GIFT OF C. H. Hovey m THE GRAPE GROWER'S GUIDE, INTENDED ESPECIALLY FOR THB Jnwriran CUmatf. BEING A PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE CULTIVATION 0F THE GRAPE-TIN* IN EACH DEPARTMENT OF HOT HOUSE, COLD GRAPERY, RETARDING HOUSE, AND OUT DOOR CULTURE. WITH PLANS FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF THE REQUISITE BUILDINGS, AND GIVING THE BEST METHODS OP HEATING THE SAME. (Bberg IpjepHttmntt boeforg. fnllg Jlkwtrattb. BY WILLIAM iCHORLTOJST. bv AUTHOR OF "THB COUTTSiaPERY," JtTC. NEW YOKK: C. M. SAXTON & CO., AGRICULTURAL BOOK PUBLISHERS, 140 FCLTOX STREET. 1856. C5 Entered, recording to Act of Congress, in the year 1852, bj C. M. SAXTON, fe CO., In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. EDWARD O. JENKINS, STEHBOTYPEB AND PRINTER, 2-6 Frankfort St. , N. Y. CONTENTS CHAFTEK I. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. PAdK Hardiness of natives and exotics . . . .11 Effects of mildew and excessive changes . . . .11 Cost of houses . . . ,.': r * 12 Skill easily acquired . . . . . .12 Botanists' distinctions . . . . . .13 Circumstances favorable to development . . . .14 Evils of dogma and prejudice ..... 15 Acclimatizing . . . . . .16 Gratification and advantage of the Grapery . . . 16 CHAPTER II. HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. Double pitch, curve, and straight line . . . .18 Single pitch . . . . . . . 18 Ridge and furrow . . . . . . .18 Cold Grapery : Most suitable houses for . . . . 18 Position for double pitch . . . . .19 single pitch . . . . .19 Inclination of roof . . . . . .20 Explanation of Frontispiece . . , '' ^ ' Ur 21 Ground Plan to Frontispiece . . . . .22 Calculations of proGts ..... 24 House not to be used for other purposes . . .26 Foundations, ventilators, &c. .... 27 Internal fixings, &c. . . . . .27 EvilofcoM water . . . . . .28 Situation . . . . . . .29 Early Grapery : Suitable designs for and remarks on . . .29 Aspect . . . NiS . . . .30 G655T8 IV CONTENTS. PAGB Difficulties with outside temperature ... 30 Description and plan of house . . . . .31 Plan of ventilator . ... 32 Advantage of inside planting . . . . .33 Plan of house heated by flue .... 34 Grapery for pot culture : Plan of house for . . . . . .35 Other houses suitable . ... 36 Eetarding House : Objects of . . . . . .36 Position and aspect . . . . . . 37 Plan of double detatched house . . . .38 Mr. Webster's method of ventilation . 39 CHAPTER HI. ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPABATUS. Eeasons why it is required . . . . .40 Steam not suitable, and why ..... 41 Hot water the best' . . . . . .41 Difference of material for pipes, &c. .... 42 Plan of boiler . . . . . . .43 Brick flues, general remarks on . . .44 Drying and parching effects of flues . . . .45 Size and capacity of flue and furnace .... 46 Polmaise heating, remarks on . . . ... 47 Plan of flue and polmaise combined .... 48 CHAPTER IV. BORDERS, OR PREPARED BEDS. Importance of right preparation . 3 ;?-:,.-'. 49 Bad effects of unsuitable materials . . * :lfr\: 49 Nitrogenized manure not permanent . ,> . . 50 Good properties of bones and lime . ",- . .52 Evil of over-deep borders ; ." ^ , . >'..^>t'; 52 The strongest growth not the best . . . *-, ? . 52 Advantages of well -drained borders . . -, f - ,. . 53 How to make the borders . . . . ,&?".- 53 Good drainage retains the moisture . . . .54 Advantages of making only a part at first * .. . ,"- .,^, 65 Too much stimulating matter not good . . . .56 CONTENTS. V PAQB Width of borders . .... 56 How to retain natural longevity . . . . .57 Useless expenditure . . .... 58 CHAPTER V. PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT THE FIRST YEAR. Choosing of vines for planting . . . . 59 When to plant ....... 59 How to plant . . . . .60 Careful watering required . . . . .61 Planting vines previously started into growth . . .61 Management through the summer .... 62 Attention to the roots . .... 62 Necessity of a warm temperature 63 Attention to the tops . . . . . .64 Increase of air as ripening progresses . . 64 How to prune, &c. . . . . . .64 Wash to kill insects . ..... 65 Covering for winter . . . . .65 Top-dressing of compost . . . .66 CHAPTER VI. MANAGEMENT FOB THE SECOND YEAR, AND PERMANENT TREATMENT FOR THE COLD GRAPERY. Retarding of the buds . . . . . .67 How to manage the advancing growth ... 67 Reducing of bunches . . . . . .68 Regulation of temperature . . ' "v* ' . . 68 Fertilizing the flowers . . . 1^ : . ! f.'' . 69 Application of water after blossoming . . . 69, Further reduction of fruit . . . . .70 Thinning out the superfluous berries . . 71 Inside watering through the summer . . . .72 Outside watering through the summer . . 72 Application of liquid manure . . . . .73 A drier atmosphere and more air required later in the season 73 House to be closed on frosty nights . . 5^*5 f : . 74 Fall management . . . . . .74 Weight of fruit to be allowed ... 75 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER VII. THE EARLY GRAPERY, OR FORCING HOUSE. FAGK Practical skill required, and remarks . . . .77 Yearly forcing not injurious . . . 79 Covering for outside borders . . . . .80 Injury from the roots being in a cold bed ... 80 Time to prune, and commencing to force . . .83 Evils of cold drafts of air . . . . .84 General treatment . . . . . .85 Watering outside borders, and free ventilation . . 86 Second early crop . . . . . .87 Journal of temperature and remarks ... 88 CHAPTER VIII. POT CULTURE. Advantages, care required, &c. . . . . 91 Comparative difference in crop . . . . .92 How to economise space .... 93 Suitable vines, compost, and potting . . . .93 General treatment . . . . . .95 Management for second fruiting . . . . .96 Application of liquid manure ... 97 CHAPTER IX. RETARDING HOUSE. Objects of the Retarding House . . -, . . 98 General remarks, and treatment . . ' ^.^ 98 ' Caution required in pruning .,. ^ . . j.- . . 101 How long in the year grapes may be had ..- . . 102 CHAPTER X. LIST OP VARIETIES. Remarks on the confusion of kinds <; V ; ' . . . 104 Exotics, descriptive list - i :r ; '& " .*' . 105 Cold Grapery, the best kinds for . . . . .112 Forcing House . . . . . . ' 112 Retarding House . .113 CONTENTS. yii PAGE Pot culture . . . . . . . . 113 Remarks on Muscats . . .... . . 114 Native Grapes, varieties of . . . . 115 CHAPTER XI. PRUNING AND TRAINING. General remarks . . . . . . .116 Double spur method . . . . . .117 Single close spur method . . . . .119 Long rod ".... 120 Renewal " . . . . . 121 Extension " ..... 122 To produce temporary full crop . . . . .124 Longevity of the grape vine ..... 125 Weight of fruit that a vine will produce . . .125 Advantages of extension . . . . . 126 Summer pruning . ..... 126 Evils of shortening in too close . . . . . 128 Curtailing the plant's energy shortens life . . .129 CHAPTER XII. PROPAGATION AND THE RAISING OP NEW KINDS. Propagation by eyes . . . . . .131 cuttings . . . . . .132 coiling . .' . . . 133 - layers . .... 134 layers suspended S '*;*'' . . . 134 grafting . . . .-VWH^ - .135 inarching ... ^^ . 137 seed .... "'...'' . 138 The raising of new kinds . . . ,. 138 Improvement that may be made . . . ... 139 National profits ...... 140 Hybridizing, or cross-breeding ..... 141 CHAPTER XHI. DISEASES. Mildew : Different kinds, and first indication .... 143 Oidiwn, its appearance ..... 143 Vlll CONTENTS. PAGE Time of appearance ...... 144 Sulphur a remedy .... ><';^ "'; 145 Botrytis described .... ' * " ^^' . . . igg Formation of ten-aces JX* ' ; r * .' 167 Trellises and supports . .* . . 168 Planting and choosing plants . . .. .169 After-treatment . >1; v . . . . , . 170 Training over arbors, &c. ." '*>**'- ^ '+ '^ ^ PREFACE. OWING to the favorable reception of my monograph, the Cold Grapery, by those who are interested in grape culture, and the commendations of intelligent practical cultivators of this luscious fruit, I have determined to comply with the request of friends, by giving a more comprehensive edition, with the hope that my humble efforts may be of service to the public. What is recorded is simply an explanation of my own experience and observation, and an expression of my deliberately formed opinions. The method here given has been successful hitherto, and is founded upon the practice of the last quarter century. I have endeavored, as much as possible, to give a common-sense view of the whole routine, to embody every idea required in each department, and labored to make the detail concise, yet plain. Such as it is, I submit it to a discerning and intelligent public, and shall be amply repaid for my trouble, if it shall hereafter be the means of extending a true know- ledge, of the subject on which it treats. WILLIAM CHORLTON. New Brighton, Stolen Island. r C H APTEti J I*. - ' ' >- ; Jj - i '' INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. WE find, from history, that the grape-vine has been one of the most esteemed and essential fruits from the most remote periods of antiquity. Its cultivation has followed the migrations of civilized man into all climes suitable to its prosperity, and, since the erection of glass houses has been understood, has become adopted into many countries where it otherwise could not succeed. In the United States, the different varieties of the native, Vitis Labrusca, as Isabella, &c., and those of the native Vitis vulpina, as Scuppernong, &c., with ordinary treat- ment, flourish, and ripen their fruit in the open air ; while those of the exotic, Vitis vinifera, as Chasselas, Ham- burgh, &c., have, excepting in a few solitary instances, proved a complete failure, from their tendency to become mildewed. In most parts of the Union, there is sufficient light and heat to bring the different varieties of the latter species to maturity, and they are hardy enough to resist the cold, but unfortunately, when the disease (allow the expression) attacks them, the free action of growth is checked, the energy is impaired, and instead of well- hardened wood, there is nothing but an unopened, sappy substance, to withstand the severe winters. The fruit also is rendered worthless from the same cause; and although many attempts have been tried, with the most sanguine expectations, they have been as often abandoned. This evil is the result of the growth of fungoid vegeta- (H) 12 THE GRAPE. tion, the development of which is accelerated by the ex- ce t ssjve changes from diy to moist, from heat to cold, and vice versa. Fortmratfil./, the erection of glass houses is now so well understood, end material is so cheap, that we- have :B Ttefrtty aritirlotej fo>Vby planting inside these structures, we are enabled to equalize the temperature and overcome the difficulty. There is also the advantage, if we take the whole range of the subject, of being able to cut ripe grapes nearly the whole year round ; and even as a general crop in the cold grapery, with a proper selection of sorts, a sup- ply may be obtained front the middle of July, or the be- ginning of August (according to locality), on to near the end of December. Generally it has been thought that the cultivation of this desirable fruit was prohibited to all but the most wealthy, on account of expense, and peculiarly myste- terious skill. As to the first difficulty, good and suitable houses can be erected, when heating apparatus is not attached, at from $8 to $14 per running foot, on the length of the house, with all conveniences included, and proper fertilizing materials are no great expense ; so that this obstacle can be removed even by those of humble means. In making the above assertion as to cost, it is not presumed that the lesser amount will complete a stately building, but a snug and well adapted small house, such as many would like, can be finished for that amount ; and the greater sum will furnish a profit to the builder, on a structure sufficiently elegant and commodious to gratify the most wealthy or fastidious. With regard to the skill, if the directions hereafter laid down (with a little observation added) be acted upon, a sufficiency of prac- tical knowledge will soon be acquired ; for these direc- tions are the result of the author's experience, and are only what have been and are still being actually INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. . 13 accomplished by good grape-growers. Many have been prevented from commencing by seeing the many fail- ures that have occurred, the small number of successful cases, and the hitherto almost general " say," that it is absolutely necessary in all cases to have fire heat. But we are dawning upon a new era in these respects, and the alacrity and determined enthusiasm with which many have now come into, and others who are beginning to enter the field, will go far towards dispelling these fears, and will eventually drive out prejudice. No fruit-bearing plant will give greater satisfaction than the grape-vine, and nothing horticultural will continue to prosper without it. All that is wanted are a few right ideas, and the writer has done his best to discharge his duty, feeling convinced that ere long the grape-house will be considered as neces- sary an adjunct to an estate, however small, as at present is a peach-orchard. Botanists disagree with respect to the classifying of the genus vitis, some making the species very numerous, and others only dividing it into well-marked specialities, thereby simplifying and rendering the differences more distinct. There are some men so fond of dividing and subdividing nature's distinctions according to their own fickle whims and fancies, that, were we always to follow them, it would take a lifetime to BEGIN to understand their abstract con- nections ; and as these individuals have in many cases become authors, and consequently are referred to as au- thority, there is some apology for the novice wandering in the maze of misunderstanding which they have to some extent established. Such men ought to take a course of practical lessons in hybridization, and see the results, be fore publishing their manuscripts, when they would dis cover that many of their so-called species are no more distinct than some of the varieties which may be artifi- 14 THE GRAPE. oially produced. However, this has little to do with us in the present subject, further than the understanding of the difference between our natives and the exotics, and here it would appear that the constitutional properties alone are sufficient to make a true natural division ; for, unless we are greatly mistaken, there has not been one variety of foreign origin, or yet a seedling, direct from the same source, which can be truly verified as withstanding the changes of our climate, with the same pertinacity as the natives. The exotic grape-vine is a native of, and flourishes the best in warm, even, and comparatively dry climates; its organization is such as to require a long, steady, and warm season to perfect its growth. Under favorable circum- stances, it pushes forth a vigorous development, and ab- sorbs alarge quantity of nutriment from the soil, if encour- aged to the full extent of its powers. The broad and ample foliage perspires and respires very freely. Hence it follows, that the atmosphere in which it is growing should be most particularly adapted to the various stages of growth. Practical experience shows this to be deci- dedly the case ; for, when not attended to, the most inju- rious consequences follow. Heat is the cause by which the sap is set in motion in the spring, and when it is once excited, the action is grad- ually increased along with the rising temperature, until eventually the whole energies of the plant are brought into active play. Light and moisture, combined with heat, are essential to its welfare ; they encourage this action, and enable the plant to develop and mature its growth to its fullest capacity. This being the case, it is easy to see that in so vigorous a grower as the grape-vine a great amount of these three elements is required. This I would most particularly impress upon all grape-growers. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 15 Heat, light, and moisture are the main requisites ; yet these elements are generally too sparingly administered, although the grape-vine requires them all in abundance while growing freely. It would be well if all cultivators were to study more closely the laws by which the vegetable world is gov- erned ; were it so there would be fewer failures. We are attached too much to set notions, and follow the blind practice of prejudice oftener than we ought ; and if we add to this the great number of pretenders who swarm over the country, there is no occasion to wonder at the many failures. Let it not be thought that I wish to de- preciate the character of the skilful horticulturist, for we have many men who are an honor to the calling, well qualified to give advice, and under whose care the grape vine is as well managed as in any part of Europe; but while wishing to do all in our power to uphold the pro- fession, we should raise our voice against those egotistical empirics who often deceive the unwary, waste the pro- perty of those who employ them, and bring ruin to many a horticultural establishment. In no department is this more often seen than in the grapery, where the weak growth, the ill-fed papery leaves, and spare fruit tell a woful tale of mismanagement. Yet no fruit-bearing plant, yields more readily to the wishes of the cultivator, or will bear more illtreatment than the grape, and if other fruits had to be managed as artificially as this requires to be under glass, there would be in them more failures, than it is subject to under inexperienced hands. Although there is much skill required in the cultivation of this fruit in all its bearings, there are none of those superannuated nostrums, or mysterious dogmas required, that these quacks prate about, and the necessary know- ledge is readily acquired. The main secrets are, to under- 16 THE GRAPE. \_ stand the constitutional habits, and adapt our treatment accordingly. Now, if we take into consideration, as stated above, that the exotic grape-vine is indigenous to, and flourishes best in those countries which have long and steady summers, and that those same localities are com- paratively dry during the periods of rest, it seems only reasonable that we should keep up a warm and equable temperature during growth, and also have the roots in a well-drained, or naturally dry substratum, so far for its natural requirements. All that we have so far done, by attempting to acclimatize the grape, has not yet overcome these physical difficulties, neither will any future attempts succeed, unless we get a race of seedlings, crossed with the native varieties, and raised in our own climate. By en- couraging vigorous development, by a moist atmosphere, added to this required steady heat, and afterwards concen- trating the collected juices by a further continuance of the latter principle, with air more freely admitted until the approach of maturity, afterwards reducing the tem- perature, and moisture as ripening progresses, it will bend to the will of the most fastidious enthusiast. By the aid of glass houses, either with or without arti- ficial heat, all this can be accomplished, and as they can be erected of any size to suit the pecuniary means, or caprice of different persons, a grapery is within the reach of a poor man. How gratifying would it be to the me- chanic, and small tradesman, to have attached to his homestead a small house of grapes, what an appendage to his little domain, and with what exulting feelings would he view his crop as "he sat under his own vine," and watched with an " enthusiastic pleasure the several stages of bursting buds, flowers, and fruit, knowing that he could enjoy his own luscious grapes, equal in quality with those of the most wealthy proprietor in the land, or the great- INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. 17 est nabob in aristocratic Europe. This pleasure may be en- joyed by most persons. Half the money that is often spent in " gingerbread" decorations, miscalled ornaments around a dwelling-house, would erect a little grapery, which in many places might be attached to, or cover one end of the building, having a door leading into it from the house : and let not the wife or daughters think the neces- sary attentions required during the absence of the " gude man," to be a degrading pursuit, for it is no mean occupa- tion. Woman never yet lowered herself by being seen in the garden, or by obtaining a knowledge of plants, and rural affairs, and it is surely far better to be employed in healthful exercise, such as is here furnished, than to be lolling from morn to night, inanimate, as it were, upon the downy sofa, reading exciting and voluptuous novels, and assisting the seeds of consumption to germinate. Would that we could induce our accomplished matrons, and fair belles to take a more active part in the operations of hor- ticulture. Why should these departments be considered too masculine for woman's position in society I CHAPTER II. HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. THERE has been from time to time, much controversy respecting the various kinds of structures which are most suitable, for cultivating the grape vine. Some advocate the curved line, double pitch; others again, the straight line, double pitch. Some, from a preference for old no- tions, think none so suitable as the common lean-to, while a few who have advanced a step out of this position, will admit instead of the common plane lean-to, a roof with a curved line. Latterly a new notion has sprung up, and we find the ridge-and-furrow-formed roof is gaining an ascendancy. In order to make this part more easily understood, it is divided into the Cold Grapery, or growing without artifi- cial heat ; Forcing House, Forcing House for Pot Culture, and Retarding House. COLD GRAPERY. The form of the house for this pur- pose is not so material, as the having it so constructed, that it may be shut up tight in cases of emergency. With this precaution, good glass, and good management, any style will answer the purpose; consequently the build- ing may be erected to suit almost any fanciful design which the architect may choose, providing there is con- venience for training the vines properly, and at a suitable distance from the glass; and if thought proper the whole surface may be of glass, for while this house is being worked, there is not much cold weather to contend with, (IS) HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 19 nothing more than can be guarded against by closing up. If there is any preference for general utility, the curve line double pitch ought to be chosen, as from the convex surface which is exposed to the sun's rays, at whatever altitude he may be, the intense heat is somewhat scat- tered, there is less danger of the leaves being scorched, and the light is also more equally distributed ; this form is also generally considered the most agreeable to the eye. Whatever style of double pitch be adopted, the ends ought to face north and south, or as near these points as may be convenient, although a few degrees, variation either way is not of much consequence. By placing the house in this position, both sides receive the influence of the sun equally ; besides in the middle of the day, when his rays are most intense, they are partly warded off by striking obliquely upon the sash-bars above, which on the whole length of the house, acts as a considerable shade. In some cases, it may be desirable to cover a dead wall or side of a building ; or it may be requisite that the cold grapery should be connected with a line of early forcing, or plant houses, when the lean-to roof will be most con- venient, but there is no other advantage in adopting it, for with a double pitch, having two rows of pillars inside, one on each side of the central pathway, both sides may be planted, thus accommodating a double quan- tity of vines ; besides there is no back wall seen, and it shows better taste in the proprietor. Where the avoiding of expense is an object it is also the cheapest, considering the number of plants provided for. Where the lean-to is adopted, the south-east, or south-west aspect is best, though full south is not objectionable, and grapes may be well ripened when the house faces due east or west. Further north than these two points cannot be considered suitable. In case it may be wished that the Cold Grapery 20 THE GRAPE. should correspond with some peculiar style of architecture in the dwelling-house, or other contiguous buildings (and these points ought often to be considered), the ridge-and- furrow roof offers the greatest facilities, as it may be adapted to almost any form, without destroying its effi- ciency, for the vines can be trained horizontally under the roof; the grapes also look very handsome in this position as they hang perpendicularly down from the whole sur- face above. The canes in this case may be conducted along the under surface of each furrow, and the side spurs fixed at right angles, which enables the operator to arrange the bunches with the nicest regularity. With respect to the inclination of the roof, it is desira- ble that it be not less than 45, for the following reasons : our almost vertical sun at midsummer, when there is the greatest danger of scorching, will, at mid-day, strike the glass at an oblique angle, thus lessening its intensity and to a certain extent counteracting the evil. The glass being more upright, the wind or draft admitted through the laps, will be somewhat intercepted, and confined more immediately to the inner surface of the roof, which will ensure a more equable temperature around the leaves and stems, preventing somewhat the tendency to mildew. A steep roof also gives an additional length of rafter on a given width of house, which is an advantage, as the vines with the general modes of training, have more extent to develop their energies, and produce individually greater crops. The frontispiece to this work is designed for the pur- pose of showing a comple arrangement of the grapery to suit all purposes, and at the same time to form a beautiful architectural structure. Allowing the Cold Grapery to be fifty feet long by twenty feet wide, and the others col- lectively to be one hundred feet long by twenty-five feet HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 21 wide, the whole could be finished and every convenience included for about $2500. The main front is shown in the ground plan, Fig 2, to face full south. In such case it will be understood that the Retarding House would have a due north aspect, which is somewhat a disadvantage, as the sun would have little effect upon it. In order to remedy this, one-third in depth of the upper part of the central longitudinal division wall might be of glass, which would allow a considerable portion of light to pass through from the southern side, and thereby obviate the evil. Such a contrivance is now under the charge of the writer in a house for flowering plants, and answers admirably. There is, however, no objection, where circumstances will permit of choice in location, to the placing of the front aspect a few degrees east of south, which would in an equal ratio turn the northern side towards the west, indeed all things considered it would be as well for all requirements. If a Retarding House be not wanted, the northern side might be converted into a neatly finished row of convenience rooms, or if this were objected to, it would make as fine a house for apricots, camellias, oranges, or such like, as could be desired. It is intended by the plan to fix the heating apparatus in a cellar beneath the northern divi- sion, and the boilers or furnaces near each other and adja- cent to the chimney, each flue being conducted into the main outlet as shown in Fig. 10. If the cellar were re- jected, the north-east portion might be employed for the same purpose; but in the former case all nuisance is prevented, and the whole building would be composed of a surface of glass, from the wall plates to the ridges. Fig. 3 shows an interior view of a Cold Grapery, now under the writer's charge, which is 74 feet long, 20 feet wide, and 14 feet high, from the base level; there is a cistern sunk beneath near the centre, 12 feet deep by 12 GROUND PLAN TO FRONTISPIECE. HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 23 feet wide, and a force pump, liose, and tank for tempered water. The house rests upon strong cedar posts, and tho borders are 20 feet wide each, outside; the inside like- wise is prepared in the same manner, which gives an ex- tent of 60 feet extreme breadth. For proportions and Fig. 3. Inside View of the Cold Grapery of J. C. Green, Esq , Staten Island. style, this house is considered, by most persons who have seen it, to be satisfactory in every respect. The vines were planted in March, 1850, and there has been the fol- lowing number of bunches, of good quality, cut in the respective years mentioned below : 1851, ... 