Under Other Flags Travels, Lectures, Speeches. WILLIAM JENNINGS BRYAN 1904 The WooDRUFF-CoLiiiNS Printing Co. ijNcoiiN, Nebraska. TABLE OF CONTENTS On the High Seas 9 EuroTJean Letters 11 Tariff Debate in England 13 Ireland and Her Leaders 22 Growth of Municipal Ownership 29 Frane© and Her People 88 The Re)»ublic ©f Switzerland. 51 Three Little Kiugdoma : . . . 58 Denmark 58 Belgium 61 The Netherlands 64 Germany and Socialism 67 Russia and Her Czar 77 Rome — the Catholic Capital 83 Toistoy, the Apostle of Love. 98 Notes on Europe 1C9 Thanksgiving Address, London, England ...... 125 The Pearl of the Antilles 187 Birth of the Cuban Republic 156 Patriotism, Havana, Cuba 171 Mexico, First Visit 179 Mexico, Second Visit 194 Value of an Ideal 213 A Conquering Nation 245 The Attractions of Farming 277 Peace, Holland Society Dinner 291 Imperialism, Acceptance Speech 1900 305 "I Have Kept the Faith," St. Louis Speech 341 Naboth's Vineyard, Denver, Colo 357 British Rule in India . . .363 Philo Sherman Bennett, at His Grave 379 Wonders of the West 883 ILLUSTRATIONS Frontispiece. PopQ, Tolstoy and Nicholas. INTRODUCTION. The articles, lectures and speeches contained in this volume are published in this form for two reasons First, because I desire to preserve them tor reference; and second, because the inquiries re- ceived in regard to them indicate that others may desire them in book form. The lectures are pub- lished for the first time. The articles on my trav- els, except Notes on Europe, have been published before, and due acknowledgement is made. On the High Sea Introductory to the European Letters Written by Mr. Bryan On The High Sea. On Board "The Majestic," Tuesday Evening, Nov. 17. — "Rocked in the cradle of the deep" — I recalled these words when the royal mail ship, "The Majestic," dropped her pilot at Sandy Hook and turned her prow toward Liverpool, but I could not either the first night or the second truthfully repeat the next line — "1 lay me down in peace to sleep." But the ocean was so smooth and the weather so favorable that the evidences of sea- sickness soon disappeared and the trip has been a most enjoyable one. The steamer flies the English flag and belongs to the White Star line, .^he is 585 feet long, 58 1-2 feet beam and has a capacity cf 1,433 souls (in- cluding crew of 316). The passenger rates run from $30 steerage to $350 for best rooms in first cabin. There are only 498 passengers aboard this trip, divided as fol- lows : 62 first class, 75 second diss, 361 third class. The boat also carries a large amount of freight. We left New York at noon Wednesday, Novem- ber 11, and will reach Queenstown -^oon after midnight tonight (Tuesday, 17th). The west-bound trip is ap- parently made in about ten hours less time because five hours are added to the time in traveling toward the United States, while five hours are subtracted from the time going east. Captain Edward J. Smith, commander of the ship, showed a party of us through the vessel and we 8 UNDER OTHER FLAGS could not but praise the cleanliness and convenience of all apartments and appreciate the efforts put forth for the security of those on board. We were awed by the massiveness of the propelling machinery, and then we went into the furnace rooms and caught a glimpse of the stokers who, down in the dockhold beneath the water's level, shovel in the nearly four hundred tons of coal required for a day's run. These men work four hours out of each twelve and receive about six dollars per week and board — the rates established by the English labor organization. One of the employes in the cabin said that the stokers on passenger steam- ers like "The Majestic" had much more pleasaiyt work than men similarly employed on gun boats, but it is hard to imagine any labor less inviting than that of the begrimed and perspiring men who kept the fires aglow while the passengers above compared exper- iences and discussed questions individual, national and international. An ocean voyage furnishes an excellent opportun- ity for extending one's acquaintance. At the table Mr. Charles Michaelson, of the New York Journal, was my neighbor on the left and next to him sat Mr. E. D.j Vaille, formerly American consul at Zanzibar, now on his way back to that country to purchase ivory for a New York firm. To my right sat Mr. Barrett, a Lon- don music writer of distinction. He was returning^ from his first visit to the states. Mr. Balcombe of London and Mr. Warren of Louisville, Ky., both ex-' tensive travelers, occupied seats at the further end of! the table. My son's seat was not often occupied, ow- ON THE HIGH SEA 9 ing to a disinclination on his part to risk the effect of the boat's motion on his appetite. At an adjoining table sat three of the most interesting men whom I have thus far met on the trip — Mr. Edgar Wallace of the London Mail, Mr. A. W. Black, until recently mayor of Nottingham, and Mr. A. J. Shepheard, a member of the county council of London. Among the passengers are the Earl of Denbigh and wife, Hon. J. A. Pease, a liberal member of parliament, Mr. S. B. Boulton and family of London, Father O'Grady of the Argentine Republic, Mr. Wetmore, a Chicago grain merchant, and son, and a number of others, each possessed of information in his particular line of work. Mr. Michaelson and Mr. Wallace are companions in journalism. Mr. Barrett entertained us with music, while Mr. Black and Mr. Shepheard have given me many valuable suggestions in the line of municipal ownership — suggestions gathered from their connec- tion with the governments of their respective cities. Lord Denbigh is colonel of the Honorable Artillery regiment which was recently so handsomely enter- tained by Boston and other eastern cities. His ban- quet speech at the Massachusetts capital showed him to be a happy after-dinner orator, his reference to the tea incident being especially felicitious. He said that the English and the Americans once had a little difference about tea in Boston harbor. The former, he declared, wanted the tea "in fresh water, hot," while the latter seemed to prefer it "in salt water, cold." He added that the English had learned dur- ing that experience "how not to govern colonies." The 10 UNDER OTHER FLAGS eari, being a conservative member of the house of lords, has enlightened me in regard to campaign is- sues and election methods and has also given me letters to a number of officials whom I desire to meet. Through Mr, Pease and Mr. Black I have arranged to hear Mr. Asquith, one of the free trade leaders in the parliamentary contest now in progress. He speaks near London next Thursday night. I hope to hear Mr. Chamberlain while in England. Mr. Boulton has for several years been connected with the arbitration of differences between labor and capital, and conversed most instructively on that sub- ject, as well as regarding the workingmen's clubs and other means employed for bettering the condition of the wage-earners. Father O' Grady enlightened me on many matters connected with his religious work in South America, while Mr. Wetmore supplied statistics on grain trans- portation. All in all, the week on the boat has proved most beneficial and but for the necessity of an early return to the United States I would regret the separation that must take place at Liverpool tomor- row afternoon. I shall mail this at Queenstown. While darkness conceals the land, we can see the light houses on the Irish coast and feel that the ocean voyage is nearly ended. In the morning we will pass up St. George's channel with the land of Brian Boru on one side and Wales on the other. From now un- til the hour comes to re-embark I shall see and hear and learn, and from time to time give the readers of The Commoner the results of my observations. European Letters The following European Letters were written for and copyrighted by the Hearst newspapers, and are reproduced by courtesy of William Randolph Hearst. European Letters The Tariff Debate In England. An American feels at home in England just now for he constantly reads in the newspapers and hears on the streets the tariff arguments so familiar in the United States. I can almost imagine myself in the midst of a presidential campaign, with import duties as the only issue. I have been especially fortunate in arriving here at the very height of the discussion and I have been privileged to hear the best speakers on both sides, Hon. Joseph Chamberlain, lately sec- retary for the colonies, left the cabinet some three months ago in order to present to the country the tariff policy which he believed to be necessary. Not desiring to make the government responsible for the proposition put forth by him he turned his official duties over to another and has been conducting one of the most remarkable campaigns that England has seen in recent years. He enters the fight with a number of things to his credit. He is a great orator, he is pleasing in man- ner, experienced in debate, skillful in the arraignment of his adversaries, and possesses the faculty of so 13 U UNDER OTHER FLAGS holding the attention of his hearers as to make them eager to catch the next sentence. He is not an im- passioned speaker, he has no grand climaxes that overwhelm an audience, but he does have what his friends call a "restrained eloquence" that leaves the impression that he never quite reaches the limit oi his powers. He is a man who would rank high in any land and as an antagonist he would not fear to meet the best on any platform. He is about five feet nine or ten inches in height and weighs about 175 pounds. He wears no beard and is impressive in appearance. The cartoonists take liberties with him as with other public men in draw- ings of him, and I may say in passing that there are some newspaper cartoonists over here who do ex- cellent work. Mr. Chamberlain is urging a departure from the free trade policy which England has followed for fifty years, and he defends his position on three grounds : First — That it is needed for the protection of Eng- lish manufacturers and English laborers. Second — ^That it is necessary for the defense and strengthening of the empire. Third — That a tariff can be used when necessary as a retaliatory weapon to make a breach in the tariff walls that other nations have erected. In presenting the first proposition he employes the usual protectionist arguments. He appeals to particular industries and promises better wages to labor and more constant employment. He complains that foreign products are being "dumped" in Eng- TARIFF DEBATE IN ENGLAND 15 land. The foreigner is accused of selling his surplus wares here without profit or below cost while he sells for enough at home to enable him to carry on his business. I heard Mr. Chamberlain's speech at Cardiff, the chief city of Wales. It was an audience largely made up of wage-earners, and his appeals were adroit and elicited an enthusiastic response. He dwelt at length on the tin industry ; figured the growth of the industry from 1882 to 1892 and showed that during the next decade the tin industry had suffered by the establish- ment of tin plate mills in the United States. He assumed that if the English government had been authorized to make reciprocal treaties it might have persuaded the United States to forego the pro- tection of tin plate in exchange for trade advantages in some other direction. He estimated the loss that had come to Welsh workmen because of the lessened de- mand for their tin plate and he contended that it was necessary to give preferential treatment to the col- onies in order to increase or even to hold their at- tachment to the empire. In discussing retaliation he seemed to assume what the protectionists of the United States have often de- clared, namely, that the foreigner pays the tax; and his argument was that England ought to tax the goods coming in from other countries if other countries taxed goods imported from England. He has coined phrases that are going the rounds of the press, the most popular of which is embodied in the question, "If another nation strikes you with a tariff tax, are 16 UNDER OTHER FLAGS you ^ittg: to take it lying down?" This phrase aroused a spirit of pugnacity at Cardiff and was en- thusiastically applauded. In presenting the claims of the empire, Mr. Chamberlain occupies much the same position as the American protectionist who contends that a tariff wall makes our own country independent of other nations. Tn presenting this arginnent the late colonial secre- tary has the advantage of the great popularity which he won during the South African war, the spirit of empire being just now quite strong in England. So much for the leader of the tariff reform move- ment, for strange as it may seem the English crusade for the adoption of a tariff is being conducted through the Tariff Reform League, which, with Mr. Chamber- lain's endorsement, is asking for a campaign fund of $500,000. On the other side are, first, the conservatism that supports the settled policy of half a century; second, the political and economic arguments which weigh against a protective tariff, and, third, the ability and personal influence of the men who are arrayed against Mr. Chamberlain. I have attended a number of meet- ings of the opposition. The first was at St. Neots, Huntingtonshire, where I heard Mr. H. H. Asquith, one of the liberal leaders in parliament. He is of about the same height as Mr. Chamberlain, but heavier, his face and shoulders being considerably broader. Mr. Asquith differs very materially from Mr. Qiamberlain in his style of oratory, but is a mas- ter in nis line. His is more the argument of the law- yer. He is more logical and a closer reasoner. He TARIFF DEBATE IN ENGLAND IT is regarded as one of the ablest public men in Eng- land, and after listening to him for an hour I could easily believe his reputation to be well-earned. While he discussed with thoroughness all phases of the fiscal question, I was most impressed with his reply to what may be called the imperial part of Mr, Chamberlain's argument. He insisted that prefer- ential duties would weaken instead of strengthen the bonds that unite England to her colonies because par- tiality could not be shown to one industry without discrimination against the other industries, and he warned the advocates of protection not to divide the people of the colonies and the people of the home country into warring factions and suggested that when these factions were arrayed against each other in a contest for legislative advantage, the harmony of the nation would be disturbed and ill-will between the various sections, elements and industries engendered. At a house dinner of the National Liberal club in London 1 heard another member of parliament, Mr. R. S. Robson, a liberal, who took retaliation for his subject. Mr. Robson presented a clear, comprehen- sive and concise analysis of the policy of retaliation; the strongest points made by him being, first, that re- taliation meant commercial war, and, second, that it contemplated a permanent policy of protection. He pointed out that no country had ever aimed a retalia- tory tariff at England; that tariffs in other countries were laid for domestic purposes and not out of an- tagonism to another country. He contended that oth- er countries instead of modifying their tariffs because 18 UNDER OTHER FLAGS of attempted retaliation on the part of England would be more likely excited to an unfriendliness which they had not before shown, and that if England were the aggressor, in such a tariff war she must necessarily be a large loser. He said that it was impossible to conceive of concessions being secured by a threat to raise a tariff wall in England. It would be necessary, he contended, if a retaliatory policy was undertaken to first impose a high tariff all around and then offer to reduce it in special cases. This would be a radical departure from the policy of free trade and would bring with it all the evils that had led to the abandon- ment of a protective policy under the leadership of Cob den. Besides the liberal opposition, Mr. Chamberlain has to meet the antagonism of a number of influential leaders who would indorse Mr. Balfour if he only pro- posed retaliation in a particular case where an open and grievous blow had been struck at England, but who are not willing to join Mr. Chamberlain in ad- vocating a return to a protective policy. I attended a great meeting held under the au- spices of the Free Food League and heard speeches delivered by the Duke of Devonshire and Lord Gosh- en. I was told that the duke was the only English statesman who ever took a nap during the progress of his own speech. Thus fore-warned, I was prepared for a season of rest, but the duke surprised his friends (and they are many) on this occasion and his speech has been the talk of the country since it was delivered. It was a powerful arraignment of the pro- TARIFF DEBATE IN ENGLAND !« posed tax on food, and taking into consideration the high standing and great prestige of the duke, will ex- ert a widespread influence on the decision of the controversy. The duke is a tall, strongly built man, with a long head and full sandy beard sprinkled Wfth gray. He speaks with deliberation and emphasis, but lacks the graces of the other orators whom I had an oportunity to hear. If, however, ease and grace were wanting, the tremendous effectiveness of the pile driver and the battering ram make up for them. He denounced the proposition to put a tax upon the people's food as a blow to the welfare and greatness of the nation. He scouted the idea that the tax would not ultimately extend to all food or that it would not raise the price of food and showed that the increase in the cost of food and clothing would take from the laboring man any advantage which Mr. Chamberlain promised to bring by his protective pol- icy. At the Free Food meeting the duke was followed by Lord Goshen, a conspicuous leader of the unionist party. Though now about seventy years old, he possesses great vitality and entered into the discus- sion with an earnestness that bespeaks the extraor- dinary power of the man. In appearance he reminded me of Gladstone and of Paul Kruger. I should say that his face had some of the characteristics of both — rugged in its outlines and giving an impression of courage and strength combined with great intellect. He replied to Mr. Chamberlain's challenge, "Will you take It lying down?" with the question, "Will you 20 UNDER OTHER FLAGS hide behind a wall?" He denied that it was necessary for the Briton to build a barricade and conceal him- self behind it. In reply to the argument that the Englishman needed protection from the foreigner, he gave statis- tics to show that Germany, one of the protected coun- tries to which Mr. Chamberlain constantly refers, had an increasing number of the unemployed. His ref- erence to the increased consumption of horse meat in Germany and the decrease in the consumption of oth- er kinds of meat met with a response that seems like- ly to make "No horse meat" a slogan in the cam- paign. The last meeting which 1 attended ^vas that at which Lord Rosebery made hTs reply to Mr. Chamber- lain. Lord Rosebery meets Mr. Chamberlain on an equal footing. He is about the same height, but a tri- fle stouter. He is an orator of great distinction, grace* ful, polished, of wide learning and great experience, and he possesses a wit that enables him to keep his audience in constant good humor. He has been prime minister and enjoys great popularity. His reception at the Surrey theatre, South London, was as cordial as Mr. Chamberlain's reception at Cardiff. With all the arts of the orator he repelled the attacks of Mr. Chamberlain and arraigned the policy of the conser- vatives. He denied that there was any excuse, to use his words, for the "lamentations of the modern Jere- miah," His lordship declared that the country had made great progress under the policy of free com- merce with the world and that England had the TARIFF DEBATE IN ENGLAND 21 tvorld for her granary and depicted the possible con- sequences if she attempted to wage war against those who furnished her bread and meat. He declared that the colonies could not supply the food that the people of England needed, but called Mr. Chamberlain's attention to the fact that Canada was "dumping" more iron into England than any of the protected countries complained of. He arraigned the conservative government's large and increasing expenditures and suggested that the government might better lessen the taxes upon the people than impose new taxes upon their food and clothing. He closed with an appeal for more technical in- struction; for a better understanding of the needs of their customers, and for a more earnest effort for the physical, intellectual and moral advancement of the people. I will not attempt to predict the outcome of this fiscal controversy. I have missed my guess on a similar controversy in the United States and I shall not venture a prophecy in a foreign land. Mr. Cham- berlain's opponents believe that a return to protection would be taken as renunciation of England's ambi- tion to be "mistress of the seas," and that it would presage commercial isolation. It is a battle of giants over a great question and all the world interested in the result. Ireland and Her Leaders. November 29 was spent in Dublin, the 30th at Belfast and enroute to that city from Dublin. Dublin is a very substantial looking city and much more an- cient in appearance than Belfast, the latter reminding one more of an enterprising American city. We did not have a chance to visit any of the industries of Dub- lin, and only a linen factory and a shipyard in Bel- fast, but as the linen factory, the York Street Linen Mills, was one of the largest in Ireland, and the ship- yard, Harland & Wolff's, the largest in tTie world, they gave some idea of the industrial possibilities of the island. The lord mayor of Belfast, Sir Daniel Dixon, gave us a history of the municipal undertakings and extended to us every possible courtesy. To one ac- customed to the farms of the Mississippi and the Mis- souri valleys, the little farms of Ireland seemed con- tracted indeed, but what they lack in size, they make up in thoroughness of cultivation. Not a foot seemed to be wasted. At Birmingham I saw some Kerry cows, which I can best describe as pony cattle, that they told me were being bred in Ireland in preference to the larger breeds ; they are certainly more in keeping with the size of the farms. The farm houses are not large, but from the railroad train they looked neat and well kept. 22 IRELAND AND HER LEADERS 23 My visit to Ireland was too brief to enable me to look into the condition of the tenants in the various parts of the island, but by the courtesy of the lord mayor of Dublin, Mr, Timothy Harrington, and Mr. John Dillon, both members of parliament, I met a number of the prominent representatives of Ireland in national politics. A luncheon at the Mansion House was attended by some 75 of the Irish leaders, includ- ing Archbishop Walsh, John Redmond, John Dillon, Michael Davitt, William Field, Patrick O'Brien, sev- eral members of the city council, ex-Mayor Valentine Dillon, High Sheriff Thomas Powers, and Drs. Mc- Ardle and Cox, and other persons distinguished in various walks of life. The dinner at Mr. Dillon's gave me a chance to meet Mr. Bailey of the new land commission and Mr. Finucane, lately connected with the Indian depart- ment, and to become better acquainted with the more prominent of the Irish leaders whose names have be- come familiar to American readers, and whom I met at luncheon. Archbishop Walsh is one of the best known and most beloved of the Irish clergy, and he endeared himself to the friends of bimetallism throughout the world by the pamphlet which he wrote some years ago setting forth the effect of the gold standard upon the Irish tenant farmer. It was a genuine pleasure to make his personal acquaintance. It may be added, in passing, that the tenants of Ireland will be more than ever interested in the stable dollar when they have secured title to their lands and assumed the pay- 14 UNDER OTHER FLAGS merits which extend over more than sixty years. Any increase in the value of the dollar would increase the burden of these payments by lessening the price which they would obtain for the products of the soil. Mr. John Redmond is the leader of the Irish par- ty in parliament, and having visited the United States, is personally known to many of our people. He has the appearance of a well-to-do lawyer, is quick to catch a point, ready of speech and immensely popular with his people. He has the reputation of being one of the most forcible of the Irish orators, and I regret that I had no opportunity of hearing him speak. Mr. Dillon is a tall man, probably six feet one, with a scholarly face and wears a beard. His long experience in parliament, his thorough knowledge of the issues of the last quarter of a century, and his fidelity to the interests of the people of his land have given him a deservedly high place among the great Irishmen of the present generation. Mr. Michael Davitt has also had a conspicuous career, but is not now in parliament, having resigned as a protest against the Boer war. He is the oldest of the group and shows in his countenance the fight- ing qualities that have made his name known through- out the world. He is not a diplomat — he has not learned the language of the court. He is not a com- promiser, but a combatant, and his blows have been telling ones. The lord mayor of Dublin, Mr. Timothy Har- rington, has been honored with a third election as lord mayor, a position first held by 'Daniel O'Connell, IRELAND AND HER LEADERS 26 but he is always at Westminster whenever there is an important vote in parliament. He is a typical Irish- man, good-natured, full of humor, well informed and a natural politician. At a dinner given a few days later at the Nation- al Liberal club in London by Mr. T. P. O'Connor, I met several other Irish members, among them Mr. William Redmond, brother of the leader of the Irish party, and himself a man of great ability and long parliamentary experience, and James Devlin, one of the most brilliant of the orators of the younger gener- ation. The oldest person at the O'Connor dinner was Mr. O'Brien, the last Irishman who enjoyed the dis- tinction of being sentenced to be hung, drawn and quartered. The host, Mr. O'Connor, while he rep- resents a Liverpool constituency and is not, therefore, technically speaking, a member of the Irish party, is one of the most prominent and influential of the Irish- men in the house of commons. He has lectured in the Uni'Led States as well as in Europe, and is now editor of tvv^o weekly papers of large circulation. He showed his friendliness toward America and his appreciation of our country's resources by taking unto himself an American wife — a beautiful Texan. At Glasgow I met another member of parlia- ment, Mr. William McKillup, who, though a citizen of Glasgow represents an Irish district and takes an active interest in everything that afifects the Emerald isle. Mr. Harrington and Mr. Redmond took me to the Dublin cemetery and we visited the graves of 26 UNDER OTHER FLAGS O'Connell and Parnell. The tomb of Ireland's great agitator is under a massive pile of granite, made to represent an old Irish tower. No monument has yet been erected to Parnell. The memory of the two dead statesmen and the presence of the living leaders recalled the struggle to which so many of Ireland's sons have devoted their lives, and it was a matter of extreme gratification to find that substantial progress is being made. It is true that home rule has not yet been secured, but the contest for home rule has focused attention upon the industrial and political condition of Erin, and a number of remedial measures have been adopted. First, the tenant was given title to his improvements and then the amount of the rent was judicially deter- mined. More recently the authorities have been build- in cottages for the rural laborers. Over 15,000 of these cottages have been already erected and arrangements are being made for some 19,000 more. These are much more comfortable than the former dwellings, and much safer from a sanitary point of view. The recent land purchase act, which went into effect on Novem- ber 1, seems likely to exert a very great influence upon the condition of the people. According to its terms the government is to buy the land of the landlord and sell it to the tenants. As the government can borrow money at a lower rate than the ordinary borrower, it is able to give the tenant much better terms than he gets from his present landlord, and at the same time purchase the land of the landlord at a price that is equitable. The landlords are showing a disposition to IRELAND AND HER LEADERS 27 comply with the spirit of the law, although some of them are attempting to get a larger price for their land than it was worth prior to the passage of the law. The purpose of the law is to remove from poli- tics the landlord question, which has been a delicate one to deal with. Most of the larger estates were given to the ancestors of the present holders and many of the owners live in England and collect their rents through a local agent. The new law makes the gov- ernment the landlord and the tenant, by paying a cer- tain annual sum for 63 years, becomes the owner of the fee. He has the privilege of paying all or any part, at any time, and can dispose of his interest. The settlement which is now being effected, not only re- moves the friction which has existed between the ten- ant and the landlord, but puts the tenant in a position where he can appeal to the government with reas- onable certainty of redress in case unforeseen circum- stances make his lot harder than at present anticipat- ed. The assurance that he will become the owner of the fee will give to the Irish farmer an ambition that has heretofore been wanting, for he will be able to save without fear of an increase in the rent. Not only is the land question in process of settlement, but there have been at the same time other improvements which make for the permanent progress of the people. There is a constant increase in educational facilities, and a large number of co-operative banks have been estab- lished. Agricultural societies have been formed for the improvement of crops and stock, and the trend is dictinctly upward. The Irish leaders have not ob- 28 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Itained all that they labored for — there is much to be jsecured before their work is complete, but when the Ihistory of Ireland is written, the leaders now living will be able to regard with justifiable pride the results of their devotion and sacrifice and their names will be added to the long list of Irish patriots and statesmen. In Dublin I paid my respects to Lord Dudley, lieutenant governor of Ireland, whose residence, the Viceregal Lodge, is in Phoenix Park, and found him so genial and affable a host that I am led to hope that in his administration of the executive branch of the government he will make the same attempt at just treatment that parliament has made in the enactment of the recent land measure. There is a general desire among the leaders of thought in Ireland to check the emigration from that country. They feel that Ireland under fair conditions can support a much larger population than she now has. Ireland, they say, has been drained of many of its most enterprising and vigorous sons and daugh- ters. It is hardly probable that the steps already taken will entirely check the movement toward the United States, but there is no doubt that the inhabitants of Ireland and their friends across the water contemplate the future with brighter hopes and anticipations than they have for a century. Growth of Municipal Ownership. Carved in the mantle of the library which ad- joins the reception room of the lord provost of Glas- gow is the motto, "Truth will prevail," and the tri- umph of truth is illustrated in the development oi municipal ownership in the British Isles. Probably no city in the world has extended the sphere of municipal activity further than the metro- polis of Scotland — Glasgow. By the courtesy of the present lord provost. Sir James Ure Primrose, I learned something of the manner in which the city of Glasgow is administering the work that in most of our American cities have been left to private corpora- tons. It goes without saying that Glasgow owns and operates its water system, for that is usually the first public work that a city enters upon. In this case, however, the water instead of being furnished to the citizens at so much per thousand gallons or at fixed hydrant rates, is paid for by a tax upon the value of the property. The city's water supply is brought from Lake Katrine, forty miles away, and the ci«ty has re- cently laid a second pipe line to the lake. Glasgow also owns the gas plant and furnishes gas to consumers at about 50 cents per thousand cubic feet. More recently the city has entered upon the work of supplying electricity both to the city and to private houses. The tramways, too, are owned and 29 -30 UNDER OTHER FLAGS operated by the municipality. The service is excel- lent and the fare depends upon the distance traveled, 2d (4 cents) being the rate for a long ride and Id (2 cents) for shorter distances. At certain hours in the day there are work trams that carry the laboring -man from one end of the city to the other for ^d or 1 cent. The lord provost informed me that it was the settled policy of the city to use all the income from public service corporations in improving the ser- vice and lessening the charge. In some places the surplus, as will be shown hereafter, is turned into the city fund and to that extent lessens the taxes (or rates as city taxes are called in Great Britain). The muni- cipal authorities in Glasgow have from the begin^iing opposed this form of indirect taxation and insisted that the service should be rendered to the public at absolute cost, leaving the people to support the city government by direct taxation. Not only does Glasgow furnish water, gas, electric- ity and street car service to its people at cost, but it has undertaken other work still further in advance of American cities. It has built a number of model tene- ment houses for the poor and rents them at something less than the rate private individuals charge for similar quarters. These buildings have had for their primary object the improvement of the sanitary condition of the city. Slums in which disease was rife have been bought, cleansed and built up with the result that the death rate has been reduced in those localities. These tenement houses are rented by the week or month and the charge for those that I visited was about $36 per MUNICIPAL OWNERSHIP 31 year, this covering taxes and water. The rooms are commodious and well lighted and each suite contains a cooking range fitted into the chimney place. The city has also established a number of lodg- ing houses for single men and here lodgings can be obtained ranging from 3 l-2d (7 cents) to 4 l-2d (9 cents) per night. The lodger has the privilege and most of them take advantage of it, of cooking his meals in a large kitchen connected with the building, and also has the use of the dining room and reading room. One lodging house is set apart for widowers with children and is, I am informed, the only one of its kind in the world. About one hundred families, including in all 300 persons, have rooms here. At- tendants are on duty to look after the children during the day, while the fathers are at work and meals are furnished to such as desire them at a minimum rate. The reading public is already familiar with the public baths which have for a number of years been in operation in Glasgow, and to these baths have been added public wash houses where women can bring the Family linen and at the rate of 2d per hour make use of the tubs and drying room. I visited one of these wash-rooms and found that the number of people tak- ing advantage of it during the first year was, in round