of the monastery, built by the Vladika Danilo (1697—1737) on the * Good Words, February, 1866. CETINJE. 63 ruins of a monastery founded in 1484 by Ivan Tzrnojivic, and partially destroyed in 1714. The small church, itself was restored or rebuilt by the late Prince Danilo and the Princess Darinka on the occasion of their marriage. The building is capable of holding about 150 persons.* It contains the coffin of the Yladika Peter I., who died in 1830, and also the tombs of Prince Danilo and his brother, the Grand Yoivode Mirko, father of the reigning Prince. The capitular, the parochial, and the monastic authorities are on a scale befitting the size of the capital, and consist of the Archbishop, the archimandrite of the convent, and one priest, who, in addition to being secretary to the Prince and Senate, was at the time of my visit, a few years since, also director of the * Dr. Neale thus describes this building : ' The church is Komanesque and very small. It consists of apse, two little transepts, and nave. The apse arch is plain First Pointed ; the nave is two bays, also First pointed. At the east end of the south transept lies the shrine of St. Peter : it is simply a bier with its hearse, over which a pall is thrown, there being no picture or other external symbol. The tower has a low pyramidal head. The facade of the monastery has three stages. The upper is a series of circular arches, supported on short circular piers, with square base and square cap ; the second, of the same arches with square shafts ; the third, of obtuse arches of contraction, rising out more than two feet from the ground. You enter the church at the right hand of this facade by a kind of vestibule additional to the south transept.' — Notet on Dalmatia, Croatia, fyc, p. 181. 64 MONTENEGRO. printing-press of the Principality. If I add that he was not only director of the press, but also com- positor, and occasionally pressman, that he compiled as well as printed the Cetinje Almanac, and wrote many of the poems which enliven its pages and adds to its popularity throughout Montenegro, I believe that I shall only assign to him some of his proper offices. Let not the reader smile ; this concentration of duties is in keeping with the economy which reigns throughout the Black Mountains; and both Prince and people are fortunate in the holder of so many offices, the exercise of which recalls the times when the printing-press of England was sheltered within the cloisters of Westminster. Near the Prince's residence is the new boarding-school for girls, esta- blished a few years since at the expense of Prince Nicholas, and opposite to it a large but cheerless inn, erected for the accommodation of travellers from a distance. Near this inn is the small post-office of the Principality, from whence letters go to all parts of the world.* In front of the old palace is a few yards of coarse grass shadowed by a carob-tree, under which the Prince dispenses justice, and idlers meet for * ' Montenegro was a member of the Postal Union some months before France ' — Freeman. CETINJE. 65 a gossip during the heat of the day. On a small patch of green adjoining lie some eight or nine pieces of artillery, of various sizes, the tro- phies of past wars with the Turks. A stone's throw from this, at the other end of the street, is a small triangular piece of ground, rising from which is a small oil-lamp, lighted on very dark nights. Here, under a plane-tree, round a well, which is opened twice a day for the supply of a stated quantity of water to the inhabitants, the tra- veller will find market women seated with baskets of eggs and vegetables for sale. The number of houses in 1858 was but sixteen, now it has upwards of sixty.* The entire population of the city is esti- mated at about six hundred residents, in addition to a small number of visitors, who at certain seasons of the year are attendant on the Senate, or may be waiting for the decision of the Prince in cases of appeal. The route of the traveller who crosses Montenegro, either from the west and across the heights above * Ubicini. ' The plain on which Cetinje is built forms an oblong, skirted by a little wood in the horizon. About the centre, but inclining towards the Cattaro side, some dozen white houses cluster around this fortified convent of the Vladikas, forming what in England would be called a small village or hamlet.' — A Tour to Dalmatia and, Monte- negro, by W. F. WnYGFiELD, 1853. F 66 MONTENEGRO. Cattaro, or from the plain of Albania at the south- east, lies through the two most important villages in the Principality. Should he be travelling from the west, an hour and a half s ride from the top of the pass over Cattaro will bring him to Niegush, the seat of the powerful family or clan of Petrovic, the birth-place of Prince Nicholas, who belongs to this family, and the sanctuary of Monte- negrin independence. This village was founded in the fifteenth century by refugees from the Herze- govina, who, under their Knes Petrovic, settled here, and gave to their new quarters the name of their native village. In 1697 one of the family, Daniel, or Danilo, became Yladika, since which time the ruler of Montenegro has been chosen or nominated from this family. This village, or rather cluster of seven villages, is scattered over a plain of about half a mile in extent.* As in the rest of the country, the chief care in build- ing is not to encroach on land fit for cultivation ; hence the houses are built on the rocky slope, and perched here and there, without regard to symmetry, * ' Neigouchi, mentione dans les livres et sur les cartes comme une des principales localites du Montenegro, designe, non point une ville ou un bourg, mais Tin pleme compose de sept villages dont aucun ne porte le nom de Neigouchi.' — Umcini, p. 150. NIEGUSH. 67 like grey blocks of stone scattered at random over a rocky plain. Formerly the houses, like those of the other villages throughout Montenegro, were thatched with straw or reeds, or were covered with wood shingles; these, however, are fast giving place to red tiles. Another improvement is visible in this village : the little cottages, with their one long room divided, and often imperfectly divided, between the family of the owner and the cattle which it pos- sesses, are being superseded by houses built with a story above the ground-floor, and with separate accommodation for man and beast. Most travellers who have passed through Montenegro from Cattaro have mentioned the little inn or restaurant at this place, which was their first waiting-place. It will probably in a few years be so improved as hardly to be recognised. At present it is extremely charac- teristic. It consists of four small rooms, all in front, and two on each story. In one of the upper rooms the kitchen is placed, the floor being made of slabs of stone, supported on a frame of beech timber. The hearth is simply a square hole of some two feet diameter, sunk about six inches below the rest of the floor. The smoke — so much of it, at least, as escapes at all — is expected to escape through the proper hole in the roof. The other room on this floor is the 68 MONTEXEGRO. sleeping apartment of the inn ; it holds three beds. One half of the building is the Niegush inn, the other half is the village shop, very much on the modest scale of a shop in a small neglected village in England. Each village of the cluster of villages which make up Niegush has its own humble church ; and by the roadside is a school-house, built of good hewn stone by the present Prince, and serving for the whole of Niegush. In front of the cottages are little irregular patches of garden ground, shaped as the rocky soil admits, and filled with the usual vegetables, potatoes, beans, melons of various kinds, radishes, cabbage, maize, capsicum, and horse-radish. The other large village which the traveller passes if his route be through Montenegro from the south- east, a village which rises, indeed, almost to the dignity of a town, and approaches nearer to the character of the Dalmatian towns on the Adriatic shore than any other cluster of houses in Monte- negro, stands near the Albanian frontier, and on the banks of the stream from which it has derived its own name, Rjeka. Built on the margin of the river, which sweeps in a semicircle at this spot, the houses rise to the unwonted height of two stories .above the ground floor. The town is laid out in RJEKA. 69 streets, and protected from inundation by an em- bankment with a parapet, built by Prince Danilo. A small bazaar and market-place, surrounded by a colonnade, lie behind the houses which face the river, near to which is a small house belonging to the Prince, and used by him as a hunting-box. Here most of the embroidery work for the dress of both sexes is executed ; and the handsome features of the women engaged in this feminine task show what, but for their hard toil in the fields, the women of Montenegro would be. This town is the chief market in the Principality for muslin, linen, cloth, and other articles of dress. On the Saturday, when the market is held, the town presents a gay and animated appear- ance. It is attended by purchasers not only from other parts of Montenegro, but by many from Pod- goritza and even Skodra. Ejeka has good and well- attended schools for boys and girls, and probably the best inn in the whole Principality. About three-quarters of a mile from the town, at Obod, is the small manufactory of firearms, main- tained by the Government. It is chiefly employed, however, in repairing and converting such rifles as have been purchased in Albania or captured from the Turks. Near this place may be seen some ruins, which are said to be those of the printing-house esta- 70 MONTENEGRO. blished here in the fifteenth century, but destroyed in one of the invasions of the Turks. At this town and in this printing-office the first book in the Slavonic language was printed, so that Ejeka is in this way the cradle of the literature of Russia, of Serbia, and of a large part of Austria. A copy of this book, the 1 Osmo Glasnik/ is in the library of Prince Nicho- las. It was printed in 7001 of the Greek era, corre- sponding to a.d. 1493. The river at this place is spanned by a bridge of three arches, built by Prince Danilo, which, having been destroyed by the Turks, was afterwards rebuilt by Prince Nicholas. The town labours under one disadvantage: the swamps near the river of the Ejeka render it unhealthy at certain times of the year. In addition to the villages or towns of Cetinje, Niegush, and Ejeka, the most important village in Montenegro is that of Vir-Bazar, at the mouth of the Tzrnitza river, and in the nahia of the same name. The most considerable and interesting relics of its old Eoman rulers which are found in Monte- negro are the remains of Dioclea, the birthplace of Diocletian, on the southern frontier of the Principality, and almost opposite the town of Podgoritza. This city was a place of considerable DIOCLEA. 