DS 413 iDl77i Ihn SKETCHE AND RhMhi..c,a THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES BY J. BOWLES DALY, LL. D. Author of "Radical Pioneers " "Ireland in the days of Dean Siri/l,' "Ireland in '98," "Glimpses of Irish Industries," " Storm Heroes," itx. CALCUTTA: PATRICK PRESS, 28 Convent Road. 1896. CALCrTTA : PRISTED AND PUBLISHED BT S. P. GHOSH, AT THE PATRICK PRESS, 28, COXTEh-T ROAD. I DEDICATION. To H. H. The GAEKWAR of BARODA, G. C. S. I. Sir, The fact that jou have sent the smartest lads in j'our schools to England, France, Germany and America to get a sound technical and Scientific Education ; that you have founded an Agricultural College, opened several Technical Schools and finally made Education compulsory in your State, places you in the front rank of Educational reformers. You have also given a splendid example of enlightenment and liberaUty to all Educationalists in India : to the English Government and to all the Princes and nobles who desire the welfare of the people, I claim the credit of having first sounded the tocsin in this battle and unsparingly condemned the existing system of Education, which is old-fashioned obsolete and absolutely worthless. It withdraws the youth of the country from the fields, the forests and the workshop, and degrades the University by converting it into an 3G56BB; intellectual dram shop for the manufacture of quill-driving machines, who are lost to their country and homes, and whose only Nirvana is a Government pension. The thou- sands who fail, return to their homes, a useless burden to their families, censuring the Government which encouraged hopes which were never realised. As a true lover of India who feels for and with the youth of the country, I dedicate to you this book containing desultory articles, many of which when first published excited howls of indignation from respectable rascality and cowardly conservatism. These however are the best evidences a man can have, that he has said something it was time to say, I pray that your High- ness may have a long and prosperous reign to continue the noble work you have begun, and that the people, through tlie length and breadth of India, may bless and honour the foremost and most unselfish Prince in the country. I have the honour to remain, with the profoundest sentiments of admiration and respect Your Highness's Very faithful servant The Author. PREFACE. Most of the articles have appeared in the Indian Press. For permission to reproduce them, I beg to thank the Editors of the " Times of India", the " Statesman" and the " Bee". Some also appeared in the " Indian Daily News" and the " Indian World", while conducted by me. The letter of the students appeared in the " Indian Mirror". 173 Lower Circular Eoad ~~^' ^J^JlcutJaT: ~}> J. BOWLES DALY. 28rd NovembeFl896. CONTENTS. PAGE The Cram System (Letters) ... ... ••■ 1 On the Hooghly ... ... ... ••« 16 The Indian Museum ... ... — ••• 23 The Fairy Tales of Science ... ... 33 The Virtue of old Shoes ... ..• ". •W Technical Education ... ..• ... 45 Jail Labour ... ... ••• ••• ••• ^^ The Mercantile Marine ... ... ... 55 The General Hospital ... ... ... 60 The Municipal Market ... ... ... ••• 68 Ceylon and its Gems ... ... ... 77 The Pearl Fisheries of Ceylon ... ... ... 89 Cawnpore ... ... ••• ••• ^° Delhi ... ... ... ••• ••• ^^^ Lahore ... ... ... ••• ••• m LucKNOW ... ... ... ••• ••• 119 Agea ... ... ... ••• ••• 12' VI PAGE Darjeeling ... ... ••• ••• ••• 135 An Indian Novelist ... ... ... 146 An Eastern Impresario ... ... ... 150 The Amazons of the Thames Company ... ... 154 John Chinaman, m. d. ... ... ... . ... 160 The Hidden Powers in Man ... ... 167 D'arc's Marionettes ... ... ... ... 174 Interview with Miss Lucia Harwood ... ... 188 An Interview with Mr. Maples ... ... ... 196 An Interview with the Principal, Seebpoor College 203 Outwitting the Saheb ... ... ... ... 215 CHAPTER I. THE CRAM SYSTEM. A BRILLIANT joumalistic friend of mine was once thrown into prison for threatening the life of his mother-in-law. I happened to call on him when he came out, and while on the point of expressing my commiseration for the hard- ship he suffered, he checked the current of my sympathy hy saying : "It was just the experience I wanted. I have been here and there and everywhere : up in a balloon, down in a thieves' kitchen, gone through an earthquake, written a book, and had the measles. I have gone through all the appointed conditions of a modern man ; loved, quarrelled, wrote, travelled, sinned, and repented. I only wanted to see life from behind the bars of a prison to complete my education." My friend made very good use of his experience, for he wrote several articles on prison-life and discipline, and suggested improvements which were accepted by the Government and proved beneficial. He attained his object, including the minor advantage of entirely suppressing the objectionable mother-in-law. This trivial incident proves that the world can be made wiser l)y 2 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. the disclosure of any of its members who are not prevented by false modesty or any paltry reason from detailing their experience. I have a tale to unfold which may lead to a useful reform, if our rulers care to profit by the experience of one of their least important subjects. AX INDIAN PROFESSORSHIP. It was with a distinct feeling of satisfaction, not unlike that which consoled my friend of prison experience, that I accepted the offer of the Professorship of English Literature in the Metropolitan College, made me by the Hon'ble Surendra Nath Bannerjee, the popular tribune and educational broker of Bengal. Mr. Bannerjee is the proprietor of the Ripon College, a large establishment with several branches, and, being an experienced manager, he has lately been entrusted with the charge of the Metropolitan Institute, a typical Indian school and college with about fourteen hundred students. The recent demand for edu- cation has called into existence a large number of such training schools, which are extensively patronised by the youth of the town, and also those of the country, who crowd the lanes and slums of Calcutta. The fees usually range from six to twelve rupees a month ; but the Metro- politan valorously offers a university education, with choice of professors, for the ridiculous sum of three rupees all round ! Here the cram system is conducted on entirely commercial principles, and can be seen in all its naked de- formity. The teaching establishments of Calcutta form a mushroom growth of formidable character. My observa- THE CRAM SYSTEM. tions are strictly confined to those of the natives, among whom a strong rivalry exists, not for the acquisition of knowledge, but for getting "passes" and procuring fees. The college authorities are compelled to supply the exact kind of information the students want, and not what is most beneficial. The natural order of affairs is inverted. In Europe the professors set the tasks and the students learn them ; in India the students dictate the studies and the professors learn the lessons. If the authorities will not supply the article of knowledge according to the taste of the student, the latter will leave and seek another school. Education is thus reduced to a matter of mere bargaining. These mushroom colleges have no endowments except the elemosynary aid bestowed by a few individuals ; they depend for their support on the fees of the pupils. THK REAL VALUE OP A DEGREE. The advantages of a college education I give in its correct order. First, it enables a youth to win good matri- monial stakes for himself ; for in India it is the son, and not the daughter, who is put up in the market : the m.a., the B.A., and even the plucked b.a., possess a certain monetary value, rising in grades. Next, the degree gratifies personal vanity, serves as a feather in the cap ; praise to the Bengalee Baboo is as sweet as blubber to the Esquimaux and reproof, unpalatable to all, is simply nauseous to one who is usually gentle, good-humoured, and of excellent temper. The Baboo will tell a hundred fibs without compunction through mere courtesy ; he knows that if a man signs himself "your 4 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. obedient servant," the phrase does not necessarily imply that the writer is going to blacken your boots and he pushes this form of politeness to its last entrenchment. If any one cai'ries about with him in Indian Society an implicit faith in mere verbal promises, he deserves all he gets. The Bengalee never says "yes" or "no" distinctly to any pro- position, for he knows the subtle spell which lies in courte- ous delay. In the matter of diplomacy or putting off the fulfilment of a promise he is a match for the Turk. The third object of education is the chance of getting a post under the Government. The smallness of the pay is no drawback ; the post is everything, for it means authority, and the ingenious methods of exacting indirect taxation are known to every chuprassie in the town. I know the durwan of a large business house whose nominal income amounts to the sum of ^:&-15 a month. His wardrobe on taking the post consisted of a string and two inches of cloth : he really had nothing but his skin which he could call his own. That man, however, is worth at present five lakhs. My duties in the college were to teach for nineteen hours a week. All the subjects were prescribed, and the clerk of the establishment supplied a time-table on which they were entered. An hour was devoted to each subject. The students were nearly all young men, few under nine- teen and many over twenty-three. Their conduct was characterised by a species of independence which bordered on insolence. My experience of student life in England, France, and Germany presented me with no parallel. They strode into the class-room at all hours and went out as THE CRAM SYSTEM. I they liked, making noise and seriously interrupting the work of the class, while during the lecture they held conversations with each other which made the business of speaking a labour. The number in the classes ranged from one hundred and twenty to