262 bunches 1852, . 618 1853, . . . 918 1854, . . 1147 Making a total of I 2945 " 24 THE GRAPE. There is nothing extraordinary in the above produce, more than others may accomplish ; it is only an average of what proper management and attention will do, and is more par- ticularly introduced, as an answer to the oft repeated question, "will it pay?" The average weight of these re- spective crops, if taken collectively, would be one pound per bunch, all of which might have been sold at whole- sale for fifty to seventy-five cents per Ib. The following calculation of expenses, which is as correctly stated as can be, will show the balance of profits : 2945 Ibs at 50 cts. . . . $1472 50 J)educt labor 1st year. . . $50 00 " 2d " . . . 100 00 ' " " 3rd "... 150 00 " 4th " , . . . 200 00 " " 5th " . . 225 00 Yearly dressings, $20. . . . 100 00 Repairs, painting, &c., . . . 200 00 1025 0.0 $447 50 By the above example it will be seen, that there is $447 above the lowest wholesale market prices and as the house, borders, &c., cost about $2000, it leaves a surplus profit of 4|- per cent, per annum, upon invested capital, which in the present position looks somewhat low, but it must be considered, that in this case, profit was not the object, everything was done, regardless of expense, to make a good and fine looking structure ; the best French crystal glass was used, and all labor paid by the day, besides, in the first year there is no return profit, and the last season is the only one, in which a full crop has been taken ; take into consideration too, that the labor account for after management is reckoned at $2 per day, and it will readily be seen, that a good and suitable house may HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 25 be built and tended so as to give a large return of profit. A house of equal dimensions, and well finished can be erected at $12 per lineal foot, with the exception of cis- tern, force pump, hose,, and tank ; and if we make an es- timate of all incidental expenses on a house equal to the above, and 50 feet long, it will stand thus : House finished with two coats of paint, 50 feet long at $12.00 , . . $600 00 Brick cistern, cemented, 10 ft. by 10 ft. . 70 00 Tank, Force Pump, and Hose. . . 90 00 25 tons manure for borders at $2. . . 50 00 Material for drainage. . . . 20 00 90 bushels bones, at 50 ts. . . 45 00 100 do. charcoal, &c. ??vV . . 15 00 Labor making borders, &c. . .- . 20 00 48 vines, at 50 cts, . . . 24 00 $934 00 The comparative weight of fruit that may be taken from the latter will be about two-thirds, or 1964 Ibs. at the same prices, making the total value for the five years of $982, and allowing the labor, expenses, &c., to be the same com- paratively in both cases, we may put down $298 gain upon a capital of $934, which shows a profit of about six per cent, per annum, and this too at the commencement. If we were to reckon upon after years, when the vines, would bear regularly full crops ; it will readily be seen that the profits would be much greater, and that with good management, there is no loss in having a Cold Grapery even though partial failures may occur. When the grape-vine is to be grown to the greatest per- fection, the house ought not to be applied to any other purpose. It appears, at first thought very reasonable to suppose, that for a general or summer crop of grapes, the 2 26 THE GRAPE. house may serve as a winter conservatory for flowering plants, but experience shows, that however late the vines may be kept back in the Spring, the buds will burst before the weather is suitably mild to turn the plants out, and into the open air ; and at this time the vines will require a temperature peculiar to themselves, which would gene- rally be too damp and close for the plants, many of which at the time, will be in a blooming state, requiring more air and a cooler atmosphere, than will be suitable for the vines ; besides it is almost impossible to keep down insects in a house where plants are kept. There is some excuse in an early forced grapery, which is so congenial to the well being of some natives of the tropics, but as a general greenhouse requires heating and the cold grapery does not, the expense of two houses is not so great, compared with the advantage to be gained ; therefore if possible, it is much better to have two houses where both are wanted. If pecuniary benefit be an object it is also more profitable, for the grape if well dealt by, will be honest in return, and pay a large per-centage upon capital, independently of ordinary expenses of labor, &c., but when neglected the reverse is the case. In order to give free range to the roots it is advisable to erect the house upon stone pillars, or locust, or cedar posts, (each of which ought to bo directly beneath a rafter,) which will allow them free egress to the outside borders. There are several ways by which these houses may be ventilated, perhaps the most convenient is to admit air at the top, and near the bottom, or under the wall plate. The lower opening ought to be made so as to shut very tight, as the admission of cold drafts from below has a tendency to reduce the heat in the lower base of the house the very part which, if possible, ought to be the warm- est. Nature here teaches us a lesson, and it would be well HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 27 if we always gave ear to her instructions the sun's rays strike the earth, and produce the greatest heat at the sur- face. She has no fixed confining canopy over the plants under her charge to prevent the heat from passing up- ward, and if we are obliged to have such, we ought not to render our necessities more unnatural than there is occa- sion for. Keep the head cool and the feet warm, is ad- vice often given by our physicians, and the same rule applies to plants generally, with very slight modifications. If the roof be made with sashes to slide over each other, which is the method best adapted for removal of the house at any future time, the upper ones will become the top ventilators ; but when it is fixed, and composed of a con- tinuous row of sash bars over supporting rafters underneath, the openings require to be lifted up from the bottom, and hung on the opposite end by hinges, or suspended by the middle on each side, and opened on a pivot. When hung by hinges the sides may rest upon the rafters, and the lower end project a little over the next squares of glass, thereby making it proof against drip, and this is perhaps the best plan, for beside being safer against rain, air can be admitted and the temperature lowered, without cold draughts striking down into the house. If hung from the sides there are no effectual means of capping, and however good the joints may be, the rain will find its way through more or less in time of violent storms. The internal fixings required, are wires to support the vines, a tank to hold water while being tempered in the house, a hose with a pipe attached to distribute the water, and a force-pump to supply the hose. The wires are most convenient when placed parallel with the sash-bars, and about fifteen inches below the glass, which will be sufficient to clear the leaves from contact ; if less space is allowed, the foliage of vigorous vines will touch 28 THE GRAPE. the roof, and are more exposed to the changes of tempera- ture, their action also will be impeded by being cramped, but a greater distance than is actually required is objec- tionable, as the nearer the glass the better. For a large house, a tank that will hold about two hun- dred gallons will be requisite, and for a smaller house, one in proportion. This tank during the earlier growing season ought to be kept full of water, so that when used it may be of the same temperature as the inside of the house. Cold water applied immediately from an under- ground cistern, or well, suddenly checks the action of all plants, and ought by all means to be guarded against. The force-pump may be attached to the tank, and if an air-tight metal globe be fixed over the discharge pipe, on the same principle as a fire engine, a steady stream will be propelled through the hose. By having two faucets on the lower pipes, one leading to the tank, and the other from the cistern below, there is no need for two pumps, as they may be shut, and opened, so as to answer the double purpose of drawing water from the cistern, or distributing it from the tank over the house. For a small grapery where economy is an object, a common syringe may be used instead of the hose, but in a large house the force- pump is more economical, and has the advantage of ena- bling the operator to drive the water well into the crevices of the wood-work, which greatly assists in keeping clear of insects. If there is not a good supply of soft water close at hand, it is desirable to have a cistern sunk under or immediately near the house, and the water conveyed into it from the roof by gutters and pipe, which saves much labor, beside the benefit of always having rain water, which is the best for all plants. The situation of the Cold Grapery is a matter of import- HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 29 ance, and in making arrangements ought not to be lost sight of. It should be freely exposed to light and air on all sides, if possible, away from the shade of trees or sur- rounding buildings, and if sheltered on the north, east, and west, so much the better ; but it is best for this to be a sufficient distance, so as to secure a free action of the air around. Shelter is not indispensably necessary, but if practicable, is of use, as it assists in warding off the cold winds, which often prevail until late in spring, and after the vines have begun to grow. THE EARLY GRAPERY. When the grape is produced as an earlier crop than the cold grapery will furnish, we have to resort to artificial heat, and with our ever variable climate, particularly during the frigid blasts of the latter part of winter, it becomes requisite, that we should have a tight and well protected house to work with ; so that variety of design has in this case to succumb to circum- stances. When a warm temperature has to be kept up by means of fuel, economy ought to be a prominent fea- ture ; and further, it is indispensable that a wholesome and growing atmosphere be maintained, which cannot be the case unless there is a command of genial moisture during the earlier stages of growth ; both these require- ments are best secured by close built structures, in which there is as little cubic bulk of air to be heated as may be consistent with sufficient convenience. It will be readily understood from this that, the different forms of curvilinear and plane lean-to roofs are the best, the wall plate upon which the lower ends of the rafters rest, being only a short distance above the ground level. Where there is nothing to interfere with choice, the curve line is preferable, so far as beauty, and the equalizing of the sun's rays is con- cerned, but there may be a set-off against this form, from the greater surface of glass, which may be thought to 30 THE GRAPE. conduct the applied heat away with a more than equal ratio. Balancing all points, what is gained by one, is lost in the other, and both are equally suitable. With regard to aspect, full south is the best, where con- venience will allow. South, south-east, is sometimes re- commended, but, although with care, it answers well enough, there are the following objections. It often hap- pens, that the most severe cold, or lowest grade of the thermometer outside, is immediately before, or at the time of sunrise, on the clearest mornings, and the heating ap- paratus must not be allowed to cool down ; now as the sun rises direct, or nearly perpendicular from the horizon, the rays strike (with this aspect) very quickly upon the plane of the roof, which in conjunction with the internal action, suddenly raises the temperature, at the time when the ex- treme cold, and often severe winds, will not admit of air being given, consequently there is danger from the quick transition unless the greatest caution be exercised. If the house face full south, the sun at this time will strike more obliquely on the end, which will to some extent counter- act the evil, and there is also an advantage in having greater natural warmth later on in the evening. The following cross section, and ground plan, figs. 4 and 5, and description of an Early Grapery, now in care of and erected under the supervision of the writer, and which has answered every expectation, may be of service here, and will illustrate our own practical ideas on the subject. The dotted outline shows a house, which, in this example is devoted to the growth of Camellias, and, being fixed in this position does away with the necessity of a shed, and assists in keeping the grapery from exposure. The same arrangement will apply where there is a building already erected, and which, would become the back wall of the intended house. HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 31 In this case the house faces south, south-east (owing to convenience), with a slope on the roof of 40, it is 78 feet long, by 13 feet wide, 2 feet high in front from the ground Fig. 4. Fig. 5. level, and 14 feet at the back. The foundation posts are Red Cedar, placed six feet apart, and sunk four feet in the ground, with the upper or exposed part, dressed off square, and cut at the top so as to form an even horizontal line ; upon these the wall-plate is fixed, and made firm by being let in about an inch, the lower end of the rafters, which are six feet asunder, and the sash bars are socketed 6Z THE GRAPE. into the wall-plate, and it is made sufficiently wide to allow of five inches projection on the outside, this part is scooped out on the upper side, and becomes the gutter, by which the water is conveyed to the cistern pipe ; be- side this there are cross bars every four feet on the length of the rafters, that stay and make the sash bars firm ; venti- lation is obtained by slides in the front wood work, imme- diately beneath the wall plate, and by sashes 2 feet six in- ches long and the same width, fitted by hinges at the ridge pole, these are lifted by a three-eights iron rod, having a hook at the upper end which is slipped through a hole in a small plate affixed to the middle of the lower end of each sash; the rod is steadied by being passed through two apertures at the end of a shaft three inches long that is welded, each into a small plate, and this screwed to the back side of the house; one about nine feet, and the other five feet from the ground. In the front of the lower hole is a screw worm, and 'a thumb screw to fit, which on being turned either way liberates or fastens the bar, and the sash is kept firm at any desired height. Fig. 6. Fig. 6, shows the sash open This simple contrivance, costs very little, is effective, has the advantage of never HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 33 getting out of repair, and is as permanent as the house it- self. It will be understood that this style of "building glass houses, is simply a frame work covered with glass, with- out any double sash, and consequently there is no use for any additional portion of the rafter above the sash bars (as is the case where the sashes are made to slide), which is a decided improvement in appearance, and equally suit- able. The house is heated by one of Hitchins' of New York middle sized boilers, and there is a lineal measure of 340 feet of four inch pipe employed, giving a double row of flow and return, beside the necessary appendages. One row is fixed close along the front, and the other at a dis- tance of seven feet nearer to the back, which leaves room for a pathway, without any dip in the pipe, and there is the additional advantage of having all the heat arising from the front, and lower part of the house, thereby se- curing as much as possible, an equal temperature over all parts. There are two rows of vines planted, one to the back wall, and the other about a foot nearer to the middle of the house than the front row of pipes, which makes a distance of eighteen inches from the extreme front ; the lower part of each of the roof vines is curved towards the bottom of the rafters, and consequently project partly over, but are some distance above the pipes, and to prevent injury from the heat when the apparatus is at work, there is affixed behind each, a short board, about ten inches wide, which protects the stem most effectually. The ob- ject of this arrangement was to insure warmth in front, and more particulary the lower part, and at the same time Avith the vines planted inside. It is a plan which we have not seen elsewhere adopted, and was conceived from a know- ledge of its being somewhat in accordance with natural re- quirements ; so far it has fulfilled all that was predicted, and what answers in our own practice, may be justifiably 2* 34. THE GRAPE. recorded, even though it should conflict with the notions of others. As to planting an exotic grape vine outside of the house, so long as the roots have free egress, or expos- ing the stem to the vicissitudes of climate, such as we have in this country ; we never yet saw the argument, often though it has been attempted, and as often eloquent- ly advocated, that could bring conviction, as to its being philosophical, or reasonable. In nature, we find the heat greatest near the ground, from the fact of the atmosphere being compressed, and the reflection, which take places by the sun's rays striking the surface ; and although we know that the stems of some plants are injured by his direct ac- tion upon them in hot weather, they are seldom affected by the same temperature if kept in the shade. This is the only explanation that will allow any amount of advocacy in the present instance, and it stands to reason that it serves little purpose. Figs. 7 and 8 will explain how a suitable structure may be adapted by a brick flue and furnace, with a shed at- tached, and it is preferable that it should extend the whole length on account of the shelter. As the flue will occupy more room than hot water-pipes, it is advisable to HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 35 plant the vines close to the inside front; and in making calculations, the entrance to the house should be elevated FO that the pathway may pass over the top of the flue, without which it will always be troublesome when walk- ing through the house. This only requires a little inge- nuity in each individual case, according as the details of Arrangement may suit the particular circumstance. GRAPERY FOR POT CULTURE. If a house were to be erected purposely for pot-culture, the most suitable and economical would be as shown in fig. 9 ; the inside floor- Fig. 9. ing sunk a foot being below the ground level, and the under base well drained around the outside founda- tion, to prevent cold moisture from penetrating laterally, 36 THE GRAPH. and if the heating apparatus be fixed around tho inside, near to the walls, there will be an equal distribu- tion over all parts. Such a house, if only ten feet wide, would accommodate three rows of vines, and leave room, for a pathway ; one row being placed near to the back with the path next, and the other two nearer the front. With this arrangement, there would be no occasion to elevate the roof more than to give sufficient headway, as the path would be directly under the ridge, say six feet above ground, and seven feet from the inside level, by which the exposure to cold, and severe winds is consider- ably avoided, and a steady heat maintained with much saving of fuel. There may be some objection to the short back lights, which should be of glass, but as these may be readily covered by shutters at night, and in severe dull weather the evil is less than the common form of lean- to, which has to be elevated according to the width of the house, and inclination of the roof. It is only for pot cul- ture that this will become serviceable in grape growing, but for the purpose named, it is most suitable, can be erected cheap, and is a compact and easily-managed struc- ture. Where the house is already built, or it may be in- convenient to adopt the above plan, on account of other- wise general arrangement, an ordinary lean-to, and more particularly the curve line will answer the purpose to almost equal advantage, and the design is only given as the best adapted, where the intention is to be as perfect as possible. THE RETARDING HOUSE. As the object of the retard- ing house is to have grapes beyond the time when the Cold Grapery, or least forwarded house will furnish them, it ought to be so situated as to assist in checking the early growth of the vines, it is also desirable that it should be capable of being rendered thoroughly dry inside, and like- HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 37 wise erected on a plan, by which it may be readily and economically heated, or rather that the applied heat may not be wasted, consequently, a lean-to form offers the greatest facilities as regards the latter, and a west front the former requirement. There are several reasons why this position is preferable. The coldest winds, more particularly in the early part of the season, being from the west, and Berth-west, there is a better chance of keeping back vege- tation in the spring, and of preventing the invigorating power of the sun at that time, thereby helping the vines to rest for a time, and retarding the buds. It is also ad- visable on account of the young and sappy growth being liable to mildew during the damp and close weather of July and August, at which times this pest is more than usually prolific, and generally when the wind is south, or south-east ; so that if the house be turned, as it were, away from these points, the influence is somewhat des- troyed. It may be thought, from these considerations, that north-west would be better still, so it would, but for the deficiency of sun light that in such case would be the result, for under any and all circumstances, the grape- vine delights in a free exposure to the action of powerful light, and without a due proportion, the after growth will not become sufficiently concentrated to store up the re- quired elaborate juices, or produce healthy and active roots. Improvement, and greater perfection in all buildings, is now advancing with rapid strides, and these lean-to glass houses are beginning to be looked upon as obsolete, and whenever, or wherever such shed-looking structures, with bare back-walls can be, they ought to be avoided* Under some circumstances they are better adapted to the situation of the garden, but it is only where they compose a boundary line of a parallelogram, and when the back partis not seen; in such positions they are admissible' 38 THE GRAPE. and, also, where strong heat has to be kept up all the winter, but there are many instances where such might be avoided in outside appearance, and yet the inside re- main the same in character, and so with the retarding house. Any person who wishes to erect a house for this pur- pose, is sure to have one or more graperies, and most likely one for the general summer crop, which is only partially forwarded; in which case, a double span, with the ends north and south, and divided longitudinally through the centre, would answer both purposes ; the west side being used for the late, and the east for the Fig. 10. earlier crop. We do not advise the east front as the best in a general way, but when it gives the advantages here mentioned, there is no reason why it may not be adopted, and we speak from experience in saying that good grapes may be grown as a second early, or general crop, with an eastern slope of the roof. The annexed end section, fig. 10 will explain better than words, how such double detached HOUSES AND CONVENIENCES. 39 houses may be constructed, so as not to show even the convenience for the heating apparatus, further than a door to shut doAvn over the under-ground vault, and even this, if thought objectionable, may be made to form a part of one of the pathways inside. The example given is an arrangement of, and now under the charge of, the writer, and answers admirably. Hot water is here used for heat- ing, but the same is equally applicable to the furnace and common flue, with the difference of placing the chimney at the opposite end. Since the above was written we have been apprized of a method of ventilating double pitch curvilinear houses, which has been invented by Mr. William Webster of Rochester, and for which he is about taking out a patent. His plan consists in having a movable chamber along the whole length upper part of the house, and which he can lift or lower at pleasure. If the machinery can be made to work well and kept in permanent order, he has con- ferred a great benefit upon the public, and deserves the thanks and support which all such useful improvements ought to receive. CHAPTER III. ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. IN the first stages of civilization, man was contented to eat the fruits of the earth as nature produced them in each division of climate, or separate locality, but as luxury crept in, he began to wish for those of more favored climes than the one in which he, in many cases, happened to be placed. His earlier peregrinations into more southern countries enabled him to see the splendor of tropical flowers, and taste the luscious fruits which there abound, and to enable him to enjoy these desirable additions at his own home, it became necessary to imitate as near as could be done, the climate from whence they came ; and here is the first inducement to use artificial heat, which though of imperfect character so far, to a certain extent, answered the purpose. This partial success set ingenuity to work, houses constructed partly of glass were erected, and so the thing has progressed from the half-glass, half- slate building, with clumsy stone or brick flue, to the Crystal Palace, and the elegantly modelled and scientific hot-water apparatus, until, even in most inhospitable regions, the fruits and flowers of the torrid zone are pro- duced in equal, and sometimes superior quality, to that which is found in the places to which they are indigenous ; besides which, skill has so far triumphed, that by a judi- cious application, or withholding of the artificial caloric, a succession of crops may be had to suit the desires of the most fastidious mind. (40) ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. 