numbers 33,000, in the second year 34,000, in the third year 35,000, and in the fourth year 37,000. London is also making progress in the work of municipalizing its public service. The city proper covers a very small territory, in fact, but a mile square, the greater part of the city being under the control 52 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Df what is called the London county council. The Lon- don city council has recently obtained from parliament the right to deal with the water problem and a com- mission has been created for this purpose and is now at work appraising the value of the different water companies which are to be taken over by the said council. The enormous price demanded by these com- panies gives overwhelming proof of London's folly in having so long delayed the undertaking of this public work. As there are no surface street cars in the city of London, the city council has not had the tram- way question to deal with. The London county council has moved much more rapidly than the city council, and I am indebted to Mr. John Burns, M. P., also councilman for the district of Battersea, for much valuable information on this subject. He and Mr. A. J. Shepheard, with whom I crossed the ocean, be- ing kind enough to introduce me to the members of the county council and to place before me the statis- tics in possession of the officials. The county council besides taking over the water service is also furnish- ing to some extent electricity. Just now the county council is putting down tramways and pre- paring to follow in the footsteps of Glasgow in the matter of furnishing transit for its citizens. Like Glasgow, the county council is also furnishing lodg- ing houses for the poorer classes and by so doing is improving the sanitary conditions of the city. In some portions the council is erecting tenement houses, here as in Glasgow the council selecting the worst portions of the city and substituting modern and well- equipped houses for the unsightly and unhealthy tene- MUNICIPAL OWNERSHIP 33 ment houses that formerly occupied the ground. Mr. Burns took me through one of these sections where about four thousand people are being provided with homes with every modern improvement and at very low rental. Finding that the death rate among the children of the poor was alarmingly great, the county council established a sterilized milk station and the death rate among the children has been very mate- rially decreased. Nottingham, England, was visited on the invita- tion of Mr. A. W. Black, until recently mayor. I be- came acquainted with him on the passage across the Atlantic, and found that he had interested himself in the work of extending the municipal control of public utilities. From him and the town clerk. Sir Samuel Johnson, I learned that the city had been furnishing water to its citizens for about thirty years and gas for a still longer time. The price of gas has been re- duced from time to time until it is now about 50 cents per thousand for private citizens, and even at this low rate the gas plant pays into the city treasury a net profit of about $120,000 a year. It is only about five years since the city entered upon the work of furnish- ing electricity, but the profit from that source is now nearly $45,000 annually. The city has recently taken over the tramways and notwithstanding that it has raised the wages of the employes, shortened their hours of labor, improved the service, extended the lines and reduced the fares, it has now derived about $90,000 profit from the earnings of the tramways. This has been the rule wherever private services have been 34 UNDER OTHER FLAGS undertaken by the municipalities. Nottingham has a population of about 350,000. I have taken these cities as an illustration, they being the ones concerning which I have investigated most carefully. Birmingham furnishes water and light to its people, and has just decided to take charge of the tramway service. It already owns the tracks, but has been allowing private corporations to run the cars. The people have decided to operate the lines in the future. In Belfast, I found that the city had decided to take charge of the tramway tracks, the only disputed question being whether the city would pledge itself to the permanent operation of the lines or reserve the right to permit private corporations to use the tracks. Nothing has impressed me more in my visit to the British Isles than the interest which the leading citi- zens of the various municipalities are taking in pro- blems of government and sociology. It nmst be re- membered that here the members of the city councils receive no pay. The work that they do is entirely gratuitous, and I have found that the coimcils are composed of representatives of all classes of society. Many of the successful business men, profession- al men and educators are to be found devt)ting a por- tion of their time, sometimes a very considerable por- tion to the work of the city. They attend meetings, serve on committees and carry on investigations, and find their recompense not in a salary, but in the honor MUNICIPAL OWNERSHIP 35 which attaches to the position and in the consnons- ness that they are giving something of value to their fellows. The fact that English cities are doing the work that in American cities is largely let out to private corporations may explain the relative absence of cor- ruption as compared with some of our American cities, but there is no doubt that among the people generally service in the city government is more highly re- garded than it is in most the large cities of the United States. I observed with interest the enthusiasm manifest- ed by the officials in the work being done by the re- spective cities. At Birmingham, Mr. Roland H. Barkley, a member of the city council, by request of the lord mayor, called upon me, and not only showed great familiarity with the work of the city govern- ment, but manifested an intense desire to secure for his city the methods that had been shown by exper- ience to be the best. Mr. Black, recently mayor of Mottingham, is a very successful lace manufacturer, and yet he seemed as much concerned about the affairs of the city as about the details of his own business Lord Mayor Harrington of Dublin, Lord Mayor Dixon of Belfast and Lord Provost Primrcjse of Glasgow, were all alive to the importance of their work, -Hrul seemed to make the discharge of their duties their chief con- cern. In this connection, I desire to record my ap- preciation of the public service ot one ot the most 36 UNDER OTHER FLAGS interesting and agreeable men whom 1 have met m the Old World, Mr. John Burns. He began his in- dustrial life at the age of ten as a maker of candles. He was afterwards apprenticed as a machinist, and after acquiring proficiency in his trade followed that line of employment until his associates made him their representative in the city government. He was soon afterwards sent to parliament, and has for some fif- teen years represented his district in both bodies. He is only 45, but his hair and beard are so streaked with gray that one would think him ten years older. He is a little below medium height, strongly built, and very active and energetic. A diligent student, quick- witted and effective in speech, it is not surprising that he stands today among the world's foremost represen- tatives of the wage-earners. He is opposed to both drinking and gambling. He receives no salary either as a member of the county council or as a member of parliament, but is supported by his association which pays him what is equivalent to a thousand dollars a year. With this very meagre income he devotes his life to public work, and I have not met a more con- scientious or unselfish public servant. And yet what Mr. Burns is doing on a large scale, many others art doing in a lesser degree. I wish that all the citizens of my country could come into contact with the public men whom 1 have met, and catch something of the earnestness with which they are applying themselves to the solution of the municipal problems that press upon the present generation. It would certainly increase the velocity MUNICIPAL OWNERSHIP 37 of Americar reforms, and arouse that latent patriot- ism which only needs arousing to cope successfully iWith all difficulties. While it may seem that the leaders of municipal government in Europe are somewhat altruistic in their labors, there is a broader sense in which they are quite selfish, but it is that laudable selfishness which mani- fests itself in one's desire to lift himself up, not by dragging down others or doing injustice to others, but by lifting up the level upon which all stand. Those who add to the comfort and happiness of their com- munity are making their own lives and property more secure. Those who are endeavoring to infuse hope and ambition into the hearts of the hopeless and their children — are working more wisely than those who are so short-sighted as to believe that the accumulation of money is the only object of life. Let us hope that the time is near at hand when the successful business men in the United States, in- stead of continuing their accumulations to the very end of life, will be satisfied with a competency and when this is secured give to their country the benefit of their experience, their intelligence and their con- science, as many of the business men of England, Scotland and Ireland are now doing. France and Her People. My call upon President Loubet was the most in- teresting incident of my visit to France. It was ar- ranged by General Horace Porter, American ambassa- dor to France, who conducted us to lh^ Elysee pal- ace, which is the White house of the French republic, President Loubet is probably the most demo- cratic executive that Frane has ever had. He re- minded me of our former President Benjamin Harri- son and of another of our distinguished citizens, An- drew Carnegie — not exactly like either, but resem- bling both — the former in appearance, the latter in manner as well as appearance. President Loubet is below the medium height, even of Frenchmen. His shoulders are broad and his frame indicative of great physical strength. His hair is snow white, as are also his beard and mus- tache. He wears his beard cut square at the chin. His eyes are dark blue, suggesting that his hair and beard were blond before the years bleached them. His voice is soft, and he speaks with great vivacity, emphasizing his words by expressive gestures. He received us in his working room, a beautiful semi-oval apartment, whose large windows open into the beautiful gardens attached to the Elysee palace. The oval end of the room bore great priceless Gobelin tapestry, depicting abundance. On a pedestal under if. FRANCE AND HER PEOPLE 39 the tapestry was a marble bust of the Minerva-like head ol the Goddess of Liberty oi the French repub- lic. The president's desk is a long, flat table, eminent- ly business looking, covered with papers and lighted by twc desk lamps and green shades. A huge electrol- ier dependent from, the frescoed ceiling filled the room with light. The president wore a frock coat, the tri-colored button of the Legion oi Honor adorning the lapel. President Loubet is a very cordial man, and takes pride in the fact that, like most of our American pres- idents, he has worked his way up from the ranks of the common people. His father was a farmer near the vilage of Montelimar. Young Loubet studied law, and then public af- fairs. He has held nearly every office in the gift of the people. He began as mayor of Montelimar, where his aged mother still lives in the old farm- house. He was elected a deputy in 1876, and in 1886 was elected to the senate He was minister of public works in 1887, and minister of the interior in 1892. In 1895 he was elected president of the senate, and in 1899 he was elected president of the republic. He talked freely on various questions that came up for consideration, and showed himself to be thor- oughly informed upon the economic as well as the political questions with which France has to dea). His personal popularity and strong good sense have been of inestimable value to his country in the trying times caused by the Dreyfus case. 40 UNDER OTHER FLAGS President Loubet has been prominently connected with the bimetallic movement, and shows himself :a- .-niliar with the principles upon which bimetallists rely in their defense of that system of finance. The president, like all the Frenchmen whom. I .net, feels very friendly toward the United States, and it goes without saying that France under his admin- istration is not likely to do anything at which our country can take just offense. It was gratifying to me to hear him express so much good will, for it was evidence of the attachment which the French people feel toward those republican principles of government which they have established by so much struggle and sacrifice. Municipal ownership has not made as much progress in France as in England, although most of the cities now own their water works, and some of rhem their lighting plants. The railroads are nearly all owned by private corporations, but they operate ■inder charters running about 100 years, half of which time has now elapsed. According to the charters, the government guar- anteed a certain rate of interest on the investment, besides a certain contribution to the sinking fund, and It the end of the charter the roads become the proper- ty of the state. Although it is nearly fifty years before the chart- ers expire, the course to be adopted by the govern- ment is already being discussed some insisting that the government should take over the roads and oper- ate them — others favoring an arrangement that will FRANCE AND HER PEOPLE tl continue private operation, although the government will be owner of the property. The same difference oi opinion to be found in our own country is to be found here, and some of the high officials are strongly op- posed to the government entering upon the operation of the roads. President Loubet spoke with evident gratification of the general diffusion of wealth in France. He said that they had few men of large fortunes, but a great many men of moderate means, and he felt that the republic was to be congratulated upon the fact that the resources of the country are so largely in the hands of the people. He explained that the government loans were taken by the people in small sums and subscribed many times over. Very few of the bonds represent- ing the French debt are held outside of France. The debt furnishes a sort of savings bank for the citizens, and their eagerness to invest in "rentes" (the govern- ment bonds) is proof of their patriotism as well as of their thrift. I heard so much of the French peasant that I de- voted one day to a visit into the country. Going out some fifty miles from Paris I found a village of about eighty families. Selecting a representative peasant, I questioned him about the present condition and pros- pects of the French farmer. I found that about three- fourths of the peasants of that village owned their homes, but that only about one-fourth owned the farms they tilled. I should explain that the French peasants do not 42 UNDER OTHER FLAGS as a rule live upon the farms, as is the custom in the United States. With us, whether a farmer owns for- ty acres or a quarter section, he usually lives upon the land, and the houses are therefore scattered at inter- vals over the country. The French peasants, on the contrary, are inclined to gather in villages most of them owning their houses and gardens, but going out into the country to culti- vate their fields. Sometimes a peasant will have a vineyard in one direction from his home, a pasture in another and a wheat or beet field in yet another di- rection. These fields are sometimes owned, but more often are rented. The landlord aims to get about 4 per cent annually on his investment. The tenant, however, pays the taxes, which sometimes amount to 1 or 2 per cent more. The peasants complain that the horses which they need to cultivate their crops are made more ex- pensive by the increased consumption of horse-flesh as food, the demand having raised the price of horses. The same cause has operated, so I was informed, to reduce the price of cattle. The widespread use of automobiles has lessened the price of straw in Paris, and this has been felt by the wheat growers. I found the peasant with whom I talked to be an ardent protectionist. He spoke as if the farmers were driven to it as a last resort. As I was leaving he as- sured me that he was glad to speak to a "republican" and said he would not have talked to me at all if I had not been one. FRANCE AND HER PEOPLE 43 This was an evidence of his loyalty to the exist- ing regime in France and also gave additional proof of the fact that the republican party in the United States has an advantage in appealing to newly-arri- ed immigrants merely by reason of its name. Foreigners are much better acquainted w^ith the word "republic" than with the word "democracy," and I find that republican speakers have taken advan- tage of this fact and represented the republican party as the only exponent of the doctrines of a republic. The New York Independent about a year ago printed the autobiography of a foreign born citizen, who presented the same idea and told of a republican speech in which this argument was made by the ora- tor. The birth rate in France scarcely exceeds the death rate, and to my surprise I found that the increase in the country was even less than in Paris, in propor- tion to the population. One Frenchman, apparently well informed, told me that there were small villages in which it was difficult to find a child. In the village which I visited I was told that the families average two or three children. To show, however, that the small family was not the universal rule, attention was called to one family there in which there were eleven children. The French peasant is a very industrious man and cultivates his land with great care, and as soon as he saves a little money he tries to add to the area of his farm. The wife is usually an efficient helper, whether 44 UNDER OTHER FLAGS in the city or in the country. In the city she is often co-partner with her husband in the store, and assists him to save. Whether the tendency of the peasants to gather in villages rather than to live each on his own farm is due to their sociability or is a relic of the feudal system, I cannot say — both reasons were given. The French peasant has reason to feel the bur- den of militarism, but the recollection of the last war with Germany is so fresh in his mind that he is not likely to make any vigorous protest as long as he be- lieves a large army necessary for the protection of the republic. The sentiment of the French people on this sub- ject is shown by the fact that the figure representing Alsace-Lorraine in the group of statues in the beau- tiful Place de la Concorde is always covered with mourning wreaths, I visited the Bank of France, where I was re- ceived by the governor, M. Georges Pallain. The bank's capital stock is about $40,000,000, and it pays a dividend of about 12 per cent, equal to about 4 per cent on the present market value of the stock. The deposits are much smaller in proportion to the capital than are the deposits of our large American banks This is true of the Bank of England, and likewise of the banks of Mexico. This smaller proportion between the deposits and the capital stock arrested my attention because in the United States the proportion is sometimes so great as to leave little margin for shrinkage in the event of FRANCE AND HER PEOPLE 45 industrial disturbance. If a bank has loans amounting to ten times its capital stock a shrinkage of one-tenth in the value of its assets would wipe out the capital. The Bank of France, the Bank of England, and the leading banks of Mexico seem to be conducted on a more conservatif-e basis. The Bank of England and the Bank of France differ largely in their note issues. The former has the right to issue uncovered notes to the extent of the bank's loan to the English government. Upon this loan the bank receives no interest, the note issue being considered an equivalent as no reserve is required to be kept against these notes. The bank can also issue notes in addition to these, but I found to my surprise that this note issue is not profitable to the bank, since these notes are virtually gold certificates, the bank being required to keep on hand an equal amount of gold as a redemption ftmd. The Bank of France has outstanding nearly $900,- 000,000 in notes, which is the paper money of the country. The bank has the option of redeemnig these notes either in gold or silver, and it exercises that option by refusing to pay gold when gold becomes scarce, or when it seems undesirable to furnish gold for export. It has recently refused gold, and those desiring to export that metal have had to purchase it at slight premium. The "gold contract," which has become so com- mon in the United States, and which was used to ter- rorize the public in 1896, seems to be unknown in 46 UNDER OTHER FLAGS France ; or at least I could find no one who knew any- thing about such contracts. They are regarded as contrary to public policy. The president of the Bank of France is appointed by the government, so that the bank stands in a dif- ferent attitude toward the government from the na- tional banks of our country. I had the pleasure of meeting a number of prom- inent Frenchmen during my visit to Paris, among them Senator Combes, the prime minister, who is just now a most conspicuous figure in the contest be- tween the government and the various religious ord- ers ; Senator Clemenceau, one of the ablest editors in Paris, and a brilliant conversationalist; Baron d'Esto- nelles de Constant, a man of high ideals and leader of the peace movement in France ; the Rev. Albert Koh- ler, author of "The Religion of Effort," and the Rev. Charles Wagner, whose book, "The Simple Life," has had such large circulation in the United States. The Rev. Mr. Wagner is just such a lookmg man as you would expect to write such a book — strong, rugged and earnest. He impresses you as a man with a mission, and although young in years he has already made an impress upon the thought of the world. His book is a protest against the materialism which is making man the slave of his possessions. The influence which Mr. Wagner has already ex- erted shows the power of a great thought, even when it must cross the boundaries of nations and pass through translation into many different tongues. I shall remember my communion with this apostle of FRANCE AND HER PEOPLE 47 simplicity as one remembers a visit to a refreshing spring. Dr. Max Nordau, the famous author of "Degener- acy," although a German, lives in Paris. I enjoyed my call upon him very much. One quickly recognizes the alertness of his mind, his brilliant powers of general- ization and his aptness in epigram. I also had the pleasure of meeting Senator Fougeirol, a noted advo- cate of bimetallism. The visitor to Paris is immediately impressed by the magnificence of the city's boulevards, parks and public squares. There is an elegant spaciousness about the boulevards and squares that surpasses any- thing I have seen elsewhere. Parisians assert that the Avenue des Champs Ely- sees is the finest in the world, and so far as my ob- servation goes I am not prepared to dispute the claim. The beauty of Paris deserves all the adjectives that have been lavished upon it. One might dwell at length upon the almost end- less array of brilliant shop windows where jewelry, bric-a-brac, hats, gowns and mantles are displayed (and I am not surprised that Paris is the Mecca for women), but I desire to refer briefly to the more permanent beauty of Paris— the beauty of its architec- ture, sculptures and paintings. Paris' public buildings, ancient and modern, com- bine solidity with beauty. The statutes, columns and arches that adorn the parks and boulevards bespeak the skill of the artists and the appreciation of the pub- lic which pays for their maintenance. 48 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Paris' many picture galleries, chief of which are the Louvre and the Luxembourg, contain, as all the world knows, extraordinary collections of treasures of art. The encouragement given by the government to every form of art has made Paris the abode of stu- dents from the four corners of the earth. The huge palaces at Versailles and Fountaine- bleau are interesting relics of the monarchical period, and they are instructive also, in that they draw a con- trast between the days of the empire and the present time. The extremes of society have been drawn clos- er together by the growth of democracy, and the of- ficials chosen by the people and governing by author- ity of the people are much nearer to the people who pay the taxes and support the government than the kings who lived in gorgeous palaces and claimed to rule by right divine. I have left to the last those reminders of earlier France, which are connected with the reigns of Na- poleon. You cannot visit Paris without being made familiar with the face of the "Little Corsican," for it stares at you from the shop windows and looks down at you from the walls of palaces and galleries. You see the figure of "the man of destiny" in marble and bronze, sometimes on a level with the eye, sometimes piercing the sky, as it does in the Place Vendome, where it is perched on top of a lofty col- umn, whose pedestal and sides are covered with pan- els in relief made from cannon captured by Napoleon in battle. The gigantic Arch of Triumph on the Champs Elysees, commenced by Napoleon, in commemoration FRANCE AND HER PEOPLE 48 of his successes, testifies to the splendor of his con- ceptions. But overshadowing all other Napoleonic monu- ments is his tomb on the banks of the Seine, ad- joining the Invalides. Its gilded dome attracts atten- tion from afar, and on nearer approach one is charmed with the strength of its walls and the symmetry of its proportions. At the door the guard cautions the thoughtless to enter with uncovered head, but the admonition is seldom necessary, for an air of solemnity pervades the place. In the center of the rotunda, beneath the fres- coed vault of the great dome, is a circular crypt. Lean- ing over the heavy marble balustrade I gazed on the massive sarcophagus below, which contains all that was mortal of that marvellous combination of intellect and will. The sarcophagus is made of dark red porphyry, a fitly chosen stone that might have been colored by the mingling of the intoxicating wine of ambition with the blood spilled to satisfy it. Looking down upon the sarcophagus and the stands of tattered battle flags that surround it, I re- viewed the tragic career of this grand master of the art of slaughter, and weighed, as best I could, the claims made for him by his friends. And then I found my- self wondering what the harvest might have been had Napoleon's genius led him along peaceful paths, had the soil of Europe been stirred by the ploughshare 50 UNDER OTHER FLAGS rather than by his trenchant blade, and the reaping done by implements less destructive than his shot and shell. Just beyond and above the entombed emperor stands a cross upon which hangs a life-sized figure of the Christ, flooded by a mellow lemon-colored light, which pours through the stained glass windows of the chapel, I know not whether it was by accident or design that this god of war thus sleeps, as it were, at the very feet of the Prince of Peace. Whether so intended or not, it will to those who accept the teachings of the sermon on the Mount, symbolize love's final victory over force and the tri- umph of that philosophy which finds happiness in helpful service and glory in doing good. The Republic of Switzerland. No wonder Switzerland is free. The beauty of the country inspires a love of native land and the mountains form a natural fortress behind which the Swiss people could withstand armies many times the size of their own. Nowhere can one find as great a variety of landscape in a day's ride by train as in Switzerland. The road from Berne via Chiasso, on the Italian border, to Italy passes along the shores of lakes whose transparent waters reflect the precipit- ous rocks that overhang them ; by mountain streams that dash and foam madly as if anxious to escape from the solitude of the hills into the companionship of the larger waters of lake and sea, across the gorges, around the foothills and through the nine-mile tunnel of St. Gothard that pierces the mountain a mile be- neath the summit, and then down into the valleys that widen out from the base of the Alps. This day's enthralling ride reminds one of a cinematographic film, so quickly do the views change and so different is each from the other. Along the lower levels are tiny farms and vineyards, a little higher up are ter- raced pastures and quaint farm houses, with gabled roofs — often residence and barn are under the same roof! The mountain sides are scarred with the chutes down which the peasants drag timber on the snow. One passes through a great variety of climate in de- scending from the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz, but 51 62 UNDER OTHER FLAGS there one does not see such a succession of picturesque views as greets the eye in the ride across the Alps, One would suppose that the people of Switzerland could find ample employment in supplying tht wants of those who temporarily visit their land, drawn by its imusual attractions for the tourist, but to the industry of hotelkeeping are added two that have made Switz- erland famous throughout the world — watchmaking and wood carving. While watches are manufactured as well and as cheaply in the United States as in Switzerland, this industry is one that makes its pres- ence known in every city of this mountain '■epublic. The genius of the Swiss for wood carving manifests itself in innumerable ways. The cuckoo clock and the bear — the symbol of Switzerland, as the eagle is of the United States — are seen in shop windows every- where; the bear in mnumerable postures, the clock in innumerable sizes. At Berne I found some wooden nut-crackers formed to resemble a head, the lower jaw working as a lever and crushing the nut against the upper jaw. I observed one nut-cracker made to re- semble President Roosevelt, and another former Col- onial Secretary Chamberlain of England. I presume that the manufacturer intended to suggest that these two statesmen have more nuts to crack just now than any other men of political prominence ! More interesting, however, than its scenery or its industries is the government of Switzerland. It is the most democratic government on the face of the earth, if the word democratic is taken to mean the rule of the people, for in Switzerland the people rule more SWITZERLAND. 63 completely than anywhere else. In some of the small cantons the people meet at stated times and act upon political matters in public meeting, recalling the old town hall meeting of New England. In all the can- tons and in the federal government they have the in- itiative and referendum. The latter has been in use since 1874; the former has been adopted more recently. From the courteous assistant secretary of state I learned that during the last twenty-nine years 235 fed- eral laws have been submitted to the people by means of the referendum, of which 210 were adopted and twenty-five rejected. The total voting population of Switzerland is about 768,000, and it requires a petition signed by 30,000 — less than 5 per cent of the voting population — to secure a referendum vote on any bill. Fifty thousand voters can petition for the enactment of any desired law, and when such a petition is filed the federal legislature can either pass the law or refuse to pass it. If it refuses, however, its action must be passed upon by a referendum vote. Since the exist- ence of this provision six petitions have been pre- sented, and in every case the legislature refused to pass the law demanded by the petitioners. In five cases the people at the referendum vote sustained the leislature; in one case the action of the legislature was overruled by the voters. In this instance the people had petitioned for the passage of a law that would prevent the slaughter of animals for food until after they had been rendered insensible. I found that the Swiss people are so pleased with the popular control over government given them by 54 UNDER OTHER FLAGS the initiative and referendum, that there is no possi bility that any party will attempt to attack it, although there are some that would prefer the representative system freed from the restraint which the initiative and referendum give. Their arguments are, first, that the legislators knowing that the people can initiate legislation feel less responsibility ; and, second, that as the legislators' actions can be reviewed by the peo- ple, the legislators are more timid about introducing needed reforms. The friends of the initiative and ref- erendum meet these arguments by declaring that the legislators are really not relieved from responsibility, but on the other hand are incited to action by the fact that the people can act in the event that their inter- ests are neglected by the legislature and that the tim- idity suggested is only likely to prevent legislation when the legislators themselves doubt the merit of the proposed action. By courtesy of the American minister, Mr. Hill, I had the honor of meeting Dr. Adolphe Deucher, "pres- ident of the Swiss confederation," as he is styled. He is of German blood, as his name would indicate, and he is a fine representative of the scholarly, big-hearted Teuton. He is a tall, slender man, of about 60, with a ruddy face, white mustache and scanty white hair. He speaks with frankness and conviction and is as simple in his manners as the humblest of his people. He has been president once before, and has represented his canton in the federal legislature. He lives very unos- tentatiously, as becomes an official whose salary is only $2,750 a year. He receives $250 a year more than SWITZERLAND. 56 his colleagues in the federal council. Switzerland has no executive mansion and the president lives in a modest hotel near the capitol. Three languages are spoken in Switzerland — French, German, Italian. French prevails in the region about Geneva, German in and north of Berne and Italian at the southeast near the Italian border. German is perhaps dominant^ if any one tonoue can be said to dominate, with French and Italian fo!!ov<- ing in the order named. The debates in the federal legislature are conducted in the three tongues, and are reported therein officially. No attempt is made to interfere with the teaching of the language that each of the three communities desires, the cantons being independent in matters of local legislation, just as are the states in our country. There seems to be no jeal- ousy or enmity between the different sections except to the extent of a healthful rivalry between them. The feeling of independence, however, is so strong that no federal government could exist without a clear recog- nition of the rights of the component states or cantons. As a nation, Switzerland with her five million peo- ple does not attract the attention that neighboring na- tions do, and in a contest at arms, except upon her own soil, she could not hope to achieve much, but in that high forum where conscience dictates and where reason rules she is a conspicuous member of the sister- hood of nations. If we believe the world to be making progress toward nobler national ideals, we may expect Sv/itzerland to occupy a position of increasing import- lance, for the love of liberty that cnaracterizes her 56 UNDER OTHER FLAGS people, the democratic character of her institutions and the industry of her citizens all combine to give her assurance of increasing prestige. I cannot refrain here from giving expression to a thought that has grown upon m';; since my arrival in Europe. I found our ambassador to England, Mr.. Choate, preparing to leave his residence in Carl'on House Terrace, London, because of the prospect". e leturn of its owner. Lord Cu-'zon, from India. I learned that our ambassadors to France have oi'rcu found difficulty in finding suliable houses in Paris, while I found that our minister to Switzerlan i,, Air. Hill, is living in Geneva because he has not been able thus far to find a residence in Berne, the capital. I was also informed that our ambassador to Italy, Mr. Meyer, was compelled to live in a hotel in Rome for a year after his appointment, because he was unable to find a suitable house for the embassy. The trials of our diplomatic representatives in Europe, together with the high rents they are compelled to pay for their residences, have convinced me that we as a people are at fault in not providing permanent and appropriate domiciles for our ambassadors and ministers at for- eign capitals. In the great cities of Europe it is not only impossible to rent at a moderate price a house suitable for our embassy, but it is often difficult to secure a convenient location at any price. It is scarcely democratic toplace upon an official an expense so great as to preclude the appointment of a man of moderate means; nor does it comport with the dignity of our nation to make the choice of an ambassadorial or ministerial residence dependent upon chance and SWITZERLAND. 