a hundred and seventy. There was no attempt at order or discipline, and the business of signing the roll presented the appearance of a free fight, the clerk's voice being hardly audible. The books for study comprised Shakespeare, Landor, Spenser's Faerie Queene, Sir Philip Sidney's Apology for Poetry, and Frederick Harrison's admirable Life of Cromwell — a fine selection, but very much beyond the comprehension of men unacquainted with the simplest words of English. The ignorance of the students was petrifying ; a slight glimmering of mind within just served to render internal darkness visible ; their faces did not express any kind of activity beyond that of perspiring. It was my custom to read a sentence or short paragraph out of any of the books which formed the subject of the lecture. Then give the sense, using the simplest Saxon words, and, having finished the explanation, before going to the next sentence, request the students to ask questions. The inquiries propounded revealed the qualities of their mind and the extent of their comprehension, which was appalling. Here is a sample — " Ulvir crimwell brought his wife to Huntingdan : meaning of ' to ' in sin-tance explain." The whole passage was run together without inflection, 6 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. uttered with jaws set as tight as a rat-trap, and expressed in a villainous cacking tone which sounded like the rinsing of a bottle. As there are no marks for pronunciation or enunciation, the Indian students regard such accessories to the language as beneath contempt. Macbeth, yielding to the wicked prompting of the Weird Sisters, felt the evil suggestions " unfix his hair and make his seated heart knock at his ribs." The majority of the students could not comprehend the mental embarrassment of the Thane of "Coddore," as they called him. Macbeth wanted the throne : nothing was easier than to cut the throat of his kinsman when the king happened to be under his roof ? What useless fuss did the poet make of the whole transaction ! After an exhaustive explanation, I asked whether they had any questions, whereupon a young man of five and twenty, who had passed the Entrance, inquired, " What's ribs ?" The soul-stirring words of Shakespeare, the cameo-cut sentences of Landor, the organ tones of Milton, and the manly sentiments of Tennyson make about as much im- pression on the Bengalee mind as the taps of an auction- eer's hammer on a block of granite. " I can't follow you," said one of the students with a dazed look in his eyes, like that of a detective trying to find a clue and thinking that his informant was bent on deceiving him. They were con- stantly looking for some recondite meaning which the text did not suggest. Among the third and fourth year students were several clever intelligent boys who showed both respect and attention ; the rank and file, however, were wanting entirely in foundation knowledge. To make the silk purse THE CRAM SYSTEM. out of this bristly raw material would task the efforts of the wisest. The most glaring defect was the absence of any thirst for knowledge ; they evidently regarded words merely as a wheel-barn^w to convey thoughts, and not the becoming dress of ideas. During the reading of the most impassioned selection from the great dramatist, there was 'a tranquillity on their faces which resembled the stillness on the lid of a box, while my explanation occasionally elicited such a smile as one might conceive the antediluvians to have indulged in while listening to the preaching of Noah. It was, however, in discussing the early life of Crom- well, V7ith his deep searchings of heart and stirring appeals to God, that I perceived the spiritual poverty of these poor boys. The hard Puritan, with his earnest prayers and deep family affection, was a study which they entirely failed to comprehend. They saw, however, that he opposed the Government, murdered the king, and that his name stood high among English worthies. On the parliamentary struggle I have been asked several shrewd questions by the advanced classes, which convinced me that the worst side of the Protector's character made a deep impression on them. IsTo doubt this will bear fruit in time, and young Bengal will assimilate his own views from this period of history which will afford him future guidance, though he will never acquire the vigour or courage of the grim old Ironside. WHAT THEY WANT. The main idea of the student under the cram system is to get a " pass," so he wants his information boiled down 8 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. and carefully chewed. He cares no more for the quality of the grub given him than a young crow who clamours for sustenance with o^^en beak. Like the bird in question, he does not care to look for his food himself ; this he wants the Professor to do for him. The information must be made up in pellets which can be swallowed with as little trouble as possible. The very words must be dictated, that he may enter them in his note-book. The only faculty of his mind exercised is that of memory. He objects to be questioned, and makes answers in noises which sound like words bitten in two and swallowed before they are half out. That venerable divine and eminent scholar, the Rev. Father Lafont told me that in an examination in physiology, a student gave so complete an answer to a paper that the examiners suspected the boy of copying. The youth was summoned to appear before the examiners. He denied the charge and boldly challenged them to set him then and there any question on the subject. A question on the brain was given him, which he answered on paper with great accuracy. The examiners were astounded, but one of the number tested his knowledge by calling the servant to bring up a brain from the museum. As the man was leaving the room to execute the order, the examiner said, " Stop, I'll write down what I want." Instead of brain he Avrote, " Send up a heart." When the latter was placed before the student, he could not distinguish between a heart and a brain ! Father Lafont deplores with me the outrageous system of ' cram,' and considers its effect most injurious. THE CRAM SYSTEM. AN UNIQUE TETITION. On several occasions I rebuked, in mild language, the unpunctuality and want of manners of the students, show- ing them that book-learning was not everything, and that the success of Englishmen was due mainly to their character for uprightness, fidelity to engagements, and perseverance. The advice was taken in mutinous silence, contrary to the slavish subservience enforced by the wretched system of ' cram.' A small section of the students showed their resentment by indicting a complaint to the manager. Mr. Bannerjee forwarded me their petition. The following is an extract which refers to myself : "Our respected professor, Dr. Daly who, you know, is reputed be an accomplished lecturer and man of wide learning, is driving us to desperation. We cannot properly appreciate his lectures, for they are so out of the sphere of discipline obtaining here. So that we have to wile away the hour at some other pursuits. For instance, if we ask him the sum and substance of a passage, he would have some words explained and many un- answered ; on other occasions he would not answer, and make us silent with some sarcastic or witty criticism on pronunciation, or such nonsense. Thus, Sir, if you be good enough to make an inquiry into the efficiency into which he encompasses his objects, you will be much dispirited and degrieved. Notice, worshipful Sir, if this humble petition of ours be not taken into the consideration of your worship- ful presence, we shall be utterly and sadly neglected and have to plod our weary round, some sad melancholy and vague vision, which fact may at last turn to grinding oppres- 10 INDIA X SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. sion and great loss to our civil prospects. In fine the only thing we beg of you is to make sifting inquiry after pro- ceedings, and hare yourself freed from future complaints of this nature." I will do the manager justice to say that he per- ceives the evils of the system, but feels powerless to oppose it. My recommendations are, that the number of subjects for the degree be reduced, and that viva voce examinations in English be introduced. In the Government colleges there are a body of cultured English teachers who will make short work of the "cram" system if the opportunity is granted them. If this serious defect is allowed to go on un- checked, the Government will have cause to regret it. I am filled with admii-ation at the large and generous policy of education granted by our rulers, and this admiration suffers no abatement because of the defects of the system. We all learn by mistakes. But, in the name of common sense, let us givf these poor youths a suitable education which will enable them to develop the trade, manufactures, and indus- tries of the country, and check the stream of philosophers in patent leather shoes who are proving a nuisance to them- selves and a curse to the country. The above letter was approved by all the leading Edu- cationalists of Calcutta, while it raised a perfect howl of indignation from the students who were unable to distin- guish their friends from their enemies. The answer is a sample of the English taught and a good specimen of the elephantine humour with which they intend to crush the writer whose only intention was to expose and condemn a system frought with the very worst results. THE CRAM SYSTEM. 