The Sportsman's Handbook to PRACTICAL COLLECTING ifornia mal ity THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. {All rights reserved.'] THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK TO PRACTICAL COLLECTING, PRESERVING, AND ARTISTIC SETTING-UP OF TROPHIES AND SPECIMENS. TO -WHICH IS ADDED A Synoptical Guide to the Hunting Grounds of the World. By KOWLAND WAKD, F.Z.S. THE AUTHOR, 166, PICCADILLY. SIMPKIN, MAESHALL, & CO., STATIONERS HALL COURT. 1880. ClllKLliS DICKENS AJfD LVAJfS, CBYSTAL PALACE PKESS. gook is ilebicat^b to THE REVERED MEMORY OF THE LATE HENRY WARD, OF LOXDOX, (MY FATHER), WHOSE EMINENCE AS A PEACTICAL TAXIDERMIST, AMD AS TRAVELLER, SPORTSMAN, AND NATURALIST, I PRIZE LIKE AN INHERITANCE, AND AFFECTIONATELY EMULATE. ROWLAND WARD. PREFACE. I HAVE made an endeavour, by the following pages, to present for the sportsman-naturalist some informa- tion that may be valuable to him as derived solely from experience either the accumulated experience of my family, of whom I am now the only representative in our profession, or the carefully collected experience of others in those parts of the subject where my own work has not carried me. My grandfather was a practical naturalist ; my father, the late Henry Ward, became eminent in the same way, but with some remarkable advantages, having travelled much in pursuit of his profession in both hemispheres, and notably as the companion of Audubon, when that distinguished man was so greatly enriching and ex- tending the field of natural history. My brother, Edwin Ward, late of 49, Wigmore Street, London, was one of the best known and most skilful operators in artistic taxidermy that we have ever had in this country. I have had the benefit of his advice and help, and have been greatly assisted, moreover, by the information given me by many travellers and true Vlll PREFACE. sportsmen. It has been my object to avoid mere speculative opinion, and to make the book as concise as might be. It is only in comparatively recent times that taxidermy has been elevated to claim any real art position. What has been gained for it has not been achieved by mere skill, but by extended and more accurate observation of nature in its living forms of the behaviour and habits of animals, not simply ex- amination of their carcases, or what remained of those. Such observation, carefully and correctly recorded, is invaluable to the naturalist who seeks, by the pre- servation unimpaired of the natural features of an animal, to use the verisimilitude so obtained as an aid to art illustration. The material means for such a result are indeed important ; but something more may be done with a prepared group of animals, or a single specimen, than preservation for the identification of details in anatomy or of outward appearance. Its value to the student may be preserved and increased by displaying its beauty truthfully to life, while the beauty is recognised for its own sake by even the unscientific. This is the cause I advocate, and the end I have in view. R. W. May 12th, 1880. THE SPOKTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. INTRODUCTORY. IN starting from this or any other country on an expedition for collecting, that is likely or certain to separate him from the means and conveniences that he can command for money in settled and civilised communities, it is all important for the explorer or sportsman to provide himself carefully with everything he may want. But it is more important still that in doing so, he be able to define what his real wants are, and restrict the satisfaction of even these with skill to the smallest proportions. He should therefore quite judiciously consider what he really does need that it is desirable he should take with him, because he cannot obtain it so well elsewhere ; but it is not well to imagine possible difficulties or wants, and endeavour to provide for them particularly. In regard to most of the apparatus, simplicity is to real usefulness like his skin is to a nigger. Attention should be paid to appropriateness of dress, but always with the recollec- 2 THE BPOETSMAN'B HANDBOOK. tion that in this respect a small modicum of native experience in any country is worth any amount of speculation out of it. That observation may also apply to most of the shifts and expedients of camp life. The well recorded experiences of good sports- men, who have gone in similar fields before, are of infinite value to instruct ; not for the simplicity of servile imitation in particulars, since the conditions may entirely differ, but as exemplifying the principles on which given means were applied to certain ends. Important factors in the consideration of these ques- tions are the strength, stature, and constitution of the sportsman himself. The progress of invention has of late years strengthened the position of the sportsman in respect of his armament, especially as regards great and dangerous game. He has wide choice of excellent weapons. In quite recent times this abundant facility has a little vexed the question, and some good sports- men think they recognise the obtrusion of not indeed a fresh element, but more prominence for it the endeavour to cloak deficiency of skill by increase of mere mechanical power in dealing with great game. In reality, the conditions have not changed for the true sportsman, who seeks rather an exercise of his skill and courage than the silly vanity of copious butchery. Indifferent ability may find compensation of a kind in that, but hardly the admiration of the judicious. In selecting particular weapons, each man will follow his bent; but on some points there is a consensus of opinion among good men that should strongly influence: That in the hands of a true sports- man of fine skill the chosen weapon for dangerous game should be light in relation to his personal AFPAEATUS. 3 strength; so that his ability to wield it easily may be without doubt : The " Express " rifle, on account of its easy carriage and manipulation, its power for in- ternal wounding, its accuracy and extended point- blank range, is lauded by many as all-sufficient for ordinary game : For large game and dangerous animals a heavier bore is of course requisite, but one of not excessive capacity is considered sufficient for credit in good hands : The weapons should be carefully suitable to the stature of the sportsman, and to his length of reach, etc. There are some details, too, that have much to do with success indeed, are almost, in such circumstances, a condition precedent of it viz., the temper (hardness) of the ball, shot, or missile, the quality of the powder, and the quantum of the charge. These points should have careful attention. Expe- rience on the field is the only true guide (our own or others'), and experiments are only valuable according to the conditions. Although sportsmen among great game have at all times had only such arms to deal with as they at the time possessed sometimes arms that seem now quite primitive in comparison with modern weapons the testing by sportsmen of such arms in real action is the only true test; indeed, eye and hand, as confident agents of undisturbed skilful judgment, are as important active forces for the result as the powder that utilises the best made missile, or the most accurate bore of any index. The gentleman who can, without erring, do all that is prescribed to clamped boards and puddled clay on an English sward, might find his calculations disturbed by the short rush of a rogue elephant, the sudden deadly spring of a tiger, or the oncoming of a heavy buffalo, who has at last become convinced that only one course is open to him. B 2 4 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. The sooner the sportsman realises that his opera- tions with great game cannot be reduced to the symmetry of a game of chess, the better will he be able to best guard his own safety and create success for himself on whatever field he may turn his attention to. In fact, nothing can be of more value to him in those circumstances than quick apprehensiveness, delicate tact, strong cool courage, and exquisite skill in the accurate use of his weapon. But underneath all this should lie a knowledge of what experience and investigation has taught us of how best to achieve our end; and one important phase of this knowledge is, how and where is it best to strike the game in a vital part, or in such way that the animal may be disabled. And here it must be remarked that no amount of book instruction will equal a small amount of experience ; therefore it is well, when the game is killed and comes to be cut up, always to make a sufficient special investigation as to the course of your bullet in regard to its effect on the vital parts. In order to make clear what is the position of these points, some diagrams of animals representative of species are given, and on them the points are indi- cated. It may be said generally that the brain and the heart are the real organs to injure with vital effect ; but to these must be added the spinal column. Now with different species of animals, in various cir- cumstances, the conditions under which these parts can be reached vary considerably. We may consider the animals in two classes : (a) those that are dangerous, (6) those that are not seriously dangerous. These may again be divided into (c) animals that are in natural condition unsuspicious, or quiescent; (d) animals in- furiate, aggressive, charging. To speak first of the VITAL SHOTS. 5 Felidce. The place to hit a lion, if you are quite sure of your aim, as you may be if he is quiescent, is undoubtedly the brain. Now with tiger as well as lion, the brain is about the size of an apple, and small in comparison to the bony structure; the brain-pan is located about three or four inches to the rear of the eye (vide diagram). The heart is also indicated, and when the animal is broadside on, it can be pierced by a shot behind the shoulder. When he is charging direct towards you, the best shot to deliver is a little to the right or left of the head, straight through the shoulder ; by this you may perhaps pierce his heart, or possibly fracture the spinal cord ; the bullet may traverse the body lengthwise with paralysing effect, or it will which is most important shatter the shoulder-bone and prevent his deadly spring. The rhinoceros is best killed by piercing the brain, or by fracture of the spinal cord. The brain is surely found in the region below the ear. The sportsman's position in regard to the animal will determine the possibility of 6 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK his reaching the spinal cord. The hide of the Indian rhinoceros is harder than that of the African species, but on the living beast is easily permeable by hardened bullets ; still, where there is room for choice, it is best to shoot between the folds. In certain circumstances the charge of a Cape buffalo or a gaur is among the most dangerous ex- periences of the sportsman. The same general obser- vations apply; but the neck and shoulder shot is to be preferred. In regard to the elephant, there is a great difference between the African and the Indian. The skull of the first is convex in frontal form, while that of the Asiatic variety is concave. The brain is wonder- fully small in comparison to the bony matter by which it is protected. The average weight of an elephant's brain is, say, nine pounds, which is but a fraction of the weight of the bone. The Asiatic elephant may be well shot dead while charging, if pierced in his fore- head; but a similar shot would not be efficacious with the African. The brain of these creatures is VITAL SHOTS. 