GIFT OF Prof. Charles A. Kofoii Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/canoecameratwohuOOsteerich THE AUTHOR'S SANCTUM. CANOE AND CAMERA: TWO HUNDRED MILE TOUR THROUGH THE MAINE FORESTS, Thomas Sedgwick Steele. ' If thou art worn and hard beset With sorrows that thou wouldst forget, If thou wouldst read a lesson, that will keep Thy heart from fainting, and thy soul from sleep, Go to the woods and hills! — no tears Dim the sweet look that Nature wears." Longfellow. mii^ lllnstrations. NEW YORK: ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 245 BROADWAY. 1880. 3? GIFT OF U^ C^.*^. -Ks^a^A^ Copyright. Thomas Sedgwick Steele, 1880. y />^^^^ />jrf?fj 7wj^^: E^jTi . rx .£!ry Tz^et^ya., a^i^t'€>0 2^A^^y^^^ ^.O.-^SL^H'^i^ iT^ ?9t^:^ Z^Jt^. . ^^^7UJ7.J^j:rz^^ €y<^*-^^/f^^ V CONTENTS CHAPTER I. An Angler's Soliloquy.— Isaak Walton's ideas. — A fish- ing minister. — The route to the woods. — Moosehead Lake and vicinity, Page 19 CHAPTER 11. The different routes through Maine. — The Party, Guides, Baggage^ Provisions, Canoes, Arms. — Camp appetite. — Studying Geography. — The start. — Bid adieu to Moose- head Lake. — North East Carry. — West Branch of the Penobscot. — First Camp on Moosehorn stream. Page 27 ivl203006 6 CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. Our first Camp at mouth of Moosehorn stream. — Accommodating one's self to circumstances. — The "Rips" of the West Branch. — Running the Rapids. — Pine Stream Falls. — Chesuncook Lake. — Umbazooksus River. — A "Bear" welcome. — Mud Pond and "Carry." — A Picture difficult to photograph. — Third Camp at Chamberlin Lake. Page 51 CHAPTER IV. Chamberlin Farm and Lake. — A novel fly-trap. — A lesson in Natural History. — Telosmis Lake. — The " Cut." — A three days' rain-storm. Webster Lake and Dam. — An Apparition. — The weird stillness of the primeval forests. — An accommodating fly catcher, . Page 64 CHAPTER V. Passage of Webster Stream. — An exciting day's sport. — The damaged canoes. — The canvJis boat triumphant. — Grand Falls. — Photograph- ing along the route. — Indian "Carry." — East Branch of the Penob- scot. — Matagamonsis Lake. — The discovery of a new Lake. — Trout Brook Farm. — Grand, or Matagamon Lake. — A captured sal- mon, Page 9a CHAPTER VL Dangers of wandering f]*om Camp. — An experience on Lake Superior. — The Falls of the East Branch. — Stair Falls. — Incidents of Camp life. An Enchanted Bower. — Hunt's Farm. — An Artist's Canoe. — The ascent of Hunt's Mountain. — A reverie. — Whetstone Falls. — Discovery of Jasper on Ledge Falls. — Dawn of Civilization. — Mat- tawamkeag. — The East Branch Canvas-ed, Page 117 Illustrations. 1. THE AUTHOR'S SANCTUM, Frontispiece- a. DEDICATION, Page 3 3. THE ANGLER 5 4. CANOE AND CAMERA 17 5. ISAAK WALTON 21 6. KINEO HOUSE, 25 7. ANTICIPATION 26 8. PICKING A COURSE, 28 9. MAP OP THE TOUR THROUGH THE MAINE FORESTS, ... 80 10. THE GUIDES, 33 11. WE DREAM OF GAME, 38 12. HOME APPETITE, 41 13. CAMP APPETITE, ."•.... 41 14. MORRIS'S— NORTHEAST CARRY, 43 15. IN SYMPATHY WITH NATURE 46 16. DISCOURAGEMENTS 48 17. "CHANGING PASTURE," 49 18. PENKNIFE SOUVENIRS, 52 19. PINE STREAM FALLS 54 ^. .MUD POND CARRY, 56 ILLUSTRATIONS. 27. 37. MUD POND-LOOKING EAST, 59 "THIS IS THE WAY I LONG HAVE SOUGHT," 62 REFLECTIONS, 63 CHAMBERLIN FARM-LOOKING WEST, 65 THE ROOM INTO WHICH WE WERE USHERED, 66 CAMP ON CHAMBERLIN LAKE, 67 NOT IN THE PATENT OFFICE, 70 A STUDY IN NATURAL HISTORY, 71 GREAT NORTHERN DIVER 71 TELOS CUT AND LAKE, 73 PHOTOGRAPHY— THE WET AND DRY PROCESS ILLUSTRATED, . . 77 TELOS DAM AND RIVER, 79 AN APPARITION, 8:3 WEBSTER LAKE AND DAM, 86 PLY CATCHERS VERSUS FLY FISHING, 88 ALLUREMENTS, yO STUDY OF TROUT-BY THE AUTHOR. NATIONAL ACADEMY OF DESIGN, 1877, 91 RUNNING RAPIDS ON WEBSTER RIVER, 95 LUNCH TIME, 99 IT'S NOT ALL POETRY, 101 GRAND FALLS, 103 STARTING A BOOM 107 A BOOM, 109 DISCOVERY OF A NEW LAKE, Ill MATAGAMONSIS LAKE 118 OUR SALMON, 114 MATAGAMON OR GRAND LAKE, 115 ON THE EAST BRANCH 120 DROPPING CANOES OVER FALLS, . * . . 122 ACCEPTING THE SITUATION, 123 STAIR FALLS 125 HULLING MACHINE FALLS, 126 ILLUSTRATIONS. 9 55. THE ARCHES-EAST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT 128 56. HUNT'S FARM, 130 57. MT. KATAHDIN— STUDY BY F. E. CHURCH, 132 58. JUNCTION OF EAST AND WEST BRANCHES OF THE PENOBSCOT, 134 59. GLIMPSES OF CIVILIZATION BEGIN TO DAWN. 137 (K). NET RESULTS 139 Introduction. ^HL LOVE for the woods and out-door sports begins early in life. I can hardly remember when the sight of a gun or fish-rod did not awaken within my boy- ish fancy a feverish desire to follow their lead, be the tramp ever so hard. There never was anything to stop the gro^vth of this passion until I reached the age of ten years, when I nearly destroyed a boy's eye with an arrow, in my endeavors to excel in archery. This act slightly dampened my ardor for some months, and retarded that progression in field sports I was then making. There is also something so free, so stimulating in the woods life, uncontaminated by the gossip, allurements, and exacting dress of the usual watering places, that after one season's enjoyment, a return to these wilder- 12 INTRODUCTION nesses, and repeating its pleasures, is the constant thought of the future. It also teaches very early self-reliance, and a phi- losophical endurance of many conditions of life, which add to one's cheerfulness, while one is surprised how few of the necessities are essential to produce happiness. " Man 's rich with little, were his judgment true ; Nature is frugal, and her wants are few." The study also of natural history in the woods takes one into a realm which has no bounds, constantly enlarging his love and admiration of God's works. The oft-repeated quotation, "Spare the rod and spoil the child," has been misconstrued for many a long day, and if I had known early in life its real significance it would hardly have made so doleful an impression. There is no doubt to-day in my mind that this " rod " meant a fishing-rod^ and that the timely cherishing of it in youth tends to develop that portion of one's nature to which the former use was entirely innocent. " The surest road to health, say what you will, Is never to suppose we shall be ill. Most of those evils we poor mortals know From doctors and imagination flow." INTRODUCTION. 13 And now, after spending many of the annual short vacations allotted to an active business life in various parts of this country, from Canada to Florida, in the exhilarating sport of hunting, fishing, and exploring, and deriving great physical good thereby, it would not seem strange that the writer shoidd be desirous of exciting in the hearts of others a taste for like recreations. In placing before my readei's this sketch of a late canoe tour through Maine — especially that portion pertaining to the east branch of the Penobscot — I am perfectly aware that no two trips through that region can be, made under the same circumstances. All days in the woods are alike, and still they are very unlike. Weather, height of water, companions, canoes, guides, sunshine or shadow, a hundred and one things, go to make a day pleasant or unpleasant to the tourist. During the month occupied in making this trip, the writer experienced but four days of rain. But the first rain-storm could not have been more opportune, as it raised the water of Webster stream to a height that permitted the pas- sage of my four canoes, when otherwise I should have endured a wearisome "carry" of seven miles. Unless there is sufficient water in Webster stream to float a canoe with easCy I should not recommend the tour of 14 INTRODUCTION. the east branch, for the numerous portages will hardly compensate for the pleasures of the trip. The writer distinctly remembers meeting an angler who had followed the recommendation of a guide book on Maine, and attempted the journey from Allagash river to Chamberlin lake. Instead of an abundance of water, the stream was almost dry, and a ^' carry" of seven miles had to be made to Chamberlin lake. Again, the canvas boat added no little enjoyment to the pleasures of the excursion, and the trip would have lost many of its bright experiences without its com- panionship. True, it received many a cut, but was more easily repaired than a birch bark, while its qualities of endur ance after such an ordeal permitted it to spend the following Avinter season under the tropical skies of Florida. No better companion could have been selected than Mr. H. R. Morley, of the Continental Life Insurance Company, Hartford (the "quartermaster" of the expe- dition), and to his suggestions and effoi-ts to make the best of all difficulties the writer acknowledges himself indebted. It is surprising how selfishness, egotism, and other like traits of character will develop in the woods when it was never recognized in the individual INTROD UCTION. 