DS
413
iDl77i
Ihn SKETCHE
AND RhMhi..c,a
THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES
BY
J. BOWLES DALY, LL. D.
Author of "Radical Pioneers " "Ireland in the days of Dean Siri/l,'
"Ireland in '98," "Glimpses of Irish Industries,"
" Storm Heroes," itx.
CALCUTTA:
PATRICK PRESS,
28 Convent Road.
1896.
CALCrTTA :
PRISTED AND PUBLISHED BT S. P. GHOSH,
AT THE PATRICK PRESS,
28, COXTEh-T ROAD.
I
DEDICATION.
To
H. H. The GAEKWAR of BARODA, G. C. S. I.
Sir,
The fact that jou have sent the smartest lads in j'our
schools to England, France, Germany and America to get
a sound technical and Scientific Education ; that you have
founded an Agricultural College, opened several Technical
Schools and finally made Education compulsory in your
State, places you in the front rank of Educational reformers.
You have also given a splendid example of enlightenment
and liberaUty to all Educationalists in India : to the English
Government and to all the Princes and nobles who desire
the welfare of the people, I claim the credit of having first
sounded the tocsin in this battle and unsparingly condemned
the existing system of Education, which is old-fashioned
obsolete and absolutely worthless. It withdraws the youth
of the country from the fields, the forests and the workshop,
and degrades the University by converting it into an
3G56BB;
intellectual dram shop for the manufacture of quill-driving
machines, who are lost to their country and homes, and
whose only Nirvana is a Government pension. The thou-
sands who fail, return to their homes, a useless burden to
their families, censuring the Government which encouraged
hopes which were never realised. As a true lover of India
who feels for and with the youth of the country, I dedicate
to you this book containing desultory articles, many of which
when first published excited howls of indignation from
respectable rascality and cowardly conservatism. These
however are the best evidences a man can have, that he has
said something it was time to say, I pray that your High-
ness may have a long and prosperous reign to continue the
noble work you have begun, and that the people, through
tlie length and breadth of India, may bless and honour the
foremost and most unselfish Prince in the country.
I have the honour to remain, with the profoundest
sentiments of admiration and respect
Your Highness's
Very faithful servant
The Author.
PREFACE.
Most of the articles have appeared in the Indian Press.
For permission to reproduce them, I beg to thank the
Editors of the " Times of India", the " Statesman" and
the " Bee". Some also appeared in the " Indian Daily
News" and the " Indian World", while conducted by me.
The letter of the students appeared in the " Indian Mirror".
173 Lower Circular Eoad
~~^' ^J^JlcutJaT: ~}> J. BOWLES DALY.
28rd NovembeFl896.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
The Cram System (Letters) ... ... ••■ 1
On the Hooghly ... ... ... ••« 16
The Indian Museum ... ... — ••• 23
The Fairy Tales of Science ... ... 33
The Virtue of old Shoes ... ..• ". •W
Technical Education ... ..• ... 45
Jail Labour ... ... ••• ••• ••• ^^
The Mercantile Marine ... ... ... 55
The General Hospital ... ... ... 60
The Municipal Market ... ... ... ••• 68
Ceylon and its Gems ... ... ... 77
The Pearl Fisheries of Ceylon ... ... ... 89
Cawnpore ... ... ••• ••• ^°
Delhi ... ... ... ••• ••• ^^^
Lahore ... ... ... ••• ••• m
LucKNOW ... ... ... ••• ••• 119
Agea ... ... ... ••• ••• 12'
VI
PAGE
Darjeeling ... ... ••• ••• ••• 135
An Indian Novelist ... ... ... 146
An Eastern Impresario ... ... ... 150
The Amazons of the Thames Company ... ... 154
John Chinaman, m. d. ... ... ... . ... 160
The Hidden Powers in Man ... ... 167
D'arc's Marionettes ... ... ... ... 174
Interview with Miss Lucia Harwood ... ... 188
An Interview with Mr. Maples ... ... ... 196
An Interview with the Principal, Seebpoor College 203
Outwitting the Saheb ... ... ... ... 215
CHAPTER I.
THE CRAM SYSTEM.
A BRILLIANT joumalistic friend of mine was once thrown
into prison for threatening the life of his mother-in-law.
I happened to call on him when he came out, and while
on the point of expressing my commiseration for the hard-
ship he suffered, he checked the current of my sympathy hy
saying : "It was just the experience I wanted. I have
been here and there and everywhere : up in a balloon,
down in a thieves' kitchen, gone through an earthquake,
written a book, and had the measles. I have gone through
all the appointed conditions of a modern man ; loved,
quarrelled, wrote, travelled, sinned, and repented. I only
wanted to see life from behind the bars of a prison to
complete my education." My friend made very good use
of his experience, for he wrote several articles on prison-life
and discipline, and suggested improvements which were
accepted by the Government and proved beneficial. He
attained his object, including the minor advantage of
entirely suppressing the objectionable mother-in-law. This
trivial incident proves that the world can be made wiser l)y
2 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
the disclosure of any of its members who are not prevented
by false modesty or any paltry reason from detailing their
experience. I have a tale to unfold which may lead to a
useful reform, if our rulers care to profit by the experience
of one of their least important subjects.
AX INDIAN PROFESSORSHIP.
It was with a distinct feeling of satisfaction, not unlike
that which consoled my friend of prison experience, that I
accepted the offer of the Professorship of English Literature
in the Metropolitan College, made me by the Hon'ble
Surendra Nath Bannerjee, the popular tribune and
educational broker of Bengal. Mr. Bannerjee is the
proprietor of the Ripon College, a large establishment with
several branches, and, being an experienced manager, he has
lately been entrusted with the charge of the Metropolitan
Institute, a typical Indian school and college with about
fourteen hundred students. The recent demand for edu-
cation has called into existence a large number of such
training schools, which are extensively patronised by the
youth of the town, and also those of the country, who
crowd the lanes and slums of Calcutta. The fees usually
range from six to twelve rupees a month ; but the Metro-
politan valorously offers a university education, with choice
of professors, for the ridiculous sum of three rupees all
round ! Here the cram system is conducted on entirely
commercial principles, and can be seen in all its naked de-
formity. The teaching establishments of Calcutta form a
mushroom growth of formidable character. My observa-
THE CRAM SYSTEM.
tions are strictly confined to those of the natives, among
whom a strong rivalry exists, not for the acquisition of
knowledge, but for getting "passes" and procuring fees.
The college authorities are compelled to supply the exact
kind of information the students want, and not what is most
beneficial. The natural order of affairs is inverted. In
Europe the professors set the tasks and the students learn
them ; in India the students dictate the studies and the
professors learn the lessons. If the authorities will not
supply the article of knowledge according to the taste of
the student, the latter will leave and seek another school.
Education is thus reduced to a matter of mere bargaining.
These mushroom colleges have no endowments except the
elemosynary aid bestowed by a few individuals ; they
depend for their support on the fees of the pupils.
THK REAL VALUE OP A DEGREE.
The advantages of a college education I give in its
correct order. First, it enables a youth to win good matri-
monial stakes for himself ; for in India it is the son, and
not the daughter, who is put up in the market : the m.a., the
B.A., and even the plucked b.a., possess a certain monetary
value, rising in grades. Next, the degree gratifies personal
vanity, serves as a feather in the cap ; praise to the Bengalee
Baboo is as sweet as blubber to the Esquimaux and reproof,
unpalatable to all, is simply nauseous to one who is usually
gentle, good-humoured, and of excellent temper. The Baboo
will tell a hundred fibs without compunction through mere
courtesy ; he knows that if a man signs himself "your
4 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
obedient servant," the phrase does not necessarily imply
that the writer is going to blacken your boots and he pushes
this form of politeness to its last entrenchment. If any one
cai'ries about with him in Indian Society an implicit faith
in mere verbal promises, he deserves all he gets. The
Bengalee never says "yes" or "no" distinctly to any pro-
position, for he knows the subtle spell which lies in courte-
ous delay. In the matter of diplomacy or putting off the
fulfilment of a promise he is a match for the Turk. The
third object of education is the chance of getting a post
under the Government. The smallness of the pay is no
drawback ; the post is everything, for it means authority,
and the ingenious methods of exacting indirect taxation are
known to every chuprassie in the town. I know the durwan
of a large business house whose nominal income amounts
to the sum of ^:&-15 a month. His wardrobe on taking
the post consisted of a string and two inches of cloth : he
really had nothing but his skin which he could call his
own. That man, however, is worth at present five lakhs.
My duties in the college were to teach for nineteen
hours a week. All the subjects were prescribed, and the
clerk of the establishment supplied a time-table on which
they were entered. An hour was devoted to each subject.
The students were nearly all young men, few under nine-
teen and many over twenty-three. Their conduct was
characterised by a species of independence which bordered
on insolence. My experience of student life in England,
France, and Germany presented me with no parallel. They
strode into the class-room at all hours and went out as
THE CRAM SYSTEM.
I
they liked, making noise and seriously interrupting the
work of the class, while during the lecture they held
conversations with each other which made the business of
speaking a labour. The number in the classes ranged from
one hundred and twenty to a hundred and seventy. There
was no attempt at order or discipline, and the business of
signing the roll presented the appearance of a free fight,
the clerk's voice being hardly audible.
The books for study comprised Shakespeare, Landor,
Spenser's Faerie Queene, Sir Philip Sidney's Apology for
Poetry, and Frederick Harrison's admirable Life of
Cromwell — a fine selection, but very much beyond the
comprehension of men unacquainted with the simplest
words of English. The ignorance of the students was
petrifying ; a slight glimmering of mind within just served
to render internal darkness visible ; their faces did not
express any kind of activity beyond that of perspiring.
It was my custom to read a sentence or short paragraph
out of any of the books which formed the subject of the
lecture. Then give the sense, using the simplest Saxon
words, and, having finished the explanation, before going
to the next sentence, request the students to ask questions.
The inquiries propounded revealed the qualities of their
mind and the extent of their comprehension, which was
appalling. Here is a sample — " Ulvir crimwell brought his
wife to Huntingdan : meaning of ' to ' in sin-tance explain."
The whole passage was run together without inflection,
6 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
uttered with jaws set as tight as a rat-trap, and expressed
in a villainous cacking tone which sounded like the rinsing
of a bottle. As there are no marks for pronunciation or
enunciation, the Indian students regard such accessories to
the language as beneath contempt. Macbeth, yielding to
the wicked prompting of the Weird Sisters, felt the evil
suggestions " unfix his hair and make his seated heart
knock at his ribs." The majority of the students could not
comprehend the mental embarrassment of the Thane of
"Coddore," as they called him. Macbeth wanted the throne :
nothing was easier than to cut the throat of his kinsman
when the king happened to be under his roof ? What
useless fuss did the poet make of the whole transaction !
After an exhaustive explanation, I asked whether they had
any questions, whereupon a young man of five and twenty,
who had passed the Entrance, inquired, " What's ribs ?"
The soul-stirring words of Shakespeare, the cameo-cut
sentences of Landor, the organ tones of Milton, and the
manly sentiments of Tennyson make about as much im-
pression on the Bengalee mind as the taps of an auction-
eer's hammer on a block of granite. " I can't follow you,"
said one of the students with a dazed look in his eyes, like
that of a detective trying to find a clue and thinking that
his informant was bent on deceiving him. They were con-
stantly looking for some recondite meaning which the text
did not suggest. Among the third and fourth year students
were several clever intelligent boys who showed both respect
and attention ; the rank and file, however, were wanting
entirely in foundation knowledge. To make the silk purse
THE CRAM SYSTEM.
out of this bristly raw material would task the efforts of
the wisest. The most glaring defect was the absence of
any thirst for knowledge ; they evidently regarded words
merely as a wheel-barn^w to convey thoughts, and not the
becoming dress of ideas. During the reading of the most
impassioned selection from the great dramatist, there was
'a tranquillity on their faces which resembled the stillness on
the lid of a box, while my explanation occasionally elicited
such a smile as one might conceive the antediluvians to have
indulged in while listening to the preaching of Noah.
It was, however, in discussing the early life of Crom-
well, V7ith his deep searchings of heart and stirring appeals
to God, that I perceived the spiritual poverty of these poor
boys. The hard Puritan, with his earnest prayers and deep
family affection, was a study which they entirely failed to
comprehend. They saw, however, that he opposed the
Government, murdered the king, and that his name stood
high among English worthies. On the parliamentary
struggle I have been asked several shrewd questions by the
advanced classes, which convinced me that the worst side of
the Protector's character made a deep impression on them.
IsTo doubt this will bear fruit in time, and young Bengal
will assimilate his own views from this period of history
which will afford him future guidance, though he will never
acquire the vigour or courage of the grim old Ironside.
WHAT THEY WANT.
The main idea of the student under the cram system is
to get a " pass," so he wants his information boiled down
8 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
and carefully chewed. He cares no more for the quality of
the grub given him than a young crow who clamours for
sustenance with o^^en beak. Like the bird in question, he
does not care to look for his food himself ; this he wants
the Professor to do for him. The information must be
made up in pellets which can be swallowed with as little
trouble as possible. The very words must be dictated, that
he may enter them in his note-book. The only faculty of
his mind exercised is that of memory. He objects to be
questioned, and makes answers in noises which sound like
words bitten in two and swallowed before they are half out.
That venerable divine and eminent scholar, the Rev. Father
Lafont told me that in an examination in physiology, a
student gave so complete an answer to a paper that the
examiners suspected the boy of copying. The youth was
summoned to appear before the examiners. He denied the
charge and boldly challenged them to set him then and
there any question on the subject. A question on the brain
was given him, which he answered on paper with great
accuracy. The examiners were astounded, but one of the
number tested his knowledge by calling the servant to
bring up a brain from the museum. As the man was
leaving the room to execute the order, the examiner said,
" Stop, I'll write down what I want." Instead of brain he
Avrote, " Send up a heart." When the latter was placed
before the student, he could not distinguish between a
heart and a brain ! Father Lafont deplores with me the
outrageous system of ' cram,' and considers its effect most
injurious.
THE CRAM SYSTEM.
AN UNIQUE TETITION.
On several occasions I rebuked, in mild language, the
unpunctuality and want of manners of the students, show-
ing them that book-learning was not everything, and that
the success of Englishmen was due mainly to their character
for uprightness, fidelity to engagements, and perseverance.
The advice was taken in mutinous silence, contrary to the
slavish subservience enforced by the wretched system of
' cram.' A small section of the students showed their
resentment by indicting a complaint to the manager. Mr.
Bannerjee forwarded me their petition. The following is an
extract which refers to myself : "Our respected professor,
Dr. Daly who, you know, is reputed be an accomplished
lecturer and man of wide learning, is driving us to
desperation. We cannot properly appreciate his lectures, for
they are so out of the sphere of discipline obtaining here.
So that we have to wile away the hour at some other pursuits.
For instance, if we ask him the sum and substance of a
passage, he would have some words explained and many un-
answered ; on other occasions he would not answer, and
make us silent with some sarcastic or witty criticism on
pronunciation, or such nonsense. Thus, Sir, if you be good
enough to make an inquiry into the efficiency into which he
encompasses his objects, you will be much dispirited and
degrieved. Notice, worshipful Sir, if this humble petition
of ours be not taken into the consideration of your worship-
ful presence, we shall be utterly and sadly neglected and
have to plod our weary round, some sad melancholy and
vague vision, which fact may at last turn to grinding oppres-
10 INDIA X SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
sion and great loss to our civil prospects. In fine the only
thing we beg of you is to make sifting inquiry after pro-
ceedings, and hare yourself freed from future complaints of
this nature." I will do the manager justice to say that he per-
ceives the evils of the system, but feels powerless to oppose
it. My recommendations are, that the number of subjects for
the degree be reduced, and that viva voce examinations in
English be introduced. In the Government colleges there
are a body of cultured English teachers who will make
short work of the "cram" system if the opportunity is
granted them. If this serious defect is allowed to go on un-
checked, the Government will have cause to regret it. I am
filled with admii-ation at the large and generous policy of
education granted by our rulers, and this admiration suffers
no abatement because of the defects of the system. We all
learn by mistakes. But, in the name of common sense, let
us givf these poor youths a suitable education which will
enable them to develop the trade, manufactures, and indus-
tries of the country, and check the stream of philosophers in
patent leather shoes who are proving a nuisance to them-
selves and a curse to the country.
The above letter was approved by all the leading Edu-
cationalists of Calcutta, while it raised a perfect howl of
indignation from the students who were unable to distin-
guish their friends from their enemies. The answer is a
sample of the English taught and a good specimen of the
elephantine humour with which they intend to crush the
writer whose only intention was to expose and condemn a
system frought with the very worst results.
THE CRAM SYSTEM. 11
THE RECENT ATTACK ON THE STUDENTS OF THE
METROPOLITAN INSTITUTION.
[ To the Editor of the " Indian Mirror'. ]
Sir, — The students of Dr. Daly owe a deep debt of
gratitude to him for the immense favour he has shown to
them by taking the trouble of furnishing them with au
inexhaustible fund of amusement in the shape of wholesome
advice. He is perfectly justified in denouncing, in terms
of indignation, the abominable and injurious system of
'cram.' But under the pretext of giving us advice to
avoid the "cram" system, he has, we are sorry to say,
launched into severe invectives against the behaviour
ap.d ignorance of the poor students of the Metropolitan
Institution. We think, it has not escaped the notice of
the readers that he has tried to show " the whole wealth
of his wit" in a single article in the Statesman (in its issue
of the 3rd instant).
We are really at a loss to understand, how such a
puerile, impassionate and, above all, an " Asiatic style"
has emanated from the pen of a man like Dr. Daly, whose
intellectual gifts, scholarly attainments, and, to crown all,
whose bland good nature, still command the admiration of
the world. We challenge anybody to question the scholarly
attainments of this intellectual giant. His knowledge is
of an extensive order, and of a transcendental nature.
Neither God nor man can appreciate his true worth.
He is an exceptionally fluent speaker, notwithstanding
12 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
his constaut stammering, and his constant efforts for hunt-
ing up fine phrases.
He is one of the most eminent of philosophers, not-
withstanding the fact that he forgets the very A.B.C of
his philosophy when he h,>3 to teacli the Bengali students,
before whom he becomes extremely nervous. But any one
who knows anything about Dr. Daly, knows that he is an
out-and-out disciple of Augusta Comte. His knowledge
of philosophy is luminous everywhere, excepting in the
presence of his pupils.
He is, perhaps, the greatest Uterateur of the age,
notwithstanding the fact that he gave us certain curious,
quaint and sometimes unearthly interpretations of some
of the beautiful passages of those books, which we had the
good fortune (?) to read with him. We may well designate
him as " the great literary Leviathan of the age." His
erudition is of a type which can hardly be found in man.
He can be called a great Shakespearian scholar, only
ignoring the fact that he interpreted certain passages of
Macbeth in a curious and fanciful way. This sort of
ludicrous interpretations is not due to his ignorance, but to
his unfortunate nervousness which he ever feels before the
Bengah students, and which he, with all his attempts, we
are sure, will never be able to overcome. So we see that
it is not his fault, but is Nature's fault.
We think that there is no harm in supposing that he
is also one of the greatest mathematicians of the 19th
century. Had he been born in the time of Newton, he
would have dimmed the world-wide renown of that great
THE CRAM SYSTEM. 13
man. By the by, had he been a contemporary of Newton,
then people would sm-ely have thought that it was only
from his gravity that Newton was able to deduce the Law
of Gravitation. Such a grave man was our Dr. Daly.
He in order " to be dressed in an opinion of wisdom and
gravity," will never show his " teeth in the way of smile,
though Nestor swear the jest be laughable."
Our Lanka-returned [i. e. Ceylon-returned) Professor
is a man of versatile genius. It is beyond my power to
enumerate all the qualities with which Nature has endowed
him.
Dr. Daly has published the petition of some young
students to cry them down ; but fortunately for them, they
have no reputation to lose. On the other hand, he has a
world-wide reputation ; so he should take special care that
some slang and objectionable expressions may not belie his
mighty pen. There is no doubt that he can write English
with as much purity as he can write Latin and Greek.
Dr. Daly has done the duty of a teacher by teaching us
the noble art of vituperation. It is, undoubtedly, one of
the noblest and the useful of human arts.
To those who do not love to contemplate the fall of
human greatness, I do not know a more mortifying spectacle
than to see the position to which Dr. Daly is reduced by
his savage attack upon the students, who, fools as they are,
should have been beneath his notice.
Yours, &c..
Students.
14 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
THE LAST WORD ON THE CRAM SYSTEM.
[ To the Editor of the " Statesman" . ]
Sir, — It is quite fitting that the correspondence ehcited
by my article should come to a close. I hope, however,
to be permitted a last word in reply. The surgeon who
opens an ulcer can hardly expect the patient to entertain
a superstitious love for the knife, nor can he wonder at the
screams which accompany the operation. These are natural
consequences which should cause neither surprise nor
offence. "So one who has abused me need be afraid of an
action at law, even should he declare that I murdered my
grandmother. I wish, however, to say that the gist of my
article has been ignored, and only the unimportant side-
issues noticed.
I hasten to add that there are in India, educationists
and heads of colleges as qualified and capable of dealing
with the admitted defects of the present University system
as are to be found in Europe or America. If these will
only meet in conference they can easily devise a system
better suited to the wants of the country and the character
of the Indian youths than the one now in existence. The
Government will be wise in listening to their proposals,
and, further, our rulers are imperatively called upon to
solicit advice on this momentous question. Nero fiddling
over the flames of Eome is sympathy itself compared with
the present indifference.
Cowper's disquisition on the joys of an English fireside,
is not hkely to help the Bengalee who never contemplated
THE CRAM SYSTEM. 15
a fireplace, nor the imaginary conversations of Landor, one
who never read Greek history. Such studies are about
as useful to the Indian in his chrysalis condition as a
mosquito-curtain to a rhinoceros. Reading a heap of books
is not education. It will not inspire courage, integrity,
or a high sense of duty ; but the sum of thought which
remains from it will minister to vanity, conceit, and obstruc-
tiveness. A sound education should establish a love of
knowledge, a desire for enterprise, self-control co-opera-
tion, esprit de corps, and a love of country. These are
the qualities which enable their possessor to win in the
"race which is set before him."
The system of "cram" should be abolished, and a
simpler and more elevating curriculum introduced, cal-
culated to benefit the youth of the day and save India
from becoming a vast pauper warren, mns industries, sans
manufactures, sans handicrafts. The condition of the
masses is the truest test of a country's wealth or poverty,
and judged by this standard, India is poor, a veritable land
of Stygian darkness and ignorance. To her we might fitly
apply the words of the poet :
" Fie on't ! fie !
* Tis an unweeded garden : that
Grows to seed : things rank and gross in
Nature possess it merely."
J. BOWLES DALY, ll.d.
CHAPTER II.
ON THE HOOGHLY.
On Thursday last Mr. Weldon tlie enterprising proprietor
of the Esplanade Hotel arranged a pleasant excursion
on the river. At ten o'clock a party of holiday-makers
embarked at Chandpal-ghat on board the Jainti, a steady,
commodious boat. Precaution had been taken to supply
an abundance of easy-chairs, tables, and everything to make
the guests comfortable, while a band discoursed popular
music all the way, which intermingled pleasantly with
the conversation. Several ladies were present, and their
pretty costumes gave a festive appearance to the gather-
ing, which looked more like a private party than an
assemblage of strangers.
THE WEATHER.
The day was lovely, while the air at the start had some-
thing of the mild freshness of morning, and was followed
by unclouded sunshine. Nature had set every stitch of her
bluest canvas over the majestic river, broken only by white
fleecy clouds which added intensity to the luminous air into
which we seemed to plunge. The shore along the banks
ON THE HOOGHLY. 17
was fringed by a class of craft, half boat, half house, of
that flimsy character seen only in the tropics. Quietly
we dropped down the river with thoughts coloured by the
joyous strains of the music. Many of the men looked
tired and harassed from desk and office work ; the combi-
nation, however, of tempered sunshine, delicious air, and
pleasant company soon dispelled the thoughts of the
counting-house, the anxiety of the mart, and the constant
sense of responsibility which every business man has to
encounter. A strong flavour of Scotch dialect inchned one
to think that he was going up the Clyde, rather than down
the Hooghly.
ARGOSIES OF MAGIC SAILS.
The line of ships, passing the Eden Gardens, was impo-
sing ; the strong straight masts, the multiplicity of delicate
spars, the deep red hulls standing high in the water, indi-
cative of vessels half empty of their treasures, formed a
beautiful picture. The water gurgled round the floating
buoys ; the steam launches with bow erect and depressed
stern shot past, panting with exertion and heedless of
obstacles ; and from nearly every peak "our banner of Eng-
land flew," causing pride in the bosom of each English
subject. The Jainti glided over a sheet of water smooth as
glass and bright as molten silver. The surroundings com-
bined to impart to the holiday-makers an exhilaration of
spirits which soon broke out into anecdote, reminiscence,
song, dance, and a joyous sense of irresponsibility. Men
opened newspapers, but paused in the act of reading, their
18 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
minds refusing to be chained to the printed record, while
Nature kept turning over the pages of her photographic
album. One old gentleman, whose earthly paradise seemed
to consist in the possession of the knave, the ace, and the
king of trumps, sat at a curd table, and found congenial
companions at a game of whist. Some pretty pale-faced
children played about the deck ; and all the elements of a
pleasant gathering were combined on board.
OBJECTS OF INTEREST.
We passed by the Kidderpore Docks, Avhich looked
quiet and deserted — a commercial white elephant that has
cost millions, and disappointed the jDrojectors. This
promising scheme has imposed a heavy charge on the
shipping, and is regarded with vmdisguised contempt by
the merchants. The opinion of Captain Allison, and the
recent letter of Mr. Apjohn, chief-engineer and vice-chair-
man of the Port Commissioners, show that the "Liner"
steamers suffer from want of accommodation at the jetties,
and that the construction of the Docks has in no way
lessened the pressure of the import trade. From Garden
Keach the shores on both sides appeared gracefully draped
with foliage ; the branches danced like green flames into
the blue of the atmosphere. The Bishop's College has
exchanged its ecclesiastical for a social character, and is
now known as the Seebpore Engineering Institute. The
castellated roof, wide front, and red wings gleamed like
terracotta among the trees, resembhng an English mansion
of the old feudal days. Here Mr. Shaw, a sturdy Scot,
ON THE HOOGHLY. Ill
trains European and native youtli for the field and the
workshop, infusing his own spirit into such of them as
prefer the chain and the theodohte to the goose-quill and
office-stool.
HISTORICAL MEMORIES.
The long frontage of the palace of the old King of
Oudh recalled historic memories now growing thin. The
once favourite place of residence is becoming unfashionable,
vulgar, and unhealthy. By the edge of the Botanical
Gardens the current flows fast and strong, revealing the
treacherous character of the river, the bed of which is
constantly shifting and upheaving, causing serious damage
to shipping. I am informed that the pilots of the Hooghly
form an able body of seamen, and that they are recruited
from men of talent and culture ; they hold a proud and
prominent position among the mercantile marine. There
is some splendid wood in the Botanical Gardens close by ;
the topes of lofty palms are seen from the river. The
stream expands perceptibly, and the low shores recede as we
advance. Nature is a great enchantress if we let her appeal
to our hearts. What sane man would trouble himself about
the future, when only to breathe the warm elastic air is a
kind of physical pleasure, and to look into the dense blue
desert of air a dream ? Here was a scene on which Winter
never stamped his frozen image, never disrobed the wood
of its leaves, or sky of its delicate drapery. Time, the
blast of the cyclone sometimes rages over it, dealing destruc-
tion in a lordly manner, but the icy breath of Winter, mth
20 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
his mean fogs and ruthless destruction of colour, never
violates the body of the majestic Hooghly.
LANDMARKS.
On we swept, past tht Acra Government brickfields,
obelisks, floating buoys, and other sign-posts to avoid
destruction, until we faced Melancholy Point, which derives
its name from a terrible catastrophe which occurred there a
hundred years ago. A flock of vultures were perched on
the spot — grim attendants of Death, Now we pass the
Empress of India Mills, and Fort Gloster ; then those of
Bowreah and Budge-Budge. Old Honeymoon House was
pointed out, the scene of amorous festivities, which the
famous old judge. Sir Barnes Peacock, occupied. His
memory is still treasured for his sturdy independence. A
man who had the ability and force of character to rise, in
the old days of monopoly and patronage, from the position
of a clerk to be Chief Justice of the High Court, must be
worth honouring. Diamond Harbour presents no striking
feature, beyond a vast expanse of water, low-lying banks
and an aspect of iinqualified solitude.
THE FUTORE.
When will English capitalists wake to the fact that it is
wiser to line the shores of the Hooghly with mills and
factories and get all their work done here, where labour is
cheap and opportunities numerous, than in propping up the
dying concerns of Dundee and Lancashire ? With a line of
rails from Rangoon to the borders of China, a magnificent
ON THE BOOGBLY. 21
market might be opened, which would make France green
Avith jealousy, and fill the pockets of our traders to over-
flowing. At present from Bhamo, the most nortliern town
in Burmah, goods have to be conveyed on the backs of pack
mules at a charge of 525 rupees a ton, which makes the
price of woollens and cottons prohibitive on the borders of
China. If England does not step in, France will command
the whole trade of southern China.
CREATURE COMFORTS.
About 2 o'clock the party sat down to tiffin. Three
tables were full, but we could have accommodated more.
There was abundance of everything to tempt the palate :
roast fowl, Yorkshire ham, game pie, cheese, pastry, and
ice drinks, and some square bottles which did not, I was
assured, contain Croft's "Three Elephant Blend." There
was not one drawback to our enjoyment. !No waiting or
confusion, and everything went off as merry as a marriage
bell. A gentleman present voiced the feelings of the
company in acknowledging the completeness of the excellent
arrangements that had been made. Such short trips meet
the needs of many who cannot absent themselves for any
length of time from their business, and are far more health-
ful than a week's freezing on the icy peaks of Darjeeling,
in houses where the fireplaces are a fraud and a delusion,
and where the exorbitant charges make the mountain-retreat
prohibitive to all except those with a big purse. On the
homeward journey the attention of the company was
diverted from scenery to sociability. There was no lack
22 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
^^l material, for many of the gentlemen possessed both
liistrionic and vocal powers which caused much mirth and
good-fellowship. In dropping down the river some of us
felt that we had also dropped several years which Time had
strapped on our backs, and '^^he sight of some young couples
waltzing on the deck brought back the glamour of the past.
THE CLOSE OF THE DAY.
As we neared home the cloud effects on the western sky
were simply dazzling in their variety and grandeur. The
white banks of silvery floss caught a ruby tinge as they
floated over a background of old gold barred with rich
crimson lines, while the glimpses of the sky beyond showed
the purest cobalt. The divinity whom the Incas adored
sank tired behind a canopy of the richest drapery, diaph-
anous as the veil of a bride, and no more to be reproduced
by the brush of a Claude or a Turner than by the broom of
a house sweeper. And so one happy day seemed to have
glided by, to the limbo of the mysterious past, like a flower
on the water.
CHAPTER III.
THE INDIAN MUSEUM.
Among the many institutions founded by the British Raj
in this Land of Regrets, there is none of greater im-
portance than that now located in the palatial structure
on the Chowringhee Road. The Museum was created by
Sir William Jones in the last century, and was taken over
by the Government in 1867. The Board of Works are
responsible for the structure and the new wings now being
added. Whatever the building cost, it is worthy of the
valuable treasure hived up within its walls, and forms a
splendid addition to the palaces which adorn the city.
THE KING OF THE ESTABLISHMENT.
The director of this princely institute is the famous and
learned Dr. Watt. Of his scholarship little need be said ;
his works speak for him. If any one cherishes a conceit
about his own acquaintance with plant life, let him turn to
the Dictionary of Economic Products, and a casual glance
at this huge testimony of labour, knowledge, and industry
will empty him clean of that conceit as quickly as a shell
hurries from the muzzle of a mortar. The mind reels
24 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
before the mass of knowledge compiled in its pages and set
forth in so clear and readable a manner. And yet little
practical use has been made of this knowledge in the
country which most needs it. Agriculture, manufactures
from indigenous products, rhining, and industry are all in
their infancy in India. Very few of the modern improve-
ments have been either accepted or put into operation, while
Dr. Watt and many agricultural experts are crying like
John the Baptist in the wilderness.
THE MUSEUM SPECIALITY.
Unlike the British, the Indian Museum aims at being an
active and integral force in the life of the people, and not a
mere collection of curios, archaeological and antiquarian.
In seeking to penetrate this vast hive and collection of
strange treasures, I sought the queen bee of the establish-
ment, around whom the work centres, and after mounting
as many steps as may have gone to make up Jacob's famous
ladder, I found this creature, a masculine entity, at the top
of the building, in the person of Mr. T. N. Mukherji,
F. L. S. The bee is a little dried-up man, closely buttoned
in an eri silk coat. The drying process seems to have taken
place inwardly as well as outwardly, and has added
additional brilliancy to his eyes and further energy to his
body. A casual visitor travelling through the bazaars
might think the ordinary Indian, apathetic, and so he is.
There are, however, brilliant exceptions. Mr. Mukherji is
one of them. He is as energetic as two Englishmen, and
a Frenchman thrown in. The Museum bee has travelled
THE INDIAN MUSEUM. 25
in Europe, been presented to the best people, pushed his
sharp nose into every doghole of art and industry, written
a very readable account of his travels, and, in fact, is as
active and nimble as one of his own silkworms, a subject in
which he takes a keen delight.
THE WORKING ROOM.
There was nothing luxurious in his study. A couple of
bookcases crammed witli blue-books, two tables loaded with
papers, a few chairs, and a large writing-desk constituted
the furniture, while the floor was littered with official
documents.
" You seem to have a large correspondence," I remarked,
taking the chair offered to me. " Yes, we get letters from
all quarters on all Idnds of subjects," he answered, jumping
nimbly from his chair, and picking up a file on the floor
containing recent despatches. His movements reminded me
of Mr. Gladstone in the Hawarden Library. The old
parliamentary hand would pounce on a blue-book in the
middle of a conversation to illustrate the subject with the
same jerky alertness.
I examined the letter handed to me, and found that it
came from a Swiss merchant, inquiring for a vegetable
substance to be used as braid for fancy hats.
" What answer have you given him ?" I asked, wonder-
ing how a merchant in Switzerland could have thought of
the Calcutta Museum.
" We are testing several vegetable products, and have
not yet arrived at what is wanted. It is well worth our
26 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
■while, for about sixty lakhs of material for this is annually
consumed. If successful, a great industry will be founded."
" How have they come to refer to you ?" I asked. " The
merchants generally apply to the Imperial Institute, that
founded by the Prince of Wales," explained Mr. Mukherji,
" and the authorities there send a requisition to the Indian
Museum."
" Your correspondence is varied," I hazarded, glancing
at the heap of letters.
" Here is another from Canada on the subject of mica.
Canadian mica is now largely used in England, but our
Indian product is of better quality."
He took from the drawer of his writing-table some sheets
of this beautiful transparent and translucent mineral,
resembling sheets of glass. The Indian had a beautiful
ruby colour which the Canadian specimen lacked.
" How do you get your samples, I mean the various
products you have in your cases ?" I inquired.
" All manufacturers send us specimens. We don't buy
much. Occasionally when we hear that a native workman
possesses some handicraft secret that is likely to die with
him, we spend a little. We send him pupils, and try
to preserve the secret. Many of the old secrets of the
weaver, potter, and medicine dealer have died out. They
are very reluctant to part with their knowledge. The supply
of cheap goods has almost killed the old high art which the
native possessed. It is not worth his while to labour when
lihe demand has fallen off."
THE INDIAN MUSEUM, 27
INDIAN INDUSTRIAL CONFERENCE,
Mr, Mukherji said this sadly, for he is one of tlie few
Indian gentlemen whose heart throbs with patriotic feeling,
and he bitterly mourns the apathy aud want of enterprise
in his countrymen. He had to resign his conneciion with
the Indian Industrial Conference, as the members failed to
pay their subscriptions and declined to do anything to
forward the scheme. Since then he has been trying on his
own account to spread a knowledge of the silkworm. He
gives the seed free, with instructions, only making a small
charge to cover expenses. In this he is greatly assisted by
the Directors of Public Instruction in many of the Provinces.
" Is this silk scheme likely to take ?" I asked with
hesitation, for I now despair of rousing the Indians to any
interest in their country. My enthusiasm is pumped dry,
"I think so," was the reply, "The industry is not
costly, poor people can take it up. I have found that the
worm will thrive on the leaves of the castor-oil plant, which
grows in abundance. The people use only the seed for oil ;
the leaves are thrown away, I have found a use for these
leaves, which even the cattle won't touch. Since I have
explained it, applications for seed are coming in from all
parts of the country."
Mr. Mukherji has only a tepid interest in political
history, especially when it clashes with his particular hobby.
"Fancy,'' he remarked, "teaching boys all about Cromwell,
who is dead, and not making the silkworm an object
lesson in the schools — a creature that is alive, and wlvose
28 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
industry would put bread in their mouths, and money in
their pockets !"
1 gravely admitted that the Protector was dead,
and, yielding to the persuasive eloquence of the Museum
authority, conceded further, with certain mental reservation,
that a live worm was better than a dead statesman.
"Why don't you write about this, and get practical
knowledge introduced in the schools ?" he suggested.
"The Bengalee does not take kindly to my advice," I
answered. "You know the old saying of taking an un-
willing horse to the water. But may I ask what is that
mysterious compound I see in those bottles ?" 1 asked,
<jhanging the subject.
THE GERMICIDE.
"That is a sample of a new kind of oil. We are cons-
tantly flooded with such specimens."
The explanation relieved my mind, for I was disquieted
by the thought that my energetic host might have meditated
suicide through disappointment with his short-sighted
countrymen, who resolutely treat the suggestions of a
friend as the utterance of an enemy.
"I think you are interested in plants," observed Mr.
Mukherji. On giving him an affirmative assurance he
produced a bottle carefully labelled Adhatoda Vasica.
" The Sanskrit name" he added, " is Basak". " There is a
little history attached to it," he remarked, curiously exami-
ning the bottle, which he held up to the light. "Dr. Watt
while visiting the Punjab happened to stop at a Rajpoot
THE INDIAN MUSEUM^ 20
village, where he found the natives sprinkling the wet paddy
fields with the leaves of a certain plant. They assured
him that it killed a kind of deadly worm which haunted
the rice fields. He brought home some specimens, and
submitted them to various experts to ascertain its real
properties. The })lant is still under consideration. One
thing it will do for certain. Place a sprig of it in the
foulest water, and it will purify it."
THE GALLERIES.
Mr. Mukherji is a mine of industrial sagacity, a sort
of Liebig'sfc extract of the wisdom of the ages ; he can
also talk with the clear-headedness of a solicitor. But
knowing that he is a busy man, I withdrew, thanking him
for the interview. I have only given as a sample a tea-
spoonful of the knowledge imparted.
In the upper rooms of the Museum there is an ethnolo-
gical collection of great value which is not yet completed.
Here may be found typical models of the races of India.
First, a photograph of a man or a family ; then a clay
model, life size, done wonderfully well by a native artist ;
also models of the houses, specimens of personal ornaments,
household articles, agricultural implements, village industry,
sport, weapons of warfare, musical instruments, sacrod
articles, food, and toys. You have only to select your
group, and may thus trace the whole family with all tlioir
belongings. This plan gives a correct idea of the different
races of India ; history and geography will fill up the gajjs.
If the visitor has no such clue, Tiis inspection will only
30 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
confuse him ; he will wake with a night-mare vision of
fishes, birds, tigers, elephants, pots, statues, and brazen
ornaments dancing a hornpipe in his brain.
A SUGGESTION.