7 protected by a mass of cellular bone, which cannot well be pierced by a bullet, unless it be directed through the orifice of the ear. If he be charging towards you, the best shot is in the chest. The position of heart and brain is marked in the diagram. When an African elephant is undisturbed, his great ear will furnish a sure direction for a deadly shot. Aim at the central portion of the outer edge. The hippopotamus if shot when he rises to the surface of the water, should receive the bullet up his nostril; that is the surest road to his brain. When stricken the beast sinks, and it may be an hour or two before his body rises ; the time depends greatly on the temperature of the water. If he is shot on the shore, his heart should be aimed at behind the shoulder, half-way up his body in the line of his leg the general rule. The seal should be shot in the brain, but the locality of his brain is very deceiving. It is 8 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. peculiarly back toward the neck, as shown in the drawing. For collecting some small animals and birds, shot- guns of selected gauge, throwing appropriate shot, that need not be particularised here, are requisite. A more humble, but in its degree an equally useful implement for the collector, and one which he can employ to remarkable advantage, is the blow-pipe. Some savage races use this weapon for it can be made by skill veritably a weapon with as- tounding accuracy of aim and certainty of effect. In taking a lesson from them it is not necessary to misapply the means to any purpose for which the gun is more appropriate. But the collector will soon experience that, for many small specimens, he can use a blow-pipe with effect APPARATUS. 9 where he may not be able to use firearms. The imple- ment is so simple and so easily constructed that the price of it is inappreciable. About three feet length of any straight metal or wooden tubing, f -inch dia- meter, through which a pellet the size of a marble may be thrown, will serve well, but an even longer tube may be chosen. The pellet should be of clay or any putty, rolled in the hand to easily pass through the barrel without too much windage. It should not touch the mouth, but be lightly placed just in the orifice, by stopping which with the thumb the tube can be conveniently carried loaded, muzzle up, ready for the most rapid use. To propel the pellet, the puff must be sudden and powerful. There is a proper way of effecting this. When a practitioner first begins to use the blow-pipe, it is a common error to eject the breath only direct from the lungs ; he should acquire the habit of inflating his cheeks, so as to make a storage of wind, as it were, for each shot ; that, added to the breath from the lungs, gives a force that will sometimes astonish him. The hand follows the eye in aim, and practice will often develop unthought-of proficiency. The particular uses of the blow-pipe are these : that its operation is silent and does not disturb, it is effective for small and mode- rate-sized birds not on the wing, it is easily manipu- lated in a wood, it is easily obtainable anywhere, and the ammunition costs nothing. The question of traps, snares, etc., is one which more concerns the collector or trader than the sports- man. Many specimens can of course be collected by these means. A man's own taste will rule him in the adoption of them better than any precept or instruction. There are many ingenious devices used in America, Scandinavia, and other fields for the capture of game 10 TEE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. of all sizes, or the destruction of them rather. It will be found, however, that the ordinary gin, of whatever size it may be made, remains the really most efficacious of all such contrivances. The employment of dummies and decoys for birds, and especially for shore-birds, is interesting and useful. Probably in all parts of the world ingenuity can adapt this resource in degree. As a rule gregarious birds are those most subject to the fascination, for such it is. To give examples in our own country wood-pigeons can be attracted thus : Any carpenter can make the shape of a wood-pigeon in rough; no legs need be shaped, but a stick should project from the lower part of the breast, so that the dummy can be fixed on the ground, or placed in a tree, as may be required ; this figure must be painted in colour to represent the pigeon, and the paint must be " flatted," that is, not glossy. It is astonishing how the wild birds will come down to their haunts when they see this dummy there to assure them. In like manner plovers, gulls, and similar shore-birds may be- decoyed. The decoy-duck is made buoyant to rest on the water, and is well known. Verisimilitude in regard to action is a great gain sometimes with theselast-named, and is more important than mere details of feather. The following may be adduced as an instance of this : I once employed a decoy to deceive some sporting companions. They were looking for a shot in the evening twilight, and I provided one for them by hastily making a dab-chick of a bung, two wine-corks,, and some wire. This rude image would float upright when ballasted with a stone at the end of a string ; to this string I attached a live roach, and set the whole afloat under his guidance down the edge of some tempting reeds. The progress and occasional plunging APPARATUS. 11 of the fish communicated the most natural action to the dummy, and it received the complimentary re- cognition of many ounces of well-directed shot, until, being well killed, the cork was secured, and not added to the bag. This may afford a hint that can be utilised by ingenuity where it seems to be a gain. An useful part of the sportsman's kit is a photo- graphic camera. This sounds alarming, as suggestive of bulk and weight, and inconvenient dabbling with scientific minutice, and perhaps dirty chemicals ; but, in truth, none of those fears need be realised. The whole apparatus can be contained in a small case eight inches each way. The tripod-stand an im- portant part is made to fold into a stave two feet long, about two inches thick. The sensitive plates are dry and prepared ready for use before leaving home ; the inconvenience of properly using them, if there be any inconvenience in developing the picture, is reduced to a minimum, in no sense commensurate with the gratification derived or the value of the work. An animal may be photographed with its surroundings, just as it fell ; the picture may be made a nucleus of interesting and most instructive memoranda, of obvious value because such details are too often forgotten, or the impression made by them effaced, just in proportion as we move from the spot. Photographic pictures of living ferce naturae, in their native jungle or forest, have indeed been thus taken, and hundreds of sea- birds on the wing wheeling over an Indian headland, have been reproduced with the most accurate repre- sentation of individual birds, so that when magnified the picture presents the perfect specimen for our con- templation our more leisurely examination in fact than if we had witnessed them in their flight. These 12 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. are enormous advantages to gain if they be rightly estimated and used. The dry plates, in favourable circumstances, require only a second's exposure for a picture. They need not even be developed on the spot, if inconvenient; the undeveloped negative will keep good for months. The most portable plates are those four inches by three inches ; they are sufficiently large for most useful purposes, though of course larger plates for larger pictures can be carried. It is all important that the camera and apparatus should be good, the tripod true and firm. The knives or other implements should be as few and simple as is consistent with meeting the real need efficiently; a tiger can be perfectly skinned by a skilful hand with a shoemaker's knife, price threepence- halfpenny. It is highly important that some prepara- tion should be made for efficient and accurate record of scientific data, concerning natural features that are [evanescent, such as colour of the eye, of a bird's bill and legs, etc. ; but it is not too much to say that the whole of such apparatus may, by well considered ingenuity, be carried in the compass of a case whose capacity is measured in a few inches. It must be borne in mind before all things, that the value of any object secured and preserved depends on the com- pleteness with which all its natural features are saved, as well as the condition in which they are kept. This is true in degree for whatever purpose the object be designed, but it is essential in regard to specimens for the illustration of natural history. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS FOR THE COLLECTOR. DIRECTLY a specimen is secured inspect the eye, and make a concise memorandum of its colour and any peculiarity of its appearance. A similar note should be taken of any colour on the bills, legs, etc., of birds (the brilliancy of which may fade), and particular note should be preserved of eyelids, the colour of them, if they have colour ; and the same may be said of wattles and all such features of naked skin, because most frequently when these parts dry, the colours not only fade, but change sometimes absolutely ; and the taxidermist at home may be led to a wrong conclu- sion. Never omit, and never defer the making of these memoranda, or instant decision on the necessity for it. It is better that specimens of all warm-blooded creatures should be cold before they are operated on. In dealing with birds care should be taken, directly they are shot, that the plumage be not broken, or injured by putting many of them together in a bag ; and that the blood from one fresh specimen does not injure another. Instantly plug up with cotton wool the throat, nostrils, and all shot holes. Rare examples can 14 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. be isolated in a cone of paper, or otherwise, as soon as they are secured. It is often a scientific gain to save at least the sternum or breastbone, with the caracoids, tlbefurcula (merry-thought), and scapula of birds, and the skull when the skin is not saved. Pay particular and unvarying attention to the ticketing of specimens. Tickets of convenient, durable material should be provided. Note thereon : Date ; a number ; where killed; native name; scientific names; sex; habitat; habits observed, as to the eye, etc. ; and peculiarities of colour. Any other peculiarities, or facts noticed. To sex a bird, examine the inner regions of the loins, and if male mark it <$ , and if female thus ? . This question of ticketing, and the preparation of the ticket is all important. There is little, if any doubt, that the brilliant colours on a fresh, healthy specimen, at the moment it falls, are always deteriorated, sometimes altered, under treatment by any preserva- tive. Therefore, when the "colours" are noted, if possible, the collector should always put on his ticket a blot of water-colour pigment as near as may be, to reproduce the brightness and quality of the tint. This may need some ingenuity, but will be found not COLLECTING. 15 difficult ; a few cakes of water-colour and a brush take little space; the gain by this record will be great. The sexing is of much consequence ; to determine it, where necessary, involves a slight dissection, when the appearances will be found as on page 14. Corresponding tickets to those on the skins, etc., should be attached firmly to skulls, horns, bones, etc., and saved so that exact identification may be easy and certain. Be as forethoughtful as possible in all operations ; and be careful that no blood or grease, or juices from the offal, injure the feathers or fur. It is generally far better to attend to the preserving of your own specimens, than to trust to native agents or servants; if you are compelled to trust to them at all, never sanction the use of lime in the materials they employ, even as a small constituent. Some natural substances (berries, etc.), used by natives, will change colour on specimens ; the yellow ground of a leopard skin may be thus changed to reddish brown, etc. PROCESSES OF PRESERVATION. IN regard to the preservation for after treatment of the skins of great game, it would be easy here to quote many recipes of approved efficiency, and, in given circumstances, not open to doubt. But, for the particular conditions of the explorer, the simplest pro- cess that is safe and good is the best. I think that the materials carried may be reduced to two, viz. a quantity of dry powdered alum and a supply of spirits of turpentine. How these should be applied I shall presently explain. For the treatment of bird-skins a supply of arsenical soap should be carried. It can be compounded of the following ingredients : Camphor 5 ozs. "White Arsenic, in powder ... 