THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES 
 
 *
 
 AN OPEN LETTER 
 
 ADDRESSED TO 
 
 SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE, Bart., 
 
 ETC., ETC., ETC , 
 ON THE DAY OF HIS ARRIVAL IN 
 
 THE HOLY CITY OF JERUSALEM 
 
 [May it soon be Rebuilt and Established), 
 SUNDAY, 22 TAMOOZ, 5635, a.m. — JULY 25, 1875, 
 
 BY 
 
 THE REV. MEYER AUERBACH, 
 
 FORMERLY CHIEF RABBI OF KALISCH, NOW ROSH BETH-DIN OF 
 
 THE SEVERAL GERMAN CONGREGATION'S, 
 
 AND 
 
 THE REV. SAMUEL SALANT. 
 
 (gfraitglateb from ttye original pftbreto) 
 
 TOGETHER 
 
 WITH A NARRATIVE 
 
 OF A 
 
 FORTY DAYS' SOJOURN IN THE HOLY LAND, 
 
 DEVOTED TO AN INVESTIGATION OF THE STATE OF SCHOOLS, 
 
 COLLEGES, AND CHAKITABLE INSTITUTIONS, GIVEN TO 
 
 THE WELL-WISHERS OF ZION, 
 
 BY 
 
 SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE, Bart., F.R.S., 
 
 ON HIS RETURN FROM HIS SEVENTH PILGRIMAGE TO THE 
 LAND OF PROMISE. 
 
 9 ELLUL, 5035— SEPTEMBER 9, 1875. 
 
 LONDON : 
 PRINTED BY WERTHEIMER, LEA AND CO., 
 
 CIRCUS PLACE, FINSBURTf CIRCUS. 
 
 1 8 7 5.
 
 vs 
 
 \c>7 
 
 °llo 
 
 A 
 
 AN OPEN LETTER 
 
 ADDRESSED TO 
 
 SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE, BARONET, 
 
 ETC., ETC., ETC. 
 (Translated from the Original Hehrew.) 
 
 By the help of the Eternal ; praised be His name ! 
 Jerusalem, the Holy City 
 
 (May it soon be rebuilt and restored to its 
 former glory), 
 
 Sunday, the 22nd of Tamooz, 5635. 
 22nd of July, 1875. 
 
 To Sir Moses Montefiore, Bart., etc., etc., etc., our 
 faithful protector. May your entrance this day 
 into our Holy City of Jerusalem be for Peace ; 
 may your own arrival and that of your friends 
 be blest ! 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Your seventh visit to the Holy Land has opened, as 
 it were, our eyes, so as to be able to behold the purity of 
 your intense love to the Hory Land, and to your brethren, 
 the people of the Lord, who dwell therein, to much greater 
 advantage than we ever did before. All your former pil- 
 
 .^JLv_,
 
 grimages to the Holy Land were holy, but this, your seventh 
 pilgrimage, we consider most holy. Its radiant crown illu- 
 mines the whole period of those thirty-five years now gone 
 by, in which you so strongly evinced towards us, your 
 brethren now before you, the goodness of your heart and the 
 fervour of your friendship. 
 
 Ever since the day we heard the happy tidings of your 
 setting out on the present holy mission, our prayers were 
 offered up to the Most High. 
 
 We even instituted an especial prayer that the Eternal 
 might preserve your going out and your coming in, permit 
 you to enter with peace into the City of Peace, find delight 
 in the City of Delight, and behold Jerusalem an habitation 
 of peace. We also invoked Heaven to grant us the happiness 
 of enjoying your presence whilst with us, as it is at this clay. 
 Praise then we now render to Him who has given you the 
 strength to bear the fatigue of this long journey. Blessed be 
 thou of the Lord, thou Moses the servant of God. How 
 glorious is this day ! the day you appear in the fulness of 
 dignity on the Mount — the Mount which you purchased to 
 yourself, as it were, by your love. How glorious, we say, is 
 the day in which you embraced us with the arms of a father ; 
 the day we had the happiness of beholding your radiant coun- 
 tenance, when our eyes could not sufficiently satiate themselves 
 by beholding theholy joy which illuminated your countenance 
 while conversing with us ; a joy emanating from your fer- 
 vent emotions and sincere attachment to the Holy Land, to 
 our Divine Law, to all that concerns the raising of its honour 
 and the honour of those who are engaged in the study 
 thereof; a joy arising from your attachment to the whole 
 congregation of the Eternal who dwells in Zion ! On behold- 
 ing such a noble sight, we offered thanks to God, saying
 
 " Blessed art Thou, O Eternal, for having preserved us alive 
 and permitted us to witness such a day." Mayest Thou, 
 Eternal, satisfy him with long life, and cause his eyes speedily 
 to behold the joy of Jerusalem. 
 
 Now Sir, chief of our land, as God has brought you so 
 far, and our eyes see that you really love Zion's precious sons 
 with the love of a father, they also, on their part, come now 
 to pour out their souls before you, like children would do 
 before a parent, making known their grievances to you 
 through us, your friends, whose signatures are attached to 
 this letter. Relying on your great love of truth and justice, 
 we beg leave to entreat you to take the necessary time for 
 the consideration of the subject we now bring before you; 
 we are confident that, by doing so, you will become instru- 
 mental in causing truth again gloriously to raise its banner. 
 
 There has recently appeared in London a certain Report 
 which lowers, even to the dust, the honour of Jerusalem and 
 its inhabitants, the honour of our Law and those who are 
 engaged in the study thereof; it shows no compassion to 
 the aged, and has no pity on the young, the orphans, and 
 widows. All of them does that document attempt to degrade, 
 so much so that we considered ourselves in duty bound to 
 break our silence, lest by our silence we might fall into sin. 
 
 We propose to give you herewith a copy of that Report, 
 and our refutations of each of its paragraphs seriatim, in 
 accordance with what truth and justice will teach us to say ; 
 and of you, Sir, we beg leave to request that you will examine, 
 with all due and serious attention, every one of our remarks, 
 showing no favour to any man, whether he happen to live 
 in the Holy Land or abroad, in the same way as ive do on 
 the present occasion ; for the subject here involved is one 1 >v
 
 fi 
 
 which the name of God might be profaned ; and, such being 
 the case, no honour dare be shown to any one, however high 
 his rank may be ; and although we are fully aware that there 
 are in this instance three serious considerations, which ought 
 to have restrained us from troubling you, Sir : 1st. The im- 
 propriety of occasioning you the labour, at your advanced 
 age, of going and examining everything yourself; 2nd. 
 The wrong of inflicting upon you the trouble, which we our- 
 selves felt, on hearing certain painful remarks, which, un- 
 fortunately, we shall be obliged to introduce in the course 
 of the refutation we purpose to make ; 3rd. The deep regret 
 we feel in causing a document to emanate from our hands, 
 containing expressions of disrespect towards a gentleman, of 
 whom we should never have thought it possible (for we fully 
 believed him to be an upright and most honourable man) that 
 he would issue such an imperfect Report as the one in ques- 
 tion proved to be ; and, it is impossible to make an apology 
 for him by supposing he might have signed the document 
 without knowing the contents thereof. 
 
 However this may be, we, on our own part, having in 
 vain endeavoured to find a reasonable cause for his act, so as 
 to justify him, deem ourselves now, for the sake of our in- 
 tense love for Jerusalem, and the cause of truth, as well as 
 for the sake of our fervent desire to prove the radiant inno- 
 cence of the Holy City, perfectly free to disregard all the 
 above considerations. 
 
 Our intentions are not, God forbid, to cause disrespect to 
 be thrown on that generous gentleman, the author of the 
 Report in question ; our object is only to vindicate the 
 honour of Jerusalem and its inhabitants, consisting of thou- 
 sands of most worthy men, observing the Law, cleaving unto 
 the Eternal our God.
 
 The author of the Report did not guard his words, and, 
 moreover, published statements which he had only heard 
 from persons who despised the word of God, and who 
 would not even afford him the opportunity of seeing any- 
 thing that was good ; it was that unfortunate circumstance 
 which has caused us to step out from our usual sphere of 
 action and trouble you with our request, to listen attentively 
 to the subject we have now to bring before you. 
 
 We now proceed (as we have stated before) to copy the 
 paragraphs in question as taken from the Report, and to 
 give to each of them the reply it requires. 
 
 I. — "Private and Confidential" 
 
 Such is the heading of the Report, and for all that, it was 
 published, and became a matter of discussion with editors 
 of periodicals, whose object appears to have been to cause 
 trouble and vexation to all those who fear the Lord, and 
 uphold His Law. The reason why that private communi- 
 cation became thus unintentionally revealed to the public, 
 may perhaps be discerned in a statement made by our 
 revered teachers (Ethics ch. 4, Mishna IV), " whosoever pro- 
 faneth the name of God in secret," they say, " whether in- 
 advertently or presumptuously, satisfaction will be demanded 
 of him in public." 
 
 'bn mt2 psnitf Tp!i D W ^v bbntin bs 
 : D^n ^Sna nna nrusn ifitf inx 
 
 II. — " In compliance with the desire expressed 
 by various Members of the Jewish Board of 
 Deputies in London, I beg to lay before your 
 Committee the result of the investigation made by
 
 8 
 
 me in Jerusalem, in connection with N. N., as to 
 the condition of the Jewish inhabitants, and a 
 statement of the impressions we received. The 
 time spent in Palestine was fifteen days, which 
 were almost entirely devoted to the Jewish 
 quarter of Jerusalem." 
 
 It is well known to all travellers who visit Jerusalem 
 with the intention of exploring the place, that fifteen days' 
 time will scarcely suffice for seeing the ruins and ancient spots 
 around the Holy City, far less for making all the necessary 
 enquiries regarding the state and condition of the inhabi- 
 tants thereof. Besides, there is another matter not quite 
 clear. The writers of the Report made, during their stay in 
 the Holy Land, several journeys ; they went from Jaffa to 
 Jerusalem, from Jerusalem to the Jordan, and returned 
 again from Jerusalem to Jaffa. The time necessary fur these 
 journeys is five days, consequently there only remained for 
 their inquiry ten daj 7 s ; taking away from these ten days, 
 five, in Avhich the heavy falls of snow and rain prevented 
 their going out of the house, and the time taken up by 
 walking from one place to the other, we ask, when had they 
 time to make all their enquiries ? They could only have 
 done so just as they walked along the street, taking the 
 information from the shop-keepers and hawkers, but we 
 shall speak on this subject more particularly as we 
 proceed. 
 
 We maintain, moreover, that they have taken their in- 
 formation not in a Jewish, but in a Missionary Street, in 
 the Hotel kept by the Convert Ornstein, a house into which 
 many who feared the Lord would not enter, and those few 
 win* did, out of respect to the travellers could not remain 
 there Ions:.
 
 9 
 
 III— "The 192 questions submitted by Mr. 
 Lewis Emanuel only arrived at Jaffa on the home- 
 ward journey, and were too late to be available. 
 Mr. Emanuel states that these were prepared and 
 forwarded by him unofficially." 
 
 The above remark removes from our mind a matter of 
 great surprise, viz. :— A year ago Sir Moses addressed to us, 
 and the representatives of the several Congregations a letter 
 regarding the best means to be adopted for the improvement 
 of the condition of our brethren in the Holy Land, to which 
 we all replied to the best of our knowledge. Sir Moses 
 presented our letters on the subject to the Palestine Com- 
 mittee of the London Committee of Deputies of the British 
 Jews, who caused these letters to be printed. Now there 
 are two things which appear to us most extraordinary. 1st. 
 What occasion was there for the Committee to make any 
 further enquiry on the subject 1 Could they not depend on 
 the communications of Sir Moses, and on those of his old 
 friends the distinguished Hahamim in Jerusalem? 2nd. 
 When the Committee decided to send out emissaries, why 
 did the latter, when they required information, " forsake the 
 fountain of sure waters, and proceed to seek the same in 
 broken cisterns ?" Was it, because those men in whom Sir 
 Moses had put his trust during so many years, without ever 
 finding, God forbid, any wrong in them ; was it, because they 
 were unable to supply them with correct information, that 
 the emissaries were compelled to enquire of the " Baale'- 
 Zebub," whose object at all times is to cause, as it were, even 
 " the best oil to send forth displeasing savour !" 
 
 IV. — " It will readily be believed, however, 
 that although every moment, from early morning 
 till late at night, was occupied in visiting the
 
 IS) 
 
 people, awl those most likely to give information 
 concerning them ; it was impossible within the 
 time named to master every detail regarding their 
 condition." 
 
 The Reporters here acknowledge, that it was impossible 
 for them to ascertain, within the short time of their sojourn 
 in the Holy Land, all they ought to have become acquainted 
 with, especially, as the whole of even that short time had 
 not, as we have already proved before, been devoted to the 
 subject in question, and it thus becomes evident that the 
 whole contents of the Report emanated from oral commu- 
 nication made to them by men, untrue to the cause .of 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 V. — " The places visited were the following : — 
 Jaffa and the country crossed between that City 
 and Jerusalem, formerly the fertile plain of 
 Sharon ; the City and environs of Jerusalem ; the 
 country between Jerusalem and the Dead Sea ; 
 the valley of the J ordan, and the plain of Jericho. 
 It will be seen that this area includes the whole 
 breadth of Southern Palestine, from the Mediter- 
 ranean to the Dead Sea, and comprises, perhaps, 
 the most fertile tract in the whole country." 
 
 Their geographical knowledge of the boundaries of the 
 Holy Land appears to be rather limited, for they call the 
 Road from J alia to Jerusalem " the fertile Plain of Sharon," 
 and the stretch of land they have seen, while sitting on 
 horseback, or in the carriage, on the road leading to Jeru- 
 salem, makes them imagine they have already seen " the 
 whole breadth of Southern Palestine."
 
 11 
 
 VI. — " The sources whence the information 
 contained in this Report was derived, are — the 
 Pasha of Jerusalem, the British, American, and 
 other Consuls ; medical men connected with the 
 hospitals ; visitors ; residents of all denominations, 
 including the Rabbis of the different communities ; 
 bankers, editors, and tradesmen ; also a few per- 
 sons who, having acquired a competence in other 
 lands, live on their means in Jerusalem ; and, 
 above all, the poor inhabitants of the place. Some 
 information was derived from the Arabs, through 
 the services of a Syrian interpreter engaged at 
 Cairo." 
 
 Again the Reporters acknowledge that all the information 
 they gave in the Report consisted merely in that which they 
 had heard from others. They give here the names of the 
 most worthy in the land, so as to cause others to attach 
 credit to the Report. But it is evident that they have only 
 selected for communication to the Committee all such 
 matter calculated to disgrace the inhabitants of the Holy 
 Land ; for is it possible that, among the Pasha and all the 
 Consuls, there was not one found who had a word to 
 say in favour of the Jews, but all bad ! No. God 
 Forbid. 
 
 Our remark refers especially to the Pasha who had only 
 just recently arrived, though it must be admitted that even 
 had he been residing in the City many years, he would 
 not have known any of the affairs of the Jews connected 
 with their interior communal movements; nor could the 
 Consuls have any exact information of the latter. 
 This is again another proof of the irregular and uncon- 
 nected style and composition, which ought not to prevail
 
 12 
 
 in a proper Report. With regard to their mentioning the 
 spiritual heads of the several congregations in so dis- 
 respectful a manner, we can only say, that the authors of the 
 Report have heard from us, as well as from other spiritual 
 heads of the congregations and God-fearing men, just the 
 reverse of what there is stated in the document now before 
 us. As to the information which they say they have 
 obtained from the " Poor," we are bound to observe that 
 " they never admitted a poor man to pass their threshold ; " 
 thus all their statements were principally taken from the 
 mouth of some editor of a newspaper ; and, if that was all 
 they intended to do — to print communications from such a 
 source — there would have been no occasion for them to spend 
 so much money in travelling expenses, the whole of their 
 Report would have been sent to them by post, especially as 
 we know how economically they went about with respect 
 to their arrangements. Notice for instance the £100 
 intended for the Interpreter which they would not lay 
 out. 
 
 VII. — "The sum of £100 authorised by your 
 Committee for this purpose was not expended, as 
 it was not possible to find anyone exactly suited 
 for the mission." 
 
 With reference to this statement we say : — The writers of 
 the Report did not exert themselves, therefore they did not 
 find one ; had they been looking out for such a person pro- 
 perly they would have found even an upright and faithful 
 interpreter, and they would not have been induced to make 
 a Report to the Committee like the present. 
 
 VIII. — " With regard to the number of Jewish 
 inhabitants of Jerusalem, it was very difficult to
 
 13 
 
 arrive at more than an approximate estimate ; the 
 minimum quoted was 11,000, and the maximum 
 20,000. By carefully comparing the different es- 
 timates, 13,000 would appear to be nearer the truth. 
 These consist of about 7,000 Ashkenazim and G,000 
 Sephardim, including the North African Jews. 
 These figures represent about 5,000 families, in- 
 cluding as such about 1,000 widows, also persons 
 who have no one depending on them." 
 
 This statement again shows that the authors of the Re- 
 port only wanted to communicate to the Committee what 
 they had heard from their informants ; the number in 
 question, which may clearly be ascertained from the Com- 
 munal lists, and the books of the several Congregations they 
 did not consult ; had they wished to do so they might have 
 been able to see and ascertain the correct number within one 
 hour's time. Besides, did they not visit the Meeting- 
 house of the German Congregation and see there the book, 
 from which they actually copied the number of persons 
 who were in Jerusalem in the year 5627 — the year that 
 book had been commenced — making at the same time 
 a Memorandum of the number of persons existing there at 
 the present time ? All that escaped their memory ! a most 
 surprising fact ! 
 
 The London Committee of Deputies also is in possession 
 of the exact number of souls, as given in the List of Reci- 
 pients of the various remittances which have been made by 
 them last year. As for the number of non-recipients, that 
 could have been ascertained here without the slightest 
 difficulty. 
 
 IX. — " The great bulk of the Ashkenazim are
 
 14 
 
 either recent immigrants from Russian Poland, 
 Germany, and Austria, or are their immediate 
 descendants. It is only about sixty or seventy 
 years since the Ashkenaz Jews received permission 
 to settle in Palestine. Very many of the immi- 
 grants are refugees from military service, induced 
 to select Jerusalem by the facilities afforded by 
 the R-ussian steamers to Jaffa." 
 
 An accusation brought against the Jews of being refu- 
 gees from military service, may, God forbid, cause a great 
 evil, hatred and awful persecution to befall many thousands 
 of Israel in other lands. Israelites coming before the public 
 in support of such an accusation, undoubtedly prove by 
 such an act that it could not have been their intention to 
 do their Brethren any good. They would not have allowed 
 themselves to become instrumental in causing thousands of 
 Israelites in other countries to be plunged into destruction, 
 had their object truly been to raise the honour of those who 
 dwell in Jerusalem — even if their words had any founda- 
 tion in truth — and more especially if, as the case really is, 
 " there was no truth in their statement at all." Those 
 few Israelites in the Holy Land who have been in military 
 service abroad are such as have completed the number of 
 years which they ought to have served in their country 
 previous to their coming to Palestine, and have quitted 
 their country with the full permission of their respective 
 Governments. There are not many, as we just stated, even of 
 these — but undoubtedly there are no refugees from military 
 service, as the authors of the report assert. 
 
 X. — " Many are simply beggars who, prefer- 
 ring an idle life, come to share in the bounty
 
 15 
 
 which they have heard that their co-religionists 
 freely shower on Jerusalem." 
 
 This statement we must also declare to be incorrect. There 
 are a few old people, persons who unfortunately are obliged 
 to have resort to such means of seeking to secure their exis- 
 tence, but it is not true that it was their original intention, 
 when they came to the Holy Land. Please only, Sir Moses, to 
 inquire, if the proportion of such persons in Jerusalem is 
 not the same, as would be found in any other town of 
 Europe, containing a number of inhabitants similar to that 
 in Jerusalem. 
 
 XI. — " And very many are old men, who come 
 with or without families, out of religious feelino- 
 to die in Jerusalem, but who, in the majority of 
 instances, live to swell the great mass of poverty 
 already existing. As a rule the immigrants are 
 not physically able to engage in manual labour." 
 
 In this observation the Reporters cast ridicule on an 
 interpretation which our revered sages of blessed memory 
 have given to the Sacred text : — TElf in&*7X "1331 The 
 prolongation of the days of men already advanced in 
 years, which our revered teachers have considered as an 
 especial object of praise to the Holy Land, for thus, they 
 say, it is vouchsafed unto us in the words — 
 
 : nan hv own w$ nrh r\rb cynvvh 'n 
 
 "That your days, and the days of your children may be
 
 16 
 
 multiplied in the land of which the Lord sware unto your 
 fathers to give them, as the days of heaven upon the 
 earth " (Deut. xi.), they, the Reporters, according to their 
 view, changed into a curse ; and apprehended more anxiety 
 on that subject than the poor in the Holy Land them- 
 selves evince. Every one of the latter " lives by his own 
 faith," fully believing that there is no one in the world 
 who can take away from his neighbour any of those 
 blessings which were originally assigned unto him by 
 God. 
 
 There is also in the above statement of the Reporters, a 
 contradiction to the charge made by them in Paragraph 
 IX., where they say " Very many of the immigrants are 
 refugees from military service." It being a well known 
 fact that only those who are in full enjoyment of health 
 and strength are selected to serve in the army — whilst here 
 the Reporters say " as a rule the immigrants are not physi- 
 cally able to engage in manual labour." 
 
 XII. — " The condition of the people, and their 
 occupations, have called for careful investigation. 
 About ten per cent, of the householders are en- 
 gaged in business or handicraft, chiefly in 
 selling articles of food and clothing. A few 
 work at tailoring, shoemaking, carpentering, 
 weaving, working in metals, shop-keeping, &c, 
 and among the Portuguese only, as labourers and 
 porters." 
 
 We wonder who gave them the number of people en- 
 gaged in business and trade ? The truth is, that the greater 
 part of the inhabitants of Jerusalem are engaged in souk-
 
 17 
 
 business or trade, even of those who study in the colleges — 
 most of them seek a livelihood by their manual exertions. 
 There are many tradespeople and shop-keepers among them 
 — there are mechanics of every description — there are por- 
 ters among both the Portuguese and German congregations. 
 You yourself must have seen them, Sir Moses, on your arri- 
 val in the Holy City, when all your luggage was brought 
 into the house by both German and Portuguese porters. 
 
 On referring to the statistical accounts which we are 
 told are already deposited in the library of your college in 
 Ramsgate, and to those we shall have the honour of hand- 
 ing unto you, previous to your leaving the Holy City, you 
 will find that there was scarcely one person who would not 
 be most anxious to secure the maintenance of himself and 
 family by some occupation or other. True, there is no 
 market for the work or produce of the land ; nevertheless 
 there is not a soul who would not try to maintain himself by 
 the work of his hands. 
 
 XIII. — " The work is very badly paid, and 
 there is very little or no inclination among many 
 of the inhabitants to raise themselves above their 
 present degraded condition." 
 
 Who is the wise man that will understand the connection 
 of the several links in this statement ? What connection is 
 there between the work being badly paid and the inclination 
 to work ? Here, in this statement also, in addition to 
 the fact of its having no foundation in truth, is a contra- 
 diction to what the Reporters themselves state in a later 
 paragraph. 
 
 There they say, referring to our Brethren in Jerusalem, 
 
 B
 
 18 
 
 " They would like to raise themselves from their present un- 
 fortunate position if they had only someone who would 
 render them any assistance." 
 
 Truth bears the best evidence in this instance — the in- 
 habitants of Jerusalem strive to the utmost of their power 
 to raise themselves from day to day. 
 
 By the extraordinary acts of industiy which they have 
 recently called into existence, they have already crowned 
 themselves with honour and distinction, which has been 
 bestowed upon them by other nations; all of whom speak of 
 our brethren in the highest terms on account of their 
 industry. 
 
 If the authors of the Report had only wished to see the 
 objects of their investigation, instead of contenting them- 
 selves with hearing a report of them from others ; — if 
 they had really taken delight in seeing that which is good, 
 they would have gone to the Estate called " Meah Shearim " 
 (Hundred Gates), which the poor of the Community have 
 secured unto themselves for building purposes, without any 
 foreign aid from abroad, and God crowned their efforts with 
 success ; or, if they had gone to see several good and large 
 houses, built by the poor themselves, they surely would have 
 refrained from speaking perverse things, so as to bring forth 
 wrong judgment on the subject of their enquiries. 
 
 XIV. — " This applies with special force to the 
 Ashkenazim, and hardly, if at all, to the 
 Sephardim." 
 
 With reference to all these distinctions, which the authors 
 of the Report make between the Sephardim and Ashkenazim ;
 
 19 
 
 the enquirer might feel inclined to ask whether the Reporters 
 denied to the latter the possession of the faculty of under- 
 standing altogether, or whether they only considered them 
 void of knowledge, which they might have acquired had they 
 chosen to do so. By what right, we ask, did the authors of 
 this Report make that distinction between the two Com- 
 munities. 
 
 How durst they presume in their hearts to make a dis- 
 tinction, as it were, between holy and holy ? 
 
 We, who live in the Holy City, do not perceive any of these 
 distinctions between the German and Portuguese, which the 
 authors of the Report maintain to have discovered. There 
 are in both Communities various classes of all grades : there 
 are among them heads of Colleges and their pupils ; men 
 who solely devote their time to the study of the Law and 
 the worship of God ; there are in both Communities men 
 who follow commercial pursuits, and, at the same time, make 
 the study of the Law their principal, and business their 
 secondary consideration ; some do the reverse, and there are 
 common men, following the usual pursuits of life, in both 
 Communities. Where is the Scribe, where the Accountant, 
 to enumerate so minutely all the differences between one 
 Cono-reo-ation and the other ? 
 
 XV. — " The Jews have the reputation among 
 their countrymen of being frugal, except at the 
 time of Festival, and of being the only people 
 who save money. With this reputation, it is a 
 matter of great regret to add they have also 
 gained that of being almost invariably money- 
 lenders to the Arabs."
 
 20 
 
 Wonderful, indeed, are the doings of these Reporters ; look 
 how they sold themselves to their guides that spoiled them. 
 When once it happened that something favourable to their 
 brethren dropped, as it were, accidentally from their pen, 
 such as in the above statement, for instance, where they 
 praise the Jews for being frugal during the work days, and 
 enjoy good meals on their Holidays, they do not appear to 
 feel comfortable in their minds until they mix up with it 
 something bitter (at least according to their views), however 
 unconnected even the subject may be with it. 
 
 With regard to the lending of money to the Arabs, al- 
 though there are only a few who do so, still we are in duty 
 bound to declare that among all hitherto existing enemies of 
 Israel, not one of them ever brought such an accusation 
 against the Jews of the Holy Land as these present Re- 
 porters have done. Every one who knows Jerusalem will 
 bear evidence that all monetary transactions of our brethren 
 are in strict accordance with the Law (See Tr. Baba Meziah, 
 p. 104 b.). All of them understand well the passage in Holy 
 Writ (Deut. xxiii. 21) bearing on that subject. 
 
 XVI. — " The inhabitants of Jerusalem of all 
 denominations are, as a rule, not clean, and it is 
 fashionable to single out and reproach the Jews 
 specially for their unwholesome condition. But 
 water at Jerusalem is very scarce, and is certainly 
 insufficient for the ablutions considered imperative 
 in this country." 
 
 In most houses in Jerusalem cleanliness does prevail, even 
 to a degree more perfect than in houses occupied by other 
 inhabitants of the town of a similar class of people ; and if 
 there be some houses occupied by poor who cannot keep
 
 21 
 
 their rooms so clean, it is because they have no one to 
 render any assistance in the household work, and the wife 
 alone, who has to discharge the duties of a mother to her 
 children, must be at the same time the nurse, and do the 
 work of a needlewoman and cook. If the Reporters allude 
 to that class of persons, then they ought to have spoken of 
 them with a feeling of compassion, and ought not to have 
 confounded with them a great many families who are well 
 known for their cleanliness. Surely there can be no other 
 reason why the Reporters should have made such a state- 
 ment, than their having allowed themselves to be misled 
 by their guides, without wishing to see for themselves any 
 of the habitations of the people. Scarcity of commodious 
 dwellings, and want of sufficient income for the mainten- 
 ance of the family, even among those who do not take any 
 share in the Chalukah — which prevent them engaging a 
 servant — are to be ascribed as the causes of uncleanliness, 
 of which the Reporters complain, so far as it exists at all. 
 
 XVII. — " The above describe the material 
 condition of the people ; their moral and educational 
 status, deserve a word. There are many who can 
 work," etc. 
 
 The physical and spiritual powers in man are two opposing 
 elements ; when one of them rises in power, the other 
 diminishes its strength. Here, in this instance, the Reporters 
 deny 11,000 to persons, living in one City, the possession of 
 both physical and spiritual powers. 
 
 Here, in Jerusalem, they say, are all those gathered to- 
 gether, who are feeble in both physical and spiritual powers. 
 Who has ever heard of such a thing before ? We admit the 
 Reporters' great knowledge in all that concerns " matter,"
 
 22 
 
 but where, we ask, have they derived their great learning of 
 all that concerns " the Spirit ? " The truth, however, is, they 
 have the word " ^ID'Ub," " moral qualities," only on their 
 lips, but not in their hearts ; because it must be clear to 
 all who read the Report before us, that they have departed 
 from that which is considered Heavenly moral, and have 
 never spoken of it ; they have been mixing up conventional 
 rules of society with that which constitutes physical strength ; 
 but their words in substance prove that they were turned 
 aside like a deceitful bow. In Par. XI. they say " that, 
 generally speaking, all those who come to the Holy Land 
 are not fit for any work ;" here, those whom they first 
 declared to be feeble, all at once become girded with 
 strength ; for thus they declare " there are many who can 
 work," etc. 
 
 XVIII. — " But," the Reporters continue in the 
 above paragraph saying, " they (the Jews in the 
 Holy Land) soon become demoralised, and learn to 
 seek for and accept charity. As usual, after once 
 taking alms, they lose what self-respect they ever 
 had, and leam to live entirely, or almost entirely, 
 on what they can collect. This extends to their 
 children, who, from the cradle to the grave, are 
 beholden to the indiscriminate almsgiving of their 
 brethren." 
 
 It appears astonishing to an awful degree that these 
 Reporters, in making their statements, have not been 
 afraid of God. They are pouring contempt and disgrace 
 on many of the most estimable persons, on persons 
 who deeply sigh from grief before they take into 
 their mouths the bread obtained as a share from the 
 Chalukah ; persons who most cheerfully would have
 
 23 
 
 changed the bread of bitterness for that of sweetness 
 (the bread earned by the work of their hands). Everyone 
 in Jerusalem, as has been stated before, exerts himself, 
 to the utmost of his power, by all kinds of work that 
 might possibly secure his maintenance, and is longing for 
 the day on which he might no more have to depend upon 
 the charity of man. The Reporters, in this instance, sprinkle 
 salt, as it were, on the open wounds of our brethren's hearts, 
 heap disgrace on their own co-religionists, make them an 
 object of contempt in the eyes of others, instead of rousing 
 compassion on the poor who dwell in Zion. We cannot un- 
 derstand what in the world could have induced the authors 
 of this Report, to sell themselves thus into the hands of 
 their captors, who provided them with the contents of their 
 communications. 
 
 XIX. — " The education among the Sephardim 
 is very meagre, but is considerably superior to 
 what prevails among the Ashkenazim. In both 
 sects the women are, in almost every case, abso- 
 lutely ignorant, even of reading and writing any 
 language. But the Sephardim are anxious that 
 their children should be educated, and they have 
 their boys taught Hebrew, Lingua Franca, and 
 Arabic. Among the Ashkenazim, however, He- 
 brew only is allowed to be systematically taught^ 
 and grave penalties are enforced against anyone 
 who wishes his children to learn even the language 
 of the country. These penalties are not only of a 
 so-called spiritual nature, but involve social disabi- 
 lities and pecuniary distress." 
 
 With reference to education, and the method adopted for 
 teaching, we have to observe, that it is the same among the
 
 24 
 
 Germans and the Portuguese ; they all walk in this respect 
 on the high road which leads to the House of God. They 
 will not deviate from their path, for it is the high road 
 which had been made for Israel, since the time our fore- 
 fathers stood at the foot of Mount Sinai, and heard there 
 the voice of God enjoining them in the words ^3?/ DrD325h 
 " Thou shalt teach them diligently unto thy children," 
 Deut. vi. 7 ; 
 
 •• : • t : - t v - : I V T •• : • : I v t : t : - : 
 
 "But teach them thy sons and thy sons' sons ; specially the 
 day that thou stoodest before the Eternal thy God in Ho- 
 reb."— Dent. iv. 9, 10. 
 
 Our method consists in teaching our children first the 
 Bible, next the Mishna, then the Guemara ; for we maintain 
 that " the beginning of all wisdom is the fear of the Lord." 
 It was only by this method, that the remnant of the house 
 of Judah escaped, retained its existence, and produced hea- 
 venly fruit. It was this method which enabled Israel to 
 walk uprightly, amidst all the storms and persecutions of 
 the ages, which came out as a whirlwind to destroy them ; 
 and, if our ancestors had planted in the vineyard of Israel 
 any strange slips, just as the present new generation does, 
 that vineyard would have been empty a long time ago ; the 
 least breath of air would have uprooted it, the name of 
 Israel would, God forbid, not have been mentioned any 
 more. It was only by this holy method of instruction, we 
 maintain, that our religion became rooted in the hearts of 
 our children, whilst the dew of their youth gave them 
 91 renffth to mature it
 
 25 
 
 It was by the merit of our exertions to perpetuate the 
 study of the Holy Law, that we and our forefathers were 
 permitted to retain our existence. It is for this reason 
 that we, who dwell in the Holy Territory, in the latter part 
 of our exile, enjoying by the authorities of the land the full 
 privilege to follow the method of instruction we give to our 
 children, and the mode of our religious service ever adopted 
 by our ancestors, would be guilty of committing a sin, were 
 we to do a trespass against ourselves and entertain so unholy 
 a thought as that of offering a strange fire on the Inner Altar 
 of our Sanctuary ; specially, at the present time, when the 
 sacred flame of religion requires the greatest care of preserva- 
 tion. God forbid ! We will never cause the Sacred Law, the 
 Talmud, and the Commentaries thereon, to depart from the 
 mouths of our children, until they grow up and become forti- 
 fied in the fear of God ; but then, when that time arrives, 
 who in the world would prevent them studying any branch 
 . of secular science, or acquiring a knowledge of any language 
 he likes ? Especially the language of the country, and its 
 literature, when required for his pursuits in life ? Who is 
 the man that would allow himself to depart from the path 
 of truth, by prohibiting the grown up student, whose heart 
 is full with wisdom and the fear of God, to study any branch 
 of science he likes, or to acquire a knowledge of languages 
 and their respective literature ? 
 
 Is it not a well-known fact that the members of the 
 Synhedrion were acquainted with seventy languages ! 
 Many of the distinguished savants in Israel have acquired 
 much learning in all the seven liberal arts, which they con- 
 sidered as handmaids, to be in attendance for the better 
 understanding of our Holy Law. 
 
 It is well known that astronomy is a great help to those
 
 26 
 
 who study the laws respecting Kidoosh Hakhodesh. 
 Geometry, Algebra, and Mensuration are of great importance 
 to the student, when reading Massakhtot Eroobin and 
 Mikwaot, and other similar subjects. There are many in 
 the Holy City who have taught their children the above 
 subjects. 
 
 Now with regard to what the Reporters say, that in both 
 Communities the women are almost in every case absolutely 
 ignorant even of reading and writing any language, we 
 beg leave to entreat you, Sir, to have a number of little girls 
 of six years of age brought before you ! Convince yourself, 
 whether they do not know how to read their prayers, trans- 
 late the Bible in Hebrew-German, or in the pure German 
 language. 
 
 XX. — " Nearly all the Jewish Institutions of 
 the City were inspected, the condition of some of 
 these shewed signs of their having been hastily 
 prepared in anticipation of a visit. They were 
 mostly clean. Of the very many places of worship 
 there is no need to speak here, excepting that they 
 are evidences of the increasing number of Jews, of 
 their devotional fervour, and it may be of their 
 material improvement." 
 
 Here again we must express great surprise at the authors 
 of the Report. Even where they are compelled to admit 
 something that is favourable to our brethren, they cannot 
 refrain from mixing it up with some venemous remarks. 
 
 XXI. — " The schools where Sephardim chil- 
 dren are taught are well organised, but the educa- 
 tion, from a European point of view, seems very
 
 27 
 
 limited. History (except biblical history), Geo- 
 graphy, etc., are entirely omitted, and Arithmetic 
 is confined to the elementary rules, etc. The poor 
 children who pored over volumes, little less in size 
 than themselves, seemed to suffer from scanty food 
 and clothing, and their physique exhibited the 
 evils of early marriages, impure air, and unwhole- 
 some surroundings." 
 
 We have already stated our views on the subject of 
 schools, and the difference between the Sephardim and 
 Germans. With regard to the study of the Talmud, a book 
 generally printed on a larger size paper than other books, 
 which became the cause of ridicule in the eyes of the Re- 
 porters, we have only to observe, that, with us, the study 
 of the Talmud is considered a most honourable occupation, 
 a study from which we never intend to depart. As to their 
 observation about the appearance of the children, the scanty 
 food, their physique, and early marriages, the Reporters 
 appear to us to have been mainly intent on making a display 
 of their great knowledge of physiognomy. 
 
