British Columbia. L^nds and v/orks department • Reports of exploration of a portion of the nev.' "estm.inster district. #, HgOUtt! LAM)8 AND WORKS i>EPARTMENT, BRITISH COLUMBIA. REPORTS OF EXPLORATION oi- A I'oirrmx NF:\V WESTMIXSTEK DISTRHT Tlli EAST COAST or VWrorVEH ISLW!) FROM MEX^^Ii: lOlIT Hn»KHT. CASSIAH DISTRK VICTOUrA : > i;Y nrciiAi;r» \V(ii,ff.ndkx, G»»vF.r;vM! ri.vc; OFFi i LANDS AND WORKS DEPARTMENT, BRITISH COLUMBIA. REPORTS OF EXPLORATION OF A PORTION OF THE NEW WESTMINSTER DISTRICT, THE EAST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND, FROM MENZI5:S BAY TO FORT rvUPERT, AND OF THE CASSIAR DISTRICT. VICTORIA : PRINTED BY RICHARD WOLFENDEN, GOVERNMENT PRINTER, AT THE GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE, JAMES' BAY. 1873. /. ■:i REPORT OF EXPLORATION. NEW WESTMINSTER DISTRICT, To the Honorable the Chief Commissioner of Landfi and Works, British Columbia. Although this Report is made from an exploration and actual observation of the country between the City of New Westminster and Fort Hope, embracing both sides of Fraser River, I have, from time to time, availed myself of valuable information received from practical and experienced farmers throughout the district, respecting the country in their immediate neighbourhood, the nature and value of the soil, and its adaptation to general agi-icultural purposes. Therefore, combining these together, I bope in this Report to la}' before you such information as will enable the public to form correct -^■conclusions respecting a district which now attracts so much attention; and by doing .2 this to attain the object of the department under whose authority this exploration was »r undertaken. g On the accompanying sketch, the distances between the principal points along the 2 river, and the direction from these points to the different tracts of land marked on the ^ sketch, are as nearly correct as it was possible to make them with the appliances at hand. ? Leaving Langley on the 18th of August, we commenced our exploration through j that part of the New Westminster District lying between Boundarj^ Bay and the Langley Settlement. In the general features of the country, very little change was observable. A few patches of swamp, grass land were met with; also two belts of alder land. (See sketch.) With the exception of these, the country is heavily timbered, with considerable fallen timber and thick undergrowth, the soil light and gravelly, and years of labour would have to be expended before even the most favourable parts could be made avail- able for agricultural purjioses. A few riTovcs of exeeiiont fir and cedars Avere passed through ; one about three miles east of Hall's Prairie, and the other between the latter place and the Boundary Line. Hall's Prairie-— a tract of fern and grass land — is situated west of the southern extremity of Langley Prairie, and about three miles from the Boundary Line. Soil, black loam, with cla}' and gravel subsoil. In and about the Langley District, a number of excellent farms are worked with the greatest care and attention, as is apparent from the fine fields of grain, root crops, &c., the yield of the latter being in some instances very large. The Langley Prairie, we are informed, and we have no reason to doubt, is all occupied; but a great part of it is uncultivated — a waste covered with fern and other weeds. This is much to be deplored, since, there is no doubt, that were this land in the hands of practical farmers, Langley would be one of the most flourishing settlements in the District. Between Langley and Matsqui, is situated some of the best land met Avith during the exploration. Eastward from the southern extremity of Langley Prairie, say five miles, and southward towards the Boundary Line, extends a strip of country where the undergrowth is so thick as to make it ver}' difficult to travel through, yet the soil here is of the best description (black loam) and in placed very deep. The timber has been nearly all destroyed by fire, and fallen timber and matted undergrowth cover the whole face of the country, forming an almost impenetrable jungle, from which the intending settler would be apt to turn away. But a little reflection will show, and in fact actual experiments have proved, that the difficulties in the way of bringing this Exploration Bepori. 1878 land under cultivation, are not so formidable as at first sight would appear. A fire placed in here about the month of October, should the season be favourable, would sweep it comparatively clear. This plan might be adopted by the Government; for unless this be done, or trails cut along the exterior lines of townships, so that the intending settler may get through and satisfy himself as to the nature of the soil, it may be years before this fine tract of land will be brought into notice. For no settler, however earnestly he may be in search of a home, will be likely to penetrate this jungle of fallen timber and matted undergrowth. Between this tract and the river, the country is somewhat broken or hilly, and in places the soil light and gravelly. But eastward towards Matsqui, and reaching within one mile of the Matsqui Prairie, is situated one of the finestbeltsof alder land in the district. (See sketch.) It commences near the river and extends southward about seven miles, and is probably three miles wide. The timber is very uniform in size, and about six inches through. This tract of land is comparatively level and free from undergrowth, and is also far above high Avater mark. The soil, black loam, with clay subsoil. Upon the value of this description of land it will be unnecessary to enlarge. All through the district, wherever it has been tried, the most satisfactory results have followed. Between this alder belt and Matsqui Prairie, the country is slightly rolling; the prairie itself being bounded on the west and south by maple and alder ridges, with here and there small openings covered with a heavy growth of fern. The timber is nearly all dead, and the obstacles in the way of clearing it off, and bringing the land to a state of cultivation, are light indeed compared with those Avhich settlers have to contend in other countries. The fire, in fact, doing the most of the work; as the stumps and roots being in a state of decay, can be easily got rid of; the fern is the worst enemy to con- tend with, but this in time disappears. Some of these ridges are now under cultivation, and the result is really suprising. I Avas shown a field of wheat which was growing on one of them, and I have no hesitation in saying, that for yield and quality of grain, it will equal anything ever raised in the Province. This wheat was raised on ground which