Universi Southi ■■4M «-s__ ■ J iHJNV-M)l iH ^QF-CAllFOflto, A YEAK IN FIJI, AN INQUIRY INTO THE BOTANICAL, AGRICUL TURAL, AND ECONOMICAL RESOURCES OF THE COLONY. BY JOHN HORNE, F.L.S., &c, DIRECTOR OF WOODS AND FORESTS AND BOTANICAL GARDENS, MAURITIUS. PUBLISHED AT THE REQUEST OF THE HON. SIR A. H. GORDON, G.C.M.G., GOVERNOR OF FIJI, &c. LONDON: PRINTED BY GEORGE E. EYRE AND WILLIAM SPOTTISWOODE, PRINTERS TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY. FOR HER MAJESTY'S STATIONERY OFFICE. AND PUBLISHED BY EDWARD STANFORD, 55, CHARING CROSS, LONDON, AND GEORGE ROBERTSON, MELBOURNE and SYDNEY. 1881. D La DO jfi^S. — — *r r\TSy CHAPTER I. Description of Tour throughout the different Islands of the Group, &c.— pp. 1-57. CHAPTER II. Flora, its peculiarities, &c. Number of Indigenous Species.—- pp. 58-73. CHAPTER III. Fijian Food Plants. Method of Cultivation. European and Native Vegetables, &c.— pp. 74-92. CHAPTER IV. Fruit, kinds of, indigenous to Fiji ; and Exotic ; might be exten- sively grown for Exportation. — pp. 93-102. CHAPTER V. Native Ornamental Plants. Starch, Spices, Materials for Clothing, Mats Fans, Cordage, &c— pp. 102-111. CHAPTER VI. Indigenous Timber trees. Native Houses, Minor Forest Produce, as Thatch Reeds, &c.— pp. 112-126. CHAPTER VII. Conservancy of Forests. Destruction by Fires. Re-Foresting and Preservation of "Water Supply. — pp. 127-137. CHAPTER VIII. Botanic Garden. Industrial School. Museum. Meteorology. — pp. 138-1-18. CHAPTER IX. Number of Islands in the Group. Area of Land. Reefs. Rivers. Navigation. Watersheds. Mountains. Lakes. Taviuni. Rabi. Lonia Loma. Koro. Ovalau. Levuka. — pp. 119-162. CHAPTER X. Hot Springs. Rocks. Minerals. Soil, &c— pp. 163-170. CHAPTER XI. Agricultural Products. Copra. Coir Fibre. Cotton. Sugar. Tobacco. Cacoa or Chocolate. Tea. Vanilla. Coffee. Cinchona Bark. Rice, &c.— pp. 171-184. Q 2019. Wt. P 456. 835332 CHAPTER XII, Labourers. Markets for Produce. Laud Titles. Kinds of Native Produce, &c. — pp. 185-191. CHAPTER XIII. Stock. Piss. Fowls. Fauna of Fiji. — pp. 192-194. APPENDIX I. Report on the Caoutchouc-yielding Plants of Fiji. — pp. 195-202. APPENDIX II. Report on Sandalwood Preservation, and extension by Cultivation, t V C .— pp. 203-212. APPENDIX III. Propositions regarding a Forest Ordinance for Fiji. — pp. 213-235. APPENDIX IV. Letter to the lion, the Colonial Secretary, Fiji, and Rules suggested to regulate the Felling of' Timber Trees in Forest Reserves. —pp. 236-246. APPENDIX V. Meteorological statements. — pp. 247-2.35. APPENDIX VI. List of Flowering Plants and Ferns indigenous to Fiji. — pp. 256-286. Note. In pronouncing and spelling Fijian words the following rules are observed, viz. : — />'. Ii, pronounced Mb, a- Bau, Mbau ', Bua, Mbua. (', c, pronounced th t as Cibicibi, Thimbithimbi ; ca (bad) Tha. />, d, pronounced Nd, a- Druadrua, Ndiiiandrua ; Kadavu Kandavu. . ng in sing or rang as Turaga, Turanga; vuga, vunga. Q> 9i '"J-'J" or nka ; as YYaga (canoe) Wangga or Wanka. PREFACE. In 1877, I accepted an invitation from Sir Arthur Gordon to visit the Islands of Fiji, of which he was then Governor ; and availing myself of the privilege of leave of absence granted to Civil Servants, I left, en route for England, via New South "Wales, Fiji, and San Francisco, after a resident service in Mauritius of 16 years. Sugar being the staple product of that Island, the introduction of new varieties of sugar-cane and their culture had received my special attention for a number of years ; and, on leaving, the Chamber of Agriculture, with the sanction of Government, commissioned me to select and forward whatever new and suitable specimens of canes I could find in the different islands lying on my route. I spent a year in Fiji, and my notes of travel during that period are given in the following pages. JOHN HORNE, Director of the Botanic Gardens, and of "Woods and Forests, Mauritius. November 4th, 1880. Q 2019. CHAPTER I. Description of Tour throughout the different Islands in the Group, &c. My route through the Fiji islands is traced in red on the annexed map, and I now propose giving a description of it and of the country through which I passed. Before starting, His Excellency the Governor of Fiji, the Honourable Sir A. H. Gordon, C.B., G.C.M.G., furnished me with a circular letter of introduction written in Fijian to all the chiefs, in- forming them who I was, the object and nature of my visit, and requesting them to give me all the assistance in their power in providing me with carriers, guides, &c. This they most cheerfully and Avillingly attended to, and I found no difficulty in moving about. In each village some one, generally the schoolmaster, " teacher " or native clergyman, was found who could read and explain the letter to the people, who were at all times attentive listeners. This was a surprise to me ; but I found in the course of my journeys, that many of the grown-up people had been taught by the Wesleyan missionaries ; that a church and a school, — the latter of which in small villages was a place of worship as well on Sundays as on other special occasions, — were established in every native town — (Koro). These were well attended, as most of the rising generation could read, write, and cipher to some extent. In most native houses worship was A 2 4 conducted night and morning, showing that the mis- sionaries had nobly done the work of Him who sent them. The teachers were supported by the voluntary contributions of the people. I had with me an intelli- gent half-caste boy (Rae Spowart), about 15 years old, to act as interpreter. I took with me a mosquito net, rug, mats for sleeping upon, sugar, tea, coffee, bis- cuits and bundles of paper for drying plants, all enveloped in waterproof coverings ; and, thus equipped, I traversed the country with my native guides and carriers. The first journey was to Lavoni, in the centre of the island of Ovalau, over rugged and steep paths. On the way through the forest a good collection of plants was made. The soil was seen to be rich and fertile, and the rocks volcanic breccia or agglomerate. The Lavoni valley, — in which I spent a week, travers- ing it in all directions, making fine collections of its flora — seen from an eminence is not the least beau- tiful of the many pretty places in Viti. Its extent is about 7 square miles. It is well watered, and the soil is rich and suitable for sugar cane and coffee cultivation. My route was down the valley to Bureta by a native track, which took me repeatedly across a considerable stream, and sometimes compelled me to wade in water up to my knees. The soil, consisting of alluvial deposits, was rich and fertile, and densely covered with the wild sugar cane (vico), reeds, &c. At Bureta I went to the native church and heard a sermon from a Fijian, lie preached extempore from a IVw notes, was earnest if not eloquent, and seemed neither to warn 1 ideas nor words in which to express them Oh Sundays such preachers maybe heard in ry tillage from one end of Fiji to the other. At Bureta there is a considerable tract of fine flat land well adapted for sugar cane cultivation. From Bureta I crossed to Moturiki, a small island with an area of 8 square miles of fine land, which is well suited for the growth of cocoa-nuts. Prom Moturiki I visited Viti Levu and entered the Tlewa river by its eastern mouth, and went up to na Koro Vatu, about 65 or 70 miles from the sea. I was everywhere delightfully sur- prised with the fertility of the land, the size of the river, the fine scenery, and the luxuriance of the cultivated sugar canes, which, to a small but increasing extent, are grown by a few settlers on the alluvial flats bordering the river. All the kinds of sugar canes, their healthiness, their capability of resisting drought, and of "ratooning" after cutting, as well as the quantity of sugar and weight of cane per acre which each kind yielded, were subjects of earnest inquiry ; as on the eve of my departure from Mauritius for the South Seas, I was instructed by the Government of that colony, at the request of the planters, to collect and despatch thither all the different varieties I could obtain, together with useful information re- specting the peculiarities of each kind. In Fiji alone I obtained over twenty different kinds, samples of which were sent to Mauritius in 16 wardian cases. On the banks of the Hewa and its affluent streams, including the deltas formed by its several mouths, there are about 400 square miles of land unrivalled in quality, and especially well adapted for growing cane. Most of this land has deep water frontage. A large proportion of it belongs to settlers, some of whom cultivate sugar canes, and others do not because they cannot get their canes crushed, the sugar mills being either insufficient or at too great a distance. T also saw on the Rewa two thriving cotton plantations, each about 200 acres in extent, belonging to the natives. They were in good condition, well laid out, cleanly kept, and the plants had a healthy appear- ance. The centre road through one of them was bordered with banana trees for shade ; and these trees were also grown to mark off the plantation into squares or plots, each of which belonged to a different township. At the junction of the Wai ni Mala and the Wai ni Buka, about 60 miles from the sea, I saw a plantation of tapioca or cassava (jatrqpha manihof) and arrowroot, and a few acres of a young flourish- ing coffee plantation. I noticed during my journey that all the rocks on the banks of the river were of the sedimentary formation. On my way back to Levuka I visited the Wesleyan Training School at Navaloa, which is attended by advanced scholars from all part of Fiji, either for the purpose of being educated as teachers or for the native ministry.* It is also attended by the sons of the chiefs for the purpose of obtaining a higher education than the village schools can supply. The establishment is under the superintendence of a master who is a European. On returning to Levuka I went by sea to Tai Levu, a large district on the east coast of VitiLevu. We were becalmed for some time at the " back (N.W. side) of Ovalau," and, on landing, slept at the house of a settler u ho i^ rearing a fine herd of cattle there. The quality of his land was good and capable of growing sugar canes; bui here again the want of a mill and the want of means to purchase one were hinderances in the way of cultivation. These wants indeed are common * Vide page 140. to all parts of the group, even in places where extensive areas of cane land exist. We left this settlement in the morning, and in the afternoon reached our destina- tion, proceeding up a deep but narrow creek shaded by tiri (mangrove) trees, whose overhanging branches had been cut to allow the tall mast of the boat to pass. At this part, and on the banks of the Wai Delici (pron. Wai Ndelithi) the land is amazingly fertile, and formerly produced good crops of cotton. Near the river there are extensive alluvial flats, but the general character of this part of the country is steeply sloping and gently undulating low hills and valleys. This land had been cultivated by the Pijians, but now, being either not required by them to grow " food " upon, or more likely, owing to their method of cultivation, it has become densely covered with wild sugar canes, reeds, grass, and such hardy kinds of trees and shrubs as can best resist the fires which periodically burn up the dry herbage. An opinion prevails among the settlers, that sugar canes will not grow on the low hills so common in this and other parts of Fiji. "What I saw here, on the Hewa and at many other places in the group shows that opinion to be an erroneous one. Here the canes were growing and in good healthy condition on the sides and tops of the low hills where cotton wsuld not thrive. How- ever, in these places their growth is less rapid and the canes a little smaller than on the fat alluvium on the banks of the rivers. Still they do grow well and prove remunerative. Of course such land will not be much in demand for cane cultivation until all the rich bottom lands are fully occupied. In this locality I visited another cotton plantation owned by natives. Like those