11 THE RECENT ATTACK ON THE STUDENTS OF THE METROPOLITAN INSTITUTION. [ To the Editor of the " Indian Mirror'. ] Sir, — The students of Dr. Daly owe a deep debt of gratitude to him for the immense favour he has shown to them by taking the trouble of furnishing them with au inexhaustible fund of amusement in the shape of wholesome advice. He is perfectly justified in denouncing, in terms of indignation, the abominable and injurious system of 'cram.' But under the pretext of giving us advice to avoid the "cram" system, he has, we are sorry to say, launched into severe invectives against the behaviour ap.d ignorance of the poor students of the Metropolitan Institution. We think, it has not escaped the notice of the readers that he has tried to show " the whole wealth of his wit" in a single article in the Statesman (in its issue of the 3rd instant). We are really at a loss to understand, how such a puerile, impassionate and, above all, an " Asiatic style" has emanated from the pen of a man like Dr. Daly, whose intellectual gifts, scholarly attainments, and, to crown all, whose bland good nature, still command the admiration of the world. We challenge anybody to question the scholarly attainments of this intellectual giant. His knowledge is of an extensive order, and of a transcendental nature. Neither God nor man can appreciate his true worth. He is an exceptionally fluent speaker, notwithstanding 12 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. his constaut stammering, and his constant efforts for hunt- ing up fine phrases. He is one of the most eminent of philosophers, not- withstanding the fact that he forgets the very A.B.C of his philosophy when he h,>3 to teacli the Bengali students, before whom he becomes extremely nervous. But any one who knows anything about Dr. Daly, knows that he is an out-and-out disciple of Augusta Comte. His knowledge of philosophy is luminous everywhere, excepting in the presence of his pupils. He is, perhaps, the greatest Uterateur of the age, notwithstanding the fact that he gave us certain curious, quaint and sometimes unearthly interpretations of some of the beautiful passages of those books, which we had the good fortune (?) to read with him. We may well designate him as " the great literary Leviathan of the age." His erudition is of a type which can hardly be found in man. He can be called a great Shakespearian scholar, only ignoring the fact that he interpreted certain passages of Macbeth in a curious and fanciful way. This sort of ludicrous interpretations is not due to his ignorance, but to his unfortunate nervousness which he ever feels before the Bengah students, and which he, with all his attempts, we are sure, will never be able to overcome. So we see that it is not his fault, but is Nature's fault. We think that there is no harm in supposing that he is also one of the greatest mathematicians of the 19th century. Had he been born in the time of Newton, he would have dimmed the world-wide renown of that great THE CRAM SYSTEM. 13 man. By the by, had he been a contemporary of Newton, then people would sm-ely have thought that it was only from his gravity that Newton was able to deduce the Law of Gravitation. Such a grave man was our Dr. Daly. He in order " to be dressed in an opinion of wisdom and gravity," will never show his " teeth in the way of smile, though Nestor swear the jest be laughable." Our Lanka-returned [i. e. Ceylon-returned) Professor is a man of versatile genius. It is beyond my power to enumerate all the qualities with which Nature has endowed him. Dr. Daly has published the petition of some young students to cry them down ; but fortunately for them, they have no reputation to lose. On the other hand, he has a world-wide reputation ; so he should take special care that some slang and objectionable expressions may not belie his mighty pen. There is no doubt that he can write English with as much purity as he can write Latin and Greek. Dr. Daly has done the duty of a teacher by teaching us the noble art of vituperation. It is, undoubtedly, one of the noblest and the useful of human arts. To those who do not love to contemplate the fall of human greatness, I do not know a more mortifying spectacle than to see the position to which Dr. Daly is reduced by his savage attack upon the students, who, fools as they are, should have been beneath his notice. Yours, &c.. Students. 14 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. THE LAST WORD ON THE CRAM SYSTEM. [ To the Editor of the " Statesman" . ] Sir, — It is quite fitting that the correspondence ehcited by my article should come to a close. I hope, however, to be permitted a last word in reply. The surgeon who opens an ulcer can hardly expect the patient to entertain a superstitious love for the knife, nor can he wonder at the screams which accompany the operation. These are natural consequences which should cause neither surprise nor offence. "So one who has abused me need be afraid of an action at law, even should he declare that I murdered my grandmother. I wish, however, to say that the gist of my article has been ignored, and only the unimportant side- issues noticed. I hasten to add that there are in India, educationists and heads of colleges as qualified and capable of dealing with the admitted defects of the present University system as are to be found in Europe or America. If these will only meet in conference they can easily devise a system better suited to the wants of the country and the character of the Indian youths than the one now in existence. The Government will be wise in listening to their proposals, and, further, our rulers are imperatively called upon to solicit advice on this momentous question. Nero fiddling over the flames of Eome is sympathy itself compared with the present indifference. Cowper's disquisition on the joys of an English fireside, is not hkely to help the Bengalee who never contemplated THE CRAM SYSTEM. 15 a fireplace, nor the imaginary conversations of Landor, one who never read Greek history. Such studies are about as useful to the Indian in his chrysalis condition as a mosquito-curtain to a rhinoceros. Reading a heap of books is not education. It will not inspire courage, integrity, or a high sense of duty ; but the sum of thought which remains from it will minister to vanity, conceit, and obstruc- tiveness. A sound education should establish a love of knowledge, a desire for enterprise, self-control co-opera- tion, esprit de corps, and a love of country. These are the qualities which enable their possessor to win in the "race which is set before him." The system of "cram" should be abolished, and a simpler and more elevating curriculum introduced, cal- culated to benefit the youth of the day and save India from becoming a vast pauper warren, mns industries, sans manufactures, sans handicrafts. The condition of the masses is the truest test of a country's wealth or poverty, and judged by this standard, India is poor, a veritable land of Stygian darkness and ignorance. To her we might fitly apply the words of the poet : " Fie on't ! fie ! * Tis an unweeded garden : that Grows to seed : things rank and gross in Nature possess it merely." J. BOWLES DALY, ll.d. CHAPTER II. ON THE HOOGHLY. On Thursday last Mr. Weldon tlie enterprising proprietor of the Esplanade Hotel arranged a pleasant excursion on the river. At ten o'clock a party of holiday-makers embarked at Chandpal-ghat on board the Jainti, a steady, commodious boat. Precaution had been taken to supply an abundance of easy-chairs, tables, and everything to make the guests comfortable, while a band discoursed popular music all the way, which intermingled pleasantly with the conversation. Several ladies were present, and their pretty costumes gave a festive appearance to the gather- ing, which looked more like a private party than an assemblage of strangers. THE WEATHER. The day was lovely, while the air at the start had some- thing of the mild freshness of morning, and was followed by unclouded sunshine. Nature had set every stitch of her bluest canvas over the majestic river, broken only by white fleecy clouds which added intensity to the luminous air into which we seemed to plunge. The shore along the banks ON THE HOOGHLY. 17 was fringed by a class of craft, half boat, half house, of that flimsy character seen only in the tropics. Quietly we dropped down the river with thoughts coloured by the joyous strains of the music. Many of the men looked tired and harassed from desk and office work ; the combi- nation, however, of tempered sunshine, delicious air, and pleasant company soon dispelled the thoughts of the counting-house, the anxiety of the mart, and the constant sense of responsibility which every business man has to encounter. A strong flavour of Scotch dialect inchned one to think that he was going up the Clyde, rather than down the Hooghly. ARGOSIES OF MAGIC SAILS. The line of ships, passing the Eden Gardens, was impo- sing ; the strong straight masts, the multiplicity of delicate spars, the deep red hulls standing high in the water, indi- cative of vessels half empty of their treasures, formed a beautiful picture. The water gurgled round the floating buoys ; the steam launches with bow erect and depressed stern shot past, panting with exertion and heedless of obstacles ; and from nearly every peak "our banner of Eng- land flew," causing pride in the bosom of each English subject. The Jainti glided over a sheet of water smooth as glass and bright as molten silver. The surroundings com- bined to impart to the holiday-makers an exhilaration of spirits which soon broke out into anecdote, reminiscence, song, dance, and a joyous sense of irresponsibility. Men opened newspapers, but paused in the act of reading, their 18 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. minds refusing to be chained to the printed record, while Nature kept turning over the pages of her photographic album. One old gentleman, whose earthly paradise seemed to consist in the possession of the knave, the ace, and the king of trumps, sat at a curd table, and found congenial companions at a game of whist. Some pretty pale-faced children played about the deck ; and all the elements of a pleasant gathering were combined on board. OBJECTS OF INTEREST. We passed by the Kidderpore Docks, Avhich looked quiet and deserted — a commercial white elephant that has cost millions, and disappointed the jDrojectors. This promising scheme has imposed a heavy charge on the shipping, and is regarded with vmdisguised contempt by the merchants. The opinion of Captain Allison, and the recent letter of Mr. Apjohn, chief-engineer and vice-chair- man of the Port Commissioners, show that the "Liner" steamers suffer from want