THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES i^£ 1,,. . ^^^:t vi^:^Y' r- .'f,V. .^^^ HISTORY BRITISH COLONIES. R. MONTGOMERY MARTIN, F.S.S. MEMBER OF THE ' ASIATIC' AND OP THE 'MEDICAL AND PHYSICAL* SOCIETIES OP BENGAL, AUTHOR OP ' TAXATION OP THE BRITISH EMPIRE ;' OP THE ' POLITICAL, FINANCIAL, AND COMMERCIAL CONDITION OP THE ANGLO-EASTERN EMPIRE ;' • IRELAND AS IT WAS — IS — AND OUGHT TO EB ;' &C. &C. IN FIVE VOLUMES. VOLUME V. POSSESSIONS IN EUROPE. Far as the breeze can bear — the billows foam — Survey our Empire !' LONDON: JAMES COCHRANE AND CO. 11, WATERLOO PLACE, PALL MALL. MDCCCXXXV. LONDON : W. NICOL, 51, PALL MALL. HISTORY OF THE BRITISH COLONIES. VOLUME II. POSSESSIONS IN THE WEST INDIES. ]0\\ ILLUSTRATIONS. 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Europe emerging from the dark ages which for centuries had shrouded the genius of her sons, was roused from her long lethargy at the close of the 15th century, one of those memorable epochs when the human mind bursts through the shackles of ignorance and prejudice, thinks for itself, and approximates yet closer to the maximum of intelli- gence allotted unto mortals. The invention* of the art of printing, the discovery of the compass and astrolabe, the knowledge of gunpowder, &c. &c., all conduced at this period to stimulate men to investigate hypotheses heretofore neg- lected, and among the speculative opinions of the day was the possible existence of a Western Continent. The master- mind of Prince Henry of Portugal had already traced the African shores to the Cape Verd isles, and meditated a passage round the Southern cape to the rich kingdoms of the East ; — an obscure navigator, yet bolder, contemplated a shorter route across the wild and heretofore unknown waste * I say invention and discovery as in common parlance, but it is more than probal)le that what were then termed discoveries was merely imported information from China and the eastern hemisphere, where printing, the compass, astrolabe, gunpowder, &c. were long known. 718539 H INTRODUCTION. of the western waters, where it had long been surmised avast Irttnsatlantic territory gave rotundity and balance to the world. Then was the tradition remembered, that at a period of time indefinitely remote, there existed a vast insular ter- ritory, stretching beyond the coasts of Africa and Europe, which bore the appellative of Atlantis ; and that for three days this western land was shaken to its foundations by the incessant and hourly increasing concussions of an earth- quake, when it at length yielded to the irresistible and un- seen mysterious power, and sunk with its immense population beneath the bosom of the ocean !* Nor ware the chronicles of Wales forgotten— namely, that in 1170, Madoc son to Owen Qtiineth, Prince of Wales, seeing his two brethren at debate who should inherit, prepared certain ships with men and munition and left his country to seek adventures by sea : leaving ' Ireland N. he sayled W. till he came to a land vnknown : returning home and relating what pleasant and fruitfull countries he had scene, without inhabitants, and for what barren ground his brethern and kindred did murther one another, he provided a number of ships, and got with him such men and women as were desirous to hue in quiet- nesse, who arrived with him in this new land, in the yeare llTO.f As if in confirmation of these statements, pieces of curiously * This is the recorded tradition of Plato and the ancients, and on ex- amining the geological features of the different West Indian islands, in the following pages there will be found a remarkable confirmation of the earthquake tradition : in particular vide ' Bermudas' chapter. t I notice these events in order to induce the attention of the rising generation to the geogrnplit/ of our possessions, which is so little known even in the highest quiirieis, that Berbice is marked {printed) in an official document in the House of Commons as an island, and placed among the Bahamas ! INTRODUCTION. HI carved wood, large jointed reeds, and trees of a kind unknown in Europe, were picked up to the westward of Cape St. Vincent, and at the Azores after long continued westerly winds. At Floras the bodies of two human beings were washed ashore, whose colour and features were distinct from those of any heretofore seen men ; and a singularly wrought canoe was also driven on the same coast. Several Portuguese navigators thought they had seen three islands when driven far to the westward, and the sons of the discoverer of Terceira perished in seeking them, while the legends of the Scandinavian voyagers told of a mysterious Vin-land, enveloped in danger, and sur- rounded by the awful superstitions of the northern mariners.* Urged by these and many other indications, as also by some sound geographical reasonings, Columbus, a Genoese seaman, of a hardy character, and chivalrous spirit — imbued with the religious enthusiasm of the times, and actuated by a lofty desire for fame, after in vain tendering his services to several European monarchs, finally engaged in the employ of the politic Ferdinand and magnanimous Isabella of Castile and Arragon, sailed from Palos with two barks or caravals and a deckedship, on the 3rd of August 1492, and on the 12th of Oct. set at rest a long agitated question by discovering and landing * Araong the visions and delusions of the day was that recorded of the inhabitants of the Canary isles, who imagined that from time to time they beheld a vast island to the westward, with lofty mountains and deep vallies. It was said to be distinctly seen in cloudy or hazy weather, or only for short intervals, while sometimes in the clearest atmosphere not a trace of it was visible. The Canary people were so convinced of the reality of the island, that they applied for and obtained permission from the King of Portugal to fit out various expeditions in search of it, but in vain ; the island, however, still continued to deceive the eye occasionally, and it was identified by many with the legendary isle alleged to havft been discovered by a Scottish Priest St. Brandan in the fith century, and was actually laid down in several old charts, as St. Brandan's or St. Borodon's isle. IV INTRODUCTION. one of the Bahama islands, now in our possession, and called by its discoverer fian Salvador. Cuba was the next island of importance discovered ; then Haiti or St. Domingo, where the Spaniards formed a colony, and gave the isle the name of Espanola (Hispaniola.) It would be out of place to detail the further progress of mari- time adventure : in the three succeeding voyages of Columbus, the main land: near Trinidad, and several islands were ex- plored, and as years rolled on, the Spaniards extended their colonies to Jamaica, Cuba, Trinidad, Porto Rico, &c. and finally to Mexico and Peru, under adventurers such as Cortez. For some years the Spaniards were left in almost undis- puted possession of the West Indies ; but the French and English* began to molest them, the former in 1536, the latter in 1565, under the command of Captain Hawkins; in 1572, by the celebrated Francis Drake ; and in 1595, by Sir Walter Raleigh. The commencement of the 17th century saw the first British colonization on the West India islands, (the French and Dutch had been previously settling themselves on the main land at Guyana, and on several islands not occu- pied by the Spaniards,) and Barbadoes was occupied by the servants of Sir WiUiam Courteen, in 1624. {Vide chapter on Barbadoes.) * The first English vessels seen in the West Indies, were two ships of war, under Sebastian Cabot and Sir Thomas Pert, vice admiral of England, in 1517. They touched at the coast of Brazil, and then proceeded to Espanola and Porto Rico. The first trading English vessel that visited the islands, arrived at Porto Rico in 1519, being, as was said by the captain, sent by the King to ascertain the state of those islands, of which there was so much talk in Europe. The Spaniards at St. Do- mingo fired on her, and compelled her to return to Porto Rico. The Governor blamed tiiem for not sinking her, and preventing any dis- f-eivi illation in England of a kiio^vlcdgc of the West Indies. INTRODUCTION. For the next half century, the progress of EngUsh and French settlement m the West Indies was extremely rapid. Various disputes arose as to first location ; in some instances the subjects of each nation resided on the same island, parti- tioning it between them, or alternately expelling each other, {vide Montserrat chapter), and as war raged in Europe be- tween the chief nations, it was carried on in the West with a bitterness and fury outvying that waged in the Old World. The Revolution and subsequent Restoration in England, helped to people the Western isles, {vide Jamaica chapter), and freedom of commercial adventure, and a bold enterprize in unison with the spirit of the age, increased the wealth and European inhabitants of the New World. The close of the eighteenth and beginning of the nineteenth centuries, were marked by the most terrible European wars that ever de- vastated the earth ; its effects extended to the colonies of the contending combatants ; — for eighteen years England waged against France and Spain the most destructive hosti- lities on the transatlantic shores, and in 1810, Britain had captured every West India island belonging to any Power at war with her in Europe. At the downfall, in 1815, of that extraordinary meteor, who seems to have been sent on earth to teach a lesson to arbitrary rulers, and afford an example of the instability of all human greatness, a restoration and repartitioning of the West India Islands took place, and they have since remained under the government of the English, French, Spaniards, Danes, and Dutch — as marked on the Map prefixed to this volume. This concise notice of the settlement and acquisition of the islands, will be found sufficiently amplified under each posses- sion ; but before directing the reader to the several chapters vi INTRODUCTION. for the details referred to, I must briefly advert to the ori- ginal and present population of the West Indies. When Columbus first discovered the New World, he found the whole continent, and every island however small, densely peopled with a mild, and just, and generous race of men, (I do not allude to the Caribs scattered throughout the Archipe- lago, and preying, or rather feasting on their fellow-creatures), with skins of a copper or light bronze colour, long silky black hair, finely formed limbs, and pleasing features ; in some in- stances warlike, and civilized to no mean extent ; in others, living in luxurious idleness, under the enervating effects of a tropical clime. Such were the Indians, among whom history records some of the rarest instances of true heroism that man has ever been ennobled by. Within a few short years after the discovery of the W. I. islands by the Spaniards, they had for the greatest part perished, — milions of them had been swept from the face of the earth like so many ants from an ant-hill,* — countless myriads sank into the grave by reason of the avarice of a mere handful of desperate, immoral, and murderous adventurers from the west ! This is one of the extraordinary, the inscrutable, the awful dispen- sations of Providence, which it is forbidden to mortals to divine ; the human mind dwindles with all its boasted wisdom * Bensoni states, that of 2,000,000 Indians of the island of Hispaniola, (St. Domingo or Haiti), when discovered by Columbus, in 1492, not more than one hundred and fifty were alive in 1545! The Indians in Cuba, to avoid working in the mines, destroyed themselves in great numbers, not- withstanding all the efforts of the Spaniards to prevent them. The men, women, and children of a village containing fifty houses, have been found at daylight all hanging to the trees ! In the Jamaica and Trinidad chap- ters, will be found illustrations of the cruel treatment of the Indians by the Spaniards, who absolutely fed their dogs on the flesh of their fellow- creatures, whom they shot or slew when their bodies were required. INTRODUCTION, Vll into utter insignificance, when attempting to fathom the in- tentions of the Ahiiighty ; and I merely record the fact, in order to induce the contemplation of the most terrible event in the moral history of our species, and to show how weak, how powerless, how pitiful is man, either as an individual, or when congregated into society, in attempting to resist the decrees of Heaven.* I pass from this melancholy truth to glance at another event scarcely less astounding, as regards its long and desolating continuance, I allude to the slave trade. When the Spaniards found how rapidly the aboriginal or Indian popu- lation of the West India isles perished under the system of forced labour, and beneath the tyranny of their rule, the ex- pedient of introducing negro slaves from Africa was resorted to, and that infernal traffic in human blood and agony — doubly curst to the enslaver and to the enslaved — sprang into deadly and ferocious activity. The example of the Spaniards was soon followed by the Portuguese, Dutch, French and English ;f companies for the horrid traffic were formed — * Some retributive justice has ah'eady been dealt out to Spain by the Supreme Disposer of events. At one period the Spaniards possessed en- tirely the Floridas, Mexico, Darien, Terra Firma, Buenos Ayres, Paraguay, Chili, Peru, and California ; they are now utterly expelled from every one of these possessions, their dominion execrated, and new and flourishing republics are rising on the ruin of their once valuable colonies. t In the year, 1503, the Portuguese, who had settlements in Africa, had begun to send negro slaves into the Spanish settlements in America, and iu 151 1, Ferdinand the Fifth permitted them to be carried in greater num- bers. Bartholomew de las Casas, the Bishop of Chiapa, actuated with a desire to save the lives of the Indians, promoted the traffic ; but Cardinal Ximenes perceiving the injustice and probable ill effects of the scheme, discouraged it, and it experienced a partial interruption. Nevertheless, be- fore the close of that century the African slave trade was carried on by natives of nearly all the maritime states of Europe, and in after times, proh pudor ! by the United States of America. VIU INTRODUCTION. monopolies granted, and Kings, Princes, and Nobles enriched their coffers with the price of human blood. About thirty millions of our fellow creatures have been dragged from their native homes, shipped like cattle in chains to a distant land, worked like the beasts of the field, shot like dogs if they murmured forth a claim in behalf of humanity — and finally they have (with few exceptions) pined and pe- rished under the cruelties, avarice, and brutality, of a hand- ful of Europeans, — for of the thirty millions exported from Africa to the W. Indies* since the commencement of the six- teenth century, not half a million of the original slaves, or of their unmixed descendants, are now in existence ! I cannot in this instance, no more than in the former, pene- trate the ways of God towards man, — of the Being who de- clareth that ' He that stealeth a man and selleth him, or if he be found in his hands, he shall surely be put to death.' Exod. xxi. 16. I have carefully studied the pages of W. India his- tory which chronicle the deeds of upwards of 300 years, and The first instance of an Englishman engaging in the traffic occurred in the year 1562, when Sir John Hawkins, m his first voyage to Africa and Hispaniola, carried slaves ; and on his return deceived his mistress. Queen Elizabeth, in the report which he made of his proceedings. The Queen is stated to have expressed her concern, lest any of the Africans should be carried off without their free consent, and declared, ' that it would be de- testable, and call down the vengeance of Heaven upon the undertakers.' Hall, the naval historian, has the following remarkable observations on this fact : * Here began the horrid practice of forcing the Africans into slavery, an injustice and barbarity which, so sure as there is vengeance in Heaven for the worst of crimes, will some time be the destruction of all who allow or encourage it.' The African Company, formed in the reign of Charles H., granted by letters patent, an exclusive right of trade to Queen Catherine, Mary (the Queen Dowager), the Duke of York, and others, forming a royal company, who carried on a traffic in slaves to the extent of ^^800,000 per annum. • Half a million of negroes were imported into Jamaica from Africa, during the first half of the 18th century. INTRODUCTION. IX I find nothing but wars, usurpations, crimes, misery and vice :* — no green spot in the desert of human wretchedness on which the mind of a philanthropist would love to dwell ; — all — all is one revolting scene of infamy, bloodshed, and unmiti- gated woe. Slavery (both Indian and Negro) that blighting upas, has been the curse of the West Indies ; it has accom- panied the white colonist, whether Spaniard, Frenchman, or Briton, in his progress, tainting, like a plague, every incipient association, and blasting the efforts of man, however originally well disposed by its demon-like influence over the natural virtues with which his Creator had endowed him — leaving all dark, and cold, and desolate within. But now a glorious and happier era bursts upon the Western World, it diffuses the light of a new existence over the soul, Liberty is the spirit it has awakened — already her voice re- sounds along the beautifull hills and through the fertile val- lies of the West, and is swept over the ocean to the utter- most bounds of the earth. Long may England wear the crown of glory that encircles her with an halo far brighter than that of all her conquests and battles ; millions of the human race will bless her name for ages to come, and Afric's swarthy sons will pour forth prayers to the Giver of all good, for her honour and prosperity. She was the last nation in Europe to enter into that accursed traffic in human * In 1730 the legislature of Bermuda passed an act, ^\^ng impunity to the murderers of slaves ; if, however, it could be proved that a person had wilfully and maliciously killed a slave he was liable to be fined 10/. in current money, towards the support of the government ! If the murderer was not the owner of the slain slave, he was, in addition, to pay the ap- praised value of the dead slave to the owner. What a picture of society does this Legislative Act in 1/30 evince? In some of the islands emas- culation was resorted to for the punishment of rebellious negroes, in preference to taking away life, because that was of value to the owner of the slave. What refined and demoniac cruelty ! X INTRODUCTION. beings, — to her eternal honour be it said, she was the first to rehnquish it — to strike the manacle from the slave, — to bid the bond go free ! Tell me not that, Christianity has no power over the soul when we witness the consummation of this splendid act, of which the history of paganism affords no parallel. Slavery w€ are told existed from the period when time was, and for four thousand years has continued to afflict the earth ; under the benign influenceof owr* Christian faith it ceases on the Jirst day of August, Eighteen Hundred and Thirty-four ,— it ceases throughout an Empire on which the sun never sets ; and myriads * redeemed, regenerated, disenthralled," walk forth in all the majesty of freedom.f I stoop not to answer the impious assertion, that the image * I say ' our ' without any feeling of bigotry, in reference to Roman Catholic countries which still tolerate the traffic in slaves. f Progress of Slave Abolition. It must be grateful to a British mind to learn that, at an early period of our colonial history, negro slavery was reprobated by many public writers. Early in the sixteenth century, it was also discountenanced by Cardinal Ximenes, by Charles V. of Spain, by Pope Leo X., and by the Spanish Dominican Friars. Queen Elizabeth would also have discountenanced it, had the facts been known to her. Milton, and many others, have left on record their solemn protests against it. The sublime Poet of Paradise thus inveighed against this crying sin: * O execrable son, so to aspire Above his brethren, to himself assuming Authority usurpt from God, not given ; He gave us only over beast, fish, fowl. Dominion absolute ; that right we hold By his donation ; — but man over men He made not lord, such title to himself Reserving, human left from human free.' Also, Morgan Godwyn, in a little book entitled ' The Negro's and Indian's Advocate,' published in 1680; the celebrated Richard Baxter, in his ' Christian Directory ;' Thomas Trygon, in his * Negro's Complaint,' &c. ; John Woolman, in 'Considerations on keeping Negroes;' Anthony INTRODUCTION. XI of the Creator, made in his hkeness, and imhued with a por- tion of his divine spirit, was born to a state of slavery, — Veluti pecora, — proiia — oliedientia ventri. I heed not the physical care which may, and no doubt has, in many instances been bestowed on the mere animal ; if the negro were not a rational being, endowed with a mind to reflect, and with a soul to be saved, I might rest satisfied with Benezet, in his ' History of Guinea,' &e. ; Southern, in his trag-edy of 'Oronooko, 1696 ;' Dr. Primatt ; Hutcheson, in his ' Moral Philosophy ;' Foster, in his 'Discourses on Natural Religion and Social Virtue ;' Sir Richard Steele, in his story of ' Inkle and Yarico ;' Atkins, in his * Voyao"e to Guinea, Brazil, and the West Indies ;' Pope, in his 'Essay on Man ;' Thomson, in his 'Seasons;' together with Richard Savage, Shenstone, Dyer, and other poets ; also Wallis, Hughes, the celebrated Edmund Burke, Dr. Haytcr, John Philraore, Malachi Postlethwaite, Thomas Jeffery, Sterne, and Warburton, in their prose writings. To these may be added, Rousseau and Baron Montesquieu. Granville Sharp, Esq. a gentleman of undying benevolence, took up the subject with intense energy in 1768 ; and by his noble exertions, the judges, after three days' deliberations, made the memorable decree, that the moment a slave touched the soil of England he was 2t.free man. Since Mr. Sharp's time, further efforts have been made in the hallowed cause of slavery abolition ; among others, by Thomas Day, author of ' Sandford and Merton,' and the * Dying Negro,' published in 1773; Dr. Beattie, in his ' Essay on Truth ;' Rev. John Wesley, who had been in America, and observed the condition of the slaves, in his ' Thoughts on Slavery ;' Dr. Adam Smith, in his ' Theory of Moral Sentiments,' and ' Wealth of Nations ;' Professor Miller, in his 'Origin of Ranks;' Dr. Robertson, in his 'Histories of America,' and of ' Charles V. ;' the Abb6 Raynal ; Dr Paley, in his ' Moral Philosophy;' Dr. Porteus, Bishop of Chester, afterwards of London, who published a sermon on negro slavery in 1776, which he had preached before the Society for the Propagation of the Gospel, and became, from that time, an active and powerful friend of the oppressed Africans. In 1784, Dr. Gregory, also in his ' Historical and Moral Essays,' gave a circumstantial detail of the slave trade, in terms calculated to excite abhorrence of it. In the same year, Gilbert Wakefield preached a sermon at Richmond, in Surrey, in which he censured the conduct of Great Britain towards the Africans ; this sermon was also published. In the same year, the Rev. James Ramsay, vicar of Teston, in Kent, became Xll INTRODUCTION. thinking of the careful attention bestowed on him as a beast of burthen ; but he has far higher quahfications ; he is equally an able, zealous, and indefatigable patron of the African cause ; in de- fence of which he published an Essay on the Treatment and Conversion of the African Slaves in the British Sugar Colonies, 1784 ; An Inquiry into the Effects of Abolition, 1/84 ; A Reply to Personal Invectives and Objections, 1/85; A Letter to James Tobin, Esq. 1/8/ ; Objections to the Abolition of the Slave Trade, with Answers ; and An Examina- tion of Harris's Scriptural Researches on the Licitness of the Slave Trade, in 1/88 ; An Address on the proposed Bill for the Abolition of the Slave Trade, 1789. In 1785, a celebrated work of M. Necker, the French finan- cier, made its appearance in the English language, and was found to contain some very forcible observations on the slave trade. In this year (1/86), the first petition to Parliament, excepting one from the Society of Friends, was presented from the borough of Bridgewater, at the instance of the Rev. G. White and Mr. John Chubb, of that town. In 1788, Capt. J. S. Smith, of the royal navy, authorized the publication of a letter in vindi- cation of the facts which had been stated by Mr. Ramsay, and disputed by the West India planters. In the same year, the poems of the celebrated William Cowper made their appearance, containing many strong passages against the slave trade and slavery. Thomas Clarkson, M. A. has been eminently distinguished by his writings against slavery, as well as by his indefatigable labours in the cause of abolition, from the first agitation of the subject. His most considerable work is his ' History of the Abolition of the Slave Trade,' in 2 vols. 8vo. published in 1808 ; it is a faithful and affecting narrative, which ought to hold a conspicuous place in every Englishman's library. His other works are as follow : — ' An Essay on the Slavery and Commerce of the Human Species, particularly the African, translated from a Latin Dissertation, which was honoured with the First Prize, in the University of Cambridge, for the year 1785 ;' ' An Essay on the Impolicy of the African Slave Trade, 1788;' with several smaller productions. To the names already mentioned must be added those of Peers of Parliament, particularly Lords Grenville, Holland, and Teignmouth ; also Sir Wm. Dolbeu, Sir P. Francis, Sir S. Romilly, Sir J. Mackin- tosh, Messrs. W. Wilberforce, W. Pitt, C. Fox, S. Whitbread, J. Stephen, C. Grant, H. Gurney, G. Harrison, Z. Macaulay, Alex. Falconbridge, H. Thornton, William Dylwyn, Sam. Bradburn, Capt. Marjoribanks, Captain Layman, James Montgomery, Joseph Woods, N. Vansittart, the Rev. R. Boucher Nichols (Dean of Middleham, in York- INTRODUCTION. XIU entitled with his white brethren to every right and privilege of man,* and the alleged superior skill and intelligence of the * To the argument founded on an alleged mental inferiority of the Afri- can race, iny friend, Mr. Thomas Fisher, has thus furnished me with an admirably reply, to which, if space permitted, I could offer many addi- tional illustrations, from observations made by myself in Africa. ' The following are a few instances of African negroes who have been mathema- ticians, physicians, divines, philosophers, linguists, poets, generals, and merchants, all eminent in their attainments, energetic in enterprise, and honourable in character. Hannibal, a colonel in the Russian artillery, and Lislet, of the isle of France (the latter of whom was named a corresponding member of the French Academy of Sciences, on account of his meteoro- logical observations'* prove the capacity of the negroes for the mathematical and physical sciences. Fuller, of Maryland, was an extraordinary example of quickness of reckoning. Being asked in a company, for the purpose of trying his powers, how many seconds a person had lived, who was seventy years and some months old ? He gave the answer in a minute and a half. On reckoning it up after him, a different result was obtained; ' Have you not forget the leap year ?' asks the negro. This omission was supplied, and the number then agreed with his answer. Jac. Eliza John Capitem, who was bought by a slave-dealer, when eight years old, studied theology at Leyden, and published several sermons and poems. His ' Dissertatio de Servitute Libertat'i Christiance non contraria,' that is Treatise of a Servitude (or Bondage) not contrary to Christian Liberty, went through four editions very quickly. He was ordained in Amsterdam, and went to Elmina, on the Gold Coast, where it is believed he was either murdered, or consented to return to the practices and opinions of his countrymen. In 1734, A. W. Arno, an African from the coast of Guinea, took the degree of Doctor in Philosophy, at the University of Wittemberg. Friedig, in Vienna, an African negro, was an excellent performer, both on the violin and violincello ; he was also a capital draftsman, and had made a very suc- cessful painting of himself. Ignatius Sancho, who was born on board a slave ship, on its passage from Guinea to the West Indies, and Gustavus Vasa, of the kingdom of Benin, doth distinguished themselves as literary characters, in this country. Toussaint Louverture, the negro general, and Christophe, the negroe Emperor of Hayti, and his admiral, acquitted them- selves with sufficient energy in war, to achieve the liberties of their country, which is still governed by persons of African descent.' shire), the Rev. John Newton, the Rev. J. Jamieson, the Rev. Abraham Booth, the Rev. T. Burgess (afterwards Bishop of St. David's), Messrs. Beaufoy, Josh. Hardcastle, W. Smith, T. F. Buxton, W. T. Money, H. XIV INTRODUCTION. European over the negro should make the former a kind friend, instead of, as has formerly been too often the case, a cruel and Brougham, with several others, who have advocated the cause of the oppressed Africans, either in pamphlets, or in speeches, which have been afterwards printed and circulated through the country. H. R. H. the Duke of Gloucester especially distinguished himself by becoming the patron and president both of the African Institution and of the Anti- Slavery Society. The Society of Friends, or Quakers, warmly espoused the cause of humanity. The members of this community have long been, individually and collectively, both in principle and practice, opposed to the enslave- ment of the African race. So far back as the year 16/1, it was adverted to in an address delivered by the celebrated George Fox to the inhabitants of Barbadoes. He was supported in his views and conduct by his col- league, William Edmundson. The first public censure on the traflSc, passed by the society in its collective capacity, bears date in the year 1727, in which year it was resolved, 'That the importing of negroes from their native country and relations, by Friends, is not a commendable nor allowed practice, and is therefore censured by this meeting.' The same sentiment was more emphatically urged upon the attention of the mem- bers of this society in 1756, arid has been since that time very frequently reiterated in an improved form, as the subject has been better understood, and the evils of slavery more distinctly perceived. In 1761, it was re- solved to disown any member of the Society of Friends, who should have any concern in the traffic in slaves. In 1783, the society petitioned the English Parliament for the abolition of the slave trade, and it was the first public body which adopted that course. From that time till the pre- sent moment, its exertions for the suppression of the slave trade, and emancipation of the slaves, have been indefatigable. "The Friends have, at a great expense, circulated information upon the subject ; and it is now adverted to, as often as occasion presents, at the yearly meetings of the society. Nor let me omit to state that the University of Cambridge frequently petitioned Parliament for the abolition of the slave trade, until that object was obtained ; and it has since distinguished itself by petitioning the House of Commons for the abolition of slavery. Among the earliest friends of the cause in Parliament were Sir Charles Middleton (afterwards Lord Barham), William Wilberforce, Esq. and the Right Honourable William Pitt, then Chancellor of the Exchequer. The latter, on the yth of May, 1788, submitted a resolution to the House of Commons, 'That this House will, early in the next session of Parliament, INTRODUCTION. XV avaricious tyrant, prompted only to kindness by the despicable motives of self interest. Slavery, however, has now received proceed to take into consideration the circumstances of the slave trade, complained of in the said petitions, and what may be fit to be done therein.' The House, after some debate, agreed to this motion. Several distinguished members of the House delivered their sentiments on the occasion, particularly the late Right Honourable C. J. Fox, the Right Honourable Edmund Burke, Mr. S. \Miitbread, Sir William Dolben, Sir James Johnson, a planter, Mr. Bastard, Mr. L. Smith, Mr. Grigby, and Mr. Pelham, who were all favourable to the motion. Lord Penrhyn and Mr. Gascoyne, the members for Liverpool, admitted the evils of the trade although their constituents considered themselves as having a great in- terest in its continuance. Sir William Dolben having expressed himself particularly anxious to apply an immediate remedy to the crying evils of the middle passage, a short regulating act was brought in, and passed the House of Commons. It also passed the House of Lords, after considerable opposition, especially from the then Lord Chancellor, Thurlow. Upon the whole, the cause of the oppressed Africans appeared to gain strength during the parliamentary session of the year 1788. From this time till the passing of the first Abolition Act, in 1806, the subject did not rest in Parliament. Those who were friendly to the cause, and cherished a desire to see the slave trade abolished, continued inde- fatigable in their exertions to procure information, with a view to en- lighten the members of both houses; (among those, Mr. Thomas Clark- son deserves honourable mention ; his valuable life may be said to have been devoted to this holy cause.) And on the 12th of May, 1/89, Mr. Wilberforce laid upon the table of the House of Commons twelve pro- positions, deduced from the report of the Committee of Privy Council, stating the number of slaves annually brought from the African shores ; the means by which they were procured ; their treatment ; the average loss of British seamen and of slaves in the transit voyage, or, as it was more commonly called, the middle passage ; also the average mortality of newly-imported slaves in the West Indies. These propositions Mr. Wil- berfore prefaced by a brilliant address to the House, which obtained for him its plaudits, and he was supported by Mr. Burke, Mr. Pitt, Mr. Fox, Mr. (afterwards Lord) Gren^ille, and other distinguished members ; but the opponents of the cause, among whom were to be reckoned Aldermen Watson, Sawbridge, and Newnham, three of the members for the city of London, refused to be satisfied with the facts contained in the evidence then before them, and required further testimony. To this the House XVI INTRODUCTION. its death blow, not merely in the British colonies, but through- out the civilized world ;* England has paid the penalty of her * In 1807, the foreign slave trade was abolished throughout the United States, by the Act of Congress, a revolting internal slave trade still, how- ever, exists in the Southern States, and nearly 2,000,000 of wretched beings are there in bondage. Mexico abolished the slave trade in 1824, and Buenos Ayres, Chill and Columbia since the treaty of Vienna. The Con- ventional Assembly of France, in 1/94, abolished slavery, but the Act became void. Buonaparte, on his return from Elba in 1815, again decreed its abolition, but the Bourbons had neither the wisdom, humanity, or gratitude, to carry his decree into execution. England has paid nearly half a million of money to Spain and Portugal, for the suppression of the slave trade, but without a final eflfect. Now is the moment to enforce it, and to invite the co-operation of France and the United States for the abolition of internal slavery. acceded, and the examination of witnesses commenced at the bar of the House. The question was, in consequence, deferred till the following session ; but before the Parliament adjourned. Sir William Dolben ob- tained the renewal of his regulating act. In 1790, the examination of witnesses against the slave trade proceeded in the House of Commons, but not without opposition. In 1791, it was resumed and completed ; and, on the 18th of April, a motion was made by Mr.Wilberforce on the evidence taken, for prevent- ing all further importation of slaves from Africa, which, after a long and warm debate, was lost by a majority of 75 votes, the numbers being for it 88, against it 163. On the 2nd of April, 1792, Mr. Wilberforce moved the House, that •The trade carried on by British subjects for the purpose of obtaining slaves on the coast of Africa, ought to be abolished.' This proposition, after a long discussion, was agreed to by the House of Commons, with a limitation that the abolition should not take place till 1796; but when it was brought up to the House of Lords, the discussion of it was postponed till the following session, and their Lordships determined, in the interim, to receive further evidence. Mr. Wilberforce, in his introductory speech in Parliament, this session, stated some dreadful instances of mortality, which had happened on board of slave ships during the middle passage, particularly that one ship, with a cargo of 602, had lost 155 ; another, with 450 slaves, 200 ; another, with 466 slaves, 73; and another, with 546 slaves, 158; and that out of INTRODUCTION. XVll past wickedness, she must follow up her atonement by the performance of justice towards the colonists and their former the survivors in the four ships^ after the voyage \vas completed, 220 had died on shore in the West Indies. The discussions relative to the slave trade, were moreover conducted in this session with' less command of temper than they had previously been on the part of the friends of that trade, who began to distinguish their opponents by the terms /anatic, saint, specula t is t, or abolitionist. Notwithstanding the discouragements in the House of Lords the ques- tion was not allowed to rest after the session of 1/92. In 1/93 a motion was made by Mr. Wilberforce in the House of Commons to renew the resolution of the preceding year, which motion was lost, as was another for the abolition of a foreign slave trade, then carried on by British capi- talists upon British bottoms. The proceedings in the House of Lords were also remarkable this year for the opposition given in that house to the cause of the Africans : but some progress was made there in the hear- ing of evidence. In the year 1 794 the motion to abolish the foreign slave trade was re- newed by Mr. Wilberforce in the House of Commons, where it was carried, but was afterwards negatived by the House of Lords, who, never- theless, made some small progress in the hearing of evidence. In February, 1795, Mr. Wilberforce moved in the House of Commons for leave to bring in a bill for the aI)olition of the slave trade. This mo- tion had then become necessary, if, according to the former resolution of that House, already mentioned, the slave trade was to cease in 1796. The proposition was, nevertheless, rejected. In the years 1796 and 1797 a temporary success attended the exertions of Mr. Wilberforce in the House of Commons, but it ended in disappoint- ment ; the enemies of abolition having, in the latter year, by a recom- mendation that the Colonial Assemblies would adopt measures of amelioration, parried the blow aimed at their system by the abolitionists. This scheme of amelioration was favourably received by Parliament, where it checked discussion, although it produced few good results in the West Indies. In 1798 Mr. Wilberforce attempted to renew his former bill for the abolition of the slave trade within a limited time, but was again defeated, although by a small majority, in a thin House; the numbers being, for the question, 83 ; against it, 87. Mr. Wilberforce and the friends of the Africans, convinced that truth and justice were on their side, still per- severed in their hallowed course, and in the following session, 1799, Mr. Wilberforce renewed his motion in the House of Commons for the abo- VOL. 11. c XVIH INTRODUfTION. bondsmen ; the measures involving which will be found in the last chapter of this volume.* Ere, however, I close this brief * I have only briefly adverted, under the head of St. Vincents, to the present sj'stem of West Indian Governments or Lieut. -Governorships, in my fifth Volume the West India Colonists will I trust find their views fully developed. lition of the slave trade, but it was again lost. Another measure, pro- posed by Mr. Henry Thornton, for limiting the trade to certain districts of the African coast, had scarcely a better fate ; the bill passed the House of Commons, but, after much discussion, was lost in the Lords. The years 1800, 1801, 1802, and 1803, were, therefore, allowed to pass without any effort being made in Parliament to abolish this odious traffic ; but in the year 1804 Mr. Wilberforce revived the subject, and, after a very in- teresting debate, obtained, by a large majority of 124 votes against 49, leave to bring in a bill for the abolition of the slave trade. The bill was, nevertheless, when brought in, opposed in every stage of it, but it finally passed the House of Commons, and was sent up to the House of Lords. There, in consequence of the advanced state of the session, the conside- ration of it was postponed till the following year. It was of course revived early in the session of 1805, and met, as usual, with decided friends and strongly excited adversaries. At length the question upon it was lost in the House of Commons, owing, as was be- lieved, to the excessive confidence of its friends. The good effects of these proceedingsf became at last visible ; an order by his Majesty in Council, 1805, gave the first check to the English slave trade, by interdicting the importation of slaves into British colonies, ex- cept in certain cases; in the succeeding year, 1806, the prohibition was confirmed by Act of Parliament, (46 Geo. III. cap, 52), which also pro- hibited a British traffic in slaves for the supply of foreign colonies. In June following, the House of Commons came to certain resolu- tions for the more effectual suppression of the African slave trade. On the 26th March, 1807, an Act (47 Geo. III. cap. 36) was passed, pro- hibiting the trade, under large penalties, and offering bounties to those who might be instrumental in detecting it. This was followed by the Act of 1811, (61 Geo. HI. cap. 23) declaring the slave trade / the depth of water on the whole coast being continually undergoing a change, according to the heaviness of the rains or the duration of the winds that blow on the shore. From Fort Island the Essequibo runs nearly south for about 30 miles, where it is joined by the large river Cayuni which runs nearly S.W., afterwards north west through the province of Colombian Guyana, where it is supposed to join some of the interior branches of the Orinoco ;. a little further, or inland, the Essequibo is joined by the Mazarooni river, which makes a considerable sweep to the north west and then returns, so as to form a large peninsula, enclosing lofty mountains and considerable creeks or rivulets ; indeed for 80 miles inland the breadth of the Mazaroony is so great, and the wooded islands and creeks so numerous, that it has more resemblance to a lake than a river, and the influence of the tides is felt, at least in the Essequibo, 100 miles from the ocean. The enterprizing Mr. Hillhouse, an engineer officer at Demerara, has recently explored the Mazarooni river, and from his manuscript journal, as kindly lent me, by the intelligent and active secretary of the Royal Geographical Society, I glean the following description of the river and the adjacent country. The distinguishing island feature of the Mazarooni river commences at Caria island ;f from this point for nearly 100 miles, an innumerable string of islands divide the river into from five to ten different channels, in which space the two banks of the river are scarcely once visible together, and even * Ho*j Island, the largest in the Essequibo; its South end extends nearly to Fort Island. t Caria was once a Dutch fort, and several plantations then existed on each bank, but now only to be traced by a few cocoa trees. SCENERY ON THE MAZAROONI FALLS, &C. one bank but seldom, the river continuing from three to foiir miles broad throughout the Archipelago. The rapids com- mence between these islands,* and at the fourth rapid ( Wari- mambo) is a large open space in the centre of the river, which in the rains has the appearance of a vast lake, and in the dry season that of a rugged rocky plain. Some of the falls are most difficult of ascent, the Caboory, for instance, is full thirty feet high, in four different ledges, and requiring an hour's hard labour to get over a space of about one hundred yards. On emerging from the almost interminable confusion of islands, creeks, and falls, and with the open and placid Mazarooni river like a great inland lake running S. and W. the eye of the low-lander is agreeably astonished with a sight of ' Arthur s Tables (the first visible point of the mountains of Merumah or St. George, the great central chain of Guyana), at an apparent distance of about sixty miles, and which would seem by a comparison with other parts of the chain to be six thousand feet above the level of the sea. At the thirty-fourth and last fall, named Teboco, (and the extreme southern limit • The manner in wliich the falls are ascended is thus described by Mr. Hillhouse. — ' The rapids do not run in one sheet over a level ledge, but force themselves through a number of fissures,— large intermediate blocks of granite dividing the different shoots of the fall. At the base of these blocks is an eddy, into which the boat is forced, and becomes stationary, having no current either way. The crew then spring on the rock, and wade as far as they can find footing; by means of a long stout rope they then pull the canoe, or corial, into one of the shoots of the fall, where there is water enough to float her, and by main strength haul her up the ascent. They then take her out of the current, and lay her stern against the upper part of the rock, from the lower part of which they have thus ascended ; and with her head right up the stream, at a given signal they all spring in, and, pulling with their whole might, endeavour to cross diagonally the different currents till they get into another eddy. This is the time of the greatest danger : if not active in seizing their paddles, the head of the canoe is taken by the current, and she drifts broadside down the fall and upsets. If not strong-handed also, she cannot stem the currents above, and goes down the fall stern foremost ; the currents, at most of the rapids, run at the rate of ten or twelve miles an hour ; and thus frequeiitly many hours are consumed in gaining a few hundred yards.* 10 FALLS OF TEBOCO, xMACREBAlI, &C. AND of ]Mr. Ilillhouse's expedition), a lofty mountain was observed due S., with a conical peak at the N. extremity, like the crater of a volcano, equal in height to Arthur's Table, and named by the voyagers * RaleigJi's Peak ;' the Caranang creek appeared to lead towards it, but was not explored. At the fall of Teboco the river narrows to one-third of its usual breadth, but widens again immediately after, and at Aramayka the cliffs of Marybyacrew, became visible about one thousand feet high, with perpendicular northern faces, with a remarkable detached peaked rock on the W. face of the cliffs called the Caribisce, the legend of whose nation states it to be a man turned into stone for presumptuously daring to scale the cliffs. At the point of Teboco the granite, for the first time, assumes a regular formation, and as the river is ascended is continued to be found in strata, at an angle of about five degrees above the horizon, its apex being nearly northward : it forms the base of all the cliffs, to a height of six hundred to one thousand feet, when a perpendicular and cubical formation of quartz is the general superstructure to one thousand five hundred feet higher. From a little above Aramayka the chain of Merumah or St. George is seen bounding the horizon, stretching to the N. where it appears highest, and terminates abruptly, in perpendicular faces, like the other branches of the chain. Near the extremity in a clear day, a white curved line is seen extending from the summit to the base of the chain, this is the Merumah creek forcing its way from the table land, a height of one thousand two hun- dred feet, to the valley of the Mazaroony. At the fall of Macrebah navigation ceases ; the creek winds about in the most opposite directions, and at every turn a large bold spit of white sand projects. The water though per- fectly transparent, is of a deep chocolate colour, and the sands are reflected in it of a bright claret or purple — the dark and still creek is fringed with a dense and gloomy foliage ; while journeying in the midst of this gloomy valley, a perpendicular cliff of one thousand five hundred feet high is suddenly seen, and though distant it appears as if it could be touched ; — PECULIAR ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY AT MACREBAII. 11 around are detached masses of rocks, which seem abruptly torn from the gigantic walls of nature, and every two or three hours an immense block of granite must be passed in a deep channel, barely wide enough for the Corial (canoe), then suddenly the channel widens into a shallow claret- coloured lake one hundred and fifty yards broad, but scarcely deep enough for the craft to swim in, and at last a capacious bason is entered, surrounded by a bold extensive sand clay, as white as chalk, while the waters are as black as ink, without any perceptible current, though a fall of water is heard, and there is a foam like yeast on the surface, which remains the whole day without any visible alteration, save when a gust of wind coming down the fall, scatters the foam in flakes exactly resembling snow. At a distance a broken white line (the fall of Macrebah) of one hundred feet high is seen strug- gling through a cluster of granite rocks, at the base of two quartz cliffs of mixed character. Half way up the Macrebah fall, a small spring of clear, transparent, and slightly effervescent water, exists without the least ferruginous tincture, and issuing from a superior quartz formation, indicating perhaps that the extraordinary purple tinge of the waters of the creek is owing to a decomposition of granitic iron in combination with a solution of astringent vegetable matter. The distance of Carulang creek (in which the Macrebah fall is situate) from the coast is estimated at four hundred miles, (including the sinuosities of the river) and the height above the sea, (roughly calculated by the boihng of water at two hundred and eight Farenheit) above three thou- sand feet. A cataract above Macrebah named Coomarow is six hundred feet high, and exceedingly difficult of access, the greater part of the rise being an angle of forty-five, with an abrupt descent and only ladders of roots. On the crest of the fall there is not more than two feet of water in dry weather, but in the rains the rise is above ten feet, when the sur- rounding country is totally submerged. The table land above the Coomarow fall is evidently the extreme height of the horizontal granite formation, the laminae being here perfectly 12 THE DEMEllAKA RIVER AND GEORGE TOWN. horizontal, and that of the bed of the creek in large plates or layers, of from one to three inches thick : the ci*eek itself was one hundred yards broad and two feet deep, but com- pletely choked with a sort of long grass, having stems as thick as a man's arm, dividing at top into a multiplicity of long threads like the tails of horses, and completely cover- ing the surface of the water. The descent of the falls is accomplished with great rapidity, in less than one day the ascent of three may be got over — eighty or ninety miles being an easy day's journey. The middle channels are now chosen, where the current is most rapid and the greatest body of water rushing to the coast; it requires four stout hands, two a-head and two a-stern, to give steerage way whilst shooting many crooked passages, — that of Itackeck is a zig-zag of four turns, where not a few accidents have occurred to the small craft of the Indians. We know nothing further ^f the Mazaroony region, and even this knowledge is imperfect, owing to Mr. Hillhouse's evident deficiency of astronomical instruments. The Esse- quibo and Cayuniare are almost unexplored. Judging from Mr. Hillhouse's observations, the El-Dorado of the unfortunate Sir Walter Raleigh (to which the fall of Teboco seems to be the key,) is not a very fertile country ; Dr. Hancock differs from Mr. H. and until the land be better explored it would be difficult to arrive at a correct judgment. We may now proceed briefly to glance at the — Demarara River — situate to the SE. of the Essequibo, sixteen miles from Leguan island, and about fifty seven miles westward of the bar of the Berbice river in C. 40 N. Lat. and 57.45 W. Long, nearly three miles broad at its mouth, and becoming narrower as it is ascended. The capital of British Guyana, in Lat. 6.47 N. Long. 58. IW. formerly called Sta- broek, now called George Town,* is situate amidst a dense * ]f it were not for the tropical scenery around George Town it might be mistaken for a Dutch city ; except close to the river the houses, raised on supports to prevent damps, are widely scattered, built of wood, after the Dutch style with a stoup, coloured according to the fashion of the ASPECT OF THE COUNTRY, — BERBICE RIVER. 13 foliage, on its E. or right bank, about one mile and a half from a small fortification, built of mud and fascines, with two low platforms, and termed Fort William Frederick. The river is navigable by ships of burthen for one hundred miles up, as far as the cataracts, and affording an excellent harbour, ca- pable of holding the whole navy of Great Britain ; but unfor- tunately the bar will not allow .vessels that draw more than eighteen feet to go over it. For thirty miles inland, along the banks of the Demerara, the country consists of extensive level meadows or savannahs ; several sand hills then appear, and as the river is ascended, the country becomes more bro- ken and mountainous. The general direction of the river, ascending it, is south, with a slight inclination to E. ; the rapids hi a straight line being not more than seventy English statute miles S. by E. of George Town, but one hundred and six by the course of the river. The difference of level between the water above and below the rapids is only twelve feet, and the river describes at them a very considerable arc of a circle, the chord of which is about one mile and a half; the rapids are descended safely in small canoes. Of its source we know, I believe, nothing certain. The Berbice River. 57 miles E. of the Demerara, reaches the Atlantic in 6. 24 N. Lat. ; at its luxuriant looking en- trance, a little to the N. of Fort St. Andrew it is about three miles wide, with low cleared land on both sides, covered with trees, and at a distance resembles a number of islands. In the owners, surrounded by a garden and lofty trees, and separated from each other by canals, dykes, or lofty mud embankments. The most ancient part of the capital Stabroek, runs back from the river towards the forest, consisting of two rows of houses full a mile long, with a broad and shaded road between them, and a canal in the rear of each line of houses, communicating with the river. In cousequence of the scarcity of fresh water each house is provided with a large cistern, and pipes leading into it, for the preservation of rain water. The barracks, hospitals, and public buildings in Demarara, are in evidence of the taste and munificence of the Colonists, at whose cost they have been erected. 14 FORT NASSAU : TIDES AT BERBICE. middle channel lies Crab island (so called from its numerous crabs), about one mile in circumference, with a spit of land running out to the N. and S. dividing the river into two navi- gable channels; the E. with 17 to 20 feet, the W. with but 8 to 13 feet water. Eight miles N. of Crab island is a bar of sand, with only seven feet on it at low water,* thus lessening the importance of the harbour. There are several small creeks on the coast, but navigable only by boats, and a shallow flat extending along the shore renders it impossible for vessels, except those of small draught, to approach within a league of the coast. Moderately sized ships can go up the river Berbice as far as Fort Nassau, which is at the distance of fifty miles in a straight line from the entrance, and vessels drawing fourteen feet water may, it is said, sail two hundred miles up the Berbice. The banks of the river are low and covered with numerous plantations, as also along the sixty miles of sea coast territory of Ber- bice, the roads through which close along the sea coast, com- municating with Demerara, are kept in excellent repair at the expense of the individual proprietors through whose estates they pass, and may be said to be almost entirely formed of brick. The early Dutch settlers constructed a fortress fifty miles up the river, called Zelandica, but this was subse- quently abandoned and New Amsterdam built on the side of the river Canjee,f at its confluence with the river Berbice, two miles above Crab island, on the E. bank of the river, * Neap tides at Berbice rise from eight to nine feet, and springs eleven feet; in September before the equinox they rise fifteen feet; the flood sets strong to the W. and the ebb to the E. The times of high and low water at full and change of moon along this coast arc, seven miles off Bram's point 6h. OOin. At Bram's point 5h. 30". Off Fort Amsterdam 6h. 10". ; Fort Zeelandia, 7^- 00'^. At Demerara bar generally at half past four ; and at Fort Frederick at five. f The Canjee river, or creek, waters the Berbice district, and is navi- gable for schooners for fifty miles, but its course is then impeded by falh and cataracts. About forty miles below its head there is a creek, commu- nicating with the Courantyn river, by which despatches have been conveyed from Surinam to British Guyana by the Indians. FORTIFICATIONS, &C. — OTHER RIVERS IN GUYANA. 15 where it is intersected by canals, and has all the advantage of the tides. Three strong batteries protect the entrance of the river, two on the E. side, and the other York redoubt, on the west side, opposite Crab island. Fort St. Andrews, nearly four miles from the entrance of the river, and two from New Am- sterdam, is like Fort Wm. Frederick in the Demerara river, a small, low fortification, consisting of four bastions, sur- rounded by a ditch or fosse, and mounted with eighteen twelve pounders. An extensive savannah or swamp extends in the rear of the fort (which is separated from New Amster- dam by the Canjee river or creek) so that it cannot be com- manded from any adjacent point. Sixty miles E. of Berbice river lies the Courantyne, about thi-ee miles wide at its en- trance, with the navigation obstructed by many small islands and quicksands. The islets are fertile, covered with trees, and having on the W. side good clean anchorage in five fathoms. The W. banks of the river (which form the E. boundary of Berbice) are under British jurisdiction, and have a smiling appearance of cultivation. Besides the foregoing there are numerous other rivers, which in Guyana are termed creeks, though they would be considered large rivers in Europe; among the principal is the Mahaica creek, about twenty miles to windward or eastward of the Demerara, be- tween that and Abary creek ; the M ahaicony is also on the E. or windward coast, not far from the Mahaica ; the Boesary is on the leeward coast, near the Essequibo ; along the interior or southern portion of the Colony there are numberless small rivers and creeks intersecting wild and almost impenetrable forests, which, during the rainy season, empty themselves in torrents into the larger rivers, Essequibo, Cayuni, (of which we know very little) Mazarooni, Demerara, Berbice, &c., which latter rivers generally flow towards the ocean in dis- coloured streams at the rate of six or seven knots an hour. Climate. — The mortality of Europeans on the early set- tlement or colonization of Guyana was very great, partly owing to torrid heat acting on a moist soil and dank luxurious 16 CLIMATE OF BRITISH GUYANA, — DRY SEASON. vegetation pregnant with animal and vegetable decomposition, and partly owing to the intemperate habits of the settlers and their non-conformity with the customs of the country, and the dictates of nature : of late years, however, as the coast became cleared, and a free circulation of air was admitted, the health of British Guyana has materially improved, and may now be considered as good as the nature of a low country will permit in any zone, particularly when we consider the extraordinary quantity of rain which falls annually.* It is difficult to ascertain accurately the quantity of rain falling annually, not only because Demerara is subject to two rainy seasons, but from the variation which takes place in cleared and drained land, on the sea-coast or in the interior. In the dry season, and when the sea breeze prevails, there is rarely any moisture observable in the morning, the thermometer F. averaging about 82 during the night, with no very material diflference in the shade during the day. At the distance of twenty miles from the sea, or where the country is not exten- sively cleared, the trees and plants will be found every morn- ing dripping with dew, the thermometer falling to 76 or 78, and a blanket is acceptable at nights. As the country is ascended (or southerward towards the Equator) the vicissi- tude of climate is yet greater, and on the table land, 300 miles inland, the climate is described to be delicious, and the influ- ence of the monsoons regularly felt in the periodical fall of rain. Two wet and two dry seasons mark the revolutions of the year, each continuing for three months ; the wet embrace the months of December, January and February ; and then June, July and August, during which periods the thermome- ter is lower than at any other time, and the land winds (which are of course less healthy than the sea breeze) prevail. The dry season is exceedingly delightful ; the morning twilight commencing at four, gradually unveils a deep azure sky, over which the sun crosses cloudlessly from the ocean to the • In 1830 there fell, in five months, six feet eight inches of rain at George Town. WET SEASON. — COMPARATIVE MORTALITY OF GUYANA. 17 inland mountains, l>ehind which it sets. The inviooratinor sea breeze sets in at ten, giving animation to nature, and conti- nuing to blow with increasing vigour till sunset, at 6 p. m., when it gradually dies away, but frequently returns again during the night. During the wet season the wind is often from S. to W., and the rain then descends in torrents, sometimes for two or three days without intermission, in the interior and on the coast; at these periods our sailors say it only leaves off raining to commence pouring ; it appears to be admitted that the mois- ture, and consequently the fertility, of British Guyana is greater than that of the contiguous coast of the Orinoco, and may be accounted for by waters of the Essequibo, Demerara and Berbice having less declivity than those of the mighty Orinoco. Yellow fever (if in reahty it ever did exist there) has for some years been unknown in Guyana, but agues, and what we term in India jungle fevers, are prevalent among new comers if they rashly expose themselves to the night air or vertical sun. Demerara has been cited as one of the strongest instances of a deleterious atmosphere, particularly among our West India Colonies, but when we come to exa- mine facts, it turns out otherwise ; the range of mortality, even among the labouring slave population, is about one in thirty-seven to forty, but in London and France it is equal as regards the whole population, rich and poor, and in other countries it is even more; thus, in Naples, one in thirty-four; Wirtembergh, one in thirty-three ; Paris, one in thirty-two ; Berlin, one in thirty-four ; Nice, one in thirty-one ; Madrid, one in twenty-nine ; Rome, one in twenty-five ; Amsterdam, one in twenty-four ; Vienna, one in twenty-two and a half ! Thus that which is termed our most unhealthy West India Colony has, even as regards its working population, a greater duration of life than the rich and poor of some of the prin- cipal parts of Europe ! On six years, ending 1832, the increase on 40,892 Creole population was 3,678, or nine per cent. The following comparison will put this point more VOL. II. c 18 DURATION OF LIFE IN DEMERAR A AND IN EUROPE. clearly ;* in the Appendix to the Report of the Committee of the House of Commons on the Factory Bill, it appears, that, in a number of 10,000 deaths in a healthy county (Rut- land) under twenty years of age, 3,756 died ; under forty years of age, 5,031 died ; lived to forty years and upwards, 4,969. In London, under twenty years of age, 4,580 died; under forty years of age, 6,111 died; lived to forty years and upwards, 3,889. In the town of Preston, under twenty years of age, 6,083 died ; under forty years of age, 7,462 died ; lived to forty years and upwards, 2,538. In the town of Leeds, under twenty years of age, 6,213 died ; under forty years of age, 7,441 died ; lived to forty years and upwards, 2,559. In the town of Bolton, under twenty years of age, 6,113 died; under forty years of age, 7,459 died ; lived to forty years and upwards, 2,541 : contrast this with Demerara, where it ap- pears, by the last registration, that the deaths during the triennial period, were 7,016, of whom died under twenty years of age, 1,929 ; died under forty years of age, 3,359 ; and 3,657 lived to upwards of forty years of age. Supposing, then, the number of deaths to have been 10,000, instead of 7,016, the result would be — died under twenty years of age, 2,749 ; died under forty years of age, 4,788 ; and lived to forty and up- wards, 5,212, being 243 in favour of the duration of life in the colony of Demerara, as compared with a healthy county (Rutland) in England, and a still greater and increasing dif- ference in favour of the colony, as compared with the towns before mentioned. In the hurricane months, when the Caribbee islands are ravaged with terrific tempests, vast masses of clouds, Pelion- like upon Ossa, advance towards the south ; the mountains inland reverberate with pealing thunder, and the night is illumined with faint lightning coruscations ; brief storms succeed ; but, happily, the Barbadian hurricane is unfelt, * I am indebted to Mr. P. M. Stewart's valuable defence of the West India Colonists on the ^SOth May, 1833, for these details. YEARLY METEOROLOGICAL REGISTER FOR GUYANA. 19 Ther. Wind. January 85 to 74 E. February 86 to ;6 N. E. March 85 to ;; E. N. E. AprU .. 85 to 76 E. May . . 86 to 78 N. E. June .. 83 to 75 S. and variable. July .. 86 to 78 E. and S. August 89 to 77 S. September . . 87 to 77 S. and E. October 86 to; 6 Variable. Kovember . . 85 to 77 N. and E. December . . 78 to 75 N. N. E. The length of the clay in Guyana is about thirteen hours. In the hot season, the thermometer ranges from 84 to 90, on the coast ; and, twenty miles inland, seldom exceeds 80, during the warmest part of the day, falling at night to 60, or even 50.* The following Meteorological Register, though noted at the Military Hos- pital at Demerara, may serve for the whole coast of British Guyana. Remarks. Cool and pleasant; refreshing breezes. Clouds heavy, with occasional showers. Ditto, frequent ditto. Hot; no rains. Clouds heavy ; frequent lightning. Hot, with occasional rains. Sultry and oppressive. Hot ; occasional rains. Warm ; thunder and lightning. Refreshing breezes ; light showers. Steady, exhilirating breezes ; ditto. Heavy showers > strong winds ; cool. In considering the climate of tropical countries, the in- fluence of the moon seems to be entirely overlooked; and surely, if the tides of the vast ocean are raised from their fathomless bed by lunar power, it is not too much to assert that the tides of the atmosphere are liable to a similar in- fluence ; this much is certain, that, in the low lands of tropical countries, no attentive observer of nature will fail to witness the power exercised by the moon over the seasons, and also over animal and vegetable nature. As regai'ds the latter, it may be stated that there are certainly thirteen springs and thirteen autumns, in Demerara, in the year; for so many times does the sap of trees ascend to the branches, and descend to the roots. For example, the wallaba (a resinous tree, common in the Demerara woods, somewhat resembling mahogany), if cut down in the dark, a few days before the new moon, it is one of the most durable woods in the world for house building, posts, &c. ; in that state, attempt to split it, and, with the utmost difficulty, it will be riven in the most jagged unequal manner that can be imagined ; cut * At the Portuguese fort of St. Joaquim, on the Rio Negro, (Lat. 3 N. Long. 62 W.) which was visited by Dr. Hancock, the thermometer ranges from 7G to ^9 in April. 20 LUNAR INFLUENCE ON TIIC SEASONS, VEGETATION AND LIFE. down another wallaba (that grew within a few yards of the former), at J'lt/f moon, and the tree can be easily split into the finest smooth shingles of any desired thickness, or into staves for making casks ; but, in this state, applied to house-building purposes, it speedily decays. Again — bamboes, as thick as a man's arm, are sometimes used for paling, &c. : if cut at the dark moon, they will endure for ten or twelve years ; if at full moon, they will be rotten in two or three years ; thus is it with most, if not all, the forest trees. Of the effects of the moon on animal life, very many instances could be cited. I have seen, in Africa, the newly littered young perish, in a few hours, at the mother s side, if exposed to the rays of the full moon ; fish become rapidly putrid, and meat, if left exposed, incurable or unpreservable by salt ; — the mariner, heedlessly sleeping on deck, becoming afflicted with nyctolo- pia or night blindness, at times the face hideously swollen if exposed during sleep to the moon's rays, the maniac's par- oxysms renewed with fearful vigour at the full and change, and the cold damp chill of the ague supervening on the ascen- dency of this apparently mild yet powerful luminary. Let her influence over this earth be studied, it is more powerful than is generally known. According to Mr. Hillhouse, who has repeatedly visited the interior, the climate of the region inhabited by the Indians is much more salubrious than that of the coast; though ap- proaching nearer to the line, its superior elevation causes a decrease of temperature, and the surface of the earth is always kept cool, from the thick shade of the forest with which it is universally covered. It is a common observation, that the air of the rivers is un- healthy ; but this only applies to that part of them which runs through the swamp land and level with the sea coast ; here the exhalations and vapours accumulate, and the sea breeze is not always sufficiently constant or powerful to dissipate them. Throughout the whole extent of the salt or brackish water, fever and ague predominates ; but, beyond the influx of the tide, the banks of the rivers are so proverbially healthy, that CLIMATE OF THE INTERIOR OF GUYANA. 2\ were the population ten times more numerous than it is, there would be little employment for a physician. As we approach the high sand hills of the interior, the natural drainage is so perfect, and the torrents of fresh water supplied by the creeks form so strong a current, that all im- purities are quickly drained from the vallies, and the surface water is instantly absorbed by the sands. The water of those creeks that are uniformly shaded from the sun, is about five degrees colder than that of the river. The breadth of the river, by exposing a great surface to the influence of the sun, causes its increased temperature. During the night, therefore, which is seven or eight degrees cooler than the day, the water of the river becomes com- paratively a warm bath; and the time of its lowest comparative temperature is about noon, when the heat of the air is greatest, and the river has not yet recovered the heat it lost during the night. Bathing, therefore, in the heat of the day, is more bracing to the system ; but bathing in the morning is most congenial to the feelings, as there is scarcely any difference between the temperature of the air and the water, for two hours after sun-rise. The evaporation in the neighbourhood of the line being supposed ten times greater than near the poles, the rains are in proportion much more heavy and frequent. In these re- gions vegetation would cease, were the supply of moisture only equal to that of temperate climates ; and, upon the hills, where the water runs off more rapidly, a greater quantity of rain is required than in the vallies, where it stagnates, and is absorbed in superior proportion by the earth. We accordingly find that, upon the hills of the interior, the clouds discharge three times as much rain as falls upon the coast, and without causing any inconvenience. This disproportion between the rains of the coast and the interior would not be so great, but from the circumstance of the vast tract of low land, from which the forest has been cleared for cultivation. Woody countries are always the most humid — and, in a plain without trees, the clouds will pass over without discharging U^ TllEES CONDUCIVE TO KAIN : WINDS. any rain, from the want of points of attraction. The importance of this fact has not hitherto met with sufficient consideration. A plain in the tropics, without rain to moisten it, soon becomes a sterile desart ; and nothing will attract the electricity of the clouds, and cause them to burst, but the intervention of groups or rows of tall trees. It is a point, therefore, worthy the consideration of the Colonial Legislature, to preserve a portion of bush standing on the coast for the attraction of the rains ; or, to oblige the different estates to plant tall fruit or forest trees on their side-lines — as there is no doubt, that the more the country is cleared of bush, the drier it becomes, and the less fertile, and this more particularly with regard to the sugar cultivation. In the interior, the direction of the winds is by no means so uniform as on the coast. From the month of April to July, they blow more from the south than from any other point ; and these land winds, which occur at intervals throughout the year, by impeding the course of the clouds, as they are pi*o- pelled by the sea breeze, are another cause of the increased rains. From the superior salubrity of the climate, and the simple habits of the Indians, it is reasonable to suppose that, prior to the introduction of rum, they enjoyed great longevity. The native intoxicating beverages are so mild and diuretic, that little inconvenience results from their excesses with them ; but their system of computation is so defective, that they can neither calculate their own age, or those of their offspring. Early puberty is common in all hot latitudes ; but it does not seem to shorten the period of existence, though the ap- pearance of age comes on sooner. The Indian girls are mar- riageable at twelve or thirteen, and the boys at fifteen or six- teen — at twenty-five years the women lose all the appearance of youth ; but the men at forty are not older in appearance than Europeans of the same age. I agree with the Surveyor of Demerara that upon the whole, there is no doubt, that if the hand of cultivation reached to the hills of the interior, and a few artificial improvements GEOLOGY OF GUYANA SEA COAST STRATA. 23 were added to the advantages of local situation, the climate of the Indians would be the most healthy and agreeable of any within the tropics — with fish, flesh, fowl, and vegetables in abundance, pure water, no fevers, and no mosquitoes. Geology. Little is known of the geological strata of Guyana. An alluvial flat extends along the sea coast for about thirty miles inland, terminating at a range of sand hills. Efforts have recently been made to obtain water by boring at George Town. In 1830 Major Staples sunk a shaft of 140 feet at Cumingsburgh ; on arriving at the micaceous sub-stratum indicating a primary formation, a clear spring of water, strongly impregnated with iron, burst forth.* At twelve feet below the alluvial surface, an irregular stratum of fallen trees (of a kind called the Courida, and still known on the coast) was discovered, in a semi-carbonized state ; and, at forty feet depth, blue clay; at fifty feet below the surface, another similar stratum of decaying wood, twelve feet thick ; nine feet deeper, a compact of whitish grey clay ; thirty-one ditto, yellow sand, mixed with clay ; six ditto, violet-coloured clay, diminishing in shades to yellow light straw, and again merging into slate-coloured clay ; the re- mainder, to a depth of one hundred and twenty feet from the surface, is argile, the lower part being of that smooth soapy surface indicating the purest wedgewood clay. Mr. Hillhouse says, that it seems evident from this ' that, some ages ago, this continent was habitable fifty feet below the present sur- face, and that it was then covered with an immense forest of Couridas, which was destroyed by conflagration, as appears by the ochrous sub-stratum. The sea must, at that time, have been confined to the blue water, where there is now eight or nine fathoms ; and, whatever may have been the comparative level between the Pacific and Atlantic, on this side of the Isthmus of Darien the surface must have been then fifty feet lower than now.' * This water is perfectly good for washing and for culinary purposes (except for tea) after exposure to the air. Wells have since been sunk in 24 DELTA OF THE RIVERS — AND FORMATION OF THE INTERIOR. The delta of the Essequibo (and, to a considerable extent, along all the rivers) is decayed vegetable matter, forming a fertile black mould, on a clayey sub-stratum. As the Esse- quibo is ascended, the alluvium of the estuary changes to white sandstone, with scattered appearances of black oxyde of manganeze ; to the sandstone felspar succeeds, and then granite. The mountain ranges seen on passing from the Es- sequiljo into the Mazarooni, appear to be white quartz, 5,000 feet high, having the appearance of gold, from the numerous shining particles of mica in the quartz, which give to the mass the appearance of the precious metals, thus forming the far-famed £/-Dorado of the chivalrous and ill-treated Raleigh.* On the Demerara river, the first indication of rock is met with at seventy miles from George Town, under water ; it appears to be porphyritic sandstone. At the Post- holder's (ninety-four miles from George Town), there is a large bed of rocks of a granitic nature, with some hornblende, and at the rapids, one hundred and six miles up (or seventy miles, as the crow flies, from George Town), there is abun- dance of stratified green-stone. The structure of the mountains is principally granite, with a large proportion of ironstone. The Warow land of Poome- roon, and the coast lands of the whole colony, are described by an accurate observer as principally composed of an alluvial blue clay, intermixed with narrow strata of sand — and, on the Mahaica coast, with sand and shell reefs. This tract is most particularly adapted to the cultivation of sugar, cotton, and plantains, to which it is mainly devoted ; nor does there exist in the known world a soil possessed of such amazing richness and fertility. It is never manured, though an acre has been known to produce upwards of 6,000 lbs. of sugar, or 20,000 lbs. of farinaceous food (the various parts of the colony, and water obtained at depths varying from 100 to 145 feet. Tbi^ supi)ly has proved a great advantage to the inhabitants. * Raleigh's peak is supposed to be volcanic, and, according to the In- dians, several volcanoes exist in the interior, particularly between the Siparooncc and Ripanoonc rivers. ROCKY REGION — GOLD AND SILVER MINES. 25 plantain), in a year. As we go deeper into the interior, the clay loses its blue tinge, and gradually becomes yellow ; at this stage, it is always covered with a stratum of vegetable residuum, called pegas, which is the half-decayed vegetable mould from dead grass and leaves, and is, in many places, several feet deep, forming a great impediment to cultivation. Plantains do not thrive in this land ; but it is peculiarly favourable to the growth of coffee, for which it is principally cultivated, and the returns are ample, and of superior quality. Behind the pegas lands, come high ridges of sand, inter- spersed with vallies, in which is a slight admixture of clay. These sand reefs present many fertile spots for the cultiva- tion of coffee, cocoa, arnotto, fruits, and ground provisions of all kinds ; and, extending in their direction parallel with the sea coast, are occupied exclusively by the Arawaak nation. To the south of this belt the rocky region commences, consisting of elevated ridges and detached conical hills, rest- ing on bases of sand, stone, granite, and silicious crystal, containing a great variety of ochres and iron ores, mica, prismatic, hexagonal crystals, and, in some instances, slight indications of the precious metals. Though it is fully as probable that gold and silver exists in the primitive moun- tains of the west, as well as in those of the eastern coast, yet no native specimens have ever been produced by the Indians within our territory. Two or three attempts at mining were made by the Dutch, on their first settlement in Esse- quibo, but the ore was not found worth the expense of working. The most probable site of the precious metals, is in the mountains of the Attaraya and Attamacha nations. The rocky region is possessed by the Accaways and Cari- bisce, interspersed with small settlements of Macousi and Paramuna ; but these latter are principally found in the debateable land at the foot of the mountains, where they become the alternate victims both of the coast tribes and the mountaineers. In addition to the foregoing details derived from various sources, I am indebted to the urbanity and science of Dr. 26 COMPONENT TARTS OF THE INTERIOR MOUNTAINS. Hancock of Demerara, for the following tlevelopement of the geology of the interior of British Guyana, in which the learned and philanthropic doctor has long resided. Nothing of petrifactions, sea shells or the organic remains of marine animals has yet been observed in the mountains of the in- terior of British Guyana. The principal component parts of the interior mountains are granite, porphyry, and their various modifications, all denoting a primitive formation, while the exterior ranges towards the coast of a minor eleva- tion, are chiefly composed of indurated clays, with sand and gravel stones ; indicating a secondary order of formation. The great rocks of the interior are chiefly of a conoidal figure ; on a savannah in 2.50. N. Lat. there is a mountain called We'ive, composed of one entire solid block of granite, seven hundred feet high, and about forty miles to the N. E. is another still higher, called Taripoor, (devil's rock) ; they are both of the cone or pyramid shape, much exceeding the Egyptian piles in elevation and magnitude. Veins of quartz are very common traversing the great masses of granite, and most perspicuous along the channel of the rivers in the dry season, the direction of all the strata in Guyana being almost uniformly from N.E. to S. W. Vast quantities of iron are met with in the mountains, the soil of which (as also that of many parts of the interior), consists of a strong and fertile loam, being a mixture of clay, sand, and vegetable mould, with little calcareous earth, but much ferruginous matter, giving to the soil a reddish tinge in some places. The soil of some of the upland savannahs is composed of clay and gravel very close, and though apparently sterile, yielding food for the immense herds of cattle and horses that depasture along the Rio Branco. Of a very pure white clay, there are im- mense masses forming the high banks of the Essequibo above the falls, which would probably prove a valuable article in the manufiicture of stone-ware or porcelain, as would also the huge blocks of milk-white quartz found in various places. Some indurated clays, of great hardness, have been found mixed with sand, mica, calcareous earth, oxyde of iron, &c. INDURATED CLAYS AND IMETALLIC APPEARANCES. 27 amorphous and full of particles of a metallic brilliancy. These indurations, which are of various degrees of hardness, lie in horizontal strata, breaking into diagonal plates ; they are found along the edge of the water, and Dr. Hancock thinks are caused from the alternate influence of the sun and water, assisted by a deposition of heterogeneous earthy matters. Substances of a metallic nature which have the appearance of ores are also very abundantly met with in the mountains, but still more plentiful among the falls and rapids of the river. Rock crystal is found upon several mountains of Demerara, growing (if it may be so said) out of beds of quartz ; Dr. Hancock only met with one species, and that always crystalized into hexagonal columns, and generally terminated by a single pyramid with from three to six faces. These columns are commonly found solitary, but are some- times met with in groups standing together as it were aggluti- nated. They are perfectly transparent, of a water colour, taking a fine polish, and nearly as hard as agate. Red agate is found in the Rio Mow opposite, and not far distant from a crystal mountain. Much of the land at Moroko is thickly scattered over with silicious gravel stones of an iron colour. At this range of mountains primitive rock in smaller or larger portions is every where to be seen ; no traces of a secondary formation are visible ; on most of them are found large masses of indurated clay scattered in loose masses amongst the granite, but no calcareous matter or organic bodies are to be found, and they appear as if undisturbed since the creation of the world. The Conoko mountains (belonging to the chain of the cataracts of the Orinoco) form an insulated group, seated on the elevated plains, which separate two great systems of rivers ; the tributary streams of the Essequibo flowing N. E. and those of the Tacutu, Branco, &c. S. W. towards the Rio Negro and Amazon. From the summit of these moun- tains can be seen the spot where the Tacotu and Rapanooni take their rise. The soil here is also of a pure white clay, (not chalk) giving to the Rio Branco and other rivers a milky colour, owing to the quantity of clay therein diffused, and in »8 POPULATION ; — ITS INCREASE OR DECREASE. such a minute state of subdivision as to require several days before the waters vvill become transparent by deposition. In fine, as regards geological science, British Guyana presents a wide field for the geologist, and in reference to the agricul- turist a great diversity of soil, the three leading features of which are first, the clayey alluvial soil of the coast, extending eight to ten miles inland ; second, hills of silicious sand or gravel, which with intervening fertile savannahs extend to the falls fifty miles inland ; third, a rich primitive soil ; and, lastly, a mountainous country, with divers coloured ochres, indurated clays, and various mixtures of loamy earth and vegetable mould on beds of granite to a vast extent, all offering food and the means of obtaining every necessary and comfort of life to the hand of the industrious and skilful emigrant. Population. In estimating the population of births and deaths in the African population of the West India Colonies, it must be remembered that the African is as much a stranger to the West India climate and soil as the European is, and, indeed, experience teaches that the superior civilization and food of the European renders him much better enabled to withstand vicissitudes of climate than his dark coloured brethren. The decrease of the African slave population (especially when we consider manumissions, the prevailing disparity of the sexes, and the arts to M'hich the African women resort to prevent their being mothers) is not there- fore to be wondered at, bvit it will be found to be over balanced by the increase of the Creole population, or Colonial born African descendents. 1 am not now necessitated to enter into the question whether a state of slavery in the West India islands has caused a decrease of population or other- wise ; my province is more particularly to detail facts when we have not sufficient means to draw a fair conclusion ; many subsequent tables, therefore, will be considered as data merely — rescued from the oblivion of fleeting and scattered records — and not for the purpose of establishing any precon- ceived theory or foregone conclusion. TWO COMPARATIVE CENSUSES OF 18^39 AND 1832. 29 Summary of the Slave Population of the United Colony of Demerara and Essequiho, from the year 1817 to the year 1833, at intervals of three years. Males. Females. < i < s (*^ <«^ c gj t, When Registered. >• o S < u c c i s ^ ^ > s s s J3 M 2 < o < u h S < a K ■■A S3 a Q 31st May, 1S17* . 2r,,72n 17,046 15,499 17,=93 77.1K* 46.350 30,813 10,379 7,285 31st May, 1820 . 24,1^58 1S,;69 11,471 in,67R r7.37< 39,940 37,436 9,07s 881 4,868 7,1 to 2,272 31st May, 1823 . 21,-67 i»,4i: 13,00.1 20,748 74,977 33.605 38,372 7.471 5,43.1 4,.'il2 7,1S8 2,675 SlstMay, 1S26 . 18,898 i9.8n(i 11,592 21,032 71 .38-; 3^,257 36,125 6,134 10,40i 4,494 7,634 3,140 31st May, 1829 . 16,384 'M.Thl 10,.-i43 21.983 69,46/- 35,.393 34,074 4,S15 16,013 4,684 5,731 1,047 SlstMay, 1S32 . 13,519 20,330 9,052 22,166 65,517 34,359 31,1.58 3,181 4,086 7,016 2,930 The two following censuses w I give them as historical recor serve for comparison at a future Suainiary of the Slave Population of the united Colony of Demerara and Essequibo, 31st May, 1829. African males, 16,384; Creole ditto, 20,757 ; total, 37,141. Afri- can females, 10,343 ; Creole ditto, 21,983; total, 32,326 ; i^rand total, registered for 31st May, 1829, 69,467. Of whom are males under three years, 2,319 ; females, 2,365; above three, and not above five years, 2,926; between five and ten years, 5,251 ; ten and twenty, 13,060 ; twenty and thirty, 9,472 ; thirty and forty, 10,835 ; forty and fifty, 14,856; fifty and sixty, 6,239; sixty and seventy, 1,621; seventy and eighty, 417 ; eighty and ninety, 56 ; ninety and a hundred, 8 ; up- wards of 100, 1 ; ages unknown, presumed to be absentees, 41. ere made in 1829 and 1832. ds, in order that they may period : — Statement of the Slave Popula- tion of the District of Demerara and Essequibo, 31st May, 1832. African males, 13,519; Creole ditto, 20,830 ; total males, 34,349. African females, 9,052 ; Creole ditto,22,116; totalfemales,31,I68; grand total registered for 31st IMay, 1832, 65,517- Of whom are males, under three years, 1,974; females, ditto, 2,112; above three, and not above five years, 2,744 ; between five and ten, 5,401 ; ten and six- teen, 6,115 ; sixteen and thirty, 16,013; thirty and forty, 8,345; forty and fifty, 13,585; fifty and sixty, 7,179 ; sixty and seventy, 1,613; seventy and eighty, 363; eighty and ninety, 40; ninety and a hundred, 7 ; aged one hundred and upwards, 2; ages unknown. • Between 1817 and 1820 were considerable Importations of Slaves from other Colonies ; some few also between 1820 and 1823 ; and afterwards at the Census of 1829, there were of mnles under three years of age, 2,319, of female8i'2,dijb : and in 1832, males, 1,974, females, 2,.'i6o ; thus indicating a rising preponderance in females, the preliminary to au increasing population. 30 BERBICE SLAVE POFULATION FROM 1817 tO 1831. Decrease by death since the pre- ceding Registration — males, under ten years of age, 547; females, ditto, 517; males, between ten and twenty, 214; females, ditto, 195; males, between twenty and thirty, 222; females, ditto, 170; males, between thirty and forty, 775 ; fe- males, ditto, 436 ; males, between forty and fifty, 1,129; females, ditto, 603 ; males, upwards of fifty, 630 ; females, ditto, 393 ; total, 5,371. Births since last Registration — males, under three years, 2,319; females, ditto, 2,365 ; total, 4,684. Decrease on the three past years, 1,047. presumed to be absentees, 24 ; total, 65,517. Decrease by death since the pre- ceding Registration — males, under ten years of age, 770 ; females, ditto, 714 ; males, between ten and twenty, 216; females, ditto, 229; males, between twenty and thirty, 254; females, ditto, 194; males, between thirty and forty, 637 ; fe- males, ditto, 345 ; males, between forty and fifty, 1,277 ; females, ditto, 622; males upwards of fifty, 1,121 ; females ditto, 637; total, 7,016. Of whom were Africans, 3,850; ditto Creoles, 3,166. Births since last Registration — males under three years of age, 1,974 ; females ditto, 2,1 12; total, 4,086. Decrease on the past three years, 2,930. I have found it difficult to obtain returns of any nature from Berbice ; it is to be hoped that in future the general returns for Guyana will not disappoint the statistician. Berbice Slave Population frc m 1817 to 1831: — 01 ■a i Increase by Birth. Decrease by Death. Decrease by Manumis- sion. (U 73 e 01 •a •3 e 1817 1819 1822 1825 1828 1831 13,802 13,327 12,007 11,423 11,358 11,020 10,747 10,441 10,349 10,041 9,541 9.625 24,549 23,76s 22,35(5 21,4fi4 20,899 20,645 827 773 919 820 822 740 869 770 1 ,249 1,348 1,029 1,092 9S7 1,052 707 795 3 12 47 49 16 20 56 69 CENSUS OF DEMERARA AND ESSEQUIBO. 31 The following Census shews the total Population of Demerara alone, 31st October, 1829. "^ rt o DISTRICTS. Whites. Free Black and Coloured. i (U •a 1 i 6 ■3 S 1 •a o 1 2 3 4 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 2 3 From pi. Thomas to pi. Lusignan, parish of St. George and St. Mary From pi. Annandale to pi. Lancaster, parish of St. Paul and St. Mary From pi. Cane Grove to Mahaica Village, parish of St. Mary From Abary to pi. Bath, parish of St. Mary . From pi. La Penitence, including Canal No. 3, parish of St. Mattliew From pi. La Grange to pi. Waller's Delight, parish of St. Swithia From pi. La Parfait Harmonie to pi. Wales, parish of St. Mark From pi. Vriesland to Soesdyk, parish of St. Mark and part of St. Matthew . . From pi. Sans Souci on the lower side, to Dinabuna on the upper, parishes of St. Mark and St. Matthew From Windsor Forest to Bocrasirie Creek, parishes of St. Swithin and St. Luke .. From pi. Zeelugt to Beverhauts, parish of St. Luke From pi. Mara to pi. Loo, Upper Demerara River, parish of St. Luke 81 87 71 28 82 60 32 23 80 35 31 7 1 10 3 20 7 11 2 9 2 23 15 88 88 81 31 102 59 71 34 32 46 23 29 67 38 36 33 25 38 55 25 37 57 42 37 113 74 51 44 33 46 51 28 45 53 65 66 180 Hi 87 77 5f 84 106 53 82 110 153 154 261 143 189 136 129 118 138 135 140 156 662 110 772 463 617 1080 1852 A similar Return for Essequibo, at the same date, gives the population thus. 14-1 o DISTRICT. . 1 Free Black V\mtes. 'and Coloured. 1 "3 S "3 o H H ■a a £ ^1 (0 n "(3 1 ■i o •3 S 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 1 2 From Fort Island, inclusive of both sides of the river upwards Leguan Island and Hog Island, parish of St. Peter From pi. Caledonia to pi. Maria's Lodge, parish of St. James From Vergeeleegen to Aboeneboenaba, pa- rish of St. John From Caro Caro Creek to pi. Hoff Van Hol- land, parish of St. John From pi. Alliance to Cattle Town, parish of St. John From pi. Tay mouth Manor to Shamrock Hall 9 no 86 33 54 63 121 13 32 15 13 12 37 16 22 142 101 46 66 100 137 6] 52 34 176 62 28 29 58 51 37 186 66 38 34 119 103 71 362 128 66 63 141 245 172 408 194 166 200 4/6 138 614 442 470 912 1526 32 GRAND TOTAL POPULATION IN GUYANA. Of Berbice, I can find no similar return ; but the accom- panying shews the General Population of Demerara and Essequibo, 3 1st. Oct. 1829; and of Berbice, agreeably to Census of 1827, and Slave Registration of 1831. Whites. Free, Black, Slaves on the and Coloured. 1 31st May, 1829. V i "3 "5 1 03 S c3 2 ■3 a •a •a s ! S ^ s (K ^ S h a Demerara .. ..662 no 7/2 463 617 1080 1852 39,199 41,051 Essequibo .. .. ' 4;6 139 614 442! 470 912 1526 23,553 25,079 Total in the Country 1 138 248; 13861 905 1087 1992 3378 33,833 2S,'869 62,572 66,130 Do. in Geortre Town* 962 658 I62OI 1625, 2743 4368 5988 3209 3407 6616 12,604 General Total .. 2100 906 3006 2530 3830 6360 9366 37,092 32,276 69,36s "8,734 Berbicet •• ..419 104 523 454j 70/ 1161 10,098! 9420 1 20,418 22,102 GrandTotal of Mouths 2519 1010 3529 2984 4537 7521 9,366 48,090 41,696 89.786 100,836 General Census and Appraisement of George Town of the 3Ist of October, 1829. , .. Free, Black, \Miites. and Coloured. „• Appraised Value of Lots and DISTKICTS. s H Buildings •a ■5 -j E S 1 6 E -a ■a e a m 1830. Kingston 66 es' 134 158 277 435 569 /. 508,040 North Cumingsburg 117 85 202 231 359 590 792 1,355,350 South Cumintjsburg, including Company Path 1 with respect to Appraisement . . . . J 1 202 108 310 375 630 1005 1315 1,554,340 Robbs Town 144 32 176 78 135| 213 389 1,069,200 New Town, including Columbia .. 52 21 73 29 58 87 ibo 362,000 Stabrook 81 69 150 80 182 262 412 427,350 Werkcn Rust 148 118 266 316 495 811 1077 778,660 Cbarlcstown 86 84 170 183 299' 482 652 407,750 Lacy Town 60 73, 139 175 308 483 622 — 962 658 j 1 620 1625 2743 4368 5988 6,462,692 t The Population of Berbice in 1764 was whites, 116; male negroes, 1308; female ditto, 1307; children, 745; total, 3476. SLAVE POPULATION IN EACH PARISH. 33 The Slave Population in each parish of Demerara and Esse- quibo, 31st May, 1832, was — Births under 3 years of age Parishes. Males. Females. Total. M lies. Fe. maJe.' . 224 Births percent.* Deaths. St. Mary . . . 3,391 2,907 6,30! 237 ^- 1993 ' > 6;i(ii Q 1891 ^' 6301 St. Paul . . . 4,510 4,26'. 8,77'- 300 338 »•• .199 ' ' 2193 Q 1081 "J 2193 St. George and "^ St. Andrew J 3,993 4,04 ( 8,032 280 297 _, 1409 < ' «*i3.i ^ 7769 i > SUJi St. Matthew . . 2,934 2,67( 5,60- iss- 162 _ 995 •5> 14U1 11 — I I, 467 St. Mark . . . 2,5;( 2,061- 4,63c ue 1C& oS63 4, 46^3 10,4633 St. Swithin . 2,059 1,851 3,91( 10^ 104 - ICi '^> 391 ,„ S07 St. Luke . . . 2,930 2,60f 5,53.' 167 191 6, "IS I 1 , 11U7 St. Peter . . . 3,015 2,87^ 5,887 178 155 5 ^5 IS H. St. James . . . 2,126 2,04 { 4,166 8^4 106 ■*, 2L.33 ,„ mi »«5, 3U83 St. John . 2,471 2,146 4,617 12S 144 „ 4115 '^» 4617 11 — 1 i, 4ttl/ The Trinity . . 4,347 34,349 3,71*^^ 8,05i 224 1974 281 211fx 170.^ - 2186 O, 8Uo9 lO ^ l^> 8059 31,16t 65,517 Slaves attached t to Plantations J 28,08^ 25,394 53,477 155S Personal and 1 Unattached ) 6,266 5,774 10,040 416 4o: The native Indians of this coast have long engaged the attention of Europeans, and indeed imperatively call for the protection of the British Government. When this part of the South American continent was first visited by the mariners of the old world it was found densely peopled; but few, alas, VOL. II. Since the Registration of May, 18-9. D '34 INDIAN TRIBES IN BRITISH GUYANA. now remain to indicate the aboriginal inhabitants of a land which the Whites have made their property, — offering a me- lancholy contrast to the progress of European colonization and civilization in the Eastern hemisphere. Mr. Fowel Buxton, and his philanthropic coadjutors, are now directing public attention to this humane and indeed im- portant subject ; the following details will therefore be accept- able to all who think it of little consequence whether the image of the Creator be carved in ebony or in ivory, each and all claiming the attention of the philanthropist and christian. The principal tribes in and around British Guiana, are the 1. Arrawaks, 2. Accawai, 3. Caribisce, 4. Warrows, and 5. Macoosies. The first mentioned border on the coast line — the 2nd are removed further inland — and in stature, colour, and some other respects are like the first. The ord. inhabit the upper country between the Essequibo and Cayuny — they are described as having the manliness and intrepidity of all high- land tribes, and as being fairer than the Arrawaks, or low- landers. According to tradition they once inhabited the West India islands ; it is more probable however that the W. I. islands were originally peopled by the Caribisce from the mahi land. The 4th, or Warrows, occupy the coast between the Pomeroon and Orinoko, and are a black short hardy race of fishermen and sailors, subsisting chiefly by boat building. The 5th, or Macoosies, reside in the deep recesses of the forests of the interior, and are numerous, very industrious, extremely cunning, and implacable in their revenge ; pro- bably they ai-e the aborigines of the country, and fleeing before more civilized tribes, as we find to be the case in every part of the Eastern hemisphere. It is difficult, if not impossible, to estimate the number of Indians south of the Rippanooney ; about 5000 consider them- selves under the protection of the British Government ; re- ceiving triennial presents and annual supplies ; about 20,000 are migratory, unattached to any particular government, and removing at pleasure from the Orinoque to the Brazils, Cayenne, or Surinam, as necessity (i. e. want of food) orincli- ARRAWAAKS;— THEIR CASTES OR FAMILIES. 35 nation may dictate, Mr. Hillhouse, ofDemerara, the generous and indefatigable friend of the Indians, to whose philanthropic labours and varied talents I am indebted for the following details of the different nations within our boundary, places them as in the annexed order : — 1. Caribisce, 5. Macusi, 2. Accaway, 6. Paramuni, 3, Arawaak, Attaraya, 4. Warrow, 8. Attamacka, The Arrawaaks, it is justly observed, demand our first consideration, as living within the immediate vicinity of the plantations, being the most civilized, and whose services have been the most frequently required. As we are also most familiar with them, their character will serve as a model of general approximation for all other tribes. This nation can furnish about 400 men, all perfectly ac- quainted with the use of fire arms, and particularly serviceable in the intersected country and swamps adjoiningtheplantations. They consist of the following families, or castes : — 1. Maratakayu, 14. Nebebeetaddy, .2. Queyurunto, 15. Seewedey, 3. Wooneseedo, 16. Jorobalina, 4. Demaridy, 17. Haduadafunha* 5. Corobahady, 18. Boerybetaddy, 6. Wurallikaddy, 19. Caruafuddy, 7. Ebusuana, 20. Bakurucaddy, 8. Dacamocaddy, 21. Euboquaddy, 9. Aramukunyu, 22. Wakuyaddy, 10. Baboana, 23. Ehbehselio, 11. Kanahea ] 24. Wareerobaquady, Macoveyu, J 25. Aramkritu, 12. Daharabetady, 26. Kariwhete, 13. Carabunury, 27. Eubotaddy. The cast of blood is derived from the mother, and the family genealogy preserved with the greatest care, as a pre- servative from incestuous intercourse — one family not being allowed to intermarry within itself. The children of the Mara- 56 MARRIAGE RELATIONSHIP — PLLRALITY OF WIVES. takayu father cannot, therefore, be Maratakayu ; but if the mother be Queyurunto, the children are also Queyurunto, and can marry into the father's family, but not the mother's. Marriage is frequently contracted by the parents for their children, when infants. In this case, the young man is bound to assist the family of his wife till she arrives at puberty ; he then takes her where he pleases, and establishes his own household. But young men and women who are free, at a more advanced age, consult their inclinations without any ce- remony beyond the mere permission of the parent, which is never withheld but on account of family feuds. Polygamy is allowed and practised by all those who have the means of maintenance for a plurality of wives. This is generally the case with the chiefs or captains, who have some- times three or four wives. All the inconveniences common in Europe, where there are more mistresses than one in the house, are also felt here ; and envy, jealousy, and henpeck- ing, are perfectly understood by their effects in the Arrawaak seraglio. The interference of the husband, with a stout bush rope, is frequently necessary to restore tranquillity, and he is often driven out of the house by the din of domestic warfare.