already mentioned it was 8 in good order. When on the Rewamy attention was called to the unhealthy condition of some cocoa-nut trees, and here I noticed the injury was caused by an insect eating the under side of the leaves, which then become covered with brown spots and wither and decay (if the ravage shave been extensive) frequently before being fully expanded. From the leaves being thus injured or destroyed, the trees are unable to bear fruit, and some! imes are entirely killed. In addition to about 30 square miles of good cane land, there is also in this locality a large area well adapted for the growth of the cacoa (chocolate) and Liberian coffee trees, both of which delight in a moist warm climate and thrive at a low elevation above the sea. I next went to Rabi (Rainbi), an island which lies off the north-east point of Vanua Levu and between it and the northern end of Taviuna. It contains an area of about 28 square miles. The soil is rich and fertile. The island is well wooded and well watered, and the prevail- ing rock is agglomerate ; but both aqueous and basaltic rocks were frequently seen. It is also mountainous, and some of the valleys are of great picturesque beauty. Cocoa-nuts are extensively grown for copra, which is here dried by artificial means, viz., by heated air. Coir fibre is extracted from the husk of the cocoa-nuts by steam machinery. The cocoa-nut plantations have been carried up to a considerable elevation on the hill Bides, on which they are healthy and thriving. An idea is entertained by many of the settlers that the ( ocoa-nul tree will not thrive on the sides and tops of the hills near the sea and within the full influence of its breezes. This notion is wrong, and disproved by what any visitor cannot help seeing, — thousands of cocoa- nut trees growing not only on the sides of the steep 9 hills, but even on the tops of the ridges. In these places the growth of the tree is slower and the produce a little less than on the rich low-lying land on the shore. There are about 6 square miles of good cane land on Rabi, and a large portion of the island is suit- able for both Liberian and common coffee, leaving a wide margin round its shores for cocoa-nuts, and a large space on the tops of the mountains for timber to attract moisture. Prom the position of this island the majority of the plants growing upon it are also common to the adjacent portions of the two large islands near it. As every facility for collecting and drying plants was put at my disposal by the kind proprietor, I thoroughly explored the island, a large portion of which is still covered with primeval forest. Here I made collections of over 300 species of flowering plants and ferns. These I left at Rabi during a six weeks' tour in the northern parts of Yanua Levu. This enabled me to go quickly over a portion of that large island, as I had gathered on Rabi a great number of the plants which grow on the parts of Vanua Levu lying nearest to it. I also thus saved the transport on men's shoulders of bulky packages for upwards of 200 miles, as well as avoided delays in collecting, en ?*oute, the daily shifting of numerous specimens and the drying of the paper from which these specimens had been removed. Besides, by acting as above, I did not bring from a t distance specimens of plants which I could obtain at what, for a time, was my head quarters. Prom Rabi I crossed to Koro-i-vono, a native town on the eastern side of Vanua Levu. At this place there is a considerable area of good cane land, and plenty of space on the beach for extending cocoa-nut 10 plantations. Here a deep stream enters the sea, up which boats drawing 6 feet of water may proceed at h tide. From this I decided to travel to Savu-savu by Natawa bay. The path, a well-kept one for a short distance, led up the coast for about 4 miles through proves of cocoa-nut. bread fruit, and other t r< 'os ; it then, as a mere track, broke off to the left through the forests, ascended the mountains along the beds of streams, over rocks, down the sides of preci- pices to the district of Togaloa, on the south-east shore of Xatawa bay. In passing through the forests which densely cover the mountains lying between Koro-i-vono and Xatawa bay, many fine specimens of the dakua, the Fijian kauri pine, dakua — salu — salu, and other kinds of good timber trees were seen for the first time, and several kinds of ferns were added to my collection. The dakua formerly abounded at Koro- i-vono. — Seemann mentioning that some large ones existed there in 1860-61 ; — but European sawyers have played sad havoc among them, and large trees were only found in the more inaccessible parts of the mountains. At Togaloa I learnt that all the Bulis or district el lief s in the province of Cakaudrove had gone to Somo-somo, in the island of Taviuni, to attend the provincial council, which the Hoko Tui, or supreme chief of the province holds twice in the year. The Fijians have (and Ik 'fore the islands were ceded to Great Britain had) an elaborate system of polity by which all tribal ami provincial matters are discussed and regulated. As I could not get carriers from one district to another without coming, in some degree, in contacl with this system, an outline of it may be interesting. 11 The starting point in this system is the village or " Koro." Over every village there is a local chief called the Turaga ni Koro. Over one or many vil- lages, or perhaps over a district, there is a Buli ; and over these is the chief j of the province, or Roko Tui. The Governor, as Her Majesty's representative, is the supreme chief of all. These native functionaries, although the office which they hold is hereditary, i.e., belongs to certain families, are elected to office by the district council, of which more anon. The village chief is assisted by a council of elders, which meets once a week, and executive officers, magistrate (Turaga ni lawa), policemen, town-crier, inspectors of gardens, &c, are appointed to carry out its decisions. These act on behalf of the community as guardians of the peace, see that villages are kept clean, that fences are not broken clown, that animals are not destroying the gardens, and as messengers, guides, &c. The affairs of the district are regulated by the district council (Bose ni Tikini), which consists of the Buli and all the village chiefs of the district. This council, which meets once a month, nominates all the village chief s— whoniit may suspend if not dismiss from office ; discusses and regulates all local matters, such as the opening of new roads and the repairing of those already made, making and repairing bridges, — allotting at the same time the portion of the work which each village has to do ; keeping bathing places in decent order, cleaning villages and superintending the pay- ments of the village officers out of the local rates. The Bulis of a province must meet twice a year in council (Bose vaka Tasana), and discuss the affairs of the province with the Roko Tui. These (there are 12 of them) with two Bulis chosen from each province, and 12 the native stipendiary magistrates meet once a year in the great council (Bose vaka Turaga), and discuss the " Dative affairs of the nation." At this meeting each Eok<> grives a detailed report of the province of which he has charge. These reports are severely criticised by the other chiefs, and suggestions are offered as to such executive and legislative measures as the assembly would like to see adopted hy the Govern- ment. The resolutions of the great council are mere recommendations which the Government of the colony is free to accept or reject. On arriving at a village I was conducted to the Bure ni Sa, or strangers' house, one of which is to he found in every village, or to the house of the chief. The Governor's letter was read, and the Turaga ni Koro in council appointed the guide and the men who were to he the carriers to the next town or district, and without such not a man would lift a pack- age. The state of the native roads, the order and cleanliness of a town were soon seen to he sure indications as to the character of a Turaga ni Koro. Whatever might he the decisions of the village council, it was his particular duty to have them carried out. koro ni Saca was the next halting place, where I slaved two days, making excursions into the forests, collecting plants and examining the country. At this town a large stream enters the sea, and boats drawing 8 feet of water can go up for 3 or 1 miles into the interior. In the locality there are aboul <') square miles of land suitable for growing Bugar cane, lying on the hanks of the river and on the sides of low hills. The mountains are well wooded with valuable kinds of timber trees. The soil 13 is suitable for growing coffee. The road from Togaloa, a well-made and well-kept path, runs along the beach, shaded by fine ivi 3 dilo, and viitu trees, through several villages which nestle among groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. Numerous clear streams are crossed, and native plantations of cotton, yams, and masi, or native bark-cloth trees, are seen. Some of these plantations are in good order, but the condition of others leaves much to be desired. On the beach and on the low hills cocoa-nut trees could be largely planted. At present, in these places there is little but useless scrub, tall grass, reeds, &c. In the vicinity of Natawa village, there are several settlers, and about 3 square miles of what appeared to be good cane land. Between Koro ni Saca and Viene the hills end abruptly on the shore, forming in many places cliffs of agglomerate and basaltic rocks, which extend quite into the sea. The path between the towns was stony and hilly, but the land was fit for growing cocoa-nuts, occasional groves of which in hollows were passed. I intended to spend the night at Viene, but on arriving I found the people were about to send a canoe to Vuni Sawani, a village at the head of Natawa bay, and about 7 miles further on the journey to Savu-savu. On learning that the path leading to that town was a bad one, I gladly accepted the offer of a passage in the canoe. Viene is situated on the side of a point of land which projects into the bay. A small but high lying island lies at a short distance from the mainland, f i'om which it is separated by a channel that is sometimes dry at low water. The land in the vicinity of the village is well adapted for growing sugar canes, of which I saw a native plantation of about 10 acres to supply thatch, 14 and canes for eating. The Fijians are very fond of the sugar cane, and never seem tired of eating it — sucking its sweet juice and throwing the pith away. When going from place to place, they frequently carry large quantities of it to use on the way, in order to beguile the tedium of the journey, and to give as a present to friends and acquaintances. For such purposes it is largely used on festive occasions, and the quantity of cane which a Fijian will con- sume in an idle hour, or while listening to a story, astonished me. The canoe was soon got under weigh ; the large tri- angular shaped sail was hoisted, and the breeze being favourable and not much sea, the 7 miles were run over in about 40 minutes. On the way I noticed several settlers' houses, native villages, small groves of cocoa-nut trees, and land cleared for young plantations at various places along the shore. At this part of the island the land is narrow. It is in reality an isthmus, only about 3 miles broad from Natawa bay to the main ocean on the south-western side of Vanua Levu. The character of the country is hilly. The low hills are densely covered with long grass and occasional patches of forest, but the soil is good, and cocoa-nuts could be more extensively planted there than they are. Some of the sheltered valleys are also suitable for coffee, the Libcrian species would -i likely answer best, and in a few places good »ar cane could be grown. Vuui Bawani is a low lying place not more than _ eel above high water. The village is built upon land, which had recently been a tiri, or mangrove swamp; a place where one might fairly expect to find malarial lever prevalent, did such exist at all in Fiji. 15 Numerous villages on the coasts in all parts of Eijiare built in similar situations. It is not too cleanly kept, and the pigs roam at will through it, — the inhabitants putting up low fences in front of their doors to keep these animals out of their dwelling-houses. With the exception of the village constable and the garden in- spector, or guardian, all the men belonging to the village were at Wai Levu, helping the Buli to make taro patches, and were not to return for a few days. However, the women, to show that their town should not be wanting in the accustomed hospitality to strangers, volunteered, in the absence of the men, to carry my packages to the next town, a distance of 2 or 3 miles towards the interior, where I could get men to carry them on to Savu-savu. At Vuni Sawani there are about 7 square miles of superior cane land consisting of alluvial flats and low hills, and sufficient space for enlarging the cocoa-nut plantations, which in this locality are not so extensive as they might be. The inhabitants of this village have extensive taro patches, which they cultivate with great skill and care. The soil of the locality, — a brown heavy loam, appears to favour the growth of that plant, and the beds, "patches," of it which I saw were in fine condition, equal if not superior to any that I saw in any other islands of the Pacific ocean. A canal averaging 2^ feet in breadth, and 3^ feet in depth, and more than 2 miles long, conveys the water to these patches from a neighbouring stream. I started with a guide early in the morning, and after walking leisurely for about 3 hours, was overtaken by the women and boys with the packages just as I was about to enter the next town. I paid them and gave each a present of tobacco (for all the Fijian women smoke), for which they were thankful. 