41 To say the best we can of artificial heat, it is only a necessary evil, but as we cannot do without using it, we ought to put in practice the best and most economical method that is at present known. The only advantages arising from this necessity, is the raising of the tempera- ture of, or drying the atmosphere in any given house under care, so as to suit the particular purpose intended, and so far, by adopting the latest improvements and fore- casting as to what is required, we can work along with comparative surety. There is no use of entering into a theoretical disquisition of the relative properties of caloric, nor of showing up the science of chemistry in combustion, our object is to find out how we can at the least expense, and with the more certainty, apply this subtle principle. Suffice it then to say that there are about fcmr ways in which we can adapt it to our use, viz. : by steam, hot water, brick flue, and what may be considered a modification of the latter, the technical term Polinaise Steam is of no practical use, unless where a large ex- tent of houses, all in the immediate vicinity are to be heated, neither can it be used with any certainty, unless the water is kept up to the point when the steam is given off in great quantity, so as to force it through the pipes, and the heat along with it ; besides there is the great dis- advantage of a want of bulk of heated substance, which is sufficient reason why this mode should not be adopted, for on the fire going down, the house immediately becomes cold, and consequently without the most careful attention, there is danger at almost any moment in severe weather, of injury to, or the loss of a crop. Hot Water has of late years become, and most deser vedly so, the popular favorite for warming plant and fruit houses. This method possesses the advantage of raising the temperature without parching the air, or giving out 42 THE GRAPE. any noxious gases, and if constructed on the best plan, may be placed on the credit side of expenses, there is also a steady heat in the working, and a sufficiency of bulk in the quantity of water, which, when once put in motion, continues to flow with increased or lessened velocity, ac- cording as the fire is kept up, and for some time even after no further heat arises from the furnace. There have been different methods adopted, as reservoirs for circula- ting hot water, such as lining the inside of brick flues with cement ; tanks of wood ; tin or sheet iron troughs, with the tops left loose, to be covered or not, as circumstances may dictate ; circular copper, tin, zinc, and cast iron pipes. The cemented flue is objectionable, as the material is so non-conducting, that there is great loss, and the cement is also liable to crack, which causes leakage. The open tank, and trough is well enough for a propagating house, which is generally small, and kept very damp, but is not suitable for a grapery, in which is required, a moist or dry atmosphere, according to the different stages of growth ; this plan also occupies much space, and looks un- sightly. Tin pipes are not advisable from their tendency to corrode, and unendurable qualities. Zinc softens when hot, and is next to useless, copper if made strong enough to resist hard knocks, and be really serviceable is very expensive, so we are driven to the last substitute, cast iron, which answers every purpose, is lasting, erected comparatively cheap, strong, and the different lengths are readily cemented, the joints becoming as firm and tight as any other part. The construction of boilers for this pur- pose is also various, and there is a great difference in the consumption of fuel, according with the ratio of heat dis- tributed to the water. In the most primitive boilers, the fire only played on the under surface, and the consequence was, a great waste of heat, unless the residue was con- ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. 43 conveyed around the house in a flue, which almost nullified 1 the improved principle, but of late years a great improve- ment has been accomplished, so much so, as to make it al- most perfect. After having been acquainted with nearly all kinds, I have, not found any to give so much satisfaction as the one constructed by A. E. Hitchins, of New York, of which fig. 11, is a longitudinal section, and fig. 12 an Fig. 11. Fig. 12. external view. This boiler is a double casing, between which, and the internal connections, the water is con- tained. It occupies very little room, and requires no inasonwork, excepting a few courses of bricks below, to raise it up sufficiently to give an ash-pit underneath, and a chimney or pipe to convey away the smoke. This apparatus when completed, with pipe four inches in dia- meter, boiler included, will cost from one dollar to one dollar twenty-five cents per lineal foot on the measure of the pipe, and a house forty feet long for early forcing would need about two hundred feet, so that reckoning the 44 THE GRAPE. greater price mentioned, the expense would be two hun- dred and fifty dollars, but for a longer house, or when a larger order were given, the comparative cost would be less. Brick Flues. Heating by brick flues is often practised, and if they be constructed on the best method, with good workmanship, they answer very well ; the expense on first erection is less it is true, but they often want repair, besides which they are unsightly and cumbersome, and as a general thing, will consume more fuel than a hot-water boiler on the above plan. If the situation, or circum- stances, make it more convenient to burn wood instead of coal or coke, then the flue is to be preferred ; in such case the furnace should be large, and the draft be under the control of the operator, by having a door in front of the ash-pit, and a damper in the chimney, which, when closed, more or less, as may be wished, will keep the fire steady. There are some cultivators who still cling to the flue for grape-growing, on account of the drying effects of the heat evolved, which, as they assert, is of some importance in damp weather, when the grapes are coloring, or ripe, and that at other times they can use evaporating pans. True, it is dry enough, even to parching ; and were this the only time when it would be required, the flue would answer the best purpose. But this point is a matter of very little consideration, as the same can be secured by pipes heated with hot water. Nothing can be more erroneous than to suppose that heat given out on the latter principle con- tains moisture ; were it so, the water would waste consid- erably through the pores of the metal, which is not the case, for all or nearly the whole of the evaporation which takes place is at the filling up tank, and if this be kept covered, the working of a night will not lessen the water more than a few pints. Heat, from whatever sources ob- tained, will absorb moisture, and as glass houses are not ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS 45 hermetically sealed glass bottles, the generated heat is constantly passing off through the crevices, more particu- larly those in the upper part of the roof, and the moisture along with it, The main difference, then, between the two is, that one only raises the temperature, while the other does the same ; and, in addition, imparts a certain amount of sulphuretted hydrogen and other injurious gases that escape through the joints and the bricks, in quantity according to the good or bad workmanship, or the porosity of the material. " Smoke has thin shoulders," is an old adage among gardeners, and we often find it verified in the use of flues. Notwithstanding these disadvantages, good grapes may be forced by flue heat, and in some cases this is the only means at command; when so, it is advisa- ble to make the best arrangement we can. If a steady and continuous heat be required, there ought to be enough room in the furnace to hold a large bulk of fuel, and if it is situated somewhat below the level of the flue, the heat will flow more evenly, and disseminate itself more equally, as it travels along with the draft, by which a greater por- tion will be absorbed by the bricks, and given off into the house. A small furnace, with a quick draft, is never eco- nomical, as a considerable portion of heat passes off by the chimney and is lost. A narrow and small flue is also ob- jectionable, as the heat acts directly upon the mason-work, and the bricks become so hot as to abstract the oxygen of the air, rendering it so devoid of moisture as not to be fit for the leaves to respire in. To a certain extent, this evil may be counteracted, by keeping shallow vessels filled with water upon the flue, and damping the floor of the house ; but most of the moisture produced in this way is in a vaporous state, and not in the exact solution required by the absorbing stomata of plants. The analogy be- 46 THE GRAPE. tween plants and animals is in this respect the same, and every body who is possessed of ordinary observation must be able to discern how different is the air that is raised in temperature by a red-hot stove, even though a vessel of water be kept upon it, to what it is when raised to the same temperature by the sun's power. We also know, that if we were able to control other circumstances accord- ing to our wants for the time being, success would more often attend our operations, providing we could exactly imitate the warmth of nature. If this be true, it must then be certainly to our own interest to approach as near as we can to this desideratum. To come to our point, a capacious flue gives a greater surface exposed to the ac- tion of the heat, without becoming hot enough to bring about so much chemical action as to burn the air inside of the house, while a small one is sure to do so, at any rate, in that part next to the furnace. To be effectual in this respect, a flue ought not to be less than eighteen inches high, by twelve inches wide in the clear ; and if raised up by placing supports underneath at intervals on the length, with fire-proof tiles to form the bottom, so much the better, as it then is free to give out the heat on all sides. The furnace ought to be not less than eighteen inches wide, and equal height, independent of the arch above, and two feet long. A furnace of these dimensions is qualified to work a house of forty to fifty feet long, by twelve or fourteen feet wide, the flue being conducted along the front and two ends. Double the length will need two fires, and so on in proportion. When two furnaces are required, there may be one placed at each end of the house, and conveyed to the same chimney, midway in the back wall, so as to unite into one outlet ; but in such case there ought to be an acute level upwards at the place of union, or the two ARTIFICIAL HEAT AND APPARATUS. opposite currents are subject to check the even flow of the smoke, and drive it back. The Polmaise method of heating is a plan that origin- ated with a Mr. Murray, of Polmaise, in Scotland, and, like many other ingenious contrivances, was the result of pecu- liar necessity. At the time of its introduction, it caused a great furor amongst the seekers after novelties, and like the fugacious follies of such persons, it soon fell into dis- repute with all, excepting those who were determined not to acknowledge their error. To say the best we can in its favor, it is only a modified flue. The principle, if so it may be called, consists in having a hot air chamber over and outside the furnace, and conducting the heat therein generated through one or more apertures into the house at one end, and at the other having a hole level with the floor, which forms the top of a drain that is conducted along under ground to the furnace, and which supplies the fire with fresh air to support combustion. By these means the heat from the chamber is drawn through the house, and a partial < current produced, and from this it was at first predicted that a great benefit would arise, on account of the near imitation to nature's invigorating breezes. If glass was not a rapid conductor of heat, this plausible theory might have been a practical good ; but as it is, and as heat will ascend, in opposi- tion to such a weak power to repress it, a great portion flows along at the top and back pail of the house, leav. Fig. 13. THE GRAPE. Fig. 14. ing the lower part, or front, cold ; which, if there be a dif- ference, ought to be the warmest. The only way in which this plan can be tolerated, or be of advantage, is, to combine the cham- ber and flue, and make use of both. This is economizing, as the whole of the heat which radiates from both sources is made available. Figs. 13 and 14 show a longitudinal and transverse cross section of both com- bined. In concluding, we may say, that after many years' practice with most kinds of heating apparatus for hot-houses, we are thor- oughly convinced that none is so efficient or economical as hot water, and have never found any on that principle to supercede the boiler, as exhibited in Fig. 12. CHAPTER IV. BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. THE formation of beds, or more technically borders, in which to grow the grape vine is of great importance, per- haps more so than any other portion of the whole routine of culture, for without a proper matrix in which the roote may luxuriate, it is impossible to succeed. The more important any branch of horticulture is, often the greater the number of opinions respecting it. This is strictly true, in the present instance. Some have advo- cated the admixture of great quantities of raw animal car- casses, in such quantities, and large masses, that one would think, if their reasoning were true, that a recently filled cholera burial-ground, would be the best place on which to erect a grapery, or plant a vineyard. Others again have recommended large doses of blood, and the stink- ing offal of slaughter-houses, in so fresh a state that the very idea is enough to nauseate the strongest stomach, and forbid the cultivation of this luscious fruit. Fortu- nately these materials are not required, although when thoroughly decomposed and well mixed with maiden earth, there is no objection to the using of a portion incorporated through the mass. It often happens when thus applied, that a very vigorous growth is produced for a time, but sufficient strength can be had without these stinking nui- sances. If used at all, it should be in the form of top- dressings in after years, and forked in, by which the fer- tility will be assisted, without making the whole bed into 3 (49) 50 THE GRAPE. an unctuous paste, more fit to puddle a duck pond with, than for the tender and fleshy roots of the grape vine to luxuriate in. If proof of this were wanted, there are plenty of examples if they were to be examined, where the roots that have come into contact with these masses of soap-like substances, before they were thoroughly de- composed, have been found quite rotten, and if the vines have continued to do well, it is not from the nutriment derived from them, but from their ready adaptability to form fresh spongeoles from the back roots, which may have travelled in other directions, and with good treat- ment added. The advocates of this putrid animal matter, contend for the greater invigorating powers and more lasting proper- ties, than is to be found in barnyard manure, or decayed vegetable substances. To the first we will agree, pro- viding the stimulating portions be administered in a proper manner, and here ends this part of the difference ; but how it is to be more lasting, is another part of the subject. It is a well-known fact, that highly nitrogenized manures, during decomposition, give off very freely the volatile ammonia con- tained in them, and as this is a great stimulant to vegeta- tion during active development, it is easily seen how such wonderful effect is produced ; as this exciting principle, from its evanescent properties, percolates into every aper- ture in its escape, and no doubt a portion is taken up in a gaseous state by the young and readily absorbing spon- geoles. But does it follow, that this is any proof of per- manent action. Judging from the premises it would appear the very reverse, and the frequent use of other manures of a similar character guano, for instance have clearly demonstrated, that oft-repeated applications with occa- sional additions of carbonaceous organic bulk, and other inorganic assistance, have to be applied to maintain fer- BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 51 tility, where the same spot is constantly cropped. In the present subject we are precisely in this position, and there ought to be great regard for the future constitutional power, if a healthy after-life be cared for, which is not to be acquired by the excessive quantity of these helps, that only act upon the vegetable, in the same manner as do alcoholic drinks upon the human system. All our best physicians acknowledge the good effects of stimu- lants in particular kinds of disease, when administered with skill, and everybody knows how soon the strongest constitution is broken down by the great quantities that too many indulge in. So it is with the grape vine ; we all commence with endeavoring to gain strong, and more than natural growth, but there certainly is no reason why we should keep our plants in a continual state of intoxica- tion, from the moment of their first awaking in the spring, till they finally rest on the approach of winter, and still leaving the same baneful influence, to diffuse itself over the whole outer surface of the roots (which are equivalent to the mouths of animals), until the next season's warmth again arouses their action. We would not by any means have it understood, that we are opposed to the judicious use of ammonia, or any of the other compounds that are to be found in more abundance in the animal, than in the vegetable bod'y ; but do protest against the inordinate mixture of such, often to the exclusion of other, and more necessary bases, and which leaves the plant after a few years of undue excitement, a prey to disease and prema- ture decay. If success has seemed to attend the progress in some instances, the failures have been much greater, and unprejudiced experience shows, that more injury than benefit has arisen from the admixture of animal matter, even in small quantities, and in anything like a fresh state. These remarks are only intended to apply to the fleshy 52 THE GKAPE. and quickly putrefying portions of the animal body, with- out any reference to the bones. Here we will subscribe to the recommendation, because it is consistent with na- tu^e, and furnishes along with other useful properties, the often most wanting requirement, lime ; in this all grape growers are agreed, and the invariable prosperity of our pet, in places where limestone abounds among the soil, produces the most conclusive evidence. There is little doubt but the want of this substance is the reason why some of our vignerons have occasion to complain of rot and want of success in various ways ; and here we may ask, whoever saw a grape vine that did not do well, and produce fruit of good quality, providing the climate was suitable, and the roots could creep along under the soil, and lie upon the surface or in the fissures of a limestone rock. There are other persons who make the beds from three to four feet deep of suitable materials, but use such quan- tities of the richer quality, with insufficient drainage, that the whole bulk, after a time, becomes sodden, and imper- vious to either sun or air, in which no root can exist, much less extend itself. These are some of the many causes why our graperies so soon become weak and unproduc- tive; yet the natural constitutional powers of the grape vine are very strong, and of great longevity ; it is a gross feeder and can absorb a large amount of food, but when thus maltreated, although it may bear such usage for a time with much pertinacity, it will in the long run (like an overgorged glutton) become deranged, its physical func- tions will be weakened, and it either dies of plethora, or wears on an exhausted existence, producing little or noth- ing but watery leaves, and weakly branches. If such very .strong growth were really requisite to pro- duce the finest bunches, or berries, and could be obtained BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 03 by these means, there would be some excuse for thus abusing nature ; but such is not the fact, for the most superior and best flavored fruit, is had from solid, well ripened, and vigorous, but not over-fed wood. When the bearing shoots are unduly strong, there are frequently two or more developed from a bud, while with moderate growth only one is formed, and as each of these buds having received its share of nutriment, wherewith to start future development, thus takes from the others a portion, the consequence must be (as only one can remain) a weaker action at first, and correspondingly less power afterwards, than would be the case if there was only one centre. The bunches ernenating from such a bud, will also contain generally a greater number of florets, and shoulders, equal to the concentrated accumulation in the embryo shoot ; for it is formed previous to bursting, and before the leaf of the previous season falls, in the axil of which it is fixed. In all cases of permanent success, the grape vine luxu- riates upon a naturally, or artificially well-drained bottom. It is best suited in warm, and comparatively dry climates, and the constitution which nature has fixed, man cannot alter. We must then adapt as near as we can, its position in cultivation to its wants, and if we produce artificially a greater than ordinary amount of growth, we ought to have a corresponding medium whereby to mature that growth. Well-drained borders is one of the means by which this can be accomplished, as the superabundant moisture is taken away, and the air and the sun's heat can more readily penetrate the soil. If the following directions are followed, there will be no reason to complain of want of success on this point. Take out to the depth of two feet, the whole of the up- per surface, then dig a trench two feet wide and one foot deep, with one or more outlets for the water to escape, all 54 THE GRAPE. around the margin of the excavated space, which will form a drain, three feet deep from the top, and one foot below the lower base of the borders ; fill this trench with rough stones, or brick-bats, the rougher the better ; after- wards fill in over the whole surface, about six inches of oyster, or other marine shells if to be had readily, but if not, broken stones, or pieces of brick and lime rubbish will answer, and if a quantity of broken bones are to be got, strew them over themtop of the other drainage ; cover this with turf-sods, or any rough litter, to prevent the soil from falling through and among the drainage, and throw in the prepared compost to one foot above the top level ; this will give a depth of three feet, which will settle down about six inches, leaving the permanent depth two feet six inches, viz. : two feet below and six inches above the ground level. In some situations the original base will be a dead level, when the excavated surface ought to slope from the house towards the outside of the borders, which will cause the water to run the more readily towards the lower drains. Care should be taken in this respect, whatever the level may be, that the bottom is so arranged as to allow the water to escape freely ; the means of securing which will occur to any ordinary mind, according to the level he may have to deal with. It may be thought, that with this amount of drainage, and raised, and not over deep borders, the soil will be- come too dry throughout the summer to maintain vigorous growth, but experience testifies to the contrary, for al- though the under parts will not be over wet, the moisture is equally divided through the whole, and if the upper surface be mulched, examination will prove that every portion is equally damp, and the innumerable small root- lets are ramifying in every direction, each taking its BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 55 allotted portion of work, to supply the structure of the plant with wholesome food. Effectual drainage has not until lately received that share of attention among culti- vators generally which its benefits ought to command, and even at the present day, there is a great want of proper understanding respecting it. To a person who is contented to go along scratching over the ground, sowing seed, and leaving the rest to Nature, it is a difficult problem to solve, how the conducting away water in land that is already too dry and hard in summer can be of any ser- vice. Thanks to science and agricultural chemistry, this is noAv made so clear, by having been so often explained, with examples here and there as proofs, that the mystery is, how men can still remain so blind to their own interests, or entertain any prejudice against what has been so prac- tically demonstrated. Although it is recommended above to make the whole of the borders at once, which is only one trouble and ex- pense, and will answer very well ; yet it is much better to prepare the drainage as advised, and make only half, viz. : that part next to the house, of properly prepared compost, filling in the other with the intended base soil a little enriched, and after the first season's growth, work up in the following fall, into the half of the unfinished portion, the same quantity of fertilizing materials as the former half was mixed with. In the spring, before grow- ing commences, this may be again forked over, which will incorporate all more evenly, and the next fall the remain- ing quarter may be done likewise. By this method the borders are kept loose for a longer time, the air is more freely admitted, and the whole is better adapted for the healthy progress of the roots, which, as they extend from year to year, will penetrate more readily, and fill every portion. The tendency to become solid, is much reduced 56 THE GRAPE. after the borders become filled with roots, as they are always more or less drawing nutriment and moisture, thereby rendering the base soil more porous, when the gases of the atmosphere, which are very beneficial, have a chance of occupying the interstices, and forming chemical combi- nations with the material ; thereby producing a continual renewal of suitable food for the support of vegetable life. We have ample proofs of the correctness of this, and where borders are constructed as above advised, there will be an admission of air, not only from the openings to the drains and from them under the whole bed, but also from above. It is not by administering such enormous doses of stimu- lating, or fertilizing material all at once, and before the roots have progressed in sufficient numbers, or distance, to appropriate it to their use, that we are to calculate upon the most permanent results, or immediate success. So long as we supply from time to time what is required, it is enough, and if we have got well drained and porous bor- ders, we can the more readily apply top-dressings and mulchings in after years, without injury, or covering the roots too deep ; for if*, in efficiently drained ground, a layer of dung be spread over the surface, it will be found after a time, that there is little but dry chaff left, all the soluble parts having been washed by the rains down into the soil below, and the plants will have received the bene- fit of it. With regard to the width of these borders there are many opinions, and different persons have been led by the dictation of fancy into dogmatic assertion, without duly considering the requirements of nature. Now, if we take this for our guide, and, generally speaking, it is the best reasoner, we must provide a large superficial area ; for the roots of the grape vine are great travellers, and will, if allowed their own way, extend over much space, BORDERS OR PREPARED BEDS. 57 consequently free egress and plenty of room must cer- tainly be essential, where the intention is to retain unin- terrupted fertility for a long time ; beside which we ought to consider the close proximity of the vines as they are most commonly planted, and it then becomes still more evident that we ought not to be penurious in this respect. Our own recommendation is to make them ten feet wide at the commencement, add five feet more the next season, an'd five feet again the year following, making a total of twenty feet, which will give ample space for a long time ; but if success should attend the same stock some ten or