at
 

 
 xed, f
 
 RECORDS 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON'S 
 
 LAST EXPEDITION 
 
 TO 
 
 AFRICA: 
 
 BY RICHARD LANDER, 
 
 HIS FAITHFUL ATTENDANT, AND THE ONLY SURVIVING 
 MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION : 
 
 WITH THE 
 SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY 
 
 NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 
 
 1830.
 
 5139430. 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 Page 
 INTRODUCTION ix 
 
 SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR'S LIFE 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 List of the Gentlemen and others engaged in the 
 Mission. The Brazen sails from Portsmouth- 
 Touches at the Madeiras, Canaries, and Cape de 
 Verd Islands Pursues and overtakes a French 
 slave ship Falls in with H. M. S. Swinger 
 Arrives and anchors at Sierra Leone The Au- 
 thor's first illness . 15 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The ship sails again Captures a Spanish schooner 
 with slaves The natives on the coast come on
 
 I CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 
 board Vessel anchors at Cape Coast Sails 
 from thence, and captures another slave vessel 
 Arrives at Whydah, where Mr. Dickson lands 
 His progress through the country, and reported 
 death The Brazen comes to an anchor in Bada- 
 gry Roads The Gentlemen of the Mission give a 
 last farewell to the officers on board, and proceed 
 on shore ........ 29 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 The travellers reach Badagry, and leave that city 
 on the 7th of December Dr. Morrison's illness 
 Arrival at Latoo Captain Pearce and the Au- 
 thor attacked with fever Enter Jannah Con- 
 tinued and alarming illness of the party Their 
 progress Dr. Morrison returns to Jannah . 45 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Deaths of Dawson, Captain Pearce, and Dr. Morri- 
 son Their funeral The survivors, after meeting 
 with various occurrences, and experiencing the 
 kindest hospitality from the natives on their route, 
 arrive at Katunga, the capital of Yariba, on the 
 15th of January, 1826 73
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Page 
 
 Residence at Katunga Ebo the Eunuch Pantomi- 
 mic representation by the Yaribeans Departure 
 from the city of Katunga Arrival at Khiama 
 Wow Wow Manners of the People Boussa 
 Mungo Park 108 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Widow Zuma's Love Adventures Departure from 
 Wow Wow Arrival at Coulfo Civil war in Nyffe 
 Ceremonies observed by the people of Coulfo at 
 the end of the Rhamadan Tornado at that place, 
 and its disastrous consequences The Travellers quit 
 Coulfo, and proceed on their journey The Author 
 attacked with dysentery His sufferings Noble 
 conduct of Captain Clapperton towards him They 
 enter ZegZeg Arrive at Kano . . . .150 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Residence at Kano Captain Clapperton leaves for 
 Soccatoo History of Pasko, the Houssa Inter- 
 preter Pasko's robberies and confinement Return 
 of the Captain with the Godado, after an ineffectual 
 attempt to reach Soccatoo His second departure 
 from Kano His Letters . .198
 
 Vlli CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 P.ge 
 
 The Author quits Kano to join his Master His ill- 
 ness on the road Anecdotes of the Natives, and his 
 reception by them Pasko's new robbery, and 
 elopement He is overtaken, and brought back 
 The Tuarick merchants The Author's arrival at 
 Soccatoo, the metropolis of the Falatah empire 
 Residence there Pasko's dismissal, conduct, and 
 marriage ........ 231 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Religion Laws Government Amusements, &c. of 
 the Natives from Badagry to Soccatoo Slavery in 
 the interior countries Timidity of the people 
 State of the Arts amongst them Dry and Wet 
 Seasons ........ 270
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ON my return from Africa in the summer of 
 1828, I was so ill with fever and debility, that I 
 had neither spirit nor inclination to devote 
 much time to the compilation and arrangement 
 of my notes, and of the short sketches of charac- 
 ter taken by stealth in the heart of that conti- 
 nent. My duty and sole design, in laying my 
 Journal before the British Government, were to 
 satisfy Ministers with regard to my conduct 
 after the decease of Captain Clapperton, my 
 lamented master ; and to make them acquainted 
 with the manner in which the property left in 
 my charge at Soccatoo had been disposed of, in 
 my hazardous journey back to the sea-coast. 
 Besides, I had not seen my friends in Cornwall 
 
 A5
 
 X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 for a period little short of thirteen years ; and it 
 is quite natural to suppose that I should have 
 felt a longing to re-visit the place of my nati- 
 vity, after so protracted and painful an ab- 
 sence. It is not to be wondered at, when all this 
 is considered, that my printed Narrative, drawn 
 up in haste, and without having received the 
 benefit of even the slightest assistance, except 
 from a younger brother, should be incomplete, 
 and in many instances carelessly expressed. 
 
 To remedy, if possible, these defects, and to 
 insert the relation of a thousand amusing inci- 
 dents which had been overlooked, I have in the 
 following pages given my Narrative a new and a 
 more complete dress ; and I sincerely hope that 
 my countrymen will not be displeased at my 
 humble but persevering attempts to depict, in 
 true colours, the customs and ceremonies of the 
 powerful nations or tribes inhabiting that vast 
 tract of country lying between Badagry and the 
 beautiful kingdom of Houssa. 
 
 The natives of the regions traversed by Cap- 
 tain Clapperton and myself ever regarded our 
 writing apparatus with mingled sensations of
 
 INTRODUCTION. XI 
 
 alarm and jealousy; and fancied, when they 
 observed us using them, that we were making 
 fetishes (charms) and enchantments prejudicial 
 to their lives and interests. To this cause is 
 attributable the absence of many particulars, 
 both in my master's Journal and my own, 
 which, though unimportant in themselves, serve 
 to pourtray, and to place in a natural and lively 
 point of view, the most conspicuous touches in 
 the character of the African, and gradually to 
 develope his passions, prejudices, and remarkable 
 superstitions. We were unwilling to raise up 
 enemies against us in a strange land, by continu- 
 ing, in presence of the people, a practice which 
 awakened their jealousy, and served only to 
 make us objects of distrust and hatred to them 
 all. Hence we were obliged to cherish in our me- 
 mory various particulars which we were unable, 
 at that period, to put on paper; contenting 
 ourselves with the hope that, on our return to 
 England, we should have ample leisure to devote 
 to the accomplishment of that object; this 
 was, however, unfortunately frustrated by the 
 decease of Captain Clapperton. I myself have
 
 Xll INTRODUCTION. 
 
 consequently taken the liberty, in the following 
 pages, of attempting to carry into execution the 
 project which that intrepid officer had in view 
 when alive, and in the full hope of returning to 
 his native land. 
 
 The recreations and songs of the people, as 
 well as their wars, laws, religion and govern- 
 ment, I have endeavoured faithfully to describe. 
 Of course it cannot be expected that a person in 
 my humble situation of life should have powers 
 of language sufficient to give these descriptions 
 the fullest charm of which they may be sus- 
 ceptible: yet I have done the best my poor 
 abilities would allow me. I have translated 
 several songs from the figurative language of 
 the natives into the English tongue, adopt- 
 ing the similes, and copying the mode of ex- 
 pression, as nearly as the idiom of the former 
 would permit ; while, in the absence of techni- 
 cal terms relative to law, &c., I have chosen 
 words which have appeared to me the simplest, 
 and which indeed occur most easily to me. 
 
 The engagements of the Falatahs with their 
 sable neighbours can scarcely fail of being inter-
 
 INTRODUCTION. X1H 
 
 esting in many points of view ; and their man- 
 ner of making war is characteristic of African 
 customs. That aggrandizing power, like the 
 government of Russia in Europe, is making 
 rapid and gigantic strides towards an enormous 
 despotism ; and should it hereafter possess so 
 martial and enterprising a ruler as its founder, 
 Dandfodio, in the course of a very few years 
 the whole of Central and Northern, if not 
 of Western Africa, will be under the surveil- 
 lance of the restless Falatah; and the worship 
 of snakes and idols be supplanted by the fana- 
 tical tenets of Islam ism. 
 
 The history of the far-famed Borghoo-Arabian 
 lady, widow Zuma, is correct in every particu- 
 lar ; the elopement of that most bulky individual 
 will, it is trusted, be found amusing in the 
 extreme ; and the whole train of her adven- 
 tui*es her passionate fondness for white men 
 the marvel of her extraordinary plumpness 
 her excessive hospitality the splendour of 
 her retinue and domestic establishment her 
 inordinate ambition in attempting to dethrone 
 her lawful sovereign, the innocent and facetious 
 Mohammed her mournful reverse of fortune
 
 XIV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 her confinement the song of her maidens and 
 her last request, are singularly remarkable, and 
 strongly pourtray the disposition and habits of 
 an eminent African belle. 
 
 The narrative of Pasko, or rather, I should 
 say, of Abbu Beer, our Houssa interpreter, con- 
 trasted with that of the amiable and accom- 
 plished Zuma, will not be found to be altoge- 
 ther destitute of attraction, insomuch as it shows 
 the manners and superstitions of his countrymen 
 much more pleasingly than a laboured descrip- 
 tion of them would do; while the archness, 
 drollery, and dishonesty of the old scoundrel, 
 together with his warm and deep attachment to 
 the gentler sex, and his entire devotedness to 
 their service, are accurately related, as the cir- 
 cumstances which called those various passions 
 into action took place. 
 
 After the decease of Captain Pearce and Dr. 
 Morrison, when my late valued master and my- 
 self were the only Europeans left of the mission, 
 Captain Clapperton for various reasons thought 
 proper to style me his son, and the natives ever 
 after regarded that gallant officer as my father.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XV 
 
 Surrounded as we were by strange faces and 
 strange scenes, cut off from all communication 
 with civilized society, and wandering, far from 
 our native country, and all that was truly dear 
 to us, in barbarous regions, and oftentimes 
 through long dismal woods, and awful solitudes ; 
 we became linked to each other by the strongest 
 of all ties. Ours, if I may so express myself, 
 were kindred spirits; we entered into each 
 other's views, shared each other's gladness and 
 melancholy, hope and despair, and partici- 
 pated in each other's feelings and amuse- 
 ments. It was for the interest of both to do 
 so. It would not have been well for any haugh- 
 tiness or reserve to be manifested towards me 
 under such circumstances, merely because acci- 
 dent had thrown me into a lower rank in life 
 than my master ; and it would have been unfeel- 
 ing, nay unmanly, when bowed down by pain 
 and wretchedness in the heart of Africa, for a 
 British officer to refuse, for no other reason, to 
 the humble companion of his wanderings that 
 confidence and friendship which he had in some 
 measure a right to expect. Such, happily, was
 
 XVI INTRODUCTION. 
 
 not the disposition of Captain Clapperton ; the 
 difference in our respective conditions was 
 willingly levelled, as it certainly ought to have 
 been, by that gentleman ; and for my part I may 
 justly say, that my attachment for him was so 
 great that I would cheerfully have undergone 
 any privation rather than that he should have 
 been a sufferer ; or, if necessity required it, would 
 even have laid down my life with pleasure for 
 the preservation of his. 
 
 To Capt. Clapperton I owe the existence I 
 enjoy at the present moment; and for him I 
 would have sacrificed, and perhaps I did sacri- 
 fice on particular occasions, every considera- 
 tion of personal comfort or convenience. To 
 " smooth down his lonely pillow;" to mingle my 
 hopes, and fears, and distresses, with his ; and to 
 render the transition from life to eternity as 
 easy as possible, were my employments when 
 the unfortunate Captain was stretched out upon 
 his death-bed, in a dismal solitary hut in Soc- 
 catoo; and these services themselves, Heaven 
 knows, carried their own reward along with 
 them. The affectionate grasp of the hand the
 
 INTRODUCTION. XV11 
 
 trembling eye the look of approbation and 
 thankfulness expressed more eloquently and 
 feelingly than words could have done the gra- 
 titude of my heroic master and preserver for 
 my humble endeavours to serve him, when his 
 cup of pain, disappointment, and sorrow, was 
 foaming to the brim ; and the readers of my 
 " Wanderings" will excuse me for dwelling on 
 this subject in the chapter devoted to the illness 
 and decease of Capt. Clapperton, &c. At this 
 distance of time and place even, I reflect on 
 that gloomy and distressing period with emo- 
 tion ; I recall to my remembrance all that passed 
 there disease, suffering, loneliness, and death ; 
 yet do I often wish that my latter end may be as 
 gentle as was my master's ; more calm I do not 
 expect it to be less free from pain it cannot be. 
 After all that I have said on this subject, the 
 charge of having assumed too much conse- 
 quence in speaking so familiarly of Capt. Clap- 
 perton, will not surely be brought against me ; 
 yet in conversation I have heard it asserted that 
 this sin was committed in my printed journal ; 
 but the remark needs no refutation. I have not
 
 XV111 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 chosen to alter this imputed consequence in the 
 following narrative, simply because there is no 
 apparent necessity for doing so; and in this 
 opinion the generality of my countrymen will, I 
 am confident, agree with me. 
 
 My description of the savage manners and 
 horrid barbarities of the people of Badagry, at 
 the celebration of their monthly sacrifices, &c. is 
 by no means exaggerated. At present these seem 
 unknown to Englishmen ; and my reasons for not 
 relating them before are already given. I had 
 no intention of having my Journal printed, and 
 therefore did not study to render the perusal of 
 it interesting by inserting in it observations that 
 did not come strictly within the compass of the 
 plan which I had originally laid down for 
 myself. 
 
 In the composition of the following pages I 
 must acknowledge my obligations to a younger 
 brother, and (with the exception of the cus- 
 tomary revision of the printed sheets) to him 
 alone. I should feel both pleasure and pride in 
 expressing, in this place, my gratitude for even 
 a hint received from any other quarter ; but as
 
 INTRODUCTION. XIX 
 
 this has not, even in a solitary instance, been the 
 case, I have no such thanks to offer. Although 
 unused to composition, my brother devoted, 
 during the past summer, the little leisure which 
 relaxation from his daily labour afforded him, to 
 the office of copying my notes and observations, 
 and putting them into something like arrange- 
 ment. Having become impressed with my 
 thoughts, he has " turned them to shape," 
 and, entering warmly into my feelings, he has 
 depicted my emotions, even as I felt them ; and 
 the public will best discern whether they are 
 true to nature or not. 
 
 1 beg to introduce this little Work to the no- 
 tice of my countrymen with the greatest humi- 
 lity. They will not judge of it by too severe a 
 standard; they will not I am sure they will 
 not accuse me of presumption in my feeble 
 attempts to portray the manners and peculia- 
 rities of a strange people. I have done the 
 utmost to render the perusal of my Narrative 
 agreeable ; and to give the reader a correct 
 idea of the state of society in the interior of 
 Africa. It were unreasonable to expect that
 
 XX INTRODUCTION. 
 
 my limited knowledge should permit me to 
 give a learned or laboured description of re- 
 gions which had never before been visited by 
 Europeans ; yet I repeat 1 have done the best 
 my power would allow; and no one will, I 
 think, feel any disposition to question the truth 
 of this declaration. 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 TRURO, 
 October, 1829.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Since the preceding introductory re- 
 marks were written, His Majesty's Govern- 
 ment have engaged me to proceed to Fun- 
 dah, and trace the river from thence to 
 Benin ; so that before the public will be 
 put in possession of the following Nar- 
 rative, in all probability, I shall be on 
 my way to the Western Coast of Africa. 
 In this new undertaking I shall be ac- 
 companied only by my brother (John 
 Lander), whose assistance in the com- 
 position of this work I have already 
 acknowledged ; and if energy and per- 
 severance can avail us any thing, I have 
 the best reasons for believing that it will 
 prove as successful as my most sanguine 
 expectations lead me to hope that it will.
 
 XX11 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 At all events, nothing shall be wanting 
 on our parts to accomplish the object in 
 view. If we be so unfortunate as to 
 fail in the object, I may say with confi- 
 dence and without vanity, that it shall not 
 be attributed to a want of proper spirit and 
 enterprise ; since we have made the fixed 
 determination to risk every thing, even life 
 itself, towards its final accomplishment. We 
 shall endeavour to conform ourselves, as 
 nearly as possible, to the manners and ha- 
 bits of the natives ; we will not mock their 
 blind superstition, but respect it ; we will 
 not scoff at their institutions, but bow to 
 them ; we will not condemn their preju- 
 dices, but pity them. In fine, we shall do 
 all in our power to ward off suspicion as 
 to the integrity of our motives, and the 
 innocency of our intentions ; and this 
 cannot be done more effectually than by 
 mingling with the people in their ge- 
 neral amusements and diversions. Con-
 
 INTRODUCTION. XXlll 
 
 fidence in ourselves, and in them, will be 
 our best panoply ; and an English Testa- 
 ment our safest fetish. Clothed in this 
 armour, by the blessing of God, we have 
 not much to fear ; but if, by any casualty 
 or unforeseen misfortune, we perish in 
 Africa, and are seen no more, even 
 then our fate will not be more dismal 
 than that of many of our predecessors in 
 the same pursuit, whose gallant enter- 
 prising spirits have sunk into darkness, 
 without a voice to record their melan- 
 choly end. If this should be our case, our 
 countrymen may, perhaps, be moved to 
 respect our memory ; and, at all events, it 
 is some consolation to know that the gap 
 we may make in society will scarcely be 
 observed at all ; or, if observed, soon 
 filled up : 
 
 " For we to the world are like a drop of water 
 That in the ocean falls." 
 
 London, 
 Dec. 1829.
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 Portrait of Richard Lander . . . Frontispiece. 
 Pelicans feeding their young . . vol. II. p. 16 
 
 Funeral of Captain Clapperton .... 78 
 
 Fainting Scene ...... 93 
 
 Crossing the streams at Yariba . . . . 215 
 
 Heads of Natives with Tattoo marks . . 218 
 Ordeal by Poison 257 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 8Q, for Kang read Kong. 
 
 Page 156, omit the preposition " to" after " lead me." 
 
 From p. 134 to p. 69, for Soecasoo read Soccatoo. 
 
 At the head of chap. II. p. 29, for Cape Coast read Papoe.
 
 SKETCH 
 
 AUTHOR'S LIFE. 
 
 MANY allusions to my earlier history occur- 
 ring in the following pages, it may not, perhaps, 
 be deemed impertinent on my part, if I should 
 attempt to give a short and hasty sketch of my 
 life, devoted <as it has been to perpetual wander- 
 ing, and chequered by a thousand misfortunes. 
 
 My family is as ancient, I dare say, as that 
 of any upon the face of the earth, although, 
 notwithstanding the profoundest research, I 
 have been unable to trace its descent, with ge- 
 nealogical accuracy and precision, to a more
 
 2 SKETCH OF THE 
 
 remote era than the period of my grand- 
 father's nonage ; the history of all my ances- 
 tors previous to him, being either mixed with 
 fable, or involved in doubt and uncertainty. If 
 the ancient saying of the people of Cornwall, 
 that, 
 
 " By Tre, Pol, Lan, and Pen, 
 
 You may know most Cornishmen," 
 
 be entitled to credit, then undoubtedly my 
 family is of pure Cornish extraction; and I 
 would respectfully suggest that it has a double 
 claim, in the present generation, to the enviable 
 distinction of antiquity, my mother's maiden 
 name being Pew-rose, and my father's name 
 Lan-der. Thus much for my pedigree ; and I 
 have the solitary satisfaction of boasting of at 
 least one celebrated character in its humble re- 
 cords, my grandfather, by my mother's side, 
 who was a noted wrestler in his day, and lived 
 some fifty years since near the Land's End. 
 
 I am the fourth of six children, and was born 
 at Truro, in Cornwall, in 1804, on the very 
 day on which Colonel Lemon was elected Mem- 
 ber of Parliament for the Borough. Owing to
 
 AUTHOR S LIFE. 3 
 
 this striking coincidence, singular as it may seem, 
 my father, who was fond of sounding appella- 
 tions, at the simple suggestion of the doctor 
 who attended the family, added Lemon to my 
 baptismal name of Richard : an example of the 
 trivial means by which people are oftentimes 
 accommodated with an extra name. As nothing 
 remarkable occurred for the first five or six 
 years after I came into the world, I shall pass 
 them over in silence, simply observing, that 
 when yet in infancy, whilst I was in the act of 
 gazing one morning at something attached to 
 the ceiling of my father's stable, a piece of iron, 
 having a sharpened edge, fell and entered my 
 forehead ; which accident was of so serious a 
 nature that I was ill for several weeks, and nar- 
 rowly escaped with life. 
 
 My rambling inclinations began to display 
 themselves in early youth. I was never easy a 
 great while together in one place, and used to 
 be delighted to play truant and stroll from 
 town to town, and from village to village, 
 whenever I could steal an opportunity as well ; 
 as to mix in the society of boys possessing 
 E 2
 
 4 SKETCH OF THE 
 
 restless habits and inclinations similar to my 
 own. I used also to listen with unmixed atten- 
 tion to old women's tales about the manners and 
 ceremonies of the natives of distant regions of 
 the earth, and never felt greater pleasure than 
 when, dangling me on their knees, or stroking 
 down my face with their aged hands, they used 
 to say, " you will be sure to see two kingdoms, 
 Richard, for you have two crowns upon your 
 head ! " Their marvellous descriptions of mon- 
 sters existing, they affirmed, in remote lands, 
 likewise conspired to raise in me a longing to 
 be a traveller ; for the venerable matrons of my 
 native county, moving in the humbler walks of 
 life, like those of most other counties and na- 
 tions, are fond of the wonderful, and endeavour 
 to stamp a love of it in the tender mind of 
 youth with all the solemnity and earnestness of 
 age and belief. These tales, how incredible 
 soever they might have been, made a deep and 
 permanent impression on my thoughts; and 
 though so very young, I formed a resolution, 
 or ratber felt a strong and violent inclination to 
 become a-wanderer, in order that the story of my
 
 AUTHOR'S LIFE. 5 
 
 adventures might one day rival in interest those 
 to which I had listened with so devout an atten- 
 tion ; perhaps also a childish feeling of pride 
 entered my bosom as I used to say to myself: 
 " And when I shall have returned from such 
 and such a place, and seen all the strange 
 sights in them, my former companions will look 
 upon me with a mixture of wonder and admi- 
 ration, and I shall excite the envy of the other 
 boys." 
 
 Thus the first period of my life flew swiftly 
 away ; and I was no more than nine years of age, 
 as nearly as my memory, at this distance of time, 
 will allow me to guess, when owing to a series 
 of domestic misfortunes, which it would be a 
 tedious and unpleasant task here to particu- 
 larise, 1 left the paternal roof, and have ever 
 since been almost a stranger in the place of my 
 nativity. 
 
 The frequent observation of my lamented 
 mother, " Remember, my poor child, the old 
 proverb, ( a rolling stone gathers no moss,' " has 
 been entirely thrown away upon me, for be- 
 tween necessity and choice I have ever been in
 
 SKETCH OF THE 
 
 motion; and with respect to ** moss," taken in its 
 figurative signification, I have certainly, in my 
 own person, verified the truth of the homely 
 adage above alluded to, scarcely ever having 
 been able to retain a single handful in my 
 grasp for any length of time together. 
 
 At the early age of eleven years I accompa- 
 nied a mercantile gentleman to the West 
 Indies, and whilst in St. Domingo was at- 
 tacked with the fever of the country, suffering 
 so severely under its influence that my life was 
 despaired of; but, owing chiefly to the kindness 
 and attention I experienced from some bene- 
 volent and sympathizing Negro females, joined 
 to my youth and a naturally vigorous constitu- 
 tion, I recovered my wonted health, and after 
 an absence of three years returned to my native 
 country in 1818. From that period till the 
 attainment of my 19th year, I lived in the service 
 of various noblemen and gentlemen, one of whom 
 
 1 accompanied to France, and other countries on 
 the Continent ; when, hearing on my return to 
 London, that Major Colebrook, one of His 
 Majesty's Commissioners of Inquiry into the
 
 AUTHOR S LIFE. 7 
 
 State of the British Colonies, was in want of an 
 individual to proceed with him in the capacity of 
 servant, I quitted the office I then held, and 
 procured the vacant situation with little diffi- 
 culty. With this gentleman I embarked from 
 Portsmouth on board the Lady Campbell, 
 which weighed anchor on the thirteenth of 
 February, 1823, and after a stormy and ha- 
 zardous voyage of nearly five months, arrived 
 in Simmons's Bay, South Africa, on the 13th 
 of July following. During the passage our un- 
 fortunate vessel, in which were upwards of forty 
 ladies and gentlemen (passengers) with twenty 
 servants, very nearly escaped destruction no 
 less than three times. In the first instance, she 
 encountered a heavy gale on the 8th of March, 
 in which she lost her rudder, and leaked four 
 feet of water in the hold. After being buffeted 
 about by the wind and waves for four or five 
 days, her distressed condition was observed by a 
 small French brig belonging to L'Orient, which 
 towed her into that port. There she was laid 
 up for six weeks, in order that the serious 
 damage she had sustained might be repaired;
 
 SKETCH OF THE 
 
 when, on the 1st of May, she again set sail. 
 On the 10th of June following, a lady, passing 
 near the gun-room, discovered it to be on fire, 
 and immediately gave the alarm. After in- 
 credible exertions, and still greater noise, hurry, 
 bustle, and confusion, the progress of the flames 
 was arrested, and the fire finally extinguished, 
 to the no small gratification of every one on 
 board, who feared, and with justice, that from 
 the proximity of the gun-room to the powder- 
 magazine the most imminent danger was to be 
 apprehended. This was not the last fright we 
 experienced, for on the night of entering 
 Simmons's Bay the vessel unfortunately struck 
 on a rock called by seamen " The Noah's Ark," 
 but was happily lifted by the swell of the sea 
 from her perilous situation, without being ma- 
 terially damaged by the shock; and nothing 
 worthy of notice occurred till her arrival before 
 Cape Town, Cape of Good Hope, as above 
 mentioned. 
 
 After accompanying Major Colebrook in his 
 journeyings from one extremity of that im- 
 portant colony to the other, for a reason which 
 it would be superfluous in this place to adduce,
 
 AUTHOR'S LIFE. 9 
 
 I left his service, and sailing from Cape Town, 
 arrived in England in 1824. I had not been 
 many weeks in the metropolis before I accepted 
 of a situation in the establishment of a kinsman 
 to the Duke of Northumberland, where my 
 time passed away pleasantly and thoughtlessly 
 enough ; till the return of Captain Clapperton 
 and Major Denham from the interior of Africa^ 
 in the following year, again aroused my ram- 
 bling propensities, and I could not help re- 
 proaching myself for having remained so long a 
 time in a state of comparative indolence. De- 
 termined from that hour to embrace the first 
 favourable chance of once more quitting my 
 native shores, to whichever part of the globe 
 fate or fortune might destine me, I waited im- 
 patiently for something to take place in fur- 
 therance of the object I had most at heart; 
 and an opportunity soon offered itself that pro- 
 mised to gratify my fondest and warmest 
 inclinations, as well as amply to satisfy the inor- 
 dinate desire I could not suppress of visiting 
 foreign countries. 
 
 B5
 
 10 SKETCH OF THE 
 
 Having heard that it was the intention of the 
 British Government to send out another expe- 
 dition for the purpose of exploring the yet un- 
 discovered parts of central Africa, and of endea- 
 vouring to ascertain the source, progress, and 
 termination, of the myterious Niger; and the 
 attempt coinciding exactly with my long-che- 
 rished wishes, I instantly waited upon the late 
 Captain Clapperton, who I was told was to be 
 placed at its head, and expressed to that brave 
 and spirited officer the great eagerness I felt to 
 become a party, however humble, to the novel 
 and hazardous undertaking into which he was 
 about to enter. The Captain listened to m e 
 with attention, and after I had answered a few 
 interrogations, willingly engaged me to be his 
 confidential servant. In this interview the keen, 
 penetrating eye of the African traveller, did not 
 escape my observation ; and by its fire, energy, 
 and quickness, denoted, in my own opinion at 
 least, the very soul of enterprize and adventure. 
 
 Having made the necessary arrangements, I 
 entered with a light heart upon my new duties, 
 and enjoyed the thoughts of following the bias
 
 AUTHOR'S LIFE. 11 
 
 of ray own inclination with as great a zest as if 
 the path of my future life had been strewed with 
 flowers. 
 
 I had not, however, adopted this line of con- 
 duct without deep reflection on the difficulties 
 that would, in all probability, accompany it. 
 The destruction that had overwhelmed former 
 travellers, engaged in the same pursuit, was by 
 no means unfamiliar to me ; and the melancholy 
 story of Mungo Park and his companions in 
 misfortune, in particular, had often crossed my 
 thoughts. I felt a degree of shuddering sym- 
 pathy for those enterprizing individuals, (height- 
 ened perhaps by the cloud of darkness in which 
 their latter end was shrouded,) which no ficti- 
 tious tale of woe had been ever able to excite in 
 my bosom ; yet even this failed in staggering my 
 resolution, or overcoming my early and deeply- 
 rooted prejudices. 
 
 There was a charm in the very sound of 
 Africa, that always made my heart flutter on 
 hearing it mentioned: whilst its boundless de- 
 serts of sand ; the awful obscurity in which many 
 of the interior regions were enveloped; the
 
 12 SKETCH OF THE 
 
 strange and wild aspect of countries that had 
 never been trodden by the foot of a European, 
 and even the very failure of all former under- 
 takings to explore its hidden wonders, united to 
 strengthen the determination I had come to, of 
 embracing the earliest opportunity of pene- 
 trating into the interior of that immense Con- 
 tinent. 
 
 In vain my London acquaintances urged 
 upon me the risk 1 should incur of finding a 
 grave in Africa ; and equally vain were the 
 kind representations of a medical gentleman of 
 the metropolis, who painted to me in lively 
 colours the imminent danger to which my life 
 would be exposed, by reason of my youth, inex- 
 perience, and habit of body. 1 disregarded all 
 the counsel that the world could give me, and 
 perhaps secretly depended on the strength of 
 an unimpaired constitution to support me in 
 sickness, and bring me out of every difficulty; 
 so prone are we to indulge the belief that there 
 is a something different, a latent excellence 
 within us, which does not belong to the persons
 
 AUTHOR'S LIFE. 13 
 
 or characters of the rest of the world ; and so 
 just is the observation of the poet, that 
 
 " AH men think all men mortal but themselves." 
 
 As soon as my relatives in Cornwall were 
 made acquainted with the step I was about to 
 take, they expressed the deepest concern and 
 sorrow, and sent me numbers of letters, couched 
 in the simple and affectionate language of 
 nature, expressive of their feelings, and en- 
 deavouring to dissuade me from proceeding to 
 a region they all so greatly and justly dreaded. 
 George Croker Fox, Esq. a highly respectable 
 gentleman, residing at Grove Hill, near Fal- 
 mouth, with the spirit of amiable benevolence by 
 which he is so peculiarly distinguished, also ex- 
 erted himself in the same object, promising that 
 if my determination to leave England was fixed, 
 rather than that 1 should expose myself to the 
 dangers to be apprehended from African explo- 
 ration, he would procure me a more lucrative 
 situation in one of the South American republics. 
 But no inducement under the sun could make 
 me swerve, even in thought, from the line of
 
 14- SKETCH OF THE AUTHOR'S LIFE. 
 
 duty I had laid down for myself; or cool the 
 ardour that warned me to attempt, at least, the 
 accomplishment of the great object towards 
 which my earliest thoughts had been intently 
 directed. Indeed, I had already gone too far to 
 recede; and leaving the metropolis with Captain 
 Clapperton, I arrived at Portsmouth, in order 
 to embark in the Brazen sloop of war, Captain 
 Willis, on the 24th of August, 1825, being then 
 in the 2 1st year of my age. 
 
 ?it 
 
 J a-iiwo 
 t /' nil jitfiJi u 
 
 jot w<mfebjKM iiww wwl&avsk gtbdtt iitti 
 
 -.T rJJOOiA*
 
 :. - , ,- ,-j.uJH.' 
 ."l. ; SOOO 'O 
 
 !is JK3JhlB .^msMJB 01 
 
 WANDERINGS 
 
 IN 
 
 AFRICA. 
 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 List of the Gentlemen and others engaged in the Mission The 
 Brazen sails from Portsmouth Touches at the Madeiras, Ca- 
 naries, and Cape de Verd Islands Pursues and overtakes a 
 French slave ship Falls in with H. M.S. Swinger Arrives 
 and anchors at Sierra Leone The Author's first illness. 
 
 ON arriving at Portsmouth with Captain 
 Clapperton, I found the following gentlemen, 
 his associates in the mission, waiting for him : 
 Captain Pearce, R. N. an amiable individual, 
 but whose frame was much too delicate for the 
 arduous task he had undertaken ; Dr. Morrison, 
 a navy surgeon ; and Dr. Dickson, a Scotch- 
 man, who had served as a surgeon for a long pe-
 
 16 TENERIFFE. 
 
 riod in the West Indies. These were attended 
 by Columbus, a West Indian mulatto, who 
 had accompanied Major Denham in the previ- 
 ous journey; Pasko, a black, native of Haussa ; 
 and myself. 
 
 We embarked on the 27th of August, 1825 ; 
 and, a light breeze springing up from the north- 
 east, the vessel got under weigh and made sail, 
 the shores of England gradually lessening 
 from our view. After touching at Porto Santo, 
 the least of the Madeiras, on the 8th Septem- 
 ber, where the Gentlemen of the Mission 
 landed and obtained various specimens of plants 
 and minerals, the vessel dropped anchor at Santa 
 Cruz, Teneriffe, on the 13th of the same month. 
 Next day, Captain Clapperton and his coadju- 
 tors, accompanied by three officers of the Bra- 
 zen, went on shore to make an excursion to the 
 Peak ; but my master being taken suddenly un- 
 well on the road from Santa Cruz, was obliged 
 to remain at Oratavia, a fine but irregularly 
 built town, situated at the base of a cluster of 
 mountains, out of which rises the celebrated 
 Peak, from which it is distant about four or
 
 ST. ANTON1A. 17 
 
 five miles. The travellers having accomplished 
 the object of their jaunt, came back with mine- 
 rals, &c. complaining sadly of fatigue. On the 
 16th, we returned to Santa Cruz, the rugged 
 nature of the roads, together with the stubborn 
 disposition of the asses with which we were 
 accommodated, being in great measure over- 
 looked by the mirthful humour and innocent 
 jocularity of our native guides, who enlivened 
 us by singing and playing on guitars nearly the 
 whole of the way to the capital, frequently in- 
 terrupting themselves by shouting " Long live 
 the English ! " The inhabitants were mostly 
 employed in gathering in the grapes, with which 
 the island abounds ; and we were met on the 
 road by great numbers of them with mules and 
 asses loaded with this delicious fruit, returning 
 to their respective habitations. 
 
 On the 16th the Brazen again set sail with a 
 fair wind ; and on the 24th following arrived at 
 St. Antonia, one of the Cape de Verd islands, 
 where Captain Clapperton landed, as on former 
 occasions, and obtained minerals, &c. from its 
 lofty mountains. The vessel weighed anchor
 
 18 SLAVE SHIPS. 
 
 the same evening, and nothing requiring parti- 
 cular observation occurred for several days, the 
 wind continuing tolerably fair, but squally. 
 
 On the 4th of October, a small schooner came 
 in sight, and supposing she had slaves on board, 
 the Brazen chased and overtook her. She 
 proved, however, to be a Russian merchant 
 vessel, bound for Pernambuco, and was of 
 course suffered to proceed on her voyage as soon 
 as the error was discovered. On the 8th of the 
 same month another sail was descried, and sus- 
 pecting also that she was engaged in the nefari- 
 ous traffic in slaves, we pursued and boarded her. 
 The suspicions were confirmed on discovering 
 196 human beings in this French schooner 
 (which was bound for St. Domingo) chained 
 together in couples, and literally crammed be- 
 tween decks, which being barely three feet in 
 height the slaves were obliged to remain in a 
 sitting posture whilst they stayed on board. So 
 strong and disagreeable an odour proceeded 
 from the confined place in which these poor 
 creatures were huddled, that the air was tainted
 
 SIERRA LEONE. 19 
 
 with it, and I hastened on board the Brazen as 
 fast as I could; shortly after which the French 
 vessel proceeded with her living cargo to the 
 place of her destination. 
 
 On the 19th the Brazen fell in with H.M. 
 ship Swinger, on a cruise. This vessel had lost 
 nineteen men with fever, and was short of pro- 
 visions and water. After relieving her wants, 
 and sending a doctor on board, we continued 
 our course with a fair light breeze, and on the 
 21st entered the river of Sierra Leone. 
 
 The day after our arrival I went on shore, 
 and sauntered alone through Free Town, visiting 
 the church and other public buildings. I was 
 grieved to see that sacred edifice converted into 
 a market-place, and buyers and sellers inde- 
 cently disputing and wrangling in the temple of 
 God. The colony was rather sickly, and the great 
 number of deaths which had recently taken 
 place sufficiently attested the extreme unhealthi- 
 ness of that immense " charnel-house." The 
 country in the neighbourhood of the town is 
 rich and fertile, producing in great abundance
 
 20 SIERRA LEONE. 
 
 many kinds of fruits and vegetables. West 
 Indian, and other tropical productions are cul- 
 tivated with success, and to a great extent, on 
 the banks of the river. Cattle and poultry, 
 which are of inferior size and description, are 
 excessively scarce and dear ; but the inhabitants 
 do not seem to feel much interested in the im- 
 provement of the breed of their domestic 
 animals. The grass in the colony, though ap- 
 parently rich and luxuriant, contains in reality 
 but little nutriment ; and to this cause, more than 
 to any other, the sorry condition of the cattle is 
 attributable. 
 
 The Kroomen, great numbers of whom re- 
 side at Sierra Leone, are a fine athletic people ; 
 active, clean, and industrious. They have a vil- 
 lage at no great distance from Free Town, which 
 I visited. It consists of a great number of huts, 
 most of which have a little meadow-land, or gar- 
 den, attached to them ; but a very small portion 
 of the soil is cultivated in its vicinity, the male 
 inhabitants being generally employed by the 
 masters of European vessels visiting Sierra
 
 SIERRA LEONE. 21 
 
 Leone, who find them extremely serviceable. 
 Notwithstanding their intercourse with the 
 English and other European nations, which 
 has been preserved for so long a period, the 
 Kroomen still retain their native costume, which 
 consists simply of a piece of cotton cloth, tied 
 carelessly round the waist, and extending to the 
 knees. Almost the whole of them have obtained 
 a smattering of the English tongue, in which 
 they pride themselves ; whilst many of the more 
 intelligent can converse in it with tolerable flu- 
 ency. Upwards of twenty different languages, 
 it is said, are spoken by the mixed population of 
 the colony, who have been principally captured 
 from the slave vessels of the Portuguese or Spa- 
 niards, and have been brought from many of the 
 interior countries. 
 
 On the 23d I again went on shore with my 
 gun, to shoot in a savannah at a short distance 
 from the town, in which I remained a great 
 part of the day, amongst high coarse grass and 
 thick jungle, indiscreetly exposing my head to 
 the scorching rays of a vertical sun ; in conse-
 
 22 SLAVE SHIPS. 
 
 quence of which I was attacked in the evening 
 with giddiness of the head, and other symptoms 
 of fever; but having been bled copiously, and 
 having taken proper medicine, the progress of 
 the disease was for the time arrested. My illness, 
 which was not particularly severe, was of short 
 duration, and I fondly expected that this was but 
 the seasonitiff every European should be pre- 
 pared to encounter on visiting tropical countries. 
 Having taken in her supplies of fresh water 
 and provisions, the Brazen got under weigh on 
 the 27 th of October, and made sail for Cape 
 Coast, with a fresh breeze from the south-east. 
 On the following day a thunder-storm arose, 
 accompanied by heavy and continued rain and 
 vivid flashes of lightning, which lasted for seve- 
 ral hours ; and on the 2d of November a sail 
 being perceived at some distance, the ship gave 
 her chase, and on coming up with her, she 
 proved to be the Fortune, a Spanish schooner, 
 with thirty-five slaves only on board, not having 
 then received her full complement. The vessel 
 was immediately captured, and sent back to 
 Sierra Leone. Next day another sail was dis-
 
 KING OF THE KROOMEN. 23 
 
 covered, and being overtaken, was found to be 
 a French brig from Martinique, waiting for a 
 cargo of human beings. 
 
 On the 5th the natives came out to meet the 
 Brazen in canoes, with yams, plantains, bana- 
 nas, cassada, and other productions of the 
 country, which they bartered for tobacco, that 
 article being in great request with them. Their 
 canoes were lightly and ingeniously constructed, 
 and propelled through the water with singular 
 swiftness and dexterity, the rowers performing 
 their laborious task in a kneeling posture. They 
 were completely destitute of clothing of any 
 kind. 
 
 On the 7th we were honored with a visit 
 from the Kroo king, who is a jet black of goodly 
 stature, and of simple but prepossessing man- 
 ners. On his head the sable monarch had a 
 European hat, and across his loins was fastened 
 a plain piece of cotton cloth purchased from the 
 English. He wore a necklace of gris-gris 
 (charms or amulets) made of leather, in the 
 merits of which he seemed to repose implicit 
 confidence, believing himself the most fortunate
 
 24 AFRICAN VISITORS. 
 
 of men in having it in his possession; and as 
 long as that was the case, he asserted, neither 
 demon nor human being could in any wise 
 injure him. 
 
 One of his majesty's attendants, as blindly 
 superstitious as his sovereign, to put the virtues 
 of his amulet to the test, entreated me several 
 times to discharge a musket loaded with ball 
 ' at him, at the distance of only a few yards, 
 which, when I refused to do, he appeared to be 
 considerably chagrined and disappointed, and 
 went away muttering that the English were the 
 most uncivil people in the world. 
 
 The following day, although the ship was at 
 the distance of several miles from the shore, 
 others of the natives came alongside, differing 
 but little in external appearance from their 
 neighbours who had visited us on the former 
 occasions : but in addition to their other orna- 
 ments, they wore iron rings round the neck, 
 with little bells of the same metal appended, 
 which, on the slightest movement of the wearer, 
 made a jingling noise not unlike bells hung to 
 the necks of waggon-horses in England. The
 
 THE KROOMEN. 25 
 
 Cape Palmas king, accompanied by a great 
 number of his subjects, also condescended to 
 come on board on the 9th. He is a powerful 
 athletic man, having a bold expression of coun- 
 tenance, but of gentle and social habits, and he 
 was graciously pleased to converse freely with any 
 one on deck, who felt disposed, or had patience 
 enough to listen to his remarks. 
 
 There was this peculiarity in the appearance 
 of his majesty's followers: their heads were 
 shaved either partially or wholly, and the hair 
 of those that had any being cut into a thousand 
 fantastic modes and forms, looked exceedingly 
 grotesque. Many of the tribes on the coast, 
 indeed, appear to devote a large portion of their 
 time to dressing and ornamenting their hair, 
 which in some districts is plaited and braided 
 with much care, and peculiar taste and neatness. 
 Others friz out the hair like the natives of the 
 Tonga islands, and as it is anointed with a 
 species of red clay, softened with palm-oil, which 
 is found in great abundance on the coast, it 
 adds greatly to the ferocity of their appearance. 
 
 The Brazen continued her course with a 
 
 VOL. i. c
 
 26 CAPE COAST. 
 
 tolerably fair wind but heavy showers, and hav- 
 ing passed several towns and villages, the inha- 
 bitants of some of which occasionally visited her 
 in canoes, arrived at Cape Coast on the 14th, at 
 one p.m. 
 
 Cape Coast castle is a strongly-built stone 
 fortification, capable of containing within its 
 walls the whole of the population of the town it 
 defends; the habitations of which are con- 
 structed in much the same style as those with 
 which the whole line of coast is thickly studded; 
 being built of earth, and thatched with rushes, 
 interlaced with palm-leaves. 
 
 A great number of people have settled in the 
 town from the interior countries; but by far the 
 major part of the inhabitants are Fantees, who 
 have voluntarily placed themselves under the pro- 
 tection of the British fortress, in order the more 
 effectually to secure to themselves the blessings 
 of peace, and preserve their property from the 
 rapacity of their more restless countrymen, and 
 the neighbouring nations. 
 
 Cleanliness is by no means a characteristic of 
 the Fantees at Cape Coast, animal and vegeta- 
 ble substances being allowed to accumulate and
 
 CAPE COAST. 27 
 
 putrify in the streets, from which is exhaled so 
 noxious an effluvium, that the air, impregnated 
 with it, is rendered extremely insalubrious, par- 
 ticularly to Europeans. 
 
 It is perhaps a fortunate circumstance, that 
 vultures, attracted by the intolerable odour, 
 resort thither in vast numbers, voraciously de- 
 vouring the filth which the indolent inhabitants 
 are either too lazy or too ignorant to remove ; 
 for they cannot be pei'suaded that disease of any 
 kind is engendered by such means. If this had 
 not been the case, it would be a miracle indeed 
 that Europeans should exist in the town many 
 weeks ; and even the Africans themselves, in all 
 likelihood, would speedily fall victims to pesti- 
 lential disorders. 
 
 Horned cattle are not less scarce, and yet more 
 diminutive, than at Sierra Leone, and their 
 flesh is of the worst possible quality. Horses, 
 for some reason, are no where to be found 
 on the Gold Coast, nor are any beasts of bur- 
 den whatever to be met with in the neighbour- 
 hood of the Castle ; loads of every description 
 being carried on men's heads, and in ham- 
 c2
 
 <so CAPE COAST. 
 
 mocks fastened to long poles, which are borne 
 by two persons. 
 
 The market is rather scantily supplied with 
 Guinea-corn, maize, yams, sweet cassada, &c. 
 although the soil is amazingly rich, yielding 
 abundantly all the necessaries of life. Notwith- 
 standing its fertility, however, cultivation is car- 
 ried on to a very inconsiderable extent, and the 
 surrounding country is still thickly wooded.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 The ship sails again Capture of a Spanish schooner with Slaves 
 The natives of the coast come on board Vessel anchors at 
 Cape Coast Sails from thence and captures another slave 
 vessel Arrives at Whydah, where Mr. Dickson lands His 
 progress through the country and reported death The Brazen 
 comes to an anchor in Badagry Roads The Gentlemen of 
 the Mission give a last farewell to the officers on board, and 
 proceed on shore. 
 
 THE Brazen sailed from Cape Coast on the 
 17th, and on the following day pursued a fine 
 Spanish brigantine, which was waiting to receive 
 a cargo of slaves from the coast. After a short 
 chase the vessel was captured, and taken to 
 Accra the same evening. There were only five 
 or six Europeans at Accra ; but the town, as at 
 Cape Coast, is chiefly inhabited by Fantees, and 
 is very populous. We had an opportunity of 
 seeing the king of the Fantee nation during our 
 short stay. His majesty, dressed in a shabby
 
 30 KING OF THE FANTEES. 
 
 uniform of an English military officer, was sup- 
 ported on the shoulders of four men, and pa- 
 raded through the town, preceded and followed 
 by a number of people, who, by clapping of 
 hands, and beating on tom-toms ! created a loud 
 and most discordant noise, which might have 
 been heard at a considerable distance from the 
 spot. 
 
 On the 20th the Brazen departed with her 
 prize from Accra, and came to an anchor at 
 Papoe the day after. From that place the bri- 
 gantine was to have taken in her cargo, and the 
 slaves selected were confined in the town. As 
 soon as the officers landed from the ship, they 
 were demanded, but the king, obstinately re- 
 fusing at first to deliver them up, was told 
 that unless they were immediately produced, 
 his town would be cannonaded, he himself and 
 his son taken prisoners, and the slaves seized by 
 main force ; on which the royal personage 
 seemed to pay a little more respect to the im- 
 perious summons of the Englishmen ; and the 
 unfortunate people were shortly after ordered 
 to be liberated. These slaves at length made their
 
 MISERIES OF THE SLAVES. 31 
 
 appearance, and exhibited a long line of melan- 
 choly faces and emaciated frames, wasted by dis- 
 ease and close confinement, and by having suffered 
 dreadfully from scantiness of food, and the im- 
 pure air of their prison-house. They were 23 1 in 
 number, men, women, and children, in a com- 
 plete state of nudity, and heavily manacled; 
 several of them were lamed by the weight of their 
 irons, and their skin sadly excoriated from the 
 same cause. All of them appeared in the deep- 
 est misery, and one little boy in particular was 
 greatly distressed, and cried much and bitterly. 
 He had been seized whilst at play with his 
 young companions from before the threshhold 
 of his parents' hut, and immediately driven to 
 Papoe with his thoughtless playmates. The 
 poor things evinced the liveliest joy on being 
 made acquainted with the favorable turn in their 
 affairs, and the gratitude they displayed to their 
 deliverers was natural and sincere. Arrange- 
 ments were speedily made for their accommoda- 
 tion on board the prize ; and that vessel, which 
 was to have borne them to perpetual slavery in 
 in a remote region, was employed to convey
 
 32 TOWN OF WHYDAH. 
 
 them to hundreds of their countrymen at Sierra 
 Leone 
 
 Papoe lies close to the sea, and consists of an 
 assemblage of irregularly-built mud huts; a num- 
 ber of lofty cocoa-trees growing in its immedi- 
 ate vicinity conducing greatly to the apparent 
 freshness and pleasantness of the place. Slavery 
 is carried on to an alarming extent by the inha- 
 bitants, every oneof whom is at all times prepared 
 to accompany a slave expedition. They are said 
 to be more ferocious in their manners than 
 most tribes on the coast ; and if one may be 
 allowed to judge from the savage expression of 
 their countenances, the people are eminently en- 
 titled to this character. The aspect of the coun- 
 try presents the same unvaried uniformity of 
 thick forests and extensive savannas, intersected 
 with rich plains, that is everywhere observable 
 from the sea. 
 
 The brigantine haing been sent to Sierra Leone 
 with the emancipated slaves, the Brazen sailed 
 from Papoe on the morning of the 23d, and 
 arrived at Whydah the same evening. Seven 
 sail were at anchor off the coast fronting the
 
 PARTING SCENE. 33 
 
 town, the greater part of which were supposed 
 to be waiting for a favourable opportunity to 
 embark slaves. Captain Clapperton and Dr. 
 Morrison landed on the following morning, and 
 were conveyed in hammocks to the town of 
 Whydah, situated about two English miles from 
 the beach. After making observations, and ob- 
 taining the information they sought, the gentle- 
 men returned the same evening to the ship. 
 
 On the 25th Dr. Dickson landed to proceed 
 into the interior. The parting interview be- 
 tween Capt. Clapperton and the warm-hearted 
 Doctor was singularly tender and pathetic. 
 The latter gentleman entertained a presenti- 
 ment that they should never meet again, and his 
 endeavours to suppress or disguise his emotion 
 entirely failed in their effect. " Study the cha- 
 racter of the natives well," said the Captain to 
 Dr. Dickson, as he yet lingered on the deck ; 
 "respect their institutions, and be kind to them 
 on all occasions ; for 'tis on paying proper re- 
 spect to these rules, and these only, that you 
 must ground your hope of being successful in 
 your progress through the country; and the 
 c5
 
 34 PARTING SCENE. 
 
 conduct of the people to you will be guided 
 solely by your behaviour towards them. Set a 
 guard over your temper, my dear Dickson, and 
 never let it lead you into error." " We meet 
 at Jennah, then," said the Doctor, with an in- 
 quiring eye, and anxious, half-doubting look : 
 " We meet at Jennah," answered Captain Clap- 
 perton, solemnly. " Once more adieu, my dear 
 Dickson, and may God bless and protect you." 
 The Doctor then tore himself from the deck, 
 and we saw him no more. 
 
 Doctor Dickson was met at Whydah by M. 
 de Souza, a Portuguese, and Mr. James, an 
 Englishman, who accompanied him to Abomey, 
 the capital of Dahomy, where he was received 
 both by the king and his subjects with a hearty 
 welcome, and every mark of kindness and 
 respect. He was attacked with fever shortly 
 after his arrival in that metropolis; but on 
 his recovery proceeded in high spirits, with 
 an escort of one hundred men, furnished as a 
 protection by his Dahoman majesty, to Shar, 
 that monarch's authority extending no further 
 in that direction.
 
 DEATH OF DR. DICKSON. 35 
 
 On my return from the interior I was told by a 
 person at Jennah, that Dr. Dickson, having 
 proceeded about two days' journey into the 
 country from Shar, (where he had arrived in 
 safety,) for some reason, which was not correctly 
 explained, had a serious misunderstanding with 
 a party of the natives, and his life being threat- 
 ened by its chief, he was so violently exaspe- 
 rated that he attempted to throttle that indivi- 
 dual; which being observed by his followers, 
 they fell upon the unfortunate doctor, over- 
 came, and slew him.* Thus this gentleman 
 was the first of the mission that fell a victim to 
 the cause of African research. 
 
 On the 26th the ship departed from Why- 
 dah, and came to an anchor in Badagry Roads 
 on the 28th. 
 
 The appearance of the coast from Sierra 
 Leone to Badagry is, generally speaking, singu- 
 larly beautiful and attractive. The soil differs 
 
 * Mr. James was attacked with dysentery on his journey to 
 Aboraey, but lived to return to Whydah, where he died. It was 
 said that he was assassinated by M.de Souza, but this report was 
 not authenticated.
 
 36 BEAUTIFUL SCENERY. 
 
 in various districts, but consists chiefly of a rich 
 reddish mould, intermixed with sand, which 
 renders it wonderfully fertile. It yields in the 
 greatest abundance most, if not all, of the ne- 
 cessaries of life, and many of its luxuries ; and 
 millet, Indian corn, yams, sweet potatoes, cassa- 
 da, plantains, the banana, &c. are cultivated to 
 a considerable extent by the natives. Trees in 
 great number and variety, of magnificent dimen- 
 sions and luxuriant foliage, adorn the face of 
 the country, the apparent beauty of which is in- 
 finitely heightened by the number of small vil- 
 lages, embellished with lovely trees, dotting the 
 borders of the sea ; amongst which the stately 
 palm, both on account of the peculiarity and 
 elegance of its form, must ever hold a distin- 
 guished place. Thick forests are also spread 
 over the landscape, the gloomy shade of which, 
 contrasted with the smiling verdure of cultivated 
 plains, pleasantly studded with clumps of cocoa 
 and other trees, and enlightened by a brilliant 
 sun, offers a variegated and unrivalled picture 
 of rural beauty, which the eye feasts upon with 
 peculiar pleasure.
 
 AFRICAN HABITS. 37 
 
 It is melancholy to reflect, however, that a 
 great portion of this delightful region is peopled 
 with a race of savages and semi-barbarians, 
 speaking a variety of languages, but all having 
 nearly the same customs, and engaged in perpe- 
 tual broils amongst each other. The manners 
 and ceremonies of the people are indeed the 
 same, essentially, as they were when the coast 
 was first discovered by the Portuguese in the 
 fifteenth century ; neither time, nor their fami- 
 liar intercourse with Europeans for so many 
 ages, having apparently in the slightest degree 
 either enlightened their minds, or out-rooted 
 their unmeaning superstitions, which still retain 
 all their original freshness and absurdity. It is 
 much to be feared that, instead of copying and 
 imbibing the virtues of their white visitants, they 
 have only adopted their most odious vices. In- 
 toxication, which in all probability was un- 
 known, or at most but partially indulged in, by 
 the aboriginal inhabitants, is followed to a 
 beastly excess at the present time, and is the 
 parent of a thousand irregularities. 
 
 Slavery, by far the most appalling evil that
 
 38 AFRICAN HABITS. 
 
 can befal the human race, is carried on in par- 
 ticular districts to a deplorable extent, and 
 spreads like a pestilence through the country. 
 It is impossible to contemplate this striking 
 and peculiar feature in the African habits, with- 
 out experiencing the most lively emotions of 
 surprise and sorrow. Jt has insinuated itself so 
 deeply into the very life and spirit of the laws 
 and institutions of the people, that the period 
 seems remote indeed when it may fairly be 
 presumed it will be wholly eradicated from 
 them. It has also produced the most baleful 
 effects, causing anarchy, injustice, and oppres- 
 sion to reign in Africa, and exciting nation to 
 rise up against nation, and man against man ; 
 it has damped all ardour for improvement, in the 
 absence of every stimulus to industry and exer- 
 tion, and infinitely sunk the character of the 
 people in the eyes of the rest of the world ; it 
 has covered the face of the country with desola- 
 tion, and filled the minds of its sorrowing inha- 
 bitants with mourning, lamentation, and woe: 
 but above all, it has confirmed them in the dark- 
 est and most shameful ignorance, and rivetted
 
 PARTING NEAR BADAGRY. 39 
 
 them more closely than ever in the bonds of a 
 ridiculous and abominable superstition, to the 
 utter exclusion of a more amiable and rational 
 belief. All these evils, and many others, has 
 slavery accomplished ; in return for which the 
 Europeans, for whose benefit, and by whose 
 connivance and encouragement it has flourished 
 so extensively, have given to the heartless natives 
 but ardent and intoxicating spirits, tawdry silk 
 dresses, and paltry necklaces of beads ! 
 
 The day after the arrival of the Brazen at 
 Badagry (the 29th of November), the gentle- 
 men of the mission, and the officers of the ship, 
 assembled on the quarter-deck to take a final 
 farewell of each other ; and some of the latter 
 were deeply affected, as with a faltering voice 
 and agitated manner they breathed their hopes 
 that success might attend the perilous under- 
 taking to which their enterprising friends had so 
 willingly devoted themselves. There was some- 
 thing so moving in the pathetic spectacle of 
 Englishmen parting under a strong persuasion, 
 almost amounting to a conviction, of meeting no 
 more in this world ; in seeing the manly resolu-
 
 40 PARTING NEAR BADAGRY. 
 
 tion and stubborn indifference of British officers 
 combating with the tenderer and more amiable 
 feelings of human nature, that I myself could 
 with difficulty stifle my emotion ; and to dispel 
 the gloom which hung upon my mind, I bade the 
 officers a hasty and respectful adieu, and shak- 
 ing hands with many of the honest seamen on 
 deck, I sprang into a canoe that lay alongside 
 the Brazen ; and as two of the natives were row- 
 ing it towards the shore, I took the opportunity 
 of playing " Over the hills and far away," on a 
 small bugle horn which I had brought with me. 
 This elicited the admiration of the sailors of the 
 ship, and I landed amidst the hearty cheers and 
 acclamations of them all. 
 
 Shortly afterwards Captains Clapperton and 
 Pearce, and Dr. Morrison, with Pasko and 
 Dawson,* also landed ; but Columbus the mu- 
 latto, who had been ill almost from the period 
 of his leaving England, was too weak to accom- 
 pany them. 
 
 * George Dawson, an English seaman, was engaged at Bada- 
 gry, as servant to Dr. Morrison, and accompanied that gentleman 
 as far as Engua, where he died.
 
 BOAT-ACCIDENT. 41 
 
 The landing was rendered extremely dan- 
 gerous by reason of a tremendous surf, which 
 rolled violently, and to a great height, for many 
 miles along the coast, and the canoe in which 
 Mr. Houtson (an English merchant, who was 
 taken on board at Whydah, for the purpose of 
 accompanying the mission,) was conveyed from 
 the Brazen, with astronomical instruments, &c. 
 was swamped when at some distance from the 
 beach. This accident had nearly cost that gen- 
 tleman his life ; for after being tossed about on 
 the foam and waves for a few minutes, his 
 strength utterly forsook him, and he ceased to 
 struggle with the waters. In this perilous state 
 he was observed by two of the blacks who had 
 been with him in the ill-fated canoe; and, at the 
 imminent risk of their own lives, the men suc- 
 ceeded in conveying Mr. Houtson, although to- 
 tally insensible, to the shore, where proper re- 
 medies having been administered, he shortly 
 afterwards recovered. The natives subsequently 
 dived after the instruments, 8cc. and were for- 
 tunate enough to regain the whole, although
 
 42 SINGULAR CANOES. 
 
 being seriously damaged by the water, many of 
 them were of little, if any, use afterwards. 
 
 Neither an English boat, nor a canoe of the 
 ordinary form, can possibly live, even a single 
 minute, in this dreadful surf; and the natives 
 have canoes of singular construction, and ex- 
 ceedingly strong, made purposely to brave its 
 violence ; yet, as the preceding casualty clearly 
 shows, even these are insufficient to preserve the 
 passenger from the danger apprehended. The 
 canoes here spoken are of immense size and 
 thickness, and manned by nineteen naked men, 
 who are well skilled in the art of rowing. On 
 every occasion a Fetish-man, covered from head 
 to foot with gris-gris, stands in the bow in- 
 voking the " Spirit of the Waters" to be propiti- 
 ous, and quell the ragingof the sea. He continues 
 alternately watching the motion of the billows 
 and praying in a low mournful tone till the boat 
 reaches the shore or the vessel, when thanks 
 are immediately returned to the water-divinity. 
 When he fancies his petition has been heard, 
 the Fetish-man, catching a favourable opportu-
 
 COLUMBUS, THE MULATTO. 43 
 
 nity, suddenly claps his hands in a transport, 
 and exclaims, with violent gesticulation and 
 wildness of manner, " i yaw, i yaw ! " (now is 
 the time, now is the time,) which inspires his 
 countrymen in the canoe with fresh energy, and 
 dashing their paddles into the water, they propel 
 their enormous bark through the foamy waves 
 with the swiftness of lightning. 
 
 I must own, I was by no means sorry that 
 Columbus did not proceed with us ; he was a 
 man of strong and easily excited passions, and 
 was besides malicious and revengefuL He used 
 to take offence at the most trifling accident in 
 the world, and with oaths and bitter impreca- 
 tions, curse the individual whom he conceived 
 had been the author of it, vowing at the same 
 time to be revenged. He frequently declared, 
 during the voyage, that he himself would be the 
 solitary survivor of the party : all the others, he 
 affirmed, would die before they had been in the 
 country many weeks, and he should have the 
 pleasure of returning alone; nevertheless he 
 was himself the very first victim to the effects 
 of that climate which he had proudly boasted
 
 44 , COLUMBUS, THE MULATTO. 
 
 could not be prejudicial to him, for being sub- 
 sequently landed at Whydah, and overtaking 
 Dr. Dickson at Abomey, he proceeded with that 
 gentleman on the road to Shar, but being at- 
 tacked with fever, expired, I have been informed, 
 before they had reached that place. 
 
 A day or two previously to our leaving the 
 ship, I had by some means or other unintention- 
 ally offended Columbus ; the next time he saw 
 me, he exclaimed, grinning horribly, in a tone 
 and gesture which could not be mistaken, and 
 which I shall not easily forget, " I shall one day 
 have the pleasure of seeing you parching with 
 thirst on the back of a camel ; and rather than 
 
 give you one drop of water by you shall 
 
 perish there ; that will be my revenge ! "
 
 45 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 "The Travellers reach Badagry, and leave that city on the 7th of 
 December Dr. Morrison's illness Arrival at Latoo Captain 
 Pearce and the Author attacked with fever Enter Jannah 
 Continued and alarming illness of the party Their progress 
 Dr. Morrison returns to Jannah. 
 
 AT the distance of about half a mile from the 
 beach we came to a small creek, near the mouth 
 of which was a solitary fetish-hut, ornamented 
 in front with a species of small shining stone, 
 which abounds in the country. Near this sacred 
 spot were deposited several bundles of wood, 
 and various articles of earthenware of rude ma- 
 nufacture ; but not a single individual could any 
 where be seen. In such reverence are these 
 pagan temples held by the natives, that pro- 
 perty, how valuable soever it may be, placed 
 within a certain distance of them, is considered 
 as being under the special protection of their
 
 46 KING ADOLEE. 
 
 gods ; in consequence of which, though it may 
 remain unclaimed for any length of time, it is 
 rarely known to be damaged or stolen. 
 
 After crossing the river Formosa, which is about 
 a mile in width, we arrived at Badagry at five 
 o'clock in the afternoon, and were comfortably 
 accommodated in the dwelling of Mr. Houtson 
 \vho had previously resided at that place. The 
 house, like every other in the town, except the 
 king's, is constructed of bamboo cane, and has 
 but one story. On Friday, the 2d of December, 
 the King, Adolee, sent us a present of a bullock, 
 a fine pig, and some fowls ; and on the following 
 day honoured us with a visit, in all the 
 pomp and barbarous magnificence of African 
 royalty. He was mounted on a diminutive 
 black horse, and followed by about one hun- 
 dred and fifty of his subjects, who danced 
 and capered before and behind him ; whilst 
 a number of musicians, performing on native 
 instruments of the rudest description, promoted 
 considerably the animation and vivacity of their 
 motions and gestures. He was gorgeously 
 arrayed in a scarlet cloak, literally covered with
 
 KING ADOLEE. 47 
 
 gold lace, and white kerseymere trowsers simi- 
 larly embroidered. His hat was turned up in 
 front with rich bands of gold lace, and decorated 
 with a splendid plume of white ostrich feathers, 
 which, waving gracefully over his head, added 
 not a little to the imposing dignity of his appear- 
 ance ! Close to the horse's head marched two 
 boys, each carrying a musket in his right hand ; 
 they wore plain scarlet coats, with white collars 
 and large cocked hats, tastefully trimmed with 
 gold lace, which costly material all classes ex- 
 cessively admire. Two fighting chiefs accom- 
 panied their sovereign on foot, and familiarly 
 chatted with him as he advanced. On approach- 
 ing within a short distance of us, the monarch 
 dismounted, and squatting himself on the ground 
 outside our house, an umbrella was unfurled and 
 held over his head, whilst a dozen of his wives 
 stood round their lord and master 
 
 " With diverse-colour'd fans, whose wind did seem 
 To glow the delicate cheeks which they did cool ! " 
 
 for the atmosphere was sultry and the heat op- 
 pressive. After paying our respects to our august 
 visitor, to do him honour, I was desired to hoist
 
 48 KING ADOLEE. 
 
 an English union-jack over him. This was the 
 climax of his glory and his pride ; he was sensibly 
 delighted, and looked as childishly vain as a girl 
 when she first puts on a new dress. All hands 
 now began to drink rum, and the spectacle be- 
 came highly and singularly grotesque. Laying 
 aside all pretensions to superiority of rank, his 
 Badagrian majesty forgot his illustrious birth, 
 and was as cheerful and merry as the meanest and 
 most jovial of his subjects. Seated on the 
 ground, his splendid dress glittering in the rays 
 of the sun, surrounded by his generals, pages, 
 and wives, with a British flag held by a white 
 floating over his princely head, his soul soft- 
 ened by the most inspiring and delicious music ! 
 and his animal spirits exhilarated by large and 
 repeated draughts of his favourite cordial, he 
 was in a transport of joy, and looked and spoke as 
 if he had been the happiest man in the universe ; 
 while the shouts and bustle of the people, the 
 cracking of fingers and clapping of hands, the 
 singing, and dancing, and capering, all was so 
 novel, and so African, that it made an impression 
 on my memory which will never be erased from
 
 KING OF BADAGRY. 49 
 
 it. This debauch continued for a couple of 
 hours ; when all the rum being consumed, and 
 Adolee becoming rather tipsy, his majesty 
 begged me to favour him, before his departure, 
 with a tune on my bugle horn, of which he 
 had formed the most extravagant notions. To 
 this modest request I cheerfully acceded, and 
 played several English and Scotch airs, until I 
 became so completely exhausted that my breath 
 was entirely spent, the king not permitting 
 me to drop the instrument till then. Owing 
 either to the effects of the liquor Adolee had 
 partaken of so freely, or to the sound of the 
 music, Sic. he was quite in an extasy, and 
 shook hands and thanked me at the close of 
 every tune. The king then remounted, and 
 the procession returned in the same order, and 
 performed the same anticks as when it came. 
 Captain Clapperton and his associates accom- 
 panied the monarch to his palace ; whilst I and 
 my companions repaired to our peaceful ha- 
 bitation. 
 
 Adolee, recovered from the fatigue and re- 
 velry of the preceding day, visited us again on
 
 50 KING OF BADAGRY. 
 
 the third, and minutely examined every article 
 belonging to the mission, without, however, 
 expressing the slightest inclination to reserve any 
 thing for himself. When the use of the telescope 
 was explained to him, he could not conceal his 
 astonishment, and fancied its maker to be more 
 than mortal ; the medicine-chest also, and its 
 contents, excited his curiosity and attention, 
 and he quitted us with an exalted opinion of 
 the knowledge and ingenuity of the English 
 people. 
 
 His majesty, without pomp or ceremony, 
 visited us daily till the period of our de- 
 parture from his capital; he had the reputa- 
 tion of being a friendly, good sort of man, and 
 was apparently about forty or forty-five years 
 of age, five feet nine inches in height, and 
 rather inclining to corpulency. 
 
 The market, which is held daily, is tolerably 
 supplied with poultry, yams, maize, palm wine, 
 country cloth, &c. &c. The cattle are no 
 better, either in size or condition, than those at 
 Sierra Leone, and on other parts of the coast. 
 
 On Wednesday, the 7th, after a drinking
 
 EXPOSED NIGHT-QUARTERS. 51 
 
 revel with the Badagrian great men, we em- 
 barked in canoes on a branch of the Lagos 
 river, accompanied by Adolee and many of his 
 chiefs, in separate canoes, and people in armed 
 boats for our mutual protection, in case of 
 surprise or attack. Landing about a mile and 
 a half from the junction of the Gazie creek, 
 Adolee and some of his people returned to 
 Badagry, and we slept in the evening on the 
 western bank, in the open air, without even the 
 shelter of a single tree. The moon shone 
 brightly and beautifully in the night, and not 
 a sound disturbed the solemn tranquillity of the 
 place, all being as still and quiet as the grave. 
 Next morning we found ourselves wet to the 
 skin with the heavy dew that had fallen in our 
 sleep ; and in all probability were thus sown 
 the seeds of those disorders which subsequently 
 broke out with such fatal virulence, and pro- 
 duced suffering, disease, and death, in our 
 little party. In the forenoon I accompanied 
 my master and Mr. Houtson to Bookhar, a 
 neighbouring town, and the stores and baggage 
 were ordered to be sent after us. On arriving 
 D 2
 
 52 NATIVES OF BOOKHAR. 
 
 at that place we seated ourselves under the 
 branches of a large tree, and were quickly 
 visited by hundreds of the inhabitants, who 
 came in large companies to view us, and as 
 soon as their curiosity was satisfied, made way 
 for their impatient countrymen. The children, 
 who were not tall enough to catch a glimpse of 
 us through the crowd, were perched on the 
 shoulders of their parents or relatives, who 
 pointed us out to them, observing, " There they 
 are !" as if we had been wild beasts, or mon* 
 sters of some sort. All, however, behaved with 
 the strictest propriety, and although they re- 
 peatedly laughed to each other on making ob-r 
 servations on the singularity of our appearance 
 or the whiteness of our skin, not a single word 
 of derision or disrespect was uttered against 
 the strangers. 
 
 Whilst we were stared at in this manner, 
 the crowd suddenly divided in order to make 
 way for a fighting chief belonging to the army 
 of the king of Katunga, who came in full state 
 to visit us, riding on a small horse, and followed 
 by a large retinue, two of whom were also
 
 A FIGHTING CHIEF. 53 
 
 mounted. On his head he wore a cap and 
 feathers, evidently of European manufacture, 
 and he was clad in a scarlet jacket, fluttering in 
 rags, with dirty yellow facings, and loose 
 trousers of faded nankeen a dress of which 
 he was extravagantly vain. The king's mes- 
 sengers having had a consultation with the 
 chief, the latter dismounted, and sat himself 
 down at the distance of about a stone's-throw 
 from our tree. Captain Clapperton then sent 
 him an umbrella as a token that we were 
 amicably disposed towards him, and wished him 
 well ; on receipt of which his attendants set up 
 so terrific a noise, with drums, clapping of 
 hands, &,c. that it was utterly impossible to 
 hear ourselves speak while it lasted. As soon 
 as this clamour had subsided the chief arose, 
 and coming up to us, shook hands with each, 
 very complacently seating himself by our sides. 
 He expressed himself overjoyed at seeing white 
 men, and complimented the English, in no mea- 
 sured language, for the good they had done in 
 trading with the people of the country. A 
 glass or two of rum, which he swallowed with
 
 54 CHIEF OF BOOKHAR. 
 
 peculiar delight, set the warrior-chief in bet- 
 ter humour than ever, and he repeated his 
 encomiums in so loud a key that they were 
 heard by his attendants, who, out of respect, 
 had retreated several yards from the spot, when 
 the music of the drum was revived with greater 
 spirit than before, interrupted only by immense 
 clapping of hands, and other demonstrations of 
 joy. This " harmony of sweet sounds" continued 
 till the mighty chief left us, which took place 
 the moment he perceived that no more spirits 
 were forthcoming. 
 
 As soon as we had fairly got rid of our gar- 
 rulous visitor, we rose to pay a visit to the 
 caboceer, or chief of the town, whom we found 
 in earnest conversation with his elders, and a 
 few of his old grey-headed wives, altogether 
 forming the most venerable looking group of 
 human beings I ever saw. The profoundest 
 silence prevailed as we drew near, and every 
 eye was anxiously fixed upon us. The chief 
 was a tall thin man, well stricken in years, and 
 respectably dressed in a silk tobe and trousers 
 of country cloth. On his head he wore a cap
 
 CHIEF OF BOOKHAR. 55 
 
 so thickly studded with various coloured glass 
 beads that the material of which it was composed 
 could with difficulty be distinguished ; and small 
 gold colored tassels of beads hung from it to 
 the shoulders. The cap was neatly and fanci- 
 fully made, and set off the black ill-natured face 
 of its owner to great advantage. After paying 
 the usual compliments, goora nuts and water 
 were presented, and my master explaining to 
 the chief who and what we were, and what mo- 
 tives had induced us to visit the country, with 
 which he expressed himself perfectly well satis- 
 fied, we were conducted to his residence; re- 
 ceiving shortly afterwards a present of a sheep, 
 some yams, and fire-wood. Many of the chief's 
 young wives stole every opportunity to peep 
 through holes in the walls at the white men, but 
 when detected gratifying their curiosity in this 
 manner, they were excessively confused, and 
 ran off and hid themselves. 
 
 In the evening Captain Pearce arrived with 
 the baggage from the banks of the river ; and 
 in the night it was guarded by the soldiers of 
 the king of Badagry, who serenaded us till the
 
 56 FETISH-HUT AT BOOKHAR. 
 
 next morning with a most astounding concert 
 of drums, Sec. in order, as they asserted, to 
 deter thieves from plundering the goods. 
 
 Near the entrance of the town, on the left 
 side of the road, stands a solitary fetish-hut, of 
 large dimensions, with a number of wooden 
 figures, carved in bas-relief, some in a kneeling 
 and some in a recumbent posture, placed out- 
 side the walls ; these idols the inhabitants wor- 
 ship, and ascribe miraculous powers to their 
 agency. 
 
 We arose at an early hour on Thursday : but 
 the old hypocritical chief, alleging that he had 
 not received a present proportionate to his re- 
 spectability or expectations, would neither exert 
 himself in any way to procure a single indivi- 
 dual to convey the baggage, nor appeared wil- 
 ling for us to leave till he had finished a long- 
 winded harangue, which had already occupied 
 three hours, and threatened to last at least as 
 many more, when his tongue was fortunately 
 stopped by the two Badagrian Generals clap- 
 ping their hands on his lips. Owing to this 
 circumstance a few individuals only volunteered
 
 TRAVELLING DIFFICULTIES. 57 
 
 to assist us, amongst whom was one of the chief's 
 daughters, a bouncing woman of five-and-twenty, 
 who carried the canteen, -so that our Badagrian 
 escort were obliged to undertake that office 
 themselves. We were equally unfortunate in 
 our inquiries for hammock-men, not a single 
 individual in the town being willing to engage 
 himself in what all ranks conceive to be an oc- 
 cupation fit only for horses ; but Captain Clap- 
 pert on having borrowed the horse of a Bada- 
 grian chief, he and Mr. Houtson agreed to ride 
 him in turns. We took a short route across 
 the country, whilst Captain Pearce and Dr. 
 Morrison proceeded to Dagnoo by a safer but 
 more circuitous road. 
 
 It was evening when we left Bookhar, and it 
 soon becoming dark, we had to grope our way 
 on a narrow foot path, winding through a 
 gloomy dismal forest, and rendered almost im- 
 pervious to man or beast, except on the beaten 
 track, by reason of thick entangling underwood. 
 To add to our misery, Captain Clapperton be- 
 came so painfully galled in consequence of riding 
 on the back of a lean horse without a saddle, 
 D 5
 
 58 DAGNOO. 
 
 that he preferred walking the remainder of the 
 way, although wearing only slippers ; these were 
 soon lost, and he was obliged to limp a consi- 
 derable distance barefooted, so that his feet were 
 swollen, and blistered dreadfully, and before 
 reaching Isako were literally bathed in blood. 
 
 We were informed in the village that the 
 party with the baggage had left that place some 
 time before for Dagnoo, whither we were obliged 
 to follow it, preceded by a number of the kind 
 inhabitants with burning torches to show us the 
 intricate path, which did not, however, prevent 
 our stumbling at every step. We arrived at 
 Dagnoo about midnight, our clothes being torn 
 to ribbons, and all of us excessively fatigued 
 from the effects of so long and unpleasant a 
 walk ; and on finding that the beds had been 
 sent still further on, we were again under the 
 necessity of sleeping in the open air, exposed to 
 a heavy dew, which completely saturated the 
 remnant of our dress before morning. 
 
 We arose early, and after crossing a small 
 creek in the vicinity of Dagnoo, continued our 
 journey, through a vast primeval forest, some-
 
 HUMS A. 59 
 
 times broken by a grove of palm-trees, a field 
 of Indian corn, and even a whole village in 
 large open places. We were met in the path 
 by numbers of the natives of both sexes, with 
 bundles of palm-leaves on their heads, used for 
 the purpose of thatching their huts; and the 
 wild shrill cry of the grey parrot resounded 
 from the huge branches of the trees. 
 
 On arriving at Humba, we found Captain 
 Pearce and Dr. Morrison at the chief's residence, 
 waiting to receive us; and shortly afterwards 
 Captain Clapperton was taken very unwell with 
 fever, having had a slight attack of ague in the 
 course of the day. The town was in ruins, and 
 its inhabitants appeared in a truly pitiable state; 
 nevertheless singing and dancing, and music- 
 playing, were kept up dui'ing the whole of the 
 night, with as much spirit and good humour as 
 if the people had been the happiest in the 
 world. 
 
 On the morning of the llth the baggage was 
 sent on, and we walked to another village at no 
 great distance from Humba, although my master 
 was so extremely weak that he was barely able
 
 6O RUNAWAY CARRIERS. 
 
 to undertake even so short a journey on foot. 
 When we entered the place, we found the car- 
 riers detained by command of the chief, until a 
 flask of rum, by way of tribute, was given him. 
 He came up as soon as he saw us, with a 
 leopard's skin tlirown carelessly over his shoul- 
 ders, and repeated his determination not to let 
 the men proceed till his request was complied 
 with. The old man was however satisfied with 
 a strong glass of grog, prepared for him by Mr. 
 Houtsou, each mouthful of which, instead of 
 swallowing, he adroitly squirted into the mouths 
 of his longing attendants, who stood gaping, 
 with glistering eyes, to receive the liquor thus 
 deliciously refined, and which was relished by 
 the whole party with peculiar satisfaction ! The 
 carriers were then allowed to go on with the 
 baggage without further molestation, and Cap- 
 tain Clapperton got into a hammock; but the 
 bearers had proceeded only a few paces, when 
 it was for some unaccountable reason suddenly 
 let down, and the fellows scampered away as 
 fast as their legs could carry them. It was 
 afterwards taken up by our own party, and con-
 
 CHIEF LOLLAKELLI. 61 
 
 veyed through Ackongujie, a pleasant village 
 surrounded by fertile land, to a town called 
 Eto, in which the bearers were changed, and 
 we proceeded through thick woods till we arrived 
 at Sattoo, where we slept, after having made an 
 excellent supper on a goat the chief had sent 
 us. Next morning we pursued our journey 
 early, and at noon reached the pleasant town 
 of Bidgie, near to which were extensive planta- 
 tions of corn and plantains. The chief, a fine 
 young man named Lollakelli, who was perpe- 
 tually smiling, pressed us to stay with him the 
 remainder of the day ; and the inhabitants, who 
 came in crowds to see us, passing the same 
 compliment, after a little hesitation it was ac- 
 cepted, and we slept there. 
 
 Dr. Morrison felt himself indisposed in the 
 evening, with slight symptoms of fever, and 
 swelling of the legs ; but next morning being 
 partially recovered, we proceeded in good spirits 
 to the borders of a river we had to cross. Lolla- 
 kelli, with several of his people accompanying 
 us. Mr. Houtson and myself embarked in the 
 first canoe, but we were an hour and half on
 
 62 ILLNESS AMONG THE PARTY. 
 
 the water before we could reach the landing- 
 place, situated on the eastern bank : nor did the 
 other canoes meet with better success. All 
 being at length safely over, we pursued our 
 journey, and our road lying nearly the whole 
 of the way through a dried swamp overgrown 
 with rushes, travelling was thereby rendered 
 extremely uncomfoitable. About mid-day my 
 master became exhausted, in consequence of 
 fatigue and the excessive heat ; and resting him- 
 self in the shade of some diminutive trees for a 
 few minutes, a person on horseback passed by, 
 who seeing him reposing on the earth, dis- 
 mounted, and offered him the use of his horse. 
 This being gratefully accepted, the party was 
 immediately in motion, and the generous black 
 walked with us to Atalabora. On entering that 
 village we found the baggage detained for want 
 of carriers, who had been sent for from an ad- 
 joining town, and had not then arrived; so 
 that Captain Pearce, who felt seriously indis- 
 posed, and Dr. Morrison, the other invalid, 
 thought it necessary to refresh themselves with 
 an hour or two's sleep, in the principal hut in
 
 TOWN OF FUNNIE, 63 
 
 the town ; whilst Mr. Houtson, my master, and 
 myself, took the opportunity of stretching our- 
 selves at full length underneath the branches of 
 a spreading tree, the heat being oppressive, and 
 unrelieved by a single zephyr. The expected 
 carriers having arrived, and the sick expressing 
 themselves somewhat strengthened with the short 
 nap they had enjoyed, they were first sent for- 
 wards, and the other gentlemen, with myself, 
 followed them. The road was quite level, and 
 lay through a small town called Funnie, across 
 rich plantations of yams. Towards evening 
 we were met by a person from the chief of 
 Laboo, with horses for our accommodation. 
 We immediately mounted the beasts, and jour- 
 neying at an easy rate, entered Laboo by moon- 
 light. 
 