16 It being mid- day when I arrived at the village, and finding all the men were at work making a new road, I left my packages to be sent after me the next morning, and then, with a guide, pushed on to Savu-savu, where I arrived at 4 p.m. The distance from Savu-savu bay to Vuni Sawani is said to be only 7 miles ; but by the zigzag way I was taken by the guide from village to village, it was not less than 16 miles. This is vaka vitl, i.e., Fiji custom or fashion. Some fine views of the country were obtained, and several fertile valleys were passed where coffee, cacoa, &c, could be grown. About 1 square miles of fine cane land, consisting of flats and low hills, were observed, — notably in the vicinity of Savu-savu bay, though separated from it by a ridge of low hills. The general character of the country is hilly, steep, and undulating ; but the quality of the soil is fair and good, and water abounds in all the valleys, Most of the land had been cultivated, and afterwards aban- doned, in accordance with the custom of the people, and allowed to become overgrown with rank grass and scrub. The latter appeared to be prevented from growing and spreading by the fires which annually burn the grass. The rocks were sedimentary, agglo- merate, and some columnar basalt was noticed. From experience now gained in travelling in Fiji, in order to avoid delay and annoyance, I henceforth endea- voured to engage the carriers to the village which was to be the end of my journey for the day, as on arriving at a village, situated about half way, the men were absent ; engaged in their plantations or elsewhere, which naturally enough they did not like to leave, ana the men who came with me just as reasonably objected to carry farther than they had agreed to, even when the oiler of double pay was made to them. 17 They would, however , have cheerfully gone beyond the half-way village had they before starting under- stood, they were required to do so. At Savu-savu there are extensive boiling springs, which phenomenon, at another place, will be more parti- cularly alluded to. The scenery at this place is beauti- ful and grand, — lofty hills, cloud-capped mountains densely covered with trees, deep dark looking valleys, contracting almost into gorges, — low grass-covered hills which in some places advance and present precipitous terminations to the sea whilst in others they retreat from it, leaving flat beaches between their base and the shore, — groves of cocoa nut, bread fruit, ivi, clllo, vesi, and other trees, all surround a bay which is 12 miles broad at the bottom, 5 at the head, and from 6 to 7 miles deep. In the bay there is a small island 150 feet in height, on the top of which stands a house. This bay is one of the iinest and largest natural harbours in Fiji ; it has deep water close to the shore, is easy of access, whilst the reefs prevent the swell of the ocean from entering it. Several large streams run into Savu- savu bay, which are navigable for large boats of light draught for some distance. It is a favourable place for a township ; and, although it has been decided to build the capital of Eijiat Suva in Viti Leva, a large town, from a variety of circumstances, will in all probability be built upon the shores of Savu-savu bay. The two highest parts of the small island in the bay are united at the base by a mangrove swamp, in the centre of which there is a deep pool, probably the crater of an extinct volcano, into which there is a channel for boats. The pool, I have been told on good authority, would make an excellent dry dock, as it only requires the mud to be Q2019. B 18 dredged out to enable it to receive large vessels. Several of the settlers in this vicinity have herds of fine cattle. Cocoa-nut plantations could be largely ex- tended on the low hills that in some places border the hay. A kind friend sent nie across the bay in his boat, which landed me at Wai-waij near TTai Levu, on its northern shore. Here an enterprising young settler has bought land, on which he has built a small sugar mill, and is growing cane and coffee, the former on the rich alluvium at the base of the hills, and the latter in the sheltered and fertile valleys. Cocoa-nut trees abound on the shore, but there is room for more ex- tensive plantations of this valuable tree. The low lying undulating country extending from this place to the Bua mountains, a distance of 50 miles, is well watered, and suited both by climate and soil for growing sugar cane, cacoa, Liberian coffee, &c, with a broad fringe of cocoa-nut trees along the coast. Tracts of this fine land belong to settlers, many of whom are too poor to do anything with it, even if they were willing and^had the necessary knowledge and skill. The greater part of it, however, belongs to natives, who annually clear portions of it on which to grow their food plants, allow- ing the portions already used to relapse into jungle. I stayed a week in this locality, arranging the specimens collected on the way from Rabi, and making excursions into the mountain forests. I may remark that the farther I proceeded from that island the more numerous did plants, which I had not observed upon it, become. I also found that the speci- mens already collected were drying badly, — becom- ing mouldy and the leaves dropping off on account of the heal and moisture, notwithstanding the changing 19 of the drying paper twicc^daily. Specimens will not dry properly when made into Imndles and enveloped in waterproof coverings ; yet without these coverings the paper carried exposed through this damp country would become a mass of pulp in a few hours. The carriers were careless ; indeed no ordinary care could prevent the packages from coming constantly in contact with the tall grasses and branches of shrubs dripping with wet, that border the narrow tracks lead- ing from one village to another. Three changes of drying paper were in use, but from my constant move- ments it could not be thoroughly dried, although well aired, spread out and hung up in the interior of native houses every night. Henceforth, with the exception of specimens of tender ferns, all other specimens were well withered in the sun and air before they were put into drying paper. To do this, they were carried in open baskets by day and hung near the fires and round the sides of the bure ni sa at night. From the specimens being scattered at night and exposed to the wind by day I lost about 150 numbers (representing as many species of which I had memo- randa) out of a total of 1,150 kinds gathered. My next journey was to Naduri, in the province of Macuata, on the north-west coast of Vanua Levu. Walking slowly, collecting all the way and stopping a night at Loma loma, a village in the centre of the island, Naduri was reached on the evening of the second day. On the chart the direct distance from "Wai-wai to Naduri is 18 or 20 miles, but, by the indirect route of the native paths, it is fully 35 miles, On the first day my course lay through the mountains. The path, rough and apparently not much used, ran along streams, up steep ascents and down awkward B 2 20 descents, over slippery boulders and fallen trees, up tin" sides and along the crests of mountains. These mountains are densely wooded, whilst the soil in the valleys is fertile and well adapted for growing coffee. The head waters of the Drekiti river— here a large, swift, running stream — were crossed on the first day, and I gathered some interesting and new species of flowering plants and ferns in the mountain forests, which are here well stocked with fine timber trees. Among these were noticed the dak act, dakua-salu- sahij kausia, kan-tabu, lewininini, damanu, &c. Along the paths I remarked that the Fijians have at intervals recognised halting places, from which all the scrub has been cleared, and where they light fires, cook their food, rest, and smoke. These spots are always on the tops of ridges, commanding good views of the country. The air on the top of the mountains felt fresh and cool ; but the climate is exceedingly wet, and a fair day quite the exception. In such a climate ferns, &c, abound, and the branches of the trees and the petioles of the leaves are covered with mosses. On the second day, the route was through a country of an almost oppo- site character. The climate here was moderately dry. The hills, consisting of calcareous and other sedimen- tary rocks, were low and undulating, and covered with grass, patches of forest, rough ferns, and the turmeric and yabia (Fijian arrowroot) plants. The character of the plants changed, there being but few of those I had seen in the wet districts. Fires which break out annually among the grass do a great amounl oi injury to this province. In the bottoms and on the sides of some of the valleys there is a large amounl of good fertile land capable of growing sugar cane, and in other places large areas of pasture land. 21 Cocoa-nut trees, loaded with fruit, are common, but not numerous in the vicinity of the village. The inhabi- tants of this part seem to be poor ; their villages are by no means clean, and, altogether, compare unfavour- ably with those residing on the coast. On the road to Naduri four large streams were crossed, all flowing westward to the Drekiti river. There are several settlements on this river where, I believe, there are nearly 30 square miles of good cane land, most of which contists of alluvium and low hills with water frontage on a navigable stream. The village of Naduri is built on a low lying, flat piece of rich land about 3 square miles in extent, which is capable of yielding any kind of crop. The climate being dry during the cool season, cultivation is aided by irrigation. The water is supplied by one or more streams that have been turned into channels dug for the purpose. Cocoa-nut trees abound in the village and in the vicinity, but there is available space for further planting. The village is well built, cleanly kept, and the ground is carpeted with short grass like a lawn, — the latter feature being character- istic of the tidiest and best kept native villages. The European stipendiary magistrate for Vanua Levu resides and has a court house in Naduri. All the magistrates in Fiji, Levuka excepted, go from one district to another administering justice, holding their courts, for want of proper buildings, in the village schools and occasionally under a tree. But this in- convenience is in the way of being