2 Ibs. Yellow Soap 2 Ibs. Lime, in powder ... ... ... 4 ozs. Melfc the soap completely by heat in a small quantity of water, and add the lime ; then remove it from the fire and stir in the arsenic; next add the camphor, previously rubbed to powder with a little spirits of wine, and mix the whole thoroughly, till it has the consistence of paste. Preserve it in carefully closed glazed vessels, labelled " Poison." To use it, mix the quantity required with cold water to the consistence of clear soup, and apply it with a brush to the inside of the skins. There are two methods of preserving animals, or the skins of animals, on the spot where they are collected till they can be transmitted for definite treatment by skilled practitioners at home: viz. (1) by means of preservative applications, so that natural decay and the ravages of insects, etc., may be pre- PRESERVATION. 17 vented ; (2) by immersion and packing of specimens, on proper[principles, in spirit, or in pickle. Convenience and obvious desirability will rule the adoption of either plan, and the application of it to particular specimens. Animals taken whole can be dissected ; and examples of absolutely new species, or specimens of rare occur- rence, may, at discretion, be transmitted thus with many advantages. Generally pickle, or brine, preserves natural colours of specimens better than spirit. PRESERVATIVES ON THE FIELD. The skins of all mam- malia, of fish, and of reptiles can be efficiently preserved for transmission home, by the simple dry alum process; but the skins of birds should be treated with arsenical soap. These resources, simple as they are, will be found sufficient, and they have this distinct advantage, that in the ultimate treatment of the specimen for permanent keeping, there are fewer difficulties to be surmounted by the skilled naturalist or the curer of skins. When salt, for instance, is used, or the lime of native Indian dressers (the most destructive in the world), or the vegetable curing of the Australian skins, there is often more trouble to take out of the pelt the deleterious sub- stance, so that the process of decay may be stopped, than the specimen is worth. The skins of birds must not be treated with alum, or they become fatally brittle; the arsenical soap has a contrary effect, and softens the skin. All specimens or examples of either genus must be protected from the ravages of insects ; and to do this the simplest means is the copious and judicious application of spirit of turpentine ; but this must not be applied to birds, because it dissolves the grease that is more or less found in every bird-skin, and thus the metallic colours of plumage become permanently robbed of their brilliancy, and birds of white plumage 18 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK are soiled by a yellowish stain. Where, however, there are no metallic colours to be preserved, the advantage of turpentine as a preservative may be gained, if it be applied lightly and with skill to the surface of the feathers, and not poured over the skin, as we might do with the skin of a mammal. The best way is to apply it with a saturated pad of cotton wool. THE ALUM PROCESS. The material to be employed is powdered burnt alum. When the skin of a mammal has been removed, the very first thing to do, without loss of time, is to {t flesh it," which means to carefully clean the pelt of all superfluous flesh or fat. This having been done, spread the skin hair downwards and peg it out flat, unless you have a frame or other better mechanical means of stretching it. Of course of small animals in some portions of which the bone is retained for instance the leg the skin must not be pegged out ; and indeed where means exist of avoiding it, do not " peg out >} at all, as the skin is always somewhat injured by that process, and sometimes is irreparably torn, therefore avoid such injuries if you can. The fact of drying induces shrinkage; so arrange your skin that as it shrinks it cannot wrinkle into folds, for in those, if anywhere, the ravages of insects will lie. In cold climates, perhaps, pegging and stretching may be avoided altogether. The skin having been spread out flat with the pelt uppermost, proceed to rub in the alum. This should be done with the hand carefully to cover every portion, and the supply of alum should not be stinted. It must be particularly applied to the lips, ears, feet, and other fleshy parts that have been pre- pared in skinning to receive the preservative (see p. 30). The whole pelt having been treated thus by hand, sprinkle it with the alum till it is regularly and well covered. The skin should be left thus until it is PRESERVATION. 19 dry, and it will be found that the astringent alum will dry it with rapidity. But during this time it is most necessary to watch it well, so that if there appear a tendency in any part of it to " taint," which would cause the hair to "slip" or come off, the preservative may be instantly applied on the hair side as well as the pelt wherever requisite. When the skin is dry it must be conveniently folded, hair side inwards, for packing, that is if it be of large game and requires folding. First turn the hair side up and pour turpentine freely over it till the skin is thoroughly anointed. Note that with long-haired animals the turpentine reach the roots of the hair ; sprinkle the pelt side ; but it is not necessary to anoint that so fully as the fur. It is well, when convenient, to put some dry material in the folds to prevent contact between the inside of the skin and the fur ; and, as occasion may serve, the skin should be unfolded and inspected, and more turpentine or preservative applied to parts if necessary. In the process just described the astringent alum is applied to preserve the skin, and the turpentine to protect it against insects. The ravages of these pests in a hot climate, such as India, are indescribably vexatious, and must be carefully guarded against. The principal of all the marauders is a beetle about a quarter of an inch long, of a dark dirty colour with a transverse band of dull yellow; he does not often fly, being generally more busily engaged on carefully collected skins ; but he can fly. His common name and his scientific name are " The Bacon Beetle;" or Dermestes Ladratus ; but as c 2 20 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. he is so veritable an enemy it is best not to rely on his cognomen, but on instant recognition for immediate ex- termination, therefore his portrait life-size is given on page 19. Now this insect does not like any spirit; but the one spirit he really dreads as fatal to his constitu- tion is turpentine. In the colder climates benzine and similar spirits are sometimes used and with efficacy, but these evaporate more rapidly in warmer temperature, and turpentine, if only because of its less rapid evapo- ration, is at all times to be preferred. I have sometimes unpacked trophies to discover the hair entirely removed from the pelt by the exertions of the Dermestes ; and in like manner I have received skulls in London that have been imperfectly cleaned of flesh, from which I have shaken hundreds upon hundreds of fattened lively specimens. I gave them the turpentine they should have had in India. Sometimes they will recover activity after the milder influence of benzine. The alum process is quite sufficient for Pachydermata. PICKLE. Another process that is frequently most convenient on shipboard, or, according to the con- ditions, is that of "pickling." The skin having been removed from the carcase and cleaned, instead of being laid out for drying, should be thickly covered over the flesh side with powdered alum, the lips, eyelids, feet, etc., being particularly treated; then it should be folded in a convenient form, and thus be immersed in a barrel of brine, or what is technically called "liquor" in fact, parts of alum and salt dissolved in water, in the proportion of 6 Ibs. of alum and 3 Ibs. of salt, sea salt if possible. Dissolve both in a small quantity of hot water sufficient to make a gallon, and let the liquid cool before the specimen is immersed. The skin must be sweet and fresh at the PRESERVATION. 21 time of placing it in pickle, or the operation will not succeed. The vessel must be kept closed. A number of skins may be placed in the same barrel, which is then ready, when quite filled, and closed, for storing, or for transit. If thought more convenient to make the package lighter for travelling, the skins can, when they have been thoroughly pickled for a few days, be taken out, spread open and dried, then repacked. This, however, is an operation requiring obviously great judgment, as if it be imperfectly carried out the consequence may be ruinous. A conspicuous exemplification of the advantages in this process of brine-pickling, was afforded by the great elephant trophy brought from South Africa by H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh. In this case the system was adopted in manner following : The entire skin of the mighty beast was preserved. The animal was undoubtedly one of the largest examples ever brought to this country of the African species. His height at the withers was 10 ft. ; from tip of trunk to tip of tail, 23 ft. 5 in. ; girth, 16 ft. 6 in. ; from top of head to end of trunk, 11 ft. 3 in. ; circumference of head, 10 ft. ; from ear to ear, 9 ft. ; length of ear, 4 ft. 6 in. The skull and tusks weighed more than 3 cwt. ; the skin of the head when taken from pickle, weighed 3 cwt. 6 Ibs. The weight of the whole skin when taken from pickle, was 20 cwt. 7 Ibs. The weight of the entire elephant in the flesh was 4 tons 8 cwt. 4 Ibs. On the field the skin, having been duly prepared, was folded in this wise : the flanks with skin of legs and feet were folded inwards, each half-way, so that the inner surfaces or flesh side were outwards ; then the skin of the head was in like manner turned back, the trunk being disposed of longitudinally down the centre 22 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. between the edges of the flanks ; and the tail end with nether extremities was similarly folded back to meet the trunk. The whole skin was then rolled as tightly as possible round the head, and carefully tied at both ends of the bale. In this condition it was placed in a great barrel which was then completely filled with liquor, and properly coopered for transmission to this country. On arrival in London, when the head of the barrel was removed, the perfect success of this mode of transport was at once apparent. There was no unpleasant odour. On taking out the mass and unfolding the skin, it was noticeable that every part of the surfaces had been properly acted on, and there PRESERVATION. 