had never been ploughed; the land had merely been burnt over, the stumps taken out, the seed sowed and harrowed in; and at the time I saw it (25th of August) Avas ready for reaping. Matsqui Prairie is about four miles square, and is subject to overfloAV during extreme high Avater; but for the greater part of the year affords an excellent range for stock. Nestling betAveen the range of hills on the west, and Sumass Mountain on the east, it presents a very charming picture indeed; and vicAved from one of those high ridges at its southern boundary, and at the time 1 saAv it, the loveliness of the picture cannot be equalled on the Lower Fraser. The broad green prairie stretching away to the river, was dotted here and there Avith groups of cattle, partly hid in the luxuriant green grass through Avhich they were roaming. To the left along the sides of the hills, their roofs just peeping above the dark green foliage of fruit and shade trees, Avere to be seen three or four farm houses, each Avith its field of 3'elloAv grain, or surrounded by carefully culti- vated gardens rich Avith CA^ery necessary that the soil and climate can produce; while fruit of many descriptions Avere hanging in tempting clusters from out the foliage of sturdy and healthy looking trees. I have no doubt but that most of the land bordering on the prairie is already occupied, and taking into consideration thejease Avith Avhich this land can be cleared, it is some- what surprising that more of it is not under cultivation. However, back and Avithin easy access to the prairie, the settler Avho is really earnest Avith regard to seeking a home, Avill find his Avants satisfied. BetAveen Matsqui Prairie and Sumass, Avith the exception of a strip of timbered land along the foot of the mountain, the Sumass Mountain fills the space. Eeaching Sumass we proceeded up the river, from Avhich it takes its name, thence to the Boundary Line, along Avhich Ave travelled and finished our exploration of the country south of Matsqui. Here and there small patches of open, fern land occur; ^ but aside fi'om these the country is heavily timbered, and where the fire has not crossed very fine groves of cedar and fir are found. Here again is met this immense growth of weeds, berry bushes, &c., Avhich covers the Avhole country Avestward toLangley. The soil being of a rich loamy natiire is formed, no doubt, hy the constant decaying of this 37 Vie. New Westminster District. mass of vegetable matter, Avliieh year after year springs up, and {year after year rots away. Be^tween Sumass and the Boundary Line the land is low and swampy. Sumass Prairie contains an area of nearlj^ 25,000 acres, but much of it is subject to overflow. Considerable high land is contained within its boundaries, part of which is under cultivation, and the results, so far, have been not only encouraging, but in some instances Avondoriul. Eoot crops grow remarkablj' well here, thirty tons of turnips having been raised from one acre. Potatoes, carrots, onions, &c., do equally as well. Now, to illustrate the small amount of trouble and expense attending the cultivation of this land, I will merely instance one field of wheat of eighty acres Avhich was shown me by a farmer, giving nearly his own words. The cost of producing this wheat, that is breaking up the soil from its original state, sowing and including seed, did not amount to three hundred dollars. Now placing the average yield of this field at thirty bushels per aero (its appearance would warrant expectations above this average), the reader can form sonie idea as to the amount of profit on the labour and capital invested. Yet it has been fairl}' proved, by practical tests, that the soil of the low land, that is the land subject to overflow, is the most productive. And it is a matter of no small regret, that some steps have not been taken, and some plan set on foot, by which the lands of this extensive valley might be reclaimed. Guarded on the east and west by the Chilliwhack and Sumass Mountains, it presents a frontage to the river two and a half miles long, across which, and between the points of these two mountains (see sketch), it is contended a dyke, the average height of which would not exceed six feet, would effectually reclaim the whole valle}'. It is also claimed by practical minds that the actual cost of dj-king would not exceed an average of one dollar per acre. Now ten times this amount j^er acre would scarcely leave the most favourable timbered land in the district read}- for the plough. But dyking is something from which individual effort shrinks, and which individual labour cannot be expected to accomplish in such an instance as this. The dyking of Sumass Prairie would be a benefit, not only to the people of Sumass, but to the whole Province, foritAvould render available for settlement many thousands of acres of highly fertile land ready for the plough. It would seem then that the enterprise is one which should be undertaken by or under the direction of the Government. It is not for mc to suggest the precise mode in which this should be done • my duty is simply to report, for the information of the department, that some twenty thousand acres of the most fertile land in the district is at present available only as a '= run "for cattle; and that this land can by the building of such a djd^e as I have described be rendered fit for cultivation. I must mention an objection raised by some to the feasibilit}' of this undertaking, viz. — that the water from the river soaks through, some of the lower strata of the river bank, which strata arc tapped by the interior sloughs, and that therefore no dyke w^ould exclude the water; but the correctness of this theory is denied by many who speak from actual observation; and it is a question which could easily be set at rest b}' practical test. 1 maj^ mention that land not to be compared with the prairie, is held in other parts of the district at from $7 to $10 per acre. Leaving Sumass, we proceeded direct to Chilliwhack, thence across the country in a southerly direction, along the valley of the Choowallah Piver from Avhich we strike the Boundary Line. Thjs country, probably six miles in extent, is all timbered, with the exception of a few patches of open burnt land, the surface broken or hillj'-; the soil generally good, being light loam with cla}- subsoil; but on the hills sandy, mixed with gravel. The timber, which in places is valuable, consists of fir, cedar, and cottonwood, with thick undergrowth of vine-niaplo, hazel, and dogVv'ood. In this stretch of land, and about three miles from the Sumass Settlement, is also situated a cranberry marsh of about five hundred acres. following footsteps of the whites in the matter of farming; nearly every little settlement having its patches of cereals and root crops. Eeturning from this point we proceeded up the valley of the Chilliwhack Pdver to the base of the mountains; distant from Frascr Eivex' Exploration Beporl. 