* The captain commands the services of the families of his different wives on emergencies ; and, in return, he is re- quired to become the principal in all feuds, and to exercise to- wards them all the rights of hospitality, in their most extended sense. On any scarcity of provisions, or prevalence of sick- ness, all the branches of the family flock to the dwelhng of the chief, and live at his expense, without the least doubt of a welcome. It therefore frequently happens, that the chief is fairly eaten out of house and home, and his cassava field completely exhausted. In this predicament he unties his hammock, puts his family into his canoe, and starts off to pay his round of visits amongst his friends, at whose expense he lives, till his next crop of provisions coming in, enables him to return to his home. The visiting is a complete system, and is always made to occupy three months of the twelve. * Petty family feuds or quarrels are uuknown. APFEARANCE OF THE ARRAWAAKS. 37 The Arrawaak, therefore, in preparing his cassava fields, calculates upon provisions for his family and guests for nine months ; and he is never disappointed in the hospitality of his friends for the supply of the other three, although this might be a dangerous experiment in a more civilized community. The Arrawaaks seldom more than five feet four inches in height, are stout and plump in proportion, but not mus- cular. Their necks are short, and their ancles, hands and feet, particularly those of the women, remarkably small. The eye slopes upward towards the temples, and the forehead is uniformly lower than that of Europeans. This trait of phy- siognomy may be supposed indicative of inferiority of intel- lect ; but it is incomparably superior to the cranium of the Negro, whose untutored powers of mind are as much inferior to those of the Indian as are those of the latter to the mental calibre of the European. Some of the castes are almost as fair as the Spaniards or Italians*— whilst those who live near the sea are of a very dark brown, sometimes as dark as what is called a yellow skinned negro ; but the straight strong black hair, small features, and well-proportioned limbs, are peculiarities that can never make the Indian be mistaken for the African, even if alike in colour. On the birth of children, the husband, in his hammock receives the congratulations of his friends in due form ; and the women of the village are particularly attentive to the wants of the mother. An Indian will bear any insult or inconvenience from his child tamely rather than administer personal correction ; Mr. Hillhouse strangely, and I think erroneously, asserts, that the conse- quence is, the children do not show one-half of the respect to the parents that the extraordinary aiFection of the latter entitles them to ; there is great paternal, but very little filial afiection. A child is named by a pe-i-man, or magician, at any age. An offering of considerable value is necessary on this occa- sion, as, according to the fee given to propitiate the pe-i-man, * Dr. Hancock saw some Indian women at the Portug'uese fort on the Rio Branco (within two degrees of the Equator) who kept themselves within doors and did not use the Indian paints ; and, in respect to colour, they might have passed for Europeans. I&S NATURAL CHARACTER OF THE INDIANS. SO is the virtue of his incantations proportioned. An un- named Indian is thought to be the certain victim of the first sickness or misfortune that he may encounter ; — accordingly, only the very poorest of them are without names. They fre- quently take the names of Europeans in addition to their In- dian appellations, more especially when they have been in the habit of receiving obligations from them ; and they fre- quently ask an European to name a child, by which he enjoys the privilege of making an occasional present. The secret attachment between the old Dutch proprietors and the Indians, consisted in the colonists taking Indian women for their house-keepers ; and of course acquiring some knowledge of their language, and becoming what may be termed " broomstick relations." The Indian is proud of these connections, and though he makes it a point to tease, harass, and defraud the European usurper, who has no connection with him — yet, the moment a family compact is entered into, and the Indian is addressed in his own language, nothing can exceed his faith, attachment, and honourable conduct to his white relation. His heart opens at once, and instead of de- ceit, suspicion, and distrust, he becomes open and confiding. This was common during the time of the Dutch govern- ment ; but, as the taste of the English seems to be directed in a darker channel, the ties of confidence have become en- tirely extinct, and all that the Indian now cares for, is to levy contribvitions on all who are simple enough to pay them. Those who live in immediate contact with us, are so de- graded by the practice of all our vices, without any encourage- ment to copy our virtues, that a hvmiane mind is disgusted at the picture. To such, how bitter must be the reflection, though undoubtedly true, that this horrible state of abandonment is entirely caused by our criminal and hard-hearted neglect of the first duties of humanity. The Dutch were angels to us.* The Indian, having no inducement to carry on trade or ♦ To the labour and industry of the Indians the Dutch were indebted for the success of their early settlements; the exiiuiple of negro slavery must have contributed to bring thcni to their present state. MODE OF OCCUPATION GREAT HOSPITALITY. 39 commerce, cultivates, during three or four months, as much provision as is necessary for the consumption of his family during the year. The rest of the time is spent in hunting, fishing, visiting, drinking, and dancing. His life is therefore a life of pleasure; and it is with great unwillingness that he undertakes a superfluous degree of labour, by which he relin- quishes a present enjoyment for the prospect of future provi- sion, about which he has no care. He takes no thought for to-morrow ; Mr. Hillhouse supposes that this is the fault of the climate not of the man, but he should visit Bengal, where, under a similar climate, the thrifty and provident Hindoo accumulates, not merely for the morrow, but for posterity. The lex talionis is observed rigidly, and tends greatly to prevent the increase of population ; but, in this respect, the influence of Europeans is productive of the happiest effect : for though an Indian will hear of no com.promise from another Indian in a feud of blood, he will yet faithfully abide by the determination and award of a favourite European, and will consent to a commutation, even for the life of the dearest re- lative, when proposed by his " backra matty." Without this interference, the accidental death of one individual frequently entails destruction on the families of both the slayer and the slain. Most of the blood feuds originate in jealousy and the revenge of connubial injuries, of which they are highly resentful. The duties of hospitality are paramount with all barbarous nations. When a stranger, and particularly an European, enters the house of an Indian, every thing is at his command. The women prepare the pepper-pot, and bake a hot cake of cassava bread ; a bowl of caseri is produced, (a fermented preparation from the sweet potatoe,) and the head of the family strives to forestal all his wants. The young men im- mediately leave their hammocks to hunt and fish ; every article of arms or furniture, except the toys of the children, is at his disposal, and he is absolutely oppressed with the kindness of his welcome. This is exceedingly inconvenient in the sequel, because all offices of kindness are supposed to be 40 MORALS — DISTINCTION OF PROPERTY. reciprocal. When the Indian pays the white man a visit, the difference in value of his furniture and equipments causes a return in kind to he too expensive. The Indian therefore says, ' When you visit me, I give you every thing I have in the world — but when I visit you, you refuse me the commonest ar- ticles of your daily expenditure :' therefore, though they bow to our acknowledged mental superiority, they despise us for our stinginess and inhospitality ; and while giving us all due credit for the virtues of the head, they say we have *no heart for any thing but money.' They have not a community of goods, — individual property being distinctly marked amongst them ; but this property is so simple, and so easily acquired, that they are perpetually borrowing and lending, without the least care about payment ; and, in the purchase of corials and canoes, their most expensive articles, the buyer is frequently credited, to what we should call a ridiculous extent, especially as there seldom exists the means of enforcing payments. It is reckoned highly indecent in the men to caress or notice the women in public ; and our practice in this respect, appears to them highly contemptible. But the Arrawaak, when se- eluded from public observation, exhibits as sincere and unre- served an affection for his domestic connections, as the more civilized of any nation ; and though apt to fly into the ex- tremes of passion, when influenced by jealousy and intem- perance, he is on the whole a good husband and relative, and a most kind and indulgent parent. The Indians are considered by many deficient of personal courage. It is true, that being of less stature, and possessing less bodily strength, they are unable to cope equally with Eu- ropeans, or even negroes. However, in wars amongst them- selves, where they are more equally matched, they display a fierce determination that despises all danger ; and their com- bats are always a I'outrance. An Indian, who is deputed to revenge a murder, will follow his enemy for years together, publicly avowing his purpose, which he will not relinquish but with life. Their principle valuable qualities are agihty, dexterity, and the itituitivc tact of tracking, or discovering VALUABLE QUALITIES — GOOD SOLDIERS AND GUIDES. 41 footsteps in the bush.* Where an European can discover no indication whatever, an Indian will point out the footsteps of any number of Negroes, and will state the precise day in which they have passed ; and, if on the same day, he will state the hour. In all pursuits of deserters, and reconnoissances of Negro camps, this qualification makes them indispensably necessary, as an expedition without Indian guides has little chance of success. The Indians manufacture bows, arrows, hammocks, baskets, canoes, and corials, and apparatus for fishing, with consider- able ingenuity; but, at a certain pitch, their art is stationary, and there does not appear to have been any improvement or new idea struck out in any of these branches, from time imme- morial. This is the case with all barbarous nations till they begin to work the metals ; which material, by its fusion and ductility opens a new train of ideas, and enlarges the field for improvement, ad infinitiim — whereas, in works of wood, bone, or stone, all possible excellence is very soon acquired, and improvement quickly ceases. Their animal perceptions are astonishingly acute ; and their speed in their native woods, and over the most difl[icult ground, far outstrips that of Europeans — few of whom can keep pace with them, even for a short dis- tance. No European march could ever come into competition with the astonishingly rapid movements of the Indian regi- ments in the army of Bolivar. An expedition, composed ex- clusively of Indians, will go over three times the ground in the same time that can be traversed by European troops ; and this superiority of locomotion, renders them more than a match for double their numbers, in their native wilds. They can, moreover, live comfortably where European troops must starve, and they require no commissariat. With 10 lbs. of cassava bread, an Indian can keep the field for three weeks or a month. His gun will be always in order, and his ammu- nition dry and serviceable. It is impossible to surprise him ; • Their sense of smell is so great that they will track any animal (man not excepted) by merely smelling the stones or earth on which he may have recently trod. 42 INDIAN COMMLNITIES PETTY REPUBLICS. and, with a commander who can keep pace with him, and in wliom he has confidence, the Indian ranger cannot be equalled by the best troops in the known world, for service in a tro- pical region, and under the burning sun of the line. Mr. Hillhouse, whose extensive knowledge of the subject entitles his opinions to the vitmost attention, considers the settlement of the Indians as so many petty republics, without any universally acknowledged authority, and he strongly re- commends our pursuing the same line of policy as that of the Spanish missions on the Orinoque ; i. e. placing an intelligent and accomplished European in authority over the Indians, and forming them into military detachments, and establish- ments. To proceed with the Indian's description : — The Accawai occupy the country between the rapids and the high mountains of the interior. In the Demerara River, their number is about seven hundred, and in the Massaroony, about loOO. They are not superior to the Arrawaaks in statiu'e, but their skins are of a deeper red, and they are more resolute and determined in their enterprises. They are recognised, at first sight, by a large lump of arnotto, stuck upon their hair over the forehead — with which they paint themselves, both to strike terror, and as a defence from the bite of insects, by its properties. In character they are quarrelsome, warlike, and capable of enduring considerable fatigue and hardship ; but such determined republicans in principle, that it is difficult to preserve subordmation amongst them; and their chiefs have less consideration out of the limits of their family connections, than the chiefs of other tribes. As soldiers, a well-trained body of Accaways would be capable of performing the most desperate enterprises ; but their commander must be endowed with some most peculiar and acknowledged claim to superiority, or they will not yield the least obedience to his authority.* The Accaways are dreaded by all the other tribes; and, * At the Portuguese fort St. Joaquim, on the Rio Branco or Parima, there are several huiidr. il Indians, some employed as soldiers, others as agriculturists, and many in manufacturing hammocks and cotton cloths. ACCAWAI — THEIR HABITS, CHARACTER, &C. 43 wherever they settle, they soon make a clear neighbourhood. They are the pedlars and news-carriers of the whole eastern coast ; and their numbers in the interior being superior to those of all the other tribes together, they could easily sub- due them, were there any thing like union or subordination amongst them ; but, from the want of these, they are con- stantly at war amongst themselves, and the extent to which they carry on the slave trade keeps their numbers from in- creasing, so that the other tribes, under the patronage of the Colonial Government, still preserve their liberty. From their constant locomotion, no accurate census can be taken of their number. It differs every year, and every month of the year, so numerous are their expeditions and emigrations to and from the Orinoque, the Brazils, and Cay- enne ; but, wherever they travel, they trade and fight — and the travelling kit of an Accaway Indian is as well calculated to drive a bargain as to sack a village. They are fully as improvident and irregular in their habits as the other tribes ; but they calculate their interest to a nicety, and the greatest number of Accaways will always be found where they are best paid, and most encouraged. Being as hospitable as they are quarrelsome, an Accaway village is always on the alert, to receive properly either a friend or an enemy ; and, as the sudden and frequent visits of the numbers that are constantly travelling, demands an ex- traordinary supply of provisions, their cultivation is double that of the other tribes. If any period of general truce be allowed amongst them, it is during the dry season, in which they prepare and plant their numerous and extensive fields of cassava. But no sooner have they provided a supply for all goers and comers during the ensuing year, than they set to work manufacturing warlike implements of all kinds; and if, by the sale of a few articles, they can muster a cargo of European goods, and a few fire-arms, they set off to the Spanish or Portuguese frontier, to barter them for dogs, hammocks, &c. In these expeditions several families join, as in the cara- vans of Asia — their only care being to supply themselves with 44 DRINKING FESTIVALS OF THE ACCAWAI. a good stock of bread ; they tlien march for three days, and halt for two, during which tliey hunt and barbacot (smoke dry) their game, and are in no distress for provisions, for even two or tliree months, which is frequently the duration of their journeys. In these marches, when they approach a village, it signifies not of what nation, they prepare to attack it. If it be on the alert, and strong enough to resist, tliey conclude a treaty of commerce, cat together, and trade, without reserve or sus- picion ; but if the place be weak, and the inhabitants off their guard, those who resist are instantly massacred, and the re- mainder become slaves to the victors.* Their audacity in these predatory excursions is astonishing. If a party can muster eight or ten stand of fire-arms, it will fight its way through all the mountain tribes, though at open war with them ; and, by the rapidity of their marches, and nightly enterprises, which they call Kanaima, they conceal the weakness of their numbers, and carry terror before them. On their return from a successful expedition, they pre- pare for a general and tremendous drinking-match. For several days prior to the piworry feast, all the women in the vicinity are assembled. They sit round a fire, on which the cakes of cassava, made about three-fourths of an inch thick, are baked till they are brown throvighout. Each woman, then moistening her mouth with a little water, chews a piece of bread till it is perfectly saturated with saliva ; she then strains it in her mouth, and spits out the moisture into a vessel in the centre. When a sufficient quantity of this extract is accumulated, w^ater is added, and it is thrown into a hollow tree, or corial, cleaned out for the purpose, which contains two or three hundred gallons. There it is left to ferment ; and as soon as it begins to get sour, the guests as- semble, and for two or three days continue to drink, till the whole supply is exhausted. On the second day's debauch, inebriety is general, and all the consequences then ensue, as • The rorlugtiese have abolished the slaverj' of the Indians on Rio Branco. THE PIWORRY — MODE OF PREPARING IT. 45 regularly as at an Irish fair. Quarrels, broken heads, pitched battles, incontinence, and frequently murder.* During the dry season, the chiefs, or heads of families, exercise more authority than at other periods. The security of a supply of ground provisions for the ensuing year, is a point in which all are concerned, and to this all are bound to contribute to their utmost. The chief, therefore, calls his young men around him, and, selecting a fertile spot, he pro- ceeds with axes and cutlasses to fell the trees with which it is covered, which are left to dry as they fall, and in six or eight weeks they are collected into heaps and burnt. The ashes, forming a strong manure, are mixed up with the soil, and cassava being planted, in nine months the roots are I'ipe for use. A succession of fields are necessary to keep up the supply during the year ; and two crops are all that can be ex- pected from the same field. One Indian will clear, and with his wife, plant two or three acres in as many weeks ; and * These orgies are common to all the Iiulian nations, and seem to he their great besetting sin, since numerous feuds and fatal corisequeiices fre- quently ensue, from affronts given or received in these parties ; and it is not improbable that the character the Accavvays have for frequent quarrelling, may originate in the superior excess to which they indulge themselves in these feasts beyond the other nations, who are more moderate in their debauches. The piworry is very diuretic, and, notwithstanding the insensible state of inebriety, brought on by the enormous (juantities of it they imbibe at one sitting, few inconveniences result from it as to health. Now and then a slight fever occurs from exposure to the night air, with the damp earth for a bed ; but its ill efifects bear no comparison with those resulting from the use of rum. The Indian women, by fre- . k. >. >. >> a IS OS te ct n » O R Q He generally keeps the Sabbath, and retires to English 200 50 50 30 35 Bath or Cheltenham a wealthy and superan< nuated invalid. Drinking his whiskey punch at night, and living Scotch 265 50 50 otherwise poorly, to shine hereafter in Auld Reekie. Irish 200 50 50 65 Werk-en-Rust.t French 200 40 10 .. He buys a title and estate in Flanders, or dies from drinking: sour claret. He drinks drams, from sun-rise to breakfast, sys- Dutch 225 20 20 100 tematically — and modifies the miasma without detriment to his business or constitution. German 2-5 20 50 20 A Lordship on the Rhine. Spaniard . . 100 100 20 10 135 Attached to the soil, from whence he never re- moves. Mulatto . . 100 100 50 C5 50 "] A premature death from drunkenness or its con- Mestize 100 125 25 50 65 • sequences, united to the evils of constant Indian PO 150 50 50 25 J poverty and want. Free Negro. . 50 150 20 50 95 Dies at an advanced age from want. Negro Slave . 250 30 25 10 50 After ten or fifteen years of invalided ease, he dies of old age having never known want. If the European attains independence, his constitution is so much shat- tered that he is unable to enjoy it. The life of the Creole Spaniard ap- pears the pleasantest — and that of the Negro Slave of the best moral and political tendency. The intemperance of the European is frequent, but not excessive or of long duration — but of the others, though seldom indulged in, it is more prolonged and desperate. t The Burial Ground. LANGUAGES SPOKEN IN GUYANA. 55 Language. The principal language in British Guyana is, of course, English ; but the Dutch colonists still keep up, as much as possible, a knowledge of their mother tongue, which is the more necessary, as many of their hereditary rights and deeds of property are in that language. The negroes speak (as is the case in all our ci-devant slave colonies) a mixed jargon of English and African words, according to the part of the coast from whence they emanate. Of the language of the Arrawaaks, Accawai, Caribisce, &c. little seems to be known ; and the dialects of the Indian nations east of the Andes appear not to have been known even by the profound Humboldt. An extraordinary dissimilarity is observable between the languages and dialects of the natives of Mexico and Peru, and those of British Guyana and the whole east coast of the South American continent — as much so, indeed, as between the Indians of Canada and the other northern states, when compared with those of the southward. The Indians of Guyana do not appear to have any hieroglyphical cha- racters to express their ideas, nor, though possessing a rude knowledge of astronomy, any symbolic almanac, as their brethren on the west of the Andes have. Owing to the great variety of animated nature and of the vegetable kingdom, the language of the Indians is extremely copious. Mr. Hillhouse, to whom I am indebted for the following vocabulary of the four principal nations in British Guyana, says, that the Arrawaak has at least some claim to harmony and expression.* Whether the whole of the languages spoken on the east side of the Andes be not merely dialects of the principal language (Caribisce), is worth consideration. Mr. Hillhouse thinks that the Caribisce, Arrawaak, and Warow, all materially differ in their composition, and never run into each other; while the similarity between the tongues of the Caribs and * The Lord's Prayer in the Arrawaak language is thus given by Mr. Hill- house: — Kururumanny — haamary caleery oboraady — bachooty deweet boossa — baynse parocan bayin so pareeka— yahaboo ororoo adiako — rae- heracheh beyn dacotooniah — Ebehey nebehedow wakayany odomay — Mayera toonebah dayensey — Boboro talidey. — Hedoua'xney. 56 THE FOUR INDIAN LANGUAGES OF GUYANA. Accaways is accounted for by the former calling the latter a brother nation, as the English would do the Americans. With the view of stimulating further inquiry, I give the annexed Vocabulary of Eighty-two Nouns and Numerals in the Four Indian Languages of British Guyana. Note. — Where the Aceaway and the Caribisce are exactly the same, one is omitted. The vowels have mostly the broad accent. ENGLISH. ARRAWAAK. ACCAWAI. CARIBISCE. WAROW. Man Wadeely, VVeenow, Neebooroo. Woman, Hearoo Ebooetey, Woorey, . . Teeda. Boy, .. Eluuchy, Weenofutoonoli, Meh, Noboto. Girl Heariaaza, .. Yemooricoh, . . Yemooroh, Annebacka. Old Man. . . Habettoo, Tompoco, . . Edamoo. Old Woman,. . Daaca Tay Wabotorey, Peepeh, '. . Natweet. Brother, Dalookeytchey, Sayowa Seewoh, .. Daheyey. Sister,.. Dayoodaata, Yeynootey, Wahwah, . . Daakooey. Uncle, Dadayinchy, Vaaooh, Yaawooh, . . Daatoo. Aunt Daarey, Waapoh, Daakatey. Cousin, Daooenchy, Baatomoh, Hesenga. Grandfather, nadookootchy. Taamoh, Taamcoh, . . Nobo. Grandmother, Daacootuh Peepeh, . . Naatu. Grandchild, . . Daalekenchy, Eupaarey, Naatoosenga. Head Daaseye, Eupopo,. . Eubooboh, Maquaw. Neck Daanooroo Yewasacorooey, Yenasally, Mahaabey. Eyes Daacousy, . . Yenooroo, Maamu. Nose, . . Daseery, Yenatarry, Mayhecaddy. Mouth, Daleeroko, . . EubotaiTy, Endarry, . . Maroho. . Hair, .. Uabarra, Eyunsettey, . . Eusettey, . . Maaheo. Ears Dadeehy Paanarrey, Mahohoko. Arms, . . Daadenaina, Yaboorey, Mahaara. Hands, Daacabboo, .. Yeynarroo, Yenarry, . . Maamuhoo. Fingers, Yeynai-oo- \ seeteireh, J " ' Yenarry \ etecdeh, J Mamuhoo. Bones, Daaboonah Yelipoh Moohu. Skin Daada, Eupeehpoh, Mahoro. Flesh, . . Daseeroquaw, Paacah Eubonoh, . . Matoomuh. Back, . . Dahaborooh, Yaabooh, Enganarry, Maahuh. BeUy, . . Daadeybayou, Youcniboo, Eueuboh, .. Moboonuh. Breast, Dalouasebou, Epopooruh, Epoboroh,. . Maameyhoo. Thighs, Dabookeesa, Eiipatooh, Eupeeteh, . . Marolo. Legs Uadaanah, . . Eu.sairuh, Euseedeh,.. Maahah. Feet, .. Daaeooty, . . Eubcbooruh, . . Pobooroh, . . Moomoo. Blood, Cooreesa Mooenooroh, . . Hotuh. Fire Ikhe-kee, Waatuh, Ikkoonub. Wind, •) Air, ; Awadooley, . . Pepcytoh, Ahaaka. Water, Wunney-yabbo, . . Toonah,.. Tooniah, .. Ho. Earth, Ororoo Eetoh, .. Hotah. Sky Ooraroo, \ Casaako, J ' " Caaboh,.. Nahaamootuh. Bow, .. Semaara-haaba, . . Ooreybah, Ataboroo. Arrow, Semaara, Poolevvah, Ataboo. Bow-string, . . S. h.Tecmy, Labarey \ om notch, J " ' Ooreybah \ amootch, J A. Ahootuh, Hammock, . . Daacorah Eubaatey, Hah. House, Baachch, Yeowteh, Hanooko. Corial, Coriaal, Cooriaala, Wayeybacka. Paddle, Nahaaley, . . Abagoeta, Haaheh. Buck-Pot, . . Uawadda, . . Toomaycng, . . Toomaany, Hahlah. Knife,.. Eadawalla, . . Mareea, . . Daabo. Hook,.. Bodeyhey, . . Kehweey, Kuhweh, . . Osceebokay. Calabash, . . Eweedah, auala-y,.. Vlatalu. Club Moossy, Eubodooroh, . . Pooduh, .. Dooseh. Beads. Coraai-a, Casooroh, Naasccy. RELlcaON EDUCATION AND THE PRESS. 57 ENGLISH. ARRAWAAK. ACCAWAI. CARIBISCE. WAROW. Cloth Careniarry, . . Tebooroh, Cameesa, .. Heakaarah . Sugar, Secaruco, Asekara, Secaramutuh. Salt Pamoo, Waaeyu, Bam. Pepper, Haatchey, .. Pooeymuy, Poomeh, . . Hooka. Gun Aracaboosa,.. Arakoobsa, Powder, Culbara, Culbara, Henehbwah. Shot Bala Peeroto, Beerotoh, . . A. Amu. Tobacco, Yeury, Taamooy, Taamuh, . . Aoha. Sun, .. Hadalley, .. Weeyeyu, Yah. Moon, Kaatchey, . . Noonoh, Waanehuh. Stars Weewah, Eeremah, Seereguh, . . Koorah. Rain Wunney, .... Konobo, Naahaa. Wind,.. Awadooley, . . Pepeytoh, Beybeytuh, Ahaaka. Thunder, Acoollia cally. Gonomaru, Nahaa. Lightning;, . . Beylebeleero, Cabeyta, Abeylebeyleh. Hills Ororoo-Ayumuntuh, Wooeybooey, . . Wooboh, .. Hotaquay. Woods, Konoko, Eetoh Daunah. Rocks, Seeba, Toeboh,.. Hoeyu. Sand Murtooko, .. Sacow, . . Kahemrah. Islands, Kai-eery, Paah-oh, Paahuh, . . Bulohoh. One, .. Abaaru Tegeenah, Hesacha. Two Bcama, Asagreh, Monamu. Three,.. Cabooin Osorwoh, Deeanamu. Four Bee-y-beech, Asagreyney, . . Munebee-nahatakanuh. Five, .. Aba dacabbo. Togeneh sell, . . Mahabass. Six Aba temainy. Meah daroy, . . Mohomatuna-hesecka. Seven, Beama temainy, . . Yacombeh, Manam. Eight,.. Cabooin temain, .. Tosorwa-nobeh, Deeanamu. Nine, . . Beeybeech temain. Yacombeh-nelly Nahatakanuh. Ten, . . Beama dacabbo, . . Yuma-cawuh,.. Mooreycooyt. Religion, Education, and the Press. — Throughout the West India Colonies considerable efforts have been made by the local governments and legislatures, for several years back, to promote religion and education ; and by none more so than Guyana ; in Demerara and Essequibo (independent of Ber- bice) there are attached to the Established Church of England, seven rectors and one curate ; to the Church of Holland, two ministers ; to the Church of Scotland, five ministers ; and to the Roman Catholic Church, two priests ; twelve catechists, or schoolmasters, one being attached to each parish church of the English and Scotch persuasion ; besides four schools in George Town for free boys and girls, and slave boys and girls, to which there are two masters and two mistresses. The annual sum paid to the clergymen,* catechists, school- masters and mistresses, from the colonial fund, amounts to 135,450 guilders, equal to about £10,000 : in addition to this * The fixed salaries, independent of contingents and the rectors, are 6000 guilders, or ,£500. sterling a. year : — the Roman Catholic clergyman is placed on the same footing as the clergy of the Established Church, ov those of the Dutch or Scotch persuasion. 58 COLONIAL EXPENDITURE FOR THE CHRISTIAN RELIGION. sum, there have been expended, between the years 1824 and 1831, upwards of 350,000 guilders, equal to about £26,000, on the building of churches and parsonages ; independently of which, large sums have voluntarily been contributed by individuals for that purpose. On the estimate for the year 1832, a suni of 200,725 guilders, equal to £14,337, was placed for the support of the establishment for that year alone. Let it be remembered that these expenses are borne solely by the inhabitants, by taxes levied on them by the Court of Policy, combined with the financial representatives of the community. In Berbice there were, in 1831, three places of worship capable of holding 1,000 persons; and the usual congregation is 800. There are two public or free scliools, with 155 male and 147 female scholars. The press has made as much progress as could be expected in a community where the cultivation of the land and propor- tion of its products forms the chief object of men's attention. There are two well conducted newspapers, a very good almanac, the printing of which would not be discreditable to a London typographer ; and several local works printed in Demerara shew that the mighty engine of civilization, by which I trust its blessings will be extended and perpetuated, is making progress on the continent of South America. Among the English Colonists the Episcopalian is the prin- cipal creed, and each parish has its rector, under the diocese of Barbadoes ; the Dutch have their Lutheran church and minister, the Romish their chapel and minister, all paid (as I before said) and supported by the colony; and there are several active and useful missionaries endeavouring to instil Christianity into the negro population. Of the creed of the Indians we know little. Mr. Hillhouse says that they acknow- ledge the existence of a superior divinity, the universal Creator ; and most tribes also believe in a subservient power, whose particular province is the protection of their nation. Amongst the Arawaaks, Aluberi is the supreme being, and Kururumanny the god or patron of the Arawaak nation. Woorecaddo and Emehsewaddo are the wives of Kururu- CARIB IDEAS OF THE SUPREME BEING. 59 manny — one signifying a worker in darkness, and the other the couchy, or large red ant, that burrows in the earth ; toge- ther, they are typical of the creation of all things out of the earth in the dark. The Caribisce and Accawai call their god Maconaima, also signifying one that works in the dark. Their idea of the creation is, that coeval with Maconaima was a large tree, and that, having mounted this tree, with a stone axe he cut pieces of wood, Avhich, by throwing into the river, became animated beings. The details of this tradition are nearly as absurd and obscene as the mythology of the Hindus — they are, however, sufficiently indicative of the acknowledgement of a supreme being. Mr. Hillhouse thinks the Indians have, undoubtedly, a religious principle amongst them ; but, as they have no priesthood, and no form of worship, it degenerates, as with all ignorant minds, into superstition and a belief in magic. I learn from Dr. Hancock that the Accaways are in perpetual fear of evil spirits, whom they consider night murderers, that continually lie in wait to entrap and destroy them ; the Accaways are in fact real vassals to a fancied daemonocracy. The great and just Creator is believed to be incapable of wantonly afflicting the works of his hands ; and, as his power and unearthly nature places him above the requisition of services from mortals, they conceive that prayers or adoration are superfluous — his will being independent of the wants or caprices of mankind. They laugh at the idea of the supreme power being propitiated by the supplications of individual interest, because they say he is supremely just, and that if he hears the prayer of one, he is bound to hear all; and, as the interests of one individual are always interfering with the interests of others, so, to prevent unjust precedence, he will be influenced by no supplications, but execute his own will, without deigning to consult that of mortals. The Indians of the Spanish missions of the Oronoque, who are of the same nation as ours, believed, that the object of the fathers in confessing, was to obtain a knowledge of their 60 ASCENDENCY OF THE INDIAN PE-I-MEN OR PRIESTS. pecuniary means, in order to lay them under more effectual contribution. As to absolution, they thought the idea of a delegation of such a power to mortals, was too absurd to be worthy even of dispute ; but they readily, from their belief in magic, subscribed to the virtues of the rosary, beads, amulets, and relics. Matins, vespers, and houris, were considered as incantations, and efficacious in expelling the evil spirit; and to this hour, the Spanish Indians of the Orinoco, who all wear the cross, and denominate themselves " good Catholics," chaunting their services morning and evening, have no other idea of a religious principle, than that the performance of these ceremonies gives them a chai'med existence. It is true these Indians are more sober and industrious than any of ours ; but this arises from the circumstance of their having been long congregated in towns and villages, and subjected to the municipal guardianship of the local autho- rities. The Spanish missions evidently began at the wrong end — but, even under this great disadvantage, the Indians slowly improved under their care, from the example of their regularity and discipline, and an exemplification of the su- perior comforts of a state of society. The evil spirit is believed to be the author of all the miseries that afflict humanity: every idea of terror is attached to this power of darkness ; and the pe-i-man, who claims the qualification of an exorcist, is regarded with the greatest con- sequent reverence and respect. The ascendancy exercised by the pe-i-man, can only be compared to that of the Pope, or of a Catholic priest. All attempts, therefore, at conversion, must be utterly futile, except the pe-i-man himself be made an interested party. In the present circumstances, the pe-i-man derives all his power and authority from the conviction of his supernatural agency ; and he moreover derives all his subsistence from the contributions levied on the credulity of the ignorant. This is so truly monkish, that the bad success of the latter need no longer to be wondered at — ' Two of a trade never agree.' To convert the Indians, the pe-i-man must first be made GAOLS OF DEMERARA, &C. 61 sensible that his change of creed will more amply fill his own pockets. To individuals only alive to self-interest (and these form a vast majority in all communities), that religion is always the best which is most in favour of pecuniary emolu- ment. At present, a puncheon of rum, and a few beads or clothes, would convert more Indians than all the holy water that was ever consecrated. It would be therefore highly im- prudent, in the present unprepared state of the Indians, to make religious instruction the first object. There is little doubt that a missionary, more zealous than prudent, would, at this moment, soon receive at their hands the crown of martyrdom ; and one such occurrence would retard their conversion for ages. The slower, yet more certain, medium of association and example, is infinitely preferable. Pageantry, show, and ceremony, have little influence, except as employed for magical purposes ; nor will they respect a priesthood that is not endowed with the most palpable mental superiority. In the foregoing remarks, I perfectly agree with Mr. Hill- house.* The Moravian missionaries would be the most effi- cient converts of the Indians of Guyana. Gaols, &c. In Demerara and Essequibo, the number of persons confined for debt, in 1831, was three; for misde- meanors, sixty-five males and thirty-five females ; for felonies, three males and one female. There is but one prison, and it is capable of containing two hundred and seventy-three pri- soners. In Berbice, there is one prison, suited for fifty pri- soners ; and, in 1831, there were therein twelve males for misdemeanors, and one female for ditto ; four males for felonies, and no debtors. Staple Products. Sugar, rum, coffee, and cotton, form the principal articles of growth and export. The following return, given on oath, shews the production of Demerara and Essequibo for three periods of three years each : — In the first period (1823, 1824, and 1825), 213,478,633 lbs. * It is one out of many lamentable instances of the neglect which talent and enterprize meets with from the British Government, when we find such men as Hillhouse and Hancock unhonoured and unknown. 62 STAPLE PRODUCE OF DEMF.RARA AND ESSEQUIBO. (Dutch*) sugar; 17,779,473 lbs. coffee ; 6,808,913 lbs. cotton. In the second (1826, 1827, and 1828), 239,556,975 lbs. (Dutch) sugar : 13,897,083 lbs. coffee ; 7,389,373 lbs. cotton. In the thu-d (1829, 1830, and 1831), 262,709,559 lbs. (Dutch) sugar; 7,059,431 lbs. coffee; 2,252,557 lbs. cotton. It will be seen from the foregoing, that, while coffee and cotton cultivation has diminished, sugar has increased. We have no returns for Berbice ; there, however, the production of coffee and sugar has increased. The following is a con- secutive return of the Produce of Demerara and Essequibo. DEMERARA. ESSEQUIBO. u ^ Sugar. Rum. Molasses Coffee. Cotton. Sugar. Rum. Molasses Coffee. Cotton. lbs. gal. gal. lbs. lbs. lbs. gal. gal. lbs. lbs. 1810 9,222,659 471,365 19,248,210 5,821,776 13,349,590 600,340 2,269,926 1,293,632 2 12,351,979 815,131 6,167,289 4,322,453 16,317,354 843,035 687,134 399,711 3 13,597,072 847,081 2,951,555 2,408,265 16,758,414 843,286 614,149 267,585 4 12,780,282 722,146 7,431,926 5,494,416 18,526,224 955,523 919,585 529,481 5 18,657,091 965,012 8,270,432 3,844,690 21,865,329 1,026,806 1,586,843 560,298 6 19,869,713 898,009 11,254,206 3,393,980 24,246,068 1,058,886 602,411 426,532 7 22,787,125 946,106 522,988 5,370,418 3,846,889 30,462,555 1,169,161 547,151 935,454 536,048 8 24, 037, -lis 1,025,032 501,068 9,855,717 4,498,591 30,095,438 1,283,389 437,121 818,827 584,683 9 33,009,248 1,4 45,465 526,252 3,033,310 2,485,483 33,781,912 1,356,558 485,499 440,990 228,502 20 35,128,107 1,()7!),031 333,351 4,160,133 2,266,273 35,467,584 1,551,917 407,687 278,77s 150,250 1 30,855,407 1,433,574 306,572 9,898,297 2,482,127 31,279,222 1,284,238 315,200 709,3.59 322,499 2 32,023,713 1,390,667 525,266 6,437,881 3,543,514 33,025,734 1,336,067 574,017 382,455 162,445 3 36,962,174 1,265,035 1,123,667 5,986,435 2,065,957 37,859,359 1,152,981 1,117,376 391,588 178,161 4 34,930,396 1,093,931 1,379,166 4,735,531 1,874,147 34,422,882 1,027,721 1,137,526 255,958 175,168 5 31,631,781 1,053,393 1,311,014 6,059,099 2,297,041 37,672,041 1,014,755 1,459,5.96 350,862 218,439 6 33,001,815 1,204,163 1,333,284 2,579,422 2,527,261 37,101,378 1,144,580 1,162,057 193,074 273,903 7 42,025,893 1,337,267 1,495,326 5,121,773 2,558,767 42,431,339 1,309,191 1,524,898 255,723 111,406 8 42,552,390 1,371,398 1,456,536 5,415,699 1,562,400 42,444,161 1,275,907 1,430,785 331,392 355,636 9 46,357,180 1,810,005 1,113,148 4,450,123 1,127,471 45,295,151 1,579,731 1,175,589 103,666 89,798 30 46,451,553 2,068,028 1,167,.537 1,274,177 546,700 43,220,224 1,908,992 978,374 52,981 67,950 31 32 33 46,504,202 2,030,190 1,607,510 1,449,292 379,068 34,831,249 1,514,608 1,289,036 27,192 41,270 There are many other articles to which I hope the attention of the colonists will be turned. I would suggest opium as likely to succeed, and yield a large profit ; tobacco also, if we can get the duty reduced in England on the colonial product, would be found advantageous. According to Mr. Peter Rose,f of Demerara, the following * 1121bs. Dutch = 1 12 lbs. 4 oz. Avoirdupois. t Evidence before W. I, Parliamentary Cuinniittee. COST OF A SUGAR ESTATE IN DEMERAUA. 6.'J is the cost of producing 10,769 cwt. of sugar, and 58,384 gallons of rum, on an estate in the best part of Demerara, with five hundred negroes, or workmen, on it: — Salt fish, £677. 1*.; clothing, £750; plaintains purchased, £1,143; coals and sugar hogsheads, £1,205; drogherage, £300; salaries, medical attendance, and taxes, £1,500; pork, rice, port wine, bricks, lime, timber, lumber, nails, temper-lime, lamp oil, tar, pitch, cordage, cane punts, &c. £1,096; ma- chinery, implements (employed in the manufacture of sugar and rum), repairs of buildings, negro houses, &c. £1,000; insurance on buildings, £248; — total, £7,919. 1*. Cost of production: 10,769 cwt. sugar, at 12*., £6,461. 8*.; 58,334 gallons rum, at 6d. per gallon, £1,458. 7*. ; — total, £7,919. 15*. These calculations are without reference to the invested capital: this estate cost the proprietors £120,000 sterling. I give the foregoing statement that it may serve for future comparison with a system of free labour. Vegetable Kingdom. It will be observed from the pre- ceding section, that sugar and coffee are the chief vegetable, products of Guyana. Did space and time permit, it might be readily shown that no part of the earth is richer in vegetation than Guyana. The most careless observer is struck with as- tonishment on beholding the magnificent forests and splendid verdure of the South American continent, where every variety of timber flourishes in inexhaustible profusion, and each dye and spice that ministers to commerce or health, scarcely requires the industry of man for its production. Those ma- jestic trees, the wallaba, silvabali, bulletre, and purple heart, whose stems are straight and branchless for seventy feet, and then crowned with splendid foliage, are abundant in various parts of the colony ; but, as the vegetation of all our West India possessions is pretty much alike, and the productions similar to those of the main land, I will here give a detail of the forest trees which, though prepared at first for the island of Dominica, may, with equal propriety, be given under the head of Guyana for the purpose of saving repetition. The commercial reader will perceive what an advantageous timber 64 TIMBER TREES OF fJUYANA. trade we may carry on with our West India colonies, if the import duty be reduced, or, as I hope, finally removed from colonial timber. The timber of British Guyana is extremely valuable for ship-building. Among the numerous varieties of wood, may be mentioned the Mora (mimosa), equal to East India teak, and superior to oak, — it is not subject to dry-rot ; the green heart, a very fine-grained hard wood ; the purple heart, also possessing the same qualities ; the white cedar ; and the locust, or coubarre, &c. The following is a descrip- tion of the different sorts of timber trees, shrubs, plants, &c. natural to our West India possessions, with their qualities, and the purposes for which they are best adapted. The Black cinnamon is generally found about fifty feet in height and two feet in diameter, and delighting in arid and barren soils. The leaves are about the size of those of the orange tree, which they also resemble in fragrance. When fresh cut, the wood is of a deep blood red, but in time becomes quite black ; it is very durable, takes a fine polish, and, from its hardness and smoothness of surface, peculiarly adapted for mill cogs, wheels, and other purposes, where its great weight is not an objection. There is an inferior sort, called the White cinnamon (from its wood being of a lighter colour), only valuable for its leaves and berries, which possess an aromatic pungent smell and a powerful spicy quality, and is esteemed an excellent substitute for the East India cinnamon. The Acoucoa generally grows very crooked, seldom ex- ceeding eight or ten inches in diameter, and is chiefly made use of for posts ; for which purpose, on account of its extreme durability, it is valuable, — most other W. I. woods decaying quickly when exposed to moisture. The Locust tree is often found eight or nine feet in dia- meter, and upwards of seventy feet in height ; the branches begin to spread in the highest parts of the tree, and are very full of leaves of an oval shape, and a dark green colour, about three inches in length ; the blossoms are of the papilonaceous form, with a long flat pod, shaped like the husk of a broad VARIETIES OF WOODS IN THE WEST INDIES. 65 bean, about four inches long, of a strong texture, and a dark brown colour when ripe, containing three beans of the same colour, which are of a farinaceous consistence, and of a plea- sant sweetness. The wood is a rich brown, intermixed with dark veins like marble, and takes a beautiful polish, for which reason it is chiefly used for the manufacture of furniture and articles of taste. It is very strong and durable, and therefore employed with advantage for rollers in sugar mills, &c. The Letter wood, of a beautiful brown colour, mixed with black spots, bearing some resemblance to hieroglyphics, or letters ; (from which circumstance it derives its name ;) is chiefly made use of for walking canes, segar tubes, and other small articles. As the fine part of the wood is taken from the heart of the tree, which is seldom more than twelve inches in circumference, it is not available for work of any size, and therefore confined almost exclusively to the before mentioned purposes. It is about twenty feet in height, the leaves nar- row and pointed, and the flower, which is pentapetalous, and of a purple colour, is succeeded by a red berry. The Ironivood tree grows to the height of about fifty feet, and six in circumference ; the bark is of a whitish gre}', the leaves light green, and about three inches in length, and the flowers white, with red berries. It derives its name from its remarkable strength, but, as it is not durable when exposed to wet, the colonists generally employ it in the interior of their buildings. The Bollo or Bully tree, usually found about fifty feet in height, and six in diameter, is covered with a smooth bark of a grey colour ; the branches, which grow near the top of the tree, are commonly cut into shingles for covering build- ings, being particularly compact and durable, (resisting even wet) ; and therefore very well adapted for house timber, and other purposes, where but few woods would be found an- swerable. The leaves are long, and become narrow towards the foot stalk ; and the flower, consisting of five petals of a beautiful purple colour, is succeeded by blue berries. The Purple Heart tree, so called from the beautiful colour VOL. II. F 66 PURPLE AND GREEN HEART — SILK, COTTON, &C. of its Avood wlien dry, is about sixty feet in height, and two in diameter ; the branches, hke those of the preceding, grow very near the top of the tree ; the leaves are of a dark green colour, about four inches in diameter ; and the blossoms of a deep red, consisting of five petals, and succeeded by red berries, which contain the seeds. The wood is mostly used for furniture when new, on account of its durability, as well as beauty of colour ; but as it gets old the colour darkens, so that at last it becomes as black as ebony. The Green Heart tree, which, like the former, derives its name from its colour, and grows about the same size, is much esteemed for its durability, being of a close grain, very hard, and peculiarly adapted for ships' planking. It possesses the singular property of changing its foliage twice a year ; the flowers are of a yellowish white, tetrapetalous, and are suc- ceeded by a small farinaceous fruit, of which the Indians sometimes make bread, but of a very insipid taste. The CoiK' tree, generally found about forty feet high, and eight feet in circumference, is divided into many branches, plentifully supplied with leaves about two inches in length, and of a light green colour. The bark, of a light gray or ash colour, is of a rough texture, the Avood light, and easy to work, and chiefly employed for the manufacture of domestic furniture. The Silk Cotton tree grows to the height of 100 feet, and twelve or fourteen in diameter, and is very much sought after by the Indians to make their largest canoes. Its roots spread along, on the surface of the grovmd, to the distance of from ten to fifteen feet ; the trunk is covered with a thick, ash coloured bark, set with short sharp prickles : the branches, which do not begin to grow nearer to the ground than sixty feet, are full of oblong leaves about seven inches long. The blossom, which appears only once in three years, and consists of a green calyx, with five white folliculi, and the petals, with five stamina, is succeeded by a bud, containing a fine silky cotton, of a light grey colour, but being of too short a texture for the manufactories, it is made use of for stuffing mattresses. THE PALISADE, BOIS PIAN — RIVIERE, &C. 67 &c. The humming bh'cls are very fond of it (from its soft nature) to hne their nests with. The Palisade tree, the smallest species of palm, is princi- pally used by the negroes for the side walls of their huts, or split into staves ; the stalk being small upon which the seeds grow, is also used by them as a broom. The tree grows to the height of twelve or fifteen feet, and eight or nine inches in diameter, and produces a very fine cabbage. The TrooUes are chiefly employed for covering the roofs of buildings in the country. They are large leaves, twenty feet long, and two broad, of a strong texture, and straight fibres ; growing from a small fibrous root, from which arise eight or ten stems, each producing a leaf of the above dimensions. They are very durable and well calculated for the above purpose. The Bois* Pian is very good wood for house frames and sills, for which it is much used. The shingles made from it will last nearly as long as the best cypress. It is often found fifty feet in height, even when the diameter does not exceed a foot, which seldom extends to more than eighteen inches. The immense length renders it so springy, especially if sawed when green, that the process of sawing is very seldom at- tended with success, if adopted. The Bois Riviere is seldom found far from the borders of rivers or streams, and generally on their edge. It is of very rapid growth, with roots running superficially. It is very heavy when green, but comparatively light when dry, in con- sequence of its parting with so much of its moisture ; of which it imbibes a large quantity immediately when exposed to air. It is therefore evidently very porous, and liable to decay, if so exposed. Nevertheless, it is much used for rafters and other parts of buildings not exposed to wet, and answers the purpose very well in those places. It splits freely, and therefore is not fit to be used where timber of a tough grain is required. It is so tenacious of a nail that has en- * French words in this description are accounted for by a part of it being drawn up for Dominica. 68 SEA-SIDE GRAPE — OLIVIEUE, Scc. tered without splitting it that it is ahnost impossible to draw it, especially if left in the wood any length of time. It saws very smoothly, and will make good boards for many pur- poses. Lauriere Caca, so called from its leaves resembling the laurel, is a very useful wood for various purposes, particu- larly for boards, being tolerably durable ; or for flooring, sides of houses, &c. It reaches to the height of forty or fifty feet, and in diameter about eighteen inches, but seldom more than two feet. The wood has a very unpleasant smell, especially about the knotty parts, very like that of stercum ; it goes off, however, as it dries, and is imperceptible when completely seasoned. Bois Perdrix or Sicard is only found near the sea. It bears a large yellow plum of a sweet and sickly taste, and but seldom eaten by the least refined palate, although not hurtful. Olivier, so called from its resemblance to the olive tree, is a very useful timber, and tolerably durable. It burns with difficulty, and is therefore often used for shingles, to cover roofs near chimnies, or otherwise contiguous to the fire. The Contrerint is tall and straight, the timber likely to decay in damp places, but is sometimes used for beams, being very stiff and strong, but not durable. It makes good fire-wood. Sea-side Grape is never found except near the sea-shore. The timber is very durable in every situation, and very heav}"^, but always so crooked that it can seldom be used in any valuable work. It bears a berry about the bigness of an olive, but quite round, of a beautiful damson colour, with a delicate down upon it, is very juicy and delicious, and much resembling the real grape in taste. The pulp which covers the kernel is the only eatable part, and does not exceed the eighth or sixteenth of an inch in thickness. The kernel has the appearance of the wallnut, but is of a harsh astringent taste, totally unfit for use. The fruit grows in long bunches, very much like the grape. It bears an immense quantity when in favourable situations : the leaves are large and nearly round, smooth and thick. BOIS DIABLE — SOUR ORANGE, &C. 69 The Bois Diable is a native of the poorest, cold, and clayey soils and ridges. It grows to a great height, but never ex- ceeds from two to three feet in diameter. Its shape is regu- lar and straight, but unfortunately the timber is of the worst kind, and unfit for every thing but fire-wood, which it is peculiarly adapted for, as it burns extremely fierce, even when green, and lasts longer than any other wood for that purpose. It is of a deep blood red, and very hard ; whether it derived its name from the latter quality, or its igneous pro- perty, is a question of very little importance, but it is most undoubtedly devUishhj hard and hot. Its bark is thick, and of a very dark-green colour, with small white specks on little rigid eminences ; the leaves small and pointed. The Sour Orange Tree is too well known to need much description. The fruit is no less so, though perhaps not so much esteemed as it deserves. Independently of the common purposes for which it is used as an acid, it makes an excellent cooling beverage in fevers, particularly of the putrid kind, and unites with that quality those also of being both laxative and sudorific. The rind contains an extremely aromatic and inflammable oil, and when squeezed before the fire flashes like gunpowder ; chipped small it is an excellent ingredient for puddings and confectionaries, and in the com- positions of stomachic bitters. The Grigris is very much in appearance like the Olivier, but very much inferior in quality, although it makes good beams and lasts a long time if not exposed to moisture. The greatest objection to it is its liability to warp and spring although sea- soned ever so long. It is of a dark lead colour. The Boisseladame varies in height from forty to sixty feet, and is about two feet six in diameter. The timber, though not particularly valuable, makes very good boards for va- rious purposes. It is when new of a dull rose colour, and smells something like musk ; the leaves are rather larger than a man's hand, and the bark approaches to orange colour. Boisfourmi. — The ramiers, or wild pigeons, are very fond of the berries of this tree. It is of little value as a timber. 70 THE WHITE CEDAR TREE, growing crooked, ramifying very much, and is generally co- vered over with tubercles, which afford shelter to the ants, with which this tree abounds ; from this cause the name is derived. The Bois Jaune derives its name from the colour of the wood, which is of a pale bright yellow when fresh cut. Al- though not of a very close texture it is useful for posts, which will remain sound ten or twelve years ; and is also much used for oars, being light, straight, and elastic; and not cross grained. The Willie Cedar is usually found near the sea shore, and thrives better to windward than to leeward, evidently on account of its receiving more of the saline particles in these situations. It is principally used for ship and boat building, especially for timbers, which it affords of all degrees of cur- vature, and in greater abundance than any other tree in this climate. It is also sawed into boards for planking vessels, being valuable for that purpose as it lasts a long while in the sea water, but decays soon in fresh water or damp situations. It shrinks less in drying than any other wood, and conse- quently swells less, which is a most favourable quality for the above-mentioned use. It is also very light when young, but brittle and almost useless when full grown, tough and cross grained. It grows very crooked and much ribbed in the trunk, especially near the root, which renders it difficult to get boards of any length out of it. Its leaves are oval, with three strong ribs, about six or eight inches long, when the tree is of luxuriant growth, and about five or six wide, but in general much less. In the months of June and July it bears a bell- flower, of a pale violet colour, with small yellow antherae, be- coming yellowish toward the stem, and is slightly odoriferous. The flower is succeeded by a long slender pod, containing some hundred seeds, which are very small and flat, lying close together, and much resembling parsnip seed, being of the papilonaceous kind, and are therefore carried to a great dis- tance by the wind. The pod is about six inches long, and a large tree will bear several thousand of them. The tree grows THE BOIS ANGLOIS, THE BOIS COTE, &C. 71 very rapidly, and stands to a great age. The colour of the wood darkens as the age of the tree increases. The Boh Anglois is seldom found above a foot in dia- meter, and not lofty. The stem is round and smooth, the branches growing by regular stages and nearly horizontal, but slightly inclining upwards. From this circumstance the young stems are much used by the lower classes of people as a charm to stir pots, after having cut the diverging branches to a convenient length. This wood has a strong smell of musk, is very pliant, and much used for oars, staves, &c. but is too scarce (in Dominica) to supply them in sufficient number. The Bois Cote, so called from its growing longitudinally ribbed throughout, is made use oT for ordinary buildings as rafters or plates, but decays too soon to be employed for valuable work. It makes good fire-wood when quite dry. It grows between two or three feet in diameter, and is lofty for its size. The Gommter derives its name from the gum, which exudes from it in great abundance, and is a very useful article to the inhabitants for various purposes. When fresh from the tree it is quite soft and sticky, but becomes hard and brittle by exposure. It burns fiercely, and is much used for torches, especially by the negroes to search by night for crapeaux,* which during the day remain silent and confined to their holes, from whence they issue at night, and by their croaking, guide the frog hunters to their abodes. This gum is a good sub- stitute for tar when mixed with grease, although not equal to the resin from the fir tree, as it is apt to scale off sooner. It has an aromatic smell, but the smoke, which it yields in abundance, blackens every thing near, even the nostrils of those who inhale it, but it is not injurious to health. The wood is principally used for making canoes, on account of the singular property it possesses of expanding by heat ; and is occasionally employed for other purposes, but principally for the former. The stem of the tree is generally round and * The W. I. French, love frogs as well as the Parisians. T3 THE CHATAMER : THE POIX DOUX, &C. Straight, and is usually found about sixty feet in height, and twelve in circumference. The Chatanier Grand feuille derives its name from the re- semblance it bears to the chesnut tree. The shape of the stump is very remarkable, as it shoots out very wide and thin ribs, which begin to spread out at the height of eight or ten feet, and upwards, according to the size of the tree ; so that a full-grown tree will sometimes spread its ribs at the surface of the ground so as to extend to one hundred and twenty feet in circumference, although the stem, where the ribs begin to diverge, may not be more than three feet in diameter, which, in fact, they seldom exceed. It is extremely lofty ; the leaves are very large, of an oval shape, from twelve to eighteen inches long, and from eight to fourteen broad ; the wood is very heavy, and held in little estimation. It is a native of low and rich soils. There is a smaller and inferior specimen of this tree found in high, ridgy, and poor soils. The Poix Doux is of little value for its timber, being of an irregular shape, very small, and the branches beginning near the surface of the ground, and having, therefore, scarcely any stem. The wood besides is of a most inferior quality ; but it is extremely valuable as a fence to the coffee bushes, to which plant it is particularly congenial. The careful coffee planter plants them very near, with no greater interval than six or eight rows of coffee trees between them. The fences are planted both up and down and horizontally, on the sides of the hills, forming squares, like a chess board, and looking very beautiful in a well-cultivated and fruitful coffee estate. These fences are generally lopped and trimmed alternately every other year, leaving the hitermcdiatc fence as a pro- tection until the last cut one can acquire strength to shelter the coffee bushes. These dismembered branches and leaves are considered very useful as a manure to prevent the growth of grass. It is of quick growth, and suffers no injury from these repeated croppings. It is remarkable that the coffee trees which grow nearest to the Poix Doux are always the REASONS FOR PECULIAR LANGUACxE OF DESCRIPTION. "3 finest, and outlive by many years those that are at a distance ; indeed, it may be called the patron of the coffee tree.* Branda. The wood of this tree is mostly used for beams and stanchions, and answers very well for that purpose when it is not much exposed. It springs a great deal when sawed green, grows tall and straight, and seldom exceeds two feet in diameter. Bois Sejjt Ans, so called, it is presumed, from its duration not exceeding seven years, and that too must be under favourable circumstances. It is seldom otherwise used than by being sawed into boards for the most common purposes. It answers very well as heading for sugar casks, and is light and porous, and therefore evidently unfit for durability. Being common, and easily worked, it is often resorted to where better kinds cannot be had, or are too expensive. It has a moderate large leaf, and grows in superficial soil. Bois Violon, It is difficult to give a sufficient reason for its being so called, unless its gi'eat levity may be considered so. It generally grows straight and tall, and about twenty or twenty-four inches in diameter. It is frequently made use of for masts for small vessels ; but is incapable of bearing any great strain, and seldom for that or any other purpose, except from necessity. Its bark is of a very dark colour outside, and strips off freely, and sometimes serves for tying bundles. The v»'ood is of a pale yellow, and smells, when green, exactly like the copariva juice, so much esteemed in medicine, and may probably be a species of the tree from which that liquid gum is extracted. Bois Fred is a very singular tree, being hollow, with thin partitions at intervals of from three to four or five inches distance ; the inner part with a thin integument, that hardens as the tree approaches to maturity: therefore, by the time the tree has arrived at its full growth, the liollovvness almost * Tlie manuscript whence a great part of this descriptiun is derived, I found translated from a French account; the reader will probably, how- ever, agree with me, that the information it convevs, compensates for imperfeclness in literary or scieniiric conipooiiion. 74 SINGULAR KIND OF BAMBOO TREE. disappears. From this liollowness it evidently derives its name. Tlie wood is extremely light, which, added to these vacancies, render it peculiarly useful to suspend any heavy substance in the water. As a timber, it cannot be applied to any use ; it grows from thirty to forty feet in height, with imcouth straggling branches. The young leaves grow in a very curious manner : before they expand, they are enclosed in a sheath, or spatha ; when this bursts, the young leaf expands by degrees, of a beautiful pink colour inside, and white outside, which after being exposed to the rays of light, gradually becomes green. These are of the shape of the vine leaf, with more numerous and deeper sinuosities. They are nearly circular, each ray or division growing from six to ten inches from the leaf or stem; consequently the entire diameter, from point to point, is sixteen inches, but generally considerably less. The interior integument before mentioned is rather pulpy in the young and tender branches, and in that state is used as a styptic to staunch the bleeding of fresh ■wounds, &:c. The outside of the young branches is green; but the bark turns white afterwards, as does the under part of the leaf, which causes the tree to present a beautiful appearance from the contrast it displays with the verdure of other trees. Laurier Blanc is a species of the laurier,* of a Avhite colour, from which boards are produced, of middling quality, for ordinai'y purposes ; but not at all fitted for valuable work. The tree seldom exceeds thirty feet in height, and twenty inches in diameter. The outer bark is of a deep green, stained with whitish spots as large as the hand. Mahaut Cochon is a native of moist and fresh soils, where it may sometimes be found sixty or seventy feet in height, and from three to four in diameter. It bears a large leaf with sinuosities, but not deeply indented. It is very abundant and much used for ordinary buildings, staves for sugar casks, shingles, &c. for which it is well adapted, as it splits free, is easily worked, light, and porous. • Fide No. 12. THE SOAP AND POISON APPLE TREES. 75 Rose Mahaut is a straggling tree, which never rises high, but the branches as they become heavy drop down to the ground by degrees, when they take root and shoot out other branches. The young saphngs before they become too strong are cut down and stript of the bark, which is very useful for common ropes. It is moderately strong, and if the ropes are well manufactured and kept dry, they will last a long time. It bears a large round leaf, six or eight inches in diameter, of a deep green colour on the outer side, and of a whitish tint underneath ; the timber is by no means valuable. It is found near running streams of fresh water, or on the sea shore. Bara Bcira is a middling sized tree, usually about twenty inches in diameter, and proportionally lofty, i. e. twenty or thirty feet high, the wood is seldom used for building, it being so very light and brittle. It bears an apple about the size of an English pippin, of a poisonous quality, which the Charibbean Indians use for poisoning fish, which latter do not however prove injurious to those who eat them.* Savouette, so called from its forming a lather with water in the same manner with soap. The tree grows to a great size, but has a very small leaf, resembling the leaf of the Cassia Fistula. The v/ood is vised for shingles, and boards for ordinary purposes, it has a strong smell of garlic when fresh cut. Galba or Calba. This tree grows to the height of from twenty to twenty-five feet, and about fourteen or sixteen in diameter. The leaf is small and thick, and the wood is prin- cipally used for fences, posts, &c. Bois d'Ail, so called from its strong smell of garlic. It grows tall and straight, and about twelve inches in diameter ; the leaf is long and narrow. The timber is sometimes used for common roofs, but is not much employed, as it is not lasting, and subject to be worm eaten. Boistan. The bark of this tree is much used for tanning " * The name of this tree, as well as of every other, when the same syl- lable is repeated, is Charib. 76 TAN AND GLUE WOODS — MANGROVE, &C. leather, from which the tree derives its name. It grows tall, straight, and about two feet in diameter, and is generally found in steep and craggy places. The wood is tough, and commonly used for boards, cart wheel naves, and other ordinary purposes. When full grown, the colour is of a deep red or blood-colour, and the bark very thick, and of the same colour inside. Pommier, is a soft light wood very similar to the Gommier,* but of inferior quality, although occasionally used by the Caribs for canoes. The leaf is about the size of a man's hand, and of an oval shape. Mangle or Mangrove-\ is a tree of singular structure, as it shoots fresh roots as it grows, which when the tree is at its full age, may be found six or eight feet from the ground ; to which they gradually tend in regular succession. The timber is very heavy and of a free grain, and employed principally for the manufacture of fishing-rods, walking sticks, arrows, and other light purposes. It is not available for building as it soon decays. The leaf is very thick and stiff', and about eight inches long and nine wide. The tree seldom attains more than a foot in diameter, and fifteen or twenty feet in height. The leaves and bark yield a thick juice, which is very viscid and of a yellow colour. Bois JjlanCf derives its name from the colour of its wood ; grows to a good size (about thirty inches in diameter) lofty and straight, of a free grain, and used principally for boards for ordinary purposes ; although not durable, it is less likely to be worm-eaten than most of the soft woods, on account of its extreme bitterness, for which quality the bark may be used in the same manner as that of the Angelin,:}; and with less danger, as it is not so powerful as the former. Bois Glue, so called from the gluey juice that exudes from the bark, on an incision being made in it. This juice thickens when exposed to the air, and is much used for bird-lime, * rideT^o.2G. i Skirts tlie wluilo sc-coast of Guyana, aad most low tropical shores. : /Wr No. 5, CORK WOOD — MASTICII, &C. 77 which is, with the exception of fire-wood, the sole benefit derived from the tree. It grows tall and straight, and of a mo- derate size, and the leaf is six or eight inches long and two wide. Bois Flat, or Cork-tvood. From its very buoyant qualities this tree is thus called, and the wood is very available for fishermen's floats, turtle trammels, fish pots, &c. It is also employed for rafts, to convey heavy timber by w^ater. It may usually be found about thirty feet in height, and twelve or fourteen inches in diameter ; the leaves are rough and round, about tv/elve inches across. The bark is white, and strips off with facility, but has no strength. It has but few branches, which grow in a v/ild straggling manner ; the pith, when dry, is very light and elastic, and may be pressed into a quarter of its original size, but upon the pressure being removed, it assumes its former shape and size. Mastich. The timber of this tree is more durable than that of any before mentioned, very scarce, and only to be met with in a few places to leeward. It is of a brownish yellow colour, and very close grained and heavy. It is very valuable for shafts, and other parts of a water wheel, as it will resist moisture better than any other wood. It has an oily appearance, and will take a very fine polish. When de- caying, it very slowly begins to be affected externally, so that after taking a part out of the ground half eaten through, the remainder will be as sound as the first day it was put in ; seeming to wear away instead of rotting like other woods. There is also an inferior sort called the white mastich. Guava (Psidum fructicosum). The fruit of this tree, which is common every where in the W. Indies, is justly esteemed as very agreeable, especially when preserved, or made into mar- malade. The wood is tough, and used mostly for cattle crooks. The seeds of the fruit are considered a restringent medicine in some fluxes. The foregoing detail demonstrates, as I before said, what a valuable timber trade may be carried on with our West India possessions ; every one of the trees just mentioned might be adapted to a variety of useful purposes in England ; 78 THE CASSAVA ROOT — iMODE OF MAKING before quitting this subject a few more specimens of the vege- table kingdom of the AVestern hemisphere may be mentioned. The Agniero, a species of palm^ has the stem and branches covered with sharp ebony-hke spines six inches long ; it produces a fruit the size of a walnut, consisting of a slimy substance ; the stone resembles a diminutive cocoa-nut, and being susceptible of a high polish, is cut into rings as orna- ments for the Indians' wives and children ; the outer rind is sweet and pleasant when chewed for some time. The Assery fruit groAvs on a species of vine which creeps up the branches of trees ; it is about the size of a large goose- berry, and is of a delicious flavour of sweet and acid resem- bling lemonade. One of the most valuable roots in tropical coimtries is the Cassada, which grows to about fovu* feet in height, covered with an ash coloured bark, dividing near its top into several green branches ; from which spring large leaves supported by a red stalk. The root, when cut, is in substance like a coarse potatoe, the bitter species whereof is* a rank poison until exposed to the action of lire. The Indians manufacture bread from this root, and also a drink called piworrie ; the process observed for the former is as follows. The root is jfirst grated, by means of a large board stuck full of small sharp pebbles, against which they rub it, the pulp is put into a long elastic tube, made of basket-work, about seven feet long, though not above three inches in diameter, and closed at the bottom. This is crammed full of the grated cassada root, which causes it to shrink or contract ; they then extract the juice by suspending it to a beam, and by means of 'a heavy weight attached to the end of it the machine is pulled out to its former size, and the poisonous juice, forced through the interstices, falls into a calabash placed underneath to receive it.f The root, after being thus squeezed and dried in * There are two species, a sweet and bitter Cassava or Cassada ; it is the latter which is poisonous until cooked. t This juice often proves fatal to birds and animals who drink of it. BREAD THEREFROM. SILK GRASS. 79 the sun, is grated, and then sifted through a basket-worked machine constructed for the purpose; and finally made into small thin flat cakes, which are of an insipid taste when dry, but if eaten with fresh butter, palatable : the expressed juice not only becomes innoxious when well boiled, but it forms the principal ingredient in the celebrated pepper-pot of the colonists. Tapioca is the farina of the Cassava, and well known as a light, pleasant, and nutritive diet for invalids. I agree with the celebrated agriculturist. Sir John Sinclair, that the increased cultivation of the bitter cassava, (or cas- sada,) and the transmission of machines for grating it, would be an effectual means of rendering our valuable colonies in the West Indies independent of other countries for food. The Heriheri, a large and majestic tree, furnishes the Indians with an excellent material for kindling a fire. Taking two pieces of this tree they cut a notch in one, and placing the other perpendicularly into the notch so made, by rubbing it round and round between their hands for a few seconds, the friction causes it to ignite ; they then light the maroon, which is a species of moss produced from the behersda, and collected by the ants from its leaves to form their nests with. The Maan tree produces a gum, which when boiled makes excellent tapers ; before boiling it is very hard, and called carimaan. Another tree, called Dalt, bears a berry from which wax is extracted. The Silk Grass Shrub, called by the Indians curra, bears some resemblance to the aloe, but is much smaller ; its leaves rise in clusters immediately from the root, five feet in length, with indented edges, protracted into prickly points. The inner substance of the leaf consists of a number of small strong white fibres, running longitudinally, which the Indians extract by means of a small loop of cord fastened to a post, through which the leaf is drawn with a jerking motion ; this takes of the outer green substance, and leaves the fibres ready for twisting into cord, which is done after drying in the sun. When the cord is made, which the Indians do with remark- 80 THE IIIARY — MODE OF INTOXICATING FISII. able neatness, it makes excellent bow strings, as it possesses extraordinary elasticity and strength. The Iliary (with which the Indians intoxicate fish) is a plant of the papilonacea order, bearing a small quantity of bluish blossoms which produce pods about two inches long less in the leaf than a goose quill, and enclosing about ten small grey leaves : leaf nine inches long, central stem with four spear-pointed leaflets on each side, two inches long and one at the apex : root, when full grown, three inches in dia- meter, containing a gummy milky juice, which is a poAver- ful narcotic, and prepared by the Indians for fishing, by beating with sticks until reduced to a mass like coarse hemp ; the Hiary root is then employed to saturate a corial (canoe) full of water until it is of a milky whiteness, then conveyed to the selected fishing spot, and the water sprinkled with the infusion, (a solid cubic foot of the root will poison an acre of water surface), in about twenty minutes every fish within its influence rises to the surface, and is either taken by the hand or shot with arrows, neither deteriorated in quality nor tainting more rapidly than when hooked. The Cockarito Palm, usually grows to the height of fifty feet, and produces the most delicate cabbage of all the palm species. The cabbage is found in the very heart of the tree at its summit, enclosed in a green husk, which is pealed off in strata, until the white cabbage or inner leaves appear in long, thin, white flakes, and are in taste much like the kernel of a nut; the heart, or centre of it is the most delicate, and, being sweet and crisp, is frequently used as a salad ; the out- side, when boiled and eaten with butter and salt, is far pre- ferable to an European cabbage.* Tlie bark of this tree, on * There is a worm or majjirot natural to this tree whidi is reckoned a great delicacy in the West lisdies. It is the larva of a l>lack beetle, and j^rows to the length of four inches, and as thick as a man's thumi) ; it is called Grofifro — and, although disj^usting in appearance, when well dressed furnishes a delicious treat, partaking of the flav(»ur of all the spices of the East. Grogros are ouly to be found on such trees as are in a state of decay. THE PLANTAIN — MAIZE DE DOS MESES. 81 account of its hardness, is used by the Indians for the manufacture of their poisoned arrows. They are generally cut twelve inches long, with one end sharpened to a point, which is dipped into the poison of the wouralie, so called, from the nebe, or bushrope, which forms the principal ingre- dient in its composition. The other end is wrapped round with a small piece of cotton, adapted to the cavity of a long hollow reed, (usually about nine feet long) into which the arrow is inserted, and by one blast of the breath it is dis- charged with extraordinary swiftness and unerring aim, carrying inevitable death to the person or animal wounded by it. The Plantain tree (whose fruit forms so large a portion of the food of the negroes and labouring population), grows to the height of from sixteen to twenty feet, throwing out its leaves from the top of the stem, somewhat in the form of an umbrella. They are like rich satin, of a shining sea-green till fading, when they hang down in tatters, as their places are supplied by the young shoots ; which open and expand from the top. From the centre of these grows a strong stalk, about three feet in length, that bends downwards with the weight of its purple head, which exactly resembles a calf's heart, and on this stalk, the plantains grow, in considerable numbers, forming one large bunch, of which each tree bears no more than one at a time. When boiled or roasted the plaintain is a good substitute for potatoes, and when ripe a delicious and nutritive desert. The Cariaca, or maize de dos meses, hitherto but little know in Europe, is a sweet and profitable corn, which in the short space of two months from the time of sowing, yields ripe grain. It is not certain whether this plant is a distinct species, or only a variety of the common India corn : but it is in every respect more diminutive, being very slender in its stalk ; and with the leaves and ears also small in comparison with the former. The flavour of the Cariaca is very fine, when roasted in the milk, i. e. before the kernel is dry, when it is very soft and VOL. II. G 82 TIIF. cow OR MILK TREE OF GUYANA. juicy ; indeed, it is usually prepared in this way, and seldom permitted to arrive at maturity. The natives some- times crush, and bake it, and it makes a nutritious, juicy sort of bread which they call Cachapo.* The Tayes, a root growing about eighteen inches high, and a foot in diameter, is much used for food among the negroes ; the white inhabitants likewise boil the young sprouts in broth. The root is very productive and forms the chief food of numerous domestic animals. Of the fruit trees of British Guyana the following, are celebrated for their delicate flavoured products, or medicinal qualities. The Hyahya tree, is of the species of sapotacea, many of which furnish excellent fruit, and some of them are extremely valuable as timber. The whole of this numerous class contain, in a greater or less degree, a milky juice, and in all probability the Hyahya will be found identical, (or a very near species) with the Cow Tree, (Palo de vaca) of Venezuela. It bears a small eatable yellow fruit, of an oblong shape, the leaves are ' oval, rigid, and lactescent on being broken. It yields abund- antly a milky fluid, of a sweetish and rather pleasant taste, also a resinous and albuminous matter, or kind of elastic gum or caouchtou. The tree grows tall, and proportionate in size, but the timber is not reckoned valuable. The Star Cherry is of such size and form as if four European cherries were compressed into one, each division having a stone; the pulp is enclosed within a clear, tender, red skin, of a very agreeable taste, somewhat between sweet and • It is also very often roasted or parched l)y them in the following manner: — an iron pot is filled with sand, and set on the fire till the sand is nearly red hot, when two or three pounds of the grain are thrown in and stirred up with the sand, the latter throws up the grain, which bursts and yields a white substance of twice its size before undergoing the process, which is separated from the sand by a wire seive ; the latter is then re- turned into the pot to be heated up again for the same operation. The flour of maize, mixed with wheat, makes sweeter and more agreeable bread than that of wheat alone. THE CHERRY, GUAVA AND PAPPAW FRUITS. 83 sour, with a slight aromatic flavour. There is another cherry pecuhar to the country, resemhhng very nearly the European, but not nearly so fine in flavour, and but little valued, except for conserves, &c. The former tree, it has been asserted, pro- duces fruit every three months. The Missel or Medlar, is a high growing bush, with small pointed dark leaves, producing fruit about the size of an olive, and in form like the hip of the wild rose, and of the same colour when ripe, but containing no hard stone ; tastes very much like raspberry cream, it is very delicate and will not keep long. The Marctises, grow on a high shrub, with strongly fur- rowed leaves, sharp pointed, and of a light green colour ; the blossoms have some resemblance to the passion flower. The fruit, when ripe, is of a dark yellow, and shaped like a lemon, and when cut through the middle and mixed with wine and sugar, is a delightful jelly, and much esteemed. There is another sort, but of an inferior quality. The Guava tree, rises in Guyana about eighteen feet, the leaves rough, running to a point, and of a dark green colour ; blossoms white, fruit green, at first, but changing to a light yellow, and about the size of a russeting apple, w hich it also resembles in shape ; pulp soft, of a red colour, and inter- mixed with very small hard seeds, taste a pleasant subacid, and forms a rich marmalade, as stated under timber trees. The Pappaw tree, male and female. The male tree may be easily distinguished by the foot-stalks on which the blos- soms stand, being about two feet six inches in length, and by its bearing no fruit. The female grows about fifteen feet high, and eight in diameter, its trunk or stem, is soft, green, and hollow, and the interior part pithy, like the palm ; the leaves are about three feet in circumference, and have some resemblance to those of the fig-tree, but are stronger and more pointed ; they are supported by long green stalks, rising in clusters from the highest part of the tree, and are seldom more than fifteen in number. The blossoms, which are of a pale yellow, are pentapetalous flowers, very fragrant, and 84 CINNAMON APPLE, MARMALADE FRUIT, &C. much used for confectionary. These blossoms are succeeded by a fruit about six inches in length, of an oval form, which when full ripe is of a bright yellow, but it is generally gathered while green, and after extracting the caustic milky juice it contains, it is boiled and served up to table as a vegetable, or made with sugar into preserves. The seeds, when boiled have been reckoned a good antiscorbutic, and resemble the ealad we term " mustard and cress." The Cannelle, or Cinnnamon Apple tree, bears a fruit about the size of a turkey's egg, and of the shape of a pine cone, which, when ripe, is of a beautiful violet colour, and tastes like very rich cream, flavoured with cinnamon. The Marmalade tree fruit, is of a globular form, about the size of an apricot, has a strong skin, and is of a yellowish brown when ripe ; and when the fruit is divided in the middle, the soft pulp, (of a deep red colour) is equal to the best marmalade. The Moiipee, which is very much like the European plum tree, bears a fruit of a dark orange colour, of the shape of an olive, though much larger, which encloses a stone having a acid taste, and fragrant smell. The Maripjia, a species of palm, has fruit as large as an apricot, but rounder in shape, and of an orange colour; it contains a large hard stone, which changes to a jet black ; of this the negroes make rings. The fruit is not much esteemed, but a good oil is made from the kernel. The Simaruba tree has a pleasant bitter taste, and is esteemed a specific against the dysentery, as well as an ex- cellent stimulating medicine. The tree bears a resemblance to the European apple tree ; but the blossom is of a violet colour, and has a sharp unpleasant smell. The fruit, about the size of an English pippin, is of a blood red, and divided into partitions, like a walnut. The Physic nut shrub grows about six feet high, with a slender knotted stem ; the leaves, arising from the top of the branches, are slightly indented, and of an oval shape ; blossom, red ; nut, thin-shcUed ; kernel, about the size of a filbert, CASTOR OIL PLANT, IPECACUANHA, &C. 85 divided into four parts by a thin wliite skin which has lio taste, but, if not peeled off, will occasion a strong purging, and, if a sufficient quantity be eaten, a violent vomiting. The Castor oil bus/t, or jmlfua christi, is about the same height as the before-mentioned shrub ; the stalks jointed, and the branches covered with leaves about eighteen inches in circumference, forming eight or ten sharp-pointed divisions, spreading out in different directions; the flowers contain yellow stamina; the nut is enclosed in a triangular-formed husk, of a dark brown colour, and covered with a light fur, of the same colour as the husk. It has been said there were two sorts of this tree ; but the only difference between them is the colour of the stem — one being green, the other of a dirty reddish colour : their properties are exactly similar, both producing oil of a highly medicinal quality. The Quassia root, whose stomachic qualities are too well known to need description, was first discovered by a negro, whose name it still bears. It is of a strong bitter, and an excellent remedy against the intermitting fever ; but must be made use of with extreme caution, as frequently, if too great a quantity be administered, it enervates the system, and renders the patient liable to paralytic disorders. The Ipecacuanha bush grows about two feet high, with large smooth leaves pointed at the end ; blossoms of a red colour ; fruit, oblong and pointed in shape, about two inches in length, is enclosed in a smooth green husk, containing a number of small flat seeds, of a brown colour, joined by a fine silky filament. Dr. Hancock, to whom I am indebted for many valuable facts in the Guyana chapter, says — 'No soil can be more congenial for the produce of dates, figs, and grapes of supe- rior quality, as proved by the Friars of Carony ; as well as for the various aromatics and spiceries, such as the nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon.* This is the natural soil of the odori- * The writer has observed a wild kind cf cinnamon on the mountains of Rippanonie and Parimma. It is called by the Caribees, wabaima, and by the Portuj^ese, casca preciosa. It grows to u very large tree, having a sweet aromatic bark. The natives represent its vvcod as being very durable. 86 VARIETY OF IMPORTANT FRUITS, DRUGS, SPICES, &C. ferous vanilla, which has been taken to Martinique and sold at fourteen dollars the pound. Dying woods, cochineal, wild honey, gum copal, &c. abound in the forests, beside a multi- tude of treasures unknown to Europeans. *Many of our most valuable and expensive medicines, moreover, could be produced here with facility ; as opium and ipecacuanha, which would give a quick return. The more humid parts would likewise produce the invaluable Sarsa de Rio Negro (Smilax syphilitica), which doubtless, with a little research, might be found growing wild. *It is not improbable that some of the more febrifuge species of cinchona (Peruvian bark tree) would be found on the mountain Mackerapan, or others of the elevated range of Parime. But, whether found indigenous or not, this would afford a proper soil for its cultivation, Avhich would be de- sirable, now that the cinchona forests on the declivity of the Andes are becoming exhausted. 'The Rubiaceous plants are especially numerous in Guyana. There are several different species of coffee growing wild in the interior parts, as well as of the cephalus genus, of which the true ipecacuanha is one ; and there can be no doubt but that the cinchona will likewise be found, all these being of the same natural family. Another tree (of a new genus perhaps) found in Pomeroon, and described by the writer, affords a tonic and febrifuge bark, not inferior to cinchona. 'The cocoa tree grows spontaneously in various parts of Guyana; coffee, pepper, indigo, and vanilla, are indigenous to the soil; manioc and cassada are considered the best ali- mentary plants ; the potatoe, the igname, two kinds of millet, and the tayove, are also very nutritive. 'Guyana is famed for its medicinal plants. It supplies Europe with quassia, or the wood of Surinam. The dolichos pruriens, the palma christi^ a species of ipecacuanha, gentian, the Arabicus costus, the copaifera balsam, and many others, are mentioned in the memoirs of Bajon and Aublet.' Sufficient has been written to shew the value of the vege- table productions of the British settlements on the continent ANIMAL KINGDOM OF GUYANA. 87 of South America ; and I now hasten to offer a few remarks on the — Animal Kingdom. The New World, when discovered by Columbus, was found to contain few quadrupeds, and those few by no means equal in size, strength, or ferocity, to the animals of Asia or Africa ; while some were peculiar to the American continent. Among the principal animals found in British Guyana are the Mypourie (Tapir) ; Jaguar (S. American Tiger) ; Bakkire, Pingo, and Peccary (Wild Hogs) ; Lobba (a small amphibious animal) ; Salempanter (large Lizard) ; Cayman (or Crocodile) ; Coatimundi (or Fox) ; Opossum ; Deer ; Manati (Sea Cow) ; Sloth; Ant-bear; Vampyre, &c. &c. The Tapir, or Mypoiirie, is about the size of an Alderney cow ; its body is shaped like the hog, having short legs and tail, and four small hoofs on each foot ; its head like that of the rhinoceros, with a prominent bone projecting from the forehead, to which its moveable upper lip and nostrils are attached, forming a kind of proboscis ; in its upper jaw there are seven grinders on each side, four front teeth, and two sharp tusks — the grinders very large and deeply cuspidated ; in the under jaw, six grinders and one tusk on each side, and six fore teeth ; the ears are small, oblong, and pointed ; back slightly arched, and covered with short hair of a greyish brown or dun colour. The greatest singularity in this animal is its want of a gall bladder. It confines itself chiefly to marshes and rivers, feeding upon roots and aquatic plants 5 and, when pursued, invariably takes to the water, and there, like the hippotamus, is sure of a safe retreat. The flesh of this animal, when roasted, closely resembles beef, especially if it be young. The hide, when tanned, makes excellent boot soles, and is highly prized by the Indians for the manu- facture of shields. The Bakkire resembles the Egyptian wild boar in shape, but is not so large. It is a native of the high and moun- tainous parts of the country, subsisting on roots, branches of trees, occasionally on snakes and lizards, &c. ; in fact, on any 88 THE MANATI, OR SEA-COW PACA, &C. thing that comes in its way. It is very courageous and fierce when attacked, often coming off best in a combat witli the panther, and sometimes even with the jaguar, but not often with the latter. When young, its colour is Hght brown, marked logitudinally with hght grey stripes, which gradually become dark as it gets old, when it is of an uniform dusky hue. The bristles on its back become very stiff, and raised hke those of a hedge-hog, when the animal is irritated. It has a glandular orifice in the back, containing an offensive liquor, similar to the peccary. The Pingo is another animal of the same species, but smaller, and more slender in shape. Its habits and propen- sities are in every respect the same as the former. The Coney Coney is one of the cavery species ; in form, something like the guinea-pig, but more delicately shaped, having fine long limbs, with which it runs very swiftly. It lives in hollow trees, banks, and other places where it can burrow. Its food is wild plants, roots, insects, &c. The Paca is also like the guinea-pig in shape ; about a foot in length ; its hair of a fine chesnut colour on the back, sprinkled with white spots ; underneath the belly it is entirely white. It is a remarkably clean little animal, and its flesh esteemed a delicacy, something like the European hare, by which name it is sometimes called. It is very docile, and easily domesticated. The Manaii, or Sea-cow, has a head somewhat like a bull- dog, nostrils semi-lunar, and eyes very small and near the ^nout ; it is without ears in outward appearance, but has two small spiracula situated at the back part of the head : mouth large, with soft and protracted lips, fitted for laying hold of the grass or herbage growing near the shore ; neck short, and body covered with a rough, blackish skin, thinly sprin- kled with bristly hair ; the belly and sides near the tail, white. From the shoulders protrude two pectoral fins re- sembling arms, with which it supports itself in the water, and which enable the female to give suck to its young (of •which it only bears one at a time) who receive it from several THE PECCARY \VATER-HAR,E, &.C. 89 porous openings or mammae in the breast of the animal. It has no other fins, but its tail is formed like that of the whale. It is not an amphibious animal, never leaving the water, but feeding upon the aquatic plants and shrubs growing on the borders of the rivers and lakes, sometimes elevating its head to munch at the bushes which overhang them. Its flesh is white and delicate, resembling veal more than any thing else, and when dressed has also a similar taste. It is very singular that the flesh of this animal will keep good several weeks, even in the hot climate of which it is a native, when other meat will not resist putrefaction for as many days. The length of this animal varies from eight to fourteen or sixteen feet. The Peccary, or Mexican Hog, is supposed to be indigen- ous to Guyana, and will not breed with either the wild or domestic hog: it has an orifice in the lower part of the back, from which a fetid liquor is constantly oozing of a very dis- agreeable smell ; and the natives, upon killing the animal, cut away that part to prevent its infecting the flesh and rendering it uneatable. When full grown it is about three feet in length, with finely formed strong limbs, short tusks, and white or grey bristles. A light coloured mark extends from the shoulders on each side of the breast having some resem- blance to a horse collar. The Peccarii run in large droves in the woods uttering a loud noise, and are very vicious and mischievous when pursued or irritated. The Water-hare, (also called the water-hog,) is an animal about the size of a half-grown English pig, of the hippopo- tamus species, but difiJering in shape from those of Africa, although of similar habits. Its mouth is exactly like that of the hare, having long front teeth, the ears shorter and more erect, and the head large and broad. The back is covered with stiff* hair of a dusky brown colour, the belly and inside of the legs grey or dirty white : its tail very short. When pursued by dogs it makes the nearest way for the water, and swimming into the centre or deepest part, waits the attack with coolness. On its pursuers approaching it strikes them 90 THE QUACY-QUACY SLOTH — ANT-BEAR, ScC. with its fore paws, with such surprising quickness and strength, forcing them under the water at every blow, that they are obhffed to return to the shore tired out and half drowned. The flesh is considered excellent food, being white and deli- cate, and much of the same flavour as the tapir (mypourie). The Quacy-quacyy or Coatimondi, (the fox of Demerara) is in body shaped like a dog, of a dark brown colour, and mea- suring two feet from snout to the tail, which is long, hairy, an- nulated, having black rings upon a deep buff*-colour ground ; breast and belly dingy white, jaws long and light brown, snout black and projecting upwards, legs short (particularly the foremost), feet long, and like the bear, frequently standing upon its hind legs, and walking always upon its heels : ad- mirable climbers, very cunning and strong, and great depre- dators on the poultry-yards of the planters. The Sloth, of which there are two or three species, varying in size, is usually about two feet in length, with a head like a monkey, mouth exceedingly wide, eyes languid, hinder legs shorter than the fore, hair long, bushy, of a dirty grey or reddish colour, resembling moss, and with three or two toes, (according to the species), and long and arched claws, with which it clings to the branches always hanging from them, (never standing on them), in which position it is to be found asleep or in action. Its flesh is devoured with avidity by the natives. The Ant-bear measures six feet from the tip of its long tail to the snout, covered with long shaggy black hair on the back and belly, and on the neck and sides of a yellowish grey, the head extremely long and slender, of a light bay colour, ears short and round, mouth without teeth, and only large enough to admit its tongue, which is nearly twenty inches in length when elongated on an ant hill, and resembling a worm covered with slime. When seeking food the bear stretches his tongue on a hillock and draws it into his mouth as often as it is covered with the ants, which stick to it in crossing. The hind legs are black, shorter than the fore, and having five claws ; the fore legs are of a dirty white, with four claws, the TUB JAGUAR — TIGER CAT — CRABO DAGO, &C. 91 two central of enormous length. The ant-bear travels slowly (walking on the outside of his fore feet) in search of ant hills, and when asleep covers itself with its enormous tail. It is esteemed good eating. The Jaguar, or, as it is sometimes called, the South Ame- rican tiger, (although it more properly should be classed with the ounce species,) is of a beautiful bright colour, between brown and yellow, and when full grown, about the size of, and very much resembling the ounce in shape ; the top of the back is striated, of a dark colour, which, as the animal gets old, become at last quite black : the sides are beautifully variegated with irregular oblong spots open in the middle, with a central shading of a light yellow. The jaguar is very courageous, and will attack an ox or buffalo ; but if he fails in bringing it down, he retires to seek an easier prey, which, should he not obtain, he will then lie in wait for the human species ; this, however, is very seldom the case, unless when compelled by extreme hunger. It can swim well, crossing the large rivers with which the country abounds with the greatest facility. The Tiger Cat is as large as a well grown European cat, but more slender in shape and longer limbed ; usual colour light grey, head striped with black, and body marked with long irregular dark spots : there are some variegated with red and black. They live generally in the woods, feeding upon small lizards, mice, birds, &c., and when taken quite young may be domesticated. The Crabo Dago, (i. e. a dog living on crabs,) is about two feet long, and nine inches high, head large, and snout full and thick like that of the hyena, tail long, and legs rather short : the colour generally is a greyish brown ; it lives upon crabs, birds, and fruits ; is not ferocious, but very mischievous. There is another species of crabo dago, described under the title of quaci-quaci. None of the native dogs of South America have any voice. 