The authorities should also issue a handy volume of
explanation of various sections and the articles they contain,
and some smart young students should be appointed to
conduct parties over the building, as there are special days
set apart for women. I would recommend Miss Bose, of
the Bethune College, to have one of her smartest girls
trained as a lady guide for her own sex. No lather can
give his little boy a greater treat than a walk through
some of the departments ; but the attempt to do the whole
building in one day should be avoided.
THE ART SCHOOL.
A branch of the building contains the Art School.
Through the courtesy of the headmaster, Mr. A. P. Bagchi,
I was permitted to inspect the class-rooms and address the
students. From the black-board to the life-class, both order
and system prevailed. Over three hundred students get an
education here. I noticed with regret an entire absence of
anything like enthusiasm ; the only ambition was to get
"an employment." A few exhibited a desire to become
portrait painters. Some passable studies of heads were
shown me, but these for the most part were wodden and
conventional — a fact not to cause surprise, for both in
painting and literature slavish imitation kills originality.
THE INDIAN MUSEUM. 31
The "light that never was on sea or shore" rarely falls on
the amateur. Painting is the most precarious profession.
For one success there may be a hundred failures.
RECOMMENDATION.
If the Simla Fine Art Society would communicate their
"sweetness and light" by holding their Exhibition in
Calcutta, and invite the contributions of the students, much
might be done ; also a few scholarships of from Es. 50 to
Rs. 100 might be offered for the best work in landscapes,
figures, and animal painting, with a trifle for an outfit.
The successful candidate might be sent to travel and bring
back a portfolio of sketches from nature and life. The
Committee of Fine Art might, on exhibition, recommend
for an annual scholarship the two best men, and the
Government might lawfully endow this travelling scholar-
ship. Three years study in Italy would bring out the best
in the student. Ceylon confers an annual scholarship on
the best student in England. India might very well adopt
this precedent. This alone will dispel the gloom and dejec-
tion which now hangs over the art student of Calcutta,
The princes and zemindars might help the movement by
purchasing pictures of their country, instead of disfiguring
their walls with hideous oleographs and worthless daubs
from England and Germany. The rivers, plains, and
magnificent mountain passes of India should be studied
and reproduced on canvas. It is possible to dip the pen
and brush in glory, and the Indian student should do it.
It is simply preposterous to deny that the races of Indja
32 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
are wanting in genius and talent, after contemplating their
delicate carving, the beautiful tracing in wood, stone, and
clay, and the exquisite fabrics of their looms, once the
wonder of the world. There is little of artistic aptitude
in the present race. Granted. The faculties are sub-
merged, not obliterated. Art traditions and hereditary skill
die slowly ; a more tender and liberal treatment will restore
those talents. To do so is the highest and holiest duty
of the State.
CHAPTER IV.
THE FAIRY TALES OF SCIENCE.
All the knowledge worth having is surrounded with a
hedge of thorns, be it music, literature, botany, geology, or
natural science. To break through this hedge is the first
duty. The sweet kernel cannot be attained without smash-
ing the shell, so nothing worth having can be acquired
without labour. To this rule there is no exception. Only
those who have patience and perseverance will receive the
reward which neither money nor rank can purchase, but
which often leads to both. This is true with regard to the
science of botany, a branch of knowledge which forms an
insignificant part of the ordinary school or college curriculum.
Its truth was admirably illustrated in a lecture delivered by
a talented young doctor at the Hall of Science, Bow Bazar,
on Saturday night. Dr. S. B. Mittra received his edu-
cation in the godless London University, where knowledge
unadulterated with spirituality is freely dispensed. Darwin,
Tyndal, aCnd Huxley are the gods of the modern pantheon
of materialism, and to these he bows the knee with all the
idolatry of a convert. The theory of natural selection an^
III
34 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
mutton protoplasm found in him an ardent defender. This
talented young Indian gentleman is either ignorant of the
spiritual conceptions of man and the universe, taught by
his ancestors in the Upanishads and Vedas, or he has
voluntarily thrown them over for the flippant and flimsy
materialism of the West. He has exchanged a faith hoary
with antiquity and replete with the highest wisdom for a
pinch-beck materialistic creed, Protean in its form, fluid
in its character, and as evanescent as a soap bubble. ISo
doubt, all the young men present will take him for their
model, for this is an age when everybody is imitating some-
body, and the race of sceptics and materialists are on the
increase. Such knowledge will prove for India a calamity
heavier than the Military Bill, or the dancing rupee ; for
a nation which has lost its spirituality is on the down
grade, with all the brakes up, and no power in heaven
or hell can save it from the destructive selfishness which
must inevitably follow. Dr. Mittra traced life back to a
distant stage, ignoring the fact that from the protoplasm
theory the embryos of life can show no difference between
an elephant, an eagle, and a man. To make protoplasm
the goal instead of the half-way house is a profound mis-
take, only equalled by the error of resting there, and saying
that nothing farther can be found beyond. A great deal
does exist utterly unknown to modern science. We admit
that protoplasm may be a bridge between the world of plants
and the world of animals, and in support of this Superficial
knowledge, it is an advantage to know that there is no
essential difference between the structure of a fish and that
THE FAIR Y TA LES OF SCIENCE. 35
of a man, one being only the primitive form of the more
complex mechanism seen in the other. It does not however
advance knowledge very much to know that a herripg is
subject to rlieumatism, and judging from the number of his
bones he must have a lively time of it — still it is a point
gained. But to fling our cap in the air, and shont Eureka !
when we have only discovered the identity of the animal
and vegetable kingdom, is but the act of a schoolboy who
discovered that two and two make four, but never dreamed
of the existence of the Kule of Three. Dr. Mittra has a
good deal of conceit to get rid of, and when he has got rid
of a good deal, there will be a good deal left ; he is
liowever a student and an enthusiast with some capacity, so
there is hope for him. But he must be assured that the
advanced chapter of life, is not chronicled in the archives
of the London University, but it is to be found nearer
at hand.
It is sheer waste of time to devote exclusive study to
examining the house we live in, laboriously searching the
quarry from which the stones were carted, when we care
nothing about discovering the spiritual ancestry of the Ego
which resides in the tenament and through which it feebly
and clumsily tries to gesticulate its meaning. A half-an-
hour alone with the corpse of the dearest friend will convince
the most sceptical that the body of clay is not the friend we
loved ; but an imperfect adjunct of the Ego who used it
as a glovo, a pair of boots, or a suit of clothes. Where
then is the comfort of protoplasm ? Of the lecture itself, we
liave nothing but praise. The subject was attractive—.
36 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
Carnivorous Plants and their Scientific Significance, the
Drosera, Dioncsea, Aldrovanda, and Nepenthes or Pitcher
Plants were cited as samples. The lecturer showed with
praise-worthy skill the construction of those villainous
plants the pirates and cannibals of the vegetable world.
Many believe that all the beautiful and delicate flowers,
which we love and cherish, are innocent and harmless, that
their beauty makes us glad ; but, like human nature they
frequently are, not what they seem. Some have potentia-
lities' of mischief and can prove themselves as heartless
as the Calcutta Municipality, where life is concerned,
and as remorseless as a Thug, when the opportunity for
destruction presents itself. There are several members olt
this tribe which the lecturer might have mentioned, with
even more startling qualities of a hurtful character. One
plant found in the jungles of Ceylon, is very curious.
The leaves fold together at night, and the twigs coil
themselves up like the tail of a well-conditioned pig.
If the foliage is stroked, it exhibits emotion, and when
touched, the leaves will stand up like the fur on the
back of an angry cat. Then the whole plant gets into
a feverish quiver of excitement, giving out a sickening
pungent odour like a rattlesnake when disturbed^ while a
trained ear will distinguish a hoarse raucous sound like the
hiss of a serpent, and if observations are taken in a darkened
room, sparks of red and green light will be seen to spring
from it. Such is its antagonism to the huufan touch.
"When this plant is taken into the house both doors and
windows must be opened to let out the offensive smell.
yS^E FAIRY TALES OF SCIENCE. 37
In an hour or so it calms down, and folds its leaves. Tliere
are several species of this plant, one of the most remarkable
being the Aristolochia Jigas, the carrion fly-trap, a native
of Brazil which also flourishes in India. There is another
of the Loranthus order, a horrid parasite, whose vital
essence is so strong that it will fuse fractured bones like
metals, and judiciously used will effect a cure in half-an-hour
which the ablest surgeon cannot encompass in forty-eight.
The number of interesting plants is not yet rendered by any
of our botanists. Their qualities cannot be ascertained by
scalpel or crucible, but their properties, when known, will
produce a revolution in medical science. The crass bigotry
of the medical faculty prevents an examination from the
right standpoint.
The Indian public is vastly indebted to Dr. Mohindro
Lall Sircar for his indefatigable efforts to found a College of
Science, which at present is only a monument of unfulfilled
wishes, a veritable palace of indolence on which a vast
amount of money has been spent with absolutely nothing to
show for the expenditure. The presence of this gentleman
was a striking picture at the meeting ; clothed in white
flowing robes, his grand shaped head, with the lofty brow
deeply seamed with lines of thought, while his bowed figure
showed the advance of years, yet when he stood up and
spoke, old age dropped from him like a garment. There
was not a younger man in the house. The glowing fiery
lieart of tlte Indian enthusiast burst forth in a torrent of
well-selected words which rang tlirough the hall sound-
inar like the crash of Iloman swords on the helmets ei
38 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
barbarians. He harangned the youth on his favourite
subject, while a minor note ran through his eloquent words,
a lament over the five and twenty years he laboured among
them with such small resu'ts. India had some noble men
in the past, Sages and Kishis, but she is not without some
great men to-day. Dr. Mohindro Lall Sircar is undoubtedly
one of them.
Dr. King, the distinguished and well-known botanist,
presided. We cannot readily forgive this gentleman for
the humiliation he has caused us. His speech was brief,
but every syllable-bit like aquafortis, while the right words
dropped from him as naturally as a stone falls from the
hand to the ground. Every literary man present must
have felt how poor their attempts at language were in
comparison with his well-selected words. Before taking the
chair. Dr. King glanced mournfully at the diagrams, then
with a feeling of shame for the scandalous conduct of the
sweet pets to whom he had given his life, he frankly con-
fessed that the inhabitants of the world of plants were not
all vegetarians liviug on simple food such as air, salts, and
other harmless products. Though the Heaven might fall,
truth should be spoken. Some were flesh-eaters with such
diabolical proclivities as would match the worst products of
our advanced civilisation. This confession was wrung from
him, but he added by way of comfort that their number
was insignificant.
A word in behalf of the Indian youths who' have sadly
neglected this science. Perhaps they are not so guilty ;
when technical schools are developed and industries planted,
THE FAIRY TALES OF SCIENCE. 39
when the people give up hoarding and perceive the wisdom
of investing their money in productive works, then and only
then, will they see the value of cultivating science. If the
rulers, who have laboured liere to open out the country
and introduce law, order, and a higher morality, help to
initiate this movement, they will be recognised as the great
benefactors of India. The education of a country should
not be left to the direction of heartless creatures, whose
interest is mainly confined to the splendid income they
draw, without caring to introduce any of the modern
improvements which would benefit the country.
That the rulers will have a long and arduous task before
them there is no denying, but a beginning must be made to
prevent the tide of starvation. India, like ancient Britaiii
when the Roman forces were witlidrawn, has sunk into
apatliy. The truth is that there is no more elasticity in
the Indian people than in a feather bed, and the education
hitherto given has only developed the most mischievous
qualities of the tongue.
CHAPTER V.
THE VIRTUE OF OLD SHOES.
LucKNOw is a historic town, a city of roses, but even the
perfume of those delicious things has not produced that
sweet odour and contentment wliich Nature would seem to
suggest, when she allows the fairest of her gifts to bloom in
that lovely place. It frequently happens that in a country,
like Ceylon, where Nature lavishes her noblest gifts on
the physical features, that the endowment of moral prin-
ciples is proportionately slender. The same law applies to
the individual ; when Nature accumulates in a great man
the force ordinarily distributed tlirough several generations,
she generally recoups herself by a scanty allowance to his
immediate successors. That discontent reigns in beautiful
Lucknow is beyond doubt, for the "Secretariat Lion" of the
province has issued an order so strange and wonderful,
that the thoughtful Englishman at home will rub his eyes
and exclaim, "Bless me, what is the meaning of this ?"
Here is the order framed by the authorities : '■^Accused
persons under trial should always be required 'to leave
their shoes outside the Court before being called before a
M(^istratey Now, there is no denying that the Civil
THE VIRTUE OF OLD SHOES. 41
Service comprises men of perspiciiity and ability, but it is
equally certain that there are several selected, to grace the
network of Indian Government, who ai'e both unfit and
unqualified for the duty they are paid to perform. When
the system of '*cram" and hot-bed examination is considered,
it is no wonder that the authorities, in their efforts to manu-
facture the silken fabric out of the pig's ear, only succeed
in producing a bristly raw material of doubtful quality. In
the latter case, there sliould be as little delay as possible in
rectifying the mistake, by reducing to their level those who
have proved themselves incompetent to fill the offices allotted
to them ; chartered incompetence should not be forced into
the public service, either by privilege or patent. To shelter
or defend such men is only to perpetuate the evil and expose
the Government to contempt. The whims or blunders of
tliose in high stations cause grave results. France and
•Germany are indebted to the caprice of the Empress of the
French for a war, whieli brought desolation into thousands
of homes and fearful loss of life. In India there are
magistrates and officials who would be a discredit to the
republican states of South America.
The origin of the singular restriction issued by the
authorities and presented above requires an explanation,
which we hasten to offer ; but in passing, we are bound to
state plainly and without hesitation that the Government
of the N. W. Provinces have no personal hostility to shoes
as a matfter of clotliing, nor are they desirous of abolishing
such articles of use or ornament, with the view of reducing
the hardy race of the kingdom of Ondh to the primitive
42 TXDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
barbarity of a shoeless condition. Nothing of the kind.
The British Government must be entirely exonerated from
even harbouring a suspicion on this head. In the case of
Indian minors, we were only too glad to be able to bestow
credit on the Government for its wise action in protecting
and fostering the interests of the Indian wards ; here
we are equally desirous of preventing misconception and
calumny. The British Government have absolutely no desire
to strip the Indian of his shoes, or otherwise degrade him,
A sense of abstract justice wrings from us this confession,
and we humbly hope it will be scored in our favour when-
ever we may have the misfortune to differ from those titled
and untitled rulers, for whom, in the language of our
beautiful Litany, we pray " that they may be gifted with
grace, wisdom, and understanding." As a matter of fact,
we are bound to say that the petition has not yet been
answered, though thirty seven million English folk are
imploring its fulfilment for a longer period than we care to
mention. This, however, is a digression. The order to wear
no shoes on going into Court is simply a measure of protec-
tion for the benefit of unpopular Magistrates, issued by a
beneficent paternal Government. The people of Lucknow
are evidently gifted with an original turn of mind, when they
discovered a new use for shoes, which has perplexed and
grieved the minds of the authorities. Mrs. Partington,
with her mop, ordering off the Atlantic, it seems, imported
a large number of her family to India, hence these futile
regulations. Is it Huxley or some of the "infalUbles"' of the
day, who stated that dirt was only matter in the wrong place ?
THE VIRTUE OB' OLD SHOES. 43
The authorities in Lucknow seem to take a similar view of
the article shoe. The people of the province of Oudh with
extraordinary inventiveness employ those homely articles
not only for use but as a handy missile to express their
discontent. Differing with the presiding magistrate in the
administration of justice, they selected, this new method of
accentuating their discontent by flinging their shoes at the
head of the unpopular functionary of justice. The Govern-
ment in consequence issued special instructions to protect its
officials. Now, people who are addicted to the pastime of
throwing shoes at magistrates are generally old offenders,
with, no doubt, a deep sense of humour and a considerable
amount of craft, for the objectionable missile must have
been concealed on their person before entering the court.
It is evident that the Magistrate in Lucknow is not a
respected guardian of the rights of the people ; neither
is the government well advised in issuing such instructions,
when the simple plan of ordering the persons to be searched
before being placed on their trial might have answered the
purpose.
Trifling as this circumstance may seem, yet it contains
a moral which we respectfully commend to the notice of
our own respected Lieutenant-Governor, a gentleman whose
genuine interest in the welfare of the people is undoubted,
and whose earnestness and indefatigable efforts to bring
about reforms, always an unpopular task, command our
deepest 'respect. Sir Charles Elliott has more than once
given way to the dictates of a warm heart, in opposition
to the high sense of justice which ordinarily rules his gon-
44 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
•duet while exercising the lofty powers with which he is
vested. Mr, Phillips, of Mymensing, Mr. Beatsou-Bell,
of Khulna, aad others whom we could mention, have flag-
rantly abused the powers entrusted to them without reproof.
Magistrates, who box the ears of witnesses, or clear tke
rcourt with a big stick, or lash an unfortunate man to
fainting for not bringing him a cup of milk, are not types
; of men to deserve much consideration at the hands of a
superior : yet these are the men honoured by the Lieut-
Governor. Mr. Philips's act of degrading one of the
princes of the country was perhaps the gravest offence of
all. Nothing creates a deeper feeling of discontent in the
Indian mind than those wanton acts of tyranny. Our
policy towards the people should be that of conciliation
and justice, and even large allowances should be made for
the foibles of a proud, sensitive people, who feel acutely any
indignity at the hands of the rulers. Where confidence is
placed in the people, they often bravely act up and beyond
the ordinary standard. Sir Charles Elliott is too ready to
protect with the wgis of his authority, men who forget they
are gentlemen, dealing with men of an ancient race, having
a civilization at their back compared to which the civilisation
of England is as Brummagem paste to the monuments of
Egypt. We hold no brief for either side, but we venture
to suggest more firmness on the part of Sir Charles Elliott
in dealing with such cases, else his own reputation will
suffer, and the authority of an English *Saheb will <be shorn
-of that lofty sense of justice we are supposed to possess
and for which we are aU so justly proud.
CHAPTER VI.
TECHNICAL EDUCATION.
There is not a more pressing subject of our day than the
technical education of the masses. N'ow, owing to the fact
that India, like a spendthrift, has exceeded her income,
and plunged into debt, the necessity of retrenchment is
imperative. There is no use disguising the fact that the
cause of India's indebtedness is to be ascribed to the
heedless extravagance of the government. The rupee ha,s
nothing, or next to nothing, to do with it : the fault rests
mainly with the rulers ; while the apathy and indifference of
the people is a matter of profound regret. There is absolutely
no public opinion in India. Rulers in every country require
to be watched, their actions criticised, and every shred of
information, calculated to throw light on the administration,
should be contributed. The rulers of the land are mortal ;
they have their faults, vices, and virtues, but they are not
intentionally vicious ; they are not slave-drivers ; they have
given ab'Vmdant proofs by scores of action that they are
humane, generous, and well-disposed towards the people
among whom their lives are thrown. But what have tjie
46 INDIA N SKE TCHES A ND RA MBL ES.
Indian people done to arrest the country in its downward
journey towards bankruptcy ? Absolutely notliing. Now,
as there is no use weeping over spilt milk, let us see what
ought to be done to place the country in a better position.
What was done in England only very lately, when it
dawned upon the rulers that the trade was going out
of the country, and the people in danger of starvation.
Conferences were held to discuss the situation, and prompt
measures were adopted to meet the difficulty. If the
Indian people will stop and consider the situation, they
too will see a way out. Twenty years ago, in England,
there was hardly any talk of science, and absolutely no-
thing known of its application to the various industries or
handicrafts. A few special schools existed, but they bore no
proportion to the number or the wants of the population.
The Conferences which afterwards met to discuss the
matter, decided that it was no longer advisable to carry on
education in a rule-of-three manner. In 1889 the first step
was taken by the passing of the Technical Education Act.
But following this, the most important proceeding was
setting aside a sum of £750,000 for scientific and technical
education. This should be the policy which the Indian
jieople should follow, A large sum of money ought to be
devoted to the cultivation of the soil. No industry in the
world requires such varied knowledge and skill as the
agricultural interest. The soil of India must be put under
examination — not only to ascertain what grows on it, but
what is found in it. India is fertile in every product which
goes to make a great country, but her knowledge of these
TECHNICAL EDUCATION. 47
products and the present use made of them is entirely behind
the age. The EngHsh Parliament contributed a matter
of £8,000 — a niggardly sum, for agricultural purposes.
The poorest canton of Switzerland gave three times that
amount. But the Swiss are alive to the advantages of a
sound education for a period of more than forty years.
Switzerland put in practice the principles of co-operation,
and founded a landed system utterly beyond the present
conception of the wisest English legislators.
In England there are wealthy colleges and aristocratic
centres for the education of youth. There a fellowship is
given to a man for life — a prize for a single battle — and
frequently a clever man becomes a veritable drone ;
instead of being equipped for the battle of life, and quaU-
fied to teach others, he is kept in cloisters, forbidden to
marry, and about as useful to his fellow men as a postage
stamp without gum, Now, colleges should not be erected
to make drones or pedants, they should help to make men
useful citizens, men of wisdom able to guide and help the
nation in the field, the factory, the farm, and the workshop.
Knowledge should ennoble and beautify all the relations
of life. What the world wants is not a body of men
skilled in twisting words, fomenting quarrels, teaching poor,
simple folk to give false evidence, and bolster up cases for
heavy lawsuits. There are no doubt plenty of conscientious,
upright lawyers, who defend the weak and protect the
innocent 'from false charges, and as long as the world is
constituted as it is, the services of these men will be neces-
sary, but the Indian system of education has fostered an
49 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
increasing army of lawyers who foment litigation, and confer
little benefit on the country beyond increasing the stamp
revenue. If the principles of honesty and sound moral
teaching were more universally infused, there would be less
occasion for the services of the law, a view of the question
which has entirely escaped the notice of the Indian Legis-
lator. Sam Weller sagely inquired — if it were not for
corpses, what would become of undertakers ? What India
wants to-day, is not an army of lawyers, but a large body of
skilled and educated workingmen who know the nature of the
products of the earth, and the best uses to apply them to.
Can anything be more nonsensical than for India to send
to England the raw material for buttons, and get back the
finished article, paying over three hundred per cent for the
manufacture, or to send to Japan for matches which could
be made here. These are only a small sample of numeroiis
defects which shows the gross neglect of education in this
country, where the people possess the keenest intelligence
and highest intellectual power. India, with its cheap labour,
enormous territory, infinite climate, magnificent mountain
ranges, splendid valleys, and flowing rivers, abounding in all
the varied wealth tlAt the world can exhibit — a country
capable of supportmg itself without asking a shilling's
worth from any other country — is practically undeveloped.
Every village should have its school, and every school its
garden and workshop. All the large towns should possess
museums and picture galleries, with a town hall, and
lecture-room erected in every centre. The laws of sani-
tation should form the curriculum of public instruction ;
TECHNICAL EDUCATION. 49
prizes and honours should be bestowed liberally on all who
exhibit good work in art, horticulture, and construction
of articles of beauty ; a knowledge of music should be
widely diffused, and spirited games encouraged to make the
people happy. The hiving of human beings in large cities
should be regarded as a doubtful speculation, a source of
profit to a few, but a curse and a temptation to the many.
Periiaps a time will come when the pace will become
slower, and men will find out that much of this fretting and
fuming for amassing large fortunes, a waste of strength,
detrimental to the mental, physical, and moral nature, and
not worth the high price we pay for it.
IV
CHAPTER Yll.
JAIL LABOUR.
There is a pathetic appeal in tlie Bangabasi against the
manner in which the English Government has trifled with
and suppressed many of the native industries. Owing to
the import of Europe-made articles, all indigenous arts
are well nigh destroyed. The writer is evidently influenced
by a true patriotic sentiment, desirous of rousing his
countiymen from their apathy, and apparently not actuated
by any disloyalty towards the ruling power. He calls on
his countrymen to resist the current of destruction that has
overtaken them, to give free play to their own powers, and
urges them to rise and make an effort to save themselves
from the impending danger. He forcibly points out that
it is owing to their own negligence and carelessness, that
articles manufactured in Europe are finding an increasing-
market in this country, and that, owing to this foreign
competition, they are losing their work, and are being turned
into beggars and thieves. He points, as an example, to
the weavers of Bengal, reduced from their once flourishing
condition to the present state of indigence, in consequence
JAIL LABOUR. 51
of the competition with Lancasliire ; also at the smiths, oil-
millars, potters, and even the Brahmin pundit — all swept
aside by the encroach of English trade and knowledge.
Of course he does not perceive that the improvement in
machinery and the advance of new methods tell equally
Iiard on the petty artisans of Europe. It cannot be denied
that our rule, benevolent as it is, has much to do with the
downfall of many of the arts and industries of India. It is
•equally true that it is not the policy of the Government to
extend its j^rotecting a^gis over Indian industries neither is
it to oppose them. But is it not throwing its strength in
the opposite scale when it sets jail labour to compete with
purely native industry ? They have gone even further by
sending out of Agra a bagman to advertise this sin-polluted
labour. When jail-made goods are purchased by public
departments above the market j^rice, then the intention of the
rulers is unmistakable. Some little time ago, in Burmah,
the clamour of the carpenter and artisan class put a stop to
jail competition with local industries. Up to the present,
Government has made a very bad use of that splendid
territory. The jails in the country are the legalised technical
schools ; a man must qualify as a criminal before lie gets
in^ructed.
The Burmese are a bright, good humoured, clever
people, and the women are as charming and attractive
as Japs. What have we done for them ? Wliy, we have
filled the ^offices in Burma with the sweepings of Madras.
Married men from India went tliere, contracted tempoi-ary
unions with Burmese, begot children, made money, antl
52 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
retired, deserting their helpless offspring. The country
wants opening out, and yet capitalists and miners are driven
away. That is the story of Burma, and a dirty story it is.
There is, no doubt, a difficulty in selecting suitable and
remunerative labour for prisoners. But should the work
of this class be made remunerative is a point worth con-
sidering, and what may be the consequences if such a line of
conduct is steadily pursued. It will lead to a serious and
terrible complication which will ultimately prove hurtful
both to the community and the Government. A sample
of this evil may be seen in the matter of blankets supplied
to the Police and the Native Army manufactured in the
jails. The manufacture is superior, and the cost less than
that produced by the people who have been spinning wool
and weaving blankets for centuries. These ancient weavers
were glad to sell blankets to anyone for less than the jails
sell to the Police and Military ; tlie fine wool they were
also able to turn into shawls, which were eagerly purchased
by the well-to-do natives for prices varying from Rs 80
to 100. It is a serious loss that this industry should be
checked.
The native artisan is hustled out of the field, his
primitive but genuine work superseded by the perpetrators
of shoddy of the worst description, its only merit being
cheapness which is invariably allied to badness. The poor
weaver class has to struggle under disadvantages, until he
finally sinks into penury. There is no law to protect him,
but it is a trifie hard to think that, in addition to his many
disadvantages, he is obliged to compete with bounty-fed
JAIL LABOUR. 53
articles. The pity of it is that these poor simple people
with their innate aptitude and skill, bred of centuries of
early associations and hereditary work, should be crowded
out to satisfy the devouring maw of a greedy class of
traders, who are flooding the world with a cheap article,
which to know is to despise. Nor is the work of thievish
hands and enforced labour in jails to be set against
those primitive industrious artisans who are being converted
into beggars and thieves, as the Bangabasi remarks. Let
the jail department purchase blankets from the weavers at
the market price, and sell them to the Police and Military.
The jails would not then ruin the trade, the poor weavers
would not be suppressed, while the jail-birds might be
found something else to do.
There are other arguments which might be employed to
enforce this recommendation, but will have no weight with
a hard-headed materialistic people. From those living not
merely a criminal but a selfish life, there proceeds an atmos-
phere of evil, and everything that comes from their hands
has a deleterious effect. Many of the unaccountable crimes
committed, which neither the Law nor the Police can
account for, is owing to the malign influence exercised un-
consciously by .others. Some people, by nature or training,
have become so sensitive as to perceive this subtle influence
though unable to exhibit it to others. Perhaps the day is
not far distant Avhen the knowledge will be more generally
acquired ;• then no one will have any difficulty in perceiving
the necessity of avoiding contact with any object which
comes from the criminal and debased. But without havir^g
54 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
recourse to any sapersensual reasons, the plain grounds are
enough. Are we governing India for the benefit of the
Indian people ? If so, why pauperise the masses, and stifle
their little industries, or are we holding the country with
the grasp of iron to benefit the hungry sharks of Lanca-
shire, wlio would sell their grandmother's bones to a
surgeon for the smallest worldly gain, and who are utterly
indifferent to the welfare and interest of the people con-
cerned ? We pray that the nobler instincts of Englishmen
may be roused on this question, and believe that if the
appeal is heard, there will be no doubt of the decision.
CHAPTER VIII.
THE MERCANTILE MARINE.
The heavy rains have refreshed the trees and parched
grass of our beautiful maidan, one of the finest parks in
the world. Here the sports of the Calcutta j^outh are
conducted, and this open space testifies to the exuberant
vitality of the city ; the gentry take the air on horse-back
or in carriages by the stately Hooghly, with its forest of
trim spars etched sharply on an evening sky of crimson
and gold ; tired barristers and officials after toil in close
chambers snatch a brief respite on the Secretary's walk, or
saunter over the smooth glades that surround the Fort,
whose grim fortifications accentuate a distant period of
military history. From the maidan is only a step to the
Eden Gardens, laid out with exquisite taste and kept in the
best order by the Department of Public Works. Here is
to be found landscape gardening which gladdens the eye
and forms an oasis of rest after the congested lanes and
choked bazaars of the city. The municipality rules supreme
over those unsavoury streets, muddy lanes, evil-smelling
drains, and habitations freighted with disease, which woijld
56 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
not be tolerated even in Constantinople. This body is a
law unto itself, removed far beyond any appeals from
the most patient and long-enduring citizens. It is high
time to cease making useless remonstrances to men ^yho
have taken six years to discuss the propriety of construct-
ing a road in the suburbs, without even arriving at a
conclusion. Some day, in the distant future, the citizens
will perhaps wake up and dismiss these unprofitable
servants ; in the meantime let us speak softly, lest we
disturb the Lethean sleep of our townsfolk, or trouble the
pool of stagnant vested interests.
A QUIET RETREAT.
The Eden Gardens now command our attention, and
undoubtedly a gleam of Paradise has crept into this sweet
artificial solitude. Its luxuriant shade, its abundant clusters
of crimson and lilac blossoms mirrored in the still waters,
its miniature bridges over lotus-grown ponds, its trim walks
and green mounds, are a delight ; while tlie dark grotesque
temple of Buddha, with its sprawling semi-human statuary
and many-cornered roof, lends an air of antique religion
and historical colouring to this lovely retreat. It is pleasant
after the blazing sunshine, with the thermometer at 95°, to
wander through these grounds, and thank God, one is not
on the frowning heights of Darjeeling, with teeth chattering,
where even the memory of the nightly bed is a cold horror.
Here the sun never seems too hot, nor his golden arrows
ever unwelcome. In the Gardens one can listen with
pleasure to the cawing of the crows, the screams of the
THE MERCANTILE MARINE. 57
myna, the cliatter of the sparrows, and the plaintive whistle
of the kite as he sails supreme in the azure depths by mere
will-power hardly moving a feather. There is a rollicking
exuberance in the tiny snake as he swims round in circles
in the water, leaving a miniature trail behind him, previous
to one of those mysterious plunges to the bottom. There
is beauty in all these objects, down to the cicada among the
leaves and grass. When the day with its fierce glories is
dead, the soft pulsations of evening with its flickering
shades come in, bringing balm to jaded nerves. Squalor,
drudgery, and the carking cares of life melt into brief
■oblivion, and the holy stillness of Nature steps in as
a relief.
FOR WE ALL LOVE JACK.
The Band from another part of the grounds sends up
strains of haunting music. The Baboos sit in a row, shop
a,ssistants occupy chairs, and the carriage-folk loll on their
cushions. A few care-worn sailors lounge on tlie benches
looking " homeless, ragged, and tanned." I never choose
to withdraw myself from the labour and common burden of
life — my nature tempts me to go shares vrith the unlucky.
I in consequence sit among this class and listen to their
tajes of sorrow. We treat this poor mercantile marine in
a shameful manner. The popular view of Jack is very
different from the reality, ashore he is like an overgrown
school-boy, the most guileless, harmless creature on earth,
full of frolic, till his pockets are empty. Afloat, his breast
seems the permanent abode of settled melancholy. Jack is
58 INDIAN SKETCHES AND BABBLES.
no more fit to encounter the multiplied villainies of big
cities than a five-year-old child. No one is more easily
imposed upon or less able to protect himself. The captains,
owners, and police in Calcutta seem to be his natural
enemies. He is allowed to wander at his own sweet will
when he steps on shore, and is easily inveigled into the
ginshops, where his pockets are soon emptied, and, when
lying drunk and incapable in the streets, he is at once
l)0uneed on by the police, who simply lie in wait to trade
on his helplessness. I have hoard it said that the constable
receives from the owners eight rupees a head for every arrest
he makes when they want to ship a crew ; this sum is after-
wards deducted from the poor sailor''s pay. True, Jack
is improvident and often vicious, but after being cooped
up for months in a dirty ship, and fed on coarse diet, he is
hardly resj^onsible for his conduct on shore. Ilis one idea
of excitement is getting drunk — a delusion shared, un-
fortiinately, by many of liis better-informed brothers. This
excitement enables him to purchase a brief oblivion from
the monotonous toil of his daily life.
THE VULTURES OF THE SEA.
The sailor takes it amiss to be aslced to work on deck
during the midday sun on the river, the heat being almost
unbearable. The severity he undergoes prompts him to
desert, and he cheerfully thanks the magistrate for sending
him to jail, as a respite from the hardships imposed on
him by his captain. When sent back he is treated to
low diet, lashes, irons, and occasionally shot at like a wolf.
THE MERCANTILE MARINE. 59
as we had lately an example. The tyranny practised, by a
brutal captain is rarely reported, but it exists as a palpable
fact even in our day. Now, admitting the justice of the
sentence, for discipline must be maintained, why is it the
tax-payers, and not the ship-owners, are called upon to pay ?
I would give Jack only the range of the maidan, the Eden
Gardens, and would stop the license of the keeper of any
public-house where intoxication is discovered. The Sailors'
Home in Calcutta is not popular, I have nothing to say
in its favour. Instructions might also be given to our
able-bodied police to prevent Jack from falling into tempta-
tion, and the bonus to policemen for making arrests, miglit
well be abolished. The expense of Jack's imprisonment
should fall entirely on those who employ his services, and
not on the over-burdened tax-payer. The testimony of the
Governor of the Presidency Jail is on my side, and it also
shows that the captains and owners are not the immaculate
body which one of the newspapers has endeavoured to prove.
Thank Heaven ! there are gentlemen on the Bench —
English gentlemen to whom the traditions of their country
are still dear, and wlio know to whom England is most
indebted. To these I appeal on behalf of the mercantile
marine : stop the sailor from being drugged by the publican,
disgraced by the police, starved by the captain, and legally
plundered by the owners. Have pity on these poor Britons,
away from their country, who drink and swear and are
flung info prison — who carry the flag of England into
every land, who have made her name glorious.
CHAPTER IX.
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL.
A PALE mist overshadowed the maidan, making the distant
spires of the High Court and the masts of the ships seem
like a landscape in sepia. The soft green foliage breathed
a sense of repose, and the grass looked refreshed after the
late heavy downpom*, which was only a modest sip to the
parched plain. The air was close, for the sun went on
burning monotonously behind the thin coating of mist.
To-morrow King Sol will blaze out in all his fierceness, as
if starting for a journey through Equatorial Africa. Far
behind, on the borders of the Eden Gardens, the inevitable
football players continue their sport — seven games a day for
seven days a week does not abate the zeal of the athletes ;
on the other side Whiteaway and Laidlaw, in a fever of
commercial activity, have plastered their windows with,
crockery to tempt purchasers, while cheap sales all over the
town mark the close of the summer season,
ON THE WAV.
The drive to the General Hospital is straight across the
maidan. Between a fine avenue of trees, over a thick greeu
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL. GI
sward, the old Cathedral lifts a single finger pointing to
heaven and saving. "Blessed be the Lord for His bounty !
Come hither and give thanks beside me." The scene reminds
me of one of the avenues of Hampton Court, that ghost-
haunted aristocratic union, now devoted to decayed sprigs
of the nobility — the once magnificent present to royalty
of the haughty Cardinal whom Shakespeare reproached witli
serving the earthly with more fervour than the heavenly
master. Not far from the Cathedral stand the brown walls
of the Presidency Jail. A prisoner in heavy irons, guarded
by a turbaned soldier armed to the teeth, is in evidence.
The manacled figure accentuates the situation, as a solitary
angler on the bend of a river gives a human aspect to a
country scene. Close to the jail are three blocks of building
fronting the magnificent park, with the race-stand like a
spider's web in the distance. The grounds on which these
three blocks stand, once formed the site of the garden-house
of some rich dweller in Calcutta, but were purchased by the
Government for the General Hospital in tlie last century.
ADMISSION.
I have gone over the hospital, talked to tlie patients, and
inspected the place. I will trace the successive steps by
which a person may become an inmate of this useful insti-
tution. Admission is sought at the gate of the central
building, where the assistant surgeon questions the applicant,
and fills 'Up a ticket. Payments are made for ten days in
advance, the ward-master giving a receipt for tlie money.
The patient is then handed over to a bearer, who pilots him
62 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
to the quarters assigned liim by the nurse. The charges are
Rs, 5 a day for a double room, down to Es. 3 and Rs. 2
respectively for single rooms, according to accomodation.
There are also special quarters for infectious diseases. The
Jiospital is open to Europeans of all classes.
THE SICK WARD.
These formalities complied with, the patient makes him-
self as comfortable as he can in his new quarters. His room
is supplied with a spring bed, a punkah, a small cupboard
surmounted by a looking-glass, a table ynth jug and basin, a
towel-horse, and water-bottle ; while in tlie corner, up to its
ankles in insulators filled with water, and looking proud of
its position, stands a tall meat-safe. This formidable and
unexpected article of social economy completes the furniture
of the room.
Outside the door of the apartment, extending the whole
length of the building, is a spacious verandah, the most
valuable feature of the house. Here the punkah-wallah
plies his monotonous calling, or lies prone on the floor ;
his spare, swarthy figure is found all over the corridors and
j'assages, as if poured out of a jug. Through the rooms
and halls are cheap specimens of art, horrid German
chromos that are reeled off by the thousand. I have found
them everywhere, in a Buddhist vihara and in the hall of a
Kandyan chief.
WHITE-ROBED ANGELS.
There are four sisters of the community of S. John the
Baptist connected with the hospital. Their work is simply
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL. C3
invaluable. Not only do they see that the nurses do their
duty, but tliey couie and cheer the patients with loving
words of sympathy. It is due to their untiring exertions
that many of the rooms are furnished and made comfort-
able ; the Government supplies medicine, cheap diet, and
nothing else. What a blessing to afflicted humanity are
these sisters of various orders ! Often have I seen a poor
soldier, whose eyes were glazing in death, brighten up
like the flicker of a candle and bless them with his dying
breath. I am old enough also to remember the hired nurse
of Mrs. Gamp class. During the weary hours of night
she used to refresh herself from a black bottle, draw the
pillow from under my head, and prop herself up with it in
an easy chair before going to sleep ; and next day, when
1 complained to the doctor, she used to exclaim, with
audacious effrontery, *' Dear me, how the young gentleman
wanders !" All that has passed away, and the refined
women who elect this work are the truest angels of this
world.
THE ROUTINE.
I must ask the reader to step back with me to the
patient just settled in his room. His first visitor is the
assistant surgeon, who has studied his card and made
himself acquainted with his complaint. He is followed by
tlie contractor, who inquires what food has been ordered,
and supplies the necessaries as stated on the card. The
patient, of course, can bring his servant and supply his
own wants. Any time between 11 and 2 he may expect a
64 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
visit from the surgeon superintendent. The arrival of
this great man, the autocrat of the house, constitutes
the event of the day. As soon as he approaches, all the
patients who are able to get about, scuttle back to bed
like a set of schoolboys, and assume a gravity befitting
their disorder. The doctor is accompanied by the assistant
surgeon, dresser, nurse, sweeper, and occasionally, by a sister.