1873 about eight miles. The features of the Country here are more favourable than along the valley of the Choowallah, the siirface being- not so much broken, and the soil richer and deeper. The timber consists of cottonwoocl, vine-maple, and alder, with a few scattering fir and cedar, the latter very large but of a poor quality; the undergrowth, hazel, berry-bushes, and nettles. Coal has been discovered here at the foot of the mountains (see sketch); and a prospecting company formed by the settlers are engaged in testing the extent of the lead. At present it is only traceable through a sort of cement or conglomerate rock. Chilliwhack is perhaps the most substantial and best regulated farming [district on the Mainland, if not in the Province; but it might not be considered in the nature of this report to proclaim facts which arc already patent to even the casual observer, were it not for the purpose of adducing proof as to what can be attained in the matter of farming on the Jjowcr Frat>er hy careful industr}'. Here are to be seen those signs which arc the certain indications of prosperity ; extensive and carefully cultivated fields, largo and well filled barns, and neat and comfortable looking ftxrm-houscs, surrounded with their gardens of fruit and vegetables. These signs not only point to the great fertility of the soil, but have a tendency to inspire the new settler with hope and energy, and to this fact may be attributed the large increase of settlers in this neighbourhood during the last three months.* We found the harvest here to be a week earlier than at Sumass. Leaving Chilliwhack we proceeded along the eastern boundary of the settlement, in a southerly direction towards the mountains. Nature of country : burnt timber, Avith ver}^ thick undergrowth of hazel, bcj-ry, and rose-bushes, and considerable fallen timber. Soil dark loam Avith clay sub soil. At the base of the mountains, and probably three jniles from the Chilliwhack Settlement, Ave crossed a large prairie about six miles long and from two to four wide (see sketch), covered Avith blue joint grass, and in places pea- vine. Although at present perfectly dry, it might, in consequence of its natural drainage being obstruct'ed by beaver dams, bo at certain seasons Avet, possibly partly submerged; but being much higher than high-water mark on the Fraser, there Avould be little difficulty in removing this objection. This prairie is about eight miles from the Chilli- Avhack landing; andbetAveen it and Cheam, and approaching near the river, two smaller prairies are found, each of about one mile in extent. Leaving the large prairie, and travelling east tOAvards Cheam, Ave crossed a grove of A'ery fine green timber (fir) situated about five [miles from ChilliAAdiack Settlement, and bordcrin'g on the Cheam Slough; and tAvo miles further on Ave came upon another fine bolt of aider land, something similar in extent to that Avcstof Matsqui. The nature of the soil, black loam with clay'bottom. The soil hero is very deep. The surface of the country level and comparatively free from undcrgroAvth. Nearly all this country embraced within the following boundaries, viz : ChilliAvhack on the Avest and Cheam on the east, a distance of twelve miles, and Fraser Elver on the north (including Islands) to the mountains on the south, a distance of fifteen miles, (see sketch), may be safely set down as containing more rich ag-ricultural land unoccu- pied than any other section of the same extent Avithin the limits explored. Although nearly all timbered, it is of a nature requiring no great amount of labour in clearing, if I may except the fir timber (see sketch) Avhich is always more or less hard to get rid of. But the settler jnust remember he has only the timber to contend Avith. Here he is free from fioods; and no stones exist to cover his land Avith unsightly heaps after the labour of clearing away the timber is finished. ToAvards the mountains the timber becomes more scattering, and lorn openings and thick undorgroAvth arc met Avith. Leaving the valley avo commenced the assent of "Discovery" Mountain, Avhich is situated at the eastern extremity of the vallSy. (it will bo understood here, that this plan was always adopted Avhcrever the opportunity occurred; not only to obtain a correct idea of the countiy. Init to satisfy ourselves that no prairie lands Avere being Overlooked.) The ascent of this mounta'iiT occupied five hours, and Avas over a succession of benches, some oi Avhich Avere thickly timbered Avith fir. One of these benches deserves more than a passing notice. Here the trees grcAV so close together that it Avas Avith * During the Moiitlus of August aud September, over twenty-five Pre-emptions were made in the ucijihljourhood of Chilliwhack. 37 Vie. New Westminster District. difficulty wc picked our way around them; their trunks towering upwards two hundred feet without knot or liiub, while their green branches interlaced at the top, formed an impenetrable veil through which the sun's rays never penetrate, nor •' shadows mark the flight of time." Within this grove the silence of death prevailed. Hero was do under- growth or fiillen timber, and the ground Avas level and covered with a soft yielding moss, over which, as we trod, our footsteps gave back no sound. So closely huddled together were the trees, that it was almost impossible for the eye to penetrate a dozen yards in any direction; turn Avhich way you would, their tall spectral trunks stood up like grim sentinels keeping watch and guard over the gloom beyond. Leaving these benches behind, we cross others covered with low bushes and stunted pines, and at last scramble up to the bare peak. Perhaps the most extended view to be had on the Lower Fraser is from this point. From here the river can be traced, through all its windings, eighty miles to the Gulf; and looks still and motionless in tho distance. New Westminster can be seen with the naked eye, and every settlement along tho river can be readily distinguished. Sumass and Chilliwhack, the former seventeen, the latter twelve miles away, appear almost at our feet. Here also can be seen, in the country between Chilliwhack and Chcam, new openings made by recent settlers; looking upon which, as new signs of awakening prosperity, the immagination wanders into the future when these green plains shall be dotted with herds, and the tangled growth of forest which now^ covers the virgin soil of the