92 OPOSSUM — ARMADILLO — DEER, &C. The Ojwssum,^ small animal of the Kangaroo species, varies from six to thirteen inches in length, the colour sometimes black, brown or grey, head oblong, and large in proportion to the size of the body, eyes small, ears large, pointed at the end, and standing upright ; the tail long and prehensile, but not hairy in general ; the feet have five toes with sharp claws, except on the large toe on the hind feet, which is round. Its chief food is nuts, buds of trees, and grain of any kind. There are two or three sorts of this animal, but the above will suffice for a general description. The Armadillo (of which there are several varieties) is covered with a strong crust of scales or shells, in hexangular figures, and of from seven to ten moveable bands, the last of which is only halfway upon each side; the head is very oblong, ears in pi'oportion and erect, claws sharply pointed, and tail long and jointed. The animal rolls itself up when sleeping, to cover with its armour its vulnerable parts (the snout, ears, and belly,) in case of attack ; it is a quiet, harmless creature, feeding upon roots, worms, and other insects, and grows to about eighteen or twenty inches in length : its flesh is consi- dered delicate eating, somewhat like a rabbit in taste and colour, and it burrows in the ground like that animal. When pursued it begins digging a fresh burrow, if too far off its own retreat ; and when half buried, and its tail taken hold of by its pursuers, it will sufier it to be torn off sooner than let go its hold : the Indians tickle it behind with a small stick, which soon causes it to relinquish its hold, and allow itself to be taken. There are two species of Deer very numerous in Guyana, the one resembling in shape the fallow deer of Europe, but with shorter and less branching antlers, usually of a brown grey ; very fleet and courageous when closely pursued. The other, something like the European roebuck when young, of a light brown, with longitudinal stripes, of a clear white, about the size of a goat, very delicately framed, and without horns. It lives chiefly in the marshy parts of the colony, and MONKEYS — BABOONS, &C. 93 if taken* when quite young may be domesticated, but never lives long in that state, gradually pining to death. When full grown, its colour becomes uniformly brown. The Baboons and Monkeys of Guyana exhibit great variety ; — among the most remarkable are, — The Holding Baboon, — of a bright ferruginous colour, and about thirty inches in height when standing erect ; face beard- less, quite bare, and covered with a black skin, as are also the hands : tail prehensile, and of considerable length. The cartilaginous organ with which the rattling noise is made, from whence it is named, is about six inches in circumference, in the form of the cup of a wine glass, with the upper part turned to the windpipe, and surrounded with numerous mem- branes, which can be opened or closed according to the plea- sure of the animal ; the noise issuing from it is clear and shrill, and can be heard at a considerable distance. The Kissee Kissee (of the Sapajou species) is about the size of a half grown cat, perfectly symmetrical in form; head small and round, face of a flesh colour, and covered with short white hair ; eyes large, black, and piercing ; the tip of the nose and the mouth surrounded with black hair ; the body is of a bright gold yellow shaded with brown, the under part white ; hands and feet orange colour ; the tail, which is tufted at the end, dark brown or black. When this little animal is taken young it becomes quite domesticated, but if confined to a room or chained up, soon frets itself to death. There is a rare species of the sapajou which can seldom be caught, about the same size as the above, but differing in colour, — the body being brown, the head face and hands black, the chin edged with a short straight beard, which is continued all round the head; the face is flat, and the cartilaginous * The Indians have a curious metliod of talessing twenty- five slaves, or paying tax on an income of ten thousand guilders and upwards, the term of service to be limited to five years, but the members who have served to be immediately re-eligible. In accordance with the ancient practice, a financial representative may hold the office of Kiezer and vice versa, but no person actudly filling a judicial situation, whether REQUIRED FOR BRITISH GUYANA. l.^? appoiuted by His Majesty, or elected I»y the Kiezers, as a colonial member of the court of justice, to be eligible to the. office of Kiezers, or financial representative, or to a seat in the Court of Policy, either as an ex-oflScer, or a colonial member ; the Kiezers, in a meeting of not less than five of them, to elect, as formerly, the colonial members of the Court of Policy and Justice ; nominating such persons as from their stations, respectability talents, property, and residence in the colony, they may, on oath, deem best qualified to discharge those important duties, without reference to the particular district, in which the property of the party elected may be situated. The qualification of a colonial member of the Court of Policy, to be, as now, the possession of a plantation in the colony, or as regards three seats in the court, the paying tax on an income of not less than *f. 20,000, coupled with a residence of seven years in the colony. The court of justice to consist of eleven members for Demerara and Essequibo, namely, the President and two Puisne Judges nominated by His Majesty and eight colonial members, chosen as formerly by the Kiezers. For Berbice also of eleven members, namely the President and one of the Puisne Judges of Demerara, the Puisne Judge of Berbice, and eight colonial members, the President, two Puisne Judges, and at least four Colonial Members to form a Court, which should set once in every three months, in each colony. One Puisne Judge, to hold the Roll Court every fortnight, and to discharge the duties now performed by the presi- dent, granting arrests, &c. &c. One Puisne Judge, and two colonial members, to hold the Commissary Court every month. The rules for proceeding, to be drawn up by the Court of Justice, and submitted by the Court of Policy, if approved of, to be made law by the latter court. The Deputy Fiscals in each district, or others, appointed magistrates, to hold courts for the recovery of debts under f 100, and for the trial of minor offences, with authority to inflict punishment by imprisonment, not ex- ceeding one month, or fine, not exceeding f 100, or by whipping; three magistrates to form a court. The colonists also complain of the exorbitant fees of the public oflQces as at present regulated in the colony, and they require the table to be revised, and new ones formed by the combined court on more equitable principles ; the remodelling of any of the existing offices, to be effected by the Court of Policy. As regards those public officers who have fixed salaries, the colonists desirous of proving their readiness to give government every fair support, would disclaim all interference with the salaries of the governor or Lieutenant-Governor, the President, the Puisne Judges, Fiscals, and the protectors of the slaves, unless with the previous sanction of His Majesty's * /. florin or guilder. 128 DIVISION OF DEMERARA INTO PARISHES. ministers ; tbey would only stipulate that tliese salaries should now be adjusted to tlie circumstances of the times, on a scale to be approved of by His Majesty; the salaries of the public officers to be revised by the com- bined court, with reference to the diminished expense of living in the colony, and the impoverished resources of the inhabitants." I have every hope that this reasonable prayer of the Guyana colonists will be granted ; no minister who watches the signs of the times and provides for coming events will refuse an accession to just claims. Demerara and Essequibo contains eleven parishes, whose names and extent are, St. Marys, extending from Abary Maicony, and to Mahaica, thence to Plantation lowlands inclusive, and embracing the settlements on the banks of the Maicony and Mahaica creeks ; St. PauVs, from plantation Northbrook to Cuming's lodge, inclusive ; St. George * and St. Andrew united, embrace George Town and the plantations on the Cumingsburgh canal ; aS'^ Mattheiv, from George Town up the East bank of the • George Totrn, the capital, is divided into districts, thus ; — Kingston, joining Fort William Frederick ; Cumingsburgh, North and South ; Vlissen- gen, which is sub-divided into Robs Town and Lacey's Town. Stnbroeh, a district in itself, and ancient part of the Dutch capital; aUo en Rust and Charles Town, which are bounded by plantation La Penitence ; to the Eastward of Fort William Frederick is situated Camp House, tlie residence of the Governor- a few hundred yards to the East of which is the re- sidence of the Ordnance Storekeeper. Between Camp House and the Ordnance Department, a little to the South, are placed two splendid hos- pitals, with kitchens, cisterns, &c. for the military— nearly opposite to which tlie new military l)arracks have been lately erected ; they cannot be surpassed in accommodation in any part of the King's dominions — two for the men and officers, with kitchens, servants' apartments, cisterns, &c. &c. To the Eust of the Ordnance Department are the quarters of the engineers' — and adjoining the engineers' quarters are the York and Albany barracks, built by the colony, for the accommodation of 200 men and othcers. Facing the river, in the district of Stabroek,new public buildings of bricks, stuccoed, have been erected by the colony to accommodate all the public officers — they have cost the colony upwards of ^50,000 sterling ; near to the latter is the Scotch church, a very handsome modern building — to the Eastward of which is the town guaid-house, is:c. MILITARY DEFENCE — FINANCE OF GUYANA. 129 the river, as far as the settlements extend, including those in canal No. 3 ; St. MarJc, from plantation jNIindenburgh along the W. bank of the river as far as the settlements extend, including those on canals No, 1 and 2 ; St. Swithin, from plantations La Grange to Jalousie inclusive ; aS*^. Ltike, from plantation Blakenburgh inclusive to the Essequibo river, and along the E, bank upwards as far as the settlements extend ; St. Peter comprehends Leguan and Hog islands, in the mouth of the Essequibo river ; St. James, Waakenham and Troolie islands, in ditto ; St. John, from Schoeven creek to Capoey ditto, on the W. coast of Essequibo river, including the set- tlements on the intervening creeks and on Tiger island ; Trinity, from Capoey creek to the Pomeroon river, and as far as the British settlements extend. Military Defence. Each male freeman between the ages of sixteen and fifty is compelled to enrol himself in the militia, which is liable to be called out at the pleasure of the governor, for service, not extending beyond the preser- vation of internal tranquillity. The strength of the militia may be reckoned at five thousand men. The senior officers in the country are justices of the peace, and exercise a juris' diction over certain districts, each of which is distinguished by different coloured banners. They are termed burgher officers, and their duties in general consist in promulgating proclamations, taking depositions upon tax schedules, carry- ing into effect public and local laws, and putting down any disturbances which may arise within their jurisdiction. Finance — Revenue. — The items of taxation in Demerara and Essequibo are principally as follow: — Tax on produce yielding about 220,000 ^or«w4r ;* on income /. 46,000; on horses and carriages f. 30,000 ; tonnage and beacon duty f. 30,000 ; ivine and spirit duties, and tax on transient traders f. 65,000 ; poll tax on slavesf f. 28,000 ; grog shop licences f. 10,000; gain on bills of exchange f. 20,000. * A floriu or guilder is equivalent to ISs^tivers — each one penny English. t How this tax is in future to be levied is not known or provided for. VOL. II. K 130 ANNUAL INCOME OF DEMERARA AND ESSEQUIBO. The following is an account of the receipts of Demerara and Essequibo for 1830.* Bills on the colonial trustees on account of dividends on funded property, £4642. 17*. \d, y. 65,000; bills drawn on colonial trustees on account of ilmded property sold, £21,128. Us. 5(1.— f. 300,000; saving bank of slaves,/. 1,360. 0.0.; arrears oftax on slaves, 6,374, 0.0. horses and carriages, 3,954.0.0.; income, 14,507.0.0.; produce, 30,732. 18.0.; cart licenses, 2,310.0.0.; liquor and grog shop licenses, 9,100. 0. 0. ; huckster licenses, 1,175. 0. 0. ; beacon and tonnage duty, 31,259. 0. 0. ; tax on slaves, 28,902. 0. 0. ; horses and carriages, 30,132. 0. 0. ; income, 46,579. 0. 0. ; produce, 227,457. 19. 12. ; wine and spirit duties, and tax on transient traders, 65,109. 11. 8.; amount refunded, being expended last year for repaii'ing the Leliendaal road, 9,066. 0. 0. ; amount from the king's chest, for half expenses, sea dam, last year, 1,017. 10. 0. ; fines from the protector of slaves, 2,400. 0. 0. ; a fine from A. M. Meerteens, Esq. (returned a member of the Court of Justice) 3,000. 0. 0. ; amount refunded by plantation Craig, being expended for making up the road, 3,410. 0. 0. ; a fine from his honour the first Fiscal, 1,100. 0. 0. ; ditto the second ditto, 220. 0. 0. ; amount from plantation Retrieve for a negro given up from the colony workhouse, 1,000. 0. 0. ; law expenses paid, 388. 15. 0.; gain on Bills of Exchance, 19,230. 7. 8.; surplus jail fees,. 8,824. 11. 0.; table money entered in 1829, not called for, 12. 0. 0. ; refunded from the ordnance for money expended on camp house, 18,200. 0. 0. ; total receipts, /. 931,821. 17. 12. It will be perceived that part of the annual income of the Guyana government is procured from a 'property tax. The following is the valuation of produce in Demerara and Esse- quibo alone, as retvirned on oath for taxation in 1830. * This is the latest year I can obtain in England ; for Berbice I find the gross revenue receipts of 18.31 to be ^4' 11,611 sterling; 1 repeat, there ought to be annually laid before Parliament a detail of the revenue and expenditure of every colony, as is now done for India. PROPERTY TAX IN BRITISH GUYANA. 131 PROPERTY TAX IN DEMERARA AND ESSEQUIBO FOR 1830.* VALUATION OF PRODUCE, AND Sugar . . . , Rum (proof 24) Do. ( do. 22) Do. C do. 21) Do. ( do. 20) Do. ( do. 19) Do. ( do. 18) Molasses Coffee . . . . Cotton Plantains sold , Cattle do. . 91,052,331 lbs. 2,411,310 gals. 20,573 do. 111,917 do. 360,430 do. 423,248 do. 61,230 do. 2,288,737 do. 4,555,789 lbs. 1,217,269 do. in value do. at 2^ s. — 14 — 16 — 18 - 6i Amt, of Income returned for Taxation /. /. 10,310,887 1,687,938 16,458 101,625 342,408 423,248 67,353 915,494 1,138,947 395,812 526,424 64,844 3,500,000 Total /. 19,491,438 RATE OF TAXATION ON PRODUCE. at 3|/. per 100 lbs. /. 154,663 — 21 — 100 gals. 25,319 — 24 — 246 — 27 — 1,524 — 28i — 5,136 — 30 — 6,348 — 33 — 1,010 — 12 — 13,732 — 7i 100 lbs. 17,084 — 93 — 5,934 — li pr. ct. on 526,424 9 7,896 — do. 64,844 972 Producing, at li per Cent. /. 292,368 Total /. 532,232 Exclusive of the taxes raised by the Combined Court, de- nominated the colony taxes, there is a tax of/". 3.10. per head, paid on all working slaves, and J". 1 per head on chil- dren from three to twelve years ; this is called the King's taxjf and is under the sole control of the Governor ; besides which a revenue is derived by grants of crown land, on which acre money is paid, which is likewise paid into this chest. The revenue arising from these sources amounts to about £12,000 per annum, one half of the following salaries are * Abstract of the total yearly revenue and expenditure of the King's Chest at Demerara and Essequibo, from January 1819, to December 1826. In 1826 the King s taxes were productive as follows : — Capitation tax 10,050/. ; fees paid into the chest by the President 379/. ; acre money, 122/. ; licenses to wood- cutters, 62/. The capitation tax and acre-money are levied under the authority of the Lieutenant- Governor and Court of Policy ; the licenses to wood-cutters are granted by the Lieutenant-Governor solely, and are paid for at so much per annum, according to the value of the lols leased. t Of Derbke, I can only obtain the following details of finance : — For eight years ending 1826, the revenue .^134,482 ; expenditure, M 141,308 — deficiency, .£^6,825. Supplied by an issue of paper currency. Revenue. Expenditure. 1819 £ 12,596 .^^11,660 1820 13,234 . 1 1,255 1821 13,527 . 11,702 1822 6,353 . 11,250 1823 12,805 . 11,853 1824 12,651 . 13,295 1825 23,493 . 15,278 1826 10,628 . 14,635 £ 103,290 £ 100,931 IS2 ANNUAL EXPENDITURE OF GUYANA. paid from this fund; Governor, President of the Court of Justice, Protector of Slaves, besides various other officers, who hold appointments under the crown, but which have little or no duties attached to them, several of which have been lately abolished. Eccpendifure. The disbursement of the sums levied accord- ing to the foregoing account for Demerara and Essequibo is thus given for 1830, the latest year before me. Amount remitted, Hall, M'Garel, and Co. for balance due to 31st December, £2,284. 6s. 5d.—f. 31,980. 10. 0; Amount remitted. Hall, M'Garel and Co. for cost of new paper money, &c. £358. 10*. 8r/.— 4,302. 8. 0. ; provisions for reli- gious establishments, 14,084. 9. 0. ; repairs of the court house, 9,000. 0. 0. ; cost of the new public buildings, 197,584. 0. 0; extraordinary expenses, 22,064. 2. 0. ; contingent arrears, 3,975. 5. 0. ; repairs of public buildings, 13,981. 16. 0. ; ba- lance of a negro sold and credited last year, 190. 10. 0. ; amount of militia fines paid, 100. 0. 0. ; amount of taxes re- funded, twice paid, 148. 0. 0. ; table money, 39,678. 15. 0. ; fixed annual salaries, 297,425. 0. 0.; annuities, 13,194. 0. 0. ; colony jail expenses, 17,703. 10. 0.; house hire, 21,004. 0. 0.; expensesofjustice,30,014. 5.0.; militiaexpenses, 6,913. 19.0.; allowances and rations to the Indians, 24,034. 6. 0. ; colony house expenses, 18,636. 0. 0.; colony hospital expenses, 7,403. 15. 0. ; printing expenses, 6,238. 10. 0. ; vote to sur- geon of the tread-mill, 1,400. 0. 0. ; contingent repairs of colonial barracks. 9,857. 15. 0.; recording manumissions, 4,800. 0. 0.; additional vote to Mr. Veret, 1,200. 0. 0.; vote in aid of free schools, 2,100. 0. 0. ; amount voted to the pro- prietors of lots in America street, 4,256. 0. 0. ; amount paid to Captain Luckie for a lot of land, 1,400. 0. 0. ; expences of steam boat ferry stelling, 4,471. 15. 0. ; repairs of sea dam, 320. 0. 0. ; expenses of the light-house, 6,078. 12. 8. ; ditto main roads, 9,000. 0. 0. ; ditto beacons, 2,562. 0. 0. ; ditto and renewal of public stellings, 10,645. 0. 0. ; triennial pre- sents to the Indians, 16,500. 0. 0. ; repairs of public bridges. MONETARY SYSTEM OF BRITISH GUYANA. 133 1,007, 4. 0.; expenses of bush expeditions, 591. 18. 0. ; the receiver's commission, 23,000. 0. 0. ;— total/. 877,947. 4. 8. Among the fixed salaries (that is those which are not altered from year to year) are, the Lieutenant Governor 35,000 g.* (sterling, £2,500.) ; the President of the Court of Justice, 21,000^. (£1,500.); first Fiscal, 25,000^.; second Ditto, 15,000 g. (The table money to the officers of the King's regiments and to the Governor has been recently reduced ;) six Post-holders have 13,200^. (each 2,200); and four As- sistants to ditto, 2,792^. The Ministers of St. Paul's, St. Swithin's, St. John's, St. Luke's, St. Mary's, St. Marks, St. Peter's, St. James', St. Matthew's, and Trinity Parishes, have each 6,000 g. ; the Minister of St. George's, 5,000 g. ; the Roman Catholic Clergyman in George Town, 9,450 g. ; the Adjutant General of Militia, 6,000 g. ; the Colony House- keeper, 6,000 g. ; the Colonial Agent in London, 5,600 g. ; the Protector of Slaves, 7,000 g. ; the Accountant in the Fi- nancial Department, 7,200 g. ; &c. Monetary System. — The monies of account in British Guyana are — guilders, stivers and pennings ; sixteen pen- nings one stiver, twenty stivers one guilder. Dutch English Guilder. Stivers. Pennings. Half-a-crown =1 - 15 - One shilling - - 14 - Sixpence - - - 7 - One penny - - 1 - 4 Half-penny - - - 10 Farthincr - - - 5 Pass at these rates by virtue of a proclamation of the Go- vernor. The Par of Exchange is 12 /. per £. sterling ; but for many years it has been at 14 /. per £. except for the year 1832, and part of 31 and 33, when it ranged as high as • The other half of the Governors' salary is paid from what is termed the King's chest, the funds of which arise from licenses for wood-cutting, lands granted, capitation tax on slaves, &c. 134 PAPER crnnENCY in British Guyana. IG.IO/. per £. ; it is now at 14 /. per £. and which is the rate that the Governor's salary is paid, and all other officers of the Crown who have a fixed sterling salary. The metallic money in circulation consists of Spanish dol- lars ; three guilders equal to a dollar. The Colonial silver coinage, consists of three-guilder pieces, two-guilder ditto, and one-guilder ditto, and ten-stiver and five-stiver pieces. The paper currency is secured on funded property and Colonial security, and amounts to 2,199,970 guilders. The money invested in the three per cent. Consols and Bank Stock nearly cover the paper money of Demerara and Essequibo in circulation. Notes of twenty joes are equal to 440 guilders, and proportioned down to one joe, which is equal to twenty- two guilders. Amount of Property in Guyana. It is difficult in any community to ascertain the amount of property in a given place, or for a fixed period, partly from its fluctuating nature, partly from its relative value — that which may he worth ,£1,000 at one time, and in one country, being scarcely worth more than half the sum if attempted to be realized in cash for transmission to another place. In every instance, there- fore, where the value of property is given in the History of the British Colonies,'^ it must be considered in the light of an approximation to truth, and for the purpose of affording a comparison between one colony and another. The following detail will probably affiard the most correct view of the subject. * I had intended to ^ive a table of the property in every W. I. posses- sion ; I find however that considerable space would be occupied therewith ; 1 would therefore request the reader to observe, that the data given on the next page will enable him to find the amount of property created, &c. by referring- to the statement of annual produce, and calculating accord- ingly. VALUE OF PROPERTY IN GUYANA. 135 3 83 c 3 o PQ -5 >. c3 ri flj > rr O ?: bf.) S 1— 1 C ^ Tl 0) r-i rii c rt nl Ol > o >-> s o c s rt fcO •\ ri ^^ (U ""T* ri » s s c s <1 >". •4.J ^ 0) &I o ti Ph ««- o 0) s 93 > •Xjjddojj 3]qu,'>A0iu:ui p;i« aiqujAun! JO lEioj, S ^n-n-.. •p;ijB3J0 V AWadoJd JO in^oj. S 1 -J a < K i> O s Q < > O o « •uoi}e(n3a!3 ai 0103 ^'i?^ p. •^iDO);; SAn •ssaojs Wharfs, Boats, Rafts, Merchan- dize, Canals, Roads, &c. •Dj'sosnoi, irojipAid iff,! ■ijjodojj 3ni"j -3 1 •0 0^ ■p3)VA!)in.iaa ii •psjiiejo puB p31BA!4[n3 3 K H W S u > J a z PS K 0. o £ •sauputis JJ oraoauj 1 ■apsm ssipasqajsit 1 •pooj aiqsisSaA pu« pooj iBuiiav '^Mi •SK-.BjaBij IWil •uo)|i>0 -ft •33503 'sassajOfQ •rana •nSng -"55 ti_. ~ S "^ li> (U 0) "o ♦^ TS %% « .« ■i) -S R ^ .ti 2? == ^SJ .^ CJ « 5 'O tn ^ he L> ^ & be o ^ ^ ^ J Si ?, -5 : 4) OJ CJ li i.-^ .-^ cS "rt s 'S s L>' ni ^ , •"* cc X & !■,! OJ c rt CS ^ >. ,^ s ^ ■^ "3 C3 C P a (l< ;; CO C3 •cj: bn 2 CS <0 ?s -S -r O — I « bfl 3 a fl 3 C3 s b -; 4i <^ ■M ^ es ^ T? In C3 « CI !=^ ., tu >! .jo « 5 T3 etf S» 3 .s t) a C ^ H 3 " H S H-. tn •— •^ c;i d HH U .(^ a; *-^ Ui •M CT> lU t:^ S S (£. <^ := 136 IMPORTANCE OF THE BRITISH SETTLEMENTS IN GUYANA. General View and Future Prospects. The importance of our possessions in South America may be gathered from the foregoing detail. The social condition of the mass of the population is now in too great a state of transition from slavery to freedom to admit of much speculation as to the future ; and, reserving my general views of the whole on our West Indian possessions for the termination of the volume, I conclude with observing, that British Guyana offers a wide and fruitful arena for the industry of the emigrant, the enterprize of the merchant, and the science of the geologist and natural phi- losopher. Millions of acres of fertile land, now lying waste, are adapted to the cultivation of every tropical product of which the mother country stands in need. Cotton, tobacco, opium, silk, pepper, rice, indigo, timber, drugs, dyes, and spices, may be raised and exported, to an incalculable extent, with benefit to all who engage in these pursuits. There is wanting to develope the resources of so fine a country, the granting of a free government to the colonists — the disposal of the crown lands, at a nominal quit rent, to intending emigrants — the reduction of the duties in England on articles of colonial growth and manufacture, or the permission being given to the Colonists to trade with any European nation they choose, on their own terms. Surrounded, as British Guyana is, by the continental possessions of France, Spain, Holland, Portugal, &c. it behoves the British nation to view with interest, and even anxiety, the progress of our colonial power on one of the most eligible spots of the American hemisphere. CHAPTER II. JAMAICA. HISTORY, PHYSICAL ASPECT, MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, GEOLOGY, SOIL, CLI- MATE, MINERAL, VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL KINGDOMS, POPULATION, GOVERNMENT, CIVIL AND MILITARY ESTABLISHMENTS AND STATIONS COMMERCE, IMPORTS AND EXPORTS, MONIES, WEIGHTS AND MEASURES, REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE — THE PRESS, EDUCATION AND RELIGION, VALUE OF PROPERTY, SOCIAL STATE AND FUTURE PROSPECTS. Locality. — Jamaica, (Xaymaca* or St. Jagof), a magnificent island, one hundred and sixty miles long, by forty-five broad, containing 4,000,000 acres, and situate between the parallels of 17.35 to 18.30 N. Lat. and 76 to 78.40 W. Long.+ four thousand miles S. W. of England, ninety miles W. of St. Domingo, the same distance S. of Cuba, and four hundred and thirty-five miles N. of Carthagena, on the S. American continent ; was discovered by Columbus on the morning of the 3d of May 1494, during his second expedition to the New World. General History. When first visited by the Spaniards Jamaica was found to be densely peopled with Indians, re- sembling in appearance and language the inhabitants of the contiguous mainland ; numerous canoes put off from the shore to meet Columbus, and resistance was offered by a large * The isle was. thus called by the Indians, signifying, in the language of Florida, abundance of wood and water. t According to Oldmixon this name was given by Columbus, on his second visit to the island, in honour of St. Jago, alias St. James, the patron Saint of Spain. X The latitude and longitude of the principal ports are — East Part . . Long. W. 76.63 . . . Lat. N. 17.56 West Part . . 78.22^ . . . 18.16 South Cape of Portland, 17.43i North Part, . . 18.33 Centre of thelsle . 77.8 . . . 18.194 138 COLUiMBUS — FIKST LANDING I\ JAMAICA. party of armed Indians, when the Spanish boats proceeded to obtain soundings in the haven, now called Port Maria. The voyagers then entered another harbour, named Ora Caheca, and on experiencing a similar demonstration of opposition, several arhaletes were discharged at the Indians, who fled on witnessing the slaughter of their companions, and permitted the quiet landing of Columbus. The admiral, (who took formal possession of the island for his sovereign,) remained ten days among the astonished natives, and then (18th 'May 1494), sailed for Cuba. On the ,^2nd of the ensuing month, Columbus again approached Jamaica, off Rio Bueno, and surveyed the coast (without landing), till the 20tli of August, when he reached San Miguel, now Cape Tiburon. For eight years from this period nothing further was heard of Jamaica, and the peaceful Indians were yet a little while left in the tranquil occupation of their lovely and happy home. In 1502, (14th July), Columbus, then on his 4th voyage, sailed from Hispaniola for Jamaica, but contrary and boisterous winds compelled his sheltering at Guanaja, or the isle of Pines. The succeeding year saw the first European settlement on our present colony, the result of necessity, rather than choice. Returning from the disasterous expedi- tion to Veragua, Columbus (with his son and brother and two ships), was driven for shelter to Maxaca, on the S. coast of Cuba, whence after imperfectly repairing his vessels, he again put to sea, but was forced, by stress of weather, and in a sinking state, on an vniinhabited part of the N. coast of Jamaica, where neither water nor provisions were procurable ; once more the intrepid navigator turned his shattered prows to the faithless deep, the tradewind drove him down the coast to the westward, «and at St. Ann's Bay, (called by the devout and weather-beaten mariner Santa Gloria), the sinking vessels were run on shore for the purpose of preserving the lives of the almost exhausted adventurers, who, protected by a reef of rocks, lashed the wrecks together, and canopied beneath a canvas awning, found present shelter and repose. Friendly communications were opened with the unsuspect- SHIPWRECK ON THE ISLAND — MUTINY. 139 ing Indians, wlio supplied the ship-wrecked seamen with abundance of provisions in exchange for beads, bells, or other trifles. Columbus dispatched Diego Mendez, the secretary to the squadron, in company with a Genoese named Fieski, in - two canoes (each furnished with six Castilians and ten Indians) to Ovando, the Governor of Hispaniola, then the capital of the Spanish western isles, distant 200 leagues from Jamaica, and with a strong adverse wind in their course. Ovando, the Governor of Hispaniola, was the inveterate enemy of Colum- bus, and availed himself of the occasion of his rival's misfor- tune, to heap insult and injury on the unfortunate admiral; a vessel was dispatched from Hispaniola, to mock the sufferers with condolence aiul ironical regrets of inability to afford assistance, the commander of the reconnoitering ship (which purposely lay outside the reefs of Santa Gloria) having been expressly selected on account of his being the personal enemy of Columbus. The suffering Spaniards, under the impression that they were neglected by the 'Viceregal and Home Autho- rities, by reason of their fidelity to Columbus, mutinied at the instigation of the brothers Pooras, (one a commander, and the other a military treasurer), Columbus was accused of witchcraft, and several attempts to assassinate him as he lay confined to his bed with the gout were only frustrated by the bravery and presence of mind of his brother Bartholomew ; the mutineers seized on ten canoes which the admiral had been preparing, plundered the natives of provisions wherever they could be found, forced several to accompany them in their efforts to cross the sea to Hispaniola, and threw them overboard with their baggage to lighten the fragile barks in which they several times endeavoured to gain the seat of Su- preme Government, and when compelled to return by the storm to Jamaica, it was but to lay waste and destroy the unoffending Indians, and to make fresh attacks on Colum- bus and his few faithful followers. At length, after losing several of their comrades in a battle with the admiral's friends, headed by Diego Columbus, the renegades sued for permission to return to their allegiance, and in a month 140 DESTRUCTION OF THE INDIANS BY THE SPANIARDS. after (28th June, 1504,) Columbus bade a final adieu to the Jamaica shores in vessels prepared for his relief by Mendez and Fieski, whom he had dispatched from Santa Gloria to Hispaniola and Spain (as before stated) soon after the ship- wreck of his vessels. The peaceful Indians of Jamaica were now left for a brief period in the quiet possession of their lovely isle, but in three years after the death of Christopher Columbus, i. e. in 1509, the Spanish Court divided the Darien Government between Alfonzo d'Ojeda and Diego Nicuesa, authorizing them jointly and severally to make what use they pleased of the unoccupied island of Jamaica as a garden, whence provisions might be obtained, and as a nursery whence slaves might be procured to work in the mines. The result of such orders, in such times, may be easily imagined ; a contest arose between the provincial Governors who should make the most of the unfortunate islanders and their country ; towns and villages were laid waste and burned ; the slightest resistance was returned with indiscriminate slaughter; the caciques, or chiefs, murdered in cold blood ; the women, who tempted the lust of the invaders, became victims to their sensuality ; tortures of the most infernal nature M'ere resorted to for the purposes of forcing a discovery of that which the Spaniards eagerly thirsted for — gold ; and the adults and children of Jamaica who were not fortunate enough to escape to the recesses of the mountains, there to perish, lingering of famine, were borne away into captivity, to wear out a brief existence in the rayless mines where their merciless oppressors sought wealth at an incalculable sacrifice of human life and misery, — justly may we exclaim with the poet — quid noil inortalia pectora cogis, Auri sacra fames 1 While the rival governors, Diego and Nicuesa, were dis- puting about the adjudication of Jamaica, Diego Columbus (the son of the great navigator) stepped in to assert his prior claim, and accordingly despatched, in 1509, Don Juan d'Esquimel, with seventy men, to take possession of the island and form a settlement at Santa Gloria, a spot sacred FIRST SPANISH COLONY IN JAMAICA. 141 to his filial affections, by reason of the shipwreck and suf- ferings of his father. The seat of government Mas fixed on the banks of a small rivulet, termed Sevilla Ntieva, to com- memorate the successful termination of his suit against the crown, as recently decided by the council of the Indies ; and Ferdinand, another son of Columbus, was despatched from Spain to establish a monastery, and assist in the exten- sion of the new colony. The unwarlike Indians of Jamaica did not long offer resistance to the government which they found disposed to settle amongst them, they sank by degrees into the condition of serfs and slaves, and were regarded as mere ministers to the pleasures of their white brethren, who had now usurped the sole occupancy of the soil. San Do- mingo, then in all its glory, graced by the presence of royal blood, and many of the nobility of Castile, and the seat of fashion in the new world, communicated its luxuriance and taste to Sevilla Nueva (now called Sevilla cVOro, from the gold brought thither by the natives,) and a splendid city arose, rivalling in magnificence the towns of the mother country, but of which not a vestige remains, save the memory of the name, — the cane fields, on the site of the former capital, being still termed Seville. The chroniclers of the day represent the government of Don Juan d'Esquimel as mild in character towards the natives, and fostering in regard to the culture of cotton, the introduction of the sugar cane, vine,* and European cattle, which flourished in the virgin soil, and fruitful vallies, and savannahs of the island. The cotton wool was celebrated in commerce for its quality as well as quantity ; and the beautiful fabrics woven therefrom by the Indians became a source of wealth to the Spaniards, which, if they had been attended to, would have proved of more lasting value than the precious metals, in the avaricious search for which every thing living and dead was sacrificed. Unhappily for the Indians, the rule of Don Esquimel was brief; he died, and was buried at Sevilla d'Oro, the beautiful bay on the south of the island * Claret was then made in Jamaica. 142 DEATH OF DIEGO COLUMBUS, AND now called Old Harbour, where he had fixed his estate as an eligible ship-building settlement, inheriting his name, and bequeathing to posterity the remembrance of a man whose character offered a bright contrast to that of his sanguinary successors. Francisco do Garay, a Spaniard, who had long been a fortunate partner of the celebrated Diaz in the famed mine of St. Christopher, in Hispaniola, and whose insatiable avarice and cruelty was notorious, succeeded Esquimel as lieutenant of Diego Columbus, in the government of Jamaica, which, in 1519 (ten years after its settlement), had risen so rapidly as to have been enabled to fit out three vessels, manned by two hundred and seventy men, to endeavour to take possession of a territory named Panuco, on the main land. In 1521, Sevilla d'Oro began to send off branches from the parent stock, and two new towns were founded — the one on the Bay of Blewfields, named Oristan, from a place in Sardinia ; the other, Melilla (supposed to be on the site where Marthae-bras now stands), so called after a small town in Barbary. t The death of Diego Cohimbus (who, in 1523, had founded St. Jago de la Vega, or St. Jago of the Plains, to distinguish it from St. Jago de Cuba), in 1526, checked the improvement of the island ; and the cruelties of the Governor, Don Pedro d'Esquimel, whom LasCasas declares to have been the greatest destroyer of the Indians, added to the destructive piratical warfare carried on by French corsairs, under the name of Fli- bustiers — all tended to cloud the rising prosperity of Jamaica. The intelligent author oiiheAunals of Jamaica, i\\eV^e\.G^N. Bridges, says, that the consequence of such proceedings was, that the settlement of Oristan was destroyed in its infancy, Melilla was abandoned almost as soon as built, and the capital became the repeated prey of a lawless banditti. Its buildings, many of them the creation of monastic munificence, were suspended — its trade interrupted — and, such as were not bound by office to the seat of government, deserted their half-finished walls to seek a safer retreat in the southern districts of the island. The Jamaica Almanac says, that St. PIRACY OF THE FRENCH FLIBUSTIERS. 143 Jago de la Vega, or Spanish Town, was founded by Diego Columbus, in 1523 ; but Mr. Bridges states its origin to have been owing to the affrighted Spaniards, who fled over the mountain range, in 1538, in order to breath in security from the plundering attacks of the French flibustiers, or corsairs ; while superstition suggested the name of the new capital, under the impression that the patron saint of the island had been offended at the name (St. Jago) given by Columbus having been outlived by the native cognomen, Xaymaca, or Jamaica. Security of person and property, the main spring of national wealth and happiness, soon contributed to raise St. Jago de la Vega into a flourishing city : the neighbouring savannahs were quickly cultivated, the manufacture- of sugar* rapidly extended, and, in sixteen years from its foundation (1555), the capital of Jamaica gave the title of Marquis to the grandson of the extraordinary mariner who may be truly said to have discovered a new world for the purpose of sti- mulating into renewed energy the enterprize and intelligence of the old. The wars between Charles V. and Henry of France were carried on in America by the latter under pi- ratical leaders ; and, after a desperate attack of the flibustiers, in 1554, who massacred all the inhabitants, sculptured arches and bare walls alone remain as evidence of the pristine splen- dour of the once celebrated city of Sevilla d'Oro. In 1558, it is stated that the native inhabitants of Jan^aica had entirely perished,f and the Spaniards cultivated the lands in the neighbourhood of St. Jago de la Vega, by means of the few slaves which (says Mr. Bridges) they were enabled to purchase ; whence they were derived the annalist has not recorded. In 1580, owing to the junction of the crowns of Spain and Portugal, the territorial riglit of * In 1523 there were thirty sugar mills estal)lished iu the island. t Gage, writing iu 163/, says, ' This island was once very populous, but is now almost destitute of Indians, for the Spaniards have slain in it more than 60,000; insomuch that women, as well here as on the continent, did kill their children hefore they had given thein birth, that the issues of their bodies might not serve so cruel a nation.' It^ PROGRESSIVE PROSPERITY OF JAMAICA. Jamaica was vested in the royal house of Braganza, and the Portuguese, who emigrated to the island, gave new life and vio-our to the settlement. In 1587 Jamaica was so over run with the bread of horned cattle, swine, and horses, originally imported from Hispaniola, that a considerable trade arose in provisions, lard, and hides ; the cultivation of sugar which had been neglected after the destruction of Sevilla d'Oro, was resumed ; and ginger, tobacco, and other articles were added to the planters' commercial stock. In 1605 the famed wealth of Jamaica induced a predatory incursion on the settlement from Sir Anthony Shirley, who was cruising in the neighbourhood with a large fleet, but the invaders retired after plundering only those parts of the island that were most accessible. In 1644, Col. or Capt. WiUiam Jackson, made a descent upon Jamaica from the windward islands, at the head of five hundred men ; the Spaniards fought bravely at Passage Fort, but were beaten, and compelled to pay a large sum of money for the preservation of the capital. Little, or indeed nothing authentic, is known of the internal history of the island up to the period of the British Conquest in 1655 ; the acquisitions of Spain on the Continent, and the vast quantity of precious metals thence derived, soon induced the neglect of the insular possessions of the Mother Country for the sake of the more shewy, but less substantial advantage, derived by the conquest of Peru and Mexico ; all accounts, however, agree in representing the Hidalgos of Jamaica as leading a life of slothful luxuriance ; for the latter fifty years the N. side of the island had been abandoned and allowed to grow into dense woods, the population at the time of the British Conquest was stated by Venables to be no more than 1,500 Spaniards and Portuguese, with about an equal number of Mulattoes and negro slaves, and the higher class of inha- bitants was composed of only eight families, who may be said to have divided the country between them into eight hatos or districts. Cromwell, no less with a desire to rid himself of those dis- POLICY OF CROMWELL IN COLONlZINa. 145 affected towards his government, than with a hope of humbhng the power of the Spanish court, which favoured the restoration of Charles, — aided by the popular feeling in England against the Spaniards, for the condemnation of six hundred peaceable English settlers at St. Christopher's, to work in subterraneous bondage in the mines of Mexico in 1629, — anxious to avenge the murder of a small English colony, who had quietly settled on the unoccupied island of Tortuga eight years after the peace of 1630, and a repetition of the same bloody tragedy twelve years afterwards at Santa Cruz, in which, as at Tortuga, even the women and children were put to the sword, — and urged, moreover, by a desire to establish the maritime supremacy of England, by the founda- tion of colonies, and by putting an end to the exclusive right of navigating the American seas, as claimed by Ferdinand and Isabella ; — influenced, I say, by these and other motives, Cromwell fitted out a large armament, which he placed under the joint command of General Venables and Admiral Penn, with three controlling commissioners, for the purpose of seizing on Hispaniola at the moment of declaring hostilities against Spain in Europe. The expedition was hastily des- patched, the ranks of the army filled from the gaols and prisons in England and Ireland, and the fleet so hurried out to sea that the store-ships were left behind ; the capture of Hispaniola was prevented by the vigilance of the Spaniards, but to make amends for the discomfiture, Jamaica was at- tacked by a force of 6,500 men, on the 3d of May 1665, after being one hundred and forty-six years in the possession of Spain. Little resistance was offered, negotiations were entered into for the British occupation, and skilfully pro- longed by the Spaniards, until the latter removed all their valuables, so that when St. Jago de la Vega was entered by the British forces, about ten days after the landing, nothing but bare walls were found, the inhabitants having carried off all their goods to the mountains, where, aided by their slaves, and by occasional reinforcements from Cuba, they long held out, but after some years were gradually annihilated, par- VOL II. L 146 BRITISH CONQUEST OF JAMAICA, AND doned, or permitted to emigrate. Spain vainly endeavoured to recover Jamaica, Avhich some skill and energy would have enabled her to do, owing to the disaffection and disor- ganization of tlie British army and occupants ; but the rapid acquirement of wealth, without the aid of industry, and almost solely by means of violence and craft, is as fatal to the strength and happiness of a nation as it is to that of an indi- vidual, and the Spanish government, after several and un- successful efforts, abandoned all further prospects of re- possessing themselves of the island. During the early British occupation much inconvenience and distress (as is the case in all infant settlements), was experienced, some of the Spaniards and their negroes still occupied the mountains,* and martial law was the sole judicature for a series of years, during which period little progress was made in cultivation, the soldiers being disinclined to turn their swords into ploughshares. Under the government of Colonel D'Oyley, Jamaica be- came the head quarters of the pirates, or buccaneers, who infested these seas, and derived inordinate wealth from the plunder of the Spanish colonies and the fleets laden with the precious metals on their return to Europe ; it is stated that * Colonel D'Oyley, the Governor of Jamaica in 1661, wrote to Secre- tary Nicholas, that a party of soldiers had just brousfht in from the moun- tains about 100 negroes, the remainder of some 2,000, who had infested the place since their arrival. He adds, (and it corroborates what I demon- strated in my work on the Tau-ation of the Bnt'ish Empire respecting the Parliamentary Government of the revolution) " thei soldiers have received no pai/ since they came." — State Paper Office. It would appear that blood- hounds were now introduced into Jamaica, and not, as was supposed, for the first time by Loid Balcarras. The two following Jamaica orders respecting bloodhounds and Bibles, afford a curious picture of the manners of the times : — August \A, 1656. " An order signed Edward D'Oyley, for the distri- bution to the army of IJOl Bibles." August 26, 1659. " Order issued this day unto Mr. Peter Pugh, Trea- surer, to pay unto John Hoy the summe of twenty pounds sterling, out of the impost-money, to pay for fifteene doggs, brought by him for the hunting of the ncgrucr^." WISE COMMERCIAL MEASURES FOR ITS PROSPERITY. 1 17 the tables and household utensils of the colonists were of silver and gold, and their horses sometimes shod with the former metal, loosely nailed on, to indicate the abundance and contempt for slight losses of wealth. Negro slaves ap- pear to have been imported by the British in pursuance of the policy of their predecessors, and in 1659 the population of the island was rated at 4,500 whites, and 1 ,400 negroes. Of the white population a chief proportion must have been outlaws and soldiers ; for, according to the Board of Trade and State Paper Office Records, — " Two hundred of the rebels taken at Sedgemoor were transported to Jamaica ;" and the military strength of the island in 1662 consisted of five regiments, containing 2,083 men at arms ; that emigra- tion from England began early is nevertheless correct ; Sir Thomas Modyford, in a letter dated Jamaica, January 30th, 1664, mentions the number of settlers recently arrived, at 987, of which 855 came from England, and the remainder from Barbadoes. At the restoration Charles sought to allay the feuds existing in the island between the republican and royalist parties in Jamaica ; the restraints of martial law were abolished, courts of session formed, and a council of 12 elected by the inhabit- ants to aid the government convened ; a partial survey took place, 12 districts were marked out, laws framed by the council for the government of the island, and taxes levied for the maintenance thereof; every encouragement was held out to new planters, and the wise regulations of Cromwell, ex- empt'ing planters or ' adventurers ' from paying excise or customs on any produce, Sfc. exported to Jamaica, or itnported from thence itito the dominions of the commonwealth, for 10 years, was allowed ; together with the abolition of hindrance or impressment on ships or mariners bound for Jamaica. On the accession of Lord Windsor to the chief authority, in September, 16G2, a municipal government was formed ; judges of session and magistracy appointed ; the militia es- tablished ; the island divided into seven parishes, and patents of land in free soccage granted. It is interesting to examine 148 ORIGIN OF OUR WEST INDIAN COLONIAL LEGISLATURES. the origin of our colonial legislatures. According to a letter in the State Paper Office from Colonel (afterwards Sir Thomas) Modyford, dated Barbadoes, February 16th, 1651, addressed to Bradshaw (the regicide), the following sugges- tions occur, relative to the island sending representatives to Parliament : — ' The great difficulty is, (which your wisdoms will easily overcome) how we shall have a representative with you in your government and our parliament : to demand to have burgesses with yours to sit and vote in matters concern- ing England may seem immoderate ; but to desire that two representatives be chosen by this island to advise and consent to matters that concern this place, I presume may be both just and necessary ; for if laws be imposed upon us without our personall or implied consent, we cannot be accounted better than slaves, which, as all Englishmen abhorre to see, so I am confident you detest to have them : This is so cleare that I shall not need to enforce it with argument, neither enter upon particulars for the good of this place,' &c. &c. It may be gathered from this that the home authorities preferred granting colonial legislatures to colonial represen- tatives in the British Parliament. In January, 1664, the first assembly of Jamaica was con- vened by the Lieutenant-Governor, Sir Charles Littleton, in conformity with the power of his commission from England ; it consisted of 30 members, who chose a speaker (Mr. Robert Freeman) the 20th of January, and continued their sittings to the middle of February, then adjourned to May,and afterwards resumed them at Port Royal ; thus dividing its session be- tween the seats of Government and trade. This early esta- blishment of a popular legislative assembly was attended with signal advantages ; laws suited to the community were framed, taxes raised independent of the Governor and parent state, and the acts of assembly were sent for confirmation to the King. Disputes subsequently broke out between the Go- vernor, Sir Thomas Modyford, and the house of assembly ; but those who appreciate the blessing of legislative repre- sentation in uuison with taxation, will think lightly of dif- NDBI.E CONDUCT OF THE JAMAICA LEGISLATURE. 149 -ferences between the party desiring the exercise of uncon- trollable authority, when balanced by the calm and efficient power of a chamber freely elected by the intelligence and wealth of a community.* For sixty-four years the House of Assembly of Jamaica carried on a noble contest to secure the means of defend- ing itself against tyrannical acts on the part of the Crown, and for controlling the expenditure of their own supplies. Up to 1670, when peace was ratified with Spain, Jamaica was the head quarters and rendezvous of all the pirates, corsairs, and buccaneers of the New World, encouraged by many of the Governors of Jamaica. f The celebrated, the notorious Morgan, | as well as other bandits, contributed to * Of Colonel Samuel Long, who nobly opposed the arbitrary measures «f the Crown, endeavoured to be enforced through the then Governor, the Earl of Carlisle, in 16/9, the following notice occurs in a paper in the Board of Trade : — Nov. 23, 16/6. " His Excellency," Lord Vaughan, " haveing acijuainted the Council of the present vacancy of the Chief Justice's place, and that, in this emergency, he could not propose any other than Lieutenant-Colone* Samuel Long unto them, wherein his Lordship desired their advice, all unanimously declared that they were fully satisfied with the great abilities of Lieutenant-Colonel Long to performe and discharge the said trust and employment, and did approve of his Excellency's choice." This distinguished colonist died possessed of nearly 20,000 acres in Jamaica. His descendant, Mr. Edward Long, was the accomplished and learned author of the history of that island, and to the grandson of that gentleman I am indebted for several valuable memoranda. t Sir Thomas Lynch, in \G64, considered the calling in of the pri- vateers ' a remote and hazardous experiment.' ' If they cannot get Eng- lish commissions,' he says, ' they will get French or Portuguese, although they be dangerous rogues.' Sir Thomas JModyford, in 1665, acknowledges the receipt of a letter from Lord Arlington, directing that ' privateers be handled quietly for the future, and be reclaimed by degrees ; encouraging them to return home and take service in H. M. fleet against the Dutch, ' State Paper Office. \ This extraordinary adventurer was a native of Wales, born in 1636, of a junior branch of the great clan of the Morgans of Tredegar, but by daring courage, talents, and successes, becaoie advanced to the dignity of Lieutenant-Governor of Jamaica Having no inclination to follow his father's agricultural pursuit, Morgan bade him adieu, wandered 150 LIFE AND EXPLOITS OF MORGAN (AFTERWARDS pour a vast flood of wealth into Jamaica, the prize of their infamous marauding expeditions. to Bristol, and embarked for Barbadoes, where, according to the custom of the times, he bound himself as a servant, or sold his services, for the space of four years. As soon, however, as he gained his freedom, Morgan went to Jamaica, where the temptations held out for the rapid acquire- ment of wealth induced him to join the West India buccaneers, who con- sidered their pursuits legitimate because the Spaniards refused to be at peace with other nations within the tropics, where they asserted English- men had no right to settle. War was declared against the Spaniards, by beat of drum, at Port Royal, 27th February, 1666 ; and Morgan, by his daring intrepidity, soon brought himself into notice, made several suc- cessful cruises, and secured a share of the spoil. Seeing the excesses and improvidence of his companions, he profited by the example, and lived so moderately, that he soon amassed a sulBcicnt sum of money towards pur- chasing a vessel, in conjunction with some of his comrades, who elected him their commander, and he returned to Port Royal with several prizes from the Bay of Campeche. Mansfeldt, the prince of pirates, who was then preparing a formidable expedition against the Spaniards, pitched upon him to be his vice-admiral ; and in a short time, with fifteen ships and five hundred men, he stormed and plundered the island of St. Ca- therine (Providence), thirty-five leagues from Chagres river, and, after various successes in different places, next proceeded, in 1668, with a fleet of nine ships and four hundred and sixty men against Puerto Bcllo. This city was defended by three castles, two of which were so situated that no hostile boat could pass, and the town itself was well garrisoned. It was night when he arrived, and, being acquainted with all the avenues of the city, he sailed in canoes up the river to Puerto Pontin, where he anchored, and, guided by one who had been a prisoner there, reached Estcra longa de mar, whence he marched to the outposts of the city. After securing the sentinel, he assailed the castle with such resistless impetuosity, that the Governor was compelled to submit. Being unable to spare men to guard his prisoners, Morgan is accused by the Spaniards of having enclosed them all in a large dungeon, fired the magazine and blown up the fortress with every Spaniard in it. They then forced the com- mandant of the city into the remaining fort, who vainly endeavoured, by an incessant cannonade, to prevent the plundering of the town below ; but it had no other effect than to urge them to make a quick and sanguinary dispatch. The buccaneers rifled the churches and houses, and stormed the castle at the very mouth of its guns. The carnage of this nocturnal conflict was dreadful. After performing prodigies of alour, Morgan's men became dispirited and faint ; but their courage as restored by seeing the English colours waving over the third and only Sir EDWARD) THE JAMAICA BUCCANEER. 151 In 1670, the total white population was 15,198 (vide section on population) ; the militia muster rolls exhibiting an internal remaining castle, which another party of these desperadoes had successfully stormed. Our hero commanded the prisoners, they had taken from the religious houses, at the point of the sword, to place the scaling ladders against the walls. The Spanish soldier's duty prevailed over his superstir tion, and many of the religieuse were slain. The pirates, however, mounted the ladders, and the Spaniards, throwing down their arms, begged for mercy. The commandant alone refused to yield, and nobly met his fate in the presence of his wife and daughter. Every species of excess marked the footsteps of the remorseless conquerors during fifteca successive days. A ransom of 100,000 pieces of eight was demanded for the preservation of the town, and paid. After levelling the redoubts which had been raised by the Spaniards, and dismounting their guns, the buccaneers returned to Jamaica with a ransom and plunder of 250,000 pieces of eight and much merchandize. The chroniclers of the day narrate that, on the sea shore at Port Royal, plate, jewels, and other rich effects were literally piled beneath the eaves of the houses for the want of warehouse room. But this immense wealth was soon transferred to others, and the pirates, reduced almost to starvation, constrained their captain to put to sea again, after a few short weeks of riotous debauchery. Morgan was now at the head of a thousand desperate fellows and a fleet of fifteen vessels, to which was added, it is said, the Oa^ord frigate, commanded h\ Captain E. Collier, sent by Charles II. to aid in the war against the Spaniards. The fleet rendezvoused at the Isle de Vache, in Hispaniola; and Sir William Beeston and Escpiemeling relate the following almost incredible circumstance. A council of war was held on board the Ojcford, on the 2nd January, 1669. The captains remained to dinner, and, while feasting, the frigate, 'by some unknown accident, blew up at once, and killed two hundred and fifty men : Admiral Morgan, and those captains that sat on that side of the table that he did, were saved ; but those cap- tains on the other side were killed.' This misfortune prevented an attack on Carthagena ; but Macaicubo, with Gibraltar (on the Spanish main) was again sacked, and the inhabitants underwent the same cruel torture they ex- perienced at the hands of Solonnois. Failing, however, in this attempt to plunder them, the inhabitants having concealed their valuables in the woods, the pirates wearied and vexed at their unusual ill fortune, retreated from the town. They were waited for by the Spaniards, who were prepared with three men-of-war to obstruct their passage fi'om the lake ; and even in this dilemma, when life and death were in the event, Morgan's courage alone re- mained unshaken. He contrived a fire ship with such ingenuity, that it was impossible for the enemy to recognise her assuch. With this he destroyed one 152 DARING BRAVERY AND CUNNING OF THE PIRATES. Strength of 2,720 men, and the British seamen about the island being 2,500 strong. Fifty-seven sugar works were of their vessels — the second ran on shore, and the remaining- one became an easy prey to the pirates ; hut, although he had destroyed their fleet, the castle, which they must pass, was impregnable. In vain did he resort to his usual practice in exposing the nuns and friars they had taken prisoners upon the deck, to restrain their countrymen from firing. Finding it utterly useless, he had recourse to a wily stratagem. • He withdrew out of the reach of the guns, and, filling his boats with men, they were ordered to row ashore, as if with the design of landing ; but, instead of doing so, they concealed themselves at the bottom of the boats, and the boats returned apparently with only two or three men. After doing this several times, the Spaniards, thinking they were going to attack the castle from the land, removed their guns from the sea side to the ramparts, leaving the former almost defenceless. The pirates then by moonlight dropped down with the tide, when opposite the fort, spread every inch of canvass, and saluted the mortified Spaniards as they passed with a few shots, which the governor, completely outwitted, was unable to return; thus again was Ja- maica deluged with wealth and benefitted by the prodigality of the pirates. Morgan's reputation was now so great that he was joined by several youn;^ men of family from England. After a few months' peace, war was again proclaimed (2nd July, 1670), at Port Royal, against the Spaniards. Morgan received a commission from the Governor to harass the enemy, and sailed with a fleet of thirty-seven sail, carrying two thousand men at arms, besides large crews of good sailors. St. Catherine was recaptured, and kept as a place of retreat. Morgan's vice-admiral (Broadley), with four ships and four hundred men, gained possession, (after losing one hundred men in killed and wounded,) of the town and castle of Chagres. JMorgan next sailed to Panama, which, after a desperate conflict, he succeeded in taking possession of; but it, by some accident, took fire, and continued burning several days. Vast quantities of molten gold and silver were found en- crusted on the very pavements of the town, and the worth of millions was collected from the wells and fountains, where it had been hastily concealed. With one hundred and seventy-five mules, richly laden with gold, silver, and jewels, Morgan arrived at Chagres. There he made a division of the spoil ; but his crew, suspecting him of fraud in the partition, mutinied, and he was glad to escape with two or three ships and 400,000 pieces of eight in specie, with which he arrived in Jamaica. Morgan now gave up his depredations, retired into private life, purchased a plantation, lived upon and improved it, and so effectually recommended himself to public favour, that he was made a naval commander in the service of his King, obtained the honour of knighthood, became President of the Council EARLY STATE OF CULTIVATIOX IN JAMAICA. 15* established, yielding annually 1,710,000 lbs. of sugar; forty- seven cocoa walks, giving 180,000 lbs. of nuts; and forty-nine indigo works, producing 49,000 lbs. of dye. The indigenous pimento afforded an export annually of 50,000 lbs. ; 10,000 bushels of salt were produced from three salt pans ; — in six years, 60 tame cattle had increased to 60,000 ; and sheep, goats, and tame hogs, were innumerable ;* cotton, tobacco, arnotto, and other articles, were being attended to ; and, in the brief space of fourteen years, amidst numberless misfor- tunes abroad and at home, Jamaica exhibited a wonderful progress in colonial prosperity. Sir Thomas Lynch, on his arrival as Governor in 1671, put an end to the privateering system, and directed the atten- tion of the Colonists to the more permanently profitable means of attaining wealth, agriculture and commerce. The assembly (consisting of eighteen representatives) was convened, and the revenue fixed as follows : — land at Port Royal one half- penny per foot ; cleared land and savanna, one penny per acre; license to sell liquor, 40s. per annum ; brandy and spirits im- ported, 6d. per gallon ; Portuguese and Spanish wines, £4> per ton ; beer, 30s. per ton ; and mum, at 40s. ditto ; British ships, Is. per ton anchorage; foreign double; the salary of the Governor or Commander-in-Chief fixed at £1000 per annum ; £400 to the Lieutenant-Governor ; £200 to the of Jamaica, and thrice filled the office of Lieutenant-Governor. According to some chronicles, the pusillanimity of the British Court, and Morgan's Spanish enemies, however, prevailed so far as to procure a letter from the Secretary of State, ordering him a prisoner to England, where his robust constitution, which the numberless trials to which he had been exposed could not impair, sunk beneath unmerited disgrace. Others assert that he died at Port Royal, in comfortable retirement, and much beloved, the 26th August, 1668 ; leaving a name which struck terror into Spain, and which records exploits rarely equalled in the annals of British courage. * The price of provisions had fallen rapidly — for in 1663 Sir Charles Lyttleton, the Lieutenant-Governor, says — " Hogg, which is, planter's food, is sold at 2d. per pound — and I have paid here 7d. : every thing else does abate almost in proportion." 154> FORMATION OF JUDICIAL ESTAHLISIIMENTS, Major-General ; £80 to the Cliief Justice ; £20 to every Judge ; and £10 to his Assistant. According to documents in the State Paper Office the As- semhly, in 1671, consisted of eighteen representatives, and in 1674- Mr. Cranfield, in reply to some queries from his Majesty, stated, that the Council of Jamaica consisted of twelve gentlemen ; the Assemhly of Representatives elected by the freeholders ; two from every parish except from St. Jago and Port Royal, which have the privilege of choosing three. A Chief Court of Judicature sat at St. Jago, sitting every three months with appeals to the Governor as Chan- cellor, with six inferior courts in different parts of the island, sitting evei'y month, and holding pleas not exceeding £20, except by Justices, and these of any sum whatever. Quarter Sessions, according to the custom of England, were held in every precinct, and an Admiralty Court was established ; the domestic armed force of the island consisted of one regiment of cavalry 500 strong, and the infantry regiments containing 5000 men.* The administration of LordVaughan commencing in 1677 was termed indulgent, steady and impartial, but the conduct of his successor, the Earl of Carlisle, has been cen- sured as weak, petulant and tyrannical ; his efforts to induce the Colonial Assembly to surrender its independence, were happily attended with discomfiture, and every lover of liberty will rejoice that the planters of Jamaica were among the fore- most to resist the unconstitutional pretensions of the Crown. In 1684 the first fruits of the impolicy of slave labour was felt by a serious insurrection of the negroes, which however was speedily suppressed ; in 1686 the extensive immigration of Jews gave renewed commercial stimulus to the island, but * III 1680 the military force of the island was 4,526 men in eight regi- ments, the relative strenjjth of which was as follows, — 377 661 592 420 515 496 1,101 364 Sir Henry Morgan, (the Lieutenat-Governor) in a letter dated 1681, says that the North side of the island had then only been settled five years. DESTRUCTION OF PORT ROYAL BY AN EARTHQUAKE. 155 the sectarian Popish zeal of the Duke of Albemai'le, who, to preserve him from starving in England, was appointed by James IT, Governor of Jamaica, temporarily checked the hap- piness and prosperity of the islanders. In 1691, the maroons or run-away negroes became exceed- ingly troublesome to the planters, several of whom, with their families, were murdered, but by the vigilance of the militia the evil was for the time suppressed. In the midst of much prosperity, and when the Colonists were exvUting in their good fortune, the town of Port Royal, into which the wealth of the Buccaneers had been poured, and on whose shores their crimes and wickedness had been felt, by the awful interposi- tion of Providence, was suddenly destroyed, and 3000 of its inhabitants instantly engulphed in the earthquake which en- tombed the scene of so much depravity for ever ! On the 7th June, 1692, at mid-day, while the Governor and Council were sitting, and the wharfs were loaded with merchandize and rich spoil, a roar was heard in the distant mountains, and reverberated through the vallies to the beach where the sea suddenly arose, and in an instant stood five fathoms deep, where a moment befoi"e were displayed the glittering treasures of Peru and Mexico ; in some places the earth opened wide and swallowed whole houses, which were again, perhaps, thrown upwards by the violent concussion of the sea ; in others, many individuals were swallowed up to the neck, and the earth then closing strangled them ; the Sivan frigate was forced over the tops of the sunken houses, and afforded a providential escape to many persons, and of the whole town, perhaps the richest spot in the world, not more than two hundred houses of the fort were left. The whole island felt severely the shock, in some parts mountains were riven, in others connected, the outline of every thing was changed, and the entire surface of the island considerably subsided ; many thousand persons were destroyed in the overwhelming of Port Royal, the ruins of which are yet visible in clear weather from the surface of the ocean, beneath which they lie. A dreadful epidemic, arising from the putrifying bodies floating 156 GALLANT DEFENCE AGAINST THE FRENCH. in shoals about the harbour and from the noxious miasm, suc- ceeded, in which 3,000 persons fell victims. Amidst the loss of much wealth and property, the destruction of the official papers and records of the island was not the least valuable. In June 1 694, while the colonists were yet bending under the effects of the earthquake, a formidable descent was made on the island by M. Du Casse, with three ships of war, twenty-three transports and 1,500 men, from France and Martinique. This formidable invasion was most gallantly met by the Jamaica militia, and utterly routed, with a loss to the invaders of seven hundred men, and on the side of the English of about one hundred killed and wounded. The most wanton cruelties were committed by the French ; fifty sugar estates were totally destroyed, many plantations burned, and 1,500 negroes and several merchant ships carried away by the retreating marauders. The latter years of the seventeenth century were not remarkable for any memorable events in the colonial annals of Jamaica. The Scots colony of Darien was formed about the period of October 1798, and very soon after suppressed, but the colonists of Jamaica generously extended encouragement and support to those whom the miserable policy of the home government would not permit the defence of, against the tyrannical and false usurpation of the territory by Spain. In 1698 the population was, whites, males, 2,465 ; women and children, 4,900 ; total, whites, 7365 ; negroes, 40,000; and in August 1702, the following return was given in : — servants, 1,307; slaves, 41,596 ; cattle, 38,248 ; sheep, 28,598. Port Royal, which had begun to rise again contiguous to the site it had occupied previous to the earth- quake, was now doomed to a second destruction by fire ; the whole town having been annihilated by the blowing up of some gunpowder, loosely lodged beneath roofs of pitch pine ; Kingston rose in prosperity as Port Royal sank under re- peated misfortunes. During the reign of Queen Ann, various unconstitutional efforts were made to induce the Jamaica As- sembly to pass a bill granting a permament revenue to the CONSTITUTIONAL PRINCIPLES IN JAMAICA. 157 crown, but the measure was steadily and triumphantly re- jected. For the first nine yeai's of the eighteenth century, there had been fifteen Sessions and eight Assemblies, convened for the purpose of endeavouring to give the crown a power over the money bills or supplies, raised by the representatives of the people ; but the Jamaica colonists have never allowed an encroachment on their constitutional rights, and neither threats nor persuasions could induce the House of Assembly to part with a power, which once lost, would have left no principles or rights worth preserving. In August, 1122, a tremendous hurricane sunk several ships, and destroyed much property and many lives ; a fatal endemic, as usual, followed, causing thereby great distress, nevertheless one of the first Acts of the House of Assembly on being convened in Jan. 1723, was to double the Duke of Portland's salary, making it £5,000, * in deference to His Majesty's recommendation and to His Grace's character.' This fact demonstrates that the opposition of the House of Assembly to binding and burthening their posterity with op- pressive taxes, was not founded on a parsimonious, but on a constitutional and patriotic principle. The Duke of Port- land's administration is represented to have displayed a just blending of moderation and firmness, of urbanity of manners, and decision of judgment ; unhappily, however, his rule was too brief to be productive of much advantage, save in the excellent example of calm discussion, which he gave to poli- tical parties. His Grace was honoured with the tears of all who knew him. In May, 1727, the long agitated revenue bill passed through the House of Assembly ; and articles of foreign growth or manufacture, with the quit rents, fines, and forfeitures, which had already been relinquished, supplied the required fund of £8,000 per annum, and that which has been termed the Magna Charta of Jamaica passed, namely, that ' all such laws and statutes of England as have been at any time introduced, used, accepted, or received as laws in the island are declared to be laws in Jamaica for ever.' 158 STATE OF THE ISLAND IN 1739. From this period to 1740,* few events occurred worthy of notice in a work, the main object of which is to lay before the British pulilic the present value and importance of the colonial appendages of Britain ; the Maroon war was carried on for some time to the great vexation of the planters, and although the Maroon marauders did not exceed 500 men, they kept large bodies of troops at bay, owing to tbe natural fastnesses of their mountain retreats ; the submission of Cud- joe, the leader, and most of his followers, was eagerly accepted by the government, and portions of land quickly allotted for their use. The war with Spain, the gallantry of Vice Admiral ^'ernon, and the patriotism of Governor Trelawney, gave glory to the British arms in the West, a stimulus to the * The following detail of the produce of Jamaica Estates and its value, in 1739, has been furnished to me from the MS. collections of the late Mr. Long. This MS. is entitled, * Number of sugar plantations in Ja- maica, with the quantity of sugar generally made for some years past ou them. Date, Christmas, 1739.' It mentions every estate separately, together with the name of its owner and its produce. Tlie estate producing the largest return appears to have been Old and New Buxton, in the parish of St. Thomas in the Vale, the property of Charles Price, Esq. The produce was 300 hds. The next single estates, producing about 250 hds., were the properties of the Beckford, Pennant, and Dawkins' families. The two estates of Long- ville and Lucky Valley, in the pai'ish of Clarendon, belonging to the Long family, yielded, the first 130, the second GO hds. In the same parish the estate of Seven plantations, formerly also in that family, produced 200 hds. An estate, called the Crescent, in St. Mary's parish, first settled in 1676, produced 150 hds. It has since, on one or two occasions, yielde 800,000. In 1758 the government was again re- moved after much acrimony between the government and the planters, who opposed the removal of the seat of government to Kingston. The year 1760 witnessed one of those despe- rate insurrections which must ever characterise a population where nine-tenths are bondsmen, and though with the feelings of men, treated as brutes ; the contest ended only with the destruction of the greater part of the rebel slaves ; and it ex- hibited the most disgusting cruelty and barbarism on the part of those whom civilization ought to have taught that humanity never suffers by the exercise of clemency towards a fallen foe. The Rev. Mr. Bridges says, that some of the con- demned rebels were burned, some fixed alive on gibbets, and 7 ditto. Vera, 405 lids. ; 66 ditto. Clarendon, 5480 hds. ; 8 ditto, St. Do- rothy's, 370 hds. ; 28 ditto, St. John's, 2000 hds. Total, 418 siig-ai- works (whereof 10 are new and make no sugar, producing 33,155 hds. 33,155 hds. of sugar, 1600 lbs. each, is 53,048,000, sold at 18*. per cwt., is, . . _ . . ^477,432 Each 60 lbs. sugar to produce 4 gallons molasses, is 3,536,532 gallons, one-third whereof sold, is, 1,178,844 gallons, at Sd. per gallon, - - - ... 39,2.'M The remaining molasses, 2,357,688 gallons, 3 gallons to n^.ake 2 gallons rum, including the skimmings, is 1,571,7-^2 gallons rum, at 18u^. .---.. 117,884 ^^634,610 N. B. The above is exclusive of plantation consumption. Sugar. Consumption of Jamaica, and sent to the northward and other places, about 2000 hds., the rest sent to Britain. — Rum. Consumption -of Britain, 5000 puncheons ; of .lamaica and other parts, 9000; total, 14000. 160 PROGRESS AND PRICE OF THE SLAVE POPULATION. one lived 210 hours suspended under a tropical sun, without 80 much as a drop of water ! It is to be hoped that the day for the repetition of such monstrous and ineffectual attempts to enforce obedience have passed away for ever. Ninety white persons fell in this rebellion ; 400 of the rebel negroes were slain ; many destroyed themselves in the woods sooner than again fall into the hands of their former masters, and their skeletons were found suspended in the lofty branches of the cotton-trees, and about 600 were transported to the Bay of Honduras. Prosperity attended the island during the war ending in 1763, the king's house was completed and furnished at an expense of £30,000., and the banks of the Rio Cobre adorned by elegant villas and well cultivated farms. One of the finest fortresses in Jamaica, perhaps in the West Indies, Fort Augusta, was blown up, 14th September, 1763, by reason of the magazine, containing 3,000 lbs. of gunpowder, being ignited by lightning, by which several hundred persons were killed and wounded, and £43,000. of property destroyed. It is stated that the number of slaves annually imported into Jamaica about this period, amounted to 16,000;* and within thirty years the slave population had increased from 99,000 to upwards of 200,000, while the total numerical strength of the whites did not exceed 16,000. The war waged against England by the N. American co- lonies, in a struggle for independence from a country which could not appreciate their value, and therefore deserved to lose them, called forth the utmost energies of Jamaica to preserve the island from the meditated combined attack of the French and Spanish forces ; and here it may be remarked, that in every contest in which England has been engaged, • According to a manuscript journal of Hampson Needhaoi, in posses- sion of his grandson, JMajor-General Needham, the price of Negroes in 1/50 is thus stated : — " Bought ten Negroes at i.50 each" — and in 1747 the following calculation appears in the Board of Trade Papers : — 500 Negroes, at ^'30 each d. each, 460 Maintenance — fifty-two weeks, at 1*. lOrf. each per week, 2,383 JAMAICA LOYALTY — RECEPTION OF HIS PRESENT MAJESTY. 161 the inhabitants of Jamaica have evinced a loyalty and attach- ment to the mother country, unsurpassed in the annals of colonial history. The combined fleets of France and Spain, amounting to 60 sail of the line, with 6,000 choice troops and a well organized artillery, destined for the conquest of Jamaica, were frustrated in their intentions by the splendid victory of Rodney and Hood,* on the 12th April, 1782, off Dominica, over the French squadron of o6 sail of the line and 10 frigates, commanded by Count De Grasse, by which personal security was afforded to the islanders, whose condi- tion was much reduced by several years of continued hurri- canes, and by the extraordinary efforts which they made for the preservation of Jamaica to the British crown. His present Majesty, then a midshipman in the British navy, visited Ja- maica at this period, and generously bore testimony to the enthusiasm displayed by the colonists in their heroic endea^ vours to defend this valuable island from becoming the pro- perty of the enemies of England ; and on His Royal Highness' return to Jamaica in 1788, the colonists solicited the Prince's acceptance of a star of the value of one thousand guineas, while to General Campbell was presented a splendid service of plate, in testimony of his exertions as governor during the anticipated invasion from the combined fleets. And here let me regret the insane policy of England in imposing heavy duties on the produce of Jamaica and of our other E. and W. India colonies, when imported into England ; nothing could (as was then justly complained of) more effectually tend to de- stroy the planters, not even the almost annual visitation of the hurricanes with which they were afflicted; the full benefit of colonies can only be experienced when their trade approxi- mates as closely as possible to a coasting commerce, freed from fiscal exactions and legislative decrees. The Maroon war, so imprudently and unjustly brought on by the intemperate policy of the Earl of Balcarras, then (1795) * The Jamaicians, with their usual liberality, caused a marble statue to be erected in memory of Rodney, which was executed by Bacon, and cost 3,000 guineas. VOL. II. M 1G5 CHRONOLOGICAL DATA OF THE GOVERNORS. Governor of Jamaica, cost the lives of many brave men, and ended in the removal of the surviving Maroons to Nova Scotia, and finally to Sierra Leone. The disastrous revolu- tion in St. Domingo caused additional expense to the island, and the West India or coloured regiments, were then first raised, much to the dissatisfaction of the colonists, who were also at this time burthened with the absurd support of the 20th regiment of Dragoons ; a pretty species of force for a West India svigar plantation.* In 1802, Kingston was con- stituted a corporation, and a mayor, aldermen, &c. appointed. But I have already encroached on the limits allotted to this portion of my work, and it would detract from the object I have in view, namely, to develope the actual condition and commercial and political advantages of the British colonies, were I to continue a minutiae of facts or chronological account of domestic occurrences;f sufficient has beenwritten to demon- strate the manner in which the island of Jamaica became colonized and attached to Great Britain,;}; and we may now proceed to contemplate its — * After putting the country to an enormous expense for the support of this regiment, the wiseacres of the day discovered, after a lapse of several years, that the mountains of Jamaica were not favourable to the move- ments of a regiment of cavalry, and it was accordingly withdrawn. t The terrific slave insurrection of 1831-2 need not here be mentioned. I trust it is the last civil or predial war which the island may be doomed to witness. X The following are the names of the Governors, Lieutenant-Gover- nors, &c. of Jamaica, with the years when they commenced their admi- nistrations : — Goi-^r/jor, Colonel D'Oyley . 1660 | Gov. Chas. Earl of Carlisle, 16/8 Lord Windsor . . 1662 [ L/.-Goi*. SirH. Morgan, Knt. 1680 Lieutenant-Governor, Sir C. Lyttleton, Knt 1662 President, Col. Thos. Lynch, 1664 Gov. Sir T. Modyford, Knt. 1664 Lt.-Gov. Sir T. Lynch. Knt. 1671 Sir H. Morgan, Knt. 16/5 Governor, Lord Vaughan, . 16/5 Lt.-Gov. Sir H. Morgan, Knt. 16/8 Gow. Sir Thos. Lynch, Knt. . 1682 Lieut.- Governor, Col. Hender Molesworth, . . . • 1684 Governor, Christopher, Duke of Albemarle .... 168/ President, Sir Fras. Watson . 1688 Gov. Wm. Earl of Inchiquin, 1690 President, John White, Esq. 1692 PHYS5TCAL ASPECT OF JAMAICA. 163 Physical Aspect. This beautiful isle, happily screened by Cuba and Hispaniola from the tempestuous winds of the Atlantic, and peculiarly adapted for an extensive and profitable commerce with the adjacent continent, by reason of the number and disposition of its excellent havens, is really one of our most valuable colonies. Jamaica is somewhat of an oval shape, with an elevated ridge called the ' Blue Moun- tains,' (towering in some places to nearly 8,000 feet above the level of the sea), running longitudinally through the isle E. and W. and occasionally intersected by other high ridges, traversing from N. to S. ; approaching the sea on the S. coast in gigantic spines, of sharp ascent — difficult of access, and clothed with dense and sombre forests ;■ — on the N. de- clining into lovely mounds and round topped hills, covered with groves of pimento, and all the exquisite verdure of the President, J no.Bouvdcn, Esq. Lt.-Gov. Sir W. Beeston, Knt. Governor, Wrn Sehvyn, Esq. Lieut.-Gov. P.Beckford, Esq. T. Handasyd, Esq. Gov. Lord Arch. Hamilton, Peter Heywood, Esq. . Sir Nich. Lawes, Knt. Hen. Duke of Portland, Pres. John Ayscough. Esq. C^of.Maj.-Gen. Rob. Hunter, Pres. John Ayscough, Esq. John Gregory, Esq. , Henry Cunningham, Esq. was appointed Governor in 1735, but President Gregory was succeeded by Gov. Edward Trelawny, Esq. ■ Charles Knowles, Esq. Lt.-Gov. Henry Moore, Esq. Gov. George Haldane, Esq. Lt.-Gov. Henry Moore, Esq. Gov. W. H. Lyttelton, Esq. Lt.-Gov. R. H. Elletson, Esq. Gov. Sir Wm. Trelawny, Bt. 1G92 1(!93 1702 1702 1702 1711 I7I6 I7I8 1722 1722 1728 1734 1735 1738 1752 1756 1758 1759 1762 1766 1767 Lt.-Gov. Lt.-Col. J. Balling, 1/73 Gov. Sir Basil Keith, Knt. 1773 Major-Gen. J. Bailing, 1777 Major-General Arch. Campbell, . . . . 1782 Lt.-Gov. Brig. Gen. Alured Clarke, 1784 Gov. T. Earl of Effingham, 1 790 Lt.-Gov.Mdi].-G. Williamson, 1791 Earl of Balcarras, 1795 Lt.-Gen. G. Nugent, 1801 Lt.-Gen. SirE. Cootc, 1806 Gov. Buke of Manchester, 1808 i.^.-Co!-. Lt.-Gen.E.Morrison, 1811 Gov. Buke of Rlanchester, 1813 Lt.-Gov. M.-Gsn. H. Conran, 1821 Gov. Buke of Manchester, 1822 Lt.-Gov. Major-General Sir John Keane, .... 1827 G^or. Earl of Belmore, . . 1829 Pres. G. Cuthbert, Esq. . 1832 Gov. C. H. Earl of Mulgrave, 1832 Lt.-Gov. Coy. Marquis of Sligo, . 1834 164 SPLENDID VIEW FROM POINT MORANT. tropics, — the coup dceil presenting a splendid panorama of high mountains, embosomed in clouds, and vast savannahs or plains, hills and vales, rivers, bays, and creeks. The middle part, called Pedro's Cockpit, lying between Clarendon and St. Ann's Parishes, is spread for an extent of many miles, with an infinite number of round-topped hills, whose surface, covered with a loose lime-stone, or honey-combed rock, is clothed with fine cedar and other trees, of enormous bulk ; the dales or cockpits meandering between these hummocks contain a rich soil, of great depth, where the succulent Guinea grass forms a perfect carpet of ever- verdant beauty.* When viewed at a distance from Point Morant (the south- ernmost high land on the coast), the picture is splendid ; the blue mountains appear above the stratvim of clouds, which roll along their precipitous sides, — beneath the rugged hills are furrowed with ravines, and steeps cliffs descend abruptly to the sea ; on a nearer approach lofty forests are discovered on the sides of the hills, and patches of bright emerald green become visible on running along the S. coast towards Port Royal. From Fort Morant (conspicuous under a steep hill), to Port Royal, there is a narrow spit of land, called the palisades, composed of sand, overgrown with mangroves,-|- behind this is the harbour of the chief commercial town.:|: (Kingston) situated on a gentle slope of about one mile in length, which is bounded on the S. by a spacious bason, through which all vessels must advance beneath the com- manding batteries of Port Royal. The extended inclined plane, on the verge of which Kingston stands, is inclosed on the N. by the loftiest ridge of the Blue Mountain chain, • Butter made from the cattle fed here, is by some persons thought equal, if not superior to any in England. t Quicksands are commonly met with in Jamaica (and indeed in most tropical isles) on crossing the mouths of rivers or gullies on the coast, at the junction of the sea and freshes. X St. Jago de la Vega, or Spanish Town, Co. Middlesex, on tlie S. W. Bide uf tlie island, about sixteen miles from the sea and sixteen from Kingston, is the seat of Government, but Kingston is in reality the capital of the island. APPEARANCE OF KINGSTON AND PORT ROYAL. 165 termed Liguana, which, forming a semi-circle, terminates in the E. at the narrow defile of Rock Fort, — from thence a long neck of land stretches far away to Port Royal, forming the S. barrier of a beautiful haven ; in the W. the semicircle terminates at a contracted pass upon the edge of an imprac- ticable lagoon, from thence the main land sweeping round to Port Henderson, and the projecting salt pond hills secure an harbour, in which the navies of Europe might safely ride.* The entrance is defended on the E. point of the delta of Port Royal by the formidable ramparts of Fort Charles, thickly studded with heavy ordnance ; on the W. side, by the cannon of Rock Fort, while the low raking shot from the long level lines of Fort Augusta, which face the narrow channel, would sweep a hostile navy off the ocean. For nine miles around Kingston is an alluvial plain, surrounded by a series of irregular mountains, some of which to the E. and N. E. are of considerable elevation, — constantly cloud-capped, and appearing as if made up of several hills piled upon one ano- ther, with various elevations, picturesque vallies and chasms, impressing the mind with an idea of volcanic origin, or that some convulsion of nature, had caused the strange irregularity displayed. The streets in Lower Kingston are long and straight, with a mathematical regularity like the new town of Edinburgh, the houses in general two stories, with verandahs above and below. The English and Scotch churches are really elegant structures, particularly the former, which is built on a pic- turesque spot, commanding a splendid view of the city, the plains around it, the amphitheatre of mountains, and the noble harbour of Port Royal. On a plain at the top of the declivity on which Kingston is built are the fine barracks, called Up Park Camp, and not far * The anchorage is good all over Port Royal Harbour — but for ships bound to sea the best is in nine fathoms, with a remarkable notch on the East side of a high mountain, called the leading notch, a little open to the Eastward of Fort Augusta, bearing nearly North, and having Rackum Key on with Port Royal Point. . . ^ 166 MOUNTAINS OF JAMAICA — THEIR HEIGHT, &C. hence on a still more conspicuous spot, is the residence for the naval commander-in-chief on the station, called the Admiral's Pen. Mountains. The heights of the principal places above the level of the sea, are thus computed — Blue Mountain Peak, 7,770 ft. Flamstead House, 3,800 ft. Ridge of ditto, - - 7,163 Sheldon House, 3,417 Portland Gap ridge, 6,501 Middleton ditto, 2,340 Portland Gap, - - 5,640 Stoney Hill, Bks. 1,360 Catherine's Peak, - 4,970 Green Castle, - 1,328 AbbeyGreen House, S.D.4, 233 Hope Tavern, - 699 Chfton House, s. a. 4,228 It is asserted, however, that the three very remarkable peaks on the grand ridge of Blue Mountains at the eastern part of the island called the Coldrklge, have their respective summits 8,184, 7,656, and 7,576 feet above the level of the sea, and there are other mountains in this ridge exceeding a mile in height. Catherine's peak, about seven miles and a half N. of Kingston, is stated to be 5,075 feet, and Hardwar Hill to the westward of it nearly of equal elevation, forming the summits of another grand ridge which crosses the island diagonally. The mountains to the W. in the counties of Middlesex and Cornwall do not reach the height of a mile, rarely exceed half a mile : Lenians mountain* in the county of Middlesex, six miles N. of Spanish Town is 2,282 feet high, and the Bull's Head, in Clarendon, near the centre of the island on the meridian of Carlisle Bay, is 3,140 feet. In the W., the Dolphins Head S. of Lucea is 3,450 feet. On the S. E. coast Yallah's Hill which is within the point of the same name is only 2,706 feet. The greater proportion of the mountains are of conical form, with steep declivities, ap- proaching very near the shore on the N. coast, and leaving plains of about twelve miles wide on the S. ; the dark and deep ravines between the lofty mountains, denominated • Near this mouniain is Highgatc, a delightful residence, where Lord Belmore resided with his family in the hot months, and lately occupied by Lord and Lady Mulgrave. RIVERS, HARBOURS, HOT SPRINGS, &C. 167 Cockpits, are closely shut in by dense woods, and offer a marked contrast to the lower mountains, which are cultivated with coffee, pimento, cotton, capsicums, &c., in all their variety, affording delightful country retreats from the coast. Rivers and Harbours. The beauty of the island is further enhanced by its numerous rivers, upwards of two hundred of which have been enumerated ; few, however, (owing to the mountainous and hill and dale nature of the country), are navigable for vessels of any burthen, though they might be made so by means of locks, &c. In St. Elizabeth parish, Black River, which flows for the most part through a flat country, is the deepest and least rapid, and is navigable for flat- bottomed boats and canoes for about thirty miles. The other chief rivers on the S. side are the Rio Cobre and Rio Minho, and on the N., Marthabrae, White, Ginger and Great River, &c. The precipitate current of the streams renders them the better adapted for mechanical purposes, their quick agitation over the falls preserves their zest and sprightliness for animal drink, and prevents the too great evaporation and formation of damps and mists, which would otherwise be occasioned. Springs are extremely numerous, even in the highest moun- tains ; about Kingston, and on the N. side, they are generally impregnated with calcareous earth, and in the latter stalactites are met with. Several are of a medicinal nature in Vere and Portland ; the most celebrated is one of a sulphureous nature in the E. parish of St. Thomas, giving name to a village called Bath ; there is a cold and a hot spi-ing ; the latter runs by many rills out of the side of a rocky cleft that confines the middle part of the sulphur river to the E., as it runs towards, the South ; it is very hot at its source, naturally light, and plentifully charged with volatile particles of mineral acid, combined with sulphureous steam, slightly engaged in a cal- careous base ; the cold spring differs only in being more abundantly charged with sulphur ; the use of both is exceed- ingly beneficial in cutaneous disorders, obstructions of the visc2ra, &c. Of the harbours it may be sufficient to state, that the Ja^ 1C8 DIVISION or THE ISLAND INTO PARISHES, &C. maica shore has sixteen principal secure havens, besides thirty bays, roads or shipping stations, which afford good anchorage. Division. — The island is divided into three counties — Middlesex, Surrey and Cornwall,* -each of which is subdivided into parishes, nine, seven and five. Middlesex contains St. Jago de la Vega, or Spanish town, situate in a noble plain, and adorned with many fine buildings in the Castilian style ; Surrey contains Kingston and Port Royal, and likewise the villages of Port Morant and Morant Bay, the latter of con- siderable importance on account of its shipping ; Portland parish, in this county, contains Port Antonio, one of the most commodious and secure in the island ; St. George parish contains Annotto Bay ; Cornwall county has Montego Bay on the north-west coast, on which coast Falmouth, twenty miles east of Montego Bay, is also situate. The other places worth notice are Carlisle and Bluefield Bays on the south, and Marthae-brge and Lucea harbours on the north coast. The chief headlands of the island are Port Morant, at the east end of Jamaica, and two promontories on the west end, the coast along which is bold and high.f It may be necessary to say a few words respecting the position of the military stations, &c. in Jamaica, especially on the south side of the island, where four out of five regi- ments are stationed. To begin with Fort Augusta. This strong fortress is built upon a low Counties. Area in Acres. *Conwall 1,305,235 Middlesex 072,616 Surry 1,522,149 Towns. Parishes. Villages. 3 5 6 1 9 13 2 7 . 8 Total.. 3,500,000 6 21 27 f The roads through the island are in general narrow but good. By the old laws the width of the roads was ordered as follows ; — Width in standing wood 60 feet Do. wood on one side 40 do. Do. open ground 24 do. The making ofsome roads in the island have cost iC/OO per mile. UP PARK CAMP, JAMAICA. 169 neck of land, or peninsula, joined to the hills at Port Hen- derson by a narrow isthmus of sand, having a coral formation for its base. The buildings of the fort occupy the whole area of the point of the peninsula, which is surrounded by the sea, except to the west, — the sovith face of the fort being washed by the deep water of the ship channel, while the east and north fronts are environed by the shallow waters of a lagoon. The fort is considered healthy, owing to the prevalence of the wind from the S. and S. E. The barracks are two stories high, well ventilated,* and contain generally four service companies. Up-Park Camp contains the only government barracks in Jamaica, and they are indeed highly creditable to the island. They are situate about two miles north of Kingston, at the extremity of the plain of Liguana, which gradually rises above the level of the sea; is well cultivated, — extremely fertile, — about one mile and a half south of the Long Moun- tain, with an elevation of eight hundred feet, covered with brush wood, and exceedingly steep towards Kingston. The height of the camp above the sea shore is about two hundred feet, and it covers an irregular square of between two and three hundred acres, sloping towards Kingston. The barracks consist of two long parallel lines of buildings, extending from east to west (that to the south, or seaward, comprising the officers' quarters), two stories high, a six- feet basement, an excellent hospital, a splendid bath of forty feet clear and four deep, containing 70,000 gallons of running water •,-f the whole cantonment, at sixty feet distance, surrounded by a wall of six feet high, surmounted by an iron palisading. Twelve hundred and eighty-four European sol- * The eftbrts of the surgeon of the 84th regiment, in 1828, caused the House of Assembly to make considerable improvement in the barracks and hospital at this station. f This fine bath is supplied with water from Papine estate, four miles and a half distant ; the pipe conveying it is six inches in diameter, with a velocity of twelve inches, and discharging 4,600 gallons per hour. This plentiful supply of so indispensable an element, enables the soldiers to irri- gate their beautiful gardens, which are laid out in the camp, and which furnish the garrison with a constant supply of vegetables. 170 STONY HILL — PORT ANTONIO, FALMOUTH, &C. tliers are encamped with comfort, and the attached offices are spacious, lofty, and commodious.* Stoney Hill garrison, capable of holding five hundred men — is situate 2,000 feet above the level of the sea, on the ridges of a chain of mountains, (in a depression between a more elevated chain), running in a curved direction from east to west, and enjoying a most beautiful and picturesque view of the inclined alluvial plain of Liguana, of tlie city of King- ston, of Port Royal, of Fort Augusta, and of the adjacent country. The barracks, hospitals, &c. are, generally speak- ing, situate on small detached eminences, and are nine miles north of Kingston, seven of which cross the plain of Liguana ; the remainder of the road is a rather an abrupt ascent to the garrison, but practicable for wheeled carriages of every description. This post commands the grand pass, which intersects the island from north to south, and is therefore justly considered of great importance. The government ground at the station amounts to eighty-three acres. Port Antonio, situate at the extremity of the island, eighty miles from Kingston, is nearly insulated ; — its fort exhibiting a half-moon battery, with a magazine in the rear, one hundred and forty-four feet long by twenty-one wide. The barracks are placed upon a kind of peninsula, forming on either side a bay, and capable of containing upwards of fifty men. The buildings are new and elevated, commodious, and commanding a fine view of the sea. Falmouth, or Marth^-br^, fifteen miles east of Montego Bay, has a small fort at Point Palmetto, with a good set of artillery barracks, and an hospital, stores and quarters, open to the sea breeze. It is a bar harbour ; channel very narrow, intricate, not more than sixteen or seventeen feet deep, but within a regular depth of from five to ten fathoms. The town of Falmouth is built on the west side of the harbour. Maroon Town is situate in the interior, between the parishes of Westmoreland and St. James, on a very high • Dr. Adolphus, late Inspector of Hospitals at Jamaica, has been one of the main causes of the great improvements recently effected at Up Park Camp. MAROON TOWN — MONTEGO BAY — SAVANNAH LE MAR. 171 mountain, affording a most desirable station, in a military as well as in a sanatory point of view {vide Climate). The barracks, delightfully placed in the midst of verdant mountains and springs of the most delicious water, are capable of accom- modating upwards of two hundred men, with an excellent hospital for twenty patients. MoNTEGO Bay is situate at the foot of a range of mountains which nearly surround the town, except on the sea side. The barracks for one hundred men, and an hospital for forty patients, are complete and comfortable. The N. point is in Lat. 18.30^ N. It is a good bay, sheltered from all winds, from the N.N.E. round to E. and W. and open to those from N. and W. It is distant fifteen miles from — LucEA, or Fort Charlotte, which is built on the north- east extremity of a peninsula, bounded on one side by the beautiful bay and secure harbour of Lucea, and on the other by the sea. The mountains of Hanover and Westmoreland rise abruptly and majestically high immediately behind the town of Lucea, about one mile from the garrison. The highest peak, termed the Dolphins Head, serves as a good land-mark to the mariner. Savannah Le Mar. This is a fine station, in the midst of a highly cultivated country. From the sea shore the ground springs a little towards the north, pretty level, and intersected by several fine rivers; towards the east, at the distance of twelve miles, the mountains begin to rise near the coast, running nearly northerly upwards of sixteen miles, when they turn to the west, and incline, after running several miles further, towards the south, where they terminate not far from the ocean, and embrace within their border a beautiful and highly cultivated amphitheatre. The town of Savannah le Mar is situated on the beach, from which a low alluvial flat extends for several miles ; in this plain, about one mile from the town, are an excellent range of barracks. The station is now healthy,* and the harbour good ; but requiring a pilot, on account of its intricate entrance. * It is a reinarknble circumstance tliat the most healthy stations in tro- pical ciimes have become, at times, quite the reverse. 172 PORT ROYAL, SPANISH TOWN, &C. Apostles Battery is a small fort, erected on a high rock, on the shore opposite to Port Royal. Port Royal, situate nearly at the extremity of a tongue of land, which forms the boundary of the harbours of Kingston and of Port Royal. Towards the sea, the tongue is composed of coral rocks, covered with sand, which the tide frequently inundates, as a great part of the town of Port Royal is only a few feet above the sea level. The royal naval yard lies to the N. the naval hospital to the S. W., and the works of Fort Charles, and the soldiers' barracks, to the southward. The fortifications are extremely strong, and the situation (though low) healthy from its openness to the sea breeze. The harbour is capable of containing 1,000 large ships with convenience.* Spanish Town. The capital of Jamaicaf is situate at the * The European reader will remember that it was on this spot the former Port Royal stood ere it was overwhelmed by the earthquake of 1692, and with 2000 houses buried eight fathoms under water. f The following are the Post Roads Windward of the Island : — Miles. Distance from Kingston to St. David . . . .19 St. David to Blue Mountain . 8 Blue Mountain to Morant Bay, 8 Morant Bay to Port Morant . 7 Port Morant to Bath . . 6 Bath to Amity Hall . . ^ Amity Hall to Manchioneal . 9 Total 64 North Side to Port Antonio. From Kingston to Annotto Bay, 30 Anuotto Bay to Buff Bay . 10 BufFBay to Hope Bay . .10 Hope Bay to Port Antonio . 10 Total 60 MUes. North Side to Port Maria. From Kingstown to Highgate, 32 Highgate to Port Maria . . 