fifteen years, and the roots at the end of that time are found so closely interwoven, as to be in want of more ex- tension, it would be advisable to add another five feet, so that in making first designs, it is well to forecast after ne- cessaries. Many will, no doubt, think that this is a waste of land that might be turned to advantage in other ways, and others may not have so much ground at command for the purpose. As to the first objection, it may be answered by the simple question of, what more paying crop can be put on the added fifteen square feet that will be required for each vine, than the increase of two or three pounds of good exotic grapes, beside the benefit secured by retain- ing the natural longevity of the plant, where considerable capital has been invested at the outset in erecting a suita- ble house. In the latter case there is the opportunity of reducing the number of vines inside, and extending the branches of those left so as to keep the whole roof covered, thereby giving more root room individually. The very common notion, that a grape vine is so often worn out, deserves to be classed with the things that were, depend upon it, if all its wants are duly supplied, and the house substantially erected, a grapery may be left as a legacy 3* 58 THE GRAPE. to our offspring, instead of being, as it too frequently is, only calculated to become the pleasure of a few years. The most suitable materials for composing the borders are, a good friable loam (the top sod, grass included, of a pasture), with a suitable quantity of partly decomposed stable manure, in proportions of one-fourth of the latter to three-fourths of the former, and a good dressing of broken or ground up bones, say one bushel to every cubic yard in bulk. If the soil contains much lime in its own base, the bones may be dispensed with, but generally they are of much benefit, being a very lasting manure, giving out slowly, and when all the phosphates are exhausted, they still remain as a carbonate of lime, among which the grape vine delights. When the base soil, where the house is to be erected, is of the above nature, it may be used, and the other mate- rials added on the spot, which will save expense. There is often much useless expenditure caused in this way. Never remove away the existing base unless absolutely bad, excepting with little outlay, a much better substitute can be procured ; for by good mixing of the fertilizing matter and drainage to correspond, a poor soil may in many instances be made good, and often when it is consi- dered impracticable, most likely all that is required. Im- perfect drainage is frequently the cause that prevents success, when it is attributed to an unsuitable constituent base. The grape vine is not so capricious in its food as is generally supposed, but a dry bottom it must and will have to prosper. CHAPTER V. PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT THE FIRST YEAR. IN choosing vines for planting, see that the wood is well ripened and solid, and the roots clean and healthy. One year old, propagated from the eye are best for the grapery, or from cuttings for the vineyard, but those of two years are not objectionable. The most proper time for planting is about the beginning of March, under glass, or so soon as the ground is in good working order, out of doors, when the vines have not been prematurely started into growth, as they are then just commencing to move from a long repose, and have no great time to remain in their new quarters before fresh rootlets begin to push forth. When deferred much longer, these fibres are sub- ject to injury, being very brittle. If the vines have been grown in pots, which is generally the case, with the ex- otics, the soil ought to be entirely shaken from them, and the entangled roots carefully straightened out, care being used when planted, that they are spread in all directions diverging from the stem. After loosening up well, and smoothing over the surface around on the base, where it is intended to fix them, have in readiness a quantity of the same material as the border is composed of, broken up fine and mixed with a third portion of leaf-mould, if to be had if not, it is not of much consequence, but the young rootlets soon lay hold of it, and a good start is half the battle. Strew two inches of this compost over the sur- (59) 60 THE GRAPE. face, place the plant thus spread out upon it, and cover with three inches of the same mould. It will be under- stood that this mode of procedure will elevate the crowns of the roots a trifle above the general level, which will prove advantageous afterwards, as a top-dressing can be added without their being buried down below the surface. Avoid deep planting in all cases, for it leads to cankered roots, and places them out of the reach of the warming influence of the sun, and the exhilirating action of the air, both of which are as beneficial to them as are light and heat to the leaves and branches. It is not to be expected that this particularity can be applied to the vineyard, but so far as can be done economically, the same rule holds good. Before planting, cut off the top of the plant to about six or nine inches, or down to two or three good buds. The advantage of leaving more than one being the choice it gives of retaining the most promising when started, when all the worst can be rubbed off. It is sometimes incoiiTenient to plant at the time above recommended from some local cause, in which case, the plants may be removed into pots, if so situated, jof a larger size than those that they were previously in, put to grow in some other house, and attended to as regards heat and moisture, in the same manner as if in their final resting place ; as the young shoots progress in growth, they will require to be carefully tied to a stake fixed up- right in each pot, and as the roots increase, larger sized pots will be requisite to prevent them becoming pot-bound, by which the vigor is consideraby checked. By attending to these points, they may be kept on till June or July, after which, if carefully turned out of the pots, without disturbing the roots any more than can be avoided, a good cane may be obtained the same season, though not often strong enough to bear fruit the following summer j but PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 61 which, if planted in March, can generally be accomplished. After planting, give a good soaking of water to settle the soil around the roots, but do not allow it to become satu- rated afterwards by too oft repeated applications, the ob- ject being to keep it moderately moist, but not sodden, as the tender roots are soon rotted when not drawing freely. If the vines have been prematurely started into growth, which is not desirable ; or it is thought fit to plant those that have been raised from the eye the same spring, the planting ought to be deferred till the middle of April, or beginning of May, even though the house may be ready in due time ; for if planted sooner, they would, under such circumstances, receive a sudden check, from their being removed into a much colder atmosphere than tlfe one they had previously occupied, and which would militate very much against their future prosperity, if not be the cause of failure. We will now suppose that the house is planted and all ready for a favorable beginning. For the first two or three weeks keep all as close and cool as possible, only giving sufficient air to lower the temperature. After this time the house may be kept a little warmer, and the vines syringed overhead two or three times a-day. Do not yet apply much w r ater to the roots, only maintaining moisture enough to keep the soil damp, without becoming soaked, as they have not yet got into brisk action, and conse- quently cannot draw much of it up. Avoid dry winds, and retain a moist atmosphere, allowing the thermometer to rise from 70 to 75 in the middle of the day. By the middle of April the buds will be mostly started, rub off all but the strongest one, and mind that it is not injured, or the top broken out. As the young growth continues to extend, the paths, and the whole interior of the house, and likewise the plants, should be damped with the syringe or 62 THE G RAP K. hose morning and evening, and during dry weather in the middle of the day, avoiding the application in the brightest sunshine. Do not give any bottom air until a vigorous iind strong action is obtained, and not then without great caution, for it causes cold drafts in the lower parts of the house and checks growth, rendering the vines subject to mildew. Shut up early to retain a genial warmth before sunset, and gradually increase the temperature, so that at the beginning of May the thermometer may stand at 90 at mid-day ; in cloudy weather keep all closed and en- deavor to keep as steady a heat as possible. By the latter end of the month, the vines ought to be growing vigor- ously : tie the canes up carefully as they progress, leaving the ties semewhat loose to give room for after swelling, and as the laterals push, pinch them off to one joint, re- serving one or two entire at the top at each pinching in case of accident to the leader, and likewise take clean out the lower ones, or those last left with one leaf, at each future operation. By this mode of proceedure they are gradually reduced, and finally taken away, without endan- gering the bursting of the buds in the axil of the leaf- stalks, the which are wanted for the next year. The heat may now be increased to 95 J , still recollecting to ply the syringe freely, excepting in dull or cold nights, when water ought to be withheld, as under such circumstances it is apt to starve and check the circulation a matter of great importance. The roots will now be extending in proportion to the expansion of head, and must have some attention; for here are the mouths, and here are also the digestive organs, and woe betide the other members of the body if they are not well supplied. Equally with the amount of healthy foliage will they draw moisture from the base in which they are located, so long as free development is PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 63 progressing, aud water ought to be applied to the soil ac- cordingly. As there may be reason in all things, so in this, and the borders ought not to be saturated by too often repeating the application, but of this there is not much danger if the under base is well drained. A fork- ing, both inside and out, over the whole surface, will now be of service, but do not injure or disturb the roots ; this will loosen up and render the bed more porous, and the small rootlets will feel their way more freely, after which a mulching of dung or short grass, four or five inches thick, will prevent evaporation, keep an equal tempera- ture and moisture in the soil, and, during hot and dry weather, will almost entirely prevent the want of that greatest of evil necessities, artificial watering, to the out- side beds. Gradually increase the heat as the vines pro- gress more rapidly ; by the beginning of June it may be allowed to rise from 95 to 10Q Q at mid-day, and if the air is kept damp, scorching from so high a temperature will be prevented, and both combined will enable the plants to develop their fullest energies. Many persons do not give heat enough ; even some of our very best grape growers are sparing in this respect. We ought to consider that, as the grape vine is generally grown under glass, we place it in a position, by the sup- ply of rich food, to produce a more than natural disten- tion of cellular tissue ; the larger leaves also are capable of doing more work, in elaborating the juices drawn up from the roots, and these large leaves being filled with an un- common amount of sap, require a corresponding assistance in the form of heat and light, to properly chemicalize (excuse the expression) this extra quantity of crude fluid. Hence the necessity of a warmer temperature than would suffice for the same plants, if they were growing in the open air, and the roots in a soil only ordinarily fertile. 64 THE GKAPK. When the canes have grown to the top of the roof do not stop them, but train the tops between the vines on the opposite side, if the house be a double pitch ; and if a lean-to, they may be allowed to hang down by the back wall, stopping the leader when it has advanced somewhat doAvnwards, and leave the laterals on the same length. Thus the plants will go on swelling their growth without check, and adding bulk to their structure. Towards the middle of August, the air may be allowed to become somewhat drier, and syringing overhead gradu- ally lessened, as the wood will begin to mature : the lower ventilators may also be opened on clear days a little at first, increasing more from day to day. By the third week in September, water should be withheld altogether, and as the wood will be ripening, air ought to be freely admitted through the day, and the temperature decreased as the canes approach maturity. When the bark becomes brown and the wood solid, the house may be thrown open day and night, excepting in case of frost or heavy rain, as the object now is to let all go quietly to rest, and the leaves to fall off yellow and fully ripe, when we may rest as- sured that nature has done her work according to her own will, and we have assisted her in accordance to her own laws. So soon as the leaves are fallen, proceed to pruning. If all has gone on as it ought to have done, the canes will average five-eighths to nearly one inch in diameter, ac- cording to the natural vigor of each individual variety, and a corresponding length when not stopped, of twenty -five to thirty-five feet. Cut off the strongest to about seven, and the weakest to five feet. Afterwards take out with the point of a knife each alternate bud, which will leave the remainder about fifteen to eighteen inches apart, tne object of which is explained in the chapter on pruning, Commence at the PLANTING AND MANAGEMENT. 65 top, leave three buds, one for next year's leader, and the two others for side spurs ; proceed downwards, leaving each alternate pair (one on each side) to the wall plate, and as beneath this, the leaves and fruit would be out of the sun's influence, and only subject to encourage mil- dew, all buds ought to be removed. The vines may now be carefully washed over with the following preparation, which will destroy the larvae or eggs of insects, if any should be existing. Whale oil soap, one-fourth pound; sulphur, four pounds; tobacco, one-fourth pound ; and nux vomica, one ounce : pour over these boiling water, three gallons, and stir all up until thoroughly mixed ; as the nux vomica is a deadly poison to .animals, care should be taken that it is not left care- lessly about. A soft painter's brush is the best for the purpose, and after the operation the canes may be slung loosely to the wires till the weather begins to be severe, when they should have a coating of straw three or four inches thick tied around them, and the heads brought down one over the other in a horizontal position, about two feet above the ground level, in rows along the lines of plant- ing; this will leave the lower parts of the stem nearly upright, and prevent the crown of the roots from being strained or disturbed. At tne same time, be prepared with a quantity of recently rotted turf sods, or fresh, earth, which has been mixed up two or three months with a third part of good stable or barnyard manure ; fork over the borders both outside and inside of the house, and add a dressing of three inches thick of the above compost. If the crowns were planted slightly elevated, as before recommended, this dressing will make the surface level, and greatly assist the production of young rootlets next spring, besides protecting the tender fibres through the winter. Over the whole area may be put a good coating 66 THE GRAPE. of littery dung, tree leaves, or other such material to keep out the frost, and which may remain as a mulching next summer. Nothing further is now required, but to shut up the house on severe nights and wet weather, till the buds show signs of bursting in the following spring. CHAPTER VI. MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR AND PERMANENT TREATMENT FOR THE COLD GRAPERY. THE following observations contain directions for the treatment of a planting of vines in the second year, the permanent management of the Cold Grapery, and some other details of a general character. As the winter milds off, and warm sunny days com- mence, give air sufficient to keep the house cool, and to prevent the buds from pushing as long as possible. If too soon excited, the young shoots are in danger of being injured by the late spring frosts, and cold storms. When it is perceived that the buds are swelling, and can no longer be kept back, take the covering off carefully, and tie the vines down in the form of an arch, with the heads leaning from the glass, as in this position they are not so subject to injury in case frost should occur; there is also the advantage of causing a more lateral propelling force to the rising sap, which is compelled to develop the lower buds with more certainty, and this action once gained, with after good management always remains. Give a good and thorough soaking of water to the inside borders, which by this time will have become very dry, also syringe overhead two or three times a day, excepting when the weather is cold, or frost is to be expected, they will be assisted thereby to break uniformly and strong. (67) 68 THE GRAPE. The temperature should now be regulated as advised for the same period last year, in the preceding chapter. When the young shoots begin to elongate, sling the canes loosely to the wires, but some distance from the glass, as the further off for a short time the safer they will be from accidental frosty nights. So soon as danger is past, tie them finally in their places, leaving the strings loose enough for future swelling, and be careful in training the leading shoot upwards, as at this time it is very brittle and easily broken. If not quite straight with the older cane, the better way is to bring it into the right position, a little at a time, when the woody fibre begins to form in the base. The bunches will now be clearly discernible, and when they have fairly unfolded from the buds, so as to show their form, and comparative strength, take out all except- ing the strongest and handsomest one upon each shoot, and remove likewise the tops of the side branches, beyond the third or fourth leaf above the bunch. These will again break from the top eye, and as they do so, from time to time, nip out the leader to one leaf above where it was last stopped ; this keeps the branches within bounds, and at the same time leaves sufficient foliage to mature the fruit and perfect growth. When the blossoms begin to expand withhold water overhead, let the atmosphere become somewhat drier, and keep up a little more heat, and if the weather will allow it, a freer circulation of air, from 85 to 90 at mid-day is not too much, close with good warmth in the afternoon and open soon enough in the morning, to prevent a scald- ing smell in the house. At all times, with a clear sun in the morning, ventilate so soon as the house begins to warm a little, and close early ; the temperature by these means rises and falls gradually. Nothing is worse in all plant MANAGEMENT FOli THE SECOND YEAR. 69 culture, than allowing a house to be closed until it becomes hot, and admitting at once a great quantity of cold air; in grape growing, it leads to the most baneful results. Open soon, and close early, ought to be a maxim well riveted on the mind. Always have a thermometer hanging mid- way in the house, about four feet from the ground, and shaded from the sun ; observe it closely, and be guided by it, and experience in ventilating will soon be acquired, better than can be described by words always remem- bering that a gradual rise and fall are the desiderata. Attention for a little while will teach, that early closing tends to regulate the heat in the after part of the day, and a due observance will lead to exact adaptability. As the flowers continue to open, go over the house once a day, and shake the bunches by a light flirt of the finger, which assists in distributing the pollen, and enables impregnation to go on with more certainty. This opera- tion is best if performed in the morning, about the time or immediately after giving air, as the flowers of all plants are then in greater activity, and consequently there is the chance of more perfect fertilization. There are certain kinds, as the Alexandrian Muscat and its allies, purple damask, &C M which do not readily fertilize with their own pollen in a cold house ; that may be much assisted by shaking over the flowers a bunch of Hamburgh or other hardy sort, and as there are more bunches than is required for ripening, there is always enough to spare for this purpose. When blossoming is past, and the berries are fairly set, a good syringing over-head will clean all the decayed portions of flowers which cling to and among the berries, and will invigorate the whole plant. Let water now be freely administered over every part, being careful that at no time it is driven with force against the fruit, as in such case it injures the surface, and produces " rust." 70 THE GltAFE. It will now be plainly seen which are the best set and handsomest bunches, and as there are more than it is ad- visable to ripen off, on account of the youth of the vines, and the consequent danger of overbearing, thereby injuring their permanent prosperity, it will be better to reduce the number according to the strength of the plant, or weight of the bunch. A cane of three-fourths inch diameter may be allowed to carry from six to seven, and one of half an inch, five to six pounds ; but when they are smaller than this, only one, or at most two bunches ought to remain. Some kinds form much larger bunches than others, which may be ascertained in some measure while young, and the number may be calculated accordingly. A well shouldered Hamburgh will weigh from one and a half to two and a half pounds; if very large, from three and a half to four pounds ; while the Malvesia is a large bunch of its kind at ten ounces. Better to be guided by comparative weight than number of bunches, as greater equality is gained, and the vines are rendered more uniform in vigor afterwards. Be it remembered, that it is much more diffi- cult to bring back energy where a part is injured, than \vhen the whole is so, for the well-doing will take the lion's share of nutriment from the borders. In removing the superfluous clusters take out the worst formed and most weakly, and let the greater part be near the top of the plant, leaving the bottom spurs as free as possible ; for a vine while young is prone to push its strongest growth upwards. By bearing the upper part the heaviest, the circulation is equipoised, and the lower laterals are re- lieved, arid if the flow is encouraged to take a lateral course at first, it is much easier to retain the same after- wards. There is no occasion to crowd all the crop at the top, only let the greater part be there and the object is accomplished. MANAGEMENT FOB THE SECOND YEAR. 71 All is now to be considered in full action, the grapes about the size of peas, and swelling fast, when it becomes necessary to commence thinning out the superfluous berries. First, tie out the side branches, in a horizontal position to the wires, if not already done ; then fasten a string to the end of each shoulder, and sling it up, at right angle with the stalk, to the wires also ; the smaller clus- ters may now be opened out by inserting small strips of wood, notched on the two ends, under them, and supported upon the projecting stalks below. This will open out the bunch, and prevent the weight of each cluster from bear- ing upon the lower berries. Next, proceed to cut out a part of the berries, commencing at the bottom, and leaving those for ripening far enough apart to allow the aggregate to swell up, without squeezing each other individually when fully grown. Some care is required in this operation, and also a little idea, for the object is to leave to each berry sufficient space to allow for full development, and yet not so far apart as to make the bunch loose and straggling. No exact rule can be given as to distance required, but generally, one half to two thirds ought to be cut away ; the larger berried kinds will need more thin- ning than the smaller, there is also a great difference in the setting, but a reference to the descriptive list hereafter given will be a guide ; the latest sorts too, and those in- tended to hang longest, should be more distant than the others; for, when a little assunder from each other, the grapes keep much longer than when they are crowded. An experienced hand can tell pretty accurately how to thin, so as to make once going over nearly suffice, but for beginners, it is perhaps better to perform the operation at two or three times as they swell up. After the first year's practice the right idea is gained, and there is no difficulty afterwards. When thinning, do not handle the berries, 72 TUB GRAPE. or let the hair rub them, for while young, the skins are very soon injured, when they become disfigured, and marked with a russety roughness which is technically called rust. Continue to keep up a temperature of 90 to 100 through the day, and use water freely ; damp the lower part of the house two or three times between morning and evening, and, when syringing at sundown, force the water into all crevices and corners of the wood-work, to dislodge insects. Where this is attended to, red spider, or other such pest, will never do any harm. Do not wait until these vermin make their appearance, but always act on the principle, " prevention is better than cure.'* As the leading shoot continues to progress, train it over the top to the opposite side, as advised for last year, and when it interferes with the fruit spurs in its downward course, pinch out the top, as it would cause too much crowding, and deprive the leaves from receiving due light. In very dry weather it will be necessary to use water on the outside borders ; generally, one or two applications is enough for the season ; but if severe drought should continue, it will be advisable to repeat the operation every two weeks, till the fruit begins to color ; after which there is no occasion for more, as there will be plenty of moisture in the ground for all purposes. Were it not so generally considered that large berries are a part of perfection, we should be disposed to recommend the withholding of water at an earlier period ; and those who would prefer a rich, sugary grape, regardless of size, will be more sure to get it by using water very sparingly after the stoning process is fairly secured. Under these circumstances there is also a better chance of producing good color, as the drier the atmosphere and borders of a Cold Grapery, the less danger MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 73 of mildew ; consequently, a greater supply of fresh air may be admitted with safety, the result of which is, more solid- ity of fruit, a greater concentration of saccharine matter, and, as a matter of course, a nearer approach to the natural shades of color. When water is applied outside, let it be a thorough soaking no mere dribbling, but sufficient to penetrate down and through the borders. The mulching which was applied previous to winter should also be ex- amined, and if the surface is not well covered, add more. If the liquid drainings of a dunghill can be had, so much the better ; but, first, dilute with an equal portion of soft or rain water, and never use it but in a clear state, as otherwise it clogs up the porosity of the soil, and renders it sodden and " sour." The drainage from a cow-house is also very good, but ought not to be applied until some- what fermented, as, while caustic, the salts contained in it are very destructive to the roots. Many persons apply liquid manures, of various kinds, -without caution, and often do much injury thereby, while, if rightly used, they are of the greatest advantage. By the second week in July, some of the earliest sorts will begin to change for ripening, when water may be dispensed with overhead, but still applied to the roots in clear weather, which will cause the atmosphere to be drier. With the ripening of the fruit comes also an approach towards maturity of the wood, and during this period, water is only essential to keep up a healthy action, and should be gradually discontinued. As a little quantity, often distributed, only damps the surface, and the evaporation resulting therefrom produces a moist at- mosphere when a dry one is wanted, the times of applying it ought to be less often j but when done, a good soaking should be given. Once a week, for two or three weeks, will be enough, and after that time once in two weeks, up to the middle of September, when it may be withheld entirely. 