uplands, shall yield to the hand of hard}- industry, and fields of Avaving corn shall take its place; when tho eye from this point will rest on many a hamlet; and the sound of human voices, and human industry, Avill fill the space where now is silence and solitude. Fanciful as this picture may seem, and I have no doubt, those Avhosc experience have never led thorn beyond the beaten lines of travel through this district, may think it very fanciful indeed. Yet it is not only possible for this state of things to come about, but the time is not so dimly marked in the future when this very picture will become a living reality. For it can scarcely be consistent Avith the natural course of events, that this beautiful valley Avill remain long as it is, a comparative Avilderness, while so many of our fellow beings are struggling for a miserable existence in tho crowded homes of the old Avorld. Turning to the south, and Avithin one hour's Avalk from this peak, Ave came out upon an open country, miles in extent, of benches and rolling hills, covered Avith a species of fine bunch grass, and dotted here and there Avith groves of stunted pines. (See sketch.) The existence of this country has been knoAvn to the Cheam Indians for years; and according to them no Avhite man has ever been there. I have also the information from the Indians Avho accompanied me, that Avintcr commences there in October, and ends la April. This country Avould be valuable as a summer range for stock, especially sheep. The best approach to it from tho Fraser, would be up the valley of a creek which empties into the Fraser eight miles above Cheam; but I am of the opinion that this open stretch of country extends through to the valley of the Similkameen. Eeturning to the river avc explored round the Cheam Islands. (Sec sketch.) On two of these Islands, settlement has already commenced ; but miles of unoccupied land still remain. These Islands are lightly timbered Avith fir, cedar, and white birch; with undergrowth of hazel, rose-bush, &c. The soil is the usual alluvial deposit, covered Avith vegetable mould, and has proved, so far, to be very productive; in fact avc found here every thing in the shape of root crops, A-egetables, &c., Avhich are common to the climate of British Columbia, grOAving in great luxuriance. BetAveen Chcam and Hope no unoccupied land of any extent Avas found. Crossing the river at Hope, wc commenced our ex])lorations AvestAvard along the northern bank. BctAveen Hope and Agassiz Landing, a distance of tAventy-fiA'e miles, there is very little Avorthy of note in the shapc'of agricultural laud. Bare and rugged mountains, Avith here and there small stretches of land mostly' timbered Avith cottonAvood, and subject to overfloAv, make up this portion of the country. At Agassiz Landing occurs the first break in the mountains. (See sketch.) This open stretch of country is partly occupied, and one of the best cultivated farms met Avith in the district is to be seen here. The country as far back as the mountains is lightly timbered, Avith here and there open patches of grass and fern laud, and clumps of vino-maple and hazel bushes; and very Exploration Report. 1873 little difficulty would be experienced in clearing any portion it. Soil, dark loam, with clay subsoil. At tbe nortbern extremity of tbis open country is found a valley, or pass in the mountains, about six miles long and three wide, leading to tbe foot of Harrison Lake. (See sketch). Some verj^ good land is met with bore. The valley is thinly timbered witb fir and cedar (burnt). Near Harrison Lake tbe land is low and wet. Two Cran- berry Marshes, tbe largest about 200 aci'es, are also found bere. From this point we proceeded down tbe Frascr to Harrisonmoutb, thence up the Harrison River and Lake. Along tbis route tbe mountains bem in both rivers closely; and witb tbe exception of a tract of wet grass land (400 acres), no unoccupied land was met with, although Ave ascended the mountains at different points to obtain a view of the surrounding country. At the foot of the lake, to the right, and about half a mile from its junction with the river, is situated a hot spring, the steam arising from which can be seen from some distance as we approach it. The existence of this spring has been known for years; but I am not aware tbat any particular attention has ever been turned towards it, or the medicinal properties of its waters determined. For ought we know, it may be as valuable as tbe hot springs of California, which constantly attract invalids from this country. The Indians have, for a long time, been in the habit of using it in certain cases of sickness, and the plan they adopt is this : — A piece of cedar bark is placed on the ground at the edge of the spring from where the steam is rising, and the invalid covered with a blanket, sits in a crouched j)osition on this bark for hours at a time; and if they are to be believed, many cures have been effected. To test the temperature of the water, we threw in a salt salmon, which was cooked in a few minutes. Leaving Harrison Eiver we proceeded down the Fraser about three miles, and entered what is known as Harris' Slough. (See sketch). On the Island between this slough and the river, as also on the Mainland, a few stretches of high timbered land are met Wj-th ; these being known by the description of timber (cedar and fir) ; the parts subjcc t to overfloAV are covered with cottonwood. Prairie land is also met with both on the Islands and Mainland; this however is nearly all occupied. The slough is about ten miles long, and enters the Fraser at a point opposite Sumass Mountain. The best piece of unoccupied land bordering on the slough, was found near its head on the Main- land; its extent about six hundred acres, lightly timbered. Leaving the slough we travelled westward to a lake ; thence across the lake to a valley (marked Island Prairie on the sketch). The extent of this valley is about 1500 acres, is partly occupied as a range for stock, and is subject to overflow. No unoccupied high laud, fit for arigcultural purposes, was found bordering on tbis valley, the mountains almost closing it in on three sides. In tbe centre of the lake, at the foot of the valley, is an Island containing about five hundred acres of the best land met with on the trip doAvn. The soil is the same met Avith on the Cbcam Islands. Tbis Island is lightly timbered AA'ith cedar and fir, but tbe undcrgroAvtb is something AA^onderful; nettles and berry-bushes arc found groAving here scA^en feet high. The timber has all been killed by fire, and very little difficulty Avould be experienced in clearing. The Island stands about four feet aboA^e high Avater mark. The lake