23 was not a single tainted fold. At that time it had been upwards of a year in the barrel. The old pickle was removed, the skin was refolded and restored to the barrel with a supply of fresh liquor, and the cask was re-coopered. In this manner the skin was preserved for upwards of three years more, until the decision as to how this great trophy should be treated was arrived at. The magnificent head was mounted, and is now in Clarence House; the feet (which supply an index of his size) were utilised for ornamental purposes, while the hide was cut up and converted to use; a considerable portion being made into walking sticks, that formed appropriate mementoes. The skulls of large mammalia are always removed from the skins. It is important for the proper preser- vation of the skulls of Felidce, that they should be protected from injury to, or loss of, the teeth. This is best done as follows : When the skull has been boiled (not too much or it loosens the sutures) or soaked, and properly cleaned, and the teeth painted with wash about half-an-inch thick, it should be tied up in a calico bag and placed in a separate compartment of the packing-case designed for it. Stuffing should moreover be put into each compartment to prevent the specimen from being shaken, and so injured. The wash for teeth mentioned above can be well made of wax; as the tooth dries it often splits up, the bony structure as well as the enamel ; wax tends to prevent this action. It should be mentioned in case of need, that many strong mineral and vegetable astringents can be used with more or less success besides arsenic, alum, and salt ; such as saltpetre, powdered green vitriol, or sulphate of iron, corrosive sublimate, etc. It is also 24 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. maintained that white arsenic applied in dry powder, or mixed with spirits of wine to the consistency of treacle, and put on with a brush, is the best preservative of all. Of vegetable substances, gum kino, oak bark, willow bark, catechu, powdered nutgalls, or any such material rich in tannin, are available; and strong spices or strong tobacco powdered will keep off insects. A largo skin, in default of anything better, may be plentifully dressed on the inside with wood ashes. The virtue of wood ashes really consists in their detergent properties ; for, containing as they do a large proportion of potash, the fat is thereby converted into soap, and sometimes in this condition is immediately brought away by the hand, or the scraper, and as a preservative, excepting under difficult conditions, the effect is cleanly and good. Remember that there is a difference in ashes, depending on the wood employed. Oak is one of the best. FISH. The proper preservation of fish is un- doubtedly a matter of some difficulty. Naturalists are perhaps not generally aware of how few examples of foreign fish reach this country in a condition that admits of effective after treatment, or how special a branch of the art it is to set them up effectively and well. The ordinary processes are : (1) to plunge and bottle them in spirits ; and we all know the effect of that on the evanescent colouring, as well as on the natural contour of the specimens ; (2) when they are skinned (see p. 46), to apply alum to those parts where the flesh cannot be perfectly removed, so that it may be dried, and to apply arsenical soap on the inside, for preservation of the skin. KEPTILES. The skins of crocodiles, alligators, and PRESERVATION. 25 the larger reptiles having been removed (see p. 46), must be manipulated as follows : Clean them of all flesh as perfectly as you can ; this, however, cannot be done very completely about the head, or the feet of a large example, and to those parts alum must be applied in plenty to dry up the flesh as well as may be. The roof of the mouth can be cleaned, arid the tongue must come away. With smaller specimens that can be skinned over the skull to the lips, a similar application must be made where it seems necessary. To the inner parfc of the skins some arsenical soap, or wood ashes may be put ; but, really, the preservatives are not nearly so necessary as in the case of warm- blooded mammals. Indeed turpentine that will pro- tect them from insects will afford nearly all the protection they need. The skin can be rolled or folded for transmission. With snakes, the skin dried flat can be rolled from the tail like a ribbon, the belly side inwards on account of the scales. Small speci- mens of any species will go in spirits. Carbolic is a useful agent in cleansing all reptiles. IMMERSION IN SPIRIT. Something must be specially said about this mode of preservation, for there is absolute necessity that it should be properly carried out, or nearly all the advantage of the resource is neutralised. Either fish or reptiles, or even birds, that may be sent home in spirits, should be treated in this way : First provide a tub, or other convenient vessel, full of the spirit, wherein the specimens can be put as a preliminary measure, so that the mucus, water, etc., may be drawn out of them. Before placing them in this a moderate incision should be made, with as little disturbance as possible, in the belly, so that the spirit may permeate all parts. Keep the specimens 26 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. in this spirit from a week to ten days, then transfer them to fresh spirit, and let them remain in that for about two weeks more, before finally you. remove them to the vessel or vessels of spirit in which they are to be packed for the remainder of the journey. Reptiles, being less watery than fish, generally require only one change. The first tub of spirit may be used for more than one set of animals, but will of course decrease in strength by the addition of the water drawn from them ; the second spirit should be stronger; the third quite strong enough to be readily inflammable. They will then be safe for more than six months, and can be sent home. Proof spirit, diluted about one-half with water, is perhaps the best to use, but rum or gin serves well. The specimens can be packed for transmission in great numbers thus: Wrap each fish or reptile in a piece of linen or cotton rag, and arrange them to rest closely in an appropriate vessel that can be then filled completely with spirit. A wooden packing-case, well lined with tin, that can be hermetically soldered up when quite full of the liquid, serves well. Of insects, beetles can be transmitted in spirit. INSECTS. The majority of insects having been pro- perly stored as directed (see p. 48), require little more than a supply of camphor, or cyanide of potassium, to protect them from decay. Mites sometimes appear in them as an evidence of taint, and then the best means for destroying the intruders is benzine. But some very large moths, butterflies, and beetles require a different treatment. In such cases the body must be opened by a longitudinal section on that side not intended to be displayed, and as much matter must be removed as can be got away without ' impairing the specimen. SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 27 The cavity thus created should be filled with corrosive sublimate in a dry powdered condition, and the incision must be neatly and skilfully closed over it. SKINNING AND PREPARATION. THE apparatus necessary for the skinning of animals is really very simple, and I strongly advise that it VI should be kept to the simplest proportions. It is the skill with which the knife is wielded that is more im- portant than the best of knives. A shoemaker's knife, a small saw, a pair of pliers, and perhaps a pair of cutting pincers, are all that are required for operating on the most important game. Some small implements for small specimens being added, this is all the kit that need be carried. To understand the principle of the thing, and to adapt that principle in practice with ingenuity and judgment to the particular conditions that present themselves, is the true learning ; and to 28 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK cumber the mind with numberless minute memoranda of other travellers' experiences in emergencies that may never be our lot, is an useless task. Enrich the recollection with all that experience brings to bear on the subject in deductions, to illustrate or to inform, but not to copy simply of necessity. The best operator is he who does what is right to carry out his purpose, carefully, on true principles, according to the means at his command, and the advantages of sur- rounding conditions ; he who simply copies what others have done in given circumstances, forgets, probably, the conditions under which they succeeded, and that the conditions are not necessarily the same in his case. Let a man be master of the occasion and his position will be good, even if it is different from any that has gone before. Now what has to be done is simply this, and the remark applies equally to large or small game, mammalia, birds, reptiles, or -fishes. A beast having been slain, or a specimen secured, we have to remove the skin, preserving the exterior natural features, as completely as possible ; then the skin cut as little as may be because it would otherwise decom- pose under the influence of climate, etc., such decay must be averted by the application of preservatives, and when it is packed so that it is protected, the trophy may be sent home. But the preservative and precautions necessary in an Indian or African climate, may be modified in North America, and in highlands or lowlands, in forests or exposed positions. There is, in fact, no preservative, or book recipe, or tale of other persons' experience, that can compare in value to quick true judgment, and cultivated common sense. I shall describe in as much detail as appears necessary the skinning and preparation of one animal represen- SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 29 tative of each class ; and my reader must trust himself to adapt the practice by the light of his own judgment to the specimens, large or small, with which he may have to deal; and he will soon find his practice surpass in usefulness the most compendious (and cumbersome) book of recipes and directions. LARGE GAME. When the great game is secured, and is ready for the operation, first turn the animal on its back, and, stretching apart the fore and hind legs, proceed to remove the skin. In all cases where the skin is wanted entire, this is best done by making an incision from the corner of the mouth, through the medial line of the belly to the extremity of the tail ; but in doing this cut only just through the skin, and be careful not unnecessarily to injure the carcase, or especially the intestines; next make lateral incisions in order to strip the limbs ; for the forelegs from the edge of the central incision through the armpit, along the inner side of the limbs, the line of incision inclin- ing slightly to the outer portion, in order that the seam may be less perceptible when the perfect specimen is mounted. A like process through the groin is necessary for the hind legs. These incisions thus made leave the skin in form of tongue-pieces over the breast. First apply the knife to these points, and detach the skin round to the spine and along the tail. In doing so it is necessary to clear the limbs, and great care must be taken to leave intact the natural features of the foot. The last metacarpal and metatarsal bones may be left in the skin, whether with the smaller specimens of Felidcc or Cervidce ; but in the big animals it is better to remove them altogether. Now turn over the carcase, and draw back the whole skin over the head, exercising particular care in separating the ears 30 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. and the eyes from the skull. Similar care must be taken as to the lips, for if the rim of the eyelids be severed by the scalpel the injury spreads in a remark- able manner, often so badly as to render the damage seriously conspicuous. The ears should be parted from the skull close to the bone, or the lower structure of them will present too large an aperture. The lips must be cut off close to the gums. Having thus taken off the skin, it must be cleared of all superfluous fat and flesh and all the fat and flesh is superfluous. The