After making the usual inquiry, in the blandest of voices,
" How are we to-day ?" with an occasional examination, he
passes on to the next room, and the train follows. After
this the patient is left in peace for another twenty-four
hours. The chief having visited the wards, writes certi-
ficates in the office, looks into the operating-room, and then
gets into his carriage, and drives off. His departure is the
signal for a general relaxation of all the official staff.
THE AFTER-HOURS.
At 2 o'clock dinner is served. The patient then rests
for a while under the punkah, to the frill of which he has
ingeniously attached a towel, in order to create a larger
current of air. At 5 o'clock those who can sit up repair
to the south verandah to lounge in long chairs, and see
friends, who generally drop in at this hour for a chat. The
gas-lamps are all lowered at 8-30, and the patients retire
for the night.
VOICES OF THE NIGHT.
For the first hour or two the punkah goes orl steadily
fanning the fevered brow of the invalid. Gradually the
mpvement becomes intermittent, and finally ceases, while
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL. 65
shouts, and angry complaints arise. It will be remembered
that the hospital stands adjacent to the Lunatic Asyluni,
Jail, and Zoological Garden. When night throws her
black sheet over the world, tlie period of strange sounds
and noises come in, and the sense of hearing becomes
abnovmally acute. It is then that the vital energies are at
their lowest, the time when Death gathers in his human
harvest more abundantly. Often at this period the roar ui
the lion, the shriek of tlie lunatic, and the groan of the
dying pierces the silence of the sick ward. India is the
land of sounds and strange noises, where perfect silence is
never found. The punkah-wallah, like tlie cicada, silent
through the day, at night allows liis tongue to go on in a
ceaseless babble, often crooning some dismal chant which
produces in the European, symptoms akin to sea-sickness.
Night is the heaviest time to the invalid, but, like other
disagreeables, it is at last got through, and a new day is
born, when the same routine is repeated.
THE DEAD HOUSE.
The nurses and sisters have a separate block to live
in, joined to the main building by a covered passage.
Opposite this causeway is a square ivy-clad box called the
chapel, and behind it, muffled in thick ever-greens, is a
pretty little building, holding back unobtrusively, as if
apologising for its presence. This is known as the Dead
House, where patients who have no furthur use for luggage
or tickets are removed quietly at all hours by a couple of
men with a stretcher. The funeral takes place immediately
66 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
winding slowly before the verandah, and throwing an un-
necessary gloom over the poor patients. I would strongly
recommend the authorities to open a passage at the back,
so as to save the sick from being shocked by tlie ghastly
procession. The dead man's room is whitewashed up to six
feet from the floor ; and after this the preparation for the
next occupant is complete.
THE ASSISTANT-SURGEON.
Just as one of the patients was sounding his praise
Mr. Allison came up, and I was introduced. A tall, spare
man, with full beard and kindly grey eyes. There were
marks of obstinate labour and patient thought on every
line of his somewhat delicate face, which long years and
struggle with adverse circumstances had ploughed across
his massive forehead. A slight glance was enough to show
that the assistant surgeon deserved his popularity, for his
kingdom " is not of this world.'* In the open ward were a
lot of time-gnawed old fellows, who assured me that they
were content with their treatment. There were also, if my
eyes don't deceive me several of the genius loafer, men who
have slipped down in the race and whom angels or Gods
can never raise. While paying my respects to the sister in
charge I asked what I could do for her. " I want Rs. 200
very badly," she rephed, " I have two poor people who
have spent all their little earnings. I want to send them
Jiway." This sweet-souled woman has no thought for
h.-rself, but for those who have fallen. Will any of my
Indian reaflers send her a cheque ? This is the season of
THE GENERAL HOSPITAL. 67
lavish expenditure and hospitality. I don't much believe
in subscribing to charities, which is like paying a priest to
say your prayers for you. Better go yourself with the
silver pill in your hand and get all the good you can out of
the transaction. Your words will sound glorious ; if not,
inist the sister with the money. Let me remind my affluent
Christian brothers and sisters of a passage from that old
book which stands at the head of the library : "He that
giveth to the poor lendeth to the Lord." And there is a
promise attached. Well, you see the condition of the loan,
and if you are satisfied with the security, down with the
rupees.
k
CHAPTER X.
THE MUNICIPAL MARKET.
The City of Palaces, despite its splendid, park and statel_y
river, unlike any of the great European capitals, lias
but few places of importance to interest the visitor. The
bacillus hunter, the microbe catcher, and the connoisseur
in smells finds Calcutta a rich field for observation and
experiment — so much so that learned doctors and scientists
from England and Russia come here to lecture. Calcutta
is growing proud of its capacity to inflict humanity with ;i
crop of diseases which no other city in the world can
furnish. As a healthy object of interest the Municipal
Market holds the first place. For this institution, the
town is indebted to the late Sir Stuart Hogg, Chairman of
the former Justices of the Peace, who, in course of time.,
were converted into Municipal Commissioners.
THE OLD MARKET.
The ground on which the present market litands wa?
formerly covered with a crop of kintals, bustees, shoemakers'
stalls, and stables for goats and horses. Samples of this
THE MUNICIPAL MARKET. 69
!j;TOwth are still to be found liberally scattered over the city,
and jealously preserved to assist medical investigation.
The present market was opened in 1872, and the site,
including that of the Municipal Buildings, was purchased
at a cost of seven lakhs of rupees. The old market was
situated in DhurrumtoUah, on the site of the Parsee
Theatre, and the premises of Messrs. Leslie and Co., and
Sir Stuart first endeavoured to supplant it by opening a
■market on the ground now occupied by the Campbell
Hospital at Sealdah ; but this locality was found to be too
far way from the centres of Europeans, and the market
was closed when the present one was opened,
A BENGALEE NOT WITHOUT GUILE.
The DhurrumtoUah market belonged to a private
owner, who had a keen eye for a bargain. As soon as he
ascertained tliat a new market was in contemplation, he
obtained long leases from his tenants, and those who dis-
regarded these engagements and went to the new market
were sold up. Eventually, to secure stall-keepers for the
new market, the Justices bought out the private owner for
the trifling sum of seven lakhs. Consequently, to secure
the new market, the Municipality was heavily burdened by
the sum of fourteen lakhs. The move, however, was in the
right direction, the market has proved a convenience to the
public, a distinct advantage to the industrious stall-keepers,
and a property which, even in the dull months of the year,
yields an income of Rs. 11,000 per mensem. The intention
is not to rack-rent or charge the higliest sum for a stall, but
70 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
to get those who have anything to sell, to come in. In the
hardware and dry-goods department a vacant 3tall is put
np to the highest bidder, but this rule does not apply to
meat, fish, or perishable commodities. The Commissioners
fix a reasonable and moderate charge, enough to create
a healthy competition. All stalls in the buildings an;
assessed every day, Sundays and holidays excepted, and
the money is sent into the Municipal Office. There are
about 800 stalls, besides 115 godowns or shops, the market
being a general focus for trade.
THE STRUCTURE,
The building is of red brick, with a picturesque number
of gables and towers. There is a wide open space in front
for cars and carriages, a fountain which plays languidly,
and a number of crows and kites who wheel and circle round
the building on duty. The kite is the only creature in
India that is indifferent to rain ; during the heaviest down-
pour, each of the towers has its kite who stretches his
wings, and actually shrieks with delight in a thin tricklint;
voice. Fronting the streets are stalLi offering a miscell-
aneous collection of whips, helmets, toys, and second hand
books, from the immortal verse of Milton to the mortal
prose of the railway novel. Here a littlo cleanliness would
be a decided advantage.
FISH.
If the reader will now follow me, I shall do myself the
honour of taking him over the market. In those larg*'
, brown jars of various sizes you will find butter, from pale
THE MUNICIPAL MARKET. 71
gold up to what has a suspicious resemblance to candle
grease. Poor purchasers take away small quantities wrapped
in plantain leaves. No cleaner vehicle can be employed.
It is much better than paper, I have eaten many a meal
out of a plantain dish in Ceylon. It is said that beer
tastes best out of pewter. I affirm that rice and broiled
fish taste best from plantain leaves. The fastidious purchaser
may object to the scanty costume of the butter vendor.
This is entirely a matter of taste. Leaving the butter
stalls, you get a glimpse of crisp beautiful loaves that recall
a school-boy's appetite, pink balls of Dutch cheese and huge
wedges of the same, the colour of soap, flanked by chutnies
and pickles in bottles. Advancing further the fish vendors
of both sexes shout and roar with an energy and impudence
that would do credit to Billingsgate. The women are
draped in white, with gold bracelets on their fine arms, and
bed curtain rings of the same metal in their noses. Fancy,
kissing a woman Avith such an impediment ; but women
in the East never kiss even their children. The fish does
not look inviting, nor are their colours as attractive as i))
Ceylon, where the fishes cover themselves with all the hues
of the rainbow. Here they are exhibited in creels, their
heads arranged in a row round the rim with mouths open.
This may be an expression of open-mouthed amazement at
being drenched with water to make them look young. Or,
perhaps, the open mouth indicated an unspoken speech
to certain uninviting shrimps on the next stall, horrid
creatures who look as if they came straight from the
bottom of the Black Sea.
72 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
The stalls on one side are labelled Miittou and Goat,
and on the other Beef. The latter is excellent in quality,
especially during the cold months. No stall-fed animals
come to the shambles in Calcutta ; the beef is the flesh of
cows which have run dry of milk, these animals having in
life been well-fed to give the milk a greater consistency,
Avhich helps adulteration. But after the abominable ^j/tooA-a
process, the interior of the cow gets so injured that she
ceases to bear a calf. As soon as the cow gives no milk
she is sent to be solid, and eagerly bought up by the
butchers. There are over a hundred tables for meat in the
market.
This is not the best season, but the display is really
excellent, differing vastly from that of Covent Garden or any
of the French markets. A glance down the stalls presents
a mass of picturesque colour. On benches are deposited a
number of baskets of brown nuts of all sizes and shapes,
walnuts, almonds, Brazilian nuts, currants and raisins,
with a cloud of metallic flies. Interspersed on those heaps
are small baskets of oranges, limes, pomegranates, and
fruits resembling yellow plums, the whole presenting a
choice array of colour, from rich gold to Vandyke brown.
The Oriental is tolerant of dirt, but keenly alive to artistic
effects. On the other side of this long bench of' dainties
is to be seen a profusion of green and yellow fruit. Long
poles are suspended over the stalls, festooned with plantains^
THE MUNICIPAL MARKET. 73
^)ale green and dead gold. There are alr^o hampers of dark
•<)ranges, and monster pumaloes in heaps, labelled with the
names of the vendor, and bearing the announcement that
" tickets will be torn off on taste" — a wise provision, lest
any one might incur indigestion by rashly swallowing the
labels. I noticed some veiy white-looking apples. Neither
the apple nor the English girl suits the blazing sun of the
tropics. Both get white and fade rapidly. Here is a case
in evidence. A lovely English girl, tall, graceful and fair ;
lier cheeks are as pale as a wax statue, but her eyes are
liquid and lustrous like water in starlight, the windows of a
soul full of innocence and gaiety ; her white teeth are like
a flash of surprise as she talked to her companion. There
is a fine athletic young Englishman watching her move-
ments with evident admiration. She has shot one glance
at him which touches him like fire. And he follows her
with his gaze dumbly soliciting another glance as a man
holds out his glass to be refilled. What poor fellow could
resist those eyes ?
The fruit and vegetable ai-e lying about in heaps :
I'ucumbers, beans, brinjals, glistening purple like new shot
from Woolwich, pumkins, yams, sweet potatoes, hampers of
rusty brown onions, and white ones resembling Spanish
garlic. There are other esculents, pink, saffron, and umber,
together with various curry-stuffs, rose, pink, and parrot-
i^reen. One counter was loaded with small bags of flour,
the vendors looking pale and ashy, as if manufactured out of
their own material. At the end of the passage was a fowl
range, cramped and deficient in space. Here were all sort^
74 IXDTAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
of birds, the tiny wax-bill, pigeon, guinea-fowl, parrot, down
to the domestic rooster and clacking duck ; while poor little
singing birds chattered mournfully in their exile, dreaming
of the woods and forests they will never see again.
FLOWERS.
At the head of the fruit market stand the flower stalls.
Here are some lovely roses, pink, yellow, and red, while the
magnificent white lotus holds the place of honour. This is
the noblest flower in the East : its snowy purity conveys ii
sense of repose like a benediction, while its hallowed sweet-
ness is enhanced by sprigs of green intermingled with the
delicate fronds of maidenhair fern. Tiny sunflowers, witli
black and yellow faces, looked mirthfully from pots of water
where they were reposing. A boy perched on his heels is
doing what the sun in the heavens failed to do — ripening'
the closed leaves of a brilliant red lotus. With deft fingers
the act is done. How sweet are all these fragile delicate
things ! What memories, sad but sweet, do they ref.-tll I
In truth their beauty makes one glad.
VISITORS.
The market is the resort of purchasers, and also one of
the clustering spots where men and women recreate them-
selves, especially on Sundays. The types are varioMs.
Among the fowls, I notice the tired boarding-house-keeper
with a face like a battered stage on which the scenery is
always shifting ; here she is in her element, oheapeninK
articles. Among the cheese and curries is a middle-aged
^>achelor, face close-shaved, red, and nose slightly pur})le :
THE MUNICIPAL MARKET. lb
this, as everybody know^:, is caused by early rising and cios<!
attention to the desk, and has absolutely no connection with
the mixture called " pegs." He evidently does his own
marketing, and drinks nothing but cold grog without sugar.
There is an old lady buying eggs. Look at her. She has
a bag in one hand, and a fan in the other ; her spectacles
are blue-tinted : her skirt is carefully pruned back for con-
venience ; and she has a good deal of small affability which
she squanders in smiles ; yet she is as knowing as a young
cat, and in astuteness would be a match for the Commis-
sioner of Police. At a flower-stall, selecting something for
his button-hole, is a warrior hard as nails and extremely
gallant. His eyes are fastened on a bevy of pretty Eura-
sian girls, chirpy as the sparrows the Lord feeds, and no less
restless of movement and tongue. There goes a handsome
young Armenian lady, with a round fresh face of great
delicacy and beauty, her fingers covered with valuable rings.
Look how she toitches the balloon-like expansion on either
side of her corsage which la mode calls sleeves. They give;
her the appearance of a grenadier. The human vegetables
add considerably to the interest of the market.
THE GENIUS LOCI.
For much of all this information I am indebted to .M i .
Jones, the genius loci of the market. Its well-being is
largely due to his care, judgment, and good sense. Thf
stall-keepers, especially the poor, regard him as a father and
sympathetic friend. Mr. Jones requested me not to
mention his name, but in justice to himself and the pujilic
76 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
[ cannot comply with his request. For nearly twenty-five
years he has served the public faithfully and with credit.
He will shortly be claiming his pension and retiring. I
hope the Commissioners will mark their sense of approval
by giving him a liberal pension and handsome testimonial.
If we are to secure the best man for any post, we ought to
convince the public that we know how to part with and
i-eward, those who have done their work. There is no
other way to raise the moral currency, and to this both the
individual and the corporate body are bound to contribute
•their share.
CHAPTER XI.
CEYLON AND ITS GEMS.
Tradition has it that the gemming industry was first
established by a peculiar people called "Mookars," who were
probably a race of Malabarese. They were under the control
and guidance of a woman, called Mookery, and their efforts
were so successful that within a short space of time they
accumulated a large quantity of treasure, with which they
loaded a ship and departed from the Island. But they were
not destined to reap the fruits of their toil, for, having
incurred the anger of an evil demon, tlieir ship was, by his
influence, totally wrecked, and the treasures were washed
ashore and dej)Osited anew in various directions. To this
the natives attribute the fact that gems are occasionally
found in the most unlikely places.
THE GEM DISTRICT.
The most valuable gems found in Ceylon, and, parti-
cularly ill the Sabaragamuwa District, are the inby, the
the sapphire, and the cats' eye — this last being much prized
by Asiatics and especially by the Malays. Stones of httlc
78 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
value, sucli as the garnet, moonstone, tourmaline, topaz,
spinel and amethyst are to be had in abundance. The
zircoon, in rich shades of brown, violet and green, with its
members the grayish white and white jargoon, and the red
liyacinth, is found in greater quantities than in any other
country. It is in Ceylon that the unwary globe-trotter has
to be on liis guard, as with the desire of becoming the
envied possessor of a fine diamond or ruby, he not unoften
becomes the prey of the designing " Tamby" or Moorman,
who palms off as a diamond of the purest water a valueless
zircoon, or as a ruby a worthless spinel, garnet, hyacinth
or even quartz. It may be noted that a true ruby will
scratch any of these counterfeits. Notwithstanding this
abundance, it is not possible owing to the system under
which the industry has been worked, to fiK with any degree
of accuracy, the annul value of the gems unearthed. The
Customs' registers are not reliable, for out of the many
valuable gems found, some are retained in the Island, and
others are purchased for nominal sums by private persons
and speculators, the real values of which are not, if ever,
known until they are disposed of in Europe or to some of
the wealthy princes in India. A rough calculation, however,
based on the best available data, gives the value of the
]>recioas stones found at about £15,000 to 20,000 annually.
THE MOST VALUABLE.
The ruby is of most value, and has at times secured the
liighest prices. Rejecting as a traveller's tale the assertion
of Marco Polo, that lie saw a Ceylon ruby the size of a
CEYLON AND ITS GEMS 79
luna'a aria, it may be iateresting to recall 'what is related of
aaubher Ceylon ruby, in connection with the part played
uawittingly, in the rise of a family that was of note in a
subsequent period in the history of the Dutch Republic.
A "Chetty" physician became the owner of a large ruby,
said to have been the size of a small curry-stuff grinding
stotie. Cutting it into pieces, and retaining the larger
poi'tions, he presented the Dutch Governor of Colombo,
Lmhoff, with eighteen buttons set with the smaller pieces.
Imhoff, not unmindful of gratitude, promptly exalted the
donor to the proud position of first Malabar Mudalyar of
the Gate, a title of honour still retained, and about equi-
valent to a Lord Lieutenancy of a county in England. This
rise in rank, however, stirred into restless action the dormant
•atergies of the Chetty. The Governor was at last glad to
get rid of iiis protege by transforming him into a dignitary
learned in tlte law, and presenting him with a seat as (Fudge
rtf the Supreme Court in Java. This gentleman was
grandfather to Dr. Quint Ondaatjee, alluded to in AlUson's
"Historjof Europe," as the "Great Democratic Leader,"
of hx9 day. Whatever, might have been the value attached
to the Ceylon rubies in the past or the present, it should be
noted that really valuable ones have always been scarce, and
they cannot vie in comparison with some Burmese specimens.
Two of the latter were sent to London in 1875,
;^7 and 47 1-16 carats. These were reduced after recuttinsr
to 32 5-1$ and 39 9-16 carats, respectively, and the former
of them was sold for £10,000. What become of them
esfentually it would be interesting to ascertain, as possibly
80 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
no single regalia in Europe contains two such fine rubies.
Originally they belonged to the King of Burmah, but impec-
uniosity and the chronic state of " hard-up-edness" prevail-
ing at that court led to their disposal. This was not an
easy matter to achieve, for the people were proud of their
possession, and resented tlie idea of their being sent out of
the country. Strategy and military force were brought
into play, and with a strong guard and amidst intenst-
excitement they were conveyed to the vessel that Avas fc
bear them away to their destination.
THE SAPPHIRE.
In Ceylon, while really valuable rubies are rare, and
sapphires common, the converse prevails in Burma. StilL
of the sapphires a few splendid specimens have been-
unearthed, and mention might be made of one in the
collection that was sent by the Colony to the Paris Exhi-
bition in 1855, which was valued at £5,000. Notwith-
standing the hardness of its nature, the sapphire can be
beautifully engraved, and in the Cabinet of Strossi in
Rome, may be seen one, with profile of Hercules, the work
of Ceueius, The cat's-eye, too, is occasionally of some
value, as instance, the one that was in the collection of the
last King of Kandy, which sold in London in 1820 for
more than £400. This specimen measured two inches in
diameter.
Though tradition speaks of the " Mookarg" as the
pioneers of the gemming industry in Ceylon, it is silent
as to their methods of work. How far it resembled the
CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 81
practice adopted by the natives at the present time, of
which an account is here furnished, cannot be known.
The sites selected for prospecting are cither the beds of
streams or the dry Land in their vicinity, and as thegemmer
needs but few appliances, he is not handicapped by much
initial outlay. These appliances consist of a few crowbars,
a mamotee, a long iron sounding rod, "Illankoora," and
a close basket made of split bamboo reeds.
METHOD OF WORK.
Thus ecjuipped, the gemmer, if the site selected is the
bed of a stream, commences operations in the dry season
(December to March), when the water is low and sluggish.
He first clears the sand away, and from time to time uses
the sounding rod to see whether the gravel or "illan,"
hence the name of the rod, is accessible. In getting to
this "illan," the matrix in which the gems are found, his
efforts are sometimes retarded by impediments in the form
of blocks of rock, and invariably by a sort of crust, called,
" Cabooa " which has to be penetrated, as it is commonly
under this crust that the " illan" lies. On reaching this
stage, and wlien the gravel is exposed, the coolies, who
liave hitherto been assisting the gemmers, are promptly
sent away, as none but the initiated and those vitally
interested in the success of tlie undertaking, are allowed
to be present at the further development of the search.
The gravd is now scooped out by means of the mamotees,
and is deposited in the wicker basket, held under water
with the feet. The basket thus secured, the " illan" in it
82 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
is rotated with a quick motion, by which means the clay
is dissolved and the lighter particles of stone, and, from
time to time, the larger ones, if after due inspection they
are worthless, are thrown cut. The whole is thus reduced
to what is termed " nabooa," a thin heavy sand, mostly
composed of particles of precious stones, which on careful
scrutiny are secured.
Much similar to this is the process when the site for
search is on dry land near a stream, the season for work
being the same. Here the earth is removed to the level of
the water, and when it becomes soft, the sounding rod is
brought into requisition. So deftly is this used in the
liands of an experienced worker, that he is seldom misled
as to whether the " illan" is within practicable depth.
The result being satisfactory, an anxious moment ensues,
for the gemmer has to guard, with redoubled vigour,
against an influx of water. The soft sand being removed,
the "illan" is readily come upon, should there be no
"cabooa" to break through, and, by means of the crowbar,
it is detached and heaped up for washing, either in the pit
itself, if there is not much water in it, or in the adjacent
shallow stream. To facilitate labour, the whole of the pit
is not gemmed at once. Only one-half of the earth is
removed, a flight of steps being constructed in the other
half to expedite the removal of the earth and the baling
out of the water. This half being exhausted, room is
afforded for the earth on its removal from th'e remaining
half, which is then in its turn operated on. The " illan" on
*bcing heaped up undergoes the process already described.
CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 83
A DOUliTFUL INDUSTIIV,
Simple and primitive as the process of gemming
/appears, it is in the majority of instances disappointing
in tlie extreme, when the tangible benefits derived are
compared with the great amount of labour involved. The
sites and directions in which gems are imbedded are very
•uncertain and quite unknown, and though in some cases
pits are workable in a few days, in others, days, months,
and sometimes years, elapse before the matrix which contains
the pi'ecious stones is discovered. But the reward of toil
may not be here, for the matrix may not yield a sufficiency
of gems, even of the smallest value, to show a profit or
even to cover the expenses. From enquiries the writer
has instituted, it may be taken as substantiated, that of
every ten pits sunk only one is found to pay. That not-
withstanding these facts, the industry should have been
engaged in by the poorer class of natives, shows how hard
a struggle for life they have to encounter.
During the reign of the Kandyan Kings, caste prevailed
and was rigidly observed, once a barber always a barber, was
the rule ; the inhabitants of certain villages were exclusively
devoted to gemming. A body of hereditary gem men, with
two headmen, also hereditary, to superintend the establish-
ment, was thus formed. This practice died out on the
advent of the British Government, and the gemming
industry became open to all sorts and conditions of men.
A CRUEL LAW.
For the past fifty years, the industry has been pursued by
& number of poor people whose sole bubsistence depended'
84 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
on tins precarious industry. Others agcain, mostly agricul-
turists, resorted to gemming to eke out what the cultivation
of " paddy" did not always afford them, so as to save
themselves from absolute starvation. While thus affording
relief, a system of joint-stock on a small scale, between
expert gemmers and landowners, introducing speculation,
gradually crept in. In course of time the attention of
European speculators, forming themselves into companies,
was drawn to it, leading to the investment of larger capital.
Up to the time of the formation of these companies,
the natives were unrestricted in their efforts at gemming,
the only places they were not allowed to exploit without
licenses being Crown waste lands. The advent of European
capital caused the Government to step in, in the early part
of last year, with the enactment of an ordinance, that with
one fell swoop did away with all the privileges hitherto
enjoyed by the indigenous population. The features of this
ordinance may be briefly summarised. It enacts that a fee
of Rs. 5 is payable, a license for every pit opened, in
whatever localit.//, the number of men employed on each
pit being fixed, for each of whom a sum of 75 cents,
or 12 annas, for a term of three months is charged. The
specially hard feature lies here, if the number of persons
when the license is issued should be 26, and then more
happen to be added, the license can be cancelled by Govern-
ment, and each extra man so employed fined Rs. 50, or in
default undergo six months' imprisonment.
This is a most unreasonable clause and its execution has
•had the effect of preventing the poor people to the number
CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 85
of 20,000 from in any way devoting their attention to
gemming. It not unfrequcntly happens that with a sndden
influx of water into the jtit an increased strength of hibour
is absolutely necessary for baling purposes, if all the efforts
already put forth are not to be frustrated. As has been
shown, any excess of labour involves a heavy penalty, un-
less it has been duly applied for and a fresh license obtained,
a matter involving a delay of, say, four days, if not more,
as a number of formalities have to be undergone, including
tlie drawing up of a report as to the altered circumstances
of the pit, by the village headman, an unpaid native official.
The ordinance appears to have been drafted on the
assumption that the Crown, as successors to the Kand\'an
Kings, has a prerogative right to gems, even on prirate
lands. That such a right was ever exercised liy those
sovereigns is doubtful, and is not clearly established. The
claim now made has been lost sight of for years, and is
only lately put forward.
But not content with these rights, the Government goes
further and seeks to establish similar claim on lauds which
it itself previously sold expressly as gem lands for high
and fancy prices. These lands were sold outright to the
present owners, and that they should be called upon to
render to Government a share of the gems found is opposed
to every sense of morality.
Another objection to the ordinance, and a potent one
too, as it involves a clear breach of faith, is that the tax is
enforced on lands belonging to Buddliist temples, and oa
4he villages of Kandyan Chiefs, who assisted the British
86 INDIA N SKE TCHES A ND RA MBL ES.
power iu taking the Kandyan province, whereas by law
these lands were declared free of all tax.
That the ordinance is felt as an extreme hardship by
the people, leading them to transmit a temperately worded
memorial to the Secretary of State for the Colonies, detail-
ing their grievances, is not to be wondered at, and sympathy
cannot be withheld from them in their attempts to gain
redress. The ordinance as it stands has practically killed
the native industry, and leaves it for the present in the
hands of the European speculators who have come on the
scene. The raison d'etre of it really appears to be, that if
capital can be invested freely by foreigners, there must l)e
something enormous to be made out of the industry, and
so the Government thinks fit to have a share. But the
question remains to be solved whether the introduction of
European capital, aided by the most improved appliances
and the latest methods for working gem mines, will develop
it into a remunerative business. There is nothing in th&
past to warrant such a belief, and when it is remembered
that gemming has been openly carried on for years, and
immediately under the eye of shrewd British business men,.
its success, handicapped as it is by an initial tax of 10 per
cent, under the newer auspices, is, to say the least, highly
problematic.
THE MOUNTAIN QUARRY.
Ratnapura and Rakwana are the places where the best
gems are found, though along the road I remarked several
excavations where gemming had been conducted. Some-
CEYLON AND ITS GEMS. 87
very pretty moonstones were shown me, which however
were of little value. From ralmadula to Rakwana is a
distance of sixteen miles up among mountains. At
one side is a deep valley heavily timbered and matted with
luxuriant creepers. I noticed some curious orchids, with
strange pendulous flowers, lianging from the angles of
branches : there stems were covered witli fungi of the
most gaudy colours — bright red, yellow, and purple. The
scarlet shoots of the iron wood tree seemed like flowers in
their blood-red hue. Part of the hill side was literally a
blaze of crimson, looking as if the wood was strewn with
Vermillion. This jungle abounds witli game, wild boar, elk,
red deer, black faced monkeys ; and the whir of copper
Avings indicated flocks of parroquets without number.
Rakwana is a mining village, consisting of one long street,,
looking absurdly small owing to the presence of some mas-
sive iron wood trees and tall palms which dwarf the little
huts at their base. No more than 250 families reside here
under the shadow of a big brown mountain with huge
irregular spurs. Down the side of this mountain trickled a
stream which fell over a rough bed of stones in a succession
of small cataracts, until it got down to the valley when
it slipped along in a placid stream. The river looked like a
frayed string of braid lacing the side of the huge mountain.
One side of the hill was covered with matted jungle and the
other placed under cultivation. The view higher up among
the gleng was very fine. The twin wooden shanty of
the planter stood out on the hill side, while the green tufts
of tea hardly showed on the red brown earth. Down in the
■ 88 lAWTAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
vallej', the hills appeared like miniature hay cocks, under
nu amethyst sky of the loveliest hue. The beauty of this
scene viewed from the glen where the mining operations
take place was lovely, and pathetic in its loveliness. The
plaintive note of a bulbul, who is supposed to have a pas-
sion for the rose and regrets seeing it plucked, communi-
cated a feeling of sadness to my mind as I looked down
from those lofty peaks on the distant plains. A finer view
than the one before me I never beheld.
The miners are an improvident lot. Tunnel-diggers
get an average of Rs. 2 and a half a day, I had a talk
with Mr. Bradley, the Superintendent of the Ceylon Gem
Company, and was courteously led round the pits by
Mr. W. H. vSmart, his assistant, a pleasant and highly
informed gentleman. Gemming in Ceylon does not seem
a profitable speculation. It is hardly worth while investing
money in such a lottery concern.
CHAPTER XII.
THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON.
The fishing grounds are reached by steamer from Colombo,
wliich conveys the visitor to the northern parts of the
island. All the luxuriant foliage, the leafy lanes, the
wonderful growth of palms, creepers and gorgeous llowers
are left behind. The home of the pearl oyster is off a flat
low-lying coast of barren sand. For miles inward towards
tlie interior, the country is sterile and repulsive ; the only
wood that thrives here are the umbrella plant, the cruel
prickly buffalo thorn, and the monstrous " boabab" tree,
whose short-stunted groAvth and ragged branches can with-
stand the strong gusts of wind which sweep over the
desolate sand. This tree was mysteriously imported from
the West Coast of Africa in distant days — a huge shape-
less mass of wood from twenty to thirty feet in circumference,
and very little more in height. The long sweep of desolate
shore has a dreary appearance, and seems a fitting abode
for great crabs, tortoises, and snakes. On those sands,
where the sea-turtle basks in peace, and the solitude is only
broken by tiie wild cry of the seafowl, crowds assemble as
soon as the pearl fisheries begin, and the dreary waste
becomes enlivened by numbers who congregate from the most
90 INDIAN SKETCHES AA'D RAMBLES.
distant parts of India. The shore is raised in many parts
to the height of several feet, by enormous mounds of shell,
the accumulation of ages. Here millions of oyster shells,
robbed of their pearls, have been year after year flung
into heaps that extend a distance of miles. These heaps
shining bright on the beach ad<l to the glare, while the
burning heat of the sand under a noonday sun is almost
unsupportable. The flat shore all round is riddled with
holes by a large ocypodian, who must be terribly surprised
at the invasion of his territory. These huge creatures suffer
from the general barrenness ; their food is scant, for if one
of their number is killed and left on the shore, his fellow-
creatures promptly carry him away into a burrow and
doubtless devour him.
PEARL HUNTERS.
The only inliabitants are a few fishermen, who obtain
a modest living by curing sharks and other bony fishes,
finding a market for their poor stock in the forlorn peninsula
of Jaffna. Hope is kept aUve in their breasts by washing
out the forsaken " Kottus," in search for pearls, lost by the
gleaners of other days. The inhospitable shore is further
haunted by sharks, sea-eagles, and black and yellow snakes-
that frequently dot the surface of the water over tlie
oyster banks. A pitiless Sun flings down burning rays on
the shifting sands, and over its surface sweep clouds of big,
red-eyed, blue-bottle flies, helping the process (\f putrefac-
tion : the pearl is not removed till after the fish has decayed.
At Maviecha Khadl I found hundreds of half-naked Arabs,
THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 91
yellow skinned Moors, Afghans, Malays, Tamils, and
Singhalese divers, traders, pedlers, fakeers, conjurers, a
heterogeneous mixture of thousands of different colours,
castes and occupations. On the shore, a large town had
sprung up, consisting of tents, cadjan huts, bazaars, and the
rudest edifices. The roofs of these temporary dwellings
presented an unusual spectacle, every imaginable article of
clothing was spread thereon to dry : cloths, turbans and
jackets of every possible sliape and colour. In front of
the huts were mats, on which were heaps of black-looking
earth. Watching these carefull}', were seated greasy Chet-
ties with massive bed curtain rings of gold in their ears,
and sleek Moors, with cold calculating eyes, almost nude ;
the attention of all observers were directed to the operations
going on before them. Tiiis work was being undertaken by
women and children, who were busy sifting the heaps con-
sisting of shells, sand, and all the filth that remained after
washing the putrid flesh of the oysters on their removal froni
the shells, in search of any of the remaining precious pearls.
The pestilential smell of putrefying fish poisoned the air
and became most offensive when the wind blew from tin*
south. The putrefaction of millions of oysters generates an
immense amount of worms, flies, mosquitoes and vermin of
all sorts. To guard against disease, a hospital and medical
men were provided, and a rigid scrutiny is made of all tlie
arrivals to guard against infection. Every precaution to
prevent oholera or small-pox patients coming from other
parts of the island is also adopted, for Ceylon at present
has not a clean bill of health.
92 mDFAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
HOW THE WORK IS I>ONE.
The divers are mostly Moormen and Tamils, with a few
Arabs from the Persian Gulf, a brave hardy race of men, of
a speculative turn, who betake themselves year after year to
this hazardous occupation. They usually come in common
lighters, eight or ten tons in burden, such as commonly
convey cargo to ships, using both sails and oars ; each boat
lias a complement generally of twenty-one men, with five
diving stones for ten divers. The usual equipment is
very simple ; a'.i open scaffolding to eacli boat from which
the tackle is suspended, and pine-shaped stones of coarse
granite, from 30 to 50 tbs. in weiglit, with a loop attached
to each for receiving the foot ; some divers use half-moon
stones to bind round their waists that the feet may be free.
The diver is also provided with a small basket, or bag,
woven like a net, which he takes down to the bottom
and fills with the oysters as he collects them ; the rope is
attached to his body, the end of which is held by the men
in the boat. This rope he jerks when he wishes to be
drawn, up. While five divers are coming up, five are
preparing to go down. When the diver reaches the bottom,
he throws himself on his face and collects all he can. If
the bank is rich, about 150 oysters can be taken in each
dip ; if, however, the oysters are scattered, not more than
five to ten. The Arab can remain submerged for about
ninety seconds, Avhile the Moor or Tamil rarely' exceeds
seventy seconds. The former wears a nose compressor
but the others scorn the use of any such help. The
THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 93
diving generally begins at sunrise, and continues till the sea
breezes or west winds set in. The liours of work do not
exceed six. The men enjoy the labour as a pleasant pas-
time, and never murmur or complain. The noise of going
down from tlie several boats contiimes without interruption.
From a little distance it resembles the dashing of a cataract.
OUT TO THE BANKS.
When the day advances and sea breezes set in, the
signal is made for the boats to set sail for the shore. It
is a lovely sight to witness a flotilla of about 200 boats,
with white sails set to catch the breeze, lightly skimming
the blue waters in the dazzling sunlight. The oyster
banks are some distance from the shore. As soon as the
keels touch the sand, eager inquiries are made from all sides
as to the results of the day's fishing. The fishing grounds
are marked by buoys over the spots, ornamented with flags
of different colours, giving the waters the festive appearance
of a regatta. In the olden times the Governor visited the
scene accompanied by a military guard armed to the teeth,
to resist any raid from the Kandyan Cliiefs bent on
plunder. The beach from Candatchy Bay to the old fortress
of Areppo is very convenient for boats, the water being dee[)
close to the beach, and not agitated by any surf. When
the signal for work is given at early dawn, the noise and
shouts from those embarking is deafening in its chimour.
Strange prayers are ^recited, hasty ablutions performed, and
the solemn pall of night is pierced with a conglomerate
shout of voices, which to European ears make a din,
94 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
strange and unearthly. The clivers are a superstitious
dass given to charms and extraordinary ceremonies. No
diver will go under water till the shark conjurer has per-
formed his incantations. Once the Government had to
keep two of these functionaries in its pay, to remove the
fear of the divers from their enemies, the sharks. The
conjurer is stripped naked and shut up in a room, where he
mutters his spells in secret from the time of sailing until
the boats return. While this is going on, the natives
believe that the sharks cannot open their mouths. The
water of Ceylon abound with these remorseless pirates of
the deep. Yet strange to say that the number of accidents
in the fishing grounds are very few. If a shark is seen, the
divers make a signal, when all the boats return ; it is not
often, however, this occurs, for, whether it may be the
charm or the multitudes or the noise, few of these monsters
approach the scene during the diving operations. While
at work, no food is taken by the divers according to the
instructions of the magician, else the charm for their
protection is broken. They are, however, allowed unlimited
privileges in drink. This permission is rarely abused by
the divers, who are for the most part abstemious men.
THE SHELLS.
On reaching the shore the boats are made fast, while
the oysters are carried on the heads of boatmen to the
" Kottus" or palisade enclosures on the sand, wiiere thej'
are thrown into heaps. Some boats laud as many as 30,000,
while others onlv five or six hundred. When all the shells
THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 95
are landed under the careful eyes of the overseers, the
whole is divided into heaps, two-thirds going to the Govern-
ment, and one-third to tlie divers. The diving operations
of the present year have proved a great success, exceeding
the expectations of the ofificial inspector. It was estimated
that about 10,000,000 oysters could be available, whereas
the actual number fished has reached 37,810,552, the
Government share of which has realised lis. 8,27,081, at
an average price of Rs. 32-14 per thousand. The highest
])rice obtained has been Rs. 50, and the lowest Rs. 28. The
largest number of boats out on any one day has been 206,
and the lowest 35. A further Rs. 1,00,000 should be
realised by the Government, if the monsoon will only hold
off, as the banks are not nearly exhausted. This is, the
largest sum that the fisheries have ever yielded, and is all
-clear gain to the revenue. I notice from the official state-
ment showing the estimated revenue and expenditure for the
year 1891, that the Pearl Fisheries yielded only Rs. 500 !
At the close of last year's operations, it was authoritatively
disserted that there could be no operations this year, and
the estimate of 10,000,000 oysters above alluded to was
only an afterthought. Surely, the Government can be
better served in a matter of this sort, by having the banks
more carefully surveyed by a competent official. Oysters do
not form pearls in the space of a day or two. It is to
be hoped that all the other estimated figures of the Budget
will not fehrink in the same mysterious way. There is a
great deal of romance about the way public money is dis-
posed of in the East. But no matter.