remedied. In the villages where courts are usually held the people are erecting buildings for the accommodation of the court, and also for the magistrate where it is necessary for him to remain a few days. Beche de mer is found 22 ou the reefs off this coast, and the natives are largely employed in getting- and curing it for the market. Si dalwood used to grow in the forests of the pro- vince, but owing to reckless felling, it has almost disappeared from them. The interpreter being unable to walk far on account of a sore foot, the Roko of Macuata sent us up the coast in a takia, or dug out canoe, to Labasine, opposite Mali i^hind. Thickets of mangroves fringed the shore and were occasionally backed by small grooves of cocoa- nuts, for extending which there seemed to be ample space. The hills descend in places to the water's edge, and here and there form precipitous cliffs of . i g ulonierate. The surface is covered with rank grass and dotted with the balawa (Pandanus, or screw pine) trees and spots of forest. Near Mali three or four navigable streams enter the sea, and the mangrove swamps are extensive. There are a few settlers near these streams, on the banks of which I should think a large area of cane land existed. A change of men at Labasine to manage the canoe was not one for the better. The canoe had not been long out when the men, from the noise of the surf breaking on the barrier reefs and other appearances, predicted a storm and advised landing at the village of Wavu wavu. A severe storm of lightning, thunder, wind .Did rain came on as predicted and lasted the U hole Qight. The next morning 1 travelled to the village of Vuni vutiu from whence thcTuragani Korotookmeto Tutu in his Large Bea canoe. Tutu is nearly opposite the island of Draudrau. The coast from Labasine is a series of bold, projecting bluffs of agglomerate, interspersed with ma of coralline sandstone, enclosing a succession of bays varying in depth from 2 to 3 miles; and in 23 breadth from 3 to 4. At their heads these bays terminate in mangrove swamps, behind which are small groves of cocoa-nuts. One or more streams enter the sea at the head of each bay, and they are navigable for small vessels for several miles inland. These streams having neither bridge nor ferry, travelling along this part of the coast can only be done by good swimmers, — even they would have to encounter the danger arising from the numerous sharks which infest all these waters. The ridges that extend seaward are thickly covered with noko noko (casuarina) and balawa trees, brushwood and grass. Low rolling hills lie beyond the flats, and like those just referred to are covered with grass and brush- wood. In making their roads the natives have, in several places, dug deep into these hills, and have exposed the sub-soil, which is found at times to consist of white and red clay. The estimated area of good cane land on the Macuata coast, extending from Macuata island to Uclu Point, is about 40 square miles. Most of it lies in small areas, of 100 acres and up- wards, each. In working such land small and com- paratively inexpensive "plant," capable of making 2 or 3 tons of sugar per week, will be particularly useful in developing this and similar localities in Fiji. On the other hand, many districts will give employment (during the proper seasons of the year for cutting and crushing the sugar cane) to nume- rous mills, each able to make 20 tons of sugar per day. At Tutu a few strange plants were found among the volcanic and sedimentary rocks which surround that place. I left Tutu late in the afternoon in a large canoe and went up the Kuru-kuru river for about 8 miles ; then landed and walked 7 miles to the village of Kali 24 kosa. As it was dark when we landed the natives made torches of dry bamboos, which burnt well, to guide us down the steep banks and over the fords of two large streams. On the banks of the Kuru-kuru river there is a large area of good cane land. In a small lake near Kali-kosa there is a floating island, in connexion with which the Pijians have some long mythological stories to tell. Next day the route was in a south-westerly direc- tion to Nadoga, which was reached about 4 p.m. It was a wet walk all along the banks of the Wai ni Koro, a deep and rapid stream, which was crossed and re-crossed 15 times. The natives are extremely kind, and at the fords insist upon carrying the papalagai, i.e. , the foreigner, across. One soon gets tired of this, besides there is the risk of the bearer slipping, and bringing both down to be carried away by the current. One gets equally tired of changing clothes when fords are frequent, and the result is you plunge into the water with your ordinary costume upon you, even though you may find it up to your shoulders. A considerable extent of fine flat land was noticed on the banks of the stream, and in general the country consisted of low-lying hills covered with grass and brushwood and pasture land. The rocks noticed were principally sedi- mentary and volcanic, and some had the appearance of decomposed granite. The sanitary condition of Na- doga Leaves much to be desired. The mosquitoes were more numerous and troublesome than in any other pari of the group. I left on the following morning, when the path led through the mountains, up the bed of one stream and down the bed of another to Malaka, or Malata, a village on the north- west shore of Natawa bay. During this day's journey the land 25 was found to be good throughout, and in the moun- tains the greater part of it was well wooded and suitable for coffee growing. On approaching Natawa bay the path led through some fine cane land about 2 square miles in extent. In the mountains which extend from one extremity to the other of Vanua Levu, a distance of 120 miles, there is an area of about 700 square miles of prime land well adapted by climate and soil for growing the coffee tree. The following day my journey lay for 15 miles along the shore of Natawa bay to Vatu Kura. It passed through numerous cleanly -kept villages, which were well shaded with groves of cocoa-nut, bread-fruit and other trees. The path — a well-made one — lay along the beach, occasionally on flat ground, but not unfrequently cut into the sides of the hills, where it was supported on the outside by rough walls of stone. Many streams — flowing from the mountains — were crossed, some of them by bridges of single, slippery, crooked, logs, trunks of trees worn smooth, and others of more architectural pretensions, all more or less dangerous to walk upon. Near Vatu Kura we were ferried over a large stream, one at a time, in all that remained of a canoe that had been recently broken. It was simply the half of a canoe, the water being prevented from entering at the broken end by a wall of clay. The character of the country on this side of the bay is similar to that on the south-east side already described. Many young plantations of cocoa-nut trees were noticed, and there is ample vacant space for more. Most of the low hills are covered with grass and " bush," and the soil is very fertile. Basaltic, agglomerate, limestone, and other rocks of aqueous character are very conspicuous. 26 At Vatn Kura tlic signal agreed upon, — smoke if in the daytime and fire at night, — was made to my friends at Rabi, who at once sent a boat for me, and I arrived at that island after a somewhat stormy passage of eight hours. In a few days, the steamer, which trades in the group and carries the mails between the several islands, called at llabi, and I returned to Levuka, via Laucala, Loma loma, Mango, Kanacea, Vuna Point in Taviuni, and Koro. The first place the steamer stopped at was Wai ni Buli. Tasman's straits, on the northern part of Tavi- uni, where we remained all night. As steaming among the islands at night is dangerous, and at places even by day without a pilot at the mast-head to point out the sunken rocks, the vessel has to anchor in a safe harbour, or lie to at a fair distance from the shore, every night. We steamed across the straits at daylight, and soon anchored at Luacala (pr. Lauthala). This part of Fiji is exquisitely beautiful. The water is deep, smooth, and blue ; and sunken rocks and de- tached pieces of coral are readily distinguished by their colour. Numerous islands rise suddenly from the sea, and huge masses of rock arc seen towering up to a heighl of 800 feet, clothed with dense forest, and sur- mounted by the tall trunks and waving leaves of the cocoa-nut palm and tree fern. Quamc (pr. Kaima), is i small, well timbered, high lying, picturesque island, on which many cocoa-nut trees may be seen nestling ;it the head of little coves, and growing far up on the rockj heights wherever the soil is rich enough for them to grow. Laucala is a fine, fertile island, nearly the whole of which is capable of being made into a grove of cocoa-nul trees. That tree is well represented here; in died, those tint 1 .saw were among the healthiest in 27 Eiji, but they were growing too closely together. The steamer went close to Nataimba, a good view of which we had in passing. It contains about 9 square miles of good land, and nearly the whole of it is planted with cocoa-nut trees. After entering inside the reef at the northern end of Loma Loma or Vanua Balawu (Exploring islands), the steamer passes within 20 yards of the shore, along which the scenery is most charming. The island is well wooded at this part, and rises abruptly from the sea to an eleva- tion of several hundred feet. The shore is well pro- tected from the force of the waves by the barrier reef. But the action of the water upon the coral limestone rock has worn it away, so that at one uniform level all along the shore the upper part projects at a little above high-water mark. There are many islets pro- tecting half hidden coves or small bays, in some of which there is deep water. The steamer remained nearly 24 hours at the village of Loma Loma. There are numerous settlers at this place, and it is a port for both inward and outward bound foreign vessels. Some healthy young mahogany and toon " cedar " trees, and good crotons from the New Hebrides and New Ireland were seen in the gardens. Maafu, the Hoko of the Lau province, has granted the use of a few acres of land, which the inhabitants of the village have laid out as a public botanic garden. Of course, I paid a visit to it, and was much pleased with what I saw. It is highly creditable to the settlers and natives, and says much for the energy and zeal of both, for I believe the latter take a lively interest in " their garden." There are many Tonga men in this province, and its Roko is the nephew of King George of Tonga. The 28 Tonguese arc a fairer race of men than the Fijians, and both men and women are of larger build. They readily combine to carry out any enterprise. This was shown in the wars between the two races. Indi- vidually they are acknowledged to be less industrious and not such good handicraftsmen as the Fijians ; they are also more haughty in their bearing towards strangers. The houses here have circular ends, a feature I did not observe in any other part of the group. Copra is the great article of produce of this pro- vince, and there is vacant space for the cocoa-nut tree being extended a hundred fold. The island is long and narrow, thinly wooded near the village, and its rocks are agglomerate, basaltic, and aqueous. The village is built in a grove of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees. It is cleanly kept, well laid out, and divided by broad paths, which serve for streets, and which are covered with short lawn-like grass. The next port of call was the island of Mango, ren- dered famous from the cotton grown there having gained the highest awards at the International Exhi- bitions held at Philadelphia and Paris. It is a fertile well-cultivated island, about 9 square miles in extent. The attention of its owners has been attracted to rais- ing coffee instead of cotton, which latter does not now pay so well as formerly. From Mango the steamer went to Kanacea, where it shipped a quantity of cotton. This had to be con- veyed nearly 2 miles in small boats through a narrow passage in the reef, which is here 2 miles broad and