Publications of the California Historical Survey Commission Edited by Owen C. Coy, Ph.D. Director of the Commission 11308 Frontispiece. Ruins of San Carlos about 1865. This photo by Johnson is the earliest photograph at hand. This is seen by the remains of the wall against the facade of the church, the condition of the roof over the chapel, and the ruins in the rear to the left. THE ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY OF Mission San Carlos Borromeo CALIFORNIA BY Frances Rand Smith Published by the California Historical Survey Commission BERKELEY, 1921 COPYRIGHT CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SURVEY COMMISSION 1921 C.AI.lFOItXIA STATU PFtlNTING OITICE SACItAMHNTO. 1021 LETTER OF TRANSMITTAL. ' To His Excellency, William D. Stephens, Governor, Sacramento, California. Sir: Herewith is presented The Architectural History of Mission San Carlos Borromeo, tiie first of a projected series dealing with the architectural history of the Spanish missions of CaHfornia, the work being undertaken under the statutes prescribing the duties of the Commission. Respectfully submitted. CALIFORNIA HISTORICAL SURVEY COMMISSION, John F. Davis, Chairman, Herbert E. Bolton, Edward A. Dickson, Owen C. Coy, Director. Berkeley, California, August 15, 1921. 2—11303 EDITOR'S PREFACE This volume is the first of a projected series relating to the architectural history of the Spanish missions of California. The work was undertaken by the Historical Survey Commission under a statute of 1917 (Statutes, 1917. Chap. 410), defining its duties to be among other things "to investigate and acquire information as to the physical characteristics of the several missions which were maintained in the State of California under the charge of the Franciscan fathers." For many years Mrs. Frances Rand Smith of Palo Alto had lieen engaged in the study of the old California missions and she already had copious notes, sketches, photographs and models of several of the missions. The commission therefore sought her cooperation in this work and during the summer of 1918 obtained from her the manuscript, sketches and photographs which form the basis for this report. Since that time the author and the commission have been busily engaged in revising, elaborating, and perfecting the original manuscript. In accordance with the terms of the act a public hearing was held at Carmel, October 31, 1918, at which time the details of this report were care- fidly gone over by the many persons assembled who represented the Church, historical and landmarks societies, and many others. Many interesting points were developed. but no material additions to the information or adverse criti- cism of the findings of the commission were offered. Subsequent excavations carried on by Father Raymond M. Alestres, in charge of the parish in which San Carlos Mission is located, brought to light much valuable data and a wealth of detail regarding the mission buildings. These excavations together with continued historical research and the gath- ering of additional photographs has made it possible for the commission to supplement materially the original text. In a work of this character, where the official historical records and the archeological remains are not complete but must be supplemented by other less reliable data, it is necessary to keep clearly in mind the varying degrees of reliability of the evidence presented. At least three classes of informa- tion have been used in this work First, the archeological remains as seen in the buildings and ruins now extant. In so far as these remains can be identified as parts of the mission before the time of secularization they are the most valuable data to be obtained as to form, material, and dimension. Second, there are the written records. These vary in reliability from the official contemporary records of the padres and the detailed descrip- tions of more or less accurate observations of scientific explor- ers, as Laperouse, Vancouver, Du Petit-Thouars and others, to the less definite and unreliable accounts. Third, the pictorial representations of the missions as shown by sketches, survey-plats, and photographs. The reHa- bihty of these last classes increases in the order named. For San Carlos three sketches made by foreign voyagers antedate the time of the photo- graphs : one by Sykes, made about 1794; one by \\m. Smythe. probably made in 1823 ; and the other published bv Laplace in the account of his voyage alongf the California coast in 1839. They all possess great value but are merely the artist's description, their accuracy depending directly upon the degree of faithfulness with which he represented the scene before him. It is probable that in some cases merely rude pencil sketches were the only definite record made upon the spot, much of the detail being added during the many leisure hours upon shipboard. It is therefore not remarkable that many points may be found in these sketches which cause difficulty in interpreta- tion. The photographs, which first appear during the sixties, are free from this criticism and preserve for us most valuable information of what still remained of these old landmarks. Of particular value are the views of John- son, ]\Iuybridge, Perkins, \\'atkins and Fiske. For aid in the prosecution of this work the commission wishes to express its appreciation to His Grace the Most Reverend Edward J. Hanna, Archbishop of San Francisco, and the Right Reverend J. J. Cantwell, Bishop of Mon- terey and Los Angeles, for their cordial support and assistance ; to Monsignor Joseph M. Gleason of Palo Alto; to Reverend Thomas L. 0"Xeill of Berke- ley, who kindly gave much assistance and valuable advice ; and especially does it appreciate the help of Father Raymond M. ]Mestres of Monterey, whose excavations have enabled the commission to incorporate into this report much valuable material which otherwise would have been inacces- sible. Gratitude is due the authorities in charge of the Bancroft Collection for the data contained in the valuable transcripts made by Bancroft from the original archives, many of which have subsequently been destroyed. Mr. C. B, Turrill has furnished copies for several excellent illustrations. From the State Library through Miss Endora Garroutte and Mr. H. C. Peterson manv valuable photographs have been obtained, especially those taken by C. W. J. Johnson, now belonging to the Frances M. Hilby Collec- tion of the State Library. From Mrs. Ivy Perkins Cercle of San Francisco were obtained the views taken by her father, Mr. Perkins, the original nega- tives subsequently having been placed in the State Library. Valuable criticism and advice regarding architectural features were obtained from Mr. Bernard Maybeck and the School of Architecture of the University of California. Mr. ]>. S. Mayne assisted in observations at the mission and worked into form for reproduction many of the illustrations contained in this report. It scarcely need be added that all students of the California missions are constantly indcbtetl to Father Zephyrin F.ngelhardt for his scholarly works. ]\Iuch historical data has purposely been eliminated because this study is limited closely to the "physical characteristics" of the mission. On the other hand the architectural study might have been made more elaborate in detail had (lur resources been less limited. If this data is incomplete in ~ome par- ticular it is believed to be all thai may be incorporated with a satisfactory historical basis at present. In view of the fact that the greatest number of readers will be neither technically trained historians nor architects an endeavor has been made to avoid an undue amount of technical language or detail in either field. The actual restoration of these mission structures is not within the prov- ince of this commission. What is here presented is set forth in the hope that it may be of assistance to those so engaged, and with the feeling that it will furnish much useful data to that larger group of general readers interested in studying California mission architecture. OwEx C. Coy Berkeley, California, June 15, 1921. AUTHOR'S PREFACE For assistance in the prosecution and completion of the present work the writer's thanks are due especially to Professor Herbert E. Bolton, for his personal aid and encouragement; to Dr. Owen C. Coy, for his skillful as- sistance in investigations at the mission and his unfailing guidance in biblio- graphic studies and preparation of the text ; to the Reverend Monsignor Joseph Gleason, for generous contributions from his library and store of personal knowledge of mission history; to Mr. Chas. B. Turrill, for his contribution of many pictures of historical value ; to Mr. L. S. Slevin, for the use of his collections of old pictures and his zeal in securing new ones. The cordial aid of these and many other friends has lightened the labor which has lasted through the years since 1908, when this study was begun. The writer hopes that it may be a modest tribute to the achievements of the pious padres who founded our earliest settlements. Frances Rand Smith. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Editor's preface 7 Author's preface 11 List of illustrations 14 Historical Xarkative The founding of the mission, 1770 17 The question of a new site 17 Removal to Carmel Valley, 1771 18 Erection of missinii Ijuildings 20 Deaths of fathers Crespi and Serra 21 San Carlos visited Ijy Laperouse. 1786 2Z Stone church erected, 1793-97 23 Vancouver at San Carlos 24 The quarters of the neophytes, 18U0 28 The mission quadrangle 31 Erection of the "Via Crucis," 1820 31 Secularization of the mission 31 San Carlos in ruins, 1836-1841 U Under American control 34 Title conhrmeJ to the church, 1859 n Later descriptions and photographs 37 Mission restoration 41 Architectl-ral Features The lirst structures, 1771-1773 45 Other buildings, 1774 45 The adobe church 45 The stone church , 51 Interior of the church 52 The mission quadrangle 58 The mission bells 72 The burial ground 72 Bibliography — Printed works 77 Manuscript material 78 Index 79 3—1 J 308 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Frontispiece. Ruins of San Carlos about 1865. Johnson. Page Plate 1. Forest of Monterey pines. Moran 25 2. San Carlos :Mission, 1794. Sykes 26 3. San Carlos Mission, 1823. Smythe 29 4. San Carlos Mission, 1839. Laplace 29 5. "Alemany Plat" of San Carlos Mission, 1854 30 6. Plat of San Carlos grant, 1858 35 7. Ruins of San Carlos about 1870. Muybridgfe 36 8. Restoration of San Carlos Mission, Oriana Day, 1884 36 9. San Carlos church before 1880. Watkins 39 10. San Carlos church about 1882. Fiske 39 U. San Carlos church about 1883. Johnson 40 12. San Carlos church after restoration of 1884. Johnson 40 13. Ground plan of church. Smith 47 14. Front elevation of church. Smith 48 15. Rear elevation of church. Smith 48 16. Side elevation of churcli 1. Smith 49 17. Side elevation of church 11. Smith 50 18. Cross section of church. Smith 53 19. Ruined interior. Brown 53 20. Pilasters supporting arches. Smith 54 21. Ruins of interior before 1880. Perkins 54 22. Stone arch supporting lialcony. Smith 55 23. Star window 55 24. Entrance to church. Smith 56 25. Entrance to baptistry. Smith -^9 26. Entrance to chapel. Smith 59 27. Piaptistry window. Slevin 60 28. Chapel window. Slevin 60 29. Window detail. Smith 61 30. Side entrance to cluirch. Slevin 62 31. Detail of side eiurancc to church. Smith 62 32. Plaque - 63 33. Wood carving 63 34. Entrance to sacristy. Smith 64 35. 'Sandstone lavabo in sacristy 64 36. Mound of ruins, January, 1920. Coy 67 37. Excavated ruins, April, 1921. Coy 67 38-40. E.xcavatcd ruins, April. 