4 74 THE GRAPE. As the grapes continue to color, admit more air in clear days, open the lower ventilators, a little at first, gradually increasing, till a free current is obtained, which will assist very much in improving the quality in all respects, and likewise help in ripening the wood. After all are ripe, the house may be thrown open day and night, excepting in storms or wet weather, when it ought to be partially closed, so as to exclude the rain, and at the same time leave air to prevent the grapes from be- coming mouldy or cracked. When frosty nights begin to occur, the house ought to be closed in the evening, and opened again early in the morning. Let the temperature gradually cool down, but keep the leaves from injury, for the grand object now is to preserve them until they fall off perfectly ripe, when we know that nature is satisfied, and the wood sufficiently matured to insure all requirements for another season's development. Immediately after the leaves are fallen is the best time to prune ; and as we are now considered to be dealing with vines which have had two summers' growth, cut down the cane of the present season to the same length, according to size or vigor, and likewise disbud it, as ad- vised for the last fall pruning, which will make a total length from the bottom of nine to twelve feet. Cut the side spurs to three or four buds from the extreme base, according as they may be plump or well rounded, and at the same time peel off the loose bark from the outside of the stem which has two seasons' growth, but do not injure that which is immediately beneath the loose outer cover- ing, nor remove any from the side spurs, or the present summer's cane. The object of this peeling is to prevent the lodgment of insects ; with this exception, it would be better left on, for nature never forms any covering but MANAGEMENT FOR THE SECOND YEAR. 75 what is useful ; but as this outer and loose bark is virtu- ally dead, it is of no further use than protection against cold ; so that if the vines are carefully covered from ex- treme frost, there is no harm in taking it off. The vines may now be washed over with the prepara- tion, as advised for last year, and brought down into the same horizontal position ; and as it is not easy to cover the spurs, if wrapped around with straw, the better way is to have long, narrow boxes, open at the ends, or to cover loosely with marsh hay, or evergreen boughs. Let the house remain open through the winter, excepting in stormy, wet, or very severe frosty weather, and shut up the doors at night, to prevent rats or mice from getting in, as they will gnaw the bark, and do much mischief. It is a good plan to keep a cat inside. A week or two previous to the leaves falling, fork over the borders carefully, both outside and inside ; by doing it at this time, any small rootlets which may be unavoid- ably broken will have time to heal up before winter sets in. When severe weather is apprehended, cover over the whole surface with three or four inches of good stable ma- nure, and add an additional layer of litter or leaves of about the same depth to prevent the frost from entering, and make " assurance doubly sure." As the general routine of this season's practice will ap- ply to all others, so far as the Cold Grapery is concerned, it is useless to follow this part of the subject further, than by stating (as we are treating of a set of vines in the first bearing), that the average crop may be doubled next year, according to robustness and health, which will admit of ten to fourteen pounds of grapes being taken off each, pro- viding all are healthy. It is well to observe the progress of any which do not keep pace with the rest, and where there is a want of vigor, to ease accordingly, by not allow- 76 THE GKAPE. ing them to carry so much fruit as the stronger ones. A much larger weight than the above might be left to ripen under some circumstances, but, as a general rule, it would not be advisable, where permanent prosperity is desired. What is mentioned is easily attainable, and nothing is advised that I have not practically found to succeed as described. In pruning in the fall of the third season there is some difference, which will be found fully described in the chapter on pruning. CHAPTER VII. THE EARLY GRAPERY, OR FORCING HOUSE. WHEN the gardener aspires to the high attainment of modifying or improving landscape, he ought to possess the marvellous ideality of the poet, and should be acquainted with those nice perceptions of light and shade that the most sensitive painter is endowed with ; but when his abilities are applied to the forcing of the grape, it may be said that he puts his best practical talent and observing faculties in the most elevated position. It is true that there are many details of another character which require as much skill, and they may be as successfully carried out, but the popularity of this justly esteemed fruit eclipses everything else, and he looks with feelings of enthusiastic pride upon the crop, as he views the fine clusters hanging from his thrifty vines. Those who are satisfied to have ripe grapes by the mid- dle or latter end of June, need incur no very extraordinary expense, but whoever would require the same at the be- ginning of May, must expect to swallow dear morsels, and there are not many, excepting those who have wealth at command that will attempt it. There is, however, a grow- ing desire to enjoy the luxury, and increased encourage- ment is given to the commercial cultivator in the higher prices that are now to be obtained. May we hope that this encouragement will progress, and that, although it has not hitherto been sufficient, yet it may become so great as to (77) 78 THE GRAPE. bring a larger supply into market. However energetic our most scientific fruit-growers may be, and in tliis they are, to say the least of it, on a par with any other profes- sion, yet it cannot be expected, that they will supply an article which will not meet with some profit. To this they are entitled by the standard of reward which is given to other attendants upon refinement, and why should there be a lack in this instance, for those who set a dish of lus- cious, tempting grapes before their guests at so early a period, not only show their own hospitality to the invited, but also pay a compliment to scientific horticulture, give a stimulus to the exertions of the skilful practitioner, and encourage the development of that important contributor to the country's wealth, Pomology. It has become fashion- able to display a handsome arrangement of flowers on the festive board at a time when every blade of vegetation seems withered by the frigid blast ; no expense is here spared, and why should it not be as much desired, to have an equally rare representation of fruit ? Let Pomona and Flora meet on equal terms at our entertainments, recognize each alike, and we shall prove that we can appreciate all parts of the garden which the all wise Designer of the universe has committed to our care and keeping, and which he has commanded us to improve. When very early forcing is desirable, it ought never to be attempted with plants that have not been previously subjected more or less to the same process. If the vines are young, they may, in the first year of bearing, be for- warded somewhat, and in the next year they will be in a fit state to be worked early. With older plants the case is somewhat different, particularly if they be spur-pruned, for there is a greater tendency to burst the buds ; still, even in this case, it were better if they had been forwarded the season previous. It is often argued that the continual THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORGING HOUSE. 79 forcing of the same stock weakens, and eventually wears out the plant, in consequence of which it is best to alter- nate ; to a certain extent we may admit, that there is some truth in this, but not so much as some would seem to think ; if the borders were to be kept warm, and the roots attended to with the same care as the tops, there would not be so many examples of early imbecility to complain of. True, all may be done that ingenuity can invent, and yet the exact growing temperature of summer will not be obtained artificial heat is not so stimulating as that of the sun, but in our ^cloudless clime, even in the winter time, there is much bright and clear weather, which con- siderably assists our action, and if not quite so favorable as we could wish, it is sufficiently so to enable us, with good management and proper conveniences, to so far suc- ceed that a house of vines will admit of being uninter- ruptedly forced for many years in succession, and with far more certainty than the exploded notion of resting. It is more reasonable, and much more consistent with nature, that the same periodical action should be allowed to go on, provided it is not opposed to the peculiar consti- tution of any particular plant, and in the case before us, there does not seem to be anything unnatural, unless the allowing of a greater length of time for the full concentra- tion of the juices can be called such, and it is well known that the finest grapes, and most prosperous vines, are to be found in those countries which have longer and steadier summers than our own. So that, if all is well done that ought to be done during the earlier stages of development, the plants have all the remainder of the summer to mature their wood from the embryo fruit buds, and prepare for the more willing start the next season. Of course we may over-do this like most other things ; as the grape vine, with the great amount of heat that we have through the 80 THE GRAPE. summer, and that which is given in the greatest ex- tremes of forcing, will be subjected to as much if not more of that element than is to be found in the very hottest parts of the world, in which regions our present subject does not thrive ; but in the most extreme cases, it is better to commence anew when nature is so far exhausted as to be no further remunerative, and as in establishments where this is required, there are always several houses at work, there is no difficulty in having the worn-out lot replaced by another planting. Where grapes are required so early, as above mentioned, it is necessary that the outside borders should have a share of attention, and we here take the opportunity of offering a few general remarks on this head. If we refer to those localities or climates where vegeta- tion prospers best, and to the most fruitful regions, we shall find that there is no great disparity in the average degree of heat between the atmosphere and the ground in which the roots of plants exist ; consequently, there is a reciprocity, and an equal action, or equal quiescence over all parts. We know likewise from experience, that if the head of any plant were exposed to summer heat, and the roots in the cold of an ice house, prosperity could not long continue ; in such a case, if it were positively seen, we should know the evil results that would follow, and alter the circumstances accordingly, yet strange to say, there are some men at the present day, strongly at- tached to planting the grape vine outside of the house, and still stranger, the same persons are more particularly so when forcing is intended ; such men will argue that in this position, the roots more readily progress through the outside borders, and that it is indispensably necessary, as they have seen fine grapes grown in this way. Such logic is, however, contrary to all true physiological reasoning, THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 81 for we all know the benefit of keeping all parts of other plants in an equal temperature, or if there is any difference to be made, a gentle bottom heat under and among the roots, and also about the lower parts of the stems, con- duces to healthfulness and success. Why then should the grape vine be made an exception, for it is subject to and is governed by the same laws as other parts of the vege- table kingdom, and the reason why it does not so soon resist the bad treatment which is so often practised upon it, is on account of its greater docility of constitution. For late crops the planting outside is not of so much conse- quence, as the natural temperature only differs compara- tively little from the inside, but for early forcing, it is absolutely requisite that the stems should be in the house, and if possible, the roots ought to be kept in the same temperature as the tops. To accomplish this desideratum, some of the best cultivators in Britain cover over the bor- ders during winter and spring, with a sufficient depth of fer- menting manure, and replenish it as the heat decreases ; this may do well enough where the winters are not severe, but in such a climate as the Middle and Northern States of America, the same practice cannot be satisfactorily adopted, for, owing to the severity of the weather, there would be no end to labour, and the quantity of material required ; so that we ought to have recourse to other and more con- venient means to accomplish the same end, if we wish to acquire the best results, a"nd endanger as little as possible the welfare of the plants. We may get along pretty well by covering over with a good depth of tree leaves, or other like material, that will arrest the escape of the heat contained in the soil, and prevent the penetration of cold, and this will answer well enough when gentle forcing only is practised, but it is nothing more than a make-shift job for earlier crops, and answers a very poor purpose. A 4* 82 THE GRAPE. better substitute, and a much more effectual plan, is to cover the border with glazed sashes, or wooden shutters, and to conduct an extra pipe from the hot-water apparatus, or a length of flue, which may be conveyed around the outside, and sunk in a cavity, so that the top .may be open, and even with the surface. During the time when forcing is going on, the heat may in this way be made to circulate over the surface, and forms a stratum of warm air within the chamber made by the covering, which need not to be elevated more than six inches above the upper level of the border, so as to keep the collected heat more im- mediately near the roots, and by limiting the space to be heated, prevent waste. Wooden shutters are best, so far as retaining the heat is concerned, there is likewise no dan- ger of breakage, but glass sashes have the advantage of collecting a considerable degree of caloric during sunshine, and will somewhat counterbalance the loss occasioned by its conducting properties. No doubt some persons, who may be disposed to have early grapes, may think such appurtenances very troublesome and expensive, to which we would answer, if a thing is worth doing at all, do it well, for all horticultural products are cheapest when well attended to, and such a convenience once obtained will last many years, as it may be removed in the summer sea- son, and packed away, and the channel in which the out- side heating apparatus is placed, may at the same time be covered over, to prevent any unsightly appearance, further than the r.ow of boards or flags, as the top will be level with the surrounding surface. That good grapes have been and still will continue to be forced early without such an appendage is reasonably admitted, but is it not more in accordance with nature, to supply the roots with warmth at the same time as the branches, and is there not a greater probability that success will be more certain, and the yield THE EAULY GRAPKRY Oil FORCING HOUSE. 83 comparatively superior, besides the enabling the plants to go through the various stages of development, and after concentration, with less injury to the whole body. As stated above, it is generally conceded that a house cannot be forced very early, for many years, without the vines becoming weak and exhausted, consequently many growers go on the plan of alternating from one house to another, each, or every other season ; thereby, as they ac- knowledge, resting the vines. "Where all other requisites are added to good culture, there is no necessity for this, for, when once a plant has been induced by forcing to break early, it is afterwards disposed to the same, and it only requires half the amount of heat to start such a plant that will be necessary for one that has not been brought the season previous to the same condition. As to the weak and slender bearing wood, it is quite reasonable that that is a consequence of the tops being unduly excited while the roots are confined in a cold base, and therefore have not the power to supply the plant with the proper juices in sufficient quantity for its own development. The best cultivators are aware of this fact, and the adoption of the above plan has resulted in the most marked success, and we have known houses which were forced year after year, produce heavy crops of fine fruit, when the borders were covered as advised above. It is not to be expected that as fine bunches or as large berries can be obtained from the earliest forcing, but that a good quality may be had uninterruptedly, is a fact that needs no further demon- stration. For the first early crop, the vines ought to be pruned in October, and if the leaves are not fallen at the time, let what are still left remain on for, until they become fully ripe and change color the structure of the plant is receiv- ing more matured body. Commence operations the latter 81 THE GRAPE. part of November, by tying down the heads of the vines as before advised, and as it is presumed that the inside borders have become very dry, give a thorough soaking of water over the whole interior, wash well into all chinks and cre- vices of the wood-work to dislodge insects, their eggs, or larvae; maintain for eight or ten days a night temperature of 45, allowing it to rise to 60 or 65 with clear sunlight ; at the end of this time increase the heat for the next two weeks to 50 by night, and 65 to 70 by day, with a free use of the syringe over the vines, and keep a quantity of evaporating pans on the flues or pipes constantly filled with water. All artificial heat, excepting the open tank, has a tendency to dry the air inside forcing houses more rapidly than that from the sun, and as in the earlier stages of de- velopment, a damp atmosphere is particularly requisite, this point cannot be too carefully attended to. According as the heat is increased, let the moisture correspond fancy a warm April morning, and imitate that as near as possible. The buds will be swelling by this time, and most likely the weather severe, when care must be used in ventilating. Our own practice in all plant culture is, not to admit any bottom air from the front lights through the winter months, being convinced from repeated experiments in different ways, and with many plants, that is one of the most injurious methods that can be resorted to. The temperature may be sufficiently lowered, and a current of wholesome air maintained, by letting the heat pass off at the top ventilators, which it is sure to do from its own re- duced specific gravity, and accordingly as it escapes there is a certainty of a fresh supply being drawn in through the laps of the glass, and other apertures, which .occur even in the tightest constructed houses; depend upon it the lower or front part of any winter worked house, will at all times be cool enough, without purposely introducing a THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 85 stream of cold air to pass over and among the leaves, as it traverses upwards, and forces the heat out ; most of the mildew that attacks roses and verbenas in the winter time is produced by this cause, and if such plants as these suffer, surely the grape vine must share the same fate. One of the worst things that we have to deal with in forcing this fruit is the extreme difference of the outside temperature from that which is essential for its well-doing inside of the house ; and particularly during its more easily injured stages, there are the most frigid blasts to contend against, and very sudden transitions, from dull or cloudy weather, to bright sunshine ; owing to which it behooves us to study carefully how we proceed, and imitate as nearly as we can those peculiarities of natural climate which observation shows to be. conducive to the most healthy development. This is more particularly mentioned here, because many persons are prone to take advantage of all the little oppor- tunities that occur to admit "fresh air," without taking into consideration these principles in trying to accomplish the object in view. So soon as the buds are well burst, the vines may be tied to the wires in their permanent position, and the heat very slowly but gradually increased ; if it were possible to be so exact, about two thirds of a degree per night and one each day in clear weather would be about an average, until 65 at night, and 80 to 90 by day (according as it might be cloudy or sunshine) were arrived at. As the shoots continue to elongate, tie them to the side wires, but be careful not to commence this operation too soon, as they are very brittle, and subject to break off at the axil when young. The bunches by this time will be readily seen and as the future treatment with regard to fertilization, stop- ping, thinning, &c., is the same as explained in the last chapter, there is no occasion for repetition. The greatest 86 THE GRAPE. difference now required between tliis and the Cold Grapery, is, in maintaining as nearly as possible the same growing temperature, which is more simply obtained when the weather is genial ; and from what explanations are given, it will only require a little observation on the part of the cultivator to carry out these instructions. When the fruit begins to ripen, the front lights may be opened on soft and mild days, but not otherwise, for any- thing like a sudden check will injure the color, and stay the carbonic chemical change which at this time is going on in the fruit, by which the sugar may more or less abound, according as this action is encouraged or inter- cepted. It is also advisable at this exact period, that the night temperature be kept very carefully up to the average until the fruit is fully ripe ; a trifle of prolonged firing more than pays for the small extra quantity of fuel and labor, by the better sample which is thereby gained. If the outside borders are covered by glass or shutters they will require an occasional supply of water, say three or four times between the period of the fruit setting and the final swelling, which may be accomplished by lifting the covers, one by one, for the time being, when the wea- ther is mild, and never use water which is cold for this or any other purpose in grape-growing. Have a tank large enough for all uses situated in some convenient part of the house, and keep it filled, so that what is applied may be of an equal temperature, or nearly so with the air. When the fruit is all well ripened, it is desirable to keep a part of it for successional use, and the house may now be freely ventilated during clear and warm weather, but when fog, damp, or cold prevails, the air ought to be only partially admitted. There is no occasion to fear mil- dew in an early forced house, but no advantage is to be gained by submitting the fruit, or even leaves, at this THE EARLY GRAPERY" OR FORCING HOUSE. 87 stage, to the extreme changes that frequently occur. This free ventilation will, in the course of a week or two, prepare the leaves for the full and uncontrolled action of the air, and the house may then be left open night and day throughout the remainder of the season, and there will be no further trouble than stopping the too extended growth, or an occasional thorough syringing over all parts to check the red spider, thrips, or other insects, the two first of which become a great pest to early forced vines when not attended to. To obtain a second early crop, which may be considered to be ripe by the middle of June, or early part of July, it will be necessary to apply fire heat from the beginning or middle of February, as the case may be ; and as all the details of management have been heretofore explained, the same practice, with slight modifications, will be appli- cable. The annexed journal, which was kept by the writer, during the progress of a house of this character last year, giving the temperature inside the house, and outside in the shade, at sunrise, noon, and ten o'clock at night with the current kind of weather, and occasional remarks, will, perhaps, supply any deficiency that may have accidentally occurred. DATE. JXSIDE. OUTSIDE WKATHER. REMARKS. eh. 3d 40.60.4- I7.2z.15 Cloudy, with snow House thoroughly cleansed 4th 41.63.41 16.21.1-2 Clear. and the inside borders 6th 41.65.42 18.38.24 Partially cloudy. well soaked with water. 6th 43.62.45 12.26.14 Clear. 7th 43.62.47 14:36.24 Cloudy afternoon. Forked inside, and covered etfa 41.61.45 34.48.44 Heavy rain all day w^th rotted manure. 9th 47.70.52 35.47.34 Clear. 10th 48.73.50 33.46.20 Syringed regularly over- llth 12th 46.76.49 47.71.50 16.21.18 21.32.24 head morning- and night. 13lh 14th 49.68.55 51.65.58 38.41.36 36.40.34 Foggy all day. 15th 52.66.68 34.38.36 16th 50.65.54 36.41.24 Cloudy till noon. 17th 51.75.56 20.39.16 Clear. 18th 55.80.58 22.37.32 88 THE GRAPE. DATE. IXSIDE. OUTSIDE WEATHER. REMARKS. Feb. 19tl f4.74.5 o6.4l/ij Cloudy till noon 20tl 56.71.5' 26.28.2-2 Severe snow storm. 21s 52.74.5P 23.36.22 Storm continued. 22d 60.82.61 i8.44.3t Clear. Giizzly Frontignan. begin to 23d 58.81.5:-. 16/29.12 Clear, strong wind. burst the tuds. 24tt 57.85.60 12.38.30 I'arlially clouded. 26t! 58.88.5: 20.36.24 Jitar. White, Frontignan and Chas- 2ft! 57.69.60 3U.4S.44 Cloudy, rain & wind belas bursting. 2711 55.79.59 37.45.23 Snow cieai evening 28tl 59.85.61 20.36.30 Hazy. March Is 60.87.01 26.4-2.30 Partially cloudy. 2d 61.88.6i 32.44.36 Cloudy afternoon. 3d 58.81.60 36.47.35 H 'oggy morning. Hamburghs and Tokay burst- 4(1 60.77.61 36.48.41 Slight fog. ing. 5ti 53.83.61 36.42.30 Cloudy morning. Muscat bursting. 6th 58.85.60 31.52.29 Ciear. 7tl 8tl 59.86.61 60.73.60 30 51 .34 36.44.38 Foggy ail day. Syringing continued morning and evening. 9u 59.72.61 37.50.38 10th 5-. 73. 60 57.45.40 " lltl 61. 80. 6", 36.52 32 Clear. 12th SO. 84. 63 32.55.40 u 13U 61.87.64 41.66.54 H Tied up Chasselas Fontame- 14th 59.87.65 43.58.4-2 Partially cloudy. bleau. 15U 81.88.65 41.66 45 " " Tied up Frontignans. 16th 62.90.70 47.76.58 Jlear. " Tokay. 17th 63.89.70 41 72.48 " " Ham burghs. 18U 61.91.67 Ji8.3l.20 Clear, cold wind. " Muscat. 19th 62.92.64 22.34 30 u u 20tl 59.87.59 28.37.17 it a 21s 60.89.62 21.35.26 a a 22d 53.81.60 25.36.30 Cloudy, with snow. 23d 61.83.64 31 .40.28 Storm till noon. 24th 59.91.62 28.35.26 Partially cloudy. 