 XXII. — " The hospitals are only mentioned 
 here as indicating in some measure the sanitary 
 condition of the people. At their head must be 
 placed the Rothschild Hospital, which is most 
 excellently conducted, and is of the highest utility. 
 It is generally to be regretted that the highly 
 esteemed medical attendant cannot devote the 
 whole of his time to Jewish requirements. The 
 hospital of the Mission is exceedingly efficient, 
 and is much frequented by Jews. Their dietary 
 requirements are fully supplied, and but for the 
 fact that a Hebrew New Testament is placed at
 
 28- 
 
 every bed side, there is no indication that the 
 house is not Jewish. The place is interdicted by 
 the Rabbins, but it is still well attended, illness 
 being pleaded as an imperative argument, etc. 
 The Bikoor Holim Institution was also insp3cted, 
 it contains eight beds, all empty when visited, 
 which was attributed to a charge of 15 piastres 
 (2s. 6d.) per week being exacted from all patients 
 admitted. It was stated that this charge was re- 
 mitted on an order from the Congregation. The 
 managers are anxious to erect a free hospital with 
 iorty beds. The doctor visits the Jewish poor at 
 their homes." 
 
 The Reporters wanted to represent, in their description, 
 the usual appearance of the Hospital Bate Holim, just as it 
 happened to be, on the day when they saw it. Like a man 
 who enters a town on a rainy day, and would then come and 
 report to the effect, that the town in question was perma- 
 nently under a torrent of rain. Had their object been to 
 convince themselves of the true state of the hospital, they 
 would have opened the books in which the names of the 
 patients admitted are kept registered ; or, if they had only 
 entered an adjoining ward, to which they had been invited 
 to go by the Superintendent of the Hospital, they would 
 have seen there three patients. 
 
 But the authors of the Report would not take notice of 
 the Superintendent's invitation, and, of course, did not see 
 the patients in the adjoining ward. Had there been a spark 
 of the fear of God in their hearts, the more there was any 
 reason, in their opinion, to praise the hospital of the 
 missionaries, the more they ought also to have considered it 
 their duty to state the truth, pointing out the great benefit
 
 29 
 
 bestowed upon the Bate Holim by the distinguished spirit- 
 ual heads of Hebrew Congregations in Germany and 
 Holland, who, since the beginning of the year 5634, allow a 
 fixed salary to the physician, and provide the Institution 
 with the necessary medicaments. The physician whom they 
 appointed visits the poor of all our brethren residing in the 
 Holy City in their own houses, without making any charge 
 whatever. 
 
 Since the time when a physician arrived in Jerusalem, 
 most of the inhabitants of the Holy City do not repair so 
 often as they used to do before to the missionary doctors, — 
 who have always been to them, in matters of religion, a 
 stumbling block and stone of offence. 
 
 Instead of exalting the praise of these missionary doctors, 
 the Reporters ought to have raised their voice like that of a 
 high sounding trumpet, for the purpose of rousing the hearts 
 of the people, to act in the spirit of their worthy brethren 
 in Germany, and inducing them to contribute towards 
 the funds necessary for the building of a new hospital, of 
 which the Congregation stands so much in need, in order, as 
 we have said before, to prevent the poor patients from enter- 
 ing the Missionary Hospital, where the tables are covered 
 with books teaching a different religion. But, instead of doing 
 this, the Reporters try to weaken the hands of the Com- 
 mittee, and endeavour even to stop the great good which 
 for the last two years the poor had derived from the Bate 
 Holim, an institution which, when it happens to be neces- 
 sary to have its doors closed, but for one day, the cry of the 
 numerous patients among the poor ascends to heaven, and 
 " the noise of the city, is as it were, in an uproar." 
 
 With regard to the remark of the Reporters, that the
 
 30 
 
 Institution requires each patient to pay on his entry ten 
 piastres, we can only tell them, that the want of necessary 
 means to maintain the hospital compels the Directors to 
 make that charge. Moreover, the poor patient considers it 
 a very great boon to have, for the payment of so small an 
 amount, a place of rest, where he is provided with the ne- 
 cessary medical attendance, and the food he requires. The 
 Reporters surely ought to have evinced a feeling of sym- 
 pathy with the great and good object of the Institution, 
 and to have regretted the insufficiency of the funds neces- 
 sary for its support and management ; but who can be so 
 blind as not to discern their intentions ? 
 
 XXIII. — " It is necessary to mention here a 
 difficulty felt with regard to the statistics of medi- 
 cal attendance in Jerusalem — a difficulty not un- 
 known elsewhere. The figures given of medical 
 attendance are these : — 
 
 Attendance per annum at Rothschild's 
 
 Hospital 21,000 
 
 Missionary Hospital 20,000 
 
 At D^in -fi|T2l " Bikoor Holim," . . 15,000 
 
 At other medical charities 10,000 
 
 66,000 
 
 which shows an average of about five visits per 
 head per annum, for every Jewish soul in Jerusa- 
 lem. The reasons given for this state of matters 
 were the familiar ones, — that the doctor is sent for 
 on account of poverty, not illness, and that the so- 
 called patients attend at the hospital for pastime."
 
 31 . 
 
 Here, again, we have to observe, not only do the Reporters 
 state what is contrary to truth, but they even contradict 
 their own words. In Par. XXII. they say, " It is greatly to be 
 regretted that the highly-esteemed medical attendant can- 
 not devote the whole of his time to Jewish requirements." 
 In the statement now before us, they assert, that the 
 doctor is sent for on account of poverty, not illness. The 
 fact is, " they have bent their bows of attack like an enemy." 
 It appears, as if their object had only been, in the words of 
 the prophet, " to destroy the wall of the daughter of Zion, 
 and those who enter her gates ; thus they have seen for her 
 but vain things." It is incomprehensible to us, how a man 
 who passes by the name of " Israel " could feel a desire to 
 suck, as it were, the blood of innocent persons and " laugh 
 at the trial of the guiltless ! " 
 
 There we may see the patients, at the time when they 
 assemble in hosts at the entrance of the Hospital, gnawing 
 from pain their flesh with their teeth, until they are admitted 
 according to the number into the presence of the doctor, and, 
 notwithstanding such a fact, the Reporters assert that the 
 patients attend the hospitals for pastime. 
 
 Referring to a deputation that came from Hebron to 
 represent their great need of a resident doctor, the Reporters 
 say: 
 
 XXIV. — " These people appeared very poor, 
 and were certainly the most helpless Jews seen in 
 the Holy Land." 
 
 Here again are the Reporters displaying their great knowledge 
 of physiognomy. Their great wisdom assisted them so far,
 
 32 
 
 that they became impressed with that, which was contrary 
 to the real state of things. It made the Hebron people, 
 when they heard of it, burst into laughter (the Repre- 
 sentatives of the Hebron Congregation who spoke to the 
 Reporters being in good circumstances and in full enjoyment 
 of health). 
 
 XXV. — " In this paragraph the Reporters 
 speak on the subject of the distribution of charita- 
 ble contributions received in Jerusalem." 
 
 The Reporters here dilate on the mode of the distribution. 
 They speak against the charitable donors, and make ridi- 
 cule of them, they scorn the names of persons appointed 
 to distribute, and treat with contempt the recipients of 
 charitable gifts. 
 
 With regard to the statement referring to the amount of 
 the remittances received, and the money which is distri- 
 buted, they have been " groping in the dark like the blind " 
 they have been entering into a mass of superficial en- 
 quiries, and have produced nothing more than, as it were, an 
 insignificant fragment of an earthen vessel. As for our 
 opinion on this subject, we can only say : Of those who 
 make their free will offerings of charity ; of all who take 
 an active part in this matter, or are instrumental in causing 
 others to do the good work, " Happy is their lot," for they 
 are assisting in enabling our brethren to dwell in the Holy 
 Land, " Blessed be they of the Lord." The overseers, our 
 esteemed Rabanim, who distribute the remittances in the 
 several Congregations, and do all their work most faithfully, 
 with the purest intentions, " may the Eternal continue to be 
 with them." There are some in the Congregations who take
 
 33 
 
 no share whatsoever of charitable contributions ; there are 
 others who receive the amount assigned to them by the 
 treasurers abroad ; both parties consist of pure and upright 
 men ; all the remittances here received are accompanied by 
 regular accounts, and their distribution is also made 
 in the same way with the utmost accuracy. Every one 
 receives the exact amount allotted to him without the least 
 diminution of the original sum. 
 
 The whole information given on this subject by the 
 Reporters could only have been derived from most insigni- 
 ficant or malicious sources. 
 
 They have been most particular in stating what 
 they have heard from men who take delight in casting 
 contempt on those who devote their time to the study of 
 the Law of God. 
 
 With regard to the amount every individual generally 
 receives from the Chalukah, we beg to refer you to the lists 
 of recipients which are kept in every Congregation, and you 
 will yourself see whether any one in Jerusalem receives 
 more than 50 or 60 francs a year, with the exception of 
 those who come from Germany and Hungary, who are 
 specially favoured by their countrymen, and consist only of 
 a small congregation. 
 
 XXVI. — " A strong instance of the power 
 wielded (by the distributors of the Chalukah) came 
 under observation. A Library was founded by a 
 few of the inhabitants in honour of Sir Moses 
 Montefiore, but was at once placed in interdict. 
 Not the offending books only, which might, if they 
 existed, have been removed, but the whole Library, 
 c
 
 34 
 
 and whoever entered it. The reason alleged was 
 that it contained books opposed to the religious 
 opinions of those in authority. At the present 
 moment the Libraiy is closed, and the books, 
 collected with much labour, are unavailable." 
 
 The above remark also may give you an idea of the cor- 
 rectness of the whole of this Report. We should like to 
 know who the man was that led the Reporters again into a 
 wilderness where there is no way. It could not have been 
 the Pasha, nor the Consuls, nor the Merchants of the place, for 
 none of them were in a position to give them any such infor- 
 mation. It appears that even the Reporters themselves had 
 not been in that Library ; for the latter make use in their 
 statement, referring to offending books, of the expression, 
 " which might, if they existed, have been removed ;" indi- 
 cating that they (the Reporters themselves) could not tell 
 whether such in reality existed or not. The truth is, that 
 the representatives of that library would not have dared 
 to take these gentlemen to the house ; for what would they 
 have seen there ? A small room with a little book-case con- 
 taining a few Karaite books, and some other works of little 
 importance ; and it was for that reason that the gentlemen 
 of the Beth Din in Jerusalem cautioned the people by a 
 proclamation in the Synagogue to keep away from a place 
 which they considered unsuitable to the preservation of 
 their religious sentiments. There was no language of ex- 
 communication of any kind ever made use of on this 
 occasion. It was not so much on account of the books, 
 though they were of a nature to attract the people's 
 attention to subjects which might lead them away from 
 the perusal of more useful books, better calculated to im- 
 prove their spiritual welfare, but on account of the associa- 
 tion with individuals of an indifferent character whom the
 
 35 
 
 young students of an innocent mind and heart would have 
 met there. Please, Sir Moses, during your stay in Jeru- 
 salem, make enquiries respecting their character, and you 
 will then be able to ascertain whether the gentlemen of the 
 Beth Din have not acted in this instance in accordance with 
 the injunction of our Holy Law, by cautioning the people 
 not to enter the place. 
 
 It is the duty of a Beth Din in Israel to watch over similar 
 proceedings, and we, the undersigned, for this reason ap- 
 proved of their proclamation. At the same time we hastened 
 to rescue the honour of yourself, Sir Moses, by giving you 
 due information of the nature of the institution, so as to 
 cause you to have your name removed from the library in 
 question, which, in our opinion, the promoters have estab- 
 lished with an intention of deceiving you, and of blinding 
 the eyes of people who live far away from Jerusalem, and 
 who, on hearing that the institution bore your name, would 
 have rendered every necessary support to it. 
 
 By the blessing of God you have thus not become instru- 
 mental in the promotion of that which, we thought, was 
 leading to sin. 
 
 XXVII. — " Shoemakers, tailors, etc., employ 
 themselves principally in repairing manufactured 
 goods, owing to the modest want of the natives 
 being in small request, and mostly supplied from 
 Damascus." 
 
 Our causes of surprise continue to increase more and more. 
 What object have the Reporters in adhering to the path 
 pointed out to them by their guides, even in matters which 
 are not intended directly to degrade their brethren ? Is it not
 
 36 
 
 a well known fact here in the Holy City, that from the very 
 moderate price which is demanded for new articles of dress, 
 even a poor man procures for himself only new clothes ! Any 
 garment, having once been worn by one person, is never 
 intended to be used here by another, except in the case of 
 the most humble persons in the City. 
 
 XX VIII. — " The garden founded by Sir Moses 
 Montefiore at Jaffa does not pay its expenses." 
 
 Again, in reference to this land, we have been informed 
 that you, Sir Moses, during your stay at Jaffa, had the op- 
 portunity of being much pleased with it. We have heard 
 that you found there nearly 1,000 trees producing fruit, that 
 you have seen there the well, and all the apparatus belong- 
 ing to it, as well as the cistern and the adjoining houses, in 
 perfect order, with the exception of one room, in which the 
 roof required repair. 
 
 XXIX.— "The chief capability of the 
 Jewish inhabitants of Palestine, of every country 
 and denomination, seems to be his marvellous 
 facility for dealing. His endeavours in this direc- 
 tion are limited; there is little or no field for him. 
 It was a general cause of complaint that small 
 tradesmen have to pay such exorbitant interest for 
 loans — from 10 per cent, to 50 per cent. — that their 
 business is generally swamped by the constant 
 drain to which they are thus subjected. 
 
 " Immediately connected with the capabilities of 
 the land and its inhabitants is the question of the 
 wants of the people, as expressed by themselves, 
 and to their credit, be it said, these were chiefly of 
 a nature which manifested the willingness of many
 
 37 
 
 of them to emerge from their present condition, if 
 they were only enabled to help themselves." 
 
 What a great change everyone must now perceive between 
 the former and the present statements in this Report. A 
 good and upright man may thereby form his opinion res- 
 pecting the value to be attached to the whole document. It 
 would, indeed, have been most fortunate for the Reporter if 
 his signature had not been affixed to it at all (alluding to 
 the name signed first in the Report), but, having done so, 
 the document ought to have been kept concealed. In this 
 case it might have been considered an honourable act of 
 theirs, and we, the undersigned, should not have found it 
 necessary to say a word against any one of the Reporters. 
 
 XXX. — " Here the wants are set forth, which 
 if supplied, would materially improve the condition 
 of the Jews in Palestine. They are twenty-two in 
 number." 
 
 Here the authors of the Report enumerate twenty-two 
 remedies for the improvement of the condition of our 
 brethren in the Holy Land. The real remedies we have 
 ourselves already enumerated and made known to you, Sir 
 Moses, and the honourable Committee. " You, Gentlemen," 
 we would say to the authors of the Report, " who came 
 amongst us as clever, but uninvited physicians, are now 
 making experiments on the patients by abundant bleedings, 
 and satiate them with bitter herbs, which you mixed up 
 with your remedies ; you would have done well by retaining 
 at least the efficient remedies which we proposed, together 
 with those which you thought proper to add to our list. 
 
 " It is a cause of deep regret to us," we would further say
 
 38 
 
 to them, " that every one who reads your Report cannot but 
 perceive therein a spirit of great hatred manifested against 
 those who observe the Holy Law and fear God, which un- 
 fortunately has caused you to go out of the right path, and 
 has led you into the crooked thorny road that encircles the 
 blooming rose which, thank God, in our days breathes an 
 aromatic fragrance. Ye only," we say, " went round about 
 the heavenly garden outside, and had no eyes to see all that 
 exists beyond the thorny fence. You did not perceive," we 
 maintain, "the goodly vine shooting forth her branches, and 
 the boughs thereof, which, like the mighty cedar, rejoice 
 God and man ! It was your intention, we morever believe, 
 to lower, in your Report, the honour of Zion, but you will 
 never succeed in this respect ; for thus the Eternal has 
 vouchsafed — 
 
 ' No weapon that is formed against thee (Jerusalem) 
 shall prosper, and every tongue that shall rise against thee 
 in judgment thou shalt condemn. This is the heritage of 
 the servants of the Lord, and their righteousness is of me, 
 saith the Lord.' — Is. liv. 17." 
 
 We are ashamed to hear from the learned belonging to 
 other nations their great surprise at such an act committed 
 by one of our own brethren. " How strange," they, in de- 
 riding terms exclaim, " does it appear that these Reporters 
 have banished from their hearts every feeling of nation- 
 ality ? How surprising it is," they say, " to find that they 
 (the Reporters) had not even taken a lesson from the 
 learned of other nations who visited the Holy Land ! The 
 latter, from pure attachment to the Holy Land, are glad to
 
 39 
 
 find something good to praise, and to make it known to 
 the world, showing love to the people of God, and to speak 
 of them in sevenfold praise ; but ye," they observe, " have 
 not acted like the good of other nations." 
 
 " Your Report," we (the writers of this letter) further 
 say unto you, "has been printed in order to perpetuate 
 its contents, but yet it will never prove a stumbling-block 
 to the inhabitants of Jerusalem, as you thought. No ; 
 your Report will only remain a lasting remembrance of 
 the wrong you intended to do. We tell you, when the 
 Sun of Moses (Sir Moses Montefiore) will rise, the Sun of 
 him, who, for the sake of Zion, will not hold his peace, 
 will not rest, until the righteousness thereof go forth again 
 as brightness, for he will never feel fatigued in his efforts 
 thoroughly to investigate every matter in Jerusalem ; then 
 ye will be sorry for what you have done, by means of 
 the statement you made in the Report, and you will 
 then undoubtedly acknowledge the wrong you have 
 done. You will say, 'we have sinned, and perverted 
 the truth.' You will justify our proceedings, even forgive 
 our having been compelled to speak against your sense of 
 honour. You will say, ' You have judged rightly, in strict 
 accordance with our Holy Law; for you were in duty 
 bound to rescue the honour of Jerusalem and our Torah. 
 The consideration of no person whatever could have induced 
 you to act otherwise.' When thus you, the Authors of the 
 Report," we say, " will repent, your hearts will be healed, 
 and God will grant you His forgiveness." 
 
 Addressing ourselves again to you, Sir, we beg leave thus 
 to beseech you, Sir Moses, our chief; you who have so often 
 averted the disgrace which the enemies of the hosts of Israel 
 intended to cast upon the nation, God having on all occasions 
 crowned your efforts with success, so as to enable you to 
 raise the glory of Israel. Our Heavenly Father, having
 
 40 
 
 brought you to this place when in an advanced age, which we 
 pray may yet long continue, in an age when we could not even 
 be justified in entertaining the hope of again seeing your 
 countenance, there could have been, it appears to us, no other 
 reason for the enjoyment of so extraordinary a privilege than 
 the will that you should become instrumental in the rescue 
 of the honour of Zion, the honour of thousands of the most 
 worthy of our brethren, who live there in a state of mourn- 
 ing for her departed glory — in the rescue of the honour of 
 our Holy Law and those who devote themselves to the study 
 thereof. 
 
 Rise then, Sir, lift yourself up, even as a young lion ; 
 walk about and see everything with your own eyes, make 
 all the necessary enquiries, so as to be enabled to throw a 
 clear light on each particular subject. By your enlightened 
 judgment all the lovers of Zion, and all the friends of that 
 which is regarded as holy unto Israel, will be guided. 
 
 Reiterating our heartfelt wishes, we say, " May this, your 
 arrival in the City of Peace, be blest with peace ; may you 
 and your friends remain in the full enjoyment of peace ; may 
 all your acts in this City be illuminated by the light of 
 Heaven. This is the fervent prayer of your devoted 
 brethren, who bless, appreciate, and hold you in the highest 
 estimation ; the prayer of those who are delighted at the 
 cheerful and happy appearance of your countenance. 
 
 MEYER AUERBACH, 
 Formerly Chief Rabbi of Kalisch, now Rosh 
 Beth-Din of the several German Conorega- 
 tions in Jerusalem. 
 
 SAMUEL SALANT. 
 
 W
 
 A NARRATIVE 
 
 FORTY DAYS' SOJOURN IN THE HOLY LAND, 
 
 DEVOTED TO AN INVESTIGATION OF THE STATE OF SCHOOLS, 
 COLLEGES, AND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 
 
 GIVEN TO THE FRIENDS AND WELL-WISHERS OF ZION, 
 
 BT 
 
 SIR MOSES MONTEFIORE, Bart., F.R.S., 
 
 ON HIS EETTJKN EROM HIS SEVENTH PILGRIMAGE 
 TO THE LAND OE PROMISE. 
 
 9 ELLUL, 5635. SEPTEMBER 9th, 1875.
 
 TO THE FRIENDS AND WELL-WISHERS 
 OF ZION. 
 
 Although it had been, by the blessing of God, my good 
 fortune to visit the Holy Land more frequently perhaps 
 than many others among you, I still longed — partly from 
 the great attachment I ever felt towards the Children of 
 Zion, and partly from the daily increasing interest which 
 people of all different denominations appear now, more than 
 ever, to evince in the welfare of Jerusalem — to see that 
 country again, and to salute once more the devout ad- 
 herents to our religion in Israel's most worthy Commu- 
 nities. 
 
 For the realisation of this my ardent desire, an oppor- 
 tunity now presented itself to me by a correspondence 
 which has taken place between me and the representatives 
 of the Hebrew Congregations, and several well known and 
 trustworthy persons in the Holy Land. 
 
 It was in the year 5634 a.m., on the 15th of Ab (29th 
 July, 1874), consequent upon the great sufferings which our 
 brethren in Palestine had then to endure from scarcity of 
 bread, and from want of means to procure it, that I addressed 
 a letter to the above authorities, with a view of ascertaining
 
 44 
 
 from them whether any of their suggestions regarding the 
 best mode of ameliorating the condition of our brethren, 
 either by agriculture or by mechanical work, within or 
 without the house, or by some suitable business pursuits — * 
 if clearly and distinctly set forth to them — might not, under 
 present circumstances, be more favourably received by the 
 well wishers of Zion than in the years 5599-1839 and 5626- 
 1866, when I also entreated them, as in the present in- 
 stance, to assist me with their judicious counsel. 
 
 A short time elapsed, and I had the gratification of re- 
 ceiving replies from every one of those whom I had thought 
 proper to address, containing full particulars on every sub- 
 ject of my enquiry. 
 
 With the intention of assisting the London Committee of 
 Deputies of the British Jews in their endeavours to im- 
 prove the condition of our brethren in the Holy Land, I 
 presented those replies to the Palestine Committee of that 
 Board, by whom they were subsequently published, together 
 with the translation of my own letter, addressed to the 
 Jewish Congregations in the Holy Land, on the 15th of 
 Ab, 5634, for circulation among their members. 
 
 However satisfactory those letters may have been to me, 
 and to all those who, like myself, had the opportunity of 
 knowing the Holy Land, it came to my notice that there 
 were still some persons who expressed great doubts regard- 
 ing the correctness of all the statements made therein, and, 
 being afraid lest such doubts might eventually, when spread 
 among the Hebrew Communities, damp the ardour of those 
 who appeared ready to offer a helping hand in the great 
 object in view, I resolved, notwithstanding all the entreaties 
 and remonstrances of dear relatives and esteemed friends, to
 
 45 
 
 proceed at once to Jerusalem, so as to enable me personally 
 to confer with those who addressed me in the letter in 
 question, as well as with others, whom I had not the 
 opportunity of seeing during my former visits to the Holy 
 Land. 
 
 I purpose in this my narrative of a forty days' sojourn in 
 the Holy Land, simply to state what I have seen and 
 what I have heard, and to accompany all important state- 
 ments by documents emanating from the heads of the 
 several Communities or other persons of undoubted veracity, 
 and confirming, in every respect, the highly favourable opinion 
 I hitherto entertained of our Brethren in Palestine. 
 
 As on all former occasions, when I had striven to con- 
 tribute, by my feeble exertions, towards the promotion of any 
 cause of humanity, so, now, on the present occasion, I deem 
 it my pleasing duty to express my deep gratitude to Her 
 Majesty's Government, especially to Lord Derby, Her Ma- 
 jesty's Secretary for Foreign Affairs, for having so promptly 
 and graciously procured for me a Vizierial letter, and, in 
 compliance with my request, furnished me with letters of 
 introduction to Mr. Noel Moore, Her Majesty's Consul in 
 Jerusalem, and to Vice- Admiral Sir James Drummond, the 
 commander of Her Majesty's fleet stationed at Malta. 
 
 I am also desirous of stating how much I feel indebted 
 to His Excellency Musurus Pasha, the Turkish Ambas- 
 sador in London, for having favoured me with letters of 
 introduction to His Excellency the Pasha of Jerusalem, and 
 other authorities of the Turkish Government in the Holy 
 Land ; and that I am under special obligations to His 
 Excellency, Count Schouwaloff, the Russian Ambassador 
 at our Court, for having kindly favoured me with an
 
 46 
 
 introduction to the Consul-General of His Imperial Ma- 
 jesty the Emperor of Russia, in Jerusalem ; all of which 
 were of great service to me. 
 
 It is also a source of high gratification to record here my 
 warmest acknowledgements to the much-esteemed spiritual 
 heads of our Congregations — the Rev. Dr. N.M.Adler and the 
 Rev. Dr. B. Artom — who offered up in their respective 
 synagogues special prayers for the safety of my journey and 
 the success of my self-imposed mission; likewise to the 
 Ministers of several Metropolitan and Provincial Congrega- 
 tions, and to the reverend gentlemen in my own College and 
 Synagogue at Ramsgate, who implored the God of our fore- 
 fathers for my protection. Their prayers and blessings made 
 me feel strong, and my heart became full of joy when I 
 thought of the prospect of seeing again Jerusalem the Holy 
 City. 
 
 Previous to my departure I had the happiness, on Monday 
 night, the 12th Sivan, of completing a min ^iSD, Sepher 
 Torah, the twenty-second written for me by the well-known 
 Scribe, R. Zebi Hirsch Wlosin, of Wilna, which I immedi- 
 ately, in compliance with a request of the President of the 
 Brighton Congregation, forwarded to him for the use of our 
 brethren in their new synagogue ; and on the following da} T » 
 Tuesday, the loth of June, after having offered up my 
 prayers in the mausoleum of her who, like a guardian-angel, 
 so often sustained me on my journeys with her loving affec- 
 tion and judicious counsel, I left East Cliff about mid-day 
 for Dover. 
 
 It was my intention to lose as little time as possible, and 
 I was fully prepared to leave Dover, en route for Brindisi 
 the next day, but a strong gale sprung up which detained
 
 47 
 
 us till Thursday, when, by the blessing of God, a calm sea 
 and a blue sky made us enjoy one of the finest passages 
 across the Channel. 
 
 The fine weather now, like the pillar of cloud during the 
 day and the pillar of fire during the night in ancient times, 
 accompanied us all along our journey, and, with a heart full 
 of gratitude, I may say that during full three months, 
 whether on land or on sea, the most delightful weather en- 
 hanced the pleasure of our journey. 
 
 By the advice of my medical attendant, I was only per- 
 mitted to travel short stages, but I endeavoured, in all 
 places at which I had to stop on the road, to communicate 
 with the Jewish congregations, where such existed, with the 
 view of ascertaining their intentions regarding Jerusalem. 
 
 We arrived at Paris the same day, and remained there 
 till Sunday, when we proceeded, via Dijon, Macon and Aix- 
 les-Bains, to Turin ; which City we reached on the 24th. 
 To recover from the fatigues of the journey, occasioned by 
 the extremely hot and oppressive weather, we stayed in 
 Turin till Sunday, the 27th, when we departed from 
 thence to Venice, to await there the arrival of the steamer, 
 which was to take us to Alexandria. 
 
 It was in the ancient Hebrew community of that place, 
 where a subject closely connected with the interests of the 
 Holy Land was first broached to me on my journey. 
 
 Signora F. C. S. Kandegger-Friedenberg, a lady of con- 
 siderable talent and devotion to the cause of Jerusalem, was 
 here brought under my notice. She is the authoress of a 
 book entitled Strenna Israelitica, in which she endeavours
 
 48 
 
 to arouse sympathy for our Brethren in the Land of 
 Promise. 
 
 Signora Randegger-Friedenberg complained of her exer- 
 tions being often met by many of her friends with deri- 
 sion. Nevertheless, I was assured by others, she would 
 not cease addressing editors and representatives of Hebrew 
 communities in Italy on her favourite subject. She has an 
 idea of establishing in the Holy Land a Female Agricul- 
 tural School, at the annual outlay of 30,000 Austrian florins, 
 to be raised by subscriptions. I would not express an 
 opinion on the subject, but I promised to put her in com- 
 munication with parties most interested in promoting in- 
 dustrial schemes, with a view of serving her purpose, 
 
 Having been informed of the arrival of Vice- Admiral the 
 Hon. Sir James Drummond, I availed myself of the oppor- 
 tunity to present to him a letter of introduction, which, as 
 stated before, I had the honour of receiving from Her Ma- 
 jesty's Government. The Admiral most kindly assured me 
 of his willingness to do anything I might require for facili- 
 tating my journey ; but made to me at the same time the 
 observation, that news had reached him from Beyrout to 
 the effect that the cholera had broken out at Damascus, and 
 the spreading of that epidemic along the coast was greatly 
 apprehended. 
 
 This unexpected news at first somewhat startled me, for I 
 well knew the danger to which we should be exposed in a hot 
 climate, in the most unhealthy season ; but I soon recov- 
 ered my former resolution. It appeared to me that I had a 
 certain duty to perform — a duty owing to our religion, to 
 our beloved brethren in the Holy Land ; nothing therefore, 
 I made up my mind, should prevent me proceeding on my
 
 49 
 
 journey. I communicated my resolution to the Admiral, 
 who kindly expressed his hope for my safe return. 
 
 Returning to the hotel, I heard that the sad news of the 
 cholera being in Syria, and the necessity of remaining in 
 quarantine on leaving that country, had also reached my 
 compagnons de voyage, and they all entreated me to give up 
 the idea of going to the Holy Land ; but I would not yield ; 
 indeed, with every persuasive word of theirs to make me 
 return, my resolution became stronger and stronger to 
 proceed. 
 
 Thursday evening, July 1st, being the eve of the anniver- 
 sary of the opening of my Synagogue in Ramsgate,and the lay- 
 ing of the foundation stone of the College — 1WI2 aIK TXHW* 
 n^PPI, " Yesheebat Ohel Moshd ve-Yehoodit, " erected to 
 the memory of my lamented wife, I proceeded to the Syna- 
 gogue ; there we recited the Psalms we usually read in our 
 own Synagogue and College, at the conclusion of which Dr. 
 Loewe offered up an especial prayer for the occasion. 
 
 I recall with great pleasure the cordial welcome I received 
 from my worthy co-religionists and their excellent Chief 
 Rabbi, Signor Abramo Lattes ; also from his son, Signor 
 Moses Lattes, who presented me with a copy of his work 
 entitled " De Vita et Scriptis Eliae Kapsali," and from Signor 
 Rabbino Porto. 
 
 It was impossible to admit all the Congregations into the 
 Synagogue, but a great number of its worthy members filled 
 the whole square around the sacred edifice and the adjoining 
 streets. 
 
 On my leaving the Synagogue, an extremely well trained 
 
 D
 
 50 
 
 and efficient choir, stationed along the street I had to pass, 
 sang most melodiously the prayer of the Congregation for 
 my safe journey, and as I stepped into the gondola, the salu- 
 tations and sincere wishes of a large concourse of people 
 accompanied me for some distance. 
 
 I must not omit mentioning here a pleasing incident, 
 which made me remember the large-hearted benevolence of 
 our ancestors in the Bevis Marks Synagogue extended 
 even to their Brethren in remote countries. 
 
 Signor Soave, the efficient Professor of a school belonging 
 to the Spanish Congregation in Venice, having recently 
 been engaged by the Representatives of the Spanish Syna- 
 gogue to search for some ancient Hebrew, Portuguese, and 
 Spanish documents in their archives, happened to find 
 among them a letter addressed to the Treasurer of an 
 Association known by the name D) ! Qt£' |V"T£) T\Etop " Caisse 
 
 for the Redemption of Captives," by the Portuguese Con- 
 gregation, London, bearing the date of Iyar the 1st, 5465, 
 May, 1705, in which the Gabai Mosse de Medina, in the 
 name of the Mahamad ID^D, makes a remittance of 60 
 ducados de banco towards the assistance or redemption of 
 three Hebrew slaves brought to Venice in a Maltese vessel. 
 The Congregation complaining of having to maintain more 
 poor than any other Kahal, never asking, they say, any 
 other persons to assist them, so as to make the burden 
 lighter unto them, nevertheless forward the above 
 contribution. 
 
 The sympathy which Hebrew Communities have at all 
 times evinced towards their suffering brethren has always 
 been proverbial ; it is one of the noblest traits in the character 
 of Israel, and we have every reason to hope that our Cum-
 
 51 
 
 munities will continue to retain that characteristic, espe- 
 cially when it concerns the aid of those, who sacrifice all 
 their worldly interest to the service of God, and the glori- 
 fication of our holy Religion. 
 
 On Friday, the 2nd July, TlftD EHA B>iO l*\y we went 
 on board the Geelong, and after a delightful sail of six days, 
 touching at Ancona and Brindisi, we reached Alexandria 
 on Thursday, the 8th. By the special kindness of the 
 Captain, I was permitted to remain on board till the 
 steamer, which was to take us to Jaffa, was ready to leave 
 the port. This proved a very great comfort, as I experience 
 great difficulty in descending and ascending from one ship 
 to another. He arranged to bring his own steamer as near 
 as possible, so as to enable me to go on board the Jaffa 
 steamer without difficulty. The Rev. the Haham Bashi, 
 and the Representatives of the several Congregations, kindly 
 came on board to welcome my arrival, and entreated me to 
 visit their Community. I would gladly have acceded to 
 their wish, had my strength allowed me to do so, but the 
 heat of the weather was almost overpowering, and I dared 
 not venture to go on shore. They then tendered me their 
 good wishes for the continuation of my journey, but whilst 
 doing so, could not conceal their apprehensions that, in 
 consequence of the spread of the cholera along the coast 
 of Syria, the steamer, possibly, they said, would not 
 enter the Port of Jaffa at all. Kind as their intentions were 
 to dissuade me from going any further, I repeated to them the 
 resolution I had taken, adding that should the steamer not 
 enter Jaffa, I would proceed to Beyrout, or find my way 
 to Khaifa. 
 
 It is pleasing to me to have here an opportunity of stating 
 how much I feel indebted to Messrs. Kataui Bev, Baron
 
 52 
 
 Manasseh and Sons, Messrs. Abraham Piha and Pariente, 
 for the extreme kindness and attention they have shewn to 
 me during my short stay in the harbour ; assisting my 
 friends Dr. Loewe and Ed. Aikin, Esquire, who landed at 
 Alexandria, to make the necessary arrangements for our 
 journey, and forwarding for me some cases to Jaffa. It was 
 a source of great pleasure to me to hear from those gentle- 
 men of the high position which several of our co-religionists 
 in Eg}^pt occupy, and of the gracious and considerate man- 
 ner in which His Highness the Khedive treats the com- 
 munity. I was equally delighted with the description Dr. 
 Loewe gave me of the magnificent Synagogue built at the 
 sole expense of Baron Manasseh, the head of the firm of 
 " Messrs. Manasseh and Sons." 
 
 It was with regret we bade good-bye to the excellent 
 Captain Fraser and the officers of the " Geelong ; " every 
 one of them showed us the utmost kindness and attention. 
 Long continued cheers from all on board, conveying the 
 heartfelt wishes for a prosperous voyage, followed me as I 
 left the vessel. 
 
 Friday, the 9th of July, we embarked on board the 
 " Ettore," an Austrian steamer. The Haham Bashi, and the 
 Representatives of the community, again came to see me 
 previous to my departure, beseeching me to visit their Con- 
 gregation on my return from the Holy Land. Not antici- 
 pating a rigorous quarantine, I flattered myself with the 
 hope of being able to see our brethren and their institutions 
 at Alexandria, and I consequently promised them to comply 
 with their request ; but, unfortunately, as I shall have after- 
 wards occasion more particularly to state, my wishes have, 
 in this instance, not been realised. 
 
 As we were steaming out of the harbour, my spirits be-
 
 53 
 
 came buoyant in the extreme. God granted me His special 
 blessing to find myself again on the road to Jerusalem ; the 
 sea was calm as a lake, not a ripple to be seen on its glowing 
 mirror ; the accommodation on board the ship, the readiness 
 of the Austrian Captain and his officers to make every 
 arrangement for our comfort, all contributed to make me 
 utter heartfelt thanks to Him, who thus guided me under 
 the wings of His Heavenly protection. 
 
 I now examined my papers referring to the work I 
 purposed to do in the Holy Land, and I addressed my 
 formula of statistical accounts to the authorities of those 
 communities who had not been furnished with the same, 
 requesting them to give me all particulars in the form I 
 pointed out, so as to have them ready on my arrival in the 
 Holy Land. I also wrote to a number of gentlemen, 
 whose views on all important subjects I was anxious to 
 ascertain. With this and similar other occupations the 
 time passed, and the declining sun reminded me of the 
 approaching Sabbath. 
 