10 Total 42 North Side to Green Island. From Kingstown to Spanish Town . . . .13 Spanish To\vn to Rodney Hall, 14 Rodney Hall to the Moneague, 15 The Moneague to St. Anne's . 15 St. Anne's to Dry Harbour . 14 Dry Harbour to Rio Beuno . 5 Rio Beuno to Falmouth . .17 Falmouth to Little River . 12 Little River to Montego Bay . 11 Montego Bay to Flint River . 12 Flint River to Lucea . .11 Lucia to Green Island .12 Total . . .151 GEOLOGY OF JAMAICA. 173 extremity of an extensive plain, extending far to the S., S,E. and W., but with the mountains closely approaching the tOM'n on the N. and N. W., and distant from the sea at Port Royal Harbour six miles. The Cobre, a river of considerable depth, passes the city at the distance of about a quarter of a mile on the N. E. The barracks are good, well situate, and capable of holding three hundred and seventeen men ; the hospital, however, will not accommodate more than thirty-six patients. The buildings of the capital, as before observed, are in the magnificent style of Spanish architecture, and the city has an imposing appearance.* Geology. The soil is generally deep and fertile, on the N. of a chocolate colour, in other parts a bright yellow, and every where remarkable for a shining surface when first turned up, and for staining the skin like paint when wetted ; it appears to be a chalky marl, containing a large proportion of calcareous matter ; there is a soil in the island termed "Brick Mould," which is deep and mellow, on a retentive under strata ; this, next to the ash mould of St. Christophers, is considered the best soil in the W. Indies for the sugar cane. A red earth abounds most in the hilly lands, and a purple loam sometimes mixed with a sandy soil in the savannahs and low-lands, but the highest mountains are remarkable for having on their summits a deep black rich soil. The principal soils on the interior hills and mountains of Jamaica may be enumerated thus : a red clay on a white marl ; a ditto on a grit ; a reddish brown ditto, on marl ; a yellowish clay, MUes. 1 Miles. South Side to Savannah le Mar. From Kingstown to Spanish Town 13 Spanish Town to Old Harbour, 12 Old Harbour to Clarendon . 12 Clarendon to Green Pond . 16 Green Pond to May Hill . . 5 May Hill to the Gutters . 6 The Gutters to Goshen . . 6 * Population about 5,000 Goshen to Laconia . . .12 Laconia to Black River . .12 Black River to Robin's River, 16 Robin's River to Savanna la Mar ... .16 Total . . 124 174 VARIOUS SOILS AND MOULDS OF JAMAICA. mixed with common mould ; a red grit ; a loose concliaceous mould ; a black mould on a clay or other substrate ; a loose black vegetable mould, on rock ; a fine sand ; and the varieties of all the foregoing. The mountain-land in general when first cleared of its wood, possesses more or less a deep surface of rich black mould, mixed with shells ; a soil which will grow anything. The brick mould soil of Jamaica (which is a compound of very fine particles of clay, sand, and black mould), is of amazing depth, and is considered by far the best for cultiva- tion ; it is always easily laboured, so inexhaustible as to require no manure, in very dry seasons it retains a moisture suflicient to preserve the cane root from perishing, and in very wet it suffers the superfluous Avaters to penetrate, so that the roots are never in danger of being rotted ; next in fecundity is the black shell mould, previously mentioned, which owes its fertility to the mineral salts and exuviae inter- mingled with it. The soil about Kingston on the alluvial plain, consists of a layer of deep mould, chiefly composed of decayed vegetable matter, with a proportion of marl and some carbonate of lime, entirely free from gravel, and highly absorbent of water : the substratum varies, being sometimes of a compact aluminous earth alone, in other places mixed with gravel; in sinking a shaft, layers of aluminous earth and gravel are found, running horizontally, approaching to pure clay at the bottom, and at four feet from the surface a strata of finely divided silicia. About Stoney Hill garrison, the surface is similar to what is frequently met with in elevated situations in Jamaica, namely, a superstratum of rich dark mould, varying in depth from two to twenty inches, with a substratum of argillaceous and red earth, evidently con- taining a mixture of carbonate of iron ; and in many parts the surface of the ground studded with lime stones of a very large size. Silver and golden mica is frequent, especially among the hills between St. Catherine's and Sixteen Mile- Walk, and when washed down with the floods mistaken for gold sand : — near Spanish Town it is found incorporated with MINERALOGY AND CLIMATE. 175 Potters' clay. Mixed and purplish schistus are common in the mountains of St. John's, and about Bull Bay, and the hard lamellated Amianthus is found in large detached masses, having all the appearance of petrified wood. The lower mountains E. of Kingston are principally composed of a whitish bastard marble, with a smooth even grain, taking a good polish, and frequently used in Jamaica for lime stone.* White free stone, quartz of different species, and lime stone are abundant, — subcrystalline spar is found in small de- tached masses, and rock spar, very clear, may be seen formed into rocks of prodigious size in the mountains of St. Ann's, where it is observed to constitute whole strata. When ex- posed any time to the weather the surface grows opaque, and of a milky white. Friable white marl and clammy marl, or ahoo earth, (of an apparently smooth, greasy, and cohesive nature), are found, and the latter sometimes eaten by the negroes when they are diseased, to the great detriment of health. Mineralogy. The lead ore of Jamaica is extremely rich and heavily impregnated with silver ; several varieties have been found, and indeed, worked at Liguana, where also striated antimony is obtainable ; in the lower mountains of Liguana every variety of copper ore is in profusion, in par- ticular the green and livid, and the shining dark copper ores ; in the more mellow matrices, yellow mundick (marchasites), is largely mixed. In the mountains above Bull Bay, a dark iron sand, attracted by the magnet, is found : neither gold nor silver ore has yet been discovered, though it is certain the natives possessed those metals in abundance when first visited by Columbus and the early Spanish settlers. Climate. The heat of Jamaica is by no means so fearful as has been represented ; even on the coast it is temperate, the medium at Kingston throughout the year being 80 F. and the minimum 70. As the country is ascended the tempera- ture of course decreases ; eight miles from Kingston the maximum is 70, and at the distance of fourteen miles, where * Long Mountain, near Kingston, is entirely composed of carbonate of lime. Vet limestone was sent to Jamaica from England 1 176 DELIGHTFUL WEATHER IN JAMAICA. the elevation is 4200 feet, the average range is from 55 to 65 F. the minimum in winter 44, and a fire in the evenings not only agreeable but necessary. On the summits of the mountains the range in summer is from 47 at sunrise to 58 at noon, the minimum in winter 42. The heat of a tro- pical climate is materially mitigated by unremitted breezes from sea'or land, and by vast masses of clouds Avhich, inter- posing between the sun's rays and the earth, prevent any great inconvenience therefrom ; the air is remarkably light and enlivening, producing great cheerfulness even in old age, and so equal in its pressure that it rarely varies more than an inch at anytime of the year. Although the temperature alter- nates eight or ten degrees on the south side of the mountains, and more so on the north, it is not subject to the sudden and de- trimental transitions experienced in South Carolina, and other parts of the United States. From July to October is the hur- ricane season, but severe stoi'ms at the Windward Caribbee isles are not felt at Jamaica. For two or three months pre- ceding the May rains,* lightning and thunder are prevalent, but not very mischievous ; and from November to March, when the sea-breeze is irregular northerly winds blow, be- coming colder as they recede towards the west ; during this season the air is delicious, resembling the finest English vernal weather.-j- The seasons are divided into four, — viz. vernal or moderate rains, in April and May, lasting six weeks; the second, hot and dry, including June, July, and August; the third, hurricane and rainy months, embracing September, October, and November ; and the fourth, serene and cool, comprising December, January, February and March. There is however considerable difference of climate on either side of the island ; on the south it may be said that sjyring ranges through the months from November to April ; summer from May to August , and winter from September to • The quantity of rain falling in the year is nearly fifty inches. f Tliese statements demonstrate how well adapted the hig'h lands of Jamaica are for the settlement of European cultivators of tropical produc- tions. TMETEOROLOGICAL REGISTER AT UP-PARK CAMP. 177 October ; while on the north side winter ranges from October to March; the north has a larger supply of rain than the south, but distributed in smaller and more frequent showers, and it is cooler, and with a vegetation of greater bulk and height. The following Meteorological Register for Up-Park Camp, is from Sir J. Mc Gregor's office. i i January f . 84 76 February . March . . 84 86 78 82 April . . May . . June . . 37 87 86 83 81 82 July . . 89 83 August September October 87 89 86 82 82 80 November 85 79 December 84 7& Wind.* 71 N&SE 72 Ditto 77 Ditto 79 Ditto 75 Ditto 78 Ditto 77 Ditto 77 S.S.W. 76 Ditto 74 Ditto 73 Ditto 73 Ditto Fine, some showers, strong- N. winds. Fine and dry, strong sea breezes. Ditto, Earthquakes felt, ditto, ditto. Very dry, ditto, moderate ditto. Fine, with light showers. Mostly ditto, with heavy ditto. Many showers, but generally fine. Some heavy rain, ditto. Mornings fine, noon heavy rains. Some heavy rain, mostly fine. Ditto, ditto. Some rain, generally fine. On the southern side of the island, the sea breeze from the * For a more accurate account of the winds, vide page 1 78. t That the climate of Jamaica has undergone great change since the cultivation of the isle is most true. From Mr. Nedham's journal, kept at Mount Olive, in the parish of St. Thomas in the Vale, 1 find that the thermometer is noted January 5th at 50 — " ivhole day cold." Governor Modyford, in a letter to Lord Arlington, then, in 1665, Secretary of State, observes, with regard to the healthiness of the island, that " the officers of the old army, from strict saints, are turned debosht devils;" and " really my Lord," he adds, " no man hath died but an account hath been given — y' he gott his decease either by surfeitts or travelling at high noone in a hott day — or being wett with rain, and not changing in season. The Spaniards, at their first coming, (I mean those who trade with the Royall Company) wondered much at the sickness of some of our people ; but when they understood of the strength of their drinkes, and the great quantity they charged themselves with, and the little observation of times and seasons, they told me they wondered more they were not all dead. Their health and cheerfulness depending upon their temperance, which, being my natural disposition, I doubt not but will continue me capable to serve his Majestic," &c. &c. VOL. II. N ITS LAND AND SEA BREEZES, 8cc. eolith-eastward comes on in the morning, and gradually in- creases till noon, when it is strongest ; at two or three in the afternoon its force diminishes, and in general it entirely ceases by five o'clock. About eight in the evening the land breeze begins ; this breeze extends to the distance of four leagues to the southward of the island. It increases until mid-night, and ceases about four in the morning. The sea and land-breezes are pretty regular from the latter end of January until May. In the middle of May the sea- breeze generally prevails for several days and nights, especi- ally about the times of full and change of the moon, and thus they continue throughout June and part of July: from that time the sea-breeze diminishes, and veers round toS. byW. or S. S. W., with frequent calms. August, September, and October, have generally strong gales of wind, with much rain. In December, January, and February, when the north winds predominate, their force checks the sea-breeze. The southern coast is that, which, of course, is least exposed to these winds, being sheltered in a great measure by the moun- tains. When combined with the land breeze they render the air very cold and unhealthy. On the northern side of the island, during the greatest part of July, and the whole of August, the southerly, or sea-breeze, generally blows hard off the land, with frequent squalls ; but in October, northerly winds prevail, and frequently extend over all the Bahamas and Cuba ; and for some time on the north side of Jamaica, where the current of air is forced up- wards by the mountains, and its sti'ength spent in the heights ; but it sometimes reaches the southern coast, particularly in the neighbourhood of Kingston, and has been known to con- tinue for some days. During the winter season, the land-breeze is more general off the shores than in summer ; and it sometimes continues through the day as well as night. Westerly winds prevail also over the whole space between Jamaica and Cuba, and even so far as the Island of Hayti. On the south side of the island, during the month of CLIMATE IN THE INTERIOR OF JAMAICA. 179 November, southerly winds generally prevail, and have been known to extend from the Mosquito shore. These winds are generally faint ; nor do they reach the land until it be heated by the sun, and soon after mid-day are often expelled by a fresh land-breeze, which also abates in a few hours. The return of tlie sea-breeze in autumn is gradual; it first approaches the east end, then advances a little, and some- times reaches Morant Point a fortnight or more before it is felt above Kingston. It also continues to blow a week or two later on the east end of the island than at Kingston ; and has been known in some years to prevail there in the day-time, during the whole time it was unfelt at the former place. Tliat the climate is not inimical to the human constitution* is evident from the long lives and good health which Euro- peans and negroesf enjoy who live temperately, — and indeed intemperance, which in more temperate climate would be punished with death, here too often and too long escapes with impunity. At Stoney Hill garrison, nine miles from Kingston, and 2,000 feet above the sea, the thermometer is generally during the hot months 74 at 6 a. m., 82 at 2 p. m., and 80 at 6 p.m. ; during the cold months at corresponding hours, 68 — 75 and 73; in November and December, when the north winds prevail, the mercury falls as low as 66 F. At Trelawney-Maroon town, which is situate on a very high mountain in the interior of the island, between the parishes of Westmoreland and St. James the thermometer seldom or ever rises higher than 71 or 72 at noon, falling during the night and early part of the morning as low as 50 and 52. The troops stationed here have for several years enjoyed as good if not indeed a better state of health than they would perhaps have experienced in any other part of the world; and, in 1795, when the yellow fever was at its acme in Ja- maica, the men and officers of a newly raised regiment (83rd) * Of late years the yellow fever has almost, if not quite, disappeared from Jamaica and the other West India islands, t A negro, called 'Poor Hope,' recently died at Jamaica, aged 150 years I 180 COMPARATIVE HEALTH AT DIFFERENT STATIONS. did not lose a man by fever at this station.* I have the testimony of that highly intelligent and zealous officer, Dr. Adolphus, Inspector of Military Hospitals, whose eminent services in Jamaica, and wherever his professional zeal and duties have been engaged are duly appreciated, in proof that the climate of Jamaica has of late years most materially im- proved ; that the high-lands of this beautiful isle are well adap- ted to the European constitution, the more so when they become cleared and cultivated, (a measure, I trust, which will speedily be accomplished), and there are many districts in the interior of Jamaica where the climate and soil are nearly as favourable to health as in any part of Britain, which dis- tricts are the property of the crown and now lying waste. Vegetable productions. Fruitful in all the rich vege- tation of the tropics, but having for its present staple sugar we will first advert to that important article. It is difficult to say whether the sugar cane is indigenous to the Antilles, or whether, as some say, it was introduced from the Canaries into Hispaniola, soon after the discovery of the New World ;f * The comparative health of the different Military Stations at a period of unusual sickness — namely, for six years ending in 1822, is thus shewn : Average Station, Strength. Deaths. Ratio. Up-ParkCamp - 5,543 1,100 1 in -5 StoneyHill - - 1,878 163 1 in 11^ Port Royal - - 1,651 190 1 in 83 Fort Augusta - - 2,024 126 1 in 16 Spanish Town - - 1,885 300 1 in 6i Port Antonio - - 814 124 1 in 64 Port Maria - - 115 30 1 in 3^ Falmouth - - 703 65 1 in 102 Maroon Town - - 576 9 1 in 64 Lucia - _ . 417 29 1 in 14i Savannah le Mar - 331 47 1 in 7 Moutego Bay - - II7 10 ] in 10* The total number of deaths during each of the six years ending in 1822, was 315, 332, 754, 300, 312, 287. Ouing to the humane zeal of Sir James M'Gregor, the mortality in the West Indian army has, of late years, been considerably diminished. t The sugar cane is asserted by many not to have been cultivated in the New World on its discovery by Columbus— it is known tliat this valuable reed VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS OE JAMAICA — SUGAR. ISl eertain it is that at an early period it was extensively cul- tivated by the Spaniards in Jamaica, and in 1671 Traphan speaks of the numerous complicated sugar works like a town or village in various parts of the island.* The quantity of sugar now made in Jaraaica is very great ; and the impor- tations into Great Britain have for some years averaged cwts. 1,400,000: which, rated so low as 21*. per cwt., would give nearly one million and a half sterling. The Jamaica was introduced from Asia via Africa, Spain, the Canary Islands, and thence to St. DoniinoQ in 1520, when the first sii,2:ar plantation was established, the number of which had increased to thirty in 1635: this was the 'creole' cane. In 1/88 JM. Martin, a French botanist, introduced the celebrated Otaheite cane into Cayenne and Martinico frotn the Isle of France, whither it had been brought by the justly celebrated Bougainville. The great advantage of this latter cane is its flexibility of organization, or property of accommodating itself to various temperatures much more than the Canary or Creole cane, (.which will scarcely yield any sugar in Louisiana ;) besides it yields more sugar and of better quality, does not require re- planting in three times the time the Creole cane does, (every two or three years) and it yields more refuse for fuel. Although the Spaniards at first attended to the cultivation of sugar, it was subsequently neglected. In the year 1743 the chief productions of Jamaica were cocoa, indigo and hides ; the cultivation of sugar had just re-commenced. The increase in the growth of this staple article of the island has been as follows : — 1722, 11,000 hogsheads were exported; 1739, 33,155; 1744, 35,761; 1768, 65,000; 1774,78,304; 1790, 105,400; 1802, 140,000; 1832, cwts. 1,200,000. * Governor Knowles's calculation in 1755 was — 2,128,431 acres un- granted, out of which 400,000 are plantable ; of these 100,000 are fit far growing sugar, and the rest for coflfee : the remaining 1,728,431 consist of barren mountains, &c. A return was made about the year 1765, of properties in the parish of St. Andrew's, and their produce, to the Board of Trade. In this, an estate called Norbrook, the property of Charles Long, Esq. is thus entered ; — ' 2,222 acres, 55 hogsheads of sugar, nine puncheons of rura ; five acres in coffee, producing 2,972 cwt. ; 100 acres in provision ground ; 500 in pen and pasture — five servants, 153 negroes, and eighty- six head of cattle. Indifferent land — some parts rocky and mountainous.' This estate, in the return of 1739, is put at sixty hogsheads. The culti- vation of Jamaica in 1818, according to Mr. Robertson's survey, was — in sugar plantations, 639,000 acres ; in breeding farms or fens, 280,000 i and in coffee, pimento, ginger, &c, 181,000 ;— total 1,100,000. 182 RUM, COFFEE, &C. — IMI'ORTANCE OF JAMAICA. sugar is of a very line quality, and by the improved systems of culture and manufacture coming into operation, there is little doubt but that the quantity and quality may yet be more extended* if the Home Government will reduce the monstrous rate of taxation now levied on what ceases to be a luxury, for it is a necessary of life to the poorest individual. The quantity of rum made from the sugar is also very great ; the annual average exportations to England may be taken at 3,500,000 gallons, which may be estimated in value at 1,000,000/. sterling. The Jamaica rum is justly prized as an excellent spirit. Of coffee, (and that too of excellent quality,) the quantity grown in Jamaica is very great : and the importation into Great Britain nearly 20,000,000 Ibs.-j- yearly, which, at the low value of 1*. per pound, is another million sterling. Now let the opponents of the colonies remember that this great accession of wealth, annually produced and crossing the Atlantic to Great Britain, is not grown or prepared by foreigners on a foreign soil, but by Englishmen, on land that * Dr. Ailiilpluis, of Jainaica, (for whose opinions I entertain the highest respect) on perusing my manuscript, has done me the favour of appending the following note ; — * The abolition of slavery will render this quite im- possible ; the negroes will not work for wages ; their idea of freedom is entire exemption from labour. The apprenticeship system will prove an unpleasant pastime.' If the worthy doctor's view be correct, there is the more necessity for the location of a white population in the island. -j- The cofice plant was first introduced into Jaumica by Sir Nicholas Lawcs in 1/28, where it was cultivated on an estate calleil Temple Hall, in Linguanea. An act of legislature of the island was passed to encourage its growth; and in 1/32 cotTee was advertized in a Jamaica paper at a pistole a pound ; in 1662 tliere were exported 60,000 lbs. — and in 1 77 j, 440,000 lbs. Until 1/88 little attention was paid to this singular berry. In the four years ending .SOth September, 1794, the average exportation of coffee was i,()()3,0()6 ll)s. — in 1804 it amounted to 22,000,000 lbs. ; and during three years ending 30th of September, 1807, the average exportation was more than 2H,500,000 lbs., which, at .^6 per cwt. its cost in Jamaica produced more than ^^1,700,000. The production is now about 20,000,000 lbs. yearly. It is calculated that ^'20,000,000 is invested in cofice estates. The coffee plant thrives in almost every soil about the mountains of Jamaica, and in the very driest spots has frequently produced very abun'laiit crops. COTTON, COCOA, DYES, DRUGS, ESCULENTS, &C. 18iJ is as much a part and parcel of the empire as any field around London. Cotton, indigo, and cocoa,* were at one time extensively cultivated ; but they have principally given place to the fore- going staples of the island. Various drugs, dye stuffs, and spices, are of excellent quality. Aloes, cochineal, spikenard, canella, liquorice root, castor oil nut, vanilla, peppers, arrow- root, ginger, ipecacuanha, scammony, jalap, cassia, euphorbia, senna, &c. all attest the fruitfulness and capabilities of the soil and climate. The cultivated vegetables of Europe arrive at great perfection. Maize is the principal corn grown, and together with calavances, the yam and sweet potatoe, cassava, &c. form the chief food of the negroes. Various grasses thrive, but Guinea grass abounds ; and, in consequence, of its indispensable importance in feeding the cattle that supply manure for the sugar plantations, it is considered next in importance to the sugar cane. It was introduced into the island in the early part of the last century by accident, having been forwarded with some Guinea birds that were sent as a present. The birds died, the seed was thrown away, the grass sprung vip, and the cattle were observed to devour it eagerly, attention was accordingly paid to the subject. It now grows all over the island, thriving in the most rocky places, and rendering (like sainfoin) lands pro- ductive that were heretofore considered barren, and making good hay, if salted or sprinkled with sea water when being ricke d.The immigration of European industry would doubt- less make further additions to West Indian agriculture. Of vegetables — potatoes (Irish and sweet), yam, cassava, peas and beans of every variety, artichokes, beet root, carrots and parsnips, cucumbers and tomatoes, radishes, celery, choco, ochro, Lima bean, Indian kale, calalue, various salads, cab- bage trees (two hundred feet high !)f , &c. all flourish in * Blomc, who published a short account of. Jamaica in 1672, mentions the existence of sixty cocoa walks. At present there can scarcely be said to be a plantation in the whole island. t Some cabbage trees have been known 2~0 fcei high. 18 i DELICIOUS FRUITS — BEAUTIFUL PIMENTO TREE. abundance ; and, indeed, it may be said that Autumn is per- petual in Jamaica, for every month presents a fresh collation of fruits and vegetables, and some species are at maturity all the year round. The bread-fruit tree, cocoa nut, plaintain and banana, alligator pear, the delicious mellow fig, pine, cashew — papaw — and custard apples, orange, lime, lemon, mango, grape, guava, pomegranate, soursop, shaddock, plums, tamarind, melon, wall and ches-nut, mulberry, olive, date, citron, and many other delicious fruits, all arrive at perfection. The native and exotic grasses are excellent for cattle and horses, in particular that called the Scotch grass, which vegetates rapidly, and grows to the height of five or six feet, with long and juicy joints. Five horses may be fed for a year on an acre of this vegetable, allowing each, every day, fifty-six lbs. of grass. Of Trees Jamaica possesses a great variety, one of the most valuable of which is the pimento,* which flourishes spontaneously and in great abundance on the N. side of the island; its numerous white blossoms, mixing with the dark green fohage, and with the slightest breeze diffusing around the most delicious fragrance, give a beauty and charm to nature rarely equalled, and of which he who has not visited the shady arbours and perfumed groves of the tropics can have little conception. This lovely tree, the very leaf of which bruized emits a fine aromatic odour, nearly as powerful as that of the spice itself, has been known to grow to the height of from thirty to forty feet, exceedingly straight, and having for its base the spinous ridge of a rock, eight or ten feet above the surface of the hill or mountain. A single tree will pro- duce one hundred and fifty of the raw, or one hundred pounds of the dried fi'uit. The indigenous forest and even exotic trees of Jamaica grow to a prodigious height; the palmetto royal is frequently found one hundred and forty feet, the vast trunks of the ceiba, (wild cotton tree) and fig-trees, often measure ninety feet from the base to the limbs, and the • The cultivatioi) of jjiiuento is extending (as is also that of ginger) iu Jamaica. FOREST TREES — CULTIVATION OF THE SUNFLOWER. 185 trunk* of the formei', when hollowed out, has formed a boat capable of holding one hundred persons. There is a great variety of timber for agricultural and household purposes, and some exquisitely beautiful cabinet woods. The trumpet tree grows from thirty to forty feet high, its trunk and branches are hollowed and divided with mem- braneous septae like the bamboo : it produces an agreeable fruit, like our strawberry, the strong and fibrous bark is used for cordage, and the light trunks are for bark logs, &c. The bamboo is plentiful, and houses built by the Spaniards with it at St. Jago de la Vega (Spanish Town) are still standing. Cedar, mahogany, lignum \\tse, Spanish elm, mangeneel, brae- ziletto, the valuable palmetto,-}- (thatch), white bully, or gali- meta, dog-pigeon-rose — beef and iron woods, the black man- grove, greenheart, &;c. all flourish.;}: The attention of the planters is being now turned to the cultivation of other vegetable productions, which I doubt not will be attended with success ; for instance, a correspondent in a recent Jamaica journal, makes the following observations on a plant of great beauty and worth, the utility of cultivating which is deserving of consideration in our other colonies, and indeed at home. * The Sun-flower is a plant of peculiar beauty, and which, if cultivated with attention, may be rendered valuable in a pecuniary point of view. Its fecundity in this climate renders it far preferable to corn for the common purposes of food for poultry ; and xvhen mixed with corn in the proportion of a pint to two quarts, it is valuable as a nutricious food for horses. As a proof of its fruitfiilness, I have lately gathered several hundred heads ; and averaging the quantity collected by the stalks from whence taken, I find that each stalk may have produced eleven flowers, and that eight flowers will yield one quart of clean seed, by a process much less laborious than rubbing out corn.' [Maize, called " corn," is husked by the hand.] * For the production of an oil, in my opinion preferable to olive oil, the seeds of the Sun-flower are more easily manufactured than even the Castor * The wild pine commonly takes root in the forks of the ceiba, and by the conformation of its leaves, catches and retains the rain water, each leaf holding about a quart ; it would seem as if nature designed it to supply the gigantic truuk with occasional moisture. t Has I)ccn found 140 feet high. + Vide Guyana Chapter. 186 ANIMAL KINGDOM OF JAMAICA. nut, and will yield a greater proportion either by heat or pressure. In short, like many other productions of Jamaica which are overlooked in the eager pursuit of Supar and Coffee, the Sun-flower, which here grows with such superior luxuriance, needs only to be more extensively cultivated to add to the valuable gifts of nature in the torrid zone. The best manner of planting them, as indeed I have seen practised in the North of Italy, is to dibble them, in rows about three feet asumler, putting two seeds into each hole ; in this way I have reaped the ripe seed ten weeks after planting.' Animals. Animal life has attained neither great variety nor size in the new world, and the islands appertaining to that vast continent, when discovered, were found to contain but few species ; Jamaica, for instance, had only eight varieties of quadrupeds, — the agouti, peccari, armadillo, opossum, racoon, musk rat, alco, and monkey, of these only the first and last remain ; all the domesticated animals of Europe thrive, and are found to multiply fast ; there are many varieties of beautiful lizards, and the feathered tribe are exceedingly numerous, and some (especially the parrot) of fine plumage. Of the wild fowl, the most delicious are the ring-dove and the rice bird of S. Carolina, which, after fattening on the rice there arrive in Jamaica in countless numbers in October, to feed on the Guinea grass. Epicures compare the plump and juicy flesh of this delicacy to the Ortolan. Fish. The rivers and sea coast abound in fish of various quality, and there are several salt ponds which, if attended to, might render the planters in a great measure independent of supplies of salt fish from Europe. The sprat, herring, dolphin, anchovie or silver fish ; the flying, sword, sun, parrot, rock, king and gar fishes ; flounder, sole, eel, bream, snapper, mullet, perch, boneeto, Spanish mackerel, sea devil, (weighing from 100 to 300 lbs.) old wife, shark, porpoise, sting ray, thrasher, &c. &c. may be caught ; sea and land turtle are plentiful and good eating. Reptiles. The silver, black and yellow snakes are numer- ous, excepting the former ; the yellow is considered good eating by the negroes ; the alligator, together with varieties of lizards, guanas, and chameleons, are natives of the isle.* * The animal kingdom of the West Indies is fully detailed in Chapter I. POPULATION — EARLY ACCOUNTS OF. 187 Population. It is a melancholy reflection that the abo- riginaj inhabitants of Jamaica, to the amount probably of several hundred thousand, were destroyed by the European colonists within fifty years after their settling on its shores ; had they been preserved, as sound policy as well as humanity would have dictated — and of which the island of Ceylon, with its miUion of coloured inhabitants, afford us an excellent illustration, the deadly curse of slavery — doubly curst to the enslaved and the enslaver — would have been avoided, and an incalculable amount of human misery prevented. We have no authentic accounts of the Indian population on the island when first visited by Columbus ; all accounts agree in representing it as densely peopled — within half a century they had all ceased to exist!* The original Spanish colony consisted of seventy persons, whose numbers were ra- pidly increased by immigration, until the riches of the main land caused Jamaica to be comparatively neglected, and the incursions of freebooters rendering property insecure checked population ; it would appear that the Spaniards began early to import negro slaves, but on the capture of the island by the British in 1655, Venables stated the whole population to be — not more than 1,500 Spaniards and Portuguese and an equal number of negroes and mulattoes, although Spain had been one hundred and forty-six years in possession of the island. The troubles in England dui'ing the common wealth and the early years of the restoration, contributed materially to people our western colonies, and Jamaica exhibited the fol- lowing progressive rate of population.j- * Las Casas says—' they hanged these unfortunates by thirteen, in honour of the thuteen Apostles ; — I have beheld them throw the Indian infants to their dogs, — I have heard the Spaniards borrow the limb of an human being to feed their dogs, and next day return a quarter to the lender ! * t Seven years after the conquest of Jamaica by England a census was taken, of which the aggregate was — 2,600 men, 645 women, 408 children, and 652 negroes, hi this census the acres under cultivation are 2,917. 188 PROGRESSIVE SLAVE POPULATION; IMPERFECT Free Free Year. Whites. Coloured. Slaves.* Year. Whites. Coloured. Slaves. 1658t 4,500 1,400 1768 17,947 176,914 1670 7,500 8,000 1775 18,500 3,700 190,914 1734 7,644 86,146 1717 30,000 10,000 250,000 1746 10,000 112,428 1800 300,000 The number of Slaves in Jamaica at the expiration of each year, from 1800 to 1817 was| — A. D. No. of Slaves. A. D. No. of Slaves. A. D. No. of Slaves- 1800 - 300,939 1806 - 312,341 1812 - 319,912 1801 - 307;094 1807 - 119,351 1813 - 317,424 1803 - 307,199 1808 - 323,827 1814 - 315,385 1803 - 308,668 1809 - 323,714 1815 - 313,814 1804 - 308,542 1810 - 313,683 1816 - 314,038 1805 - 303,775 1811 - 326,830 1S17 - 345,252 stand of Acres Men. Women. children. Negroes. Arms. planted. Precincts of Port Morant 168 53 37 126 99 467 JMorant .... 122 14 17 53 35 129 Yallah .... 207 36 19 64 53 353 Ligonee (now Liguana) 553 139 135 31 121 480 St. Ja^o Town 207 62 42 32 38 83 Black River, Bower's Sa- "1 vannah, &c. . . J 138 17 10 24 38 128 Angells .... 96 15 14 46 50 133 Seven Plantations, Bay of 1 Macario, and Qua'tha- i 216 41 48 45 95 205 bacoa . . .J Guanaboa and Guardaleone 351 38 26 63 89 610 Cagua .... 400 150 80 40 100 — 2458 454§ 448 514 618 2588 • From the year 1702 (when the importation was 800) to 1774, when the importation was 18,000) the number of slaves imported into Jamaica was hoJf a milUon, of which 130,000 were re-exported, and of those retained in the island not more than 19,000 were alive in 1775. f Census of Jamaica, December 12, 1661. X I give these returns, together with many other documents, as histo- rical records for future comparison. § Some errata, but of no importance in a general view. CENSUS, AND NEGLECT OF THE JAMAICA LEGISLATURE. 189 From 1817 to 1829 (the latest years before me) the Slave Population of Jamaica was — Increase by Decrease by Decrease by Birth. Death. sion. . in i >• •3 1 1 M C (U s es •-6 o c s c a, ^2 o S p c 3 O P5 O B t3s O ji o *" ' h V (N s t? O < W 1 O 01 ^ > I-) s m •V -r X o o ;i IM rj o ^ 4 — hC Ol - 03 t^ a O) c OO u -^ — « o o S OS OS t> 1 a — « n a oo t> to CQ ;z; m IN to m OCT — . — a. 5^ M to » -1 IM '^ s to to H : '"' J= "i S : S fo fi IS • o >. ■3 • ■91 "* a Of . " : "" . lO « to (M to Corr Bean Oats &c. pq TlT r-T in CT _ — 1^ Ol OJ X>tO 1^ -' ^ ; t>. lA !>. •pBaig ^ i^ £i ^S : •^ S- OS pq m to 2 u OS to OS i^ ^ I* Ol ^ CT 00 S'- ". - f; to w ' : o :-r g s S|l -.B'^'-j — = = J; = -^ E 5: . 5 ^ £«5«rS= 1 u. »(s< gtSt^ . » ■* "^Os en •pooAV dJ 5 jsniqB.o £^ Ij •jBpao poB in OS 3i . 00 'ti XoBSoifep^ . « ■Xaoqa s^ ■^ •aeilA n 2 . 00 s •poo.vv aS 90 •Bn^BJBOIX hS? m . M ic — GO •opstij fi^ 2 ^ •poojaSoT E-fi - T I^ (N • 0> ^ •sapiH A OS : "« © -3 OS •noipoo ^ •sjBaiu 1 « 1 t- ■aoinf aran a, *" OS , - »; ■= OD 00 ^« as « § o o M^- ■^ ss ?? Is 1 - S f. V 6 «,^ ., 2 S Oh ■^ to lO 5 N !b K ^ en ^ * in o -■ io — c S « on ^ w22 OS OS tu S3 . . t" B r: 05 a- — C r^ •sassEjoi^ B. - to ?i Ti to 1. to to .to — to 1, ■C 71 — 3 ») ^m ^ ~ to • OD '^i ^ ffl^- : - ? it .•to .5x : c^ o H cc : OS K B = ^ OS • a s Z^ o.*i : §. •5 . .= : r ? X lis :|i£ n W 3. i3 D ^ c = z; "S ! : ^ u "ga-cg; - ri ^ n^ 204 EXPORTS FROM JAMAICA FOR THIRTY YEARS. An Account of Sug.ir, Rum, and other Produce, exported from the Island of Jamaica, from the year ending the 29th September, 1800, to the year ending 29th September, inclu- sive, 1829; extracted from the Journals of the House of As- sembly at Jamaica : — Sugar. Rum. Molasses Ginger. Pimento. CoflFee. Hds. Tierc. Bar. Pun. Hds. Casks. Bags Casks. Bags. Casks. lbs. 1800 96,34; 13,549 1.631 37.166 1,350 3,586 444 12,759 610 11,116,474 1801 123,251 18,704 2,692 18.879 1,514 239 12 14,084 64^ 13,401,468 1802 129,54J 15,405 2,403 45,632 2,073 366 2,079 23 7,793 591 17,961,923 1803 107,387 11,825 1,797 13,29^ 1,41'^ 461 3,287 51 14,875 867 15,866,291 1804 103,352 12,802 2,207 42,207 913 429 1,854 1,094 19,572 1,417 32,063,990 1805 137,906 17,9;" 3,682 53,211 1,328 471 2,128 315 7.15- 2S8 ■24,137,393 1806 133,991' 18,237 3.579 58.191 1,178 499 1,815- 485 19,531 1,094 -9,293,036 1807 123,175 17,344 3,716 51.812 1,998 699 1,411 512 19,224 525 26,7'-l,188 1808 121,44J 15,836 2,625 52,409 2,196 379 1,470 436 6.529 225 29,528,673 1809 104,45; 14,596 3,534 43,492 2,717 230 572 2,321 1,17" 24,022 25,596,668 1810 108,7OL- 4,560 3,719 42,353 1,964 293 1,881 520 il,163 4,276 25,885,285 1811 127,751 15,236 3,046 54,093 2,041 446 2,072 1,110 22,074 636 17.460,068 1812 105,28!' 11,357 2,558 43,346 1,531 151 1,23S 804 7,778 59s 18,491,896 1813 97,45^ 10,029 2,304 14,618 1,345 208 l,42t 8I6 14.361 1,024 24,6-23,572 1814 I01,84f 10,485 2,575 43,486 1,557 145 1,668 884 10,711 394 34,045,585 1815 118,76; 12,224 2,817 52,996 1,465 242 1,667 1,493 ;7,336 844 27,362.742 1816 93,881 9,332 2,236 35,736 769 166 1,118 2,354 28,057 851 17,282,293 181/ 116,011 11,094 2,868 47,949 1,094 254 1,896 3,361 15,817 946 14.79i,296 1818 n3,8U 11,388 2,786 50,195 1,108 407 1,067 2,326 21,071 941 25,329,456 1819 108,30.- 11,540 3,244 43,946 1,695 253 718 1,714 24,500 882 14,091,493 1820 I15,06J 11,322 2,474 45,361 1,783 252 316 1,159 12,880 673 22,127,444 1821 111,511 11,703 1,972 46,802 1,793 167 271 984 24,827 1,224 16,819,761 1822 88,551 8,705 1,292 28.728 1,124 144 72 891 18,672 699 19,773,992 1823 94,90: 9,179 1,947 35.242 1,935 614 60 1,041 21,481 1,894 20,226,445 1824 99,225 9,651 2,791 37,121 3,261 910 52 2,230 33,308 599 27,677,239 1825 73,813 7,380 2,858 27,630 2,077 894 348 3,947 20,979 537 21,254.656 1826 99,9rb 9,514 3,126 35,610 3,098 549 517 5,724 16,433 lb 522 20,352,886 182- 82,396 7,554 3,441 33.348 3,099 214 186 4,826 2,807,522 25,206,020 1828 81,90b 8,724 2,910 33,717 3,253 283 41'i 1,942 2,473,153 17,247,943 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 91,150 9,564 3,392 36,931 2,513 167 319 1,333 6,069,127 13,955,732 As state d ui ider Gm /am z, it is dif icult to i brm a defin idea of the amount of property in any place. Mr, Colquhoun, in 1812, estimated Jamaica thus: — Negroes, £19,2n0,000 ; cultivated lands, (809,450 acres) £16,189,000; uncultivated, (1,914,812 acres) £1,914,812; buildings, utensils, &c. on estates, £12,709,450; stock on estates, £4,800,000; houses, stores, merchandize and furniture, £2,000,000 ; colonial ship- ping, £42,000 ; metallic money, £220,000; forts, barracks, &c. £1,000,000;— total, £58,125,298 sterHng. The same authority estimated the productions annually raised, including cattle, esculents, &c. at £11,169,601 ; exports to the United King- dom, £6,885,339— and to the other places, £381,322. It will be observed, therefore, that in the following statement I have undervalued the yearly creation and total amount of property in Jamaica, — PROPERTY ANNUALLY CREATED — MOVABLE & IMMOVABLE. 205 00 c o be a c > o S S I— ( a ei > o C B >» ■<^ O o Cm O 0) C3 'X)j9n3)^j •pooj 3tq«ja3aA 5 t 5-5 =-=3=«S tsss ^=J^«S ■S 5 mn •nins ^2S .£-o» iisi ^.-ll "2. s — p.^ o 3 0_ fcfl o o •'> o_ g (N ^^ ^ o ^ o a; ^ ^^ i c^ S ^ •5 -^ 50 O to c; -= O -S ^ o S -5 .5 o S 5 ^ .^M •> a> , tr 3 s .» 0) to =1: IJ C^ >> ^ u O s (fl rt J5 b o « CS rf c u & o .2 e3 "5 aj ^ rt c ^ a< .s '^ c t4-l :3 1-1 •" i^ J ^ o Vll V3 W o * o ^ o' CO r1 &, (>< lO _> o 8 CO S 3 ^ (N V o « o ^ ^ C8 o ^ o C3 es 0) ^ bCO 4J C O • ^ n r^i! C?i c o H o o NN ^H o o Cm o -f- 1— ^' ■♦-«• >rf« O c^ o s 'M CN s 206 POST OFFICE AND PACKET ROUTINF. General Post-office, Jamaica. The mails for all parts of the island are closed at four, p. m. every Saturday, and dispatched from the General Post-office the same day, at six, p. M. The return mails arrive at ten, a. m. every Thursday, and the letters are delivered at the General Post-office the same day, at noon. An extra mail for Spanish Town leaves the General Post-office, at nine, a. m. every Friday, and arrives again the following day, at eight, a. m. The rates of postage are from 7^(1. to 1*. or/, for single letters, according to distance. Two packets are dispatched monthly from Great Britain for this island. The first sails from Falmouth on the Satur- day after the first Wednesday ; touches on her passage at Barbadoes, St. Vincent's, and Grenada; and after her arrival at Port Royal, where she remains two days, proceeds to Car- thagena, where she remains until the mail, that is dispatched from Bogota on the 2oth of every month, arrives, and, after her return to Port Royal, proceeds to Falmouth, touching at the Crooked Islands on her way home. Three Saturdays must intervene between her first arrival at, and final sailing from, Port Royal, and, vmless postponed by the Governor, she sails on the Tuesday following the last Saturday. The second sails from Falmouth, on the Saturday after the third Wednesday, and heaves to off Jacmel to land a mail for St. Domingo. After arriving at Port Royal, she remains two days, when she proceeds to Belize, Honduras, where she remains two days ; and from thence to Zampico, where she leaves for la Vera Cruz, and afterwards returns to Zampico, in doing which she is occupied ten or twelve days ; and then proceeds to the Havanna, where she again remains two days ; and finally prosecutes her voyage from thence to Falmouth, G. B. The mail for Great Britian is made up at the General Post-office, on the Monday previous to the sailing of the first packet, at four, p. m. The first packet is expected from Great Britain about the 20th of every month, and, if she arrives between Saturday and Tuesday inclusive, the mails for the country are forwarded by express. The second packet THE PRESS — EDUCATION AND RELIGION. 207 may be looked for about a week after the former, in conse- quence of her not having to call at the Windward Islands in her route. There is no express post for the second packet. . ThePress, Education, AND Religion. I connect the three foregoing subjects under one head, because they are intimately blended with each other. The pi'ess is unshackled by stamp duties, and on the increase ; there are six newspapers (two daily and four weekly), in the island, all well conducted, and displaying considerable talent ;* every class of the community has its public organ, and there is, perhaps, less petty feeling and faction displayed than in many journals of the Mother Country. Education is rapidly progressing under the aid of the local government, as well as with the assistance of private individuals. In the expenditure budget of the island for 1831, there is nearly £ 10,000 allotted for free schools.f In 1821, (since which all accounts agree in admitting a very great increase), the public or free schools and scholars were, Schools, 23; Male Scholars, 1,125; Female, 912; Total, 2,037. (In 1827 the number of Scholars was 3,500.) The efforts for the extension of religion have been great, whether they have produced a beneficial eftect as yet it is difficult to say ; the outlay by the colonial government for the purpose is considerable, viz. nearly £'25,000 per annum, (vide Expenditure). The bishop of Jamaica (whose see ex- tends over the Bahamas and Honduras), has £4,000 sterling per annum, and the archdeacon £2,000 ditto. There are twenty-one rectors, and altogether of clergymen of the estab- lished church fifty-seven. The Scots Presbyterian clergy- men are in number four, the Wesleyan ditto about twenty- four, the Baptist ditto sixteen, and the Moravian eight. The crown livings in Jamaica were in the gift of the * The Jamaica almanac stands much in need of reform, it is more barren of general information than those of some of the smallest islands in the West Indies. Those of 1832 and 1833 have in some degree improved. t The Jamaica free school has 1,620/.; Wolmer's ditto, 1,500/.; Vera ditto, 1,120/. ; and so on. 208 THE CAYMAN ISLF.S. governor, in virtue of his station as such.* The esta- blished church clergy are paid partly by a stipend, partly by fees; take for instance the parish of St. Ann's, as an example; acres,235,260 ; slaves, 24,761 ; proprietors, 47. 6.; stipend, £378; fees, average, £200, vestry allowances, average, £400; church burials, £50; total, £ 1,028— with thirty acres of glebe and an island curate. Some parishes have a large glebe ; thus, St. EHzabeth's has three hundred acres of glebe, a rfectory and sixty-eight slaves, and the income is— stipend, £378; fees, £245; burials £50; total £673 — and'^the aid of an island curate and auxiHary. The Rev. Mr. Bridges says that the average annual expenditure of Jamaica of late years, for her ecclesiastical establishment, has not fallen far short of £30,000, (an immense sum for so small a country). He gives the rectors' stipends at £ 8,820, the curates' salaries £10,550, the aggregate vestry allowances £3,430, and the average sum drawn from the inhabitants for surplice fees £ 5,372, independent of the annual expenditure in maintaining thirty-nine churches and chapels. Pluralities are not permitted, and the slave (or as he is now termed, the apprentice), is entitled to demand the gratuitous services of the clergy ; these facts speak volumes in favour of the long calumniated colonists. Before summing up this Chapter, it is necessary to advert to a dependency of Jamaica, termed THE CAYMAN ISLES. Locality. The Caymans are three small isles, in Lat. 19.20. N. ; from thirty to forty leagues N. N. W. from Point Negrill, on the westward of Jamaica, the grand Cayman being the most remote. Cayman-braque and Little Cayman lie within five miles of each other, and about thirty-four miles N. from the Grand Cayman, which is about one mile and a half long, and one mile broad, and containing about 1,000 acres. History. Columbus fell in with these islands on his return from Porto Bello to Hispaniola, and observing the * Now in the gift of the bishop. THEIR PHYSICAL ASPECT — GOVERNMENT — TURTLES, &C. '209 coast swarming with turtle, like ridges of rocks, he called them Las Tortugas. The Caymans were never occupied by the Spaniards, but became the general resort of adventurers or rovers, (chiefly French), for the sake of the turtle, which rendezvoused here to lay their eggs in the sand, and then returned to the gulph of Mexico, Bay of Honduras, and the adjacent coast.* In 1655, when Jamaica was taken by England, the Caymans were still uninhabited. Physical Aspect. Grand Cayman (the only island inha- bited) is so low that it cannot be seen from a ship's quarter- deck more than twelve or fifteen miles off, and at some dis- tance the lofty trees on it appear like a grove of masts emerg- ing from the ocean. It has no harbour, but the anchorage on the S. W. coast is moderately good ; on the other, or N. E. side, it is fortified with a reef of rocks, between which and the shore, in smooth water, the inhabitants have their craals, or pens, for keeping turtle in. The soil towards the middle of the island is very fertile, producing corn and vegetables in plenty, while hogs and poultry find ample provender. Inhabitants, Government, &c. The present race of in- habitants, of whose numbers I have not been able to find any accurate account,f are said to be descended from the English Buccaneers, and, being inured to the sea, form excellent * The instinct with which the sea turtle annuallj' visits a favourite breed- ing- spot is very remarkable. The Cayman isles near Jamaica are yearly frequented by innumerable shoals of these animals, who cross the ocean from the Bay of Honduras, a distance of 450 miles, without the aid of chart or compass, and with anaccuracy, says the eloquent historian of Jamaica (Long), superior to the best efforts of human skill; it is affirmed that vessels which have lost their latitude in hazy weather, have steered entirely by the noise of the turtle in swimming. The shore of the Caymans is low and sandy, and consequently well adapted to hatch the turtle eggs ; and the rich submarine pasturage around the islands afford abundance of nourishing? herbage to repair the waste which must ensue after a female lays nine ■hundred cggi- f Mr, Long states them to have reckoned in 1774, to the number of 106 white men, women and children. The Bishop of Jamaica in 182/ estimated the inhabitants at 1,600. VOL. II, P 210 ABOLITION' OF SLAVERY IN JAMAICA. pilots and seamen ; they have a chief or government officer of their own choosing and they frame their own regulations; justices of the peace are appointed from Jamaica, hut in no other way are the inhabitants interfered with by the authorities in the chief settlement to which they undoubtedly belong. The islands are extremely healthy, and the people attain a longevity, as they do also on the Mosquito shore, greater than is enjoyed in Europe. Social State and Future Prospects. The transition which society is now undergoing in all our slave colonies renders it impracticable to say much on this head : judging from the past, and from the temper with which the slave emancipation bill was passed,* a less gloomy, if not a * The hill finally passed the Jamaica House of Assembly 12th December, 1833 ; the following- are its leadinfT provisions : — From 1st August, 1834, the slaves, as^ed six and upwards, are to become apprenticed labourers without any formal indentures. The slaves are divided into three classes — Preedial labourers, employed on their master's lands — Prasdial labourers, employed on other lands — Non-prsedial labourers. The apprenticeships to cease in Aug-ust, 1840, and the hours of labour not to exceed forty-five hours in the week. Noii-praedial apprenticeships to cease in 1838. ISlasters to be liable for the maintenance of discharged labourers above fifty, or those that are disabled. Apprentices may purchase their discharge, without oonrent of the master, by paying the appraised value. The value to be appraised by three Justices of Peace, who are to order sums advanced on the security of the negro, to be paid out of the purchase- money. No apprentice to be removed from the island, nor to another estate, if the removal separates him from his wife or child. An employer's right to an apprentice's labour may be transferred by bar- gain or sale, but families not to be separated. The employer bound to supply the apprentice with food, clothes, and medicine. Children under twelve, now born, to be indentured, and remain appren- tices till twenty-one. Special Justices to be appointed for the execution of the Act, who shall take cognizance of offences committed by negroes. COLONIAL FKELING OX THE SUDJFCT OF I'.MANCIPATION". 211 more happy augury, than has been indulged in may be formed for the future ; the condition of the slave population has long been undergoing amelioration, and the coloured colonists have been admitted to those rights, and to that position in society to which their talents, wealth and conduct, might entitle them ; no political or religious disabilities exist ;* the progress of liberal institutions has been sufficiently gradual to allow of their taking permanent root, and affording that constitutional freedom which is the result of order, security of person, and the safe enjoyment of property. I look not despondingly on the prospects of Jamaica, or the other West India islands or possessions ; on the con- trary, I think (as indeed has been demonstrated by Mr. Ward, in reference to the cultivation of sugar on the South Ame- rican continent,) that the abolition of one of the direst curses with which mankind was ever afflicted, will place society on a surer basis, and give renewed stimulus and energy to every one possessed of property ;i- and when we reflect that out of There are long regulations as to punishment, which we cannot abridge 5 but it is enacted that females are not to be flogged. ■Sunday markets are to be abolished, and praedial labourers are to have Saturday free. The Kingston Commercial Advertizer thus temperately comments on the new state of things, — * The fate of the colony is now sealed, whether it be good or evil. Whether its resources will be developed, or its present means be totally annihilated, the revolution of time can alone fully determine. Prudence, self-preservation, and expediency, loudly proclaim the necessity of employ- ing means for rendering the changes now recognized and legalized by the Legislature of Jamaica conducive to the public good. A great duty lies before us, which is to rightly inform the negro mind, and prepare him for performing those duties to himself, his neighbour, his master, and the country, so essential to the welfare of all, and to the peace and happiness of society.' * A person of colour has now all the privileges of a white. t I am indebted to the philanthropic Dr. Adolphus, of Jamaica, for the following note appended while perusing my manuscript; I agree with the worthy writer in hoping he may be mistaken. ' The new order of things may probably succeed in the smaller islands ^12 ENGLAND SHOULD DO JUSTICE TO HER COLONIES. upwards of 4,000,000 acres in Jamaica, only 2,235,732 are occupied, and with on\y fifty-six mouths to a square mile (Bai'badoes has 816!) we see what ample scope there is for a developement of social prosperity and happiness. Lord Belmore justly observed, that the capabilities of this fine island would never be brought forward until slavery was abolished, — in this sentence his Lordship doubtless alluded to the introduction of free white labourers, the advantages of which will be found set forth under the General View of the West India Colonies; there are very many articles which might be largely cultivated and prepared in Jamaica, that would yield a more profitable return than sugar, such for in- stance as pepper, ginger, nutmeg, and various spices, — silk, indigo, cotton, drugs, opium and dye stuffs ; but Jamaica, and our other possessions in the West India islands, have a right to demand from the mother country a reduction of the present enormous duties levied on their produce particularly in respect to the article sugar ; the colonists of this island, in common with their brethren throughout the Western posses- sions, have ever distinguished themselves by loyalty and attachment to the mother country in times of difficulty and distress, — let that country now exercise common justice to her colonies, and they will prove, even more than they have yet done, a bulwark of maritime strength for the Empire, and a mine of commercial wealth for millions of the human race. where almost the whole of the land is in cultivation ; but in Jamaica, where there is such an abundance of uncultivated land, where vecjetation is so rapid, and where such little labour is required, the negroes will never work for the paltry wages which the poor planters can ill afford to pay them ; it will be found that they will, for the most part, prefer working for them- selves. I hope I may be mistaken.' 213 - ^ CHAPTER III. TRINIDAD. LOCALITY — GENERAL HISTORY — PHYSICAL ASPECTS — MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, HARBOURS, VOLCANOES, AND TOWNS — GULF OF PARIA — NAVIGATION — CLIMATE VEGETABLE, MINERAL, ANI> ANIMAL KINGDOMS GEOLOGY STAPLE PRODUCE — POPULATION — COMMERCE — GOVERNMENT — FINANCE VALUE OF PROPERTY, &C. 8iC. Locality. Most favourably situate for commerce, maritime strength, and political importance, at the mouths of the mighty Orinoco, as if destined by nature to form a barrier for restraining the impetuosity of its rapid tides and cui'rents,* — the picturesque and valuable island of Trinidad extends from Lat. 9.30 to 10.51 N. and Long. 60.30 to 61.20 W. separated from the province of Cumana, on the S. American continent, by the gulf of Paria; ninety miles long by fifty broad, with an area of 2,400 square miles, or 1,536,000 acres. General History. He who may be said to have dis- covered a new world for the purpose of giving a stimulus to the old, Christopher Columbus, was the discoverer of this fertile isle, on the 31st July, 1498, during his third voyage. According to some, it was named Trinidad by that wonderful man, while distant thirteen leagues S.E. from it, on account of the three mountain tops seen in that position. According to others, it was thus named, in conformity to the piety of the times, in honour of the Holy Trinity. The island was then densely peopled by Caribs of a mild disposition, of much industry, finely formed, and of a lighter colour than the aborigines or inhabitants of the other islands. These people remained unmolested until the Spaniards took possession of Trinidad in 1588, when they fell a sacrifice to the cupidity and religious bigotry of the Castilians, who, as in Jamaica, * The E. mouth of the Orinoco, or Creal Serpent, is alxuit nine :niles wide. 2\i GENERAL HISTORY OF TRINIDAD. drafted ofF to the mines those who escaped a more san- guinary death by fire or the sword ; hut a few, indeed, were saved by the apostle of the New Workl — the benign, the eloquent, the heroic Las Casas.*' The occupying Spaniards forced the Indians to cultivate, as servants, that which they once held as masters, and negroes were brought in from Africa to aid their labours. The chivalrous Sir Walter Raleigh visited Trinidad in 1595, and states that the inhabitants then cultivated excellent tobacco and sugar canes. The Spaniards, to divert his attention, described to him the El-Dorado, where the rivers were full of gold dust ; but, on Raleigh's return from exploring the Orinoco, he entered into a treaty with the Indians (then at mortal enmity with the Spaniards), marched with them, attacked and carried by assault the capital of San Josef, and put the garrison of thirty men to the sword. The English Government disowned this action of hostilities ; yet Spain paid little attention to her valuable possession, being then fully occupied with conquests on the contiguous conti- nent. The population and trade of Trinidad were subsequeutly almost extinguished,}- and, in 1783, the island contained but a very small number of inhabitants considering its long settle- ment ;]: while its sole commerce consisted in bartering cocoa and indigo for coarse cloths and agricultural implements with the smugglers from St. Eustatia. The severing of the British * Mr. Burnly, a Member of Council for Trinidad, on perusing- my manuscript, has appended to it the following' note: — 'I consider the ac- counts of the cruelties of the Spaniards to be very apocryphal. The Indians died oflf because they endured no labour, which must have been the opinion of Las Casas, who first recommended the introduction of Africans — cer- tainly not for the purpose of being- worked to death.' Unfortunately for the memory of the Spaniards of those days, their demoniac cruelties were attested by too many eye-witnesses to admit of doubt. The Indians were drafted by their tyrants from the islands to work on the main land, and the ol)ject of Las Casas in recommending the introduction of Africans, was to save the Indians from total dcstruclion. t In 16/6 Trinidad was captured by tne French, but almost immediately restored to Spain. I Viz. whites \-J(\, free ndoured 2n5, slaves 310, and Indians 2,032. NEGLECTED AT FIRST BY THE SPANIARDS. 215 provinces in N. America from the mother country, and the fear that the Castilian dominions in S. Amarica would follow the example thus set them, induced the Council of the Indies at Madrid to lend a willing ear to an enterprizing planter, named Saint Laurent, who had visited Trinidad, from Gre- nada, and thence proceeded home to enlighten the Spanish Government as to its true interests, not merely in reference to the fertility of the island, but as a commercial emporium at the mouths of the Orinoco, as also in regard to the nu- merous advantages of its geographical position in a political point of view. The ministers entered actively into the views of Saint Laurent ; many embarrassments under which Trinidad laboured with respect to its commerce and agriculture were re- moved ; an edict was passed, permitting all foreigtiers of the Roman Catholic rehgion to estabhsh themselves in the colony, and they were protected for five years from being pursued for debts incurred in the places the new colonists had quitted. In consequence of these measures, and owing to the indo- mitable energies of Laurent, as also to the disturbed state of St. Domingo, which drove numerous planters with their slaves from that island, crowds of adventurers and abundance of capital poured into Trinidad from Europe, from continental America, and from the British and French possessions in the west, bringing their industry, skill,* and perhaps ill-gotten wealth (the property of numerous creditors, who could not touch them for five years), for the benefit of their new home. The number of inhabitants, as will be seen under the head of population, rapidly increased ; and, as a mixed society, * In 1/87 j^J. (^le la Perouse established the first su^ar plantation, and in 1797 there were 159 large sugar plantations, 130 coffee farms, 60 cocoa ditto, and 103 cotton ditto, besides many small plantations, the whole yielding 7,800 hds. of sugar, 330,000 lbs. of coffee, 96,000 lbs. of cocoa, and 224,000 lbs. of cotton ; and while in 1783 a Dutch house at St. Eustatia carried on all the commerce of the colony in a vessel of 150 tons burthen, in 1802 the island employed 15,000 tons of shipping for the transport of its produce ; such have ever been the beneficial etFects of relieving the in- dustry of raan from shackle? and impediments on free intercourse with his fellows. 216 BRITISH CAPTURE OF TRINIDAD. containing the germs of so many evil passions, required - vigorous control, a strong government was formed under Don Josef Chacon, a naval captain, one of whose earliest measures was the expulsion of the dissolute monks, the prevention of the demoniacal inquisition, the granting of fertile lands to new colonists, with advances from the royal treasury to purchase cattle and implements of husbandry, and the pro- viding freedom and safety for mercantile speculations. The revolution in France, and the disturbances in her colonies, added numbers and wealth to Trinidad ; the whole face of the island was changed ; and, in four years, the magnificent capital of Port of Spain usurped the place of a few miserable fishers' palm leaved huts. Trinidad was then a sixth dependant on the government of Caraccas. On the 16th of February, 1797, Admiral Harvey, with four sail of the line, appeared off Trinidad; the Spanish Rear Admiral, Apodaca, who then anchored at Chagaramus with three first rate ships of the line and a fine frigate; instead of giving battle to Harvey — burned his ships, — re- treated to Port of Spain, reciting his rosary at the head of a band of priests — ' well, Admiral,' said Chacon, * all is lost, you have burned your ships." — * No,' said the gallant and pious Admiral, ' I have saved the image of San Jago of Com- postella, the patron of my ship and myself,' exhibiting the image of the saint ! General Sir Ralph Abercrombie, with 4,000 men, marched to Port of Spain, and, after a few dis- charges of artillery, Trinidad became a British colony. Physical Aspect. — Trinidad appears, at a distance, like an immense ridge of rocks along its whole N. front : but, on entering the Gulf of Paria, the mind is imbued with intense emotions on beholding one of the most magnificent, variegated, richly luxuriant panoramas that nature ever formed ; to the E. the waves of the mighty Orinoco dispute for the empire of the ocean with contending billows ; the lofty mountains of Cumana rise from the bosom of the horizon in stupendous ma- jesty]; and on the W. appear the cape, headlands, mountains, hills, vallies and plains of Trinidad, enamelled with eternal MAGNIFICENT ASPECT OF THE 'INDIAN PARADISE.' 2V7 verdure, and presenting a coup (Tceil of which the old world affords no parallel. The view from the block-house is mag- nificent, the deep blue waters of the gulf with the white- sailed light canoes in the distance ; to the left the splendid capital of Trinidad, in front the mountains of Cumana; and, on the right, the picturesque valley of Diego Martin, ex- tending across the island to the Atlantic, with its carefully cultivated fields and deep foliaged woods. The batteries of Fort George rise in succession from the gulf shores to the barracks, 1,200 feet above the level of the sea.* A range of slightly elevated mountains occupy the N. coast; a group of finely wooded flat or round topped hills the centre ; and a chain of fertile evergreen downs the S. coast of the island. The fecundity of the soil, its gigantic and magnificent vegetation, (compared with which the loftiest European trees are like dwarfish shrubs, and our loveliest flowers appear pale and inanimate,) its beautiful rivers, enchanting slopes, forests of palms, groves of citrons, and hedges of spices and perfumes, — its succulent roots, delicious herbs and fruits, abundant and nourishing food on the earth, in the air, and in the water; — in fine its azure skies, deep blue seas, fertile glades, and elastic atmosphere, have each and all combined to crown Trinidad with the appellation of The Indian Paradise. Puerto D'Esjmna, or Port of Spain, the capital of Trinidad, embosomed in an amphitheatre of hills, is one of the finest towns in the West Indies. The numerous buildings are of an imposing appearance, and constructed of massive cut * This fort commands the pass leading to Dieg-o Martin's vallev, and iu the event of war, a few judiciously disposed fortifications at the other en- trances to the interior of the country would render the island impregnable. The entrenchments are elevated along several ridges and round backed divi- sions, with a variety of surface : some part of whichare sufficiently flat for the erection of military works, and on the best of these, at the elevation of 1000 feet, is the Blockhouse barracks, calculated for 200men. Fort George is inac- cessible from behind, and not commanded by any hill in its neighbourhood, it is admirably fortified by batteries that are disposed, as it were, along th(? two sides of an acute angled triangle terminating on a point at the Block- house redoubt, each commands the other, according to the situation in which they arc placed. 218 PORT OF SPAIN. — MOUNTAINS, stone. No houses are allowed to be erected of wood, or in- dependent of a prescribed form : the streets are wide, long, (shaded with trees), and laid out in parallel lines from the land to the sea, intersected, but not intercepted by cross streets, thus catching every breeze that blows ; and as-inmost tropical countries, there is a delightful embowered public walk. Among the principal buildings the Protestant church stands conspicuously and beautifully situate, with a large enclosed lawn in front, surrounded on two sides by the best houses of the capital ; the interior of the church is superb, and at the same time elegant, its sweeping roof and aisless sides being variegated with the various rich woods of the island, tastefully arranged ; there is also a splendid Roman Catholic church, and well situate ; and an extensive market-place, with market- house and shambles, all built since the burning of the town in 1808, of handsome cut stone. The Port of Spain is divided into barrios or districts, each under the superintendance of alcaldes or magistrates and officers, who are responsible for the cleanliness of the streets, for the regulating and order of the markets, and for the due execution of the law in their several divisions ; hence the policy and good order established in the capital is admirable. The St. James' barracks for the accommodation of six hundred men are substantially, and I may add, beautifully erected, on a fine plain, about a mile from the capital. Mountains. The highest range of land (about 3,000 feet) is to the N. near the sea ; in the centre of the isle is a less elevated group of mountains, to the S. a series of lovely hills and mounds appear in delightful contrast to the northern shore ; and as on the contiguous coast of Cumana, the chain of mountains in the N. of Trinidad runs E. and W, Las Cuevas has a double summit, with a magnificent platform in the centre, from which there is a view of the ocean E. and W. ; four delightful vallics, watered by numerous rivulets, add beauty to this charmhig landscape. Rivers. On the W. coast the principal navigable streams arc the Cayo)ii, Chaifucoias. Borrajiconcs, CGi/rrt, Giiar((carn, RIVERS, HARBOURS, AND BAYS OF TRINIDAD. 219 and Sissaria ; the first is navigable from its mouth in the gulph, to its junction with the Aripo,*' (also navigable) a dis- tance of six leagues ; the Guanaba, like the Arijjo, flows into the Caroni, but has less water ; there are many other streams on the W. coast, which being navigable for small trading vessels, afford great facilities for the cultivation of land, and the transport of its produce. The N. and E. coasts are well furnished with rivers and rivulets of pure and crystalline water; the principal on the E. coast are the Rio Grande, Oropuclie, and Nariva, (called by the Creoles Mitan, from its flowing through a grove of cocoa trees). This fatter has been sailed up seven and a half leagues, and found navigable for a two hundred and fifty ton ship, at less than a league from its source. Guatavo, to windward of the island, is large, but not navigable to any great extent, for more than small boats ; further S. is the fine river Moruga,j; while in every direction limpid brooks run murmuring over pebbly beds to the ocean, through lofty forests and the most picturesque scenery. Harbours and Bays. The gulf of Paria, formed by the W. shore of Trinidad, and the opposite coast of Cumana (which is thirty leagues long and fifteen ditto from N. to S.), may be said to form one vast harbour, as ships may anchor all over the gulf in from three to six fathom water, on gravel and mud soundings. The principal ports are, first, the har- bour of Port Royal, C/iagarmnus, on the N. W. peninsula of the island, at the entrance of the N. mouth, three leagues W. of Port of Spain, and comprehending a space of about seventy square miles ; it is esteemed the best and safest port * It lias been proposed to cut a canal between tlie Aripo and the Oro- puche, which discharges itself on the E. coast of the island, where the navigation is difficult and the anchorage insecure, when the winds are northerly or easterly; thus a safe communication would be established between the two coasts of Trinidad, and be the means of bringing into cul- tivation a great quantity of fertile land. t The rivers on the E. coast, especially that of Moruga, have abundance of excellent oysters attached to the stems and branches of the Mangrove bushes, as I found them on the shores of Africa, where our sailors used to say it WHS the first time they ever saw xuc/i fnnt on trees. 220 THE BOCAS OR ENTPvANCES TO THE in the island, is capable of receiving the largest ships of war, has from four to forty fathoms soundings of gravel and mud, or ouze, with bold and steep northern shores. Port of Spain, on the W. coast, which gives its name to the capital, is the next best harbour, and has one of the most extensive bays in the world ; the surrounding fortified heights completely command the town, and a fine stone quay, running several hundred yards into the sea, has a strong battery at its extremity. All the W. coast is a series of bays where vessels may anchor in safety at all times. The Ca- reenage, not having more than two to four fathoms, is only * fit for small vessels; and Gasper Grande is an islet within the mouths, where the Spanish ships of war were wont to anchor under the safeguard of a battery intended for the protection of the passage. The N. and E. coasts are not equally well furnished with harbours and roadsteads, which is the more to be regretted, as the wind blows for three-fourths of the year from the east and north. The principal ports to the N. are Maqueribe and Las Cuevas, (where fort Abercrombie is situate) ; to the N. E. are the ports of Rio Grande, Toco, and Cumana ; on the E. is Balandra Bay, or Boat Island, where safe anchorage may at all times be found for small vessels; further E. are Guiascreek and Mayaro Bay; the safest port on the E. coast is Guaiguaire, from its being sheltered by a point of land against E. winds, and its en- trance to the S. from which tlic winds are neither frequent nor violent.* ♦ The Bocds, or mouths of the N. entrances of the gulf of Paria, are four — Boca Grande, or great channel ; Boon de Nav'ws, or ships' channel ; Buca \uevos, or egg, or umbrella, channel (from the appearance of a re- markable tree, growhig upon a rock on the lee side, much resembling an umbrella) ; and the Boca de Monas, or apes' channel. In sailing for the Port of Spain, vessels generally pass through one of these passages into the gulf of Paria ; and, as the currents must be particularly attended to, and the navigation is very intricate, the following sailing instructions are subjoined from the Trinidad Almanac for 1832 : — INSTRUCTIONS FOR VESSELS COMING TO TRINIDAD. To run ituwn the Korth Shore from Point Galere to the Buca.s. After passing Toco Bay, haul in for the land and run down the Coast about one mile dis- GULF OF PARIA — SAILING DIRECTIONS. 221 Geology. Trinidad, as viewed from the Gulf of Paria, presents an alluvial country in an active state of formation ; tant from the shore ; you will find anchorage in regular soundings (as laid down in Captain Columbine's Chart) all along the coast until you come abreast of the Bocas ; when the water becomes very bold and no safe anchorage, except on the North side of the island of Huevos, distance about half a mile. The soundings in and about the Bocas are also cor- rectly laid down in Captain Columbine's Chart, with which every vessel should be provided. Should the current be running to leeward and the wind light, you should anchor and wait a favourable change, to push at once through the Bocas. By not anchoring in such cases, vessels are frequently drifted to leeward altogether, or so far in the offing, that when the current changes and a favourable breeze springs up, they are unable to take advantage of them to get at once through the Bocas, being so far off it takes nearly the whole day to re- gain their lost ground, and by the time they beat up abreast of the Bocas again, the breeze dies away, the current sits out, and away they drift to leeward as before, and are frequently baffled in this way, backwards and forwards for days together. To this cause is principally to be attributed the frequent occurrence of vessels remaining so long outside without being able to get into the Gulph of Paria. Strangers are apt to keep out too far from the land in running down this coast. The currents are very irregular outside, and about the Bocas, and much stronger during the wet season than at any other time of the year, particularly at the full and change. The winds prevail from the Northward duringthe months of November, December, January, and February; from the East in March, April, May, and June; calm •and variable in July, August, September, and October, when they are generally southerly. The most favourable time for entering the Bocas is about two hours after the tide begins to flow, and for going out, one hour after ebb commences. Vessels in want of water can be supplied at Toco, Point Sans Souci, Rio Grand, Petit Matelot, Rio Paria, Escuvas, Maraccas Bay, Chute d'Eau, and Macaripe. DIRECTIONS FOR ENTERING THE BOCAS, AND NAVIGATION OF THE GULF OF PARIA. BOCA GRAXDE. The current sets very strongly from the S. E. upon the southern and eastern coast of the island, and is particularly rapid in the stiait between the southern coast and the Continent, through which it sets into the Gulph of Paria ; another current sets along the northern coast, from the eastward in a W.by S. direction, and having a tendency to the southward on the S. E. coast of Cumana or Paria. The effects of these currents is an accumulation of water, which seeks an escape to the northward from the Gulph of Paria, and which must naturally be increased in the rainy seasons by the influx from the surrounding lands. As the water seeks its escape through the Bocas to the northward, it meets the westerly current from the north-eastward, which so far opposes it as to cause perpetual agitation of the sea. It was from this circumstance that Columbus called these passages Bocas del Dragon, or Dragon's Mouth. Shipping bound for the Port generally run down to the northward of the Island, with the advantage of wind and current, for the Boca Grande, or Dragon's Mouth, passing to the westward of the Isle of Chacachacareo. This passage is more than five miles broad, with a depth of not less than fifty fathoms. In entering, you must be very cautious not to get too far to leeward, for the current may be so strong as to render it impossible for you to gain the Port. It is therefore recommended that you haul round the western side of Chacacha- careo, not however within the distance of a mile, from the south-westernmost land. Having passed the rock laid down on the Chart, make a long board to the S. E., and then, as the wind permits, to the N. E. for the road, wherein you may anchor at pleasure, in 3, 4, oi 5 fathoms, in good holding ground. The above-mentioned Rock, laid down in the Chart to the S. W. of Chacachacareo, is about forty yards in circumference, and is said to have only nine feet water over it on the shoalest 222 NAUTICAL INSTRIUTIONS Foil N WKiATOKS. the primitive foundations of the land arranged in a form nearly semilunar, incline as with outstretched arms to receive part at low water. On the morning of the 25th of June, I8O9, the ship Samuel, Captain SuGOREE, of London, drawing 17 feet water, struck upon it, and remained fast for several hours. While this ship was agrround, two others passed, one on each side, without touching:, although not 25 fathoms distant : the water beiufr very deep all round. The bearings, by compass, from the Ship were, Chacachacareo, southwest Point, E. N. E. ; El Plato, or Goose Island, S.W. by W. i W. -, the south-east Point of Cumana, or Paria, \V. by S. The cur- rent was setting verj- strongly from the southward, with light variable winds. BOCA DK NAVIOS. OR SHIp's PASSAGE. The Boca de Navios, or Ships' Passage, is considered as the best channel for Ships sailing outwards. It is about one mile and a half broad, and steep on each side. Here, as in the Boca Grande it is proper to keep the eastern land on board. To Ships which may attempt this passage from the northward, the wind wiU be favourable until within the head, but flaws from the high land may then be expected. BOCA HUEVOS. Boca Hiievos has been considered by many the best, shortest, and most convenient pas. sage for ships bound inwards ; but experience has proved the contrary. It is known to be a very dangerous passage for large vessels. The high landon the Monos side causes frequent sudden flaws, succeeded by almost instantaneous calms ; the current sits strong over upon the windward shore, drawing you at the same time into a small Bay on the north-west end of Monos, full of sunken rocks, where the Xaparima was lost. The indraft into this Bay is very extraordinary and rapid : so much so, as to have caused its being named by the fisher- men " The Devil's Hole." Small vessels acquainted with this place may anchor in front of the Bay, in 10 to 15 fathoms water ; foul bottom ; but large class of vessels have not suf- ficient room to swim clear of the rocks. Vessels attempting this channel should be careful to keep the lee shore aboard, as less dangerous and more likely to carry a breeze through. This passage should never be attempted with a scant wind. BOCA MOVOS, OR APES' PASSAGE. This Boca is next to Trinidad ; the passage is narrow and dangerous in several places, particularly at the outer entrance, where there is a sunken rock extending from the South side of the small Island in this channel, towards the Island of Monos, upon which are breakers, yet there is ground all the way through, in which vessels may anchor in 25 to 30 fathoms ; the currents are here strong and irregular, and the wind generally scant, coming in flaws down the vallies. This passage is recommended for vessels under 50 tons. S/*i7> Calypso, Wednesday I3th December, 1826. ' Approached the Grand Bocas at 6 o'clock, p. m. with a fair wind, but on entering at eight the breeze died away, and the ship drifted back with the current. The calm continued till nine next morning, when a breeze sprung up which enabled her to stand in till ten when it again became calm, but the ship was carried through by the current. At 11 o'clock Captain M'Arthi'r discovered on thestarboard side aCoral Rock, which on sounding proved to have 15 feet water over it. He then lowered the jolly boat and found the Rock to be nearly half a, mile in circumference, having only nine feet water over it on the shoalest part. Captaia M'Artuir with a view that measures may be taken to have a permanent mark placed over the Rock, has left a buoy on the spot.* It bore E. by N. per compass from the innermost point of the Bocas. The following further directions will be found deserving of attention ; and I subjoin them because I wish the History of the British Colonies to be a useful work to every captain of a ship or navigator. Mr. Norrie says that if the navigator — Should enter by the Boca Grande, it will be highly requisite that he should remember and * This buoy has since, however, been washed away. CURRENTS AND ANCHORAGES IN THE GULF. 223 into their bosoms the greater portion of the alluvies from the mouths of the mighty Orinoco ; the currents, deeply charged g-nard ag-ainst the effect of the current descrihert (p. 221 ; for otherwise he will find himself driven too far to leeward, and have grreat difficulty in beating up for the port ; it will, therefore, be advisable, in taking this passage, to haul immediately round the /.s/nni Cha. cachacarreo, giving its S. W. part a berth of a good mile, and having passed the Diamond Rock, make a long board to the S. eastward, then, should the wind permit, steer north- easterly for the road. Or in entering by either of the Boen*, so soon as you have passed through, and are to the southward of them, you should haul by the wind on the larboard tack, both to get away from the Bocas, and to near the coast of Trinidad ; follow this track while the flood tide lasts, and take the starboard tack fo soon as the ebb begins ; by which means you will either fetch the anchorage, or approach very near to it. Some persons consider it preferable, after they have entered the Gti!f, to work tack and tack, especially should the larboard tack be not favourable, but it should be remembered, that the currents always run strongest opposite and near to the straits ; therefore beginning to tack too much within the vicinity of the Bocas, the ebb tide will endanger their being forced out again, or to prevent that, they wUl be compelled to anchor; and should neither of these events take place, they will meet the ebb, which wiil in all probability hinder their reaching Port Spain. On the contrary, by prolonging their track well into the Gulf, even to the parelle! of Mount Xaparima, if necessary, they there will find the ebb tide most advan- tageous for the starboard tack, so that they may either pi oportion their course, so as to reach the anchorage, or may gain it bymakinsa short tack. Whenever it happens to be a calm, or the wind so light that you are unable to gain any thinj, then come to with your kedge, and that will be sufficient to hold you against the strength of the tide. You should avoid usin? your large anchors, if possible, because they sink so deep, you will have difficulty to pur. chasing them again. Or, having safely cleared the JBoeos, and got well within the Gul/of Porta, you will perceive St. David's Tower, standing above the Town of Spain, come open to the southward of the Island of Caspar Grande ; this will be visible 4 or 5 leagues ; it is built of white stone, and stands in the interior of t!ie fortifications upon Ahercromhifs Heights ; in sailiiis up, as you advance, with the tower E. by \. you will see the forts 6n Caspar Grande and Point Gorda, which protect the careenage and the anchorage in Cliaguaramus Harbour, after which the shipping off the town will become visible. In Puerto d'Espagne you may anchor to the S. westward of the town, in 5 or 4 fathoms water, agreeable to the size of your vessel, and moor with your bowers N. W. and S. E., having a stream cable and anchor out astern. It is high water at Puerto d'Espagne at half-past four, full and change, and spring tides rise 6 and 7 feet. Should a vessel happen to drive from her anchors, she will go on soft ground, and receive no damage; the best place to run aground is in the N. W. part of the bay. The town has a stone jetty, and is defended by batteries : a white half-moon battery forms a good mark for the bay, and is visible a long way off; large ships should bring this battery to bear N. N. E. All the western coast of Trinidad is low, except the Mount Xaparima, which forms a con . spicuous object, being 602 feet above the level of the sea; this appears round, and may be seen in clear weather full lo leagues off. The adjacent sliores of the continent to the west- ward are low, swampy, and full of rivulets ; the most considerable river is that of GaaW- peche, which is navigable for the largest schooners, and by which the commerce of the interior of Cumuna is principally carried on. There are many places on the western coast of Trinidad where you may obtain fresh ■water ; and from Point Icaque, or Ycacos, to Point Breu, or Pitch Point, the flood tide sets to the southward and westward, and the ebb to the northward and eastward. From Point Brea, to Pnerto d'Espagne it follows the diiection of the land, with very little difference, the flood setting south, and the ebb north. The best anchorages, on the northens shores of Trinidad, are in the bays of Toco, Bio 221 GEOLOGY OF TRINIDAD. with this alluvial soil, drive along the cliffy sides of the nor- thern ridge and southern shores, (from which they borrow in Grande, Piinta de Chuparas, Las Cuevas, Marncas, and to tbe leeward of Marabaral, in which water may be obtained, there being a beach, wliich renders the acquisition easy. All along^ the whole coast, and for the distance of three leagues outside, the stream runs north-east- ward, or rather east, with the ebb tide, and S. W. with the flood, but beyond those limits its general tendency is S. W. ; and the same direction prevails between Trinidad and Tobago, only the ebb is less rapid than tbe flood. Although from the parallel of the middle of Tobrign, the island of Tobago may easily be distinguished in clear weather, yet you will not be able to see Point Galera at the distance of more than three leagues, on account of its being so much lower than the coast to the wcstwcird, and its projecting out from the main land ; but in coming from the eastward the mountains at the back of the Point will be visible 11 or 12 leagues. All the eastern coast, Southward from Salibia to Point Galiote, is muchlower, except near Point Manzinilla, whence four mountains rise to the W. S. W., which may be seen 8 or 9 leagues oflf ; this is the be- ginning of the middle ridge of hills, and here named the Barrancas of Manzinilla ; here also is the entrance to the River Le Brunche, from whence the canal is intended to be made to join the River Caroni. To the southward is Guuiaro Point, which may readily be known by its stretching out from the coast to seaward, and by the height 6i the tongue that forms it ; from hence there are many plantations of cocoa, cotton, coflfee, and sugar ; a little northward of the Point is a landing-place, and here the River Guataro, or Ortoire empties itself into tbe sea, after having sent some branches to the northward, which are navigated by canoes and small craft. Poi«- sulphureous smell pervades tlie ground to the (iislauce of eight or teu miles from the lake, and is felt on approaching the shore. EXTRAORDINARY PITCH LAKE. 233 pying the highest part of the point of land which shelves into the sea, from which it is separated by a margin of wood ; the variety and extraordinary mobility of this phe- nomenon is very remarkable, groups of beautiful shrubs and flowers, tufts of wild pine apples and aloes, swarms of mag- nificent butterflies and brilliant humming birds enliven a scene, which would be an earthly representation of Tartarus without them. AVith regard to mobility, where a small islet has been seen on an evening, a gulf is found on the following morning, and, on another part of the lake, a pitch islet has sprung up to be in its turn adorned with the most luxuriant vegetation, and then again engulphed !* The usual consistence and appearance of the asphaltum, (except in hot weather, when it is actually liquid an inch deep,) is that of pit coal, but of a greyish colour, melting like sealing wax; ductile by a gentle heat, and, when mixed with grease, oil, or common pitch, acquiring fluidity, and well adapted for pi'eserving the bottoms of ships against the destructive effects of the worm termed the teredo navalis. Sometimes the As- phaltum is found jet black and hard, breaking into a dull conchoidal fractvu-e, but, in general, it may be readily cut, when its interior appears oily and vesicular. Deep crevices or funnels, inclining to a conic form, and sometimes six feet deep, are found in various parts of the asphaltinn, (pitch), filled with excellent limpid running water, and often containing a great quantity of mullet and small fish.-j- The bottoms of some of these canals are so liquid that marked poles thrust in disappear, and have been found a few days after on the sea-shore ! Pieces, of what was once wood, are found completely changed into bitumen; and the trunk of a large tree, on being sawn, was entirely impregnated Vv ith petreolum ; where * Near Cape La Brea, to the S. W. (the place where this lake is) Capt. Mallet observed a gulf or vortex, which, in stormy weather, gushes out, raising the water five or six feet, and covering the surface, for a consider- able space with the bituminous substance. A similar gulf is said to be on the E. coast, at the bay of ftlayaro. t Alligators arc said to have been seen in liicsc extraordinary chasms. 234 SINGULAR VIEW AROUND THE PITCH LAKE. the petreolum mixes with the earth it tends greatly to fertiUze it, and the finest fruits in the colony come from districts bordering on this singular lake ; the pine apples, in particular, being less fibrous, larger, more aromatic, and of a deeper golden colour than are to be had any where else. A very intelligent and enterprising traveller, (to whom the author is indebted for many valuable observations,) Captain Sir J. E. Alexander, furnishes the following graphic account of his observations on this extraordinary phenomenon. ' The western shore of the island, for about twenty miles, is quite flat, and richly wooded ; and though only one or two houses are perceptible from the sea, the interior is well cul- tivated, and several small rivers, which empty themselves into the Gulf of Paria, afford great facility for the transport of sugar to ships that anchor off their embouchures. As Na- parema is approached, and the singular mountain, (at the foot of which San Fernandez is situated,) is plainly distin- guished, the shore assumes a more smiling aspect ; here, one sees a noble forest, there, a sheet of bright green, points out a cane field. Cocoa nuts and palm trees are sprinkled over the landscape, and now and then a well built house, close to the water's edge, appears, with a verdant lawn extending from it to the sea, and the ground sometimes broken into sinuosities, and then slightly undulating. The beauty of this part of Trinidad is very great, though, from some un- drained swamps, poisonous malaria exhales. At Point La Brea are seen masses of pitch, which look like black rocks among the foliage. At the small hamlet of La Braye, a con- siderable extent of coast is covered with pitch, which runs a long way out to sea, and forms a bank under w\ater. The pitch lake is situated on the side of a hill, eighty feet above the level of the sea, from which it is distant three quarters of a mile ; a gradual ascent leads to it, which is covered with pitch in a hard state, and trees and vegetation flourish upon it. The road leading to the lake runs through a wood, and, on emerging from it, the spectator stands on the borders of what at the first glance appears to be a lake, containing many wooded islets, but which, on a second examination, proves to USES OF THE TRINIDAD PITCH OR ASPHALTUM. 235 be a sheet of asphaltum, intersected throughout by crevices three or four feet deep and full of water. The pitch at the sides of the lake is perfectly hard and cold, but as one walks towards the middle with the shoes off in order to wade through the water, the heat gradually increases, the pitch becomes softer and softer, until at last it is seen boiling up in a liquid state, and the soles of the feet become so heated that it is necessary to dance up and down in the most ridi- culous manner. The air is then strongly impregnated with bitumen and sulphur, and the impression of the feet is left upon the face of the pitch. During the rainy season it is possible to walk over the whole lake nearly, but in the hot season a great part is not to be approached. Although several attempts have been made to ascertain the depth of the pitch, no bottom has ever been found. The lake is about a mile and half in circumference ; and not the least extraordinary circumstance is, that it should contain eight or ten small islands, on which trees are growing close to the boiling pitch. In standing still on the lake near the centre the surface gradually sinks, forming a sort of bowl as it were, and when the shoulders become level ynth the lake it is high time to get out. Some time ago a ship of war landed casks to fill with the pitch, for the purpose of transporting it to England ; the casks were rolled on the lake, and the hands commenced filling, but a piratical craft appearing in the offing, the frigate, with all hands, went in chase ; on returning to the lake all the casks had sunk and disappeared.* There is. a metallic substance thrown up by the pitch fountains, much * I am indebted to Major-General Sir Lewis Grant, late Governor of Trinidad, for the following curious fact : — ' The pitch of the lake has been adopted for the improvement of the roads, particularly in the fertile district of Naparima, where it was brought for the purpose from La Brea. In the wet season the roads at Naparima are almost impassable in those parts where there has been no application of the pitch ; but where the pitch has been applied, which is the case for several miles in North Naparima, there is a hard surface formed, which makes transport comparatively easy, both from the support afforded and from the little friction of the hardened pitch.— L. G,' [R. Montgomery Martin.] 236 CLIMATE OF TRINIDAD — RAINS. resembling copper ore. Science is at a loss to account for this extraordinary phenomenon, for the lake does not seem to occupy the mouth of an exhausted crater, neither is the hill on which it is situated of volcanic origin, for its basis is clay. The flow of pitch from the lake has been immense, the whole country round, except near the Bay of Grappo, which is protected by a hill, being covered with it, and it seems singular that no eruption has taken place within the memory of man, although the principle of motion still exists in the centre of the lake. The appearance of the pitch which had hardened is as if the whole surface had boiled up in large bubbles, and then suddenly cooled ; but where the asphaltum is still liquid, the surface is perfectly smooth. Many experi- ments have been made to ascertain whether the pitch could be applied to any useful purpose. Admiral Cochrane sent two ship loads of it to England, but, after a variety of experiments, it was found necessary, in order to render it fit for use, to mix such a quantity of oil with it that the expense of oil alone ex- ceeded the price of pitch in England. Another attempt was made by a company, styled the Pitch Company, who sent out an agent from England, but finding Admiral Cochrane had failed, and feeling convinced any further attempt would be useless, he let the matter drop. Climate. The dry and rainy seasons into which the tropical year is distinguished is more marked in Trinidad than in the Antilles. The dry season commences with the month of December, and ends with that of May, the E. N. E. and N. winds then become less cool; the heat increases and is at its height by the end of June, storms commence and augment in frequency and violence during August and September, and in October they occur almost daily, accom- panied by torrents of rain ; there is seldom any fall of rain during the night, but a heavy shower without wind usually precedes sun-rise by half an hour during the season. Hurri- canes are unknown in Trinidad or Tobago. The hygrometer varies much in different seasons ; during the rainy season it is usually between 85 and 90, — in the PURE AND WHOLESOME ATMOSPHERE. 237 spring between 36 and 38 in the day, and about 50 at niglit ; on an average there falls about sixty-two inches of water during the winter, and about ten inches (including the heavy dews, which may be estimated at six inches) during the spring. The October rains are very gentle ; in November they are less frequent and more slight ; and from the end of December to the beginning of June of some years, there does not fall a drop of rain during the day : as the island has become cleared, the quantity of rain falling has diminished. During even the hot and stormy season the thermometer rarely stands at Port of S^pain before sun-rise so high as 74 (and in the country occasionally as low as 68 ;*) from sun- rise to sun-set 84 to 86, falling in the evening to 82 or 80 ; in August and September, when the air is saturated with moisture, the mercury rises sometimes to 90 — rarely above that height. When during the winter there is wind with the rain the mornings are less hot, as are also the evenings, when the rain has been preceded by thunder during the day ; but the temperature of the whole island varies with the elevation above the sea and the aspect of the place, especially in spring, when the thermometer descends to 60, and sometimes to 50, in places of moderate elevation; on the whole it is less moist than Guyana, and not so dry as Cumana, and being an island, the winds are more constant, and the atmosphere therefore more frequently renovated ; the vallies of Santa Anna, of Maraval, Diego Martin, Aricagua, and the heights of St. Joseph, to the N. W., as also the vallies on the N. coast, enjoy a- mild temperature, and their inhabitants breathe during nearly the whole year a fresh, pure, and very elastic air, by reason of the simultaneous action of the evaporation of rains, dews and winds, on the well-known eastern prin- ciple, by which liquids are cooled, and even ice formed, by solar evaporation or exposure to a current of air. The bene- ficial and abundant dews (arising from the numerous rivers of the island and surrounding ocean) cool and invigorate the * From the coolness of the night, it is the ordinary custom to have a blanket folded up at the foot of the bed to draw up when necessary, during a residence in the country or in the hisfh land^. 238 VEGETABLE KINGDOM OF TRINIDAD — CACOA, &C. atmosphere, and give a vigorous luxuriance to the vegetation of an isle, which, were it otherwise, would be nearly barren. The following table affords a Meteorological Register of Port of Spain : — MONTHS. THERM. WINDS. OBSERVATIONS. January . . 81 to 72 E. E.N.E. andE.S.E. Cloudy and rainy. February. . 83 - 70 E. and E.N.E. Ditto, nights dewy. March 84 - 71 Ditto Fine, dry and pleasant. April .... 84 - 73 E.N.E. Invigorating breezes. May 81 - 74 S.E. E N.E. Strong ditto, some thunder. June .... 82 - 74 E.S.E. and E.N.E. Close and rainy, ditto. July 84 - 74 E.N.E. Stormy, lightning, rainy. Au crust . . 85 - 74 E.S.E. Squally, ditto. September 86 - 72 E.S.E. Heavy rains, thund. & lightn. October . . 84 - 73 E.S.E. Strong breezes. November 85 - 73 E. and E.N.E. Fine, hot occasionally. December S2 - 71 E. and E.N.E. Cool, sometimes chilly. Vegetable Kingdom. The Vegetation of Trinidad is of the same splendid character as that found on the main land. Botanists specify on the Island aspen rush, or Cyperus haspan — Commelina hexandra panax chrysophilla — Vitex Capitata, Jnsticia secunda solanum h'lrtum, cestrmn latifoliuni, Alla- manda cathartica, Macroeneum cocchieum, frcBlichia panicu- lata, spaihodea corymhosa, rohinia ruhiginosa Itipinis villosis, glycine p'lcta, Bigonia humilis, taberncsmontana iindulata, Za- pogomea tomentosa, croton gossyjjifolium, tragia corniculata , toutalca scandens, Sfc. ^*c. The forests contain the finest wood for ship building and for ornamental purposes, amongst which the red cedar, and a great variety of palms are con- spicuous. The nutmeg, cinnamon and clove, have been in- troduced into the island and flourish, particularly the former. The cacao, or cocoa, (whence the delicious thea broma, or divine beverage is made) is indigenous to the new world ; in Mexico, the beans served, even in Humboldt's time, for small coin, as coiuies do in India — six beans being equivalent to one halfpenny English ; the introduction of this wholesome and delightful beverage into the old world is due to the monks, who have ever been great lovers of good things ; and FRUITS AND VEGETABLES IN SEASON. 