abounds Avith fine trout, and, at the time Ave crossed, the surface of the AA^ater was coA^ered Avith ducks and geese, Avhich rose before us in great flocks. The Avatcrs of this lake empty into the Fraser, through a slough or small creek, at a point tAVO miles aboA^e St. Mary's Mission; and the distance from the mouth of the creek to the lake is about one mile. Between tbis point and the Mission, the country is hilly and lightly timbered Avith fir; the soil light and gravelly. Reaching the Mission avc proceeded back to the foot of the mountains, a distance of about five miles. The features of tbe country here are somcAvhat different from any met with on the south side of tbe river. The land is rolling, and stretches of open fern land occur very often. I mean by fern land, land over Avhich tbe fire has passed, destroying the timber and undergrowth, and upon Avhich fern has sprung up. Here,'also, is found the first Jioticeablc difference in tbe soil from that met Avith on tbe south side, Avbich is nearly all formed by alluvial deposits and decayed A'-egetable matter. The soil here is a sort of red clay, mixed Avith sand and gravel, and is formed, no doubt, by the decouiposition of rocks, and, to judge froni its lightness, Avould not long retain its strcjigth. Between this fern land and the river, and about one mile from the latter, is situated a 37 Vic. New Westminster District. belt of alder bottom three miles in extent, the surface of which is broken, and in places Avct and SAvampy. Along the base of the mountain, down as far as Stave Eiver, the country is heavily timbered with fir and cedar, and the soil gravelly. Following Stave Eiver up as far as the lake, we found very little in the shape of agricultural land. Some very tine timber (cedar and white-pine;, was met Avith round the foot of the lake, but the difficulties in the way of bringing to market, Avould, I think, be considerable, as the river is little else than rapids all the Avay. Stave Eiver empties into the Fraser about eight miles below the Mission. Between StaA'c Eiver and the Keatsy and Pitt MeadoAvs, the country in its general features much resembles that met Avith betAvccn Stave Eiver and the " Mission ;" it is nearly all timbered, with here and there open stretches of fern land,* soil light and gravelly. Crossing the Keatsy and Pitt MeadoAvs, Ave proceeded up Pitt Eiver and to the head of the lake, thence back, round the foot of the mountains, to Lillooct Eiver. No un- occupied high land fit for agricultural purposes was found in this neighbourhood, if I except a small stretch of timbered land situated near the mouth of Lillooet EiA'cr. Pitt Eiver MeadoAVS contain an area of nearly 20,000 acres, Avhich is subject to overflow from all sides. The whole plain is nearl}^ surrounded by AA^atcr so that dj^king is, in my opinion, out of the question. A great many stretches of cranberry marsh are met Avitl> through this country to Keatsy, and perhaps the most profitable purpose to Avhich these meadoAvs could be turned AA^ould bo for the cultivation of this fruit. Cran- berries are now considered an article of commerce, and, if I mistake not, the fact has been established, that the jDrofit accruing from their production is greater than from other branches of agriculture. A number of stretches of SAvamp land, which might be turned to account in this way, were met with on both sides of Fraser Eiver. Between Pit Eiver and Burrard Inlet no exploration Avas made. It Avill be seen from this Eeport, that the greater amount of agricultural land lies on the south side of the river, and that the jilaces most available for immediate settle- ment are in the vicinity of the Langley settlement, bctAA^een Langlej^ and Matsqui, in the neighbourhood of the latter place, and between ChilliAvhack and Cheam. It may be said that I travelled through the district at a time when parts of it ap- peared to best adA-antage. This I will not attempt to deny. But I also travelled through it Avhen other parts were vicAved under the most uufavourablc circumstances ; portions which, later in the season could have been travelled through AA'ith ease, Avcrc almost impassable from undergroAvth. But those considerations must all be kept in view in order to form a fair estimate of the country. It is fiir from the intention of this Eeport to mislead, or to raise expectations not justified by facts. Go Avhcro he may, in the most favourable parts of the District, the settler AA'ill find difficulties to contend, but none of such a nature as not to be overcome by industry and perseverance. There arc, hoAvover, to be found arriving in all noAv countries, immigrants possessing expectations of such a character that nothing short of a beautiful summer land of sun.shine and floAvors Avill satisfy their gloAving ideas. It is not to these, but to that class Avho are prepared to grajiplo with difficulties and trials common to all ncAV countries, that avo say come ; and no matter Avhere in the district they elect to build their home, one thing Ave can assure tlicm, they Avill meet Avith a people whose kindness and hospitality is only equalled by the genuine earnestness Avith Av^hich they Avelcome the stranger within their midst, and Avho will be found ever ready and willing to extend those little acts of help, Avhich the ncAv settler only knoAvs hoAv to appreciate. JOHN FANNIN. October 2^th, 1873. * It will be mulerstood iioie, thai I am speaking of the country lying between the maple ridges bor- dering on the river, and the base of the uiountaius, the ridges being nearly all occupied. REPORT OF EXPLORATION. EAST COAST OF VANCOUVER ISLAND. To the Honorable the Chief Commissioner of Lands and Works^ British Columbia. Sir, — I have the honor to inform you that, in accordance with your instructions directing mc to proceed to Fort Kupcrt, and from that point explore Vancouver Island as far as Menzics Bay, with the view of ascertaining whether there was any laud silitable for settlement, and in what quantities, I have visited the following places, viz.: Sacquash, Malcolm Island, the Nimkish Eiver, Lakes Karmutzeen, Alootza, and Oh iick- btal, Beaver Cove, the Needgilgas or Xarmutzecu, the Coquish, the Beaver or Ows- huck, the Adams or Hillatti, and the Salmon or Kusam Elvers, from the upper waters of which I came through to Menzies Bay. I have already had the honor to report to you on the former of these explorations; but a recapitulation may, under the circumstances, be considered advisable. Sacquash. Between Fort Eupert and Clickseeway, there are extensive ranges of open, grass swamps, running parallel to the coast, from which they arc separated by a belt of timber, varying from one and a half to