1921. Coy 68 41. Ruins of San Carlos Mission about 1880. Fiske 69 42. Ruins of mission iiuadrangle, January, 1921. Slevin 70 43. Ruins of mission quadrangle, 1908. Slevin 70 44. Ground plan of Mission San Carlos. Smith 73 45. Survey of San Carlos Mission, 1921. Coy 75 HISTORICAL NARRATIVE HISTORICAL NARRATIVE Mission San Carlos Borromeo was fovnuk-d on June 3, 1770, by Father Junipero Scrra. The first site was on the shore of Monterey Bay, near tlie spot where \'izcaino landed, and where the Carmelite friars said mass "in the shadow of a large oak tree, some of whose branches reached the water." I'ortohi, who had explored the site the previous year, took formal possession of the port on the date mentioned and was present at the founding of the mission. The historic ceremony is described by Father Serra in a contem- porary letter as follows :^ "On the holy day of Pentecost, the 3rd of June, after having gathered together all the officers of sea and land and all the rest of the people by the side of the little ravine and oak where the Fathers of that other expedition [Vizcaino] had held their celebra- tion, an altar was erected, the bells were htuig up and rung, the hymn Veni Creator was sung and the water blessed, and finally a large cross was erected and the royal standard set up. I then sang the first Mass which we suppose has been celebrated here since that long ago, and then we sang the Hail to Our Lady before the image of our Most Illustrious Queen which occupied the altar. After that I preached a sermon to the assembled people. After the service had been concluded with the Te Deiim the officers performed the ceremony of taking formal possession of the land in the name of the King, our lord (whom may God keep). We afterwards ate our dinner together under a shade on the beach. The whole service had been accompanied with much thunder of powder both on l;ind and from the ship. To God alone be given all the honor and glory." Father Crespi, who was associated with Serra in the administration of the mission, described its founding in the following words :- "On the same day of Pentecost, Jnne 3rd. . . . the Rev. Fr. Presidente of the missions, Fr. Junipero Serra, in the name of the king and of the Rev. Fr. Guardian and the venerable Discretory of the Apostolic College of the Propagation of the Faith, of San Fernando de Mexico, established the new mission under the title of San Carlos Borromeo. Naming as principal patron of the new church the most holy Patriarch St. Joseph, he took possession of it in the name of the said colleg'e, and assigned as his fellow missionary Fr. Juan Crespi, his disciple in philosophy." Temporary buildings were erected for the presidio. An enclosure made of branches and trees and provided with an altar served temporarily as a church. Soon a small chapel was built, together with the living quarters for the padres and the necessary workshops. All was surrounded by a stockade.^ Tlic Question of a Nczv Site. Soon after the founding of the mission Father Serra became dissatisfied with its location. He therefore petitioned the proper authorities to be permitted to remove the mission from the site on Monterev Bai,' to the vallev of the Carmel River about a league distant 'Palou, Rciacion Iiistorica clc la vida y at^nstolicas tarcas del venerable f^atire Fray Junipero Scrra (1787 ed."), 101-102. Hereafter cited as "Vida." For translation see James edition, p. 98. See also Kngelliardt. The Missions and Missionaries of California, II. 74-7.S, for translation from Crespi's account in Palou, Noticias de la Neuva California (San Francisco, 1874), II, 268-269. =Engelhardt, II, 77, 78. =Palou, Noticias. II, 271-272: Vida, 103. 17 l8 ARCHITFXTrRAL HISTORY across the peninsula. As the reason for this request he explained that there was but little arable land in the vicinity of the port and that running water for purposes of irrigation was entirely lacking. Another reason doubtless strong in the mind of Father Serra was to provide a greater dis- tance between the mission Indians and the soldiers of the presidio.* The proposed location held all of these advantages over the one already selected, for the vallev possessed much fertile land for cultivation and the river could furnish all the water needed for irrigation. Removal to Caniwl Valley, i/J'i- In response to the petition of Fr. Serra, the \lceroy granted the permit to remove the mission to the Carmel River at such place as Serra might select," and also as a personal donation sent a set of vestments consisting of chasuble and dahnaties, which were to be used on solemn occasions.'' In June, as soon as the order had been received from the Mceroy granting permission for the removal, Serra set out for Carmel ^'alley to select the site and make ready for the removal of the mission. Leaving at that place several Lower California Indians under the charge of three marines and five soldiers to cut and prepare timbers, Serra hastened to found a mission later known as San Antonio de Padua." Return- ing to Carmel ^'a^ey he found the work progressing too slowly to suit his desires, so he took up his abode at the new mission site on the first of August, 1 7/1. Since the Indians and soldiers had already provided an amount of wood and timbers. Father Serra set about the construction of the necessary buildings, he himself acting as "engineer and overseer." His first work was to have hewn out a great cross, which after being consecrated was raised and fi.xed in the ground al:)Out the center of the area determined for the mission. Near at hand stood a hut in which he lived and another which served provisionally as a church. - Palou gives the following more detailed accouni. of the removal of the Mission :'■' "As soon as the Mission of San Antonio had been founded, the revere:id padre pro- ceeded to the Royal Presidio of Monterey, and altliough he eagerly desired to go, and found another mission, San Luis Obispo, it was not possible on account of a lack of soldiers for a guard, and so he assisted in removing the mission as His Excellency had ordered: for this purpose it was arranged that Fray Juan Crespi and the ministers des- tined for San Luis should remain in the Royal Presidio, and the reverend padre de- termined to proceed to tlie place on llie Carmel, wliich had been desiennted, to plan *Palon, Xoticias, II, 286; Engclhardt, Missions and Missionaries, 11, 81; Bancroft, History of California, I, 177. ■"'I)f Croix to Pages. Nov. 12. 1770. in Archircs of California, Provincial State Pal^'rs, I, 70 (Bancroft Collection, ms.) "Kngclharrlt. II. 84. '/bill, II. 87: Bancroft, I, 177, based on Palou, Vida, 121; (James cd.), 115-116; Paloii, ,\'olicias, II, 289. This was the first use of these extensive forests for construction purposes of which there is at hand any record. "Palou, Vida, 128; (James cd.), 124. "L,a primera obra que mando hacer fue una grande Cruz, que bendita, enarbolo (ayudado de los Soldados y Sirvientes) y fixo en la niediania del tranio destinado para compas, que cslaba enmediato a la Barraca de su habitacion, y otra que servia dc intcrina Iglt-sia, siendo su compania y todas sus delicias aquella sagrada .Senal. .\dorabala luego que anianecia. y cantaba la Tropa el .Mabado, y delante de ella rezaba el Sicrvo de Dios Maytines y Prima, c ininediatanienle celeiiraba el Santo .Sacrificio de la Misa. a que asisliaii todos lo9 Soldados y Mozos. Despues comcnzaban todos su trabajo, cada uno en su (lestino, siendo Ingeniero y Sobrcstante de la obra el \'. Padre, quien muchas veccs al dia adoraba la Santa Cruz, rezando delante de ella el oficio Divino. " "Palou, Notiaas, II, 291-294. '*Luego dc concluida la fundacion de la mision de San Antonio (I<- l*nrlt,:i paso al real presidio dc Monterey el reverendo padre presidente, y aunque dcscaba con MISSION' SAN CARI/)S IQ and promote tlie work ol the church aiul dwellings. With this purpose in view he journeyed to the banks of tlie Carmel, the first of August of the said year, 1771, accom- panied by tlie five soldiers. "The three sailors and four California Indians, assisted by the soldiers, had already cut timbers. Work waj5 begun, and soon a small chapel was erected together with living quarters of four rooms, a large room for a granary, and also a house to be used as a dwelling and kitchen for the boys. All were of wood and had flat roofs and were en- closed in a good stockade. In the corner of the square there was a house, also with a flat roof, for the soldiers, and near, some corrals for the cattle and stock. As the workers were few, and progress could not be rapid because all the tools and utensils were in the old mission joining the Royal Presidio, work was not finished and the re- moval was not completed until the last of December of the said year of 71, in which year all was moved, the two ministers of the mission remaining to say mass at the Royal Presidio until establishment of the new mission was entirely completed. "After its removal the mission of San Carlos was in a pleasant location, situated on a hill with a view over an extensive plain, which promises abundant crops. It ex- tends along the Carmel River whose waters flow all the year, for although in dry seasons the water is not very plentiful, in rainy seasons no crossing can be found. The plain has many trees, willow, and other kinds, blackberry bushes, and quantities of Castillian roses. Near by on the left, at the foot of the hill, is a good lake with so much water, especially in rainy seasons, that its banks cannot hold all that it receives from the hills, and at such times the water runs off in a large ditch to the sea, which is at a distance of little more than two gun shots, in a little bay south of the Punta de Pinos ; but in dry seasons the lake holds a quantity of good water, and has some springs. In rainy seasons, a dam formed in part by the hill extending across the lake makes it easy to retain enough water for all irrigating purposes on the plain. "The mission is surrounded by small hills with good pastures for all kinds of cattle; it has an abundance of firewood as well as timber for building purposes, such as pine, white elms, and some redwoods ; and at a distance of less than a league there are many cypresses on the point called by the same name, on account of the abundance of the trees; it has a beautiful sky, although after the rains the clouds are thick; the vivas ansias pasar a fundar la otra de San Luis Obispo, pero no era dable por la falta de soldados para escoltas, y asi dio mano a trasladar la mision como le encargaba su escelencia; para ello dispuso que en el real perninneciese ^u padre compafiero fray Juan Crespi, y los ministros destinados pa-a San Luis, y su reverencia determino pasar A vivir al paraje que habia seiialado en el Carmelo para idear la ohra rrs Missioux, II. .S ; Ivasuen Estado (ieneral, 1793-4. San Carlos, Mar. 11, 1795, in Archivo de la Mision dc Santa Barbara, XII, 57. "La iglesia de la Mision de S. Carlos se concluyo en el prescnte atio; cs toda de canteria: su lecbo es de teja y est.a bien provista de ornamentos y vitiles. . . ." Sal. Estado. Monterey, Dec. 31, 1797, in Archives of California, Stale Palters Missions, IT. 120. "La iglesia de San Carlos se bendijo y dedico por Sept dc 97 y esta buena." Lasuen Refort, 1797-8, San Carlos, Feb> 20, 1799, in Archivo dc la Mision de Santa Barbara, XII, 66. tIJancroft Collection, ms.). '"X'ancouver. A I'oyage of nisco:'ery. II, 33-36. There appears to be a serious discrepancy between Vancouver and Lasuen in reference to the date when the construction of the mission church was begun. \'ancouver gives the date of his visit as Dec. 2, 1792, and proceeds to describe the materials and methods used in building tlie church which be found in process of construction. On the other liand, Lasuen says the head mason did not arrive at Carmel until after tliat date and that six months more elapseil before the lirsl stcuie was laid. It is probable, therefore, that Vancouver may have confused the d.ates of his visit. lie was at .Monterey again in November and December, 1794, and it is iiossible bis notes and sketch may belong to that date rather than to the earlier visit, ibid.. Ill, 324-340. This is the opinion of Bancroft. ^ \ W i'-iS^i^ •■ ■''•3"^"Ak"> ^'' ^'H' ilS9lLv'/>\ ^v ^ jEi' 5 '^^^ iS'ir^ '^ ^ *v. ?^4\ ^tJFl.^^^ . fSL^.^^ite- -d^^^ .•'IST"^: -W^ , ' •'•"^'^^//w.' > ik'^^-i /r\ V ai^'ii ttuT^i ■Vj . .. \ •!ff~v . / '*Ml*;iflFjJ»JBIr7jMC ' J l*i,,J',- 1 *vU^^ • ' 1 .-J f?^^ ^EjniR^^ ' ' V , <\ ■ 'j 11 /^ fiPr^'f^ liiPl^iHIHI "--^MMKs™ n^m^r u^WI^^Ki ■^ ^i^^s ffi^l l^^-ii^^^W IP^^toS ^ir^HH . i^'^.vm IF^rj^' KM^MD&^i tii^HlH ^^J^^riVBOTl^K^^^^I ■■l^^p^'^'^H'Virfl r^^' '#^i^^Hi^l iHHnHIW/ fs^rn k'/v/v*^' ii^^HJ^MB^^P^^'im •»v ' ' ^^i^BIP^ , li^M ' ^'tMW&mi ' #'-'"^-'^-^ "■'* "~- '^' mf^^'^^ib^''^ ■ ''l^^|Si^,Mf^fc ^^^Mpm^ ^^HE '' ^^■■V'l'^^Mll^^^^ffi , #P^" ' :^HIIi ^P^fl^^^^ ■ w..^<,i-.>^.^ V;Jr.