1 5 at home, and one must have the true spirit of patient endurance for the sake of accomplishment in order at times to enjoy the forest life. Thus the entire trip was made on the " flood tide," from the state of the weather to the volume of water in the streams, facilitating the taking of photographs, and adding height and power to the many picturesque falls on the route. Until I am corrected by further explorations, I think I am right in the discovery of a new lake (not found on any map), between Mataga- monsis and Matagamon lakes. An enlargement of Hay creek has been suggested as this body of water, but if so, all the larger lakes in this region are but a part of the preceding stream which empties into them. This lake has the same area of square miles as Telosmis lake, and empties its waters in to the sluggish stream which connects the two large bodies of water just mentioned. The pleasure of canoeing these undiscovered lakes and streams, and living from day to day upon their resources, was an element of indescribable delight. Nowhei'e do such rich thoughts of God's bounty, grand- eur, and control of nature impress one as in the depths of the forests, and there are I'everies forced upon one, for which a city of bi'ick ^\^alls and dusty streets have no 1 Q INTMOD UCTION. affinity. The individuality of each tree, the strange and I'are plants and flowers scattered along the indistinct path one wanders, all coupled with the weird stillness of the forest, bring one nearer to Grod and His works than almost any other situation. I do not suggest in this book the various ways of camping out, or the necessary preparations for the same, as there are special works on those subjects; I simply desire to direct the attention of tourists, and more especially artists, to a section of Maine noiv but little hnown, but which, if once explored, will yield to them a bright harvest of pleasure and studies. THE AUTHOR. Hartford, Conn. Canoe and Camera. TWO HUNDRED MILES THROUGH THE MAINE FORESTS. ILLUSTRATED BY True Williams, Benjamin Day, Aug. Will, and other Artists. CHAPTER I. I in these flowery meads would be; These crystal streams should solace me ; To whose harmonious, bubbling noise I with my angle would rejoice/' AValton. AN ANGLER'S SOLILOQUY.— ISAAK WALTON'S IDEAS.— A FISH- ING MINISTER.— THE ROUTE TO THE WOODS.— MOOSEHEAD LAKE AND VICINITY. IN tlie good old times, when the requirements of busi- ness kept one out in the open air, and each client or patient resided many miles away, and the onl}' communi- cation w^as by foot or on horseback, one did not need the indispensable rest and recreation of to-day. But now all is changed, and within a hand's grasp at our offices Ave can communicate by the strange wires of the telephone or telegraph with friends miles away, and save ourselves those steps which would no doubt be of c^reat benefit if taken. ^ . 2 20 CANOE AND CAMERA. In this fast world of ours, where the work of a week is crowded into a day, recreation is a necessity, and nowhere, it seems to me, has it greater recuperative power than in the depths of the forest. It is not as a plea for the angler that I pen these lines — he asks for neither Judge nor jury on his tastes, although they no doubt frequently I'eceive the verdict of both ; he is a law unto himself. " It is a very easy thing to scoif at any art or recrea- tion, a little wit mixed with ill-nature, confidence, and malice Avill do it, though they ai'e often caught in their own trap." It is only a few weeks since that I was rallied on my pet hobby by a prominent business man, who thought one could hardly be in his right mind who had a fond- ness for life in the woods, and that it must give one a tendency to coarseness, rather than improving our higher and more aesthetic tastes. But this gentleman was wel- come to his ideas, for he Avas then an invalid from a nervous disease, and had spent the prime of his life regaining his health, Avhen possibly an occasional day's tramp beside a trout stream would have been a matter of economy to both purse and body. The father of anglers, Isaak Walton, puts this same idea in a still better light, for although born in CANOE AND CAMERA. 21 1593, he knew how to read the human nature of to-day; he says: ''Yes! there are many grave and serious men who pity us anglers, but there are many ,|v^^: more grave and serious men whom we an- '^^ glers condemn and pity." "Men that are taken to be grave because nature hath made them of a sour complexion, money- getting men that spend all their time, first in getting. 22 CANOE AND CAMERA. and next in anxions care to keep it! men that are con demned to be rich, a'nd then always busy and discon- tented — for these poor rich men we anglers pity them perfectly, and stand in no need to boiTow their thoughts to think ourselves so happy." Some one has said that an angler consists of a rod with a fool at one end and a fish at the other. But Walton, in his meanderings beside the streams, is re- ported to have had the constant companionshi|) of a book, and between the nibbles of the fish stored his mind with useful knowledge. While hunting in the western part of Connecticut last autumn, a good story was told me of a minister who, soon after his settlement in the parish, greatly annoyed his flock by his habitual fondness for angling. He would start off early on Monday morning, and would keep up the diversion until late Saturday night; never- theless, the quality of his sermons, and the deep thoughts which they contained, so pleased his people that similar excursions were suggested to the pastors ot' other churches in the town. So much for an introduction to the inmost thoughts of a lover of the angle, but possibly you would like to know how to reach the solitudes of Maine, whose influ- ences are so bewitchinor to the writer, and where, with CANOE AND CAMERA, 23 the reader as companion, he proposes to enjoy a canoe ride of two hundred miles. To one about to make a trip to Maine, we would say, start in all cases from Boston, even though you live in Chicago. Take the 7 p.m. exj)ress on the Eastern rail- road for Bangor, thereby having a good night's rest in a sleeper, awaking refreshed for the pleasures of the next day's journey. But those who have never traveled this road will do well to see their flight be not in the night, for, commenc- ing with Boston, its main line extends along the shore, giving here and there glimpses of quiet bays and shady inlets, and through cities noted for their thrift and pros- perity almost from the country's settlement. One would be well repaid for a day spent at almost any station along the route, as the eastern shore of New England has often been the subject for busy pens and famous pencils. From Massachusetts Bay to Passama- quoddy and the Isle of Great Manan, it is tilled with nooks and beaches where, in the hot months of summer, the seeker for rest and renewed health can choose the spot suited to his taste. The Eastern railroad — with its numerous branches and connecting lines — ^forms the most direct and desirable means of access to these points of interest. 24 CANOE AND CAMERA. It does not, however, limit the choice to the seashore, for it leads also to the heart of the famous White Moun- tains, and to the vast and partially explored lake region of Maine, towards which I had set my face. Lynn, eleven miles from Boston, famed for its immense factories of boots and shoes, lies at the head of Nahant Bay, from which there is a delightful drive along the shore to Nahant, a noted, pictures(j[ue watering- place. Near by is Swampscott, its shores lined with summer cottages, and from here a short branch road runs to rocky Marblehead, a spot mentioned in letters of travel as early as the year 1633. Salem, four miles further on, famous since the days of witchcraft, and once the principal port of entry for New England, not only has its pleasant situation to attract the visitor, but is full of relics of the olden time of interest to the antiquary. It was the birthplace of many men whose names have become a part of our nation's history and literature. At Beverly, the Gloucester branch leads down to the sea at Cape Ann, with its sunny beaches and rocky head- lands, quiet when the wind is off shore, but where the waves come thundering in when driven before an easterly gale. But we have hardly time to speak of Newburyport, CANOE AND CAMERA. 25 another old seacoast town, and the lovely view to be had from its heights of the surrounding country and ocean, but hasten through to Salisbury, Hampton, and Rye Beach. Portsmouth is quiet and quaint, and at Conway Junc- tion, eleven miles from Portsmouth, passengers change cars for the White Mountains. At Portland, the angler makes choice of the routes to the two great trouting paradises of Maine — Rangeley Lakes and Moosehead Lake. KlNEC^OUSI If to the former place, he takes the cars for Farming- ton, eighty-five miles directly north from Portland, and then by stage thirty-six miles over the mountains to Kimball's Head of the First Rangeley Lake, w^here he will receive a hearty welcome from as cordial a company 26 CANOE AND CAMERA. of fishermen as it has been my pleasure in other seasons to enjoy. If the latter be his choice, guns, rods, blankets, and other camp equipage are shifted to the train of the Maine Central railroad for Bangor, where the cars are again changed for the road to Blanchard, which is twelve miles from Moosehead Lake. After a substantial dinnei', the tourist mounts to the top of the commodious Con- cord stage drawn by four horses, and enjoys a delightful ride of eleven miles over the hills to Greenville, foot of Moosehead Lake. Here the baggage is again changed to a steamer, and a most enjoyable sail of twenty miles lands one at the Kineo House, which stands on a prom- inent point of rocks extending far out into Moosehead Lake, a convenient center of attraction for those who dislike the unadulterated life in the woods. ANTICIPATION. CHAPTER II. " A bard is weak enough you'll find, A humble cat-gut twangler : But for a man of simple mind Commend me to an Angler. He'll fish and fish the whole year round Devotedly fanatic. To catch one fish that weighs a pound And then his joy's ecstatic." THE DIFFERENT ROUTES THROUGH MAINE.