 The town is delightfully situated on a rising 
 ground, commanding an extensive and noble 
 prospect; the approach to it is through a beau- 
 tiful walk of trees, between which at certain 
 measured distances, fetish-houses are erected, 
 which are held in the greatest veneration by 
 the inhabitants. Immediately on our arrival we
 
 64 ARRIVAL AT JANNAH. 
 
 were conducted to the chief, whom we found 
 sitting under the verandah of his dwelling, and 
 who politely welcomed us to Laboo, observing 
 that he had been anxiously expecting us for 
 some hours before. Goora nuts, as usual, were 
 presented, with water in a certain chamber 
 utensil which shall be nameless, the odd service 
 to which it was applied causing us to laugh 
 heartily ; and the chief became as sociable after 
 we had been in his company a few minutes only, 
 as if he had been acquainted with us for years. 
 Dr. Morrison was brought into the town about 
 two hours after, in a weak and helpless state ; 
 and on Wednesday the 14th, I was myself 
 taken extremely unwell with coup-de-soleil, or 
 sun-stroke, having incautiously left my head 
 uncovered for some time on the preceding day. 
 Captain Pearce also felt much worse towards 
 the evening of the 14th, so that the day after that 
 gentleman, and Dr. Morrison and myself, were 
 obliged to be conveyed in hammocks on men's 
 heads, to Jannah, where we arrived an hour 
 before the rest of the party. 
 
 The inhabitants quickly surrounded the tree
 
 TROUBLESOME INTRUDERS. 65 
 
 under which we had been placed, and teazed us 
 with a thousand questions which we were unable 
 to answer. Meantime a dense crowd had col- 
 lected in front of us, and welcomed the red men 
 as we were termed, (our skin being at that time 
 much blistered by the rays of the sun,) by drum- 
 ming, and singing and dancing. In our languid 
 state, we were ill able to bear this eternal din, 
 and entreated the people to conduct us to a hut, 
 for that we were very ill ; but they answered with 
 the greatest unconcern, that the king, whose 
 house was directly opposite, must of necessity 
 see us before we ventured to stir from the spot ; 
 that he was the greatest man between Badagry 
 and Katunga ; and that it would not be well for 
 us to offend him by being too importunate in 
 our solicitations. We at length lost all patience, 
 and observing a large empty shed in the centre 
 of the square, which we found to be the palaver- 
 house or hall of council, we ventured to crawl 
 into it as well as we could, being only a few 
 yards from the tree. Captain Pearce and Dr. 
 Morrison had then their beds made ; but mine 
 being rolled up, I was too weak to spread it,
 
 66 KING OF JANNAH. 
 
 and so I lay along the bare ground. As soon as 
 Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houtson had made 
 their appearance, the noise was hushed for a mo- 
 ment, and shortly afterwards the chief himself, ac- 
 companied by about fifty of his wives, approach- 
 ed, and, whilst they stationed themselves at a 
 short distance from us, the latter struck up a na- 
 tive tune, which they sang loudly, and with much 
 feeling; indeed there was a solemnity and pathos 
 about it that reminded me of the most impres- 
 sive church-music of my own country. As soon 
 as the sound of the ladies' voices had ceased, the 
 band played a lively air, in which the singers 
 occasionally joined ; and at the conclusion of 
 the concert a message was sent from the king 
 to the palaver-house, for the red men that were 
 well to make their appearance. Accordingly 
 Captain Clapperton and Mr. Houtson went to 
 the chief, who, at the opening of the conference, 
 I could perceive, as I lay on the earth, to be 
 violently agitated speaking with great apparent 
 anger, and pointing several times to a silver 
 knife that was stuck in his girdle. After knit- 
 ing his brows, and frowning for a minute or
 
 KING OF JANNAH. 67 
 
 two, his features suddenly relaxed into a gentler 
 expression, and graciously smiling, he shook 
 hands cordially with the gentlemen, and enter- 
 ing the palaver-house, extended his royal hand 
 to us for the like purpose. He was attired in a 
 loose yellow silk tobe, and trousers of country 
 cloth ; and his cap of red velvet had a purple 
 silk tassel appended to the crown. Like most 
 of his countrymen, the chief or king of Jannah 
 was fond of displaying his conversational pow- 
 ers, and when answering any questions that 
 were put to him, or making observations on what 
 struck him as being singular or remarkable in 
 our appearance, he rattled a child's silver 
 whistle and bells (of English manufacture), 
 which he held in his left hand, by way of ac- 
 companiment to his voice, which was certainly 
 not the most harmonious in the world. 
 
 We were subequently conducted to a house 
 which was partly occupied, and too small for 
 our accommodation; so that my master, Mr. 
 Houtson, and Dawson were obliged to remain 
 under the verandah, neither of the others being 
 well enough to follow their example. In the
 
 ILLNESS OP THE AUTHOR. 
 
 evening the king came alone, and plainly 
 dressed, to visit us, and in this instance was very 
 inquisitive and communicative. He wished 
 particularly to understand our business with 
 the sultan of Yariba, for, as we afterwards 
 learnt, a messenger from the coast had informed 
 him that the white men's object was expressly 
 and solely to make war upon that monarch and 
 dethrone him ; but the sorry plight in which we 
 then were disproved the assertion ; and the chief 
 himself acknowledged that he did not place the 
 slightest confidence in the unfounded rumour. 
 
 On Friday I became considerably worse, and 
 on the following day my life was despaired of. 
 In the evening I was bled in the temple ; but 
 the doctor, who was himself suffering from fever, 
 being unable to hold the instrument steadily, 
 inadvertently thrust it into my skull. This ac- 
 cident occasioned the most excruciating agony, 
 and made me shriek with pain. I passed the 
 night in a manner that cannot be described, 
 but next morning felt much easier and better. 
 On Monday, however, the fever returned with 
 more violence than ever, attended by a severe
 
 AN AFRICAN BARBER. 69 
 
 head-ache that almost drove me distracted, and 
 at my own suggestion Dr. Morrison ordered my 
 head to be shaved. To perform this delicate 
 operation a native barber was at length found, 
 who came wielding a tremendous knife curved 
 like a reap-hook, instead of a razor, and began 
 his avocation in a most brutal manner, just like 
 a clumsy English butcher shaving a slaughtered 
 pig; insomuch, that when his labour was finished, 
 my skull was scalped almost as effectually as it- 
 it had been done by the tomahawk of a North. 
 American Indian. Although my head was thus 
 miserably excoriated, a large blister, covering 
 the whole of it, was applied ; and my suffering 
 was heightened to the utmost degree of intensity; 
 so that I lost my reason, and in the evening was 
 completely delirious. In this state, as I sub- 
 sequently learnt, I sprang from my couch, and 
 being animated with the fury of a maniac, 
 knocked down the doctor and my master, broke 
 and destroyed every thing within my reach, and 
 when in the act of escaping in my night-dress 
 from the door, was forcibly dragged back to my 
 bed by the united strength of the whole party,
 
 70 ILLNESS AMONG THE PARTY, 
 
 who had been alarmed with the noise I had 
 made. Weakened and exhausted by this mad 
 prank, the phrenzy left me, and reason returned, 
 but with it came the loss of speech. About an 
 hour afterwards a consultation was held by my 
 bed-side ; and the doctor having carefully felt 
 my pulse, I was comforted by the expressed 
 opinion, that it would be impossible for me to 
 live throughout the night. Much to the asto- 
 nishment of all, however, on Tuesday the disor- 
 der had abated so greatly, that I was enabled to 
 sit up and converse rationally with those around 
 me : my health, in fact, seemed to return almost 
 as rapidly as I had lost it. 
 
 Dr. Morrison and Captain Pearce, in the 
 meantime, continued alarmingly ill, and evi- 
 dently getting worse. Their hollow eyes, sunk 
 deeply in their sockets, and their skin exhibiting 
 a sallow and cadaverous hue, they looked more 
 like walk'ing spectres than living human beings ; 
 insomuch, that Captain Clapperton, distressed 
 at their altered appearance, urged upon each of 
 them the necessity of their either remaining at 
 Jannah, or returning, under the care of Mr.
 
 ARRIVAL AT BEECHY. 71 
 
 Houtson, to the Brazen. Both gentlemen, how- 
 ever, declared their invincible repugnance to the 
 measure, and on the contrary expressed them- 
 selves resolutely bent to proceed at all risks: 
 Captain Pearce, in particular, felt greatly hurt 
 at the suggestion of his friend, and asserted, in 
 a decided tone, that he would infinitely prefer 
 being buried in the country, remote as it was from 
 his native land, than suffer Captain Clapperton 
 to pursue his journey alone, while he had life to 
 accompany him. The Captain, affectionately 
 pressing the hand of the disinterested invalid, 
 thanked him for the lively interest he felt in his 
 welfare, but repeated his unwillingness for ei- 
 ther him or Dr. Morrison to proceed further, 
 in their present emaciated and languid state : to 
 this, however, no attention was paid. 
 
 Things being thus amicably adjusted, to the 
 complete satisfaction at least of the invalids, we 
 left Jannah early on the morning of Thursday 
 the 22d, (the sick, myself amongst the number, 
 travelling in hammocks, as on former occasions,) 
 and slept at Beechy that night. At ten the 
 next morning we arrived at Tschow, in which
 
 72 DR. MORRISON'S DEPARTURE. 
 
 town we received much hospitality from the 
 natives; and in the afternoon Dr. Morrison, 
 fancying that the sea air would restore his 
 health, which was hourly declining, at his own 
 suggestion was sent back to the ship, under the 
 protection of Mr. Houtson. 
 
 ,{>- 
 
 arnoe. * 
 
 ^; 

 
 73 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Deaths of Dawson, Captain Pearce, and Dr. Morrison Their 
 funeral The survivors, after meeting with various occur- 
 rences, and experiencing the kindest hospitality from the 
 natives on their mute, arrive at Katunga, the capital of 
 Yariba, on the 15th of January, 1826. 
 
 ON Saturday, the roads being rendered al- 
 most impassable, in consequence of the rains 
 that had fallen the preceding night, it was not 
 without experiencing considerable difficulty that 
 we could pursue our journey. The mud and 
 water reached, in some places, almost to the 
 horses' shoulders; and Dawson, who was ill 
 with ague, was unable to retain his seat on the 
 animal's back, and fell three or four times in 
 the mire, till he became so much exhausted by 
 struggling to regain his seat, that, in despair, 
 he at last flung his arms only across the horse's 
 
 VOL. i. E
 
 74 DAWSON'S ILLNESS. 
 
 back; and panting with his exertions, was in 
 this manner dragged to a considerable distance. 
 At eleven o'clock we arrived at the village of 
 Egbo ; and after partaking of a slight refresh- 
 ment, each of us being indisposed in a greater 
 or less degree, we stretched ourselves at full 
 length on our mats, in the hope of obtaining a 
 little sleep. Dawson, however, was taken dread- 
 fully ill, and his moanings of distress prevented 
 me from closing my eyes. He pronounced the 
 names of his wife and children, whom he had 
 left in England, with a bitter emphasis, and 
 reproached himself repeatedly with having de- 
 serted them, to perish miserably in a strange 
 country. In this manner he complained till 
 the afternoon, refusing all consolation, when he 
 became a little more composed; and Captain 
 Pearce fell asleep. My master had quitted the 
 apartment just before ; and the medicine-chest 
 lying open by Dawson 's side, he perceived it, 
 and pointing to a phial, desired a black attend- 
 ant to fill him a glass of its contents ; which 
 being promptly done, he eagerly swallowed it. 
 Whilst this was going on I had fallen into a
 
 DEATH OF DAWSON. 75 
 
 slumber ; and on awaking, about a quarter of 
 an hour afterwards, not hearing Dawson's 
 groans, I asked how he did; but receiving no 
 answer, I went to his bed-side, and found him a 
 cold and stiffened corpse ! The sight of so 
 unexpected and ghastly a spectacle caused me to 
 shudder, and I involuntarily made an exclama- 
 tion of surprise and terror, that awoke Captain 
 Pearce, who asked what was the matter. Before 
 I had time to reply, he had raised himself on 
 his couch, and the truth instantly bursting upon 
 him " What ! " said he, " is Dawson dead ? 
 Well, poor fellow, his sufferings are over; / 
 cannot long survive him;" and with a deep sigh 
 he sunk back exhausted on his mat, without 
 making any further remark. 
 
 On examining the bottle from which the un- 
 fortunate man had desired the liquor to be 
 taken, I found it to be partly filled with ether, 
 which he must have mistaken for something 
 else, and which had caused his almost immediate 
 dissolution. As soon as the natives were made 
 acquainted with the circumstance, they set up 
 their death-yell ; and if all the fiends of dark- 
 
 E2
 
 76 FUNERAL OF DAWSON. 
 
 ness had joined in cliorus, they could not have 
 produced an effect more frightfully and fear- 
 fully appalling than was the sound produced in 
 that instance. Captain Clapperton hastened to 
 silence them, which, after some difficulty, he 
 succeeded in doing; but the awfully terrific 
 noise the people made, seemed to be ringing 
 in our ears the whole of the night. As dead 
 bodies cannot be left exposed a great while in 
 tropical countries, Dawson was buried on the 
 evening of his death, followed to the grave by 
 the whole of our black attendants and myself. 
 Captain Clapperton read the funeral service 
 over his remains, which were then deposited in 
 the earth, and we returned to Captain Pearce, 
 whom we had left alone in the hut Our party 
 was now reduced to three whites, one of whom 
 was dangerously ill ; my master himself was in 
 a much worse state of health than he would 
 either acknowledge or believe ; and I was but 
 just recovering from a disease that had nearly 
 proved fatal to me. A gloom was therefore cast 
 upon the countenances of our little band, as we 
 prepared to proceed, on the morning of Sun-
 
 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 77 
 
 day; but Captain Pearce rallying a little, we set 
 off in more cheerful spirits. 
 
 The appearance of the country, from Jannah 
 to Tshow, is greatly superior to that from the 
 coast to the former place, being clearer of wood, 
 and in a higher state of cultivation, swelling like- 
 wise into easy and delightful undulations. Streams 
 of water fertilize the vallies ; and the hills, co- 
 vered with a lively verdure, are adorned with 
 lofty and handsome trees. The towns of the 
 natives, from Badagry to Tshow, with a few 
 exceptions only, like those in the island of 
 Madagascar, are situated in the bosom of thick 
 woods, and are entered by paths so intricate, 
 that, like the labyrinth of Woodstock, they 
 are known to none but the inhabitants them- 
 selves. Sometimes, however, they have only 
 one path, which is generally defended by strong 
 stockades or a mud wall, and sometimes by both 
 together. 
 
 On Tuesday morning we continued our jour- 
 ney, with a cool strengthening breeze and a 
 serene atmosphere, which seemed to invigorate 
 each of us with renewed life and spirit; and, after
 
 78 ILLNESS OF CAPTAIN PEARCE. 
 
 two hours' travelling, we arrived at Engwa. In 
 the course of the journey, for the first time since 
 leaving the ship, we perceived great numbers of 
 trees, stripped of their foliage, and the grass 
 beaten to the ground, so that, with the excep- 
 tion of the absence of frost and snow, the coun- 
 try looked like many parts of England in the 
 month of November or December. Several of 
 the natives in this, as in almost every other in- 
 stance, either accompanied or followed us on tine 
 way, and we experienced as much civility from 
 them as our countrymen would have bestowed 
 upon us in our native land. They were, generally 
 speaking, neatly dressed in cap, shirt (tobe), and 
 trousers, and very cleanly in their personal ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 About eleven o'clock Captain Pearce became 
 suddenly worse, and an hour or two afterwards 
 was delirious. He talked much and incohe- 
 rently, in detached sentences ; at one time appa- 
 rently conversing with his mother in the most 
 affectionate terms, asking her questions, and 
 answering them himself, and the next moment 
 reverting to his own melancholy condition, and
 
 FUNERAL OF CAPTAIN PEARCB. 79 
 
 muttering something which no one could under- 
 stand. In this pitiable state he remained till 
 nine o'clock in the evening, when he fell into a 
 stupor, from which he awoke about half an hour 
 afterwards, and attempting to raise himself on 
 his couch, with a faint groan, and a convulsive 
 throe, he fell back and instantly expired. 
 
 Both Captain Clapperton and myself were 
 deeply affected as we enveloped the lifeless body 
 in its shroud ; and a host of gloomy reflections 
 crowded upon our minds, to see the once spi- 
 rited and cheerful companion of our wanderings 
 stretched out before us, the shadow only of a 
 man, clothed in the mournful habiliments of 
 death. Next morning, about eleven o'clock, 
 the body was borne to the place of its interment, 
 followed by my master and myself, with the 
 messengers of the kings of Badagry and Ka- 
 tunga, and a great number of natives, who all 
 behaved with the strictest decorum. As in the 
 former instance, Captain Clapperton, although 
 extremely unwell, in a tremulous voice and agi- 
 tated manner, read the funeral service, inter- 
 rupted only by his own emotion, which he found
 
 80 TRIBUTE TO CAPTAIN PEARCE. 
 
 it impossible to conceal. The corpse having been 
 consigned to the grave, it was soon closed over 
 him for ever, and my master and myself, with 
 heavy hearts and melancholy anticipations, re- 
 turned to our cheerless habitation. The follow- 
 ing inscription, at the desire of Captain Clap- 
 perton, I carved on a board, which was placed 
 at the head of the pit, over which a shed was 
 built by the natives ; and a strong bamboo fence 
 surrounded the whole : 
 
 " Here lie the remains of Robert Pearce, 
 Captain in the Royal Navy of England, who 
 died 27th Dec. 1825, aged 28, much regretted 
 by those that survive of the mission. 
 
 " H. CLAPPERTON. 
 " R. LANDER." 
 
 Captain Pearce had rendered himself a gene- 
 ral favourite by his gentle and pleasing man- 
 ners, and excellent natural disposition. My 
 master was particularly attached to him, and 
 esteemed him highly, while the natives almost 
 adored him. His companionable qualities were 
 great, and he displayed them to advantage in 
 our toilsome journeyings, raising the spirits of
 
 TRIBUTE TO CAPTAIN PEARCE. 81 
 
 the party by his wit and cheerfulness, and in- 
 fusing his own good temper into the breasts of 
 every one. He was besides an excellent limner 
 and draughtsman, and possessed an aptitude for 
 picking up the various languages of the natives, 
 which bade fair to render him of the most essen- 
 tial service to the mission. No one deplored his 
 loss, or felt the want of his pleasant society, more 
 than myself. Just after he was taken ill, at 
 his own request, as soon as the day's toil was 
 over, I was constantly with him, and at night 
 my mat was placed close to his. We used to 
 chat for whole hours together, on different cir- 
 cumstances of our lives; and my little history 
 afforded him a fund of amusement. Any thing, 
 indeed, that promised to divert our thoughts 
 from the calamities which threatened us, was 
 resorted to, and every trifling incident we had 
 each met with from our childhood repeated a 
 thousand times over, in order to dole away the 
 long, still, dismal hours of night, when sickness 
 prevented either of us from closing our eyes. 
 Throughout Captain Pearce's illness, his pa- 
 tience, resignation, and manly fortitude never 
 
 E5
 
 82 DEATH OF DR. MORRISON. 
 
 forsook him; he was conscious that he should 
 ultimately sink under the influence of a disorder 
 that was visibly wasting him, and daily reducing 
 his strength : nevertheless, this belief neither 
 shook his firmness nor damped his spirits, and he 
 always spoke of his anticipated dissolution with 
 a serious calmness of manner that surprised and 
 pleased me. None of us thought that his end 
 was so near ; we expected he would have strug- 
 gled on at least a week or two longer ; but the 
 sorrowful event disappointed the hopes we had 
 cherished, and he expired prematurely, to the 
 infinite regret of every one. 
 
 Mr. Houtson returned on Saturday the 31st, 
 with the afflictive intelligence of the decease of 
 Dr. Morrison, which mournful circumstance 
 occurred at Jannah, by a coincidence, singular 
 in misfortune, on the same day, and as nearly 
 as possible at the same hour as that in which 
 Captain Pearce had breathed his last. He was 
 decently interred by Mr. Houtson on the 28th, 
 near to the house in which they had resided ; and 
 the ceremonies of the Church of England were 
 performed over his remains by the same gen- 
 tleman.
 
 HOSTILE TRIBES. 83 
 
 We saw several busts of men, as well as 
 figures of tigers, crocodiles, serpents, &c. carved 
 on blocks of wood, and extremely well executed, 
 at Engwa. The natives of that part of Africa 
 appear to have a genius for the art of sculpture, 
 which is in great repute with them ; and some of 
 their productions rival, in point of delicacy, any 
 of a similar kind that I have seen in Europe. 
 
 A fine Portuguese brig, and a Spanish 
 schooner, had been lying near Badagry, on 
 our leaving that place, waiting for slaves ; to 
 supply which vessels, the King of Jannah had 
 sent a slaving party to the territories of the 
 Essas, a powerful tribe in the neighbourhood of 
 Engwa, which had captured numbers of the 
 people. The Chief of the Essas was greatly ex- 
 asperated at this conduct of his neighbour, and 
 had made numerous reprisals; so that, at the 
 period of our passing through the country, a 
 general war was the consequence. 
 
 Owing to this circumstance, on leaving the 
 town of Engwa on the morning of the 3d of Ja- 
 nuary, 1826, we were accompanied by upwards 
 of a hundred men and women, who placed
 
 84 AFOORA AND ASSULA. 
 
 themselves under our protection, fancying that, 
 when within sight of the white strangers, no evil 
 could befall them. We crossed a river called 
 Akkeni at ten o'clock A.M., which was full of 
 sunken rocks, and arrived at the village of 
 Afoora about three hours after. Our journey 
 on that day was rendered particularly pleasant 
 by the fragrant odour exhaled from the cotton 
 plant, then in full blossom the wild, solitary 
 whistle of the grey parrot, and the delightful 
 melody of hundreds of small birds, swelling from 
 the branches of the tall trees. The country 
 every where improved as we advanced: fields 
 of Indian corn, and plantations of cotton, were 
 numerous, while groves of palm, and clumps of 
 cocoa and female cocoa trees, scattered on all 
 sides, rendered the prospect from the hills inex- 
 pressibly beautiful. Quitting Afoora early on 
 Wednesday, we reached Assula the same morn- 
 ing, in which town we were more conveniently 
 lodged than we had been since leaving the coast. 
 Starting about seven o'clock the next day, 
 and travelling over several low hills, and 
 through pleasant vallies, we entered Assoudo,
 
 ASSOUDO AND CHOKO. 85 
 
 (the first walled town we had yet seen,) at noon. 
 In the paths we observed numbers of fine birds, 
 with silky and brilliant plumage, but I could not 
 be informed to what particular species they be- 
 longed, neither of us having seen any of a simi- 
 lar kind before. Assoudo contains upwards of 
 ten thousand inhabitants, who were all as cu- 
 rious as their countrymen, and also as noisy, 
 but infinitely more modest and respectful, and 
 consequently more pleasing in their manners. 
 \Ve received an abundant supply of provisions 
 from the chief, consisting of a goat, fowls, eggs, 
 yams, bananas, &c. 
 
 On Friday, after halting at Tedi, a small 
 village romantically situated on a beautifully 
 wooded slope, where we changed carriers, we 
 arrived at the town of Choko; but its chief, 
 with nearly the whole of the male inhabitants, 
 being engaged in hunting the buffalo, did not 
 return till evening. In the mean time we had 
 spent an hour or two under a tree, but find- 
 ing no one disposed to invite us to a house, 
 of our own accord we took peaceable possession 
 of the best hut the place afforded, of the good-.
 
 86 TOWN OF DUFFO. 
 
 ness of which, however, we could not boast, it 
 being sadly out of repair. 
 
 Our road from Choko, on Saturday, lay 
 round the sides of low mountains, on the sum- 
 mits and in the hollows of which were several 
 hamlets, inhabited by an industrious race, who 
 had extensive plantations in the valleys below, 
 where the palm tree flourishes in great beauty. 
 We slept at Yundekka that night, and on the 
 next day arrived at Duffo. There the inha- 
 bitants visited us by thousands, and when de- 
 sired to go away, they replied that if we did not 
 allow them to visit our house, we must come 
 out, and show ourselves to them in the street, 
 for that they were determined, let the conse- 
 quence be what it might, to see a white man 
 before they died. The town contains ten or 
 twelve thousand inhabitants, nearly half of 
 whom, on our departure the next morning, fol- 
 lowed us at some distance, in order to catch a 
 last glimpse of their white visitants. 
 
 We passed through three villages, on the route 
 to Chiadoo, to which we were advancing, viz. 
 Jesin, Weza, and Lukewa, the chief of each of
 
 TOWN OF CHIADOO. 87 
 
 which, with the people, detained us an hour or 
 more underneatli the branches of trees, gazing 
 on us with a mingled sensation of compassion 
 and wonder, till, their curiosity being fully satis- 
 fied, we were suffered to proceed. At the latter 
 of these villages elephants' teeth were offered us 
 for sale ; but on our refusing to purchase them, 
 on the ground that we were not come for the 
 purpose of trading, the greatest amazement was 
 depicted on the countenances of the people, 
 and they wondered amongst each other what 
 motive besides could possibly attract us to their 
 country. 
 
 We entered Chiadoo about six o'clock in the 
 evening, and received the accustomed present of 
 provisions, &c. with the addition of a turkey. The 
 town, seated on a gentle declivity, is densely in- 
 habited, and defended by a thick mud wall and 
 deep trench, which wholly surround it. Within 
 the wall, and almost close to it, trees of large 
 dimensions are planted, so as to form a belt from 
 two to three miles in circumference, which in 
 case of necessity might easily be converted into 
 an excellent means of defence for the inha- 
 bitants.
 
 88 SCENERY OF CHIADOO. 
 
 The scenery on the road from Afoora to 
 Chiadoo is extremely picturesque, but the path 
 itself is in many places rugged and dangerous 
 to travellers. Winding by the sides of the Kong 
 mountains, over rocks and precipices, or through 
 romantic glens at their base, intersected with in- 
 numerable streams, the track was generally co- 
 vered with small loose stones, which galled the 
 feet of the hammock-men in a pitiable manner. 
 On all sides immense masses of granite, jutting 
 abruptly from the hills or vallies, reared their 
 heads to the height, in some places, of several 
 hundred feet ; whilst others, fearfully overhang- 
 ing the narrow foot-way, caused a shuddering 
 awe to creep over us as we passed underneath 
 them, which could not be suppressed. With 
 some danger, and more difficulty, the men who 
 bore my hammock clambered with me to the 
 summit of one of the mounts, from whence the 
 prospect on the one hand was immeasurably 
 grand and imposing, and on the other enchant- 
 ingly beautiful. At our feet were lovely dales, 
 cultivated in the highest degree, and planted 
 with cotton, yams, the plantain, &c. fertilized
 
 KANG MOUNTAINS. 
 
 by meandering rivulets, sparkling in the sun- 
 beams ; whilst before and behind us were naked 
 rocks, precipitously steep and rugged, many 
 standing singly, and others piled loosely upon 
 each other, apparently ready to tumble to the 
 earth below. The vallies, as well as the slopes 
 and summits of the hills, being studded with the 
 cleanly habitations of the natives, all bore an 
 air of novelty, cheerfulness, beauty, and gran- 
 deur, that I have never seen surpassed. 
 
 Our carriers having made themselves merry 
 at the village of Weza, with an intoxicating be- 
 verage called otee (a kind of ale made from mil- 
 let), were rather frolicsome during the remainder 
 of the journey; and on descending an almost 
 perpendicular precipice, I was in momentary 
 expectation of being tossed head-long from their 
 shoulders, my continued weakness rendering me 
 unfit to walk; but happily my fears were 
 not realized, and after numberless hair-breadth 
 escapes, I was conveyed in safety to Chiadoo. 
 The chief of that town, whose kindness to us was 
 displayed in a striking manner, entreated us to 
 remain with him a few days, and Mr. Houtson
 
 90 ARROW A, 
 
 being indisposed, and Captain Clapperton still 
 more so, the latter thought it advisable to stay 
 a couple of days at least in the place, in order 
 to try whether ease and quiet would produce a 
 beneficial effect on the health of either of them. 
 On the morning of Thursday, the 12th, we left 
 Chiadoo, followed by the chief and an immense 
 crowd of people of both sexes, amongst whom 
 were hundreds of children, the ladies enliven- 
 ing us with songs at intervals, and the men 
 blowing on horns and beating on gongs and 
 drums, without any regard to time, forming 
 altogether a most barbarous concert of vocal 
 and instrumental music, which continued to our 
 great inconvenience and annoyance till we 
 arrived at Matone, when they took leave of us 
 and returned. The carriers refreshed them- 
 selves with two huge calabashes ofotee whilst we 
 remained in the town, after which they started 
 with redoubled vigour, and about one o'clock 
 halted at Arrowa, where we slept. 
 
 After some little difficulty, occasioned by the 
 unwillingness of the chief and inhabitants to 
 part with us so soon, we pursued our journey at
 
 SPLENDID SCENERY. 91 
 
 half-past nine next morning, and resting awhile 
 at Washoo, entered Chaki in the afternoon. 
 The appearance of the country traversed dif- 
 fered but little from that which has already been 
 described as seen on the road to Chiadoo, with 
 the exception of its being, if possible, yet more 
 varied, and wearing an aspect of still deeper and 
 sterner beauty ; hill rising above hill, and rock 
 above rock, in proud magnificence. In some 
 places huge blocks of naked granite seemed split 
 as if by the hands of giants, leaving frightful 
 chasms, the bottoms of which could not be dis- 
 tinctly seen ; and in others detached fragments, 
 irregularly scattered over the country, looking 
 wildly and negligently grand, inspired the 
 strongest belief that they had been forcibly rent 
 asunder, at a remote era, by some dreadful con- 
 vulsion of nature. 
 
 The air on the mountains is cooler, clearer, 
 and more salubrious than in the plains below, 
 and the inhabitants seemed to enjoy better 
 health, and as we were informed lived to a 
 more advanced age than their countrymen of 
 the vallies. We* were every where received on
 
 92 TOWN OF CHAKI. 
 
 the road with acclamations and songs of wel- 
 come ; and as soon as our little party was dis- 
 cerned, all labour immediately ceased. The peo- 
 ple assembling in groups of from three or four 
 to fifty, approached as near as the rocks would 
 permit them ; and doffing their caps, they greeted 
 us as we passed, wishing us a pleasant journey to 
 their sovereign at Katunga. 
 
 On the top of the highest hill of the whole 
 ridge is perched the populous town of Cheki, at 
 an immense elevation from the plains, the ap- 
 proach to which is by a winding path, more 
 steep and rugged than any we had before met 
 with, and up which we were obliged positively 
 to climb on our hands and knees. The chief, 
 who may be styled a petty king, having a consi- 
 derable number of towns, and many thousands 
 of people under his protection and command, 
 was seated outside of his house, under its ve- 
 randah, surrounded by about a hundred of his 
 wives, and musicians with drums and fifes. On 
 our approach the latter struck up a native air, 
 the ladies keeping time with their feet, and ac- 
 companying the instruments with their voices,
 
 CHIEF OF CHAKI. 93 
 
 which were so loud and shrill that the sound 
 rent the air. To this voluptuous music we were 
 obliged to listen for the space of an hour, when 
 it ceased, and we took the opportunity of pay- 
 ing our respects to the chief, and being com- 
 pletely tired, were conducted to a large hut 
 which had been prepared for our reception. 
 No sooner had we been fairly housed, however, 
 than we were visited, first by several of the in- 
 habitants, whose curiosity was irksome and 
 painful to us, and next by the chief in person, 
 who drank tea, and remained with us till a very 
 late hour, asking us innumerable questions about 
 England, and listening with the most mortifying 
 attention, and intolerable patience, to all we 
 chose to tell him. His countenance was open 
 and pleasing, and in many of his observations he 
 displayed a degree of acuteness and penetration 
 that startled us. We were treated by this chief 
 with a kindness, remarkable even amongst his 
 countrymen, and, under his hospitable roof, we 
 almost forgot all our misfortunes. 
 
 Arising early on Saturday, the 14th, though 
 pressed to remain by every inducement that
 
 94 TOWN OF KOOFO. 
 
 could be thought of, we departed from Chaki 
 at eight o'clock, attended by the mountain- 
 chief, with upwards of two hundred of his 
 wives, and a long train of people. Passing for 
 the first time through several Falatah villages, 
 whose inhabitants were chiefly employed in the 
 occupations of pasturage and agriculture, Mr. 
 Houtson and myself entered the walled town 
 of Koofo at one, and about an hour after 
 Captain Clapperton was brought into the town 
 on a hammock, being still severely indisposed. 
 Several extensive cotton plantations lay near 
 the road, and the soil, generally speaking, was 
 clear of wood, and tolerably well cultivated. 
 The town of Koofo has a double wall, and is 
 the largest we had noticed, containing, in all 
 probability, fully twenty thousand inhabitants. 
 We were saluted with the usual demonstrations 
 of African welcome on entering the gates ; and 
 in the afternoon of our arrival, and the next 
 day, the spacious court or yard with which we 
 were accommodated was literally crammed with 
 people of both sexes, and of all ages ; and their 
 impertinent curiosity it was utterly impossible
 
 SOCCASOO. 95 
 
 to satisfy. As soon as one party had stayed 
 as long as they thought proper, another sup- 
 plied its place, in such rapid succession, that, 
 till the evening of each day had been pretty far 
 advanced, we had not a moment to call our 
 own. 
 
 The further we penetrated into the country, 
 the more dense we found the population to be, 
 and civilization became at every step more 
 strikingly apparent. Large towns at the dis- 
 tance of only a few miles from each other, 
 we were informed lay on all sides of us, the 
 inhabitants of which pay the greatest respect 
 to the laws, and live under a regular form of 
 government. 
 
 Captain Clapper ton, finding himself stronger 
 and better, ventured to leave Koofo on horse- 
 back, on Monday at eight o'clock A. M., and 
 after two hours' travelling through a well cul- 
 tivated and delightful country, studded with 
 pleasant Falatah hamlets, we arrived at Soc- 
 casoo. In this town, our messenger having 
 gormandized on a leg of pork, was taken so 
 sick that he either could not or would not
 
 96 REVOLT OF THE HOUSSAS. 
 
 proceed, and as we durst not go on without 
 him, we were obliged to abide in the place till 
 the following day. 
 
 The opinion that the white men were come 
 as " messengers of peace " was general in the 
 country, and implicitly believed by all ranks. 
 Two years previously to our landing from the 
 Brazen, the Houssa slaves belonging to the Sul- 
 tan of Yariba had rebelled against their sove- 
 reign, and, fleeing into the woods, had built 
 themselves a considerable town, no more than 
 two days' journey from the capital (Katunga), 
 which they called Lori. In it they strongly en- 
 trenched themselves, and, by the addition of 
 numbers of their straggling countrymen, who 
 willingly flocked to their standard, had become 
 so formidable in a short time, that they had suc- 
 cessfully resisted all the attempts of his Yari- 
 bean Majesty to re-enslave them, and maintained 
 their independence against the force of an em- 
 pire. About the time of our journeying into 
 the interior, it was reported that the insurgents 
 had recently been reinforced by a large body of 
 Falatah horsemen, which proved in fact to be
 
 DEPARTURE FROM SOCCASOO. &7 
 
 the case, and the news had struck so great a 
 panic into the minds of the people of Yariba, 
 that those residing in the vicinity of the mutinous 
 slaves had emigrated to more remote provinces. 
 Hence the anxious solicitation of every one, that 
 as " messengers of peace," we should compro- 
 mise matters between their monarch and his re- 
 fractory vassals, which course could alone inspire 
 the people with the hope of preserving their lives 
 and property. The Houssas had already begun 
 to act on the offensive, and had made frequent 
 incursions, even to the dwellings of their former 
 masters, sacking and setting fire to their towns, 
 and laying their country waste. 
 
 On Tuesday the 17th we left Soccasoo, and 
 changing horses at the town of Ladooli, halted 
 at Hadjidibbah, where, both my master and Mr. 
 Houtson becoming sick and ill, we rested for three 
 hours. We then again set forward, the path ly- 
 ing through a forest of stunted trees; and reach- 
 ing Akkibosa in the afternoon, slept there that 
 night. In the course of the morning we had 
 passed several villages, two or three of which 
 were in ruins, having been partly burnt by the 
 
 VOL. i. F
 
 98 AFRICAN MEDICINE. 
 
 Houssas, and deserted by their original inha- 
 bitants. 
 
 The atmosphere was close and sultry on our 
 setting out on the morning of Wednesday, and 
 continued so during the journey. About two 
 hours' travelling brought us to the walled town 
 of Adja, the entrance to which is through a spa- 
 cious avenue of noble trees. Here we were obliged 
 to stop for the remainder of the day, because 
 the inhabitants were at work in the plantations. 
 At an early hour on Thursday, the chief, who 
 had been informed the previous evening of the 
 complaint under which Captain Clapperton 
 laboured, came with a dose of medicine for him 
 to take ; but after swallowing it my master be- 
 came so dreadfully ill, that Mr. Houtson, as 
 well as myself, suspected that poison had been 
 administered to him. In this conjecture, how- 
 ever, we were happily deceived ; for in about 
 two hours the pain, which had been occasioned 
 by the potion together with his former ailment, 
 suddenly left him in an extraordinary manner, af- 
 ter which, he expressed himself in perfect health, 
 and ready to proceed. We arrived at Layboo 

 
 TOWN OF ATEEPA. 99 
 
 at one o'clock the same day, having seen on the 
 road five towns, two or three of which were 
 walled, and of no inconsiderable extent. 
 
 At six next morning we were again in mo- 
 tion, and halting at the village of Bougboug at 
 seven, and at Leogalla, a Falatah town, at eight 
 o'clock, arrived at Ateepa at twelve at noon. 
 The country traversed was agreeably diversified 
 by hills of gentle and gradual ascent, and fertile 
 vallies, cultivated with yams, corn, bananas, &c. 
 Ateepa, like most towns of any magnitude in 
 the country, is furnished with a strong wall, 
 made of earth, and a belt of trees within it, 
 which, by reason of a thorny creeping shrub 
 clinging round the trunks, like the ivy to the 
 oak, and throwing out vigorous shoots, had be- 
 come so thickly entangled as to form a secure 
 barrier, which, except by the narrow gateway at 
 the entrance, was impervious to man and beast. 
 On Saturday we departed from Ateepa, at- 
 tended by the chief and a long train of the 
 male inhabitants, to defend us from any attack- 
 that the Eorghoo robbers might feel disposed to 
 make on so insignificant a party as ourselves. 
 r2
 
 100 ESCORT FROM LEOBADDA. 
 
 At Nannah, a considerable walled town, we 
 changed carriers ; and its chief, copying the ex- 
 ample of him of Ateepa, joined our procession 
 also, with a strong party, having the same bene- 
 volent object in view, and escorted us to Leo- 
 badda, where each of the chiefs drank a glass of 
 grog, and returned with their attendants to their 
 respective towns. Leobadda stands close to 
 some huge masses of pale granite rocks, broken 
 into irregular fragments, and has a wall of pro- 
 digious thickness. Its population is from six 
 to seven thousand souls, who all seemed to 
 be contentedly poor, invariably happy. The 
 same generous hospitality which had so emi- 
 nently characterised their countrymen, was dis- 
 played by the inhabitants of Leobadda, even in the 
 midst of poverty and rags, with an alacrity and 
 cheerfulness that redound greatly to their credit, 
 and speak volumes in their praise. 
 
 At seven o'clock on Sunday, the chief, with 
 many of his people, assembled in front of our 
 house, and accompanied us for some miles. On 
 the road we met several hundreds of men, women, 
 and children, with heavy loads on their heads,
 
 VILLAGES BURNT BY FALATAH. 101 
 
 who had been travelling the whole of the pre- 
 ceding night, and who appeared so greatly fa- 
 tigued, as scarcely to be able to drag their lazy 
 limbs after them. They were carefully watched 
 by overseers (one of whom was appointed to each 
 fifty), who were all armed, either with short 
 swords, or bows and arrows, and made the weary 
 travellers quicken their pace by threats of punish- 
 ment whenever they observed them loitering on 
 the way. We passed in the course of the jour- 
 ney, several villages which had been burnt and 
 destroyed by Falatahs ; the walls were overgrown 
 with weeds, and the trees, which a short time 
 before had afforded a grateful and refreshing 
 shade to the inhabitants, seared by the confla- 
 gration, and standing blighted and withering, as 
 solitary memorials of the awful manner in which 
 those once flourishing towns had been converted 
 into waste and desolate places. At noon we de- 
 scended into a delightful valley, situated in the bo- 
 som of a ridge of rocks, which effectually hid it 
 from observation till one approached almost close 
 to it. It was intersected with whimpering streams 
 and purling rills, the elegant palm, and the broad
 
 102 GLEN NEAR TSCHOW. 
 
 leaved banana, covered with foliage, embellish- 
 ing the sheltered and beautifully romantic spot. 
 In the centre was a sheet of water, resembling 
 an artificial pond, in which were numbers of 
 young maidens from the neighbouring town of 
 Tschow, some of them reposing at full length 
 on its verdant banks, and some frisking and 
 basking in the sun-beams, whilst others of their 
 companions were sporting with the Naiads of 
 the sacred stream ; but all of them visibly de- 
 lighted with the pleasant recreations which they 
 were enjoying so prettily and innocently. We 
 stood for a season gazing on them with pleasure; 
 but no sooner were our white faces observed by 
 the young ladies, than their amusements in- 
 stantly ceased, and the sable beauties simulta- 
 neously rushing from the water, snatched up 
 their apparel, and with their uncovered asso- 
 ciates, concealing their faces with their hands, 
 ran away and hid themselves behind the trunks 
 of trees, looking as coy and bashful as did their 
 mother Eve in the garden of Eden. 
 
 Leaving that lovely glen with regret, we ar- 
 rived at Tschow, a walled town, with a good
 
 ESCORT FROM YAR1BA. 103 
 
 population, at two o'clock. As soon as we could 
 be accommodated with a house, we began clean- 
 ing our guns and pistols, as the roads to Katunga 
 were, we had been repeatedly informed, in- 
 fested with numerous bands of desperadoes, 
 whose success and boldness had terrified, to an 
 alarming degree, the peaceable and timid in- 
 habitants. 
 
 On the evening of our arrival, the expected 
 escort from the Sultan of Yariba entered the 
 town. It consisted of two hundred horsemen, 
 and double that number on foot, commanded 
 by a war-chief, and armed with spears, and 
 bows and arrows ; all most grotesquely attired, 
 some flouncing in handsome robes, and some 
 fluttering in rags. From the moment of their 
 arrival to the period of our departure, we had 
 not a moment's quiet. They paraded the town 
 all night, vociferously bellowing the happiness 
 they felt, or pretended to feel, on meeting with 
 the white men serenaded us with a concert of 
 drums, flutes, and trumpets, with powerful 
 vocal accompaniments, and kept shouting and 
 hallooing till we arose in the morning.
 
 104 YARJBA ESCORT. 
 
 All was hurry and confusion as we prepared 
 to depart, and our escort soon getting them- 
 selves in readiness, we bade adieu to the chief 
 of Tschow, and started from the town about six 
 o'clock, accompanied by a great number of mer- 
 chants and others, who cheerfully embraced the 
 opportunity of putting themselves under our 
 protection. Nothing could be more animated 
 than the appearance of our boisterous conduc- 
 tors, winding their way up a narrow and crooked 
 path ; the horsemen with their long spears, clear- 
 ing the road, and hurrying onwards as fast as 
 their jaded and diminutive beasts could walk 
 with them ; and the bowmen on foot, with their 
 instruments slung across their shoulders, and 
 quiver full of arrows, appended to their sides, 
 plodding after them with all imaginable haste. 
 But by far the most amusing, if not the most 
 important part of that strange and singular 
 cavalcade, were the musicians themselves, who 
 found it no easy matter to keep pace with their 
 more lively countrymen, and perform on their 
 instruments at the same time. The drummers, 
 flourishing their sticks with a scornful, conse-
 
 CITY OF KATUNGA. 105 
 
 quential air; the trumpeters with their black 
 bloated cheeks shining with fat ; and the fifers 
 turning up the whites of their eyes towards hea- 
 ven,and producing altogetherthe most discordant, 
 most terrific sounds tliat can be conceived, were 
 highly ludicrous ; nor could we, in spite of our- 
 selves, maintain a becoming gravity, or help 
 being infinitely diverted every time that we ven- 
 tured to look back, and steal a glance at our 
 never-enough-to-be-admired lovers of harmony ! 
 
 We halted near a village called Achoran at 
 nine o'clock, but the baggage being at some dis- 
 tance behind, we left it to the care of the chiefs, 
 and proceeded with a hundred of the escort, (the 
 road in many places rugged and overshadowed 
 with the branches of trees,) and crossed a stream 
 flowing to the Quorra about an hour after. 
 
 At eleven at noon, on attaining the summit 
 of a lofty ridge, we came in sight of the city of 
 Katunga, lying to the south of us, at the base 
 of a granite mountain, and apparently embo- 
 somed in beautiful trees. Between the ridge 
 and the city was a fertile valley, highly cultiva- 
 ted, and extending to the westward as far as the 
 
 F5
 
 106 KING MANSOLAH. 
 
 eye could reach ; while the view to the eastward 
 was bounded by a gigantic rock, shivered into 
 fragments, and at no great distance from the 
 place on which we stood. An hour's easy rid- 
 ing brought us to the north gate of the metro- 
 polis of Yariba, outside of which were a fetish- 
 hut, and a few private habitations ; and on en- 
 tering it we took up our abode for the time, at 
 the residence of one of the chiefs of the escort. 
 
 As soon as the remainder of the convoy with 
 the baggage had arrived, the intelligence was 
 immediately transmitted to Mansolah, the King, 
 from whom we presently received a warm 
 invitation. After a ride of full five miles 
 through the streets of Katunga, in which we 
 were attended by the escort and musicians, who 
 created so thick a cloud of dust that it had well 
 nigh suffocated us, we at length reached the 
 king's palace. His majesty was seated under 
 the verandah, with two umbrellas spread over 
 him, and surrounded by above four hundred of 
 his wives, with many of his caboceers and other 
 great men. Dismounting at the distance of 
 twenty yards, we walked up almost close to the
 
 KING MANSOLAH. 107 
 
 umbrellas, when Mansolah arose, and very cor- 
 dially shook hands with each of us, welcoming 
 us to his kingdom with a broad grin, lifting up 
 our hands three several times, and each time ex- 
 claiming " Ako ! ako ! " which means literally 
 " How do you do ? " The multitude, the chiefs, 
 and -the king's ladies, seemed equally pleased 
 with their good-humoured sovereign at our vi- 
 sit, and displayed the warmth of their feelings 
 by acclamations, shaking of hands, and smiles 
 and encouraging glances. Before our dismissal 
 his majesty enquired more particularly after our 
 respective healths, but made few other observa- 
 tions. In the evening he visited us at our 
 house, attended by his eunuchs and women, and, 
 simply asking how we did, left us with the hope 
 of seeing us again the ne 
 
 ti itrot aw
 
 108 
 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 W73:b!V /(-//-> ?!.;;'".* l> - 
 
 Residence at Katunga Ebo the eunuch Pantomimic represen- 
 tation by the Yaribeans Departure from the city of Katun- 
 ga Arrival at Khiama Wow Wow Manners of the people 
 Boussa Mungo Park. 
 
 WE remained at Katunga exactly seven weeks ; 
 the king, on various frivolous pretexts, refusing 
 to grant us permission to depart before. During 
 all this time each of us enjoyed but indifferent 
 health, Captain Clapperton in particular being 
 oftentimes so severely indisposed as to be una- 
 ble either to walk or ride ; nevertheless we were 
 treated with the utmost civility and kindness by 
 the people generally. The king himself visited 
 us almost every day, and never came without an 
 acceptable present of provisions ; while his ca- 
 boceers behaved with a still nobler generosity, 
 insomuch that if it had not been for the mal-
 
 EBO, THE EUNUCH. 109 
 
 practices of a sly, lubberly, fat, monstrous eu- 
 nuch, named Ebo, to whose care was entrusted 
 our provisions, and whose ravenous appetite was 
 proverbial in the city, we should have been lite- 
 rally crammed with every delicacy both of the 
 country and season. That old gormand had a 
 paunch of a most awful size, which he contrived 
 to keep in excellent condition by partaking 
 largely of the good things intended for our use, 
 which he purloined in a daring and impudent 
 manner, and devoured when alone and at lei- 
 sure. Not content with secreting the choicest 
 articles, he made so serious an impression even 
 on the bare necessaries of life, that we were not 
 unfrequently kept on short allowance. 
 
 On one occasion we detected him in the very 
 act of concealing some ducks, eggs, and honey, 
 which we knew beforehand had been sent him 
 for our consumption ; and we taxed him with the 
 robbery to his face. Ebo, however, disclaimed 
 the imputation with earnestness, and maintained 
 his innocence with considerable volubility. On 
 our entrance he held a bottle of rum in one 
 hand, to which he had been evidently paying
 
 110 EBO'S DISHONESTY. 
 
 his devotions, whilst the other was occupied in 
 shuffling something under a mat. It was no 
 doubt the eunuch's intention to take another 
 draught of the inspiring liquid, whilst thus em- 
 ployed, but, mistaking the hand in which it was 
 held, he snatched the other from underneath 
 the mat, and had actually the head of our duck 
 in his mouth, instead of the bottle, before the 
 error was discovered. This it was which he had 
 taken so much pains to hide from our sight, 
 and the ludicrous misconception of the fellow 
 caused us infinite diversion. As for the eunuch, 
 he was not the least disconcerted ; and although 
 we discovered the honey and eggs also con- 
 cealed in another part of his house, he roundly 
 asserted that he had purchased them at the 
 market the day before. Complaints were made 
 to the king of his conduct, without producing a 
 beneficial effect upon the gormandizing Ebo, 
 who continued to feed without mercy on our 
 provisions, while his paunch maintained its 
 usual enviable state of rotundity and bulk, at 
 the expense of our empty stomachs. 
 
 Captain Clapperton diverted the people of
 
 PEOPLE OF KATUNGA. Ill 
 
 Katunga by a display of rockets at different 
 times; this was the only means we had of 
 making ourselves in the least degree the instru- 
 ments of pleasure to them in return for their 
 good nature; and this they appeared to enjoy 
 with all the zest that a novelty generally inspires 
 in the breasts of savages, even after it had ceased 
 to be a novelty. At first the spectators were 
 terrified with the exhibition, but familiarity with 
 it soon wore off that impression, and they never 
 appeared satisfied with gazing at our artificial 
 fire-works. The inhabitants, on their part, with 
 their sovereign at their head, endeavoured to 
 prolong our stay with them by straining every 
 nerve to please, and beguiled the time by all 
 the amusements they could think of. Amongst 
 other allurements held out by Mansolah towards 
 this end, that of seeing him as a king, which 
 would shortly be the case, was repeatedly urged 
 with much warmth. " You behold me now, 
 only as a poor man," observed his majesty, "but 
 by and by I shall be a king indeed." 
 
 A womanish fondness for dress and admira- 
 tion, and a childish vanity in the most trivial as
 
 112 KING MANSOLAH. 
 
 well as more important concerns, were strikingly 
 visible in the character of every prince we metwith 
 in Africa ; nor did the monarch of Yariba think 
 these frivolities beneath him, any more than his 
 royal neighbours ; but in his case there was mixed 
 up with this weakness, a certain consciousness of 
 the absurdity of it, which I never observed in the 
 character of any other African whatever. Man- 
 solah only conformed to the whims and fancies of 
 his people, he said, when he attired himself so 
 fancifully ; for that they preferred a ruler with 
 a smart and gorgeous exterior, even if he 
 happened to be the most odious tyrant on the 
 face of the earth, to a prince meanly dressed, 
 although he were endowed with every amiable 
 quality. It was not, therefore, in compliance 
 with his own inclination that he had accepted, 
 with so great apparent satisfaction, the trinkets 
 we had given him for the adornment of his per- 
 son, but solely to please his subjects, to whose 
 taste he always accommodated himself. Against 
 these philosophical expressions of the Sultan of 
 Yariba, however, his conduct and actions sadly 
 militated, for he smiled with delight on be-
 
 PEOPLE OF KATUNGA. 113 
 
 holding a brass watch-chain he liad -received 
 of us,' his eyes sparkled with rapture at the 
 sight of a gold-headed cane Captain Clapperton 
 had offered for his acceptance ; while a necklace 
 of large handsome coral beads positively threw 
 him into a transport of joy. 
 
 The same eager curiosity that had been dis- 
 played on the road from Badagry, was evinced 
 by the people of Katunga; but there was no 
 boldness, no impudence, no daring effrontery, 
 with the latter ; they every where made way for 
 us to pass, when either curiosity or the desire of 
 exercise induced us to walk through their town, 
 or its environs, and retreating to a short dis- 
 tance, made a profound obeisance, and in some 
 cases even went so far as to prostrate themselves 
 in the dust before us, although these were acts 
 of humiliation we never countenanced nor ap- 
 proved of. The more respectable part of the 
 inhabitants, on meeting with us in the streets, 
 used to run up to shake hands, with as much 
 cordiality as if they had known us from our child- 
 hood ; and would very kindly enquire after our 
 healths, not merely for the sake of having some-
 
 114 PEOPLE OF KATUNGA. 
 
 thing to say, as is the case in England, but 
 prompted by an interest and concern they could 
 not disguise. We felt assured that their motive 
 for asking sprang from a sincere desire of know- 
 ing, in order that they might sympathise with 
 us if we were ill, or congratulate us if we en- 
 joyed tolerable health. 
 
 The strong desire Mansolah felt and expressed 
 for us to remain at least for a few months with 
 him, made that prince guilty, on more than one 
 occasion, of dissimulation, and even falsehood, 
 which detracts greatly from his merit, for in 
 other respects he was a generous, sensible, good 
 natured man. He was fruitful in expedients 
 against our setting out, and used every means 
 that ingenuity could suggest, to counteract our 
 intentions of prosecuting our journey ; at one 
 time alleging that the Falatahs, (who had joined 
 a party in a civil war that was then raging in 
 Nyffe, between two princes, who were disputing 
 the right of succession to their deceased father's 
 throne,) intercepted all communication between 
 that country, through which it was our intention to 
 pass, and Yariba, or rather Katunga, its capital;
 
 PEOPLE OF KATUNGA. 115 
 
 and at another time asserting that he had sent 
 messengers to Yarro, one of his own provinces, 
 to ascertain whether the road was clear in that 
 direction ; for he was determined, he said, not 
 to be instrumental towards our falling into the 
 hands of the Falatahs. His assertion, with re- 
 gard to the war in Nyffe, proved indeed to be 
 correct ; but for some indefinable reason, be- 
 sides those adduced, he was excessively jealous 
 of our having the least intercourse with the Fa- 
 latahs, his most inveterate enemies, who, as he 
 repeatedly and feelingly expressed himself, " had 
 torn down his father's house." 
 
 Amongst the amusements of the inhabitants 
 of Katunga, dancing and tumbling hold a pro- 
 minent rank. With respect to the latter diver- 
 sion, they cannot be excelled by any people in 
 the world ; their evolutions in the air are per- 
 fectly astonishing, and by the suppleness and 
 pliability of their limbs, by their bending, and 
 turning, and twisting themselves into all manner 
 of shapes, one would be almost inclined to be- 
 lieve that they have not a single bone in their 
 bodies.
 
 116 AMUSEMENTS AT KATUNGA. 
 
 During our stay at Katunga we were wit- 
 nesses to a kind of pantomime, which amusement 
 the inhabitants generally prefer, in honor of the 
 caboceers, whenever they pay a visit to the king, 
 as was the case in that instance. The place 
 chosen for the exhibition was a large enclosure, 
 contiguous to the king's residence, covered with 
 verdure, and as level as a bowling-green. It 
 was rendered particularly pleasant by the re- 
 freshing shade afforded by clumps of tall trees, 
 which studded the spot in all directions. Two 
 huge shapeless rocks of crumbling granite marked 
 the limits of the play-ground to the south ; the 
 king's house those to the north ; and a range of 
 trees intercepted the view to the east and west. 
 A lofty fan-palm-tree grew in the centre of the 
 place, under the branches of which the actors 
 were accommodated; and a temporary fence, 
 erected round its trunk, screened them from ob- 
 servation, whenever they chose to remain con- 
 cealed. 
 
 A most astounding din from drums, horns, 
 and whistles, was the signal for the performers 
 to begin their manoeuvres. The first act con-
 
 AMUSEMENTS AT KATUNGA. 117 
 
 sisted of dancing, capering, and tumbling by 
 about twenty men, enveloped in sacks, which 
 novel and elegant divertisement was continued 
 with admirable spirit for a full half hour, when 
 the contents of the sacks becoming fatigued, 
 bundled themselves back to the palm-tree. 
 
 The second act commenced almost immedi- 
 ately after, with attempting to catch the boa con- 
 strictor. To effect this object, one of the danc- 
 ing sacks came out of the place of its conceal- 
 ment, and fell gently and most conveniently to 
 the ground, when a monstrous mishapen figure, 
 with a head-dress resembling in size and shape 
 a common English wash-tray, from which 
 streamed a variety of strips of scarlet damask 
 and country cloth, slowly approached the re- 
 cumbent sack from behind the fence. The 
 figure was of most gigantic stature, and changed 
 its appearance as often as the enchanted Turk 
 in our puppet-shows. It held in its hand a 
 sword, and by its motions, as well as the com- 
 manding attitude it assumed over the other 
 actors, appeared to be the director of the pa- 
 geant. Another fellow in a sack was then
 
 118 AMUSEMENTS AT KATUNGA. 
 
 brought out, and being placed bolt upright by the 
 side of the figure, by the application of a slight 
 blow, fell near to its peaceable companion, and 
 by a little shifting contrived to get its head close 
 to that of the other. The mouths of the two 
 sacks having been previously unsewn, the con- 
 tents of the one crawled into the other, and 
 after these formalities the representation of the 
 boa presently began. The reptile at first thrust 
 its head out of the bag and attempted to lay 
 hold of the tremendous figure, who contrived, 
 dexterously enough, to make it draw itself into 
 the sack again by a flourish of his weapon, which 
 the knowing animal appeared to understand 
 perfectly well. The head of the boa was then 
 jutted out in a different direction, and by de- 
 grees the whole body protruded itself from the 
 place of its confinement into open day light, 
 and remained exposed for a few seconds to the 
 gaze of the multitude. It appeared to be about 
 fourteen feet in length, and by reason of the 
 painted cloth with which it was covered, might 
 easily be mistaken for the animal it was intended 
 to represent The angry monster, after a short
 
 AMUSEMENTS AT KATUNCiA. 119 
 
 pause, pursued the fantastical figure with the 
 sword, rather slowly, to be sure, but withal very 
 naturally going through the motions of a snake 
 by coiling itself round like a rope, opening and 
 shutting its jaws, and darting out its forked 
 tongue ; all of which elicited the rapturous ap- 
 plauses of the bystanders. But the pursued, 
 although it never was at a greater distance from 
 the reptile than a few feet, never had the cou- 
 rage to come in contact with its fangs. At 
 length, at a given signal by the manager, the 
 whole troop of actors rushed to the spot ; they 
 were then sackless, but their features were effec- 
 tually concealed by masks reaching to the bosom. 
 The figure then began to act on the offensive, 
 by chopping the irritated monster's tail with his 
 weapon in a shocking and most unmerciful man- 
 ner. The snake apparently writhed in agony, 
 and convulsively twisting its body for a few 
 moments, whilst it endeavoured, without effect, 
 to be revenged on its formidable advei-sary by 
 extending its neck to bite ; when life seeming to 
 be nearly extinguished, it was borne off on the 
 shoulders of the actors to the fetish-house.
 
 120 AMUSEMENTS AT KATUNGA. 
 
 The third and last part of this extraordinary 
 ceremony, consisted in the representation of the 
 caricature of a white man. One of the sack- 
 dancers, placed by himself on a clear spot of 
 ground, near to the palm-tree, gradually de- 
 tached his covering, and exposed the figure of a 
 man, of a chalky whiteness, to the fixed looks 
 of the people, who set up so terrific a shout of 
 approbation that it startled us, prepared as we 
 had been to expect some such explosion. The 
 figure walked but indifferently well, and mi- 
 micked our actions as badly ; the composition 
 with which it was bedaubed, evidently prevent- 
 ing the actor from using his limbs freely, or per- 
 forming his part with the facility he could have 
 wished; although his embarrassment was ap- 
 parent to us, yet the populace did not seem to 
 take the least notice of this defect, and an univer- 
 sal roar of laughter expressed the delight which 
 filled every bosom. The pantomimic incident 
 had now attained its utmost bounds, and all 
 eyes, swimming in tears, were directed first to 
 us, and then to the intended representation of 
 us, as much as to say, " what a faithful and
 
 DEATH OF MR. HOUTSON. 121 
 
 striking resemblance ! *' We entered most cor- 
 dially into the good humour of the moment, not 
 so much on account of the clumsy and unsightly 
 figure before us, as to see a vast circle of white 
 teeth grinning at the same moment, and pro- 
 ducing an irresistibly ludicrous effect. After 
 exhibiting himself in this manner about an hour, 
 the white man was enveloped in his sack, and 
 borne, like the serpent, to the fetish-house, 
 when the amusements ended, and the people 
 quietly dispersed. Between the acts we were 
 entertained with a concert of drums and whistles, 
 as well as country songs from the females who 
 were present, in the choruses of which the peo- 
 ple generally joined. 
 
 The Yarro messengers, of whom Mansolah had 
 spoken, having returned, and given a favor- 
 able report of the state of the roads, on Monday 
 the 6th of March, we bade adieu to Katunga, 
 its rulei*, and inhabitants, and pursued our jour- 
 ney, attended by the same escort that had con- 
 ducted us into the city. Mr. Houtson was left 
 behind, and returned to the coast, where he was 
 almost immediately seized with fever, and ex- 
 
 VOL. I. G
 
 122 LEAVE THE YARIBEAN TERRITORIES. 
 
 pired after an illness of only a few days. Our 
 party was therefore reduced to two Europeans 
 only, my master and myself. 
 
 We passed through several villages which had 
 been pillaged and burnt by the Falatahs, on the 
 following and three successive days ; and on the 
 llth we arrived at a mean dirty-looking village, 
 remarkable only as being the first in the Borg- 
 hoo country. 
 
 The huts of the inhabitants are constructed 
 in a circular form, after the Bornou fashion, and 
 their tops ornamented with crocodiles' eggs, 
 considered as an effectual protection against the 
 ravages of those animals, which are much 
 dreaded by all classes, but with what justice I 
 know not. We left the village at four o'clock 
 in the afternoon ; and the horse on which I rode 
 being in better condition than the others, I was 
 considerably in advance of the rest of the party, 
 when the animal made a sudden halt, and all 
 my endeavours were inadequate to make him 
 proceed. There he stood like a block of marble, 
 keeping his eyes rivetted on something that 
 was approaching us, and I had scarcely time
 
 BORGHOO. 123 
 
 to consider what it could possibly be, when a 
 fine antelope bounded before me with incredible 
 swiftness, and in the next moment two huge lions, 
 with mane and tail erect, crossed the path but a 
 couple of yards from the horse's head, almost 
 with equal speed, and covered with foam. A tre- 
 mendous roar, which made the forest tremble, in- 
 formed me in another minute that the lions had 
 overtaken their prey ; but the sudden and unex- 
 pected appearance of those ferocious animals 
 startled me as much as it had intimidated the 
 horse before, and I hastened back to the party, 
 my poor beast trembling violently the whole of 
 the way. Fortunately the lions, which were male 
 and female, were so eager in the chase, that both 
 the horse and its rider were unobserved by them ; 
 otherwise it might have gone hard with me, for 
 I saw not the slightest chance of escaping. We 
 halted in the woods that night; but fancying every 
 sound I heard was the roaring of a lion, I could 
 not compose myself to sleep. Next day I was 
 severely indisposed, and the party was obliged 
 to stop several times on the road on my account; 
 a languid faintness frequently overpowering me,
 
 124 KHIAMA. 
 
 and rendering me insensible to surrounding 
 objects. We put up at a town called Socka 
 for the night, and on the 13th an escort from 
 the king of Khiama arrived, mounted on excel- 
 lent horses, little inferior to the English breed : 
 but after delivering their monarch's message, the 
 fellows very unceremoniously began plundering 
 the villagers of goats, pigs, and poultry. The es- 
 cort consisted of fifty horsemen, bold, fierce-look- 
 ing fellows, more resembling a desperate band 
 of robbers than peaceably-disposed individuals. 
 
 Traversing a pleasant and fertile country, 
 we entered the city of Khiama about ten 
 in the morning, and were immediately con- 
 ducted to the house of his majesty, whom we 
 found sitting under the porch of his door, 
 chucking some of his young wives under the 
 chin. After shaking hands, he expressed a wish 
 for us to repose ourselves till the heat of the day 
 was over, and said he would pay us a visit in 
 the cool of the evening. 
 
 The king redeemed his pledge, and came at the 
 appointed time, riding on one of the handsomest 
 horses I ever saw. He was attended by numbers
 
 KING YARRO. 125 
 
 of people on horseback and on foot, and half a 
 dozen naked girls circling round the animal 
 on which he rode, flourishing spears with which 
 they were furnished, and singing, in a loud 
 voice, the praises of their husband and prince. 
 Yarro (that is the monarch's name) dismounted 
 and entered our house, followed by the girls, 
 who had left their weapons outside, and for 
 decency's sake had wrapped a piece of striped 
 cotton round their delicate waists. After an 
 hour's conversation, in the course of which Cap- 
 tain Clapperton informed him of our motives 
 for visiting his country, whither we intended to 
 go, &c. the king left us, infinitely pleased, and 
 the extraordinary procession returned in much 
 the same order as it had come. A few minutes 
 only had elapsed, when we were favored with a 
 visit from the chief of a Houssa gafflee, or cara- 
 van (returned the day before from Gonja and 
 Ashantee), and accompanied by a native of Bor- 
 nou, both of whom strongly advised us to quit 
 Khiama with as little delay as possible, asserting 
 that the inhabitants were thieves to a man, and 
 would not let slip the opportunity of putting
 
 126 THE GOORA NUT. 
 
 their pilfering propensity to the trial on our 
 goods and baggage. The Houssa caravan con- 
 sisted of about a thousand individuals of both 
 sexes, many of whom traded in the kola or 
 goora nut. This nut, which is in high esteem 
 and general use all through the interior, is fre- 
 quently 'applied to the same purpose as the ca- 
 lumet of peace amongst the North American 
 Indians, and is likewise used on all public occa- 
 sions to testify the good understanding that pre- 
 vails in the assembly : when presented to private 
 individuals, it signifies that there is peace between 
 the donor and receiver. The kola is the fruit of 
 a beautiful tree, growing in abundance on many 
 parts of the coast, and is an agreeable bitter and 
 astringent ; it also produces a rich yellow dye, 
 which is oftentimes used by the natives in the 
 embellishment of their persons. In some dis- 
 tricts the nut is exceedingly scarce, and fetches an 
 exhorbitant price ; hence the traffic in it is carried 
 on to an incredible extent, and yields an' immense 
 profit to those who are venturesome enough to 
 risk the dangers of a long and perilous journey. 
 Having been provided with a messenger,
 
 DEPARTURE FROM KHIAMA. 127 
 
 carriers, and horses, we quitted Khiama on the 
 18th, without experiencing, whilst in the city, 
 any of the incoveniences we had been led to ap- 
 prehend the Houssa caravan had left Tis an 
 hour or two previously, to proceed on the same 
 road as ourselves. In the course of the morning 
 we passed through two villages, excessively 
 clean, inhabited by Falatahs, who were chiefly 
 employed in pounding corn in wooden mortars; 
 and sleeping at Bonaga, we overtook the caravan 
 on Sunday the 19th. It was composed of a 
 long line of horsemen, and people of both sexes 
 on foot, loaded with bundles, both men and 
 beasts apparently heartily tired with their long 
 march. The women with them, as in every 
 other instance that came within the compass of 
 our own observation, bore the heaviest burdens, 
 and seemed actually sinking to the earth with 
 heat and fatigue, without exciting the compas- 
 sion, or obtaining the assistance of the ruder 
 and stronger companions of their journey; 
 although several of the latter had little else to do 
 besides keeping pace with the horses. We slept
 
 128 MODE OF HUNTING. 
 
 in a wood, under a tree, for the night, about 
 half a mile from the Gonja traders. 
 
 The country travelled over since we had left 
 Katunga differed but slightly from the descrip- 
 tions which have already been given of the other 
 parts; the soil generally consisting of a rich 
 reddish loam, intermixed with fine gravel. In 
 some places it is thickly wooded, but in others 
 not more than a dozen trees are to be found on 
 an acre of land ; on all sides, however, it is 
 highly picturesque and beautiful. 
 
 Numerous traces of antelopes, elephants, &c. 
 were observable in the path ; but (except in the 
 instance before mentioned) we saw but few of 
 those animals. The natives hunt the former, 
 and with spears and poisoned arrows contrive to 
 procure great numbers of them. The arrow is 
 a speedy and effectual means of destroying wild 
 animals ; for being tipped with poison, the wound 
 it inflicts is sure to prove mortal, although not 
 quite so instantaneously as the natives would 
 make one believe. The flesh of antelopes slain 
 in this manner is eaten with avidity by the peo- 
 ple, the hunters simply cutting off the parts
 
 A NATIVE HUNTSMAN. 129 
 
 near which the arrow may happen to penetrate. 
 When this vegetable poison is taken internally 
 it produces no pernicious effects, and it is only 
 when it mingles with the blood that its conse- 
 quences are so fatal. The natives, who, like the 
 vulgar in Europe, are fond of the wonderful, 
 tell a thousand singular stories respecting its ma- 
 lignancy, which are too improbable and ridicu- 
 lous to be believed. 
 
 At Barakina, a small but pleasant village, we 
 met a hunter, clad in a leopard's skin, returning 
 from the chase, with his bow and arrows slung 
 on his shoulder, and a light spear in his hand ; 
 a man with a dead antelope followed at a little 
 distance; and three panting hounds, whose 
 tongues, lolling out of their mouths, betrayed the 
 severity of the exercise they had undergone, 
 came after the man. The sable Nimrod took 
 not the least notice of us, but passed through 
 the village as incuriously as if he had been in the 
 habit of seeing white faces every day. 
 
 At twelve at noon on the same day we crossed 
 a river said to take its rise in NyfFe, and to 
 flow into the Niger above Rakah. Alligators 
 
 G5
 
 130 WOW WOWNESE ESCORT. 
 
 were plentiful in the river, and one of our car- 
 riers, who was sent to fetch a calabash of water, 
 was pursued by one of these monsters almost up 
 to the trees under which our little party was en- 
 camped. The poor fellow was terribly fright- 
 ened, and out of breath, on approaching us; 
 and not all the promises in the world could 
 induce him to make a second visit to the river. 
 
 Our ears were ravished by the warbling of 
 hundreds of small birds, which, with parrots and 
 parroquets, peopled the branches of the trees in 
 the vicinity of the stream, whose delightful 
 banks were thereby overshadowed ; and the eye 
 was incessantly saluted with a variety of beauti- 
 ful objects groves of noble trees, verdant hills, 
 and smiling plains, through which the river 
 winded, carrying fertility and beauty in its 
 course, and altogether forming a rich and charm- 
 ing landscape. 
 
 We slept at Billa, a village on the south side 
 of the river, in the night; and on the morning 
 of Tuesday an escort of four horsemen arrived 
 from the chief, or King of Wow Wow, to 
 conduct us to that city, where we arrived after a
 
 KINGS OF WOW WOW. 131 
 
 journey of four hours, and took our station out- 
 side the monarch's house, till its royal inmate, 
 who was dressing to receive us, should make his 
 appearance. After putting our patience to a se- 
 vere trial, the King at length came out, sup- 
 ported on a staff, and walking with the solemn 
 pace of a Spaniard up to our tree, seated him- 
 self on a stool that had been previously placed 
 there for that purpose. We then dismounted, 
 but were sorely dismayed on observing the chief, 
 contrary to the custom of the country, shrink- 
 ing from our hands which were extended to- 
 wards him, just with as much repugnance as a 
 European would from the proffered hand of a 
 leper ; but it was only to cover his with his tobe, 
 which being done, he shook hands with the ut- 
 most cordiality. The King being a Mohamme- 
 dan, fancied that the touch of a Christian would 
 defile him ; but this stiffness wore off on a more 
 familiar acquaintance, and he subsequently dis- 
 played the characteristic virtues of Africans 
 generally hospitality and benevolence. 
 
 In the evening we were visited by fifteen Da- 
 homans, who saluted us with a discharge from
 
 132 wow wow. 
 
 two old rusty muskets. These men had been 
 for five months beforehand assisting the Sultan 
 of Youri in his war with the Falatahs, and were 
 so far on their return to their own country. 
 They extolled to the skies their own prowess in 
 their engagements with the Falatahs, whilst 
 they represented the people of Youri as the 
 greatest cowards in the world. We were in- 
 formed by them that Niki, five days' journey 
 from Khiama, is the most considerable city in 
 Borghoo ; and that it was only about fifteen or 
 sixteen days' journey from Abomey, the capital 
 of Dahomy. 
 
 Wow Wow is the metropolis of a province of 
 the same name, in the empire of Borghoo, and is 
 governed by a ruler, named Mohammed, a 
 Mussulman, strongly addicted to superstition, 
 but of mild, unassuming, and pleasing man- 
 ners. The city lies on a beautiful rising ground, 
 with gentle hills on every side ; and may con- 
 tain, on a hasty computation, perhaps twenty 
 thousand inhabitants. It is surrounded by a 
 high and substantial mud wall, and broad deep 
 trench. The houses in it are circular, and the
 
 THE WOW WOWNESE. 133 
 
 streets spacious and airy ; and it is without ex- 
 ception the neatest, most wholesome, and best 
 regulated town of any in the interior. The inha- 
 bitants, or at least the better sort of them, dress 
 in tobes, caps, and trousers ; and are a cheerful, 
 thoughtless set of people, yet fonder of music, 
 carousing, singing, and dancing, than any people 
 we met with in Africa. Drunkenness is their 
 besetting sin ; and the beverage in most esteem 
 with them is a species of ale, called pitto, ob- 
 tained from Indian corn previously made into 
 malt. The process is simple, being much the 
 same as the brewing of beer in England ; only 
 no hops are added to the malt. 
 
 This sad propensity to intoxication, which 
 males and females in every grade of society love 
 to cultivate, is the agent of many irregularities, 
 and cause their notions of morality to be so very 
 lax, that chastity itself is barely acknowledged 
 by them as an excellence ; nevertheless the 
 people of Wow Wow have many substantial 
 virtues, and agreeable qualities, which one can 
 hardly help loving them for. Their generous 
 hospitality is unbounded, and a parcel of more
 
 134 LUXURIES AT WOW WOW. 
 
 merry, facetious, happy scoundrels than the ge- 
 nerality of them is not to be found in the world. 
 
 The soil in the neighbourhood of Wow 
 Wow is surprisingly rich and heavy; so that 
 many of the necessaries of life spring up almost 
 spontaneously from the earth, and others require 
 but trifling labour in their cultivation and gene- 
 ral management ; hence the people have abun- 
 dance of leisure, which they employ in feasting, 
 drinking, sleeping, visiting, and oftentimes in 
 less innocent recreations than these. 
 
 The direct road from Badagry, Gonja, Da- 
 homy, Ashantee, Jannah to Nyffee, Houssa, 
 Bornou, &c. lying through the town, its inha- 
 bitants are supplied with many of the luxuries 
 of life at a more reasonable rate than their coun- 
 trymen in less frequented districts, and their 
 habitations have consequently more pretensions 
 to comfort than those of any people between 
 Badagry and Soccasoo. 
 
 Articles of merchandise, of English manufac- 
 ture, such as Manchester goods, pewter plates, 
 jugs, and dishes, are very common, both in 
 Khiama and Wow Wow ; and it is really laugh-
 
 AFRICAN MARRIAGES. 135 
 
 able to observe to what elegant uses some of the 
 latter are applied. 
 
 The religion is either idolatry or Islamism; but 
 these are so blended into each other, that it 
 would be difficult to draw a line of distinction 
 between the professors of either faith. Bigotry 
 is unknown, and the wildest doctrines are to- 
 lerated with an amiable and forbearing spirit 
 that does the government infinite credit ! 
 
 The marriages of the people are exceedingly 
 simple, differing in no essential particular from 
 the manner in which that ceremony is practised 
 amongst Africans generally. A pagan pays his 
 addresses to a girl, and if, after a short acquaint- 
 ance, he fancies she will answer his purpose, 
 he simply gives or sends a small present to the 
 parents, who rarely raise any obstacles to balk his 
 wishes ; whereupon the female quits her father's 
 house, and resides, as long as she lives, with her 
 suitor. The courtship of a Mohammedan is 
 carried on in much the same fashion, with the 
 addition of reading the fatha (marriage cere- 
 mony). When tired of each other the "fatha" 
 is again read, and the couple part for ever,
 
 136 AFRICAN COURTSHIP. 
 
 (although they may have lived together for 
 twenty years,) with as much coolness and un- 
 concern as if they had been utter strangers to 
 each other. This convenient custom is greatly 
 relished by every one, and is seldom known to 
 produce any unpleasant consequences. 
 
 The Africans have less of sentiment in then- 
 love affairs than Europeans ; they have no stolen 
 interviews no rambling in verdant fields no 
 affectionate squeezes of the hand no language 
 of the eyes no refined feeling no moonlight 
 reveries ; all is conducted in the most unpoetical 
 business-like way imaginable, and is considered 
 in the light of one of their least important con- 
 cerns; the lover merely saying to his intended 
 bride, " Should you like to become my wife, my 
 dear ? " to which the lady replies, " I have no 
 objection." " Then come and live with me," 
 retorts the man ; and from that hour the couple 
 reside together. This is the beginning and end 
 of their courtship, and I never heard of a re- 
 fusal on the lady's part to embrace the pro- 
 posal. The notions of female perfection amongst 
 the people consist in the bulk, plumpness, and
 
 AFRICAN NOTIONS OF BEAUTY. 137 
 
 rotundity of the object ; and a perfect beauty 
 in their estimation, as it has often been re- 
 marked, is " a load for a camel !" This deli- 
 cacy of taste is as general in Africa as it is in 
 Turkey in Europe, although I never heard that 
 the natives of the former country use any arti- 
 ficial means of increasing the size of their daugh- 
 ters, in order to their obtaining admirers. Al- 
 lowing the qualities of bulk, &,c. to be the cri- 
 terion of beauty, the widow Zuma, who will by 
 and by be introduced, would bear away the 
 palm of superiority from every competitor, that 
 lady being a whole world of fat and loveliness ! 
 and consequently the most elegant, the most 
 charming, the most graceful, the most amiable, 
 the most captivating beauty in the continent 
 of Africa ! ! 
 
 The ideas of handsomeness entertained by the 
 fair sex, with regard to their male companions, 
 are extremely vague, and it is even difficult to 
 ascertain whether they have any notion of come- 
 liness at all ; for a lady eagerly embraces the first 
 offer, even if the fellow that makes it be as old 
 as Methusala, and ugly as Sin. As a proof of
 
 138 AFRICAN WIVES. 
 
 this, I knew a pretty girl at Wow Wow, bloom- 
 ing with youth, and full of life and spirit, pos- 
 sessing besides uncommon shrewdness for an 
 African : to this individual a tall, lanky, phan- 
 tom-like man, evidently tottering on the brink 
 of the grave, whose lantern jaws were of a truly 
 formidable length, and who squinted most di- 
 vinely, offered himself, and was of course ac- 
 cepted, although he had upwards of twenty 
 wives at the time. On my questioning the 
 damsel as to the reasons of her acceptance of a 
 person so excessively old and ugly as her spouse, 
 she answered very smartly something equivalent 
 to the ancient saying still in use amongst the 
 lower class of people in England, " a toad is a 
 pearl in a duck's eye ! " and instantly left me. 
 No doubt the number of wives of the old gen- 
 tleman, which in Europe would be considered 
 as a serious grievance, was one of the principal 
 motives that had swayed her in the choice she 
 had made; as by that criterion the wealth of the 
 party is judged of. 
 
 WTien a husband dies ; the wives who have 
 not borne him children are sold ; whereas those
 
 FUNERAL CUSTOMS. 139 
 
 who have had that good fortune are free for 
 life, or at least till they change their condition a 
 second time. The widows wear a rope round 
 their head, neck, and waist, as mourning for 
 their deceased husbands, for the space of twelve 
 months (if they find no one inclined to make 
 them an offer before the expiration of that pe- 
 riod), when their weeds are flung off, and they 
 cheerfully resume their ordinary apparel. 
 
 When a Borghoo man dies, a pit is dug, either 
 in his own house, or very near to it, and the 
 body is placed in a sitting posture, with the 
 hands and feet tied tightly with cord; the head 
 inclining upwards. The horse and dog of the 
 deceased, after being slaughtered, are buried 
 with him, to assist him in his peregrinations in the 
 other world ; and his spear, and bow and arrows, 
 are placed over the grave for the same purpose. 
 On my questioning an inhabitant of Wow Wow, 
 how it was possible for a man so confined to 
 mount the horse, he shook his head, as much as 
 to say the subject was of too sacred and delicate 
 a nature to be talked lightly of. 
 