71 importance, not only in classical times, but far down into the period of the Serbian monarchy. It commands the only road from Albania to Bosnia, and stands at the southern entrance of the valley of Bielopavlic. It was built at the junction of the Zeta with the Moratcha, on a site of an irregular triangular form, having the Zeta on the south-west and the Moratcha on the south-east, and a rivulet — the Siralija — on the north-west. To the north of the city is the old Roman cemetery, and to the east the burial-place of Rogame, still used by the Montenegrins. The great gate of the city is .on the north side ; the defences which remain along the whole extent of the ancient city consist of a massive wall, strength- ened at short intervals by square towers, the site being surrounded by a broad fosse on three sides. The two rivers which flow along the southern face of the city have eaten for themselves a course so far below the plain on which Dioclea stands that they add considerably to the strength of the forti- fications. From the time of its Roman builders down to the fourteenth century the name of this city repeatedly occurs in the annals of the Greek and Bulgarian wars. It was the seat, for a time, of 72 MONTENEGRO. an archbishop. In 1199 a synod was held here; and it is frequently mentioned as the residence of one or another of the ancient kings of Serbia. At present it consists of ruins only and of half-a-dozen cottages standing in the midst of vineyards and maize-grounds, which occupy the site of the imperial palace and the spacious basilica. Inscriptions and fragments of marble walls are found in great plenty, and some beautiful sculptured stones in a vault be- low the surface indicate the place of burial of the notabilities of the city. The bulk, however, of the marble which once covered the walls of the imperial residence has gone to the neighbouring cemetery. Here may be seen fragments of fluted columns cut into the requisite size and laid as tombstones. The covers and the bottoms of ancient stone coffins have been taken for the same purpose. Fine fragments of marble friezes, pagan altars, and in one place a magnificently carved console, serve the same pur- pose. The church round which the cemetery was first formed has for ages been in ruins ; the church- yard, however, remains a favourite place for the burial of the villagers in the neighbourhood. These ruins of a city once famous are almost wholly unknown to travellers, but are deserving of a careful examination. Coins, medals, terra OSTROG. 73 cotta seals, intaglios, and other antiquities are often dug up in and around the ruins, but it is evident that still much remains underground. Prince Nicholas has a small collection of Roman imperial coins of silver which have mostly been found here. Leaving the gates of this city the road runs northward along the narrow pass through which the river Zeta flows, and across a fine bridge of Roman or early Serbian work. Another bridge — the Hadzin Most, or pilgrim's bridge — which spans an arm of this river is a remarkable struc- ture of one arch, and rises at so acute an angle that it is more usual for passengers to scramble across the bed of the stream than to pass over the bridge. Soon after crossing this bridge the traveller will begin to ascend the heights, near the top of which the monastery of Ostrog is situated. The monastery of Lower Ostrog — for there is a Higher and Lower Ostrog — is perched on a small plateau formed by the fall of a portion of the mountain behind it. Two or three immense boul- ders, resembling the bastions of a regular fortifica- tion, lie in front of the monastic buildings, and shut out the sight of them from below. There, wedged between two of these boulders, one of which has 74 MONTENEGRO. been converted into a small garden, and the earth which has accumulated in the crevices on its top planted with kitchen vegetables, stands the little church dedicated to the Holy Trinity, rebuilt in 1840, after being partially destroyed by the Turks. The apartments of the monks lie on the one side of this church, and on the other are the storehouse and rooms for the monastic servants. At some dis- tance from the monastic buildings the present Prince has lately erected a long suite of rooms for the use of the pilgrims who on Trinity Sunday come in great numbers to Ostrog. Outside the gate of the monas- tery is another church — that of St. George — built in 1799 ; this, however, is seldom used ; it seems to be the parochial church of the district, as distin- guished from the monastic one. Ostrog the higher is reached by a series of step- ping-stones only affording room for one person to pass at the same time ; it is scooped out of the face of a precipitous rock about two hundred feet below its summit. It is a hermitage rather than a monastery, except that the monk who inhabits it solaces himself by descending at times to enjoy the company of his brethren below. In the narrow dingy cell are a few Slavonic manuscripts and some early printed books from the press at Keiff. The LITTLE OSTROG. ib small and singular chapel, in which the services of the Orthodox Church are sung daily, is a cavern in the live rock, with a lean-to roof of wooden slabs, under which it is just possible to stand up- right. Its shape is as singular as everything else in the hermitage. The altar, placed on a natural shelf in the rock, stands north-east. Adjoining the chapel is the powder magazine belonging to the district. A spring gushing from the rock in this out-of-the-way place aifords an unfailing supply of water. Near is a little garden of herbs, which is only accessible from the hermitage. A loopholed wall, two or three rifles, besides piles of stones, con- veniently placed for hurling on the head of any intruder, make the place impregnable, whilst the garden and spring of water save it from many of the privations of a blockade. It is said never to have been entered by the Turks except for a short time during the war of 1862-3.* On that occasion the Grand Voivode Mirko held * Upwards of a hundred years ago Upper Ostrog ■ was besieged by thirty thousand Turks for several months, when every effort was made to set fire to and destroy the fortress by lighted brands, and stones hurled from above ; but all glanced off into the depth below, and though defended only by thirty men, the enemy was obliged to retire with immense loss. The Turks had laid waste everything in the neigh- bourhood with fire and sword; they had burnt the lower 76 MONTENEGRO. this post with twenty- six men, and for eight days such cannon as the Turkish army had been able to drag to this point played from the heights opposite upon the living walls of this monastic fortress, but without making much impression upon the rock. Three or four assaults were easily repelled, with great loss to the assailants ; and when provisions failed him Mirko withdrew with the loss of only one man, and reached Cetinje without molestation, in the face of thousands of hostile troops, who entered the hermitage only after the last of its defenders had retired. The chapel of Upper Ostrog was hollowed out — I can hardly say built — by St. Basil, to whose memory it is dedicated, and was re-edified in 1774. His body, enclosed in a coffin, rests in the little choir of this miniature chapel. This St. Basil is not either of the theologians of that name, but a less distinguished local saint, formerly Metropolitan of the Herzegovina, who, tired out by the persecution of the Turks, took shelter in Montenegro some- convent, which had already been destroyed nine times before, and they had advanced to a ledge of rocks a short distance to the south of the convent, when, stopped by an impassable precipice, they were all picked off by those within ; and this last effort was the signal for the retreat.' — Wilkinson, vol. vi. p. 543. LITTLE OSTROG. 77 where in the seventeenth century, and made this almost inaccessible spot his retreat. Here he died, and the little chapel or hermitage-monastery of Upper Ostrog was scooped out and consecrated to his memory soon after. His shrine, and indeed the two monasteries of Upper and Lower Ostrog, are held in such veneration that it is said that some- times as many as twenty thousand pilgrims climb the heights and visit the churches there. These come from Bosnia, Albania, and the Herzegovina, as well as from all parts of Montenegro, and their great happiness is to be able to carry off little chippings of the rock for amulets. It is singular that the veneration for St. Basil is by no means confined to the Christians. The Bosnian Mahom- medans esteem his shrine quite as highly as their Christian neighbours, and come in sickness and distress to pray before the coffin of the saint, and to entreat the prayers of St. Basil for themselves, their family, or friends. The tenacity with which the Bosnians, who were compelled to embrace Ma- hommedanism, cling to these and other observances of their old creed distinguish them from the rest of the worshippers of the false prophet. The annual offerings of the pilgrims are the chief source of revenue to these two monasteries, but in addition 78 MONTENEGRO. to these they possess some landed property in the neighbourhood of Dioclea, which is let out to tenants who return one-third of the produce by way of rent. A school has been built by Prince Nicholas near this monastery for the use of the sur- rounding Tillages. CHAPTER Y. POPULATION — MILITARY FORCES — TACTICS. It is not easy to arrive at any satisfactory conclu- sion as to the population of Montenegro in past times, nor consequently to estimate with precision the rate of its increase. The estimates made by travellers in their transit across the Principality are generally vague and almost worthless, whilst the alterations of the frontier-line of Montenegro at different periods of its history diminishes the value even of these vague estimates. In the seventeenth century (1614) Mariano Bolizza, a Venetian nobleman residing at Cattaro, in his 'Relatione/ computed that Montenegro con- tained 90 villages, 3,524 houses or families, and 8,027 fighting-men * In 1800, according to M. Cyprien Robert, the population of Montenegro, with * ' Montenegro e constituta da novanta villagi, che fanno case tre mille cinqnecento vintiquattro, puo far gente armata da combatter otto mille vinti sette, fra quali vi possono esser mille archebuggieri ; il resto epada, targa e giavarina.' 80 MOXTENEGRO. the recent addition of the Berda, only reached about 50,000 — an estimate confirmed by the researches of Colonel Vialla. The same writer states that, according to the census of 1812, the popula- tion was 53,168, and the number of men bearing arms and available in time of war to be 13,292. In 1825 the population had increased to 75,000, and the military array to 15,000 ; and fifteen years later, in 1835, the population was believed to be 100,000. In 1846 it was estimated that the numbers of the Montenegrins had reached 11,700 families, with a military strength of 20,000 combatants, and a presumed total of 120,000 individuals; and about twenty years later, in 1864, the official return, according to the Cetinje Almanac of that date, gives 196,238 as the number of people belonging to the Principality.