three-quarters of a mile in width, and consisting principally of cedar and hemlock, with some balsam lir: the underbrush is srenerally thick. "^ ^ It is not considered that this portion of the country is well adapted for settlement; for although cattle might find good feed during the spring and summer, and a coarse hay might be cut for winter consumption, a very heavy outlay would be required for drainage, before any of this land could be brought under cultivation. Malcolm Island. Malcolm Island cojitains about thirteen thousand aci'cs, and is not as rugged as most of the islands in this vicinity; there is no prairie land on it; the timber is open on the northern shore, and consists principally of spruce and hemlock; on the south side, the woods are not so open, and cedar and hemlock are the main products; the under- brush of sallal and berry bushes is, particularly in the interior, very thick,— in fact wo had frequently to cut our way. The soil is generally of a very fair quality; but water appears to be scarce. Nimkish Hirer. The Nimkish Eiver is a large stream of about two hundred feet in width, flowing outtof Lake Karmutzco]!, and falling into Broughton Straits, opposite Alert Bay. Although rapid, the canoe navigation of this river is, with the exception of one riffle, lar from bad. On the eastern bank, the ground does not rise in general for a consider- able distance from the river; on the western side, the rise is more abrupt, and the bank higher. Adjoinmg the stream, the underbrush is dense; but a short distance back the 12 Exploration Report. 1873 timber is open, and consists principally of heinlock and spruce, with occasional cedar and Cottonwood on the low points. There is no open land on this stream; and the soil is of inferior quality. A trail might be easily constructed along its eastern bank. Lake Kariwatzeen. Lake Karmutzccn is about fourteen miles long, with rocky and precipitous shores; which arc timbered with hemlock and spruce. There is a small flat near its foot, of good soil, but wooded and partially flooded at high water. Needgilgas or Karmutzeen Hirer. Into this lake, at its south-eastern extremity, the Needgilgas or Karmutzeen (falling water) River (and marked upon the chart as the Kla-anch, but not known among the Indians by any such name) falls. Ascending this river for about four miles and a half, the mountains narrow in, and form a series of small caflons for about three and a half miles; beyond this, the valley widens out again, and the banks are usually low, level, alluvial flats. The good land on this stream is estimated at about six thou- sand acres, most of which would not be expensive clearing. There is some fine Douglas pine in the valley, and the timber, which is generally large and open, consists of cedar, hemlock, alder, and spruce, with here and there a little maple. Unfortunately, the available land is cut up into detached blocks by the mountain spurs and gravel ridges which run down to the stream. These blocks are scattered on both sides of the river, from its mouth to the points to which I penetrated, a distance of thirty-three miles. The stream is a Avide and rapid one, and not easily navigable, as < the riffles are very numerous, and even occasionally dangerous. Lake Alootza. Between the mouth of the Karmutzeen Eiver and Lake Alootza the majority of the land, though good, is subject to floods, and consists in great part of beaver swamps. That portion marked on the chart as good, is timbered with alder and cotton wood; and is not estimated to exceed two hundred and fifty acres. Lake Oh-uck-sta,l. From Lake Alootza to Lakes Oh-uck-stal and Atlucka the ground is broken and rocky, and the West Coast Eaugc appears to begin in this neighbourhood. There is some fine Douglas pine on the dividing i-idges between these lakes, Beaver Cove. The Cokish River, a small, rapid stream of about sixty feet in breadth, debouches into Beaver Cove; about half a mile from its mouth it is joined by a small tributary — Tsoultou Creek. Ascending the Cokish for about tAvo miles, the mountains begin to narrow in, and from this point there is nothing but a series of canons, the rocky and precipitous sides of which off'cr considerable obstacles to travelling. Having, from a mountain side, obtained a view of an apparently endless succession of peaks, without the slightest indication Avhich Avould lead one to infer the existence of agricultural land beyond them, it was decided to retrace our steps and examine Tsoultou Creek, of which favorable Indian reports had been heard. This stream runs on the eastern side, and near the base of Mount Holdsworth; and I am hap^jy to say we were fortunate enough to discover a beautiful little valley, Avell watered, and containing about fifteen hundred acres. Here there is a chain of grass prairies, varying from two or three to fifteen acres; and divided from each other by chunps of. alder and patches of berry bushes. The whole of this valley might be easily cleared, while there is abundance of timber along its sides foj- all farming purposes. The soil is of first class quality. A trail has been blazed from the forks to the first prairie, after passing Avhich, intending settlers could easily find their way up the valley. Near the coast, the timber is small and open, and consists almost entirely of hemlock. A small stream falls into the northern bight of this harbour, and takes its rise in a lake to the westward. There is no indication of agricultural land in this vicinity. 37 Vic. East Coast of Vancouver Island. 18 Beaver Hirer, or Ows-huck. At the mouth of Beaver, or Ows-huck Eiver, there is a gravelly flat, heavily tim- bered, and valueless for cultivation. vVscending the river, the mountains speedily narrow in; nor is it probable that any land fit for agricultural purposes will be found on this stream. A mountain in the distance was recognized as one which had been seen from the Karmutzeen Eiver; and a monotonous succession of peaks to the southward indicated the hopelessness of seeking agricultural land in that direction. It should, however, be mentioned, that miners or prospecting parties desirous of exploring the interior, will find an easy trail by keeping the eastern bank of the river. Adayns River ^ or Hilatti. Adams Eiver is a large stream of about two hundred feet in width, rapid, with numerous drift piles and rifiles. At the mouth, there is an extensive flat of about eight thousand acres, of which, probably, four thousand arc suitable for settlement; the soil is very good; the timber, Avhich is open and easily cleared, consists principally of hem- lock and spruce; the underbrush of berry bushes is occasionally thick. Ascending the river, detached