the same distance from the shore. The island belongs t'. si-t tiers, and contains extensive groves of both old and young eoeoa-nul trees. The other places touched at were Vxma Point and Koro. 29 My next trip was to Suva, in the island of Viti Levu. This is the site of the future capital of Fiji. In many respects a better could not be chosen. The scenery of the locality is among the finest in Fiji. The harbour is large and commodious, easily entered, and well protected by the reefs, whilst the water is moderately deep. From this harbour, and inside the reefs, there is water communication on one side to the mouth of the Rewa river, and by that stream into the interior of Viti Levu ; and on the other side for 30 miles along the coast and up the Navua river. Three streams enter the harbour on its northern side, navi- gable for small boats for several miles. A road, a portion of which is already blocked out, is to be con- structed to the upper Rewa and the Wai Manu dis- tricts, where some of the most fertile land in Fiji is to be found. The site is on a projecting point, which on the land side rises to an elevation of 300 or 400 feet. On the other three sides it is surrounded by the sea and open to the breezes, — the S.E. trades, which keep the locality fresh and cool. The elevated land, as well as a large space on the northern shore of the harbour, which can be reached by small boats in any weather, is suitable for the erection of villas. As indi- cated on the plan of the town, I believe the streets are intended to be half a chain (33 feet) wide. This for a town in the tropics, where a good supply of cool pure air is absolutely essential, seems to me to be too little, at least for the main streets. These should not be less than 50 feet wide. They may even be wider to allow for side walks, each from 10 to 12 feet broad, and for the planting of a row of evergreen trees on each side for shade. . The ground is naturallv well drained. The 30 underlying rock, which is but a short distance below the surface, resembles marl. From Suva I made several excursions into the sur- rounding country. Most of the land in the vicinity belongs to settlers. In some parts cotton had been grown, in others sugar cane, hut both these have been abandoned for grazing herds of cattle. At Suva I discovered the insect, a small moth, which in its caterpillar stage of development eats the leaves of the cocoa-nut trees. One of my journeys was to the upper Rewa, via the native village of Kaluba, returning by the sources of the Tamavua river. S veral others were made, both by land and sea to ua Vesi saw-mills, where I obtained much in- formation r< -peeling Fijian timber from the intelligent proprietor. On the way to Rewa the country is densely covered with reeds and scrub, which are periodically devastated by fires. The land appeared to have been cultivated by the natives. In many places it is very fertile. A young but promising coffee plantation was shown me, in which the plants Looked healthy and thriving. On the banks of the Wai Mann, an affluent of the Eewa, there is an extensive area of excellent cane land. The greater part of it belongs to settlers, some of whom have fields of fine healthy looking sugar cane, and others have herds of well-fed cattle. The land which lies between the two livers i.s also very good. This had been previously cultivated by the Fijians; but it is now covered with a thickyoung forest. Forests of this kind, which Bpring up where land has been once culti- vated, are uumeroua in Fiji. These, together with the many abandoned dalo or taro patches, lead to the 31 belief that the country was once much more populous than it is now. But the clearing and cultivation of land, followed by abandonment, may be rather due to the habits of the people than suggestive of a diminished population, though it is true that epi- demics of measles have carried off a very considerable number. On returning to Suva the Wai Manu was crossed 4- miles higher up, and the route followed was that which had been surveyed for the road above mentioned. "We passed the sources of the Tamavua river, and the village of Colo ni Suva. Near this village can be obtained a fine view of the lower reaches of the Heiwa, extending to Ovalau, and also some fine mountain and river scenery. The soil along this route is fertile, and in many places suitable for growing sugar canes, whilst in others coffee would be found to be more suitable. The rocks are principally of a calcareous nature. When leaving Suva I was joined by Mr. Langton, who travelled with me through the interior of Viti Levu examining sites for the natives for then coffee plantations. We proceeded first in a boat for about 30 miles along the coast, and then went up the Navua river. At the mouth of this river, where we remained a few days examining the country and visiting some of tbe settlers, there are about 60 square miles of prime cane land, consisting principally of low hills and alluvial flats. Cotton was once grown here, but since that ceased to pay, the settlers have turned their attention to raising stock. As in other places the want of sugar mills prevents the cultivation of the sugar cane from being entered upon. At the village of na Quave we met the Koko of the province (Eoko Tui Namosi), who had assembled 32 a aumberof natives, — men, women, and boys, to clean a cotton plantation belonging to the tribe. The plants looked healthy, but thinning had been neglected when they were young. The yield of cotton would also have been greater if the plants had been cut down after bearing the first crop. We left na Quave for Nukusari, a village about half-way to Namosi. For 14 miles the load Led through magnificent forests, in which there is a large amount of excellent timber, such as dakua, dakua- salusalu, kau-tabua, damanu, &c, I made consider- able additions of rare species to my collection of plants. Although our course now lay for some distance alongan elevated ridge, it was so shaded by trees that, with tin- exception of a magnificent view of KoroLoa, a good view of the country could not be obtained. K< >ro Loa is a lofty, conical shaped, rugged mountain, which rises to an elevation of about 2,000 feet above the sea. The land surrounding it appeared to be low lying hills and valleys, but so densely covered with forest that the surface could nowhere be distinctly seen. The soil was everywhere rich and fertile, and the rocks seen were principally basalt and agglomerate, and occasionally some of a sedimentary character. Before arriving at the bed of the Xavua river, the path sud- denly descended the 1 ted of a stream with narrow, lofty, perpendicular banks so overgrown with bamboos and wild canes that no view in front could be obtained. When these were pushed aside, we turned sharply round a rock, and to our surprise found we were stand- ing "u the edge of a river (a branch of the Navua), L0 yards broad and '2\ feet deep. We forded this ii three times in the short distance of 500 yards. Then climbing its righl bank where it joins the Navua river, we crossed a projecting point of land about 6 33 yards broad, and descending into the Navua, which we forded on a spit of sand and gravel a yard in breadth at the top, and with 3^ feet of water upon it. This spit is thrown across the Navua by the current of water which its tributary brings down and which at this point enters the main stream at right angles. It was remarked at this place, that the channels of both rivers had been worn down through a coarse grained sedimentary rock which rose in steep crags to a height of 300 feet above the water. Here the Navua is from 25 to 30 yards in width, and at the head of the rapids, where w^e forded it, the water was sometimes 3 feet deep and very clear. The route now followed the bed of the river, crossing it three times within the next three miles. This was necessary in order to avoid climbing steep banks at places where the river by, taking a sudden bend strikes into their sides, leaving no space for a path between them and the water. Nukusari is a small village on the left bank of the river. By the people of the Namosi tribe it is used as a resting place between the coast and the interior. We left it next morning, and fording the Navua and a tributary stream five times, we arrived at Koro Wai-wai about 4 p.m. At Nakusari I had a slight attack of Mauritius fever during the night, and next day in fording the river for the first time, I felt quite giddy when in the middle of the stream, but calling the guide to take my hand I arrived safely on the other side. The water w^as nearly 3 feet deep at this place and running rapidly, and the bed of the river was covered with loose stones which frequently rolled from under the feet. The depth of the water and the strength of the current rendered it dangerous to lift the feet ; but with the aid of a stick and pushing one's foot forward a few inches at a time, the river w r as safely forded. Q 2019. c 34 Many of the natives were employed taking yams to the coast on rafts made of bamboos. It was an interesting sight to see, from a height, long trains of these rafts floating' down the river one after another. man on each raft guides it with a long pole, avoid- ing shoals and rocks, keeping it in deep water and preventing it from running against the banks. The land between Nukusari and Koro "\Yai-wai is of excellent quality and well suited for growing coffee. Much of it had been cultivated, but had been allowed to relapse into forest. From Koro TTai-wai excursions were made up a branch of the Navua river, to the villages of Lasa- lasi and Biba. The land seen was fertile and well adapted for growing coffee. As seen from the cliffs on the banks of the river, the rocks were agglo- merate and sedimentary. We left Koro Wai-wai and after a short journey of about 5 miles arrived at Namosi. This village lies in the bottom of a beau- tiful valley surrounded by lofty mountains, some of which (Vonia) rise to an elevation of nearly 3,000 feel above the sea. The entrance to the valley and the exit from it are on the course of the Wai-dina. A.1 the village this river is about 6 yards wide, and the surrounding scenery is indescribably fine. "For many reasons the site of Namosi is well adapted for an inland 1 own. The climate is delightfully cool at night and noi too hot during the day. There are no mosquitoes, at least in the cool season, and then the temperature at night falls to 55° and even 50° F., vrhilsl in the day it rises to 70° and 75°. "VVe stayed a week at Namosi, and from it took long rambles into the mountains, which arc well wooded with many fine oimens of the best kinds of timber trees peculiar to Fiji A young, petty chief acted as our guide, 35 who, on being asked what countryman he was, drew himself up and, with a great assumption of dignity, replied, " Kai Birctania Saka," a British subject, Sir. We ascended Mount Voma, from the top of which an extensive view of the country, indeed of the greater part of Fiji, was obtained. It extended to Ovalau on the east and to Kadavu in the south ; on the west and north, a dense forest and a series of hills rising above and beyond each other until they seemed to meet in the distant horizon. The view was an extensive one, but many of the objects were too distant to stand out in anything like distinctness. The prettiest objects were the valley and the windings of the Wai-dina, which latter, like a silver thread, meandered through all the varied shades of colour which a fertile valley, partially wooded, partially cultivated, and well populated, ever presents to the eye. JNamosi used to be a clean and well-kept village, but lately it has been much neglected. In times gone by some of its people and their chiefs were notorious cannibals. The stones, which are said to be a record of the number of bodies consumed by the chiefs, may be seen standing near the site of the old heathen temple, or "Devil's Bure." The rocks in the vicinity are basalt, agglomerate, and aqueous, but principally the two former. The land is very fertile ; in the bottom of the valley and on the sides of the low hills surrounding it, sugar cane might be grown, and coffee in more elevated parts. Prom Namosi we