of accommodation at the jetties, and that the construction of the Docks has in no way lessened the pressure of the import trade. From Garden Keach the shores on both sides appeared gracefully draped with foliage ; the branches danced like green flames into the blue of the atmosphere. The Bishop's College has exchanged its ecclesiastical for a social character, and is now known as the Seebpore Engineering Institute. The castellated roof, wide front, and red wings gleamed like terracotta among the trees, resembhng an English mansion of the old feudal days. Here Mr. Shaw, a sturdy Scot, ON THE HOOGHLY. Ill trains European and native youtli for the field and the workshop, infusing his own spirit into such of them as prefer the chain and the theodohte to the goose-quill and office-stool. HISTORICAL MEMORIES. The long frontage of the palace of the old King of Oudh recalled historic memories now growing thin. The once favourite place of residence is becoming unfashionable, vulgar, and unhealthy. By the edge of the Botanical Gardens the current flows fast and strong, revealing the treacherous character of the river, the bed of which is constantly shifting and upheaving, causing serious damage to shipping. I am informed that the pilots of the Hooghly form an able body of seamen, and that they are recruited from men of talent and culture ; they hold a proud and prominent position among the mercantile marine. There is some splendid wood in the Botanical Gardens close by ; the topes of lofty palms are seen from the river. The stream expands perceptibly, and the low shores recede as we advance. Nature is a great enchantress if we let her appeal to our hearts. What sane man would trouble himself about the future, when only to breathe the warm elastic air is a kind of physical pleasure, and to look into the dense blue desert of air a dream ? Here was a scene on which Winter never stamped his frozen image, never disrobed the wood of its leaves, or sky of its delicate drapery. Time, the blast of the cyclone sometimes rages over it, dealing destruc- tion in a lordly manner, but the icy breath of Winter, mth 20 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. his mean fogs and ruthless destruction of colour, never violates the body of the majestic Hooghly. LANDMARKS. On we swept, past tht Acra Government brickfields, obelisks, floating buoys, and other sign-posts to avoid destruction, until we faced Melancholy Point, which derives its name from a terrible catastrophe which occurred there a hundred years ago. A flock of vultures were perched on the spot — grim attendants of Death, Now we pass the Empress of India Mills, and Fort Gloster ; then those of Bowreah and Budge-Budge. Old Honeymoon House was pointed out, the scene of amorous festivities, which the famous old judge. Sir Barnes Peacock, occupied. His memory is still treasured for his sturdy independence. A man who had the ability and force of character to rise, in the old days of monopoly and patronage, from the position of a clerk to be Chief Justice of the High Court, must be worth honouring. Diamond Harbour presents no striking feature, beyond a vast expanse of water, low-lying banks and an aspect of iinqualified solitude. THE FUTORE. When will English capitalists wake to the fact that it is wiser to line the shores of the Hooghly with mills and factories and get all their work done here, where labour is cheap and opportunities numerous, than in propping up the dying concerns of Dundee and Lancashire ? With a line of rails from Rangoon to the borders of China, a magnificent ON THE BOOGBLY. 21 market might be opened, which would make France green Avith jealousy, and fill the pockets of our traders to over- flowing. At present from Bhamo, the most nortliern town in Burmah, goods have to be conveyed on the backs of pack mules at a charge of 525 rupees a ton, which makes the price of woollens and cottons prohibitive on the borders of China. If England does not step in, France will command the whole trade of southern China. CREATURE COMFORTS. About 2 o'clock the party sat down to tiffin. Three tables were full, but we could have accommodated more. There was abundance of everything to tempt the palate : roast fowl, Yorkshire ham, game pie, cheese, pastry, and ice drinks, and some square bottles which did not, I was assured, contain Croft's "Three Elephant Blend." There was not one drawback to our enjoyment. !No waiting or confusion, and everything went off as merry as a marriage bell. A gentleman present voiced the feelings of the company in acknowledging the completeness of the excellent arrangements that had been made. Such short trips meet the needs of many who cannot absent themselves for any length of time from their business, and are far more health- ful than a week's freezing on the icy peaks of Darjeeling, in houses where the fireplaces are a fraud and a delusion, and where the exorbitant charges make the mountain-retreat prohibitive to all except those with a big purse. On the homeward journey the attention of the company was diverted from scenery to sociability. There was no lack 22 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. ^^l material, for many of the gentlemen possessed both liistrionic and vocal powers which caused much mirth and good-fellowship. In dropping down the river some of us felt that we had also dropped several years which Time had strapped on our backs, and '^^he sight of some young couples waltzing on the deck brought back the glamour of the past. THE CLOSE OF THE DAY. As we neared home the cloud effects on the western sky were simply dazzling in their variety and grandeur. The white banks of silvery floss caught a ruby tinge as they floated over a background of old gold barred with rich crimson lines, while the glimpses of the sky beyond showed the purest cobalt. The divinity whom the Incas adored sank tired behind a canopy of the richest drapery, diaph- anous as the veil of a bride, and no more to be reproduced by the brush of a Claude or a Turner than by the broom of a house sweeper. And so one happy day seemed to have glided by, to the limbo of the mysterious past, like a flower on the water. CHAPTER III. THE INDIAN MUSEUM. Among the many institutions founded by the British Raj in this Land of Regrets, there is none of greater im- portance than that now located in the palatial structure on the Chowringhee Road. The Museum was created by Sir William Jones in the last century, and was taken over by the Government in 1867. The Board of Works are responsible for the structure and the new wings now being added. Whatever the building cost, it is worthy of the valuable treasure hived up within its walls, and forms a splendid addition to the palaces which adorn the city. THE KING OF THE ESTABLISHMENT. The director of this princely institute is the famous and learned Dr. Watt. Of his scholarship little need be said ; his works speak for him. If any one cherishes a conceit about his own acquaintance with plant life, let him turn to the Dictionary of Economic Products, and a casual glance at this huge testimony of labour, knowledge, and industry will empty him clean of that conceit as quickly as a shell hurries from the muzzle of a mortar. The mind reels 24 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. before the mass of knowledge compiled in its pages and set forth in so clear and readable a manner. And yet little practical use has been made of this knowledge in the country which most needs it. Agriculture, manufactures from indigenous products, rhining, and industry are all in their infancy in India. Very few of the modern improve- ments have been either accepted or put into operation, while Dr. Watt and many agricultural experts are crying like John the Baptist in the wilderness. THE MUSEUM SPECIALITY. Unlike the British, the Indian Museum aims at being an active and integral force in the life of the people, and not a mere collection of curios, archaeological and antiquarian. In seeking to penetrate this vast hive and collection of strange treasures, I sought the queen bee of the establish- ment, around whom the work centres, and after mounting as many steps as may have gone to make up Jacob's famous ladder, I found this creature, a masculine entity, at the top of the building, in the person of Mr. T. N. Mukherji, F. L. S. The bee is a little dried-up man, closely buttoned in an eri silk coat. The drying process seems to have taken place inwardly as well as outwardly, and has added additional brilliancy to his eyes and further energy to his body. A casual visitor travelling through the bazaars might think the ordinary Indian, apathetic, and so he is. There are, however, brilliant exceptions. Mr. Mukherji is one of them. He is as energetic as two Englishmen, and a Frenchman thrown in. The Museum bee has travelled THE INDIAN MUSEUM. 