51 circumstance. I have been pleased to observe that our representatives in Europe are conspicuous in the diplomatic circle at court functions because of their modest attire, but it is not necessary that our ambas- sadors' and ministers' homes should be on wheels in order to be democratic. I believe that our govern- ment ought to inaugurate a new^ policy in this matter and build in the chief capitals of foreign nations on land convenient to the foreign offices buildings suit- able in every way for the residences and offices of our diplomatic representatives. Such buildings constructed according to a characteristic American style of archi- tecture and furnished like an American home would not only give to our representative a fixed habitation, but would exhibit to the people of the country to which he is accredited the American manner of living The records of the embassy could be kept more safely in permanent quarters. As real estate in all the capitals of Europe is rapidly rising in value, land purchased now would become a profitable investment and the rent estimated upon the purchase price would be a great deal less than will have to be paid twenty or fifty years from now for a suitable site and buildings conveniently located. It is not wise to confine our diplomatic representation to the circle of the wealthy, and it is much better to furnish our ambassadors and ministers with residences than to increase their salaries. THREE LITTLE KINGDOMS. I shall treat in this article of my visit to three little kingdoms in the north of Europe — Denmark, Belgium and The Netherlands. I passed through the edge of Sweden on my way from Berlin to Copenhagen and was at Malmoe a short time; but, as it was Christmas day and early in the morning, few stores were open, and I did not have an opportunity to see many people. I had intended to visit Stockholm, the capital of Sweden, but a day's delay in Russia deprived me of that pleasure. Copenhagen is not only the capital of Denmark, but its commercial metropolis as well. The city has the air of a seaport. The canal leading from the harbor up to the center of the town was crowded with boats which had taken up their winter quarters and the multitude of masts told of the numbers of those who live upon the ocean. Denmark is a densely populated country composed of the Jutland peninsula and a number of islands. The land is for the most part level and not much above the sea, but the farmers of Denmark have distinguished themselves in several departments of agriculture, especially in butter-making — Danish butter command- ing the highest price in London and other large mar- kets. THREE LITTLE KINGDOMS. 69- Copenhagen has some very substantial buildings and an art gallery in which the works of Thorwaldsen, the sculptor, occupy the chief place. The people of Denmark, while living under an heriditary monarch, have a written constitution, and parliament is the controlling influence in the govern- ment. Until recently, the sovereign insisted upon se- lecting his cabinet ministers to suit himself; but, about three years ago, he yielded to the demand of parlia- ment that the dominant party in that body be per- mitted to furnish the king's advisers. The change has proven so satisfactory that perfect harmony now exists between the royal family and the legislative body. King Christian is advanced in years and is so be- loved by his people that he goes among them without attendants or guards. The heir to the throne of Denmark, Prince Freder- ick upon whom, by the courtesy of the American min- ister, Mr. Swensen, I was able to call on Christma? afternoon, is very democratic in his manner, and very cordial in his friendship for America. If marrying her daughters to crowned heads is a test, the late Queen of Denmark was a very successful mother. One of her daughters is mother of the pres- ent emperor of Russia, another is wife of the present king of England, and a third is married to one of the smaller kings of Germany. A son, it may be added, is king of Greece. I had the pleasure of meeting the prime minister and also Professor Matzen, the president of the state university and Denmark's member of The Hague tri- «0 UNDER OTHER FLAGS bunal. He was one of the leading opponents of th< transfer of the Danish islands to the United States. I learned v^'hile in Denmark that one of the chie; reasons for the opposition to the sale of the Danist islands to the United States was the fact that the United States did not guarantee full citizenship to the inhabitants of those islands. The nation's conduct elsewhere prevented this. Our refusal to give the Porto Ricans, and the Philippines the protection of the constitution, is largely to blame for the loss of the Danish islands to our country. The Danish officials whom I met were deeply in- terested in the United States, and naturally so, for, like Sweden and Norway, Denmark has sent many sons and daughters to the United States ; and these, as have the Swedes and Norwegians, have deported themselves so well as to establish close ties between the mother countries and their adopted land. BELGIUM. Belgium is a busy hive. Its people are crowded to- gether and are very industrious. The farmers and truck gardeners have reduced agriculture to a fine art and the lace w^orkers are famous for their skill. Nowhere did I see man's faithful friend, the dog, utilized as in Belgium, He helps to haul the carts along the streets, and his services are so highly prized that large dogs are untaxed, while the small house dog, being an idler, has to contribute his annual quota to the expenses of the government. The elegance of some of the public buildings and the beauty of the streets of Brussels surprise one if he has allowed himself to judge Belgium by her di- mensions on the map. Historical interest, however, is centered, not in Brussels, but in the battlefield of Waterloo, some miles away. In the summer time, thousands of tourists (among whom according to the guides are but few Frenchmen) turn their steps to- ward this field which witnessed the overthrow of the greatest military genius of his generation, if not of all time. The scene of carnage is now marked by an enorm- ous artificial mound 130 feet in height and surmounted by an immense stone lion — the Lion of Waterloo. The animal looks toward the point from which Napoleon made his last charge and seems to be watching lost the attack may be renewed, Wellington upon visiting 61 e2 UNDER OTHER FLAGS the battlefield after the erection of this mound, is said to have complained that they had ruined the battle- field to secure dirt for this stupedous pile ; and it is true that the surface of the earth in that vicinity has been very much altered. In leveling the knolls they have destroyed one of the most interesting land-marks of the battlefield — the sunken road in which so many of the French soldiers lost their lives. As the guide tells it, Napoleon asked a Belgian peasant if there was any ravine to be crossed between him and the enemy's lines, and the peasant replied in the negative ; but when the French rushed over this knoll, they came suddenly and unexpectedly upon a narrow road in a cut about twenty feet deep, and, falling in, filled up the cut until succeeding ranks crossed over on their dead bodies. The field as a whole might be described as a roll- ing prairie although the visitor is told of groves no longer standing. At the Hugomond farm, the walls of the house bear evidence of the conflict that raged nearly a century ago, and one is shown the ruins of an old well in which, it is said, the bodies of 300 English soldiers were buried. This portion of the battlefield reminds one somewhat of that portion of the battle- field of Gettysburg which was made famous by Pick- ett's charge, although there are but few monuments at Waterloo to mark the places occupied by the various brigades and divisions. At a restaurant near the mound one is shown the chair in which, according to tradition, Wellington sat when he was laying his plans for the last day's bat- THREE LITTLE KINGDOMS. 63 tie, and you can, for a franc each, secure bullets war- ranted to have been found upon the field. It is rum- ored, however, that some of the bullets now found are of modern make and that thrifty peasants sow them as they do grain, and gather them for the benefit of tourists. I found Europe agitated by a remark recently made by the emperor of Germany which gave the Prussian troops credit for saving the English and win- ning the day, but the French are as quick to dispute this claim as the English. The comedians have taken the matter up in the British Isles and, at one London theatre, an actor dressed as an Englishman, is made to meet a German and, after an exchange of compli- ments, the Englishman brings down the house by saying: "I beg pardon! It may be a little late, but let me thank you for saving us at Waterloo." It is hardly worth while for the allies to quarrel over the division of credit. There was glory enough for all— and it required the co-operation of all to over- come the genius and the strategy of Bonaparte. THE NETHERLANDS. Between Waterloo, one of the world's most re- nowned battle-fields, and The Hague, which is to be the home of the Temple of Peace — what a contrast ; and yet Belgium and The Netherlands lie side by side ! Perhaps the contrast is chronological rather than geographical or racial, for the Dutch have had their share of fighting on their own soil, as they had their part in the victory qf 1815. It seems especially appropriate that The Hague should be chosen as the permanent meeting place of the peace tribunal, for it is not only centrally located for European countries, and, being small, is not itself tempted to appeal to arms, but it has long been the home of religious lib- erty, and its people were pioneers in the defense of the doctrine that rulers exist for the people, not the peo- ple for the rulers. The capital of The Netherlands — The Hague— (the name is taken from the forest that adjoins) is a beautiful little city and will furnish an appropriate setting for the building which Mr. Carnegie's gener- osity is to provide. Plans are already being prepared for this structure, and one of the officials showed me a picture representing Peace which may be repro- duced upon the ceiling or walls. In the gallery at Moscow I saw a painting by the §:reat Russian artist. Verechiagin. It is a pyramid of THREE LITTLE KINGrOMS 65 whitened skulls standing out against a dark back- ground, and is dedicated to "The Warriors of the World." It tells the whole story of war in so sohemn, impressive, and terrible a way that Von Moltke is said to have issued an order prohibiting GermaH offi- cers from looking at it when it was exhibited at Berlin. The emperor of Russia, who has the distinction and the honor of having called together the conference which resulted in The Hague tribunal, might with great propriety contribute to the Temple of Peace this masterpiece of one of his countrymen, portraying so vividly the evils which arbitration is intended to remedy. One of the members of the arbitration court told me that it was both interesting and instructive to note how the nations appearing before that court empha- sized, not so much their pecuniary claims, as the hon- or of their respective nations and the justice of their acts. No one can foresee or foretell how great an influ- ence The Hague tribunal will have upon the world's affairs, but it would seem difficult to exaggerate it. It is cultivating a public opinion which will in time coerce the nations into substituting arbitration for vio- lence in the settlement of international disputes ; and it ought to be a matter of gratification to every Amer- ican that our country is taking so active a part in the forwarding of the movement. But The Hague is not the only place of interest in The Netherlands. The land replevined from the sea by the sturdy Dutch and protected by dykes, the Q6 UNDER OTHER FLAGS spot immortalized by the temporary sojourn of the Pilgrims, the familiar blue china, the huge wind mills with their deliberate movements, the wooden shoes, and the numerous waterways — all these attract the at- tention of the tourist. And the commercial metropolis of Holland, Am- sterdam—what a quaint old city it is! Its more than 300 canals roaming their way through the city, and its hundreds of bridges, have given to it the name of "The Northern Venice," and it well deserves the ap- pellation. The houses are built on piles, and as many of them are settling, they lean in every direction, some out toward the street, some back, and some toward the side. The houses are so dependent upon each other for their support that it is a common saying in that city that if you want to injure your neighbor, you have only to pull down your own house. Amsterdam is the center of the diamond cutting industry of the world, more than 10,000 hands being employed in that work. As is well known, the Dutch are a rich people, and their commerce, like their mort- gages, can be found everywhere. They have a constitutional monarchy, but they have universal education and parliamentary govern- ment, and are jealous of their political rights. Denmark, Belgium and The Netherlands— three little kingdoms ! Small in area, but brimful of people, and these people have their part in the solving of problems with which Europe is now grappling. GERMANY AND SOCIALISM. At Berlin I found, as I had at London and Paris, a considerable number of Americans and, as in the other cities, they have organized a society, the object of which is to bring the American residents together for friendly intercourse. At London the group is known as the American Society ; at Paris and Berlin the so- ciety is known as the American Chamber of Com- merce. Through the receptions given by these socie- ties I was able to meet not only the leading American residents, but many foreigners who came as invited guests. Our American residents are evidently con- ducting themselves well because I found that they are well liked by the people among whom they are temporarily sojourning. I am indebted to Ambassa- dor Tower and to the American Chamber of Com- merce for courtesies extended me at Berlin. My visit to Germany occurred at Christmas time and while it was for that reason impossible to see the kaiser (much to my regret), I learned something of the German method of observing the great Chris- tian holiday. The German is essentially a domestic man and at Christmas time especially gives himself up to the society of the family, relatives and friends.' Christmas coming on Friday, the festivities covered three days, Friday, Saturday and Sunday. The toys — in which Germany abounds — were of endless variety, and the Christmas trees bending beneath their 67 I 68 UNDER OTHER FLAGS load were centers of interest to the young folks. There were dolls and dogs, horses and woolley sheep, cows that give milk, and soldiers — an abundance of soldiers. I saw one cavalryman with a saber in his hand. When he was wound up the horse would rush forward and the rider would strike out with his saber as if he was keeping watch on the Rhine and in the very act of resisting an attack from the enemy. A little strange that the birthday of the Prince of Peace should be celebrated by the presentation of toys illustrating mimic warfare! But as in America we are increasing our army and enlarging our navy we are not in a very good position to take the military mote out of the eye of our friends in the fatherland. Berlin is a splendid city with beautiful streets, parks and public buildings. It is more modern in appearance than either London or Paris and there is a solidity and substantialness about the population that explains the character of the emigration from Germany to America. No one can look upon a gath- ering of average Germans without recognizing that he is in the presence of a strong, intelligent and mas- terful people. Bismarck has left his impress upon Ger- many as Napoleon did upon France. An heroic statue of the man of "blood and iron" stands between the reichstag and the column of Victory, which was erect- ed at the close of the Franco-Prussian war. The reichstag is a massive, but graceful structure, built some twenty years ago. In one of the corridors I no- ticed a silk flag which was presented in the seventies by the German women of America. The reichstag GERMANY. 69 proper is a popular body, much like the English par- liament, and, as in England, the members do not nec- essarily reside in the districts they represent. The up- per house, or bundesrath, is somewhat like our senate in one respect, namely, that it represents the various states that comprise the German empire, but it differs from our senate, first, in that the subdivisions are rep- resented somewhat in proportion to population, and, second, in that the members of the bundesrath are really ambassadors of the several state governments whose credentials can be withdrawn at any time. As all legislation must be concurred in by the bundesrath as well as by the reichstag it will be seen that the German government is not nearly so responsive to the will of the people as the governments of England, Denmark and the Netherlands. In the reichstag they have resorted to a device for saving time in roll call. Each member is supplied with a quantity of tickets, some pink and some white. Each ticket bears on both sides the name of the mem- ber. On the white tickets the word "Ja" (yes) ap- pears under the name, on the pink ones "Nein" (no). These ballots are gathered up in vases containing two receptacles, one white and the other pink. The vases are carried through the hall and the votes deposited according to color. As they are deposited in the different receptacles and are distinguished by color the ballot is quickly taken and counted— in about one- fourth the time, I think, formerly required for roll call. This is a method which our congress might find it convenient to adopt. 70 UNDER OTHER FLAGS It was my good fortune, while in Berlin, to meet Dr. Otto Arendt, the leading bimetallist of Germany. He became a student of the money question while in college, being converted to the double standard by the writings of Cernucshi, the great French economist. Dr. Arendt is a member of the reichstag, from one of the agricultural constituencies. He has represented his government in international conferences and has urged his government to join in an agreement to restore bi- metallism, but like other advocates of the double stan- dard has found the English financiers an immovable obstruction in the way. I have for two reasons reserved for this article some comments on the growth of socialism in Europe. First, because Germany was to be the last of the larger countries visited, and, second, because socialism seems to be growing more rapidly in Germany than anywhere else. I find that nearly all of the European nations have carried collective ownership farther than we have in the United States. In a former article reference has already been made to the growth of municipal ownership in England and Scotland, and I may add that where the private ownership of public utilities is still permitted the regulation of the corpor- ations holding these franchises is generally more strict than in the United States. Let two illustrations suf- fice : Where parliament charters gas and water com- panies in cities it has for some years been the practice to limit the dividends that can be earned — any surplus earnings over and above the dividends allowed must be used in reducing the price paid by the consumer. I GERMANY. 71 fear that our money magnates would be at a loss to find words to express their indignation if any such restriction was suggested in America, and yet is it not a just and reasonable restriction? In the case of railroads, I noticed that there are in England but few grade (or, as they call them, "level") crossings. I am informed that railroad acci- dents and injuries are not so frequent in England as in the United States. In Switzerland the government has recently ac- quired the principal railroad systems. In Holland, Belgium and Denmark also the railroads are largely government roads. In Russia the government owns and operates the roads and I found there a new form of collectivism, namely, the employment of a commun- ity physician who treats the people without charge. These physicians are employed by societies called Zemstro which have control of the roads and the care of the sick. In Germany, however, socialism as an economic theory is being urged by a strong and growing party. In the last general election the socialists polled a lit- tle more than three million votes out of a total of about nine and a half millions. Measured by the popu- lar vote it is now the strongest party in Germany. The fact that with thirty-one per cent of the vote it only has eighty-one members of the reichstag out of a to- tal of 397 is due, in part, to the fact that the social- ist vote is massed in the cities and in part to the fact that the population has increased more rapidly in the 72 UNDER OTHER FLAGS cities and as there has been no recent redistricting the socialist city districts are larger than the districts re- turning members of other parties. George von Vollmar, a member of the reichstag, in a recent issue of the National Review thus states the general purpose of the social democratic party in Germany: "It is well known that social democracy in all countries, as its name indicates, aims in the first place at social and economic reform. It starts from the point of view that economic development, the substitu- tion of machinery for hand implements, and the sup- planting of small factories by gigantic industrial com- binations, deprive the worker in an ever-increasing de- gree of the essential means of production, thereby con- verting him into a possessionless proletarian, and that the means of production are becoming the exclusive possession of a comparatively small number of capital- ists, who constantly monopolize all the advantages which the gigantic increase in the productive capacity of human effort has brought about. Thus, according to the social democrats, capital is master of all the springs of life, and lays a yoke on the working classes in particular, and the whole population in general, which ever becomes more and more unbearable. The masses, as their insight into the general trend of af- fairs develops, become daily more and more conscious of the contrast between the exploiter and the exploit- ed, and in all countries with an industrial development society is divided into two hostile camps, which wage war on each other with ever increasing bitterness. GERMANY. 73 "To this class-war is due the origin and continu- ous development of social democracy, the chief task of which is to unite these factions in an harmonious whole which they will direct to its true goal. Indus- trial combination on a large scale can be converted from a source of misery and oppression into a source of the greatest prosperity and of harmonious perfec- tion when the means of production cease to be the ex- clusive appanage of capital and are transferred to the hands of society at large. The social revolution here indicated implies the liberation not only of the pro- letariat, but of mankind as a whole, which suffers from the decomposing influence of existing class antagon- ism whereby all social progress is crippled." One of the most influential of the German social- ists in answer to a series of questions submitted by me said in substance : First, the general aim of socialists in Germany is the same as the aim of other socialists throughout the world — namely, the establishment of a collective commonwealth based on democratic equality. Second, the socialists of Germany have organized a liberal party of unrivalled strength ; they have edu- cated the working classes to a very high standard of political intelligence and to a strong sense of their in- dependence and of their social mission, as the living and progressive force in every social respect ; they have promoted the organization of trade unions ; and have by their incessant agitation compelled the other parties and the government to take up social and labor legislation. 74 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Third, German socialists at present are contend- ing for a legal eight-hour day and for the creation of a labor department in the government, with labor offi- cers and labor chambers throughout the country. In addition to these special reforms socialists are urging various constitutional and democratic reforms in the states and municipalities— in the latter housing re- forms, direct employment of labor, etc. Fourth, there may be some difference of opinion among socialists in regard to the competitive system, but being scientific evolutionists they all agree that competition was at one time a great step in advance and acted for generations as a social lever of industrial progress, but they believe that it has many evil con- sequences and that it is now being outgrown by capi- talistic concerns, whose power to oppress has become a real danger to the community. They contend that there is not much competition left with these mono- polies and that, as on the other hand, education and the sense of civic responsibility are visibly growing, and will grow more rapidly when socialism gets hold of the public mind, socialists think that the time is approaching when all monopolies must and can safely be taken over by the state or municipality as the case may be. This would not destroy all competition at once— in industries not centralized some competition might continue to exist. In this respect also all soc- ialists are evolutionists, however they may differ as to ways and means and political methods. Fifth, as to the line between what are called nat- ural monopolies and ordinary industries, the question GERMANY. 75 is partly answered by the preceeding paragraph. There is a general consensus of opinion that natural monop- olies should, in any case, be owned by the community. I find that even in Germany there are degrees among socialists— some like Babel and Singer empha- sizing the ultimate ends of socialism, while others led by Bernstein are what might be called progressionists or opportunists — that is, they are willing to take the best they can get today and from that vantage ground press on to something better. It is certain that the socialists of Germany are securing reforms, but so far they are reforms which have either already been se- cured in other countries or are advocated elsewhere by other parties as well as by the socialist party. The whole question of socialism hangs upon the question: Is competition an evil or a good? If it is an evil then monopolies are right and we have only to decide whether the monopolies should be owned by the state or by private individuals. If, on the other hand, competition is a good then it should be restored where it can be restored. In the case of natural mon- opolies where it is impossible for competition to exist, the government would administer the monopolies not on the ground that competition is undesirable, but on the ground that in such cases it is impossible. Those who believe that the right is sure of ulti- mate triumph will watch the struggle in Germany and profit by the lessons taught. I am inclined to be- lieve that political considerations are so mingled with economic theories that it is difficult as yet to know just what proportion of the three million socialist vot- 76 UNDER OTHER FLAGS ers believe in "the government ownership and opera- tion of all the means of production and distribution." The old age pension act was given as a sop to the socialists, but it strengthened rather than weakened their contentions and their party. It remains to be seen whether the new concessions which they seem likely to secure will still further augment their strength. The Germans are a studious and a thought- ful people and just now they are absorbed in the con- sideration of the aims and methods of the socialist movement (mingled with a greater or less amount of governmental reform), and the world awaits their ver- dict with lieep interest. Russia and Her Czar. The map of Russia makes the other nations o; Europe look insignificant by comparison. Moscow ij called "The Heart of Russia," and yet the trans-Siber- ian railway from Moscow to Vladivostok is aboul 6,000 miles long, nearly one-fourth the circumference of the globe. From St. Petersburg to Sebastopol is more than 2,000 miles, and yet Russia's territory ex- tends much further north than St. Petersburg and much further south than Sebastopol. In a book recently issued by authority of the Russian govern- ment some comparisons are made that give an idea of the immensity of Russia's domain. For instance, Siberia is about one and one-half times as large as Europe, 25 times as large as Germany, and covers one-thirteenth of the continental surface of the globe. Besides having great timber belts and vast prairies, Siberia has a hill and lake region ten times as large as Switzerland, and it is claimed that some of the 'lakes are as beautiful as those of "The Mountain Re- public." Lately the government has been encourag- ing immigration into the country opened up by the trans-Siberian railway and the success of the move- ment is shown by the fact that the number of pas- sengers carried on the western section of the road increased from 160,000 in 1896 to 379,000 in 1898, and on the middle section from 177,000 in 1897 to 476,000 ,in 1898, with a similar increase in freight traffic. The 77 78 UNDER OTHER FLAGS government gives a certain area of land to each set- tler and when necessary advances sufficient money tc build homes and barns for the storage of crops and foi the purchase of agricultural implements. The terri- torial greatness of Russia is the first thing that im- presses the tourist, and the second is that it is as yet so sparsely settled that it can without fear of crowd- ing accommodate a vast increase in population. Russia embraces all varieties of climate and resources. My journey was confined to the northeast portion. I entered the country below Warsaw, went west to Moscow, then north to St. Petersburg and thence southeast to Berlin. This, with the exception of my visit to Tula, gave me my only opportunity to see the people of Russia. They impressed me as being a hardy race and the necessities of climate are such as to compel industry and activity. I never saw else- where such universal preparation for cold weather. As yet Russia is almost entirely agricultural, but manu- facturing enterprises are continually increasing. The peasants live in villages and for the most part hc»ld their lands in common — that is, the lands belong to the commune or village as a whole and not to the individual. When Alexander freed the serfs the land was sold to them jointly on long-time payments. These payments have in only a few instances been complet- ed, wherefore not many of the peasants own land in- dividually. There is just now much discussion in Rus- sia about the method of holding land. Some contend RUSSIA. 79 that communal holding tends to discourage thrift and enterprise, and there is some agitation in favor of in- dividual ownership. Moscow, the largest city of Russia, has a trifle larger population than St. Petersburg, the capital, which has more than a million. Moscow, which is the commercial center of the empire, gives the cas- ual visitor a much better idea of the characteristic life and architecture of Russia than does St. Petersburg. St. Petersburg, however, is laid out upon a broader, more generous plan, has wider streets, more impres- sive public buildings and private residences, and there is more evidence of wealth in the capital than in the commercial center. Both cities possess admirable museums and art galleries. The chief gallery of Mos- cow devotes nearly all its wall space to pictures by Russian artists, and they are sufficient in number to prove Russia's claim to an honorable place in the world of art. The Hermitage at St. Petersburg, which is an annex of the emperor's palace, contains an extraordin- ary number of masterpieces of modern and ancient art. The museum of the academy of sciences pos- sesses a remarkable collection of fine specimens of pre- historic animals, among them mammoths, the largest and best preserved of which was found only a few years ago at the foot of a Siberian glacier. The visitor to Russia comes away with conflict- ing emotions. He is impressed by the wonderful possibilities of the country, but is oppressed by the limitations and restrictions which the government 80 UNDER OTHER FLAGS places upon individual action and activity. As soon as the traveler reaches the border of Russia his pass- port is demanded. It is again demanded the moment he arrives at his hotel, and it is demanded and inspect- ed at every place he stops. When he is about to leave the country he must send his passport to the police office and have it indorsed with official permis- sion to depart. Not only is a passport demanded at every place from the foreigner, but native Russians, high and low, must also bear passports and be pre- pared to submit them for inspection upon demand. Not even officers of the army are exempt from this rigid rule. The censorship over the press and over private mail is very strict. I brought away with me a copy of Stead's Review of Reviews which had been posted to a subscriber in Russia and which had passed through the hands of the censor. Its pages bore abundant evidence of the care with which he scrutin- ized foreign publications, for objectionable cartoons, articles and even paragraphs had been made illegible by an obliterating stamp. The governm.ent of Russia, as the world knows, is an autocracy. All power is vested in the emperor, and all authority emanates from him. Being an auto- cracy, Russia has, of course, no legislative body, such as is now a part of the government of nearly every civilized country on the globe. It has not trial by jury and it knows not the writ of habeas corpus. The custom of exiling or banishing without trial persons obectionable to the government is still practiced. A RUSSIA. 