flats, of from one to two hundred acres, divided from each other by mountain spurs, are passed; most of these are of good alluvial soil, the timber being alder, hemlock and spruce generally open, but with many thick patchesof berry bushes. There is a trail, though but little travelled, which following a fork of this stream, crosses a low divide into the valley of Salmon Eiver. At the head waters of Adams Eiver there is a large wet meadow of about three hundred and fifty acres, in which a branch of Beaver Eiver also takes its rise. This as well as several other smaller ones, requires drainage, which might be easily accomplished by cutting a few beaver dams, though it is feared that from its elevation above the sea the snow would probably lie for a considerable time. The best road to this point would be-by way of Beaver Eiver. Salmon River or Kusam. Last, but not least on the list, Salmon Eiver claims attention. This is a large stream, the sources of which are believed to lie in the neighbourhood of Mount Washington and Alexandra Peak, while two considerable tributaries take their rise from Victoria Peak and Crown Mountain respectively, and add considerably to its volume in the lower portion of the river. The main stream itself is far from rapid, at all events at low water, and is easily navigable for canoes for some twenty miles from its mouth; the current, though strong, is not sufficiently so to render its ascent a matter of difficulty even to inexiJerienced canoemen, the riffles being unimportant and nowhere dangerous. It is believed that at moderate stages of the watei", light draught steamers would be able to ascend ten or twelve miles. The valley may be described as about twenty miles long, varying in width from one and a half to five miles. It is estimated to contain forty thousand acres of land, of which at least twenty-five thousand are eminently adapted for settlement. In these figures it has been my endeavour rather to under than over-estimate. The soil throughout from one mountain range to the other is of very superior quality. On the banks of the river there is usually a narrow belt of timber, cedar, hemlock, and a little red fir and spruce, beyond this one finds dry alder bottoms with the trees ten or fifteen feet apart, while grass sometimes and sometimes berry bushes represent the under- brusli; small fern prairies, of from five to ten acres, and clumps of hemlock and spruce are scattered throughout the whole valley, and with the exception that towards the mouth the soil is inclined to be rather more swampy than above, this is its character for twenty miles. In many places there is excellent feed to be found on the base of the mountains. Still higher up the river there is a considerable quantity of white pine, of fair size. The next consideration which presents itself is as to the modes of reaching this valley, of which there are two. One may be dismissed in a very few words, and is the only one at present available, viz : by canoe from Salmon Bay. The other is by trail from Menzies' Bay which presents the following advantages : — Firstly, — Menzies Bay is a good harbour, and lies to the southward of the Seymour Narrows ; Secondly, — That it is directly on the line of the projected railway; Thirdly, — That it is no great distance from the head of the proposed settlement; and Lastly, — That the country is favourable for trail making. 14 Exploration Jieport. b 1873 The only obstacle appears to be a large lake, wbicli extends from the Menzies Mountain many miles to the southward. Even this however, offers a convenient place for crossing, since two opposing points stretch far into the lake, and only leave a gap of some three hundred feet to bridge. Omitting a bridge at the lake, it is estimated that a good pack-trail could be constructed for a sum not exceeding ^1,800, viz. : say Twenty miles of trail, at 860 per mile $1,200 Bridging and corduroying, say 600 «1,800 I can lay claim to no new discoveries of minerals; the only chance I have seen of employing capital, is in the development of some extensive marble quarries, of which a small mountain range, through which the Needgilgas River has cut a canon, appears entirely to consist. I am indebted to Mr. Huson for the information in the first place; and, on a cursory examination, found that this ridge probably extends a distance of four or five miles, with a width of at least a mile. The marble is of good quality, and it is considered practicable to build a tramway from Beaver Cove to these quarries. To Mr. Hunt, of Fort Rupert, and Mr. Hupon, of Alert Bay, I am indebted for much valuable information and assistance, as well as for great personal kindness and hospitality. I enclose a sketch map of our explorations. I have the honour to be, Sir, Your most obedient Servant, EDWARD MOHUN, C. E. Victoria, British Cohmhia, 2dth Octoher, 1873. ^•c> jfSiasfcTlw is' ^. ^A REPORT OF EXPLORATION. CASSIAR DISTRICT. To the Honorable the Chief Co7nmissioner of Lands and Works, British Columbia. Sir,— Fi'oin Fort Wrangle to the mouth of the Stickecn Eivcr the distance is about live miles; from the mouth of the river to the Big Bend, diHtancc about eighteen miles; and the average course east. From the Big Bend to the Great Glacier seven miles- average course north by east. From the Great Glacier to the Hudson Bay Company's post, distance about thirty-eighty miles; average course north by east; portion of this part of the river is a great deal cut up hy sloughs, snaggy and shallow in the fall of the year. From the Hudson Bay Company's post to Salmon Creek, six miles; average course west; also a portion of this part of the river is cut up by sloughs, snaggy and shallow. From Salmon Creek to the Little Caiion, about seventeen miles; averas^e course north. From the Little Caiion to Klutchman's Canon, nine miles; average course north by east. From Klutchman's Canon to Clearwater River, about fourteen miles; average course north-cast by north. From Clearwater Eiver to Collins' Bar, eight miles; average course north by east. From Collins' Bar to Shakesvillc, about seven miles; the average course north-east by north. From Shakesvillc to Miller's Bar, about nine miles; average course north-east by north. Three and a half miles above Shakesvillc there is one riffle, not navigable for steamboats at low water; with high water it is good; and with middling stage can go through the slough, leaving the riffle to your rig-ht. From Miller's Bar to Telegraph Creek, foot of the Great Canon, distance nine miles; average course north north-east. The ice leaves the river from the 24th April to the 5th or ijth of May. From that time, suitable river steamers can run the river until the first