96 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
The representative of the Government promptly holds
an auction duly summoned by tom-tom, when its share of
oysters in lots of 1,000 each are put up for sale, being
knocked down to the highest bidder. The brokers, jewellers,
and merchants who congregate bid and outbid each other in
the most lively manner. About the same time a great fair
is held, at which articles of all description from India and
elsewhere are sold. A great number of beggars, cripples,
and falceers find their way here. I noticed one of the
latter who was doing penance, for which he wore rouud his
neck a gridiron about a foot and a half long. I was told
this strange ornament was not removed while either eating
or sleeping. There were other loathsome practices exhibited,
too filthy to chronicle. The greatest care was taken to
prevent theft. Yet I was informed that pearls are dex-
terously removed from the shells by means of a stiff pieci'
of brass or bramble.
THE ORIGIJf OF THE PEARL.
The natives think that the pearl is formed from the dew
in connection with the sunbeams when the oyster comes
to the surface to catch the drops of rain. Some think the
pearls are formed as a defence against interior worms, while
others state authoritatively that it is the effect of
disease. I find it is easier to criticise their speculations than
to substitute a more rational theory, which I leave to tlic
reader. Between one hundred and two hundred pearls liave
been found in a single oyster, while sometimes a hundred
may be opened without finding any. The yellow or gold
THE PEARL FISHERIES OF CEYLON. 97
coloured pearl is most prized by the natives. The largest
I saw was about the size of a small pistol bullet ; spotted
pearls are cheap. For a long time it was supposed that the
pearl oyster was anchored to a certain place, and that
the crustacean was incapable of locomotion. More recent
researches prove that it can detach itself from its moorings
and fix its byssus at pleasure, to prevent being carried
away by the current. According to the statement of one
naturalist, an oyster was seen taking a walk round tlie
inside of a " chattie" and mounting the glass side of a
vivarium. Tliey are supposed to change their places a
dozen times in a month.
x\n oyster reaches maturity in its sixth year, and in its
ovaria there are reckoned to be about twelve million eggs.
Owing to its many enemies it is hardly necessary to add
that few of these millions arrive at a mature condition.
This curious family of Crustacea are so human as to be
gregarious in their habits, while they are addicted to night
walking, not however, to be regarded as an aspersion on
their character like that of the human biped, but solely
on account of their enemies, darkness being their best
protection. The pearl oyster is, on the whole, a hardy
creature, capable of living in brackish water, inclined to
leave its moorings if tlie water gets agitated and disgusted
with the conduct of crabs and shrimps, who nibble at its
byssus and compel emigration. Tlie shape of this strange
creature ciJrrying so valuable a treasure is that of an im-
perfect oval, while the inside of its shell resembles a silver
palace more beautiful than the pearl itself.
VII
CHAPTER XIII.
CAWNPORE.
The differenc3 between reading and travelling is that in
the former you have to hunt for ideas, while in the latter
they come to you without trouble. It does not require a
heaven-born genius to jot down what comes under one's
eyes, though it does require both labour and expense to
acquire the knowledge sought for ; besides, in India, people
do not value tlie advantages of publicity, and consequently
exhibit much indifference in furnishing information. I
have encountered this difficulty at the outset of my travels
and feel it my duty to state it.
THE CITY OF KRISHNA
is reached from Calcutta by a long journey rapidly spanned
by the mail-train. The voyage to St. Petersburg is not
more dreary. The vast smoky plains, almost treeless, the
white burnt-up grass, tlie baked mud walk of a few
wretched Indian villages and over all, and above all, the
relentless glare of the sun, deprives the journey of any
CA WNrORE. 99
special interest. The Forest Department of India ruiglit
•ameliorate this by planting more trees in those Avild sad
spaces ; for tliey would afford slielter to cattle and encou-
rage the fall of rain. Tliere are several sandy plains in
Denmark, and the soil in Germanj' is far from uniform ;
the addition of trees, however, has done much to coun-
teract this sterility, which is so apparent in India. From
Allahabad to Cawnpore, the land becomes more wooded,
while the dust also increases, penetrating the nostrils with
a sharp pungent smell the reverse of agreeable. The
E. I. Eailway is well managed, the carriages comfortable,
and the officials courteous and obliging. One of the most
agreeable features of the journey is the refreshment-
rooms provided by Messrs. Kellner and Co. Never has
a cup of tea tasted so well as when the throat is parched
with thirst and the whole human gear set out of tune l^y
heat, noise, glare, and inevitable confusion.
THE TOWX
lias absolutely nothing to recommend it in the shape of
architectural effects. There are the same old crazy wigwam
buildings of mud and wattle, filth bearable, filth unbearal)k',
picturesque poverty, and squalid misery. The grain nuarkct
out of the long dreary street, with the cumbrous native
carts carrying a heavy beam outside the wheels to keep
them from running off, is primitive to a degree. IsToah
might hav5 trundled his dusky daughters to market in such
a concern. There is an entire absence of brightness and
alacrity even in their money dealings. Still, I am informed
100 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
that a good deal of trade is conducted in tliis old world
city. Cawnpore is the railway junction between the East
Indian, the Indian Midland, the Oudh and Rohilkhund,
and the Bombay and Baroda Railways. This benefits the
mills rather than the trade in raw materials, as through
rates from the rocidside stations to the ports have to a large
extent tended to divert the latter. The town is becoming
a sort of Oriental Manchester ; there are already about
forty chimneys belching smoke into the dusty air. What
it will be in the course of years may be surmised. The
feature that strikes a stranger most is the prodigality of
open spaces ; a bank, a club, or a church has a compound
like a small estate. I believe the military cantonment
covers an area of four or five square miles, while every
attempted industry straggles and sprawls to an endless
extent.
THE RIVER.
The Ganges, after all these hundred years running to the
sea, has not made up its mind as to its course : it seems
to delight in breaking fresh ground and leaving on its old
bed mounds of white sand, wliile it slips on in a new line
whenever it gets the chance. Still, it is a noble river, and
one that commands respect. Standing at the Suttee Chowra-
ghat, near the old fisherman's temple, where Wheeler's force
was destroyed by the treacherous Nana Saheb, during the
sad days of the Mutiny, a splendid view is obta'ined. My
mind was far away on a mental journey, while Morgan, my
<jld soldier-guide, was telling me " Here were drawa up a
CAW N PORE. 101
number of country-boats, with a roof of straw to protect
those on board from the sun, while at various points along
the bank guns had been concealed, and men placed in
ambush. There was at that season little water in the river,
so there was considerable delay in getting the boats iioated.
Several had put off, and others were about to follow, when,
suddenly, about 9 a. m., a bugle sounded." I had not
patience for any more ; all the time I was wondering
what the mental machinery of a man must be who goes on
day after day, month after month, relating the story of
treachery, bloodshed, and human misery. Morgan no
doubt felt he was only doing his duty by pouring into me
his bucket of stale news in return for his fee. I could
not deny the old fellow his gratification. Enough to say,
that I saw the "well," with the marble angel keeping watch
over the "fragments" with a pair of wings which trailed
behind lier, and an unmeaning expression on her lips, quite
apart from her clasped hands. This marble woman, with
the strange appendages, cost £6,000, — surely the biggest
price Marochetti ever got for his work, and absurdly dear
at the money. The statue is absolutely devoid of merit ;
but the sentiment which prompted the offering is bej^ond
praise. The place is beautifully kept, and the grounds
extensive and well laid out. Roses and sweet-scented
flowers, with a carefully trimmed plot of grass cover the
mortal remains of our brave brothers who fell on that
memorable* occasion. What gives intensity to this historic
spot is the knowledge that helpless children and women
were mingled with the slain.
102 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
TOMMY ATKINS.
Why go back on tliose old memories fraught with blood
and tears ? Our eyes are turned towards the future, and it
is our duty to educate and le^d those 300 millions in the
paths of peace, industry, and progress. As for those poor
wild birds whose country has cast them off, those men who
drink, drill and march to music, their bones are filling the
grave-yards of Asia. They are the cement which has
bound the bricks of the great Empire on which the sun
never sets ; yet they are of no account ; in a commercial
age it is the financier, the trader, the merchant and the
banker who get both the plums and the decorations. Poor
Tommy is not in it.
AX INCIDENT OF THE SLAIN.
We all are tlie victims of circumstances. 1 unwillingly
visited the handsome Memorial Church, and inspected a
grave close at hand of some who escaped the general'
fate at the boats, but were killed later, down the river.
One name recalled a memory very dear and never to be
forgotten. At a London drawing-room, many years ago,
I made the acquaintance of a lady who, as an infant, was
rescued from the massacre. The name A'^ibart brought back
a rush of thoughts — which carried me far away from the
dusty plains of Cawnpore to a pleasant home near Regents
Park in dear old London.
POVERTY OF THE MASSES. ^
The most noticeable featm'e in India wherever one
goes is the condition of the masses, which is every year
CAWNPORE. 103
becoming more impoverished ; notwitlistanding trade re-
tm'us, Bengal, the richest province is becoming poorer and
the price of food dearer. The condition of the people is the
truest test of a country's wealth or poverty, and judged by
this standard India is a very poor country. Strange as it
may appear, we do not tax India as heavily as the Mogul
Emperors did, yet the straggle for existence was not so
severe then as now. What we take scarcely pays the ex-
pense of the most costly administration in the Avorld.
INDUSTRIES.
There is no lack of industries in Cawnpore ; cotton,
jute, wool and leather have their respective factories.
There is, however, a curious reticence about their work,
which is Oriental in its primitiveness, thougli of- course
there may be good reasons for this privacy. The Govern-
ment Harness Factory employs over ], 500 hands, but
admission to inspect it can only be procured by the
permission of a military officer in Calcutta. This reminds
me of a Yankee, who built a palatial mansion and insisted
on keeping the spittoons in the basement storey. His
visitors, who preferred chewing to smoking, found it an
inconvenience every time they wished to expectorate, as
they had to go downstairs. This caused so serious an
interruption to conversation that the owner of the establish-
ment felt it incumbent to make a change. The Govern-
ment Harness establishment has not yet felt the pinch
of necessity ; perhaps convict labour has something to
do with it. As long as criminals can be secured for the
104 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
labour of the State, one can understand the necessity of
privacy. Mr. Johnson, the courteous managing director
of the Muir Cotton Mills, frankly told me that, owing to
the keen competition prevailing between England and India
in the matter of cotton, he did not care to let the public
know the nature and exact conditions of his work. He,
however, invited me to come and promised that I should be
shown round, warning me, however, that the man delegated
to act as my pilot would be unable to give the information
I was desirous to ascertain. This privilege I declined, for
a dry report of spindles and bobbins would hardly interest
tlie readers of the Statesman, a paper which aims at giving
useful and not merely dry statistical information. I have
not the smallest doubt that 1 could in forty-eight hours
ascertain all the information they are so sedulous to
conceal, were I inclined to do so ; but the game is not
worth the candle.
CHAPTER XIY.
DELHI.
Everyone calls up some picture of a historic place before
he visits it, and in ninety-nine cases out of a hundred the
reality does not come within a hundred miles of the dream,
1 am no exception ; in fact, I prove the rule, for I am
generally quite out in my dream pictures. At four o'clock
this morning I came into the great city of the Mogul
Emperors, -so nothing of its approaches was given me on
which to erect a new picture. As 1 had slept enough on
the journey, I paced the platform impatiently waiting for
the dawn. An agreeable companion presented a fresh
obstruction, so when I started with my guide at 7 o'clock I
had literally no time to indulge in speculations. Now that
it is all over and the name Delhi is no longer a historical
picture, but a solid reality, a fresh territory of knowledge
permanently added to my mental empire, I confess, frankly,
that the old place assumed a totally different aspect to all
my previous conjectures.
106 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
THE TOWN
has a magnificent vestibule in its railway station, which
Avill bear comparison with any European building of the kind
in taste, architecture, and size. It is also close to the great
thoroughfare called Chandni Cliowk, not at all to be con-
founded with its namesake in Calcutta, which bears na
more resemblance to it than an elephant to a rabbit. The
Delhi thoroughfare is a very wide highway, vrith several
strong and substantial commercial buildings on each side,
iilled with a thriving healthy population. I could not help
admiring some fine Rajpoot soldiers on the platform, ideal
sabreurs with firm military hearing and faces that indicated
nobility and good breeding. I also observed a few old
women in trousers, and several dark eyed children with a
profusion of ornaments. In the street were several bullock
A-ans with some of the finest animals I have seen since I
came to the East, grand, noble and of colossal strength.
It is my fancy to believe that these dignified-looking-
animals, so placid and peaceful, ai'o tlie incarnations of
some old Brahmans of a distant age.
THE PALACE OF SHAH JEHAN.
I don't want to do tlie guide-book business, but I
cannot omit to mention the pleasing impression which the-
magnificent palace of this gorgeous Emperor made on me.
It simply filled up to the brim my notion of Oriental
magnificence. Such a building, marble inlaid' with gold,,
satisfied my ideal of wliat tlie palace of an Eastern monarch
must have been. The view from the queen's apartment out
DELHI. 1(17
over the plain, with the Jumna coiling like a silver riliand
in the foreground, was royal in its magnificence. A right
reverend gentleman, ia all the glory of apron and small
clothes was before me, guide-book in hand, examining the
building. What a contrast ! A modern bishop in the
apartments .of an Eastern princess. Tempora, Mores !
No more beautiful sight could gladden the eyes of an
Eastern beauty than the view from the marble palace. At
the rear, outside the fort, the grand Mahomedan temple
with its graceful minarets and grand flight of stairs com-
manded equal attention. At the back of this stately tem^^le
of worship, poor huts and hovels clustered, clinging like
parasites to this grand structure, without in the least
impairing its beauty. Our cathedrals in England and on
the Continent are noble objects of pilgrimage. They are,
however, too crowded and infested with human life, while
few possess that indefinite air of grace and haughty splend-
our which marks the Mahomedan structure.
THE FORT
contains many objects of interest, which are too well known
for description. The massive wall itself commands respect,
while the tattered portion of the liuge structure, near the
Cashmere gate, tells another story. My guide was boiling
over with military incidents which I had great difificulty to
repress ; the names of generals and battles were glib on
liis tongwe, ready to burst forth at the slightest encourage-
ment. He got none from me. The Queen's Gardens,
with its curtained cricket ground, fine trees and green
108 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
sward, was just what vou might expect as a fitting
appanage of an ancient city. It somehow reminded me of
Winchester Archery grounds. The mind has a tendency
towards comparisons, even \/hen none really exist. The
fact is, Delhi is Oriental, Eastern, and unique. In this
respect it stands quite alone in my mind, and will always
be remembered with pleasure. There are several bazaars
with workers in all kinds of curios ; most of the houses
are neat and wholesome looking. I did not notice any
offal, or unsavoury garbage rotting in the streets — a great
contrast to the City of Palaces ! Of course I had time for
only a hurried glance ; but life consists of hurried glances,
short views, and momentary impressions : in the interval
we go out. It is well, then, to fill our minds with even
thumb nail sketches of the world we live in and the condi-
tion of our poor brothers and sisters. I am looking at all
this for the first and last time, for soon I shall be thousands
of miles away from it all ; but what is once seen is never
forgotten.
THE TURKISH BATH
is a weakness of mine. Except the British Museum there
is nothing in the East I missed so much. My first impres-
sion of it was a glimpse of Paradise. I then felt the vul-
garity of clothes and the ineffable joy of spiritual purity.
There is a story told that a Scotchman, after his first
Turkish Bath, conceived the notion that he was getting rid
of original sin. The impurities which followed his ablutions
continued to disappear slowly till at last the shampooer
DELHI. 109
came to an old flannel jacket that Sandy wore when he was
a baby. Imani-ud-din son of Karim Baksh, prince of
shampooers, may your shadow never grow less ! I have
tried baths in London, Paris, Berlin, and Constantinople,
and none can compare with you : sucli sliampooing is a
thing to be conceived, not described, for, in truth, liis legs
were as active as his hands. There is not a muscle in my
body which was not agreeably strained in some direction
foreign to all locomotion. Even all my bones, from the
ankles to the finger-joints, were just tested to see whether
they were sound. Rontgen's electric rays could not have
penetrated deeper or explored more fully my whole physical
anatomy. 1 began to feel, on strength of this bath, popular
with myself on the assurance of my soTindness. The Royal
Turkish Bath on the Hamilton-road I strongly recommend.
The house is a humble one, notwithstanding its dignified
name, but the rooms are scrupulously clean, albeit the appli-
ances are of the most primitive character. Down on a
solid square of marble tie deed of cleansing was done,
with the fewest possible accessories. The Perman brothers,
in their maddest gyrations, can give but a faint idea of how
the son of Karim Baksh performs his work.
tellery's curio rooms
are the finest art exhibition in Delhi, a veritable palace of
Alladin, where in a small space are congregated the rarest
productiotis of old India. Mr. H. T. Harris showed me
over the exhibition and the work-rooms. He has no kin-
ship with the Cawnpore gentlemen, who want to hide their
1 10 INDIA N SKETCHES A ND RA 3IBLES.
Hour, cotton, jute, and woollen stuffs under bushels. He
welcomed a travelling journalist, answered all my questions
in a frank, open manner ; of course he had nothing to
conceal, no illusion to kf^p up. It would be a bad
compliment and an injustice to his beautiful art treasures
to treat them to a scant paragraph at the end of my letter.
I hope to give a description of them later on. The tocsin
of the soul has now rung : Mr. Kellner's dinner-bell
summons to action. !Not even in Ceylon tlie land of tea,
have I tasted a more refreshing beverage than tliat
provided by this enterprising firm. There is no occasion
to leave the Railway station. The Kellncr dinning-rooms
supply every thing. No European Hotel is better provided
or more reasonable in its charges.
CHAPTER XV.
LAHORE.
The capital of tlie Punjab, tlie classic ground of Alexander's
conquest, the focus of the struggle between Mahonied-
anism and Hindooism, is said to contain the most martial
of the populations of India. The journey from Delhi to
the great capital of Akbar, famous in the sixth century, is
absolutely devoid of interest — an illimitable plain, sparsely
wooded, the soil poor, sandy, and full of rushes and stunted
bushes, rivers dried up, cattle out of condition, the villages
flat-roofed mud hovels, little more advanced than the tiny
mounds raised by white ants ; one asks where do these
300 millions live ? A grey-headed vulture, a solitary
snipe, and a few asses, with some monkeys, appear now
and then across the course of the iron horse. The want of
water, is casting a gloom over the Punjab and several
parts of the North-West Provinces. Prices have risen,
and the poor have a dreary prospect ; cattle arc starving
for want* of fodder, agriculturists are living on roots of
• trees, and distress is imminent. What makes this impres-
sion more painful is the absolute difficulty in rendering
112 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
the poor any assistance. I doubt if any agricultural or
industrial skill could do mucli to improve a soil that
only nourishes rushes, and is deficient in water. These
vast plains must once have heen the bed of an ocean, and
nothing but the fierce sunlight has forced a barren growth
of herbage, good for neither man nor beast. The eye be-
comes tired of the everlasting prospect of sand and burnt
up grass ; with here and there a walled town or village, once
occupied by some Punjab chieftain at war with his neigh-
bours, and now a crumbling ruin. I visited Ludhiana,
Jullundur and Umballa, the last a mere military cantonment,
and one mihtary camp is very like another. At Umritsur,
a feeble manufacturing interest is going on, but Lahore, the
capital, produces nothing. As far as commerce is con-
cerned the people are not alive to anything beyond a petty
huckstering trade.
THE OLD TOWN
is surrounded by a wall, crumbling like an old cheese, and
about as animated as a highly-flavoured Stilton. A stream
of undiluted filth flows in an open sewer all round. The
Municipality is, like that of Calcutta, shamefaced in its
confession of impotence. An energetic commissioner gave
notice of a motion prohibiting the purchase of municipal
property by municipal commissioners. One of his brother-
members frankly asked, " "What is the good of our being
members if we are prohibited from purchasing* municipal
things ?" Even this was too much for the Native Press.
They have denounced the (^onduct of the commissioner,.
LAHORE. 113
and appealed to the Lieutenant-Governor to protect tlie
public from such shameful abuse of privileges. They
forget that the Lieutenant-Governor is powerless in such
matters, and that the only redress is in their own hands.
As may be expected, crime and organised theft are rampant.
I have heard several tales of how money-lenders have been
outwitted ; while the police arc incapable of arresting the
criminals. The old city is picturesquely quaint with e)id-
less nooks and corners tenanted by poor people intent ou
making a living, despite the " infinite torment of flies"
which cover everything. How human beings can live in such
close quarters is a puzzle which no European can solve.
There are several objects of interest, such as the Badhshi
Musjid, the tomb of the one-eyed monarch Runjeet Singh,
the old Lion of the Punjab. His palace in the Fort is now
converted into an armoury. Here I noticed several French-
shaped bugles, swords, guns and other objects, the pro-
perty of French and Irish adventurers ; the suite of rooms
is similar in many respects to the marble palace in Delhi,
only less costly. Ranakali Bazaar is a lively thoroughfare,
supplying nearly all the native wants. Its name is derived
from a famous dancing-girl, who, owing to a flirtation with
one of the courtiers, was punished by being buried alive.
A handsome marble tomb was placed over her remains,
crowned by a massive sarcophagus ; the English residents
converted this room into a church. A reverend padre felt
so scandalised that the English service should be conducted
on the grave of a dancing-girl, that he removed the obloquy
by raising funds for a cathedral. This is an ugly red brick
VIII
114 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
buildiag consisting of a number of uneven-sized gables,
resembling a collection of soap boxes huddled together.
DONALD TOWN.
The only prosperous part of Lahore is the English
quarter. This is undoubtedly interesting. There are four
cross roads fcjrming stately avenues lined with trees called,
if you please, Charing Cross. I am certain when my
English brothers get into heaven, instead of crowns on their
heads, they will stick to the old stove-pipe hat and hide
their wings under isTorfolk jackets and cut-away morning
coats. They will have their Belgravia, and, ten to one, will
boycott any nigger who dares to drive down Eotten Row.
The West End quarter in Paradise will be sure to be Eng-
lish, for " Oh, what a happy land is England !" Certainly
the Enghsh rulers have given a good example in all the
ways of modern life, and in their efforts at civilisation
they are doing their duty not sympathetically but in that
do-or-die fashion so characteristic of a non-emotional race.
Donald town is a pleasing contrast to the old ramshackle
city of the Moguls. Here you have Banks, Life Assurance
offices, a High Court, University, and a Zoo with a nursery
for young plants ; even trade loses vulgarity in its presenta-
tion, for shops of the sadler, milliner and grocer assume
the aristocratic veil of bungalows with lordly compounds.
The fine block of buildings forming the Montgomery and
Lawrence Assembly rooms are used for balls 'and state
ceremonies. They are very handsome apartments. The
examination for the Entrance course was being conducted
LAHORE, 115
when I called. Several eager, bright-eyed youths werei
scanning the question papers and talking loudly in the
vestibule. All the newspapers and periodicals of the day are
taken here. The Punjab Club is a fine substantial building,
replete with all the modern conveniences, and without any
useless frippery. In the park there is a statue of Sir John
Lawrence, a name inseparably connected with the Punjab,
a fine, rough, strong soldier-like man, with the strut of a
bushranger and the aspect of a prize-fighter ; he holds a
pen in one hand and a sword in the other. The inscription
is : " Will you be governed by pen or sword ?" The aspect
of the man hardly justifies a choice. There are several
hotels and some new buildings in course of erection. Thus,
in many respects, Lahore is a worthy capital for this vast
impoverished Province.
THE MUSEUM.
I was somewhat disappointed in the Museum. I
expected to see a larger concern, better stocked with
treasures and better taken care of. It is very deficient in
fibres, and the birds and insects were slovenly arranged.
Some of the former were not even mounted ; the skins were
dried and pushed under a glass-case, affording no idea
whatever of the size and beauty of the species in question.
There were several birds of beautiful plumage, wholly un-
known to me. Again, in the matter of fibres there is a
great defici-incy. India does not make enough of her plants,
which are numerous ; an incalculable amount of wealth can
be induced from tliis source, which seems entirely neglected.
116 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
A museum deserving the name sliould possess a classified
list of all plants bearing ou this subject, with a cheap
treatise showing the processes of culture. Since I have
taken a cursory glance at the country, I am not so keen on
improved agriculture. Much, no doubt, may be done in tlie
valleys, but little or nothing on the plains, where the soil is
so poor and barren, that, attempts to cultivate would be but
a waste of good material. Chemistry and Botany are so
neglected that it is useless to expect an advance in this
subject till the present mere literary education is abandoned.
A USEFUL DISCOVERY.
I lately made the acquaintance of a young gentleman
educated in some of the best European technical schools.
He confided in me an experiment in linseed fibre out of
which a fortune might be made. From what I could learn,
the chemical ingredients are comparatively cheap, and the
fibre extracted, excellent for paper, cloth goods, curtains, etc.
A matter of fifteen to twenty thousand rupees would be
ample to start a profitable concern. There is reason to
believe that a German company will take it up ; but I
should prefer to see it entrusted to an Indian or Anglo-
Indian. There is nothing more to be deplored than the
want of interest which the Indian people show in developing
the resources of their country. If this apathy continues,
India will soon be the happy hunting-ground of every
expert adventurer, whose sole desire is to turn all'the money
he can into his own pocket, and, as soon as this is done, to
leave the country. On this account the defective education
LAHORE. 117
at present in vogue has much to answer for. Sir Alfred
-Croft states that the natives themselves are favouring this
pernicious University training ; so the Government is not
wholly in fault. Sir Antony MacDonnell wisely remarked
•that there was no more difficult task than ruling a people
who are ignorant. He admitted also the mistake of intro-
ducing among a conservative people, forms of thought and
methods foreign to their accepted principles of social well-
being. The fact is, we have quite forgotten that a Hindoo
takes his status from liis family descent. With hiei caste
means social gradation. His employment is hereditary, and
Ills education should be suited to his station in life. To
educate a blacksmith's son for a B. A. degree and to tempt
liis ambition by prizes to which, as a blacksmith's son, he
would not have dared to aspire but for his English studies,
is to place him in a false position towards himself and his
race traditions. Christianity is a levelling-down faith which
lias played havoc with the Indian people. It is natural that
Christian rulers should be guided by it, but its fruit is now
apparent, and will be more so in the future. Social dis-
tinctions have been levelled, and these were the very props
which supported the Indian people : their removal is leav-
ing them much in the condition of the boy who learned to
swim with bladders ; when the latter were removed the boy
went down. Indian life is permeated with false ideas and
a very low tone of morality ; there is hardly any section
of the life' free from bribery and corruption in some form
or another. Even Birmingham sends out little idols ; but
tliere is no mystery in the eyes of these impudent godlets-j-
118 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
they are hopelessly Brummagen, and altogether out of
place. Out over these vast planes a benumbing stillness
prevails, a sort of moral dry rot hopeless to deal with.
Here the jin-jur darts and sparkles in the sun, and the
baghjugni comes out with the moon. The hot earth pants
after the rigors of the day, and sends forth the grateful'
glow of her breath ; the moon looks down caressingly, and
peeps through the tangled green shrubs ; the air is vibrant
with insect life ; the night wind wanders lovingly through
the trees ; and the spirit of the woods and streams becomes
palpable. It is a tired old world, new things don't suit it.
One is tempted to ask : " Is this old civilisation capable of.
revival, or has its once glowing heart forgotten to beat" ?
CHAPTER XVI.
LUCKNOW.
I HAD occasion to visit Cawnpore on my way to other places.
As I approached it, I thought of the story of the French-
man on a visit in England, who was invited to a hunt.
The survey of the ground and the inspection of the horses
excited in him only misgivings. As the company was about
to start, he exclaimed with a blank face : "Take notice vies
amis zat I leafe every zing to my wife !" I had just heard
that small-pox was raging in Cawnpore : that the people
were dying at the rate of two hundred a day : the bodies
were thrown into the river. The people of Cawnpore are
fond of fish, the finny tribe are not however enamoured
with putrid flesh ; several big fish were found dead on the
banks, evidently the small-pox subjects did not agree with
them. A gentleman whom I met in Delhi, acquainted
me with these facts. As 1 had to call for my letters 1
accompanied him to town. He took me to a place where I
saw the fi^h for sale. The manner in which they met their
death did not prevent them from being brought to market.
I differ from the Frenchman in not having a wife to share
120 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
my effects, but I feel with him in the hopelessness of the
situation. Until tlie epidemic ceases, no one should eat
fish in C awn pore.
A COMMERCIAL TRAVELLER.
I have not permission to give this gentleman's name.
I shall, however, call him Mr. Garston, I found that he
travelled over India and Burma, was well informed and
communicative. " This country will be a European market
for many years yet," he remarked ; " There is no danger
of its becoming a rival to English manufactures."
" Don't you think the cheapness of tlie labour will
induce Western capitalists to start works here instead of
continuing in a country where strikes prevail and labour is
expensive ?" I asked.
"No," he replied. " 1 don't think there is any ground
for apprehension on that head. You, like a good many
others, have fallen into the mistake of thinking that labour
in India is cheap. Labour is not cheap though it looks so.
The wants of the Eastern workman are few ; he only works
hard for a few months and then leaves his employer in the
lurch. Having saved a little he comes with his lie : his
mother is sick, he wants to return to his village. Go he
will, you can't prevent him. It does not matter that you
kept him in the slack season when he was starving : that
you have an order to execute, failure of which will entail
loss. The native has little gratitude and no apmbition ;
your interest is not his. No dependence can be placed on
Indian labour. True, you will get a man to work for four
LUCKNOW. 121
or six annas a clay, but yoii will require five understudies
to each man. Labour in this sense is not cheap, and never
will be. until the whole character of the Indian is changed ;
and when that time comes, neither you nor I will have a
headache."
I record this opinion without vouching for its accuracy.
To this I put the inquiry.
" Don't you think education will produce the necessary
reform ?"
" Certainly not. There is where you literary and poli-
tical men make mistakes. You believe too much in educa-
tion, not taking into account hereditary qualities. Did
you notice the dinner we had last night ?"
" Yes. The Kellner dining-rooms are well managed.
What does that prove ?"
" Wait a minute. How did you fare at Agra and
Umballa ?"
" l!^ot so well. The food was coarse and i]\Q attendance
indifferent. But I don't see your point."
" My point is simple enough. It proves what I say,
tlie great difference between the European and the native.
Kellner's rooms are purely European ; the Agra and
Umballa stations are in native hands. Not a Bengali
Baboo, bear in mind, but a Parsee, the most advanced of the
Eastern people. No, all the education in the world will not
reform the Indian, or induce correct European methods."
" Who Is this Kellner ?" I asked with some interest.
" He was a square-headed European, who, thirty years
ago, came up this line, saw what was necessary and sup-
122 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
plied the want. The old man is dead ; the firm flourishes,
for it is founded on right principles. I used to know him,
he was a kindly old gentlemen. His memory is still
green."
'' Why is it all the refreshment-rooms are not in the
hands of this company ?"
" Oh, the old story. The Government wish to play
into the hands of the natives. What do they care for the
comfort of the travellers. Not that I think it would pay
Kellner's people to take them all. " Were you at Cawn-
pore before ?" he asked. " It is a fine town with a good
native trade. How did you like it ?"
" I was not prepossessed with the place, I wanted to
look over the Mills, but could not get permission. "
" No ; that would not suit their book," he remarked
with a knowing smile.
" Why ?" I enquired. In deference to my publisher
I refrain from giving his answer. A wholesome freedom
of opinion ig not pennitted in India.
THE prince's hotel.
It was here I put up while at Lucknow. The station
is nearly a mile from the town. In reaching it I passed
two or three bungalows, got up smartly with yellow and
white paint. The general scenery is only a part of what I
have been looking at for days — a country washed with
fierce, unrelenting sunlight, basted with dust, and haunted
with flies. In fact a slice of land served on a gridiron can
^cite little admiration.
LUCKNOW. 123
There is the long interminable road garnished with mud
cabins decorated with cheap crockery, lined with heaps of
decayed vegetables, where starving dogs, calves and buffaloes
haunt. There are a number of decayed mosques, gilt,
grass-grown and all dilapidated. The architecture of the
town is of the wedding-cake order, tawdry and inelegant.
The Hotel consisted of a number of bed-rooms admirably
contrived to keep out the wind. The whole place smelt
like the inside of a hat. There was not as much free air as
would remove a shred of thistle-down.
After a bath and a cup of tea I procured a guide and
a car. The former happened to be a long-legged Sikh in
the faded uniform of the Viceroy's Guard in which he
seemed to have slept. In a deprecating way he assured me
that he belonged to the Imperial and not the Princes.
The Hotel called after the Heir-Apparent evidently does not
occupy the place of distinction, yet I found the proprietor
obliging and the cliarges moderate. This, however, was
only a feeble device to augment his own importance. I
warned this long-legged automaton to keep his tongue
quiet and confine himself to brief answers. He was burst-
ing with speech while I was yearning for silence. We then
drove for some hours round the town in the temper of two
strange dogs coupled together for the first time in their
lives by the same chain.
, A DREAM.
I was not in good humour when I entered the city of
Koses, for the jolting and slowness of the Oudh and
1 24 INDIA N SKETCHES A ND RA MBLES.
Koliilkhand Railway from Cawnpore were very trying. I
had dozed several times and was disturbed by a dream. A
school-fellow, many years my senior, whose death at Luck-
now broke his mother's he^rt, disturbed me. He came
before me as a school-boy : next in his scarlet uniform,
looking ' nuts' in it, and lastly, pale and bleeding on a
stretcher. The splinter of a shell did the business ; I had
not thought of this man for years, but now the scene of
his death was placed before me in ghastly vividness.
THE BESIDENCY
was the word on my lips when I awoke and it was to
this place I drove first ; why is it preserved ? Ugly memo-
ries should not be cherished. Its preservation is an insult
to the many brave Indian soldiers who stood nobly by us
in that great emergency. I saw where poor Lawrence
received his death wound ; inspected the Bailey gate rid-
dled with bullets, and Dr. Phayers's house, the roof of
which was defended by sand bags ; saw the lines where
tlie rebels had taken their stand, pouring murderous lead
on the handful of brave defenders. The guide gave me the
names of the places ; his parrot-like lesson was unneces-
sary. I visited the King of Oudh's palace with its trim
court-yard picked out with white and yellow paint ; was
shown the building surmounted with the golden umbrella ;
and close by, the club-room with its shelves of books,
where a number of women in balloon sleeves 'and soft
fabrics lounged in easy groups, close by the dust-stained
Oumptie, a poor thirsty stream flowing into a deep ravine.
LUCKNOW. 125
Next I passed by the American church where a tall
padre was dihiting on the glories of heaven to as well-
conditionetl a flock as any that a priest could pray for.
The clerical heaven inhabited by angels in smocks and
goose wings had no interest for nie. The punkah was
swinging, fans fluttering, while the discourse was droned
out on unheeding ears.
THE LIGHT OF THE FUTURE.
There is a story told of the illustrious Kant who was
as regular as a clock in his movements. He used to take
his walk in the gardens of the Grand Duchy, followed by
his servant with a cloak and umbrella, the latter looking
like an embodiment of Providence. One day a Uhlan was
on guard who did not know the philosopher. Kant was in
the middle of a profound meditation when asked, " Who
are you ?"
" Ah ! my friend, if I could answer that, all would be
■vyell," was the reply of the great thinker.
The Rontgen ray can reveal objects in a closed box and
the world wonders, but if any one were to tell that respect-
able body called the mob, that the great scenes of life arii
registered on a polished surface of imponderable matter,that
person would be regarded as a lunatic. Yet a clairvoyant
vision put all this before me with startling and painful
vividness. The light, however, is coming, and the sleuth-
hounds of "science, who are on the track of the bacilli and
microbes, are drawing close to the mark.
I returned to the Hotel where I had the company of
12fi INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
several German Princes in gaudy uniforms who decorated
the wall ; also some sweet roses on the table, which were
grateful to my feelings, for they dispelled the gloomy
pictures that came constantl)- cropping up before me. The
meal itself resembled the Hidalgo's dinner — very little meat
and a great deal of table cloth. Next morning while night's
dark blanket was still over the town I left Lucknow.
CHAPTER XVII.
AGRA.
It is a large native city with a fluctuating trade in sugar,
cotton, salt, tobacco, timber, indigo, grain, oil-seed and
other produce. The town is in direct communication with
the four principal seaports of India. It is for the most
part stone-payed, clean and fairly constructed. There are
wide wards, extensive gardens and many of the requisites
of a city, but the pattern is distinctly Oriental, with blind-
ing dust and grilling heat. On entering it, I felt I was
approaching an Arabian desert. The presence of a group
of camels at the railway station strengthened the illusion ;
everywhere there were sand and flies, sand and dust, dust
and flies. The Fort was built by Akbar, an imposing but
flimsy structure with a wall, seventy feet high and nearly
two miles in extent, made of loose earth faced with red
sand-stone. To Europeans the climate must be very try-
ing, owing to the oppressive glare, and the dust wliich
insinuates • itself into everything. The bazaars are busy
and filled with traffic ; each Uttle compartment has its own
hive of workers. The English quarter is as prodigal of
128 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
space as the native is cramped for want of room ; the com-
pound to some houses was enormous, so much so, that one
man utilised his plot of sand for a private burial ground.
The natives live and conduct their business in small rabbit
hutches where there is not literally room for two dogs to
dance. True, they have the power of doubling up their
bodies and sitting on their heels, an accomplishment whicli
no full grown European can imitate without disaster. The
evil of this close system becomes apparent when disease
occurs ; then the people die by the thousand.
THE TAJ.
I am not going into a swoon of ecstasy over this mag-
nificent mausoleum which is reckoned one of the wonders of
the world. It is rightly considered the most elaborate piece
of decorative workmanship in existence. Built of the
purest Jaipur marble, the mausoleum stands on a raised
platform at each corner of which is a tall and graceful
minaret. Beneath a large dome and within an enclosure of
most delicately carved marble fretwork, are the richly inlaid
tombs of the Princess and her husband Shah Jehan. In
regard to colour and design, its interior is unrivalled. The
perfect symmetry of its exterior and the aerial grace of its
domes and minarets impress the mind of the beholder with
a bewildering sense of beauty, while the magnificent marble
terrace, on which a squadron of dragoons might turn, as
it faces the Jumna, constitute a work of perfect' complete-
ness. It was built in the 17th century in the space of
eighteen years and when completed Shah Jehan, like a
AGRA. 129
greater architect, might have surveyed his work in the
cool of the evening and pronounced with pardonable vanity
that it was " very good." Much has been said of this
building and much will be said in the future by every visi-
tor, but its beauty can never be exaggerated. The echo
under the central dome is more pure and dulcet, than tliat
of the Righi, the Eagle's nest in Killarney, or the whisper-
ing gallery of St. Paul's. There are other fine buildings
in Agra — the Sish Mahal or Palace of Glass, the Pearl
Mosque and the Juma Musjid, the latter, a memorial temple
erected to the memory of the daughter who shared his
captivity when Shah Jehan was dethroned by his ingrate
son Aurangzeb. The Taj is an exotic, there is nothing
Indian about it. In a country where everything is incom-
plete and the national character in ruins, the Taj is as much
out of place as a Greek Temple in Shambazar. Like the
fly in amber the wonder is how the devil it got there.
There is hardly anything in the Hindu mind to justify so
pure an ideal ; their ordinary temples are wickedly ornate
and horribly grotesque.
THE TRAVELLER AGAIN,
I visited Agra in company with Mr. Garston, and took
occasion to invite his opinion on native enterprise.
" Such a thing does not exist," he remarked ; " what
goes by name of native enterprise does not soar higher
than dissimulation in one form or another. Show a native
an honest or a straightforward way of making a fortune
and he turns a deaf ear. On the contrary present him
IX
130 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES,
with a plan by which he can swindle any one, and his
attention is at once aroused."
" You must admit they are making some good ventures
at present," I put in.