cartilaginous portion of the ear must be turned through. The lip must be treated thus : Pass the knife betweeen the mucous lining and the outer skin all round the mouth, so as to admit of the preservative penetrating this thick portion of the specimen com- pletely. The eyelids and the feet must each be treated in a similar manner for the same reason. Be careful that the claws or hoofs are well kept. A fruitful source of trouble to the sportsman in Ceylon, India, Africa, etc., is the proper treatment of an Elephant's foot. This feature is a recognised trophy, as well as the head, because it is a gauge of the size of the specimen, and because in ordinary circum- stances the skin of this mighty beast is so difficult of transport, and although it can be converted by skill into innumerable articles of domestic utility, the value of it in private hands is not always appreciated. It is different with the foot, excepting that it is particu- larly adaptable for conversion into useful articles, without impairing its natural history significance. The foot should be severed at least eighteen inches from the ground that is to say, the skin should be severed. Cut the skin down the back of the foot right across the sole to the toe ; a second cut must be SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 31 made across the sole so as to form a cross with the first, but these incisions must not be carried so far that they would be visible when the foot is imposed on the ground. Now separate the skin from the flesh, and bring the casing of the foot away in one piece. Clean it carefully, and apply powdered alum both in- side and outside, then place it to dry in the shade, taking good care that the skin does not fold, and is in all parts accessible to the air. It is not absolutely necessary that the skin dry in natural shape, but it is important that the foot be protected from insects, and to this end, when the specimen is quite dry, saturate it as far as possible with turpentine. Rhinoceros and Hippopotamus can be treated in the same way. Something must be specially said as to the head. It frequently happens that it is desired to save the head for preservation as a trophy, while the other part of the skin is either abandoned or saved for a rug. Heads with antlers or horns are prepared for preservation either in the naked bone or to be set up to imitate living nature. For this last, care must be exercised to take the skin of the whole neck. Make the incision up the back of the neck, over the head between the ears until the horns are reached ; if they are wide apart cut between them right and left, carrying the incision right round the burr of each horn. In separating the skin from the burr the knife should be used neatly with a plunging action of the point, so that not a particle of hair or skin be sacrificed at this part. He is a bad workman who leaves a morsel of the skin attached to the bone. In clearing the scalp be very careful not to let the knife injure the skin ; the knife must be deftly used. But there are other features with which this skill is more important still to wit, 32 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK the eyes, the nostrils, and the ears. The delicate skin round the eye is nearly hairless ; it must not on any account be torn or jagged. In a head the eyes and the nose are the most prominent parts, first claiming notice. In treating the nostrils and upper lip operate from inside the mouth ; sever the lip neatly high up the gum, over the teeth ; and in like manner detach the lip below. The skin will present in these portions a particular thickness, into which, from the inside, a neat midway incision must be carried all along, so that the preservative may penetrate and be carefully rubbed into the cut to the end that these parts may be saved properly. The alum process is best; but if more con- venient the skins may be preserved in pickle (see p. 20). Clean the skin well of all fat and flesh ; rub in the alum, but not on the outside of the nose, and hang up the skin to dry. If there should appear any likelihood of the short hair round the eyes and nostrils slipping, apply some alum judiciously there. Be sure to save the lower jaw. When the head is of Wapiti, and is to be set up thus, it may be a matter of great convenience to pack the horns, and to do that the skull, to which they are attached, may be sawn in two, longitudinally, by which much space maybe gained. But if the trophy is to be mounted in the naked bone, this severance is quite inadmissible, and it should in no case be adopted with smaller heads, which are, in fact, almost destroyed by it, the skull is thereby weakened, and at the end of the journey broken to pieces. Such a state of things necessitates great extra labour and expense even if the injury can ever be repaired. Some North American trophies recently received have come in a deplorable condition from this sort of injury, by which neither convenience nor economy can have been secured. For SKINNING AND PEEPAEATION. 33 preservation in the bone, the flesh may be roughly taken off, and the skull be cleaned by boiling, by maceration in a stream, or by burying it for a proper time in an ant-hill. But be sure and keep the specimen from dogs or other animals. In regard to the ears, when the skin is off, and you have separated the cartilage close to the bone, trim it neatly with the scissors of all that is not wanted inside, but do not take too much, or an unsightly hole may appear when the head comes to be mounted. Next insert the thumb and finger from the inside so as to separate the inner from the outer skin, forming, as it were, a flat bag; do not carry this separation too near the edges. Into the division preservative must be carefully put. It is my practice to fill the space with composition, which keeps the ear for ever the proper size and shape. The old way of sewing a piece of card on the outside is not good, it allows the skin to shrivel and shrink, and its natural beauty is seldom or never to be restored. Some horns (as Ovis Ammori) have "bearers," or a bony core, from which the horns may be detached and packed separately ; in this instance the skull should be kept, and so much of the bearers as seems superfluous may be removed. SMALL MAMMALIA. These can be preserved for dissection and preparation, when necessary, in spirit ; or, as described in the cases of large skins, in liquor. When they are treated thus, incision must be carefully made in the trunk, and the intestines, with as much blood, mucus, etc., as possible removed ; the liquid will then penetrate, and the carcase should be soaked in spirit or liquor for some time, in order that the juices of the body may be drawn out into it, and then the specimen should be removed into fresh spirit, strong 34 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. enough, to light with a match, and so packed. The receptacle should be quite full. In preparing the skin the following course should be adopted : the skull and the bones of the legs are to be left in the skins. The animal being placed on its back, make incision from the sternum (breast-bone) to the root of the tail, next separate the skin from the carcase, so far as can be conveniently reached, and sever the limbs from the body at the shoulders and thighs. Each limb can then be drawn out as a glove might be turned inside out but the bone must not be separated at its junction with the toe, or the skin of the foot or leg be in any way injured. Now remove the muscles from the bone. This can best be done by cutting the tendons near the toes, and carefully drawing the whole mass away at one operation. It must come in one piece, not piecemeal. The bone will now be clean. Clean the skin of the limb, and at the same time the other parts of the skin of all superfluous flesh and fatty matter. Dress the inside with arsenical soap, and apply freely powdered alum all over it, but particularly to the fleshy parts, as the eyes, nose, lips, feet, etc. Then replace the bones in the limbs, having previously, if possible, bound them with tow, or similar material, so as to replace the muscle that has been removed. Place a portion of stuffing in the skin of the head and trunk, and suspend the specimen to dry. The tail must be treated in this way : sever the vertebrae from the trunk close up to the body, leaving the tail in its sheath. Turn back the skin until enough of the tail protrudes to fasten securely with a string, that can be attached to a hook, or tree, or other firm SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 35 holding. Then with a cleft stick, or the handle of your pliers, pull the skin sheath down toward the tip, and the vertebrce will come away whole, wrinkling the skin to the end. Shake powdered alum into the cavity, or, if preferred, insert arsenical paste on a stick. SKELETONS. When it is. desired to save the skeleton of an animal, the procedure should be this : Having removed the skin, cut the fleshy parts away ; this need not be done too closely, neither is it necessary nor desirable in the operation to separate the joints. The bony frame, or its portions, should next be placed where they can be covered by water, the object being first to extract all blood, therefore it is well, as occasion requires, to pour off and renew the water, until it comes away comparatively clear. The next operation is to leave the skeleton in the liquid till the soft portions putrefy, and so leave the bone clean. The large bones that contain marrow must be perforated at either end, where the holes will be least observed, and returned to the water. They will come clean in due course like the others. The complete operation of this putrefying will occupy several months, but is expedited by a warm temperature. When the decay of the fleshy matter is complete, the bones must be cleaned by hand, and should then be immersed for a few (say 6) hours in a weak solution of lime-water. The bones are by this time quite separated, and it is all-important to care that not one, even the smallest, be missing; the loss of one little portion vitiates the usefulness of all a skeleton incom- plete in any part is of no value. The bones must next be bleached by the simple action of the atmosphere in D 2 36 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. the shade. If the operator be abroad the bones may then be packed for transmission; if he be where skilled assistance can be obtained, they are fit for articulation. BIRDS. Having seen that the cotton plugging of the throat, nostrils, and the shot-holes is safe, the first operation is to break the wing-bones (humeri) close to the body. If the bird be a large specimen, the most convenient and effectual way to do this is to hold the bird pendent by his wing against the edge of a table or board, so that the bone may be fractured by the sharp blow of a stick, with as little rough treatment as may be. But the doing this skilfully is indeed the gist of the whole work ; there is a proper way of doing it. The wing must be held by the upper feathers, pressed flat by all the fingers against the palm, so that the manipulation do not crush, or even seriously dis- turb the lay of the fibre. The blow with the stick must be a firm quick stroke of sufficient strength to complete the fracture, not simply to bruise the flesh, or so rough as in breaking the bone to unduly mangle it. The firmness of the board or table-edge is a great element in the neatness of this operation. The action of the hand will best be seen on the accompanying illustration. This is the method for treating large birds. In the case of small specimens that is anything less in size than a blackbird the same bone may be well broken by the thumb and finger, or at most by the forceps. The wing-bone being thus broken, place the bird on his back, the head toward you, in order that your knife may, what is technically called, " go