239 the Castilians, whether in America or Spain, soon learned to consider chocolate a necessary of life, — indeed, it was seriously disputed for sometime among the churchmen of Rome whether it were lawful to consume so nourishing a beverage on a fast day; but the inchnations of the palate naturally prevailed over scruples of conscience, and it was even finally served to the Creole ladies by their slaves in the chapels of Mexico during divine service. The cocoa tree somewhat resembles that producing the English cherry, fifteen feet in height, delighting in a new and productive soil near the margin of a river, and requiring shelter from strong sunshine or vio- lent winds, for which purpose the plantain trees, Musa Para- disiaca, or coral bean tree, Erythrina, (which the Spaniards C'dW Madre di Cacao) are planted between every second row, giving a most luxuriant appearance to a plantation, the long bare stems of tropical trees being strongly contrasted with the rich green of the cacaos below, and here and there bril- liant and burning with the golden foliage of the Bois immortel, a lofty umbrageous tree, which in the flowering season is covered with clusters of scarlet blossoms of exceeding bright- ness, and shining like brilliant velvet in the sun-rays ; while the lovely butterfly plant (so called from its perfect similitude to the insect) fluttering on its almost invisible stalk, adds beauty and variety to the prospect. The cultivation of cacao is rapidly extending, and as Euro- peans are quite adequate to the very trifling degree of labour required for a plantation, it is to be hoped that emigration from Great Britain will take place to the beautiful isle,* where this nourishing product is indigenous to the soil. The following calendar of the fruits of Trinidad for the year, will demonstrate the variety of delicious food which this valuable colony yields. January produces sappidilloes, po- megranates, sour-sops, plantains, bananas, papas, or papaws. The vegetables are — okros, capsicums of all kinds, which in- * The annual proJucticn of cocoa in Trinidad is about 1,500,000 lbs. weight. t M. De la Barrere discovered 240 plants in Trinidad, of which he could not discern any thing like them in the Antilles. 240 ZOOI-OGY OF TRINIDAD. deed are common every month in the year; cocoa nuts, which are seldom used but for cakes and puddings, ground down ; pigeon, or Angola peas, sweet potatoes, yams of dif- ferent sorts, and tanias. February, the vegetable called chicon, or christophini comesan. March, grenadilloes are added to the former list. April, Java plums, mangoes, mamme sapoetas, pines of several varieties, the Otaheitan gooseberry, Jamaica plums, cerasees, and bread fniit. May, water-lemons, and cashew apples. June is much the same in her produc- tions ; pigeon peas are now nearly out of season. In July the avacado pear comes in ; it is also known by the name of the alhgator pear, or subaltern's butter, from its inside re- sembling very yellow fresh butter, both in consistence and colour. In August the only new fruit is the yellow hog plum ; the other fruits in season are the mamme sapoetas and avacado pears. September produces sugar and custard apples, sea- side grapes, and Portuguese yams. The fruits and vegetables of October are nearly the same as September ; and the only difference in November is the bread-fruit being ripe again. December brings in guavas, and that most excellentproduction, sorrel. This plant has a succulent stalk, and grows from three to four feet high. There is a blossom, not unlike the common English columbine ; there are two varieties, white and red ; the blossoms when slightly fermented, produce a delightful beverage, or, stewed with sugar, make tarts or jam. All the orange and lemon tribe, shaddocks, and forbidden fruit, plan- tains, and bananas, may be had every month in the year, but they abound most from April to September. JMountain cabl)age is always in season, and is a most delicious vegetable. Zoology. As in the vegetable, so in the animal kingdom, there is a great resemblance between Trinidad and the Con- tinent, both being equally free from large or destructive animals, such as the elephant, lion, and tiger. Two species of small deer {cervus Americamis) and the mangrove stag, are found in Trinidad, but not in Tobago. The paca, or lapo, of Trinidad, is a singular animal ; it is rather larger than a hare, MONKEYS — ICHTHYOLOGY. 241 is extremely handsome, cleanly, and easily domesticated ; from birth to four or six months, the hair, naturally of a deep red, is spotted with white, which spots then disappear ; it is am- phibious, dives under water when hunted, and remains there like the otter several minutes ; — the flesh is excellent food. Opossums are numerous ; the females have all the membra- nous pouch, like the kangaroo, for depositing the young. (It is singular that New Holland and America should have the marsupial animals peculiar to them.) The armadilloes, re- markable for their laminated shell, are numerous, and baked in their scaly coats are a good treat. A species of porcupine, (the hystrix lyrehensilis of Linnaeus) ; two species of lizard, termed the Guana and Dragon ; two species of ant bears ; the lazy sloth ; the musk, and crab-swallowing rat ; the tiger-cat ; the peccary (wild American hog) ; water-dog (didelphis Phi- landar) ; and a variety of monkeys,* are found in Trinidad. Ichthyology, &c. Among the great variety of fish on the shores of Trinidad, one of the most remarkable is the squahts zygcBiia, measuring twelve feet in length, and thick in pro- portion, after the shape of the blue shark, and with a mouth like the latter, armed with a triple row of formidable teeth ; the eyes are large and terrifying, and the head has the shape of a hammer. Another equally formidable fish is shaped somewhat like a cod, and esteemed excellent eating in the colony, although they have been found with part of a negro in die maw. M. Levaysse states, that the sea cow {trichecus fnenati) is often found in pairs, with their young, browzing on the marine plants in the cocoa nut-groves ; their weight is about 1,200 lbs. the flesh tasting hke that of the hog, eaten fresh and salted, while the fat forms excellent lard. * M. Lavaysse assures us that he has seen a tribe of monkies in Trinidad who have a great aversion to water ; — if obliged to cross a narrow stream, they climb a tree near the bank, and form a chain by hanging from the tails of each other j the whole string of animals then swing backwards and forwards until the lowest, to whom the post of honour has been assigned, alights on the opposite bank, and pulls over, by the aid of the " tail," his com- panions on the tree and bank ; this singular operation is carried on amidst terrible howling, accompanied \vith the most friglitful cries aad grimaces, VOL. II. R 242 ORNITHOLOGY OF TRINIDAD. Land tortoises of various kinds are abundant, the flesh is dehcate and very nourishing ; the savannahs (marshes, in the wet season) abound with a great variety of marine birds,* grey partridges, water-hens, flamingoes, and white woodcocks, of dehcious flavour ; wild ducks are innumerable ; one species resembles the East India duck, another the European, and the third is very small, with a beautiful plumage, including blue, rose-coloured, yellow and white, with a brilliant gold- coloured star on the forehead of about an inch in diameter ; it is called Ouikihi. The brown pelican, scarlet-necked vul- ture, the lancet bat, or vampyre, the frigate bird, &c. are numerous : parrots and parroquets are in great variety, and of exceeding beauty ; the green and gold humming-bird has long been celebrated for its plumage ; and the doves and wild pigeons are found of every species. Those magnificent birds termed Haccos, are found at Trinidad, but not at Tobago. Staple Produce. Previous to 1783 the whole produce of Trinidad was a .very small quantity of cocoa, vanilla, indigo, arnotto, cotton and maise, not more than sufficient to employ a small schooner two or three times a year for its conveyance to St. Eustatia. In 1787 the first sugar plantation was formed, and in 1802 the cultivation and produce of some of the principal articles was as follows: — 192 sugar plantations yielding 15,461 hogsheads;* 128 coffee ditto, 358,660 lbs. ; 57 cocoa ditto, 97,000 lbs. ; 101 cotton ditto, 263,000 lbs. ; em- ploying shipping annually to the amount of 15,000 tons. In 1807 there were exported to England, British America, and to the United States, 18,235 hogsheads of sugar, or 21,234,600 lbs.; 460,000 gallons of rum ; and 100,000 gallons of syrup ; there were made besides in the same year,500,0001bs, of coffee; 355,000 lbs. of cocoa, and 800,000 lbs. of cotton. * The Gulf of Paria, near the Bocas, is full of small rocky islets, some of which contain caves of an extraordinary size, in which are found a curious bird, the Diablotin, (for description vide Dominica) which, if eaten when taken from the nest, is pronounced by epicures unrivalled. t The hogshead in 1802 weighed 1,200 lbs. ; it has since been made to contain 1,400 to 1,500 lbs. STAPLE AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE. 21^ The annals of no country present such an extraordinary increase of cultivation, and consequent production of wealth.* The resources of the island are in fact very great ; the mountainous portion which cannot be cultivated, forms less than one thirtieth of the surface ;f by a measurement in 1 799 * PRODI < JCE OF Tf o IINIDAD a FROM ] ?; o 799 TO 1831. M m m < 1.3 i/3 lbs. o o lbs. o « lbs. H o o lbs. gallons. O gallons. 1799 8,419,859 258,390 335,913 323,415 170,671 142,636 1800 9,895,634 284,170 449,614 317,3.95 194,488 128,507 1801 15,461,912 324,720 328,666 262,997 343,113 173,369 1802 14,164,984 138,669 278,271 190,210 350,049 143,237 1803 16,014,056 361,070 185,658 178,046 344,2.92 214,120 1804 18,595,416 503,210 304,138 164,069 371,544 355,877 180.5 29,438,276 527,690 286,379 256,792 426,469 564,558 1806 29,045,439 588,805 418,049 167,700 399,122 649,432 1808 25,950,928 668,993 387,028 139,200 940,564 606,100 1809 24,856,973 719,230 264,330 134,190 539,081 477,262 1810 21,746,775 726,173 295,443 114,980 463,870 82,163 1811 18,513,302 640,732 276,243 159,136 426,691 324,942 1812 20,971,580 1,375,539 282,460 130,390 548,014 366,070 1813 22,288,145 1,029,512 540,716 184,400 666,761 301,795 1814 21,604,038 1,158,163 382,888 148,505 487,142 262,098 1815 25,075,281 1,065,808 262,289 115,150 523,632 682,718 1816 24,122,415 1,056,662 119,974 93,710 449,067 373,873 1817 22,784,767 1,341,461 215,190 65,951 371,422 351,234 1818 23,200,326 1,232,685 224,972 109,070 439,663 415,251 1819 30,205,731 1,506,445 258,220 131,990 534,626 545,406 1820 30,714,363 1,744,465 211,555 96,545 524,316 471,001 1821 31,127,803 1,648,114 222,809 52,871 496,817 430,092 1822 35,595,932 1,809,730 205,586 64,300 555,878 488,125 1823 37,032,618 1,892,195 245,567 91,550 391,528 658,870 1824 36,855,946 2,443,388 245,592 45,750 344,074 798,814 1825 36,280,347 2,835,935 274,735 58,189 346,543 855,814 1826 43,154,456 2,640,989 275,226 58,030 417,794 995,201 1829 50,089,421 2,206,467 226,123 25,230 400,321 1,362,605 1831 39,240,960 1,479,568 999,373 6,800 390,536 974,031 t Major-General Sir Lewis Grant, whose enlightened government of Trinidad is sensibly appreciated in that island, and by all friends of the colonies, has favoured me with the following note: — 'I conceive that the mountains of Trinidad may be cultivated to their summits : the soil is good, and the growth of timber superb ; but, until the level land lie occu- pied, they will not, of course, be worth cultivating, from the difficulty of 244 MODE OF CULTIVATING THE CACAO NUT. it was found that there may be formed on the territory 1,313 sugar, 945 cofFee, 304 cacoa,* and 158 cotton— plantations of 100 squares, or 320 acres each. A general return for 1831, gives the number of quarreesf of land in cultivation, crop, works, and stock in Trinidad as follows : — establishing roads. The saudy savannahs are the only barren spots, and they serve to pasture cattle.' Sir Lewis informs me that he has in his possession specimens of Trinidad spices as fine as are to be found in any part of the East. This distinguished officer is a zealous advocate for the colonization of the West Indies with European settlers. * As I hope ere long to witness the final abolition of the tax i2d. per lb.) on cacoa when imported into the United Kingdom from any of our colonies, because it affords a wholesome nutritive diet for the poor, I subjoin the following direction for the cultivation of the plant, which, though now principally confined to Trinidad, may have its growth extended to our other colonies in the E. and W. hemispheres. The cacao, or chocolate plant delights in a rich soil, if possible near the banks of a river, or in a situation admitting of occasional irrigation. Seedling plants should be raised in the dry and sheltered spots of a nursery ground. The seeds are sown in small raised mounds, at regular intervals, two seeds being deposited in each mound, lightly covered with mould, and sheltered from the scorching sun with plantain leaves or some other cool and umbrage- ous canopy. If the season be dry moderate watering should be used, and if both seeds germinate, the weakest plant must be destroyed. When the shrub attains fifteen or eigh- teen inches in height, (which will be the case in ten or twelve weeks), its transplantation to the fixed location is necessary. The plants must be arranged in straight rows, in a quincunx form, with a distance between each of sixteen feet, should the soil be rich, and of not less than thirteen if less fertile. Transplantation in dry weather, earth removed with the plants and the tap root deep set when replaced. The cacao delights in the shade ; a vertical sun destroys it, therefore it is imperatively necessary to plant between every second row either the plantain tree or the coral bean tree, (erythrina). When the tree is about two years old it usually put forth from five to seven branches from the top, all beyond five are cut away ; in about six months more flowers commonly appear, which must be also destroyed ; — indeed, it is usual to repeat this abscision annually, until the fifth year, in order that the productive power of the tree may be finally perfected in g^rcater strength. A great number of flowers fall without fructifying ; the fruit, while growing, is green, but as it ripens the pod changes to a bluish red, approaching to purple, with pink veins ; in some varieties the fruit pod becomes of a delicate yellow or lemon colour. When over ripe the pods sometimes burst, and the seeds fall from their gelatinous pulp. The crop may be said to last throughout the year, but the principal gatherings of the fruit are inJuncand towards the end of December. Ko unripe pods must be gathered. The ripe pods are broken with a mallet or cut open, and the seeds separated from the pulp with a wooden spatula ; to separate the seeds entirelj' from the pulp, they are placed in a hole with some dry sand, and left until a very slight fermen- tation comes on the sand, being frequently stirred and replenished to absorb the moisture from the seeds; when at the end of three or four days the process is completed by spreading out the cacao nuts on rush mats, or upon a platform in the sun to dry, care being taken to prevent rain reaching the seeds. When quite dry and hard the nuts may be lightly packed in bags or boxes, and kept in a dry or airy place for use or e.xportation. t A quarrce contains three and one-fifth English acres. D 3J M 5J ^ y* '*N»'fl«3nt^ •daans ■udXQ pn« 8|[ng C< rt .-^ rt i:irN.o o o I rtgi •cc>a>*2»r< t — w- 1 — -r L-3 1>. o w c< rsSstiTSs '93iB|\[ pas 639JOH :^X«5»Or^C1« tnon8£) JO isqom^ 3SS ■pdionoui 9Jd|ioq •8II!WJ310,VV I" •sassBjOK saoi[B9 C-. 2 t^o 3 •nroH JO snoiiBQ IS Se2g5 O 0000:0 Oh'.-?' r^=s* iii 00. -^o-^ cl-»■?^ esooj 8 Jo? S 00 000 ^X i?.?S3 5 ^ f5 5 « '^ ^ i^^SSS-^- 'spBdqsfiopj "5 •j«Sns 'sqq :S'^3 0.-3 ox;::::20 ooo-j=ocrooor; q ^2 5' C?!.^^^ ^ " ^ li* § : uoitVApinj ai joK ^MfiSo^^^jS^^c^-Sgi^^T^ic^^SS^- o^S?i^\^c^iS2-^w^ lOinrAjipioaiiBJoj, rji — o^-0vr:^0*^mf5't'*^"^^oxc^^^r>.t2-r^;oo0h^.o^*0 l-> — o f^n X (O tN,i-'3 52S^ o(£ 2^ 3 5 .-H 00 '^ U5 r^ C^ •spanojQ OiSd^ uj :5S5-H; •ssajX SO300 JO -Ofj ?i gi III I QSO C\ O OOXOOrtOOO •sau«3 oj ^ «/ H g 5 < < ffl ;^ c ■ J u w CCi^ i i ^S '^^Ii;?2'^l2c5'^ — — — 5 ^ o 't; "J 2A(y POPULATION OF TRINID\D FOR THIRTY YEARS. Population. When Trinidad was first discovered by Europeans it had a dense Indian community, who, on its occupation by the Spaniards, were murdered or transported to the Hispaniola mines, to make room for the new occupiers, who seized on the hinds of those they had slain or sent into a captivity worse than death. In 1783, the number of mouths was only — whites, 126, coloured free, 295, slaves, 310, and Indians of all ages, 2,032 ; total, 2,7G3. Owing to the cir- cumstances detailed elsewhere, relative to the throwing open of the island to settlers, the population thus subsequently increased. Abstract of the Annual Population Returns. WHITE. COLOURED. INDIANS. • 6 c Children s Children c ChUdren ■3 QJ .?i^y5Ci'o*oec!0 Oi'^'CClX'OOn: "*• rr ."r S >>^ ?> ^ »30f3C<*^»-<^O^^aoao'«eonMODe4o>&40»t^v<^FNOocc -* w ^ ^ r^^M t^^ M •sioa Oi 0» Ol ■* '-' I c^Okom QO^O) o>cot>.-4coi>tio^>o»oOi<->o)r>^«c5^t^-H -^-^i O M " « « I I O 31© P3 01 l>..CO «o 94 . X : o> ri ^ ^* X N 91 X X >0 d d I > Tji OJ <-« SC CO cc ^ < X— «x«o<-*o< WWOWbs.N'^CC^OO' •uajM •^W'^«OCC<-«i?IC»300-V'Vt^.-HCOiQC»3 • c^ ci r^ !>. cs • •siog , r: ic tN. rN.^c *>. x Oi o ? JOl^OtOo^^O J'^C^'J'OX ---- 'O O) X — ' — >ir3Ci?3XC?i— INON( ^tO— CSCOOiXC^O^^CtSOW l>.T?»XC0O>.'5(N-«O>XW 1-31 OJWtO-^CO— . c^ N c^ o tN. a CT — -4 ' '-•^ CO to O « CO O O O — ! > I>»^»fM«3(NX)X«C^! « o ?< CO r^ ^ '^ i>vtO tn oi o 't • iC?iXtO!N«tN»XWOX CT ^rj-t-* G^O>C — ^r5--'-^OOi'J' X'^CO'O-^Cri— — '■ ■^ -^ t^CC X -• -^ lO X o ■-< (M ^ ^ y: ^ Oi *as9uiq3 •peiox •siJiO ^ -aainoAV I 'mo± ix>-iW^'i'0-fl«corN.x««XTj«(oi>»Oiw»rt-*(Nr;?:'©-TX20coOTOx— to — c^ — o«* to -^ X rt -v o « « '^ M ,_,_._ JCOCICMXO'-.. socococo^o -^ — o-v^ kO in "^ « '"«00»««0"^ ' n M CO ^ •-• — « to lO X -- CO — I !00it>.O0-^iMi5X«J>.X; )OxwM!r»tot^-«to- -f-^^ococo^'v — xi>*t>*coco-*w «"xxc^ wocow ■^'-■cic^*>*X'«t'-to«co«eo •siog N»OtOCOXtOOOlCOCOO»f5CltOOi^-^t^CO — OOOS^COi-TOOOOXl?!! — 'V^tOMOI^CO — t>.t>.t^c ) Oi-^eO " Ol — c^oww«-vo?»o»airN.co tN.74w«co «O>XTjiOiO>M»>.'*-^XtCtO-^X?0< i«-«?j«'^^xr:^».-;rN,^Ojxi^»oo»o- cs»«wxw«5«t^?:OiCi©'9'-^<-«»o cow«"*-*'-r:ton-*^!0< " — (N I W X t>.CO "^ o X 0> tN.«0 tO©'^tO»O^OCO — -l-tOXN-^-^COeO — XXXXOCtOXOiOiNiC t>.tO to 00 « O ( «»oc^■>*'fl'X■^^>*o^«xeo" ^ — « « t ■* — W W •* CO -^ I I tN. C4 X ObtS M tsi C4 94 94 t>^ 'Wox •SW9 O) C< CO -^f -^ C4 ^ C4 D4 A '^ t^-« -V C4 O -^ M to t>. -^r t>» 03 O) CO C4 '« M O C4 IM m to Ok t^ •sioa •0)COtOXtOC4t^U300) COCO-^ «CO -^W tO?3X OD-^tOOOi^n — -^N*>» 00« Tfao-^oteoentococQaDff^ffiQo-^o^^n ncoe40iO>C4 nc^O'^^con^eitx^iotN.Mco «« -« —-««— -> M rH MtO r^cooi^^Oi^o^t>.^t^c'3 — ^QOi-%c'30>oo -. — — -«-« — -.-« «-" «n-» ™ e« n'^no»9<'«nn ~r< nao ia * -^ p - c o c ^ c 2 cs u g « " 2 « C C p = 3 1: =. p s U 0) d *^ «! L ^ _• 3^ • : * 2 :"3 OH CIO S-- ce S u a s p S « o o 0. COMMERCE OF TRINIDAD — SHIPPING, &C. 249 Commerce, Imports and Exports. The trade of the island may, to a great extent, be judged of by the quantity of produce raised in it, as given at page 245. For twelve consecutive years the quantity of the principal articles ex- ported from Trinidad is thus shewn, — Exported Produce of Trinidad from 1821 to 1832:— & ^ Sugar. Molasses. Rum. Cocoa. Coffee. Cotton. InUigo. jHhds. Tierces. Bar. Hhds. Tier. Pun. lbs. lbs. Bales. Seroons. Seroons 1821 20,412 576 7.999 2,730 12,08 1,214,093 199.555 268 1822 20,051 714 7,908 2,932 761 1,780,379 347,399 222 1823 23,662 510 7,038 6,245 566 2,424,703 299.404 460 1824 23,362 882 6,856; 7,409 471 2,661,628 284,637 352 1825 22,512 16,370 7,890 7.896 68 2,760,603 177.348 492 567 1826|25,541 1,358 8,075 8,672 353 2.951,171 321,254 107 2,811 1827 126,075 1,320 7,618 9,694 589 3,696,144 373,424 201 2,368 1828129,605 1,067 6,634 11,320 306 285 2,582,323 266,754 148 2,915 50 182930,629 877 5,184 10,686 596 559 2,756,603 199,015 123 1,234 10 183091,812 480 3,781 4,846 163 258 1,646,531 197.860 50 1,010 7 1831 23,756 449 5,500 8,297 94 853 1,888,852 19.994 31 250 12 1832 25,912 774 6,895 10,977 504 65 1,530,990 150,966 40 498 11 1833 1834 The Imports valued in sterling money, were in 1831, from Great Britain, £182,856; from British Colonies, £51,197; from Foreign States, £66,514: — total, £300,567. The Ex- ports were, to Great Britain, £202,057 ; to British Colonies, £30,428; to Foreign States, £11,907:— total, £244,392, making a grand total of maritime commerce to the amount of £ 544,959. The shipping employed in the trade of the island will be seen from the following official return. Shipping of Trinidad, Inwards and Outwards : — SHIPS INWARDS, FROM SHIPS OUTWARDS, TO Great British Foreign Total Great British Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. Britain. Colonies. states. » s , <«- a s . a >< !5 H ;z; H ;z; § ^ & ^ A H Ss ^ ^ ^ '4, H 1826 77 9,241 1511 10,532:214 19.399 442 210236 4212 76 16,920 167 1,039 178 17,368 429 44,327 1827 83 16,375 185! 11,845,158; 11,043 426 41585 87 19,823 217 15,1391124 11.380 428 46,342 1828il02:22,3&» 151 i 12,884176 11,371,429 46619 109 23,928 218 15,9b6 102 8,435 429 48,349 18291 991 24,333 179 17,058 206 14,324 484 55715 101 23,804 245 19,1711351 11,104 481]54,079 1930 59 13,865 174i 13,681 148 10,619 381 1 38165 71 17.755 216 17,iyi ,123; 10,235 410[45,181 -^831 88 21,611 1 189; 14,860 103] 9,136380 45787 73 17,807 218 16,034 7& 8,274 369:42,115 -1832 1 1 1 1 1 1833 1 250 WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. Weights and Measures. The following are the Spanish Weights and Measures, and the proportion they bear to each other. Weights. The Fanega = ] — Quintal = ] 1 Aroba = 4 Arobas = Measures 110] 100 25 1 lbs. English >» Quintal. Varas. Estadale. 100 = 1 Solar ■e. 2500 = 25 = 1 Suerte. 10000 = 100 = 4 = 1 Fanega. 40000 = 400 = 16 = 4 = 1 English Inches. The Vara of Castille Seville Madrid • • 32,529 33,127 39,166 The Measures used in surveying in Trinidad is the Quarree, containing 18,5261 Varas of Castile, or 3 and l-5th English Acres ; consequently 100 Quarree are equal to 320 acres. The side of a square of a Quarree or 3 and l-5th English Acres, is equal to 373 8-llths English feet; 408| Spanish ditto; 350 French ditto, or 136 and 1-lOth Spanish Varas. Form of Government. The administrative functions of Trinidad are entirely despotic, though nominally vested in a government aided by an executive and legislative committee. The executive council consists of three official members (viz. the Colonial Secretary, the Colonial Treasurer and Attorney General), selected from the Legislative Councils ; — they have no powers, and no other functions than counsellors of the Governor, who may follow their advice or not, as he pleases. The Legislative Council consists of twelve members, six of whom are styled official, holding offices and salaries at the pleasure of the Crown, viz. the Chief Justice, the Colonial Secretary, Attorney General, Colonial Treasurer, Pubhc Prosecutor, and Collector of Customs, and six are styled non FORM OF GOVERNMENT IN TRINIDAD. 251 official, selected from amongst the inhabitants, the whole re- movable at the pleasure of the Crown. The governor presides at the board, has a vote, and a casting vote in addi- tion, and no measure can be introduced or proposed at the board which he objects to! So that the whole power and function of the board are virtually lodged in his hands, al- though nominally the laws may be passed, and the taxes im- posed by the legislative council. The inhabitants of Trinidad are very properly endeavouring to obtain something more liberal than such a mockery of freedom. The Cabildo in its authority and functions resembles our municipal corporations : — it has power to raise revenues which are derived from licenses to the dealers in spirituous liquors, to hucksters, &;c. and from a tax on carts, and on meat and fish sold in the town of Port of Spain, thus re- alizing about £12,000 per annum, with which the streets and market-house are kept in repair, and the salaries of the police officers paid. All other salaries are paid out of the Colonial Treasury. The laws are principally Spanish, executed after the Spanish form, with some modifications; the titles of Alcade, Alquazil, &c. are always used instead of the corresponding terms in English. Trinidad Militia. Every freeman of the island is enrolled in the militia, which is composed of artillery, cavalry and infan- try, with a very numerous staff. Their appearance on the great plain before St. Anne's is really superb ; the muster is about 4,500, and a more efficient state of discipline is kept up than perhaps in any of the other islands. The Governor is of course Commander-in-Chief; there are two Brigadiers-Gene- ral, an Adjutant, Commissary, Paymaster, Muster-Master, Proyost-Marshal, and Judge Advocate-Gewera/; with de- puties to each; Physician, Surgeon, and Apothecary Ge- neral, and of Field Officers, two Colonels, twenty-one Lieu- tenant-Colonels, twelve Majors, and fifty-seven Captains. The uniforms are various and splendid ; — the artillery is blue, with red facings, and gold lace ; the royal Trinidad light dragoons blue, facings buff, and lace silver; mounted chasseurs and light infantry green uniform ; and the sea fencibles blue, with 252 MILITIA — TAXATION AND EXPENDITURE. white facings ; and so on through the whole of the other corps. The fines for non-attendance on parade, agreeably to the resolutions for the government of the militia forces of this island are — A Colonel Lieutenant Colonel Major, Captain Lieutenant, Ensign, Sur- "^ geon. Adjutant, and s g dol. 80 50 40 12 Sergeant-MajorandQr.- Master Sergeant Sergeant Corporal Private — first offence second . :} dol. 8 6 5 4 6 Quarter-Master . J and for the third renders himself liable to be brought to trial by a general regimental court martial, which court is empowered to pass sentence of fine and imprisonment ; not however exceeding twenty dollars, and forty-eight hours con- finement. And should a fourth offence occur, any private so offending, is liable, on conviction before a court martial, to be removed from the colony, as being inimical to the regulations established for the security and good order thereof. Besides the militia, these are the head quarters of a European regi- ment of the line, and part of a West India regiment. Taxation and Expenditure. It is difficult to learn the actual financial state of any of our colonies ; no measure would be more advantageous to the general weal and com- merce of the empire than the appointment of commissioners to visit the different colonies, and make explicit reports on this important subject. Trinidad defrays the whole expenses of its civil establishment, the extent of which is fixed by the Secretary for the colonies in England, without the Go- vernor or Council having the power to increase or diminioh the amount of the expenditure. The following are the colo- nial duties payable at the treasury: — On Imports, per Cent. On Invoice, excepting Cot- ton, Linen, & Cod Fish, S\ On Wines . . . . 7 On Spirits 4*. per gallon in addition to . "o On Exports. per Cent. On the value of Produce regulated per Tariff* of the Market Price ^ DUTIES LEVIED ; SALARIES, &C. 253 . £2 per £100 ' 2\ ditto. . 31 ditto. . 4f ditto. 6 ditto. 7 ditto. 6 ditto. Tare — Hogsheads and tierces, 14 lbs. percent.; on barrels, 20 lbs. each ; and on bags, 3 lbs. each. Transient Property to pay 2\ per cent. Tonnage duty, 6c/. sterling per ton. Duties on bequests by will made in Trinadad : — In the ascending line Collateral line of the first degree . Of the second degree Of the third degree To illegitimate or natural children To all other persons Bequests from the fifth And on all legacies, or inheritances paid to persons," residents of a foreign colony or state (except in the descending line) an addition of . . . .2 ditto. Besides the foregoing, there is a tax of 5 per cent, on the assessed rent of houses ; and a poll tax of 8*. 8f/. sterling on each slave. The taxation raised on the principal items is £> 15,000. on colonial produce exported, being levied at the rate of 3| per cent, ad valorem ; £ 8000. on all goods imported at the same rate, except British linens, cottons, and salt fish; £ 10,000. on slaves as a poll tax; and £2,500. on the annual rents of houses. The civil establishment costs £10.000, and the judicial £ 7,000. A recent Parliamentary return states the revenue and expenditure for five years thus : — 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1629 1830 1831* £. £. £. £. £. £. £. £. Taxation 36,280 44,332 54,921 50,080 49,196 43,196 Expenditure 37,587 35,958 44,589 54,015 36,584 36,584 1832 £. The amount of the principal salaries is annually — Governor, £4,000. ; Chief Judge, £2,000. ; first Puisne, £1,500. ; second Ditto, £1,500. ; Island Secretary, £8,00.; Register, £600.; * Mr. Porter's Board of Trade Statistical Vol, gives the ji^ross revenue of Trinidad for 1831 at 34,993/. Tlie expense of civil establishments, 41,801/.; and the charges incurred by the colony for garrisons, 726/. j total, 42/)27/. .. 254- MONIES — VALUK OF PROPERTY, &c. Attorney-General, £1,200. ; Treasurer, £800. ; Examiner of Public Accounts, £400. ; Escriband to Judicial Courts, £8,000. ; Commissioners of Population, £500. A very large sum is raised by fees, the tables for regulat- ing which occupy the greater part of the colonial almanac ; it would seem very desirable that such a system were in a great measure reformed. By the 114th cap. 6. Geo. IV., all custom-house fees are wisely abolished, under a penalty of £100. for any officer receiv- ing such fee or bribe, besides dismissal from office. Monies. Accounts are kept in dollars and bits, (reals are sometimes denoted, particu- larly in the multifarious fees of the Roman Catholic church) *, the difference between the Colonial currency and ster- ling is — 3d. cur. = l5f/. ster- ling; 1*. cur.=:5|c/. sterling; £1. cur.nSir. 8^/. sterling. Value of Property. Re- ferring to the general remarks on the value of property, as made under British Guyana, I give the following table as the nearest approximation to truth — O > o 2 S I— I a > o a a c3 c3 c a < o o > 'OiqnsAoiuuij pu« .iiquaAOM 'iwadojj isjox o Xiisnuu ■pajBSjQ V Xiaadoij [bjox s s a > o s a z < ca < > i a. •oonninojiQ ai uioo JO uojiina s 1 > Hones, Cattle, Mules, Goats, 100,0!j(noan |.S'S| •pajsiijina Pi} d &] a O .J < z I es •saupuns puu'aiuoDui »sjaiiiia«jnuwj\[ 1 pas pooj ptuiov •3« 'pooj aiqmaaaA •uojioo =^s«- •aajBOO •soaoo -«ass«ioj^ m •tuna S|3'| ■jtSos GENERAL VIEW AND FUTURE TROSPECTS. 255 General View and Future Prospects. No person can peruse even the brief description now given of this lovely isle, without admitting its importance and value to Great Britain, not only in reference to its fertile soil, and the quantity of crown land lying waste,* but also with regard to its admirable position on the S. American coast, by means of which an extensive depot may be formed for continental commerce, as the civilization and wealth of the Transatlantic republics increase. The remarks made under Jamaica, in re- ference to the future prospects of that island, apply equally well to Trinidad, as regards the ultimate result of the Slave Eman- cipation Bill. The grand principle by which our colonies ought to have been governed, after they have arrived at a certain extent of population and wealth, has not yet been applied to Trinidad. I am confident, however, that the inhabitants of Trinidad have only to press forward their claims for a Legis- lative Assembly, with somewhat of vigour and energy, and their prayer will not be refused by the ministers of the crown or the Parliament of the nation. If our fellow subjects in Trinidad be not admitted to send a representative to sit in the Imperial Assembly, they must, in common justice, be permitted to manage their local affairs by a local assembly at home. The colonies possessing local legislative assemblies are not only no drain on the British exchequer, but a very great support to it ; and although Trinidad now defrays the whole of its civil and a part of its military defence, yet would its inhabitants yield more readily a greater revenue if allowed * Situation and extent of the Crown Lands, in acres, in Trinidad in 1827 :— Arim a, 11,4395 Carenage and Cuesse, 6,221 ; Caroni, 30,858 ; Cudros, 2,135; Chaguanas, 8,010; Coura, Savanetta, &c. 22,969; Diego Martin, 2,427; Erin, 1,491; Guanapo, 52,317; Hicacos, 3,017; Irios, 6,474; Labrea and Guapo, 6,474 ; Las Cuevas, 4,502 ; Maraval, 4,021 ; Maraccas Valley, 1,328; Mayaro, 7,685; Oropuche, 3,175; Point a Pierre, 4,527 ; South Naparima, 5,902 ; Santa Cruz, 406 ; Savanna Grande, 733 ; Jaca- riqua and Arauca, 9,763; Joco and Cumana, 2,765; Valley of Caura, 2,955; laud in the intei'ior undefined in its boundaries, 881,658. Total of crown lands in Trinidad, 1,080,500 acres. 256 NECESSITY AND JUSTICE OF LOCAL ASSEMBLIES. to tax themselves ; or they would be enabled to relieve them- selves of injurious fiscal imposts by curtailing unnecessary taxation, and by keeping a watchful eye over the expenditure of the government. However, as I propose giving a general view of Ancient and Modern Colonial Policy in the fifth volume of this work, I reserve for that period any further remarks on this important branch of my subject. S57 CHAPTER IV. TOBAGO. ITS LOCALITY — GENEUAL HISTORY — PHYSICAL ASPECT — GEOLOGY — CLI- MATE — ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE KINGDOMS — POPULATION COMMERCE REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE — GOVERXM ENT, &C. Locality. In 11. 16 N. lat. 60. 30 W. long, the western end distant but six miles from Trinidad, and the eastern twenty-four leagues from Grenada, is situate Tobago, the most southerly of the Caribbee islands, about thirty-two miles long, in an E. N. E. direction ; and in its greatest breadth twelve miles, embracing a mountainous area of 14 square miles. General History. Tobago, or Tobacco, was discovered by Columbus in 1496, and thus named after the pipe used by the islanders in smoking the herb now so extensively used in the Old World, and then termed Kohiba.*' When first visited it was found to be peopled by a race since well known under the denomination of Caribs, who were at continual war with another nation denominated the Arrawaaks, residing on the main land.f The Tobagians sometime after left the island and retired from the pursuit of the Arrawaaks to St. Mn- cents,]: where, it is said, they lived in peace with the Indians inhabiting that isle. In 1580, the British flag was planted on the island ; in 1608, James the First claimed its sovereignty ; no effectual colonization however then took place, § although the isle was granted to the Earl of Pembroke in 1628 by * The herb and pipe bore the same name at the other extremity of the Carib Archipelago in St. Domingo. t Vide chapter on British Guyana for a description of tliese people. X It would appear from this that tha Arrawaaks, as asserted by some, were a nation of Caribs, dififering in some points from those now generally called by the name of Carib. § A small British Colony is said to have settled on the island from Bar- badoes, in 1 625 ; but it was subsequently abandoned. A description of Tobago is said to have suggested the scenery of Crusoe's island to De Foe. VOL. II. s 258 HISTORY OF TOBAGO ITS EARLY Charles the First. Some Dutch navigators visited Tobago on their return voyage from the Brazils, and, struck with its advantageous situation for trade with the continent, as also with the beauty of its climate and the richness of its soil, a company of Flushing traders formed an establishment on the almost deserted isle in 1632, founding the colony with 200 persons, and naming it New Walcheren in honour of their native home ; but, in 1634, before the Hollanders had time to fortify themselves, the jealousy of the Spaniards of Tri- nidad was roused, and, aided by some native Indians, the Dutch that escaped the onslaught were conducted as pri- soners to Trinidad, the rising walls of the fortress of New Walcheren razed, the cannon and stores carried off, and the plantations utterly destroyed. For nearly twenty succeeding years the island remained untenanted, but occasionally fre- quented by seamen from Martinique and Guadaloupe to fish for turtle, or by the Indians of St. Vincent and the other Antilles, who touched there on their frequent expeditions against the Arrawaaks of the Orinoco. In 1654* some merchants at Flushing, named the Lampsins, obtained a charter from the government of the United Pro- vinces, authorizing their occupation of Tobago for their sole use, with the privilege of appointing a Governor and Ma- gistrates, but giving a veto to the Dutch government at home on the nomination of the former. The spirit of commerce was then at its height in Holland, and Tobago, or New Walcheren, soon became not merely an agricultural colony, but one of the most thriving commercial emporiums in the West Indies. Shortly after the Dutch occupation, a vessel arrived at Tobago with colonists from Courland, James the first of England having previously granted Tobago to his godson the Duke of Courland. Nearly 100 families were thus landed on one of the most beautiful parts of the island termed Courland Bay ; in a few days the contending colonists came to blows, but the belligerents at length agreed to leave * Some sHy that the Courlanders arrived oa the north coast of Tobago iu 1648. SETTLEMENT BY THE DUTCH AND ENGLISH. 259 each other quiet until their respective governments at home should decide to whom the island belonged. The Courlanders were neglected, partly owing to the Duke being imprisoned and deprived of his territories by the King of Sweden, while the Lampsins strongly reinforced their friends ; the result was that, in 1659, the latter forced the Courlanders to relinquish Fort James, which they had built in Courland Bay. The efforts of the Duke of Courland to recover Tobago, on the restitution of his states, were ineffectual, notwithstanding the manifesto of Charles II. in his favour, 17th of November, 1664, when declaring war against Holland; — the Lampsins therefore remained in peaceable possession for some years. No mention was made of Tobago at the treaty of Breda ; and during the interval of the first and second war between England and Holland, the Governor, Hubert de Beveren, and the colonists, amounting to li200, placed Forts James and Lamp- sinberg in a good state of defence, while the commerce and cultivation of the island rapidly increased. Nevertheless Tobago was shortly after plundered and sacked by Sir Tobias Bridges, at the head of the Barbadian privateers, and subsequently the Dutch having declared war against the French, the Duke D'Estrees attacked and de- feated Admiral Binkes, in Scarborough Bay, and pillaged the island. Four months after D'Estrees again appeared off Fort Lampsins, landed his infantry, and attacked Birikes in the fortress, who, after a gallant defence was, together with a great part of his little garrison, blown up by the explosion of a powder magazine, and on the 24th Dec. 1677, the brave and industrious Hollanders were compelled to abandon a colony which they had commenced under such favourable auspices in 1654; such are the wretched effects of desolating wars for personal aggrandizement. In 1678 the Duke of Courland renewed his pretensions, and for many years strenuous, but unavailing efforts were made to induce co- lonists to settle in the island. In 1737 the house of Kettler, sovereigns of Courland, being extinct by the death of Fer-r dinand, son of James, England claimed the reversion of 260 CESSION OF TOBAGO TO ENGLAND. Tobago. In 1748, by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle, it was stipulated that St. Lucia should belong to France, and that Tobago, Grenada, St. Vincent, and Dominica should be considered as neutral islands, that the subjects of all Euro- pean powers should have the right to establish themselves, and carry on commerce in and with those islands, but that none of the contracting parties should place garrisons in them.* At the peace of 1763, Louis XV. ceded Tobago in per- petuity to England, and on the 20th of May 1765 a commis- sion was appointed for granting lands on the island. The prosperity of the island dates from this period, large capitals were invested by enterprizing British colonists, and agricul- ture and commerce rapidly progressed ; but the miseries of war had not yet terminated ; during our contest with North America, in 1781, Tobago was captured by the Marquis de Bouillie, and ceded to France by the treaty of Versailles in 1783. While Tobago remained in the possession of France, a few French settlers established themselves in the island, and on the breaking out of hostilities between England and France, General Cuyler, in March 1793, at the head of 2,000 men, took possession of the island for Great Britain, in whose possession it has ever since remained. Physical Aspect. Tobago has been termed the ' Melon- choly Isle,' because when viewed from the N. it seems to be only a mass of lofty, gloomy, mountains, with black precipices, descending abruptly to the sea ; on a nearer approach the island exhibits a very irregular aspect ; it is principally com- posed of conical hills of basaltic formation, and of ridges which descend from the interior, (where they rise in a distinct manner from a common base or dorsal ridge 1,800 feet high, and running twenty miles out of the thirty-two that the island * Whether Tobago vvas then inhabited or not, it is hard to say. The chroniclers of the island assert, that, in 1757, the ship Stirling Castle touched at Tobago ; and on Mr. Thompson, a midshipman, landing, he found an old French hermit on the island, who had been living alone on it for twenty-one years. PHYSICAL ASPECT — HARBOURS, BAYS, &C. 261 is long), toward the sea, terminating sometimes in abrupt precipices ; the ravines are deep and narrow, and end generally in small alluvial plains. The N. W. part is the least mountainous, terminating in the N. in abrupt precipices, with the dark island of little Tobago and the dangerous rocks called St. Giles's, The S. terminates in broken plains and low lands, the whole aspect, like Trinidad, being calm and magnificent, with occasional beautiful mounds of isolated hills, so close that few levels for marsh or swamps present them- selves, the delightful vales every where exhibiting the effects of a rotatory and undulating motion of vast currents of water, and forming with the contiguous mountains truly picturesque scenery. The island is well watered by rivulets and streams, arising in the interior, and passing over the low lands to the coast, where they are occasionally obstructed, which how- ever a little attention would prevent. Scarborough, the principal town, is situate on tlie S. W. side of Tobago along the sea shore, (at the base of Fort George Hill), and extends, with little uniformity, easterly towards the Fort, the distance from the latter place being upwards of half a mile. On the S. and S. W. the descent to the sea is gradual, and at the base of the hill approaching the town are several scattered country houses. Fort George Hill (the road to which is steep and towards the W.), rises to the height of four hundred and twenty-two feet, of a conical shape, and crowned by 'Fort King George,' the chief military station in the island. On the windward side are numerous excellent bays, and on the northward is situate ' Man-of-War Bay,' capacious, safe, and adapted to the largest ships. At Courland Bay (on the N. side, six miles from Fort King George), which approaches the lee- ward extremity, the hills, covered with rich forests, are bolder and more abrupt than on the S. side, and conse- quently the cultivation more scattered ; the ' Richmond,' a large river, passes through the district. Extending from Courland to Sandy Point, on the S. side are several estates on the low lands in good cultivation, owing to the number of 262 rxEOLOGICAL FORMATION OF TOBAGO. rivulets watering the shore. Sandy Point district (or as it may be termed Garden), forms the western extremity of the island, and is the only level land of any extent in Tobago. The eastern district is chiefly composed of high mountains, clothed with noble trees, and but thinly cultivated. Man of War, Courland, Sandy Point and King Bays, are adapted to the largest sized ships ; Tyrrels, Bloody, Man- grove, Englishman's, and Castara's Bays have good an- chorage for vessels vip to 150 tons burthen; Halifax Bay admits vessels of 250 tons — but a shoal at the entrance re- quires a pilot. Geology. On a complete view of the island, as compared with the adjacent continent, the observer is impressed with the belief that it formed, at some distant day, a bold promontory of main land, from which it has been violently dissevered. There is, in fact, a general physiognomical resemblance be- tween Tobago and Trinidad, except that there are not seen those large blocks of hyaline quartz in the former that are found almost every where in the latter, on the summits of mountains as well as on the plains ; the rounded pebbles found in the beds of rivers are generally of quartz or freestone, some of hyaline quartz, others of ampliiobolic schistus, &c. Neither sulphur nor carbonate of lime have been seen. The hill above Scarborough appears to be a bed of basalt and schistus rock, with a loose and heavy super-stratum. The soil is a rich dark mould, and resembles (particularly in the E. part) that of its neighbouring isle, with the advantage of the vege- tative earth being deeper on the hills of Tobago. Climate, — though moist, by being impregnated with saline particles, is not at all unhealthy, particularly if proper atten- tion were paid to preventing the exits of the mountain streams. The rainy season begins in June, and gradually becomes heavy until September, the violence of the rains then abate, showers continuing, at intervals, to the end of December or beginning of January, when the season termed ' croptime' begins. The island is out of the usual range of hurricanes — the winds are S.E. and S. during the greater part of the year ; CLIMATE — WINDS AND SAILING INSTRUCTIONS. 263 in December and January they prevail from the N. — often very strong and cold. So decidedly salubrious are the high lands of the interior, that Dr. Lloyd, the principal medical officer, reported to Sir James M'Gregor* in 1827, that * on some of the estates in the interior, no European resident had been buried for upwards oi ten years'! Tides, Winds and Sailing Directions. The currents round the island are very uncertain, especially in the Trinidad channel. At new and full moon the rise of the tide is four feet. The N. E. trade blows all the year about the island. The island being seen towards evening, the mariner cautious of ap- proaching, should stand under easy sail to the southward, as the current sets to the N. W. ; coming from the E. steer for the S. coast, and keep well to the southward to stem the N. W. current, which always sets round the lesser Tobago. On entering any of the bays to leeward, ships may approach quite close to St. Giles's rock. There is nothing to fear at the S. W. Bay of Courland but rocks above water, except the Chesterfield rock. Tobago is free from hurricanes, though Grenada, the most southward of the Antilles, and only thirty leagues from the continent, is as much under the influence of squalls as the other Antilles. Vegetable Kingdom. Almost every kind of plant that grows on the Antilles flourishes at Tobago — and also, in common with Trinidad, the greater part of those which are cultivated in Guyana and Cumana. The orange, lemon, guava, pomegranate, fig and grape are in perfection ; the two latter yield fruit twice a year, (if pruned three weeks after the fruit has been gathered) and all the culinary plants of Europe arrive at perfection. The cinnamon and pimento (some say also the nutmeg) trees grow wild in different parts of the island — and the cotton of Tobago is of excellent quality. * Through the kindness of Sir James, I have been enabled to render my labours more beneficial to the empire by the facile access, which the head of the Army IMedical Department most politely granted me, to refer to the valuable topographical reports, furnished by the medical officers of the army, from our difl'erent colonies. 264 VEGETATION AND ZOOLOGY OF TOBAGO. Zoology. Although the vegetation of Tobago and Trini- tlad is similar, some quadrupeds and birds are found in the latter which do not exist in the former, and r>ice versa ; the Katraka, for instance, a very singular species of pheasant, although taken from Tobago to Trinidad and let loose, has not multiplied there ; while the Hoccos of Trinidad are in a similar position with regard to Tobago ; and although nearly all the quadrupeds of the immense region between the Ama- zons river and the isthmus of Panama, are to be found at Trinidad, very few of them are to be seen at Tobago ; even the small deer of Guyana, so plentiful at Trinidad, do not exist here. The indigenous birds are — varieties of wild ducks, pigeons, blackbirds (yellow and black) white wood- cocks, thrushes, herons, pouched pelicans, &c. The eagles of the Orinoco, and flamingoes, frequent the coasts. Three varieties of humming birds exist, and a small bird of the size of a sparrow, with magnificent plumage ; the head, neck and upper part of the body is of a most brilliant red — the feathers of the wings and tail of a deep purple above and a sky blue underneath, and the breast and belly of an azure hue. A great variety of shell-fish is found on the coast, which is frequented by sea-cows and turtles in abundance. Population. Of the yearly increase or decrease of the inhabitants I can find no connected details ; * the whites are estimated at 450 ; the free coloured, males 477, females 686 ; the following Table shews the numbers, increase and decrease, of the slave population from 1819 to 1832. * Since the text was written I have found the following statements of early population ; it would appear from this that the whites have not augmented of late. In 1/76 the population was 2,397 vvhite, 1,050 free negroes, and 10,752 slaves; in 17^7, whites, 1,397; free coloured, 1,050; slaves, 10,539 ; and the import of slaves, in a medium of four years, 1,400 ; in 1805, whites, 900 j coloured people, 700; slaves, 14,883. POPULATION, COMMERCE, REVENUE, GOVERNMENT, &C. 265 Increase Decrease Decrease by by Birth. by Death. Manumission. a to s ■3 "3 3 •S 73 ales mal >- S p^ IS U< S r" Ph s 1 s: 1819 .. /,633 7,837 1 15,470 1820 .. 7,384 7.679 1 15,063 141 163 416 384 1 5 1821 .. 7,107 7,474 1 14,521 178 155- 370 306 1 2 1822 .. 6.952 7,363 1 14,315 159 158 367 303 10 12 1823 .. 6,812 7,263 ,14,074,151 167 232 211 5 16 1824 . . 6,558 7,098 13,6»6i 166 157 371 290 9 i 14 1825 . . 6,532 7,151 :13,683 154 15- 213 191 4 1 2 1826 .. 6,391 7,034 13,428 168 160 362 328 7 i 10 1827 . . 6,138 6,861 12,999 170 163 213 185 3 7 1828 .. 6,088 6,807 12,895 178 191 289 249 4 7 1829 .. 5,986 6,757 112,723 178 196 283 248 2 6 1830 . . 5,872 6,614 12,556 165 155 288 220 4 12 1831 .. 5,769 6,601 112,370,170 171 274 241 4 11 1832 .. 5,603 6,488 12,091 145 161 298 253 13 21 Commerce. — Exports. The principal exports are sugar, molasses and rum — of which there were exported in 1831 — sugar, 8,453 hogsheads; molasses, 183 puncheons; rum, 5,171 ditto. The value of the trade of the island, and the shipping employed for the same year was — I.MPORTS. VALUE IN STERtlNG. EXPORTS. VALUE IN STERLING. 1831 ^J3 S ill 6 1 To Great Britain. To British Colonies. To Foreign States. 6 3 -3 > je. 54,530 57.961 Ships I 4,780 iwards 117,241 144,38 4 15,686 Ships Ov 220 itwards 160,290 Tons. 7,127 6,64- 1,478 15,252 7,385 7,377 582 15,344 Revenue and Expenditure. — The gross receipts of the island revenue for 1831 was £9,992, and the expenses of the civil estahlishment £7,388. Form of Government. Tobago is ruled by a Governoi-, Council and House of Assembly, whose powers and authority are similar to those of Jamaica, Sec. 266 CHAPTER V. GRENADA. ITS LOCALITY — I'llYSlCAL ASPECT — MOUNTAINS, RIVERS, AND LAKES — GEOLOGY — VEGETABLE AND ANIMAL KINGDOMS — POPULATION — COM- MERCE — REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE — GOVERNMENT, &.C, Locality. Grenada, the most southerly of the Antilles, iind most lovely of our West India isles, is situate between the parallels of 12.20 and 11.58 N. Lat. and 61.20 and 61.35 W. Long., nearly equi-distant from Tobago (60 miles) and the nearest point of the continent of South America; its greatest length, N. and S. about twenty-five miles, (and at either ex- tremity narrowing to a point) — in its greatest breadth 12, in circumference 50, miles, and containing about 80,000 acres. General History. Christopher Columbus, during his third adventurous voyage in 1498, discovered Grenada, and found it fully occupied by a warlike race, (the Charibs) among w horn the Spaniards never attempted to form a settle- ment, and who remained for a century after in peaceable pos- session of their native home. In 1650 the French Governor of Martinique, Du Parquet,* collected 200 hardy adventurers, for the purpose of seizing on the island, wliich, from the manly character of the natives, was considered an enterprize of difficulty and danger. This expedition,! as related by Father du Tertre, exhibits a monstrous mixture of fanatacisin and knavery. The com- manders administered the holy sacrament, in the most solemn manner, to all the soldiers on their embarkation, and again on their landing — and l^u Parquet, causing a cross to be erected, * Du Paniiiti MilkM'iiucDtly ,. t 1 am iiidcbtcHl to the Grcuada Aluiauac for many dctaiU relative to this isle. FRENCH CONQUEST AND SETTLEMENT OF GRENADA. 2(37 compelled them to kneel down before it, and join in devout prayer to Almighty God for the success of their enterprize. The natives received and entertained the French with the utmost kindness and cordiaUty, pretending to open a treaty with the chiefs of the Charibs for the purchase of the country. The latter gave the natives '' some knives and hat- chets, and a large quantity of glass beads, besides two bottles of brandy for the chief himself " and then asserted that the island was fairly ceded to the French nation, by the natives themselves, in lawful purchase ! Du Parquet thus established a colony in Grenada, built a fort for its protection, and left the government of the island to a kinsman, named Le Compte. Within eight months after this period we find a war of extermination carried on by the French against the Charibs. Du Parquet sent a reinforce- ment of 300 men from Martinique, with orders to extirpate the natives altogether ; but Le Compte seems not to have wanted any incitement to acts of barbarity ; for Du Tertre admits that he had already proceeded to murder, without mercy, every Charib that fell into his hands — not sparing even the women and children. The manner in which the unfortunate aborigines were destroyed may be judged of by a circumstance which Father Du Tertre relates of one expedition. ' Forty of the Cha- raibes were massacred on the spot. About forty others, who had escaped the sword, ran towards a precipice, from whence they cast themselves headlong into the sea, and miserably perished. A beautiful girl, of twelve or thirteen years of age, who was taken alive, became the object of dispute between two of our officers, each of them claiming her as his prize ; a third coming up, put an end to the contest, by shooting the girl through the head. The place from which these barbarians threw themselves into the sea, has been called ever since le Morne de Saiiteurs, (Leapers' Hill.) Our people, having lost but one man in the expedition, proceeded in the next place to set fire to the cottages, and root up the provisions of the savages — and having destroyed or taken 268 CESSION TO GREAT BRITAIN — RESISTANCE TO TAXES. away every thing belonging to them, returned in high spirits' No wonder that the whole native population was soon extir- pated. It may well be imagined that cultivation made but little progress. So late as 1700 the island contained no more than 2oi whites and 5^5 blacks, who were employed on three plantations of sugar and fifty-two of indigo. After the peace of Utrecht, the government of France began to turn its attention towards her West India posses- sions. Grenada, however, for many years, partook less of its care than the rest. By a smuggling intercourse with the Dutch, the Grenadians changed their circumstances for the better — increased their numbers— and a great part of the country was settled. In 1762 Grenada and the Grenadines are said to have yielded annually, in clayed and muscovado sugar, a quantity equal to about 1 1 ,000 hogsheads of mus- covado of fifteen cwt. each, and about 27,000 pounds of indigo. Grenada surrendered on capitulation in February, 1762, and, with its dependencies, was finally ceded to Great Britain, by the definitive treaty of Paris, on the 10th of February, 1763 — St. Lucia being restored at the same time to France. The chief stipulations in favour of the inhabitants, as well by the treaty as by the articles of capitulation, were these : — First, That as they would become, by their surrender, sub- jects of Great Britain, they should enjoy their properties and privileges, and pay taxes, in like manner as the rest of His Majesty's subjects of the other British Leeward Islands. Secondly, With respect to religion, they were put on the same footing as the inhabitants of Canada — viz. liberty was given them to exercise it according to the rites of the Romish Churcli, as far as the laivs of Great Britain permitted. Thirdly, Such of the inhabitants of Grenada as chose to quit the ii^land, should have lil)crty to do so, and eighteen months allowed tliem to dispose of their effects. A Legislative Assembly was granted by England, and the Grenadians resisted the imposition of the \l per cent. FRENCH OCCUPATION AND GALLANT DEFENCE. 269 duties. The Crown, liowever, persisting in its claim, and the inhabitants in opposing it, issue was joined before the judges of the Court of King's Bench in England. The case was elaborately argued in Westminster-hall four several times; and in Michaelmas Term, 1774, Lord Chief Justice Mans- field pronounced judgment against the Crown. The con- sequence was, that the duty in question was abolished not only in Grenada but also in Dominica, St. Vincent's and To- bago. [It should have been aboHshed in all the islands.] On the 2d of July, 1797, a French armament, consisting of a fleet of twenty-five ships of the line, ten frigates and 5,000 troops, under the command of the Count D' Estaing, appeared off the harbour and town of St. George : the whole force of the island was composed of ninety men of the 48th regiment, 300 militia of the island, and 150 seamen from the merchant ships ; and its fortifications consisted chiefly of an entrench- ment, which had been hastily thrown up round the summit of Hospital-hill. This entrenchment the Count D'Estaing in- vested the next day, at the head of 3,000 of his best forces, which he led up in three columns, and, after a desperate con- flict and the loss of 300 men carried the lines. Never did so small a body of men make a nobler defence against such inequality of numbers, The Governor (Lord Macartney) and the remains of his little garrison immediately retired into the old fort at the mouth of the harbour, which, however, was wholly untenable, being commanded by the Hospital-hill battery, the guns of which, having been most unfortunately left unspiked, were now turned against them. At day break the French opened a battery of two twenty-four pounders against the walls of the old fort. In this situation, the Governor and inhabitants had no alternative but an unconditional sur- render; and the Count d'Estaing became master of the island. Grenada and the Grenadines were restored to Great Britain, with all the other captured islands in the West Indies, (Tobago excepted) by the general pacification which took place in 1783. In 1795 an insurrection, fermented it 270 CHRONOLOGICAL LIST OF THE GOVERNORS OP GRENADA. was said by the French Revolutionists, broke out March 1795, which was not finally terminated until July 1796. During the continuance of the disturbance the greatest dis- tress prevailed, and the most horrid murders were per- petrated by the infatuated rebels ; wherever they appeared devastation followed them ; and, from the direful effects of their cruelty and rapine Grenada has never recovered the flourishing state which it had previously enjoyed.* Physical Aspect. The general aspect of Grenada is ex- tremely lovely, but mountainous and pictvu'esque ; the interior and N. W. coast consist of successive piles of conical hills or * For the sake of reference and as historical data I give, wherever I find it practicable, a list of the chief authorities in each settlement, with the dates of their period of office. A list of Governors, Lieut.-Govemors, &c. who have held the Govern- ment of Grenada, since the cession of the Colony to Great Britain, in the year 1763 : — Brig'.-Gen. Robert Melville, Capt.-Gen. Commander-in-Chief in and over the southern Charibbee Islands of Grenada, Dominica, St. Vincent, and Tobago, 1764 ; Ulysses Fitzmaurice, Sen. Lieut.-Governor of St. Vincent, 1768 ; Brig. -Gen. R. Melville, again, 1770 ; F. Corsar, Esq. President, 1771; U. Fitzmaurice, Lieut.-Gov. of St. Vincent, again, 1771 ; Brig.-Gen. W. Leybourne, Gov. S. C. Islands, 1771; F. Corsar, Esq. President again, 1775; W.Young, Lieut.-Gov. Tobago, 1775; Sir G. (afterwards Lord) Macartney, K. B. Gov. 1776 ; Lf.-Gen. E. Matthew, Gov. 1784 ; W. Lucas, Es(i. Pres. 1785; S.Williams, Es(}. Pres. 1787; J- Campbell, Esq. Pres. 1788; S. Williams, Esq. again Pres. 1789 to 1793; N. Home, Esq Lieut.- Gov. 1793; K. M'Kenzie, Esq. Pres. 1795; S. Williams, Esq. again Pres. 1795; A. Houstoun, Esq. Lt.-Gov. 1796; Col. C. Green, Gov. 1/97; S. Mitchell, Esq. Pres. 1798; Rev. S. Dent, Pres. 1801 ; G. V. Hobart, Esq. Lt.-Gov. 1802 ; Rev. S. Dent, again Pres. 1802 ; Maj.-Gen. W. D. M'Leau Clephane, Lt.-Gov 1803; Rev. S. Dent, again Pres. 1803, A. C. Adye, Esq. Pres. 1804; Brig.-Gen. F. Maitland, Gov. 1805; J. Harvey, Esq. Pres. 1807; A. C. Adye, Esq. again Pres. 1808 to 1809; Major-Gen. F. Maitland, Gov. 1810; A. C. Adye, Esq. again Pres. 1810 to 1811; Col. G. R. Ainslie, Vice-Gov. 1812; J. Harvey, Esq. Pres. 1813; Maj.-Gen. Sir C. Shipley, Gov. 1813 to 1815; G. Paterson, Esq. Pres. 1815; Maj.- Gen. Phineas Riall, Gov. 1816; A. Houstoun, Esq. Pres. 1817 to 1819; Maj.-Gen. P. Riall, (resumed) Gov. 1821 ; G. Paterson, Esq. Pres. 1821 to 1823; Sir J. Campbell, K. C.B. Gov. 1826 to 1831; A. Houstoun, Esq. Pres. 1829; F. Palmer, Esq. Pros. 1831. PHYSICAL ASPECT OF GRENADA. 271 continuous ridges, rounded in their outline, and covered with vast forest trees and brush wood; from N. to S. the island is traversed by one continued though irregular range, rising in some places to a very considerable elevation, often to 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, but everywhere accessible. From this chain, but particularly from one very remarkable and magnificent spot in the centre of the island, N. E. of St. George's, called the Grand-Etang, numerous small rivers and streamlets have their source irrigating the country in every direction. One of the most prominent features in this wild romantic district is Mount St. Catherine (Morne Michel) which, clothed with a splendid vegetation, towers to an altitude of '3,200 feet above the ocean level ! Several mountain ridges extend from the great chain towards the windward or S. E. side, forming rich and picturesque vallies, but nearly the whole of the windward coast from the S. termination of the range of mountains at Point Calivigny, about five miles from St. George, till it reaches the leeward boundary, looses the rugged and precipitous features and deep bold shore (as seen on the leeward side), and consists of a level alluvial plain with numerous coral reefs. Rivers and Lakes. The rivers, as before observed, are numerous, but not large ; the principal are those of Great Bucolet, Duguisne, and x\ntoine on the windward, and St. John's and Beau Sejour, on the leeward. Several hot chalybeate and sulphurous springs exist, the former being the most numerous ; one of these* is very remarkable for its heat and strong metallic impregnation; the mercury rises to 86. and since the earthquake, of 1825, both the temperature and impregnation have been very sensibly increased. A hot spring in St. Andrew's parish emits considerable quantities of carbonic acid gas, possessing analogous qualities to the famous grotto del cane ; it contains iron and lime, and possesses a strong petrifactive quality. Some of the warm sulphur- ous springs in the hilly parishes of St. Mark and St. John's are hot enough to boil an egg. Near the centre of the * At Annaiulale in St. George's parish. 272 MOUN'TAIN FRESH WATER LAKE — GRENADA. island, at an elevation of 1,740 feet, amidst the mountain scenery, is situate the Grand Etang, an almost perfectly circular fresh water lake, two miles and a half in circum- ference, and fourteen feet deep,' with a bottom composed of a superstrature of soft mud, arising from decayed vegetable substances, (especially Loti, which grow in great profusion around the margin, over a light cold argillaceous bed). Around this singular lake is a superb sylvan amphitheatre of moun- tains, clothed in all the verdant grandeur of a tropical forest. Another lake (Antoine) of nearly similar size, (covering sixty English acres), and form, is situate on the E. coast only half a mile from the sea, and but forty three feet above its level. It is about fifty feet in depth, having no communication with the sea, constantly increasing towards the centre, in the shape of an inverted hollow cone, and increasing in size for the last sixty years : from these circumstances, and the for- mation of rocks, and the quantity of scoriae found near its brink, there is every reason to suppose it the crater of an exhausted volcano. The inhabitants state that there are subterraneous communications between this lake and different parts of the island, and that during the great eruption of the SoufFriere in St. Vincents, in 1812, the waters of Lake Antoine were not only in continual agitation and undulation, but that considerable quantities of lava and sulphur were thrown upon the surface of the water from beneath. On the S. shore, near Point Salines, there are extensive salt ponds. Division. This island is divided into six parishes or districts, * the principal whereof (St. George,) , contains the capital of that name, and the fortifications and military posts of Richmond Hill, Fort King George, Hospital Hill, and Cardigan Heights ; it is also the chief sea-port, the residence of the Governor, and the station of the Courts of Judicature, &c. The district is situate on the S. and W. part of the * Sts. Patrick, Andrew, John, Mark, David and George. The three first named are the least mountainou', and the most productive in sugar, cocoa and coffee. St. John and Mark are mountainous ; and the two latter named rather less so. PARISHES, 8cC. OF GRENADA. 273 island, embracing twenty-six square miles, and extending along the King's high road, eleven miles, and twenty-eight chains from the river Douce to the river Chemin. It has twenty-eight sugar estates, twenty coffee settlements, and eight coffee plantations. The population of the capital and parish is about 10,000. St. David's lies towards the S. E., and forms several points and some bays capable of receiving small craft ; it extends from the river Chemin to the river Crochu, nine miles and fifty chains along the King's high road, and contains twelve sugar and several provision estates. St. Andreivs, situate on the E. side, extends from the river Crochu to the river Antoine, eleven miles and sixty-six chains along the high road, it comprises the town and port of Gren- ville, formerly called La Baye, and contains thirty-seven sugar plantations, and eight coffee and cocoa settlements. St. Patrick, situate on the N. E., containing sixteen square miles, extends nine miles and forty-four chains along the high road from the river Antoine to the river Duguesne. In this parish is the town of St. Patrick, formerly, and now known by the name of Sauteurs ; it contains twenty-six of the richest sugar plantations in the island. St. Mark, the smallest and least considerable in the island, is situate on the N. W, extending four miles and forty-three chains along the high road, from the river Duguesne to the river Maran, which separates it on the S. side from the parish of St. John. St. JoJms, on the W. side, extends from the river Maran, to the river Douce, six miles and thirty-six chains ; Charlotte town is situate in this parish, which is the next in magnitude and population to the town of St. George. It contains sixteen sugar estates, and eleven cocoa and coffee settlements. St. George, the capital, is situate within an amphitheatre of hills,* with a good harbour in front. The houses are well and taste- fully built of stone or brick, with sashed windows and tiled * Were it not for the military works on Richmond Hill, which are seen at a great distance, it would be difficult to ascertain from the sea where George town and harbour are placed, but on approaching the base of the fortified hills an opening is discerned into a spacious and excellent harbour. VOL. II. T 274 ST. George's the capital of Grenada. roofs, witli the streets well ventilated, and a spacious hand- some square in the centre, and the shops equal to any in Oxford-street. The town is divided into upper and lower,* the latter, or carinage,-j- being principally occupied with stores, ship-yards, and wharfs. The population consists of 4,000, of whom 320 are whites and 2,000 free coloured. A recent visitor says that Grenada with its azure sky, cloud capped mountains, and verdant slopes, well merits to be entitled the gem of the ocean. A town of white and gay looking houses, occupies a rocky peninsula, projecting into a clear bay; the spire of a church rises on the isthmus, and Fort George, and Hospital Fort, with flag staffs, on which are displayed waving signals, look down on the harbour from their commanding heights. Behind a point, numerous vessels are seen, sheltered from every wind. The fortifications of Richmond heights, far above and beyond the town, occupy the back ground in the picture. In the country, on the slopes of the hills, are orange groves and palm trees, plantations and cultivated fields, mound and dale, through which numerous streams are con- stantly rushing to the sea. The dependencies of Grenada are, the island of Carriacou, and such of the small islands called Grenadines,]: as lay be- tween it and Grenada. Carriacou constitutes a parish, con- taining, according to estimate, 6,913 acres of land ; it is * The streets leadine^ from the one to the other are extremely rujfged and steep. Constitution Hill, leadin<]f to the market-place, is at an an^le not fur removed from the perpendicular. t The carinage of Grenada is one of the best that can be conceived both for the convenience and securing of shipping : it is completely land-locked ; there is a suflScient depth of water and good holding-ground ; it is protected by the batteries on shore, and it is exempt from hurricanes. The harbour is said to be capable of containing 1,000 ships, of 350 tons each, secure from storms. \ These are a cluster of isles, of more or less extent, between St. Vin- cent and Grenada ; the largest are Becquia, Canuan, Urion and Carriacou : the last named alone dependent on Grenada ; many are inhabited, and several well cultivated, producing small quantities of sugar, rum, molasses, cotton, fruits, vegetables, poultry, live stock, &c. in grent abundance. CARIACOU — GEOLOGY OF GRENADA. 275 about nineteen miles in circumference. In the town of Hills- borough is a church and rectory. The island is, in general, fertile, and well cultivated ; and the successful mode of the manage- ment of slaves is amply manifested in their constant increase. Cotton was formerly the chief article of cultivation, and about 1,000,0001b. was annually exported. Eight of the principal estates are now cultivated in sugar ; and the average produce of that article in a good season, is upwards 2,000,000 lbs. The island is however greatly exposed to suffer from droughts, which mars the best efforts of industry. The chief cause of this calamity is supposed to be the want of wood, which has gradually become exhausted, without proper means having been used to renew it by planting. A society has lately been established for the sole purpose of remedying this defect • and it is to be hoped, that a few years will reward their exer- tions, by producing more regularity in the seasons. Geology. The geology of the island * is very complicated and irregular ; the mountains, and different parts of the low lands, so far as they have been examined, consist of strata, or rather mingled portions of red and grey sand-stone, gray- wacke — irregular alternations of hornblende, hard argil- laceous schist, and a variety of gneis. In various spots (as at Richmond Hill) an imperfect species of granite, or nodules of the same, interbedded in a coarse loose red sand-stone are fre- quently met with, and sometimes in argillaceous schist ; a very coarse porphyry is also sometimes seen ; immediately behind Richmond Hill, on the estate of Mount Parnassus, limestone is found, and quarry was at one time was worked for agricultural purposes). Basaltic rocks are met with on the N. W. coast, and it is said magnesian limestone also. At Point Salines (the extremity of the island) fullers-earth, of the very finest quality, is procurable in abundance ; and at La Fortime, in the parish of St. Patrick, numerous specimens of the natural magnet; sulphur, in its native state, but not crystallized, is almost every where met with. In fine, it may be said that * Afcordiiig to Dr. Simpson in his Report to the Army Medical Board. 27G SINGULAR GEOLOGICAL AI PLAR ANCKS. the great mass of mountains consist of sandstone,* greywacke, hornblende, and argillaceous schist, but the stratification is so diversified, and the face of the country so rugged and abrupt, as to bid defiance to any regular definition. In one place they are horizontal, in another vertical, and in almost all they are suddenly and abruptly intersected by each other — appearing as if they had been separated and again mingled together by some great convulsion of nature. One remarkable cliiF on the river St. John, about one mile and a half from St. George's, presents a curious arrangement, which Dr. Simpson is inclined to ascribe to volcanic origin; immediately under the soil is a stratum of pudding stone — to that succeeds one of iron pyrites (exhibiting regular prisms), then one of alluvial formation, and lastly one of brown sand- stone ; in some of the less elevated situations, the strata are extremely thin, numerous, and more regular ; in one clifF, near Government House, (not more than twenty-five feet high,) are seen running from S. E. to N. W., at a very obtuse angle with the horizon, at least sixty distinct strata of white, grey and brown sand-stone, alternating with loose sand and gravel, and near the surface mixed with alluvial soil. No shells are found in any of these formations ;-|- but the red sand-stone of Grand Mai and CaUevigyiy, in the parish of St. George (which is much used for building), is thickly studded with beautiful crystals of carburet of iron ; and in the Callevigny sand-stone ve- getable remains, such as the leaves and stalks of trees, are not uncommon. The soil varies with the external features of the country ; in the low lands, consisting of rich black mould on a substratum of light-coloured clay, while in the high and central situations the soil is of a dingy red or brick colour. Climate. Locality, as may be supposed, influences mate- rially the temperature and health of Grenada ; S2 F. may be * The bed of the sea on the S. W, point of the island is composed of phosphate of lime or a species of coraliiiie, but its effects are not observ- able on the surface of the water. t Neither the sandstone, nor the very imperfect species of granite found effervesce with acids. riJMATE ANIMAL KINGDOM, &C. 277. considered the medium heat throughout the year in the low country ; but m the high lands the mercury, which at St. George, stands at 86, will be ten degrees lower at the Grand Etang at the same moment. The quantity of rain which falls is very considerable, and throughout the year showers are felt : hurricanes are comparatively mild and infrequent, but earth- quakes, or shocks, are sometimes felt. The climate is much im- proved, in common with the whole of the West Indies of late years. (For yearly range of therm.ometer vide St. Vincent's). Animal Kingdom. As in all the West India Islands, the animals of Grenada are few and uninteresting to the naturalist. It is a matter of dispute whether even the monkey be a native ; black snakes are common, but almost harmless ; scorpions and centipedes abound, but their bite is mild and little re- garded ; the principal annoyance is from that species of ant called /brw?c« omnivora ; it is recorded in the island that at a former period these minute creatures threatened the destruc- tion of the colony ; they were in such myriads as to form bridges of each other's bodies across the largest streams, and to extinguish the fires kindled in the fields for their destruc- tion ; a reward of £20,000. was offered in vain by the legis- lature for any plan that would ensure their destruction ; his terrible (Egyptian) plague, after baffling human in- vention for its suppression, was only finally destroyed by the hurricane in 1780.* The Ornithology of Grenada is similar * This extraordinary plague was termed the sui^ar ant, and described by Sir Hans Sloane as tlie formica ficsca minima antennis longissimis. They are of an ordinary size, a slender shape, a dark red colour, remark- able for the quickness of their motions ; but are distinguished from any other species, chiefly by the sharp acid taste which they yield when applied to the tongue, and the strong sulphurous smell which they emit when rubbed together between the palms of the hands. Their numbers have often been so immense as to cover the roads for the space of several miles ; and so crowded in many places that the prints of the horses' feet were distinctly marked amongst them till filled by the surrounding multitudes ; they were never seen to consume or carry off any vegetable sul)stance what- ever, but always laid hold of any dead insect or animal substance that came in their way. Every kind of cold victuals, all species of vermin, particu- 278 EXTRAORDINARY ANT PLAGUE OF GRENADA. to that of the other islands, but with rather less numerous varieties of birds. The rivers, or rivulets, are plentifully supplied with fish, — such as snapper, mullet, cray-fish, eels, pike, 8cc.* Vegetable Kingdom. The descriptions given in the Guyana and Jamaica Chapters answers for Grenada, and the fruits and vegetables,-)- which for their seasons will be found larly rats, and even the sores of the negroes were exposed to their attacks. But they were decidedly injurious l)y constructing' their nests among the roots of the lime, lemon, orange trees and sugar canes, and so obstructing their growth as to render the plants sickly and unproductive. A premium of ^20,000 from tlie pul)lic treasury was offered to the discoverer of any effectual method of destroying them, and the principal means employed were poison and fire. By mixing arsenic and corrosive sublimate with animal substances, myriads were destroyed ; and the slightest tasting of the poison rendered them so outrageous as to devour one another. Lines of red-hot charcoal were laid in their way, to which they crowded in such numbers as to extinguish it with their bodies ; and holes full of fire were dug in the cane grounds, which were soon extinguished by heaps of dead. But while the nests remained undisturbed, new progenies appeared as nu- merous as ever, and the only effectual check which they received was from the destructive hurricane of 1780, which, by tearing up altogether, or so loosening the roots where they nestled as to admit the rain, almost extir- pated the whole race, and pointed out the frequent digging up and con- suming by fire these stools and roots in which they take refuge, as the best preventative of their future increase. * The prices of provisions established by the magistrates, and settled by the Market Act, in 1831 was — beef, prime pieces, per lb. 2s , all others, do., 1*. 9d. ; veal, ditto, 2*. ; goat or kid, ditto, 1*. 9d. ; turtle, ditto, 1*. 3d. . hawksbill, ditto, \s. 9d. ; fish, large, ditto, \s. ; jacks, three to the lb. 9d.; ditto small and sprats, 6d. ; milk, pure, per quart. Is. These are currency prices (vide Monetary System). t In 1700, more than twenty years after the sovereignty had been vested in the crown of France, there were found on the whole island only sixty- four horses, 569 horned cattle, three plantations of sugar, and fifty-two of indigo. About fourteen years afterwards, however, an active commercial intercourse was opened \vith the island of Martinique, cultivation was rapidly extended, and notwithstanding the interruption which these im- provements sustained by the war in 1744, Grenada was found in 1753 to contain 2,298 horses or mules, 2,556 horned cattle, 3,278 sheep, 902 goats, 331 hogs, 83 sugar plantations, &c. ; and in 1762, when it surrendered to AGRICULTURAL PRODUCE OF EACH PARISH. 279 under St, Vincents equally applicable to the island under consideration. The principal vegetable staples are sugar, cocoa, coffee and cotton;* and the following return shews the Produce made in Grenada and the Grenadines in 1830. Parishes and Island. Sugar. Molasses. Coffee. Cocoa. lbs. 3,179,916 958,2;fi 913,24; f),214,3.->0 6,756,021 1,853,443 Island of Carriacou j 2,225,700 Total.. 22,100,953 Parish of St. George . . . Mark's . . . John Patrick . . . Andrew's . David Gallons. 122,422 34,533 29,450 278,891 303,592 114,550 9,996 Gallons. 56,382 11,784 7,880 3,997 24,955 6,368 144,313 890,434 255,679 Ihs. 9,839 5,287 7,852 500 1,500 1,144 lbs. 20,022 125,454 148,225 39,670 4,534 lbs. 7,139 600 90,055 26,122 I 337,903 I 97,804 I I Population. We have already seen how the unoffending native inhabitants were destroyed. In 1700 there were but 151 whites, 53 blacks, or mulattoes, and 525 slaves. In 1753 there were 1262 whites, 1 "J 5 free negroes, and 1 1,991 slaves ; the next data shews that, in 1827, the island contained 29,168 mouths, namely, of free whites, 834, free blacks and coloured, 3,892 — Total, 4,726 ; slaves agricultural, 21,652, slaves domestics and artizans, 2,790 — Total, 24,442. The following return shews the British arms, it is said to have yielded annually, together with its de- pendencies, the Grenadines, a quantity of clay and muscavado sugar, equal to 11,000 hogsheads, of fifteen cwt. each, and 27,000 lbs. of indigo. * Dr. Hancock informs me that he found a very singular animal flower, (or Zoophyte,) inhabitnig the side of tbe rocky wall that lines the carinage, next to the town, about two feet below the surface of the water, and con- sisting of a worm encased in a cylindric tube, fastened at the end to the rock, and throwing out its rays or tentacula at the other or outward end ; the rays when extended standing in a sort of funnel shape ; the flower bearing an exact resemblance to the purple passi floras or granadilla (pas- sion flower) ; when fully expanded, this flower is peculiarly sensitive of the approach of any thing towards it, and it is next to impossible to ob- tain one in that state, as it is immediately retracted, (something in the manner of a snail when its horns are touched) even on the undulation of the water, within its tubular shell. Whether this shell is separable from the rock at the will of the inmate, has not yet been thoroughly ascertained, conflicting accounts being given. It is evidently one of that genus called TuBULARiA by Linnaeus, of the order Zoophyta, and which are designated as composite animals rfiorcsc'mg like vegetables. 280 POPULATION OF GRENADA — WHITE AND COLOURED. the Population of Grenada and the Grenadines, December 31st, 1832:— Free, White* and Coloured. Males, {Females Slaves. Males. Females Total Males. Aliens Total and Females. Strangers. Town of St. George. . . . Parish of St. do John Marks. . . . Patrick . . . Andrew.. . David's. . . Island of Carriacou Total. 922 1,349 311 348 186 235 71 60 151 88 238 al- 124 ios 207 256 Ii942 1,086 646 2,042 2,3-7 900 1,607 859 2,067 1,068 720 2,239 2,430 049 1,753 2,210 I or ,758 11,386 12,085 ,708 ,253 .272 717 ,193 ,615 ,024 ,814 2,209 2,415 1,303 780 2,327 2,747 1,054 2,009 96 65 28 2 12 20 9 18 13,596 14,843 The white population was, in 1829, Town of St. George, 177 males, 107 females ; parish of ditto, 90 males, 28 females; — St. John's, 38 males, 34 females ; — St.* Mark, 25 males, 10 females ; St. Patrick, 84 males, 3 females ; — St. Andrew, 94 males, 8 females ; — St. David's, 38 males, 1 1 females ; — Ca- riacou Isle, 50 males, 4 females ; — Total, 596 males, 205 females: — total, coloured males, 1,562; females, 2,224. The progressive decrease of the Slave Population was, in — Increase Decrease by s by Birth. Death. Hi >.o •=m Males. Females. 1 -a •3 1 i 1 IS 1) £ Q 1817 .. 13,737 14,192 28,029 212 239 451 478 424 902 38 1818 .. 13,328 14,087 27,415 305 352 657 538 532 1,070 54 1819 .• 13,155 13,905 27,060 339 375 714 585 584 1,169 PQ 1820 .. 13,007 13,802 26,899 311 330 641 485 410 895 41 1821 ,. 12,398 13,269 25,667 352 330 682 506 422 928 63 1822 .. 12,355 13,231 25,586 371 .350 721 364 316 680 63 1823 .. 12,258 13,052 25,310 361 358 719 308 426 824 104 1824 .. 12,101 12,871 24,972 353 324 677 392 332 724 97 1825 . 12,057 12,840 24,897 337 340 677 399 360 759 122 1826 . . 11,806 12,685 24,581 320 340 660 397 307 794 91 1827 .. 11,841 12,632 24,473 369 335 704 360 300 669 79 1828 .. 11,777112,565 24,342 355 332 687 376 337 713 95 1829t .. 11,711 12,434 24,145 377 350 7.36 372 35S 730 95 1830 .. 11,572 12,306 23,878 385 349 734 503 47fi 979 71 1831 .. 11,432 li,172 23,604* 348 336 684 500 428 928 113 • The slave population was rated at thirty-five tlioiisiind in 177I>. t Of Africans, malc.^, 2;22fi; females, 2,0/5. government, laws, church, schools, &c. 281 Government, Legal, Military, and Ecclesiastical. The people are ruled by a Lieutenant-Governor, Council and House of Assembly, whose powers are similar to those des- cribed under Jamaica, &c. The Council consists of twelve members, and the Assembly of twenty-six. A freehold, or life estate of fifty acres in the country, and of £50. house rent in the capital, qualifies for a representative. An estate often acres in fee, or for life, or a rent of £10. in any of the country towns ; and a rent of £20. out of any freehold, or life estate in the capital, gives a vote in the election of the represen- tatives. The law courts, besides those of Chancery, in which the Governor presides, are the Court of Grand Session of the Peace, held twice a year, in which the person first named in the Commission of the Peace presides ; the Court of Common Pleas, in which a professional judge, with a salary of £600. presides ; the Court of Exchequer, lately fallen into disuse ; the Court of Admiralty, and the Court of Error, composed of the Governor and Council, for trying appeals. In all cases the common statute law of England is the rule of justice, unless when particular laws of the island interfere. Since its restoration to Great Britain, in 1783, a Protestant clergy have been established by law. Four clergymen are allotted to the whole, and each is provided with an annual stipend of £330. currency, £60. for house rent, and a considerable portion of valuable glebe land, which had formerly been ap- propriated to the support of the Romish clergy, for whose benefit a part of the grant is still reserved. There are eight places of worship, capable of containing; 2,870 persons ; and the expenses of the church establishment to the colonists is about £1 ,.500. sterling per annum; that of five public schools is £430. Finance. Colonial taxes and duties, (payable at the Trea- sury, by virtue of acts of the legislature), are levied on all wines imported, (wines for the use of his Majesty's service excepted), per pipe, £3. 6s. In bottles per dozen, 2s. 3cl. on all brandy and gin, per gallon, I8s. ; on each and every saddle liorse, or mule, £3. 6s. ; for every £100. of actual 282 REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE OF GRENADA. rental of houses, stores, buildings, and sheds, (not used in the manufacture of produce,) or of the estimated rental thereof, when occupied by the proprietor, £3. ; on each and every slave, 18*.; on every i'lOO. value of produce, grown or manufactured in the year 1831, estimated as follow: — Mus- covado sugar at 40*. per 100 lbs. ; Rimi, 2s. per gallon ; Molasses, Is. 6d. do.; Cotton, Gd. per lb. ; Coffee, 1*. do.; Cocoa, 4d. do. ; £3. per cent. Harbour duty on all vessels clearing, per ton, 4t/. ; canal duty on all vessels clearing, per ton, 2d. Monetary System. Each of our W. I. settlements, it will be observed, has almost a distinct currency, at least few are alike, the following is the standard table for Grenada currency, established (by proclamation) in 1798. COINS. Weight. Value in Sterling. Value in Currency, dts. grs. £. s. (1. dols. bitts. Joe* 8 12 3 12 8 . , Joe 7 12 3 6 7 4 Pistole . . . 4 6 1 16 . , 4 , , Moidore . . 6 2 9 6 5 6 Guinea . . . 5 2 5 5 , . Dollar.... 17 9 . . 12 Bitt • • 9 1 The British and Colonial currency, established by procla- mation in May, 1797, consisted of British half-crown, 6*. Sd.\ shilling, 2s. Gd. ; sixpence, 1*. 3d. ; Colonial Moneta, marked IV. 2s. Gd; VIII. 1*. 3c/.; XVI. 7^d Commerce. In 1776 the exports from the island and its de- pendencies were 1 4,0 1 2, 1 571bs, of muscovado, and 9,273,6071bs. of clayed sugar; 818,700 gallons of rum; 1,827,106 lbs. of • A Joe, value £3. \2s. has a G stamped in the middle of the face side. A Joe, value ^3. 6*. has a G stamped in three places near the edge of the face side. When a Joe is plugged, the initials of the workman's name are stamped upon the plug. MONETARY SYSTEM AND COMMERCE, 283 cofFee; 457,7191bs. of cocoa; 91,943 lbs. ofcotton; 27,638 lbs. of indigo ; and some smaller articles, the whole of which at a mo- derate computation was worth at the ports of shipping, 600,000/. sterling. The sugar was the produce of one hundred and six plantations, worked by 18,293 negroes, which gives rather more than a hogshead of muscovado sugar of 16cwt. from the labour of each negro ; a return, which Mr. Edwards affirms to be unequalled by any other British island in the West Indies, except St.Christopher's. In 1787 the exports were 175,548 cwts. of sugar; 670,390 gallons of rum; 8,812 cwts. of coffee; 2,062,427 lbs. of cotton, and 2,810 lbs. of indigo. In 1831 the principal articles of export were, sugar 11,908 hgds, rum, 6,634 pchs. ; molasses, 2,464 phs. ; cofFee, 6,103 bags. The total value of the exports was £118,761, and oi iinports £81,835.* * Principal Exports from Grenada (except Cocoa.) Grenada Colonial Revenue and Ex- penditure, from 1821 to 1831, in pounds sterling. Years. Su^ar. Hds. Rum, Pns. Molasses Pns. Coflfee Bas!S. Years. Gross Revenue Expenditure. Civil. Military. 5,263 15,848 15,441 12,695 20,171 13,268 11,908 11,288 8,663 7,964 8,358 7,730 9,464 2,777 6,634 3,799 1,869 2,945 2,498 1,403 3,216 864 2,464 222 147 11 176 lbs. 17,120 28,320 31,504 6,T63 Total. 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 11,325 12,302 10,360 13,059 12,740 16,658 12,473 13,810 12,443 12,268 12,513 10,512 11,592 8,722 8,311 11,455 15,273 12,466 11,304 11,302 11,132 12,630 800 555 720 1,704 960 659 727 838 822 761 719 11,312 12,147 9,442 10,015 12,415 15,931 13,193 12,142 11,954 12,722 13,340 28 1 CHAPTER VI. ST. VINCENT'S. LOCALITY — PHYSICAL ASPECT — VOLCANOES GEOLOGY — CLIMATE VEGETABLE KINGDOM AND PRODUCE POPULATION FINANCES COMMERCE GOVERNMENT, &.C. &C. Locality. This most beautiful of the Caribbee Islands, about eighteen and a half miles long, and eleven broad, con- taining 84,286 acres, is situate in VS. 10. 15. N. Lat ; 60. 37. 57. W. Long., nearly equidistant from Grenada and Barbadoes. General History. St. Vincent's* was discovered by Columbus, during liis third voyage, on the 22nd day of January, 1498, but it does not appear that he took any formal possession of it ; the native inhabitants, the Caribs, being very numerous and warlike. In 1672, this island, with Barbadoes, St. Lucia, and Dominica, was included in one government by King Charles II., although no steps were taken to occupy St. Vincent, unless occasional visits, both by English and French, for the purpose of obtaining wood and Avater may be deemed such. About 1675, a ship from Guinea, with a cargo of slaves, was wrecked either on this island or on Bequia, and a number of the negroes escaped into the woods ; these in- termingled with the natives, and hence as it is supposed ori- ginated the black Caribs. In 1719, the French sent over some settlers from Martinico, afewof whom succeeded in establishing themselves in the leeward part of the island. In 1723, George I. granted this island and St. Lucia to the Duke of Montague, who made a feeble attempt to take possession of it, but his expedition failed ; and, by the treaty of Aix la Chapelle, in 1748, it was declared neutral, and the ancient proprietors left in unmolested possession. The French, however, conti- * Thus called from the day of its discovery, being Sf. /'inceuCs day in the Spanish calendar. EARLY HISTORY OF ST. VINCENT's. 285 nued in their settlements until 1762, when it was taken ])y General Monckton and Admiral Rodney ; and in 1763, by the peace of Paris, the island was ceded in perpetuity to Great Britain, without ;«McA consideration for the native proprietors. The lands were directed to be sold to defray the expenses of, the war, and 20,538 acres produced £162,584. sterling. In 1772, a war with the Caribs commenced, which was termi- nated by a treaty in 1773, when certain lands were allotted them. In 1779 the island was taken by a small body of troops-from Martinico, who were joined by the Caribs, which circumstance, coupled with unfortunate political differences, caused the surrender to be made without a struggle. The conquerors, hoAvever, made no alteration in the government, probably contemplating only a temporary possession. In 1780 the dreadful hurricane occurred, which destroyed the church and a great proportion of the buildings in the island, besides occasioning serious loss to the planters. St. Vincent was re- stored to Great Britain at the general peace in 1 783 ; at which time it contained sixty-one sugar estates, besides other small plantations of cotton, coffee, and cocoa. In 1795 the doctrines of liberty and equality, which prevailed in France, were disseminated in the West India Islands, through the infernal agency of Victor Hugues, whose emissaries excited the Caribs, and some of the French inhabitants, into an insur- rection, which continued for upwards of two years. Many san- guinary contests took place, with various success, which can- not be detailed within the limits of this work ; but, ultimately, by the judicious measures of Sir Ralph Abercrombie and General Hunter, the French were subdued, and the Caribs removed to Ruattan, an island in the Bay of Honduras. The devastation occasioned by the enemy cost the proprietors at least, one-third of the value of their properties ; but uninter- rupted tranquillity has since prevailed, and the fine tract of land in Charlotte parish, called the Carib country, consisting of 5,000 acres, has been put into cultivation, and greatly in- creased the prosperity of the island. In 1812 the island suffered from an eruption of the Souf- 286 DESCRIPTION OF THE SOUFFRIERE. friere volcanic mountain, which had been tranquil for nearly a century (from 1718). It was about 3,000 feet high, with a crater half a mile in diameter, and 500 feet in depth ; in the centre was a conical hill, 200 feet in diameter, and 300 in height, the lower half skirted with luxuriant vegetation, the upper with pure virgin sulphur ; various evergreens and aromatic shrubs, covered in exuberant fertility, the sides of the capacious crater, the interior of which presented a scene of Alpine seclusion and peacefulness that can scarcely be imagined. From the fissures of the cone, a thin white smoke exuded, occasionally tinged with a light blue flame ; at the base were two small lakes, the one sulphureous and aluminous, the other pure and tasteless. At noon on the 27th of April, thirty days after the destruction of the Caraccas by an earthquake, and during the connno- tions in the vallies of the Missisippi and. of the Ohio, a severe concussion of the earth took place, and a black column of smoke burst from the crater, which was followed by volumes of favillae, which continued for three days. An account written at the time says, that * on the 30th April 1812, the reflection of the rising sun on this majestic body of curling vapours was sublime beyond imagination; it afterwards assumed a more sulphureous cast, and in the course of the day a feruginous and sanguine appearance, with much livelier action in the ascent,* a more extensive dilation, as if almost * A cousin of mine (Captain George Palmer Hawkins) who was sta- tioned with his re^jiment at Barbadoes when this eruption took place, informs me that, for four hours, the island was obscured in nearly total darkness, with the dense and unceasinc^ fall of (favilhe) ash-coloured dust, which covered the whole of Barbadoes (distant full sixty miles from St. Vincent) to the depth of several inches, and proved a most valuable fertilizing^ mould to the then almost worn out island. The noise of the eruption was thought to be that of hostile fleets, and Captain Hawkins was laughed at for supposing that the dust and thunder could proceed from an island siwfi/ miles to leeward. When we consider the ([uantity of ashes which fell at Barbadoes, and that many ships at sea had their decks covered with them, we may suppose that the - is a list of the Governors, Lieutenant-Governors, &c. who have administered the government of St. Vincent since the cession of the colony to Great Britain in 17G3. — Brig.-Gen. R. Melville, Captain-General and Governor-in-Chief in and over the Southern Charibl)ee I.'jicnds of St. Vincent, Grenada, Dominica, and Toha!>o, I7C^; Brij^-.-Gcu. \V. L. Leyborne, Gov. of the Southern PHYSICAL ASPECT AND GEOLOGY OF ST. VIXCEXT's. 2S9 Physical Aspect and Geology. The mountains of St. Vincent are bold, sharp, and abrupt in their terminations, with deep intervening romantic glens,* and bound by a lofty and rocky coast. The connected chain of high mountains runs from N. to S., clothed with immense trees, breaking into su- bordinate masses towards the sea, of a less elevated descrip- tion, and intersected by deep ravines in the interior, which gra- dually widen on the approach to the shore, and become vallies capable of cultivation, as they are generally well supplied with water; this feature is principally descriptive of the north- western side of the island. On the north-east the surface is more level and less broken, and there is a large tract of land at the base of the SoufFriere mountain, gradually declining towards the sea, which forms an extensive plain of upwards of six thousand acres, and is the most pro- ductive land in the colony. The soil in the vallies is a rich tenacious loam, and occasionally a fine black mould; on the higher regions it assumes a more sandy character, and is less fertile; the lands adjoining the SoufFriere are also clay at the bottom, but the surface having been covered with the sand ejected by the volcano in 1812, it presents the feature of a loose porous superficies. The character of this island, Mr. Shepherd f thinks, is decidedly volcanic, traces of strata which have undergone the action of fire, are visible every where, and huge masses of rock, dis- placed from their original situations, indicate the powerful Charibbee Islands, as above, 1771; V. Morris, Esq. Gov. 1776; E. Lin- coln, Esq. Gov. 1783 ; J. Seton, Esq. Gov. 1787 ; W. Bentinck, Esq. Gov. 1798; D. Ottley, Esq. Pres. 1799; H. W. Bentinck, Esq. Pres. 1805; Sir G. Beckwith, K. B. Gov. 1806 ; R. Paul, Esq. Pres. 1807 ; Sir C. Brisbane, Knight, Gov. 1812; R. Paul, Esq. Pres. 1816; Sir C. Brisbane, K. C. B. Gov. 1817 J Sir W. J. Struth, Kt. Pres. 1829; Right Hon. Sir G. F. Hill, Bart. Gov. 1831. * The delicious Valley of Bucament is five miles long and one wide, entirely open to the sea, with lofty mountains at the upper part and sides — and throughout the vale a clear and rapid river. f Fide Historical Account of St. Vincent's, (principally in reference to the Carib war) published by Ridgway, Piccadilly. VOL. II. U 290 DIVISION INTO PARISHES. agency which alone could have effected such a change; there is not a prmiitive rock in the island, an opinion which is sup- ported by branches of trees and other substances, being frequently discovered in large masses of rock at considerable depths, which must at one time have been in a state of fusion; a remarkable instance is to be seen at the tunnel at Grand Sable. Division. The island is divided into five parishes. Saint George, Charlotte, Saint Andrew, Saint David, and Saint Patrick. Within the first, stands the capital, Kingstown, — which is situated in 13. 8 N. Lat. Gl. 17 W. Long., near the S. W. extremity of the island, about a mile along the shore cf a deep and beautiful bay, protected by a battery on the S., or Cane Garden Point, and by Fort Cliarlotte* on the N. W. which are the chief defences of the island. The fort (distant one mile from Kingstown in a direct line, and two miles by the circuitousness of the road,) is situated on a rock above the level of the sea, and well fortified, it contains barracks for 600 men, and has thirty-four pieces of artillery of different descriptions, besides several outworks, for the protection of detached buildings. The town, behind which the mountains gradually rise in a semi-circle, terminating at the greatest height in Mount Saint Andrew, consists of three streets, intersected by six others. There are about 300 of the larger sized houses, the lower stories of which are in general built with stone or brick, and * The road to Fort Charlotte is very steep — so much so, that in looking' from the mess-room windows, the sea is seen perpendicularly below, with the Island of Becquia and the Grenadines in the distance ;— Old Woman's Point, forming- the opposite horn of the Bay of Kingstown and Dorset- shire Mill, about two miles of gradual ascent to windward from the town of Kingston, which it overlooks with an imposing aspect. Tlie garrison was formerly stationed here, but latterly removed to the opposite pro- montorj% as a more commanding site. Berkshire Hill, on which is placed Fort Charlotte, is a promontory or high projecting neck of land over- hanging the sea, and nearly perpendicular on three of its sides. It com- pletely commands the Town and Bay of Kingston, and can be easily separated from both should it be necessary to cut oflF the intercourse. APPEARANCE OF KINGSTOWN ST. VINCENt's. 291 the upper of wood, with shingled roofs, while the close ad- joining sugar plantations form (particularly when viewed from the harbour,) a very beautiful prospect. The public build- ings are substantial, but not elegant. The church is a large heavy brick building, capable of containing 2,000 persons, it has an excellently toned organ, a splendid chandelier, and very handsome pulpit, and bishop's throne.* The Court House is built of stone, and contains two rooms on the upper story appropriated for the sittings of the Council and Assembly, with two Committee Rooms; below the Courts of Justice are held. Here also are the Public Offices of the Registrar and Marshal ; this building stands in front of the Market Place, and is inclosed with an iron railing; behind it the Gaol, the Cage and the Treadmill are placed. In the front close to the sea-side, stand the Market House, and the depot for the Militia Arms, The Wesleyan Missionaries have a commodious wooden Chapel, and the Romanists have commenced a brick Church.f * The expenses of this building, which v\as opened for divine service in 1820, amounted to upwards of .