" Well, how do they turn out ? Hopeless failures
every one of them."
" Why ?"
" Because they won't trust each other." " They are
not educated enough to perceive their own interests," I
answered.
" No, that is not the reason. They know each other
much better than we know them ; their disunion is based
upon sound knowledge ; they do not trust themselves.
The Agra Tannery, for instance, which was started by a
native. The promoter could not get his countrymen to
support liim and had to fall back on English assistance."
"The idea seems a good one." I remarked.
'* From a business point of view there are difficulties
in the scheme. To import machinery when you can get
the labour of the machine easy, is a mistake. A China-
man will make a pair of shoes for eight annas, the material
will cost about eight more. Now suppose you give the
Chinaman an order for 3,000 shoes, he will make them for
four annas a pair ; look what profit can be had on that if
the goods be exported to Europe, America is doing it at
a higher rate and making a fortune out of it. There is
over 200 per cent, profit in tliis to any one who works it
carefully, but importing machinery means costly European
supervision and other expenses which eat up the profits.
AGRA. 131
Neitlier am I much in favour of private companies ; we
have found this out in Bombay, it is the directors and
promoters that profit by these transactions and not the
shareholders. When the morality of a country has fallen
to a low ebb, all these aids to enterprise become mere traps
to swindle the unwary."
With all Mr. Garston's practical knowledge he display-
ed a strong tinge of vanity. I wonder why is it most men
wish to be considered a bit of a rogue among women. He
told me of an affair of gallantry of a most amusing
character which I dare not mention. Perhaps some lady
in Jhansi with golden hair may read this sketch, well, if so,
" the woman who did" need not be afraid, for I don't even
know her name. If the story he related is true, there
is a good deal of romance in the hills and precious little
morality. The new fiction of sexuality is bearing its crop.
THE EAST INDIAN RAILWAY.
Several complaints have been made about the manage-
ment. But there are complaints wherever Scotchmen are
in search of their money's worth. As I have passed up
and down the line for over a thousand miles and broken my
journey several times while crossing on other branches, I
am in a position to state my experience. I found both
guards and station masters on all occasions most civil and
obliging. Travelling by rail in India is cheaper and far
more comfortable than in France, Italy or Russia. The
wants of the passengers are fairly attended to and there
is little ground for complaint. There are, however,
132 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
people in India and Ceylon so given to fault finding
that in tlie next world they will be found quarrelling
with the Archangel as to the number of their sins. In
consequence of the spread of disease a few precautions
might be adopted. The Railway company at present
provide a doctor in case of accident or sickness. I hardly
think that these are as efficient as they might be. Pass-
engers full of disease travel on the line without much
inquiry. I have noticed over one thousand pilgrims start
from Lucknow to Benares huddled into a train, many of
them on crutches. One man told me complacently that
he was going there to die. The Company's doctor should'
be on the platform to prevent contagious diseases from
spreading. There is plenty of time for inspection, for many
of the poor come early and some arrive at the station the
night before, to be ready for the journey. The life of Mr.
Rutherford, the Traffic Manager of the E. I. Railway, was
lost for want of this most ordinary precaution. In the
Regulations laid down by the Company, there is a penalty
for travelling with an infectious disease, but this injunction
is not enforced. The drinking fountains at the stations
ought to be inspected, at least once every twenty-four hours,
to ensure pure water to the passengers. As far as I could
observe, these duties do not receive a proper amount of
attention.
RAILWAY POLICE.
These are very little help to the authorities or the
public. A Sergeant is appointed to each station and four
A GRA. ' 133
or six men according to the size of the place. The
Manager of a Refreshment room is prohibited to serve
liquor to soldiers without an order from the Commanding
Officer. I have noticed, however, that they do get liquor
all the same. If the police are stationed on an infected
street preventing people from passing through it when
disease is rampant, the same might be done on the railway
line. It is almost impossible to stop crowding in the third
class carriages : it may, however, prevent murder, as well
as being a distinct convenience, to furnish more lamps.
The poor people in India take largely to railway travelling
and the third class form the backbone of the traffic ; the
wants of this people certainly deserve more attention.
AK AMERICAN COUSIN.
While travelling north a young American girl and her
father entered my carriage. This chance meeting was like
an unexpected flower along life's dusty wayside. What is
the indefinite charm which surrounds our Australian and
American cousins, which makes tliem so companionable ?
The fleshly garment has little to do with it. It is the
spirit which looks out at the windows which gives them
that ethereal expression, making them adorable. I was
subjected to a close examination on all I knew by this
young creature who seems to have travelled everywhere and
seen everything. Her charming company recalled to my
mind Tennyson's reference to sublime sympathy — when he
urged " speak to Him thou for he hears, and spirit with
spirit can meet, closer is he than breathing and nearer tha^i
134 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
hands or feet." " One hears so mucli of Delhi, Agra,
Lucknow, Cawnpore," she remarked, "but to see them is to
contemplate ruins, dust, flies and picturesque rags !" Poor
India, your glorious past is becoming a pale tradition of
impossible existence, your ancient religion a tale told by
a Theosophist, full of plaintive music, signifying nothing.
The heavy hand of time presses on the heart of a country,
once the cradle of religion and the home of the noblest
aspirations.
CHAPTER XVIII.
DARJEELING,
It is not a question of comparison. There is no other near
it. Darjeeling, of the Himalayas, stands highest in altitude
and foremost in attractions of any of the hill stations. Here
are the facts. It can be reached in 24 hours. Calcutta to
Damukdia Ghat is 120 miles. Here the Ganges is encoun-
tered in a broad, beautiful stream and passed over in an
admirable steamer, where dinner can be taken on board
comfortably while making your first acquaintance with the
sacred river. The broad, yellow stream, like an immense sea,
deserves all the worship given it. The natives bow down to
it, drink in it, bathe in it, love in it. ! sacred mother
Ganges ! queen of rivers you deserve it all ! • The moment
the steamer crosses this two-and-a-half miles of water,
obliging coolies carry your baggage into another set of
carriages, with most commodious sleeping arrangements.
Be sure to bring your bedding with you, and enough of
warm blttokets, rugs, and top coats, for though you may
Iiave been grilling on the plains remember you are now
approaching the clouds, the region of perpetual snow.
136 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
Comfortably wrapped up for the night, you will forget the
long dreary landscape from Calcutta to the Ganges, every
inch of which is as flat as a billiard table and as green as
the cloth, with no pockets, only some clumps of bamboos not
worth observing. Once you have seen the gorgeous tropical
clothing of Ceylon, the beauty of which consoled Adam
after the apple banquet, which cost him so severely, you
will find nothing to surpass it in India. Isn't it wonderful
how long that old yarn has lasted ? But no matter ; after
that run of 120 miles, one is permitted, while curled in the
blankets, to dream a bit about old world nonsense. Are
we not in the land of romance, the cradle of the race, the
country of immense distances, and — Oh ! Heaven and
Earth — are we not approaching the biggest mountain in
the universe, thousands of feet higher than any other in
the world.
OLD MEMORIES.
We remember a day, good God I it seems as if it were
yesterday, so fresh and vivid the memory comes back to us,
when we strained our eyes for hours together to catch the
first glimpse of Imperial Rome, the empress city of the
world ; and yet what does Rome recall, but blood, lust, do-
minion, and slavery, while the Himalayas are as pure to-day
as the immaculate snow on their brow ; untrodden by man,
its massive peaks, snow-robed, sparkling in the clear air as
if they were cut out of solid diamond, and looking down
on the vast smoky plains of India, with a lofty grandeur
befitting the pride of a twice-born Brahmin, or the dignity
DARJEELING. 137
of the greatest Maharaja in the land. Having crossed the
Ganges and got into your sleeping bunk at Sara Ghat,
you have anotlier smooth run of 19G miles to Silignri.
Here you get your first sight of Kinchinjunga, one of the
liighest peaks of the Himalayas. It means the hill of the
five stores of snow. No matter about the name, only don't
miss this first view. Above a lofty range of blue mountains
you see the white cap peeping over the rest, like a man
behind a group, straining on tip-toes to get a sight of
something in front. Right and left are the countries of
Bhutan and ISTepaul, and before you the dreaded strip of
land varying from ten to thirty miles, running along the
base of the mountains, called the Terai, a mass of tangled
vegetation forming a tropical swamp, the home of malaria,
fever, tigers, elephants and a race of flat-faced human
beings the exact colour of dirty linen. Bah ! man rules
the universe ; tigers, elephants, fever, and malaria fly before
him. Terai is a Persian word meaning " damp." Far
off the heads of the great mountains rose in the upper
countries of cloud, where the snow settled on their stony
heads, and the torrents ran out from the frozen mass to
gladden the Earth below with the faith of the lonely hills.
The mighty creatures lay like grotesque animals of a far-off
titanic time, whose dead bodies had been first witliered into
stone, then worn away by the storms till the outlines of
their forms were gone, and only rough shapes remained,
suggesting' what the creatures had been, as the corpse
under the sheet of death indicates the man. Gigantic
terrace after terrace of mountains rise up to the heavens.
138 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
cold bare and sparse of clothing till failing at length in
npward efforts, the savage rocks shot away and beyond and
above them, the white garment clinging cold and cruel to
their ragged sides and the dead blank whiteness covering
their final despair.
THE TEA PLANTER.
On the slopes of the mountain lower down a body of
the finest and bravest men on earth, the English tea-
planters, have made a settlement ; they have turned parts
of the jungle into a garden, their snug little bungalows dot
the hill-side. How lonely tliey look, thousands of miles
away from England, home and beauty. Talk of bravery on
the battle-field, 'tis nothing to this. Hip, Hip, Hurrah !
Forward ! Crash of cannon, clouds of smoke, yells, a squirt
of blood, and the young soldier reels from the saddle. The
bright new sabre falls from his hand, a comrade carries him
out of the ranks, while the damp of death is gathering on
his brow, or perhaps his body is pounded into a jelly with
the mass of advancing horses, who are thundering along be-
hind, like a march-wind ploughing up the dust on the road.
The thing is over and done in a minute, but the slow,
plodding solitary life in the jungle, tlie long weary nights,
the old dreams and fancies of boyhood gone over and over
again in those night watches, are enough to make the brain
reel. " 0, to think of it ; oh, to dream of it, fills the heart
with tears." There is no finer race of men than the tea-
planters of Ceylon and India, and when you look at a
planter's hut in the jungle and his pretty bungalow on the
DARJEELING. 139
liill-sicle you admire liis lionest work, bis patient labour, bis
endurance and bravery.
EXCELSIOR.
From Siliguri to Darjeeling, tbe journey is from tbe
plains to tlie skies, from town's beat to perpetual snow.
You may liave done your sbare of Scotcb mountains and
Irisb bills, gazed at tbe Carpatbians, wandered over tbe
Apennines, scaled tbe Sierra Nevada, and admired with
proper respect tbe distant rampart of tbe Alps, tbirty miles
off in tbe Mediterranean. But each of these will melt into
insignificance at wbat now stands before you, in a country
where everything is measured on a large scale, wlietber it be
mountains, rivers, plains, or envy, meanness and rampant
malice, wbich will stab you bobind your back if you dare to
speak tbe truth. First have a look at tbe curious little
train which is going to carry you up to tbe clouds. The
carriages look like a collection of wardrobes on wheels,
some are skeletons with backs and sides left out, while tbe
engine is tbe cleverest and pluckiest little thing on wheels ;
you step into tbe carriage thinking it a play-tbing, and off
you go at the rate of from 7 to 10 miles an hour, on a
track wbich winds and doubles and zig-zags, in a manner
both bewildering and amazing.
THE PROSPECT.
Seven miles from Siliguri the ascent commences, a
sharp rise of three miles leading to a flat or spur from
which the Himalayas rise abruptly, clothed in forests from
their base to the region of rocks. The little engine payts-
140 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
and puffs, and the carnages wind after it, round the scale-
shaped curves like a sinuous serpent. The scenery above,
around and beneath, is superb ; lofty peaks tower overhead,
while fleecy clouds stain the blue sky, but do not conceal it.
To the right and left of your road are dense green forests
clothing steep slopes arid ever and anon dipping into some
gorge, down which rushes an impetuous stream or cascade.
Away below lies the vast plain stretching like a great sea
as far as the eye can reach, with spurs of lofty mountains
forming saw-like ridges. A panorama of hitherto unex-
pected grandeur grows imperceptibly larger until the view
fatigues the eye from its immensity. "With every hour and
bend of the railway, a new scene bursts on tlie view, the
vast expanse of foliage is broken here and there by tea
gardens whose pretty homesteads nestle on the hill sides,
flanked by low mud huts like ant-hills, where the cooh^
hands reside. Onwards and upwards you mount : at times
you see the track hundreds of feet beneath you, and wonder
how you ever got from that point to this. Great heights
rise around on all sides. The hill station stands as between
heaven and hell, suspended between peaks and gulfs.
Meanwhile tlie air grows rarefied and more bracing, and the
appearance of the vegetation changes from tropical glory
to Alpine sparseness. Tlie ascent is about 1,000 feet every
hour, and the air gets gradually cooler and cooler till at
Kurseong, within 20 miles of Darjeeling, the necessity of
warm clothing becomes imperative. The elevation here is
4,860 feet above the level of the sea. A few miles further
on is the village of Ghoom, the highest railway station in
DARJEELING. 141
the •world, nearly 8,000 feet above sea-level, at the foot of
Mount Senohal, and near Tiger hill. At both sides are
stupendous valleys, while the deep waterless gorges which
scar the mountains show their immense size.
UP IN THE CLOUDS.
From the top of Tiger hill a good view of Mount Ever-
est can l)e had, forming the end peak of a lofty mountain
range, of which Kinchinjanga occupies the other end.
Everest is about 100 miles distant, 29,002 "feet high, while
Kinchinjunga is barely 45 miles off and is reckoned at
28,156 feet above the sea-level. The sharp peaks of dazzling
white cut the amethyst sky and form what is called the
snowy range. There are hundreds of minor peaks all
round of immense size ; you feel that you have got into the
bowels of the mountain, and you are much too close to
appraise them at their real altitude. The view by moon-
light is bewilderingly oppressive, the Winding clouds of
mist wander about over the nation of rocks and sink into
the valleys. In a moment the whole creation has vanished
and there seemed scarce existence enough left among the
gloomy hills to think of humanity. Kinchinjunga stands
in front, crowned with blinding snow, an awful fact,
cold silent and as impenetrable as the stars. The sun with
its warm palpitating rays brings back the human element.
The feeling of loneliness is dispersed. The white coated
monarchs nil round tower in stupendous majesty into the
sky, creating impressions of sublimity which even William
JBlack, the great wuid [tainter of mountain and mist, would
142 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
find some difficulty to describe. I have seen several great
mountains and read of a great many more, but the mighty
peaks of the Himalayas exceed all my visualizing of those
sublime objects of nature. Alone with them is a lil>eral
education ; like looking into a great telescope, the petty
world around sinks into insignificance, its meanness, its
jealousy, its puny discord fade into nothing. Our hearts
easily mount to the Supreme, and our inarticulate longings
find no vehicle in words, save those of the Litany : "We
praise Thee, O God, we acknowledge Thee to be the Lord"
This picture, long looked for and at last realised, will never
fade from my memory.
THE TOVFN.
The town of Darjeeling does not deserve much notice.
The houses for the most part are badly constructed, many
of them of a ramshackle appearance perched on hills,
unsubstantial and uncomfortable. If the great mountain
monarch ever drew a long breatli or happened to sneeze, I
expect they would all tumble down, like a house of cards ;
the back doors of the houses manifest more vitality and
frankness than the fronts. The town looks as if somebody
built a whole street or two of houses of every imaginable
shape, and then stirred them together with a spoon. Filthy
cabins infest tiie place, roofed with sardine boxes. Some
liouses have stoves, but many are only provided with a fire-
place, so primitive that it might have been constructed by
one of ISToah's head-strong sons on leaving the Ark. A
V-shaped contrivance runs into the wall, where the wood is
DARJEELING. 143
deposited ; all the heat goes up the chimney, and while seated
in front of the lire, the reverse side of your body runs a risk
of being frost bitten. There are a few boarding houses,
while the hotels are of the usual cormorant order. I was
asked from eight to twelve rupees a day for board in one
of them. There are two clubs, one of the "elect" and the
other a ghastly concern intended for the people. There is
among the dwellers of the Hills an unmistakable aspect of
aloofness so characteristic of the English. This is pressed
to its last entrenchment in Darjeeling, for China has
nothing to do witli crockery and the brown earthen jar
has actually no place in the domestic arrangments. The
dry unsympathetic official regards the natives much as a
great Irish landowner looks on some gypsies who had
encamped over night on his estate.
PRICE OF LIVING.
The shops are fairly good, and supply everything at
famine prices. For a tin of tobacco 1 was asked twice
its value, and for a cup of coffee and a bun I paid about
four prices. Vegetables are scarce, and are mostly supplied
by the villagers. There are a few bakeries, but bread is
also manufactured in the jails, and the Botanical Gardens
actually puts itself in rivalry with the native gardeners by
supplying vegetables. Good milk can be had in bamboo
bottles. There are no market gardens, no organised indus-
tries or any compact orderly system of catering for tlie
wants of the inhal)itant3. There is a rickety haphazard
way of doing everything, which is characteristic of India.
144 INDIA N SKE TCHES A ND RA MBL ES.
The slopes of the Himalayas, if properly utilised, might
afford delightful homes and occupation for millions -who are
starving in India. On every side are deep valleys, fir-
crowned gorges, arid, as far as the eye can see, a howling
waste of lonely mountains, surmounted by the snow-capped
range cutting the sky in sharp jagged spurs and lines.
On the road and in the villages you meet strange faces
with high cheek-bones, thick depressed noses, with very
little hair on their faces except a few straggling bristles at
the corners of the mouth. The obliquity of their eyes is
due to the puckering up of the face to avoid the glare. A
fold of skin is drawn up at the corner of the eye, so that
its lower margin forms an oblique line, but the line of the
upper eyelid is horizontal, and the axis of the two eyes is
one straight line. These people are small in stature, but
strong and muscular. The women wear massive jade orna-
ments in their ears and shell bracelets ; they carry heavy
burdens supported by a strap resting on the forehead : a
grinning good-natured set of things. Both men and women
wear cloth boots gartered at the knees, thick woollen
frocks, and felt hats with sides turned up. They represent
numerous hill tribes, all distinctly Mongolian in appearance.
The children are healthy, cheerful, placid and dirty. Some
of the enterprising Calcutta firms are opening branch shops
at reasonable rates, and the place is likely to advance
somewhere late in the next century.
SCHOOLS.
There are several schools. 1 went over St. Joseph's
and had a long talk with the Principal, a member of the
DARJEELING. 145
Jesuit order. He proved a highly cultivated man, with
wide experience. ' His views of the Indian character deeply
depressed me, for I am already beginning to find out the
shifty suspicious nature of tlie people. St. Joseph's is
a splendid establishment, capable of accommodating a
squadron of dragoons, but I regret to say the scholastic
ambition does not soar above the Government cram-exami-
nation. The liealthy faces of both boys and girls all over
the place proves incontestably the value of Darjeeling as
a nursery for young people, but its Siberian cold is far too
great for the ordinary dweller on the plain. It is wasteful
extravagance of parents with small means to send their
children to England with the undoubted advantages which
Darjeeling possesses. The place itself with the slopes and
lovely valleys reaching it, may be made an earthly paradise
\<ith enterprise and culture, two qualities which in twenty
million centiiries will not be found in this old worn out
world : one might as well think of converting the moon
into a watering place, and opening up tramway communi-
cation with it : the latter would be far more feasible than
the former.
CHAPTER XIX.
AN INDIAN NOVELIST.
Europeans have no opportunity of looking through the
parda and studying the domestic life of their Indian neigh-
bours. The most intimate friend does not- venture to make
those common-place kindly inquiries about a neighbour's
wife or daughter which European courtesy demands from a
mere acquaintance. The family privacy is maintained at
any price. The durwan 'who sits at the gate is as great an
enigma as the sphinx. ISTomiually he is only the gate por-
ter, in reality he is often the ruler of the whole establish-
ment ; he gets but a few rupees a month, but he exacts in-
direct taxation on everything that enters the house. The
present writer is acquainted with the durwan of a large
hotel. His salary is E.S. 12 a month, but lie draws an in-
come of Rs. 700 a month from a number of hackney
carriages which he owns, and besides that, strange as it
may appear, he is one of the directors who manage the
establishment.
This is only a sample of the strange life that goes on
around us. Au Englishman may live fifty years in this
AN INDIAN NOVELIST. 147
country without the shglitest knowledge of Hindu women,
who seldom go outside their own houses and when they do
are covered up like white mice. From the time of marriage
■to the birth of a child the woman remains covered wiih a
veil. As she grows old the veil is made shorter but never
entirely withdrawn. The veil is not only worn outside the
zenana but inside also : the wife will not appear unveiled
before her husband's elder brother or speak to him except
through a medium. From our point of view it must be a
sad dreary life, but there is another way of looking at it.
The Hindu woman is kept under constant tutelage to
father, husband or son. She is however, neither a slave
or a drudge. Quite the reverse. Her labour is a labour
of love : she prefers the comfort and happiness of her
parents, husband and children to her own. Self denial,
patient endurance, economy, simplicity, modesty, tender-
ness and sincere affection are the prominent features of her
character. According to the Indian system no girls are
left unprovided. In the East there is no such thing as the
unplucked rose, better known as an old maid. A father who
neglected to marry his daughters would be made an outcast.
The monotony of the home life is relieved by the cere-
monies attending the Poojahs, the chief of which is the
Doorga Poojah. This is the grand annual Hindu religious
festival. It lasts three days. It calls forth the religious
enthusiasm in the heart of the genuine Hindu, creating a
sacred bond of national unity. It is now on the decline
owing to the spread of English education. The image of
Doorga is not worshipped but the attributes of the Deity i
148 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
conceived through the medium of tlie image. This festival
is a periodic aclvuowledgemeut of the Creator by the Hindus
and its highly spiritual character contrasts favourably with
the gross materialism of the Christmas festival.
The story of " Sarala and Hingana"' throws a great
light on Indian domestic life, so sweet, simple and holy that
one is astonished at the revelation. Hem Chandra, the
hero, represents the young Bengali youth ; the story of his
struggles, ambition and early marriage is an excellent
sample of the life of the people. I'll not spoil the interest
of the story by telling the plot, but I can assure the reader
that he will get a better notion of the social life of the
Hindus from this story than from a dozen ponderous
volumes written by great scholars. Hingana, the second
tale in the book, is on the old theme of jealousy and
revenge. Here we have love from a different point of view
as seen among the Gond tribes.
The Indian youth who has acquired the power of
English expression with a knowledge of the leading nove-
lists of the West, especially Tolstoi, Turgeneiff, Cherbuliez
and Zola might be able to render a great service to his
countiy where there is abundance of material not yet
utilised.
India is the land of colossal mountains, glorious valleys-
illimitable plains, the country of rice-field, temples, tanks,
strange customs and brilliant colours. Here life is dirt
cheap, and the human article merges into a thousand race
forms. The Rajputs of the North-West are physically the
4 finest race on earth, the sons of the desert and the
AN INDIAN NOVELIST. 149
mountain whose highest ideal is to live nobly and die in
battle. Tliey are the l^ormans of the East, giving kings
and nobles to every province from Sind to Orissa ; their
princes can make no higher boast than that they are the
descendants of the children of the Sun. Like the red
Branch Knights of Ireland their history is interwoven with
military traditions.
Mr. Chakravarti, the talented author of this pleasant
little volume, has treated a small sample of the life of the
nation with considerable skill. Tliere is in him the mak-
ing of a novelist of decided ability ; his command of
English is wonderful considering his limited opportunities,
nnd if the sale of this book gives him encouragement, we
may expect from his pen further pictures of the national
life. Mr. Chakravarti besides this has a wide knowledge of
Eastern philosophy. His work on Hindu religion and
Yoga, is one of the most readable and valuable book on
the subject. He is not merely a wordy theorist but a prac-
tical worker gifted with a large amount of the clairvoyant
faculty to which I can bear testimony. This is the man
the Psychical Kesearch Society would value. There are no
enterprising publishers in India to encourage such men, so
he is his own publisher. One rupee is a small sum for this
choice little volume and it may be procured by addressing
the author, 12, Ramdhone Mitter's Lane, Shampuker,
Calcutta.
CHAPTER XX.
AN EASTERN EMPRASARIO.
' Tisn't an unhealthy curiosity to ask a man who has
acquired greatness in any department how lie attained it.
On the contrary, young men will derive much profit by
tracing the successive steps and getting at the man in the
egg, so to say. The gentleman whose portrait we give
might pass for an officer of a light cavalry troop. (The
illustration, unfortunately, is very much damaged.) There
is an easy, devil-may-care air Avhich sits well upon him, just
the man who would dawdle up to a cannon's mouth or into
a lady's drawing-room with the same nonchalant air. If
photography gave colours, you would see that his eyes are
a deep blue, the colour of a lucifer match drawn in the
dark, that they have a certain dreamy saduess, which would
puzzle a superficial observer, and yet in those azure depths
there lurks a devil of mirthfulness, which is the key-note
of the man. The doctor feels a pulse to ascertain the
bodily conditions, but a psychic looks into the eyes, the
windows of the soul, out of which the spirit peeps at the-
world. Mr. Twinning has been repeatedly interviewed by
AN EASTERN EMPRASARIO. I5l
the best critics. The outer man is well known. To repeat
the process is as superfluous as importing hawks into
Athens or coals into Newcastle. I shall, however, reveal
what no man — not even Mr. Twinning himself — knows. I
shall scan this mine of theatrical sagacity, and throw a
bull's-eye light on the secret of his success.
It is admitted that Mr. Twinning is one of the great
theatrical managers of the day. Not that I wish to convey
he has been always successful. Quite the reverse. He has
had his ups and downs like the rest of us. A theatrical
manager ! Just tliink how much that means. He must
visit large towns from China to Peru, bring in his train
a number of players of the most varied character and
some with none, engage houses, gauge the taste of his
varied audience, and keep them all in good liumour ; and
when we are tired and worn from desk and office-work,
lie sets us all off either in laughter or tears. It is a large
order ; the duty of a prime minister is a trifle compared
to it, for the minister has many to help him ; tlie manager
must comprise all in himself. Also remember the light
fragile — I was going to say fractious — goods he is trans-
porting, but I withdraw the term. A more rickety bundle
of nerves, crotchets and whimsicalities could not be packed
together than Miss Eloise Juno, Maccabe, Olga Duboin,
Genevieve Ward, the Joram Sisters, Mrs. Alice Shaw,
the Whistling Woman, Brown-Potter, and the Thames-
Amazons* including the performing goose.
Shakespeare says Music has power to soothe the savage
breast : I found that it excited all the savage emotions,
152 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
having several times attempted to manage church choirs,
and in every instance I made a mess of it, offended my
congregation, displeased the singers and seriously disgusted
myself, and then, bear in mind all my party were in one
church. If I had had to cart them about with me, there
would not have been a hair on my head ; and the head
itself would long since be under the green bed-clothes.
Mr. Twinning has been all over the world, vrinning golden
opinions from all sorts and conditions of men. He has
had his troubles, too ; his theatre was burnt down, his
property destroyed, his character assailed, and he has been
libelled, poisoned, envied and abused ; but he has survived
them all.
Surely it is worth while enquiring into the secret of
such success ; but to do so I must hark back on life's
march. A colonial to the backbone, father a shrewd con-
tractor, mother a sweet puritan. If the way to heaven be
through piety, truth and charity, that good woman is there
to welcome her distinguished son when the hghts are put
out here, and the curtain rung down. Strange how this
simple couple should produce a son, with such varied tastes
and attainments ; for he is a man of many parts, the third
of which will never be recorded. As a youth, he was music-
mad. With indomitable perseverance he purchased a har-
monium and practised at a friend's house till he attained a
proficiency, which afterwards won him a German certificate
— no slight matter. He opened a musical academy, took
pupils, and gained testimonials from several families of
cojisequence. Then he started on anotlier track that of
AN EASTERN EMPRASARTO. 153
organist. Little did the vicar of St. Matthew, Dunedin,
imagine that the slender lad in the organ-loft was
dreaming of sweet faces, operas, and tights, and not ahsor-
bing his pious discourses. The next slide on the life
journey was the perilous venture of running an opera as
manager, which, though a failure, prompted him to repeat
the attempt. Ever since he has been catering for the
public.
Now for my secret. 'Among Mr. Twinning's accom-
plishments is the gift cT thought-reading and the capacity
of receiving subtle impressions of men and places. I can
perceive that his nature is psychic to a remarkable degree.
The contractor may have given him a turn for business, the
sweet Puritan mother his warm generoas heart, but at best
his earthly parents only lent him a body ; the real rollick-
ing, mysterious ubiquitous Ego was once masquerading
in Babylon, conjuring in Egypt, puzzling the oracles in
Greece, acting in the games in old Rome, playing with the
mummers in England under Elizabeth. The last thirty
years of his life is only a postscript to what went before.
Methuselah in green old age is a baby in arms compared
to the real man. The Tasmanian Twinning is only
lacquer : to find the real man, the long galleries of Time
should be searched. The astral light only reveals a few
thousand years of his life, there is still a wide vesta beyond,
Atalanta and Lamuria must be searched, for it was in the
latter country, before it got submerged, that he had his
first birth.
CHAPTER XXI.
THE AMAZONS OF THE THAMES COMPANY.
A SHORT preface is needed here. A strolling company
of players had taken the Corinthian Theatre for a short
period. A very full house greeted their first night's per-
formance. The acting was so poor that more than a third
of the people left before the piece was over. Disappoint-
ment sat on every countenance. The notice next day in
the Indian Dailji News sharply commented on the vulgar
production. The company resented the criticism, a domi-
ciliary visit was paid the office and the editor cowardly
assaulted by the women of the company, besides his action
was made the subject of ribald songs, jests and offensive
lampoons calculated to give offence. Various and absurd
rumours were circulated, so that the editor was constrained
to give his version of the transaction, Now, reader, judge
for yourself ; the full report is before you.
T}tE MARCH OF THE AMAZONS.
A little after 8 o'clock last night, as we were in the-
act of getting into lyyjamas, a domiciliary visit was paid to
A2JAZ0XS OF THE THAMES COMPANY. 155-
ns of a most astonishing character. Just at this time the
house was almost deserted, the bearers gone home, our
servants had left, and silence reigned from the printer's
office to our suite of apartments over the editorial rooms.
Feeling somewhat tired after a busy day's work, we were in
the act of fastening on the particular article of clothing
which society does not choose to designate, and which we,
with customary respect for conventionality, would rather die
than mention. The string which supports in its place the
unmentionable article, had disappeared like one of those
underground rivers which have a habit of hiding and
emerging Avhen least expected. We were indulging in some
inarticulate but decidedly strong language on the occurrence,
for, let severe moralists say what they will, even a bishop
might be permitted in a little profanity on a similar
occasion.
NIGHT VISITORS.
Suddenly in the gloaming, for the lamp was half turned
on, and the room in semi-darkness, a female figure appeared
followed by a second and a third. This sensibly added to-
the embarrassment of the situation, for a grizzled old
bachelor like ourselves is not much honoured by the pre-
sence of the fair. sex. One of the ladies in question pro-
ceeded cautiously and firmly, as if she had the run of our
rooms, to turn up the lamp, entered our bed-room, and
drew h newspaper from her pocket. " Are you the Editor
of the Indian Daily News ?" She asked in a cool, tetchy
voice, with pauses. We answered in the affirmative, not
156 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
having the remotest idea of what was coming, but modesty
prompting us to grasp firmly at the pyjamas which, owing
to the absence of the string, to use the Gladstone phrase,
was within measurable distance falling to the ground.
Then slowly, and with excellent enunciation, she read to us
our brief notice of the first theatrical appearance of the
Thames Company, which we are bound to say was the
reverse of complimentary, though written in perfect honesty
and good faith. It is neither our habit or intention to
bolster a lie, or deal fulsome praise, where condemnation
is deserved. " Have you written this ? she asked. Our
answer was in the affirmative.
A DELICATE SITUATION.
On the authority of Dean Swift, eleven men, well
armed, will certainly subdue one man in his shirt. "We
hazard a similar statement that three women well armed are
more than a match for one man in a shaky pyjaina. We
nevertheless stood our ground with all the dignity we could
muster, and in silence listened to language of abuse which
was classic in its profanity. To be called a liar, a brute,
and an inhuman wretch, conveys no notion of the repertoire
of the language commanded by the ladies of the " Thames
Company." We only once in a long experience heard
language as foul and offensive ; it proceeded from the lips
of a young girl in a critical, surgical operation in Paris.
AN APOLOGY REFUSED.
It then dawned on us what utter depravity and loath-
some baseness might be concealed under a beautiful costume
AMAZONS OF THE THAMES COMPANY. 157
and the attractive exterior of a woman. An instant and
immediate apology was demanded. This we declined to
give, whereupon these three women became transformed
into a species of triple hell-cat, using the foulest impreca-
tions. We stood our ground, holding our garments toge-
ther, while inwardly we were convulsed with laughter in
contemplating three enraged females using the language of
abuse witli a force and enthusiasm which would make a deaf-
mute howl, a rare experience even to a veteran journalist.
We who have all our life been engaged in succouring
the weak against the strong, and the pledged defender of
women and little children, to be denounced as an unquali-
fied creature of depravity, was a perfectly novel sensation.
We did not know even the names of our assailants. We
listened to them acting on Saturday in the company of a
depraved goose floating on a paper sea. The goose had the
advantage of the players, for she was articulate, and they
"were not. Now the articulation of one of the women was^
splendid and no mistake. The shortest of these creatures,
"with saucer eyes and lips that suggested the mouth of the
Ganges, perceiving that we made no response, invited our
opinion on her language.
YOU DARLING.
Through a species of reckless devilry and full of admi-
ration of the splendid display of demoniac fury, we uttered
the word's, "You darling," which only elicited a yell of pas-
sion. " Beast, coward, dog," and other explosives were
turned out ; the stream was not yet dry. The girl with the
158 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
saucer eyes proceeded to further extremities by drawing
something invisible from her sleeve, and aimed a blow at
our head, which we defended Avith our arm, otherwise the thin
wire would have cut our face through. AYith a dexterous
movement we grasped her hand, and made her drop this
dangerous weapon. The other two danced round us yelling
all the time. We then put a stop to the interview by for-
cibly ejecting them from the room. On the stairs two male
members of the Company were waiting, much in the same
state of mind as that of a few sportsmen who sent a terrier
into a hole to uneartli a badger, doubtful as to weather the
badger or the terrier would come out first. They greeted
ns with curses loud and deep ; the women in parting spat in
our face, and went downstairs yelling and screaming like
demoniac spirits set loose from hell. An attempt was made
to upset a lamp and burn the premises, which we prevented.
If these ladies honour us again with a visit, we shall be
better prepared for them, and we shall hold Mr. Twinning
responsible for any accidents which may follow. We also
give warning that our action will not be passive, for under
the above circumstances further patience might degenerate
into vice.
THE TAVINNIXG GOOSE.
We are not disposed to be too hard on Mr. Twinning,
for he has done us good service, and provided us during the
dull months with a most refined set of actord in the
Lyric Company. He must have been utterly ignorant of
the character of the present mummers. Mr. Twinning,
AMAZONS OF THE THAMES COMPANY. 159
however, sets great store on the theatrical goose, which
highly diverted the audience on Saturday night. It is a
diabolical fowl, and we advise our energetical lessee to take
it home, fatten, and eat it at Christmas. In assimilating
the fowl, he may imbibe wisdom,
THE EFFECT OP THE VISIT.
After this noisy interview, we sat down, and simply
exploded with laughter. We had suppressed so much that
there was an accumulation of merriment inside, constituting
a perfect reservoir of mirth. We felt in danger of being
cracked in several places. If we had not turned out some
of it, the consequences would be serious ; it is not all out
yet. The faces of these women looked a whole Webster's
unabridged, including pictures, while the laugh of scorn
which saluted us when we charged them with profaning
the rehgious emotions of the Irish people in the vulgar
song, was the most ghastly joke perpetrated outside of a
morgue. We cannot resist giving a personal description
of the occurrence for the benefit of our brother journalists
as a sample of the reward a man wins in India for doing
his duty, by guarding the public against vulgarity and
profanation.
CHAPTER XXII.
JOHN CHINAMAN, M.D.
China is a fantastic country, a preposterous combination
of solemn nonsense and classical caricature, a sort of spon-
taneous upside-downness and inside-outness which can
neither be exaggerated nor exhausted. In the Flowery
Land there are doctors for all kinds of diseases. Specialism
is the order of the day.
To begin with, there are doctors for cold diseases and
doctors for hot, doctors for diseases of wind, and doctors
for diseases of water, for women, babies, and old men.
Tchung tsen, the most eminent medical practitioner in
China, is the seventh son of a seventh son, forty-nine
doctors in one, forty-nine times muddled. He is a happy
compound of pedant, quack, fortune-teller and spirit-rapper,
flavoured with a dash of Confucian priest, " Just for the
look of the -thing." The Imperial College of medicine at
Peking is not like our College of Surgeons, insisting that
her alumni are well grounded in knowledge bef6re sending
them into the world. It is little more than an exclusive
club for professional mutual admiration, or a convocation of
JOHN CHINAMAN, M. D. IGl
medical referees for arbitrament in case of malpractice. It
has neitlier tlie power nor the disposition to check quacks ;
it does, liowever, punish offenders who are too poor to bribe
the functionaries in office. To conchide from tliis tliat
John Chinaman's education was narrow would be a rash
conjecture. The course of reading is so tremendous as to
take away one's breath. 1 shall only specify a few of the
leading medical works. These are Chau-shi-Thung's " Uni-
versal Medicine," Ghing-me-Thee's " Principal Veins of the
Empire of Medicine" (traced by Wang-Keng-theng long
before Har\'ey came into the world, sometime about the
birth of I^oah's second son,) Wang-Shu-Hoo on " The
Pulse," Fung-Se-Kan's "Motley Silk Bag of Deep Learn-
ing on Diseases," King-Mu's " I^atural History of Neces-
saries," Sing-Po-Ku on " The Nature and Preparation of
Medicine," and, finally, Pu-Ken-Mu's " The Brain and
Stomach," f'ontinued by his son Si-Kan-Yung, and
illustrated by Kan-Cho-Ko, an astounding compilation in
forty awful volumes, De Omnibus, Anatomical, Obstetrical,
Rebus et Quibusdam, Botanical, Therapeutical Aliis.
Having stuffed all the power of this learning into his
memory for handy reference, he is prepared to l^ogin
practice.
Tchung-tsen does not believe in modesty ; he is not con-
tent to put his plate on the door for the best of reasons —
no door in China could contain all his titles. He has re-
course to t&e daily papers, and advertises as extensively as
HoIIoway, Pears, or the whole fraternity. He does this in
a simple, ingenious manner, alluding to himself in the third
XI
162 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
person. Here is a sample : " Towers are measured by their
shadows, and great men by those who envy them. Envy
has taken the measure of Tchung-tsen, and found him
lofty. The foundation of Tchung-tsen is deep ; it is set iu
the bowels of mystery and his pinnacle is high ; it glows in
the light of truth ; his feet are planted among the seci'ets
of earth, and his head is lifted among the discoveries of
heaven. Envy and deride Tchung-tsen if you are proud
and foolish ; honour and imitate him if you are humble and
wise ; for he has wished to promote the good of others,
therefore he has secured his own. But do not think to
flatter him. Flattery is his wife ; he listens to her politely
but does not believe her. He has more roots than branches ;
he cannot be overthrown by the wind. Only let us invoke
that which he has no right to silence — his learning, and
pubhsh that which he has no right to conceal — his skill."
Tchung-tsen knows the value of personality, and sets
forth his method of securing a practice with frankness.