81 large number of Finns, many of them persons of prom- inence, have been deported from Finnland since the decree of 1899, which limited the self-governmnel which the Finns had enjoyed since Russia annexed their country. While in St. Petersburg I was, by the courtesy of the American ambassador, Mr. McCormick, given an opportunity of meeting and chatting with the czar of all the Russias, Emperor Nicholas II. I found him at his winter residence, the palace of Tzarskoje Selo, which is about an hour's ride from St. Petersburg. Of all the emperor's palaces, Tzarskoje Selo is his favorite. It stands in a magnificent park which at this time of year is covered with snow. The emperor is a young man, having been born in 1868. He is not more than five feet seven or eight inches in height and apparently weighs about 160 pounds. His figure is slender and erect, his face boyish and his eyes a light blue. His hair, which is blonde, is cut rather short and combed upward over the forehead. The czar wears a mustache and short beard. The general expression of his face is gentle rather than severe and he speaks English perfectly. He informed me that about 65 per cent of the adult men of Russia can read and write and that the number is increasing at the rate of about 3 per cent a year. This increase, the czar said, was shown by the recruits to the army, and as these come from all provinces of the empire and all classes of society, he believes it to be a fair test of the people as a whole. The czar declared himself deeply interested in the spread of education among 82 UNDER OTHER FLAGS the people and seemed to realize that opportunities for education should be extended to men and women equally. I referred to a decree issued by him about a year ago promising a measure of self-government to the local communities. The czar said : "Yes, that was issued last February, and the plan is now being worked out." He manifested great gratification at the outcome of the proposals submitted by him which resulted in the establishment of The Hague court of arbitration and it is a movement of which he may justly feel proud, for while it is not probable that The Hague tribunal will at once end all wars, it is certain to contribute largely to the growth of a sentiment that will substitute the reign of reason for the rule of brute force. The czar spoke warmly of the friendly relations that had existed for years between Russia and the United States, He said that the people of his country had rejoiced in the growth and greatness of the United States. Then, speaking with considerable feeling, the czar said: "The attitude of Russia in the Kischinef¥ affair has been very much misrepresented by some of the newspapers and I wish you would tell your people so when you return to the United States." The Russian officials deny that the government was in any way responsible for the massacre and I was informed that the government had caused the prosecution and secured the imprisonment of many of those implicated. The emperor showed in his con- versation that he respected public opinion in the Unit- ed States and was anxious that his administration should not '•est under condemnation. Jt seems to be RUSSIA. 83 the general opinion of those with whom I had a chance to speak in Russia that the emperor himself is much more progressive and liberal than his official environ- ment. If he were free to act upon his own judgment, it is believed that he would go further and faster than the officeholding class surrounding him in broadening the foundations of government, and from his words and manner during my conversation with him I am inclined to share this opinion. What Russia most needs today are free speech and a free press — free speech that those who have the welfare of the country at heart may give expression to their views and contril^ute their wisdom to that public opinion which in all free countries controls to a greater or less extent those who hold office. To deny freedom of speech is to question the ability of truth to combat error ; it is to doubt the power of right to vindicate itself. A free press would not only enable those in office to see their actions as oth- ers see them, but would exercise a wholesome re- straint. Publicity will often deter an official from wrong-doing when other restraints would be insuf- ficient, and those who are anxious to do well ought to welcome anything that would throw light upon their path. With free speech and a free press it would not be long before the participation of the Rus- sian people in government would be enlarged, and with that enlarged share in the control of their own afifairs would come not only contentment, but the education which responsibility and self-government bring. It is impossible to prepare people for self- 84 UNDER OTHER FLAGS government by depriving them of the exercise of po- litical rights. As children learn to walk by being allowed to fall and rise and fall and rise again, so peo- ple profit by experience and learn from the conse- quences of their mistakes. That the Russian people are devoted to their church is evident everywhere. Every village and town has its churches, and the cities have cathedrals, chapels and shrines seemingly innumerable. St. Isaac's cathedral in St. Petersburg is an immense bas- ilica and is ornamented in nave and transcept with precious and semi-precious stones. The superb por- tico is supported by a maze of granite monoliths seven feet in diameter. There is now in process of construc- tion at Moscow a still more elaborate cathedral. Rus- sia is not a good missionary field for two reasons : First, because the people seem wedded to their church, and, second, because no one is permitted to sever his connection with the church. The child of an orthodox Russian becomes a mem- ber of the church of his parents and if he desires to enter another church he must leave the country. If one of the orthodox church marries a member of an- other church the children must of necessity be reared in the Russian faith. It will be seen, therefore, that the church is very closely connected with the govern- ment itself, and quite as arbitrary. De Tocqueville some fifty years ago predicted a large place for Russia among the nations of Europe and my visit to the great empire of the northeast con- vinced me that Russia with universal education, free- RUSSIA. 85 dom of speech, freedom of the press, freedom of reli- gion and constitutional self-government would exert an influence upon the destinies of the old world to which it would be difficult to set a limit. Rome — The Catholic Capital. The dominant feature of Rome is the relig-ious feature, and it is fitting that it should be so, for here the soil was stained with the blood of those who first harkened to the voice of the Nazarene--here a cruel Nero lighted his garden with human torches, little thinking that the religion of those whom he burned would in time illumine the earth. The fact that the city is the capital of the Catho- lic world is apparent everywhere. All interest is centered in the Vatican and St. Peter's, The civil government of Italy extends to the nation's borders, but the papal authority of Rome reaches to the re- motest corners of the earth. I was anxious to see the man upon whom such vast responsibility rests, and whose words so profoundly influence millions of the human race. Lord Denbigh, of England, had given me a letter of introduction to Cardinal Merry del Val, the papal secretary of state, and armed with this I visited the Vatican. Cardinal del Val is an exceed- ingly interesting man. He was born of Spanish par- ents, but one of his grand-parents was English, and he is connected by ties of blood with several families of the English nobility. He was educated in England, and speaks that language fluently and without an ac- cent, as he does French, German, Italian and Span- ish. His linguistic accomplishments are almost as great as those of the famous Cardinal Mezzofanti. 86 X o m 3 THE CATHOLIC CAPITAL. 87 Cardinal del Val is an unusually young man to occupy such an important post — he is not yet forty. He im- presses one as a man of rare ability and he possesses extraordinary versatility and a diplomatic training that will make him eminently useful to His Holiness. The papal secretary of state is a tall, slender, distin- guished-looking man. His intellectual face is thin and oval ; his eyes are large, dark and brilliant, showing his Spanish birth. He received us in his private apartments in the Vatican. They are among the most interesting of the 1,200 rooms in that great building and were once occupied by that famous pope who was a Borgia. The ceilings and walls down to the floor are painted magnificently, the decoration having been done by the hand of a master artist of Borgia's reign. For centuries the suit now occupied by Cardinal del Val had been part of the Vatican library. The beautiful walls were once hidden by a coat of rude whitewash, but the paintings were discovered not long ago and the pictures restored once more to view. Before visiting the Vatican I called upon Monsig- nor Kennedy, the rector of the American college. Mgr. Kennedy is a learned and an exceedingly agreeable American and under his efficient management the number of students in the college has been doubled within a few years. He enabled me to meet Pope Pius' Maestro di Camera. By the good offices of Car- dinal del Val, and the Maestro di Camera it was ar- ranged that I should have a private audience with the Holy Father the following day, Mgr. Kennedy acting as interpreter. 88 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Pope Pius received us in his private audience loom adjoining the public audience chamber, where distinguished Catholics from all over the world were collected and ready to be presented and receive the papal blessing. The private audience room is a rather small apartment, simply, but beautifully furnished and decorated. A throne bearing the papal crown occu- pied one side of the room. His Holiness greeted us very courteously and cordially. He wore a long white cassock, with a girdle at the waist; the fisher- man's ring was on his finger and he wore a small, closely fitting skull-cap of white. I had an opportun- ity to study his face. It is a round, strong face, full of kindliness and benevolence, but there are not lack- ing indications that its possessor has a purpose and will of his own. The face is ruddy and the nose rath- er long — it is straight and not arched. His eyes are large, blue and friendly. The scant hair visible below the skull-cap is white. In stature the Holy Father is about five feet nine or ten inches and his figure is sturdy, but not too heavy. His step is light and gives an impression of strength and good health. His Holiness has already gained a reputation as a democratic pontiflF and enjoys a large and growing popularity with the people. He is an orator and often on Sunday goes into one of the many court yards of the Vatican and preaches to the crowds that gather quite informally. His gestures are said to be grace- ful and his voice melodious. His manner is earnest and his thoughts are expressed in a clear and emphatic language. There is a feeling in Rome that Pius X. is THE CATHOLIC CAPITAL. 89 going to be known in history as a reformer — not as a reformer of doctrine, but as one who will popularize the church's doctrine with a view to increasing the heartiness and zeal of the masses in the application of religious truth to everyday life. I assured his Holiness that I appreciated the op- portunity that was his to give impetus to the moral forces of the world, and he replied : "I hope my efforts in that direction will be such as to merit commenda- tion." Answering my statement that I called to pre- sent the good will of many Catholic friends as well as to pay my respects, His Holiness asked me to car- ry his benediction back to them. If I may venture an opinion upon such brief ob- servation, it is that heart characteristics will dominate the present pontiff's course. He is not so renowned a scholar and diplomat as was his predecessor, nor is he so skilled in statecraft, but he is a virile, energetic, pratical religious teacher, charitable, abounding in good works and full of brotherly love. I am confident that he will play an important part in the world-wide conflict between man and mammon. The world has made and is making great progress in education and in industry. The percentage of illit- eracy is everywhere steadily decreasing.The standards of art and taste are rising and the forces of nature are being harnessed to do the work of man. Steam, mad- ly escaping from its prison walls, turns myrid wheels and drags our commerce over land and sea, while electricity, more fleet of foot than Mercury, has be- come the message-bearer of millions. Even the waves 90 UNDER OTHER FLAGS of the air are now obedient to the command of man and intelligence is flashed across the ocean without the aid of wires. With this dominion over nature man has been able to advance his physical well-being as well as to enlarge his mental horizon, but has the moral development of the people kept pace with material prosperity? The growing antagonism between capital and labor, the lack of sympathy often manifest be- tween those of the same race and even of the same religion when enjoying incomes quite unequal — these things would seem to indicate that the heart has lagged behind the head and the purse. The restoration of the equilibrium and the infusing of a feeling of brother- hood that will establish justice and good will must be the aim of those who are sincerely interested in the progress of the race. This is pre- eminently the work of our religious teachers, although it is a work in which the laity as well as the clergy must take part. After meeting Pius X., late the beloved patriarch of Venice, I feel assured that he is peculiarly fitted to lead his portion of the Christian church in this great endeavor. The Vatican which serves as the home and exe- cutive offices of the supreme pontiff of the Catholic church is an enormous building, or rather collection of buildings for it bears evidence of additions and an- nexes. One might be easily lost in its maze of corri- dors. The ceilings of the chief apartments are high and, like the walls of the spacious rooms and halls, are covered with frescoes of priceless value. The vat- THE CATHOLIC CAPITAL. 91 ican adjoins St. Peter's cathedral or basilica as it is called — a description of whose beauties would fill a volume. The basilica is so harmoniously proportioned that one does not appreciate its vastness from a dis- tance, but once within its walls it is easy to credit the statement that fifty thousand persons can be crowded into it. In a crypt just beneath the great dome is the tomb of St. Peter about which myriad lamps are kept constantly burning. Near the tomb is a crucifix sus- pended under a canopy supported by four spiral col- umns that are replicas of a column elsewhere in the cathedral that is said to have been part of Solomon's temple. Not far from the crucifix is the famous bronze statue of St. Peter, made from a pagan statue of Jupiter. It is mounted upon a pedestal about five feet high and the large toe of the right foot, which projects over the pedestal, has been worn smooth by the lips of devout visitors to the basilica. To me the most remarkable of the splendors of the cathedral were the Mosaic pictures of which there are many of heroic size. These Mosaics depict Bible scenes and characters and are done with such mar- vellous skill that a little way ofif one can hardly doubt that they are the product of the brush of some great master. The colors, tints and shades are so perfect that it is difficult to believe that the pictures are formed by the piecing together of tiny bits of colored marbles and other stones. The Vatican maintains a staff of artists in Mosaic, some of whose work may be purchased by the public. I was shown the master- piece of Michael Angelo in the cathedral of St. Petei 92 UNDER OTHER FLAGS in Vinculo — a statue of Moses, seated. In the right knee there is a slight crack visible and it is the tradi- tion that when the great sculptor had finished his work he struck the knee with his mallet in a burst of enthusiasm and exclaimed, "Now, speak." St. Paul's cathedral, which stands outside the ancient wall of the city, is of modern construction and is therefore less in- teresting to the visitor than the great basilica of St. Peter's. Next to the Vatican and the cathedrals in interest are the ruins of ancient Rome. In England and France I had seen buildings many centuries old ; in Rome one walks at the foot of walls that for nearly two thousand years have defied the ravages of time. The best pre- served and most stupendous of the relics of "The Eter- nal City" is the Colosseum. It is built upon a scale that gives some idea of the largeness of Roman con- ceptions and of the prodigality with which the em- perors expended the money and labor of the people. The arena in which the gladiators fought with their fellows and with wild beasts — the arena in which many of the Christian martyrs met their death — is slightly oval in form, the longest diameter being about 250 feet. The arena was so arranged that it could be flooded with water and used for aquatic tournaments. The spectators looked down upon the contests from galler- ies that rose in four tiers to a height of 150 feet. At one end of the arena was the tribune occupied by the emperor and his suite; at the other end the vestal vir- gins occupied another tribune and it was their privil- ege to confer either life or death upon the vanquished THE CATHOLIC CAPITAL. 93 gladiators by turning the thumb up or down — turned up it meant life, turned down, death. The Roman populace gained access to the galleries by 160 doors and stairways. The seating capacity of the Colosseum is estimated to have been fifty thousand. The Forum is even richer than the Colosseum in historic interest and recent excavations have brought to light what are supposed to be the tomb of Caesar and the tomb of Romulus. The tribune is pointed out from which the Roman orators addressed the mul- titude. Here Cicero hurled his invectives at Cataline and Mark Anthony is by Shakespeare made to plead here for fallen Caesar. The triumphal arch of Con- stantine stands at one end of the Forum and is in an excellent state of preservation. Among the carvings lately exhumed are some (especially atractive to an agriculturist) showing the forms of the bull, the sheep and the hog. They are so like the best breeds of these animals today that one can scarcely believe they were chiseled from stone nearly twenty centuries ago. In Rome, as in Paris, there is a Pantheon in the familiar style of Greek architecture. In the Roman Pantheon is the tomb of Raphael. Cardinal Bembo in recognition of Raphael's genius, caused to be placed upon his tomb a Latin epitaph which Hope has translated : "Living, great nature feared he might outvie Her works, and dying fears herself to die." To those who are familiar with Roman history the river Tiber is an object of interest, but here, as is often the case, one feels disappointed in finding that the thing pictured was larger than the reality. The Tiber, •94 UNDER OTHER FLAGS yellow as the Missouri, flows through the very heart of Rome and is kept within its channel by a high stone embankment. In and near Rome are many ancient palaces, some of them falling into decay, and some, well preserved. One of the most modern of the pal- aces of the Italian nobles was built by American mon- ey, the wife being a member of a wealthy New York family. Part of this palace is now occupied by the American ambassador, Mr. Myer, to whom I am in- debted for courtesies extended in Rome. Art galler- ies and museums are numerous in Rome and in the other cities of Italy, and contain many of the works of the great Italian artists like Raphael Angelo, Titian and others. The palace of King Victor Emmanuel and the public buildings of Rome are imposing, but do not compare in size or magnificence with the ancient palaces of England and France. The journey from Rome to Venice carried us through a very fertile part of Italy. The land is carefully cultivated ; the thrifty farmers in some places have set out mulberry trees for the cultivation of the silk worm and have trained grape vines upon the trees. We passed through the edge of Venice and saw the gondoliers on the Grand Canal waiting to carry passengers into the city. A very intelligent Italian newspaper correspondent whom I met in Rome in formed me that the northern provinces of Italy were much further advanced in education than the southern provinces, but that the people of the south were men- tally very alert and with the addition of instruction would soon reach the intellectual level of the north. THE CATHOLIC CAPITAL. 95 My stay in Italy was all too brief and I left with much reluctance this nursery of early civilization — this seat of government of the world's greatest religious organ- ization. Tolstoy, the Apostle of Love. Count Leo Tolstoy, the intellectual giant of Rus- sia, the moral Titan of Europe and the world's most conspicuous exponent of the doctrine of love, is living a life of quiet retirement upon his estate near the vil- lage of Yasnaya, Poliana, about one hundred and thir- ty miles south of Moscow. I made a visit to the home of this peasant philoso- pher during my stay in Russia, driving from Tula in the early morning and arriving just after daylight. Consul General Smith of Moscow arranged with Count Tolstoy for the visit. I had intended remain- ing only a few hours, but his welcome was so cordial that my stay was prolonged until near midnight Count Tolstoy is now about seventy-six years old, and while he shows the advance of years he is still full of mental vigor and retains much of his physical strength. As an illustration of the latter, I might refer to the horseback ride and walk which we took together in the afternoon. The ride covered about four miles and the walk about two. When we reached the house the count said that he would take a little rest and insisted that I should do likewise. A few min- utes later when I expressed to the count's physician, Dr. Burkenheim, the fear that he might have over- taxed his strength, the doctor smilingly assured me that the count usually took more exercise, but had 96 (TOLSTOY. 97 purposely lessened his allowance that day, fearing that he might fatigue me. Count Tolstoy is an impressive figure. His years have only slightly bowed his broad shoulders and his step is still alert. In height he is about five feet eight, his head is large and his abundant hair is not yet wholly white. His large blue eyes are set wide apart and are shaded by heavy eyebrows. The forehead is unusually wide and high. He wears a long, full beard that gives him a patriarchal appearance. The mouth is large and the lips full. The nose is rather long and the nostrils wide. The hands are muscular, and the grasp bespeaks warmth of heart The count dresses like the peasants of his country, wearing a grayish-blue blouse belted in at the waist, with skirts reaching nearly to the boot-tops. His trousers, also of the peasant style, are inclined to be baggy and are stuffed into his boots. I was informed that the count never wears any other dress even when other members of the family are entertaining guests in even- ing clothes. The room which I occupied was the one used by the count as a study in his younger days, and I was shown a ring in the ceiling from which at the age of forty-eight he planned to hang himself—a plan from which he was turned by the resolve to change the manner and purpose of his life. As is well known, Count Tolstoy is a member of the Russian nobility and for nearly fifty years led the life of a nobleman. He early achieved fame as a novelist, his "War and Peace," which was written when he was but a young 98 UNDER OTHER FLAGS man, being considered one of the literary master- pieces of the century. He sounded all the "depths and shoals of honor" in the literary and social world ; he realized all that one could wish or expect in these lines, but found that success did not satisfy the crav- ings of the inner man. While he was meditating up- on what he had come to regard as a wasted life, a change came over him, and with a faith that has never faltered he turned about and entered upon a career that has been unique in history. He donned the simple garb of a peasant, and, living frugally, has de- voted himself to philosophy and unremunerative work —that is, unremunerative from a financial standpoint, although he declares that it has brought him more genuine enjoyment than he ever knew before. All of his books written since this change in his life have been given to the public without copyright except in one in- stance when the proceeds of "Resurrection" were pledged to the aid of the Russian Quakers, called Doukhobors, whom the count assisted to emigrate from their persecution in Russia to western Canada, where they now reside. As an evidence of the count's complete renunciation of all money considerations, it is stated that he has declined an ofTer of $500,000 for the copyright of the books written by him before his life current was altered. My object in visiting him was not so much to learn his views—for his opinions have had wide expres- sion and can be found in his numerous essays— but it was rather to see the man and ascertain if I could from personal contact the secret of the tremendous influence TOLSTOY. 99 that he is exerting upon the thought of the world. I am satis-fied that, notwithstanding his great intellect, his colossal strength lies in his heart more than in his mind. It is true that few have equalled him in power of analysis and in clearness of statement, while none have surpassed him in beauty and aptness of illustra- tion. But no one can commune with him without feeling that the man is like an overflowing spring- asking nothing, but giving always. He preaches self- abnegation and has demonstrated to his own satis- faction that there is more genuine joy in living for others than in living upon others—more happiness in serving than in being served. The purpose of life, as defined by him, has re- cently been quoted by Mr. Ernest Crosby in "The Open Court." It reads as follows : "Life then is the activity of the animal individual- ity working in submission to the law of reason. Reason shows man that happiness cannot be obtained by a self-life and leaves only one outlet open for him and that is love. Love is the only legitimate manifesta- tion of life. It is an activity that has for its ob- ject the good of others. When it makes its appear- ance the meaningless strife of the animal life ceases." Love is the dominant note in Count Tolstoy's philosophy. It is not only the only weapon of defense which he recognizes, but it is the only means by which he would influence others. It is both his shield and his sword. He is a deeply religious man, notwith- standing the fact that he was a few years ago excom- municated by the Russian church. In one of his essays he has defined religion as follows: 100 UNDER OTHER FLAGS "True religion is a relation, accordant with reason and knowledge, which man establishes with the in- finite life surrounding him, and it is such as binds his life to that infinity, and guides his conduct." He not only takes his stand boldly upon the side of spiritual, as distinguished from material, philosophy, but he administers a rebuke to those who assume that religious sentiment is an indication of intellectual weakness or belongs to the lower stages of man's de- velopment. In his essay on "Religion and Morality," to which he referred me for his opinion on this subject, he says : "Moreover, every man who has ever, even in childhood, experienced religious feeling, knows by personal experience that it was evoked in him, not by external, terrifying, material phenomena, but by an inner consciousness, which had nothing to do with the fear of the unknown forces of nature — a conscious- ness of his own insignificance, loneliness and guilt. And, therefore, both by external observation and by personal experience, man may know that religion is not the worship of gods, evoked by superstitious fear of the invisible forces of nature, proper to men only at a certain period of their development; but is some- thing quite independent either of fear or of their de- gree of education — a something that cannot be de- stroyed by any development of culture. For manV consciousness of his finiteness amid an infinite univ verse, and of his sinfulness (i. e., of his not having done all he might and should have done) has always existed and will exist as long as man remains man." TOLSTOY. 101 If religion is an expression of "man's conscious- ness of his finiteness amid an mfinite universe, and of his sinfulness," it cannot be outgrown until one be- lieves himself to have reached perfection and to pos- sess all knowledge, and observation teaches us that those who hold this opinion of themselves are not the farthest advanced, but simply lack that comprehension of their own ignorance and frailty which is the very beginning of progress. Count Tolstoy is an advocate of the doctrine of non-resistance. He not only believes that evil can be overcome by good, but he denies that it can be over- come in any other way. I asked him several questions on this subject, and the following dialogue presents his views : Q. Do you draw any line between the use of force to avenge an injury already received, and the use of force to protect yourself from an injury about to be inflicted? A. No. Instead of using violence to protect my- self, I ought rather to express my sorrow that I had done anything that would make anyone desire to injure me. Q. Do you draw a line between the use of force to protect a right and the use of force to create a right? A. No. That is the excuse generally given for the use of violence. Men insist that they are simply defending a right, when, in fact, they are trying to secure something that they desire and to which they are not entitled. The use of violence is not necessary to secure one's rights ; there are more effective means. 102 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Q. Do you draw any distinction between the use of force to protect yourself and the use of force to pro- tect some one under your care — a child, for instance? A. No. As we do not attain entirely to our ideals, we might find it difficult in such a case not to resort to the use of force,but it would not be justifiable, and, besides, rules cannot be made for such excep- tional cases. Millions of people have been the vic- tims of force and have suffered because it has been thought right to employ it ; but I am now old and I have never known in all my life a single instance in which a child was attacked in such a way that it would have been necessary for me to use force for its protec- tion. I prefer to consider actual rather than imaginary cases. I found later that this last question had been answered m a letter on non-resistance addressed to Mr. Ernest Crosby, in 1896, (included in a little vol- ume of Tolstoy's Essays and Letters recently pub- lished by Grant Richards, Leicester Square, London, and reprinted by Funk & Wagnalls of New York). In this letter he says: "None of us has ever yet met the imaginary rob- ber with the imaginary child, but all the horrors which fill the annals of history and of our own times came and come from this one thing — that people will believe that they can foresee the results of hypothetical future actions/' When I visited him he was just finishing an in- troduction to a biographical sketch of William Lloyd TOLSTOY. 103 Garrison, his attention having been called to Garrison by the latter's advocacy of the doctrine of non-resist- ance. Tolstoy, in one of the strongest essays that he has written — an essay entitled "Industry and Idleness"— elaborates and defends the doctrine advanced by a Russian name Bondaref, to the effect that each indi- vidual should labor with his hands, at least to the extent of producing his own food. I referred to this and asked him for a brief statement of his reasons. He said that it was necessary for one to engage in manual labor in order to keep himself in sympathy with those who toil, and he described the process by which people first relieve themselves of the necessity of physical exertion and then come to look with a sort of con- tempt upon those who find it necessary to work with their hands. He believes that lack of sympathy lies at the root of most of the injustice which men suffer at the hands of their fellows. He holds that it is not sufficient that one can remember a time when he earned his bread in the sweat of his brow, but that he must continue to know what physical fatigue means and what drudgery is, in order that he may rightly estimate his brother and deal with him as a brother. In addition to this he says that, when one begins to live upon the labor of others, he is never quite sure that he is earning his living. Let me quote his lan- guage : "If you use more than you produce you can- not be quite content, if you are a conscientious man. Who can know how much I work? It is impossible, A man must work as much as he can with his hands. 104 UNDER OTHER FLAGS taking the most difficult and disagreeable tasks, that is, if he wishes to have a quiet conscience. Mental work is much easier than physical work, despite what is said to the contrary. No work is too humble, too disagreeable, to do. No man ought to dodge work. If I dodge work I feel guilty. There are some people; who think they are so precious that other people must do the dirty, disagreeable work for them. Every man is so vain as to think his own work most important. That is why I try to work with my hands by the side of workingmen. If I write a book, I cannot be quite sure whether it will be useful or not. If I produce something that will support life, I know that I have done something useful." Tolstoy presents an ideal, and while he recognizes that the best of efforts is but an approach to the ideal, he does not consent to the lowering of the ideal itself or the defense of anything that aims at less than the entire realization of the ideal. He is opposed to what he calls palliatives, and insists that we need the re- formation of the individual more than the reformation of law or government. He holds that the first thing 'to do is to substitute the Christian spirit for the selfish spirit. He likens those who are trying to make piecemeal progress, to persons who are trying to push cars along a track by putting their shoulders against the cars. He says that they could better employ their energy by putting steam in the engine, which would then pull the cars. And the religious spirit he defines as "such a belief in God and such a feeling of responsi- .bility to God as will manifest itself both in the wor- TOLSTOY. 105 ship of the Creator and in fellowship with the created." During the course of his conversation he touched on some of the problems with which the various na- tions have to deal. Of course he is opposed to war under all circumstances, and regards the professional soldier as laboring under a delusion. He says that soldiers, instead of following their consciences, accept the doctrine that a soldier must do what he is com- manded to do, placing upon his superior officer the responsibility for the command. He denies that any individual can thus shift the responsibility for his con- duct. In speaking of soldiers, he expressed an opin- 'x)n that indicates his hostility to the whole miltary system. He said that soldiers insisted upon being tried by military men and military courts, and added: "That is amusing. I remember that when that plea was made in a case recently, I retorted that if that was so, why was not a murderer justified in demand- ing a trial at the hands of murderers, or a burglar in demanding trial by a jury of burglars. That would be on all fours with the other proposition." He is not a believer in protection, and regards a tariflf levied upon all of the people for the benefit of some of the people as an abuse of government and immoral in principle. I found that he was an admirer of Henry George and a believer in his theory in regard to the single tax. He is opposed to trusts. He says that the trust is a new kind of despotism and that it is a menace to modern society. He regards the power that it gives men to oppress their fellows as even more dangerous than its power to reap great profits. 