£'47,000 currency, of which Govern- ment contributed ^5,000 sterling, out of the purchase-money of the Carib lands. The old building was destroyed by the hurricane in 1780. f The famed botanic garden, about a mile from Kingston, occupies thirty acres of ground, in the form of an ol)long square, the lower part level, but soon becoming a gradual ascent until it terminates in a steep hill, a beautiful mountain stream forming its northern boundary, near the upper part of the garden, and in the centre stands the Governor's house, commanding a splendid view — immediately below the capital of the island — in front the deep blue sea and the Grenadine isles — in the distance a magnificent vista, bounded on each side by a long and spacious avenue of lofty forest trees. The roads on the windward coast are tolerably good for thirty miles, their track in general is near to the sea-side, except in cases of high land, when it is necessary to pass along the indentations of the vallies. On the leeward coast, for a distance of twenty-three miles, they are much inferior, the hills being much higher, the circuity of the track is propor- tionally increased ; the latter are little frequented, the passage by sea in canoes being more easy and commodious. The highways are kept in ^2 NECESSITY OF LEAVING STANDING TREES, , Saint George's Parish extends from Kingstown north .-to the river Jambou, and contains 9,337 acres of land in .sugar estates; it has seven rivers capable of turning mills; the different ridges in this parish having been cleared of their wood by the earlier settlers, the clouds are attracted by the more lofty mountains in the interior ; and it has been deemed prudent to preserve the timber on an elevated situation, called the King's Hill,* from future destruction, by an especial Act of the Legislature. At three miles from Kingstown is the small town of Cal- liaqua, consisting of 59 houses, and 400 inhabitants, its chief attraction is the commodious harbour, and very convenient beach for shipping produce. There is a singularly insulated rock on the north western side, 260 feet above the level of the sea, on the top of which. Fort Duvernette is constructed; it is ascended by a staircase cut out of the solid stone. On Dorsetshire Hill there are barracks for troops, but in such a dilapidated state, as not to be habitable. Some distance above Calliagua, towards the interior is the Vigie, (or look ;Out) a very commanding situation. The different ridges are 'here concentrated into one elevation with three conical hills. repair by the proprietors of the estates who have adjoining- portions al- lotted thcui by an Act of the Legislature, on which they are required to expend an estimated quantity of labour, and for wliich they are allowed a certain sum from the treasury, on a certificate from the Way-wardens of the parish, who are nominated by the Justices at the February Sessions in each year. * Baron Humboldt's remarks on this subject ought to be deeply im- pressed on the mind of every proprietor, not only in the West Indies but in every country, more especially in a tropical climate. * By felling the trees -that cover the tops and sides of the mountains, men in every climate prepare at once two calamities for future generations, the want of fuel and the scarcity of water. \Miere forests are destroyed, as they are every where in America by the European planters with an imprudent pre- cipitation, the springs are entirely dried up or become less abundant, the beds of the rivers, remaining dry during a part of the year, are convert.e<^l into torrents whenever great rains fall on the heights.' — Pers. A'arrativt.; vol. iv. p. 142. TUNNELS THROUGH THE MOUNTAINS. 2D3 where the Caribs fixed their camp. Eastward is the very extensive valley of INIaniaqua, which has only one singvdar cleft, or opening, with almost perpendicular sides, through which the river Jambou flows to the sea.* Some persons have conjectured that this valley is an exhausted crater, which has been thus drained of its waters ; the position is too low to maintain this hypothesis, as the volcanic craters in all the Islands, are situated on the most lofty mountains. Charlotte Parish is bounded on the south by St. George's, and northerly by uncultivable lands, it contains 11,819 acres in cultivation, and that part of it called the Carib country, which was only partially settled in 1804, is the most pro- ductive in the Island. The southern part consists of a portion of General Monckton's grant of 4,000 acres, which he sold for £30,000. sterling, and which was subsequently disposed of in lots by the speculators. This parish is so well supplied with rivers, notwithstanding several were absorbed at the time of the eruption of the Souftrierej that all the mills are worked by water; and the estates are generally larger than in the other parishes.]- Saint Andrew's Pai'ish is the first on the leeward side ad-' joining the town, it contains 4,096 acres, and the vallies being narrower, the estates are small and more compact, neither is it so well supplied with water, except in Buccament Valley, which is one of the most extensive and fertile in the Island. * ' Here,' says ]\h-. Shepherd, ' is a majestic cabbage tree, (Areca olera- cea) which in 1814 was ascertained to be 156 high by trigonometrical mea- surement. This is considerably higher than Mr. Coleridge has admitted, though the existence of Ligon's 300 feet trees is by no means contended for.' t A tunnel of 200 feet long was cut through Mount Young in 1813, which greatly improved the means of communication with the newly- settled country ; and a stupendous work was afterwards undertaken by the owner of Grand Sable estate, in cutting another tunnel through the same mountain, lower down and nearer the sea, for the convenience of shipping the produce. The material to be perforated proved to be stone instead of terrass, as was expected — and 360 feet in length were accord- ingly blasted by drilling in the solid rock, at an expense of about i E . 1 l\ . 1 1 i e a > Sugar. Rum. Molasses. Coffee. Cocoa. a 3 3 lii ' (4 8 1 No. Hds. Pan Pun Lbs. , Lbs. Bales. No. Hds. Pun Pun Lb=. Lbs. Bales. 1801 ir,342 17,699 8702 1492 1818 20,817 19,43696722653 8,243 11,628 560 1802 17,4S4 19,317 9012 1322 1819 20,748 t 2123 11,052 10,744 139,013 1803 17,441 18,371 8929 1119 1820 20,582 16,6318873 2231 7,947 11,769 256 1804 20,294 17,235 8804 I660 12,400 5,516 890 1821 20,362 18,331 9797 4275 10,620 13,285 403 1805 19,647 20,981 9332 2851 13,086 1,681 1,493 1822 20,380 19,596 9630 8118 7,857 14,653 661 1806 19,672 20,224 8.341 3454 8,904 2,142 1,150 182320,07717,53447737572 9,553 9,120 644 1807 20,525 19,135 8102 2902 14,650 3,745 777 1824 20,135 18,549 5321 8712 13,743 23,110 628 1808'20,977 19,073 8518 2470 27,295 8,718 1,112 1825,20,025 20,271 5674 6461 8,707 19,269 416 1809 20,755,19,186 9369 1388 30,809 11,651 997 i 1826|19,869 119,591 5656 5570 6,990 26,173 533 1810,20,620 16,127 7591 1441 12,992 3,979 847 1 1827 19,P33 118,340 6205 7090 10,103 13,201 251 1811120,602 17,059 8519 198121,978 10,575 638 ' 1828 19,863 |21,I60 6627 3973 1,873 18,434 369 1812 20,544 115,872 8740 1078 13,713 4,297 669 1829 19,603 18,676 6542 2,572 12,216 337 1813 20,428 16,106 9383 534 14,649 5,162 742 1830 1 4360, 1 1814120,888,17,377 9329 1467 6,998 9,785 616 1831 13,365 S973 1 1,260 i 7,861 1815 20,833 17,917 9I8I 1732' 9,176 9,430 448 1832 1 I 1616 20,573 19,721 898512216 10,473 12,160 621 1833 1 1 1817 20,961 18,642 8612 1 12445 15,989 1 i 10,971 291 1834 i ' f The quantity of sugar, rum and molasses manufactured in the Gre- nadines are not included in the first three years of this return. The figures from 1801 to 1819, I derive from the official account published at St. Vincent in 1819; from 1820 to 1829 Mr. Shepherd's work is my authority; 18.'^l from the St. Vincent Almanack, converted into the denominations here used. SUGAR, RUM, &C. OF EACH PARISH. 299 Parishes and Islands. Sugar. Rum. Molasses. Cotton. Coffee. Cocoa.* Negroes on 1st January, 1831. Charlotte Parish St. George's do St. Andrew's do St. Patrick's do St. David's do The Grenadines Lbs. 9.689,619 6,849,236 2,514,392 2,152,648 1,970,868 1,277,7^7 Gallons. 270,603 193,853 67,034 .54,551 45,831 25,19- Gallons. 152,948 100,873 58,594 45,171 25,244 53,195 Lbs. 55,597 Lbs. 1,260 Lbs. 561 250 7,050 No. 6,837 5,284 1,558 1,747 1,612 2,317 Total. . 24,454,550 657,069 436,025 55,597 1,260 7,861 19,355 Population. The aborigines of the island were undoubt- edly the yellow Caribs, probably emigrants from Guyana.f When St. Vincent's was visited by Europeans, two distinct races of men were discovered ; they were of different origins, and their appearances and manners plainly corresponded with those of different portions of the globe. One of these tribes had evidently descended from the aborigines of the island, those of the other tribe were evidently intruders, and the great difficulty consists in accounting fairly and fully for their introduction. It is supposed that about 1G75, a ship carry- ing out negroes from that country for sale, foundered on the coast of Bequia, a small island near to Saint Vincent, and that the slaves who escaped from the wreck were received by the inhabitants as brethren. But this was not all, the proprietors of the island gave their daughters in marriage to these strangers, and the race which sprang from this mixture were called Black Caribs, having preserved more of the pri- mitive colour of their fathers, than the lighter hue of their mothers. The yellow Caribs are of a low stature, the black are tall and stout, and this doubly savage race speak with a degree of vehemence which seems like anger. At length some difference arose between these two classes, of which the French in Martinico resolved to avail themselves, and as is usual to profit by the ruin of both parties ; but the smallness of the numbers sent against the Black Caribs, and * Arrow-root, .3,763 lb.«i. t For a description of these people I refer to the chapter on British Gnvann. 300 EARLY HISTORY OF THE BLACK AND YELLOW CARIBS. the defection of the Yellow Carihs, who refused to supply such dangerous allies with any of the succours which they had promised them to act against their rivals, together with the impossibility of coming up with enemies who kept themselves concealed in the woods, were circumstances which combined to disconcert this rash and violent enterprize ; the Gallic in- vaders were therefore forced to reimbark, after losing many valuable lives: — but the triumph of the Black Caribs did not prevent their suing for peace, they even subsequently in- vited the French to come and live with them, swearing sincere friendship: the proposal was accepted, and in the year 1719 many of the French inhabitants of Martinico removed to St. Vincent's. When the French came, they brought their slaves with them to clear and till the ground; the Black Caribs, shocked at the idea of resembling persons who were degraded by slavery, and fearing that in process of time their own co- lour, which betrayed their origin, might be made a pretence for enslaving them, took refuge in the thickest part of the woods, and in order to create and perpetuate a visible distinc- tion between their race and the slaves brought into the island, and likewise in imitation of the practice of the Yellow Caribs, they compressed, so as to flatten, the foreheads of all their new born infants, and this was thereafter concluded as a token of their independence. The next generation thus became as it were, a new race, they gradually quitted the woods, erected huts, and formed little communities on the coast ; by degrees they claimed a portion of the territory possessed by the Caribs, and having learned the use of fire-arms, which they procured from the French traders, on being refused a friendly participation in the landed property, established themselves as a separate tribe, elected a chief, re-commenced hostilities against the Yellow Caribs, and by force brought their adver- saries to terms of accommodation, by which it was agreed to divide ecpially the lands situated on the leeward coast. It happened however, after this division, that the Black Caribs experienced a most mortifying disappointment, for most of the new planters from Europe, and from the French settle- FRENCH SETTLEMENTS ON ST. VINCENT's. 301 ments in the West Indies, landed and settled near the Yellow Caribs, where the coast is most accessible. This decided pre- ference occasioned a new war, in which the Yellow Caribs were always defeated, and at length obliged to retire to the windward parts of the island, some fled to the Continent, and some to Tobago, the few that remained lived separately from the blacks, who became the sole masters of all the lands on the leeward shore, assumed the right of conquerors, and obliged the European planters to re-purchase the lands, for which they had already paid the Yellow Caribs,* While these differences wei'e in progress, and while the French were gradually gaining a footing in the island, George the first granted it to the Duke of Montague, who in 1723, sent out a small armament to take possession, but the English on their arrival found the French influence under the appearance of protection so predominant, and the deter- mination of the natives to admit no Europeans to a perma- nent settlement there so fixed, that they were glad to abandon their alleged proprietorships ; and when the Duke, at a subse- quent period endeavoured to establish his claim before the Privy Council it was disallowed. Notwithstanding the difficulties created by Caribs, the French prevailed by means of continual reinforcements of men and money, and superior skill in agriculture and commercial affairs ; so that in less than twenty years, 800 whites, and 3,000 black slaves, were employed in the cultivation of commodities for exportation, which yielded a sum equal to £63,625, sterling. The expedition which was sent against Mar- tinico in 1762, under General Monckton and Admiral Rod- ney, subsequently captured St. Vincent's, and a war be- tween the British and Caribs soon followed. The result of several severe contests was (as stated under the general his- tory of the island) the final subjugation of the Yellow and * A Frenchman having^ produced to a Black Carib Chief a deed of land that he had purchased of a Yellow Carib, was told he did not know what the paper contained, but pointing to his own arrow, said if he did not give him the sum he demanded, he would set fire to and l)urn down his liouse that very night. Shepherd's ^V. Jliiceut. 305 POPULATION FROM 1735 TO 1831— WHITE AND BLACK. Black Caribs, and their deportation to the number of 5,080 from the island to Ruattan in Honduras Bay, after costing the colonists in expenses and losses £900,000. sterling, and a considerable sacrifice of European life.* The following shews the Population of St. Vincent and its Dependencies at several intervals : — Year. Negroes. Carib?. Whites. Coloured. Slaves.t 1735 6,000 4,000 __ ^_^ 1764 — — 2,104 7,414 1787 — — 1,450 300 11,853 1805 — — 1,600 450 16, .500 1812 — — 1,053 1,482 24,920 1825 ->. — 1,301 2,b24 23,780 1831 ~~ ~"~ ~~* —~ 22,997 Finance. The revenue of the island is stated by Mr. Shepherd at about £26,000 per annum, and raised by an annual tax act, by which assessments on all the staple commodities of the Island are made, and a proportionate per centage on the incomes of merchants and other persons, with a poll tax on unattached slaves ; Commissioners to carry the act into execution, are named for each parish, and the returns are directed to be given in to the Treasurer in January, from • For a very able and interestinir account of tbe Carib war vide Mr. Shepherd's History of St. Vincent before referred to. t The progressive increase or decrease of the slave population from 1817 to 1831 was,— Increase by Decrease by Birth. Death. er W , 6 01 > o ■a I a •3 1 "5 (i B •3 1 •3 s 3 1817 .. 12,743 12,475 25.213 • 1822 ,, 12,007 12,245 21,252 1,298 1,358 2,656 2,275 1,930 4,205 1825 .. n,6J5 12.095 23,7S0 918 934 1,852 1,157 ' 949 ! 2,206 1828 .. 11,583 12,116 23,699 939 S90 1.729 1.117 9OJ 1 2,120 1831 .. ll,2ld 11,781 22.997 919 662 1,-81 1,230 1,036 2,2«« FINANCIAL STATE OF THE COLONY. 303 whence tlie rates are calculated according to the estimated expences of the island, and submitted to the Assembly. The Colony derives no pecuniary assistance from Great Britain ; the garrison, the proportionate expence of the naval establishment, the packets, and the home salary of the Governor, form the only burthen, if such it can be called, sustained by the mother covuitry. The estimated expences of the Colony, for the year 1832, was, salaries to public officers, H. Ex. the Gov. 5,000/. ; Chief Justice, 1,200/. Attor.Gen.500/. ; Clerk of Council, 200/. : ditto of Assembly, 500/. ; Messenger and House-keeper, 200/. ; Clerk to the Magistrates, 50/. ; Register of Slaves, 250/. ; Treasurer, 1,200/. ; Colonial Agent, £350sterhng, 840/. ; Signalmen, 851. Clerk of the Market, 100/.; Overseer of Tread-mill, 150/.; Chief Constable, 300/.; Extra Constable, 300/.— 10,875/. Mi- litary Establishment. — Adj. South. Regt. Militia, 100/. ; ditto N. Reg. 50/. ; ditto Queen's Companies, 50/. ; Armourer, 100/. ; Repairing Military Roads, 210/. ; Clearing the ParadeGround. 150/. — 660/. Clerical Establishment. — Rector of St. George and St. Andrew's Parishes, 1,060/. ; Parish Clerk to ditto, 100/. ; Organist to ditto, 300/.— 1,460/. Rector of Charlotte Parish, 700/. ; Parish Clerk to ditto, 661. — 766/. Rector Leeward Parishes, 700/.; ditto, House-rent, 100/.; Parish Clerk to Leeward, 661. — 866/, Rector of the Grenadines, 700/. ; Parish Clerk to ditto, SSL — 733/. Estimated expences for repairing Churches, &c. — 4,825/. Annuities. — To Militia Men, &c., 286/; to Manumitted Slaves, 420/. ; Arrears to ditto, 706/. — 1,412/. — Public Roads. — Annual Repairs, 2,715/.; ditto, Vigie and Owia, 199/.; Arrears of Annual Repair, 2,733/. ; allowed extra for heavy rains, 500/, — 6,147/.; Repairs to Governor's residence, 3,000/. ; Accounts against the Public, 3,500/.; Arrears of ditto, 1,871; Allowed for contingencies, 3,000/. ; Rewards under the Slave Act, to Nurses and Midwiyes, 3,000/. ; Register of Slaves, for Tri- ennial Return, 1 ,000/. — 1 5,37 1 /. Total 39,290/. The taxes, &c. to meet these estimates, were — Due by the Treasurer's account, to 31st Dec. 1831, per his statement, 304 ISLAND EXPENDITURE FROM 1806 TO 1830. — MONIES. 877/.; Deficiency of White Servants, 1,908/.; Duties on Liquors, 1261.; Powder Officer, 418/.; Transient Traders, 45/. ; Custom-House, 31/. ; Outstanding Taxes, 12,904/. ; Liquor Licenses, 1,266/.; Amount ofProduce, Poll and House Tax, at 2 per cent, 12,826/.; 1,621 Negroes, at 5s. 405/.— 30,810/. The expenditure of the Island from the Treasurer's Books, was, in Currency — £. 1806 - 16,433 1807 - 28,536 1808 - 22,504 1809- 16,158 1810 - 19,868 1811 - 21,253 1812 - 19,583 1813 - 24,123 1814 - 22,036 1815- 18,633 1816 - 24,250 1817 - 22,133 £. 1818 - 37,858 1819- 85,126 1820 1821 1822 1823 39,710 18,130 37,712 29,908 £, 1824 - 38,034 1825- 23,131- 1826 - 36,173 1827 - 32,327 1828 - 31,671 1829 - 25,361 8 6 u Monetary System. Current value of the coins in cir- culation within this Government. Silver coins. — Spanish dollar, 10*. half dollar, 5s.; Carolus, 2*.; Pistareen, 1a-. 6d.] Quarter Colonial coin, 4 dwts. 9 grs. 2*. 6d. ; English shilling, 3 dwts. 16 grs. 2s. 3ld. Gold coins. — Doubloon 17 dwts. 8 grs. 16 dol. £8 Half do. 8 — 16 - 8—4 Guinea 5 — 8 — 44 5ths 2 Sovereign 5 — 3| — 43 5ths 2 Cojjper coins. — English penny-piece, and stampee, 2^d. each; ditto, halfpenny, l^d.] dog, 1-^/. The gold coins in circulation are exclusively Spanish and Portuguese, the Doubloon at the value of sixteen dollars with the aliquot parts in proportion ; the Johannes pass by weight at nine shillings the penny-weight ; for- merly this coin was the most common throughout the Is- lands, each Colony mutilating their own by plugs and various marks, to prevent exportation ; from these prac- tices the coin became so deteriorated, that in 1818 it was called in at a considerable loss, and Doubloons came into more general circulation. The silver coins are the dollar which passes at ten shillings currency, and Colonial coins of one-fourth, one-eighth and one-sixteenth : the British silver occasionally forms part of the commissariat issues, from COMMERCE AND SHIPPING OF ST. VINCENT S. 305 which source nearly all the bullion of the country arises, but it is speedily collected by the merchants for remittances to Europe, and is therefore of little benefit as a general circu- lating medium ; the English copper money, and a barbarous Colonial coin, with the equally barbarous names ofStampees and Black Dogs, complete the catalogue. The sterling value of the dollar being four shillings and four pence, gives £ 230 H, as the currency value of £100. Commerce. In 1832 there were shipped from St. Vin- cent's to Great Britain, of sugar, 12,477 hogsheads, 441 tierces, 197 barrels; of r?/w, 225 puncheons; of molasses, 2,398 puncheons. To the British American Provinces, sugar, 91 hogsheads, IIG tierces, 441 barrels; rum, 2,239 puncheons; molasses, 1,111 puncheons. To the British W. I. islands, and to other ports there, were sma)l quantities of the above mentioned items, making a total of ugar, 12,647 hogsheads ; 567 tierces, 718 barrels ; of rum, 3,^)6 puncheons, 87 hogsheads, 21 barrels; of molasses, 4,206 puncheons; and there were also some small shipments to Europe, in- cluding 631 boxes of arrow root. The value of the total maritime trade of the island, and the amount of shipping therein employed is thus shewn : — VALUE OF IMPORTS FROM 1830 1831 1832 1830 1831 1832 Great Bri- tain. £. 57,135 96,356 West Indies 25,088 61,952 North Ame- rica. Fo- reign states £. 43,282 41,005 Total. A'. , £. 22,801 148,298 53,562 252,875 VALUE OP EXPORTS TO 263,347 219,302 37,564 34,597 31,758 28,129 2,536 8,021 338,045 287,211 SHIPPING OUTWARDS TO Great Britain. 1830| 45 1831] 37 1832 12,732 10,891 British Colonies. 292' 17,735 348, 20,260 Foreign States. 3,588 428 5,635 461 1830 1831 ,1832 36 10,346 46 13,486 SHIPPING INWARDS FROM 245 16,4171104 17,069 106 5,532 I 38S 7,740 446 34,055 36,786 32,295 38,295 Form of Government, Laws, Ecclesiastical Establish- ments, Military, &c.* The authorities- whicK constitute • I am indebted for this section (and indeed I ought to say that I have VOL. II. X 30G I'OKM OF GOVERNMENT LEGISLATIVE COUNCIL. the Government of the Island, are, the Governor, Council, and Assembly, the former is Chancellor, Ordinary and Vice Admiral. His duties are regulated by instructions from His Majesty, which are said to have been originally framed in the time of Charles II. for the Island of Jamaica, and have been adopted for the other Islands ; to these may be added His Majesty's Proclamation of the 7th of October, 1763, which may be called the foundation of the insular constitution, by this authority the general assemblies are summoned, , and the powers of enacting laws, as near as may be to the laws of England, are given, the authority for erecting Courts of Judicature, with the liberty of appeal, is also recognised in this document, which was promulgated after the treaty of Paris.* The Council consists of twelve Members, five or six of whom are usually named in the Governor's Commission, and the remainder supplied by recommendation of the Governor, or by mandamus; five in number constitute a board, and when the original number is reduced to seven, the Governor has a power of nomination to supply the vacancies. f The Council sit in two capacities. Privy and Legislative, in the former the Governor presides, in the latter the senior member, under the title of President, on whom also the tem- porary Government devolves on the absence, or death of a Governor. Since the appointment of a Bishop, he has been sworn in ex-officio a Member in Council in all the Islands composing his diocese, and where the date of his appoint- ment has preceded that of a Governor, he is also Ordinary. only been enabled b\' means of the same gentleman to make the St. Vin- cent chapter complete) to the intelligence and energetic zeal of Mr. .Shephard, the barrister, a resident on the island, as before adverted to. * The Governor's salary, which he is required by his instructions to apply for on his first meeting the Council and Assembly, is ^'4,000 cur- rency. f By a late rule of the Colonial Office, no Councillor can be absent longer than twelve months — after that period his name is directed to be struck out, but no objection appears to his re-admission, at a subsequent period, as the junior member. HOUSE OF ASSEMBLY OF ST. VINCF.XT's. SOT The Assembly consists of nineteen members, three for each of the five parishes, two for the town of Kingstown, and the hke number for the Grenadines ; the quahfication of Members for the Parishes and Islands, is fifty acres of land in cultivation, or producing an income of £300. currency a year, and for the town a house of the yearly value of £100. ; the titles of the candidates to their property must appear to have been registered in the office twelve months, except in cases of wills, and conveyance of property executed in Great Britain. Electors must have a freehold of ten acres, or a house in Kingstown of twenty pounds yearly value, or of ten pounds elsewhere, registered in like manner. Elections take place under the authority of a writ issuing from the Governor and Council, on an application from the Speaker, to the Provost Marshal General, and the whole regulations, on this subject, are prescribed by an Act of the Legislature, which passed in 1786; these three branches assimilate their proceedings as near as possible to those of Great Britain; their meetings are quarterly, and the Acts that are passed proclaimed by the Marshal, and enrolled in the Registrar's Office. These Acts may be divided into three classes, the first temporary and purely colonial, which take effect immediately on their publication; the second, such as have a clause annexed suspending their operation until His Majesty's pleasure be known; and the third, the permanent laws, which if not confirmed in two years from their enactment, are to be con- sidered as disallowed. In strictness the Governor is not au- thorized to pass any law, repealing one which may have received the royal approbation, without a suspending clause; but this in the cases of the old laws, has been frequently over- looked. The Attorney-General has a salary of £500. currency per annum, which is in part given to him for framing the bills, which may be required, but he is not obliged to introduce them to either house, and a considerable difficulty has frequently occurred from the want of an accredited person, as the organ of Government, who might introduce 308 COURTS OF JUSTICE — MILITIA, &e. the measures proposed by the crown through the Colonial Secretary to either house. At present the Governor com- municates by letters with the President and Speaker, but no member is intrusted with the charge of carrying any bills through the different stages prescribed by the Legislature. Courts of Justice. The supreme court for civil causes is called the Court of King's Bench and Common Pleas, where the Chief Justice presides ; his salary is £2,000. currency. There are three other Assistant Justices, who are not pro- fessional persons, and act without any salary. This Court holds its sittings for the trial of causes once in every month, from March to August, when executions for debt can be obtained in about ten weeks, from the entering day. The proceedings are regulated by a Court Act. The Court of Sessions for the trial of criminal offences is held twice a year. The Chief Justice is President, and the Members of Council and Judges sit according to seniority. The Court of Error for appeals from the King's Bench and Common Pleas, is composed of the Governor and Council. The Governor is also sole Chancellor, and from these two last Courts an appeal lies to his Majesty in Council.* The Militia consists of all the free inhabitants between the ages of eighteen and fifty-five, and is formed into one regiment of o80 men, two King's companies of l.'iO men, and two Queen's companies of 125 men, and twenty -five cavalry, these assemble for exercise once in every month, at the dif- ferent stations in the island. The legislature has endea- voured to keep up an effective force of white persons by requiring the planters to keep one white person for every fifty slaves, under a penalty of f50. for each deficiency. The Garrison of British regulars for the protection of the Island, since the peace has been reduced to one wing of a regiment, with a few artillery men, during the war two regi- * In consequence of the reports of the Commissioners of legal enquiry, it may be fully expected that the whole judicial system of the West Indies will be greatly modified and improved — for the defects of the present must be obvious to the most superficial observer. REGISTRATION QF REAL PROPERTY. 309 ments were the complement, which the Government undertook to furnish, in consideration of the assistance which was given by the Colony at different periods, towards building the forts and barracks, and of maintaining the roads thereto at the public expense of the colony. The Police is excellent, especially in the town of Kings- town ; it is regulated by three Town Wardens who are an- nually appointed, and a Chief Constable, with very extensive powers ; the tread-mill affords an efficient mode of punish- ment, heretofore unknown in St. Vincent's. The Registration of real Property is requisite, and the deeds of conveyance must be acknowledged either per- sonally, or by attorney, before the Registrar. The Provost Marshal General executes an office corresponding to that of Sheriff, and inquests are regularly held by the Coroner in all necessary cases. The commerce of the Island is regulated by the officers of His Majesty's Customs ; a Collector, Comptroller, and three Waiters constitute the establishment ; the regulations of trade having been much simplified, and amended of late years, by the repeal of several hundred Acts, and consoli- dating their provisions under six or eight distinct heads. The fees on shipping are now abolished, and the salaries of the officers are defrayed from the dutiable articles imported from foreign ports. Ecclesiastical. The Church in Kingstown having been destroyed in the hurricane of 1780, the present structure was finished in 1820, and an Act was passed for the building of Churches in the different parishes, each of which is supplied with a minister. The salary of the Rector of Saint George and Saint An- drew, including a compensation for a house and glebe, is £1,060 per annum; the other salaries are £700 currency, and the Legislature having resolved on the expenditure of £ 5,000 sterling on ecclesiastical improvements, and the Go- vernment having directed a sum arising from the sale of Crown Lands to be appropriated to similar purposes, it may 310 IHE WKST INDFA lUSlIOPS. be confidently as.siuned, that in a few years, there will be sufficient buildings of every description erected.* By the Act Gth Geo. IV. c. 88, amended by the 7th Geo. IV. c. 4. His Majesty has graciously erected the West India Islands into two Sees, the salaries of the Bishops pay- able out of the 4| per cent, duties are £4,000 sterhng each, with a provision for a retiring pension of £1,000 after a service of ten years ; and the sum of £4,300 is at the disposal of the Bishop of Barbadoes, for the maintenance of Mi- nisters, Catechists, and Scoolmasters in the Diocese, with a limitation that no Minister's salary is to exceed £300 ster- ling. This is the first instance of such a provision in the West Indies (except in the case of the Judges in the Prize Courts) and cannot be too highly commended, f ' These episcopal appointments have already been of great utility, the inferior clergy have been regulated, and a system adopted of conveying general instruction to the negroes by means of catechists and schoolmasters. | The residence of the Bishop is in Bai'badoes, from whence he makes occa- sional visitations to the different Islands in his Diocese, and it is pleasing to add, that all authorities agree in representing the present Bishop as singularly active, and energetic in the * There are at the disposal of the Crown in St. Vincent, of land saleable and fit for immediate culture about 2,500 acres in the N.E. quarter ; at the N. end about 500 ; at the N.W. 600 ; and in the interior of the parishes of St. George, St. Patrick, St. Andrew, and St. David, 500; — in all 4,100, and as much more remotely situate and dithcult of access. t Mr. Shepherd rightly observes, that, if the Government desire to Imj .well and faithfully served by persons adeijuatcly qualified to execute the trusts reposed in them, they must secure them a remuneration for their advancing years ; in most instances the colonial salaries barely afford a decent maintenance, and many persons have been obliged to continue in "office, from necessity, long after they have been enervated by disease, or disqualified from age. Such a system also tends to check any disposition towards the undue ac(iuircment of the emoluments of oflace, it will be • found most beneficial to both parties, and will confer lasting honour on the provident humanity of His INlajesty. X The number of places of worship are eleven, capable of containing 2,500 persons, and usually attended by 1,8/0 ; the total expense is jf 3,000. EDUCATION AND FUTURE STATE OF ST. VINCENt's. 311 performance of his spiritual duties towards the more helpless classes of his fellow-creatures. Education. The want of education has been a sore evil in the Colonies, but a decided improvement has taken place, under the auspices of the Bishop, and it is to be hoped that in a few years the parochial schools will manifest their utility.* There is a laudable institution by a few coloured persons in Kingstown, for the education of the coloured poor, which with very limited means, has been productive of great advantages, and deserves more patronage and support, than it has hitherto received from the white population. The Le- gislature has removed the disabilities attendant on colour, and stricken the fetters from the slave, but I agree with the ingenious author I have before cited, that these concessions will be of no actual benefit to that race, unless they become qua- lified by education and morals, to assume their advanced station in society, and to perform the duties required of them, and this will depend on freedom from commercial res- trictions at home as well as on their own exertions to obtain property by their industry, and respect by their integrity .f * State of public education in 1830 : males, 135 ; females, 74; — total, 209. t The dependencies within this Government are the islands of Bequia, 3,700 acres, with a very fine harbour, called Admiralty Bay ; Union, 2,150 acres; Mustique, 1,203 acres ; and Canouan, 1,777 acres. There are also the lesser islands of Balliceaux and Battawia, Myera, Petit St. Vincent, Islet a Quatre, Isle of Wash, Church Island, Petit Nevis, Three Ramiers, Pillories, Savan, Petit Bermuda, Petit Canouan, Barbaroux Is- land, or Petit Curacoa, Two TafBa Quays, Two Baleines, Two Catholics, Prune Island, Four Tobago Quays, Umbrella Quay and Petit Martinique. The cultivation in all these islands is very mucli reduced, from the woods having been cut down, and the consequent decrease of rain; the seas abound with fish ; many whales make their appearance in February and March, and the air is remarkably fine and salubrious. 312 CHAPTER VII. BARBADOES. LOCALITY — HISTORY — PIIVSICAL ASPECT — CLIMATE — POPULATION PRODUCTIONS — COMMERCE — EDUCATION — PROPERTY — GOVERNMENT, &C. Locality. This ancient British colony is situated at the S. E. extremity of the great American archipelago, in Lat. 1 3.5. N. * For the sake of the general navi- gator, I give the course and distance from Bridge Town, Barbadoes, to St. Pierre, ftlartinique ; and thence to the principal Ports in the Northern direc tion, down to St. Thomas, with the dis- tance added to each course, for turning in and out of the ports. PRIXCIPAL PORTS. Bridgre Town to St. Pierre . . St. Pierre to Roseau, Domi- nica Roseau to Basseterre, Gua- daloupe Basseterre to Montserrat . . . West Point of Montserrat to St. John's, Antigua St. Jolui's to Cliarlestown, Nevis Charlestown to Basseterre, St. Kitts Basseterre to St. Eustatius. . St. Eustatius to Gustavia, St. Bartholomew Gustavia to St. Martin's .... St. Martin's to West End of AnguUla Anguilla to S. W. Point of Virgin (Jorda Virgin Gorda to Tortola. . Tortola to St. John's Tortola to Port St. John's to St. Thomas, general course Whole Distance N.W. N. by W. 3 W. N. iW. N. W. by N. N. E. W. i S. N. N. W. J W. N.W. N. N. E. N.W. b W. 3 W N. by W. W. by N. W. iS. S.W. by S. W. i N. W.byN. Distance in smooth water, under tlie lee of the islands, in the above given direc- tions Course and distance from Bridgetown, Barbadoes, to Ca- renage, St. Lucia ; and thence to all the principal Ports in the Southern direction to Port of Spain, Trinidad, with the dis- tance added to each course, for turning in and out of ports. PRINCIPAL PORTS. Course. Bridge Town to Ca- renage, St. Lucia Carenage to Kings- town, St. Vincent Kingstown to St. George's, Grenada St. George's to Scar- borough, Tobago.. Scarborough to the Bocas, Trinidad The Bocas to Port of Spain Whole Distance. Distance under the lee of the islands, in the above given direction, the winds Northerly Ditto, winds being Southerly ... . N.W. i W. S.byW.S.W. S. S.W. i W. S. E. iE. W. S. W. 107 50 /8 97 63 20 '435 195 GENERAL HISTORY OF BARBADOES. 313 Long. 59.41. W.* extending about twenty-two miles in length and fourteen in breadth, with a surface of 106,470 acres. General History. The early discovery of Barbadoes is involved in obsciu'ity ; the island remained unknown and un- noticed for a century after the discoveries of Columbus, and the first indication of its existence in the charts of European navigators, was A. D. 1600. It is said to have been first visited by the Portuguese, who, finding it uninhabited, and rude in appearance, named the isle Los Barbados, or as some say in reference to the number of fig trees which from their spreading branches Avere likened to luxurious beards. The original discoverers left some swine and plants on the isle and abandoned it. In 1605, an English ship, the Olive, re- turning from Guinea, accidentally touched at Barbadoes, landed a part of her crew at the spot, where the Hole Toivn was afterwards built, erected a cross, took possession of the island, and inscribed on several trees, 'James, King of Eng- land, and of this island.' Finding no refreshments the crew was reimbarked, and the adventurers proceeded to St. Christopher's, where an English colony had recently been formed. The island was then neglected for nearly twenty years, when some Dutch men of-war having visited it, reported favourably of its adaptation for cultivation. These particulars having reached Sir Wm. Courteen, an enter- prizing London merchant, he endeavoured to effect a settle- ment on Barbadoes. The beauty and fertility of the island became also much talked of in England in consequence of a ship of Sir Wm. Courteen's having put in there, in stress of weather, and the mariners, on returning home, expatiated on the advantages of the place. The spirit of colonization was at this time exceedingly active in England, (I wish sincerely it could now be revived), and the Earl of Marl- borough (afterwards Lord High Treasurer), obtained from James I, a patent for the island to him and his heirs for ever. Sir Wm. Courteen having obtained the sanction of the noble patentee, fitted out two large ships with men, arms, ammunition, and every thing suited to the establishment of a 314 BRITISH COLONIZATION OF BARBADOES. new colony. One vessel only arrived at Barbadoes, and a town was commenced in February 1625, at the spot where the Olive had touched twenty years before, and named Jmues's {hy some called Hole) town. In 1627, James Hay, Earl of Carlisle, stimulated by the representations of Thos. Warner who had been engaged in forming a settlement at St. Chris- topher's applied to and obtained from Charles I. (who had then newly ascended the throne), a grant of all the Caribbee islands, to be formed into a palatinate or proprietary govern- ment, under the name of Cariola. The Earl of Marlborough of course strenuously opposed this enormous grant, as affecting his prior right to Barbadoes, and litigation commenced between the two noblemen, which was compromised on Lord Carlisle agreeing to settle on the Earl of Marlborough and his heirs for ever, an annuity of £300 in lieu of his claim. The Earl of Carlisle's patent passed the great seal the 2nd of June 1627, and the preamble of this singular charter runs as follows : — ' Whereas our well-beloved cousin and cotinsellor, James Lord Hay, Baron of Sauley, Viscount Doncaster, and Earl of Carlisle, endeavouring, with a laudable and pious design, of propagating the Christian Religion, and also of the enlargement of the territories of our dominions, hath humbly petitioned us for a certain region of islands in our dominions after- named, lying towards the north part of the world, as yet void, and inha- bited by savages, who have no knowledge of the divine power, commonly called the Caribbee Islands, containing the islands of St. Christopher, Grenada, Saint Vincent, Saint Lucia, Barl>adoes, Martinique, Dominica, Marigalantc, Deseada, Todasantos, (iuadaloupe, Antigua, IMontserrat, Rcdondo, Barbuda, Nevis, Eustatia, Saint Bartholomew, Saint Martin, An""uilla, Sombrera, and Ancgada, and many other islands, found at his ffrcat cost and charges, and now brought to that pass to be inhabited by a large and copious colony of English, with certain privileges and jurisdic- tions belonging to the said government and state of a colony and region to him, his heirs, and assigns, to be granted.' By the succeeding clauses, his Majesty did, by the same grant, for hiua, his heirs and successors, make, create and constitute the said Earl of Car- lisle, his heirs and assigns, absolute proprietor and lord of the said region ; reserving still the allegiance due to his Majesty, his heirs and successors. It was then added, ' And because we have made and appointed the said James Earl of Carlisle true lord of all the aforesaid province, as he to KING Charles's grant to the earl of Carlisle. 316 whom tlie right belongeth, know ye, that we have authorized and ap- pointed the said James Earl of Carlisle, and his heirs, of whose fidelity, prudence, justice, and wisdom, we have great confidence, for the good and happy government of the said province, or the private utility of every man, to make, erect, and set forth ; and under his or their signets to pub- lish such laws as he, the said Earl of Carlisle, or his heirs, loith the consent, assent and approbation, of the free inhabitants of the said province, or the greater part of them thereunto to be called, and in such form, and when and as often as he or tliey, in his or their discretion, shall think fit and best. And these laws must all men, for the time being, that do live within the limits of the said province observe ; whether they be bound to sea, or from thence returning to England, or any other of our dominions, or any other place appointed, upon such impositions, penalties, imprison- ments, or restraint ; and if it behoveth, and the (]uality of the offence rc- quireth, either upon the body or death itself, to be executed by the said James Earl of Carlisle, and his heirs; or by his or their deputy, judges, magistrates, officers, and ministers, according to the tenor and true mean- ing of these presents, in what case soever : and with such power as to him, the said James Earl of Carlisle, or his heirs, shall deem best. And to dispose of all offences or riots whatsoever, either by sea or land, whether before judgment received, or after remitted, freed, pardoned or forgiven. And to do and perform all and every thing or things ; which, to the ful- filling of justice, courts, or manner of proceeding, in their tribunals may or doth belong or appertain, although express mention of them in these presents be not made ; yet we have granted full power, by virtue of these presents, them to be made ; which laws so absolutely proclaimed, and by strength of right supported, as they are granted, we will enjoin, charge and command, all and every subject and liege people of us, our heirs and successors, as far as them they do concern, inviolably to keep and ob- serve xmder the pains therein expressed ; so as, notwithstanding, the aforesaid laics be agreeable, and not repugnant unto reason ; nor against, hut as convenient and agreeable as marj he to the laws, statutes, customs and rights, of our kingdom of England.' ' And because in the government of so great a province oftentimes sud- den occasions do fall out, to which it shall be needful to apply a remedy before the free inhabitants of the said province can be called; and for that it shall not always be needful, in such cases, that all the people be called together ; we will and ordain, and by these presents, for us, our heirs and successors, have granted to the said James Earl of Carlisle, and his heirs, that he by himself, or his magistrates and officers, in that case lawfully preferred, may make decrees and ordinances both fit and profit- able, from time to time, that they may be esteemed, kept and observed, within the said province, as well for keeping the peace as for the better government of the people there living, so that they may be publicly 316 THE BARBADOES PATENT REVOKED BY THE KING. known to all whom they do concern. Which ordinances we will, within the said provinces, inviolably to be kept, upon pain in them expressed ; so that these laws be agreeable to reason, and not repugnant nor against it, but, as far as may be, agreeable to the laws and statutes of our kingdom of England ; and so that those laws extend not to the hurt or discommodity of any person or persons, either to the binding, constraining, burthening, or taking away, either their liberty, goods, or chattels.' ' We also of our princely grace, for us, our heirs and successors, will straightly charge, make and ordain, that the said province be of our alle- giance; and that all and every subject and liege people of us, our heirs and successors, brought or to be brought, and their children, whether then born, or afterwards to be born, become natives and subjects of us, our heirs and successors, and be as free as they who were born in England ; and so their inheritance within our kingdom of England or other of our dominions, to seek, receive, take hold, buy and possess, and use and enjoy them as their own ; and to give, sell, alien and bequeath them at their pleasure ; and also freely, quietly, and peaceably, to have and possess all the liber ties, franchises, and privileges of this kingdom and them to enjoy as liege people of England, whether born or to be born, without impedi- ment, molestation, vexation, injui-y or trouble of us, our heirs and suc- cessors ; any act or statute to the contrary notwithstanding.' Charles soon forgot that he had ever made this grant to Lord Carhsle, and in February 1628, being much pressed by the Earl of Pembroke, the unfortunate monarch made over Barbadoes to his Lord Chamberlain, the Earl of Pembroke, in trust for Sir Wm. Courteen, who, really for his zealous energy, deserved to have had the island bestowed on him in the first instance. Scarcely had this grant been made when the Earl of Carlisle returned from a foreign embassy, and to appease his lordships resentment at the breach of faith evinced towards him, the irresolute monarch revoked the charter or patent, granted to the Earl of Pembroke, and restored the proprietory rights to his favourite, Carlisle. The proceedings just mentioned had the good effect of sti- mulating the Earl to improve the territory bestowed on him, he contracted with a company of London merchants for a grant of 10,000 acres of land, on condition of receiving from each settler forty pounds of cotton annually, and the privilege of nominating a governor, or chief. Wolferstone, a native of Bermuda, was commissioned by the Earl of Carlisle as gover- LORD Carlisle's first settlements in barbadoes. 317 nor, with the power of Governor-Commander-in-Chief and Captain, to do justice, decide controversies, keep his Majesty's peace, and punish offenders, according to the laws of England and the nature of their crimes. Sixty-four settlers (each en- titled on landing to 100 acres of land) arrived in Carlisle Bay 25th July, 1628, commenced the erection of wooden houses, threw a bridge across the river which intersected the ground, and laid the foundation for Bridgetown, the present capital. The Earl of Pembroke's men, who were settled on the lee- ward of the island, refused to obey the windward, or Carlisle Bay Settlers. Arms were ultimately had recourse to, the windward men trivnnphed, and while the latter were asserting their right of jurisdiction in Barbadoes, the Earl of Carlisle had a new royal patent, made out in England, confirming in the most explicit and unequivocal manner the former grant. Sir William Tufton was appointed Governor-Commander-in- Chief, in February, 1629. A military force was sent out to keep the leeward men quiet. A council of twelve settlers, appointed to assist the Governor in holding a Courts General Sessions of the Peace, laws were enacted suitable to an infant settlement, and the cultivated or occupied parts of the isle di- vided into six parishes, viz. Christ Church, St. Michael, St. James, St. Thomas, St. Peter, and St. Lucy. It would be uninteresting to the general reader, and foreign to the object of my work, to enter into a detailed view of the early history of Barbadoes. As in all new colonies, the inhabitants met with no inconsiderable difficulties, — local feuds were added to domestic privations ; but the civil war which raged in England contributed to people and enrich the island, as it had done other places, and, on^the downfal of Charles, many respectable families attached to the royal cause found shelter and comfort in Barbadoes. The autho- rity of the Earl of Carlisle in the West Indies may be said to have declined with the regal power at home, and the colony, left to its own government and resources, and under the auspices of commercial freedom, rapidly acquired independence and opulence. 318 FIRST gexehal legislative assembly. In 1645 the island, under the prudent rule of Mr. Bell-, was divided into four parishes, (George's, Philip's, John's, and Andrew's, were added to the before-mentioned) a church built in each, and an officiating minister appointed. A gene- ral assembly was instituted, composed of two deputies elected in each parish from the majority of freeholders. The island was divided into four circuits, in each of which a court of law was constituted — defensive fortifications erected around the isle — the militia constituted a formidable force of 10,000 in- fantry and 1000 cavalry — the total population of the island had increased to 150,000 persons, of all colours and sexes, and the value of property was quadrupled in seven years. This prosperity was not owing to sugar culture, for Ligon who visited the island in 1647, says, that the plantation of the cane had only then recently begun ; but it would appear that Barbadoes carried on an unrestricted foreign intercouse with Holland and other countries. The number of slaves in the island at this period is not on record, yet here, as elsewhere, the evils of the system were early felt, for in 1649 a formi- dable insurrection took place at Barbadoes, and a general day was appointed for the massacre of all the white inhabitants. The plot was discovered by a negro, in gratitude to his master, the day before its contemplated execution, and twenty-eight of the leading negroes were gibbeted, according to the custom of the times. In 1650, Lord Carhsle, (the son of the first patentee), hearing much of the wealth of the island, which he considered patrimonial property, and desirous of reaping some advantages from the same, executed a lease to Francis Lord Willoughby, of Parham, an active royalist officer, conveying to his lordship all his right and title to the colony for twenty-one years, upon condition that the profits arising from the proprietary right should be mutually shared between them. Charles II., (then in exile), desirous of securing the A\'est Indies for his crown, appointed Lord Willoughby Governor and Lieutenant-Ge- neral of Barbadoes and of all the Caribbee islands ; and the legislature of Barbadoes, on his lordship's arrival, passed an CROMWELL REDUCES THE BARBADIANS. 319 Act, acknowledging his Majesty's right to the sovereignty of the island, and that of the Earl of Carlisle, derived from his Majesty, and transferred to Lord Willoughby. Barbadoes, always distinguished for its loyalty, exerted itself on this oc- casion, and equipped several ships of war, which compelled the neighbouring islands to submit to the authority of the crown, as emanating from the chief W, I. Government at Barbadoes. Cromwell, it may be supposed, did not quietly permit this refuge to his royal opponent, and a formidable squadron, under the command of Sir George Ayscue, con- taining a large body of troops, was despatched for the pur- pose of reducing the refractory colonists in obedience to the Commonwealth, and with the view of crippling the power of Holland, with which Barbadoes and the other W. I. posses- sions carried on a lucrative traffic. The far-famed navigation laws were passed, by which the ships of any foreign nation were prohibited from trading with any of the English planta- tions, without a license from the Council of State. The Barbadians for some time gallantly defended them- selves against the tyranny of Cromwell, and it was not until the Parliamentary forces had laid waste a large portion of the island, the defection of Col. Modiford, and that many had been slain on both sides, that the island was subdued by the Cromwellian power. Sir George Ayscue was appointed Go- vernor after the reduction in 165^, and proceeded to subdue the other islands that had maintained their allegiance to the royal authority. On the restoration of Charles II.,* Lord Wil- loughby, who had been banished for life from the island, ap- pointed Col. Humphry Walround, a faithful old royalist, superseding CoL Modiford, who proceeded to Jamaica, to be Deputy-Governor and President of the Council of Barbadoes. Lord Willoughby, in 1662, as lessee of the Earl of Car- lisle, renewed his claims on the island. Lord Kinnaird, the kinsman and heir of the Earl of Carlisle, brought forward demands on the settlers amounting to £60,000, and the heirs * Charles II. conferred the dignity of Knighthood on thirteen gentlemen of Barbadoes, in testimonv of their attachment to the roval cause, - > 320 CONCLUSION OF THE PROPRIETARY GOVERNMENT. of the Earl of Marlborough, who were entitled to a perpetual annuity from the same quarter, claimed a large sum for ar- rears. To satisfy these claims, now urgently made, a large number of the Barbadians, (by Mr. Kendal) agreed to lay a duty of 4| per cent, on all native commodities, the growth and produce of Barbadoes, when exported from the island. This impost was estimated at £10,000 a-year. Many Barba- dians protested against the perpetual rent-charge of 10 per cent, on their plantations ; but, after being submitted to the decision of the Privy Council, it was finally agreed, that the 4f per cent, fund should be applied towards providing a suf- ficient compensation to the Earl of Kinnaird, for surrendering his right to the Carlisle charter — to provide for discharging the Earl of Marlborough's annuity — one moiety of the surplus to be paid to Lord Willoughby for the remainder of his lease, the other moiety to the creditors of Lord Carlisle, until the expiration of Lord Willoughby's contract, when, after a salary of £ 1 ,200 a-year for the future Governor of Barbadoes, the creditors of the Earl of Carlisle were to receive the en- tire balance, until their demands were liquidated. Under these conditions (agreed to by all parties) the proprietary Government was dissolved, and the sovereignty of Barbadoes annexed to the British crown. Some of the inhabitants of Barbadoes long protested against the imposition of the 4| per cent, duties, but the rigorous and prudent administration of Lord Willoughby brought internal peace to the island, while his lordship extended the power of Britain in the western hemisphere*. Col. Christopher Codrington became Deputy-Governor in 1668, and his administration was dis- tinguished by vigilance and circumspection. In 1669, the windward and leeward isles were formed into distinct go- vernments, Guadaloupe being the line of demarcation, and the commerce of the leeward isles was given to Sir W. Sta- pleton, while Lord Willoughby retained that of Barbadoes and the windward islands, which he kept until 1673. * Lord Willoughby was lost in a hurricane, near Guadaloupe, while employed in reducing several islands to subjection. THE PRESENT KTNg's VISIT TO BARBADOES. 321 To detail the local affairs of the island would occupy several volumes, I must therefore pass rapidly to a conclusion ; in 1722 on the appointment of Governor Worsley, a salary of ^6000. sterling per annum was fixed on his Excellency, and provided for by a capitation tax of 2*. 6cL on each slave — and by a tax on lawyers, patentees, and public officers, &c. — a burthen which the colonists soon found themselves unable to defray. The administration of Lord Howe (commencing in 1735) seems to have been generally applauded; under his generous auspices a free press was established in Barbadoes, and he died at his government in 1735, beloved by all who knew him. In 1780 Barbadoes was ravaged by a teri-ific hurri- cane, which lasted for forty-eight hours, and devastated the island -, such was the violence of the wind that a twelve pound carronnade was blown from the pier head to the wharf, a distance of 140 yards. Of eleven churches and two chapels, only three were left standing ; and not more than thirty houses of the extensive capital of Bridge-town ; the Mole-head, which cost the colonists £20,000. was destroyed, and the castle, battery, forts, town-hall, prison and cells demolished ; the loss of lives amounted to 3000. and of property to £1,018,928. Public sympathy was excited at home. Parliament granted a sum of money for the relief of the sufferers, and the citi- zens of Dublin munificently subscribed £20,000.* On the 24th of November, 1787, His Royal Highness Prince William Henry (our present Gracious Sovereign) vi- sited Barbadoes in command of the Pegasus frigate, and was received with the most ardent demonstrations of affection and loyalty ; all ranks vied in their enthusiastic desire to receive the son of their beloved Sovereign with dutiful respect, and on His Royal Highness's departure from the Colony, the House of Assembly voted the Prince a sword of the value of three hundred guineas. The events which have since occurred do not require much detail — the Colonial Almanac affording complete chronological * It should be recorded that the house of Latouche and Sons contri- buted the princely sum of ^1,000 for the relief of the Barbadians, VOL. II, Y 322 CHRONOLOGICAL LIST OF GOVERNORS OF BARBADOES. data; hurricanes, earthquakes, slave insurrections, make up the principal features of the latter years history of Barbadoes ; sufficient has been stated to give a correct view of our acqui- sition of the island, and its singular primary proprietary go- vernment. As historical data, the following list of the rulers of Barbadoes is appended, — 1625, W. Deane. Gr. ; 1628, C. Wolferstone, do. ; 1629, J. Powell, do. ; 1629, R. Wheatly, do. ; 1629, Sir W. Tufton, do. ; 1630, H. Hawley, do. ; 1633, R. Peers, D. Gr. ; 1636, Hawley, D. Gr. ; 1638, W. Hawley, D. Gr ; 1639, H. Hawley, Gr.; 1640, Sir H. Hunks, do.; 1641, P. Bell, do.; 1650, F. Lord Willoughby, do. ; 1651, Sir G. Ayscue, do. ; 1652, D. Searle, D. Gr. ; 1660, T. Modiford, Gr.; 1660, H.Walrond, Pr. ; 1663, Francis Lord Willoughby, Gr. ; 1666, H. Wil- loughby, H. Hawley, Samuel Barwick, Joint Grs. ; 1667, William Lord Willoughby, Gr. ; 1668, C. Coddrington. D. Gr. ; 1670, W. Lord Willoughby, Gr. ; 1670, C. Coddring- ton, D. Gr. ; 1672, W. Lord Willoughby, Gr. ; 1673, Sir P. Colleton, Bt., D. Gr. ; 1674, Sir J. Atkins, Gr. ; 1680, Sir R. Button, do. ; 1683, Sir J. Witham, D. Gr. ; 1684, Sir R. Button, Gr. ; 1685, E. Steed, B. Gr. ; 1690, J. Kendall, Gr. ; 1694, F. Russell, do. ; 1696, F. Bond, Pr. ; 1698, R. Grey, Gr.; 1702, J. Farmer, Pr. ; 1703, Sir B. Granville, Gr. ; 1706, W. Sharpe, Pr. ; 1707, M. Crowe, Gr. ; 1710, G. Lil- lington, Pr. ; 1711, R. Lowther, Gr. ; 1714, W. Sharpe, Pr. ; 1715, R. Lowther, Gr. ; 1720, J. Frere, Pr. ; 1720, S. Cox, do. ; 1722, H. Worsley, Gr. ; 1731, S. Barwick, Pr. ; 1733, J. Botin, do. ; 1733, Scroop Lord Viscount Howe, Gr. ; 1735, J. Botin, Pr. ; 1739, Hon. R. Byng, Gr. ; 1710, J. Botin, Pr. ; 1742, Sir T. Robinson, Gr.; 1747, Hon. Henry Grenville, do. ; 1753, R. Weeks, Pr. ; 1756, C. Pinfold, Gr. ; 176f3, S. Rous, Pr.; 1768, W. Spry, Gr.; 1772, S. Rous, Pr. ; 1773, Hon. E. Hay, Gr. ; 1779, J. Botin, Pr. ; 1780, J. Cunningham, Gr. ; 1783, J. Botin, Pr, ; 1784, B. Parry, Gr. ; 1790, H.Frere, Pr. ; 1791, B. Parry, Gr. ; 1793, W. Bishop, Pr. ; 1794, G. P. Ricketts, Gr. ; 1800, W. Bishop, Pr.; 1801, Francis Hum- berstone. Lord Seaforth, Gr. ; 1803, J. Ince, Pr. ; 1804, F. H. Lord Seaforth, Gr. ; 1806, J. Spooner, Pr. ; 1810, Sir PHYSICAL ASPECT AND CLIMATE. S23 G. Beckwith, K. B. Gr. ; 1814, J. Spooner, Pr. ; 1815, Sir J. Leith, K.B. Gr. ; 1816, J. Spooner, Pr.; 1816, Sir J. Leith, Gr. ; 1817, J. F. Alleyne, Pr. ; 1817, Stapleton Lord Comber- mere, G. C. B., Gr. ; 1817, J.F. Alleyne, Pr. ; 1817, S. Lord Combermere, Gr. ; 1820, J. B. Skeete, Pr. ; 1821, S. Hinds, do. ; 1821, Sir H. Warde, K. C. B. Gr. ; 1825, J. B. Skeete, Pr. ; 1826, Sir H. AVarde,'Gr. ; 1827, J. B. Skeete, Pr. ; 1829, Sir J. Lyon, K. C. B., Gr. ; 1829, J. B. Skeete, Pr. ; 1829, Sir J. Lyon, Gr. ; 1832, Sir Lionel Smith, K. C. B. do. Physical Aspect. Barbadoes, although generally level, except in the N. E. quarter, called Scotland (which is about 1,100 feet above the sea) * has a very beautiful appearance, owing to its extensive cultivation, and sloping fields or ter- races. The base of the island is calcareous rock, formed of madrepores, and other marine concretions, and is probably of volcanic origin, like the gi'eater number of the surrounding isles. Bridge-town the Capital extends along the shores of the beautiful Bay of Carlisle for nearly two miles in length and half a mile broad, with about 20,000 houses. The hand- some and spacious bari'acks of St. Ann's, with their fine parade, are at the southern extremity of the town. The square, with Nelson's statue, is well laid out, and many of the houses are handsome. The Government-house, called Pilgrim, is about half a mile from Bridge-town. The fort of St. Anne, though small, is capable of making a good defence ; it contains several excellent magazines stored with ammunition, and an armoury, with many thousand stand of arms in perfect order. The soil varies much ; in some districts it is sandy and light, in others a rich black earth, and in several places spongy. Here and there is found a red clay of considerable depth, and the Ught whitish earth broken into a grey mould, or hardened into lumps resemble chalk, but actually consist of indurated argillae, bleached by exposure to the weather. Climate, Vegetation, &c. — Owing to the flatness of the island, leaving it open to the sea-breeze, and its extensive culti- * In some deep vallies there are the remains of the primitive forests which formerly covered the whole island. 324 EARLY POPULATION OF BARBADOES. vation, Barbadoes is peculiarly healthy ; and the details given of the range of the thermometer, &;c., under St. Vincent's will, with some modifications, answer for Barbadoes ; a shnilar remark will apply to vegetation. One peculiarity is deserving of notice, four distinct crops of sugar-cane, maize, tobacco, and sweet potatoes, may be seen in the same field, and in alternate drills. Population. The inhabitants of this colony rapidly in- creased from its first settlement. In 1674 their numbers were calculated at 50,000 whites, and 100,000 coloured or negroes, thus giving 500 mouths to every sqviare mile, while China, with its 350,000,000, has not more than 288 to the square mile.* The population at different periods of the last century was, so far as we have returns, Years. Whites. Blacks. 1724 18,295 ■- 1753 — 69,870 1786 16,167 62,953 The slave population from 1817 to 1832, was — Increase by Birth. Decrease by Death. Manumis- sion. U) a c> i S •a i H o 1 H "3 S "3 Total. 1 £ & s £ I s o 1817 35,354 42,139 77,493 1820 36,733 41,612 78,315 3,654 3,758 7,412 3,317 3,286 6,603 250 182.3 36,159 42,657 78,816 4,178 4,058 8,236 3,487 3,228 6,715 297 1826 36,995 43,556 80,551 4,788 4,814 9,602 3,109 3,304 6,713 322 1829 37,691 44,211 81,902 4,748 4,502 9,250 3,494 3,320 (i,S14 670 1832 37,762 43,738 81,500 9,975 8,587 1,089 * 111 \G7G, Barbadoes, on 100,000 acres, contained 70,000 whites and 80,000 blacks — total 160,000 souls. This great population was effected by granting out land, in lots of ten acres each, to poor settlers, and white servants who had fulfilled the term of their iiuleiitures. Some, perhaps many, of these lots were subsequently sold when the island became too populous for the extension of sugar plantations ; and the late occupiers, with the purchase money, proceeded to settle in other islands, whore land was cheap and plentiful. PARISH DIVISIONS INHABITANTS AND COMMERCE. 325 The total population and the division into parishes is thus stated : — Area in Free PARISH. Sq. Miles Whites.* Coloured. Slaves. Total. St. Michael - - - 15 4,965 3,045 17,990 26,000 St Philip - - - 23 1,207 307 9,840 11,354 St. Lucy - - - - 13 900 75 5,345 6,320 St. George - - - 16 927 175 7,381 8,483 St. Andrew - - - 13 600 300 3,650 4,550 St. Joseph - - - y* 890 90 4,251 5,231 St. John - - - - 12 908 172 5,487 6,567 St. Peter - - - - 13 . 1,500 6,617 8,117 St. Thomas - - - 13 - 750 6,000 6,750 Christ Church - - 224 1,700 120 10,000 11,820 St. James - - - 12 700 50 4,300 5,050 Total - - 162 Commerce. Tlie trade of Barbadoes has fluctuated very much at various periods owing to hurricanes and bad seasons, as well as to the equally injurious fiscal restrictions of manj its early exports were — 5' Sugar. i Rum. Ginger. Aloes. Cotton. >< Hds. Trs. Bar. Hds. Hds. Trs Bar. Bags. Hds. Gds. Bags. Lbs. 17S6 8,659 82 3,419 114 5,199 39 693 8,070 1 409 8,664 1/90 9,998 123 2,935 2,331 261 4,565 475 1,287,088 1791 11,333 60 2,3-16 30 3,008 411 3,735 770 1,163,157 1/92 17,0/3 125 2,69s 188 5,064 512 3,046 515 974,178 In 1828 the colonial produce exported from Barbadoes was — Muscovado sugar, 26,790 hogsheads, 2,662 tierces, 835 barrels ; Cotton, 1,747 bales ; Molasses, 2,208 puncheons ; Rum, 371 puncheons; Aloes 738 packages. * Among the inhabitants of this island, there is a numerous class be- tween the great planters and the people of colour, termed Barbadians ; a circumstance which forms a striking difference between Barbadoes and the other colonies. Many of them are descended from the original settlers, and have no precise knowledge when their ancestors first arrived. They accordingly regard this island as their nation and only abode, and do not, like the planters or the negroes, look back to the scenes of infancy a:s their better home. 326 BARBADOEs' EXPORTS FROM lS2ti to 1830 — REVENUE. The value in money of the trade of the island in 1830, ■was — Imports from Exports to Great Britain. British Colonies. Foreign States. Total Value. Great Britain. British Colonies. Foreign States. Total Value. ^203,417 93,834 71.869 36g,120 62J,734 136,842 1 15,118 -76,694 Principal Articles of Export from Barbadoes, from 18^ to 1830, were :— 1822 1823 Sugar. 576 packages. 16,557 lbs. 1824 ;32,32- 1825 1826 135,763 .. 162,484 .. hds. 12,822 26,525 21,639 18,565 20,329 Rum. 4 pun 236 cases 3,747 gall. 22,352 . . llSpun. 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 Aloes. Sugar. Rum. I hds. 9,5966 lbs. 1 17,593 I 12 punch. No Returns. 738 pack. I 25,371 I Revenue. The income is raised as in the other islands. The following was the Barbadoes' gross Revenue and Expen- diture, in £ sterling from 1821 to 1830:— Revenue. Expenditure. Years. Revenue. Expenditure. Years. Civil. Military.* Totsl. Civil. MilitATy. Total. 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 13.127 17,421 2P,431 20,125 21,223 16,679 13,795 23,511 12,009 22,878 2,592 2,697 2,499 1,654 1,747 19.271 16,492 26,010 13,663 24,625 1826 1827 182S 1829 1830 21,022 20,352 20,157 19,290 16,349 27,140 20,242 18,122 18,339 16,399 2,500 1,723 1,677 1,604 1,666 29,640 21,965 19,799 19.943 18,565 Schools, Education, &c. There is a church and chapel in each of the eleven parishes of the island, capable of con- taining 8,000 persons in all.f Besides the central school for iCO white boys, founded by Lord Combermere,]: there are many others of more recent establishment for both sexes and for all colours. * By Mill tart/ Expenditure, I vvisli it to be understood, throughout this work (unless otherwise expressed), the charges incurred by the colonists for British military forces or garrisons. f The expence of the clerical establishment is ^4,050 per annum. X The central school is a large and convenient building, nearly oppo- site the King's house, and u'ithin two minutes walk of the cathedral. Mr. EDUCATION AND SCHOOLS FORM OF GOVERNMENT, &C. 327 The situation of Codrington College, according to a recent visitor, is one of the most delightful that can possibly be conceived ; surrounded by hills on every side, possessing the superior advantages of the sea breeze, an unbounded view of the Atlantic, and refreshed by a clear stream of water, col- lected in front into a small lake. The students receive their board and education for £35 per annum, and are examined and ordained by the bishop if intended for the church. Form of Government. The government of the island is constituted in a manner similar to that already described under Jamaica ; namely, a Governor, a Legislative Council, and a Representative Assembly. The Governor's legislative authority is entirely negative, he can only recommend subjects for consideration to the Assembly, and his concurrence is re- quired before any bill can become law, such concurrence, however, not being valid beyond three years, unless sanctioned by the royal confirmation. In his executive capacity the Go- vernor is entitled to nominate, and of course remove the Coleridge says, it is impossible to speak in too high terms of this excellent institution, which reflects upon LordCombermere, who promoted, and the Legislature, which liberally seconded the undertaking, the utmost credit. At present, about 160 white children are educated here, precisely upon the plan of the national schools in England ; all of them are fed during the day, and the major part are well clothed. The beneficial effects of this charity are already confessed on all hands ; principles of sobi'iety and devotion are instilled into their minds, and habits of regularity and peaceful subordination are enforced. From this class of boys the master tradesmen, mechanics, overseers, and even managers, are now supplied ; and when it is considered how much the comfort of the slaves must depend upon these persons, their education will be found to be, as it really is, a direct measure of general amelioration. A girls' school has also been founded, under the auspices of the Bishop; they are both favourite institutions, and the chief people in the colony spare neither pains nor expence in strengthening or maintaining them. There is also a large school for coloured children, with coloured managers, established under the Bishop's superintendence; and several more have been opened by the Bishop, at the Government expence, every colour are admitted— the only conditions being cleanliness and constant attendance. Instruction is gratuitous. 328 POWERS OF THE GOVERNOR MILITIA OF BARBADOES. officers of militia; the right, however, is seldom exercised beyond the choice of Colonels, who nominate their Lieute- nant-Colonels, Majors, and Captains, who in turn appoint their subalterns. The Governor, with the consent of the Council, has power to dissolve the General Assembly, and to issue writs for a new election ; with the concurrence of five members he may suspend any member of Council, unless it be an extraordinary occasion requiring secrecy, when his power is absolute, subject to explanation at home. If there be less than seven Members of Council resident in the island, the Governor may fill up the number (to twelve,) jjro tempore^ for the dispatch of business. As Chancellor, his Excellency has the custody of the great seal, and presides in the Courts of Error and Equity, in which courts the Judges being- Council, he only sits primus inter pares, his vote or opinion being of no greater consequence than that of any other member. As Ordinary he takes probate of all testamentary writings ; in case of litigation establishes or annuls the will; and in default of executors appointed by the testator. His Excel- lency issues letters of administration according to the rules of law. As Vice-Admiral he issues his warrant to the Judfje of the Vice-Admiralty Court to grant commissions to privateers, &c. The militia force is strong and well appointed ; there are six regiments of several battalions each, together with a corps of life guards, and a numerous and brilliant staff.* The Governor of Barbadoes has a controlling authority over the British windward islands and possessions, each of which has its Lieutenant-Governor. I do not think the arrangement a good one, the rather so when St. Vincent's (for example,) possesses its own Legislative Assembly ; economy of a Go- vernor's salary seems to have been the only object sought and attained ; but, though frugality is extremely desirable, there are considerations of far greater importance than mere pecuniary advantages. * In IGCn, Barbadoes had an effective military force of 20,000 infantry and HjOOO cavalry composed of the colonists. 329 CHAPTER VIII. ST. LUCIA. LOCALITY — HISTORY — ASPECT — CLIMATE — POPULATION — COMMERCE — WEIGHTS AND MEASURES — REVENUE — MONIES — GOVERNMENT, &C. Locality. This wildly beautiful island is in lat. 13.50 N., long. 60.58 W., about thirty-two miles in length, from N. to S., and twelve broad, contains 37,500 acres of land, was — History — discovered on St. Lucia's Day, and first settled on by the English about 1635, since which period it has undergone various changes, being sometimes declared neu- tral, (as by the treaty of Aix-la-Chapelle,) next in the pos- session of the French, then captured or transferred to the British, and vice versa. By the treaty of Paris in 1763, St. Lucia was allotted to France ; and Dominica, St. Vincent, Grenada, and Tobago to England ; during the American war, in 1779, it was taken by the British, but restored to the French by the peace of 1783; it was conquered at the com- mencement of the French revolutionary war in 1794, evacuated in 1795, and retaken in 1796; by the treaty of Amiens it was restored to France in 1801, and recaptured by us in 1803. The detail of the hard fought battles for the acquisi- tion of this isle would be out of place, it may suffice to state that the fortune of war, in 1 803, has finally left it an English colony, with a French population, manners, language, and, I may add, feelings. Physical Aspect. The first approach to this island, (which is divided longitudinally by a ridge of lofty hills,) from the S. is very remarkable. An accurate observer and de- lightful writer thinks it offers one of the most striking com- binations of various kinds of scenery ever witnessed. ' Two rocks, which the gods call Pitons, and men Sugar- loaves, rise perpendicularly out of the sea, and shoot to a great height in parallel cones, which taper away towards the 330 BEAUTIFUL ASPECT OF ST. LUCIA. summit like the famous spires of Coventry. These moun- tains,* which are feathered from the clouds to the waves with evergreen foliage, stand like pillars of Hercules on either side of the entrance into a small but deep and beautiful bay. A pretty little village or plantation appears at the bottom of the cove ; the sandy beach stretches like a line of silver round the blue water, and the cane fields form a broad belt of vivid gi'een in the back-ground. Behind this, the moun- tains, which run N. and S. throughout the island, rise in the most fantastic shapes, here cloven into steep-down chasms, there darting into arrowy points, and every where shrouded or swathed, as it were, in wood, which the hand of man will probably never lay low. The clouds, which within the tropics are infallibly attracted by any woody eminences, con- tribute greatly to the wildness of the scene ; sometimes they are so dense as to bury the mountains in darkness ; at other times they float transparently like a silken veil; frequently the flaws from the gulleys perforate the vapors and make windows in the smoky mass, and then again the Avind and the sun will cause the whole to be drawn upwards majestically like the curtain of a gorgeous theatre.' While sailing along the shore the variety of scenery is exquisitely beautiful ; the back ground continues mountainous, but every three or four miles appear the most lovely little coves and bays, fringed with the luxuriant cane-fields, and enlivened by the neatly laid-out mansions of the planters ; while the flotillas of fishing and passage, or drogher boats, with their long light masts and latteen sails, add life and ani- mation to the scene. On the west coast there is an excellent harbour, called the Little Careenage, with three careening places, one for large ships, and the others for frigates. It is accessible only to one vessel at a time, (the entrance defended * The Author oi Six Months in the West Indies (Henry Nelson Coleridge, Esq.), calls them 'rocks;' they are rather mountains, round and high, and appear to have been volcanoes. In one deep valley there are several ponds, where the water hursts up with great violence, and retains some of its heat cvcu at the distance of 6,000 toises from its source. CASTRIES SPLENDID PROSPECT. 331 by several batteries) but capable of holding thirty ships of the line. The plains throughout the island are well watered, and the mountains clothed with the finest timber. Castries, the only town in the isle, is situate at the bottom of a long and winding bay of the same name. The fort is situate on the summit of Mornefortune, which is about two miles of exceeding steep road, or path, from Castries. Mr. Coleridge thinks the road perilous ; it is in a zig-zag of acute angles, and is thus described by that delightful traveller ; — ' As it rains nine months out of the twelve in St. Lucia, there are deep bricked trenches or channels traversing the path at each turn for the double purpose of carrying off the water and of checking a redundant population. But when I got to the top — oh never will that moment be forgotten by me ! — I remember staring without breath or motion as if I had been really enchanted. I never saw heaven so close before. The sky did not seem that solid ceiling with gold nails stuck in it which it does in England, but a soft transparency of showery azure, far within which, but unobscured by its intervention, the great stars- were swimming and breathing and looking down like gods of Assyria. Not only Venus and Sirius and the glorious Cross of our Faith in the south, and Charlemagne amongst tlie starris seaven low in the north, shone like segments of the moon; but hosts of other luminaries of lesser magnitude flung each its parti- cular shaft of splendor on the tranquil and shadowy sea. As I gazed, the air burst into atoms of green fire before my face, and in an instant they were gone ; I turned round, and saw all the woods upon the mountains illuminated with ten thousands of flaming torches moving in every direction, now rising, now falling, vanishing here, re-appearing there, con- verging to a globe, and dispersing in spangles. No man can conceive from dry description alone the magical beauty of these glorious creatures.'* * ' There are two sorts, the small fly, Avhich flits in and out iu the air. S32 PIGEON ISLAND — FIRE FLFES. Pigeon Island is six miles distant from the harbour of St, Lucia, and, in a military point of view, is of great importance to the colonies, being within a short distance of Martinique, and commanding a view of every ship that may enter or depart from that island ; — it is moreover valuable for a very fine and extensive anchorage between it and the N. part of St. Lucia. The isle is about half a mile in length N. and S. and a quarter broad, the side towards the sea (W.) is a perpen- dicular cliff, from the ridge or crest of which there is a gradual descent to the opposite shore, and level ground enough to erect a barrack for 500 men. A barrack and hos- pital has been constructed on this healthy spot, and it is one of the most salubrious that can be expected in a tropical clime. St. Lucia is divided into Basseterre, the low or leeward territory, and Capisterre, the high or windward territory. The former is well cultivated and most populous ; "but the climate is unwholesome from the abundance of stag- nant waters and morasses. The latter division is also un- wholesome, but it becomes of course less so as the woods are cleared away. Indeed the health of all tropical countries will be found to be in proportion to their cultivation. Population. In 1777 the island contained whites, 2,397; free coloured, 1,050; slaves, 10,752; total, 14,199. The population of each parish, according to the latest re- turns before me, was, 1st district, Castries, 4,420; Gros Islet, 1,4431; Anse la Raye, 1,03G: 2nd district, Soufriere, 4,1 IG; Choiseul, 1,375; Laborie, 1,718; Srd district, Vieux Fort, 1,399; Miconel, 1,164; Deunerie, G50; Dauphin, G66; total, 17,975. the body of which I have never examined ; and a kind of beetle, whicli keeps more to the woods, and is somewhat more stationary, like our glow-worm. This last has two broad eyes on the back of its head, which, when the phosphorescent enerjfy is not exerted, are of a dull parchment hue ; but, upon the animal's being touched, shoot forth two streams of green light as intense as the purest gas. But the chief source of splen- dour is a cleft in the belly, through which the whole interior of the beetle appears like a red-hot furnace' I TOPULATION OF ST. LUCIA — PRODUCE, &C. 333 The slave population from 1816 to 1831 was — Increase by Birth. Decrease by Death. Manumis- sion. o a m £ s s ^ S ■3 ^ V ■3 ^ Total. as !INlCA. times for two or three Aveeks. Tlie island indeed is seldom without rain in some part or the other ; and often during a promising day, the traveller meets with such sudden and heavy showers, that almost in an instant wet him to the skin, in spite of either umbrella or great coat. When the rains are violent and of long continuance they do great mischief in the island among the plantations, carrying away large tracts of land, with coffee, plantain trees, sugar canes, and ground pro- visions, which are all hurried into the sea. To the towns also they do great damage, causing the rivers to overflow their banks, or breaking out in fresh places, sweeping off houses, or whatever else stands in the way of these destructive torrents. Thunder and lightning is seldom so severe in Dominica as in many other parts of the West Indies ; neither are earth- quakes so frequent or so destructive. It has been asserted that soon after the English first took possession of the island, it was split in several places by one of those awful convul- sions of nature; and in particular, a large chasm was made in a mountain called Demoulins, so deep, that, although it was several times attempted, it never could be fathomed ; the traces of this remarkable circumstance have, however, long since disappeared. Animals, &c. The only native quadruped is the coney ; about the size of a rabbit, with the head, ears, eyes, nose, mouth, and teeth exactly like those of a rat, but with a body, legs, and hoofs like those of a hog, and a very short tail covered with bristly hair ; it springs on its hind legs like a rabbit; running with great speed when pvu'sued, and making a noise like a guinea-pig. European domesticated animals and poultry all thrive, and there are numerous wild hogs and goats in the island. Snakes, lizards and guanas* abound; frogs, or toads, of an enormous size (crapaux) are very nu- merous, and much esteemed as an article of food ; the flesh, when fricaseed, being preferred by the English as well as * For a ilcsfiiijtioii of tliis large lizard (from two to three feet long,) viuddenly jerked over the head and drawn tight. FRICASEED FROGS PREFERRED TO CHICKENS. 343 French to chickens, and when made into soup recommended for the sick, especially in consumptive cases. The forests abound with wild pigeons, mountain-ring-neck doves, and ground doves, diahlotins, and a variety of melodious and other small birds ; among which the mountain whistler, the thrush, and wren ; with the singing, whistling and chirp- ing of which the woods resound in a most delightful manner. The diablotin, thus called from its ugly appearance, is nearly the size of a duck, and web-footed, with a big rovmd head and crooked bill like a hawk, and large full eyes, like an owl : the head, part of the neck, and chief featliers of the wing and tail are black, while the other parts of its body are covered with a fine milk white down ; the whole appearance being very singular. The diablotin feeds on fish, flying in great flocks to the sea- side at night time, with hideous screams like the owl, which it resembles in its dislike to day-light. The nests are made in holes in the mountains, and the flesh is considered a delicacy, particularly when salted. Land crabs of three varieties (white, black, and red) are most plentiful ; the black and red crabs are considered ex- cellent eating ; when in season the females are full of a rich glutinous substance called the eggs, which is perfectly deli- cious ; epicurean planters have crab-pens (after tlie manner of fowl-coops) for fattening these luxuries; the white crab is said to be poisonous, from its feeding on the leaves and blos- soms of the mahavit tree. The grogo worm (vide Guyana) is another Dominica delicacy. The entomological field is full of variety for the naturalist, among which the sawyer and blacksmith flies are very curious — as also the free-mason and vegetable flies ; the latter it is said buries itself in the ground, where it dies, and from its body (which may be found perfect at the root as when alive) springs up a small plant, resemb- ling the coffee-tree, with small leaves. [Attwood's Dominica.] The rivers and rivulets are plentifully stocked with ex- cellent fish,* the principal of which are mullets, crocroes, * The frey, or fry, or spuwn of the fish which cover the rivers of Do- minica tuice or thrice every year, is esteemed one of the greatest delicacies. 844 VEGETATION OF DOMINICA — FORESTS. pike, eels, suck, and cray-fish ; — the shores of the island abound in excellent sea-fish. Vegetation. Dominica is one of the best watered of the Caribbee islands, and, with its rich soil, may be naturally expected to have a luxuriant vegetation. Under the head of Guyana, a brief description of the forest trees has been given for the W. I. possessions generally, though it was originally drawn up for Dominica: it will be sufficient therefore, to to state, that the woods afford a vast supply of excellent timber, consisting of locus-wood, bully-tree, mastic, cin- namon, rose-wood, yellow-sanders, bastard-mahogany, iron wood, several species of cedar, and various other sorts useful for building houses, vessels, and canoes, — for furniture, for dyeing, and other necessary purposes. The trees are of un- common height, and by far exceed in loftiness the tallest timber in England ; their tops seem to touch the very clouds, which appear as if skimming swiftly over the upper branches. Many are of enormous girth, and the seeds of different trees, being scattered by the wind, fall into the heart of the same plant, and thus become incorporated with the tree on which they are seen growing. Among other valuable trees in the woods of Dominica is the gum tree. The circumference of the body of this tree is generally very great, and its timber is, on that account, made into canoes, by digging or burning out the inside, and shaping the log into form. The gum falls from the body and branches of the tree in great quantities, in substance like white wax : — it was found very serviceable to the planters of that island during the time it was in possession of the French ; the gum being used instead of oil, (which could not then be had,) to burn in lamps in boiling-houses when making sugar. The Romish priests of Dominica use it likewise in their censors at funerals, and other ceremonies of their church, on account of its delightful aromatic smell M'hen burning ; it is supposed to contain virtues which might be valuable in medicines, were they better known.* The timber also of this tree, as well as that of several * Attwood's Dominica. GIGANTIC FERNS — POPULATION. J45 others in the woods, make good shingles for covering houses and staves for sugar and coffee casks. Several fine sloops and schooners have likewise been built here, and esteemed for their strength and durability. Cabbage-trees are in great plenty, and serviceable, as their trunks sawed, or split, make good laths, or rails, for cattle-pens, being very durable ; the branches and leaves are used for thatching of houses ; and the cabbage part of them is excellent eating ; when boiled it tastes much like the bottom part of an artichoke ; it makes also a good pickle. The size of the ferns (whole forests of which are found in the dips and recesses of the hills,) is very remarkable, some of them rise to the height of twenty-five feet, with the branches as finely pennated, and their colour as vivid and fresh, as the dwarfish and lowly but lovely English fern. Population. At Dominica, as elsewhere, European co- lonists have destroyed the natives. In the year 1792, Do- minica contained 938 caribs, and 349 French occupied the part of the coast which had been abandoned by the natives, and which they cultivated by the aid of twenty-three free mulattos, and 338 slaves. At the peace of 1763, the island contained 600 v/hites, and 2,000 blacks; and, in 1788, the population consisted of 1,236 whites;* 445 free negroes; and 14,967 slaves.— Total, 16,648. The population, as given in the Board of Trade returns for 1831, whites and free-coloured, males, 1,120; females, 2,538; slaves, males, 6,859; females, 7,373. — Total males, 8,979; females, 9,991.— Grand total, 18,970. The slave population has thus decreased : — Males. i Total. Increase by Birth. Decrease by Death. Manu- mission. Males. 1 Females. Total. Males. Females. Total. Total. I8I7 1820 1823 1826 1831 8,624 7,919 7,482 7,362 9,335 8,635 8,232 8,030 17,959 16,554 15,714 15,392 1 729 704 691 673 659 650 1433 1364 1309 915 818 766 833 709 727 1,748 1.527 1,493 113 103 206 OoMMERCE. It may be expected, from the foregoing state- * At present ihere are about 840 whites. 346 COMMERCE OF DOMINICA REVENUE AND EXPENDITURE. ment, that the trade of the settlement has undergone great changes. During the year ending 5th of January, 1788, its exports were, — Sugar 1,302 cwt.; Rum 63,392 gal.; Molasses 16,803 gal. Cocoa 1,194 cwt.; Coffee 18,149 cwt. ; Indigo 11,250 lbs.; Cotton 970,816 lbs.; Cotton 161 cwt,; Hides, dye woods, &c. £11,912 10*. 9(/. In 1831 the total value of the exports was £118,761 ster- ling, and the imports £81,835. — [For a detail of the impor- tations of sugar, coffee, &c. into Great Britain, vide Ap- pendix and General View of the West Indies.] The shipping entering inwards for the same year was 214, and 1 1,709 tons ; outwards 213, and 11,256 tons. The principal articles of export from 1826 to 1830 were, — I Years. Sugar. Cofifee. Rum. Molass. Years. Sugar. 1 Coflfee. 1 Rum. Molass. 1826 1827 1828 hds. 31/8 2957 3888 cwts. 13,350 l,193,359lbS. 2,546,635 .. pun. 326 331 548 pun. 740 833 1,136 1829 ! 1830 1 1831 hds. ' cwts. 3805 1,096,223 lbs. 4071 1,311,473 .. pun. 659 873 pun. 786 254 Finance. The revenue is raised generally as in the other West India colonies. Its amount for 1831 was but £6,300, while the expenditure was £28,765,* the difference being made up by Parliamentary grant. The island is quite ade- quate to every proper civil expense ; — any extra military strength should, in part, be defrayed by the mother country for the benefit of all the possessions. Dominica gross Revenue and Expenditure in pounds ster- ling.f— 1821 1822 1823 1824 1825 1826 Revenue, Colonial and British. Col. Rev. 6211 4841 5689 5932 8810 8222 Parliamentary Grant. Expenditure. Civ. 586: 6686 4922 4206 7/05 7999 636 544 557 752 778 792 6498 7230 5479 4958 8483 8791 1827 182S 1829 1830 1831 1832 Revenue, Colonial and British. Col. Rev. 6102 1386 7530 6327 6300 Parlia- mentary Grant. 23,899 21,982 23,762 22,614 Expenditure. Civ. 4488 8400 7421 7926 1,214 20,663 20,42/ 22,672 20,839 5,702 29,063 29,325 30,093 28,765 Of this sum .£20,839 was for garrisons, t It will be observed that this island has its revenue assisted from the British Treasury as a military station of importance. GOVERNMENT — MILITIA — EDUCATION — CROWN LANDS. 347 Government, &c. There is a Lieutenant-Governor, a Council of Twelve, and a Representative Legislative As- sembly of nineteen Members to administer the affairs of the colonists ; and there are courts of Grand Session, of Common Pleas, of Complaint and of Petty Sessions. The militia is an excellent body of men, little inferior to regular troops, and under the same regulations as in the other islands. There is a public free-school, with 140 male and forty fe- male scholars, at an annual expense of £130 — and education is making considerable progress. Fourteen places of worship exist in the colony, at an expense of £340 ; and if we take the small number of prisoners for 1831 (ten males and one female) as a criterion, the morals of the population are fa- vourable. On the whole, Dominica, from its admirable situa- tion, strong fortifications, fine climate and fertile soil, is a very valuable colony. A part of the crown lands admirably adapted for cultivation consists of a large run of woodland, known by the name of the Lazon Flats, extending across the island to Paguon or Commis- sioners' Bay, and comprising a surface of 20,000 acres, covered with the most valuable and durable timber, nearly on the same level, and watered by a great number of small streams, forming the Mahout and Lazon rivers on the W. side, and the Quanary and Pagoua rivers on the E. of the island. This land is stated by the intelligent Surveyor-General of the island, Mr. Finlay, to be admirably adapted to the cultivation of cocoa, coffee and all kinds of provisions ; large pastures might easily be formed for cattle ; its elevation above the level of the sea is from 800 to 1 ,000 feet ; the general tem- perature G8 to 75 Farenheit ; and there are no local impedi- ments but a want of funds, or it may be said of population, to demonstrate the advantages which would arise from Euro- peans colonizing this delightful West Lidia island. 348 CHAPTER X. ISIONTSERRAT. LOCALITY — HISTORY — PHYSICAL ASPECT — GEOLOGY — PRODUCTIONS — POPULATION COMMERCK GOVERNMENT, &C. Locality. This romantic isle * in 16. 47. N. Lat., 62. VS. 25. W. Long., 22 S. W. of Antigua, the same distance N. W. of Guadaloupe, and S. E. of Nevis ; being about twelve miles long, seven and a half broad, and thirty-four in circum- ference, and containing forty-seven square miles, or about 30,000 acres. History. The isle was discovered and named by the sailors of Columbus Montserrat, a name expressive in the Spanish language of its broken and mountainous appearance. * I cannot abstain from paying a tribute to genius, and at the same time to the beauty of the West India isles, as evinced in the following' truly poetic apostrophe of JMr. Coleridge, which though some may think out of place in a work of this sort, I am fur from agreeing with them. I would delight to witness the blending of the muses' labours with those of the statists, that the elegance of the former might lighten the (to some) cheerless and uninviting array of figures of the latter ; and wherefore shoidd I desire it otherwise? are not the heaviest toils and most arduous enterprises of man soothed and cheered by the presence and encouraging smiles of woman ? Does not the soft and lovely moss deck the sterile mountain's brow? thus should it be with statistics and poesy: — Beautiful islands ! where the green Yet oft I see in noonday dream Which Nature wears was never seen Your glorious stars with lunar beam; 'Neath zone of Europe ;— where the hue And oft before my sight arise Of sea and heaven is such a blue, Your sky-like seas, your sea like skies. As England dreams not; where the night Your green banana's giant leaves, Is all irradiate with the light Your golden canes in arrowy sheaves. Of stars like moons, which, hung on high. Your palms which never die, but stand Breathe and quiver in the sky. Immortal sea marks on the strand,— Each its silver haze divine Their feathery tufts like plumage rare, Flinging iu a radiant line, Their stems so high, so strange and fair ! O'er gorgeous flower and mighty tree Yea ! while the breeze of England now On the soft and shadowy sea ! Flings rose-scents on my aching brow, Beautiful islands ! brief the time i tliink a moment I inhale 1 dwelt beneath your awful clime ; Again the breatlj of tropic gale. PHYSICAL ASPECT — PERPENDICULAR MOUNTAINS. 349 In 1632 it was first settled on by Sir Thomas Warner, under the protection of the British Government ; about 1664, in the beginning of the reign of Charles II. it was taken by the French, but restored to the English at the peace of Breda, and has continued ever since under our flag. Physical Aspect. Like many other islands in its vicinity, Montserrat most probably owes its origin to a volcanic erup- tion ; like them it runs from S, E. to N. W., is equally moun- tainous, broken, and intersected ; on the N. the extremity of the mountain chain terminates in a bold head-land coast, close to which vessels may approach with safety, but there is no landing, and scarcely any anchorage along the coast ; the land slopes gently down to the shore, or rather ascends from it, like the W. side of the island, by a succession of round conglomerate hills, overtopping each other in pleasing undu- lations until they reach the mountain base. On the S. there is no approach for vessels of any descrip- tion until they get to the westward ; the sea for a mile or two is studded with immense rocks and shelving banks of coral, which prohibit even the approach of boats ; at this point the island springs up at once, and nearly perpendicular, to the height of 1,500 feet ; from thence the mountains begin to accumulate, throwing out branches nearly at right angles E. and W., of unequal magnitude, as if for supporters, to those originally formed ; subsequently they advance and shoot up to 2,500 feet, stretching across to the N. extremity, and terminating in the abrupt head-land above-mentioned. The mountains in many places are totally inaccessible in consequence of their declivities forming steep precipices of clay-stone, and being separated from each other by immense perpendicular chasms, several hundred feet deep. These gullies, and the mountains, are richly clothed to the very summit with lofty woods, and all the variety of beautiful shrubs and plants peculiar to a tropical mountain region. On the S. W. side of the chain is a small souffriere, situate 1,000 feet above the sea in a dell, formed by the approximation of 850 PICTURESQUE APPEARANCE OF MONTSERRAT. three conical hills — the scenery around which is grand and beautiful.* No marshes exist, but a small lake is situate on * The road from Plymouth (the capital of JMontserrat,) to the Souffriere lies at first along the margin of the sea, winding inwards by a gentle ac- clivity towards the mountains, and is thus beautifully described by Mr. Coleridge, whose language I quote, that it may not be thought I am pre- judiced in favour of the West Indies — * The path was like one of my native Devonshire lakes : no primroses or violets were there, indeed, but the snowy amaryllis (pancratia Carib- bea), drooped her long and delicate petals like a love-sick girl ; the thrice gorgeous hibiscus was unveiling his crown and feathers of scarlet, and the light limes and darker orange trees, which formed a verdant hedge on either side, were exhaling their perfumed incense to Him who made them so beautiful and so good. A thin grey cloud obscured the sun, whilst an Atlantic breeze blew gently and freshly upon my face and open neck. The air was as cool as on a May morning in England, but so inexpressibly soft, so rare and subtle to the senses, that I may think the ether which angels breathe cannot be purer stuff than this. After this I nearly broke my neck in a dry guUey which was about as good a bridle-path as the steps to the top of St. Paul's. The gully ended in one of those green Savannas which nature has ofttimes so mysteriously cleared in the midst of the impenetrable virgin woods of tropical regions. No jdifFerence of soil or situation can be the cause ; you may lean your back against the frontier tree of a forest which no axe or torch have ever invaded, and stretch your l)ody on the meadow turf where scarcely a weed can be seen. There is no man to fell these trees or divert their growth ; there is uo hedge or wall or trench to impede their march ; but God said to the Forest as he said to the Sea, ' Thus far shalt thou go, and no farther.' The view was beautiful ; behind me the woody mountain rose into the clouds, before me it descended into a long grassy slope to the edge of the sea ; on my left hand to the south, the broad and irregular eminences of Guadaloupe presented the appearance of a continent; to the north Redonda shone like an emerald in the midst of the blue waves, and beyond it stood the great pyramid of Nevis, cut off from sight at one third from its summit by an ever-resting canopy of clouds. The wind was so fresh, the air so cool, the morning-dew so healthy and spangling, that I might have forgotten, but for the deep beauty that was around me, that I Avas still within the tropics. I seemed to have left all languor and listlessness below, and really felt the strength, the spirits, and the elasti- city of youthful life in England. ' We began to descend a circuitous and over-arched path to the vale of GEOLOGY — CLIMATE OF THE W. I. MONTPELLIER. 351 the top of a high hill on the west side of the mountains, about two miles from Plymouth, which remains full the whole year. Plymouth, the capital is small, but extremely well built, and the houses constructed of a fine grey stone, have a substan- tial and comfortable appearance. Geology. The same geological features mark Montserrat as are to be found in the neighbouring isles ; many of the rocks might be termed vast masses of cla?/ of various hues and colours. The conical hills abound with carbonate of lime, ironpyrites, and aluminous earth. The superstrative soil is in general dry, light, thin, gravelly, and thickly covered with blocks of clay and sandstone, except in the vallies where the loamy earth is deposited by rains. Climate. The Montpellier of the W. is the term given to this Indian isle, which has long been celebrated for the Soufrifere. The whole of the bottom of the (dell) valley is broken into vast and irregular masses of clay and lime-stone, which are scattered about in the utmost confusion, and render it a laborious task to scramble and leap from one to another. The surface of the ground is hot every- where, and so much so near the streams of water which ran between the fragments that I could not keep my foot half a minute upon it. The water at its source boils up violently, and very gradually cools as it finds its way in a thousand meanders to the sea. A thick vapor slowly rises upwards till it meets the wind, which cuts it off at a straight line and drives it down to the coast. The sides of the mounds of clay are entirely crusted with pure alum, formed by the constant action of the sulphuric acid of the water and the exhalations. In the midst of all this there is a green and luxuriant vegetation of bushes and creepers ; some of the flowers v>ere marvellously beautiful, and seemed to me to be peculiar to the spot. The mountains, which rampart round this solitary glen, are of a skeyey height ; they appear indeed higher than they really are, for their lancet peaks are never seen except dimly and at intervals through the vast and moving masses of clouds, which are first driven from the east against the other side of the sierra, then are pressed upwards, and at last come rolling and tuml)ling over the summits into the vale below. The wood which clothes every inch of Chance's Mountain is soft, level, and uniform, feathering him with a grass-like plumage as an Indian warrior, whilst every branch and every leaf bends devotedly forwards to the setting sun under the unceasing breath of the Trade-wind.' 352 POPULATION OF MONTSERRAT — IRISH BROGUE. peculiar elasticity of its atmosphere, the majestic grandeur of its picturesque and lofty mountains and bewitching scenery. The temperature of course varies according to locality. On the windward and leeward sides, and according to the eleva- tion above the sea, the air is generally cool and dry ; — the seasons are similar to those of the neighbouring isles ; it is subject to hurricanes, but their visitation are not severe or frequent. Population. This island, like many of our W. I. possessions, was at one time more densely peopled by European colonists than it is at present. In 1648 there were 1,000 white families, with a militia of 360 effective Europeans. In 1791 there were about 1,300 whites, and 10,000 negroes.