 That day has always been a particular object of delight 
 to me. By the kindness and civility of the people on 
 board, I was never interrupted in any way in the per- 
 formance of my religious duties. 
 
 Every Friday, as the Sabbath was about setting in, I 
 could light my Sabbath-lamp, which I always carried 
 with me, and I often had the gratification of seeing the 
 seven lights (emblems of the six days of creation, and the 
 seventh day of rest) burn as late as midnight, undis- 
 turbed by the motion of the vessel, even when going at 
 the rate of ten to eleven knots an hour. 
 
 We recited our prayers and "kidoosh," fc/HTp, the
 
 54 
 
 blessings of which were responded to by the sincere 
 " Amen " of those who joined me in prayer, and enjoyed 
 our Sabbath meal. 
 
 On the Sabbath morning I had always the satisfaction 
 of hearing, after the usual prayer, one of our Commen- 
 taries on the portion of the week expounded to me by 
 Dr. Loewe, and the rest of the day passed in pleasing 
 conversation on all that concerns our Brethren in the 
 Holy Land. 
 
 On board of the Ettore, that happiness became greatly 
 enhanced by the contemplation of the short distance 
 which now only separated me from the hallowed goal I 
 had in view. 
 
 Early in the morning (Sabbath, July the 10th) we 
 perceived an arm constructed of large square stones, 
 stretching out a long way into the sea, marking the road 
 leading to the harbour. The raging storms, however, 
 which often blow in this part, do not leave even those large 
 masses of stone in the place in which they were intended to 
 remain, and many of them are thrown about in all direc- 
 tions, so that the entrance to Port Said can only be 
 effected by great care on the part of the Pilot. 
 
 By the skill of our captain, and the blessing of God, we 
 entered safely into the harbour, and soon cast anchor, there 
 to remain for eight hours. 
 
 The traveller may now imagine himself standing as it 
 were between two stupendous gates, arched over by the 
 curves of a blue heaven, opening their majestic portals in 
 two opposite directions. The one, represented by the Suez
 
 55 
 
 Canal, to enter the lands of India, Japan, and China ; the 
 other represented by the Mediterranean port, to enter the 
 sea which leads him to the continents of Europe and the 
 Western hemisphere. 
 
 It is a glorious sight to behold two large steamers of im- 
 mense power, the one laden with, who can tell how valuable 
 a cargo on board, gliding out of the Suez Canal with ma- 
 jestic grandeur, and the other with equal splendour just 
 enter, laden, not with a cargo of gold, but with a freight of 
 human beings, full of intellect, enterprise, and invention, 
 intended, as a return for the gold, to enlighten and benefit 
 the dark and ignorant races in the East. And whilst this 
 majestic movement engaged our attention, a number of 
 small steamers, like living creatures, moved along in all 
 directions to cleanse the roadstead from sand or other ob- 
 stacles which might dangerously intercept the course of 
 larger vessels ; the noise produced by these little engines 
 leaving an impression on the ear almost as if they were 
 intended to enliven the stillness of the place. 
 
 But my object is not to give here a description of Port 
 Said as a place of great importance to the European mer- 
 chant. I am desirous of pointing out its importance to the 
 cultivator of land, or general trader, in the Holy Land, in 
 the vicinity of Jaffa. The passengers from Europe to India, 
 or from India to Europe, generally avail themselves of the 
 opportunity to go on shore after a long and fatiguing jour- 
 ney, and are gladly willing to pay a high price for a basket 
 of strawberries, pears, or apples, bunches of grapes, and 
 vegetables. The stewards of any of those large steamers 
 pay a high price, I was told, for fruit of the above descrip- 
 tion. 
 
 Should it ever be in the power of the well-wishers of
 
 56 
 
 Zion to send a European gardener to the land they 
 may happen to own in Jaffa, they would surely find a good 
 market in Port Said. 
 
 While on board of the " Ettore," I had the advantage of 
 making the acquaintance of Mr. Julius Loytved, the Danish 
 consul at Beyrout, a gentleman who takes a great interest 
 in the colonies established by the Wurtemberg people in 
 Khaifa and Jaffa. He gave me a description of what they 
 have already accomplished — the numerous houses they 
 have built, and the land which they have so successfully 
 cultivated. I promised to inspect their houses and fields, as 
 far as practicable, when in Jaffa, with a view of comparing 
 their capabilities with those of our own brethren. He also 
 favoured me with all the particulars regarding the British 
 Syrian Schools, established in twenty-two different places 
 in Syria, at the cost of £2,372 7s. 5d. per annum, compris- 
 ing the payment of teachers, pupil-teachers, Bible-women, 
 wages, board, books, clothing, furniture, rent, travelling, 
 postage, sundries, and building repairs. 
 
 Hearing from that gentleman how liberally all the insti- 
 tutions for social improvement in Syria are supported by 
 the English people, it struck me, if the well-wishers of Zion 
 were to become acquainted with the zeal and liberality 
 which other nations manifest towards the improvement 
 of the condition of the people in Syria, they might be moved 
 thereby, and might well exclaim " Are we to stand in the 
 background, neglecting our Talmud Torah schools, colleges, 
 and benevolent institutions in the Holy Land, while the 
 adherents to other creeds are actively bestirring themselves 
 to make every possible sacrifice for the cause they ad- 
 vocate ! " 
 
 Port Said, I regre't to say, according to a statement made
 
 57 
 
 to me by two Sceurs de Charite', one an Italian and the 
 other a Prussian, harbours several individuals whose cha- 
 racter will not bear investigation. They assured me they had 
 witnessed, during a stay of nearly seven years which they 
 made in that place, many an outrage on Society. I hope 
 those of our brethren, who happen to have taken up their 
 abode in that place, may never act in a manner to bring 
 upon themselves the reproach of any of their fellowbeings, 
 but, on the contrary, will always strive to make the name 
 of Israel an appellation of the highest distinction. 
 
 We were here detained, in consequence of the large 
 quantity of cargo to be taken on board, longer than it was 
 originally the intention of the captain, and it was nearly 
 11 o'clock when the order was given to weigh anchor. 
 
 Myriads of celestial luminaries, each of them as large and 
 bright almost as any of the radiant planets in the western 
 horizon, were now emitting their silvery rays of light in the 
 spangled canopy over us. Sure and steady our ship steered 
 towards the coast of the land so dearly beloved, summoning 
 all to sleep, but few of the passengers retired that night. 
 Every one of them appeared to be in meditation. It was 
 silent all around us — silent, so that the palpitation of the 
 heart might almost be heard. It was, as if everyone had 
 the words on his lips, " Ah, when will our eyes be gladdened 
 by the first glance of the Holy Land ? When shall we be 
 able to set foot on the spot which was the long wished for 
 goal of our meditations ! " Such were that night the 
 feelings of every Gentile passenger on board. And what 
 other thoughts, I ask, could have engrossed the mind of 
 an Israelite ? The words of R. Yehooda Halevi, which he 
 uttered when entering the gates of Jerusalem, now came 
 into my mind : —
 
 58 
 
 oSiy 1 ? "port hhxri niafpna bs bhs tfbrp : nj$ 
 rana nete ^n'Sx n^iD*? ip# ip*?} ni-n inS 
 
 " The kingdoms of idolatry will all change and disappear ; 
 thy glory alone, O Zion, will last for ever ; for the Eternal 
 has chosen thee for His abode. Happy the man who is now 
 waiting in confiding hope to behold the rising glory of Thy 
 light." 
 
 " Praise be to God," I exclaimed, " who bestoweth gracious 
 favours on the undeserving, for on me He bestoweth all 
 good." 
 
 The Captain suggested that I should remain on board 
 until towards the evening, when the sea would be more calm 
 and safer for disembarkation, adding that he himself would 
 take me on shore, and I cheerfully availed myself of his 
 kindness. 
 
 At 4 o'clock P.M. Her Britannic Majesty's Vice-Consul at 
 Jaffa, Signor Amzalak, accompanied by his son, two Kawas- 
 ses, with their official batons and several attendants, 
 approached our ship. I noticed in his boat some of the 
 persons who had been in my service during my former visits 
 to Jerusalem. 
 
 The Consul, coming on board, requested me to go on shore 
 with him, stating, as an inducement, that he had with 
 him eight of the best sailors in Jaffa ; but, having previously 
 arranged to accept the invitation of the Captain, I was 
 obliged to decline his kind offer.
 
 59 
 
 It was a source of high gratification to me to see one of 
 my brethren, a native of the Holy Land, fill so high and 
 honourable an office. I knew his father well ; he was one of 
 the most worthy and charitable of our brethren in Jerusalem, 
 and I was now much pleased to have the opportunity of 
 evincing my regard to his son, whose abilities and high 
 character had been so honourably acknowledged by the 
 consular functions entrusted to him. Though I always feel 
 great reluctance to cause inconvenience to my friends, espe- 
 cially in the East, I could not, in the present instance, with- 
 stand the pressing invitation of the Consul to accept his 
 hospitality. He then left me to attend the necessary 
 arrangements for conveying me to his house outside the 
 town. 
 
 I may here be permitted to remark, that in giving these, 
 and, as I proceed, other particulars in connection with all my 
 movements in the Holy Land, my object is not to satisfy any 
 selfish feeling ; I desire only to convey to the friends of 
 Zion an idea of the kindness and attention, which our 
 brethren are ever ready to bestow on their well-wishers, and 
 the great encouragement the Turkish Government is always 
 prepared to offer to those, who in reality seek to promote the 
 interest of Jerusalem. 
 
 According to our previous arrangements we disembarked 
 just before sunset ; the boat was brought quite close to a 
 most convenient scala, which had been expressly constructed 
 for the Emperor of Austria, when he visited the Holy Land. 
 A detachment of soldiers drawn up in two lines, commanded 
 by the Kaimekam, presented arms. Deputations from the 
 several Congregations in Jerusalem, Jaffa, and Hebron bid 
 me welcome, and tendered me their congratulations on my 
 safe arrival ; and a large concourse of people almost over- 
 whelmed me with their salutations.
 
 60 
 
 After addressing a few words of grateful acknowledge- 
 ment to the Kaimekam and the Kadi, and the Deputies of 
 the several Congregations, I stepped into a chair, which, by 
 the kindness and judicious arrangement of the Vice-Consul, 
 stood in readiness for me, and was thus carried amidst 
 hundreds of followers to the outskirts of the town. There I 
 quitted the chair and entered a comfortable European 
 carriage, which conveyed me first to visit the tomb of my 
 much lamented friend, Dr. Hodgkin, then to Signor Am- 
 zalak's country house, situated on the high road to 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 To those who have never been in the Holy Land, and 
 entertain perhaps now an idea of proceeding thither, it may 
 not be uninteresting to know what kind of house my host 
 placed at my disposal. Possibly, should the latter become 
 informed of their intentions, he might favour them with all 
 those comforts, which it was my good fortune to be permitted 
 to enjoy, whilst under his hospitable roof 
 
 It was a good commodious house, situate in the centre of 
 a large garden, having a beautiful lofty hall, used as a re- 
 ception-room, in the centre, two spacious bedrooms on the 
 left, and a similar number of rooms on the right. A flight 
 of stairs led to the roof of the whole building, whence a 
 beautiful view could be obtained of the surrounding garden 
 and the sea. In front of the house four tents, ornamented in 
 Oriental style, were placed for the accommodation of our 
 party. 
 
 It must have been about 7 o'clock in the evening when 
 we arrived. The lady of the house (a daughter of one of the 
 former Hahamim of Hebron), surrounded by a most amiable 
 young family, and some friends of the house, gave us a
 
 01 
 
 friendly welcome. A refreshing beverage, consisting of a 
 mixture of almond and rose water, was handed round, and 
 ten minutes afterwards, a dinner was served in the best 
 European style. An almost endless variety of dishes, partly 
 Syrian and partly French, handed around by waiters speaking 
 French, Italian, Spanish, German, and Arabic, dressed in 
 French style, would have made us almost forget we were in 
 the Holy Land, had we not been every now and then reminded, 
 either by the overpowering heat or the bite of an intruding 
 mosquito, that, notwithstanding all the European luxuries, 
 we were still in the East. 
 
 The same evening I received a number of deputations 
 bringing me letters of welcome and congratulation from 
 Jerusalem. 
 
 The letter from the Representatives of the Holy City was 
 a cause of special delight to me ; I could not help reading it 
 over three or four times. The assurance of perfect peace and 
 unity among the several Congregations, repeatedly given 
 therein, and testified by everyone of the Representatives, is 
 one of the greatest blessings I thought man could pray for. 
 I counted not less than twenty-four signatures. For the 
 information of those who may not have had an opportunity 
 of ascertaining their names, I will give them here in full : — 
 
 Rev. Abraham Askenasi, Haham Bashi of the Sephardiim 
 
 Congregation. 
 Rev. Moses Viniste, Pakid or Treasurer. 
 Mr. Joseph Moshe' Valero, Gabbai of the Sephardiim Poor. 
 Rev. Raphael Meyer Fanidjil, President of the Committee of 
 
 the Sephardiim Congregation. 
 Rev. Haim Nissim Baruch, Member of the Committee. 
 Rev. David Bar Shimeon, Haham of the Morocco Conore- 
 
 gation.
 
 62 
 
 Rev. Meyer Auerbach, formerly Chief Rabbi of Kalisch, now 
 Rosh Beth-Din of the Ashkenazim Perooshini Congre- 
 gation. 
 
 Rev. Samuel Salant, of the Synagogue Beth Yaacob. 
 
 Rev. Jacob Jehuda Leb Lewe, of the Warsaw Congregation. 
 
 Rev. Abraham Eisenstein, of the Wilno Congregation. 
 
 Rev. Meyer Manikscht, of the Samot Congi'egation. 
 
 Rev. Isaac Jaffa Midaraya, of the Samot Congi'egation. 
 
 Rev. Moses Graf, of Minsk, of the Minsk Congregation. 
 
 Rev. Jochanan Hirsch Schlank, of the " Hod, " i.e., Holland 
 and Deutschland Congregation. 
 
 Rev. Meyer Luziner, of Minsk. 
 
 Rev. Moses Eliezer Dan Beharalbag, of the Reussen Con- 
 gregation. 
 
 Rev. Abraham Gutmann, of the Hungary Congregation. 
 
 Rev. Seeb Wolf Wolfmsohn. 
 
 Rev. Yitzchak Zebi Halevi, of the Suvalki Congregation. 
 
 Mr. Nissan Bak Halevi, of the Volhynian Congregation. 
 
 Mr. F. Friedmann. 
 
 Mr. I. EL Marcus, of the " Hod " Congregation. 
 
 ' © © 
 
 Mr. Abraham Minahawas, of the Khabad Congregation. 
 Mr. Ahron Lipkin. 
 
 Messengers were now despatched to ascertain the pro- 
 posed halting places on the road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, as 
 my state of health would not allow me to make the journey 
 in one day ; also to ascertain from those who had kindly 
 undertaken to take a house for me, how far they had suc- 
 ceeded in securing one in the City, situate in some healthy 
 neighbourhood, not far from the Jaffa Gate. 
 
 My work at Jaffa was confined, after having procured 
 statistical accounts from the Congi'egation, to seeing the 
 
 © © ' © 
 
 Estate known by the name of Biara, which was bought
 
 63 
 
 in the year 5615-1855, for the promotion of agriculture 
 among our brethren, and to visiting the tomb of my much- 
 lamented friend, the late Dr. Hodgkin ; and I thought, 
 after a stay of two days, I should be able to resume my 
 journey, but there were some difficulties about the house 
 in Jerusalem, and great inconveniences regarding the pro- 
 posal of encamping in tents — to start Tuesday at 7 p.m. 
 for Ramlah, there to pitch our tents at Birkat El- 
 djamoos ; Wednesday at Bab-el- Wad ; Thursday at Colonia ; 
 and Friday morning to enter Jerusalem. These, together with 
 the previous fatigues, from which I naturally felt the ne- 
 cessity of seeking to recover, made me resolve to stay, as 
 I then thought, a day longer. 
 
 I retired that night rather late, but I felt extremely 
 happy, and prayed to God with a heart overflowing with 
 gratitude. 
 
 Monday, 13th July. — Though I felt in the morning some- 
 what indisposed, I still would not allow myself to lose the 
 opportunity of seeing some more deputations, who arrived 
 from various parts, and gathering from them as much in- 
 formation as possible. 
 
 Most of them were impressed with the idea that I 
 came for the purpose of purchasing land, farms or dwelling- 
 houses. I will repeat here some of their statements, so as 
 to give an idea of the present price of land, and other con- 
 siderations regarding the objects in view. 
 
 N. N. sold some land, outside the walls of Jerusalem, 
 situate near the property of A. B., opposite the field belong- 
 ing to C. D., of which E. F. bought a portion, of 5,000 yards 
 (known by the term p^H JllStf, "the builder's yard"),
 
 64 
 
 100 yards in length and 50 yards in breadth, paying for each 
 yard five groosh (Turkish piastres), 25,000 piastres, equal 
 to £207. The remainder of that property has been sold 
 to a company, intending to build thereon fifty houses. 
 
 Near the property belonging to G. H., in the same locality, 
 there is some land measuring 19,000 yards; length 160 
 yards, breadth 125 yards, containing 70 olive trees, 500 
 vines; also three small rooms, and one cistern, depth 10 
 yards, length 16 yards, breadth 12 yards; has been offered 
 at the price of £1,600 — not less than eight or nine different 
 fields, excellent situation, some with houses and cisterns, some 
 without, have been recommended. Plans and full measure- 
 ments have been procured, and all particulars fully given. 
 
 Dwelling-houses in Jerusalem producing an annual rent 
 of £205 have been offered at a price of £12,000. A whole 
 village has been pointed out to me, which might be bought 
 at a moderate price.* All of those who reported to me on 
 this subject stated, that there would be no difficulty what- 
 ever to secure as much land as might be required either for 
 cultivation or building purposes. 
 
 The same day, the Governor and the Kadi honoured me 
 with their visits — both of them, in the spirit which actuates 
 the Turkish Government, assuring me of their readiness to 
 render every possible assistance to encourage agriculture, as 
 well as any other industrial scheme, for the promotion of 
 the welfare of the people in the Holy Land. Jaffa, the 
 Governor observed, has much improved ; the walls of the 
 town have been razed to the ground, and the stones and 
 other building materials thereof are used for the construc- 
 tion of shops and houses along the street ; " in sha Allah," 
 nothing shall stop our progress. 
 
 * occ Appendix, Lit. A.
 
 65 
 
 The French and American Consuls also favoured me 
 with their visits. Speaking on subjects referring to the 
 improvements which have already taken place in the coun- 
 try, and which are now about being introduced, it was 
 stated that the road from Jaffa to Jerusalem, though being 
 laid out by clever engineers, and so constructed as to make 
 the journey not over fatiguing, cannot yet be pronounced 
 equal to any of our English roads, on account of the great 
 number of stones encumbering the roads and impeding the 
 easy progress of a carriage. The harbour of Jaffa, which 
 would be materially improved by the construction of a 
 breakwater, and apparently only requires the removal of 
 three or four rocks to secure a safe landing, is still allowed 
 to remain in the same state in which it has been, to the 
 great disadvantage of the place, for many hundred years 
 past. Nevertheless, all my visitors entertained the hope, that 
 we are not far from the time when these evils will be reme- 
 died, and anticipated a happy future. At present, a carriage, 
 that is, a char-a-bancs, with a suitable awning to accommo- 
 date five persons besides the driver, might be procured at a 
 price of 100 francs (£4), and 20 francs a-day to the driver, 
 when detained on the road. There are two companies who 
 established a regular kind of Omnibus between Jaffa and 
 Jerusalem, by which people are enabled to travel at a very 
 moderate fare. 
 
 It is generally admitted that the time will come when 
 direct communications by rail between Jaffa and Port Said 
 will be made, and the produce of the land will then find a 
 good market, as has been stated here before. 
 
 After a good day's useful work, we sat down to an excel- 
 lent dinner, and were subsequently entertained by some 
 music and sinsrinsr.
 
 66 
 
 In noticing the pleasing manners and abilities of the 
 children of our host, who, in addition to their knowledge of 
 the French, English, Spanish, and Arabic languages, also 
 played the piano and sang, I could not help thinking, that, 
 with the increasing taste for European accomplishments 
 here in Jaffa, which, on account of its being so near to 
 Jerusalem, might almost be called " the gate of the Holy 
 City," however pleasing and entertaining it may be, a great 
 struggle might possibly in some future day arise, even in 
 Jerusalem, between the Progressist party — those who did 
 not come to the Holy Land from religious motives, but from 
 reasons connected with special circumstances — and the 
 strictly Conservative party, whose sole object in coming to 
 Jerusalem was the preservation of their religion. I am, 
 moreover, under the impression of having already noticed, 
 even during my short stay at Jaffa, some indications to that 
 effect. The lovers of Zion must then exercise a full 
 and sound judgment regarding this subject, when the ques- 
 tion of education is brought before them. My humble 
 opinion is, and I believe all of you will agree with me, 
 when the daughters of Jerusalem have acquired the know- 
 ledge of Writing, Reading, and Arithmetic; when they under- 
 stand the language of the country, and one or two Euro- 
 pean languages, in addition to their knowledge of the He- 
 brew language, their prayers and Sacred Scriptures, as well 
 as of necessary needlework, and the management of house- 
 hold affairs, they have completed their education ; any 
 branch of study beyond that would not tend to the promo- 
 tion of their real welfare in the Holy City. 
 
 To prevent the possibility of preparing for my reception 
 at the Biara, I requested Dr. Loewe to go there the next 
 morning at an early hour, and report to me the state in 
 which he found it.
 
 67 
 
 When the Biara was bought, in the year 5615 — 1855, there 
 were not less than 1,407 trees, of which 
 
 721 were bearing Oranges. 
 
 129 
 60 
 24 
 
 279 
 42 
 29 
 41 
 
 Sweet Lemons. 
 
 Lemons. 
 
 Citrons. 
 
 Pomegranates. 
 
 Apples. 
 
 Peaches. 
 
 Almonds. 
 
 11 were bearing Dates. 
 
 6 „ 
 
 >» 
 
 Apricots. 
 
 9 n 
 
 » 
 
 Mulberries 
 
 13 „ 
 
 >> 
 
 Pears. 
 
 6 „ 
 
 >> 
 
 Pigs- 
 
 2 „ 
 
 91 
 
 Bananas. 
 
 12 Wild T 
 
 rees. 
 
 
 23 Vines. 
 
 
 
 and I was rather anxious to know how many we have now 
 in the garden. I also begged of him to visit the Wiir- 
 temburg Estate, which is only a very short distance from 
 the Biara\ 
 
 Accordingly, he started on Tuesday (the 14th of July), 
 at six o'clock in the morning, for the Biara, inspected the 
 houses, the garden, and the adjoining field, examined the 
 well and cistern, made a rough sketch of the estate, went 
 to Saroona to inspect some of the houses and fields, and 
 returned in the afternoon with a most satisfactory report. 
 
 From statements reported in England, I expected not 
 to find a single tree in the garden, the houses in ruin, and 
 the cistern and water-wheel destroyed ; but I was now 
 fortunately able to convince myself that such - was not the 
 case. It was arranged that I should proceed the next clay 
 (Wednesday) to the Biara, accompanied by the English 
 Vice-Consul, and every one of my own party, so as to be 
 enabled to have a complete inspection of the place. 
 
 Towards the evening messengers arrived from Jeru-
 
 68 
 
 salem with letters referring to the house which had been 
 taken for me at the rental of 82 Napoleons a month, 
 including the charges for tents, etc. 
 
 The idea of encamping on the road to Jerusalem three 
 or four nights was given up, and we decided to leave 
 Jaffa on .Thursday afternoon, for Ramlah. 
 
 Wednesday morning I received letters referring to 
 the offer of landed property, also estimates of expenses for 
 the building of a stone wall, cemented with chalk, around a 
 certain number of fields, showing that the cost would be 
 twelve or thirteen Turkish piastres per pick ^_i, (three 
 
 square feet), and after having signed a number of letters 
 relating to statistical accounts, I went to see again the tomb 
 of my much-lamented friend, Dr. Hodgkin, and arranged 
 that, for the better preservation of the ground, a suitable 
 railing should be made round the monument. It was a 
 melancholy occasion, and made me remember all those 
 virtues by which the departed was so pre-eminently dis- 
 tinguished during his life. 
 
 We subsequently directed our course towards the 
 Biara, which we reached after half-an-hour's ride. Signor 
 Jacob ibn Simool, the Superintendent, and Mr. Samkhoon, 
 agriculturist, together with his wife and children, awaited 
 there our arrival. Our party, consisting of more than ten 
 or twelve persons, dispersed themselves all over the estate, 
 entered every one of the rooms, stables, etc., counted a 
 number of trees, certainly not less than 900, rode all 
 round the boundaries, and had the gratification of ascer- 
 taining that the statements which had been made by some 
 travellers regarding that estate were incorrect. There wa8
 
 69 
 
 no indication of neglect visible in any part of it. The roof 
 in one of the upper rooms was damaged by rain, and may 
 be repaired according to an estimate given by the car- 
 penter, Mordecai Cohen, at an outlay of 7| Napoleons. As 
 a pleasing memento of the Biara, I made several of my 
 party cut off slips from each of the different kinds of trees 
 on the land, to take home with me to London. 
 
 All that the Estate requires is a much larger amount of 
 money than has been hitherto expended, moreover to secure 
 the services of an English or French gardener ; to build a 
 more suitable dwelling-house, to introduce a number of 
 European vegetables and fruit trees for the market of Port 
 Said, and to have the necessary number of mules for turning 
 the wheel to fill the large tank with water. 
 
 I expressed my satisfaction to Messrs. Jacob ibn Simool 
 and Samkhoon, and promised to make known their con- 
 scientious attention to the work entrusted to their care. I 
 here gladly take the opportunity of stating that Mr. Jacob 
 ibn Simool is considered one of the most benevolent mem- 
 bers of the community in Jaffa, who would never hesitate 
 to make any sacrifice to serve the cause of charity. 
 
 It was a late hour when we returned home, and I felt 
 much fatigued from the great heat of the day. Finding 
 that it would be almost impossible for me to leave Jaffa on 
 Thursday, I gave orders to send messengers to Ramlah and 
 Bab-el- Wad, the places where I intended to sleep and spend 
 the Sabbath, informing them of my intentions. 
 
 Thursday morning I was unable to leave my chamber at 
 the usual hour in the morning, but I would not lose a day's 
 work, so I signed a number of letters and received a depu-
 
 70 
 
 tation from Hebron, consisting of two gentlemen, represent- 
 ing the German and Portuguese Communities, whom I had 
 the pleasure of knowing thirty years ago. Both appeared 
 to me to be in an excellent state of health. I mention this 
 little incident, for the reason I shall have afterwards to 
 state, that most people whom I had the happiness of seeing 
 in the Holy Land, even those of an advanced age, appeared 
 to me looking well. 
 
 Friday morning (17th July) I conferred with Mr. Sam- 
 khoon regarding the estimate for repairing the roof of one of 
 the rooms in the Biara, and other improvements on the 
 estate. He suggested having a steam-engine to bring up 
 the water for the irrigation of the garden and the adjoining 
 field, so as to save the expenses to be incurred by keeping 
 four mules. This, however, appeared to me impracticable, 
 on account of there being some difficulty in finding a person 
 in Jaffa who would undertake repairing it when out of 
 order, and on account of the cost of fuel. His representation 
 of the necessity to appeal to the Governor of Jerusalem for 
 the purpose of inducing His Excellency to enforce payment 
 from a thief who had stolen two camels from the estate, and 
 had only been liberated from prison by the guarantee of a 
 person at Gaza to pay the amount of the theft, I did not 
 deem proper to entertain, relying entirely on the justice of 
 the Turkish Government, who, I felt assured, would not 
 suffer any injustice to be done in administering the law of 
 the country. I advised him therefore to wait a little longer 
 before taking any further steps. 
 
 I then received a deputation from the Yesheebat Etz 
 Khayim, an institution for the promotion of the study of 
 the Holy Law in Jerusalem, who invited me to attend an 
 examination of the pupils, which T cheerfully acceded to.
 
 71 
 
 The hour of preparing for the Sabbath drew nigh, and 1 
 had the satisfaction, notwithstanding the delay in my 
 journey, which I so much regretted, to be permitted antici- 
 pating some good result from the information I gathered 
 during the week. I now entertained the hope of being able 
 to leave Jaffa next Sunday. 
 
 On leaving my chamber this afternoon, just before the 
 Minkha prayers were offered up, to light the Sabbath lamp, 
 I met with a little accident, by which I hurt my knee, and 
 was the next morning obliged, in conformity with strict 
 orders from my medical attendant, to remain confined to 
 my room. I suppressed at the time the pain I felt, and 
 when the Minyan arrived] for the Sabbath prayers, a ray of 
 joy entered my heart, which became greatly enhanced by 
 the reflection that God had permitted me again to celebrate 
 that hallowed day in the Land of Promise. I sang the 
 Sabbath hymns with more fervour than ever, and was 
 delighted beyond description with the pleasing countenances 
 I met, when the customary salutations of Dl/fe^ rD£? " 
 " "plftl * was offered to me by the members of our little 
 community. 
 
 Our Sabbath table was pleasingly graced by the youthful 
 and amiable family of our esteemed host, the English Vice- 
 Consul, and, though far away from our dear relatives and 
 friends in England, we did not omit to remember them 
 by drinking to their health. There was, however, something, 
 intended, no doubt, for some good reason, to mar for the 
 moment the feeling of my contentment. The pain caused 
 by the accident became most acute, and it was with very 
 great difficulty that I could return to my chamber. 
 
 a " A peaceful and blessed Sabbath.''
 
 72 
 
 Sabbath morning, though under great pain, I desired to 
 have the door of my chamber quite open,, so as to enable 
 me to hear the prayers recited by our Minyan, and see 
 every one of the gentlemen present. I noticed five youths, 
 neatly dressed, apparently belonging to some Institution. 
 On my enquiry, I was told they belonged to the Mikweh 
 Israel, under the direction of Mr. Schamasch. Having pre- 
 viously received a pressing invitation from that gentleman 
 to visit the place, I sent word to him that I would come 
 to see the Mikweh Israel as soon as I should be able to 
 do so. 
 
 Sunday (July 19). — Having passed a restless night, I 
 was prevented receiving this morning, at an early hour, a 
 Deputation from Khaifa, who purposely came to Jaffa to 
 present personally the Statistical accounts referring to 
 their Community which I had requested them, in a special 
 letter, to prepare for me. Nor could I see a Deputation 
 from the same place, who prayed for agricultural work, and 
 two gentlemen from Hebron, who had been entrusted by 
 their Congregation with some important letters for me. 
 
 Towards the afternoon, however, I felt a little less pain, 
 and I invited the Khaifa Deputation to enter my chamber. 
 I examined the valuable documents they presented to me, 
 and there was every reason to be satisfied with the work 
 they brought to me. 
 
 Those gentlemen described the state of their Congre- 
 gation as being in every respect satisfactory. They have 
 four Synagogues and several charitable institutions, main- 
 tain their own poor, and do not partake of any share of 
 charitable contributions from abroad. They showed me 
 a letter containing an agreement which they made with the
 
 73 
 
 Congregation at Safed, referring to the arrival of Russian, 
 Austrian, and Dutch Israelites in their harbour, with the 
 intention of settling in the holy city of Safed or Tiberias, the 
 Khaifa harbour being a very safe place for landing, for 
 which reason many pilgrims prefer Khaifa to Jaffa. I was 
 induced to enquire whether the Deputies knew of any 
 persons residing in their town who had left their respective 
 countries originally for the purpose of avoiding military ser- 
 vice, and to partake of those charitable gifts which, it is said, 
 are so abundantly offered to them from our European Brethren. 
 The Deputies felt most indignant at the idea, and said : 
 " We never heard of such persons landing at Khaifa, nor do 
 we partake of any charitable contributions from abroad." 
 When those gentlemen, on their return from Jaffa, reported 
 to their Congregation the substance of my enquiries, the 
 Elders addressed a letter to me, of which the following is a 
 short abstract : — 
 
 "We beg leave to inform you that we all live here, 
 thank God, in perfect peace and unity ; all of us conjointly 
 listen to the voice of our spiritual guides. We all consider 
 it our utmost duty to observe the laws of God, and there 
 is no schism whatever in our Community. With regard to 
 your enquiry respecting soldiers, who, it was said, were in 
 the habit of coming to our place to settle among us with a 
 view of being maintained by the communal charities, allow 
 us, Sir, to assure you, that there have never come such 
 persons to our place ; any report having been made to that 
 effect has no foundation in truth. As for ourselves, we are 
 all, thank God, maintaining our families by the work of our 
 hands ; none of us partake of any charitable gift, except the 
 orphan and the widow, and even these are supported by our 
 own charitable institutions, not by any charity coming from 
 abroad."
 
 74 
 
 The original letter is written in Hebrew, signed by ten 
 prominent members of the Congregation, and accompanied 
 by a French translation bearing the signatures of the French 
 and Netherland Vice-Consuls at Khaifa, attesting to the truth 
 of the contents of the letter and the correctness of the sig- 
 natures.* 
 
 To Messrs. Moses Joseph Rosenzweig and Abraham 
 Joseph Morgenstern, of the German Congregation of Khaifa, 
 who anxiously enquired regarding the agricultural scheme, 
 I pointed out the present result of investigations made in 
 the matter, expressing the hope of a speedy realization of 
 their wishes, should the large amount required for such 
 enterprise be secured. 
 
 I now invited the Deputies from Hebron to enter to con- 
 fer with them on the subject of their visit. They pre- 
 sented me some important letters from the Community, 
 referring to the purchase of most suitable land, and pointed 
 out several ways and means by which great service might 
 be rendered to their Community. I always had the highest 
 regard for our brethren in Hebron, and it afforded me 
 pleasure to assure them that I would endeavour to make 
 the subject of their communications known to the friends 
 of Zion. 
 
 Monday, July 20th, I felt, by the mercy of God, a 
 little better, but was still not in a state to be able to leave 
 my bed. I then continued, like the day before, to see 
 Deputations in my chamber. Communications were again 
 made to me in reference to some distressing occurrence in 
 Tiberias, of which I had already been informed when in 
 England. I then communicated by telegram to Her 
 Britannic Majesty's Consul-General of Syria, who con- 
 
 * See Appendix, Lit. B.
 
 75 
 
 ferred upon me so many obligations, by lending me, in 
 every cause of justice and humanity, his powerful aid to 
 assist our brethren, and I entertained the hope that all 
 was peaceably settled. At the suggestion of the parties 
 who addressed me, I instituted some more enquiries, and 
 promised to take some further steps in this unfortunate 
 matter. 
 
 Messrs. Jacob ibn Simool and Samkhoon called upon me 
 to have some further instructions regarding the Biara. I 
 repeated to both the assurance of my satisfaction with their 
 honest work, and promised to communicate to them on my 
 return to London. Mr. Jacob ibn Simool, whom I may call 
 the father of the poor in Jaffa, called my attention to several 
 deserving cases of distress in the community, to which I ob- 
 served, " Why do the parties in question not work ? " My 
 object in putting this question, I said, is not because I for 
 myself ever doubted their industrious habits, but to find the 
 opportunity of convincing others of the truth of my asser- 
 tion ; there are some persons who consider the Jews in the 
 Holy Land an idle set of people, preferring the bread of 
 idleness to that of industry. 
 
 On hearing this he almost burst into tears, fully denying 
 the truth of such accusation. " Well," I remarked, " supposing 
 I would offer a trifle, say a sixpence or a shilling, to any 
 poor man to go out into our Biara and fill there the large 
 cistern, which, according to Mr. Aikin's calculation, would 
 take fifty-eight hours to fill, would any of them do it ? " 
 " Ah ! " replied he, " there would be fifty who, without a 
 moment's hesitation, would proceed at once to do the work." 
 I took him at his word, and said, " Well, let it be done to- 
 day." It was about mid-day when this conversation took 
 place. Messrs. Simool and Samkhoon went to town, and I
 
 requested Dr. Loewe, Mr. Aikin, and everyone of those who 
 were with me, to proceed in the afternoon to the Biura. 
 
 On their arrival they found the courtyard adjoining the 
 waterwheel almost crowded by a number of poor, not less 
 than thirty, sitting on the ground, eight of them alternately 
 rising to turn the wheel, while the others were singing in 
 chorus Psalm cxxviii., in which the verse 72XH *2 TE3 V*y 
 ^S y\®\ T"1#X " Thou shalt eat the labour of thine hands ; 
 happy shalt thou be and it shall be well with thee," occurs- 
 Presently a number of them took out of their pockets some 
 little prayer-books, and began singing Psalm cxix. ; and there 
 prevailed as much gladness and joy among them, notwith- 
 standing the sweat of the brow which streamed down their 
 faces whilst running round and round the wheel, just as if 
 they had been engaged in the most easy and amusing work. 
 As the time drew nigh the evening, Minkha prayers were 
 offered up by every one present ; and the melodious voices 
 which raised the sound of *plE tEH TlfcW KH» |EK might 
 almost have been heard by their Wurtemberg neighbours in 
 Sanoora. Subsequently they all dispersed in different corners 
 to select a place of rest for the night, as they still had to 
 work a time before the tank would be quite full with 
 water. The next morning being a fast-day (17th of Ta- 
 muz), they proposed rising at a very early hour, so as to 
 be able to do the work before the heat of the day became 
 too overpowering. Wednesday morning, the water that 
 filled the tank was overflowing, irrigating the garden in all 
 directions ; Messrs. Simool and Samkhoon were delighted to 
 have been able to prove the correctness of their statement. 
 As for myself, I never entertained a doubt of the perse- 
 vering industry of my brethren ; but my object was, as has 
 been already stated before, to convince others who were of a 
 different opinion.
 