106 UNDER OTHER FLAGS He referred to some of our very rich men and de- clared that the possession of great wealth was ob- jectionable, both because of its influence over its pos- sessor and because of the power it gave him over his fellows. I asked him what use a man could make of a great fortune, and he replied: "Let him give it away to the first person he meets. That would be better than keeping it." And then he told how a lady of fortune once asked his advice as to what she could do with her money (she derived her income from a large manufacturing establishment) and he replied that if she wanted to do good with her money she might help her work-people to return to the country, and assist them in buying and stocking their farms. "If I do that," she exclaimed in dismay, "I would not have any people to work for me, and my income would disappear." As all are more or less creatures of environment, Tolstoy's views upon religion have probably been col- ored somewhat by his experience with the Greek church. He has, in some instances, used arguments against the Greek church which are broad enough to apply to all church organizations. He has not always discriminated between the proper use of an organiza- tion, and the abuse of the power which a large organ- ization possesses. While animated by a sincere desire to hasten the reign of universal brotherhood, and to help the world to a realization of the central thought of Christ's teachings, he has not, I think, fully appre- ciated the great aid which a church organization can lend when properly directed. In the work in which TOLSTOY. 107 Tolstoy is engaged, he will find his strongest allies among church members to whom the commandment "Thou shalt love thy neighbor as thyself" is not merely sound philosophy, but a divine decree. These will work in the church and through the church, while he stands without raising his voice to the same God and calling men to the same kind of life. His experience with the arbitrary methods of his own government has led him to say things that have been construed as a condemnation of all government. He as seen so much violence and injustice done in the name of the government, that it is not strange that the evils of government should impress him more than its possibilities for good. And yet those who believe that a just government is a blessing can work with him in the effort to secure such remedial measures as he asks for in his letter "To the Czar and His As- sistants." Tolstoy's career shows how despotic is the sway of the heart and how, after all, it rules the world, for while his literary achievements have been admired, the influence which they have exerted is as nothing compared with the influence exerted by his philosophy. People enjoy reading his character sketches, his dia- logues and his descriptions of Russian life, but these do not take hold upon men like his simple presentation of the doctrine of love, exemplified in his life as clearly as it is expressed by his pen. Many of his utterances are denied publication in Russia, and when printed abroad cannot be carried across the border, and yet he has made such a powerful impression upon the 108 UNDER OTHER FLAGS world that he is himself safe from molestation. He can say with impunity against his government and against the Greek church, what it would be perilous for others to say, and his very security is proof positive that in Russia thought inspired by love is, as Carlyle has declared it to be everywhere, stronger than artil- lery parks. NOTES ON EUROPE. In the articles written on the different European nations visited I confined myself to certain subjects, but there are a number of things worthy of comment which were not germane to the matters discussed. I shall present some of these under the above head. An American who travels in England in the win- ter time is sure to notice the coldness of the cars. The English people do not seem to notice this, for if they did the matter would certainly be remedied ; but the stranger who has to wrap up in blankets and keep his feet upon a tank of hot water, makes comparisons be- tween the comfort of the American railway cars and those of England, much to the disadvantage of the latter. On the continent the temperature of the cars is higher and travel more pleasant. Sheep graze in the very suburbs of London. This was a surprise to me. I saw more sheep in the little traveling that I did in England than I have seen in the United States east of the Mississippi River in years of travel. But after one has enjoyed for a few days the English mutton chop, the best in the world, he under- stands why English sheep are privileged to graze upon high priced lands. No stranger visits London withjut seeing the Parliament Building. It is an imposing structure viewed from the outside, and has many handsome rooms and corridors, but the House of Parliament 110 UNDER OTHER FLAGS is disappointing. The chamber occupied by the mem- bers of Parliament is small compared with the num- ber of members. There are no desks and the benches will not accommodate more than half of the member- ship. It is evident that they do not expect a full at- tendance. The gallery is also diminutive and capable of seating but a few persons. And yet, Parliament rules England. It is the great legislative body of the British Isles, and all important questions are settled there. When Parliament declares against a policy of the Government, the Government bows to its will and summons the leader of the opposition to form a new cabinet. While the House of Lords has the legal right to oppose measures that arise in Parliament, it seldom does so; and while the king has a legal right to veto, that right has not been exercised for a long time. When one considers the paramount influence of Parliament over the English Government, he under- stands why men like Gladstone would prefer to be in Parliament rather than in the House of Lords. The House of Lords is much more elegantly fur- nished than Parliament, but it excites curiosity rather than interest. It, too, is small compared with the number of Lords ; but as the Lords seldom attend, the accommodations are ample. Only three members are required to constitute a quorum, and it is easy there- fore to get together enough to acquiesce in measures that pass Parliament. So far as any real influence is concerned the House of Lords might as well be abol- ished ; and as only three are necessary to constitute a quorum, it would only be necessary to reduce the nee- NOTES ON bLUROFE. Ill essary number by three nnd make none a qnonim to entirely remove this legislative body from consider- ation. The Courts of England are a matter of interest to American lawyers, and a matter of curiosity to other Americans. As our Supreme Judges wear gowns, the gown is not so unfamiliar to us ; but the wig, which is still worn by the English judges, barristers and solici- tors, is not seen in this country. The wig is made of white curly hair and does not reach much below the ears. When the wearer has black hair, or red hair, or in fact hair of any color except white, the contrast be- tween the wig and the natural hair sometimes excites a smile from those who are not impressed with the necessity for this relic of ancient times. In one of the court rooms which I visited, a son of Charles Dickens was arguing a case, and while I did not recognize any of the brilliancy and humor that have led me to place Dickens at the head of the novelists whom I have read, the son is said to be a reasonably success- ful lawyer. In one of the Admiralty Courts a very bushy headed wharfman was testifying to a salvage contract which he had made and he was quite em- phatic in his assertions that the terms were '"alf and 'alf." In one of che court rooms Lord Alverstone was presiding, and I had the pleasure of meeting him afterwards at dinner in Lincoln Inn Court. He is one of the finest looking men whom I met in England. He rendered a decision in favor of the United States in the matter of the recent arbitration with Canada. 112 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Ambassador Joseph Choate placed me under ob- ligations to him, as did also Secretary of the Legation, Henry White, by their many courtesies extended. At Mr. Choate's table I had the pleasure of meet- ing Right Hon. A. J. Balfour, the present Premier. He strikes one as a scholarly man rather than as a par- liamentary fighter. He has had a remarkable official career. As he was and is still a bimetallist, I found him a congenial man to have at my right. Mr. Richie, who left the Cabinet because of a disagreement with Mr. Balfour on the Fiscal question, sat at my left, and as he was an ardent opponent of protection, I had no trouble conversing with him. I learned afterwards that Mr, Balfour and Mr. Richie had not met since the Cabinet rupture. Among those present at the table was Hon. Leonard Courtney, for man}^ years a member of Parliament. He was a member of the Royal Commission that presented the now world re- nowned report on falling prices. He also took an active part in opposing the war against the Boers. In appearance he reminds one of Senator Allen G. Thur- man, having something of the same strength and rug- gedness of feature. I am indebted to him for an op- portunity to visit Lincoln Inn Court, where I met a number of other eminent judges besides Lord Alver- stone. Mr. Moreton Frewen was also a guest of Ambas- sador Choate on that occasion. He has frequently visited the United States and has written much on the subject of silver. When he came to the United States soon after the election in 1896, and was told that there NOTES ON EUROPE. 113 had been some repeating in some of the cities, he in- quired, "Is it not twice as honest to vote twice for honest money as to vote once?" I found, however, that he was working with the Chamberlain protec- tionists, who, by the way, call themselves "tariff re- formers." He had found a Bible passage which he was using on the stump. It was taken from Genesis. Pharaoah said to some one who inquired of him, "Go unto Joseph ; what he saith to you, do." It seems, however, from the more recent elections, that the peo- ple have refused to identify the modern Joseph with the ancient one. At Mr. Choate's table the subject of story telling was discussed, and some comment made about the proverbial slowness of the Englishman in catching the point of American stories. I determined to test this with a story and told of the experience of the minister who was arguing against the possibility of perfection in this life. He asked his congregation, "Is there any one here who is perfect?" No one arose. "Is there any one in the congregation who has ever seen a per- fect person?" No one arose. Continuing his inquiry, he asked, "Is there any one here who has ever heard of a perfect person?" A very meek little woman arose in the rear of the room. He repeated his question to be sure that she understood, and as she again declared that she had heard of such a person, he asked her to give the name of the perfect person of whom she had heard. She replied, "My husband's first wife." All oi the Englishmen at the table saw the point of the story lU UNDER OTHER FLAGS at once, and one of them remarked that he thought the story would be appreciated wherever domestic life is known. While the English are not given to the telling of stories as much as the Americans are, it must not be inferred that they are deficient in a sense of humor, The Briton is really fond of fun, as any one must con- clude who reads English literature or listens to Eng- lish speeches. English humor, however, is of the quiet and continuous style rather than of the bubbling and explosive variety. It was my good fortune to meet in London, Mr Sidney Webb and his talented wife, both of whom have written extensively on municipal ownership and industrial co-operation. One of the most interesting figures in European journalism is Sir Alfred Harmsworth, proprietor of the London Daily Mail. He has achieved a remarkable success and is still a young man. His country home, some thirty miles out from London, is an old English castle Which he recently secured for a long term of years. The house was built more than three hundred years ago by one of the kings for a favorite courtier. The estate is large enough to include farm and pasture lands and a well stocked hunting preserve. Lady Harmsworth is one of the most beautiful women in the kingdom and entertains lavishly. The average foreigner does not have any higher opinion than the American does of those "interna- tional marriages" by means of which some of the de- caying estates of titled foreigners are being restored, NOTES ON EUROPE 115 but there are many marriages between our people and Europeans which rest upon affection and congeniality. The union of Rt. Hon. Joseph Chamberlain and the daughter of Ex-Secretary Endicott, who was at the head of the Navy Department during Mr. Cleveland's first administration, is a notable illustration. Mrs. Chamberlain is a charming and accomplished woman and justly popular with the Britons as well as with the Americans who visit England. The American tourist is sure to find some of his countrymen stranded in London. I met several of them. Most of them represented themselves as re- lated to prominent political friends, and these I could assist without inquiring too closely into the alleged relationship, but one case of a different kind failed to appeal to me. A lady who attached a high sounding title to her name sent her secretary to solicit aid. He represented her as an American who had against her parents' wishes married a titled Englishman; her hus- band had deserted her and her ph5^sician had told her that her health required that she spend the winter in Southern France. Her American relatives were rich, I was assured, but she was too proud to let them know of her misfortune. It was a sad story even when told b}'- a secretary (how she could afford one I do not know), but T did not feel justified in encouraging a pride that led her to make her wants known to strangers rather than to her own kin. In my article on the growth of municipal owner- ship (it will be found on another page), I referred to the work of John Burns, the noted labor leader of 116 UNDER OTHER FLAGS London. I may add here that his seven or eight years old son is the handsomes' rJiild that I saw in England. I was on the stag at Lord Roseberry's meeting and my attention wa attracted to a child of unusual beauty sitting jus in front of me. I asked the gentle- man at my side wL^ther he was a fair sample of the English boy; he replied that he was an excellent rep- resentative. Soon afterward the mother introduced herself to me as the wife of John Burns. I thought it an interesting co-incidence that I should admire the child unconscious of his relationship to the man who had the day before impressed me so favorably. And, speaking of Mr. Burns, I reproduce below an item which appeared in one of the London papers the day after I returned Mr. Burns' call. He sent it to me with the remark that it probably differed from the per- sonal items to which I was accustomed. It reads : — "Mr. Burns' Mysterious Visitor. "Just before ten o'clock this (Friday) morning a hansom cab (plentifully bespattered with gilt coro- nets) stopped outside the residence of Mr. Burns, Lav- ender Hill. A person alighted and was received with every appearance of cordiality by Mr. Burns, who escorted him into the house. We believe the visitor was Lord Roseberry ; he certainly bore a striking re- semblance to that childlike peer. Possibly, however, it was only the King of Italy. In diplomatic circles it has been known for a long time that his Italian Maj- esty intended to visit the Municipal Mecca for much the same reasons that induced Peter the Great of Rus- sia to come to England. It was known, also, that he NOTES ON EUROPE. 117 would come in some sort of disguise. That Mr. Burns' visitor this morning was a person of importance is evidenced by the fact that a constable in uniform and two or three other men (probably secret service offi- cers) were in waiting when the cab drew up. They stood round the visitor and the constable saluted re- spectfully. A uniformed policeman had been in the neighborhood of Mr. Burns' house and the "Crown" all the morning. (Note — It was an ordinary cab and no policemen or secret service men were in sight. — Editor.) 'Westminster Abbey is one of the places which the visitor cannot well neglect. It was originally the burial place of royalty, and as the guide shows you the tablets and statues which perpetuate the memory of warrior kings and tells you how this king killed that one, and that king killed another, you recall the story of the American minister who concluded a very short discourse at the funeral of a man of question- able character by saying, "Some believe that he was a tolerable good man, while others believe that he was a very bad man, but whether he was good or bad we have this consolation, that he is dead." It is a relief to pass from the bloody annals of the earlier days and from the bloody deeds of ancient royalty to that part of the building which is honored by memorials of the great men in modern English life. To the American the most noted of those recently buried in Westmin- ster Abbey was Gladstone. His life spanned the pres- ent and the past generation, and his character and tal- ents are regarded as a part of the heritage of English speaking people 118 UNDER OTHER FLAGS A description of the Art Gallery, the public build- ings, the Tower, and of the many interesting and his- toric places would occupy more space than I can spare at this time. I shall pass from England with one observation. Upon the streets of London, and in fact throughout the British Isles, the rule is to "turn to the left." The American notices this at once, and until he becoir.cs accustomed to it he is in danger of collision. If Eng- land and the United States ever come together in an unfriendly way, it will probably be accounted for by the difference in our rules. We will be turning to the right while she will be turning to the left. Queenstown, Ireland, the first town to greet the tourist when he reaches Northern Europe and the last to bid him farewell when he departs, is a quaint and interesting old place. It is near the City of Cork, and the names upon the signs — the Murphys, the McDon- alds, the O'Briens, etc., are so familiar that one might suppose it to be an American colony. Here the re- turning traveler has a chance to spend any change which he has left, for black thorn canes and shillalahs, "Robert Emmett" and "Harp of Erin" handkerchiefs and lace collars are offered in abundance. The price of these wares has been known to fall considerably as the moment of departure approaches. At Queenstown one can hear the Irish brogue in all its richness and if he takes a little jaunt about the town he can enjoy the humor for which the Irish are famed. Scotland has a hardy population, due probably to the climate. Even near the southern boundary, the NOTES ON EUROPE. 119 weather was quite wintry before Thanskgiving Day of last year. Scotch plaids are in evidence at the stores and the visitor has an opportunity to buy traveling blankets bearing the figures and the colors of the va- rious Scottish clans. As I visited Scotland to study municipal ownership I reserved for a future trip a visit to the places of natural and historic interest. Strange that a narrow channel should make such a difiference as there is between the Englishman and the Frenchman. Some one has said, "Not only is England an island, but each Englishman is an island." This puts the case a little too strongly, but one no- tices that the French are much more gregarious than the English and more inclined to sociability. Their at- tention to strangers while not more sincere is more marked. Paris seems to be the favorite place for residence for Americans who desire to live in Europe. The cli- mate is milder, the attractions are more numerous and the cooking, it is said, is the best in the world. The automobile seems to have captured Paris, pos- sibly because of its many wide streets and boule- vards. While the tipping system may not be worse in France than in other countries, it is certainly nowhere more fully developed. It is said that in some of the fashionable restaurants of Paris the tips are so valua- ble that the waiters, instead of receiving wages, pay a bonus for a chance to serve. But all over Europe service of every kind is rewarded with tips, and a failure to comply with the custom makes the delin- quent a persona non grata. At the hotels all the at- 120 UNDER OTHER FLAGS tendants seem to get notice of the intended departure of a guest and they Hne up to receive a remembrance — porter, chambermaid, valet, bell-boy, elevator man, and some whose faces are entirely new to the guest. The cab-drivers collect the fare fixed by city ordinance and expect a tip besides. Ten per cent is the amount usually given and anything less fails to elicit thanks. An Irish jaunting car driver at QueenstOwn took out his tip in making change. While the traveller is often tempted to rebel against the tip system as it is found in Europe, he finally concludes that he can not reform a continent in one brief visit and submits with as good grace as possible. Guides can be found at all the leading hotels and they are well worth what they charge. They are ac- quainted with all places of interest, and can act as in- terpreters if one wants to make enquiries or do shop- ping. The rivers of Europe which have been immorta- lized in poetry and song — the rivers whose names we learn when as children we study geography — are a lit- tle disappointing. The Thames at London, the Seine at Paris, the Tiber at Rome, the Danube at Vienna, the Spree at Berlin, the Po in northern Italy, and the Rhine are not as large as fancy has pictured ; but the lakes of Switzerland surpass description. I regretted that I could not visit the Bay of Na- ples, for I never think of it without recalling the lines: NOTES ON EUROPE 121 I care not if My little skiff Float swift or slow From cliff to cliff. IWith dreamful eyes My spirit lies Under the walls Of Paradise. Surely it must be a delightfully restful place if it justifies the description given by the poet. I was disappointed that I did not have time to see more of Germany. Berlin was the only city in which I stopped, and the fact that the Holiday festivities were at their height made it difficult to prosecute any investigation. In another article I have discussed the German socialistic propaganda, and I shall here con- tent myself with calling attention to their railroad system. The total railroad mileage at the end of the year 1900, as reported by the American consul, was 28,601. Of this mileage private companies owned 2,573, and the federal government 798, the remainder was owned by the various German states, some of the states owning but a few miles of line. The ownership of the railroads by the various states does not in the least interfere with the operation of the lines. The plan in operation in Germany suggests the possibility of state ownership in this country as distinguished from fed- eral ownership. In Austria I saw for the first time the systematic cultivation of forests. In some places the various plantin^-s were near enough together to show trees of 122 UNDER OTHER FLAGS all sizes. At one side the trees were but a few feet in height while those at the other side of the forest were being converted into fuel. Vienna, the capital of Austria, is not the "Old Vienna" which was re-produced at the Chicago World's Fair and at the Buffalo Exposition, but is a substantial, new, and up-to-date city. The stores ex- hibit an endless variety of leather goods, and I found there, as also in Belgium, many novelties in iron, steel and brass. Russia deserves more attention than I could give it in the articles on Tolstoy and the czar. It is a land of wonderful resources and possibilities, and is making great progress considering the fact that a large pro- portion of the population has so recently emerged from serfdom. The peasants live in villages as in France and their life is primitive compared with life in the larger cities. There has been rapid growth in manu- facturing, commerce and art. Besides furnishing one of the greatest of novelists, Tolstoy, who is also the greatest of living philosophers, Russia has given to the world many others who are prominent in literature and in art. There is an art gallery at Moscow devoted almost entirely to the work of Russian artists. Here one finds a most interesting collection, a large number of the pictures being devoted to home scenes and his- toric events. In this gallery the nude in art is notice- able by its absence. In the art gallery at St. Peters- burg most of the paintings are by foreign artists. There is in this gallery a wonderful collection of cam- eos, jewelry and precious stones. I found in Russia a very friendly feeling toward NOTES ON EUROPE 123 the United States. Prince Hilkoff, who is at the head of the Siberian railroad, speaks English fluently, as do nearly all the other prominent officials. He in- formed me that he visited the United States about 1858 and crossed the plains by wagon. He inquired about the Platte river and its branches and remem- bered the names of the forts along the route. The driving horses of St. Petersburg are the best that I saw in Europe. They are round, strongly built, graceful in form and even in gait. They are not as speedy as the standard-bred trotters, but they are hardy and sufficiently fast. A peculiar yoke or half yoke is used to which the harness is fastened. It is at the end of the shafts and rises considerably above the shoulders. Often three horses are driven abreast. In such case the horse in the center is trained to carry his head up and the horses on either side turn their heads out. They present a very attractive appearance when fastened to the sleigh or to the drosky. I have spoken in another article of the deep hold which the Greek church has upon the people of Russia. A story which I heard in St. Petersburg illustrates this. An American residing there asked her cook to go to the market after some pigeons, or doves as they are more often called. The latter was horrified at the thought and refused, saying, "The Holy Ghost descended upon our Saviour in the form of a dove and it might be in one of these." Another American was rebuked by her servant who when told to throw something out of the window replied "This is Easter and Christ is risen. He might be passing by at this moment." 124 UNDER OTHER FLAGS In Russia we find the extremes. The government is the most arbitrary known among civilized nations and yet in Russia are to be found some of the most advanced and devoted advocates of civil liberty. No- where is the doctrine of force more fully illustrated and yet from Russia come the strongest arguments in favor of non-resistance. The poison and the antidote seem to be found near together in the world of thought as well as in the physical world. Thanksgiving Address Dellverad at the Banquet given by The American Society of London at the Hotel Cecil, London, November 26, 1903 err THANKSGIVING DAY ADDRESS Mr. Chairman, Your Excellency, Your Grace, My Lords, Ladies and Gentlemen: It is I who have rea- son to be grateful to the American Society for the op- portunity of meeting so many of my own countrymen and English men and women who are so like my coun- trymen that I cannot, looking down the tables, tell which is which. I am not surprised to find that the ladies of England are so handsome as to be taken for Americans, for I have found the ladies everywhere handsome enough for the men, but I have been a little surprised to find that I could not tell an Englishman from an American on the street here. And as I have a high opinion of the American, I cannot have a low opinion of the Englishman. (Cheers.) It is proper that I should express my gratitude tonight for several things. I am grateful to our distinguished ambassador for the courtesies he has shown me, and I have the ad- vantage of him in one respect, I had seen and heard him before. Once when I was in Washington, a young man then, I went into the supreme court of the United States, and heard a lawyer arguing a case. I was so impressed with the appearance of the man and with the manner of his speech that I inquired who this law- yer might be, and was told that it was Mr. Choate of New York. From that time to this I have looked back 127 128 UNDER OTHER FLAGS to that occasion, and I have never found in my country a law^yer w^ho measured higher than he did. (Cheers.) I am grateful to him for his kind words, although in doing me what he intended for a kindness he has somewhat embarrassed me, and if I were to give full credit to what he has said I am afraid I might soon b" like the young lady whose sweetheart praised her until she became so vain that she would not speak to him. (Laughter.) This society, I am informed, celebrates two occasions, the Fourth of July and Thanksgiving Day. On the Fourth of July we celebrate our inde- pendence ; on Thanksgiving Day we acknowledge our dependence. And it is proper that Mr. Choate should be a conspicuous figure on both occasions, because on on the Fourth of July we boast of what we have done, and on Thanksgiving Day we feel grateful for what we have received, and we are both proud of, and grateful for. Ambassador Choate. (Laughter and cheers.) On the Fourth of July the eagle seems a little larger than it does on any other day, and its scream may grate more harshly on the foreign ear than it does at any Other time. But on this day we cultivate reverence and express our appreciation of those blessings that have come to our country without the thought or aid of Americans. We have reason to look with some de- gree of pride upon the achievement of the United States; we contemplate the present with satisfaction, and look to the future with hope ; and yet on this occa- sion we may well remember that we are but building upon the foundations that have been laid for us. We did not create the fertile soil that is the basis of our THANKSGIVING ADDRESS 129 agricultural greatness ; the streams that drain and feed our valleys were not channelled by human hands. We did not fashion the climate that gives us the white cot- ton belt of the south, the yellow wheat belt of the north, and the central corn belt that joins the two and overlaps them both. We do not gather up the mois- ture and fix the date of the early and later rains ; we did not hide away in the mountains the gold and the silver; we did not store in the earth the deposits of cop- per and of zinc; we did not create the measures of coal and the beds of iron. All these natural resources, which we have but commenced to develop, are the gift of Him before Whom we bow in gratitude tonight. (Loud cheers.) Nor are we indebted to the Heavenly Father alone, for we have received much from those who are separated from us by the Atlantic. If we have great and flourishing industries we must not forget that every nation in Europe has sent us its trained and skilled artisans. If we have made intellectual pro- gress, we must remember that those who crossed the ocean as pioneers brought with them their intelligence and their desire for learning. Even our religion is not of American origin. Like you, we laid the foundations of our church in the Holy Land, and those who came in the Mayflower and in other ships brought a love of religious liberty. Free speech, which has been devel- oped in our country, and which we prize so much, is not of American origin. Since I have been here I have been profoundly impressed with the part that Eng- lishmen have taken in establishing the right of free speech. (Cheers.) And I may say that before I came 130 UNDER OTHER FLAGS to this country the thing that most challenged my ad- miration in the Englishman was his determination to make his opinion known when he had an opinion that he thought should be given to the world. (Cheers.) Passing through the Bank of England, to which my friend, the ambassador, has referred, my attention was called to a protest that Admiral Cochrane wrote upon the bank note with which he paid the thousand pounds fine that had been assessed against him. I was inter- ested in that protest because it showed a fearlessness that indicates the possibilities of the race. Let me read what he said: "My health having suffered by long and close confinement, and my oppressors having resolved to deprive me of property or life, I submit to robbery to protect myself from murder (laughter) in the hope that I shall live to bring the delinquents to justice." (Renewed laughter.) That is the spirit that moves the world! There was a man in prison. He must pay his fine in order to gain his liberty. He be- lieved the action of the court unjust. He knew that if he stayed there he would lose his life and lose the chance for vindication, and yet, as he was going forth from the prison doors, he did not go with bowed head or cringing, but flung his protest in the face of his op- pressors, and told them he submitted to robbery to protect his life in the hope that, having escaped from their hands, he might bring them to justice. I like that in the Englishman, and during my short knowl- edge of public affairs I have looked across the ocean and admired the moral courage and the manliness of those Englishmen who have dared to stand out against THANKSGIVING ADDRESS 131 overwhelming odds and assert their opinions before the world. (Cheers.) We sometimes feel that we have a sort of proprietary interest in the principles of government set forth in the Declaration of Independ- ence. That is a document which we have given to the world, and yet the principles set forth therein were not invented by an American. Thomas Jefferson expressed them in felicitous language and put them into perma- nent form, but the principles had been known before. The doctrine that all men are created equal, that they are endowed with inalienable rights, that governments were instituted amongst men to secure these rights, and that they derived their just power from the con- sent of the governed — this doctrine which stands four , square with all the world was not conceived in the United States, it did not spring from the American mind — aye, it did not come so much from any mind as it was an emanation from the heart, and it had been in the hearts of men for ages. (Cheers.) Before Columbus turned the prow of his ship towards the west on that eventful voyage, before the Barons wrested Magna Charta from King John — yes, before the Roman legions landed on the shores of this island — aye, before Homer sang — that sentiment had nestled in the heart of man, and nerved him to resist the op- pressor. That sentiment was not even of human origin. Our own great Lincoln declared that it was God Himself who implanted in every human heart the love of liberty. Yes, when God created man He ^ave him life. He linked to life the love of liberty, and what God hath joined together let no man put 132 UNDER OTHER FLAGS asunder. (Cheers.) We have received great bles- sings from God and from all the world, and what is our duty? We cannot make return to those from whom those gifts were received. It is not in our power to make return to the Father above. Nor can we make return to those who have sacrificed so much for our advancement. The child can never make full return to the mother whose life trembled in the bal- ance at its birth, and whose kindness and care guard- ed it in all the years of infancy. The student cannot make full return to the teacher who awakened the mind, and aroused an ambition for a broader intel- lectual life. The adult cannot make full return to the patriarch whose noble life gave inspiration and in- centive. So a generation cannot make return to the generation gone ; it must make its return to the gener- ations to come. Our nation must discharge its debt not to the dead, but to the living. How can our country discharge this great debt? In but one way, and that is by giving to the world something equal in value to that which it has received