* Supposing the estimate made in 1800 to be correct, the population has doubled itself twice during the present century, that is to say, * Of these 99,889 were males and 96,349 females. These were thus distributed : — Katunska Nahia .... 63,738 Ejetska Nahia Tzrnitza Nahia . Liechanska Nahia The four Berda . Giving a total of 26,097 28,269 15,367 62,767 196,238 (The Oorlitza. Cetinje, 1865.) POPULATION. 81 once in about thirty years— a much higher rate of increase than that of any of the adjoining Christian provinces of Turkey.* As the sterility of the rocky soil and the absence of any outlets for their industry prevent an increas- ing population from finding scope for their energies in their own country, or even permit of their finding the means of subsistence, a large number are yearly compelled to emigrate to various surrounding countries ; and the gardens on the Bosphorus, the vegetable markets of Constantinople and of the towns of Asia Minor, are supplied by Monte- negrin gardeners — who, however, are enrolled on the books of the Principality, and return to their respective villages at fixed intervals, to be exercised and mustered with the effective strength of the community. f In time of war, as at present, these- * The births in 1864 were 6,577 ; the deaths, 3,93S (Ubicini). I am unable to supply later figures. In answer to my inquiries for such information I received from Cetinje,. while these pages were passing through the press, the characteristic reply : * As to the statistics you require, I am sorry to be quite unable to satisfy you. The events of the late years have given so much to do to everybody on urgent every-day business, that no time was left to the very few officials who havo all the work to do themselves to compile statistics.' t As Montenegro at the best of times barely furnishes food for its people, an unfavourable harvest causes famine, starva- 82 MONTENEGRO. men throw up their occupations abroad and flock hack to their native country. These men and their families are no doubt included in the census returns of Montenegro together with the stated inhabitants. At present the Montenegrins may be safely estimated to number about 220,000. The proportion of men, able, ready, and expected to bear arms in case of war — for these terms are converti- ble — is higher in Montenegro than in other countries. Age claims no exemption, and familiarity with arms from, and indeed in, the cradle, makes its sons available at a far earlier age than elsewhere. In the war with Turkey in 1862 * corpses of children under fourteen years of age were frequently reported as found among the slain.' * The present captain of Megush, Juro Petrovic, narrowly escaped with his life from a battle-field at the age of twelve, and a recent writer relates that on the occasion, a few years ago, of a review at Cetinje, Prince Nicholas, remark- ing a young man terribly scarred, asked him how he had met with his accident, on which the soldier tion, and those diseases which, follow upon insufficient food. To this Colonel Vialla attributes in great measure the slow increase of the population during the last century {Voyage Historique, t. i. p. 88). * Travels in the Slavonic Provinces of Turkey, by Misses Ieby and Mum Mackenzie, vol. ii. p. 199, 2nd edition. MILITARY SERVICE. 83 replied, * I was wounded in the war under Mirko/ ' How old/ said the Prince, ' could you have been ? you are scarce a man yet/ ' I was thirteen,' said the young hero quietly.* So predominant are the ideas of military service, so certain the necessity of being called upon to take up arms in defence of his country, that at his baptism the butt of a pistol is put to the child's mouth for him to kiss, and the pistol itself placed in his cradle as naturally as with us a coral is given to an infant for a plaything. Boys of six or seven years old are indulged with a dagger, and at ten may be seen strutting about with a rifle suitable to their age. One favourite toast at the baptism of a boy is, ' May he not die in his bed ; ' and no taunt goes home so surely to a Montenegrin's heart as this, ' Your fore- fathers all died in their beds.' f Nor is the obligation of military service confined to the laity. So far from holy orders hindering any one from rendering active service in the field, in many districts the village pastor, who leads the devotions of his people in peace, approves himself an able captain * Le Montenegro Contemporain, p. 132. f VlALLA DE SOMMIEKES, Voyage Historique, &c, t. i. p. 102. Researches on the Danube and the Adriatic, by A. A. Paton, vol. i. p. 180. Tares et Montini 'grins, par F. Lenormaxt p. xvi. 84 MONTENEGRO. in times of danger. Like the rest of the Montene- grins, the priests carry arms, and 'are generally good " heroes," the first at a gathering, the leaders of their flocks in war.' The instinct of self-preserva- tion, and the half-religious character of their wars with the Turks — for all the wars of the Montenegrins hitherto have been defensive — excuse or even make a virtue of what would be regarded as an impro- priety in other civilised communities. Indeed, until the separation of the ecclesiastical and civil functions of the ruler, the Prince-Bishop, like many of the German and even some English bishops in the Middle Ages, led his subjects into the field ; and the last two predecessors of Prince Danilo were men who had earned the respect of their people, not only by their administrative ability in Church and State, but also for their physical powers and martial skill. In fact, Montenegro is an armed camp, even more than a nation in which a division of duties and labour can be recognised — a camp girded by the almost inaccessible rampart which nature has thrown up in front of the Albanian plain, and manned by soldiers accustomed to confront danger from infancy, and to regard death in the battle-field as their special privilege and glory.* For if 36,000 men, or more * 'A part quelques couvents, dont ils ont pris a tache de MILITARY SERVICE. 85 than one- fourth of the male population, can be depended upon to obey the summons of their Prince to arms, a larger number even than this would, not need to be called upon but would, hasten unbidden to hurl back invasions from their mountain homes. Even this number of men, however, by no means represents the armed force which would resist the advance of a Turkish army, and guard the rugged defiles which open upon their plains.* Feeble old -age vindicates its right to share in the fray, and even cripples at such times compel their neighbours to carry them to the post of danger, so that from the rocks they may fire upon the invaders.f But not only men, the girls and women, who, to say the least, share with their brothers and husbands in batir solidement les murs, on ne decouvrirait pas dans leur principaute un travail de fortification. La nature a ete gra- tuitement elle-meme leur Vauban. La nature leur a fait un cercle de remparts, une enceinte continue qui n'exigent aucuns frais de reparation.' — Marmier, t. ii. p. 105. * The ordinary proportion of males in a population be- tween the ages of seventeen and sixty is estimated at 7-2oth of the whole. t Lenormant. ' During the war with the Turks in 1796, Giuro Lottocich was confined to his bed by a broken leg, but hearing of the battle, in which Kara Mahmoud (Bush- ullia) was defeated and slain, he insisted upon being carried out to a rock, from whence he could fire on the enemy, which, in spite of every remonstrance, he continued to do, supported against a rock, for three whole hours ; and when 86 MONTENEGRO. the labours of agriculture, claim also the right to share with them the toils and dangers of war ; and whilst the past history of this people abound in instances of female heroism, the national songs which have had so large a share in moulding the Montenegrin character, have preserved the memory, and hold up to imitation the deeds of the wife who has not only hurried to and fro with food for her husband engaged in the thick of the fight, but has stood by his side through the long day of conflict, has loaded his rifle, has borne his banner in the field, and has even aided him, with sword in hand, in defending their common country.* 'Pity she is not a boy, she would be a second Mirko/ was a remark often made in admiration of the sister of Prince Nicholas, they told him of the victory, he exclaimed, "It is time, indeed, for I have no more cartridges, and I should have died of rage if I had been forced to surrender." ' — Wilkin- son, vol. i. p. 408. * ' Le chiffre que nous avons indique n'est que celui des. combattants toujours prets a entrer en campagne, eta porter, si les circonstances y sont favorables, la guerre sur le terri- toire ennemi ; mais qu'un danger serieux menace le pays, qu'une armee turque s'avance pour le reduire, la premiere balle qui frappera les rochers de Tsernogore en fera sortir de tous cotes des bras et des carbines; femmes, vieillards, enfants, soutiendront les hommes faits la defense nationale. Au lieu de 35,000 guerriers, la montagne noire en comptera ce jour-la 100,000.' — Lenormant. FEMALE WARRIORS. 87 who, whenever her father would suffer it, followed him to the war. 'The finest story of a fair warrior in Montenegro was told us by one of her fellow combatants, who seemed truly proud of his countrywoman. Her husband was a standard-bearer. He fell in battle, and was succeeded in office by the eldest of his grown-up sons. That son fell, and was followed by a second, and he in turn by a third. The woman's fourth and last son was still a child, so she shouldered the banner herself, saying, " I will bear it till my son be grown. "'* "Whilst, however, the military force of Monte- negro is in this way out of all proportion to the number of its inhabitants, its army, in the technical term of the word, can hardly be said to have any existence, or at least is the smallest in the world. Up to the year 1853 the army of Montenegro was only the armed array of the inhabitants, self-dis- ciplined, and kept in a continual state of eflficienc}'- by the incessant wars on the frontier. A hundred men (perianiks), chosen from the various districts of Montenegro, acted, as they still act, as guards to the Prince and as messengers to the court. About * Travels m the Slavonic Provinces of Turkey, vol. ii. p. 200, 2nd edition. 88 MONTENEGRO. four hundred others {pandours) are charged with the preservation of the peace within the various divisions of the country, and act as police officers. These receive a small, almost nominal, pay, and gain their livelihood, as almost every one else in the Principality, by tilling their rood or bit of land. The age when military service is expected is fixed at seventeen; though, as I have already shown, it practically commences much earlier : it extends legally to fifty, but in fact it is limited only by ex- treme old age and decrepitude. None of the soldiers receive pay unless those selected as the Prince's guards or as pandours; these have a small, almost nominal, pay. When called out for active service all provide their own provisions. When their services are required by actual or prospective hostilities, with the summons to the field is indicated the probable duration of the expedition to which they are summoned, so that they may be able to bring with them the requisite quantity of food. The contingent of each nahia is commanded by its own voivode. The soldiers of each pleme have their own capetan, under whom are the stotinalch, a centurion commanding fifty houses, or, estimating two soldiers to each house, a body of one hundred men, and subordinate to these a MILITARY ORGANIZATION. 