When the immortal worthies first sent forth Tchung-tsen
to sprinkle over humanity the waters of healing, he set out
hurrahing in his heart and warbling the " Bright blossomed
ode." Like a well-bred man, he accepts his commission
with modesty and undertakes his duty with confidence. No
coolies or asses go before him in a pompous train, panting
and groaning 'under bloated hampers and bursting sacks.
His furniture, compact and precious, he carries with simpli-
city ; in his head all the maxims of Whang-Tee, the im-
mortal leech, all the prescriptions of Ko-He up his sleeve,
^11 the charms of Fum-Ko in his queue, all the golden
JOHN CHINA iM AN, M. D. 163
simples of Few-Kun in his blue bag, and the pearl pills
and ruby plasters of Hu-Kek-Ne in his pocket.
Tchung-tsen neither advertises nor juggles ; his talents
are their own sign. When you seek him you can find no
other doctor, though a thousand get in the way. Where
there is musk, there will be perfume ; to smell it, one need
not stand in the wind. Tchung-tsen is no blind fowl,
pecking at random for worms ; his knowledge is sure.
He does not climb a tree to hunt for a fish, nor turn over
the hver to hunt for diseases of the lungs. He does not
send you an olive on the pate of Buddhist priest, nor
engage to perform impossible cures, or turn somersaults
in an oystershell. He is no toad in a well, contemplating a
patch of sky ; the strong calm eye of his philosophy surveys
the universe as from a dome, and takes in at a glance all the
demonstrations of science, the delusions of ignorance, and
the devices of imposture. He knows that all errors have
their brief seasons ; that after a hundred millions of lies, the
smallest truth remains precisely what it was before ; and so
he waits, and smiles. And his charges are very moderate.
Diseases, when he calls them, answer to their names,
and spirits, vapours, elements and forces assert themselves
before him, like feathers under the fingers of the flower-
maker. At his bidding, disorders, the most complicated
resolve themselves into their several members, and have
each a tongue to tell him what they mean. As his large
benevolence? knows no distinction of persons in the ranks
of the afSicted, so his conscientious genius appoints no
degree of interest to the various styles of disease, but
164 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
applies itself with equal science and concern to the bunion
on the big toe of the mouse-catcher and the cataract in the
eye of a mandarhi. The memory of Tchung-tsen is in-
fallible, and the dimensions of his nose are conformable
with dignity ; his heart is tender, and his fist is spherical ;
his speech is impressive, and his spectacle-glasses, set in
tortoise-shell frames, are two inches and a half in diameter ;
the length of his queue is regulated by the exactions of
public opinion. He has an auspicious mole under his left
eye, and his charges are very moderate.
On the subject of anatomy Tchung-tsen has some
startling views, even from a Chinese point of view. For
example, he liolds that there is a difference between arteries
and veins ; that in most Chinese subjects the blood is
conveyed by these in opposite directions, not always
downward by the arteries nor always upward by the veins ;
that the heart is a part of the machinery by which this
hydraulic process is carried on, and that, under certain
circumstances, depending upon the disposition of the five
rulers, the blood undergoes a change in passing through
the lungs. He has one name for the brain, and another
for the spinal cord. He has, also, a pulse for every organ
but the brain.
His great theory is that every organ of the body is
allied to one of the five elements — earth, wood, metal, fire,
and water, which are either hot, cold, moist, dry, or windy.
These, again, correspond to the five directions middle, east,
west, south, and north, and are represented by the five
colours — yellow, green, white, red, and black.
JOHN CHINAMAN, M. D. 105
Thus, the heart being allied to the element fire, corres-
ponds to the direction south, and is represented by the
colour red. Consequently, all derangements of the heart
must proceed from excess of the principle of heat and dry-
ness, and should be treated with black medicines, corres-
ponding to the direction of the north, and representing
the element of water. And the bowels being allied to the
element eartli, correspond to the direction middle, and are
represented by the colour yellow. Consequently, all dis-
orders of the bowels must proceed from excess of the prin-
ciple of wind, and, should be treated with medicines com-
pounded of black, red, green, and white ingredients, cor-
responding to the direction — north, south, east, and west,
and representing the elements — water, fire, wood, and metal.
A lovely system ! So natural in its simplicity and harmony
that in theory it reads like an idyl, and in practice it must
be one of the pleasures of imagination to be killed by it.
Tchung-tsen's theory of the pulse is equally novel. He
holds that there are different pulses, corresponding to the
lieart, lungs, liver, and all the other organs, and that, to
feel the pulse scientifically, you must feel them all, one
after the other, and sometimes several together, in order to
determine their several relations. Tchung-tsen plays on
his patient's twenty-four pulses with all his fingers, and
maintains a protracted telegraphic correspondence with his
twenty-four insides. The materia medica of Tchung-tsen
is delicious. Asses' glue and birds' nests are mild tonics ;
stag's glue, dog's flesh, and walnuts strengthen the kidneys ;
iron filings, loadstone, and silverleaf repress weakness ;
166 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
camphor, centipedes, snake's skin and tiger's bones disperse
■wind; soapstone, amber and red hairs are laxatives ; water-
melon, bamboo-shavings, verdigris and warm water are
cooling purgatives.
In China the medical profession is neither glorious nor
lucrative. The visits of the doctor are not cliarged for at
all. His complicated " simples" are sold cheap and always
on credit. It is also a custom of tlie country not to pay
for medicine which the patient may fancy has done him no
good. Poor Tchung-tsen often spends three pounds to
collect one, and if the patient is so thoughtless or incon-
siderate as to die, his sudden departure may be the death.
of his medical adviser.
CHAPTER XXIIl.
"THE HIDDEN POWERS IN MAN."
It has never been decided whether our first parent was
a man with complete mental and physical endowments or
a mere animal waiting the slow results of time to develop
his powers until they reached maturity. Some liold that
Adam was perfect and fell through disobedience, but many
reject the theory on moral grounds, boldly maintaining that
the expulsion from the Garden of Delight owing to the
apple dumpling incident, was a punishment entirely dispro-
portioned to the offence. Others maintain that Adam was
the rubbish of a man improved gradually like a potato by
change of soil and similar accidents. Suppose for argu-
ment sake we incline towards the latter theory that Adam
in his primitive state was a mere animal, imperfect and
even devoid of speech. How are we to reconcile discrepant
statements ? The Bible says that God gave him dominion
over the beasts of the field and the fowls of the air. In
his primitive condition he was destitute of effective weapons
1G8 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
of offence and defence such as have been evolved during the
long ages of civilisation. He was surrounded by a monstrous
fauna capable of annihilating the present race of mankind
could it suddenly be resurrected and turned loose in its
old numbers. In what then consisted the power of pri-
mitive man to assert and maintain his God-given dominion
over the monsters of his day and generation ? It must be
the same power which is now exceptionally exercised by the
artificial displacement of consciousness.
MODERN RESEARCH.
We are vastly indebted to the Society of Psychical
Research for its careful and painstaking labours in examin-
ing the marvellous discoveries of the French schools of
Hypnotists, medical pathological cases, and a mass of un-
authenticated literature. These highly qualified gentlemen
have proved beyond the possibility of doubt that there
exist long dormant subjective powers hidden under the
muck heap of imposture and charlatanry. From this we
surmise that Adam, though an inarticulate animal with
undeveloped faculties, held a dominion over bird and beast
as potent and far more effective than it is to-day with all
the appliances of civilisation at our command.
HISTORICAL EVIDENCE.
Facts are not wanting to sustain the proposition that
man in a subjective condition is safe from the attacks of
wild beasts. One of the first recorded cases is that of
Daniel. Society regarded him as a prophet and seer. Our
materialistic age doubted even the existence of such powers
" THE HIDDEN POWERS IN 31 AN:' 1G9
until a body of intellectual men, whose character and
ability is above reproach, boldly grappled the difficulty and
placed the facts beyond controversy. Daniel was a man of
great subjective powers, or, in other words, the capacity of
his mind was highly developed. In this state he was thrown
into the lion's den with the result recorded. Some time ago
a young lady in Paris was hypnotised and placed in a den
of lions. The result was just the same as that recorded of
the ancient prophet. She had no fear of the lions and the
lions paid not the slightest attention to her. Indian
devotees and inferior priests of the Buddhist faith often
display a similar power by entering the jungles infested by
man-eating tigers. An ordinary man would not live an
hour there. They on the contrary remain there all night
Avilh no weapon of defence save the God-given powers of
the soul. It has also been noticed that idiots and insane
persons can tame and subdue animals. Their immunity
from harm by animals howevev ferocious is proverbial.
In all such persons the "objective mind" is wholly or
partially in abeyance, and the "subjective mind" propor-
tionately active.
ANIMAL LIFE.
Again notice the power in training animals such as
elephants, wolves, dogs and horses. In Austria a law
requires Army horses to be mesmerized for the jiurpose of
shooing them. This process was introduced by a cavalry
officer named Balassa, and lience it has been known as the
" Balasserin of horses." It was the secret of Rarey and
170 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
Sullivan, the celebrated horse tamers. The wildest colts
and the most vicious horses can be subdued in an hour.
The lion tamer and snake-charmer uses precisely the same
power. The faculty is often exercised unconsciously. Not
long ago 1 saw a young lady in the Red Road riding a
vicious brute with perfect command. It was not a question
of nerve, hands or seat. She did not steer the animal by
physical force or the power of the whip, she simply sat on
her saddle as lightly as a feather and directed his motions
entirely by her will. She was in " subjective" rapport with
the animal. Both horse and rider formed a company, and
she was senior partner. There was great wisdom in the^
old fox-hunter's advice to a young rider how he should
take his fences : " Throw your heart over the hedge and
your horse is sure to follow." There are several good riders
in Calcutta, any of these gentlemen can test the truth of
the recommendation. Let one steer by whip and spur and
anotlier by will-power alone in selecting a fence or cross
road, and notice the difference. The rider and horse must
of course be on intimate terms. Let him merely fix his
eyes and will on the road or fence, and when the horse
arrives at the spot where the selection is to be made, the
animal will follow the course mentally selected by his rider
with the same alacrity as if the stables had been in full view.
The writer has done this repeatedly with several horses
without a single failure. I have sometimes lost myself by
influencing the horse to go a wrong way because 1 was
thinking it was the right one, whereas if the animal had
been left alone he would not have made a mistake.
*
" THE HJDDEN POWERS IN MAN:' 171
THE STRONGEST EVIDENCE.
This proves unmistakably that there are resident in
man hidden powers which have not been deveh:)ped, owing
to ignorance, cowardice or purely superstitious notions of
man and his career. The capacity of the " subjective man,"
whatever name it may be given — Ego, self, soul or inner
monitor, the name does not matter a rush — is infinitely
more potent than the objective mind. Electricity is known
as a great force in physical nature, and it is liarnessed
and made to perform many services to mankind. Like all
the great forces of nature, it is invisible, except through its
effects, and it defies analysis. Electricity will never be
known to man except as one of the great correlated forces.
It is equally impossible to know the powers of the sub-
jective mind, but we can and ought to learn their action.
For it is this which guilds the dream of the poet, the in-
spiration of the orator, the soul of the painter, the mind of
the inventor, and is generally known as 'genius,' a word
which only covers our ignorance. A new road-way of
direct experiment will have to be driven into the jungle
of those obscure phenomena which science has so long-
neglected. We are imperatively called on to extend our
internal vision as the telescope and microscope has ex-
tended the external.
A PRACTICAL ILLUSTRATION.
The powers of the subjective compared to the objective
mind may be likened to a man born in a cave in which the
light of the sun never entered. Here he is supplied only
172 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
with a ruslilight with which to grope his way and find the
means of suhsistence. The light thougli feeble is invalu-
able to him : for by its means he is enabled gradually to
learn his bearings, to take of his environment, to make
occasional discoveries for the necessities of life, and finally
to achieve some of the comforts of existence. The more
he discovers the more he appreciates the value of the rush-
light and the more he boasts of its transcendant illumina-
tion. He hears vague rumours of an outside world full of
unknown joys and pleasures, and he resolves to grope his
way out. He is told that this outside world is lighted by
a great luminary which will render his rushlight of no
value except as a reminder of the limitations of his cave
life. But he is sceptical and points with pride to the accu-
mulations and discoveries made by the aid of his " God-
_given illuminant," and refuses to believe that there is a
possible existence which would be tolerable without rush-
lights. At length a cataclysm of nature throws him upon
this outside world in the full blaze of a noon-day sun. He
then finds that he is in a world of hght ; that he can
perceive things as they are and observe their bearings and
relations to each other, and he finds the rays of his rush-
light no longer visible.
CONCLUSION.
It is obvious that the above is but a feeble illustration
of the difference between the powers of inductivS inquiry
and those of perception possessed by the subjective "entity."
Recent experiments and observations have thrown fresh but
" THE HIDDEN POWERS IN MAN:' \1?>
scattered light upon the working of tliat part of ourselves
which lies below the threshold of ordinary consciousness,
' Inward,' the coarse of empire takes its way. And all
man's progress has been a slow unfolding of the primal
germ. Every sense that he developed, every faculty that
he has won, has been but tlie entry into the treasure-house
of prehistoric gold. We ascend with toilsome steps the
mount at whose foot we have waited so long in helplessness,
till the voice or the thunder come to us in our darkness.
Man's experiments on the world within Lim will yield a
rich return ; for our ordinary consciousness is but a float-
ing island upon the abysmal deep of that total individual-
ity beneath it. The waves which wash under one end of
our narrow standingplace are continuous with the waves
which wash under the other. Thus self-reverence, self-
control and self-knowledge together with bodily chastity
■will enable man to be the ruler of his own spirit, the
fashioner of his own fate, and perhaps also enable him to
imbibe direct truth from the Eternal source before his work
in this world is finished.
CHAPTER XXiV.
D'ARC'S MARIONETTES.
There is hardly one who would, wish to live his life over
again even if a spirit could give him the power : there is so
much of toil, trouble, and pain in the world. There are,
however, times in every one's life — brief snatches of exis-
tence, full of joy, gladness, and absence of responsibility —
that every one would wish to recall. This is why people
love to travel, read books, and listen to stories of adven-
ture. The grave Judge on the bench and the solemn
Clergyman in his pulpit, as well as the school-boy and the
little girl with her doll, all love stories, which, in one form
or another, deal with love, adventure, buried treasure, and
deeds of daring. The reason is that everyone is trying to
find himself in the story he reads, or, in other words, is
groping round in the invisible world and trying to be
amused with gleams of another state and a past existence.
The every-day life of little folk is one huge make-believe.
They lire, move, and inhabit a world of their own. The
history of shares or companies, law-making or sordid things
of ^-his world has no interest for them.
D'ARCS MARIONETTES. 175
ANCIENT PU0T0TYPE8.
The greatest of men, from Homer to those of our day,
■achieved fame by telling stories. Shakespeare has given
us " Oberon the King of Fairies," " Queen Titania who
frolicked in the moonliglit with Puck, Ariel, and the
invisible Dwellers of the forest." The poet did not invent
these characters ; they existed long before him — back in
the grey morning of tlie world's history, long before Noah
entered the Ark. Shakespeare described what he saw.
Millions of years before this planet was ready for the
human race, the huge Gregorii dwelt among the mountains,
while earth, fire and water had their inhabitants just as now
every leaf of the forest has its dwellers and every drop of
water its monster-mites.
These are the cosmic agents of Nature seen in storm-
clouds and felt in the liearts of men. Some are hostile,
others friendly, to the human race. Some can perceive
men, while others are no more aware of man's existence
than he is of theirs. The heart of man is cognizant of
those influences, while the ordinary vision is blind to the
appearances. Every race that inhabits the earth has its
traditions concerning them, as seen in the literature of
India, Egypt, Greece, Rome, Italy, Germany and England.
The modern race has gained in material wealth and lost
its spirituality. The hard prosaic man of the world lias
ceased to believe in this literature, regarding it as childish.
But the heart of a child is truer than the brain of a. man.
One must obtain the heart of a child to inherit the
Kingdom of Heaven or pass the threshold of Fairy Laud.
176 INDIAN SKETCHES A AW RAMBLES.
LAND OF DOLLS.
So firm was the belief in Elf Land that people tried to
give images of those little beings of another world. This
was tlie origin of the Fantoccini or family of Marionettes
known at the Courts of Pharaohs and found in the tombs
of Egypt and Etruria. The puppet-show has come down to
us from the past witli a long train of classic associations.
In the 13th century, Neurenberg was the head-quarters of
dollism. There are more dolls made in Germany than in
all other countries put together. The Marionettes ushered
in the theatre. In later times they have been employed to
illustrate events and doings of modern life. Cervantes in
Spain and Le Sage in France illustrated their great works
by puppet-shows. In England, they were pressed into
military and political service. The heroic deeds of Napoleon
and Nelson, and the courage of Grace Darhng, were
illustrated by puppets.
PRESENT SHOW.
The D'Arc Marionette Show is the latest and most
improved puppet troupe in the world. They have travelled
in every country, from England to Japan, from Hongkong
to South Africa. From the Prince of Wales to the
Governors of the Colonies, they have been welcomed by
all, who were delighted with them. The little folk in
Calcutta should lose no time in visiting their pretty theatre
on the Maidan. Its beautiful blue curtains 'and gold
frame-work lit with electricity — the dynamo worked by an
oil engine supplied by Messrs. Kilburn & Co. — will remaia
UAIiCS MARIONETTES. Ill
in the memory ; a vivid picture which tlie dust of the world
cannot obliterate. What lies behind that curtain I shall
presently describe, but first, I must give the history of the
Exhibition.
LAMBERT d'aRC.
About forty years ago a .clever French artist joined
Madame Tussaud's Great Wax-Work Exhibition in
London. It was here that Lambert D'Arc got his first
idea which culminated in the present exhibition. Scenic
effects, and models with knee and mouth joints, were
introduced, costumes and other accessories added, creating
beautiful and artistic effect. The present exhibition is the
result of years of labour, skill, and artistic talent. Mon.
D'Arc gave his first show in Dublin. It was when he saw
his little girls take delight in the puppets constructed for
their amusement that he took seriously to the business,
starting with his own family on a tour all over the world.
He was successful and welcomed everywhere. Three years
ago he died at the ripe age of seventy-three leaving the
Show to his girls. William, his youngest son, inherits his
father's talent both as a modeller and scene painter. The
glade in Fairy Land with the magnificent gold lattices, the
abode of the Fairies, the dazzling coruscations of enchanted
jewels, and the bubbling silver waters of Elf Land are his.
Mr. William D'Arc not only possesses artistic gifts, but
skill in another direction. While visiting Manilla a great
fight was got up between a bull and a tiger. When the
hour of battle came the tiger declined the combat and
178 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
sluak off, much to the disappointment of the pectatois
assembled to witness this brutal encounter. Mr. D'Arc at
once conceived the idea of a Imll-fight for the Marionettes.
The next night a wooden bull and a stufted tiger were
constructed, and a tremendous fight took place between
them at the Marionette Theatre. JManilhi went wild with
excitement over it,
THE FOUR SISTERS.
The Show is in the hands of the family. All the
costumes are designed and fitted by Miss Emily D'Arc,
who is general costumer to the Court, Miss ISTellie leads
the singing. Miss Marie D'Arc looks after the front of
the house and like Judas keeps the bag. There is not a
Jew in Palestine or a Marwari in Calcutta that she could
nut give points to, and win all rourid. It would be down-
right injustice to the public to omit this trait of character.
Young people will now want to know how the puppets are
brought into action. Some think it is from the sides or
the back of tlie stage. Nothing of the kind. The strings
are fastened at the top of a movable frame. The manipu-
lators lean over a bridge above the stage, talking and sing-
ing as the action of the figures requires. From 10 to 60
strings are used for each. The puppets are all hung up
inside ready to perform their parts. Great skill is displayed
in directing tlie movements by means of a number of
striRgs. Tiiere are about 87 figures. But before their
property was destroyed by fire in Australia they had as
^many as 3G0 figures. No stranger is admitted behind the
ly ARC'S MARIONETTES. 179
scenes, and the nietliod of working the strings is ke])t a
profound secret.
THK SHOW.
It is worth being a cliild. again to witness INTons. and
Madame Blondin on the tiglit rope, tlie inebriated M. Pier-
rot on stilts, and the " Old Woman who lived in a Shoe,"
with her irrepressible progeny issuing from her pockets and
coming to life suddenly after being knocked down l)y her
stick. The Court Minstrels were excellent. The Planta-
tion Dance was actually life-like. Step by step as the
entertainment advanced, the interest in the figures grew and
intensified. Beautiful and gorgeous scenery followed. The
Pantomime of " Blue -^eard and the beautiful Fatima"
never tires, while the movements of the Impish Page added
another feature to the play.
FAIRY SCEXE.
Then followed the Transformation Scene with the Ivory
Palace, Golden Ftain, the Fairy's Dell and other dreamy
scenes, which, for ages, have amused the childhood of
nations, and, like Love,, will never die. The Compound
Turk, whose limbs develop into dolls, and the Magnetic
Skeleton, whose bones tossed and danced about in a
bewildering fashion, are mechanical works which will be
remembered with awe by every child. Tiie Harlequinade
caused side-splitting laughter with its fun and drollery.
The Ballooh ascent with the long drop took the audience
by storm. The stage scenes were perfect in equipment
and gorgeous in ell'ect : the Clown, the Policeman, the
180 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
Dog, and all the cliaracters associated with the Pantomime
on the real stage are there, and act their parts to the life.
The dazzling costumes of the Fairies were brilliant in the
extreme, and warm cheers and hearty laughter everywhere
greet them.
INTERVIEW WITH MISS MARIE d'aRC.
My acquaintance witli the subject of this interview was
made in the brilliant little Theatre on the Maidan. I was
favoured with an invitation to her hotel, wliere the fol-
lowing conversation took place: —
"Miss D'Arc." I remarked, "you have travelled all
over the world. I wish to get some of your views on the
people and places you have visited : your mannikins must
have had some strange adventures."
" Undoubtedly," she answered, " we have had some
rare experiences — enough to fill a book. My difficulty
is to know where to begin. There is Vladivostock, for
instance."
" Yes, a Russian country, Siberia in particular, a place
close to the Corea, is one about which I should like to hear
something."
Miss Marie is a vivacious woman with a large amount
of affability which she squanders in smiles that has actually
no connection with her real character. She is more artificial
than any of her dolls. Her imitation of youth is, however,
splendid.
" What is the town like ?" I asked, reading her face.
• " A large straggling place, horribly dirty and fearfully
HA RCS MA RIONETTES. 181
cold. Fancy ! We had to dress in slieep skins, and even
then they did not keep out the cold. Everything was
curious in the place.
" Nothing could be done without official permission.
We had to build our own Theatre, and when the walls were
completed they would not allow us to put a roof on. It
was a great brick building. They kept us waiting for
weeks, and then we had to be content with a canvas cover-
ing. We were compelled to keep buckets of water ready
in case of fire. This was of little use, for the water always
got frozen. The place they called a hotel was abominably
dirty. We could get nothing to drink but coffee and beer,
and tliose only at the most extortionate charges. CofTee
was seventy-five cents a cup and beer a dollar a Jiint. Men
and Avomen smoke constantly, even at meals. There was
interference everywhere, and no one dare refuse an official.
One night the Prefect of Police came to our Theatre. He
thought the piano too close to him. The play had to be
stopped in order to remove the instrument to the other side
of the room. Russians at Vladivostock hate the Japanese.
I may add that we had the honour to be the first Britisli
Entertainment Company that has ever visited Siberia.
Our reason for going there was, that we were compelled
to leave Japan and could not go to Hong Kong, w'here
quarantine had been established, owing to the plague. We
had to go somewhere."
" Whfft did you think of the Corea ?"
"A curious tumble-down country with a poor half-stai-ved
peo])le. We put up with some missionaries at Gensaui,
182 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
The inlaabitants are timid, dirty, but harmless. Their
dress is so strange that 1 could not distinguish the sexes.
Boys and girls looked alike. I have no wish to visit
Siberia again. The cold was simply horrible."
" Did the puppets ever give offence ?"
" Only on one occasion. In new Caledonia we in-
troduced a little flunky with side whiskers. This was
regarded with offence. And we were ordered at once 1o
remove the figure, as he bore a striking resemblance to the
French governor."
" Where was the Show most successful ?"
" In Africa undoubtedly. At Capetown, Kimberley,
and Johannesberg they created quite a furore. All through
the country we drew full houses. I like the people of
South Africa very much. They are both hospitable and
kindly."
" Did you find travelling in Africa agreeable ?"
" Well, it was rough work at times. We had bullock
and mule teams to take us from town to town. This stjde
of travelling is most enjoyable as the climate is glorious.
Vie exhibited in all sorts of places. At Johannesberg we
had to pay £85 a week for a corrugated iron building lit "by
parrafin lamps, and had to send on the money two months
in advance. We did well notwithstanding these drawbacks,
and remained there ten weeks."
" Was it remunerative " ? I asked.
"«Yes. In six nights the receipts were £l',700. We
charged £3 for a box, and had the gallery crowded ^yith
Jvaffirs at 4^. a seat."
U A EC'S JIA RIONETTES. 1 83
" Miss D'Arc, will you tell me how the Salvation Aruij^
took your parody of tlieir " Fire and Tliunder Gospel ? "
" Oil ! S|)]endidly," she answered. '• They were not
the least offended. They accepted the representation as a
compliment and sent us a War cri/, addressing my fatlier
as Captain D'Arc."
"You have heen in the ^lauritius," I remarked.
" Were the French friendly ?"
" Yes. They gave a very warm reception. The most
anmsing tiling al)out Ihe French was their persisting in the
I)elief that the puppet-; were real living people. They went
so far as to throw bouquets on the stage to " Fatima." We
had a successful time in the Mauritius, notwithstanding
i]\e fact that small-pox was raging : the death rate averaged
forty to fifty daily."
"It seems you had a smooth course all along," I
remarked.
'• ISTo, indeed. We have had our trails, and plenty of
them. At Cooktown in Queensland a terrible disaster
occurred. We were perfi^rming when the Post Office next
door caught fire and the Theatre was burned down. All
our property, scenery, dresses, and over 300 figures, were
destroyed."
" "What did you do then ?"
'• Oil, we made the best of it. All the Company went
up to the l)ash, and worked as hard as we could for six
months at the new figures we now have in use." •
" You have played to all sorts of people," I remarked,
after congratulating her on their couracre.
184 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
" Yes, we have played to all classes from Royalty to
]iearl divers in Singapore. The latter took great interest
in our aquarium. They used to vociferously applaud our
little men when they went down and picked a shell from
the stage."
" You visited China and Japan. What did you think
of these countries ?"
" I liked the Chinese very much indeed. They patron-
ised us amazingly. I was not, however, smitten with
Canton. In fact, it was not quite safe to play in the
Chinese quarter, though we were offered a large sum to do
so. The Mandarin offered us a guard, but we were desired
to remain niglit and day in the Theatre, otherwise our safety
could not be guaranteed."
" iJid you accept the offer ?"
" No. It was declined with thanks. "We played,
however, in the English cantonment during the day, and
numbers of Chinamen came to the Show."
" Did you meet with opposition from any class ?"
A smile lit up Miss D'Arc's face as she described this
incident which I can only feebly convey by words.
" The Missionaries in China were displeased with our
performing on Sunday and tried to get us expelled. Tlie
reason they advanced being the difficulty of removing the
Chinese from the European quarter after the play. Jusfc
imagine the poor Marionettes being charged with sedition
and a \ireach of the peace !"
Miss Marie's vivacious laughter over this incident was
quite infectious.
UARCS MARIONETTES. 185
" How did you like the Japs ?" I enquired.
" They are a very pleasant people, and their country
is simply lovely. We played there, as long as we could, to
full houses, and left owing to the war. The Emjjeror
issued a request that his people should not spend their
money on Shows, but save in case it should be wanted for
the war. After that we could do nothing."
" i suppose you left then ?"
" No. The Japanese officers asked us to exhibit free of
•charge while they were embarking for the seat of war. We
did so and had as many as 400 guests." I venture to
doubt this last statement. Miss Marie never gave anything
free. 1 am however a polite man and would not contradict
a lady for all the hair on my head, even though tlie latter
is growing scant ; my head liaving lately contracted the
strange habit of growing through my hair.
" What kind of pieces please them ?" 1 asked.
" Oh, they are easily amused. We got up a little jiiece
for their benefit. A scene where a Japanese soldier and a
Chinaman appear on the stage and fight. The soldiers in
the audience got quite excited during the contest, and would
call out to their little comrade on the stage, loudly advising
liim what to do when they thought the Chinaman Avas
getting the better of it. Of course we made the Japanese
soldier win, and the shouts and cheers, when a dog came
and diligged away the dead Chinaman, were something to
be remembered. We played the same thing in llongivong
for the benefit of Chinamen, of course, reversing the order
and making the Chinaman ycin, but it did not awaken anv
186 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
eutliusiasm among tlie Chinese. They are very different
from the mercurial Japs. But the Chinese are truer to
their obligations and more to be trusted than some of their
victorious neighbours, I may add that my sister EtLel
charmed the Japs by singing their National Anthem in
their own language."
" How have you done in India ?" I asked. " You
know tliat nothing short of a crowbar can lift the majority
of Anglo-Indians out of a somnolent attitude after dinner.
The people who go to Shows and Theatres are only a small
minority of the inhabitants."
" V>e were very successful in Bombay and Hyderabad.
Sir Asman Jah engaged us to give a performance at the
Bushir Bagh Tlieatre before his Zenana."
Tlie work of interviewing is frequently not unlike
drawing an infirm cork from a bottle. Sometimes it
resembles the process of extracting a refractory molar, but
these general remarks cannot apply to Miss Marie D'Arc,
who is certainly one of the most business-like and com-
municative person I have ever had the privilege of
interviewing. One incident further is worth relating.
At the close of the Calcutta season a magnificent
toui'nament was opened on the Maidan close to Marionette
Theatre. The autliorities, with great lack of fine feeling
sought to convert the Doll's tent into a dressing-room and
latrine for tlie cavalry. The insult was too much for poor
Marie^ like Rachael of old, slie lifted up her voice, wept
and refused to be comforted. Rumour says she went down
0^1 her knees and cursed Col. Chatterton and the Lieut-
D'ARCS MARIONETTES. 187
Governor. This however I deny ; "Sweet Marie" is far too
sensible to make such a blunder, there is absolutely no
truth in the statement. Calcutta, however, Avill talk, and
no one witli any sense will try to make the city of
Palaces inarticulate. After this Marie sold the theatre
to a Chinaman at a pmHt, aiid left aliruptly.
CHAPTER XXV.
INTERVIEW WITH MISS LUCIA HARWOOD.
After several months of blazing Leafc which enervates
the body and lowers the mental atmosphere, Calcutta hails
with tepid acclamation the cold season, which just supplies
the requisite mental and physical tonic. Players from the
Westmust not be surprised at tlie apathetic reception given
to even the most vivacious and soul-stitring creation which
moves the hearts of those in the temperate zone. The
problems of life which touch the finest and most recondite
springs of tlie western play-goer, fail to excite the jaded
nerves of the Anglo-Indian, whose mind has been churned
into froth over the falling rupee, sanitary reform, and
Municipal misdoings. Body and nerves have undergone
a species of evaporation detrimental to all enthusiasm.
Calcutta, liowever, can coldly appreciate good acting, while
it shrinks from any demonstration of its feelings.' The shy,
reticent faculties of the English are as strong in Calcutta
as in Kensinorton.
MISS LUCIA IIARWOOD. 189
Saturday's exhibition at the Corinthian has shown that
the new Company both deserve and are entitled to a friendly
reception. Its most noticeable feature is its refinement,
good elocution, and absence of vulgarity, A manager once
remarked to me : "It is easy to procure a good play, hand-
some women and fine dresses, but to get people to speak
pure English is not easy." The present Company labours
lender no such disadvantage. Those who visit the Corin-
thian this season will find both ladies and gentlemen, from
whom the " golden youth" of Calcutta can learn at least
good manners and refinement. A general criticism is not
my object, I wish ratlier to supply a brief study of the
talented lady who has already given us an admirable repre-
sentation of "The Notorious Mrs. Ebbsmith," a play whicli
created a sensation when produced in London. Mr.
Pinero, the brilliant dramatist, is said to have scored his
highest in this piece. The play has undoubtedly some fine
situations ; the language is full of mental champagne, and
the satire is in good taste. It deals with the vexed problem
of marriage, a topic which is getting a trifle stale. We are
having too much of it ; one may love oysters, but no one
cares to eat them by the barrel.
Mrs. Ebbsmith is simply an exaggerated representation
of the socialistic tendency of our day. The Duke of
St. Olpherts represents a section of the pohshed but
depraved aristocracy. Religion is exhibited in the muscular
or Broa'd church type. The marriage question Ijas been
simply done to death by lady writers : a few useful, and
several pernicious opinions have been let loose. Mr.
190 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
Pinero simply plays round the subject, indicating the evil,
but offering no solution. No one, not even Tolstoi, has
shown us a path out of this human jungle. Fine language
and delicate irony, however, does not make a play ; its
defects are apparent. A bald-headed, pink-nosed gentle-
man, with an eye-glass and a ribbon that looked like a
decoration, sitting in one of the stalls before me, remarked :
" The old duke is the best thing in the show." The
observation is not deficient in truth, and, like the proverbial
straw, showed how the wind of public opinion drifts in the
City of Palaces.
The play has one striking situation wliicli arrests
attention. It would appear that Mrs. Ebbsmith during the
stress and storm of life derived no comfort from the Sacred
Book. Receiving it as a gift from a parting friend, a
mute reminder of a sacred obligation, rather than a peace
offering, the Bible was left behind much as a sheriff's officer
is put in possession of a house, as a security and evidence
of the Law. The wounded lieart of tlie outraged woman
found utterance in an impassioned soul-stirring denunci-
ation, winding up by flinging the Book in the fire. A
moment after, she stultified herself by rescuing the volume
from destruction with a piercing shriek of liorror. The
situation was highly dramatic, but absolutely false to life.
For, once the shackles of convention are broken the victim
never returns to the mental fetich. Enlightenment may
halt on its journey, it never goes back to ignorant-e. The
young maiden is a closed book, her possibilities unknown ;
marriage breaks tlie seal ; the promise of youth may be
MISS LUCIA IIARWOOD. 191
fulfilled but the matron never becomes a maid, her feet
never go back over tlie brook she l)as passed.
The presentation of tlie wronged woman was a fine
piece of acting which did Miss Harwood credit, revealing
the undoubted capacities of the actress. Indeed, tlirough-
■oufc the piece, her fine presence, stately action, and careful
attention to minute details favourably impressed the
audience. Her emotions were kept well under control — •
perhaps too well. One expected an explosion somewhere,
and we Avere proportionably disappointed when it did not
<?ome. Twice only did she abandon herself to those
passionate yearnings surging in her bosom.
The advantage of a private interview enables me to give
the public some additional items connected with this
talented artiste. Sitting on a low chair and surrounded
with a mass of floating drapery. Miss Harwood graciously
submitted to a catechism on her profession,
" I want you to tell me something about yourself," I
inquired ; " when you came out, and how you received your
education ?"
" Well, strictly speaking, I never came out," answered
Miss Harwood, while her dark eyes and mobile countenance
suddenly lit up like one of the electric lamps in the Eden
Gardens which, no matter how pt'epared for the illumination,
is always a pleasant surprise. " It seems to me I have
been alwtiys before the public. You must know 1 am the
daughter of an actor. I hardly remember ever being off the
stage, so I don't know when I came on. At ten I was
192 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
princess Elizabeth in the play of " Charles I.," and took
children's parts till I became a woman."
" With what Theatre have you been most associated ?"
I enquired.
" The Lyceum. T have received the best training
under Sir Henry Irving. I also travelled with them, and
played for over four years in Australia."
" Well, you have got over all your nervousness," I
remarked stupidly.
"E'ot at all, I'm nervous of you now," she replied,
with a mirthful look in her brown eyes which threw
considerable doubt on the asseveration.
" Now be fair," I implored, " and tell me honestly what
chance has a middle-aged, decidedly ugly, old bachelor
confronting a princess of laughter ; tears and surely the
nervousness must be all on his side ?"
Miss Harwood flatly declined to entertain my proposition.
"Suppose we wave the subject," I persisted, "and you
tell me who taught you elocution ?"
" Everything, down to dancing and fencing, I learned
from my 'dear old Dad.' We used to practise for hours
with the foils together." An expression like a gleam of
evening sunshine over a lovely landscape came into her
countenance : it spoke of home, love and gentleness. The
word Father has the altar-fire in it, rousing the best
thoughts. It convinced me that a warm heart beat some-
where under the multiple folds of drapery, which imperious
Fashion votes to be the right thing for the modern woman.
I am an old Pagan, on the side of the Greeks, who regard
j\tISS LUCIA HARWOOD. K)3
the human figure as divine, deeming it a sin to conceal the
outlines of the body. An eel-skin costume to the waist
followed by floating drapery to the feet would be my
positive recommendation even in the face of the infallible
Worth.
" How do you study your parts ? I mean how do you
get a glimpse of the character you wish to personate ?"
" Surely there is only one way."
" There are fifty," I answered, perceiving her evasion.
" I am afraid you're not serious."
" Well, I'm trying to be, if you will only let me," she
added gravely while her eyes told a different story. " As a
rule my first impression of a character is always the best.
If 1 don't like it at first, I rarely take to it. Having made
the selection I learn the words, and, while playing the part,
I merge my whole individuality into it, so much so that I
never perceive the face of one of the audience."
" Have you any particular line — any class of character
you prefer to personate ?"
" No."
" Do you mean to say that your taste for the grave and
gay is the same without any preference to one more than
the other ?"
" That's precisely what I wish to convey. I feel as
much at home in tragedy as in comedy."
" I never would suppose it," I answered bluntly, "T
should imagine your love of fun and desire to bewitch f)eople
would incline you more to comedy than serious parts. You
are a puzzle to me."
194 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
" I am a puzzle to myself occasionally" slie answered.
*' Now would you like my candid opinion of you writers ?"
she asked with a look of mischief,
" Certainly not," I answered. " I am not so hungry
for self-improvement as to invite an opinion on myself."
" Then you have the advantage of us women," she said
gravely.
" How so ?" I inquired.
" You have no curiosity." She paused while I waited
for her to speak. Presently she looked up : " Very well.
If you won't listen to my opinion on writers in general, and
somehody in particular, I will ask you to come and see me
in ' Mrs. Ebbsmith.' You will then know whether I can
fill a serious part."
" That I shall do," I answered. "May I ask what
authors interest you, or do you care for reading ?"
" Oh I what a question ! I simply adore reading.
When I was a little girl I used to save all my pocket money
to buy Scott's novels. I have read them all over several
times. I vibrate between Dickens and Scott."
" I should not have thought that Scott furnished any
of your mental scenery ?"
" Really, so you have had some idea of me before. I
should so much like to know what it was ?"
"lean get a picture, without going to the photo-
graphers, of any one I want to see, by an act of concen-
tration. To explain the process would, however, be difficult.
It must now take myself off, thanking you for the very
MISS LUCIA HARWOOD. 195
agreeable time spent in your society. I will tell the people
of Calcutta about you."
And so I parted with the " Princess Lucia," a gifted
creature, full of. Heaven knows what, dreams and fancies of
the golden Orient. An hour with such a bundle of mental
fireworks would make one long for the society of a healthy
fool.
CHAPTER XXVI.
AN INTERVIEW WITH MR. MAPLES.
Accohdino to an old legend King Tarcacious had five
handsome daughters, all eager to be married. The king
promised to provide tliem with husbands on one condition —
that they were to complete the working of a piece of
tapestry on a certain date. The girls set to work with
alacrity ; their father, however, contrived that a servant at
night should undo the work of each day. Under these
circumstances matrimony become a remote contingency.