from the world. And what is the greatest gift that man can be- stow upon man? Feed a man and he will hunger again ; give him clothing and his clothing will wear out; but give him a noble ideal, and that ideal will be with him through every waking hour, lifting him to a higher plane of life, and giving him a broader con- ception of his relations to his fellows. I know, therefore, of no greater service that my country can render to the world than to furnish to the world the highest ideal that the world has known. That ideal THANKSGIVING ADDRESS 133 must be so far above us that it will keep us looking upward all our lives, and so far in advance of us that we shall never overtake it. I know of no better il- lustration of an ideal life than the living spring, pour- ing forth constantly of that which refreshes and invig- orates — no better illustration of a worthless life than the stagnant pool which receives contribution from all the land around and around and gives forth nothing. (Cheers.) Our nation must make a large contribu- tion to the welfare of the world, and it is no reflection upon those who have gone before to say that we ought to do better than they have done. We would not meet the responsibilities of today if we did not build still higher the social structure to which they devoted their lives. (Cheers.) I visited the Tower of London today and saw upon the wall a strange figure. It was made of swords, ramrods, and bayonets, and was fashioned into the form of a flower. Someone had put a card on it and aptly named it the passion flower —and it has been too often the international flower. But the world has made progress. No longer do am- bition and avarice furnish a sufficient excuse for war. The world has made progress, and today you cannot justify bloodshed except in defense of a right already ascertained, and then only when all peaceable means have been exhausted. (Cheers.) The world has made progress. We have reached a point where we re- spect not the man who will die to secure some pecun- iary advantage, but the man who will die in defense of his rights. We admire the courage of the man who is willing to die in defense of his rights, but 134 UNDER OTHER FLAGS there is yet before us a higher ground. Is he great who will die in defense of his rights? There is yet to come the greater man — the man who will die rather than tresspass upon the rights of another. (Cheers.) Hail to the nation whatever its name may be that leads the world towards the realization of this higher ideal. I am glad that we now recognize that there is 'something more powerful than physical force, and no one has stated it better than Carlyle. He said that thought was stronger than artillery parks, and at last molded the world like soft clay; that behind thought was love, and that there never was a wise head that had not behind it a generous heart. The world is com- ing to understand that armies and navies, however numerous and strong, are impotent to stop thought. Thought inspired by love will yet rule the world. I am glad that there is a national product more valu- able than gold or silver, more valuable than cotton or wheat or corn or iron — an ideal. That is a merchan- dise — if I may call it such — that moves freely from country to country. You cannot vex it with an export tax or hinder it with an import tariff (Cheers.) It is greater than legislators, and rises triumphant over the machinery of government. In the rivalry to pre- sent the best ideal to the world, love, not hatred, will control ; and I am glad that on this Thanksgiving Day I can meet with my countrymen and their friends here assembled, return thanks for what my country has received, thanks for the progress that the world has made, and contemplate with joy the coming of that day when the rivalry between nations will be. THANKSGIVING ADDRESS 13i not to see which can injure the other most, but tc show which can hold highest the light that guides the footsteps of the human race to higher ground. (Loud and prolonged cheers.) Cuban Articles The following Cuban Articles were written for and copyrighted by Collier's Weekly, and reproduced by courtesy of that paper. THE PEARL OF THE ANTILLES. Cuba, the largest, richest and most populous of the West Indian islands, lies about ninety miles south of Key West, the southernmost point of Florida. It is separated from the mainland by that mightiest river of the earth, the Gulf Stream, whose resistless cur- rent sweeps to the northeast through a channel half a mile deep and carries the warmth of the southern seas far into the Temperate Zone. "The Pearl of the Antilles," as Cuba is called, is about nine hundred miles from east to west, and so narrow (about one hundred and twenty miles at its greatest width) that it looks on the map like a small arc of a great circle. Its coast line is broken by in- numerable bays and harbors, many of them admir- ably adapted for commerce. A large part of the sur- face of the island is made up of rolling prairies and the land is generally fertile. In the east a mountain range rises to a considerable height, terminating in Pico Tur- quino, which lifts its peak to an elevation of six thous- and nine hundred feet. The rivers are abundant, but are not navigable to any great extent There are a number of excellent turnpikes, many of them lined on either side with shade and flowering trees The stranger is at once attracted by the Royal Ponciana (flamboyant), a tree which grows to the height of thirty or forty feet, spreads out like a great umbrella and is covered with clusters of bright red flowers. The 189 140 UNDER OTHER FLAGS royal palm is the most important tree of the island. Its slender trunk rises to a great height, and it pre- sents an imposing appearance. Its foliage furnishes the material commonly used for the thatching of the roofs of the huts, and the bark which it sheds each year furnises the material used for making baskets, for the siding of houses and for the baling of tobacco. The wood of the royal palm, while not hard enough for building purposes, is still useful for fences and light work. This tree is so indispensable to the people of the island that it has been made a part of the Cuban coat of arms. Cuba also produces a large variety of hard woods, the best known being mahogany and ebony; but there are others almost as beautiful and as useful. The employes of Colonel Bliss, the collector of customs at Havana, presented him a beautiful desk and cabinet upon his departure from the island. It was made by Senor Nicolas Quintana, and eighteen different kinds of wood were employed in its construction. It not Dnly shows the variety of hard woods, but is an ex- :ellent specimen of the cabinet-maker's skill. The climate of Cuba is mild and the temperature quite uniform. Even in the warmest part of the sum- ner the mercury seldom rises above 92 in the shade ind in the winter it does not fall below 40 or 45. The jun, however, is very hot, and for eight or nine months :n the year work is practically suspended during the middle of the day. A visitor to the island even in the month of May inds the Panama hat an indispensable companion of he men and the fan a necessary part of the apparel of PE^RL OF THE ANTILLES 141 the women ; and it may be added that the hats range in price from a few dollars to one hundred and the fans from a few cents to five hundred dollars. In pur- chasing it is well to have some one along who is a good judge of the quality of these articles, because the stranger often finds it difficult to measure the /alue except by the price placed upon the article and this price is sometimes adjusted according to a sliding scale. The rainfall in Cuba varies ; sometimes it amounts to one hundred inches in a year and at other times it is considerably less. The rainy season usually begins in May and ends in October or November, and during this period a rainfall of ten or twelve inches in a day is not rare; and yet the land is not badly washed. The island is full of springs, many of them of considerable size. The city of Havana is supplied from an enormous spring which issues from the side of a hill about ten miles south of Havana. The water is clear and wholesome. The only fault that it has is a trace of lime, a characteristic of most of the spring water of the island. This spring not only supplies all the water that Havana needs, but nearly forty per cent of the flow is turned into an adjoining river as waste. The water is carried to the city through an immense aqueduct which was constructed by a Span- iard named Albear, who came from his native country with plans which were accepted and carried out by local authorities. While the expense was very great, the work was well done and is a monument to the genius of the engineer. I call particular attention to 142 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Havana's water supply because in contemplating a dsit to the island the character of the water gave me most concern, and I had resolved to rely upon Apol- linaris or some other mineral water. The first day in the city, however, convinced me that the water was pure, and I drank it freely during my week's stay. The resources of the island have not been fully developed, and many things that are imported might as well be raised at home. The diversification of the industries of the island ought to be one of the first works to engage the attention of the minister of agri- culture. The cocoanut, orange and pineapple are found in reasonable abundance; a small but very pal- atable banana and a small lime are grown. Tomtoes, cabbages and a number of other vegetables are being cultivated, but truck gardening has not reached the perfection that it has in the United States. At present the sugar and tobacco industries are given almost undivided attention. The sugar crop of Cuba amounted to 1,054,214 tons in the season of 1893-94. During the war it fell to as low as 212,051 tons — that was during the year 1896-97, There has been a gradual increase from that date to the present year, when it is estimated that the crop will equal 700,000 tons. This is almost all raw sugar and is sent to the United States ; the exports of refined sugar do not average $3,000 per year, and the average amount exported to countries other than the United States does not exceed 1,000 tons. Cuba is exceptionally fitted for the production of sugar. The cane grows throughout the entire year and does not require re- PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 143 planting. A crop can be harvested every nine or ten months and one planting will last for from eight to fifteen years, according to the soil and care. In fact, tliere are instances of fields that have not been re- planted for thirty or forty years. Tobacco is not so important a crop as sugar, and yet in Pinar del Rio, the western province of the isl- and, there is produced a variety of tobacco that has made the Havana cigar famous the world over. The tobacco exports were valued at $21,084,750 in 1899 and at $26,084,971 in 1900. Horses and mules are sometimes used for carrying burdens, an immense sack with a large pocket on either side being thrown across the back of the animal. The ox, however, is usually employed for the cultivation of the soil and for the carrying of farm products. The American who visits the island will notice the yoke. Instead of putting the burden upon the shoulders as the American yoke does, it is fastened around the horns like the Assyrian yoke, so that the ainmals push the load with their heads. One notices the scarcity of milk and butter. Upon inquiry I was told that the milk yielded very little cream and that the natives used butter scarcely at all. American residents, however, insisted that it was due to the fact that cows were not cared for as in the United States, and one who has had considerable ex- perience in Cuba declared that he had fed grain to his cows and secured as good a result in both milk and butter as could be secured in the United States. The pasturage is excellent, and several Americans are plan- U4 UNDER OTHER FLAGS ning to make an experiment in cattle raising. They claim that a steer can be raised and fattened on half the sum required in the western states. They believe that sufficient meat can be produced to supply the entire island and leave a surplus for export. Little attention has been given to the breeding of high grade hogs or cattle, and goats are apparently more numer- ous than sheep. The population of Cuba numbers about one and a half million, according to the best estimates, of which the negroes constitute about one-third. Slavery was formally abolished in 1856, but the traffic continued until 1886. The slave trade thrived in Cuba after it had been abolished in the United States, and it is said that a cargo of Congo negroes was sold on the island as late as 1878. The population is made up of Spaniards and their descendants — the former are called Spaniards and the latter Cubans. The Spaniards own the bulk of the personal property and much of the real estate, while the latter make up the majority of the voting popula- tion. During the wars which have ravaged the island the Cubans have suffered most because much of their property was confiscated or burned, while those Span- iards who were loyal to the government largely es- caped. It is estimated that the lands of the island are mortgaged to more than sixty-five per cent of their present market value, the mortgages generally being given for money with which to stock and improve the farms. During the struggle for liberty the improve- ments were destroyed, but the mortgages escaped unharmed. PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 145 The Cuban people are as a rule docile, domestic, well-meaning and temperate. There is almost an en- tire absence of drunkenness. Americans admit that about the only evidences of intoxication they have seen on the island have been exhibited by the Americans. The education of the children was much neg- lected during the numerous insurrections, but in no respect has the island shown more marked improve- ment than the attention given to the instruction of the children. During the period of American intervention the number of children in attendance at schools has increased several hundred per cent. The governor of the province of Matanzas told me that in the city of Matanzas the number of children in school there had increased from twenty-five hundred to over seven thousand within the last five years, notwithstanding the large mortality among the children during the last war. He pointed with some pride to a large building which under Spanish rule was used for a jail but is now occupied by a public school. There is at Havana, also, a large building until recently used for the stor- age of ammunition, which is being converted into a great university. The religion of the island is Catholic, and almost all of the inhabitants have been baptized in that faith. This church has splendid houses of worship and many large institutions devoted to charity and benevolence. There is absolute freedom of religion, and most of the prominent Protestant denominations have representa- tives here. On Sunday night preceding the inaugura- tion of the president a union patriotic service was held ,146 UNDER OTHER FLAGS and the pastors of all the Protestant churches took in the building occupied by the Congregational church, part. Some of these churches have established private schools, and these have a very satisfactory attendance. The difference between the country and the city is very marked. In the country many of the people live in small and scantily furnished houses, each family cultivating a small tract of land. There are, however, some very large plantations, and these, of course, have commodious houses and expensive mills for the ex- tracting of sugar from cane. In the cities the houses are built in solid blocks and have no yards. In the better houses there is usually an open court inside, but the population is crowded very closely together. Those who have not visited Mexico or some other Spanish country will be struck by a custom which pre- vails in Cuba. The family carriage is usually kept in the front hall and the stable is generally a part of the house. For instance, you will find a house costing from fifty thousand to one hundred thousand dollars, with marble floors, ceilings twenty-five feet high, and with large rooms, filled with elegant furniture, paint- ings and statuary. In the centre will be a beautiful court, with all kinds of tropical flowers and plants, watered by a costly fountain. On the first floor will be the living rooms, in the basement will be the kitchen and the servants' rooms, and adjoining a perfectly equipped bathroom will be found the carriage room and the stable. Havana is, of course, the city of the greatest size and interest. The Cubans call it Habana, although the PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 147 English-speaking people of the world substitute a "v" for the "b." It means a haven, and the name was first applied to a city on the southern coast and afterward given to the present city. It lies on the south shore of Havana bay, one of the best harbors in the island. It is entered by a deep but narrow channel, and is so large and well proteted that an entire fleet can ride at anchor. The wreck of the Maine is still visible in the harbor, and is an object of intense interest to both Americans and Cubans ; for to the former it recalls a great national bereavement, while the Cubans recog- nize that, horrible and lamentable as it was, it had an important influence in the securing of their independ- ence. Morro Castle guards the entrance to the harbor, and it is admirably situated, as well as admirably con- structed, for defense. It is built upon a cliff and its massive walls made the Spaniards feel secure from any foreign attack. Near by is Fort Cabanas, which is equally well constructed, and, having been the scene of the execution of many Cuban patriots, is equally in- teresting to the visitor. The formal transfer of the government from the United States to the Cuban re- public gave the Cubans scarcely less pleasure than the raising of the Cuban flag over Morro and Cabanas* In fact, it is said that when, on the 11th day of May, the president-elect landed at Havana and the Cuban flag was for a short time raised over Morro, the vet- erans of the prolonged wars were so affected that they shouted, wept and hugged each other by turns. Fort Principe, which crowns a natural eminence 148 UNDER OTHER FLAGS just back of the city of Havana, is said to be the strongest fortification on the Western Hemisphere, It was constructed for the defense of Havana and will accommodate a garrison of many thousands. The city of Havana is built upon the shore of the sea and of Havana bay, the ground gradually sloping back from the water's edge toward Port Principe. The streets are narrow, like the streets of Mexican cities, and show a reckless disregard of the points of the compass. The residences are nearly all one story, and have a window and door opening upon the street, the former invariably protected by iron bars or grat- ing. In the middle of the window is a gate which is unlocked in the cool of the evening, and the young ladies stand at the opening and watch the passers-by. The presence of so many beautiful faces at the win- dows enhances the pleasure of a drive through the streets at this hour of the day. The casual admirer must be content to talk with the senorita through the bars ; only an accepted suitor is admitted to the parlor, and even then he must do his courting in the presence of some older member of the family. Until the period of intervention the young ladies never went upon the street alone. Though this custom has relaxed some- what, it is usual even now for the mother or a chap- eron to accompany the daughter. The principal street of Havana is called the Prado, and leads from the point opposite Morro Castle back into the interior of the city. It has been very much improved under General Wood's direction and is now the most beautiful part of the city. While a consider- PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 149 able sum was expended upon this improvement, the Cubans are very proud of it and it is the place most Frequented in the evening. On Sundays, about sunset, the Prado is crowded, A contract has been given to m individual to furnish seats for those who desire to rest, and the city receives four thousand dollars a year tor the concession. Thousands of people line this ;treet, while every one who has a carriage or can hire 3ne joins in the procession. On the Sunday preceding :he inauguration the carriages were sometimes four ibreast and the travel was so congested that it was difficult to drive faster than a walk. Here one can see Havana life in all its phases. The wealthy are out in splendid equipages, and those of more moderate means mingle with them, while on the sidewalks will be found 1 promiscuous crowd, all neatly dressed, and so peace- ful and orderly that no officer of the law is necessary to control them. Not far from Havana, about twelve miles to the southwest, at a beautiful little cove, is situated the bouse of the Havana Yacht club. It has a large mem- 3ership and furnishes a delightful place for rest and recuperation. The road leading from Havana to the y^acht club passes by the cemetery and Columbia Barracks. The cemetery is an object of interest to those who are not acquainted with burial customs in tropical countries. The private vaults of the wealthy are made of cement and stone and are waterproof. A marble slab covers the grave and artificial flowers adorn the lot. Those who cannot afford to own a private vault 150 UNDER OTHER FLAGS are buried in vaults rented for a limited time, and when the time is up the remains are removed to the bone- pile if further rent is not forthcoming. The very poor are carried to the cemetery in a rented box and buried, mother earth furnishing them their only coffin. There are a number of beautiful monuments in the Havana cemetery, the most elaborate of which is one of white marble, erected to the memory of forty volunteer fire- men who lost their lives in a disastrous explosion which occurred some years ago. Next to the firemen's monu- ment in size and even surpassing it in interest is the pile of granite and marble reared in honor of the eight students who were shot by order of one of the Spanish generals. Columbia Barracks is the name given to the place where the American troops were encamped during the intervention. General Lee's army corps located the camp upon a beautiful knoll overlooking the sea. It proved to be a healthful place, and our soldiers suf- fered far less than it was feared they would when they embarked for Cuba. From General Wood I learned that the island has been entirely purged of yellow fever and that the death rate in Havana is now lower than in Washington, D. C. Major W. C. Gorges of the United States army, who has been in charge of the sanitary department, deserves great credit for the work that has been done in the matter of improving sanitary conditions in the island. Under his administration the mosquito theory was fully tested, and it was proven to the satisfaction of all who watched the experiment that the disease is PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 15] not transmitted by contact with the yellow fever pa- tient but by the bite of a mosquito which has pre- viously bitten one having the disease. Dr. Carlos Finlay of Havana some twenty-one years ago brought this terrible indictment against the mosquito and, after a fair and impartial trial, it stands convicted before the world. Governor Jennings of Florida, who visited Cuba for the double purpose of attending the inauguration and of investigating the sanitary system of the island, was much gratified to learn of the care that is now taken to provide against and stamp out contagious diseases. Florida is so near to Cuba that his people are vitally interested in the subject. From him I learned that vaccination against smallpox has received especial attention in Cuba. A room is fitted up with the most modern scientific equipment; expert physicians are in charge ; calves, first tested as to their general health, are vaccinated and kept under surveillance for five days and then placed upon a table made for the purpose and the bovine virus is extracted. This is placed in vats and, after being thoroughly prepared, is made into what are called points, each point containing sufficient virus to vaccinate five persons. One calf furnishes bovine virus enough to vaccinate 1,000 per- sons. The Havana institution furnishes virus for the island and the marine hospital service of the United States. Some idea of the magnitude of this institution can be gathered from the fact that 250,000 persons have been vaccinated on the island of Cuba within five months, and the care taken is shown by the fact that not a single case of death has resulted in all that num- ber of vaccinations. 152 UNDER OTHER FLAGS There is also at Havana a very complete disin- fecting plant. The United States steamer Sanator, especially built for ship disinfection and for handling of large numbers of soldiers and passengers, arrived at Havana during the latter part of June, 1900 ; it is the only disinfecting steamer in the world and is pro- vided with the most modern apparatus, including shower baths and robing and disrobing rooms suffi- cient to handle 1,000 persons daily. The experience of the army in Montauk Point in 1898 suggested many improvements in the matter of disinfection, and these suggestions have been utilized in the construction of this vessel. During the month of June, 1901, this steamer disinfected 40 passenger vessels, and 39 fishing smacks, making a total of 79 vessels. During the first fiscal year 463 vessels were disinfected, together with 4,360 pieces of baggage. The public buildings of Havana are substantially constructed and will last for many years. The Span- iards had an eye to the future and built for posterity, therefore the official headquarters at Havana and the other cities are large, strong and massive. The prison is an immense building, and though ornamental in appearance is unfortunately situated on the Prado. The condition of the prison, by the way, has been much improved during American occupancy, a fact to which the Cubans point with muh pride and satisfaction. The Palace, occupied by the governor general during Spanish rule, is a commodious structure near the wharf, and Former Governor General Wood has made his headquarters here, as have the heads of the various departments of the government. PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 153 When I called upon the mayor, the able and ac- complished Senor De la Torre, I was ushered into a reception room which was formerly the crown room of the palace. There my attention was immediately at- tracted by two splendid oil paintings of large size. One represented Cortes landing in Cuba, and the other the landing of the Pilgrim Fathers at Plymouth Rock. In the first picture the great Spanish explorer appeared as the central figure ; he was mounted upon a war- horse and around him were cannons, guns, sabres and chains. The second picture represented a group of unarmed men, women and children ; one held an open book, while on the ground were spade and pick and saw. The pictures were presented in 1867, by Senor Miguel de Aldama, the wealthiest Cuban of his time, who, a year later, was a prominent leader in the war begun for the independence of Cuba. The pictures contrast the doctrine of colonization by conquest with the peaceful methods employed by those who go forth to build a new home in a new country. There is an exquisite humor in the gift and the donor would have felt fully repaid if he could have known that those pictures would for thirty years mock every kingly gathering and utter their mute protest against arbi- trary power and colonel mis-government. Bull fighting and cock fighting have been prohib- ited during the intervention, and "J^i Alai," a very skilful ball game, has taken their place to some extent. But for the gambling that is encouraged by the "J^^i Alai" company the game would be deserving of praise. Havana is destined to be a popular winter resort 164 UNDER OTHER FLAGS for American tourists. It is only three and one-half days from New York by steamer and only little more than a day from southern Florida, and its climate af- fords a delightful retreat from the rigors of a northern winter. The hotels are well kept and sufficiently com- modious for the traveling public, but as the number of American tourists increases there will doubtless spring up other hotels built and conducted upon the American plan. The one great and overshadowing need of Havana is a sewerage system, and that subject is now being considered. It has not been thought advisable to run a sewer into the harbor because it has no outlet, and the fact that the Gulf Stream would carry into the harbor any refuse matter emptied along the seacoast makes the problem a difficult one ; but that it will be soon solved is certain, and then no city on the Western Hemisphere will be more attractive to those who have the time and means for travel. To Americans Santiago is almost as interesting as Havana, because it was the scene of the decisive land engagement of the Spanish-American war as well as the scene of one of the two great naval battles of that war. The harbor of Santiago is as well protected as the Havana harbor, but is not so large. Nature has also done much for the harbors at Cien- fuegos and Matanzas and both are prominent shipping points for the exportation of sugar. There are now more than 150,000 tons of sugar stored in the ware- houses at the latter place. The harbor at Matanzas is an open one, but large vessels anchor in deep water about a mile from the wharf and have no difficulty in PEARL OF THE ANTILLES 155 loading and unloading from lighters. Like Havana, the city draws it water supply from springs, and, lying upon the side of a hill, it can be more easily drained. Captain Hay of the United States army, who was in charge of the military government as well as the cus- tom house at that place, says that Matanzas is now the cleanest city he has ever seen. He is also author- ity for the statement that the Cubans are law-abiding and very easy to get along with. There is near Matan- zas the famous valley of the Yumuri, an excellent view of which is obtained from the old church of Montserrat, situated on a high hill near the city. There is said to be no more beautiful view on the island, and for that matter it would be difficult to find a more pleasing one anywhere. The caves of Bellamar, about three miles from Matanzas, are also highly praised. The Isle of Pines, which lies just south of Cuba rtnd is still held by the United States, subject to final settlement by treaty, is said to be the healthiest of the West India islands. Much of the land of the island has been bought by Americans, and several En;if]ish- speaking communities have already been established there. THE BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC. "Viva Cuba Libre!" "Viva la Republica de Cuba!" These were the exclamations of delight and of patriotism with which the Cuban people greeted the 20th day of May, 1902, the day upon which the American government of intervention formally trans- ferred authority to the newly formed Cuban govern- ment. For days the city of Havana had been busy with preparations for the great event. Fifty thousand dol- lars had been contributed by the citizens and spent in decorations. Triumphal arches towered above the streets ; large Cuban flags floated from the flagstaf?s of the business blocks and little flags fluttered from bam- boo poles ; streamers covered the buildings and pa- triotic mottoes and pictures of dead heroes recalled the struggle of more than thirty years, so full of sacrifice and so replete with valor, just now culminating in a glorious victory. Everywhere were evidences of joy and exultation. From the time the president-elect landed at the wharf of Havana the people were in a state of sup- pressed excitement, impatiently waiting the hour for which they had looked and longed. The most notable event of the week preceding the inauguration was the banquet tendered by the Cuban veterans to Governor General Wood on Friday evening, May 16. General Maximo Gomez, the greatest of Cuban generals, the 156 BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 157 hero of the war for independence, the idol of the Cuban patriots and the trusted friend of tlie new presi- dent, sat at the head of the table. On his left was President-elect Tomas Estrada Palma and on his right General Leonard A. Wood. At the same table sat the principal military and civil officials of Cuba, mingled with the ofhcers of the United States army. The ban- quet tables were made to form a shield and occupied the entire floor of the Tacon Theatre, while the five galleries of that splendid auditorium were crowded with ladies and gentlemen in evening dress. The banqueters below and the spectators above presented a combination of bravery and beauty ever to be re- membered. General Gomez being a man of action rather than of words, called upon Senor Gonzalo de Quesada to act as toastmaster, and that the latter discharged his duty well was evident from the manner in which his introductions were greeted. Brief speeches were made by Senor Mario Garcia Kohly, General Fernando Freyre Andrade and myself. Then Governor General Wood was presented, and the entire audience arose and stood while he expressed in modest but felicitous language his appreciation of the courtesies shown him and his good wishes for the Cuban republic. It was an inspiring scene, the like of which has been rare in the world's history — the representative of a great and powerful government voluntarily surrendering into the hands of a comparatively small nation an authority that might have been withheld had the United States been actuated by the motives which control most na- tions that go to war. It was an act of magnanimity and 158 UNDER OTHER FLAGS of fidelity to principle that raised higher the flag about to be lowered — it was a moral victory more potent for good than any triumph of arms. General Wood has had a difficult task, and while mistakes have been made and an occasional criticism is heard, these are outweighed by the positive good that has been done. The Teller resolution, which was added to the resolution of intervention, contained the following words : "That the United States hereby disclaims any dis- position or intention to exercise sovereignty, jurisdic- tion or control over said island except for the pacifica- tion thereof, and asserts its determination, when that is accomplished, to leave the government and control of the island to its people." If any American citizen has regretted the making of that promise or has favored its violation he would have been converted had he attended the banquet given by the veterans on Friday evening. He would have learned that love is better than homage and that our nation enjoys a greater reward than it could possibly have secured by conquest or violence. On the Saturday night following the banquet General Wood gave a farewell reception in the same theatre, with President Palma as the guest of honor. An immense crowd was in attendance. On the same evening the leading Spanish society of the city cele- brated the coronation of Spain's young king by a grand ball in the Casino Espanol. Here, amid the waving of BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 159 Spanish flags and the perfume of tropical flowers, the €hte of the Spanish element met and drank the health of Alfonso XIII. At midnight on the 19th the bells rang, the en- gines and boats whistled, cannons fired and each per- son seemed to try to make more noise than his neigh- bor. From that time on, for several days the city was given over to rejoicing and to the heartiest manifesta- tions of delight. Firecrackers were exploded every- where, and that, too, with a recklessness that would have done credit to the American small boy. When the Spaniards evacuated Havana the beau- tiful statue of Queen Isabella, which stood in the cen- tre of the most prominent park, was taken down, but the pedestal was left standing. The Cubans, to signalize the change which had taken place in their government, secured a statue such as is used in the United States to represent the Goddess of Liberty and, on the forenoon of the 20th, this statue was placed up- on the pedestal. The crowds that surged by it noted and commented on the transformation that had taken place in the ideas for which their government stood. At night a light was placed in the uplifted hand of the goddess, and the Western Hemisphere beheld a new "Liberty, enlightening the world." As the hour of noon approached the human tide that had ebbed and flowed through the streets began to form a stream, and this stream, passing through Central Park, divided, one part going in the direction of the Palace, where the formal transfer of the govern- ment was to take place, and the other passing down the Prado to the point opposite Morro Castle. 