89 number of decurions (decetcharj), each commanding- five houses or ten men. Each tribe has its own banner. The standard of Montenegro is tricoloured, as the French, but ranged in horizontal bands. These, according to the Montenegrins represent faith (blue), hope (white), and charity (red).* The ancient arms of the Principality are the double- headed eagle of Byzantium, with a lion passant on a kind of escutcheon of pretence. These arms, stamped on a medal with the significant motto of Viera znoboda za hrabrost (' Faith and freedom the reward of valour '), are given by the Prince to those who distinguish themselves in battle with the Turk. The captains and standard-bearers of the various districts have the whole charge of the military array of their respective territories, and the zeal and training of the people supply all deficiencies. Upwards of 10,000 men can be assembled at any point of the frontier within twelve hours of the first intimation of danger, and twenty-four hours are sufficient to concentrate almost the whole male population above the age of fourteen. These are all active skirmishers, efficient marksmen, and ex- cellently suited for such irregular warfare as their country alone admits of. Being inured to hardships * Lenormant. 90 MONTENEGRO. and privations, they perform, without fatigue and in high spirits, very long and forced marches. They leap over wide ditches, supporting themselves on their long rifles, and pass over precipices where bridges would be absolutely requisite for any other kind of troops, and they climb the steepest rocks with the greatest facility; they also bear, with the utmost patience, hunger, thirst, and every kind of privation. When the enemy is defeated and retiring, they pursue him with such rapidity that they supply the want of cavalry, which it is impos- sible to employ in their mountainous country.* The commissariat of these troops is of the simplest description, being a small loaf of bread, a cheese, some garlic, a little brandy. An old garment and two pairs of sandals made of raw hide form all the equipment of the Montenegrins. On their march they disdain to seek any shelter from rain or cold. In rainy weather the Montenegrin wraps around his head, or more frequently round his rifle, the strooka,f or shawl of coarse cloth, lies down on the ground, and, putting his rifle under him, sleeps comfortably. Three or four hours of repose are quite sufficient for * M. Broniewski in Count V. Krasinski's Montenegro and the Slavonians of Turkey. f Marmier. MILITARY TACTICS. 91 his rest, and the remainder of his time is occupied in constant exertion. In accordance with their usual tactics, if in great force they conceal themselves in ravines, sending out a small number of marksmen, who, by retreating, lead the enemy into the ambus- cade. When they have surrounded their foes, on the slightest appearance of disorder in their ranks, they throw aside their rifles, and rush to the attack with their handgars, and rely upon their personal strength and individual bravery, in which they have almost always the advantage of their enemies. When their numbers are too small to justify their advanc- ing in the open field, they seize positions amid inac- cessible rocks, and harass their foes with a deadly fire, which they are unable to return with any effect. A hole, a stone, or the trunk of a tree offers them a cover from their enemy. As they usually fire in a prostrate position, they are seldom hit in these encounters, whilst their rapid and sure shots^ carry destruction into the ranks of the enemy. Their history is full of well-attested but almost incredible exploits done in these conflicts. It is of frequent occurrence that whilst their own number may not have reached a tenth of their opponents, the number of these opponents which they have left dead on the field have exceeded that of the whole number of 92 MONTENEGRO. Montenegrin combatants. These levies resemble, in short, the Highlanders of a century ago, and their military array and accoutrements carry us back to the days of Prince Charles Edward and to the bands which fought under his standard at Prestons-pans and Culloden. CHAPTER VI. PRESENT MILITARY ORGANIZATION. In the previous chapter we have seen what the mili- tary characteristics of these people are. To these rather than to any scientific organization they have owed the preservation of their independence in past times. So long as the Turkish armies were drilled after the ancient rules of military tactics, and were armed with the old-fashioned weapons in use during the European war which closed in 1815, individual courage sufficed the Montenegrins without any great amount of military discipline or organization. "With the change of tactics and with the introduc- tion of new arms it was evident, however, that Montenegro would have to modify its old military system, and to furnish its soldiery with improved weapons of war. The accession of Danilo, in 1851, the first secular prince since the beginning of the sixteenth century, was signalised not only by a new 94 MONTENEGRO. code of civil laws for the Principality, but also with the commencement of a reform of its military forces. Attention was now directed to military science, of which hitherto there had been but little account in Montenegro, and the beneficial results were evident in the war of 1853. In 1862, however, before any considerable step could be taken in this direction, the Montenegrin forces, untaught to act in large bodies, and armed with the old muzzle - loading rifle, were called upon to encounter troops disciplined after the most approved modern system of tactics, led by a renegade Serb from Austria, and armed with wea- pons of precision. These were advantages on the side of the Turks which no courage on the part of the Montenegrins could overcome. The losses of the Montenegrins, accordingly, were greater in this war than at any previous time. It was evident, if their cherished independence was much longer to be a possession, science must come to the aid of courage. The people were quick to learn the lesson, and had a prince who knew how to put it to a practical use. Prince Danilo and his brother, the Grand Voivode Mirko, had already directed their attention to the systematic organization of the armed array of the country. Little, however, had been done to supply NEW MILITARY ARRAY. 95 the army with new and efficient weapons at the time of the death of Danilo. Indeed the great European powers had hardly done more than com- mence this work, and had not come to any decision as to the best weapon for their troops. The cam- paign, however, of 1862 satisfied the present Prince, who found himself the inheritor of a war with veteran Turkish troops drilled by English officers, and fresh from the campaign in the Crimea, that it was neces- sary to improve the military organization of the Principality.* As soon as peace was established, the task of arming the nation with new weapons was seriously undertaken. To procure a sufficient quantity of such arms entailed an expense which it seemed, at first, that Montenegro could not bear. Patriotism and energy, however, furnished the means. With the consent of the Imperial Government of France, a lottery was established in Paris, and the proceeds, augmented by a gift of money from the Emperor Napoleon, were devoted to the purchase of twelve thousand Minie rifles, and these, as soon as they reached Cetinje, * Among more substantial fruit of the victory at Grahova, in 1858, was a quantity of medals given by the English Government to the men of the Turkish contingent for bravery in the Crimean campaign. These medals aro now at Cetinje. 96 MONTENEGRO. were served out to the most active soldiers and best marksmen. To the sum thus obtained was added a seasonable gift from Prince Michel of Serbia, and a donation of about £1,500 made by a patriotic Serb, and these together were devoted to the pur- chase of five hundred rifles, five hundred swords, and paper for a million of cartridges for the new rifles. As the geographical position of Montenegro allowed Austria to prevent at any time the intro- duction of arms into the country, and the power of doing so was often exercised by the Imperial Govern- ment, and always at a time when such arms were most needed, it was necessary that the means of manu- facturing and repairing firearms should exist in Montenegro itself, and that workmen should be taught how to convert the old weapons, taken from time to time from the Turks or purchased in Albania, into modern firearms, as well as how to manufacture rifles of an improved pattern, and how to make the cartridges necessary for such new rifles Hitherto this had been done to so small an extent at the little arsenal near Bjeka, as to make the Montenegrins almost wholly dependent upon a foreign supply. To meet this necessity Prince Michel of Serbia sent, in 1866, a skilful workman from Belgrade, under whose superintendence the old armoury at Obod ARSENAL. 97 was brought to a state of efficiency, and a number of Montenegrins instructed bow to convert the old muzzle-loading weapons into breecb-loading rifles. At the request of Prince Nicholas, the help thus afforded by the Prince of Serbia was supplemented by the arrival of three artillerists, who commenced a foundry for cannon near Cetinje. In this little arsenal is stored up a reserve of arms, of powder, and of the munitions of war. A manufactory for the making of cartridges for the new rifles was next established at the extremity of the plain in which Cetinje stands. This has succeeded so well, that when the present war commenced the storehouses contained a stock sufficient to allow of four hundred cartridges being served out to each man under arms. In addition to the artillery officers and instructors furnished by Prince Michel from Belgrade, a trum- peter was sent in order to teach the Montenegrin troops the various signals employed in the Serbian army, and to enable them to communicate at a greater distance than before. Hitherto their only means had been the human voice. In 1869 two thousand needle-guns were added to the stock of warlike materials. As soon as these expensive works were achieved, in 1870, the scientific organization of the Montene- H 98 MONTENEGRO. grin peasantry was undertaken. At present the army is thus organized and equipped. The military array of Montenegro, the men be- tween the ages of seventeen and sixty, consists of two divisions, each of which contains 10,000 men, sup- ported by a battery of mountain artillery. Each divi- sion is divided into two brigades, each brigade being composed of five battalions, four of which are armed with the Minie rifle, and the remaining battalion of picked marksmen with the needle-gun. Every bat- talion is composed of eight companies, the battalion being commanded by a major and the various com- panies by a captain. Every company consists of ninety men rank and file, ten corporals, a trum- peter, an ensign, two subalterns, and the captain. Thus the company is of the strength of 105 men, while the whole battalion contains 842 men. The army is thus armed : 12,000 men are sup- plied with the Minie" rifles, rather more than 3,000 have the needle-gun, about 1,000 men have old rifles converted into breechloaders, and the re- mainder are still armed with the old Albanian rifle, which is loaded at the muzzle. The moun- tain artillery attached to each brigade is regulated after the Swiss model, and consists of four guns, served by forty-eight men, with three officers. The MILITARY STAFF. 