^; ^^^^^^^Hu. "^^^v ^ ^^^ejJJrfetB^^^B^PMF ^.ai^fcli® ^^^^H ■H^^KHI ^^^oH Plate 1. Forest of Monterey I'uws. Aloian, photo. The value of tliis forest was noted by Vizcaino and Crespi. From it Serra obtained the timbers for San Carlos Mission. ~r „, « c MISSION SAN CARLOS 27 "In tlieir granaries were deposited a pretty large quantity of the different kinds of grain before noticed at the other establishments, to which was added some barley, but the wliole was of an inferior quality, and the return from the soil by no means equal to that produced at Sta. Clara. Here also was a small garden on the same confnied scale, and cultivated in the same manner as observed at the other stations. "An Indian village is also in the neighborhood ; it appeared to us but small, yet tlie number of its inhabitants under tlie immediate direction of this mission was said to amount to eight hundred, govenTed by the same charitable principles as those we had before visited. Notwithstanding these people are taught and employed from time to time in many of the occupations most useful to civil society, they had not made them- selves any more comfortable liabitations than those of their forefathers ; nor did they seem in any respect to ha\^ benefited by the instruction they had received. Some of them were at this time engaged under the direction of the fathers, in building a church with stone and mortar. The former material appeared to be of a very tender friable nature, scarcely more hard than indurated clay ; but I was told, that on its being exposed to the air. it soon becomes hardened, and is an excellent stone for the purpose of building. It is of a light straw colour, and presents a rich and elegant appearance, in proportion to tlie labour that is bestowed upon it. It is found in abundance at no great depth from the surface of the earth ; the quarries are easily worked, and it is I believe the only stone the Spaniards have hitherto made use of in building. At Sta. Clara I was shown a ponderous black stone, that father Thomas said was intended to be so appropriated as soon as persons capable of working it could be procured. The lime they use is made from sea shells, principally from the ear shell, which is of a large size and in great numbers on the shores ; not having as yet found any calcareous earth that would answer this essential purpose. The heavy black stone is supposed to be applicable to grinding, and should it be found so to answer, it will be a matter of great importance to their comfort, since their only method of reducing their corn to flour is by two small stones placed in an iticlined position on the ground ; on the lower one the corn is laid, and ground by hand by rubbing the other stone nearly of the same surface over it. The flour produced by this rude and laborious process makes very white and well tasted, though heavy bread, but this defect is said by the Spaniards to be greatly remedied when mixed with an equal proportion of flour properly ground. "After w-e had satisfied our curiosity in these particulars we rode round the neighbor- hood of the mission. It was pleasantly situated, and the country, agreeably broken by hills and vallies, had a verdant appearance, and was adorned like that in the vicinity of Monterrey, with many clumps and single trees, mostly of the pine tribe, holly- leaved oak and willows ; with a few trees of the poplar and maple, and some variety of shrubs, that rather incommoded our travelling, which was chiefly confined to one of the vallies, and within sight of the buildings. Through this valley a small brook of water about knee-deep, called by the Spaniards Rio Carmelo, takes its course, passes tlic buildings of the mission, and immediately empties itself into tire sea. "In this valley, near the sides of the Carmelo, a few acres of land exhibited a toler- ably good plant of wheat; but as the soil here, as well as at Monterrey, is of a light sandy nature, its productions are consequently inferior to the other two missions I had visit'ed ; yet I was given to understand, that the interior country here, like that at St. Francisco, improves in point of fertility, as it retires from the ocean. "On our return to the convent, we found a most excellent repast served with great neatness, in a pleasant bower constructed for that purpose in the garden of the mission." Elsewhere it is stated that in December, 1793. while in San Diego, Vancouver presented the president of the mission with a "iiandsome bar- 28 ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY relied organ" for the use and ornament of the new church which was being built at the presidency of the missions at San Carlos.-" Tlic Quarters of the Neophytes, 1800. In his report for 1800 Father Lasuen, the president of the missions, describes the nature of the dwellings used by the Christianized Indians, criticism of which has been seen in the descriptions by both Laperouse and Vancouver. He also describes in some detail the dormitory of the girls and immarried women. The report reads as follows :-' ".'Mthough the houses of the Neophytes do not differ in material and form from those which the Gentiles use, they are indeed different in cleanliness and good condition. Ordinarily the missionaries and also the Christian Indians continue improving the arrangement of their houses and rarely will one condescend to live in a small hut like he had in his Gentilism. In the channel of Santa Barbara the natives never use similar small huts. They have always, in contrast with the remainder of those in sub- jection, houses sufficiently roomy. They are built of paling and thatch and because of this e.xposed to fire. It is well known that for many years neither in missions, nor in pueblos, nor in presidios had there been churches, dwellings nor storerooms of any other material. Of the latter some rooms are still preserved, in many places as in the royal presidio of San Francisco almost all. Accordingly, as they have been able, or as they now find themselves able they construct buildings of adobe or of stone roofed with tile. In this manner are the houses of the Indians ( I do not know how this has been reported by the Governor or any of the commandants) of San Francisco and Santa Clara built. Many are furnished with metates, earthen pans, round pots, stewing pans and even little ovens for cooking bread, while others have much more than these. "The girls and the unmarried women (wrongly called nuns) are gathered together and locked up at night in their quarters. This provision is taken for convenience and it may be said for necessity, for all possible care is taken that nothing may compromise their safety. It has been observed tliat rarely do those in this rank and station die, nor do they run away and take refuge in the mountains. They have spacious rooms fur- nished with chairs and with sufficient ventilation. Here in San Carlos (and the same will happen in other missions) they have changed their dormitory many times, seeking each time better accomodation until they have been able to construct the form desired by the missionaries. ""Vancouver, A I'cyage of Discovery, II 472. This organ was still in use in 18.^7, wlien Du Petit-Thouars visited the mission. ^'Representation. Nov. 12, 1800, in Archivo tic la Mision dc Santa Barbara, II, 179-181. ".\unque Jos .Mojnitos de los Neofitos no sc diferencian en sus niateriales, y en su formacion de los que usan los Gentiies, jiero si en la linipicza, y hnena condicion, de el regularmte andan los P,Iissioneros y aun tambien los Cliristianos inejorando la disposicion de sus casas, y raro sera el que se acomode ya a vivir en choza cstrccha, como la t|ue tenia en su Cientilidad. Kn el Canal de Sta Barbara nunca usaron los naturales semejtes chozas estrechas, spre tubieron a diferencia de los restantes de csta conquista viviendos suiicientemte capaces. Si son aliora como antes de palisada, y zacatc, y pr eso cxpuestas al incendio, cs bien sabido (|ue en niuclios anos, ■ ni en misiones ni en pueblos, ni en presidios luvo iglesias abitaciones, ni oficianas dc otra calidad. Y de esta misma se conserva todabia algutias piezas, en mnchas partes (juc y en el Rl presidio de Sn Franco casi todas. .Segun se ha podido. y se va pudiendo se hacen fabricas de adove, o de piedra techadas de teja. .Asi estan ya, fiio se como no lo ba diio el Sor. Govor. o algo de los Comandtes] las casas de los Indios, de Sn. Franco, y Sta. Clara, siirtidas muchas dc mas, y se iran surtiendo las otras de nictates, comales, ollas cazuelas ye hta de ornitos pa coccr pan. . . . A lo mismo sc aspira en las dcmas misiones. '*Las muchachas y solteras [Monjas pr mal nomhre] se recogen, y se encierran de noclic en un cuarto. Si esta i)rovidcncia sc loma pr convtc y puede decirsc pr nccesaria. se cuida todo lo que cs posibc que no sea en perjuicio de su salud. Efectivamtc, se ha obscrvado, que rara de las dc cste cslado, y regimen se nuieren, si no es de las que dan en hnirse, y retirarse al monte. Sc tiencn pa cso piezas capaces, asendas, y dc correspondtc ventilacinn. .\qui en Sn. Carlos, [y succdcra lo mismo en otras missiones] se Ics inudo mucbes veces cl dormitorio, buscando cada vcz mejor comodidad hta que llcgo cl tpo dc poderlo hacer scgun el decco dc los misioneros. "Es por cicrto en cl dia la mejor jiicza, - •^ <^ ^ ^ -rto*-"-"^*"-) ?;s!:?tt::? ■s « 1 =r- Pi,.\Ti; 7. Kuins uf San CarU'S, about jS,6. This photograph by Muybridge is a very early picture of the mission ruins and is of value in that it gives many items of detail regarding the buildings in front of and adjoining the church. The ruined wall in the foreground to the right retained the doorway leading into the court, while it also shows the floor timbers and windows for the rooms of the second floor. The markings upon the Iruul of the church show plainly the- heiglit and slant of the roof line. Plate ». Restoration of San Carlos Mission by Oriana Day, tHii^. Tliis must not he taken as of the same value as the photographs, or sketches, but merely as an attempt of an artist to reproduce a scene at the mission as it had been described. It is said to represent the ideas of General M. G. Vallcjo as he saw the mission before the time of secularization. 36 MISSION SAN C.\KI/)S 37 lized tile ground, showed that even curiosity did not often tempt visitors to its deserted precincts. One corner of the church began to show the ravages of time : its cornice had talkn, and weeds had already taken root among its opening crevices. The remains of an orchard and vineyard, are still seen near, in a decaying state. Small pine trees cover the hills within a short distance of the church ; and on its other side, the ocean rolls up its waves with a dull monotonous sound, which adds to the solitary . feeling of the place." Title Confirmed to Church, 1859. Whereas it had been the plan of the Mexican g-overnment, under the excuse of secularization, to exploit the missions and jilace their ])roperty for sale, it l)ecame the pohc}' of the United States government to confirm to the church authorities full title to those lands that had been used for religious purposes, such as the church site, burial grounds, orchards and gardens. In accordance with this policy the United States Land Commission awarded to Bishop J. S. Alemany, as head of the Catholic Church in California, the title to a tract of land containing nine acres known as Mission Carmelo. The land was first surveyed by the church authorities in 1854 when presenting their claims before the United States District Court (plate 5). This is the first survey extant of the mission buildings and lands. An official survey (plate 6) was made by the United States government in December, 1858, and formed the basis for the issuance of the patent which was granted the church authorities October 19, 1859.