travelled to Vienunga (as pro- nounced), a village about 20 miles to the west. When about 4 miles on our journey, we were shewn the place where a shaddock tree once grew, of which it has been said, that the fruit which fell on one side was carried to the sea by the Wai-dina and the C 2 36 Llewa, and thai which fell on the other side by the Navua river. We passed Koro Wai-wai on the way, and although the path was on the top of an elevated ridge the view to he obtained was an ex- tremely limited one, on account of the rain and fog. The path afterwards became very bad, precipitous, muddy, and slippery. Several streams were passed, the path taking us occasionally along their rocky beds. After crossing the Wai ni Awa, at a cleanly kept village of the same name, the path ran along the crest of a ridge whose rocky sides were almost perpendicular, and large rocks seemed to block the way. We scrambled over these huge rocks by the aid of rough steps cut in the slippery stone and upright logs with notches cut into them for the feet. The top of the rock was a plateau on which several circular terraces, one above another, in the form of fortifications, had been made by the natives. The place has evidently been one of the old " fighting towns," or forts, into which the people retired in troublous times, when not only tribes had their feuds, but neighbouring villages even seemed always to have a standing quarrel to he fought out as opportunity offered. These old forti- fications are numerous in Fiji. Every mountain top is such a one, and the narrow mountain ridges lead- ing to it are cut across by deep ditches to act as lines of def< oce against invaders, and to render the "fight- ing town " safer to dwell in. Hence, in a great mea- sure, the reason is to be found why the Fijians directed their paths along the beds of streams and the tops of ridges, from the latter of which good views of the country could be obtained. These made progress diffi- cult, and, for the same reason, the immediate ap- proaches to villages were often of the most intricate 37 kind. The position chosen for a fort was naturally a strong one, and, where art was called in for its aid, it was easily made impregnable to the modes of warfare practised by the old Fijians. They were generally well supplied with provisions, and also with water from frequent showers. Within a few of them there were springs of water and even ground for growing bananas, — plantations of which still remain. For the last 7 miles to Vienunga, where we arrived about 5 p.m., the path was a well made one and led through virgin forests. The country passed through from Koro Wai-wai was very hilly. Rocks of a sedimentary character were most numerous, but volcanic breccia and basalt were also occasionally seen. Up to our arrival in the vicinity of Vienunga most of the land had been cultivated at one time, and then, in accord- ance with the custom of the country, allowed to rest and to become overgrown with scrub and reeds. The soil was seen to be of good quality and suitable for growing coffee and tea. Vienunga is a large and clean village on the banks of a small river which falls into the Navua. As a rule the villages in Fiji are built on the banks of rivers and large streams ; always near water. This village is situated in the centre of the forest which extends for miles round it in all directions. A portion of this forest is felled annually, and the land turned into plantations for growing yams, dalo, bananas, &c. We stayed here several days and had long rambles in the forests, in which several new plants were found. These forests are well stocked with timber trees, especially the damanu, which is one of the best and most useful woods to be found in Fiji. It is a pity to see so much timber wasted here ; fine trees are felled 38 and then burnt off the land, while large imports of timber for building are constantly arriving from New land and Oregon, and yet the damanu is superior both to the kauri of the one country and to thepme of the other. The timber cut down for clearing might, in many instances, be floated down the rivers to the coast, where it could be utilised. This should be done after the timber is seasoned in the log, as some of the kinds, when green, are too heavy for floating, or, their buoyancy might be aided by the use of bamboo rafts. A large number of the natives in Namosi, and some other villages which I visited, are covered with what is locally known as the Tokalu, or Solomon Island ringworm. This is, I believe, a fungus, which lives and spreads in the skin until it extends all over the body. The skin becomes rough, and changes from its natural dark colour to grey, and the body of the infected person at a short distance appears as if covered with scales, like a fish. The disease, if it may be so called, is infectious but not painful, and it docs not seem to impair the strength or energy of those affected by it. The Chief Medical officer of the colony has prescribed an effectual cure for it, but it is difficult, if nol impossible, to get the natives to use it Long enough to make a cure. At Vienunga the natives have a cure of their own, the sap of a tree which they call km karo. The tree abounds in the forests in differenl parts of Fiji, but I was not fortu- nate enough to gel either Hie flower or the fruit of it. It seemed to be a species of Oncocarpus. One or more Bpecies of this genus are indigenous to the islands, and the juice is acrid and burning. The natives use the juice by allowing a few drops to fall 39 on the parts affected, which it inflames and burns out. The Fijians are careful not to allow any of it to touch their fingers, but I tried some on the back of my hand without noticing any injury done. We visited the nurseries of young coffee plants which the Government are getting up to aid the natives in establishing coffee plantations. At Namosi and other villages which we passed, the seedlings looked well and thriving, but nowhere had they been so well attended to as at Vienunga, and at no place were they to be found in better health. Vienunga was the first village where we found the language to differ from that spoken on the coast. Very few of the common people understood the interpreter. As we were to visit many other places in the interior, where the coast language is only spoken by a few, I engaged a young man who was familiar with both, and by his help and our own interpreter, we were soon able to carry on all necessary communication. The journey from Vienunga to na Moali was, for the fourth part of the distance, through the forest. The path was very rough ; fallen trees blocked the way, and at almost every few yards a stream had to be crossed ; then it conducted us along the bed of the Wai Moali, a small river which flows into the Navua ; indeed, all the streams crossed by us since we left Namosi are tributaries of that river. The land which we passed through was fertile, and both it and the climate were suitable for coffee, tea, or cinchona cultivation. The rocks seen were principally of aqueous origin, but those of an igneous nature were abundantly represented. The village of na Maoli lies in. the region between the wet and dry parts of Viti Levu. Open grass-covered hills, which are inter- 40 spersed park-like with clumps of forest, are character- istic of this locality. The soil is fertile, and the surface is not too steep for growing the sugar cane. Tea and coffee would also succeed here. Agglome- rate rocks abound, hut some of aqueous nature were also noticed. After passing the village of Vosi Dam the path to na Tua-tua-coko, or Fort Carnarvon, was a very rough one indeed. For about 9 miles it went through in- numerable beds of dalo, along irrigating water-courses, and then down the rocky bed of a mountain torrent to TTai Basaga, on the left bank of the Siga Toka river. The forests which lie between Vosi Dam and na Moali are full of the best and largest timber trees that I have seen in Fiji, and a very large proportion of them have reached a mature stage of growth. At Vosi Dam an extensive view of the province of Navosa was obtained. This is the dry part of Fiji, and the chief features in the scenery are low hills covered with grass and small tracts of forest in some of the valleys and on a few of the mountains. We forded the Siga Toka at the village of Wai Basaga, and after crossing some low hills covered with grass and recrossing the river, we arrived at Fort Carnarvon, so called .itter the late Secretary of State for the Colonies. The country passed through consisted of hills with very steep sides, which had been much dis- figured by land-slips. Many dalo plantations were -'•,■11 i n terraces on the hill sides. The annual fires cause great damage to this part of the country. Iii< greater part of the land is of fair quality, but it Buffers periodically from drought. Sedimentary ami basaltic rocks were the most common kinds erred. The houses in this part are built in a differ- 41 ent manner from those on the coast. Their length is about equal to their breadth, and they have high pitched roofs. The thatch is thickest at the eaves, where it is bent into a horizontal position and then cut short. Fort Carnarvon was built by the Govern- ment after the late rebellion was quelled. Its site is on the left bank of the Siga Toga river, about 250 yards from the stream. It is built on the top of a low hill surrounded by plains, and is occupied by from 60 to 80 men of the armed constabulary, all of whom are natives drawn from the various provinces of the group. They are under the command of a native lieutenant, who is the son of a renowned Fiji chief, — Hitova of Macuta. The Governor's Commissioner, who also acts as magistrate of the province, has his head-quarters at the fort. Of all occupations the natives like soldiering the best, and when on duty they have a dignified and martial appearance. Up to a certain point they learn their drill very rapidly, and go through the movements with great precision. A native chaplain is stationed at the fort, who also acts as teacher to the men. Besides attending to their military duties, the men are employed in planting and raising food for their own consumption. Their food a short time ago was all purchased from the people of the vicinity ; now the greater part is grown by them on the flat land in the neighbourhood. Built in the centre of the district in which the late rebellion broke out, the fort was intended to be of service in any similar outbreak, — an event not likely again to occur, as the people all seem cheerfully to have accepted Government control, and are quite ready to submit their differences to its decision. This part of the country is occupied by numerous 42 petty tribes, who were almost constantly at war with each other, except when they patched up their differ- ences to settle any difficulty they might have with their neighbours on the coast. From the fort I went to Pickering's Peak (Koroba) to see the sandalwood which was said to grow on its sides, returning by way of Wai-wai, and the bridle path between Nadi and Fort Carnarvon. The coun- try here was very hilly and the land covered with long grass and clumps of the vunga tree, metrosideros polymorpha, &c. On the tops of the mountains and in many of the valleys there are patches of forest. In these a large amount of excellent timber and other useful trees, the lauci s aleurites triloba, are found, a portion of which is annually cleared by the Fijians to make room for their food plantations, or destroyed by raging fires. The land was from fair to good in quality. In many places it is suitable for coii'ec, and in some others, as at na Sau-coka, for sugar cane. In the vicinity of Fort Carnarvon I visited some large caves among the calcareous rocks there, which were once a stronghold of the cannibals. The entrance to the cave- was defended by walls and a fence of lemon trees, on which I found some human bones which the inhabitants of the caves had exposed to view to show all who passed what might be the result of a quarrel with them. This custom was not uncommon among the Fijians when they were cannibals, the shaddock being the favourite tree on which to expose the bones of their victims. These bones were generally put in the forks of the branches, or where the branches united with the trunk. If the trees were young and thriving, the bones in a few years became em- bedded in the wood. I could not learn why the 43 shaddock, lemon, and lime trees were selected for this purpose, and presume it was simply because these kinds abounded in the vicinity of villages to a much greater extent than others. In the dry season the Siga Toka river, at Port Carnarvon, is about 30 yards wide, and from 1^ feet to 2 feet deep. As far into the mountains as na Tua-tua-coka there is a large area of excellent flat land which is suitable for growing sugar cane. Near the coast also the area of such land is said to be extensive, and I believe that, with the low hills and the alluvial flats, there are from 20 to 25 square miles of good cane land on the borders of this river. The locality is dry, but land which has such a quantity of fresh water running through it to the sea, should not be much affected by drought. Coral limestone and a rough calcareous look- ing sandstone abound in this neighbourhood, but volcanic breccia and basaltic rocks are not uncommon. We left Fort Carnarvon for Nadrau, stopping the first day on account of a violent thunderstorm at a village called Mata-wala, the next at another called Bilo, and arriving at Nadrau on the 5 ; third day. The path was in some places along the beds of streams, then it ran along the tops of the hills, occasionally crossing inverted V shaped ridges at right angles ; over rocks and down precipices at angles varying from 80° to 90.