* The white population is now (exclusive of King's troops and their families,) males, 175, females, 213 ; free-coloured, males, 234, females, 320. Another return gives the white and free-coloured at males, 467, females, 677 ; slaves, males, 2,859, females, 3,350 — total males, 3,326, females, 4,027 — Grand total, 7,353. The increase and decrease of the slave population, since 1817, was — s Total. Increase by Birth, Decrease by Death. Manu- mission. Males. Females. Total. Males. Females. Total. Total. 1817 3,047 3,563 6,610 1K21 3,0;i2 3,473 6,505 329 281 610 318 279 697 40 18241 2.878 3,400 6,278 313 289 602 327 286 613 32 1827 2,867 3,395 6,262 314 328 642 265 261 529 44 1831 * Montserrat had Irish colonists for its early settlers, and the negroes to this day have the Connaught brogue curiously and ludicrously en- grafted on the African jargon. It is said that a Connaught man, on ar- riving at Montserrat, was, to his astonishment, hailed in vernacular Irish by a negro from one of the first boats that came alongside — ' Thunder and turf,' exclaimed Pat, 'how long have you been here?' — 'Three months,' answered Quashy, ' Three months ! and so black already ! ! Hanum ajoid' says Pat, thinking Quashy a ci-devant countryman, ' I'll not stay among ye;' and in a few hours the Connaught man was on his return, with a white skin, to the emerald isle. PRODUCTIONS, COMMERCE, &C. OF MONTSERRAT. 353 There are six public or free schools, with 298 males, and 390 female scholars, and five places of worship, capable of holding 1,000 persons.* Productions, Commerce, &c. The details enumerating staple products as given under the other islands answer for Montserrat, the sugar and rum of which are much esteemed.f The exports of sugar in 1830, was 1,408 hogsheads; and of rum 982 puncheons ; the value of the exports £29,729 ; and of the imports, £17,781, shipping inwards, 5,824 tons, outwards, 6,576.j: Government. The executive is embodied in the Govern- ment of Antigua, but the islanders enjoy their separate Council and House of Assembly, the former consisting of six members and the latter of eight, i. e. two from each of the four districts into which the island is divided. The gross annual revenue of the isle is about £2,500. * Since the foregoing pages went to press I have found, among my par- liamentary docmnents, the following census of Montserrat in 1828 — Males. Females. Total, Whites, 139 176 315 Free coloured, 337 481 818 Slaves, 2,923 3,324 6,247 Total 3,399 3,981 7,380 of the population 4,600 were engaged in agriculture, 30 in manufactures, and 40 in commerce. In 1830 the births were 233, and the deaths 33. f Indigo was formerly raised in great quantities. X This little island, in common with Barbadoes, Antigua, Nevis, St. Kitts, and Tortola, is suffering under the grievous exaction of the four and a half per cent, duties, which have amounted since their first establishment to the enormous sum of .^6,851,640. sterling ! VOL. II. A A 354 CHAPTER XI. ANTIGUA. LOCALITY — HISTORY — ASPECT — GEOLOGY — CLIMATE — VEGETATION ICHTHYOLOGY — POPULATION — COMMERCE — REVENUE — GOVERNMENT, &C. Locality. This fertile island is situate in lat. 17.3 N. long. 62.7 W. 40 miles N. of Guadaloupe, 25 N. E. of Montserrat, 30 S. of Barbuda, extending in parallel lines from Friar's Head in the E. to Peyrson's Point in the W., 15| miles ; containing from Shirley's Heights in the S. to Boon's Point in the N. 11| miles, being about 20 miles long, about 54 in circumference, and containing 108 square miles, equi- valent to 69,277 acres. History. Antigua was discovered by Christopher Colum- bus, on his second voyage, in 1493, and named by him, from a church in Seville, Santa Maria de la Antigua. Next to Barbadoes and St. Christopher's it is the oldest British co- lony in the leeward isles, having been settled by Sir Thomas Warner* with a few English fomilies in 1632. In 1666 a French armament from Martinique and Guadaloupe, assisted by some Caribs, got temporary possession of the island, and plundered the planters unmercifully. By the treaty of Breda the island was in 1688 finally settled under the British do- minion,f and by means of free trade, and beneath the auspices of the Codrington family, rapidly prospered. * Antigua was granted to Lord Willougliby, of Parham, by Charles II. in 1663. f Want of space has unavoidably compelled me to omit the notice of local events in each colony ; an occurrence, however, which took place in Antigua, deserves being chronicled, not less for its daring and san- guinary nature than because it has no parallel in our Colonial annals. Colonel Daniel Parke (a man whose character has been alternately con- demned and praised,) succeeded, in 1706, to the Government of Antigua, PHYSICAL ASPECT OF ANTIGUA. 355 Physical Aspect. Antigua is nearly of an oval shape, with an extremely irregular coast, indented with numerous bays, and almost surrounded by islets, rocks, and shoals, which render the approach to it very dangerous on every side except to the S. W. More than one-half of the island on the N. E. is low, in some places rather marshy, and inter- spersed with gentle acclivities and swelling eminences, which, if less denuded of trees, would present the beautiful hill and dale scenery of England. Towards the S. and S. W. the elevation of the land gradually increases, forming round backed hills of a moderate height, generally running E. and W. intersected by cultivated vallies, and partially^cloathed with small trees and brushwood. The greatest elevation (computed at 1210 feet) is on the Sheckerley range of moun- tains, called Boggles Hill, about six miles to the W. of Monks Hill. The highest district may be said to take its rise from Falmouth, and to continue with various elevations to Five Island Harbour. The height to the N. E. and S. W. is not considerable, but on the latter part the hills are occa- sionally bold and precipitous, forming numerous ravines and vallies, their summits being extemely irregular, sometimes round, — at other times conical, and occasionally tabular; the rest of the island may, as a general feature, be said to consist of broad slopes, and repeatedly occurring undula- tions. No island in the W. Indies can boast of so many excellent bays and harbours, but they are all, except those of St. John, English Harbour, and Falmouth, (which require pilots) vacant by the death of Sir Christopher Codrington. During four j'cars of Colonel Parke's administration, party spirit and Colonial feuds rose to the greatest height ; the House of Assembly refused to be dissolved by the Governor ; the Colonists finally rose, en masse, in arms against Parke, who, with the aid of the Queen's troops, gallantly defended himself for some time, until many of the soldiers were killed, and the Governor and several of the officers wounded ; the unfortunate Parke was then dragged into the streets, his cloaths torn from him, and his back broken with the musket stocks, in which condition he soon expired. S56 VIEW ON ENTERING ANTIGUa's CAPITAL. difficult of access.* St. John's, the capital,f is irregularly laid out, pretty large, and built on the N. W. side of the island, at the head of a large but not deep harbour, the N. side of * The other bays and harbours are St. Freeman's (at the entrance of English harbour.) Rendezvous Bay, Morris Bay, Five Island Harbour, Lydesenfis Bay, Parharn, Nonsuch, and Willoughby harl)ours, and Indian Creek, contig')ious to Freeman's Bay. t Mr. Coleridge thu.s beautifully describes his feelings on entering the harbour of the capital of Antigua — ' This is, without exception, the prettiest little harbour I ever saw. The extreme neatness of the docks, the busy village which has grown up in their vicinity, the range of hills of various shapes and colours, which encircle the inland sides, and the rocky Ridge which frowns over the mouth, with its Union, and cannons, and ramparts, presents such a com- bination of tropical beauty, and English style and si)irit, as I never saw elsewhere in the West Indies. ' I was very pleasantly surprised with the look of the country. An- tigua is so generally spoken of as a dry and adust place, where the earth refuses to yield water for the use of man, that I received more than ordi- nary pleasure in gazing on the gentle wooded hills and green meadow vales which decorate the interior of the island. Antigua on a larger scale is formed like Anguilla, that is, without any central eminences, but for the most part ramparted around by very magnificent cliffs, which slope inwards in gradual declivities. From some of these rocks, espe- cially near the parsonage of St. Philip's parish, one of the finest pano- ramic views in the world may be obtained. The whole island, which is of a rough circular figure, lies in sight ; the grand fortifications on the Ridge and Monk's Hill silently menace the subject fields ,• St. John's rises distinctly with its church on the north-western horizon, whilst the woods which cover the sides and crest the summit of Figtree Hill just break the continuity of sea in the south-west. The heart of the island is verdant, with an abundant pasturage or grassy down, and the numerous houses of the planters, embosomed in trees, have more of the appearance of country mansions in England than almost any other in the West Indies. The shores are indented in every direction with creeks and bays and coves, some of them running into the centre of the plantations like canals, some swelling into estuaries, and others forming spacious har- bours. Beyond these, an infinite variety of islands and islets stud the bosom of the blue sea, and stand out like so many advanced posts of defence against the invading waves. 1 hey are of all shapes and sizes, and are given up to the rearing of provisions and the maintenance of a ST. John's harbour — military station. Sol which is partly fbi'med by an elevated rock, called Rat Island,* about midway up the harbour, and connected with the main land by a causeway, which is submerged at high water. From St. John's to the extreme N. and N. E. of the island the land is generally very low, interspersed with numerous ponds and marshy hollows ; but, with these exceptions, the surface of the whole is sufficiently varied to prevent the ac- cumulation and stagnation of water on its surface. Monks- hill (a military station) gradually rises from the bottom of Falmouth Bay, and, as it ascends, becomes precipitous till surmounted by Great George Fort,f at the height of 625 feet, commanding to the N. and N. E. an extensive view of a great number of cattle. From the same hill, when the western sky is clear, Guadaloupe, Montserrat, Nevis, and St. Kitt's may all be distin- guished by the naked eye. ' The tortuous descent of Figtree Hill, though not so rich and im- posing as the mountains and vallies of Trinidad, is yet a landscape so exquisitely beautiful that no painter or poet, who had once seen it, could ever forget the sight. A prodigious number of forest trees grow on the tops and declivities of the clitFs, and luxuriant festoons and knots and nets of evergreen creepers connect them all together in one great tracery of leaves and l)ranches. The wild pine sparkled on the large limbs of the wayside trees ; the dagger-like Spanish needle (bidens pilosa), the quilled piraploe (cactus tuna), and the maypole aloe (agave Americana), shooting upwards to twenty feet with its yellow flowering crown on high, formed an impenetrable mass of vegetation around the road, and seemed fixed on purpose there to defend the matchless purple- wreaths or lilac jessamines, which softened the dark foliage amongst which they hung-, from being plucked by the hand of the admiring traveller. Meanwhile a vigorous song of birds arose, and made the silent defile ring with the clear morning sound of European warblers, in the midst of which, and ever and anon, some unseen single creature uttered a long-drawn quivering note, which struck upon my ear with the richness and the melancholy of a human voice. Many persons have re- marked the extraordinary tones of this bird, but I could not learn anv name for it. It is the love-lorn nightingale of a silent tropic noon.' * On this isle a regiment was stationed during the war, but the build- ings are now solely used as a Colonial hospital. f Great George Fort at Monk's Hill extends over about ten acres of ground. It was constructed by the colony, at a very great expense, as a 358 GEOLOGICAL FEATURES OF ANTIGUA. highly cultivated country, overlooking the bay below the pe- ninsula of Middle Ground, English Harbour, and the Ridge, whilst in the distant horizon are to be seen Guadaloupe, Montserrat, and in clear weather Nevis and St. Christopher's. English Harbour is a very complete dock-yard, on a small scale, surrounded by hills, on one of which at the N. E. the naval hospital is situate. With the exception of a few scanty rivulets amongst the hills, the whole island is desti- tute of running water, and the wells, heretofore dry, have proved brackish ; ponds, and tanks are, therefore, the main- stay of the planters. The plan of boring for water should be adopted. Geology. The soil of the high lands is of a red clay, ar- gillaceous, with a substratum of marl ; in the low lands it is a rich dark mould, on a substratum of clay. The most su- perficial strata occupy the N. and E. parts, and are of a cal- careous formation, and the outline of the district is in round hills and knolls, similar to those found in the chalk districts of England. Through the stratum of marl which appears on the surface run layers and irregular masses of limestone, con- taining a variety of fossil shells, nodules of calcareous spar, cellular and chrystalized quartz, chalcedony, agate, and coral- lines, both in a calcareous and silicious state. A calcareous sandstone is also found in this marl formation, composed of place of refuge for the wives and children of the inhabitants, in the event either of insurrection or foreign invasion : permission being given to them, under certain restrictions, to build houses for the reception of their families. These houses have fallen in ruins. The fortress is still supported by the Colony, and, from its commanding situation, has very properly been selected as a signal station, displaying to most parts of the island information of the arrival of mails from England, which is first communicated by signal from Rat Island, in the harbour of St. John. From this elevated point, on one side, an extensive country of planta- tions, stretching to the extreme verge of the opposite shores of the island, forms a most singular and pleasing contrast with the scene which the diflferent eminences, and the fortifications and harbours already noticed, present on the other. The town, or rather village of Falmouth, lies im- mediately under the brow of this hill to the southward. VARIETY OF FORMATION. CLIMATE. 359 silicious particles, carbonate of lime, and a little oxyde of iron. A breccia also frequently appears, consisting of an ag- glutination of fragments of different coloured porphyries. No bones of the larger animals have been found in this for- mation. The coarse chert, or flint, is seen in irregular masses on the surface, breaking into sharp angular blocks, and containing a great quantity of petrified wood and casts of shells. Petrified wood is also found on the surface of the conglomerate and marl formations, often so delicate and beautiful, that the colour of the wood and the distinctive form of its fibre are perfectly preserved. Agate, cornelian, and chalcedony, are frequently seen intermingled in the same spe- cimen. Nitrate of potass, like a hoar frost, covers the flat oozy shore which bounds the bay of Falmouth on the N. and E. On a general view, the geological form.ation of the island may be said to consist of marl, conglomerate chert and trap.* Marl forms the greater part, and extends over the whole N. and N. E. part ; trap, the S. W. ; conglomerate, an inter- vening section, extending inland from St. John's Harbour, and chert, embracing a section with the latter segment. The fossils and petrified woods found in Antigua, when polished, are exquisitely beautiful. Climate. Owing to the elevation of the land, and the absence of dense and lofty woods, visible in Jamaica, Do- minica, &c., the climate of Antigua is dry, and the rainy season so uncertain, that sometimes a great part of the hur- * Dr. Nugent divides the island into four distinct classifications. The range of mountains, or rather highlands, in the S. W. quarter, consisting of unstratified conglomerate, composed of masses of trap, breccia, wack^, porphyry, greenstone, &c. which are embedded in a clay matrix with brownish decomposing chlorite baldagd. Parallel with this range inland, a ditFerent formation appears, consisting of a claystone conglo- merate, containing silicified wood, coralline chert, agate, amygdaloid, porphyr)' slate, bloodstone, &c. in a matrix of an intense green colour. The N. and E. districts have a calcareous formation subordinate to the lowest beds, of which, and nearly in the centre of the island, are extensive irregular masses of coarse chert, containing a prodigious quantity of casts of shells. 560 ANNUAL METEOROLOGICAL RETURNS OF ANTIGUA. ricane season pass away without rain. The dry season ge- nerally commences in January, continuing to April or May, and from June to the end of the year the rains are usually abundant. Hurricanes seldom occur,* and when they do are less devastating than in some of the other islands ; slight shocks of earthquakes are not unfrequent, but latterly they have seldom occasioned any damage.-j- Owing to the great dryness of the climate, the temperature is less subject to the variations observed in the other islands; heavy dews are not often experienced, and the thermometer seldom ranges more than 4" in the 24 hours. On the ridges, or hills, the tempe- rature is considerably modified by the sea breezes, or trade winds, which occasionally shift a few points to the N. and South. The following table shews the medium and fall of rain for 1826, (the latest year in my possession). January February March . , April May . . . . June Medium Temp. Rain. 78.1 2.99 77.2 2.44 76-9 1.19 78.2 1.26 80.7 5.11 80.8 4.19 1 July August . . . September October . . . November December . Medium Temp. 81.8 82.1 82.4 81.4 78.4 78.3 Rain. 1. 8 1.69 5. 7 2.36 4. 5 2.98 Shewing an annual medium of temperature of 79.68, and a total annual fall of rain of 35.58. Vegetable Kingdom. Antigua is most bountifully sup- plied with a variety of edible vegetables and fruit ; the yam, sweet potatoe, cassave, cabbage, turnips, carrots, radishes, eddoes, squash pumpkin, cucumber, plantain, ochro (spin- nage), &c. are among the former; and among the latter are the orange, mango, guana, shaddock, sweet lemon, pine apple, sapadillo, pomegranate, grenadilla, plum, grape, al- • The most severe hurricanes were those of 1681, I/O/, 1740, 1772, 1780, and 1792. t A dreadful carth* Males. Females. Total. Males. Females. Total. 1^ 1817 9635 10,483 20,l6S 1922 9505 10,312 19,817 1132 1187 2319 1424 1415 2839 217 1825 9324 10,192 19,516 901 765 1666 892 799 1691 265 1828 9198 10,112 19,310 858 848 1706 845 758 1603 243 1831 9141 9,944 19,085 827 801 1628 801 729 1515 243 Commerce, Revenue, &c. Sugar is now the principal product of St. Kitts,* and the amount of the crop varies of course with the seasons. There was of sugar produced in 1830, 8,700 hogsheads ; rum, 2,429 puncheons; Molasses, 1,236 puncheons. The aggregate quantity of produce, cleared out from the Port of Basseterre, from 11th of October, 1829, to 10th of October, 1830, was. Sugar, 8,658 hogsheads; 506 tierces; 1,073 barrels — rum, 2,429 puncheons; 8 barrels; 125^ hogs- heads — Molasses, 1,236 puncheons — Lime juice, 1 puncheon — Shrub, 1 pipe — Arrow Root, 49^ boxes, 1 puncheon — Ginger, 9 barrels — Tamarinds, 10 kegs, 4 barrels — Pickles, 62 jars — Preserves, 30 cases, 6 jars — Cocoa nuts, 1 barrel. The value of imports in 1831 was £59,518; and the ex- ports £149,559, employing a tonnage inwards of 29,152, and outwards of 27,881. The produce cleared from Basseterre, the year ending 10th October, 1832, was, sugar, 5,267 hogsheads ; 335 tierces ; 4,824 barrels — rum, 1,014 puncheons, 22 hogsheads — Mo- lasses, 3,384 puncheons — Arrow root, 84 boxes, 6J barrels — salt, 2,080 barrels. * Great attention is bein^ paid to agriculture ; an association for the promotion of which was established in June, and for the discussion of all subjects relating thereto. The meetings are held quarterly, when ploughing inatclies take place, and prizes are distributed for shew of cattle, &c. &c. EXPORTS, REVENUE, AND EXPENDITURE. 375 Principal Exports from St. Christophers : — Years. Sa^r. Rum. Molasses. Years. Sugar. Rum. Molaisses. hds. punch. punch. hds. punch. punch. 1822 6,991 509 160 1827 7,514 1,271 2,186 1823 6,006 421 1,314 1828 No return. 1824 9,197 1,502 3,2S6 1829 8,801 2,359 1 1,763 1825 6,670 1,031 2,893 1830 8,781 2,882 1 1,250 1826 8,987 1,735 2,369 1831 The revenue of the island is derived from custom duties, Hcenses, &c. as in our other possessions. The gross revenue and expenditure in £ sterling for 1823. > Revenue. Expendi- ture. Revenue. Expendi- ture. a >• Revenue. Expendi- ture. 1823 1824 1825 7,158 12,031 9,072 7,158 9,420 6,179 1826 1827 1828 5,413 3,846 4,957 5,626 5,333 5,873 1829 1830 1831 8,746 6,937 6,897 4,933 Monies. The coins of the island are principally English, with some Spanish; and there is also a colonial coin sent from England, consisting of the following pieces. Pieces •? dollar Currency 2*. of/. Sterling 1*. 1 J d'. ^ — — 1*. lid. — 6id. -^ — — 6\d. — 3ld. The copper coin used, (besides the English penny,) is the dog, which passes for three farthings sterling, 72 making the Spanish dollar ; the bitt is a nominal coin, value 4i sterling. This description of the coin of St. Kitt's will serve generally for the Virgin Isles, and indeed for the whole of the W. I. isles, as regards the same denomination, unless where other- wise specified. Government. There is a Lieutenant-Governor, Council, and House of Assembly at St. Kitt's, (with a deputy from Anguilla). Education* and religion are generously encou- raged, and the Colonists have ever manifested a great deal of public spirit. * The number of public, or free schools, is six, with 2,002 scholars. There is also an institution for the support and education of poor and desti- tute children, which was established by private subscription in 1803, and is 376 NEVIS — LOCALITY— PHYSICAL ASPECT, &C. NEVIS. Locality, &c. This beautiful little island, (one of the leeward Caribbees,)* is reparated from St. Kitt's by a strait, almost two miles broad, and full of shoals, in lat. 17.14 N. long-. 63.3 W. It was first colonized by a few Englishmen in 1628, under Sir Thomas Warner. Physical Aspect. Nevis is a single mountain, about four miles in length, three in breadth, eight leagues in cir- cumference, with an area of twenty square miles, springing by an easy ascent, as it were, out of the sea, and evidently of volcanic origin.f At the base of the mountain is a border of level land, extremely fertile and well planted. The ap- pearance of Nevis is perhaps the most captivating of any island in the West Indies. From the S. and W. it seems to be nothing but a single cone rising with the most graceful curve out of the sea, and piercing a fleecy mass of clouds which sleep for ever round its summit. It is green as heart can conceive, perfectly cultivated, and enlivened with many old planters' houses of a superior style, and churches peeping out in the most picturesque situations imaginable. A com- now provided for out of the public Treasury of the island. The present state of the school is— Boys. Girls. PennaneMt hoarders - - 8 4 12 Day Ditto - - 13 9 22 Day scholars - - 19 22 41 Total - 75 Excellent private subscription rooms were formed in 181/, and re- ceived a Charter of Incorporation in 1827. The principal object of the Society the • S ph § h s & 1 S S S u< S s, 1822 2,702 3,220 5,251 5,019 7,953 8,239 1827 3,164 3,626 4,690 4,724 7,854 8,350 lSi3 2,712 3,246 5,151 5,019 7,963 8,265 1828 3,214 3,731 4,691 4,606 7,903 8,337 1824 3,149 3,610 5,251 5,019 8,400 8,629 1829 3,368 3,863 4,692 4,606 8,060 8,469 182.5! 3,149 3,610 4,592 4,594 7,761 8,204 1830 3,368 3,863 4,692 4,606 8,060 8,469 1826 3,194 3,653 4,592 4,594 7,786 8,247 1831 3,668 3,863 4,727 4,830 8,095 8,693 Produce and Commerce. European and tropical vege- tables and fruits thrive and are abundant ; beef, mutton and poultry, good and plentiful ; the shores abound with fish, and there is turtle enough among the Bahamas to supply all Europe ; almost every island has pretty good water ; am- bergris is occasionally found ; cotton was formerly an abun- dant article of exportation, and there is scarcely a spot in any of the islands that is not covered with a luxuriant vegetation. Ship timber, of a most excellent quality, is abundant on many of the Bahama islands; logwood, brazilletto, fustic, green ebony, and satin wood, are produced in considerable quan- tities, for building or planking vessels ; the cedar, horseflesh, madeira, mastic, and other durable woods, in great plenty, and there is an inexhaustible supply of very superior fire- wood; sponges of good quality abound on the island shores, and the water from the wells at New Providence has the de- sirable quality of keeping good at sea for any length of time. The agricultaral stock in the Bahamas in 1831 consisted of 1,165 horses, asses, and mules ; 3,250 horned cattle, 5,975 sheep and goats ; and 3755 swine. The quantity of produce raised was 30,350 bushels of Indian corn (at 4,s. 4^d. market price per bushel); 74,250 lbs of potatoes and yams (at 6s, per 892 VARIED PRODUCE AND COMMERCE EMIGRATION. cwt.) ; 3225 bushels of peas and beans (at 5s. lOd, per bushel) ; 38,465 dozen of pine apples (at 2s. per dozen) ; 22 tons of cotton (at 5d. per pound) ; 30,500 melons and pumpkins (at 3s. per doz.); 31,300 lbs. of ocre (at 2d. per lb.) ; and 19 tons of cassada, or cassavaj (vide Bi'itish Guyana for a description), at 10*. per cwt. The principal articles of export in 1831 were, cotton 69 bales ; bark 70,320 lbs. ; brazi^ictto 255 tons ; fustic, 308 tons. The value of the imports in 1831 was £91,561. ; and of the exports £74,B58. ; employing a shipping inwards of 48,765 tons, and outwards of 54,264 tons. When we observe that there are nearly two millions and a half of acres of land in these isles unoccupied, and admit that half are fit for the support of human life, I cannot see any reason, any justice, or state policy, in leaving thousands to starve at home when we should be offering every encouragement to the unemployed to accept of and till the waste colonial lands. Finance, &c. The revenue of the settlement is raised after the manner adopted in the other West India settle- ments. The gross Revenue and Expenditure in £ sterling, from 1821 to 1831, is stated in official documents to have been: — Years, REVENUE. EXPENDITURE. Colonial. Parliamentary Grant. Total. Civil. Military. Total. 1821 8,419 3,147 11,566 14,642 206 14,848 1822 16,297 3,343 19,(i40 17,316 223 17,539 1823 17,836 3,413 21,249 No return. 14,834 1824 10,699 3,413 14,112 — 16,686 1825 11,355 4,782 19,137 — 17,367 1826 13,1/5 3,!<97 17,172 — 18,329 1827 11,853 4,880 16,513 25,810 790 26,600 1828 15.210 3,252 18,462 17,395 31,279 48,674 1829 17,092 3,252 20,344 24,343 28,839 63,182 1830 14,691 3,252 17,943 19,266 28,831 48,117 1831 19,147 3,262 22,399 20,413 25,920 46,333 The number of free or public schools is seven, with 227 male, and 231 female scholars. There are 41 places of wor- ship, maintained at the expense of about £2,000 per annum. FORM OF GOVERNMENT CAPITAL, &C. BAHAMAS. 393 Government. As in the other West India possessions the Government of the Bahamas is modelled after that of England, viz. a House of Assembly, or Commons, consisting of between twenty and thirty members, returned from the several islands, a Council of twelve members, approved by the crown, and a Governor, who is Commander-in-chief of the militia, and has the power of summoning and dissolving the legislative body, and of putting a negative on its proceedings. The Electors are free white persons, of twenty-one years of age, who have resided twelve months within the Govern- ment, for six months of which they must have been house- holders, or freeholders, or in default of that have paid duties to the amount of £50. To become a representative the person must have 200 acres of cultivated land, or property to the value of £2,000 currency. There are several Courts at Law, such as the Supreme Court, which holds its sessions in terms of three weeks, with the powers of the common law at Westminster, and its practice modelled on that of the King's Bench, the Courts of Chancery, Error, Vice-Admiralty, &c. Nassau in New Providence, as before observed, is the seat of Government and the centre of commerce ; it possesses a fine harbour, nearly land locked, and on the S. side of which the capital extends over a rather steep acclivity to the summit of a ridge, the W. of which is crowned by a fortress of consi- derable strength, where the garrison is kept. The island is divided into parishes, each of which has its church, clergy, and school, liberally provided for. The streets are regularly laid out, the public buildings good ; and there is an air of liveliness and cleanliness which immediately attracts the eye of a stranger. In conclusion — I should be rejoiced to see Government granting the unoccupied lands in the Bahamas in fee simple, and in perpetuity to any responsible individual who might either settle thereon himself, or locate others who possess industry without the means to render it available, either for their own advantage or for the welfare of the state. 394 CHAPTER XIV. THE BERMUDAS, OR SOxMER ISLES. LOCALITY — HISTORY — PHYSICAL ASPECT — GEOLOGY — CLIMATE — POPULA- TION — PRODUCTIONS, GOVERNMENT, &C. Locality. The Bermudas, or Somer Isles, exceeding 300 in number, lie in the Atlantic Ocean, in lat. 32.20 N., long. 64.50 W. about 600 miles E. of South Carolina, the nearest point of North America, and containing about 14,000 acres of land. History. They were discovered in 1522 by J. Bermudez, a Spaniard, who found them uninhabited.* Sir George Somers was wrecked upon them in 1609, and made his way to Virginia in a vessel constructed of cedar, which did not contain an ounce of iron, excepting one bolt in the keel. They were settled shortly after from Virginia and England, but disputes for some time prevailed respecting the rights of the Virginia Company. They have ever since remained in the uninterrupted possession of England, and at one time at- tracted great attention from their salubrity and picturesque scenery. Physical Aspect, ^\^len viewed from a ship at sea, the Bermudas appear to have but a trifling elevation com- pared with the bold and lofty aspect of many of our West India Islands ; indeed the surface is very irregular, seldom presenting any lofty elevations, the highest land not exceed- ing 200 feet. The principal islands (St. George's, Ireland, St. David, Somerset, Paget, Longbird and Smith's) together with the minor islands, lie in such a manner as to form several bays, some of which are capacious and deep enough to afford harbour for the whole British navy, but difficult of ingress and egress ; St. Georges's, the main island, Somerset and Ireland, * May, an Englishman, is said to have been wrecked there at an earlier period, and with his companions built a vessel, in which he returned to England. PECULIAR PHYSICAL ASPECT OF THE BERMUDAS. 395 form a chain, with very httle interruption, for about thirty miles long, seldom exceeding in breadth two miles, (re- sembling a shepherd's crook) running nearly E. and W., St. George's being the E. and Somerset and Ireland the W. ; it appears, in fact, as if an extensive island had disappeared in some convulsion of nature, leaving above water only a long narrow ridge, without either mountains or vallies, rivers, forests or plains. Groves of cedars are here and there detached on little plateaus of rising ground ; and the nu- merous basins (some sixteen miles in circumference) formed by the islands give very much the appearance of lake scenery. The N. shore is defended by the heavy sea from any ap- proach to the island on that side (except through the chan- nel) and by innumerable sunken rocks, which form a shoal, with little interruption, for the whole length of the islands, and stretching in a N. E. direction for nearly ten miles, leave but a narrow and intricate passage for shipping, which is close to the shore, and defended by several strong batteries. The S. coast is bold, and guarded by sunken rocks in a manner similar to the north shore. The island of St. George, the military station of the colony, and formerly the seat of Government, is about 3 miles long, and at no part exceeding half a mile broad ; it lies at the entrance of the only passage for ships of burthen. The town of St. George is situate on the S. side of the E. extremity of the island, in a sort of amphitheatre, low built, and with narrow streets. Geology. A stone called " Bermuda rock," and peculiar to the place, forms, with few exceptions, the basis of the islands and minor rocks ; it is extremely porous — so much so as to be unfit for filtering stones ; at first sight it closely resembles loose sandstone, but on minute inspection will be found to consist of a congeries of comminuted shells ce- mented together, and occasionally including larger and tole- rably perfect portions of shells ; the layers of this stone are stratified, and the dip varies very much in the direction it * Vide introduction, for Plato's account of ' Atalantis.' 396 GEOLOGY AND CLIMATE OF THE BERMUDAS. takes and the angle it forms with the horizon ; the stone is easily wrought with axes and saws, is naturally friable, but becomes harder when exposed to the atmosphere, and changing from a whitish to a bluish grey colour ; it is used in the principal buildings — for when covered with cement or lime it is impervious to the rain or damp, and was therefore at one time an article of extensive export to the United States of America. The soil is of a reddish brown colour, and in some places, as at Ireland isle, bearing strong marks of oxyde of iron. Round the coast there are some districts with a strong tena- cious blue clay — in others a micaceous, kneadable brick earth ; and again, an argillaceous soil, with luxuriant pasturage. There is no other point in the geology worth noticing. Climate. The climate is favourable to European health, and may be said to be a perpetual summer. The meteoro- logical register for the year is — THERMOM. WINDS. REMARKS. - Max. Med. Min. January - 64 66 63 N.W. Cold, frequent rain. February - 60 63 59 N.E Ditto. March - - 62 63 61 N.W. by W. IVIore temperate, gentle breezes. April - - 76 1^ 75 S.E. Warm, and showers. May - - 78 80 11 S.S.E. Sultry, ditto, thunder. June - - 83 86 84 kS.W. Hot, light breezes. July - - August - - 11 79 11 E. Ditto, thunder storms. 11 79 79 S.E. Sultry, heavy showers. September - 11 79 78 S.W. by W. Hot, frequent ditto. October - 78 79 75 N.E. Stormy, heavy rains. November - 69 71 69 N.W. Cold, with heavy rain. December - 61 65 61 N.E. Ditto, thunder and lightning. Water is supplied to the inhabitants all the year round from tanks, in which it is collected during rain. Vegetation, &c. The cedar grows to a great height in many places, and would seem in several parts to spring from the bare rock ; it is used for ship-building ; the palmetto is much cultivated for the making of straw hats, but arrow-root VEGETABLE KINGDOM AND POPULATION. 397 seems to be the staple of the island, and machinery has re- cently been imported for its preparation ; coffee, cotton, indigo, tobacco, &;c. are grown as good as in the West India islands, as do also all the fine fruits and vegetables of the tropics. There are no wild animals, the feathered tribe is confined to a few varieties, but the sea around teems with fish, and the whale is pursued with great animation, and killed for the sake of his oil and bone. Population. The latest returns before me of the number of inhabitants are the census of 1822, 1828, and 1831. White and Free Coloured. Slaves. Total Males. Total Years. Males. Females. Males. Females. Females. 1822 1828 1831 2,209 1,872 2,135 3,161 2,771 5,193 2,620 1,825 1,825 2,622 2,002 2,090 4,899 3,697 3,960 5,783 4,773 6,282 At one of the late censuses there were in each parish, 1 < Whites. Free Blacks. Slaves. | Total. •a PARISH. 01 .2 "3 I V •3 B ■3 ■3 E fa ■3 i "3 fa u > 11 s St. George . . Hamilton Smiths Devonshire .. Pembroke .... Pagets Warwick .... Southampton Sandys 1,580 1,651 1,281 1,281 1,281 1,281 1,281 1,281 1,507 204 139 64 100 348 164 209 141 195 26- 194 130 198 491 263 311 198 289 90 31 7 17 68 24 25 18 28 110 45 7 42 103 33 31 25 34 220 164 106 113 310 221 158 183 350 210 188 120 124 336 245 198 256 325 514 324 177 230 726 409 392 342 573 687 427 257 364 930 541 540 470 648 1,525 1,620 1,265 1,246 1,226 1,216 1,256 1,200 1,408 Total.. 12,424 1,564 2,341 308 430 1,825 2,002 3,687 4,764 12,662 The parliamentary return whence the foregoing is derived, gives minute statistics for each parish, the aggregate of which is (for 1826), births, 299; marriages, 34; deaths, 219. Persons employed in agriculture, 689 ; manufactures, 71 ; commerce, 591. Number of scholars, males, 274 ; females, 233. Acres of land in onions, 50; arrow-root, 51 ; potatoes, 197; barley and oats, 57; garden vegetables, 106: — total 398 AGRICULTURAL PRODUCTS — GOVERNMENT FINANCES, &C. acres, 461 ; the produce of which was, onions, 328,830 lbs. at 6*. 8f/. per 100 lbs. ; arrow-root, 18,174 lbs. atl*. 8^/. per lb. ; potatoes, 10,404 bushels, at 4*. 4f/. per bushel ; barley, 435 bushels, at ditto ; garden vegetables, G5,8001bs. at \\d. per lb.; Number of horses, 2o0 ; horned cattle, 1,538; sheep, 228; and goats, 199. The colonial revenue is about £ 10,000 per annum,* of which £ 6,000 is derived from custom duties. The value of the trade inwards in 1831 was £79,953; out- wards, £27,428, and the shipping inward, tons, 15,500.f The colonists have their own Legislative Assembly and council; the men are distinguished for their industry, the women for their beauty, and both sexes are celebrated for their morals and hospitality. Although the Bermudas are not, properly speaking, West India settlement, they are, or I should now say have been, always included among the western slave colonies, I have, therefore, given this brief sketch of these singular isles of the Atlantic, the origin of which I am unable to account for, unless I consider them the remains of the vast continent Atalantis, which, tradition in- forms us, sunk beneath the ocean. * Bermudas Gross Revenue and Expenditure in pounds sterling :— REVENUE. Colonial. Parliamentary Grant. Total. EXPENDITTRE. 182S 1829 1830 1831 .0,789 10,.S97 13,902 9,484 4,000 4,000 4,000 4,000 13,789 14,397 17,802 13,484 27,813 15,834 15,452 1G,200 t la 1825 there was of sugar exported 406,347 lbs.; of nun, 1 13,636 gal. of molasses, 7,744 lbs. ; and of coffee, 9,400. This amount of staple W. I. produce has of late years diminished. 399 CHAPTER XV. HONDURAS. LOCALITY — EARLY HISTORY — PHYSICAL ASPECT — GEOLOGY — CLIMATE — RIVERS AND MOUNTAINS — NATURAL PRODUCTIONS — COMMERCE— GO- VERNMENT — FINANCES STATE OF SOCIETY, &C. &C. Locality. The British settlement of Honduras, in the Pro- vince of Yucutan, is situate in the southern part of the North American continent, between the parallels of 17 and 19 N. lat. and 88 to 90 W. long., on a peninsula extending from the W. side of the Bay of Honduras (that either gives or takes its name from the settlement) to the sea, northwardly forming the Bay of Campeachy on the W. and the Bay of Honduras* on the E. side of the peninsular, the coast here extending about 270 miles — but the inland boundaries are ill-defined. According to Henderson, the line which includes the set- tlement commences at the mouth of the Rio-Grande, or Hondo, whose course it follows and afterwards runs parallel with for thirty miles — then, turning S., passes through the New River Lake, in a straight line, to the river Balize, up which it ascends for a considerable distance — and then asfain proceeds S. till it reaches the head of the Sibun, whose windings it pursues to the sea-coast j- — the whole settlement embracing an area of 62,750 square miles. History. The Honduras coast was discovered by Co- lumbus in 1502 — its period of early settlement is very vague. At first it was occasionally resorted to by mahogany and * The Spanish term Hondura, signifying- depth, was thus given to the coast by its discoverers from the great depth of water along the shore. f The Mosquito shore — the Indians of which are in alliance with, and, in some respects, subject to, the Crown of Great Britain — extends from Cape Gracios a Dios, southerly, to Punta Gorda and St. Juan's river; N. W. and Westerly, to Remain river ; and S. E. beyond Boco del Toro to Coclee or Coli, near the river Chagre and Porto Bello. 400 EARLY HISTORY OF THE HONDURAS. Other wood-cutters, whose chief place of residence was then a small island called St. George's Key, about nine miles to the N. E. of the town of Balize, the present capital of the settlement. The first regular establishment of British log- wood cutters was made at Cape Cartoche by some Jamaica adventurers, whose numbers increased so that, in a short time, they occupied as far S. as the river Balize, in the Bay of Honduras, and as far W. as the island of Triste and the Laguna de los Terminos, adjacent to Campeachy. The ter- ritorial jealousy of the Spaniards was soon roused, and the Governor of Campeachy fitted out several expeditions against the logwood-cutters, in which he not only failed but, on two occasions, in 1659, and 1678, the cutters actually took pos- session of the town of Campeachy, without a single cannon, and aided only by the seamen engaged in the trade. By a treaty concluded with Spain in 1670, by by Sir W. Godolphin, the seventh article generally, though not spe- cifically, embraced the territorial right of British occupancy at Honduras — and in consequence the English population fast augmented, the number of whites (no negroes were introduced) being then 1700. The jealousy of the Spanish monarch at the success of the English led to a renewed dis- cussion of the territorial right of our settlers, which the imbecile ministers of the pusillanimous Charles II. so far admitted as to direct the Governor of Jamaica (Sir Thomas Lynch,) in 1671, to inquire into the same, and had it not been for the spirited and patriotic conduct of Sir Thomas Lynch, the conduct of Spain would have been sanctioned by the court of St. James'. The Spaniards at all events deter- mined to drive the woodmen from the Campeachy shore, and, by 1680, they succeeded in confining the English to the limits now occupied. From this period the establishments on the other side of Cape Cartoche were entirely abandoned by the settlers. In 1718 the Spaniards sent a large force to try to dispossess the English from the Belize river, as they had done from the opposite coast, but the bold front of the log wood cutters de- Spaniards' jealousy of the settlement. 401 terred the Castilians, -svho contented themselves with erecting a fortification in the N. W. branch, of which they held pos- session for a few years, and finally abandoned it. The log- wood cutters were left for thirty-six years in peace, until the attack on Truxillo by the English in 1742, which led to the long projected expedition of 1754, to exterminate the latter from Honduras. By the treaty of peace in 1763, the Spaniards were compelled to give a formal permission of occupancy to the British colonists, though they subsequently endeavoured to annul it. The Spaniards made another attack on the settlements in 1779, destroyed a great deal of property, and marchcvd off many of the English settlers of both sexes, blindfolded and in irons to Merida, the capital of Yucutan, and thence shipped them to the Havannah, where they were kept in cap- tivity until 1782; but, in 1784, a commission from the crown of Spain was authorized ' to make a formal delivery to the British nation of the lands allotted for the cutting of logwood,' &c. It is necessary to state this explicitly, because many persons are not only ignorant whether Honduras is an island, or part of the continent, but very many, who are aware of the position of the settlements, think the British have merely a right to logwood and mahogany cutting in the Bay of Hon- duras, and that it is not a territorial occupancy of the British crown, which, in fact it is, as much as Jamaica or any other settlement. The last Spanish attack on the settlements was during the war in 1798, and consisted of an expedition of 3,000 men, under the command of Field Marshal O'Neil, who was gallantly repvdsed by the ' Bay Men,' (as the Honduras settlers are termed), for which they received the thanks of His Majesty.* Physical Aspect. The sea coast of our territory at the Bay of Honduras! is low, and the shore studded with low * This act of conquest is a perfectly good title of occupancy. t The bay reaches from Cape Catoche, in 21.31, the N. point of the peninsula of Yucutan, to Cape Honduras, in 16 S. Lat. and 86 W. Long. From thence the coast, comprehending Cape Gracias a Dios, and extend- ing between 500 tind 600 miles to the mouth of the Rio de San Juan as it VOL. II. D D 402 APPEARANCE OF THE TOWN OF BALIZE. and verdant isles (keys) ; from the land the coast gradually rises into a bold and lofty country, interspei'sed with rivers and lagoons, and covered with the noblest forests. The town of Balize,* the capital of the Honduras settle- ment, is divided into two parts by the river Balize, wliicli empties itself by two mouths in a tortuous manner into the sea, at the western side of the Honduras Bay, where, as before observed, the shore is extremely flat, with numerous keys or small islands, dispersed along the coast, and densely covered with trees or shrubs, so exactly resembhng each other as to puzzle the most experienced sailor, and rendering navigation exceedingly difficult.f That part of Bahze which flows from the Nicaragua lake, is known by the name of the Moscjuito shore ; within these limits lie the settlements which have been considered the dependencies of Jamaica * Called by the Spaniards, ralize ; corrupted from the original, Wallis, the noted English buccaneer. f For the same reason given under the Trinidad chapter, I append, from the Honduras Almanac, the following directions for making the coast of Honduras and the harbour of Balize ; together with a description of the bay light-house. The Island of Bonacca should be made early in the day, so that you may run down to the middle or west end of Ruatan by the evening, and from thence take your departure for the Southern Four Keyx, at 6, 7, or 8 o'clock, according to the breeze. If you take your departure from the middle of Riiafan steer W. N. W. | W. making that coarse good. To avoid (iloi-er's Reef keep to leeward, and on no account whatever run more than 45 miles from Ruatan before day- light ; if you run more than that distance you are in danger of running your vessel on the Reef. At day light, if you do not see the Kcy.i, make sail, and you will soon lift them. The principal Key is called Half Moon Key. On the Key there is a light-house, elevated about 50 feet from the surface of the sea; its lat. is 17.12 N. and long. 87.28 W. A fixed light is exhibited from sun-set to sun rise each night. It was lit on the 1st December, I82I. This highly useful building is situated on the eastern point of the island, and resembles a pyramid. The whole is neaUy shingled and painted white. These keys ought to be made as eaily in the day as possible, in order to ensure an anchorage in harboiu- before night. It frequently happens that vessels, after leaving Ruatan, are becalmed during the night, and, in consequence, they will not make Half Moaa Key before the afternoon. In this case it is advisable to brace sharp upon a wind, and bc-tt to windward all night, tacking every two hours ; for it must be noticed that the current sets strongly dovm on the Southern Four Keys Reef, and several vessels have been lost on this Reef owing to their laying-to ; and by keeping the light in sight till morning it will be suf- ficient to prevent accident by maintaining your position till you get a pilot, or till yon have the day before you. Should it happen that pilots cannot be had, all possible sail must be made, keeping a watch at the mast-head, and you will soon discern Hat K'^y, with only low trees upon it. After rounding the elbow of the Reef, steer W.. and you will very soon lift the island of Itirneff. At the south end of tliis island is Key Bokel, with si^veral cocoa-nut trees upon it, and where pilots formerly resided. You may round this key by your lead, and if it be later than three o'clock, p. .m. you must anchor there for the night. The anchorage SAILING DIRECTIONS FOR HONDURAS COAST. 403 is situate on theS. or right bank of the river, along the eastern edge of a point of hind is completely insulated by a canal, is about one mile and a half fronn the Key, that is, brin^ the Key to bear about E. by S. ; b\it your lead and your eye is the best jiUst for this anchorage . You anchor on a fine white sand - bank. The first sounding you will get is about ten fathoms; run in three or four fathoms, clewing' up your sails as fast as possible, and giving the vessel at least 40 fathoms of cable, for the sand is so very hard, that with a short scope you will certainly drift off the bank, and then you have no bottom. If this should be the case, you must heave up immediately, and make sail again to get on the bank. In the morning get under weigh at day -light, and steer N. W. by N. for Rnglixh Key, distance 14 miles, English Key is situated on the south side of the channel ; it is low, round, and sandy, with a few thatched houses and two shingled ones on it, and entirely shaded with trees. Here also stands a, signal-house and flag-staff, Hpon which you will perceive the British ensign flying, which is always hoisted when a vessel heaves in sight ; but should any signal or other device be hoisted at such flagstaff you will take no notice of the same ; it is intended as a communication to the town of Belize. On the oppo-ite side of the channel, that is, on the N. side, there is another small key of the same size, called Guff's Key, about half a mile to the eastward of which is a little sand patch, nearly even with the water, called by the pilots the Sand Bore. This is the place you must anchor at, for it is impossible for a stranger to proceed any further without a pilot, as the channel becomes so very intricate, and the various keys have such a similarity in their appearance, that a description of them would be useless to the commander of a vessel. When you have made out English and Goffs Keys, run for them, but mind and keep nearer to Goff's than English as there is a dangerous reef off the latter. The pilots' mark for anchorage here, is to bring three little keys, situated to the northward of Goff^s Key, called Curlew, Sergeant's, and Panchut Kets, a little open to the eastward of Goff's Key. There are no trees on Curlew but bush, such as bay, cedar, and lillywood grass. Ser- geant's Key has a rugged appearance, and is easily distinguished by its several cocoa-nut trees, on which there are two shingled houses ; and Panchgut Key is small and round, with two trees in the centre. From this anchorage your ship can be seen from the Goveriiment House of Balixe, and in a few hours it is possible to have a pilot from the town. The Light House of Honduras, situate on Half Moon Key, or Isle, is about 43 miles E. by S. southerly from Belize. Like all the islands with which the Bay of Honduras is studded, its appearance at a distance is flat, but, on a nearer approach, it is found to be more elevated than the keys in the neighbourhood. On this Bay stands the lighthouse. In 1821 this highly useful building was erected on the north east point, the most elevated on the island, which is a rocky promontory, nearly 30 feet above the low water mark ; and from its base, which is 22 feet square to the lanthorn, it rises about 50 feet. It is in lat. 17.12 N. and long. 87.28 W. It is built in a pyramidal form to within nine or ten feet of the top. Tliere is a fixed reflected light from sun-set to sun-rise, for which the public of Honduras allow the contractor the sum of ^6'400 currency per annum. By day the light- house, being painted white, serves as an excellent beacon. In days of yore this delightful spot was much resorted to, and at several periods was the residence of the buccaneers when they infested these seas.* This key is now the chief residence of the branch pilots. They are a set of men remark- able for their abstemious liabits, activity, and humanity on all occasions ; and there hardly can be remembered an instance of their deviation from duty. * There are many traditions of treasures having been buried here by them when closely pursiied by the Spaniards, which have induced some individuals to search in the hope of a discovery ; but as yet every trial has proved unsuccessful, notwithstanding a superstition which accredits the nocturnal visit of a spectre, who, though in guise of a mutilated mortal, yet, in an unearthly horridn«ss, appears to guard them at the ho\ir described by Burns, as ' Of night's black arch the keystane.' It is to be feared that every attempt to recover the supposed wealth wiU be, as hereto- fore, unavailing. 404 PLEASING APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. on its western side which runs across from a small arm of the sea and bounds the town on its S. side. The number of houses are nearly 500, many of them con- venient, well built, spacious, and even elegant ; they are chiefly constructed of wood, and raised 10 feet from the ground. The streets are regular, running parallel N. and S. and intersected by others, the main one running in a N. E. direction (to a bridge crossing the river and facing the chief quays and wharfs)* from the government house, which is situate on the S. E. point or angle of the island, on the right bank of the river, and bounded on the S. and E. by the sea. The church is situated behind the government house on the E. side of the main street, and the whole town is shaded by groves and avenues of the cocoa-nut and tamarind trees. To the N. of Balize is an extensive morass, three miles in cir- cumference, now being drained. Fort George is situate about half a mile from the river on a small islet ; it is low, 600 feet long and 200 broad, principally formed of the ballast from the shipping, every vessel being obHged to deposit a portion of ballast proportioned to its tonnage. The aspect of the interior is worthy of notice. The falls in different parts of the river are extremely grand, and the scenery along the banks really sublime ; as a specimen the river and lagoon of Manatee, situated ten leagues S. of Balize may be selected. At about a mile from the mouth of the river, is a magnificent * The bridge which connects the northern to the southern town was built in 1818 ; its span is 220 feet, the width 20. It is constructed entirely of timber, and rests on coppered piles of wood, which are found in abundance in this country, remarkable for their durability ; indeed, the slowness with which they yield to decomposition, may almost entitle them to the appellative imperishable. Government gave .i£?l,000 sterling towards the expence of erecting it. Tlie entire is well compacted, and secured by balustrades on either side. The appearance of this building from the Balize roads is very pleasing ; the thick forests of evergreen, with which the banks of the river are dotted, form a rich back scene, and the many objects of various characters representing commerce and re- creation, dispersed on either side, form a picture of no inconsiderable interest. MAGNIFICENT AND CURIOUS SCENERY AT HONDURAS. 405 sheet of water, usually denominated the Lagoon, which ex- tends in a northerly direction for several leagues. The sur- rounding scenery is very romantic, embracing immense moun- tains, which descend in many places to its margin, and inter- sected by vallies opening into woody ranges of vast extent, possessed almost solely by wild herds of various animals, such as the tiger, antelope, armadillo, quash, opossiun, racoon, and several species of deer ; among the last named, the velvet deer is much esteemed for its soft and delicate flavour. The sportsman also finds ample amusement among the feathered tribe, as quails, plover, pigeons, pheasants, and wild turkeys, are abundant in these regions of silence. Among these vast ridges, where no stream flows to cool the parched earth, na- ture, ever bountiful to all her creatures, has placed large marshy spots, or shallow ponds, the banks of which are fre- quented by the wild duck and almost every species of aquatic bird. These ponds contain vast quantities of fish during the greatest part of the year ; but at the season of drought their situation may be easily discovered by the traveller at a great distance, from the quantity of sea-fowl which hover over them to prey upon the putrid fish that have been destroyed by the evaporation of the waters. At this season the alligator* also travels to these marshes to partake of the fish thus yearly provided. It is very singular that many of those ponds, scat- tered through the flat country, which have no apparent com- munication with each other, should annually abound with the same species of fish. The lake, or lagoon of Manatee, is supplied in the wet season by innumerable rivulets ; but, during the dry months, by three streams only, viz. Corn * This extraordinary animal leaves his usual residence, and goes inland to partake of the lish yearly provided as above detailed. He wanders these trackless wilds, from one pond to another, in search of fish, and not unfrequently has been seen many miles in the interior. Notwith- standing the strength of this terrific animal, such is the awe of man with which the most powerful creatures are filled, that he seems timid, from the extreme caution with which he pursues his course, and, by the motionless posture in which he lies, he shows his desire to remain unnoticed if he hears the least noise. ■i06 THE BALIZE AND USUMASINTA RIVERS. Creek, Plantation Creek, and the Main River, which empty themselves into it. Although they are called creeks, they extend so far into the interior that their sources are unknown to the British settlers. The banks of the river are pictu- resque, and divested of that sameness which marks most of the rivers on this coast.* Eight to ten miles from the lakes the rapids begin, and the high rocky banks of the river wear a delightful appearance — ■ a little further on (it is thus vaguely stated by the Honduras almanack,) there is an extensive cataract about a quarter of a mile in length, and of considerable acclivity.f A cluster of beautiful caves, through which the river winds its way, and beneath which the traveller must pass, is next arrived at. These magnificent natural excavations of the mountains are semicircular at the entrance, and about five yards in dia- * About a mile from the lake is an establishment of disbanded soldiers, from the black regiments, that were broken up on the late peace. Tliey have cleared a considerable spot of ground, and constitute the only regular settlement that could be formed by these Africans. t Colonel Galindo has furnished an interesting paper to the Royal Geographical Society on the Usumnsinta, which takes its rise not far from the source of the Balize. on the opposite side of the chain of mountains that bounds the Honduras territory. He describes it as remarkable among the rivers of this part of Ameiica, not only for the length of its course, the advantages of its navigation, the fertility of its banks, and the superiority of the climate of the district through which it flows, but also for the almost total ignorance in which even the inhabitants of the sur- rounding country remain with respect to its relative position, its course and branches. Part of the rich but wild territory of the IMayas is watered by the Usumasinta, which, in its course from E. to W. receives the im- portant navigable river of Chicsoi ; after which its course to the sea inclines to the N. W., its principal mouth being the port of Fictorio, in the (nilf of Mexico, to the W. of the lake of Laguna de Terminos. The river Tal)asco, which, near the sea, joins the Usumasinta, is much fre- (juented by vessels from the United States of North America, which sail up to San Juan Bautista, the capital of the state of T ebasco. The banks of the Usumasinta, after passing the chain of mountains which separates the Maya territories from the Mexican states, are studded with villages of logwood cHttcrs. The ruins of l*alen(|ue, an ancient and magnificent city in the Mava countrv, well deserve further investigation. IMMENSE CHAIN OF HONDURAS MOUNTAINS. 407 meter. Within the cave the arch rises to the height of 100 feet, and leads to another low arch, which, being passed, a second cavern of large size opens, beyond which is a third, with a circular orifice through which the river enters. During the floods the mouths of the caverns are filled with water, Avhich boils up with prodigious fury, and thus de- tains travellers many days before they can pass through the caves or tunnels. In the rainy season, as the water increases on the upper, or inland sides of the mountains, the river forces its passage through the interstices and openings in its sides with tremendous noise, forming an indescribably grand cascade of from forty to fifty feet high issuing from an hundred orifices.* The immense chain of mountains which form the inland frontier of the British territory, has only one pass — that leading to Peten, which is merely a pathway through rocky dells, and might be defended by a few men. The mountains are covered with impenetrable forests and brushwood, and contain abundance of the finest mahogany. The face of the country is technically divided into the Pine and Cahoun ridges from the respective locations of these trees ; the pine trees extend over immense tracts of country, presenting to the eye the resemblance of an interminable open park, clothed with verdure, and exhibiting an appearance of taste and design, rather than accident. The Cahoun ridge is covered with gigantic trees, such as the wild cotton, and other vast trees, and the fertility of the soil occasions much brushwood. Geology. The first geological feature requisite for the knowledge of man, is the ca])ability of the soil to grow food. In this respect Honduras is not behind hand in fertility to any spot in the Old or New World. The soil of the Cahoun ridge consists of a deep loam produced by decomposed ve- getable matter, and capable of growing every European, as * There are also magnificent caves in the river Lihun, eight or ten days' journey from Balize, and &ome interesting creeks or caverns exist in the creeks or arms of tiie old river. 408 GEOLOGICAL FEATURES MINERALS CLIMATE well as tropical aliment. The Pine ridge land has a sub- stratum of loose reddish sand, and its indigenous products exhibit those varieties of the vegetable kingdom, whose assi- milative powers are strong and perennial. Extensive natural prairies, or pastures spread over this soil. An inexhaustibly rich alluvial soil exists on the margin of the numerous creeks and rivers wliich stud the country. Veins of hne marble, and mountains of alabaster, are known to exist ; valuable chrystals have been found within 180 miles of Balize ; and fine pieces of transparent feltspar lie along the banks in many places, which are used in ornamental stucco work. Gold has at various periods been found in the Roaring Creek, (a branch of the Balize river,) but no trouble has been taken to ascertain from whence it proceeded. Quanti- ties of lava and volcanic substances have been found in different situations. Labouring Creek, about 100 miles inland, on the Balize, is remarkable for the petrifying proporties which it possesses ; its waters have a powerful cathartic effect on strangers, and a healing property when applied externally to an ulcer. Climate. The climate about Balize is generally moist; in July, the dryest and hottest month of the year, the average maximum heat is 83 F. the medium 82, and the minimum 80, but though the absolute heat appears so great during the hot months, yet it is so tempered by the sea breezes, which almost constantly prevail from the N. E., S. E. or E. that the air feels pleasant and often cool, but, on the wind shifting to the N. or W., the atmosphere becomes sultry and often op- pressive.* During the wet seasons, which lasts five months, the mercury sinks to 60. The variation in the temperature is very great, sometimes 15 between G a, m. and 2 p. m. and at night 20 or 25 less than in the day. * Although I have given in every possible instance a thermometrical register for each British Colony, I wish the observations which I made in the 1st volume, under the * Climate of Bengal,' to be borne in mind. AND POPULATION, &C. OF HONDURAS. Thermoraetrical Register at Balize, Honduras :— 409 THERMOM. WINDS. REMARKS. Max. Med. Min. January - 77 75 72 W. N. and N.W. Generally dry, fine weather, some rain. February - 78 78 75 W. E. and N.E. Ditto, with pleasant breezes and showers. March - - 79 78 74 E. N.E. and VV. Ditto, ditto. April - - 82 80 78 E. and N E. Ditto, sea breeze regular. May , - 83 81 79 E. N.E. and VV. At times dry, then heavy showers, lightning and thunder. June - - 84 82 80 E.N.N.E.andS.E. Air moist, cloudy, heavy rain. July - - 83 82 80 E. N.E. and S.E. Ditto, thunder and light- ning. August 83 82 79 E, N.E. and W. Ditto, ditto. September 83 82 79 E. W. and N.E. Fine occasionally. October - 83 81 78 E. N E. and W. Fine, with some heavy show- November 80 79 74 E. N E. and W. ers. Dry and pleasant. December 78 75 71 N. N.E. and W. Ditto, ditto, slight showers. It is asserted* by those who know the chmate best that Honduras is more favourable to European constitutions than any other chmate under the tropics ; those who have not trifled with it by intemperance and irregularities enjoy the best health, as demonstrated by the many instances of lon- gevity, European and native, that exist. f Population. According to a census in 1823 the popula- tion was, whites, 217; slaves, 2,468; free people of colour, 809; free blacks, 613; pensioners from discharged West India regiment, 819; detachment of second West India regi- ment, 231; ditto of Royal Artillery, 22; total, 5,179. The proportions of males and females adults and children, were — - * By the Honduras Almanac. f Every inducement ought to be held out I)y Government for settlers to locate themselves on the waste lands of the Honduras territory, where about 60,000 square miles lie untilled. 410 CLASSIFICATION OF THE POPULATION. Male Female Male Female AUulls. Adults. Children. CliiUlieii. Total. Whites - - - - 13fi 51 20 10 217 O)loured _ _ - 192 243 183 191 809 Free Black _ . - 217 222 93 81 (J 13 Slaves - - - - 1^40 628 214 18fi 24fi8 Pensioners _ - - (i50 54 50 65 819 2(1 West India Retciinent - 200 14 10 7 231 Royal Artillery 10 4 4 4 22 In 1826 there were, whites — 267 males; 65 females. Co- loured and free — 1,629 males; 826 females. Slaves — 1,606 males ; 3,502 females. Grand total— 3,502 males ; 4,393 fe- males. King's troops — 379 men ; females, 30 ; children, 47. The aggregate Population of Honduras from 1823 to 1830 was — * White and Free Col oured. Slaves. Total. Years. Males. Females. Males. Females. Males. Females. 1S23 842 798 1(554 814 2496 1612 1S26 lS:,'(i 891 HiOfi 804 3502 1695 182;) 15!KJ 920 1329 798 2925 1718 1830 937 919 1347 (580 2284 1599 Various classes of society at Honduras.-j- The blacks of Honduras are not derived from tlie aborigines of the country, but have been in their own persons or those of their forefathers imported from Africa, eitlier direct or tlirough the * I have here given three different rcfurn.s of thepo|mlation, all derived from different sources ; tlie discrepancy shews the necessity of causina^ more attention to the statistics of our colonies. f I am indebted to the Honduras Almanac for this statement, and I cannot help regretting that the latter numhers of this admirable jjeriodical arc so deficient owing to tiie withdrawal of the gruit of the mainstrates ; -no moi.ev can Ite better laid out by the colonial legislatures than in improving thoii respective almanacs. VARIOUS GRADES OV SOCIETY AT HONDURAS. 411 West India Islands. Though there are many free blacks, yet for the most part they are either the children of slaves, or have been slaves themselves ; and few of them are to be found entirely exempt from those low propensities which are exhibited in a state of barbarism. Some few, how- ever, display some striking features of consistent character. There are some who possess an utter aversion to spiri- tuous liquors, and can by no means be prevailed upon to taste a beverage in which they know any thing of the sort to be a component part ; but by far the greater proportion are so strongly addicted to the use of liquors that it is very common to see them exposed to the scorching sun, or the midnight dew in utter insensibility. Some have been ac- customed from infancy to indulge in this vice ; whilst others in rejecting it, act not so much from a correct principle as from national usage, or original intercourse with Mahometan connexions. As they have come to this and other neigh- bouring regions from various places, so they maintain the custom of the countries whence they come ; and hence their habits in a great measure continue. In order to preserve themselves distinct, and to uphold their customs,* each nation selects one from their body, to whom they give the title of * The African nesiroes of Honduras, as is the custom in Jamaica and the other islands, hold, at Christmas, a saturnalia, which continues with- out interruption for the space of a fortnight. During this time, there is an entire relaxation from all their toils ; negroes of all conditions join in sets, and pei'ambulate the streets from morn till night, with colours flying and music playing, to which they l. — iNin-f'vai — «««« — o« — c< — — — o C > g — ■Niraio^u;^-. frm— « l^-o rl X ■- n •» ■♦ ®. ^.''^^. ^ ~ 1 '^.'^. ^ '^ "^": '^ ". 1 °^ f? 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X Ol © — "N « xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx X X C s o S *w en b o CS M to C3 o C C ^ es cT o C4-> o O tn >, SS ■ O X X =^2 S W io eo GO O CiCft ►^ to _ ^ — C 00 00 a o > jj X a» .2 Is 2 ass- o e« n S ri fM p. CIO 3 ".J o i= ■ ^ X X o c; CO 11 .s . X 0» t^ o?if be s o w ^ J3 bn s X QD r> e*-i u: ^ »rt a TJ ?<=;t SJ o «j OlOC c fi ^ s .£: .S & J; ^ s bn i- 1« to u rS C br. ^ G *2 t) ' c Li 425 CHAPTER XVI. GENERAL WEST INDIA COMMERCE; PKIXCIPALLY IN REFERENCE TO SUGAR, COFFEE, COCOA, RUM, MOLASSES, &c. IMPOLICY OF ENORMOUS TAXATION IN ENGLAND ON WEST INDIA PRO- DUCE — NECESSITY OF GIVING RELIEF TO THE PLANTERS BY PER- MITTING THEM TO CARRY ON A DIRECT TRADE WITH FOREIGN COUN- TRIES, AND ADVANTAGES TO ALL PARTIES OF FREEING OUR COLONIAL COMMERCE FROM LEGISLATIVE RESTRICTIONS AND FISCAL IMPOSI- TIONS. Of the importance of the West India Colonies to Great Britain, I trust it is not necessary to speak ; they are in fact tropical gardens for the growth of various articles which our temperate clime will not produce;* rendered more valuable by their contiguity to England, and by their geographical position as regards the vast and improving continent of Ame- rica, and its numerous rising and prosperous republics.f I do not advert to the lands in the W. I. islands being owned by Englishmen, because the same occurs with most of our other colonies. Nor do I desire to lay much stress on the calcula- tion of the balance of trade in favour of England,]: or of * Quantities of principal articles imported into the United Kingdom in 1830, from the British West India Islands. Cloves, 10,000 lbs. ; cochineal, 11 1,000 lbs.; cocoa-nuts, 711,923 lbs. ; coffee, 27,460,421 lbs. ; dye and hard woods, 2,000 tons ; logwood, 10,000 tons ; mahogany, 12,000 tons ; ginger, 6,000 cwts. ; molasses, 250,000 cwts. ; castor oil, 1 0,000 lbs. ; pepper, 20,000 lbs.; pimento, 3,500,000 lbs.; sarsaparilla, 50,000 lbs ; rum, 6,500,000 gall. ; sugar, 4,000,000 cwt. ; tobacco manufactured, 3,000 lbs. ; cotton wool, 4,000,000 lbs. f At present even a large proportion of the manufactures (^^700,000 worth) shipped from England for Jamaica, are re-exported from the latter place to the Spanish Main. X Since the establishment of the British West India colonies the exports 426 NECESSITY OF DOING JUSTICE TO THE WEST INDIES. capital or wealth, drawn from the W. Indies to the mother country, because that also has a general reference to all colonies, and, if carried to excess, is injurious to the latter, and therefore ultimately detrimental to the former. But I claim for the W. Indies, (or British plantations as they are sometimes termed,) that, in common with all our colonies, commercial justice may be accorded them ; it may have suited the temper and taste of byegone times to have established particular monopolies, and split the nation into sections ; such measures will no longer answer — we must cease legislating for party interests — we must look to general not individual weal as the best means of promoting human happiness. Re- serving, however, an exposition of sound colonial policy for my last volume, I proceed with my historical details, and first with reference to the trade in — SUGAR. That a nutritive so delightful as sugar should have long remained unknown in its concrete form to our ancestors, is another proof of the comparative modern date of civilization in Europe — I say of Kurope — because the process of extract- ing and crystallizing the juice of the cane has been practised from time immemorial in the East, particularly in China, where, however, dormant or stationary, the human mind may now be, it is certain that at one period it had all the inventive faculties in full play. According to chemical analysis sugar is a vegetable oxyde, composed of oxygen, carbon, and hydro- gen; 100 parts containing (according to Ure) of oxygen, 50.33; carbon, 43.38 ; hydrogen, 6.29. It may however be described as comprising, in the most concentrated vegetable form, the principle or nutriment of life, azote, a fact which admits of natural demonstration, for not only do the inhabitants from them to Great Britain amounted to ^430,000,000. sterling ; and the value of merchandize exported from Great Britain to the West Indies, ^230,000,000 :— balance in favour of Great Britain, ^'200,000,000:— annual value of imports from West Indies, J:'8,000,000 : ditto of exports to i?4,000,000 :— expended anuallt/ in England, ^'4,000,000. IMPORTANCE AND USEFULNESS OF SUGAR — AS FOOD, &:c. 427 of every part of the globe delight in sugar, when obtain able, but all animated beings; the beasts of the field — the fowls of the air, insects, reptiles, and even fish have an exquisite enjoyment in the consumption of sweets, and a distaste to the contrary ; in fact sugar is the alimentary ingredient of every vegetable substance encumbered with a greater or less proportion of bulky innutritions matter. A small quantity of sugar will sustain life, and enable the animal frame to undergo corporeal (I may add mental, from personal experience,) fatigue better than any other substance ; often have I travelled with the Arab over the burning desert, or with the wild Afric through his ro- mantic country, and when wearied with fatigue and a noontide sun, we have sat ourselves beneath an umbrageous canopy, and I have shared with my companion his travelling pro- vender, a few small balls of sugar mixed with spices, and hardened into a paste with flour. Invariably have I found two or three of these balls, and a draught of water, the best possible restorative and even a stimulus to renewed exertion. During crop time in the West Indies the negroes, although then hard worked, become fat, healthy and cheerful, and the horses, mules, cattle, &c. on the estate partaking of the refuse of the sugar-house, renew their plumpness and strength. In Cochin-China, not only are the horses, buffaloes, elephants, &c. all fattened with sugar, but the body guard of the King are allowed a sum of money daily with which they must buy sugar-canes, and eat a certain quantity thereof in order to preserve their good looks and embonpoint ; there are about 500 of these household troops, and their handsome appear- ance does honour to their food and to their royal master. Indeed, in Cochin-China, rice and sugar is the ordinary breakfast of people of all ages and stations ; and the people not only preserve all their fruits in sugar, but even the greater part of their leguminous vegetables, gourds, cucumbers, ra- dishes, artichokes, the grain of the lotus, and the thick fleshy leaves of the aloes. I have eaten in India, after a six 428 SUGAR, A HEALTH RESTORING NUTRIMENT. months' voyage, mutton killed in Leadenhall market, pre- served in a cask of sugar, and as fresh as the day it was placed on the shamhles. [In the curing of meat I believe a portion of sugar is mixed with salt and saltpetre.} The Kan- dyans of Ceylon preserve their venison in earthern pots of honey, and after being thvis kept two or three years its fla- vour would delight Epicurus himself. In tropical climes the fresh juice of the cane is the most efiicient remedy for various diseases, while its healing virtues are felt when applied to ulcers and sores. Sir John Pringle says, the plague was never known to visit any country where sugar composes a material part of the diet of the inhabitants. Drs. Rush, Cullen, and other eminent physicians are of opinion that the frequency of malignant fevers of all kinds is lessened by the use of sugar ; in disorders of the breast it forms an excellent demulcient, as also in weaknesses and acrid defluxions in other parts of the body. The celebrated Dr. Franklin found great relief from the sickening pain of the stone by drinking half-a-pint of syrup of coarse brown sugar before bed-time, which he declared gave as much, if not more relief, than a dose of opium. That dreadful malady, once so prevalent on shipboard, scurvy — has been completely and instantaneously stopped by putting the afflicted on a sugar diet. The diseases arising from worms, to which children are subject, are prevented by the use of sugar, the love of which seems implanted by nature in them ; as to the unfounded assertion of its injuring the teeth, let those who make it visit the sugar plantations and look at the negroes and their children, whose teeth are daily employed in the mastication of sugar, and they will be convinced of the ab- surdity of the statement. I might add many other facts relative to this delightful nutriment. I conclude, however, with observing, that I have tamed the most savage and vicious horses with sugar, and have seen the most ferocious animals domesticated by means of feeding them with an article which our baneful fiscal restrictions and erroneous PROGRESSIVE TAXATION ON SUGAR IN ENGLAND. 429 commercial policy has checked the use of in England, where millions pine, sicken, and perish for want of nutriment.* The extended consumption of sugar in England began with its cultivation in the British W. I. islands. In 1466 its use was confined to medicines and feasts, and was thus con- tinued until 1580, when sugar was exported from Brazil to Portugal, and thence to this country. In 1641 sugar canes were transplanted from Brazil to Barbadoes, and thence to our other Western possessions; and, in 1643, the English settlers in St. Christopher's made very good sugar, vn example which was soon followed in the other islands. Th6 moment, however, that its consumption extended in England that moment the Government stepped in with the tax-ga- therer to mar the efforts of human industry, and to check human happiness. The progressive increasing rate of taxation was as follows:— In 1661 at Is. 6d. per cwt., in 1669 at 3s., in 1703 at 3*. M., in 1747 at 4*. lOc/., in 1759 at 6s. 4f/., in 1779 at 6s. 8d., in 1781 at 11*. 8d., in 1782 at 12*. 3d., in 1787 at 12*. 4d., and in 1791 at 15*. The natural result of this impolitic taxation was to check consvimption ; in 1787 but 77,355 tons of sugar were retained for home use, while ten years previously the consumption had been 81,000 tons ; — in 1790 the consumption decreased to 76,811 tons; in 1791 it fell to 70,160 tons, in 1792 to 68,000 tons. The financier of the day, however, would not take warning, and in 1797 the duty on British plantation was raised to 17*. 6^/. per cwt., and 5s. 2d. per cwt, was levied on East-India sugar, in addition to a previous ad valorem duty of i.*37. 16*. 3d. per cent. : the result was a further reduction of consumption, which in 1797 * It is impossible (says Mr. M'Queen, of GIas<>-o\v, in his lucid evidence before Parliament, 8th February 1832), for English vea\ers earning onlv from 3s. 6d. to 5,?. a week (o consume siigur or any thing else. For the fullest confirmation on this point, and evidence of the deterioration which revenue and commerce experience from the impoverishment of the woi-king classes, see a very important brochure by John Maxwell, Esq. Jun. the Member for Lanarkshire, whose eflforts have been so strenuously, so ably, and so disinterestedly devoted to ameliorating the miseries of his fellow creatures, particularly those of the meritorious hand-loom weavers. 430 TAXATION ON WEST AND EAST INDIA SUGAR, AND ?imounted to only 63,000 tons, being a reduction of nearly 20,000 tons in the course of a few years owing to taxation. In order, however, to forge rivets for the chains of other nations money must be had, and accordingly the tax went on almost yearly augmenting, until 1805 it was £1 7s. per cwt. on West-India sugar, and £1 9s. 8d. on East-India, in ad- dition to £1 7s. per cent, ad valorem ! The consumption, it is true, slightly increased notwithstanding the rapid augmen- tation of the tax, owing to extended production keeping down the price, in consequence of the increased consumption of tea and coffee, and by reason of the Bank restriction act augmenting the supply of money. The progressive and dis- criminating rates of duty levied on the two sugars in the English markets, up to 1833, will be best seen by the fol- lowing table : — Rates of Duty on West and East India Sugars in England. PERIODS. West India Sugar, per Cwt. East India Sugar, per Cwt. In 1803 £. s. 4 6 7 8 7 10 7 10 7 4 (I. t 6 £. s. 1 6 1 9 1 9 1 11 1 10 1 13 1 18 2 1 17 1 12 d. 4 — 1804 1 From 1805 to 1809 8 In 1810 6 From 1811 to 1812 1813 to 1815 1816 to 1817 1818 1819 to 1830 1831 to 1833 Average Duty 1 7 1 1 12 8 In addition, there was an ad sugar, which from 1787 to 1797 1798 to 1802 was £42 IGs. 3d. from £1 7*. to £1 ditto. The result of this mischievous seen ; the importations of the E, and the total consumption of the a series of years will be found nished. valorem duty on East India Avas £37 I6s. 3d. per cent. ; ditto; 1803 to 1813 varied policy may be readily fore- . I. sugars of course fell off, country on the aggregate of to have considerably dimi- ITS NATURAL RESULT, DECREASED CONSUMPTION. 431 From 1804 to 1813, 29,898,516 cwts. ; 1814 to 1823, 27,078,857— Decrease 2,819,659. cwts. Thus, with an augmented population — in time of peace — a great reduction in the cost of production, freight, &c., there was in ten years a diminution in the consumption of sugar to the extent of upwards of 300,000,000 lbs. weight ! Even in Great Britain alone (independent of Ireland) the result has been most disastrous to the commerce of the coun- try and the health of the people : the consumption was, per head, in 1801, 440 oz. ; 1811, 429 oz. ; 1821, 333 oz. ; 1831, 393 oz. — Decrease on the two latter periods 143 oz. Had it not been for the reduction of the duty in 1830, the decrease would have been much more than it now stands at. The consumption of sugar in the United Kingdom for the year 1810 was 3,769,565 cwts.; 1832, 3,655,000 cwts. — Decrease, 114,565.* The consumption of the distilleries is included, it is true, in the year 1810, and we cannot accurately ascertain the amount ; but admitting the distilleries to have consumed a large quantity, we find that in 1808 (not a year including distillery sugars) the consumption of Great Britain was 2,842,813 cwts., while so late as 1825 it was no more than 2,655,959. Nor has the revenue derived by the state been more fortunate than the commerce of the country. For 16 years the duty derived from the sugar in Great Britain was— from 1807 to 1814, £27,723,224; 1815 to 1822, £26,648,473— Decrease, £1,074,751 . That this diminished consumption (whether positively or relatively as regards the increase of population and wealth) was not owing to a lessened supply or cultivation in tropical countries is thus evident : * To make this decreased consumption more evident, it should be remem- bered that the population of the United Kingdom, in 1810, was about 16,000,000 mouths, and in 1832 fully 25,000,000 ; thus in 1810 the con- sumption of sugar was 421 oz. per head, and in 1832 only 261 oz. ! i. e. a falling off of 160 oz. of sugar per head per annum. 4S2 PAST AND PRESENT STATE OF SUGAR TRADE. Sugar produced in different Countries in 1814 and in 1830. SUGAR COUNTRIES. 1814. 1830. Increase. British West India Islands Mauritius .■• •••• Tons. 190,000 6,000 20,000 60,000 35,000 50,000 30,000 10,000 none Tons. 185,000 30,000 25,000 95,000 30,000 90,000 70,000 38,000 6,000 569,000 Tons, none 24,000 British East India Possessions French Colonies 5,000 35,000 Dutch and Danish Colonies Cuba Brazils none 40,000 40,000 28.000 Beet-root Suo'ar 6,000 Total Comparisons .... Tons 401,000 178,000 Here we observe an increased supply of 3,560,000 cwt.* while the production of our W. I. islands has woefully de- creased, even of late years, as will be thus seen : — Importation of Sugar into Great Britain. WHENCE IMPORTED. 1828. 1829. 1830. 1831. Increase on two Latter Years. British Plantation, "1 West Indies J Mauritius Bengal Siam, Java, &c Tons. 203,403 18,570 6,635 1,175 1,900 4,940 25,254 Tons. 195,230 14,580 8,700 1,600 5,300 4,680 19,403 Tons. 184,222 24,266 10,680 4,000 6,060 4,760 12,191 Tons. 190,790 25,100 7,^^70 3,870 6,610 20,960 16,306 Tons, none 16,238 3,215 5.095 6,470 16,100 none Cuba Brazil West India Molasses, "\ (bastards) J Total and Comparisons 261,877 249,493 246,179 271,506 46,118 * The total quantity of sugar imported into the European ports in 1830 and 1831, was 871,721 tons. The consumption of America in 1830 was estimated at 70,000 tons. In New Orleans the exports of sugar in 1827-8 were 60,000 casks; in 1830-1 they had increased to 90,000 casks. The exportation of sugar from Java in 1825 was 960 tons, in 1829 it amounted to 3,330 tons. The produce of sugar in Cuba was in 1829, 72,000 tons ; and in 1830, 92,000 tons. The Brazils in 1830 exported 70,000 tons of sugar. Martinique and Guadaloupe produced of sugar in 1827,62,800 ENOR^[O^.S TAXATION ON WEST INDIA SUriAR. 4o3 I do not attribute this reduced importation to worn out West India soils. The planters find that improved husbandry, and the alternation of crops, are as conducive to fertility and renovation of the earth in the new world as in the old, but I attribute it to the enormous, and unjust, and impolitic taxa- tion levied on sugar imported into England, and which the planters, notwithstanding the reduced price, have been una- ble to compete with. Proportion of Taxation on the Price of West India Sugar for Tliirty Years. i;92 to 1796, averaging price 55s. id., duty or tax, lis. per Cwt., i. e. 274 per Cent. 1/97.. 1798, 67s. 3d I7s.6d 26 1799.. 1800 64S. 2id., 18s. 2d 28 1801 .. 1892, 62s. 7d., 2tJs 38 1803.. 1823 465. 4d 27s 58^ 1824.. 1B26 33S. 5d 27s. 80j Dec. 1829 23S. 3jd 27S 110 Herein we witness the bane of our colonial policy. We have not only imposed enormous duties on the produce of our transmarine possessions, but, with the idea of keeping up a mercantile marine, we have, while almost shutting the W. Indies out from the home market, forbade their selling their surplus in those of Continental Europe or America ; nay, not only from aeUing, but even from buying food and the necessaries of life, where the Colonists could readily obtain them in ex- change for their sugar, rum, &c. What miserable policy ! What short-sighted statesmanship ! Better were it for the planters of Jamaica, &c. to cut the painter that holds them to a country which, like the dog in the manger, will neither consume what is within its reach, nor allov/ others to obtain that which is refused or neglected. At present the consump- tion of sugar irrthe United Kingdom (vide 1st vol. History of the Colonies, p. 219) is not more than 5 oz. a-week for each individual — a quantity which the youngest child would con- sume. How many millions of our starving countrymen tons; in 1830, 70,000 ton. Bourbon Isle in the same years, 7,200 tons, and 18,000 tons. These statements show whvA abundance of sugar there is in the vvorld, VOL. II. F F 4S4f ONE HUNDRED MILLIONS EMBARKED IN SUGAR PLANTATIONS. scarcely ever taste sugar, though were it within their means (which it would be but for our destructive system of finance and impolitic restrictions on commerce) they would use, at the very least, three times the amount now imported. We have been engaged in upholding a false system. When the British W. I. Colonies were first established they had a free trade to all parts of the world, and the result was the most rapid strides in prosperity ever known. Our exclusive system checked that prosperity — our taxation within the present century completed its ruin. Upwards of £100,000,000 sterling have been invested in the British sugar plantations in the W. Indies — loans of relief have been issued from the British Exchequer to a vast amount — and £20,000,000 sterling have lately been added to purchase slave emancipation ; — All this money, and what is of far more worth, all the gallant blood spilt in defence of those possessions, will have been expended in vain by a perseverance in the present system. We must lower the duty on W. I. sugar from 24s. to \2s. and proportionally reduce the duties on E. I. sugars. We must allow the W. I. islands a free trade with North Ame- rica and with Continental Europe on their own terms* — the Colonists must, in fact, be permitted to buy food at the cheapest rate where they can sell sugar at the dearest price. If this be not done the destruction of all the property em- barked in the W. I. islands is inevitable, and those Colonies will remain like a drag chain round our necks, instead of being, as they would under the system recommended, a source of happiness and prosperity to the parent state. * The following are the Free (so called I suppose on the principle lucus a non lucendo). Ports among the British colonies in the western HEMISPHERE. * No goods shall be imported into, nor shall any goods, except the produce of the fisheries in British ships, be exported from any of the British Possessions in America by sea, from or to any place other than the United Kingdom, or some other of such possessions, except into or from the several ports in such possession, called ' Free Ports,' enu- merated or described in the table following ; (that is to say) — Jamaica, Kingston, Savannah Le Alar, Montego Bay, Santa Lucia, Antonia, Saint Ann, Tahroun Maria, Morant Bav, Annotto Bav, Black SUGAR IMPORTATIONS AT THE PRI>JCIPAL PORTS. 4S5 The diminishing production of sugar imported from the several W. I. islands is shewn in the table fticing this chap- ter. The annual importation at the principal ports of Great Britain of Plantation sugar from 1823 to 1833 was* — London Liverpool ., Bristol, &c. Clyde Total .. 131000 49000 26000 31500 237500 14500(1 45000 2790C 30400 248300 155800 48000 32000 30200 266000 1830 1829 159000 162300 42000 43700 30000 34000 29000 32400 260000 272400 176000 45500 35600 31000 288100 1827 148000 37500 25200 27800 238500 1826 168700 41800 31700 26600 268800 146100 39500 28300 25000 239800 163200 46300 31000 25500 266000 159000 46350 31800 26300 263450 For the years ending in January 1834 and 1833, of sugar there were total importations — in 1834, 4,732,749 cwts. ; in 1833, 4,876,748 ;— of which the West India Colonies furnished in 1834, 3,648,026 cwts.; in 1833, 3,78i,244. Total consump- tion in 1834, 4,075,762 cwts. ; in 1833, 4,^30,474 cwts.; of which the West Indies furnished, in 1834, 3,469,612 cwts. ; in 1833, 3,824,263 cwts. The gross revenue was in 1834, £4,934,098.; in 1833, £5,354,437; of which the West India sugars paid in 1834, £4,167,268 ; in 1833, £4,595,377, Before passing from this branch of my subject, I cannot help adverting to another grievous imposition under which River, Rio Biieno, Port Morant. Grenada, Saint George. Dominica, Roseau. Antigua, Saint John's. Trinidad, San Josef. Tobago, Scar- borough. Tortola, Road Harbour. New Providence, Nassau. Croohed Islands Pitt's Town. Saint Vincenfs, Kingston. Bermuda, Port Saint George and Port Hamilton. Bahamas, any Port where there is u Custom House. Barhadoes, Bridgetown. New Brunswick, St. John's, St Andrew's. Nova Scotia, Halifax, Picton. Canada, Quebec. N^eW' foundland. Saint John's. Demerara, George Town. Berbice, New Amsterdam. Saint Lucia, C?L%ixi&s. Saint Kitts, Bas&eterre, A>y«V, Charles Tovvn. Montserrat, Plymouth. Cape Breton, Sydney. Prince Edward'^ Island, Charlotte Town. Anguilla, Anguilla. And if any goods shall be imported into any port or place in any of the said possessions contrary hereto, such good shall be forfeited.' * I have compiled this important comparative statement from various numbers of Myer's Liverpool Price Current. 4-36 MOLASSES AND HX'M, DUTIES THEREON. the Colonists labour, by being virtually forbidden to refine* their own sugar on the spot where it is made, (the duty on importation into England being £8 8*. per cwt.) for the sake of benefitting a comparatively small body of refiners in England. If such a measure were now to be proposed for the first time, would it not most deservedly be scouted by the good sense of the country ? Why, then should evil be persisted in. Instead of the West Indians petitioning for the prevention of foreign sugar being admitted into the home market for refining, let them strenuously petition to refine their own article on the spot v.here it is grown and manufac- tured. Molasses. The remarks made in the foregoing pages have equal reference to molasses, or treacle, the annual impor- tations of which now average upwards of 300,000 cwt. [vide page 424,] the duty on which, from British possessions, is 9*. per cwt., producing a net revenue of not more than £150,000 per annum; it would be desirable to reduce this duty to 5*. per cwt., and to permit the use of molasses in breweries, distilleries, &c. Rum. The West Indians have pressed much for a reduc- tion of duty on this article ; on this point I do not agree with them : rum is not a necessary of life — it is quite cheap enough for any good purpose, perhaps too cheap for a bad use ; never- theless, though I would not augment the duty on its impor- tation, I would not assuredly reduce it ; to give the planters relief, they should be permitted to send their surplus to foreign markets. To dispose of it, in fact, freed from our baneful monopolizing restrictions. The following table shews the quantity of — t In the report of the Select Committee of the House of Commons on W. I. Aflfairs in 1832, the committee justly state that they ' are at a loss to trace to any sound principle the prohibition of refining suijar in the West Indies ; they cannot justify the prohibition of manufacture in any part of the King's dominions, but least of all the manufacture of their otrn produce by the cultivators ; and they recommend, without hesitation, that this restriction be removed.' RUM IMPORTED FROM THE BRITISH WEST INDIES. 437 -^ '?'» "y In. QC t^ — — ^, ^ ^ ^ _ u* 1^ ^ X ?; tNO ->■ « /'* - 3 o 'O uo X If: CO OltO r^ X OiX t^ Oi = - ilr^i c^ Oi (N to X! l^Cft iN. =^ to © en '.C «3 toto X E^ *^ p rC x^o'oc -s- — "o" ax" ^ cf Oi r>. « E-i C««D(0 -^ ^ o '^ to XtO CI c tN ?? tN 2 -3 OS 54 1-; ^ « (O l^tO 1>*X ^ -i^^co^^ o l^Cs OltO 54 Oi tN t^ I-N Iff 'O o tc -o -o t>. 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G« C ^ ~ — — — Ti " (j c^ o CI r ~ d «- — i — ~ O X X I-^ C X c- ^ ^ ■M - m tN n Oun tf: t-^ CD (X> to t^ Ci -n n w _^ cj ■* t* cj ^00 u- ^CO 00 X rr. o» tN.lN.Ci c to T ^ -r ac ?) !e ir i," 01 — IB *>** "^.'-P^^^^ ^— to t^kft tc _x •w ? CftC 9 .°^ T •4 ir t^ r n CO -rf r Tji tr "■^ci r « T "«•» ^ ^ "^ '(N 'mcO K P" 54 § cc » © - - c 1 CO T^ t-o to ^ ^X OS .- ^ "* ^ t» r^tE Ci = -J «> « ■* IB e o — - ^ 9) ~! f Ti m V rt 1 crxxx'yxxxxy r X X X a X X X X 'X M or XXX X .s •- -I Tf" TO ► CO £2 30 -2 .J3 H rt ^ ^ fl 1 UO 18 13 6 12 11 5 9 8 4 80 57 Cocoa, West India . — 3 2 16 2 00 2 1 13 1 15 41 (ireiiadii, fiir,- red ~~ 4 6 4 3 3 30 3 00 3 06 2 6 3 14 d 13 Coffee, cwt.— Ord. Dom. and St. I.ucia 3 2 2 12 2 70 I 19 1 170 1 18 4 1 3 10 — 12 Hood and fine middling Jamaica ord. 4 1.5 U 4 S 3 18 2 18 4 11 4 2 13 2 la 2 9 1 17 i 16 6 'l 13 1 16 4 2 3 80 13 Good, fine, and middling 4 ISO 4 14 0, 4 B 2 18 3 17 4 18 4 13 0„ 5 Cotton, common, \V. I. lb. 9A t) si 007 7 6i i\ 61 1 3' 7i 18 Arrow Hoot . — 1 11 1 11 2 5 23 1 9 11 I 3 1 3 34 Cassia Fistula . cwt. 6 6 S 5 6 8 5 6 8 2 II 8 1 16 8 1 1 8 83 Fustic . . . ton 10 17 9" 4*6 10 15 6 10 5 6 8 15 6 9 4 6 7 16 6 9 6 17 Sarsaparilla, Honduras . lb. 1 6 1 9 30 2 3 1 3 1 9 2 1 8 11 Vera Cruz . . — 20 09 6 8 08 66 Tamarinds . . cwt. 3' 1 4 S'l 4 2 11 4 4 1 4 4 1 4 3 19 4 4 1 4 3 16 4 24 Ginger, cwt.— Jamaica, fine scraped 14 8 6 7 8 6 7 86 9 8 6 7 13 6 9 8 6 9 8 6 14 2 6 2 Barbadoes 6 18 6 2 11 6 1 2 2 6, 1 10 6 1 8 6 I 18 6 2 3 6., 3 13 6, 6? 47 Hides, Salted . . lb. 0/' 13 0* 45; 45 053 53 6 B* 6 O.iS 13 Indigo, Caracco Flores — Copper and low ord. — 11 6 11 II 9 6 II 6 6 6 6 6 53 6 9 49 3 9 4 2 6 2 4 20 22 67 Lignum vitie . . ton. 14 8 8 9 10 9 III 6 10 :■, 10 5 5 5 16 6 5S Logwood, Jamaica, picked — 7 5 700 6 11) 700 6 5 6 HI » 5 6 3 15 Molasses . . . - 1 20 1 1 IS 14 13 13 14 1 1 4 Nicaragua Wood, ton. — Large and Solid 25 S 21 5 15 5 13 5 13 5 14 5 15 15 18 28 Small 17 5 12 5 9 5 7 5 8 5 7 15 12 5 14 15 14 Pimento 9,^ 10 9 8i 6 5 6 5J 46 Rum, per gallon (per Svkes's Hydrometer— Jamaica 12 to 141 Ditto 15 to IS f 2 10 3 1 3 5 34 23 2 2 20 2 3 20 Ditto 28 to ;;o . 3 6 3 10 4 6 4 2 3 3 2 4 2 10 19 Strongest Jamaica cwt. 3 8 4 3 4 9 4 6 3 8 3 1 3 2 2 4 9 Demerara . — 3 03 8 3 9, 40 3 26 2 1 02 9 8 Tobacco, St. Domingo Leaf — 2 6 10 007? 074 6i 8^ osi 1 60 Sugar, B. P. Muscovado- Jamaica, fine . - 2 8 2 5 2 3 2 4 2 00 1 15 1 12 1 15 27 Good Brown , — 1 19 1 12 1 15 1 10 1 4 1 4 1 3 1 8 6 26 Havannah, fine white — 2 10 2 5 2 9 2 10 2 9 1 18 1 13 1 15 :«( i>itto yellow ^ 1 16 1 16 1 17 I IS I 9 1 5 1 60 1 60 27 It will be observed from the foregoing, that the prices of W. I. produce have fallen rapidly of late years : the re- duction will go on vintil a large quantity of land be thrown out of cultivation, when general poverty will ensue. Then will arise a servile war between the negroes and the owners of the soil, — the former will lay their sufferings at the door of the latter, and vice versa ; mutual recrimination follows, and and the result may easily be foreseeen — each British West India possesion will become a St. Domingo or a desert — but not without a great sacrifice of life,* and the almost incalcu- * The past system in the West Indies has necessitated the keepinq" up of an immense military force, even in peace time : at this moment there are from 8,500 to 9,000 regular troops in the different British possessions, Jamaica alone is head quarters for six regiments, Guyana for two, Tri- nidad one European and one West India (a black regiment), Barbadoes one, St. Vincent's one, Grenada one, St. Lucia one, Bahamas (the second West India regiment, blacks), Antigua one, and one at Bermuda. To r PROMPT MEASURES NECESSARY TO SAVE THE WEST INDIES. 447 lable wealth expended in bringing those islands to their pre- sent state of refinement will be irrecoverably lost. Is this a state of things for a British Statesman or a Philanthropist to contemplate calmly even the possibility of? I fear the grant of £20,000,000 has produced a state of apathy highly injurious to the W. I. interests ; several in- fluential persons think that by that act enough has been done to preserve the W. Indies,* while the mortgagees are supine as to the future in rejoicing over their present gain. Although a firm believer in the wise ordinations of Provi- dence, I do not think we are justified in leaving every thing to apparent chance or destiny ; we are bound to act accord- ing to the best of our judgments, and commit the result to superior wisdom ; therefore do I contend we ought to take immediate steps for the future benefit of the W. I. posses- sions ; the duty on their sugar and molasses, coffee, and to- bacco, when imported into England must be reduced, and on all articles which have not produced each a £1,000. per an. to the Exchequer during the the last ten years, or which have not been previously imported, the duty should be totally admit of reliefs, at least 9,000 men more are required ; and taking casualties into consideration, we may calculate that the W. I. colo- nies employ 20,000 men out of the whole British army, or require that number of men to be kept up. Under the system of free trade, which I propose the necessity for the mother country to maintain, this force would cease, or if it were deemed advisable to retain troops in the islands, the West Indies (as the East Indies now do), would be obliged and indeed be enabled to defray the whole expenses of the same. * The 41 per cent, duties which are levied on the produce of Barbadoes, Antigua, St. Kitts, Montserrat, Tortola, &c. ought, long ago, to have been repealed ; that their imposition, up to this moment, is not owing to His Gracious Majesty is evident from the following passage in the Royal Speech, in 1830. ' I place, without reserve, at your disposal my interests in the Hereditary Revenues, and in those funds which may be derived from any droits of the Crown or Admiralty, from the West India duties, or from any casual revenues either in my foreign possessions, or in the United Kingdom.' — Speech of f-niliain IF. to his first Parliament, Nov. 2, 1830. 448 ARTICLES OS Wlliril TIIK DITY SIIOULD BE ABOLISHED. abolished, or at least (after the wise example of Cromwell) not levied for the next ten years.