25 1 h 60.88.64 20.31.26 Cloudy, cold wind. 26th 61.87.62 27.33 26 U 14 27lh 59.87.64 23.37.24 Clear, cold wind. 28th 29th 60.85.67 59.89.63 22.35.19 21.38.35 'artially cloudy, C'ld wind. Tied side branches to wires SOlh 59.80.63 29.38.32 Jioudy, with snow. as they continued to elon- SIM April 1st 57.74.63 59.75.62 32.37.33 33.42.2P Cloudy, with fog. gate, stopping the weak- est four, and the strong- 2d 58.86.54 26.40.28 Clear. est at three leaves above 3d ^9.90.65 2-2.39.27 >< the bunch ; syringing a\*o 4th 60.83.63 30,51.40 Cloudy. attended to. 5th GO 91.68 38.53.40 Jlear. 6th 59.92.64 >9.77.60 'artially cloudy. 7th 61.93 69 56.76.59 Clear, strong wind. 8th 60.93.68 47.70.46 Clear. Hamburghs in bloorr. 9th 31.95.70 j2.80.43 u 10th 60 86 6f, H.60.38 Cloudy. . ChassHas " llth 62.93.7] 33.61.41 Cloudy, with sleet Frontignan " 12th 61 96.70 32.60.43 jlear. Muscats 13th 62.97.67 41.67.42 Clear. 14th 63.86.65 36.42.41 Hazy, heavy sno\\ Water over-head withheld 15th 61.78.64 32.43.33 and wind at night and fertilization assisted 16th 60.75.62 31.36.29 Storrn continued. by jerking the bunches in 17lh 58.74.61 30.35.2P Storrn coritim... j cl. the middle of the day or a 18th 59.85.67 35.59.38 Cloudy morning. little before noon. 19th 60 8?. 70 J6.58.42 Clear. THE EARLY GRAPERY OR FORCING HOUSE. 89 DATE. INSIDE. OUTSIDE. WEATHER. REMARKS. April 20th 62.86.70 39.57.40 Showers till noon. Water over-head renewed, 21sl 63.90.70 34.62.44 Clear. but carefully on account 22d 61.84.69 39.56.40 Cloudy. of danger from '-rust." 23d 62.87.70 42.66.45 Cloudy till noon. 24th 63.92.67 36.67.50 Clear. Commenced to thin Ilam- 25th 64.95.71 43.72.56 it burghs 26th 62.96.70 54.85.66 M Do. Chasselas. 27th 64.95.68 51.72.43 II " Froiitignans. 28th 62 81.64 40.52.36 Rain all day. " Tokay. 29th a3.82.69 40. 56. 5: u *. 30th ol 88.67 47.74.42 Cloudy. Muscat. May 1st 63.87.64 44.71.50 Clear. 2d 3d 65.92.67 63.81.66 52.79 55 46.62.44 Cloudy afternoon. Clear. Finished thinning and forked over inside borders. 4th 64.79.70 41.58 50 Cloudy & showers. 5tti 65.88.65 41.69.55, r'artially cloudy. 6th 64.91.66 43.55.3tf Clear. 7th 3 i. 92. 67 32.64.44 " Grapes begining to "stone." 8th 64.9:>.66 41.68.49 <( 9th 66.88.67 40.74 59 " 10th 65.89.6fe 54.81.59 'artially cloudy. llth 63.90.65 35.81 60 Hazy. 12th 06. 95. 67 58.82.54 Clear. 13th 65.92.61 58.77.61 toggy morning. 14th 53.88.67 57.79 59 '"og, with showers. 15th 61.90.65 53.84.58 Clear. 16th 17th 64.97.68 65.90.65 58.84.59 53.73.58 toggy morning ''og wjth showers 18th 64.87.70 58.81.59 Foggy. 19th 63.91.67 57-81.56 Clear. 20th i5.87.6L 56.78.58 " 21st o4.86.67 56.75.57 Cloudy 22d (53.91.65 6. 78.58 Clear. 23d 65.92.66 54.77.54 24th 62-33.65 53.74.54 u 25th 63-84.70 33-70.58 Cloudy. Water over- head discon- 26th 65-91.66 56.79.58 Clear. tinued. 27th 64-93.65 59-79.56 " Commenced to open lower 28th 66-95.70 59.84.66 " ventilators. 19th 64-93.65 54.73.56 ( c 30th 65-90.67 57-71.56 Cloudy. Grizzly Frontignan begin 31 si 66-91.71 56.72.58 Clear. to color. June 1st 64.90.68 47-72.48 " Chasselas begin last swell- 3d 66.90.61 48-82.54 1C ing. 3d 67.91.68 57-81.62 " Water entirely discontinued. 4th 66.92.71 59-82.6.5 Cl 5th fi8.61.69 61-89 66 ;c etii 67.92.68 61-82.63 Hamburghs begin to color. 7th 66.90.67 51-78. 66 Cloudy afternoon. 8th 68.92.66 62-85.64 Vfisiy till noon. 9th 65.90 64 60-72.57 Clear. 10th 68.91.70 61-84.64 " Muscats begin to color. llth 69.92.69 64-88.63 lazy. 12th 66.93.66 61.83.64 Thunder Storm. 13th 69.94.65 64.86.63 Showery. 14th 68.93.67 32.88.60 ?hundei showers. 15th 67.92.68 61.86.66 Showery. 16th 56.91.64 65.81.60 Jlear. 17th 64.92.63 60.72.58 Hazy. 18th 65.92.71 37.91.70 Clear. 90 TUB GKAPK. DATB INSIDE. OUTSIDE. WEATHER. RKMABKS. June 19th 69.94.69 6S.96.6b Clear. 20th 21sl 72.94.73 73.93.65 71.95.74 71.90.61 Cloudy afternoon. Cut ChasselasFontainebleau f ripe. 22d 71.92.64 68.72.6! u ti 23d 24th 65.87.63 66.90.6J> 60.73.61 57.81.60 Cloudy with rain. Clear. Cut White Frontignaa. Cut Grizzly Frontignan. 25th 65.91.62 58.77.58 c. 26th 27th 67.93.69 70.97.69 59.82.68 65.98.66 Partially cloudy. Thunder showers. Cut Hamburghs. 28th 68.91.73 68.85.72 Cut Cannon Hall Muscat. 29th 71.93.68 68.86.65 Clear. Cut Muscat of Alexandria. 30th 64.87.71 58.81.70 Cloudy with rain. After this time the house was kept open at all times, excepting during very strong winds, or severe storm, and an occasional soaking of water was given over the Leaves to destroy insects and keep up a healthy action. CHAPTER VIII. POT CULTURE. THE growing and fruiting of the grape-vine in pots or tubs is, in some parts of Europe, very much practised at the present day, and some of our best practical men in this country are in favor of its being more generally adopted. As this mode requires the most vigilant care, we must consider the annual amount of labor incurred in watering, potting, and other attention which is required, besides the expense of pots or tubs in which to grow the plants, and also the continual raising of fresh stock. On the other, or credit side, there is the difference with regard to accom- modation and conveniences ; pot culture takes up no space outside the house ; the expense of outer borders, covering, &c., is avoided ; but there is a yearly item in prepared compost which only amounts to about the sum that top- dressings would require a manure-water tank, or cistern, is absolutely necessary to supply the vines with nourish- ment, while growing freely ; but this is a thing that ought to be on every place that pretends to good gardening. As to house-room, what will produce a given quantity of fruit by the usual mode, will do the same in pot culture ; and all things considered, if sufficient care and attention can be relied on at all times, the latter mode has the prefer- ence ; still it ought to be borne in mind, that without all this, a poor sample of watery fruit will be the only reward, while with it, fine grapes, of good quality, can be realized ; and, considering the contingencies, it is only advisable to adopt this system as a first early crop. (91) 92 THE GRAPE. If we consider that each fruiting plant in this case will occupy one square yard, which is about an average, a house twelve feet wide will accommodate three rows, and admit room for a pathway ; and allowing forty feet as the length, there will be house-room for thirty-nine vines, upon each of which may be ripened six to seven pounds of grapes, which will make the whole crop from two hun- dred and thirty to two hundred and seventy pounds weight. If the vines were planted out three feet apart, in the usual way, the same house would contain thirteen plants to the roof, and the same number on the back wall ; but as the latter will only hold good for two or three years, on account of shade, or may have been used up by previous cropping, they can only be put down as a small set-off against the advantages on the other side. These thirteen vines, if forced equally early, cannot be expected to produce more than an average of fifteen pounds, which will give a total of one hundred and ninety- five pounds. If the above calculations be correct and we judge from practical experience in the matter the weight of produce is in favor of pot culture ; but as we would not mislead, it is necessary to repeat, that the same quality is not to be obtained without skill, and the most careful attention. There may appear to be an objection to pot culture, from the general understanding, that when the roots of a grape-vine are confined in so small a space, it will only bear one remunerative crop, and is afterwards useless; also, that a preparatory house will be needed for succession plants ; thus keeping occupied two compartments. As to the first, it is an error to suppose that a second, or even a third fruiting, may not^be obtained from the same plants, if the roots are allowed to pass through the bottoms of the pots into the base beneath, which ought to be made suita- POT CULTURE. 93 ble and fertile for the purpose. Under these circumstan- ces, and with the addition of liquid manure, there will be enough organized matter stored up for another season to maintain and develop all the next year's requirements. But allowing that only one fruiting could be realized, it is presumed that the crop would be ripe by the middle of May at the latest, and either all cut, or fit for removal to another and cooler apartment; and as in such case the plants would not be wanted again, the roots that may have gone into the base below might be cut off, without any detriment to the quality of the fruit. The young succes- sion plants previous to this will have been only in a state of propagation, and have occupied no more space or head- room than a tolerably deep hot-bed frame would furnish ; so that, after the flooring of the house is again forked over, and a quantity more manure added, this young stock may be brought in, and established in their permanent position, Thus will one house, with the exception of a small pit, or hot-bed, answer all purposes, and will be kept constantly at work. Vines for this purpose may be propagated from " eyes " in the usual way, by coiling, and by layers (see Propaga- tion). When eyes are used, the young plants, after being well rooted, ought to be encouraged by plenty of pot room, and a fine genial, growing temperature maintained, similar to that used for fruiting. The most suitable compost is the peeling, or upper sward of a good pasture, which has laid together until the grass is dead, but not further de- composed. Chop this into small pieces with the spade, add an equal quantity of well decomposed barn-yard ma- nure, and if there are any clean broken bones to be had, or, what is the next best substitute, lime-rubbish, mix a quantity, say one-eighth part, and as much or more of charcoal lumps. This furnishes an open, porous, yet rich 94 THE GRAPE. material, in which the roots will ramify very freely. At the first move from the striking-pot an ordinarily fertile soil is best, and the pot may be a quart in measure. As the young plant continues to progress, and has grown a foot or eighteen inches in height, it will be safe to remove into one of a gallon size, using the prepared compost, and make sure of efficient drainage by throwing over the bot- tom a couple of inches of crocks, or, still better, pieces of charcoal ; over this put a portion of the roughest of the compost, and fill in to near the top with the finer part, after having placed the plant in its proper place and position. Be careful not to break the ball of earth, during removal, when the pot is turned upside down, which may be pre- vented by giving the upper edge a smart rap on any solid substance near at hand, and keeping the fingers over the under surface, so as to receive the whole as it becomes liberated. After potting, give a good watering, and as the stems continue to elongate, tie them up carefully to stakes, until they have attained the height of seven feet, when the tops may be pinched off. Throughout the season the uppermost eyes will continue to push fresh growth, which ought to be stopped, each time, one leaf above the pre- vious operation. The object of this is to prevent the young vines from extending so much growth as would cause the lower leaves to be shaded, and consequently not able to elaborate the juices sufficiently to produce matured buds in the axils, the result of which is, a deficiency in the formation of the embryo fruit. If the plants are kept in a brisk and moist heat, and properly attended to by syring- ing and watering of the roots,.they will progress fast, and by the middle of July will be ready to be placed in the fruiting-pots, which ought to be from three to four gallons, according to the luxuriance of the vine, or robustness of the variety. The same process as to potting must be POT CULTUKE. 95 gone through at this as at the last remove, and the same material used, and particular care should be taken that no worms, or the larvae of beetles be in the compost. It is a good plan to use a little caustic powdered lime through the mass, a short time previous to using, which is sure to have the desired effect, and is likewise beneficial to the plant. Throughout the whole summer the same treatment, with regard to heat, moisture, &c., that is suitable for planted- out vines will be right for those in pots ; and if the best management has been observed, at the end of the growing season, the canes will be well matured, correspondingly thick, and in a fit state for fruiting the next year. In the fall they may be cut back, the strongest to three feet, and the weaker ones to two feet six inches above the pot, and if there be a portion that are not strong enough to bear fruit, it is best to head them back to the lowest good bud at the same time. These latter, in the spring following, may be removed out of the pots, and the soil shaken from the roots, which ought to be somewhat shortened in, and the plant again replaced, using fresh compost of the same kind, with the exception of a small quantity of good, fresh earth, but only sufficient of this to merely cover the roots, and keep the richer material from coming in close contact until the young fibres are emitted. Young, healthy roots will push into and luxuriate in a base that would destroy those which are mutilated ; hence the caution. When the coiling method is adopted (see Propagation, page 133), the fruiting-sized pot may be used at once, and the after treatment will be the same as for the others. This is the best method for obtaining strong vines for pot culture in the least possible time, and when there is a surplus supply of canes from other houses at pruning time, they may be used to advantage for this purpose. A pot-vine, if properly managed, is certainly a pleasing THE Git APE. and very pretty object, but much depends upon the nicety of training. To gain this advantage, the plant ought not to be longer than is actually necessary, and the fruiting branches should be as near the surface of the pot as is consistent with securing good plump buds to start from, which can be mostly gained with a cane of two feet six inches to three feet long. After it is seen which shoots will produce the best bunches, choose six or seven which are nearly equidistant from each other, between the top and bottom, and as they elongate tie them out horizontally, diverging on al> sides from the stem, which may be very neat- ly done by fixing a wire trellis, as seen in fig. 15, inside the pot. This is also ser- viceable to suspend the shoulders of the bunches to, and if not made of too heavy material, is scarcely visible, being decidedly preferable to a display of wooden supports. It should, however, be put over the plant before much growth has progressed, or there is danger of breaking the young shoots. Fig. is. When the plants are to be fruited more than one season, the double spur method, page lit, is best, as it gives a greater choice of good buds, a matter of some conse- quence when the wood is not over strong, and under these circumstances the bearing shoots may be cut clean away so soon as the fruit is cut, which admits the light and sun to the remaining leaves on the maiden spurs, thereby enabling them to have full scope, and uninterrupted free- dom during the after part of the summer. Immediately after the leaves are fallen is the best time to prune, and at the same time, the roots that have gone into the soil below may be cut away, the pots cleaned, and the vines washed over with the mixture, page 65. Let all now go POT CULTURE. 97 quietly to rest for a time by keeping a low temperature with plenty of air night and day, and only giving enough water to prevent the roots and branches from shrivelling. Two or three weeks before commencing afresh, the plants ought to be carefully turned out of the pots without dis- turbing the balls, the roots examined, and any decayed portions cut clean off; at the same time take away a portion of the outer soil, and after putting a good quantity of drainage into each clean pot, again place the plant as before, filling in with some of the before-mentioned com- post. Before they are again placed in their permanent situation, let the under base be forked over, and some more decomposed barn-yard manure added. When growth is progressing freely, at all times, from the showing of the fruit until it is ripe, clear liquid manure ought to be applied; on this, in a great measure, depends success, or the best of quality. Each third or fourth supply of water should be, either diluted drainage from the dung- hill, or guano dissolved, in the quantity of one ounce to the gallon, and if these two are alternated it is still better. The remainder of the treatment required is the same as for other culture, and if the above directions are observed, there is no fear of failure. CHAPTER IX. THE RETARDING^ HOUSE. THE object of the Retarding House is the reverse of the Early Grapery. In the latter we wish to forward as much as possible the ripening of the fruit, while in the former, the intention is to retard it so far as can be done. It is therefore evident that the two features require very different management ; in fact, in one, the process really and truly speaking, if judiciously applied, gives to the vine the requirement of its own or original constitution, by the assistance of artificial heat at the time when the plant is best able to be benefited by it, while the other has the same applied, only to keep out the frost at mid- winter, and to create a dry atmosphere when the fruit is hanging ripe, for the purpose of preserving it. From what has been previously explained, it will be readily seen that some difficulty must occur, when we are trying to carry out in cultivation anything that is opposed to nature, or attempting to thwart her established vitality ; such becomes true here, for, our intention is to stay as much as possible that free and brisk action which alone will ensure the best results, notwithstanding which, as we have an object in view, and the demands of luxury must be supplied, our skill is brought into requisition, and to a certain extent the difficulty is overcome. The general routine, in this case, will be the endeavor to keep back the precocity of the fruit by all consistent means one of which is to avoid the very earliest varieties ; an- THE RETARDING HOUSE. 99 other, securing the right aspect of the house, which is fully explained, page 37. It is also essentially requisite to give free ventilation, both day and night, excepting in severe weather, during the whole of the spring months, by which a cool temperature may be maintained, and the early flow of the sap prevented. When it is seen that the buds can be no longer kept from bursting, the house may be closed, but as it is not advisable to raise so high a temperature in this, as in the other successions, there ought not to be so much water applied, because, if it be too liberally supplied in this counteraction of the natural energy, there would be too much moisture absorbed from the atmosphere by the leaves, and from the soil by the roots ; the consequence of which would be too great a preponderance of fluid matter, without an equivalent amount of carbonized and solid material, and hence, a plethoric state of the whole structure a liability to disease want of fertility in the blossoms a bad set of inferior berries and consequently, poor quality of badly flavored fruit. Water may, how- ever, be administered with discretion. According as the growth progresses, as it is more or less active, or the weather is wet and cold, or dry and hot, so let the water be given or withheld. When the leaves are fully develop- ed, the shoots stopped, and the blossoms expanded, syring- ing may be entirely discontinued, excepting occasionally on bright mornings, for, unless due caution be exercised during the remainder of the growing season, there is danger of mildew. This troublesome guest is more likely to attack the Retarding House than any other, and conse- quently, greater vigilance is necessary. It is most gener- ally to be apprehended while the fruit is swelling, and before the carbonaceous matter has become so far concen- trated as to be relieved from the greater overplus of acidity; and as the secretions of the plants in this house 100 THE GRAPE. are in such a state, during the months of July and August, when the sporules of the fungus are most active, it is very necessary to keep careful watch, and avoid as much as possible all sudden transitions of temperature; do not allow the house to be closed until it becomes hot, but admit air freely whenever required; be wary of bottom drafts, keep the lower ventilators closed in damp weather, and if such continues for any length of time with a humid atmosphere, a little artificial heat may be applied for the time being, with the upper ventilators opened, which will keep down the thermometer, dry the air, and stay the progress of the mildew if it be present, or prevent its germination if not so. Sulphur aught to be liberally strewed over the floor for the same purpose, and if a small quantity be thrown on the flue, avoiding the hottest end, or on any part of the hot water pipes, as the case may be, there need not be any fear of its ravages extending. An- other mischief to be expected at times to this crop is, shrivel and shanking, the best means of avoiding which is to continue the same regularity of management that has been observed through the whole progress, and until the fruit is colored ; after this period there is no danger, and the house may afterwards be left open constantly, or par- tially, or entirely closed, as the weather may be wet or frosty. A portion of the grapes in this house will have to remain on the vines during the winter, and must be kept quite dry and free from frost, which makes it necessary to use a trifle of fire-heat at times, just enough, but not more than, to answer the purpose ; and if the berries were not well thinned at the proper time, they ought to be further reduced in number now, so that they may hang loosely, thereby preventing close contact, and admitting a free circulation around each. As the fruit often remains beyond the usual time of THE RETARDING HOUSE. 101 pruning, it is well not to make a general rule of cutting all at once, or leaving the vines until the crop is cleared, but do it so soon as the leaves are turned yellow, or fallen ; and the whole of the fruit is gathered on each separate plant, which will enable the operator to accomplish a good part of this work sooner, and give a portion gf; the/ stock, a better chance of the same action that w,e plviya find o'f,> service, by a periodical and judicious 'pruning ^p, plj^pther , instances. This is more strictly applicable, WneW it&e spur method is adopted, but is nevertheless to be recom- mended for the long rod, as the latter offers greater facili- ties than the former, because there is a less disposition to break or burst the buds, with a young and strong cane in early spring, than with spurs ; and as the whole of the previous bearing shoot is taken away, there is only one cut exposed to the danger of bleeding ; a subject of some importance, if the fruit has been kept on the vine until late. In such case, immediately on removing the branch, the severed surface should be covered over with a coating of grafting wax, white lead, or, what is still better, finely powdered oyster-shells and cheese, worked together into a thick cement, -and a portion rubbed well into the exposed pores. This, we repeat, ought to be done immediately after pruning, and all danger of bleeding will be avoided. It is of little use to attempt to stop the sap after it has commenced to flow, for there is a propelling power in the action of a plant at this time that is truly wonderful ; and although there is not so much injury from the loss of a portion of the fluid as some persons would have us believe, still it is better to prevent the waste, for it certainly doelS check, to some extent, the full burst of nature, as we have often satisfactorily proved. It may be thought, from the preceding caution, and seeming uncertainty, that the Retarding House ought to be 102 THE GRAPE. abandoned ; so it ought, were it not for the desirableness of having ripe grapes at mid-winter, and before the earliest house can be made to produce them ; and it certainly is, these advantages considered, worth a little trouble and 'extra care. - , In taking a review of the various succession crops here- tofore treated \?rt, we may now calculate how long it is .pG^sibl.c 9 have, ripe grapes fresh from the vine. The Firs i* Early caa be had from the beginning of May, and will continue to the middle of June, when the Second Early will be ready, and give a supply until the middle of August. The Cold Grapery now comes in, and will furnish a general quantity till the middle of November ; after this, the Retarding House gives its quota on to the last of Feb- ruary, which collectively leaves only two months deficient, or without a supply ; and as there are some kinds, as the Muscats, Frontignans, and Chasselas, that may be pre- served by care, and if it is absolutely required, even in this remaining short period, a far better sample may be furnished than is to be had from the finest quality of im- ported raisins; so that, where expense is no object, and the luxury is demanded, it may be enjoyed without inter- mission. If the air of the grapery be kept dry enough, some grapes will remain good on the vine until they become raisins ; but it is not convenient at all times to leave them so, and in such case, those that are to be preserved may be cut when they can no longer be left When they are removed, the bunches ought to be carefully examined, find all injured or decayed berries cut out, and suspended, the reverse way to that in which they were grown, by hooked wires fixed to a frame-work, so that each bunch and berry may hang free from contact, and they will re- quire to be kept in a very dry room, partially excluded THE RETARDING- HOUSE. 103 from the light, and where there is enough fire at suitable times to keep the temperature from 40 to 50. A well- planned fruit-room is all that is needed, and where there is not such a convenience, the above hints may assist in directing attention to some other apartment about the premises that will answer the purpose, and enable the lover of this ambrosial fruit to enjoy to the fullest extent this munificent gift of our benevolent Creator. CHAPTER X. LIST OF VARIETIES. To begin to individualize, or render a plain exposition to the uninitiated in grape nomenclature, is a very difficult affair. As it now stands before the public, it is nothing more than a heterogeneous jumble of confusion, and the search after a thoroughly practical understanding of the matter requires more time, patience, and expense, than even the enthusiast would be willing to encounter in the investigation, if he only knew beforehand the maze he had to travel through. To such an extent have the various synonymes become multiplied, that the examination of them shows clearly the ridiculousness of the number, and the only way of extricating the subject from the tiresome burden of incongruity, is by making use only of a few that we know are most familiar in the society in which we live, and only introducing such kinds as are distinct, or worthy of cultivation, headed by the most popular name by which it is known in our midst. It would be no difficult matter to introduce and describe some hundred so-called varieties, but when they were applied for, and obtained, which they might be from the various nurseries in our own country and Europe, the half of them would prove to be merely duplicates, nay, we will go further, and assert that not more than a fourth, from some places, if thus sought after, will be really distinct ; besides, were the expected variety to be forthcoming under such circumstances a great por- tion are only novelties and would lead to chagrin and (104) LIST OF VARIETIES. 