— THE PARTY, GUIDES, — BAGGAGE, — PROVISIONS, — CANOES. — ARMS. — A CAMP APPETITE. -STUDYING GEOGRAPHY.— THE START.— BID ADIEU TO MOOSEHEAD LAKE.— NORTHEAST ''CARRY."— WEST BRANCH OF THE PENOBSCOT.— LANDING FOR OUR FIRST CA^YP MOUTH OF MOOSEHORN STREAM. L/IS" leaving Moosehead Lake, the seeker for health or recreation in Maine, who desires to study nature in its primeval state, and drink from her fountains the blessings which she can so bountifully bestow, has three routes of 28 VANOE AND CAMERA. travel before him. These routes are known as the St. John's River, the West Branch of the Penobscot, and the East Branch of the Penobscot trips, and have for their point of departure the Kineo House, Moosehead Lake, where all that is necessary in camp supplies can al- ways be obtained. The most frequent- ed route, and on ac- count of its ease generally recommen- ded by the guides, is that to the St. John's River, which one reaches by PICKING A COURSE. P a S S 1 U g north from Moosehead Lake through the West Branch, Chesuncook, CANOE AND CAMERA. 31 Chambeiiin, Eagle, and Churcliill Lakes to the Allagash River, and thence northeast through Canada, emerging from the woods at Grand Falls, New Brunswick. The second, or the West Branch of the Penobscot trip, passes southeast through Chesuncook to Ripogenus Lake, and follows the West Branch through Pamedomcook and Twin Lakes into the Penobscot River. The third and most difficult course through this wilder- ness, is the tour of the East Branch of the Penobscot, which leaves the St. John's route at Chamberlin Lake, and passes south through Telosmis Lake and then east through Telos and Webster Lake and River to the Mat- agamonsis and Matagamon or Grand Lake into the East Branch, and after tumbling over the most picturesque falls and rapids in the entire State, unites with the AVest Branch of the Penobscot at Medway."^ To retain my good health, and enjoy for the fifth season * Still another trip can be made from Churchill Lake through Spider, Echo, and Mansungan Lake and River, to the Aroostook waters coming out in Maine at Caribou. Col. Lyman B. Goff of Pawtucket, R. I., with his guides Kelly and Man- sell, surveyed this route last season, cutting a good path on the many " car- ries " for the easy transportation of canoes, and to him the author is indebted for new and correct drawings of that region which have been added to this map. But the scenery is uninteresting and the difficulties will not compen- sate one for the labor endured, and woe betide the tourist if the water is low. 32 CANOE AMD CAMERA. the dearly-loved woods and lakes of Maine, the summer of 1879 soon found me again within her fascinations, a wil- ling captive to her charms. We have never failed in the past to impress upon our friends that one companion is sufficient for company in the woods, but this year, the party although it had small beginnings increased in the ratio of the demands of my tastes. As gathered upon the deck of the little steamer " Day Dream " one bright summer morning, while on her way from the Kineo House to the head of Moosehead Lake, we numbered six souls. I had chosen for my route this year, the East Branch of the Penobscot River, a canoe paddle of almost two hundred miles, as offering in its swift running streams, lovely waterfalls, and majestic mountains, that excitement and adventure which my love of nature craved. In ad- dition to the writer, the party was divided as follows : " Quartermaster," photographic artist, and three guides, named respectively Bowley, Weller, and Morris. My friend who is designated as " Quartermaster " did not re- ceive his title from any such position in my expedition, but from holding an office of like character in a New England regiment during our late war, and he proved by the daily- use of his knife in arranging the comforts of the camp, ' that he was to the manor born. THE GUIDES. Bowley. Morris. Weller. CANOE AND CAMERA. 35 Our artist was from the "Land of Steady Habits," whose sole duty it was to care for the delicate camera and glass plates, together with the necessary but ill-fla- vored bottles of his kit, and to be constantly on the alert for choice, or grand bits of scenery along the route. In such a tour as this, with the many accidents ever atten- dant on camp life, it was no small matter to carry through the wilderness the articles pertaining to our photograph- er's kit. We had fifty glass plates six by eight inches each, which wei'e prepared and developed on the ground by what is known as the " Avet process." Careless treatment in cartage on the " carries," or a sudden jar might at any moment damage them beyond recovery, which would im- mediately subvert one of the principal objects of the exploration. Then each chemical had its individuality of importance, from the ether to the collodion, the destroy- ing of which would put an end to the pleasui'es of photo- graphing. The first and oldest of the guides, Bowley, was a man of forty-eight years, and lived at Shirley, Maine. He was fiYe and a half feet high, weighed one hundred and ninety pounds, had brown whiskers, turning to gray, checkered shirt, weather-beaten suit, soft brown hat, and a kind sympathetic face, which I found before the trip was ended 36 CANOE AND CAMERA. truly expressed his manly character. I was sometimes inclined to think him slow, and to find fault with the con- sumptive color of his biscuit and " flipjacks," and urged him to greater diligence and variety in the cooking depart- ment, but in matters of importance he always proved his soundness — but he had one fault, he could scent a " carry " three days ahead, and remember its hardships and bur- dens two days after. He delighted to tell of his many interesting experiences in the wilderness, and of his geo- logical researches through Maine some years ago Avith Prof. Hitchcock, of Amherst college, while his moose, bear, and caribou stories were endless. The second guide, Weller, aged thirty-seven years, was a French Canadian from Quebec, but living at this time in Greenville, Me. He was five feet four inches high, weighed one hundred and fifty-one pounds, with reddish moustache and whiskers, brown hair, and A\'as dressed in a dark-colored woolen suit. He was a fine waterman, and occasionally witty, as is proverbial witli his class. The third and last guide, Morris, was a vivacious young man of twenty-three summers, but who looked all of thirty. He was about five feet three inches high, weighed one hundred and sixty pounds, had light brown hair and moustache. Dark blue flannel shirt and woolen CANOE AND CAMERA. 37 pants constituted his habiliments, which latter garment early in the day proved its inferiority by sundry tears which gave him a picturesque appearance highly appre- ciated by our artist. A black felt hat was the crowning feature of his attire, around which Avas wound " casts " of varied colored arti- ficial trout flies. He was the most venturesome canoeman of the party, ever first to try the dangers of the many waterfalls and cataracts on our route. Morris was also the hunter, and many a plump duck and partridge found its way to our table through his activity, which quality is always appreciated by the campei'-out. Our personal belongings were numerous, consisting of woolen and rubber blankets, rubber wading stockings, moccasin shoes, fly rods, guns, landing nets, a lantern, and the very necessary black-fly ointment, consisting of oil of tar, glycerine, gum camphor, and oil of pennyroyal. We also had extra changes of underclothing, woolen stockings, buckskin suits, and an assortment of tools, waxed ends, and silk thread for the repairs of broken fly rods if such should be our misfortune. The number of weapons composing our armory was one Sharps, one Ballard, and one Spencer magazine rifle, one 38-calibre revolver, and a double barrel shot-gun which also contained two auxiliary rifle barrels. Each 38 CANOE AND CAMERA. man also carried tlie usual long sheath knife, which latter article was never drawn in a more deadly conflict than WE DREAM OF GAME. that between hard tack and salt pork ; nevertheless it was often a trial which brought into play the most heroic CANOE AND CAMERA. 