* The following are among the articles which should he ad- mitted into England, duty free, from the British W. Indies : cocoa, or chocolate, cotton, vinegar, dates, oil of pimento, blossoms of pimento, leather, logwood, brazilletto, starch, tamarinds, balsams, baskets, plantains, dried or preserved, hides, lime juice, ebony, lignum vitae, nicaragua wood, ma- hogany, preserved ginger, lancewood spars, pickled peppers, succades, preserved fruits and pickles of every kind ; honey, wax, arrow root, tapioca, cocoa nuts and castor oils.f turmeric and various dyes. (Liqueurs at the same rate as spirits, and Segars and snuff as tobacco ;) oranges, lemons, limes and citrons, cordage, hemp, pepper extracts, palmetto thatch for hats, Guinea and Indian corn, rice, various drugs, such as senna, aloes, jalap, barks, &c. &c. &c. Our next step should be permission for the colonists to open a trade on their own terms, fettered by no restrictions with Continental Europe or America, for the disposal of that surplus produce which we do not require, and that they may obtain at the lowest cost the necessaries of life ; (that this would not injure our North American Colonies I will de- monstrate in my next volume.) The Parliamentary Select Committee of 18,32 report that^ ' In its competition with foreign countries, the colonial pro- duce of Great Britain is also subjected to disadvantages, oc- casioned by the commercial and maritime policy of the mother country. Partial attempts, counteracted in a degree by cir- cumstances, have been made of late years to relieve the colo- * For a tariff of articles, with the discriminating' duties levied on West India, Eiist India, and foroinn articles, see first vohinie of the History of the Britisli Colonies, Pag:e221. t An acre of the worst ground, viz. the sides of _afullies, &c. if planted with the castor oil nut tree {r'lcinus), yields nuts capable of giving 1,000 gallons of oil, which, at 3.? per gallon, would return dl\bQ per acre, with little or no trouble in the cultivation. PARLIAMENTARY ADVOCACY OF FREE WEST INDIA TRADE. 449 nies from the effects of restrictive laws. They have been per- mitted to carry on a direct intercourse with those countries of Europe and America, which by complying with the terms pre- scribed, have entitled themselves to such intercourse; but the importation of goods from these foreign countries has been clogged by discriminating duties, and there has been in fact scarcely any intercourse with those countries. In respect of the United States of America, the most important either for export or import, the intercourse has been from time to time suspended, renewed and modified ; and has finally been per- mitted under a system of protection for the North American colonies, which, together with the uncertainty produced by frequent changes, renders it as yet doubtful, whether, during the existence of that protection, any benefit will be derived by the West India Colonies from its renewal. And in regard to some very material articles of supply, a strict monopoly is still maintained in favour of the mother country, or of her North American possessions.' The direct effect of these com- mercial restrictions has been computed by the W. I. mer- chants at the annual charge of no less than £1,392,353. ster- ling; thus abstracting from the pocket of the planter in the article of sugar alone 5s. on every cwt. of sugar he makes. But grievous as this imposition is, the indirect effect of the commercial monopoly against the W. I merchant and planter is far more ruinous, for it has been one of the main causes of destruction to the colonies — it has been the inward canker, undermining the very existence of West India agricul- ture, trade, and property. Thirdly, the emigration of Europeans or whites to the West Indies should be encouraged by every possible means ; the millions of acres of fertile territory in Crown lands now lying waste, should be granted at a nominal quit rent to any person of industry and character for the purpose of coloniza- tion ; and I refer to the description of each possession in the foregoing pages for proof of the capability of the soil and delightfulness of the climate as regards European settlement. The beneficial effects of an extensive location of whites in the VOL. 11. G G 150 DIVISION OF THE NEGROES INTO CLASSES. West Indies would not only be felt in commercial undertak- ings but also in the example which would be set to stimulate the negro and coloured race * to greater mental activity and bodily energy than under the present change they might be disposed to adopt.f * The negro population of the West Indies are of different nations in Africa ; some termed Congo, others Obbe, Coromantee, Papaw, Mandingo, Chamba, &c. all varying in disposition, intellect, and habits ; while their Creole descendants possess in common the mingled disposition of their ancestors, but in general are more acute and quicker of apprehension than the pure African. The coloured inhabitants have several denominations, thus — mulattoes are sprung from white and black parents, samboes from black and mulattoes, quadroons from white and ditto, mestces from white and quadroons. Below the latter, the distinction of colour is hardly per- ceptible. Between the castes an endless variety of nondescript shades exist, descending from deep jet to olive. t The following sound views on this subject are thus set forth in the Antigua Herald, Barhadoes Mercury, and Liverpool Standard, by various correspondents : — ' Let IIS imagine the probable efl'ectof tlic iiitrudiiction often white families of our civilized peasantry, consisting, say of five persons each — into a community of 300 blacks. Let us suppose that such only be sent as have habits of morality and Industry previously formed, and that comfortable cottages are prepared for them, moberate labour furnished to them, and remuneration in return — equal to the supply not only of the necessaries and comforts, but luxuries of life— let us look at, say thirty of these fifty persons, attending to their agricultural labour with alacrity during the hours devoted to work — and returning to their white washed cottages and happy families in the evening; there and in their own immediate circle enjoying themselves, as the labourers of Euglaud do, when the toils of the day have ceased. Man, all over the world, is an imitative animal. The cleanly cottages — the small but neat gardens before the doors of the whites, would first attract notice; then, the decent clothing, the moral conduct of Eiiglii-h families as compared with negroes, would in time command attention. ' Tlien the uiiweaiitd industry, the thought of providing for the future support of themselves and families, which their habits would exhibit, would be observed; and, in the courseof time, is it unreasonable to hope, imitated? The desire to be equal to them would be created, and the gratification of this desire could only be accomplished by industry. The negroes on this estate were obliged to work in the field like themselves, and that exactly the same means would be open to them to reach the same end at the expiration of their apprenticeship. ' The machinery of life would thus be daily placed before their eyes, in the operations of whicli, by and by, they are to lake their part. This chiefly (but not only) is the education which 1 would give them. ' There are upwards of 300,000 negroes in Jamaica alone. Let me ask the philanthropist (o picture to himself the great moral eflcct likely to be produced in tliecourse of a very few years on such a number of our fellow- creatures by the plan which I propose. I now come to show, secondly, ' the benefits to the emigrants.' 'There is not a berry of coffee or pimento shipped from the island, the labour attending which cannot be dune by white European men, women, and children. The labour to be per- formed is like the gathering of goose-ben ies, (sans tpines,) then the coffee has to be pulped, dried upon the Intibiiincs, put into bags^, and i^ carried to the backs of mules and asses. In CAPABILITY OF RECEIVING A LARGE TOPULATION. 451 Two other measures deserve attention — 1st. the Monetary System in the West Indies — and 2nd. the principles on which short, I fearlessly assert that one-third of the labour performed by the 300,000 negroes in Jamaica, can he done better by the white Europeans, and without injury to their healtli. From an emineut medical practitioner, and an extensive proprietor, Kinjistou, Jamaica: — ' Yon would be conferring a great benefit both upon us and ynnr poor fellow-countrymen were you to send out to us a number of them as free labourers. I would instantly place some hundreds of them in the mountains beyond the line of fever, where there would be abundance of occupation and better pay than they receive in their own country. Their food would be yams, (like and equal to any potatoes,) plantains, cocoa, salt tish ; their own hogs and poultiy, and sometimes fresh and salted beef and pork; houses, gardeus, and clothing, besides a sum in money, weekly,' &c. &c. The following is from a German planter, resident in St. David's, Jamaica. ' Wishing now, as well as yourself, to forward the welfare of and secure the property in the island, I am ready to take twenty free labourers, males and females with their children, but excluding old people, under the following conditions: — For the first year 1 could pay to each ahle person ^'8 Jamaica currency, maiuiaining ihem for nine months in the following articles, viz. twelve yards of duck, six yards of pennistone, a coarse hat, one pair of shoes, one iron pot sutlicient for two people, and one frying pan, giving them for food a weekly allowance of 50 lb. of yams or cocoa, or 70 full grown plantains, 6 lb. salted fish, and coffee, and half a pound of sugar, and one quart of rum. To enable them to maintain themselves after the first nine mouths, I agree to assign them on their arrival two acres of virgin land for each labourer for cultivation. It requires no remark thai I would provide for them good commodious habitations, and on finding them faithful and industrious, improve their wages; — Infant children I would maintain until their parents were able to do it themselves, aud to those that could be in any way useful to the property I would give clothing. Medicines and medical attendance I could keep for these etnigrants the first year only, leaving it to them to procure these things afterwards. ' But, doubtless, the industrious emigrant would look forward to something beyond being a mere labourer, if not for himself for his children. And where, let me ask, is there a better field for industry and perseverance? Almost every description of climate that is to be found in Europe is to be met with in Jamaica. In short, the cold, dismal, cloudy, wet days of this country are there unknown, and a healthier race does not exist than the inhabitants of the mountains. ' Hundreds of thousands of acres of rich and fertile lands in the parishes of St. James, St. David's, St. George, &c. &c. remain still in a state of nature, and to this hour uucultivated ; valuable copper and other mines unexplored, and whole forests of rich aud rare timbers, imcnt, in consequence of the want of roads, and difficulty of conveying it to the sea coast. Let then, the tide of emigration flow thither :— let British enterpiise, British industry, British ca- pital, find a safe home there, and then, and then only, can the ' resources of that fine island be developed.' According to some letters which I have seen, Suffolk husbandmen with their ploughs and cattle have been already located on several West India estates, and the result has been happiness to themselves and advantage to their employers. ' Lauded property, writes a gentleman from Jamaica, would be of little value in England witL- out labourers to till the soil ; the same observation applies to Jamaica, the owners of the soil there are apprehensive that the blacks will not work, aud they want from this country whites that will, in order to make their freeholds valuable. ' It is chiefly with respect to the low lands that this apprehension exists. It is not, I hope, presumptuous, to suppose that the Almighty has created, in his all-wise providence, not only different climates inthe world, but human beings to inhabit and work in them, without injury to themselves respectively. I would not place a black man to work in the open air in Russia, or even in England, during the depth of winter, nor would I a white man to dig cane holes in the low lands of Jamaica ; but I would, by my plan, endeavour to supersede the necessity of any black laboureis in the mountains, aud by having 50 to 60,000 whites theie, bring down say 452 ADVANTAGES OF WHITE EMIGRATION TO THE WEST INDIES. the £20,000,000 Compensation Fund is to be disbursed ; — as rec^ards the first, tlie reader will have perceived the various 100,000 l)lacks to the low lands. This would beiieet the planters withont injury to the negroes; to the former it would give a greater quantity of labourers, consequently a greater competition in the market, and a greater certainty of getting off his crops ; to the latter, it would make the necessity of working greater, cmsequently, less fear of their relapsing into barbarism. • With respect to tho benefit to the mother country from white emigration to the West Indies. • You cannot beuetii any of England's colonies without the largest portion of such benefit flowing back to England. ' Let us then suppose the industry of fifty or one hundred thousaud persons transferred from England, in which their utmost exertions, early and late, can scarcely furnish the mere neces- saries of life, to one where two thirds the toil will biing three-fold the return. ' How will this additional retnrn be spent ? It will reach England every fraction of it ; all their wants are English ; and an additional impetus will be given to English mannfactnres and to Biitlsh shipping. Let us suppose that emigrants, or emigrants' children make a foitune— where will it be spent? — In England, to be sure.' ' Very exaggerated views are entertained in this country relative to the difflculty and danger of agricultural labour in tropical climates. There are several of the West India islands in which, Willi ordinary care and prudence, illness is very rare among the white Inhabitants — where the heat, on an average of six working hours in ihe day, is but little greater than it is during the months of July in England, and where there are immense tracts of fertile land uncultivated. (\'ide Jamaica, Guyana, Trinidad, Dominica, &c.) ' In the Islands of St. Vincent's and Grenada there are many estates which cannot continne the extent of sugur-cane laud formerly in cultivation without additional labourers, and the proprietors would he very glad to select such from :>mong industrious, sober and respectable Englishtncn. ' The suiiar-cane cultivation, however, is not the only employment in which European la. bourers might be engaged with advantage to themselves and the proprietors. ' There is in the Islands before mentioned, a great extent of fertile land, capable of pro- ducing the finest vegetables, arrow root, indi^'o, coffee, cocoa, &c., which might be brought into productive cultivation. Indeed there is probably no part of ihe world where skilful and indus- trious persons might find more useful and profitable employment than in these Islands, which produce every thing that can be found in a tropical cliuiate, and where many of the productions of a temperate one could, by care and c;iliiva'iou, be much improved. By encouraging the growth of various articles of consumpiion, which, from want of skill and labour, are now ne- cessarily procured from abroad at high prices, these colonies would be rendered more inde- pendant of foreign support. ' It is considered that, in addition to the advantages both to the proprietors of estates and the Engli-h labouiers by this plan of emigration, the Islands would be benefited by having their local militia strengthened, and a greater security offered them against local revolt or foreign enemy. ' The example of the industrious habits of the emigrants would infuse a new spirit and feeling throughout the lab.mrin^ cla^s of negroes; agricultural labour would no longer be considered (as it now is in the West Indies) a degrading employment ; the system of work- ing for wages would be more generally understood ; the external observance of tliose ties which ought to govern moral and social life would be rendered more probable ; and such a change would be effected In the habits and dispositions of the negroes, as would qualify them to derive the full advantage de.-igued for them by emancipation. ' The obstacle which has hitherto proved the most formidable to the empluyment of European labourers in the West Indies is intcmperancf. — From this cause far more fatal consequences are to be apprehended than from the climate ; and the individuals who intend making proposals to the English peasantiy to emiurate, will require that all they employ should be bound by a heavy penalty not to taste ardent spirits. ' Ihe wages which estates would pay to laboiireis of this description, may be stated generally PROJECTED INDIA BANK — CAPITAL X* 1,000,000. 453 currencies, in the difterent islands, and may naturally infer the impediment thus offered to commercial intercourse. This is a great evil — but a still greater evil is the state of the ex- changes between England and the West Indies, which has caused the constant transmission of any metallic currency, that may be poured into the colonies, to the Mother Country, thus affecting the body politic in a manner similar to that which a daily or weekly abstraction of blood from the body corporate would have. To remedy these great evils, it is proposed (and I hope Government will give it every aid), to form a West India Bank, with a capital of £1,000,000 Ster- ling, the head-quarters of which shall be in England, and the branches thereof divided among the colonies ; such a measure would equalize or regulate the exchanges, would promote commercial intercourse, between each island, and facilitate the operations of the planter, by affording him that accommo- dation which the country bankers of England give to the farmers and merchants. By drawing bills on England at 2 or 2| per cent., the irresistible temptation to the transmis- sion of the colonial currency to England, would be prevented ; and by giving an expansible circulating medium as the repre- sentative of value to the colonists, their wellbeing would be materially promoted. Coupled with this banking system should be the calling in of all the debased colonial small coin, and the substitution of a sterling currency of shillings, sixpences, and threepences, all in silver, the negroes will not, if possible, touch copper coin. I have no doubt that this measure would prove of infinite value to the W. I. colonies and parent state. With reference to the 2nd. question, on which the public mind is much agitated : — The principles on which the sum of at the rate of ^€"8 steiiiiig per man, £6 per woman, and £4 per boy alice ten years "f age, an- nnally, with a house and provision grounds rent tree, as well as a day per week, exclnsive of Sunday for cultivating their grounds. This would enable them to raise sufficient food for their support, and somewhat to sell besides. A labouring family, consisting of faiher, nmtlier, and three children, (two above ten years of age,) might earn as wages £'22 sterling per annum, have their house and provision grounds rent free, live on the produce ot the latter, and sell the surplus provisions, which, if they were industrious, would jield them about ^20 sterliiii in addition.' I earnestly hope inslaut steps will be taken to carry the project of emigration iiilu full effect ; it Is uow being partially adopted in St. Kittt with complete success. 454 PROPOSED ALLOCATION OF £ 20,000,000. COMPENSATION. £20,000,000 allocated by the Legislature for the reimburse- ment of loss owing to the emancipation of slaves, may I be- lieve, be considered settled as regards the questions of ad valorem or per capita; it seems to be now acknowledged that the sworn or arbitrated value of a slave, according to his current market price, is the fairest principle for awarding com- pensation. In order to determine the amount of compensation, accurate and complete returns from every plantation in the slave colonies are to be sent in by the 1st August, or within three months from that date. These returns are to be trans- mitted to England, and as soon as they have all arrived, the process of awarding the compensation-monies will commence, unless where counter claims may be sent in from mortgagees, &c. Although the mortgagees have an undoubted claim on the property, I think measures should be taken to secure a portion of the compensation-money to the planter, and not allow the creditor to grasp all, thus leaving the former in no condition to proceed with the culture of the estate ; if the mortgagee were secured the interest of his money for five or seven years, binding him down at the same time not to fore- close the deed, the planter would have time to raise his head above water, and struggle through past difficulties ; or if this be not acceeded to, the mortgagee should have the option of entering into a fair compromise for his claims, say, one half or two-thirds of his dues being paid down in order to give up any farther lien on the planter. If some step of this kind be not taken, the half of the planters will be utterly ruined, and land, which under the present system has little value accord- ing to its geographical extent, will lose the chance it now has of possessing intrinsic worth jjer se. By the planter having his land unincumbered, and some ready money in his pocket, he will be enabled to commence the Metayer System^, as now * The introduction of the Metayer System of the East Indies (see First Volume), into the British West India colonies ought to be adopted as soon as possible ; by this means industrious, well-disposed, and intelligent co- loured people will stimulate their less active bretheren, and set a good example. NECESSITY OF ABOLISHING COLONIAL MONOPOLIES, 455 practised in British India, and in Italy, with advantage to himself, to the numerous small farmers or planters which will be created, and with benefit to the parent state. I urge these points strenuously, because the British nation having munifi- cently granted £20,000,000 compensation, have a right to see it beneficially distributed, and not squandered for the sole use of Jews and money brokers. The planters have already made great pecuniary sacrifices for the moral and religious instruction of their dark brethren, to enable them to continue their praiseworthy efforts, the measures I have pointed out should be adopted without delay ; it is no longer consistent with justice or sound policy to continue to the West Indies a monopoly of the supply of the home market ; other tropical colonies demand our attention, and have a right to insist on equitable treat- ment from the mother country ; besides, we cripple our own power — and resources and commerce by the present exclusive protection to West India sugar, coffee, and rum, — we impoverish a dense population at home, and (as the experience of the past proves) confer no benefit on the colo- nial agriculturists. Let me implore all who value the hap- piness of their fellow subjects in every clime to aid in abo- / lishing the wretched policy of pitting one intei-est against another — the West Indian against the East Indian ; the Cana- dian against the Australian ; the European against the Afri- can ; — it is indeed imperatively necessary that such miserable legislation should cease ; — England derives no advantage fi*om it, on the contrary, she materially suffers in her revenue — in her internal and maritime commerce — as well as by depriving herself of free outlets to every part of the globe for her un- employed population and surplus manufactures. I advocate nothing Utopian ; in the preparation of this Work I have been necessitated to look into the early history of the colonies and the mother country — and I invariably found that it was owing to commercial freedom that the British West India Islands became peopled, cultivated, and enriched ;* whenever restrictions were * See Appendix for a view of the advantages resulting to the Danish 456 RESULT OF DENYING COMMERCIAL FREEDOM TO THE W. T. placed on their trade with America, Holland, France, &c. they immediately began to declinein prosperity, and by a singular co- incidence the mischiefs inflicted by the cupidity of man were frequently followed by the terrific visitations of the elements. What with the curse of slavery, the blighting effects of hur- ricanes, and the far more destructive influence of commercial jealousy the wonder is how the West India colonies have maintained themselves during the last thirty years ; nothing but the unconquerable energy of Britons could have surmounted the ruinous prospects and destruction of property which has been annually going on, and which will progress in an accelerated ratio unless the islands be permitted to renew their commercial intercourse with Europe and America, totally unfettered by any legal restrictions from the mother country. Give, I repeat, the British West Indies that unli- mited mercantile freedom, for which their geographical posi- tion, fertile soil, and fine harbours so eminently qualify them, and neither the mother country, nor the colonies, have any thing to fear for the future ; — Deny it them much longer and it were far better that the surrounding ocean overwhelmed and sunk them in its fathomless abyss, rather than that they should continue to drag on an anxious and paralyzed exist- ence fraught with misery and ruin to all engaged in those once prosperous but still highly important and beautilul Isles of the West. island of St. Thomas, by making it a Free Port, and the necessity of making Tortola and Dominica (at least) also free ports ; not with the present mockery of privileges, clogged and rendered in fact inutile by all the forms and ceremonies of Official Authorities, Custom Houses, &e. our, so called West India free ports, have been a subject of merriment for the Americans, of ridicule for the French, satisfaction for the Danes, and of wonder to all the European powers. Let our free ports in the West Indies be in reality as free as the air that blows around them, and white settlers, with small capitals, will be attracted, who will soon find the channels of a beneficial intercourse with continental Europe and America, and with the valuable islands of Porto Rico, St. Domingo, and Cuba. 4-5 APPENDIX TO THE SECOND \'OLUME OF THE HISTORY OF THE BRITISH COLONIES. [OFFICIAL DOCUMENTS.] A. Total Amount of the Trade between the United Kincdom and the Hritish West India Colonies since 1814. OFFICIAL VALUE. exports to the BRITISH VV. INDIES. Imports from the British W. Indies. British and Foreisfnand IrishProduce Colonial and Manu- factures. Merchan- dize. TOTAL of EXPORTS. Declared ! Value of Bri- jtish and Irish Produce and Manufac- jtures Export- ed to the Bri- tish W.Indies. SCf \ ^^ ^ ^ '^ 1814 9,022,309 \ 6,282,226 339,912 6,622,138 7,019,938 181.5 8,903,260 j 6,742,451 453,630 7,196,081 i 7,218,057 1816 7,847,895 ' 4,584,509 268,719 4,8.53,228 1 4,537,056 1817 8,326,926 , 6,632,708 382,883 7,015,591 1 5,890,199 1818 8,608,790 > 5,717,216 | 272,491 i 5,989,707 | 6,021,627 1819 8,188,539 ! 4,395,215 297,199 i 4,692,414 i 4,841,253 1820 8,353,706 4,246,783 314,567 4,561,350 1 4,197,761 1821 8,367,477 4,940,609 370,738 5,311,347 4,320,581 1822 8,019,765 4,127,052 243,126 i 4,370,178 3,439,818 1823 8,425,276 ' 4,621^589 285,247 4,906,836 3,676,780 1824 9,065,546 4,843'556 324,375 5,167,931 3,827,489 1825 7,932,829 4,702,249 295,021 4,997,270 3,866,834 1826 8,420,454 3,792,453 255,241 4,047,694 3,199,265 1827 8,380,833 I 4,685,789 331,586 5,017,375 3,683,222 1828 9,496,950 J 4,134,744 326,298 4,461,042 3,289,704 1829 9,087,923 5,162,197 359,059 5,.521,256 3,612,085 1830 8,599,100 3,749,799 290,878 4,040,677 2,838,448 1831* 18321 I833I * I leave several blank years to be filled in accordinsjas returns are made up by government, for future reference to a standard work like the ' History of the British Colonies,' there will be thus more facility in noting down from year to year the data as they appear before Parliament. 458 APPENDIX B. An Account of the Imports, E.xports, and Home Consumption of Sugar, inclusive, with the Annual Averaoce Prices and Rates of Duty for IMPORTS. Years. British Plantation. Mauritius. East India. Foreign Plantation. Total of Imports. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. 1814 3,581,516 49,849 581,421 4,212,786 1815 3,642,807 125,639 365,889 4,134,335 1816 3,560,317 Considered 127,052 192,780 3,880,149 1817 3,679,352 as East India J "Sugar in these" Years. 125,893 105,916 3,911,161 1818 3,7/5,379 162,395 138,032 4,075,806 1819 3,907.151 205,527 85,837 4,198,515 1820 3,769,458 277,228 162,990 4,209,676 1821 3,906,967 269,162 197,037 4,373,166 1822 3,435,061 226,371 112,954 3,774,386 1823 3,773,528 219,580 208,593 4,201,706 1824 3,935,052 , 271,848 205,750 4,412,650 1825 3,501,281 93,723 150,347 162,784 3,908,135 1826 4,002,426 186,782 164,822 65,065 4,419,095 1827 3,550,918 204,344 175,846 178,910 4,110,018 1828 4,313,430 361,325 156,266 136,999 4,968,020 1829 4,152,815 297,958 206,052 199.568 4,856,393 1830 3,913,268 485,710 293,769 223,257 4,916,004 1831 4,103,746 517,553 237,416 507,547 5,366,262 1832 1833 REVENUE COLLECTED UPON SUGAR. GROSS RECEIPT OF DUTIES. P.VY.MF.N'T.^ Gross Uece 3Ut of pt. Net u Foreign Planlation, (in- Drawback and Bounty Produce British Planta- tion. Mauri . East tius. ' India. fliiding: tiugar of Marti- liii|MC and l.iiadalijupe, admilled for Home Con- suTiiption, under At;t Total of Gross Receipt. alloued on F.xp to Foreign Par Hepavmcnts en Klitrics, 81 irtiition 5, and Over of Duties. 5:1 Geo. .3. c. 62.) £. ^. £. Jt. je. £. ^'. 1814 4,577,956 S ■ 24,299 353,229 4,955,434 1,187,960 3,767,524 1815 4,740,781 a 73,999 65,579 4,830,359 1,426,026 3,454,333 1816 4,921,034 1 « 64,913 79,349 5,065,296 1,453,103 3,612,193 ; 1817 5,966,545 "5 '^ 50,612 8,034 6,025,191 1,591,265 4,433,926 1 1818 4,313,581 '- J ■ 50,114 2,118 4,365,813 1,614,706 2,751,107 1819 4,984,878 ,'192,014 924 5,177,816 1,181,273 3,996,543 1820 5,288,926 1 156,968 1,011 5,446,905 1,521,518 3,925,387 1821 5,352,130 5 222,438 1,075 5,575,643 1,386,685 4,188,958 1822 4,611,730 % j 254,335 1,117 4,867,182 806,733 4,060,444 1823 5,135,409 o 190,783 750 5,326,942 919,532 4,407,410 1824 5,207,132 ^ 282,537 210 5,489,879 847,975 4,641,904 1825 4,651,525 106,205:198,322 99 4,956,151 779,496 4,176,655 1826 5,273,648 150,356 265,037 85 5,689,126 738,128 4,950,998 182715,059,208 ->30,005 172,406 30,251 1,491,870 841,678 4,650,193 1828 5,415,715 !26,448, 1 80,055 2,658 5,924,876 922,579 5,002,297 1829 5,340,258 524,752 1223,002 8.745 5,896,757 1,000,515 4,896,243 1830 5,226,966 )58,207 230,185 47,961 6,063,322 1,295,980 4,767,342 1831 4,936,592 )47,855 189,609 104,358 5,778,414 1,127,824 4,650,590 [ 1832 1833 4 APPENDIX B. 459 and of tlie Revenue collected thereon, in each Year from 1814 to 1S31 the same period; stated for the United Kingdom. EXPORTS. Consumption. BRITISH Refined Sugar, Total Export RAW SUGAR. Quantity retained Fo- reign Planta- tion. (reduced to its of Sugar, for Actual Consumption British Planta- tion. Mau- ritius. East India, i Total of Raw Sugar. equivalent Raw Quantity of and Raw Sugar.) Refined. in the United Kingdom. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. f 2,324,051 430,817 1 41,083 A 59,990 931,890 897,347 1,829,237 < including Sugar used l_ in Distilleries. 385,761 .2 67,665 ; 11,378 764,804 994,025 1,758,829 2,211,299 234,996 - 1 101,581 90,190 526,767 953,314 1,480,081 2,529,931 142,571 95,218 32,937 370,726 1,141,724 1,512,450 3,298,941 98,512 109,952 08,687 317,151 1,157,082 1,474,233 1,726,896 58,913 s| 87,587 02,710 249,210 847,798 1,097,008 2,820,900 77,057 185,068 38,298 '400,423 1,098,616 1,499,039 2,901,864 9,851 l~ 144,332 86,314 340,497 1,022,731 1,363,228 3,056,882 10,657 -3 98,277 37,707 246,641 561,206 807,847 2,989,057 11,231 S 104,796 76,717 292,744 677.593 970,337 3,228,991 8,836 J5 146,358 213,980 369,174 640,054 1,009,228 3,367,424 11,529 21,593 36,625 73,075 242,822 549,782 792,604 3,079,848 102,297 45,534 46,669 05,801 300,301 586,172 886,4/3 3,.'i73,990 40,931 46,480 64,079 03,965 255,455 695,402 950,857 3,340,927 50,586 117,985 42,546 160,329; 371,446 776,624 1,148,070 3,601,419 16,467 52,321 56,174 172,950 297,912 808,435 1,106,34/ 3,539,821 13,355 48,383 83,413 166,310 311,461 1,032,886 1,344,347 3,722,044 10,800 11,1/4 111,102 287,644 420,720 989,120 1,409,840 3,787,391 a-s. RATES OF DUTY. nual avera ces of Briti Muscovado Sugar. British Foreign Plantation, Plantation, (Brown or Mauritius. East India. (Brown or a 'C Muscovado.) Muscovado.) perCwt. per Cwt. per Cwt. per Cwt. gg. s. d. f To 10 April, jEI. 13. •^ £. s. d. N. D. Foreign Su- trar was, durini; the 73s. id. 1 10 — ( Charged as 1 ifo'^f.' "cfi^itio. l E. I. Sugar. ] 5 May to 5 Sept. .£1.11. Lj From 5 Sept. jEI. IS). I 3 3 — undcr-mentioucd pe- riods, admitted to eutry for the purpose of being refined, on 6ls. lOrf. 1 10 — rToSMay, ^1.10. \ From 5 Slay, £1.17. } 3 3 — payment of the fol- lowing Rates of 48s. yd. /To 5 Sept. £1.10. 1 \ From 5 Sept. £1.7. / 1 7 — { To 5 May, £1.19. 5 May to 5 Sept. £2. From 5 Sept. .i'1.17. 1 17 — ■1 TooSept. fS..'!. /From 5 Sept. £3. Duty: From 1 June, \»2;, ids. 8a. £1.9. per cwt. From -28 July, 18iS, toSJuly, ISaO: If not of greater va- lue than the ave- 50s. 1 10 — 3 3 — fToSMav, jei.lO. t To 5 Mav, ^£2. 1 To 3 May, ^3 3. 41s. id. i 5 May to Sep. jgl.S. > (From 5 Sept. £1. 7- ) S May to .5 Sept. £1.18. From 5 Sept. £1.17. ^.5Mayto.5Sep.£3.1. J From 5 Sept. £ii. rage price of Sugar ofthe British Plan- tations in America. 36s. 2d. 1 7 — 1 7 — 1 7 — 1 7 — 1 17 — 1 17 — 1 17 — 1 17 — 3 — — £\.l. per cwt. 33s. 2d. And further in re- 31s. spect of every shil- ling by which it might e.^ceed such 32s. \\d. 31s. 6 1 17 — 3 -^ — 5 July, 1831 : |.Tuly chartfcd as Su- 1 If not nf greater va- ^ Igarof tlieBrit.Plant.l^ lue than the ave- 30s. 7d. 1 7- { i Charged as Sugar of l i 17 the British Planut. 1 J ' 3 3 - rage price of Sugar ofthe British Plan- 35s. Qd. 1 7 - 1 17 - 3 3 — tations in America, £1.4. per cwt. 31s. Sd. 1 7 — 1 17 — 3 3 — And further in re- spect of every shil- ling by which it might exceed such average price, 6rf. 28s. ~d. 1 7 — 1 17 — 3 3 — 24s. llrf. r To 5 July, ^1 . -. -1 I From do. .^1. 4. J { To5 July, d?i.i7. '\ „ , From do. ^€'1.12. J 23s. 6i. 1 4 — 1 12 — 3 3 — 460 APPENDIX C. > ri bK Ci o S > ;4 K* (U e*. C &< O (1) f^ 3 0/ 'J Ph 1 O o Ph Cin o id CS eS 5/3 ci ■bJ ■4-) W ID o cS ts ^ ~ rt ,-, w en o n3 a; > O '^ a ;-< a > OJ P- U- o o .s o CJ ^-^ bfl o C) 0) a u ^ •r (S &H ^ s « s > ^ H CJ -b'^ c ■^ > "So II (5 '5^ 'S «s if tM 4J ■b> o 0^ o o ntly s of <£■§ 15 o -u D u o H l-H ^ p. 0) 'S CJ CS •■^^ C <1J Pt *S >% fl «s cu 0) •, (U > rO a; q=! St -b^ ■^ en ^^^ t>x 03 ,-M c c i o o 1—! TS br St: 2 ^0) •S t- cS ^ cS ,C! TS bC fl) ^-) 'Jl > ni is «*^ CS o fcX X3 t« " l-H Hi T-I C 't: E 1-^ (U m ^ coo 3 coo 3 ■c £ = = = c c c c S -f ?< c ■0 CtO t^ r5 00 C -M — IM C< — D to a M - 0, 1« 2 = = = _, c c .a © U = -N -N - >n « CO M OD C "^^IN n If a. "^ e< — ■* oi - - - _ 0000 s •^ = ? 2 = coco CO C X -o S if •n to CO In i5 (£ i^ « — to (D S 0000 £ = = c un c^ r: n f^ CO to I^ CO Tf C T> !N CO — C^ -I" 01 •^ »n CO -1 'f »i = = = o 000c ^ Oi e c N c^ t^ _ 0-. to a -T — n ^^ in ON CO ^ 0. "^ c* — ll* «J « § 2 5 = . 6p§.5-- ^ 000 000 m 0! -o m gn 2 " - 000 ~ 10 c => '0 c ^ c -i- in 00x0 ui in cr.-o ™ CS -•■0 l^-» ,^ 0- 1- "• 000 000 n « CO « rt CO TJ --« 1^ — 10 w s«s- t^ o> o> M a e T3 2 Jd X Cl ■•3 «J t^O — l^ U5 in T< « to eS O) -f o»< CO ^ '^ 'ii.^sgSS 000 -1« 000 in ^ 01 O) >o Jv. « to {« 0000 sT" •^ ff) «> o> U3 -W « isS m w in m w rt to X t^-* CO CO X ^ CO X Olio >o CT its CS -» t^ — Tf (O « CO *-* '^ =««■§« = = o~ 0000 a~ 10 a m I- t^ !>. 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I-j. i-O^ — ^ co^ r^ ©' cT CT to" X -1" to o — — ^ X^ 00^ "3^ ^ CT CTtC 1 " r^ X CT © — o c c < -§^9 aw s i3 o •S-2 r^ c 5< to — :r r^ r>.— ?: d — X « w w © ^ « CT CO oitc oou^rs'sOccco — !ri?5 COOrj.-.Ol-^.-POi.'StOCC^ 5 o Ol 5 i.-^ Ol -f ^ tc !>. t-* q6 ^ — « ^ — — ^ ocooi»>.«t>.ovcxcat>.M :2 « '-C — (N — OC (>. -P W Oi krt Oi :£ L-T (jT « M c si Qc o « n ^to . ■*«ko^ctc■»J'^s.to^>•«»ft, m c^ r^o c^ o co ^ ^ C^_^ CO ir? '^^ t>. (M ?1 ^^ (N C -^ ■CTi'tX^iCOirtfN^ > « t-^ (O C^ — ' tu^OCOXOOI^C^ ^01 — iN.eo©oo-.-»r (NC^C»l«C»C4«C«MC'ICOMeO« XXXQCXCCXCOXCOXXXX n f « (N r^ - n -0_rt o T -T rt ^ « — 1 iv.t-,te « ■'' » nx n u; 2 i! 2 I « ^ »c Oi^ c^ a) ^ o o o o 5tj ^ = 5* © . -^ « « CO ■* tn ^ W Oi-« — W O W OD •* In. Oi^ 0)« ©» C* « o> tS o» Oi f>* CO w X tc X o o>x -* CO rs. X oi CO X X c^ r>. c^ en <-^ © »>. t^ m CO lO "^ © 00 «0 CO -^ oi -^ -^ ^ CO '^ -^ W CI CO CO ^ K* lo r^-H . C^ CO C?l »ft -• [^ CO t>. '(J- to CV 5 to CO tC^ x ■^ t>. X to X ^ N M W (N CO ic t^ Ci © -v a © c^ i^ t^ '^ "^ ^ * rC -^ ift V CO uf ffT •* -(Ji X « Ol w © CO CO CO CO CO '^ *o -t ©1 li^ k.- o> I -^ Oi © © Oi X ^ X o*^>'0^lft -« o-.to © CI rs.to to CO <-" CO Ol CO o ©""W CD o t {ft Tl ^ O ■^ CO 5 ^ CO t^tc rC ■^ t>.cc to X ^ d m CI C4 CO r>. ©^ tc © o ch »>. to" ^ rt -^ cT n" -* -^ -^ X »o X C^ OS CO eo eo CO CO ■^ ^ ift to l-N, X Ci © — ' !> X X X X X ( APPENDIX F. 463 SPICES. An Account of the Quantities of the undermentioned Spices Imported into and Exported from the United Kingdom, and Cleared for Con- sumption, together with the Rates of Duty, and the Net Amount of Revenue in each Year, commencing 5th January, since 1820. NUTMEGS. Years. Quantities. Rates of Duty. Net Imported. Exported. Cleared for Consumption. British Pos- sessions. Foreign Possessions. Revenue. Per lb. Per lb. lbs. lbs lbs. s. d. s. d. £ 1820 91,192 114,277 90,771 2 6 3 6 11,212 1821 35,086 111,793 94,589 11,721 1822 45,568 55,863 112,096 14,000 1823 14,958 99,071 117,768 14,723 1824 83,438 101,185 129,702 16,177 1825 183,470 35,588 99,214 12,406 1826 338,702 79,579 101,117 12,624 1827 74,854 35,389 125,529 15,707 1828 58,685 32,518 140,002 17,514 1829 38,868 47,913 113,273 14,114 1830 247,912 163,045 121,260 15,158 1831 210,363 88,352 152,369 19,025 1832 1833 P IMENTO.* 1820 1,226,235 1,169,951 250,630 10 1 3 10,341 1821 2,636,666 2,808,453 250,689 10,453 1822 1,605,590 1,340,141 294,395 12,273 1823 2,394,793 1,743,887 293,223 12,218 1824 2,499,250 2,135,666 298,412 12,418 1825 1,594,080 1,354,086 303,055 5 7,502 1826 1,564,469 1,428,739 330,473 6,884 1827 2,235,350 2,005,252 319,667 6,619 1828 2,269,545 1,677,922 310,182 6,459 1829 3,599,268 2,732,493 339,013 7,064 1830 3,528,104 2,262,951 348,525 7,249 1831 1,810,616 1,815,537 304,400 6,375 1832 1833 * The duty on this staple of Jamaica produce ought to be entirely re- mitted, — it produces little to the revenue, while freedom from impost would in this, as in all other instances, be a great stimulus to industry and commerce. 464 APPENDIX F. CASSIA LIGNEA. Years. Quantities. Rates of Duty. Net Imported. Exported. Cleared for British Consumption. Possessions. Foreign Possessions. Revenue. lbs. Per lb. Per lb. lbs. lbs. *. d *. d. £ 1820 175,477 212,566 32,064 2 6 2 6 4,008 1821 308,960 338,910 31,721 — — 3,964 1822 272,868 375,722 33,581 — — 4,195 1823 277,066 260,568 32,622 — — 4,062 1824 639,188 559,651 42,797 — — 5,056 J 825 628,991 278,063 49,046 1 1 3,116 '182fi 533,948 347,784 43,182 — — 2,159 1827 415,702 427,695 42,984 — — 2,123 1828 549,535 356,320 55,787 — — 2,769 1829 817.968 795,242 62,252 6 — 2,101 1830 837,589 797,642 65,705 — — 1,624 1831 398,420 718,772 61,162 — — 1,526 1832 1833 CLOVES. 1820 8,428 143,776 36,554 2 3 3,657 1821 32,517 21,014 32,933 — — 3,285 1822 106,946 42,381 49,765 — — 5,027 1823 200,141 77.131 57,780 — — 5,748 1824 387,412 186,191 60,323 — — 6,035 1825 92,153 8,586 45,261 — — 4,543 1826 280,350 75,247 52,701 — — 5,279 1827 253,009 27,812 85,990 — — 8,602 1828 484,368 152,687 61,216 — — 6,149 1829 36,071 57,904 48,638 — — 4,876 1830 158,006 39,576 60,111 — — 6,061 1831 128,223 81,912 83,885 — — 8,374 1832 1833 CINNAMON. 1820 334,113 306,702 10,618 2 6 3 6 1,331 1821 417,635 298,538 12,002 — — 1,504 1822 121,630 304,441 14,507 — — 1,817 1823 900,799 418,356 14,225 — 1,767 1824 381,056 584,924 13,767 — — 1,724 1825 425,643 400,425 14,098 — 1,766 1826 156,485 344,404 14,155 — — 1,783 1827 1,267,444 359,692 14,351 ___ — 1,808 1828 337,483 354,536 15,696 — — 1,774 1829 544,225 386,108 29,720 1 6 1,342 1830 464,175 535,223 nil. ._ — 709 1831 225,869 504,643 23,172 — — 584 1832 1833 APPENDIX F. 465 GLXGER. Years. Quantities. Rates of Duty. \ Net Imported. Exported. Cleared for British Pos- Foreign Revenue. Consumption. 1 sessions. Possessions. Per Cwt. Per Cwt. Cwts. Cwts. Cwts. £ s. d. £ s. d. £ 1820 24,848 15,281 4,869 1 3 2 13 5,544 1821 15,253 15,036 ; 4,172 4,635 1822 5,111 3,028 5,930 6,829 1823 5,809 1&7 6,079 6,982 1824 5,128 344 7,002 8,074 1825 10,875 300 9,516 11 6 6,310 1826 20,417 2,815 13,405 7,626 1827 12,253 6,504 12,383 7,121 1828 14,600 6,930 7,374 4,335 1829 11.007 11,209 5,947 3,403 1830 5,491 4,575 6,284 3,560 1831 5,315 6,092 4,816 2,800 1832 1833 MACE. lbs. lbs. lbs. Per lb. Per lb. 1820 7,266 48,857 12,193 s. d. s. d. 2,174 1821 13,893 41,722 11,572 3 6 4 6 1,805 1822 16,837 37,458 13,498 2,361 1823 4,773 35,201 13,319 2,485 1824 28,739 32,871 16,879 2,967 1825 72,364 16,065 14,852 2,602 1826 118,975 51,079 15,600 2,720 1827 23,133 31,738 16,760 2,963 1828 42,134 37,783 16,094 2,829 1829 6,841 20,106 14,254 2,549 1830 15,789 14,596 12,600 2,205 1831 1832 1833 41,287 63,795 18,894 3,266 PEPPER. 1820 789,300 3,985,353 1,404,021 2 6 2 6 174,063 1821 852,038 1,630,968 1,256,532 156,206 1822 7,244,778 4,451,396 1,446,400 179,586 1823 6,137,993 .5,241,141 1,368,983 170,627 1824 8,818,697 2,926,857 1,447,030 180,816 1825 5,438,428 3,330,958 850,087 106,222 1826 14,091,799 5,329,525 2,529,027 1 \s.2dAs.M 126,517 1827 9,083,605 4,092,386 1,949,931 97,496 1828 4,987,630 4,226,031 1,927,718 96,468 1829 2,015,184 2,962,063 1,933,641 96,726 1830 2,816,598 1,488,238 2,009,154 100,492 1831 1832 1833 6,273,480 6,844,616 2,050,082 102,639 VOL. II, H H im APPENDIX F. An Account of the Imports, Exports, and Home Consumption of Rum, and oftlie Revenue collected thereon in each Vear, from 1814 to 1831 inclusive, with the Rates of Duty for the same period ; stated for the United Kingdom. Years. Quantity 'Quantity Quantity entered for Home Net Pro- duce of Rates of Duty, British Plantation Imported Exported Consumption. Duties. Rum. Imp. Gal. jimp. Gal. Imp. Proof Gal. £ Per Imperial Gallon, s. d. 1814 7240537 3271206 3703835 2513578 13 10 1815 5736372 297.5538 3365785 2240472 — 1816 3258598 2325935 2428950 1636386 — 1817 5332737} 2640062 2408311 1619425 — 1818 4580420 2633891 2631583 1775714 — 1819 5341494 1994974 2564883 1730446 13 lU 1820 5878415 31085.53 2489120 1684425 — 1821 5945738 26296.0 23iJ4315 1576377 — 1822 3544929 1.542133 2246839 1516645 — 1823 4069473 1550192 2349660 l.',90666 — 1824 4015554 1630919 2551646 1600827 12 7* 182.5 3286181 1241793 2095687 1278313 . — 1826 4010755 1187725 4305316 1817108 8 6 1827 4828954 1380517 3288606 1386726 — 1828 5297013 1598674 3277653 1382024 — 1829 5708558 1424512 3375866 1434782 — 1830 5569739 1344447 3658958 1600331 /to 15 June 8 6 \from 15 June 9 1831 6474769 2012405 3624597 1629881 9 1832 1833 An Account of the Imports, Exports, and Home Consumption of Molasses, and of the Revenue co.lected thereon, in each Year from 1814 to 1831 inclusive, with the Rates of Duty for the same period ; stated for the United Kingdom. Quantity Imported Quantity Exported Quantity entered Net Pro- Rates of Duty, Years. for Home Consumption. duce of Duties. (British Plantation Molasses.) Per cwt. cwts. cwts. cwts. ra s. d 1814 141227 24692 58829 21279 7 6i 1815 119381 34674 66407 24740 7 el 1816 1647 37876 50247 18465 7 6i 1817 7921 5599 19464 7328 7 6i 1818 31832 389 32618 12248 7 6i 1819 54919 2234 51187 21106 10 (from 5 July.) 1820 39990 6314 27895 13908 10 1821 58185 1795 57527 ■ 28549 10 1822 76298 749 78461 3927S 10 1823 189968 868 161351 80622 10 1824 239088 1750 239540 119739 10 1825 355592 883 332453 166254 10 1826 290504 5488 279748 139958 10 1827 392444 928 412665 206331 10 1828 510708 441 381761 190852 10 1829 394432 2312 386143 193072 10 1830 250648 4824 337587 159683 9 (from 5 July.) 1831 332875 655 348631 156883 9 18.32 1833 APPENDIX G. ^61 AN ACCOUNT of the Declared Value of the follouin«r Articles of British and Irish Produce and Manufacture, Exported from the United Kingdom to the British West Indies, in each Year, from 1814 to 1830, inclusive ; viz. Cottons, Linens, Woollens, Hardwares, Machinery and Manufactures of Metal, Grain, Provisions, Fish, &c. ; Clothing and Lumber.* Declared Value of the undermentioned Articles, Exported from the United Kingdom to the British West Indies. Hardwares, M oi E Macliinery Lumber; ^ 2 z tl and viz. u O a ^ Manufac- Grain, Clothing Hoops, Total ^ H 2 O tured Me- Provis- of all Staves of ilie o - O tals in ions, Sons and specified Geueral. Fisli,&c. made up. Headings. Articles. £ £ £ £ £ £■ £ £ 1814 2228970 929707 301966 511014 1153864 472737 184162 5782410 1815 2609232 968586 307712 6142S9 826007 486134 95788 5907748 1816 1206457 575517 177533 507333 6336841355106 70314 3525944 1817 2147042 598272 27S014 528763 770104! 396881 67295 4786371 1818 1899165 596964 284450 592778 867894 496610 76784 4814645 1819 1086945 523/35 250461 582620 775912 422861 81508 3724042 1820 1078931 562924 1 72598 414975 598567 376041 77838 3281874 1821 1320063 576897 177471 357818 564962 355392 69950 3422553 1822 872596 559392 177673 308713 444464 334814 48801 2746453 1823 1036674 552163 157022 316367 446555 370166 62906 2941853 1824 1108386 552427 151572 324797 i 497174 344149 61946 3040451 1125 1209350 527714 139122 348998 501296 348110 60542 3135132 1826 781412 401198 105515 363077 447401 319254 64775 2482632 1827 942846 479152 137001 340740 47382« 340676 692/6 2783519 1828 730850 412734 126262 395238 417808 330726 77180 2490798 1829 1050475 385303 119792 444139 ! 445057 327063 60479 2832308 1830 646466 325623 99888 361450 394610 279662 58727 2166426 1831 1832 1833 * This table shows how much our erroneous commercial policy has diminished the power of our colonies to purchase British manufactures ; by our past system we have not enriched ourselves, while we have made others poor indeed. 468 APPENDIX H. AVERAGE PRICES OF SUGARS. Year. Average Price. Weight of Cask. Duty. Gross. Charges includ- ing Duty. 1791 67 179^ 69 1793 70 1794! 54 1795177 1796;77 1797[8l • 1798 86 179975 1800 74 1801 1802 1803 1804 1805 1806 I8O7 1808 1809 1810 64 54 67 80 76 68 76 77 1811J67 I8I277 1813 92 1814 99 1815 99 1816 81 1817 81 1818 84 1819|70 182o'67 1821,61 1822159 182361 1824 1 59 182568 1826 . 1827 1828 . 1829 1830 1831 1832 1833 1834 d. 4 4 4 O 5 6 Cwt. 13 53 12i 13 141 S. 12 d. £. 4 43 .. j45 .. 45 15 035 50 50 17 19 20 24 26 27 27 43 52 49 68 58 8 60 50 47 44 43 43 s. 15 1 14 2 2 1 652 19 4I55 18 048 15 48 2 41 12 35 7 11 2 8 43 14 47 3 49 12 45 5 50 10 60 19 70 12 15 5 5 I 2 9 8 6 16 41 17 49 5 27 037 17 d.£ 4|l3 4|l3 4I15 0!l7 1(17 0|l7 6[19 021 0:21 0'21 022 5I22 022 026 0,26 027 3 25 6 25 1 2 7 2 8 6 11 10 11 2 8 3 11 7 28 26 29 30 29 27 25 -27 26 25 25 25 25 25 25 26 s, d 10 10 10 10 16 4 11 17 17 16 15 15 2 2 2 6 19 6 9 6 2 16 15 15 19 £. 30 31 29 9 11 11 32 32 33 34 26 26 10 10 8 11 6 17 23 31 39 38 16 23 s. 4 10 IS 17 11 4 3 3 17 19 6 19 10 13 5 21 9 25 15 22 8 16 8 21 13 24 6 2 13 8 16 17 30 10 15 17 15 9 1 3 9J23 19 8 1 1 122 1 15 I0il9 2 6,32 15 4 '33 717 11 61I8 17 6 11 14 d. 6 6 O 7 6 8 6 6 O 5 6 6 6 6 1 2 4 11 3 2 O 7 1 o 4 1 9 4 5 APPENDIX I. 469 Return of the Shipping-, Foreign and British, employed in the Trade with the British West India Islands, from 1820 to 1830, both inclusive, dis- tinguishing each Year. UNITED KINGDOM. Years. Ships, Tonnage. Ships. Tonnage. 1820 857 240,510 831 233,486 1821 884 245,321 891 246,180 1822 839 232,426 743 208,099 1823 861 233,790 842 232,717 1824 899 244,971 848 233,097 1825 872 232,357 801 219,431 1826 891 243,448 907 251,852 1827 872 243,721 906 248,598 1828 1,013 272,800 1,022 270,495 1829 958 263,338 918 252,992 1830 911 253,872 868 240,664 1831 1832 1833 * Note to page 468. Rates of Tares allowed on West India Sugar imported into Great Britain. From Jamaica, Grenada, Tobago, St. Vincent, and St. Kitt's. Cwt. qrs. lbs. Hogsheads, from 8 to 12 cwt. - - - 1 7 From 12 to 15 - - - 1 1 12 From 15 to 17 - - - 1 2- From 17 and upwards - - - 1 2 14 From Dominica, Antigua, Nevis, Montsenat, and Trinidad. Hogsheads, from 8 to 12 cwt. From 12 to 15 From 15 to 17 From 17 and upwards 470 APPENDIX K. Jamaica.* — Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreififn Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No- Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. No- Tons. No. Tons. Men. 1822 271 79,925 179 24,007 33 4,583 354 24,233 837 132,748 8,678 1823 322 97,597 136 16,.349 266 30,867 277 18,375 1,001 163,188 10,087 1824 258 79,219 143 16,183 263 36,785 248 17,385 912 149,572 9,050 1825 274 84,740 105 12,557 179 24,866 218 15,874 776 138,037 8,404 1826 1827 1828 300 93,087 145 23,043 248 21,056 693 137,186 8.177 1829 240 75,541 166 22,974 269 25,687 674 124,202 7.948 1830 263 68,700 172 25,491 280 25,530 715 120,721 1831 1832 1833 1834 i Outwards • Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. So. Tons. Men. 1822 310 96,193 161 22,241 33 3,986 373' 29,190 875 161,610 9,408 1823 274 86,825 131 15,0.38 219 25,548'309 23,942 933 151,363 9,369 1824 .301 92,779 141 15,062'260 35,636 238 17,646 940 161,111 9,563 1825 253 78,588 117 13,260 162 22,182 232 17,614 764 131,644 7,899 1826 1827 1828 277 86,532 138 19,959 286 28,610 700 136,101 8.010 1829 287!87,729 146 18,205 256 24,464 688 130,388 6,993 1830 29087,480 154 21,766 256 21,501 699 130,747 1831 1832 1833 1834 * Our statistical returns from Jamaica, as observed under the head of population in the Jamaica chapter, are extremely deficient. I give the above mutilated table, as I do many others in this work, in order to pro- mote greater attention to the subject in future; it is only by means of accurate and full returns that legislation can be wisely performed, more especially in reference to commerce, where so much depends on just analytical comparisons. ., Al'PENEIX L. 471 Abstract of the latest Returns received from each of His Majesty's Slave Colonies of the Slave Population, distinguishing the Sexes. Males. Fe- males. Total. Date to which the Returns have been made up. When received in the Rcijistry Office. Jamaica ... 158254 164167 322421 28 June, 1829 18 Dec. 1830. Barbadoes 37691 44211 81902 For 1829. 18 Mar. 1830. Demerara 37141 32326 69467 31 May, 1829. Ditto 1830. Berbice - - - 11284 10035 21319 1 Jan. 1828. 15 Dec. 1828. Antigua - - - 14066 15773 29839 For 1828. 13 April, 1829. Montserrat 2867 3395 6262 Ditto 1828. 8 June, 1829. Bahamas 4608 4660 9268 1 Jan. 1828. 8 Nov. 1830. Dominica 7362 8030 15392 For 1826. 15 Dec. 1828. Grenada ... 11711 12434 24145 31 Dec. 1829. i8 Feb. 1831. St. Christopher 9198 10112 19310 I Jan. 1828, 23 Sept. 1829. Nevis ... 4574 4685 9259 For 1828. 21 Nov. 1828. Virgin Islands - 2510 2889 5399 Ditto 1828. 21 July, 1830. St. Lucia 6280 7381 13661 Ditto 1828. 10 Dec. 1829. St. Vincent - 11583 12006 23589 31 Dec. 1827. 6 June, 1829. Tobago - - . 5872 6684 12556 1 Jan. 1830. 11 Dec. 1830. Trinidad 13141 10865 24006 31 Jan. 1828. Ditto 1830. Total West Indies - 338142 349653 687795 Bermuda 2208 2400 4608 For 1827. 24 Nov. 1827. Mauritius 47657 29117 76774 Ditto 1826. 18 Feb. 1829. Cape of Good Hope 21210 14299 35509 Ditto 1825. I Oct. 1825. Total - 409217 395469 804686 472 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND - IMPORTS.— In Value sterling. From British Colonies. Year. Great West North 1 Else- United Foreign Total. Britain. Indies. America. where. States. States. £ £ £ £ £ 1 £ £ 1822 544210 43963 48877 10284 2162l' 24224 693180 1823 608815 56051 109020 23714 166741 36318 998659 1824 389426 39225 73242 I7I68 203710 65372 788143 1825 353246 81950 89787 5542 143181 54846 728552 1826 381127 197075 84443 6804 313327 16453 999231 1827 219971 30528 69332 2675 5643 4S717 376866 1830 203417 71869 369120 1831 1832 1833 i EXPORTS.— In Value sterling British Colonies. ^ To Y ear. Great West North Else- United Foreign Total. Britain. Indies. America. where. States. States. £ £ £ £ 1 £ 1 £ £ 1822 447544 184914 1454 1372 12847 648131 1823 655480 348325 9516 . . 24446 26477 1064244 1824 649832137377 5710 16891! 36114 845924 1825 670109|144517 10379 . . 1829 32618 859452 1826 846646,423199 8802 . . 11545 17696 13078b9 1827 422798 120951 2260 56342 11016 557423 1830 624734 1831 1832 1833 These official returns from eachW. I. possession are given by the author, at considerable expense, in order to leave nothing to make this volume the most complete and ample work that has ever appeared on the British West India Colonies. The years left blank are for the purpose of being filled APPENDIX M. 47f EXPORTS OF BARBADOES. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great Britain. No. 70 95 89 91 79 90 77 Tons 18000 23932 22338 24072 19542 22021 19406 British Colonies. No. 209 283 197 217 288 236 289 Tons 17279 20108 12547 13034 19694 18878 23532 United States. 'Foreign States No. Tons. No. 14 1000 48 113 12629 54 117 14963 57 88 11016 61 120 15713 39 8 949 125' Tons. 4000 3573 3541 5046 2724 8023 No. 170. Tons 10,994. Total. No. Tons. 341 40279 545 60242 460 53299 457 52168 526 57673 475 50776 536 53932 Men. 2849 4084 3476 3818 3916 3797 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great Britain. No. Tons 38 11620 74 61 74 60 46 74 19420 15594 19025 15699 13042 19580 British Colonies. No 248 267 247 262 357 312 367 Tons 24602 22356 20085 21963 29260 26768 30S23 United States. Foreij^n States No. Tons. 1 No. 13 2200 32 66 7191 37 87 10936 61 68 8661 48 91 12754 26 — — 82 Tons. 2500 2484 4181 3.534 2019 5842 No. 103. Tons 6,742 Total. No. Tons. 331 40922 444 51451 456 50907 452 53] 63 534 59752 440 45652 544 56345 Men. 2849 3380 3501 3676 3900 976 up from time to time, as returns arrive from abroad. The most careles* observer cannot but be convinced of the vahic of ouii' colonies, wheu he sees the extensive trade which is carried on by the very smallest of theuj. 474 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS.— Value sterlinjr. From British Colonies. lear. Great West North Else- United 'Foreign Total. Britain. Indies. America. where. States. States. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 43500 2400 49322 . . 19733 65009 179964 1823 50000 17568 20009 1143 51584 11897 1.52201 1824 50000 25779 21241 . . 71530 8134 176784 1825 20173' 21702 11530 81916 3819 139140 1826 Returns not received 1827 NotAscer- 28865 , , 46936 75801 1828 tained. ai£^-^i 41671 , ^ . , 58789 10046O 1829 8104 17485 . . , . 62131 87720 1830 10895 12569 1000 1116 36737 62317 EXPORTS.- Value sterling. To British Colonies. \ear. Great West North Else- United Foreign Total. Britain. Indies. America. where. States. States. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 154403 7000 16398 648 2039 11824 191664 1823 2159.50 13697 7313 1234 18787 4993 261388 1824 304423 19754 7248 3552 28336 4435 365430 1825 37073021241 11443 52216 2895 462077 1826 1827 108464,27537 I6I73 152174 1828 467124 38397 25772 530293 1829 278202 28678 18548 933 22405 348766 1830 197859 17981 14491 9S3 8774 220088 APPENDIX M. 475 EXPORTS OF ANTIGUA. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great Britain. No. 29 40 47 50 42 25- 69 50 37 Tons. No. 6907119 9272 142 10787117 11190116 12043 162 5410 124 13661 172 11309 157 8381jl48 Tons. No. 7117 19 7400 70 7448 82 6423 81 9790 6832 10534 11101 9919 Tons. 2064 6988 9252 9615 Foreii ^nStates Total No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 172 7853 339 23941 1908 40 1321 292 249S1 1777 44 1705 290 21192 1889 21 1077 268 28305 1824 144 11656 348 33494 2507 281 9426 434 21668 , . 276 10116 517 34311 , , 281 10804 488 33214 2937 164 6878 349 25208 2050 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Total. No. 22 35 48 43 48 20 50 47 45 Tons. 5413 7878 11096 9520 11230 4753 10349 9968 10576 No. 137 140 12] 113 240 131 181 195 157 Tons. 10527 8515 8031 6985 11748 7644 9657 11918 9085 No. 14 68 82 71 1 Tons 1359 6738 9032 9353 256 No- 1.53 37 34 17 91 271 235 259 156 Tons. 7288 1257 1510 798 9713 9592 9080 11176 6373 No. 326 280 285 244 379 422 466 501 361 Tons. 24587 24388 29669 25656 32691 21989 29086 33062 26290 Men. 1883 1668 1780 1575 2614 2786 2084 476 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS—Value sterliusr. From Great Britain. British Colonies. 1 Year. West North Indies. America. Else- where. United States. Foreign States. Total. £ £ £ £ £ £ £. 1822 7000 3000 4500 716 3000 18215 1827 345 3385 995 2795 7520 1830 4998 9361 1185 2237 17781 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. To Great Britain. British Colonies. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. United Foreign States. States. Total. 1822 1827 1830 £ 36000 'zgooo 23835 £ 400 10/5 1650 £ 1200 742 2565 £ £ £ 4000 2950 1679 £ 4120O 34667 29729 APPENDIX M. 477 EXPORTS OF MONTSERRAT. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons No Tons. No. Tons. Men. 5 1254 27 972 1 60 14 531 46 2807 239 7 1773 56 2223 21 1135 84 5131 438 6 13'24 49 1921 39 1237 94 4482 447 4 85<2 78 3865 28 1107 110 5824 579 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 5 1162 22 1381 20 707 47 3250 274 6 1465 38 1680 26 1174 70 4319 377 6 1210 27 1161 23 875 56 3246 283 5 1237 81 4060 33 1279 119 6576 648 478 APPENDIX M. IINIPORTS AND - ■ " " IMPORTS.— Value sterling. Year. From Great British Colonies. Britain. West North Else- United Foreign] Total Indies. America where. States. States. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 70500 11700 1900 58300 4700 25400 172500 1823 172666 7388 1022 376 25 31698 39522 251975 1824 204166 25676 1897 32615 25421 46958 339142 1825 202416 20374 3272 30335 21529 24952 302878 1826 204166 20120 2123 28583 47779 49301 352074 1827 120400 15638 16142 27587 12631 34986 231384 1828 132915 18898 5050 97962 . 86875 338700 1829 36774 1 9236 3713 10531 42 26851 97150 1830 69480 23539 17144 3047 22674 1709 23797 137853 1831 29853 38169 91561 EXPORTS.— Value sterling-. To British Colonies. Great Britain. Year. West North Else- United Foreign Total. Indies. America. where. States. States. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 40100 18700 4700 13300 120800 2 17 600 1823 26524 19977 2522 38494130141 317659 1824 32083 , 6919 5541 510 27183245169 317407 1825 30333 9960 4772 25387 163393 233845 1826 23333 5718 1597 14193 88778 145305 1827 28328 4319 1 8636 2166 75944 129393 1828 24803 ' 21329 7720 18383 51111 122472 1829 21222 1 15153 3222 22222 151.57 76977 1830 15488 12155 8859 2419 1375 13249 8768 50158 1831 1 1 0046 52 157 74658 APPENDIX M. 479 EXPORTS OF BAHAMAS. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States- States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 10 1616 29 1929 7 440 76 3062 122 7047 705 1^ 2365 2;) 2558 308 41935 75 4044 424 50902 2133 11 2253 55 5460 193 19351 45 2428 304 29492 1715 14 2474 84 9986 69 5445 169 16351 335 34256 1657 8 1750 20 1186 57 2354 56 3071 141 8369 839 7 1647 38 2484 16 1001 73 3303 134 8435 713 8 1704 94 8554 227 34457 100 7674 429 52389 2516 10 18G9 110 7799 23 3491 307 34787 450 47946 2645 10 2075 2033 107 174 7948 17827 SO 3150 161 11429 308 466 24.507 48765 1879 11 No .281 Tons, 28905 EXPORTS . — Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 14 2299 51 4176 262 92660 95 5130 422 104265 2235 13 2470 38 3009 301 41677 85 3800 437 50956 2131 10 1898 62 5899 221 23361 61 2779 354 34941 1965 9 1816 52 3360 213 25932 59 2901 399 38559 1872 10 1940 52 3534 183 21498 65 3632 310 30604 1875 8 1740 37 3023 19 949 63 3640 127 9352 765 11 20S2 108 8821 234 35275 91 .5951 444 52129 2531 8 1629 113 8630 246 33042 88 5677 455 48978 2830 8 1765 2054 105 92 7742 7178 95 10513 85 4681 293 499 24701 54264 1799 12 No .395. ' Pons, 45032 480 APPENDIX ]\r. IMPORTS AND - IMPORTS.— Value sterling. From British Colonies. Great Britain. West North Else- United Foreiffn Total. Indies. America. where. States. States. ^ ^ £ £ £ £ £ 18'2'2 352080 29736 28676 18687 11714 14676 455576 is-zs 406719 16174 95046 17293 44415 1382 580929 1824 468646 13381 98834 . ^ 62283 20490 663634 1826 431155 21662 36516 44964 16448 550747 1827 533819 24361 136683 . . 48599 743462 1828 505504 22781 147222 674 33624 709805 1829 586998 245riO 139150 3179 50521 804408 1830 542107 436527 2162S 125168 •• 541 45084 734528 1831 35613 55( J94 527831 EXPORTS.— Value slerlinir. 1 I To - Great British Colonies. Year. West North Else- United Foreign Total. Britain. Indies. America. where. States. States. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 1185267 12210 40414 3993 171351 1413235 1823 1234482 7094 34202 .. I 15387 91676 1382841 1824 1243563 11912 41472 30286 87585 1414818 1826 1026732 34769 28013 •• 1 17596 98257 1205369 1827 1684850 50673 48107 • • 111991 1895621 1828 1544533 42693 38723 1682 110712 3097 1641440 1829 1649318 41812 43255 6281 .. 143399 1884065 1830 1707605 1411539! 51317 69667 101027 . . 6088 1835704 1831 90416 53 987 1.536142 APPENDIX M. 481 EXPORTS OF DEMERARA. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. , , Returns not received 155 44254 146 14081 46 6748 23 3493 370 68576 3946 128 37037 141 15017 68 10272 28 3236 365 65562 3650 145 42442 176 16280 58 8973 33 3044 412 70739 4078 177 49964 250 28540 90 7941 517 86445 ^ 179 51318 288 27037 70 6722 537 85077 5157 184 53356 299 30266 1 245 105 8938 589 92805 5540 169 50438 54080 319 323 31632 27498 •• •• 79 7170 567 601 89240 89760 5230 190 Nc ). 88. T ons 8 182. EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 167 45844 144 12639 39 5406 18 3476 368 67365 3667 155 43148 168 14338 50 7549 22 2972 395 68007 3952 145 41701 201 16789 42 6498 17 2537 405 67525 3708 196 55917 321 25925 . . 25 4446 542 86288 5065 196 55249 331 26504 14 3572 541 85325 5094 212 57870 355 30388 26 4932 593 93190 5525 192 64858 52412 379 336 35872 27950 1 96 23 3697 595 563 94523 85967 5600 188 N 0. 39. T ons 5 605. VOL II. I I 482 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS, British Colonies. From Great United States. Foreign States. Year. Total. Britain. West Indies. North America. Else- where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ IS'22 54213 15390 12906 1515 2862 5712 9259S 1823 66773 9013 13813 121 1205 4837 95762 1824 61292 8642 10531 . . 10514 2618 93597 1826 84000 18500 9000 . . 5300 650 117650 1827 58285 34542 15377 , . 5665 113869 1828 71500 27000 25000 45 , . 8000 131545 1829 77500 110450 26202 17707 2517 '• 7852 131778 1831 40811 9916 161177 EXPORTS. British Colonies. To Great United States. Foreign Stated. Year. Total,, Britain. West Indies, North America. Else- where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 257919 19110 4950 5932 931 82189 289031 1823 185910 33375 5439 385 49112 274221 1824 180256 15678 4037 5447 35552 240970 1826 152600 36700 9000 3000 26000 227300 1827 222428 31457 9771 34489 298145 1828 239350 41800 15427 23220 319797 1829 184736 235242 53875 14137 30120 282868 1831 65080 23 515 S23837 APPENDIX M. 483 EXPORTS OF BERBICE. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreion - Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 25 5300 162 8636 3 371 14 1684 204 15991 1089 31 6532 144 7381 2 220 3 1128 181 15261 1008 29 6816 133 6192 13 1972 6 1222 181 16204 1123 25 6303 158 7426 6 1114 1 270 190 15113 1057 33 8170 168 9475 17 1272 218 18917 1145 28 7105 189 11438 . . 12 1190 229 19733 1366 26 6863 8927 179 194 10894 10665 •• 16 1404 221 242 19161 21208 1338 34 N( ). U. T ons 1 616. EXPORTS,— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign - Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Meir. 31 6691 168 9075 3 421 17, 1806 219 17993 1191 26 5363 83 4448 1 113 15 1457 125 11381 770 31 7139 150 6931 8 1582 4 1122 193 16774 1196 20 5156 182 10553 4 645 4 1004 58 17358 1245 31 7543 149 8595 • • • • » • • . 3 758 183 16896 1124 27 6996 216 13279 • • • • • • • • 7i 985 250 21260 1489 25 6230 7737 206 210 12168 11304 .... 8 1032 239 246 19430 20128 1375 30 ^ ^. 6. T ons 1087- 4^ APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS. From Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. 1827 1828 1829 1830 34300 32175 30198 16316 56118 £ 20900 8987 33863 20346 £ 8192 9354 £ £ £ 11100 32152 12927 12953 1831 16563 2154 Total. £ 66300 81506 86343 49615 81835 EXPORTS. To Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. Total. 1827 1828 1829 1830 £ 109400 141075 115481 135572 104545 £ 5800 3994 2149 8375 • • 7848 6392 • • £ • • £ £ 600 1604 931 2015 £ 115800 154522 118561 145962 1831 10364 38 52 118761 APPENDIX M. 485 EXPORTS OF DOMINICA. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 9 2153 60 3197 .. 1 79 3588 148 8938 12 3116 73 3794 .. 107 4548 192 11458 1169 9 1988 80 4398 , , .. 126 5214 215 11600 1275 7 1632 3367 86 81 4448 4175 •• .. 131 5111 224 214 11191 11709 •• 14 No. 119. Tons 4167. • • EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 11 2658 84 4472 . , 49 1493 144 8623 , , 16 3892 89 4825 81 2774 186 11491 1125 14 3529 102 5229 89 2415 205 11203 1231 15 3599 3316 110 110 5578 5187 •• •. 106 3250 231 213 12427 11256 • • 14 No 89. Tons 2753. • • 486 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND LMPORTS.— Value sterling. British Colonies. To Great Britain. United States. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1823 3404 232/0 39302 29369 9261 104608 1824 766 39175 37893 27741 11021 116596 1825 11682 46951 26834 55737 2481 143685 1826 6387 3963 18355 39412 4090 107874 1827 7920 ifc*54943 , , 20252 83116 1828 7522 18934 37166 22240 85863 1829 16088 26133 92341 29748 164313 1830 3076 8511 53342 •• •• 16232 72652 1831 56668 13 791 79000 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. British Colonies. To Great Britain. United States. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ ' £ £ £ 182a 380914 11698 30527 26080 6092 455312 1824 302715 7094 27050 15234 7220 359313 1825. 266418 23715 25090 19008 3805 3371 16 1826 238908 229751 21864 17846 2648 349-241 1827 289744 50869 , , 7292 34 7 906 1828 504930 12713 31506 8537 557689 1829 310393 15S02 25575 ^ , 7656 359427 1830 214420 182410 45143 • •• 3700 263264 1831 31291 46 49 218350 APPENDIX M. 48T EXPORTS OF GRENADA. LAIPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 44 13750 79 6935 43 5219 21 1214 187 27136 1609 28 S346 83 7043 37 4273 14 954 162 20616 1263 40 11812 82 5826 40 4572 8 522 J 70 22732 1443 30 9033 132 8555 37 5227 31 1133 230 23948 1717 38 11538 11525 16338 1796 11473 154 166 186 211 218 10214 11367 13240 13893 13556 95 77 100 73 5760 4426 6203 3868 287 286 342 310 308 27509 27318 35781 25557 28883 43 2085 56 2623 26 .... .... 40 No. 50. T ons 3 854. EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great Britain. No. 41 37 37 39 33 48 48 35 Tons. 12457 11469 10798 11237 10514 13985 14120 11707 10116 British Colonies. No. 76 55 70 129 186 178 233 235 Tons. 6766 5225 5372 7957 12154 10383 15409 15313 United States. No. 41 31 31 28 Tons. 4663 3350 3313 3511 Foreign States. No. 27 18 13 15 63 Tons. 1529 1095 659 609 3438 62 3700 77 5885 57 13624 229 1 13286 iNo. 46. Tons 4,003. Total. No. Tons. 185 25415 141 21139 J5l 20142 211 23314 282 26096 288 28068 358 35414 332 30671 310 27435 Men. 1561 1250 1293 2178 2189 2634 488 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND - IMPORTS.— Value sterling. From Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. Total. 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 £ 235335 244131 303882 271209 185929 209199 193692 £ 8486 18806 54648 21610 16708 28154 4015 £ 97 628 1894 2311 . G £ 19100 24877 28892 10180 £ 65 1917 25303 20053 33999 4800 26492 £ 262988 289871 412727 313502 233756 234379 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. To Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. Total. 1824 1825 1826 1827 1828 1829 1830 1831 £ 218.^)22 232052 283076 374394 219798 219662 195192 £ 4212 3280 4724 8439 10897 7800 3589 £ 75 2150 £ 29578 £ 50068 58883 32826 16184 £ 22 819 164 9148 70650 27820 102186 £ 272826 295111 350370 394132 301255 255282 316151 APPENDIX M. 489 EXPORTS OF HONDURAS. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Total Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Ton No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 50 12721 6 519 20 2514 1 33 77 15787 866 27 7005 14 1641 20 2123 14 2744 75 13513 806 49 12084 14 1908 30 3977 6 863 99 18832 1065 60 16400 9 1195 . . , . 23 1436 92 19041 1095 4S 11282 7 849 . . . 29 2256 79 14387 872 37 9588 16 4357 . . 6 801 59 14746 860 39 10035 8 497 18 2036 12 1350 77 13918 814 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Britain. Colonies. States. States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons, No. Tons. Men. 55 14032 7 576 23 2665 1 33 86 17306 974 49 12813 6 387 22 2682 5 245 82 16127 907 50 12585 11 888 34 4464 3 442 98 18379 1002 58 15530 6 633 , , , . 19 1502 83 17665 1023 44 12225 6 361 . . 25 2452 75 14038 868 41 10803 6 522 8 1275 55 12700 689 43 11053 5 305 7 1194 27 3799 82 16351 798 •190 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS— Value sterling. British Colonies. From Great Britain. United Stales. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1824 .5382 3647 . . 10304 8728 2806 1 1825 66984 3706 1443 , , 21700 3604 94737 1828 2602 30071 7490 . . 40395 80559 1829 1901 17329 4876 35412 59520 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. To Great Britain. British Colonies. TTnifoH 'Crv ../>;. vr. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. States. XUIClgli States. Total. 1824 1825 1828 1829 £ 142623 102642 112108 127568 £ 3473 3238 8323 11108 £ 2291 1228 2674 7262 £ £ 9375 5850 £ 4162 4748 5173 3621 £ 161924 117706 128278 149560 APPENDIX M. 491 - EXPORTS OF ST. CHRISTOPHER. IIVIPORTS.— Ships Inwards. . Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 27 5979 9 708 15 1766 62 2083 113 10536 761 20 5739 95 2380 20 2503 60 1421 195 12043^1173 27 6882 245 9934 320 ^831 |592 26647j2835 28 7400 211 1079S 317 10954 556 291522810 1 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons No. Tons. No. Tons. Men> 24 6702 16 914 21 2562 59 1750 120 11928 866 17 4368 101 4711 20 2374 48 1176 186 12629 1057 24 6213 293 11067 . . 279 8741 596 26021 2918 26 6590 234 12108 • • 262 8983 522 27681 2833 492 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS.— Value sterling. From Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. Total. 1824 1825 £ 17585 £ 818 240 £ 1122 625 £ • • • • • t • • £ 9747 17034 £ 3731 4185 £ 15419 50650 EXPORTS.- Value sterling. To Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. Total. 1824 1825 39815 62645 6025 12789 £ 683 2074 £ 4986 7996 £ 2190 2788 £ 53699 88293 APPENDIX M. 493 EXPORTS OF NEVIS. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 9 2274 11 448 17 1862 20 950 57 5524 362 1382 81 3937 21 2511 21 1044 131 8874 784 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 9 1939 31 905 17 1671 19 836 76 5351 433 9 2392 82 3038 19 2135 19 845 129 8410 767 404 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND - IMPORTS.— Value sterlinsr. British Colonies. From United States. Foreign States. Year. Great Britain. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 182'2 5,917 3279 , , , , 2796 4548 13745 1823 5,917 3279 2796 4548 13745 18'24 4,000 8754 . . . . 780 1794 15328 1825 1/200 44 1032 2806 5080 EXPORTS.— Value stcrlinff. To Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreij^n States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 45358 4520 • • • • . . • • 420 884 51182 1823 4.5358 4520 , , , , .... 420 884 5 1 1 82 1824 1S137 405 . • • • .... 353 543 19438 1825 101S5 616 .... 81 899 20781 APPENDIX M. 495 EXPORTS OF TORTOLA. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great Britisli United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons . No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 6 1265 21 559 2 290 58 879 87 2993 745 6 1265 21 559 2 290 58 879 87 2993 745 6 1521 12 882 2 205 35 1047 55 4655 334 3 688 22 619 3 427 57 952 85 2666 418 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 5 1096 5 164 1 105 14 245 25 1610 132 5 1096 5 164 1 105 14 245 25 1610 132 6 1521 18 1324 2 205 33 1059 59 4109 363 4 943 13 284 2 329 62 nil 81 2667 315 496 APPENDIX M. liNIPORTS AND - IMPORTS.— In Value sterlinff . British Colonies. From Great Britain. United States. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 47491 10377 10417 7512 6765 4393 86957 1823 51339 15985 6932 4708 14271 2175 95414 1828 43472 26507 13604 14222 97807 1829 57187 33261 10397 • • • • 15864 116710 1830 68803 13853 22284 3979 •• •• 36642 212516 1831 34109 16916 64878 EXPORTS.— In Value sterling British Colon les. To Great Britain. United States. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 91616 20844 , , , , 164S .... 114104 1823 66081 6530 5510 7831 210 86164 1828 111238 6317 9240 .... 3532 130329 1829 100918 9211 5933 . • . • 2882 118946 1830 104231 51867 10077 6647 .... .... 5653 126610 1831 1( >646 14^ 190 83003 APPENDIX M. 497 EXPORTS OF ST. LUCIA. LAIPORTS.— Sliips Inwards. Great Britain. British Colonies. i United States. Foreij^n States. Total. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. II 28931 ro 5654 6 733 23 nil 110 10391 831 11 2039 55 3622 25 2843 • • . • .... 91 8504 638 21 4657 120 6328 . . . . .... 251 6764 392 17749 2434 24 .5364 142 7325 • • . • .... 259 8255 425 20944 2639 24 5364 132 3972 165 i 5365 6187 .... .... 262 7829 418 466 20558 20382 2634 18 No 283, T ons, 1 0,233. EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 18 4226 573802 5 635 34 1862 114 10.525 844 16 3264 673961 30 3199 7 120 120 10748 854 24 4G57 107 5988 .... 237 6441 368 ;7086 2339 22 52G8 4528 117 7052 188:7973 1 "" — 290 8845 429 467 21165 20839 2207 20 No . 259, T ons, { 3,338. VOL. II. K K tv9 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS.— Value sterling. Year, From Great Britain. British Colonies. West Indies. North America. Else- where. United States. Foreign Total. states. 1824 18"-2r 1898 1899 1830 99600 101100 89235 87137 84513 57135 18400 1 6000 38158 17476 31161 25088 £ 34800 29000 37758 45430 41706 43282 500 2500 31900 £ £ 10000 i.^ssoo lliool 189600 22612 187764 28092: 178135 27922 185303 22801 148307 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. To British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Year. Great Britain. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 410800 8200 22O0O • • • • 1100 12900 455000 1824 372500 14600 J 6200 1200 14000 5600 424100 1827 426829 2S474 19529 . . • . 6804 481637 1828| 733506 20171 13S889 • • • • 5369 897935 1829, 4:^3964 23901 22389 « • . • 1323 481579 1830 263347 37564 34597 .... 2536 338045 APPENDIX M. 499 EXPORTS OF ST. VINCENT. IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons, No. Tons. No. Tons . No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 38 8644 107 10086 6 794 49 2270 200 21794 1440 56 15066 88 7266 42 4923 43 4923 229 29220 1890 61 16070 150 12852 . . , , 114 5528 325 34450 — .59 15711 149 167141 160 8531 368 40956 2492 59 16.520 210 150571 125 6104 394 37681 2872 36 10346 245 16427 104 5532 385 32295 2775 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons, Men. 51 13565 97 6597 5 597 68 3678 221 24413 1807 49 12450 92 6505 42 4993 49 2756 232 26644 1794 54 14238 163 12291 .... .... 116 5605 333 32134 .... 58 16906 207 13037 • • • • .... 144 6243 409 36186 2980 51 14081 255 16726 .... .... 114 6821 420 37628 2982 45 12732 292 17735 .. . . .... 91 3588 328 34055 2763 5oa APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS.— Value sterling. From Great Britain. British Colonies. Year. West Indies. North America. Else- where. United States. Foreign States. Total. £ £ £ £ £ £ £. 1822 170603 11530 32173 4344 8836 18605 246092 1823 277322 12860 241.53 .5715 26564 4480 351095 1824 203312 9559 19868 11852 33145 8012 285750 1826 297293 3661,403 .... 101467 460163 1827 287178 24955 36584 525 79607 428849 1828 326285 11895 36906 .... 72023 447109 1829 316106 13587 38289 .... 66848 434830 1830 152818 182856 13099 29620 1110 53908 250555 1831 51197 65514 300567 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. British Colon es. From Great United Foreign Year. Total. Britain. West North Else- States. States. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 238095 4012 23941 28660 2994 1852 299558 1823 265881 3319 15326 57551 17425 3461 362965 1824 261437 4325' 18965 60167 19639 623 365197 1826 327332 ^36194 . . ^•89788 453314 1827 352912 10764 30099 43762 , , 11276 448813 1828 416521 11057 20279 4694 26319 478870 1829 401965 9548 23064 4245 , ^ 12774 451628 1830 167657 202057 9178 14769 •• •• 7478 199082 1831 ^30628 IH )07 244392 APPENDIX M. '^m. EXPORTS OF TRINIDAD. IMPORTS— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Tntal Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 40 9421 175 13614 12 1788 50 3308 277 28131 2238 74 16375 172 10577 51 6583 45 2446 275 359S1 2909 Returns not received. 7'7 18305 151 10532 • • 214 19399 442 210236 4212 83 18697 185 11845 158 11043 426 41585 — 102 22364 151 12884 176 11371 429 46619 — 99 24333 179 1705S 206 14324 484 55715 — 59 13865 21611 174 189 13681 14860 148 10619 381 380 38165 48787 — 88 No 103. Tons, 9136 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 58 12812 169 12184 9 1354 43 2296 279 28646 2448 68 15958 174 10694 50 6613 43 2430 335 35695 2836 Returns not received. 76 16920 167 1039 178 17368 421 44327 — 87 19823 217 15139 124 11380 428 46342 — 109 23928 218 15986 102 8435 429 48349 — 101 23804 245 19171 135 11104 481 54079 — 71 17755 216 17191 123 10235 410 45181 — — 502 APPENDIX M. IMPORTS AND IMPORTS.— Value sterling. British Colonies. From Great Britain. United States. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 25000 13000 31500 • 1 • • 850 5000 75350 1823 40686 10644 5337 • • • • 5745 11007 73419 1824 40642 9593 7936 • • • • 12771 1936 72878 1825 41224 9029 9706 , , , , 12471 2374 74804 1826 42136 12055 1190G . • . • 14472 2174 81293 1827 50563 32014 42426 1196 .... 6108 132307 1828 52871 16391 20678 , . . , .... 9991 99932 1829 62479 16574 15881 . • . • .... 13256 108192 1830 40963 54.530 123.52 11969 .... .... 11827 77114 1831 57961 47 ■^50 117241 EXPORTS.— Value sterling. British Colonies. To Great Britain. United States. Foreign States. Year. West North Else- Total. Indies. America. where. £ £ £ £ £ £ £ 1822 131500 3150 3200 .... .... 1100 138950 1823 147160 3870 6630 360 6717 1542 166279 1821 172539 5595 3137 10155 1784 193210 1825 192342 2073 14750 3401 1574 214140 1826 1.53061 2225 4976 4396 .... 164633 1827 114183 6117 2300 .... 2537 125137 1828 198375 4040 7265 . . < . 620 210301 1829 138574 6878 4991 .... 1908 152352 1830 100661 144384 6318 3043 767 1 10790 1831 15686 2 20 160290 APPENDIX M. &&$ EXPORTS OF TOBAGO. V IMPORTS.— Ships Inwards. Great British United Foreign Total. Britain. Colonies. States. States. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. No. Tons. Men. 21 5300 48 3594 1 107 10 559 80 9560 658 29 7067 37 2549 11 1289 7 175 84 11080 778 22 6027 37 2603 19 2407 4 331 82 11368 854 SO 8141 27 2376 12 1067 8 478 77 12062 652 25 6525 56 4186 10 1166 8 526 99 12403 894 27 6461 79 5657 . . . . 16 833 122 12951 1037 29 6818 81 5565 . . 20 1379 130 13762 1035 37 9002 94 6589 . . 20 1588 151 17179 1307 23 5892 7127 97 108 6228 6647 •• 26 1825 146 156 13945 15252 1072 28 Nc . 20. T onsj 1478 EXPORTS.— Ships Outwards. Great Britain. British Colonies. United States. Foreign States. Total. No. Tons. 6265 No. 51 Tons. 4391 No. Tons. No. 13 Tons. 696 No. 91 Tons. 113.52 Men. 27 763 30 6943 22 1876 10 1075 8 434 70 10328 631 23 6323 27 2651 13 1586 19 2073 82 12933 786 22 6410 15 1383 11 1090 3 181 51 9064 492 27 6456 56 3714 6 548 o 68 91 10786 851 18 4849 77 6266 11 499 21 1521 127 13135 1016 32 7758 85 5994 15 1171 132 14923 1127 25 6528 105 8711 15 1037 145 16276 1260 26 6917 121 8590 11 717 158 16224 1414 504 APPENDIX X. The following returns of Exports from Demerara, Berbice, Tobago, and Trinidad, I received from the Board of Trade too late to insert in the proper chapters treating of the pos- sessions referred to. I give them as historical documents for future comparison. DEMERARA— PRINCIPAL ARTICLES OF EXPORT. YEARS. SUGAR. RUM. MOLASSES. COFFEE. Hon^sheads. Puncheons. Hogsheads. lbs. 1822 47,453 22,030 10,334 10,494,769 1823 55,453 17,741 19,803 8,085,729 1824 47,542 13,477 24,637 7,761,135 1825 1826 44,457 19,365 16,365 5,890,446 1827 58,360 19,431 25,814 4,782,253 1828 59,652 13,592 31,822 3,809,875 1829 59,589 22,517 21,237 4,684,991 1830 58,111 27,847 19,585 5,025,256 1831 52,844 18,164 21,807 1,227,705 BERBICE— PRINCIPAL ARTICLES OF EXPORT. YEARS. SUGAR. MOLASSES. RUM. COFFEE. Hogsheads. Casks. Puncheons. lbs. 1822 4,416 581 600 4,098 1823 5,081 1,143 1,050 2,602 1824 6,138 2,540 913 2,005 1825 1826 1,356 1,827 1,664 1,230 1827 6,424 429 1,912 4,785 1828 6,198 1,024 2,563 1,989 1829 5,258 248 2,738 2,239 1830 1831 10,850 279 2,117 2,241 APPENDIX X. 505 TRINID.\D— PRINCIPAL ARTICLES OF EXPORT. YEARS. SUGAR. COFFEE. lbs. lbs. 1822 29,366,667 346,588 1823 31,815,551 394,730 1824 31,498,773 267,678 1825 1826 36,532,238 285,933 1827 1828 49,531,539 277,627 1829 43,135,662 190,332 1830 28,072,596 136,900 1831 33,593,969 894,289 RUM. MOLASSES. Gallons. Gallons. 89,965 316,574 35,351 634,252 47,922 788,742 41,331 917,979 1,218,463 44,915 1,218,463 70,927 1,150,943 27,500 534,280 19,521 1,943,952 TOBAGO— PRINCIPAL ARTICLES OF EXPORT. YEARS. SUGAR. 1 MOLASSES. RUM. Hogsheads. Puncheons. Puncheons. 1822 7,509 442 5,111 1823 8,760 850 4,667 1824 8,681 401 5,053 1825 8,110 757 5,484 1826 8,760 300 5,477 1827 5,419 138 4^,136 1828 8,685 812 5,450 1829 7,570 183 4,154 1830 6,687 48 4,220 1831 8,453 138 5,171 506 APPENDIX O. ADVANTAGES OF MAKING THE BRITISH WEST INDIA ISLANDS FREE PORTS, PARTICULARLY TORTOLA, ILLUSTRATED BY THE EXAMPLE OF THE DANISH ISLAND OF ST. THOMAS. Nothing in the system of restrictive policy has been more palpably injurious to national or colonial prosperity than the refusal to place Tortola on the same footing as St. Thomas in regard to free port privileges ; and, what is equally sin- gular, the English packet calls at the foreign island of St. Thomas instead of Tortola, although Tortola is preferable in geographical position, in the convenience of the harbour as a healthy residence, and in every respect which could entitle it to a claim to a fair and honourable commercial com- petition. Both are nearly unproductive as sugar colonies ; in order to prevent the little sugar grown in Tortola from being increased in quantity by foreign sugar being sniuggled in and becoming naturalized as British plantation, and paying the British duty only, an Act of Parliament was passed in 1802, and renewed in 1806, but which expired in three years, limiting the annual export of Tortola sugar to the average export thereof during the preceding seven years, thus protecting the other colonies from injury, from an unlimited import of foreign sugar becoming nominally British, and benefiting accordingly as to duty in the home market. But all the other restrictions, as to imports from foreign countries into this colony, were continued, and the measure was almost va- lueless as an experiment of an unrestricted free port to compete with her neighbour St. Thomas. It is evident, then, that all restrictions as to imports and exports must be done away at Tortola, saving the limitation as to the quantity of British plantation sugar to be exported. APPENDIX O. 507 A duty of one-quarter, or even half per cent., ad valorem, may be raised on imports, to })ay the charges of government. At present, to use the language of a public functionary there, whose practical knowledge and intelligence are unquestion- able, ' a more distressed and deserted island I never saw. As to trade there is none. The shipment of sugar is a mere bagatelle. Yet such a spot for rivalling St. Thomas is not possessed by the Government. The trade is now very large to that island. Vessels from the windward islands would save by it two days' sail, at least, by not going so far to lee- ward to bear up again.' The trade, in value to St. Thomas, is stated at 2,000,000 sterling : the profit on this trade may be estimated at ten per cent, nett, or £j200,000. Now, why should not Great Britain at least share in this profit ? It may be asked, what would you have ? — what do you mean by an unrestricted free port ? This ; that the people of all countries should be at liberty to settle there — to purchase land — to build houses — to be entitled to all the privileges of natural born British subjects — and to be, during good conduct, equally protected in person and property, with permission to import and export in vessels of any country the produce and manufacture of every country. Let us consider the objections. Other British colonies might ask for similar privileges, and could not be refused if the experiment succeeded and if it en- riched the colonists. And why should they be refused 'J^ But, unless the other islands could move themselves to the site of Tortola, they could not benefit by the trade she would have with the two Americas, in addition to that with Asia and Europe. Tortola is geographically placed for the purposes of commerce between the old world and the new, and may be made the link to unite them in trading inter- course and in the bonds of friendship, just as St. Thomas does now% which is the great pawnbroker's shop of the tropics, where goods are deposited for sale, and money lent on them to enable the trader to go and fetch a fresh cargo. The present British free ports are so fettered by regula- 508 APPENDIX 6. tions, that they are mere nominal free ports, called ironi- cally by the Americans, regal republics. There should therefore be no jealousy on the part of the British Islands, nor should the experiment be denied on this ground to an almost barren island ; but, if it he practicable in the productive agricultural colonies, Avhy not give them the same privilege — the shipping interest may possibly from mis- conception object, but they wnll not be injured by foreign ships trading to Tortola, where not above two or three British ships go now; these would still go to bring the mortgaged sugar home ; — nay, the ship owners would be benefited, for many British ships would trade to Tortola instead of the many foreign ones which now go to St. Thomas from the British connection in a British island ; and if the British ships did not supersede the foreign ships they would not be in a worse position than now. In short, it is sharing with a foreign island and competing with foreigners, and not with British capital, except as far as Bri- tish capital has been attracted to St. Thomas's, from the cul- pable negligence or perverseness of Great Britain by St. Thomas having been permitted to supersede her next door neighbour, Tortola. There is in Tortola a large free African population let loose on the island and wanting employment ; there is a British apprentice population, occupied in raising sugar at a larger cost than elsewhere, and who have not ade- quate employment,. Will you give these people employment by trying an experiment, which may benefit that community and can injure no other, and may be of great service to the manufactures, commerce, and navigation of Great Britain. Tortola has some claim too on the benevolence, I may say justice, of the British Government. As the price of a British Constitution she paid in 1774 the four and a half per cent, duty to the crown, amounting in 1820 to £105,000. sterling, no part of which has ever been applied to island purposes. She erected at her own expense fortifications to preserve the colony to the Crown amounting to £22,000. She experienced a tremendous hurricane in 1819, nearly fifteen years ago, from which she has never recovered : APPENDIX O. 509 her losses, ascertained on oath, having been upwards of £150,000. sterling; and will it be credited in these liberal days, when one hundred thousand pounds were given two years ago by Parliament to Barbadoes, and St. Lucia, and St. Vincent, under precisely similar circumstances, and a loan of half a million sterling for ten years, that Tortola was in 1820 refused a Government loan of £10,000. sterling for any period ; the Colony has necessarily con- tinued in the same state of misery ever since — their slaves not allowed to be moved to more fertile colonies, have be- come of little value, and these very misfortunes become a new source of loss in the reduced rates to be paid to them for slave compensation out of the twenty millions. There have not for many years been any troops in Tortola. In 1832 they were threatened with insurrection among the negroes, the commander of a Danish ship of war, Captain Bodenhoff, of the St. Jan, landed his marines, laid off the town, and thus at that time preserved the island to the Crown of Great Britain, at least the remaining property there, to its subjects. It has been stated that from the great resort of vessels of all nations and flags to St. Thomas's, that the slave trade dealers find in the large magazines or stores of St. Thomas facilities in fitting out slave vessels, and that many are so fitted out it is presumed without the knowledge of the autho- rities, but arising from the island being so convenient in all respects. If this charge is as true as it is believed to be, it is an additional reason for sharing the trade between Tortola and St. Thomas. Lieut.-Coh Moody, Royal Engineers, thus explains the nature of the free port of St. Thomas. ' Let us suppose a vessel from the Spanish main to arrive at St. Thomas, a Danish unlimited free port. If the vessel has a cargo of produce, the value thereof is declared to the chief officer of the customs, who also novf is chief military and naval officer in the colony ; as it is a very small one, the King's duties are ascertained, and the fees to all the officers in like manner determined on a per centage. There is no 510 APPENDIX O. trouble about paying so much to the collector, so much to the comptroller, then to the searcher and M'aiter ; again to the clerk, and finally to the naval officer, as in the English Custom House, when fees are paid. When the captain thinks he has done, then comes payment for permits, certi- ficates, bonds, &c. of which the poor captain cannot see the necessity. In St. Thomas all kinds of fees are moderate, and paid at once to one person, who accounts to the King for the amount, and the King divides the amount according to frac- tional shares, keeping one-third for the Crown. The vessel being now entered, and the Spaniard having sold his cargo, if he did not bring up dollars with him, as is generally the case, he visits the different merchants' warehouses, often with the crew laden with dollars, in bags, at his heels. In one warehouse he buys British goods, in another American, and East Indian, in a third French, and a fourth German goods, &c. or he may find in one store (as the warehouse and shops are called), all the articles he wants collected together. The Spaniard having made his bargains, an important arrange- ment takes place, which induces him to perfer the unlimited free port to a free port like those of the English colonies. According to the part of South America to which he is going, does he assort his packages, and suit their size to the load of a man, a mule, or a canoe, according to circumstances. Each package must contain a variety of articles, many of which he could not get at the English islands, but at a great price. In some packages may be seen a piece of nankeen from China, silk handkerchiefs from Madras, a piece of linen from Ger- many, ribbons and gloves from France, muslin and chintz from England, &c. These packages are almost infinitely varied and faithfully invoiced, so as to suit all classes of customers. Their new forms and smaller bulk also enable the Spaniard to land and unload his cargo at unfrequented bays, after he has evaded or bribed the Guarda Costas, and in like manner he disposes of his goods, avoiding the pay- ment of the national duties to the King of Spain or the Co- lombia Republic. This kind of trade, it will be perceived, APPENDIX O. 511 can only be carried on where foreign vessels of diftei'ent nations are permitted to make a depot, as no one nation could furnish all the articles without an increase of expense, which would defeat the object, and hence our English free ports have failed. This sort of trade, when the Spaniard visits the free port, is that most profitable to the European mer- chant, and it will now be seen that, from the superior value of those assorted packages to the customers of the Spaniard, it is more advantageous for him to pay the duties and fees at St. Thomas, rather than purchase packages less saleable at an English island, though he would have neither duties nor fees to pay. The repetition of this idea so often demands an apology, but it is upon it that the whole question turns respecting free ports in the West Indies. It will also be seen that for some time to come in a thinly settled country, this clandestine trade will flourish, as the Spaniard, whose case we have supposed, will continue to be able to undersell even the merchant who may import his goods direct from Europe to the Spanish main. The latter must pay warehouse room, and enormous duties on foreign commerce, and heavy fees to corrupt men in the new government. All these expenses must be put on his goods, and which the contraband trader avoids. Mr. Sarqui, one of the first foreign merchants at St. Thomas, and who has had the greatest experience in that trade, told me, that encouraged by a fair and moderate tariff of duties, especially promulgated by the Colombian Republic, he sent down two vessels to La Guayra, laden with goods, proper for the market, and the vessels entered at the Custom House in a legal manner. As soon as his>and some other vessels had begun taking in their loading, the tariff of duties was altered by the government to a scale extravagantly high, so that he and other merchants had generally suffered con- siderable pecuniary losses whenever they depended on the government of South America. Such proceedings on the part of the executive are considered by merchants to justify smuggling, in which manner, for many years past, trade has almost universally been earned on. These considerations. 51^ APPENDIX O. Avith some others which I have not time to detail with all the circumstances necessary to give them due political weight, induce me to believe that for some time to come the markets of South America will continue to be supplied from unlimited free ports, notwithstanding the formation of Republican forms of government, in a country where individuals are not found with capitals to trade on their own accounts, and where the executive either wants the necessary strength or the necessary integrity to induce prudent men to invest much capital amongst them. This trade is now chiefly engrossed by the Danish Island of St. Thomas, but I think it possible, without any sacrifice for Great Britain still to enable Tortola to partake of it.' In illustration of the foregoing I give an Extract from a Letter from the Speaker of the Assembly of Tortola, dated 1st July, 1830. * Tortola feels, the existing restrictions more sensibly than any other island, and it produces only about three and a half cwt. of sugar to one negro, and which is almost the only production, cotton being nearly abandoned from the low prices in England, and rum not worth the making, as it obtains in St. Thomas only about 20 cents, or 10c?. sterling per gallon, and the puncheon is given to the purchaser, which at the above price is 25 per cent, of the whole ; the freight down is 10 per cent., and the commissions, storage, &c. there, is five per cent., leaving little more than one half to the seller. About 1,400 hogsheads of sugar have been made per annum on an average of the last seven years, but not near so much will be produced this year, as the rains have fallen in- cessantly. From the above we conclude that the whole pro- duce of the island cannot weigh for one moment with the mother country a mere drop in the ocean. And now let us consider the advantages to be derived from a different system : and 1st. as to salubrity, Tortola is admitted on all hands to be full as healthy as any other island in the West Indies, — a cir- cumstance of very considerable importance to European set- tlers. The harbour is large, and capable of containing any number of ships of any burthen, as the road-stead may with APPENDIX O. 513 propriety be classed with it, it being entirely land-locked around, and excellent anchorage throughout, and deep water through all the passages ; indeed, ships and vessels of all de- scriptions choose to come inside to take advantage of the smooth water. The rising land around the harbour offers the most beau- tiful sites for building upon, and the flat on which Road Town principally stands, is most convenient for wharfs, land- ing-places, &c., the water being deep close up to the shore. There are two strong fire-proof stores built, and others would very soon be in progress. Would Great Britain concede to us such a boon, under the protection of the British flag and British laws, it is not too much to say that every class of merchants, now ti'ading to, or residing at St. Thomas, would immediately take advantage of it, as there is no single convenience connected with St. Thomas, which Tortola either does not now or could enjoy two fold ; in point of healthiness, no comparison can be drawn. At a small expense it might be rendered almost im- pregnable to attack in time of war, as there is a reef which runs out, on which a water battery might be constructed, to command both the harbour and road-stead, and be covered by the forts now built on the hills around and over the town. The constant presence of vessels of war would not be neces- sary, either for the protection of the commerce or revenue, as nothing could either enter or depart without permission. The duties to be levied ought not perhaps to be too high, as it would be principally an entrepot for the division of car- goes for the main. St. Thomas demands a nominal duty of 5 per cent, ad valorem, on all cargoes entered, but a twentieth part is seldom given in, and no surveillance follows ; notwith- standing which the Governor-General of St. Croix, the Com- mandant of St. Thomas, and other officers receive immense salaries out of the colonial chest of St. Thomas, whilst the contents of that in St. Croix, is remitted to Copenhagen. There is also an impost under the name of weigh money, of the nature of which I am not informed. VOL. II, L L 514 APPENDIX O. A petition was sent from here some time ago to y\. that the packets from England might wait here instead of at St. Thomas, when it was asserted that it would be inconvenient for the packet to wait at Tortola, in consequence of the mail- boat from La Guayra not being able to beat so far to wind- ward without detaining the packet. The fact however proves the contrary, as the boat from the main, after leaving her bags with the packet, and stopping on her own account twenty-four, or perhaps forty-eight hours, arrives at or passes by Tortola on her passage to windward, very frequently some days before the arrival of the boat from Barbadoes following the packet, and as in this case she would not have to call at St. Thomas, she might at least be here two days earlier. Surely this will not be considered too much for a British Is- land to ask of the Parent State. The next most convenient island, as to geographical po- sition for an unlimited free port, is Dominica, situated be- tween the French islands of Martinique and Guadaloupe ; it would command a large trade with them and other countries. The succession of hurricanes, which since the last war have desolated this island, has reduced the colonists to the lowest ebb of despondency. Nothing but a thriving trade can re- store the prosperity of this once flourishing colony, which has received no assistance from the governor to repair the mischief arising from these fatal visitations. APPENDIX P. The following is an estimate of the sum of £16, 167 required to he voted by Parliament, to defray the charges of the salaries of Governors, Lieut .- Governors, and others in H. M.'s West India Colonies, from 1st of April, 1834, to 31st of March, 1835 :— Governor-in-Chief o£ Antigua, St. Christophers, Dominica, and their de- pendencies, ^''3,000; Lieut. -Governor of St. Christophers, ditto of Domi- nica, each ^"1,300 ; Governor-in-C/iie/of Barbadoes, St. Vincents, Grenada, and Tobago, A^4,000 ; Lieut -Governor of Grenada, ^950 ; Lieut.-Governor of Tobago, ^'1,300; Lieut.-Governor of the Bahamas, i«6;irt University Mag. June 1831. CONTENTS OF VOL. I.— ASIA. Chapter I. — Rise and progress of the British power iu Asia ; Conquest and formation of the Territories under the Presidencies of Bengal, Agra, Madras, and Bombay; an account of the stipendiary' Princes ; of the subsidized and protected States, and of the tributary or feuda- tory Chiefs, and a full examination of our subsidiary policy. Chapter II. — Physical aspect, area, climate, natural productions, and population of each province of the Bengal, Agra, Madras, and Bombay Presidencies : Population, number of Houses, Villages, &c. in each district ; Varieties of nations, among 100,000,000 British subjects, for- mation of national character, &c. Chapter III. — Exposition of the English and Indian Governments of Bengal, Agra, Madras, and Bombay ; Patronage of ditto ; Civil, Judi- cial, Police, Military, Marine, Medical, and Ecclesiastical Establish- ments, &c. Chapter IV. — ^The financial and monetary system of British India ; different systems of Land Revenue, and aggregate taxation ; Expendi- ture and Debt of the three Presidencies, with the Surplus or Deficit Revenue of each since 1814 ; Monetary system of India, Bank of Bengal, &c. Chapter V. — Commerce, Maritime and Internal of Bengal, Madras, and Bombay ; Trade with Great Britain, Continental Europe and America, China, Eastern Islands, &c. ; Staples of India, and suggestions for their improvement ^d developement ; injustice of England towards India. Chapter VI. — The Press; (European and Native) State of Education, and Colleges in each Presidency ; Religion of the Hindoos, Parsees, Mahomedans, and Christians, &c. ; Slavery ; Crime in India and in England compared ; Social aspect of British India, past and present. Chapter VII. — Ceylon, its area, physical aspect. Climate and Natural Productions ; early History ; European Conquest and British Settle- ment ; Government, Population, Male and Female, White, Free, Black, and Slaves, in each district ; Classification ; Boodhist Religion ; PROSPECTUS. Civil Government ; Judicial Establishments ; Military force. Revenue and Expenditure for twenty-two years ; Government and Missionary Schools ; Internal and Maritime Commerce ; Social and Political Aspect, in a Military and Nautical view, and advantages to Great Britain, &c. Chapter VIII. — Steam Navigation with India; Proposed plan of Post Office Steam Packets, via Madeira, St. Helena, Cape of Good Hope, Isle of France, Ceylon, &c. ; advantages and disadvantages of the Red Sea and Cape of Good Hope route balanced ; computation of the expense of twelve Steam Packets, &c. Chapter IX. — Pcnang, Malacca, Singapore, and China, their area, phy- sical aspect. Climate, Population, Government, Revenue, Expenditure, Natural Productions, Commerce with ditFerent Countries, Monetary system. Weights, INIeasures, and Numbers, Trading Regulations, Port Dues, &c. ; Imports and Exports to and from England, and general advantages. Chapter X. — British Possessions in Asia in a Christian, Political and Commercial point of view, and Future Prospects of the Empire. Appendix. — Tables of Population, Houses, Villages, Stock, &c. in Bri- tish India ; Military Returns from the Anglo-Indian Army ; Expenses of Haileybury and Addiscombe Colleges since their establishment ; Analysis of the whole of the Indian Coins and moneys circulating in the East ; External Commerce of Bengal ; declining state of the In- dian trade with England ; Importation and Exportation of Bullion at each Presidency ; ditto at Bengal to and from different countries ; money expended in educating the Natives at each Presidency since 1814 ; Costs of Suits at Law in the different Courts of British India ; Duty oa East and West India Sugars in England, for fifty years, &c. LONDON : PRINTED BY W. NICOL, 51, PALL MALL. L This book is DUE^l, S4',-Ta;^e^st^li??^o^^. URL DEC 3 1964 i^E c E r VI r: D r.^AIN LOAN Sesk Or.} HFC 3 1964 A.M. P M LZIiLLl!lOIUil2lli2|l3i4l5' ' REC'DLO-L^L t0 JSc APR -6 1970 i. XI J. IJA V^B&MAli X APR 09 HRE ^WEEKS FROM DATtb KCf_tiill RECD YR(. 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