 The men of Wow Wow are, in most in-
 
 140 HABITS OF THE FALATAHS. 
 
 stances, tall and well formed, and the women 
 handsome, having far greater pretensions to 
 beauty than either the people of Yariba, or 
 those of Khiama, a neighbouring state. Num- 
 bers of horses are kept by the Wow-Wownese, 
 the finest of which are imported from Bornou ; 
 the native breed, although strong and spirited, 
 being excessively small. Horned cattle are much 
 finer, and their flesh is superior in quality to 
 those found on the coast. They are bred princi- 
 pally by Falatahs, numerous tribes of whom are 
 scattered over the face of the country. 
 
 Some of these same Falatahs profess the Ma- 
 hommedan faith, and some worship idols, like the 
 natives themselves, whilst others have no out- 
 ward form of religion at all. Many of them are 
 for ever wandering from place to place, like the 
 Bedouin Arabs, and others spend a tranquil 
 existence in the occupations of pasturage and 
 agriculture. Several are suspected of stirring 
 up the minds of the people against their rulers, 
 and treated accordingly with as much contumely 
 and disrespect as the Jews in some countries of 
 Europe; and others again contribute, in an es-
 
 BOUSSA. 141 
 
 sential degree, to the comforts and convenience 
 of the community in whose towns they may hap- 
 pen to dwell, and by whom they are esteemed 
 and caressed ; but all have less simplicity in their 
 manners, and infinitely more art in their deal- 
 ings, than those of the negro cast of feature, 
 and, to every appearance, are a stage further ad- 
 vanced in civilization than they. 
 
 Boussa is a province contiguous to Wow 
 Wow, whose capital is also called Boussa, and 
 is but one day's journey, or about twenty miles, 
 from the latter place. The island of Boussa, on 
 which the city is built, is about three miles in 
 length, and little more than one in breadth. It 
 is situated in the river Niger, or, more properly 
 speaking, the Quorra, and is chiefly remarkable as 
 the place where the enterprising Mr. Park and 
 his companions came by their melancholy death. 
 It may contain sixteen or eighteen thousand in- 
 habitants. The road to it from Wow Wow in the 
 dry season is excellent, but in the wet or rainy 
 months is almost impassable, by reason of its prox- 
 imity to the river, which oftentimes overflows its 
 banks. The country between the two capitals is
 
 142 BANKS OF THE QUORRA. 
 
 hilly, woody, and picturesque, rivalling in beauty 
 any portion between Badagry and Soccatoo ; and 
 its most remarkable feature is a rocky mountain in 
 the shape of a cone, which Captain Clapperton 
 called, after the reigning Monarch of England, 
 " Mount George." 
 
 Thick woods approach even to the margin of 
 the Quorra, and are tenanted by an ancient 
 tribe of people termed Cumbrie (or Cumbrians), 
 by all accounts the aborigines of the country, a 
 harmless stupid race, who, from their tractable 
 dispositions and love of tranquillity, are fi-e- 
 quently imposed on by their spirited and more 
 artful neighbours, and sold into slavery when- 
 ever a favourable opportunity can be obtained 
 of kidnapping them. 
 
 Many heavy branches of trees overhang, and, 
 as it were, embrace the Menai, a branch of the 
 Quorra, as it flows by, and impart a darkness and 
 melancholy to the spot which are any thing but 
 agreeable or enlivening. It was nearly sunset 
 when I got into the canoe, in which I was ferried 
 across the stream to Boussa; the evening was 
 calm, clear, and beautiful ; the fire-fly had already
 
 PASSAGE TO BOUSSA. 143 
 
 begun to shine and buzz in the air ; the hollow 
 roar of the crocodile was heard from the borders 
 of the current, and the declining sun had tinged 
 the surface of the water with a rich hue of crim- 
 son. The sound of sweet-toned instruments, 
 and the hum of human voices mingling in con- 
 cert, and wafted from the city to which I was 
 approaching, produced a soothing and delight- 
 ful effect ; and as the little bark was propelled 
 slowly through the lazy stream, the music 
 sounded like a symphony of angels' voices float- 
 ing from the skies. 
 
 The owner of the boat pointed out the spot 
 where my daring countrymen had so unfortu- 
 nately perished. After quitting it, their canoe 
 had drifted on a reef of sunken rocks, not more 
 than half a stone's throw from the island, and 
 had gone to pieces. 
 
 Numerous small islands jut up from the bo- 
 som of the Quorra, which, near Boussa, branches 
 into three distinct streams ; but they are unin- 
 habited, and little better than naked rocks. Two 
 of the above streams flow sluggishly onwards, 
 whilst theother rolls with a rapid current, fretting
 
 144 SULTAN OF YOURI. 
 
 and foaming over vast masses of stone, and creates 
 a noise which at a little distance might be mis- 
 taken for that produced by the waving of a 
 forest of tall trees, when agitated by the wind. 
 
 The Sultan of Youri, understanding that we 
 intended visiting Boussa, had sent a messenger 
 to that place a week before our arrival there, 
 (with seven canoes laden with provisions,) to 
 conduct us to the capital of his empire ; but re- 
 ports from various quarters agreed in represent- 
 ing the Prince of Youri to be a cruel, treache- 
 rous, and wicked man ; and this fact, combined 
 with the advanced state of the season, succeeded 
 in deterring Captain Clapperton from embrac- 
 ing the monarch's offer. He told the messenger, 
 however, that it wassolelyon account of the rainy 
 season so soon setting in, that he was obliged to 
 decline his Sovereign's proposal, but that he 
 would certainly pay him a visit on his return 
 from Bornou. 
 
 We had all along been buoyed up with the 
 hope of being able to obtain the journal and 
 papers of the late Mungo Park at Boussa ; but, 
 to our great mortification and disappointment
 
 DEATHS OF PARK AND MARTIN. 145 
 
 we discovered, that they had been either de- 
 stroyed, or conveyed no one could tell whither, 
 many years before. The inhabitants were ex- 
 ceedingly reserved on the subject of the fatal 
 catastrophe, and uniformly gave equivocating or 
 evasive answers to our enquiries as to the manner 
 in which it had occurred. They seemed indeed 
 overwhelmed with shame at the part they or 
 their fathers had taken in the dreadful tragedy, 
 and did all in their power to shift the blame 
 from the shoulders of themselves and their coun- 
 trymen. 
 
 The following appeared the most accurate 
 and best authenticated version of the dismal 
 story of the deaths of Park and Martin, that I 
 was enabled to obtain whilst I was in the country: 
 
 The voyagers had [reached Youri in safety, 
 and were on intimate and familiar terms with 
 its Sultan, father to the reigning prince, who 
 intreated them to finish their journey through 
 the country by land, instead of proceeding down 
 the Quorra to the salt water; observing, that the 
 people inhabiting the islands and borders of the 
 river, were ferocious in their manners, and would 
 
 VOL. I. H
 
 146 DEATHS OF PARK AND MARTIN. 
 
 not suffer their canoe to proceed without having 
 first rifled it of its contents, and exposed them to 
 every species of indignity and insult ; and that if 
 their lives were spared, they would infallibly be 
 detained as domestic slaves. This evil report 
 was considered as the effect of jealousy and pre- 
 j udice : and, disregarding the prudent counsel of 
 the Sultan of Youri, the ill-fated adventurers 
 proceeded down the Quorra as far as the island 
 of Boussa, from whence their strange-looking 
 anoe was observed by one or two of the inha- 
 bitants, whose shouts brought numbers of their 
 companions, armed with bows and arrows, to 
 the spot. At. that time the usurpations of the 
 Falatahs had begun to be the general talk of the 
 black population of the country, so that the 
 people of Boussa, who had only heard of that 
 warlike nation, fancied Mr. Park and his asso- 
 ciates to be some of them, coming with the in- 
 tention of taking their town, and subj ugating its 
 inhabitants. Under this impression, they saluted 
 the unfortunate Englishmen from the beach with 
 showers of missiles and poisoned arrows, which 
 were returned by the latter with a discharge of
 
 DEATHS OF PARK AND MARTIN. 147 
 
 musketry. A small white flag had been previ- 
 ously waved by our countrymen, in token of 
 their peaceable intentions ; but this symbol not 
 being understood by the people of Boussa, they 
 continued firing arrows, till they were joined by 
 the whole male population of the island, when 
 the unequal contest was renewed with greater 
 violence than ever. In the meantime the Eng- 
 lishmen, with the blacks they had with them, 
 kept firing unceasingly amongst the multitude 
 on shore, killing many, and wounding a still 
 greater number, till their ammunition being ex- 
 pended, and seeing every hope of life cut off, 
 they threw their goods overboard ; and desiring 
 their sable assistants to swim towards the beach, 
 locked themselves firmly in each other's arms, 
 and springing into the water, instantly sank, 
 and were never seen again. 
 
 The bodies of the two slaves, who attempted 
 to save their lives by swimming, were pierced 
 with a grove of arrows, but they subsequently 
 recovered from the effects of their wounds, and 
 were certainly alive when we were at Boussa, but, 
 as I understood afterwards, they were carefully 
 Hi
 
 148 DEATHS OF PARK AND MARTIN. 
 
 concealed, in order to prevent our making any 
 inquiries of them relative to the affair. 
 
 Resistance being thus at an end, the floating 
 property had been eagerly laid hold of by the peo- 
 ple of Boussa, and taken in triumph to their city. 
 In the evening they formed a circle round it, 
 and for several days and nights nothing was to 
 be seen or heard but feasting and rejoicing; but 
 it happened that before their revelries were well 
 over, an infectious disease, whereof they had 
 not previously had the most distant idea, raged 
 in the island, and swept off the Sultan, with 
 numbers of his subjects ; and it was remarked, 
 that those who had been most active in the de- 
 struction of the strangers were cut off to a man, 
 expiring in great agony. The people endeavoured 
 to appease the wrath of the white man's God, (by 
 whose instrumentality they were firmly per- 
 suaded the destroying plague had reached them,) 
 by the offering of sacrifices, and afterwards by 
 setting fire to all the articles found on the sur- 
 face of the water ; shortly after which, it is as- 
 serted, the pestilence left the island. Mean- 
 time the news of the occurrence, and its fatal
 
 DEATHS OF PARK AND MARTIN. 149 
 
 results, spread like wild-fire through the neigh- 
 bouring states; and the people of Boussa 
 were stigmatized with a reproachful epithet, for 
 having been guilty of so heinous a crime. Hence 
 the studied reserve of the reigning Sultan and 
 his subjects, which no consideration could tempt 
 them to break through, so as to enter into the de- 
 tails of the tragedy; and hence also the expression, 
 so beneficial to us in those regions, and so pre- 
 valent amongst all ranks and conditions : " Do 
 not hurt the white men ; for if you do, you will 
 perish like the people of Boussa ! "
 
 150 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Widow Zunia's love adventures Departure from Wow Wow 
 Arrival at Coulfo Civil war in Nyffe' Ceremonies observed by 
 the people of Coulfo at the end of the Rhamadan Tornado at 
 that place, and its disastrous consequences The Travellers 
 quit Coulfo, and proceed on their journey The Author 
 attacked with dysentery His sufferings Noble conduct of 
 Captain Clapperton towards him They enter Zeg Zeg 
 Arrive at Kano. 
 
 WHILST we remained in the city of Wow 
 Wow, we were visited almost every day by a 
 widow lady, of Arab extraction, named Zuma 
 (Honey in English), between thirty and forty 
 years of age, who, if one might be allowed to 
 judge from the remaining charms which were 
 still visible in her countenance, had been really 
 beautiful in her younger years. This individual 
 was vastly rich, being the acknowledged mis- 
 tress of a thousand slaves ; and from her exces-
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 151 
 
 cessive plumpness, and extraordinary size, was 
 the exact counterpart of our bulky friend Ebo, 
 the fat eunuch of Katunga. Zuma's affection 
 for my master and myself was unbounded, and 
 as it led to an adventure perhaps never equalled 
 in novelty by any incident that has occurred to 
 Europeans in the bosom of Africa, I hope I 
 may be forgiven in attempting to trace its causes 
 and effects, without which my narrative would 
 be incomplete ; for they are so intimately con- 
 nected with each other, that it would be impos- 
 sible to disunite them. 
 
 In order to give a clearer idea of the story, 
 it will be necessary to remark, that Zuma was 
 married in early life to one of the principal in- 
 habitants of Wow Wow ; but her spouse dying 
 shortly after she had given birth to a son, she 
 was left immensely rich, and lived in almost 
 regal splendour in the native town of her de- 
 ceased husband. Nature had endowed Zuma 
 with an active, restless, and ambitious mind; 
 insomuch that not long after she had become a 
 widow, and before the regular term of mourning 
 bad expired, her weeds were thrown aside, and
 
 152 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 she aspired to the government of Wow Wow, 
 by attempting to depose her sovereign. But 
 Mohammed, although an imbecile and super- 
 stitious prince, could 
 
 " Bear, like a Turk, no rival near his throne !" 
 
 and was roused into action at the threatening 
 aspect his too powerful subject had assumed. 
 Instantly arming his vassals, he made a sudden 
 and unexpected attack on the slaves of the re- 
 bellious lady, who for want of an efficient leader 
 were put completely to the rout, though with- 
 out bloodshed, and Zuma herself taken prisoner. 
 Whether it was owing to the profound venera- 
 tion in which that elegant lady's charms were 
 held by the monarch, to the natural mildness of 
 his disposition, or to the fear of stirring up the 
 people against him, I could not learn ; but 
 certain it is that Zuma was pardoned, and set at 
 liberty, after a confinement of only one or two 
 days; and though she had repeated her trea- 
 sonable attempt several times, even up to the 
 period of our visiting the city, the same amiable 
 forbearance had been extended to her. 
 
 It was the misfortune of the far-famed Zuma
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 153 
 
 to fancy herself, for no reason in the world, to 
 be extremely fair, and although she had cer- 
 tainly passed the " Age of the Passions," she took 
 it into her head to fall desperately in love with 
 me, whose complexion, she affirmed, rivalled 
 her own in whiteness ! The frequency of her 
 visitations to our house nourished the tender 
 feeling, which was encouraged by Captain Clap- 
 perton, who relished a joke with all his heart, 
 and did his utmost to inflame the lady's passion, 
 by passing a thousand unmeaning compliments 
 on the regularity of my features, and the hand- 
 someness of my person. " See what beautiful 
 eyes he has," observed the Captain ; " if you 
 were to search from Badagry to Wow Wow, 
 and from Wow Wow to Bornou, you would 
 not find such eyes." For my own part I was 
 but a novice in the art of courtship, and ima- 
 gining it to be altogether in jest, took little 
 pains to spoil the fun by shrinking from it. 
 Besides, Zuma had behaved remarkably well 
 to us in sending, repeatedly, presents of provi- 
 sions, together with every luxury with which 
 she was acquainted, and I was rather glad than* 
 H 5
 
 154 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 otherwise to have her for our guest, 
 
 " For the heart must 
 
 Leap kindly back to kindness ;" 
 
 and neither of us wished to offend a lady of her 
 consequence by being morose and unsociable in 
 manners, or by repelling her advances with 
 ridicule and contempt. 
 
 For an hour together the widow would gaze 
 intently on me, while the most amorous glances 
 shot from her large, full, and certainly beautiful 
 eye, which confused and disconcerted me not a 
 little, even though I was surrounded by stran- 
 gers and in the heart of Africa ; for I had been 
 a wanderer from my childhood, and had had 
 but few opportunities of mingling in the delight- 
 11! company of the gentler sex in my own coun- 
 try, and consequently was excessively bashful on 
 coming in contact with ladies, whether in the 
 country of the Hottentots, or the birth-place of 
 the widow Zuma. 
 
 As for my master, he was sensibly delighted 
 with these interviews, and with his arms folded 
 on his breast, while thick volumes of tobacco- 
 smoke rolled from his pipe, he with the most im-
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 155 
 
 penetrable gravity enjoyed the scene, and looked 
 as happy and as much at home as if he had 
 been seated by his friends in his native Scot- 
 land. After the widow's departure, it was his 
 usual custom, tapping me on the shoulder, to 
 ask how I felt my heart, and observe what a 
 boast I could make, on our return to England, 
 of so magnificent a conquest. 
 
 All this I took in good part for some days ; 
 but things beginning, at length, to wear a more 
 serious aspect than I had at first anticipated, I 
 was resolved to bring this whimsical courtship 
 to a conclusion as speedily as possible. I was 
 the more inclined to do so, because I did not 
 wish to wound the feelings of even a black lady 
 (for black she most certainly was, although not 
 quite so deep a sable as the aborigines), by tri- 
 fling with them ; nor did I forget the exclama- 
 tion of the frog in the fable : " It may be 
 sport to you, but it is death to us !" 
 
 Independently of the delicate state of my 
 health, which incapacitated me from carrying 
 on so curious an amour with the spirit and 
 gallantry it required, I was positively afraid
 
 156 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 that, from the warmth and energy of Zuma's 
 embraces, I should actually be pressed to death 
 between her monstrous arms ! I was but a 
 youth, and my short residence in the country 
 had certainly impaired a constitution originally 
 robust and vigorous ; by reason of which I was 
 sadly apprehensive that one of her Brobdig- 
 nagian hugs would send me into the other world 
 with very little ceremony. These reflexions I 
 had seriously revolved in my mind ; and on her 
 next visit I candidly told the widow by signs, 
 words, and gestures, that I could not love her ; 
 but she either did not or would not understand 
 me. I remarked that I should never choose a 
 black wife : she pointed to her face, and said 
 she was a white woman. I then observed that 
 it would be impossible for me to exist in her 
 country, the heat being insupportable. Her 
 reply was disinterested and tender : " Then I 
 will quit it, and follow you to whichever part of 
 the world you may be inclined to lead me to." 
 Thus beset on all sides, I hardly knew what to 
 say next; but after a short pause, summing up 
 all my resolution, I gave my greasy inamorata a
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 157 
 
 flat refusal to see her again in the light of a 
 lover, as it was out of her power to awaken in 
 my breast a corresponding sensation to that 
 which reigned in her own ! and saying this I in- 
 stantly left the apartment; whilst Zuma, poor lady, 
 
 " Rais'd a sigh so piteous and profound, 
 As it did seem to shatter all her bulk, 
 And end her being !" 
 
 I was surprised, however, to find that my 
 cruelty had produced no visible impression on 
 the widow, and that her heart was big in pro- 
 portion to the largeness of her body ; for I dis- 
 covered that she could love two individuals at 
 the same time with as much ardour and sincerity 
 as one only. Seeing all hopes of success effec- 
 tually shut out on my side, she had the good sense 
 to discontinue her solicitations (although she 
 continued her kindness), and looked as tenderly 
 on me as ever ; and applied herself strenuously 
 to be on a more affectionate and familiar footing 
 with Captain Clapperton, whose favourable no- 
 tice she strove to attract by all the fascinating 
 allurements she was mistress of; and actually 
 went so far as to bribe Pasko, our Houssa inter- 
 preter, with a young and handsome girl for a 
 wife, in order that he might use his powerful
 
 158 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 influence to bring the matter between my master 
 and herself to an amicable adjustment. The 
 old libertine accepted the present with rapture, 
 which made the third or fourth spouse he had 
 had since leaving Badagry, but he was prudent 
 enough to retain his counsel within his own 
 bosom. 
 
 A white husband and happiness were synony- 
 mous terms with the gentle and delicate Zuma, 
 and she grasped at even the shadow of it with 
 an eagerness and determination that caused her 
 to overstep the boundaries of that amiable mo- 
 desty which is so pleasing and peculiar a charac- 
 teristic of her sex, whereby she did more towards 
 injuring her own cause than coyness or reserve 
 would have done. The Captain carried on the 
 innocent game for some time, for we were 
 greatly in want of something to enliven us ; and 
 so romantic an adventure as this, in such a 
 place, and under such circumstances, caused us 
 very many hours of diversion, and was an amus- 
 ing subject of conversation even up to the period 
 of my master's last illness at Soccatoo. 
 
 Poor widow Zuma! I almost fancy I see 
 her now, waddling into our house, a moving
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 159 
 
 world of flesh, " puffing and blowing like a 
 blacksmith's bellows," and the very pink and 
 essence of African fashion. Her hair used to 
 be carefully dyed with indigo, and of a rich and 
 vivid blue ; her feet arid hands stained with hen- 
 nah and an extraction of the goora-nut, pro- 
 duced alternate streaks of red and yellow ; and 
 her teeth were also tinged with a delicate crim- 
 son stain. In the adornment of her person, 
 likewise, the buxom widow evinced consider- 
 able taste. Her bared neck and bosom were 
 ornamented with coral and gold beads, which, 
 contrasted with the dingy colour of her skin, 
 occasioned a truly captivating effect ! while a 
 dress of striped silk, hanging in graceful folds 
 from the waist to the ancles, set off her fairy 
 form to the best possible advantage ! Thus 
 beautified, the accomplished Zuma used to sit 
 cross-legged on our mat, and chewing the goora- 
 nut, or a little tobacco-snuff, she was without 
 exception the most ravishing object that came 
 across our path in all our wanderings ! 
 
 One day she invited my master to visit her at 
 her own house, where she took the opportunity
 
 160 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 of displaying to him her wealth and grandeur, 
 the number of her slaves, and her princely do- 
 mestic establishment, all of which the tempter 
 assured him he should share with her if he 
 would consent to be her husband. No encou- 
 ragement whatever was given to the lady ; but 
 when Capt. Clapperton left the town for Boussa 
 a short time afterwards, Madam Zuma, dressed 
 in her gaudiest attire, followed when he had got 
 about six miles on his journey, having called be- 
 fore she set out to see me. On this occasion she 
 wore a mantle of silk and gold, and loose trow- 
 sers of scarlet silk, with red morocco boots ; her 
 blue head was enveloped in the ample folds of a 
 white turban, and she rode astride on the back 
 of a noble horse, which came prancing before 
 the door of our hut, decorated with a number 
 of brass plates and bells, as well as a profusion 
 of charms or amulets enclosed in green, red, and 
 yellow leather. Her saddle-cloth was of scarlet, 
 and the appearance of both widow and horse 
 was singularly imposing. In her train were 
 many spearmen on horseback, and bowmen on 
 foot, with a band of musicians furnished with
 
 ZUMA'S ELOPEMENT. 161 
 
 drums, fiddles, guitars, and flutes, who conti- 
 nued playing till their mistress was fairly out of 
 the town. The widow briefly told me of her 
 intention to accompany Capt. Clapperton to 
 Kano, &c. &c. which eclaircissement startled 
 me for an instant ; but, putting on my most se- 
 rious look, I wished her a pleasant journey, and 
 hoped I should overtake her myself in a day or 
 two. Zuma then took her leave, and the whole 
 cavalcade was quickly out of sight. 
 
 I was absolutely longing to learn the issue of 
 this strange elopement of Zuma's ; and was en- 
 gaged in making preparations previously to my 
 departure for Coulfo, in Nyflfe, when a message 
 from the king, forbidding my departure from 
 Wow Wow, diverted me from my intention, 
 and overturned all my plans. I had an inter- 
 view \\uth the irritated Mohammed the same day, 
 and another on the following one ; but my ef- 
 forts to induce him to change his resolution were 
 abortive. He turned a deaf ear to all my elo- 
 quence, and would not suffer me to quit the 
 town for any consideration; "For," said the king, 
 " your countryman has eloped with the captious
 
 162 ROYAL VISITORS. 
 
 Zuma, who will raise up enemies, and make war 
 upon me, if she be not speedily checked ; and 
 the better way to accomplish this is to detain 
 you here with the baggage, which will bring 
 back the ' great white man,' and the widow will 
 not be able to remain behind long after." 
 
 In order to secure me the more effectually, 
 our house was guarded by a dozen soldiers, who 
 had received strict injunctions not to let me es- 
 cape on any account. 1 contrived, however, to 
 elude the vigilance of my keepers, and, taking 
 with me a boy only twelve years of age, who had 
 assisted me in making my escape, I hastily 
 mounted my Yariba pony, and was on the road 
 to Boussa in an instant. 
 
 At sunset I crossed the Menai, a branch of 
 the Quorra, leading to the island; and after 
 landing shortly entered the city. As soon as I was 
 recognized as one of the strangers, a good house 
 was immediately prepared for my reception, and 
 I was presently honored with a visit from the 
 king and queen, who informed me that my mas- 
 ter had left Boussa, and that, if I were to travel 
 all night, it would be impossible to overtake him
 
 ROYAL VISITORS. 163 
 
 before the next morning ; they would therefore 
 insist upon ray remaining and sleeping in the 
 city. My royal visitors staid with me a consi- 
 derable time, and the queen gave directions 
 about my supper, and even assisted to prepare 
 it with her own hands. 
 
 A multitude of the usual questions were put 
 to me by their majesties, which, on account of 
 my almost total ignorance of the language in 
 which they were uttered, I was not very well 
 qualified to answer; but, notwithstanding this 
 inconvenience, we succeeded in making ourselves 
 pretty well understood ; and from the excessive 
 kindness, and watchful anxiety to anticipate my 
 wants, displayed by the king and his royal con- 
 sort, it was evident that I was a great favourite 
 with them. 
 
 The queen had certainly not much of the 
 widow Zuma about her, either in appearance or 
 manners ; being delicate in person, and possess- 
 ing a native dignity and gracefulness of mien 
 that could not fail to please. The features of 
 the royal couple bore a closer resemblance to 
 the European than the negro cast, and might
 
 164 QUEEN MEDAKI. 
 
 be styled handsome, even in England ; besides 
 which an ineffable sweetness shone upon the 
 countenance of Medaki, the queen, and there 
 was an agreeableness in the innocent freedom of 
 her deportment that captivated me at first sight. 
 A tear of pity trembled in the expressive eye of 
 Medaki, when, observing my emaciated looks, 
 and surveying me from head to foot, she en- 
 quired if I had a mother in my own country ; 
 and when I answered that I had not, she said, 
 " Poor white man ! then who have you at home 
 to talk about you, and make fetishes for your 
 preservation whilst you remain away ? " I was 
 certainly not prepared to meet with such extra- 
 ordinary kindness at Boussa ; and it shows the 
 great revolution that has taken place in the opi- 
 nions of the people since Mr. Park's appearance 
 in the interior. 
 
 I had been extremely unwell before leaving 
 Wow Wow; and my rapid journey on the 
 back of a lean horse, without saddle or bridle, 
 had nowise improved my health; fatigue also 
 had rendered me so sleepy that after supper I 
 could with difficulty keep my eyes open, and my
 
 RETURN TO -WOW WOW. 165 
 
 answers to the queries of the royal pair were 
 given at random. It was in vain that I bit my 
 tongue and lips, and used every other means I 
 could devise in order to arouse myself from the 
 stupid state I was in ; the inclination to slumber 
 overcame them all, and at last I fell fast asleep. 
 On awaking in the night I found myself alone, 
 with a solitary lamp burning in my apartment ; 
 and was informed, an hour or two afterwards, 
 that their majesties, as soon as they saw me fairly 
 insensible, had left me in the care of two slaves, 
 and returned to their own abode, after expressly 
 desiring them to make no noise that might 
 awaken me. Next morning I went to the king 
 to apologize for my unintentional breach of eti- 
 quette ; and shaking hands with the royal couple, 
 who wished me every happiness, I returned to 
 Wow Wow (whither I had learnt Captain 
 Clapperton had also gone back), in company of 
 two armed men, who had been furnished as a 
 protection against highway robbers, with which 
 the road was declared to be infested. On 
 my arrival in the city, I found that my master had
 
 166 KING MOHAMMED. 
 
 entered it but a few minutes before, but had 
 not seen the fat widow during his absence. 
 
 A short time only had elapsed before we re- 
 solved to go to the king ; and being ushered 
 into an apartment, found the important per- 
 sonage yawning from the effects of his after- 
 noon's nap. The Captain was the fittest person 
 in the world to deal with the African rulers. 
 The first thing he did was to shake hands affec- 
 tionately and heartily with the sullen Moham- 
 med, covering his face at the same time with 
 smiles and looks of joy on seeing him again ; but 
 the king accepted the compliment with just so 
 good a grace as a growling mastiff would receive 
 the caresses of a person against whom he bears 
 a grudge ; neither willing to bite the hand that 
 pats its big head, nor wishing to be altogether 
 on a friendly footing with its suspected friend. 
 " What pleasure it gives me to see you again," 
 said my master ; " I have not beheld so handsome 
 a face as yours since leaving the city. I suppose 
 you did not think it safe to send my baggage 
 after me; and am therefore come to fetch it
 
 KING MOHAMMED. 167 
 
 myself. I have seen the king of Boussa, 
 who, with the Medaki, gave so very favorable 
 an account of you, that really I am filled with 
 admiration for your talents and virtues; and 
 am sure there cannot be your equal in the whole 
 country." All this the great man listened to 
 with a deal of attention, and one could perceive 
 plainly enough that the sternness of his features 
 gradually gave place to a softer and kindlier 
 expression; indeed, from the commencement 
 of the above well-timed encomium, a smile over- 
 spread his sable countenance which promised 
 the most flattering results. His majesty then, 
 with the utmost dignity, detailed his reasons 
 for the line of conduct he had been obliged 
 to adopt, in consequence of his belief that theCap- 
 tain and the rebellious Zuma had entered into 
 a conspiracy to usurp his authority ; that when 
 their treasonable object should be accomplished, 
 he would be put out of the way, in order that my 
 master might take the reins of government into 
 his own hands. He added that the widow had 
 been guilty of similar unlawful practices before, 
 but had failed in her attempts ; and that notwith-
 
 168 KING MOHAMMED. 
 
 standing the lenity with which she had been 
 treated, her thoughts were perpetually employed 
 in devising means for the execution of her ambi- 
 tious designs ; and she had moreover threatened 
 him unceasingly with raising an army to overcome 
 and destroy him. As this was spoken with an air 
 of great solemnity, and towards the latter part of 
 it with emotion, which was plainly evinced by his 
 tears, my master thought proper to disclaim, 
 with correspondentenergy and seriousness, theim- 
 putations on his own character, by professing him- 
 self a total stranger to the widow's movements 
 from the time of his departure from Wow Wow ; 
 and as for deposing so powerful a prince as Mo- 
 hammed, and taking Zuma to wife, such things 
 were altogether beyond his ambition ; and he ri- 
 diculed the very idea of it. He therefore hoped 
 that the king would no longer refuse his permis- 
 sion for the party under his (Captain Clapper- 
 ton's) command, to go on immediately, as he had 
 bargained with the chief of the Houssa caravan to 
 convey the goods toKano,and he was impatiently 
 waiting his arrival at the ferry. The old gen- 
 tleman, however, was not quite so easily pre-
 
 ZUMA'S RETURN. 169 
 
 vailed upon as we had anticipated ; and in all 
 probability was smitten with the widow's charms 
 himself; for he declared with firmness, that until 
 the absent lady returned, both my master and 
 myself must abandon all thoughts of proceeding 
 on our journey j or of again leaving Wow Wow. 
 Further cajolery, we knew, would have been 
 superfluous, so we were obliged to make a vir- 
 tue of necessity, and wait patiently the re-appear- 
 ance of our affectionate friend, the amiable 
 Ziima. To our infinite joy that circumstance 
 took place on the 5th of April, the day after our 
 conference with the prince; the widow had not 
 been able to meet with the object of her tender 
 solicitude, and hearing that he had re-visited 
 Wow Wow, agreeably to the prediction of Mo- 
 hammed, returned to that town in much the 
 same order as she had quitted it about a week 
 before, without discovering the slightest symp- 
 toms either of disappointment at the ill-success 
 of her jaunt, or fear for having so egregiously 
 offended her sovereign. 
 
 Like most of her sex, however, Zuma knew 
 perfectly well how to adapt her conduct to 
 
 VOL. i. J
 
 170 ZUMA'S RETURN. 
 
 circumstances, and was, moreover, complete 
 mistress of the art of dissimulation and deceit ; 
 for no sooner had she entered her own habita- 
 tion, than her splendid habiliments were in- 
 stantly thrown aside, and a dress of common 
 country cloth substituted in their stead. Thus 
 meanly attired, she paid her respects to Mo- 
 hammed in our presence, and saluted him by 
 falling on her knees, with her elbows to the 
 earth, while, supporting her head on the palms of 
 her hands, she shed a whole river of tears. Surely 
 
 " Heav'n gave to woman the peculiar grace 
 To spin, to weep, and cully human race." 
 
 The great man looked sternly on her at first ; 
 ;but whose heart could be proof against so much 
 loveliness in distress, and in that humiliating 
 posture ? Anger forsook his brow, as the 
 prince of Wow Wow requested the repentant 
 woman to rise ; and simply upbraiding her for 
 disregarding his authority and threatening to 
 subvert his government, he shook hands, and 
 desired her to go her way, but be more cautious 
 of offending him in future. The widow accord- 
 ingly left the house, and shaking the dust from
 
 COMOE. 171 
 
 her feet in token of bravado, cast a " longing, 
 lingering look behind;" and we saw no more of 
 the generous, the kind-hearted, the affectionate, 
 the ambitious, but above all the enormous 
 widow Zuma ! 
 
 This singular adventure, although it caused us 
 to laugh heartily, had been of a much more serious 
 nature than we could have foreseen, and had 
 given us much unnecessary trouble, as well as 
 occasioned some days' delay ; but when it was 
 thus satisfactorily terminated, we resolved to be 
 more guarded in encouraging, even in jest, the 
 advances of the African belles, as our lives 
 might thereby be endangered, by exciting the 
 prejudices of the people against us. The 
 widow being returned, and having promised to 
 abide in peace, his majesty of Wow Wow 
 offered no further impediment to our departure, 
 and we quitted his capital on the following day. 
 
 After passing through three or four insigni- 
 ficant villages, inhabited by Cambrie, we ar- 
 rived at Comoe, a good-sized town, about half a 
 mile from the ferry, in which we remained three
 
 172 YOUTA. 
 
 days, as Captain Clapperton was too weak and 
 
 -11 J V J 
 
 ill to proceed at an earlier period. 
 
 On the 10th we crossed the Quorra, running 
 in a southerly direction, which is full of di- 
 minutive islands, and about the width of the 
 Thames at Westminster. We had now left the 
 Borghoo country, and were treading on the soil 
 of Nyffe ; and notwithstanding the unfavorable 
 account every where received of the rapacity, 
 dishonesty, and injustice of the natives generally, 
 we ever found them strictly honorable in their 
 dealings towards us, good-natured and cheerful ; 
 and were always ready not only to do a benevo- 
 lent action, but willing to sacrifice personal 
 comfort to our accommodation. 
 
 At one o'clock we entered Galloway, a village 
 about eight miles from the Quorra, where we 
 changed carriers, and reaching another village 
 called Yowta, slept there for the night. Iron is 
 found in abundance on and in the neighbouring 
 hills, and requires very little labour in procuring 
 it. The plains and borders of the river were 
 cultivated with yams, millet, the plantain, &c. 
 We observed numerous nests of termites (the
 
 AFRICAN BRIDGE. 173 
 
 white ants) at and near Yowta, reared by those 
 formidable insects to the almost incredible 
 height of twenty feet. These immense ant- 
 hills were constructed of earth or clay, divided 
 into distinct apartments, which evinced con- 
 siderable ingenuity, and at a distance greatly 
 resembled the huts of the natives. 
 
 The country traversed was exceedingly popu- 
 lous, and on the eleventh the villages lay at no 
 greater distance from each other than two 
 miles ; at every one of which we were obliged 
 to change carriers, and this caused us infini.e 
 trouble and great delay. The chief of the Houssa 
 caravan also began to equivocate, raising a 
 thousand obstacles in our way, and did all in 
 his power to detain us on the road as long as 
 possible, in order that he might avoid the Fala- 
 tahs, who were then at Coulfo, making pre- 
 parations for their return to Soccasoo. 
 
 On Wednesday the 12th we crossed a stream, 
 over which was thrown a wretched and insecure 
 bridge, the first we had seen in the country, and 
 constructed of branches of trees, covered with a 
 thick layer of clay ; and on reaching a village at
 
 174 TROUBLESOME CARRIERS. 
 
 a short distance from the spot, all our carriers, 
 as if by instinct, simultaneously dropped their 
 burdens, and scampered off as fast as if they had 
 been running for their lives. In a few moments 
 we were surrounded by great numbers of the 
 male inhabitants of the place, who were armed 
 with bows and arrows ; and, pretending not to 
 understand a word of the Houssa language, 
 the fellows snatched up the deserted property, 
 and before we had time to prevent them, or ask 
 what they intended doing, went off with it at 
 an inconceivable rate, we following on horse- 
 back, till tired and out of breath, the blacks 
 halted at another assemblage of huts on the 
 banks of the same stream we had crossed the 
 preceding day, forming a portion of Tabria. 
 Resting there for a short period, the good-na- 
 tured people voluntarily caught up the baggage 
 a second time, and passing with all haste over a 
 bridge to the opposite side of the river, finally 
 stopped in front of the house of one of the head 
 men of the place. 
 
 The village forms the remaining part of the be- 
 fore mentioned town, with which it is connected
 
 CIVIL WAR. 175 
 
 by a miserable old bridge, and it contains a great 
 population. 
 
 Coming at length to an explanation with the 
 martial carriers of our baggage, we had it lodged 
 in a large empty hut for the night; but the fellow s 
 returned to their town very much dissatisfied with 
 the trifle with which they were remunerated ; for 
 they had hoped that on entering Tabria the 
 property would have become their own. 
 
 Tabria consists of two towns, lying on the 
 margins of a stream or river called the May- 
 yarrow, which are connected together by a 
 wooden bridge ; and both places may contain 
 eighteen thousand inhabitants. They are occa- 
 sionally visited by the sovereigns of NyfFe. 
 
 An exterminating civil war had been raging 
 in the kingdom, and was still in active opera- 
 tion at the period of our arrival ; one party of 
 the natives siding with Edrisi, a pagan, the 
 rightful heir to the throne of his deceased father ; 
 and the other leaning on the side of Moham- 
 med, a Mussulman, who had disputed his bro- 
 ther's right of succession. By far the major 
 part of the people, being pagans, were decidedly 
 in favour of the former prince ; but the other
 
 176 QUEEN DOWAGER OF NYFFE. 
 
 having invited the Falatahs to his assistance, had 
 completely beaten his less fortunate brother, and 
 it was generally expected that in the next cam- 
 paign Edrisi would be driven from the country ; 
 or, if taken prisoner, decapitated without mercy. 
 A cessation of hostilities had been resolved on 
 by the belligerent parties on the day we entered 
 Tabria ; but the contest would be resumed, it 
 was affirmed, after the rains. 
 
 The queen dowager of Nyffe, a decrepit and 
 infirm old lady, one of whose eyes had been ac- 
 cidentally shot out of her head by an arrow, 
 resided at Tabria, with the head wife of Mo- 
 hammed. That prince himself was at a place 
 three days' journey from the town ; and the old 
 queen having intimated to Captain Clapperton, 
 that it would be well for him to visit her son, 
 before he quitted the country, with a suitable 
 present, my master thought proper to accede to 
 the wishes of the queen mother; and leaving me 
 in charge of the baggage, &c. carried his inten- 
 tion into effect on the 21st of April. 
 
 During the Captain's absence I used daily to 
 take a ramble on the borders of the May-Yar-
 
 MONKEY-FLESH. 177 
 
 row, and amuse myself with my gun, plenty of 
 game existing in the vicinity. The river is 
 serpentine, and of irregular breadth ; in some 
 places so narrow that a person may easily jump 
 across, and at others widening from twenty to 
 thirty yards; its depth generally fluctuating be- 
 tween eight and twelve feet. Thousands of 
 monkeys inhabit the leafy branches of the trees 
 that overhang the stream ; and play all manner 
 of mischievous tricks on the people who may 
 venture to stroll in that direction. Going one 
 day with the design of shooting guinea-fowl, I 
 unintentionally killed two of these little animals, 
 and wounded a third, which fell, apparently 
 dead, at my feet. I took them to our lodgings, 
 and the hostess immediately offered forty cow- 
 ries for each of them ; but, perceiving signs of 
 life in the wounded monkey, I kept it, with the 
 intention of ascertaining whether it would reco- 
 ver, and spared her the slain ones. The good 
 woman, having skinned and broiled the animals, 
 sat down to partake of them with two or three 
 of her neighbours, and after making a sumptuous 
 i 5
 
 178 PRINCESS OF SYFFE. 
 
 repast, declared the flesh to be sweeter and 
 richer than that of any animal with which she 
 was acquainted. One of our landlady's guests, 
 falling in love with the living monkey, took the 
 liberty of stealing it in the night, when, no 
 doubt, it shared the fate of its companions. 
 
 On the 24th the usurper's eldest daughter 
 paid me a visit, bringing with her a present of 
 yams and rice; and being a very agreeable girl, 
 I solicited her so pressingly to take tea with me, 
 that the princess accepted the invitation, after 
 which we took a walk together through the 
 town, arm in arm, a f Europe. The in- 
 habitants of Fabria stood staring at us with 
 open mouths, for some seconds, and wonder- 
 ing greatly what could be the meaning of so 
 singular a custom, when they set up so astound- 
 ing a roar of laughter, as put her royal highness 
 fairly out of countenance ; and I was obliged to 
 re-conduct her to our lodgings with the utmost 
 haste. On entering them, I made her a trifling 
 present, with which she was infinitely pleased ; 
 and the princess of the powerful kingdom of
 
 EDR1SI AND MOHAMMED. 179 
 
 Nyffe went away dancing, singing, and caper- 
 ing, and promised to honour me with another 
 visit on the morning of the next day. 
 
 The Falatahs left Coulfo for Soccasoo the 
 day after our arrival at Tabria, with a thousand 
 slaves, some of whom were partizans of Edrisi, 
 who had been taken prisoners by that prince. 
 Besides this, they compelled Mohammed to 
 present them with four hundred tobes, which 
 with the slaves they took to Sultan Bello, as a 
 partial recompence for the services they had 
 rendered his cause in the late desolating cam- 
 paign. Mohammed, called by his people the 
 Magee, was a most cruel and inhuman prince, 
 and the greatest scourge that had ever afflicted 
 his country. He had poisoned, it was confi- 
 dently reported, a younger brother and two of 
 his sons, for having ventured to express their 
 opinion against his wild and inordinate ambition, 
 in attempting to rule the kingdom against the 
 interests and inclinations of the people ; and 
 because they, in common with their countrymen, 
 hated the Falatahs most cordially, for the will- 
 ingness and alacrity they had ever displayed to
 
 180 EDRISI AND MOHAMMED. 
 
 embroil Nyffe in civil war, to the advancement 
 of their own influence, and the aggrandizement 
 of their own power. 
 
 The war was still raging in Nyffe on my re- 
 turn to that country from Houssa, with far dif- 
 ferent prospects. The pagan brother, Edrisi, 
 had recovered from the effects of his defeats, 
 and gained important advantages over Moham- 
 med and the Falatahs, his allies. This good 
 success was owing to a large body of men hav- 
 ing come to Edrisi's assistance from Benin, and 
 inspired with fresh courage his disspirited follow- 
 ers. These individuals had proceeded up the 
 Quorra in canoes, and landed at Mulagee, a 
 small town in Nyffe situated on the banks of 
 that river ; a junction was then immediately 
 formed with the pagan natives of the country, 
 and an attack made on the Mussulmans with 
 European muskets, a great number of which 
 they had brought with them ; when the latter, 
 with the Magee at their head, were defeated 
 with dreadful slaughter, and the Falatahs being 
 the objects against whom the fire-arms of the 
 people of Benin were more particularly directed,
 
 COULFO. 181 
 
 very few of them, comparatively speaking, 
 escaped with life. The week before I revisited 
 Tabria, Mohammed had experienced another 
 signal overthrow, and it was generally believed 
 by the inhabitants that the remnant of the Fa- 
 latahs, who had been so roughly handled, would 
 be obliged to abandon Nyffe in a few days, and 
 return, discomfited, to Soccasoo, in which case 
 Edrisi would reign in the kingdom, and Moham- 
 med either follow the Falatahs, or lose his life 
 by remaining behind. 
 
 On the 25th Captain Clapperton returned 
 from the camp of Mohammed, and on Tuesday 
 the 2nd of May we proceeded on our journey 
 by a path winding along the delightful banks of 
 the May-yarrow. Passing near to Gonda, a 
 walled village, and crossing a broad but shallow 
 stream, we entered by one of the gates into the 
 town of Coulfo, which is distant from Tabria, in 
 a direct line, only four miles. 
 
 Coulfo is the most considerable market town 
 in Nyffe, and the general emporium of that part 
 of Africa. It contains between fifteen and six- 
 teen thousand resident inhabitants, and, like
 
 182 COULFO. 
 
 most towns of any consideration or extent in the 
 country, is surrounded by a high wall, outside of 
 which is a deep and broad ditch. 
 
 The May-yarrow flows by the wall of the town, 
 and is a source of much comfort to the inhabi- 
 tants, particularly by reason of its imparting an 
 agreeable coolness to the atmosphere, which is 
 very desirable in the heat of the day. Markets 
 are daily held at Coulfo, and an immense va- 
 riety of articles, of native and foreign manufac- 
 ture, are exposed for sale in them. Traders re- 
 sort in vast numbers from Bornou and Soccasoo 
 to the north and east, and from the "sea coast to 
 the west, with the produce and manufactures of 
 their respective countries, for which they find 
 ready buyers in the town. Slaves, horses, asses, 
 and horned cattle, are brought from every part 
 of Africa, as well as silk, wrought and unwrought, 
 cotton, natron, beads, turbans, scarlet caps, 
 goora nuts, malaguetta pepper, red wood, &c. ; 
 the traffic in which is carried on to an indefinite 
 extent. 
 
 The inhabitants of Coulfo, like the natives of 
 many parts of the ivory and gold coasts, anoint
 
 PEOPLE OF COULPO. 183 
 
 their bodies with softened clay, or pounded 
 wood of the same colour, with which a little 
 grease is invariably mixed. They are princi- 
 pally Mahommedans, and perform a few of die 
 rites and ceremonies prescribed by the prophet, 
 such as praying a given number of times in the 
 day, frequent lustrations of the hands and face, 
 and a rigid adherence to the fast of the Rhama- 
 dan. In other respects, however, they do not 
 conform to the moral precepts of the Koran, 
 drunkenness being their ruling passion ; and so 
 addicted are they to falsehood and deception, 
 and so generally prevalent are these vices be- 
 come, that all sense of their impropriety is lost 
 amongst the people, and it is not considered dis- 
 creditable for the most respectable individuals in 
 the town to practise these arts upon each other. 
 Theft also may be said to be encouraged, in some 
 degree ; for, like the ancient Spartans, parents 
 praise the spirit and ingenuity of the junior 
 branches of the community who pilfer articles 
 of trifling value from their neighbours, without 
 being detected in the act. 
 
 The females set off their charms to the best
 
 184 WOMEN OF COULFO. 
 
 advantage, by staining their hair, teeth, hands,and 
 feet, in a similar manner to that of the widow Zu- 
 ma, which has already been described. This prac- 
 tice, which is common to all ranks, and without 
 adhering to which beauty cannot exist in their 
 eyes, in all probability is derived from the Moors 
 or Saracens, many of whose habits were copied 
 by the natives at the time of their irruption into 
 the country, and still maintain the ascendancy 
 which they at first assumed. The more glaring 
 the colour of the dye on the persons of the fair 
 sex, the more fascinating is the object in the eyes 
 of the men of Coulfo hence the pains every 
 young woman takes to attract the admiration 
 and win the love of her male companion by 
 bright blue hair, red teeth, yellow hands, &c.; 
 but above all, by keeping her body supple 
 and yielding by the use of red clay. It is hardly 
 possible to conceive the jealousies, and the thou- 
 sand other afflicting passions that spring up in 
 the breast of a lady, if the person of another ex- 
 cels her own in brilliancy of colouring. I have 
 seen the poor things shed floods of tears on this 
 li bns ,->& ;
 
 BOUSSA MESSENGER. 185 
 
 account; and on one occasion, in particular, was 
 greatly moved at observing a girl of our land- 
 lady's acquaintance sighing and sobbing in a 
 corner of our room, because Nuggree, her lover, 
 had told her a few minutes before, that her teeth 
 were not quite of so bright a red as those of 
 her female companion ! 
 
 Whilst we remained at Coulfo, a messenger 
 from our friend, the king of Boussa, arrived 
 with a present of a beautiful little mare for my 
 master, accompanied by a female slave, who 
 brought butter and rice from the Queen to Cap- 
 tain Clapperton and myself. His majesty had 
 desired the man to caution us against partaking 
 of any food that might be sent from the female 
 relatives of the usurper of Nyffe, it being their 
 avowed intention to poison us by that means. 
 This information, joined with other circum- 
 stances, rendered us infinitely more suspicious 
 than we had previously been, and obliged us to 
 use greater caution in accepting presents of pro- 
 visions from doubtful quarters. From that time 
 it was our usual custom to interrogate the indi- 
 vidual bringing butter, &c, and if he evinced
 
 186 AFRICAN REVELRY. 
 
 the least reluctance to answer our questions, 
 or betrayed the slightest symptoms of fear or 
 timidity in our presence, he was compelled to 
 eat part of the suspected articles himself, and in 
 case of refusal, dismissed with a severe whipping, 
 and his presents thrown away. We found this 
 plan extremely serviceable to us, if we might be 
 allowed to judge from the hasty retreat of more 
 than one of these good-natured individuals. 
 
 The new moon, to catch a glimpse of which 
 every eye in Coulfo was on the stretch, was seen 
 on Tuesday the 8th of May, and her first ap- 
 pearance welcomed by a flourish of trumpets 
 from the inhabitants. * This concluded the 
 fast of the Rhamadan ; and the following day 
 was kept as a holiday for feasting and rejoicing 
 by every individual in the place, amogsnt all 
 classes, and of every sect and party, thousands 
 of both sexes from the neighbouring towns 
 and villages flocking into it, in order to partici- 
 
 * A ceremony very similar to that winch was formerly in use 
 among the Jews, as may be seen by perusing the third verse of 
 the 31st Psalm : " Blow up the trumpet in the new moon, in 
 the time appointed, on our solemn feast-day."
 
 AFRICAN REVELRY. 187 
 
 pate in the festivities and amusements of the 
 occasion. Men and boys, old women and young 
 maidens, slave and free, Mahommedan and Pa- 
 gan, forgot all distinctions of rank, and dif- 
 ference in age and modes of worship, and join- 
 ing in the song and the dance, drank palm-wine 
 and booza together, and before the morning 
 was well over, all hands became comfortably 
 drunk. Groups of persons might be seen in 
 the afternoon, rambling from one end of the 
 town to the other, dancing, capering, tumbling, 
 and hallooing, some reeling to and fro, scarcely 
 able to stand, others insensible from excessive 
 intoxication ; some flung into the river by their 
 boisterous companions, and dragged out again 
 half drowned ; some smiting their breasts, and 
 calling upon the name of the Prophet; others 
 hurrying about in every direction ; fighting, 
 praying, laughing, weeping; but all, from the 
 governor and his ladies to the meanest bond- 
 men and slaves, all drunk in a greater or less 
 degree. 
 
 It was now inexpressibly insufferably hot; 
 not a single zephyr panted upon the motionless 
 trees, and the intensity of the sun's rays
 
 188 A STORM. 
 
 threatened to set fire to the tenantless huts of 
 the inhabitants. About five or six o'clock a 
 sultry haze obscured the firmament, which dis- 
 persing some time afterwards, a solemn, fearful 
 calm succeeded, and continued for an hour or 
 two, the people still enjoying their noisy revelry, 
 and loud bursts of merriment resounding from 
 every quarter of the town. We, apprehen- 
 sive of what was to come after, kept our eyes 
 intently fixed on the eastern horizon, and at 
 length espied a small dark cloud slowly rising 
 from that quarter of the heavens. Immediately 
 after the appearance of this object, faint flashes 
 of lightning, and distant peals of thunder fol- 
 lowing in rapid succession, convinced us that a 
 tornado was approaching. The people at last 
 understanding these symptoms, all was hurry, 
 bustle, and confusion, in a moment the music 
 and dancing suddenly ceased the drunken be- 
 came sober a deep, wild, thrilling cry was 
 raised by the women, and answered by screams 
 of affright from the children and young persons. 
 Meanwhile, the peals of thunder became infi- 
 nitely louder and more appalling, and the light-
 
 A STORM. 189 
 
 ning more intensely vivid than before: the 
 clouds in the east gradually rolling towards the 
 zenith in denser and heavier masses, a large 
 portion of the heavens was presently clothed in 
 almost midnight darkness, when the western 
 horizon suddenly opened, and a sea of liquid 
 fire streaming from that direction, added a 
 sterner and yet more dreadful grandeur to the 
 firmament, exposing by its yellowish glare all 
 the horrors and blackness of the scene. The 
 sable curtain that overhung our heads, was rent 
 asunder shortly after with a frightful explosion, 
 causing the earth to tremble and shake as if the 
 Almighty had set his foot upon the world, and 
 reproached the people for their wickedness; 
 while the shuddering war-cry, and the tumult 
 and wailings of the multitude, mingling with 
 the hollow blast of the tempest, produced on us 
 an indescribable effect, and awoke in me an ex- 
 alted, but painful and tremulous emotion of 
 soul, that had nearly overpowered me. 
 
 To increase the consternation that was de- 
 picted on every countenance, the town of Bali, 
 containing eleven hundred houses, and situated
 
 190 EFFECTS OF THE STORM. 
 
 atxmt half a mile from Coulfo, was set on fire 
 by the lightning ; and the piercing cries of its 
 terrified inhabitants floating dismally into the 
 latter town, were re-echoed by thousands of 
 human voices, which produced a concert of me- 
 lancholy sounds, that caused even the domestic 
 animals to shrink with fear. 
 
 The hurricane and rain at length ceased, the 
 noise of the people was hushed into silence, and 
 the tempestuous elements sank from horrid 
 sublimity into their previous state of awful re- 
 pose. I have witnessed many tornados in other 
 parts of the globe ; 
 
 " But never till that night, never till then, 
 Did I go through a tempest dropping fire." 
 
 Next morning I took a walk through the 
 town, and in the country in its vicinity : the air, 
 as it generally is after such visitations, was de- 
 lightfully fresh and pleasant, but the earth was 
 covered with afflicting proofs of the tremendous 
 power of the storm ; superb trees, through the 
 trunks of which, if scooped out, a coach might 
 easily pass, were torn up by the roots, and their 
 gigantic branches shivered into splinters; whilst
 
 EFFECTS OF THE STORM. 191 
 
 others were indeed standing, but scathed and 
 blackened from the effects of the lightning, and 
 entirely stripped of their verdant foliage. Frag- 
 ments and roofs of huts, many of them yet 
 smouldering, were scattered in every direction ; 
 and here and there the dead body of a bird or 
 beast, which had perished the preceding night, 
 might be met with. 
 
 The destitute inhabitants of Bali came to 
 Coulfo, the day after their town had been re- 
 duced to ashes, to tell their simple tale of dis- 
 tress, and solicit the assistance of their more 
 favoured neighbours. I was pleased to see their 
 story listened to with tears, and their sorrowful 
 condition ameliorated, with a benevolence and 
 zeal that effectually covered the bad qualities 
 of the people of Coulfo, and made one forget 
 for a moment that they possessed any. In a 
 conversation with one of the sufferers in the ill- 
 fated town, I learned that several mothers had 
 perished in the flames, while in the act of escap- 
 ing from them with their tender offspring slung 
 to their backs ; and it was supposed that many 
 of the male sex had shared in the like calamity,
 
 192 NATIVE RIVALRY. 
 
 as they were missing, and no intelligence what- 
 ever had transpired respecting them. One in- 
 dividual, bowed down with years, had snatched 
 up in his arms a little boy who was crossing his 
 path, screaming with terror; but, just as he had 
 reached the outskirts of the burning town, and 
 was congratulating himself on his good fortune, 
 in having preserved his own and the child's life 
 so unexpectedly, a moving mass of fire, whirled 
 by the wind, suddenly fell upon him, and both 
 he and his charge were scorched to death, in 
 sight of their sorrowing relatives. 
 
 The town of Bali soon rose from its ruins, 
 a nd the people, by their merriment and vivacity, 
 seemed to forget, a month or two afterwards, 
 that any such calamity had befallen it. 
 
 The country for miles round Coulfo is stud- 
 ded with walled towns, open villages, and clus- 
 ters of houses; and so jealous are the inhabitants 
 of one of these places of the superiority, imagi- 
 nary or real, whether as regards personal bra- 
 very or success in slave-catching, of another, 
 that, like the natives of rival parishes in Corn- 
 wall, before the introduction of Methodism into
 
 PARTY SPIRIT. 193 
 
 that county, or the different sects and orders 
 which agitate Ireland at the present time, for- 
 mally challenge each other, and meet by ap- 
 pointment to try the prowess and superiority of 
 their respective parties. On such occasions, the 
 combatants arm themselves with bludgeons, 
 bows and arrows, and spears; and the conflict 
 is, in almost every instance, prosecuted with the 
 bitterness and animosity of the most ruthless 
 savages, frequently terminating in the death or 
 capture of numbers of each party, when the lat- 
 ter are uniformly sold into slavery. Just at the 
 period of our arrival at Coulfo, the inhabitants 
 of the walled town of Koofoo, situated but a 
 short distance from the former place, having 
 captured and sold, contrary to custom, the wife 
 of a man belonging to a neighbouring village, 
 who was supposed to have been slain in one of 
 these engagements, a mutual system of retalia- 
 tion and petty warfare was the consequence, 
 which had embroiled all the country in domestic 
 dissensions; and their war-cry, of all sounds, 
 next to their death-yell, the most truly terrific, 
 could be distinctly heard at our lodgings in 
 
 VOL. I. K
 
 194 PARTY SPIRIT. 
 
 Coulfo every evening. A person connected 
 with either of the disturbed towns could not 
 venture out alone, or unarmed, without expos- 
 ing himself to be shot at or pierced by his inve- 
 terate antagonists, who made it a constant prac- 
 tice to prowl about the country, and spring, 
 tiger-like, upon any unsuspecting victim whom 
 pleasure or business had induced to quit the 
 boundaries of his native village. These intes- 
 tine commotions, united to the formidable civil 
 war that was desolating the kingdom of Nyffe, 
 had caused the minds of the people to be in a 
 perpetual state of fermentation and alarm, oc- 
 casioning their angry and incited passions to 
 have the ascendancy over their milder virtues ; 
 and to this cause is attributable, more than to 
 any other, the absence of that kindness and 
 hospitality, amongst the natives generally, which 
 were so cheerfully bestowed upon us in the less 
 civilized kingdoms of Yariba and Borghoo, 
 although even the people of Nyffe were by no 
 means destitute of the gentle charities of life. 
 
 The severe and continued indisposition that 
 both my master and myself experienced, obliged
 
 DEPARTURE FROM COULFO. 195 
 
 us to remain in the city of Coulfo six or seven 
 weeks : but, getting better at the termination of 
 that period, we departed on the nineteenth of 
 June, and passing through Koofoo, where we 
 slept, and several other villages, encamped out- 
 side the walled town of Bullabulla on the 21st 
 of the same month. At that place I was at- 
 tacked with dysentery, a truly frightful disorder, 
 that causes hope to die within the patient, and 
 puts him altogether out of the love of life. The 
 pain it occasioned me was so great, and its effects 
 so distressing, that I was unable to keep a regular 
 journal of occurrences until my arrival at Kano. 
 On the road to that city my sufferings were too 
 acute to be described ; and it was not unusual 
 for me to lag behind the rest of the party, 
 and, dismounting from my horse, to roll my- 
 self in the dust, in the hope of relieving the 
 agony of the moment, where I remained panting 
 on the naked earth, till my master, alarmed 
 at my long absence, would light large fires, by 
 the smoke of which I was directed to his resting- 
 place. On entering the tent, it was my custom, 
 without uttering a word, to fling myself on a 
 
 K2
 
 196 AUTHOR'S ILLNESS. 
 
 mat, and, embracing my pillow, * to sleep, or 
 rather endeavour to sleep till morning. By 
 this means I acquired a habit of groaning in my 
 slumbers, of which I could not completely divest 
 myself, even for some months after my return 
 to England. Whenever we came to a stream 
 which was too deep to ford, and unfurnished 
 with a ferry-boat, being too weak myself to 
 swim, my generous master used to take me on 
 his shoulders, and, oftentimes at the imminent 
 risk of his own life, carry me in safety to the 
 opposite bank. 
 
 We journeyed over a wooded and partially 
 cultivated country, through several populous 
 walled towns and open villages, and arrived at 
 Guari, in Kashna, on Monday the 3d of July. 
 
 Leaving that place on the following Friday 
 we continued our course, and entered tne 
 l iKW^--<flil* itfWo-'iK'ilos -:>*&' tOSitofli"^**'* 
 
 * Captain Clapperton and myself procured, whilst in the in- 
 terior, two large pillows, covered with leather, and stuffed full of 
 hair, which we found extremely serviceable to us, in consequence 
 of the grateful coolness thus imparted during the warm nights of 
 the dry season. Instead of laying our heads on the pillow, we used 
 to clasp it in our arms, and, when saturated with perspiration, it 
 was thrown aside, till becoming dry it was again embraced.
 
 ARRIVAL AT KANO. 197 
 
 western gate of Zaria, a considerable Falatah 
 town, and the capital of the province of Zeg Zeg, 
 on Monday the 10th. 
 
 The country to the eastward of the town was 
 unspeakably fine, and almost clear of wood ; 
 and looked as fresh and beautiful as the richest 
 parts of England in the summer months. Plan- 
 tations of rice and cotton ; fields of undulating 
 corn ; meadows covered with a lovely verdure ; 
 and gentle slopes with herds and flocks grazing 
 and browzing on them, looked as picturesque 
 and rural as any landscape I had beheld in my 
 own, or indeed any other country. 
 
 We remained at Zaria a week, when we again 
 set out ; and traversing a country charmingly 
 diversified by hills and dales, streamlets of water, 
 groves of superb trees peopled with birds of the 
 gayest plumage, and enclosures of Indian corn, 
 yams, indigo, the cotton plant, wheat, millet, 
 &c. we arrived at Kano on Thursday the 20th 
 of July.
 
 198 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 Residence at Kano Captain Clapperton leaves for Soccasoo 
 History of Pasko, the Houssa Interpreter Pasko's robberies 
 
 ' and confinement Return of the Captain with the Godado, 
 after an ineffectual attempt to reach Soccasoo His second 
 departure from Kano His Letters. 
 
 WE were mortified beyond measure to learn 
 of Hat Sallah, my master's agent on the former 
 journey, that the Bornouese and Falatahs were 
 at war, and in consequence thereof that all com- 
 munication between the two kingdoms had been 
 effectually cut off. On hearing of our arrival, 
 the countenances of the Arabs in the city 
 brightened up ; for they fancied that we should 
 be the means of bringing about a permanent 
 peace between the belligerents, the war having 
 occasioned the ruin of several of them, and 
 threatened the prosperity of the whole.
 
 PARTING SCENE AT KANO. 199 
 
 1 had received instructions from Captain 
 Clapperton to remain in Kano with the baggage, 
 whilst he undertook a journey to Soccasoo and 
 back, it being unnecessary to have the goods con- 
 veyed so far out of the road to Bornou. There- 
 fore on Thursday the 24th of July, every ar- 
 rangement Iraving been previously made, my 
 master came to bid me adieu, and give me final 
 instructions relative to proceeding to Bornou 
 and Tripoli, in case of his death, or of any un- 
 foreseen accident that might befall him. On 
 this occasion each of us was much moved, and 
 we parted with that unaffected sorrow which the 
 circumstances in which we were placed were so 
 eminently calculated to call forth. -Our little 
 party had left their native country full of hope 
 and enterprising spirit, and we had seen them 
 sicken and die by our sides without being in 
 a condition to migitate their sufferings, or 
 " smooth down their lonely pillow." Like the 
 characters in Mozart's " Farewell, " they had 
 dropped one by one ; and they were buried in a 
 strange land, far from the graves of their fa- 
 thers, with scarce a memento to point out the
 
 200 KANO. 
 
 solitary spot. These were my thoughts at the 
 moment of separation from my valued master, 
 whom I may justly style the preserver of my 
 life. I knew that it was by no means unlikely 
 we might never meet again, and we were well as- 
 sured, that in the event of our dissolutions when 
 apart, no one could be found to close our eyes, 
 still less to perform the rites of Christian burial 
 over our remains. My master therefore left me 
 with emotion. For my own part, I was yet, if 
 possible, more sensibly agitated ; I was ill with 
 dysentery at the time, very'\\\; and throwing my- 
 self on my couch as soon as the Captain was out 
 of sight, I did not arise from it again for twenty- 
 four hours. iii.ii 
 
 Kano is one of the most important and consi- 
 derable cities in Soudan, and is a general mart 
 for all sorts of merchandize. The indigo, ma- 
 nufactured by the inhabitants, has the reputa- 
 tion of producing a richer and more permanent 
 dye than is to be met with in any other part of 
 Africa whatever, and is on this account in very 
 high estimation with all classes of people. The 
 population of the town, on a rough computa-
 
 AIR OF KANO. 201 
 
 tion, probably exceeds forty thousand souls, the 
 major part of whom are slaves, but treated with 
 kindness and forbearance by their masters. 
 Arabs and Moors resort thither from the Bar- 
 bary States, for the purposes of trade, and their 
 goods realise an immense profit in the market, 
 remunerating them with a rapid fortune. The 
 wall of the city, thirty feet in height, and of 
 proportionable thickness, encompasses a space 
 of nearly ten English miles; but upwards of two- 
 thirds of the ground enclosed is taken up with 
 morasses, plantations, and gardens, the dwell- 
 ing of the inhabitants occupying the remaining 
 portion. The houses are built in a square form, 
 after the Moorish fashion, of flat roofs covered 
 with hardened clay interlaced with palm leaves; 
 and are on the whole roomy and comfortable 
 abodes. 
 
 The air of Kano is close and insalubrious, 
 and rendered yet more unwholesome, in conse- 
 quence of the number of stagnant pools of 
 water, partly filled with putrifying animal and 
 vegetable substances, which are tolerated in the 
 town. A most disagreeable odour is exhaled by 
 
 K5
 
 202 THE MORASS IN KANO. 
 
 this means; while a large morass intersecting 
 the city from east to west, into which the filth 
 of the inhabitants is indiscriminately emptied, 
 tends still further towards its general unhealthi- 
 ness. The dead bodies of slaves are frequently 
 cast into this morass, exposed to the action of 
 the air or visits of birds of prey ; and it is truly 
 shocking to observe their mangled members in 
 a state of decomposition, and their fleshless 
 bones bleaching in the sun in the very heart of 
 the town. 
 
 This painful and disgusting spectacle I was 
 oftentimes obliged to be a witness to, a week 
 rarely passing without one or more of these 
 unregretted corpses being flung into the com- 
 mon receptacle, and left to the gaze of the 
 people, amongst whom all sense of delicacy in 
 this respect seemed to have been stifled by gross 
 familiarity with this revolting custom ; by rea- 
 son of this the inhabitants pass by the decay- 
 ing bodies of their fellow creatures with no 
 greater symptoms of repugnance than if they 
 had been the remains of their own domestic 
 animals.
 
 PASKO, 203 
 
 I had scarcely been in Kano a fortnight, 
 when Pasko, our Houssa interpreter, absconded 
 with a few articles of trifling value, and after u 
 diligent and persevering search of three days, 
 he was found concealed under a heap of yams, 
 in the house of the mother to a female he had 
 recently married. He was accompanied to our 
 house by his better half, sobbing all the way, 
 who begged me, with much earnestness, to for- 
 give her husband for the offence he had been 
 guilty of, which I consented to do, but not till 
 after he had received a severe scolding, and 
 promised never again to perpetrate a crime of 
 a similar nature against me or any one else. 
 
 As this old man's history may not be alto- 
 gether uninteresting, inasmuch as it shows, in a 
 lively point of view, the ridiculous superstitions 
 of his countrymen, imbibed in their infant years, 
 which no circumstance or change of scene in 
 their after life can wholly eradicate, I hope 
 I may be excused for giving a short account of 
 his adventures previously to his being engaged 
 in the African mission, as repeated solemnly to 
 me several times from his own lips, and after
 
 that period till his arrival with us at Kano, 
 drawn from personal observation* t *$*n 
 
 (Pasko's native name was Abbu Becr t and 
 although this is without doubt a Mohammedan 
 appellation, he knew nothing more of Islamism 
 than its name, being in reality a Pagan. He 
 was born in the district of Goober, and was 
 brother to the reigning prince of that country, 
 who at the period of the subjugation of the 
 neighbouring provinces to the yoke of Danfodio, 
 Bello's father, ridiculed that wily conqueror's 
 pretensions to sanctity, and rose with his people 
 to dispute his further advances into Houssa. 
 In an engagement with the Falatahs, in which 
 Pasko distinguished himself, his brother was 
 suddenly metamorphosed into a white elephant! 
 and as soon as he was conscious of his melan- 
 choly change, rushed into the thickest of the 
 fight, trampling to death upwards of two hun- 
 dred of his adversaries, who were panic -struck at 
 the unexpected appearance of so formidable an 
 animal amongst them ; but rallying a short time 
 afterwards, they winged their arrows so effectu- 
 ally, that the body of the enormous beast became
 
 PASKO. 205 
 
 like that of a porcupine, being literally covered 
 with them ; and this fact, joined to his extraor- 
 dinary exertions and loss of blood, made the 
 intrepid elephant quit the field of battle. Lift- 
 ing up Pasko, therefore, from the ground with 
 his proboscis, he repaired to a neighbouring 
 forest, and dropping his charge, was transfixed, 
 like Lot's wife to the spot, by the same invisible 
 power that had been so instrumental in bring- 
 ing about his previous alteration of form and 
 nature. Here he stood, without the power of 
 stirring an inch, or of moving a limb, and 
 although Pasko's bitter lamentations were heard 
 at a considerable distance, the inexorable deity 
 was deaf to these violent bursts of sorrow ; but 
 his fraternal tenderness would not suffer Pasko 
 to leave the place till he had the felicity of be- 
 holding trees and shrubs grow round the body 
 of the petrified elephant ; which third miracle 
 took place about three hours after the former 
 ones, and completely hid the transformed from 
 the most prying curiosity ! 
 
 The remainder of Pasko's history is entitled 
 to a greater share of credence. A year or two
 
 206 PASKO. 
 
 subsequent to the above singular occurrence, as 
 Pasko was dancing by the light of the moon, 
 with several of his companions, he was kid- 
 napped by a marauding party of Falatahs, and 
 sold to a Gonja trader. This man not treating 
 him with the kindness he expected, to be re- 
 venged Pasko took the liberty of robbing him 
 of all his goods, and decamping in the night ; 
 he was, however, apprehended the next even- 
 ing, in a state of intoxication, dancing with a 
 dozen females, and taken back to his master, 
 who re-sold him to a native of Ashantee. By 
 this master he was taken considerable notice of, 
 and sent, along with many others, to his own 
 country (Ashantee) ; but no great while after 
 his arrival thither he committed a second serious 
 misdemeanour, for which offence he was driven 
 to the sea-side, and sold to the master of a 
 Portuguese schooner, then lying at Whydah. 
 On her voyage to Bahia, the vessel was cap- 
 tured by an English sloop of war, and Pasko 
 was liberated ; but consented to remain with the 
 British, and serve as an ordinary seaman. He 
 was, however, taken from his employment by Mr.
 
 PASKO. 207 
 
 Belzoni, in order to accompany him in his at- 
 tempt to reach Tombuctoo by way of Fez ; but 
 that enterprizing traveller dying of dysentery, 
 Pasko returned to his duties in the British navy, 
 where he remained till engaged by Captain 
 Clapperton, in the joint capacity of servant to 
 Captain Pearce, and general interpreter to the 
 mission. 
 
 Pasko was no more than five feet in height, 
 with hands and arms disproportionately long: 
 his face was open and expressive, if a mouth ex- 
 tending literally from ear ro ear can impart 
 an enviable cast of feature to the human coun- 
 tenance : and his cheek was furrowed with the 
 tatto mark of the Houssa nation (eight deep 
 scars, inflicted by a rude instrument during boy- 
 hood). His nose was excessively broad and flat, 
 and his lips resembled, as nearly as possible, the 
 famous German sausage ornamented ; and these 
 were, with large teeth, of pearly whiteness, which 
 were generally exposed by a perpetual grin 
 playing upon his countenance. But there was 
 an undefinable expression of low cunning in his 
 dark, wandering eye, and an habitual restless-
 
 208 PASKO. 
 
 ness in his manner which induced one to suspect 
 that there was more of evil in him than he was 
 willing should be detected, and which he strove 
 to disguise under forced stupidity and careless- 
 ness which in reality did not belong to his dis- 
 position. It is somewhat odd that Pasko, plain 
 as his appearance most undoubtedly was, should 
 have entertained the strange notion that almost 
 every female who saw him, of whatever hue, 
 nation, or religion she might be, could not 
 help falling in love with him at first sight, 
 imagining that his intellectual physiognomy pos- 
 sessed some peculiar attraction an oil of rho- 
 dium, which fascinated all beholders. Hence, 
 secure of the affections of the softer sex, his be^ 
 haviour to them was not always graced by that 
 studied civility, and agreeableness of manner, 
 which are the characteristics of most gallants; 
 what others were obliged to entreat and sigh for 
 as a favour, Pasko demanded as a right, and 
 enforced his pretensions with an eloquence so 
 commanding, that according to his own asseve- 
 rations at least, his advances were never repelled 
 by coldness or disdain. At the period of his
 
 PASKO. 209 
 
 engaging himself with the African mission, he 
 might have been about sixty years of age, but 
 looked considerably older ; and the above unac- 
 countable feeling of his had lost none of its in- 
 tensity at so advanced a period of life. Like 
 Aaron's rod, it swallowed up every other passion ; 
 and as will be seen by the numerous wives with 
 whom he was accommodated, and the scrapes 
 he fell into by their means, Pasko subscribed, 
 with all his heart, to the anathema of the Poet : 
 ,*!*! .Wi.r*r^y:-'J'^ H*W. jMfelfcttqfcht 
 
 " Curse on all laws save those which Love has made !" 
 -/-h^ ->> 
 
 At Badagry, one of the wives of Adolee, the 
 king, fell desperately in love with the self-ena- 
 moured Pasko, and strove to awaken his sensi- 
 bility by a present of a bottle of rum ; but the 
 latter being observed sneaking near the king's 
 house at unseasonable hours, was threatened 
 with death if he attempted to display his al- 
 luring accomplishments before the illustrious 
 female inmates, to the infinite uneasiness of 
 his majesty's mind. Pasko, with whom fool- 
 hardiness was in no very high esteem, went off 
 in great dudgeon, and never repeated his visit
 
 210 PASKO. 
 
 to the seraglio, confining himself within doors 
 as much as possible. This seclusion, however, 
 could not screen him from the resentment of 
 the slighted lady, for as he was standing outside 
 our house one day, a stone, flung with great 
 force from her own fair hand, struck Pasko so 
 violent a blow on the breast, that it completely 
 ejected every spark of tenderness he might have 
 entertained for her, and he vowed to embrace 
 the earliest opportunity of being revenged. At 
 Jannah he forgot his disappointment in the 
 endearing expressions lavished upon his extra- 
 ordinary beauty by a girl of that place, whom 
 he married agreeably to the custom of the 
 country, and took with him to Katunga, in 
 Yariba. The attachment seemed to be recipro- 
 cal for some time ; and Pasko was so bound up 
 in the blandishments of his spouse, that he was 
 loth to expose her delicate person to the dangers 
 of a journey to Bornou, and proposed remain- 
 ing in that city, instead of continuing in the 
 service of the mission ; his better half relishing 
 the proposal extremely well, and seconding it 
 with all the weight of her influence. Aspiring,
 
 PASKO. 211 
 
 however, to the society of the wives of his ma- 
 jesty of Katunga, and those of his great men, 
 Pasko's rib fell into the temptation of tippling 
 and carousing with them at all seasons, and in- 
 dulged in this disgraceful propensity to so great 
 an excess, that she rarely returned to the arms 
 of her impatient husband in a sober state ; and 
 was, moreover, frequently seen in the company 
 of younger men than he. All this at length 
 reaching the ears of Captain Clapperton, she 
 was dismissed his service, but retaken at the 
 piteous lamentations and entreaties of Pasko, 
 who declared, blubbering all the while, that he 
 could not survive her loss, so strongly was she 
 linked to him by the silken bands of love ! The 
 amiable lady, nevertheless, the morning before 
 our- departure from Katunga. rising from the 
 couch of her unsuspecting companion, decamped 
 with the coral beads and other trinkets he had 
 received of Mrs. Belzoni whilst in England, 
 and was never seen or heard of after. Pasko 
 consoled himself with the reflection that the 
 woman was certainly deranged, or she never 
 could have treated a person of his consideration 
 so unhandsomely !
 
 212 PASKO. 
 
 At Wow Wow he buried all his griefs and 
 vexations in the embraces of a fresh wife he had 
 received of the generous Zuma; but it being un- 
 lawful to accept such a present without having 
 first obtained the consent of the king, Moham- 
 med compelled him to return the dear object of 
 his affections, much against his own inclination, 
 and the unfortunate lover determined not to 
 marry again in a hurry. A young woman in Kano 
 however overturned his resolution, and he left me 
 in the manner which has already been related. 
 Pasko never troubled his head much about reli- 
 gous matters, adopting the prevailing opinions 
 about them in the various countries through which 
 he might happen to pass : thus, he was a Chris- 
 tian in England, a Pagan in Yariba and Bor- 
 ghoo, and a Mohammedan in the Falatah em- 
 pire ; although the superstitious notions of his 
 childhood clung like instinct to his manhood 
 and declining years, evidently disposing him to 
 lean towards Paganism, as the best and most 
 convenient doctrine with which he was ac- 
 quainted. 
 
 My master unexpectedly returned to Kano
 
 RETURN OF CAPTAIN CLAPPERTOX. 213 
 
 in September, accompanied by the Godado 
 (prime minister of sultan Bello) and several Fa- 
 latahs of less consequence, the road to Soccasoo 
 having been found impassable by reason of the 
 rain that had fallen. After remaining with me 
 three or four days, Captain Clapperton left the 
 city a second time, and entered the capital of 
 Houssa in safety, on Thursday the 19th of 
 October. 
 
 On the night of the 1st of November Pasko 
 eloped with his Kano wife, taking with him six 
 pairs of scissors and a pistol. On missing him 
 next morning, I made an inquiry after him in 
 the city, but no one could give me the least ac- 
 count of the fugitive, till a person informed me 
 of his having met him with a woman at an early 
 hour on the road to Zeg Zeg. As soon as this 
 information was comunicated to me, I secured 
 the baggage in an apartment of our house, and 
 took the key to Hat Sallah, with a request that 
 he would suffer no one to enter it till my return. 
 Although I was by no means recovered from 
 the painful illness which had for so long a time 
 afflicted me, I immediately mounted my horse,
 
 214 PASKO'S ELOPEMENT. 
 
 and desiring Abdalfitha, one of our Arab ser- 
 vants to accompany me on another, took the 
 road to Quorra, a large town in Zeg Zeg, and 
 travelled with unusual speed. A journey of four 
 days brought us to Roma, on entering which 
 town we were told that Pasko had just before 
 quitted it ; but our horses being almost knocked 
 up, we could proceed no further on that day, 
 by reason whereof we were obliged to remain 
 there till the following morning. 
 
 We had not been in the place, however, 
 more than an hour, when some of the inhabit- 
 ants came with the news that they had seen 
 Pasko in a woman's house near the market- 
 place; and as soon as I had ascertained that 
 this was actually the case, I hired a dozen stout 
 men to watch at the gates, and apprehend him if 
 he attempted to escape from the town. Mean- 
 while, being exhausted myself with the violent 
 exercise I had been necessitated to take, I 
 ordered Abdulfitha to proceed to the place of 
 his concealment, and endeavour to secure the 
 criminal, which he succeeded in doing without 
 even the shadow of opposition on Pasko's part.
 
 PASKO'S ROBBERY. 215 
 
 and presently after brought him to me. The 
 old fellow, with the most unconcerned air ima- 
 ginable, wondered I had taken so much pains 
 on his account, affirming that he had taken a 
 jaunt into the country for a day or two, in order 
 to amuse himself by shooting a few pigeons for 
 my use, for he felt for me in my long indispo- 
 sition ! and that it was his intention to re- 
 turn to Kano as soon as he had accomplished 
 his charitable purpose. His wife, not liking 
 this species of enjoyment, had left him the pre- 
 ceding day, and had gone back to her mother's 
 house. Pasko, having made this ingenious de- 
 fence, I gave him a severe lecture for having left 
 Kano without my knowledge or consent ; but as 
 he showed symptoms of contrition, and promising 
 solemnly to behave with more circumspection 
 for the future, I cheerfully forgave him ; and 
 we retired to rest. 
 
 On our return we halted at a small village 
 about twelve miles from Kano, where we slept. 
 In the night, Pasko, watching a favorable oppor- 
 tunity, stole unobserved out of the hut with all 
 my money, which I had concealed, for its better
 
 216 ARTIFICE OF PASKO. 
 
 security, in my stocking, together with my guns, 
 pistols, and in fact every thing belonging to me, 
 with the exception of the horse. The manner in 
 which the robbery was discovered was as fol- 
 lows : About two o'clock in the morning, being 
 thirsty, I called on Pasko several times to fetch 
 me a little water, but receiving no answer, I 
 arose, and approaching the mat on which he 
 had lain down the preceding evening, caught 
 hold of what I conceived to be his head, and 
 shook it violently. Still receiving no answer, I 
 became alarmed, and instantly striking a light, 
 I found, not Pasko's corpse stretched on the 
 mat as I expected, but a slaughtered sheep ! 
 which had been sent me from the chief of the 
 town, in its stead, and which the artful old scoun- 
 drel had placed in that position, enveloping the 
 head of the animal in one of my woollen caps, for 
 the purpose of deceiving me ! as Abdulfitha had 
 been in the habit of laying his hand on Pasko's 
 head at intervals during the night, in order to 
 ascertain that all was right. The thief had 
 stripped me almost naked ; but wrapping a 
 blanket round my person, I rode hastily with
 
 PASKO'S APPREHENSION. 217 
 
 Abdulfitha, by star-light, to Kano, and arrived 
 there early in the morning. As soon as Hat 
 Sallah had arisen, I simply told him how I had 
 been served, when he immediately sent several 
 individuals in quest of the robber, who returned 
 with him two days after. This was enjoyment 
 with a vengeance ; so being determined he 
 should take no more rural excursions, I ordered 
 the prisoner to be heavily ironed, and confined 
 in the common dungeon till the return of the 
 governor of Kano from a town called Fanisoe : 
 this took place two or three days only before my 
 departure, and on the same day Pasko being 
 examined by his excellency, and having taken an 
 oath in his presence that he would not again 
 desert me till the arrival of Captain Clapperton 
 from Soccasoo, he was set at large in the city. 
 