° It was annoying, after a long climb up one side of a steep hill, to see the path winding among the long grass, up and over a similar hill just before us, and also to know that we had to go down an almost perpendicular descent of nearly a 1,000 feet, to leap from one slippery stone to another along the rocky bed of a stream in the bottom of the 44 valley, and again to ascend to an equal if not greater elevation than the one we were standing upon. We passed through numerous small tracts of forest, all of which seemed to have sprung up after land had been cultivated. These were interspersed with open pieces of land thickly covered with reeds. Although we traversed this district in the dry season, — and the locality is one of the driest in Fiji, — yet, judging from the vegetation, the rainfall at some period of the year must be considerable, probably amounting to from 80 to 90 inches per annum. I noticed on this journey, and also in the vicinity of Pickering's Peak, that in passing over the wooded mountain tops, showers and fogs constantly occurred, and the vegetation was dripping with moisture, while on the open grass land at some distance from the woods, and at about the same elevation, the dust was blowing on the paths, and and the grass was perfectly dry. The streams which were passed during this journey were affluents of the Ba river, the sources of which we had traversed until avc arrived at the top of the ravine or gorge at the bottom of which the village of Nadrau is situated. Boeks of sedimentary origin were the most abundant kinds ; but volcanic breccia in the beds of a few streams and also at Bilo was well represented. Basalt was not uncommon, notably at a village about midway between Nadrau and Bilo. The strata of the sedi- mentary rocks on the tops of the ridges were generally Lying in a horizontal position, and those on the sides wrere more or less inclined. Several varieties of sedi- mentary rocks abound in the province of Navosa, and marble la Baid to have been discovered there. Near tic village of Wai-wai these rocks form cliffs about 45 100 feet in height. Some of them are coraline, and at the caves alluded to I saw pieces of coral embedded in them. Most of the land passed through was fertile, and in many parts suited for coffee growing. Good pas- ture abounds everywhere, and this part of the country is well adapted for rearing cattle, horses, and sheep. An old heathen temple exists at Nadrau, the only one I saw in .Fiji, but it is far gone to ruin. We stayed at this place a day or two and then went on to na Babuca, on the Wai ni Loa (or Black river), a branch of the Wai ni Mala. After crossing the Siga Toka we ascended the cliff on its east side by a narrow path. We subsequently proceeded up a narrow valley, the path running along the bed and by the side of a canal, made with some ingenuity and much labour by the natives on the steep, rocky side of the valley to irrigate dalo beds. About a mile or so in a straight line from Nadrau we came upon some marshes among which the Wai ni Mala has its course. Then on we passed through some flat park-like country, and entered the primeval forest near the village of Wai Dra-dra. At this village the inhabitants of Nadrau grow their provisions, as yams, bananas, land dalo, &c. As at Vienunga, a portion of the forest is annually felled for the purpose of making new plantations. The journey hence to Babuca was the most pleasant that I made while in Fiji. The path was through the virgin forests, well shaded from the sun, either level or gradually descending. Here I made a good collection of rare ferns and other plants. The timber trees usually seen in such localities abounded. On the way we passed some agglomerate and basaltic rocks, but the sedimentary kinds were most common. The soil was of excellent quality, and suited for growing either coffee, cinchona, or tea, the 46 two latter especially in the neighbourhood of TTai Dra-dra. Babuca is the name of a small district as well of a village. "VYe stayed in it several days, and had long rambles in the forests. This part of the country is exceedingly mountainous, and is well wooded. Portions of the woods are annually cleared as elsewhere ; but on account of the superabundance of rain, nature soon restores the balance by the rapid growth of other portions ; and, also, on account of the moisture, fires are neither so extensive nor destructive in the province of Xavosa. Agglomerate is the kind of rock that most abounds, but those of aqueous origin were also met with. The land is fertile, and coffee would thrive well upon it. On leaving Babuca the path to na Koro Vatu led down the bed of the AVai ni Loa to its junction with the AVai ni Mala, and afterwards along the bed of that river, nearly as far as the village of Ruku-ruku. We found it a rough one, and, following the course of the river, we had to climb over boulders, and to cross the river 15 times. The depth of water at the fords below the confluence of the two rivers, varied from 3 to 5 feet. The scenery of the river was extremely pretty, country was mountainous and well wooded. At several places the TTai ni Loa has cut through in- verted V or triangular shaped ridges, exposing whole Beriea of strata. On the journey to na Koro Vatu we stopped a night at Koro Suli, a large village on lelt bani of the river. A short ramble into the wae made at this place, when a new species of gardenia and Beveral species of ferns were collected. On resuming our journey the country began to open out, to be Less densely wooded, and less mountainous. The course of the river is crooked. The large flats on 47 its banks are eminently suited for the growth of the sugar cane. In the vicinity of Ruku-ruku and of na Koro Vatu there is an area of about 50 square miles of good cane land, consisting of these alluvial flats and low hills. Near these two villages, and also near Kami Husai, beautiful and extensive views of different parts of the country were obtained — mountains, valleys, wood, water, picturesque looking villages, and culti- vated land. Na Koro Vatu is a large well-kept village, situated, as its name implies, on a rock, which over- hangs the Wai ni Mala. In this neighbourhood large nurseries of coffee plants are being formed under the watchful eye of the intelligent district com- missioner. With the young plants it is intended to establish plantations to be cultivated by the natives who live in the mountain districts near the sources of the Wai ni Buka and Wai ni Mala. In the deep pools of the last named river sharks abound, and a short time before my visit a child, who had acci- dentally fallen into one of these pools at na Koro Vatu, was devoured by one of these creatures within sight of its mother, while she was occupied in washing her cooking utensils on the edge of the water. I also heard the case of a man, who about the same time went alone to bathe in one of these deep pools, and was severely bitten by one of these voracious animals — the flesh being torn from one of his thighs. We forded the Wai ni Mala, about a mile below na Koro Vatu, and travelled across the country to na Buke Luke, on the Wai Dina. At that place the Wai ni Mala is about 40 yards broad, 3 feet deep, and the current runs from 2 to 3 miles an hour. It is subject to sudden floods, and sometimes rises 17 feet in a single night. The country traversed in this 48 part was covered with low hills, on which grass and trees were growing, the land having been previously cultivated. The soil was fertile, and adapted for grow- ing Liberian coffee, cacoa, and in some places sugar cane. The latter could be grown more particularly towards the course of the Wai-dina, on the banks of which there is a large area of flats and other lands on which it could be grown to perfection. I stayed a few days at na Buke Luke and ascended Buke Levu, a mountain about 1,800 feet above the sea level, from which fine and extensive views of the country could be obtained. Na Buke Luke is about 20 miles east of Namosi by the course of the river. The rocks seen on the journey were mostly sedimen- tary ; on the sides of Buke Levu agglomerate, basaltic, and aqueous rocks were common. I left na Buke Luke in the morning, and arrived at Veseri village about five in the afternoon. The path led through the forest, in which I gathered several new species of ferns, and made additions to my collec- tion of flowering plants. The forest was well stocked with good timber, such as damanu, &c. The path was steep and wet, especially the latter part of it, which took us down the bed of the Veseri river, after having crossed the Wai Manu and several tributary streams. The land which we passed over was good and favour- able for growing cacoa, and both the common and the Liberian species of coffee. The rocks were mostly aqueous, but both basalt and agglomerate were noticed at dill civnt places, particularly in the bed of the Veseri river. Veseri is a small village situated on the river of the same name, about 3 miles towards the interior from the head of Suva bay. The river is navigable to the 49 village for boats drawing a few feet of water. Near the village there are nearly 3 square miles of flat land and low hills on which sugar cane could be profitably grown. My friends at Suva on hearing that 1 had arrived at Veseri, came in a boat for me at midnight and took me to their home, where I once more expe- rienced their hospitality and kindness. Two days after my return to Suva the steamer formerly alluded to called, on her monthly trip, and I returned to Levuka via the western and northern parts of Viti Levu. On the way a short stay was made off the mouth of the Navua, where a mail was landed, and then pro- ceeding past Serua, we anchored for the night in Nadroga harbour. The next place of call was off the Ta^vu river, up which, with a small party, I went 8 miles in a rowing boat. Here we saw a fine planta- tion of tobacco belonging to an enterprising settler, in whose garden we saw some rare exotic trees which, with much care and at great expense, had been introduced from Australia, and they seemed to be doing well. On the river there are about 6 square miles of fine cane land. The country in the vicinity is hilly, covered with long grass and dotted with screw pine trees. The soil is not bad, but it has been much injured by the fires which periodically burn up the grass. We next stopped at Nacli, where there are numerous settlers, who, instead of growing cotton as formerly, now give their attention to the cultivation of maize. Some of these settlers are raising stock, and getting up herds of Angora goats, for which the place seems well