-" Later Descriplioiis and Photographs. The ruins of San Carlos, the roof of which fell in during the year 1852,"'* continued to attract people interested in the romantic and picturesc|ue. Mr. H. H. Bancroft, after a visit to the mission in 1874, wrote the following description of the church as it then appeared : ■" "The cliurch is strong and well built, of irregularly hewn stone with a timbered roof on which had been laid brush or stick and covered with tiles. The building was in a state of ruins, part of the roof was otif but most of the walls were standing. It is "^The "Alemany Plat," so called, is preserved with the plats of the other twenty missions in the Archives of the United States District Court, San Francisco. Plate 5 is a reproduction of this document. Since all the other plats accompanying this one indicate the survey as Having been made during the fall of 185-1, that date is assumed for this also. It is to be noted that this plat gives more definite information regarding the quadrangle buildings than does the United States Survey made. four years later. The second plat is herewith reproduced (plate 6) as preserved in the Surveyor General's Archives, San Francisco. The field notes describing the mission buildings are taken from the Monterey County Archives and read as follows: "Beginning at a stake marked ".V. 1." at the northeast corner of the cemetery. Thence . . . south 28° 45' east, 95 links [62.7 feet] to the corner of the Church liuildings, 1.40 chains [92.1 feet] to station, at the angle formed by the church and adjoining build- ings. Thence, along the line of buildings 63'* 45' east 2.65 chains [175 feet] to station at a corner of the buildings. Thence south 31" 30' east, 1.60 chains [105.6 feet] to station, at corner as above. Thence north 58" 30' east, 15 links [9.92 feet] to station at corner as above. Thence south 31° 30' east, 2 chains [132 feet] to station at corner as above. Thence south 58° 30' west, 15 links [9.92 feet] to station at coi-ner as above. Thence south 31° 30' east, 74 links [48.8 feet] to station at corner above. Thence south 58° 30' west, 30 links [19.8 feet] to station at corner as above Thence north 31° 30' west, 41 links [27.1 feet] to station at Old Adobe Wall. Thence along the ruins of an old adobe wall south, 59° west, 5. IS chain's [342 feet] to a point marked 'A' station. Thence north 31° west, 4.44 chains [293 feet] to station at point of intersection of the old wall with a row of cliurch buildings. Tiience along the line of church buildings south 63° 45' west, 36 links [23.6 feet] to station at corner of buildings. Thence north 30° 30' west 51 links [33.66 feet] to station at corner of buildings. Thence north 57° east, 60 links [39.6 feet] to station at corner of buildings. Thence north 26° 15' west, at 40 links [26.4 feet] leaves the line of church buildings ' and along the ruins of the old adobe wall of the cemetery, 1.10 chains [72.5 feet] to a point marked 'A' station. Thence along the north boundary of the cemetery, north 68° 15' east, 2.51 chains [165.66 feet] to the point of beginning." Archives of the Recorder, Patents A, 435-436. '"Hutchings, California Magazine. IV (1859-60), 496. =»H. H. Bancroft. Personal observations, 1874, p. 210-211. 38 ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY 10 by 56 varus, tlie sacristy 7 by 14 varas. The walls were built without lime with an adobe mortar, except the finer ornamented stone work about the doors and windows which were put together with cement, or lime mortar. Six stone arches two feet wide thrown over head forming part of the ceiling still remained standing, though ap- parently ready to fall without much warning, threads of tottering stone-work. Bent pieces of timber overlaid the stone arches." Fortunately new elements now appear which have been found of great value to those now interested in reconstructing the missions. In the place of vague descriptions and sketches whose accuracy is open to serious ques- tion, lovers of bygone days began to take a more scientific interest in pre- serving a true record of the state of the missions as they had been in their prime, the camera also began to come into use with exact photographic repro- ductions of such ruins as remained. In this manner many important details overlooked by the writers and now long since obliterated have been preserved for all time. Among the earlier artists and photographers who have shown a special interest in the missions several names should be mentioned. Among these are Eduard \'ischer, C. W. J. Jnhnson, C. E. Watkins, E. J. ^luybridge, Perkins, Fiske and Taber, all of whom have made valuable contributions.*" First in time, if not in importance, is Eduard Vischer, whose mission sketches consti- tute a most valuable legacy. Three of these sketches are views of San Carlos ; unfortunately, however, since they are among his earliest work they do not give as much information as one would desire. Writing in 1872, he says of San Carlos -^^ "This mission, after an occupation of half a century, was, like others subsequent to the secularization neglected, and finally abandoned — and now only exhibits deserted walls. Besides the natural causes of dilapidation, vandalism was at work, wantonly defacing the interior of the cinircb ; more than all. the antiquarian mania and destruct- ive energy of one of the ^Monterey priests, who, in the fruitless search for Father Junipero's remains, upturning the graves of several generations, removed the altar, and, as a precaution against accident to the workmen there employed, had a great portion of the roof taken oft^, which was never replaced, and, subsequently, tire rafters, tiles, and all serviceable materi.-d were carried ofl^ for tlic use of neighboring settlers." The reference to vandalism is amplihcd in a note which states that "on the occasion of modern clam and chowder picnics and whisky sprees, more than once bonfires were lighted in the deserted church, using door frames anil ])aneling as convenient fuel."' At other times mounted men rode through the buildings amusing themselves firing their revolvers at the images and other objects. **Somc of Johnson's photographs nvv rcprocUiced in the frontispiece and hv olates 11 and 12. Plate 7 is from a Muybridge photograph, plates 10 and 41 from Fiske, plate 9 from Watkins and plate 21 from Perkins. "\'ischer. Missions nf Ufl'cr Califoniia, 1872, (San Francisco, 1872), appendix i-ii. He first visited California in 1842. .\t that time, while many of the missions had been practically abandoned, they still gave evidence of the greatness of earlier d,iys. He again came to California with the gold seekers and in 1861 began the task of preserving by means of carefully executed sketches tlie record of the missions as they tlien were. .\rchives were consulted and ruin heaps carefully examined in order that the work niiBht he done with accuracy. The collection was completed in 1878. Plate 9. Sun Callus Cliiirch before iSl'O. This enla-rgement from a stereo by Watkins is valuable not only as showing the condition of the church at the date indicated but also for other features of detail. The most striking feature is probably the exposed arch supporting the rnof. Attention is also called to the remains of a wall in the foreground to the left and to the do irway into the dome on the larger tower. This is repro- duced from a stereograph in the State Library. umit'-Ji'j^;-'''*^ I'l ^tin ( arios L hureh about 16^2. This is a view similar to tlie preceding, but taken at a later date, is evidenced by the more ruined condition of the roof. Attention is here called to the cross timbers, the ends of which are visible along the stone walls; to the buttresses, which are also well reproduced; as well as the remains of the high wall around the smaller burial ground. It should also be noted in this as in the preceding photograph that the sacristy had been covered by a roof of shakes at an earlier date. This is a Fiske photograph (No. 601) from a copy made by Mr. C. B. Turrill from liis collection. iO Plate 11. Sau Carlos Mission Chiirrh. about /.S'.V,'. Johnson, photo. Platk 12. San Carlos Mission Church, After the Keslortition of iSS^. Johnson, photo. 40 MISSION SAN CAKLOS 4I More thorough work in photographing tlie missions was done hy C. \i. Watkins in the late seventies and early eighties. Eduard \'ischer, a con- temporary critic, says of his views : "His fine conception and splendid effects deserve the highest encomium. . . Could views of similar merit and cfifects have been taken in early times of all the missions as they stood within our recollection, such undertaking, now greatly inter- ferred with by decay as well as many renovations, would have been of inestimable value to the historian or antiquary." Mission Restoration. No account of the history of San Carlos Mission would he complete that did not consider the various attempts at repair and restoration, some of which has greatly modified the form and appearance of the mission church. The first recorded action of this character was made by Father Sorentine, the parish priest, in March, 1856. At this time little or no attempt was made to repair or restore the ruined buildings, but only to locate the body of Father vSerra among the ruins of the stone church. In writing the results of this investigation. Father Sorentine says :*- "The next day, the 11th [of March], the dirt that was in the altar fell on the gospel side and following the traditional directions, we began to e.xcavate and we found in this one a well sealed vault, with a coffin, in which there was a priest with a stole and good vestments. We could see by the stole that it had epaulettes of fine gold, easily recognized. This body of a priest that we found, so luxuriously vested, something that none of the others had, makes me believe that it is one we are looking for." But little was done until about 1884 when a new interest in the mission was aroused by the opening of the resort at Del Monte. Mrs. Leland Stanford and others became interested in the ruined mission and plans were made to render the church once again suitable for worship. By this time practically the entire roof had fallen in and many of the walls, espe- cially those at the south corner, had crumbled and fallen. As the result of this endeavor, the church was once again habilitated, the walls being rebuilt and a new roof placed upon it. Unfortunately, however, at this time repair was considered more impor- tant than restoration, the result being a repaired church which artistically was far inferior to the original structure. The chief and outstanding fault was that the new roof line was twelve or more feet higher than the older one and consequently at a much greater pitch. The former tile roof was low and with its gentle slope gave the church an appearance of greater length and beauty. The new roof with its exaggerated prominence gives '-Letter of Cayetano Sorentine to Bishol' Amat. Monterey, March 12, 1856, in the Delfina dc la Guerra Collection, Santa Barbara. Translated by Miss de la Guerra. 42 ARCHITECTURAI, HISTORY the towers a squatty appearance unknown to the padres, and otherwise entirely changes the appearance of the church. This was to some extent made necessary by tlie substitution of shingles for the old tile roofing, although it is probable that even with this in mind the original line could have been more closely followed. No attempt was made at that time to restore any of the outlying buildings which composed the quadrangle. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES The first Slnicliircs, J771-177S. The first buildings constructed on tlic Carniel site were made of wood, easily oljtained in abundance from the nearby forest of pines. Both Palou in his Xoticias and Serra in his report of 1773 describe these teni])orary buildinL;s and the rude stockade, which during the earlier years. served as an additional protection against pilfering and pos- sible hostile attacks of the natives. This stockade, which Serra says was something more than seventy varas long by forty-three wide, was made of rough palings. It enclosed most of the mission buildings but not all of them, for the soldiers' barracks were just outside. In a prominent place was the cross and near at hand the hut of Father Serra and another crude structure which served in part as the provisional church. Palou says further that this chapel was one of six rooms in a house fifty by seven varas in size, four of the rooms being used as living quarters and another as a store room or granary. These were all built of wood and had fiat mud roofs. That they were not permanent buildings may be judged from the nature of the material of which they were constructed, as well as by the fact that they were erected in such a very short time when laborers were scarce. Palou mentions onl\- twelve men as working with Father Serra. ■*■' Other Build ill i^s, 777-/. Several other Ituildings were constructed tiuring 1774. As they were built partially of adobe it is probable that they were more permanent in character. Serra mentions five buildings about thirty by seven varas in size, as being constructed that year. One of these served as a work shop, two were for married servants, one was for the surgeon and another for the smith. Another wooden building with thatch roof w-as built for the captain of the guard. The record does not say that these buildings were within, or a part of, the enclosure mentioned the year before, and from the fact that no enclosure is mentioned thereafter until the completion of the later court in 181 5, it is very probable that with the construction of more secure buildings the temporary stockade had been abandoned. These build- ings were grouped around the open space spoken of as the mission plaza. The location of these early buildings in relationship to the later court and ruins now extant must be largely a matter of conjecture.''