 77 
 
 In the evening of the same day I received some gen- 
 tlemen from Jerusalem connected with banking transac- 
 tions, and others representing parties who were desirous 
 to call my attention to special congregational differences. 
 All their communications I took into serious considera- 
 tion, and regulated my arrangements accordingly. 
 
 Tuesday, 21st July, I still felt the effect of the 
 little accident I met with last Friday night, but I could 
 easily indulge myself that day with a little more 
 rest, on account of the fast which our brethren 
 took kindly into consideration, by not pressing me too 
 hard with personal interviews. Towards the afternoon, 
 however, just before the hour of prayers, some serious 
 matter was still brought before me in reference to the 
 disturbance at Tiberias, and I gave my instructions with- 
 out delay. 
 
 Wednesday, 22nd July. — At an early hour this morn- 
 ing, I ascertained from my medical attendant that I might 
 now venture, under great care, to resume my journey. 
 Though I had but little sleep during the night, and felt 
 myself very weak, I hastened, nevertheless, to give orders 
 for our departure. We arranged to have four carriages 
 from the Wiirtemberg Company to leave Jaffa in the after- 
 noon, so as to reach Ramlah for the night. Thursday to 
 continue the journej 7 to Bab-el- Wad, there to remain over 
 Sabbath ; Sunday to start for Colonia, and Monday morning 
 to enter Jerusalem. 
 
 The statistical accounts of the Jaffa Congregation were 
 now presented to me by the Haham, who had the order of 
 preparing them, but on examination I ascertained a great 
 number of subjects which he omitted to insert. I requested
 
 78 
 
 him to take them back and correct any of the statements 
 requiring his reconsideration. 
 
 Towards the afternoon the Governor, having been in- 
 formed of my intended departure, kindly sent to me a Yuz 
 Bashi, with ten soldiers as a guard of honour, to accompany 
 me to Jerusalem. I expressed my deep gratitude for the 
 great attention of His Excellency, but begged to be permitted 
 to decline accepting the honour. The Governor, however, 
 would not think of allowing me to leave Jaffa without the 
 soldiers ; ultimately it was arranged that the Yuz Bashi and 
 the ten soldiers should accompany me for half an hour's dis- 
 tance, then return to Jaffa, the On Bashi and one soldier to 
 go up with me to Jerusalem. 
 
 About four o'clock p.m. I took my farewell of our excellent 
 hostess and her amiable family, assuring them of the great 
 pleasure I derived from the constant attention they showed me 
 whilst under their hospitable roof; Sign or Amzalak insisted 
 on his accompanying me at least as far as the Yuz Bashi and 
 the nine soldiers would go, and ordered his Kawass to be in 
 special attendance upon me all the way up to Jerusalem. 
 
 I must not omit to mention here that the Haham Bashi 
 of Jerusalem, immediately on my arrival in Jaffa, sent one 
 of his Kawasses with the Deputation from Jerusalem to wait 
 on me during my stay in that place, and subsequently to 
 accompany me to the Holy City ; but as I was very uncertain 
 regarding the number of days I might have to stay, I thought 
 proper to decline the proffered honour, with full appreciation 
 of his kindness. 
 
 As I took my seat in the carriage, a large concourse of 
 people pressed round us, but the soldiers and Kawasses soon 
 cleared the way and enabled us to proceed.
 
 79 
 
 Coming near the French Consul's country seat, it was 
 pointed out to me that not far from his property one of our 
 brethren, Mordecai Cohen, the carpenter, had taken some 
 land for cultivation. I was aware of that, as he had ad- 
 dressed a letter to me, on that subject, begging for some aid 
 to purchase the field, instead of holding it by paying a 
 rent. It was the man who sent the estimate for repairing 
 the roof of the house in the Biara, and he certainly appeared 
 to be a most active and clever mechanic. 
 
 Half an hour farther on, we passed the Mikweh Israel, 
 which I was prevented visiting whilst at Jaffa from want of 
 time and by indisposition, but I did so on my return from 
 Jerusalem, and I shall give some account of it in the course 
 of this narrative. 
 
 Mr. Schamasch kindly came to bid me good-bye, and ac- 
 companied us for some time, then returned with Mr. 
 Amzalak and the soldiers, who I consented should only 
 accompany me during half an hour. 
 
 We were rather disappointed at the state of the road, 
 which certainly appeared to be out of repair, and it took us 
 three hours' time to reach Ramlah. 
 
 At the entrance of that place, a guard of honour pre- 
 sented arms, and I was truly pleased to reach again the 
 Russian Hospice, where I passed, on a former occasion, a 
 very comfortable day. 
 
 Thursday morning, messengers arrived from Jerusalem 
 and Bab-el- Wad, to ascertain the exact day of our intended 
 entry into Jerusalem, but I did not deem it right to com- 
 ply in this instance with the request of my friends, as I
 
 80 
 
 wished to avoid causing them inconvenience and expense 
 as much as possible. The Governor and Kadi honoured 
 me with a visit, also a Representative of the Christian 
 Schools ; and they called my attention to the improve- 
 ments which have taken place in the vicinity of Ramlah. 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon we left for Bab-el- 
 Wad. Here the state of the road improved a little, but 
 still not so as to prevent a carriage from moving without 
 violent jolts, which made us sometimes feel as though we 
 were on the point of being thrown out of the carriage alto- 
 gether. 
 
 I noticed a great deal of activity in the fields, and fre- 
 quently met a long string of camels carrying various 
 loads to or from Jerusalem. Now and then I saw the 
 omnibus with a number of people ; altogether the road I 
 thought considerably more animated by traffic than it was 
 during my former visits to Jerusalem. As we came near 
 Bab-el- Wad, a hut was pointed out to me which, it was 
 said, was occupied by two of our brethren, being engaged 
 there in the preparation of lime. It was quite in a soli- 
 tary situation, and the occupants must have found it hard 
 work to get even the necessary provisions to that place. 
 At six o'clock we arrived safely at Bab-el- Wad. When I 
 alighted at this spot in the year 5626 (I860), there was 
 only an insignificant little house built of boards or boughs, 
 and the traveller would only stop here to take a cup of 
 coffee ; now we entered a house with a commodious dining 
 or reception-room, four or five bedrooms, and a convenient 
 terrace to enjoy there, in the cool evening or morning 
 air, the invigorating breeze of the hills. The house was 
 built for the accommodation of travellers, and three enter- 
 prising Israelites went into partnership, and took it for 
 three years.
 
 81 
 
 We remained here Friday and Sabbath, and had the 
 happiness to offer up our prayers with a full Community, 
 some of them purposely coming from the Holy City. I was 
 longing to see Jerusalem, and decided, notwithstanding my 
 previous arrangements, to start on Saturday night. We 
 waited for the rising of the moon, and twenty minutes past 
 eleven o'clock started for Jerusalem. Those were exciting 
 moments which presented themselves to my mind, now and 
 then, as we ascended and descended the hills and dales on 
 the road ; the moon throwing her long and dark shadow 
 when behind a rock. They recalled to memory how much 
 exposed the traveller was in former years to the attacks of 
 a Bedouin, or some feudal lord. Now, thank God, thanks 
 to the protection of the Turkish Government, we do not 
 hear of such outrages on peaceable pilgrims. Just as 
 I concluded these meditations, two Bedouins in full 
 speed dashed along from behind some hidden rock, and 
 directed their course right up to our carriage. " Good 
 Heaven," I thought, " we ought not to be too hasty here in 
 bestowing praises on the protection of the police ; what in 
 the world will they do with us ?" But Dr. Loewe, who was 
 with me in the carriage, suddenly called out as loud as he 
 possibly could, " Shalom Aleykhem, Rabbi B.S. ; Shalom 
 Aleykhem, Rabbi L.S.," and turning round to me he said, 
 "These are not Bedouins, though they are dressed exactly like 
 them, and gallop along the hills like the sons of the desert, 
 but they are simply our own Brethren from Jerusalem, who, 
 I have no doubt, come to ascertain the exact time of your 
 intended entry into Jerusalem, to give timely notice to the 
 people to come out to meet you." And so it was. A minute 
 afterwards they pulled up the reins of their fiery chargers, 
 and stood before us. " A happy and blessed week to you, 
 Dr. Loewe," they shouted; " where is Sir Moses ? how is he ? 
 when will he enter Jerusalem ?" As I bent nry head forward 
 
 F
 
 82 
 
 they reverentially saluted me, and stated to me the object 
 of their coming ; but as it was my intention purposely to 
 avoid giving any unnecessary inconvenience to my Jeru- 
 salem friends, I declined letting them know the exact hour. 
 They again saluted, galloped off, and soon disappeared. I 
 was told that they had left Jerusalem after Habdalah, and 
 now intended being again in the Holy City early in the 
 morning. If there be many such horsemen in the Holy 
 Land like these two supposed Bedouins, they certainly 
 ought not in justice to be regarded as descendants from 
 sickly parents, as some persons supposed. 
 
 About four o'clock in the morning we reached Colonia, 
 almost exhausted from fatigue, but I remained firm in my 
 resolution, and after a short stay of half an hour, without 
 descending from the carriage, proceeded on my journey. 
 
 At five o'clock in the morning we were already saluted 
 by friends who had anticipated our approach, and, half an 
 hour afterwards, we halted at the spot whence a full view 
 might be had of the Holy City. There we performed the 
 ceremony of H^Hp, Keriah, and pronounced the customary 
 blessing, surrounded by an increasing number of people 
 from all directions. 
 
 As we now continued moving towards Jerusalem, I had 
 nothing but to look right and left to see the number of new 
 houses ; some of them very large buildings, and the mouths 
 of friends did not rest from telling us, " This is a house be- 
 longing to one of us ;" " That piece of ground has been bought 
 by N. N., one of our Community ;" and as we still further 
 proceeded, there was no necessity any more to inform us 
 of the name of any proprietor, as the whole family of the 
 occupants came out of their houses, and I had the happi-
 
 83 
 
 ness of myself seeing hundreds of our brethren lining the 
 fronts of their dwellings. Presently my attention was di- 
 rected to the presence of my much-esteemed friend, the 
 Rev. Samuel Salant, a gentleman who had been introduced 
 to me, when in Constantinople, by the late Rev. Moses 
 Rivlin, in the year 5601 (1840), and who has been one 
 of my .correspondents on matters connected with the 
 Holy Land for the last thirty-five years. His countenance 
 was radiant with joy when he saw me, and he pronounced 
 the blessing of " Shehekheyanoo " 'D^lin^. I was de- 
 lighted to find him looking so well, appearing almost as 
 young as when I saw him nine years ago. Proceeding a 
 little farther on the road, a new Synagogue was shown to 
 
 me, in the place called "Nakhalat Shibeah," T\yiW r/?n3 ; 
 it was surrounded by a number of houses, occupied, I was 
 told, by fifty families. Again, a plot of ground was pointed 
 out to me as belonging to a party intending to build 
 thereon sixty houses. And, when coming near the Upper 
 Gikhon pool, not far from the windmill which I caused to 
 be built on the Estate " Kerem Moshe Ve-Yehoodit," 
 rVTiiYI T\&t2 DID eighteen years ago, my attention was 
 directed to two other windmills recently built, which, I 
 was told, gave a good profit to the Greeks who owned them. 
 
 Great was my delight when I considered that but a few 
 years had passed since the time when not one Jewish 
 family was living outside the gate of Jerusalem — not a 
 single house to be seen ; and now I beheld almost a new 
 Jerusalem springing up, with buildings, some of them as 
 fine as any in Europe. " Surely," I exclaimed, " we are 
 approaching the time to witness the realization of God's 
 hallowed promises unto Zion ! fiWlb D^ty ])$& Tfl£B>1 
 ~\\l) "TH ' I will make thee an eternal excellency, a joy of 
 many generations.' — Is. lx. 15."
 
 84 
 
 When my carriage reached the Jaffa gate I was obliged 
 to alight. Neither the streets nor the pavements in Jerusa- 
 lem, the driver observed, are yet prepared for carriages. 
 
 Not having given any information of the time of my in- 
 tended arrival, my friends did not order a sedan-chair to be 
 in readiness for me, so it was rather a difficult and somewhat 
 painful task for me to walk along the streets to the house 
 prepared for my reception. The number of people now in- 
 creased all around me ; my esteemed and learned friends, 
 the Rev. Abraham Askenasi, Haham Bashi, and the Rev. 
 Meyer Auerbach, came in great haste to meet me, expressing 
 regret that no previous notice had been given to them, else 
 they would have gone some distance out of the city to re- 
 ceive me ; and many other friends followed them in making 
 similar remarks ; but the Kawasses soon led the way under 
 a vaulted arch, and opening there a low gate on our right, 
 I was saluted by the gentlemen who had the charge of the 
 house by a hearty " Barookh Haba." I had still to ascend 
 a number of steps before I reached the terrace, but only a 
 few minutes were required to take me into my apart- 
 ments. 
 
 Here the Haham Bashi, the Rev. Meyer Auerbach, and 
 the Rev. Samuel Salant, conveyed to me in their official 
 capacity the cordial welcome on their own behalf, and on 
 that of the several Communities they represented, intro- 
 ducing at the same time subjects of great importance for con- 
 sideration. When they had concluded their address, I assured 
 them of the great delight I felt in finding myself surrounded 
 by men of such great distinction, and that I would see 
 them as often as possible, so as to have further commu- 
 nication on all matters tending to promote the welfare of 
 Jerusalem, specially the support of our holy religion. As
 
 85 
 
 soon as they left, I made the necessary arrangements for 
 the reception of the Representatives of the several Com- 
 munities, the Wardens of the Synagogues, and the Com- 
 mittees of all the Charitable Institutions, fixing the day 
 and hour I intended to see them. 
 
 On leaving my apartments to inspect the adjoining 
 rooms and tents for the accommodation of my party, I no- 
 ticed a number of porters bringing in heavy luggage, speak- 
 ing, or rather shouting, as they moved along, in not less 
 than five or six languages — German, Spanish, French, Ara- 
 bic, Turkish, and Hebrew. To my great delight, I ascer- 
 tained that all of them belonged to our own, the Hebrew 
 Community. " Well," I thought, " what a great act of in- 
 justice are those persons committing who accuse our poor 
 brethren in Jerusalem of indolence ! " 
 
 Looking up at the roofs of the adjoining houses, I ob- 
 served almost as many people, men, women, and children, 
 as I saw in the street below ; all of them offering me their 
 salutations of Barookh Haba. They appeared to me good 
 looking and neatly dressed. Some of them dropped down 
 letters and poems specially composed in honour of my 
 arrival. They were, however, requested by the Kawasses 
 to withdraw from near our terrace, lest their presence might 
 be considered an intrusion. 
 
 Entering the large reception room, situate across the 
 terrace opposite my own apartments, I had a beautiful view 
 of the East, North and South of Jerusalem. I could see 
 several very fine buildings on the Mount of Olives — many 
 new and lofty houses all along the North, and some cupolas 
 of Synagogues. As I looked out of the window I could 
 almost see into the rooms of several families who lived near
 
 86 
 
 the house I occupied, and it was a source of much gratifica- 
 tion to me to watch the affectionate treatment of their 
 children, and the industrious habits of all their inmates. 
 
 I felt now the necessity of retiring, if possible, for a few 
 hours' rest. As I re-entered my apartments the little 
 Synagogue was pointed out to me where the morning and 
 evening service would daily be held during our presence 
 in Jerusalem. I immediately caused the names of the 
 gentlemen intended to compose the " Minyan," pj£, to be 
 given to me, and had Haham Joseph Burla, one of the 
 inmates of the late "Juda Touro Almshouses," generally 
 known by the name of " Mishkenot Shaananim," m33C£ 
 D0JX2^, appointed as " Hazan." I noticed among the names 
 that of Moses Bukhara, a very efficient guide and interpreter 
 to travellers who visit the Holy Land ; he speaks English 
 fluently, and is very trustworthy. In the course of the day 
 I received Signor Valero, Haham Eliahu Nabon, who had 
 been appointed by the Haham Bashi to be in attendance on 
 me ; Rev. Nathan Cornel, the author of several Hebrew 
 books ; Mr. Selig Hausdorff, an active member of the " Hod" 
 Community ; Dr. Schwarz, the Director of the Rothschild 
 hospital ; Dr. Puffeles, the Director of the Bate' Holim 
 hospital ; the Rev. Moses Nehemia Kahanow, the learned 
 author of several valuable works ; Messrs. Fischel Cohen 
 Lapin, and Eliezer Salkind, Representatives of the " Etz 
 Khayim" College, established in the year 5617 for students 
 above fifteen years of age ; and the Representatives of the 
 College "Menakhem Zion," one of the first Colleges esta- 
 blished by the Germans in the year 5597. All the commu- 
 nications each of these gentlemen made to me, I had 
 entered in a book for future consideration. 
 
 It was my intention to repair the next day, Monday,
 
 87 
 
 before paying my respects to His Excellency the Governor, 
 and Mr. Moore, Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, to the 
 Synagogues, to make there my heartfelt thank-offering to 
 Him who takes delight in Zion, the God of Israel ; but 
 fatigued, partly by the journey, partly by the exertions of 
 the day, I could not realize my sincere wish. I had a rest- 
 less night, and awoke in the morning in a state of great 
 weakness. 
 
 Monday (26th July) ; in the course of the day I had the 
 honour of receiving visits from Mr. Noel Moore, Her 
 Majesty's Consul in Jerusalem, an enlightened statesman, 
 and an accomplished scholar, whom I have the happiness of 
 being permitted to call my most valued friend ; and from 
 His Highness Aziz Bey, the brother of His Excellency the 
 Governor of Jerusalem, accompanied by George Balet 
 Effendi, the former expressing regret that no notice had 
 been given of the day I intended to enter Jerusalem, or my 
 friends, he said, would have come to meet me. He brought 
 me the cordial welcome of the Governor, observing in the 
 name of His Excellency, that, as my state of health might 
 not allow me to call on the Governor, the latter would 
 gladly come to pay me a visit without ceremony. In reply 
 to this most kind offer, I begged Aziz Bey to assure His 
 Excellency that however grateful I must feel to the 
 Governor for his condescension, I could not accept that 
 honour, as I would thereby be deprived of the opportunity 
 to pay that tribute of high respect, which I was anxious to 
 pay to His Excellency, as the Representative of the Turkish 
 Government, to whom I was anxious to present the Vizierial 
 letter so kindly procured for me from Constantinople. 
 
 My excellent friends, the Rev. the Hahanv Bashi, the 
 Rev. Meyer Auerbach, and the Rev. Samuel Salant, ao-ain
 
 88 
 
 favoured me with a visit, discussing various communal affairs 
 and I deoided, in the event of my being still unable to re- 
 pair to the Synagogues, to receive all those gentlemen who 
 requested to have an interview with me, and gave the ne- 
 cessary instructions to that effect. 
 
 The grandson of Akhmed Agha, the late Governor of 
 Jerusalem under the rule of Mohammad Ali, was now an- 
 nounced ; and I had much pleasure in hearing from him a 
 favourable account of the " Mishkenot Shaananim," and the 
 Estate known by the name of " Ke'rem Moshe Ve-Yehoodit," 
 his house being situated only a few yards' distance from the 
 above property. 
 
 Subsequently I had the gratification of receiving the 
 Rev. Haham Elyashar and the Members of the College, 
 " Yesheebat Beth Guedalla." They gave me an interesting 
 account of the studies pursued ; and I promised to pay 
 them an early visit, as I entertained the highest regard for 
 the founder of that institution, and the members of his 
 family. 
 
 It was now time for " Minkha," and the little Synagogue 
 was soon filled with the appointed Minyan. Prayers, I 
 need not say, were offered up with fervour and sincere de- 
 votion, in which I cordially joined; at the conclusion of 
 which, orders were given for allowing us a few hours' rest ; 
 but we experienced some difficulty in preventing numbers 
 of people entering the house, notwithstanding the injunc- 
 tions given to all the attendants. 
 
 Several hours in the evening were devoted to the reading 
 of various special letters which had been received during 
 the day ; and having completed the difficult task, I retired
 
 89 
 
 in full hopes of accomplishing to-morrow the work I had 
 intended doing during the day. 
 
 Tuesday (27th July) I had recovered to a slight degree 
 from my fatigue, but the Doctor would not yet allow me 
 to leave my apartments. According to previous arrange- 
 ments, I received to-day the Representatives of fifteen 
 Congregations : — 
 
 1. The Sephardiim ; 2. Maarabiim, or Morocco Congre- 
 gation ; 3. Gurgistan ; 4. Wilna ; 5. Samut and Curland ; 
 6. Huradna ; 7. Carlin ; 8. Reussen ; 9. Warsaw ; 10. Minsk ; 
 11. Suvalk and Lomza ; 12. Volhynidn ; 13. "Hod," 
 i.e., Holland and Deutschland; 14 Hungarian; 15. 
 Austrian. 
 
 Most of those gentlemen I had had the pleasure of seeing 
 during my former visit to Jerusalem, and have been in 
 correspondence with them on all important occasions. 
 They gave me pleasing accounts of their Synagogues, Col- 
 leges, and Charitable Institutions ; and submitted to me a 
 number of letters and documents referring to the Communal 
 matters, which I promised would have my special atten- 
 tion. I was much struck with the appearance of the Re- 
 presentatives of the Gurgistan (Georgia) Congregation. 
 They only settled in Jerusalem five years ago, and are now 
 numbering two hundred souls, all of whom came to the 
 Holy Land by the special permission of the Russian Go- 
 vernment.* Some of them had decorations on their breast. 
 One of the name of Eliahu ben Israel, had three ; he received 
 one from the late Emperor Nicholas, and two from the pre- 
 sent Emperor Alexander. When I encpiired of their Chief, 
 Haham Eliahu ben Jacob, how they came by these special 
 marks of distinction, he told me, that during the war of the 
 
 * See Appendix, Lit. C.
 
 90 
 
 Russians with the Circassians, the Jewish soldiers fought 
 most bravely ; and that when all the people in the town of 
 Kutais deserted the place, they, the Jews, remained, and 
 with their blood defended the Treasury of the Russian Go- 
 vernment. The soldier with the three decorations, Eliahu 
 ben Israel, said that he received, on each occasion when 
 those decorations had been given to him, an embrace from the 
 Emperor. It was quite a sight to see those gentlemen, some 
 in Caucasian and some in Circassian costume, looking strong 
 and brave, with fine countenances, relating the adventures 
 of a Caucasian war. 
 
 Considering that, in the presence of these brave men in 
 Jerusalem, certain persons should have brought forward an 
 accusation of cowardice and desertion against our Brethren, 
 it made me almost shed tears. Surely, I thought, Russia, 
 Austria, Prussia, France, Italy, &c, would give them quite 
 a different character. 
 
 When these Representatives of the Congregation left, the 
 name of the Rev. Moses Nehemia Kahanow was announced. 
 That gentleman was formerly Chief Rabbi of Chaslawitz ; 
 he is the author of several learned works on various sub- 
 jects of theological literature, and fills now the office of 
 Principal of the College " Etz Khayim " in Jerusalem. He 
 came accompanied by a number of his pupils, to recite and 
 sing a hymn composed by his son on occasion of my arri- 
 val, and to invite me to be present at an examination of all 
 the classes in the College. The boys, between the ages of 
 twelve and fifteen, looked all strong and healthy, and were 
 neatly dressed. 
 
 After him entered the Rev. Yitzchak Prager, a native of 
 Aplatow, Hungary ; he is the Principal of the School " Do-
 
 91 
 
 resh Zion," established by the late Mr. Joseph Blumenthal. 
 He introduced fifty-four of his pupils, who also recited and 
 sang a poem which he had composed. He requested me to 
 inspect and examine all the classes under his tuition, and I 
 promised him to take the earliest opportunity to comply 
 with his wish. 
 
 I was next favoured with a visit from Dr. Schwarz, the 
 Director of the Rothschild Hospital in Jerusalem, inviting 
 me to visit all the institutions called into existence by that 
 distinguished family, famous throughout the world for their 
 unbounded benevolence. 
 
 Dr. Puffeles, the Director of the Hospital known by the 
 name of " Bate Kholim," now sent in his card, desiring, as 
 he said, to offer his congratulations to me on my safe ar- 
 rival. As soon as Dr. Schwarz, and some other gentlemen 
 who had been waiting for an interview, had left, I requested 
 him to enter ; and in the course of our conversation he also 
 gave me a pressing invitation to see the Hospital under his 
 direction, especially as that institution had been permitted 
 by me to take possession of the Dispensary which I thirty- 
 two years ago (1843) sent to Jerusalem, under the care of a 
 Medical attendant. 
 
 Presently Astriades Effendi, the Maire of Jerusalem, was 
 announced. I had the pleasure of knowing that gentleman 
 during my visit to the Holy City in the year 18G6. He 
 spoke enthusiastically of the great improvements which have 
 taken place since that time. Under the present regulations 
 all houses must now be built, he said, according to a plan 
 approved of by the Government, the great object being to 
 have proper roads in all directions. It being part of his 
 duty to see the law in question carried out in the proper
 
 92 
 
 sense of the word, he finds it sometimes difficult to con- 
 vince the builders of the utility and importance thereof. 
 Speaking of the houses which had been built by the Prus- 
 sian Government for the accommodation of Lepers, he ob- 
 served that they were insufficient for the number now in 
 Jerusalem. As he advocated so 2rood a cause, I bested of 
 him subsequently, previous to my leaving the Holy City, 
 to devote the sum of £50, which I then handed to him, for 
 the purpose, leaving the matter entirely to his own care 
 and good judgment, to dispose of that amount according to 
 his own discretion. 
 
 Before I entered the Synagogue for " Minkha," Signor 
 Valero called. He entertained me kindly with interesting 
 information regarding the East, and spoke hopefully of 
 future prospects. 
 
 Notwithstanding the exertions of the day, during many 
 hours' conversation, I decided upon going the next day to 
 the Synagogues. By the kindness of Mr. J. C. Gargour, the 
 English Bishop's Secretary, who assured me that by ren- 
 dering me any little service in his power, he would only be 
 acting in the spirit of His Grace the Rev. Dr. Gobat, I 
 was enabled to have the use of the Bishop's sedan chair, 
 otherwise I must have been put to great inconvenience ; 
 that being the only sedan chair in Jerusalem. 
 
 The evening was again devoted to the consideration of a 
 number of letters received during the day. 
 
 Wednesday ( 28th July), preceded by soldiers and kawasses, 
 I repaired to the Synagogue called " Beth-Ha-Kenesset 
 Istambooli," presided over by the Rev. the Haham Bashi. 
 It is not stated in the Statistical accounts which the secretary
 
 93 
 
 of the Sephardiim Congregation has given, why it bears 
 that appellation ; but judging from places of nativity 
 affixed in the list to the names of the members of that 
 community, it appears that most, or at least many of 
 them, came from Turkey. The present Haham Bashi is 
 a native of Yenishir, he came to Jerusalem when five 
 years of age ; Haham Meyer Fanidjil, President of the 
 Committee, is a native of Pasargik, and was brought to 
 Jerusalem at the age of eight years ; and the Treasurer 
 of the Community, Haham Moses ben Viniste, is a native 
 of Salonica, and arrived in Jerusalem at the age of fifty. 
 
 The streets through which we had to pass were crowded 
 to the extreme, and many joyful salutations reached my ears 
 from young and old. I am most thankful that, notwith- 
 standing the eager and pressing throng, no accident 
 occurred. 
 
 Admission to the Synagogue having only been given to a 
 select number by cards, there was no inconvenience felt by 
 an overcrowded assembly, though I noticed as I entered 
 that the building was quite crowded in every comer. 
 
 The Synagogue was brilliantly illuminated, and presented 
 a most venerable appearance. 
 
 Having been conducted to a seat of honour, I was in- 
 vited to light a lamp, the emblem of our Holy Law and 
 Religion, and when I had performed that act of reverence, I 
 proceeded to open the ark, and pronounced the blessing of 
 " Hagomel," to which all present responded with a loud and 
 long " Amen." 
 
 Looking around me for a moment, I noticed the presence 
 of the Revs. Meyer Auerbach and Samuel Salant, also a
 
 94 
 
 number of gentlemen dressed in European costume, and 
 some Turkish officers. I was pleased to find them here, as 
 it appeared like a pledge of unity among all parties. 
 
 Psalms and special hymns were now partly chanted, 
 partly recited by the pupils of the various schools ; and a dis- 
 course delivered by the Rev. Aaron Ezriel, Rosh Beth-Din, 
 a native of Constantinople. Prayers were offered up for 
 the Turkish and English Sovereigns ; the Spiritual heads of 
 the Jerusalem and London Congregations ; for the speedy 
 recovery of the Baroness Meyer de Rothschild, and Sir 
 Anthony de Rothschild, concluding with a " Hashkaba " in 
 memory of Yehoodit, my beloved wife, whose spirit I felt 
 was then hovering over me. On leaving the Synagogue I 
 was informed by my friends that the members of the 
 Sephardiim Community have, in addition to this the Stam- 
 booli S3*nagogue, four other large ones, and twenty smaller 
 Synagogues, besides three Synagogues belonging to the 
 Morocco Congregation, making altogether twenty -eight 
 Synagogues. 
 
 I now proceeded to pay my respects to the Haham Bashi. 
 I met there the members of his Council ; Mr. Nissan Back, 
 President of the Volhynian Congregation, and a Turkish 
 officer. The Rev. Gentleman introduced to my special 
 attention the Rev. Haham Raphael Fanidjil, the President 
 of the Council, and the Rev. Haham Moses ben Viniste, the 
 " Pakeed," and Treasurer of the Sephardiim Community. He 
 also spoke in very high terms of the Turkish officer, who, 
 he said, renders the Jewish Community on all occasions 
 when he is appealed to, every possible protection. Our 
 conversation referred principally to the joyful event of the 
 day, and the ever ready exertions of the Turkish Govern- 
 ment to make the subjects of His Imperial Majesty the
 
 95 
 
 Sultan in all parts of his dominions happy. The Haham 
 Bashi also spoke about the new buildings the Sephardiim 
 Congregation are now about raising, and their prospects for 
 a successful completion of the same, 
 
 It was then my intention to go direct to the German 
 Synagogue, known by the name of Beth Yaacob, but as the 
 Rev. Meyer Auerbach happened to reside in one of the streets 
 leading to it, and I should have had to endure unnecessary 
 fatigue had I been obliged to retrace my way back again, I 
 proceeded to his house first. 
 
 It was a source of much pleasure to me to have an oppor- 
 tunity of paying my respects to that gentleman, for he is a 
 man of great distinction. He filled the high offices of Chief 
 Rabbi in the communities of Kwahl, Kaul, and Kalisch, in 
 Russia, and is the author of a very learned work entitled, 
 " Imre Binah," which he recently printed and published in 
 Jerusalem. He is a gentleman of independent means, and 
 I myself have the pleasure of forwarding to him regularly 
 the remittances derived from his property in Europe. 
 
 On my arrival at his house I was requested to ascend a 
 staircase, to enter thence his sitting-room ; but not being able 
 to accomplish that, chairs were quickly brought into the 
 court-yard, where myself and the party that accompanied 
 me sat down to partake of some refreshments, which our 
 excellent host offered to us. I was here joined by the Haham 
 Bashi, and after a few minutes' conversation we all rose to 
 repair to the Synagogue, where an immense concourse of 
 people awaited our arrival. 
 
 The German Synagogue Beth Yaacob is of special interest 
 to me ; I had the good fortune of being permitted to be
 
 96 
 
 the bearer from Constantinople of the Firman granted by 
 the late Sultan Abd-ool Medjid, giving them permission to 
 build the Synagogue. As we entered the sacred edifice, 
 which, like that of the Sephardiim, was brilliantly illuminated 
 and crowded to excess, I was struck with the magnificent 
 work of carving and gilding above the Ark ; the President 
 told me that it was a free-will offering from one of our 
 brethren in Russia. The iron gallery round the cupola out- 
 side the building, he observed, was also a present from 
 another Israelite in that country. Of the latter I was fully 
 aware, as I just happened to be in Jaffa when Mr. Haim 
 Levy, of Jerusalem, in the year 1866, brought that gallery in 
 a Russian vessel, free of all charge, by order of the Russian 
 Government ; I also met that gentleman subsequently in 
 St. Petersburg. 
 
 The Hazan, with an efficient choir, saluted us with hymns 
 specially composed for the occasion. The Representatives of 
 the Synagogue conducted me to a seat of honour, facing the 
 Ark, placing next to me the Haham Bashi, the Rev. Meyer 
 Auerbach, the Rev. Samuel Salant, and other dignitaries of 
 the Synagogue and their Colleges. 
 
 The circular gallery beneath the cupola, which, owing to 
 its great height, overtops most buildings in Jerusalem, formed, 
 as it were, a wreath of living flowers, by the presence of a 
 great number of ladies in their holiday attire, and every corner 
 of the Synagogue presented a group of cheerful countenances. 
 
 After Minkha and some additional Psalms, prayers were 
 offered up for the Turkish and British Sovereigns ; for the 
 spiritual heads of the Congregations in Jerusalem and 
 London ; for the speedy recovery of the Baroness Meyer de 
 Rothschild and Sir Anthony de Rothschild ; concluding with
 
 97 
 
 an " El Made' Rakhamim" in memory of my lamented wife. 
 The Synagogue situate in the Estate, known by the name of 
 " Khatsar Rabbi Yehooda Hakhassid," is presided over by 
 the Rev. Meyer Auerbach and the Rev. Samuel Salant, and 
 the three members of the Ecclesiastical Court : the Rev. 
 Jacob Juda Leb Lewe, a gentleman with whom I have been 
 in correspondence for many years, the Rev. Mordecai Lupe- 
 law, and the Rev. Jacob Moshe*. There are three Treasurers 
 to administer the income and expenditure — Messrs. Baruch 
 Brill, Ben Zion Lion, and Joel Moshe Salman ; and two 
 Secretaries — Messrs. Joseph Rivlin and Abraham Beharash. 
 The Wardens are at present building an additional ladies' 
 gallery, which will bear the name of "Ohel Yehoodit." On 
 the right of the entrance of that Synagogue there is a room 
 called " Ohel Yaacob," in which instruction is given morning 
 and evening in " Mishnayot " and the Commentaries on the 
 Bible, and in the afternoon, about half-past two, in the 
 Talmud. On the left of the entrance there is another room, 
 in which instruction is given every evening in Bible and 
 " Schoolkhan Arookh." Every Sabbath a lecture is delivered 
 by the Rev. Elia Sarahson, and in the afternoon the whole 
 Book of Psalms is recited. The annual expenditure of the 
 Synagogue amounts to 8,000 piastres (£80), which sum is 
 obtained by the letting of seats and the offerings made by 
 those who are called up to the " Sepher " (HV?^). 
 
 In the same courtyard, not far from the College "Menakhem 
 Zion," there are five public baths (HINIpD) belonging to the 
 Ashkenazim Perooshim Congregation. As I walked out of the 
 Synagogue I was saluted by Mr. Le vitas, the former "Shokhet" 
 of Birmingham, who, with feelings of much gratitude, men- 
 tioned to me the liberal allowance of £100 per annum, which 
 his former Congregation granted him. I may here be allowed 
 to state that Birmingham has several members in their com- 
 
 G
 
 98 
 
 munity who often remember Jerusalem by their generous 
 support of the poor and well deserving in the Holy City. 
 
 Accompanied by theHahamBashi,and the Rev. Meyer Auer- 
 bach, I now paid a visit to my friend, the Rev. Samuel Salant, 
 where reminiscences of old, when we celebrated many years 
 ago the Simkhat Torah in Constantinople, gave an additional 
 zest to the general conversation of the crowded party in the 
 small room ; and after drinking to the welfare of Jerusalem, 
 I left him, with renewed assurances of friendship, for the 
 Yesheebat Beth Guedaliah. I felt already much exhausted 
 from the exertions of the day, but I would not return to my 
 house until I paid that tribute of respect to the memory of 
 my esteemed friend, the late Juda Guedalla. 
 
 On my arrival in the Yesheeba I was met there by the 
 Principal, the Rev. Hah am Elyashar, and all the members of 
 the Institution. The Haham gave an excellent discourse in 
 Hebrew, which was, immediately after him, delivered by Dr. 
 Loewe in English. Everyone present spoke in the most 
 glowing terms of the great merit of the founder, which he 
 so fully deserves, by his founding an Institution for the pro- 
 motion of the study of our Holy Law, and I thus completed 
 the work of the day. 
 
 It was late in the evening when I re-entered my apart- 
 ments, and I was obliged almost immediately to lie down, 
 the ascending and descending of a number of inconvenient 
 stairs having caused me much fatigue and pain. A packet 
 of letters which arrived during the day was handed to me, 
 'out I could not read them. Messengers from Tiberias, 
 oafed, Hebron, and Nablous announced themselves, but it 
 was not in my power to see anyone that evening.
 