25 in Europe, been presented to the best people, pushed his sharp nose into every doghole of art and industry, written a very readable account of his travels, and, in fact, is as active and nimble as one of his own silkworms, a subject in which he takes a keen delight. THE WORKING ROOM. There was nothing luxurious in his study. A couple of bookcases crammed witli blue-books, two tables loaded with papers, a few chairs, and a large writing-desk constituted the furniture, while the floor was littered with official documents. " You seem to have a large correspondence," I remarked, taking the chair offered to me. " Yes, we get letters from all quarters on all Idnds of subjects," he answered, jumping nimbly from his chair, and picking up a file on the floor containing recent despatches. His movements reminded me of Mr. Gladstone in the Hawarden Library. The old parliamentary hand would pounce on a blue-book in the middle of a conversation to illustrate the subject with the same jerky alertness. I examined the letter handed to me, and found that it came from a Swiss merchant, inquiring for a vegetable substance to be used as braid for fancy hats. " What answer have you given him ?" I asked, wonder- ing how a merchant in Switzerland could have thought of the Calcutta Museum. " We are testing several vegetable products, and have not yet arrived at what is wanted. It is well worth our 26 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. ■while, for about sixty lakhs of material for this is annually consumed. If successful, a great industry will be founded." " How have they come to refer to you ?" I asked. " The merchants generally apply to the Imperial Institute, that founded by the Prince of Wales," explained Mr. Mukherji, " and the authorities there send a requisition to the Indian Museum." " Your correspondence is varied," I hazarded, glancing at the heap of letters. " Here is another from Canada on the subject of mica. Canadian mica is now largely used in England, but our Indian product is of better quality." He took from the drawer of his writing-table some sheets of this beautiful transparent and translucent mineral, resembling sheets of glass. The Indian had a beautiful ruby colour which the Canadian specimen lacked. " How do you get your samples, I mean the various products you have in your cases ?" I inquired. " All manufacturers send us specimens. We don't buy much. Occasionally when we hear that a native workman possesses some handicraft secret that is likely to die with him, we spend a little. We send him pupils, and try to preserve the secret. Many of the old secrets of the weaver, potter, and medicine dealer have died out. They are very reluctant to part with their knowledge. The supply of cheap goods has almost killed the old high art which the native possessed. It is not worth his while to labour when lihe demand has fallen off." THE INDIAN MUSEUM, 27 INDIAN INDUSTRIAL CONFERENCE, Mr, Mukherji said this sadly, for he is one of tlie few Indian gentlemen whose heart throbs with patriotic feeling, and he bitterly mourns the apathy aud want of enterprise in his countrymen. He had to resign his conneciion with the Indian Industrial Conference, as the members failed to pay their subscriptions and declined to do anything to forward the scheme. Since then he has been trying on his own account to spread a knowledge of the silkworm. He gives the seed free, with instructions, only making a small charge to cover expenses. In this he is greatly assisted by the Directors of Public Instruction in many of the Provinces. " Is this silk scheme likely to take ?" I asked with hesitation, for I now despair of rousing the Indians to any interest in their country. My enthusiasm is pumped dry, "I think so," was the reply, "The industry is not costly, poor people can take it up. I have found that the worm will thrive on the leaves of the castor-oil plant, which grows in abundance. The people use only the seed for oil ; the leaves are thrown away, I have found a use for these leaves, which even the cattle won't touch. Since I have explained it, applications for seed are coming in from all parts of the country." Mr. Mukherji has only a tepid interest in political history, especially when it clashes with his particular hobby. "Fancy,'' he remarked, "teaching boys all about Cromwell, who is dead, and not making the silkworm an object lesson in the schools — a creature that is alive, and wlvose 28 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. industry would put bread in their mouths, and money in their pockets !" 1 gravely admitted that the Protector was dead, and, yielding to the persuasive eloquence of the Museum authority, conceded further, with certain mental reservation, that a live worm was better than a dead statesman. "Why don't you write about this, and get practical knowledge introduced in the schools ?" he suggested. "The Bengalee does not take kindly to my advice," I answered. "You know the old saying of taking an un- willing horse to the water. But may I ask what is that mysterious compound I see in those bottles ?" 1 asked, achelor, face close-shaved, red, and nose slightly pur})le : THE MUNICIPAL MARKET. lb this, as everybody know^:, is caused by early rising and ciosrecioas stones found at about £15,000 to 20,000 annually. THE MOST VALUABLE. The ruby is of most value, and has at times secured the liighest prices. Rejecting as a traveller's tale the assertion of Marco Polo, that lie saw a Ceylon ruby the size of a CEYLON AND ITS GEMS 79 luna'a aria, it may be iateresting to recall 'what is related of aaubher Ceylon ruby, in connection with the part played uawittingly, in the rise of a family that was of note in a subsequent period in the history of the Dutch Republic. A "Chetty" physician became the owner of a large ruby, said to have been the size of a small curry-stuff grinding stotie. Cutting it into pieces, and retaining the larger poi'tions, he presented the Dutch Governor of Colombo, Lmhoff, with eighteen buttons set with the smaller pieces. Imhoff, not unmindful of gratitude, promptly exalted the donor to the proud position of first Malabar Mudalyar of the Gate, a title of honour still retained, and about equi- valent to a Lord Lieutenancy of a county in England. This rise in rank, however, stirred into restless action the dormant •atergies of the Chetty. The Governor was at last glad to get rid of iiis protege by transforming him into a dignitary learned in tlte law, and presenting him with a seat as (Fudge rtf the Supreme Court in Java. This gentleman was grandfather to Dr. Quint Ondaatjee, alluded to in AlUson's "Historjof Europe," as the "Great Democratic Leader," of hx9 day. Whatever, might have been the value attached to the Ceylon rubies in the past or the present, it should be noted that really valuable ones have always been scarce, and they cannot vie in comparison with some Burmese specimens. Two of the latter were sent to London in 1875, ;^7 and 47 1-16 carats. These were reduced after recuttinsr to 32 5-1$ and 39 9-16 carats, respectively, and the former of them was sold for £10,000. What become of them esfentually it would be interesting to ascertain, as possibly 80 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. no single regalia in Europe contains two such fine rubies. Originally they belonged to the King of Burmah, but impec- uniosity and the chronic state of " hard-up-edness" prevail- ing at that court led to their disposal. This was not an easy matter to achieve, for the people were proud of their possession, and resented tlie idea of their being sent out of the country. Strategy and military force were brought into play, and with a strong guard and amidst intenst- excitement they were conveyed to the vessel that Avas fc bear them away to their destination. THE SAPPHIRE. In Ceylon, while really valuable rubies are rare, and sapphires common, the converse prevails in Burma. StilL of the sapphires a few splendid specimens have been- unearthed, and mention might be made of one in the collection that was sent by the Colony to the Paris Exhi- bition in 1855, which was valued at £5,000. Notwith- standing the hardness of its nature, the sapphire can be beautifully engraved, and in the Cabinet of Strossi in Rome, may be seen one, with profile of Hercules, the work of Ceueius, The cat's-eye, too, is occasionally of some value, as instance, the one that was in the collection of the last King of Kandy, which sold in London in 1820 for more than £400. This specimen measured two inches in diameter. Though tradition speaks of the " Mookarg" as the pioneers of the gemming industry in Ceylon, it is silent as to their methods of work. How far it resembled the CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 81 practice adopted by the natives at the present time, of which an account is here furnished, cannot be known. The sites selected for prospecting are cither the beds of streams or the dry Land in their vicinity, and as thegemmer needs but few appliances, he is not handicapped by much initial outlay. These appliances consist of a few crowbars, a mamotee, a long iron sounding rod, "Illankoora," and a close basket made of split bamboo reeds. METHOD OF WORK. Thus ecjuipped, the gemmer, if the site selected is the bed of a stream, commences operations in the dry season (December to March), when the water is low and sluggish. He first clears the sand away, and from time to time uses the sounding rod to see whether the gravel or "illan," hence the name of the rod, is accessible. In getting to this "illan," the matrix in which the gems are found, his efforts are sometimes retarded by impediments in the form of blocks of rock, and invariably by a sort of crust, called, " Cabooa " which has to be penetrated, as it is commonly under this crust that the " illan" lies. On reaching this stage, and wlien the gravel is exposed, the coolies, who liave hitherto been assisting the gemmers, are promptly sent away, as none but the initiated and those vitally interested in the success of tlie undertaking, are allowed to be present at the further development of the search. The gravd is now scooped out by means of the mamotees, and is deposited in the wicker basket, held under water with the feet. The basket thus secured, the " illan" in it 82 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. is rotated with a quick motion, by which means the clay is dissolved and the lighter particles of stone, and, from time to time, the larger ones, if after due inspection they are worthless, are thrown cut. The whole is thus reduced to what is termed " nabooa," a thin heavy sand, mostly composed of particles of precious stones, which on careful scrutiny are secured. Much similar to this is the process when the site for search is on dry land near a stream, the season for work being the same. Here the earth is removed to the level of the water, and when it becomes soft, the sounding rod is brought into requisition. So deftly is this used in the liands of an experienced worker, that he is seldom misled as to whether the " illan" is within practicable depth. The result being satisfactory, an anxious moment ensues, for the gemmer has to guard, with redoubled vigour, against an influx of water. The soft sand being removed, the "illan" is readily come upon, should there be no "cabooa" to break through, and, by means of the crowbar, it is detached and heaped up for washing, either