160 UNDER OTHER FLAGS The American soldiers occupied the Placa de Armas just in front of the palace and kept clear the street between. The people filled all the other streets around, and looked down from windows and from the roofs of the neighboring buildings. In the reception room of the palace gathered those who by special invitation were permitted to witness the simple ceremony which preceded the retirement of General Wood and the inauguration of President Palma. The room was not a large one and the number of persons admitted did not exceed one hundred and fifty or two hundred. The members of the cabinet, members of the supreme court, members of the Cuban congress, the archbishop of Cuba and his escort, the governors of the various provinces, mayors, magis- trates, and a few officers of the American army and navy, with members of the diplomatic corps, news- paper men and less than a score of others gathered about the centre of the room. I found that but few Americans outside of the military and naval officials were present. Senator James K. Jones of Arkansas, chairman of the demo- cratic national committee; Senator Money of Missis- sippi and his son, Senator Mason of Illinois and wife, ex-Senator Thurston of Nebraska and wife. Congress- man DeArmond of Missouri, Governor Jennings of Florida, his wife and son, a few without title and the photographers represented unofficial America. That the United States, which appointed three special en- voys to witness the coronation of Edward VII. of England and one special envoy to witness the coron- BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 161 ation of Alfonso XIII, of Spain, had no envoy to tes- tify to the interest which our people felt in the birth of a republic whose very existence was due to American intervention, was a fact frequently commented upon by both Cubans and resident Americans. At about five minutes before twelve Governor General Wood and President-elect Tomas Estrada Palma took their positions in the center of the room. General Wood inquired for General Gomez, and a messenger having been sent to bring him from the rear of the room, he was asked to take a position next to the president. These three, together with the president's secretary, constituted the inner group. In a circle just outside this group stood Captain Scott, the adjutant general of the department of Cuba, the members of the supreme court, senate and congress and the archbishop, while crowding around these without regard to position were the remaining guests, each anxious to be near enough to hear the words spoken by the principal participants. Mrs. Palma and family stood a few feet to the rear of the president and General Wood, while General Wood's wife and the other ladies of the company occupied vantage ground near the windows. Just at twelve a cannon shot fired at one of the forts startled the audience. It was followed by another roar and then by another. Then the whistles of the ships lying at anchor in the harbor began to blow, and the crowd outside, thinking the transfer had taken place, commenced to cheer. In the midst of this babel of noise General Wood read a brief paper to President Palma, stating that in the name and by 162 UNDER OTHER FLAGS authority of the American government he relinquished authority over the island and surrendered it into the keeping of the new government to be administered in accordance with the constitution adopted by the people of Cuba and the Piatt amendment. He then read a letter from President Roosevelt extending con- gratulations to President Palma and expressing his good wishes for the success and prosperity of the re- public. General Wood then with a faltering voice as- sured President Palma of his appreciation of the courtesies shown him and of his sincere regard and good will for the new government and the Cuban peo- ple, and with this American occupation ended. The president read from manuscript, written in Spanish his acceptance of the responsibilities of the office and, speaking for his government, promised to fulfill the terms imposed. Then in English he replied in a few heartfelt words to General Wood's farewell. General Wood extended his hand and, after a cordial greeting, the president turned to the chief justice, took the oath of office and then modestly received and acknowledged the congratulations showered upon him. As soon as General Wood ceased speaking the 'American flag on the palace was lowered and the Cuban flag raised in its place amid the acclamation of the multitude. Simultaneously with the lowering of the flag on the palace building the flags that floated from the other government buildings were hauled down and Cuban flags quickly substituted for them. The crowd at the end of the Prado raised a mighty shout when the stars and stripes on Morro Castle came down and the single-star Cuban flag was flung BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 163 to the breeze ; and yet, happy as they were, there was a touch of sadness in their rejoicing, for they had come to love the American flag. A member of the com- mission charged with the changing of the flags on Morro Castle — that grim fortress that had been the scene of so much cruelty and bloodshed — told me that when the American flag was lowered the Cuban sol- diers stationed at that place rushed forward and caught it up, saying that it must not be allowed to touch the ground — they even pressed its folds to their lips. The Americans present were deeply touched by the affection displayed, and well they might be. As soon as the ceremonies were completed at the palace General Wood and his staff officers, accom- panied by the president, his cabinet, the members of the court and congress, and other officials, marched behind the escort to the wharf. The Spanish word "viva," which means "live," is used in the same way as our word "hurrah," and as the procession moved toward the boat the crowd waved and cheered "Viva General Wood," "Viva Presidente Palma," "Viva la Republica Americana," "Viva Cuba libre." All were proposed and given with equal fervor. In fact, the good will entertained for the Americans was apparent on every hand, no partialitv being shown in the salu- tations and exclamations. Having seen the Americans safely aboard the Brooklyn, which carried General Wood and his staff, and the Morro Castle, which carried the soldiers, President Palma and his cabinet returned to the pal- ace and held a consultation ; but the people lingered 164 UNDER OTHER FLAGS on the Prado until the ships passed through the chan- nel out into the sea and then waved a farewell to the government that had entered Cuba as a friend, with- stood the temptations which come with the exercise of power and, as soon as a stable government was estab- lished removed the flag from the island, only to leave it enshrined in the hearts of the people. President Palma is small in statue, but large in experience, capacity and patriotism. He is a man of education, refinement and wide acquaintance. He took part in the war of 1868, and was one of the early presidents of the government then formed. He was taken prisoner and was in a Spanish fortress when the treaty of 1878 was signed. His release was finally secured at the request of the republic of Hon- duras, where he had resided for a few years ; but he had no faith in the promises made by Spain, and when he left the prison it was with the determination not to return to Cuba until she was an independent nation. After a brief so- journ in Honduras, where he married the daughter of the president of that republic, he moved to the United States and located at Central Valley, N. Y. There he established his home and reared his family, occupying his time and securing some income by teaching school. When he entered the war for inde- pendence a large estate which he owned was con- fiscated by the Spanish government, and this was aft- erward offered to him if he would return to Cuba and take the oath of allegiance, but he was so earnest in his desire to secure Cuban independence that he de- clined. BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 165 He was, however, in constant communication with the people of the island, and when the new in- surrection was started in 1895 he became the head of the American junta, and it was largely through his wise and persistent efforts that the people of the United States were brought to understand the condi- tion of affairs in the island. He is called from his long exile to be crowned with the honor of being Cuba's first chief executive. I have become sufficiently acquainted with the man to be convinced of his greatness and goodness, and in congratulating him I expressed the hope, which I believe to be well founded, that his influence upon his people may be as far-reaching and as potent for good as the influence exerted by our first president upon the American people. The president has selected a strong and represen- tative cabinet ; Carlos Zaldo of Havana will be min- ister of state and justice. He is a leader of the radi- cal wing of the democratic-republican party, which opposed adoption of the Piatt amendment to the con- stitution of Cuba and opposed Palma for president un- til his oppcr'^nt (Masso) had withdrawn from the race. Senor Zaldo i^ a lawyer and member of the Cuban-American banking house of Zaldo & Co. The minister of the interior will be Dr. Tamayo, a doctor and member of the nationalist or military party (headed by General Maximo Gomez) from which both Brooke and Wood drew most of their cabinet material. Dr. Tamayo is a cousin to President 166 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Palma. He is the only member of General Wood's regime retained in office by the new executive in malfing up his cabinet. Minister of Finance Garcia Montes, republican, is a lawyer and friend of General Mendez-Capote, un- der whom he served as a sub-secretary in the Brooke cabinet. Montes' appointment to the head of the finance department under the new republic is attribut- ed almost solely to the personal influence of Capote. The latter voted for the Piatt amendment. The minister of agriculture, commerce and in- dustries will be Emilo Terry, the millionaire sugar planter of central Cuba. He is also one of the lead- ing bankers of Cienfuegos. Minister of Public Instruction Eduardo Yero is a disciple of Jose Marti, former editor of the junta newspaper "Patria," in New York city; recently con- nected with the Cuban school system as a superinten- dent under Commissioners Frye and Hanna, He is a man of excellent educational qualifications. Minister of Public Works Manuel Luciano Diaz is a Spaniard, and engineer and former railway super- intendent. That the people of Cuba are capable of self-gov- ernment is not a question open for dispute. Henry Clay declared, in his defence of the independence of the South American republics, that God never made a people incapable of self-government ; that it was the doctrine of thrones and a reflection on Jehovah to say that He created people incapable of self-government and left them to the government of kings and emperors. Clay's logic is sound. Capacity for government is BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 167 not a thing to be acquired or to be bestowed ; it is in- herent in the people. As individuals differ in wisdom, in self-restraint and in moral character, so nations differ, but it cannot be said that any nation has reached perfection in the science of government or in the art of administration ; neither can it be said that any nation is so low down in the scale of civilization that it needs a foreign master. When Jefferson was invited to suggest laws for a French colony which lo- cated in the United States early in the nineteenth cen- tury, he declined, and gave as his reason that laws were the outgrowth of the history and habits of the people and that no alien could be sufficiently in sym- pathy with, or sufficiently informed about, a people to make their laws for them. Self-government is in itself a developing process and growth in capacity comes with the exercise of human rights under self-govern- ment. But one who visits Cuba and becomes acquaint- ed with the people need not rest the case upon ab- stract principles, for he is convinced by observation that the Cubans not only have the right to govern themselves but also have the ability to do so. That they will make mistakes is certain, but have we not made mistakes in the United States? That they may some- times resort to violence instead of reason is possible, but have we not done so in the United States? It is even possible that the island may occasionally be the scene of civil war, but have we not had civil war in the United States? The child will stuiTible and fall in its effort to walk, but is there any other means b\ which it can learn to walk? 168 UNDER OTHER FLAGS Cuban independence will not give the people a government free from fault, but it will give them a government as good as they deserve to have — a gov- ernment that will improve as the people themselves make progress in virtue and intelligence. Free gov- ernment does not mean that each citizen will have just such a government as he wants; it simply means that the people will have such a government as the ma- jority desire, and that each individual can present his views to his fellows with the confidence that what- ever is best for all will ultimately prevail. Several important questions will require imme- diate consideration. The question of sanitation will, of course, receive the attention of the new govern- ment ; for Cuba cannot afford to be shut out from the outside world, and it cannot expect communication between the island and the United States unless that communication can be carried on without risk of dis- ease. Education is a problem of the first magnitude. While private and parochial schools can do much, the public schools must place education within the reach of every child and thus fit all for more intelli- gent participation in the affairs of the government. The deep and widespread interest already manifested in the improvement of school facilities gives great encouragement for the future. It should be the policy of the government to en- courage home building and home owning. Until hu- man nature is entirely changed men will give better care and cultivation to land which they own than to BIRTH OF THE CUBAN REPUBLIC 168 land which they rent. The stimulus that one finds in the sense of proprietorship is indispensable to the highest effort. To this end the growth of great estates should be discouraged and a wider distribution of the land encouraged. Saving should also be encouraged and to this end government savings banks would be useful. The government must be careful to avoid the evils of private monopoly. Man is too frail to be in- trusted with the power which a monopoly gives, and the president and his advisers should be on their guard against the dangers which come with the grant- ing of franchises and concessions for the control of any branch of business. The government of interven- tion has reserved to the Cuban government the right to cancel and annul all franchises granted during the temporary occupancy of the island. It will thus be within the power of the permanent government to make such conditions and impose such restrictions as may seem necessary, and it is to be hoped that means will be taken at once to protect the rights of the people. In the procession which escorted President-elect Palma to his home when he retured from exile, a number of Cuban ladies represented the republics of the Western Hemisphere, the United States being the eldest, Cuba the youngest of the group. It reminded me of the great banyan tree under which our party rested for a moment as we passed through Key West ; for are not these republics much like the banyan tree? Free government was planted upon American soil a century and a quarter ago ; it grew and sent forth its 170 UNDER OTHER FLAGS influence like branches in every direction, and these branches taking root now support the parent tree ; beneath the influence of these repubHcs, separate in their government and yet united in their aspirations an ever-increasing multitude finds shelter and pro- tection. Long live the national banyan tree — the American republics ! , Patriotism Address delivered by Mr. Bryan at the banquet given by the Cuban Veterans to Governor General Wood and his staff, Friday evening, May 16, 1902 Patriotism. Mr. Toastmaster, Ladies and Gentleman: I es- teem it a great privilege and a high honor to be in- vited to participate in this memorable occasion. I am not here to represent the government of the United States. The distinguished soldier and citizen who has represented the American government upon the island with so much ability and success is present to represent my country in an official capacity; but as an American citizen I can congratulate you upon the realization of your hopes, and as an Amerian citizen I can give expression to the pride that I feel at the fact that our soldiers and official representatives have conducted themselves so well that the Cuban veterans tender them this complimentary dinner and express so much of gratitude and of good will. When asked to respond to the toast, I could think of no better sentiment than "Patriotism." Of what other sentiment could I think at a ban- quet given by the veterans of the Cuban army and in the presence of the great soldier (General Gomez) who sits at the head of the table tonight, and in the presence of Cuba's favorite son, Senor Estrada Palma, who is to enjoy the honor of being the first chief exec- utive of this republic. The word "patriotism" has been translated into every language and its spirit has been exhibited to a greater or less extent in every land, but nowhere has 178 174 UNDER OTHER FLAGS more patriotism been shown than in this beautiful isle of the sea, where liberty and independence have been purchased by so much blood and sacrifice. You may well be pardoned for feeling an exultation too deep for expression and in that exultation my country- men fully share ; and yet I would be less than a friend if I failed to suggest that there are victories before you even greater than the victories already won. The work of self-government is a continuous work and one that taxes both the patience and the energy of the citizen. Under an arbitrary govern- ment where the monarch thinks and acts for the sub- ject, the subject may be indifferent and indolent, but in a republic where the governments rests upon the consent of the governed there is no place for sloth- fulness. Patriotism is a virtue which must be displayed in peace as well as in war, and may be defined as that love of country which leads the citizen to give to his country that which his country needs at the time his country needs it. In time of war the citizen may be called upon to die for his country; in time of peace he must live for his country. In time of war he may be called upon to give his body as a sacrifice; in time of peace his country demands his head and his heart, his intellect and his conscience.You have shown that you were willing to lay down your lives in order to purchase liberty, now you will be called upon to exhibit self-restraint and moral courage in dealing with the problems of government. It is written that he who ruleth his own spirit is greater than he that taketh a city. It is too much to PATRIOTISM 175 expect that all things will be done as anyone would like to have them done or that everyone will receive the reward of which he and his friends may think him deserving; and in hours of disappointment it is well to remember that a person can show more patriotism by suffering for a great cause than by enjoying great rewards. In time of war your island was divided and there was much bitterness between those who fought for independence and those who supported the authority of Spain. Now that you are about to enter upon the enjoyment of the blessings of self-government it should be your purpose to heal all the wounds and to unite the people in a common destiny. If there be those who would prefer the sovereignty of Spain to an experiment in self-government, do not abuse them, but convert them to the doctrines of free government by showing them the superiority of a republic. It may even be an advantage to those in power to have some citizens who are skeptical and ready to criticise, for it will make public officials more careful of their conduct. Jefferson declares that free government exists in jealousy rather than in confidence, and it is certainly true that public servants are most faithful when their acts are under constant scrutiny. One of the questions with which you will have to deal is that of public education and you will find it of advantage to lay for your republic a broad and deep foundation by providing for universal education. The citizen will appreciate the advantages of free government in proportion as his mental horizon is en- larged and his capacity for usefulness increased. 176 UNDER OTHER FLAGS No one is wise enough to act as a censor in mat- ters of education and select those who are to be sent to school. No one can say upon which child of to- day the responsibilities of the next generation will fall, hence the nation will find its security in fitting the largest possible number for full participation in all that concerns the nation's welfare. You rejoice tonight that our nation is going to keep its promise and give the world an example of fidelity to a public trust, and yet it is a cause of con- gratulation to us as much as to you, for we had more to lose than you if we failed to keep the pledge made at the beginning of the Spanish war. I believe that the citizens of our country are as happy as you over the successful outcome of your heroic struggle; they will rejoice in all the good fortune that comes to you and they will grieve over any mistake that you may make. They appreciate the gratitude which you express, but they find their reward in the good they have been able to accomplish, for life's happiness is not measured by the gifts which one receives, but by the contribution which he makes to the welfare of his fellows. Let me borrow a story which has been used to illustrate the position of the United States: A man wended his way through the streets of a great city. Unmindful of the merchandise exposed on every hand he sought out a store where birds were kept for sale. Purchasing bird after bird he opened the cages and allowed the feathered songsters to fly away. When PATRIOTISM 177 asked why he thus squandered his money, he replied: "I was once a captive myself and I find pleasure in setting even a bird at liberty." The United States once went through the strug- gle from which you have just emerged; the American people once by the aid of a friendly power won a victory similar to that which you are now celebrat- ing, and our people find gratification in helping to open the door that barred your way to the exercise of your political rights. I have come to witness the lowering of our flag and the raising of the flag of the Cuban republic ; but the event will bring no humiliation to the people of my country, for it is better that the stars and stripes should be indelibly impressed upon your hearts than that they should float above your heads Mexico The article describing the first visit to Mexico was written for and copyrighted by the New York World, and is reproduced by courtesy of that newspaper. The article describing the second visit was written for The Commoner, MEXICO. The First Visit. The reading which I did preparatory to my visit to Mexico revealed to me how little I had known of the history of that country, past and current. In this connection I acknowledge my indebtedness to Senor Romero, the Mexican Minister at Washington, for advanced proofs of his book just issuing from the press, descriptive of Mexico at the present time. Senor Romero, besides being a student of great industry and research, is thoroughly familiar with our language, and his book will be of great value to both republics in that it gives to the people of the United States full and authentic information with regard to our neigh- bor on the south. The readers of The World may be interested in a brief reference to some of the facts which came under my observation during a three weeks' stay in the land of the Aztecs. I found : First — That Mexico is a delightful place to visit. Travel on the main lines is as safe, as comfortable and as cheap as in the United States. The City of Mexico is within four days' ride of Kansas City, and can be reached by three routes. The Mexican National leaves the Rio Grande at Laredo, the International at Eagle Pass and the Mexican Central at El Paso. The weather is dry and pleasant during the win- 181 182 UNDER OTHER FLAGS ter months, and the temperature high enough to be inviting to those who find the cold of the North too rigorous. The descent from the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz can be made between sunrise and sunset, and in the course of the day the traveller has an op- portunity to compare the flora of two zones. As both the Mexican and the Interoceanic Railroads con- nect the capital with this seaport, the tourist is en- abled to vary the scenery without loss of time. The new railroad which is building from the City of Mex- ico to Acapulco rises twenty-five hundred feet a'.most within sight of the City of Mexico, and then drops five thousand feet to Cuernavaca, the present terminus. The three snow-crowned peaks, Popocata- petl and Izteccihuatl and Orizaba, are mag- nificent mountains. Popocatapetl and Iztecci- huatl are near the City of Mexico . The first- named, the largest of the three, presents the best view from Cuernavaca. All three can be seen from a point on the Interoceanic road, near Pueblo. Cathe- drals built before the landing of the Pilgrims, huge public buildings, differing entirely in architecture from our own ; unique Chapultepec, a national art gal- lery filled with rare and valuable paintings, and a museum containing innumerable relics of a civiliza- tion which antedates the discovery of the continent by Europeans — all these combine to interest and in- struct. Second — That while our nation has more inhabi- tants, covers more territory and possesses greater wealth, we cannot surpass the Mexicans in hospi- MEXICO— FIRST VISIT 183 tality or in the courtesy which they extend to strangers. Third — ^That the Mexican authorities entertain a very friendly feeling towards the citizens of the United States, and heartily desire a continuation of the amic- able relations now existing between the two nations. Fourth — That Mexico is as firm as the United States in the support of the Monroe doctrine, having realized only thirty years ago the dangers attendant upon an attempt to extend monarchical institutions upon the western hemisphere. Fifth — That President Diaz is entirely deserving of the enconiums bestowed upon him by his own peo- ple, by resident Americans and by visitors. He has a genius for public affairs, understands the conditions and needs of his people, and has their confidence to a degree seldom enjoyed by an executive, either her- editary or elective. While the advantages of a stable government are now so generally recognized that his death or resignation would not disturb the existing order of things, yet his qualifications have been so amply proved and his administration so completely successful that his people are unanimous in the hope that he may yet enjoy many years of official life. Hidalgo, the warrior priest, who led the move- ment which resulted in independence, is called the Mexican Washington; Juarez, who successfully de- fended his country against Maxmilian, was the secondl great Mexican leader of the Nineteenth century;] President Diaz, himself a brave general, by restoring) order, establishing the supremacy of the civil law andJ 184 UNDER OTHER FLAGS perfecting the system of public education, has earned for himself, and will enjoy in history, a place by the side of Hidalgo and Juarez. Sixth — ^That the public men of Mexico are not in- ferior to our own in intelligence, education and gen- eral information. Senor Mariscal, secretary of foreign affairs, adds to great ability a long experience as a dip- lomat, and is worthy of comparison with the pre- miers of the leading nations of the world. Senor Limantaur, secretary of finance, is a most accom- plished gentlman and has exhibited superior skill in the management of the fiscal affairs of the republic. The other cabinet officers, governors, members of the national and state congresses, mayors etc., whom I met were, without exception, men of refinement and scholarly attainments. Seventh — That the English language is being taught more and more extensively each year, and is now understood and spoken by most of the public men or by members of their families. I was in- formed that a majority of the members of the federal congress could understand a speech delivered in our language. The leading hotels and stores have clerks who can speak English, so that travel and traffic are made easy. Eighth — Mexico is making substantial progress in education. The public schools are free and atten- dance is compulsory. The president and those asso- ciated with him in authority are putting forth every possible effort to improve the system of instruction and to bring all the children under the influence of MEXICO— FIRST VISIT 185 the school-teacher. As an illustration, in the state of Mexico the number of schools has increased more than 100 per cent, within the last ten years, and the number of pupils in attendance shows an equal in- crease. The girls and boys enter school upon an equal footing, and the ambition of the pupil is stimulated by the offer of rewards for merit. It was our good fortune to be invited to witness the distribution of prizes for the schools of the Fed- eral District. Nothing impressed me more than the scene here presented. President Diaz delivered the awards to several hundred boys and girls. The In- dian and the Spaniard, the rich and the poor, all min- gle together in the public schools and vie with each other for the prizes. The state not only furnishes in- struction in the elementary branches, but provides in- dustrial training for both boys and girls, normal schools for teachers and professional schools for stu- dents of law and medicine. President Diaz recently quoted a remark made by Von Moltke in praise of the German school-teacher and also pointed out the necessity for educated mothers. He recognizes, as did Jefferson, that popular education is vital in a re- public, and largely through his efforts Mexico sees a yearly increase in the number of those who are capa- ble of intelligent participation in government. Ninth — That the free coinage of silver is entirely satisfactory to the people of Mexico. They have had a chance to test the system thoroughly and to com- pare it with the systems of the United States, En- gland, France and Germany, and I found no disposi- 18^ UNDER OTHER FLAGS tion either among the officials or among the people to favor the gold standard. The Federal Government pays about six millions annually on gold obligations, and while it is compelled to collect over twelve mil- lions in silver to cover this interest account, it has no difficulty in doing so, because of the prosperous condition of the nation's industries. The Government is not only meeting its expenses, but has a surplus. In Mexico the producers of wealth have not encount- ered the disastrous fall in prices which has afflicted all the gold-standard countries since 18T3. While ex- change has fluctuated, the fluctuation has only affected foreign trade, and that fluctuation, while of small im- portance when compared with the great advantage of maintaining the level of prices, will entirely disap- pear when the parity between gold and silver is re- stored. I found quite a number of ^^lexicans who went so far as to express the hope that the United States would continue the gold standard because of the ad- vantage which ^lexican manufacturers find in a high rate of exchange, but the majority of the people with whom I talked desire the restoration of bimetallism in the United States in order that stability in exchange may be added to stability in prices. The United States has had the gold standard for twenty-three years, and the system has proved so un- satisfacton.