99 various nahias are called upon to furnish battalions in proportion to the number of their population. The strength of these battalions are equal to most ordinary regiments. They can seldom, however, act in a body. The nature of the ground in most parts of Montenegro would prevent this. This gives to the companies which compose the battalions a greater degree of independent action, and makes them of greater importance. The staff of the army consists of the Prince, who is the commander-in-chief. He is assisted in this command by a chief of the staff and by a certain number of aides-de-camp. Each of the divisions of the army is under the charge of a voivode as general of division, and under him are two voivodes as gene- rals of brigades. All these officers are appointed by the Prince. The selection of the officers of a lower grade rests with these general officers. The Prince supplies to the soldier the rifle which he uses in action and such cartridges as he may require. He gives nothing more. No Montenegrin receives pay for his services in the field. The soldiers are summoned to fight for their homes and their common country, and this it is their duty to do as much as it is that of the Prince.* They have no * The captain receives a gratuity of about four pounds a 100 MONTENEGRO. special uniform beyond the distinctive national dress which all wear. They move without ambulances. They are not hampered with tents. They need no baggage waggons since they have no baggage. There is no commissariat required to supply them with food, nor has any one the duty assigned to him of serving them with ammunition. Their war being one of defence, they are always within reach of their homes ; and just as with us the wife or child brings to the harvest field the food which the reapers require, so day by day the wife [seeks her husband on the battle-field, and supplies him with the food which she has prepared for him, or brings to him from the public stores the powder which, he requires. If the course of the war carries him beyond the fron- tier of Montenegro, a little maize bread, washed down by water from the running stream, satisfies the wants of the soldier until he is again within reach of home. No arrangements can be more simple. A "War Office clerk would despair in such an absence of all commissariat provisions. Yet these arrangements have enabled the Montenegrin pea- sant soldier to check the advance of the most dis- year. This small sum is not given as a payment for services but in order to meet certain expenses to which they are sub- jected in the fulfilment of their military duties. INFANTRY. 101 ciplined armies, and effectually to guard the inde- pendence of his country. As all their wars have strictly been wars of defence, and as no campaign beyond the bounds of their own rugged homes has been contemplated, they have not employed cavalry for some three hun- dred years or more, that is since they lost possession of the plain which stretches from the banks of the Moratcha to the southern shore of the Lake Skodra. Cavalry could not act in Montenegro and hardly in the Berda, and even if it were possible for such an arm of the military service to be of use, few of these soldiers could maintain a horse. Twenty pounds a year is beyond the means of all save a few of the large landowners ; and their estates, as I have already men- tioned, are not large enough to enable them to spend so much money uselessly. The Montenegrin army therfore consists entirely of infantry and artillery. They have no fortresses to defend. No semblance of blockhouse or fortification of the humblest descrip- tion exists in Montenegro. Their whole country is one natural fortress — they need no other.* The organization of the Montenegrin army aims at • For the details of the now military organisation of Montenegro I am chiefly indebted to the authors of Le ilontenegro Contemporain. 102 MONTENEGRO. obtaining the advantage of discipline and the power of combined action without fettering too much the individual action of the soldier. On this indivi- duality the ultimate reliance is still placed. The new discipline is but supplementary to the long-tried tactics which have proved so effective in their mountain warfare of four centuries. Nor, again, does the enrolment of the able-bodied men in two divisions in any way exclude the very effi- cient help which in a conflict amid the rocks] of their homes, old men, boys, and women yet still hasten to give.* * 'Ce qui caracterise surtout le Montenegrin comme guerrier, et ce qui lui conserve sa superiorite sur toute'espece de soldats europeens, c'est le sentiment de son individuality, l'orgueil de cette independance meme avec laquelle il accom- plit les actes de bravoure les plus andacieux et quelquefois meme les plus inconsideres. Le gouvernement ne devra done point, en exagerant sa tendance actuelle, chercher a substi- tuer completement Taction du commandement a l'initiative particuliere.' — Le Montenegro Contemporain, p. 452. CHAPTER VII. PHYSICAL CHARACTERS LONGEVITY DRESS COTTAGES HOME LIFE. Their life, passed in the pure mountain air, the necessity of being always under arms, and always, therefore, in activity, together with the frugality of their homes, save the Montenegrins from many of the diseases of our more artificial civilisa- tion. They possess in general robust health, the aid of the physician and the surgeon is rarely required, since in no country are gun-shot and sabre wounds so speedily healed as among these mountains. Instances of greatly prolonged life are common among the peasantry. Colonel Yialla de Sommieres * mentions a family he saw in the village of Schieclic, near Niegush, which included in its living members six generations. Its aged patriarch was one hundred and seventeen years old, his son was one hundred, * Voyage Tlitftoriqvc et Politique au Montenegro, t. i. p. 123. 104 MONTENEGRO. his grandson eighty-two, and his great-grandson sixty years old; the son of this great-grandson was forty -three years old ; he had a son aged twenty- one, who was the father of a two-years- old child. These descendants down to the great-great-grand- children inhabited the same house as the father of their great-great-grandfather. This would be more incredible were it not for the fact that the Monte- grins generally marry very early. This instance of longevity is, however, in keeping with the reputa- tion for long life which was enjoyed by the people of these countries in old time.* The acuteness of their hearing rivals that of the North American Indians, and the quickness of their eye enables them to see at immense distances, and to adjust their rifles without artificial aid. Short- sightedness is almost unknown among these mountaineers. f Intermittent fevers, especially in the neighbourhood of Bjeka, rheumatism, scrofula, and dysentery in one form or another, are the chief maladies of the country, and among females, but more rarely, cases of consumption occur. In 1867 Montenegro was visited with a very severe attack * Pliny, vii. 48. Wilkinson, vol. i., p. 419. t Le Montenegro Contemporain, p. 130. PHYSICAL CHARACTERISTICS. 105 of cholera, which carried off a large number of the inhabitants. In stature the men are athletic, and well-propor- tioned, though many of them, especially in the dis- tricts of Tzrnitza and Bielopavlic, are unusually tall ; their mien is warlike, and their tread firm, like that of mountaineers in general. A recent ruler of Montenegro was six feet eight inches in height, and instances of men who reach six feet six inches are far from uncommon. Their frame is sinewy and lithe. Their eyes are large and strikingly intelligent and animated, though without the fierce expression of the Turks.* Their nose is short and moderately aquiline or straight ; their mouth and chin are firmly moulded ; their forehead is somewhat square ; and whilst most of them wear the moustache, all except their clergy shave their beards. Their complexion, from exposure, is usually of a sun-burnt red, and their hair mostly brown. Intermingled, however, with people of this Serb type are those who have features of a more clas sical character, and some writers have seen in these the remains of the Greek and Roman colonies which were displaced by the first Slav immigrants. * Sir Gardner Wilkinson, vol. i. p. 481. Travels in South Slavonic Countries, vol. ii. p. 222. 106 MONTENEGRO. The women are scarcely of middle height, thick- set, with fair but weather-beaten complexions, and generally with harsh features, the result of early toil, which robs them of the beauty of early life. Those of the Berda are usually blonde, whilst those of Montenegro proper are distinguished for their black hair and dark complexion. In manners, both men and women have a natural unembarrassed air, and all travellers agree in praising their intel- ligence. Their food is as simple as their mode of living is hardy and primitive, and to this the general good health of these mountaineers must be attributed. Their usual food consists of coarse unleavened bread made of Indian corn, polenta, cheese, milk, and vege- tables. Meat and fish are rarely eaten, except on great occasions, and poultry seldom appears on the table, except when the visit of a stranger calls them to exert their hospitality. They are fond of wine, though few are able to drink it because of the expense ; on some of the greater festivals, however, such as Easter, Christmas, or the feast-day of St. Elias, they indulge their taste in this respect. Brandy and spirituous liquors in general are in esteem, but their poverty fortunately prevents their using them, except when a visit to Cattaro enables them to obtain the luxury at a cheap rate. DRESS. 