in the pit itself, if there is not much water in it, or in the adjacent shallow stream. To facilitate labour, the whole of the pit is not gemmed at once. Only one-half of the earth is removed, a flight of steps being constructed in the other half to expedite the removal of the earth and the baling out of the water. This half being exhausted, room is afforded for the earth on its removal from th'e remaining half, which is then in its turn operated on. The " illan" on *bcing heaped up undergoes the process already described. CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 83 A DOUliTFUL INDUSTIIV, Simple and primitive as the process of gemming /appears, it is in the majority of instances disappointing in tlie extreme, when the tangible benefits derived are compared with the great amount of labour involved. The sites and directions in which gems are imbedded are very •uncertain and quite unknown, and though in some cases pits are workable in a few days, in others, days, months, and sometimes years, elapse before the matrix which contains the pi'ecious stones is discovered. But the reward of toil may not be here, for the matrix may not yield a sufficiency of gems, even of the smallest value, to show a profit or even to cover the expenses. From enquiries the writer has instituted, it may be taken as substantiated, that of every ten pits sunk only one is found to pay. That not- withstanding these facts, the industry should have been engaged in by the poorer class of natives, shows how hard a struggle for life they have to encounter. During the reign of the Kandyan Kings, caste prevailed and was rigidly observed, once a barber always a barber, was the rule ; the inhabitants of certain villages were exclusively devoted to gemming. A body of hereditary gem men, with two headmen, also hereditary, to superintend the establish- ment, was thus formed. This practice died out on the advent of the British Government, and the gemming industry became open to all sorts and conditions of men. A CRUEL LAW. For the past fifty years, the industry has been pursued by & number of poor people whose sole bubsistence depended' 84 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. on tins precarious industry. Others agcain, mostly agricul- turists, resorted to gemming to eke out what the cultivation of " paddy" did not always afford them, so as to save themselves from absolute starvation. While thus affording relief, a system of joint-stock on a small scale, between expert gemmers and landowners, introducing speculation, gradually crept in. In course of time the attention of European speculators, forming themselves into companies, was drawn to it, leading to the investment of larger capital. Up to the time of the formation of these companies, the natives were unrestricted in their efforts at gemming, the only places they were not allowed to exploit without licenses being Crown waste lands. The advent of European capital caused the Government to step in, in the early part of last year, with the enactment of an ordinance, that with one fell swoop did away with all the privileges hitherto enjoyed by the indigenous population. The features of this ordinance may be briefly summarised. It enacts that a fee of Rs. 5 is payable, a license for every pit opened, in whatever localit.//, the number of men employed on each pit being fixed, for each of whom a sum of 75 cents, or 12 annas, for a term of three months is charged. The specially hard feature lies here, if the number of persons when the license is issued should be 26, and then more happen to be added, the license can be cancelled by Govern- ment, and each extra man so employed fined Rs. 50, or in default undergo six months' imprisonment. This is a most unreasonable clause and its execution has •had the effect of preventing the poor people to the number CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 85 of 20,000 from in any way devoting their attention to gemming. It not unfrequcntly happens that with a sndden influx of water into the jtit an increased strength of hibour is absolutely necessary for baling purposes, if all the efforts already put forth are not to be frustrated. As has been shown, any excess of labour involves a heavy penalty, un- less it has been duly applied for and a fresh license obtained, a matter involving a delay of, say, four days, if not more, as a number of formalities have to be undergone, including tlie drawing up of a report as to the altered circumstances of the pit, by the village headman, an unpaid native official. The ordinance appears to have been drafted on the assumption that the Crown, as successors to the Kand\'an Kings, has a prerogative right to gems, even on prirate lands. That such a right was ever exercised liy those sovereigns is doubtful, and is not clearly established. The claim now made has been lost sight of for years, and is only lately put forward. But not content with these rights, the Government goes further and seeks to establish similar claim on lauds which it itself previously sold expressly as gem lands for high and fancy prices. These lands were sold outright to the present owners, and that they should be called upon to render to Government a share of the gems found is opposed to every sense of morality. Another objection to the ordinance, and a potent one too, as it involves a clear breach of faith, is that the tax is enforced on lands belonging to Buddliist temples, and oa 4he villages of Kandyan Chiefs, who assisted the British 86 INDIA N SKE TCHES A ND RA MBL ES. power iu taking the Kandyan province, whereas by law these lands were declared free of all tax. That the ordinance is felt as an extreme hardship by the people, leading them to transmit a temperately worded memorial to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, detail- ing their grievances, is not to be wondered at, and sympathy cannot be withheld from them in their attempts to gain redress. The ordinance as it stands has practically killed the native industry, and leaves it for the present in the hands of the European speculators who have come on the scene. The raison d'etre of it really appears to be, that if capital can be invested freely by foreigners, there must l)e something enormous to be made out of the industry, and so the Government thinks fit to have a share. But the question remains to be solved whether the introduction of European capital, aided by the most improved appliances and the latest methods for working gem mines, will develop it into a remunerative business. There is nothing in th& past to warrant such a belief, and when it is remembered that gemming has been openly carried on for years, and immediately under the eye of shrewd British business men,. its success, handicapped as it is by an initial tax of 10 per cent, under the newer auspices, is, to say the least, highly problematic. THE MOUNTAIN QUARRY. Ratnapura and Rakwana are the places where the best gems are found, though along the road I remarked several excavations where gemming had been conducted. Some- CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 87 very pretty moonstones were shown me, which however were of little value. From ralmadula to Rakwana is a distance of sixteen miles up among mountains. At one side is a deep valley heavily timbered and matted with luxuriant creepers. I noticed some curious orchids, with strange pendulous flowers, lianging from the angles of branches : there stems were covered witli fungi of the most gaudy colours — bright red, yellow, and purple. The scarlet shoots of the iron wood tree seemed like flowers in their blood-red hue. Part of the hill side was literally a blaze of crimson, looking as if the wood was strewn with Vermillion. This jungle abounds witli game, wild boar, elk, red deer, black faced monkeys ; and the whir of copper Avings indicated flocks of parroquets without number. Rakwana is a mining village, consisting of one long street,, looking absurdly small owing to the presence of some mas- sive iron wood trees and tall palms which dwarf the little huts at their base. No more than 250 families reside here under the shadow of a big brown mountain with huge irregular spurs. Down the side of this mountain trickled a stream which fell over a rough bed of stones in a succession of small cataracts, until it got down to the valley when it slipped along in a placid stream. The river looked like a frayed string of braid lacing the side of the huge mountain. One side of the hill was covered with matted jungle and the other placed under cultivation. The view higher up among the gleng was very fine. The twin wooden shanty of the planter stood out on the hill side, while the green tufts of tea hardly showed on the red brown earth. Down in the ■ 88 lAWTAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. vallej', the hills appeared like miniature hay cocks, under nu amethyst sky of the loveliest hue. The beauty of this scene viewed from the glen where the mining operations take place was lovely, and pathetic in its loveliness. The plaintive note of a bulbul, who is supposed to have a pas- sion for the rose and regrets seeing it plucked, communi- cated a feeling of sadness to my mind as I looked down from those lofty peaks on the distant plains. A finer view than the one before me I never beheld. The miners are an improvident lot. Tunnel-diggers get an average of Rs. 2 and a half a day, I had a talk with Mr. Bradley, the Superintendent of the Ceylon Gem Company, and was courteously led round the pits by Mr. W. H. vSmart, his assistant, a pleasant and highly informed gentleman. Gemming in Ceylon does not seem a profitable speculation. It is hardly worth while investing money in such a lottery concern. CHAPTER XII. THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. The fishing grounds are reached by steamer from Colombo, wliich conveys the visitor to the northern parts of the island. All the luxuriant foliage, the leafy lanes, the wonderful growth of palms, creepers and gorgeous llowers are left behind. The home of the pearl oyster is off a flat low-lying coast of barren sand. For miles inward towards