 I saw a slave in Kano whose fore teeth were 
 cut and pointed, a custom I thought peculiar to 
 the coast, and some of the islands irt the 
 South Seas. The man's appearance was most 
 ferocious; and so sullen and reserved was he, 
 that he refused to answer any interrogations that 
 were put to him, although I was inclined to 
 
 VOL. I. L
 
 218 WHITE NEGRO. 
 
 believe that he had perpetrated some flagrant 
 crime, as he was so far on his way to Badagry, 
 whither he would not have been sent, if his cha- 
 racter were not of the very worst description. 
 
 One day, as I was walking to the governor's 
 house, I espied a white man at some distance ; 
 I ran after him as fast as my strength would per- 
 mit me, and thought at first he was an appari- 
 tion ; but on approaching within a few yards, 
 and the man suddenly stopping, I immediately 
 perceived that he was a leper. His head, neck, 
 and shoulders were bared, and the skin, covered 
 with a thick scurf, had a ghastly and cadaverous 
 appearance. When he turned to look at me, I 
 could not forbear shuddering, and felt so pecu- 
 liar a sensation creep through my frame, that I 
 willingly laid hold of a date tree growing near 
 the spot, in order to keep myself in an erect 
 position. The wool, nose, and lips, were entirely 
 negro, and when these were contrasted with his 
 pale, diseased skin, the leper scarcely maintained 
 the appearance of a human being. We had seen 
 a woman in Katunga afflicted with a similar loath- 
 some malady; but its effects in the latter in-
 
 ARAB MALICE. 219 
 
 stance were not nearly so visibly disgusting. 
 Both the unhappy individuals were vagrants, and 
 shunned, like the lazars of Italy, by their fel- 
 low-creatures. Their life must, indeed, have 
 been a burden to them ; for the disease, preying 
 upon their vitals, threatened to terminate their 
 wretched career very speedily ; and to add to 
 their sorrows, they had no where to lay their 
 heads. 
 
 I had purchased a young ostrich of a Tua- 
 rick, who had brought it from the desert, shortly 
 after our arrival at Kano, and the animal soon 
 became so tame, that it would follow me like a 
 dog. In two months after I had it in my pos- 
 session it grew amazingly, and I was in hopes of 
 bringing it to England with me : but an envious 
 Arab in the city, whose inveterate dislike to 
 every thing belonging to the Christians he took 
 no pains to conceal, cut off its head, and 
 artfully attributed it to accident. Meeting the 
 fellow in the street a short time afterwards, I 
 .belaboured his sides so effectually with a stout 
 stick which I held in my hand, that he ran off 
 bellowing with a complaint to the governor, 
 
 L2
 
 220 NATIVE DWARFS. 
 
 who, after listening patiently to his story, ob- 
 served, with a very significant look, that he 
 was quite sure the drubbing he had received 
 must have been inflicted by accident, and dis- 
 missed the malicious Arab without granting the 
 redress he sought. 
 
 A wealthy Nyffe man had in his possession, in 
 Kano, two individuals, mate and female, so ex- 
 cessively small, that although they were nearly 
 thirty years of age, their height did not exceed 
 forty inches. Each of them had been brought from 
 a place called Goorma, and they had left their 
 native country at a very early period of life; inso- 
 much, that they had no recollection of their pa- 
 rents, or of any thing connected with the manners 
 and customs of their countrymen. None but 
 particular friends of the proprietor were allowed 
 to see these human beings in miniature, and even 
 they were introduced only at particular seasons. 
 For my part, I often visited them, and their inno- 
 cent playful manners greatly diverted me. They 
 were extremely chatty and good-tempered, and 
 their agility was as remarkable as their size was 
 diminutive. I offered to purchase them; but
 
 RESIDENCE AT KANO. 221 
 
 not altogether admiring my white skin, they re- 
 fused to quit the hospitable roof of their owner, 
 who candidly acknowledged that he was so 
 much attached to the dwarfs, that he had re- 
 solved never to force their inclinations to a mea- 
 sure they disliked in their hearts. 
 
 When I was able, I used, during my stay at 
 Kano, to collect plants, shrubs, insects, &c. and 
 stuff any birds that I might happen to shoot, if 
 I fancied there was any thing peculiar or strange 
 in their appearance. By this means I soon ac- 
 quired a great variety of beautiful insects, which, 
 with the birds and plants, I attempted to bring 
 to England with me; but the portmanteau in 
 which they were placed having been frequently 
 wetted on my return to the coast, they were all so 
 completely spoiled, that I was obliged to throw 
 them away. 
 
 On the 12th of November I had the happi- 
 ness of receiving the following letter from my 
 master, dated Soccasoo, Tuesday, October 26, 
 1826:
 
 222 CLAPPERTON'S FIRST LETTER. 
 
 " DEAR RICHARD, 
 
 " I arrived here on Thursday, after a most 
 fatiguing and harassing journey. I find the 
 city in much the same state as on my former 
 visit. They say it has been burnt by the rebels 
 of Goober, but I have observed no traces of a 
 recent conflagration, and therefore suspect the 
 rumour to be unfounded. Sultan Bello has 
 been investing Coonia, the capital of Goober, 
 with a large but irregular army. I visited him 
 in his camp previously to my arrival here. He 
 appeared glad to see me, and welcomed me to 
 his country with the utmost cordiality. He is 
 now at Magaria, anticipating an attack from the 
 rebel chief, but is expected here shortly. The 
 Arabs have already begun their underhand and 
 deceitful practices, by tampering with Moham- 
 med [an Arab servant], and insinuating the in- 
 jury he would do his soul by serving an enemy to 
 their faith. The man hardly knows how to act ; 
 on the one hand he dreads the resentment of 
 his namesake the Prophet; and on the other, if 
 he quits my service, he must necessarily throw 
 himself upon the good-nature of his rascally
 
 CLAPPERTON'S FIRST LETTER. 223 
 
 countrymen, who indeed make golden promises, 
 but whose filthy niggardliness is proverbial, even 
 amongst the Falatahs. I shall certainly feel his 
 loss severely, if Mohammed follows their ad- 
 vice, as I have no one in whom I can repose so 
 much confidence as himself; but I have left it 
 entirely to his own choice, either to go or stay. 
 I have just had a conversation with a messenger, 
 arrived within these few minutes from Bello 
 and the Godado ; he tells me the rebels are 
 hourly expected near Magaria, and of his sove- 
 reign's wish for me to make all haste to him, as 
 he is utterly unconscious how long he may be de- 
 tained with his army. For the purpose of as- 
 sisting me on my journey, the Sultan has sent 
 me two camels and a horse ; and most likely I 
 shall leave this city to-morrow or next day. . .* 
 " It is most violently hot here. I fancy the 
 weather has already made some impression on 
 my health, for I feel now and then a little fever- 
 ish and unwell. I sincerely wish it may not in- 
 crease upon me. Heaven knows I have had 
 enough of sickness since I first set my foot on 
 African soil ; and it would be disheartening in-
 
 224 CLAPPERTON'S FIRST LETTER. 
 
 deed if I should be laid up at this particular 
 time. Let me hope your health is improved 
 since I saw you. It would grieve me exceed- 
 ingly to hear an unfavourable account of it; 
 and I would suggest that you keep both mind 
 and body as much employed as possible. By 
 right you should have no idle moments. I hope 
 you ride out every day, and amuse yourself 
 with shooting and stuffing birds : this will tend 
 to keep you in good health and spirits. Apply 
 your mind strictly to the duties of religion; 
 rely firmly on the mercy and assistance of Hea- 
 ven; for in all your difficulties and distress, 
 this alone will bear you up like a man, and ren- 
 der you superior to misfortune. 
 
 " I pray God to bless you ; and believe me 
 to be 
 
 " Your sincere friend and master, 
 
 " HUGH CLAPPERTON." 
 Rd. Lander, Kano." 
 
 Towards the latter end of November, I re- 
 ceived a second letter from Capt. Clapperton, 
 dated Soccasoo, November 7th, 1826. The 
 ollowing is a copy of it :
 
 CLAPPERTON'S SECOND LETTER. 225 
 
 "DEAR RICHARD, 
 
 " I returned from Magaria yesterday : the 
 Sultan received his present with rapture; nor 
 did the godado appear much less pleased with 
 his. I enjoy, thank God, tolerable health, with 
 the exception of being afflicted at times with a 
 sharp pain in my side, which annoys me greatly; 
 but I hope it will soon wear off. The Sultan 
 does not seem in the least willing for me to visit 
 Bornou, by reason of the war; but I shall do all 
 in my power to overturn his unjust prejudices. 
 He fancies, no doubt) the present intended for 
 the Sheikh consists of warlike stores ; at least, I 
 am pretty confident my kind friends the Arabs 
 have intimated as much to him. Yet I am in- 
 finitely pleased to learn that Bello does not alto- 
 gether relish their counsel, and that he judges 
 pretty correctly of the falsehood and deceit they 
 have so often practised to serve their own ends. 
 
 "If the road to Bornou be denied me, I 
 really can't tell what we shall do, or how we 
 shall get home. It is certain if we pursue a 
 different route, my business will be incomplete, 
 and of all things this lies nearest my heart. It is 
 
 L5
 
 226 CLAPPERTON'S SECOND LETTER. 
 
 not likely, however, I shall be kept in suspense a 
 great while longer, and I shall know with certainty 
 perhaps in a few days. I am already heartily 
 tired of this place; and most devoutly wish I 
 were with you. I long to turn my face towards 
 our dear country again ; yet whenever I think 
 calmly of it, as oftentimes I do, a cloud seems 
 to hang over the future which saddens me, I 
 know not why, and makes me excessively low- 
 spirited. I would cheerfully dissipate all gloomy 
 reflections if I could ; but they come over one at 
 times when one is least capable of resisting their 
 influence, and an unpleasant sensation steals 
 insensibly upon the mind, and renders one care- 
 less of oneself, and regardless of the world. 
 
 " My dear Richard, do you endeavour to 
 keep up your spirits. You tell me you are ill ; 
 I imagine this proceeds more from brooding 
 over your misfortunes than any other cause 
 whatever : it is not well to do so ; you should 
 not suffer despondency and dejection to have 
 the mastery over your judgment and resolution. 
 Think of your friends in England, and fancy 
 yourself in their little circle ; never permit hope
 
 CLAPPERTON'S SECOND LETTER. 227 
 
 to sink so far within you, as to say to yourself, 
 * I shall never see my country again.' Such 
 thoughts, I repeat, should never be indulged; 
 for they are ever attended with mischief. Your 
 disorder is, indeed, a peculiarly painful one ; yet 
 it is one which every European must expect to 
 be visited with in this remote region. I have 
 been afflicted with it myself before now, and 
 you see I am completely recovered from its 
 effects. 
 
 " Let me entreat you, therefore, to hope for 
 the best : it is unmanly to repine at any trifling 
 casualty that may befal one, which we are all so 
 very apt to do. Above all things, place your 
 confidence in the wisdom of the Almighty ; let 
 your whole heart and affections rest upon him, 
 for he alone is able to support you under the 
 trying sickness that wastes you, and conduct you 
 in safety to dear old England. Pray to Heaven 
 night and morning, and read the church service 
 as often as you can, particularly'on the Sabbath ; 
 for a firm reliance on the goodness and mercy 
 of the Divine Power, will inspire you with con- 
 fidence, and bear you up with cheerfulness and
 
 228 GOVERNOR OF KANO. 
 
 courage, even when all earthly enjoyments fail 
 you. For my own part, I am inclined to be- 
 lieve you will soon be well, and that we shall 
 shortly see better and happier days. Most 
 likely I shall leave this city for Kano the latter 
 part of the week, and surely I need not repeat 
 how happy I shall be to see you again. 
 " Adieu, and believe me 
 
 " Your sincere friend and master, 
 
 " H. CLAPPERTON." 
 " Richard Lander, Kano" 
 
 The above letter had been delivered to me but 
 two days, when I received a message from the 
 governor of Kano to pay him a visit at his house. 
 On entering the apartment in which he was 
 seated, he abruptly informed me that he had just 
 received a letter from my master, which con- 
 tained a wish for me to come to him immediately 
 with all the baggage. This piece of intelligence 
 surprised me not a little, for I had been led to 
 believe, from the tenor of his last letter, that, 
 instead of my proceeding to Soccasoo, Captain 
 Clapperton must by that time have been on the
 
 GOVERNOR OF KANO. 229 
 
 road to Kano. I could not help fancying, how- 
 ever, that something of a melancholy nature had 
 taken place, which, from motives of delicacy, 
 had been prudently withheld from me, although 
 I was at a loss to conjecture of what nature it 
 could be ; for it did not occur to me at the mo- 
 ment that Bello, who bore a high character for 
 uprightness and integrity, could resort to so 
 mean a stratagem, in order to inveigle an un- 
 protected stranger into his power, without assign- 
 ing any reason for such unwarrantable conduct. 
 
 Two days alter this interview (22d Novem- 
 ber) I received another invitation from the 
 governor, on which occasion, after briefly allud- 
 ing to the former conversation, he hinted that it 
 was necessary for me to quit the city without 
 delay, naming the 25th as the day most proper 
 for my departure. He said he should make my 
 master a present of five pack bullocks to convey 
 the goods to Soccasoo, and order four men to 
 take charge of the animals on the road. 
 
 On the 24th I paid my respects to the gover- 
 nor, with whom I was closeted considerably 
 more than an hour ; and on rising to depart, he
 
 230 HAT SALLAH. 
 
 shook hands heartily with me, saying, with 
 much warmth and feeling, " Good bye, little 
 Christian,' God take you safe to Soccasoo." 
 On going back to my house, I found Hat Salah 
 rather impatiently waiting my return; he ad- 
 vised me to procure a strong camel by all means, 
 affirming that the bullocks of themselves were 
 inadequate for the purpose intended. I agreed 
 with him in this particular, and purchased one 
 which the Arab recommended for 62,000 cow- 
 ries.
 
 231 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 The Author quits Kano to join his roaster His illness on the 
 road Anecdotes of the natives, and his reception by them 
 Pasko's last robbery, and elopement He is overtaken, and 
 brought back The Tuarick merchants The Author's arrival 
 at Soccasoo, the metropolis of the Falatah empire Residence 
 there Pasko's dismissal, conduct, and marriage. 
 
 On the 25th of November I left the city of 
 Kano, accompanied by honest Pasko, who had 
 just been liberated from his confinement, Abdul- 
 fitha the Arab, and messengers from Bello and 
 the governor of Kano. At one in the afternoon 
 our party halted at Zungugwa ; but the camel, 
 in endeavouring to enter by one of the narrow 
 gates of the town, unfortunately broke two 
 boxes, in which were contained stationery and 
 other articles. This accident detained us out- 
 side the walls for more than an hour, when the 
 men were obliged to take the goods on their
 
 232 CHIEF OF MARKEE. 
 
 heads, and carry them to the residence of the 
 chief, at a distance of half a mile from the spot. 
 I waited on him myself shortly afterwards, and 
 gave him a pair of scissors, fifty needles, and a 
 small paper of cloves, all which pleased him 
 highly. The chief then led me into one of his 
 best huts, where he told me I might remain till 
 I felt inclined to leave the place, and shortly af- 
 terwards sent me butter, sour milk, a couple of 
 fine fowls, with tuah and corn. 
 
 I awoke early in the morning of the 26th, and 
 leaving the hut of the hospitable chief, after a 
 ride of six hours, came to Markee, a large, 
 though thinly inhabited village, the chief of 
 which, a kind-hearted old man, upwards, I 
 should think, of ninety years of age, and withal 
 very feeble, was delighted to see me, and testi- 
 fied the pleasure he felt by repeatedly shaking 
 hands with me for the space of half an hour ; 
 and would undoubtedly have pulled off my arm, 
 if I had not expressed myself too greatly fati- 
 gued to stand so long a time in one place. 
 After a short conversation, he conducted me into 
 an inner apartment, and, bidding me to sit,
 
 CHIEF OF MARKEE. 233 
 
 took from a calabash which was suspended from 
 the ceiling a small box made of skin, round 
 which had been wound, with the greatest care, 
 upwards of five hundred yards of thread, which 
 occupied him twenty minutes in taking off. This 
 having been done, he showed me four bits of tin 
 lying at the bottom of the box, about the size 
 of swan and common shot. The old chief then 
 gave me to understand, with much seriousness, 
 as well as earnestness of manner, that the little 
 balls I was looking at had been given to him by 
 an Arab fifteen years before, who had positively 
 affirmed that they were of silver, and possessed 
 of life. The larger pieces, the old man conti- 
 nued, were of the masculine, and the smaller of 
 the feminine gender ; the latter of which would 
 produce young at the end of every twelve years, 
 and till the expiration of that period were by no 
 means to be looked at ! 
 
 In order to impart warmth to the balls, he 
 had enveloped them in a quantity of cotton wool, 
 and the thread had been tied round the box, 
 that the offspring might have no opportunity of 
 escaping ! " But," said the hoary-headed chief,
 
 234 CHIEF OF MARKEE. 
 
 with a disappointed air, " though I kept them 
 with the utmost care, agreeably to the instruc- 
 tions I had received, for twelve years, to my 
 consternation and sorrow, at the end of that 
 period, I found that they had made no increase, 
 and I begin to think that they never will ;" in 
 saying which, the tender-hearted man was so 
 grievously affected that he burst into tears. It 
 was with the greatest difficulty that I could 
 refrain from laughing aloud in his face; but 
 succeeded at length in subduing the strong in- 
 clination I had to be merry, and I told him, with 
 all the solemnity the occasion required, that the 
 Arab was a rogue and had deceived him ; that 
 the articles he had so highly valued were bits 
 of tin, and not of silver ; that they were without 
 life, and, therefore, could not infuse the living 
 principle into other inanimate substances. I 
 consoled the old gentleman, however, upon the 
 hoax that had been so successfully played off 
 upon him, and sympathized with him in his 
 sorrow. 
 
 His mind soon afterwards became more com- 
 posed, although at times he could not help
 
 KIOWAH. 235 
 
 sobbing audibly ; and after answering numerous 
 questions put to me about my country, I com- 
 plained of indisposition, and retired to rest. 
 
 After spending a sleepless night, I arose un- 
 refreshed at six in the morning, and pursuing 
 our journey, passed close to a large Falatah 
 town, called Kiowah, in the neighbourhood of 
 which were numerous herds of horned cattle 
 grazing. Here, as in other parts of Houssa, 
 the cows are mostly white, and the sheep of the 
 same colour, spotted with red and black, which 
 occasioned the latter animals to have a very 
 agreeable appearance at a distance, and recalled 
 to my memory Jacob's spotted sheep, mentioned 
 in Scripture. In the afternoon we arrived at 
 Guari, a large walled town with an indifferent 
 population. The beasts were unable to enter 
 the gate with their loads, by reason of its nar- 
 rowness, and being unwilling for the men to 
 take them into the town on their heads, which 
 would have occupied a considerable time much 
 longer, indeed, than my fatigue and illness 
 would allow, I reposed for the night underneath 
 the branches of a large tree. On being made
 
 236 CHIEF OF GUARI. 
 
 acquainted with my arrival, the chief paid me 
 a visit, and seating himself by my side, entered 
 most familiarly into conversation with me, in 
 the course of which he observed that tigers 
 abounded in the neighbourhood, and unless I 
 kept fires burning during the whole of the night, 
 my attendants and cattle would in all probability 
 be attacked and destroyed by those rapacious 
 animals. He also informed me, that two years 
 before, the Gooberites took and pillaged his 
 town, putting to the sword nearly the whole of 
 its inhabitants, and he himself narrowly escaped 
 with life. This was, no doubt, the reason of 
 the scantiness of the population, and the poverty 
 of the chief and his remaining subjects. As 
 soon as the chief had returned to the town, a 
 new-married couple paid me a visit. To the 
 bride, a very interesting girl of eighteen, I gave 
 guinea-nuts, to the value of one hundred cow- 
 ries, on accepting which she dropped on one 
 knee, and thanked me in a modest but graceful 
 manner ; and in the evening, in return for the 
 trifling present I had given her, she sent me 
 some butter-milk, which was an acceptable gift 
 at that time.
 
 DUNCAMMEE. 237 
 
 At the usual hour, on the morning of the 
 28th, we again set out, and halted at a small 
 wretched looking village, called Kookay, at 
 twelve at noon. The inhabitants, who were as 
 squalid in appearance as their village was con- 
 temptible, were miserably attired, and com- 
 plained sadly, amongst other grievances, of the 
 mischief done to their crops by repeated visits 
 of wild pigs, which had completely destroyed 
 the principal part of them. 
 
 At noon of the next day we stopped at Dun- 
 cammee, a moderately sized walled town, with 
 an overflowing population. I was both sur- 
 prised and pleased to observe the neatness of 
 this town, and the tidiness of its inhabitants. 
 Every inch of spare ground was planted with 
 tobacco, and tastefully fenced round with the 
 dried stalks of that plant. The inhabitants at 
 the northern quarter of the town manufacture 
 large quantities of cotton cloths, which are neat 
 and durable. The wall, by which the town is 
 surrounded, was in a decayed state, but the 
 houses were in excellent condition. The chief 
 welcomed me to his dwelling, and offered me
 
 238 AUTHOR'S ILLNESS. 
 
 the best apartment in it; and to remunerate his 
 generosity I gave him a clasp knife and a hun- 
 dred needles. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th we were again in 
 motion, and halted at Gaza at noon. The 
 chief, like his neighbours, was happy to see me, 
 lodged me in his own house, and paid every 
 attention to my wants. 
 
 Next day we continued our journey at the 
 usual hour, and halted at Royoo at one o'clock 
 at noon. In that town I became suddenly worse, 
 lost my sight in an extraordinary manner, and 
 could not rise in bed from excessive weakness 
 and pain. Fancying I should be able to pro- 
 ceed no further, and that my existence was draw- 
 ing rapidly to a close, I called Pasko to my bed- 
 side, and implored him, after he had buried me, 
 to take particular care of the property he would 
 be left in charge of, and travel with the utmost 
 expedition to Soccasoo, where he would be re- 
 warded, according to his deserts, by Captain 
 Clapperton; for thief and villain as he had 
 proved himself to be, he had some good points, 
 and I thought that the oath he had taken before 

 
 DEPARTURE FROM ROYOO. 239 
 
 the Governor of Kano would have bound him 
 to honesty. 
 
 On the 1st of December I remained dread- 
 fully ill, expecting e^ery moment to draw my 
 last breath ; but at two o'clock on the afternoon 
 of the next day I rallied a little, and although 
 unable to sit up, determined to see my dear 
 master, if possible, before I died. With this 
 object in view, I ordered my people to prepare 
 a couch for me on the back of the camel, after 
 which they lifted me gently into it, and I almost 
 immediately desired them to proceed. 
 
 The Chief of Royoo, who was one of Bello's 
 principal fighting men, behaved particularly 
 kindly to me, and I really believe sincerely sym- 
 pathized in my distress. He expressed his re- 
 gret and sorrow at parting with me in so languid 
 a state, and intimated, that it would be danger- 
 ous to go on, although he did not oppose my 
 resolution, when he saw it would be useless to 
 do so. The path, the greater part of the way, 
 being very narrow, and thickly lined on each 
 side with a species of prickly thorn, I was 
 annoyed greatly, in consequence of their
 
 240 CHIEF OF KOOLEFEE. 
 
 sharp points frequently tearing the covering 
 from my bed, and exposing my body to the 
 intense heat of a burning sun. The Kano mes- 
 senger, however, ascertaining the cause of my 
 uneasiness, and compassionating my misery, 
 rode before the camel, and with the greatest 
 dexterity lopped off the overhanging branches 
 that were likely to impede the animal's progress, 
 which rendered the remaining part of the jour- 
 ney infinitely more tolerable. The violent 
 shaking of the camel caused a faintness to come 
 over me several times on the road, on which oc- 
 casions my party uniformly halted until I re- 
 vived ; and in this manner we travelled till 
 seven in the evening, when we entered the 
 walled town of Koolefee. 
 
 The chief, a remarkably fine old man, never 
 having seen a white man, was in transports the 
 moment he learnt I was in the town ; and run- 
 ning to the camel, he took me from off its back, 
 and carried me into an apartment which had been 
 hastily prepared for my reception. Placing me 
 on a mat, he took a goora nut from his pocket, 
 and holding it betwixt his finger and thumb,
 
 AUTHOR'S ILLNESS. 241 
 
 in treated me to chew one end of it, in order that 
 he might have the honor of eating with a white 
 man, and a Christian ; this I succeeded in doing 
 after some difficulty, when he immediately ate 
 the remainder with much apparent satisfaction. 
 His great men, who surrounded me, reproved 
 the chief sharply for doing this ; but quickly 
 answering them in a pleasant and firm tone, he 
 said that he believed the " Little Christian " 
 was as good a man as himself, or any of them ; 
 which effectually silenced their remarks. The 
 chief shortly afterwards went out, and returning 
 in a few minutes with a bowl containing six 
 quarts of new milk, sweetened with honey, told 
 me that he was determined to see me swallow 
 the whole of it before he left the apartment 
 Contrary to his wishes, however, I partook 
 sparingly of the contents of the bowl at first, 
 but during the night took large and repeated 
 draughts, which refreshed and invigorated me. 
 
 On arising the following morning, I found 
 myself so much better, that I travelled on horse- 
 back, although not without much difficulty, to 
 Zunko, a miserable village in which we slept. 
 
 VOL. i. M
 
 242 FALATAH GIRLS. 
 
 At sunrise on the 4th, we resumed our jour- 
 ney, and after a fatiguing ride of seven hours, 
 arrived at Roma, a town insignificant as to size, 
 but which being built on an eminence, commands 
 a delightful prospect of the country for miles 
 round. As soon as I entered the house of the chief, 
 in which I slept, he made me the accustomed 
 presents of provisions, &c. for which he accepted 
 in return a pair of scissars, a hundred needles, 
 and a paper of cloves. Several Falatah girls 
 of a bright copper colour ; came to me in the 
 evening, who were exceedingly beautiful, hav- 
 ing delicate and graceful forms; and, with a 
 curiosity so natural to their sex, were all eager 
 to catch a glimpse of the " Little Christian,'' 
 they having before seen the " Great Christian," 
 as my master was called. In the course of the 
 afternoon some of these damsels brought me 
 milk and butter, for which I requited them with 
 a few glass beads. In the night, I was re- 
 joiced to find that my disorder, from the effects 
 of which I had suffered so greatly, left me en- 
 tirely: and from that hour my health rapidly 
 and wonderfully improved.
 
 ZULAMEE. 243 
 
 We bade adieu to the chief of Roma early 
 in the morning of the fifth, and arrived at 
 a contemptible village, called Bogell, in the 
 course of the afternoon. Having slept there, 
 we pursued our journey on the following day, 
 and on entering Zulamee, the chief capered for 
 joy on welcoming me to his town, and ordered 
 four men to guard the beasts and property. - A 
 band of robbers having infested the neigbour- 
 hood for some time, had committed serious de- 
 predations on the inhabitants; and the chief, 
 fancying that if the goods were left unprotected, 
 they would be stolen, desired me to discharge a 
 gun morning and evening, that the brigands 
 might not think I was unprepared to receive 
 them. They did not, however, think proper to 
 molest me ; but the King of Kashna was not 
 quite so fortunate, for on the preceding day^a 
 fine horse was stolen from him, which he never 
 afterwards recovered. I remained at Zulamee 
 two days, in order to recruit the spirits of the 
 party, and refresh the animals under their 
 charge. 
 
 We quitted the town on the morning of the 
 
 M2
 
 244 
 
 SANSANEE. 
 
 ninth, and sleeping at Gundumowah, a small 
 but neat Falatah village, arrived at Sansanee 
 on the following day. The country traversed 
 was thickly wooded, and the path lay for three 
 hours through a large bush, which having re- 
 cently been visited by a horde of elephants, the 
 impressions of whose feet were very perceptible, 
 travelling was rendered extremely unpleasant, 
 and even dangerous. On our arrival the chief 
 of the town ordered an open shed, occupied by 
 a number of calves, to be cleaned out for our 
 reception. In the evening, placing the baggage 
 in the centre, I desired the men to lie around 
 it, whilst I reposed near the most valuable 
 articles. Not deeming the property sufficiently 
 secure in so exposed a place, my sleep was 
 rather disturbed; and arising about ten or 
 eleven o'clock in the night, I found that my 
 camel had strayed from outside the shed. 
 Being unwilling to arouse my drowsy compa- 
 nions, I went myself in quest of him ; and on 
 returning a short time afterwards, discovered, 
 to my infinite surprise and alarm, that Pasko 
 had decamped with a valuable gun, two pistols,
 
 PASKO's VILLAINY. 245 
 
 a cutlass, six sovereigns, nineteen dollars, twenty 
 large and small knives, and various other ar- 
 ticles, which he had contrived to extract from 
 the boxes in which they had been secured. To 
 deceive me, the artful old scoundrel had put a 
 pillow into a sack, over which he threw an old 
 tobe, and laid it along his own mat. On the 
 discovery I instantly made an alarm, and sent 
 to the chief for a dozen armed horsemen to go 
 in pursuit of the robber. 
 
 As I was standing in the shed in the after- 
 noon of the next day, I perceived a party of 
 horsemen coming towards me at full gallop. 
 On approaching within a few yards they sud- 
 denly checked their steeds, and brandishing 
 their spears over their heads, exclaimed in a 
 loud voice, " Nasarah, Nasarah, acqui de moo- 
 goo !" (Christian, Christian, we have the 
 rogue !) The men informed me that a little 
 before daybreak in the morning, hearing the 
 report of a gun, they rode towards the spot 
 whence the sound seemed to proceed, and saw 
 Pasko perched on the top of a high tree, the 
 stolen articles lying at the root of it. On their
 
 246 PASKO PUNISHED. 
 
 threatening to shoot him with poisoned arrows 
 unless he immediately came down, the old fel- 
 low hastily obeyed the summons, and delivered 
 himself into their hands without uttering a 
 syllable. One of the horsemen took the 
 trembling scoundrel behind him, and the whole 
 party instantly clapped spurs to their horses, 
 and rode swiftly towards the village. I asked 
 Pasko what had possessed him to abscond in so 
 disgraceful a manner after all the protestations 
 he had made to serve me with fidelity. He 
 replied, that as his countrymen, the Goo- 
 berites, were at war with the Falatahs, he was 
 afraid the latter would cut off his head the 
 moment he was recognized in Soccasoo, and 
 therefore he had adopted the wiser plan of 
 securing his person from danger by running 
 away. Whilst he was speaking the chief of the 
 village, running up to us, cried out, " A bless- 
 ing, a blessing ! you have caught the thief, 
 let; me take off his head ! " Not wishing to 
 gratify the good-natured Falatah in this his 
 merciful request, I took the punishment of 
 Pasko into my own hands ; and it being his
 
 TUARICK MERCHANTS. 247 
 
 third or fourth offence, I ordered him to be 
 heavily ironed, and pinioned in the town 
 dungeon. This sentence was rigidly enforced, 
 and on the following day, the criminal having 
 expressed a wish to speak to me, I sent for him. 
 He came into my hut, and holding up his naked 
 arms, which were swollen to thrice their natural 
 size, begged so piteously to be liberated from his 
 confinement, or at least to have his punishment 
 mitigated in some degree, that I desired he 
 might not be pinioned again, as that operation 
 seemed to have given him most pain ; but his 
 irons were not taken off till our departure from 
 the place. 
 
 On the 13th, five hundred camels, laden 
 with salt, obtained from the borders of the De- 
 sert, entered Sansanee, preceded by their 
 owners, a party of twenty Tuarick merchants, 
 whose appearance was singularly novel and im- 
 posing. The men were all attired in the same 
 fashion, and mounted on handsome pied camels, 
 which trotted into the town with uncommon 
 speed. Their dress consisted of black cotton 
 tobes, and full trousers of the same colour;
 
 248 TUARICK MERCHANTS. 
 
 white caps encircled with black turbans, which 
 concealed every part of the face but the nose 
 and eyes ; and red morocco boots. In the right 
 hand they held a long and highly-polished spear, 
 whilst the left was occupied in grasping their 
 shields (the only defensive armour with which 
 the Tuaricks are acquainted), and retaining the 
 reins of the camels. The shields were covered 
 with white leather, and ornamented with a small 
 plate of silver in the centre. As they passed 
 me they shook their lances, which glittered in 
 the sun-beams, and their appearance was cer- 
 tainly warlike and formidable in the extreme. 
 Stopping suddenly in front of the chief's house, 
 they all exclaimed, as if with one voice, 
 " Tchow ! " at the sound whereof the camels fell 
 simultaneously on their knees, and the riders 
 dismounted to pay their respects. They came 
 in a body to see me shortly afterwards, and 
 notwithstanding their apparent respectability, 
 evinced not the slightest unwillingness to beg 
 money of me, which they did in a most impor- 
 tunate manner. One of the merchants, yet 
 more incessant in his solicitations than his com-
 
 TUARICK MERCHANTS. 249 
 
 panions, amongst other shining qualities he 
 affirmed he was in possession of, stated with the 
 utmost seriousness, that he was " God's own 
 slave," and on that account he was not to be 
 overlooked. I said that the Almighty loved his 
 servants, and made them prosperous and happy, 
 and therefore he stood in no need of my as- 
 sistance. The fellow, however, would not be 
 repulsed, but continued hanging on me, and in 
 fact almost tore the clothes from my back, till 
 out of all patience, I took the importunate 
 slave by the shoulders, and thrust him out of 
 the shed into the street. As he went off, no 
 doubt greatly humiliated in his own estimation, 
 he muttered some reproaches which I could 
 not comprehend, and said that I was the first 
 person he had ever applied to in vain for money. 
 Like thousands of others, these merchants were 
 very inquisitive, and amongst other questions, 
 wished to know whether many of my country- 
 men had not tails like monkeys! I assured 
 them that no human being had that elegant ap- 
 pendage ; but instead of believing my assertion, 
 they shook their heads, looked wise, and said,
 
 250 NATIVE CREDULITY. 
 
 " You do not speak the truth, white man, we 
 know better than you ;" on saying which, they 
 surveyed me with more attention than before, 
 and one amongst them walked round me several 
 times, cautiously raising the end of my tobe, to 
 ascertain with certainty whether I had any 
 thing hi the shape of a tail ! On observing the 
 man's motions, I took off my tobe, which con- 
 vinced hk countrymen that / at least was with- 
 out a tail, when they appeared better satisfied ; 
 and left my shed in the course of an hour to 
 look after their wives and children, who were 
 with the camels on the road, and had not then 
 arrived. 
 
 Provisions being rather scarce, I went a-shoot- 
 ing on the 14th, to procure a few pigeons for 
 dinner. The Tuarick men, women, and chil- 
 dren, on hearing the report of my gun, sur- 
 rounded me in great numbers, and were infi- 
 nitely amazed to see the birds falling dead at 
 my feet from the tops of the tall trees. After 
 examining them with the greatest attention, 
 they declared that I was a beautiful man, too 
 good a one for a Kaffir, and that I ought to 
 be a worshipper of the true faith.
 
 CLAPPERTON'S THIRD LETTER. 251 
 
 In the afternoon of the 16th, fifty armed 
 horsemen, sent by Bello, arrived at Sansanee, 
 to accompany me to Soccasoo, his capital, in 
 which he was waiting my arrival with impa- 
 tience, and urged me to prepare to accompany 
 them. The soldiers had brought my master's two 
 camels to assist in conveying the goods, which 
 animals, as I subsequently learnt, the Godado 
 had borrowed under false pretences. A mes- 
 senger belonging to the Governor of Kano, 
 who had accompanied the escort so far on his 
 way to that city, came to me in the evening, 
 unobserved by the Falatahs, and gave me a let- 
 ter from Captain Clapperton, of which the fol- 
 lowing is a transcript : 
 
 " Soccasoo, Wednesday, Dec. 13, 1826. 
 " DEAR RICHARD, 
 
 " I hope you do well ; I am still here, con- 
 trary to my expectations, and Heaven knows 
 when I shall be permitted to leave. This cursed 
 Bornou war has overturned all my plans and 
 intentions, and set the minds of the people gene- 
 rally against me, as it is pretty well understood
 
 252 CLAPPERTON'S LETTER. 
 
 by both rich and poor, that I have presents for 
 their enemy the Sheikh. I wish, with all my 
 heart, it was ended ; no matter whether the Fa- 
 Jatahs or Bornouese be victorious, so I could 
 conveniently pursue my journey. The Sultan 
 has told me that I may return by way of Bor- 
 nou, if I insist upon it, but raises so many 
 obstacles, that it amounts to a prohibition. He 
 is evidently unwilling for me to have any deal- 
 ings with his adversaries. I do not know how 
 this matter will end ; I must acknowledge I do 
 not like the appearance of things just now; God 
 grant my fears may be groundless. Since my 
 last I have been seriously ill with an enlarge- 
 ment of the spleen,* but am now much relieved 
 from the pain attendant upon this complaint ; 
 and the swelling is also greatly reduced. I 
 amuse myself as often as opportunities occui*, 
 which are seldom enough, and frequently take 
 a ramble through the town, or a ride into the 
 country. I generally feel stronger after the ex- 
 ercise, and would recommend you to adopt a 
 
 * In some counties in England called " ague-cake," and 
 .supposed to arise from the effects of intermittent fevers.
 
 CLAPPERTON'S LETTER. 253 
 
 similar practice, for, believe me, you would soon 
 experience the benefit of it. Three or four 
 fires have happened here lately, which have 
 done much mischief; but nothing of mine, I am 
 happy to say, has been injured by them, although 
 a house almost adjoining ours has been burnt to 
 the ground. People say the rebels of Goober 
 are the authors of them, but I put no confi- 
 dence in these rumours, as they are without the 
 slightest proof. I believe I have nothing more, 
 in the shape of news, to acquaint you with, and 
 my only reason for writing you at all is, to let 
 you know how I get on, that you may not be 
 uneasy on my account. Adieu, Richard, and 
 rest assured I have your interest and welfare at 
 heart. 
 
 " Your sincere friend and master, 
 
 " HUGH CLAPPERTON." 
 " Richard Lander, Kano." 
 
 I was astonished, on perusing this letter, to 
 find that my master knew nothing of the circum- 
 stance of my having left Kano, still less of my 
 being so near him ; and it struck me forcibly at
 
 254 THE GODADO'S BROTHER. 
 
 the time that Bello wished to get me into his 
 power, only to become the sole possessor of the 
 presents intended for the Sheikh of Bornou, by 
 laying violent hands both on Captain Clapperton 
 and myself. With this belief I arose next morn- 
 ing, and asked the Godado's brother, who 
 commanded the escort, if it was not the Sultan's 
 intention to take away our lives on my entering 
 Soccasoo, as my master knew nothing of what 
 had transpired ; but the Falatah answered, 
 " Fear nothing, our King will not injure either 
 of you ; his sole reason for sending for you is, 
 that as he has seen but one Christian, he feels 
 the greatest desire to become acquainted with a 
 second." " Remember the men of Boussa!" 
 I simply retorted, when he left me in extreme 
 haste and great uneasiness. 
 
 The Godado's brother was as importunate as 
 the Tuarick merchants in begging money of 
 me to purchase goora nuts, for the two first days 
 after the arrival of the escort, and became so 
 troublesome that I at length told him I had no 
 property of my own, but that all he saw be- 
 longed to my master, without whose consent I
 
 MAGARIA. 255 
 
 was determined not to spare a single cowry. 
 The Falatah was not at all pleased at the answer ; 
 but on telling him that on my arrival in Soc- 
 casoo he should be handsomely rewarded, he 
 ceased to plague me. 
 
 Every thing being in readiness, on the 19th, 1 
 liberated old Pasko, who seemed dispirited, and 
 tridy sorry for the offence he had been guilty of, 
 and at two in the afternoon I quitted the town 
 with the escort, but was obliged to leave a bul- 
 lock behind, the animal being lamed, and unable 
 to walk a hundred steps without stumbling. 
 Having travelled at a rapid rate through the 
 dreaded " Goober Bush," we arrived, much 
 fatigued, at Magaria, about eleven o'clock the 
 next night. The poor horses and camels having 
 suffered dreadfully during the journey from 
 thirst and over-exertion, we were obliged to 
 remain in the town two days, in order that they 
 might enjoy a little rest. During our stay I 
 resided in a house belonging to the Godado, 
 whose brother supplied me with abundance of 
 excellent provisions. I was requested by some 
 of the principal inhabitants to kill a few birds
 
 256 ARRIVAL AT SOCCASOO. 
 
 with my gun, that several strangers then in the 
 town might have an opportunity of seeing in 
 what manner they were procured in my country. 
 I soon gratified their curiosity, by shooting a 
 small bird at the distance of fifty yards; on 
 which they betrayed the utmost surprise, nor 
 would they believe for a long time that it was 
 really dead, but kept turning it round, and feel- 
 ing whether it had actually received a wound. 
 
 On the 23rd we quitted the town of Magaria, 
 and, to my great joy, entered Soccasoo about 
 two o'clock in the afternoon of the same day, 
 after a disagreeable and wearisome journey 
 (from Kano) of nearly a month. Not having 
 seen my master for the period of a quarter of a 
 year, I made the greatest haste to his house; but 
 not finding him at home, I was conducted to the 
 Godado's, with whose owner I found him in earn- 
 est conversation. Although certainly surprised, 
 he^ was glad to see me, and we walked home 
 together. 
 
 The day after my arrival (24th December), 
 Sultan Bello sent a messenger to request my 
 master and myself to repair without delay to his
 
 SULTAN BELLO. 257 
 
 residence. As soon as we were admitted into 
 his presence, he abruptly began the conversation 
 by inquiring the nature of the presents 1 had 
 with me, and was extremely solicitous to know 
 if I had left any of them behind in Kano, for the 
 Sheikh of Bornou. I replied that I had not. 
 " Are you sure of that ? " rejoined the Sultan. 
 I answered with firmness a second time in the 
 negative. Bello then demanded the King of 
 England's letters to the Sheikh, which my mas- 
 ter, after a short pause, reluctantly produced ; 
 but vehemently opposed the Sultan's wishes for 
 him to open and read them, observing, that as 
 soon as his sovereign should discover, on his 
 return to England, that he had so unfaithfully 
 broken his trust, he would instantly be beheaded. 
 The Falatah prince then took the letters into 
 his own hands, and on his graciously waving his 
 hand in token that he wished to have nothing 
 more to say, we bowed, and left the apartment. 
 We had not returned to our hut a great 
 while, when the Godado, his brother, Hat 
 Sallah, (who had received secret instructions to 
 overtake me on the road,) with several of the
 
 258 BELLO'S TREACHERY. 
 
 principal inhabitants of Soccasoo, entered, and 
 demanded, in the name of the Sultan, the pre- 
 sents intended for the Sheikh of Bornou, toge- 
 ther with all the arms and ammunition which 
 we should not want ourselves. My master be- 
 came violently agitated when their errand was 
 communicated, and rising from the mat on 
 which he had been reposing, exclaimed with 
 energy and bitterness : 
 
 " There is no faith in any of you ; you are an 
 unjust people; you are worse than highway 
 robbers ! " 
 
 The Falatahs cautioned him to be more mo- 
 derate in his expressions, or it might cost him 
 his head. 
 
 " If I lose my head," retorted the Captain, in 
 the same determined tone and manner, " it will 
 be for no other crime than that of speaking for the 
 just rights of my king and country; I repeat, 
 you are a nation of scoundrels and robbers." 
 
 Hat Sallah entreated him (in Arabic) to ex- 
 press himself with less emphasis, and in milder 
 language before the people, who would carry 
 every word he had uttered to their sovereign.
 
 BELLO'S MESSAGE. 259 
 
 I also joined in the same request, and begged 
 him, as the attempt at resistance, for people so 
 circumstanced as we were, would be the height 
 of imprudence, to accede to the commands of 
 the sultan, how tyrannical soever they might be. 
 At length, after much persuasion, Capt. Clapper- 
 ton consented that the presents in question should 
 be produced; but desired the godado, on his leav- 
 ing the apartment, to inform his king that he 
 never wished to see him again ; and that his 
 business with him, after such perfidious conduct, 
 was at an end. 
 
 A short time after they had quitted our house, 
 Mallam Mudey returned with a message from 
 Bello, stating it to be the intention of that mo- 
 narch to write to his friend the King of Eng- 
 land, in explanation of his behaviour ; but my 
 master assured the holy man that his sovereign 
 would not even look at the superscription of a 
 letter from Bello, after being made acquainted 
 with the dastardly action by which he had so 
 disgraced himself. 
 
 Soccasoo has been considerably enlarged by 
 the present sultan, and is indisputably the most
 
 260 DESCRIPTION OF SOCCASOO. 
 
 important city in the interior of Africa. The 
 wall that surrounds the capital of the Falatah 
 empire, does not indeed encompass so large a 
 portion of ground as that of Kano, but its po- 
 pulation is treble the amount ; and allowing the 
 latter city to contain forty thousand souls, the 
 aggregate number of inhabitants in Soccasoo 
 will be one hundred and twenty thousand; which 
 computation I do not conceive to be over-rated. 
 Kano is distant from Soccasoo twenty regu- 
 lar days journey, or about two hundred and 
 fifty English miles. The metropolis is built in 
 a pleasant situation, on the summit of a gently 
 elevated spot of land, and has a river flowing 
 near the northern end, which enters the Quorra 
 four days journey from Cubbe. The wall is 
 high, and provided with eleven gates ; but has 
 an extremely heavy appearance. Architecture, 
 as a science, is not cultivated in the interior ; 
 and the termites can rear as elegant a mansion 
 as the natives, and in a far more ingenious man- 
 ner. The habitations in Soccasoo are con- 
 structed like those of Kano, with clay, and have 
 a dull, gloomy appearance.
 
 HAUSSAN MERCHANT. 261 
 
 An old Haussan with two asses arrived in the 
 city one day from Egypt. Having stopped in the 
 different towns through which he had to pass, for 
 the purpose of trafficking with their inhabitants, 
 he had accomplished the long and dangerous 
 journey in little more than a twelvemonth. He in- 
 formed me that he had undergone great priva- 
 tions on the road, and had well nigh perished 
 of thirst on more than one occasion. He had 
 had no human companion to cheer him ; and his 
 affection for the brute associates of his lonely 
 pilgrimage was singularly great. They had 
 fared in common with himself; they had eaten 
 and slept together ; and, said the old man, as he 
 drove away the patient-looking animals, "I 
 would as soon lose my life as be deprived of 
 them." The Haussan observed that it was his 
 intention to proceed to Tombuctoo the following 
 week, and that on his return he should pay me 
 a visit, but I never saw or heard any thing of 
 him afterwards. 
 
 The people of Soccasoo cry their provisions 
 round the city; and milk, fish, &c. are daily 
 hawked through the streets by the lower orders,
 
 262 SOCCASOO CRIES. 
 
 whose voices are as loud and shrill as those 
 heard in London. The cry of " Nono de mi ! " 
 (milk and butter) always put me in mind of 
 bells belonging to village churches ; there was 
 something peculiarly plaintive in the rising and 
 falling of the voice of the young female who 
 used to vend those articles morning and evening 
 in the immediate neighbourhood of our dwel- 
 ling; and, in my opinion, it strikingly resembled 
 them in sound. " Namah du tonkah," mutton 
 (literally " flesh of the sheep" ) ; " Namah de la 
 comma " (camel's meat) ; " Namah du acquia " 
 (beef ) ; " Gorassa " (little cakes made of pounded 
 wheat) ; are also cried every morning ; as is like- 
 wise "dowah," and every other variety of grain 
 produced in Haussa. 
 
 Wheat was first imported into Haussa by the 
 Arabs about a century ago; and even now they 
 have the exclusive cultivation of it. Bread is 
 only to be met with in two cities. Soccasoo and 
 Zaria, and is manufactured by the female slaves 
 of the Arabs, who sell it publicly by retail for 
 their masters. For a very good reason I never
 
 PASKO'S ADVENTURES. 263 
 
 tasted any of it whilst in Africa, and therefore 
 can say nothing as to its good or bad quality. 
 
 Pasko, whom my master had dismissed his 
 service the moment he was made acquainted with 
 his two-fold villainy, without paying the wages 
 that were due to him, applied to a native lawyer 
 in Soccasoo for advice ; but the learned Falatah 
 having patiently listened to the details of his 
 case, discarded him, with the assurance, that if 
 he had been Abdullah (Captain Clapperton's 
 travelling name), instead of rewarding him, he 
 would have cut off his head ! 
 
 Under this consolation the old man, having a 
 small sum of money in his possession, turned 
 snuff-merchant, but being cheated by every 
 body, became insolvent in the course of a very 
 short time, and, in order to procure a slender 
 maintenance, was ultimately obliged to cut wood 
 from a neighbouring forest. In the height 
 of his prosperity as a tradesman, Pasko, for- 
 getting all his former vows and misfortunes 9 
 and contrary to his usual custom, formally paid 
 his addresses to a black slave, named Mattah 
 Gewow (literally Miss, or woman-elephant), in
 
 264 PASKO'S COURTSHIP. 
 
 the household of Ben Gumso, an Arab. This 
 woman, a native of Yariba, which country is no- 
 torious for ugly females, had a countenance in- 
 expressibly hideous, but was well known by all 
 ranks in Soccasoo, as the most experienced 
 maker of tuah * which that or any other city 
 could produce. In addition to the other attrac- 
 tions of this lady, a huge white tooth hung from 
 her upper jaw, affectionately embracing the ne- 
 ther lip ; and her chin was bristled most divinely 
 with a slender but conspicuous and stubborn 
 beard, she being the only individual of her sex 
 I had seen in the country possessing so mascu- 
 line an ornament. Mattah Gewow was in the 
 decline of life, having seen between fifty and 
 sixty dry seasons pass over her head, and had, 
 in her earlier years, been allured from the paths 
 of innocence and virtue by a blind fiddler in 
 the pay of the late and present sultan, who 
 had refused to make her reparation by marriage. 
 From that period to the time of our visiting 
 Soccasoo, no sable swain had been emboldened 
 
 * A kind of pudding made of flour, butter, and eggs.
 
 PASKO'S COURTSHIP. 265 
 
 to pay her any marked attentions; and the 
 injured woman was inconsolable under the 
 thoughts of living for ever in " single blessed- 
 ness," when the affectionate Pasko, having casu- 
 ally partaken of her far-famed tuah, pronounced 
 it to be the best he had ever tasted, and imme- 
 diately offered his heart and person, which, after 
 a few invisible blushes on the lady's part, were 
 modestly accepted. The betrothed, as soon as 
 they perfectly understood each other, spent all 
 their leisure moments in their own delightful 
 society, Pasko extolling the charms of the peer- 
 less Miss Elephant to the skies, and Miss Ele- 
 phant returning the compliment by perpetually 
 discovering fresh subjects for admiration and 
 love in the person and physiognomy of the in- 
 comparable snuff-merchant. Thus the first few 
 evenings of their courtship w r ere passed, at 
 which time I was a constant visiter at Ben 
 Gumso's, and often overheard their tender dis- 
 course. I broke in upon the lovers one day 
 rather unexpectedly, in the midst of their dalli- 
 ance, when Pasko was pouring out an eloquent 
 VOL. i. N
 
 266 MARRIAGE PREPARATIONS. 
 
 and passionate eulogium on the graces of his 
 Mattah, who, on observing me, . at ,biu 
 
 " Blush'd at the praise of her own loveliness ! " 
 
 and, with her adorer, looked exceedingly foolish. 
 Being unwilling to disturb the harmony that 
 had prevailed before my intrusion, I left the 
 happy couple to enjoy themselves as they 
 thought proper, and quitted the house. 
 
 A day having been fixed upon for the mar- 
 riage ceremony, the suitor determined to spend 
 it jovially ; and his own finances being at a very 
 low ebb, he borrowed four thousand cowries of 
 Ben Gumso, in order that nothing might be 
 wanting to stamp dignity and consequence on 
 the celebration of the festival. Pasko had just 
 before embraced Islamism, and rigidly observed 
 the outward rules of that belief; besides which 
 he was well skilled in all the learning and know- 
 ledge of the Falatahs ; so that the Arab did not 
 hesitate to advance him the money he sought, 
 on the faith of his bare promise of re-payment. 
 The evening preceding the ceremony, Pasko 
 sent a present of snuff, an old shirt, &c. to Mat-
 
 THE MARRIAGE. 267 
 
 tab, which was acknowleged by a bow] of rich 
 tuah; and the compact was thus formally ra- 
 tified. On the following morning the " fatha" 
 was read, and Pasko and the lovely Mattah be- 
 came man and wife. Agreeably to promise, the 
 happy bridegroom spent the day merrily with a 
 friend or two he had invited ; but so far forgot 
 himself, his newly-adopted religion, and the 
 respect he owed his bride, that towards evening 
 he became intoxicated ; indeed so much so that 
 he was bereaved of his reason ; and Mattah, who 
 was only tipsy, perceiving her husband in this 
 pickle, was very wrath, and pouring a whole 
 bowl of hot half-boiled tuah over his head, face, 
 and breast, gave him a sound drubbing with an 
 empty calabash, and turned the unfortunate 
 snuff-merchant out into the street half dead, 
 where he remained in a state of insensibility till 
 the next morning. On awaking, and finding 
 himself bespattered from head to foot with tuah, 
 Pasko had a confused recollection of the pre- 
 ceding evening's debauch, and its disastrous 
 consequences; but instead of disturbing the 
 
 N2
 
 268 PASKO'S MISFORTUNE. 
 
 slumbers of his amiable wife, he strolled list- 
 lessly towards our hut, sorely distressed in mind 
 and body, where I met him an hour or so after- 
 wards, the end of his tobe being completely sa- 
 turated with his tears, which were yet flowing, 
 and his whole appearance looking uncommonly 
 grotesque. After making me acquainted with 
 the melancholy tale of his mishap, he begged 
 me to use my influence in order to compromise 
 matters betwixt his gentle consort and himself, 
 and assured me that if I succeeded, when oc- 
 casion needed, he would cheerfully lay down his 
 life for me. 
 
 Wishing to be better acquainted with a wo- 
 man, whose excessive ugliness and skilful tuah- 
 making were the table talk of the whole king- 
 dom of Houssa, I willingly embraced the propo- 
 sition, and making a visit to Ben Gumso's, had 
 the good fortune to reconcile the angry lady to 
 her sorrowing lord, after which they lived very 
 happily together, till Pasko's bankruptcy broke 
 in upon their domestic felicity, and drove the 
 ill-fated man into the woods. To the credit of
 
 MATTAH'S TENDERNESS. 269 
 
 Mattah, however, be it spoken, she did not 
 abandon her husband in his mournful reverse 
 of fortune ; but, with an attachmeut worthy of 
 her sex, supplied him, as far as she was able, 
 with food and raiment ; and their parting inter- 
 view, on Pasko's leaving Soccatoo with me, was 
 beyond description natural, tender, and pa- 
 thetic.
 
 270 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Religion Laws Government Amusements, &c. of the Natives 
 from Badagry to Soccatoo Slavery in the interior countries 
 Timidity of the people State of the arts amongst them Dry 
 and wet seasons. 
 
 THE religion of the natives from Badagry to 
 Soccatoo is either Mohammedism or Paganism; 
 or, as it frequently appeared to us, a mixture of 
 both, so nicely blended, as to make it impossible 
 to ascertain with accuracy which belief had the 
 ascendancy. Idols, or figures of birds, beasts, 
 and reptiles, are worshipped in Badagry, Jan- 
 nah, and Yaribas exclusively, while in the king- 
 doms of Borghoo, Nyffe, and Houssa, Islamism 
 prevails in a greater or less degree. 
 
 The professors of the former faith have a 
 vague and indistinct notion of one great Being 
 reigning above the skies, who is infinitely supe- 
 rior to everv other in the nature of his attri-
 
 RELIGION. 271 
 
 butes, and the extent of his power and influence. 
 To this unknown God they pay divine adora- 
 tion, through the medium of insignificant and 
 inanimate objects, by the offering up of sacrifices 
 to the latter, under the belief that the Great Spirit 
 exists at so immeasurable a distance from them, 
 and his time is so much employed in other 
 and more important matters, that he cannot 
 listen to the prayers of every individual. In con- 
 sequence of this he appoints innumerable sub- 
 ordinate agents and machines, who aid and as- 
 sist him, and minister to the affairs of mankind. 
 They believe also in the existence of a powerful 
 malevolent Spirit, who endeavours to counteract 
 the good deeds of the Most High by every 
 means, and is the author of all the mischief that 
 annoys them. The people stand in the greatest 
 dread of the power and machinations of this 
 terrible demon, and strive to avert his wrath, 
 and conciliate his favour, by oblations of dogs, 
 sheep, and, in many cases, of human beings. 
 Fetish-huts are the temples of their worship, 
 which are regarded with superstitious awe by 
 rich and poor ; and are each furnished with one
 
 272 RELIGION. 
 
 or more priests, who alone are acquainted with 
 the mysteries of their religion. Some of the 
 people are very sincere in their devotional ex- 
 ercises, which are energetic and simple ; whilst 
 many pay little respect to the exterior forms of 
 worship, openly ridiculing those who profess a 
 greater share of sanctity than themselves ; and, 
 whenever they are unsuccessful in their pursuits 
 and enterprizes, even belabour their household 
 gods without mercy. They entertain also 
 an idea that the soul hovers round the scenes it 
 had known in the body, for an indefinite length 
 of time ; but that it is ultimately conducted to a 
 place of happiness or misery ; a kind of heaven 
 for the peaceable, and hell for the turbulent, 
 according to the deeds it has suggested in this 
 life, and there to remain everlastingly. Both Mo- 
 hammedan and Pagan attach miraculous qua- 
 lities to fetishes or charms, which to them are an 
 effectual panoply against every danger ; some- 
 times a chief or great man is actually covered 
 with them from head to foot, and in this state 
 considers himself as secure as Achilles in his 
 armour. I have often been urged to discharge
 
 RELIGION. 273 
 
 a pistol, loaded with ball, at the breast of an in- 
 dividual thus supernaturally defended, but -it is 
 unnecessary to say that I never risked the men's 
 lives at the expence of their ignorance and cre- 
 dulity, having endeavoured in every instance, 
 although unsuccessfully, to persuade them out 
 of their superstitious prejudices by less dan- 
 gerous experiments. The natives appear to 
 have no gloomy foreboding as the hour of death 
 approaches ; nor do they, as I had often been 
 given to understand, anticipate dissolution with 
 any symptoms of fear or alarm. 
 
 Those who profess the Mohammedan re- 
 ligion amongst the negroes are as ignorant and 
 superstitious as their idolatrous brethren; nor 
 does it appear that their having adopted a new 
 creed has either improved their manners, or 
 bettered their state and condition in life. On 
 the contrary, I have generally found the fol- 
 lowers of the Prophet to be less hospitable to 
 strangers, less kind to each other, and infinitely 
 more mischievous and wicked than the heathen 
 portions of the community, whom they, whimsi- 
 cally enough, affect to despise as rude barba- 
 N 5
 
 274 RELIGION. 
 
 rians, although their claims to superior intelli- 
 gence are grounded simply on the oral commu- 
 nications of the principles of the Koran, re- 
 ceived from time to time from the wandering 
 Moors and Arabs ; or from traditionary legends 
 of their country. The artful Arabian, however, 
 withholds from them a full half of the little he 
 himself may be acquainted with, taking care to 
 teach them no more than is absolutely necessary 
 to promote his own views, and enlarge his 
 own interests. The Mohammedan negroes go 
 through their ablutions regularly, and when 
 water is not to be obtained, make use of sand, 
 as the Koran enjoins. The Tuaricks, or 
 " Bereberes," (Children of the Desert,) adopt 
 the latter method on all occasions, the trouble 
 of applying water, even when they have abund- 
 ance within their reach, being too irksome and 
 unpleasant for them. 
 
 The Falatahs, who profess Islamism, under- 
 stand and make use of a few Arabic prayers, 
 but the negro that can utter so long a sentence 
 as : " La illah el Allah rasoul allahi ! " (There 
 is but one God, and Mohammed is his prophet,)
 
 RELIGION. 275 
 
 is stvled mallam, or learned, and is regarded 
 with looks of respect and reverence by his less 
 intelligent countrymen. These mallams are 
 scattered in great numbers over the country, 
 and procure an easy and respectable subsistence 
 by making fetishes, or writing charms on bits 
 of wood, which are washed off' carefully into a 
 bason, and drunk with avidity by the credulous 
 multitude, who consider the dirty water used in 
 the operation as a panacea for every disease 
 and affliction. As the office of mallam, which 
 answers to that of priest in Catholic countries, 
 is one of great sanctity as well as considerable 
 emolument, every one burns with impatience 
 to get initiated into its sacred mysteries, and 
 enjoy a like comfortable and indolent life as the 
 mallams themselves ; for a learned man never 
 toils or spins, but is bountifully fed, and pam- 
 pered in luxury by his lay countrymen. Every 
 caravan is furnished with one or more of these 
 corpulent drones, who loll at their ease, while 
 their employers are at the same time, perhaps, 
 actually killing themselves with over-exertion. 
 Few of the negroes can articulate in Arabic
 
 276 ARAB EMIRS. 
 
 more than the word " Allah," or " Bismillah," 
 believing that the frequent repetition of the 
 former of these expressions can absolve them 
 from all sin, without any further demonstration 
 of their zeal and sincerity. Even after the com- 
 mittal of a capital offence, should the criminal 
 be almost immediately executed, and " Allah !" 
 is heard to tremble on his closing lips, the mul- 
 titude firmly believe that his soul will inevitably 
 be conveyed to the third Heaven, and be happy 
 for evermore. 
 
 Swarms of sheriffs, or emirs, the real or fic- 
 titious descendants of Mohammed and Ali, have 
 crossed the desert, and practice their disgraceful 
 impositions to so great an extent, that the eyes 
 of the natives are partially opened to their chi- 
 canery, and they are often regarded as charac- 
 ters with whom it would be dangerous to meddle. 
 
 The belief in the " Evil Eye," is equally com- 
 mon with Mohammedan as Pagan, and this su- 
 perstition, borrowed from the Moors, has lost 
 none of its fearful interest by being transplanted 
 to, a foreign soil. If sickness of any kind visits 
 a child before it has attained the age of three or
 
 MOHAMMEDANISM. 277 
 
 four years, then say the people the " Evil Eye, 
 is fixed upon it," and the relatives of the afflicted 
 infant endeavour to avert the wasting glance of 
 the malevolent and unseen spirit by sacrifices of 
 birds, and various other means. 
 
 Mallams from Houssa reside in almost every 
 town of consequence through which we passed 
 on our journey into the interior, propagating 
 their religion, and teaching the inhabitants to 
 read and write as much as they themselves 
 know. The Mohammedan faith is spreading 
 daily and rapidly by this means, particularly in 
 Nyffe, hundreds of the natives of that kingdom 
 having lost sight of their ancient prejudices, and 
 the religion of their forefathers, and embraced 
 the more congenial tenets of Islamism. In 
 some cities or towns, however, these mallams 
 have been very roughly handled by the people, 
 and many of them have lost their lives in dis- 
 seminating, with too great eagerness, their opi^ 
 nions amongst the worshippers of idols. As an 
 instance of this, five holy men, two or three of 
 whom were Arab emirs, visited Katunga, the 
 capital of Yariba, a few years since, and im-
 
 278 FETISH PRIESTS. 
 
 mediately began to spread the dogmas of their 
 faith amongst the inhabitants, publicly teaching 
 their children to read the Koran, &c. The 
 priests of the fetish, who, in regard to their reli- 
 gious observances, surprizingly resemble the 
 Druids of England before the Conquest, became 
 sensibly alarmed at the rapid progress of another 
 and strange belief, so inimical to their best inter- 
 ests, and tending to the injury, if not the complete 
 overthrow, of the power and influence which 
 they themselves and their ancestors had exer- 
 cised for a series of ages over the minds and 
 actions of the votaries of Paganism. They went 
 in a body to their monarch, the present king, 
 threatening him with the loss of his empire, if 
 he persisted in tolerating the religious principles 
 broached by the mallams. This denunciation 
 so intimidated the superstitious prince, that he 
 was frightened into a compliance with their 
 wishes of appointing a day, or rather night, for 
 the assassination of the unsuspecting Mussul- 
 mans, which was accordingly carried into exe- 
 cution, and Ben Gumso, my old friend in 
 Soccatoo, was the only one amongst the number
 
 BEN GUMSO. 279 
 
 who escaped with life. This learned Arab was 
 indebted to one of the wives of his Yaribean 
 majesty, for his flight and preservation. Hav- 
 ing overheard part of the conversation between 
 her royal consort and the fetish-priests, and 
 entertaining some share of veneration for the 
 expounders of a doctrine she secretly approved 
 of, as well as feeling compassion for them, in 
 consequence of their premeditated massacre, the 
 queen embraced the earliest opportunity of 
 apprizing Ben Gumso of the danger that threat- 
 ened his companions and himself; but this being 
 done only a few seconds before the execution of 
 the sentence, the Arab was obliged to elope in a 
 state of nudity from his house, without having 
 leisure to bestow a single thought on his ill- 
 fated associates. 
 
 From that period a mallam has never ven- 
 tured to enter the gates of Katunga, and the 
 Mohammedan religion was soon forgotten by 
 the people. They have, however, penetrated 
 beyond the empire of Yariba, two Houssa holy 
 men, having found their way to Jannah, the 
 town in which Dr. Morrison, it is said, died
 
 280 1SLAMISM. 
 
 and was buried, and three others to Badagry ; 
 but more of these individuals are allowed openly 
 to profess their religion, or teach the children 
 of the inhabitants to read, on pain of death ; 
 and, they are, moreover, looked upon with the 
 greatest suspicion. The mallams, in the latter 
 city, were not permitted to make themselves 
 known to us on our journey into the interior, 
 nor to me on my return, till after I had swal- 
 lowed the fetish-water, when they visited me 
 with presents of fowls, ducks, and rice, and 
 testified the sincerest pleasure on my answering 
 their earnest interrogations respecting their na- 
 tive country. 
 
 Nevertheless, in the course of a generation or 
 two, I have no doubt, in spite of every obstacle, 
 that the religion of Mohammed, in its exterior 
 forms and ceremonies at least, will be univer- 
 sally adopted in Western and Central Africa, 
 to the complete discomforture of the fetish- 
 priests and their proselytes; and unless some 
 unforseen convulsion arrest the hasty and gigan- 
 tic strides Islamism is making towards that 
 consummation, and divert the minds of the
 
 281 
 
 people to other objects, the period does not seem 
 to be very remote when Paganism will be un- 
 known in the land. 
 
 In a rude state of society nothing can be more 
 simple than the laws and punishments of the 
 people. In several of the Pagan countries of 
 the interior of Africa, having no written code, 
 the natives appoint elders to administer justice, 
 at the head of whom the King, or chief, generally 
 presides. In petty cases, such as trifling assaults 
 and other misdemeanors, the parties concerned 
 compromise the matter without referring it to 
 the general assembly. In Badagry the fetish- 
 priests are the sole judges of the people, and 
 the statutes of their country, like those of the 
 Druids, are recorded in their own breasts only, 
 consequently they are mostly swayed in their 
 decisions by interest, or influenced by prejudice 
 and passion ; but in no instance are they mur- 
 mured against by either plaintiff or defendant. 
 
 Murder, adultery, and theft, are the most ge- 
 neral crimes, and in many African countries are
 
 282 LAWS. 
 
 punishable with death, banishment, or perpetual 
 imprisonment. In Yariba and Nyffe, the rela- 
 tives of a murdered man may, and often do, 
 accept of a sum of money, named by them, from 
 the criminal, which is considered equivalent to 
 corporal punishment. In Badagry, Borghoo, 
 and Houssa, however, an individual guilty of 
 slaying a free man, if apprehended, instantly 
 loses his life, and his body is left to be devoured 
 by vultures. 
 
 In cases of adultery, the injured husband is 
 at liberty to do what he pleases with his unfaith- 
 ful partner, even to the taking away her life ; and 
 if her seducer has not money enough at his dis- 
 posal to satisfy the former for the loss of his 
 honor, the same punishment may be inflicted 
 upon him also. The extreme rigor of the laws 
 on this head occasions instances of adultery to 
 be exceedingly rare in every other country but 
 Borghoo, where the punishment attending it 
 being infinitely less rigidly exacted, the offence is 
 more generally prevalent. 
 
 Theft, in Nyffe, is punished by imprison- 
 ment of the party or parties ; and in all aggra-
 
 LAWS. 283 
 
 vated cases the criminal is confined in irons, in 
 a large gloomy dungeon, for a given number of 
 years, where he is compelled to labour in various 
 avocations till the expiration of the term ex- 
 pressed in his sentence. In Yariba the crime of 
 stealing, owing to the dreadful severity of pu- 
 nishment that awaits delinquents, is by no means 
 common among the people. Free men, found 
 guilty of larceny, are operated upon, and re- 
 tained by the king or his chiefs as guardians for 
 their numerous wives. In this state they are 
 equal in value to five prime slaves ; and it makes 
 no difference if the thief be the father of a large 
 family, or the husband of many females, and re- 
 spectable as to wealth and connections, the sen- 
 tence is on all occasions rigorously enforced. 
 Those who effect robberies of greater magni- 
 tude, or burglaries (if free men), are chastised 
 in the same singular manner, after which the 
 tattoo mark of their country is cancelled (consist- 
 ing simply of having the face cut and gashed in 
 a thousand places), that of another nation sub- 
 stituted, and when partially recovered from the 
 effects of the wounds, the miserable wretches are
 
 284 LAWS. 
 
 driven, like beasts, to the sea-coast, and sold 
 into perpetual slavery. Slaves guilty of theft, 
 or indeed of almost any other crime, are uni- 
 formly decapitated in Yariba, without the benefit 
 of trial ; whereas all free men are judged impar- 
 tially by the elders of the people in the hearing 
 of the king, in the palaver-house, or hall of 
 council. 
 
 Yarro, ruler of Khiama, a province of Bor- 
 ghoo, encourages theft, by appropriating part of 
 the stolen property to his own use, which is ge- 
 nerally presented to him by the robber in per- 
 son ; but if an individual, after being successful 
 in a depredation, forgets or refuses to tender the 
 accustomed portion of the spoil to his sovereign, 
 he is immediately beheaded, and the whole of his 
 property falls to the king. On my return to 
 that country I was informed by several of the 
 natives, that as soon as their prince heard of our 
 approaching his territories from Yariba, he 
 caused a proclamation to be issued in every town 
 through which we were expected to pass, pro- 
 hibiting the inhabitants from stealing even a 
 needle from the white men, and threatening with
 
 GOVERNMENT. 285 
 
 death every one that infringed this law. To 
 this wholesome and timely declaration of Yarro 
 I attribute the great respect in which our per- 
 sons were held by the multitude, and the reve- 
 rence with which they regarded our property 
 and effects. 
 
 In Yariba and Borghoo, as well as in several 
 other countries, when women find themselves 
 enceintes, they must immediately inform their hus- 
 bands of the circumstance ; or in attempt at 
 concealment, are publicly flogged. The same 
 punishment is also inflicted on females who are 
 known to associate with the other sex before the 
 expiration of three years after the birth of an 
 infant, that being the period mothers are obliged 
 to suckle their offspring. 
 
 GOVERNMENT. 
 
 The government of Badagry, Yariba, Nyffe, 
 and Houssa, is a perfect and unlimited despo- 
 tism, the sovereigns of those countries exercising 
 absolute power over the lives and property of 
 their subjects, as well as the privilege of enacting 
 the most arbitrary laws, and other acts peculiar
 
 286 GOVERNMENT. 
 
 to the kingly office. The government of Bor- 
 ghoo, however, partakes more of the nature of 
 a limited monarchy than of real despotism, the 
 people sharing, in some degree, in the manage- 
 ment of the state, through the representation of 
 the chiefs or elders of towns, who, like the feu- 
 dal barons of England in the reign of John, 
 have considerable influence with their sovereign, 
 and are consulted in all affairs of consequence. 
 These chiefs, themselves, are oftentimes factious 
 and turbulent, fomenting innumerable broils 
 and wranglings amongst the people in their re- 
 spective jurisdictions, to gratify with a better 
 grace their own private feelings of resentment, 
 and to disturb the public peace by arbitrary and 
 unlawful proceedings. The people of Boussa, 
 the principal state in Borghoo, together with 
 those of its sister provinces of Youri, Wow 
 Wow, and Khiama, are indebted to the Bor- 
 nouese for their origin ; or at least the traditions 
 of the natives intimate that Borghoo was colo- 
 nized from Bornou at a remote era, in which 
 opinion all classes implicitly believe ; and, like 
 the Carthaginians of old, the people of the for-
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 287 
 
 mer kingdom are not forgetful of their deriva- 
 tion, but send annually a number of presents by 
 way of acknowledgment to their ancient country; 
 although of late years, owing to the disturbances 
 of the Falatahs, the accustomed presents have 
 not been received in Bornou with the same 
 punctuality as formerly. 
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 The recreations of the Africans are few and 
 simple. At Wow Wow horse-racing takes 
 place every Friday, (the Mohammedan Sab- 
 bath,) immediately after the compliments of the 
 day are over. The course, which is a mile in 
 length, is kept clean and free from grass, &c. by 
 persons appointed for that purpose by the king; 
 and the race is extremely well contested, excit- 
 ing amongst the people generally as lively an 
 interest as the same sport does in the minds of 
 my own countrymen. The competitors are 
 oftentimes twelve or fourteen in number, and 
 the rider of the swiftest horse obtains no other 
 reward than the honor of the deed itself, and 
 the privilege of dancing, at the conclusion of the
 
 288 AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 game, with the king, queens, and princesses of 
 Wow Wow ! The inhabitants, on these occa- 
 sions, attire themselves in their gayest apparel, 
 and, in the evening, assembling in groups in dif- 
 ferent parts of the town, pass many an hour in 
 singing, dancing, and carousing, till, towards 
 morning, they go tipsy to bed. Horse-racing 
 is, I believe, peculiar to Wow Wow ; for in no 
 other African country that I have heard of (except 
 perhaps Khiama), or that came within the reach 
 of my own observation, is a similar amusement 
 preserved. The people of Borghoo divert them- 
 selves by playing at a kind of chequers, and 
 throwing cowries from a certain distance into a 
 hole previously dug in the earth; the latter 
 amusement is somewhat similar to our " pitch 
 and toss," and is cultivated by all ranks and both 
 sexes with uncommon ardour. In addition to 
 these pastimes, the higher orders spend whole 
 days in hunting and fishing. 
 
 SONGS, MUSIC, &c. 
 
 If the character of a nation may be judged of 
 by its Songs, the Africans undoubtedly would
 
 MUSIC. 289 
 
 be pronounced as the boldest and most martial, 
 as well as the most amorous people, on the face 
 of the globe. Their strains breathe nothing but 
 love and war, and contempt of death ; but their 
 conduct, instead of corresponding with such 
 lofty ideas, is the most pusillanimous imaginable, 
 scarcely one amongst them ever evincing a soli- 
 tary trait of true courage or resolution. Of all 
 figures of speech, they most delight in the use of 
 the " apostrophe; " and it is not uncommon, even 
 but a single day after a defeat, to hear them 
 calling aloud on the names of their absent adver- 
 saries, and bestowing upon them all manner of 
 cowardly and reproachful epithets. 
 
 " Our enemies tremble and are dismayed 
 when they hear of our approach," sing the 
 people of Yariba ; " and at sight of our arrows 
 they die with fear ! See them fleeing like the 
 doe from our righting men ! Behold them fall- 
 ing down and kissing the dust from the feet of 
 our warriors ! Haste, haste, Yaribeans ! pursue 
 and overtake your enemies ; slay them without 
 mercy ; stop their voices, that they sing no more 
 at eventide by the light of the moon ; they are 
 
 VOL. i. o
 
 290 MUSIC. 
 
 swift of foot, but they shall not escape you; they 
 are already weary ; their journey of life is almost 
 at an end ; they have fallen to the earth, and 
 will dance no more. Weep, ye widows of Houssa, 
 and let the lamentations of your children be 
 heard in the land, for they are fatherless, and 
 your husbands have been pierced by the lance of 
 Yariba ! They are clothed in darkness, as the 
 noon in a storm. Who can tell whither their 
 spirits are wandering? Weep, ye widows of 
 Houssa ; but your tears flow in vain : your hus- 
 bands will return no more ! " 
 
 This is the nature of the strains sung by the 
 females of Katunga, (principally the king's 
 wives,) at the celebration of their solemn feasts 
 and festivals : the Houssans (or rather the Fula- 
 tahs of that country) being their most inveterate 
 enemies, are on all occasions the subject of their 
 poetry, and are made to flee from the Yaribeans 
 in imagination, whilst in reality they are worsted 
 in every engagement. Their social and domestic 
 songs, however, are delivered in recitative, (as 
 are likewise those of the people of Borghoo,) and 
 are the reverse of their public and national ones.
 
 MUSIC. 291 
 
 The young females in both kingdoms that may 
 happen to have strong clear voices, are generally 
 selected as wives, or rather concubines, for the 
 ruling monarchs. Their office is principally to 
 attend on the king's person, and sing and fan 
 him to sleep, and the ladies consume great part 
 of the day in these avocations ; to vary which 
 they sometimes play music and whistle for a long 
 time together. These ladies also dally with 
 their sovereign, by flinging their arms round his 
 neck, arranging his sable locks with their fingers, 
 playing the fool with his face, and a thousand 
 other fantastic inventions to amuse him, such as 
 the sex know so well how to avail themselves of 
 all over the world. It is the custom in Europe 
 for gentlemen to flatter the "graces of the fair 
 sex, whereas in Africa the practice is completely 
 reversed; for the most extravagant encomiums 
 are lavished on the beauty and blandishments of 
 mankind by the gentler part of the creation. 
 
 The following imperfect translation of a song, 
 recited by his young wives, to the sovereign of 
 Khiama, may serve as a specimen of the whole 
 of their amatory poetry :
 
 292 MUSIC. 
 
 " Yarrow is fair among men: he shines like a 
 star of the night ; who so beautiful as Yarrow ? 
 His eyes have greater lustre than the antelope's 
 more ardour than a young lion's, when he cap- 
 tures his prey. His form is elegant as the palm- 
 tree ; he is gentle as a kid when she follows her 
 dam. But Yarrow is brave in fight ; his enemies 
 tremble at the sound of his name, as a leaf shaken 
 by the wind; they fall to the earth beneath 
 the power of his arm, for he is a mountain of 
 strength. The turtle dove is not so affectionate 
 as our king ; doth he not cherish his wives and 
 concubines? Who so lovely as Yarrow ? When 
 he is pleased, the moon is not so mild as the 
 light of his countenance; but when he frowns, 
 who shall withstand his wrath ? His face lowers 
 like the clouds of heaven in a tempest; O, he is 
 terrible in battle ! Awake and be glad, ye 
 daughters of Khiama ; sing, ye sons, to the praise 
 of our lord, for he is fair as the morning, and his 
 countenance is like the sun in his strength. 
 He is fair among men ; who so beautiful as 
 Yarrow ? " 
 
 It would be as difficult to detach singing and
 
 MUSIC AND DANCING. 
 
 293 
 
 dancing from the character of an African, as to 
 
 chancre the colour of his skin. I do not think he 
 
 o 
 
 would live a single week in his own country 
 without participating in these his favourite amuse- 
 ments ; to deprive him of which would be indeed 
 worse than death. In every grade of society, 
 from the monarch to the meanest slave, he is 
 also fond of instrumental music, even to a pas- 
 sion, and a European fiddler (provided he be 
 not blind,) with no very extraordinary preten- 
 sions to excellence in his profession, might travel 
 with ease and comfort, even if he were destitute 
 of a single cowry, from Badagry to Bornou. 
 He would be received every where with open 
 arms, lodged in palaces, and sumptuously fed ; 
 although he might, perhaps, feel some trifling 
 inconvenience from excess of kindness, and com- 
 pulsory detention for a day or two in the prin- 
 cipal cities. But, notwithstanding their strong 
 partiality for this kind of music, the instruments 
 of the Africans are of the rudest description. A 
 large drum, made from the trunk of a tree, and 
 covered with sheep-skin ; a long brass trumpet, 
 from Barbary ; the Arab fiddle, and a kind of
 
 294 31USIC AND DANCING. 
 
 dulcimer, formed of bamboo, and played upon 
 with two little sticks, are great favorites in all 
 the interior countries. The people have also 
 guitars, bag-pipes, and tubes of iron, which 
 answer the purpose of tin plates, the sound pro- 
 duced being very similar to the noise of those 
 instruments; but a little flute, like a child's 
 penny whistle in England, is most admired by 
 the Africans ; and of all their music this is cer- 
 tainly the most harmonious. Yet even on these 
 instruments they perform most vilely, and pro- 
 duce a horribly discordant noise, which may, 
 perhaps, be delightful to their own ears ; but to 
 strangers, if they have the misfortune to be too 
 near the performers, no sounds can be more 
 harsh and disagreeable than such a concert. 
 