with the grain of the feather." By this I mean that the point of the knife should be deftly inserted under the skin just at the end of the breast-bone ; raise the skin SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 37 till it bags, then press the knife forward in one clean continuous incision down to the vent, so that the skin be separately severed, but the flesh remain uninjured. Amateurs are constantly inclined to make their first incision from too high or too low a point; and the 38 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK mistake of injuring the stomach in any part is another danger that besets them. The opening thus made in the skin should be no larger than is necessary for the withdrawal of the body. For this purpose only is it made. Indeed with birds that have breasts of specially beautiful plumage and short feathers, as well as with divers, and aquatic birds, it is often desirable to make the incision under the wing. The great object is to get the body out of the skin in the cleanliest fashion, and so that none of the internal grease or juices soil the plumage. The overwhelming advantage then of a neat operation, so that the body remain practically unbroken, will be apparent at once. Sometimes it may be desirable to take the body out through the back, when the incision is made in the same manner as it would be on the breast. In fact the features to be specially preserved will rule the operator's choice in this respect. I, however, now suppose that the cut is made from the breast-bone as seen in the illustration. SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 39 Now put down the knife, and use the hands only, for the fingers are the best instruments. Insert the fingers under the skin on one side, and clear the skin from the flesh in all accessible parts. That done, insert below the skin a sufficient quantity of dry plaster of Paris, or such other similar material as, wanting plaster of Paris, you may be compelled to use to absorb such blood or other moisture as may at the moment be present. Treat the corresponding side in like manner. Next proceed to force out the leg. In order to do this, hold the leg firmly above the joint, and force the thigh through the aperture, at the same time carefully drawing off the skin ; insert the point of the scissors below the flesh next the bone, and 40 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. move tliem skilfully up between the bone and muscle, until, by raising the right hand a little, the scissors can be made to nip the bone transversely just against the joint ; cut the bone through and you can then thrust it out naked from the flesh, and with the scissors cut the tendons next the tarsus, and the whole muscle of the thigh will come away in one piece, leaving the bone clean. This bone must be cut near the femur joint, leaving the head of the bone which is useless with the flesh attached to the thigh and body. The bone, when thus freed, should appear as above. Having treated both legs thus, skin up to the root of the tail, but in severing the vertebrce leave the whole trian- gular projection in which the feathers are imbedded SKINNING AND PREPARATION, 41 for after treatment. It is a common error to cut this portion too low down, and much trouble results. Now turn the bird chest down- ward in order to skin the back. This is operation requiring more care than that front, because the thin skin has to carry larger quills, and they are rela- tively more difficult to manipulate. The specimen is now lying breast down- ward on the table, the head towards you. The whole skin of the tail can be drawn over the back, where the skin can be cleared by the blunt side of the scalpel, and the body will thus be freed down to the wings. Here free the body by cutting the flesh through with the scissors at 42 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. the point of fracture of the humerus, and thereupon free the whole body from the skin until only the neck remains to be severed, as shown in the illustration. The next step is one requiring judgment and dexterity. The head must be got away. With ducks, geese, and similar birds, the head is too large to come through the neck-skin, and, in such cases, an opening must be neatly made from the back of the head, about two inches down the neck, of sufficient size to admit of the skull being removed for cleaning. Through this orifice force the skull, skinning it carefully until past the eyes, and in doing this pay particular attention not to work any injury to the- edges of the eyes, or to the ears ; these last should not be rudely touched by the knife. Cut away the back part of the skull, with neck, tongue, and palate. Remove the brains and the eyes. The whole skin is then in a condition to be cleaned and prepared. The first thing to do now is to take away all fat and flesh, and make your skin as cleanly as you can ; then dress the inside with arsenical soap. Bind some tow round the leg-bones where the muscle was, and restore them to their proper position. Put some cotton-wool in place of the eyes, and, having forced some of the arsenical soap into the skull, return it to its place. In SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 43 the case of the large birds the specimen figured in our illustrations is a goose the wing must be treated thus: Open the skin from the outside along the bones as shown below, removing the muscle, without disturbing the hold of the feathers on the bone ; the quills here join the bone. It is important to bear this in mind, for if a serious error be made here the wing will be shapeless. Small birds can be treated from the inside. It is not desirable to use powdered alum to bird-skins t as it tends to make them brittle. The specimen should then be filled out by stuffing to the natural size, and a band of paper placed round it in order to keep the wings and other parts in proper position till dry. During the whole operation, wood dust, or other dry powder should be freely employed to absorb blood and grease, so that the plumage may be kept clean. When the skin of a specimen has been taken off in manner set forth above, there is a proceeding which it is important to observe, that is called technically 44 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. "making the skin." This is in reality a part of the operation of skinning, indeed that part of it which consists in finishing the work in a workmanlike manner. While the skin is fresh and supple it must be so dis- posed that as it dries it may take proper form rather than distortion, and much after-trouble will be saved. The skin, as it is inside out, must be cleaned this is indispensable and the arsenical soap properly applied. Directly that is done, it is well to sprinkle the surface of the soap with some dry powder say plaster of Paris, so that in handling the adhesiveness of the paste may not be inconvenient. It will be noticed that the skin between the wings, when raised from the bony structure, exhibits among the quills certain bare places. Now these would be most unsightly if they appeared prominent on the finished specimen. The tendency of the hollow skin, at this part especially, is to be too large, and it is better for after-operations that the skin should rather be contracted that expanded to anything approaching looseness. In setting up the bird, it is far easier to stretch the skin, if required, than to contract it ; and now is the time to catch up and stow away any seemingly superfluous folds. These are most conspicuous on the back. To get rid of them, tie the wing-bones inside with a thread that shall lie across the back, and draw the wings together as near as in judgment they may best represent the position in life. This will enable the feathers to cover in the naked skin, that would otherwise appear, and will give solidity, so to speak, to the plumage at this part. This is little present trouble, but is the saving of infinite trouble in the future, and is of great con- sequence for the beauty of the bird. Having done this, turn the plumage out, but be careful in doing so SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 45 not to fracture the skin of the neck. Use the scissor- forceps to fill in the neck with cut tow ; fill in the body ; smooth the feathers into proper position, and your whole bird into proper shape. Place a paper band round the wings, that they may set in good position. Small birds can conveniently be slipped into a cone of paper. It may sometimes fall to the lot of the traveller to secure an albatross, and at the same time he may not always know what to do best with his unwieldy and not very rare specimen. If he does not care to preserve it whole, he may well be reminded that there are some parts of it which may be profitably saved. The long tubular wing-bones are prized for pipe- stems, to which they can be adapted well ; the great web-feet will make beautiful tobacco pouches when properly prepared, or a curious small work-bag for a lady can be formed of the same trophies. The wing- bones must be carefully cleaned : a good way is to open the orifice at each end, and boil them ; or they can be macerated in water. The foot should be treated thus : sever the bone above the knee ; cut the skin down the back of the shank and heel ; insert the thumb and finger you must not use any sharp instrument so as to separate the web on both sides from the bony structure of the toes ; do this down to the outer talons, and so that the toes can be drawn out of the web-pouch now formed; sever the talons from the bones on the inside with the scissors, leaving the talons attached outside ; clean the skin neatly, and dress it well with arsenical paste ; fill the pouch with wool, or tow, or sawdust, to keep it in shape. Of course the utilisation of parts of birds and animals in this way is mainly a question of inventiveness and 46 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. ingenuity, for many natural features may be adapted to the most useful and ornamental purposes, while at the same time they retain the character of trophies. The leg-bones of the Flamingo are long and have an elegant curve they will form admirable pipe- stems ; the teeth of animals can be adapted orna- mentally in many ways ; the talons of a tiger, or the hoof of an antelope, or the tusk of a boar, may, as well as antlers and more pretentious features, be employed for adornment or use; and there is just this advantage, that they may in some circumstances be saved, when the whole trophy has to be abandoned. Birds can be kept in spirit, and this mode is particularly useful for the preservation of young birds in the down, very small specimens, etc. REPTILES AND FISH. As a general rule large speci- mens are skinned and preserved in similar manner to birds, although with reptiles alum may be used, espe- cially on the thicker portions of the skin ; but small specimens are kept in spirit. It must rest with the traveller himself to determine which course is best for saving the particular example he has secured. When a fish is skinned whole, he must be laid out carefully on a board, and the incision must be made not down the belly but along the centre of the least important side, from gill to tail. The object is to remove the body from the skin, with the least possible disturbance of the scales, etc. The skin can be manipulated neatly from each side of the incision. When, in this opera- tion, you come to the base of fins, cut the obstruction inside the skin with the scissors, but with judgment, so as not to sever them too closely, that they may not be unsettled. Cut in like manner the vertebrce next the base of the head, and next the extremity of tho SKINNING AND PREPARATION. 