tlie interior, the country is sterile and repulsive ; the only wood that thrives here are the umbrella plant, the cruel prickly buffalo thorn, and the monstrous " boabab" tree, whose short-stunted groAvth and ragged branches can with- stand the strong gusts of wind which sweep over the desolate sand. This tree was mysteriously imported from the West Coast of Africa in distant days — a huge shape- less mass of wood from twenty to thirty feet in circumference, and very little more in height. The long sweep of desolate shore has a dreary appearance, and seems a fitting abode for great crabs, tortoises, and snakes. On those sands, where the sea-turtle basks in peace, and the solitude is only broken by tiie wild cry of the seafowl, crowds assemble as soon as the pearl fisheries begin, and the dreary waste becomes enlivened by numbers who congregate from the most 90 INDIAN SKETCHES AA'D RAMBLES. distant parts of India. The shore is raised in many parts to the height of several feet, by enormous mounds of shell, the accumulation of ages. Here millions of oyster shells, robbed of their pearls, have been year after year flung into heaps that extend a distance of miles. These heaps shining bright on the beach adONE. The divers are mostly Moormen and Tamils, with a few Arabs from the Persian Gulf, a brave hardy race of men, of a speculative turn, who betake themselves year after year to this hazardous occupation. They usually come in common lighters, eight or ten tons in burden, such as commonly convey cargo to ships, using both sails and oars ; each boat lias a complement generally of twenty-one men, with five diving stones for ten divers. The usual equipment is very simple ; a'.i open scaffolding to eacli boat from which the tackle is suspended, and pine-shaped stones of coarse granite, from 30 to 50 tbs. in weiglit, with a loop attached to each for receiving the foot ; some divers use half-moon stones to bind round their waists that the feet may be free. The diver is also provided with a small basket, or bag, woven like a net, which he takes down to the bottom and fills with the oysters as he collects them ; the rope is attached to his body, the end of which is held by the men in the boat. This rope he jerks when he wishes to be drawn, up. While five divers are coming up, five are preparing to go down. When the diver reaches the bottom, he throws himself on his face and collects all he can. If the bank is rich, about 150 oysters can be taken in each dip ; if, however, the oysters are scattered, not more than five to ten. The Arab can remain submerged for about ninety seconds, Avhile the Moor or Tamil rarely' exceeds seventy seconds. The former wears a nose compressor but the others scorn the use of any such help. The THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 93 diving generally begins at sunrise, and continues till the sea breezes or west winds set in. The liours of work do not exceed six. The men enjoy the labour as a pleasant pas- time, and never murmur or complain. The noise of going down from tlie several boats contiimes without interruption. From a little distance it resembles the dashing of a cataract. OUT TO THE BANKS. When the day advances and sea breezes set in, the signal is made for the boats to set sail for the shore. It is a lovely sight to witness a flotilla of about 200 boats, with white sails set to catch the breeze, lightly skimming the blue waters in the dazzling sunlight. The oyster banks are some distance from the shore. As soon as the keels touch the sand, eager inquiries are made from all sides as to the results of the day's fishing. The fishing grounds are marked by buoys over the spots, ornamented with flags of different colours, giving the waters the festive appearance of a regatta. In the olden times the Governor visited the scene accompanied by a military guard armed to the teeth, to resist any raid from the Kandyan Cliiefs bent on plunder. The beach from Candatchy Bay to the old fortress of Areppo is very convenient for boats, the water being dee[) close to the beach, and not agitated by any surf. When the signal for work is given at early dawn, the noise and shouts from those embarking is deafening in its chimour. Strange prayers are ^recited, hasty ablutions performed, and the solemn pall of night is pierced with a conglomerate shout of voices, which to European ears make a din, 94 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. strange and unearthly. The clivers are a superstitious dass given to charms and extraordinary ceremonies. No diver will go under water till the shark conjurer has per- formed his incantations. Once the Government had to keep two of these functionaries in its pay, to remove the fear of the divers from their enemies, the sharks. The conjurer is stripped naked and shut up in a room, where he mutters his spells in secret from the time of sailing until the boats return. While this is going on, the natives believe that the sharks cannot open their mouths. The water of Ceylon abound with these remorseless pirates of the deep. Yet strange to say that the number of accidents in the fishing grounds are very few. If a shark is seen, the divers make a signal, when all the boats return ; it is not often, however, this occurs, for, whether it may be the charm or the multitudes or the noise, few of these monsters approach the scene during the diving operations. While at work, no food is taken by the divers according to the instructions of the magician, else the charm for their protection is broken. They are, however, allowed unlimited privileges in drink. This permission is rarely abused by the divers, who are for the most part abstemious men. THE SHELLS. On reaching the shore the boats are made fast, while the oysters are carried on the heads of boatmen to the " Kottus" or palisade enclosures on the sand, wiiere thej' are thrown into heaps. Some boats laud as many as 30,000, while others onlv five or six hundred. When all the shells THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 95 are landed under the careful eyes of the overseers, the whole is divided into heaps, two-thirds going to the Govern- ment, and one-third to tlie divers. The diving operations of the present year have proved a great success, exceeding the expectations of the ofificial inspector. It was estimated that about 10,000,000 oysters could be available, whereas the actual number fished has reached 37,810,552, the Government share of which has realised lis. 8,27,081, at an average price of Rs. 32-14 per thousand. The highest ])rice obtained has been Rs. 50, and the lowest Rs. 28. The largest number of boats out on any one day has been 206, and the lowest 35. A further Rs. 1,00,000 should be realised by the Government, if the monsoon will only hold off, as the banks are not nearly exhausted. This is, the largest sum that the fisheries have ever yielded, and is all -clear gain to the revenue. I notice from the official state- ment showing the estimated revenue and expenditure for the year 1891, that the Pearl Fisheries yielded only Rs. 500 ! At the close of last year's operations, it was authoritatively disserted that there could be no operations this year, and the estimate of 10,000,000 oysters above alluded to was only an afterthought. Surely, the Government can be better served in a matter of this sort, by having the banks more carefully surveyed by a competent official. Oysters do not form pearls in the space of a day or two. It is to be hoped that all the other estimated figures of the Budget will not fehrink in the same mysterious way. There is a great deal of romance about the way public money is dis- posed of in the East. But no matter. 96 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. The representative of the Government promptly holds an auction duly summoned by tom-tom, when its share of oysters in lots of 1,000 each are put up for sale, being knocked down to the highest bidder. The brokers, jewellers, and merchants who congregate bid and outbid each other in the most lively manner. About the same time a great fair is held, at which articles of all description from India and elsewhere are sold. A great number of beggars, cripples, and falceers find their way here. I noticed one of the latter who was doing penance, for which he wore rouud his neck a gridiron about a foot and a half long. I was told this strange ornament was not removed while either eating or sleeping. There were other loathsome practices exhibited, too filthy to chronicle. The greatest care was taken to prevent theft. Yet I was informed that pearls are dex- terously removed from the shells by means of a stiff pieci' of brass or bramble. THE ORIGIJf OF THE PEARL. The natives think that the pearl is formed from the dew in connection with the sunbeams when the oyster comes to the surface to catch the drops of rain. Some think the pearls are formed as a defence against interior worms, while others state authoritatively that it is the effect of disease. I find it is easier to criticise their speculations than to substitute a more rational theory, which I leave to tlic reader. Between one hundred and two hundred pearls liave been found in a single oyster, while sometimes a hundred may be opened without finding any. The yellow or gold THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 97 coloured pearl is most prized by the natives. The largest I saw was about the size of a small pistol bullet ; spotted pearls are cheap. For a long time it was supposed that the pearl oyster was anchored to a certain place, and that the crustacean was incapable of locomotion. More recent researches prove that it can detach itself from its moorings and fix its byssus at pleasure, to prevent being carried away by the current. According to the statement of one naturalist, an oyster was seen taking a walk round tlie inside of a " chattie" and mounting the glass side of a vivarium. Tliey are supposed to change their places a dozen times in a month. x\n oyster reaches maturity in its sixth year, and in its ovaria there are reckoned to be about twelve million eggs. Owing to its many enemies it is hardly necessary