 99 
 
 Thursday morning (29 th July) my Medical attendant de- 
 clared it impossible for me to leave my chamber ; and I 
 was most reluctantly obliged to send apologies to his Ex- 
 cellency the Governor and to the English Consul, for not 
 calling on them at the previously appointed hour. All my 
 letters were now placed before me for my perusal, and I 
 requested Dr. Loewe to have his horse saddled for the pur- 
 pose of going to inspect all the land outside the City which 
 had been offered for sale. In the afternoon, the Governor 
 sent his Secretary, George Balet Effendi, to express his 
 regret at my indisposition, offering again to come to me, 
 specially as his official duties would call him away to Gaza, 
 where he would have to remain perhaps several days. This 
 kind and condescending offer, however, I again begged, for 
 the reasons already stated in this Narrative, with a sense of 
 deep gratitude, to decline, as I fully hoped to be yet able to 
 pay first my respects to him. Mr. Consul Moore favoured 
 me with his friendly visit, suggesting a number of means and 
 ways to facilitate my work. 
 
 Towards the evening Dr. Loewe returned with full parti- 
 culars regarding the land he had seen, having arranged that 
 I should be put in possession of all the plans and exact 
 measurements of each field, so as to enable me fully to judge 
 of its value and usefulness for the object in view. 
 
 The Statistical accounts of Tiberias were then examined, 
 and instructions given to the messengers. 
 
 Friday (30th July), being again unable to leave my 
 chamber, I requested Dr. Loewe to inspect the school "Doresh 
 Zion," established by the late Joseph Blumenthal in the year 
 5626, and the " Simon Edlen von Lamel's Stiftung," and 
 report to me on the nature of the education the pupils receive
 
 100 
 
 there, the appearance of the class-rooms, and order of 
 discipline. 
 
 I then read all the letters which were left here in the 
 morning, examined some beautiful needlework, of which a 
 number of ladies requested the favour of my acceptance. 
 Subsequently a plan of a new road as far as Bethlehem, and 
 a report respecting an Hospital for children, by Dr. M. San- 
 dreczki, was submitted to me for my perusal. 
 
 About four o'clock Dr. Loewe returned, giving me the 
 following account of the two schools : — 
 
 "The 'Doresh Zion' school," he said, " is under the direction 
 of a Committee, consisting of the Rev. Isaac Prager, of Oplata, 
 in Hungary, Messrs. A. B. Baumgarten, of Kremsir in 
 Moravia, and I. L. Mendelsohn. There are fifty -four pupils, 
 divided into four classes ; each class in a separate, remark- 
 ably clean, lofty, and airy room, under the tuition of 
 one master. Of those fifty-four pupils, 23 are natives of 
 Jerusalem, the rest come from Inisher, Salonica, Eiden, 
 Brussa, Rhodes, Constantinople, Monastir, Bokhara, Arbat, 
 Fas, Tafilat, Morocco, and Sali. 16 pupils are orphans, 
 10 very poor, 4 wealthy, and the remainder belonging to the 
 class of persons who only now and then stand in need of the 
 support of their friends. 
 
 " The subjects taught are Hebrew Grammar, the Hebrew 
 Bible and the Commentaries thereon, the Talmud and its 
 Commentaries, Writing Rashi and Spanish characters, Arith- 
 metic, and the Arabic language. 
 
 " Class I. has 14 pupils under the tuition of Signor Joseph 
 Haim, the son of the Rev. Isaac Prager.
 
 101 
 
 " Class II. 13 pupils, under the tuition of Signor Jehuda 
 bar Israel. 
 
 " Class III. 14 pupils, under the tuition of Signor Yom 
 Tob Menashe\ 
 
 " Class IV. 13 under the tuition of Signor Abraham Adhan, 
 whose class has two divisions for the pupils coming from the 
 Barbary States. 
 
 " I made all the pupils undergo a strict examination in all 
 the subjects, and was perfectly satisfied." 
 
 On hearing this report I requested Mr. Aikin to accom- 
 pany Dr. Loewe to that school again on another day, so as 
 to have his opinion also regarding the state of salubrity oi 
 the place, and invited the gentlemen of the Committee and 
 all the masters to favour me with their visit, so as to be 
 enabled to hear some more particulars from them on the 
 subject ; I also expressed a wish to see all the pupils. 
 
 Of the " Simon Edlen von Lamel's Stiftung," Dr. Loewe 
 thus observed, " The school is under an Educational Com- 
 mittee, consisting of the Hahamim, Raphael Meyer Fanidjil, 
 Haham Moses ben Viniste, Signor David ben Jacob Viniste, 
 Signor Jacob Cordovero. The school is intended to give 
 instruction to forty pupils, but seven pupils having recently 
 left for the purpose of becoming apprentices to some trade ; 
 there are at present only thirty-three. 
 
 " The pupils are divided into two classes, under the tuition 
 of two Hebrew and one Arabic master ; both classes receive 
 instruction in one large and lofty room. The children range 
 from the age of seven to the age of fifteen.
 
 102 
 
 " The subjects taught are the Hebrew Bible with the 
 Spanish translation, and the Arabic language. I examined 
 them in both these subjects, dictated some passages in Arabic, 
 and made them write each word in my presence ; gave them 
 several questions in grammar, and heard them read portions 
 of biblical history in that language. In Hebrew I gave them 
 to translate several chapters of the Prophets in Spanish, 
 and they all acquitted themselves satisfactorily of their 
 tasks." 
 
 The Report of the above school being also favourable, I 
 requested the gentlemen of the Committee, the masters, and 
 their pupils to favour me with a visit to commune with 
 them further on the subject of education. 
 
 The same day I received again a deputation from Tiberias, 
 referring to the disturbances in their community, and I gave 
 to one of them a special letter to Her Britannic Majesty's 
 Consul- General. 
 
 It was now time to prepare for Sabbath. I could not 
 leave my chamber to join the little congregation in the 
 adjoining Synagogue, but the windows being open, I could 
 hear every word of the prayers, and I was much pleased 
 with the reading of the Hazan Haham Joseph Burla. 
 
 As I subsequently sat down to our Sabbath meal, and 
 pronounced the Kidoosh, all of them came to say " Amen," 
 and it was indeed a source of unspeakable joy tome to see 
 around my table a number of good-looking, well-dressed 
 persons, every one of them looking content and happy. In 
 the Holy Land, however humble the garb of a poor man 
 may be during the days of work, for the holy Sabbath day 
 he has always a very respectable dress to put on, and it is
 
 103 
 
 indeed difficult to notice a difference between rich and poor. 
 The custom to send presents of wine and cake to the visitor 
 of the Holy City still prevails, and many a flask of very old 
 Hebron wine, and many a cake of the best taste graced my 
 Sabbath table. Most of them were decorated with special 
 inscriptions ; the best confectioner in London or Paris 
 needed not to have been ashamed of the elaborate work and 
 tasteful decorations which some of them displayed. 
 
 In the morning, Sabbath (31st July), I attended with 
 great difficulty the prayers in the Synagogue, but it was a 
 great satisfaction to me to join the Congregation, and I felt 
 much delighted with the pleasing and solemn way in which 
 the Kohanim pronounced there the blessing. There being 
 no accommodation in that little Synagogue for ladies, I 
 noticed many of them, all well dressed, attending the service 
 outside in the open courtyard, and when the person who 
 carried the open " Sepher " all round the " TeM " came near 
 the door, they all approached, and reverentially bowed. On 
 leaving the Synagogue, I recognised among them Mrs. 
 Amzalak, the widow of my esteemed friend Mr. Joseph 
 Amzalak, accompanied by her daughter-in-law, and begged 
 of them to favour me with their visit. 
 
 About ten o'clock I had again the honour of receiving the 
 Rev. Haham Bashi, the Rev. Meyer Auerbach, the Rev. Samuel 
 Salant,and the Representatives of other Congregations, also a 
 number of gentlemen belonging to various charitable institu- 
 tions; many of them accompanied by bearers of cake and wine. 
 Our conversation throughout the day was, as a matter of 
 course, principally on subjects connected with Jerusalem and 
 the Holy Land in general. Presently a number of ladies were 
 announced, followed by several attendants carrying various 
 dishes. I requested them to enter, and I was most agreeably
 
 104 
 
 surprised when they told me who they were. "We are," they 
 said, " Representatives of a soup kitchen, and beg of you to 
 partake, of the food which we prepare for the poor." Those 
 ladies, I was informed by the gentlemen present, were of the 
 highest respectability, some of them rich, yet they devote 
 themselves, from pure motives of benevolence, to so good a 
 cause. In compliance with their request we all tasted several 
 of the dishes, and found them very good, so much so, that I 
 begged of the ladies to send me some more of it for my 
 own dinner. 
 
 The object of this Soup kitchen, known in Jerusalem by 
 the Hebrew name of " Tamkhooy," 'tflfcn or DTPTIX HD^H, 
 was, they further informed me, to provide every day soup 
 and vegetables for thirty old and poor unmarried men, who 
 come to take their meals in the house appointed for that 
 purpose ; also for sending the ratio of food to the dwelling 
 of those poor and old men, who cannot, from age or illness, 
 leave their homes. The preparation of the food and the ar- 
 rangement of the table, as well as the whole superintendence, 
 is entirely done by ladies gratuitously. It is supported by 
 voluntary contributions, also by the payment of those who 
 can afford to give a trifle every month for what they eat, 
 and under the special patronage of Messrs. Mordechai Joffe 
 and Fischel Lapin, and Mesdames Joppe, Lippe Anikster, 
 Rebecca Wolfsohn, Schone Hesche Jasawni, Hannah Chaya 
 Rothmann, and Rose Slutzk. Their expenses generally 
 amount to 16,000 piastres per annum (£160). 
 
 Expressing to the ladies the high gratification I feel at 
 such an institution, some of the gentlemen present observed, 
 " But we Germans have, thank God, not less than sixteen 
 charitable institutions of various descriptions." On my re- 
 questing they would name and describe them to me, they
 
 105 
 
 said, " We shall, for the present, only name some of them, as 
 we cannot give full particulars of all from memory." 
 
 1. — " Gemiloot Khassddim," which may also be called a 
 Loan Society, one of its objects being to advance to the poor 
 money without any interest whatsoever, on producing 
 simply a paper from the Community to which he belongs, to 
 the effect of his being entitled to receive a certain sum from 
 . the Caisse of charitable contributions. It is under the special 
 patronage of Messrs. Abraham Gutman, Moses Nowamiesta, 
 Moses Madfis, and Haim Weksener ; there are no expenses 
 whatever incurred in the management of this Institution, even 
 the Secretary, Mr. Schelomo Salman Paroosch, and the 
 Beadle, Mr. Eliezer Salant, do their work gratuitously. It 
 is principally supported by the voluntary subscriptions of 119 
 members, but occasionally they receive a contribution from 
 abroad : it was established in the year 5G29. The Trea- 
 surers state they have now in their possession 55,000 Turkish 
 piastres. They meet every eve of the new moon, half holi- 
 days, and Khanoocah in one of the Committee-rooms adjoining 
 the Synagogue Beth Yaacob. 
 
 2. — " Hakhnasat Orkhim," a kind of hospice, allowing to 
 every person coming to Jerusalem, the first three days after 
 his arrival, board and lodging, without any charge whatever, 
 and he being likewise permitted to remain there until he 
 may have procured for himself a suitable residence. This 
 Institution was founded by the Reverend Samuel of 
 Rogali, in the year 5615. That gentleman bought a house 
 for that purpose in the Khatser shel R. Yehooda Hakhassid 
 which is now under the direction of Mr. Samuel Sidlawer. 
 The Treasurer's name is Mr. Michael Minsk, and the In- 
 stitution receives further support from voluntary contribu- 
 tions made by people in the Holy Land and abroad.
 
 100 
 
 3. — There is another Institution in the courtyard, inhabited 
 by the Rev. Jacob Jehuda Leb Lewe, the Dayan of Jeru- 
 salem, for a similar purpose, bearing also the name of 
 " Hakhnasat Orkhim." The house has been bought by a 
 pious daughter of Israel, who appointed the Rev. Moses 
 Slotki to be the sole Director and Treasurer of the Institu- 
 tion. It receives contributions from many persons in 
 Jerusalem and other places. 
 
 Then they observed, " We have an Institution ' Hakh- 
 nasat Orkhim ' — a room in one of the Bate Makhseh on 
 Mount Sion — for the reception of European and American 
 Jewish travellers, under the direction of Messrs. Meyer 
 Schonbaum, Juda Bergmann and J. J. Goldschmid; any 
 Israelite coming to that Hospice, if only on a visit to Jeru- 
 salem, may remain there until he leaves the Holy City; 
 but if with the intention of remaining in the city, he is 
 permitted to stay until he finds a home." 
 
 My visitor now bid me a " "pSftl DlS^ MW " Shabat- 
 Shalom oo-mebarekh," and myself and the party with me 
 repaired, after a little while, to the Synagogue for Minkha. 
 
 In the evening I received an invitation from the Building 
 Committee of the little Colony called &!$& fiXfi " Meah 
 Shearim " to lay the foundation-stone of a new row of 
 houses. " The Company," they said, " on whose behalf we 
 crave the honour of your presence, numbers now 120 
 members, under the direction of Mr. Salman Beharam 
 assisted by the Treasurer, Mr. Ben Zion Lion, and the 
 Secretary, Mr. Jesaias Ornstein. The object is to build 
 every year not less than ten houses, which, on completion, 
 are to be allotted to ten members. The Company was 
 established but two years ago, and there are already twenty 
 houses built and inhabited."
 
 107 
 
 " There will be a Synagogue, College, and School ; like- 
 wise a public bath in the centre of the square, and a very 
 large cistern for the supply of water." 
 
 On my enquiry whether they were the only Building 
 Society in Jerusalem, they replied, " No, there are two 
 
 others; one bears the appellation of 750^ ptf "Eben 
 Israel," numbers forty-five members, under the direction of 
 the Reverend Meyer Meisel, assisted by the Treasurers, 
 Messrs. Moses Graf, Benisch Salant, Juda Bergmann, Abra- 
 ham Sacks, J. Jellin, and the Secretary, Mr. Joseph Rivlin. 
 They build every year not less than six houses, and are ex- 
 pecting, at the expiration of seven years, every one of the 
 members to have his own house. The Society was estab- 
 lished in the month of Iyar, 5635, on the same principle as 
 the "Meah Shearim" (Dn^E? i1K&) 
 
 The other Building Society, called 3pJP IV!l "Beth 
 Yaacob," numbers seventy members, under the direction of 
 Mr. Moses Graf, and the Treasurer, Mr. Salman Beharan. 
 They propose building every year not less than ten houses. 
 Their property is situate near that of " Meah Shearim " 
 
 So that altogether there will be 235 of our Brethren, in a 
 few years, proprietors of most comfortable houses in a very 
 salubrious locality, outside the city, which they secured 
 unto themselves by their own exertions, by their own 
 money. 
 
 I was delighted with the account those gentlemen gave 
 me, and I promised to avail myself of the honour they 
 conferred upon me by their invitation, if my state of 
 health would permit me, the next day, to do so.
 
 108 
 
 Those 235 persons, at all events, I thought, appear to be 
 animated with the spirit of enterprise, and do not seem to 
 belong to that class of people, of whom some travellers 
 say, that they delight in eating the bread of indolence or 
 charity, else they would not have exerted themselves to 
 live like independent houseowners. 
 
 Sunday (August 1), a lawsuit of rather a serious nature, 
 decided by the Ecclesiastical Court in Jerusalem, in favour 
 of A, which, on appealing to the Court of Justice in Con- 
 stantinople, had been reversed in favour of B, engaged my 
 particular attention this morning. Also a case connected 
 with Educational purposes : — Parties from Egypt having 
 placed their children under the tuition of masters whose 
 views on religion were diametrically opposite to their own. 
 I declined interfering in either of them, from reasons which 
 cannot be well explained here. 
 
 A person from the town of U . . ., stating that he came to 
 enquire whether permission would be given to people coming 
 from his country to purchase some land for agricultural pur- 
 poses, there being, as he stated, a great many who would 
 like to do so, I declined to confer with him, as it appeared 
 to me a great injustice to unsettle the minds of hundreds 
 of families living peaceably in their own homes, by leading 
 them to think that arrangements had already been made, 
 or would easily be made, for their reception and main- 
 tenance by agriculture in the Holy Land. 
 
 The heat of the weather being so very overpowering to- 
 day, my Medical attendant would not allow me to leave 
 the house. I was, therefore, reluctantly obliged to give up 
 the idea of going to the Meah Shearim Colony to lay there 
 the foundation stone of the new row of houses, as I in-
 
 109 
 
 tended. But I requested Dr. Loewe to inspect every one 
 of the houses, and to communicate to me all the particulars 
 of his visit to our enterprising friends. I also begged of 
 him to examine the exact locality of several fields and gar- 
 dens outside the city, which had been offered to me for sale 
 last Friday. Dr. Loewe now placed in my hands a large 
 bundle of letters which had just arrived, and within five 
 minutes he was on horseback. 
 
 A number of mechanics "iTTC v^lS m^PI," were an- 
 nounced, seeking an interview with me, but I was unable to 
 receive them to-day in consequence of some pressing corres- 
 pondence I had. About four o'clock in the afternoon, Dr. 
 Loewe returned with a full account of every one of the 
 houses. He had been, he said, all around the boundaries of 
 the whole Crescent (such being the intended form of the 
 buildings), entered into every one of the houses, spoke to 
 all the inmates, saw the school, a very large airy room occu- 
 pied by a number of children and a master ; the large cis- 
 tern, and the places intended for various important build- 
 ings of the Society and brought a photographic plan with 
 him of the whole Estate. He also went to inspect the land 
 belonging to the other two Building Societies, and expressed 
 himself highly satisfied. Of the fields and gardens which I 
 requested him to see, I was promised to receive in a day or 
 two plans and all particulars. 
 
 Before Minkha prayers I had the honour of receiving the 
 members of *1P1N TITS?* " Yeeheebat Ekhod ; all natives of 
 Constantinople. The College bearing the name ITlX "Ekhod," 
 represents, according to the numerical value of the letters, 
 the exact number of inmates of which the Yesheeba is com- 
 posed, viz.; thirteen, a number indicating the unity of God. 
 They were all introduced to me by their respective names : —
 
 110 
 
 Haham Sabti Akusti, Ha. Simeon Salmuna, Ha. Nissim 
 Kaloam, Ha. Nissim Fresco, Ha. Bekhor Anikowah, Ha. 
 Sabti Yehoshooa, Ha. Joseph Anav, Ha. Samuel Kamkhi, 
 Ha. Mercado Kamkhi, Ha. Naphtali Halevi, Ha. Jacob 
 Cohen, Ha. Isaac Farash, and Ha. Yehoshooa Orania, accom- 
 panied by their attendant, Iskhak Cohen, and I was much 
 pleased with their conversation. 
 
 Monday (August 2nd), deputations from Hebron were 
 this morning announced, and I received them in my cham- 
 ber, as I felt too weak to meet them in the reception room. 
 They gave me a satisfactory account of the state of the Com- 
 munity, but pointed strongly out the necessity of having a 
 Medical man and a Dispensary. I was fully aware of that 
 from several former communications, but the means of 
 allowing fixed salaries to Medical officers in Hebron, 
 Tiberias and Safed are not yet obtained ; possibly in some 
 future time the wishes of our Hebron Brethren may be 
 realized. Subsequently the Russian Consul honoured me 
 with a visit, and kindly assured me, when speaking on the 
 difficulty of finding an appropriate house near the Jaffa 
 gate, that he would have felt much pleasure in offering me 
 accommodation in the Russian establishment, where he said, 
 " There is a kind of hotel for welcome guests." I expressed 
 my warmest acknowledgements to the Consul for the friendly 
 offer, and told him that I always recall to my memory the 
 frequent marks of attention I had the honour of receiving 
 from the Russian Government. 
 
 The Kawass now announced the Sheikh of the Haram 
 (the Mosque of Omar). He expressed great pleasure in see- 
 ing me again, after so many years since my former visit to 
 Jerusalem, and brought me an impression of Arabic and Cufic 
 inscriptions, which are placed around a plan of the Mosque.
 
 Ill 
 
 Dr. Loewe, on seeing them, said they contain many passages 
 from the Koran, inscribed on the palm of a hand, which, the 
 Sheikh called " the hand of Moses :" — on four swords, bear- 
 ing, according to Mohammadan tradition, the appellation of 
 " the swords of Moses," together with impressions from the 
 seal of the founder of the Mooslem religion ; — the signets of 
 several Sheikhs holding office in the Haram, and an inscrip- 
 tion on the al-menber or preaching-chair. The appellation 
 of " Hand of Moses," " Sword of Moses," originates most 
 probably, observed Dr. Loewe, from an inscription which 
 commences with the words ^,. \{i " And Moses said." 
 A little after he left, another Sheikh arrived, claiming also 
 old acquaintanceship. He gave me a full account of the 
 improvements which had been made in the Haram by 
 the present Sultan, and the noble gifts which he sent to 
 that glorious spot, the Haram, which, he said, was so dear 
 to us all. 
 
 Tuesday (August 3rd) Mrs. Rachel Rassyeh, Directoress of 
 a girls' school, begged leave to introduce 60 of her pupils, 
 varying from the age of 4 to 14, for examination in Hebrew 
 reading, Translation of Hebrew Prayers and Bible, Reading 
 German in Hebrew character, and a variety of needlework, 
 which the pupils brought with them to show their ability. 
 
 Mrs. Rachel Rassyeh was accompanied by two assistant 
 teachers — Mrs. Bella Janive and Zebia of Warsaw. 
 
 Mrs. Sarah Press, a Directoress of another girls' school, 
 with 25 pupils, Mrs. Pesse with 24 pupils, and Mrs. Reine 
 with 13 pupils, also presented their pupils for examination, 
 so that there have been not less than 122 girls. They were 
 all neatly dressed and good-looking. I requested them to 
 enter one after the other, by groups of ten or fifteen, as many
 
 112 
 
 as the room would allow, and then made them withdraw and 
 had others come in, so that I might have the opportunity of 
 seeing them all. 
 
 Hebrew books, Prayer books, Bibles, Commentaries on the 
 Bible written in the German language with Hebrew charac- 
 ters, and Ethical works were put on the table, and I was 
 requested by the Directoress to select any page or passage I 
 might choose for examination, and likewise to point out any 
 of her pupils to be examined. 
 
 I requested Dr. Loewe to conduct the examination, so as 
 to be thoroughly convinced of the efficiency of the pupils. 
 We had in the room thirty-four girls. I give their exact 
 names and ages : — 
 
 Hayele, 4 years old, Jentel 5, Rebecca, 6, Estherca 6, 
 Mindel 6, Schondel 7, Esther 7, Rachel 7, Jettel 8, Rachel 8, 
 Hannah Deborah 8, Alte 8, Rachel S. 8, Rachel L. 8, Han- 
 nah 9, Nechama 9, Esther 9, Nechama 9, Debora 9, Jettel 9, 
 Schimke 9, Mirel 9, Nechama 9, Esther 9, Taube 10, Ba- 
 dane 10, Chawah 11, Zebyah 11, Frommkind 12, Baschi 
 Feige 12, Hannah 12, Bascha 12, Rachel 12, Bascha R. 
 Elias 14. 
 
 The examination lasted for several hours, and there was 
 every reason to be perfectly satisfied with the result. 
 
 Refreshments were handed round, and I took the oppor- 
 tunity of conversing with many of them, and I was de- 
 lighted with their manners and lady-like conduct. 
 
 When they had all left, I began to feel the fatigue of 
 seeing and conversing with too many people, and I was
 
 113 
 
 obliged to return to my chamber. I passed a very restless 
 night, and Mr. Aikin said it would be very imprudent for 
 me even to attempt leaving the house. 
 
 Being desirous to ascertain the subjects taught in the 
 Eveline Rothschild Girls' School, I requested Dr. Loewe in 
 the morning to go there ; and also begged of him to notice 
 the number of pupils. 
 
 Wednesday (Aug. 4). I had again, during the day, to 
 read and examine the statements made in numerous letters, 
 referring either to some scheme of improving the condition 
 of our Brethren, or to some cause of charity ; and received 
 several gentlemen who came from the Khabad Community 
 in Jerusalem. 
 
 Dr. Loewe returning towards the evening, gave a full 
 account of the Eveline Rothschild Girls' School. He said : 
 " There were 119 girls, divided into two classes — I. and II. — 
 each class being in a separate room, under the tuition of 
 three ladies and two gentlemen. Subjects taught in Class 
 I., numbering 52 pupils are, Hebrew, Writing, and Arith- 
 metic, by Mr. Elihu Bekhar Juda ; Religion, by Mrs. Bek- 
 hora di Burla ; and Needlework, by Mrs. Shifra. In Class 
 II., numbering 63 pupils, subjects taught are, Religion, by 
 Jacob Khay Burla, and Needlework, by Benvenida Mehu- 
 dar." Dr. Loewe examined several pupils in both classes, 
 and expressed himself much pleased. The appearance of 
 the pupils was very satisfactory ; all of them were neatly 
 dressed." I appointed a day to see all the masters of that 
 school. 
 
 Thursday (5th Aug.). Distressing accounts having reached 
 me regarding the spread of the cholera, I was anxious to 
 
 n
 
 114 
 
 have several houses whitewashed, and a number of streets 
 thoroughly cleansed, removing the refuse out of the city. I 
 gave first the commission to one person who had done some 
 similar work for me before, but could not come to any ar- 
 rangement with him. I then sent for another, who, I 
 thought, would surely be able to undertake the work ; but 
 he put himself in communication with another party, which 
 I did not desire him to do, and I was obliged to give up my 
 original intention. 
 
 I had some conversation on the subject of general drain- 
 age in Jerusalem with a gentleman of authority ; he told 
 me that all the refuse of the city is now carried into the 
 Pool of Bethesda, which, strange to say, I was informed is 
 close to the house intended for the barracks, and the soldiers 
 living therein appear not to experience the least incon- 
 venience on account of its vicinity. If arrangements could 
 be made to clear that pool entirely, to admit pure 
 water only, and to dig special pools for the purpose of con- 
 ducting there the city drains, Jerusalem might become free 
 from any threatening epidemic. All the Doctors in Jeru- 
 salem assured me that the Holy City might be reckoned, on 
 account of the purity of the atmosphere, as one of the 
 healthiest places. 
 
 Friday (August 6th), I had occasion to see the work of 
 eight mechanics : a watchmaker, an engraver, a litho- 
 grapher, a sculptor, a goldsmith, a bookbinder, and carpenter, 
 and all did their work most satisfactorily. The watch- 
 maker, Joshua Fellman, into whose hands I put a valuable 
 repeater for repairs, put it within a very short time in ex- 
 cellent order. The same man, in addition to his skill as a 
 watchmaker, displays also great talent as a Hebrew cali- 
 graphist. He presented me with a grain of wheat, on which 
 he wrote nineteen lines, forming an acrostic on my name.
 
 115 
 
 The engraver engraved for myself, and several of my party, 
 Hebrew inscriptions in the best style. The lithographer, 
 Mr. David Spitzer, a native of Hungary, lithographed a 
 number of address cards for me, after a pattern I gave him 
 of a London made card. I could scarcely find out the differ- 
 ence between the one and the other. The sculptor, to whom 
 I gave the order in the evening to prepare two stones for 
 me with inscriptions of the verse, IT^IX PK T*7iy. W*] ^2 
 *ll?irV PHSy nXI "For thy servants take pleasure in her 
 stones," etc. (Ps. cii. 15), accompanied by the date of my 
 sojourn in Jerusalem, did the work in one night. The 
 goldsmith made a number of rings, tablets and cases. 
 The tinman made two large cases for my books and papers. 
 The bookbinder bound the statistical accounts in very good 
 style, and the carpenter gave equal satisfaction ; he did his 
 work as well as any English carpenter could have done. 
 
 I was again greatly disappointed when my medical 
 attendant would not allow me to leave my apartments, and 
 I was obliged to commission Dr. Loewe and Mr. Aikin to do 
 the work which I was so anxious to have done myself, to 
 inspect the Touro Almshouses, the windmill, and the whole 
 of the Estate " Kerem Mosh^ ve-Yehoodit." 
 
 On their return, they told me they had been in everyone 
 of the houses, and spoken to all the inmates ; they found all 
 the apartments remarkably clean, and the occupants thereof, 
 with the exception of one, Mr. Moshe Cohen, in full en- 
 joyment of health. They also entered the four new houses 
 for the occupation of which I have already nominated four 
 deserving families, and assured me that they were well built, 
 and in every respect like the old houses. They ascended to 
 the top of the windmill, and found everything perfect, with 
 the exception of the millstones, which are a little worn 
 but not to such an extent as to prevent grinding ; the garden, 
 and the wall all round they considered to be in perfect order.
 
 116 
 
 I was particularly pleased with their account of the wind- 
 mill, as I had a double object in building it — to benefit the 
 poor and encourage industry. According to Paragraphs V. 
 and VIII. in the Agreement, " The poor should always 
 have their wheat ground at a reduced price ; they are to 
 pay for each measure two parahs less than the charge would 
 be to any other person not classed among the poor; and 
 when both poor and rich persons come at the same time to 
 have their corn ground, precedence should always be given 
 to the poor." 
 
 On enquiring for some particulars regarding the names of 
 the present occupiers of Mishkenot Shaananim, and the 
 number of souls in each house, Dr. Loewe stated as follows : — 
 
 Of those who belong to the Sephardiim, I have seen 
 Mrs. Sultana, the widow of the late Haham 
 Bashi, R David Hazan, her daughter and a servant . 3 
 Haham Yitzkhak Cohen and his wife .... 2 
 
 Haham Joseph Taragan, his wife, son and daughter, and 
 an infant (girl) ....... 5 
 
 Haham Joseph Nissim Burla, his wife, two 
 
 daughters and two sons ...... 6 
 
 Haham Abraham Cohen, his wife and two sons . . 4 
 Haham David Trabloos, his wife, son, and two daughters 5 
 Rebecca, the widow of Hah&m Penso, bier son and two 
 
 grand-daughters (orphans) 4 
 
 Sool, the widow of H^ham Abraham Kharoosh, her two 
 sons and two daughters ...... 5 
 
 Simkha, wife of Jacob Khaziza the baker, her son, and 
 two daughters 4 
 
 38 
 
 And of those who belong to the Ashkenazim : — 
 
 The Widow Khriye Pv,assyeh Rivlin, her two sons and 
 daughter ... ....
 
 117 
 
 Gesche, the widow of It. Benjamin Lilienthal, and her 
 three sons ......... 4 
 
 Mr. Solomon Elbe the weaver, his wife, son, and 
 daughter ......... 4 
 
 Mr. Meyer Flungian, his wife, son, and daughter . . 4 
 Mr. Aaron Fellhandler and his wife . . . 2 
 
 Mr. Moshe Meyer, of Wasla'i, and his wife . . .2 
 Mr. Moshe Cohen and his wife . . . . .2 
 
 The Widow Rachel Leah and her two sons (her husband 
 had been killed last year by one of the sentinels at 
 
 the Jaffa Gate) 3 
 
 The Widow Selda and her daughter . . . 2 
 
 Amounting altogether to 65 souls. 
 
 27 
 
 The Widow Rachel Leah, who occupies a small room in 
 the house of her foster-parent, Mr. Moshe Cohen, Dr. Loewe 
 observed, has with her one daughter, who is married to a 
 person of the name of Eliah. Unfortunately, he has gone to 
 Cairo, with a view of seeking some employment there, and 
 nothing has been heard of him for a long time. Mr. Aaron 
 Fellhandler's son-in-law, a son of the Rev. Samuel Hellir, of 
 Safed, came to Jerusalem with the intention of consulting 
 the physicians respecting a weakness in his eyes. Mr. Aikin 
 kindly offered to prescribe for him ; but the patient, pro- 
 bably from some nervous affection, would not allow him to 
 touch his eyelids. 
 
 I have much pleasure in availing myself of this oppor- 
 tunity to record here how much my friend Mr. Aikin made 
 himself endeared to all the poor patients who presented 
 themselves to him, by his most kind and efficient medical 
 advice, accompanied by ever-ready assistance. They surely 
 will long remember him, and invoke the blessings of 
 Heaven upon him for his benevolence and skill.
 
 118 
 
 The roofs of the houses occupied by the widow Lilienthal 
 and by Mrs. Simkha Khaziza require some repairs. Both 
 the Synagogues of the Portuguese and Germans adjoin- 
 ing the " Mishkenot Shaananim," Dr. Loewe said, were 
 remarkably well kept. It was suggested by the inmates 
 (1) that the key of the public bath should be under the 
 special charge of one of the inmates ; (2) that the person 
 who might happen to be in possession of the mill should 
 grind their corn, so that they need not have to carry it into 
 the city for that purpose ; (3) that they be permitted to 
 take water, in the event of their own cisterns becoming 
 empty, from those which are in the adjoining garden near 
 the mill ; (4) to have shutters affixed to all the windows, so 
 as to prevent thieves entering the houses; (5) to make a 
 proper pavement of square smooth stones in front of the 
 houses, so that the rain-water which passes over into the 
 cisterns may not become mixed with the mud which, during 
 the winter season, covers the present pavement ; (6) to 
 have a permanent awning made in front of the houses so 
 as to shelter them, on the east and west sides, from the 
 powerful rays of the sun, 
 
 In accordance with the report, I have taken all the above 
 suggestions into consideration, and promised to several of 
 the inmates whom I had subsequently occasion to see, to do 
 as much as there is in my power to make them all com- 
 fortable in their dwellings. 
 
 The time now was near the hour to prepare for Sabbath, 
 and several gentlemen already entered the house for 
 Minkha. I joined the Congregation in prayers, saw again 
 most of them present when I recited in my room the 
 blessing of Kidoosh, and, being always well provided with 
 the best wine, I made the cup pass round as often as pos- 
 sible, and felt happy with the pleasing countenances all 
 around me,
 
 119 
 
 In the morning I noticed in the Synagogue several gentle- 
 men from Hebron and Tiberias, and on the terrace, like the 
 Sabbath before, some well dressed ladies, reciting their 
 prayers with great devotion. 
 
 After Kidoosh the good ladies' committee of the soup 
 kitchen brought some excellent dishes of Khameen (j^Pl) or 
 " Riscaldato," of which I and all my party cheerfully par- 
 took. Being the Sabbath preceding the Fast, I had not so 
 many visitors, and devoted the greater part of the day to the 
 reading of the Parasha and the commentaries thereon, ex- 
 pounded to me by Dr. Loewe. 
 
 Sunday morning (8th August) I passed a most uncom- 
 fortable night ; I suffered from indisposition occasioned by 
 the change of diet, and I had to remain confined to my 
 chamber. But I nevertheless saw, in the course of the 
 day, several parties belonging to the working classes, and 
 considered their applications. They stand much in need of 
 material for their respective work and trade, also of im- 
 proved implements ; if anyone in Europe were to send such 
 to them, at a reasonable price, the mechanic in Jerusalem 
 would be sure of making a good profit by his work ; as it 
 now is, they have to pay such a high price for the material 
 that the work leaves them but a very small profit. 
 
 I was anxious to have a correct report of the Talmud 
 Tora Schools belonging to the German and Morocco Con- 
 gregations ; I also wished to inspect the Rothschild Hospital 
 and all the charitable institutions the esteemed members of 
 that family established in Jerusalem, but it being impossible 
 for me to do it personally, I requested Dr. Loewe and 
 Mr. Aikin to visit them; I myself took up my usual 
 work, to read the letters which had been left with me 
 last Friday, and replied to all those which required immediate
 
 120 
 
 consideration. Nearly the whole of the day was occupied 
 with necessary enquiries regarding the character of a number 
 of persons who thus addressed me. 
 
 Towards evening the gentlemen I sent to inspect and ex- 
 amine the schools returned with most satisfactory accounts 
 Dr. Loewe stated that their first visit had been to the Talmud 
 Tora School of the Ashkenazim Perooshim, situate in the 
 Estate known by the name of Khatsar R. Yehooda 
 Hakhassid. 
 
 "There are," he said, " 128 pupils, divided into 13 classes, 
 under the tuition of 13 masters, each class in a separate 
 room ; three inspectors, and a committee of three gentlemen, 
 the latter serving gratuitously. No. 1 is the highest, and 
 No. 13 the lowest class. We began the examination with 
 that class and terminated with No. 1. 
 
 Class 13, the most elementary class: here 9 pupils are 
 taught the alphabet, by R. Mosheh Cohen, of Huradna ; 
 receiving a salary of 72 piastres per month. 
 
 No. 12 numbers 13 pupils, being taught the diacritical 
 points and the reading of prayers, by R. Jaacob, of Minsk ; 
 at a salary of 100 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 11, numbering 17 pupils, who are taught the 
 Pentateuch and Hebrew Grammar by R. Abraham, of 
 Ponewies : receiving a salary of 140 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 10, numbering 12 pupils, receive instruction in the 
 Pentateuch, the Commentary of Moses Mendelsohn (*11J< ,, 2) 
 and Hebrew Grammar by R. Moses, of Huradna, at a salary 
 of 170 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 0, numbering 12 pupils, who are taught Pentateuch
 
 121 
 
 and the commentary of Rabbi Shelomo Yitzkhaki ( V/ 8JH) 
 by R. Samuel, of Minsk : salary 120 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 8 numbering 10 pupils, receive instruction in the 
 Hebrew Bible, Mishna and Khayeh Adam by R. Zebi, of 
 Kowno, at a salary of 1G0 piastres per month. 
 