* The .-idobe Church. It is regretted that reports are not available for the twenty years following 1774, the only evidence at hand being passing" refer- ences found in the account of the death and burial of Father Serra in 1784, and at the time of the visit of Laperouse in 1786. From these we gather that Serra was then living in a small room or cell made of adobe, which was "See historical statement, ante, 18. **For their conjectural location and form see plate 44. 46 ARCHITECTURAI, HISTORY a part of and closely connected with several other rooms : that the church was about one hundred varas from Serra's cell : and that the former was of con- siderable size since it could accommodate nearly all of the six hundred people present at Serra's funeral. This church had a place for the choir, a side room used as a sacristy, and there were several stations of the cross within the church. Laperouse in 1786 speaks of this church as being "very neat, although covered with straw," and says that the president of the mission met him at the church door and conducted him to the foot of the "high altar."^^ From these passages it is certain that the church of 17S4 and 1786 was not the same as the temporary structure of 1773 and of course it cannot be the same as the present stone church which was not begun until 1793. There must therefore have been a church erected sometime ]M-evious to 1784 of which the records do not make satisfactory statement. Lack of direct evi- dence makes it very difficult to speak definitely regarding the nature or location of this second church. ;\Iany indications however point to its being located upon the site of the present building and that the position of the altar was identical with that of the present altar. If we may assume, as many things indicate, that Serra".'. room was located at or near the spot now marked by tradition as his death chamber, we have some basis by which to guide us in locating this church. Laperouse in 1786 says the mission- aries' house at that time was in front of the church, and Palou furnished the information that the distance Serra walked from his cell to the altar was "more than one hundred varas."*" The location of the present church satisfies very well both of these conditions. Furthermore the absence of any record of the removal of bodies of Fathers Crespi and Serra. who were known to be buried in the older church, tends to confirm the belief that such was not necessary because of the fact that the new structure was erected upon ground already made holy not only by the ministration of these men but also as the resting place of their remains, and that the altar of the new was upon the site of the altar of the old church. Upon this point Father J. .Adam says : "Before concluding, it may be proper to answer the question a.s to what became of that church of stone, of which Fr, Junipero spoke when, just before dying, he requested Fr. Palou to lay his body close by that of Fr. Crespi, remarking : 'When they build the church of stone, let them throw me where they like.' Can we for a moment suspect tliat liis religious friends had so liltk- respect for his memory as to let him be buried outside of the consecrated ground ? By no means. Why, then, is no notice taken of the removal of the remains of Fr. Crespi and Fr. Junipero from the old church to the new one? It is the general opinion of the old residents of Monterey that the new stone church, alluded to by Father Junipero. was built on the same spot where the old edifice stood, and according to this supposition the graves of the two first missionaries remained undisturbed and enclosed within the sanctuary of the new church, on the gospel side, as they were in the temporary building."'' '•'Serra's (juarters are described as ".su ({uartitu 6 celda (ilie tenia de adoves." Palou, I'uio, 270. I'or otlier references see Historical Narrative, atitc. 21-22. *'^Two hundred seventy-eight feet. *'.*\(!ams translation of Palou, Life of Serra, 149. 47 Front Eleyation of Church - San Carlos Borromec Br Frances Hand Smilh Plate 14. - u / \ s. =. Rear Elevatiun of Church - San Car [05 Borromeo br Frances Hand Smith Scof9 ^ . -J' Plate 15. 48 r o o o or o CO K O o ex o O < < -i _ Q I c c o r: n o JZ o U m i: /) o u. ^ O ci: z ' < o LJ 1- ?^ cC UJ y) _J U ^. u o u lO J5 LO X. <[H 50 MISSION SAN CARLOS 51 Using; the Sykcs sketch of 1794 as a basis for furtlicr deduction we must conckide that at least durin.s; the construction of the stone church, services were held clsewiicre than upon the site just considered as that of the ado1)e churcli. It is however extremely probable that at that time a room of some existing- building may have served this jjurixise as had been done during the earlier years. \'ancouver in 1794 sjieaks of the stone church a'^ intlie process of construction but makes no mention of the place of worship used at that time. The cross shown upon the building to the left in the Sykes sketch would seem to indicate that for the time being it was used as the church (plate 2). The Stone Churcli. Since the mission was primarily a religions institution it is customary to think of the church as the chief if not the only building connected with the establishment. Because also of the fact that at many mis- sion sites the church alone now stands amidst the falling ruins of outbuild- ings it has to many minds come to be the belief that the church or chapel was the mission. This is untrue to fact. The church was the center of the religious life and around this the whole of the mission activities revolved but it did not alone constitute the mission, for in the days of the Spanish padres church, school, living quarters, workshops, granaries, fields and flocks each occupied an essential i^art in the make up of a typical California mission. Chief among these buildings was naturally the mission chapel or church. As has been noted in a preceding paragraph the present church is the third to be built at Carmel. It measures one hundred sixty-seven feet four inches in total length and varies in width from fifty feet four inches at the north end to sixty-two feet at th.c sanctuary end, the difference in width being due to the baptistry and the sacristy respectively. The church proper is thirt3-nine feet wide. The main walls are approximately five feet in thickness. It is constructed of sandstone, obtained near at hand. As previously stated the present appearance of the church dates from 1S84 when an effort was made under Father Casanova to restore it so that religious services could be resumed. A radical modification was made at this time, due to an attempt to give the roof a steeper incline, since shingles were to be substituted for roofing tiles. To accomplish this the peak of the roof was raised some twelve feet, while on the other hand the eaves over the chapel were lowered. The result of all this is to give the roof a prominence never dreamed of by the original builders. The accompanying elevations show the roof lines and walls as they stood before these changes were made, and when the church had the appearance of greater length and dignity. In this construction was a fitness of proportion characteristic of Spanish architecture. By the use of photographs and traces left upon the building itself many of these points have been determined with a very marked degree of certainty. Through these various means the original ^2 ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY height of the roof has been fixed at thirty-seven feet at its peak, and twenty-six feet at the eaves. When built at these (Hniensions the main tower stood twenty-six feet above the peak of the roof and the cross even higher, while the smaller tower exceeded the height of the roof by nine feet. Six bells hung in these towers as late as 1852. ■"* The larger tower is reached by an outside stairway, and is capjied with a hollow dome of stone masonrv, to which an entrance could be had from the northwest side (plate 9). There was originally an exterior entrance into the balcony through the larger belfry tower, the ceiled passage way being still noticeable. Interior of the Church. The interior of the church of San Carlos Bor- romeo is one of the most picturesque of all the missions of California. The main chapel is twenty-eight feet eight and one-half inches in width and measures one hundred twenty-five feet four inches from the front wall to the first step approaching the sanctuary, from this point to the rear wall there is an additional twenty-five feet ten and one-half inches. This area is sep- arated from the remainder of the church by a low railing as well as being elevated several inches above the floor level. Subdued light is permitted to penetrate the thick walls through compara- tively narrow windows, three on the left of the entrance and four on the right. A most interesting star window over the front entrance furnishes additional light to the church through the balcony. The beauty of the nave was enhanced by an arched ceiling, the massive tile roof being supported by arches constructed in a most skillful manner. This is shown by photographs taken during the time the mission was in ruins. Of particular value upon this point is the photograph of the interior published by W. Clarence Brown (plate 19). This photograph is remarkable because it includes two of the three stone arches before their destruction, and it is particularly valuable in that it represents the best and most intricate construction in the church. Only at Carmel were stone arches extensively employed. As seen in the photograph the spring of the arch began on a line corresi)onding to the base of the windows, the curve being gradually met in the massive walls and stone pilasters (plates 19, 20, 21). From the line of the richly ornamented cornice the arch was built strictly for utility and it was the contact with the stone pilasters, the increased proportion of the upper wall, and the buttress against the same scctiim (plate i,V) which gave the line of thrust its resistance. In plate 20 the curve is drawn with the original contour showing the slight arch of the three sections. This con- struction has been referred to as a nave roof of vaidtcd and ancient con- "See note 36, page 34. Two of tliese were added in 1820, see note 24, page 31. There were in all twenty-four bells located around the mission court, "el nuniero de las canipanas colocadas en distintos puntos del cerco de esa mision, ascendia a veintc y cualro." \';dU'jo, Histaria de Cali- fornia, I. 67-8. Cross- section of Church — Son Carlos Borromeo 3t Frances J^and Smith Note- This Ctois-iect'oi/uas tfrow/i Jea /a upon the Ciibumfjt'icrr that fhz cross-bt,o/ni 1 3 I S wv.ra a part of the original structure. Pi.ATi-: 18. TlatK 19. Ruined lulcnor of Lhui.ii. Brow n, photo. 53 ills: ^ " »> S ^ u Cm rt ■"£ ° _ g2.= J o — ^^ =■= " S;iij:-S 54 o o 55 I '-3~— i^ r^^^'^ /-&-} A ./i.- viooj Door -^ '//,,'// '/,/////^/// ^cole IrOii CriIU V* l-o' i- H Entrance fo Church — 5an Carlos dorromeo. Ccirmel ~ Caljforn/'o - Plate 24. 5(i MISSION SAN CARLOS 57 struction.''" So unusual is the construction tliat it is (juite possible the principle of the catenary curve may have been used in these arches. In addition to the three stone arches supplemental wooden arches also helped to sustain the roof. Caps, which are still a part of the interior stone cornice, mark, it is said, the places upon which these wooden arches rested. One stone arch has remained and is quite as perfect as the day it was constructed. Although there is but little spring, it supports the spacious bal- cony. In the photographs it appears to be spanning the main entrance. Upon entering the great doorway (plate 24), one may turn to the right and find a steep and narrow stairway. Twenty irregular sandstone steps, meas- uring about two feet six inches in length, one foot two inches in width, and with a nine inch rise, make two complete turns around a column of stone nine inches in diameter. These steps, worn by the tramp of Indian, priest and tourist, lead to the balcony, which is lighted by the famous star window. (Plate 23.) The baptistry to the left of the entrance is a memento of workmen skilled in stone-cutting. For it should be stated that the numerous carvings in the soft sandstone used throughout the great walls of the church, form one of its most interesting features, the granite foundations upon which the edifice is built having provided resistance against earthquake and storm. Four columns support a Gothic ceiling, the ribs of which are carefully propor- tioned and are constructed of short lengths of sandstone. The floor of the baptistry is paved with tiles. The entrance is an arched doorway of stone (plate 25). A. framework of wood fitted within the stone arch held perpen- dicular rods which formed an open screen.