or middle of October; some seasons they may run later, from Collins' Bar to the first North Fork. Vegetables and good potatoes are raised to good advantage. Fi'om the Little Canon up, the snow falls light, from two to four feet. From the canon down, snow lies after it has settled, Irom five to nineteen feet deep in places on the river bottoms. On the Upper Stickecn, the spring opens early; the snow disappears in the latter part of March or the first of April. The weather, from the 1st May, and through the summer months, is at times excessively warm. When my sons and I arrived at the foot of the Great Canon, on the 22nd May, 1873, where we expected to get an Indian for a guide; after a day or two's delay, we started without a guide. As there were no Indians on the Stickecn at that time of the year we could gather very little information about the trail. The trail follows the Stickecn River for about twenty-five miles, along a bench country, cut up by numerous deep gulches, including the first and second North Forks. At the second North Fork, wc were detained two days and a half building a bridge; then the country is tolerably level and dry for twenty miles; tlien travelling through swamps for twelve or fourteen miles further, we came to a mountain which we were obliged to climb; we travelled on these mountains for about fifteen miles, and found ourselves getting into a slate range, which we followed for ten miles or more. This ridge of mountains runs about north and south. The waters of these mountains, as you will perceive by the map, run into the second and third North Forks of the Stickecn River. Then coming to a largo valley, running north-east by north; followed this valley for twelve or fourteen miles. There is a large creek running through the centre of this valley, with numerous small creeks and gulches emptying into it. I have since proved that this creek is the head waters of Dease's Creek. Not knowing the exact locality of the lake, avc turned a little more to the eastward, and struck Dease's Lake about midway between Dease's Creek and the head of the lake, on the 13th June, Avith double packs to each man. A day or two before wo got to the lake, we crossed a creek which I prospected, and found a few fine "colours ;" cached our provisions; went up the lake, and started buck to the Stickecn 16 Exploration MepoH. 1873 through the valley; arrived at Miller's Bar on the 17th June. The first forty miles on the road to Dease's Lake, from Stickeen, the feed for animals is good and extensive; but the balance of the way the feed is not so good, and limited. Left Miller's Bar on the 20th for the lake, with double packs each. Anxious to to find out the best practical pack trail, I took the mountain trail, eastward of the third North Fork, which is the trail the Indians travel to Dease's Lake. To the Upper Stickeen, I found this part of the country much higher than what I anticipated ; and also numerous swamps and deep moss. Patches of snow laying along the trail in the first part of July. We arrived at the lake again on the 7th July. On the 8th, we started down the lake. On the afternoon of the 9th we arrived at the mouth of Thibert Creek. I went up a short distance and prospected a little; found a few fine colours, and came back to camp. Next morning I went up the creek again; found Mr. Thibert and his two partners, who were all the men who were on the creek ; prospected some that day, and returned to camp. Next morning we started to pack our provisions up the creek, which took us several days. On the 15th July, we located our claims on Thibert Creek, and got ready to work. On the 25th, I and my son went prospecting on a creek which we call Delure Creek ; it empties into Thibert Creek. I prospected there until the 30th ; found a little gold, but not in paying quantities. I ran a cut in one place ; found a little gold in the gravel, but none on the bed-rock, as the rock was smooth washed. In other places, I could not get to the bed-rock on account of water, as the creek was high. Thibert Creek has turned out very good, but there is a great drawback on this creek — that is frost — in some places on the shady side of the creek the ground is frozen right down to the bed-rock. The Eath Co., Collins Co., Eeynolds Co., Discovery Co., and the Waldron Co., are considered the best claims on Thibert Creek. These companies have made from two to four ounces a day to the hand; all working with rockers, except the Waldron Co., who had sluices. Not being well, and having a sore leg, I was unable to travel. On the 19th August, I sent my two eldest sons out prospecting. They arrived on Dease's Creek on the 20th, •and on the 24th, staked off the Discovery Claim, and came back to Thibert Creek on the 27th, with a prospect of twenty cents to the pan, having prospected the creek about three miles, and found paying prospects all the time. But this did not start the miners from Thibert Creek; they said it was only a few spots of fine gold; but according to what my sons told me of the creek, I was satisfied there were good diggings on this creek, and sent them over again on the 29th. On the 2nd September, I sent my youngest son and an Indian with packs of provisions; when they came back again, I started over, and found my sons running up a drain and washing the gravel with a rocker, which paid them five ounces a day; they had been rocking then two days. I also went up the creek and prospected. Being satisfied that the creek was rich and extensive, I returned to Thibert Creek, and informed the miners the creek was good. Nearly all of them went over to Dease's Creek and located ground. All found big prospects, that will pay from ten to one hundred dollars a day with sluices. On the 24th September, the weather turned cold, with a north-east wind, and continued so until the 29th; then it started to snow, with a north-east wind; all the miners leaving the creek. It continued cold,and snowing heavy, until the 1st October; we then packed up and left. Found Mr. Eath and brother at the mouth of the creek, and travelled out together; weather very cold, and blowing a heavy north wind, with snow. On the 3rd October, it moderated. By this time the snow was from twenty to thirty inches deep; the same day it commenced to rain. On the 7th, we arrived at Buck's Bar. Dease's Lake opens from the 15th to 25th May. Your's respectfully, WILLIAM MOOKE. Victoria^ British Columhia, 2Qth November, 1873. -NGELI I % p r '«ifp «*" STEKfAT&CASSlAR GOLD FIELD$ Cap 9 TF^JWO»JR'E ( NOV.? 1873 ^ A^-^Wft BumoHs, Kit.s.f. C) C 1875 OB^. Reports of exploration. ♦F 1087 A5 1873 UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILIT* D 000 357 820 ■\ >^ Unive So L