The king wished to inculcate patience, and also convince his
daughters that learning and unlearning was the lesson of life.
Sooner or later we have all to acknowledge the wisdom of
this cruel mandate, and that even the best of intentions will
not guard us against indiscreet zeal.
Tlie working of the Tramway Company in our town has
caused much dissatisfaction and constant complaint. With
thevifwof getting at the root of the difficulty afi interview
with tlie superintendent was solicited, and the request was
courteously granted.
MR. MAPLES. 197
" Tlie working of your trams has not given satisfaction,
Mr. Maples," I reuiarked while seated before tliat gentle-
man in his office.
" The public would be glad to hear what you have to
say on the matter."
Mr. jMaples is a squarely built man with strength written
on every line of his hard face and figure ; his moustache is
iron-gray ; a huge pair of circumtlex eye-brows shadow
deep-set eyes. The whole cast of his countenance reminds
me of Prince Bismarck. He speaks with slowness and
deliberation, and I became magnetically conscious of a man
of unusual strength before lie opened his lips.
" We are always glad to receive the comments of the
public, no matter how adverse the criticism," remarked Mr.
Maples in a cold, deliberate voice, vphile the accent in which
it was uttered betrayed deep sensitiveness ; "nor do we shirk
criticism, but on tlie contrary invite it, for we are always
willing to take advice vrhen we find it of value. But what
we do object to" — here he paused, and he glanced keenly at
me, as if he intended to penetrate my inner consciousness —
" what we do object to," lie repeated, " is unreasonable
abuse and slashing comments from those who do not con-
sider our difficulties, and take no pains to ascertain the
obstructions, climatic and otherwise, which impede our work.
We have received a great deal of unmerited abuse, and the
greatest offender among our critics is Dr. Bowles Daly
himself^ wfio has not only found fault, but used his pen to
stigmatise and ridicule us, who likened our cars to street
ambulances and stamped tliem as a disgrace to civilisatio^J.
198 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
I can give his very words, for I have preserved them" —
whereupon he got up and left the room, returning with two
bulky volumes of press cuttings. It may be flattering to
an author to know that his casual words are treasured by
somebody, but my own feeling is one of positive detestation
of everything I have written. The art of glueing words
together so that they may be felt, causes infinite trouble. I
requested Mr. Maples to spare me the recital of my own
words. In justice to his aggrieved feelings, I had to listen
to a severe lecture on my shortcomings. It was quite
useless to explain that tlie editor of a newspaper, with a
hundred demands on his time, cannot judicially examine the
merits of all the cases brought before his notice.
Mr. Maples had his say, but eventually relaxed and
showed me that he was both a just and reasonable man.
" You can't deny, Mr. Maples, that the spectacle of
sixteen carriages in a line delayed for half-an-hour, as is
often Been on the Bow Bazar Road, indicates a condition
of rottenness in the Kingdom of Denmark. ITow, in a
word, tell me how do you account for it ?"
Having cornered me in his own office, I was determined
to let off a few spare guns. I was not going to submit
without a kick or a struggle.
Mr. Maples eyed me with murder in his glance, but his
words were pacific.
"*We have one thousand and fifty horses enjployed.
In the cold weather there are from 5 to 20 in the infirmary.
^Tust now the number has gone up from 100 to 120. The
MR. MAPLES. 199
horses are done up often after one journe3\ The people are
most unreasonable."
" Do you ever contemplate the idea of substituting
electricity for horse-power ?" I inquired,
" Yes. AVe have a proposal before the Government at
present. India ouglit to be the first country to adopt any
change from horse-power ; the climate is so trying." •
" Is there any likelihood of the proposal being accepted ?"
" We hope for the best. But any change which involves
expenditure is slower in this country than any I know."
" Don't you think more places of shelter for the horses
while wailing to be yoked would be an improvement — the
Esplanade corner, for instance."
" Yes, more covered places are wanted. But how are
we to get them ? You have no idea what a long time we
were asking before we got that place near the High Court.
And were it not for the interest Judge Norris took in the
matter, we would have failed altogether."
" Well, I am glad to see that you are alive to this
want," I answered.
" Yes, we perceive what is wanting, as well as editors of
papers ; but we have to make the best of the circumstances,"
he answered with a sly kick at the press.
" Your cars are not objects of beauty," 1 interjected
carelessly, by way of return, "and the poor scare-crows
who drive and take the tickets, seem to be clad in the cast-
of? clotlfts of the military infirmary." ,
" We are adding ten to fifteen new cars every year ;
we can't afford to change the whole rolling stock to satisfy
200 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
aesthetic requirements. As for the clothes of ticket-collectors
and drivers, they are certainly not attractive. If we were a
dividend-paying company I should have them in uniform,
but we are not in a condition to admit of the extra
expenditure."
"What dividend does the company pay ?"
" Hardly two per cent."
" There is another point I wish to mention. By way of
improven)ent, miglit not the front seats be cushioned and
reserved for the respectable class ?"
" This was tried, but signally failed ; the baboos
crowded in and refused tlie extra charge, so it was dis-
continued."
" Could tliere not be a little more done in the way of
transfer tickets ?" 1 asked. " It seems to me that this
accommodation might be greatly extended."
" Well, we tried it, but the amount of dishonesty which
it provoked, checked our hands."
" Did the dishonesty proceed from your own people or
the public ? I notice that tlie number of inspectors seems
excessive."
" No, our staff are fairly honest, but the public try to
swindle us by qxqvj trick in their power,"
" There is just one other point on which I should like
to get information. Why is it you use metal instead of
leather collars on your horses ? I have not noticed this in
any country but India." "
" Metal is the best. It has only recently been employed.
It is lighter and less liable to cause abrasions of the
MR. MAPLES. 201
skin, and it does not get out of shape like leatlier collars.
We adopt the metal collar because, though \i costs more, it
lasts longer."
Feeling that my catechism was becoming tiresome, I
wished Mr. Maples to give me a general idea of the whole
business. " Well, it is not easy," he answered, " to sum-
marise the details of a large concern, but this is how we
stand. The company was floated in England with a capital
of £400,000, and the shareliolder,-: are chiefly English.
We pay Rs. 35,000 a year, to (he Municipality for track
rent, and the repairs of the road cost about Es. 70,000
more. The J'^nglish Tramway Companies never pay any
rent, except wliere the manicipality constructs its own lines.
The Calcutta Municipality charge the Tramway Company a
rent on a sliding scale, increasing in amount every four
years. In 1803 we had a hard fight Avitli the Municipality.
We wanted them to abolish the track rent, which then
amounted to half a lakh per annum. They conceded fifteen
thousand rupees a year for five years, on the condition that
we were not to pay more than 3^ per cent dividend. If this
concession was not made us, we would have given up the
concern. Our expenses are very heavy. The rails used
first were cheap and had to be abandoned ; those used now
are costly and more durable. We employ a great many
hands. The cost of maintaining the lines in Calcutta is
more than three times the cost in Bombay. The rent
proposed i5y the Madras Municipality is only Rs. 2U0 per
annum, and the company is exempted from taxes on their
buildings and other properties ; even the Rangoon Muni-
202 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
cipality has shown decided generosity to their company in
the matter of track rent. The original agreement between
the Corporation and the Tramways Company was based on
tlie assumption that the traffic would yield an income of
£102,500 sterling, bat it never reached that figure. Our
receipts in 1881 were £20,251 ; in five years they rose to
£18,788 ; and in 1892 they grew to £70,258. It is very
doubtful whether they will ever reach the sum contemplated.
Our expenditure has lately exceeded £64,000. I think,
however, with all our drawbacks we have done well. In
1881 we carried 3,267,559 passengers, and in 1892 the
number was 12,623,387. About a million passengers a
month is our present figure. There, I think, I have given
you a tolerably accurate sketch of our position. I shall be
happy to supply you with the exact figures any time you
want them on your giving me a little notice. So, you see,
we don't shirk criticism. We are doing our best, but for
our unavoidable shortcomings, we claim some consideration."
After thanking Mr. Maples for the privilege of the
interview, I withdrew. The information elicited, will enable
the public to judge whether 1 have been too severe in my
strictures, while commenting on the inconvenience to whicli
a large section of the public have been subjected. I believe
Mr. Maples to be a humane man and an upright public
servant, desirous of doing his duty fairly to the people, but
beset by difficulties which rightly entitles him to the
consi/leration he claims. We are all compelled to learn the
lesson King Tarcacious tried to instill, and it is worth
learning, for it helps to smooth the path of life.
CHAPTER XXVII.
AN INTERVIEW WITH THE PRINCIPAL,
SEEBPOOR COLLEGE.
Lord Wolsley entertains a Iiigh opinion of the Chinese-
people, wliich even theii' recent defeat has not altered.
" That's just what they wanted, to rouse them from their
apathy," he remarked. Whatever value may be attached to
tliis opinion, — and the words of so eminent a soldier certain-
ly deserves respect — it will be readily admitted that the
Chinese are a frugal, thrifty race. The absence of the above
qualities are the main cause of much of the poverty of the
English workmen. John Bull foolishly believes that the way
to happiness lies through the kitchen, and the stomach is the
pope to which every knee must bow. A German is capable
of living on the smell of a greased rag, while a Chinaman
can subsist on a handful of roots, and regards " cold puppy"
as fair aldermanic. Without any exaggeration the yellow
man can live where the white would starve.
204 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
POSSIBILITIES.
If the Chinaman bursts his barriers and gets over the
religious scruple of annually worshipping the bones of his
grandfather, a yellow wave is certain to spread over India,
Australia and perhaps farther west. His presence at any
rate will have to be reckoned with, in one way or another,
before many years are over. At present small groups
from the flowery land have penetrated into English and
American territory, and these look as if they came to stay.
In Calcutta the Chinaman has adopted the shoe and
■carpentry trade, driving out the Eurasian who is powerless
to compete with liim. John not only works well but so
cheaply, that we cannot now dispense with his services ; for
he has made himself a necessary factor in our social life,
fastening like a limpid on the whole length of Bentinck
Street, which the Municipality has considerately reduced to
the condition of a back street in Canton solely for his
benefit ; unsavoury smells and rotten vegetation are to him
insignificant trifles. The Chinaman's naked body, abundant
pig tail and roomy "contintiations" are to be seen all day
long, hovering about the scene of his labour ; while deep
into the niglit, under the light of a faint lamp, he bends
with the devotion of a saint over his sewing-machine, which,
thanks to modern civilisation, has become one of his tutelary
gods. This, however, is only the visible Chinaman ; the
invisibU brothers whose name are Legion, live down the
lane. Tliey work in relaj's, twenty in a small room, and of
these rooms there are an indefinite number. One Chinaman
PRINCIPAL, SE EBP OOP COLLEGE. 205
so closely follows his brother in dress and facial expression,
that they are as like . as one rotten q^^ is to another.
!N"o one but God and Sir John Lambert can number the
species who are now "pigging" an existence in the classic
neighbourhood of Chandney Choke, a part of Calcutta
which resembles an old English Stilton fashionably "high,"
where the human microbe festers and wriggles, until the*
whole cheese seems a moveable mass.
THE DOa IN THE MANGER POLICY.
When England forced China, at the point of the
bayonet, to open her ports to the British trader, a remnant
of conscience suggested "Treaty Obligations" between the
two countries. These gave the Chinamen a right of access
to all the British possessions. It is surely a short-sighted
policy of our sturdy Australian Colonists to seek to
exclude Chinese labour in the face of these commercial
compacts, ef3pecially when half the country is in the tropics,
where white men cannot be employed to cultivate the soil.
There is even another consideration which should not be
omitted. By leaving part of the land uncultivated, sooner
than admit another race, the colonists are simply cancelling
a large portion of the assets on the security of which they
have borrowed so much British capital. Here is, however,
the point I wish to come to, and one of exceeding impor-
tance. As long as we neglect to give our people a sound
technical 'and industrial education, we are paviny Uie way
for the Mongolian tribes, — the Goths and Huns of the
East — and a Yellow invasion, if not conquest, is sure to
206 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
follow. Japan has given us an object lesson which it would
be unwise to disregard.
The above considerations have prompted me to visit the
chief Engineering College ia Bengal, to see what steps
have been taken to meet the difficulty. A polite invita-
tion from Mr. Slater, the Principal, afforded me the
'desired information to which I invite public attention.
THE ROAD TO 8EEBP00R COLLEGE.
The drive across the Maidan in the early morning
exhibited this beautiful park at its best. A lierd of cattle
cropped the green herbage that a few weeks ago looked like
brown paper ; the taper masts in the river etched sharp
lines on a background of luminous blue. The Bed Eoad
was deserted. A few horsemen, enjoying their morning
ride, cantered over the vivid green sward ; the Fort barracks
lifted its high windows to look over the guns and get a
breath of the morning air ; the High Court like the Doge's
Palace in Venice stood calm and solid, the majesty of the
Law giving it an air of dignified repose ; the dome of the
Post Office suggested otlier scenes ; Dufferin, in his grand
uniform posed witli cynical smile, looking down the Red
Road. His lordship appeared rather mouldy in the rains ;
an insolent crow was perched on his head, whose loud
cawing detracted from the dignity of the great diplomat.
Merging into Dalhousie Square and out on the Howrah
bridge,, seemed a plunge from the sublime to the vulgar
commonplace, a rapid descent from the patrician region of
the official to flat Municipal slovenliness.
PRINCIPAL, SEEBPOOR COLLEGE. 207
There is a frankness about a back door which is not to
be found at a front entrance. Howrah is the back door of
Calcutta where great ware-houses are situated, marked with
solitary letters of the alphabet, indicating solid sordid
wealth ; here are work-sheds, monster steam rafts, lumbering
trucks and sharp railway lines, shooting in all directions and
focusing the traffic of the city. The sun in all his glory
can throw no gleam of splendour on unlovely Howrah, for
no eyes but those of the money-grubber can look down on
the Talkal Ghat highway with anything but sentiments of
■dissatisfaction.
This road is full of slush, mud and holes, a traction
engine never boomed tliat way ; ragged plantains and
feathery bamboos bend down in whispering murmurs over
tanks green with age and redolent with offensive odour.
Here women drapped in dingy red with brown tatooed arms
glistening with silver and shellac ornaments come to drink,
bathe and gossip while they wasli their clothes. A miscel-
laneous collection fills the bazaars ; dishes of unwliolesome
sweet-meats studded with blue flies, innumerable curry stuffs
red, pale-yellow and snuff coloured, like the ashes of a
corpse ; dripping balls of native tobacco with coarse
cocoanut hookhas, piles of brown unglazed crockery, and
Manchester cottons. Stacks of firewood filled up tlie chinks
that divided ramshakle dwellings consisting of mud and
wattles, while a few liouses are built of brick without mortar
of an unhealthy hue as if they caught the measles froift each
other. Cakes of cow droppings were carefully dried in tlie
sun under the superintendence of little naked boys ; an inlgy
208 R\WrAN SKETCHES AXD RAMBLES.
drain of liquid mud stood before the houses, near wliich a
large porker indolently reclined with audible sighs of satis-
faction. !N"ear her was seated a naked Baboo with a bosom
like a fat woman, while a swarm of brown children sat beside-
him on the same low platform. I passed by two men
stretched on tlieir backs in a chnrpoi/ chanting the Koran,
while the inevitable tom-tom sounded from an inner room.
The liuman, animal and vegetable products were rank and
tropical in their growth, and all looked unsavoury to
contemplate.
THE COLLEGE
consists of two or tliree blocks of buildings with several
sheds and out-offioes covering an area of seventy acres. It
was built by Bishop ]Middleton in tlie early part of the
century '"for the honour of God in India " and intended
for missionary work. The good Bishop Heber who came
out in 1823 took an interest in the College and sought to
make it a central educational force with the district
committee in Madras, Bombay and Colombo. For thirty
years it engaged in fitful educational work ; it failed through
want of unity, the agents of the two religious societies
could not agree. The buildings then fell into the hands of
the P. W. T>. " As a college I can hardly say it is
complete yet," remarked Mr. Slater as he led me through
the workshops.
"We are, however, progressing slowly. It was djflficult
to get anything out of Sir Charles Elliott, who hardly
understood the advantage of such an institution. Before
PRINCIPAL, SEEBPOOR COLLEGE. 209
he left, however the Government made us a grant wliioli
Las set us going."
" To make it a working institution a good deal of
money is necessary," I added.
"Yes, there is where the shoe pinches. The apparatus
and instruments are costly and the initial expenses, however
economically we go to work, must be heavy. There are
a great many things I want, but I must wait until the
Government approves. The restriction on the purchase of
European articles gives me the greatest trouble. It often
takes three to six months before this takes place, conse-
quently all my bills and payments are delayed."
Mr. Slater took me over the workshops where carpen-
ters, smiths, iron and brass founders were at work, and
explained and pointed out many minute points of interest
in the respective machines.
" We do all our own house work, mend our own instru-
ments, and construct machines as far as our capacities
admit. Every thing required about the buildings is done
by the students. There is an instructor for each depart-
ment. Of course if I got skilled men in, I could get
througli all this more rapidly," he said, pointing to a
laboratory table, fitted with taps, gas pipes, tanks and the
complicated arrangements necessary for chemical experi-
ments, " this however would not be so profitable to the
students."* •
" What do you do with the machine you build ?"
I asked, seeing several steel lathes in the shed. ,
XIV
210 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
" \Ye sell tliein at a reduced rate to the technical schools
affiliated to the college. In fact, when we get an order we
can furnish a technical shop complete, for nearly a third of
what it would cost if the articles were ordered from
England."
" How far are you moving with the times, Mr. Slater,
I mean with regard to modern science?"
" Well, pretty closely" he remarked, "we have got an
Electric plant, and in a short time we hope to have the
Avhole college lit with electric light. We also teach
photography. I will show you a specimen of our micros-
copic slides which we mount ourselves, when we go into
the model room."
" Do you make your own gas ?" I asked.
" INo, we hope to do so soon. As I remarked before,
we are not at all complete yet, we do some of our own
foundary work. We want however a good steam hammer.
We haA'e no apparatus to lift heavy articles.
" Here is something I want to show you" and he
pointed to the frame work of a small yacht. This was a
very creditable piece of work.
" We hope to be able to fit it up complete."
" You seem to be more or less in a transition state,"
1 remarked.
" Yes, the Board of works had first possession of
the place. The teaching then was unsatisfactory and
desu1!tory. Now we are getting into better form."
I inspected two or three of these classes. The geo-
enetrical drawinsrs were fair and the colouring careful.
PRINCIPAL, SEEBPOOR COLLEGE. 211
I did not see any free-hand drawing. On a long table was
extended a plan of a railway line with all the bridges and
roads marked off. As we entered the room, I was amused
to see one student perched like a bird on the drawing table,
while his body was bent down over his toes, filling in the
sketch, a pocket handkerchief under his feet protected tlie
paper from being soiled. Mr. Slater evidently disapproved •
of this acrobatic method of drawing, a wave of his hand
induced the birdlike craftsman to abandon his position.
He leapt d lightly to the ground. I doubt if a European
student could achieve this even if he tried.
" Do the students receive any physical education ?"
I inquired.
" Yes, I make athletics compulsory on every student
Avho joins. Our recreation and reading rooms are satis-
factory. We get all the scientific books and reviews, with
a small amount of fiction and books of travel."
I was very much pleased with the model roou), which
though small was well furnished. There is an excellent
model of a Colliery, shewing every part of the work,
the cradle, shaft, pumps, and furnaces. It would not take
a smart boy three days to understand the whole working
from this excellent model. There were also some fine
specimens of Indian wood in a glass case arranged like
volumes in a library shewing the colour, grain, and hardness
of each specimen. An assortment of the various woods in
India an'd Burmah would form a valuable additi(ju to a
student's knowledge.
" How many young men are in the College ?'" I inquired.
212 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
*' About three hundred. You will find all our rules in.
a paniplilet which I shall give you. We admit about forty-
even' year, and we send out a similar number."
'• What prospect has a lad leaving here ?*'
" Very fair, he may earn from Rs. 200 a month, and
run up to Rs. 1500, if he comes in at the right time and
' is properly equipped ; he must remain with us from two to
three years."
" And what is the whole cost of the education yearly
including extras ?"
"About Rs. 300. A sum which would not cover the
third of his education in Europe."
"Tell me, Mr. Slater, what you think of the Government
B. A. the silk purse made out of the bristly material
Sir Alfred Croft is so fond of ?"
" The B. A. who graduates in honours is not bad of his
kind, but the ordinary B. A. is a very poor product of
education, worthless to himself and useless to the country.
Formerly his value was about Rs. 50 a mouth, now he is
dear at Rs. 25. In fact he is a drug in the market."
" Where does his education break down ?" I asked.
"Well, in the first place his English is deficient, he
understands nothing, and next the only faculty exercised
is memory. Three months after the examination a brash
might sweep his mind clean off all the knowledge he
crammed."
" Is»there nothing left ? " I asked desirous of getting
the opinion of so eminent an authority as the Principal of
the Engineering College."
PRINCIPAL, SERB POOR COLLEGE. 213
" Yes, a colossal conceit which spoils all his chances in
life, except those of a matrimonial character. The degree
has an appreciable value in the purchase of a husband."
I asked Mr. Slater if he had any proposal to enlarge and
extend the scope of the College. His answer was significant.
" No : the poverty of industrial enterprise does not
justify enlarging our training establishment. I doubt if
the country could absorb more than three hundred students
in this work."
Just imagine Bengal with its seventy millions, a country
as large as the whole German Empire, unable to find
employment for more than 300 technical and industrial
students. It was only in 1889 that England took the
first step by passing the Technical Education Act. In
1890 she set aside £750,000 for scientific and technical
education, what was known as the Gosclieu fund. Out of
the £750,000, £600,000 was being devoted to technical
education. Private donations were even more Hberal still.
The result is that technical schools in England have multi-
plied by leaps and bounds. The Polytechnic alone educates
students in every craft to the amount of 30,000 every year.
Then contrast the life of those classes, the energy displayed.
Thinking of these and the German and Swiss Schools, one
cannot help feeling sad for the 300 millions of Indians,
forty millions out of the number not knowing where to get
a scanty breakfast.
I comn^end to the earnest attention of Sir Aley«ander
■»
Mackenzie, the Seebpore College. The chemical laboratory
is absurdly deficient, not room for two dogs to dance in it.
214 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
The whole institution is starved, dwarfed, and absohitely
inadequate to the wants of so vast and populous a province.
Every branch of sound education is neglected by the
Government, while money is poured out like water on
Departmental Jobbery and military schemes. To crown
the evil, there is no breeze of healthy public opinion to
expose rascality and bring in reform.
A jetty would be an advantage both to the Botanical
Gardens as well as the College. The Howrah route is
described with the view of suggesting a better moans of
reaching those useful institutions. Tlianking Mr. Slater
for his courtesy, I returned thinking sadly of tlie miserable
educational efforts made by the Director of Public Instriic
tion to meet the wants of the times, and satisfy the
requirements of this huge pauper warren. A tenth rate
town in Germany would be ashamed to own so deficient an
Institution as the Seebpore College, and no country boast-
ing of any intelligence, would elect as its Director a man
of such slender capacity and small organising power. Yet
when he retires, his clique will flood him with testimonials
and try to give him a statue in the Maidan.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
OUTWITTING THE SAHEB.
Nobody klle^y Low Appn Hami became MucIIiyar ; wlieu
lie got the office lie possessed notliing that he could call Lis
own but Lis skin. In a few years Le became so disgustinsi'ly
rich tliat everyone in Matara envied him. The Mudliyar
sucked up money as though his fingers Avere fashioned
like the tentacles of an octopus, while the prosperity of
the people under Lis jurisdiction sensibly decreased. He
attended auctions and sales of property ; as Lead man of
tLe district he had his share in every robbery that was
committed, in fact wherever a penny was to be turned, tlie
Mudliyar turned it into his pocket.
As the number of his years increased, the front of his
waist-coat assumed more and more the appearance of a
jierfect arch. In stature he was short and stunted : (here
was very little of him, but all that was there, was vicious.
He had a weaselv face with ferrety eves which winked like
» "■ - -
sickly stars under bushy eyebrows. His hair was refcellious,
more like a wire-fence than anything else ; his legs short
and fleshy, his voice shrill, Lis langL a dry cackle wliich
216 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
sounded like the rinsing out of a bottle. If you had any
doubt about the Darwinian theory as to the descent of man
from the lower animals, that doubt vanished when you
looked at the Mudliyar, for the dullest intellect became
magnetically conscious that a Chimpanzee or two must be
among his ancestors.
His accomplishments were few but striking. He could
praise, fawn, bully, cheat, and tell a lie with an artless
simplicity which would impose on a Chetty. He had a
great power of shaking hands, always impressing the owner
of the hand shaken, that he the shaker was by the process
covered with glory and steeped with delight. Yet, with all
this, he was not happy ; there are lees even in the cup of a
rich man.
The Mudliyar had two sons whose vicious habits caused
him infinite anxiety. They inherited mucli of the wicked-
ness of their parent, but the disease took quite a different
direction : the father saved, the sons squandered. They
failed to pass the clerical examination, but to do them
justice they were well up in several subjects not approved
of by the Director of Public Instruction, though practised
extensively by the nobility and gentry of Europe as well as
Ceylon, such as betting, billiards, pegging and horse-racing,
and added to the above an extensive and unqualified adora-
tion of the opposite sex.
These youths vexed the heart of their parent especially
in tlm transaction of a little money affair wl'iere^ they
anticipated his death. The Mudliyar reduced to beggary
many a family without a tjjought of their future. Now tlie
OUTWITTING THE SAHEB. 217
bitterness of poverty came home to him filling his cup ; as
the prospect of a happy old age became as remote and
uncertain as the proverbial bird in the bush, he determined
then and there to get rid of his hopeful sons before the
worst came.
Accident presented the Mudliyar \yith an opportunity
which he turned to good account. The Government Agent *
whom we shall call the Saheb, liappened to be staying at
the Rest-house while on circuit.
The Mudliyar called to pay his respects. Visitors are
not numerous in the southern Province. The great man
was becoming tired of his own companj^ so the welcome
was cordial.
" I missed you when I called at Cotta," said the Saheb,
stretching himself in his long chair and pointing to cigars
and whisky which lay inviting on the table.
" Very sorry, Sir," said the Mudliyar helping himself.
" Oh, never mind ; I'll be coming that way again, soon.
By the way, Mudliyar, I hear there is some big game in
your district. Is it worth bringing my guns down ?"
The Mudliyar paused and examined his cigar critically ;
an idea occurred to him. Presently he added, " There are
plenty elk, buffalo, deer, bear and elephants. I think I can
give you some good sport.'"
" I hear wild buffaloes are very fierce and there is great
fun in sliooting them. Now I'll let you know ^ week
before I arrive at the station." Knowing liis man the
Saheb added, " Now, what can I do for you ? "
218 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
" Sir, you are very kind," tlie Mudliyar added in a
humble tone, as he saw tlie ball come to bim in a bop. " I
have two sons, spirited lads ; I'd be glad if you would help-
me to get them employment."
" Well, we will see about it. Let me know when you
hear of anything to suit them."
A month after the Mudliyar received a letter : " I am
coming south and will be with you on Friday, Make
arrangements for the buffalo shooting."
On the receipt of this letter the Mudliyar was puzzled
for there were no wild buffaloes in the district. He had,
however, to keep his word.
He went down to the village, summoned a meeting, and
informed the people that the Rajuroo was coming to
shoot wild buffaloe.<?, and as there were none in the place, he
asked tliat they should allow their cattle to graze in the
open green and not tether them ; that when the Rajuroo
comes he may shoot some, and that he the Mudliyar would
pay double their value. If they would make this conces-
sion, he would speak to the Rajuroo and get some of their
taxes reduced. The people consented.
On the morning of the day the Saheb was expected, a
large paper of ground chillies and pepper was sent to the
owners of the cattle with instructions as to its use.
The Saheb duly arrived and was met by the Mudliyar
attended by a great crowd of tom-tom beaters and retainers.
Both slept well that night ; the Saheb dreaming of sport
and the Mudliyar of the success of his plans.
OUTWITTING THE SAIIEB. 219
Early next day the buffaloes Avere roaming about the
jungle, jumping, bellowing, and tearing up the soil with
their hoofs and horns. The pepper had done its work.
A follower trained to his part ran in, breathless with
the information that a ferocious herd was passing through
the opening. Up jumped the Saheb witli his gun in hand,
and in rushed the Mudliyar forgetting to put on his shoes in
the hurry. Away went both to the opening of the jungle.
As they approached the herd, the animals perceived
them, and infuriated from the burning sensation, rushed
forward. The Saheb prudently beat a retreat ; hitting his
foot against a root he stumbled and fell, but soon rose again.
The shouts and yells of the beaters kept the herd
confused. The Saheb approached cautiously hiding liimself
behind a tree. As one of the infuriated lierd rushed past,
he took a steady aim and fired. Down fell one of the
number, while a wild cheer from the beaters followed. The
heat made the perspiration run down the Saheb's face and
neck. He was, however, determined to have another shot.
After a short run he spotted a young bull calf who with
tail erect was leading tlie herd. The Saheb fired and the
animal fell on his knee ; the rest disappeared in the jungle.
An appetising meal awaited the Saheb after his
morning's sport supplied by the Mudliyar, who waited
obsequiously on his guest complimenting him on his skill.
The Saheb was pleased, and though he knew he was an
indifferent' shot, yet under the seductive praise cl the
Mudliyar, he purred like an old Tom Cat rubbed down the
back.
220 INDIAN SKETCHES AND RAMBLES.
" By the way, lludliyar, how is it those wild buffaloes
have no long horns. They look like the ordinary village
buffalo ? "
"That's all owing to the climate, Sir. Water is scarce
liere, so the horns don't grow."
The Mudliyar Avas equal to any emergency, and never
did he seem more simple than when uttering a falsehood.
" Well, Mudliyar, I am glad I had two good shots.
When 1 write home giving an account of this, they will be
surprised."
" The herd was so wild that 1 thought you would miss ■
them. It is not often we have such a good shot in these
parts. The villagers will be talking about it for the next
twelve months," exclaimed the Mudliyar.
"Thanks for your trouble, Mudliyar," was the delighted
reply.
" I hear there are some men wanted for the Forest
Department," put in the Mudliyar. " Just the thing to
suit my boys."
" Oh, by-the-bye, I forgot all about it. Send me their
names and I shall see what 1 can do."
A month afterwards the Mudliyar's two sons were
appointed Forest Guards at BaduUa. Character or ability
does not count for much in the East ; a man with a hand-
some wife or sister need not despair of rising to the
Inchest office. Sic itur ad astra.
WORKS BY J, BOWLES DALY, LL D.
Personal and Press Opinions.
"RADICAL PIONEERS of the IStli Century."
"Mr. Daly has designed his book to inforu those who liavc
little time for research about the leading figures on the Radical
side of politics in the end of the last Century. No doubt this
will be a very useful book." — Academy.
"The book is worth reading, and may open the eyes of a few
people to the necessity of the work done by such sufferers in the
cause of progress as Home Tooke." — The Spectator.
" Dr. Daly's 'Radical Pioneers of the 18th Century' may be
heartily recommended. The best thing perhaps in the book is
the simile for a Whig. 'Long possession of power had benumbed
the faculties of the Whigs, and paralyzed, their energies : they
now reposed in lusufiousuess and idleness, as useless as forgotten
shells on a battle field.' It is not every one who could have
devised the above simile. If the forgotten shell does not beat
the extinct volcano, we are no critics, and we would dare put the
question to the ghost of Lord Beaconsfield himself." — Saturdai/
Revieiv.
" It would be hard to conceive a volume of more compressed
information and deeper interest than 'Radical Pioneers of the
18th century.' A work which is an admirable picture of an
epoch more pregnant perhaps with political instruction than any
other in the world's history." — Daily Telegraph.
" A series of vigorous biographical sketches, which will be
useful to young men, and all who desire to study the progress of
the people." — Daily Chronicle.
" This Book, which is full of interest in every page, may be
cordially recommended. Dr. Daly has accomplished the work he
has undertaken, with admirable judgment." — Echo.
" The present volume gives a history at once accurate and
graphic of the men who, as Dr. Daly puts it, bravely carried in
their hands the torch of Liberty. The style is briglit, full of
life, coloui* and movement." — Manchester E.eaminer.
" if contains an account of certain events of great social and
political importance. Dr. Daly has produced a book as full of
instruction as it is interesting." — Newcastle Chronicle.
" The Author has put together a number of the well-known
facts regai-dino; Wilkes, Home Tooke, Dr. Price, Priestly, &c.,
giving as much prominence as possible to amusing anecdotes.
The result is readable enough, and may serve its purpose of
ministering to the wants of those whose time for reading is
limited." — Glasgow Herald.
" The book furnishes an instructive study of the character of
leading Radicals of the period, and also of the effect produced
on English politics by the American and French Revohitions."
— Scotsman.
"Dr. Daly borrows from other people with infinite grace, and
draws a lively picture of certain epochs."— rori-s/ii7-e Post.
" The narrative all through is singularly readable and interest-
ing. There is a good index of the principal contents.' — Birming-
ham Daily Pobt.
" The most vivid chapter in the book is on the ' Dawn of
Radicalism,' in which are embedded many facts which Reformers
of to-day ought not to lose sight of." — Bradford Observer.
" A very interesting historical and biographical story of the
iUien and measures of the latter half of the last century. The
volume is an interesting and instructive one, both for students of
history and of politics." — Liverpool Daily Post.
" Will well repay patient reading by all who take concern in
the forces at work in our own day to secure the further progress
of the popular cause. (The Author is evidently a man of sturdy
Liberal opinions, and he handles his subject with force and
vigour. ")-^Lloyd^s JVews.
" It is easy and pleasant reading, just because the Author has
spared no trouble in its composition. This book ought to become
the text-book of Liberalism." — Hampshire Telegraph.
" As readable and faithful a description of a most important
period in political history as could well be found." — Publisher's
Circular.
" The Author has succeeded in giving us a closer view of the
character of those men who carried in their hands the torch of
Liberty than could possibly be obtained from general history."
— Bookseller.
" L^t all Radical associations throughout the cofintry, place
this work within reach of their members, as a deeply int^.esting
and reliable text book. Many early Radical leaders are here
sketched with a masterly hand." — Literary World.
" The Author is a graphic and entertaining writer. It is a
pity we have not more of such sound political works." — Army Sf
Navy Magazine.
"A most valuable work as regards information and instruction,
but a most delightful book for the general reader. ' Radical
Pioneers' unites the strength of history with the charm of
romance." — Life.
" The whole arrangement of the work is first class, aiid the
book will be found a great help to those desirous of obtaining a ,
clear insight into the improved condition of the people."- — Pullic
Opinion.
" The most complete sketch of the political free-lances who
flourished in tlie reign of George III. Thomas Paine is almost for
the first time in English history, treated justly." — Englisli Opinion.
"The book is chatty and pleasant. The account of Wilkes
and Liberty is worth reading." — To-Day.
"The book is a good one, and deserves a place on the shelves
of all who take an interest in their country." — Inquirer,
" A complete but concise account of the popular movements
headed by Home Tooke, John Wilkes, and other Reformers, as
well as a brief outline of the manners and customs of the
period." — ^'ew Zealand Herald.
"BROKEN IDEALS."
"A love story, which shows that the faith of more than one
of the personages in the 'ideal' that passion has invested with
too glowing colours, is rudely shaken. A subject of this kind is
calculated to inspire interest in proportion to the talent which
is displayed in handling it. The incidents here related are striking,
and are worked into a life-story of absorbing interest."—
Morning Post.
"There is a good deal of human interest in the storj' which
deals mainly with people moving in the middle class. Many of the
characters are delineated with consummate skill. Dr. Daly has
a true feeling for the pathos of an unrequited passion, which
makes us hope that he will give us stronger work in the future."
— Scotsman.
"Dr. lialy has produced a healthy, readable story, free from
most vf the defects which mar nine-tenths of contemporary
fiction. From first to last the story is thoroughly enjoyable.
The author suffers from no poverty of imagination. He is
apparently rich in the qualities which go to the making erf a
first-class novelist, and with perseverance he is certain to obtain
a recognised place among writers of contemporary fiction." —
Notts Daily Guardian.
IRELAND IN THE DAYS OF DEAN SWIFT.
"The body of Dr. Daly's book could hardly be other than
welcome, for it consists of nothing less than the cream of
Swift's own writings. Dr. Daly's introduction is well enough,
• though very hard on Queen Anne, who is dead. His view of
Swift's character and conduct is on the whole quite right. The
short introductions to the several pieces are also as a rule
sufficient, though the author is in more than one of them less
careful to restrain his sentiments than in the general intro-
duction." — Saturday JRevieiv.
"This book is most welcome, for it contains all Swift's political
writings on Irish affairs. Dr. Daly has written short intro-
ductions to the various pieces, in which he states briefly and
succinctly the circumstar.ces under which they were written.
These introductions will be found very useful by all readers,
even those most conversant with the history of the period, and
they are admirable in tone and spirit. The general intro-
duction to the volume which deals with the life of swift, is also
deserving of the highest praise. Dr. Daly writes sensibly on a
subject in which writers are prone to extremes; he is neither a
fanatic nor a partisan, but states his case with calmness and
without exaggeration and meets the objections of the other side
in a reasonable spirit. The sketch shows that Dr. Daly is
possessed of a sound judgement and keen logical acumen, which
greatly enhances the value of the work." — Cork E.vaminer.
" It is curious that among the countless books that the state
of Ireland has called forth, the Tracts of Dean Swift have never
untill now been republished apart from his collected works. A
certain side of Irish life they portray with extraordinary vivid-
ness. It may be hoped that the event will prove to Dr. Daly
the existence of a public for Swift's writings, and that he will
print the Tracts inextenso." — Athenmum.
"Dr. Daly has written a capital introduction, and further
explanatory notes, with extracts from the writings of the best
master of prose that ever wielded a pen. The work is very
interesting, and is an apt and welcome contribution to the
literature of the Irish Question. The book is a useful adjunct
to any Irish history of the troubled, yet memorable time of
swift, and will give a capital insight into the politics of the day."
— iLiterary World.
"IRELAND IN '98."
"A volume about 450 pages, based on Madden's "Lives of
United Irishmen," containing the substance of those bulky
volumes, besides additional matter from the author's unpublished
MSS, with portraits and cartoons." — Nation.
"Lively and pictorial representations of the leading patriots
of '98. They are trustworthy in matters of fact, and certainly
interesting." — Scotsman.
"Dr. Daly has made a favournble reputation by his works
"Radical Pioneers," and "Ireland in the Days of Dean Swift"
which are well known. That reputation will be maintained by
the present volume, as the sketches of notable Irish patriots of
the era of '98. He does not profess to be impartial, but we have
never found him uncandid. In historical writing, candour and
not a colourless impartiality is the one thing needful. The
chapter on Secret Societies is rich in information and as
novel as it is fascinating. The substance of Dr. Daly's
book is thoroughly honest and is more interesting than many
romances." — Manchester E,cammer.
"Dr. Daly traces forcibly the growth of the national spirit
and succinctly puts before us a faithful picture of the time from
the best authorities. He writes in good faith, with a deep love of
Ireland aud sincere admiration for what was heroic in the leaders
of '98. This work, owing to its admirable method of represen-
tation, is likely to make its way among the English public and
sure to do good." — Academy.
" An entertaining book, containing everything that is worth
pi'eserving of the history of that pei'iod. The introduction is a
masterly exposition of the English policy towards Ireland during
the 18th century." — Wit and Wisdom.
"STORM HEROES. "
" A stirring story of splendid service in our Life boats, a
general sketch of the gradual development of the National
Institution being also given. The letterpress which will well
repay perusal by young and old, is well illustrated." — Literary
World. '
ft '
" It is a story of life boats and the brave and gallant men
who man them. It is well worth reading, being written in the
author's pleasant, quaint, and pathetic manner." — Life.