 In this class such pupils enter whose mental capacities 
 would not enable them ever to become distinguished students. 
 They are sent out to become apprentices to some trade as 
 soon as the opportunity presents itself, and the money 
 ready to pay the master. The room in which this class 
 was held appeared to us considerably smaller than the 
 others, and we called the attention of the Committee to it. 
 In reply, they observed, that the room in question had been 
 procured by the money of a certain endowment made by 
 the late Lyon Moses, Esq., of Aldgate, London, and they had, 
 for the present, not the means to enlarge it. In reference to 
 the pupils in this class, the Committee observed on the great 
 benefit they would derive, if certain funds were at their 
 disposal to engage permanently a number of clever me- 
 chanics to teach them a trade : allowing them an hour or 
 two every day to learn the most necessary subjects for their 
 religious education. 
 
 Class 7, numbering 8 pupils, who are taught the Talmud 
 without any commentary by R. Dob Poniwis, the latter 
 receiving a salary of 140 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 6, numbering 10 pupils, who receive instruction in 
 the whole Hebrew Bible, and the Talmud and Commentary, 
 by the Rev. Zebi, of Pinsk, having a salary of 120 piastres 
 per month. 
 
 Class 5 has 8" pupils ; the subjects of instruction being
 
 122 
 
 the same as in Class 6, only more advanced ; taught by Mr. 
 Joseph Cohen, at a salary of 1G0 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 4, numbering 8 pupils ; the subjects of instruction 
 being the same as Class 5, but more advanced ; taught by 
 Mr. See'b Sapir, at a salary of 150 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 3 has 9 pupils ; subjects of instruction, more ad- 
 vanced, taught by Mr. H. L. Mutes, the latter receiving a 
 salary of 1G0 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 2, having 9 pupils ; the same subjects still more 
 advanced taught by Mr. Jacob bar Shemaryah, who has 
 a salary of 180 piastres per month. 
 
 Class 1 has 6 pupils, being taught, in addition to the 
 Talmud and its Commentaries, also the codes of law, by the 
 Rev. Judel, of Lomza, at a salary of 200 piastres per month. 
 
 " The Caisse of Talmud Tora belonging to the Ashkenazim 
 Perooshim, has thus an expenditure of 1872 piastres, about 
 £18 every month, for the religious education of 123 pupils, 
 The treasurers of the institution are Messrs. Fischel Lapin, 
 Eleazer Salkind, and Nathan Gningort, the Banker, of the 
 firm ' Joffe and Griingort.' " 
 
 Mr. Aikin was much pleased with the healthy appearance 
 of most of the pupils, the cleanliness of the rooms, and their 
 appropriate sizes, with the exception of that containing the 
 pupils of Class 8. 
 
 " The gentlemen of the Committee informed us," continued 
 Dr. Loewe to observe, " that they have in their Community 
 also twenty-five private schools, the salary of the teachers
 
 123 
 
 being in the same proportion as that of the teachers in the 
 Talmud Tora School. 
 
 " The school belonging to the Morocco Congregation," Dr. 
 Loewe said, " is situate in their Hospice called Bate' Makhseh. 
 Although we only intended to examine the pupils, the Rev. 
 Haham David Bar Shimeon, the esteemed head of that Com- 
 munity, took us into every room occupied by widows and 
 other families residing in that institution. He took us even 
 into the public bath (Hlp/b) adjoining that place, and we all 
 took up the water with'our hands ; it was as clean and pure as 
 any spring water we might have seen in any European 
 bathing establishment." 
 
 Considering that most strict observers of religion in Jeru- 
 salem use at least every Friday a public bath, their state of 
 cleanliness must be more satisfactory than that of many 
 others living in the Holy City, and there are public baths 
 adjoining almost every place of worship in Jerusalem. 
 
 " The room in which the pupils received their instruc- 
 tions," Dr. Loewe remarked, " was very large and lofty, and 
 I met there fifty-six scholars, under the tuition of Signor 
 Joseph ben Sano, looking well and healthy. 
 
 " I examined them in several portions of the Hebrew 
 Bible with the Arabic translation, and I had every reason 
 to be pleased with them. 
 
 " On leaving the Hospice of the Morocco Congregation, we 
 went to the German Soup-kitchen. Two small rooms and 
 a little courtyard in front constituted the space intended 
 for the reception of the poor. We examined almost every 
 corner, even the kitchen, and we noticed the utmost clean-
 
 124 
 
 liness. We all sat down there to take our dinner, and fully 
 enjoyed it. We requested the ladies and gentlemen who 
 attended there to send you, Sir Moses, a portion of the 
 dishes they offered to us. Subsequently we visited the 
 Rothschilds' Hospital, where Dr. Schwarz kindly permitted 
 us to inspect every room — saw all the patients, the dispen- 
 sary, the kitchen, and magazine, tasted the soup given to 
 the patients — and found every thing in excellent order. We 
 also entered the adjoining little Synagogue, saw the cases in 
 which the linen is kept for distribution among the poor 
 women in accouchement : — this being an institution founded 
 by the charity of the Baroness Betty de Rothschild, which 
 entitles ten poor women in confinement, and their babes, to 
 receive every month the necessary linen, and a gift of ten 
 francs — and left the Hospital perfectly satisfied with the 
 noble exertions of the founders, and those to whom the 
 management had been entrusted for the alleviation of the 
 sufferings of our poor brethren and sisters. 
 
 Dr. Schwarz told us, on that occasion, that, by the charity 
 of Madame Mathilde Cohen (the wife of M. Albert Cohen, 
 of Paris), 269 loaves of bread are distributed every week 
 among the poor ; of which number the Sephardiim receive 
 145, the Maarbiim 30, the Perooshim 40, the Volhynian 24, 
 the Austrian 25, and the "Habad" 5 loaves. By the charity 
 of M. Albert Cohen, 23 poor apprentices to trade receive 
 monthly 15 piastres, and, every evening, religious instruc- 
 tions from the Rev. Isaac Prager, the pastor of the hospital." 
 
 I was much pleased with the interesting information 
 Dr. Loewe and Mr. Aikin gave me of their day's work, and 
 made several memoranda in reference to the institutions they 
 had visited. 
 
 Towards the evening messengers arrived from Safed,
 
 125 
 
 giving distressing accounts of the place, in consequence of 
 the great number of persons from Damascus who took up 
 their abode among them, in hopes of escaping the effects of 
 the cholera, which they said was raging in that city. They 
 implored me to cause a Medical man permanently to reside 
 with them, as there had been a great deal, of illness in Safed 
 since the last month. I assured them that steps had 
 already been taken, in compliance with a former similar 
 request of their Community, to obtain a medical officer for 
 their Holy City. Among my own party, I regret to say, 
 Mr. Aikin just entered to tell me several cases of serious 
 indisposition had occurred, which made me indeed feel 
 anxious, but my trust in God's great mercy, which hitherto 
 has never forsaken me, animated me with hope that health 
 would again soon be restored unto them, and unto myself, 
 so as to be enabled to accomplish my task in the Holy 
 Land. 
 
 Monday (9th August, IK} H^^n 21$), I requested my 
 Medical attendant to take the Hospital Bate Kholim of the 
 Ashkenazim Perooshim by surprise, and endeavour to be 
 present during the consultations when the outdoor patients 
 arrive. He had already been there once together with 
 Dr. Loewe, when two wards, one for men and the other for 
 women, had been visited by them, where they found every 
 bed occupied by a patient. Each ward, they then said, had 
 eight beds for the accommodation of patients. They also, 
 on that occasion, visited the Dispensary, which I had sent 
 to Jerusalem under the charge of a Physician, in the year 
 1843. Dr. Loewe, who saw it when it came from the 
 Apothecaries' Hall, in London, assured me that all the furni- 
 ture, including every bottle, drawer, case, or barrel appeared 
 as perfect as it had been when first forwarded to the Holy 
 City. Mr. Aikin, on the day of their visit, spoke to every
 
 126 
 
 one of the patients to ascertain the nature of his illness, 
 so as to convince himself whether it was not mere poverty 
 which induced him to crave permission to enter the Hos- 
 pital ; he also examined the register of prescriptions, and the 
 drugs and medicines in bottles and in cases ; and had a long 
 interview with Dr. Puffeles, the Director of the Hospital, to 
 learn all the particulars respecting the patients. Dr. Loewe also 
 visited it alone, very early in the morning, on one day last 
 week. To-day I was anxious to ascertain whether the out- 
 door patients who applied for advice and medicine were in 
 reality suffering from illness, or merely applied there with a 
 view of obtaining relief. 
 
 Being the eve of the Fast, the 9th day of Ab, I could not 
 see my Medical attendant to hear his report. 
 
 The devotion with which prayers in our Synagogue had 
 been this evening recited, were of a most soul-stirring 
 character. To hear the cries, to see the almost unceasing 
 flow of tears, to witness the extinction of the lights and the 
 foreheads of every one of the Community touching the 
 ground: exclaiming '^WpH J T\?1N$ HX DP!")]! vb TO TV" 
 is a scene which can never be forgotten, even by those 
 whose hearts are otherwise callous to the cry of Jerusalem. 
 
 Tuesday (10th August, 3X3 PiyBTl). The whole day 
 was spent, after prayers, in complete retirement, but the 
 evening, after the breaking of the fast, numerous calls have 
 been made enquiring after my state of health after the 
 fast. 
 
 Wednesday (11th August). Received visits from a deputa- 
 tion of Armenian priests, who came to express the sentiments 
 of friendship on behalf of the Armenian patriarch ; Mr.
 
 127 
 
 Consul Moore, Dr. M. Sandreczki, Dr. Schwarz, Astriades 
 Effendi, Mr. Valero, and a deputation from Shekhem 
 (Nablous). News respecting the cholera was very unsatis- 
 factory. No steamer, it is apprehended, will be permitted 
 to enter the Harbour of Jaffa, and all who come from the 
 coast of Syria will have to perform a quarantine of ten or 
 fifteen days. 
 
 Mr. Aikin gave me to-day the report of his visit to the 
 Bate Kholim Hospital. He had been with Dr. Puffeles for 
 more than two and a-half hours, seeing all the out-door 
 patients who came to the Doctor for advice and medicine. 
 He examined every case himself, and was quite certain that 
 none of those whom he had seen there — and there were a 
 good many of them — could have come for any other pur- 
 pose but for receiving advice to alleviate or entirely to cure 
 some illness from which they were suffering. He was 
 equally pleased with the care and unceasing attention of 
 the Hospital Committee ; and in his approbation, which is 
 recorded by himself in the Register kept in the Bate Kho- 
 lim, bearing date the 15th August, 1875, he most strongly 
 recommended it to the support of every friend of hu- 
 manity. 
 
 On making enquiries whether the Germans had any 
 benevolent societies among themselves to support the sick 
 and poor in their own houses, and to attend them in that 
 awful moment when, by the will of God, the patient is or- 
 dained to leave his terrestrial abode, some of their Com- 
 munity who just then happened to be with me, enumerated 
 not less than four among the Perooshim Community alone. 
 
 "There is," they said, "the 'Bikoor Kholim,' "fip^ 
 D vin, under the direction of Mr. Yokhanan Hirsch Schlank,
 
 128 
 
 assisted by a Committee of four treasurers, Messrs. Shelomo 
 Salman Levi, Abraham Rabensohn, Abraham Yitzkhak 
 Paroosh, and Abraham Frost. 
 
 The Gemiloot Khassadim, DHDPI n*ITfi3, numbering 119 
 members, under the direction of Mr. Abraham Gutmann, 
 and a Committee of three treasurers, Messrs. Moses Nova- 
 miesta, Moses Madns, and Haim Weksener. (This Society 
 combines with its functions also those of a Loan Society, 
 already mentioned.) 
 
 The Khebra Kadeesha Nt^Hp X"On, numbering 156 mem- 
 bers, under the direction of the Rev. Meyer Meanikscht, 
 one of the most worthy and learned Representatives of the 
 Samot Congregation, and assisted by a Committee of six 
 gentlemen — the Rev. Abraham Eisenstein, Messrs. Nova- 
 miesta, Yokhanan Zebi Schlank, Elieser Dan Beharalbag, 
 Seeb Wolfinsohn, and Shelomo Salman Levi. 
 
 In connection with this Society must be mentioned a 
 charitable gift of a most worthy and pious lady, Madame 
 Debora Pollack, formerly residing at Konigsberg, in Prussia ; 
 subsequently she removed to Berlin, where, eight or ten 
 years ago, she died. Madame Pollack bought a plot of 
 ground on the Moimt Olives for the purpose of interment, 
 and favoured that Society with several contributions of 
 money. 
 
 The Society " Derekh Hakhayim," E M Pin *|TT numbering 
 106 members under the presidency of the Rev. Gershon 
 Sopher, assisted by the Treasurer, Mr. Zebi Slonim. This 
 Society has but recently been established for enabling the 
 mechanics and tradespeople to have every day an appointed 
 hour for Biblical studies. Combined with this object is
 
 129 
 
 also that of attending the sick, assisting them as far as it 
 ma}' be in their power, and rendering the necessary solace 
 and comfort in the last hour. 
 
 Their expenditure amounts annually to about four thou- 
 sand piastres, and there are, my informants added, similar 
 societies among the other Hebrew Communities in Je- 
 rusalem. 
 
 In accordance with my instructions, Dr. Loewe visited 
 the Hospice of the Pilgrims and the Bate' Makhseh, situate 
 on Mount Zion, an Institution established by our German 
 brethren oh the Continent ; also the Bate Makhseh of the 
 of the Sephardiim Community, and he gave me the following 
 particulars : — 
 
 " The Hospice of the Pilgrims, and the Bdte* Makhseh were 
 founded fifteen years ago by the order of a Central Com- 
 mittee in Germany, consisting of three members : the late 
 Rev. Jacob Ettlinger, Chief Rabbi of Altona, Mr. Joseph 
 Hirsch, a merchant in Halberstadt, and the Rev. Dr. Israel 
 Hildesheimer, then Chief Rabbi in Eisenstadt, now in 
 Berlin, who raised funds from among our benevolent 
 Brethren in Germany for the purpose of providing ten poor 
 deserving families with a house free of rent for three years. 
 Since that time several distinguished Israelites in Germany 
 have added to the numbers of houses by their own benevo- 
 lence. 
 
 " The death of the Rev. J. Ettlinger and Mr. Joseph Hirsch 
 deprived the Central Committee of the zealous co-operation 
 of two of its members, in whose stead entered Messrs. 
 Akeeba Lehren of Amsterdam ; Gumprech Hirsch of Berlin ; 
 and the Rev. Haim Zebi Manheimer, Chief Rabbi of Ungwar. 
 There are now thirty-seven houses inhabited by deserving 
 
 i
 
 130 
 
 members of the several Communities. Of these, four had 
 been built by the brothers Hirsch, of Halberstadt : bearing 
 the name of Newell Shalom Dl /£? HIJ after the name of 
 their late brother Shalom ; three by Mr. Aaron Scheyer, of 
 Frankfort-on-the-Maine ; one house named " Ohel Shelomo," 
 built in memory of Rev. Shelomo Uhnan, late Chief Rabbi 
 of the Consistoire in Paris ; and six houses, built by Baron 
 Willi elm de Rothschild, in memory of his daughter Sarah. 
 
 " Between the houses No. 34 and 35, a large gate is now 
 being built, which will be named after the Emperor of 
 Austria, ' Franz Joseph's Gate, ' " His Imperial Majesty 
 having laid the foundation stone during his stay in Jerusa- 
 lem. Of six houses which are now being built, some will 
 bear the name of " Beth Yaacob," in memory of the late 
 Rev. Jacob J. Ettlinger, Chief Rabbi of Altona. 
 
 " During the first ten years, the Bate Makhseh were under 
 the protection of the Austrian Consul, subsequently they 
 were placed under the sole surveillance of the Local Com- 
 mittee, consisting now of three gentlemen ; Messrs. I. H. 
 Marcus, Meyer Schonbaum, and J. M. Goldschmid. 
 
 " Whenever the time approaches to elect ten new inmates, 
 the Local Committee gives notice to the Representatives of 
 all congregations, requesting them, in the name of the 
 Central Committee, to select ten deserving poor families to 
 whom the vacant houses are then allotted.* 
 
 " I entered into the houses of Messrs. Scheyer, Coronel 
 Hausdorf, and several other houses, and found them all very 
 clean and comfortable. I also visited the Pilg rims ' room, 
 which I was told was now occupied by a gentleman recently 
 arrived, and was then conducted to the roof of Mr. 
 * See Appendix, Lit. D.
 
 181 
 
 Scheyer's house, whence I had a fine view of all the sur- 
 rounding hills. 
 
 * On leaving the houses I was taken to the spot where a 
 number of labourers are now employed to clear away the 
 rubbish, and many of our Brethren were pointed out to me 
 among them. I also noticed the beautiful cisterns which, 
 on account of their large size, must be most valuable to the 
 inmates of the Hospice. 
 
 " After taking leave of the Committee, who accompanied 
 me on all my visits, I entered the houses belonging to the 
 Batd Makhseh, or Hospice of the Sephardiim congregation. 
 I met there, in the Yesheeba, the Rev. Raphael Fanidjil, 
 the Rev. Moses ben Viniste, and several other Hahamim ; 
 they kindly conducted me all over the place. I visited a 
 school adjoining the Yesheeba, but being rather late in the 
 day I could not examine the children. 
 
 " I then entered several rooms, and noticed a house bearing 
 outside an inscription to indicate that Baron Wilhelm de 
 Rothschild was the founder of it ; on asking permission to 
 enter, which was cheerfully accorded to me, I received a 
 hearty welcome from Mr. Eliezer Zahal, the Shamas of the 
 Portuguese Congregation, whom I was in the habit of 
 seeing every day in our little Synagogue. The room was 
 furnished entirely a l'Orient, without chairs or tables, straw 
 mattings being laid out in every direction, all nice and 
 clean. The gentlemen with me expressed fervent hopes 
 soon to be enabled, by the contribution of friends, to 
 build other houses, which, they said, were so much required 
 for the accommodation of the poor." 
 
 Thursday (12th Aug.). By the mercy of God, I felt 
 somewhat stronger to-day, and I sent word to the Re- 
 presentatives of the Volhynian Khassidim Congregation'
 
 132 
 
 who kindly had invited me immediately after my arrival 
 to visit their Synagogue, that it was my intention to 
 attend there at the Minkha prayers. I was anxious to pay 
 my respects to his Excellency the Governor; but, on en- 
 quiry, I have been informed that he had not yet returned 
 from Gaza. This was a great disappointment to me, as it 
 would have afforded me the opportunity of not only testi- 
 fying the high regard I entertained towards him, as the 
 faithful Representative of the Turkish Government, but also 
 as a man endowed with a noble heart and distinguished 
 qualities. My excellent friend, Mr. Consul Moore, to whom 
 I next desired to pay my respects, was also absent ; but I 
 nevertheless proceeded to his house to express to his amiable 
 consort, Mrs. Moore, the high esteem I entertain for her 
 excellent husband, and how much I feel myself indebted to 
 him for the kind attention paid to my requirements during 
 my stay in Jerusalem, in compliance with the instructions 
 he received to that effect from Her Majesty's Government, 
 as well as from his pure motives of friendship which he had 
 evinced towards me on so many occasions. 
 
 I had to be carried in a sedan-chair up rather a high flight 
 of stairs to reach the Consul's house, but on my arrival 
 there I found myself too weak to step out ; Mrs. Moore, 
 however, most kindly came to me, and I had the satis- 
 faction of paying through her my tribute of respect to the 
 Consul. 
 
 I then proceeded to the Synagogue, and was there most 
 agreeably surprised with the magnificent appearance of 
 that noble edifice. Its style of architecture is somewhat 
 similar to that of the German Synagogue, " Beth Yaacob." 
 It is 100 feet high from the floor to the cupola; contains a 
 number of Communal offices, a College for the study of the
 
 133 
 
 Holy Law; and in an adjoining building also a Public Bath. 
 I was received on entering the Synagogue by the Repre- 
 sentatives of the Congregation, and their President, Mr. 
 Nissan Bak ; and met there my esteemed friends, the Rev. 
 the Haham Bashi, the Rev. Meyer Auerbach, and the Rev. 
 Samuel Salant. 
 
 The Synagogue was brilliantly illuminated, presenting a 
 most pleasing sight of the circular gallery under the cupola 
 occupied by a number of Ladies in their best holiday attire ; 
 and a crowded Community of devout Brethren in every 
 part of the building. Hymns and Psalms, the former spe- 
 cially composed for the occasion, were beautifully recited ; 
 and the Rev. Elia Sarahson delivered an excellent discourse. 
 
 Prayers were then offered up for the Turkish, English, and 
 Austrian Sovereigns ; for the Spiritual heads of the Con- 
 gregations in London and Jerusalem ; for the speedy resto- 
 ration to health of the Baroness Meyer de Rothschild and 
 Sir Anthony de Rothschild, and an " El-Mald-Rakhamim" 
 in memory of my lamented wife. 
 
 I was told that the whole of the noble edifice had been 
 built by the hands of Jews ; every kind of work, it was fur- 
 ther observed, that of a carpenter or a blacksmith, a 
 glazier or an embroiderer, a goldsmith or an engraver, all 
 had been done by the Jews in Jerusalem. I noticed some 
 beautiful silver ornaments for the Sepharim, specially a large 
 massive silver crown, and when I enquired where it had 
 been made, the man himself who had done the work was 
 introduced to me. The Synagogue was full in every corner 
 but owing to the proper arrangements no inconvenience had 
 been felt. On leaving the Synagogue we entered a small 
 room, where refreshments were handed round, and we drank 
 to the prosperity of Jerusalem.
 
 134 
 
 I now gave instructions to take me to the Bate' Makhseh of 
 the Sephardiim and German Congregations, but, when half 
 way to the spot, I was obliged to return, feeling very much 
 the fatigues occasioned by the exertions of the day. 
 
 Friday (13th August) I proceeded to the Western Wall 
 Oi^ft 7n*D) to offer up the customary prayers. The road 
 leading to that hallowed spot, and the houses in its vicinity, 
 are still in a state of ruin, causing man and horse to stumble 
 over detached fragments of ancient structures, and remind 
 the pilgrim that a great deal of work has yet to be done 
 before the paths of Zion will be even and smooth. When I 
 visited Jerusalem, in the year 1866, I exerted myself very 
 much to have an awning made in front of the Western Wall. 
 I had already made an agreement for the execution of the 
 work, but unexpectedly some obstacle occurred, which could 
 not be surmounted, and the matter dropped. A gentleman 
 recently tried to place there some seats for the accommoda- 
 tion of the numerous visitors arriving daily at that spot, and 
 not succeeding in his endeavours, he asked permission to 
 have at least a number of large square marble stones placed 
 there, and was allowed to do so. But they did not remain 
 long in the place assigned to them ; first one stone was re- 
 moved, then another, until at last all of them disappeared. 
 
 We did not forget our dear relatives and absent friends 
 whilst standing before that remnant of our former great and 
 holy Temple. Prayers were offered up at our request for all 
 of them, specially for the speedy restoration to health of the 
 Baroness Meyer de Rothschild and Sir Anthony de Roth- 
 schild, and we hope they may all have been favourably 
 received. 
 
 The Haham Bashi having requested me to receive a special 
 deputation, I appointed the afternoon for an interview,
 
 135 
 
 though I felt greatly the fatigue from this morning's exer- 
 tions, and was obliged to retire to my chamber. About two 
 o'clock p.m., Haham Shalom Moshe Khay Gagin, Principal of 
 the Yesheebat Toledoth Yitzkhak, and Signor Yitzkhak 
 Kalamaro, the Treasurer of the Synagogue " Bethel," 
 entered. They communicated to me their intentions of 
 securing land for the building of 80 houses, a Synagogue, 
 Beth Hamidrash, and a Public Bath. They had already, 
 they said, decided to purchase for that purpose a plot of 
 ground near the City wall, measuring 26,000 builders' yards, 
 at the price of 900 Napoleons, towards which amount the 
 Gurgistan Congregation was ready to contribute 650 Napo- 
 leons ; but unfortunately the expenses necessary for the 
 purpose of securing the purchase by a proper contract, 
 proved to be so great that they had to relinquish it. 
 
 The deputation made to me certain proposals on that 
 subject, which I promised them to take into consideration. 
 
 They also communed with me on matters referring to the 
 Kerem Moshe' ve-Yehoodit, and I gave them full instructions 
 how to act, so as to secure the object in view. 
 
 Sabbath Nakhamoo(14th August) : many friends honoured 
 me during the day with their visits ; Kepresentatives of col- 
 leges and charitable institutions came to see me, and I 
 listened to many interesting observations they made in 
 reference to the comforts vouchsafed unto Zion by the 
 Haphtara of the Sabbath. Towards the evening I saw Mr. 
 Kriiger, a gentleman I knew when he was in office at the 
 Greek Consulate in Jerusalem, Dr. Schwarz, Dr. Puffeles 
 and some gentlemen from Hebron. 
 
 Sunday (15th August) : I made to-day the final aiTange- 
 ments regai-dimr the allotment of the four new houses in the
 
 136 
 
 Kereni Moshe' ve-Yehoodit, and communicated the necessary 
 particulars thereof to Her Majesty's Consul. I also took 
 steps for securing unto them and unto others those advan- 
 tages which it was the intention the poor should, in some 
 measure, derive from the Windmill. Towards the evening I 
 received a visit from a Sheikh of the Haram, who brought 
 me some flasks for oil-lamps, as a souvenir from the Haram. 
 On his leaving, a gentleman of the name of Joseph 
 Masood, from Sana, in Arabia Felix, was announced. 
 From the credentials he produced it appeared that he 
 had been sent by the Hebrew Community of Sana to 
 Mr. Jachya Mizrakhi, in Alexandria, to induce the latter 
 to appeal on their behalf to their Brethren in the 
 Turkish dominions, that the Jews in Arabia Felix might 
 now, as they are all under the benign sway of His Imperial 
 Majesty the Sultan, receive the same protection which all his 
 v other subjects have. Among the numerous signatures which 
 were affixed to the document there was one which excited 
 much curiosity, as no one could read the characters. On 
 being submitted to Dr. Loewe, he pronounced them to 
 be Sabasan or Hiniyaritic : characters, he observed, 
 probably used by Bilkis, the Queen of Sheba who visited 
 King Solomon in Jerusalem ; and read the letters 
 
 SQinvinfwffl ijjff^ - Haim Ben Yakl ^ a 
 
 Hhabashoosh (the Abyssinian) — a gentleman who, he said, 
 might have been at Sana to search after Hiniyaritic inscrip- 
 tions ; as the name is introduced with the words " ^ni^ftn 
 KSTK Wfl ppDI *2TJS T\W" 
 
 Mr. Masood will, I have every reason to believe, be suc- 
 cessful in his mission as soon as proper representations can 
 be made to the Turkish Government. 
 
 Towards the evening I had the pleasure of receiving a 
 letter from my esteemed friend, the Rev. the Hah&m Bashi,
 
 137 
 
 recommending to my special attention a Haliam who is about 
 proceeding by the same steamer I might happen to sail in, to 
 Algiers and the Barbary States ; that gentleman being com- 
 missioned by the Sephardiim Congregation to receive contri- 
 butions towards the funds raised for the support of the 
 poor. 
 
 Of these contributions, I was subsequently informed by 
 the Rev. Meyer Auerbach and the Rev. Samuel Salant, the 
 poor belonging to the German Congregations in the Holy 
 Land receive no share whatever. I mention this fact for the 
 purpose of correcting certain statements which have recently 
 been made elsewhere in reference to this subject. 
 
 Monday (August 16th) : fresh reports regarding the spread 
 of the cholera reached us again, and there was no longer any 
 doubt that we should have to perform a quarantine ; but 
 there was great uncertaint}?- whether any steamer would 
 touch JafTa to take us on board. I telegraphed to Beyrout to 
 ascertain the •correct information, but it appeared that the 
 officer of the Bureau himself was obliged for safety to escape 
 from the place of clanger, and I had no reply. 
 
 In the meanwhile I gave the order for our departure, but 
 would not fix the day or hour, to avoid unnecessary incon- 
 venience to my friends, who, I knew, would be anxious to 
 accompany me some distance out of the City. 
 
 Tuesday (17th August) : I have been engaged the whole 
 day in receiving deputations and visitors ; our esteemed 
 friends, the Rev. the Haham Bashi and the Rev. Moses ben 
 Viniste, representing the Sephardiim Synagogue, accom- 
 panied by the Secretary, Haham Abraham Penso ; the Rev- 
 Meyer Auerbach and Mr. Baruch Brill, of the Beth Yaacob
 
 138 
 
 Synagogue, accompanied by Mr. Joseph Rivlin, the Secretary 
 of the Perooshim Congregation; the Rev. Haham Elyashar 
 and all the members of the Yesheeba " Beth Guedalla " ; 
 Messrs. Mordechai Joffe and Fischel Lapin, Representatives 
 of the German Soup kitchen ; Haham Raphael Trabloos and 
 R. Samuel Meyookhas, Representatives of the Portuguese or 
 Sephardiim Soup kitchen, who told us that they distributed 
 once a week, for Sabbath, bread, meat, and rice among 400 
 poor of their Community. Speaking on the subject of 
 benevolent institutions among the Sephardiim, some of my 
 friends told me that they have two institutions, one called 
 " Khebrat Khatanim," D^HPI m^n, to assist a young man 
 when about to marry ; and the other, Hakhnasat Kallah, 
 
 PPD hMDH, to afford assistance to young women on their 
 marriage. They have also nine " Khebrot," nVQfi, to render 
 the necessary help to poor in days of sickness and sorrow ; 
 among these the Khebrat Shdbet Akhim, D^HN* mfc? miPJ, 
 under the direction of Haham Joseph Usiel, and the Khebrat 
 
 Maskil el dal, Si Stf ^E>£ T\12n, under the direction of 
 R. Simon Salmoona, number each of them 120 members. 
 
 When those gentlemen had left me, I received visits from 
 Messrs. Shelomo Salman Levi and Abraham Rabensohn, of 
 the Batd Kholim Committee ; Dr. Schwarz, Dr. Puffeles, Dr. 
 Sandreczki, Mr. Israel Dob Frumkin, the Editor of the 
 Khabazelet, and Mr. Michel Colin, the Editor of the Har el - 
 
 t 
 
 I was much pleased in making the acquaintance of two 
 Editors of two different periodicals, believing that the exist- 
 ence of two papers in one Community, specially in one like 
 that of Jerusalem, must always tend to serve the interests 
 of parties who, in their views regarding the communal wel- 
 fare, widely differ one from the other.
 
 139 
 
 I then had the pleasure of seeing the excellent Rabbi 
 Yitzkhak Prager, the Principal of the " Doresh Zion " Insti- 
 tution, and the four teachers — Messrs. Joseph Haim, Judah 
 Fanidjil, Yom Tob Manasseh, and Zebulun Leon, of whose 
 pupils I had received so favourable a report. 
 
 Being desirous to learn the amount my Brethren, the 
 Sephardiim, pay their teachers in their Talmud Tora School, 
 a gentleman present kindly gave me the following par- 
 ticulars : — 
 
 Haham Baruch Pinto, Head Master, having 10 pupils in 
 his class, teaching the Talmud and the Codes of Law, receives 
 40 francs a month. 
 
 Haham Shelomo Joseph, with 8 pupils, teaching the same 
 subjects, 20 francs per month Morenu Nino, with 7 pupils, 
 20 francs per month ; R. Yitzkhak Molko, with 8 pupils, 20 
 francs. 
 
 Masters teaching the elementary subjects, such as Alpha- 
 bets, Reading, Prayers and Parasha, receive salaries as 
 
 follows : — 
 
 per month. 
 
 Signor Mercado Fresco, 30 pupils . . . 35 francs. 
 Moshe Baruch, 25 „ . . . 30 „ 
 David Cohen, Resh Dubna, and Shelomo 
 
 Bekha 50 » 
 
 Eliahu Taragan, 28 pupils . . . 30 „ 
 David Pisante, 24 „ . . . 28 „ 
 
 „ HaimBurla, 22 „ . . • 24 „ 
 
 Presido Hamoui, teaching the Hebrew Bible in a class 
 
 of 14 pupils, 30 francs. 
 Moses Elkanati, teaching elementary subjects in a 
 
 class of 26 pupils, 30 francs.
 
 140 
 
 Signor Eliahu Cohen, teaching elementary subjects, Hebrew 
 Bible, Rashi, and Eyn Yaacob, in a class of 40 
 pupils, receives 40 francs per month. 
 Total number of pupils, 326. 
 
 The names of the Hahamim Eliahu Gachrim and Raphael 
 Mehudar were now announced ; they are the teachers in 
 the Simon Edlen von Lamel's Stiftung ; the names of the 
 Rev. Jacob Nehemiah Kahanow, the President of the Etz 
 Khayim College, and Mr. Salman Khayim Rivlin, one of 
 the Inspectors of Talmud Tora, were also given. I had 
 much pleasure in conversing with all of them, and listened 
 with due attention to all their communications. When 
 these gentlemen had left, Mesdames Rachel Rassyeh and 
 Bella Janiwe, Sarah Press, M. Pesse, all Directresses of Girls' 
 Schools, entered the room to give me some more particulars 
 about their pupils. I expressed to them the great pleasure 
 I experienced from their efficient method of instruction, 
 the best proof of which I considered to be, the satisfactory 
 result of the examination I had witnessed. Haham Joseph 
 Sano, teacher of the Morocco Schools, next came to thank 
 me for having sent Dr. Loewe to examine his pupils. I 
 cheered them all up with the pleasing hope that their 
 pupils will see the prosperity of Jerusalem by the practice 
 of those lessons in religion which they so conscientiously 
 impart to them. 
 
 The sons of Mr. Nissan Bak, who entreated me a few 
 days previously in a letter to enable them to complete the 
 efficiency of their printing establishment, requested to have 
 an interview concerning that subject; and I promised to 
 comply with their petition, as I was the first who in- 
 troduced a Printing-press in Jerusalem ; having presented 
 one, which is still in their possession, and in good working- 
 order, to their grandfather.
 
 141 
 
 My next visitors were some Hebrew poets and gentlemen 
 who presented me with books and specimens of Hebrew 
 Caligraphy: — Messrs. Benjamin Wolf Sapir, Haim Elia 
 Kahana, Israel Simeon Schein, Joseph Trachtenberg, and 
 Messrs. Salman Mendelwitz, and Aaron Moses Baugarten, 
 But the day, I saw, would soon be over, and I was still 
 anxious to see all the inmates of the "Mishkenot Shaananim" 
 and several other gentlemen with whom I had previously 
 made an appointment. With great exertions, however, I 
 was enabled to accomplish the work, and had the pleasure of 
 hearing every one of them expressing, in glowing terms, 
 the deep gratitude they feel for the privilege they enjoy 
 of being permitted to live in most comfortable houses 
 erected by the noble purpose and munificent gift of the late 
 Juda Touro, Esquire. " Surely," they all exclaimed, " the 
 memory of the just is blessed." 
 
 After Minkha prayers I continued to see several parties, 
 and about nine o'clock in the evening I sent for the Sopher, 
 Mr. Chaslawitzer, and ordered him to write a Se'phe'r Tora in 
 my name. He immediately brought a sheet of parchment, 
 and I commenced the Se'phe'r by writing the first word — 
 " Bereshit." 
 
 Reflecting on the mercy of God, that on the day I left 
 London for Jerusalem I was permitted to complete a Se'phe'r, 
 and on the day I was about leaving Jerusalem for London, 
 I had the health and strength to commence a Se'phe'r ; I 
 prayed that the blessing HHX *fPQ1 *]«m HHX *]T\1, 
 "1PW2 might further be vouchsafed unto me. 
 
 I made arrangements to start the following day for Ram- 
 lah at an early hour, but gave orders not to make known 
 my intentions to any of our friends and acquaintances. We 
 had the same carriages which took us to Jerusalem, and 
 the next day, Wednesday, 8th August, between four and five 
 o'clock in the morning, I was on the road to Jaffa ; my
 
 142 
 
 esteemed friend, the Rev. Samuel Salant, and a few more 
 still managed to see me, so I bid him and those with him a 
 sincere good bye. Dr. Loewe, whom I requested to arrange 
 for me some matters of a congregational nature, entered, in 
 company with Mr. Aikin, into one of the houses outside 
 the City, where he met the gentlemen I named to him, and, 
 in about half an hour, they both followed us on horseback 
 Not far from Colonia Mr. Valero came to bid me adieu, and 
 
 I sincerely reciprocated all his good wishes. 
 