 Of all the amusements of the Africans, none 
 can equal their song and dance in the still, clear 
 hours of night, when the moon, walking in 
 beauty in the heavens, awakens all the milder 
 affections of their nature, and invites them to 
 gladness and mirth. As soon as this splendid 
 luminary appears above the horizon, every indi- 
 vidual, both slave and free, is on the alert, some
 
 MUSIC AND DANCING. 295 
 
 to fetch wood from a neighbouring forest, and 
 others to procure provisions in the village ; and 
 forming themselves in a circle, generally round a 
 venerable tree, they prepare large fires, in order 
 to frighten away any wild beasts that may be 
 prowling near the spot, and begin their country 
 dance, which does not differ from one extremity 
 of the continent to the other. I have often been 
 a party to these innocent entertainments, which 
 are frequently kept up with inconceivable spirit 
 and agility, till the approach of morning ; and 
 as often been delighted with the perfect har- 
 mony and kindly feeling that prevailed amongst 
 die dancers. It produces a pleasing and ro- 
 mantic effect, to observe the silvery light of the 
 moon, blending with the radiance of the flames, 
 and thrown upon the sable countenances of the 
 happy group, as well as the lengthened reflec- 
 tion of the majestic tree cast along the ground, 
 and the moving figures, gliding like shadows 
 across it. 
 
 On these occasions all care is completely 
 laid aside, and every one delivers himself up 
 *rtc Ji ife twij no sr ^jfl fa<m <mU* l
 
 296 HOUSSA SONG. 
 
 to the dissipation of the moment, without a 
 thought of the morrow, his heart having no 
 vacuum for melancholy anticipations. During 
 the intervals of the dance and song, the party 
 either eat and drink, or re-kindle the fires, after 
 which they begin again with renewed ardour. 
 Their songs are composed extempore by one 
 of the party, who recites to his or her com- 
 panions, and they all join in the strain. They 
 do not contain many poetical beauties, but allude 
 generally to the dancers themselves, to the dread 
 of wild beasts, or commands or entreaties for a 
 particular person to fetch wood. The following, 
 sung in my presence, may serve as a translated 
 specimen of all of them : 
 
 Come, let us join the dance and song, 
 The moon is bright in heaven ; 
 
 No anxious cares to us belong, 
 To cloud this lovely even. 
 
 The white man midst our festive glee 
 
 Forgets his father-land ; 
 And the group laughs around our tree 
 
 By gentle zephyrs fann'd.
 
 HOUSSA SONG. 
 
 297 
 
 Haste, Nalla,* to yon forest shade, 
 And feed the flickering flame ; 
 
 How swiftly flies the panting maid 
 To earn a deathless name ! f 
 
 The panther's yell the lion's roar 
 Resound from wood to wood ; 
 
 How gladly would they spill our gore ! 
 How gladly lap our blood ! 
 
 But we are safe they dare not come 
 
 To mar our evening sport ; 
 Scared by the fire, or sounding drum, 
 
 They other pleasures court. 
 
 Then join the merry dance and song ; 
 
 The moon is high in heaven ; 
 No anxious cares to us belong, 
 
 To cloud this lovely even. 
 
 When heard at a distance, in the midst of 
 solitary woods, the vocal music of the natives has 
 a pleasing plaintive effect, equalling in softness 
 any I have heard in more civilized countries ; 
 and Captain Clapperton and myself used to re- 
 
 * A female's slave. 
 
 f The act of fetching wood in the night season, by reason of 
 the existence of wild beasts in the woods, is considered an enter- 
 prize of danger; and those who accept the proposal are 
 greatly eulogised, and held up as examples for others to copy. 
 
 o 5
 
 298 SLAVERY. 
 
 main awake in our tent for hours together, lis- 
 tening to its melancholy strains. 
 
 It is not to be expected that after these mid- 
 night revelries the people are in a condition to 
 rise at a very early hour; indeed the gene- 
 rality of Africans are constitutionally inclined 
 to indolence, a disease which the relaxing nature 
 of their climate by no means tends to lessen ; and 
 when not obliged to labour, they feel no desire 
 to over-exert themselves, or to shake off their 
 drowsiness, except from a call of necessity. Their 
 soil, in fact, in most parts is so surprisingly 
 rich and productive, as to supersede the neces- 
 sity of that laborious manual exertion which the 
 cultivation of it requires in many other regions ; 
 and in the absence of all intellectual amuse- 
 ments, they dole away the sultry hours of noon 
 in sleeping, lounging about from place to place, 
 gossiping, smoking, or drinking. 
 
 Slavery, from time immemorial, has flourished 
 in every nation and amongst every people in 
 the interior countries, and seems to be im-
 
 SLAVERY. 299 
 
 planted so deeply in the soil, that the slightest 
 hope cannot be entertained of its being speedily 
 outrooted. The slave, however, in most interior 
 districts, is treated with infinitely greater lenity 
 and kindness than among the less civilized na- 
 tives of the sea coast ; and the condition of the 
 slaves of European planters is not to be com- 
 pared with his, for happiness and comfort. If his 
 character be good, and his honesty unques- 
 tioned, the slave of the African is admitted into 
 the house of his master, placed on an equality 
 with himself and male children, thrusts his hand 
 into the same bowl of tuah as they, shares their 
 confidence, and participates in all their plea- 
 sures and amusements. An instance is never 
 known of a dependant, having an unblemished 
 character, and active industrious habits, being 
 sent to the coast to be sold ; in fact, every one 
 considers this to be the greatest punishment 
 that can be inflicted upon him, the idea of the 
 whites eating their countrymen, and dyeing 
 their clothes red with their blood, being as ge- 
 neral and as deeply-rooted as in the nations 
 through which Mr. Park travelled twenty or
 
 300 SLAVERY. 
 
 thirty years ago. Those sent to the sea-side 
 from the interior are invariably the scum and 
 refuse of the country, freebooters, lawless re- 
 fractory fellows, adulterers, and even murderers. 
 Upon the whole, I should consider the situation 
 of the domestic slave of Africa (their relative 
 feelings compared), to be more enviable than 
 that of the household servant of Europe, inas- 
 much as a feeling of dependence never enters 
 the mind of the former, and, as it has already 
 been observed, he is placed in almost every res- 
 pect on an equality with his master. 
 
 Nature has wisely endowed the African with 
 a bouyant, cheerful, happy temper ; so that no 
 calamity, however great, no grief, however 
 poignant, is capable of making a deep or lasting 
 impression on his mind. He does indeed dis- 
 play a lively natural feeling when his infant 
 children are snatched forcibly from his em- 
 braces, or he himself torn from his home, and 
 kindred, and village-tree, to gaze upon strange 
 faces, and wander amongst foreign scenes ; but 
 this emotion is as evanescent as a flash of light- 
 ning ; he knows no fixed lasting sorrow ; past
 
 SLAVERY. 301 
 
 misfortunes are quickly swallowed up in present 
 enjoyment, while anticipations of the future have 
 no power to harass and perplex him, because 
 it is painful for him to think at all, and he 
 does not think. I have often seen disobe- 
 dient slaves, and slaves offered for sale, sing- 
 ing in chains and dancing in fetters, suffering 
 at the same time under a loathsome disease, 
 and an accumulation of misery, the very thoughts 
 of which would melt, even to tears, a sympa- 
 thizing English philanthropist ! For their parts, 
 they hardly know what a bitter moment is, and 
 enjoy themselves, although under such appa- 
 rently overwhelming circumstances, with as keen 
 a zest as if they had been surrounded by their 
 friends and companions, and dancing by the light 
 of the moon, underneath the branches of their fa- 
 vourite tree. In their toilsome journeyings from 
 one part of the country to another, it must be 
 admitted that the captured slaves undergo incre- 
 dible hardships ; yet when even they arrive at 
 the end of their march, all their woes are buried 
 for ever in a calabash of pitta or otee, and they 
 are as merry and thoughtless a day or two after- 
 wards as they ever were.
 
 302 NATIVE TIMIDITY. 
 
 On the coast, however, things wear a different 
 and far less agreeable aspect; the slaves there 
 are mostly captured from the neighbouring 
 states, and, suddenly losing their darling amuse- 
 ments, become melancholy and pensive on ship- 
 board. The confined, impure air of the vessel 
 augments their sufferings; and when, after land- 
 ing on an unknown, and to them an unlovely 
 soil, they writhe in agony under the excoriating 
 lash of the unfeeling planter, because they can- 
 not work, is it to be marvelled at that, driven to 
 almost desperation, they become morose, unso- 
 ciable, and headstrong? I have often been a 
 reluctant witness to such disgraceful spectacles, 
 and wondered it was in the power of a human 
 creature to undergo so rigorous a punishment 
 without a murmur. 
 
 TIMIDITY OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 A vein of true courage does not exist, I really 
 believe, in any individual of the nations we 
 visited. In most savage and half-civilized coun- 
 tries, such as the Tonga Islands, and the rarely 
 frequented districts of North America, for in-
 
 NATIVE TIMIDITY. 303 
 
 stance, sparks of noble resolution and greatness 
 of soul are oftentimes observable in the natives : 
 but the timidity of the African character is every 
 where apparent. The eyes of the Gooberites, 
 as well as those of the people of Borghoo, not un- 
 frequently flash with a wild expression of fero- 
 city, and their actions sometimes correspond 
 with this indication of a barbarous nature, but 
 it is not courage, and gradually fades at the ap- 
 proach of real danger. The people rarely make 
 an attack on each other, or on a common enemy, 
 excepting when they have a decided superiority 
 of numbers, or are placed under circumstances 
 peculiarly favourable to their operations ; and 
 even when this is the case, they are more mind- 
 ful of individual safety than the general welfare, 
 trusting rather to their heels than their arms to 
 make good their retreat, if the least danger 
 threatens them. They have no tradition of a 
 chief amongst them that possessed, when living, 
 a calm, unshrinking, persevering spirit; their 
 greatest leaders now (as in former years) bsing 
 all of -one stamp, revengeful and passionate in 
 war, and if not successful on the first onset, like
 
 304 NATIVE TIMIDITY. 
 
 the lion, making rarely a second spring. The 
 Falatahs, who claim all the bravery to them- 
 selves, are to a man dastardly poltroons, and have 
 met with their astonishing good fortune, not by 
 open, manly courage, but by treachery, deceit, 
 and cunning by imposing on the superstitious 
 fears of the simple aborigines, and by artfully 
 insinuating themselves into the good opinion of 
 the very people it was their secret intention to 
 enslave, and, like the adder in the fable, watching 
 the opportunity to bite the hand that nourished 
 them. It would not be well to say that they have 
 greater positive courage than the negro, but 
 they have less pusillanimity and more shrewd- 
 ness than he. Not all the glowing pleasures 
 after death, which the religion of the Falatah 
 teaches him to expect not the unshaken belief 
 in predestination that prompts the gloomy and 
 enthusiastic Turk to rush headlong upon his fate 
 not the promised enjoyment for ever of the se- 
 venty-two lovely houris awarded to those that fall 
 in the cause of Mohammed not even the fearful 
 and tremendous war-cry of his countrymen, 
 " Allah Ackbar ! " (God is victorious !) has the
 
 THE ARTS. 305 
 
 power of arousing the energies of the Falatah, 
 or inspiring him with ardour and impetuosity in 
 the fight. Securely shielded, as he fancies him- 
 self to be, from the effects of the arrows and 
 spears of his adversary, by wearing thickly- 
 quilted armour, and fortifying himself with Arab 
 charms, the Falatah may indeed exhibit an air 
 of defiance for a time; but if any thing occurs to 
 stagger his faith in the virtue of his aegis, off he 
 scampers, without considering the example he 
 sets his companions, and does not stop till he 
 is far beyond the reach of even imaginary 
 danger ! 
 
 THE ARTS, &C. 
 
 Of the imitative arts, painting and sculpture, 
 the Falatah understands absolutely nothing; in- 
 deed, the former art is almost entirely unknown 
 in the interior, whilst the latter, however, is 
 practised amongst the natives of Jannah, Yariba, 
 and Borghoo, who have a natural fondness for 
 it, and produce various specimens that evince 
 considerable skill in the artist. Figures of men, 
 as well as those of snakes, crocodiles, &c. are
 
 306 THE ARTS. 
 
 carved in bas-relief by them; and, contrasting the 
 rudeness of the instruments used, with the fine- 
 ness and delicacy of some of the indentions, it 
 excites one's admiration for their persevering in- 
 dustry and ingenious labours. The people are 
 acquainted with many of the useful arts, such as 
 working in iron, tanning, dyeing, &c. The smiths 
 are surprisingly skilful in their profession, and 
 fuse and fashion iron into all manner of forms 
 with extraordinary ease and dispatch. Hun- 
 dreds of these useful artizans are scattered over 
 the country, and Nyffe in particular swarms 
 with them; they are universally respected, and 
 treated with the utmost deference by every rank. 
 The variety of the dyes of the Africans has 
 been often remarked, and the richness and beauty 
 which they maintain, notwithstanding constant 
 exposure to the elements, elicit the admiration 
 of even Europeans. The exquisite colour of na- 
 tive cottons, in particular, is unrivalled ; and 
 the art of dyeing is carried to as great a height 
 of perfection in many countries in the interior 
 as in the more enlightened portions of the 
 world. The art of tanning is also carried on
 
 SEASONS IN AFRICA. 307 
 
 with equal spirit and success ; and the leather 
 dressed by the natives is equal, if not superior, to 
 that manufactured in England. Saddlers, shoe- 
 makers, and tailors, are to be met with in most 
 nations in Africa, and for ingenuity in their re- 
 spective trades, yield to few. 
 
 A smithy in Nyffe, &c. is very similar to that 
 which has been described in the celebrated naiv 
 rative of Mr. Park's first journey into the in- 
 terior of Africa. The process of the fusion and 
 fashioning of iron is exceedingly simple; and 
 notwithstanding the very few tools that are 
 used by working smiths, their quickness and in- 
 genuity cannot be excelled, even by a Euro- 
 pean professing the same trade, and who has the 
 advantages afforded' by an acquaintance with all 
 the rules of art. 
 
 DKY AND WET SEASONS, &C. 
 
 The air, especially in the dry season, is op- 
 pressively hot ; and if a mist or haze that some- 
 times hangs between the earth and sky, did not 
 intercept the sun's rays, it would be wholly in- 
 supportable. The African sky seldom displays
 
 308 SEASONS IN AFRICA. 
 
 the clear, rich ether, or the beautiful and eva- 
 nescent touches of the Italian ; but if the appear- 
 ance of the heavens be less lovely to the sight in 
 the former country, by the existence of vapoury 
 clouds in the air, the heat is rendered infinitely 
 more tolerable by the same cause. Towards the 
 latter part of the dry season, and all nature seems 
 parched while withering (except on the margins 
 of rivers), the earth is literally baked as hard 
 as flint, while the birds and beasts, fluttering and 
 panting in the shades, by their cries and moans 
 seem to bewail the absence of rain. But no 
 sooner does the wet season set in, than vegeta- 
 tion suddenly springing up, bursts into being ; a 
 fresh and redundant luxuriance of life breathes 
 and floats around ; the hills and dales are co- 
 vered with a delightful verdure ; the earth, the 
 ail 1 , the sky, seem smiling in joy, and refreshed 
 into gladness and beauty. Every thing looks 
 cheerful and attractive : the horned cattle gam- 
 bol on the plains, and the sheep and goats frisk 
 on the slopes of mountains and hills ; man him- 
 self appears animated with a new existence; 
 pleasure swells in his veins, and dances on his
 
 SEASONS IN AFRICA. 309 
 
 countenance, and he enters cordially into the 
 enjoyment which every province of nature in- 
 vites him to partake in common with itself. 
 This is generally during the intervals of the 
 showers ; it rather floods than rains hi Africa, 
 and continues without intermission for the space 
 of twelve hours, when it suddenly stops, and a 
 cessation of rain for twenty-four hours not un- 
 frequently takes place. 
 
 The sun setting in Africa is a grand and mag- 
 nificent object; he then appears shorn of his 
 beams, and may be gazed at by the naked eye 
 for any length of time, without our experiencing 
 a single painful sensation in that delicate organ. 
 When he sinks below the horizon, he looks like 
 a huge sphere of burning gold, and the hills (if 
 any) towards the west seem as if on fire by the 
 vivid reflection of his rays. Twilight is of short 
 duration, and if the moon does not shine, dark- 
 ness soon covers the earth like a veil. In no 
 other country have I seen such cloudless, lovely 
 nights, or so mildly beautiful a moon. I do not 
 wonder that the natives sometimes adore her ;
 
 310 SEASONS IN AFRICA. 
 
 she possesses a soothing, softening influence, of 
 which they themselves are susceptible; and there 
 is certainly something more captivating in the 
 delightful appearance of so resplendent an orb, 
 sailing gracefully through the purple vault of 
 heaven, than in the figures of disgusting reptiles 
 and monsters which the natives so often worship. 
 
 END OF VOL. I. 
 
 I V.. N!CIJOl,S AND SON, 
 25, Parliament Street.
 
 RECORDS 
 
 OF 
 
 CAPTAIN CLAPPERTON'S 
 
 LAST EXPEDITION 
 
 TO 
 
 AFRICA: 
 
 BY RICHARD LANDER, 
 
 HIS FAITHFUL ATTENDANT, AND THE ONLY SURVIVING 
 MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION : 
 
 WITH THE 
 SUBSEQUENT ADVENTURES OF THE AUTHOR. 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 HENRY COLBURN AND RICHARD BENTLEY, 
 
 NEW BURLINGTON STREET. 
 
 1830.
 
 J. B. NICHOLS AND SON, 
 25, Parliament Street, London.
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE SECOND VOLUME. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Page 
 Character of the Africans in general Their social 
 
 qualities considered Succinct remarks on the Na- 
 tural History of the Interior Yam Yams Arabs 
 Falatahs War of the latter people with Bornou 
 and Fundah ...... 1 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 The Author resumes his Narrative African huts 
 Recreations and evening amusements of his Master 
 and himself Illness of Captain Clapperton His 
 sufferings Perfect resignation under them His 
 death Burial Character . . . . 57 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Author's severe indisposition and distress of 
 mind Conduct of Bello Departure from Socca- 
 too The Author almost perishes of thirst in the 
 a 2
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 " Goober Bush," where he is deserted by the 
 
 faithless Pasko The King of Jacoba Horrid death 
 of that monarch's slaves The Author's arrival at 
 Kano 82 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Pasko The Author pays his respects to the Gover- 
 nor, and leaves Kano Chooses, near Bebajie, the 
 road to Fundah Almena mountain The Author 
 is seen and recognised by horsemen from Zeg Zeg 
 Arrives amongst the people of Bowchee Their 
 manners A girl's lamentation on being sold by her 
 mother The Author enters the immense plain of 
 Cuttup Anecdote of an old woman . . 100 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The Author overtaken at Dunrora by four armed 
 horsemen from Zeg Zeg, who force him to accom- 
 pany them back to Zaria His reflections Arrives 
 in Zaria Treatment of the King and his son to- 
 wards the Author His entrance into Coulfo in 
 Nyffe Revisits Wow Wow The noted widow 
 Zuma 128 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 The Author becoming entangled, whilst crossing a 
 river, in the stirrups of his horse's saddle, is thrown
 
 CONTENTS. V 
 
 Page 
 from its back, and narrowly escapes drowning 
 
 Arrival at Khiama Eccentric conduct of the Prince 
 of that State Anecdote of his messenger Pasko's 
 thieving propensities turned to account The Au- 
 thor enters Katunga, the capital of Yariba His 
 reception by Mansolah, its monarch Song of five 
 hundred of his Wives Fetish-hut 176 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Ebo the celebrated fat Eunuch The Yaribeans not 
 very delicate in the choice of what they eat Dress 
 of the different people in the interior Treatment 
 of invalids Tattoo marks of different nations The 
 Author is urged to become Son-in-law to Manso- 
 lah, Generalissimo of his forces, and Prime Minis- 
 ter of State Names of Towns Departure from 
 Katunga Anecdote of a gang of robbers Mungo 
 Park's son Arrival at Badagry . . . 201 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 Novel method adopted by Europeans for conveying 
 slaves on board their vessels Conduct of the Por- 
 tuguese Merchants, resident at Badagry, towards 
 the Author The White Negroes Manners and 
 ceremonies of the Badagrians Horrid indifference 
 with respect to the Shedding of Human Blood 
 Murder of two of the King's wives by moonlight 238
 
 VI CONTENTS 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 Page 
 
 The Fetish-huts and tree at Badagry Owing to the 
 
 insinuations of the Portuguese the Author is ex- 
 amined by the Priests of the Fetish, and compelled 
 to swallow bitter water, being the only European 
 that ever underwent that dreadful ordeal His 
 thoughts when informed of the circumstance As- 
 tonishing preservation from an expected cruel death 
 Sacrifices of human beings under the branches 
 of the Fetish-tree, exceeding in atrocity any thing 
 heard of before Song of the inhabitants, with 
 Adolee at their head, on the occasion The Author, 
 on his visit to a Portuguese pirate, discovers the 
 sacred Fetish-tree of the Badagrians growing in 
 the heart of the forest, and covered with dismem- 
 bered corpses of human beings The Portuguese 252 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Captain Laing, of the Brig Maria, of London, hearing 
 that an Englishman was at Badagry, comes from 
 Whydah to fetch the Author His reflections on 
 leaving Badagry, and on reaching the British ves- 
 sel The Maria sails for Cape Coast, where the 
 Author lands, and is taken on board the Esk sloop 
 of war, which Vessel sails for England The Tur- 
 ties Arrival in England, &c. . . . 276
 
 WANDERINGS 
 
 AFRICA. 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Character of the Africans in general Their social qualities con- 
 sidered Succinct remarks on the Natural History of the Inte- 
 rior Yam Yams Arabs Falatahs War of the latter people 
 with Bornou and Fundah. 
 
 THE character Plutarch gives of the Atheni- 
 ans is strictly applicable to the people of Africa 
 in general, in times of peace : " They are 
 easily provoked to anger, and as easily induced 
 to resume sentiments of benevolence and com- 
 passion." This we found to be true in num- 
 berless instances ; particularly amongst the gen- 
 tler sex, whose apprehensions are quicker and 
 
 VOL. II. B
 
 2 AFRICAN CHARACTER. 
 
 more lively, and whose finer feelings more 
 easily excited than those of their male compa- 
 nions. We not unfrequently observed persons 
 quarrelling and fighting in one moment, with 
 all the bitterness of angry and elevated passions, 
 and in the next as gentle as lambs, and the most 
 cordial friends in the universe ; forgetting their 
 previous noisy dispute in the performance of re- 
 ciprocal acts of kindness and good nature. 
 
 The African, ceaselessly engaged in sleeping, 
 warfare, drinking, &c. takes little, if any, de- 
 light in his own family circle. His is no domes- 
 tic life : his children never prattle round his 
 knee ; his eye never glistens with tenderness on 
 receiving their innocent caresses ; his numerous 
 wives, who are valued as a distinct and inferior 
 order of beings, weaken his affections and blunt 
 his feelings ; and he regards them with looks of 
 indifference or contempt. With him, 
 
 "All claims that bind and sweeten life," 
 
 are, indeed, unknown ; and, provided his wants 
 be supplied, unless aroused from his stupor by 
 any particular event, he journeys calmly on, 
 with the most listless indifference imaginable,
 
 STORY TELLING. 3 
 
 scarcely deigning to bestow a solitary thought 
 either on his country, or his wives and children. 
 He holds the dead, however, in the greatest vene- 
 ration, hardly venturing to let the name of a de- 
 ceased relative escape his lips; and if, when en- 
 gaged in contentious bickerings, his opponent 
 alludes to them in a disrespectful manner, he 
 interrupts him with this energetic expression : 
 " Curse me ; slay me, if thou wilt ; but do not 
 rake up the ashes of the dead. Let them rest 
 in peace, or thou thyself shalt follow them to 
 the grave." 
 
 The natives are passionately fond of story- 
 telling, and listen for hours after the setting of 
 the sun, with a gravity truly comic, to the reci- 
 tal of tales of the most wonderful and incredible 
 description, in which they repose implicit belief. 
 The following was told me with an air of great 
 solemnity, and with a full conviction of its truth, 
 by a native of Goober : 
 
 " Doncasson, Prince of that province, ordered 
 a number of men to build houses at the distance 
 of three miles from Coonia, the capital, which 
 they undertook to finish within a given number 
 
 B2
 
 4 STORY TELLING. 
 
 of days. The workmen, contrary to their ex- 
 pectation, could find no water in the neighbour- 
 hood of the spot, nor, indeed, at a shorter dis- 
 tance than Coonia ; and having no vessels large 
 enough to convey a sufficient quantity within 
 the time specified, they were put to their wits' 
 end, in what manner to act, fearing that in the 
 event of the non-fulfilment of their engagement 
 a dreadful punishment would await them. In 
 this dilemma they applied for advice to a female 
 fortune-teller, residing in the city, who, having 
 accompanied them to the scite of the intended 
 hamlet, ordered an immense heap of earth, suf- 
 ficient for the walls of the buildings, to be thrown 
 up ; when the old woman immediately supplied 
 them with the water required, in the same 
 manner as Gulliver extinguished the dreadful 
 fire that threatened to destroy the capital of the 
 kingdom of Lilliput, on his visit to that coun- 
 try; and thus the buildings of Doncasson were 
 finished a week earlier than was expected." 
 
 The persons of the Africans, of both sexes, 
 are perfectly well-formed. I never saw an indi- 
 vidual in the whole country with a hump on his
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 3 
 
 back, or any other species of deformity whatever ; 
 and this will appear the more strange when it 
 is considered that no people in the world pay 
 less attention to their offspring in their tender 
 years. We frequently saw individuals with 
 only one hand, the other having been ampu- 
 tated as a punishment ; but never met with a 
 person that had lost a leg. The people used to 
 deride us when we affirmed that some of our 
 countrymen were furnished with wooden legs in 
 lieu of natural ones, believing that a person 
 could never survive the loss of so important a 
 member. 
 
 NATURAL HISTORY. 
 
 Of the natural history of the regions we traversed 
 I can say but little, my very limited and imper- 
 fect acquaintance with that interesting study, 
 in either of its branches, incapacitating me from 
 giving any thing like a description of the vari- 
 ous productions of the soil, or of the numerous 
 animals that inhabit the woods or the rivers. 
 
 Magnificent forests of tall trees are scattered 
 over the face of the country from Badagry to 
 Soccatoo, and afford, in their gloomy solitudes,
 
 6 REPTILES. 
 
 shelter to numerous species of reptiles and wild 
 beasts. The palm, the cocoa, the tamarind, the 
 banana, the fig, the date (a species of palm), the 
 butter, and other trees, are indigenous ; and se- 
 veral varieties of plum grow in woods of Yariba, 
 as well as a tree bearing a fruit similar in size 
 and appearance to our "love apple," and in fla- 
 vour, to the cashew apple of the West Indies. 
 Stunted orange, lemon, and lime trees, bearing 
 fruit of inferior quality, may also be found 
 growing wild in that region, but are made 
 little use of by the natives, who know not how 
 to improve them ; the people have likewise 
 water-melons, guayavas, papaws, &c. &c. The 
 cotton plant, indigo, rice, wheat, yams, maize, 
 Guinea corn, dourra, six or seven other varie- 
 ties of corn, the plantain, sweet potatoes, onions, 
 and cassada, are cultivated to a great extent in 
 the interior countries. 
 
 Reptiles are exceedingly numerous, but the 
 bites of few of them, as far as I was able to 
 learn, are attended with fatal effects. We fre- 
 quently saw in the woods of Borghoo and Houssa 
 a large species of snake swinging in the sun-
 
 REPTILES. 7 
 
 beams, with its tail encircling the branch of a 
 tree ; but on the approach of a human creature, 
 it would attain the summit in an instant, and 
 look from its elevation on the head of the person 
 beneath. The boa constrictor we rarely met 
 with alive; on my journey from Kano, how- 
 ever, I espied one of them, of about the bigness 
 of a man's thigh, coiled up like a rope, and par- 
 tially concealed by fallen branches and leaves of 
 trees. I watched the monster attentively for a 
 moment or two, being within a few yards of the 
 spot : but at length observing me, it attempted 
 to hide itself, when I immediately discharged my 
 piece at its head, and in all probability wounded 
 the animal, although it eluded a rigorous search 
 that I caused to be made after it. The beau- 
 tiful reptile called at the Cape of Good Hope 
 the puff-adder, is unknown in the central parts 
 of the continent; but a slender green snake, 
 elegantly variegated with black, which is some- 
 times met with in the former country, is seen in 
 almost every inhabited place of the latter. I have 
 frequently observed, on awaking in the morn- 
 ing, one or more of these reptiles, gliding from
 
 8 REPTILES, &C. 
 
 underneath the mat on which I had beensleeping, 
 towards the door of the hut, and so making their 
 escape. The bite is speedily mortal. Another 
 snake, about two feet long, of a greyish colour, 
 whose bite is also fatal, is found in many parts 
 of the country. Pasko snatched up an adder of 
 this description one day, thinking it to be a bit 
 of decayed wood, covered with lichen, which it 
 greatly resembles ; but feeling the reptile twist- 
 ing itself round his fingers, he cast it from him 
 before it had power to bite, and immediately 
 fainted from excess of fear. The natives hold 
 all poisonous snakes in the greatest dread, and 
 can never be induced to touch them, even after 
 they are destroyed, believing that, although there 
 be no cut on the hand by which it could so enter, 
 their venom yet attaches itself to the skin, and 
 insinuates itself into the blood of the person 
 that seizes it. 
 
 Of insects the most formidable are the ant, the 
 locust, the mosquito, the centipede (a peculiarly 
 hideous animal), and the scorpion. The bites of 
 the two latter are attended with danger; but 
 although they frequently visited us in our tents
 
 WILD ANIMALS. 
 
 and huts, we never had the ill-fortune to suffer 
 from their attacks. 
 
 Wild animals, in incredible numbers, abound 
 in the woods ; amongst which are the lion, ele- 
 phant, tiger, tiger-cat, panther, leopard, hyena, 
 wolf, and hog. The camel is found in a wild 
 state in Houssa ; and that beautiful animal the 
 giraffe, or cameleopard, also inhabits the forests 
 of the same country. I saw three of them in my 
 travels between Zaria, Kano, and Soccatoo; they 
 are excessively timid, and are rarely, if ever, 
 caught by the natives. Although the tremen- 
 dous roar of the lion, which made the woods 
 tremble, could be heard by us when travelling 
 at all hours of the night; yet I never saw but two 
 of those ferocious animals, a male and female; 
 which incident has already been mentioned in a 
 preceding part of my narrative. 
 
 The elephant is annually becoming more shy 
 and scarce in the interior. The country people 
 say that they have been taught the value of 
 their tusks, and therefore studiously avoid, as 
 often as possible, the haunts of man, by pene- 
 
 JB5
 
 10 THE ELEPHANT. 
 
 trating more deeply into the bosom of their an- 
 cient forests. Be this as it may, they are not so 
 frequently seen in Houssa as formerly, and less 
 often slain; and although numerous traces of them 
 were perceptible in the woods, we never met 
 with a considerable number at one time in all 
 our journeyings. Elephants are more nume- 
 rous in the deep woods on the borders of the 
 Quorra, near the island of Boussa, than in any 
 other place whatever. This may be accounted 
 for by the king of that country having inter- 
 dicted his subjects, under dreadful penalties, 
 from slaying them. The fetish of the same mo- 
 narch is a white elephant ; and it is believed 
 that he can assume the form of that animal 
 whenever inclination or necessity may prompt 
 him to disguise himself. Hence elephants are 
 held in considerable veneration by all ranks in 
 Boussa ; and the figure of a white one is wor- 
 shipped as a god in that kingdom. 
 
 I have often heard it remarked, that the ele- 
 phant is as sluggish in his motions as he is un- 
 wieldly in appearance; but this is by no means 
 the case. In proportion to his size, he is as
 
 THE HYENA. II 
 
 fleet as other animals, which I learnt to my cost 
 in South Africa ; for on going out shooting one 
 day I disturbed a huge elephant, which, unob- 
 served by me, was standing at a very short dis- 
 tance. The animal immediately pursued me; 
 but it being a few seconds before he could dis- 
 entangle his legs from the thick underwood that 
 grew on the spot, I was considerably in advance 
 before he got into open gronnd. The beast ran 
 much faster than I, and would have overtaken 
 me in a few minutes, if a dog that was with me 
 had not made an alarm which drew our party 
 out of their encampment, fixed at no great dis- 
 tance, who came to my assistance, and drove the 
 animal back. As it was, I was almost frightened 
 to death, and resolved never again to come to 
 such close quarters with an elephant, bulky as 
 he might be ; since that quality does not prevent 
 him from using his gigantic legs with elegance 
 and dispatch. 
 
 Of all untamed animals in Central Africa, 
 hyenas are most to be dreaded ; they are asto- 
 nishingly bold and ferocious, and commit great 
 depredations on the domestic animals of the
 
 12 DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 
 
 natives. The howl of these creatures is truly ter- 
 rific, and their demoniacal laugh is enough to 
 appal the stoutest heart; hundreds of them 
 used to pass and repass our tent in the woods by 
 night, our fires alone preventing them from 
 commencing an attack on our persons. The 
 wild hog also does a great deal of mischief; they 
 visit the plantations in immense droves, and 
 destroy the corn, or whatever else may be grow- 
 ing on them. They inhabit the woods of 
 Houssa, but more particularly those in the vici- 
 nity of Soccatoo, where they are found in consi- 
 derable numbers ; but no pains are taken by the 
 inhabitants of that city to exterminate them ; in 
 fact the Mohammedan portion of the commu- 
 nity would rather embrace a leper than touch 
 the skin of one of these abhorred animals ; and 
 there cannot be a greater affront than to give a 
 Falatah the epithet of " pork-eater." 
 
 The domestic animals are the camel, horse, ass, 
 ox, pig, goat, sheep, &c. ; turkeys, ducks (the 
 Muscovy kind), geese, the Guinea and common 
 fowl, are also tamed. The turkey is no whercfr- 
 to be met with after leaving Yariba ; nor is the
 
 DOMESTIC ANIMALS. 13 
 
 camel seen in that or any other country between 
 it and the coast. Although the pig is de- 
 tested by the Falatahs, the Mohammedan negro 
 feasts on its flesh without the slightest reluc- 
 tance, as do likewise the Pagan natives indis- 
 criminately. The large species of ox with the 
 hump, was first brought into Houssa, Nyffe, 
 Borghoo, Yariba, Outturn Cora, Cubbe, &c. by 
 the Falatahs, the native breed being diminutive, 
 and without the hump. The beef of both kinds 
 is always dry, and tough as leather; and as by 
 reason of the heat it never gets perfectly cool, 
 or solid, it is very indifferent eating. The 
 sweetest and most palatable animal food, is the 
 flesh of kids, which is publicly sold in the 
 markets at a reasonable rate. 
 
 The native horse of the countries above enu- 
 merated, is particularly small and shaggy ; it is 
 generally of a mouse colour, with hair as soft and 
 fine as silk ; and, like the ass, has a black streak 
 placed* transversely on the back and shoulders. 
 The finest horses are imported from Bornou, 
 which country supplies every other in the interior 
 with that useful animal ; and these are handsome,
 
 14 THE FEATHERED TRIBE. 
 
 powerful beasts. The ass is common in the inte- 
 rior, and for size, speed, strength, and beauty, 
 surpasses any animal of its kind I have ever 
 seen, not even excepting the most approved of 
 the famous Spanish breed. They are highly 
 valued by the natives, and in some instances are 
 preferred to the horse. Sheep and goals are 
 plentiful, but are of very inferior description ; 
 none of the former are to be found with the 
 enormous tail of fat which so peculiarly distin- 
 guishes that animal at the Cape ; but, as in all 
 ropical countries, they have hair instead of 
 wool. Dogs and asses are eaten in Yariba, and 
 their flesh is much sought after. 
 
 Of the feathered tribe, there are various 
 species, of rich and brilliant plumage. Parrots, 
 Guinea fowls in a wild state, and a variety of 
 doves, are seen in the branches of the beautiful 
 trees, and by their chattering and cooing, im- 
 part a grateful animation to the spot near which 
 they may happen to take up their abode. The 
 golden pigeon is sometimes to be seen ; its 
 ground colour is a rich and vivid blue, and the 
 feathers on the breast and under the wings are
 
 THE PELICAN. 15 
 
 tinged with a glittering yellow, whence it takes 
 its name. The grey pelican abounds on the 
 margins of rivers and streams in Houssa ; it is 
 much less than the white pelican, and the beak 
 in particular is considerably smaller than that of 
 the latter species. The former are found in 
 immense numbers, more especially at a place 
 called Zulamee, and build their nests close to 
 the water's edge, near to which they always stand 
 to feed their young. The eggs are esteemed as 
 a delicacy by the natives ; but the flesh of the 
 bird is of so offensive a flavour that it can- 
 not be eaten. It is somewhat singular that the 
 opinion of the pelican feeding its young with 
 its blood is as general in Houssa as it is amongst 
 the lower class of people in Europe ; and to this 
 belief I must acknowledge myself a proselyte ! 
 I have stood for a long while together by the 
 side of this stupid animal, watching its motions, 
 and seeing it bending its head for its offspring 
 to extract their nourishment. The young ones 
 thrust their beaks into a small round aperttn'e 
 at the lower part of the back of the neck of 
 their parent, and they swallow the substance
 
 16 THE PELICAN. 
 
 that flows freely through. If it be not blood 
 that issues from the old bird, it is a red liquid 
 so closely resembling it, that the difference can- 
 not be perceived. I took a sketch of a pelican 
 feeding its young in this manner, in Houssa, 
 which is now in my possession ; and I should 
 not have said so much on the subject, if my as- 
 sertions had not been questioned by several of 
 my countrymen.
 
 THE HARVEST BIRD. CROCODILES. 17 
 
 I met with few of the species of birds to be 
 found in Southern Africa, in the more central 
 parts. A rook having a white ring round its 
 throat, is the same in both regions, as is also a 
 small bird called in the former country finyfink, 
 and in the latter the " harvest-bird." Its fea- 
 thers are fine, soft, and silky ; but retain their 
 splendid colour only whilst the corn is in the 
 ground, changing its plumage to a russet brown 
 as soon as the grain is fairly housed, which is 
 just about the period that its young are able to 
 take wing. There are two varieties of this 
 beautiful bird, the colours of the one being 
 yellow and black, and those of the other a 
 bright scarlet, or red and black. 
 
 The rivers swarm with fish, which, generally 
 speaking, are not very delicious eating ; and the 
 consumption of them is confined chiefly to the 
 lower orders of the community. Crocodiles in 
 incredible numbers infest the rivers and streams 
 from Badagry to Soccatoo, and are held in con- 
 siderable dread. I never saw any of these am- 
 phibious monsters of such exceeding length and 
 enormous dimensions as I have heard spoken of;
 
 18 CROCODILES. 
 
 the largest I saw measuring no more than from 
 fourteen to eighteen feet in length, and of pro- 
 portionate bulk. They sometimes attack the hu- 
 man species ; but such instances of their ferocity 
 are not so often displayed as the natives would 
 wish strangers to believe, for, being fond of the 
 terrible, they magnify the most trifling incident 
 in the world to one of excessive horror. The 
 eggs of the crocodiles are eaten by the people, 
 and greatly esteemed ; they are certainly pre- 
 ferable to their hen's eggs, which are rarely 
 more than half hatched, and when dressed look 
 and taste like water and curdled milk. They 
 are also superior in flavour to the eggs of the 
 penguin, and although larger, closely resemble 
 them in appearance when boiled, the yolk in 
 both being of a pale yellow, and the more liquid 
 part of a delicate blue. The former are used 
 as charms by the natives of Yariba and Borghoo, 
 not only to deter crocodiles from visiting their 
 villages, but likewise to avert the " Evil Eye."
 
 YAM YAMS. 19 
 
 THE YAM YAM. 
 
 The Yam Yam, in his most conspicuous traits, 
 is alike different from the Falatah, the Arab, 
 and him that claims a Bornou descent, resem- 
 bling, as nearly as possible, the Caffre of the 
 southern interior. The same open, manly coun- 
 tenance the same jetty blackness of skin the 
 same noble but restless eye the same advanta- 
 geous stature, and athletic, powerful form, are 
 observable in both savages ; and they have a like 
 fondness for pastoral pursuits ; but the Yam 
 Yam differs from the Caffre in being a cannibal. 
 He is accused by every nation of the revolting 
 crime of eating his own species ; yet the united 
 testimony of every nation might be questioned as 
 arising from prejudice or dislike, if he did not 
 confess it himself. A Yam Yam told me at Kano, 
 deliberately and seriously, that his countrymen 
 not only devour the bodies of their enemies 
 taken in battle, but feed on the flesh of their 
 friends and companions, purchased from human 
 shambles !
 
 20 ARABS. 
 
 THE ARABS. 
 
 This ancient and extraordinary people are 
 spread like locusts over the central parts of the 
 continent; and, like locusts also, have left marks 
 of their devastating qualities wherever they have 
 appeared. Both Saracen and Moor fall under 
 the general denomination of Arab ; and although 
 it is said that the former made an irruption and 
 settled in the northern parts as early as the se- 
 venth or eighth century, and the Arabs three or 
 four centuries subsequently to that era, there does 
 not appear at this time to be the least difference 
 in the persons or manners of the whole. At 
 whatever period they crossed the desert, how- 
 ever, it is certain that the wild and fanatical re- 
 ligion of Mohammed accompanied them, and 
 that they preached it with zeal and energy 
 amongst the natives, making innumerable con- 
 verts to the new and strange doctrine. 
 
 The Arabs in Houssa and other parts have, 
 unhappily, lost all trace of their ancient splen- 
 dour, as well as the characteristic features of 
 their countrymen. Like the Jews in Barbary, 
 monopolize not only all the trade, but likewise all
 
 ARABS. 21 
 
 he money concerns of the state and people ; de- 
 generating from a restless, but high-minded and 
 imaginative race, to the vilest and most grovel- 
 ling on the face of the earth. They pluck the 
 ignorant and superstitious aborigines of their 
 substance with impunity, and perpetrate the 
 most revolting crimes for the bare love of gain. 
 Some of them are observed straggling from one 
 end of the African continent to the other, prac- 
 tising, like wandering quacks, the most shame- 
 ful impositions in the different towns and villages 
 through which they may happen to pass. An 
 Arab mallam selling the small balls of tin 
 to a native chief, which has been already men- 
 tioned, is a proof of this ; and hundreds of other 
 examples might be adduced, if necessary, as a 
 further corroboration of the truth of my asser- 
 tion. They also tell fortunes, and by various 
 incantations pretend to discover the authors of 
 robberies or mischief of any kind that may have 
 been effected. Some again remain stationary 
 in cities and in courts, ever ready to take advan- 
 tage of circumstances to cheat and embezzle, 
 and to enrich themselves at the expense of the
 
 22 ARABS. 
 
 prince or the public; and, although they are 
 so numerous in the interior, I do not believe 
 there exists half a dozen honest men amongst 
 them. Unacquainted with the brilliant achieve- 
 ments that shed so rich a lustre over his earlier 
 history, the Arab of the internal districts of 
 Africa ceases to retain the politeness, the gal- 
 lantry, the lofty enthusiasm, and the love for the 
 fine arts, which distinguished his ancestors under 
 the Califs ; and even the desire of collecting and 
 preserving Arabic manuscripts, which for a long 
 time prevailed amongst his countrymen, is now 
 wholly extinct. Intolerant and bigoted in their 
 religious principles, the Arabs lock with in- 
 vincible contempt on all those differing from 
 them in opinion ; and their dislike to Christians 
 in particular is inveterate and deeply-rooted. 
 They did their utmost to prejudice the minds of 
 the rulers as well as the canaille of Africa 
 against us, by propagating the most unfavour- 
 able rumours of our character and our motives ; 
 and partially succeeded in convincing them 
 that we were either spies or robbers ; insomuch 
 that the term " Christian " became in disrepute
 
 ARABS. 23 
 
 with a large portion of all ranks, and a watch- 
 word for reproaches and indignities of every de- 
 scription. Jealous and malevolent, and fearful 
 that through our means the great fabric of im- 
 posture they had reared with so much facility 
 on the basis of superstition would be over- 
 thrown, as well as their lucrative trade with the 
 natives ruined, they watched all our actions with 
 distrust and alarm ; and although they covered 
 their faces with smiles on visiting us, or on ac- 
 costing us in the streets, those looks of kindness 
 were put on only to lull us into a security, and 
 to impress us with the belief that they were our 
 best friends. Their relentless malice at length 
 displayed itself; for by repeatedly throwing out 
 indirect insinuations on our integrity in the 
 hearing of Sultan Bello, these Arabs succeeded 
 in undermining our reputation in the eyes of that 
 monarch ; the consequences of which hastened 
 the death of my valued master, together with 
 the failure of the African Mission for, to the 
 perfidious endeavours of those scoundrels I must 
 attribute our detention in Soccatoo, and all the 
 misfortunes which attended that restraint.
 
 24 
 
 THE FALATAHS. 
 
 The Falatahs, as a people, are perhaps not 
 less extraordinary than the Arabs, whom they 
 formerly resembled in their unsettled, wander- 
 ing habits, and simple manners. No one can 
 tell their origin, from what country they at first 
 emigrated, or to what extent they have scattered 
 themselves. They have overrun the continent 
 from east to west, and are found tending their 
 flocks and herds near the sea, and warring with 
 success in the interior : some of them profess the 
 Mohammedan religion, and some worship stocks 
 and stones; but all speak the same language, and 
 have the same ceremonies and amusements. 
 The negroes who have travelled farthest have 
 declared to me that Falatahs are every where to 
 be met with, seldom mixing with the owners of 
 the soil; but, like the gipsies of Europe, keeping 
 themselves a peculiar and distinct people. 
 
 When I was at Graham's Town, Cape of 
 Good Hope, in 1824, two copper-coloured men, 
 who had incautiously separated themselves from 
 their companions, were found wandering in the
 
 FALATAHS. 25 
 
 woods in the vicinity of the place, and brought 
 into it by a body of Caffres ; they excited at the 
 time a great deal of curiosity, and conjecture 
 was afloat as to what particular nation they could 
 have belonged to. For my part, from what I now 
 know, I have every reason for believing that 
 those very men were Falatahs; and I have a 
 strong persuasion within my own breast that the 
 tribe called in Southern Africa the Red Caffre, 
 and the Falatah of the eastern and central parts, 
 are one and the same people ! I do not affirm 
 that they are actually the same ; I only state it 
 as my decided conviction that they have sprung 
 from one common source. I know nothing of 
 the language of the Red Caffre, but he certainly 
 does not differ from the Falatah in personal ap- 
 pearance; and by all accounts the manners, 
 customs, and ceremonies of both are precisely 
 the same. It would be a truly magnificent under- 
 taking to traverse the unexplored regions between 
 Leetakoo and the (so called) Mountains of the 
 Moon ; and every way worthy the courage and 
 enterprise of an Englishman. I really believe 
 that a person acquainted with the genius and 
 VOL. ii. c
 
 26 FALATAHS. 
 
 usages of the natives, and possessing a persever- 
 ing, undaunted spirit, with an unruffled temper, 
 would find no insurmountable difficulties against 
 accomplishing this object, stupendous as it may 
 at first appear; he might soon and easily accom- 
 modate himself to the manners of the Africans, 
 which are generally mild and simple, and do not 
 differ, in many very essential points, from the 
 Cape to Bornou ; and leaving gradually, and 
 almost imperceptibly, the healthy for the insa- 
 lubrious climates, his frame would be prepared, 
 by such degrees, to encounter the transition. 
 
 At one time the Falatahs never resided in 
 towns, but rambled, with their flocks and herds, 
 from place to place, as pasturage and water 
 might invite their steps. They journeyed in com- 
 panies, having no particular chief, or regular 
 form of government ; and their numbers were at 
 first too contemptible to excite the notice, still 
 less the fears, of the aborigines. Into Houssa 
 they stole insensibly by " ones and twos," and 
 finding that fertile and beautiful country much 
 to their liking, they took up a permanent abode
 
 FALATAHS. 27 
 
 in the woods at no great distance from the spot 
 on which Soccatoo now stands. 
 
 By some secret intelligence or correspondence, 
 hordes of their straggling countrymen soon 
 gathered around them, and they at length built 
 a town in the province of Goober, in Houssa, and 
 chose for themselves a chief, named Danfodio. 
 This man was well versed in the religion of 
 Mohammed, and had derived from the figura- 
 tive language and splendid diction of the Ko- 
 ran, a visionary and romantic turn of mind, 
 which prompted him to undertake novel and 
 daring exploits, not unworthy that great legis- 
 lator whose work he had so intently studied. 
 He began at first to meddle with the polity of 
 the ruling prince of Goober, and adopted the 
 language of dictation to that imbecile monarch, 
 which not being altogether agreeable to the 
 royal mind, the newly built Falatah town was 
 levelled with the dust, and the chief himself, 
 with all his people, driven out of the country 
 Into the woods, wherein they erected another 
 town ; and the Falatahs from the east and west 
 flocked, in considerable numbers, to the stand- 
 c2
 
 28 FALATAHS. 
 
 ard of their countryman. Finding his strength 
 daily and hourly increasing, Danfodio divided 
 his men into bands, or companies, and nomi- 
 nating a captain to each fifty, bade them go 
 forth and conquer in the name of the Prophet, 
 for that God had given them the lands and 
 houses of the natives. He also embraced the 
 opportunity of impressing upon the minds of 
 the leaders, with admirable eloquence, the most 
 prominent features of the religion they professed ; 
 and artfully insinuated the exalted and unfading 
 happiness which those who fell in the cause of 
 Mohammed -would be entitled to in the other 
 world. The captains, filled with ardour and 
 enthusiasm, found little difficulty in the accom- 
 plishment of the task imposed upon them by 
 their crafty leader. With a handful of men the 
 flourishing and important city of Kano was 
 taken and pillaged ; and other parties overran 
 the country and subjugated the people, telling 
 them that the Almighty had given them their 
 possessions for an inheritance ; and that they 
 themselves, with their offspring, must ever after 
 be their slaves and bondsmen. The stupid na-
 
 FALATAHS, 29 
 
 lives were palsied with fear, and understanding 
 little or nothing of the Koran, knew not what 
 to think of the strange doctrines of the Prophet 
 sprung up so suddenly and unexpectedly 
 amongst them. Danfodio's pretensions, there- 
 fore, were seldom disputed; the Houssans 
 have often declared to me that the strength and 
 inclination to " shake the spear ! " were denied 
 them; they had no will of their own, their 
 hands fell powerless by their sides, and they 
 felt as if they had been touched by the finger 
 of a god, or were under the influence of an 
 eastern talisman. Abandoning their wives anil 
 children to the mercy of the invaders, they con- 
 sented to lose their liberty, and fell, like " silly 
 sheep," into the snare that had been laid for 
 them with so little art; not even attempting to 
 struggle with their oppressors ; or if so, making 
 efforts as puny and ineffectual as the flut- 
 tering of a fly in a spider's web. Of all the 
 provinces in Houssa, Goober alone made a show 
 of resistance ; its monarch invested Danfodio in 
 his own town, but being repulsed with loss, 
 made a precipitate retreat to Coonia, the capital
 
 30 FALATAHS. 
 
 of his kingdom. He was pursued thither with 
 slaughter by the Falatahs, who, in their turn, 
 surrounded his town, and succeeded in slaying 
 him in a sally, when the inhabitants, deprived 
 of a leader, immediately capitulated, and bowed 
 their necks to the yoke of the Falatah chieftain. 
 All Houssa was now in subjection ; Bornou was 
 attacked with success; the dynasty of that an- 
 cient kingdom tottered to its foundation, and 
 its monarch trembled on his throne. The Fa- 
 latahs pushed their almost bloodless conquests 
 to Nyffe, and conquering part of that country 
 with the whole of Cubbe and Youri, had the 
 audacity to enter Katunga, the metropolis of 
 Yariba, which being an idolatrous city, was set 
 on fire; but the inhabitants, recovering from 
 the panic into which they had been so sud- 
 denly thrown, rallied, and turning upon the 
 incendiaries, compelled them to make a pre- 
 cipitate, and disgraceful retreat. For some rea- 
 son, which I could never exactly comprehend, 
 Danfodio hastily recalled his victorious sol- 
 diers, and concentrating his power in Houssa, 
 founded the city of Soccatoo, somewhere about
 
 FALATAHS. 31 
 
 the year 1798, which he resolved should be the 
 metropolis of his usurped empire. Here he 
 lived in peace for many years, uniting in his 
 own person, like his celebrated prototype, the 
 sacerdotal and kingly offices; and ruled his 
 people with candour, equity, and justice. As 
 soon as the Arabs were made acquainted with 
 these sudden and important changes, they has- 
 tened, with well-timed speed, to do homage tcv 
 the success of his arms and the wisdom of his. 
 councils; and ingratiated themselves so effec- 
 tually into the favour of the conqueror, by flat- 
 tering his self-love with artful and well-directed 
 encomiums, that he loaded them with benefits, 
 and intreated them to remain for ever in his 
 newly-acquired territory. He also presented 
 them with horned cattle, camels, and slaves, 
 and offered them the most fertile lands in 
 Houssa, if they would consent to teach his sub- 
 jects to read the Koran, and give them an 
 acquaintance with the Arabic language and 
 literature. 
 
 In the midst of these proceedings, the ter- 
 rible Danfodio, at whose name thousands of
 
 32 FALATAHS. 
 
 negroes trembled, became religiously mad, and 
 was often seized with paroxysms of remorse, for 
 having erected a throne, by the shedding of so 
 much Mussulman blood. In his lucid intervals, 
 a melancholy preyed upon his mind, and he 
 delivered his conscience into the hands of the 
 Arab emirs who surrounded him. These hun- 
 gry and insatiable adventurers plied the fana- 
 tical prince unceasingly for more valuable pre- 
 s'ents, as the only means of appeasing the wrath 
 of offended Heaven ; in which object they were 
 eminently successful ; but this failed in alleviating 
 the malady that afflicted Danfodio, and he ex- 
 pired in great anguish in one of his fits about 
 the year 1816, to the infinite joy of his con- 
 quered subjects, and the sincere regret of the 
 interested Arabs, and the aspiring Falatahs. 
 Amongst all people, however, he bore the re- 
 putation of being one of the most extraordinary 
 men that had ever existed in the interior of 
 Africa ; and his enterprizing spirit, artful stra- 
 tagems, and perfect acquaintance with the Afri- 
 can character, which the whole tenor of his 
 conduct evinces, show that the honor he had
 
 FALATAHS. S3 
 
 acquired was not founded on popular clamour, 
 or national prejudice; but that his mind was 
 greatly superior to those of the semi-barbarians 
 that surrounded him. He had made great and 
 important changes in the laws and government 
 of the people he had subjugated to his sway, 
 and created on the ruins of the most flourishing 
 and beautiful kingdom in the interior, a new 
 dynasty which is likely to become, in time, the 
 most formidable power in the whole continent. 
 
 Mohammed Bello, the present Sultan, and 
 eldest son of Danfodio, ascended the throne, by 
 the unanimous voice of the Falatahs, shortly 
 after his father's decease ; but the government 
 of the conquered territory to the westward of 
 Houssa, was awarded to Mohammed Ben Ab 
 dallah, his cousin. Atego, a younger brother 
 of Bello, attempted to raise a rebellion in fur- 
 therance of his own ambitious projects in oppo- 
 sition to the rightful heir, but being completely 
 defeated in a pitched battle, by the partizans of 
 Bello, was taken prisoner, and liberated after .a 
 year's imprisonment in a common dungeon. He 
 is now on a friendly footing with his brother, 
 c5
 
 34- REVOLT OF THE GOOBERITES. 
 
 but is a contemptible fellow, and appears to 
 have sunk the dignity of the prince in the mean- 
 ness of the man. 
 
 On receiving intelligence of the death of the 
 Sultan of the Falatahs, the people of Goober, 
 and many of those of the other conquered pro- 
 vinces, impatient of the galling yoke which they 
 had been compelled, much against their own 
 inclinations, to bear, rose simultaneously into 
 an open and general revolt, and put to death, 
 indiscriminately, every Falatah that had located 
 himself in their country. Then, forming them- 
 selves into a confederacy, with a variety of leaders 
 at their head, they for a long time waged an ex- 
 terminating war with the successor of Danfodio ; 
 but their movements being unconnected and 
 irregular, and anarchy having the ascendancy 
 in their councils, Bello had reconquered several 
 of the mutinous districts at the period of our 
 arrival, and made a great slaughter of the miser- 
 able inhabitants. The towns whose gates were 
 not instantly opened to their summons, the Fala- 
 tahs surrounded, and intercepting all communi- 
 cation between the people residing in them and
 
 CRUELTIES OF THE FALATAHS. 35 
 
 those of the neighbouring country, prevented 
 any provisions being obtained by the besieged, 
 and in a manner starved them into capitulation. 
 The insurgents had made, however, for Africans, 
 a gallant defence ; and well knowing what they 
 had to expect from their sanguinary adversaries, 
 would not surrender till all their domestic ani- 
 mals had been consumed, and they themselves 
 reduced to the extremity of feeding on decoyed 
 vultures, which, next to human flesh, they most 
 cordially abhor. Having obliged them at length 
 to open the gates, the Falatahs rushed in, and 
 pouncing upon the emaciated and unresisting in- 
 habitants, made dreadful havoc of them, putting 
 the old men and councillors to the edge of the 
 sword; thrusting a sharp stake into their bodies, 
 and exhibiting them on the tops of the walls and 
 other conspicuous places, as melancholy trophies 
 of their success, and as a spectacle of horror for 
 their shuddering countrymen to profit by. In 
 this situation the ghastly corpses were exposed, 
 till they had fallen to pieces by the action of the 
 air, or been devoured by birds of prey. The 
 old women, and young people of both sexes, who
 
 36 DONCASSON'S RETALIATION. 
 
 had escaped the general massacre, were driven 
 in triumph to Soccatoo, and retained as slaves 
 by their imperious conquerors. This was the 
 dismal fate of the inhabitants of Coonia, the 
 capital of Goober, the prince of which country, 
 named Doncasson, with other young men, la- 
 boured as a slave till a year or two before Cap- 
 tain Clapperton's first arrival at Soccatoo, (about 
 1822,) when, effecting his escape, with the most 
 determined of his countrymen, he was elected 
 their captain, and being joined by numbers of 
 the disaffected, marched forthwith to the metro- 
 polis of the kingdom of his ancestors, and vi- 
 gorously assaulting it by surprise, the Falatahs, 
 in their turn, after a short and ineffectual resist- 
 ance, surrendered to the infuriated Gooberites. 
 
 The merciless Doncasson retaliated upon the 
 inhabitants the dreadful cruelties which they had 
 so inhumanly inflicted upon his countrymen 
 not long before; in addition to which, the left 
 hand of every young woman in the town, in 
 spite of their cries and tears, was amputated ; 
 after which, being set at liberty, they returned 
 with their mutilated bleeding members, to Soc-
 
 FALATAH REVERSES. 37 
 
 catoo. I saw several of the unfortunate crea- 
 tures in that city who had undergone this 
 barbarous operation ; the hand had been cut oft' 
 at the wrist, and the wound being left to nature 
 for a cure, several of the young women had bled 
 to death on the road. 
 
 Sultan Bello meantime had not been an un- 
 concerned or inactive spectator of the exploit of 
 Doncasson; he immediately assembled a sti'ong 
 force, and made repeated attacks on Coonia, but 
 was repulsed with loss in all his attempts. The 
 belligerents likewise fought two pitched battles, 
 in which the Falatahs were discomfited, and 
 their Sultan wounded by a poisoned arrow ; by 
 this means the Falatahs were no longer consi- 
 dered as invincible by the original natives ; and, 
 foiled in all their manoeuvres, they returned 
 crest-fallen and defeated to Soccatoo. Bello soon 
 recovered from the effects of his wound, but was 
 ever after so excessively afraid of the Towaya/is, 
 as Doncasson's followers were called, that, unless 
 protected by a strong escort, neither he nor his 
 people dared to venture near their territories. 
 
 The Gooberites, at the period of my depar- 
 ture from Soccatoo, had icceived a considerable
 
 38 THE GOOBERITES. 
 
 reinforcement of cavalry from the Sheikh of 
 Bornou, and were daily becoming stronger and 
 more formidable to the Falatahs. Numerous 
 bands of their young men infested the Goober, 
 or Gondamie " bush," through which the road 
 to Kano lay. Here they hid themselves in caves 
 and unfrequented places ; but on receiving in- 
 telligence from their scouts of the approach of a 
 body of the enemy, less powerful than themselves, 
 they would suddenly emerge from their conceal- 
 ment, and springing upon the ill-fated Falatahs, 
 generally contrived to capture or destroy them. 
 Hence the rapidity with which we travelled 
 through the dreaded bush a rapidity that, in 
 one instance, had nearly cost me my life ; and 
 hence the exclamation of " O, the Goober 
 Bush ! " so general amongst the Falatahs. 
 
 <fl -jjr<Yt-*Kl* fftt l/ > 'fo!iJ r )yfff ; 'jjtniO?f '^ 
 WAR WITH BORNOU. 
 
 **4*>tmi-Jt<y>{ OffB/T H 
 
 The war between the Bornouese and Falatahs, 
 which has been already mentioned as raging at 
 the time of our arrival in Kano, and which had 
 caused the Arabs in that city great uneasiness, 
 originated from the following cause : A famine
 
 FALATAH WAR WITH BORNOU. 39 
 
 having impoverished the natives of the former 
 country, and threatened them with utter destruc- 
 tion, the Sheikh sent a number of handsome 
 horses, for which his kingdom is celebrated, as 
 presents to the Governor of Kano, and the chiefs 
 of other Falatah towns. The animals were de- 
 livered to the care of the ambassadors, who 
 depicted to the receivers of them, in lively 
 colours, the destitute condition of the people of 
 Bornou ; and intimated a wish that the Falatahs 
 would relieve their wants, by returning as much 
 corn and other provisions as they could rea- 
 dily spare, without putting themselves to an 
 inconvenience. The custom of giving and re- 
 ceiving presents is of very ancient standing in 
 Africa, and sanctioned by universal adoption. 
 Instead of acceding to the reasonable desires of 
 the Ruler of Bornou, the Chiefs of all the towns, 
 excepting the Governor of Kano, kept indeed 
 the horses, but followed the example of many 
 rude nations of antiquity, as well as that of more 
 modern times * and sent back the ambassadors to 
 
 * Thus the hieroglyphical message of the Scythian Ambassa- 
 dor, who, without making any comment, presented Darius with
 
 40 TREACHERY OF THE FALATAHS. 
 
 their monarch, with bundles of sharp-pointed 
 spears, hinting by these hieroglyphics, that if the 
 Sheikh wanted corn, he was to come and fight 
 for it. The Governor of Kano, however, went 
 even a step beyond this, for he not only retained 
 the horses sent him, but bound the unsuspecting 
 ambassadors hand and foot, and taking them to 
 the market-place, the pitiless Falatah publicly 
 butchered them in cold blood. The consumma- 
 tion of this atrocious act, to which I was myself 
 a spectator, elicited a universal murmur of dis- 
 approbation from the slaves, who form by far the 
 major part of the inhabitants of the city ; and it 
 was generally feared, from their deep but not loud 
 execrations, that they would have risen into open 
 revolt, and revenged the murder of the Bor- 
 nouese, by wreaking their vengeance on the 
 head of the perpetrator of the abominable crime. 
 This effervescence of the public mind, neverthe- 
 
 five arrows, a bird, a frog, and a mouse, is pretty generally 
 known. The Chief of the Narraghanset Indians also made him- 
 self understood, by sending the first settlers of New England a 
 rattlesnake's skin stuffed with arrows. This was answered as intel- 
 ligibly by the settlers returning the same skin filled with powder 
 and bullets.
 
 WAR WITH BORNOU. 41 
 
 Jss, had subsided at the period of my departure 
 for Soccatoo, without producing any of the effects 
 so much dreaded by the free population of 
 Kano ; and the recollection of the revolting and 
 sanguinary action of the Governor was swal- 
 lowed up in other and more important in- 
 cidents. 
 
 As soon as the news of this melancholy ca- 
 tastrophe reached the ears of the Sheikh of Bor- 
 nou, who was then at Kouka, the capital of his 
 empire, he was so violently exasperated, that he 
 swore by the Prophet he would have an imme- 
 diate and ample revenge of the Falatahs for the 
 insult they had offered him ; and for this pur- 
 pose, instantly assembling a numerous and pow- 
 erful army, he hastened to chastise his relentless 
 enemies. The inhabitants of every Falatah town 
 opened their gates to the Sheikh till he reached 
 Murmur, (the place in which Dr. Oudney died 
 and was buried by my lamented master, in the 
 former journey,) where the people who refused to 
 follow the example set them by their country- 
 men ; and prepared to defend themselves to the 
 last extremity. The Bornouese, being unwilling
 
 42 WAR WITH BORNOU. 
 
 to lose so much time as the investment of the 
 town, in a formal manner, would inevitably oc- 
 casion, contrived to ensnare a number of vul- 
 tures, by baiting a crooked bit of iron, sharpened 
 at the extremity, and resembling in shape a 
 small sized English fish-hook, with pieces of 
 putrid beef. These instruments, to which a 
 long string was attached, were eagerly seized 
 by those voracious birds, which by this means 
 were caught with little difficulty. The soldiers 
 of the Sheikh had no sooner obtained as many 
 as they fancied would be necessary, by this 
 stratagem, than they tied pieces of burning 
 cotton to the claws or tails of the vultures, and 
 so set them at liberty. The affrighted birds 
 instantly flew into the town, and alighting on 
 the thatch of the dwellings, of course set them 
 on fire, and a general conflagration was the 
 almost immediate consequence. 
 
 This unlocked for calamity distracted the at- 
 tention of the besieged ; and all flew to arrest 
 the progress of the flames, and to snatch their 
 children from their burning habitations ; whilst 
 the Bornouese, taking advantage of the general
 
 BORNOU REVENGE. 43 
 
 consternation that prevailed in the town, made 
 a sudden rush on the massy gates or doors, 
 (which are made of the bark of the date tree, 
 fastened and strengthened with iron clasps,) and 
 so desperate was the assault, that in less than a 
 minute's time they had entered the place, and 
 were engaged in their work of death and 
 slaughter amongst the inhabitants. 
 
 The infuriated Bornouese pursued their way 
 through the burning streets, amidst the crack- 
 ling huts of the people, and the general devas- 
 tation and ruin respecting neither party, but 
 frequently overwhelming both themselves and 
 their enemies in one common destruction. 
 The male Falatahs were marked out as pecu- 
 liar objects of the vengeance of the victorious 
 troops, one only escaping to tell the dismal tale 
 to his countrymen ; but not yet satiated with 
 blood, the pagan soldiers in the army of the 
 Sheikh captured all the unoffending females 
 who were running about in every direction, 
 with their offspring in their arms, or on their 
 breasts ; and, as with the Gooberites, after am- 
 putating one of their hands, ejected them from 
 their town, snatched their children from their
 
 44 BORNOU VICTORIES. 
 
 embraces, and compelled the poor creatures to 
 wander without protection, and almost dead 
 with grief and intense suffering, to other towns 
 and villages, before arriving at which many 
 of them were released by death. 
 
 Several other Falatah towns were treated in 
 a similar dreadful manner by the Bornouese, 
 who marched hastily towards Kano ; but when 
 about a day's journey from that city, were in- 
 tercepted by the troops of the king of Jacoba, 
 and other allies of Bello, and coming to an en- 
 gagement, the latter were utterly routed by the 
 Sheikh, after a short but sanguinary contest. 
 The Bornouese obtained immense booty by 
 this victory, and on drawing near the walls of 
 Kano, the governor went out to meet them with 
 the joint forces of that city and the province of 
 Zeg Zeg, when the Falatahs again suffered a 
 mortifying defeat, and were obliged to flee back 
 into Kano, the immense wall of which, with its 
 ponderous doors, alone prevented the victo- 
 rious Sheikh, flushed with success, and glutted 
 with revenge, from following them into the 
 town, and annihilating every soul ; in which he
 
 BORNOU RETREAT. 45 
 
 would undoubtedly have been assisted by die 
 murmuring slaves. 
 
 Bello, meantime, was gathering together an 
 immense army to attack the Sheikh, who, being 
 made acquainted with the circumstance, in 
 order more effectually to secure the booty he 
 had already required, having fulfilled to the 
 letter his terrible denunciation on the insolent 
 Falatahs, thought proper to raise the siege of 
 Kano, and return to his own kingdom, laden 
 with provisions and spoil; nor did the Goo- 
 berites leave it in the power of Bello to make 
 reprisals on his triumphant adversaries; so that 
 they were suffered to retreat unmolested to 
 Bornou. 
 
 The old coffee-pot, tent, and drum, which the 
 diappointed Falatahs boasted, amongst other 
 things, they had captured from the Bornouese, 
 and which were publicly exhibited as trophies 
 of a victory they had never won, were owned, 
 the day before I left Soccatoo, by the discom- 
 fited king of Jacoba, as his property, and re- 
 stored to that monarch immediately. The prince 
 informed me that the soldiers of the Sheikh were
 
 46 THE COFFEE-POT. 
 
 so loaded with articles of greater value, that 
 they they did not think it worth while to have 
 the trouble of conveying an old worn-out tent, 
 coffee-pot, &c. to Bornou, and therefore left 
 them behind for the use of their opponents. 
 .viJi. could hardly forbear laughing to see the 
 animosity which the Falatahs evinced against 
 the unconscious coffee-pot, and the dreadful 
 punishments they inflicted upon it, on all occa- 
 sions, as if this inanimate vessel could satisfy 
 their thirst for vengeance on their enemies. 1 
 have heard of boys in England, during the pe- 
 riod of the war with France, desperately lop- 
 ping off the tops of thistles with a walking-stick, 
 and exclaiming, with appropriate gesticulation, 
 " Oh, if you were Frenchmen, we would behead 
 you in this manner ! " The expression of the Fa- 
 latah, with regard to the coffee-pot, was very simi- 
 lar. I have seen him lift his spear in a transport 
 of rage, and while his eyes flashed fire, cry out 
 with dreadful vehemence : " Oh, if you were 
 the Sheikh of Bornou, thus would I pierce your 
 vile body !" accompanying his words and ges- 
 ture by making, with all the fury of excitement 
 and disappointed revenge, a valorous thrust at
 
 WAR WITH FUNDAH. 47 
 
 the ill-used break fast-preparer of the king of 
 Jacoba. When it came to be understood, how- 
 ever, that the coffee-pot did not actually belong 
 to the Bornouese monarch, but was the property 
 of one of their most faithful allies, they were over- 
 whelmed with shame and chagrin ; but hushed 
 up the matter as well as they were able, vowing, 
 that as soon as the Gooberites should give them 
 a short respite, they would be amply revenged 
 on their spirited and successful antagonists. 
 
 WAR WITH FUNDAH. 
 
 Fundah was described to me as being a large 
 and populous city, the capital of a kingdom of 
 the same name, and situated on the banks of the 
 Niger. It is defended by a high wall, except 
 the part facing the sea ; and canoes are conti- 
 nually plying up and down the river, between 
 the town and the bight of Benin. The inha- 
 bitants, having received a quantity of European 
 fire-arms from the coast by this water-convey- 
 ance, no sooner heard of the Falatah conquests, 
 than they perforated the wall of Fundah with in- 
 numerable little holes, barely large enough to
 
 48 BELLO'S MESSAGE. 
 
 admit the barrels of muskets, and light for 
 the soldiers to distinguish objects without. 
 The city never was invested in Danfodio's 
 time, that prince wisely contenting himself 
 with the subjection of Houssa, &c. ; but Bello, 
 his successor, having cast an envious eye on so 
 rich and flourishing a kingdom, had long pre- 
 meditated the conquest of dominions that lay so 
 near and so commodious for the accomplishment 
 of his ambitious views; and attempted to carry 
 his well-matured design into execution a few 
 weeks only after Captain Clapperton had quitted 
 Soccatoo on his former journey (1824). 
 
 The Sultan accordingly, assembling all his 
 forces, marched with a formidable army towards 
 the devoted Fundah ; and halting about a half 
 mile from that city, sent the following singular 
 and characteristic message to the king : 
 
 BELLO'S MESSAGE. 
 
 " Ruler of Fundah ! deliver up your coun- 
 try, your riches, your people, and your slaves, 
 to the beloved of God, Mohammed Bello, king 
 of all the Mussulmans, without reluctance on
 
 KING OF FUNDAH'S ANSWER. 49 
 
 your part ; for if you do not suffer him quietly 
 and peaceably to take possession of your king- 
 dom, in order to propagate the religion of the 
 only true Prophet in it, he will shed your blood, 
 and the blood of your children, and the blood 
 of your household ; not one shall be left alive : 
 while your people he will bind with fetters of 
 iron, to be his slaves and bondsmen for ever 
 God having so spoken by the mouth of Mo- 
 hammed !" 
 
 KING OF FUNDAH'S ANSWER. 
 
 " Sultan of the Falatahs ! The king of 
 Fundah does not know you or your Prophet ; 
 he laughs your boastings to scorn, and despises 
 your impotent threats. Go back to your coun- 
 try, and live in peace with your people ; for if 
 you persist in the foolish attempt to invade 
 his dominions, you will surely fall by his hands ; 
 and instead of his or his subjects being your 
 vassals and bondsmen, your slaves shall be his 
 slaves, and your people his people. Your chiefs 
 and warriors, and mighty men, will he slaughter 
 without mercy, and their blood shall be sprinkled
 
 50 WAR WITH FUNDAH. 
 
 on the walls of his town ; while even your mal- 
 lams and emirs will he thrust through with 
 spears, and cast their bodies into the woods, to 
 be devoured by lions and birds of prey ! " 
 
 This insulting and contemptuous message to 
 the beloved of God, the high-minded Bello, irri- 
 1 tated the choler of the Falatah monarch to so 
 great a degree, that he immediately ordered his 
 cavalry to advance to the very walls of Fundah ; 
 and the conquest of that important city was 
 already effected in his imagination ; the glory 
 and fame he was about to acquire rilled him 
 with pride of heart, and the brightest visions of 
 aggrandizement floated in his fancy. The ca- 
 valry were dressed in flowing white tobes; and 
 as they drew near, the mallams, preceding the 
 horse, read aloud sentences from the Koran, as 
 they were wont to do, till, approaching within a 
 few yards of the fatal wall, they made a simul- 
 taneous pause for the infantry to come up. The 
 mallans then embraced the opportunity of read- 
 ing a few Mohammedan prayers in Arabic, 
 which no one understood or cared about; and 
 the army unconcernedly prepared to make the
 
 WAR WITH FUNDAH. 51 
 
 attack. They were quite easy as to the result 
 of it; and contrary to the solemnity of the 
 Moslam character, laughed, joked, and made 
 merry amongst themselves, playing all manner 
 of antics, just like a fool shaking his bells before 
 the mouth of a cannon about to sweep him to 
 destruction. 
 
 Meanwhile the king of Fundah had not been 
 idle. Anticipating what was actually taking 
 place, he had prepared to meet the shock of his 
 powerful antagonist by every means that could 
 be devised in so pressing an emergency, rallying 
 the drooping spirits of his people, and dissipating 
 the dread that even the sound of the Falatah 
 name could not fail of inspiring. The apertures 
 already mentioned as being formed in the wall, 
 the prince caused to be filled with muskets ; and 
 placing a soldier at each, watched attentively the 
 motions and advances of his enemies. He 
 waited till, as it has already been remarked, the 
 foe, by a strange indifference, began to play the 
 fool almost close to the walls. Another moment 
 and a thousand Falatah jaws were extended to 
 shout the war-cry of their countrymen, " Allah 
 D 2
 
 52 WAR WITH FUNDAH. 
 
 Ackbar ! " previously to making the premedi- 
 tated assault; but before they had uttered the 
 first syllable of the sentence, their mouths were 
 suddenly closed by the salute of a volley of mus- 
 ketry from the fatal wall, which did dreadful 
 execution amongst them. Hardly knowing 
 what to make of this rough and ungracious 
 reception, so entirely different from what they 
 had ever before experienced, they were petrified 
 to the spot, and could neither fly, nor prosecute 
 the assault against the town; but kept their stupid 
 eyes foolishly staring into each other's counte- 
 nance, as if to ask the meaning of what had 
 taken place. 
 
 Whilst the Falatahs were in this state of horrid 
 suspense, and before they could have time to re- 
 cover their presence of mind, another well-directed 
 discharge of fire-arms from the holes in the wall, 
 completed the general consternation, broke the 
 charm that had bound them to the soil, and 
 away scampered the heroic Mohammedans in 
 all directions Bello, the beloved of God, and 
 king of all the Mussulmans ! being the first to 
 set them the example. At that instant the men
 
 BELLO'S DEFEAT. 53 
 
 of Fundah, rushing from the gates, accelerated 
 the flight of the invaders, who were terror- 
 stricken on hearing the war-cry of their pursu- 
 ers, a loud, wild yell, close at their heels ; many 
 of them were killed, and many taken prisoners, 
 not one of them daring to make the shadow of 
 resistance, or even venturing to look behind him. 
 Being loaded with booty, the successful people of 
 Fundah discontinued the carnage, and returned 
 in triumph to their city. 
 
 In this disastrous affair, the Falatahs left 
 five hundred of their best troops dead on the 
 field, besides a vast number of prisoners and 
 wounded ; two hundred of the finest horses in 
 their empire also fell into the hands of the con- 
 querors, so that the threat of the Fundah mo- 
 narch was more than partially accomplished. 
 This, in African warfare, was considered as a 
 sanguinary contest : indeed Bello himself was so 
 severely humbled at the decisive and signal 
 overthrow, that, for a long season afterwards, he 
 was ashamed to show himself to his people. 
 What surprised the Falatahs and their prince 
 was the death of so many mallams, who, being
 
 54 EFFECTS OF THE DEFEAT. 
 
 placed in front of the horsemen, were conse- 
 quently more exposed to the fire of the enemy, 
 and the first victims to the Fundah musketry ; 
 but the greatest wonder of all was the loss of an 
 Arab emir, who received two shots in his breast, 
 and fell dead from the side of the sultan. These 
 men were supposed to have a charmed life, and 
 in all probability believed themselves that they 
 were invulnerable ; but the result proved on 
 what a fragile tenure they had held their pre- 
 tensions to impenetrability, and opened, in some 
 measure, the eyes of the multitude to their abo- 
 minable deceptions. 
 
 The preceding information was first furnished 
 to me by the king of Jacoba ; and afterwards cor- 
 roborated in all its particulars by Mohammed, a 
 Houssa man, and servant of mine, who accom- 
 panied me to Dunrora. He had been himself a 
 spectator of the bloody scene he described ; and 
 fought with the cavalry in the Falatah army, in 
 their memorable exploit before the walls of 
 Fundah. 
 
 Bello, it was asserted, would not risk the 
 dangers of a second campaign, the first having
 
 BELLO'S POLICY. 55 
 
 given him a quietus, which, it was generally be- 
 lieved, would effectually damp his ardour for 
 conquest during his lifetime. The Falatahs, a 
 proud, conceited people, and excessively vain of 
 their national spirit, carefully exclude from their 
 conversation even an allusion to a defeat ; whilst 
 their victories are always made the most of, and 
 repeated a thousand times in every company. 
 
 The great eagerness and anxiety which Bello 
 displayed on Captain Clapperton's former visit 
 to Soccatoo, to maintain a friendly intercourse 
 with the English nation, arose undoubtedly 
 from the expectation, that by the assistance he 
 should derive by that means, he would find little 
 difficulty in overcoming his enemies: a uni- 
 versal despotism which he had attempted, singly 
 and unprotected, to erect over the minds and 
 persons of every Pagan nation in the interior, 
 being a desideratum with him, towards the ac- 
 complishment of which his thoughts and actions 
 were unceasingly directed.
 
 56 
 
 FOOD OF THE NATIVES. 
 
 In Houssa, and, generally speaking, in every 
 country in the interior (except Yariba), the na- 
 tives have but two meals a-day, one before sun- 
 rise, and the other after sun-set. The breakfast 
 of the higher classes consists either of rice and 
 milk, or flour and milk, boiled with honey, and 
 butter manufactured from cow's milk. The 
 supper, which is considered the principal meal, 
 is made of a small quantity of meat stewed in 
 butter, and poured over a bowl of tuah. Poorer 
 people breakfast on flour and water only ; and 
 their evening's repast is composed simply of 
 flour boiled in water till it attains the consist- 
 ence of pudding, seasoned with a sauce made 
 from a certain herb, which to the palate of an 
 European would be most disgusting stuff indeed. 
 With this, however, they are perfectly con- 
 tented; and, indeed they are infinitely happier 
 than the same class of people in Europe.
 
 57 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 The Author resumes his Narrative African huts Recreations 
 and evening amusements of his Master and himself Illness 
 of Captain Clapperton His sufferings Perfect resignation 
 under them His death Burial Character. 
 
 MY master and myself enjoyed tolerable 
 health for some weeks after my arrival in Socca- 
 too, I say tolerable, for perfect health we felt 
 not even a single day in Africa. We variously 
 employed our leisure hours as inclination or 
 circumstances might guide our choice. We 
 each went a-shocting repeatedly: this was Captain 
 Clapperton's favourite amusement, and almost 
 the only out-of-door exercise he was at all eager 
 to cultivate. He frequently went out with his 
 gun at an early hour in the morning, and re- 
 turned not till the evening was pretty far ad- 
 vanced. On all of these occasions the Captain 
 D 5
 
 58 RESIDENCE AT SOCCATOO. 
 
 was dressed in the costume of the country, which 
 consisted, besides other articles, of a large, flow- 
 ing tobe, and a red cap with a white muslin 
 turban : the tobe was confined to his waist by a 
 broad belt, in which a brace of pistols and a 
 short dagger were stuck ; thus accoutred, my 
 master looked more like a mountain robber set- 
 ting out on a predatory excursion, than a British 
 naval officer. His beard, also, which he had 
 permitted quietly to grow, had undisputed pos- 
 session of his chin, and was of a truly patriarchal 
 length, extending even below his breast. This 
 imparted to his countenance a venerable expres- 
 sion, and to his general appearance a degree of 
 dignity, that excited the envy and admiration of 
 the Arabs and Falatahs, who attach great im- 
 portance to large bushy beards, which they all 
 strive to obtain by various means. 
 