107 Of the dress of these people Lady Strangford, describing the dress of the Prince and of the men in general, says : — 1 The Montenegrin custom is the handsomest and most graceful I have seen in any country. The Prince wore dark-blue cloth pantaloons, cut in the square style, very full and wide, gathered in at the knee, with scarlet garters ; a Damascus silk scarf round the loins, and at his waist a huge crimson leather band, in which his arms are placed ; the Prince, however, is the only man who carries none at home. The scarlet waistcoat, embroidered and buttoned with gold, is half concealed by a closely fitting tunic of white cloth, also richly embroidered in gold ; the full court dress is the same, only that the tunic is then worn of green. Sometimes fur edgings are added, and all the gentlemen about the court have rows of large silver buttons sewn so thickly on the front of the tunic as quite to conceal the cloth, and to give the appearance of armour; while some had enormous shoulder-pieces of solid silver covered with bosses, completely covering the head and shoulders. Tho cap is of fur, with a panache of white cloth, embroidered and tasselled, hanging down at one side; this is in war, or in travelling, or in winter; in summer, or at home, 108 MONTENEGRO. the Montenegrin wears a peculiar pork-pie cap, with a black silk border and a scarlet centre. All the Montenegrins wear embroidered leggings. The Prince alone wears high leather boots. He wore gloves, as did every one at court, constantly. ' The dress of the peasants is made more or less in the same form, of commoner materials. All of these add, for cold and rainy weather, a thick cloak, called the strooka, which is made of undyed wool, coarsely spun in long frills, so as closely to resemble an untanned sheepskin.'* In the description of the dress of Prince Nicholas, which differs but little save in the quality of the material from that worn by Montenegrins in general, there is one noticeable omission. Except in actual warfare the Prince never, or but very seldom, carries weapons : his people are rarely without them. The sash and leathern girdle round their waist is rarely without a brace of pistols, and if a peasant walks beyond the bounds of his own village he has usually a long rifle swinging behind him. The arms assumed in boyhood are never laid aside. f * The Eastern Shores of the Adriatic, pp. 146, 147. t ' Ici ne depose rien de les instruments de guerre. Ici les armes font partie essentielle du vetement. On peut bien n'avoir qu'une chemise eraillee et un pantalon en loques, mais quelle honte si on ne pouyait etaler sur sa DRESS. 109 Of the people in general Sir Gardner Wilkinson says : — ' They wear a white or yellow cloth frock, reach- ing almost to the knees, secured by a sash round the waist ; under it is a red cloth vest, and over it a red or green jacket without sleeves, both richly embroidered ; and the whole covered with a jacket bordered with fur. 1 The female dress consists of a frock or pelisso of white cloth, without sleeves, and open in front, like that of the men, but much longer, reaching nearly to the ankles, and trimmed with various devices in braiding, or coloured cloth, and tassels, and in front are several gold ornaments/ * Though there is much the same relative distinc- tion between the farmhouses of the larger proprie- tors of twenty or thirty acres of arable land and the cottage of the owner of two acres of ground, as between the house of a small farmer and of a labourer in England, yet, as the larger proprietors are few in number, and poverty is the lot of the bulk of the people of Montenegro, the description of an ordinary cottage will give a tolerably correct idea of the habits poitrine deux crosses de pistolefet la poigneod'un glaive.' — Marmier, t. ii. p. 115. * Dalmatia and Montenegro, vol. ii. pp. 152, 153. 110 MONTENEGRO. and mode of life prevalent throughout the Princi- pality. I therefore borrow from my note-book a sketch of a Montenegrin cottage : — ' After about six hours' ride we found ourselves in the middle of the little village of Gradatz. On one side of the road was a threshing-floor, raised about ten feet above the pathway, and resting on large uncemented stones. The space below the floor was used as a storehouse for straw and maize stalks. The threshing-floor itself, like all others throughout Montenegro, was well cemented and finished with care, and surrounded by a wall of about two feet in height. A white mulberry-tree in the centre of the road flung its shade over the threshing-floor. On the other side of the way was a garden wall of uncemented stones, flecked with lichens and half- covered with blackberry-bushes. Inside the wall a pigsty and another mulberry- tree filled up the little court. The house itself was but one apartment, partially divided in the centre by hurdles. It had two doors in front, so that it had the appearance of two small houses instead of one large one, and each end was lighted by a small unglazed window or loophole. Behind, the roof of thatch, kept down by means of bands and large stones, rested on the live rock. In front, the wall was of hewn, cemented COTTAGE INTERIOR. Ill stone, with here and there a loophole for defence. In the part which I first entered, one or two logs and a wooden chair were all the ostensible seats ; others, however, could be extemporised out of the boxes, clumps of wood, and large stones which lay on the earthen floor. Overhead were a few rafters, not, how- ever, to support a ceiling, for there was none, but ranged from wall to wall as a convenient means of sup- plying the place of cupboards. From these rafters hung strings of onions, a ham or two, some salted fish, and two or three sheets of paper, covered with silk- worms' eggs hung up for hatching. Two or three earthen jars for water, a wooden bicker for milk, a coarse woollen rug, a child's cradle of primitive construction, a couple of reaping-hooks, a heavy horse-pistol and a rifle, were all visible through the dingy atmosphere. On one of the logs sat a woman nursing her infant, two or three other children crowded behind their mother and peered over her shoulder with awe and astonishment at the strangers. In another part of the room, stretched at full length in a sound sleep, was a girl of some fifteen years, and at her feet lay a young calf in apparently the same state of unconsciousness, whilst a couple of dogs contested with the children the occupancy of the floor. Behind the hurdle other members of the 112 MONTENEGRO. family had collected, to watch our movements from a safe distance. This apartment contained the rough boards on which the bedding of the various members of the family could be laid. A mass of rugs and other furniture for beds occupied one corner, and firewood was heaped up in another. On a fire in the centre of the cottage was placed a pot, the steam from which announced that preparation for dinner was going on. What else there might be I could not see, as the smoke from the beech logs obscured the room before it escaped from the regular outlets in the roof, as there was no chimney. It was just such a picture as Sir "Walter Scott has left us of a Highland cottage of the last century, or, indeed, such as several estates in Scotland can show even at the present day. The heaps of maize for man and pig, the mulberry- tree, the fig-branches trail- ing over the wall, the vine heavy with purple clusters of grapes, and the hedges of pomegranate bushes on fire with scarlet blossoms, were southern, and gave a local colouring to the scene ; but, apart from these, it was easy to imagine oneself in some unfrequented spot, at a distance from railways, in the northern part of Great Britain.' * Monsieur Lenormant, who lived for several years * Good Words, September, 1866. COTTAGE LIFE. 113 in the country, has drawn from the life a picture of the home occupations of a Montenegrin's family, which will best convey to the reader a notion of the life of peaceful pastoral simplicity of these highland warriors. Let us lift the latch with him and look around the house, which may be taken as a fair type of a cottage home in the mountains. An aged couple, bent with years and toil, are the sole occupants of the cottage, except some infants too young for labour, who are playing on the floor. The long flaxen hair and light blue eyes of the children speak of a northern race. The aged couple are the grandparents — often the great- grandparents — to whom all pay the utmost deference — not only their own children, but their grandchildren and their children; the sons-in-law and the daughters-in-law submit to their authority. Their white hair tells of their great age. The old man is no longer reckoned in the military strength of the celo to which he belongs, and wounds re- ceived in past wars have had their share in making him less active. But though no longer compelled to take the field, let but the sound of the Turkish drum be heard in the valley where he lives, and he will be seen hurrying to defend their home, and will be found fighting, surrounded by his I 114 MONTENEGRO. children and grandchildren. At present the sole occupation of himself and his wife is the care of the . infants. Whilst smoking around the fire he spends his time in carving some pieces of wood intended for the use and decoration of the cottage; she employs herself in repairing the tattered garments of the household, and in watch- ing the children at their sports. And now the sun, the only clock which is known to these mountaineers, the only clock found in all Montenegro, except at Cetinje or at Ostrug, tells that the day is declining.* The hour for the family supper is drawing on ; soon one by one the family will come in from the fields, and the old woman now hastens to prepare the simple meal. A joint of smoked mutton, taken from the racks over- head, is laid on the hot cinders, and by the time the family have assembled it is roasted. This joint is sometimes varied with salted fish or a pilau. Very commonly, however, flesh and fish are alike wanting, and only vegetables appear upon the table. However, all are content. The maidens come home from the fields, where they have been employed in digging or in hoeing, or engaged in tending the sheep or * In some cottages an hour-glass is found, hut this is not of frequent occurrence. COTTAGE LIFE. 115 cattle on the upland pasture. The sons stroll in armed to the teeth with pistols and rifles, as though from a foray in Albania. Their occupation, however, has been more peaceful than their appearance indi- cates, they having just returned from the market at Cattaro, where they have been selling garden- stuff, the produce of the ground round the cottage, and the poultry which was roosting last evening in the midst of the family. Every one, as he or she enters the house, kisses with respect the hands of the old couple, and not until this necessary salutation is over do they begin any familiar conversation. They now all prepare for the evening meal. First the old grand- father eats, then the men of the family seated round a large block of wood which serves them for a table, and then the women and children take their meal. After the meal the evening rest commences. All the family gather around the hearth. The men smoke, the women sow, knit, or attend to the wants of the children. Then turn by turn the men relate stories of personal adventure. As a matter of course they begin to speak of past