- that at the last election six million and a half of voters expressed a desire for independent bi- metallism, while seven millions cast their votes for candidates pledged to international bimetallism. The MEXICO— FIRST VISIT 181 gold standard has been so disastrous that even a Re- publican Administration is asking foreign nations to help us to get rid of it. The people of ^Mexico could adopt the gold standard if they desired to do so, and yet no considerable number of them wish to abandon silver. Tenth — That Mexico is more prosperous today than every before. Her industries are increasing in number and importance. Near Orizaba is a cotton mill of immense proportions. The company operates eighteen thousand looms and seventy thousand spin- dles. The plant has earned more than 16 per cent, a 3'ear on the capital stock during the last five years, has been enlarged at the rate of more than 10 per cent, per annum during that time, and the com- pany is preparing to add five hundred looms and twelve thousand spindles this year. At San Luis Potosi I found a cotton factory owned by an Ameri- can. The proprietor told me that he had been enlarg- ing his plant and found the business profitable. I went through a new cotton factory at Monterey and learned of a large mill now under construction at Guadalajara. There are a number of cotton mills also in the neighl^nrhood of Pueblo. The manufacture of woollen goods, the manufac- ture of hats, the mamnacture of boots and shoes and the brewing of beer are all growing industries. The silk industry is in its infancy, but a Frenchman has planted over three million mulberrj^ trees in the State of Guanajuato within the last few years and is much encouraged over the success thus far achieved. I vis- 188 UNDER OTHER FLAGS ited a silk factory which he had recently opened in the suburbs of the City of Mexico. The premium on gold has acted as a wall to keep out foreign competition and at the same time has giv- en a substantial bounty upon exports. While I was in Mexico the gold premium varied from $1.05 to $1.15, and I shall therefore take $1.10 as an average. In 1873 the Mexican dollar commanded a premium of about three cents over our gold dollar. At that time a yard of cloth worth a dollar in the United States or Europe, when imported by Mexico, would be worth about 97 cents in Mexican money, plus transportation and tariff. Now, with gold at a premium of $1.10, a yard of cloth worth a dollar in the United States or Europe is worth $2.10 in Mexican money, plus trans- portation and tariff. Where the gold price has fallen one half, the Mexican price is about the same that it was in 1873. On the other hand, those who export from Mexico have a great advantage over competitors living in gold-standard countries. For instance, a coffee raiser in Mexico, because of the rise in exchange, has fared much better than the planter who has cultivated coffee on a goid basis and who has found his income di- minishing- while his debts and fixed charges refused to fall. One of the gold men of my own State has laid aside his political scruples sufficiently to invest in a large tract of land near Tampico, upon which he is planting the coffee berry. He is not the only Ameri- can citizen who is seeking in Mexico the prosperity for which he voted in the United States. MEXICO— FIRST VISIT 189 The cotton mills of Mexico now consume more cotton than Mexico produces, but the acreage is in- creasing. If, as some expect, they find it possible to produce upon Mexican soil all the cotton needed by their mills, the Mexicans will become dangerous com- petitors of the gold-standard countries. At present they are handicapped by having to import so large a proportion of their raw material. In reply to the argument that is sometimes made, namely, that we can protect our manufacturers by still higher duties, I contend that we can only do so by increasing the dis- advantage under which American farmers now labor. The lot of our farmer is hard enough when the price of what he buys falls in the same proportion as the price of his own product, because even then his taxes, debts and other fixed charges do not fall. If, however, we maintain the price of manufactured goods by a high tariff, the burdens of the farmer will be so in- creased as to make his ultimate bankruptcy certain. I might mention in this connection that I found many of our protected manufacturers selling their wares in Mexico in competition with their European rivals. At one store I found lamps and lamp chim- neys made in Missouri, hammers and shovels made in Philadelphia, cutlery made in Massachusetts, also Yale locks ; Disston saws and hinges made in the United States. California wines and canned fruits and Chicago canned meats find a market in Mexico. At Guanajuato is a theatre, recently completed, the structural iron of which came from the United States. At several places I saw electrical apparatus of Ameri- 190 UNDER OTHER FLAGS an construction. In many instances an additional dis- count is given by American manufacturers upon ex- ported goods. Eleventh — That wages are not only higher on an average than ever before, but still rising. Progress or retrogression can be determined only by comparing the present with the past. The condition of the lab- oring classes in Mexico can be improved, but it is a fact that they are in better condition than they were in 1873, when the Mexican dollar was worth more than our gold dollar, and I believe that their condition is much better today than it would have been if Mexico had adopted the gold standard when the United States did. It is not fair to compare the wages in one country with the wages in another country with- out first making allowance for differences in effic- iency, differences in climatic conditions, differences in habits, &c. Even within the boundaries of our own country there are differences too great to be ignored. During President Harrison's Administration Secretary Rusk issued a document entitled, "Wages of Farm Labor in the United States" (Report No. 4, year 1893). Page 16 of this report contains a table showing that in 1893 the average wages for farm labor (without board) was $12.50 per month in South Carolina, $13.30 in North Carolina, $13.50 in Georgia and $13.75 in Alabama, while in California the wages paid were $36.50 and in the State of Washington $37.50, the average for all the states for that year being $18.60. For farm labor, with board, the wages varied from $8.40 to $25 and averaged $12.54. MEXICO— FIRST VISIT 191 The report says that white farm labor in the United States received $282 per annum ; that the same labor received about $150 in Great Britain and $90 in Germany. I refer to this report beause it was issued by Republican authority and shows that under the operation of the same financial system and the same tariff system farm labor received three times as much in one part of the Union as it did in another part. When it is remembered that the wages paid in each state were ascertained by averages, it will be seen that the differencebetweenthe best-paid labor and the poorest-paid labor is still greater. The report also shows that in the United States Caucasian farm labor receives more than three times as much as the same labor receives in Germany, although both countries have a gold standard and a protetive tariff. Between 1816 and 1834 England had a gold standard and the United States had a double standard, with silver as the money in common use, and yet laboring men were bet- ter off here than in England. Turkey is one of the gold-standard nations, and Japan, until recently, coined silver at a ratio almost identical with ours, and yet the progress of Japan was so great that Mr. Cleveland commented upon it in a message during his second term. The gold-standard advocate who would consider it unfair to compare Japan and Turkey does not hesitate to blame silver for the low wages of the peons of Mexico. In all the leading cities of Mexico can be found people from the United States, England, Germany and France — all drawn from gold-standard countries by 192 UNDER OTHER FLAGS the advantages offered in Mexico. Few have gone from the United States to Canada, where they have the gold standard and speak the English language, but in Mexico, where an American citizen is compelled to learn an entirely new language, there are already sev- eral American colonies, and the number is constantly increasing. Some are in business for themselves, some working for wages, and they stay there, although they are at liberty to return whenever they see an oppor- tunity to better their condition in the United States. Twelfth — Real estate is rising in Mexico. Public and private improvements are in progress. Guadalajara one of the largest cities of the republic and surpassed by none in beauty, has recently decided to put in a complete system of sewerage and water-works. The work of constructing the sewers was let to a New Jersey contractor last month. Monterey has recently laid considerable brick pavement and the capital has nearly completed a sewerage tunnel through a moun- tain range. Electricity is taking the place of the old- time street lantern, the shoe is gradually supplanting the sandal and the coat is winning against the serape. It would be unfair to give to Mexico's financial policy credit for all the progress which the country has made in the last twenty-five years. Her Government and her Government officials have contributed much to her development by giving security to life, protection to property and stimulus to education. If the advo- cates of the gold standard insist that her financial sys- tem has been a hindrance and that she has gone for- ward not because of it but in spite of it, I reply that MEXICO— FIRST VISIT 199 my observation, as well as my reason, leads me to be- lieve that the use of silver has been of material advan- tage to Mexico, and I am more than ever convinced that the best interests of our own people demand the immediate restoration of the free and unlimited coin- age of gold and silver at the present legal ratio of 16 to 1 without waiting for the aid or consent of any other nation. Mexico is not strong enough to maintain the par- ity between the metals, but the people of the United States are. Mexico has by the use of silver avoided the fall in prices, but has suffered to a certain extent from the fluctuations in exchange. By opening our mints to the free coinage of silver we too shall escape from falling prices, and, by maintaining the parity, we shall, in addition, avoid fluctuation in exchange. OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO. Second Visit. Have you ever visited the land of the Aztecs? If not you have a treat in store for you. And even those who have been there before find themselves unable to resist the temptation to return occasionally to enjoy again the fascinating beauty of the scenery and to note the progress which the young republic to the south of us is making. Having spent the holidays in Mexico I feel that the reader will pardon me for devoting a few columns to the subject — even more, he will expect it. Nowhere in the world can the tourist find so much variety in so limited a territory, and no country ofifers to the Ameri- can so much of interest and of education at so small an expense. The Aztec ruins alone would repay a visit. They furnish conclusive proof of a civilization far in advance of that reached by the Indians farther north. Relics are being dug up constantly. We brought back to confound the republicans an Aztec god with gold and silver ornaments, showing that both metals were appreciated by the native Americans before the republican party was organized. There is about sixteen times as much silver as gold on the idol. While in the hot country near Tierra Blancha we dug into a mound and found numerous pieces of crockery and parts of figures. 194 OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 195 The Santa Fe railroad makes connections at Mil- ano, Tex., with the International, and that road pass- ing through Austin and San Antonio connects with the Mexican National at Laredo. The Mexican Na? tional is the main line to Monterey, the most Ameri- can of the Mexican cities, situated only 168 miles from the Rio Grande. Saltillo, the capital of Coahuila, one of the richest of the mining states, San Luis Potosi, one of the largest cities of the republic, Toluca, the progressive capital of the state of Mexico — the state out of which the federal district was carved — these are the main cities on this line between Monterey and the City of Mexico. The trip from the border to the capital traverses every variety of country from plain to valley and mountain. Among the principal large cities near the City of Mexico may be named Guadala- jara, in the west central portion, one of the prettiest cities to be found anywhere; Aguas Callietes, named for the hot springs there; Guanajuato, which is noted for having one of the oldest silver mines, one of the handsomest theatres and the largest collection of mummies to be found on the continent, and Cuerna- vaca, just south of the City of Mexico, always of in- terest to tourists because of the private residence of Cortez, and now becoming famous as a health resort. Popocatapetl, one of the tallest peaks on this hemi- sphere, is seen to advantage from the Cuernavaca road. The ride from the City of Mexico to Vera Cruz over the Mexican railroad, begins at an elevation of 7,348 feet. The ride up to Esperanza, 700 feet above. 196 UNDER OTHER FLAGS is through the valley of Mexico, where the main crops are wheat and corn. From the car window one can draw a contrast between the old methods and the new, for some still use horses to tramp out the wheat, while a few employ the American-made thrash- ing machine. Here, too, the old plow closely resem- bling the crooked stick and drawn by oxen is fight- ing against the innovation of the modern plow. In this great valley the maguey plant is also a conspicuous feature. The various fields are often sep- arated by rows of the maguey, and where the fields are small the picture presented is an exceedinly at- tractive one. The maguey furnishes a variety of products — mescal, a kind of alcoholic drink used in the lower altitudes, is made from the roots of this plant, while pulque, the life-blood of the plant, the great drink of the plateau, is drawn from it at its ma- turity. Pulque looks like milk when dilulted with water, and, when fresh, smells like yeast. It is car- ried in pig skins, and carloads of it find their way into the City of Mexico every morning. It will produce a genuine case of intoxication, and the habit when once formed is as hard to cure as the whisky habit. On New Year's day we visited a hacienda in the suburbs of the City of Mexico owned by General John B . Frisby, an American, who went to Mexico several years ago and who is now identified with many large business enter- prises. Our atttention was called to a dog there which had acquired a taste for pulque. He goes to the field twice a day and finds some maguey plant from which pulque is being extracted (the period of OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 197 extraction covers several weeks) and gets his dram, and then he staggers back with red eyes and sleeps off the effect of the liquor. He has ceased to be of value as a shepherd dog, but he is still useful as a horrible example. A part of the Frisby ranch has been converted into a dairy very successfully conducted by a man from Missouri who has imported into the country a large number of Jersey, Holstein and Brown Swiss cows. The dairy is a model of cleanliness and has proved profitable to its owners. But I digress. After leaving Esperanza the des- cent to Vera Cruz on the gulf, 112 miles distant, is begun. During the first seventeen miles of this trip the descent (to Maltrata) is about 2,500 feet and the scenery beautiful beyond description. From Maltrata to Orizaba the distance is only thirteen miles, but the descent is something over 1,500 feet. From Orizaba the descent is a little more gradual, the fall of 1,300 feet being distributed over sixteen miles. At Cor- dova one sees tropical vegetation in all its luxuriance — oranges, pine-apples, bananas, coffee, all at one time, and in the distance the snow-clad summit of Orizaba which rises nearly 17,370 feet above the level of the ocean. From Cordova a new line called the Vera Cruz and Pacific, or as it is sometimes known, the Mason line, is just being completed to the isthmus. A branch from Tierra Blancha to Vera Cruz makes this a trans- continental line, and the improvement of the harbor at Vera Cruz will probably give it a considerable portion of the business across the isthmus. It also opens up 198 UNDER OTHER FLAGS fertile sugar, rice and grazing lands in southern Mexico. West of the village of Tierra Blancha, just across the Amapa river, in the state of Oaxaca, we visited a rubber tree plantation. It was projected by Alfred Bishop Mason, a Chicago business man, but the work of development has fallen to his nephews, Raymond Willis and James Trowbridge, the former a graduate of the Boston Polytechnic and the latter of Yale. These young men began about three years ago the clearing of about four hundred acres of tropical forest, so dense that it was difficult to secure any accurate idea of the lay of the land. They now have about 300,000 rubber trees growing, the oldest two and a half years old. It will be four or five years before the plantation begins to yield a return, but there is at this time every promise of success. If the experiment rea- lizes the hopes of the young men they will deserve the reward that they will secure for they will not only make a fortune out of mother earth, but they will show others what can be accomplished in the de- velopment of this industry and thus become public benefactors. This well illustrates the difference be- tween wealth created by the establishment of some new industry and wealth absorbed by trading or spec- ulation. For two years Willis and Trowbridge lived in a hut thatched with palm leaves, but last spring they began the erection of a commodious stone house, with wide and airy porches, and to this newly completed residence the former has recently brought his bride, a OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 199 Wellesley graduate, to preside over this new center oi American civilization. Near Hacienda Yale, as this new plantation ia called, is a low wooded mountain range, where as I was assured by Mr. Julio Tardos, who has a cattle ranch near, parrots, monkeys and even tigers can be found in their native haunts. But this I can only report from hearsay, for I did not have time to hunt .parrots or monkeys and was not disposed to infringe upon the patent of those who find relief from the cares of state in the pursuit of the larger and more ferocious wild animals. The history of Mexico reads like a novel. Prescott's description of its conquest by Cortez could hardly be credited but for the confirmation which one finds on every hand. The toilsome march from the seashore to the table-land, the in- trigues with jealous tribes, the hair-breath escapes, the explorations and the advanced Indian civilization found — all these make Prescott's volumes intensely interesting. Senor Romero has brought the history down to date in two volumes issued by Putnam &. Co., of New York, books that ought to be studied by every American. Nearly a hundred years ago the people of Mexico, part Spanish and part Indian, took up the fight for independence and, unaided, secured a separate politi- cal existence. This ended Spain's reign of three cen- turies beginning with the Conquest, during which time that mother country had given to Mexico a language and a religion, and had taken from Mexico about > 200 UNDER OTHER FLAGS everything valuable that could be extracted from soil or people. Following independence came an era oJ frequent revolutions, although they were for the most part accompanied by but little bloodshed. Among the political leaders whose careers illus- trate the ups and downs of political ambition, Santa Ana was conspicuous. Sometimes he was in author- ity; sometimes he was fleeing from a successful op- ponent. At one time he lost a limb in battle, and as it was during one of his periods of victory the severed limb was buried with great pomp and ceremony. When he again suffered defeat and his opponent came into possession of the government the burled limb was resurrected, it is said, and despitefully kicked through the streets of the city. (I have sympathized with Santa Ana sometimes when I have been buried by the republicans and then exhumed for purposes of criti- cism.) The Mexican war brought the people of the United States and the people of Mexico into sharp antagonism for a little while, but the animosities en- gendered at that time have passed away, and there is now the most cordial feeling between the Mexicans and the Americans. This is partially due to the fact that the United States was largely instrumental in helping to rescue Mexico from European domination when, under the pretense of collecting a debt, Maxi- millian came over from Austria and declared himself emperor. He came while our civil war was in pro- gress, and at a time when our government was not OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 201 in position to enforce the Monroe doctrine. As soon, however, as peace was declared at Appomatox oui government began to interest itself again in the pro- tection of American soil, and as a result of its protests the European nations that had encouraged Maximil- lian withdrew from his support and left him to be dealt with by the Mexican people, who executed him as a solemn warning to other ambitious European mon- archs. Jaures, who was the Mexican leader at that time, became president, and is regarded as the second great Mexican — Hidalgo, who was the first leader in the war for independence, being considered the first. Hi- dalgo is often called the "Mexican Washington." The museum at the City of Mexico exhibits the state carriage of Maximillian, ornamented with silk and gold, and costing, it is said, $60,000. Near by is the very modest carriage of Jaures. The visitor marks the contrast between the splendor of an empire and the simplicity of a republic. Looking at the emperor's carriage and remembering his tragic end one recalls the lines of Gray's Elegy — "The paths of glory lead but to the grave," Between the Mexican war with the United States and the usurpation of Maximillian came the contest between the clergy and the laity in which the latter were successful and separated church and state so completely that while practically all of the people are members of one church the work of the church and the work of the state are not allowed to conflict. The experience of Mexico shows that if you will implant 202 UNDER OTHER FLAGS in people the idea of self-government and teach them the inalienable rights of the individual they will apply that doctrine to all questions, and without being less devoted to their religion will obey the injunction, "Render unto Caesar the things that are Caesar's and unto God the things that are God's." The third great man produced by the Mexican republic is the present president. With the exception of one term he has been president since 1876, during which time he has shown wonderful ability, and it is doubtful if there is in the world today a chief execu- tive of greater capacity or devotion to his people. Certainly no people have made greater relative pro- gress than the Mexican people have made under the administration of Porfirio Diaz. Education has been promoted, law and order established, agriculture de- veloped, commerce stimulated, and nearly every sec- tion of the country connected by railroad with the capital. While there are many able and strong men upon whom the mantle of president might worthily fall, he has been so remarkably successful and has such a hold upon all classes of people that he will doubtless remain at the head of the government as long as he lives — the people would hardly consent to his with- drawal even if he desired to lay down the responsi- bilities of the position. I am sometimes asked whether I would advise people to invest in Mexico. The conditions that gov- ern an investment are so dependent upon circum- stances that no general advice can be given. In a report recently made to the American government, OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 203 Consul General Barlow of the City of Mexico gave detailed statistics to show that up to the present time American money to the amount of about $511,000,000 has been invested in the republic of Mexico. His re- port gives the amount invested in each town and the names of American firms doing business in Mexico. This very valuable report when published can prob- ably be secured from members of congress if not by direct application to the state department. The investments may be divided, generally, into five classes : railroad investments, mining investments, agricultural investments, manufacturing investments, and investments in city realty. In addition to these there have been investments in municipal lighting and water plants and there has been considerable made by Americans in contracting for the construction of rail- roads and the erection of public buildings. The Mexican railroads employ Amerians for con- ductors and engineers almost to the exclusion of the natives. The reason given me by one of the conduc- tors was that there is not so large a middle class to draw from there as in the United States. In Mexico the peons are not yet competent to fill these positions and the well-to-do Mexicans prefer the professions. With the increase in education, however, it is probable that the Americans will not long be able to monopolize this branch of the service. Quite a number of Americans are interested in gold, silver and copper mines in Mexico, that country coming second as a producer of silver and having an 304 UNDER OTHER FLAGS increased output (now about $10,000,000 annually) of gold. A large amount of American money has been in- vested in agricultural lands, coffee, sugar and grazing lands having the preference. The grazmg lands are to be found both in the mountains, where the condi- tions are similar to those that prevail on the slopes of the Rockies, or in the lowlands, where there is a pro- lific growth of nutritious grass. The coffee lands are on the slopes of the moun- tains where the warm air from the lowlands meets the cooler air from the plateau and where there is an abundant rainfall. The sugar lands lie as a rule a little lower than the coffee lands. There is some cot- ton in Mexico, but not a great deal as compared with states like Texas. Mr. J. A. Roberston of Monterey is one of the enterprising Americans who has had experience in the development of agricultural lands, besides being con- nected with brick-making and other manufacturing enterprises. Judge Y. Sepulvida, formerly of California, has shown that an American can succeed there in the law, as has also Mr. Will Crittenden, formerly of Missouri. There has been a large and constant growth in the manufacturing industry of Mexico, especially in the manufacture of cotton. There are some very large plants, one of which is located at Orizaba and others are scattered throughout the country, Toluca, the capital of the state of Mexico, is mak- ing rapid progress in the development of manufactures OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 205 in metal, fabrics and cereals. Governor Villada, the chief executive of this state, is one of the ablest, most energetic and generous of the public men of Mexico, and has had much to do with stimulating the progress so apparent in his state. He prepared an exhibit to be shown at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition and al- ready has a state exposition at Toluca which is well worth visiting. We spent a day there, and were sur- prised at the diversity of industry and at the superior workmanship manifested. Besides the industries men- tioned they have fine pottery plants and paper mills, one of the mills making an excellent quality of writing paper from the leaves of the maguey plant. Here, as elsewhere in Mexico, there is an abundance of wood carving, drawn work and feather work. Considerable money has been made by Americans by subdividing and platting acre property near the growing cities. There are many opportunities in Mexico for the man who goes there with capital and with knowledge of an industry to bring out the latent possibilities of soil and climate. There are also op- portunities for those who go as skilled laborers to oversee industries in the process of development, although these opportunities lessen with the increase of education among the Mexicans, but in going one must consider the change of climate. Emigration is seldom from zone to zone, and it is not likely that any large number of Americans will care to make a per- manent residence in what is known as the hot country, that is, the lowlands in the torrid zone. On the plateau 206 UNDER OTHER FLAGS the altitude (about 7,000 feet) is such that our people can live there without sufifering inconvenience. It is hardly worth one's while to go there to look for ordi- nary day's work, and if any one is contemplating an investment he ought to visit the country first and acquaint himself with all the circumstances that sur- round the industry in which he is going to invest. The cost of a trip to Mexico is so small compared with an investment of any considerable sum that a person would be foolish to send his money without first look- ing over the ground himself. One has no difficulty in traveling in Mexico be- cause he finds English spoken on the railroads and in all the leading hotels and stores. I may add a word of caution. The venders at the depots do not always follow the "one price" plan. The price when the train first stops is sometimes considerably higher than the price of the same article just as the train is leaving. We heard stories of the deceptions occasionally prac- ticed in the preparation of merchandise for the mar- ket. In fact our boy, after having bought a pair of very pretty little birds, was somewhat disturbed by the sug- gestion that birds were sometimes painted for the pur- pose of giving variety of color. Sufficient time has elapsed, however, to show that in this case the liues were put on by nature's brush and made indelible. I found that the people of Mexico were discussing the money question. I did not meet a single person in the republic who declared himself in favor of the gold standard, but some were alarmed at the possibility of its adoption. Statements eminating from the United OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 207 States financiers have been quoted in Mexican papers and some of the local financiers have adopted the pol- icy that has everywhere been pursued by those who sought to make a change in the financial system against the interests of the people. These financiers, while declaring themselves averse to the gold stand- ard, were suggesting the fixing of a new ratio between gold and silver with the idea of preventing the fluctu- ation of exchange. All domestic business is transacted with silver, and when the people buy home products the question of exchange does not enter in, but the importers are embarrassed by a fall in silver. If they agree to sell to retailers at a certain price in silver their profit may be entirely extinguished by a rise in exchange. This has a tendency, however, to make them buy domestic- made goods, and the domestic manufacturers have not been heard to complain. The better informed of the Mexicans understand that a change in the ratio is only an indirect means of securing a step toward the gold standard, for the adoption of a new ratio — 32 to 1 hav- ing been suggested by one local financier — would not prevent the fluctuation in exchange unless the govern- ment should undertake to exchange gold and silver coins at that ratio. If the new ratio was established and the government assumed no responsibility for the maintenance of that ratio in the market, the fluctuation would go on every day just as now, with this addi- tional disadvantage that the change, as soon as it was recognized to be a blow at silver, would probably still further depress the price of that metal. If, on the 308 UNDER OTHER FLAGS other hand, the government undertook to maintain the parity by exchanging gold for silver at that ratio it would have to bear the losses now borne by the import trade, but it would not have the same means of pro- tecting itself that the importer has. The importer can protect himself by buying at home, but the govern- ment could only protect itself by collecting taxes enough to cover the loss. The danger about this ex- periment is that the financiers, having secured a new ratio would, if it proved unsatisfactory, as it certainly would, insist that having taken that step a further step would have to be taken. If the ratio was changed and the government did not make the metals interchange- able at that ratio the next step would be a demand that the government assume this responsibility, and if the government did assume it the expense of it would be used as an argument in favor of abandoning silver entirely. Silver is Mexico's largest export, and her public men understand that legislation against it would not only reduce the export price and thus lessen the ability of Mexico to pay her debts abroad, but if it finally led to the discarding of a money which she pro- duces herself, would compel her to mortgage herself to foreign financiers to secure the money necessary to do the business of the country. Mexico's leaders, from the president and members of his cabinet down to the members of congress, gov- ernors and lesser officials, are much better informed than the outside world gives them credit for being, and they know that Mexico, a great silver producing coun- OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 209 try, could not discriminate against silver and join in the scramble for gold without immediately increasing the gap between gold and silver, a sufficient evil, and without ultimately aiding to drive other silver using nations to the yellow metal. It is likely, therefore, that Mexico will adhere to silver in spite of the incon- venience caused by a fluctuation in exchange rather than invite the greater perils that would come from an adoption of the gold standard. It is evident from what is going on in the United States and in the great money centers that the finan- ciers are determined to take from the people any ad- vantage that might come from an increased production of gold. Schemes are being constantly devised for in- creasing the demand for gold, and the strain upon it. If the money-changers have their way the demand will not only be made equal to the supply, but enough greater than the supply to insure an era of falling prices, a condition beneficial only to the owners of money and fixed investments. The quantitative theory of money is now gener- ally admitted. It is a well recognized fact that a doubling of the population without any increase in the supply of wheat would raise the price of wheat, and it is also understood that a doubling of the gold using population without an increase in the supply of gold would raise the purchasing power of each ounce of gold. The director of the mint is already discouraging the production of gold, and the financiers are doing what they can to increase the demand for it. These efforts cannot be successful without serious injury to 310 UNDER OTHER FLAGS the producing classes of the world. The people in gold-using countries ought to be grateful to Mexico for standing steadfast in her determination to keep silver a part of the currency of the world, for, to the extent that silver is used, the strain upon gold is lessened. In conclusion I may add that Mexico furnishes a complete answer to the arguments of imperialists. In the first place, those who say that we cannot haul down the flag when once it has been raised will find that our flag once floated over Chepultepec, the rocky hill that rises abruptly from the plain of Mexico and which was for ages the citidel of the Montezumas. liWhen the treaty of peace was signed our flag was hauled down and brought back more than 800 miles to the Rio Grande. This not only proves that the flag can be hauled down, but subsequent history shows that it was better for the flag of the Mexican republic to float over the Mexican people than that the char- acter of our government should have been changed in order to make our flag wave over a subject race. Her officials are of the same race and blood as her citizens, and they are knit together by bonds of sympathy that are impossible when a foreign master rules a con- quered people. Sometimes the imperialist attempts to appeal to a patriotic sentiment and argues that our flag must float over the Philippines because Americans lie buried there. If he will visit Mexico he will find in the sub- urbs of the capital an American graveyard where the stars and stripes are raised at sunrise and lowered at OUR SISTER REPUBLIC— MEXICO 211 sunset. In this ground, owned by the United States, the soldiers of the Mexican war, known and unknown, are buried and an American citizen, an appointee of our government, sees that their graves are kept green. Here on Decoration Day flowers are brought, and the sleep of these soldiers is none the less sweet because their companions in arms and their country's officials preferred to observe the principles of the Declaration of Independence rather than convert a republic into an empire. Again, the imperialist will find in Mexico more progress made in the last thirty years than he can find in India during the hundred and fifty years of English rule. And in Mexico the imperialist will find more great men developed by the inspiring doctrines of civil liberty and inalienable rights than England has ever sent to India to conduct her colonial government. All things considered, Mexico's exptrience is il- lustrative of the growth of democratic principles and can be studied with profit by Americans. The friend- ship existing today between the United States and Mexico is based upon an identity of interests and upon a growing identity of ideas. If any conflict arises be- tween the United States and European countries in respect to the enforcement of the Monroe doctrine, Mexico is likely to be our staunchest and most valu- able ally. Value of an Ideal A L«€t