 The hut in which we resided was a round 
 building, about thirty yards in circumference, 
 having so small an entrance that we were obliged 
 to stoop ongoing into it, and its appearance 
 very much resembled an immense bee-hive. It
 
 AFRICAN HUTS. 59 
 
 had no window or other aperture whatever, be- 
 sides the door-way already alluded to, so that 
 light was admitted only from that channel ; and 
 the heat of the apartment was from the same 
 cause rendered almost insupportable, being 
 nearly ten degrees higher than in the shade out- 
 side. The hut was inclosed in a square yard, at 
 one end of which the horses were confined, and 
 the camels at another ; and sheds were erected 
 close to it, as sleeping apartments for the ser- 
 vants and slaves. 
 
 For the erection of the walls of their huts, the 
 natives use clay and earth, without hair, or any 
 other substance. The mortar is made into 
 round masses, somewhat larger than a skittle- 
 ball, which being dried and hardened in the 
 sun, are fit for use, and placed in tiers like 
 bricks in England. As soon as the walls are 
 raised to the usual height, the roof is constructed 
 and placed on them ; and the interstices between 
 the tiers of balls and the balls themselves being 
 filled up with moistened clay, the whole surface 
 is plastered over with the same material by the 
 hands of the workman, which, like the tail of the
 
 60 EVENING RECREATIONS. 
 
 beaver, is his only tool, and the hut is then fit to 
 be inhabited. 
 
 Before retiring to rest of an evening, cigars 
 we had brought from England with us were ge- 
 nerally produced ; and we inhaled their grateful 
 fragrance oftentimes for an hour or two. This 
 was the only luxury left us ; our tea and sugar 
 had been consumed long before, and we fared in 
 every respect like the Falatahs themselves. 
 Squatted on mats in our huts, we spent the lin- 
 gering hours in reading aloud, or chatting of 
 our respective homes, and reciting village anec- 
 dotes; and it is really incredible to believe to 
 what a ridiculous consequence the most trivial 
 incident in the world was magnified in these 
 our solitary conversations ; and how often we 
 laughed at jests which had been laughed at a 
 thousand times before. But this can only be 
 felt in an equal degree by persons similarly cir- 
 cumstanced with ourselves ; every other avenue to 
 enjoyment had been effectually blocked up ; nor 
 could we derive any pleasure from the society of 
 the treacherous Arab or interested Falatah. 
 
 Sometimes, although neither of us was gifted
 
 EVENING RECREATIONS. 61 
 
 with a voice of much power or compass, we at- 
 tempted to sing a few English or Scotch tunes ; 
 and sometimes I played others on my bugle- 
 horn. How often have the pleasing strains of 
 " Sweet, sweet Home," resounded through the 
 melancholy streets of Soccatoo ? How often have 
 its inhabitants listened with breathless attention 
 to the music of the white-faced strangers? and 
 observed to each other, as they went away, 
 " Surely those Christians are sending a blessing 
 to their country and friends ! " Any thing that 
 reminded my master of his native Scotland was 
 always heard with interest and emotion. The 
 little poem, " My native Highland home," I have 
 sung scores of times to him, as he has sat with 
 his arms folded on his breast opposite to me in 
 our dwelling ; and notwithstanding his masculine 
 understanding, and boasted strength of nerve, 
 the Captain used to be somewhat moved on lis- 
 tening to the lines : 
 
 " Then gang wi' me to Scotland dear, 
 
 We ne'er again will roam ; 
 And with thy smile, so bonny, cheer 
 My native Highland home !
 
 62 EVENING AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 " For blithsome is the breath of day, 
 
 And sweet 's the bonny broom, 
 And pure the dimpling rills that play 
 Around my Highland home." 
 
 Thus our lonely evenings were spent; and 
 when the time, the place, and the thousand 
 other circumstances, are considered, the pueri- 
 lity of our amusements may surely be pardoned 
 us. Such entertainments could not fail of awa- 
 kening melancholy but pleasing associations 
 within us; and to picture to our imaginations 
 when in the bosom of Africa, and surrounded by 
 wretches who sought our destruction, our own free 
 and happy country, its heathy hills and flow- 
 ery fields, and contrast them with the withering 
 aspect of existing scenes, afforded us many an 
 hour of delight and sorrow, gladness and gloom 
 although filling us with hopes that proved 
 delusive, and expectations that we found, by 
 fatal experience, to be in the highest degree vi- 
 sionary; for, like the beautiful apple said to 
 grow on the borders of the Red Sea, our hopes 
 wore a fair and promising outside, but produced 
 only bitter ashes.
 
 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 63 
 
 For two months our manner of living and 
 occupation were nearly unvaried. The Sheikh 
 of Bornou had entered Houssa, during this pe- 
 riod, with a multitude of men, and was reported 
 to have laid siege to Kano, after the fall of which 
 city he was to march to Soccatoo. This news 
 terrified the inhabitants of the latter place to so 
 great a degree, that every individual of conse- 
 quence in it fled to the more secure and remote 
 town of Magaria ; and we were obliged to fol- 
 low their example; but, events not turning out 
 agreeably to anticipation, we returned to Soc- 
 catoo in about a week or fortnight afterwards. 
 
 On the 12th of March all thoughts of further 
 enjoyment ceased, through the sudden illness of 
 my dear kind master, who was attacked with dy- 
 sentery on that day. He had been almost insensi- 
 bly declining for a week or two previously, but 
 without the slightest symptoms of this frightful 
 malady. From the moment he was first taken 
 ill, Captain Clapperton perspired freely, large 
 drops of sweat continually rolling over every 
 part of his body, which weakened him exceed- 
 ingly; and, being unable to obtain any one, even
 
 64 CLAPPER-TON'S ILLNESS* 
 
 of our own servants, to assist, I was obliged' to 
 wash the clothes, kindle and keep in the fire, 
 and prepare the victuals with my own hands. 
 Owing to the intense heat, my master was fre- 
 quently fanned for hours together : indeed, all 
 my leisure moments were devoted to this tedious 
 occupation ; and I have often held the fan till, 
 from excessive weakness, it has fallen from my 
 grasp. 
 
 Finding that, from increasing debility, I was 
 unable to pay that unremitting attention to the 
 numerous wants of the invalid which his melan- 
 choly state so peculiarly demanded, I sent to 
 mallam Mudey on the 15th, entreating him to 
 lend me a female slave to perform the operation 
 of fanning. On her arrival the girl began her 
 work with alacrity and cheerfulness ; but soon 
 becoming weary of her task, ran away, and never 
 returned to our hut. I was therefore obliged to 
 resume it myself; and, regardless of personal in- 
 convenience and fatigue, strained every nerve, 
 hi order to alleviate, as much as possible, the 
 sufferings occasioned by this painful disorder. 
 My master daily grew weaker, and suffered se-
 
 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 65 
 
 verely from the intolerable heat of the atmo- 
 sphere, the thermometer being, in the coolest 
 place, 107 at twelve at noon, and 109 at three 
 in the afternoon. 
 
 At his own suggestion I made a couch for him 
 outside our dwelling, in the shade, and placed a 
 mat for myself by its side. For five successive 
 days I took him in my arms from his bed to the 
 couch outside, and back again at sunset, after 
 which he was too much debilitated to encounter 
 even so trifling an exertion. He expressed a 
 wish to write once, and but once, during his ill- 
 ness, but before paper and ink could be handed 
 to him, he had fallen back on his bed, completely 
 exhausted by his ineffectual attempt to sit up. 
 
 Fancying by certain suspicious symptoms, 
 that my sick master had inadvertently taken 
 poison, I asked him one day whether he thought 
 that in any of his visits to the Arabs or Tuaricks 
 in the city, any venomous ingredient had been 
 secretly put into the camel's milk they had given 
 him to drink, of which he was particularly fond. 
 He replied, " No, my dear boy, no such thing 
 has been done, I assure you. Do you remem-
 
 66 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 
 
 her," he continued, " that when on a shooting 
 excursion in Magaria, in the early part of Fe- 
 bruary, after walking the whole of the day, ex- 
 posed to the scorching rays of the sun, I was fa- 
 tigued, and for some time lay under the branches 
 of a tree ? The soil on that occasion was soft and 
 wet, and from that hour to the present I have 
 not been free from cold. This has brought on 
 my present disorder, from which, I believe, I 
 shall never recover." 
 
 For twenty days the Captain remained in 
 a low and distressed state, and during that 
 period was gradually but perceptibly declining : 
 his body, from being strong and vigorous, 
 having become exceedingly weak and ema- 
 ciated, and, indeed, little better than a skeleton. 
 There could not be a more truly pitiable ob- 
 ject in the universe than was my poor dear mas- 
 ter, at this time. His days were sorrowfully 
 and ignobly wasting in vexatious indolence ; he 
 himself languishing under the influence of a 
 dreadful disease, in a barbarous region, far, 
 very far removed from his tenderest connections, 
 and beloved country ; the hope of life quenched
 
 CLAPPER-TON'S ILLNESS. 67 
 
 in his bosom ; the great undertaking, on which 
 his whole soul was bent, unaccomplished ; the ac- 
 tive powers of his mind consumed away ; and 
 his body so torn and racked with pain, that he 
 could move neither head, hand, nor foot with- 
 out suppressed groans of anguish ; while the fire 
 and energy that used to kindle in his eye had 
 passed away, and given place to a glossy appear- 
 ance a dull saddening expression of approach- 
 ing dissolution. 
 
 In those dismal moments, Capt. Clapperton 
 derived considerable consolation from the exer- 
 cise of religious duties; and, being unable him- 
 self to hold a book in his hand, I used to read 
 aloud to him daily and hourly some portions of 
 the Sacred Scriptures. At times a gleam of hope, 
 which the impressive and appropriate language 
 of the Psalmist is so admirably calculated to ex- 
 cite, would pierce the thick curtain of melan- 
 choly that enveloped us ; but, like the sun smil- 
 ing through the dense clouds of a winter's day, 
 it shone but faintly; and left us in a state of 
 gloomier darkness than before. 
 
 Abderachman, an Arab from Fezzan, intruded
 
 68 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 
 
 himself one day into our hut, and wished to 
 read some Mohammedan prayers to my master, 
 but was instantly desired to leave the apartment, 
 with a request that he would never enter it 
 again. This individual was the only stranger 
 that visited him during his sickness. 
 
 The Captain's sleep was uniformly short and 
 disturbed, and troubled with frightful dreams, 
 in which he often reproached the Arabs with 
 emphasis and bitterness ; but being myself almost 
 a stranger to the language (Arabic) I could not 
 distinctly understand the tenor of his remarks. 
 
 The unceasing agitation of mind, and exertion 
 of body, which I had myself undergone in my 
 unremitting duties, (never having in a single in- 
 stance slept out of my clothes,) weakened me 
 greatly; and a fever having come on me not 
 long before my master's death, hung upon 
 me for fifteen days, and brought me to the very 
 verge of the grave. Almost at the commence- 
 ment of this illness, there being no other person 
 to assist me in the manner I could wish, I ob- 
 tained permission to take Pasko again into our 
 service. As soon as he entered the hut, the re-
 
 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 69 
 
 pentant old man fell upon his knees before the 
 couch of his sick master, and in treated so pite- 
 ously to be forgiven for the offences of which he 
 had been guilty, that he was desired to rise, 
 with a promise to overlook all that had passed, 
 if his after-conduct should correspond with his 
 apparent penitence. 
 
 By this means, the washing and all the 
 drudgery were taken from my shoulders, which 
 enabled me to devote my whole time and atten- 
 tion to my affectionate master's person ; and, 
 indeed, all my energies were required to bear 
 me up under the pressure that almost bowed 
 me to the dust. I fanned the invalid nearly the 
 whole of the day, and this seemed to cool the 
 burning heat of his body, of which he repeat- 
 edly complained. Almost the whole of his con- 
 versation reverted to his country and friends, 
 although I never heard him regret his having 
 left them ; and he was patient and resigned to 
 the last, a murmur of disappointment never es- 
 caping his lips. 
 
 On the first of April the patient became con- 
 siderably worse; and, although evidently in
 
 70 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 
 
 want of repose, the virulence of his complaint 
 prevented him from enjoying any refreshing 
 slumbers. On the 9th, Maddie, a native of 
 Bornou whom my master had retained in his 
 service, brought him about twelve ounces of 
 green bark, from the butter-tree, recommended 
 to him by an Arab in the city ; and assured us 
 that it would produce the most beneficial effects. 
 Notwithstanding all my remonstrances, a de- 
 coction of it was ordered to be prepared imme- 
 diately, the too-confiding invalid remarking that 
 no one would injure him. Accordingly, Mad- 
 die himself boiled two basons full, the whole of 
 which stuff was swallowed in less than an hour. 
 On the following day he was greatly altered 
 for the worse, as I had foretold he would be, and 
 expressed regret for not having followed my ad- 
 vice. About twelve o'clock at noon, calling me 
 to his bed-side, he said, 
 
 "Richard! I shall shortly be no more; I 
 feel myself dying." Almost choked with grief, 
 I replied, 
 
 " God forbid ! my dear master ; you will 
 live many years to come."
 
 CLAPPER/TON'S DYING INSTRUCTIONS. 71 
 
 " Do not be so much affected, my dear boy, 
 I intreat you," rejoined he ; " you distress me by 
 your emotion ; it is the will of the Almighty ; and 
 therefore cannot be helped. Take care of my jour- 
 nal and papers after my decease ; and when you 
 arrive in London, go immediately to my agents, 
 and send for my uncle, who will accompany you 
 to the Colonial office, and see you deposit them 
 with the Secretary. After my body is laid in 
 the earth, apply to Bello, and borrow money to 
 purchase camels and provisions for crossing the 
 desert to Fezzan in the train of the Arab mer- 
 chants. On your arrival at Mourzuk, should 
 your money be expended, send a messenger to 
 Mr. Warrington, our Consul for Tripoli, and 
 wait till he returns with a remittance. On your 
 reaching the latter place, that gentleman will 
 further advance you what money you may re- 
 quire, and send you to England the first oppor- 
 tunity. Do not lumber yourself with my books, 
 but leave them behind, as well as my barometer 
 and sticks, and indeed every heavy or cumber- 
 some article you can conveniently part with; 
 you may give them to mallam Mudey, who will
 
 72 CLAPPERTON'S DYING INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 preserve them. Remark whatever towns or 
 villages you may pass through, and put on 
 paper any thing remarkable that the chiefs of 
 the different places may say to you." 
 
 I said, as well as my agitation would permit 
 me, " If it be the will of God to take you, Sir, 
 you may confidently rely, as far as circumstances 
 will permit me, on my faithfully performing all 
 that you have desired ; but I hope and believe 
 that the Almighty will yet spare you to see 
 your home and country again." 
 
 " I thought at one time," continued he, " that 
 that would be the case, but I dare not entertain 
 such hopes now ; death is on me, and I shall 
 not be long for this world ; God's will be done." 
 He then took my hand betwixt his, and looking 
 me full in the face, while a tear glistened in his 
 eye, said in a tremulous, melancholy tone : 
 
 " My dear Richard, if you had not been with 
 me I should have died long ago. I can only 
 thank you with my latest breath for your de- 
 votedness and attachment to me ; and if I could 
 live to return to England with you, you should
 
 CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 73 
 
 be placed beyond the reach of want ; the Al- 
 mighty, however, will reward you." 
 
 This pathetic conversation, which occupied 
 almost two hours, greatly exhausted my master, 
 and he fainted several times whilst speaking. 
 The same evening he fell into a slumber, from 
 which he awoke in much perturbation, 'and said 
 that he had heard with peculiar distinctness the 
 tolling of an English funeral bell; but I en- 
 treated him to be composed, observing that sick 
 people frequently fancy things which in reality 
 can have no existence. He shook his head, but 
 said nothing. 
 
 About six o'clock on the morning of the llth 
 April, on my asking him how he did, my master 
 replied in a cheerful tone, that he felt much 
 better ; and requested to be shaved. He had 
 not sufficient strength to lift his head from the 
 pillow ; and after finishing one side of the face 
 I was obliged myself to turn his head in order 
 to get at the other. As soon as he was shaved, 
 he desired me to fetch him a looking-glass 
 which hung on the opposite side of the hut; and 
 on seeing the reflection of his face in it, ob- 
 
 VOL. II. E
 
 %! CLAPPERTON'S ILLNESS. 
 
 served that he looked quite as ill in Bornou on 
 his former journey, and that as he had borne 
 his disorder for so long a time, there was some 
 possibility of his yet recovering. On the fol- 
 lowing day he still fancied himself to be conva- 
 lescent, in which belief I myself agreed, as he 
 was enabled to partake of a little hashed guinea 
 fowl in the course of the afternoon, which he 
 had not done before during the whole of his 
 confinement, having derived his sole sustenance 
 from a little fowl soup and milk and water. 
 
 These flattering anticipations, however, speed- 
 ily ranished, for on the morning of the 13th, 
 being awake, I was greatly alarmed on hearing 
 a peculiar rattling noise issuing from my mas- 
 ter's throat, and his breathing at the same time 
 was loud and difficult. At that moment, on his 
 calling out " Richard ! " in a low, hurried, and 
 singular tone, I was instantly at his side, and 
 was astonished beyond measure on beholding 
 him sitting upright in his bed (not having been 
 able for a long time previously to move a limb), 
 and staring wildly around. Observing him 
 ineffectually struggling to raise himself on his
 
 CLAPPERTON'S DEATH. .7 
 
 feet, I clasped him in ray arms, and whilst I thus 
 held him, could feel his heart palpitating vio- 
 lently. His throes became every moment less 
 vehement, and at last they entirely ceased, inso- 
 much that thinking he had fallen into a slumber, 
 or was overpowered by faintings, I placed his 
 head gently on my left shoulder, gazing for an 
 instant, on his pale and altered features; some 
 indistinct expressions quivered on his lips, and 
 whilst he vainly strove to give them utterance, his 
 heart ceased to vibrate, and his eyes closed for 
 
 ever ! '^nitajiaft 9K>ifT) 
 
 I held the lifeless body in my arms for a short 
 period, overwhelmed with grief; nor could I 
 bring myself to believe that the soul which had 
 animated it with being, a few moments before, 
 had actually quitted it. 
 
 I then unclasped my arms, and held the hand 
 of my dear master in mine; but it was cold 
 and dead, and instead of returning the warmth 
 with which I used to press it, imparted some of 
 its own unearthly chillness to my frame, and 
 fell heavily from my grasp. O God ! what was 
 my distress in that agonizing moment ? Shed- 
 
 E2
 
 76 FUNERAL PREPARATIONS. 
 
 ding floods of tears, I flung myself along the 
 bed of death, and prayed that Heaven would in 
 mercy take my life ! 
 
 * * * # 
 
 The violence of my grief having subsided, 
 Pasko and Mudey, whom my exclamations had 
 brought into the apartment, fetched me water, 
 with which I washed the corpse, and with their 
 assistance, carried it outside the hut, laid it on a 
 clean mat, and wrapped it in a sheet and blanket. 
 After leaving it in this state nearly two hours, 
 I put a large neat mat over the whole, and sent 
 a messenger to make Bello acquainted with the 
 mournful event, as well as to obtain his per- 
 mission to have the body buried after the man- 
 ner of my own country; and also to learn in 
 what particular place the Sultan would wish to 
 have it interred. The man soon returned with 
 a favourable answer to the former part of my 
 request, and about twelve o'clock on the morn- 
 ing of the same day, a person came into 
 the hut, accompanied by four slaves, to dig 
 the grave ; and wished me to follow him with 
 the corpse. Accordingly, saddling my camel,
 
 THE FUNERAL. 77 
 
 the body was placed on the animal's back, 
 and throwing a British flag over it, I requested 
 the men to proceed. Having passed through 
 the dismal streets of Soccatoo, we travelled al- 
 most unobservedly, at a solemn pace, and halted 
 near Jungavie, a small village, built on a rising 
 ground about five miles south-east of the city. 
 The body was then taken from the camel's back, 
 and placed in a shed, whilst the slaves were em- 
 ployed in digging the grave. Their task being 
 speedily accomplished, the corpse was borne to 
 the brink of the pit, and I planted the flag close 
 to it ; then, uncovering my head, and opening 
 a prayer-book, amidst showers of tears, I read 
 the impressive funeral service of the Church of 
 England over the remains of my valued master 
 the English flag waving slowly and mourn- 
 fully over them at the same moment. Not a 
 single soul listened to this peculiarly distressing 
 ceremony ; for the slaves were quarrelling with 
 each other the whole of the time it lasted. 
 
 This being done, the flag was taken away, 
 and the body slowly lowered into the earth ; and 
 I wept bitterly as I gazed, for a last time, on all 
 that remained of my intrepid and beloved master.
 
 78 TRIBUTE TO CLAPPERTON. 
 
 The grave was quickly closed, and I returned to 
 the village, about thirty yards to the eastward of 
 it, and giving the most respectable inhabitants of 
 both sexes a few trifling presents, entreated them 
 to let no one disturb the ashes of the dead ; and 
 also offered them a sum of money to erect a 
 shed over the spot, which having accepted, they 
 promised to do. 
 >f[| JB 
 
 Thus perished, and thus was buried, Captain 
 Hugh Clapperton in the prime of life, and in 
 the strength and vigour of his manhood. No 
 one could be better qualified than he by a fear- 
 less, indomitable spirit, and utter contempt of
 
 TRIBUTE TO CLAPPERTON. 79 
 
 danger and death, to undertake and carry into 
 execution an enterprise of so great importance 
 and difficulty, as the one with which he was 
 entrusted. He had studied the African cha- 
 racter in all its phases in its moral, social, and 
 external form; and like Alcibiades accommo- 
 dated himself with equal ease to good, as well 
 to bad fortune to prosperity, as well as to ad- 
 versity. He was never highly elated at the 
 prospect of accomplishing his darling wishes 
 the great object of his ambition nor deeply 
 depressed when, environed by danger care, dis- 
 appointment, and bodily suffering which hang- 
 ing heavily upon him, forbade him to indulge in 
 hopeful anticipations. The negro loved him, 
 because he admh-ed the simplicity of his man- 
 ners, and mingled with pleasure in his favourite 
 dance; the Arab hated him, because he was 
 overawed by his commanding appearance, and 
 because the keen penetrating glance of the Bri- 
 tish Captain detected his guilty thoughts, and 
 made him quail with apprehension and fear. 
 
 Captain Clapperton's stature was tall; his 
 disposition was warm and benevolent ; his temper 
 mild, even, and cheerful ; while his ingenuous,
 
 80 THE GRAVE. 
 
 manly countenance, pourtrayed the generous 
 emotions that reigned in his breast. In fine, he 
 united the figure and determination of a man, 
 with the gentleness and simplicity of a child ; 
 and, if I mistake not, he will live in the me- 
 mory of many thousands of Africans, until they 
 cease to breathe, as something more than mor- 
 tal ; nor have I the least doubt that the period 
 of his visiting their country will be regarded by 
 some as a new era, from which all events of conse- 
 quence, that affect them, will hereafter be dated. 
 
 The grave was dug on a naked piece of 
 ground, with no remarkable object near it to 
 invite attention ; no mournful cypress or yew 
 weeps over the lonely spot no sculptured mar- 
 ble shines above all that remains of heroic enter- 
 prize and daring adventure ! But the sleeper 
 needs no funereal emblem to perpetuate his 
 name and actions, having erected for himself a 
 nobler and far more imperishable mausoleum in 
 the breasts of his countrymen and the civilized 
 world, than all the artists in the universe could 
 rear over his ashes. 
 
 Returning, after the funeral, disconsolate and 
 oppressed, to my solitary habitation, I leaned
 
 AUTHOR'S REFLECTIONS. 81 
 
 my head on my hands, and could not help being 
 deeply affected with my lonesome and danger- 
 ous situation. A hundred and fifteen days' 
 journey from the sea-coast; surrounded by a 
 selfish and barbarous race of strangers; my only 
 friend and protector, and last hope, mouldering 
 in his grave, and myself suffering dreadfully from 
 fever : 1 felt as if I stood alone in the world, and 
 wished, ardently wished, I had been enjoying 
 the same deep, undisturbed, cold sleep as my 
 master, and in the same grave. All the try- 
 ing evils I had encountered all the afflictions 
 I had endured all the bereavements I had 
 experienced, never affected me half so much as 
 the bitter reflections of that distressing period. 
 After a sleepless night, I went alone to the 
 grave, and found that nothing had been done to 
 it, nor did there seem to be the least inclination 
 on the part of the inhabitants of the village to 
 redeem their pledge. Knowing it would be use- 
 less to remonstrate with such wretches, I hired 
 two slaves in Soccatoo the next day, who went 
 to work immediately, and the shed over the 
 grave was finished on the 15th. 
 
 E5
 
 82 
 
 w ola t 9e ^rn Is .- 
 bfm abnad *^ra sgrmlq O3 
 
 I * .-/hod brie bfisd ^ahruid Tin gaibJniiqa vita. 
 
 jrfj me/ft vfsvoDyi lo sqod yiovo Lauobruidfi bed 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 te j&f;t 'ortr og'isbnu - ol (.s-iiitfaai 
 
 vrtl l)l!JJfft 1 t iij'3S oih no ti 
 
 fi n 
 
 The Author's severe indisposition and distress of mind Conduct 
 
 ' 'of Bello Departure from Soccatoo The Author almost pe- 
 
 rishes of thirst in the " Goober Bush," where he is deserted 
 
 by the faithless Pasko The King of Jacoba Horrid death of 
 
 that monarch's slaves The Author's arrival at Kano. 
 
 K dji'fj jud '{rn b^iyjiii* ^JJquidc iWi^iili ybiB- 
 THE acute suffering, both in mind and body, 
 and the ceaseless agitation and excitement in 
 which I had been kept during the illness, and 
 at the death and burial of my master, occasioned 
 my disorder to increase rapidly on me ; and on 
 the 16th, being enabled with difficulty to crawl 
 round the hut, I was obliged to lay myself on my 
 mat, from which I had not strength to arise till 
 the 27th ; old Pasko, during that period, minis- 
 tering to all my wants. Whilst I was thus con- 
 fined, the weather was so dreadfully warm, that 
 I was under the necessity of having a tub of 

 
 AUTHOR'S ILLNESS. 83 
 
 water at my side, into which, at intervals, I used 
 to plunge my hands and arms, besides occasion- 
 ally sprinkling my burning head and body. I 
 had abandoned every hope of recovery from the 
 effects of my complaint, and was prepared, in 
 some measure, to undergo the last struggle, 
 when, on the 26th, I found my health suddenly 
 improve in a manner altogether as unexpected as 
 strange ; and on the following day I was enabled 
 to sit erect on my mat. In the course of that 
 day (27th) the Godado, mallam Mudey, and 
 Side Sheikh abruptly entered my hut, with a 
 commission from the Sultan to search my boxes;, 
 that prince having been informed, just before, 
 that they were filled with gold and silver ; al- 
 though his sole intention, I well knew, was that 
 of ascertaining what fire-arms were in my pos- 
 session. 
 
 Weak as 1 was, I remonstrated sharply with 
 these ministers of the king's will, whilst they 
 were prosecuting the search ; but it was of no 
 avail every thing was ransacked and turned 
 topsy-turvy. 
 
 They expressed the greatest astonishment on
 
 84 BELLO. 
 
 finding not even sufficient money to defray my 
 expenses to the sea coast ; but, nevertheless, 
 took an inventory of the contents of the boxes, 
 and carried it to their sovereign. Foreseeing 
 what would happen, I had taken the precaution 
 to secrete about my person the gold watch in- 
 tended for the Sultan, as well as the private 
 watches of Captains Clapperton and Pearce. 
 The Godado and his coadjutor returned a short 
 time afterwards, with a command from their 
 monarch to deliver up to them the following 
 articles, viz. a rifle and a double-barrelled gun, 
 two bags of ball, a canister of powder, bag of 
 flints, ream and half of paper, and six gold (gilt) 
 chains ; for which he promised to pay me what- 
 ever I might demand. I consequently charged 
 him a quarter of a million of cowries for the 
 goods, which I was to receive, on account of the 
 Sultan, of Hat Sallah ; and an order was given 
 me to receive that sum in Kano, and what more 
 1 might require in my journey over the Desert. 
 
 On the 28th I made Ben Gumso a present of 
 four yards of blue, and the same quantity of 
 scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, two
 
 BEN GUMSO. 85 
 
 pair of scissors and two knives. With these 
 articles, which to him were invaluable, I endea- 
 voured to get still further into the good graces 
 of this old Arab emir, who, by a singular piece of 
 good fortune, had just begun to exercise a pow- 
 erful influence over the mind and actions of the 
 superstitious Sultan. 
 
 After escaping from the death he was threat- 
 ened with at Katunga, which has already been 
 related, this emir returned to Soccatoo; and, 
 like his cheating countrymen, procured a hand- 
 some livelihood by writing charms, &c. &c. for 
 the Falatahs. Ben Gumso accompanied Bello in 
 his engagement with the Towayahs, when that 
 monarch was pierced with a poisoned arrow. 
 The Arab's panacea was resorted to on this 
 occasion ; and having written his charm on a 
 piece of wood, it was washed off, as usual, into 
 a calabash of water, and hastily swallowed by 
 the prince. By some means the venom never 
 took effect, and the Sultan having recovered from 
 his wound in a few days, attributed the cure 
 solely to Ben Gumso's specific. To display his 
 gratitude for the good which had been done
 
 86 BEN GUMSO. 
 
 him, Bello admitted the fortunate charmer into 
 his councils, and covered him with honors and 
 emoluments. ri atdmstd 
 
 This being the case, I conceived a trifling 
 present would be well timed; and therefore, 
 after putting it into his hands, entreated him to 
 use his interest with his royal master, in order 
 to obtain his permission for my leaving Soc- 
 catoo, and making the best of my way home- 
 wards. Accordingly, Ben Gumso represented 
 to the Sultan in lively colours the injustice, as 
 well as impolicy, of detaining any longer in his 
 dominions a subject of the powerful king of 
 England ; and advised him to hasten my de- 
 parture as much as he could, insinuating, that if 
 I were to die in Soccatoo, a report would be cir- 
 culated and believed, that he had murdered both 
 the white men, by which he would most cer- 
 tainly acquire a bad character. ,tb ,rujjlu8 : 
 , This artful reasoning overcame the scruples 
 of the Falatah prince, and word was sent me 
 almost immediately, to appear before him. 
 Bello had the gravity of a Mohammedan about 
 him on my entrance, and putting on all the dig-
 
 INTERVIEW WITH BELLO. 87 
 
 nity he could assume, looked like Pluto trying a 
 ghost for the sins it had committed on the earth. 
 However, I did not tremble in his august pre- 
 sence ; and after a little preliminary conversa- 
 tion, the Sultan asked me which route I should 
 prefer in order to reach my own country. 
 
 Now, although my master had intimated his 
 wish for me to proceed with the Arabs to Fez- 
 zan, a few days only before his death, I much 
 feared that the papers, &c. entrusted to my care 
 would be taken from me, and myself murdered, 
 by that wily and treacherous race, whose beha- 
 viour to my master, after his arrival in Houssa ? 
 was most abominable. I therefore disliked 
 them hated them; and would rather cast myself, 
 unarmed and unprotected, upon the good faith 
 of the natives, than go in their train. Under 
 these impressions and prejudices, I answered 
 the Sultan, that I wished to arrive in England in 
 as short a time as possible, and the route through 
 Boussa to Cubbe was most likely to accomplish 
 that object. " It is impossible," angrily rejoined 
 the prince, "to travel in that direction; the 
 rainy season is already set in ; the rivers are
 
 88 INTERVIEW WITH BELLO. 
 
 overflowed ; the low lands are under water ; and 
 how do you think to reach the sea-coast in 
 safety ? It will be far better for you to go over 
 the desert, with the Arabs ; and to facilitate your 
 progress, I will write to Hat Sallah to get a trust- 
 worthy person to accompany you ; he will also 
 furnish you with camels and provisions, and pay 
 you the money I am indebted to you." I simply 
 replied, Very well, Sultan." He then wished 
 to know whether Captain Clapperton had for- 
 given Pasko, in his book, for the robberies he had 
 committed; and on my answering that, owing to 
 the illnesss of that gentleman, he had been un - 
 able even to look into his Journal, the monarch 
 observed, that on Pasko 's arrival in England, 
 my king would undoubtedly behead him. I as- 
 sured him, that if the man's future conduct 
 proved to be good, not one of my countrymen 
 would think of punishing him ; but this the Sul- 
 tan was in no haste to believe, and said, impe- 
 ratively, " I cannot suffer him to accompany 
 you ; he must stay here to clean and repair my 
 guns ! " this latter consideration evidently pos- 
 greater weight with him than Pasko's
 
 DEPARTURE FROM SOCCATOO. 89 
 
 safety? which he cared nothing at all about. 
 Not in the least daunted, I besought Bello to 
 permit him to accompany me as far as Kano, as 
 interpreter; to which he rather reluctantly con- 
 sented, on condition that I should procure him 
 a horse to return, and pay him the sum of 
 150,000 cowries, which, of course, I agreed to ; 
 and seeing that the Sultan had nothing more to 
 say, I bowed profoundly, and retired. This 
 was my last interview with the Falatah sove- 
 reign, and I saw him no more. 
 
 On the evening of the 3d of May a person 
 came with a message from the Sultan, who said 
 that a camel and some provisions would be sent 
 me in the course of the morning, and that 1 was 
 to depart on the next day. Neither camel nor 
 provisions, however, were delivered ; and, rising 
 early on the appointed morning, I bade a last 
 farewell to Soccatoo, a town in which I had suf- 
 fered so dreadfully ; and, accompanied by a mes- 
 senger from the kind old Godado, and Pasko and 
 Mudey, we proceeded with our camels and horses 
 to a large plain, five miles to the east of Magaria, 
 where we arrived in the afternoon ; and rested
 
 90 NATIVE MERCHANTS. 
 
 for the night under the wide-spreading branches 
 of a large tree growing on the margin of an in- 
 significant lake. Mosquitoes were in such num- 
 bers, and so troublesome, that we could not 
 sleep till morning, when a refreshing breeze 
 springing up, drove them away. ;> ^^fe j A 
 
 At this flat we joined a party of above four 
 thousand people, of all ranks and of every na- 
 tion ; some going on a pilgrimage to Mecca ; 
 some to the sea-coast to purchase goora-nuts; 
 many Tuarick salt-merchants returning to 
 Kilgris ; but all travelling in company for mu- 
 tual protection, and bending their way towards 
 Kashna, where merchants of every description 
 meet, and disperse from thence to their differ- 
 ent destinations. An infinite number of camels, 
 horses, and bullocks, attended the party; and 
 the king of Jacoba, with 50 slaves, was also in 
 their train. These poor creatures had been 
 driven from his kingdom by the above prince to 
 Soccatoo, as a present or tribute to Sultan 
 Bello ; but that monarch having learnt the 
 dreadful losses he had sustained in men and 
 cattle, in consequence of his war with Bornou,
 
 THE GOOBER BUSH. 91 
 
 and the number of villages which had been 
 plundered and burnt by the soldiers of the 
 Sheikh, would not accept of the slaves, but de- 
 sired the king of Jacoba to re-conduct them 
 back to his own dominions. 
 
 At eleven o'clock in the morning of the 4th of 
 May a signal to depart was made by a loud 
 blast from a thousand horns, producing a fright- 
 fully discordant noise ; and in about an hour 
 afterwards the whole party was in motion. On 
 entering the dreaded " Goober Bush," a wild 
 and uncultivated tract of ground, covered with 
 stunted trees, we were obliged to redouble our 
 pace in order to escape the fangs of the merci- 
 less Towayahs. Boussa Jack (a horse so called 
 from having been made a present of by the king 
 of Boussa) I rode myself, on account of his swift- 
 ness and agility ; but being unused to so violent 
 an exertion, the little animal became much 
 fatigued, and began to lag behind the others. 
 The weather was at that time intolerably hot ; 
 vegetation shrank before the piercing rays of 
 the sun, and the dust raised by the hoofs of the 
 horses, &c. arose in huge volumes in every
 
 92 AUTHOR'S DISTRESS. 
 
 direction, entering my eyes, my mouth, my nos- 
 trils, and penetrating even the pores of my skin. 
 Not a breath of air fanned the leaves of the 
 trees ; I was almost suffocated for want of it, 
 but snuffed up only sand and dust. The camels 
 were far a-head: I was faint and exhausted, and 
 ordered Pasko to fly to them for a drop of water. 
 The horse would, or rather could, proceed no 
 further; I was obliged to dismount, and seat 
 myself under a tree ; there, holding the bridle 
 of the poor animal in my hand, I begged, I 
 prayed the thousands of Falatahs and Tuaricks 
 that were passing, for a mouthful of water to 
 quench my parching thirst ; but the unfeeling, 
 iron-hearted wretches mocked my misery, and 
 scoffed at my piteous entreaties, observing, one 
 to another, " He is a Kafir ; let him die ! " 
 
 This cruel disappointment almost choked me ; 
 I was so hoarse that I could no longer be 
 heard, and, falling flat on my back, let the bri- 
 dle slip from my fingers, and, covering my face 
 with my hands, tears came involuntarily into my 
 eyes. At length a young Falatah, from Foota 
 Toora, accidentally seeing me lying along the
 
 THE COMPASSIONATE FALATAH. 
 
 93 
 
 earth with a horse standing listlessly by, came to 
 the spot, and exclaimed, in a tone of kindness, 
 " Christian, Christian, why don't you go on ? " 
 On hearing him, I again sat up, and answered, 
 " I am faint and sick for want of water ; no 
 one will relieve me ; and how can I go on ? " 

 
 94 THE COMPASSIONATE FALATAH. 
 
 On hearing this, the young man generously pre- 
 sented me with a small calabash full (about a 
 pint), part of which I drank, and with the re- 
 mainder washed the nostrils of Boussa Jack, and 
 sprinkled a little into his mouth. His country- 
 men, who observed the compassionate Falatah 
 performing this benevolent action, upbraided 
 him in violent terms for having given water to the 
 Christian; but my amiable preserver, showing 
 them a double-barrelled gun, remarked that he 
 had obtained it of my countrymen, who were all 
 good men, and would do no harm. I, as well 
 as the horse, was greatly refreshed with the 
 small quantity of water thus taken, but soon 
 becoming again weak and dispirited, I was nearly 
 reduced to as bad a condition as before, A few 
 hours afterwards my legs were swollen so prodi- 
 giously, that my boots split into fragments, and 
 fell from my feet; and I experienced the most 
 acute pain in every part of my body. At 
 length I perceived Pasko, whom I had sent for 
 water three or four hours previously, comfort- 
 ably seated with Muley the camel-driver, under
 
 PASKO. 95 
 
 a tree, my provision basket lying open before 
 him, a calabash of the purest water gurgling 
 down his throat, and him, with his sable compa- 
 nion, thoughtlessly enjoying himself with a zest 
 that almost distracted me. I rode hastily up to 
 the spot, and, pulling out a pistol, had more 
 than half an inclination to send the heartless old 
 savage to his long account, but suddenly checked 
 myself. No ! I could not take away the life of a 
 fellow-creature, even in the height of excitement ; 
 and, replacing the pistol in my belt, I simply 
 asked the reason of his brutal treatment of me. 
 The old fellow answered with his usual demo- 
 niacal grin, and as composedly as if nothing was 
 the matter, " I was tired." 
 
 The young Falatah to whom I owe my life 
 came to me on the 7th, and informed me that 
 the whole of the slaves of the King of Jacoba 
 being missing, a party of horsemen had been 
 sent in quest ot them, and were just returned 
 with the shocking intelligence of having seen 
 thirty-five of their dead bodies lying along the 
 road; and that hundreds of vultures were al- 
 ready hovering over them. The other fifteen
 
 96 KING OF JACOBA. 
 
 could not be found; but were strongly suspected 
 of having shared in the same fate. These un- 
 fortunate creatures had the task of carrying loads 
 on their heads the day before, but, being unable 
 to keep up with the rapid pace of the camels, 
 were necessarily obliged to be left behind, and 
 thus perished miserably of thirst and fatigue. I 
 congratulated myself on my own good fortune, 
 in having so narrowly escaped a fate so pecu- 
 liarly frightful ; and thanked the Almighty with 
 fervor and sincerity for having snatched me 
 from the very jaws of death. On his leaving me, 
 I gave the Falatah a pair of scissors and twenty 
 gun-flints, as a small recompense for the emi- 
 nent service he had so cheerfully rendered me. 
 
 On our road to Kano, the King of Jacoba 
 became very sociable with me, and was my con- 
 stant companion. After pressing me to visit his 
 kingdom, in which he asserted he would make 
 my stay agreeable, he told me that the Yam 
 Yams, who inhabit the mountains contiguous to 
 Jacoba, were anthropophagi, in which assertion 
 he was borne out by two Yam Yams, who were 
 slaves in Kano when I was in that city. The
 
 YAM YAM FEROCITY. 97 
 
 Prince said further, that people of the same na- 
 tion, who had assisted him in his war with Bor- 
 nou, were surrounded, with some of his own 
 troops, on a plain near Jacoba, by the Sheikh's 
 soldiers, and the carnage on both sides was 
 dreadful. The fight lasted a whole day, when, 
 in the evening, the Jacobeans, with their fero- 
 cious allies, were entirely routed, and the King 
 himself, who commanded them, very narrowly 
 escaped being taken prisoner. On the follow- 
 ing morning the discomfited Yam Yams re- 
 paired to the field of battle, and bearing off a 
 great number of dead bodies, roasted them before 
 large fires, kindled for the purpose, and de- 
 voured them without yams, corn, or, indeed, 
 any other provisions! 
 
 Soon after our arrival at Markee, on the 
 19th, a spouse of the chief; a finely-formed and 
 intelligent-looking young woman, came to me 
 with tears in her eyes, and implored me to give 
 her some magonie [medicine], as she had no 
 child. I accordingly presented her with a cou- 
 ple of tea-spoonfuls of oil of cinnamon, and 
 ordered her, with a suitable caution, to put two 
 
 VOL. II. F
 
 ARRIVAL AT KANO. 
 
 drops of the liquor into a pint of cow's milk, 
 which was to be swallowed three times a day till 
 the whole was consumed ; observing that, on my 
 return to Markee, I had not the least doubt of 
 seeing her the happy mother of a numerous 
 progeny ! 
 
 The husband was no sooner acquainted with 
 the circumstance than he came and thanked me 
 in the heartiest manner for the good I had done, 
 gave me abundance of fresh milk, fowls, rice, &c. 
 and told me at the same time that on my return 
 from England, he would reward me with a large 
 sum of money, which I dare say he will do. When 
 I bade the happy couple adieu next morning, 
 they squeezed my hand affectionately, and said, 
 " Christian ! God send you safely to your country, 
 and may you speedily come back to Markee ! " 
 
 I arrived at Kano on the 25th of May, and 
 instantly delivered Belle's letter and orders to 
 Hadje Hat Sallah ; but the Arab, after perusing 
 them, declared at first that he would have no- 
 thing to do with me. He had nearly lost his 
 head, he said, on Captain Clapperton's account 
 on a previous occasion, and positively refused to
 
 HAT SALLAH. 
 
 lend me a single cowry. " I have no objection," 
 he continued, " to let you have, in goods and a 
 slave, the amount of your demand on the sul- 
 tan, but I shall certainly do no more," I ac- 
 cordingly received from Hat Sallah a strong 
 female slave, and a quantity of unwrought silk, 
 and scarlet caps, beads to sell on my jour- 
 ney. My weakened and diseased camels, which 
 would be of no service to me, I parted with, 
 and dismissed their keeper, Maddie.
 
 100 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Pasko The Author pays his respects to the Governor, and 
 leaves Kano Chooses, near Bebajie, the road to Fundah 
 Alraena mountain The Author is seen and recognized by 
 horsemen from Zeg Zeg Arrives amongst the people of Bow- 
 chee Their manners A girl's lamentation on being sold by 
 her mother The Author enters the immense plain of Cuttup 
 Anecdote of an old woman. 
 
 NOT having sufficient money at my disposal 
 to purchase fresh camels, or provisions and pre- 
 sents for the different chiefs of towns on the 
 road to Fezzan, I was necessitated to take a dif- 
 ferent route, which I was not at all sorry for; and 
 for that purpose purchased a horse and two 
 asses. Bello had not forgotten to desire Hat 
 Sallah, in his letter to him, to send back Pasko 
 to Soccatoo the day after my arrival at Kano, and 
 procure me a substitute. I begged of him, how- 
 ever, to suffer the Haussan to accompany me to
 
 PASKO. 101 
 
 Coulfo in Nyffe, and promised to have him con- 
 veyed back to Kano on my arrival there. He at 
 first refused to accede to my wishes, but the temp- 
 tation of a present, the best argument in the 
 world in such cases, made the old Arab smile 
 an assent to my proposition ; and calling Pasko 
 into his presence, he gave him permission to at- 
 tend me to Coulfo, but enjoined him to return the 
 moment he had entered that city, on pain of hav- 
 ing Jerrub (the Devil) sent after him. The old 
 offender, who could be moved by nothing else, 
 at the bare sound of Jerrub was flung into a 
 violent fever, and hastened to me in great trepi- 
 dation shortly after, every member of his body 
 trembling like an aspen-leaf. After giving me 
 to understand, as well as his agitation would 
 allow him to do, the conversation he had had 
 with Hat Sallah, and in consequence thereof 
 his reluctance to quit Kano with me, I endea- 
 voured to deride him out of his superstitious 
 prejudices ; but they had taken so firm a grasp 
 on his mind that all my exertions were ineffec- 
 tual ; and he still persevered in his resolution of 
 remaining behind. Knowing Pasko's tender re-
 
 102 PASKO. 
 
 gard for the softer sex, however, I made this .a 
 means of accomplishing my object. I had con- 
 sented he should take the slave that Hat Sallah 
 had sold me, to wife, for he had forgotten 
 the lovely Mattah, of tuah celebrity, and felt 
 great loneliness in the absence of female con- 
 verse; I therefore assured him that unless he 
 would consent to accompany me, a separation 
 should instantly take place. The event showed 
 that I had touched the right chord ; on hearing 
 my decision, he trembled more violently than 
 ever, and while rivers of tears flowed down his 
 furrowed cheeks, exclaimed, in a tone of agony 
 that rendered his expression almost inarticulate, 
 " O, don't I will go." This weighty point 
 being decided, I made the necessary prepara- 
 tions for my departure. 
 
 On the 29th, Hat Sallah hinted that it would 
 be well for me to pay a visit to the governor of 
 Kano, who was at Faniso. I agreed with the 
 Arab in opinion, and waited on his Excellency 
 in the course of the morning, who, on my leav- 
 ing him, said, "When you return to your
 
 THE KOGIE RIVER. 103 
 
 country, Christian, give the Falatahs a good 
 name." 
 
 In the afternoon we left Kano, and travelling 
 at a rapid rate, halted on the banks of the Kogie, 
 four hours' journey from that place, but the 
 river being much swollen, we did not dare to 
 cross it. To our infinite disappointment I found 
 that the tent poles had been left behind, and 
 was therefore obliged to send back one of the 
 servants to fetch them, giving him a sword in 
 proof that he was despatched by me. The 
 scoundrel, however, never returned; and it 
 being necessary for us to rest on the margin of 
 the stream that night, I slung the tent to the 
 branch of a tree, and fastened the lower part of 
 it to the earth. In the evening the rain poured 
 down in torrents, accompanied by awful and 
 tremendous thunder, so that in the night, our 
 tent being completely drenched, the bough to 
 which it was appended broke with its increasing 
 weight ; and falling on us as we were reposing 
 on our mats, we found it impossible to sleep, 
 and were obliged to remain in that miserable 
 plight till the next morning.
 
 104 BEN GUMSO'S SLAVES. 
 
 We arose at an early hour, and as soon as 
 things were put in some kind of order, I sent 
 Pasko to Kano, to endeavour to apprehend the 
 fellow that had absconded with my sword, for I 
 fancied thatone rogue was better qualified to detect 
 another, than an honest man : but the man not 
 having been seen in the city, Pasko was unsuccess- 
 ful in his search, and returned, very much down 
 in the mouth, bringing with him the tent-poles. 
 The river Kogie by that time was become ford- 
 able; but, in consequence of the strength and 
 rapidity of its current, we crossed with extreme 
 difficulty. No sooner was this object effected, 
 and before we had time to clothe ourselves, than 
 four armed slaves from Soccatoo hastened up to 
 us, and demanded the four thousand cowries, 
 which, it will he recollected Pasko had borrowed 
 of Ben Gumso, to defray the expenses of his 
 marriage with the accomplished, but hard- 
 handed, Mattah Gewow. Pasko protested that 
 he had left property in Soccatoo to the value of 
 fifty thousand cowries, out of which Ben Gumso 
 might satisfy himself. This answer by no means 
 pleased the myrmidons of the illustrious Arab
 
 MANDUBIE. 105 
 
 emir, who, for the sake of little more than a 
 shilling of English money, had despatched four 
 men to the distance of between two and three 
 hundred miles to arrest the debtor ; and they 
 were about to take the affectionate lover away 
 by force, when I thought it time to interfere, 
 and paid them the money they demanded. The 
 armed scoundrels then went their way, taking 
 with them the whole of Pasko's wearing apparel, 
 which he had left on the opposite side of the 
 stream; so that the every-way unfortunate man 
 was obliged to have a rough mat tied to his 
 waist, till I could procure him a more becoming 
 garment. This little matter being adjusted, to 
 the complete satisfaction of the husband of Mat- 
 tah, we slept on the borders of the stream for 
 the night, and pursued our journey on the morn- 
 ing of the next day. At two o'clock we arrived 
 at a small walled town called Madubie, in which 
 I erected my tent; and in the evening the chief's 
 daughter visited me with milk, and a huge bowl 
 of beef and tuah, sufficient for the whole of us 
 for supper. 
 
 The weather had been violent during the 
 
 F5
 
 106 AUTHOR'S CHOICE OF ROUTE. 
 
 night, but clearing up early on the 1st of June, 
 we dried the tent, and journeyed onwards till we 
 arrived at the Gora, a narrow, but deep and 
 rapid river. As on the former occasion, the 
 men experienced considerable difficulty in at- 
 taining the opposite side, and I was greatly 
 afraid they would be washed away and drowned 
 by the swiftness with which the water rolled on ; 
 but, happily, after a world of exertion, they 
 crossed in safety, and at one at noon, passing 
 near the walled town of Bebajie, I desired them 
 to proceed a-head. I myself followed alone at 
 some distance, for I dreaded being seen by any 
 of the straggling inhabitants, who, if they hap- 
 pened to recognize my features, would infallibly 
 detain me amongst them. In half an hour we 
 came to two other roads, the one leading to 
 Nyffe, and the other to the far-famed Fundah. 
 
 When Capt. Clapperton found himself dying 
 in Soccatoo, he intimated to me that if I at- 
 tempted to return through Nyffe and Yariba, 
 the inhabitants of one of those countries, who 
 must have heard of our having taken presents 
 to their common adversary, would undoubtedly
 
 KOOFA. 107 
 
 put me to death; and this was the reason he 
 wished to impress so strongly upon me the ne- 
 cessity of my accompanying the Arabs over the 
 desert. I paused for an instant, as I looked on 
 each of the said roads ; but, feeling an earnest 
 desire, which I could not repress, to visit Fun- 
 dah, on the banks of the Niger, and trace that 
 much-talked of river in a canoe to Benin ; and, 
 perhaps, fearing that my departed master's ob- 
 servation was well-grounded, I did not hesitate 
 a great while, but travelled on the latter road. 
 
 About six in the evening we erected our tent 
 near to Koofa, a small walled town, in which I 
 was fortunate enough to obtain a little sleep for 
 the first time since leaving Kano. The town is 
 situated at the base of an immense rock, on 
 which there is not the slightest trace of vegeta- 
 tion ; and, although extremely populous, is no 
 more than two miles in circumference. To the 
 eastward of it is a range of high hills, stretching 
 from north to south as far as the eye can reach ; 
 and their slopes being green and luxuriant, they 
 wore a delightful appearance. 
 
 On the three following days, we crossed seve-
 
 108 ALMENA MOUNTAIN. 
 
 ral rapid streams, and passed through many in- 
 significant walled towns. The country traversed 
 on those days, although level, was picturesque 
 and beautiful ; and all nature was covered with a 
 lively verdure. 
 
 On the 4th of June we came to the foot of a 
 high and craggy mountain, called Almena, ris- 
 ing abruptly from the plains. It consists of gi- 
 gantic blocks of granite, fearfully piled on each 
 other, and at a distance resembled the rocks in 
 the vicinity of the celebrated logan-stone, in 
 Cornwall. Mohammed, an intelligent mussul- 
 man, who was acquainted with the traditions of 
 the whole country, seating himself on a mass of 
 rock, gave me the following story : 
 
 "About five hundred years ago, a queen of 
 the Fantee nation, having quarrelled with her 
 husband about a golden stool, fled with it from 
 her dominions, followed by a great number of 
 her subjects ; and built a considerable town at 
 the foot of this mountain, which she called Al- 
 mena. Her irritated husband pursued the queen 
 with an army ; but, losing a great part of his 
 men from sickness and other causes, adopted
 
 GATAS. 109 
 
 the language of a suppliant instead of the bear- 
 ing of the general of an army, and prayed to be 
 admitted into the town, and live in peace with 
 his ambitious spouse. His petition was granted, 
 and the newly-built town flourished under their 
 joint government till about ten or twelve years 
 afterwards, when the natives of the country rose 
 against them, and putting the principal inhabit- 
 ants, with their sovereign, to death, took the re- 
 mainder into slavery, and levelled the ill-fated 
 Almena with the dust." 
 
 The town, of whatever kind it might have 
 been, was formerly surrounded by a wall, the 
 ruins of which are yet visible. 
 
 We halted at another walled town, called 
 Gatas, in the afternoon, where I accidentally 
 met with some Kano merchants from Cuttup. 
 The inhabitants, discovering by some means 
 that I was a Christian, came in crowds to see 
 me; but behaved in an orderly and respectful 
 manner. I invited the most respectable females 
 into my tent, which they all greatly admired, 
 and in return for this civility shortly afterwards 
 presented me with milk andfoorak. The inha-
 
 110 NAMMALEEK. 
 
 bitants of Gatas, as well as those of every other 
 town I had passed through since leaving Kano, 
 are natives of Houssa, and tributary to the Fa- 
 latahs. 
 
 We halted at the outside of Damoy on the 
 5th, the inhabitants of which informed me that 
 the range of hills I have already mentioned as 
 extending to the verge of the horizon, are inha- 
 bited by the terrible Yam Yams, whom they all 
 declared to be confirmed cannibals. That sin- 
 gular people formerly carried on an extensive 
 traffic with the natives of the surrounding coun- 
 try in elephants' teeth, which they exchanged 
 for red cloth, beads, &c. ; but having about five 
 years before assassinated and eaten a gaffle of 
 merchants, all communication had, from that 
 period, been cut off, between the savage moun- 
 taineers and their timid neighbours of the plains. 
 
 We arrived at Nammaleek on the 7th: the 
 town is defended by a mountain nearly perpen- 
 dicular, and thickly covered with wood. Thou- 
 sands of hyaenas, tiger-cats, jackalls, monkeys, 
 &c. which exist on the latter, kept so terrific a 
 noise during the night, that although much fa-
 
 NAMMALEEK. Ill 
 
 tigued, I could not close my eyes. These ani- 
 mals are so bold and rapacious, that the pool- 
 inhabitants of Nammaleek cannot preserve a sin- 
 gle bullock, sheep, or goat ; in consequence of 
 which no animal food was to be had in the town. 
 The chief put us into a hut, and presented us 
 with tuah, which being most unpalatable stuff, 
 by reason of a little sauce, prepared from the 
 juice of the monkey's bread-fruit tree, which 
 had been mixed with it, I could not taste a 
 mouthful. 
 
 I intended to have remained in the place for 
 a few hours on the following day, in order to 
 take medicine; for, having a slight fever on me, 
 I felt extremely unwell ; but the curiosity of the 
 people not permitting me to embrace an oppor- 
 tunity of opening my medicine-chest, excepting 
 in their presence, I felt no inclination to try the 
 experiment. In the course of the day (7th) 
 two messengers unluckily recognized me, and 
 asked whither I was journeying. On my ac- 
 quainting them, the horsemen instantly rode off, 
 and, as I subsequently learnt, returned to Zaria, 
 and informed the King of Zeg Zeg that the
 
 112 DISEASED SLAVES. 
 
 Christian was on his way to Fundah, with two 
 asses, loaded with riches, and a beautiful horse, 
 as presents to the monarch of that kingdom. 
 
 Leaving Nammaleek on the 8th, and keeping 
 in a south-westerly direction, at the base, of a 
 range of mountains, we observed an opening 
 through them, and rode to the opposite side. 
 Our course then lay more easterly ; and, having 
 crossed one large and three small rivers, whose 
 names I could not learn, we arrived at Fullin- 
 dushie, the frontier town in Catica, or Bowchee, 
 in the afternoon. On our journey we met, on their 
 way to Soccatoo, as a tax paid to Sultan Bello 
 from a neighbouring country, thirty slaves, men, 
 women, and children, who were all ill with the 
 small pox. The males were tied to each other by 
 the neck, with thongs made of twisted bullock's 
 hide ; but the women and children were uncon- 
 fined: notwithstanding the loathsome disease that 
 hung upon these poor wretches, they all appeared 
 merry, thoughtless, and happy, as though iheyhad 
 been enjoying their freedom in perfect health. 
 
 The inhabitants of Fullindushie were the first 
 people in Africa 1 had seen that disdained to
 
 FULLINDUSHIE. 113 
 
 confine their well-proportioned limbs in any 
 kind of dress; they went perfectly naked, and 
 laughed immoderately on seeing me ; whilst I, 
 on my part, made myself equally merry at the 
 singularity of their appearance. Their sable 
 locks were bedecked with huge lumps of red 
 clay and grease their bodies shone with a 
 clammy unction, any thing but agreeable to the 
 eye, or pleasant to the smell a massy piece of 
 blue glass hung from a hole in the upper lip- 
 and from the lobe of the ear dangled a mis- 
 shapen fragment of red wood, about the large- 
 ness of a man's thumb. 
 
 Their features do not resemble, in the slightest 
 degree, those of the Negro, but are fine, regular 
 and handsome, bearing a striking similitude to 
 the European, such as impressed me at first sight ; 
 yet, with all these pretensions to superiority 
 over their jetty neighbours in personal appear- 
 ance, they yield to them in cleanliness and 
 decency; for, although an artless, good-tem- 
 pered, social race, the Bowchee people are 
 filthy in their habits, and disgusting in their 
 manners; their sheep, goats, and poultry eat
 
 114 BOWCHEE PEOPLE. 
 
 and sleep in the same room with them, and a 
 most intolerable odour is exhaled from all their 
 dwellings. When the females of Catica go to 
 market, they wear a twig tied to the middle, and 
 hanging down in front. Nothing can be more 
 graceful or picturesque than a troop of these 
 modest damsels proceeding to market bedizened 
 in this manner ; and I could hardly tell what to 
 make of a body of about a hundred of them 
 which met me near La Zumee. The Bowchee 
 people appear to have no affection for their 
 offspring the gentle appeals of nature are un- 
 known to them parental tenderness dwells not 
 in their bosoms ; and they sell their children as 
 slaves to the greatest strangers in the world, 
 with no greater remorse of conscience than if 
 they had been common articles of merchandize. 
 As a proof of this strange and unnatural apathy 
 on the part of a mother towards her child, the 
 following touching scene took place at Fullin- 
 dushie whilst I was in the town : 
 
 A travelling slave-dealer passing through the 
 place, had purchased several of their children, of 
 both sexes, from the inhabitants; and amongst
 
 AFFECTING SCENE. 115 
 
 others, a middle-aged woman had an only 
 daughter, whom she parted with for a necklace 
 of beads. The unhappy girl, who might have 
 been about thirteen or fourteen years of age, on 
 being dragged away from the threshold of her 
 parents' hut, clung distractedly, like a ship- 
 wrecked mariner to a floating mast, round the 
 knees of her unfeeling mother, and looking up 
 wistfully in her countenance, burst into a flood 
 of tears, exclaiming with vehemence and pas- 
 sion : " O mother ! do not sell me ; what will 
 become of me ? what will become of yourself 
 in your old age, if you suffer me to desert you ? 
 Who will fetch you corn and milk ? Who will 
 pity you when you die ? Have I been unkind 
 to you ? O, mother ! do not sell your only 
 daughter. I will take you in my arms when 
 you are feeble, and carry you under the shade 
 of trees. As a hen watches over her chicken, 
 so will I watch over you, my dear mother. I 
 will repay the kindness you showed me in my 
 infant years. When you are weary, I will fan 
 you to sleep ; and whilst you are sleeping, I will 
 drive away flies from you. I will attend on you
 
 116 LA ZUMEE. 
 
 when you are in pain ; and when you die I will 
 shed rivers of sorrow over your grave. O mo- 
 ther ! my dear mother ! do not push me away 
 from you ; do not sell your only daughter to be 
 the slave of a stranger ! " Useless tears ! vain 
 remonstrance ! The unnatural, relentless pa- 
 rent, shaking the beads in the face of her only 
 child, thrust her from her embraces ; and the 
 slave-dealer drove the agonized girl from the 
 place of her nativity, which she was to behold 
 no more. 
 
 Quitting Fullindushie, the day after our ar- 
 rival, in the course of the afternoon, we halted 
 at La Zumee, a small town with a good po- 
 pulation. On entering it I observed two men, 
 sitting under a date-tree, to which I instantly 
 walked up, and accosted the one, whom, being 
 neatly dressed, I conceived to be the chief; but 
 was surprised to find that the person I addressed 
 was a Kano merchant; and the individual by his 
 side, a dirty contemptible old fellow, dressed in 
 a filthy sheep skin, I was obliged to pay ray 
 respects to as the chief of La Zumee. Having 
 pointed out an empty hut for my use, he dis-
 
 THE RIVER COODOONIA. 117 
 
 appeared, but returned in two hours after with 
 an apology for not sending me provisions, say- 
 ing that his wives were at work in his gardens ; 
 and on their leaving them he would remember 
 me. Accordingly about three hours after the 
 chief had left me, the industrious ladies brought 
 me a couple of fowls, and tuah and rice, for 
 which I gave them a pair of scissors and fifty 
 needles ; the latter articles, like cowries, being the 
 circulating medium of the country. Surround- 
 ing the town is a remarkably broad and deep 
 ditch, on the outside of which the country is well 
 cultivated, and the soil appears to be rich and 
 highly productive. On the 10th we slept at 
 Coorokoo, a small walled town, and on the fol- 
 lowing day pitched our tent on the banks of a 
 large river called Coodoonia, (flowing swiftly to 
 the north-west, and entering, it is said, the 
 Niger nearFundah,) where we lay without food 
 till the next day. 
 
 Arising at an early hour in the morning, we 
 succeeded in crossing the water, which reached 
 to our chins, and immediately proceeded towards 
 Cuttup, where we arrived after three hours tra-
 
 118 CUTTUP. 
 
 veiling. Having heard on my route from Kano, 
 so many different accounts of Cuttup, its wealth, 
 population, and celebrated market, I was sur- 
 prised and disappointed on finding it to consist 
 of nearly five hundred small villages or hamlets, 
 almost adjoining each other; for I had been 
 given to understand, in the hyperbolical rela- 
 tions of the natives, that it was a magnificent 
 and powerful city, the wealth and prosperity of 
 its inhabitants rendering it of more importance 
 than any other in the interior. The villages 
 occupy an immense and beautiful plain, embel- 
 lished with a variety of elegant trees, amongst 
 which I observed, for the first time since I had 
 left Yariba, the plantain, the palm, and the 
 cocoa trees, all flourishing in vernal luxuriance. 
 The sun shone brightly upon the numerous 
 rural hamlets as I passed through them ; the 
 oxen and cows were chewing the cud in front 
 of the tidy looking habitations ; flocks of sheep 
 bleated from the inclosures ; fowls were clucking 
 in the lanes; small birds were careering in 
 the sky ; all bore an air of peace, loveliness,
 
 CUTTUP. 
 
 119 
 
 simplicity, and comfort, that delighted and 
 charmed me. 
 
 A considerable traffic is carried on at Cuttup, 
 in slaves and horned cattle : the latter of which 
 are bred by the Falatahs, (great numbers of 
 whom reside there for no other purpose,) who 
 sell or exchange them to the natives. Slaves, as 
 well as bullocks and sheep, are exposed in the 
 market, which is held daily ; and also red caps, 
 country cloth, gum, salt, goora nuts, trona, 
 beads, tobacco, rings, needles, cutlery articles ; 
 and honey, rice, milk, &c. People from the 
 most remote parts resort to the market in vast 
 numbers, to purchase these various articles of 
 merchandize; and return with them to their 
 respective countries. The chief or sultan as he 
 is called, being a very great man, I thought it 
 would not be amiss to give him a present worthy 
 his dignity and exalted station, and accordingly 
 took him eight yards of blue and scarlet damask, 
 prints of my own gracious sovereign and the 
 late duke of York, with several articles of minor 
 value, in return for which I received a sheep,
 
 120 QUEENS OF CUTTUP. 
 
 the humps of two bullocks, and stewed rice 
 sufficient to satisfy the appetites of at least fifty 
 hungry men. I was honoured by a visit from 
 ten of the king's wives two days after my arrival, 
 who expressing the most rapturous delight on 
 observing the gilt buttons on my jacket, I cut 
 them off, and presented them to their sable 
 majesties, who accepted them with a loud laugh 
 of thankfulness, and sticking them in their ears? 
 bade me farewell, and danced away. 
 
 Unlike the princes of Houssa, Nyffe, Borghoo, 
 &c. the king of Cuttup gives his wives unre- 
 stricted liberty, which they are never known to 
 abuse ; but in other respects they are treated in 
 much the same manner as the women of those 
 sovereigns. During my stay in Cuttup I was 
 never in want of a bullock's hump, (by far the 
 most delicate part of the animal, and frequently 
 weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds,) the 
 king invariably receiving as a tribute from the 
 butchers, the hump of every bullock they 
 slaughter; and one of these delicious oily ex- 
 crescences was brought me daily by a person 
 purposely despatched from the queens. Being
 
 FEMALE SUPERSTITION. 121 
 
 much in want of money, I ordered it to be pub- 
 lished in the market-place that I had needles 
 and beads for sale, which brought a number of 
 individuals into my hut, who purchased freely, 
 giving at least eighty per cent more for my 
 property than for the needles of the Arabs; but 
 whether the buyers actually fancied mine were 
 of more excellent quality than those they had 
 been in the habit of using, or whether it arose 
 from a spirit of curiosity to preserve something 
 belonging to so rare a creature as " the white 
 man," I was at a loss to conjecture. 
 
 An old woman came to me one afternoon, 
 sobbing aloud arid full of grief; telling me in a 
 tone of peculiar dolefulness, that all her little 
 savings, the accumulation of years of industry 
 and frugality, had been stolen from a hole in 
 her hut, in which she had concealed it a short 
 time before, by some of her dishonest neigh- 
 bours ; and entreating me to favour her with a 
 charm that would effectually prevent a recur- 
 rence of so ignominious an action in future. 
 Being ever willing to oblige the simple-hearted 
 Africans, and knowing also the profound vene- 
 
 VOL. II. G
 
 122 FEMALE SUPERSTITION. 
 
 ration in which a charm of mine would be held 
 by all ranks, I gave the poor woman a tea- 
 spoonful of common sweet oil, and urged her to 
 pour it on the money she intended hiding, stat- 
 ing, that if any person should dare to touch it 
 without her permission, he would instantly be 
 punished with suffering and death. I likewise 
 desired her to give the virtues of the charm as 
 extensive a circulation as possible amongst her ac- 
 quaintances, who would be so awed by the terrible 
 denunciation threatened by the charmer, that 
 fear itself would deter them from exercising their 
 pilfering propensities on her property. The 
 countenance of the venerable matron brightened 
 up at these expressions ; and substituting tears 
 of gratitude and pleasure for those of disap- 
 pointment and sorrow, she fell on her knees 
 before me, embraced my feet, and looking up 
 with a mingled expression of naivete and mater- 
 nal tenderness, poured out a full tide of thanks 
 and blessings on her protector, as she called me, 
 which made me blush for the deception I had 
 practised ; but I was consoled with the reflec- 
 tion, that in consequence of the invincible
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CUTTUP. 123 
 
 superstition the ignorance the unconquera- 
 ble prejudices of the people, and the fear in 
 which I was held, the very object aimed at by 
 me, would in all probability be fully accom- 
 plished. 
 
 On the 16th I paid my respects to the King 
 of Cuttup and his amiable, laughter-loving con- 
 sorts ; and then pursuing my journey to Fundah 
 in a more cheerful mood than I had felt for a 
 long time, arrived at a small town called Coogie, 
 in the middle of the afternoon. The journey, 
 however, was not of the most agreeable descrip- 
 tion ; the road at one moment winding over a 
 sharp, rugged precipice, and in the next through 
 pools of water and deceitful hollows ; we were 
 oftentimes up to the neck in filth and wet ; to 
 add to which, flies were innumerable, and so- 
 troublesome to the asses by their mischievous 
 propensity to bite and sting, that the irritated 
 animals, flinging off their riders in the mire, and 
 playing all manner of wanton pranks, detained 
 us a considerable time in the course of the fore- 
 noon. 
 
 The next day our journey was not a whit 
 
 G2
 
 124 DUNRORA. 
 
 more pleasant or comfortable. The rain fell in 
 torrents, and the water, roaring down the sides 
 of the mountains, rolled in one mighty stream, 
 with inconceivable impetuosity through the val- 
 lies, and carried every thing in its progress. This 
 continued for hours, when the thick clouds dis- 
 persing, the sun broke forth in all his majesty, 
 and the tumultuous elements were lulled into 
 peace. We crossed a stream, or river, called 
 Rary, in the course of the day, and slept at 
 Dungoora, a small town, in which we found 
 ourselves very hungry, but could get nothing at 
 all to eat. 
 
 We pursued our course on the 18th, and 
 arrived at Dunrora, a paltry town, containing 
 four thousand inhabitants, by six o'clock in the 
 evening. Our route, for some part of the journey, 
 lay over steep and craggy precipices, on the 
 summit of one of which the horse that carried 
 the portmanteaus struck himself against a sharp 
 piece of rock jutting up out of the narrow foot 
 path, and was precipitated a distance of eighty 
 yards, the ropes which were fastened to the 
 portmanteaus arresting his further progress. I
 
 ROAD ACCIDENT. 125 
 
 was filled with alarm on observing the helpless 
 little animal tumbling head over heels down the 
 frightful declivity, and expected at least that he 
 would have been dashed to pieces before reach- 
 ing the bottom ; but, some stunted trees luckily 
 growing on the side of the precipice, he became 
 entangled in the manner which has just been 
 related. We had been travelling about half an 
 hour, after leaving the spot on which the acci- 
 dent occurred, when reaching a yet more ele- 
 vated situation, an extensive and delightful 
 prospect suddenly burst on our view; and se- 
 veral days' journey might plainly be seen before 
 us. 
 
 I halted for a moment to gaze upon the fine 
 and noble scene around me, which rivalled in 
 magnificence and beauty the appearance of the 
 landscape from the Kong mountains. About 
 half a day's journey to the east stood a lofty hill, 
 at the foot of which lay the large city of Jacoba, 
 the metropolis of a kingdom of the same name, 
 to which, it will be recollected, I was invited 
 a short time before, by its monarch ; but not 
 having felt any inclination to depart a step
 
 126 CHIEF OF DUNRORA. 
 
 out of the direct road, had declined embrac- 
 ing the offer. Mahomet, my servant, declared 
 that a river, called Shar, or Sharra, deriving 
 its source from the lake Tschad, flows about 
 half a mile from Jacoba ; and that canoes can 
 be paddled from the said lake to the Niger at 
 any season of the year. The Sharra enters the 
 latter river at Fundah, when, in conjunction with 
 its sister streams, after laving its banks before 
 the towns of Cuttum Currifee, Gattoo, and 
 Jibboo, it joins the salt water ; but at what parti- 
 cular place, my informant was ignorant, never 
 having heard the word " Benin" till I men- 
 tioned it myself. Fundah lies due west of 
 Dunrora. 
 
 Not being aware that the chief of Dunrora 
 was so very eminent a character, my present to 
 him was of a trifling nature, consisting only of a 
 pair of scissors and a few needles, which were re- 
 turned to me shortly afterwards, with a contemp- 
 tuous message, importing that I would be pleased 
 to bestow it on a less exalted individual, or send 
 something of greater value. On demanding the 
 reason of such strange conduct from the people
 
 CHIEF OF DUNRORA. 127 
 
 who surrounded me, they answered that I had 
 insulted the dignity of themselves and their chief 
 by offering so insignificant a gift, he being a 
 mighty man ; but feeling no disposition to add 
 any thing to it, I dismissed the messenger 
 empty-handed to his mighty master.
 
 128 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 The Author overtaken at Dunrora by four armed horsemen from 
 Zeg Zeg, who force him to accompany them back to Zaria 
 His reflections Arrives in Zaria Treatment of the King 
 and his son towards the Author His entrance into Coulfo in 
 Nyffe Revisits Wow VVo.v The noted widow Zuma. 
 
 As I was loading my beasts to depart on the 
 morning of the 19th, I observed four armed 
 men ride up at full gallop to the residence of the 
 chief of Dunrora, whose horses were covered with 
 foam. The great man was no sooner made ac- 
 quainted with the nature of their errand, than he 
 came hastily to me, followed by a multitude of 
 people, and told me that I must instantly re- 
 turn with the horsemen to Zaria, the king of 
 Zeg Zeg having despatched them purposely to 
 escort me to that city. I was amazed thun- 
 derstruck. It was in vain to remonstrate with a
 
 ZEG ZEG MESSENGERS. 129 
 
 chief whom I had unwittingly offended : " If I 
 suffer you to proceed on your journey to Fun- 
 dah," said he, " I shall lose my head ; you must 
 submit." Entreaty, cajolery, and persuasion, were 
 alike useless; the orders of the armed men were 
 imperative ; they were backed by a thousand 
 bows and arrows ; and with a heavy heart and 
 cruel reflections, I turned the head of my horse 
 towards Cuttup. 
 
 Thus was I obliged, after seventeen days' pe- 
 rilous travelling from Kano, with a fair pros- 
 pect of reaching the celebrated Fundah in 
 twelve or thirteen more, from whence four days' 
 sail would bring me to the salt water a new 
 country opening before me, and my mind filled 
 with the most lively anticipations of solving the 
 geographical problem, as to whether the Ni- 
 ger actually joins the sea in that direction ; 
 thus was I obliged to abandon my fondest and 
 long-cherished expectations, and return to 
 Zeg Zeg ; thence to be transported the Lord 
 knew whither ! I felt depressed and miserable 
 at this sudden and unexpected change in my 
 
 G5
 
 J30 RETURN TO CUTTUP. 
 
 affairs ; and was really indifferent as to my future 
 proceedings; caring not whether I lived or died. 
 
 On our arrival in Cuttup, I was attacked 
 with dysentery, and, much against the inclination 
 of my escort, obliged to remain there four days, 
 suffering during that period, and indeed a long 
 while afterwards, more dreadfully than I can or 
 will describe. Finding me very tractable, and 
 too ill to make the least exertion, the horsemen 
 left me in Cuttup, and in their stead substituted 
 two homely, peaceable men, who proceeded with 
 me in a different direction, towards Zeg Zeg. 
 
 The following day the asses were excessively 
 troublesome through the attacks of forest flies, 
 myriads of which swarm around and alight in 
 great numbers on men and beasts. These insects 
 bit the asses so severely that blood streamed 
 copiously from their sides, and the animals 
 at length became so restive, that Pasko and Mo- 
 hammed, who rode on them, were frequently 
 thrown to the ground; besides which the loads 
 on their backs were seriously damaged by rea- 
 son of the asses rolling themselves in the earth, 
 and rubbing their backs against the trunks of
 
 CHIEF OF COKALO. 131 
 
 trees. We slept in our tent in the midst of a 
 large wood, surrounded by vast numbers of 
 bamboo, palm, and cocoa trees; and, although 
 very ill, I found myself considerably stronger. 
 
 At Cokalo, aBowchee village, where we arrived 
 on the 27th, the inhabitants were so poor, that 
 they sent us nothing but corn ; but the chief, in 
 honor of our arrival, made a fetish, and having 
 roasted a fatted dog, stewed a snake in oil and 
 water, and boiled a quantity of corn. He then in- 
 vited his people to a feast; and they partook of the 
 good things set before them with peculiar relish. 
 With a benevolence truly amiable, a small bowl 
 of the corn so prepared, enriched with a por- 
 tion of the reptile, and the liquid in which it 
 had been dressed, was brought me from the 
 chiefs table ; and, supposing it to be fish swim- 
 ming in oil, I ate a mouthful or two with a very 
 good appetite. It had, however, a peculiar, 
 although certainly not a disagreeable flavour 
 with it, and I carelessly asked a person standing 
 near, the name of the animal I was eating; but 
 on his assuring me that it was part of a land 
 fish, my appetite forsook me, and Pasko, who
 
 132 THE COODOONIA. 
 
 had been casting many a longing eye on the 
 delicate morsel, devoured the remainder with 
 looks of infinite delight, asserting that it 
 equalled in goodness the best dried ling he had 
 ever tasted. 
 
 On the following morning we arrived on the 
 banks of the river Coodoonia ; but there it was 
 broader, deeper, and more rapid than at Cut- 
 tup, insomuch that it was dangerous to cross it. 
 In attempting to convey, on a small bamboo 
 raft, one of the portmanteaus to the opposite 
 side of the stream, I found that it would not 
 bear its weight, and I snatched it from the sink- 
 ing frame, a few feet only from the margin of 
 the water. Being convinced, therefore, that it 
 would be dangerous to cross till the river be- 
 came shallower, I strenuously objected to the 
 wishes of my guard, (who almost dragged me 
 into it,) and insisted that I would risk neither 
 my person nor property on so fragile and dan- 
 gerous a conveyance as the one at the ferry. 
 The men, finding me resolute in my determina- 
 tion, poured out a volley of abuse, and threat- 
 ened in insolent terms to go immediately and
 
 CONDUCT OF THE GUIDES. 133 
 
 inform their sovereign of my refusal to accom- 
 pany them. I desired the fellows to give my 
 best respects to his majesty, and said that they 
 were at liberty to go as soon as they pleased ; 
 and they left me in great anger, cursing me as 
 they went, whilst I slowly returned with my 
 horses and asses to the village we had left an 
 hour before. 
 
 Whether the messengers did or did not go to 
 their king, I cannot tell, but they did not come 
 back till nearly a fortnight afterwards; and 
 during that time I was ill in the village, with 
 nothing to eat but boiled Indian corn : for I by 
 no means relished the huge luncheons of roasted 
 dogs which were served up twice in the day. 
 The inhabitants, who came in hundreds to see 
 me, like their countrymen, were destitute of 
 apparel of any kind, yet behaved with becoming 
 decency; and I never had cause, in a single in- 
 stance, to complain of the conduct of those sim- 
 ple-minded savages. The male portion of the 
 community seemed to have no occupation or em- 
 ployment whatever, spending the whole of their 
 time in lounging and loitering about their native
 
 134 CROSSING THE COODOON1A. 
 
 village ; whilst the women were more laudably 
 engaged in extracting an oil from a small black 
 seed and from the guinea-nut. 
 
 My escort returned on the llth July, and in 
 a tone of deep submission begged me to go along 
 with them, urging as a reason that the king of 
 Zeg Zeg would not give his permission to my 
 proceeding a single step, unless I visited first at 
 Zaria, the capital of his dominions. Accord- 
 ingly, our beasts were loaded, and I followed 
 them a second time to the banks of the Coo- 
 doonia, but found the river still too deep to 
 ford ; and one bamboo raft being insufficient to 
 bear a heavy article without sinking, I caused 
 two of them to be lashed together, which an- 
 swered the purpose extremely well. The port- 
 manteaus, &c. were first taken over, and I, 
 laying myself flat on my face, was next pushed 
 across by the two messengers, who swam behind, 
 and dexterously propelled the frame forward by 
 their hands and feet. The horses and asses 
 were not quite so fortunate, for the current 
 being strong and swift, they were borne by it 
 nearly a quarter of a mile down the stream, and
 
 ACCORAN. COWRO. 135 
 
 could scarcely stand from exhaustion for some 
 time after they were dragged out of the water. 
 Every thing being at length safely landed on 
 the opposite side, we left the borders of the 
 river, and pursuing a north-east course till sun- 
 set, pitched our tent on a rising ground, near 
 to a small stream. 
 
 Leaving our encampment at half-past six in 
 the morning, we halted outside Accoran, the 
 first walled town I had seen since quitting Nam- 
 maleek. The west end of it is defended by a 
 gigantic naked rock, and the other parts by a 
 mud wall and a spacious ditch. The inha- 
 bitants are Bowchees, but so miserably poor 
 that not even a single goat or fowl could be 
 procured in the town. We were again in mo- 
 tion on the 13th, and traversing an agreeable 
 country intersected with shallow streams, arrived 
 at Cowro in the afternoon. The palm and 
 cocoa, which had been so numerous since leaving 
 Dunrora, suddenly disappeared after we had 
 passed Accoran, and we saw no more of those 
 beautiful trees till we reached the kingdom of 
 Yariba. We remained at Cowro three days,
 
 136 MAKKAMEE. WAUTORAH. 
 
 the beasts and their riders being equally fa- 
 tigued ; and its chief, a noble looking Houssan, 
 behaved with the most studied civility towards 
 his guests. He was neatly clad in a white tobe, 
 trousers, and cap ; but he wore no sandals, and 
 his feet were stained with hennah. In return for 
 the chiefs kindness, and the excellent provisions 
 he supplied us with, I made him a present of 
 an old piece of carpeting, a scarlet cap, white 
 turban, and gilt chain, which he received with 
 extraordinary demonstrations of gratitude. 
 