39 ([ualities of the arm. These made us at once feel invin- cible against the attack of wild beasts, while at the same time it encouraged such hopes of success in the cap- ture of wild animals that it even troubled the nightly rest of some of the members of the expedition. Three birch-bark canoes and one portable folding canvas canoe constituted our ships of burden, which exerted great influ- ence in exploring the wilds, and added to the enjoyment of its pleasures. How much poetry and romance the words, birch-bark canoe, suggest to our mind ! the grand old forests have more tender associations when one is paddled through their lights and shadows in a birch canoe ; there are thoughts and reveries which make themselves felt as one examines their construction — a natural fitness of thino^s to the regions in which they are used. The delicate-colored bark stripj)ed from a prominent tree is cut at the ends and gathered up into uniform bow and stern, cut and then brought together again at the sides alternately to lift the lines fore and aft ; this gives a surface to meet the waves, producing that buoyancy so pleasing to the craft. Then a gunwale, of strips of wood, is affixed, sewed with spruce roots or rattan, and the whole lined from stem to stern with thin strips of wood called " knees." A birch canoe will weigh from eighty- 40 CANOE AND CAMERA. five to one hundred and fifteen pounds when averaging eighteen to twenty feet; but I have occasionally seen those that weighed three times that amount, and had a longitude of twenty-eight to thirty feet. My portable canvas canoe made for this special occasion was fifteen feet long with a weight of only forty- five pounds, when the fish-rod-like stretcher was inserted. This canoe could be collapsed at a moment's notice, placed in a bag seventeen by thirty-eight inches, and carried on the shoulders wth ease by one person, while it would float eight hundred and fifty pounds. Before the month's journey was completed, I found I could leap falls and rapids more safely than in a birch bark canoe, and although I often paid for my audacity by cutting its surface, it was easily sewed, watei^roofed, and I continued my way. On account of its convenient construction and weight it could be easily transported through the woods to the small bodies of water off our main course, and explorations made not accessible to a birch canoe. As we were to pass through a country uninhabited we were obliged to provide ourselves from the start with food sufficient for the entire thirty days' sojourn, and it may be interesting to the reader to know the quantity and variety of the supplies, should he ever undertake a CANOE AND CAMERA. 41 similar enterprise. We did not rely upon tlie game or fish of the country we were canoeing ; like excursions in the past had taught us that these A .,,, xv4^>' ^ ->^ <^ articles were more incidental sur- '^■^■^^•^ W^mJ^-.5^fc^ v\ prises, than an excess of the daily ^^%M nnv ^^ s V • V nienu. Very few tourists to Maine select this, the Tiardest of routes^ and Ave found, afterwards, that w^e were the first party who had passed doion the East Branch of the Pen- ohscot river during the year 1879. A ^'camp ap- petite " is something entirely differ- ent from what one enjoys at home. One would turn in aversion from the plainness of the fare were it placed on the table. But the sur- roundings and the daily vigorous exercise seem to make one forget the homely dishes, and articles re- fused at our own boards are de- voured in the woods with avidity. Most of the pro- HOME APPETITE. CAMP APPETITE. 42 CANOE AND CAMERA. visions were packed into wooden pails of various sizes, the balance in canvas bags, and were assorted as fol- lows : thirty-four pounds of hard tack or bread, seventy- three pounds of flour, one bushel of potatoes, twelve pounds of salt pork, four pounds of beans, two packages of baking powders, two and one half pounds of cheese, ten pounds of ham, three pounds of candles, one bottle each of pickles and chow-chow, three cans of potted ham, seven and three-fourths pounds of onions, twelve pounds of canned corned beef, six pounds of maple sugar, one dozen cans of condensed milk, three pounds of tea, seven pounds of coffee, and thirteen pounds of granulated sugar, besides a quart of oil for our lantern, which latter article w^as one of the most useful of the lot. Sugar, either ma- ple or granulated, always disappears in the woods at an early date, and the immense quantities of luscious blue- berries and blackberries to be had at any time along our route greatly facilitated its departure. Our canoes, when packed with all the above articles, and further embellished by sundry tea and coifee pots, kettles, frying-pans, broilers, bakers, tin plates and cups, reminded one of the early days of our forefathers and their pilgrimages to the '^ far west." The country towards which we had set our faces was entirely new to tourists, and but one of our guides (Weller) had ever explored CANOE AND CAMERA. 45 its hidden depths, and even his memory was so treacher- ous as to be of little service to us. Recently issued maps were faulty, and we were obliged to make many correc- tions on them and manufacture the geography as we sailed alonof. On reachins: the head of Moosehead Lake our many boxes and bags, just enumerated, were transferred to the sadly dilapidated wharf at the Northeast "carry," and afterwards removed by the guides to a heavy lumber box wagon dra^vn by a single horse, while the birch canoes, supported by long poles, were lashed at the sides of the cart. Our artist, to secure his photographic materials against harm, rode in front with the driver, but the writer, in compan}^ vdth the quartermaster and the guides, trudged along in the sand at the rear. This ". carry " or path is about two miles long, rising gradually towards the middle from each end, and termi- nates on the north at the West branch of the Penobscot river. There are log houses where one can obtain dinner at either end of this portage, but as our guide, Morris, lived at the further point, our party chose to lunch at his house, and our recollections of his mother's preserved strawberries, fresh cream and bread are alive to this hour. After dinner we immediately betook ourselves to the river's bank, launched the birch canoes, stretched the 46 CANOE AND CAMERA. canvas canoe into shape, and, balancing the crafts to a nicety \\dtli our baggage, swung off down the stream for a month's exploration of the inmost heart of Maine H z^m-^ IN SYMPATHY WITH NATURE. One well knows the delights attending a picnic in the woods for a day — arising at early morn and carefully CANOE AND CAMERA 47 stowing away in baskets sundry choice and toothsome articles, and filling the corners of the basket Avith beau- tiful bright flowers from our gardens, we resorted to the woods and dividing into groups under the shady trees we spread on temporary tables the savory dishes, and strove to the best of our ability to get in sympathy with nature."^' But think of a month's picnic daily filled with excitement and pleasure^ from running rapids and falls in a canoe to enticing the wary trout, or picking strange flowei's and berries by the brookside, and at night resting one's tired but invigorated body under a snow Avhite tent ! The west branch of the Penobscot (or Rocky) nver, after leaving the terminus of the Northeast " carry " at Morris's, flows steadily to the southeast with hardly a ripple for some two miles until it reaches the mouth of Lobster stream; then a stronger current is perceptible with " rips," and this continues for two and a half miles more, when after passing a small island the water again becomes ^^dead." The birch barks, paddled by guides Weller and Morris, preceded us down the river, while the quartermaster and I followed in the canvas canoe, * If I ever write another book I think I shall eschew sentiment. I thought at the time that " sympathy with nature " was very good, but I find that it has been thrown away on at least one — th(? artist. T. S. S. 48 CANOE AND CAMERA. the foiirtli canoe with Guide Bowley and the artist bring- ing up the rear. Could there have been a looker-on from the shore, he would possibly have thought it was a government expe- dition in search of the " northeast passage ; " but although our destination was about as little frequented it was not so grave an affair. After paddling until late in the afternoon through eight or ten miles of still water we made our first camp on the right bank of the river, at the mouth of Moose- horn stream, and transferring our "kit" to the shore turned over our canoes in the sun to dry. DISCOURAGEMENTS. CHAPTER III. ' Within the sun-lit forest, Our roof the bi'ight blue sky, Where streamlets flow, and wild flowers blow, We lift our hearts on hi•■ k^^^-t. axes before forcing a passage into Chamberlin Lake. The sun was hardly half an hour above the horizon, as we CANOE AND CAMERA. 63 crossed this beautiful lake two and a half miles to the opposite shore, and camped on its white pebbly beach at the foot of a farm. This was the only one of three habi- tations which we saw on our trip, and the delight which we experienced was as great as the recovery of a lost trail in the ^voods by the tourist mentioned in the follow- ing incident. A brother angler, while treading a lone- some path in this very neighborhood, found one day a piece of birch bark nailed to a tree on which was inscribed these familiar lines — " This is the way I long have souofht And mourned because I found it not." REFLECTIONS. CHAPTER IV. *' On the fair face of Nature let us muse, And dream by lapsing streams and drooping wood; Tread the dark forests whose primeval ranks Since the Creation dawn have cast their shade." CHAMBERLIN FARM AND LAKE.— A NOVEL FLY-TRAP— A LESSON IN NATURAL HISTORY.— TELOSMIS LAKE.— THE "CUT."— A THREE DAYS' RAIN STORM.— WEBSTER LAKE AND DAM.— AN APPARITION.— THE WEIRD STILLNESS OF THE PRIMEVAL FORESTS.— AN ACCOMMODATING FLY-CATCHER. UhAMBERLIN farm consists of one log liouse, eight or ten barns, and about three hundred acres of cleared land, if where in some portions you can jump from stump to stump can be called " cleared land." The buildings are situated on a hill fronting the lake, and command a view of the greater part of the water. Mr. Nutting (who with his three sons has charge of the farm) is six feet high, straight as an Indian, with hea\y CANOE AND CAMEBA. 