^" The chapel located at the left adjoining the baptistry is reached by the most elaborate doorv^'ay in the church (plate 26). Although the room meas- ures twenty-eight feet by fourteen feet in size it is lighted by one small window whose outer curves are simple and effective. These outer lines appear to have represented a halo and the window probably held a small statue (plate 28). Upon the wall of this chapel is a colored decoration includ- ing a prayer in Spanish. This chapel may also be entered by means of an outside door.^^ As one approaches further toward the altar another door is found leading to the left into the mission court. This is also shown in many of the photo- graphs giving an exterior view of the church. It will be noticed that in the photographs by Johnson and others taken before 1884 that with the excep- tion of the arched top, the doorway is without ornamentation. During the rebuilding the arched top was made square and it is said that the sand- stone carvings from the doorway of the priest's quarters, then in ruin, were ^■'Benton, The California Mission and its influence upon PaciHe Coast Architecture, in West Coast Magazine, Vol. IX, May, 19II, No. 2. See also Judson, "The Architecture of the Missions," in Annual Publication of the Historical Society of Southern California. VII (1907-08), 116. ^"Unfortunately the original baptismal font was badly damaged by vandals. Father Sorcnline to Bishop Amat, March 12, 1856. Ante, note 42. It was later taken to Santa Cruz but subsequently returned to San Carlos. ^'Paintings in this room were seen as late as 1837. Ante, note .^3. This has been referred to as the chapel of the Crucifixion. San Francisco Call Aug. 29, 1.SS4, and may have been the Chapel of the Pasion del Senor, built in 1818. Ante, note li. 50 ARCIIITFXTURAL HISTORY transferred and inserted withm this doorway of the church ("plates 30 and 31). The altar of the church is approached by steps of excellent proportion which extend the width of the building, while a spacious arch in the rear wall gives added dignity. A plaque found in the debris of the altar (plate 32) was presented to !Mrs. Leland Stanford by Father Casanova and is now in the collection of mission relics in the museum of Stanford University. This is outlined in gold paper and a circle of red pigment, probably ochre. The wood carving shown in plate 33 is a part of the same collection. To the right within the railing is the doorway to the sacristy (plate 34). The irreg- ular shape of certain walls of the sacristy makes it quite probable that this part belonged to a group of buildings erected previous to the building of the stone church. It may have been the one shown in the sketch by Sykes in 1794. In the sacristy is to be seen one of the well built stairways of the mission. This stairway is the approach to the pulpit, the floor of which is a solid piece of sandstone carving. The door of the pulpit is hand carved and is the same in design as that in the main doorway at San Fernando. It is probable that the designer at San Carlos worked also at San Fernando. The lavabo in the sacristy ranks as one of the finest examples of stone carving in the mission (plate 35). The Mission Qiiadraui^lc. The records do not specif\- when the buildings composing the (|uadrangle were erected except that the report of 181 5 says that the court was entirely enclosed by the construction of fifty varas of build- ings during the preceding year."'- It is probable that with the building of the stone church the center of mission life was shifted from the early plaza shown by Svkes to the area now ^^een to have been the mission enclosure. The exterior limits of this quadrangle as shown in the ground plan here- with produced ( plate 43 ) are based \\\ion actual survey of the extant ruiiis supplemented by the plat and field notes of the United States engineer who made the survev when the lands were patented to the church. This survey was made by J. E. Terrell in December, 1858, and may be considered as rep- resenting the outline of the buildings and ruins as they stood at that date. Unfortunately it is not possible to identify accurately all of the corners in reference to buildings existing at present. It may be probable that the mission was then in such a state of dilapidation that it was imjiossible for the surveyor to determine the original purj^ise and relationship of the exist- ing ruins, it is, therefore, to be expected that iirescnt ruins may not in all cases be capable of identification upon the surveyor's plat and that in places the survey may not properly represent the external lines of the court. The most noticeable feature to be seen in studying this plat is tliat the court does not constitute a true rectangle, but was probablv linilt lo ccinform t^ -J H I dJ E /-s vo 1 PC "i y 2S o * ^q U. > 2 £Q > \ \ \ / r \ v / \ I u r 2 o Q 2 5 O o 2 D a: CO ■^ T o a 2 >• or -„c.f 61 ^m''^ '^'ii^^- I :> »* a *■• . j v^~' ' .c;'' * ' r»rB^ /-Z/ ^ K ^ X <,> >s s ^J ^ 'S vS "^ MISSION SAN CARLOS 65 Adjoining" the church upon its frnnt and eastern corner stood the building's which began, or rather, continued the enclosure. A recent survey confirms the United States plat when it indicates that they did not join the front of the church at right angles but at an angle of eighty-seven and one-half de- grees/'^ That these buildings joinerl upon the front of the church there can be no question, although at present there are no adobe remains within approx- imately forty feet of the church, this space having been used for many years as a driveway. The evidence supporting the claim that the ruins connected with the church is as follows: In the first place, it is stated in the mission report of 1815 that the quadrangle was enclosed and various descriptions after that date mention definitely this enclosure; second, photographs by Muybridge and Johnson show very plainly a wall extending northward from the church for a distance not less than twenty-five feet, while numerous other photo- graphs taken before the restoration of the church show markings upon the facade of the church such as would be made only by adjoining buildings, which had but recently fallen away or had been removed;"'^ and third. the remaining adobe ruins and stone foundations indicate a continuation of the buildings which, if extended, would join the church in such manner as to explain the markings in the photographs referred to. From the data at hand the first section has been restored. The side walls are formed by continuing existing ruined walls. The end is determined from certain foundation stones to be found extending eastward from the corner of the church. This portion was probably used by the mission priests as living quarters, as indicated in the accounts of Laperouse in 1786 and Du Petit-Thouars in 1837, as well as by present day tradition. On the other hand, an examination of the Sykes sketch made at the time of A'ancouver's visit shows upon the right and in front of the stone church, then being con- structed, a long building surmounted by a cross, thus indicating that it may then have been the temporary mission church. The buildings nearer the northern corner of the court are fortunatelv in a better state of preservation. Existing adobe ruins laid hare by excavations under Father R. M. Mestres show plainly the postion and thickness of these walls (plates 36-40). That this portion of the building at least was more than one story in height is indicated by a jNIuybridge photograph (plate 7). In it are to be seen the elevation of the wall above the top of the door with projecting floor beams and windows for the upper floor. It is probable that the upper story was a loft which covered the whole of this range of buildings. The ground plans for the buildings along the northeastern side of the court were worked out from existing ruins, photographic evidence, and from, other data gathered several years ago. In the corner is one large room.^^ ^'See note 37. -'"'See any front view of church about 1S80 or before. "The author saw this as one large room in 1908 before the excavation made for road work had removed a portion of the above ruins. 66 ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY Adjoining this room to the east are the adobe remains of three smaller ones. Tliese rooms are about sixteen feet wide inside measurement, and measure respectively twenty-nine, sixteen and eight feet in length. These three rooms are six feet narrower than the corner room previously described, the extra space being occupied by a portico of that width as shown in the sketch of Wm. Smythe (plate 3). An excellent photograph by Fiske clearly shows that of these three rooms the larger one alone had a door or other exterior opening (plate 41). It may be of interest to note that this door has a striking similarity to the one removed from the adobe ruins during the restoration of 1884. and placed at the side of the stone church.^'" The other openings from these rooms into the court are of neces- sity largely conjectural, as the ruined walls fail to give satisfactory evidence as to their existence and location. In the restoration of the building adjoining those just described there is now but little to guide the investigator, for the ruined adobe walls which at one time continued the enclosure have now disappeared. However, know- ing from the documents that the court here was enclosed by buildings, and acting upon data obtained in 1908, before these walls had been entirely obliterated to satisfy a temporary demand for road material, this portion has been reconstructed. Acting upon this data these buildings have been indicated as of the same width as the room at the northeast corner. That in their general form and size these buildings have been correctly outlined there seems to be but little ground for doubt.''" The United States survey plat shows an extension of nine feet along a por- tion (if the northeast side of the court. Just what these lines represent is not determined in a fully satisfactory manner. It is probable, however, that they represent a projection such as a covered porch, as is suggested by the sketch of Wm. Smythe. Adjoining the corner of the court upon the east is a small rectangular space set ofi in such a manner as to indicate a building about twenty-six by nineteen feet in size. This was probably built in this manner to serve as a buttress to support the walls of the range of buildings just described, or it may have been a supplemental building added later. From these buildings the court turned to the southwest at an angle of ninety and one-half degrees. The inner wall of this portion is clearly shown by existing ruins which extend for a distance of about one hundred fifty feet.''" The outer wall of this jjortion of tlie quadrangle has disap])eare(i. but that an adobe wall did exist is indicated by notations upon the plat of the "^"A close examination of the I'iskc photograph referred to shows very clearly the ciiaractcrlstics of this doorway. ,\ccording to tlic statement of Father K. M. Mestres, this door of the church had been obtained from one of the adobe ruins. Ante, 57. ''■The evidence favoring this conclusion is as follows: First, the line of the United States survey indicates that the buildings here were wider than those j)reviously described, rather than narrower. Second, notwithstanding the many points of conflict between the sketcli of San Carlos in 1823 (plate 3), and tiie archeological evidence now at hand, the former does support strongly the idea of continuous and more or less uniform buildings. This also is borne out in the restoration of Oriana Day (plate 8), which, however, witlmnt furtlicr evidence, floes not stand as an independent source. Third, the Fiske photograph of 18S0 (plate 41). shows walls which liave now disappeared. Unfortunately, however, from the picture it is impossible to determine definitely the position of these walls with reference to their distance from the court. •'•"The first 30 feet have disaiipeared, this being used as a roadway. Plativ 36. Miiinnl cf Ruins. January, ig20. Coy, photo. ■ >*'';',-i--. -.^^JHJ r^ 1 ^^R^^^^'j^^l I'LAVii 3;. Same Moiui.i Alter li. Coy. photo. y^KiB: 1 ^K. ''X '^^^^B ■.^^^r??'" 11 .•^/'' >? J IF- •■•% ■>•-, '-•■ ^ ll k*> V '^ "■ > • n iajf^^HdH £■■ V'^^^^^^^^H ' -"v^ 68 .