battles. The old father has some story of the days of the great Vladika, and tells of the number of white plumes 116 MONTENEGRO. which he himself received in acknowledgment of the Turks which he had slain with his own hands. Then the younger ones tell of the days of Grahova and of their exploits under Mirko, and look for- ward with undisguised satisfaction to the call that Montenegro will send forth when danger next threatens their mountain homes. After these warlike recollections, which are always listened to with profound interest, those who have been at the market in Cattaro tell the news which they had heard there, and especially of anything that is taking place in Western Europe which promises to have an influence upon their own destinies. In the course of the evening neighbour after neighbour drop in and join the friendly circle, and the gusle is then brought out/ and lays of the ancient days of Servia, of Bosnia, of Ivan Beg, of Milosh Obilic, and of the glories of the reign of Stephen Dushan, * ' This instrument is remarkable from having only one string, which is stretched from a long rack, and a wooden body, covered with parchment ; its general shape being like a guitar. It is played with a bow. The sound is very plaintive and monotonous, and is principally used as an accompaniment to the voice; the performer singing the glorious wars of Montenegrin and Servian heroes ; of Tzerni George and Milosh Obrenovich ; of Tzernoievich and Milosh Obilich, or of the far-famed Scanderbeg, under whom their ancestors fought against the Turks.' — Wilkinson, vol. i. p. 440. COTTAGE LIFE. 117 are droned out from that monotonous but national lyre. And when enough of these have been recited, songs of domestic love, of the deeds of the Hay- duks, or weird lays of the Vila of the mountains,* fill up the evening. And thus night draws on, and the time for bed, or at least for sleep, arrives ; the friends who have come from the neighbouring cottages disappear, and as they move homeward the chant of a prayer is heard, until lost in the distance. At length the family are alone, and the members of it cluster into a corner of the room where hangs a rude painting of the name-saint of the family with a lamp burn- ing before it. The old father then recites aloud a short prayer, which ends with the ancient form of the Orthodox Church, in which our Lord is asked to accord one and all ' a peaceful rest and safety from all evil angels.' And now, the day-duties at an end, the fire is covered up with ashes, and the mattresses are stretched out upon the floor of the cottage, and, wrapped in their strookas — but not before they have again kissed the hand of the house-elder and received his blessing — the different members seek their allotted places with their feet turned towards * The Banshee, wraith, fairy, or protecting genius of the Serb people. 118 MONTENEGRO. the fire, and without dreaming of fastening the door, in patriarchial simplicity they drop asleep, free from thought of danger because consciously under the protection of their God.* * Lenormant, Turcs et Montenegrins. CHAPTER VIII. MORAL CHARACTERISTICS POSITION OF WOMEN HONESTY CHASTITY — COURT OF APPEAL CODE OF LAWS — EQUALITY OF PEOPLE. It is not to be supposed that the situation and poverty of the Montenegrins, and the life of unceas- ing warfare, or readiness for warfare, which their position forces upon them, can be unattended with evils which affect the character of these moun- taineers, though it may be questioned whether these evils and disadvantages are not more than counter- balanced by much of solid gain, and the growth of virtues which are frequently lost sight of in more civilised communities. The life of the women is one of hard toil. They have to bear more of the material burdens of daily existence than the men, to the loss of their beauty. Their life is one of humiliation, perhaps of inferiority, though not, as in the Turkish provinces, of degradation. They are the 120 MONTENEGRO. companions, not the toys and slaves, of man, even though they may get more than their fair share of the duties which such companionship entails. The need of constant watchfulness against the enemy on their frontiers has, it is said, produced a hajbit of craft in all classes in Montenegro ; which is probably true, since this is almost always the result of a similar condition of the kind of warfare which they have to endure. And though their practice of ready obedience to their Prince has put an end, within the borders of the Principality, to the vendetta, which was formerly resorted to, the Monte- negrins, when at a distance from their own homes, and away from the control of their ruler, are said to be treacherous and implacable. They are, more- over, inclined to be vain of their personal prowess, and have an inordinate thirst for admiration. In .matters of personal cleanliness there is much to be desired. It is the testimony of an admirer that 1 Cetinje supplies everything but a tub/ but then he adds, 'a wise traveller carries that with him.'* As to the people, water is scarce in their country, and is seldom resorted to for ablutions. Their linen is worn without change until it almost falls to pieces; add to this, they possess a fondness for * Freeman. VIRTUES. 121 spirituous liquors as great almost as their brethren and sisters in England. All the vices attributed to the people of Monte- negro, even if we grant their existence to the full, are, however, blended with great virtues. Their loyalty and patriotism are unimpeachable. Their courage, both active and passive, is undoubted. Though they are possessed with a reckless dis- regard of life when their country is endangered, suicide is seldom heard of among them ; such an act being justly contemned as a proof of moral cowardice unworthy of a Montenegrin.* Their honesty is remarkable; crime is rare in Montenegro, and the respect paid by the men to females, not only to those of their own race, but also to those of their enemies, is generally acknowledged. Hence injuries to women and children are seldom if ever heard of in their inroads upon Turkey ; f and the chastity of * Le Montenegrin Contemporain, p. 393. t ' Whatever their degradation may be, they possess broad distinctive marks of superiority over their Mussulman neighbours. One example of this is apparent in their heroic struggles against an overwhelming force for freedom. Another is the difference of their treatment of the weaker sex. Besides which the Turk is under superstitious in- fluences from which the wildest Montenegrin is free, and labours under a savage fanaticism which presents, so long as it lasts, a hopeless bar to all progress.' — Wingfield, Tour in Dalmatia and Monteneyro, p. 209. 122 MONTENEGBO. both sexes is witnessed to by all who have written of the Montenegrin people, even by those not disposed to regard the Serb character too favourably. After speaking of their social customs, Lady Strangford says : — ' They have another virtue beside this simplicity of life ; this is their perfect honesty. I happened to mention that I dropped a gold bracelet in Albania. u Had you dropped it here, even in the remotest corner of the Black Mountains, it would have been brought to me in three days," said the Prince. I am sure this was not mere talk, for I heard it confirmed by enemies as well as friends of the Montenegrins. I was frequently told of a traveller who left his tent, with the door open, on a Montenegrin hillside, and returned after three years' absence to find every single thing as he had left it. It is the old story of the devotion of a simple-minded people, and the just administration of a Homeric chieftain — all the more easily carried out in such a country as the Tzrnagora, because the Prince can be acquainted with the people as individuals, and can set them a personal example eagerly caught up by each of his loving subjects/* Be the reasons what they may, I add my testi- * Eastern Shores of the Adriatic, p. 159. HONESTY. 123 niony to the rigid honesty of the Montenegrin people/ 1 ' One use which is made of the little plane- tree in the centre of Cetinje is a deposit for found goods. Travellers in this country are as yet few, and the simple peasant, perhaps for that reason, is unperverted by contact with what is called ' civilisa- tion/ Now if one chanced to drop an article on the road, and it was found by any one in Monte- negro, the person who had lost the property might reckon on finding it laid at the root of the tree, or dangling from its branches, to be reclaimed by its owner. Few crimes, indeed, blacken the simple annals of these highlanders, and, save for border feuds and forays, now, however, rare, there would occur nothing to disturb the quiet of the Black Mountains save actual hostilities with the Turks or the expectation of approaching invasion. During the first five years of the reign of the present Prince, three executions occurred within the Prin- cipality, and when it is borne in mind that Prince Nicholas succeeded to power after the assassina- tion of his predecessor at Cattaro ; that vendetta had always been the practice, but had only two * A writer not disposed to do full justice to these people, yet observes, • I have not a word to say against the personal honesty of the Montenegrins.' — Wingfield, A Tour in Dal- wnatia and Montenegro, 1853, p. 184. 124 MONTENEGRO. or three years before been made punishable by death; and that recent legislation had placed the murder of a Turk on the same footing as that of a Christian ; and this in the teeth of inveterate prac- tice and of old and even honoured tradition not soon nor easily forgotten — the criminal business of the Principality must be acknowledged light. This state of absolute security along the frontiers has not, indeed, been attained without the employment of a vigorous hand and the exercise of a determined will. During one of the progresses of the Yladika Peter II. (1830—1851), he is recorded to have left as many as fifteen culprits for execution. This, however, is a state of things which has wholly passed away. In all that effects the position of woman and in the laws concerning personal purity, the principles of equity, which in communities boasting of a greater advance to civilisation are too frequently disre- garded, have not been lost sight of by Montenegrin legislators. On this subject I cite the testimony of competent and unprejudiced witnesses. 'According to Danilo's code, the Montenegrin woman has, in every respect, the same legal rights as a man, and especial provision is made to secure her a full share in the division of property. When PURITY OF LIFE. 125 a father's possessions are parted among his children, daughters inherit as well as sons, and an only daughter can succeed to the whole property of both her parents. "When a woman marries, she receives a dowry which passes to her husband's family, but in return, should she be left a widow, she is entitled to her husband's share in the common stock, and, should she marry again, the family of her first hus- band must continue her a certain pension. In cases of domestic quarrel, where a man refuses to dwell with his wife, they are at liberty to separate, but not to break the marriage. Neither of them may wed any one else, and the maintenance of the wife must be provided for by the husband. Further, care is taken by law that no woman be married against her inclination. When, as is usual, persons have been affianced in childhood, the priest is forbidden to marry them without having ascertained that the bride is a willing party ; and if a girl should dislike the spouse chosen for her by her parents, and choose one for herself, the family is not allowed to interfere. 