65 high cheek bones, black moustache, and whose face is thoroughly tanned by exposure to the sun. The farm, with others in this vicinity, is owned by Messrs. Coe & Pingree of Bangor, Maine, who possess vast tracts of this wilderness, which they lumber and pass the result of their efforts to the mar- kets along the coast of the State. CHAMBERLIN FARM AND LAKE LOOKING WEST. During the summer months the products of the farm are gathered into the barns, and are used to feed the hundreds of "log drivers " who in the winter and spring are annually sent to this region. These '' loggers " are a hardy set of men, receiving a dollar and a half a day when "on the drive," and work from 2 a. m. 65 CANOE AND CAMERA. to 10 P. M., often exposed to great perils and the inclem- ency of tlie weather. Large herds of cattle and sheep are pastured here, and on the hill at the rear of the house I noticed a number of mules. THE ROOxM INTO WHICH WE WERE USHERED. The two-story log house in which resides Mr. Nut- ting is painted an Indian red, and has the only embel- lishment of any of the buildings. The interior is white- washed, and has three rooms on a floor. The room into which our party was ushered had low ceilings of heavy logs, blackened by age and smoke from the big square iron GANOE AND CAMERA. 69 stove whicli held undisputable possession of the center of the apartment. In one corner was a gre^t box con- taining wood, which also served as a bed when other ac- commodations wei'e not available. From the ceiling, hardly seven feet high, was arranged the clothes line, on which hung a portion of the week's washing, while the floor was made of logs with enough openings between them to admit plenty of fresh air. Artistic taste had not been wanting in the decoration of the log walls, and engravings cut from illustrated papers were tacked there- on, while in a prominent position was hung the portrait of a late unsuccessful candidate to presidential honors. Rough shelves nailed to the sides of the walls between two windows supported a roll of old papers, a Webster's dictionary, National fifth reader, Greenleaf's arithmetic, a Bible, and Testament, while at their side hung a mirror, and the family hair-brush and comb. But the most novel article in the room was a fly-trap, which, although it dis- played the inventive genius of the locality, can hardly have its model on the many shelves of the Patent office. This fly-trap hung from the ceiling near the stove, and was manufactured from two shingles fastened together at the butts like an inverted V. On the inside was spread molasses, and as fast as the insects became inter- 70 CANOE AND CAMERA. ested in its sweets, it was the duty of the passer-by to slap the boards together and destroy their contents. In addition to superin- tending this farm and stock, it is the duty of Mr. Nutting to provide for the various logging camps in the neighborhood, and to watch for the first indica- tion of fires, whose de- structive power in the pine forests he fully re- alizes. Chamberlin Lake, on which we had pitched our tent, is fifteen miles long and three miles wide. It has an area of twenty square miles, is 1,134 feet above tide water, contains a number of islands, and took its name from an unfortunate man lost some years since on its shores. Years ago a large dam was built at its northern outlet into Eagle Lake, and the water driven back south, through an arti- ficial cut between Telos and Webster Lakes, thus enable - ing the lumberman to " drive " his logs to a home market through the East Branch of the Penobscot river, instead of NOT FOUND AT THE PATENT OFFICE. CANOE AND CAMERA. 71 by the St. Jolms route to the foreign one of New Bruns- A STUDY IN NATURAL HISTORY. wick. It costs fifty dollars a ton to transport supplies to this farm, and flour is nineteen dollars a barrel. 72 CANOE AND CAMERA. After our labors on Mud Pond " carry," we rested here three days, taking photographs of the scenery, and mak- ing excursions to the dams between Chamberlin and Eagle Lakes, w^here we found plenty of exercise for our trout rods. We also "sacked" our canvas canoe across the hills on the east to Indian Pond in search of wild ducks and trout, but were only rewarded by a study in natural history which seldom happens to the forest lover. Our discovery was a family of loons, or the great Noi-th- ern Diver, a bird the size of a goose, and the finest on in- land northern waters. It could be honestly said, '' they lived in flats," as their rough nest, composed of sticks and moss a foot in height and two feet in width, rested on a flat sandy knoll which stretched out into the water. Against the unmistakable dislike of the parent birds, I paddled to the front door of their house, and, gazing in, discovered a recently hatched bird and one egg. The egg was dark brown, spotted with black, eight and seven-eighth inches at the longest, and seven and one- quarter at the shortest circumference. The young bird had every appearance of a goslin, with down of a gi'ayish black, and did not seem in the least annoyed as I stroked its glossy coat. Withdrawing my canoe, and creeping quietly back into the thicket, I enjoyed the lesson in frog CANOE AND CAMERA. 75 catching, tauglit the young one by the old birds, and I left them undisturbed in their happiness. It was with great reluctance that we broke camp early on the morning of August 12th, rolled our tent, and, arranging our kit in the canoe, paddled out into Chamberlin Lake and bade farewell to the scenes around which clustered so many pleasant memories. The fresh milk, butter, and eggs of the farm were a happy I'elief to our regular fare of salt pork and hard tack, while the fresh straw, which Mr. Nutting so kindly offered us from his barns, for the floor of our tent, added greatly to our comfort. ' But we had not started with the idea that in this wil- derness we were to enjoy all the dainties of life, for in order to explore its depths Ave must give up luxuries and comforts which at home seem indispensable. How often in my earlier years, while pursuing the study of geography at school, did my pencil in di'aw- ing maps wander over this endless tract of territory to the north and east of Moosehead Lake, striving to pic- ture to my imagination its elements. This great lake near the center of the State, together with few of the largest rivers whose source then seemed a doubt, were about all that relieved the picture, and I was 76 CANOE AND CAMERA. daily discovering new beauties of scenery little known to the outside world. " A land of streams ! Some, like a downward smoke, Slow-dropi^ing veils of thinnest lawn, did go ; And some through wavering lights and shadows broke. Rolling a slumbrous sheet of foam below." Through the long stretches of deep water of Chani- berlin Lake we paddled, keeping time with our oars, while on our right arose the peaks of the lovely Sourdna- hunk Mountains, each individualized by the bright rays of the morning sun. Entering Telosmis Lake, which is about a mile in ex- tent, we sailed swiftly through its quiet waters and passed into Telos Lake, where, at the mouth of a brook on the right hand, we were successful in landing a fine lot of trout which averaged over a pound each. Telos Lake is four miles long and about half a mile wide, and is nine hundred and fourteen feet above tide water, its northern shore rocky and abrupt, in comparison with the sandy and uninteresting nature of its south coast. The mouth of the canal or " cut " at its foot is clogged with immense quantities of flood-wood, old logs, and stumps, bleached to whiteness by the action of the weather, which give it a weird and ghostly appearance against the background of verdure. This "cut" was CANOE AND CAMERA. 11 THE "wet and dry PROCESS" OF PHOTOGRAPHY AS ILLUSTRATED BY CAMP LIFE. 78 CANOE AND CAMERA. dug by lumbermen some forty years ago, to pass their logs into tlie East Branch of the Penobscot, but below the , old dam, quarter of a mile distant, one would never suspect by its natural and picturesque shore it was the work of men's hands, the force of water having relieved its sharp outlines. While our artist was preparing his camera for a pho- tograph of the "cut "and lake, our guides "sacked" their burdens and canoes across the chevaux-de-frise of old stumps into the " cut," and we pitched our fourth camp on the high bank to the right of the old Telos dam. Although we had been out fourteen days, we had so far been very fortunate regarding the weather, but we here experienced the first rain-storm of the trip — a genu- ine northeaster of three days' duration. We had hardly raised our tent and got our " kit " under cover before the watery contents of the heavens began to descend, and we took extra precautions to make ourselves comfortable and endure the trial in the most cheerful spirit possible. But I will not detain the reader with every item of the three days' imprisonment. Encased in our waterproofs, we resorted to the dam, caught trout, or wandered beside the waters of Telos stream for ducks and partridges, giv- ing little heed to the elements. m 'Xr-^^^'. ■ -^-■^^. ?/4 CANOE AND CAMERA. 