= S c o n o .7: rt w ^1; ^^ >; •/! -U ■^■-S 5 "5 5 S^ tn :S ; ■- -n — *- •"^ ■= p-sl 5 ■■-.2 — Plati: 42. Ruins of Missioit Quadrangle, January. igZi. Slevin, photo. Pi.ATK 4.1. Knnis of .\hs.tton (J nniirani^lr. i'y(i.\ Slevin, photo. 70 4 MISSION SAX CARLOS "I United States surveyor. Its foundations therefore will probably be revealed by future excavations. The windows and doors leading into the court have been restored in the ground plan approximately as shown in these ruins. At the end of the one hundred fifty feet just described the ruined adobe wall terminates in a \vcll-dcfinc(I curncr, thus indicating the end of a building. Acting upon the following statement by Ruschenbergcr that there was an entrance to the court on this side, a wagon entrance has been indicated in the ground plan at this point. I le says :''" "Tlie niission building is, ])crlia[)S. a lunidred yards square, one story liiiiii, and roofed witli tiles. We rode through the gate, which was just ready to fall from its hinges, into the great central court, round which it is built, where we found eight or ten hulians engaged in repairing the roof." In reference to the remainder of the f|uadrangle there is little evidence now to be found. It is probable that this portion of the cjuadrangle was constructed in a less substantial manner than the other parts. That the exterior walls were built of adobe is indicated upon the surveyor's plat,*'" but time has obliterated all surface traces of them as well as of the inner walls. It is ex- tremely probable that excavations now in progress will show the exact lo- cation of all these walls. That there were buildings enclosing the whole area of the mission court, however, is well established from documentary sources, and subsoil excava- tions have brought to light much corroborative data. In the annual report for the year 1815 it is stated that during the year there had been erected several building-s necessary to enclose the court."'- Ruschenbergcr in 1836 describes the mission as built around a great central court. Du Petit- Thouars, who visited the mission in 1837, states in his description that the court was enclosed on all four sides by buildings."- In addition to these statements there is the sketch of the rear of the mission in 1839 reproduced by Laplace,"^ which shows the greater portion to have been enclosed by buildings, although it is impossible to determine much regarding their form or the material of which they were constructed. It is not improbable that buildings of light adobe had been erected along these two sides of the court either for workshops or neophytes' dwellings. All the walls have now dis- appeared Ijut at the time of the survey of 1858 the outer and stronger wall of the adobe still remained, although even then in a ruined fonn. As the side of the court approaches the church it is noted that the outer wall does not connect with the rear wall of the stone church, but lies some fifteen or more feet to the rear. Furthermore the surveyor's plat seems to show a projection of the church into the rear. When comparison is made with the sketch reproduced Ijy Laplace these, irregularities are explained,"'' ■'"Ruschenberger, Xarratiz'c, 507. ""Notations on the plat definitely state that the wall on the southeast side was an adobe. The other is merely described as an "ok! wall." ^^Archiz'O Misioncs, Papcles Originalcs, I, 372. "Du Petit-Thouars, Voyage, II, 116. "'Laplace, Campagne, VI, 294 (plate 4). »'Plate 4. 7^ ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY for it is seen in the drawing tliat unless tlie laws of perspective were entirely disregarded the artist did not intend to show the rear wall of the court as joining directly upon the corner of the church, but rather several feet to the rear. The sketch then shows a lean-to building adjoining the rear of the church. There was probabl}' a door at the corner of the court between the rear wall and the churcli through which access was had to this outbuild- ing.*'^ From the representation of a corral around this structure it seems that it may have served in 1839 at least as a shelter for the milch cows. That there were numerous other buildings serving the purpose of the mission outside of the enclosure just described is indicated by the various reports and sketches which have come down from the earlier period. The Smythe sketch of 1823 shows several buildings located outside, in addition to the rude huts of the Indians. Excavations among the ruins surrounding the mission enclosure may disclose the location and form of many of these build- ings, but at present there is but little to indicate their number or location. It has been thought best, therefore, to include in this study only those build- ings which were a part of, or definitely attached to, the mission court.''" The Mission Bells. No description of San Carlos would be complete without reference to its bells, for the bells played an important part in the life of every Spanish mission. They made know-n the hour of rising and the time of morning worship. At their sound the neophytes went forth to toil and were summoned to food and rest. The bells pealed forth glad welcome to arriving friends and tolled their dolorous lamentation at the death of members of the mission family. Around the court at San Carlos hung some twenty-four bells of various sizes. At least six of these hung in the two towers of the church. Two of the larger bells were added during the year 1820. Unfortunately the only bell which has remained continuously at the mission has been recast during recent years, and but little is known regarding the history or present location of the other original bells. It is not improbable, however, that further research w'ill disclose many facts still unknown and may make possible the identification of some of the liells which have drifted away from their proper surroundings.''" Tlie Burial Ground. On the side of the chui-ch opposite the court lies the cemetery. All agree as to its position, but there is as yet no certainty as to its exact extent. This is due to the fact that a well defined wall di- vided the area described by various authorities as a cemetery into two dis- tinct parts."" The wider area is shown upon the plat of the survey of 1X58 and would allow for the burial ground space approximately one •"Visctier represents the w.ills of the buildings as being very massively built. *"For conjectural location of some of these buildings, see plate 44. '"For references regarding the bells, see notes 24, 36 and 48. .\ most valuable study of mission campanology is now being made by Mrs. Alice Ilarriman of I,os Angeles. "■This wall is clearly shown in the photographs reproduced herewith. (Plates S, 9 and 10.) GROUND PLAfN OF Mission SANCmiosBoj^Homo 5H0WI»Jfi CDNJECTVH^i- FORM RNDIOCAUOH Of STOCKADE, OUTBH\LDtH(^S.&t. By FRArtCtsf? Smith Plate 44. □ 73 74 ARCHITECTURAL HISTORY hundred sixt}- in length by shghtly less than sixty feet in average width. The smaller space lies near the church and is about one hundred long by twenty feet wide. That this latter was the burial ground seems indicated by the Smythe sketch of 1823. as well as that of Laplace of 1839. That this smaller space was inadequate for this purpose would appear very reasonable, but why a substantial wall should divide the grounds is an unsolved question unless the original burial ground had Ijeen enlarged, the wall being allowed to remain. Of the existence of this wall there can be no doubt. It is very distinctly reproduced in the Fiske photograph of the ruins of the Mission Church (plate 10), which shows the rear portion of the wall still standing up to a level with the eaves of the sacristy, a height of twelve feet. It is also clearly indicated in the "Alemany Plat," 1854. (Plate 5. ) .\ccording to tradition, an unmarked grave is situated in front of the mission church for the bandit Garcia, a member of the band under the leader- ship of A'asquez, who asked in his deathbed repentance, it is said, that he be buried where the worshipers of the mission might ever tread upon his grave. Before the great door of the church is another grave, that of the weary and worn little Costanoan Indian. This honor was earned when, during the strength of her young womanhood, she helped to bear the burdens in the building of San Carlos. In the shelter of the great stone walls of the mission of San Carlos Bor- romeo itself is the last resting place of the priests and Indians who were the Ijuilders of the mission. Here, too, rest Serra and Crcspi. who conceived the plan of the stone church, and Lasuen, wlio erected it. Thus, of the little band of four associates, in the convent school of Majorca (St^anish, Mallorca), in the Balearic Isles, Serra. Palou, \'erger, and Crespi, who in later life set out together on their high-souled missionary adventure to the New World, and all four of whom cooperated to the end in the work of building up the superb chain of California missions, it came to pass that two still sleep side by side. To the architectural beauty of the ruin at Carmel, the spot where Father Junipero lalioreil and died, Helen Hunt Jackson pays this trii)ute;'"' "His grave is iintler the ruins of the beautiful stone church of his mission, — the cluircli which he saw only in ardent and longing fancy. It .was perhaps the most beautiful, though not the grandest of the mission churches ; and its ruins have today a charm far exceeding all the others. The fine yellow tint of the stone, the grand and unique contour of the arches, the beautiful star-shaped window in the front, the simple yet efifective lines of carving on pilaster and pillar and doorway, the symmetrical Moorish tower and dome, the worn steps leading up to the belfry. — all make a picture whose beauty, apart from liallowing associations, is enougli to hold one s])ell-l)onnd." "Jackson, Helen Hunt, Gliml'scs of California and the Missions, 43. CXTflNT BUILDINq5 OR Rl/(«S -^ IHB Via PAHT5 RtSTOREO TROM PH0T04RAPM5 ^^ COMJtCTUI^AL LOCATION OFWALLS '— CZIl ANGLES L. INDICflTt POINTS Of 0&5£RVA~ TIOM fOR ?LATtS IN rtCCOMP/*P(YIN& TEXT ^^ SUfiVEV Of MissroN 5an CAfy.05 Borromco SHOWING EXTANT RurNSAns OTHER DATA PREP/tREOflT THE C^LIfOMM HIS70RIC/1L SURMVCOfln/SSION BIBLIOGRAPHY l^iuNTED Works Adam, J. See under Paloii. Ijancroft, H. H., History of California. San Francisco, 1884-1890. liartk-tt, J. R., Fcrsoiial intrrati-i'c of c xplorations and incidents. . . . dnring the years iSf,(>, 'ji, \^J and '5-;. New York, 1834. Ileechey, F. W., Narrati^'c of a i'oyai;e to the I'acifie . . . in the \ears 182 f,, '26. '-'7, '28. Philadelphia, 1832. Benton, Arthur ]'>., Tlie California mission and its influence npon Pacific Coast architecture, in the West Coast Magazine, X, 137-160 (May, 1911). Cole, G. W., iMissions and mission pictures; a contribution ton'ards an icon- ography of the Franciscan missions of California, in California State Library, A'czcs note. V (1910), 390-412. Duflot de Mofras, Eugene, Exploration du territoire de I'Oregon des Cali- fornics . . . pendant les amices 1840, 1841, ct 1842. Paris, 1844. Du Petit-Thouars, Abel, I'oyage autour du monde sur la frigate la J'einis pendant les annees, 1836-1839. Paris, 1840. F.ngelhardt. C. A. ( ('/; religion Zephyrin). The missions and niissionaires of California. San Francisco, 1908-1916. Hittell. T. H.. History of California. San Francisco, 1898. Jackson, Helen Hinit, Clinipses of California and the missions. IJoston, 1902. Judson, Wni. L.. Architecture of the missions, in Historical Society of Southern California, .hiuual Publications, \ll. 114-118. l,aperouse, lean Francois de Galaup, I'oyage de la Pcrouse autour du iMondc. Paris, 1798. Laplace. [Cyrille Pierre Theodore], Cainpagnc de Circunvurrigation de la frigate I'Artcniise pendant les annccs i8j/, 18^8. i83q ct 1840. Paris, 1841-1854. Palou, Francisco, A'oticias de la Nuezxi California. San Francisco, 1874. Relacion historica de la :'ida \ apostolicas tereas del I'enerable Padre Fray Junipero Serra. Mexico. 1787. Francisco Palou's life . . . of the Venerable I'ather Junipero Serra. Pasadena ( G. W. James), 1913. Life of J'en. Padre Junipero Serra. . . . Tr. by J 'cry Rei'. J. .Idaiu. San Francisco. 1884. Richman, Irving B.. California under Spain and Me.vico. New York, 191 1. Rusclienberger, ^^'m. S. W., .1 foyage round the leorld . . . in i8^£. i8j6 and 'f8j7. Philadelphia, 1838. T. H. S. The death and burial of Father Junipero Serra, in Hutching"s Illustrated California Magazine, IV (i860), 493-496. Vancouver, George, A z'oyagc of discovery . . . in the year Tjgo. ijgi, 1792, 179s, 1794, and i/QS- London, 1798. Vischer, Eduard, Missions of upper California, i8j2. San Francisco, 1872. ^Manuscript Material (Chiefly in the Bancroft Collection) Bancroft. H. H.. Personal Observations, 1874. De Croix to Fages. November 12. 