1 Such couples/ so runs the sentence, ' are united by love.' 1 A woman who murders her husband shall be put to death like any other murderer, only no weapon may be employed in her execution, for it is shameful 126 MONTENEGRO. to use arms against one who cannot take arms in defence/ By what agency a woman shall be exe- cuted is not provided by the code Danilo, but, ac- cording to ancient usage, in cases of gross crime she is stoned, her father casting the first stone. With this fearful doom was visited every transgression of social purity, and though Danilo's code sanctions capital punishment only in the case of a married woman, by popular custom there is no exception. Nor, according to Montenegrin standard, is the crime less degrading to the stronger than to the weaker culprit ; the male offender equally forfeits his life, the honour of his family receives as deep a stain ; while her father undertakes the punishment of the girl, the man is shot by his own relatives. Thus have they 'put the evil away from among them ; ■ the Montenegrin spurns social impurity as unworthy of his manhood,* and even when dealing with their Mahommedan enemies, even in their wildest tchetas, with these ' barbarians ' a woman is safe. ' It has been remarked that the social virtue of * ' I asked the Prince what would be done to a woman who was unfaithful to her husband. He looked surprised, and said simply, ' They never are ; if they had been, in former days they would have been put to death : I should confine them for life." — The Eastern Shores of the Adriatic, p. 156. KESPECT FOR WOMEN. 127 the Montenegrin is not less admirable in itself than as an evidence of what the precepts of Christianity can do for the moral life of a people even when its material life has been reduced to the verge of bar- barism. ' * The respect evinced for women shows itself in a remarkable way. The protection of a woman gives to a criminal or to an enemy the most perfect immu- nity from danger. No one would venture to seize or attack any man to whom a woman had extended the sanctuary of her presence; so that in the most dangerous times, amid the conflict of war, her com- panion, however obnoxious he may be, either from private or public causes, is safe from the slightest molestation at the hand of a Montenegrin. 1 Though the poverty 'of the Montenegrin people * Travels in Slavonic Provinces of TurJcey, vol. ii. pp. 267, 268, 2nd edition. t ' A ce point de vuo les mocurs des Tsernogortses sont entierement chevaleresques. La femme est pour eux un etre inviolable. Les vengeances, les querelles de tribus ou de families ne l'atteignent pas. Elle jouit meme du plus noble privilege. L'homme qu'une femme a pris sous sa sauve- garde, eut-il coinmis un meurtre, fut-il sous le coup de la plus implacable vendetta, deviont aussi sacre qu'elle ; il peut avec elle venir s'asseoir au foyer de ses ennemis, mil n'ose- rait toucher a un cheveu de sa tete, car co serait se dis- honorer a jamais aux yeux de toute la nation.' — Lenoe- MA2JT, p. 21. 128 MONTENEGRO. stands greatly in the way of an extended hospitality to travellers, what they have is freely offered, and there is no country in Europe in which the safety of a visitor is regarded so greatly, and where his protection is deemed so much a point of national honour, as among these rugged mountains. In the times even of the greatest commotion the traveller in this country, wherever he may be, is absolutely safe.* Such petty disputes as arise among so primitive a people are settled by the judges of the village or the sirdar of the district. The senators are the chief judges of all matters which arise within their own districts, and the assembled Senate is the ultimate court of appeal from that of the palica or district. In more intricate or difficult disputes the decision of the Senate is given by the mouth of the President. The Prince, however, is commonly appealed to to settle disputes, and his decision is sought not only by his own subjects but by the inhabitants of the Herzegovina, which, though once a part of Mon- tenegro, has been for a long time in the posses- sion of the Turks. 'Every peasant in the land, however poor/ says Lady Strangford, 'has a right to come to the Prince himself for judgment ; * Cypeien- Robert, Lcs Sclavs de Turquie. COURT OF APPEAL. 129 and such is their affection for him that no one would dream of questioning his justice. If the justice of his sentence is not evident to them, they say, ■ He has a reason for it,' and ac- quiesce quietly. They are satisfied with the de- cisions of the Senate only as believing them to come from the Prince himself/* A more recent traveller thus describes the court of justice at Cetinje : — 1 In speaking of the metropolis of Montenegro I must not pass over unnoticed the senate-house and the senators of the Principality. Although for the trial - of offenders charged with great crimes the senators meet within doors and have the assistance of a secretary to make a record of the cause, yet in ordinary cases this is not resorted to. The senate- house is, as the Prince's secretary jocosely remarked to me, the largest in Europe, and indeed in the world. All ordinary assemblies, whether for counsel or for the trial of civil and criminal causes, are held under the plane-tree in front of the palace, the heavens its roof and the horizon its boundaries, if indeed it has any. The Sunday evening after my arrival I strolled out of my lodgings about six o'clock, and found a court of justice then sitting. * Eastern Shores of the Adriatic, pp. 157, 158. K 130 MONTENEGRO. The Prince was seated on a low wooden stool under the shade of the tree, whilst around him were ranged all the senators who happened to be in Cetinje. A few attendants with their rifles stood outside the circle of the senators, intermingled with a group of listeners, amongst the most interested of whom I may reckon myself. In the middle of the circle stood the plaintiff and defendant. The case was a disputed debt of a few piastres. Both spoke at once, and their pleadings were racy enough to elicit a joke or two from the Prince and laughter from the spec- tators. In the midst of the examination of the two parties to the suit — the only witnesses who appeared on this occasion — the horses were brought out for the use of the Prince in his customary afternoon's ride. Thereupon he soon summed up and gave judgment, apparently to the satisfaction of both parties, though evidently more to the satisfaction of one than of the other ; since, though both came forward and kissed his hand, the successful suitor kissed the hem of his coat also. . It was a very patri- archal scene, and such, I suppose, as might have been witnessed in the Highlands of Scotland little more than a century ago. The Prince told me afterwards that only trifling causes were thus dis- posed of, such in fact as required not so much the COURTS OF JUSTICE. 131 discrimination of a judge as the intervention of an arbitrator.' * If the court of appeal is of this primitive character, the simplicity which reigns throughout the ordinary courts of justice would astonish men accustomed to the more artificial systems of Western Europe. !No lawyer is reared on the soil of Montenegro. The judges, chosen by the peoplef yearly, on the Feast of St. Basil, J have no stated periods for their assize. The occurrence of a fair or a market, since it brings together a large number of people, is selected for the time of the gaol delivery of the district. Before this tribunal, seated always in the open air, plaintiff and defendant make their appearance, together with any witnesses they may deem neces- sary. The principals, having spoken in turn, and the witnesses having been heard, withdraw, and the judges discuss the merits of the case with the spec- tators, and consider the judgment they are about to give by the aid of the light which any one present may throw upon the matter in dispute. Having arrived at a conclusion, they then recall the plaintiff and defendant, and pronounce sentence, which is thereupon registered. Nothing else, how- * Good Words, February, 1866. f Code Danilo, art. 13. % Ubicini. 132 MONTENEGRO. ever, is written. There are no records of the plead- ings and therefore no precedents ; and, beyond a few brief paragraphs in the code of Prince Danilo, no statutes and no rules to guide the judge. Equity, common sense, the immutable laws of morality, and the acknowledged principles of Mon- tenegrin justice alone regulate the proceedings. As there are no special advocates, should either of the principals in the suit be not gifted with sufficient eloquence to plead his own cause — a circumstance, however, which rarely happens — one of the auditors is always ready to lend his aid and to enact the part of an advocate. * The principles of equity, which are common to all people, the traditionary laws of the old Serbian mo- narchy, and especially some precepts attributed to Stephen Dushan, made up until almost our own time the common law of Montenegro, and this unwritten code was for a long time the only law known through- out the Principality. At the close of the last century, however, Peter I. issued a code of laws consisting of thirty- three articles. These were republished with additions in 1855 by Prince Danilo, extending the code to ninety-three articles. A few of these articles will give the reader som« * LENC-miAXT. CODE OF LAWS. loo idea of the spirit of the laws which regulate the lives and actions of the Montenegrin people.* The code contains simple laws to restrain murder, acts of violence, the vendetta formerly practised, and robbery. It provides for the appointment of judges and defines their qualifications, and prescribes the punishment for unjust judgment. Since judges are chosen by the people, one of the articles of the code declares it to be their duty to fulfil the obligations imposed upon them by this choice, and to labour to maintain peace among their fellow-countrymen. For this end the judges are forbidden to engage in traffic or to travel out of their own country, f On taking their seat for the trial of any cause they are to remember : 1. That by the voice of God and the will of the people they have been chosen judges, the fathers and lovers of their country. 2. They are to pray God to enlighten their minds and to give them * This codo was printed under the title of ■ Zakonek. — Daniela Prvog Knesa e Gospodara Slobodne Chrnegore e Brdah. — lSoo." An official translation into Italian, " Codice