47 tail ; then, if need be, cut them also in the middle so that the flesh may be taken away in two pieces ; but this is a matter of convenience, and must be made to subserve the all-important point of not disturbing, bending, or otherwise injuring the skin, for the scales that constitute the characteristic beauty to be pre- served are very fragile and easily detached, and to break or detach them is fatal to the value of the specimen. Clean the head as well as you can, and then paint the whole interior surface of the skin with arsenical paste and apply the same preservative to the head, into the cavities of which cotton wool may be pushed. The body should be filled with dry sawdust up to its natural shape ; next draw the edges of the orifice together with neat stitches. The fins and tail must then be treated. These, while wet and pliant, must be set out in natural form on pieces of card, so that they may dry as they are intended to be displayed. The specimen can now be put on one side to dry. This process, however, rather presupposes the opportunity for quiet treatment at home. When the naturalist is on the field, shorter means may be used. The skin being removed and dressed with arsenical soap, may be left to dry in convenient form. The skins can then be packed together, and it will be found useful to pack with them some light stiff 48 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. material like thin wood, dried rushes, etc., that dis- posed longitudinally will prevent the possibility of the brittle skins being bent accidentally. The smaller fish and reptiles, when preserved in spirit, should be saved in form as uninjured as possible. Carefully preserve the natural appearance of the creature so far as may be ; and it is very important that on a label (of tinfoil or paper) attached to the specimen itself, or to the receptacle wherein it is placed, should be noted a sufficient description of it made at the moment it is fresh before you, especially of colours and appearances and features which may disappear or be altered by the spirit, unless the species be quite well known and these details are manifestly unnecessary. Be particular as to the locality in which the specimen has been captured. INSECTS. The ingenuity displayed by the collector in capturing and storing insects is often a personal quality, and the methods that may be adopted are almost infinite. The general methods most approved are all that can be referred to here. Butterflies, moths, and some other species, whose beauty is in their colouring and is very fragile to the touch, must be treated for storage and preservation in a different INSECTS. 49 way from beetles and insects of similar class. In fact, all excepting the first named may be preserved in spirit so soon as captured for after treatment, and they need not be injured by the process. For permanent display in the cabinet, all insects must be properly set out the Lepidoptera with distended wings, and the Coleopterous insects in suitable posi- tion. They should be killed the instant they are captured, to prevent injury resulting from efforts to escape. A gauze net is generally used. When a butterfly is got into it, the collector watches his oppor- tunity while the insect is still in the gauze, and so soon as it closes its wings he lightly and sufficiently pinches its thorax between his thumb and finger. The butterfly falls from the net dead and uninjured. The specimen must not be handled excepting to pick him up by the legs, holding which the wings may be slightly blown apart and a proper pin pushed through the body, so that the specimen with closed wings may at once be stored in the collecting box, or if the creature be not quite dead the pin can be inserted on the under part of the cork in the cyanide bottle, and the specimen kept there till dead. Butterflies should be stored thus with folded wings, until they are re- quired to be set out for the cabinet. When the col- lector reaches home, he can store the contents of his pocket box, by putting each specimen in a small triangular envelope of paper, outside which a note may be made. Hundreds can be stored in small space. Moths, on account of their greater rotundity, must not be treated in exactly the same manner by pinching. They are not frequently captured in the gauze, and are best killed in the cyanide bottle, or by the applica- tion of a little prussic acid. They are conveniently 50 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. taken home in separate pill-boxes. Beetles, etc., may as a rule be well preserved in spirit, which kills them forthwith ; or they can be killed in the cyanide bottle. When the time arrives for arranging insects for the cabinet, the Butterflies can be relaxed by placing them for a time on wetted sand, or exposing them to steam. The wings, legs, etc., can then easily be set out by the aid of small pieces of card on pins (see figs. E, F). Beetles, etc., should be set out while they are wet when taken from the spirit (see p. 26 as to preservatives). In England, and on the Continent of Europe, many entomologists now study the exotic species, which they can obtain from friends or correspondents residing abroad, either in the ovum or egg state, or in the chrysalis or pupa state. Most people know that from the eggs (ova) of Butterflies and Moths come out caterpillars or larvce. These larvae, moult several times, and after each moult, in some species, there is a remarkable change in the colour of the larva. The larvffi of many species of Lepidoptera go into the ground to change into the pupa state, and sometimes they form a shell in the ground ; some turn into pupce INSECTS. 51 in leaves, others on the ground in a sort of web. The pupce of Butterflies are most often found on grasses, twigs of shrubs, or on trees ; others on walls or fences. The pupce of many species of Bombyces are in- closed in cocoons most often found on trunks, and especially on branches of trees. Some of these cocoons are remarkable by their size and the beauty of their silk. When the leaves of the trees have fallen, these cocoons are easily seen hanging from the branches. E In some species of Lepidoptera, the imagines (perfect insects), male and female, are very much alike, but the body of the <$ is larger than that of the ? . The Moths of the male Bombyces have antennce (horns) very much more pectinated than those of the female ; the body of the latter also is generally much larger. Persons wishing to rear the larvae, should keep the Moths in cages, in order that the eggs may be secured. With respect to the rearing of the larvce of large Bombyces, the following plan may be adopted, till the second or third stage. Use large bell-glasses, with a E2 52 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. few holes in the dome, or glasses open at the top, which in this case must be covered with gauze. Place these glasses on saucers full of sand covered with a piece of paper. Through the paper stick into the sand some branches of the food plants proper to each species. Place the young larvce on these. Under bell- glasses, which, of course, must be placed in the shade, no water is required to keep the little branches fresh, and the young larvce, which are apt to wander till the first or second moult, cannot escape. When the larvce are large, it is best to rear them on large branches plunged in water, and without the glass covering. This refers to the rearing of the large silk-producing Bombyces, and of all those forming some sort of cocoon. When the larvce have to bury themselves to change into pupce, it is of course necessary to rear them in a box, containing a few inches of mould. This method should always be adopted when the habit of the larvce is not known. Breeding cages, which, as a rule, should always be large, must have their sides of perforated zinc to give air. Cages ought to open by the middle, like two boxes open on one side, and placed one over the other, and fastened by hinges. When pupce have to be sent to England from very distant countries, especially if they have to cross the tropics, they can be conveniently transmitted in small strong boxes by sample post ; each box not to exceed eight ounces, and to be registered, but place the stamp where the stamping will do no harm. The pupce should be sent as soon as they are formed ; and if underground pupce they should be placed in soft damp moss. The boxes should also have a few holes in the sides to admit air. If boxes containing pupce or ova of Lepidoptera SETTING-UP. 53 could be placed in the ice-house on board ship, which would retard considerably the emergence of the Butter- flies or Moths and the hatching of the eggs, valuable species could be sent from very distant countries. Salmon ova were thus safely forwarded from England to Australia and Tasmania. ARTISTIC SETTING-UP OF TROPHIES. IN order to reproduce the life-like form of any animal by the employment of its preserved natural features, not only technical skill, but knowledge and artistic feeling are necessary to the production of a worthy work. Formerly, the process aptly termed "stuffing" was employed. The results were seldom or never of more that a relative value, especially in regard to the mammalia. The fact was too often ignored that the use of astringents, necessary to preserve a skin, in- variably distort it, that this distortion differs even in several parts of the same skin, by reason of the varying thickness or even the condition of health in which the animal was killed ; for instance, the skin of a fat animal is liable to undue expansion, that of a poor beast, to peculiar contraction ; and mere stuffing can give only an untrue representation of the living creature. It is therefore incumbent upon the operator, firstly, to make himself thoroughly acquainted with the habits of the animal in a state of nature ; and next to choose some incident of the creature's living existence which he desires his specimen to illustrate. This will enable him to arrive at his design. He must then make himself acquainted not only with the bony but the muscular structure of the animal, by which 54 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. knowledge he can, if he have the proper technical and artistic skill, produce a model, whereon he can properly place the skin and other natural features of the speci- men, so as to make as perfect a representation as practicable of the living animal, in form and detail, and of the creature's living habits in his design. This is the only course whereby noble trophies can be made to have more value than a paper description of them would possess. On the individual skill, know- ledge, and taste of the artist depends the real value of the work, in the same way as that of the sculptor, or painter, is in degree to be estimated. A typical animal to illustrate the propositions laid down above is the Tiger, because of his various and picturesque habits, his magnificent proportions, and great beauty. I shall, therefore, describe the setting- up of a specimen of this feline in detail. But here a qualifying observation must be made. No book de- scription can adequately convey all that should be known. To learn what is necessary the personal in- struction of a good teacher, and the smallest modicum of experience, is worth more than any printed course of instruction, however ostensibly complete. We will, then, suppose that a perfect skin, in good condition, has been procured. Let us select the simplest action of the creature, viz., his stealthy walk through a grassy jungle, which is his habitat, when his peculiar expression is that of constant caution, whether he be in retreat, or advancing, with the snarl of ready offence which is habitual with him. This is the design. As digitigrade quadrupeds, the cats walk on their toes, and the claws then being retractile are concealed. The left hind leg and the right fore leg, or vice versa, are used together in progression. There is a difference in SETTING-UPLARGE GAME. 55 the pose of the ear to express alertness, caution, or anger. In the first case the ear