105 vexation when they were proved. We take in this case a utilitarian view of the subject, and would leave the further action open to those of unlimited means and un- controlled enthusiasm to go along with their own fancy. They cannot be better employed, and the results of their labors will be of the same national benefit as is that of the only theoretical and experimental farmer; good collec- tively, at the expense of the individual, and praiseworthy, without profit, to the searcher after progressive improve- ment. It is to the exertions of such laudable persons that we are indebted for much of our knowledge and gain, and such deserve more often than they receive the gratitude of their fellow men and a monument for their patriotism. Having said thus much, it becomes our duty to keep our position, and give in the first place a general descriptive list of the best sorts in cultivation, and select out of the same those varieties that are adapted to the various pur- poses treated on. BLACK OR PURPLE. BLACK HAMBURGH, (syn. Hampton Court Vine Frankendale.) Bunches large, compact and well shoul- dered. Berries large, round, black, flavor full and sweet. The best black grape grown for table use. VICTORIA HAMBURGH. Similar to the above when true ; the berries somewhat larger and very black, and the bunches more tapering. WILMOTT'S HAMBURGH. Bunches very compact, ber- ries large, very black, round, appearing (under good culture) as if hammered on the surface ; a fine grape, but nc,t quite equal to the first in flavor. WILMOTT'S No. 16. A seedling from Black Hamburgh, and so like it as scarcely to be distinguished. MILLER'S BURGUNDY, (syn. Miller Grape.) Bunches 5* 106 THE GRAPE. short and close, berries roundish oval, black, rather small, covered with a blue bloom, flavor not good until fully ripe. An early variety of second rate quality for the grapery, but suitable for out-door culture. The leaves of this sort are pubescent, hence its name from the white downy appearance. BLACK CLUSTER, (syn. Black July) Bunches small and clustered ; berries jet black, small, flavor sprightly but wanting in fullness, one of the very earliest kinds, but not worth room in the grapery. The leaves of this are free of the downiness mentioned in the last. WEST'S ST. PETERS, (syn. Black Lombardy Poonah Raisin des Carmes.) Bunches medium size, long, taper- ing, well shouldered ; berries medium size, oval, very black, covered with a blue bloom, very sweet and sprightly; a fine late sort. MITCHELL'S ST. PETERS. Similar to the above, but a handsomer bunch and berry. ZINFINDAL. Bunches long, peculiar in form, being some- times composed of two shoulders, berries roundish oval, black, sweet, but tame, a good hardy sort. BLACK FRONTIGNAN. (syn. Black Constantia Black Frontignac Muscat noir de Frontignac.) Bunches below medium size, tapering, small shouldered ; berries not large, round, black, musky and sweet, a good grape, but bad to color, and in some houses subject to shank. BLACK PRIXCE. (syn. Cambridge Botanic Garden Alicant.) Bunches long, tapering and well shouldered ; berries a little above medium size, oval, black, very sweet and sprightly, a first-rate sort. SCHARGE'S HENLTNG. Bunches long, tapering, and clustered ; berries small, oval, very black, sweet and brisk ; pretty in form, and a seedling from the Burgundy. BLACK TRIPOLI (of Speechley). Bunches in form like LIST OF VARIETIES. 107 Hamburgh, but rather loose ; berries large, black, flavor good ; useful as a late grape. ESPERIONE. (syn. Cumberland Lodge Blue Windsor.) Bunches large shouldered ; berries medium size, black with fine bloom ; pretty, but second rate. PRINCE ALBERT, (syn. Royal Albert.) Bunches large, heavy shouldered, and tapering; berries medium size, round, black ; flesh solid, sweet and sprightly. This is a very strong grower, and shy bearer, except in poor soil, otherwise it is a first-rate late sort. We are inclined to think that the Black Barbarossawill prove the same as this. BLACK MOROCCO, (syn. Black Muscadel.) Bunches large and heavy shouldered ; berries large, ovoid, brownish black when fully ripe, flesh solid and only second quality ; a very late grape, and with fire-heat tolerably good. PURPLE FRONTIGNAN. (syn. Purple Const antia Blue Frontignan Voilet Frontignan) Bunches long and tapering with small shoulders ; berries medium size, blue black, flavor slightly musky, and agreeable. This grape and the true Black Frontignan are so generally mixed up in different collections, as to frequently lead to disputes in their individual identity ; our own observation inclines to distinctness of the two sorts, the black scarcely ever colors further than a brownish jet ; while the purple assumes a true bluish-black, even with ordinary culture. The former has also a stronger musky flavor, and will hang until they become raisins. OLDAKER'S ST. PETERS, (syn. Black St. Peters Black Palestine) Bunches somewhat like Hamburgh, but loose, berries rather large, round, black ; flavor sweet ; a good late grape but not a very free bearer. WHITE AND AMBER COLORED. CHASSELAS DE FONTAINEBLEAU. (syn. Chasselas pre- coce White Chasselas Royal Chasselas Chasselas de 108 THE GRAPE. Bur Sur Aube) Bunches tapering, well-shouldered, me- dium size ; berries round, medium size, amber-white ; flavor sweet and full. One of the most reliable and early of white grapes, and the very best quality. MALVASIA. (syn. Grove-end Sweet Water Early V/hite Malvoise) Bunches rather below medium size, small shoulders, tapering ; berries greenish-amber, below medium size, roundish oval, transparent, very sweet ; a good early kind. GOLDEN CHASSELAS. Bunches long and tapering ; ber- ries medium size, round, yellowish-amber color ; sweet and sprightly. With fire heat this is a good grape, but in the Cold Grapery it is often a bad setter, and is at all times somewhat uncertain. ROYAL MUSCADINE. This grape is often considered to be the same as Chasselas Fontainebleau, although quite dis- tinct. The bunch of this variety is much larger, and the color more inclining to yellow. It is seldom seen true ; the last named being often substituted for it. CHASSELAS MUSQJJE. (syn. Muscat Blanc Hatif- Joslyns St. Albans.) Bunches medium size, tapering ; berries round, flattened on the end ; amber-white, musky, rich, and very sweet; a free bearer, and one of the finest grapes in cultivation ; it is, however, very liable to crack, if not well ventilated, and more than usually subject to shrivel. WHITE GASCOINE. Bunches rather large, well-should- ered, tapering ; berries oval ; white, flavor good. Subject to crack sometimes in a damp house. A good sort. VERDELHO. (syn. Madeira Wine Grape.) Bunches ra- ther small, loose ; berries medium size, oval, yellowish- green, sweet, and pleasant ; a good variety and vigorous grower, but not a very free bearer. WHITE TOKAY, (syn. True Tokay Tokai Blanc.) LIST OF VARIETIES. 109 Bunches long and compact ; berries roundish-oval, medium size, white, sweet, and pleasant ; a fine sort, but subject to shrivel when growing in a wet border. WHITE FRONTIGNAN. (syn. White Constantia White, Frontignac Muscat Blanc.) Bunches below medium size, long, small shouldered ; berries medium size, round, light amber, musky and sweet ; a fine early sort. DECON'S SUPERB. ( syn. Sahibce. ) Bunches rather large and handsome ; berries large, oval, amber color, ap- pearing as if frosted over the surface. This is a splendid looking grape, but of second quality ; and in a cold house often a bad setter. WHITE NICE. ( syn. Xeres. ) Bunches very large, and many shouldered; berries medium size, round, amber- white, sweet, and skerry tasted. A fine sort, and occa- sionally most extraordinarily large. It has been grown to nineteen pounds weight, but such bunches are only ex- ceptions. Many Spaniards to whom we have shown this grape, recognize it as the one from which sherry wine is made. SYRIAN. Bunches very large, and heavy shouldered ; berries large, slightly oval, white and sweet. If we have at the present time any grape in cultivation which is the the one brought by spies out of the land of Canaan, this is the most likely sort. It is always large, and sometimes very heavy ; a fine late kind. WHITE LISBON, (syn. White Hamburgh White Portu- gal.) Bunches sometimes large shouldered, large and ra- ther loose, but when well grown very handsome ; berries oval, white, large, solid ; flavor sweet, but only second rate. This is the grape that is imported from Europe in jars. It is a fine sort for the Retarding House, as it keeps well and ripens late. PITMASTON WHITE CLUSTER. Bunches medium size, 110 THE GRAPE. compact ; berries round, white, medium size, sweet, and good flavored. A fine early sort of the Chasselas class. SCOTCH WHITE CLUSTER. Very like the above. G-ROMIER DU CANTAL. ( syn. Decandolle?) Bunches large, broad, heavy shouldered ; berries large, round, am- ber colored, blotched with purplish brown, sweet, and brisk flavored ; very thin skinned ; a good sort for imme- diate use, but soon spoils. DE LA PALESTINE. Bunches much branched, and very long, often two feet ; shoulders very numerous and long ; berries below medium size, oval, amber colored, very sweet. A good late fancy kind, and distinct in appear- ance. DUTCH SWEET WATER, (syn. Pearl Drop Pareyl Druyf.) Bunches medium size, compact, and well-should- ered ; in form like Hamburgh ; berries large, round, trans- parent, white, very sweet, skin thin. A fine early sort, seldom seen true, the old White Sweet Water being often substituted. MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA, (syn. White Muscat Ma- laga.) Bunches handsome, well formed, and large ; ber- ries large, oval, amber colored, musky, and sweet. Un- questionably one of the finest grapes in cultivation, but requires artificial heat, particularly while in bloom. CANNON HALL MUSCAT. Very like the above, but of more robust growth, and larger berries ; the bunches also are generally more tapering, and the stamens six, occasion- ally seven, in number. MUSCAT OF LUNEL. Like the Muscat of Alexandria, with smaller berries. CHARLESWORTH TOKAY. Bunches large, long, and well shouldered; berries large, roundish oval, amber- white, rich, vinous, and musky. This is a good variety, and sometimes mistaken for Muscat of Alexandria, al- LIST OF VARIETIES. Ill though quite distinct. The foliage of this is more deeply cut, and not reflexed on the edges. WHITE CORINTH. Bunches tapering ; berries close set, small, very pretty, and prolific, a fancy kind. RED AND TAWNY COLORED. BED TRAMINER. Bunches below medium size, should- ered and tapering; berries rather small, round, of a rus- sety-red color ; a good sort. This is one of the best wine grapes of the Rhine, and suitable in some situations for out- door culture in our own climate. RED CHASSELAS. (syn. Red Muscadine Muscadine Rouge.) Bunches medium size, shouldered ; berries me- dium size, round, sweet, and good. This variety is re- markable for having the berries red from the first, and afterwards changing to a lighter shade when ripe. The wood also is of a reddish color. ROSE CHASSELAS. (syn. Violet Chasselas.) Bunches below medium size, shouldered ; berries below medium, round, rose color, sweet. A good sort. AUSTRIAN MUSCAT. Bunches medium size, very com- pact ; berries closely set, roundish-oval, tawny-red ; skin thin. This grape is not unlike the Grizzly Frontignan either in flavor or appearance, but is not so good ; and is subject to crack, but hangs long after being ripe. GRIZZLY FRONTIGNAN. (syn. Red Constantia Grizzly Frontignac Muscat Gris.) Bunches tapering with small shoulders, below medium size. Berries, medium size, 4-ound, grizzly red, musky, rich and sweet. A fine early grnpe, and hangs well after being ripe. REINE DE NICE. (syn. Queen of Lombard*/. ) Bunches very large, tapering, well-shouldered and handsome. Ber- ries large, oval, irregular on the surface, rose color ; flesh hard and sweet. A fine late grape, but sometimes a shy 112 THE GRAPE. bearer if spurred in too close. It may be preserved as long as the imported "White Lisbon. FLAME-COLORED TOKAY, (syn. Red Lombardy.) Bunches very large, well-shouldered and handsome ; berries large, close-set, roundish, pale red, sweet and sprightly. A fine late grape. As most persons will only require to grow the finest quality, and many have but a limited space, the above list is reduced to the best twenty, ten, and five (including so far as can be a variety of color), as follows : COLD GRAPERY, BEST TWENTY. Black Hamburgh, White Gascoine, Willmott's Hamburgh, White Frontignan, West's St. Peters, White Nice, Black Prince, Syrian, Black Frontignan, PitmastonWhite Cluster, Zinfindal, De la Palestine, Bed Traminer, Red Muscadine, Rose Chasselas, Grizzly Frontignan, Chasselas Fontainebleau, Reine de Nice, Chasselas Musque, Royal Muscadine. BEST TEM. Black Hamburgh, Chasselas Fontainebleau, West's St. Peters, Syrian, Black Prince, Zinfindal, White Frontignan, Reine de Nice, Grizzly Frontignan, Chasselas Musque. BEST FIVE. Black Hamburgh, White Frontignan, West's St. Peters, Chasselas Fontainebleau. Black Prince, FORCING HOUSE. BEST TEN. Cannon Hall Muscat, Chasselas Fontainebleau LIST OF VARIETIES. 113 Muscat of Alexandria, Grizzly Frontignau, Black Hamburgh, White Frontignan, Willmot's Hamburgh, Chasselas Musque, Dutch Sweetwater, Black Prince. BEST FIVE. Muscat of Alexandria, Grizzly Frontignan, Black Hamburgh, Black Prince. Chasselas Fontainebleau, RETARDING HOUSE. BEST TEN. Black Hamburgh, White Lisbon, Black Prince, Muscat of Alexandria, West's St. Peters, Willmot's Hamburgh, Prince Albert, Syrian, Reine de Nice, Flame-colored Tokay. BEST FIVE. Black Hamburgh, Muscat of Alexandria, West's St. Peters, White Lisbon. Reine de Nice, POT CULTURE. BEST FIVE. Black Hamburgh, White Frontignan, Chasselas Fontainebleau, Black Prince. Grizzly Frontignan, Where profit and quality combined are the objects in view, Black Hamburgh and Chasselas Fontainebleau in the Cold Grapery, and Muscat of Alexandria added in the Forcing House, will take precedence; and we may here remark, that whatever care may be taken in impreg- nating the Muscats, where artificial heat is not used, the set will be uncertain, owing to a deficiency of heat and clear weather, in some seasons, at blooming time. The THE GRAPE. whole class requires more heat and a drier atmosphere than is necessary for any other sort ; they nourish best in countries which are often too arid and hot for the suc- cessful cultivation of grapes generally. In southern Spain, and the warm and dry climates of Lima, and similar locali- ties on the western coast of South America, they luxuriate without much care or attention, and produce most abun- dant crops of the finest fruit. Under cultivation, a dry atmosphere during the period of rest, and likewise at the time of the blossoms setting for fruit, is almost indispen- sably requisite ; lacking this in the first place, the embryo flowers do not receive sufficient concentration, and a defi- ciency of the same in the latter instance when they ex- pand, they have not power enough to impregnate healthily. By artificially fertilizing with other varieties, or even by their own pollen, this enfeebled condition is somewhat as- sisted. Where the musky -flavored grapes are preferred, and fire heat is not to be applied, the want may be made up by planting an extra quantity of Frontignans and Chasselas Musque, which is of the same class, and one of the finest quality quite equal in this respect to the Muscats. All of these have the good property of hanging long after being ripe, and are also early varieties. The Chasselas Musque is faulty from its liability to crack when swelling for ripening, but a free ventilation at the time, and a drier atmosphere, will considerably counteract this evil, and when once ripe, it will continue good for a long time. To give a long list of native grapes would be only penning a useless array of words, considering there are so few that are of sterling merit. Of late years several enterprising cultivators have done something to improve the present quality by raising seedlings, among whom are Mr. Longworth, of Cincinnatti, Dr. Underbill, of Croton Point, and others ; but so far there is not much progress LIST OF VARIETIES. 115 to be reported. Two of the best we have at present are Isabella and Catawba, both of which are only natural seedlings ; the former from the species Labrusca, and the latter, which is the famous Wine Grape of the West, most likely an accidental cross between Labrusca and Vulpina. What a wide field is there here for experiment. If we have advanced no further than what nature has done for us, surely we are only on the first step towards that perfection which the energy of the country can ac- complish. The necessity of a thing has only to be seen, when ingenuity is set to work to bring about the desired- ultimatum; and now we see this necessity, there is no doubt but ere long we shall have as great a variety with good quality for all purposes in the indigenous kinds, as are at present found in the foreign. This is no over- stretched notion, and we are confident that it both can and will be eventually accomplished. The American Pomolo- gical Society at their last meeting came to the conclusion that the only sorts worthy of being considered best were Isabella, Catawba, and Diana, with a recommendation for further trial of the Concord. That meeting contained the best knowledge throughout the country, and our own opinion is in strict accordance with their decision ; conse- quently it may be better to let this short notice serve for the present, with the hope that the desirable addenda will be forthcoming hereafter; and for this reason there is a chapter in its proper place on the raising of new kinds. As the Scuppernong class is found to flourish the best in the Southern States, the few varieties contained in it may be added for that region ; but these, like all the rest, are capable of great improvement ; and it is very likely that if the best varieties of California and southern Texas be crossed upon them, a fine race would be obtained. CHAPTER XI. PRUNING AND TRAINING THERE are various methods of pruning and training the grape-vine, and each method has had its supporters. Good crops also have been produced by many of them, under skilful hands, and no doubt will continue to be. The fact is, the grape-vine is so productive, and fruits so freely, even with very ordinary treatment, that bad indeed must be the case when it ceases to jield its luscious sweets. Yet while so submissive under ill usage, and grateful, as it were, for a common existence, like other creatures of na- ture's higher organization, its expansive powers will become contracted, and the tractable disposition rendered stubborn, by long continued abuse ; in which case, the quality of the fruit is deteriorated, the bunches are small, or the flavor inferior ; and as pruning has something to do with this, particularly the small bunches, it may be well to explain the different modes that are practised, and state the va- rious results obtained by them. Although it is best to allow the grape-vine, like all other fruits, to judiciously and periodically extend the superfi- cial surface of the leaves and branches, our arrangements and conveniences do not always admit of this desirable consummation being carried out. Such being the case, it behooves us, under the circumstances, not to distort nature any more than we can avoid. In accordance with these views, first, is mentioned the plan- we generally adopt. Supposing that we have got a cane of the first summer's growth, cut it back, in length according to thickness ; if very strong say six feet, or only middling so, to five, (116) PRUNING AND TRAINING. 117 or even four feet ; next commence at the top, leave three eyes, the upper one for the future leader, and the two others for the top pair of branches ; cut out the next two, leave the two beneath, and continue on so to within eighteen inches of the soil, below which remove all to the bottom, as there is no use in having any fruit lower down. During the next summer these eyes will, if well attended to, form side spurs, which in their turn will have to be cut back to two, three, or even four buds, as they may be plump, or well developed. Now, when these buds begin to grow, we ought to have a shoot from each of them, and as only one bunch ought to be allowed to remain on each base, the other shoots will appear so far superfluous. Re- tain the one at the base, or nearest to the main cane, and likewise that one above it which shows the best bunch ; rub off the others, and pinch out the fruit from the lower, and also all, excepting the best formed bunch on the upper one. As they progress in growth, take out the top of that which has fruit on, three or four leaves above the bunch, and let the other extend until it has unfolded seven or eight leaves ; then stop it. Bring the bearing branches down, nearly horizontal, to the upright cane, and tie them to the side-wires ; train the others at an oblique angle, and tie them likewise. They will now appear as seen in Fig. 16. a is the base shoot, and b the fruiting one. As both continue to push forth fresh growth from Fig. ie. time to time through the summer, nip out to one leaf above where last stopped- After the fruit is cut, and the wood be- comes ripe, say two or three weeks before the leaves fall, go over and cut (b) clean away to the base of (a), which leaves the spurs for fruiting the next year as near to the main cane as if the close cut method 118 THE GRAPE. had been adopted, with the advantage of having spurs which have not been burdened with fruit, and also the probability of future finer bunches, for the most prominent and well-formed buds always bring the best shaped and largest clusters, and this action gives a better chance of obtaining such. There is no fear of not being able to get shoots from the base, if properly managed; for, in most cases, adventitious buds, and generally more than will be wanted, are developed, and have to be rubbed oft'. When these side spurs have accumulated, and extend along the whole length to the top of the house, the leader may be cut off above the top pair, and if proper care has been taken in breaking the buds, as previously advised, there will be a uniform strength over the whole vine. If the canes have been previously disbudded, there is no danger of over-crowding, as the following year the bearing branch is brought down to the same position as that of last season, and the other one trained more upright into the vacant space. All trees have a natural tendency to push the strongest growth to the top and extreme ends, particularly while young and vigorous ; and if the side branches are very closely cut away periodically, the sap is directed more strongly upwards, the lateral force is reduced in a cor- responding ratio, and the side "branches are rendered weaker. This is often seen in the grape-vine, and is as often a cause of complaint. Now, the above method very much counteracts this evil, as a greater quantity of leaves are encouraged from each individual base, and, of course, a greater draw of fluid is produced into the side branches, which, when once established, remains permanent ; and, so long as the same causes are in existence, the flow is equalized, the side spurs correspondingly stronger, the buds become plumper, and the bunches larger. To still PRUNING AND TRAINING. 119 further encourage this lateral action, it is not advisable to take out the overplus buds in the fall, at the same time that the cane is disbudded, for the simple reason that the plants are collecting food, and filling up the seemingly- latent parts through the winter, excepting when the whole structure is frozen, and the channels of absorption thereby stopped ; consequently, all the buds receive a due share. Although a portion of this stored up nutriment is wasted, by allowing the useless buds to expand, we gain the ad- vantage of encouraging a greater flow into the side branches until the time when the unfolding leaves are enabled to keep up the action. Another method of spur-pruning, and the one most gen- erally practised, is to allow the cane to extend itself up- wards each season, as above described, until it reaches the top, and retain the side spurs closer and alternately arranged along the cane ; each year resting, or not allow- ing to bear, every alternate spur, and when pruning, the cutting of all the spurs close down to one eye ; or leaving those for fruiting the following season somewhat longer, and in the next fall cutting the same spur close into the cane; the object being to keep the side branches "at home." Fig. 17 shows the cane when pruned. Very good crops are often produced in this way, with Fig. IT. otherwise good treatment ; but in the first instance the bunches are generally small, and although in the latter this is for a few years obviated, still there is the disadvantage of having to cut back to the main stem, and of trusting entirely to the buds which may thus be prompted to push forth. This close cutting weakens down the lateral force of the plant's energy, in a short time the spurs become weak, and the whole cane has eventually to be cut down ; by which, to say the least of it, one year's crop is lost. We 120 THE GKAPB. are aware, tliat in thus speaking of this walking-stick mode of pruning, we are going in the face of many good grape-growers ; but the fact of a thing being generally " fashionable," is no criterion of its excellence. Nature's action in all these matters ought to be our guide, and the more we adapt ourselves to her laws, the more permanent will be our success. Sometimes the long-rod method is practised. In this case, the first summer the cane is trained up as in the former modes, only left somewhat longer when pruned, and this suffered to bear a full crop the next season ; after which it is cut clean out to one eye from the bottom ; an- other cane having been taken up during the same time from its base, to afterwards take the place of the one last fruited, and so on. By this plan, which is seen in Fig. 18, Fig. is. fine fruit may be obtained, as the bunches ema- nate from strong buds, which, if they have been previously well ripened, throw off hand- some a'nd large clusters ; but there is the evil of having to cut off, at one fell swoop, the half of the plant, leaving no perennial structural base, excepting the very lowest stump. This whole- sale and oft-repeated cutting keeps the plant in a continual state of excitement, which is sure to eventually show itself in premature weak- ness. It is sometimes useful to resort to this plan, where the upright training surface is contracted, as in narrow or short raftered pits ; but here it may be modified by ex- tending and training the leading shoots horizontally a little farther each season, and taking upright canes from these main branches, at the distance of two feet apart ; in which case, each alternate upright may be cut out to an eye, after bearing, and another shoot be taken up the next season, to fruit in its turn, as shown in Fig 19. As the PRUNING AND TRAINING. 