suited. The sugar cane would flourish well here, but there are no mills to crush it or to make sugar. Off the mouth of the Ba river the steamer stopped for about an hour, then proceeded to Nananu Islands and Q2019. D 50 Viti Leva bay, anchored for the night, and arrived at Levuka the next morning. The northern parts of Viti Levu are very moun- tainous. These mountains are covered with grass, and here and there with screw pine trees, standing singly or in small clumps. Patches of forest were seen on the tops of a few hills, and in the valleys between them. Fringes of mangroves were noticed on the shore, and the large mud flats at the mouth of the Ba river were covered with them. Occasional groves of cocoa-nut trees were seen growing behind the mangroves, and settlers' houses and native villages were frequently noticed. At Nananu an energetic and enterprising gentleman is breeding Angora goats, rearing silkworms, and has a promising plantation of young cocoa-nut trees. At Viti Levu bay there is a colony of settlers who are mostly growing maize. The ^learner leaving at daylight, I had no opportunity of landing at this place, but I believe there is a large area of flat land both here and on the Ba river, as well as in other parts of the northern coast of Viti Levu, extending from Nadi to Tova j>eak. From reliable information on this subject, I estimate the area at about GO square miles. It is good cane land, and I have no doubt that coil'ee would grow in many parts in the mountains at a short distance from the coast. Good pasturage abounds all along this coast, on which sheep, horses, and cattle could be reared in numbers mor« ■ than sumc Lent to meet the requirements of the group. From Levuka I went in the steamer on its next trip to Bua. This is a large province or district in tb.' south-west ofVanua Levu. The sandalwood, for which this districl was once famous, has almost dis- 51 appeared, only a few trees remaining. Bua is said to be one of the driest parts in Fiji, but according to the observations made by Mr. Holmes at Delanasau in this district, the rainfall varies from 80 to 159 inches in the year, the average for the last six years being 118 inches. I remained here for a week in the hospitable home of one of the settlers, during which time I made several journeys to what still remained of the forests, collecting about a hundred different species of flowering plants and ferns which I had not met with in other parts of the group. At Kadi there is a thriving coffee plantation which is being gradually extended. There are about 15 square miles of alluvial land — river flats, and low hills, which would grow sugar cane well, and still leave space to increase the cocoa-nut trees nearly a thonsancl-fold. The country is covered with long grass and reeds and pieces of forest, especially in the .ravines. Fires in this, as in so many other parts of Fiji, do great injury to vegetation and to the soil. One of the settlers is getting up a herd of fine cattle, which will help to keep down the rank grass, and so tend to prevent fires from spreading. The river here is navigable for several miles inland, and the alluvial flats bordering it are very extensive. I left Bua and journeyed to Wai-Nunu, across the southern point of the island. On the way I stopped for a night at the village of Warei. The path was in some places rough and wet, and in the latter part of its course it went along the banks and bed of the Wai Levu to Warei. In every district of Fiji there is a Wai Levu, i.e., a large river or stream. In most parts of the country passed through, the soil was good, and suitable for growing the common coffee and that of Liberia. The m ountaiu , D2 52 valley, and water scenery at Warei was very fine indeed. The inhabitants of this village were the poorest I had seen in the group, and their houses were in a very dilapidated condition. The burying ground, as at many other plaees in Fiji, was close to the village. In many instances the Fijians attend most carefully to the graves of their departed friends. These resting places are commonly parterres planted with choice and gay flowering plants, ornamental trees and shrubs. Not unfrequently the graves are covered with mosaic- like patterns made of variously coloured pieces of coral and pebbles, gathered one by one at immense labour, and during, perhaps, many years. From Warei I went to Koro Levu, a village on the south-east coast of the island. The route for some distance was through the mountains and then along the coast, the path being well made, but in many places steep. The soil in the mountain district was of good quality and capable of growing coffee. Near the coast it was rich, and sugar cane, cacoa, and Liberian coffee would thrive well upon it. There is ample space on the coast for an indefinite extension of the cocoa-nut tree. At Koro Levu the Commissioner of Lands was holding his court, — conducting a patient and pains- taking inquiry into the claims of settlers to lands in the district purchased from the natives previous to the ceding of the islands to Great Britain, — " Crown grants " or title deeds being given in all cases where satisfactory proof could be shown. The locks noticed were principally aqueous and ag- glomerate, but some of a basaltic character w r ere also Been. There now being several large estuaries to cross bei ween Koro Levu and Wai-Nunu, I was advised to tike ;i canoe, and on arriving at the latter place I 53 found a cutter, which a much respected gentleman had sent from Savu-savu hay to take me to Taviuni. At "Wai-Nunu the land is fertile, suitable near the sea for cocoa-nuts (for which there is space for more exten- sive planting), and further inland for sugar cane, Liberian and common coffee, and cacoa. On getting under weigh we tacked out of the river, but the wind being against us we landed again in the evening. Next morning we endeavoured to beat through the pass in the reefs, but the tide had turned, and the wind being still contrary, a furious sea was raised in the pass, so that we were obliged to proceed inside the reefs, rounding Kobalau point, and reaching Savu- savu in the evening. The gentleman to whose kind- ness I have just alluded took me to his home, and a gale setting in soon after, I was detained there for a few days. On leaving my kind entertainer, I travelled along the south coast of the island to Vatu Kali, near " Fawn Harbour," arrangements having been made for the cutter to follow. There is quite a number of settlers on this part of the coast, who have fine planta- tions of cocoa-nuts and thriving herds of cattle. To several of them I was indebted for hospitable enter- tainment. All this coast is well adapted for growing the cocoa-nut tree, which, although now abundant, could be vastly increased. The soil is invariably good, and in places on the sides of the low hills and on the flat lands sugar cane would thrive admirably, as also the two kinds of coffee already so frequently mentioned. The rocks noticed were agglomerate, basalt, and coral, the first and last particularly common. We left Vatu Kali in the cutter at daylight, but, owing to calms and light winds, and these contrary, it 54 was evening before wo arrived at WairiM in Taviuni. There T was soon at homo with old friends and acquain- tances, who accompanied me in my journeys through Taviuni. Tin's is a very fertile island, and capable of producing large quantities of sugar, coffee, and cocoa-nuts. There are considerable numbers of the latter, but there is room for twice as many. I visited several coffee plan- tations which have lately been made, especially at Gali, and at Messrs. Smith and Aitchinson's, and Forest Creek. These give great promise of success. At na Sali Levu a large sugar estate is in full operation, and the mill is capable of making from two to three tons of sugar per day. The sugar cane grows to perfection here, and in the island there is room for more than thirty such mills. These would be also well supplied with canes by the numerous settlers, who for want of mills are now debarred from turning their attention to this cultivation, and are at present at a loss to know what to do with their land. Some of them grow maize, cocoa-nuts, or cotton, and ;i few rear stock ; but all would prefer growing canes, for which bo1 h soil and climate are well adapted, and which would pay better than any other article of production. The area of the island is computed at about 217 square miles, of which about 45 near the coast could be planted with eocoa-nuts, 45 with sugar cane, and 45 with coffee, leaving 82 square miles for forest reserves and waste land. When pas^inu' through the village of Somosomo Taviuni. we called on Tui Cakau, Roko of Cakau- drove province. II<> was absent; had in fact gone with the men of the village to plant their yams, and iperintend and assist with the work. 55 On seeing a meke 3 a native dance or play, accom- panied by songs, I was surprised to observe the exact manner in which time was kept by the numerous actors. It is the result of practice and many patient rehearsals from youth upwards. In walking through this village we came on a party of about 30 people, who, in preparing for a festival, were practising and reciting the piece which they were to perform for the amusement of their friends. An old man, lying on his side on the grass, but in full view of the actors, was watching the rehearsal, criticising and correcting the faults of the actors. The province of Cakaudrove includes Taviuni, ex- tends in Vanua Lavu to Savu-savu bay, and includes all the land surrounding Natawa bay. The Hoko keeps a smart schooner yacht of about 70 tons, and a cutter, also manned by Eijians, to carry him to different parts of the province, or of the group, either on busi- ness or pleasure. The Fijian s are owners of numerous rowing and sailing boats, and small vessels of all sizes, up to that of the schooner just mentioned. These craft have, in a great measure, taken the place of the large sea canoes, for which these islands were once noted. The Pijians are hardy if not careless sailors of boats, and, direetly or indirectly, they are good customers to the excellent boat builders of the group. These, to some extent, have taken the place of the native canoe builders. The Eijians have quite a number of athletic games, among which may be mentioned, throwing the tinika or reed, wrestling, and one not unlike skittles in some respects. In this game, pillars about a foot in height are built with small stones, and in such a manner that they fall when slightly touched. Several of these 56 pillars (the number varies from 3 to 12) are built near each «>t her in a row, or in half a circle. The player stands at about 30 yards from the pillars, but with his back or side to them, and tries, by throwing a stone from behind, to knock the pillars down. Two others place themselves between the pillars and the player, one on each side, but a few yards from the direct line between the player and the pillars, and with stones endeavour to strike the stone thrown by the player on its passage from him to the pillars. This they frequently succeed in doing. Throwing the tinika, or reed, is practised in the village Mara (square), or on a piece of ground smoothed for the purpose. The tinika is an oval- shaped piece of heavy wood, about 4 inches long and 2 inches in diameter at the thickest part. A reed or cane about 3 feet long is inserted at the small end, and the game is who will throw or shoot it farthest. The thrower, balancing the reed as in throwing a spear, — his arm stretched at full length, steps backward a few paces, then rushing forward gii i - the throw the weight of his body as well as his strength of arm, and shoots the reed straight out with meat force to a distance of over 300 yards, in- cluding the distance which the reed skims along the ground. Returning to Levuka the steamer called at the island of Mokogai, on which cocoa-nuts are well re- presented, and nearly all parts of which could be turned into proves of this useful and valuable tree. Copra is extensively made there, and there is also " plan! ' for extracting fibre from the husk of the nuts. Rheep arc bred iu the island, and several good flocks