is erected ; the ear is partially depressed when the beast is only cautious, but in anger, or incipient anger and alarm, the ear is levelled with the skin of the head. We will choose the semi-depression. The mouth should be partially open, showing the teeth and tongue, but the lip not raised, the expression being that of slightly panting. In order to produce this design, first study the skin and form a judgment of its natural dimensions, as to height, bulk, etc. A distinct preparation of the skin is necessary as a preliminary to this. It must be what is technically called " shaved " or " fleshed." This process consists in first softening the raw skin which is most often native-dressed with lime by sponging the flesh plentifully with liquor. The skin is then placed on a rounded beam conveniently, and what is termed the " pelt " the enderma, in fact is removed, by scraping and shaving, with a currier's knife, the edge of which is turned peculiarly for the purpose. This, in reducing the substance of the skin, renders it elastic and better adapted for use on the model, which must be now constructed. The head, with the lips, eyes, and burrs of the ears, as well as the feet, must be carefully shaved with an ordinary knife, skilfully manipulated. Now fold over the skin with the hair outwards, so that the limbs accord with the intended position ; measure the points and make the best esti- mate possible under the conditions as to bulk, etc. The limbs should be folded and the whole arranged as nearly as may be to give the outline of the animal. In making the model first deal with the trunk. Two H-inch boards, 11 inches wide, of proper length, should be glued, and what carpenters term " do walled" 56 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. together by the edges. Place the skin as folded to represent the animal flat on this board, and from it draw thereon the outline of the trunk. Cut the board to this outline to the inside of it, so that room be allowed for the modelling of the muscles on this framework. Get four sufficient iron rods f-inch is the medium gauge for the legs, one for the tail, and two to support the head. Bore a hole through the board where the scapula or blade-bone would come. Through this pass the rod till about 15 inches are on the other side, then bend this portion sharp round at right angles, to be fastened by staples firmly along the board in the direction of the hind quarter. At about 3 inches from the board bend the rod again, and incline it forward at such an angle as represents the natural position of the scapula; then bend the rod back again for the humerus, and once more forward for the ulna and radius, then shortly for the carpal and metacarpal bones. This is the extent of the rod, which must now be taken through a wooden stand and fastened under it. It will be seen that this SETTING-UP LARGE GAME. 57 iron, which must be repeated exactly on the other side, is intended to take the place of the absent bones, and that it must stand away from the board just such distance as the original bones would have occupied. The hind legs should be treated in similar manner (see diagram). The iron for the tail must be appro- priately bent, and attached to the board in position; as also the two irons to support the skull, which must now be attached. The next operation is to carve in soft wood the bones and muscles of the limbs, keeping them small enough to be finally covered with clay. I use a par- ticular substance of my own invention for this model- ling, and it dries as hard as marble without any shrinkage ; it is never brittle. The first group, " The Combat," that I was able to produce by this means, was exhibited in the International Exhibition (1871), in Division III. (Scientific Inventions and New Dis- coveries.) The wood, representing bones, should be made in pieces, much as a lay figure is made. The pieces then being sawn through the centre longitudi- nally, a hollow space should be cut down them, not only to lighten them, but that they may be riveted together over the iron, so that the rod occupies the place, as it were, of marrow in the bone. The trunk must be built up so as to be light and hollow, but with an appropriate surface to receive the clay. Behind the shoulder, midway, and next the thigh, should be fixed, on either side of the central board, segments of 1-inch board, of proportion suffi- cient to give the required bulk, and to secure the contour of the ribs, etc. A nearly circular board must be shaped to distend the neck. Across the edges of these boards coarse, strong convas must be 68 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. neatly tacked, small laths being inserted at proper places to prevent the canvas sinking. The rod which is to support the tail must be covered with tow, neatly bound on to the required form, and then in like manner sewn up in the canvas. The same material must also be extended over the skull, whereon the fleshy excrescences must be represented cleverly by tow. We have thus a complete light framework covered with strong canvas, excepting the limbs. On all necessary places over the whole framework a sur- face of modelling clay is to be worked. The ribs and prominent muscles of the trunk, the muscular develop- ment of the shoulders and haunches, the joints and extremities, must Jail be carefully modelled on. Ordi- nary modelling clay is used ; and when the model is finished, and nearly dry, paper should be pasted over the clay to prevent it from breaking away. A good method is to perfectly steep brown paper in a pailful of hot paste. The softened paper can be put in small pieces over the clay, and readily adheres. The model is now completed and made ready to receive the natural features of the animal. First of all the eyes must be carefully adjusted in the most natural manner ; the claws must be next inserted in position. It remains to place the skin. This must be again damped with liquor till quite soft, and in this state it must be carefully arranged on the model. First manipulate the head, paying particular attention to adjust the lips, eyelids, and ears properly, so that the required expression may be secured. It is ad- visable now to tack together the edges of the skin in certain places, as under the throat; the four joints under the armpits, and at the groin, midway under the belly, at intervals along the tail and the limbs. Adjust SETTING-UPHEAD TROPHIES. 59 the soft skin to the inequalities of the model, using a " piercer " and the thumb. The seams must be care- fully and neatly sewed up. A delicate and important operation remains. The skin should fit perfectly all the indentations of the model. In order to attain this, the skin, when worked wet into the recess, should be secured there wherever necessary by drawing pins, which must not be withdrawn until the model is per- fectly dry. Then, the pins being removed, the fur can be cleansed in the usual way, viz. : rub with the hands very fine mahogany dust all over the coat ; then beat it with a fine cane and finish with a brush. The tongue, which is modelled in clay, and tinted, should now be placed in the mouth, where the tinting can be finished. At the same time, the lips, eyes, and nose can be tinted and finished. The pigment used should be the finest tube oil colour. It is best before painting to cover the mucous surfaces with hot wax, which promotes the naturalness of the appearance most materially. The whiskers which may have come from the skin should be carefully replaced. Accept it as a golden rule never to cut the sJcln. The method described above is given on the pre- supposition that the skin is one as ordinarily received from India, cared by native practitioners. But in cases where the skeleton of a beast is preserved, and is available, much of the work may be saved by utilising the bones, especially for the limbs ; and in any case they furnish the true proportions of the animal, which are so difficult for the inexperienced operator to arrive at without them. The mounting of Head Trophies is best achieved in the following manner : If the head has been received in pickle, the skin should be thoroughly cleansed in 60 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. fresh cold water, and should directly afterwards be shaved on the flesh side, as directed in the case of the tiger skin. Whether it be the head of a Tiger, a Stag, or a Bison, the process is the same. A proper estimate must be taken of the length of neck. What is called a neck-board must be prepared accordingly ; that is a framework to which the skull is to be attached, and whereon the skin of the neck can be distended properly. This board is a flat piece of inch deal, 11 inches wide, cut to the shape of the neck, as the central board is shaped for the trunk of the tiger. The construction is on the same plan, the form being modelled in like manner. This neck-board is fixed to a heart-shaped back-board, by means of which it can be hung against a wall. The skull and horns having been firmly fixed on the artificial neck, the skin should be placed on the model and carefully adjusted. In well prepared trophies the seam should be up the nape of the neck, and the throat be intact. The nostrils, lips, and eyelids of the Stag, or Bison, should be moulded with artistic feeling and particular care, and clay should be injected between the mucous and outer skin of the lips, nostrils, and eyelids, so as to give them the rotund, fleshy appearance they have in life. It is better to insert the eye in its orbit before the skin is drawn on. The ears must be manipulated into shape while they are drying, and when the speci- men is dry it can be cleaned in the usual manner. Of small mammals the Squirrel will probably serve best as an example, and in this instance I shall pre- sume that the skin has just been removed from the animal in a fresh condition, according to the method fully described on page 32. It is always an advantage to set up a skin while it is fresh. Prepare a body wire SETTING-UPSMALL MAMMALS. 61 about 12 inches long, and of the thickness of ordinary whipcord; cover this with tow to the size of the carcase that has been removed, and bind the tow neatly with hemp ; in fact, shaping the tow as nearly as possible to represent the form of the squirrel. For a sitting position, bend the wire so that the artificial body have the necessary arch of the back. The end of the wire next the tail must be turned and concealed in the body. Certain stitches through with a long needle will assist materially in shaping the form and strengthening the frame. A wire covered with the requisite quantity of tow will form the tail. Four wires, each about 8 inches long, will be required for the limbs. Pass these wires severally through the fleshy pad of the extremities, and bind the bones to the wire with cotton, taking care to leave about 2 inches of wire beyond the humerus and femur, so that they may be passed into the frame of the body and clinched. Next fill out each limb by carefully binding tow in proper proportion round the bone. Never exceed the natural size. The bones having been returned to the skin and the limbs completed, the upper end of the body wire should be cut so as to protrude only 1 inch and then should be inserted in the skull, the whole skin meanwhile being turned over the skull. A stitch driven through from eye to eye will fasten the head securely to the artificial neck. Small portions of tow must be inserted where the flesh has been taken from the skull, which can then be returned and the skin drawn into its position. The limb wires can now be inserted in the body and clinched. The skin having been properly drawn over, the parts cau be neatly sewed up, the limbs bent to their natural position, and the wires of the feet passed through a stand so as to 62 THE SPORTSMAN'S HANDBOOK. be secure. It will be found advisable to manipulate the skin with the