 I found the road much better : it appeared to me as if 
 most of the impeding stones had been cleared away. We 
 continued our journey till mid-day, when we had a halt of 
 two hours at Bab-el- Wad, so as to avoid the overpower- 
 ing heat of the day ; started again about two o'clock 
 and arrived at Ramlah at six. We entered the house 
 belonging to the Wurtemberg Company to pass there 
 the night. Early in the morning I requested Dr. Loewe 
 and Mr. Aikin to start on horseback for Jaffa, so as to ascer- 
 tain whether and when we should be able to embark, and, by 
 
 II o'clock, I was near the Mikweh Israel. Mr. Schamasch 
 came to welcome me, and invited me to enter his house ; I 
 complied with his wish, and was much pleased with my visit 
 to the institution. Being anxious to reach Jaffa, I sent for Dr. 
 Loewe, who had already arrived there an hour before with 
 Mr. Aikin, to remain with Mr. Schamasch for some time to 
 inspect and examine all objects of interest, and then report to 
 me. Dr. Loewe soon arrived, and I proceeded to Jaffa. 
 
 We entered again the house of the English Vice-Consul, 
 our former host, and had the happiness of finding him and 
 his family in full enjoyment of health. Most anxiously 
 were we now awaiting the good tidings respecting the 
 entering into harbour of the French steamer, and I felt 
 myself indeed in a most uncomfortable state when thinking 
 of the possibility of being detained.
 
 143 
 
 In the meanwhile the Jaffa Community sent me the 
 Statistical accounts, which had been returned to the Secre- 
 tary on account of inaccuracy, before I had left for 
 Jerusalem, and several other gentlemen came ; and I had to 
 send for Dr. Loewe, who had now been for nearly three 
 hours in the Mikweh Israel, to examine the papers and 
 documents just handed to me. 
 
 On his return he reported that he had been dining with 
 all the boys, and found opportunities to converse with 
 them. There were, he thought, ten or twelve belonging to 
 German congregations, as he spoke to them in their verna- 
 cular idiom. " The boys, I noticed, all looked well, and 
 appeared to like their work. Mr. Schamasch took me to 
 the dormitories, schoolroom, kitchen, and other adjoining 
 offices. He gave me all particulars respecting the annual 
 expenditure and income, and pointed out to me the planta- 
 tion of trees imported from France. He also showed me the 
 plan of a beautiful fountain which is now being built at the 
 entrance to the estate. It will bear a suitable Hebrew 
 inscription, and will, .when completed, afford shelter and 
 refreshing drink to the pilgrim." 
 
 I was pleased with Dr. Loewe's report, and with what I 
 myself saw. It appeared to me evident, that in order to 
 make the work of agriculture productive of a good return, 
 it was absolutely necessary to have the command of con- 
 siderable capital. 
 
 Having ascertained that the Jaffa Statistical accounts 
 were now satisfactorily arranged, I sent for Mr. Jacob ibn 
 Simool, to confer with him on subjects connected with Con- 
 gregational interests. The evening we spent pleasantly 
 with the amiable family of our host, but I felt too fatigued 
 to stop with them long. 
 
 Friday (20th August). I received this morning an early
 
 144 
 
 visit from Aboo Goo.sh, in whose house I, in the year 18G6, 
 passed a night, on which occasion he showed me and my 
 friends then with me much attention. Whilst with him in 
 conversation, a messenger came with the good tidings that 
 the French steamer "Le Tage" had arrived. I immediately 
 gave orders for our departure. The driver of my carriage 
 having promised to take me all the way to the harbour, I 
 had no occasion for a sedan-chair, which saved me a great 
 deal of unnecessary fatigue. 
 
 I then took leave of our esteemed hostess and family ; 
 Mr. Amzalag kindly accompanied me to see me embark. 
 
 On my arrival at the place of embarkation, I was agree- 
 ably surprised by the presence of the Governor, the Kadi, 
 the Yuz Bashi, and a number of soldiers presenting arms. The 
 Governor said, " We came to give you our heart-felt wishes 
 for a prosperous voyage, and safe arrival in England." I 
 expressed my thanks to His Excellency and the Judge 
 most cordially, and then bid farewell to Mr. Amzalag and 
 several other friends. Once more I said, " Farewell, Holy 
 Land, farewell," and the sturdy sailors lifted me into the 
 boat. 
 
 The ship was a good distance from the shore, and the 
 boat we were in had to be towed by another to which it 
 was attached by a strong rope. We were now regarded as 
 being in quarantine, and there were the guardians in the 
 other boat watching that no personal communication be 
 effected between our boat and the ship. It was rather a 
 difficult passage amongst the rocks, and had the rope 
 broken we should have been exposed to great danger. By 
 the blessing of God, however, we safely approached the 
 steamer, ascended the steps, and received a cordial welcome 
 from the Commandant and the other officers on board.
 
 145 
 
 On Sabbath we again saw Port Said. Sunday and Monday 
 we were in the quarantine harbour at Aboukir, and the 
 following Sabbath we found ourselves in the harbour of 
 Naples. Monday, the 30th of August, we landed at Firoul ; 
 there we remained five days in quarantine. Saturday 
 morning, at half-past six, we entered the harbour of Mar- 
 seilles, but did not land till half-past seven in the evening, 
 when we proceeded at once to the Synagogue, and thence 
 to the railway, which took us to Paris. Wednesday, the 
 8th of September, we left that city, arriving the same day 
 at Dover. There again I repaired to the House of God, to 
 offer thanks for His boundless mercy to me, and Thursday 
 the 9th of September, I had the happiness of entering my 
 own Synagogue, at Ramsgate, after an absence of three 
 months. 
 
 In concluding this Narrative I feel it my pleasing 
 duty to inform all the friends of Zion, that I again have 
 had every opportunity to convince myself of the correct- 
 ness of those statements which had been made in the 
 " Replies " I received to my enquiries on the loth of 
 October, " 5634." * The great regard which I always 
 entertained towards our Brethren in the Holy Land has 
 now become, if possible, doubly increased, so that if you 
 were to ask me, " Are they worthy and deserving of assist- 
 ance ?" I would reply " Most decidedly." " Are they willing 
 and capable of work ?" " Undoubtedly." " Are their mental 
 powers of a satisfactory nature ? " Certainly." " Ought we as 
 Israelites, in particular, to render them support ? " " Learn," 
 
 * See " Translation of a Letter addressed by Sir Moses Montefiore 
 Bart., etc., to the Jewish Congregations in the Holy Land on the 
 Promotion of Agriculture and other Industrial Pursuits in that 
 Country, and of the B(j)lies received thereto,' 1 '' submitted by Sir Moses 
 Montefiore to the Palestine Committee of the above Board. Lon- 
 don, 1871. 
 
 K
 
 146 
 
 I would say, " if your own sacred Scriptures do not satisfy 
 you, from Non-Israelites, what degree of support those are 
 entitled to who consecrate their lives to the worship of 
 God. Go and cast a glance upon the numerous munificent 
 endowments ; upon the magnificent institutions ; upon the 
 annual contributions, not only in Jerusalem, but in every 
 part of the world; not only by individuals, but by almost 
 every mighty Ruler on earth. Notice the war which had 
 broken out within our recollection respecting a privilege 
 of repairing a house of devotion, all for the sole object to 
 support Religion, and are we Israelites to stand back and 
 say : ' We are all practical men ; let everybody in Jerusalem 
 go and work. We do not want a set of indolent people, 
 who, by poring over books, teaching the word of God, think 
 they are performing their duties in life, and wait for our 
 support.' The Jews in Jerusalem, in every part of the Holy 
 Land, I tell you, do work ; are more industrious even than 
 many men in Europe, otherwise none of them would 
 remain alive ; but, when the work does not sufficiently pay ; 
 when there is no market for the produce of the land ; when 
 famine, cholera, and other misfortunes befall the inhabitants, 
 we Israelites, unto whom God revealed himself on Sinai, 
 more than any other nation must step forward and render 
 them help — raise them from their state of distress." 
 
 If you put the question to me, saying thus : — " Now we 
 are willing to contribute towards a fund intended to render 
 them such assistance as they may require ; we are ready to 
 make even sacrifices ot our own means if necessary ; what 
 scheme do you propose as best adapted to carry out the 
 object in view ?" I Avould reply — " Carry out simply what 
 they themselves have suggested ; but begin, in the first 
 instance, with the building of houses in Jerusalem. 
 
 " Select land outside the city ; raise, in the form of a large
 
 147 
 
 square or crescent, a number of suitable houses, with Euro- 
 pean improvements; have in the centre of the square or 
 crescent a Synagogue, a College, and a Public Bath. Let 
 each house have in front a plot of ground large enough to 
 cultivate olive trees, the vine, and necessary vegetables, 
 so as to give the occupiers of the houses a taste for agri- 
 culture. 
 
 "The houses ought to pay a moderate rental, by the 
 amount of which, after securing the sum required for 
 the payment of a clerk and overseer, and the repair of the 
 houses, there should be established a Loan Society on safe 
 principles, for the benefit of the poor working-class, the 
 trader, the agriculturist, or any poor deserving man. Two 
 per cent, should be charged on each loan, so as to cover 
 thereby the expenses necessary for a special clerk, and the 
 rent of an appropriate house. 
 
 " If the amount of your funds be sufficient, build houses 
 in Safed, Tiberias and Hebron on the same plan ; establish, 
 by the rental also, Loan Societies on similar principles of 
 security. 
 
 "And should you further prosper, and have £30,000 or 
 £50,000 to dispose of, you will, without difficulty, be able 
 to purchase as much land as you would like in the vicinity 
 of Safed, Pekee-in, Tiberias, Hebron, Jerusalem, Jaffa, and 
 Khaifa, and you will find in all those places a number of 
 persons who would be most willing to follow agricultural pur- 
 suits. There are, according to the applications which have 
 been printed, more than 170 persons ready in Safed and 
 Tiberias alone ; Pekee-in and Khaifa also offer a good num- 
 ber, and there are, no doubt, persons, even in Jerusalem, 
 who are willing: to cultivate land."
 
 148 
 
 And if now you address me, saying, " Which would be the 
 proper time to commence the work, supposing we were 
 ready to be guided by your counsel ?" 
 
 My reply then would be, "Commence at once ; begin the 
 work this day, if you can. 
 
 " Our brethren throughout Europe, Persia, and Turkey, 
 have been roused by your promises, which have been made 
 known to them in the most hopeful terms, by Hebrew, 
 German, French, Italian, and English periodicals. You led 
 them to cherish the hope that you would surely make no 
 delay in proceeding to ameliorate the condition of the Sons 
 of Zion. They now cry out, ' Here we are, give us land, give 
 us work ; you promised to do so. We are willing, for the 
 sake of our love to Jerusalem, to undertake the execution of 
 the most laborious tasks ;' but the Representatives of the 
 Community have no answer to give : they simply, with a 
 cast-down countenance, say, in the words of King Solomon 
 I'N DBty nVtl DWJW ' Clouds and wind without rain.' 
 
 "You are then, I repeat, in sacred duty bound not to dis- 
 appoint them any longer. Begin the hallowed task at once, 
 and He who takes delight in Zion will establish the work 
 upon you." 
 
 s
 
 a 
 
 > ia niron ^ warn mn nro wiiib Main p 
 i'in pnys Dinnn by u«a ">*obi 
 
 bb"DD p"D }D^J 'pTl DH31 
 
 rnn 
 
 Qsnystp ornn« ONai 
 pbNYibb-QD dttyinsd 
 
 p^-i bbisD rnbnnn 
 
 in^n hty»b» nrobN dmi 
 ]2^^b«2 bb-nD 
 
 PDs^-od PiN-ia ntPD nasi 
 N3*TH"nn bbiisD 
 
 bbiDD tnisb ntijt raps' 1 dm 
 
 bVlSD DDp^ND T»«D DS31 
 NDb^ll 
 
 DIDST bblDD 
 
 bbi3D po^DD apy qnsi 
 
 pD^D 
 
 bbi^D •nbrpns pns> D«3i 
 pbsmD 
 
 on D^m )yr\*h y* uana 'Tin anaa *sai 
 
 rn DHnson nbripth 
 
 yyyn ' &" D ^WNa t»n& ba«n n^xn rrny wai 
 d v d *bd^i nsyft Tyxn » b'D *pa d^dj b**n 
 
 pnv Tnfi a-n rrny aa tti bbiaa r\w^r\ by 
 
 pjNb&> D"Tia *a* 
 
 on-iiN Tno rmy xa pxmx bbiaa no^enn byi
 
 LIT. D. 
 
 p"sb n'Vin n»n n"a dv v'n D^n*a p*s 'pn -im n 'rya 
 
 $ nbw rn D*"i*Drn 
 
 nDn&n *ro by cni-in 'nun ^tsnS nyia an jy* 
 ems* 1 ? onn nn 1 ? ny ns\ *to » vn pnc 'j5n inn 
 
 jd^hm nupnn *ry S"vnn 
 
 onnn ynnn D^n dJ? yninb d»m3 lan ry 
 nnnnG? » r \n Vinn new yto^Np bant^y* D^isn 
 tb^rb n"^n n"ty yyn n-}£>y *pyS Mtd Sr^ 
 «Ssr '3&*n iNi D*fcoxn nw ub n^bi 'Snuna 
 : Mron am n-u nyvb Dipa nxsr 
 
 nby&bn ova mb* .m£>y n?b |nu f&n p im 
 
 non& *nn paa pb*ap Sxps^ ♦n^trai »«ai Y^n 
 : vn dS^ts pnc 'pn nna D^yS 
 
 rrnbbT pusbE? n"ina anna i2n*n pnv pn ns:
 
 ! -i&jti warra yw na^n » nftinS pn dSpyt rfDJTl 
 )& nunS ,nmm rmoan Dn&y mn w9?in da 
 
 n^y? unmr\ rvo ^ ■ rb&b noun irn 
 
 > wSbm ♦jp? d^dkj in ib>k » nny \b n^Nn » 11 
 s dim Sn ti rrnny 1 ? cn^n fiuc? nn* wnpn new 
 nnft wt rmpi » nsfc Disy -jon Nin pnn wi 
 ♦W? wrunn c^s& unjK am iBrripn pn tpa 
 no innryS » p^nS nsS nby* ok » i^n wjhk 
 cd^ n&n / n n*n pnS iintsn in 1 ? nn-ti no^n 
 ^n*nn nja mnttta > m&yi ^nnS uS rw mnn 
 tm masai » cpn msn n^ *n » pin uw&n ♦ ti 
 rwn nnnn p*a *tjt ^6i /mm vSy pn* 'n 
 nto™ ' mSnj nnn 1 nn:n xra di-p ikdi > mpi 
 
 m n^v p otbtp 
 r»n "m -in ornnM *r»»sn 
 Trt Dma« p "m its 
 btd rri th p npm tosti 
 
 
 
 dwto 
 
 ta'D bwia^ nn ^tnn T»»sn 
 
 ra"D 
 
 © 
 
 ©
 
 h 
 
 ' rvmn nSsxm y&)r\n *#a nrvnt ntac^x ynw 
 > nmSaDa n^i i vnx •ay nx tot wihx jnwwi 
 * -nx pm Sotb* »» SnSi > jjrBn*i nt£>ft Q P^ 
 d^hj ' nroxi p* imi ' nrwi mix nrwi DmrvS 
 Sav n&ai i nsDD i&*j? vidpi i tbti whk *]*»pfi 
 dWiji ^pib* lis i D'Mwn i^ysf? mm nnS tr« 
 vwimpi w yitF\ > irniae>»i iSys 1S nhw > pin 
 Sa aab pnai » »*» i:wnx pna » tfi&Tftai aitaa 
 
 i px > i*?ia hxrw pi 
 
 n^x dw £>&na ma *a i tirox ppina nnyi 
 nxa pwn ihbfi 'Sxn&r *ib> miyai n nona 
 srx i bia^ pn nx^S » m* uwn&n pfew&an 
 -rya 13SDX31 imy 'ni peri* nB>xa m&i » wai 
 fll^a '2 ^doS anp » bxn^ja mjn Snp D'pSxn 
 iiaa |"OB^ uhyn > d*bhpi D*xa dv ban , t^aj 
 -lyan dSbw na^ni p*x nanx nn <a rjnpjD 
 ova i nib^n* ^iy uroxi » nanb e>xa oa^pa 
 wpm nvnn 1 ? trnpa "Dan hi * onbxn Tyb uxia 
 » nam dxi toya dx » irva uxaw ppn epa byaa 
 t \yv ntsa Dvna pi • h \r\: wk 71 nanaa b^« 
 n^x own an *sf? oyninnibxa xaiibn span *a 
 n^n npyiaa unaw » iS ^n tjSn • enpa ums 
 Saa ' pxa irai#* pnnrb nxvin ronx *a # p*x 
 i nurnin vrownnfa r\D:ian rva paab ! D^aennn wrix 
 ir^Sia *}a& D*an » nx? irw^ai i n"ty v r\ytsrb) 
 Sy i&sasi S"n mx ' dd^sd pTi« nanx nn ^^x 
 nnaa ixai • nSnj nnn« DnS nxah > cn^a nixxin
 
 LIT. C. 
 
 D«n iw i? 13DV1 y&> on* *a »a , n"ya 
 
 nib yi jvSyn nw » nmnm nni&n nip&a 
 • D^pinai d^id D w m ' nnviNi nxpia » nnS^m 
 t^iinn » bfcOP* kw ' ttnaa »Wfii * wny *:« p«"fc 
 oma&n i Vnj&i rtaina » hnn na> , i&yS nio 
 ntPO TD n '^ ' ™fei ^n *»p wijrwa 
 : anw i abiy pa* nn*3 / nSiyb !W tp ^IVS^IMID 
 
 vd errp Snp mbVo tiroa ! n^n mrw 
 priys nyn D'nanD&i a^a^D nj/3 *>^ NWU 
 D'rooi < mas nd:d bi& cnnnra wan » Tin ram* 
 mnn *aab wa man tisb>:i » niton w nx 
 D»pipn ^d lrsb lena* *6 vnon nm mi >)y 
 ne>&o / pnta wv umx » unJ? niS by uan 
 sks n ' lrnnbift nynfc? to % n« nSn n^n trpipn 
 /D^ny td u«n ninsb ub rrn jaw p*Bn»i »pnn 
 rh'hy anWyi » U'tow lrrynn n^« nav« njDDi 
 nnxb nana m^n wn'iK » nbwiJWTi nnyn^n , aiJl 
 ' wip ym ^n n&yn wjhni » bant?* nsr nx 
 nnj niy '• bb^ 1 ? wpm *nni » ijtotaa 'n nonni 
 / nnmoi n:ra pab nw / nnttn n&m^ » wby npn 
 w*w nbn;i nnsn » nwnb nnnya 'n ny wnrb 
 > y-\xn hwb n^vh , BHIjy *7 BHDjf ^^ » ns 
 y-iT ^si nyn^i » spa n^po nnyn ^nan my xw
 
 LIT. B. 
 
 m* T^an » jri^^n n?3B> ^"nS jnin 1 ? n^x *ninia 
 » vn jnarf? tidd in« isd i&uk»3 1133S men jnj 
 . nun* phni id '*d penrra i3«n pjgj lap ni 
 nxiin isd3 narisi n W33 i3wn n^¥ tf*m 
 m^k njniK Kinn Dip^n man » 37 n sp pun 
 n&x D*$niK3 -jiik nax a*y3iK Kin dVii hy\ • dSii 
 pjSx nwai Dysn in units' nai • py n£K3 » 3nn 
 cwpaa aiip SdS yrw nvn^i • D^pnita dxtS 
 nempn pa 3i£y*3 am**™ avsni » Wtp* raia 
 i^sk / wis rfeiK vrm < n*ni3in p33 ni37bi 
 nSy dxi » nma 11pm m C3na 13P bwn (39 
 n3 n*rk H3 ujrun 1 ? ip*n* > nniapb 3i3n 031x13 
 m* nra D3n 1* ^y nnsm Dnwn tfisw iy 1* 
 
 H313 D3 1 ? p*1* HP *?« HKT 13^31 > K"y* TC*fa V7\ 
 
 ♦ T*3 » akem* 31D3 niNiS in* 11301 ' '1 hi iy 
 
 f L.S. J to >2t3 prata ut^h "roan 
 
 rri in* 1 ?** 13*31 iiaan nixiS *n*3T annn uk D3 
 ji13tS p*ix jisi i^yn&y to *nntD3i > rbyth anmn 
 rn [iiinS 3iipi 313 Dipa Kin *3 • '^n i£pn pp3 
 cunw ion Sy D*&ys naa men » kt? ni3K n*ip 
 
 1DT31 » 13^ 1133 fp 131TJ**1 D31iy* 'HI » W3j? 13 
 
 ♦ vn dS^ii* |*i33 nvsiS
 
 lb 
 
 ny artt &"nn mhi n^H p" n ^ n buo wx 
 
 t ubvr\ 
 
 wu '•san jmn n&a -roan 
 
 a"o «p^«boa 
 
 iron nt3?bw saw n^sn 
 
 a"D -in: ?n:>n bs^in n^sn 
 a"D Hmrp p nmas -vssn 
 
 ra"D rnro'io bwnna T»ssn 
 
 Pour legalisation des signatures ci-dessus, et pour cer- 
 tification du contenu des presentes et ayant ete invite a 
 legaliser les ditos signatures nous avons laisse oes lignes 
 pour servir ce que de raison. 
 
 Caiffa, le 5 Ao£t, 1875. 
 
 L' Agent Vice- Consul 
 
 de France a, Acre et Caiffa, 
 
 J. TERMAIN. 
 
 Le Vice- Consul 
 
 des Pays-Bas a Caiffa 
 
 R. A. LEON. 
 
 
 

 
 chip ny\ <wh$ nman inrwn hnto \s$&& Djrsai 
 mbnj m&isni « a*ma3i Mia anmi ma* a^a naaa 
 imS rw *T\n p^y *Tn* ba ai^a h$& w 
 npaf? mmpa w nt^D w* '*? "^ ^ 
 
 * so^a ;S *n^ tri* uvyia |k^ lay miab n^erfci 
 iwn larra ps-ip uya&> pn »mbB> *in nbya 'sal 
 aian nubwi lyrbrp w« Sy ny-r jyab vr 
 *:aS rtn ny-na |«aa • nnata mina annaai 
 ubia ipp tik3 uSia n*^ »a nr lrwn may 
 1303 by n nam i ama b)pb uyam btik dton 
 n"3 i Trrs dw im»:j p«i » rnraw ti min -wa^S 
 iU3b6 Hi D^yni omns* iJ?w » n»*» diS^i 
 byi • ronw nanaa na^ann vmajn wnpn wmn 
 yap jnx yaD>b *3 w inbya on *p* bxc n^x 
 runaS won nya Wi wxa dwx . a*aa »a " 
 awn D^tfl mom nam ojnxn pn^Si lrnbnp 
 npb nn<b jtt rusnb " • nprx naipa a-iann 1 ? 
 
 wnv 1 ? foa cmwk ixi vb abiya ^ . in-wan 
 umx rrt>en » abiya ann vn xb ibx anmi 
 
 ♦ baxn *a 733 yw avo» anpa cra^pa uba 
 am*i roabx ox *3 nprwn p a^nana unx pm 
 » wjiaai iwao Dnb a*p»aaa rrb&y wok > Kpn pp 
 mpwi nbuns? otik npnac oab nvaix wry p«i 
 mx-ib nvibn -|b wry nnyn rom • rrcnn rvnpa 
 wynx wwaan ib>k3 « nr n^a 03 l&np 03 
 ns BHipn Sx n^^S N5nS pn ^niS^ Dy ^ban 
 Sy bw ntmpn irmm nian • N*n"nin ns^n pn^ 
 n*nn ti nxai n^n^ 1^31 w n paSyS N3^a vSy pa
 
 LIT. A. 
 
 vih n'Vinn n:v moron na 'i nv n"a 
 
 pm ^NiJn *]NSan nnnirn nSu masn n-i&y 
 ib^i nSya / WTiro umn / i3ii*i« bnj # Sni&j" S^ 
 /myitr iraxai mpw tpn »Sna» ny "noo »f?nin 
 v^jn * nix imae>* HVSPtMID Ht^D TD V ' D V ' D 
 :*rva I'M D^iyS nyS »nn pr 
 
 1JJHN JVBfO ^ Pp tt^faan d*w p*na 
 
 .pm Sjn S*o^ ^y sjain 'cfeiy p* mo 'D^yS 
 n&J? |w* Stnen i-ttit y^in wa^i xtm 
 
 »mnc nnm pnm^ »nrwa dv dvh 1:03 na 
 D M nn nixnxS u%o nnna 'ays nnr T«n *i&?k 
 , wnpn pa ppni nwS • lay nm&a nunS a'ain 
 uS n'lwn xh new W? m-nni wnnap hnx\ 
 Tan wnbuo *Tn< uroatt » y^inS m y^iai ^nu 
 ■oSa noir S« D«nn rnny ^nya D*Tnya uroa 
 new wyaiea rpni » D*a»n Sd -ran irro b*y\ 
 )rbm rnxsn pnxb nm tk nnran *ja tnh 
 *niB>m n»p»a a^3N *jb> unaa unSsj> ^nyS n*w 
 ib\>o w in 1 ?™ n-ixsn imhk ^ru n*npS Tyn 
 ♦ inSn^ N5D3 »:&S np* ni^yS irSy Sbia avnn
 
 APPENDIX.
 
 ntrifc hy Dayman » ymw -p?' 10 ' T 3 " 00 ' TW* 
 
 : npn piwa nix • pa 
 
 KT B^Kp P"P TON D*3ftte n&WTIN TNft 
 
 n'ain p"nyn p"p TON nya I 
 
 ttJN^D ^Nltt^ M - AUERBACH, 
 
 Eabbiner.
 
 &a 
 
 'pn Dy nNi • djh Sy lmSjn aits nan invd* *a 
 Dnafc? Mpineo onw • ya&>> oM>m -ion iaB>&* 
 
 i tarwp nS 
 
 iw pitto Sna &ya ppnn nw Danymn 
 chm* 'acyvS ^#a& ni^? kS i p« • nm maiaS 
 maifif? vn "nn DanaS DaS •a !*& <Dnw two 
 » »& p-un n^n pit wa b& i£W rrnia • py 
 rawa «** ny wpp* *& rmv xS p* j^d 1 ? nsj>x 
 tan Sa npn Sx xa 1 ? pa* xbi sp xS *a • np-a 
 oa*asa Diwipai ' Tjn Dann«n Dnx dj • nci • nam 
 iaxDn naxro uyn pao ^ai » bnxssnn tn ^y 
 !ayasp no Sy Da i pi* lann laSysSi > mgn im 
 < rswy minai » onan nax p " vibkw » Damaaa 
 d^3 Nie^b pxn pmnm ohm niaa S^nS oa^y *a 
 : na? rbo" 'ni * oaS wii aen '"nana 
 
 rta nun D^ys ntrx I I^H 1JJHN nriNl 
 rthan 71 pm » v^ya Sxn&r nanyn *snnD nsnn 
 wax nsrx nny dj » ^ay b^w \y Dnnb *]Ta 
 n^x i D*a' 7T1&6 f map? nyS DiSn ^an Dwaa> 
 pW?aa dx *a i nxi p« > ia9?s xS ns *p 3 roxn 
 rwaa ^xi jvx na maa ^xn 1 ? • iot y/ y mar 
 nnyi • praam minn tiaai > rvSy D'odibti rvnp* 
 rr»nfo nSnnnS') cnpf? x^ann nxa > WMm nwp 
 tons Sa !?y tvq nix panto *]naana nipnto 737a 
 ♦aaini p*c *arnx ^a lato f»tas^a pna na^ • ton^ 
 
 : ^n^» *6TID Sa
 
 ni&i 'Tjnn toa Wi «» n^n tqs Sx majmm 
 
 'D'niiDn D^aibDn nx Driven xS dx D»^iy Drrn 
 >onsDW Dnnxn o^DDon Dp dwx dji nnmm 
 xsrb lwrn » tramp *rta owia d*ksvd Dnxn dx 
 'T\w\y man ttfi -jssy y/ y CD:rnjn ♦a 1 ?] nSinn nx 
 j KWan 'JDDd ^in Dnw nGrx Dnvusa insm^rta 
 
 nrinn ^ »yy Danynn nma *a oaxS uS w 
 ♦idib6 nania n&&&>& nn nyhy nnjr o /Dn^o 
 yh)rb nni^n nSpkp ib>k st»ro > n *ro ntin 
 nx D^nion Dopini D^ip Dipa Sx rtbfhpf D:mx 
 man in* nttn 'PiSn wm V'n nmisn nj&wn 
 "n xS^ • Dro^nnn DpSx \h mdkj > vjdb>i iSr 
 nx pnn nai^D ^ rmA nyna mxi 1 ? d*tjj ddS 
 nw 1 ? Sx *nx nw nwVi nnWn n-nx t s:n 
 
 JD^JXI D*pSx 
 
 »JV3C ra niM b»s«pnS onn^n army-tira ram 
 *pSy w ^a ^ ' n&x # n *a » d:>*ti nnSy xSi 
 <yBnn ass^S *jnx oipn pe^ ^31 n^xv ^S 
 jtikd onp-nri y n nay rfcro nxr 
 
 vv&a* uS wyS* dw »Dan o »waa norm n»^a 
 e>:n nx D^nian nbx xshtsm yx »mn nscsa 
 onnn DTOsna tod inpb «Si ? DnnpD »DixSn 
 nrwpn«n nx cnnnxb n&yx ^n^npn fixn nx
 
 T3 
 
 n^n^D en iS nE>iy ♦syn dj '3 nya y-m xSn- 
 Sy n^ -mi »Sn rh*snni »^i» on '3 ,D^nn 
 Vim aru ^ 'nSn nn« Sy nSy< nS dix spa 
 
 to nvswift n^a '& n^n y^ i&>k pn" »T3 
 
 txjs ijynn '*e> n£>n ^ ,uyw >pn pjyn dj 
 ^iy nmtD ro&N t^x 1 ? nnp £ xxft ontm? Sy 
 nrani dns ^ nrrani "Tm **?3n nx3ni . ns 
 tvnnp inipj X mn pn >Mipnn dVd 
 
 nrx&i p"nx *3B>v i^nx ba> nSiysn mn3 " ra 
 [Kin nsizah] pin nnv [xins? nrr&i M?13 
 wby naini / nil moan n33 D*»yn S3£ 
 cnS dwiji wjsS rrane> Dnamw TjnS 
 nx x^mS Kin Dn&:& S3B> iron »DnMnaf? 
 11 : DnntyS X3* srx pn dx ynn oaxaa DDxy 
 
 onanno rfcrun miDnn nx main hi ^y 
 rrav ne» b^n hy\ • Dwnxn onnm 1 ? crompn 
 nrb '»n new • nyninn SSa Sy tois&r d^b^i 
 . onn dki ' nwina xxv vr n^rnn rt n x 1 ? dx 
 ijttDi /T133S cnS '»m /njiaiD nnxeo dx n\n 3iD 
 
 : GTX1 GTX 11133 yusta WT HX 
 
 i:»i insoi '"DnnTyS Drmron D^jyn n^xv *m 
 
 ••♦xsna ♦iDDD n"3
 
 D 
 
 njnwb Djmn 1 ? yrv nn& tin xh "D "id onmo 
 , xnn rvaa vn x 1 ? nx-oa oo^a nn Dii » mm 
 nnso ok> invwb' onain o*aa dk" Di&xa 
 oa DafynS rvan wk to *6 n&xai ^"DniDS 
 
 ,pp TJT1K D^ pp Tm *\1 1ST IKXtt HD »3 
 
 p Sy *ai rinn Kaih rw trmp nso nm vn 
 -xrw ix »itj ix Din pefei xS-y-nn man 
 naS ah /KniD^ND wtbw oyn nx vra dx »a 
 
 Non dvd ray» xS&> hxw •■una snaeb »m »a 
 Dnya D^top D*byw px ^yis man Dy nann-ro 
 *p i&s>n xi btw 'Dnson npy iva wx /Dhi-ik 
 DW-DTflaa Syi amno Sy D^vra naya on^ 
 nai i naa Sy maw *"ian w wj rrnna xS 
 wan oai » nSxa Sy npaf? Sx-^a -raS nxa 
 pn»i ipn niaa Wfc tarra ban » cnay la&aBi 
 iBfK » x^nn rvan p vsv rip 1 ly&S ttdsnm «v 
 d*bwk *yy TiySi ; '*& ijwi nx ro&nS pi ipihd* 
 
 ♦ la mvi ran Sy mpa *v iph w *a pirnb 
 
 :px Sa fc naw xS <a i-nb tot tnai 
 
 »fiwi TnaD-i nax^D naxS&a D'poiyn nSx" "ia 
 D*an uofii xS *a »otbp tnaa pi papne 
 anaa i^pa* dx 1 ! » d'bhh anaa wpaan 
 ":p^»nD dhix wa< nSxa 
 
 SyaS pwv n& i nxo iy niSnai raaton rwiwn 
 nia-^a spnf? ffjffi paw ffw oa 'a rprSn 
 
 ♦ Drra^o nrb tto i^m Trm p w xS » Drvnx
 
 m 
 
 srapn *£:> D^ipac pn / naixa D^apa d^xc dpo 
 / nnS nai d*m "pa dSd nm » S"ira anniana Drt? 
 menn »fta ex » ijfor pncrai xi pnera • tpon fen 
 % a pi i nxr ptc • njnaa pxn ^ap* p Dnnnna iS 
 pnn *sa iyaw nai » ysxa pflrnnn nm ^ 
 npiSnm • nm 1 ? nae> "inix . tt&an »raf?n pnaa 
 dx M^di 9td ^ nwtni xa wpna » B>aa SnS 
 nSiT / pax-£ wm? in owna nnv ^sA b* 
 onana *aa Mna ncx • paaiw rar^x nanaa 
 
 j pp SSidhi x*3nS 
 
 D^axnS sw rbm *wb\ nixS dJ? nvnV' to 
 na onS isdx » nxaS -tj; ^na ro nSxn 
 /DC wn ny *asp wm» nai *asS raw 
 •naaf? onsa npy nm no* owx nrx 
 DH^onn amx lap i»ai » nvswia wa ncn 
 vw amaxn anson *asa n^ xS i D-ra 
 ixvaac onn-tn d^d ax-aca mp\> ohw 
 by\ ansan Sa ax o-aniax ansa as? 
 bx iarw ayan » mn bx xt ncx trx 
 ansan ipy iron *pmK> » '*n ainn ncya 
 *a*ay bx anaanap ansa a*xxaa vn laian 
 ansam iran *iaaa nnjtt • anjn ^ naiaxn 
 a^x dip 1 ? px Sna Sayn nac ^axac 
 
 ": ana nxn 
 
 » xv* nSo nynnn hhi by nabb nm ansn aa 
 a^binb npinn *Sya <nSa ann ac ib>x xin *a 
 th\ a^aaipn xS^ ^xan xS *3 ' it? xS imrci
 
 na 
 
 • WbKJi nx Dnnw wn xh • -mom ni Sy dj 
 nv »a ^iixrirr nbyzb > oaxy nr Dnniop ^Sk 
 mana Sy rwn 1 ? my hs nrb yj&j asiin^ on 1 ? 
 Dwp lavi »mi sjuai i^nn d^dik nsi /'in 
 ♦«ai p*n na nain nwrfe jn ip i&a » awa 
 k>w f« »jni3 kSi 'Kit? nix^D r6 wn nny£> 
 dwk did wnB^ mar? 'Hiia* baic^ DE>a n^a 
 D^a dwd D^inn p »^ D"ps noafa 'D**p3 
 ny oipan ny aann ^nx nns D^aix ny Dnwa 
 nW? *a Dnoi« nam oau »b Sy loaa^ iprrr 
 
 my ni*n >*b '"ia [nana wae> DTpfeprr # aa 
 D":yn ^aa inv niVra nam » d^vtji d m # vn 
 
 "t'pn pto* 
 
 / spnsn n&rirta omaro ony*T an lann ma di 
 / "jifi^nn Sk nny^n Sx yiSp 1 ? DnS may Dtt&ani 
 jdits piw ixSa jnan wk onia m n&yx 
 
 .nip^nn ry p^ 1 ? ian«n ns nvnn nra" na 
 "tioai /Dn^y uWa wpwi we n^a nan 
 » nman o^ap&n taai • Disnm tfpbnan 
 caniya itrtra >wm wa^n epari nsD&ai 
 ":tnn DTa iSyni nann ^nSa iMtx nbsKa 
 
 <a > DpSn n^« i D^yani D^nym nip-ran % aniai 
 » 'Pi 1 ? en D^ana » 'pn p«a nrvriK na*ar oyina on 
 / nn&i y?ia S:>a na tfpbni&n onpni D*3ann D^a&m 
 
 p* » DPiiby 'n w » rnntoai nn&Ka nnaaSD D*eny
 
 Jia 
 
 n niton ra;iBOi nSnj n^a ny n»x inn ymnS on^y 
 nSnna naaSWii w^x rono ♦aan ^rn no* new 
 Rami » nwiw Ran nat? pabaw » nVin rot? 
 ♦aw y/ anx Sa ^ D w #n D^Sinn <naS Dan ^n 
 D^ann* ♦aw an ^n nyM i tn ♦to new > rbvm* 
 nim spa p« nan na>« pw^an xsna annnS 
 nam ,DmE>a *\sxb\ rbhrb nnm *htir\vrh Waa 
 aS a^nW? D^ip nsi&ya bnrfa pnaa aripk DirSy 
 naaw ♦Svw mna Rinnan ajcyn pann S« Dyn 
 » innan naa an ♦a » ann ohm rva maaS rn 
 na>« rvan jnsjb Sy *pnna D^inn San nx N*anS 
 en Tpi ' p^Sa p« nsD ixS& rronSie> Sa d&j> 
 Da rvaa>»nS uhop\ > Rinn ^xnn nyin ♦*!♦ tfana 
 dv Da dk na>x »DM3 nr Dn& nyaia>n nai&n 
 D"ay whr\ D^an npyx nSiy onaxSaa naa> nnx 
 
 : n»in '«npn Sipi nawn 
 
 spa pa*D iht »o nnsry nSin SaD D^piS^ nai 
 njna^ iS n? rb)m ♦ayni » jvan niacin Sa SaSaS 
 Disa ininan vipan iSn^i Ran&i maia x^^sr nSna 
 ♦a Sy D^nn d^S nyninn 'SyaS rrro » ma nyvto 
 law my ♦& Sax • ma msia rva SnaS spa p« 
 
 : dnaiia Sa mr\ 
 
 tfin eswnn an na^Di /"ia D^inn nana" *aa 
 
 >nSnj& n-y San^* rvaS xsinn anpa nS ♦a 
 
 D&xy nx D**mpn D^aym » ♦aiyn ry dk ♦a 
 
 niayS pi D^inn rvaS ooSin oy« o^n 
 
 "tDV D3DT
 
 13 
 
 jvSj pan -isd dp '»n aSta 'ys^n nSin 1 ? 
 nb& mb natyn pWn by roia *pn ppSi 
 yninS m« dip dp nxim xb * nSinn 
 > D«n*jb« DHirrS D^in ira uy« n^nnp 
 ro9? Wip* nVinn by Dnow dSpit ?ban 
 
 11D*M *\rb *S D*IDP D?K WP1M pX 'DP 
 
 " : "ID 
 
 dp uNXfii /D»Sin iipa irn m wkv 
 dip *n nS dp wmp nyni » hido raw 
 i uyop ry DyDm i jrvby mip nbin 
 dp oaain nVin ^ na d^hd D*n\jp»np 
 (2/6) nytoDx^s npy nPDn yinp ban dSpS 
 S^iano nniyn ana a*an nVinn dn dSin 
 
 DTOMDfl P5J nSDaJ ♦pjDlWnD «in "I1D3 
 
 ^a D^inn dp idwp tshm n*a nuaS 
 xsnn i nittb D^yaiN dp trajpi M?a poiWi 
 nyS D*nyn D^inn rvaS *fr D^in tipa ^p 
 
 i*np Dvaa Drmna rxnS ippa D^inn tq na 
 jrm Na*i » DPin ova *vj/? wan p^ai / dhin 
 q*ppaa vn dki »tpw dpj n^ia kvi *vyn it *a 
 vm rmmn nab nx Dennis vn n&sn Sy -nay 1 ? 
 D*naaa vn dk in » n^p laspp D^nnn nsDD own 
 vtd« tftttffn /D^in np^p vn dpp wn vrnS 
 *n taxi • taSn n6i iy^P nVi i r\bw ixa DnS 
 D^a-i&p n& Sa » aSn rpna D'pbx run* Sp aibtip 
 nain ».pK»w>n Sp D^Sinn rva napa ik/?
 