121 horizontal shoots elongate, the Fig. 19. vines which are right and left of them may be taken out. We may also make an ex- ception in favor of the last mentioned, with regard to vine- yard culture, for it is the best ^Jfe of all others for the purpose, on account of the facility with which the canes can be tied to the supports, and the permanently less quantity of plants that it is necessary to congregate on a given space. And here we have evidence to prove the above mentioned assertions respecting the shortening of vitality; for a plantation trained on the single cane short-cut plan, and every season subjected to this severe lopping, requires occasional renewing. So much is this the case in some parts of Europe, that a fresh plantation of vines has to be made every three or four years. Now, as this can be pre- vented with so little expense or trouble, and there is a more than counterbalancing advantage arising from the system, it is well, in this particular instance, to follow what best answers the purpose in view. The renewal method is adopted by some, which is as follows : The one year old cane is cut back to about half the length of the rafter, and allowed to bear the next season ; while fruiting, the top growth is conducted per- pendicularly, and at the proper time is pruned off at the top of the house ; during the same summer, another cane is taken up from the bottom, and on one side, which is cut back one-half, as the other one was the previous year. The next season, this new cane is allowed to fruit, and also the upper part of the first one, the side spurs on the lower half having been cut out. Thus, there is a full crop, only each half is on two separate canes. The 6 122 THE GRAPE. youngest one is now suffered to grow, and is in its turn cut off at the top, another brought up from the bottom, and the oldest cut clear out. Fig. 20 represents the three Fig. 20. separate canes in their respective stages. Here we have the fruit always borne on young and vigorous wood, which generally produces the finest fruit ; no spurring is required, and there is the advantage o? a large bulk of leaves and branches, the former of which affords nourishment ; and pro- motes the maturity of the roots ; but the tops require somewhat more side room, and the vines ought to be planted a little further apart than is necessary where spurring is resorted to. Where a vine is allotted only a certain space, this is one of the best methods of training, but it is unsightly, and if the same advantages can be gained otherwise, and at the same time beauty in appearance, it is certainly desirable to in- sure both. Now the first described mode accomplishes this object in the grapery and also retains a larger amount of solid structure in the form of a strong permanent stem, through which can flow an ample supply of sap to the leares, and receive back the food, elaborated by them, down to the roots in a healthy way, and without any un- due excitement to the whole organization. But the best of all plans, and also the most natural is, to extend the head somewhat each season, so that finally, one vine may cover a large surface. Nature works by certain fixed laws which man cannot alter, and any long continued attempt to force her to swerve from her own course, is sure to end in final failure and disappointment. It cannot be denied, that much success is obtained by PRUNING AND TRAINING. 123 modes of cultivation which would appear to speak to the contrary, but observe the ultimate results patiently, with care and without prejudice, and all these abuses will tell their own woful tale. One of the causes why the grape vine so soon wears out, as it is generally considered to do, is produced by such close pruning as we yearly subject it to the volume of the plants is increased for three or four years at first, and afterwards only allowed the same extent of surface. There is no other fruit-bearing plant that would continue to prosper long with this treatment ; take for example a peach or an apple, allow either the one or the other to produce a long straight stem of twelve or fifteen feet, and cut in the side branches to an eye, never suffering it any further extension but what is produced in the summer again to be cut out and it would, after a few years' constant excitement, dwindle down to a mere stump, and finally die out. If the grape-vine does not show the same so readily, it is only because of its extremely tenacious constitutional powers, for the same law governs both, and both alike must sooner or later arrive at the same imbecile condition. As a vine, if extended over a great space, would only admit of a limited number being grown, it becomes neces- sary to explain how this may be accomplished ; and like- wise how, during the interval, the usual crop may be secured. In planting, place in the centre of the intended row a vine of known good qualities; at intervals of about twelve feet plant others of equal merit, and fill up the vacancies with sorts as fancy may dictate, so that each one may stand about three feet apart from the next. During the first two seasons train all up as usual ; so far we have elongated the surface upwards, and the canes will be near the top of the house. In pruning the second fall, as there are side spurs on the lower half of the canes 124 THE GKAPB. in the Louse, or on the whole length in the vineyard, cut these in to about three eyes. Bear each other vine the next year as heavy as it is thought advisable, so as to secure the fruit ripening and coloring well ; ease the others in like proportion, which will give vigor and assist them afterwards. When the fruit is cut on those vines which have borne the heaviest crop take them out, and when pruning the others leave the side branches about a foot long, which will fill up the vacant spaces. Next year train these branches horizontally, and in the fall following, spur them as advised above, with the upright cane, and at the same time leave another length on the end of each. As these side branches continue to be lengthened and fill up more space, bear those vines on each side of them some- what heavier, and afterwards take them out. In the course of a few years each vine will appear as seen in Fig. 21. Fig. 21. By this system it will readily be seen that few varieties can be grown in a limited space, but quality always gives the most permanent satisfaction, and where variety is required it may be had in the first instance and quality secured afterwards, if care is taken in planting good sorts in the right places at the commencement. It may be thought by some persons that so few vines PRUNING AND TRAINING. 125 are not able to carry a full crop in a given space; never fear that, for if there is sufficient surface of well-ripened wood, the roots in good order, and the expansion judiciously accumulated, the quantity of fruit may be gradually in- creased until a ton weight may be taken from off a single vine, and that without injury, as is proved by some which are now in existence, and are known to be over two hun- dred years old, among which may be mentioned the large Hamburgh at Hampton Court, near London, that has frequently borne the above weight in a season. Show me an instance where the same longevity and continued fruitfulness has been gained by the ordinary walking- stick confining to one cane or short-cut method, and then I will believe that nature can alter her course, and that man's simple ideas can control the wonderful action of his Creator's intelligence. That judicious shortening in at the right season, and under proper circumstances, is beneficial has been clearly demon- strated ; we know that it tends to give vigorous and healthy growth; both theory and practice tell us so. By it we gain a stronger propelling power from the roots, without reducing their volume, or enfeebling their energy. But to cut annually ', so free growing a plant as the grape- vine to a mere stump, is, to say the least of it, a barbarous mutilation of God s providence, and is sure to end in prema- ture weakness, sappy and papery leaves, spindling ill-ripen- ed wood, and barrenness. By this method, last described, the roots have ample space to luxuriate in ; one vine would eventually occupy and fill a whole border, which usually has to accommodate a great number, and as the head has a corresponding expansion, according to the requirements of the subject, a greater certainty of permanence and future vitality is gained. As a matter of profit it is the most beneficial, for there is surely more lasting gain where 126 THE GRAPE. a house or even a vineyard will continue to yield a good crop for two or three generations, than when the planting, making fresh borders, &c., has to be renewed every ten, or at most fifteen years. In making these remarks we would not wish to be severe, for there are many persons so situated by pe- culiar circumstances as to prevent them from carrying out the most natural or best methods of culture, even though they may be aware of the error of their present practice, yet there are others who have popular and prac- tical prejudices to overcome, before they will be enabled to see the desirableness of asking themselves a few physiological questions, or take the trouble to find the answers in nature's voluminous folios. May we hope that these set notions and dogmas may speedily vanish, from this free country at least, where the mutual and physical industry of man is unfettered, and where we may become a pattern to the world, in good culture, if not in artificial grandeur. We cannot let the present part of the subject pass by without a few remarks on summer pruning, and as it may be thought that this is merely a repetition of former words, we plead the importance of the matter for the introduc- tion. It has often been advised, and that, too, by some of the best cultivators, to stop the bearing shoots at an eye, or in some instances two eyes above the bunch, and like- wise to do the same with the young cane when it has elongated to the top of the rafter, or the upright support ; also to pinch out all laterals as they are produced, thereby making the operation into a rule. There is no doubt that many conscientiously believe such a system to be judi- cious, and because their crops are satisfactory to themselves, they continue on the same practice without further con- sideration ; but this does not close up the avenue for free PRUNING AND TRAINING. 127 discussion, neither does it prove that it is the ultimatum of perfection. If we pursue the investigation of this mat- ter in a physiological manner, we are led to understand that all summer pruning tends to lessen the vigor, and cripple the energy of all plants ; and practical experience, combined with observation, proves the fact. Arguing from this point, we may be accused of advocating no sum- mer pruning at all, to which we say, " not guilty." If the greatest extension of branches and corresponding roots, or bulk of timber were the object, then the less pruning the better, but the present position is a consider- ation of circumstances and adaptability, independent, to a certain extent, of nature's action ; the object being to coax her to accommodate herself to our conveniences ; and as the grape vin is one of the most easily trained of her family, we have, in this case, a partial control. We ought then, to consider what we are doing, and how far we are acting in unison with what are known to be* established laws, and to infringe too far upon these is sure to produce evil. This or that man's dogmatical opinion must cer- tainly fail unless it be based upon this indisputable cer- tainty, where is the use of following this-should-be, or that ought-to-be, unless somewhat in accordance with these natural demands. Yet we find a prolific and luxu- riant plant, such as the grape-vine is, stubbed in, cut close, and sheared like a convict, we were near saying shaved too, for the pinching back to one eye above the fruit is nearly tantamount to that close operation. The reason given for this peculiar treatment is, that the fruit, and also the plant, is strengthened by it. How would it strengthen one's toes by cutting off a finger, supposing another would grow in its place ; or would an animal pro- duce the finer offspring if the body were to be mutilated ? It is just possible that an amount of gangrene would be 128 THE GRAPE. the consequence; but as to truly healthful action, it is possible that we should be none the gainers. Perhaps this kind of analogy may be thought a very vulgar way of explaining what might be shown in more delicate words ; but if coarse, the true meaning is purposely exhi- bited, to show up the ridiculousness of curtailing nature. As stated above, the subject is a matter of circumstances, we have to do with a family of plants that would occupy a great volume of surface, yet we wish to have a large number, comparatively speaking, in a small space, and the best we can do is, not to weaken down natural energy more than there is occasion for. Pruning, properly per- formed, and in the right season, is certainly of great ser- vice ; we find it so practically, its good effects are every- where to be seen when it is adopted ; but so far and no further is it advisable. If proof be required of the injury that may be done by too close stopping, let any one try the experiment of pinching in closely the side shoots of a part of his vines, and leave the others several joints longer, and he will find at the end of the growing season that those which were left the longest are better ripened than the shorter ones, providing the light has had equal influence on both. If the'" vines are no further apart than three feet, the distance will allow a shoot on each side of fifteen to eighteen inches, upon which there may be from seven to eight leaves ; and allowing the fruit to be on the second or third joint, there will still remain four or five leaves above it, each of which will do its duty in elaborating the crude juices, and assimilating the carbonic acid absorbed, thereby adding to the bulk and solidity of the whole structure ; and if so, increasing the amount and greater firmness of the roots ; for, accord- ing to the amount and action of the foliage under favora- ble influences, so are the underground extremities encour- PRUNING AND TRAINING. 129 aged. As stated elsewhere, the grape vine is a plant of great longevity ; notwithstanding which, with the prac- tice of some vigneronsi it is considered to he worn out in a few years, and fresh plantations have to be made period- ically. This may in vineyard culture answer the particu- lar purposes of the cultivator, and by the method of only allowing a few feet of bearing surface to each individual, a great amount of fruit, and suitable quality for his pur- pose, may be obtained from a limited extent of land em- ployed. Here is evidence that too much curtailing of the plant's natural disposition shortens life, and weakens down the constitution to such an extent as to make it worthless, comparatively speaking, in a very short time. Considering that there is not a very great expense in replanting a vineyard, the means may be said to justify the end, but when we come to the outlay incurred in erecting glass houses, preparing borders, &c., it behooves us to think well how we can pay back a permanent inte- rest on the capital invested, and if there be any method that will keep a house of vines in healthy bearing for a long time without the requirement of renewal, surely it must be wisdom to adopt it. If the grape vine is a long liver when allowed to extend, and soon worn out if kept in small compass, is it not reasonable, if we wish perma- nency, that all the available space that we have in the superficial area of a house should be covered with healthy leaves, in order the better to concentrate and store up the food for future development, and add each year a fresh layer of well organized alburnum to the previously exist- ing sound vascular tissue 1 If we take further into account the glutted preparations that are often compounded for vinery borders, and the consequently immense encourage- ment given to luxuriant growth, it really appears surpris- ing that such close cutting in as is generally practised 130 THE GRAPE. does not either kill, or cause disease in less time than is the case, and it is just possible that the present ravages of mildew in Europe have been accelerated by this cause. Such are the writer's ideas upon the subject, and as the present object is to enlighten the learner, they are submit- ted to approval or censure, as each practical and suc- cessful cultivator may think fit, with the conscientious belief that such is more becoming the present age of pro- gress, ajjd if followed up would be the means of prolong- ing the healthfullness and fruitfulness of the grape-vine. CHAPTER XII. PROPAGATION AND THE RAISING OF NEW KINDS. THE grape-vine may be propagated from Eyes, Cut- tings, Layers, Seed, and by Grafting, EYES. An Eye is a short portion of a branch having only one bud, Fig. 22. This method is most commonly made use of for increasing the exotic varieties, and is equally applicable to the natives; it is the best for all purposes, where there is the convenience of a glass frame or hot-house. The process is as follows : Fi > 22 ' Any time from the beginning of Febru- ary to the last of March take well- ripened yearling branches, and cut into as many pieces as there are buds, so that one remain to each portion ; reduce the wood above and below, by a slanting cut, diverging from the bud on both ends ; have in readiness as many pots, propagating pans, or shallow boxes with holes in the bottom, as may be needed, throw in an inch or two of small lumps of charcoal or broken crocks; over this, place a layer of moss, and fill up with soil, of loose but moderately fertile texture ; make it somewhat solid, and press the prepared buds into it, an inch apart, so that the tops be level with the surface; place them in a gentle hot-bed, or a house where a night temperature of 55 to 60 a is maintained; keep the earth moist, but not too wet, as the young shoots when they begin to protrude are liable to be injured by (181) 132 THE GRAPE. dampness. For the same reason, if a hot-bed be used, great care should be taken that there is no accumulation of rank steam, or condensed moisture. In five or six weeks they will have elongated an inch or two above the soil, when they may be potted off singly into half-pint pots, and still retained in the same or a similar situation. When they have grown some five or six inches more, these pots will be filled with roots, and the plants may be trans- ferred into those of quart size, which will be sufficient for the season, if only stocky plants for future planting be required, but when the intention is to make strong plants for fruiting next year in pots, it will be requisite to re- move from time to time, according as they progress, into gallons and two gallons. The shoots will also need to be tied to stakes as they continue to grow. If healthy stock is wanted it will be necessary to place the plants, during the summer, in the same growing temperature as is recom- mended for fruiting vines, and by care and encouragement these young canes may be extended to twelve or fifteen feet long ; it is however desirable that the tops should be nipped out at the height of about six feet, which will pre- vent crowding, and allow the light to act more freely on the lower leaves, which in their turn mature the buds on each axil. As stated above, this strong growth is not neces- sary, unless for pot culture ; for a small well-ripened vine, with plenty of healthy roots, is quite as good for perma- nent planting, and with after good management will make headway equal to a stronger one. Cuttings. A cutting as generally understood is a length of the last season's cane containing several buds, Fig. 23. To propagate by this plan proceed as follows : So soon as the ground is in good working order after the breaking up of winter, dig, and break up well with the spade, a sufficient plot for the quantity intended ; string a line across one PROPAGATION AND KAISING. 133 end, cut a trench about six inches deep, prepare the cut- tings as shown above, and place each six inches apart against the bank so formed ; leave one or two eyes pj cents. Dana's Muck Manual for the use of Farmers. A Treatise on the Physical and Chemical Properties of Soils, the Chemistry of Manures ; including also the subjects of composts, artificial manures and irrigation. A new edition, with a chapter on Bones and Superphosphates. $1. The Stable Book. A Treatise on the Management of Horses, in relation to Stabling, Grooming, Feed- ing, Watering, and Working, Construction of Stables, Ventilation, Appendages of Stables, Management of the Feet, and Management of Diseased and Defective Horses. 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A Treatise on the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding and General Management of Rabbits, with remarks upon their diseases and remedies, to which are added full directions for the construction of Hutches, Rabbitries, &c., together with recipes for cooking and dressing for the table. Beautifully illustrated. Ctetk, 50 cU. The Horse's Foot, and how to keep it Sound. With cuts illustrating the anatomy of the Foot, and containing valuable hints on shoeing and stable management in health and in disease. By William Miles. G'oth, 60 cU. Stephens' (Henry) Book of the Farm ; A Complete Guide to the Fanner, Steward, Plowman, Cattleman, Shepherd, Fiokl Worker, and Dairy Maid, By Henry Stephens. With Four Hundred and Fifty Illustrations; to which are added Explanatory Notes, Remarks, ,'.* . . . $l 25 Second Series, containing Every Lady Her Own Flower Gardener, Essay on Manures, Elements of Agriculture, American Kkcl.en Gardiner, Bird Fancier, American Rose CuliurLst, Saxton's Eural Hand Books, $1 25 Third Series, containing Miles on the*Horse's Foot, Viner their Extirpation; being a Manual of Plain Directions for the certain Destruction of every description of Vermin. With numerous illustrations on Wood. An Essay on Manures; Submitted to the Trustees of the Massachusetts Society for Promoting Agriculture, for their Premium. By Samuel H. Dana. The American Bird Fancier; Considered with reference to the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding, Management, and Pe- culiarities of Cage and House Birds. Illustrated with Engravings. By D. Jay Browne. Chemistry Made Easy. For the Use of Farmers. By J. Topham. Elements of Agriculture. Translated from the French, and Adapted to the use of American Farmers. By F. G. Skinner. The American Kitchen Gardener; Containing Directions for the Cultivation of Vegetables and Garden Fruits. By T. G Fcssenden. 10 Books Published by C. M. Saxton & Co. The Bee Keeper's Chart; Being a brief practical Treatise on the Instinct, Habits, and Management of the Honey Bee, in all its various Branches, the result of many years' practical experience, whereby the auf.or has been enabled to divest the subject of much that has been considered mysterious and difficult to overcome, and render it more sure, profitable, and interest- ing to every one than it has heretofore been. By E. W. Phelps. Every Lady Her Own Flower Gardener ; Addressed to the Industrious and Economical only; containing Simple and Practical Directions for Cultivating Plants and Flowers: also, Hints for the Management of Flowers in Rooms, -with brief Botanical Descriptions of Plants and Flowers. The whole in plain and simple language. By Louisa Johnson. The Cow: Dairy Husbandry and Cattle Breeding. By M. M. Milburn, and revised by IL D. Eicbardson and Ambrose Stevens. With Il- lustrations. Wilson on the Culture of Flax ; Its Treatment, Agricultural and Technical ; delivered before the New York State Agri. cultural Society, at the Annual Fair, held at Saratoga, In September last, by John Wil- son, late President of the Eoyal Agricultural College at Cirencester, England. Weeks on Bees. A Manual ; Or, an Easy Method of Managing Bees in the most profitable manner to their owner ^ with infallible rules to prevent their destruction by the Moth ; with an appendix by Wooster A. Flanders. Reemelin's (Chas.) Vine-dresser's Manual. Containing full instructions as to location and soil ; preparation of ground ; selection and propagation of vines ; the treatment of a young Vineyard ; trimming and train- ing the vines ; manures and the making of wine. Every department illustrated. Bement's (C. N.) Kabbit Fander. A Treatise on the Breeding, Rearing, Feeding and General Management of Rabbits, with remarks upon their diseases and remedies ; to which are added full directions for the construction of Hutches, Rabbitries., &c., together with recipes for cooking and dressing for the table. The Horse's Foot, and how to keep it Sound. Wita cuts illustrating the anatomy of the Foot, and containing valuable hints on shoeing and stable management both in health arid disease. By William Miles. The Skilful Housewife, Or, Complete Guide to Domestic Cookery, Taste, Comfort and Economy, embracing 659 receipts pertaining to Household Duties, the care of Health, Gardening, Bird*, Education of Children, etc., etc. By Mrs. L. G. AbelL C. M. Saxton & Co., Publishers, 140 Fulton Street, New York. THE BEST WORK ON THE HOUSE. PRICE ONE DOLLAR. C. M SAXTON & Co. HAVE JUST PUBLISHED THE STABLE BOOK; A. Treatise on the Management of Horses, in relation to Stabling, Grooming, Feeding, Watering, and Working. BY JOHN STEWART, Veterinary Surgeon, and Professor of Veterinary Medicine in the Andewonian Univerity, Glasgow. WITH NOTES AND ADDITIONS ADAPTING IT TO AMERICAN FOOD & CLIMATE BY A. B. ALLEN, Editor of the American Agriculturist. ILLUSTRATED WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS. CONTENTS. of, Principles of Feeding, Practice of Feed- ing, Pasturing, Soiling, Feeding at Straw Yard. CHAP. VI Water. CHAP. VII. Service, General Preparation for Work, Physiology of Muscular Exertion, Preparation for Fast Work. Treatment after Work, Accidents of Work, Repose. CHAP. VIII. Management of Diseased and DefectiTe Horses, Medical Attendance. CHAP. I. Stabling, Construction of Stables, Ventilation of Stables, Appendages of Stables. CHAP. II. Stable Operations, Stable Men, Grooming Operations of Decoration, Manage- ment of the Feet, Operations in the Stable. CHAP. III. Stable Restraints, Accidents, Habits, Vices. CHAP. IV. Warmth. CHAP. V. Food Articles of, Composition of, Preparation of, Assimilation of , Indigestion " I have aimed in this Work TO MAKE PRACTICE THE MASTER OF THEOR Y, and have endeavored to arrange the whole subject into divisions which will render every part of it taei.li/ understood, and easily referred to by every one." Author's Preface. " The Horse has been a favorite study with me from childhood, and for twenty years I have been more or less engaged in breeding and rearing them, on my own farm, and break- ing and fitting them for market. I also had, during a residence of two years in Europe, the advantage of Studying the Stable Economy of large Military Establishments, and to inform myself by personal inspection on the subject of the Horse in general, and particularly hi rearing and stable treatment, and in so doing examined alike the Thorough Bred, the Hun- ter, the Roadster, the Farm and the Dray Horse. A. B. ALLEN." American Editor. The Horse's Foot, and How to keep it Sound. WITH ILLUSTRATIONS. BY WIL,L,IAUI HIIJLES. Price : Paper, Twenty-five Cents. Cloth, Fifty Cents. C. M, Saxton & Co., Publishers, 140 Fulton Street, New York, AMERICAN cTlTLE DOCTOR. Eleven Thousand Copies Sold ! Price One Dollar. Dadd's Great Work on the DISEA.SES OF OA.TT31.E; CONTAINING The necessary information for preserving the health and curing the diseases of Oxen, Cows, Sheep, and Swine ; with a great variety of original re- ceipts and valuable information in reference to FARM AND DAIRY MANAGEMENT, WHEREBY Every fflan can be His Own Cattle Doctor, BY GEOKGE H. DADD. Veterinary Surgeon, of Boston. " We have carefully examined the Book, and can fully recommend it to all who own Cat- tle, as a safe and reliable guide. The author is an experienced Farrier, and as such his prescriptions and general instructions may be relied upon." PHIL. NEWS. Every Farmer, Milkman, Drover & Butcher should own this Book. D RICE ONE DOLLAR. YOUATT & MARTIN ON CATTLE. A Treatise on Breeding and General Management of Cattle; Comprising a Full History of the various Races ; their Origin, Breeding and Merits : their capacity for BEEP and MILK ; the Nature aud Treatment of their Diseases ; the whole forming a Complete Guide for the Farmer, the Amateur, and the Veterinary Surgeon. With One Hundred Illustrations. A New Edition, edited by Hon. Ambrose Stevens. Price $1 25 GUENON ON MILCH COWS : A Treatise on Milch Cows, whereby the Quality and Quantity of Milk which any Cow will give may be accurately determined by observing Natural Marks or External Indications alone ; the length of time she will continue to give Milk, &c., &c. By M. Francis Guenon, of Libourne, France. Translated by Nicholas P. Trist, Esq. ; with Introductory Remarks and Observations on the Cow and the Dairy, by JOHN S. SKINNER. With Numerous Illustrations. Price, neatly done up in Paper Covers, 37 cts. Cloth, 62 els. 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