1770, in Arcluvcs of California, Provin- cial State Papers, I, 69-71. Fages to Palou, May 29. 178^, in .Archives of California. Provincial Records, HI, 50. Infornie de San Carlos. December 31, 1810. in Archive de las Misiones, Papeles Originates, I, 328. Informe de San Carlos, December 31, 1S15. in Archivo dc las Misiones, Papeles Originales, I, t,'/2. Informe de San Carlos, December 31. 1818, in Archivo de las Illisiones, Papeles Originales. I, 432. Informe de San Carlos, December 31, 1820, in Archivo de las Misiones, Papeles Originales, I, 328. Informe de San Carlos, December 31, 1822. in Archivo de las Misioiia, Papeles Originales, I, 554-556. Lasuen to Arrillaga, June 7, 1794, in Archivo del Arcobispado de Sa)i Francisco. I, 38—39. I.asuen to Borica, December 10, 1794, in Archivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara. Papeles Miscelancos, \'I, 219-220. Lasuen, Estado general bienal 1793-4, Mar. 11, 1795, in Archivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara, Infonnes y Correspondencia, XII, 54-61. Lasuen, Report, 1797-1798, in Arcliivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara Papeles Miscelancos. XII, 65-68. Lasuen, Representacion, November 12, 1800, hi Archivo de la Mision dc Santa Barbara, Papeles Miscclaiieos, II, 154-240. Notas, March i, 1795. in Archives of California, State Papers Missions, 11, 4-8. Payeras, Report, Deceml)er 31, 1818, in Archivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara, In formes y Correspondencia, XII, 451-455. Payeras, Report, ^lay 4, 1S19, Ibid, 98-104. Sal, Estado, December 31, 1797. in Archi-res of California, .State Papers Missions, II, 120. Serra, Representacion de 21 Mayo, 1773, in .Irchi-i'cs of California. Provin- cial State Papers. I, 103-137, also in Archivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara. I, 83-1 18. Serra, Informe, 1774, in Archivo de la Mision de Santa Barbara, Infonnes y Correspondencia, I, 146-154. Sorcntine to Bishop Amat, Monterey, Alarch 12, 1856, in the Deltine de la Guerra Collection, Santa Barbara. Vallejo, Mariano C, Historia dc California, 5 volumes. 78 INDEX. Adam, Father J. quoted, 46. Adobe, used in 1774, 20; in neophytes' quarters ( 1800), 28, 31 ; Serra's cell of, 45; church of, 46. Sec Church. .Memanv, Bishop, J. S., 37; ".Menianv plat" (plate 5), 30, 74. .-\mat. Bishop, 41, 57. .\merican conquest (1846), 34. .\rches, at rear of altar, 58; of stone sup- porting balcony (plate 22), 55 ; of stone supporting roof, 38, 52 ; of wood, 57. Balcony, entrance through tower, 52; stairway to, 57; arch supporting (plate 22), 55." Bancroft, cited, 18, 21, 32; describes ruins (1874), 37. Baptistry, 57; entrance to (plate 26), 59; window of (plates 27, 29), 60, 61 ; font (note 50), 57. Barracks ( 1773), 20, 45. Bartlett, at mission (1852), 34. Beechey describes mission (1827), 31. Bells, 72 ; rung at founding of mission, 17; two added ( 1820), 31 ; si.x in towers (1852), 34, 52; twenty-four around mission (note 48), 52. Benton, Arthur B., cited, 57. Brown, Clarence, photograph bv, 52. 53. Buildings, at Monterey (1770'), 17; at Carmel (1771), 18-19, 45; those of 1773, 20, 45; of 1774. 20-21, 45; de- scribed by Laperouse ( 1786), 22-23 ; by Vancouyer (1794), 24, 27; neophytes' quarters (1800), 28-31; enclose quad- rangle (1815), 31; chapel (1818), 31; described by Ruschenberger (1836), 32; bv Du Petit-Thouars (1837). 33; by Bartlett (1852), 34; by Bancroft (1874) , 37-38. See also Church. Quad- rangle. Burial ground (note 37), 37; shown (plate 10), 39; 72. Buttresses, 52; shown (plate 10), 39. Canteria, material in cliurch. 24. Carmel, site, advantages of, 18, 19; river, Carmelite friars, 17. Casanova, Father, restored church, mentioned, 58. Catenary curve used in arches, 57. Ceiling arched, in stone church, 52 other churches built by Serra Crespi (note 17), 24. Cemetery. Sec Burial ground. Chapel, at presidio (1770), 17; erected at Carmel (1771), 19; of the Passion, ad- joining church (1818), 31; lateral chapel described (1837), 33; of the Crucifixion, 57; entrance to (plate 26), 59; window (plate 2S), 60. See alsu Church. 51 m and 79 Chimneys not used, 23. Church,' provisional, 17, 18, 19, 20, 45; conjectural location (plate 44) 73; not same as adobe churcli, 46; adobe, 45: distinct from provisional, 46; Crespi and Serra Iniried in, 46 ; described bv Laperouse (1786), 22; stone church, 23. 24; church referred to by Serra (note 13), 22; building of ( Vancouver ). 27, 51 ; dimensions by Bancroft (1874), 38; entrance (plate 24), 56; ground plan (plate 13), 47; front elevation (plate 14), 48; rear elevation (plate 15), 48; side elevation (plates 16, 17), 49, 50; cross section (plate 18), 53; ruined interior (Brown, plate 19), S3; Perkins (plate 21 ). 54; side door from adobe^ ruins (plates 30, 31), 62, 57-58, 66; dimensions from photographs, 51- 52; as reconstructed (1884), 40, 51. Court, completely enclosed (1815), 45. See' also Stockade, Quadrangle. Coy, photographs by (plates 36, 37), 67, (plates 38-40) 68; survey by (plate 45), opposite page 75. Crespi, 17, IS, 25, 74; death and burial, 21-22, 46, 74; as church builder (note 17), 24. Croix. See De Croix. Cross, erected at Monterey ( 1770). 17; at Carmel (1771 ), 18; conj'ectural location (plate 44), 73; in center of court (1837), 33. Day, Oriana, painting (plate 8), 36, 66. De Croix, Viceroy, 18. Dome. 52; shown in photograph (plate 9), 39. Doorways, main entrance to churcli (plate 24), 56; side entrance, 57; illus- tration of ( plates 30, 31 ), 62 ; to chapel, 57. detail of (plate 25), 59; to bap- tistry, 57. detail of (plate 26), 59; to sacristy, 58, detail of (plate 34), 64; pulpit. 58. Duflot de Mofras. at mission (1841) Du Petit-Thouars. 33-34, 65. 71. Echeandia, degree of secularization. 32. Enclosure. See Stockade, Quadrangle Engelhardt. cited. 17, 18, 32. Figueroa enforces secularization, 32. Fiske, 38, 66, 74; photographs by 10).. 39, (plate 41), 69. Forests, 18, 19, 20. Founding of San Carlos, 17, 20. Garcia, bandit, 74. Garden, 20; Vancouver dined in, 27; wall down (1824), 32; neglected (1837), 33- deserted (1852), 37. Gate, to mission court ready to fall (1836), 32; mentioned by Du Petit- Thouars (1837), 33. to 34. 1 plate Gentile, Indians, 20. Gothic ceiling in baptistry, 57. Granarv (1771 ), 19,45; well filled (1794), n. Grinding flour, method of, 27. Herder's cabin (plate 41), 69. Hittell, cited, 31. Indians, huts of thatch (1773), 20; vil- lage described by Laperousc (1786), 22-23; by Vancouver (1794), 27; quar- ters of (1800), 28; numbers of, seven hundred and forty (1786), 23; eight hundred (1794), 27; '[\\ti hundred (1834), 34; eight or ten Indians work- ing (1836), 32; two or three families (1837), 33; not over thirty (1841), 34; tenantless (1852). 34; life of. daily routine, 23 ; food, 23 ; grinding meal, 27. Inventory of property (1834), il. Irrigation, possible in Carmel Valley, 18. Jackson, Helen Hunt, quoted, 74. Ja;ues, tieo. Wharton, cited, 17, 18, 24. Johnson, C. W. J., photographer, 38. 65; photographs bv, frontis, (plates 11, 12), 40. _ Judson, W. L., cited, 57. Kitchen (1771 ), 19. Laperouse, 45, 65; visits mission (1786), 22-23; picture, 33. Laplace, at mission ( 1839), 34, 71 ; sketch of mission (plate 4), 29. Lasuen, 74; president of missions, 22; builds stone church, 23-24; cited, 24; quoted, 28. Lavabo in sacristv, 58; detail of (plate 35), 64. Lime made of sea shells, 27. Living quarters, 45 ; at the presidio (1770), 17; in 1771. 18-19; in 1837, ZZ. Lower California Indians, 18. Marines, help build mission, 18. Mestres, Father R. M., 65, 66. Mill, presented to mission (1786), 23. Mofras. Sec Duflot. -Monterey Bay. Spanish occupation of, 17. Mortar, and whitewash on walls, 31; of adobe, 38; made of shells, 27; wooden wall plastered over, 20. Mount Calvary, 31. Muchado (|)late 41 ), 69. .Muybridgc, E. J., photographer. 38, 65; photograph by (plate 7), 36. .Xeophytes. Sec Indians. Orchard. See Garden. Organ, presented hv Vancouver. 11: >till in use (1837), 34. Ovens, 21. Palou. 21, 22, 45. 74; cited. 17. 18. 22, 24, 46. Paintings, in clnirch ( 1786), 22 ; in chapel (1837), ZX 57. Patent issued to church (1859), 37. Payeras quoted, 31. 80 Perkins, photographer. 38; photograph bv (plate 21), 54. Pilasters, 52; detail of (plate 20), 54. Pines, 45. Plaque (plate 32), 58. Portola, 17. Presidio, 18. 24. Provisional church, at Carmel ( 1771 ). 18 ; in 1773, 20; conjectural location (plate 44). li. See also Church. Pulpit, 58. Punta de Pinos, 19. Quadrangle, 58, 65-66, 71-72; enclosed (1815). 31. 58; buildings more than one story (plate 7), 36; described by Ruschenberger (1836), 32; described liy Du Petit-Thouars (1837). 33. Quarters. See Living quarters. Ravelins. 20. Removal of mission to Carmel. 17. 18. 19. Repairs on mission (1824), 31. Restoration of stone church (1884). 41- 42; photographs (plates 11. 12). 40. Richman, cited, 32. Roof, flat on earlv building (1771). 19; flat of clav and mud (1773). 20, 45 : of thatch (1774), 20, 21. 45 ; flat earth roof ( 1774). 21 ; church roof of straw (1786), 22. 46; stone church roof of tile. 24; arched roof, 34; roof partly fell (1852), 37; in ruins (1874), 37-38; roof re- moved, 38; shown in photographs (plates 9, 10), 39; height changed dur- ing restoration (1884), 41-42; original lieight determined, 52. Ruiz, master mason, 24. Ruschenberger, quoted, 32. 71. Sacristy. 38. 58; entrance (plate 34). 64; window in (plate 29), 61; lavabo in (plate 35), 64; roof renewed. 39. Sailors, cut tinilier. 19. Sal. quoted. 24. >San .\ntonio de Padua founded. 18. Sanctuary. 52. San Fernando, Mission, carvings similar to, 58; College of, 17. San Francisco Call, cited, 57. San Francisco Mission. 24. 28. San Luis Obispo Mission. 18. Santa Clara Mission, 24, 27. Secularization, 31-32. Serra, 17. IS. 20, 21, 25 ; as church builder (note 17), 24; death and burial, 21-22; buried in adobe church, 46; remains, 38; hiu of, 18, 45; conjectural location of (pl;iie 44), 73; room or cell of, 45. Servants' (|uarters (1774), 21. Slevi)i, photograiibs by (plates 42, 43), 70. Smith's quarters, 21. Smythe. VVm., {)6, 72; sketch ]i\ (pl.-ilc 3), 29. Soldiers, aid in building, 18, 19. .Soledad secidarized, 34. Scirciitiiif, Fatlicr, 41, 57. Sqiuire. See Stockade, Quadrangle. St. Joseph, patron of mission, 17. Stairway, to tower, 52; to lialcony. 57; to pulpit, 58. Stanford, Mrs. Leland, 41, 58. Stanford University Museum ( plales 32. ^33). 63, 58. Star window, 52; illustration (plate 23). 55, 74. Stock, at mission (1834), 34. Stockade, at the presidio (.1770), 17; (1771), 19, 20, 45; not mentioned (1774), 45; conjectural location (plate ^44), 73. Stone, church referred to Ijy Serra ( note 13), 22; church, 23, 24; church under construction. 27 ; used in church, 27 ; arches shown in Perkins photograph (plate 21), 54. Sec Cliurch, Arches. Surgeon's quarters, 21. Survey of mission grounds, "Alemany Plat" (1854), 37; reproduced ( plate 5), 30; hv J. E. Terrell (1858), 37, (plate 6) 35; by Coy (plate 45), 75. Svkes, 58. 65 ; artist of Vancouver expe- 'dition, 24; sketch (plate 2), 26; 51, 58. Taber, photographer, 38. Temporary buildings, at Monterey (1770), "17; at Carmel (1771), 19. Terrell, surveyor, 58; plat (plate 6), 35. Thatch. See Roof. Tile, roof on stone church, 24, 37 ; carried away, 38; paving in baptistry, 57. Title conlirmed ( 1859), 37. Towers, descrilied, 52, 74 ; contain si.s 1)ells, 34, 72. Turrill, Chas. B., 39. 69. United States, 58, 65, 71, 72: survey |)Iat (plate 6), 35; conlirms title to church (1859). 37. Vallejo, Gen. M. G.. 36. Vancouver, at San Carlos (1794), 24-28, 65; speaks of l)uilding of stone church, 27, 51. Vandalism. 38. Verger, 74. I'ia CnuU (1820), 31. Viceroy, donation to mission, 18; grant? permission for removal, 18. Victoria, succeeds Echeandia, .32. Vischer, Eduard, 38, 72. Vizcaino, 17, 25. Wagon entrance to court, 71. Water, needed for irrigation, 18; plentv at Carmel, 18-19. Watkins, C. E., photographer, 38, 41 ; photograph by (plate 9), 39. Whitew'ash, used in interior (1773), 20. Windows, 52; (plates 27, 28), 60, (plate 29), 61 ; barred with iron ( 1836), 32. Women's quarters (1800), 28-31, Wood carvings in chapel, 31. Wooden buildings (1771), 19. See also Buildings. Workshop, at Monterey (1770), 17; at Carmel (1774), 20, 45. f I 4 000 i 675 435 ;v;v;.;:v!:x:;:;:;: ::;i::x::::;;i::i:;:; :;:;:;:; ::;:av:v;.v^ .".•.'. Aihmii