 Having been ferried across a large river called 
 Makkamee, we entered a town of the same 
 name, situated at the distance of a quarter of a 
 mile from its banks, where we slept; and on 
 the following day, halting at Wautorah, a walled 
 town, I shot a few pigeons, which so terrified 
 the inhabitants that they did not approach me 
 for some hours afterwards. The morning of 
 the 19th was damp, foggy, and disagreeable ; 
 and Mahomet, who, with all his intelligence, 
 was an idle scoundrel, wishing to have a holi- 
 day, refused to proceed any further with me. 
 The messengers longed also for a similar in-
 
 EGGEBEE. 137 
 
 diligence, and fancying, no doubt, I should be 
 unable to go on without them, followed my 
 servant's example ; but, seeing through their 
 design, I immediately ordered Pasko and his 
 faithful wife to load the beasts, and so left the 
 town without them. Unluckily, a path leading 
 to the gardens of the inhabitants misled me : 
 but having discovered my error after an hour's 
 travelling, instead of returning by the beaten 
 track the way I had come, I crossed the country 
 in the direction I conceived the main road to 
 take. Owing, however, to the swampy nature of 
 the soil, I did not attain it till four o'clock in 
 the afternoon, when, after a journey of two 
 hours, the beasts becoming exhausted, I pitched 
 the tent by the road-side, and being greatly 
 distressed for want of water, slaked my thirst 
 with some, which, oozing from the fissures of 
 a neighbouring rock, made a gentle gurgling 
 noise, that drew my attention to the spot. 
 
 We struck our tent on the morning of the 
 20th, and crossing a large river flowing to the 
 southward at one o'clock, entered the spacious 
 and handsome town of Eggebee an hour after-
 
 138 EGGEBEE. 
 
 wards. Eggebee is governed by one of the 
 king of Zeg Zeg's principal fighting men ; and 
 for its excessive cleanliness, the tidiness of its 
 inhabitants, their prosperity and apparent hap- 
 piness, yields only to Wow Wow; and strongly 
 reminded me of my own far distant country. 
 It is situated on a fine, highly-cultivated plain ; 
 and nothing can be more agreeable than the 
 prospect of the country for miles round. I 
 have seen many charming landscapes in Africa 
 many which come nearer to my ideas of the 
 garden of Eden than any others I have be- 
 held but none so pleasingly, softly beautiful, 
 as that near Eggebee. The earth, clad in 
 simple and lovely magnificence, was embellished 
 with superb trees filled with singing birds 
 plots of Indian corn waved in the wind a 
 luxuriant vegetation sprung up at every step 
 every living thing revelled in enjoyment hap- 
 piness, peace, and plenty dwelt on the en- 
 chanting spot. It was evening when I took 
 a stroll a little way into the country a calm 
 cloudless, lovely evening. The earth had just 
 before been refreshed by a shower, and the sun
 
 EGGEBEE. 139 
 
 was setting in all his glory ; the neatly-attired 
 maidens of Eggebee, returning to the town 
 with calabashes of milk, sang as they went 
 along; birds of golden plumage fluttered on 
 the branches of the noble trees; insects of 
 dazzling brightness buzzed in the air ; the 
 stridulous notes of the grasshopper was heard 
 from the ground; smoke ascended in cir- 
 cling volumes to the skies from the dwellings 
 of the people; and the music of guitars and 
 dulcimers swelled from the town, all was 
 soothing, serene, heavenly. I was a sojourner 
 in a strange land; I thought on my country, 
 my kindred, my home, till melancholy reflec- 
 tions rushed upon my mind, and I longed to lay 
 down my burden of care and suffering, disap- 
 pointment, vexation, and sorrow. " I am un- 
 happy," I said to myself, " in all this loveli- 
 ness ; I have no portion in the pleasure that 
 surround sme. Why am I an Englishman, why 
 am I not rather an African? I should then 
 be simple as he, thoughtless as he, happy as 
 he." 
 
 The delightful town of Eggebee contains a po-
 
 140 EGGEBEE. 
 
 pulation of not less than fourteen thousand souls; 
 and its wall, forming a perfect square, measures 
 a mile each side. The inhabitants being sup- 
 plied with a fine reddish sand, (found in abund- 
 ance along the beach of a noble river, flowing 
 about a couple of miles from the town,) and a 
 kind of whitening, use these ingredients for the 
 purpose of cleansing their calabashes, and other 
 domestic articles ; and really it gives one a sen- 
 sible pleasure to observe the taste and regularity 
 with which these are arranged in the interior of 
 their dwellings, and the extreme whiteness of 
 the whole. The calabashes have figures of 
 horses, sheep, cows, &c. carved on them by per- 
 sons whose time is entirely devoted to this single 
 object, and who receive for the work on each 
 the sum of five cowries (less than a farthing 
 sterling). Instead of sleeping on the bare ground, 
 as is the case in every other town in the interior, 
 excepting Cuttup, the inhabitants of Eggebee 
 raise a kind of platform at a height of three 
 or four feet from the floor, supported on clay 
 pillars, on which they repose themselves during 
 the heat of the day, and at night. In the vi-
 
 KING OF ZEG ZEG. 
 
 HI 
 
 cinity of the town grew a great variety of beau- 
 tiful flowers, which opening in all their richness 
 to the rays of the sun, had a truly enchanting 
 appearance. Many of them were of the same 
 species as those which thrive so luxuriantly in 
 the interior of South Africa ; but the fragrance 
 emitted from the former is neither equally 
 pleasant nor equally powerful. 
 
 We left Eggebee on the morning of the 21st, 
 and the asses becoming exhausted, encamped in 
 a thick wood for the night. No village being 
 near at hand, we could obtain no provisions, 
 and consequently went supperless to bed. On 
 the following morning we entered the city of 
 Zaria, and took up our quarters with Abbel 
 Creme, Captain Clapperton's host and friend 
 on his journey to Kano. The king was in the 
 country, and did not see me on the day of my 
 arrival, but had left orders to have me well sup- 
 plied with provisions. His majesty returned in 
 the evening, and sent a messenger to say that he 
 should be glad to see me early on the following 
 morning ; accordingly at the time appointed I 
 visited him with a suitable present, which greatly
 
 142 THE KING'S SON. 
 
 delighted him ; and he took the opportunity of 
 telling me that it was entirely for my own sake 
 he had ordered me to be brought back; for, 
 said the king, " Sultan Bello is at variance 
 with the rulers of Fundah, and the latter would 
 have you beheaded the moment you set foot in 
 his dominions, because he well knows you have 
 been on intimate terms with his powerful anta- 
 gonist." I, of course, acquiesced in the opinion 
 of his Zeg Zeg majesty, praised to the skies the 
 charitable spirit that had influenced him, and 
 admired the milk of human kindness that flowed 
 in his veins ; this well-timed flattery pleased the 
 monarch as much as the present had done; 
 and in the course of the day I received a pre- 
 sent of two fine bullocks. Abbel Creme having 
 intimated that the king's eldest son was invested 
 with as much authority as his father, I waited 
 on him with a trifling gift ; on which occasion 
 he received me very graciously. The prince 
 was a remarkably fine young man, apparently 
 about twenty-two years of age, and beloved by 
 every one. As an especial mark of favour, I 
 was introduced into his seraglio to see his wives.
 
 PRESENT OF A WIFE. 143 
 
 They were fifty in number, and on my entrance 
 were all industriously employed in preparing 
 cotton and thread, and weaving it into cloth. 
 My intrusion was not remarked till the prince 
 said, " I have brought the Christian to see 
 you; " their eyes were immediately fixed upon 
 me at this expression, but on observing my 
 white skin, the bashful creatures, simultaneously 
 dropping their work, flew with all possible 
 haste into their coozies, and I saw no more of 
 them. In the afternoon the prince offered me a 
 really pleasing female named Aboudah (woman) 
 for a wife. I was almost frightened to death at 
 the very sound of wife, yet I accepted her with 
 the best grace I could assume, not only to avoid 
 offending my royal friend, which would inevita- 
 bly have been the case, if I had refused the well- 
 meant offer ; but also that I might at least have 
 the satisfaction of giving the poor creature her 
 freedom if I ever reached the sea-coast. 
 
 Mahomet came to me on the 23d, having just 
 arrived from Wautorah, where he had deserted 
 me, and entreated to be admitted again into 
 my service ; but the fellow had behaved so ill
 
 144 ARRIVAL AT GUARIE. 
 
 towards me, that I ordered him to go about his 
 business. I had seen enough of him to con- 
 vince me that no dependance whatever could 
 be placed on the fidelity of hired domestics; and 
 therefore purchased a slave in Zaria for seven 
 dollars, to supply Mahomet's place. The asses 
 being nearly worn out from our long and fa- 
 tiguing journey, and requiring at least twenty 
 days of rest to recruit their strength, 1 ex- 
 changed them for a strong Yariba pony, which, 
 with a pack bullock the king had given me 
 was fully adequate to undertake their work. 
 Both the monarch of Zeg Zeg and his son were 
 warring when we passed through their territo- 
 ries on our way to Kano ; and it was in order 
 to gratify their curiosity, I verily believe, that I 
 was so unfortunately stopped on the road to 
 Fundah. 
 
 I bade adieu to the king and prince on the 
 24th, and, risking every danger, pursued my 
 journey towards the dreaded Nyffe and Yariba. 
 
 Leaving the extensive empire of Houssa three 
 days after, we entered Guarie in the evening of 
 the 27th, and on the 29th pitched our tent out-
 
 CHIEF OF GUARI. 145 
 
 side of the capital, which is also called Guari. 
 Next day we found the river, near the city, 
 so much swollen, that I considered it would be 
 imprudent to attempt to cross ; and on the 31st 
 I waited on the king, governor, or whatever he 
 is, of Guari, with a present of light blue and 
 scarlet damask, and a smart red cap. He was a 
 man of venerable appearance. He wished to 
 know the reason of my having been so long on 
 the road from Kano, as merchants had informed 
 him that I had quitted that city some time be- 
 fore. I replied that I had attempted the road 
 to Fundah, it being the nearer way, but that 
 the King of Zeg Zeg had sent armed men after 
 me, who had compelled me to retrace my steps. 
 He observed that if 1 wished to proceed to that 
 kingdom then, he would send a messenger with me, 
 and he had no doubt, as the monarch of Fundah 
 was his particular friend, I should experience 
 every kindness at his hands. I expressed great 
 concern at being unable to embrace his gene- 
 rous proposal, having nothing good enough 
 left to give the King of Fundah ; and on that 
 
 VOL. II. H
 
 146 THE VIGER. 
 
 account feeling no particular wish to pass 
 through his dominions. 
 
 His Guari majesty had in his service an eu- 
 nuch, whose native town was not far from Fun- 
 dah; and, at his sovereign's instigation, the 
 man paid me a visit. In the course of conver- 
 sation with him, the eunuch told me that he was 
 born at Gibboo, a town situated on the banks 
 of the Niger, and about four days journey from 
 the city of Fundah. He had often proceeded 
 by water from the former to the latter place in 
 eight days, the river running five knots an hour 
 against him; but the voyage from Fundah to 
 Gibboo might easily be performed in three, or 
 at most four days. 
 
 I had no opportunity of ascertaining whether 
 the testimony of the eunuch was actually cor- 
 rect; as the reports of the natives, whether ow- 
 ing to the difficulty of expressing themselves so 
 as to be understood by a stranger, or from other 
 causes, vary considerably. I should conceive that 
 the former is the chief reason of this difficulty 
 so often complained of; and that in their rela- 
 tions of rivers and streams, the natives do not
 
 DEPARTURE FROM GUARI. 147 
 
 designedly deceive, but the interrogator, taking 
 no pains to obtain a clear idea of their mean- 
 ing, forms an opinion of his own which he fan- 
 cies approaches nearest to that which his in- 
 formants themselves entertain. 
 
 I fell in with a party of merchants in Guari, 
 who were so far on their journey to Coulfo, and 
 they begged me to accompany them to that city, 
 in order to repel the attacks of a desperate gang 
 of robbers, which they affirmed infested the 
 main road leading to Nyffe, and had committed 
 dreadful excesses. Fearing there might be 
 some foundation in this rumour, I waited for 
 the merchants three days ; but they not having 
 then paid the accustomed tribute, and not seeming 
 to have the slightest inclination to do so in a 
 hurry, I preferred risking the alleged dangers 
 in the path, to abiding longer at Guari. 
 
 On the 2d of August, therefore, I paid my 
 respects to the king, who offered a messen- 
 ger to accompany me to Womba ; but I declined 
 the offer, observing that I was not afraid to pro- 
 ceed with my own little party ; and on the next 
 morning left the city, without merchants, mes- 
 
 H2
 
 148 ANNOYANCE BY MOSQUITOES. 
 
 sengers, or guide. No robbers molested me; 
 nor did I see a single suspicious-looking fellow on 
 the path; and I reached Fullindushie, the second 
 town of that name, after a ride of nine hours. 
 
 The following day it rained incessantly, so 
 that we were unable to take down our tent, 
 and remained under it till the 5th, when we 
 continued our course, and encamped outside the 
 walled town of Kazzagebubba by four in the af- 
 ternoon. The chief apologised for sending us 
 nothing better than tuah and corn, on the 
 ground of its being market-day j and this tri- 
 fling present was acknowledged on my part by 
 a red cap and a pair of scissors, which made the 
 receiver proud, vain, and foolish. 
 
 Next morning we were again in motion, at an 
 early hour : and having crossed a large river, in 
 the afternoon, we pitched our tent in the centre 
 of a number of small, uninhabited grass huts, 
 erected as a temporary abode by a party of 
 merchants some months previously. In the 
 night myriads of mosquitoes annoyed us so 
 greatly that we were obliged to set fire to the 
 huts, in order to be rid of them.
 
 WOMBA. BEARI. 149 
 
 On the 7th we arrived at the spacious town of 
 Womba ; and, being sadly in want of money, I 
 despatched Jowdie, my slave, to the market 
 with needles to sell, which fetched fifteen cow- 
 ries each, and brought me 3,400 of them. The 
 chief, having declared the road to be dangerous, 
 would insist on sending an armed guide with 
 me ; and on the morning of the ninth we left 
 Womba in company ; halted on the south side 
 of a large river at six in the evening, and fixed 
 our tent in the midst of grass huts, similar to 
 those already mentioned ; but they harboured, 
 as on the former occasion, mosquitoes and ver- 
 min, so that we were under the necessity of burn- 
 ing them to the ground. 
 
 Hearing that a gaffle of merchants had been 
 plundered, and many of them slain, by free- 
 booters on the road I intended taking, instead 
 of journeying in a south-westerly direction to 
 Borghoo, I travelled by another route, and 
 halted at the town of Beari on the evening of 
 the 10th of August. As soon as one of the head- 
 men was aware of my approach to the king's 
 residence, he blew a blast " both loud and
 
 150 RAGADA. 
 
 shrill," on a long brass trumpet, in token of 
 welcome, the noise of which brought all the 
 principal inhabitants to the spot, who went 
 with me into the chief's hut, and seated them- 
 selves in a circle round that individual and my- 
 self. The chief was a fine handsome fellow, 
 apparently about fifty years of age, with a noble 
 expression of countenance and a commanding 
 air ; and the coozie into which I was introduced 
 was the largest I ever saw in Africa, being not 
 less, I should think, than eighty yards in cir- 
 cumference. The conversation was carried on 
 through the medium of a third person, (although 
 the chief himself perfectly understood what I 
 said,) which singular custom is, I believe, pecu- 
 liar to Beari, for I never observed a similar 
 practice at any other place. The town con- 
 tained about four thousand inhabitants, and was 
 surrounded by a high wall and ditch. 
 
 On the 12th we halted at the town of Ragada ; 
 and its chief, who was delighted to see me, gave 
 me a whole sheep, fowls, and a jar of gear (an 
 ale manufactured from Indian corn). It began 
 to rain a few minutes after we had quitted Ra-
 
 TROUBLESOME DRUNKARD. 151 
 
 gacla, and continued without ceasing till we 
 encamped a little to the westward of Wittesa, in 
 the afternoon ; and although the portmanteaus 
 were secured in a thick bullock's hide, every 
 thing they contained, with the exception of the 
 papers, became completely saturated with water. 
 In order to dry the tent, &c. we were obliged to 
 remain at our encampment the following day, 
 towards the evening of which a fellow came out- 
 side the pavilion with a calabash of bum, and 
 bawled out repeatedly in an insolent tone that I 
 should come out and drink with him. Being 
 busily engaged in packing up the articles that 
 had been put out to dry, I paid no attention at 
 first to the vociferous bellowing of the man; 
 but becoming at length impudent and daring, 
 he threatened to break into the tent, when, 
 thinking to intimidate him, I took a loaded pis- 
 tol and went out. 1 told the noisy scoundrel 
 that if he did not instantly quit the spot, and 
 stop his throat, I would shoot him without fur- 
 ther hesitation ; but this menace, instead of 
 terrifying him, only incensed him the more, and 
 flourishing a lance he had with him over his
 
 152 TROUBLESOME DRUNKARD. 
 
 head, as quick as lightning, he made a desperate 
 thrust at my breast ; but slipping a little on one 
 side, I parried the weapon with my hands when 
 within an inch of my body, and this fortunately 
 saved me from being run through. This was 
 carrying the jest a little too far, and striking the 
 ruffian violently with the but-end of my pistol, I 
 desired his companions, who stood near, and 
 were spectators of the whole affray, to take him 
 instantly from the tent, or I would fire at him 
 in earnest. The men accordingly dragged away 
 the intoxicated fellow to his home ; but he re- 
 turned the next morning, and throwing himself 
 at my feet, begged that I would not inform his 
 sovereign of the conduct he had displayed, for 
 that he should be beheaded if it came to the 
 king's ears. I promised to accede to his wishes, 
 on condition that he should never get tipsy 
 again ; whereat the man evinced the most lively 
 gratitude, and shed tears of joy. 
 
 We struck our tent on the morning of the 14th, 
 and passing through the ruins of a large town 
 called Kabojie, halted a little to the westward of 
 Dogo at three o'clock in the afternoon, where we
 
 COULFO. 153 
 
 slept. In the evening I was visited by several re- 
 spectable females of the neighbouring town, who 
 brought with them stewed beef and tuah, for 
 which I recompensed them with a few beads. 
 
 At two o'clock in the afternoon of the follow- 
 ing day, we entered the celebrated commercial 
 town of Coulfo, where I was met at the gates by 
 the female, in whose house we lodged in our 
 way to Kano, accompanied by every lady of note 
 in the town, who expressed the most lively joy 
 on seeing me again ; but when I informed them 
 that Captain Clapperton was no more, they 
 wept bitterly, and, wringing their hands, made 
 loud lamentations. Although the town was 
 filled with merchants, and her own house occu- 
 pied by some of them, my kind hostess turned 
 out her lodgers, and gave me the best apartment 
 in it. The merchants came from Cuttum 
 Kora, Youri and other provinces in Borghoo, 
 Yariba, Kano, and Soccatoo, to purchase Nyffe 
 cloth (which is decidedly the best in the interior), 
 iron bits and stirrups, brass ornaments for 
 saddles and bridles, brass ear-rings, &c. &c. 
 the traffic in which is carried on to a consider- 
 
 H5
 
 154. FEMALE GENTLENESS. 
 
 able extent. The good old chief sent me 
 fowls, tuah, milk, and bum ; my hostess gave 
 me a sheep ; and during my stay, this excellent 
 old lady supplied me with the choicest provisions 
 daily. 
 
 I take this opportunity of expressing my high 
 admiration of the amiable conduct of the African 
 females toward me ; in sickness and in health ; 
 in prosperity and in adversity their kindness 
 and affection were ever the same. They have 
 danced and sung with me in health, grieved 
 with me in sorrow, and shed tears of compas- 
 sion at the recital of my misfortunes. When 
 quite a boy, and suffering from fever in the 
 West Indies, women of the same race used to 
 take me in their arms, or on their knees, 
 sing and weep over me, and tell me not to die, 
 for that my mother would break her heart to 
 hear the news ; and pointing to the ocean, they 
 cheered my spirits, by saying that it laved the 
 shores of England, and would shortly bear me 
 on its bosom to my distant home. In fine, 
 through whatever region I have wandered, 
 whether slave or free, I have invariably found
 
 DEPARTURE FROM COULFO. 155 
 
 a chord of tenderness and trembling pity to vi- 
 brate in the breast of an African woman ; a spi- 
 rit ever alive to soothe my sorrows and com- 
 passionate my afflictions ; and I never in my 
 life knew one of them to bestow on me a single 
 unpleasant look or angry word. 
 
 I abode in Coulfo five days, and finding my 
 Yariba pony, and the bullock the King of Zeg 
 Zeg had given me, unfit to bear the fatigues of 
 a journey to the sea coast, I exchanged the 
 latter, with an old Turkish jacket, for a couple 
 of asses ; but, owing to its being in so miserable 
 a condition, no purchaser could be found for 
 the pony, although I offered to sell it for a 
 dollar. On the morning preceding my departure, 
 poor little Boussa Jack, the faithful companion 
 of my wanderings, was discovered lying dead 
 outside my hut, having crawled from its stable, 
 in the night, to die as near to its master as pos- 
 sible. Bidding my generous hostess an affec- 
 tionate adieu, I paid my respects to the chief, 
 and left Coulfo in high spirits and health, on 
 the morning of the 20th of August ; and halted 
 at Majonka in the afternoon. In the town I
 
 156 A MISTAKE. 
 
 met with a gaffle of merchants on their way to 
 Gonja, to purchase the kola, or goora nut. Being 
 unable to procure any kind of provisions in the 
 place, I took my gun, and shot a heron, not 
 being aware that this, being a fetish bird, is 
 allowed only to be eaten by the chiefs ; but, on 
 being made acquainted with the circumstance, 
 one of the principal inhabitants, came to my 
 house with a loaded musket, and, using the 
 most abusive language, threatened to dis- 
 charge it in my face. Not at all daunted, I 
 dared him to fire; and hinted that I should take 
 the liberty of acquainting the King of Nyffe 
 with such unwarrantable behaviour, when the 
 fellow stammered out an apology, and sneaked 
 off. Early on the following morning the man 
 returned to my dwelling, and in a tone of hu- 
 miliation, begged me not to carry my menace 
 into execution, (which, indeed, I had no inten- 
 tion of doing,) and excused the violence of his 
 conduct, on the plea of having swallowed too 
 large a quantity of bum the preceding day. At 
 six o'clock we continued our route, halting at 
 twelve at noon at Dalho, on the banks of the
 
 BADNESS OF THE ROADS. 157 
 
 river Quontakora, which having crossed with 
 some difficulty, we journeyed till sun-set, and 
 reached the foot of a hill, five miles to the 
 eastward of the Niger, where we pitched our 
 tent, and slept. We arrived on the banks of 
 that river on the following day, and found it to 
 be at least a hundred yards broader than it 
 was on our way to Soccatoo ; and after our hal- 
 looing a thousand times, the boatman on the 
 opposite side came to fetch us. My poor slave, 
 Jowdie, who had never seen so large a body of 
 water before, became terribly agitated at the 
 bare thoughts of crossing it ; but getting him at 
 last, after much persuasion, into the canoe, I 
 found him overpowered with fear, and he fainted 
 the moment he set his foot on terra firma. We 
 landed at Inguazhilligie, where the principal in- 
 habitants pressed us to remain ; but, having no 
 presents to offer, I declined stopping, and ex- 
 pecting to reach a village in the evening, made 
 all possible haste to get out of the town. The 
 path lying through swampy ground, was horribly 
 bad, and the asses could only travel two miles 
 an hour ; so that at six, p. m., the beasts being
 
 158 REGULATION IN TRAVELLING. 
 
 completely knocked up, we were obliged to pitch 
 our tent in the midst of a wild, dismal, uncul- 
 tivated waste. In these journeyings Pasko 
 headed the party; Aboudah, Joudie, and Pas- 
 ko's wife then followed with the baggage, whilst 
 I myself brought up the rear; by which arrange- 
 ment the whole of them were under my own 
 eye, and I could watch all their motions. After 
 erecting the tent, and previously to retiring to 
 rest, it was my usual custom to read aloud, 
 from a book of common prayer, some portion 
 of its contents, making the servants sit around me 
 in a circle. By this pleasing exercise I felt 
 unusual calmness and serenity steal over my 
 mind ; and I slept as soundly in the bosom of 
 awful woods, amidst the bowlings of the tem- 
 pest and the pelting of the storm the yell of 
 the tiger and the hollow roar of the crocodile as 
 if I had been reposing on a bed of down in my 
 own country. 
 
 The roads were equally bad on the 23d, and 
 the rain, which fell heavily and incessantly, 
 drenched us to the skin ; so that about the 
 middle of the day we were obliged to encamp in
 
 WOW WOW RE-VISITED. 159 
 
 a small village, where we attempted to sleep. 
 The poor beasts had stuck in the bogs several 
 times in the morning, on each of which occasions 
 they were dragged from their unpleasant situa- 
 tion with much difficulty, and retarded our 
 movements considerably. None of the inhabit- 
 ants of the village understanding the Houssa 
 language, I entered a hut, the door of which 
 was open, and presenting the inmates with a 
 few beads, made them comprehend by signs and 
 gestures, that we were wearied and hungry, 
 when one lean fowl alone could be procured; 
 but having the good fortune to shoot a guinea- 
 fowl, we made a tolerable supper, and went 
 contentedly to rest. 
 
 A ride of eight hours on the following day 
 brought us to the celebrated city of Wow Wow, 
 the birth place of Mohammed, the residence of 
 the lovely Zuma, and the scene of our adven- 
 tures with those two illustrious characters on our 
 former journey into the interior. I had taken 
 two days and a half on the road from In- 
 guazhilligee. while in the dry season we had done 
 it with ease in one.
 
 160 KTNG MOHAMMED. 
 
 The day after my arrival I visited the king 
 with a present of scarlet and blue damask, &c. 
 and Mohammed, although he was overjoyed to 
 see me at first, was greatly distressed, and wept 
 much on hearing of the death of Captain Clap- 
 perton in Soccatoo. He wondered at my being 
 alive after visiting the Falatah country, the na- 
 tives of which, he maintained, were the most 
 barbarous and blood-thirsty in the world ; and 
 said moreover, that I was certainly one of God's 
 own favorites, or I never could have escaped so 
 easily from their clutches. I was obliged to 
 comply with the monarch's request, which in- 
 deed was tantamount to a command, to abide at 
 Wow Wow a few days, in order to clean seven 
 muskets and three pistols, which he afterwards 
 told me belonged to the white men who were 
 drowned in the Quorra. They had the Tower 
 mark on them, and were in excellent condition. 
 Having obtained permission of Mohammed to 
 visit the amiable king and queen of Boussa, 
 whose behaviour to me, it will be recollected was 
 so inexpressibly kind, after my escaping from 
 my confinement in the Zuma elopement affair,
 
 A NATIVE CUSTOM. 161 
 
 I took old Pasko with me, and left Wow Wow 
 early in the morning of the 27th; but after 
 journeying till six in the evening, we had only 
 got half-way to the city, in consequence of bogs 
 and swamps, which overspread the country. 
 Our horses were oftentimes up to the saddles in 
 mire and wet, and Pasko's legs being excessively 
 short, the exertions of his animal to extricate 
 himself threw him from its back into the filth 
 on the path, so that the old man was covered 
 with dirt. The remaining part of the journey 
 appearing yet more difficult and dangerous, I 
 found it impossible to go on; and being di- 
 rected by a glimmering light to a solitary hut 
 embosomed in trees, we slept there, and returned 
 to Wow W^ow on the following day. 
 
 The king sent me a goat, cut up into small 
 pieces, and a large bowl of tuah, en the 29th, in 
 order to make a sadacco for my lamented mas- 
 ter; a ceremony common to many places in the 
 interior, on the decease of any person of conse- 
 quence. The bowl of tuah and the goat's flesh 
 were forwarded to a mallam, who repeated a short
 
 162 MOHAMMED'S SUPERSTITION. 
 
 prayer over them; but before this ceremony 
 could be performed, it being necessary to place 
 a gold or silver coin, or in lieu thereof, an arti- 
 cle made of either of those metals, on the top of 
 the bowl, I put a silver pencil-case on the tuah, 
 which was never returned me. As soon as the 
 prayer had been offered up, the consecrated ar- 
 ticles were immediately forwarded to me, and 
 hundreds of the Wow Wownese flocked to my 
 habitation to show their respect for the memory 
 of the deceased, by partaking of the goat's flesh 
 and tuah, each person ejaculating with fervor, 
 on conveying the food to his lips, " God send 
 the Christian safe to heaven ! " It is unnecessary 
 to say, that the bowl was soon emptied of its 
 contents. 
 
 The day after the celebration of this mournful 
 rite, having finished cleaning the fire-arms of the 
 venerable Mohammed, I requested his permis- 
 sion to leave Wow Wow; but the king, smiling, 
 told me that not half my business was done; 
 for that he wanted to have six charms, which I 
 alone could write. " The charms," said the
 
 MOHAMMED'S SUPERSTITION. 163 
 
 learned Moslem, " will be worn round my 
 waist, and are to possess the following virtues : 
 1st charm: if my enemies think of making war 
 on me, it shall cause them to forget to carry 
 such an intention into effect. 2d. If my adver- 
 saries be on their way to Wow Wow for the 
 purpose of warring, it shall cause them to be 
 dismayed and turn back. 3d. If they discharge 
 their arrows at my people when close to the city 
 walls, the province of this charm shall be to 
 make them rebound in their own faces, and 
 wound them. Let the fourth prevent my guns 
 from bursting ; and the fifth hinder the persons 
 that hold them from receiving an injury, should 
 they by any accident break when loaded. The 
 sixth and last charm is to make me the happiest 
 and most successful of men.'* I protested my 
 inability to comply with his wishes, on the 
 ground of ignorance ; but the old man, wisely 
 shaking his cranium, said with a significant look, 
 " Nay, Christian, don't be so modest ; I know 
 you have the power; it is useless to attempt to 
 deceive me ; let me see how long it will be be- 
 fore you produce them." On the following
 
 164 MOHAMMED'S SUPERSTITION. 
 
 day, therefore, I took my charms to the super- 
 stitious monarch of Wow Wow, on which I had 
 written scraps of old English ballads ; and the 
 prince was so much pleased with my civility, 
 that he paid me a thousand compliments, and I 
 left him in the best humour in the world. Thus 
 was I obliged in this, as well as in former in- 
 stances, certainly against my inclination, to copy 
 the example the Arabs had set me, of imposing 
 upon the ignorance and superstition of the na- 
 tives, of which I have complained so fre- 
 quently. It was utterly useless to deny them so 
 singular a favour on the plea of incapacity or 
 ignorance ; for on urging either of these reasons, 
 it was not unusual for them to say, " The white 
 man is ill-natured ; he is no good man ; " and 
 run away with tears in their eyes. 
 
 Not satisfied with all I had done for him, 
 Mohammed still wished to detain me in Wow 
 Wow, and very reluctantly gave me permission 
 to depart on the 3d of September. He also 
 insisted on my selling or giving him my gun 
 and pistols, the only fire-arms that were left 
 me. I endeavoured in vain to coax the old gen-
 
 MOHAMMED'S MESSAGE. 165 
 
 tleman to waive his pretensions ; and finding 
 him firm in his determination of having the gun, 
 and at least one of the pistols, I sent them to 
 his residence, leaving it entirely to his genero- 
 sity to pay me what he thought proper. The 
 liberal-minded king shortly after returned four 
 thousand cowries (worth little more than a dol- 
 lar) as a sufficient equivalent for the gun and 
 pistol ; but on the ensuing day made me a pre- 
 sent of a beautiful little mare. 
 
 The 3d of September being the day appointed 
 for my departure, the old king sent a message 
 for me to visit him at an early hour ; on which 
 occasion he wrung from me a promise to return 
 to Wow Wow in a twelvemonth. He displayed 
 before me various patterns of silk to bring with 
 me from England, for a tobe he was to wear; 
 and said, as I was leaving the apartment, " Tell 
 your countrymen, Christian, that they have my 
 permission to come here and build a town, and 
 trade up and down the Quorra ; we know now 
 that you are good men ; but we did not think so 
 when the white men, who were drowned before
 
 166 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 Boussa, visited the country." He had kept me 
 chatting with him on indifferent subjects till 
 nine o'clock, when we shook hands, and the old 
 man followed me with his eyes till I was out of 
 sight. On reaching my dwelling, I found a 
 party of merchants, (whom the kind-hearted Mo- 
 hammed had, unknown to me, detained in Wow 
 Wow on purpose that I might accompany them, ) 
 anxiously waiting my appearance. They were 
 to go to Khiama; and the road to that kingdom 
 being infested with gangs of robbers, I em- 
 braced the opportunity with pleasure, and we 
 left the city in company about ten o'clock in the 
 morning. 
 
 THE WTDOW ZUMA. 
 
 On approaching Wow Wow, I had not been 
 able to avoid feeling the liveliest emotions of de- 
 light. We had left it under peculiar circum- 
 stances ; and the generous, warm-hearted, beau- 
 teous Zuma, had often crossed my thoughts ! I 
 fondly indulged the hopes of seeing that lady 
 again, after so long an absence; and notwithstand- 
 ing my refusal to accept of her heart and person,
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 167 
 
 I had so managed this delicate affair as not to for- 
 feit her esteem : besides which, I had never 
 spoken slightingly of her person ; I had never 
 ridiculed her pretensions to beauty, and therefore 
 I knew well enough that Zuma could not hate 
 me. It was sweet, particularly in Africa, to know, 
 
 "There was an eye would mark 
 
 My coming, and look brighter when I came ;" 
 
 and all circumstances considered, I was well 
 and light of heart on drawing near to the beau- 
 tiful city of Wow Wow. On the night of my 
 arrival, I was serenaded with the wild music of 
 a guitar, accompanied by a female voice. Cu- 
 riosity induced me to listen to its import, when 
 I soon learnt that the singer was a slave from 
 my sable inamorata, and sent by her mistress 
 to congratulate me on my arrival. As soon as 
 I ascertained that this was really the case, I im- 
 mediately hailed the young woman, and admit- 
 ted her into my dwelling. She came, she said, 
 to welcome me back to Wow W^ow, on her mis- 
 tress's account, and to express the widow's sor- 
 row for the decease of Captain Clapperton. But 
 what was of most consequence, and what gave
 
 168 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 me infinite concern, was the news that the ami- 
 able and impassioned Zuma was herself in 
 " durance vile," by command of the perfidious 
 Mohammed, who, fearful of the consequences 
 of the expected rencontre, had filled and sur- 
 rounded her dwelling with soldiers, kept a 
 watch over her "thousand" slaves, and forbid- 
 den either the lady or her domestics to main- 
 tain the slightest intercourse with the " Little 
 Christian." This unexpected information moved 
 me. to compassion; and desiring the female 
 slave, who had contrived to elude the vigilance 
 of her guardians, and steal unobserved to my 
 hut, to express to her unfortunate mistress my 
 deep regret at her predicament, I dismissed the 
 young woman, and returned to my couch to 
 reflect on the pitiable condition of the gentle 
 Zuma, whose heart, 1 had no doubt, yet 
 throbbed with tenderness for her former love ! 
 
 On the two succeeding nights, and indeed every 
 other that I spent at Wow Wow, I was visited 
 about the midnight hour by the girl above- 
 mentioned, with her female companions, who 
 brought presents of honey, &,c. from the widow,
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 169 
 
 and sung, or rather chanted to rne at different 
 times, the following melancholy tale of her mis- 
 tress's feelings and misfortunes, from the period 
 of my leaving her to the time of my return. 
 The sense of their strains is maintained through- 
 out, with the strictest regard to truth : 
 
 THE SONG OF ZUMA*S SLAVES. 
 
 Scarce, Christian, hadst thou left Wow Wow- 
 When Zuma's tears began to flow ; 
 
 They've flowed since, they are flowing now, 
 In copious streams of living woe ; 
 
 And, shunning pleasure, suffering pain, 
 
 She wept, and wore Love's silken chain. 
 
 A sadness prey'd upon her mind, 
 A gloom o'erspread her lovely face, 
 
 As, wandering far and unconfined, 
 
 She summon'd up each matchless grace 
 
 That charm'd her once, when white man came, 
 
 Her warm heart fluttering at his name. 
 
 Oft loitering near the sounding grove, 
 Or hearkening to the Quorra's roar, 
 
 She told the listening air her love, 
 And feelings never known before ; 
 
 The listening air received her grief, 
 
 But bore it to the yellow leaf. 
 
 VOL. II. I
 
 170 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 The fire that gleam'd in her dark eye, 
 The heav'n that in her gesture dwelt, 
 
 The smile she wore when thou wast nigh, 
 (Which one might think would Alia melt, ) 
 
 All passed away, and envious Care 
 
 Usurp'd the features of the fair. 
 
 Her teeth soon lost their roseate hue, 
 No longer shone her feet with yellow, 
 
 Her hair, which rivall'd heaven's own blue, 
 Turn'd softly grey as that of Lello ; * 
 
 The goora nut had ceased to charm, 
 
 And grateful pitto scarce could warm. 
 
 Thus mistress felt, whilst far away 
 
 The cruel white-faced stranger stray'd ; 
 
 Nor could he hear her tender lay, 
 Which every chord of woe betray'd. 
 
 Alas ! her melancholy wails 
 
 Were plaintive as the crocodile's. 
 
 But when she learnt that thou wast near, 
 She flung oft'suddenly her gloom, 
 
 Colour'd afresh her clustering hair, 
 And bade her teeth their red resume ,- 
 
 And frolicsome and full of glee, 
 
 Who was so glad, so gay as she ? 
 
 * A venerable man in Wow Wow, whose sable locks had changed 
 to grey, a sure sign, amongst the Africans, either of severe distress 
 or extreme old age.
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 171 
 
 To add to her inspiring bliss, 
 
 Withptteo Zuma then got mellow; 
 
 But oh ! that old Mohammed is 
 A wicked, most tyrannic fellow ; 
 
 For, all her hope, and all her joy, 
 
 He bade his soldiers to destroy. 
 
 They rush'd into her house, and bound 
 The hapless fair with thongs of leather ; 
 
 Forbade her slaves to quit the ground, 
 And tied them hand and foot together. 
 
 Thus mistress far'd, and all for thee, 
 
 Unkind Nasarah Curramee.* 
 
 But, Christian, Zuma sends her love, 
 As warm as when at first ye met : 
 
 Like that which dwells within the dove, 
 It lasted, and will linger yet. 
 
 Her deep-drawn sighs and melting tears, 
 
 Will but increase with growing years. 
 
 Yet, wishing thou wilt sometimes tell 
 Of her, when thou art far away, 
 
 Ere Zuma breathes a last farewell, 
 To Alia she will warmly pray, 
 
 To love, and bless, and prosper thee, 
 
 Blue-eyed Nasarah Curramee ! 
 
 * Nasarah Curramee (Little Christian), an appellation by 
 which I was generally known in Africa, on account of my diminu- 
 tive stature 
 
 T 2
 
 172 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 Thus sang the maidens of the graceful Zuma; 
 and I was not a little grieved to find myself the 
 cause ofunhappiness, and of the infliction of cor- 
 poral punishment on so fair a creature, for she 
 was still fresh, and beautiful, and full of lovely 
 life ! I sent her a trifling present to keep in re- 
 membrance of " the white-fac'd stranger ; " but 
 all my coaxing could not melt the inflexible, the 
 iron-hearted Mohammed to obtain an interview 
 with her ; that sage monarch fearing that a ge- 
 neral rebellion would be the consequence of 
 such a meeting. He well knew that when love 
 was in the question, the energetic widow was not 
 mistress of her own actions ; whilst her power, 
 her courage, her generosity, and above all, her 
 bulk and personal charms, would induce thou- 
 sands to rally round her standard, and commit 
 all sorts of excesses. It was therefore a politic, 
 although certainly a most ungallant measure on 
 the part of the powerful prince of Wow Wow, 
 to confine a lady so unfeelingly ; a lady whose 
 meek, equable disposition, and amiable spirit, 
 had displayed themselves in numberless in- 
 stances ! a lady, whose kindness and affection
 
 WIDOW ZCJMA. 173 
 
 for the white men was so strikingly apparent. 
 Nevertheless Mohammed comforted me by pro- 
 mising to liberate her as soon as I had reached 
 a day's journey from the city. 
 
 I had scarcely left the walls of the town, 
 when a young woman, panting and out of breath, 
 overtook me. I immediately recognized her as 
 being my old acquaintance, the favourite and 
 confidential slave of the widow ; but before I 
 had time to inquire the nature of her errand, 
 she had produced two calabashes of honey, 
 which her compassionate mistress had sent by 
 way of refreshment on my journey. I was, 
 however, greatly shocked when she told me it was 
 Zuma's desire, since fate had so ordered it, that 
 she could never be united to me, that I would, on 
 my return to my own country, let the Christ- 
 ians understand her extreme tenderness for 
 white men in general, and that if any one had 
 courage and enterprize enough to undertake a 
 journey to Wow Wow, she would immediately 
 make him her husband, depose old Mohammed, 
 and proclaim her spouse king in his stead. 
 This urgent bidding, although of course it
 
 174 WIDOW ZUMA. 
 
 excessively mortified my vanity at the time, I 
 promised to do; and I hereby redeem the pledge 
 I then made ! In addition to which I would 
 observe that Wow Wow is, without exception, 
 the cleanest, healthiest, and most agreeable city 
 of any in the interior, and one in which an Eng- 
 lishman, if he could contrive to forget his country 
 and friends, might live very happily ; he might 
 spend his time in hunting wild beasts and ante- 
 lopes, sporting, dancing with the beauties of 
 Africa, feasting, carousing, and fishing ; he 
 might take thousands of delightful excursions on 
 the mysterious Quorra keep race-horses, and 
 in fine live like an absolute prince, with the sa- 
 tisfaction, in dying, of transmitting to his poste- 
 rity a kingdom, insignificant indeed as to its 
 population or extent, but withal rich, brave, 
 compact, and flourishing. This, J am per- 
 suaded, (if an Englishman could be found pos- 
 sessing the necessary qualifications to fill the 
 throne,) would be more effectual in checking the 
 traffic in human beings than the united force of 
 all the naval powers in the world. Yet I would 
 entreat that individual, whoever he might be, to
 
 WIDOW ZUMA. 175 
 
 be merciful to the superstitious Mohammed 
 whose years render him venerable his virtues 
 amiable, and who, with the exception of being 
 rather harsh to the romantic Zuma, is as inno- 
 cent as a child ; besides that he was kind to En- 
 glishmen, and above all gave me a little mare !
 
 176 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 Progress of the route. The Author, whilst crossing a river, in the 
 narrowly escapes drowning. Arrival at Khiama. Eccentric 
 conduct of the Prince of that State. Anecdote of his messen- 
 ger. Pasko's thieving propensities turned to account. The 
 Author enters Katunga, the capital of Yariba. His reception 
 by Mansolah, its monarch. Song of five hundred of his wives. 
 Fetish-hut. 
 
 As I have before observed, it was on the 
 morning of the 3d of September, that, accom- 
 panied by a gaffle of merchants, I left Wow 
 Wow. We crossed the river Auli at noon, 
 after much difficulty, and encamped on the south 
 bank, shortly after which I was visited by the 
 mallam of the traders, who gave me some in- 
 formation respecting Mr. Park, which is embo- 
 died in my account of the death of that enter- 
 prising traveller (off the city ofBoussa) in a pre- 
 ceding part of this narrative, The merchants
 
 AUTHOR'S PROGRESS. 177 
 
 not being ready to start as early as I could wish 
 the next morning, we left them behind, and, 
 journeying at an easy rate, attained a convenient 
 spot in the heart of a solitary wood, where we 
 pitched our tent. At this time I lived like an 
 eastern prince, generally subsisting on the best 
 the country afforded ; and, towards evening, 
 when I felt fatigued, Aboudah used to bathe my 
 temples with the juice of limes, and after wash- 
 ing my feet, either sing or fan me to sleep ! 
 
 On the 5th, one of the asses became so ill on 
 the road, that we were obliged, in a measure, to 
 drag him to the town of Gorkie, our halting 
 place, where, much against my inclination, I 
 left him to his fate. The poor animal, looking 
 up into my face, seemed to reproach me for my 
 cruelty, and, when he saw his companion going 
 away without him, he strove to raise himself on 
 his legs ; but, not having sufficient strength, fell 
 down again, and brayed loud and piteously, 
 which was returned by his long-eared associate 
 in a strain of sympathy that made Jowdie, who 
 attended them, shed a whole flood of tears. On 
 the morning of the 6th, whilst crossing a river, 
 i 5
 
 178 THUNDER STORM. 
 
 apparently very shallow, my horse unexpectedly 
 sunk several feet into a kind of soft mud; and, his 
 legs becoming entangled in the roots of some 
 trees lying at the bottom, the beast fell on his side, 
 and, plunging violently, threw me off the saddle. 
 My foot was unfortunately twisted in the leather 
 stirrups, and I was therefore unable to disengage 
 it for several seconds, during which time my head 
 being under water, I was nearly suffocated. 
 Freeing myself, at length, from the stirrup, I 
 reached the other side of the stream, greatly ex- 
 hausted, and, with the assistance of my servants, 
 succeeded in extricating the horse also from his 
 no less unpleasant situation. I was afterwards in- 
 formed at Khiama, by a merchant, that I might 
 think myself eminently fortunate in having es- 
 caped so easily, as large crocodiles, in great 
 numbers, infested the river. 
 
 After sunset on the following day we arrived 
 at Yarro, shortly after which a thunder-storm 
 visited the town with terrific violence, overthrow- 
 ing houses, tearing up large trees by the roots, 
 &c. and continued for three hours, when the tem- 
 pest was suddenly appeased, and the weather be-
 
 KING OP KHIAMA. 179 
 
 came awfully still and calm. The thunder had 
 been fearfully loud, shaking the earth on which our 
 tent was fixed : and large masses of fire, whirled 
 across the heavens, added not a little of solemn 
 grandeur to this scene of devastation and terror. 
 On the 8th we were unable to proceed on ac- 
 count of the rain that fell ; but next morning 
 struck our tent, and at noon entered the city of 
 Khiama. 
 
 Immediately on my arrival I paid my re- 
 spects to Yarro, the king; but as soon as he 
 saw me, his majesty asked how I dared to come 
 into Khiama without having previously informed 
 him of my approach. I answered, that I had 
 despatched one of his own messengers three or 
 four days before to acquaint him of the fact, 
 and thought nothing more was required on my 
 part to insure me a warm reception. " That 
 is ot no consequence," rejoined the monarch, 
 "you should have sent another this morning. 
 Get on horseback instantly, and return an hour 
 and half's journey, the way you came. On arriv- 
 ing there, despatch one of your own people to 
 acquaint me with the circumstance, and I will
 
 180 YARRO, 
 
 order a sufficient escort to conduct you into the 
 city in a manner suitable to your rank and re- 
 spectability." I was in the act of complying 
 with this singular request, when Yarro bawled 
 after me " I forgive you this time, Christian ; 
 but never be so remiss again." The king had 
 been informed, a day or two before, of the de- 
 cease of Capt. Clapperton, and appeared much 
 affected on that account in my presence, " but," 
 said he, abruptly, " What business had you 
 with the Falatahs ? They behaved roughly to you, 
 I understand, but surely you had no need to 
 visit Soccatoo." I replied, that we were at Kano, 
 on our way to Bornou, when Sultan Bello 
 sent for us, and that we were obliged, in con- 
 sequence, to abandon our intentions, and pro- 
 ceed with the messengers to their sovereign. 
 Yarro then offered to conduct me safely to Bor- 
 nou, saying that he was tributary to the sheikh 
 of that country ; but I replied that Bello having 
 robbed me of all the presents intended for that 
 monarch, it would be useless for me to think of 
 travelling so far, with no gifts to offer on attain- 
 ing the end of my journey ; and, therefore, it
 
 YARRO. 181 
 
 would be superfluous to put him to any trouble 
 or expense on my account. My present to the 
 king consisted of a quantity of damask and silk, 
 a red cap, silk sword-sash, two pairs of scissors, 
 and a hundred needles. I likewise gave him 
 my old tent, which had become full of holes, and 
 was quite useless to me. 
 
 Yarro is an eccentric and facetious character ; 
 but without exception the finest and handsomest 
 man I ever saw in Africa, or perhaps in any 
 other country. Bello, Sultan of the Falatahs, 
 was certainly a noble looking fellow, but not at 
 all equal, either in regularity of features, ele- 
 gance of form, or impressive dignity of manner 
 and appearance, to the sable monarch of Khiama. 
 We remained in the city five days, the conduct 
 of the queens, during the whole of the time, 
 being as generous and kind as that of their be- 
 nevolent countrywomen, of whom I have so 
 often spoken; they supplied our wants daily, 
 and our wishes were no sooner made known than 
 they were instantly complied with ; so amiable 
 and so praiseworthy are the actions of Afri- 
 can ladies. Yarro entertains the whimsical no-
 
 182 YARRO'S WIVES. 
 
 tion, that as females came into the world naked, 
 naked they ought to live in it till their death, 
 he does not, however, extend the same opinion 
 to his own sex. " Man," said the king, " is 
 the nobler animal, and wears clothing in token 
 of his superiority over the weaker part of the 
 creation;" and, in accordance with this sin- 
 gular doctrine, none of his wives ever dare to 
 approach his presence with any other dress than 
 that which nature has supplied them with. 
 They steal, however, every opportunity to break 
 through the established rule, and are never hap- 
 pier than when bedizened with ornaments, after 
 the manner of their female acquaintances. 
 
 The people of Borghoo are much more cleanly, 
 both in their habits and persons, than their 
 neighbours of Yariba, and would, generally 
 speaking, be more handsome, if they had not 
 the misfortune to have weak eyes, which im- 
 pairs considerably their personal appearance. 
 That part, which in the eyes of others is perfectly 
 white, is in theirs a smoky yellow ; but whether 
 this sickly-looking hue is occasioned by the 
 manner of living of the people of Borghoo, or
 
 PARTING WITH YARRO. 183 
 
 whether they derive it from nature, I had no 
 opportunity of judging. When he addresses 
 the king, a Borghoo man stretches himself on 
 the earth as flat as a flounder, in which attitude 
 he lies, kissing the dust, till his business with 
 his sovereign is at an end; when, covering his 
 head with sand or dust, he rises and goes his 
 way. When equals meet, each dropping on the 
 right knee, they shake hands three distinct 
 times, a pause sometimes of several seconds in- 
 tervening between the acts ; and, arising at the 
 same moment, they pm'sue their customary avo- 
 cations. The chiefs and head-men claim, from 
 the lower class of people, the observance of the 
 same humiliating ceremony, which is exacted by 
 the sovereign; and this manner of salutation 
 does not vary from Badagry to Houssa. 
 
 Having paid my respects to the facetious 
 Yarro on the 13th of September, he said to 
 me at parting, " If your king wishes, at a 
 future period, to send any one to Bornou, I 
 will conduct him to that country by a safe route, 
 without the necessity of his journeying even near 
 to the Falatah country." He then made me a
 
 184 MOSS A. 
 
 present of a strong pony ; and on the following 
 day we left Khiama; and traversing a country 
 laid almost under water, halted in Subia" at 
 noon. 
 
 The chief of the town, on my arrival, made 
 me a present of a fat goat and some yams, with 
 which we made an excellent supper ; and on the 
 15th, being unable to reach an inhabited place, 
 made a large fire n the midst of a wood, in the 
 centre of which, having previously rolled myself 
 up in my tobe, I lay down and slept soundly till 
 morning. Crossing a creek, we arrived a" 
 Mossa, a town situated on the banks of a river 
 of the same name, dividing Borghoo from Ya- 
 riba. The stream was overflowed, and the cur- 
 rent so strong and rapid, that not a single in- 
 habitant of the town had resolution enough to 
 ferry us to the other side, in consequence of 
 which we were obliged to stay without food for 
 the whole of the day and night, not a single 
 goat or bowl of tuah being to be had in the 
 place. 
 
 I asked the king of Khiama 's messenger why 
 he. in particular, was so much afraid of crossing
 
 STRANGE CREDULITY. 185 
 
 the water, observing, that I had myself passed 
 over many larger and more rapid rivers by 
 swimming; and I mentioned, amongst others,[the 
 Quorra. The man begged me, in great trepi- 
 dation, as I valued my life, not to mention the 
 names of rivers in the hearing of the Mossa, 
 which was a female stream, and had various 
 rivals in the affections of the Quorra, that river 
 being her lawful husband ! " The Mossa," 
 continued the sagacious messenger, in the same 
 solemn strain and anxious manner, " has a 
 jealous, capricious, cruel disposition, and if you 
 venture to place yourself in her power, she will 
 certainly swallow you up, for you have already 
 spoken disrespectfully of her, and this sin is 
 unpardonable ; pride being, next to cruelty, her 
 most striking quality. She is continually quar- 
 relling with her husband, who is a sober-minded 
 stream, thinking him to be too familiar with 
 other female rivers ; and where they meet they 
 make the ' devil's own noise' with their angry 
 disputes." 
 
 Contrary to my usual custom, I absolutely 
 roared with laughter as soon as the man, with
 
 186 CHIEF OF MOSSA. 
 
 the most impenetrable gravity, had finished his 
 recital of the amours of the licentious Quorra, 
 and was dragging me away from his jealous 
 wife, the high-minded Mossa ; and I had a hard 
 task to pacify the irritated messenger, whose 
 sable countenance was inflated with rage and 
 passion at this second breach of decency and 
 respect on my part. 
 
 I went to the chief of the village of Mossa 
 on the 17th, intreating him to sell me a little 
 food, and wishing to know whether it was 
 his intention to starve us, for this was the 
 second day during which we had tasted no- 
 thing; but although the great man, whose 
 face shone with fat, grew abundance of yams, 
 he refused to part with any, affirming that he 
 had not sufficient wherewith to fill his own 
 paunch. Suspecting the oily old scoundrel's 
 assertion to be destitute of truth, and learning 
 that he had an extensive garden, I requested 
 permission for Pasko to cut grass in it for the 
 use of the horses, which was sullenly granted. 
 The stratagem succeeded to my expectation, 
 for Pasko, than whom a better person for the 
 purpose could not be found, succeeded in dis-
 
 PASKO'S DEXTERITY. 187 
 
 covering an immense heap of yams, concealed 
 in a particular place in the garden; and securing a 
 few of them in a huge bundle of grass, he brought 
 them to me. If this had not been the case, I 
 really believe we should have been actually 
 starved, or compelled to storm the inhospitable 
 village. On the following day I repeated my 
 visit to the ill-natured chief, and demanded a 
 second time something to eat. He solemnly 
 declared that he was himself dying of hunger, 
 and that, though he had caused a strict search to 
 be made the preceding evening, nothing could 
 be found worth eating. I then urged him to 
 send his canoe to the opposite side of the Mossa 
 for provisions, which, after some murmuring, he 
 consented to do, but first of all made a charm, 
 that the boat might not be damaged on its long 
 and perilous voyage. For this purpose the 
 chief killed a fetish-fowl (reserved for religious 
 occasions), and sprinkling its blood in the river, 
 placed some of the entrails in the bow of the 
 canoe. He then put a broken egg in its stern, 
 and muttering an incantation over the whole, 
 the vessel was pushed off the shore, and reached
 
 188 NATIVE SUPERSTITION. 
 
 the opposite side in safety; but, in returning, with 
 a cargo of poultry and yams, the ferryman ran 
 it foul of a tree which unluckily lay in the 
 middle of the stream, in consequence of which 
 it was upset, and immediately sinking, the whole 
 of the cargo swam down the envious Mossa, or 
 was rendered unfit to be eaten. 
 
 The messenger of Khiama, who had so gravely 
 acquainted me with the loves of the river, 
 although he was himself a sufferer from the 
 accident, was too much elated to contain his 
 transports, but came to me, smiling, and asked 
 what I thought of his former allegations, and 
 whether I was not convinced it was a judgment 
 upon me for speaking ill of the spouse of the 
 Quorra, that I was disappointed in my ex- 
 pectations. 
 
 I was too much concerned to pay great atten- 
 tion to the man's observations, which circumstance 
 he mistaking for sorrow and penitence for my 
 crime, said, " Never mind, Christian, you have 
 only to humble yourself a little, in sight of the 
 Mossa, and, I dare say she will overlook your im- 
 prudence, because she must be aware you were a
 
 PASKO. 189 
 
 stranger to her history, when you spoke so jeer- 
 ingly of her power and influence." I acquiesced 
 in the messenger's reasoning ; and, clapping his 
 hands, he left me immediately to acquaint his 
 companions and fellow-countrymen with the 
 white man's conversion and repentance. 
 
 The chief, in alluding to the accident, re- 
 proached me with being the sole cause of it; and 
 asserted that it would be dangerous to cross for 
 three or four days, during which time I might 
 starve, if I would, for he had nothing to give 
 me. I did not think proper, however, to do so, 
 and despatching Pasko to the yam repository 
 for the purpose of cutting grass, the old fellow 
 returned with a double portion of that grateful 
 vegetable, which served the whole of my domes- 
 tics for three meals. Never was Pasko so high 
 in favour as at that period. For five successive 
 days his visits to the chief's garden were regu- 
 lar; but he was obliged to use all his cunning 
 to avoid being detected by the owner of the 
 yams, who accompanied him on more than one 
 occasion to the sacred inclosure. Although at 
 the distance of only a few feet, however, the
 
 190 WANTATAH. HOG IE. 
 
 husband of Mattah contrived to deceive the 
 chief; for, humming a Houssa song, with one 
 hand he gathered the cut grass into a heap, and 
 with the other, dragged out an enormous yam 
 from the place of its concealment, and quick as 
 lightning hid it beneath the grass ; then, binding 
 the herbage in his tobe, he quietly proceeded to 
 our hut, without being suspected by the chief of 
 Mossa. 
 
 The agitation of the river having somewhat 
 subsided on the 22nd, we got into a canoe, and 
 with innumerable significant glances from the 
 timid and superstitious messenger, were landed 
 without accident on the opposite bank ; but our 
 asses were borne a full quarter of a mile down 
 the stream, before they could effect the same 
 object. A ride of two hours brought us in sight 
 of Wantatah, the frontier town in the empire 
 of Yariba, where we slept ; and on the next 
 morning entered the insignificant village of 
 Hogie, in which we rested the remainder of 
 that day and the whole of the succeeding one. It 
 rained unceasingly on the 25th, and the road 
 was rendered almost impassable; nevertheless
 
 THE SULTAN OF YARIBA. 191 
 
 we succeeded in entering Katunga, the capital 
 of Yariba, about seven o'clock in the evening, 
 when we immediately bent our way towards the 
 dwelling which we had occupied on our journey 
 to Soccatoo. 
 
 Mansolah would not let me visit his palace 
 the morning after our arrival, fearing it might 
 wet my feet ! but condescended to expose his 
 own royal person to the like inconvenience by 
 coming to see me at my habitation. On this 
 occasion he was attended by five hundred of his 
 wives (out of two thousand ! ) and made a sud- 
 den pause on approaching within a few yards of 
 me. Each of his half-dressed ladies held a light 
 spear in the left hand, with the right leg slightly 
 bent ; and, leaning partially on their weapon, the 
 end of which rested on the earth, with unspeak- 
 able grace they began their song of welcome, and 
 dirge for my master's death. The music of their 
 voices was wild but sweet, and reverberating 
 from the hills, had a singularly saddening, al- 
 though by no means a disagreeable, effect ; and 
 these were the strains they sang :
 
 192 YARIBA SONG. 
 
 SONG OF THE WIVES OF THE KING OF YARIBA. 
 
 / 
 
 Welcome, white stranger, to Mansolah's land ! 
 
 Appear, appear ! 
 Com'st thou with presents or with empty hand, 
 
 Thou'rt welcome here. 
 
 Forget thy sorrows, feed thy grief no more ; 
 
 Awake to glee : 
 And dance delighted, as thou didst before, 
 
 Around our tree. 
 
 Mansolah greets thee, with two thousand wives ; 
 
 And small and great 
 Have urg'd the gods to save the white men's lives 
 
 From Nyff hate : 
 
 From Borghoo charms, and wild feticherie 
 
 Falatahs' spear ; 
 From the dead venom of the kongkonie ;* 
 
 And Arab lair. 
 
 Yet one hath fallen where no palm-trees grow, 
 Nor cocoas dwell : 
 
 * A shrub from the seeds of which the natives extract the 
 deadly venom in which the points of their arrows are invariably 
 dipped.
 
 YARIBA SONG. 193 
 
 Where savage bosoms feel not others' woe, 
 There Bebbo* fell. 
 
 O Yaribeans ! mourn his early death ! 
 
 (Mansolah weeps,) 
 For the Falatah draws his infant breath, 
 
 Where white man sleeps. 
 
 Not one from earth into his grave was hurl'd, 
 
 Poor lonely thing ! 
 No kind companion in the other world 
 
 Will comfort bring.f 
 
 Curse the Falatahs ! curse them, O ye gods ! 
 
 Their pride lay low ! 
 Rise, Yaribeans ! shake your trembling rods ! 
 
 Bend, bend the bow ! 
 
 Swift from your arrows as the bounding doe 
 
 The Moslems fly. 
 Crush them, ye mighty chiefs ! o'erwhelm the foe! 
 
 Or nobly die. 
 
 * BEBBO. Great or big white man. Captain Clapperton was 
 generally known in Africa as lella; and I, a curramee (little). 
 
 f The inhabitants of Katunga, and indeed all the Yaribeans, 
 are persuaded that when the dead awake from their long sleep, 
 they will need companions and servants in the other world ; and, 
 on the strength of this belief, at the burial of any person of con- 
 sequence, many of his friends swallow poison, and, with a number 
 of slaves that are slain for the purpose, are inhumed in the same 
 grave as the deceased. 
 
 VOL. II. K
 
 194 YARIBA SONG. 
 
 The Christian's blood is on them,* and the curse 
 
 Of God prevails. 
 Haste, minstrels, haste ! in palaces rehearse 
 
 These wond'rous tales. 
 
 Tell ye the world that white-tac'd strangers will 
 
 A welcome have ; 
 Or like the Boussans, they will fight until 
 
 They find a grave. 
 
 Whilst the young women were singing, many 
 of the listening multitude were greatly affected 
 and shed tears, and all faintly joined in the 
 strains at intervals. The gesticulation and ac- 
 tions of the ladies corresponded with their ex- 
 pressions: at one instant the spear was lifted 
 slowly from the ground, and handed lightly; 
 and at another it was flourished over their 
 heads with inconceivable animation and ra- 
 pidity. At the conclusion of this singular ce- 
 remony the assembled thousands quietly dis- 
 persed ; and the singers returned, in the order 
 they had come, to the palace of their sovereign. 
 Mansolah shortly afterwards came into my 
 
 * Neither Mansolali, nor any of his subjects, would believe 
 but that Captain Clnpperton came to his death by violent means.
 
 INTERVIEW WITH MANSOLAH. 195 
 
 dwelling, and, expressing in simple and natural 
 terms his sorrow for my master's death, ques- 
 tioned me pretty closely as to the reasons for 
 our visiting Soccatoo. I returned him the same 
 answer as the king of Khiama received from me 
 a short time before, which appeared to satisfy 
 him, and after a conference of two hours he left 
 me. The monarch was richly dressed in a 
 scarlet damask tobe, ornamented with coral 
 beads, and short trousers of the same colour 
 with a light blue stripe, made of country cloth ; 
 his legs, as far as the knees, were stained red 
 with hennah, and on his feet he wore sandals of 
 red leather. A cap of blue damask, thickly 
 studded with handsome coral beads, was on 
 his head ; and his neck, arms, and legs, were 
 decorated with large silver rings. Before leav- 
 ing me, I offered his sable majesty the horse I 
 had purchased in Kano, (a fine animal that had 
 carried me nearly the whole of the way from 
 that city,) and regretted my inability to make him 
 a more valuable present, promising, however, 
 that if he permitted two messengers to accom- 
 pany me from Katunga, I would, on my arrival 
 K 2
 
 196 MANSOLAH'S WIVES. 
 
 at Badagry, send back something more befitting 
 his exalted station. Mansolah accepted the 
 beast with the usual demonstrations of gratitude ; 
 and in the evening acknowledged the favour by 
 despatching a slave to our house with a fine fat 
 goat and a quantity of yams. 
 
 The reason why Mansolah had so immense a 
 number of wives is easily Accounted for by the 
 fact that the husband of every female in his 
 dominions, who has a daughter unfortunate 
 enough to be endowed with a greater share of 
 personal beauty than the generality of her sex, 
 is obliged, under the severest penalty, to present 
 her to his sovereign. Before the interview be- 
 tween the parties takes place, it is customary 
 for the father to procure a fatted sheep and 
 a bowl of rice, which are borne by the girl to his 
 majesty's dwelling as a marriage portion ; and if 
 it should so happen that the man is too poor to 
 obtain this present, he must on no account fail 
 to send his daughter, although she is taken no 
 notice of till that be received by the monarch. 
 When this is the case, the friends of the young 
 woman subscribe amongst themselves a sum of
 
 MANSOLAH'S WIVES. 197 
 
 money sufficient to purchase the sheep and rice, 
 on the receipt of which she is instantly admitted 
 into the royal favour and protection, and the 
 greatest familiarity from that hour prevails be- 
 tween the prince and his newly-married bride. 
 
 After they have passed a certain age, the 
 king's wives are set at liberty, and permitted 
 to trade up and down the country in the va- 
 rious articles of native produce and manufac- 
 ture ; the profits of which are uniformly given 
 to the sovereign. The younger ladies employ 
 their time in the adornment of their bodies, and 
 beautifying their teeth and hair, in order to make 
 themselves the more agreeable and fascinating 
 in the eyes of their imperious master, to whom 
 they sing, in a kind of recitative, several times in 
 the day, and whom they fan to sleep at night. 
 
 The principal fetish-hut at Katunga is the 
 largest and most fancifully ornamented of any 
 of a similar kind in the interior of Africa. It is 
 a perfect square building, each side of which is 
 at least twenty yards in length. Directly oppo- 
 site the entrance is an immense figure of a giant 
 bearing a lion on its head, carved in wood, and
 
 198 FETISH-HUTS. 
 
 beautifully executed. About twenty-six or 
 twenty-seven figures, in bas-relief, are placed on 
 each of the sides of the hut, but all in a kneeling 
 posture, with their faces turned towards the 
 larger figure, to which they are apparently pay- 
 ing their devotions. On the heads of the small 
 figures are wooden images of tigers, hyenas, 
 snakes, crocodiles, &c. exquisitely carved ; and 
 painted, or rather stained, with a variety of co- 
 lours. These are the gods of the Yaribeans; 
 and the king, accompanied by his caboceers, 
 and other principal men, repairs to this hut, to 
 offer up his adorations before the idols, and 
 make complaints if any mishap has attended 
 their warriors, &c. Whenever Mansolah enters 
 the sacred temple, he immediately uncovers his 
 head, and prostrates himself on the floor, which 
 is stained crimson, and very highly polished; and 
 his example is instantly followed by his attend- 
 ants. In this position they sometimes remain 
 for an hour together, either making loud lamen- 
 tations, and imploring the assistance of their 
 wooden gods ; or, after repeating their griev- 
 ances to them in an under tone, ask the reasoning
 
 YARIBA GODS. 
 
 of their ill success or misfortune, and entreating 
 the figures to be more propitious to their under- 
 takings, and deal more kindly with them. 
 
 None of the lower orders of people are admit- 
 ted into this solemn sanctuary, but prostrate 
 themselves, and pray, without the walls. One 
 poor old woman alone is allowed to enter, whose 
 business it is to keep the interior of the hut per- 
 fectly clean, and even she dares not make her 
 appearance till after her sovereign has said his 
 daily prayers, and left the place. 
 
 There are fifty other fetish-huts at Katunga, on 
 a smaller and less magnificent scale than the one 
 above alluded to; and public worship is performed 
 in all of them before sunrise every morning. If, 
 however, any thing particular takes place in the 
 course of the day, the inhabitants make it their 
 business to repair to their temples, and, ac- 
 quainting their gods with the circumstance, 
 make observations on it, and express their gra- 
 titude or disappointment with considerable ve- 
 hemence. 
 
 When an infant dies, the mother invariably 
 wears, suspended from the neck, and reaching
 
 200 SINGULAR CUSTOM. 
 
 to the bosom, a figure of a child, about six inches 
 in length, and of proportionable thickness, which 
 is carved in wood, and regarded by the people 
 as a token of mourning. This is worn for an 
 indefinite length of time, according to the incli- 
 nation or caprice of the bereaved parent ; and 
 many women do not cast it aside until the expi- 
 ration of six, eight, and even twelvemonths, dur- 
 ing which they chat to and caress the wooden 
 figure, as if it had been instinct with life and 
 motion, possessed of all the playfulness and 
 endearing manners which distinguished their 
 offspring when alive, and capable of enjoying 
 the effects of maternal tenderness. This singu- 
 lar custom is confined exclusively to Yariba.
 
 201 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 Ebo the celebrated fat Eunuch The Yuribeans not very delicate 
 in the choice of what they eat Dress of the different peo- 
 ple in the interior Treatment of invalids Tattoo marks of 
 different nations The Author is urged to become Son-in-law 
 to Mansolah, Generalissimo of his Forces, and Prime Minister 
 of State Names of Towns Departure from Katunga Anec- 
 dote of a gang of robbers Mungo Park's son Arrival at 
 Badagry. 
 
 EBO, the noted eunuch who has so often been 
 spoken of, and whose mal-practices produced 
 great uneasiness to us on our proceeding towards 
 Kano, had been taken into favour by his sove- 
 reign, during my absence from Katunga, and . 
 promoted to the highest offices of the state. He 
 came to me, paunch and all, on the Sunday after 
 my arrival at Katunga, and, laughing heartily 
 at his former frolics, told me he had no need 
 to make such shifts then in order to pro- 
 K 5
 
 202 EBO. 
 
 cure any delicacy he might want, for that he had 
 only to hint his wishes, when a bowl of dogs' Gl- 
 asses' flesh, a dish of fried caterpillars, or a sauce- 
 pan of ants or locusts, was smoking before him 
 in a moment ! I congratulated the lucky eunuch 
 on his good fortune, and the amplitude of his 
 body, which he took very good-humouredly ; 
 and, during my stay in the city, Ebo the fat 
 gourmand was my best friend. 
 
 We had heard in Nyffe that the same eunuch 
 had attempted to poison us through hired ruffians; 
 but his conduct throughout was marked by so 
 much kindness and affability, that I did not give 
 the rumour a moment's belief. There was one 
 action of his, however, that I cannot pass by 
 without remark, although it detracts greatly 
 from his good qualities ; it is as follows : After 
 begging of me my remaining pistol, two dollars, 
 and a scarlet cap, he also wished to obtain my 
 ass, to make a fetish, but I refused to part with 
 the animal, on the plea that I should want him 
 myself on my journey to Badagry. Ebo did 
 not uage his request a second time ; but, in the 
 evening, having sent for him from a neighbour-
 
 EBO. 203 
 
 ing pasture, I found the poor beast wounded in 
 the side by two poisoned arrows, which were 
 still sticking in the flesh; and this malicious 
 action had, no doubt, been effected at the insti- 
 gation of the disappointed eunuch. The poison 
 did not act so suddenly as I expected, for the 
 ass languished for six days ; at the end of which 
 time, being reduced to a skeleton and in great 
 agony, I ordered Jowdie and Pasko to take him 
 to a short distance and cut his throat; which was 
 presently complied with. 
 
 No sooner, however, had the king been made 
 acquainted with the circumstance, than he com- 
 manded the carcase to be cut into quarters, and 
 conveyed to his house; which having been prompt- 
 ly executed, (his majesty himself superintending 
 the roasting department, and having assembled 
 his wives and head-men, ) they all squatted them- 
 selves on the earth, and made a sumptuous meal 
 on the diseased ass-flesh. Wishing to display his 
 gratitude for so delicious a treat, Mansolah sent 
 me a goat and a thousand cowries as an acknow- 
 ledgment for the pleasure it had afforded him. 
 
 Ebo one day showed me a small apartment
 
 204- EBO. 
 
 in his house filled with cowries (being worth about 
 fifty dollars English money), and asked with an 
 exulting air, if the king of my country was half 
 so rich as himself. " Half so rich as yourself ! " 
 I rather indiscreetly replied ; " Why, my sove- 
 reign could purchase you, your monarch, and 
 the whole of Yariba, and not miss the money 
 the purchase of it would require." " Indeed," 
 rejoined Ebo, angrily, " thou liest ; " and with- 
 out further ceremony was about to fling me 
 into the yard ; when, hastily retracting my ex- 
 pression, I assured the irascible eunuch that I 
 spoke only in jest, to try his temper; which apo- 
 logy somewhat appeased the gigantic black, who, 
 laughingly accusing himself of being rather too 
 quick when his own honor and that of his country 
 were concerned, invited me to partake with him 
 of a dozen of stewed rats, and a calabash ofpitto ! 
 
 FOOD OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 The people of Yariba are not very scrupu- 
 lous in the choice of food, eating indiscrimi- 
 nately whatever comes in their way ; frogs, 
 monkeys, dogs, cat?, with rats and mice, and
 
 FOOD OF THE YARIBEANS. 205 
 
 various other kind of vermin ; nothing in fact 
 is prohibited, and nothing is rejected by their 
 hungry maws. Locusts, and black ants, just as 
 they are able to fly, are a great luxury ; and, as 
 with the ancient Romans, caterpillars are in 
 very high estimation ; the former are fried in 
 butter or oil, and said to be delicious, Pasko 
 himself affirming that they were land-shrimps; 
 whilst the latter are stewed and eaten with yams 
 and tuah, and consumed by all ranks with the 
 most astonishing avidity. Ass-flesh is even more 
 esteemed in Yariba than venison in England ; 
 and, like venison, the stronger the odour it ex- 
 hales, the more delicious is it to the refined pa- 
 late of the higher ranks ; the lower orders being 
 forbidden to eat of it in that country. 
 
 On my journey from Wow Wow, halting 
 near a small river, I was visited by a party of 
 Yaribeans, who had been at Nyffe purchasing 
 hides for the Katunga market, and were on their 
 way to the capital. They solicited permission 
 to place themselves under my protection, and 
 slept near me for the night. A gaffle of mer- 
 chants had rested on the same spot about a week
 
 206 FOOD. 
 
 before, and had left a dead ass behind them, 
 which emitting an intolerable scent, the Yari- 
 beans were soon sensible that so rich a prize 
 was at hand, and, snuffing up the tainted air, 
 went immediately in quest of it. Being guided 
 by the powerful smell, they shortly after disco- 
 vered the corrupted carcase, and fell to blows as 
 to which should have the most approved joints ; 
 but the dispute being at length amicably ad- 
 justed by a mutual agreement to roast the ani- 
 mal whole in its skin, a large fire was instantly 
 kindled, and when the body became warm 
 through, it was cut up on the grass, the party 
 sitting in a circle round the smoking beast. 
 After they had made a hearty and savoury re- 
 past on its flesh, the bones were carefully picked 
 and preserved ; for, as in the case of Moses' 
 brazen serpent amongst the Israelites, every per- 
 son afflicted with a disease of any kind, by simply 
 looking at a tooth or a bone, was to be imme- 
 diately made whole : so ridiculous are the super- 
 stitions of the Yaribeans. 
 
 People of that kingdom also go in com- 
 panies into countries where the dog is not
 
 FOOD. 207 
 
 eaten by the natives, to purchase that animal ; 
 and they return with many hundreds annu- 
 ally to Katunga. They then confine the dogs 
 so procured in huts set apart for the pur- 
 pose; and after fattening them, publicly ex- 
 pose the flesh for sale in the market; and a 
 fatted dog will at all times fetch a higher price 
 than the finest goat. Yaribeans likewise visit 
 Nyffe, and other nations and provinces, to pur- 
 chase the hides of bullocks, horses, asses, &c. and 
 having deprived them of hair by the application 
 of boiling water, they stretch and dry them in the 
 sun. When the moisture becomes evaporated 
 by this means, the skin is cut into small square 
 pieces and stewed in corn and rice ; in which 
 state it is is hawked through the streets of Ka- 
 tunga, and being esteemed by all ranks as a 
 dainty morsel, is eagerly purchased. 
 
 Cats are becoming so scarce in Yariba by 
 reason of the bitter persecution that is carried 
 on against them unceasingly by the half-starved 
 slaves, that they are seldom seen, and in the 
 course of a few years, in all probability, these 
 useful animals will be wholly exterminated.
 
 FOOD. 
 
 also are much in request, and al- 
 though they are certainly not considered by 
 the Yaribeans quite so delicious to the pa- 
 late as the French imagine them; their flesh 
 is by no means regarded as coarse eating. 
 Some of these creatures are of extraordinary 
 size, and 1 saw one served up at Ebo's table, 
 which could not have weighed, I am sure, 
 much less than five pounds. The consumption 
 of lizards is confined almost solely to very poor 
 people and slaves ; for the latter being allowed 
 little to eat by their masters, are often necessi- 
 tated (leaving their inclination out of the ques- 
 tion) to consume the most filthy things; and 
 nothing surely can be half so disgusting as a 
 lizard roasted whole in its skin, and smoking 
 before a hungry Yaribean. 
 
 On feast days, however, both poor persons 
 and slaves fare more sumptuously, a couple of 
 rats, tails and all, being no strangers to their 
 boards on such festivities ; and sour milk may be 
 had in abundance. The mode of preparing 
 food does not vary much in any of the interior 
 countries; but in no kingdom or land whatever
 
 METHOD OF DRESSING FOOD. 209 
 
 is less taste and refinement displayed in the se- 
 lection of dishes, than in the empire of Yariba. 
 
 The vegetable food of the Yaribeans consists 
 of yams, plantains, rice, seven or eight varieties 
 of corn, &c. The yam is the general food of 
 both rich and poor, and by far the most useful 
 vegetable of the whole. It is cultivated to a 
 considerable extent as far in the interior as 
 Nyffe ; but it is no where to be met with after 
 one leaves that kingdom. When drawn from the 
 earth, the root of the yam is cut into thin slices, 
 and dried in the sun, after which it is beat to a 
 powder in huge wooden mortars, and reserved 
 as an agreeable and healthful summer food. 
 
 The manner in which the people prepare 
 their food is either by roasting, or boiling and 
 stewing. Owing to the heat of the atmosphere, 
 and the inconvenience of smoke (the use of 
 chimneys being as yet unknown to them), fires 
 are kindled by every individual in the yard sur- 
 rounding his hut, which is used for domestic pur- 
 poses ; but there are also persons who obtain a 
 decent livelihood by dressing victuals publicly 
 in the market; arid these men are furnished
 
 210 DRESSING OF FOOD. 
 
 with a kind of earthern stove, having large 
 holes in the bottom, in order to admit the fire 
 which is kindled underneath. On the top of 
 the stove other apertures are formed at a con- 
 venient distance from each other, so as to admit 
 sufficient heat to the earthern vessels, which, 
 being filled with lizards, rats, cats, frogs, &c. 
 are placed on them, in order that their contents 
 may be all dressed in as short a time as possible. 
 During the rainy months fires are kindled in 
 sheds purposely constructed for the occasion, it 
 being impossible for them to burn in the open 
 air by reason of the unabating violence of the 
 weather. Mornings and evenings are the periods 
 generally allotted for the preparation of food, 
 and a fire is rarely seen in the intermediate 
 hours of the day. The yam-flour is usually 
 made into a solid pudding by being mixed with 
 water, and boiled in much the same manner as 
 common paste in England ; and a person is em- 
 ployed in stirring it over the fire with a stick 
 till the whole is sufficiently dressed, which done, 
 the pudding is turned out into a calabash or 
 bowl, and a quantity of either honey, oil, or
 
 CULTURE OF INDIGO. 211 
 
 butter from the maccadania tree being mixed 
 with it, the paste is eaten with die fingers. 
 Animal food is roasted on a wooden stake thrust 
 into the earth before the fire, and after one side 
 is properly dressed, the meat is simply turned 
 on the other, the use of the jack, or indeed any 
 article at all answering to it being unknown to 
 the people of Western and Central Africa. 
 
 In the vicinity of Katunga, and most other 
 large towns, indigo is cultivated to an extent of 
 from five to six hundred acres. When ripe it 
 is cut and thrown into large circular pits, lined 
 with clay, previously hardened by fire ; and a 
 quantity of water being poured upon it, the 
 plant is suffered to rot and ferment, when the 
 contents of the pit soon becoming of the sub- 
 stance of a thick paste, without any further pre- 
 paration, and without detaching the stalks and 
 leaves from the seed, it is taken out and made 
 into irregular masses, about the size of a man's 
 head. In this state it is left to dry in the 
 sun, and when sufficiently hard, is exposed for 
 sale at the markets. Male and female dyers 
 are numerous in Yariba, and the process of
 
 212 METHOD OF DYEING. 
 
 dyeing is as simple as can well be conceived. 
 After the lumps of indigo are dissolved in water, 
 the liquid is strained through wicker baskets, 
 till it becomes sufficiently pure, when it is fit for 
 immediate use. Cloths being immersed in the 
 dye, are suffered to remain in it for a period not 
 exceeding twenty-four hours, and are taken out 
 and hung on lines surrounding the work-shops. 
 When perfectly dry, the articles are laid on a 
 large flat block of wood, smoothed by hatchets 
 and knives, and a man beats them with a wooden 
 instrument, not unlike an English cricket-bat, 
 till they become sufficiently smooth and glossy ; 
 in which state they are either offered for sale, 
 or returned to their owners. 
 