'GLIMPSES OF IFISH INDUSTRIES.'"
" I hope that this book will be very nsefal in effacing impres-
sions which are most unjust to the Irish people." — Extract of
Zetter from the Rt. Hon. W. E. Gladstone, Bated Oct. 7th
"A sugoreative and practical book, brightly written with fresh
and well digested matter on provisi^^ns, trade, lace, woollens,
fisheries, railway, and possible industries. The book is fresh
and full of new points. It will encourage exhausted Irish
politicians as it will surprise English disciples of laissez faire."
— Pall Mall Gazette.
" This is a book which should not fail to be read and re-read
by all who are interested in the solution of the Irish question.
The chapters on the various industries and the afforesting of
Ireland contained much that is valuable and interesting. Dr.
Daly's indictment against the existing railway system in Ireland
is formidable, and one who has travelled on their lines will agree
■with him that there is ample room for improvement. It is
pleasant to meet with an Irishman who believes that his country
has a future which depends not on political revolution or consti-
tutional change, but on the development of resources and the
encouragement of industry." — St. James's Gazette.
"Unionist and Home Rulers who disagree about the legis-
lative agency, may get valuable instruction from Dr. Daly's
compact and authentic treatise on the best methods of increasing
the prodactive resources of Ireland. The pertinence of the
author's remarks may be inferred from the fact that the Board
of Trade have now instituted a comprehensive official inquiry
to be held in Dublin with regard the excessive rates and charges
on the Irish railways. Dr. Daly has a vein of humourous jest,
■which he indulges pleasantly enough upon tlie history of the
pig, and his description of the great bacon factory of Messrs.
Shaw and Mathieson at Limerick, vying with the great American
establishments, should lend digiiity to the savoury rashers on a
London breakfast-table. This book is certain to obtain a large
share of public attention." — Illustrated London News.
" Dr. Daly is plain spoken, he roundly tells his countrymen
that the decay of Irish Industries is in a great measure due to
the Irish themselves, and he gives important suggestions how
several of the industries may be revived. He is sorupulously
fair anC heartily praises the Dublin Unionist, Pirn, for hisvcfforts
to make Poplin fashionable. Dr. Daly deals ■with many of his
subjects in a light playful manner, but he always hits a blot.
Tor instance, Ireland is ruined by the live cattle trade, which;.
TU
has crushed out tanninsr, boot and shoe making, cvnib inakinsr.
<S:c. He calls for abattoirs and ivfrisjeratiug vans and uns}>arinsrly
denounces the defects of ibe middlemen and cattle Kv*t cv>m-
panies. He is deservedly hard on the Irish railway system, or
rather want of system. His chapter on l^inkiiiij is the m^^t
useful in the book, while his suargestions on the tisherios aro
thronsrhly sound and helpful." — Academy,
" Dr. J. Bowles Daly has set a crood example to the profes-
sional Irish patriot by devoting himself to the pivduction of a
series of books, dealing with the most iniport.nnt iiueivsts of
the country. He shows how banking and railway enterprise
and other important Irish industries are bungled by bad and
ill-directed management. He has carefully considered the history
of the various industries which e3,ist or have existed, their
present comlition and the obstacles to their development. He
brings together an array of instructive facts, gathered from the
most authentic sources and sets theni forth in a racy stylo with
clear arrangement and lucid exposition." — Scotsman.
'"It is not too much to say that since Sir Kobert Kane
published his notable volume on the "Industrial Uesonrces of
Ireland," now an effete authority, no such contribution as
""Glimpses of Irish Industries" has been made to tl>o naticnial
literature. The statements of this book have been carefully
gleaned and are classed in their order with the skill of thestntis-
tician and the practised illustrative ingen\iity of the cultivn^Hl
man of letters. From tirst to last these pages will be read with
the closest attention. We consider this book to be of ilie
highest importance as a guide to every honest student of tho
Irish problem. Dr. Daly's work ought to arrest tho attiMitiou of
■every iiulepoilent and practical thinker, and shouUl ii jissisl. as
it is intpuded, to stiniulute a spirit of hoiu>st, prael ieal, a«ul in
the highest sense, patriotic olYi>rt, its author will have e.irued
tlie gratitude of every seiisihle English politician atul of eviM-y
light thinking working man in Ireland."- -Iri,s'/i Tiitiea.
"The author's glimpses are entertaining, highly suggestive,
full of information, and set before tlio render with much artistic
skill. The book may be read as a literary entertainment by
persons who feel very little interest in th(> subject, hut at. th(>
same time it has far more solid (pialities. Dr. Daily luis (utlle^^ted
a vast amoinit of facts, and his proposal aud suggest i(Mis should
command /.ho attention of Irish tlai)it!ilists. It is a work which
shoul(|,I)e dilig(>ntly perused by all st!it(>snien who conctM?! IIumu-
selves witli the })r(>sont aiul ruturo of Ireland. Tho giMioral
temper and spirit of tho book is fr(>sli, aninuiting and breezy.
Wo wish every Irish Capitalist woukl road it."— JJuibj Hvprvss.
Vlll
" The author, J. Bowles Daly, is already well and favourably
Icnown as the writer of books that deserve a place upon the
shelves of every Irish library — sound, honest, useful books that
are brio'ht in style and valuable for the matter that they contain.
One of the best chapters in this book is that devoted to bank-
ing. Dr. Daly states his viewt, without any mincing of language,
that our banks serve as drains for the removal of the country's
capital, and that in consequence Irish Industries have declined.
The author states with vigour and precision many old and some
new facts that are essential to a proper understanding of the
present social and economic condition of Ireland, and his book
claims a cordial welcome." — Freeman's Journal.
"It is a relief to open and read a book upon any Irish subject
which is interesting and instructive, without being polemical.
Dr. Daly's latest book is devoted mainly to giving information
rather than waging war, and as information is welcome to every-
body the volume as a whole may be read with pleasure and
profit by Unionists and Home Rulers, Catholics and Protestants.
In this book, as in its predecessors, Dr. Daly proves himself
master of a very bright and pleasing literary style, and he has
been at great pains to collect a number of the most interesting
details concerning the various trades and manufactories with
which he deals. The history of the pig is one of the most entre-
taining in the book, and though Dr. Daly uses with skill govern-
ment returns, and blue books, he never loses sight of that
fastidious person, the general reader, who will gain from the
perusal both information and pleasure." — Manchester Examiner.
"This volume has many merits. It is written in an easy
attractive stj'le which makes it a veiy pleasant task to find out
what the author thinks about Ireland and her industries. He
combines very necessary qualifications. He has practical know-
ledge of his subject, he has studied it theoretically in its general
relations with other subjects, he has in addition enlightened
sympathy enabling him to see where are the remediable faults
and where the external hindrances which have hitherto impeded
Irish indiastrial development. The author is slightly fantastical
in some of his views, but he is a patient and skilful workman
who has chosen his materials well and has put them to the best
use.'^— Manchester Guardian.
\'tn%, ^al^ittta.
MATHEMATICAL WORKS BY Mr. P. GHOSH.
The Books marked thus * are Revised and Enlarged by his son
Mr. A. S. GHOSH, F. R. A. S. (London), Professor of Mathematics
and Economics, City College, Calcutta; Member of the
Association for the Improvement of Geometrical
Teaching (England) ; Member of the
British Bimetallic League,
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( ii )
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• » » ,. ^1^51*'^ „ "ii^ /,
qiftlf'JScT ^*1T^TT (f'f'Ct) (lf«JT ^^^^)^qi^'^„ ^\j^' //,
<ii1 r l^Jl 1 *J^;; I -^ kJ ^j^ ( o-*^ C^ ) (;'^;^ ) vl-^(J*
( iii )
Opinions on the New Editions of tlie
ARITHIVIEJIC and EUCLID.
" A serviceable treatise (the Arithmetic) based on sound prin-
ciples. It is well furnished with examples, and contains more than
100 pages of Indian University Examination Papers. The Chapter
on Coinage Systenas and Exchange seems especially good."
The Mathematical Gazette (London), May 1S95.
" An excellent edition (the Euclid) containing nnnieroua
exercises, with useful hints for solution, and addenda introducing
the student to modern results. Among these is a valuable section
on Maxima and Minima, in which the method of the ' Coincidence
of Equal Values' is well expounded."
The Mathematical Gazette {London), May 1895,
I regard this as a very suitable text-book for students in
Indian Schools. It does not like some Arithmetics give mere
Rules without reasons, but the Rules given are briefly and concisely
proved. The abbreviated methods of squaring numbers and of
performing multiplication and division in special cases ai'e very
useful from an examination point of view, as are also the hints for
resolving numbers into factors. The princij^al feature of the book
is the great fulness with which Commercial and Stock Exchange
ti'ansactions are treated ; the book thus forms an excellent manual
for students preparing for a Commercial career. From a scientific
point of view the Chapter on the Metric System is exceedingly-
useful. The examples are very full and well chosen, and a very
-extensive series of University Examination Papers is appended, of
which the answers are given, thereby greatly increasing their
• usefulness to private students.
Andrew C. D. Crommelin, f. r. a. s.
Ziute Scholar of Trinity College, Cambridge,
Assistant- Astronomer, lloyal Observatory, Greenwich,
This edition of Euclid seems admirably suited for students
at all stages of their course. Beginners are assisted in the
■definitions by the use of bold types for the thing defined, and
in the figures by the dotting of the construction lines. The
abbreviations, which have been introduced from Book II onwards,
seem calculated to assist in the more rapid comprehension of
the drift of the demonstration. They have been wisely omitted
in Book I, as the beginner has sufficient difficulty in following the
proof, without t>e additional one of remembering the significsyice
of unwonted* symbols. For more advanced students the Notes
and Additional Propositions are of great utility; the former call
attention to special difficulties, and the apparent weak points
of Euclid's methods, such as the 12th Axiom. The latter include*
iihe more important results of modern geometers.
( iv )
The Problems and Examiuation Papers are very numerous,,
and the Hints for the sohition of these will doubtless be acceptable
to students. The Chapter on Maxima and Minima (illustrated by
numerous examples) is particularly worthy of attention, since this
subject has been very inadequately treated in nearly all elementary
text-books.
Andrew C. D. Crommelin, f. r. a. s.
Late Scholar of Trinity College, Cambridge,
Assistant-Astronomer, Royal Observatory, Greenwich.
. I have looked through Me. P. Ghosh's Euclid, of which the
sixteenth edition has been brought out in a revised and improved
form by his son Me. A. S. Ghosh. A large amount of illustrated
matter has been introduced in this edition, and a fresh examination
of the work confirms me in the opinion, which I expressed sevea
years ago, that it is on the whole an admirable text-book, which
deserves to be largely used in our schools.
ASUTOSH MUKHOPADHYAY,
M. A., D. L., F. R. A. S., F. E. S. (Edin).
President of the ^Mathematical Board of Studies^
University of Calcutta.
The perusal of Mr. Ghosh's Euclid has given me much pleasure.
The most striking feature of the work is, I think, the valuable collec-
tion of additioual propositions placed at the end of each book, which
s'lould prove of great service to the older student. The exercises are
also good, and the hints, if rightly used, should be of much value,
I am glad to see that the 1st Book is not abbreviated. Some of the
alternative proofs in the 3rd Book are so much better than Euclid's
t.liat they might be put first as the best ones for the student
to learn. The chapter ou Maxima and Minima is a valuable addition
as is also the introduction to Modern Geometry. The introduction
of these into the Euclid will save the teacher the trouble of giving
copious notes. The book contains many of the best features of the
later Euchds published in England, and should prove invaluable to
Indian students,
R. N. HAYGARTH, b. a.,
Late Scholar of Queen's College, Cambridge.
I CONSIDEE your Arithmetic to be both practical and thorough,
as well as being a marvel of cheapness. I may add the same
remarks with reference to your Euclid as far as it treats. The paper
you inserted on "Maxima and Minima" seems to me very ingenious.
ANDREW A. STAPLETON, B. A.,
Principal, St. George's College, Alussoorie.
Chey (^Arithmetic and Euclid^ seem to be very good, and, what
is a very important consideration for students, at a very" reasonable
pr ce.
They^are being used in our school here.
*" GEORGE WAUGH,
Princi2>al, Scotch Mission College, Sialhott.
( V )
The author's books have for some time been in use in this school
either as text books or supplementarj"^ text books, and their worth
is acknowledged by their continued use.
W. A. MANSELL, M. A., S. T. B.,
Principal, Reid Christian College, Lucknow.
Me. p. Ghosh's Euclid, revised and enlarged by Mr. A. S. Ghosh,
-F. R. A. s., contains all that a candidate for the Entrance Examina-
tion requires to lead him with ease through the elements of Geometry.
There is a large collection of Riders, with Notes and Hints for
solution. I can strongly recommend the book to the attention of
students reading for the Entrance Examination of the Indian
Universities. Its price, R 1 i a. is ridiculously cheap.
MOHENDRA NATH DUTT, M. A.,
Professor of jMatJiematias, Govt. College, Benares,
Member of the London Mathematical Society,
They {Arithmetio and Euclid) are excellent works and deserve
«very encouragement. MADHU SUDAN MOOKERJEE,
Hd. Master, Zillah school, Sultanj'ur.
These works (Arithmetic and Geometry) are really useful and
deserve the wide circulation they have already acquired.
M. S. ASHRAF ALI, M. A.,
Hd. Master, Zillah School, Banda.
I SEE good many improvements in the new editions of the two
books. Arithmetic and Euclid, the latter of which is being still used
as an alternative text-book on the subject of Geometrv, in the school
liere. N. M. MITRA,
lid. Master, M. B. School, Hoshiarimr.
" Mr. Ghosh's book ^Arithmetic) in the original was itself a text
well adapted to the requirements of students reading for the Uni-
versity and other examinations, but by the judicious introduction of
a large amount of new matter, you have rendered it an excellent and
admirable treatise on the subject. The arrangement of chapters is
methodical and natural, the exposition of principles is elaborate and
lucid and the examples are nicely selected, and are more varied and
numerous than could be found in former editions. The articles on
commercial matters deserve special notice, and in several places inge-
nious methods are employed in the solution of worked-out examples,
which materially enhance the value of the publication. The book, as
it now stands, is in many respects superior to all the other Indian
publications on the subject. I hope to see the revised editions of the
remaining works soon. HEM CHANDRA GilATTERJI, B. A ,
• First Mathematical I'eacher, L. M. S. Institution.
» Mirzaimr. N. W. P. *
Your father's edition of Euclid has long been i-ecognized as
-one of the best editions extant; and its adoption as a text-book in
many of our schools makes all words of recommendation ouly
( vi )
Baperfluous. The clianges and additions made by yon will consider-
ably enhance its value as a text-book; and I doubt not they will be
appreciated by the intelligent class of students and teachers alike.
As a teacher of Physical Science, I regard the chapter on
Maxima and Minima as a most valuable addition ; and I believe
that the elementary treatment that you have given of the subject
will be found a sufficient equipment for the student of Physics to
start with in his studies. Geometry is abstract so far as it treats
of spatial relations alone ; and I have always felt that Geometrical
text-books might be made far more interesting and instructive to
students than they are at present, if more regard were paid to the
concrete and physical aspect of Geometry, so far as it illustrates
the relations of physical quantities in general.
R. S. TRIVEDI, M. A., B. L.,
Memher of the Mathematiccd and Natural Science
Hoard of Stiulies, University of Calcutta.
ORIGINAL OPINIONS.
" I have looked through your ' Elements of Algebra' and think
it useful and well-adapted to the purpose for which it is intended.
The examples are numerous and good."
SiK ALFRED CROFT, m.a., K.C.I.E.,
Director of Public Instruction, Bengal..
" I have looked through your edition of Wood's Elements of
Algebra remodelled so as to adapt it for the use of native students.
I have much pleasure in expressing my favourable opinion of its merits
as a text-book. It gives fully and clearly all that is required to assist
native students to pass the ordinary University Examiuatjions ia
Algebra. The examples are numerous and well selected. SolutiL,ns
are also given freely to aid the student. These, I may add, are neatly
and methodically worked out. A complete collection of tlie Calcutta
University Flxaminatiou Papers in Algebra makes this work doubly
valuable to an Indian Student."
" It therefore seems to me to give all that either Entrance or
First Arts candidates can possibly require, and as it has the great
additional merit of cheapness, it will, I have no doubt, supersede
Todhuuter's Algebra very largely in Indian Schools and junior College
classes."
"So far as I can judge, it (Euclid I-IV. Bks.) appears to me to
be very well-adapted for the purposes you have in view. It is moder-
ately priced. It gives all that an Indian student can require for the
Entrance Examination." JOHN ELIOT, M. a.,
Senior Professor of Mathematics, Presidency College, Calcutta.
"I have looked through your edition of Wood's Algebra, and am
of opinion that it is really a useful work, very well adapted to the
needs of Indian students. Its special value lies in the unusually
C(Jpiou8 sets of examples, which are, as far as I can see, well selected
( vii )
and carefully arranged. It will also greatly assist the student to find
such a large number of examples carefully worked out in the text by
methods that seem to be generally clear aud instructive.
"I am glad also to be able to speak in very high terms of your
Elements of Euclid. The Notes which you add to each book convey
a great amount of very interesting information on geometrical points,
and I do not know of any other edition of Euclid in which the student
will find so large a collection of useful deductions. Your hints for
solution of these seem also very judicious.
Dk. HUGH W. M'CANN, m. a.,
Professor of Mathematics, Presidency College, Calcutta.
" I have looked through the second part of your Algebra, and
tinnk it is quite up to the standard of the First Arts. It ought to be ,
very useful to candidates for the F. A. Examination."
ALFRED M. NASH, m. a.,
Professor of Natural Philosophy and Astronomy,
Presidency College, Calcutta.
"I have examined the editions of Euclid's Elements and of Wood's
Algebra which Mr. P. Ghosh has especially prepared to meet the
requirements of Indian students."
"The large number of useful and judiciously selected problems
aud exercises which are worked out to assist the students in under-
standing the subject, and the hints to the solution of exercises, aud
especially of the Calcutta University Examination Papers, which are
■ added, materially enhance the value of these publications as text
books for those who are preparing for their degree examinations.
JOHN HARDIE, m. a.,
Professor of Mathematics, Doveton College, Calcutta.
"I have carefully examined the second part of your Elements oi
Aiig^ra, and I think it likely to prove useful for students to work
out with ease and neatness all problems that may be given them within
the scope of the First Examination in Arts.
D. VAN IMPE, s. J.,
Rector and Professor of Mathematics, St. Xavier's College, Calcutta.
"I have read your Algebra, Part II., and I have much pleasure to
say it will form an excellent text book for the F. A. students. The
explanations of the articles are lucid, and the examples are judiciously
selected, and are more numerous and varied than can be found in any
father book. The examples worked out in the book and the Calcutta
University Examination Papers given at the end have doubly added
to its utility. On the whole I think >our book will prove a better text
for the F. A. students than even Todhunter's Algebra."
GOURY SUNKER DEY, m.a..
Professor of Mathematics, General Assembly's Institution, Calcutta.
" I nave looked through your "Elements of Algebra," and have
to say with great pleasure that it is a nicely got up work. The
principles have been clearly explained, and very well illustrated by
the examples worked out at the end of each chapter. The exercises
( viii )
have been very judiciously aud copiously selected. I think the hook
may be very protitably adopted as a tex;t-V)Ook in our higher class
schools and colleges." BAIDT NATH BASU, m. a.,
Professor of Mathematics, Metropolitan Institution, Calcutta.
"I am very glad that you have completed your Elements of
Algebra by bringing out Part II early this session. I find that Part II
like Part I is admirably suited to the requirements of those for
whom it is intended. The exposition of principles is more lucid, and
the examples aud solutions more numerous tlian are found in any of
the treatises on Algebra used as text-books in our schools and colleges.
1 believe no Mathematical teacher who carefully examines your
Elements would ever hesitate to adopt it as a text-book." ^
GANGADHAR BANERJEE, m. a.,
Professor L, M. S. College, Bhoioaniporfi.
" I have looked through the second part of Mr. Ghosh's Elements
of Algebra and have uiucli pleasure to state that tiie work is well
adapted to the requii'ements of students preparing for the F. A.
Examination of the Calcutta University. The principles are clearly
explained, and numerous examples have been worked out in illustra-
tion of the principles. The book contains a large collection of well
selected examples for exercise, which will be of great use to students."
S. C. GUI, M. A., Lecturer, Sanskrit College.
" I have looked through the book (Algebra Part II) and consider
it useful to students preparing for the Examination in First Arts,
especially as it contains a variety of examples judiciously' collected.
1 have recommended it to the students of the Berhampore College for
using it as a text-book." HARIDAS GHOSH,
Professor of Mathematics, Govt. College, Berhampore.
"^
"I have no objection to the students in the Central College usii)^'
your books (Algebra and Euclid), and I have no doubt some will
purchase copies." CHARLES WATERS, M. A.,
Principal and Professor of Mathematics,
Central College, Bangalore.
" I should like to introduce them (Euclid and Algebra) in the
schools here." T. G. Rau,
Pri)icipal, KombhaJcoriam College. Madra.t.
. From what I have seen of Mr. P. Ghosh's Edition of Euclid, I
have been favourably impressed with the work. I think it is well
suited for the use of Indian students to whom the addition of all
the exercises set in the Entrance Examinations of the Calcutta
University at the end of the book, no doubt, will be specially wel-
come, yhe questions and the notes given, as well as the exercises
worked out, will also be found very useful.
A. M. BOSEj M. A. (Cnntah), Barrister-at-Law,
Member of the Syndicate, University of Calcutta^
( i^ )
I HAVE looked through j^our Euclid and used it in teaching
'geometry, as well as its companion volume on A/gehra. I consider
them both very suitable for students preparing for the Entrance
Examination of the Calcutta University. The Notes, Questions and
Jlodel Problems arc all that could be tlesired. Your long experience
us a teacher and professor of Mathematics in connection with schools
■uid colleges preparing students for the University has enabled you
to produce books on your favourite subject, that must commend
themselves to all teachers and students of mathematics, in connection
with the University of Calcutta.
K. S. MACDONALD, M. A., D. D.,
Pri/icipal, Free Church Normal College, Calcutta.
I HAVE much pleasure in recommending to candidates for
matriculation, Mr. P. Ghosh's edition of Euclid's Elements. Mr.
<jhosh's long experience as a teacher of Mathematics has enabled
him to gauge the needs and capacities of those for whom he writes.
His work will be found as well adapted to Indian students as the
Jiiore expensive manuals at present imported from England.
JAMES KOBERTSON, M. A.,
Principal, Free Church College, Calcutta.
YOTJR edition of Euclid is a nice one.
PR AS ANNA KUMAR SARVADHIKARI,
Prineij'al, Berhampore College.
In my opinion Mr. Ghosh's Arithmetic may very well be used
as a text-book in our schools.
" The Students Wood's Algebra by Mr. P. Ghosh has been very
carefully prepared. It contains numerous examples judiciously
selected and arranged. 1 have every reason to believe that Mr.
Ghosh's Algebra will prove very useful to those for whom it is
'^d. It is already used as a text-book in the Hindu School."
Mb. Ghosh's FAiclid has been very carefully prepared. It
contains much useful matter, and I have no doubt it will be of great
use to candidates preparing for the Entrance Examination.
BHOLANATH PAUL, M.A.,
Head JMantcr, Hare School, Calcutta.
Mr. Ghosh's Euelid contains all that the Entrance student is
required to learn on the subject of Geometry ; and I think it may be
safely used as a text-book in our schools. H. L. ROY, M. A.,
First Mathematical Teacher, Hindu School, Calcutta.
I HAVE seen Mr. P. Ghosh's edition of "Euclid's Elements of
Geometry" Part 1. It contains the tirst four books only. Besides a
large collection of well arranged exercises, a few typical theorem.-*
and problems have been worked out and placed at the end of each
book immediately before the deductions to be worked' out iiy the
student, feints for the solution of these exercises are given at the
end of the book. The Propositions of each book have been very
carefuUy written, and a great deal of useful matter in the shape oE
notes, together with questions, have been [)laced at the end of eac^i
( ^ )
book. The preparation of the work must have cost Mr. Ghosh much
labour and thought. The mechanical execution of the book is on
the whole very satisfactory, and the price, which is only R 1-4, is
cheap enough. I have no hesitation in saying that Mr. G-hosh's book
will prove immensely useful in the hands of students preparing
themselves for the University Entrance Examination.
B. M. DEY, M. A., Head Master, Iloiurah.
Mr. P. Ghosh's Edition of the Elements of ^wc^trfis based on
the valuable edition of Mr. Potts. It contains only the first four
Books which are prescribed for the Entrance Examination. The
explanatory notes and questions at the end of each Book will con-
siderably help students in understanding the subject. The exercises
have been judiciously selected and are well adapted to the wants and
capacities of Entrance students. The Hints to the exercises greatly
enhance the value of the book. Considering the amount of matter
it contains, I think it may be fairly introduced as a text-book into
our schools. B. M. PAUL, B. A.,
Mathematical Teacher, F. C. College, Calcutta.
Euclid's Elements of Geometry, Part I, is another of Mr.
P. Ghosh's most useful publications. Such works are received
only when a teacher of superior abilities comes forward to communi-
cate his knowledge, combined with the results of his experience, and
discloses the secret of his success. To the library of the young
student preparing for the Entrance Examination this work will be
a most valuable acquisition.
ISWAR CHANDRA CHAKRAVAETI,
First Teacher, Free Church Institution.
The solutions by Mr. Ghosh are neat, good, and will be of con-
siderable advantage as specimens for boys preparing for exan&fiv_>^ion
in Arithmetic, Algebra and Geometry. ' ■
M. MOWAT, M. A.,
Professor of Mathematics, Patna College.
I CONSIDER it ito be very carefully and neatly arranged. The
collection of papers will be very useful to scholars preparing for the
Entrance Examination, and the solutions may be of much service to
teachers. I would strongly recommend all concerned, especially
teachers, to purchase a copy.
J. P. ASHTON, M. A.,
Principal, L. M. S. College. Bhoivanipore.
"I HAVE no 'objection to the use of your Algebra and your
edition of Euclid in schools under the control of this department."
t H. B. GMGG,
Director of Public Instructidii, Madras.
"Both books (Euclid and Algebra by P. Ghosh) are careful and
3 udicious compilations and will be very useful in schools and to
private students."
( xi )
"YOUE excellent Arithmetic might be used with advantage in
the Entrance class and the class below it."
R. GRIFFITHS, m. a.,
Director of Puhllc Instruction, N. IF, Provinces.
It (the Arithmetic) will, I have no doubt, be a useful text-book
on the subject, more especially in Indian Schools. Its price -R9-I-8
is greatly in its favour. The large collection of examples taken
from Examination Questions of the various Indian Universities is a
very valuable feature of the work. JOHN ELIOT, M. A.,
Senior Prof, of Mathematics, Presidency College, Calcutta..
"It is really a very useful book, better suited to the require-
ments of Indian Colleges and Schools than any work on Arithmetic ,
I know of. I shall take particular care to introduce your book
wherever I can." UMESH CHANDER SaNYAL m. a.,
Prof, of Mathematics, Benares College,
"I HAVE looked through your 'Elements of Arithmetic' and I
consider it a very useful school-book. Many exercises are worked
out fully and clearly which benefits the student by teaching him
the proper method of working out his sums. The series of examples
appended to each rule will enable him to master the subject
thoroughly. The miscellaneous examples and the Examination Papers
of the different Universities will be of great help to students prepar-
ing for the Entrance Examination. Your book is already in use as
a text-book in some of the classes of the Hindu School."
CHUNDY CHURN BANERJEA,
Head Master, Hindu School, Calcutta.
"1 EEAD with great pleasure your work on the Elements of
Arithmetic, and have no hesitation in placing it among the best
school books on the subject. The rules are clearly stated, and solu-
ti^<*^iave been given of a large number of typical examples. The
apters on Factors and the Unitary Method will be of great use
to students. The work contains a large variety of examples for
exercise, and will, I dare say, supersede the text-books now in use
in our .schools and colleges."
SHIB CHANDER GUI, M. A.,
Lecturer, Sanskrit College, Calcutta.
The book (Arithmetic) appears to be a very goo<l one of its
kind, and is especially suited to Indian schools, because it deals with
Indian, and not merely with English money.
JOHN C. NESFIELD, M. A.,
Inspector of Schools, Oudh.
Your Arithmetic, as far as I can see, appears to be a very
useful work. W. C. HORST, B. A.,
* Head Master, High School, Allshabad.
It (Arithmetic) seems to me an exceedingly cheap book — the
cheapest I have seen in India — for the quantity and quality of
Arithmetical matter it contains. J. COOK, M. A., ^
Principal, Doveton Protestant College, Madras.
scnooi
tiojilrt
^^^^fnapte
( xii )
I FIND that, for more reasons than one, your book (Arithtnetic)
is superior to all the books on the subject now in use in our schools.
JOGOBANDHU BHUDDER,
Head Master, Zilla School, Jessore.
I HAVE looked through it (Arithmetic) carefully and consider it
to be exceedingly useful.
UGEORE CHUNDEE MOOKERJEE,
Head blaster, Zilla School, Monghyr.
The changes made in your "Text-Book of Algebr«»." are specially
valuable. You will be glad to know that your Arithirc<.:c, Algebra
and Euclid have been, by the Punjab Text-Book Committee, re-
commended for introduction into the scheme of studies for Anglo-
Vernacular Schools. This was done after consultation with the
chief headmasters who were unanimous in commending them.
W. BELL,
Professor, Govt. College, Lahore,
and Secretary to the Punjab Text-Book Com.
They are deservedly popular and are largely used b}^ the
students of this Province. M. A. STEliST. ph. d.,
Registrar, Punjah University, Lahore'
WOR KS
BY
Mr. A. S. GHOSH, F. R. A. S. (London),
Professor of Mathematics and Economics, Citij College, Calcutta; ^^-^■
Member of the Association for the Improvement of
Geometrical Teaching {England).
THE ELEMENTS OF TRIGONOMETRY. «s-2 4rt. Post. 2a.
OPINIONS
This work is marked by the clearne.'^s of exposition nvid the
attention to students' difficulties which might be expected fnjm the
exiierience of the author, both as a writer and as a teacher. It is
a serviceable treatise. A judicious use has been made of typogra-
phical distinctions. Mr. Ghosh's book is a worthy compiiiiion to
his editions of his father's Elements of Geometry and Arithmetic for
College n7id Schools, reviewed in our last issue. *
The Mathematical Gazette (London), October 1S95.
I REGARD this Trigonometry as a very suitable text book both
dt beginners and more advanced students. The author's aim haa
( xiii )
been throughout to excite the student's interest, and to show aa
early as possible the numerous practical applications of the subject.
The chapter on Curves both gives a very vivid idea of the varia-
tions of the Trigonometrical Functions and serves as an inti-oduction
to the study of Analytical Geometry. The short chapter on
Geodetical Surveying gives an idea of the methods employed in
this work. The examples and examination papers are very full
and copious.
Andrew C. D. Crommelin, f. r. a. s.
Late Scholar of Trinity College, Cambridge,
Assistant-Astronomer, Royal Observatory, Greenwich.
I HAVE looked through the Elements of Trigonometry by ,
Mr. a. S. Ghosh. The feature of the work which has struck me
most is the liberal introduction of practical illustrations throughout
the book, which cannot fail to make the subject interesting to the
beginner. The work taken as a whole, will compare favourably with
high class English books on the same subject.
asutosh mctkhopadhyay,
M. A., D. L., F. R. A. S., F. R. S. (Edin).
President of the Mathematical Board of Studies,
University of Calcutta.
I HAVE looked through your " Elements of Trigonometry" and
have much pleasure in speaking of its merits.
Much new and interesting matter is put in it, and everything is
up to date. The chapter on Curves, the Astronomical problems on
Limits, the Optical note, all point out that there are higher branches
of Mathematics, as Coordinate Geometry, the Differential Calculus,
aj^ji^Optics which require the service of Trigonometry, and that it
oes not stand in bare isolation. The chapter on Dimensions,
Symmetry etc., deserve the attention both of the teacher and the
student. The subject has been made palatable and sufficiently
attractive to beginners. The practical bearings of the subject have
been well brought out. It may rank high among the well-known
text-books in use, and in my opinion supersede some of them. The
examples are numerous, and among them are many important and
useful deductions and formulae. The book contains everything which
Buch text-books should contain and leaves nothing to be desired. It is
exactly the book 1 should like to use as a text, and I have accordingly
recommended it to my students. To speak of other things, it has
the stamp of an English publication both in the treatment of the
subject and the way in which the book is got up.
, T. V. SWAMINATHA AIYAR, c. a.
■» Professor of Mathematics, S. P. G. College, Tric%inoj}oly.
1 have looked through your work carefully and find it very
nicely arranged. Really the treatise is , very comprehensive and
contains a great deal of new matter not hitherto introduced Into
( xiv )
text-books on Trigonometry. The chapter on Carves, the proposi-
tions on Limits and the chapter on Survey by Triangulation ini roduce
matter not only interesting in itself, but important on account of
the present requirements for higher Mathematical teaching in India.
A judicious selection and arrangement of the examples lenders
the work more valuable. I have great pleasure in recommending it
to the students preparing for the Intermediate Examination in Arts
because it is very well adapte 1 to their needs. I should like to
introduce vour books in this college.
SHANK AR LAL, M. A.
Professor of Mathematics, LashJcar College, Gtvalior,
t. I BEG to acknowledge with very many thanks the receipts of your
new Trigonometry as well as the small treatise on Pedal and Anti-
pedal Triangles. At present I have had very little time for
thoroughly examining the book, but what little I have seen or it, I
have been very pleased with.
It struck me from the little that I have seen, that it hns been
well and concisely written. I have no doubt that tlie chajiter on
Curves and the Astronoinical Problems which you have introduced
will prove of great interest to both teacher and taught.
C. H. DIXON, B. A.,
La Blartiniere College, Lucknow.
PEDAL AND ANTI-PEDAL TRIANGLES. 4a. Poet, i a.
Ojnnion : — An interesting little paper. The author hns been
anticipated on some points, but his mode of presentation is fresh,
and the properties in the latter part are new.
The Mathemetical Gazette (London), May ISS'fe^
WHAT IS BIMETALLISM ? Price 2d. or 4o. Post. ^d. or i a.
SOiME OPINIONS OF THE PRESS.
"AVe have received from the author, Mr. A. S. Ghosh, who is
the Professor of Economics and Mathematics at the City C'ljUege,
Calcutta, a pamphlet entitled " What is Bimetallism ?" (Calcutta :
Patrick Press). The pamphlet is a singularly clear statement of
the bimetallic case, and is the more interesting because, though
written by a native of India, the point of view taken is distinctly
English and Imperial. In his preface Mr. Ghosh acknowledges his
indebtedness to Mr. Robert Barclay, of Manchester, with whom
he discussed the subject dui-ing Mr. Barclay's recent visit to
Calcutta ;«but we understand that he had already become, on«[jurely
theoretical grounds, an enthusiastic bimetallist. He had recently
edited the nineteenth edition of a work on arithmetic by his
father, which is very largely used in the schools and colleges of
India, and in dealing with the exchanges in this work he had
( ^v )
adopted the bimetallic theory. The pamphlet before us is notice-
able for the attention 'which its author gives to the arithmetical
aspect of the question. Many of the arguments advanced on the
monometallist side would never be used at all if their authora
would follow the example of Mr. Ghosh and consider the exact
Hgures of the problem. It is a little remai-kable, too, that it should
he necessaiy for an Indian writer to reiiiind many eminent contro-
versialists in this country that they "have brought much confusion
into the discussion by using the word ' supply ' ambiguously ; as,
' the yeai'ly output from the mines' is not that ' supply' whicli
economists imply in the law of supply and demand." Mr. Ghosh
liimself has fallen into one or two minor errors, but they do not
really affect his argument, the statement of which, with the
general get-up of the pamphlet, is a remarkable illustration of
Indian progress. Some of the illustrations drawn from physical
science are particularly happy. Mr. Ghosh very forcibly points
out, as Ricardo did long ago, that, given fair conditions, the value
and consumption of silver are guaranteed by the fact that it is a
far moi"e useful metal than gold, and his reply to Lord Farrer'a
question " Wanted, a Ratio ?" in favour of 15|- to 1 as distinctly the
most ' natural' ratio is well w^orth attention."
The Manchester Guardian, 10th June, 1S95.
The folloicing is an extract from the opinion of one vho being a monometallist is
opposed to the views of the author,]
" An extremely clever and well written pamphlet has just
been issued from the Patrick Press, Calcutta, under the title of
" What is Bimetallism ?" The author, Mr. Ghosh, is Professor of
Economics and Mathematics in the City College, Calcutta, and a
mer^'^r of the British Bimetallic League. The ai-guments in
for of bimetallism are briefly and forcibly stated ; the evils said
to have been induced by monometallism are boldly enumerated ;
the artificial appreciation of gold is set forth ; the dangers of the
present rule of monometallism are vividly portrayed ; and a
stereoscopic view of peace and plenty is presented for all who can
focus it with bimetallist glasses."
fllere follows in great length a review of the pam2}hlet, together
with the revieioer's defence of monometallisvi.J
" We recommend the pamphlet under review as of high
merit and v?ell worthy of perusal. It shows evidence of careful
study, and there is no doubt of its being the outcome of honest
conviction" : — Capital and The Indian Financial Review.
•
" WE^have to express our acknowledgements to Mr.«A. S.
Ohosh, F. R. A. s. (London), Professor of Mathematics, City College,
Calcutta, for a copy of his very able hrochn,re : — ' What is
Bimetallism ?' We can cordially recommend the perusal of this
excellent little book to all those who are concerned in this greftt
cjuestion, the practical discussion of which cannot be long delayed.
( xvi )
Those who are acquainted with the mathematical works of Mk.
P. Ghosh will find on the perusal of this work of his son that the
mantle of the father has fallen on the author, for succinct and
lucid exposition. The pamphlet is a marvel of clearness and
research": — The Simla Times Advertiser.
" Mr. a. S. Ghosh, f. r a. s.. Professor of Economics and
mathematics in the City College, and son of tlie well known Mathe-
Matician, Mr. P. Ghosh, has published a small brochure on "What
is Bimetallism ? " Its publication is very timely, for the question
of bimetallism is a burning one and cannot but be the subject of
serious consideration by the chief Governments of the world within
, twelve months.
Bimetallists recognise to the full the evils which are resulting;
from the depreciation of the rupee and the prevalent depression
of trade, and are loud in their protestations not only that soraethinj^
must be done, but that they can point out a cure which shall restovt;
the value of the rupee and bring about confidence and security in
commerce. At the same time the bimetallism which they advocate
is as puzzling and mysterious to many as exchange. Hence the
importance of a pamphlet like Mr. Ghosh's, which gives a clear and
simple explanation of the whole subject.
For those who wish to know what Bimetallism is and to under-
stand somewhat of the reasons for the strange fluctuations iu
exchange, we can, with confidence, recommend Mr. Ghosh's pam-
phlet and feel sure that if it is patiently read through, the subject
\vill appear to th^e reader in a clearer light than it has ever assumed
before :" — The Darjeeling Netvs.
" We Jhave received and read with great pleasure a panC^ilut
by Mr. A. S. Ghosh on Bimetallism. His arguments are
answerable" : — The Indo-Jiluropean Correspondence.
This is a neat little brochure, intended to explain to the general
public in a popular form the case for and against Bimetallism.
The author writes ia a clear style, and so far as it goes, no one wil!
have any difficulty in following the argument in the pamphlet.
The author's attempt to popularize a ditticult subject is to be
welcomed. — The Madras Law Journal; July 1895.
1^ All the above-mentioned publications may be
had from all Book-sellers throughout India, and from
fc THE MANAGER, PATRICK PRESS,
28 Convent Road, — Calcutta.