81 It is amazing how little one makes of discomforts in the woods, provided he sympathizes with his surround- ings. But to a nature having neither poetry nor romance, to whom a fall is only a suggestion of water power, and a tree so man}^ feet of lumber, the situation is unendur- able. Here our canvas boat was overhauled, cuts sewed and waterproofed, birch canoes pitched, buttons adjusted to our clothing, socks darned, guns and rifles cleaned, while the " Quartermaster " busied himself ingeniously carving pliers, scissors, and vises from wood, cutting the joints of the same piece as souvenirs of the locality. But the storm had one good eifect; it nearly ex- hausted the moose and bear stories of the guides, and left them, in the future, only the cuxTent topics of the day to discuss. So far the days had been exceedingly warm, — ther- mometer sixty to seventy in the shade, — but what was our surprise on arising early on the clear bright day of August 16th to discover a heavy frost, and the ice in our camp pails an eighth of an inch in thickness. AVe were first aware of the event by the exclamations of our cook, Bowley, who ^s^as slipping about on the frozen ground outside, and to our incredulous replies, lifted into the door of the tent one of the frozen pails by the tin dipper 82 CANOE AND CAMERA. whicli adhered to its surface. The tent was quickly " stnick " and dried, and, rolling into our rubber blankets and bags our effects, we were cutting the waters of Telos stream, and soon emerged into tranquil 'AVebster lake at its foot. The brook is about a mile long, and very shal- low, and but for the late rain would hardly have been navigable. An easy " carry " of a mile can be found through the tall grass and w^oods on the right-hand side, which also terminates at the head of the lake. It is very essential to one's happiness, in making this tour, to know^ on which side of the stream is the best portage around a fall or rapids, for the knowledge saves many a laborious walk when one's shoulders are loaded. Webster lake is a charming little sheet of water about three miles long, and perhaps half as wide, which is wooded down to its very edge. At its foot is another of those series of loggers' dams, about twelve feet high, and on the extreme high bank to the right we again pitched our tent. Great cai-e had to be taken with our fires along the road, that not a remnant of them be allowed to I'emain, and the indications are often very delusive. Many years ago a fire started in the woods on Eagle lake, and the de- vouring flames, sweeping southward over fifty miles to this section, destroyed this dam which has since been rebuilt. Jt AN APPARITION. CANOE AND CAMERA, 85 There are many decayed and deceptive logs about these old dams, some even a foot in diameter, which at a slight pressure will crumble and plunge one into the deep Avater below — I speak from experience. A bear story is always welcomed in camp, not only on account of the truthfulness attending the first one, bat the doubts which hover around the succeeding tales, add to their interest. We stretched the canvas of our tent at this place, and while each one was engaged in his various duties, Weller, the guide, pail in hand, sallied out for fresh spring water. He had hardly disappeared from our sight, when with immense jumps he came tearing back through the bushes shouting, a bear ! a bear ! A rush for our rifles, and a forward movement into the woods. But after an unsuccessful tramp, the she bear and two cubs seen by our friend could not be found. Before we left the wilderness, we had the unspeakable pleasure of making the acquaintance of some six bears ; but on every occasion we were without our rifles, and when we made an effort to hunt them, they were not to be found. We were either shooting a quick flo^ving stream, and with diflficulty keeping our canoes from the rocks, or surprised by meeting them (as in the above 86 CANOE AND CAMERA. case) nearer to camp than one could expect, when tliey suddenly apjDeared. A few years since, Maine offered a bounty of ten dol- lars a head on bears, and the hunting or trapping of them was a lucrative pastime, but since the withdrawal of the CANOE AND CAMERA. 87 premium, hunters have decreased in the same proportion that bears have increased. As might be expected, around the camp fire that night, the recent experience suggested hunter's tales, each having its special locality and party designated, who wit- nessed the exploits, while the habits, courage, and pecu- liarities of bruin and other animals were discussed to an unlimited extent. One of the stories told by Guide Morris related to a tame beaver which had grown to be a great household pet of a farmer living in the vicinity of Moosehead lake. One nifyht a defective faucet filled the farmer's sink and overflowed to the floor of the kitchei^ whereupon the beaver, following his natural instincts, cut up the chairs and tables of the room, and building a dam about the fugitive stream saved the habitation from further injury ! We tarried three days at Webster dam, where we captured the largest trout of the excursion, and feasted on many a fine duck and partridge. To impress the reader with the idea that our table fare Avas not so hard as might have been expected, I would state that the items of the daily menu consisted of fried brook trout, boiled potatoes, stewed duck or partridge, hard-tack, "flip-Jacks," with maple sugar, coffee, and tea. Fish chowders and game stews were our 88 CANOE AND CAMERA. favorite dishes, all eaten with the seasoning of a hearty appetite. FLY CATCHERS VERSUS FLY FISHING. At this point we were probably as deep in this wil- derness as it was possible to get in the trip. The most striking feature of the forests is the absence CANOE AND CAMERA. 89 of animal life, and more noticeable in our northern than southern wilds. The stately pines of the South stand from eight to twelve feet apart, and with a span of horses one can almost drive from one end of Florida to the other. In fact, the writer, in the winter of 1875, met a party so equipped, traveling in an open wagon from New Smyrna to Fort Capron, choosing their way by the compass' aid. This open condition of things permits the rank growth of vegetation and animal life, which the close-locked branches of our northern forests prevent. In the latter case, also, the continual sifting of the pine leaves on the ground, and the gloom of the overhanging boughs choke what few shrubs might have an existence. Only along the rivers, or where the woodsman has failed to spare some tree, dare anything but a courageous blackberry or shrub-maple show itself. You may wan- der for hours in this stillness without seeing a living creature, unless you look sharply enough to mark the insects which toil in the mosses underfoot, inhabit the bark and decayed wood, or wait for you to rest before settling 9n you. But we occasionally entertained strangers of animal life, and in one instance, that of an " angelic " order — at least it had wings, and its mission was helpful. Our artist, while casting his line from the apron of the dam. 90 CANOE AND CAMERA. caught it on a projecting beam, and after vain attempts to withdraw it, was successfully assisted by a lit'tle brown fly-catcher, who, swooping down, attempted to carry to its nest the bright-colored artificial trout flies. ^ --.^ ^^ ALLUREMENTS. STUDY OF TROUT— BY THE AUTHOR. National Academy of Design, N. Y. 1877. CHAPTER V. " What time the golden sunset fell, On wood and stream, While we, the loss or gain Recount, and deem The day all glorious with its rents and stains." THE PASSAGE OF WEBSTER STREAM.— AN EXCITING DAY'S SPORT.— THE DAMAGED CANOES.— THE CANVAS BOAT TRI- UMPHANT.— GRAND FALLS.— PHOTOGRAPHING ALONG THE ROUTE.— INDIAN CARRY.— EAST BRANCH OF THE PENOB- SCOT.— MATAGAMONSIS LAKE.— THE DISCOVERY OF A NEW LAKE.— TROUT BROOK FARM.— GRAND OR MATAGAMON LAKE.— A CAPTURED SALMON. St 5.30 A. M., August 20th, our camp was alive with preparations for the long anticipated run down Webster River, ten miles, to the East Branch of the Penobscot and, as it afterwards proved, was the most exciting day's experience of the two hundred mile tour. Blankets, overcoats, and tent were rolled closer than 94 CANOE AND CAMERA. usual, and leather thongs five feet in length, (some three dozen of which I had brought with me,) were tied about them, and safely crowded into the bottom of the long rubber bags. Covers to the various provision boxes and pails were secured with straps and ropes, and every part of the camp kit made to occupy as little room as possible in the four canoes. Rubber leggings and wading shoes were put on, and all unnecessary wearing apparel wrapped in rubber blankets and tied to the boats, that nothing might incommode the free use of our arms in the passage of the falls and cascades of the stream. The stretcher of our canvas boat was fastened to the wooden knees more tightly with thongs, that no possible chance of accident might occur, while the pieces of extra canvas for patch- ing the canoe, with their accompanying needles, wax, and waterproofing, were tied at a convenient place in the bow, and before we had completed the day's adventures we found them of great service. Webster stream is about sixty feet wide, and in its course from the lake of the same name to Grand Falls (two miles above its mouth), descends one hundred and ten feet, while the falls, including the rolling dam and cataract below, make the entire distance to the East Branch of the Penobscot not far short of one hundred and seventy feet. K CANOE AND CAMERA. 