 ^Siki ' dkto minyb ixfc D'ppmew ma 
 nnton Sy mab uS m Kin wd» ran nana 
 
 "jon&yai Div» 
 
 »nwfe vrow mta -an dj *3 . kSsi m^bh k^sj 
 
 nso ran Six . ia D'-nson h& nso *na " o 
 cwnaj w D*»vn •» ' "i3 Dnxaran Se> 
 n:n*o toya pn MDp onso jnWn Sy Dnurf? 
 nryi ny*n unyn »fif? 13^* 'D*t&Wi tpa& 
 niD^ *m texS pa n DnS M n vh *i >hm 
 D^n^n^tba nn\n orraa prodi 'tra^S 
 onw Dniy warn Spn^ awa Dnfasi 
 ":"i3 »tu naS qwi ah mw Mn 
 
 nnn . D*rown dhisd Sw nso ran snsn pya 
 
 ■jro T*a hy oron nson kw] ktbh •na^ Sy 
 toJ? A » n wid 1 ? am CDnso nat^a nnv 
 onroroi * jnn «S "M » wrwaro tmaa icvn 3btp 
 ran »Dnnin «n w w 'Dinyn ny dh^h n« 
 : B|nariBi n&rrnn onyn* nmn mannS pi narai *aS 
 
 m Kin dSidS pwri » on affln 'ran " '*a 
 x&nnw xb nx » "id -fcvnbm W D^in 
 Sy n^nS my ^ nnS vpoy m& jwm 
 D ,( ?mn rvn »pTisD wn« bn *mfl nixna 
 onw 'iNib ny nib win Dinjo^DW Sc
 
 3 
 
 rata Sy mi k>k yyrh Sws ni&>n& m niB>mi 
 rW>n .n*o rorcn ub m wx n^x njn wan 
 *£& rranaai K-uwn minn nso n« win xS • ufc 
 ni k • ?ki # n mrra ip?nm tow ib>k ny wjm 
 ™ieto in rum *a niKEtoa injw n^K p*«n 
 nztonrto rarwa » mnni nytan p^to tonsni » rarw 
 » nto«n p yw ib« n? »oi * unw w& "puto 
 mvn nnx am Dsnn e>*Kn b>sj ^ id*k iidk 1 ? 
 % «n Sd • patoi snai yn^i naan TtftoSa » cnto 
 d*$DB> iy-r pnrtaon ^nn ^ » nrjnv way ny&y 
 nn dt '\n ib>k *in ^a Wur % &an& dwi . pato 
 , yvra » rriinn nx nirw&n ni&ann y3E> ^ i&S 
 ro:ton -natoS -tkjs nnxa njiann n&sn ^ n^x 
 pirvy 'D&S pnepnni rmwn rub^ni >unnn mrp 
 * djwa nx n)ibh n^x ns d^i • narai > niKipai 
 S^ tvd tsmn »a Dnjmna vi&kb> n&J nnni 
 '^ n^n *o roy <"d nnptoi SSsnnS niy-iv m*k 
 *nSy&i d^p w nma niJtop nvto' vafc *onrto 
 Dnina Kipa NinpSi SSsnnS mjnv p*K dx yj&cn 
 
 ^miDBW ix > jvun^a-rray 
 
 p^nyi wmh *\m nnnnn Sd ayEo mo" 'to* 
 iron nninrr vu» era nrKa » ta^n* 
 wan o » mn&n n^yj can»pji Dmn&s? 
 DyDn 'Dnix mx-to de> vox? D % nnn WBto 
 
 "jdh nvp: DTon an 
 nvwa tqd n3 *\yb Kin nn^S ^k" 
 nixS id 1 ? n^*nni » c^ nso^n ik& nmnn
 
 to' 
 
 ♦ nnyi SK»aKfiD<K \\wh 'pn ytsh wibh 
 *m a? 'pn p&yS pn n»S» kS DnjDWtn 
 rison^ nt?K P*«n Dno^a tk& tk&i » pe>Sn 
 newi 'Jinan p^S raa nx n&SS ityaa 
 ono"» m*k » nnn Sy cnnya 0»k no* 
 bmo*a dj »n 'nnS D^nn omM imx 
 n&2>x mw nrra v 'y otik T*nS » D'WJ 
 *t Sjn » imy ^rrpi ima* nnito u«b royjan 
 ": "id * npi^n epo njnD 
 
 pn on-iaon pn ' W?n wn on^n *prn dj 
 jinf? 1 nnx rrSofcn tv 'njnS nnx [six D*nnEwn 
 » onimix poajr «Si < Sx rvn rtayn n^Dfc t^*n 
 ntap ib'n Dvn pS Sx-i^S nSiSon rtebn kvi 
 Dnnpi nra D % pS« Sip jwi » % *d m Sy i^n 
 xini ♦in may -ie>n dv "in "i*»S ony-rim >ynh 
 wrv n»nn ivbwi 'K-ijmi mwb *npi& -n&^n pn 
 mm* rvn ra^a nao* nn tia^n ♦■y pm ,«n 
 ibw nvSan ^ nnyo pn nmaup T^rn na ne^i 
 |M -it niiJb? oyitt tx vn dxi » raranS nyo 
 » ppin |aan '\n inn » ennn nnn wy&n Santr 
 nnn xS nnni * rca Sy maim npw *n rtn Sni 
 enwn BTrpn iwhn pm > niy taw qk> vn 
 nays? Kin » cnn^ Ston mS win Dniyjn ^n nSn 
 fp b$) ♦nxrn rmnn -ivam n**^ uSi umnx 1 ? 
 »OTvfa w nnnxn 'pn n&nx Sy Mtrvn urox 
 'Wnittjn umibS yid JwyS moa unia D*no»i 
 u&vyn Sy& Siyw dx d^xi >tbyi2 vrninx fro
 
 IT 
 
 rrin TDion mxn cdSd naao ma px" t 
 SSji *sta i np-ra niya lfcap dj npix ^ix^S 
 DaSa iax^ tx > nprw lcrpn* nnx Dys pi dx 
 
 P|D33 DE>£tt nx p£oS VT&Sl ' DK>33 TI33 ^3 
 
 nn -piai rppb on* SxS &r ie>x npuei 
 iS\i aaw nyai 'Onnnx on^n 0:1 13^ 
 nbapb nsxa Tap 1 ? Sav ifc^x iy nonya 
 
 "jnprcn spa 
 
 *Sy3 inn* xSi ima* xS *p** 'Xiin dvx xSsS 
 n&a Sy pSpi na D'aaiEn »ti inaa nxn ny-nnn 
 'HpiSnn DhSa DSax3 ib>x rnnp 1 ni^s^ nttr>i 
 vn 'DT3 na e>» pi dxi >x3n onmx oonS »jsS 
 Qnbn npiSnn cnS D^n^yn nrb ytsrb D^oxno 
 ma hmdi yji Soy crx Sal ' nnay onS pina 
 
 DV 1 ? Dlpttl ' XVEtf VIS «OD 1B>X pyi H^yD SaS 
 
 on mm «dix *uf? fcn" xSi pw tip* xS i^x 
 Sy pin jwSn rata 'DaaS ^yss Sy nSn div 
 M n» mm /nxoK'S onnS anmtt ^3 crrnx *3S 
 -♦jvx a^v Si oy Sy nWn owi niyS diS 
 naa ii3aS inyiinn *Sy3S diS '\i no uyT xS 
 jdhS nynnn moo tsraw *Ta DO*y nx 
 
 wn Dmson pa TitrSn *aiTi dhS*h "jirn" ?v 
 1x0 1x0 nSyn: px ^nifnnnn njn&a pi 
 ♦ tfttaewn pa DH^n -prm iidSi *an Sy 
 SSa *]iia &yoa own » mSSian w pa 
 dSix • perS dw airoSi niipS niyiv p*« 
 orviai ' d:tj3 nx ioSS ixd d^ddj dhisdi
 
 w c*o i n?n -pya&? nwx raa ni&ipD nKffaa 
 iy» nvpia on % a na p»mrfe fear xbs? d*# tq 
 M\n ■ nnab np«n pm » mB^» »a rraa p« »a 
 man 1 ? rvan mpy K*m . npyan K*ro on^n dk 
 chS »m »drana nSa Sy oki ^nanai S^aSi 
 new Dn^y D"pn dj hhih xb mi »cnfey rfeoirfe 
 *W? bbw irfcn man N^a »a <nK? px rcsn D^an 
 \3£& *a » Kin np^ni • rbhu *& rniaa on*afeia 
 afeapa mw rafe dj nonan pnim nrnn prm 
 :nnnB>a ik rwa nnpS |feav hS npfen 
 
 nayai nv^ ny *h na ny lanaN new Sa" '?d 
 ♦jnnn naya Sy im nan 1 ? ufey na^n »*3SHn 
 nmay rwjfe Dnaa b>* n^x D*an p* ♦ *naiani 
 "5 '13 caSa roar nna p& rnaafew 
 
 uhn> \xn najnna 'Dn Man »a» mwn nainn 
 nnaa anw n« nipjfe ippa nyninn anyai /an 
 
 • nSx Sdd nn* utapj na > nnx n*ya &tk p)Sk ne? 
 pax* *a ?naiaa oa ^nama dj a^n Dn ^ 
 jama r*nairm aiaa onjrT na^ dm am ?na? 
 
 • naxai ? naiai *amn jpia on 1 ? nife nrnn arfe xa 
 ba »*y *a iiaaa pnn Dabi »ijra* "nDio" as? pn 
 noiaai oa nan tfei iary *ffes *iDia new nixinn 
 laana i carman spaai • nam na d^ laany »aiaa 
 px S*?a yn Sy »a »nana * nix '"an ne>pa 
 in?x ofeeoa nai »nmay SaS pan *«a ya& jtd 
 nniay rne^fe Dnaa ww D % an cy* »a Dnaiw ^ti 
 
 : nax^ai
 
 la 
 
 *?aa QHirvw *pr\ p« wv 1 ? yiTi *fcr 'T 
 B'nyian *m pi /&yia tna a»psnaa na^n 
 iyr Dta 1 ? nans? Kin yiT dj 'baixa itiyn< 
 iv pK ' DJiaa hk its 'nSa 1 ? *|nnn iva*i 
 ynmbi nSa win by nan ^DinS nKa vh 
 omnw pTiM *aBT pa yrr nan Kin nr d^ 
 "tn^anyb spa Tan anban d»m*ct nan 
 
 yx *a > nyninn *bya ^ya nKa nKa D»«f?M 
 
 aaabip nnna nK^a nE>K rbbip an*a*biab inaann 
 a^nyiab BKnipi Sinn anipsnan nbya Kim ma nan 
 ny »Drrosb nymnn nnaa nyn mnpna Kb *&)$ 
 w« *a tpt (Dnyn ^S) na nan dj ia miy nt?K 
 craya *a naba »spa nKibn pjyai »ntb m pjy 
 D^a&ran San ntrK rTJiib imam *nKa nKa ns 
 py Kwb -p ba an*a inys Kb * na ny mayp 
 spa Tan anba on&> bniTh pnK wy by na^K 
 bab ynui /nxin nymnn *bya i^y^ laa 'D^anyb 
 nKibm n^payn ba •a » vn wrp my nys? <Ka 
 nnnai n&>an pnn*a pn&>yj SriB" *3a p spa 
 taca ya anani Knpaa pan 1 ? a*ynv abiai 'Kpay 
 
 nvpia D*nnn d:tk bbaa takenr *aET" 'ia 
 i ansa Dnin'n by ya^Ka c\snai » nnnaai 
 ynn oaxa my orby nyn nan «wib 
 nvpab bm:» *pi* kw ran obiK • nbinni 
 ■pra h p*saa imw ob^wa np* nan Kin 
 ":nK?n pKa nnnani nrnnn 
 
 nbiya nmaa *biK d.i Tyn »ro ana Kin nvpjn
 
 to 
 
 DVJ3 nSynnSi oiay-innS ona^ nain niv d^khid 
 roaa^a mSiya pieod roKian onixnn Dai *dv Sk 
 m&ynS dpi 1 ? maiy 'nWi d*m cna t na*B>w 
 n« owa» dVde> D»ayn nrv naa nSnn ntoyD 
 ny-rnn ^ya ivsn *b\ • orwin Sn^ Sy D*Tin*n 
 o^amx vm ♦ ♦ ♦ *sft ywS pi kS /nixnS Da 
 rr-onn *na paa Dipeb eraSm vn » nib roan*? 
 Sa *Sa cy »»ay m vw DnyB> nx» rrnwi 
 ^awi D^na dtdS msnai mnyoa m pno my 
 t3S&>D Nwtei »ni3iarin in» nmh onxia vm 
 
 'OnaaBw 1 ? arb mix* n^xn Dnann Da&a*" o* 
 "j 'mi D*-nsDnS («S SSa 9?a i«) toy» p*T) 
 
 '.tiftzmtrh onnsDn pa i^ys? nv&nsnn Sa Sy 
 'Hxnaa 'SSa njPT ik nyn pa dk >Siwn haw 
 ? Bf-ip 1 ? Bnp pa SnariS oaS pikSd *p K ? P 3D ^"^n 
 iaaw »ne n^x lama ibw fDnaapwn dhisdh pa 
 wx»w wsnann Sa& itdimo oym kSi dwi 
 »nvBnaKn roaviian w& Sa rrfenpon wa t?» <on 
 D^in » ovapa ^ Sao wd ny minn *&an» 
 D^Hpen &r cna » prin^Sni pan nia^n *Dan -tx& 
 tua D*pDiycj> W ana » miayi minS pi Drrniny 
 yap Drnin D*Bnjn ' miayi Tinoe nraa p« -pin 
 ca d^ips dwx an '-p^nn an '**oy Dna&te 
 my pa nra dib^S SpiB> nw naio nwi 'tsn 
 
 myb
 
 T 
 
 wiyi 'nv^n *aw in 'Wm 'enn 'ima 
 pa pn iKttM nS nnaa rtmay naijn Sid 
 
 ?^nDD ^21 nV3WK h$2 TBB& anS HJa *a 
 
 DTtSiB* dSeit 'a^va Snj iron pSnn # naxai 
 ,ann Qntr Tana ^ain d^ .arvsa fan Saa 
 ran • dtmbo Soya arvaS spa iamb a^paa oan 
 Sd *Sya nxa a^ai »*'arota a^unni amnion an 
 p* a^ayan Sao wu dsi 'oSiya^ nnaw w 
 ♦a iweo ny '*p ntrn nan vryai ittHaon wa 
 dj vn .iapia n»a Sn tjn *wa vwkwd *i«ro 
 a^aysa wrb m^w niniSnai • anwaa oj amsaa 
 mini n^a Sna nwa on -upaw Wa »warnpn 
 m n*rv nya iS awn nmiSnai ' aiDana* nya 
 oiYTtaS xxia l*py «S ton »*« r« ^ M "^ 
 Saa 'nniny an aipa aipan p« *a iwin naN 
 tisna Sy SiaySa yjaj ayaa pw pc 'Hn? 
 
 ,niNaS ny eya miayi naxSa nap vfotm 9 a* 
 aSa S^a pn Sa pa in 'iNa jap psrtti 
 aasaa aasy ha annS p"ny wva a*ai 
 
 "iiaina i*ra»jsy Wn 
 
 ? nn ^ l, s nn K anann aiWi ii»*p pi ann *a 
 nnSa « ma Dai » pmn Sn Bftawm pay na *ai 
 
 nN ni annia a:n ^naxn hn annia onnaiB> 
 crra nwa] ntna ns£>a anaiN on-jW? »a »n? 
 w *|K ax ynn Da*aa y"N annS onaaai axsnp 
 obm* ^atrv *a • iavyS ny nawn • iaS iny
 
 D^pr Dm fcyo wmx w s mm > rwa: any-Tin p« 
 **b o? mra *Tb wai n d*id* tid* -ie>k D^ibm 
 nnv ns ar d« • n^n *o bhti » wa p roiD by 
 -isdd b&? ^n;n *sS mnx ■vpaa nb-rn by •pwi 
 
 *ba in Dnns^D oy D^in tropin an qvi" * 
 nab [onaiao dspm np^n 03 Qnnspo 
 on»«n man Delays obi** < tbmv p n nya 
 brii nannfc rjn 'Mi d«b» wf my nban 
 i bba ■pi by • owa Dtj *n naaa> *^n 
 oyato :it& *sb priya Twuvib o^an onwkn 
 "jmiay naabfc ba jwyb ona pa 
 
 inpN ia£DP b"in nana niitoxn by ubjb rua 
 o^art nsr« Dopin w man** byi » i»y *\mix nsai 
 Sy Daw m |yob o » ^n na^b rn n^n 
 D*iNm 'n:ybb ni iasn Dny-nna on »a*na rift-ian 
 emkh D3»x D&vya dw "pn ps % ":y nn* nya 
 jwa nna pa *a ' rrrr irtfi&xa a Sai nr by 
 nito] nbK 'Davy nan opinio oj-onanb pi&a 
 *a yiw » s^a^n miaytt imap dh D^an *a [n 
 *a » DnDix nfii » owa mok pn aa^b ixbir Kb 
 : "i3i Dna pa* nyata jt& *eb D^an D^»n bba ty 
 
 ba axoi nftyft nx wm inpn tn& -ind" w* 
 nx»b rwy i»a /Dmiayi Dnaxba pian m^ 
 a«nb 'naxbto in inDft cnb w dtd ^byaa 
 Dy» >dh:q ix baix nmaD v y nnoa ipy* 
 »*ua nb-tfD /D M n naxbo naiS»bD ityy* dhd
 
 »ra kS n? Sai 'nya Kin n&ai [Dpjsn mix 
 
 ♦ nnayfc? ru&n nainni nann Sa Sy wbw m win 
 nyn 1 ? i ns xin *?pa nam ' D^apo ww nbx TiSa 
 
 . 'Wia ixn ainpa n^x on D»uaB>xn arr 'n 
 qttydk new ix /-p*^ 1 anan:i jySxsi 
 D*yae> ix d^b> pn rm » nun^n onixa ixa 
 pxa na^S onia&yxnS nisn jnw rw 
 nan p"nxa nufe ixas? D^xnia D*an >'pn 
 Sp nan »a jjr * xasn nmaya inna ns?K 
 nxan mia^pn jvox Sy jrioaS canS Kin 
 "tia» -vyS xw n^noo 
 
 nyn vn x*anS nnaa tw nxn nynn nann 
 Sxntr ^Sx niaan Sy roma na&etoi nx:ib>i nan 
 nmayo cmma Sxns^ oa *a onaxa » nnnx f nxa 
 nana ^n^Syn pmw xa Sxx" srx n:m >xasn 
 >Dn:nia awS xS nymnn ^ya -px /nj&xa nynS 
 niaan nn^a iSat^ d^yv *aa>v |np nanna kS 
 ansai >cnnana n&x «n nx dji <nnnx pxa BHp 
 n^x cnnx dwx b^ dxi • n^ia^ Dn*sa px *a 
 ,'pr\ pxS ixai niana ixr cnmay w inn nnx 
 ton owia xSi »on D*an xb 
 
 Sy D'psnn D"jy pn n&n wnxib D*an" 'D 
 ntay "n rwrb D^-iman Dm > D^paai rbin 
 lyiaBW man:n^ pSn nnph p-r\xb crxai 
 "jo^rfe an ys^a njxan&y
 
 nwaw dhwi pa ntyyra rbx baa yv tb m* 
 /naa by mn« nnaia 'Wffl e^oaipn pi 'Drmp 
 ,paa *wdi niD bs on 1 ? p« nyninn nan »a 
 nai [pan yoD nsob *i*na aib'en nie^p "noni 
 »tfjnv ianaa "nibnpn *aav tbna »Kaaa] wains? 
 ca»aan na^a Da ianND Da iyft&s> -p^nn pn *a 
 jnsft by -pmb lana xb " D"ay " • y n »«n> D»aarn 
 dmi ' rwnnn tub *sa pn Dnnan ba *tii » Dn^a 
 ms nab * nsD by onibynbi Dhan vsa ywb pn 
 Dnb nb&? nann y/ y ,dj o ' Dny^oa niacin tjDa 
 iba*SJ> DipDi *a mxn WW ' nymnn nan baa 
 : paninan nya ^ 10 ° "|Dn ioa » wap pftpb 
 
 pDyn s &? crab Db&>b nyma lab jrron ^100 ^n" o 
 oaarein xb (pinina la^n) pit pap lanya 
 "tnrb *iann wx i»nto Kb *a 
 
 vn D^pafc vn dxi »iKxa Kb p by oya< nS 
 nymn D^ynia vn «bi < paai ibm jtk oa t^wna 
 
 : ira 
 
 nxa n&>p cafom* p'nya whk nsos nx" '? 
 
 "{'13 nynb 
 
 Q^ma *sa iy&w n& pi *a ^nana nift oa 
 niffenn *pn& yiT win n^« nsDEni >yninb oa ijrr 
 /ynvnb o^fin vn pn dk naya* ^bbian »Dpan 
 *6n oai » paan nso^n D^ynvi own vn nna ny^a 
 wm » Dpasn i*n «- Dnvna D^aa^xn b&!> nyin n*aa 
 nbnnn nyj rann rwa vn n^a ni^san n^Dft
 
 paw d» kiw brun d»o irn » msm Wfl* 1 
 
 "Mai *dhd hw nn* -iy 
 
 •a #tkd PttBp pN npna niSiaan onjTT BJ 
 "?pn^ nany" D^a ixnp d^vrb itffi ^nn 
 i*n naa >\zabn n^oaa naanan ik didn Syai 
 
 ?n ( Dmn Witf* px nam 
 
 >nra jma *a» iwc niyfinn Sa mpD" ti 
 "Soaip ^a » Bbeni* S^ *Bwan *aa 2<n 
 d^an *aa » ninx nsen » Kpny&x » rt 3«bna 
 n^n w *s» ' D*rnw *sa ' d^inn *na S^ 
 uydwnja oa SSan ibw »r\\w mraatD 
 *itt& *£& 'd'inWn »sa <mbnpn »aai *sa 
 dwsnibn dwx *sa dJ » DnniD *s» » rwnnn 
 'pn p«S *fci nnnN iwtkj iB>aiB> n&& 
 on dSa Sjn ' QSda nn*sa cawienw 
 mjnin nw » p"$na> d"# 'so upew niynnn 
 u«nB> "TO pmnD y/ y d"anyn ^ i^a^ 
 
 ": yvxnpd 
 
 ^dw nfi pn bn^rvgrnn Sa *a »r?na *&! rwn 
 
 p« naaj niat? yDi^n ♦jtkS iywni 'dnnx *sd 
 inbMD.'K Sa& *a »«wrn Sa o^n »|W p»A w 
 ti my m &*arfc dnaa bto onm pn itspb 
 B>Vdnpn hy\ wan n^K jdikti *a <|v* na^v 
 m^Sn >yn pn aiD niT n&?K nnx *raa* ^S 
 man dw da 'ski > xa ainpa n? ♦ewan *a . ansa
 
 £3 
 
 did im twjh hd »ns niSSm *&5>ki ^a rwoi 
 jwj/? pan iyin ivk pfta »a&>v ny^S nrpi 
 b^in «» ibmi . Dra} onn tn uibti ini » np^? 
 ixbsi nSx dwi oson D3i:i Tjnn bx OTQte>n 
 ? mrfei Sin^S iyinS ny ■pra n& , 'K » uhxd 
 D^n* »D3h Syi "^ pnsn ia>n Sy ^dS p^n 
 y/ y pin 1 ? ij;in nh&z *'* ?niai mb> nr vyira 
 mm v^pni » d^»m D»a iipa my yna • d^jk 
 ni onn ntoia ibm ibw d^ki *ani » nnnco 
 D»pt>£Jb vn a 1 ? i Dnn nnbiy f n rcna wki mm D*3P 
 ra? %aa bw 1 ? wa *a » nnra niyn* tznS 
 : npiin pt? na ny Saa D^\saan 
 
 wny *yn ^as? s'yNP »p&K» Spin stk ^a" >o 
 r"iai anioS vn rminj aiy iy npaa ctewa 
 Sa nx yiae^ i^sjk w iai rt n nr San 
 
 " : ixp pia D^isn 
 
 yw 1 ? ib>sk w nan 'm *a oena th\ mn 
 rrtiina vn Dn*niny »y:n Sa xS it?« /Disa^ »'W] 
 pi *a <Sa pyS nxiii 'i^S won iewai n:S 
 
 tnyunn Sa na«r *w wxfc nywn «a& 
 
 -pin Sai os* fiytn ib>k nifcipan nSxv »i 
 naiy D^n d^sS yiun -pin wn » obew iy 
 d^it pa nubipan » rrnia'aDi d^yv » pis? 
 ma nana i mrr naiy • pin pay • dhd di 
 px mm Sa dk nttia roiaTjn rn&hponp
 
 n 
 
 rrrpnm np*m nn« *ny&pp onm Sa 
 av& ry oSpwa wr\ ny * ♦ • *jk > wpyp 
 nrby npx na DaS yma d: . op ww 
 na ir:*y mm nron yi&p ^nx unyn Sy 
 /DV «3 prrca unap »o» M »dp npyjn bi 
 npnm rrvpna Deploy wm r6*a own S»ni 
 "joSpin-a tinwi aim -pn 
 
 nS > nmx mnS dSpit nrp **a Sab yYm ^ 
 nwrih nnc nixnS pn dj dv npy np&n ip»sb 
 nipnSi PirnS *6i »w«md -ipx nijTnyn niaipai 
 nyninn Aya *a D^pai »!tpjk a*D ws by dj 
 Sk dSpitj&i * tbmih is*a » ww doto ipy 
 cnS n*n xb) > dw np^n » isA cmim * prwi 
 Si /DW mpy inb ips oipnbi m*rb *)&a ^na 
 ptksd iibx dj ipk An dp:i *a» np^n di-iid 
 ipy ™i i row n:« nabb nj nxpj nai » rra 
 »nianp *apvi oAan *so fna onaba pi »qrwwn 
 . DHirrn aim im hS dj-/ jbnb tkwp *&& np^yni 
 , pw^jriK tsian bp \hb rvaa » pnwKWi aima »a 
 ipk Dnnxni /DP Niaba lyj&j 'n *kt D^an ipk 
 : n&riDnnS iba* kS » "ttaan »isa i«a 
 
 dwS nyDD^D W» nibxp D^ypni naa nx " a 
 >M wn ny h^ i«a nS nym tsid S^uay 
 lovy *s;a oniK Skp lawn nsioni » 'ia *mira 
 
 " j 'ia 
 
 nxb unSsj np« nDixyn wnrr&n D>y& mo nra 
 unxD npn am pit? npx » njpa nip/ n«o
 
 T 
 
 nnnft xwrh wrya n&p* nxa nxa » 'j • wnaiera 
 wxn xS fc naxa n^x »a»na by na nan irv 
 ni *a ornyn ^y rby xb nymnn nnna w 
 nnna x w » xm 13331 n&» *a tia&xn ns?x » c^xn 
 ■an nn nxn nymnn iaa /jpina wxb> nan it 
 'ffsfl fOnni yr xS xin a ^ya^n 1 ? ntysx *xe> 
 / ninr^ nns tixro xSi onnx nx ^a Sy lining nnx 
 nanx *a ,rbx b^b> ^a Sy Dvn aS die^S Sau ub 
 »nfo Sy nS^y nipix naua x^inSi n&xm dSpit 
 rxinn ann tmi by in ^^ vn uraa pxi 
 d*b>jx »ab« »nwi tbmv naa S^nb dx *a 
 ■ D*pan an wpbx 'nm nninn *D3in » D*pnsi D*nj> 
 pya trim ow^i vs nw xb n^x nymnn byai 
 xS n^x nniri ma »ao pn ys&> n$i>x onan bna 
 ormn nxxb Unix xan xin oia nixnS mwru 
 :a^p rwpr6 w n&>n nx mn&n 1 ?! 
 di^i /.nymnn nana man nan p^nynb mm 
 
 omen nam nan bn nai^n 
 
 nn»m nxir > nx? Saai »nS nyninn *bya ixnp ^a 
 ^D3ini # n *tnb on^on nrny ana *sa nmsy 1 ? 
 'pso ^a xin 'nSnx nnDD nntann na^Di »frnn 
 nnon dw n& bbr\j:r\ Sa 'Vrn inaxp na D"pb 
 : on Tfi max) <bn iaaD D»ynsj 
 
 W nyin ^yaa dw onan pari nixSaS" x 
 nx ma tw« jmnba Wis?* nibnp TiiSt?
 
 1 
 
 nwnpn wmin ^xi »pn pan *?n Bnp niE>n 
 nnB>v n my Sd Wi »n^n tim moa Ski 
 rnp» nmib rmrfc "uym u«nw -pin" uanai »jvx 
 
 j «*nn ' vry nannn 
 » D^n ny n ^^n nn« , 1 J^IN JWJ "lttf ' nn ^ t| 
 jvx *» nx nn«n d^sS sk ran** ^ »niKn wyi 
 • dp&3 -pn8Wi Dirnx Sx mu on dj nn « onpm 
 -pnnix pido win wt ^y > irw* fish onaam 
 . prom nsxn ^s yonx niy ^y ittypnm » Tvpiai 
 
 jhSd &pp dduiy tt ^y n^x ^ "poo *3 
 nWan "nynin" pyb& n*«r nSxn d»M *a 
 rn*Mrn rnwin tiaai firnwi dS^it 103 nsyS 
 niaafwi bwn onina hy) 'T\yy omn xS D^pi hv 
 ny /^ay ny nbwn nn^n dSiid n« /Dnnn nS 
 *py "dnxo' |s me>nn *nSnS nnm wSy ti&rea *a 
 .twin nymnn nnn rw '^ wn ^sb n)vh wbyi 
 ipTXhi noan inv n^x *sd 'ran nm Sri rai^m 
 nannn mnS>i EnnS nwf? non au w niton npm 
 $61 BHpa nS * bmk ^a kb>* wbi » tons bn Sy 
 tw oipa Kin jy» » c^iy urna i&xyi < S'va 
 ppSin pa D^n Si^n »»» Dipo ^ »DB>n hhr\ 
 
 nnanS »'K oa^y o^p n 1 ?** nt^e* o »dmdk dw 
 n«n^ vryn \vzb ^nnnSi diffc «^ itrn m^ n« 
 / iriT^S 103 VJT&A y^cn 1 ? i^Sy n»p » a • ^3 nx 
 dho bSon 1 ? ^13 «b n^x 'Dnni323 or« D*itD*a
 
 nnx -jra >vn D^n* mnp vsh cvn xn n^K 
 
 wyy na nnpa wnpn paS nyiB>n -pv^y 
 paS iWaMn -|nnnx vn& nx niiW? nx^ nnta 
 "pniyoD nw Sd 'Hi n^vn *n ny ^n^i pn 
 >nti D*enp fi^np nTi^n yearn »'on enp p"nxS 
 ns?K rw ewSk>i ^ann Sn #*n Sy f r mn 
 I'IinS twi*t njn *pJ? niD niann 1 ? nsDim n'mn 
 
 enpn yn 1 ? naa> ^ ujw iwx ovn fbSi 
 
 T5^ ub& Tayni /^Ktiii *]n«s n -i&b>* jyaS 
 rtrinn *p*jn ' r sn P*° r sn x ^m ' ™>&n 
 ■ps n« nnwn nvtnfe rom 1 pxsj> nu tfeBW 
 bx nr) ^ [nun ^ni - nn dvpo way ns t^jd 
 : y n my n^D 'r6 nnx -p-ai 'pun nnn "prm 
 Sy • "iiinD iTia irbtt dv . run dwi Toa nfci 
 win ny » wnpan sk mynm » ^rona nnap nr in 
 rrnn na win nyw vb vyy n^x » *ps nix 
 e?k rrcmba way *pn-n *pB Sy nnp new unpn
 
 -i^j dhde 
 
 DH^n n^n Sx 
 
 rn » # n»a nva^tMia rw» td 
 
 rn ,rny Db&jnvn
 
 aK-vai nDana rrnna *nan piun ann n"n D»»Diiaon D^mn 
 
 nm nox hdd nana 
 
 Br»b«pi iVip »brrNiip p"pi ra« d^d 1 ? 
 
 x"aain D^mv P"nya Dniaw nMiai H rra e>&n nyai 
 
 rwwn noana rrnna hian twin aim 
 
 toJK^D ^kib^ ma 
 
 a"nin kwt p"W? ma ov yna^ rrVinn non a"a '« ora 
 
 ntsrrpn p*a dv ayaiN roi^ 
 
 ayrwa nvs^ia wa n^n 
 
 nxi wjn db> nxn x>x ba nx a ; "in d Wi» *anixi p*s am *Bnr6 tj» 
 
 am i3"i "?a by D£?a nam nnatan r6xn on?wn ^ao y»tv t»"x *?d 
 
 nroia *nan n*n P"ni?a kvdih nnxi iDn tsscni pi* im 
 
 nwnpn nnann , a^in 'nam iaD »nan t'-nrnt) ^nani 
 
 , pam ppn » nat6»m rniayn , nnxiaon ntapm 
 
 " niP'nM nriya" naie« »a by rwm ropnn 
 
 nssmpn p*6 vyoaa np» nys ht nie> ova 
 
 pi:ib 
 p"ab rv'bnn niB>a
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
 Los Angeles 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
 to OCT IS 71 ' 
 
 RtC'D LD 
 
 ; RENEWAL N0V1 
 
 DISCHARGE 
 
 LD * Bf0 
 
 mi MAY?' 
 *^ JUL 115 
 
 
 -URL 
 6 
 
 Form L9-32m-8,'58(5876s4)444
 
 UC SOUTHERN REGIWU^j|MR^'jg|L 
 
 AA 000 828 324 4 
 
 
 yj 
 
 3 1158 00426 9931
 
 i 
 
 
 "i 1 ? j Dr\-3 
 
 rrrcri i^n Sk 
 
 rn/EnKa nvawin- n^ia- td 
 
 rn p''ny D^wn 
 
 
 II 
 
 1 
 
 Hfl 
 
 
 H 
 
 &M£';?&.me? 
 
 TET