 The apparel of the Yaribeans consists of full 
 trousers, tied with a running string to the waist, 
 but extending no lower than the knee ; a short 
 sleeveless tobe with large holes for the arms, 
 made of country cloth dyed with various co- 
 lours; a fantastically made cloth cap, and lea- 
 ther boots; in addition to which the higher
 
 DRESS OF THE YARIBEANS. 213 
 
 classes sometimes make use of red, yellow, and 
 purple silk velvet, obtained from Europeans on 
 the coast. The dress of the people from Ba- 
 dagry to Yariba differs very little from that 
 worn by the natives of the countries interjacent 
 between the latter kingdom and Houssa. Very 
 poor people and slaves use no other wearing ap- 
 parel than the skins of goats, sheep, monkeys, 
 or other animals, fastened to the waist by a 
 string ; and these being brought between the 
 legs, are tied to the band behind. The more 
 respectable part of the community in Houssa 
 wear very large full tobes and trousers, made of 
 extremely narrow country cloth, but beautifully 
 dyed; and a cap of white cotton. Mallams, how- 
 ever, have a red woollen cap (instead of the white 
 one), and a white turban. Boots, shoes, and san- 
 dals, of red and yellow leather, are manufactured 
 in a manner similar to those of Yariba, and 
 worn by poor and rich mendicant and prince. 
 
 MANNER OF CROSSING STREAMS. 
 
 The people of Yariba have a singular mode 
 of crossing rivers and streams, when the violence 
 and rapidity of their currents prevent them
 
 214 PASSAGE OVER STREAMS. 
 
 from plying canoes on them with safety. In- 
 stead of the ordinary ferry-boat, two calabashes, 
 or gourds, of the largest size, are selected 
 for the purpose ; and, the tops of each being 
 previously cut off, the two bodies are sewed to- 
 gether, and rendered water-proof by the appli- 
 cation of a kind of gum. The two gourds thus 
 united form a hollow sphere ; and are tolerably 
 well adapted for the conveyance of passengers, 
 &c. even through the swiftest currents, as will 
 be seen by the annexed engraving. The goods, 
 of whatever nature they may be, are first placed 
 on the floating gourd, and their owner then 
 grasps the latter firmly with both arms ; and a 
 perfect equilibrium is preserved by the ferryman 
 placing himself opposite the passenger, and lay- 
 ing hold of both his arms. They being thus, face 
 to face, the owner of the fragile bark propels it 
 through the water with dexterity and despatch ; 
 and few instances are on record of accidents oc- 
 curring by this means, even in the height of the 
 rainy seasons, when the country is one immense 
 swamp. In Houssa, &c. the natives use bam- 
 boo rafts, which answer the same purpose as the 
 above, although not with equal ease or celerity.
 
 PASSAGE OVER STREAMS. 
 
 215 
 
 TATTOOING. 
 
 The operation of tattooing, by which the dif- 
 ferent races in Africa are distinguished from 
 each other much more easily than by any na- 
 tural peculiarity in the colour of the skin, or 
 their general appearance, is performed by a 
 sharp iron instrument, somewhat larger than, but 
 certainly not unlike the blade of a common 
 English pen-knife; and .children generally, at 
 the age of six or seven years, undergo this painful 
 process, which indeed cannot be effected without
 
 216 TATTOOING. 
 
 putting the poor creatures to excruciating tor- 
 ture. I saw two girls tattooed at Katunga, in 
 the following manner : The hands and feet 
 of each being first bound, the head was held by 
 the lather, and the operator began his work by 
 making five incisions on the forehead with the 
 instrument above described; the little sufferer 
 uttering the most piercing screams, till from 
 hoarseness she was unable longer to cry aloud, 
 or speak so as to be understood. This being 
 done, the man cut eight other deep gashes on 
 the left cheek ; and the only means by which one 
 could then judge of the child's distress was by 
 observing a large pool of mingled blood and 
 tears on the ground, fed by a copious stream 
 flowing from the face of the little innocent. 
 
 The patients are invariably left to bleed till 
 they become insensible ; and death frequently 
 occurs in weakly cases. After some days, when 
 their strength is in a measure restored, they are 
 privileged to beg in the streets till their wounds 
 completely heal ; and this does not take place 
 oftentimes for four or five months after the ope- 
 ration, the children, during that long period,
 
 TATTOOING. 217 
 
 carry slender branches of trees in their hands ? 
 in order to scare away flies, which, on alighting 
 upon the lacerated face, cause considerable pain, 
 and occasion it to swell prodigiously. This im- 
 parts to the countenance an unsightly appear- 
 ance ; one than which nothing can be more truly 
 disgusting; and many of these pitiable objects 
 we observed in the deepest misery, wandering 
 through the streets of Katunga, and other cities, 
 and almost starving for want of food. 
 
 When a Yaribean perpetrates ever so trivial 
 a crime, the tattoo mark of his nation is so 
 crossed by other incisions, inflicted upon him by 
 the ministers of justice, that it becomes utterly 
 undistinguishable, and the impression of another 
 people is substituted on the other side of the 
 face in its stead. With this brand, which can 
 never be erased, he quits his native country, in 
 which he was looked upon as 
 
 " A mark for Scorn 
 To point his slow unmoving finger at ; " 
 
 and dies in a foreign land, unpitied and un- 
 known. 
 
 Circumcision, which is generally performed 
 
 VOL. n. L
 
 218 
 
 TATTOO MARKS. 
 
 on both sexes at an early age, is universally 
 adopted in all the interior countries. 
 
 The subjoined are the tattoo marks of the na- 
 tives of the most considerable countries in 
 Western and Central Africa. 
 K jrnaraonT &u T 
 
 Outturn Cora. Haussa. 
 
 The Bowchee people have no mark whatever 
 on the face, but in lieu thereof pierce the lobe 
 of the ear, and the soft part of the septum of the 
 nose, with a sharp instrument ; and hang divers 
 ornaments from holes so formed. 
 
 The wives of the great people of Katunga are 
 distinguished by having the hair cut and shaved
 
 CRUELTY TO THE SICK. 219 
 
 into a number of small patches like the ace of 
 diamonds, but larger ; and that of the wives of 
 the humbler classes is cut entirely off, leaving 
 the head as bald and bright as a barber's basin. 
 In the empire of Yariba the sick are treated 
 with neglect, and even cruelty. The moment a 
 man, woman, or child, is attacked with illness, 
 no matter what the nature of the complaint 
 may be, they are instantly conveyed by their 
 relatives to the distance of half a mile from the 
 town, and left to lie along the bare ground, 
 in a state of the most perfect nudity, underneath 
 the branches of trees ; and the people are ac- 
 quainted with no remedy whatever to alleviate 
 the virulence of their disorder, or assuage the 
 intensity of their sufferings. Food is sometimes 
 conveyed to them by their nearest of kin, the law 
 obliging them to do so ; but sometimes they 
 die from actual starvation. Often the lower 
 class of people are so very poor that they have 
 not a sufficiency to satisfy the appetites of their 
 healthy offspring, and therefore feel no dispo- 
 sition to part with the little they have, to those 
 (perhaps aged parents) who are sinking under 
 
 L2
 
 220 CRUELTY TO THE SICK. 
 
 the influence of a contagious disease. It some- 
 times happens, too, that these miserable out- 
 casts are snatched from their insecure asylum 
 under the trees, and devoured by wild beasts. 
 Native travellers are now and then moved to 
 compassionate their sufferings, by reason of the 
 piteous lamentations which they make; but, 
 shrinking with terror from the distressed objects, 
 they throw yams to them at the distance of 
 twenty or thirty yards, and never go near 
 enough to inquire into the nature of their mala- 
 dy, or further relieve their wants. Whenever an 
 unhappy invalid is carried off by wild beasts, 
 his countrymen believe him to have been a very 
 wicked man, so bad indeed as to have been un- 
 worthy the succour and protection of their gods, 
 and consequently deserving the fate which his 
 supposed evil conduct and irreligious life had 
 so signally occasioned. Many of these poor 
 creatures, whose hollow groans and moanings 
 of distress have attracted me to the spot, have I 
 seen hi the last stage of existence, some of them 
 rolling in the dust, and convulsively writhing 
 from excessive pain, and some reduced to per-
 
 CRUELTY TO THE SICK. 221 
 
 feet skeletons for want of food, their bones jut- 
 ting out of their diseased flesh, and exhibiting a 
 more ghastly spectacle than can well we ima- 
 gined : others again have I found speechless and 
 almost cold ; and on one occasion in particular, 
 whilst I was gazing on a poor wretch who was far 
 beyond the reach of succour, he fixed his hollow 
 eyes so piteously upon my countenance, seeming 
 to implore me to let him die in peace, that I 
 could not refrain from shedding tears. 
 
 This barbarous and inhuman custom of ex- 
 posing invalids in the open air, under the shade 
 of trees, is confined to Yariba, the people of 
 Badagry, and the natives of Borghoo, Nyffe, and 
 Houssa, suffering their sick to expire quietly in 
 their own houses, if, after swallowing a liquid 
 which is prepared for them by their priests, or 
 the expounders of the Moslem faith, the patients 
 derive no apparent benefit from the medicine. 
 This preparation consists either of a bowl of water 
 into which a charm written with ochre on a bit 
 of wood, has been previously washed off, or else 
 a decoction of the bark of a tree, rendered holy 
 by an incantation of a fetish priest.
 
 222 YARIBEAN BOWMEN. 
 
 The Yaribeans have the reputation of being 
 the best bowmen in Africa ; and the young men 
 soon become excellent marksmen by frequent 
 practice and steady perseverance, which latter is 
 a virtue that falls to the lot of but few nations 
 in the central parts. They amuse themselves 
 daily by attempting to discharge arrows through 
 a small hole made for the purpose in a wall, at 
 a great distance from the standing ground, and 
 I have frequently seen individuals accomplish 
 this difficult task three successive times, when 
 upwards of a hundred yards from the spot ; but 
 it requires great and unceasing practice to attain 
 to so much perfection in the art. Quantities of 
 muskets are procured from the coast, but they 
 are of comparatively little use to the people, who 
 know not how to handle them with effect ; and 
 it is not unusual for them to carry these weapons 
 to battle without either powder or ball. If 
 worsted in an engagement, however, in order to 
 accelerate their speed, they throw them away, 
 and their enemies eagerly lay hold of the empty 
 muskets for their own use. 
 
 Besides other sources of revenue, the King of
 
 YARIBEAN REVENUE, &C. 223 
 
 Yariba levies a tax on every one that enters the 
 gates of Katunga with a load, of whatever it 
 may consist, and also appoints persons to collect 
 a tribute from every person attending the mar- 
 ket with any saleable commodity. The amount 
 of duty is always governed by the value of the 
 beast or article sold, which is decided by accre- 
 dited agents: for example, a handsome horse 
 imported from Borghoo, or any other country, is 
 liable in the market to a tax of two thousand 
 cowries; whereas if the animal so exposed for 
 sale be less handsome, or of inferior value, the 
 sum demanded decreases regressively in amount. 
 The same rule holds good in regard to bullocks, 
 country cloth, &c. 
 
 We were mistaken in supposing the crown of 
 Yariba to be hereditary, the chiefs invariably 
 electing, from among the wisest and most saga- 
 cious of their own body, an individual who is 
 invested with the supreme dignity, immediately 
 after the decease of a monarch. On the disso- 
 lution of a ruling prince, his eldest son, together 
 with his favourite wife, and several head men of 
 io '
 
 224 FUNERAL CUSTOM. 
 
 the kingdom, voluntarily destroy themselves by 
 swallowing poison, and are inhumed in the same 
 grave with their sovereign, to assist him in his 
 wanderings in the other world. At their solemn 
 sacrifices, the Yaribeans slay for the occasion 
 old and infirm persons, whose life, say they, is a 
 burden to them; and who manifest no reluctance 
 whatever to yield up then: pain and misery for 
 the honour of the gods. With this solitary ex- 
 ception, the people may be considered as mild 
 in their manners and charitable in their dealings. 
 The king strongly urged upon me to remain 
 in Katunga with him, and tried every means to 
 accomplish his wishes. Amongst other induce- 
 ments held out, Mansolah was graciously pleased 
 to introduce me to his daughters, four of the 
 most l>eautiful of whom he desired me to select, 
 and make my wives. He also offered me the 
 enviable situations of prime minister and great 
 war-chief, or generalissimo of his forces (both of 
 which offices are highly respectable in Yariba), 
 and in case I accepted them, his majesty would 
 make me a present of slaves, horses, and indeed
 
 MANSOLAH'S DAUGHTERS. 225 
 
 every thing needful to maintain an establish- 
 ment correspondent to the splendour of my 
 rank, and the dignity of my appearance. It 
 being entirely out of my power to resist the 
 pressing solicitations of the king, I pointed at 
 four of the princesses (who stood bolt upright 
 before me, giggling and laughing,) as being the 
 most lovely of their sex, and as worthy to share 
 the bed and fortune of the prime minister of 
 Yariba ! I desired that the ladies might resume 
 their apparel, and take care of themselves till 
 my return from England, for that it was abso- 
 lutely necessary I should visit the country of 
 my fathers before I could think of settling per- 
 manently in a strange and distant land. " But 
 will your king," eagerly inquired Mansolah, 
 " will your king give you permission to come 
 back again?" " Without doubt," I replied. 
 " I shall then be master of my own actions, and 
 follow the bent of my inclination in all things." 
 " That is right, that is right," replied the mo- 
 narch ; " you shall be my son-in-law, and have 
 the administration of my affairs, both foreign 
 and domestic ; yoi^ shall drive my adversaries 
 ^ L5
 
 226 MANSOLAH'S DAUGHTERS. 
 
 from my country : it will then be a good country, 
 and peace will reign in the land." I thanked 
 Mansolah for his kindness, and observed that I 
 sincerely hoped, on my return, I should not be 
 dazzled by the acquisition of so much glory and 
 power as his good nature and condescension 
 would necessarily confer upon me ! 
 
 As soon as I had done speaking, a loud noise 
 was heard of peals of laughter, cracking of fingers, 
 whistling, and clapping of hands, proceeding 
 from the quarter in which the princesses of the 
 blood were huddled together, who took the op- 
 portunity my silence afforded them, of expressing 
 the rapture they felt at the hope of my so soon 
 becoming their near relative, and of a white man 
 superintending the domestic policy of their go- 
 vernment, and leading their countrymen to battle 
 and to victory. The favourite queen, who was 
 present at the interview, as soon as the tumult 
 had subsided, begged me to bring her a looking- 
 glass from England ; and Ebo, the fat eunuch, 
 who was also present, evinced not the least spark 
 of jealousy, but hinted that a good sword from 
 the same country would be more than acceptable ;
 
 AUTHOR'S SUGGESTION. 227 
 
 whilst Mansolah, the heroic prince of all the 
 Yaribeans, was so much overpowered at the 
 very idea of my becoming his son-in-law, that 
 he stood moping and whimpering by himself, 
 deprived of the power of asking for a single 
 favour ! 
 
 An Englishman, tired of his country, would 
 be delighted with Yariba, for it is a fine king- 
 dom, peopled with a mild, affectionate, and 
 unassuming race, by whom he would be regarded 
 almost as a deity, and amongst whom he could 
 end his days with pleasure. At the decease of 
 the reigning monarch, with very little art, and, 
 I may venture to say, no opposition, he might 
 cause himself to be proclaimed king, and thus 
 be sultan of the mighty empire of Yariba ! 
 Becoming familiar with the usages of his sable 
 subjects, with two pieces of cannon he might 
 drive every Falatah out of his dominions, and 
 restore the kingdom to its ancient splendour. 
 But above all things, if he felt so inclined, the 
 slave-trade, by his influence and example, would 
 gradually be abhorred by his subjects, who, 
 if they saw that their monarch professed the same
 
 228 AFRICAN NAMES. 
 
 principles, would besides eagerly embrace the 
 mild and simple precepts of the Christian reli- 
 gion. The people of Katunga had become so 
 familiarized to me during my residence amongst 
 them, that I had ceased to excite that intense 
 curiosity displayed on my first arrival; and, 
 next to their sovereign, I was treated with the 
 highest respect by all ranks and ages, and inter- 
 rupted in long rambles only by prostrations, and 
 other demonstrations of veneration, peculiar to 
 the Yaribeans. 
 
 The names of towns in Africa, as well as of 
 individuals, have something descriptive and sig- 
 nificant in them; for instance Wow IVtow, 
 a great fool ; InguazhilUgee, ferry-boat ; 
 Bottssa, a r:ind of ale ; Futtinduskie, a white 
 stone; Kassagebubba, a large fowl, &c. &c. 
 Slaves are called by all manner of names ; some- 
 times from any singularity in their appearance, 
 or defect in their understandings and some- 
 times by terms expressive of abhorrence or con- 
 tempt ; but much more frequently they have 
 the names of birds, beasts, or reptiles, bestowed 
 upon them by their masters, thus one is called
 
 AUTHOR QUITS KATUNGA. 229 
 
 simply " woman vulture," or " man vulture ;" 
 "woman snake," or " man snake;" and Pasko's 
 Soccatoo wife was generally known by the ele- 
 gant appellation of " woman elephant;" whilst 
 others are distinguished by the name of a certain 
 river, tree, mountain, or other natural object. 
 
 I remained at Katunga nearly a month, ex- 
 periencing every species of friendship and good 
 nature from its inhabitants; and on the 21st, 
 when I intimated my desire to pursue my journey 
 to the sea-coast, Mansolah sent me four thousand 
 cowries, with a quantity of trona to sell on the 
 road. The king also ordered his head messen- 
 gers to accompany me, commanding them to 
 desire the chiefs of every town through which 
 the main path lay, to contribute, according to 
 their ability, to the support of myself and at- 
 tendants ; which command we afterwards found 
 on various occasions to be eminently serviceable. 
 
 The following morning early, I paid my re- 
 spects to the prince, and having taken an affec- 
 tionate leave of him, once more continued my 
 course, in good spirits, and better health than I 
 had enjoyed for a long period previously. Jour-
 
 230 GRAVE OF CAPT. PEARCE. 
 
 neying till the 8th of November, and meeting 
 with few incidents worth relating, we arrived at 
 Engwa, the town in which it will be recollected 
 Captain Pearce died and was buried, on his way 
 to Katunga. I found the railing and fence, which 
 had been placed round the grave, washed away 
 by the rains, and the piece of wood, on which 
 I had engraved his name, &c., had disappeared, 
 most probably from a similar cause. The only 
 means by which I was enabled to recognize the 
 spot, was the circumstance of the earth over the 
 grave having sunk considerably, and being quite 
 destitute of vegetation, whilst the soil near it 
 was covered with luxuriant herbage. The chief 
 told me that having received no orders to repair 
 the damage, occasioned by the floods, he had 
 suffered the fence to fall to decay ; but, at my 
 own suggestion, he promised to erect a shed over 
 the spot as soon as the sun had dried the grass. 
 I made him a trifling present to encourage him 
 in his intention, and preparations for that pur- 
 pose had already commenced previously to my 
 departure from Engwa. 
 
 Leaving Tschow, a day's journey on the Ka-
 
 A ROBBERY. 231 
 
 tunga side of Jannah, on the llth, I met, a few 
 miles only from the town, a gaffle of merchants, 
 hastening with the utmost speed and confusion 
 towards it. They suddenly stopped on perceiv- 
 ing me, and a great number of them bawled 
 out at the same moment, that they had been 
 attacked by a band of robbers, who had over- 
 come them, carrying off all their goods; and 
 that if I did not go back to Tschow, with them, 
 I should be murdered in a few moments, as the 
 desperadoes were close at their heels. Instead 
 of returning, however, I entreated them to go 
 on with me, assuring them that with their assist- 
 ance, the property, of which they had been so 
 unlawfully deprived, should be recovered, and 
 restored within half an hour; but the timid 
 merchants, being afraid to expose their persons 
 to so imminent a danger, politely declined the 
 invitation, on the plea of being too much fa- 
 tigued. My party consisted only of ten indivi- 
 duals, four of whom were women, and all un- 
 armed, with the exception of Pasko and myself, 
 who were furnished with a damaged pistol and 
 an old rusty musket, borrowed of the king of
 
 232 ROBBERS DECEIVED. 
 
 Katunga. With these weapons I resolved to 
 proceed on the road at all hazards, and had the 
 good fortune, about twenty minutes afterwards, 
 to come in sight of the so much dreaded ban- 
 ditti. They were seated on the grass, dividing 
 their ill-gotten spoil, and appeared to take no 
 notice of me till I came within fifty or sixty 
 yards of the spot, when, desiring Pasko to fire, 
 I struck spurs into the horse's sides, making him 
 gallop with great swiftness, and the path being 
 rocky and hollow, the sound produced seemed 
 as if a thousand horses were prancing over the 
 ground. At that moment, discharging my pis- 
 tol, I completed the general consternation of 
 the highwaymen, who, without looking behind 
 them, fled in all directions, and concealed them- 
 selves in some rank grass, that was growing at 
 a short distance, to the height of nine or ten 
 feet, leaving their booty behind them, which 
 consisted of upwards of three hundred pounds 
 of salt, besides country cloth, cowries, &c. ; and 
 the captured articles, by the laws of the country, 
 thus became my own property. 
 
 The merchants who had, unknown to me,
 
 GRAVE OF DR. MORRISON. 233 
 
 followed at a respectful distance, as soon as they 
 saw the utter discomfiture of the thieves, made 
 their appearance, and asserted, with a most 
 amusing solemnity, that having determined to 
 share my good or bad fortune, they were mak- 
 ing all haste to my assistance, when the free- 
 booters, by their precipitate, and to them un- 
 lucky retreat, had prevented them from dis- 
 playing the courage which animated every 
 bosom. I accepted their courtly apology, and 
 praised their heroic resolution, but being deter- 
 mined not to give them the value of a single 
 cowry, ordered my party to return with the 
 captured goods to Tschow. The chief of that 
 town himself purchased the different articles, 
 and Pasko and his companions divided the 
 money equally among themselves, I having re- 
 fused to accept of any, although urged to take 
 the whole. 
 
 In the afternoon of the same day we arrived 
 at Jannah, and instantly visited the grave of 
 Dr. Morrison, which I found in a perfect con- 
 dition. The king was to have been rewarded 
 by Mr. Houtson, for preserving the fence which
 
 231 SON OF MUNGO PARK. 
 
 surrounded it, from decay ; but that gentleman 
 having himself died near Accra, on his return to 
 the coast, the monarch had received no acknow- 
 ledgment for his trouble till my arrival at Jan- 
 nah, when I fully satisfied his demands. 
 
 On the 13th the horses which the kings of 
 Wow Wow and Khiama had given me, both 
 died, and the one I had left was in a weak and 
 diseased state. 
 
 The son of Mr. Park, the celebrated African 
 traveller, died in a small town two days' journey 
 in the interior from Accra, only three days be- 
 fore my arrival on the coast. I first ascertained 
 his name by reason of a shirt sent in mistake for 
 one of my own which I had given a female to 
 wash, "Thomas Park," being marked in legible 
 characters at the bottom. This young English- 
 man, on coming into the country, used no pre- 
 cautions with regard to the preservation of his 
 health, but, adopting the habits of the people 
 with whom he mingled, anointed his head and 
 body with clay and oil, ate unreservedly the 
 food of the natives, and exposed himself, with
 
 BADAGRY. 235 
 
 scarcely any clothing, to the heat of the sun by 
 clay, and the influence of the pernicious dews 
 by night, in consequence whereof, as might 
 have been expected, he was attacked with fever, 
 which put an end to his existence after a very 
 short illness. Mr. Thomas Park had formed the 
 pious resolution of discovering the spot where 
 his intrepid father had met his fate, and of ascer- 
 taining, if possible, the cause and manner of his 
 death; in which attempt he was defeated only 
 by his own dissolution. Had the young gen- 
 tleman survived a few days longer, I could have 
 fully satisfied him in these particulars, and given 
 him directions, in case of his recovery, for pro- 
 ceeding to the island of Boussa. 
 
 On the 21st of November we entered Bada- 
 gry, having been a month on the road from 
 Katunga ; and I am compelled to acknowledge 
 that in no town were we received with unkind- 
 ness, the people every where welcoming us back 
 again with vociferous expressions of pleasure. 
 Sometimes indeed, particularly between Jannah 
 and Badagry, they howled so dreadfully on
 
 236 BADAGRY. 
 
 seeing me, that the horse on which I rode 
 trembled with fear; but this was the means 
 which the natives took to congratulate me on 
 my safe return. Adolee the king of Badagry, was 
 glad to see me, and resigned his mansion (con- 
 structed of bamboo, and two stories in height) 
 to me, whilst he contented himself with a small 
 miserable hut, in which he took up his residence. 
 Like every other prince in Africa, he was 
 grieved to learn the decease of Captain Clap- 
 perton, and expressed his sorrow in a feeling 
 manner. I gave his majesty my little horse, 
 which had accompanied me the whole of the 
 way from Soccatoo, together with all the ar- 
 ticles for presents that were left, consisting of 
 light blue scarlet damask, scarlet and blue silk, 
 and two dozen pairs of cotton stockings. A 
 week after my arrival, I waited on Captain 
 Morrison, a Portuguese slave merchant, and 
 obtained of him goods, the value of which 
 amounted to ninety-four dollars, with a barrel 
 of gunpowder, which I paid for myself. With 
 these presents I dismissed the messengers of the
 
 BADAGRY. 237 
 
 kings of Jannah and Katunga, whom I could 
 not afford to maintain any longer in provisions, 
 and they returned to their respective sovereigns 
 in high spirits. 
 
 8 oi b& 
 
 .sid to ^iuiiw 
 
 -in ^!l} (ifi il 
 
 /. .^mit^oj* aoljoa. /la.-feiiwj aoioi* o'tn .bst 
 <iuij{iiJ no. i^jifij'ff' I, fijr/rafi . ^m is/ifi 
 a'/fcfe ..aiajjuJwH., * 
 
 rtill W: 3 ^ 
 
 ,iwll^ to ^saasasatstiij; JJ98uuiiib I ai
 
 238 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 NoTcl method adopted by Europeans for conveying slaves on 
 board their vessels Conduct of the Portuguese Merchants, 
 resident at Badagry, towards the Author The White Ne- 
 groes Manners and Ceremonies of the Badagrians Horrid 
 indifference with respect to the shedding of Human Blood 
 Murder of two of the King's wives by moonlight. 
 
 BY reason of the vigilance of British men-of- 
 war on the coast, merchants are obliged to use 
 much greater caution than formerly, for eluding 
 observation, and embarking their purchased 
 slaves. The plan now generally adopted is as 
 follows : as soon as a vessel arrives at her place 
 of destination, the crew discharge her light 
 cargo, with the manacles intended for the slaves, 
 and land the captain at the same time. The 
 vessel then cruises along the coast to take in 
 country cloth, ivory, a little gold dust, &c. ; and, 
 if a British man-of-war be near, the crew having
 
 SLAVE TRADE. 239 
 
 nothing on board to excite suspicion, in most 
 cases contrive to get their vessel searched whilst 
 trading with the natives. At such time as they 
 fancy their presence would be necessary, they re- 
 turn to the place where the cargo had been 
 landed, and communicate with the captain on 
 shore, who, during their absence had not been 
 idle ; and who then takes the opportunity of ac- 
 quainting his crew with the exact time in which 
 he will be in readiness to embark. The vessel 
 then cruises a second time up and down the 
 coast, till the appointed day approaches, when 
 she proceeds to take in her living cargo. 
 
 Immediately on sight of her every canoe for 
 miles near is put in requisition by the captain ; 
 provisions and water are speedily conveyed on 
 board ; and last of all, the wretched slaves are 
 dragged forcibly towards the boats, and received 
 by the European crew, who, as soon as this is 
 effected, crowd all sail, and the vessel quickly 
 disappears. I saw four hundred slaves at Ba- 
 dagry crammed into a small schooner of eighty 
 tons; and the appearance of these unhappy human 
 beings was squalid and miserable in the ex-
 
 240 SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 treme. They were fastened by the neck in 
 pairs, only a quarter of a yard of chain being 
 allowed for each, and driven to the beach by a 
 parcel of hired scoundrels, whilst their asso- 
 ciates in cruelty were in front of the party, 
 pulling them along by a narrow band, their 
 only apparel, which encircled the waist. 
 
 On leaving their native shore in the canoes, 
 the wretched slaves set up a wild and dismal 
 lament, which rent the air, and might have 
 been heard at a considerable distance ; but their 
 tears failed to soften the hearts of the re- 
 lentless Christians, who huddled them hastily 
 into the hold of their vessel; and the cries of the 
 Africans were heard no more. 
 
 Captain Morrison was the only Portuguese in 
 the town that behaved with even common civility 
 to me; the others, seven or eight in number, 
 evidently viewed me with suspicion and alarm, 
 and actively exerted themselves to persuade 
 Adolee and his people that it would be necessary 
 to destroy me, asserting that I was a spy sent by 
 the English Government, and if suffered to leave 
 the city, would return with numbers of my coun-
 
 CONDUCT OF THE PORTUGUESE. 241 
 
 trymen, and enslave its inhabitants. What suc- 
 cess these insinuations met with, will hereafter be 
 related; but in the mean time these very men 
 kept up an outward show of friendship and 
 esteem for me during a long period, and strove 
 all in their power to lull suspicion asleep, by 
 endeavouring to strengthen the favourable 
 opinion they flattered themselves I entertained 
 for their merits ; and, by apparent frankness of 
 manner and openness of conduct, to do away 
 any evil impression which the rumour of their 
 clandestine practices might have awakened in 
 my bosom. But although I maintained the 
 profoundest taciturnity on the subject, I was 
 perfectly well acquainted with the whole of their 
 manoeuvring, and prepared to encounter it in 
 whatever way it might at first annoy me. 
 
 Amongst other things, the Portuguese at 
 Badagry earnestly entreated me to sell my 
 poor slaves, and offered ninety-five dollars 
 for each of them ; but of course I rejected 
 their proposal with the contempt it merited. 
 I went to see one of these slave-merchants 
 one day by special invitation : he was at 
 
 VOL. II. M
 
 242 CONDUCT OF THE PORTUGUESE. 
 
 breakfast on my entering his hut ; and wheaten 
 rolls and tea and sugar, were smoking and giv- 
 ing odour before him. I ardently wished at the 
 time to seat myself at his side, and partake of 
 the good things spread out so temptingly in my 
 sight; for I had not tasted bread for nearly 
 two years previously, nor tea or sugar for 
 eighteen months ; so that my childish propensity 
 is not to be wondered at. The Portuguese, 
 however, although he looked first at me and then 
 on his breakfast, did not seem to be in a hurry 
 to invite me to share it with him : so, fancying 
 he felt some delicacy and bashfulness about the 
 matter, which his eyes seemed to confirm, I was 
 preparing very unceremoniously to help myself, 
 but thought I might as well in the first place ask 
 his permission. This I did in the best-tempered 
 manner in the world ; but the surly, ill-natured 
 European, dropping the tea he was conveying 
 to his lips, almost frightened me out of my wits, 
 by exclaiming, " Stay your hand for a moment, 
 if you please, Mr. Englishman ; you have three 
 fine slaves in your possession, for each of whom 
 I will immediately pay you a hundred dollars,
 
 CONDUCT OF THE PORTUGUESE. 243 
 
 and also send you as many wheaten cakes as will 
 serve you for a twelvemonth; but, unless you 
 consent to this proposal, you will have neither 
 rolls nor tea of mine, I assure you." I could 
 not think of gratifying my appetite at the ex- 
 pense of my poor slaves, the faithful companions 
 of my pilgrimage; so concealing, as well as I was 
 able, the disappointment I could not help feel- 
 ing, I arose, and bestowing on the Portuguese 
 the epithets of a heartless, unfeeling scoundrel, 
 hastily quitted his inhospitable roof, and re- 
 paired to my own dwelling. There I break- 
 fasted more contentedly on a little boiled In- 
 dian corn, mixed with palm-oil and water, my 
 usual fare, than if I had enjoyed all the luxuries 
 in the world by wounding my conscience, and 
 doing violence to the best feelings of my nature. 
 The same individual, however, three days after, 
 sent me a loaf of bread and a cheese, with a 
 bottle of English porter, articles of which I had 
 dreamt repeatedly in the interior, but of which 
 I never expected to partake in Africa. The 
 merchant held out the same inducements as be- 
 fore to obtain my slaves ; but although I obsti- 
 
 M2
 
 244 CONDUCT OF THE PORTUGUESE. 
 
 nately refused to accede to his reiterated request, 
 I could not, for the life of me, resist the strong 
 temptation I felt to claim a more familiar ac- 
 quaintance with the presents placed so pro- 
 vokingly within my reach ; and instead of re- 
 turning them, which was to be the consequence 
 of my refusal, I desired the bearer to acquaint his 
 master with my high admiration of his noble 
 conduct, and my extreme gratitude for a favour 
 so unexpected and undeserved on my part ; but 
 to add, that, being determined not to be outdone 
 by him in acts of generosity, I should take the 
 liberty, on the arrival of a British vessel on the 
 coast, of returning the compliment by a suitable 
 acknowledgment. 
 
 My decided determination not to part with 
 my slaves for any consideration, and the answer 
 the messeuger delivered to the slave -dealer, so 
 greatly exasperated both him and the whole of 
 the Portuguese in the place, that on meeting me 
 in the streets, they used to pour out, in broken 
 English, a whole volley of oaths and curses ; and 
 took care not to bestow on me further proofs of 
 their good nature and benevolence, till the ar-
 
 WHITE AFRICANS. 245 
 
 rival of the brig Maria of London at Badagry 
 again opened the sluices of their amiable and 
 charitable feelings, and I was favoured a second 
 time with a present, yet more acceptable than 
 the first, which was sent on condition that I 
 would not make my countrymen acquainted 
 with the fact of any Portuguese being in the 
 town. 
 
 I saw two milk white negroes, male and fe- 
 male, with red hair and eyes, on my return from 
 the interior ; the one at Tschow, and the other 
 at Badagry. Having examined their bodies 
 pretty minutely, I am confident that they la- 
 boured under no disease whatever ; indeed they 
 told me themselves that they entered the world 
 in the condition in which I beheld them. Nei- 
 ther of these unsightly individuals appeared to 
 attract a large portion of the curiosity of their 
 sable countrymen ; nor did their singular and 
 loathsome appearance excite in their breasts any 
 emotion of horror or disgust. The skin of these 
 white Africans was by no means like that of a 
 fair European, having a much paler and more
 
 246 SHOCKING CATASTROPHE. 
 
 unearthly hue ; but without tumours or scrofu- 
 lous affection of any kind. 
 
 I had retired to rest rather earlier than usual 
 one evening, being greatly fatigued, when about 
 the midnight hour a loud, long, and piercing 
 shriek awoke me with a start, and springing 
 hastily from my couch, I turned aside the slight 
 mat which served instead of glass for my win- 
 dow, to ascertain the cause of it. The moon 
 shone in the heavens with peculiar lustre and 
 beauty, rivalling in splendour the brilliant orb 
 whence she receives her light, so that I was 
 enabled to distinguish clearly every object for 
 some distance from the hut. Another fearful 
 scream at the moment arrested my undivided 
 attention upon a group of persons about ten or 
 twelve yards from my window, in the midst of 
 whom I could perceive two females struggling 
 violently to get loose from the iron gripe with 
 which they were held by their merciless guardi- 
 ans. I called as loudly as I could to the fellows, 
 (who, as well as the perturbation of my mind, 
 and the confusion of the scene would allow me 
 to discern, were eight in number,) to demand the
 
 SHOCKING CATASTROPHE. 247 
 
 reason of their ill-treatment of the defenceless 
 women at that unseasonable hour, when one of 
 them answered with the greatest unconcern, that 
 the females whom I saw were the King's wives, 
 who, having spoken their mind with too much 
 frankness in the royal presence an hour before, 
 had been ordered by their husband to make ex- 
 piation for the offence by having their throats 
 cut, that being considered as the mildest punish- 
 ment which could be inflicted for the consum- 
 mation of so heinous a crime, by the laws of Ba- 
 dagry ; a punishment which none but Adolee's 
 favourites ever underwent ! Whilst the man was 
 yet speaking, the trembling criminals shrieked 
 long and bitterly; but from exhaustion their 
 struggles were less vehement than before. At 
 length I saw their hands bound, next their feet ; 
 and lastly their heads, bent forcibly backwards, 
 by four of the ruffians, were held tightly by the 
 hair in that painful position. I then heard the 
 poor creatures utter their last thrilling cry of 
 anguish, which caused my blood to run cold in 
 my veins, and a shudder to creep over every 
 limb ; and at that moment, the gleam of the up-
 
 248 SHOCKING CATASTROPHE. 
 
 lifted daggers shot across my vision, and as 
 quick as lightning the poinards were buried in 
 the throat and bosom of each, severing the wind- 
 pipe in their course. A faint gargling sound 
 like water issuing from the mouth of a bottle, 
 was the only noise produced; the ruthless as- 
 sassins glided like spectres from before my win- 
 dow, trailing their bleeding victims along the 
 earth; and all was as still and solemn as the 
 grave, the moon alone (to my imagination) blush- 
 ing to be a spectatress of the atrocious deed. 
 
 As soon as this bloody tragedy had been 
 enacted, the spell that had bound me motionless 
 to the window, dissolved, and, flinging myself 
 on my mat, I endeavoured to obtain a little re- 
 pose, and calm the agitation of my mind ; but 
 the dreadful scene I had witnessed awakened a 
 host of phantoms in my disordered imagination, 
 and obliged me to walk to arid from the apart- 
 ment till the morning, when, on taking a stroll 
 through the town, my eyes were saluted with 
 the revolting spectacle of the murdered women 
 hanging on the branches of the fetish-tree ! 
 
 The manners and ceremonies of the Bada-
 
 CRUELTIES AT BADAGRY. 249 
 
 grians, although they appeared so simple and 
 engaging to us whilst we continued amongst 
 them, on first leaving the Brazen, are without 
 comparison the most rude and barbarous of 
 those of any of the people on the whole conti- 
 nent of Africa. The murder of a slave is not 
 considered even in the light of a misdemeanor 
 amongst them; and the frequency of this crime 
 has not only taken away all sense of its enor- 
 mity, but steeled the breasts of the multitude 
 against every compassionate feeling; whilst the 
 king and government encourage savage princi- 
 ples and pastimes by setting them the example. 
 The following particulars were gleaned prin- 
 cipally from personal observation, whilst I re- 
 mained in that city of blood, called by the in- 
 habitants Badag (or Woman) ; and, in the ab- 
 sence of that source, from repeated conversations 
 held with the king, his eldest son, and his great 
 chiefs or generals, Bombanee, Poser, and Accra. 
 whom I questioned separately, and at different 
 periods, concerning the celebration of their sa- 
 crifices and other religious rites. I found no 
 discrepancies whatever in the information thus 
 M 5 #
 
 250 CRUELTIES AT BADAGRY. 
 
 obtained ; and, after I bad swallowed the fetish, 
 the before-named individuals communicated 
 freely, and without suspicion, any thing con- 
 nected with their religion or manners that I 
 evinced the slightest wish to have explained. 
 
 Badagry being a general mart for the sale of 
 slaves to European merchants, (who are now, I 
 believe, almost exclusively confined to agents 
 belonging to the Portuguese nation,) it not un- 
 frequently happens that the market is either 
 overstocked with human beings, or no buyers 
 are to be found ; in which case the maintenance 
 of the unhappy slaves devolves solely on the go- 
 vernment. The expense incurred by this means 
 is oftentimes murmured against by the king, 
 who shortly afterwards causes an examination 
 to be made, when the sickly, as well as the old 
 and infirm, are carefully selected, and chained 
 by themselves in one of the factories, (five of 
 which, containing upwards of one thousand 
 slaves of both sexes, were at Badagry during 
 my residence there,) and next day the ma- 
 jority of these poor wretches are pinioned, and 
 conveyed to the banks of the river that runs
 
 CRUELTIES AT BADAGRY. 251 
 
 up the country, where, having arrived, a 
 weight of some sort is appended to their necks, 
 and, being rowed in canoes to the middle of 
 the stream, they are flung into the water, 
 and left to perish by the pitiless Badagrians. 
 Slaves who, for other reasons, are rejected by 
 the merchants, undergo the same punishment, 
 or are left to endure more lively torture at the 
 sacrifices : by which means hundreds of human 
 beings are annually destroyed.
 
 252 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 
 The Fetish-huts and tree at Fadagry Owing to the insinuations 
 of the Portugu-se the Author is compelled by the priests of 
 the Fetish, to swallow bitter water, being the only European 
 that ever underwent that dreadful ordeal His reflections 
 when informed of the circumstance Astonishing preserva- 
 tion from an expected cruel death Sacrifices of human beings 
 under the branches of the Fetish-tree, exceeding in atrocity all 
 previous accounts Song of the inhabitants with Addlee at 
 their head, ou the occasion The Author, on his visit to a 
 Portuguese pirate, discovers the sacred Fetish-tree of the 
 Badagrians growing in the heart of a forest, and covered with 
 the dismembered corpses of human beings Remarks on the 
 Portuguese. 
 
 IN the private fetish-hut of the King Adolee, 
 at Badagry, the skull of that monarch's father is 
 preserved in a clay vessel, placed in the earth. 
 Human blood, as well as the blood of birds and 
 beasts, is occasionally sprinkled on it; and when 
 the king goes to war, that same skull is invariably 
 carried with him, with which he frequently con-
 
 FETISH-HUTS. 253 
 
 verses, and gently rebukes it, if his success does 
 not happen to answer his expectations. " If this 
 custom be neglected," said Adolee, " the virtues 
 and martial energy of my deceased father would 
 cease to influence my actions, and defeat and 
 disgrace would attend all my warlike undertak- 
 ings." The people of Baclagry regard this skull 
 with the same veneration as the Turks do the 
 sacred banner of their Prophet; and believe, that 
 should it be missed through any casualty, or cap- 
 tured by the enemy, the destiny of their prince 
 would be sealed for ever, and the pillars of their 
 monarchy crumble into dust, so that they would 
 no longer be a people ! 
 
 There is another fetish-hut at Badagry, the 
 interior of which is positively ornamented with 
 rows of human skulls, and other emblems of 
 mortality, whitened by time, and having a most 
 terrific appearance. In this Pagan sanctuary all 
 suspected persons go through the ordeal of bitter 
 (poisonous) water, in order to ascertain their 
 guilt or innocence ; and death, which in almost 
 all cases ensues shortly after the prisoner re- 
 ceives the fatal draught into his stomach, is
 
 254 FETISH-HUTS, &C. 
 
 considered by the people as a sure criterion of 
 the former ; whilst, if the culprit has the good 
 fortune to escape with life, which rarely happens, 
 he is pronounced free of the allegations brought 
 against him, and immediately acquitted. 
 
 At a short distance from this gloomy hut 
 stands a fetish-tree, on the branches of which the 
 headless bodies of human beings, slaughtered 
 under them, are invariably suspended. 
 
 I did not think, as I strolled one day to the 
 spot, and scrutinized the exterior of the fetish- 
 hut, that I myself was so shortly to enter its 
 doors, and be tried with bitter water by its inex- 
 orable priests, in order to prove whether I was a 
 good or bad man, a friend or foe to their nation ! 
 
 But the calumnies of the Portuguese had re- 
 cently begun to display their effects very strik- 
 ingly ; Adolee had latterly behaved in a cold 
 and distant manner to me ; and his chiefs stu- 
 diously shunned my presence whenever they ob- 
 served me approaching them. 
 
 One morning, as I was taking my solitary 
 breakfast of palm oil and Indian corn, I was 
 startled by a message from the king, command-
 
 ADOLEE'S MESSAGE. 255 
 
 ing me to repair at noon-tide to the fetish-hut, 
 and be examined by the priests, who would be 
 there assembled, to answer certain charges that 
 would be brought against me. I was well aware 
 in what manner my trial was to be conducted ; 
 and I could not forbear exclaiming to myself, as 
 I mused on the dreadful fate which I imagined 
 awaited me : " Well, then, here will be an end 
 to my wanderings and my life ; yet, having es- 
 caped so many dangers, and encountered such 
 grievous afflictions, it is hard, after all, to cast 
 off the fardel of existence thus prematurely; 
 it is hard, when almost within hearing of my 
 countrymen, that my life should be destroyed ; 
 that my skull should be preserved as a tro- 
 phy by heartless savages, and my body be de- 
 voured by ravens and other birds of prey." As 
 I was making this saddening, and perhaps un- 
 manly soliloquy, tears rushed involuntarily into 
 my eyes, but, hastily wiping them off, I employed 
 the little time allotted me in making my peace 
 with Heaven, so that when the fellows came to 
 conduct me to the fetish-hut, I was calm and 
 collected, and prepared to undergo the severest
 
 256 AUTHOR EXPOSED TO TRIAL. 
 
 punishment which the power of man could in- 
 flict upon me. 
 
 The news of the white man's arrest, and ap- 
 proaching trial, spread like wild-fire through 
 the town, and the inhabitants, assembling from 
 all parts, armed with axes, spears, clubs, and 
 bows and arrows, followed the procession to the 
 dismal spot. On entering the hut, I beheld a 
 number of priests and elders of the people, 
 seated in a circle, who desired me to stand in 
 the midst of them. When I had complied with 
 their request, one of the priests arose, and pre- 
 senting me with a bowl, containing about a 
 quart of a clear liquid, scarcely distinguishable 
 from water, cried out in a loud voice, and with 
 much emphasis, " You are accused, white man, 
 of designs against our king and his government, 
 and are therefore desired to drink the contents 
 of this vessel, which, if the reports to your preju- 
 dice be true, will surely destroy you ; whereas, 
 if they be without foundation, you need not fear, 
 Christian ; the fetish will do you no injury, for 
 our gods will do that which is right."
 
 THE ORDEAL BY POISON. 
 
 257 
 
 I took the bowl in my trembling hand, and 
 gazed for a moment on the sable countenances of 
 my judges ; but not a single look of compassion 
 shone upon any of them ; a dead silence prevailed 
 in the gloomy sanctuary of skulls ; every eye was 
 intently fixed upon me ; and seeing no possibility 
 of escape, or of evading the piercing glance of 
 the priests and elders, I offered up, internally, 
 a short prayer to the Throne of Mercy, ^to 
 the God of Christians, and hastily swallowed 
 the fetish, dashing the poison-chalice to the 
 ground. A low murmur ran through the assem- 
 
 VOL. II. M 9
 
 258 THE ORDEAL BY POISON. 
 
 bly; they all thought I should instantly have 
 expired, or at least have discovered symptoms of 
 severe agony, but detecting no such tokens, they 
 arose simultaneously, and made way for me to 
 leave the hut. On getting into the open air, I 
 found my poor slaves in tears ; they had come, 
 they said, to catch a last glimpse of their mas- 
 ter ; but when they saw me alive and at liberty, 
 they leaped and danced for joy, and prepared a 
 path for me through the dense mass of armed 
 people. These set up an astounding shout at 
 my unexpected appearance, and seemed greatly 
 pleased, (if I might be allowed to judge,) that I 
 had not fallen a victim to the influence of their 
 fearful fetish. On arriving at my dwelling, I 
 took instant and powerful means to eject the 
 venomous potion from my stomach, and happily 
 succeeded in the attempt. 
 
 I was told that the liquid I had swallowed was 
 a decoction of the bark of a tree abounding in 
 the neighbourhood, and that I was the only in- 
 dividual who, for a long season, had escaped its 
 poisonous qualities. It had a disagreeably bit- 
 ter taste, but I experienced no other ill effects 
 from it than a slight dizziness, which wore off
 
 RESULTS OF THE ORDEAL. 259 
 
 completely a few hours after the conclusion of 
 the trial. 
 
 The dreadful charm having been thus pro- 
 videntially broken, all the cold reserve and 
 stiffness of Adolee and his chiefs suddenly dis- 
 appeared ; and they visited me voluntarily a few 
 days afterwards with presents of provisions, &c. 
 observing frequently that the Portuguese were 
 wicked men, but that I was a good man, under 
 the special protection of the white man's God, 
 who would suffer no evil to come near me. 
 The Houssa mallams were also permitted to in- 
 troduce themselves into my society ; neither did 
 they come empty-handed, so that I scarcely re- 
 gretted having drunk the fetish ; for instead of 
 suffering and death, from which I had not en- 
 tertained even a hope of escaping, the most 
 pleasing and flattering results were the conse- 
 quence of my conforming to the customs of the 
 inhabitants. On walking through the streets I 
 was pointed at as the wonderful man, whom it 
 would be dangerous to insult ; my society was 
 courted by all ranks ; and from that hour my 
 reputation stood singularly high with the peo- 
 ple of Badagry, to the infinite chagrin of the
 
 260 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 malicious Portuguese, who thus saw the com- 
 plete failure of their artfully laid plot, by the 
 very means which they had fondly hoped would 
 have been the instruments of my destruction. 
 
 Thieves, and other offenders, together with the 
 remnant of the unpurchased slaves who are not 
 drowned along with their companions in misfor- 
 tune and misery, are reserved by the Badagrians 
 to sacrifice to their gods; which horrid ceremony 
 takes place at least once a month. Prisoners 
 taken in war are also immolated, to appease the 
 manes of the soldiers of Adolee slain in battle ; 
 and as, of all atrocities, the manner in which 
 these wretches are slaughtered is the most bar- 
 barous, it may not perhaps be improper or ill- 
 timed to give a detailed account of it in this 
 place. Each criminal being conducted to the 
 fetish- tree, a flask of rum is given him to drink, 
 whilst he is in the act of swallowing which 
 a fellow steals imperceptibly behind him, with a 
 heavy club or bludgeon, and inflicts a violent 
 blow on the back of the head with the murder- 
 ous weapon, and, as it often happens, dashes 
 out his brains ; so that the executioner has no 
 occasion to repeat his stroke. The senseless
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 261 
 
 being is then taken to the fetish-hut, and a cala- 
 bash or gourd having been previously got ready, 
 the head is severed from the trunk with an axe, 
 and the smoking blood gurgles into it. Whilst 
 this is in hand, other wretches, furnished with 
 knives, &c. cut and mangle the body, in order 
 to extract the heart entire from the breast, 
 which being done, although it be yet warm and 
 quivering with life, it is presented to the king 
 first, and afterwards to his wives and generals, 
 who always attend at the celebration of these 
 sacrifices ; and his majesty and suite making an 
 incision in it with their teeth, and partaking of 
 the foamy blood, which is likewise offered, the 
 heart is exhibited to the surrounding multitude. 
 From the commencement of the proceedings un- 
 der the tree, the chiefs begin to sing or chaunt, 
 the king's wives and the spectators assisting and 
 joining in the chorus ; and they never cease till 
 the body, with its head, heart, and blood, is borne 
 from the spot, when the multitude themselves 
 take up the strain. The following lines will 
 serve to give an idea of the subject and nature 
 of the song used on the above occasions, which 
 seldom, if ever, varv.
 
 262 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 SONG OF THE BADAGRIANS AT THEIR HUMAN 
 SACRIFICES. 
 
 When the blow the spirit lulls, 
 
 Bear him to the " House of Skulls ; " 
 
 The calabash and gourd prepare 
 
 The knife, the axe, the bow, the spear. 
 
 Faintly sighs the gasping breath ; 
 
 Agras eye-lids close in death ! 
 
 'Tis done ! the headless trunk remains, 
 
 Bleeding from a thousand veins. 
 
 Drink the blood ! the heart-strings tear ! 
 
 Wield the club, and shake the spear ! 
 
 Chorus. 
 
 Drink the blood ! the heart-strings tear ! 
 Wield the club, and shake the spear ! 
 
 Song. 
 
 Chieftains ! where 's the foeman now ? 
 Death smiles grimly on his brow, 
 And his quarter'd limbs shall be 
 Food for vultures on our tree. 
 King Addlee's foes all must 
 Bend the neck, and kiss the dust, 
 Or, like Agra, they shall fall, 
 Snatch'd from Mercy's trembling call. 
 Drink the blood ! the heart-strings tear ! 
 W T ield the club, and shake the spear !
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 263 
 
 Who so base to turn in fight ? 
 May his spirit sink in night 
 May a curse attend his ways 
 May Misfortune blast his days ! 
 But Badagrians will not swerve ; 
 Courage thrills in every nerve. 
 Smite your foes, Badagrians ! smite ! 
 Gleaming spears resistless might 
 Bending bows the arrows' spring 
 Terror to your foemen bring. 
 Drink the blood ! the heart-strings tear ! 
 Wield the club, and shake the spear! 
 
 The bleeding heart, after being bitten by the 
 king, and his principal wives and head men, is 
 affixed to the point of a tall spear, and, with the 
 calabash of blood and headless body, paraded 
 through the town, and followed by hundreds of 
 spearmen and a dense crowd of people. Who- 
 ever may express an inclination to bite the 
 heart, or drink of the blood, has it immediately 
 presented to him for that purpose, the multitude 
 dancing, and singing : 
 
 As we gaze upon the slain, 
 . Courage mounts in every vein : 
 Hearts of iron breasts of steel 
 Bold Badagrians reveal.
 
 264 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 People, from their Dwellings: 
 Lo ! the bleeding heart appears, 
 Followed by a grove of spears ; 
 Show it here ' to me,' ' to me ;' 
 I long to taste, to feel, to see ! 
 
 Spearmen : 
 
 Yes ! your foeman's blood is warm ; 
 Trample on his ghastly form ; 
 Slake your thirst with living gore ; 
 Deeply drink ; libations pour. 
 Gods ! accept the sacrifice, 
 Of our great success the price. 
 Drink we the blood ! the heart-strings tear ! 
 Wield the club, and shake the spear ! 
 
 All the people in chorus : 
 Wield the club, and shake the spear ! 
 Drink the blood ! the heart-strings tear ! 
 Terror, terror, terror, cling 
 Round the foemen of our king ! 
 
 What remains of the heart is then flung to 
 the dogs, and the body, cut in pieces, is stuck 
 on the fetish-tree, where it is left till wholly de- 
 voured by birds of prey. 
 
 Besides these butcheries, the Badagrians 
 make a grand sacrifice, once a year, under their
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 265 
 
 sacred fetish- tree, growing in a wood, a few 
 miles from the city. These are offered to their 
 malevolent Demon, or Spirit of Evil, at whose 
 shrine hundreds of human beings are annually 
 immolated, their corpses undergoing the same 
 horrid process as that which has already been 
 described ; only in this instance they are not re- 
 moved from the spot, but quartered and hung 
 on the gigantic branches of the venerable tree; 
 and the skulls of the victims suffered to bleach 
 in the sun round the trunk of it. 
 
 By accident I had an opportunity of seeing 
 this much-talked-of tree, a day or two only 
 after the celebration of one of the grand yearly 
 sacrifices, and it was the most ghastly and ap- 
 palling object which I had ever beheld. I was 
 informed in the town one day that a Portu- 
 guese schooner had proceeded along the 
 coast towards the Bight of Benin, and was then 
 lying at Adjeedore, which is about fourteen 
 miles from Badagry. Of course I was anxious 
 to get out of the country, by any means, as 
 quickly as possible, for, as may be supposed, I 
 was heartily and completely tired of my long 
 
 VOL. II. N
 
 266 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 residence in it, and eagerly grasped at even the 
 shadow of an opportunity that promised to bring 
 about so desirable a good. I resolved, at any 
 rate, to have an interview with the captain of 
 the schooner; and, for this purpose, taking 
 Pasko and Jowdie with me, one cloudless morn- 
 ing I proceeded to Adjeedore. The path leading 
 to the place, however, winding through a thick 
 wood, and being crossed by other roads in all di- 
 rections, we struck out of the right one into ano- 
 ther ; and journeyed onwards without discover- 
 ing our error for some time afterwards. We 
 had not advanced many miles into the country 
 before our noses were saluted with the most over- 
 powering effluvia, like those exhaled from putrid 
 substances ; but, notwithstanding this warning, it 
 did not occur to me at the time that the sacred 
 fetish-tree of the Badagrians lay in that direc- 
 tion. The air became more strongly impreg- 
 nated the further we proceeded ; till at length it 
 was wholly insupportable, and I was obliged to 
 cover my mouth and nose with a thick handker- 
 chief, which relieved, in some measure, its dis- 
 agreeable effects. We had travelled in this
 
 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 267 
 
 manner, as nearly as I could guess, about half 
 way to the place of our destination, or seven 
 miles from Badagry, when the so much dreaded 
 fetish-tree suddenly burst upon my sight, its 
 enormous branches literally covered with frag- 
 ments of human bodies, and its majestic trunk 
 surrounded by irregular heaps of hideous skulls, 
 which had been suffered to accumulate for many 
 years previously. It was standing in the centre 
 of a large piece of open ground in the heart of 
 the forest ; and was actually the largest tree I 
 had ever seen. Thousands of vultures, which 
 had been scared away by our unwelcome intru- 
 sion, were yet hovering round and over their 
 disgusting food, and now and then pouncing 
 fearlessly upon a half-devoured arm or leg. Al- 
 though scenes of horror had become habitual 
 and familiar to me, my feelings, nevertheless, 
 were not entirely blunted, and I encountered a 
 more violent shock, whilst staring at the over- 
 whelming scene, than I ever before experienced. 
 I stood as if fascinated to the spot by the influence 
 of a torpedo, and stupidly gazed on the ghastly 
 spectacle before me, without the power of with- 
 N 2
 
 268 HUMAN SACRIFICES. 
 
 drawing my sight to more agreeable objects, or 
 even of moving hand or foot. 
 
 The huge branches of the fetish-tree, groaning 
 beneath their burden of human flesh and bones, 
 and sluggishly waving in consequence of the hasty 
 retreat of the birds of prey; the intenseand almost 
 insufferable heat of a vertical sun ; the intoler- 
 able odour of the corrupt corpses ; the heaps of 
 human heads, many of them apparently staring 
 at me from hollows which had once sparkled 
 with living eyes ; the awful stillness and solitude 
 of the place, disturbed only by the sighing of the 
 conscious wind through the sombre foliage, or 
 at intervals by the frightful screaming of vora- 
 cious vultures, as they flapped their sable wings 
 almost in my face all tended to overpower me ; 
 my heart sickened within my bosom, a dimness 
 came over my eyes, an irrepressible quivering 
 agitated my whole frame, my legs refused to 
 support me, and, turning my head, I fell sense- 
 less into the arms of Jowdie, my faithful slave ! 
 Pasko assisted to bear me away from the scene 
 of blood ; and the two blacks empty in a cala- 
 bash of water they had brought with them on
 
 PEDRO, THE PIRATE. 269 
 
 my head, face, and breast, I slowly revived, and 
 after a slight refreshment, pursued my journey 
 by another path. 
 
 On reaching Adjeedore, I did indeed meet with 
 the vessel I had been informed of at Badagry; but 
 the ferocious appearance of her crew startled me 
 not a little. The men were a mixture of Por- 
 tuguese and Brazilians, completely armed with 
 pistols, cutlasses, and dirks ; and each furnished 
 with a long black beard, which heightened, per- 
 haps, the fierceness of their looks. The Cap- 
 tain (Don Pedro he called himself,) received 
 me politely; and after I had made him ac- 
 quainted with my errand, which was simply to 
 ask if he had any objection to convey me and 
 my slaves to Cape Coast Castle without delay, 
 he took me into his cabin, and treated me with 
 the best his ship afforded. In the course of our 
 conversation I thought he was rather too inqui- 
 sitive as to the amount of property I had at 
 Badagry ; but this, I concluded, arose from a 
 spirit of curiosity, rather than from any other 
 reason. Every arrangement having been en- 
 tered into to the apparent satisfaction of both
 
 270 PEDRO, THE PIRATE. 
 
 parties, I shook hands with the Captain, and 
 towards evening returned to Badagry. On 
 making inquiries in the town next day, I learnt 
 from the Portuguese that the said Don Pedro 
 was a noted pirate who had infested the seas 
 for a long period previously, and that his sole 
 intention, after getting me and my property 
 on board his vessel, was to compel me to 
 " walk the plank," * and by that means secure 
 the latter to himself. Although I was dis- 
 posed to doubt the asseverations of these men, 
 who I well knew bore me no good will, yet 
 Adolee confirmed their testimony; besides which 
 I had myself heard of the existence of a pirate 
 in the neighbourhood some weeks before ; and 
 the dubious appearance of Don Pedro and his 
 bearded crew, certainly tended to strengthen 
 instead of dissipating a suspicion that the pirate 
 and the Captain were one and the same indivi- 
 dual. Agreeably to promise, Don Pedro paid 
 me a visit on, the following Monday, to ascertain 
 
 * Seamen, when captured by pirates, are sometimes compelled 
 to walk blindfolded from a board into the sea, and so left to perish. 
 This is termed " walking the plank."
 
 PEDRO, THE PIRATE. 271 
 
 how long it would be before I should be ready 
 to embark; but I frankly acquainted him with my 
 change of resolution, and my reasons for adopt- 
 ing that alteration in my intentions ; on hearing 
 which he appeared thunderstruck, and, instead 
 of attempting to clear his character of the 
 aspersion cast upon it, contented himself with 
 calling his countrymen, the Portuguese, by a 
 variety of hard names. Rising abruptly a few 
 minutes afterwards, he bade me a hasty adieu, 
 and I never saw or heard any thing more of the 
 piratical captain, Don Pedro. 
 
 I turned my thoughts with greater warmth 
 than ever to my native country, after swallowing 
 the fetish; but so effectually had the rascally 
 slave merchants performed the base part they 
 had laid down for themselves, that although I 
 repeatedly offered a tempting reward, no one 
 was found bold enough to brave their resent- 
 ment by proceeding in a canoe to Cape Coast 
 Castle, and informing my countrymen that an 
 Englishman was at Badagry. The Portuguese 
 not only shut the portal ohope in that direction, 
 but, when they found their malicious designs so
 
 272 THE AUTHOR'S MISFORTUNES. 
 
 completely counteracted, actually threatened 
 to take my life in the hearing of Adolee, who, 
 on acquainting me with the 'circumstance, said, 
 that although I bore a charmed existence as far 
 as regarded my dealing with black people, that 
 virtue did not extend to persons of the same 
 hue and religion as myself; and he therefore 
 strongly advised me never to leave my dwelling 
 unarmed, for that the Portuguese would 
 assuredly embrace the first opportunity of carry- 
 ing their menace into effect. The intensity of 
 my misfortunes had not entirely deadened the 
 principle of self-preservation that resided within 
 my bosom, particularly when so near my escape 
 from all; and the information which the king 
 gratuitously imparted to me, gave me consider- 
 able uneasiness, and filled me with groundless 
 suspicions. Damocles was not more unhappy 
 on beholding the sword suspended over his head 
 by a single hair in the palace of Dionysius, than 
 was I whilst I remained at Badagry. All was 
 apprehension and anxiety on my part; and as if 
 positive calamities hid not been enough to 
 afflict and sadden me, imaginary dangers crossed
 
 A CRITICAL SITUATION. 273 
 
 my path, and lent their aid to render my days 
 superlatively miserable. Obliged to take num- 
 berless precautions for the safety of my person, 
 I was a prey to fear and unceasing inquietude, 
 and was a stranger to a moment's ease. 
 
 I was met in the streets one day by a Portu- 
 guese, whom I considered more friendly-dis- 
 posed towards me than his vicious coadjutors ; 
 and after chatting a few minutes, he invited me 
 to go along with him to his habitation. On en- 
 tering it, I found the whole of his countrymen 
 assembled, drinking grog; and all hands ap- 
 peared to be obstreperously merry. A glass of 
 spirit was immediately poured out for my ac- 
 ceptance, which they urgently pressed me to 
 drink ; and on my refusal, I observed them lay- 
 ing their heads together, and conversing ear- 
 nestly in whispers, pointing every now and then 
 to the dirks stuck in their belts. My suspicions, 
 ever alive, immediately caught the alarm at these 
 significant proceedings ; and looking wistfully 
 round, I attempted in vain to steal unobserved 
 from the society of my disagreeable companions. 
 Seeing, therefore, no other resource, I told the 
 
 N5
 
 274 A CRITICAL SITUATION. 
 
 Portuguese, in as bold a tone as I could com- 
 mand, that my presence being required at home, 
 it was absolutely necessary that I should imme- 
 diately quit their social circle and repair thither. 
 They all arose on my making this declaration ; 
 and I saw their right hands inclining instinctively 
 towards their belts. Following their example, 
 I laid my left hand on the hilt of a dagger con- 
 cealed in my bosom, and with the other grasped 
 a loaded pistol that was appended to my waist. In 
 this manner, we eyeing each other with mutual 
 distrust, I retreated backwards out of the apart- 
 ment ; and felt the burden that had oppressed 
 me suddenly relieved, on being again at liberty. 
 I mention this little incident simply to give 
 an idea how greatly my mind was harassed by 
 a host of vexatious circumstances combined, 
 which, taken singly, would only serve as matter 
 for pleasant raillery. But whom had I to make 
 merry with at Badagry ? I looked around me 
 in vain for a single being to share my confi- 
 dence there; and my wandering mind, flung 
 back upon its own resources, encouraged only 
 perplexing doubts, vague suspicious, and sad-
 
 AUTHOR'S REFLECTIONS. 275 
 
 dening reflections to arise within me, and caused 
 me to misconstrue every word and deed of both 
 friends and enemies ; in fact it was utterly im- 
 possible to prevent such unpleasant sensations 
 having considerable influence over all my 
 thoughts and actions. 

 
 276 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 Captain Laing, of the brig Maria, of London, hearing that an 
 Englishman is at Badagry, comes from Whydah to fetch the 
 Author His reflections on leaving Badagry, and on reaching 
 the British vessel The Maria sails for Cape Coast, where the 
 Author lands, and is taken on board the Esk sloop of war, 
 which vessel sails for England Tale of the turtles Arrival 
 in England, &c. 
 
 I HAD heard it rumoured some days before 
 that an English vessel had been seen trading on 
 the coast, and I waited with trembling anxiety 
 and a palpitating heart till accident might make 
 her captain acquainted with the circumstance of 
 my being shut up in Badagry. My most flat- 
 tering anticipations were amply realized, for on 
 the 20th of January, two months after my ar- 
 rival, a fellow came running in breathless haste 
 towards me, with a letter and a bottle of gin 
 from the master of a British vessel then lying
 
 JOYFUL NEWS. 277 
 
 off' the town, directed to " The Englishman at 
 Badagry." No one can express the pleasure that 
 thrilled through every nerve, as I was perusing 
 lines traced by the fingers of a countryman, and 
 containing the transporting intelligence that 
 " Captain Laing,* of the brig Maria of London, 
 " hearing that a white man was resident at Ba- 
 " dagry, and strongly suspecting that he must 
 " belong to the African Mission of exploration 
 " under Captain Clapperton, had come from 
 " Whydah, and would feel pleasure, if such 
 " proved to be the case, in being serviceable to 
 " him in any manner that might be suggested, or 
 " in transporting him to a British settlement on 
 " the coast." Scarcely knowing what I did, 
 and almost beside myself with joy, I wrote a 
 hasty scrawl of thanks to the generous English- 
 man ; and, desiring Pasko and the slaves to get 
 every thing in readiness for starting immedi- 
 
 * Captain Laing, and not " Morrison," as mentioned by 
 mistake in my printed Journal, conveyed me from Badagry ; and 
 I take this opportunity of expressing my deep sense of grati- 
 tude to that gentleman, for the very handsome treatment I 
 received at his hands, and the truly British feeling he displayed 
 after receiving me on board his vessel.
 
 278 THE AUTHOR'S ESCAPE. 
 
 ately, I paid my respects to the king, and his 
 wives and chiefs, and bade them a last farewell. 
 Returning instantly to my. habitation, I left 
 the town of Badagry, and bent my way directly 
 for the beach. My heart bounded within me 
 at sight of the proud banner of my country, 
 streaming from the stately mast of the Maria ; 
 and a signal being made, a boat was without 
 loss of time despatched to my assistance. I was 
 soon on the water; and as the little bark moved 
 swiftly towards the ship, although my appear- 
 ance was pitiable in the extreme, the yards were 
 instantly ordered to be manned, and three tre- 
 mendous cheers from the throats of British sea- 
 men, welcomed me once more to the dear so- 
 ciety of my gallant countrymen. This was ra- 
 vishing melody in my ears ; it was the happiest, 
 most rapturous moment of my life. I hastily 
 climbed the sides of the vessel, and springing 
 delighted upon the conscious deck, returned 
 thanks to the Almighty for my preservation, 
 and shook hands heartily with the captain and 
 crew. But as sudden and violent transport is 
 seldom lasting, so I could not help reflecting, a
 
 INCIDENTAL REFLECTIONS. 279 
 
 very few minutes afterwards, how different, how 
 very different had been my feelings in the same 
 place about two years before ; so nearly is joy 
 allied to sorrow, pleasure to pain, cheerfulness 
 to melancholy. As a noble tree, growing in 
 strength, and flourishing in beauty, is suddenly 
 blasted by lightning, which scathes its verdant 
 foliage, and destroys the vital principle ; even so 
 had I seen a party of British officers, proud as 
 their native rocks, wither and die. They had 
 planted their feet on African soil full of fine 
 spirit and noble enthusiasm, scoffing at peril, 
 and determined to overcome every human ob- 
 stacle that might arrest their progress in the 
 accomplishment of their hazardous undertaking, 
 that great object of their ambition, to which the 
 eyes of millions were directed. A few months 
 only had elapsed, when their elevated hopes and 
 buoyant feelings were quenched in darkness ; 
 their manly frames shrivelled like the tree, from 
 irremediable causes; till, unable longer to 
 " drag their slow length along," they had lan- 
 guished and fallen, and the sound of their voices 
 was heard no more they had resigned their
 
 280 CAPE COAST. 
 
 burden of life, sorrow, and suffering ; and were 
 transplanted to that unknown country where 
 " the wicked cease from troubling, and the 
 weary are at rest." I, of all, was left to tell the 
 sorrowful tale to their countrymen. I had cer- 
 tainly cause for self-gratulation at the almost 
 miraculous preservation of my own life ; but I 
 had also matter for gloomy reflections in the 
 mournful fate of so many brave and enterpris- 
 ing British officers, who had died prematurely in 
 a savage land; and I sighed when the Maria 
 sailed from Badagry, to look back on departed 
 times, and recall the hearty, thoughtless merri- 
 ment that burst vociferously from the hearts of 
 the dauntless Englishmen an evening or two 
 preceding their landing at that place; nor 
 could I refrain from asking myself: " And 
 where is their merriment ; where is their laugh- 
 ter, now ? " 
 
 On arriving at Cape Coast, I was received in 
 the most cordial manner by the Governor, Colo- 
 nel Lumley (since dead), and the British mer- 
 chants then in the place, with whom I dined, 
 and who vied with each other in showing me
 
 CAPE COAST. 
 
 281 
 
 every mark of kindness and respect. As soon 
 as they learnt my arrival, the Houssa inhabitants 
 flocked around me, and were delighted that a 
 white man could converse with them in their own 
 language ; which feeling was infinitely increased 
 by my assuring their sceptical companions that 
 Houssa was a good land for even in the breasts 
 of these rude Africans a love of country was 
 not the least distinguishable sentiment. These 
 poor people stood with mouths open, to be in- 
 formed of what was transacting in the land of 
 their birth ; and were variously agitated, in pro- 
 portion as the accounts were of a good or bad 
 nature. 
 
 At Cape Coast I gave my faithful slaves, 
 Aboudah, Jowdie, and Pasko's wife, their free- 
 dom ; but when they were made acquainted with 
 the fact that the boon offered them was on con- 
 dition of their remaining behind, they could not 
 conceal their disappointment and regret, and 
 were unwilling to accept it, saying it was the 
 greatest evil that could befall them. They came 
 to me in a body on the morning of my depar- 
 ture, making the air ring with their lamentations;
 
 FERNANDO PO. ST. HELENA. 
 
 and, covering their heads with sand and dust, 
 they intreated me with tears to take them with 
 me to my country. I consoled the poor creatures 
 as well as I could, with the hope of seeing them 
 again in a couple of months; and they left me in 
 better spirits. Colonel Lumley, with the most 
 laudable generosity, presented each of them with 
 a sum of money and a plot of ground, with which 
 they built huts for themselves, and formed their 
 land into gardens ; so that they can now boast of 
 greater comfort and convenience than most of 
 their emancipated countrymen residing on the 
 coast. 
 
 On the 13th of February, I embarked with 
 Pasko on board the Esk sloop of war, Captain 
 Purchase, which set sail the same day for Fer- 
 nando Po, where I had a long interview with 
 Major Denham, the only survivor of the pre- 
 vious mission of discovery (but since deceased), 
 who expressed infinite concern to hear of the 
 fate of his coadjutor in that expedition. 
 
 The Esk visited the island of St. Helena, 
 (where I landed, with others, to see the tomb of 
 Bonaparte,) and that of Ascension, from whence
 
 ASCENSION. 283 
 
 a number of huge turtles was taken on board ; 
 and afterwards we sailed direct for England. 
 
 During the voyage, finding it impossible to 
 sleep in a seaman's hammock, in consequence of 
 having been accustomed, for so long a period to 
 repose on hard mats, an awning was prepared 
 for me upon the deck of the vessel, under which 
 I lay down every night ; and slept soundly till 
 the arrival of the Esk at Portsmouth on the 
 30th of April. Whether it was owing to change 
 of air, or alteration of diet, or both of these 
 causes combined, I know not, but I became ex- 
 ceedingly ill on ship-board, which continued 
 some time after my arrival in England; and this, 
 together with intermittent fever and general de- 
 bility, damped considerably the joy I should 
 otherwise have felt on placing my foot once 
 more on British soil. 
 
 After our catching the turtle at Ascension, to 
 which I have already alluded, some of them had 
 the misfortune to die, and their companions in 
 confinement and misery were hourly expected 
 to follow their example ; insomuch that the 
 captain ordered their eyes to be bathed in water
 
 284 THE TURTLES. 
 
 morning and evening, as the only means of 
 preserving the poor creatures' lives. This 
 cleanly and responsible office -was proposed for 
 my acceptance ; but could I, who had so re- 
 cently shaken hands with majesty, and lodged 
 in the palaces of kings ; who had been waited on 
 by the queen of Boussa, and walked delighted 
 with the proud princess of Nyffe ; could I, who 
 might have become the master of a thousand 
 slaves, and lord of the high-minded and lovely 
 Zuma ; who had been solicited to wed the daugh- 
 ters of a mighty monarch, as well as become pre- 
 mier of his councils and commander-in-chief of 
 his armies ; could I so suddenly fall from the 
 towering elevation to which my consequence 
 had raised me, forget all my dignity and all my 
 laurels, and descend to the menial, grovelling 
 occupation of washing the filthy eyes of turtles ? 
 Surely, no. But for the first time I felt that I 
 was amongst my good-for-nothing countrymen ; 
 that the astonishing " Nassarah Curramee " 
 of Africa, the god, the prophet, the enchanter, 
 had degenerated into the simple Richard Lan- 
 der of former years ; and that all my glory and
 
 A JEW DECEIVED. 285 
 
 all my consequence had vanished into air. Alas ! 
 
 " See how the mighty shrink into a song ! " 
 
 Well, I put the best face upon the matter that 
 I could assume, and respectfully insinuated that, 
 considering myself in the light of a passenger, I 
 did not think it to be altogether honorable that 
 so disagreeable a task should be imposed upon me 
 in particular; and that although no one could feel 
 a more lively degree of sorrow for the sufferings 
 and forlorn condition of the unfortunate animals 
 in question than myself, the duty of ministering 
 to their wants, ought, in common fairness, to de- 
 volve on a person of less consideration, and one 
 on whose services they had a more lawful claim 
 than on mine. My scruples were respected, 
 and the turtles died ! 
 
 On arriving in London, I was met in the 
 streets by a Jew, who ran forth and cordially 
 embraced me, asking how I had left our Hebrew 
 brethren in Jerusalem. The fellow, by my 
 beard, and singular appearance, had taken it 
 into his head that I belonged to his own frater- 
 nity, and was just returned from visiting the 
 holy city ; but, being convinced of his ludicrous
 
 286 THE AUTHOR'S RETURN. 
 
 mistake, ray affectionate would-be brother 
 sneaked off without further "palavering;" and I 
 hastened to my late master's agents, Messrs. 
 Evans and Eaton, George-street, Adelphi. 
 Agreeably to the Captain's dying injunction, 
 his uncle, Col. Clapperton, was sent for ; but 
 that officer being in the country, did not ar- 
 rive in time ; and I thought it advisable that a 
 private gentleman (Mr. M'Gougan), my mas- 
 ter's esteemed friend, should accompany me 
 to the Colonial office in his stead. In the 
 presence of this individual I deposited my 
 charge safely in the hands of the Secretary, 
 together with the gold and silver watches 
 without having lost a single article from the 
 moment I left Soccatoo, twelve months previ- 
 ously, although I had travelled throughout the 
 most violent rainy season that had been remem- 
 bered by the natives for many years. Pasko 
 was sent back to his wife at Cape Coast Castle, 
 but not till, after much entreaty, I had given him 
 permission to pay his addresses also to Aboudah, 
 the young woman the prince of Zeg Zeg had 
 offered me for a spouse ; whilst I, when I had
 
 THE AUTHOR'S RETURN. 287 
 
 remained in the metropolis three or four weeks, 
 in order to prepare a rough copy of my journal, 
 returned to my friends at Truro, in Cornwall, 
 after an absence from diem of nearly thirteen 
 years.
 
 289 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 A Vocabulary of the Short Phrases of the Houssa 
 Tongue. 
 
 English. Houssa. 
 
 One Deah. 
 
 Two Bew. 
 
 Three Booko. 
 
 Four Foodo. 
 
 Five Beaha 
 
 Six Shedah. 
 
 Seven Buckevee. 
 
 Eight Togus. 
 
 Nine Farra. 
 
 Ten Gomma. 
 
 Eleven Gommashadeah. 
 
 Twelve Gommashabew. 
 
 Thirteen Gommashahooko. 
 
 Fourteen Gommashafoodo. 
 
 VOL. II. O
 
 290 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 English. 
 
 Houssa. 
 
 Fifteen 
 
 . . Gommashabeah. 
 
 Sixteen 
 
 . . Gommashashidah. 
 
 Seventeen 
 
 . . Gemmashabuckvvee. 
 
 Eighteen 
 
 . . Gommashatogus. 
 
 Nineteen 
 
 . . Gommashatarra. 
 
 Twenty 
 
 . . Ashareen. 
 
 Thirty 
 
 . . Tliallateen. 
 
 Forty 
 
 . . Harbine. 
 
 Fifty 
 
 . . Humpseen. 
 
 Sixty 
 
 . . Setteen. 
 
 Seventy 
 
 . . Sabine. 
 
 Eighty 
 
 . . Tissine. 
 
 Ninety 
 
 . . Tamaneene. 
 
 One Hundred 
 
 . . Duree. 
 
 One Thousand 
 
 . Zumbrudayah. 
 
 One day 
 
 . .Gunah deah. 
 
 One month 
 
 . . Watah deah. 
 
 This minute 
 
 . . Yonsoo. 
 
 Silver 
 
 . . Zinnariyea. 
 
 Gold 
 
 . . Hasraffa. 
 
 Brass 
 
 . . Becken Murraffee. 
 
 Beads 
 
 . . Dushee. 
 
 Salt 
 
 . . Gcsharie.. 
 
 A woman's girdle . . 
 
 . . Zanid. 
 
 A rogue 
 
 . . Mogue. 
 
 The sun . . 
 
 . . Ramah.
 
 APPENDIX. 201 
 
 English. Houssa. 
 
 The moon Wattah. 
 
 The stars Dula. 
 
 Morning De Saffey. 
 
 Noon Rangah. 
 
 Night Nooway. 
 
 Day Yow. 
 
 Abox Sundook. 
 
 Wild (a.) Dowah. 
 
 An antelope Naming. 
 
 A needle Allurah. 
 
 A looking glass . . . . Mydubee. 
 
 A knife Hooker. 
 
 A sword Tacobee. 
 
 A gun Isindegah. 
 
 Curdled milk squeezed"^ 
 
 and dried in the sun \.Chuckkumarra. 
 
 a kind of cheese . . J 
 
 To-morrow morning early Sigovey da Saffey. 
 Go on as fast as you^ Tuffee muzzah muzzah 
 
 can for there are rob- acqui mugo chiken ta- 
 
 bers in the path . . J labah. 
 Sweep the house . . . . Bally gidah. 
 Wash my shirt . . . . Wankee regar. 
 Mix a little flour and \ Uamma mossa fouro du 
 
 water * boo. 
 
 Bring ray mat into the\Kow shimpidah chiken 
 
 hut 5 giddah.
 
 292 APPENDIX. 
 
 English. Houssa. 
 
 Any river Golabee. 
 
 The river Niger . . . . Golabee Quarra. 
 
 Put the baggage dn the ~) Sadu kiah besah du ba 
 
 camel -* comme. 
 
 A wild hog Mugen dowah. 
 
 Soldiers of the Sultan . . Doggalee du Sulakee. 
 The Sultan's slaves . . Bovvah de Sulakee. 
 I am going to my house Ne tuffee giddah. 
 There are fine horses for ~\ Acqui dorkee nuggree 
 
 sale in the market . . -' chikeen caswah. 
 
 What's the news ? . . { Ah fiel ~ ah bour on don ' 
 *- naih. 
 
 Nothing particular, all's ~> Baboo coome sa laf 
 well * fare. 
 
 There is war on the road ") Acqui yiki chikeen tula- 
 near the city of Kano -* bah couso bernee Kano 
 
 Against whom are the") 
 
 people of Kano fight- I Menenee mutanee birnee 
 ing ? Against the sons ? Kano yikee yon zu 
 of dogs and unbeliev- j duncollen Caffree? 
 ers? J 
 
 Who's there Maneni acka ? 
 
 I do not know . . . . Ba sanni ba. 
 
 Tell him that I should \ Fuddee moossa nee shee 
 like to see him. . .."*. nasha dubaah. 
 
 What's this town called ? Whaso neen du bernee ? 
 
 It is the town of Catshe- 
 
 nah . . 
 
 "I Bernee Catsheenah.
 
 APPENDIX. 293 
 
 English. Houssn. 
 
 dear, O dear. O dear, "1 v . , . , . c 
 
 ' >Ki, ki, ki, zafey yow. 
 it's very warm to day. J 
 
 1 will take a ride in thee ~\ Ni how dorkee tuffee 
 
 East to-morrow . . -' gubu Sigovey. 
 How many days' jour-^j Quanah now& 
 
 ney is it from hence to ^ acka bernee 
 
 Kano J 
 
 There is much water in - Acqui rowah chikeen ta- 
 
 the path J labah daywowa. 
 
 THE END. 
 
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