97 The stream issues from the lake with little force, being clogged above by a mass of logs, the remnants of various " booms." As it passes downward in its course, heavy walls of I'ock, crowned by tall pines, arise on all sides, often darkening the waters and producing a canon- like a23pearance of the surroundings. The course of the river is over immense bowlders and ledges, often unobservable, just beneath the sui-face, while others in sls^ht stand like sentinels in the middle of the stream, disputing one's passage. The flow is repeatedly marked by beautiful falls and rapids, not high, but crowded together in narrow parts, Avhich give greater ex- pression and grandeur to the water, presenting at various points the most remarkable scenery in this section. Cas- cade succeeds cascade, ending often in an abinipt pitch of three to five feet, and at their base are dark boiling pools, flecked with snowy foam. The river has not great depth of water at any time, three to fiY% feet on the average, but we were fortunate in the extra supply of the last week's rain, which, although it prevented many "carries,' also increased the volume and force of water to that extent that made canoeing more hazardous, and filled our path with greater dangers. The ladened birch canoes had passed us down the river, when the " Quartermaster " and the writei*, buckling 98 CANOE AND CAMERA. their belts tighter about them, stepped lightly into the canvas canoe and swung out into the impetuous river, with feelings similar to what might be expected in one entering a battle. My friend at the stern held a trusty paddle, whose strength had more than once been tried, while the writer, in a devotional attitude on a rubber blanket at the bow, held a long '' setting pole " ready for duty at a moment's notice. In half the time I have nar- rated the above, we w^ere among the furious rapids, bat- tling with their difficulties, and shouting to each other above the roar of the waters, how best to circumvent them. The sun, unfortunately, shone the greater part of the time in our faces, which produced a glimmer on the water, often preventing the discovery of sunken rocks. At one time, while dashing down a cascade, we mounted such a bowlder, and, swinging around, leaped a five-foot fall, stern first, much to our peril. Again, with mighty force we were hurled close to the rocky shore, which only a desperate use of the paddle prevented our striking. At times we were obliged to hold the canoe in the middle of the stream by the long " setting poles," firmly planted in the bottom, while we made our decision regard- ing the better of two channels, the dangers of which there was little choice, then on we went through the rush of wa- GANOE AND CAMERA. 99 ters, our " setting poles" keeping time with our eyes, noting the sunken rocks by the water's upheaval, avoiding this sharp ledge, or that rough bowlder, or swinging into the foam of another as we shot swiftly by. Often with ease we thought to pass a distant rock, but mistaking the velocity of the water, doubled it by a hair's breadth. One fall over which the guides had led their canoes, we ama- teurs passed in the canvas canoe, the water falling in spray about us, but the cheer for our bravery with which we were greeted at its base, paid us well for the risk incurred. At "Pine Knoll" we were obliged to let our canoes over the falls by long ropes from r:_^7:- the cliifs above, and at an- other, soon after, two of the guides, Weller and Morris, passed safely in our canvas boat, on account of its slight draft of water, althou2:h they carriea tne bircn ca- lunch time on webster stream. 100 CANOE AND CAMERA. noes around. So we continued our rapid progress down the stream, running most of the falls, our boat conforming to each situation, and almost seeming a part of us, and tak- ing an interest in our exploits. At noon we stopped for an hour's rest and lunch on the right bank of the stream, and while disposing of hard tack, canned corned beef, and coffee, our artist plied his profession, and then on we went through other perils. It was fearfully fascinating, as our four canoes, follow- ing each other's lead, dashed onward through dangers which we could hardly anticipate before they were passed, only to be repeated and repeated at every mile of the stream. But the stimulant to one's feelings gave strength and courage and even recklessness, which, in the wild sur- roundings, made one feel as if no danger was too great to dare. An hour after our tarry for lunch, we entered the deep and narrow chasm of swift, dark water above Grand Falls, and swinging our canoe into an eddy on the left, under the shadows of a great rock (some ^yq hun- dred feet high), we stepped out on the shore, having com- pleted the excitements of a half -day that many years will fail to erase. Our canoes had suffered less than we had anticipated. A sharp rock had left its mark on Bowley's birch, which the application of rosin and grease soon rectified. The CANOE AND CAMERA. 101 had two small cuts about mid- and thread became necessary, co7}ipaguaii-du-voy age, choosing bottom of the canvas boat ships, so the use of needle the "Quartermaster" and for their modus operamli different sides of the ca- noe, putting the needle back and forth with iron pliers. A few moments' rest, and while the guides were "sacking" the camp kit across " Indian carry," three-quai*ters of a mile to the East Branch (at right angles mth Web- ster stream), we gathered up the artist's cam- era and plates, and pushed forward to examine the pictur- esque beauties of Grand Falls, and catch all we could while the light lasted. Grand Falls is from forty to fifty feet high, seventy it's not all poetry. 102 CANOE AND CAMERA. feet wide, surrounded on all sides, for half a mile, by ledges of iron-colored rocks of nearly the same height, which decrease in altitude as they near the Penobscot River below. From a point beneath, the scene is grand in its somber magnificence, as the swift torrent, striking midway upon a projecting ledge in the center of the fall, rebounds in foam flakes, which, after the momentary in- terruption, continue to fall into the dark whirlpool of water below. We place the tripod upon a prominent ledge, and, mounting the camera, our artist prepares the plates in his mysterious cloth-covered box or " dark room," while we further exclude the light by covering him with our rubber blankets. But the mist and spray blinds us, and we are obliged to gather up the camera and retreat to another ledge before we can operate. The water, of a dark reddish hue, in strong contrast wjth the snowy foam, circles around and around in the eddies, kissing the rocks on all sides in its whirl, and, amid the roar of the fall, goes dashing on for about four hundred feet, and then plunges over a " rolling dam " on its course to the Penobscot, making canoeing the balance of the distance on this river impossible. The light from above, reflecting on the cliff above the fall, glancing with rich beauty on rock and cascade, the CANOE AND CAMERA. 105 fantastic growth of trees on every ledge, make up a fas- cinating cliarm that each succeeding picture varies in de- tail, but which pertains with almost equal force to every part of the entire chasm. While our artist was at work, we busied ourselves gathering the luscious blue and blackberries, and scarlet Avintergreen berries which grew in profusion around us ; they were of great size, the average blueberry being an inch, and the wintergreen berries an inch and a half in circumference — measurement being taken at the time on the spot. After filling a three-quai't pail with berries, we di- vided the artist's " kit " among us, found the " carry," and pressed on to camp, to which place our guides had pre- ceded us with tent and canoes. Supper ended, we again sought the river's bank, a mile belo^v the falls at a place called "the Arches," where, in the radiance of a gorgeous sunset, we again drank to our fill of this picturesque locality. Words fail to de- scribe the beauties of this scene, Avith which even the guides, slow to recognize the attractiveness of nature, Ave re enraptured. " O Nature, how in every charm supreme ! Whose votaries feast on raptures ever new ! O for the voice and fire of seraphim, To sing thy glories wuth devotion due ! '' 106 CANOE AND CAMERA. Around the big camp-fire that night, each narrated his individual experience of the day's adventures, and the hair-breadth escapes in running the rapids. " But," says Bowley, the guide, " you should accom- pany the lumbermen ^ on the drive,' and see the perils they run while starting a ' jam ' on these rivers. Often the logs are piled one upon another, until it seems as if nothing but an avalanche would start them. But one log is loosened, and then another, and another, and in a moment the whole mass goes sweeping down stream with terrific force, and woe betide the unlucky ' driver ' in its path." From the first of the trip to this moment, the guides had failed to praise the working of the canvas canoe, as it came in competition with their birch barks. But this day's trial proved beyond question its qualities, and wrung from them an acknowledgment they were not slow to utter. " It was fun to watch you, gentlemen," says Morris, to the Quartermaster and myself, as we sat drying our- selves before the fire, " you came over the ' rips ' like a per- fect duck. I don't believe you could drown the craft if you tried." While the French Canadian, AVeller, taking the pipe from his mouth, ejaculated, '^Ma fois ! she goes over the falls like a chain over a log ! " CANOE AND CAMERA. 109 On Thursday, August 21st, we wet our canoes for the Urst time in the East Branch of the Penobscot river. A BOOM. although from Chamberlin lake to this point it is strictly a part of the same stream under different names. The river at this spot is only about fifteen feet wide, very deep, with long meadow grass lapping and fringing its border, and flowing with the rapidity of a mill course, each bubble as it shot by seeming to have an individ- uality of purpose, which to the writer was very amusing. 