to add that few of these millions arrive at a mature condition. This curious family of Crustacea are so human as to be gregarious in their habits, while they are addicted to night walking, not however, to be regarded as an aspersion on their character like that of the human biped, but solely on account of their enemies, darkness being their best protection. The pearl oyster is, on the whole, a hardy creature, capable of living in brackish water, inclined to leave its moorings if tlie water gets agitated and disgusted with the conduct of crabs and shrimps, who nibble at its byssus and compel emigration. Tlie shape of this strange creature ciJrrying so valuable a treasure is that of an im- perfect oval, while the inside of its shell resembles a silver palace more beautiful than the pearl itself. VII CHAPTER XIII. CAWNPORE. The differenc3 between reading and travelling is that in the former you have to hunt for ideas, while in the latter they come to you without trouble. It does not require a heaven-born genius to jot down what comes under one's eyes, though it does require both labour and expense to acquire the knowledge sought for ; besides, in India, people do not value tlie advantages of publicity, and consequently exhibit much indifference in furnishing information. I have encountered this difficulty at the outset of my travels and feel it my duty to state it. THE CITY OF KRISHNA is reached from Calcutta by a long journey rapidly spanned by the mail-train. The voyage to St. Petersburg is not more dreary. The vast smoky plains, almost treeless, the white burnt-up grass, tlie baked mud walk of a few wretched Indian villages and over all, and above all, the relentless glare of the sun, deprives the journey of any CA WNrORE. 99 special interest. The Forest Department of India ruiglit •ameliorate this by planting more trees in those Avild sad spaces ; for tliey would afford slielter to cattle and encou- rage the fall of rain. Tliere are several sandy plains in Denmark, and the soil in Germanj' is far from uniform ; the addition of trees, however, has done much to coun- teract this sterility, which is so apparent in India. From Allahabad to Cawnpore, the land becomes more wooded, while the dust also increases, penetrating the nostrils with a sharp pungent smell the reverse of agreeable. The E. I. Eailway is well managed, the carriages comfortable, and the officials courteous and obliging. One of the most agreeable features of the journey is the refreshment- rooms provided by Messrs. Kellner and Co. Never has a cup of tea tasted so well as when the throat is parched with thirst and the whole human gear set out of tune l^y heat, noise, glare, and inevitable confusion. THE TOWX lias absolutely nothing to recommend it in the shape of architectural effects. There are the same old crazy wigwam buildings of mud and wattle, filth bearable, filth unbearal)k', picturesque poverty, and squalid misery. The grain nuarkct out of the long dreary street, with the cumbrous native carts carrying a heavy beam outside the wheels to keep them from running off, is primitive to a degree. IsToah might hav5 trundled his dusky daughters to market in such a concern. There is an entire absence of brightness and alacrity even in their money dealings. Still, I am informed 100 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES. that a good deal of trade is conducted in tliis old world city. Cawnpore is the railway junction between the East Indian, the Indian Midland, the Oudh and Rohilkhund, and the Bombay and Baroda Railways. This benefits the mills rather than the trade in raw materials, as through rates from the rocidside stations to the ports have to a large extent tended to divert the latter. The town is becoming a sort of Oriental Manchester ; there are already about forty chimneys belching smoke into the dusty air. What it will be in the course of years may be surmised. The feature that strikes a stranger most is the prodigality of open spaces ; a bank, a club, or a church has a compound like a small estate. I believe the military cantonment covers an area of four or five square miles, while every attempted industry straggles and sprawls to an endless extent. THE RIVER. The Ganges, after all these hundred years running to the sea, has not made up its mind as to its course : it seems to delight in breaking fresh ground and leaving on its old bed mounds of white sand, wliile it slips on in a new line whenever it gets the chance. Still, it is a noble river, and one that commands respect. Standing at the Suttee Chowra- ghat, near the old fisherman's temple, where Wheeler's force was destroyed by the treacherous Nana Saheb, during the sad days of the Mutiny, a splendid view is obta'ined. My mind was far away on a mental journey, while Morgan, my eral education ; like looking into a great telescope, the petty world around sinks into insignificance, its meanness, its jealousy, its puny discord fade into nothing. Our hearts easily mount to the Supreme, and our inarticulate longings find no vehicle in words, save those of the Litany : "We praise Thee, O God, we acknowledge Thee to be the Lord" This picture, long looked for and at last realised, will never fade from my memory. THE TOVFN. The town of Darjeeling does not deserve much notice. The houses for the most part are badly constructed, many of them of a ramshackle appearance perched on hills, unsubstantial and uncomfortable. If the great mountain monarch ever drew a long breatli or happened to sneeze, I expect they would all tumble down, like a house of cards ; the back doors of the houses manifest more vitality and frankness than the fronts. The town looks as if somebody built a whole street or two of houses of every imaginable shape, and then stirred them together with a spoon. Filthy cabins infest tiie place, roofed with sardine boxes. Some liouses have stoves, but many are only provided with a fire- place, so primitive that it might have been constructed by one of ISToah's head-strong sons on leaving the Ark. A V-shaped contrivance runs into the wall, where the wood is DARJEELING. 143 deposited ; all the heat goes up the chimney, and while seated in front of the lire, the reverse side of your body runs a risk of being frost bitten. There are a few boarding houses, while the hotels are of the usual cormorant order. I was asked from eight to twelve rupees a day for board in one of them. There are two clubs, one of the "elect" and the other a ghastly concern intended for the people. There is among the dwellers of the Hills an unmistakable aspect of aloofness so characteristic of the English. This is pressed to its last entrenchment in Darjeeling, for China has nothing to do witli crockery and the brown earthen jar has actually no place in the domestic arrangments. The dry unsympathetic official regards the natives much as a great Irish landowner looks on some gypsies who had encamped over night on his estate. PRICE OF LIVING. The shops are fairly good, and supply everything at famine prices. For a tin of tobacco 1 was asked twice its value, and for a cup of coffee and a bun I paid about four prices. Vegetables are scarce, and are mostly supplied by the villagers. There are a few bakeries, but bread is also manufactured in the jails, and the Botanical Gardens actually puts itself in rivalry with the native gardeners by supplying vegetables. Good milk can be had in bamboo bottles. There are no market gardens, no organised indus- tries or any compact orderly system of catering for tlie wants of the inhal)itant3. There is a rickety haphazard way of doing everything, which is characteristic of India. 144 INDIA N SKE TCHES A ND RA MBL ES. The slopes of the Himalayas, if properly utilised, might afford delightful homes and occupation for millions -who are starving in India. On every side are deep valleys, fir- crowned gorges, arid, as far as the eye can see, a howling waste of lonely mountains, surmounted by the snow-capped range cutting the sky in sharp jagged spurs and lines. On the road and in the villages you meet strange faces with high cheek-bones, thick depressed noses, with very little hair on their faces except a few straggling bristles at the corners of the mouth. The obliquity of their eyes is due to the puckering up of the face to avoid the glare. A fold of skin is drawn up at the corner of the eye, so that its lower margin forms an oblique line, but the line of the upper eyelid is horizontal, and the axis of the two eyes is one straight line. These people are small in stature, but strong and muscular. The women wear massive jade orna- ments in their ears and shell bracelets ; they carry heavy burdens supported by a strap resting on the forehead : a grinning good-natured set of things. Both men and women wear cloth boots gartered at the knees, thick woollen frocks, and felt hats with sides turned up. They represent numerous hill tribes, all distinctly Mongolian in appearance. The children are healthy, cheerful, placid and dirty. Some of the enterprising Calcutta firms are opening branch shops at reasonable rates, and the place is likely to advance somewhere late in the next century. SCHOOLS. There are several schools. 1 went over St. Joseph's and had a long talk with the Principal, a member of the DARJEELING. 145 Jesuit order. He proved a highly cultivated man, with wide experience. ' His views of the Indian character deeply depressed me, for I am already beginning to find out the shifty suspicious nature of tlie people. St. Joseph's is a splendid establishment, capable of accommodating a squadron of dragoons, but I regret to say the scholastic ambition does not soar above the Government cram-exami- nation. The liealthy faces of both boys and girls all over the place proves incontestably the value of Darjeeling as a nursery for young people, but its Siberian cold is far too great for the ordinary dweller on the plain. It is wasteful extravagance of parents with small means to send their children to England with the undoubted advantages which Darjeeling possesses. The place itself with the slopes and lovely valleys reaching it, may be made an earthly paradise \