110 CANOE AND CAMERA. Hardly had we dropped into our accustomed posi- tions in the canoes before we were swept away from the bank, past the tall alders, and darted with lightning speed down the river a mile and a half and out on to the placid Matagamonsis lake. This was one of the loveliest bodies of water on our course, dotted with small islands and far-reaching points of shore, the tall Norway pines forming a wall of beauty on either side. The lake is about one mile wide and four long, and the spruce-covered tops of Traveler mountains to the southwest are reflected in its mirror-like surface. From the top of a bold crag at its foot we stopped for a sketch of the lake, and then passed downward through the sluggish stream of three miles which connects it with Matagamon or Grand lake. To the left or east of this stream, and half way be- tween these lakes, is another lake about two miles in extent, which we fail to find noticed on any map we have seen, and lies in close proximity to " Hay creek," but is not what is termed in this section " a logan." (See In- troduction, page 15.) Half a mile from this lake, the stream passes under a foot bridge, which leads to a farm on Trout Brook stream, the first loggers' camp since leaving Chamberlin farm, a distance of over seventy-five miles. DISCOVERY OF A NEW LAKE, CANOE AND CAMERA. 113 TMs farm, owned by E. S. Coe, Es(|., of Bangor, con- sists of four houses built close together, and eight or ter barns, with about four hundred acres of cleared land, through which flows the swift-running trout brook. Half a dozen batteaux lay turned over on the grass, bounteous crops of oats and potatoes were ripening in the fields, while the industrious chicken (e\ddence of civilization) was picking about the doors. The house where our party dined was occupied by a man and his wife and one small boy. The rooms to this house were low and smoky, like all the rest we had seen, with the big iron box stove in the center ; the only change 114 CA:N0E AND CAMERA. from the usual wall decoration was perceived in an adver- tisement of Pinafore opera music, wliich, pasted beside the other illustrations, made us feel quite homesick. After dinner at the house, our party bade our new- found friends adieu, and paddled down the Thoroughfare into Grand or Matagamon lake, which is about one-third longer than Lake Matagamonsis, and went into camp at its foot, on the right bank, near another old dam. The eastern shore of this lake (the largest body of water on our course since leaving Chamberlin lake) is not especially attractive to the artist, being low and covered with meadow grass. But the western is decidedly pictur- esque, being bold and rocky, which, climbing from eleva- tion to elevation, finally culminates in the precipitous and rugged peak of Matagamon mountain, towering above one's head to the height of six hundred feet, and is almost divested of foliage. We halted but one night on this lake, but were well rewarded by the number and size of the fine trout captured, adding also to our creel a small salmon. OUR SALMON. CHAPTER Vl. " By viewing nature, Nature's handmaid, art, Makes mighty things from small beginnings grow. Thus, fishes first to shipping did impart Their tail the rudder, and their head the prow/' DANGER OF WANDERING FROM CAMP.— AN EXPERIENCE ON LAKE SUPERIOR.— THE FALLS OF THE EAST BRANCH.— STAIR FALLS.— INCIDENTS OF CAMP LIFE.— AN ENCHANTED BOWER.— HUNT'S FARM.— AN ARTIST'S CANOE.— THE AS- CENT OF HUNT'S MOUNTAIN.— A REVERIE.— WHETSTONE FALLS.— DISCOVERY OF JASPER ON LEDGE FALLS.— DAWN OF CIVILIZATION.— MATTAWAMKEAG.— THE EAST BRANCH CANVAS-ED. JL OFTEN thouglit how easily one could stray from camp, and, if without a compass, be lost in this wilder- ness. While hunting on Lake Superior one autumn, some years since, I endured such an experience, and the bitter- ness of it has always remained fresh in my memory. While passing over the corduroy road of thirteen and a half llg CANOE AND CAMERA. miles whicli lies between tlie town of Ontonagon, Mich., and tlie Minnesota copper mines, my attention was al- lured from tlie road by the melodious whir-r-r-r, whir-r-r-r of a brace of partridges. Stepping aside into the thicket, I followed as fast as possible the retreating sound, and after a tedious tramp through briers and swamp I finally brought them to bag. In the excitement of the chase, I had given little or no heed to the path, or to the clouds that were fast gathering overhead. Starting back in the direction I supposed the road, I traveled, it seemed to me, double the distance that would have revealed it, but no familiar path did I find. In fact, I was amazed in discovering that I was back on the same ground on which I had started. There was no reason in the thing, — no reasoning against it. The points of the compass had been as clear in my head as if I saw the needle, but the moment I was back, all seemed to be wrong. The sun, which occasionally revealed itself, shone out of the wrong part of the heavens. I climbed one of the tall trees, but the very stillness of the land- scape on which I gazed seemed to mock me. I was not a novice in woodcraft, and could follow a trail readily. I examined the bark of the trees to see which side was the roughest, and then, singling out a number, judged of the points of the compass by the way CANOE A^D CAMERA. 119 the majority leaned, and plunging into the thicket made another and another attempt. I well knew the danger of losing my self-control, and, sitting down on a log, I covered my face with my hands and waited until I felt calm and self-possessed again. I have no idea how long it was, but when I arose the sun was nearly obliterated by the clouds, which soon began to discharge their contents in sympathy for my ill luck, and to reach my destination I must make all speed. I immediately struck a " bee line " in the direction which my reveries had designated as the right path, blazing the trees with my hunting-knife as I hastened along. Soon I espied an opening, and, dashing onward, what was my joy to find the old corduroy road, which never looked more welcome in its life. From Grand lake to the junction of the East with the West branch of the Penobscot it is sixty to seventy- five miles, the river being shut in on all sides by lofty mountains, or heavy belts of grand old forests, through which the swift river tumbles, with only an occasional suggestion of the lumberman's axe. There are eleven conspicuous falls in this interval, varying from twenty to sixty feet in height, while the charming cascades are too numerous to mention. The abrupt descents bear the names of Stair, Haskell Rock, 120 CANOE AND CAMERA. Grand, Pond Pitch, Hulling Machine, Bowling, Spring Brook Gravel Bed, Whetstone, Grindstone, Crowfoot, and Ledge Falls, their names, in many cases, suggesting their wild and rugged formation. The water swept so swiftly through this section that with the exception of the last twenty miles it was hardly necessary to use our pad- dles, but, keeping an eye to the rocks in our path, we could silently enjoy the many lovely changes con- stantly opening in the landscape. But this also was decidedly the hardest part of the entire excursion. — At most of these falls, our whole -^.^ ON THE EAST BRANCH. camp equipage, pro- visions, and canoes had to be " sacked " around the falls from one to two miles, and in many cases there was hard climbing along the steep, rocky sides of the mountains CANOE AND CAMERA. 121 wMcli followed the river's course, while each one of us carried his portion of the load. For two and a half miles after leaving Grand lake one is constantly reminded of the day's experience on Webster stream by the furious rapids, and we were again obliged to call into action our " setting poles." In a drenching rain, we were twice compelled to land on the shore, take the canvas boat into our laps and sew the cuts in its surface^ laughing at the philosophical manner with which we submitted to the circumstance. Along the river's bank to the west, for many miles, are the lovely Traveler mountains, whose rambling ap- pearance and daily companionship are fully represented by their name. Stair Falls the " Quartermaster" and myself ran in our canvas canoe, but the guides, tending their birches as if they Avere glass, dropped them from step to step by means of ropes. This fall or cascade is a series of steps or stairs some ^Ye in number, each about three feet high and ten feet apart, the best passage being through the channel near the left bank. It is a very choice bit of scenery, and one that any artist would greatly desire to transfer to canvas and work into endless variety of composition. A ten-mile passage of the swift river, and Ave reached Grand 122 CANOE AND CAMERA. falls, whicli, altbougli higher than its namesake on Web- ster river, being followed immediately by numerous cata- racts did not so impress one. Here we were obliged to make a portage of three- fourths of a mile through the dense woods to the foot of the falls, and^ in a heavy shower, went into camp on the opposite shore. To the " camper-out " a rainy day in the woods is among the most disagreeable experiences,even under a tight tent, with good company and plenty of amusement. But the dif- ficulties in- ^I^^^^^ crease by be- ^^^=r- ing forced to ^"^ be out in the DROPPING CANOES OVER THE FALLS. storm, and to leave your canoe at a portage and obliged to carry on your back through mud and mire all your camp effects. Through the woods you stumble, pressing the wet CANOE AND CAMERA. 123 branches aside, which in their recoil push away your rubber clothing, from which the buttons are fast disap- '^ r{kCd^U